RV-Archive.digest.vol-np
October 11, 2002 - October 17, 2002
> > nipple (that looks like a
> > grease fitting) on my brake really a grease fitting,
> > or is it used for
> > bleeding the brakes?
> > >
> > > ANY tips will be greatly appreciated.
> > >
> >
> >
> > -------------------------------------------
> > Introducing NetZero Long Distance
> > Unlimited Long Distance only $29.95/ month!
> > Sign Up Today! www.netzerolongdistance.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Contributions of
> > any other form
> >
> > latest messages.
> > other List members.
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> > http://www.matronics.com/search
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More
> http://faith.yahoo.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Bleeding Brakes |
Steve,
I'm curious - did you see the large number of responses to your
questions on the RV-List to the brake bleeding question you posted on
the RV4-List? Any message posted to one of the RV model specific
list also gets posted to the main RV List. Any responses to the copy
of the message that goes to the main RV List only go to the main RV
List - they don't go back to the RV model specific list, so I would
imagine that the person who asked the original question may never see
the flurry of answers.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (cowling, wing tip lights)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html
>
>Another question about RV brakes. I noticed Van's sells milspec fluid which
>is red. The small amount of fluid that was left in my system was not red,
>more of a light oil color. Should I get the red stuff?
>
>Thanks folks...
>
>Steve Mullins, Ph.D.
>Associate Professor of Economics
>Drury University
>417.889.5609 (home)
>417.873.7299 (office)
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Steve Mullins" <smullins(at)drury.edu>
>To:
>Subject: RV4-List: Bleeding Brakes
>
>
>> --> RV4-List message posted by: "Steve Mullins"
>>
>> Hi everyone.
>>
>> After having a close encounter with a hangar on our airstrip, I suppose
>it is time for me do deal with that soft left brake pedal. Unfortunately, I
>know nothing about how to bleed brakes (except for the obvious need to
>replace air with brake fluid.)
>>
>> Do I need any special tools to do this? Is the nipple (that looks like a
>grease fitting) on my brake really a grease fitting, or is it used for
>bleeding the brakes?
>>
>> ANY tips will be greatly appreciated.
>>
>> Thanks in advance!
>>
>> Steve Mullins, Ph.D.
>> Associate Professor of Economics
>> Drury University
>> 417.889.5609 (home)
> > 417.873.7299 (office)
>>
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: Special N-Number |
Takes about a week and a half. If your first choice shows up as available
when you check it, it probably is. The system updates daily. Just keep
checking your first choice every day. One day it will pop up as belonging
to you and your letter will follow shortly.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
RV6 N296JC(res)
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Taylor" <david(at)hom.net>
Subject: RV-List: Special N-Number
>
> I have reserved a special N-Number online with the FAA registry. Does
anyone know approximately how long it will take before the FAA notifies me?
I'm really curious to find out if I got my first choice as it has a great
significance to me.
>
> Thanks,
>
> -David Taylor
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Kitz" <JKITZ1(at)columbus.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Bleeding Brakes |
Exactly the way I do mine and it works great.
JOhn Kitz
N721JK
Ohio
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV4-List: Bleeding Brakes
>
> Steve, I bleed my brakes by filling them fron the bottom at the
calipers.
> Just loosen the valve a turn or so and feed into the system from there.
Now
> you want to know how right? Well, get yourself an oilcan that you can pump
> oil out with the trigger, next take a piece of neoprene hose that will fit
on
> the outlet of the oil can and secure it on the can with a clamp or tywrap.
> Now place the hose on the valve ( you need to have a snug fit here)
Remove
> the resevoir cap.Now just pump the brake fluid in and have a buddy check
> the brake resevoir to let you know when it is full.(usually when it
> overflows) Then tighten the valve up and your system will be full. It will
> pump through the cylinder and reach the fluid resevoir.Do each side. Thats
> the way I have done it and it works just fine. Put a rag below the
resevoir
> to catch the spilled fluid. DON'T forget to take the rag out of the engine
> compartment as it could cause problems. Hope this helps,Jim RV-4 # 111
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Francis Malczynski" <ebbfmm(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Polished spinner question |
I mounted mine with stainless panhead screws with a nylon washer underneath.
Used the nylon washers after being told that this could prevent cracking in
the future. Looked at some spam mounted polished AL spinners and sure
enough, they have thin nylon washers underneath each screw. It does look
good.
Fran Malczynski
RV6 - N594EF (taxi testing)
Olcott, NY
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of czechsix(at)juno.com
Subject: RV-List: Polished spinner question
Guys,
Does anyone have one of the polished spinners that George Orndorff sells,
and if so, how did you mount it? Panhead screws? Flush screws with
Tinnermans? Countersunk or dimpled?
On a related subject, how does the Sensenich metal spinner attachment work?
Seems like if I dimple the spinner and bulkheads it would be difficult if
not impossible to remove/install it....
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D not even close to mounting my spinner, but pondering the options
nonetheless....
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Rudder Pedal Return Springs |
unless it is a very smooth day here I have to keep pressure on the pedals or
my tail gets a waggin...
-Bill
www.vondane.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rudder Pedal Return Springs
>
>
> >
> >I have a question: Do RVs use rudder pedal return springs?
>
> The overhead rudder pedal versions do not.
>
> >I can't
> >remember seeing any before, but I was asked the question by an EAA Tech
> >Counselor recently and I had no good answer for him except that I didn't
> >think so. If so, how do they attach and if not, how do the rudder pedals
> >return to neutral
>
> Airflow over the rudder.
>
> >(can the pilot take his feet off of them during cruise to
> >stretch without the airplane going "elsewhere?"
