RV-Archive.digest.vol-np

October 11, 2002 - October 17, 2002



      > > nipple (that looks like a
      > > grease fitting) on my brake really a grease fitting,
      > > or is it used for
      > > bleeding the brakes?
      > > >
      > > >  ANY tips will be greatly appreciated.
      > > >
      > >
      > >
      > > -------------------------------------------
      > > Introducing NetZero Long Distance
      > > Unlimited Long Distance only $29.95/ month!
      > > Sign Up Today! www.netzerolongdistance.com
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      > >
      > >
      > > Contributions of
      > > any other form
      > >
      > > latest messages.
      > > other List members.
      > >
      > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription
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________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 11, 2002
From: Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: RV4-List: Bleeding Brakes
Steve, I'm curious - did you see the large number of responses to your questions on the RV-List to the brake bleeding question you posted on the RV4-List? Any message posted to one of the RV model specific list also gets posted to the main RV List. Any responses to the copy of the message that goes to the main RV List only go to the main RV List - they don't go back to the RV model specific list, so I would imagine that the person who asked the original question may never see the flurry of answers. Kevin Horton RV-8 (cowling, wing tip lights) Ottawa, Canada http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html > >Another question about RV brakes. I noticed Van's sells milspec fluid which >is red. The small amount of fluid that was left in my system was not red, >more of a light oil color. Should I get the red stuff? > >Thanks folks... > >Steve Mullins, Ph.D. >Associate Professor of Economics >Drury University >417.889.5609 (home) >417.873.7299 (office) >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Steve Mullins" <smullins(at)drury.edu> >To: >Subject: RV4-List: Bleeding Brakes > > >> --> RV4-List message posted by: "Steve Mullins" >> >> Hi everyone. >> >> After having a close encounter with a hangar on our airstrip, I suppose >it is time for me do deal with that soft left brake pedal. Unfortunately, I >know nothing about how to bleed brakes (except for the obvious need to >replace air with brake fluid.) >> >> Do I need any special tools to do this? Is the nipple (that looks like a >grease fitting) on my brake really a grease fitting, or is it used for >bleeding the brakes? >> >> ANY tips will be greatly appreciated. >> >> Thanks in advance! >> >> Steve Mullins, Ph.D. >> Associate Professor of Economics >> Drury University >> 417.889.5609 (home) > > 417.873.7299 (office) >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Special N-Number
Date: Oct 11, 2002
Takes about a week and a half. If your first choice shows up as available when you check it, it probably is. The system updates daily. Just keep checking your first choice every day. One day it will pop up as belonging to you and your letter will follow shortly. Jerry Calvert Edmond Ok RV6 N296JC(res) ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Taylor" <david(at)hom.net> Subject: RV-List: Special N-Number > > I have reserved a special N-Number online with the FAA registry. Does anyone know approximately how long it will take before the FAA notifies me? I'm really curious to find out if I got my first choice as it has a great significance to me. > > Thanks, > > -David Taylor > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Kitz" <JKITZ1(at)columbus.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV4-List: Bleeding Brakes
Date: Oct 11, 2002
Exactly the way I do mine and it works great. JOhn Kitz N721JK Ohio Subject: RV-List: Re: RV4-List: Bleeding Brakes > > Steve, I bleed my brakes by filling them fron the bottom at the calipers. > Just loosen the valve a turn or so and feed into the system from there. Now > you want to know how right? Well, get yourself an oilcan that you can pump > oil out with the trigger, next take a piece of neoprene hose that will fit on > the outlet of the oil can and secure it on the can with a clamp or tywrap. > Now place the hose on the valve ( you need to have a snug fit here) Remove > the resevoir cap.Now just pump the brake fluid in and have a buddy check > the brake resevoir to let you know when it is full.(usually when it > overflows) Then tighten the valve up and your system will be full. It will > pump through the cylinder and reach the fluid resevoir.Do each side. Thats > the way I have done it and it works just fine. Put a rag below the resevoir > to catch the spilled fluid. DON'T forget to take the rag out of the engine > compartment as it could cause problems. Hope this helps,Jim RV-4 # 111 > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Francis Malczynski" <ebbfmm(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Polished spinner question
Date: Oct 11, 2002
I mounted mine with stainless panhead screws with a nylon washer underneath. Used the nylon washers after being told that this could prevent cracking in the future. Looked at some spam mounted polished AL spinners and sure enough, they have thin nylon washers underneath each screw. It does look good. Fran Malczynski RV6 - N594EF (taxi testing) Olcott, NY -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of czechsix(at)juno.com Subject: RV-List: Polished spinner question Guys, Does anyone have one of the polished spinners that George Orndorff sells, and if so, how did you mount it? Panhead screws? Flush screws with Tinnermans? Countersunk or dimpled? On a related subject, how does the Sensenich metal spinner attachment work? Seems like if I dimple the spinner and bulkheads it would be difficult if not impossible to remove/install it.... Thanks, --Mark Navratil Cedar Rapids, Iowa RV-8A N2D not even close to mounting my spinner, but pondering the options nonetheless.... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Rudder Pedal Return Springs
Date: Oct 11, 2002
unless it is a very smooth day here I have to keep pressure on the pedals or my tail gets a waggin... -Bill www.vondane.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: Rudder Pedal Return Springs > > > > > >I have a question: Do RVs use rudder pedal return springs? > > The overhead rudder pedal versions do not. > > >I can't > >remember seeing any before, but I was asked the question by an EAA Tech > >Counselor recently and I had no good answer for him except that I didn't > >think so. If so, how do they attach and if not, how do the rudder pedals > >return to neutral > > Airflow over the rudder. > > >(can the pilot take his feet off of them during cruise to > >stretch without the airplane going "elsewhere?" > > Yes > > > Thanks in advance. > > > >Ken Brooks > > Larry Pardue > Carlsbad, NM > > RV-6 N441LP Flying > http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: rv6a tail tie down
Date: Oct 11, 2002
Not sure about the -6A, but I put mine forward one bulkhead on my -8A... http://www.vondane.com/tt&i/index.htm#reartiedown -Bill www.vondane.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "mark beck" <markabeck(at)hotmail.com> Subject: RV-List: rv6a tail tie down > > I am having trouble finding a suitable attachment point for the wd-627 tie > down ring on the 6a. Van's says that it goes on the aft side of the rear > bulkhead F-612 under the rudder hinge bracket. Two problems: there is not > enough clearance for the lower rudder cap and it puts the shank of the eye > squarely on the lower bolt for the vertical stabilizer. I can move the ring > to the left, or move the stab bolt to the left and drill for two new bolts > to the right of the original bolt hole in the stab and bulkhead for the tie > down weldment, but that still does not satisfy the clearance problem. Or I > could chop off the front of the rudder cap and rebuild it a little shorter. > Any suggestions? > > > Mark Beck > rv6a builder > Fort Wayne, IN ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GRENIER(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 11, 2002
Subject: Re: Rudder Pedal Return Springs
I have an RV-4 with an RV-8 tail. I have just started the test flights and have noticed the same tail wag if I take my feet of the ruder pedals as you mentioned. I have been thinking that the problem was with the balanced ruder or perhaps some small differences in the tip fairings. The problem gets worse -- needs more foot pressure -- in rough air. I have been thinking of springs but I have no idea how much pressure I would need, and where I would connect them given the small space available behind the rudder pedals in a -4. Other than this, the plane flies great. Any ideas or suggestions greatly appreciated. Ray Grenier ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 11, 2002
From: Earl Fortner <efortner(at)vnet.net>
Subject: Re:Bleeding Brakes
Ford or GM Fluid? Does it make a difference? Earl RV4 Cy Galley wrote: > > Dot 5 is silicone based and will not attack rubber. It does have a down > side. You can't paint any surface that the fluid touches. Dave Ronnenberg > uses automatic transmission fluid. Says it is better the 5606 as it doesn't > get sticky and is very cheap with a flash point higher than 5606. He also > bans all dot 5 from his shop for the painting and bonding problem. > > Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh > > Editor, EAA Safety Programs > cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org > > Always looking for articles for the Experimenter > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "John Kitz" <JKITZ1(at)columbus.rr.com> > To: > Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:Bleeding Brakes > > > > > I have read this for years on the list, but I filled my -4 with Dot 5 > > automotive brake fluid 7 years ago and it has worked perfect since. How > can > > anyone say it is not good to use? > > John Kitz > > N721JK > > Ohio > > 540 hours using Dot 5 > > > > > > > > Positively use ONLY aircraft red brake fluid !!!! > > > Automotive brake fluid is glycerine based and will really mess-up your > > brake > > > system. > > > If you aren't sure about how to go about it: pay an A&P to show you,and > do > > > the job. > > > Brakes are critical. > > > You didn't say which type aircraft,but most will be same procedure. > > > > > > > > > RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now > > > Charleston, Arkansas > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 11, 2002
From: Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Polished spinner question
How much heavier is the AL spinner over the fiberglass? -LB --- Francis Malczynski wrote: > > I mounted mine with stainless panhead screws with a nylon washer underneath. > Used the nylon washers after being told that this could prevent cracking in > the future. Looked at some spam mounted polished AL spinners and sure > enough, they have thin nylon washers underneath each screw. It does look > good. > > Fran Malczynski > RV6 - N594EF (taxi testing) > Olcott, NY > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of czechsix(at)juno.com > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Polished spinner question > > > Guys, > > Does anyone have one of the polished spinners that George Orndorff sells, > and if so, how did you mount it? Panhead screws? Flush screws with > Tinnermans? Countersunk or dimpled? > > On a related subject, how does the Sensenich metal spinner attachment work? > Seems like if I dimple the spinner and bulkheads it would be difficult if > not impossible to remove/install it.... > > Thanks, > > --Mark Navratil > Cedar Rapids, Iowa > RV-8A N2D not even close to mounting my spinner, but pondering the options > nonetheless.... > > > > > > > Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More http://faith.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Polished spinner question
Date: Oct 11, 2002
Send an e-mail to George or Becky. I have the spinner and I believe what they recommended (and what I used) was a stainless panhead screw with flat washers that don't stick too far outside the diameter of the head. They look great (as does the spinner). Rick Jory RV8A ----- Original Message ----- From: <czechsix(at)juno.com> Subject: RV-List: Polished spinner question > > Guys, > > Does anyone have one of the polished spinners that George Orndorff sells, and if so, how did you mount it? Panhead screws? Flush screws with Tinnermans? Countersunk or dimpled? > > On a related subject, how does the Sensenich metal spinner attachment work? Seems like if I dimple the spinner and bulkheads it would be difficult if not impossible to remove/install it.... > > Thanks, > > --Mark Navratil > Cedar Rapids, Iowa > RV-8A N2D not even close to mounting my spinner, but pondering the options nonetheless.... > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re:Bleeding Brakes
Date: Oct 11, 2002
All I know it was red ATF fluid that Dave used at the repair barn at the convention in Oshkosh. You might try this address to contact Dave vcruse(at)earthlink.net Cy Galley Editor, EAA Safety Programs cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org ----- Original Message ----- From: "Earl Fortner" <efortner(at)vnet.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:Bleeding Brakes > > Ford or GM Fluid? Does it make a difference? > Earl RV4 > > Cy Galley wrote: > > > > > Dot 5 is silicone based and will not attack rubber. It does have a down > > side. You can't paint any surface that the fluid touches. Dave Ronnenberg > > uses automatic transmission fluid. Says it is better the 5606 as it doesn't > > get sticky and is very cheap with a flash point higher than 5606. He also > > bans all dot 5 from his shop for the painting and bonding problem. > > > > Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh > > > > Editor, EAA Safety Programs > > cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org > > > > Always looking for articles for the Experimenter > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "John Kitz" <JKITZ1(at)columbus.rr.com> > > To: > > Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:Bleeding Brakes > > > > > > > > I have read this for years on the list, but I filled my -4 with Dot 5 > > > automotive brake fluid 7 years ago and it has worked perfect since. How > > can > > > anyone say it is not good to use? > > > John Kitz > > > N721JK > > > Ohio > > > 540 hours using Dot 5 > > > > > > > > > > > Positively use ONLY aircraft red brake fluid !!!! > > > > Automotive brake fluid is glycerine based and will really mess-up your > > > brake > > > > system. > > > > If you aren't sure about how to go about it: pay an A&P to show you,and > > do > > > > the job. > > > > Brakes are critical. > > > > You didn't say which type aircraft,but most will be same procedure. > > > > > > > > > > > > RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now > > > > Charleston, Arkansas > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Special N-Number
Date: Oct 11, 2002
On a similar subject, plan ahead for your request for the permanent registration. I'm sitting around awaiting my fed paperwork and can't schedule my DAR until I have this in hand! Rick Jory RV8A ----- Original Message ----- From: Jerry Calvert <rv6(at)cox.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: Special N-Number > > Takes about a week and a half. If your first choice shows up as available > when you check it, it probably is. The system updates daily. Just keep > checking your first choice every day. One day it will pop up as belonging > to you and your letter will follow shortly. > > Jerry Calvert > Edmond Ok > RV6 N296JC(res) > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "David Taylor" <david(at)hom.net> > To: > Subject: RV-List: Special N-Number > > > > > > I have reserved a special N-Number online with the FAA registry. Does > anyone know approximately how long it will take before the FAA notifies me? > I'm really curious to find out if I got my first choice as it has a great > significance to me. > > > > Thanks, > > > > -David Taylor > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________ Original-Encoded-Information-Types: IA5-Text
Date: Oct 11, 2002
From: Jim Truitt <Jim.Truitt(at)usdoj.gov>
Subject: RV-List Digest: 68 Msgs - 10/10/02 -Reply
I just ordered a new engine ( O-360 carb ) from Aero Sport Power on Tuesday of this week. The price is $19,990.00. They actually have lowered their price since June this year, sort of. The price was $20,800.00. Not included in the $19.990.00 price is the 40 amp alternator, which was included in the earlier price. Also extra is a $100.00 crating charge, a $75.00 U.S. Customs charge, and ,of course, shipping. (Aero Sport gets very cheap shipping prices through some shippers - less than $200.00 to Indianapolis) I spoke to a Sue Gregor, who is very nice and helpful. Delivery may be only 4-5 weeks. Jim Truitt RV8A QB (working) N627TT reserved ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 11, 2002
From: rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV4-List: Bleeding Brakes
Hi Jim; Hmmmm, could be. I remember adding something even less hydraulic and more "organic" than that one time in a pinch. Definitely had to purge the brakes when I got home though! The only funny part was watching this old dude passerby as we "relieved ourselves" of brake fluid into a coke bottle and poured it into the Scouts resevoir.... RR --- James Lawliss wrote: > --> RV4-List message posted by: "James Lawliss" > > > Hey, rob ray, I think I once was party to actually > adding auto tranny fluid > to a Citabria's brake line a few years back. Ever > hear of such a thing? > Jim > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "rob ray" <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> > To: > Subject: Re: RV4-List: Bleeding Brakes > > > > --> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray > > > > > Also make sure your master cyllinders weren't > > installed upside down, then the procedure below > will > > have to add: remove master cyllinders from pedals, > > invert and then apply listed procedure... > > > > RR > > --- flyseaplane wrote: > > > --> RV4-List message posted by: "flyseaplane" > > > > > > > > > Dr. Mullins, > > > > > > Any Mil Spec H-5606 aircraft hydraulic fluid > will be > > > fine. You can probably > > > get some from your friendly neighborhood A&P or > FBO. > > > > > > That thing that looks like a grease fitting is > the > > > bleeder screw. It should > > > be on the bottom of the caliper with the brake > line > > > on top. You will be > > > pumping fluid in from the bottom, pushing all > the > > > air bubbles out the top, > > > on up to the master cylinder and out the top of > the > > > master cylinder. > > > > > > Get yourself a large (at least 16 ounces) pump > type > > > oil can and fill it with > > > the H-5606. Loosen the bleeder screw on the > bottom > > > of the caliper with a > > > 1/4" wrench (you may need to use the box end to > get > > > it cracked loose) and > > > drain all the old fluid into a can or bowl. Pump > > > that side brake pedal a few > > > times to get all the fluid out. Wrap a bunch of > rags > > > around the master > > > cylinder to catch the over flow. Use a piece of > > > small hose to connect the > > > oil pump can to the bleeder screw. Have a buddy > > > watch the master cylinder to > > > holler once it is full. Start pumping the oil > can > > > quickly to get all the > > > bubbles moved up and out and when your friend > yells, > > > then stop pumping and > > > tighten the screw so the fluid doesn't run out. > > > > > > Some H-5606 has more red dye in it, some less. > It > > > doesn't matter. It all > > > turns brown after a while because the die > > > deteriorates. Make CERTAIN that > > > the brake fluid now in your cylinders is not > > > glycerin-based automotive DOT3 > > > brake fluid - that stuff will eat all your seals > and > > > O-rings. Then you will > > > need to rebuild all the parts in the brake > system. > > > H-5606 is petroleum based > > > oil and really isn't much more than light weight > > > motor oil. It is usually > > > very available locally. > > > > > > Good Luck, > > > Linc > > > > > > > > > After having a close encounter with a hangar on > our > > > airstrip, I suppose it > > > is time for me do deal with that soft left brake > > > pedal. Unfortunately, I > > > know nothing about how to bleed brakes (except > for > > > the obvious need to > > > replace air with brake fluid.) > > > > > > > > Do I need any special tools to do this? Is the > > > nipple (that looks like a > > > grease fitting) on my brake really a grease > fitting, > > > or is it used for > > > bleeding the brakes? > > > > > > > > ANY tips will be greatly appreciated. > > > > > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------------------- > > > Introducing NetZero Long Distance > > > Unlimited Long Distance only $29.95/ month! > > > Sign Up Today! www.netzerolongdistance.com > > > > > > > > > > > > Contributions of > > > any other form > > > > > > latest messages. > > > other List members. > > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription > > > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare > > > http://www.matronics.com/search > > > http://www.matronics.com/archives > > > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More > > http://faith.yahoo.com > > > > > > > > Contributions of > any other form > > latest messages. > other List members. > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare > http://www.matronics.com/search > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > > > > http://health.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 11, 2002
From: P M Condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org>
Subject: Dynon EFIS D-10 data
Ken, this is a good URL. But....If you went to www.dynondevelopment.com as the starting point, there is no hyperlink or way to navigate to the URL page you found from the entry page. (Unless my Netscape is lying to me......) Subject: RE: RV-List: Dynon EFIS D-10 data ?? From: "Ken Simmons" <ken(at)truckstop.com> How about this? http://www.dynondevelopment.com/docs/contact.html Ken ________________________________________________________________________________ Original-Encoded-Information-Types: IA5-Text
Date: Oct 11, 2002
From: Jim Truitt <Jim.Truitt(at)usdoj.gov>
Subject: Special N Number
I applied for and received my reserved N number earlier this year. I did it over the FAA web site. Seems like it took about 2 weeks to get the confirmation by snail mail. If I recall correctly, I paid the $10 by credit card. I noticed the charge on my card statement before I got the confirmation letter. This indicated that I got at least one of my choices, since they charged my card. Then I did an N number inquiry on their web site and found my first choice was reserved in my name. Or, just do the inquiry each day. ________________________________________________________________________________ Original-Encoded-Information-Types: IA5-Text
Date: Oct 11, 2002
From: Jim Truitt <Jim.Truitt(at)usdoj.gov>
Subject: RV-List Digest: Aircraft financing
I checked regular aircraft financing (April 2002) and wasn't real impressed with the rates, or with certain requirements (like borrow now for the kit, come back later for engine and instruments, renegotiate the loan, etc.) I borrowed the equity in my house at low interest rates (very low now) and against my retirement plan at less than 5%. The home loan interest is tax deductable, and I use the money only as I need it. You use the money by simply writing a check, and interest on the loan is only on what you have used - yet the whole amount is available. I don't own my house or retirement, but, by God, the plane is all mine! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dmedema(at)att.net
Subject: Dynon Update
Date: Oct 11, 2002
Just a note on our progress at Dynon: While progress has been slow, we have been making steady progress. We recently installed our first "alpha test" instrument and are working with some other local builders to get instruments in their planes. These installations are in addition to the work we are doing on our own test airplane. The response from our first alpha tester after flying the unit on several flights: "You're going to sell a ton of these!" We'll update our web site with some pictures in the near future. Current status: Attitude is working well; Airspeed is working very nicely; Altimeter is working and we have some improvements on the way; Turn rate and slip/skid are working but need further testing; Initial AOA testing has been very positive and exciting; Heading is still causing us problems due to problems with properly sensing the magnetic fields. Dealing with magnetic interference in the airplane has proven difficult. We want to have the correct heading for all reasonable flight maneuvers and this turns out be a thorny 3-D problem dealing with both sensor calibration and dealing with interference from the airframe; Many of the menu functions are implemented, but not all. It's really getting fun to show the unit to customers and show them the level of sophistication this instrument has built into it! Calibration of the sensors (other than magnetic!) is becoming routine. We cool each unit to below -20 degrees C and heat it up to +50 degrees C. We rotate the unit in all three axes at various temperatures and use the data to get the calibration tables that are stored in the unit. We are in the process of setting up our manufacturing facility to produce the EFIS-D10 in a controlled fashion with a high level of quality. While we are a young company, the past manufacturing experience of several of us working here will help us in this process. Regarding emails and web site updating: We try to answer all emails within a week. While this may result in a somewhat slow response to some, we are doing our best to stay focused on getting the EFIS-D10 finished. Web site updates fall into the same category -- we are working on an update that will reflect the current displays on the instrument. We hope to have this done within a week. Delivery schedule: We have found it pretty much impossible to schedule the development of this project. Whether this is due to poor planning capability on our part, or just the result of developing a very sophisticated instrument cannot be easily determined. We are hoping to be in production by December 1st. While this is a continued slip from past dates, we can only assure you that we are working hard and making progress. We ask for your continued patience. Please feel free to contact us at anytime -- we promise to get back to you. If you want more technical information than is available on our website, feel free to contact me directly at: doug(at)dynondevelopment.com. Thanks, Doug Medema Director of Engineering Dynon Development RV-6A N276DM reserved. Finishing up the panel! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 11, 2002
From: Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca>
Subject: Re: Dynon EFIS D-10 data
Actually you can, but it's not immediately obvious how. If you go to the website, at the bottom of the "Menu" is a little "-" visible? Mouse over it, and you'll see the cursor change to something that indicates there's a link there. It's just a Website glitch, i've notified the Dynon webmaster so he/she can get it fixed. -RB4 P M Condon wrote: > > > Ken, this is a good URL. But....If you went to www.dynondevelopment.com > as the starting point, there is no hyperlink or way to navigate to the > URL page you found from the entry page. (Unless my Netscape is lying to > me......) > > > Subject: RE: RV-List: Dynon EFIS D-10 data ?? > From: "Ken Simmons" <ken(at)truckstop.com> > > > How about this? > > http://www.dynondevelopment.com/docs/contact.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner(at)wans.net>
Subject: Re: Painting Checkerboards
Date: Oct 11, 2002
> > What's the easiest way to mask/paint a checkerboard pattern? > > -Don > RV8 NJ Dear Don, Go to a Sign Shop that spezializes in making Vinyl-Banners. Talk to them about a checkboard pattern on vinyl (either just as a template, or perhaps as the permanent contrast itself). A Pilot Buddy of mine owns "Ace Signs" and does just Vinyl, so I do know that this would work fast and efficiently (by applying all squares at once in proper relation to each other) Feel free to contact me Off-List for more details on the application. Thanks, Konrad ABQ-NM DO NOT ARCHIVE ________________________________________________________________________________
From: tchoug <tchoug(at)micron.com>
Subject: Dynon EFIS D-10 data
Date: Oct 11, 2002
Sure there is. There is a "Contact" link at the bottom of the dark blue sidebar menu. Todd -----Original Message----- From: P M Condon [mailto:pcondon(at)mitre.org] Subject: RE: RV-List: Dynon EFIS D-10 data Ken, this is a good URL. But....If you went to www.dynondevelopment.com as the starting point, there is no hyperlink or way to navigate to the URL page you found from the entry page. (Unless my Netscape is lying to me......) Subject: RE: RV-List: Dynon EFIS D-10 data ?? From: "Ken Simmons" <ken(at)truckstop.com> How about this? http://www.dynondevelopment.com/docs/contact.html Ken ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 11, 2002
Subject: Re: Special N-Number
In a message dated 10/10/2002 8:15:24 PM Pacific Daylight Time, david(at)hom.net writes: > I have reserved a special N-Number online with the FAA registry. Does anyone > know approximately how long it will take before the FAA notifies me? I'm > really curious to find out if I got my first choice as it has a great > significance to me. > > Thanks, > > -David Taylor > Call them they wil tell you ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 11, 2002
From: Bob Haan <bhaan(at)easystreet.com>
Subject: Email Address 4 John Ciolino
Looking for the email address for John B. Ciolino Bob RV6A almost http://easystreet.com/~bhaan/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 11, 2002
From: barry pote <barrypote(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Painting Checkerboards
Tim, I saw and talked to you at OSH. Your checker board is the best I have ever seen. Two things: 1. Can you elaborate on "application paper" that you mentioned? 2. Did you paint the tail white, then pull out every other square of a black back ground, then stick the remaining black checker board onto the white tail, then clear over that? Barry Pote RV9a finishing Go to a Graphics shop and have them cut horizontal and vertical lines in the > vinyl sheet, remove every other square. Apply some application paper and now > you have a big checker board sticker. Apply that to your rudder or what ever > and shoot some clear coat on it. this worked very well for me and looks great > > Good Luck > Tim Barnes > Meangreen RV-4. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 11, 2002
Subject: Re: New or Rebuilt?