>
> Yes
>
> > Thanks in advance.
> >
> >Ken Brooks
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
>
> RV-6 N441LP Flying
> http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: rv6a tail tie down |
Not sure about the -6A, but I put mine forward one bulkhead on my -8A...
http://www.vondane.com/tt&i/index.htm#reartiedown
-Bill
www.vondane.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "mark beck" <markabeck(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: rv6a tail tie down
>
> I am having trouble finding a suitable attachment point for the wd-627 tie
> down ring on the 6a. Van's says that it goes on the aft side of the rear
> bulkhead F-612 under the rudder hinge bracket. Two problems: there is not
> enough clearance for the lower rudder cap and it puts the shank of the eye
> squarely on the lower bolt for the vertical stabilizer. I can move the
ring
> to the left, or move the stab bolt to the left and drill for two new bolts
> to the right of the original bolt hole in the stab and bulkhead for the
tie
> down weldment, but that still does not satisfy the clearance problem. Or I
> could chop off the front of the rudder cap and rebuild it a little
shorter.
> Any suggestions?
>
>
> Mark Beck
> rv6a builder
> Fort Wayne, IN
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Rudder Pedal Return Springs |
I have an RV-4 with an RV-8 tail. I have just started the test flights and
have noticed the same tail wag if I take my feet of the ruder pedals as you
mentioned. I have been thinking that the problem was with the balanced ruder
or perhaps some small differences in the tip fairings. The problem gets worse
-- needs more foot pressure -- in rough air. I have been thinking of springs
but I have no idea how much pressure I would need, and where I would connect
them given the small space available behind the rudder pedals in a -4. Other
than this, the plane flies great. Any ideas or suggestions greatly
appreciated.
Ray Grenier
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Earl Fortner <efortner(at)vnet.net> |
Subject: | Re:Bleeding Brakes |
Ford or GM Fluid? Does it make a difference?
Earl RV4
Cy Galley wrote:
>
> Dot 5 is silicone based and will not attack rubber. It does have a down
> side. You can't paint any surface that the fluid touches. Dave Ronnenberg
> uses automatic transmission fluid. Says it is better the 5606 as it doesn't
> get sticky and is very cheap with a flash point higher than 5606. He also
> bans all dot 5 from his shop for the painting and bonding problem.
>
> Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
>
> Editor, EAA Safety Programs
> cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
>
> Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Kitz" <JKITZ1(at)columbus.rr.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:Bleeding Brakes
>
> >
> > I have read this for years on the list, but I filled my -4 with Dot 5
> > automotive brake fluid 7 years ago and it has worked perfect since. How
> can
> > anyone say it is not good to use?
> > John Kitz
> > N721JK
> > Ohio
> > 540 hours using Dot 5
> >
> > >
> > > Positively use ONLY aircraft red brake fluid !!!!
> > > Automotive brake fluid is glycerine based and will really mess-up your
> > brake
> > > system.
> > > If you aren't sure about how to go about it: pay an A&P to show you,and
> do
> > > the job.
> > > Brakes are critical.
> > > You didn't say which type aircraft,but most will be same procedure.
> > >
> > >
> > > RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
> > > Charleston, Arkansas
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Polished spinner question |
How much heavier is the AL spinner over the fiberglass?
-LB
--- Francis Malczynski wrote:
>
> I mounted mine with stainless panhead screws with a nylon washer underneath.
> Used the nylon washers after being told that this could prevent cracking in
> the future. Looked at some spam mounted polished AL spinners and sure
> enough, they have thin nylon washers underneath each screw. It does look
> good.
>
> Fran Malczynski
> RV6 - N594EF (taxi testing)
> Olcott, NY
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of czechsix(at)juno.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Polished spinner question
>
>
> Guys,
>
> Does anyone have one of the polished spinners that George Orndorff sells,
> and if so, how did you mount it? Panhead screws? Flush screws with
> Tinnermans? Countersunk or dimpled?
>
> On a related subject, how does the Sensenich metal spinner attachment work?
> Seems like if I dimple the spinner and bulkheads it would be difficult if
> not impossible to remove/install it....
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A N2D not even close to mounting my spinner, but pondering the options
> nonetheless....
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More
http://faith.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Polished spinner question |
Send an e-mail to George or Becky. I have the spinner and I believe what
they recommended (and what I used) was a stainless panhead screw with flat
washers that don't stick too far outside the diameter of the head. They
look great (as does the spinner).
Rick Jory RV8A
----- Original Message -----
From: <czechsix(at)juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: Polished spinner question
>
> Guys,
>
> Does anyone have one of the polished spinners that George Orndorff sells,
and if so, how did you mount it? Panhead screws? Flush screws with
Tinnermans? Countersunk or dimpled?
>
> On a related subject, how does the Sensenich metal spinner attachment
work? Seems like if I dimple the spinner and bulkheads it would be
difficult if not impossible to remove/install it....
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A N2D not even close to mounting my spinner, but pondering the options
nonetheless....
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Subject: | Re:Bleeding Brakes |
All I know it was red ATF fluid that Dave used at the repair barn at the
convention in Oshkosh.
You might try this address to contact Dave vcruse(at)earthlink.net
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Earl Fortner" <efortner(at)vnet.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:Bleeding Brakes
>
> Ford or GM Fluid? Does it make a difference?
> Earl RV4
>
> Cy Galley wrote:
>
> >
> > Dot 5 is silicone based and will not attack rubber. It does have a down
> > side. You can't paint any surface that the fluid touches. Dave
Ronnenberg
> > uses automatic transmission fluid. Says it is better the 5606 as it
doesn't
> > get sticky and is very cheap with a flash point higher than 5606. He
also
> > bans all dot 5 from his shop for the painting and bonding problem.
> >
> > Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
> >
> > Editor, EAA Safety Programs
> > cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
> >
> > Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "John Kitz" <JKITZ1(at)columbus.rr.com>
> > To:
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:Bleeding Brakes
> >
> > >
> > > I have read this for years on the list, but I filled my -4 with Dot 5
> > > automotive brake fluid 7 years ago and it has worked perfect since.
How
> > can
> > > anyone say it is not good to use?
> > > John Kitz
> > > N721JK
> > > Ohio
> > > 540 hours using Dot 5
> > >
> > > >
> > > > Positively use ONLY aircraft red brake fluid !!!!
> > > > Automotive brake fluid is glycerine based and will really mess-up
your
> > > brake
> > > > system.
> > > > If you aren't sure about how to go about it: pay an A&P to show
you,and
> > do
> > > > the job.
> > > > Brakes are critical.
> > > > You didn't say which type aircraft,but most will be same procedure.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
> > > > Charleston, Arkansas
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Special N-Number |
On a similar subject, plan ahead for your request for the permanent
registration. I'm sitting around awaiting my fed paperwork and can't
schedule my DAR until I have this in hand!
Rick Jory RV8A
----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry Calvert <rv6(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Special N-Number
>
> Takes about a week and a half. If your first choice shows up as available
> when you check it, it probably is. The system updates daily. Just keep
> checking your first choice every day. One day it will pop up as belonging
> to you and your letter will follow shortly.
>
> Jerry Calvert
> Edmond Ok
> RV6 N296JC(res)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "David Taylor" <david(at)hom.net>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Special N-Number
>
>
> >
> > I have reserved a special N-Number online with the FAA registry. Does
> anyone know approximately how long it will take before the FAA notifies
me?
> I'm really curious to find out if I got my first choice as it has a great
> significance to me.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > -David Taylor
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Original-Encoded-Information-Types: IA5-Text
From: | Jim Truitt <Jim.Truitt(at)usdoj.gov> |
Subject: | RV-List Digest: 68 Msgs - 10/10/02 -Reply |
I just ordered a new engine ( O-360 carb ) from Aero Sport Power on
Tuesday of this week. The price is $19,990.00. They actually have
lowered their price since June this year, sort of. The price was
$20,800.00. Not included in the $19.990.00 price is the 40 amp
alternator, which was included in the earlier price. Also extra is a
$100.00 crating charge, a $75.00 U.S. Customs charge, and ,of course,
shipping. (Aero Sport gets very cheap shipping prices through some
shippers - less than $200.00 to Indianapolis)
I spoke to a Sue Gregor, who is very nice and helpful. Delivery may be
only 4-5 weeks.
Jim Truitt
RV8A QB (working)
N627TT reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Bleeding Brakes |
Hi Jim;
Hmmmm, could be. I remember adding something even
less hydraulic and more "organic" than that one time
in a pinch. Definitely had to purge the brakes when I
got home though! The only funny part was watching this
old dude passerby as we "relieved ourselves" of brake
fluid into a coke bottle and poured it into the Scouts
resevoir....
RR
--- James Lawliss wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: "James Lawliss"
>
>
> Hey, rob ray, I think I once was party to actually
> adding auto tranny fluid
> to a Citabria's brake line a few years back. Ever
> hear of such a thing?
> Jim
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "rob ray" <smokyray(at)yahoo.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV4-List: Bleeding Brakes
>
>
> > --> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray
>
> >
> > Also make sure your master cyllinders weren't
> > installed upside down, then the procedure below
> will
> > have to add: remove master cyllinders from pedals,
> > invert and then apply listed procedure...
> >
> > RR
> > --- flyseaplane wrote:
> > > --> RV4-List message posted by: "flyseaplane"
> > >
> > >
> > > Dr. Mullins,
> > >
> > > Any Mil Spec H-5606 aircraft hydraulic fluid
> will be
> > > fine. You can probably
> > > get some from your friendly neighborhood A&P or
> FBO.
> > >
> > > That thing that looks like a grease fitting is
> the
> > > bleeder screw. It should
> > > be on the bottom of the caliper with the brake
> line
> > > on top. You will be
> > > pumping fluid in from the bottom, pushing all
> the
> > > air bubbles out the top,
> > > on up to the master cylinder and out the top of
> the
> > > master cylinder.
> > >
> > > Get yourself a large (at least 16 ounces) pump
> type
> > > oil can and fill it with
> > > the H-5606. Loosen the bleeder screw on the
> bottom
> > > of the caliper with a
> > > 1/4" wrench (you may need to use the box end to
> get
> > > it cracked loose) and
> > > drain all the old fluid into a can or bowl. Pump
> > > that side brake pedal a few
> > > times to get all the fluid out. Wrap a bunch of
> rags
> > > around the master
> > > cylinder to catch the over flow. Use a piece of
> > > small hose to connect the
> > > oil pump can to the bleeder screw. Have a buddy
> > > watch the master cylinder to
> > > holler once it is full. Start pumping the oil
> can
> > > quickly to get all the
> > > bubbles moved up and out and when your friend
> yells,
> > > then stop pumping and
> > > tighten the screw so the fluid doesn't run out.
> > >
> > > Some H-5606 has more red dye in it, some less.
> It
> > > doesn't matter. It all
> > > turns brown after a while because the die
> > > deteriorates. Make CERTAIN that
> > > the brake fluid now in your cylinders is not
> > > glycerin-based automotive DOT3
> > > brake fluid - that stuff will eat all your seals
> and
> > > O-rings. Then you will
> > > need to rebuild all the parts in the brake
> system.