From: czechsix(at)juno.com
JC, Theoretically if you buy a $5000 engine it would be a runout core which you would send in for overhaul, and the shop would charge you for the parts/labor cost which would probably come out to about $12K....so you'd still have $17 K in the engine, plus or minus a bit depending on options and where the overhaul is done. Probly easier just to get one from Bart at Aerosport if you can, and save the hassle of getting a core and shipping it to him. Only problem is that O-360 cores (good ones without prop strikes or other problems) are hard to find. I got a first-run O-360 from Air Salvage of Dallas. It had some rust as it had sat around unpreserved after being removed for overhaul, but most of it was light enough that it could be cleaned up (especially the crank which is worth about $4K and is by far the most expensive part of the engine, so make SURE it's serviceable if you go that route). I paid Air Salvage of Dallas a total of $6500 and that included all the accessories, plus they threw in a vacuum system, alternator, elec boost pump, and some other odds and ends. I sold most of it on eBay and sent the engine core to Bart. He swapped my solid crank out for a CS crank and rods with only 900 hours TTSN on them. And he put some jugs with 1400 TTSN on it. Carb has 75 hours TTSN. Used the same first-run case, put in new pistons and bearings, reman fuel pump, and dual crank-triggered Lightspeed ignitions. I don't remember exactly what the bill from Aerosport was...somewhere a little over $10K. I figured out that the grand total investment in my engine including core, less parts sold on eBay, plus Aerosport's bill and shipping is around $16,500. An equivalent engine straight from Bart including shipping to the midwest U.S. would be a little over $18K, so for all my trouble I saved around $1500. I feel I've got a great engine with low-time components at a good price (relatively speaking). However you could save yourself time and hassle in exchange for that $1500 savings if Bart can find a good core for you... Hope this helps. --Mark Navratil Cedar Rapids, Iowa RV-8A N2D canopy skirts (still) From: JCTV <jctv(at)yahoo.com> Subject: RV-List: New or Rebuilt? I'm in the early stages of my RV-7A and I am starting my search for an engine. I want to go with a Lycoming O-360 that is new or rebuilt to "new Limits". My question is this: Is there any advantage to buying a runout engine and having it overhauled? Vans new engines are $23000 and a good new limits overhaul is around $17000. So if I do the math, unless I can find an engine for $5000 or less, I should go new? Am I missing something? JC Emp.- RV-7A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 11, 2002
Subject: Re: Special N-Number
From: czechsix(at)juno.com
David, I tried to get N7R before I got N2D, and it took over a week to get a notice in the mail that I did not get it. However I was able to check the FAA registration database online and saw a day or two after I requested it that it had been assigned to someone else, so even though you'll be officially notified by snail mail you can probably tell pretty soon wether or not you were successful. Odds are you probably got it unless it was one of the "cancelled/not assigned" numbers that has to sit there for the two-year waiting period, during which others may have also noticed it and waited to try and get it. Such was the case with N7R....I put in for it online moments after midnight on the first day it became available, but some guy in England of all places apparently beat me to it. Not sure what he's going to do with it?? --Mark Navratil Cedar Rapids, Iowa RV-8A N2D finishing forever, but already registered... From: "David Taylor" <david(at)hom.net> Subject: RV-List: Special N-Number I have reserved a special N-Number online with the FAA registry. Does anyone know approximately how long it will take before the FAA notifies me? I'm really curious to find out if I got my first choice as it has a great significance to me. Thanks, -David Taylor ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 11, 2002
Subject: Re: Polished spinner question
From: czechsix(at)juno.com
Rick, I did ask George O. and he said they use SS panhead screws, but he hadn't tried dimpling and using flush screws and tinnerman washers, so he didn't know if it would work or not. I saw a picture on the web of a Sensenich polished spinner and as near as I could tell, it looked like it had flush screws/tinnerman washers. But I don't know if it was countersunk like the fiberglass spinners are or if it was dimpled. Doesn't anyone on this list have a Sensenich spinner??? --Mark Navratil Cedar Rapids, Iowa RV-8A N2D finishing.... ---------------------------------------------------- Send an e-mail to George or Becky. I have the spinner and I believe what they recommended (and what I used) was a stainless panhead screw with flat washers that don't stick too far outside the diameter of the head. They look great (as does the spinner). Rick Jory RV8A ----- Original Message ----- From: <czechsix(at)juno.com> To: Subject: Polished spinner question > > Guys, > > Does anyone have one of the polished spinners that George Orndorff sells, and if so, how did you mount it? Panhead screws? Flush screws with Tinnermans? Countersunk or dimpled? > > On a related subject, how does the Sensenich metal spinner attachment work? Seems like if I dimple the spinner and bulkheads it would be difficult if not impossible to remove/install it.... > > Thanks, > > --Mark Navratil > Cedar Rapids, Iowa > RV-8A N2D not even close to mounting my spinner, but pondering the options nonetheless.... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 11, 2002
Subject: Re: Polished spinner question
From: czechsix(at)juno.com
Larry, I don't know exactly how much since I haven't weighed them to compare, but a "hand-weight-check" between my AL spinner from Orndorff and my friend's Vans fiberglass spinner says that the Al spinner is definitely noticeably heavier, I'd guess at least half again as much as the fiberglass spinner. Normally I'm anal about weight savings but in my case I've gotta have a polished spinner cuz that's what the T-6A has. Besides, the more metal and the less fiberglass on my airplane, the better : ) Although I will have to polish it...guess ya can't have it all... --Mark Navratil Cedar Rapids, Iowa RV-8A N2D with T-6A paint scheme....sanding fiberglass and hating it How much heavier is the AL spinner over the fiberglass? -LB ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "flyseaplane" <flyseaplane(at)netzero.net>
Subject: RV4-List: Bleeding Brakes
Date: Oct 11, 2002
Hey Jim Lawless, Yes, you can use ATF in a pinch. It will work fine, but it is thinner than H-5606 so it will leak easier if you have a weak O-ring, or a sloppy master cylinder won't pump as hard, but those are WORST CASE scenarios. It shouldn't hurt a thing. > to a Citabria's brake line a few years back. Ever hear of such a thing? > Jim ------------------------------------------- Introducing NetZero Long Distance Unlimited Long Distance only $29.95/ month! Sign Up Today! www.netzerolongdistance.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dmedema(at)att.net
Subject: Windscreen defrost
Date: Oct 11, 2002
I enjoyed the recent thread on parking brakes and would like to see a similar one on canopy defrosters. If you have defrosting, do you use it? How often? Would you do it again? If you don't have one, do you wish you did? A lot, or just once and a great while? Thanks, Doug Medema RV-6A N276DM (reserved). Finishing panel. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
Subject: Windscreen defrost
Date: Oct 11, 2002
posted by: dmedema(at)att.net > > I enjoyed the recent thread on parking brakes and would > like to see a similar one on canopy defrosters. > > If you have defrosting, do you use it? How often? > Would you do it again? I have two little muffin fans directed up through the glareshield onto the windscreen on my slider 6A, and I've used them quite a few times. Never needed them in flight, but often after startup in the winter to see during taxi. Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN RV6-A N66AP 215 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RW" <chiefs(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Re: Painting Checkerboards
Date: Oct 11, 2002
Don, Your local sign shop ought to have masking (paper), or at least be able to direct you to some. My plan is to cover the base color with masking paper, mark the checks on the paper and cut out checks for the second color then paint the second color and peel off the masking paper. Dick White RV-8 N94DW Old Crow Newport, OR ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
,
Subject: fuselage skin question
Date: Oct 11, 2002
RV-7 tailwheel tip-up I'm about to rivet the side skins onto the aft fuselage, and there's a noticeable gap between the bottom edges of the side skins and the bottom skin. More than a fingernail's worth. I figure I can easily take the side skins off and edge roll 'em a little bit, but I wanted to see if others have had to do this or not. It sure doesn't look like the side skin edge will lay flat against the bottom skin, even once riveted. Of course just the other day I told somebody about the aileron skins and this same situation...that the skin lays flat as you rivet it. But I wanted to double check since it's sort of now or never (or else I'll have to drill out rivets). Any tips or perspective here is appreciated. Thanks in advance, )_( Dan RV-7 N714D (fuselage) http://www.rvproject.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca>
Subject: Rudder Pedal Return Springs
Date: Oct 11, 2002
I can remember reading about someone with this problem and it was cured by squeezing down the trialing edge of the rudder. The same way you do to correct a heavy wing, very gently and progressively until the problem gets better. If the radius of the bend is a bit large, it seems to cause the tail wag. Joe Hine C-FYTQ -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of GRENIER(at)aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Rudder Pedal Return Springs I have an RV-4 with an RV-8 tail. I have just started the test flights and have noticed the same tail wag if I take my feet of the ruder pedals as you mentioned. I have been thinking that the problem was with the balanced ruder or perhaps some small differences in the tip fairings. The problem gets worse -- needs more foot pressure -- in rough air. I have been thinking of springs but I have no idea how much pressure I would need, and where I would connect them given the small space available behind the rudder pedals in a -4. Other than this, the plane flies great. Any ideas or suggestions greatly appreciated. Ray Grenier ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
,
Subject: Re: fuselage skin question
Date: Oct 11, 2002
Nevermind...just took the skins off and clecoed them from the BOTTOM UP and they sat nice and flat. Prior, I had clecoed them down the bulkhead sides to the bottom (just because it was easier to do it that way). Simple mistake. )_( Dan ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> ; Subject: RV-List: fuselage skin question > > RV-7 tailwheel tip-up > > I'm about to rivet the side skins onto the aft fuselage, and there's a > noticeable gap between the bottom edges of the side skins and the bottom > skin. More than a fingernail's worth. I figure I can easily take the side > skins off and edge roll 'em a little bit, but I wanted to see if others have > had to do this or not. It sure doesn't look like the side skin edge will > lay flat against the bottom skin, even once riveted. > > Of course just the other day I told somebody about the aileron skins and > this same situation...that the skin lays flat as you rivet it. But I wanted > to double check since it's sort of now or never (or else I'll have to drill > out rivets). > > Any tips or perspective here is appreciated. > > Thanks in advance, > )_( Dan > RV-7 N714D (fuselage) > http://www.rvproject.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 11, 2002
From: Jerry Heron <jerry(at)rchco.com>
Subject: RV Fuel Tank Leaks
MY rv 6, has been flying about 450 hrs since complete. I was not the builder. Last three years its been weeping fuel, at first not enough to measure, but now about a gallon every 7 days from one tank. The other tank is ok. Its more a cosmetic problem than unsafe; and I can leave that tank empty except when going cross country... but that's not a fix. Has anybody on the list had experience with someone who is familiar with the RV, and could be hired to do a fix? I'm located near Seattle, but the tank could be removed and shipped. Thanks in advance Jerry Heron N277W ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Subject: Las Cruces
Date: Oct 11, 2002
to DENVER & ALBUQUERQUE area pilots who are planning on going to Las Cruces on the 26th We have 3 RVs from Granby, CO leaving early Saturday morning. We're hoping to meet up with folks along the way for a mass fly-in into Cruces. Thinking of a Colorado join-up around 8:30 am, possibly in Alamosa and then a New Mexico join-up around 9:30, perhaps in Belen. I remember a great little pilot's cafe on the Belen airport. Is it still there? Actually, all plans are wide open. Just looking for a fun weekend. Write back if you think you want to join up for the ride. Andy ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 11, 2002
From: John Ciolino <jbc2000(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Email Address 4 John Ciolino
Bob, It is jbc2000(at)earthlink.net JBC > >Looking for the email address for John B. Ciolino > > >Bob >RV6A almost >http://easystreet.com/~bhaan/ > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jerry2DT(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 11, 2002
Subject: Re: rv6a tail tie down
Mark... I think all us -6a builders have dealt with the same problem. I just went through it a month ago. I trimmed the flange sticking out past the bolt clear down to the level of the welded bolt and was able to get clearance for the entire bottom rudder fairing without chopping it up at all. But make sure your fittings are screwed into the rudder within spec. I removed the lower VS bolt, centered the eyebolt and drilled to holes for it. This gives 4 bolts instead of 3 holding the VS in place and was okayed by Gus at Van's. Too bad the manual didn't point this out... Oh well... Hope this helps.. Jerry Cochran -6a finish kit In a message dated 10/10/02 11:55:18 PM, rv6-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes: << From: "mark beck" <markabeck(at)hotmail.com> Subject: RV6-List: rv6a tail tie down --> RV6-List message posted by: "mark beck" I am having trouble finding a suitable attachment point for the wd-627 tie down ring on the 6a. Van's says that it goes on the aft side of the rear bulkhead F-612 under the rudder hinge bracket. Two problems: there is not enough clearance for the lower rudder cap and it puts the shank of the eye squarely on the lower bolt for the vertical stabilizer. I can move the ring to the left, or move the stab bolt to the left and drill for two new bolts to the right of the original bolt hole in the stab and bulkhead for the tie down weldment, but that still does not satisfy the clearance problem. Or I could chop off the front of the rudder cap and rebuild it a little shorter. Any suggestions? >> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Taylor" <david(at)hom.net>
Subject: Special N-Number
Date: Oct 11, 2002
Thanks for all the great responses. I'll check the website often for my N-Number :) -David ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net>
Subject: Skytech starter
Date: Oct 11, 2002
Can someone using the Skytech starter on a Lycoming tell me the size of the stud where the large battery wire connects? Thanks, Gary ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 11, 2002
From: Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List Digest: 68 Msgs - 10/10/02 -Reply
Jim Truitt wrote: > > I just ordered a new engine ( O-360 carb ) from Aero Sport Power on > Tuesday of this week. The price is $19,990.00. They actually have > lowered their price since June this year, sort of. The price was > $20,800.00. Not included in the $19.990.00 price is the 40 amp > alternator, which was included in the earlier price. Also extra is a > $100.00 crating charge, a $75.00 U.S. Customs charge, and ,of course, > shipping. (Aero Sport gets very cheap shipping prices through some > shippers - less than $200.00 to Indianapolis) > I spoke to a Sue Gregor, who is very nice and helpful. Delivery may be > only 4-5 weeks. > > Jim Truitt > RV8A QB (working) > N627TT reserved Not ready to buy my engine yet, but this sound like the one to go with. Will the Vans Firewall forward kit finish off this engine on the plane? -- Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/ RV7A Working on the wings :-) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom Barnes" <skytop(at)megsinet.net>
Subject: Van's windshield antennae
Date: Oct 11, 2002
Van's specs for the windshield antennae is approximately 23 inches. On my slider RV-6, the center roll bar support is only 18 inches long. Can someone please explain how to route the ribbon so as to not have a dangling end? Thanks, Tom Barnes -6 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 12, 2002
Subject: Re: Windscreen defrost
In a message dated 10/11/2002 12:58:35 PM Pacific Daylight Time, dmedema(at)att.net writes: > I enjoyed the recent thread on parking brakes and would > like to see a similar one on canopy defrosters. > > If you have defrosting, do you use it? How often? > Would you do it again? No, can't and yes, but then I live in California. I've flown in rain but it's usually warm (relatively) here when it rains. I've flown in air down as cold as -10deg C, but it was dry. > If you don't have one, do you wish you did? A lot, > or just once and a great while? Maybe, sometimes quite a great deal other times not at all and ... can you repeat the question? -GV (RV-6A N1GV 572hrs) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 12, 2002
Subject: Re: Skytech starter
In a message dated 10/11/2002 7:58:27 PM Pacific Daylight Time, rv9er(at)3rivers.net writes: > Can someone using the Skytech starter on a Lycoming tell me the size of the > stud where the large battery wire connects? > 7.9375159mm -GV (RV-6A N1GV 572hrs) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeff Point" <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Where's the World Wide Wing?
Date: Oct 12, 2002
Anybody know what happened to the World Wide Wing? It was just there yesterday, now I just get a 404 page not found error. Server problems? Doug? Jeff Point Milwaukee WI RV-6 finish kit ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Mullins" <smullins(at)drury.edu>
Subject: Re: RV4-List: Bleeding Brakes
Date: Oct 12, 2002
Thanks to everyone who provided tips about bleeding my brakes....this list is worth a million bucks!!! Steve Mullins, Ph.D. Associate Professor of Economics Drury University 417.889.5609 (home) 417.873.7299 (office) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 12, 2002
Subject: Re: O-ring Type
Chemical compatibility is taken from Parker Seals Reference Guide: Nitrile (Buna-n) O-rings are standard in brake systems designed for aircraft, have a max temp of 250 deg F and will withstand the following: MIL-H-5606 Hydraulic Fluid AutomaticTransmission Fluid Petroleum/Mineral Oils and greases Water Glycol Coolants Fuels Silicone Oils, DOT 5 Auto Brake Fluid Vegetable Oils LP Gas Viton (Fluorocarbon) O-rings have a max temp of 400 deg F and will withstand the following: MIL-H-5606 Hydraulic Fluid AutomaticTransmission Fluid Synthetic/Petroleum/Mineral Oils and greases Glycol Coolants Fuels Silicone Oils, DOT 5 Auto Brake Fluid Vegetable Oils LP Gas Oxygen Naphtha Malathion Aromatic Solvents Ethylene Propylene O-rings have a max temp of 275 deg F and will withstand the following: DOT 3, DOT 4 Auto Brake Fluids Hot Water Steam Alcohols Nitromethane Ketones -GV (RV-6A N1GV 572hrs) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net>
Subject: Re: Van's windshield antennae
Date: Oct 12, 2002
Actually, you don't want it on the support bar - if you put it on the windscreen you can get 23" from the bottom to the top. Ed Bundy > Van's specs for the windshield antennae is approximately 23 inches. On my slider RV-6, the center roll bar support is only 18 inches long. Can someone please explain how to route the ribbon so as to not have a dangling end? > > Thanks, > Tom Barnes -6 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV Fuel Tank Leaks
Date: Oct 12, 2002
Jerry: From where is the fuel weeping? If it's around a rivet, you can fix it yourself fairly easily. I assume the weeping rivet(s) are on the bottom of the tank. If so, do the following: Go to an auto parts store and buy Threadlocker Green for about $5.00. Empty the fuel tank (flying it empty is more fun, but you can also unscrew the quick drain and empty it into 5 gallon jerry-cans). Prepare a piece of modelling clay about 1"x1" by flattening it, then put a 1/4" deep cavity in the center (an AN5 bolt head makes a good tool for theis). Fill the cavity with Threadlocker Green and apply the modelling clay to the bottom skin so that the fluid filled cavity is directly over the offending rivet. Tape the whole mish-mash in place with duct tape and leave it for 24 hours (longer if the weather is cold). The Threadlocker Green penetrates all openings through which the fuel is leaking through capillary action. When it hardens the leak is stopped. Good luck. George Kilishek >From: Jerry Heron <jerry(at)rchco.com> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: RV Fuel Tank Leaks >Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 15:53:43 -0700 > > >MY rv 6, has been flying about 450 hrs since complete. I was not the >builder. Last three years its been weeping fuel, at first not enough to >measure, but now about a gallon every 7 days from one tank. The other >tank is ok. Its more a cosmetic problem than unsafe; and I can leave >that tank empty except when going cross country... but that's not a fix. > >Has anybody on the list had experience with someone who is familiar with >the RV, and could be hired to do a fix? >I'm located near Seattle, but the tank could be removed and shipped. >Thanks in advance >Jerry Heron >N277W > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 12, 2002
From: Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org>
Subject: Re: For Sale - Empennage Kit - RV-6
There's an RV-4 empennage and wing kit, nearly complete, for sale in Langley, BC, Canada for CDN$2,200 (about US$1500). It's missing the horizontal stab (lost along the way). Could this RV-6 tail be used in the construction of an RV-4? My -6 tail kit had a lot of 400-series part numbers in it. The two together would make a great deal for somebody. US$2,000 for the wings and tail of an RV-4 "quick build." Tedd McHenry Surrey, BC, Canada ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV4" <VansRV4GRVMJ(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: For Sale - Empennage Kit - RV-6
Date: Oct 12, 2002
Hi Tedd, the -4 and the -6 use a different mounting of the horizontal stabiliser. I don't think that the two are therefore compatible. marcel -4/g- rvmj ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 12, 2002
From: Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org>
Subject: Re: For Sale - Empennage Kit - RV-6
> the -4 and the -6 use a different mounting of the horizontal stabiliser. I > don't think that the two are therefore compatible. > > > marcel Right, the -4 fuselage is narrower at the mounting point, isn't it? Tedd ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BrownScottA(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 12, 2002
Subject: Empennage Electric Trim
Listers, I seem to remember that there was an electric trim retro-fit package that you could buy that was different from that sold with Vans Kits. It had the trim servo mounted in the aft fuselage and a cable running from there to the elevator trim tab. Does anyone know where to purchase this? Scott ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: Empennage Electric Trim
Date: Oct 12, 2002
Gretz Aero sells 'em: http://www.gretzaero.com )_( Dan RV-7 N714D (fuselage) http://www.rvproject.com ----- Original Message ----- From: <BrownScottA(at)aol.com> Subject: RV-List: Empennage Electric Trim > > Listers, > > I seem to remember that there was an electric trim retro-fit package that you > could buy that was different from that sold with Vans Kits. It had the trim > servo mounted in the aft fuselage and a cable running from there to the > elevator trim tab. Does anyone know where to purchase this? > > Scott > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner(at)wans.net>
Subject: Re: Empennage Electric Trim
Date: Oct 12, 2002
Scott, Try GRETZ AERO at www.gretzaero.com Konrad ----- Original Message ----- From: <BrownScottA(at)aol.com> Subject: RV-List: Empennage Electric Trim > > Listers, > > I seem to remember that there was an electric trim retro-fit package that you > could buy that was different from that sold with Vans Kits. It had the trim > servo mounted in the aft fuselage and a cable running from there to the > elevator trim tab. Does anyone know where to purchase this? > > Scott > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 12, 2002
From: Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: Empennage Electric Trim
> >Listers, > >I seem to remember that there was an electric trim retro-fit package that you >could buy that was different from that sold with Vans Kits. It had the trim >servo mounted in the aft fuselage and a cable running from there to the >elevator trim tab. Does anyone know where to purchase this? > >Scott > Gretz Aero. Contact info in the RV Yeller Pages. http://www.sound.net/%7Ehartmann/yelrpage.htm -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (cowling, wing tip lights) Ottawa, Canada http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo(at)verizon.net>
"Rocket List"
Subject: Insurance AGAIN
Date: Oct 12, 2002
Guys and Gals, Well, Avemco when off the deep end. Last year was 4488.00 and this year they want 5719.00. Their quote is: Bodily Injury and Property Damage for 100,00 each person; 1,000,000 property damgage; 1,000,000 each accident = 732.00 Aircraft damage In Flight for 110,000 value; deductible: 500 NOT IN MOTION; 2,000 IN MOTION = 4954.00 Medical expenses for 1,000 each person = 33.00 Pilots: Thomas L. Gummo - Com - IFR yes - Age 54 - TT 3500 - ME 3200 - RG 3200 - MM 80 - TW 150 Joseph P. Fitzgerald - ATP, ASMEL - IFR yes - Age 47 - TT 6130 - MM 7 - RG 2200 - TW 1600 Aircraft data: N561FS Harmon Rocket II, Engine IO-540 J4A5 80 Hours, Day VFR + (No strobes; but nav, taxi, and landing lights; electric Attitude and DG), not painted. Stored at APV, hangared yes. Guess it is time to look for another company. Tom Gummo PS. if I had 5700 dollars laying around, it would be painted :-) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 12, 2002
Subject: [ Gary Crowder ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Gary Crowder Subject: Tip-up canopy release mod http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/rv9er@3rivers.net.10.12.2002/index.html -------------------------------------------- o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE Share your files and photos with other List members simply by emailing the files to: pictures(at)matronics.com Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos. o Main Photo Share Index: http://www.matronics.com/photoshare -------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: RV6-N664SB FLIES--Finally!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Date: Oct 12, 2002
Hi All, Just a very quick update to let you know that another fledgling has "left the nest". N664SB was signed off this morning by DAR Dale Gauger (DAR for American Champion). First flight was PHENOMENAL! FYI...I know why people don't post too many details about their first flight, I'm too D#$mned excited right now to do anything but walk around with this stupid grin contorting my face. Here's a quick overview. First of all, about my field. It's about 40' wide x 1800' long carved into the middle of a corn field with trees at one end. Test pilot was me, chase plane was unfairly a friend in a Decathlon. I lined the plane up on the runway, pushed in the throttle, raised the tail, and by the time I had a chance to move my eyes from the runway to the airspeed indicator I was flying! Climbing out at 120 produced a 1500+/minute climb, and I busted right against the MSP Class B airspace (2300') before I could even think! On top of that the plane was accelerating like mad, when I started (quite drastically) to level out at 2250', I was already passing 140 on the speedo! Flew south to get out from under the B airspace and gain some altitude. Climbed to 4000', practiced some turns, small standard rate to begin with, but the plane soon forced me into some steeper turns. Setup for some stalls, and performed a regiment of stalls. No good details on stalls, but I can tell you the plane flies hands off with the ball perfectly centered. Stalls were abrupt, no buffet, but also NO wing drop. Just a quick break straight ahead. Goofed around some more and headed back to the airport for landing. Since my runway is somewhat "size limited", I didn't have the luxury of carrying a bucket load of extra speed. Flared with some power, and firmly planted myself back on earth. Touchdown to stop was WAYYYY less than half the runway! Not a perfect sqeaker, but then again I wasn't carrying any speed for floating. At this point I don't give a crap, it was perfect to the guy in the cockpit! Directional control is fine, and visibility is wonderful except in the flare. Anyway, I'm too excited to keep going. Got to go make some phone calls to brag! Keep up pounding those rivits, It's well worth it. WHAT AN AMAZING airplane! Cheers, Stein Bruch RV6, N664SB FLYING! (what a feeling to type that in this space). ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Paulbaird(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 12, 2002
Subject: cessna 300 navcom schematic
Listers, Does anyone know where I can get a schematic for an old cessna 300 navcom? Don't worry I am not putting it in my RV! thanks, Paul flying RV-9A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 12, 2002
Subject: [ Chuck and C. David Rowbotham ] : New Email List Photo Share
Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Chuck and C. David Rowbotham Subject: RV-8A Paint - Blue Angles - N712CR http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/David_Rowbotham@dom.com.10.12.2002/index.html -------------------------------------------- o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE Share your files and photos with other List members simply by emailing the files to: pictures(at)matronics.com Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos. o Main Photo Share Index: http://www.matronics.com/photoshare -------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 12, 2002
Subject: [ Kevin ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Kevin Subject: Sledge Powered Dimpler http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/rv8r300@attbi.com.10.12.2002/index.html -------------------------------------------- o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE Share your files and photos with other List members simply by emailing the files to: pictures(at)matronics.com Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos. o Main Photo Share Index: http://www.matronics.com/photoshare -------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Curt Hoffman" <choffman9(at)cinci.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV6-N664SB FLIES--Finally!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Date: Oct 12, 2002
Congratulations. Sounds like a great experience wonderful first flight. Another 10 - 20 years I'll join you. Curt Hoffman RV-9A wings 1968 Mustang 302 convertible Piper Cherokee N5320W ----- Original Message ----- From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> Subject: RV-List: RV6-N664SB FLIES--Finally!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! > > Hi All, > > Just a very quick update to let you know that another fledgling has "left > the nest". > > N664SB was signed off this morning by DAR Dale Gauger (DAR for American > Champion). > > First flight was PHENOMENAL! FYI...I know why people don't post too many > details about their first flight, I'm too D#$mned excited right now to do > anything but walk around with this stupid grin contorting my face. Here's a > quick overview. > > First of all, about my field. It's about 40' wide x 1800' long carved into > the middle of a corn field with trees at one end. > > Test pilot was me, chase plane was unfairly a friend in a Decathlon. I > lined the plane up on the runway, pushed in the throttle, raised the tail, > and by the time I had a chance to move my eyes from the runway to the > airspeed indicator I was flying! Climbing out at 120 produced a > 1500+/minute climb, and I busted right against the MSP Class B airspace > (2300') before I could even think! On top of that the plane was > accelerating like mad, when I started (quite drastically) to level out at > 2250', I was already passing 140 on the speedo! > > Flew south to get out from under the B airspace and gain some altitude. > Climbed to 4000', practiced some turns, small standard rate to begin with, > but the plane soon forced me into some steeper turns. Setup for some > stalls, and performed a regiment of stalls. No good details on stalls, but > I can tell you the plane flies hands off with the ball perfectly centered. > Stalls were abrupt, no buffet, but also NO wing drop. Just a quick break > straight ahead. > > Goofed around some more and headed back to the airport for landing. Since > my runway is somewhat "size limited", I didn't have the luxury of carrying a > bucket load of extra speed. > > Flared with some power, and firmly planted myself back on earth. Touchdown > to stop was WAYYYY less than half the runway! Not a perfect sqeaker, but > then again I wasn't carrying any speed for floating. At this point I don't > give a crap, it was perfect to the guy in the cockpit! Directional control > is fine, and visibility is wonderful except in the flare. > > Anyway, I'm too excited to keep going. Got to go make some phone calls to > brag! > > Keep up pounding those rivits, It's well worth it. WHAT AN AMAZING airplane! > > Cheers, > Stein Bruch > RV6, N664SB > FLYING! (what a feeling to type that in this space). > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com>
Subject: Fw: RV6-List: RV6-N664SB FLIES--Finally!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Date: Oct 12, 2002
Stein, Here's the obvious... "CONGRATULATIONS" now go out & have ALL the FUN you want. Chuck ----- Original Message ----- From: Stein Bruch <stein(at)steinair.com> Subject: RV6-List: RV6-N664SB FLIES--Finally!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! > --> RV6-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" > > Hi All, > > Just a very quick update to let you know that another fledgling has "left > the nest". > > N664SB was signed off this morning by DAR Dale Gauger (DAR for American > Champion). > > First flight was PHENOMENAL! FYI...I know why people don't post too many > details about their first flight, I'm too D#$mned excited right now to do > anything but walk around with this stupid grin contorting my face. Here's a > quick overview. > > First of all, about my field. It's about 40' wide x 1800' long carved into > the middle of a corn field with trees at one end. > > Test pilot was me, chase plane was unfairly a friend in a Decathlon. I > lined the plane up on the runway, pushed in the throttle, raised the tail, > and by the time I had a chance to move my eyes from the runway to the > airspeed indicator I was flying! Climbing out at 120 produced a > 1500+/minute climb, and I busted right against the MSP Class B airspace > (2300') before I could even think! On top of that the plane was > accelerating like mad, when I started (quite drastically) to level out at > 2250', I was already passing 140 on the speedo! > > Flew south to get out from under the B airspace and gain some altitude. > Climbed to 4000', practiced some turns, small standard rate to begin with, > but the plane soon forced me into some steeper turns. Setup for some > stalls, and performed a regiment of stalls. No good details on stalls, but > I can tell you the plane flies hands off with the ball perfectly centered. > Stalls were abrupt, no buffet, but also NO wing drop. Just a quick break > straight ahead. > > Goofed around some more and headed back to the airport for landing. Since > my runway is somewhat "size limited", I didn't have the luxury of carrying a > bucket load of extra speed. > > Flared with some power, and firmly planted myself back on earth. Touchdown > to stop was WAYYYY less than half the runway! Not a perfect sqeaker, but > then again I wasn't carrying any speed for floating. At this point I don't > give a crap, it was perfect to the guy in the cockpit! Directional control > is fine, and visibility is wonderful except in the flare. > > Anyway, I'm too excited to keep going. Got to go make some phone calls to > brag! > > Keep up pounding those rivits, It's well worth it. WHAT AN AMAZING airplane! > > Cheers, > Stein Bruch > RV6, N664SB > FLYING! (what a feeling to type that in this space). > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kenneth Beene" <kbeene(at)citilink.com>
Subject: RV6-N664SB FLIES--Finally!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Date: Oct 12, 2002
CONGRATULATIONS Stein. Stop by LVN soon. Larry Daudt also had the first flight of his F-1 Rocket today at LVN. Ken > > Just a very quick update to let you know that another > fledgling has "left the nest". > > > Stein Bruch > RV6, N664SB > FLYING! (what a feeling to type that in this space). > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Windscreen defrost
Date: Oct 12, 2002
Here in the NW we get plenty of fog-inducing conditions, and sometimes when taxiing out my canopy fogs up. Opening the canopy for maybe 5 seconds clears it out (though its usually also COLD out there!) So I suppose it would be nice but on the other hand its only useful for the taxi out and you can get rid of the fog quickly without a defroster. As others have said, its rarely if ever needed in flight. This thread, and the one about parking brakes, brings up an interesting point. There are TONS of things you can add to your plane to make it nicer/more conveinent/more comfortable etc. But each one adds weight, cost, and complexity. We all make choices about this and everyones plane is different -- thats what makes this whole thing so great! But its easy to get carried away with the frills, and end up with a heavy airplane that took a lot longer to build than if it were more spartan. I'm not advocating a "no-frills" airplane (lord knows I have my share of add-ons), but I think a good exercise might be to list all the extra junk you want to hang on to your plane, in order of how important each one is to you, and next to that list the weight of each, and the cost, and the extra time you think it will take to install (and multiply that figure by 3). Then decide where you want to make the "cut". Just adding up all the extra weight can really be an eye-opener, and might help you decide to make the cut a little higher than you might otherwise. Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~400 hrs) Portland, OR www.vanshomewing.org ----- Original Message ----- From: <dmedema(at)att.net> Subject: RV-List: Windscreen defrost > > I enjoyed the recent thread on parking brakes and would > like to see a similar one on canopy defrosters. > > If you have defrosting, do you use it? How often? > Would you do it again? > > If you don't have one, do you wish you did? A lot, > or just once and a great while? > > Thanks, > Doug Medema > RV-6A N276DM (reserved). Finishing panel. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Cooke" <pitot(at)norlight.org>
Subject: 402 Weldments
Date: Oct 12, 2002
It appears that I must trim about 1/4 inch from the skin side of the base plate of the 402 weldments in order to make the sides of the longerons close enough to the skin line to rivet the skin to the longerons and legs of the weldment. This is a very critical area since the engine mount bolts go through these plates. Is there anyone else who is having or who remembers having this problem? If so, how did it work out? Dave Cooke North Idaho Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 12, 2002
From: Charles Brame <charleyb(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Windscreen defrost
I plan to install a couple of small fans also. I'd be interested in hearing (or seeing) how you installed them. Did you install a grill? If so, where did you find it? Charlie Brame RV-6A N11CB San Antonio ------------------------------------------------------ From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> Subject: RE: RV-List: Windscreen defrost posted by: dmedema(at)att.net > > I enjoyed the recent thread on parking brakes and would > like to see a similar one on canopy defrosters. > > If you have defrosting, do you use it? How often? > Would you do it again? I have two little muffin fans directed up through the glareshield onto the windscreen on my slider 6A, and I've used them quite a few times. Never needed them in flight, but often after startup in the winter to see during taxi. Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN RV6-A N66AP 215 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com>
Subject: Model A Steps, Again
Date: Oct 12, 2002
I always said that when I got old and bald I would put steps on my RV6A. Well, I reached both landmarks and am now considering the steps. Can anyone comment on the difficulty of installing them on a completed 6A? I read all the postings in the archives and wonder if the problems folks ran into are magnified on a finished plane. Thanks for any voices of experience. John at Salida, CO ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com>
Subject: Fw: RV8-List: [ Chuck and C. David Rowbotham ] : New Email List
Photo Share Available!