> > > H-5606 is petroleum based
> > > oil and really isn't much more than light weight
> > > motor oil. It is usually
> > > very available locally.
> > >
> > > Good Luck,
> > > Linc
> > >
> > >
> > > After having a close encounter with a hangar on
> our
> > > airstrip, I suppose it
> > > is time for me do deal with that soft left brake
> > > pedal. Unfortunately, I
> > > know nothing about how to bleed brakes (except
> for
> > > the obvious need to
> > > replace air with brake fluid.)
> > > >
> > > > Do I need any special tools to do this? Is the
> > > nipple (that looks like a
> > > grease fitting) on my brake really a grease
> fitting,
> > > or is it used for
> > > bleeding the brakes?
> > > >
> > > > ANY tips will be greatly appreciated.
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > > -------------------------------------------
> > > Introducing NetZero Long Distance
> > > Unlimited Long Distance only $29.95/ month!
> > > Sign Up Today! www.netzerolongdistance.com
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Contributions of
> > > any other form
> > >
> > > latest messages.
> > > other List members.
> > >
> > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> > > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> > > http://www.matronics.com/search
> > > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More
> > http://faith.yahoo.com
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
http://health.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | P M Condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
Subject: | Dynon EFIS D-10 data |
Ken, this is a good URL. But....If you went to www.dynondevelopment.com
as the starting point, there is no hyperlink or way to navigate to the
URL page you found from the entry page. (Unless my Netscape is lying to
me......)
Subject: RE: RV-List: Dynon EFIS D-10 data ??
From: "Ken Simmons" <ken(at)truckstop.com>
How about this?
http://www.dynondevelopment.com/docs/contact.html
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
Original-Encoded-Information-Types: IA5-Text
From: | Jim Truitt <Jim.Truitt(at)usdoj.gov> |
Subject: | Special N Number |
I applied for and received my reserved N number earlier this year. I did it
over the FAA web site. Seems like it took about 2 weeks to get the
confirmation by snail mail.
If I recall correctly, I paid the $10 by credit card. I noticed the charge on
my card statement before I got the confirmation letter. This indicated that
I got at least one of my choices, since they charged my card. Then I did
an N number inquiry on their web site and found my first choice was
reserved in my name.
Or, just do the inquiry each day.
________________________________________________________________________________
Original-Encoded-Information-Types: IA5-Text
From: | Jim Truitt <Jim.Truitt(at)usdoj.gov> |
Subject: | RV-List Digest: Aircraft financing |
I checked regular aircraft financing (April 2002) and wasn't real
impressed with the rates, or with certain requirements (like borrow now
for the kit, come back later for engine and instruments, renegotiate the
loan, etc.)
I borrowed the equity in my house at low interest rates (very low now)
and against my retirement plan at less than 5%. The home loan interest
is tax deductable, and I use the money only as I need it. You use the
money by simply writing a check, and interest on the loan is only on what
you have used - yet the whole amount is available.
I don't own my house or retirement, but, by God, the plane is all mine!
________________________________________________________________________________
Just a note on our progress at Dynon:
While progress has been slow, we have been making steady
progress. We recently installed our first "alpha test"
instrument and are working with some other local builders
to get instruments in their planes. These installations
are in addition to the work we are doing on our own test
airplane. The response from our first alpha tester after
flying the unit on several flights: "You're going to sell
a ton of these!" We'll update our web site with some
pictures in the near future.
Current status:
Attitude is working well;
Airspeed is working very nicely;
Altimeter is working and we have some improvements on the way;
Turn rate and slip/skid are working but need further testing;
Initial AOA testing has been very positive and exciting;
Heading is still causing us problems due to problems with
properly sensing the magnetic fields. Dealing with magnetic
interference in the airplane has proven difficult. We want to
have the correct heading for all reasonable flight maneuvers
and this turns out be a thorny 3-D problem dealing with
both sensor calibration and dealing with interference from
the airframe;
Many of the menu functions are implemented, but not all. It's
really getting fun to show the unit to customers and show
them the level of sophistication this instrument has built
into it!
Calibration of the sensors (other than magnetic!) is becoming
routine. We cool each unit to below -20 degrees C and heat
it up to +50 degrees C. We rotate the unit in all three
axes at various temperatures and use the data to get the
calibration tables that are stored in the unit.
We are in the process of setting up our manufacturing facility
to produce the EFIS-D10 in a controlled fashion with a high
level of quality. While we are a young company, the past
manufacturing experience of several of us working here will
help us in this process.
Regarding emails and web site updating: We try to answer all
emails within a week. While this may result in a somewhat slow
response to some, we are doing our best to stay focused on
getting the EFIS-D10 finished. Web site updates fall into the
same category -- we are working on an update that will reflect
the current displays on the instrument. We hope to have this
done within a week.
Delivery schedule: We have found it pretty much impossible to
schedule the development of this project. Whether this is due
to poor planning capability on our part, or just the result of
developing a very sophisticated instrument cannot be easily
determined. We are hoping to be in production by December 1st.
While this is a continued slip from past dates, we can only
assure you that we are working hard and making progress. We
ask for your continued patience.
Please feel free to contact us at anytime -- we promise to get
back to you. If you want more technical information than is
available on our website, feel free to contact me directly at:
doug(at)dynondevelopment.com.
Thanks,
Doug Medema
Director of Engineering
Dynon Development
RV-6A N276DM reserved. Finishing up the panel!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Dynon EFIS D-10 data |
Actually you can, but it's not immediately obvious how.
If you go to the website, at the bottom of the "Menu" is a little "-"
visible? Mouse over it, and you'll see the cursor change to something
that indicates there's a link there.