Date: Oct 12, 2002
Chuck is that you or C. David standing next to that beautifully painted Angel? Man I don't believe that guy can't smile any better than that while standing next to such a gorgeous bird. ... you don't think he's still bummed out that he accidentally put his tail wheel up front... mistakes happen, just get over it and ENJOY that pretty plane. Chuck ----- Original Message ----- From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> Subject: RV8-List: [ Chuck and C. David Rowbotham ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! > --> RV8-List message posted by: Email List Photo Shares > > > A new Email List Photo Share is available: > > Poster: Chuck and C. David Rowbotham > > > Subject: RV-8A Paint - Blue Angles - N712CR > > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/David_Rowbotham@dom.com.10.12.2002/index .html > > > -------------------------------------------- > > o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE > > Share your files and photos with other List members simply by > emailing the files to: > > pictures(at)matronics.com > > Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text > Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos. > > o Main Photo Share Index: > > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare > > -------------------------------------------- > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net>
Subject: RV list special N-number
Date: Oct 12, 2002
David, I reserved my N-number via the web, and recieved my response from the FAA within a couple of weeks as I recall. You could probably find out sooner by calling them. If you do it on the web, using the link http://162.58.35.241/acdatabase/acmain.htm it will tell you if any given number is assigned. If you pick one that is not assigned, you stand a good chance of getting it, unless someone else just picked it at the same time. If you tried to reserve it recently, just keep checking back to that page and see if it shows up as assigned to you. Somewhere on the list or one of the RV web sites, there was a nifty little search engine someone had written. I allowed you to type in a desired N-number, and it immediately told you whether it was assigned. Anyone remember this or know how to access it? Gary From: "David Taylor" <david(at)hom.net> Subject: RV-List: Special N-Number I have reserved a special N-Number online with the FAA registry. Does anyone know approximately how long it will take before the FAA notifies me? I'm really curious to find out if I got my first choice as it has a great significance to me. Thanks, -David Taylor ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net>
Subject: Bleeding Brakes
Date: Oct 12, 2002
I can say it is not good to use. However, I cannot say specifically what kind. I bought a homebuilt that someone had put automotive brake fluid in, and it started leaking. I cured it by cleaning the system and installing aircraft brake fluid. It took several years to begin leaking in this case. It has been good for many years since. If you have good results after 7 years, then I see no need to fix it. At least it doesn't seem to be a case where there will be any sudden failure of the brake system. If it gets to leaking and making a mess, you might try the red stuff. Gary From: "John Kitz" <JKITZ1(at)columbus.rr.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:Bleeding Brakes I have read this for years on the list, but I filled my -4 with Dot 5 automotive brake fluid 7 years ago and it has worked perfect since. How can anyone say it is not good to use? John Kitz N721JK Ohio 540 hours using Dot 5 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HalBenjamin(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 12, 2002
Subject: Re: 402 Weldments
In a message dated 10/12/02 9:38:41 PM Eastern Daylight Time, pitot(at)norlight.org writes: > It appears that I must trim about 1/4 inch from the skin side of the base > plate of the 402 weldments in order to make the sides of the longerons > close enough to the skin line to rivet the skin to the longerons and legs > of the weldment. This is a very critical area since the engine mount bolts > go through these plates. Is there anyone else who is having or who > remembers having this problem? If so, how did it work out? > > Dave, I trimmed about 3/16" off the edges of my 402 weldments to move them far enough outboard to get a good skin line on the longerons. Tom at Van's said this is common. In addition, you may find that the angle of the longerons doesn't match the angle of the weldment legs exactly. Tom at Van's said it's okay to put a shim between the longerons and the weldment legs, as long as the shim isn't more that 1/16" thick. If you make the shim too thick, edge distance can become an issue. Hope this helps. Hal Benjamin RV-4 Fuselage on jig Long Island, NY ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Las Cruces
Date: Oct 13, 2002
> > > >to DENVER & ALBUQUERQUE area pilots who are planning on going to Las Cruces >on the 26th > >We have 3 RVs from Granby, CO leaving early Saturday morning. We're hoping >to meet up with folks along the way for a mass fly-in into Cruces. > >Thinking of a Colorado join-up around 8:30 am, possibly in Alamosa and then >a New Mexico join-up around 9:30, perhaps in Belen. I remember a great >little pilot's cafe on the Belen airport. Is it still there? > >Actually, all plans are wide open. Just looking for a fun weekend. > >Write back if you think you want to join up for the ride. > >Andy > Andy, The cafe is still there, and has gone through some remodeling. I haven't been there since this work was done, but am pretty sure it's up and running. I'll be flying down on Friday, so won't be available for a join up on Saturday. Bummer. I think I'm the only RV-lister from Albuquerque with a flying RV, so I reckon you've reached your market in this area! I'll pass on the info to anyone I see around here in the next week who may be planning to fly down on Saturday. Norm Schippers (RV6) and Larry Miller (RV4) might be flying down at that time. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD 307 hrs. First RV8 driver in the state of Nuevo Mexico. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com>
Subject: Dual Rudder pedals alignment on -6
Date: Oct 12, 2002
Has anyone else had a problem with getting both sets of rudder pedals on a -6 or -7 to line up with each other? http://bmnellis.com/images/Fuselage/pedals-seatribs/DCP02600.JPG Take a look at the above link and you'll see what I'm talking about. I put a straight edge along two pedals on one side then took a look at the other pedals and I can see about 1/4" mis-alignment between the other two pedals. I don't know how to get rid of this offset other than to just "split the difference" later when I'm rigging everything up. Mike Nellis http://bmnellis.com RV6 - Fuselage N699BM 1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 12, 2002
From: kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV4-List: Bleeding Brakes
> >Thanks to everyone who provided tips about bleeding my brakes....this list >is worth a million bucks!!! Pay to the CONTRIBUTIONS web site listed below, Doc. hal >Steve Mullins, Ph.D. >Associate Professor of Economics >Drury University >417.889.5609 (home) >417.873.7299 (office) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV6-List: Dual Rudder pedals alignment on -6
Date: Oct 13, 2002
Mike, The fuse is so much fun! Try swapping the rudder bars and see if that makes any difference. Put the one that is now in front, in the rear. The brake pedals will be hard to line up too. Do not drill the hole yet where the bottom of the brake cylinder attaches to the pedal. Get the brake pedals lined up and then drill the lower hole. Jerry Calvert Edmond Ok RV6 N296JC(res) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com> Subject: RV6-List: Dual Rudder pedals alignment on -6 > --> RV6-List message posted by: "Mike Nellis" > > Has anyone else had a problem with getting both sets of rudder pedals on > a -6 or -7 to line up with each other? > > http://bmnellis.com/images/Fuselage/pedals-seatribs/DCP02600.JPG > > Take a look at the above link and you'll see what I'm talking about. I > put a straight edge along two pedals on one side then took a look at the > other pedals and I can see about 1/4" mis-alignment between the other > two pedals. I don't know how to get rid of this offset other than to > just "split the difference" later when I'm rigging everything up. > > Mike Nellis > http://bmnellis.com > RV6 - Fuselage N699BM > 1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Bleeding Brakes
Date: Oct 13, 2002
OR..... Open the top of the brake fluid reservoir, open the fitting in the bottom of the brake caliper, and pump brake fluid into that fitting until all of the air is out of the system and fluid is running out the top of the reservoir. This way, it can be a one person operation. This, by the way, is the correct way to install fluid into the brake system for the first time, during construction. George Kilishek. Paul Besing says, correctly, "....... >Repeat steps 1-4 on each brake, a few times, until solid pressure is felt >equally on both pedals." >> >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Steve Mullins" <smullins(at)drury.edu> >To: >Subject: RV-List: Bleeding Brakes > > > > > > Hi everyone. > > > > After having a close encounter with a hangar on our airstrip, I suppose >it is time for me do deal with that soft left brake pedal. Unfortunately, I >know nothing about how to bleed brakes (except for the obvious need to >replace air with brake fluid.) > > > > Do I need any special tools to do this? Is the nipple (that looks like a >grease fitting) on my brake really a grease fitting, or is it used for >bleeding the brakes? > > > > ANY tips will be greatly appreciated. > > > > Thanks in advance! > > > > Steve Mullins, Ph.D. > > Associate Professor of Economics > > Drury University > > 417.889.5609 (home) > > 417.873.7299 (office) > > > > > > http://www.hotmail.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV6-N664SB FLIES--Finally!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Date: Oct 13, 2002
Stein, CONGRATULATIONS & WELL DONE !! Chuck & Dave Rowbotham RV-8A >From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: "Rv-List" , "Rv6-List" >Subject: RV-List: RV6-N664SB FLIES--Finally!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! >Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 17:38:06 -0500 > > >Hi All, > >Just a very quick update to let you know that another fledgling has "left >the nest". > > >Cheers, >Stein Bruch >RV6, N664SB >FLYING! (what a feeling to type that in this space). > > MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 13, 2002
From: Art Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net>
Subject: Re: Windscreen defrost
I just put two extra cooling fans in my computer which were under four dollars each. They will go for thousands of hours. If they are 12 volt units, this may represent an inexpensive, reliable, and convenient solution. Charles Brame wrote: > > I plan to install a couple of small fans also. I'd be interested in > hearing (or seeing) how you installed them. Did you install a grill? If > so, where did you find it? > > Charlie Brame > RV-6A N11CB > San Antonio > > ------------------------------------------------------ > > From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> > Subject: RE: RV-List: Windscreen defrost > > > posted by: dmedema(at)att.net > > > > I enjoyed the recent thread on parking brakes and would > > like to see a similar one on canopy defrosters. > > > > If you have defrosting, do you use it? How often? > > Would you do it again? > > I have two little muffin fans directed up through the glareshield onto > the windscreen on my slider 6A, and I've used them quite a few times. > Never needed them in flight, but often after startup in the winter to > see during taxi. > > Alex Peterson > Maple Grove, MN > RV6-A N66AP 215 hours > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-8A - "Blue Angles" pictures
Date: Oct 13, 2002
All, We finally got our pictures on the RV-List - photos. The only photo missing is the One with Dave and myself in the picture. Apparently the flash card was full. Since Dave is my partner and the one who did the majority of the work (as well as my son) we will be updating the pictures. In the mean time, if anyone has any questions or comments, I'll make sure they get to Dave. BTW, we choose the "Blue Angels" in memory of my dad & Dave's grandfather, who was a career NAVY and was a great supporter of the BA. These RVs are super a/c - keep pounding those rivets - you'll be rewarded so many times over. Good Building, Chuck & Dave Rowbotham RV-8A http://www.hotmail.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DICK PITTENGER" <DICKPITTENGER(at)worldnet.att.net>
"Kathy McCoy" , "RV List" , "Pittenger Family" , , "Tom Jensen" , "Don Karbowski" , "Bob Luehr" ,
Subject: Fw: Financial terminology
Date: Oct 13, 2002
----- Original Message ----- From: <Marybooth(at)aol.com> Subject: Fwd: Financial terminology > . > > CEO: chief embezzlement officer. > > > > CFO: corporate fraud officer. > > > > BULL MARKET -- A random market movement causing an investor to mistake > > himself for a financial genius. > > > > BEAR MARKET -- A 6 to 18 month period when the kids get no allowance, the > > wife gets no jewelry, and the husband gets no sex. > > > > VALUE INVESTING -- The art of buying low and selling lower. > > > > P/E RATIO -- The percentage of investors wetting their pants as the market > > keeps crashing. > > > > BROKER -- What my broker has made me. > > > > STANDARD & POOR -- Your life in a nutshell. > > > > STOCK "ANAL"YST! -- Idiot who just downgraded your stock. > > > > STOCK SPLIT -- When your ex-wife and her lawyer split your assets equally > > between themselves. > > > > FINANCIAL PLANNER -- A guy whose phone has been disconnected. > > > > MARKET CORRECTION -- The day after you buy stocks. > > > > CASH FLOW -- The movement your money makes as it disappears down the > toilet. > > > > YAHOO -- What you yell after selling it to some poor sucker for $240 per > > share. > > > > WINDOWS 2000 -- What you jump out of when you're the sucker who bought > Yahoo > > @ $240 per share. > > > > INSTITUTIONAL INVESTOR -- Past year investor who's now locked up in a > > nuthouse. > > > > PROFIT -- an archaic word no longer in use. > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 12, 2002
From: Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net>
Subject: Re: RV6-N664SB FLIES--Finally!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Congratulations, Stein - great job!!! Stein Bruch wrote: > > > Hi All, > > Just a very quick update to let you know that another fledgling has "left > the nest". > > N664SB was signed off this morning by DAR Dale Gauger (DAR for American > Champion). > > First flight was PHENOMENAL! FYI...I know why people don't post too many > details about their first flight, I'm too D#$mned excited right now to do > anything but walk around with this stupid grin contorting my face. Here's a > quick overview. > > First of all, about my field. It's about 40' wide x 1800' long carved into > the middle of a corn field with trees at one end. > > Test pilot was me, chase plane was unfairly a friend in a Decathlon. I > lined the plane up on the runway, pushed in the throttle, raised the tail, > and by the time I had a chance to move my eyes from the runway to the > airspeed indicator I was flying! Climbing out at 120 produced a > 1500+/minute climb, and I busted right against the MSP Class B airspace > (2300') before I could even think! On top of that the plane was > accelerating like mad, when I started (quite drastically) to level out at > 2250', I was already passing 140 on the speedo! > > Flew south to get out from under the B airspace and gain some altitude. > Climbed to 4000', practiced some turns, small standard rate to begin with, > but the plane soon forced me into some steeper turns. Setup for some > stalls, and performed a regiment of stalls. No good details on stalls, but > I can tell you the plane flies hands off with the ball perfectly centered. > Stalls were abrupt, no buffet, but also NO wing drop. Just a quick break > straight ahead. > > Goofed around some more and headed back to the airport for landing. Since > my runway is somewhat "size limited", I didn't have the luxury of carrying a > bucket load of extra speed. > > Flared with some power, and firmly planted myself back on earth. Touchdown > to stop was WAYYYY less than half the runway! Not a perfect sqeaker, but > then again I wasn't carrying any speed for floating. At this point I don't > give a crap, it was perfect to the guy in the cockpit! Directional control > is fine, and visibility is wonderful except in the flare. > > Anyway, I'm too excited to keep going. Got to go make some phone calls to > brag! > > Keep up pounding those rivits, It's well worth it. WHAT AN AMAZING airplane! > > Cheers, > Stein Bruch > RV6, N664SB > FLYING! (what a feeling to type that in this space). > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HCRV6(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 13, 2002
Subject: Re: RV6-N664SB FLIES--Finally!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Congratulations Stein, when you calm down how about some details like what engine and prop are you using, etc. Harry Crosby Pleasanton, California RV-6, electrical stuff (wiring panel now) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jerry2DT(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 13, 2002
Subject: First flight
Stein... Thanks for sharing that with the rest of us rivet-pounding fanatics, it is truly inspirational. My wife (co-rivetress and pilot) says: "It gives me goosebumps!" Jerry Cochran -6a/Finish kit In a message dated 10/12/02 11:54:38 PM, rv6-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes: << First flight was PHENOMENAL! FYI...I know why people don't post too many details about their first flight, I'm too D#$mned excited right now to do anything but walk around with this stupid grin contorting my face. Here's a quick overview. >> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RGray67968(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 13, 2002
Subject: Re: First flight
In a message dated 10/13/02 11:00:36 AM Pacific Daylight Time, Jerry2DT(at)aol.com writes: > First flight was PHENOMENAL! > Stein, Congratulations!!! Enjoy that nice landing, they usually get a little bouncier before the get better : ). Be careful and respect your machine.......but have a little fun while you're at it!! Rick Gray RV6 Flying (Ohio) at the Buffalo Farm 104 hours since 7 August including a memorable trip to Florida w/Dad ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 13, 2002
From: Todd Rudberg <todd_rudberg(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Click Bond Cable Ties.
Anybody out there used these? They look great (if expensive). If so, what partnumbers did you find useful. I am definitely going to spend some money on these, just don't want to get the wrong stuff. Also, if you did a really nice job running your cables to the tail and other places in the airframe, please send me a pic or two of your solution. Thanks guys, Todd. www.rvwoody.com www.acubedllc.com Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More http://faith.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 13, 2002
From: Roger Crandell <rwc(at)swcp.com>
Subject: For Sale: new Van's FP-12 spinner kit
For sale. Van's FP-12, 12" spinner kit for wooden prop. Has 12 inch rear bulkhead. New in box. $105 new from Vans, will sell for $80 including shipping. COD extra. Roger ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Frank
Date: Oct 13, 2002
Looking for Frank Dombroski. Frank, please contact Vince at vwelch(at)knownet.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom and Faye" <tcrupe(at)ridgenet.net>
Subject: Re: RV4-List: 402 Weldments
Date: Oct 13, 2002
Dave, I just replaced the 402 and 403 old style brackets in my aircraft S/N 62. They fit almost perfect. Check the dimensions of the brackets with the numbers on sheet 34 of the plans, if you haven't already. There may have been a mistake in the manufacture of the brackets. If not that, I would not have a clue. They should just lay right in there. Hopefully some else may have and answer. Tom Rupe S/N 62 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave Cooke" <pitot(at)norlight.org> Subject: RV4-List: 402 Weldments > --> RV4-List message posted by: "Dave Cooke" > > It appears that I must trim about 1/4 inch from the skin side of the base plate of the 402 weldments in order to make the sides of the longerons close enough to the skin line to rivet the skin to the longerons and legs of the weldment. This is a very critical area since the engine mount bolts go through these plates. Is there anyone else who is having or who remembers having this problem? If so, how did it work out? > > Dave Cooke > > North Idaho > > Fuselage > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gabe and Marisol Ferrer" <ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Special N Number
Date: Oct 13, 2002
David: If you don't get the N Number you asked for, call them. I requested N2GX in extra large bold font, so they wouldn't miss it, and instead I got my second choice. Even though my first choice was available. I called them, and they just said that they made a mistake. They corrected their mistake and reserved N2GX for me. Gabe A Ferrer (RV6, N2GX reserved, SE Florida) ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net Cell: 561 758 8894 Night or FAX: 561 622 0960 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 13, 2002
From: Greg Hunsicker <gh2538(at)cjnetworks.com>
Subject: firewall corners buckling
Has anyone had experience with the lower firewall corners buckling slightly? My RV-4 0-320 150HP had cracks in the motor mount around the lower and middle weldments next to the firewall area. I had gussets welded to this mount and it should be stronger than ever but now do I need to replace the buckled skin in these lower corners or just straighten them back out as best can and put the bird back together? I have inspected inside the fuselage at all 6 bolt areas and find nothing that looks wrong. Any suggestions would be appreciated as it has now been about 30 days since airworthy and I am going crazy sitting here on deck. Greg Hunsicker Sunset Strip Airpark 90KS Berryton, KS ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Garrett" <rgarrett7(at)attbi.com>
Subject: RV Fuel Tank Leaks
Date: Oct 13, 2002
I had a similar problem with my fuel tanks. Unfortunately, my RV-6A was a "QuickBuild", so it was particularly annoying to have to fix leaks that I didn't cause. Also, the leaks didn't show up until after I was flying. I assume the vibration / pressure changes were responsible. When I opened up the fuel tank through the sender, the EAA tech counselor (who happens to be a ProSeal guru) and a repeat offender RV builder both said the ProSeal job looked defective. Must have been a bad afternoon in the Philippines, because there was a different problem with my other fuel tank. Anyway, I also tried the Locktite Green approach. It worked ... for a few days. Then the vibration of flying caused the tank to open up again and the leak to reappear. Being the persistent type (and because the other fixes are increasingly difficult), I did this 3 times before ultimately giving up. I have really gotten good at removing fuel tanks! The approach that has worked for me (so far) was to use a sloshing compound. You will hear lots of horror stories about the stuff coming lose eventually. My aforementioned tech counselor said this was due to not having the tank clean enough. So, I rinsed it 3x with acetone and once with 409. Should have been clean! Since then I have been keeping a close eye on the gascolator filter and the fuel tank drain. No evidence of delamination. If you are interested, the compound I used was: Flamemaster CS 3600. I bought it from SealPak in Witchita, KS 316-942-6211. It cost about $25 for a quart, which is WAY more than you need. I applied 3 coats, just for good measure. Gee, I must like to do things 3 times. The other bad news: I opened up the fuel sender and poured the sloshing compound in through there. It let me get much more controlled application. I was also careful to just slosh around the seams (to the extent) I could. No leaks after about 3 weeks and 15 hours of flying. There are 2 other choices: Cut an access hole in the bay that has the leak, scrap out the old ProSeal as thoroughly as you can, clean aggressively, then reapply ProSeal. This is probably the "right" way to do it. The final choice: build / acquire a new fuel tank. The reason I mention this is that I had a QB kit, so I probably could have gotten a new tank from Van's. However, the thought of trying to get all those screw holes to match (since they would now have to be blind-drilled) was daunting. Also, I'm not sure how well the leading edge would have matched. Since you are not a builder, all these options may sound daunting. I guess technically only an A&P or the person with the Repairman's certificate is supposed to do these repairs. Hope this was somewhat helpful ... Randy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Garrett" <rgarrett7(at)attbi.com>
Subject: Computational Fluid Dynamics?
Date: Oct 13, 2002
Has anyone done CFD studies of RV's? Randy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Garrett" <rgarrett7(at)attbi.com>
Subject: MT prop performance
Date: Oct 13, 2002
I would like to compare notes with other people who have an MT prop on their RV. I have an RV-6A QB with an O-360 and the 3-bladed MT prop. I now have about 30 hours on it. I have noticed that the prop seems to hold the RPM that I have set using the prop governor much longer ... that is, with much less manifold pressure ... than any other constant speed prop I have flown. This is mostly apparent when reducing power on downwind or when really slowing down for slow flight. I would say the manifold pressure is between 5 and 10 inches before the prop can no longer hold 2300 or 2400 RPM. So, I think the blades are getting much flatter / going to higher pitch than other constant speed props. One effect of this is that I get a LOT of drag from the prop. I can really come down quick by reducing the power. This is not necessarily bad, just different. So, I wanted to see whether this is standard behavior for MT props. Thanks, Randy ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 14, 2002
From: Doug Gray <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au>
Subject: Lycoming Engine preservation
Can anyone tell me the extent of the preservation and the amount of oil in cylinders etc fir the Lycoming Factory preservation process? I have an engine in storage in its original shiping packaging, sealed in the plastic bag provided and has been that way for about 4 years. When shop space permits I have been flipping it over to move the oil around the engine but I have assumed there really is oil inside. Do I need to open the plastic bag up and fill it up with oil or would I be better off just leaving the bag sealed up? Doug Gray Fuse ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
Subject: Computational Fluid Dynamics?
Date: Oct 14, 2002
Some number of years ago someone did a 6A, and published various results in Sport Aviation. I'd guess it was about 5 years ago. Call EAA publications. Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN RV6-A N66AP 215 hours > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy Garrett > Sent: Monday, October 14, 2002 1:42 AM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Computational Fluid Dynamics? > > > > Has anyone done CFD studies of RV's? > > Randy > > > ========== > ========== > ========== > ========== > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 14, 2002
From: "Bill Gunn" <WGUNN(at)dot.state.tx.us>
Subject: Re: RV4-List: firewall corners buckling
I have an RV-4 with 1310 hours, 1301 flown with an 0-320 F/P prop. When I bought the aircraft in 1996 it had 525 hours and a 1 " long wrinkle along the (pilot's) left firewall step vertical bend about 2/3 of the way from the top of the step out. At 850 or so hours I had a 1/4 "crack in the engine mount cluster by the left landing gear rod mounting tube - repaired by TIG welding. The 1 " wrinkle never grew or changed. I just reengined with a new mount (conical to dynafocal) 0-360 and C/S prop. I straightened the wrinkle as best possible while modifying the firewall. Bottom line, check it, but don't worry about it. >>> gh2538(at)cjnetworks.com 10/13/02 08:04PM >>> --> RV4-List message posted by: Greg Hunsicker Has anyone had experience with the lower firewall corners buckling slightly? My RV-4 0-320 150HP had cracks in the motor mount around the lower and middle weldments next to the firewall area. I had gussets welded to this mount and it should be stronger than ever but now do I need to replace the buckled skin in these lower corners or just straighten them back out as best can and put the bird back together? I have inspected inside the fuselage at all 6 bolt areas and find nothing that looks wrong. Any suggestions would be appreciated as it has now been about 30 days since airworthy and I am going crazy sitting here on deck. Greg Hunsicker Sunset Strip Airpark 90KS Berryton, KS ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 14, 2002
From: Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: MT prop performance
> >I would like to compare notes with other people who have an MT prop on their >RV. > >I have an RV-6A QB with an O-360 and the 3-bladed MT prop. I now have about >30 hours on it. I have noticed that the prop seems to hold the RPM that I >have set using the prop governor much longer ... that is, with much less >manifold pressure ... than any other constant speed prop I have flown. This >is mostly apparent when reducing power on downwind or when really slowing >down for slow flight. I would say the manifold pressure is between 5 and 10 >inches before the prop can no longer hold 2300 or 2400 RPM. So, I think the >blades are getting much flatter / going to higher pitch than other constant >speed props. One effect of this is that I get a LOT of drag from the prop. >I can really come down quick by reducing the power. This is not necessarily >bad, just different. So, I wanted to see whether this is standard behavior >for MT props. > >Thanks, > >Randy > You could probably adjust the low pitch stop so it couldn't go as fine. Hartzell recommends seting the low pitch stop on their props be set so the prop can't quite make rated rpm during a full power static run-up. As soon as the aircraft starts to move forward during the take-off roll the rpm climbs a bit and the prop starts to govern. Having the fine pitch stop set too fine probably isn't a good idea as it increases the windmilling prop drag in the event of an engine failure. -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (cowling, wing tip lights) Ottawa, Canada http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: firewall corners buckling
Date: Oct 14, 2002
> > >Has anyone had experience with the lower firewall corners buckling >slightly? My RV-4 0-320 150HP had cracks in the motor mount around the >lower and middle weldments next to the firewall area. I had gussets >welded to this mount and it should be stronger than ever but now do I >need to replace the buckled skin in these lower corners or just >straighten them back out as best can and put the bird back together? I >have inspected inside the fuselage at all 6 bolt areas and find nothing >that looks wrong. Any suggestions would be appreciated as it has now >been about 30 days since airworthy and I am going crazy sitting here on >deck. >Greg Hunsicker >Sunset Strip Airpark 90KS >Berryton, KS Greg, I believe this is not uncommon with the -4's. A buddy of mine had the same problem, and kept flying it for many months with no issues at all. He was also planning to remove the engine and mount to fix and beef up the area, but ended up selling the airplane first. I reckon Van's would have a suggested course of action for you. I'm sure it's been brought to their attention by now. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD 307 hrs http://www.hotmail.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: OrndorffG(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 14, 2002
Subject: Looking for Marc Drake
Sorry to bother everyone with this. If anyone knows how to contact Marc Drake, I sure could use some help. I need to get in contact with him about his seat order and have been unable to reach him by the phone numbers I have on record. Thanks for the help! Becki Orndorff GeoBeck, Inc. www.fly-gbi.com 940-648-0841 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Huft" <rv8tor(at)lazy8.net>
Subject: MT prop performance
Date: Oct 14, 2002
The other issue here is that with a governor failure, the prop will go to flat pitch. You want the engine to be able to deliver a fair amount of power without exceeding red line rpms. I would say you do want to adjust the low pitch stop. I have an MT on my 8, which I hope to fly this week for the first time, I will report back on it. John Pagosa Springs, CO -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kevin Horton Subject: Re: RV-List: MT prop performance > >I would like to compare notes with other people who have an MT prop on their >RV. > >I have an RV-6A QB with an O-360 and the 3-bladed MT prop. I now have about >30 hours on it. I have noticed that the prop seems to hold the RPM that I >have set using the prop governor much longer ... that is, with much less >manifold pressure ... than any other constant speed prop I have flown. This >is mostly apparent when reducing power on downwind or when really slowing >down for slow flight. I would say the manifold pressure is between 5 and 10 >inches before the prop can no longer hold 2300 or 2400 RPM. So, I think the >blades are getting much flatter / going to higher pitch than other constant >speed props. One effect of this is that I get a LOT of drag from the prop. >I can really come down quick by reducing the power. This is not necessarily >bad, just different. So, I wanted to see whether this is standard behavior >for MT props. > >Thanks, > >Randy > You could probably adjust the low pitch stop so it couldn't go as fine. Hartzell recommends seting the low pitch stop on their props be set so the prop can't quite make rated rpm during a full power static run-up. As soon as the aircraft starts to move forward during the take-off roll the rpm climbs a bit and the prop starts to govern. Having the fine pitch stop set too fine probably isn't a good idea as it increases the windmilling prop drag in the event of an engine failure. -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (cowling, wing tip lights) Ottawa, Canada http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Melvinke(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 14, 2002
Subject: Re: RV4-List: firewall corners buckling
For me the buckling of the lower corners of the firewall meant cracked weldments. I assume that you have examined those carefully. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bartrim, Todd" <sbartrim(at)mail.canfor.ca>
Subject: Windscreen defrost
Date: Oct 14, 2002
> I just put two extra cooling fans in my computer which were under four > dollars each. They will go for thousands of hours. If they are 12 volt > units, this may represent an inexpensive, reliable, and convenient > solution. > > Charles Brame wrote: > This is exactly what I did. While I've not yet flown, I believe they will work excellent. Cheap, light & effective. They are not plumbed to the heater, but rather just draw air from behind the panel. I do live in the north where I feel these will be worth their weight, however if I lived in a warm dry climate, I probably wouldn't have used anything. I used 2 of them, but another local builder only used 1. S. Todd Bartrim Turbo 13B rotary powered RX-9endurance (FWF) C-FSTB (reserved) http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm RE: RV-List: Windscreen defrost I just put two extra cooling fans in my computer which were under four dollars each. They will go for thousands of hours. If they are 12 volt units, this may represent an inexpensive, reliable, and convenient solution. Charles Brame wrote: This is exactly what I did. While I've not yet flown, I believe they will work excellent. Cheap, light effective. They are not plumbed to the heater, but rather just draw air from behind the panel. I do live in the north where I feel these will be worth their weight, however if I lived in a warm dry climate, I probably wouldn't have used anything. I used 2 of them, but another local builder only used 1. S. Todd Bartrim Turbo 13B rotary powered RX-9endurance (FWF) C-FSTB (reserved) http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 14, 2002
Subject: Re: Painting Checkerboards
In a message dated 10/11/2002 10:11:42 AM Pacific Daylight Time, barrypote(at)comcast.net writes: > > Tim, > I saw and talked to you at OSH. Your checker board is the best I have > ever seen. Two things: > 1. Can you elaborate on "application paper" that you mentioned? > 2. Did you paint the tail white, then pull out every other square of a > black back ground, then stick the remaining black checker board onto the > white tail, then clear over that? > > Barry Pote RV9a finishing > > > Go to a Graphics shop and have them cut horizontal and vertical lines in > the > > vinyl sheet, remove every other square. Apply some application paper and > now > > you have a big checker board sticker. Apply that to your rudder or what > ever > > and shoot some clear coat on it. this worked very well for me and looks > great > > > > Good Luck > > Tim Barnes > > Meangreen RV-4. > > > Thanks Barry, the applacation paper is a tackey paper that goes over the vinyl to hold the squares in place once the backing from the vinyl is removed. The graphics shop will put this on after he cuts and removes every other square. I did paint the rudder white and wet sanded it pryor to putting on the checker boards. Then I shot a coat of clear coat over the rudder Good Luck Tim Barnes ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "TruTrak Flight Systems" <info(at)trutrakflightsystems.com>
Subject: RV-9A Slider lock
Date: Oct 14, 2002
Does anyone have a good installation for a locking canopy on an RV-9A? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 14, 2002
From: JCTV <jctv(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Wiring in the Vertical Stabilizer?
Just a quick question, I am about to rivet close my Vertical Stabilizer and wanted to know if I should run some string thru the ribs to pull cables with later? If so, what might I run thru there? (Antenna Coax, Power cable ???) Thanks, JC Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More
http://faith.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Neil McLeod" <bedrock(at)theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Lycoming Engine preservation
Date: Oct 14, 2002
Tanis has a kit for this, www.tanair.com Neil ----- Original Message ----- From: "Doug Gray" <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au> Subject: RV-List: Lycoming Engine preservation > > Can anyone tell me the extent of the preservation and the amount of oil > in cylinders etc fir the Lycoming Factory preservation process? > > I have an engine in storage in its original shiping packaging, sealed in > the plastic bag provided and has been that way for about 4 years. When > shop space permits I have been flipping it over to move the oil around > the engine but I have assumed there really is oil inside. > > Do I need to open the plastic bag up and fill it up with oil or would I > be better off just leaving the bag sealed up? > > Doug Gray > Fuse > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Wiring in the Vertical Stabilizer?
Date: Oct 14, 2002
I have a VOR/G-S antenna on the top of my vertical stabilizer. For what it's worth, if you forget the string, you can poke a hinge pin wire up through the assembly (i.e. the hinge pin wires are long enough to go from tip to root), but I ran a string (and also put grommets in holes) before closing everything up. Good luck. Rick Jory RV8A ----- Original Message ----- From: JCTV <jctv(at)yahoo.com> Subject: RV-List: Wiring in the Vertical Stabilizer? > > Just a quick question, I am about to rivet close my > Vertical Stabilizer and wanted to know if I should run > some string thru the ribs to pull cables with later? > > If so, what might I run thru there? (Antenna Coax, > Power cable ???) > > Thanks, > > JC > > > Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More > http://faith.yahoo.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gene Smith" <esmith6(at)satx.rr.com>
Subject: Cracked Engine Mount Weldments
Date: Oct 14, 2002
JKL Greg, This is probably all wrong, but something for all of us to think about......you wrote, "cracks in the motor mount around the lower and middle weldments next to the firewall area. I had gussets welded to this mount and it should be stronger than ever." I might suggest that welding the mounts may have caused the "temper" to be changed either softer or harder, which could cause excess movement, or not enough, which possibly could cause the skin in that area to buckle. For a critical area such as the engine mounts, I don't think I would let anyone weld them unless they were a Certified Aircraft Welder, because that heat has to be perfect for that type of metal. There is one other thing to think about......If there were no hard landings, maybe crosswinds during landing or takeoff could be responsible. Crosswinds can cause incredible side loads and torsion on all aspects of our landing gear system and this is transferred throughout the entire attached area of the fuselage......take a look at your tires after a good bout with a crosswind, and think about all the rudder "kicking" that took place to just stay on the runway..........CHEERS!!!!!! jK ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Bibb" <richard.bibb(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: RV4-List: Cracked Engine Mount Weldments
Date: Oct 14, 2002
Operation from rough field can add to the stress. As for crosswind landings - work on technique - you ought to ba able to touch down one wing low if necessary to avoid landing in a crab with resulting big swerve/side loads.... Richard RV-4 N144KT ( Rebuilding and installing new canopy) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HCRV6(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 14, 2002
Subject: Antenna location question
There's a lot in the archives on this subject but I could not find an answer to my specific question so here goes. I am planning on locating my com (bent whip) and transponder antennas in the opposite corners of the wing root area where the gear weldments would be if I was building a 6A, inboard from the side skin about 6 in. on each side and an inch or so ahead of the spar. I would sure appreciate hearing from anyone who has done this pro or con on this location. I'm mostly concerned about the wing blocking the com signal when I'm on the ground. Harry Crosby Pleasanton, California RV-6, electrical stuff ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Neil McLeod" <neilmcleod(at)direcway.com>
Subject: Re: Antenna location question
Date: Oct 14, 2002
I don't know how well it works but that is approximately where the factory has theirs. I assume they would change it if it didn't work. Neil ----- Original Message ----- From: <HCRV6(at)aol.com> Subject: RV-List: Antenna location question > > There's a lot in the archives on this subject but I could not find an answer > to my specific question so here goes. I am planning on locating my com (bent > whip) and transponder antennas in the opposite corners of the wing root area > where the gear weldments would be if I was building a 6A, inboard from the > side skin about 6 in. on each side and an inch or so ahead of the spar. I > would sure appreciate hearing from anyone who has done this pro or con on > this location. I'm mostly concerned about the wing blocking the com signal > when I'm on the ground. > > Harry Crosby > Pleasanton, California > RV-6, electrical stuff > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 14, 2002
From: Greg Hunsicker <gh2538(at)cjnetworks.com>
Subject: Re: RV4-List: Cracked Engine Mount Weldments
I had the mount tig welded as per Vans directions. I do appreciate your thoughts though on the subject. In my case I had a couple pretty hard landings doing some very short field practice. For my sake I am glad that my practice has been made perfect. Greg Hunsicker Gene Smith wrote: >--> RV4-List message posted by: "Gene Smith" > >JKL Greg, > This is probably all wrong, but something for all of us to think about......you wrote, "cracks in the motor mount around the lower and middle weldments next to the firewall area. I had gussets welded to this mount and it should be stronger than ever." > I might suggest that welding the mounts may have caused the "temper" to be changed either softer or harder, which could cause excess movement, or not enough, which possibly could cause the skin in that area to buckle. For a critical area such as the engine mounts, I don't think I would let anyone weld them unless they were a Certified Aircraft Welder, because that heat has to be perfect for that type of metal. > There is one other thing to think about......If there were no hard landings, maybe crosswinds during landing or takeoff could be responsible. Crosswinds can cause incredible side loads and torsion on all aspects of our landing gear system and this is transferred throughout the entire attached area of the fuselage......take a look at your tires after a good bout with a crosswind, and think about all the rudder "kicking" that took place to just stay on the runway..........CHEERS!!!!!! jK > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 14, 2002
From: Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net>
Subject: Re: Antenna location question
Hi Harry, I was about to ask the same question. Putting the com antennas in front of the spar is especially attractive because it avoids going through or around the spar. If they are toward the outside they avoid the exhaust stream. I was also thinking seriously of putting the transponder and the markerbeacon antennas forward of the spar ahead of the com antennas, also toward the outside. I'll be interested in other responses to your question. Richard Dudley -6A N331RD, about to hang the engine HCRV6(at)aol.com wrote: > > > There's a lot in the archives on this subject but I could not find an answer > to my specific question so here goes. I am planning on locating my com (bent > whip) and transponder antennas in the opposite corners of the wing root area > where the gear weldments would be if I was building a 6A, inboard from the > side skin about 6 in. on each side and an inch or so ahead of the spar. I > would sure appreciate hearing from anyone who has done this pro or con on > this location. I'm mostly concerned about the wing blocking the com signal > when I'm on the ground. > > Harry Crosby > Pleasanton, California > RV-6, electrical stuff > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net>
Subject: Matronics List Rules
Date: Oct 14, 2002
I would like to respectfully remind some listers that if you read the user information which the webmaster sends you with your subscription, and the reminders he sends out occasionally, you will see that posting jokes on the list, and carrying on personal sales business on the list are against the guidelines and intent of the List as set up by our generous benefactor. Let's not clutter the list with Internet Trash, and please, after the initial contact on something for sale, use personal email off list. Matt and the rest of us will appreciate it. Hey, I waste too much time reading this thing as it is! Gary ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 14, 2002
From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Antenna location question
Richard Dudley wrote: > > > Hi Harry, > I was about to ask the same question. Putting the com antennas in front > of the spar is especially attractive because it avoids going through or > around the spar. If they are toward the outside they avoid the exhaust > stream. I was also thinking seriously of putting the transponder and the > markerbeacon antennas forward of the spar ahead of the com antennas, > also toward the outside. > > I'll be interested in other responses to your question. > > Richard Dudley > -6A N331RD, about to hang the engine > > HCRV6(at)aol.com wrote: > > > > > > There's a lot in the archives on this subject but I could not find an answer > > to my specific question so here goes. I am planning on locating my com (bent > > whip) and transponder antennas in the opposite corners of the wing root area > > where the gear weldments would be if I was building a 6A, inboard from the > > side skin about 6 in. on each side and an inch or so ahead of the spar. I > > would sure appreciate hearing from anyone who has done this pro or con on > > this location. I'm mostly concerned about the wing blocking the com signal > > when I'm on the ground. > > > > Harry Crosby > > Pleasanton, California > > RV-6, electrical stuff > > > Works fine on my RV-6, I have two coms with each antenna in front of the spar just as close to the side skins as possible. I then put my Transponder antenna right in the middle between the two. Jerry ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Wire in Vertical Stabilizer?
Date: Oct 15, 2002
JC, Do it now! It will be some time until you need decide, but you'll then have option. I placed bushings in inline holes along with the suggested string. Have since installed a third (red) strobe on top. Some don't want light there as may reflect too much into canopy at night, but I want mainly for daytime/dusk "see and be seen." JPB -8 fuselage >From: JCTV <jctv(at)yahoo.com> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Wiring in the Vertical Stabilizer? >Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 09:53:44 -0700 (PDT) > > >Just a quick question, I am about to rivet close my >Vertical Stabilizer and wanted to know if I should run >some string thru the ribs to pull cables with later? > >If so, what might I run thru there? (Antenna Coax, >Power cable ???) > >Thanks, > >JC > > >Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More >http://faith.yahoo.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com>
Subject: Fw: RV4-List: Cracked Engine Mount Weldments
Date: Oct 14, 2002
In addition to all that Gene listed below... RV-4's firewalls have a tendency to buckle. ----- Original Message ----- From: Gene Smith <esmith6(at)satx.rr.com> Subject: RV4-List: Cracked Engine Mount Weldments > --> RV4-List message posted by: "Gene Smith" > > JKL Greg, > This is probably all wrong, but something for all of us to think about......you wrote, "cracks in the motor mount around the lower and middle weldments next to the firewall area. I had gussets welded to this mount and it should be stronger than ever." > I might suggest that welding the mounts may have caused the "temper" to be changed either softer or harder, which could cause excess movement, or not enough, which possibly could cause the skin in that area to buckle. For a critical area such as the engine mounts, I don't think I would let anyone weld them unless they were a Certified Aircraft Welder, because that heat has to be perfect for that type of metal. > There is one other thing to think about......If there were no hard landings, maybe crosswinds during landing or takeoff could be responsible. Crosswinds can cause incredible side loads and torsion on all aspects of our landing gear system and this is transferred throughout the entire attached area of the fuselage......take a look at your tires after a good bout with a crosswind, and think about all the rudder "kicking" that took place to just stay on the runway..........CHEERS!!!!!! jK > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: Wiring in the Vertical Stabilizer?
Date: Oct 14, 2002
I didn't, but wish I had so I could wire a video camera lense back there. Do it now, just in case...... - Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of JCTV > Sent: Monday, October 14, 2002 12:54 PM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Wiring in the Vertical Stabilizer? > > > > Just a quick question, I am about to rivet close my > Vertical Stabilizer and wanted to know if I should run > some string thru the ribs to pull cables with later? > > If so, what might I run thru there? (Antenna Coax, > Power cable ???) > > Thanks, > > JC > > > Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More http://faith.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Subject: Re: Antenna location question
Date: Oct 14, 2002
My bent whip was mounted in the aft section of that same area. Basically, the back side of seat pan area. The transponder was mounted on the opposite side of this. There was not any interference at all with my Garmin GNC 250XL. Also, you still could not see the whip at that location because of the flaps. I could transmit to the tower while inside of my hanger which is on the opposite side of a large airport, and faces the opposite direction. Paul Besing RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10) http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software http://www.kitlog.com ----- Original Message ----- From: <HCRV6(at)aol.com> Subject: RV-List: Antenna location question > > There's a lot in the archives on this subject but I could not find an answer > to my specific question so here goes. I am planning on locating my com (bent > whip) and transponder antennas in the opposite corners of the wing root area > where the gear weldments would be if I was building a 6A, inboard from the > side skin about 6 in. on each side and an inch or so ahead of the spar. I > would sure appreciate hearing from anyone who has done this pro or con on > this location. I'm mostly concerned about the wing blocking the com signal > when I'm on the ground. > > Harry Crosby > Pleasanton, California > RV-6, electrical stuff > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: FLSKIER(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 15, 2002
Subject: Electric/Electric or Manual Trim
I will be ordering the RV-7 empennage kit soon. I would appreciate comments on setting up the trim. I am familiar with Van's manual and electric and would go with the electric trim but I have also seen messages about an electric trim from Gretz that puts the motor on the airframe instead of in the elevator. What would you do if you were starting next week? Thanks, Andy Cobb ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ken Stribling" <ken(at)soundsuckers.com>
Subject: Re: Electric/Electric or Manual Trim
Date: Oct 15, 2002
I am flying a 6-A now and am thinking of starting a 9-A soon I will be going with a manual trim the next time. The electric is to fast in cruise configuration. Ken S. 60 hrs and Building withdrawals ----- Original Message ----- From: <FLSKIER(at)aol.com> Subject: RV-List: Electric/Electric or Manual Trim > > I will be ordering the RV-7 empennage kit soon. I would appreciate comments > on setting up the trim. I am familiar with Van's manual and electric and > would go with the electric trim but I have also seen messages about an > electric trim from Gretz that puts the motor on the airframe instead of in > the elevator. What would you do if you were starting next week? > > Thanks, > Andy Cobb > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Hank Landman" <pukndg(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: RV-4 Spinner and Prop Extension
Date: Oct 15, 2002
Hello All, I own an older RV-4 (#4) fitted with a wooden prop. The aircraft was built with a metal fixed pitch prop and then converted to the wooden one. A 4" prop extension was installed which created a 1.5 inch gap between the cowling and the spinner. I am looking to purchase (new or used) a 3" extension (6 hole, 7/16" bolt) and 13" diameter spinner. I would like a high aspect ratio spinner, preferably with a fairly sharp pointed nose. If anyone has such a spinner/extension for sale or could lead me to a source, please advise. Regards, Hank Landman ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Don" <don(at)dmack.net>
Subject: Electric/Electric or Manual Trim
Date: Oct 15, 2002
Look at Matronics (our host): The Governor Mk III is an adjustable electronic speed reduction and switch multiplex for the MAC S4, 4A, S6, 6A, S8, and 8A electric aircraft trim servos. It is designed to be used in any application where an electric servo is used such as elevator, aileron, or rudder trim. Each servo application will require a separate Governor Mk III unit. http://www.matronics.com/governor/index.htm Don Mack RV-6A finishing www.dmack.net I am flying a 6-A now and am thinking of starting a 9-A soon I will be going with a manual trim the next time. The electric is to fast in cruise configuration. Ken S. 60 hrs and Building withdrawals > > I will be ordering the RV-7 empennage kit soon. I would appreciate comments > on setting up the trim. I am familiar with Van's manual and electric > and would go with the electric trim but I have also seen messages > about an electric trim from Gretz that puts the motor on the airframe > instead of in the elevator. What would you do if you were starting > next week? > > Thanks, > Andy Cobb ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 15, 2002
From: "Michael J. Robbins" <michael.j.robbins(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: RV-8 Upper Gear Leg Fairing
Norman; I used between 3 and 4 layers of 8 oz cloth. The forward part is thicker. They are quite stiff now. There really isn't room for any ribs or stiffeners. Mike Robbins RV8 > >Wouldn't it be worth the effort to stiffen the fairings with some kind of >ribbing on the inside? >How many layers thick did you make them? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fletcher Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Antenna location question
Date: Oct 15, 2002
Harry/Richard, I have two com antennas mounted as you suggest, forward of the wing spar and as wide as possible. I used doublers to stiffen a little. The transponder antenna is located aft of the baggage compartment, probably could have been forward of the wing spar as well. Anyway, all is well with the radios with the antennas in these locations. Pat Hatch RV-6, N44PH, 30 hours RV-4, N17PH, 700 hours Vero Beach, FL ----- Original Message ----- From: Richard Dudley Subject: Re: RV-List: Antenna location question Hi Harry, I was about to ask the same question. Putting the com antennas in front of the spar is especially attractive because it avoids going through or around the spar. If they are toward the outside they avoid the exhaust stream. I was also thinking seriously of putting the transponder and the markerbeacon antennas forward of the spar ahead of the com antennas, also toward the outside. I'll be interested in other responses to your question. Richard Dudley -6A N331RD, about to hang the engine HCRV6(at)aol.com wrote: > > > There's a lot in the archives on this subject but I could not find an answer > to my specific question so here goes. I am planning on locating my com (bent > whip) and transponder antennas in the opposite corners of the wing root area > where the gear weldments would be if I was building a 6A, inboard from the > side skin about 6 in. on each side and an inch or so ahead of the spar. I > would sure appreciate hearing from anyone who has done this pro or con on > this location. I'm mostly concerned about the wing blocking the com signal > when I'm on the ground. > > Harry Crosby > Pleasanton, California > RV-6, electrical stuff > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: Re: Electric/Electric or Manual Trim
Date: Oct 15, 2002
> I am flying a 6-A now and am thinking of starting a 9-A soon I will be going > with a manual trim the next time. The electric is to fast in cruise > configuration. > What about a two speed switch on the elevator trim? Low speed at cruise and reg speed when the flaps are down? Lots of info in the archives on how to do this. It has been a hot topic on this list several times in the last few years. Many RV drivers have the same complaint as you about the trim being to touchy at cruise. Norman Hunger RV6A Delta BC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <karpinski(at)baldcom.net>
Subject: Picking a GPS for VRF
Date: Oct 15, 2002
Have been looking at panel mounted GPS display units for VFR use....(limited panel space at 5" high max) Garmin, Apollo, Bendix/King It looks to me that the Bendix/King MDF-150 (with built in GPS receiver) @ $2800 give the most Bang for the Buck Quick Comments ? + or - about the Bendix ? Other makes/models you out there would consider.. ? Keeping the space requirements and $$ in the same range ? and available for owner installation. ********************** Then.. As I see it... I can use the output from the MDF 150.. Which is RS232.. To drive a future Trutrak DFC-200 which has GPss capability Nice.. _________________________ Al Karpinski RV-8.. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Subject: Re: Electric/Electric or Manual Trim
Date: Oct 15, 2002
I had the electric, and would definately go manual next time. I had a matronics govenor which helped, but it still doesn't give that seat of the pants feel that a manual trim knob does. I felt myself chasing the trim back and forth, instead of making minute twists very slowly with the manual trim knob on the 6A that I am flying now. More simple, and nothing to fail. Hands down I would go manual this time. And, I'm kind of a gadget geek, and normally would go for the electric stuff if I could, but not for the trim. Paul Besing RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10) http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software http://www.kitlog.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> Subject: Re: RV-List: Electric/Electric or Manual Trim > > > I am flying a 6-A now and am thinking of starting a 9-A soon I will be > going > > with a manual trim the next time. The electric is to fast in cruise > > configuration. > > > > What about a two speed switch on the elevator trim? Low speed at cruise and > reg speed when the flaps are down? Lots of info in the archives on how to do > this. It has been a hot topic on this list several times in the last few > years. Many RV drivers have the same complaint as you about the trim being > to touchy at cruise. > > Norman Hunger > RV6A Delta BC > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Subject: Re: Picking a GPS for VRF
Date: Oct 15, 2002
I had the Garmin GNC250XL GPS/COMM. I loved it. Loaded with features and has a great display. Price was about $2500. Great Comm, too. Never got any complaints on my transmissions. All in a one space unit. If was building another VFR ship, I would definately put this unit in again. Paul Besing RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10) http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software http://www.kitlog.com ----- Original Message ----- From: <karpinski(at)baldcom.net> Subject: RV-List: Picking a GPS for VRF > > > Have been looking at panel mounted GPS display units for VFR use....(limited > panel space at 5" high max) > > Garmin, Apollo, Bendix/King > > It looks to me that the Bendix/King MDF-150 (with built in GPS receiver) @ > $2800 give the most Bang for the Buck > > Quick Comments ? + or - about the Bendix ? > > Other makes/models you out there would consider.. ? > > Keeping the space requirements and $$ in the same range ? and available > for owner installation. > > ********************** > > Then.. As I see it... I can use the output from the MDF 150.. Which is > RS232.. > > To drive a future Trutrak DFC-200 which has GPss capability Nice.. > > _________________________ > > Al Karpinski > RV-8.. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: Picking a GPS for VRF
Date: Oct 15, 2002
Hi Al, I used a Skyforce IIICe, which is basically the same unit as the KMD-150(MFD)-not sure about a "MDF-150", but a lot less money. Take a look at my panel and you can see it installed @ http://www.steinair.com It also has the RS232 outputs, as do most all units now including handhelds. Cheers, Stein Bruch RV6, Minneapolis Flying!!!! Have been looking at panel mounted GPS display units for VFR use....(limited panel space at 5" high max) Garmin, Apollo, Bendix/King It looks to me that the Bendix/King MDF-150 (with built in GPS receiver) @ $2800 give the most Bang for the Buck Quick Comments ? + or - about the Bendix ? Other makes/models you out there would consider.. ? Keeping the space requirements and $$ in the same range ? and available for owner installation. ********************** Then.. As I see it... I can use the output from the MDF 150.. Which is RS232.. To drive a future Trutrak DFC-200 which has GPss capability Nice.. _________________________ Al Karpinski RV-8.. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 15, 2002
From: rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV4-List: RV-4 Spinner and Prop Extension
Hank; It sounds like you have a newer Constant speed cowling with a 4" extension for the older cowling. You can still buy a 2" extension drilled for 7/16 bolts from Van's and accomplish the mission. Aircraft Spruce has the spinner you desire.. Rob Ray --- Hank Landman wrote: > --> RV4-List message posted by: "Hank Landman" > > > Hello All, > > I own an older RV-4 (#4) fitted with a wooden prop. > The aircraft was built with a metal fixed pitch prop > and then converted to the wooden one. A 4" prop > extension was installed which created a 1.5 inch gap > between the cowling and the spinner. I am looking > to purchase (new or used) a 3" extension (6 hole, > 7/16" bolt) and 13" diameter spinner. I would like > a high aspect ratio spinner, preferably with a > fairly sharp pointed nose. If anyone has such a > spinner/extension for sale or could lead me to a > source, please advise. > > Regards, > > Hank Landman > > > > Contributions of > any other form > > latest messages. > other List members. > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare > http://www.matronics.com/search > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > > > > Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More http://faith.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <karpinski(at)baldcom.net>
Subject: Picking a GPS for VRF & Typo's !
Date: Oct 15, 2002
Sorry All :< It's absolutely amazing that no matter how may times I proof read and spell check a posting.. I still end up with major typo's KDM-150... (NOT MDF-150 %%$$@! !!! I have no idea where these typo's come from..) ************************** Also forgot to add I really would like nice moving map.. and the KMD has terrain elevation info displayed too.. The Apollo has it to.. for a lot more $$ Gamin does not have the terrain / elevation color contouring... The KMD has 232 output... But no ARINC29 for GSss Skyforce IIICe??.. Can't find info on that model at the Bendix/King Web site..... I find a SkyMap IIIC ? *********** Last question.. Are the Garmin GNS 430/530 only available for "Autorized Dealer Instalation.." ? I was told that by Aircreaft Spruce.. Sorry No archive. _________________________ Al Karpinski RV-8 Jordan NY .. Snow Tomorrow ! -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Stein Bruch Subject: RE: RV-List: Picking a GPS for VRF Hi Al, I used a Skyforce IIICe, which is basically the same unit as the KMD-150(MFD)-not sure about a "MDF-150", but a lot less money. Take a look at my panel and you can see it installed @ http://www.steinair.com It also has the RS232 outputs, as do most all units now including handhelds. Cheers, Stein Bruch RV6, Minneapolis Flying!!!! Have been looking at panel mounted GPS display units for VFR use....(limited panel space at 5" high max) Garmin, Apollo, Bendix/King It looks to me that the Bendix/King MDF-150 (with built in GPS receiver) @ $2800 give the most Bang for the Buck Quick Comments ? + or - about the Bendix ? Other makes/models you out there would consider.. ? Keeping the space requirements and $$ in the same range ? and available for owner installation. ********************** Then.. As I see it... I can use the output from the MDF 150.. Which is RS232.. To drive a future Trutrak DFC-200 which has GPss capability Nice.. _________________________ Al Karpinski RV-8.. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 15, 2002
From: rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Fw: RV4-List: Cracked Engine Mount Weldments
Yes, they do, unless you build it with .040 fuselage sides to begin with...check for cracks at the lower corners of the firewall below the ldg gear attch points on your annual... RR --- "C. Rabaut" wrote: > --> RV4-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" > > > In addition to all that Gene listed below... RV-4's > firewalls have a > tendency to buckle. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Gene Smith <esmith6(at)satx.rr.com> > To: rv4-list > Subject: RV4-List: Cracked Engine Mount Weldments > > > > --> RV4-List message posted by: "Gene Smith" > > > > > JKL Greg, > > This is probably all wrong, but something for > all of us to think > about......you wrote, "cracks in the motor mount > around the lower and middle > weldments next to the firewall area. I had gussets > welded to this mount and > it should be stronger than ever." > > I might suggest that welding the mounts may > have caused the "temper" > to be changed either softer or harder, which could > cause excess movement, or > not enough, which possibly could cause the skin in > that area to buckle. For > a critical area such as the engine mounts, I don't > think I would let anyone > weld them unless they were a Certified Aircraft > Welder, because that heat > has to be perfect for that type of metal. > > There is one other thing to think > about......If there were no hard > landings, maybe crosswinds during landing or takeoff > could be responsible. > Crosswinds can cause incredible side loads and > torsion on all aspects of our > landing gear system and this is transferred > throughout the entire attached > area of the fuselage......take a look at your tires > after a good bout with a > crosswind, and think about all the rudder "kicking" > that took place to just > stay on the runway..........CHEERS!!!!!! jK > > > > > > > > Contributions of > any other form > > latest messages. > other List members. > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare > http://www.matronics.com/search > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > > > > Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More http://faith.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 15, 2002
From: rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV4-List: Cracked Engine Mount Weldments
Amen on the rough strip. Mine is 900' long and rough. No mount cracks yet, but my firewall has hairline cracks below the mounts... Rob Ray --- Richard Bibb wrote: > --> RV4-List message posted by: "Richard Bibb" > > > Operation from rough field can add to the stress. > As for crosswind > landings - work on technique - you ought to ba able > to touch down one wing > low if necessary to avoid landing in a crab with > resulting big swerve/side > loads.... > > Richard > RV-4 N144KT ( Rebuilding and installing new canopy) > > > > Contributions of > any other form > > latest messages. > other List members. > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare > http://www.matronics.com/search > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > > > > Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More http://faith.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us>
Subject: Picking a GPS for VRF
Date: Oct 15, 2002
Al, I have the Skymap IIIC and my hangar mates have the KMD-150. They work the same and both are excellent choices. The KMD-150 is easier to panel mount and can drive the auto pilot, and cost more. These are the easiest GPS's to use and are readable in sunlight. The only better choices, IMHO, cost much more; for example the MX-20, Garmin 430 or 530. Ken Harrill RV-6, 98 hours in five months Columbia, SC Have been looking at panel mounted GPS display units for VFR use....(limited panel space at 5" high max) Garmin, Apollo, Bendix/King It looks to me that the Bendix/King MDF-150 (with built in GPS receiver) @ $2800 give the most Bang for the Buck Quick Comments ? + or - about the Bendix ? Other makes/models you out there would consider.. ? Keeping the space requirements and $$ in the same range ? and available for owner installation. ********************** Then.. As I see it... I can use the output from the MDF 150.. Which is RS232.. To drive a future Trutrak DFC-200 which has GPss capability Nice.. _________________________ Al Karpinski RV-8.. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <karpinski(at)baldcom.net>
"Rv-List(at)Matronics. Com"
Subject: RE: King GPS.. More !