It's just a Website glitch, i've notified the Dynon webmaster so he/she
can get it fixed.
-RB4
P M Condon wrote:
>
>
> Ken, this is a good URL. But....If you went to www.dynondevelopment.com
> as the starting point, there is no hyperlink or way to navigate to the
> URL page you found from the entry page. (Unless my Netscape is lying to
> me......)
>
>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Dynon EFIS D-10 data ??
> From: "Ken Simmons" <ken(at)truckstop.com>
>
>
> How about this?
>
> http://www.dynondevelopment.com/docs/contact.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner(at)wans.net> |
Subject: | Re: Painting Checkerboards |
>
> What's the easiest way to mask/paint a checkerboard pattern?
>
> -Don
> RV8 NJ
Dear Don,
Go to a Sign Shop that spezializes in making Vinyl-Banners. Talk to them
about a checkboard pattern on vinyl (either just as a template, or perhaps
as the permanent contrast itself).
A Pilot Buddy of mine owns "Ace Signs" and does just Vinyl, so I do know
that this would work fast and efficiently (by applying all squares at once
in proper relation to each other)
Feel free to contact me Off-List for more details on the application.
Thanks,
Konrad
ABQ-NM
DO NOT ARCHIVE
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | tchoug <tchoug(at)micron.com> |
Subject: | Dynon EFIS D-10 data |
Sure there is. There is a "Contact" link at the bottom of the dark blue
sidebar menu.
Todd
-----Original Message-----
From: P M Condon [mailto:pcondon(at)mitre.org]
Subject: RE: RV-List: Dynon EFIS D-10 data
Ken, this is a good URL. But....If you went to www.dynondevelopment.com
as the starting point, there is no hyperlink or way to navigate to the
URL page you found from the entry page. (Unless my Netscape is lying to
me......)
Subject: RE: RV-List: Dynon EFIS D-10 data ??
From: "Ken Simmons" <ken(at)truckstop.com>
How about this?
http://www.dynondevelopment.com/docs/contact.html
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Special N-Number |
In a message dated 10/10/2002 8:15:24 PM Pacific Daylight Time, david(at)hom.net
writes:
> I have reserved a special N-Number online with the FAA registry. Does anyone
> know approximately how long it will take before the FAA notifies me? I'm
> really curious to find out if I got my first choice as it has a great
> significance to me.
>
> Thanks,
>
> -David Taylor
>
Call them they wil tell you
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Haan <bhaan(at)easystreet.com> |
Subject: | Email Address 4 John Ciolino |
Looking for the email address for John B. Ciolino
Bob
RV6A almost
http://easystreet.com/~bhaan/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: Painting Checkerboards |
Tim,
I saw and talked to you at OSH. Your checker board is the best I have
ever seen. Two things:
1. Can you elaborate on "application paper" that you mentioned?
2. Did you paint the tail white, then pull out every other square of a
black back ground, then stick the remaining black checker board onto the
white tail, then clear over that?
Barry Pote RV9a finishing
Go to a Graphics shop and have them cut horizontal and vertical lines in
the
> vinyl sheet, remove every other square. Apply some application paper and now
> you have a big checker board sticker. Apply that to your rudder or what ever
> and shoot some clear coat on it. this worked very well for me and looks great
>
> Good Luck
> Tim Barnes
> Meangreen RV-4.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: New or Rebuilt? |
From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
JC,
Theoretically if you buy a $5000 engine it would be a runout core which you would
send in for overhaul, and the shop would charge you for the parts/labor cost
which would probably come out to about $12K....so you'd still have $17 K in
the engine, plus or minus a bit depending on options and where the overhaul is
done. Probly easier just to get one from Bart at Aerosport if you can, and save
the hassle of getting a core and shipping it to him. Only problem is that
O-360 cores (good ones without prop strikes or other problems) are hard to find.
I got a first-run O-360 from Air Salvage of Dallas. It had some rust as it had
sat around unpreserved after being removed for overhaul, but most of it was light
enough that it could be cleaned up (especially the crank which is worth about
$4K and is by far the most expensive part of the engine, so make SURE it's
serviceable if you go that route). I paid Air Salvage of Dallas a total of
$6500 and that included all the accessories, plus they threw in a vacuum system,
alternator, elec boost pump, and some other odds and ends. I sold most of
it on eBay and sent the engine core to Bart. He swapped my solid crank out for
a CS crank and rods with only 900 hours TTSN on them. And he put some jugs
with 1400 TTSN on it. Carb has 75 hours TTSN. Used the same first-run case,
put in new pistons and bearings, reman fuel pump, and dual crank-triggered Lightspeed
ignitions. I don't remember exactly what the bill from Aerosport was...somewhere
a little over $10K. I figured out that the grand total investment
in my engine including core, less parts sold on eBay, plus Aerosport's bill and
shipping is around $16,500. An equivalent engine straight from Bart including
shipping to the midwest U.S. would be a little over $18K, so for all my trouble
I saved around $1500. I feel I've got a great engine with low-time components
at a good price (relatively speaking). However you could save yourself
time and hassle in exchange for that $1500 savings if Bart can find a good core
for you...
Hope this helps.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D canopy skirts (still)
From: JCTV <jctv(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: New or Rebuilt?
I'm in the early stages of my RV-7A and I am starting
my search for an engine. I want to go with a Lycoming
O-360 that is new or rebuilt to "new Limits".
My question is this: Is there any advantage to buying
a runout engine and having it overhauled? Vans new
engines are $23000 and a good new limits overhaul is
around $17000. So if I do the math, unless I can find
an engine for $5000 or less, I should go new?
Am I missing something?
JC
Emp.- RV-7A
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Special N-Number |
From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
David,
I tried to get N7R before I got N2D, and it took over a week to get a notice in
the mail that I did not get it. However I was able to check the FAA registration
database online and saw a day or two after I requested it that it had been
assigned to someone else, so even though you'll be officially notified by snail
mail you can probably tell pretty soon wether or not you were successful.
Odds are you probably got it unless it was one of the "cancelled/not assigned"
numbers that has to sit there for the two-year waiting period, during which
others may have also noticed it and waited to try and get it. Such was the case
with N7R....I put in for it online moments after midnight on the first day
it became available, but some guy in England of all places apparently beat me
to it. Not sure what he's going to do with it??
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D finishing forever, but already registered...
From: "David Taylor" <david(at)hom.net>
Subject: RV-List: Special N-Number
I have reserved a special N-Number online with the FAA registry. Does anyone know
approximately how long it will take before the FAA notifies me? I'm really
curious to find out if I got my first choice as it has a great significance to
me.
Thanks,
-David Taylor
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Polished spinner question |
From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Rick,
I did ask George O. and he said they use SS panhead screws, but he hadn't tried
dimpling and using flush screws and tinnerman washers, so he didn't know if it
would work or not. I saw a picture on the web of a Sensenich polished spinner
and as near as I could tell, it looked like it had flush screws/tinnerman washers.
But I don't know if it was countersunk like the fiberglass spinners are
or if it was dimpled.
Doesn't anyone on this list have a Sensenich spinner???
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D finishing....
----------------------------------------------------
Send an e-mail to George or Becky. I have the spinner and I believe what
they recommended (and what I used) was a stainless panhead screw with flat
washers that don't stick too far outside the diameter of the head. They
look great (as does the spinner).
Rick Jory RV8A
----- Original Message -----
From: <czechsix(at)juno.com>
To:
Subject: Polished spinner question
>
> Guys,
>
> Does anyone have one of the polished spinners that George Orndorff sells,
and if so, how did you mount it? Panhead screws? Flush screws with
Tinnermans? Countersunk or dimpled?
>
> On a related subject, how does the Sensenich metal spinner attachment
work? Seems like if I dimple the spinner and bulkheads it would be
difficult if not impossible to remove/install it....
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A N2D not even close to mounting my spinner, but pondering the options
nonetheless....
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Polished spinner question |
From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Larry,
I don't know exactly how much since I haven't weighed them to compare, but a "hand-weight-check"
between my AL spinner from Orndorff and my friend's Vans fiberglass
spinner says that the Al spinner is definitely noticeably heavier, I'd
guess at least half again as much as the fiberglass spinner.
Normally I'm anal about weight savings but in my case I've gotta have a polished
spinner cuz that's what the T-6A has. Besides, the more metal and the less
fiberglass on my airplane, the better : ) Although I will have to polish it...guess
ya can't have it all...
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D with T-6A paint scheme....sanding fiberglass and hating it
How much heavier is the AL spinner over the fiberglass?
-LB
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "flyseaplane" <flyseaplane(at)netzero.net> |
Subject: | RV4-List: Bleeding Brakes |
Hey Jim Lawless,
Yes, you can use ATF in a pinch. It will work fine, but it is thinner than
H-5606 so it will leak easier if you have a weak O-ring, or a sloppy master
cylinder won't pump as hard, but those are WORST CASE scenarios. It
shouldn't hurt a thing.
> to a Citabria's brake line a few years back. Ever hear of such a thing?
> Jim
-------------------------------------------
Introducing NetZero Long Distance
Unlimited Long Distance only $29.95/ month!
Sign Up Today! www.netzerolongdistance.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Windscreen defrost |
I enjoyed the recent thread on parking brakes and would
like to see a similar one on canopy defrosters.
If you have defrosting, do you use it? How often?
Would you do it again?
If you don't have one, do you wish you did? A lot,
or just once and a great while?
Thanks,
Doug Medema
RV-6A N276DM (reserved). Finishing panel.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
Subject: | Windscreen defrost |
posted by: dmedema(at)att.net
>
> I enjoyed the recent thread on parking brakes and would
> like to see a similar one on canopy defrosters.
>
> If you have defrosting, do you use it? How often?
> Would you do it again?
I have two little muffin fans directed up through the glareshield onto
the windscreen on my slider 6A, and I've used them quite a few times.
Never needed them in flight, but often after startup in the winter to
see during taxi.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 215 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "RW" <chiefs(at)teleport.com> |
Subject: | Re: Painting Checkerboards |
Don,
Your local sign shop ought to have masking (paper), or at least be able to
direct you to some. My plan is to cover the base color with masking paper,
mark the checks on the paper and cut out checks for the second color then
paint the second color and peel off the masking paper.
Dick White
RV-8 N94DW
Old Crow
Newport, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
,
Subject: | fuselage skin question |
RV-7 tailwheel tip-up
I'm about to rivet the side skins onto the aft fuselage, and there's a
noticeable gap between the bottom edges of the side skins and the bottom
skin. More than a fingernail's worth. I figure I can easily take the side
skins off and edge roll 'em a little bit, but I wanted to see if others have
had to do this or not. It sure doesn't look like the side skin edge will
lay flat against the bottom skin, even once riveted.
Of course just the other day I told somebody about the aileron skins and
this same situation...that the skin lays flat as you rivet it. But I wanted
to double check since it's sort of now or never (or else I'll have to drill
out rivets).