Date: Oct 15, 2002
Clear Day Thanks for the feedback.. :> !! ***************************************************************** I called Bendix and asked a few questions.. Yep.. same units Skymap IIIC and KMD-150 .. Except... No "Nonglare" coating on Skymap.. (OK. I can live with that...) As you say....KMD has lighted buttons.. !! :> !! But... Skymap can not "Directly Drive" Autopilot.. "But can with an aftermarket black box.?. not up on it.?? . but I guess another $500 black box..?? ) Other costs they said.. with Skymap.. You will want a $310 external low profile antenna.. If you rack mount add another $250 for panel mount.. So... $600 added on the $1.8K base cost... and you are at $2.4K for Skymap.. Installed.... But can take it with you.. Maybe $500?? more for RS232 black box converter if an autopilot is used... so $2.9K $2.8K for KMD-150 .. and you can drive an autopilot directly ... But it stays in the plane.. (I expect that we all will be in our own plane 99.997% of the time) ********************************************************** The wisdom of Solomon is needed here ! Skymap.. 150.?. Skymap.. 150..?? Skymap.. 150..??? Skymap.. 150.. ????... 150 ! :> No Archive... _________________________ Al Karpinski -----Original Message----- From: Stein Bruch [mailto:stein(at)steinair.com] Sent: Tuesday, October 15, 2002 4:53 PM To: karpinski(at)baldcom.net Subject: RE: King GPS.. Hi Al, As you've noticed, they are in fact the same units, except for a couple of things. Physically the screen, menue, etc.. are the exact same. The only difference in the KMD is the panel mounting, and a few options like lighted keypad buttons. The big benefit to the skymap is it can also be panel mounted, like I did, and with a quick push it pops out for you to take it along wherever you desire. I'm one who just like the BIG maps, and the color topography is great. My unit is working flawlessly, and now that I've flown with it I like it even more. Good luck and happy building, Stein. -----Original Message----- From: karpinski(at)baldcom.net [mailto:karpinski(at)baldcom.net] Sent: Tuesday, October 15, 2002 4:04 PM To: stein(at)steinair.com Subject: King GPS.. Just thought I would bother you off line... It looks like the KMD-15 and the SkyMap IIIC are the same ? The Skymap is $1.7K and the KMD150 is $ 2.8K saving $1K and having a Portable !! I will make a call to Bendix/King to see.. but it sure looks that way... Thanks.. _________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 15, 2002
From: "Richard V. Reynolds" <rvreynolds(at)macs.net>
czech-list(at)matronics.com, europa-list(at)matronics.com, ez-list(at)matronics.com, glasair-list(at)matronics.com, homebuilt-list(at)matronics.com, kolb-list(at)matronics.com, kr-list(at)matronics.com, lancair-list(at)matronics.com, pelican-list(at)matronics.com, pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com, piper-list(at)matronics.com, pitts-list(at)matronics.com, rocket-list(at)matronics.com, rv4-list(at)matronics.com, rv6-list(at)matronics.com, rv7-list(at)matronics.com, rv8-list(at)matronics.com, sonerai-list(at)matronics.com, tailwind-list(at)matronics.com, ultralight-list(at)matronics.com, warbird-list(at)matronics.com, yak-list(at)matronics.com, zenith-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: EAA Chapter 339 Fall Fly-In
EAA Chapter 339 Fall Fly-In Saturday, October 19, 2002, Hampton Roads Exec (PVG), Virginia, 9AM till 7PM Hampton Roads Exec (PVG) is 13.5nm SW of Norfolk, Virginia (253 radial (ORF) AWOS 118.375 CTAF 123.0 The weather will really be a perfect Virginia fall day! Aircraft parking is off taxiway between Rwy 23 and T-Hangars East of Airport Terminal Schedule of Events Fly-In Begins 9AM Food all Day 10AM - 3PM Poker Run (Walk Around Field) Project Visits on Field Aircraft Judging 11AM - 3PM, All Categories, Antiques, Classics, Homebuilts, Warbirds Social Hour 4PM Dinner 5PM - 7PM, BBQ Sandwiches, Chicken, Drinks Local motels/hotels are available For More Information Frank Toy 757-460-3680 ftoy(at)att.net Richard Reynolds 757-627-8743 rvreynolds(at)macs.net EAA Chapter 339 http://home.earthlink.net/~avyator/ Hampton Roads Exec Airport http://www.hamptonroadsexecutiveairport.com/index.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net>
Subject: RV art works
Date: Oct 15, 2002
Listers, Would you like a portrait of your very own RV? A very nice, quiet spoken gentleman named George Webb paints aircraft on consignment. He is an Retired Air Force photographer that has an undying love for aviation and painting aircraft. He is a very highly skilled and creative artist. Some of his works can be viewed at: http://www.hambletongalleries.com/dynamic/Artwork/PublicDisplay_7_226_RV6.htm http://www.hambletongalleries.com/dynamic/artists/WebbGeorge_public.htm I have known George for some years and I'm pleased to see his beautiful works receiving recognition. He lives here in Kelowna BC.Canada he can be contacted at by phone at (250) 765-4481 I offer this information without expectation of any type of financial reward. Jim in Kelowna ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 15, 2002
From: rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV4-List: EAA Chapter 339 Fall Fly-In
I might just make it! RR --- "Richard V. Reynolds" wrote: > --> RV4-List message posted by: "Richard V. > Reynolds" > > EAA Chapter 339 Fall Fly-In > > Saturday, October 19, 2002, Hampton Roads Exec > (PVG), Virginia, 9AM till > 7PM > Hampton Roads Exec (PVG) is 13.5nm SW of Norfolk, > Virginia (253 radial > (ORF) > AWOS 118.375 > CTAF 123.0 > > The weather will really be a perfect Virginia fall > day! > > Aircraft parking is off taxiway between Rwy 23 and > T-Hangars East of > Airport Terminal > > Schedule of Events > Fly-In Begins 9AM > Food all Day 10AM - 3PM > Poker Run (Walk Around Field) > Project Visits on Field > Aircraft Judging 11AM - 3PM, All Categories, > Antiques, Classics, > Homebuilts, Warbirds > Social Hour 4PM > Dinner 5PM - 7PM, BBQ Sandwiches, Chicken, Drinks > > Local motels/hotels are available > For More Information > > Frank Toy 757-460-3680 > ftoy(at)att.net > Richard Reynolds 757-627-8743 > rvreynolds(at)macs.net > EAA Chapter 339 > http://home.earthlink.net/~avyator/ > Hampton Roads Exec Airport > http://www.hamptonroadsexecutiveairport.com/index.html > > > > Contributions of > any other form > > latest messages. > other List members. > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare > http://www.matronics.com/search > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > > > > Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More http://faith.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com>
Subject: Re: PDA-based product opinions
Date: Oct 15, 2002
I have had the Anywhere Map and flew with it to OSH from Colorado this summer, and around the state for the past year. I find it a very nice unit. I like the 28-day updates of the data base over the internet for (I believe I paid) $115 for a year...also daily SFR updates if you want them for free. The tech support seems quite good, and they have a user web site where a lot of good info and questions come up...rather like the RV Matronics net for AWM users. I compare the AWM against my Lowrance (which runs my Nav Aid wing leveler in flight) and they compare exactly. Overall I am a happy camper with the AWM FWIW John at Salida, CO ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 15, 2002
From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Electric/Electric or Manual Trim
Your experience is opposite of mine I had manual and would not go back to it for anything. I love the electric trim I retro fit and I do not have a governor. I have the rocker switch mounted in my stick grip and just bump it with my thumb, it works great. Maybe the new version of the manual trim is better than what we had when I built my RV-6. There was just to much slop in the cable where it made the bend to the console and I had to trim constantly. Jerry Paul Besing wrote: > > > I had the electric, and would definately go manual next time. I had a > matronics govenor which helped, but it still doesn't give that seat of the > pants feel that a manual trim knob does. I felt myself chasing the trim > back and forth, instead of making minute twists very slowly with the manual > trim knob on the 6A that I am flying now. > > More simple, and nothing to fail. Hands down I would go manual this time. > And, I'm kind of a gadget geek, and normally would go for the electric stuff > if I could, but not for the trim. > > Paul Besing > RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10) > http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing > Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software > http://www.kitlog.com > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> > To: > Subject: Re: RV-List: Electric/Electric or Manual Trim > > > > > > I am flying a 6-A now and am thinking of starting a 9-A soon I will be > > going > > > with a manual trim the next time. The electric is to fast in cruise > > > configuration. > > > > > > > What about a two speed switch on the elevator trim? Low speed at cruise > and > > reg speed when the flaps are down? Lots of info in the archives on how to > do > > this. It has been a hot topic on this list several times in the last few > > years. Many RV drivers have the same complaint as you about the trim being > > to touchy at cruise. > > > > Norman Hunger > > RV6A Delta BC > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: PDA-based product opinions
Date: Oct 15, 2002
There's a new unit similar to the anywhere map in that it uses a pda for display. I saw it at Copperstate and they gave me a demo disk to try out comparing it to anywhere map which I currently use. It's a bit early but so far I'm impressed. Try PCAvionics at www.mountainscope.com for a looksee. Albert Gardner, Yuma, AZ RV-9A: N872RV Working on panel ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Subject: Re: Electric/Electric or Manual Trim
Date: Oct 15, 2002
It must be. This is on a new airplane. It is very tight, no slop whatsover. Just a hair twist of the knob, and you got it. I had the electric trim on my hat switch, as well, but just had to always tweak it. Paul Besing RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10) http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software http://www.kitlog.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jerry Springer" <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: Electric/Electric or Manual Trim > > Your experience is opposite of mine I had manual and would not go back to > it for anything. I love the electric trim I retro fit and I do not have a > governor. I have the rocker switch mounted in my stick grip and just bump it > with my thumb, it works great. Maybe the new version of the manual trim > is better than what we had when I built my RV-6. There was just to much slop > in the cable where it made the bend to the console and I had to trim constantly. > > Jerry > > Paul Besing wrote: > > > > > > I had the electric, and would definately go manual next time. I had a > > matronics govenor which helped, but it still doesn't give that seat of the > > pants feel that a manual trim knob does. I felt myself chasing the trim > > back and forth, instead of making minute twists very slowly with the manual > > trim knob on the 6A that I am flying now. > > > > More simple, and nothing to fail. Hands down I would go manual this time. > > And, I'm kind of a gadget geek, and normally would go for the electric stuff > > if I could, but not for the trim. > > > > Paul Besing > > RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10) > > http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing > > Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software > > http://www.kitlog.com > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> > > To: > > Subject: Re: RV-List: Electric/Electric or Manual Trim > > > > > > > > > I am flying a 6-A now and am thinking of starting a 9-A soon I will be > > > going > > > > with a manual trim the next time. The electric is to fast in cruise > > > > configuration. > > > > > > > > > > What about a two speed switch on the elevator trim? Low speed at cruise > > and > > > reg speed when the flaps are down? Lots of info in the archives on how to > > do > > > this. It has been a hot topic on this list several times in the last few > > > years. Many RV drivers have the same complaint as you about the trim being > > > to touchy at cruise. > > > > > > Norman Hunger > > > RV6A Delta BC > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 15, 2002
Subject: Re: Electric/Electric or Manual Trim
From: Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net>
This is a tough one. Most people seem to greatly prefer the manual trim. If you don't mind the big ugly knob and extra weight, go for it, it does have a nice feel. I was willing to pay extra to get rid of it. When I let builders fly my plane and don't give them any warning, they always over control the electric trim because they invariably hold down the rocker switch and wait for the stick to move. The plane goes into a dive or climb and the chase is on. On the other hand when I tell them to "blip blip blip" the trim switch in very short bursts they quickly get the hang of it. The faster you are going, the shorter the blips. This is the way I always trimmed in the Air Force planes I flew. Like Jerry , I greatly prefer the electric elevator trim. It is a lighter system, and frees up some good real estate between the seats. Very reliable and trouble free. My observation in that almost all who have flown with "stick" or yoke trim before, will adapt quickly to the electric trim. Those who have flown only with a trim wheel or lever prefer the manual because it works more like they are used to, and it does have a "feel" to it which greatly reduces the chance of over controlling. Probably this is because if you go too far on the manual you can instantly put it back where it was. With the electric, its former position is lost in a sea of electrons somewhere and can never be found again. The manual system is also cheaper. There is also the fear of "runaway trim" which seems to pervade the RV list guys. This is a real scary problem especially on airplanes with stabilizer trim and limited elevator control. Runaway trim could eat your lunch in a real hurry in a B-52. Personally I don't see it as a big problem on the RV, but that is just one man's opinion. I do however have a pull able circuit breaker for it. My opinion, having flown both, is they both are excellent systems. I don't think the shortcomings or strengths of either system are show stoppers. There is nothing dumb, stupid or dangerous about either. Go for the one you prefer. Go fly with both, and decide. Personally I think the electric is a far better system. Most folks seem to prefer the heavy ugly manual system. I understand that . A lot of those are the same old fashioned folks who prefer tail wheels. Go figure. I have a governor but have not touched it in 1075 hours of flying. Denis > From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> > Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 18:24:11 -0700 > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: Electric/Electric or Manual Trim > > > Your experience is opposite of mine I had manual and would not go back to > it for anything. I love the electric trim I retro fit and I do not have a > governor. I have the rocker switch mounted in my stick grip and just bump it > with my thumb, it works great. Maybe the new version of the manual trim > is better than what we had when I built my RV-6. There was just to much slop > in the cable where it made the bend to the console and I had to trim > constantly. > > Jerry > > Paul Besing wrote: >> >> >> I had the electric, and would definately go manual next time. I had a >> matronics govenor which helped, but it still doesn't give that seat of the >> pants feel that a manual trim knob does. I felt myself chasing the trim >> back and forth, instead of making minute twists very slowly with the manual >> trim knob on the 6A that I am flying now. >> >> More simple, and nothing to fail. Hands down I would go manual this time. >> And, I'm kind of a gadget geek, and normally would go for the electric stuff >> if I could, but not for the trim. >> >> Paul Besing >> RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10) >> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing >> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software >> http://www.kitlog.com >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> >> To: >> Subject: Re: RV-List: Electric/Electric or Manual Trim >> >>> >>>> I am flying a 6-A now and am thinking of starting a 9-A soon I will be >>> going >>>> with a manual trim the next time. The electric is to fast in cruise >>>> configuration. >>>> >>> >>> What about a two speed switch on the elevator trim? Low speed at cruise >> and >>> reg speed when the flaps are down? Lots of info in the archives on how to >> do >>> this. It has been a hot topic on this list several times in the last few >>> years. Many RV drivers have the same complaint as you about the trim being >>> to touchy at cruise. >>> >>> Norman Hunger >>> RV6A Delta BC >>> >>> > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: 664SB 3 Hour Report (LONG)!
Date: Oct 15, 2002
Hi All, I just got back from another wonderful flight in my NEW RV6, and as promised I'm posting a "few" of my first impressions. I'll try to keep it short, but there's just so much to tell, even in such a short amount of time! It's been pretty windy here in Minneapolis so I haven't yet got to experience this thing on a crystal clear, perfectly calm day, but I'm waiting. 1...TAKEOFFS. Not much to say, the plane is a rocket ship! Tail up, and I'm flying before I know it. Good dose of right rudder required, but not a huge deal. Climb at 110-120 produces 1500-2000' climb. 2...CRUISE. What else can I say. The thing is AWESOME. By the way of some miracle and the grace of God, I seem to have built a straight airplane. It flies hands off and the ball is perfectly centered, no heavy wing either. Even though I have NOT yet installed the gear leg fairings or wheel pants, I can easily overspeed the engine O-360/85"sensenich - at 8,000 feet (2700+RPM), had to pull the throttle to keep the RPM's down to 2700, 183mph-Unverified (only used a quick 4 point directional "box" flight on cardinal headings to extrapolate), more to come in progressive flights. FYI, I climbed above the clouds (8500') today, and it was perfectly smooth and beautiful! 3...INSTRUMENTS. My IK-2000 Engine Monitor is a DREAM. All CHT's, EGT's, Airspeed, Fuel flow, Fuel Level RPM, Oil press/Temp, Volts, Fuel pressure, OAT, density altitude, Pressure Altitude, Manifold Pressure, etc.. are all easy to watch, since ALL I have to look for is the green or red bars. ALL at a QUICK SCAN/GLANCE, no watching the instruments constantly. Today the only red I had was oil temp, seems I need to block off the oil cooler (30 degree F OAT), hard to get the oil temps above 170-will fix that tomorrow. The GPS (Skymapp IIIc), is also a dream, since my plane lives under class B, its nice to see when I clear each ring and can quickly climb to the next level (it's an RV after all). My wingtip NAV(right wing) is unbelievable, works better than anything I've seen. The wintip comm (left wing) is another story, Once I am a couple thousand feet high, it seems to work fine, but low down, I can tell that it definately suffers when the wing is directly away from an airport. I've already decided to install a whip on the belly, maybe this weekend or next (I know, it's a sin to dirty up this perfectly clean airplane and lose a knot or two, but what the heck)! 4...STALLS. I guess they are typical RV, but since these are my first exposure to them, I'll report on them anyway. Power off stalls (Heavily Loaded) are happening clean around 50-52mph, dirty 56-58mph. Stalls are abrupt, with a very clean break, and VERY LITTLE buffet or warning. Straight forward when clean, but a slight right wing drop when dirty, however nothing unsettling. 5...LANDINGS. Keeping in mind that I'm landing on a short (1800'x40') grass runway with trees at one end and 7' tall corn on both sides, I'm doing surprisingly well. Since I don't have the luxury of a long "Lear Jet" type pattern, I've been using 90 in the pattern, 80 on final, and slowing over the fence. I add a bit of power in the flare, and VouiLa, I get a decent landing! I landed at another aiport today on their 1500' strip in a slight crosswind. I wish I had a camera, because it was a sqeaker! I've also found out the rudder is rather stiff, but that's only compared to the rest of the controls, which are smooth as silk. Side slips are fun and a great help, was able to slow from 100 to landing on one rather unsightly approach today with a good hefty slip all the way to the ground! I'm doing all three pointers for now, maybe later I'll practice some wheel landing at a strip that's a bit longer, wider, and smoother. 6...OVERALL. Did I mention this plane is AWESOME! I'll fill in more details as I get more flights on the plane. I need to do LOTS of flying the numbers and getting them recorded. If you have any specific questions that I forgot, please contact me off list. Also if you have a cure for this grin that won't go away, let me know! Thanks again to all who have helped me along the way, I can definately say I wouldn't have near the plane I do without the support of this list. Cheers, Stein Bruch RV6, Minneapolis FLYING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! http://www.steinair.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 16, 2002
Subject: Re: RV4-List: URGENT BUSINESS PROPOSAL
In a message dated 10/15/2002 8:26:07 PM Pacific Daylight Time, chukwuebuka02uc(at)yahoo.com writes: > --> RV4-List message posted by: "DR.EBUKA D AGUSON" < > chukwuebuka02uc(at)yahoo.com> > > DR.EBUKA D AGUSON > > FEDERAL MINISTRY OF PETROLUEM RESOURCES(F.M.P.R) > > LAGOS NIGERIA. > > ATTN:SIR, > > REQUEST FOR ASSISTANCE- STRICTLY CONFIDENTIAL > > I am Dr EBUKA AGUSON, an accountant in the Ministry of > petroleum Resources (MPR) and a member of a > three-man Tender Board in charge of contract review > and payment approvals. I came to know of you in my > search for a reliable person to handle a very > confidential transaction that involves the transfer of > a huge sum of money to a foreign account. It may > sound strange but exercise patience and read on. > > There were series of contracts executed by a > consortium Multinational in the Oil industry in favor > of Ministry of Petroleum Resources among which were: > > 1. The extension of pipeline network within Nigeria > for crude oil, Down stream products distribution and > subsequent evacuation- US$ 195 Million. > > 2. Contract for the Turn Around Maintenance (TAM) of > the various refineries in the country~ US$ 152 > Million. > > 3. The construction of storage tanks for petroleum > products (Depots) US$240 Million. > > The original values of this contract were deliberately > over invoiced to the sum of US $35.5million American > Dollars which has now been approved and is now ready > to be transferred being that the companies > that actually executed these contracts has been fully > paid and project officially commissioned. > consequently, my colleagues and I are willing to > transfer the total amount to your account for > subsequent disbursement since we are Civil Servant > and are prohibited by the Code of Conduct Bureau > (Civil Servant Laws) from opening operating foreign > account in our names. Needless to say, the trust posed > on you at this juncture is enormous. In return, we > have agreed to offer you 30% of the transferred sum > while 10% shall be set aside for accidental expenses > (Internal & External) between the parties in the > course of the transfer. We will mandate you to draw > up an investment plan for us of which you will > control since we cannot bring our shares back to > Nigeria. We are very interested in investing in real > estate in your country. You must however note that > this transaction is subjected to the following terms > and conditions: > > 1. Our conviction of your transparent honesty and > diligence. > > 2. That you would treat this transaction with utmost > secrecy and confidentiality because of the > circumstances we now find ourselves. > > 3. That the funds would be transferred to an account > over which you have absolute control. Modalities > have been worked out at the highest level of the > presidency at the Central Bank of Nigeria for the > immediate transfer of the funds within 14 working > days, subject to your satisfaction of the above stated > terms. Our assurance is that your role is 100% risk > free. To accord this transaction, the legality it > deserves and for mutual security of the parties > involved and the funds, the whole approval procedures > will be officially and legally processed with your > name or the name of your company you may nominate > as the bonafide beneficiary. Also, be informed that > our main reason of contacting you is for the obvious > reason that we will want to invest these funds in the > real estate. It is our believe that you can be of > immense help in this regards. > > Kindly expedite action so as to enable us include this > transaction into this batch as payment to foreign > contractors is usually carried out on quarterly > basis. > > > Best regards, > > DR.EBUKA D AGUSON > > Hey I am transparently honest....Sure, hot damm....where do I sign up?.....who can I send all my money to? I can take my net worth plus my kids college fund, cash in my 401K, barrow some cash from my sister, fly every other weekend instead of every week, wow! what a deal! This is the best internet offer yet! This must be a true deal because the offer is from a real Doctor with one hell of a title on the RV list...I am so excited now I might be able to really afford my RV-4 and be just like all those guys I fly with, they all have endless amounts of cash and multiple paid off credit cards, this is triple bitchen man! I am ready!...........................lets see! ..........I have $ 139.42 lets get started. I do have just one question.......................Do you need all of that at once or can I make payments. Tim Barnes Meangreen RV-4 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-8 Upper Gear Leg Fairing
Date: Oct 16, 2002
OK Mike, How about going to an auto parts store and getting some double sided tape. The real good stuff is used for holding on trim and body moulding. It is a thin stiff foam with major sticking properties and good to be out in weather. Run it along the edges where the fairing meets the fuse skin. Maybe it will help. Norman Hunger RV6A Delta BC > > Norman; > > I used between 3 and 4 layers of 8 oz cloth. The forward part is > thicker. They are quite stiff now. There really isn't room for any ribs > or stiffeners. > > Mike Robbins RV8 > > > > > >Wouldn't it be worth the effort to stiffen the fairings with some kind of > >ribbing on the inside? > >How many layers thick did you make them? > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 16, 2002
From: "Richard V. Reynolds" <rvreynolds(at)macs.net>
Subject: Re: RV4-List: EAA Chapter 339 Fall Fly-In
The allure of perfect Virginia weather must have done it. Now can we deliver?? Richard Reynolds ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Starn" <jhstarn(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV4-List: URGENT BUSINESS PROPOSAL
Date: Oct 16, 2002
It sounds like ole meangreen has shoved his tongue so far into his cheek that it's wrapped about his eye teeth so he can't see what he's saying. Do Not Archive I've gotten at least three slightly differant offers on the same subject (spelled "SCAM") KABONG ----- Original Message ----- From: <MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com> Subject: RV-List: Re: RV4-List: URGENT BUSINESS PROPOSAL > > > --> RV4-List message posted by: "DR.EBUKA D AGUSON" < > > chukwuebuka02uc(at)yahoo.com> > > > > DR.EBUKA D AGUSON > > > > FEDERAL MINISTRY OF PETROLUEM RESOURCES(F.M.P.R) > > > > LAGOS NIGERIA. > > Hey I am transparently honest....Sure, hot damm....where do I sign > up?.....who can I send all my money to? I can take my net worth plus my kids > college fund, cash in my 401K, barrow some cash from my sister, fly every > other weekend instead of every week, wow! what a deal! This is the best > internet offer yet! This must be a true deal because the offer is from a real > Doctor with one hell of a title on the RV list...I am so excited now I might > be able to really afford my RV-4 and be just like all those guys I fly with, > they all have endless amounts of cash and multiple paid off credit cards, > this is triple bitchen man! I am ready!...........................lets see! > ..........I have $ 139.42 lets get started. I do have just one > question.......................Do you need all of that at once or can I make > payments. > > Tim Barnes > Meangreen RV-4 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Electric/Electric or Manual Trim
Date: Oct 16, 2002
I concur with Jerry, I had manual trim on my RV-4, found it to be too sloppy, converted to electric and now love it. Have the electric on my RV-6 too. I will admit a bias towards electric trim because that's what I fly at work, so to each his/her own, it's too bad you couldn't try both, though. Pat Hatch RV-4, N17PH, 700 hrs O-320, Hartzell C/S RV-6, N44PH, 30 hrs O-360, Hartzell C/S Vero Beach, FL ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jerry Springer" <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: Electric/Electric or Manual Trim > > Your experience is opposite of mine I had manual and would not go back to > it for anything. I love the electric trim I retro fit and I do not have a > governor. I have the rocker switch mounted in my stick grip and just bump it > with my thumb, it works great. Maybe the new version of the manual trim > is better than what we had when I built my RV-6. There was just to much slop > in the cable where it made the bend to the console and I had to trim constantly. > > Jerry > > Paul Besing wrote: > > > > > > I had the electric, and would definately go manual next time. I had a > > matronics govenor which helped, but it still doesn't give that seat of the > > pants feel that a manual trim knob does. I felt myself chasing the trim > > back and forth, instead of making minute twists very slowly with the manual > > trim knob on the 6A that I am flying now. > > > > More simple, and nothing to fail. Hands down I would go manual this time. > > And, I'm kind of a gadget geek, and normally would go for the electric stuff > > if I could, but not for the trim. > > > > Paul Besing > > RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10) > > http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing > > Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software > > http://www.kitlog.com > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> > > To: > > Subject: Re: RV-List: Electric/Electric or Manual Trim > > > > > > > > > I am flying a 6-A now and am thinking of starting a 9-A soon I will be > > > going > > > > with a manual trim the next time. The electric is to fast in cruise > > > > configuration. > > > > > > > > > > What about a two speed switch on the elevator trim? Low speed at cruise > > and > > > reg speed when the flaps are down? Lots of info in the archives on how to > > do > > > this. It has been a hot topic on this list several times in the last few > > > years. Many RV drivers have the same complaint as you about the trim being > > > to touchy at cruise. > > > > > > Norman Hunger > > > RV6A Delta BC > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 16, 2002
Subject: Re: 664SB 3 Hour Report (LONG)!