Any tips or perspective here is appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (fuselage)
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> |
Subject: | Rudder Pedal Return Springs |
I can remember reading about someone with this problem and it was cured by
squeezing down the trialing edge of the rudder. The same way you do to
correct a heavy wing, very gently and progressively until the problem gets
better. If the radius of the bend is a bit large, it seems to cause the
tail wag.
Joe Hine
C-FYTQ
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of GRENIER(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rudder Pedal Return Springs
I have an RV-4 with an RV-8 tail. I have just started the test flights and
have noticed the same tail wag if I take my feet of the ruder pedals as you
mentioned. I have been thinking that the problem was with the balanced ruder
or perhaps some small differences in the tip fairings. The problem gets
worse
-- needs more foot pressure -- in rough air. I have been thinking of
springs
but I have no idea how much pressure I would need, and where I would connect
them given the small space available behind the rudder pedals in a -4.
Other
than this, the plane flies great. Any ideas or suggestions greatly
appreciated.
Ray Grenier
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
,
Subject: | Re: fuselage skin question |
Nevermind...just took the skins off and clecoed them from the BOTTOM UP and
they sat nice and flat. Prior, I had clecoed them down the bulkhead sides
to the bottom (just because it was easier to do it that way). Simple
mistake.
)_( Dan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
;
Subject: RV-List: fuselage skin question
>
> RV-7 tailwheel tip-up
>
> I'm about to rivet the side skins onto the aft fuselage, and there's a
> noticeable gap between the bottom edges of the side skins and the bottom
> skin. More than a fingernail's worth. I figure I can easily take the
side
> skins off and edge roll 'em a little bit, but I wanted to see if others
have
> had to do this or not. It sure doesn't look like the side skin edge will
> lay flat against the bottom skin, even once riveted.
>
> Of course just the other day I told somebody about the aileron skins and
> this same situation...that the skin lays flat as you rivet it. But I
wanted
> to double check since it's sort of now or never (or else I'll have to
drill
> out rivets).
>
> Any tips or perspective here is appreciated.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D (fuselage)
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Heron <jerry(at)rchco.com> |
Subject: | RV Fuel Tank Leaks |
MY rv 6, has been flying about 450 hrs since complete. I was not the
builder. Last three years its been weeping fuel, at first not enough to
measure, but now about a gallon every 7 days from one tank. The other
tank is ok. Its more a cosmetic problem than unsafe; and I can leave
that tank empty except when going cross country... but that's not a fix.
Has anybody on the list had experience with someone who is familiar with
the RV, and could be hired to do a fix?
I'm located near Seattle, but the tank could be removed and shipped.
Thanks in advance
Jerry Heron
N277W
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
to DENVER & ALBUQUERQUE area pilots who are planning on going to Las Cruces
on the 26th
We have 3 RVs from Granby, CO leaving early Saturday morning. We're hoping
to meet up with folks along the way for a mass fly-in into Cruces.
Thinking of a Colorado join-up around 8:30 am, possibly in Alamosa and then
a New Mexico join-up around 9:30, perhaps in Belen. I remember a great
little pilot's cafe on the Belen airport. Is it still there?
Actually, all plans are wide open. Just looking for a fun weekend.
Write back if you think you want to join up for the ride.
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Ciolino <jbc2000(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Email Address 4 John Ciolino |
Bob,
It is jbc2000(at)earthlink.net
JBC
>
>Looking for the email address for John B. Ciolino
>
>
>Bob
>RV6A almost
>http://easystreet.com/~bhaan/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry2DT(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: rv6a tail tie down |
Mark...
I think all us -6a builders have dealt with the same problem. I just went
through it a month ago. I trimmed the flange sticking out past the bolt clear
down to the level of the welded bolt and was able to get clearance for the
entire bottom rudder fairing without chopping it up at all. But make sure
your fittings are screwed into the rudder within spec. I removed the lower VS
bolt, centered the eyebolt and drilled to holes for it. This gives 4 bolts
instead of 3 holding the VS in place and was okayed by Gus at Van's. Too bad
the manual didn't point this out... Oh well... Hope this helps..
Jerry Cochran
-6a finish kit
In a message dated 10/10/02 11:55:18 PM, rv6-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
<< From: "mark beck" <markabeck(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV6-List: rv6a tail tie down
--> RV6-List message posted by: "mark beck"
I am having trouble finding a suitable attachment point for the wd-627 tie
down ring on the 6a. Van's says that it goes on the aft side of the rear
bulkhead F-612 under the rudder hinge bracket. Two problems: there is not
enough clearance for the lower rudder cap and it puts the shank of the eye
squarely on the lower bolt for the vertical stabilizer. I can move the ring
to the left, or move the stab bolt to the left and drill for two new bolts
to the right of the original bolt hole in the stab and bulkhead for the tie
down weldment, but that still does not satisfy the clearance problem. Or I
could chop off the front of the rudder cap and rebuild it a little shorter.
Any suggestions?
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David Taylor" <david(at)hom.net> |
Subject: | Special N-Number |
Thanks for all the great responses. I'll check the website often for my N-Number
:)
-David
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
Can someone using the Skytech starter on a Lycoming tell me the size of the stud
where the large battery wire connects?
Thanks,
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 68 Msgs - 10/10/02 -Reply |
Jim Truitt wrote:
>
> I just ordered a new engine ( O-360 carb ) from Aero Sport Power on
> Tuesday of this week. The price is $19,990.00. They actually have
> lowered their price since June this year, sort of. The price was
> $20,800.00. Not included in the $19.990.00 price is the 40 amp
> alternator, which was included in the earlier price. Also extra is a
> $100.00 crating charge, a $75.00 U.S. Customs charge, and ,of course,
> shipping. (Aero Sport gets very cheap shipping prices through some
> shippers - less than $200.00 to Indianapolis)
> I spoke to a Sue Gregor, who is very nice and helpful. Delivery may be
> only 4-5 weeks.