In a message dated 10/15/2002 9:47:15 PM Pacific Daylight Time, stein(at)steinair.com writes: > Power off stalls (Heavily > Loaded) are happening clean around 50-52mph, dirty 56-58mph. Stein- Do you really mean to say that your stall with flaps is at a higher airspeed than without? If so, this could be a power source for perpetual motion. -GV (RV-6A N1GV 572hrs) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Craig Brenden" <brencotool(at)abq.com>
Subject: Re: RV6-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 10/15/02
Date: Oct 16, 2002
N29RV "By Faith" RV6-A 0-360 with Bendix Mags Recently I've been getting some jumps or spikes on my electric tach after the plane warms up (15 min after takeoff).I've got all my circuit breaker switches in a row and if the landing light, the nav lights, or the strobe lights are on, the tach starts to bounce up from a normal reading to about 300-400 rpm above normal and then back to normal. Does anyone know of a line filter or something that might help avoid the interference the tach is receiving? Craig ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Garrett" <rgarrett7(at)attbi.com>
Subject: Electric/Electric or Manual Trim
Date: Oct 16, 2002
I bought the Gretz electric trim for my 6A. It is really the MAC / Ray Allen servo with a special extension that goes from the servo to the trim tab. Mounting it was easy and it seems to work fine after 30 hours flying. It does not come with the wire you will need to connect it to the trim switch and trim indicator, though Ray Allen sells the wire you will need ... it's about 5 or 6 small wires in one bundle. You will also need some kind of connectors unless you want to solder the whole thing into one complete unit. I used AMP connectors that I got from Mouser Electronics, though you could probably find something similar from any fairly reasonable electronics supply house. I have also used the manual trim on another 6A. To me, they both worked fine. You do have to be a little light on the touch in adjust the electric trim at cruise. Basically, you just "bleep" it with a quick touch. I was prepared to use the 2-speed governor, but I haven't had any need for it. You could always put it in later. I got used to the electric trim very quickly. I use trim a lot and I am picky about having it "hands off" so that it holds airspeed with no assist from me. I haven't had any problem doing that with the electric. So, I think you will be okay with either choice. Randy ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 16, 2002
From: rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV4-List: URGENT BUSINESS PROPOSAL
How do you spell, IMCLONE....What does this have to do with RV4's? RR --- "DR.EBUKA D AGUSON" wrote: > --> RV4-List message posted by: "DR.EBUKA D > AGUSON" > > DR.EBUKA D AGUSON > > FEDERAL MINISTRY OF PETROLUEM RESOURCES(F.M.P.R) > > LAGOS NIGERIA. > > ATTN:SIR, > > REQUEST FOR ASSISTANCE- > STRICTLY CONFIDENTIAL > > I am Dr EBUKA AGUSON, an accountant in the Ministry > of > petroleum Resources (MPR) and a member of a > three-man Tender Board in charge of contract review > and payment approvals. I came to know of you in my > search for a reliable person to handle a very > confidential transaction that involves the transfer > of > a huge sum of money to a foreign account. It may > sound strange but exercise patience and read on. > > There were series of contracts executed by a > consortium Multinational in the Oil industry in > favor > of Ministry of Petroleum Resources among which > were: > > 1. The extension of pipeline network within Nigeria > for crude oil, Down stream products distribution > and > subsequent evacuation- US$ 195 Million. > > 2. Contract for the Turn Around Maintenance (TAM) of > the various refineries in the country~ US$ 152 > Million. > > 3. The construction of storage tanks for petroleum > products (Depots) US$240 Million. > > The original values of this contract were > deliberately > over invoiced to the sum of US $35.5million > American > Dollars which has now been approved and is now > ready > to be transferred being that the companies > that actually executed these contracts has been > fully > paid and project officially commissioned. > consequently, my colleagues and I are willing to > transfer the total amount to your account for > subsequent disbursement since we are Civil Servant > and are prohibited by the Code of Conduct Bureau > (Civil Servant Laws) from opening operating foreign > account in our names. Needless to say, the trust > posed > on you at this juncture is enormous. In return, we > have agreed to offer you 30% of the transferred sum > while 10% shall be set aside for accidental > expenses > (Internal & External) between the parties in the > course of the transfer. We will mandate you to draw > up an investment plan for us of which you will > control since we cannot bring our shares back to > Nigeria. We are very interested in investing in real > estate in your country. You must however note that > this transaction is subjected to the following > terms > and conditions: > > 1. Our conviction of your transparent honesty and > diligence. > > 2. That you would treat this transaction with utmost > secrecy and confidentiality because of the > circumstances we now find ourselves. > > 3. That the funds would be transferred to an account > over which you have absolute control. Modalities > have been worked out at the highest level of the > presidency at the Central Bank of Nigeria for the > immediate transfer of the funds within 14 working > days, subject to your satisfaction of the above > stated > terms. Our assurance is that your role is 100% risk > free. To accord this transaction, the legality it > deserves and for mutual security of the parties > involved and the funds, the whole approval > procedures > will be officially and legally processed with your > name or the name of your company you may nominate > as the bonafide beneficiary. Also, be informed > that > our main reason of contacting you is for the > obvious > reason that we will want to invest these funds in > the > real estate. It is our believe that you can be of > immense help in this regards. > > Kindly expedite action so as to enable us include > this > transaction into this batch as payment to foreign > contractors is usually carried out on quarterly > basis. > > > Best regards, > > DR.EBUKA D AGUSON > > > > > > Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More http://faith.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 16, 2002
Subject: Re: Electric/Electric or Manual Trim
From: czechsix(at)juno.com
Ok I'll toss my opinion into the fray too: I'll weigh in with Jerry on this one...although my own RV isn't flying yet, I've flown quite a bit in two RV's that both use the manual trim. My main complaint is that the slop in the system results in more "hunting" for a trim equilibrium. I don't care for the big gnarly knob in the cockpit either, and it's heavier. I went with electric trim and have a speed reducer (governor) that will be activated by a microswitch when the flaps are up. I'm also planning a switch for trim power that could be used to kill power in the highly unlikely event of runaway trim...I've never heard of it happening in an RV but it's a reasonable and easy precaution. I would not allow failure modes to be a significant consideration in whether to use manual or electric trim. Remember a manual trim system is a mechanical device and it can fail too, although in different modes than electric trim. Best thing I can say about manual trim is it's cheaper and simpler. --Mark Navratil Cedar Rapids, Iowa RV-8A N2D canopy skirts (still...) From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: Electric/Electric or Manual Trim Your experience is opposite of mine I had manual and would not go back to it for anything. I love the electric trim I retro fit and I do not have a governor. I have the rocker switch mounted in my stick grip and just bump it with my thumb, it works great. Maybe the new version of the manual trim is better than what we had when I built my RV-6. There was just to much slop in the cable where it made the bend to the console and I had to trim constantly. Jerry Paul Besing wrote: > > > I had the electric, and would definately go manual next time. I had a > matronics govenor which helped, but it still doesn't give that seat of the > pants feel that a manual trim knob does. I felt myself chasing the trim > back and forth, instead of making minute twists very slowly with the manual > trim knob on the 6A that I am flying now. > > More simple, and nothing to fail. Hands down I would go manual this time. > And, I'm kind of a gadget geek, and normally would go for the electric stuff > if I could, but not for the trim. > > Paul Besing > RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10) > http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing > Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software > http://www.kitlog.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com>
Subject: Electric/Electric or Manual Trim
Date: Oct 16, 2002
Has anyone tried lengthening the arm on the trim tab so that more travel is required to move the trim tab? This would yield less travel over a given actuation time. Ed Cole RV6A N2169D Flying (manual trim) RV6A N 648RV Finishing > -----Original Message----- > From: Randy Garrett [SMTP:rgarrett7(at)attbi.com] > Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2002 10:27 AM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Electric/Electric or Manual Trim > > > I bought the Gretz electric trim for my 6A. It is really the MAC / Ray > Allen servo with a special extension that goes from the servo to the trim > tab. Mounting it was easy and it seems to work fine after 30 hours > flying. > It does not come with the wire you will need to connect it to the trim > switch and trim indicator, though Ray Allen sells the wire you will need > ... > it's about 5 or 6 small wires in one bundle. You will also need some kind > of connectors unless you want to solder the whole thing into one complete > unit. I used AMP connectors that I got from Mouser Electronics, though > you > could probably find something similar from any fairly reasonable > electronics > supply house. > > I have also used the manual trim on another 6A. To me, they both worked > fine. You do have to be a little light on the touch in adjust the > electric > trim at cruise. Basically, you just "bleep" it with a quick touch. I was > prepared to use the 2-speed governor, but I haven't had any need for it. > You could always put it in later. > > I got used to the electric trim very quickly. I use trim a lot and I am > picky about having it "hands off" so that it holds airspeed with no assist > from me. I haven't had any problem doing that with the electric. > > So, I think you will be okay with either choice. > > Randy > > > > > Maxim Home Page: http://www.maxim-ic.com Products Page: http://www.maxim-ic.com/MaximProducts/products.htm New Products: http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/new_products.cfm Datasheets: http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/l_datasheet3.cfm The information contained in this message is confidential and may be legally privileged. The message is intended solely for the addressee(s). If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, dissemination, or reproduction is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful. If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender by return e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Murphy, Richard James (Rick)" <rjmurphy1(at)lucent.com>
Subject: RE: RV4-List: URGENT BUSINESS PROPOSAL
Date: Oct 16, 2002
If you guys haven't seen this before it is a big time web scam. New twist on an aold sham. They just want to deposit a large sum of money into your bank account (of course they need the acct number)and you get to keep the interest. Cept when you go back to look at your balance, there is no money there, not theirs, not yours, nothing. They bomb the web with this message hoping to get 1 out of 1000 to respond. Best defense is to hit the delete key. A twist on this scheme is that they pose as the Aviation Minister in Charge of Disposal of Surplus Aircraft for East BumbDiddy and have 10 P51's (or somesuch) in the crate since 1951 to dispose of and need a US import rep. IF you put up the ($10,000) import bond, you get to (keep/have a share etc) in one airplane. Delete, Delete, Delete. Don't even answer these people back. Rick Murphy -----Original Message----- From: rob ray [mailto:smokyray(at)yahoo.com] Subject: Re: RV4-List: URGENT BUSINESS PROPOSAL --> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray How do you spell, IMCLONE....What does this have to do with RV4's? RR --- "DR.EBUKA D AGUSON" wrote: > --> RV4-List message posted by: "DR.EBUKA D > AGUSON" > > DR.EBUKA D AGUSON > > FEDERAL MINISTRY OF PETROLUEM RESOURCES(F.M.P.R) > > LAGOS NIGERIA. > > ATTN:SIR, > > REQUEST FOR ASSISTANCE- > STRICTLY CONFIDENTIAL > > I am Dr EBUKA AGUSON, an accountant in the Ministry > of > petroleum Resources (MPR) and a member of a > three-man Tender Board in charge of contract review > and payment approvals. I came to know of you in my > search for a reliable person to handle a very > confidential transaction that involves the transfer > of > a huge sum of money to a foreign account. It may > sound strange but exercise patience and read on. > > There were series of contracts executed by a > consortium Multinational in the Oil industry in > favor > of Ministry of Petroleum Resources among which > were: > > 1. The extension of pipeline network within Nigeria > for crude oil, Down stream products distribution > and > subsequent evacuation- US$ 195 Million. > > 2. Contract for the Turn Around Maintenance (TAM) of > the various refineries in the country~ US$ 152 > Million. > > 3. The construction of storage tanks for petroleum > products (Depots) US$240 Million. > > The original values of this contract were > deliberately > over invoiced to the sum of US $35.5million > American > Dollars which has now been approved and is now > ready > to be transferred being that the companies > that actually executed these contracts has been > fully > paid and project officially commissioned. > consequently, my colleagues and I are willing to > transfer the total amount to your account for > subsequent disbursement since we are Civil Servant > and are prohibited by the Code of Conduct Bureau > (Civil Servant Laws) from opening operating foreign > account in our names. Needless to say, the trust > posed > on you at this juncture is enormous. In return, we > have agreed to offer you 30% of the transferred sum > while 10% shall be set aside for accidental > expenses > (Internal & External) between the parties in the > course of the transfer. We will mandate you to draw > up an investment plan for us of which you will > control since we cannot bring our shares back to > Nigeria. We are very interested in investing in real > estate in your country. You must however note that > this transaction is subjected to the following > terms > and conditions: > > 1. Our conviction of your transparent honesty and > diligence. > > 2. That you would treat this transaction with utmost > secrecy and confidentiality because of the > circumstances we now find ourselves. > > 3. That the funds would be transferred to an account > over which you have absolute control. Modalities > have been worked out at the highest level of the > presidency at the Central Bank of Nigeria for the > immediate transfer of the funds within 14 working > days, subject to your satisfaction of the above > stated > terms. Our assurance is that your role is 100% risk > free. To accord this transaction, the legality it > deserves and for mutual security of the parties > involved and the funds, the whole approval > procedures > will be officially and legally processed with your > name or the name of your company you may nominate > as the bonafide beneficiary. Also, be informed > that > our main reason of contacting you is for the > obvious > reason that we will want to invest these funds in > the > real estate. It is our believe that you can be of > immense help in this regards. > > Kindly expedite action so as to enable us include > this > transaction into this batch as payment to foreign > contractors is usually carried out on quarterly > basis. > > > Best regards, > > DR.EBUKA D AGUSON > > > > > > Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More http://faith.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 16, 2002
From: rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV4-List: Cracked Engine Mount Weldments
Note: forwarded message attached. Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More http://faith.yahoo.com Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 19:18:11 -0500 From: arvil(at)bellsouth.net Subject: Re: Fwd: Re: RV4-List: Cracked Engine Mount Weldments Rob, under normal or even rough landings the mounts should not crack' The early engine mount brackets at the upper and lower corners were first fused welded by vans supplyer, by that I mean the to parts were layed togather and useing a heliarc welder heated so the metal would melt or fuse togather with no filler rod added this makes for a real perty weld and a week joint at the point where the two metals join togather , Vans has now went to a little thicker metal on the mount brackets and filler weld is added to the bracket as it is being welded, tho this has solved most of the cracking it has not stoped the mount brackets from being damaged from hard landings, to help reduce the damage from accruing angel gusets should be added two to each corner at 90 drgees to each other and a large washer on the inside of the mount bracket to help keep the bolt from dishing the mount face where the bolt go,s through the motor mount bracket ,fire wall and motor mount, I also recommen putting the bolt through the motor mount bracket from the inside so the threads are faceing forward and extend through the motor mount boss this keeps the threads from being in the location of the highest stress point and less likly to snap a bolt on a hard landing Arvil rob ray wrote: > > Note: forwarded message attached. > > __________________________________________________ > Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More > http://faith.yahoo.com > > > Subject: Re: RV4-List: Cracked Engine Mount Weldments > Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 19:06:26 -0500 > From: Greg Hunsicker <gh2538(at)cjnetworks.com> > Reply-To: rv4-list(at)matronics.com > To: rv4-list(at)matronics.com > > --> RV4-List message posted by: Greg Hunsicker > > I had the mount tig welded as per Vans directions. I do appreciate your > thoughts though on the subject. In my case I had a couple pretty hard > landings doing some very short field practice. For my sake I am glad > that my practice has been made perfect. > > Greg Hunsicker > > Gene Smith wrote: > > >--> RV4-List message posted by: "Gene Smith" > > > >JKL Greg, > > This is probably all wrong, but something for all of us to think about......you wrote, "cracks in the motor mount around the lower and middle weldments next to the firewall area. I had gussets welded to this mount and it should be stronger than ever." > > I might suggest that welding the mounts may have caused the "temper" to be changed either softer or harder, which could cause excess movement, or not enough, which possibly could cause the skin in that area to buckle. For a critical area such as the engine mounts, I don't think I would let anyone weld them unless they were a Certified Aircraft Welder, because that heat has to be perfect for that type of metal. > > There is one other thing to think about......If there were no hard landings, maybe crosswinds during landing or takeoff could be responsible. Crosswinds can cause incredible side loads and torsion on all aspects of our landing gear system and this is transferred throughout the entire attached area of the fuselage......take a look at your tires after a good bout with a crosswind, and think about all the rudder "kicking" that took place to just stay on the runway..........CHEERS!!!!!! jK > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net>
Subject: Re: PDA-based product opinions
Date: Oct 16, 2002
Todd, I'm building an RV-6 and not yet at the stage of buying and installing instruments, nav, com, etc. However, I am fascinated by the GPS & map technology. At Oshkosh in 2001 I visited the Anywhere Map booth (I think) and it all sounded great. That was before the iPaq & Palm Pilot revolution rolled into the flying arena big time. Back then I went over and looked at another booth for sources for a color multi-function display (MFD)/screen. Now folks are using the iPaq. Can you please give me a brief "block diagram description" of the iPaq + Anywhere Map system? I assume there is a hand held GPS connected to provide position data to the map software. Does any old hand held support such an interface? Is the interface a serial cable from gps to iPaq? I suppose "fact #1", the main driving factor in your case, is the iPaq screen is bigger than a typical "handheld gps"'s screen, so bigger is better. True? I suppose "fact #2" is that you can't get Anywhere Map's features in a gps, which is why you need a separate computer & screen (iPaq). True? What would be the next level of increased value above the iPaq - a larger dedicated MFD (bigger screen)? Are those things still in the $5000 range? If you buy the digital terrain database CD's, does the iPaq have enough memory to hold all or selected geographic portions of the CD's terrain data - so you can get the "out the front windscreen view" of terrain in front of the flight path? (where a line goes out and intersect any terrain higher than your current gps altitude)? David Carter ----- Original Message ----- From: "Todd Wenzel" <TWenzel@heartland-software.com> Subject: RE: RV-List: PDA-based product opinions <TWenzel@Heartland-Software.com> > > Hi Dan, > I'm using the AnywhereMap on my iPaq and absolutely love it!. In fact, I > plan on going with it, perhaps with a backup unit running an electronic > horizon, on my -8A. I may go with the weather option down the road a bit > when the -8A is flying. I have no experience with the NavGPS so I can't > comment on that. I have used a Garmin 295 on a club's C-172, and I can > honestly say the AnywhereMap is heads-and-shoulders above the 295 in > ease of use and functionality. Not to mention I can take it out of the > cockpit and use the iPaq as my primary schedule/contacts/notes/maps/etc. > organizer. Just my opinion... > > Todd Wenzel > Delafield, WI USA > RV-8AQB - Finish Kit (savin' for 1940's technology engine) > TWenzel@Heartland-Software.com > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Dan Checkoway [mailto:dan(at)rvproject.com] > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: PDA-based product opinions ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <karpinski(at)baldcom.net>
Subject: Best web sites for used avionics?
Date: Oct 16, 2002
Guys... Have any input for best sites for used avionics ?? Gyro's, Nav/GPS.. autopilots.. Al Karpinski Jordan NY RV-8 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "3 rotor" <rv8r300(at)attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Electric/Electric or Manual Trim
Date: Oct 16, 2002
I question whether a trim kill switch could be activated in time to be useful. I had my trim take off once, turns out I left a wire disconnected and it grounded against the frame allowing only down trim. By the time I figured out what was going on I had full down trim. I flew another 1/2 hr., landed, disconnected the trim cable and taped the tab in place for the return trip. Not really a big deal or worthy of further complexity IMHO. kevin -6A 800hrs > I'm also planning a switch for trim power that could be used to kill power in the highly unlikely event of runaway trim...I've never heard of it happening in an RV but it's a reasonable and easy precaution. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Picking a GPS for VRF
Date: Oct 16, 2002
Al, I'd recommend a Garmin 295. It's my understanding that it can feed the A/P. We mounted ours IN the glare shield (you can take a look at the pictures we posted on Matronics picture section that were posted last week. We found that the location does not impact visiblity and is sort of lkie a HUD. My experience has been that I much perfer to keep my head out of the cockpit. In addition, the 295 has an output that we will be using for the A/P. Good building, Chuck & Dave Rowbotham RV-8A >From: <karpinski(at)baldcom.net> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: RV-List: Picking a GPS for VRF Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 13:39:15 >-0400 > > >Have been looking at panel mounted GPS display units for VFR >use....(limited >panel space at 5" high max) > >Garmin, Apollo, Bendix/King > >It looks to me that the Bendix/King MDF-150 (with built in GPS receiver) >@ >$2800 give the most Bang for the Buck > >Quick Comments ? + or - about the Bendix ? > >Other makes/models you out there would consider.. ? > >Keeping the space requirements and $$ in the same range ? and available >for owner installation. > >********************** > >Then.. As I see it... I can use the output from the MDF 150.. Which is >RS232.. > >To drive a future Trutrak DFC-200 which has GPss capability Nice.. > >_________________________ > >Al Karpinski >RV-8.. > > Internet access plans that fit your lifestyle -- join MSN. http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/default.asp ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV4-List: URGENT BUSINESS PROPOSAL
Date: Oct 16, 2002
----- Original Message ----- From: rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> Subject: RV-List: Re: RV4-List: URGENT BUSINESS PROPOSAL > > How do you spell, IMCLONE....What does this have to do > with RV4's? > > RR > --- "DR.EBUKA D AGUSON" > wrote: > > --> RV4-List message posted by: "DR.EBUKA D > > AGUSON" > > > > DR.EBUKA D AGUSON > > > > FEDERAL MINISTRY OF PETROLUEM RESOURCES(F.M.P.R) > > > > LAGOS NIGERIA. > > > > ATTN:SIR, > > > > REQUEST FOR ASSISTANCE- > > STRICTLY CONFIDENTIAL > > > > I am Dr EBUKA AGUSON, an accountant in the Ministry > > of > > petroleum Resources (MPR) and a member of a > > three-man Tender Board in charge of contract review > > and payment approvals. I came to know of you in my > > search for a reliable person to handle a very > > confidential transaction that involves the transfer > > of > > a huge sum of money to a foreign account. It may > > sound strange but exercise patience and read on. > > > > There were series of contracts executed by a > > consortium Multinational in the Oil industry in > > favor > > of Ministry of Petroleum Resources among which > > were: > > > > 1. The extension of pipeline network within Nigeria > > for crude oil, Down stream products distribution > > and > > subsequent evacuation- US$ 195 Million. > > > > 2. Contract for the Turn Around Maintenance (TAM) of > > the various refineries in the country~ US$ 152 > > Million. > > > > 3. The construction of storage tanks for petroleum > > products (Depots) US$240 Million. > > > > The original values of this contract were > > deliberately > > over invoiced to the sum of US $35.5million > > American > > Dollars which has now been approved and is now > > ready > > to be transferred being that the companies > > that actually executed these contracts has been > > fully > > paid and project officially commissioned. > > consequently, my colleagues and I are willing to > > transfer the total amount to your account for > > subsequent disbursement since we are Civil Servant > > and are prohibited by the Code of Conduct Bureau > > (Civil Servant Laws) from opening operating foreign > > account in our names. Needless to say, the trust > > posed > > on you at this juncture is enormous. In return, we > > have agreed to offer you 30% of the transferred sum > > while 10% shall be set aside for accidental > > expenses > > (Internal & External) between the parties in the > > course of the transfer. We will mandate you to draw > > up an investment plan for us of which you will > > control since we cannot bring our shares back to > > Nigeria. We are very interested in investing in real > > estate in your country. You must however note that > > this transaction is subjected to the following > > terms > > and conditions: > > > > 1. Our conviction of your transparent honesty and > > diligence. > > > > 2. That you would treat this transaction with utmost > > secrecy and confidentiality because of the > > circumstances we now find ourselves. > > > > 3. That the funds would be transferred to an account > > over which you have absolute control. Modalities > > have been worked out at the highest level of the > > presidency at the Central Bank of Nigeria for the > > immediate transfer of the funds within 14 working > > days, subject to your satisfaction of the above > > stated > > terms. Our assurance is that your role is 100% risk > > free. To accord this transaction, the legality it > > deserves and for mutual security of the parties > > involved and the funds, the whole approval > > procedures > > will be officially and legally processed with your > > name or the name of your company you may nominate > > as the bonafide beneficiary. Also, be informed > > that > > our main reason of contacting you is for the > > obvious > > reason that we will want to invest these funds in > > the > > real estate. It is our believe that you can be of > > immense help in this regards. > > > > Kindly expedite action so as to enable us include > > this > > transaction into this batch as payment to foreign > > contractors is usually carried out on quarterly > > basis. > > > > > > Best regards, > > > > DR.EBUKA D AGUSON > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More > http://faith.yahoo.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 16, 2002
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: PDA-based product opinions
David Carter wrote: > > > Todd, > > I'm building an RV-6 and not yet at the stage of buying and installing > instruments, nav, com, etc. However, I am fascinated by the GPS & map > technology. At Oshkosh in 2001 I visited the Anywhere Map booth (I think) > and it all sounded great. That was before the iPaq & Palm Pilot revolution > rolled into the flying arena big time. Back then I went over and looked at > another booth for sources for a color multi-function display (MFD)/screen. > Now folks are using the iPaq. > > Can you please give me a brief "block diagram description" of the iPaq + > Anywhere Map system? I assume there is a hand held GPS connected to provide > position data to the map software. Does any old hand held support such an > interface? Is the interface a serial cable from gps to iPaq? > > I suppose "fact #1", the main driving factor in your case, is the iPaq > screen is bigger than a typical "handheld gps"'s screen, so bigger is > better. True? > > I suppose "fact #2" is that you can't get Anywhere Map's features in a gps, > which is why you need a separate computer & screen (iPaq). True? > > What would be the next level of increased value above the iPaq - a larger > dedicated MFD (bigger screen)? Are those things still in the $5000 range? > > If you buy the digital terrain database CD's, does the iPaq have enough > memory to hold all or selected geographic portions of the CD's terrain > data - so you can get the "out the front windscreen view" of terrain in > front of the flight path? (where a line goes out and intersect any terrain > higher than your current gps altitude)? > > David Carter > All these questions and much, much more are answered on the Control Vision website and in their user forum: http://www.controlvision.com http://www.controlvision.com/pages/awm_db.htm The AnywhereMap Users Forum archives are an invaluable source of info from folks who have installed the system in many different ways, and have worked through the various glitches inherent in new technology. Sam Buchanan ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 16, 2002
Subject: Re: RV4-List: URGENT BUSINESS PROPOSAL
In a message dated 10/16/2002 7:05:40 AM Pacific Daylight Time, jhstarn(at)earthlink.net writes: > > It sounds like ole meangreen has shoved his tongue so far into his cheek > that it's wrapped about his eye teeth so he can't see what he's saying. > Do > Not Archive I've gotten at least three slightly differant offers on > the same subject (spelled "SCAM") KABONG > ----- Original Message ----- > From: <MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com> > To: > Subject: RV-List: Re: RV4-List: URGENT BUSINESS PROPOSAL > Ok now you can talk all you want about me but leave Meangreen out of this, she is just setting pretty in a hangar just waiting for me to PUSH the button ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 16, 2002
Subject: Re: RV4-List: URGENT BUSINESS PROPOSAL
In a message dated 10/16/2002 7:05:40 AM Pacific Daylight Time, jhstarn(at)earthlink.net writes: > It sounds like ole meangreen has shoved his tongue so far into his cheek > that it's wrapped about his eye teeth so he can't see what he's saying. > Do > Not Archive I've gotten at least three slightly differant offers on > the same subject (spelled "SCAM") KABONG > ----- Original Message ----- > From: <MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com> > To: > Subject: RV-List: Re: RV4-List: URGENT BUSINESS PROPOSAL > Just for the record I know this is a bunch of BS and I too hate to see this kind of crap hit the list but last night I was feeling like being a smart ass. The only part of my comment that was true was the $139.42. Thats good for 6 hours of awsome flying. Tim Barnes Meangreen RV-4 ________________________________________________________________________________ Original-Encoded-Information-Types: IA5-Text
Date: Oct 16, 2002
From: Jim Truitt <Jim.Truitt(at)usdoj.gov>
Subject: RV-List Digest: Picking a GPS for VFR
I bought the KMD 150 at Oshkosh this past summer, but I haven't flown with it (still building). I got a very good price through American Avionics ($2750.00). I, too, was looking at the Skymap, mainly because it was cheaper, with very similar features. But I was told that the mounting rack for the Skymap was extra (included with the KMD 150) and that a separate inteface cable was needed with the Skymap to use it with a Nav-aid (not needed with the KMD). So, in the end there wasn't as much price difference between the two when you included the installation. The difference was still several hundred dollars, but, to me, there wasn't enough difference to justify buying a unit that is really intended as a handheld when I wanted a panel mount. Depends on your outlook (and wallet) I guess. Jim Truitt RV-8A (working) N627TT Reserved ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil(at)petrasoft.net>
Subject: Re: Electric/Electric or Manual Trim
Date: Oct 16, 2002
Okay I've got one for you guys that are flying the electric trim. I am working on a microcontroller based trim controller that will be pretty smart. I am putting an airspeed sensor in it so that it can change the trim speed with airspeed. (It may be overkill but I am learning something right) I also intend a runaway trim protection feature. The feature will require that the device watch for some unusual behavior of the trim switches and shut down the appropriate switch. Since the pilot and co-pilot will have separate switches (pilot priority voting also included) it would be possible to get the trim back to where it should be using the other guy's switch once the controller determines that your switch is bad. Okay here are the questions... If I use a timer to determine failure what time should I use? 5 seconds, 10 seconds, a minute I don't want the thing to kick out a good switch because the pilot just held it on for too long. How long will you ever need to be moving the trim in any given direction at once, and what other failures have you seen that may contribute to a runaway situation? Godspeed, Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Fuselage http://www.myrv7.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "3 rotor" <rv8r300(at)attbi.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Electric/Electric or Manual Trim > > I question whether a trim kill switch could be activated in time to be > useful. I had my trim take off once, turns out I left a wire disconnected > and it grounded against the frame allowing only down trim. By the time I > figured out what was going on I had full down trim. I flew another 1/2 hr., > landed, disconnected the trim cable and taped the tab in place for the > return trip. Not really a big deal or worthy of further complexity IMHO. > kevin -6A 800hrs > > > I'm also planning a switch for trim power that could be used to kill power > in the highly unlikely event of runaway trim...I've never heard of it > happening in an RV but it's a reasonable and easy precaution. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bobpaulo(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 16, 2002
Subject: 6 kit for sale/I am back
Hello Guys, Long time no talk to... I am almost mended. Dental work yet and a few scars but it appears that I will recover fully. I now feel that the crash has been one of, if not the best thing that has ever happened to me. Without taking up space to explain, let me say two words that should sum it all up-REPENTANCE AND OBEDIENCE. If any of you want to discuss that more, contact me off list. It looks as if the engine failure was a result of a dry gas tank. The fuel selector was switched to a tank that was dry. I have come across a 6 project that of course, I will not fly but l am going to sell. The project has very very good workmanship, on gear finishing kit completed, but lacks any air time, instruments/radios, and has a Mazda auto engine. I may just finish this bird up and replace the engine with a Lycoming-mid time or what ever I can find. Then again, I may sell as is. Any thoughts as to an asking price as is? Or would I be better off to finish it and then sell as a completed plane. Again, I have no plans to ever fly again. It's a long story how I came across this thing. Let me know what you guys think. Bob in Arkansas ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: PDA-based product opinions
Date: Oct 16, 2002
From: "Todd Wenzel" <TWenzel@heartland-software.com>
David, A "block diagram" of the configuration I am using has the iPaq PDA, a very nice and solid yolk mount, and an integrated cable that has a Garmin GPS receiver, 12v "accessory" connector (aka cigarette lighter) and a small connector that plugs into the bottom of the iPaq. You should be able to see pictures of the options at http://www.anywheremap.com/ . You need to have the external 12v power since the iPaq does not have anywhere enough "juice" to power the GPS receiver. I place the GPS receiver on top of the glare shield in any plane I fly - I have never had any problem capturing or retaining GPS satellites. SNIP "...is the iPaq screen is bigger than a typical "handheld GPS's screen". I think in general the iPaq's screen is approximately the same size as many handheld, dedicated GPS's. SNIP "...you can't get Anywhere Map's features in a gps, which is why you need a separate computer & screen (iPaq). True?" I wouldn't say this is true. You can get many of the features found in the AWM application in other dedicated GPS's. The BIG difference, is since AWM is based on "generic" hardware (the iPaq) and by virtue of AWM being primarily a program, you can, and DO, get additional features with new releases of the AWM software. When you buy a dedicated handheld GPS, the features you buy are what you have until you replace the entire unit with a new dedicated GPS. With an iPaq and AWM (or other application) you can get a "new" product every couple of months - if you want the new features. Also, the yearly software support is only around $115. This allows you to download from the internet any updates to the software, plus database updates and daily TRF area - VERY useful and easy. SNIP "What would be the next level of increased value above the iPaq - a larger dedicated MFD (bigger screen)? Are those things still in the $5000 range?" I don't think it is really fair to compare a handheld PDA with a panel-mount MFD. However, that is really the closest comparison. I don't know what the MFD's run in price, since I never seriously considered one, aside from a Garmin 430/530 which is hideously priced. I still think we will not see the flexibility or speed to market with products built for a MFD. The mere fact that the potential market is so small with panel-mount MFD's is a huge barrier to profitable innovation from potential manufacturers. SNIP "If you buy the digital terrain database CD's, does the iPaq have enough memory to hold all or selected geographic portions of the CD's terrain data - so you can get the "out the front windscreen view" of terrain in front of the flight path? (where a line goes out and intersect any terrain higher than your current gps altitude)?" If you are referring to the "Mountain Scope" product for terrain, I know nothing about it and only just discovered it from this list. In general, answering if the iPaq has enough memory for such applications can only take the form of "maybe". It all really depends how efficient the software and terrain database is that you are interested in. It is possible to add more memory to an iPaq with memory cards. So far, I'm running a "stock" iPaq with 64meg RAM. I have the AWM loaded with many of the detailed databases like inland lakes, roads, terrain. I also have all of the pocket office products loaded in addition to pocket maps with diving maps of 5 counties surrounding my home. I also have a bunch of other misc. office files and synchronize my contacts and schedule with Outlook. I still have plenty of memory available. I haven't seen any programs with the sophistication you are referring to regarding terrain and flight paths for the iPaq, however, if that technology proves to be useful, I have no doubt you will see it appearing for the iPaq and at a small fraction of the cost. Hope this helps. Todd Wenzel Delafield, WI USA RV-8AQB - Finish Kit TWenzel@Heartland-Software.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: 6 kit for sale/I am back
Date: Oct 16, 2002
----- Original Message ----- From: <Bobpaulo(at)aol.com> Subject: RV-List: 6 kit for sale/I am back > > Hello Guys, > Long time no talk to... I am almost mended. Dental work yet and a few > scars but it appears that I will recover fully. I now feel that the crash has > been one of, if not the best thing that has ever happened to me. Without > taking up space to explain, let me say two words that should sum it all > up-REPENTANCE AND OBEDIENCE. If any of you want to discuss that more, contact > me off list. > It looks as if the engine failure was a result of a dry gas tank. The > fuel selector was switched to a tank that was dry. > I have come across a 6 project that of course, I will not fly but l am > going to sell. > The project has very very good workmanship, on gear finishing kit completed, > but lacks any air time, instruments/radios, and has a Mazda auto engine. I > may just finish this bird up and replace the engine with a Lycoming-mid time > or what ever I can find. Then again, I may sell as is. Any thoughts as to an > asking price as is? > Or would I be better off to finish it and then sell as a completed plane. > Again, I have no plans to ever fly again. It's a long story how I came across > this thing. > Let me know what you guys think. > Bob in Arkansas > Hi Bob, Glad to hear your are steadily getting better, hope the rapid progress continues. I noticed your offer of a RV-6 project with a Mazda Auto Engine. I fly a RV-6A with a rotary engine and I belong to two e mail list which has Rotary Engine and Aircraft enthusiast. With your permission, I would like to submit this to the two lists. You may get some interest in the project with the Mazda Engine and save you from perhaps having to convert it to a Lycoming before selling it. Let me hear from you Ed Anderson RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mark McGee" <riveter(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Hooker seat belt installation
Date: Oct 16, 2002
I plan on installing Hooker harnesses in my RV-4 and need someone to tell me the mounting requirements. Specifically, what bolt diameter is used for the seat belt and harness attachments? And what type of mounting will the crotch strap need? I know some builders have just provided a slot for the strap to go through. If just a slot, how wide? Thanks, Mark McGee RV-4 fuselage, skinning ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Subject: Manual Trim Slop
Date: Oct 16, 2002
I'm having trouble understanding the manual trim slop that people are referring to. The RV-6A that I am test flying right now has absolutely no slop. It is the most precise control I could imagine. It resembles the control effectiveness and tightness of the control stick on an RV. It literally takes 1/2 turn or less to get it perfect. I have never hunted for the trim spot on this airplane. The only thing I can think of is that Van changed the cable. There is nothing more precise for trim as far as I'm concerned. (At least with the airplane I am flying) The electric trim on my RV-6A that I sold was sloppy in that you couldn't really "feel" what you kind of trim inputs you were putting in. It's almost like you just guess how long to hold the switch down and see if that works. With the manual, you just make ever so slight adjustments and you can feel the airplane trim out. FWIW, just my personal observations. I'm not a manual trim purist by any means. I wish the electric trim worked better for me. I just can't see how it can with the precise control I have now. Does anyone know if Van changed the trim cable in recent years? Paul Besing RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10) http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software http://www.kitlog.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Subject: Re: Electric/Electric or Manual Trim
Date: Oct 16, 2002
Someone here has to chime in on the other side. These are simple sport airplanes, not federation starships. Van's standard manual trim with a vernier control works just fine. It is obvious to use, gives good control, has good feel, its simple, light weight, will not over run, will not get stuck, does not need its own electrical system or its own integrated computer. Granted, it doesn't have the "cool" factor, but neither does making your girl friend help muscle back the stick because the damn thing over ran in the wrong direction or shorted itself out just as your turning base. If it ain't there; it can't break. Or, (and I can't believe I'm quoting George Bush); "simplicate, simplicate, simplicate." Andy > I am > working on a microcontroller based trim controller that will be pretty > smart. I am putting an airspeed sensor in it so that it can change the trim > speed with airspeed. (It may be overkill but I am learning something right) > I also intend a runaway trim protection feature. The feature will require > that the device watch for some unusual behavior of the trim switches and > shut down the appropriate switch. Since the pilot and co-pilot will have > separate switches (pilot priority voting also included) it would be possible > to get the trim back to where it should be using the other guy's switch once > the controller determines that your switch is bad. > > Okay here are the questions... If I use a timer to determine failure what > time should I use? 5 seconds, 10 seconds, a minute I don't want the thing > to kick out a good switch because the pilot just held it on for too long. > How long will you ever need to be moving the trim in any given direction at > once, and what other failures have you seen that may contribute to a runaway > situation? > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
Subject: Electric/Electric or Manual Trim
Date: Oct 16, 2002
> Has anyone tried lengthening the arm on the trim tab so that > more travel is required to move the trim tab? This would > yield less travel over a given actuation time. > It would also limit the total trim tab travel (don't know if that would be a problem - probably only if you trim for inverted flight). Related to this, I recently repositioned the center of travel on my electric trim to give me more nose up trim. I found that with fuel load on the full side and solo, I was unable to trim for 70knots. Not a big deal as the stick forces are light anyway. I originally had the trim tab centered when the servo travel was centered, now it is biased. Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN RV6-A N66AP 215 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 16, 2002
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: Manual Trim Slop
Paul Besing wrote: > > > I'm having trouble understanding the manual trim slop that people are referring to. The RV-6A that I am test flying right now has absolutely no slop. It is the most precise control I could imagine. It resembles the control effectiveness and tightness of the control stick on an RV. It literally takes 1/2 turn or less to get it perfect. I have never hunted for the trim spot on this airplane. > I'm a bit perplexed by the reported sloppiness in the manual trim, too. The manual trim on my RV-6 is just as Paul described, tight with no slop whatsoever. I am wondering if the way I have the vernier adjusted on my trim might be contributing to its "tightness". When I started flying my plane, I was concerned about mistakenly grabbing the trim vernier and either pulling or pushing it instead of the throttle......yep, kind of a weird mistake to make, but, when you are testing a new plane, you sure don't want any extreme trim excursions! I tightened the lock on the trim cable so tightly it would be nearly impossible to pull or push the knob, yet I could still rotate it. The system worked so well I have just left it that way since the difference between take-off trim and landing trim is only about 3-4 good twists of the knob. In cruise flight, I can reliably adjust trim as fuel is burned off by just tweaking the knob less than 1/8 turn. Maybe if I had the lock loosened up all the way I would feel some slack in the system..... Sam Buchanan (RV-6) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Huft" <rv8tor(at)lazy8.net>
Subject: another chick leaves the nest
Date: Oct 16, 2002
listers-- I am very happy to report that after 3 yrs., 10 months building time, my RV8 (qb-sic) made her first flight yesterday. I flew her 1/2 hour then, and two more today. She is everything I had hoped for, light, responsive, honest, see the archives for better descriptions. I would like to send a huge THANK YOU to all of you who have helped me during this time with your tips, info, and incentive. This list is a great thing! (yes, I am a contributor). There are many improvements on my airplane that would not be there without all of you. As a way to say thank you, I would like to offer server space on my website for pictures of your airplanes (RVs). I have done this for my fellow Cessna 180/185 club members, and it has been great fun, and I have accumulated close to 200 pictures of 180s and 185s. see http://www.lazy8.net/membersbirds.htm for some examples. Anyway, I thought we could do the same for RVs, and I am sure there are more RVrs on the web. I will have to limit you to one picture per airplane, so send your favorite. send your picture (640 pixels wide if you can) to webmaster(at)lazy8.net and you will be famous. Tell me where you're based. I will organize them by type. Thanks again for your help. John Huft, Pagosa Springs, CO RV8 N184JH "Gypsy Tailwind" 2.5 hours www.lazy8.net/rv8.html p.s. I will post performance specs as I collect them. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Huft" <rv8tor(at)lazy8.net>
Subject: MT prop performance
Date: Oct 16, 2002
Today I took notes as I flew. I have an RV8 with O-360 (souped up a little) and 3-blade MT prop. With prop set at 2450, I slowly reduced power until rpms started to fall off. That happened at 10.5 inches of MP. I have the Vision Microsystems instrument. I guess my memory of other CS props I have flown agrees with this. My C185 does about the same thing, the analog MP instrument only goes down to 10 inches, so when I hit the bottom of this scale, I start watching the tach, and tend to fly final at 2000 rpm, which is off the scale on the MP gauge. About the same with other airplanes as well as I can remember. I guess Kevin Horton's observation would be a good one, but I am afraid to give her full power without tying the tail down, and haven't gotten around to that. John RV8 Pagosa Springs, CO -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy Garrett Subject: RV-List: MT prop performance I would like to compare notes with other people who have an MT prop on their RV. I have an RV-6A QB with an O-360 and the 3-bladed MT prop. I now have about 30 hours on it. I have noticed that the prop seems to hold the RPM that I have set using the prop governor much longer ... that is, with much less manifold pressure ... than any other constant speed prop I have flown. This is mostly apparent when reducing power on downwind or when really slowing down for slow flight. I would say the manifold pressure is between 5 and 10 inches before the prop can no longer hold 2300 or 2400 RPM. So, I think the blades are getting much flatter / going to higher pitch than other constant speed props. One effect of this is that I get a LOT of drag from the prop. I can really come down quick by reducing the power. This is not necessarily bad, just different. So, I wanted to see whether this is standard behavior for MT props. Thanks, Randy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net>
Subject: posting
Date: Oct 16, 2002
Kevin.....actually, messages posted to model-specific Matronics lists do not automatically post to the RV list. You can post to any list or combination of lists you like, but you have to send it to the ones you want it to show up on. Gary From: Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV4-List: Bleeding Brakes Steve, .................. Any message posted to one of the RV model specific list also gets posted to the main RV List. Any responses to the copy of the message that goes to the main RV List only go to the main RV List - they don't go back to the RV model specific list, ............... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com>
Subject: DAR Listing ???
Date: Oct 16, 2002
Listers, Several weeks ago there was some discussion about listing the good DARs (and otherwise). What ever happened to that? Did we make a list somewhere? At issue: My hangar mate had his RV-6 inspected today. Total time on site: 10 minutes. Never looked under the cowl. Never looked into any inspection holes. Never looked at the engine or prop logs. Couldn't care less if there was a POH--never looked at it. Simply showed up, looked at a few photos of my buddy building the plane, did some paperwork, and gave a bill for $500. Yep, $500 US. Surely we can expect more bang for our buck!??! jim Tampa ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVer273sb(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 16, 2002
Subject: RV-4 for sale
Listers, My hangar renter has an RV-4 for sale. Believe it has been flying for 7 years. Light weight airplane, basic day/ night VFR. O320 carburated, approximately 750 hrs airframe 240 hrs since topOH, 1800 bottom end, Runs and flies wonderfully. For more info contact Dennis Martin, at MFlyit(at)cs.com or 303-682-9032 Denver area Silver and blue paint..... By RV273sb in Co ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 16, 2002
From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Manual Trim Slop
Paul Besing wrote: > > > I'm having trouble understanding the manual trim slop that people are referring to. The RV-6A that I am test flying right now has absolutely no slop. It is the most precise control I could imagine. It resembles the control effectiveness and tightness of the control stick on an RV. It literally takes 1/2 turn or less to get it perfect. I have never hunted for the trim spot on this airplane. > > The only thing I can think of is that Van changed the cable. There is nothing more precise for trim as far as I'm concerned. (At least with the airplane I am flying) The electric trim on my RV-6A that I sold was sloppy in that you couldn't really "feel" what you kind of trim inputs you were putting in. It's almost like you just guess how long to hold the switch down and see if that works. With the manual, you just make ever so slight adjustments and you can feel the airplane trim out. > > FWIW, just my personal observations. I'm not a manual trim purist by any means. I wish the electric trim worked better for me. I just can't see how it can with the precise control I have now. Does anyone know if Van changed the trim cable in recent years? > > Paul Besing > RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10) > http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing > Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software > http://www.kitlog.com > Paul I well give this a try. I don't know how the manual trims are set up now so can't speak for any RV except my RV-6. When the trim cable comes forward to the front of the spar then it had to make almost 180 degrees of turn to come back through the vertical console. It is in this bend that the cable would have a little slop as the cable would have to push against the outside of the housing or the inside of the housing depending on which way you were trimming. As I said maybe in later models they had a better housing to cable fit which would eliminate most the the slop in the bend. Jerry Springer ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner(at)wans.net>
Subject: Re: DAR Listing ???
Date: Oct 16, 2002
> Listers, > Several weeks ago there was some discussion about listing the good DARs (and > otherwise). What ever happened to that? Did we make a list somewhere? > At issue: My hangar mate had his RV-6 inspected today. Total time on site: > 10 minutes. Never looked under the cowl. Never looked into any inspection > holes. Never looked at the engine or prop logs. Couldn't care less if there > was a POH--never looked at it. Hello Jim, Look at Doug Reeves Site under: http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/dar.htm It is somewhat of a start towards a DAR List! > Simply showed up, looked at a few photos of my buddy building the plane, did > some paperwork, and gave a bill for $500. > Yep, $500 US. OUCH & OUCH, and what principles is this DAR living by ????? Quick $$'s versus a time consuming evaluation towards safe flight? > Surely we can expect more bang for our buck!??! Let us all hope so! Sincerely, Konrad Werner ABQ - NM ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 16, 2002
From: Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: posting
Gary, Sorry, I have to respectfully disagree here. I am a member of Matt's RV8-list and the RV-list. If I post a message to the RV8-list, I get two copies - one that comes from the RV8-list, and a copy that comes across on the main RV-list. I just checked my Out Box - my message to Steve was sent to the RV4-List only. The copy you replied too seems to have come from the main RV-List. Search the RV-List archives for the text " New Specific RV Lists Auto Forwarded to RV-List" (don't include the quote marks. You'll find Matt's description of how the system works. I believe it causes confusion, because a lot of people on the main RV-List don't understand that they need study the original message to see where it originated, and send their response to the message to the correct list. Otherwise, the original poster may not see the response. But, Matt likes it the way it is, and these are his lists. Kevin > >Kevin.....actually, messages posted to model-specific Matronics >lists do not automatically post to the RV list. You can post to any >list or combination of lists you like, but you have to send it to >the ones you want it to show up on. > >Gary > >From: Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV4-List: Bleeding Brakes > > >Steve, > >.................. Any message posted to one of the RV model specific >list also gets posted to the main RV List. Any responses to the copy >of the message that goes to the main RV List only go to the main RV >List - they don't go back to the RV model specific list, ............... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "george murphy" <george(at)atlantic.net>
Subject:
Date: Oct 16, 2002
Am looking for wing kit and fusealge kit for RV-6A at any stage of constrution. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 16, 2002
From: Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)attbi.com>
Subject: Re: DAR Listing ???
Jim, This DAR is contributing nothing to flight safety. It's only a matter of time before someone kills himself on an early flight of an aircraft that this guy 'certified' as airworthy. His name needs to be reported, to this list, the EAA & the FAA. Not necessarily in that order. Ken Balch RV-8 N118KB Jim Norman wrote: > >Listers, >Several weeks ago there was some discussion about listing the good DARs (and >otherwise). What ever happened to that? Did we make a list somewhere? > >At issue: My hangar mate had his RV-6 inspected today. Total time on site: >10 minutes. Never looked under the cowl. Never looked into any inspection >holes. Never looked at the engine or prop logs. Couldn't care less if there >was a POH--never looked at it. > >Simply showed up, looked at a few photos of my buddy building the plane, did >some paperwork, and gave a bill for $500. > >Yep, $500 US. > >Surely we can expect more bang for our buck!??! > >jim >Tampa > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 16, 2002
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: DAR Listing ???
Jim Norman wrote: > > > Listers, > Several weeks ago there was some discussion about listing the good DARs (and > otherwise). What ever happened to that? Did we make a list somewhere? Yes indeed! :-) Here is the link for the DAR list on Doug Reeves's site: http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/dar.htm Sam Buchanan ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Subject: Re: DAR Listing ???
Date: Oct 16, 2002
Not good, Jim. While we don't necessarily need an overly picky DAR, this is on the extreme opposite. Guys like this could give Experimental Aviation a bad name if one of the planes he "inspects" crashes. Personally, I'd like my DAR to be thorough to keep my plane safe. Please, call the nearest FSDO or MIDO before someone gets killed. Paul Besing RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10) http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software http://www.kitlog.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> Subject: RV-List: DAR Listing ??? > > Listers, > Several weeks ago there was some discussion about listing the good DARs (and > otherwise). What ever happened to that? Did we make a list somewhere? > > At issue: My hangar mate had his RV-6 inspected today. Total time on site: > 10 minutes. Never looked under the cowl. Never looked into any inspection > holes. Never looked at the engine or prop logs. Couldn't care less if there > was a POH--never looked at it. > > Simply showed up, looked at a few photos of my buddy building the plane, did > some paperwork, and gave a bill for $500. > > Yep, $500 US. > > Surely we can expect more bang for our buck!??! > > jim > Tampa > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Meketa" <acgm(at)gvtc.com>
Subject: Re: Manual Trim Slop
Date: Oct 16, 2002
Hello Yall The sloppy manual trim was on an RV4 with a trim lever, not a vernier control knob. On the side by side aircraft a center mounted vernier control would work well. On the tandems it will not if both occupants are to truely fly the airplane. >I concur with Jerry, I had manual trim on my RV-4, found it to be too >sloppy, converted to electric and now love it. Have the electric on my RV->6 too. I will admit a bias towards electric trim because that's what I fly at >work, so to each his/her own, it's too bad you couldn't try both, though. >> I'm having trouble understanding the manual trim slop that people are >>referring to. The RV-6A that I am test flying right now has absolutely no >>slop. >> I'm a bit perplexed by the reported sloppiness in the manual trim, too. >> The manual trim on my RV-6 is just as Paul described, tight with no slop >> whatsoever. George Meketa RV8 175 hours, with electric trim ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Oct 16, 2002
"Re: RV-List: posting" (Oct 16, 6:40pm) rv7-list(at)matronics.com, rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv9-list(at)matronics.com, rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: posting (To Forward or Not to Forward...)
Kevin's right, except for the RV7, RV9, and RV10 Lists. The way its been set up is when someone posts to the RV3, RV4, RV6, and RV8 Lists a copy is automatically sent to the RV-List too. For some reason, the 7/9/10 lists weren't configured that way; probably because I added them later and forgot that about the forwarding. In anycase, for now I've added the forward feature the 7/9/10 Lists to keep everything consistant. However, I don't have a stong preference either way, actually. I can see pros and cons to each. Would people prefer the not-forwarding operation? Sounds like it they might... So let's vote! Drop me an email at: dralle(at)matronics.com with a simple: "Forward" or "Don't Forward" in the Subject Line. I'll added up the votes in a couple of days and announce the new method. Matt Dralle List Admin. >-------------- > >Gary, > >Sorry, I have to respectfully disagree here. I am a member of Matt's >RV8-list and the RV-list. If I post a message to the RV8-list, I get >two copies - one that comes from the RV8-list, and a copy that comes >across on the main RV-list. > >I just checked my Out Box - my message to Steve was sent to the >RV4-List only. The copy you replied too seems to have come from the >main RV-List. > >Search the RV-List archives for the text " New Specific RV Lists Auto >Forwarded to RV-List" (don't include the quote marks. You'll find >Matt's description of how the system works. I believe it causes >confusion, because a lot of people on the main RV-List don't >understand that they need study the original message to see where it >originated, and send their response to the message to the correct >list. Otherwise, the original poster may not see the response. But, >Matt likes it the way it is, and these are his lists. > >Kevin > >> >>Kevin.....actually, messages posted to model-specific Matronics >>lists do not automatically post to the RV list. You can post to any >>list or combination of lists you like, but you have to send it to >>the ones you want it to show up on. >> >>Gary >> >>From: Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> >>Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV4-List: Bleeding Brakes >> >> >>Steve, >> >>.................. Any message posted to one of the RV model specific >>list also gets posted to the main RV List. Any responses to the copy >>of the message that goes to the main RV List only go to the main RV >>List - they don't go back to the RV model specific list, ............... > > >-------------- -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety. Benjamin Franklin Historical Review of Pennsylvania, 1759 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 16, 2002
From: Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
Subject: Re: 6 kit for sale/I am back
Bobpaulo(at)aol.com wrote: > > > Hello Guys, > Long time no talk to... I am almost mended. Dental work yet and a few > scars but it appears that I will recover fully. I now feel that the crash has > been one of, if not the best thing that has ever happened to me. Without > taking up space to explain, let me say two words that should sum it all > up-REPENTANCE AND OBEDIENCE. If any of you want to discuss that more, contact > me off list. > It looks as if the engine failure was a result of a dry gas tank. The > fuel selector was switched to a tank that was dry. > I have come across a 6 project that of course, I will not fly but l am > going to sell. > The project has very very good workmanship, on gear finishing kit completed, > but lacks any air time, instruments/radios, and has a Mazda auto engine. I > may just finish this bird up and replace the engine with a Lycoming-mid time > or what ever I can find. Then again, I may sell as is. Any thoughts as to an > asking price as is? > Or would I be better off to finish it and then sell as a completed plane. > Again, I have no plans to ever fly again. It's a long story how I came across > this thing. > Let me know what you guys think. > Bob in Arkansas > Hi Bob, I'm glad to hear that you are recovering well. We swapped emails shortly after your accident about Bill Nolan's RV-6 project. Is that the one you now have for sale? I had heard that it wouldn't be available until after the year's end. I might be interested in the project. Can you send info on what's actually installed in the plane & pictures, if possible? If your asking price is reasonable, I might be able to come up this weekend to take a look. If you will send me you're phone # I'll try to call you for more details. Thanks, Charlie Jackson MS ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Keith and Deanie Southard" <d.southard(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Aux Fuel
Date: Oct 16, 2002
Has anyone added additinal fuel capacity other than the 8 1/2 gallon tip tanks offered in Vans catalog? How much additional capacity can the wing carry out on the tips? How is this going to affect useful load? I know in my Bonanza, tip tank fuel was "free" in that a gross weight increase was allowed equal to the amount of fuel carried. Keith Southard RV9A Empennage Done! QB fuse and wings on the Boat ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca>
Subject: Best web sites for used avionics?
Date: Oct 17, 2002
ebaymotors.com look in parts and accessories....aviation....lots of good used avionics here, I've sold some myself on ebay. Joe Hine (rv4flyer on ebay) RV4 C-FYTQ Guys... Have any input for best sites for used avionics ?? Gyro's, Nav/GPS.. autopilots.. Al Karpinski Jordan NY RV-8 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com>
Subject: Aux Fuel
Date: Oct 16, 2002
I saw a yellow RV7 a few weeks ago in Augusta GA (Boshear's/Skyfest 2002) that *appeared* to have a fuel tank in the baggage compartment. I saw a fuel cap on the right side with a capacity of 9 (or 10?) gallons etched on it. I could not see whether there was a tank because it had a baggage compartment cover. Maybe the builder/owner is on this list. James > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Keith and Deanie > Southard > Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2002 10:45 PM > To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Aux Fuel > > > > > Has anyone added additinal fuel capacity other than the 8 1/2 gallon tip > tanks offered in Vans catalog? > > How much additional capacity can the wing carry out on the tips? How is > this going to affect useful load? I know in my Bonanza, tip tank fuel was > "free" in that a gross weight increase was allowed equal to the amount of > fuel carried. > > Keith Southard > RV9A > Empennage Done! > QB fuse and wings on the Boat > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: Manual Trim Slop
Date: Oct 16, 2002
I thought I saw in one of the RVators a while back a recommendation and instructions how to disable the push-pull function of the vernier. Once modified, the only way to adjust is by twisting it. This isn't a standard mod now for the manual trim? - Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Buchanan > Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2002 7:31 PM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: Manual Trim Slop > > > > I'm a bit perplexed by the reported sloppiness in the manual > trim, too. The manual trim on my RV-6 is just as Paul > described, tight with no slop whatsoever. I am wondering if > the way I have the vernier adjusted on my trim might be > contributing to its "tightness". When I started flying my > plane, I was concerned about mistakenly grabbing the trim > vernier and either pulling or pushing it instead of the > throttle......yep, kind of a weird mistake to make, but, when > you are testing a new plane, you sure don't want any extreme > trim excursions! > > I tightened the lock on the trim cable so tightly it would be > nearly impossible to pull or push the knob, yet I could still > rotate it. The system worked so well I have just left it that > way since the difference between take-off trim and landing > trim is only about 3-4 good twists of the knob. In cruise > flight, I can reliably adjust trim as fuel is burned off by > just tweaking the knob less than 1/8 turn. > > Maybe if I had the lock loosened up all the way I would feel > some slack in the system..... > > Sam Buchanan (RV-6) > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Subject: Trim
Date: Oct 16, 2002
Trim? Get some now, oh wait, this conversation is about a different kind of trim. %$@#{) Having had the manual trim, and now having the electric trim, I can't find any difference??? I thought about this for awhile after reading the recent threads and at first decided it was because I have the speed reducer wired in with a switch that selects speeds, but then I realized that I never use the slow speed??? So I thought about it some more and decided its because I don't use the trim to level the aircraft, I use it to set the airspeed, then use the throttle to set vertical speed. And I am not as picky on airspeed as I try to be on altitude. When I climb or descend I adjust throttle. Once in cruise the only time I change trim is when I need to slow down for landings. Then I back off the throttle more than normal for a descent and slowly add/bump trim to maintain a roughly fixed descent rate. I keep this up until I am at the desired new airspeed and then continue using the throttle to control vertical speed. And I've done this with both types of tab control. Lowering flaps doesn't seem to change this much, although it does change the aircraft attitude a lot. The reason I went to the electric was to try out the altitude hold device designed by Cliff Caddy. I haven't had good results with that part of it yet, but I have been way to busy at the College to really give it the time needed to dial it in. I believe it needs some software mods, but have to program the laptop to read it and store data in flight to see why its not working. It goes ok for a few mild 30 ft oscillations then goes into higher swings and finally kicks itself into a fixed 500 FPM descent. The adjuster POTs don't seem to be able to fix this so I have more "experiments" to play with and more reasons to go flying. I used the Gretz remote cable to convert, and it works very well. The only tid bit of advice is use the longest travel ray allen servo and don't center the servo travel with the tab centered. Justify it to give you the most nose up the Tab will go (tab trailing edge down). When the RV6s are full fuel and low pax/bag it will be needed to get 70kts hands free flying. Any other load will move cg aft making it easier to get the nose up. And they never need much nose down/tab up to go fast. When I am at full fuel solo(worst case fwd cg) I have the servo at max retraction, tab trailing edge full down, LED indicator bar at the top, ASI 70kts; but at cruise, 160kts, the servo is three LED bars from the bottom, and the tab is about neutral. The Ray Allen servos are 1.2" of travel, I think,? and there are ten LED bars in the full range. This imbalance of range could be fixed by changing the attach point of the cable on the tab to a shorter lever arm, but I wasn't into that much work, and increased tab senstivity, and the aircraft doesn't need it for any normal flight parameter or loading condition. This by the way seems to be normal for RV6s as indicated by Scott over at Ray Allen, who is building one. I owe him a ride, if he's lurking, but haven't had the time to get up much myself, other than a few fly ins. W ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Haywire" <haywire(at)telus.net>
Subject: RE: RV9-List: Aux Fuel
Date: Oct 16, 2002
> Has anyone added additinal fuel capacity other than the 8 1/2 gallon tip > tanks offered in Vans catalog? > > How much additional capacity can the wing carry out on the tips? How is > this going to affect useful load? I know in my Bonanza, tip tank fuel was > "free" in that a gross weight increase was allowed equal to the amount of > fuel carried. > > Keith Southard Hi Kieth; Take a look at my site http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm and look under fuel systems. I have a 89 usg capacity. S. Todd Bartrim Turbo 13B rotary powered RV-9endurance (FWF) C-FSTB http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Subject: Re: RE: RV9-List: Aux Fuel
Date: Oct 16, 2002
Good God, Man! Your plane is going to have a ramp weight of 1900 pounds! I hope you put in a "pilot relief" function in the airplane, cause I'm sure the the tanks will outlast you! Paul Besing RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10) http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software http://www.kitlog.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Haywire" <haywire(at)telus.net> Subject: RV-List: RE: RV9-List: Aux Fuel > > > > Has anyone added additinal fuel capacity other than the 8 1/2 gallon tip > > tanks offered in Vans catalog? > > > > How much additional capacity can the wing carry out on the tips? How is > > this going to affect useful load? I know in my Bonanza, tip tank fuel was > > "free" in that a gross weight increase was allowed equal to the amount of > > fuel carried. > > > > Keith Southard > > Hi Kieth; > Take a look at my site http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm and > look under fuel systems. I have a 89 usg capacity. > > S. Todd Bartrim > Turbo 13B rotary powered > RV-9endurance (FWF) > C-FSTB > http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: another chick leaves the nest
Date: Oct 17, 2002
John, CONGRATULATIONS & WELL DONE !! Chuck & Dave Rowbotham RV-8A >From: "John Huft" <rv8tor(at)lazy8.net> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: "Rv-List(at)Matronics. Com" >Subject: RV-List: another chick leaves the nest >Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 17:40:04 -0600 > > >listers-- > >I am very happy to report that after 3 yrs., 10 months building time, my >RV8 >(qb-sic) made her first flight yesterday. I flew her 1/2 hour then, and two >more today. She is everything I had hoped for, light, responsive, honest, >see the archives for better descriptions. > >I would like to send a huge THANK YOU to all of you who have helped me > Surf the Web without missing calls!Get MSN Broadband. http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/freeactivation.asp ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Larry Hawkins <lhawkins(at)giant.com>
Subject: DAR Listing ???
Date: Oct 17, 2002
I agree that this guy needs to be reported to some authority, but I will not trust my life to one inspector especially someone I don't even know. My final inspection will be done by two different EAA technical advisors, one is an RV expert and the other is a very well trusted A&P with IA. Just my two cents worth. Larry Hawkins, RV-4 Farmington, NM, N-345SL, (reserved) finishing. -----Original Message----- From: Ken Balch [mailto:kbalch1(at)attbi.com] Subject: Re: RV-List: DAR Listing ??? Jim, This DAR is contributing nothing to flight safety. It's only a matter of time before someone kills himself on an early flight of an aircraft that this guy 'certified' as airworthy. His name needs to be reported, to this list, the EAA & the FAA. Not necessarily in that order. Ken Balch RV-8 N118KB Jim Norman wrote: > >Listers, >Several weeks ago there was some discussion about listing the good DARs (and >otherwise). What ever happened to that? Did we make a list somewhere? > >At issue: My hangar mate had his RV-6 inspected today. Total time on site: >10 minutes. Never looked under the cowl. Never looked into any inspection >holes. Never looked at the engine or prop logs. Couldn't care less if there >was a POH--never looked at it. > >Simply showed up, looked at a few photos of my buddy building the plane, did >some paperwork, and gave a bill for $500. > >Yep, $500 US. > >Surely we can expect more bang for our buck!??! > >jim >Tampa > > RE: RV-List: DAR Listing ??? I agree that this guy needs to be reported to some authority, but I will not trust my life to one inspector especially someone I don't even know. My final inspection will be done by two different EAA technical advisors, one is an RV expert and the other is a very well trusted AP with IA. Just my two cents worth. Larry Hawkins, RV-4 Farmington, NM, N-345SL, (reserved) finishing. -----Original Message----- From: Ken Balch [<A HREF"mailto:kbalch1(at)attbi.com">mailto:kbalch1(at)attbi.com] Subject: Re: RV-List: DAR Listing ??? -- RV-List message posted by: Ken Balch kbalch1(at)attbi.com Jim, This DAR is contributing nothing to flight safety. It's only a matter of time before someone kills himself on an early flight of an aircraft that this guy 'certified' as airworthy. His name needs to be reported, to this list, the EAA the FAA. Not necessarily in that order. Ken Balch RV-8 N118KB Jim Norman wrote: -- RV-List message posted by: Jim Norman jnorman(at)InterMapSystems.com Listers, Several weeks ago there was some discussion about listing the good DARs (and otherwise). What ever happened to that? Did we make a list somewhere? At issue: My hangar mate had his RV-6 inspected today. Total time on site: 10 minutes. Never looked under the cowl. Never looked into any inspection holes. Never looked at the engine or prop logs. Couldn't care less if there was a POH--never looked at it. Simply showed up, looked at a few photos of my buddy building the plane, did some paperwork, and gave a bill for $500. Yep, $500 US. Surely we can expect more bang for our buck!??! jim Tampa ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Hooker seat belt installation
Date: Oct 17, 2002
I have a Hooker 5 point harness in my -4. I don't recall what diameter bolts are used to attach the harness. Regarding the crotch strap anchor, I built a triangular tab from .063 steel (4130) with holes the three corners. Two holes were used to attach the tab to the 2 (top) center spar bolts. These are the same bolts that hold the bracket to which control tube is attached. I can't recall whether or not I had to buy longer bolts to to accept the tab. Finally, I put a small joggle in the tab (1/4") to place the top of the tab in the proper location to receive the crotch strap. So far it works well, though it is one more thing to disassemble to get into the "stick well". Good luck Dean Pichon RV-4 Morgantown, WV >From: "Mark McGee" <riveter(at)ix.netcom.com> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: RV-List: Hooker seat belt installation >Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 18:02:21 -0400 > > >I plan on installing Hooker harnesses in my RV-4 and need someone to tell >me >the mounting requirements. Specifically, what bolt diameter is used for the >seat belt and harness attachments? And what type of mounting will the >crotch >strap need? I know some builders have just provided a slot for the strap to >go through. If just a slot, how wide? > >Thanks, >Mark McGee >RV-4 fuselage, skinning > > Surf the Web without missing calls! Get MSN Broadband. http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/freeactivation.asp ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill" <n8wv(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: This guy needs a good BLASTING!
Date: Oct 17, 2002
You all have to read this article titled: "Pretty Blue Angels Of Death A dazzling air show, a bitter reminder of what hell we are causing elsewhere, free balloons for the kids" Catch the whole article at http://www.sfgate.com/columnists/morford and even (should you choose to do so) write Mark Morford at mmorford(at)sfgate.com and let him know what YOU might think of his column. Have fun.... -Bill www.vondane.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 17, 2002
From: <warrenkm(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: This guy needs a good BLASTING!
Jeez, sounds like he needs a good choking with his love beads. Well, I sent him a comment or two, just for fun! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner(at)wans.net>
Subject: DAR - Compensation?
Date: Oct 17, 2002
Hi Listers, Here is another question pertaining to the independent DAR Services: What was YOUR COST to hire a DAR for an inspection ??? (I am sure these # vary greatly, but yesterday's $500 will probably top that by far, I hope?) Sincerely, Konrad Werner ABQ - NM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Subject: Re: DAR - Compensation?
Date: Oct 17, 2002
Don't know if he is still doing DAR work, but the guy who signed off my -6A in Los Lunas, NM (near Albuquerque) was Manuel Lopez. He was cooperative, friendly, liked RVs, and didn't ask for anything stupid. I don't remember what I paid him which means it was probably something reasonable. I think you can contact him through Blue Sky aviation at Mid Valley Airport. Andy ----- Original Message ----- From: "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner(at)wans.net> Subject: RV-List: DAR - Compensation? > > Hi Listers, > Here is another question pertaining to the independent DAR Services: > > What was YOUR COST to hire a DAR for an inspection ??? > > (I am sure these # vary greatly, but yesterday's $500 will probably top that by far, I hope?) > > Sincerely, > Konrad Werner > ABQ - NM > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "3 rotor" <rv8r300(at)attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Aux Fuel
Date: Oct 17, 2002
I have an 18.4 gal baggage tank. I plumbed another valve into the existing giving me the choice of 5 inputs. The tank is sheet metal and rivets and proseal, just like we were taught :-) I have 11 hrs at high altitude although I have only done 10 hrs non-stop so far. I almost flew Portland/Camarillo/Portland before filling again. I built a 50 gallon passenger tank but haven't flown it full yet. I am planning on attempting Astoria OR/Kittyhawk non-stop next year. My hangarmate may attempt to beat me using refueling stops, but I think I'll have to give him a headstart to make it competitive. Maybe Todd B will join us for a Canadian show of force. Kevin -6A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Knicholas2(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 17, 2002
Subject: marker beacon & transponder antenna placement
It sounds like a lot of us are at approximately the same stage of construction. I want to put the marker beacon and transponder antennas on the center line, forward of the spar and fairly close to each other. Is there any RF/electronicn reason that this would be a problem? Kim Nicholas RV9A finishing...... Seattle ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HCRV6(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 17, 2002
Subject: Re: RV6-List: 664SB 3 Hour Report (LONG)!
Gee Stein, it's a dirty shame that you don't like the way the RV flys after all that hard work :-). Do Not Archive Harry Crosby Pleasanton, California RV-6, electrical stuff forever (it seems) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HCRV6(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 17, 2002
Subject: Re: Manual Trim Slop
Interesting that you bring this up Paul, I have noticed that my manual trim cable, not yet installed, seems to have about a half to three quarters of a turn of slop (dead band) when I am playing with it on the bench. Does anyone know if this is normal or should I see about getting another one from Van's before I install it? Harry Crosby Pleasanton, California RV-6, electrical stuff ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com>
Subject: DAR Listing ???
Date: Oct 17, 2002
Although I do understand all and agree with some of the points being made, I think Larry's point is a very important one. When the DAR arrives, **HOPEFULLY** the plane has in fact been inspected many times over by several different people, at different points along the construction. The local DAR who did two RV6's in adjacent hangars over the last few months, didn't spend half a day inspecting every possible place *BUT*, he had been by the hangars several times during the construction (when all was "out in the open") and didn't feel the need for such. More importantly though, the most recent plane had had at least TWO full checklist inspections directed by my very detail oriented building partner. So when she stepped into it to do the first flight, I was sure she and the plane would be OK *independent* of what the DAR found. By the way, after all our inspections, he did find a (minor) loose bolt. The point is at this stage in the process, the fee can be viewed in part as a registration fee and a fee for inspection services rendered ... some of which may be a bit lacking. Believe me, I **want** the inpector to find anything that may not be right about the plane. I just think that we could end up in the other extreme where planes FAIL because overly rigid inspector of the type mentioned elsewhere on this list. Just another point of view ... James > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry Hawkins > Sent: Thursday, October 17, 2002 8:27 AM > To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com' > Subject: RE: RV-List: DAR Listing ??? > > > I agree that this guy needs to be reported to some authority, but > I will not > trust my life to one inspector especially someone I don't even know. My > final inspection will be done by two different EAA technical advisors, one > is an RV expert and the other is a very well trusted A&P with IA. > Just my two cents worth. > Larry Hawkins, RV-4 Farmington, NM, N-345SL, (reserved) finishing. > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Ken Balch [mailto:kbalch1(at)attbi.com] > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: DAR Listing ??? > > > Jim, > > This DAR is contributing nothing to flight safety. It's only a matter > of time before someone kills himself on an early flight of an aircraft > that this guy 'certified' as airworthy. His name needs to be reported, > to this list, the EAA & the FAA. Not necessarily in that order. > > Ken Balch > RV-8 N118KB > > Jim Norman wrote: > > > > >Listers, > >Several weeks ago there was some discussion about listing the good DARs > (and > >otherwise). What ever happened to that? Did we make a list somewhere? > > > >At issue: My hangar mate had his RV-6 inspected today. Total > time on site: > >10 minutes. Never looked under the cowl. Never looked into any > inspection > >holes. Never looked at the engine or prop logs. Couldn't care less if > there > >was a POH--never looked at it. > > > >Simply showed up, looked at a few photos of my buddy building the plane, > did > >some paperwork, and gave a bill for $500. > > > >Yep, $500 US. > > > >Surely we can expect more bang for our buck!??! > > > >jim > >Tampa > > > > > > > > > > > RE: RV-List: DAR Listing ??? > > > I agree that this guy needs to be reported to some authority, but > I will not trust my life to one inspector especially someone I > don't even know. My final inspection will be done by two > different EAA technical advisors, one is an RV expert and the > other is a very well trusted AP with IA. > > > Just my two cents worth. > > Larry Hawkins, RV-4 Farmington, NM, N-345SL, (reserved) finishing. > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Ken Balch [<A > HREF"mailto:kbalch1(at)attbi.com">mailto:kbalch1(at)attbi.com] > > > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > > Subject: Re: RV-List: DAR Listing ??? > > > -- RV-List message posted by: Ken Balch kbalch1(at)attbi.com > > > Jim, > > > This DAR is contributing nothing to flight safety. It's only a matter > > of time before someone kills himself on an early flight of an aircraft > > that this guy 'certified' as airworthy. His name needs to be reported, > > to this list, the EAA the FAA. Not necessarily in that order. > > > Ken Balch > > RV-8 N118KB > > > Jim Norman wrote: > > > -- RV-List message posted by: Jim Norman jnorman(at)InterMapSystems.com > > > Listers, > > Several weeks ago there was some discussion about listing the > good DARs (and > > otherwise). What ever happened to that? Did we make a list somewhere? > > > At issue: My hangar mate had his RV-6 inspected today. Total time on site: > > 10 minutes. Never looked under the cowl. Never looked into any inspection > > holes. Never looked at the engine or prop logs. Couldn't care > less if there > > was a POH--never looked at it. > > > Simply showed up, looked at a few photos of my buddy building the > plane, did > > some paperwork, and gave a bill for $500. > > > Yep, $500 US. > > > Surely we can expect more bang for our buck!??! > > > jim > > Tampa > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HCRV6(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 17, 2002
Subject: Re: RV6-List: Re: posting (To Forward or Not to Forward...)
Forward! Harry Crosby Pleasanton, California RV-6, electrical stuff ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 17, 2002
Subject: Re: posting (To Forward or Not to Forward...)
From: cecilth(at)juno.com
Forward 6:40pm) dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) writes: > > > Kevin's right, except for the RV7, RV9, and RV10 Lists. The way its > > been set up is when someone posts to the RV3, RV4, RV6, and RV8 > Lists > a copy is automatically sent to the RV-List too. For some reason, > the > 7/9/10 lists weren't configured that way; probably because I added > them later and forgot that about the forwarding. > > In anycase, for now I've added the forward feature the 7/9/10 Lists > to keep > everything consistant. > > However, I don't have a stong preference either way, actually. I > can > see pros and cons to each. Would people prefer the not-forwarding > operation? Sounds like it they might... > > So let's vote! Drop me an email at: > > dralle(at)matronics.com > > with a simple: > > "Forward" > or > "Don't Forward" > > in the Subject Line. I'll added up the votes in a couple of days > and > announce the new method. > > > Matt Dralle > List Admin. > > > >-------------- > > > >Gary, > > > >Sorry, I have to respectfully disagree here. I am a member of > Matt's > >RV8-list and the RV-list. If I post a message to the RV8-list, I > get > >two copies - one that comes from the RV8-list, and a copy that > comes > >across on the main RV-list. > > > >I just checked my Out Box - my message to Steve was sent to the > >RV4-List only. The copy you replied too seems to have come from > the > >main RV-List. > > > >Search the RV-List archives for the text " New Specific RV Lists > Auto > >Forwarded to RV-List" (don't include the quote marks. You'll find > > >Matt's description of how the system works. I believe it causes > >confusion, because a lot of people on the main RV-List don't > >understand that they need study the original message to see where > it > >originated, and send their response to the message to the correct > >list. Otherwise, the original poster may not see the response. > But, > >Matt likes it the way it is, and these are his lists. > > > >Kevin > > > >> > >>Kevin.....actually, messages posted to model-specific Matronics > >>lists do not automatically post to the RV list. You can post to > any > >>list or combination of lists you like, but you have to send it to > >>the ones you want it to show up on. > >> > >>Gary > >> > >>From: Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> > >>Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV4-List: Bleeding Brakes > >> > > >> > >>Steve, > >> > >>.................. Any message posted to one of the RV model > specific > >>list also gets posted to the main RV List. Any responses to the > copy > >>of the message that goes to the main RV List only go to the main > RV > >>List - they don't go back to the RV model specific list, > ............... > > > > > >-------------- > > > -- > > > Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 > 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email > http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft > > > They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little > temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety. > > Benjamin Franklin > Historical Review of Pennsylvania, 1759 > > > > > messages. > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Williams" <frate.dawg(at)attglobal.net>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: parking brake
Date: Oct 17, 2002
Mark: I don't have time to re-invent the wheel (or more appropriately, the wheel brake). Having instructed some 800 hrs in Cherokees, there are two things I'm taking from Piper---and one is the handy little "parking" brake system which fits under the panel, easily accessible by either pilot, yet out of the way. When you pull it, it simply squeezes a piston-type actuator which ports pressure equally or evenly to both main brakes (a tiny bit of additional brake line plumbing and a tee-fitting is all that is required). "Parking" is in quotes because most pilots use this brake to stop or quickly slow the airplane straight ahead on the runway after landing, then switch to the toe brakes for turn-off and taxi. They work great, either as landing brakes (very, very smooth), or as parking brakes (very simple and elegant). But a latching pawl-type lock and release arrangement with a pull-out knob/cable for release, affixed to the toe brakes when they are both fully depressed, would be lighter and do the same thing for use as parking brakes. When you design it and install it, take pictures for the rest of us. Regards, John Williams ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Schrimmer" <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net> Subject: RV9-List: parking brake > --> RV9-List message posted by: Mark Schrimmer > > Are most of you installing a parking brake? I was surpised to learn the > factory 9A doesn't have one. > > Mark Schrimmer > RV-9A > Wings > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: This guy needs a good BLASTING!
From: Scott.Fink(at)microchip.com
Date: Oct 17, 2002
10/17/2002 02:00:56 PM, Serialize complete at 10/17/2002 02:00:56 PM Or take his purse away and smack him with it. Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com 10/17/2002 07:18 AM Please respond to rv-list To: rv-list(at)matronics.com cc: Subject: RE: RV-List: This guy needs a good BLASTING! Jeez, sounds like he needs a good choking with his love beads. Well, I sent him a comment or two, just for fun! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russ Werner" <russ(at)maui.net>
Subject: Re: Rocket Insurance
Date: Oct 17, 2002
Tom, did the falcon quote have the $110K hull on it? Any other significant differences between the two coverage? This is actually great news for Rocket builders. Russ HRII > Avemco - $5719 > Falcon - $2500 > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russ Werner" <russ(at)maui.net>
Subject: Re: DAR Listing ???
Date: Oct 17, 2002
I'm with you on this one James. Other than the large fee, I'd say the easy pass was a good deal for the owner. You can get anyone to inspect it for flaws or airworthiness issues, but why complain about an easy inspection. My opinion only, I don't expect all 1500 of you to agree! Be careful what you wish for -- it may come true! Russ > When the DAR arrives, **HOPEFULLY** the plane has in fact been inspected > many times over by several different people, at different points along the > construction. > The point is at this stage in the process, the fee can be viewed in part as > a registration fee and a fee for inspection services rendered ... some of > which may be a bit lacking. > > Believe me, I **want** the inpector to find anything that may not be right > about the plane. I just think that we could end up in the other extreme > where planes FAIL because overly rigid inspector of the type mentioned > elsewhere on this list. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
Subject: Re: Manual Trim Slop
Date: Oct 17, 2002
The manual trim cable in my RV-8 has a *very* small amount of dead band (slop), I'm not even sure I could quantify it in terms of % of a turn, it would be something line a 64th of a turn. To lend one more opinion to the debate, I prefer manual trim due to the superior "feel" it provides. I had this point of view going into my RV-8 project based on my experience with other planes. After finishing and flying my plane I'm still glad I went this route. Randy Lervold RV-8, 271 hrs > > Interesting that you bring this up Paul, I have noticed that my manual trim > cable, not yet installed, seems to have about a half to three quarters of a > turn of slop (dead band) when I am playing with it on the bench. Does anyone > know if this is normal or should I see about getting another one from Van's > before I install it? > > Harry Crosby > Pleasanton, California > RV-6, electrical stuff ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Williams" <frate.dawg(at)attglobal.net>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Aux Fuel
Date: Oct 17, 2002
Keith: Good question. There was a chap on about ten days ago who is doing a Mazda rotary in an RV-9, and who alluded to having added extra fuel. This so piqued my interest that I asked him to share how he did it with me. Haven't heard from him since! Musta' been something I said! I don't have my wing kit yet, nor the large drawings, but it sure looks to me like you could switch the position of the tank outboard end-ribs with the adjacent wing nose ribs, and move the filler cap outboard to the next chamber, and pick up about two gallons (estimated) capacity on each side, or if you go two ribs out and use the whole of the next chamber, maybe as much as 3 1/2 gallons per side. Since this wing is stressed for utility category, it should have no trouble handling the scant extra weight. The weight is located right along the normal fuel CG index line, so no problems there, either. It will detract from your useful load a bit (people and baggage), but since when do you fly around with 50 lbs of baggage each? From an aerodynamic standpoint, engineers say that extra fuel carried as far outboard as possible is beneficial to the wing spar with regard to the bending moments and lessens stress on the spar. Regards, John Williams ----- Original Message ----- From: "Keith and Deanie Southard" <d.southard(at)verizon.net> Subject: RV9-List: Aux Fuel > --> RV9-List message posted by: "Keith and Deanie Southard" > > Has anyone added additinal fuel capacity other than the 8 1/2 gallon tip > tanks offered in Vans catalog? > > How much additional capacity can the wing carry out on the tips? How is > this going to affect useful load? I know in my Bonanza, tip tank fuel was > "free" in that a gross weight increase was allowed equal to the amount of > fuel carried. > > Keith Southard > RV9A > Empennage Done! > QB fuse and wings on the Boat > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Smcm75(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 17, 2002
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Aux Fuel
I am developing an external "drop tank/cargo pod" that would have only about a 2 lb penalty (attach points and plumbing) when the tank is not attached. The tank will have a capacity of approx. 18 gal and will attach directly under the belly onto the front and rear spar. A couple of pins will make for easy attach detach. The point is when you need extra fuel you can put the tank on, When you need extra baggage capacity you can put the baggage pod on. when you don't need either you can remove them and they is literally no weight or drag penalty. This tank/pod will fit RV-6, RV-6A, RV-7, RV-7A, RV-8, RV-8A. This thing looks neat (WW II style) and it is right on the center of gravity. Scott Morrow RV-6A 90% ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 17, 2002
From: Steve Eberhart <newtech(at)newtech.com>
Subject: Fuel pickup tube safetywire
I am working on fuel tanks on my RV-7. In installing the fuel pickup tube shouldn't the blue coupling nut be safety wired? Seems like an a lot of things we safety wired on military aircraft aren't safety wired on Experimental aircraft, or at least Van's aircraft. Didn't find anything in the archives. Steve Eberhart RV-7, working on fuel tanks Old Air Force instrument systems technician ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net>
Subject: Re: Rocket Insurance
Date: Oct 17, 2002
By the way, that EAA "program" is not exclusive to Falcon Agency, any insurance agent has that available as long as you're a current EAA member. John "JT" Helms ----- Original Message ----- From: "Russ Werner" <russ(at)maui.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: Rocket Insurance Tom, did the falcon quote have the $110K hull on it? Any other significant differences between the two coverage? This is actually great news for Rocket builders. Russ HRII > Avemco - $5719 > Falcon - $2500 > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Rocket Insurance
Date: Oct 17, 2002
Once I see the paperwork, I will post the differences bewteen the Avemco and Falcon policies. But yes, if I heard him correctly, the quote was for 110,000. The Falcon's medical coverage was better and the deductables were smaller. So far, things are looking good. Part of the quote was because I am a EAA member but don't know much it is. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Russ Werner" <russ(at)maui.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: Rocket Insurance > > Tom, did the falcon quote have the $110K hull on it? Any other significant > differences between the two coverage? This is actually great news for > Rocket builders. > > Russ > HRII > > > Avemco - $5719 > > Falcon - $2500 > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "guy" <gvotuc(at)direcway.com>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Aux Fuel link
Date: Oct 17, 2002
I believe this is the chap you were talking about... Most of this plane is GAS... http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm Guy ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Williams" <frate.dawg(at)attglobal.net> Subject: Re: RV9-List: Aux Fuel > --> RV9-List message posted by: "John Williams" > > Keith: Good question. There was a chap on about ten days ago who is doing > a Mazda rotary in an RV-9, and who alluded to having added extra fuel. This > so piqued my interest that I asked him to share how he did it with me. > Haven't heard from him since! Musta' been something I said! > > I don't have my wing kit yet, nor the large drawings, but it sure looks to > me like you could switch the position of the tank outboard end-ribs with the > adjacent wing nose ribs, and move the filler cap outboard to the next > chamber, and pick up about two gallons (estimated) capacity on each side, or > if you go two ribs out and use the whole of the next chamber, maybe as much > as 3 1/2 gallons per side. Since this wing is stressed for utility > category, it should have no trouble handling the scant extra weight. The > weight is located right along the normal fuel CG index line, so no problems > there, either. It will detract from your useful load a bit (people and > baggage), but since when do you fly around with 50 lbs of baggage each? > > From an aerodynamic standpoint, engineers say that extra fuel carried as far > outboard as possible is beneficial to the wing spar with regard to the > bending moments and lessens stress on the spar. > Regards, John Williams > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Keith and Deanie Southard" <d.southard(at)verizon.net> > To: > Subject: RV9-List: Aux Fuel > > > > --> RV9-List message posted by: "Keith and Deanie Southard" > > > > > Has anyone added additinal fuel capacity other than the 8 1/2 gallon tip > > tanks offered in Vans catalog? > > > > How much additional capacity can the wing carry out on the tips? How is > > this going to affect useful load? I know in my Bonanza, tip tank fuel was > > "free" in that a gross weight increase was allowed equal to the amount of > > fuel carried. > > > > Keith Southard > > RV9A > > Empennage Done! > > QB fuse and wings on the Boat > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 17, 2002
Subject: Re: marker beacon & transponder antenna placement


October 11, 2002 - October 17, 2002

RV-Archive.digest.vol-np