>
> Jim Truitt
> RV8A QB (working)
> N627TT reserved
Not ready to buy my engine yet, but this sound like the one to go with. Will
the Vans Firewall forward kit finish off this engine on the plane?
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Working on the wings :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tom Barnes" <skytop(at)megsinet.net> |
Subject: | Van's windshield antennae |
Van's specs for the windshield antennae is approximately 23 inches. On my slider
RV-6, the center roll bar support is only 18 inches long. Can someone please
explain how to route the ribbon so as to not have a dangling end?
Thanks,
Tom Barnes -6
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Windscreen defrost |
In a message dated 10/11/2002 12:58:35 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
dmedema(at)att.net writes:
> I enjoyed the recent thread on parking brakes and would
> like to see a similar one on canopy defrosters.
>
> If you have defrosting, do you use it? How often?
> Would you do it again?
No, can't and yes, but then I live in California. I've flown in rain but
it's usually warm (relatively) here when it rains. I've flown in air down
as cold as -10deg C, but it was dry.
> If you don't have one, do you wish you did? A lot,
> or just once and a great while?
Maybe, sometimes quite a great deal other times not at all and ... can you
repeat the question?
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 572hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Skytech starter |
In a message dated 10/11/2002 7:58:27 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
rv9er(at)3rivers.net writes:
> Can someone using the Skytech starter on a Lycoming tell me the size of the
> stud where the large battery wire connects?
>
7.9375159mm
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 572hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jeff Point" <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Where's the World Wide Wing? |
Anybody know what happened to the World Wide Wing? It was just there
yesterday, now I just get a 404 page not found error. Server problems?
Doug?
Jeff Point
Milwaukee WI
RV-6 finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steve Mullins" <smullins(at)drury.edu> |
Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Bleeding Brakes |
Thanks to everyone who provided tips about bleeding my brakes....this list
is worth a million bucks!!!
Steve Mullins, Ph.D.
Associate Professor of Economics
Drury University
417.889.5609 (home)
417.873.7299 (office)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Chemical compatibility is taken from Parker Seals Reference Guide:
Nitrile (Buna-n) O-rings are standard in brake systems designed for aircraft,
have a max temp of 250 deg F and will withstand the following:
MIL-H-5606 Hydraulic Fluid
AutomaticTransmission Fluid
Petroleum/Mineral Oils and greases
Water
Glycol Coolants
Fuels
Silicone Oils, DOT 5 Auto Brake Fluid
Vegetable Oils
LP Gas
Viton (Fluorocarbon) O-rings have a max temp of 400 deg F and will withstand
the following:
MIL-H-5606 Hydraulic Fluid
AutomaticTransmission Fluid
Synthetic/Petroleum/Mineral Oils and greases
Glycol Coolants
Fuels
Silicone Oils, DOT 5 Auto Brake Fluid
Vegetable Oils
LP Gas
Oxygen
Naphtha
Malathion
Aromatic Solvents
Ethylene Propylene O-rings have a max temp of 275 deg F and will withstand
the following:
DOT 3, DOT 4 Auto Brake Fluids
Hot Water
Steam
Alcohols
Nitromethane
Ketones
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 572hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net> |
Subject: | Re: Van's windshield antennae |
Actually, you don't want it on the support bar - if you put it on the
windscreen you can get 23" from the bottom to the top.
Ed Bundy
> Van's specs for the windshield antennae is approximately 23 inches. On my
slider RV-6, the center roll bar support is only 18 inches long. Can
someone please explain how to route the ribbon so as to not have a dangling
end?
>
> Thanks,
> Tom Barnes -6
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV Fuel Tank Leaks |
Jerry:
From where is the fuel weeping?
If it's around a rivet, you can fix it yourself fairly easily. I assume
the weeping rivet(s) are on the bottom of the tank. If so, do the
following: Go to an auto parts store and buy Threadlocker Green for about
$5.00. Empty the fuel tank (flying it empty is more fun, but you can also
unscrew the quick drain and empty it into 5 gallon jerry-cans). Prepare a
piece of modelling clay about 1"x1" by flattening it, then put a 1/4" deep
cavity in the center (an AN5 bolt head makes a good tool for theis). Fill
the cavity with Threadlocker Green and apply the modelling clay to the
bottom skin so that the fluid filled cavity is directly over the offending
rivet. Tape the whole mish-mash in place with duct tape and leave it for 24
hours (longer if the weather is cold).
The Threadlocker Green penetrates all openings through which the fuel is
leaking through capillary action. When it hardens the leak is stopped.
Good luck.
George Kilishek
>From: Jerry Heron <jerry(at)rchco.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: RV Fuel Tank Leaks
>Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 15:53:43 -0700
>
>
>MY rv 6, has been flying about 450 hrs since complete. I was not the
>builder. Last three years its been weeping fuel, at first not enough to
>measure, but now about a gallon every 7 days from one tank. The other
>tank is ok. Its more a cosmetic problem than unsafe; and I can leave
>that tank empty except when going cross country... but that's not a fix.
>
>Has anybody on the list had experience with someone who is familiar with
>the RV, and could be hired to do a fix?
>I'm located near Seattle, but the tank could be removed and shipped.
>Thanks in advance
>Jerry Heron
>N277W
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
Subject: | Re: For Sale - Empennage Kit - RV-6 |
There's an RV-4 empennage and wing kit, nearly complete, for sale in Langley,
BC, Canada for CDN$2,200 (about US$1500). It's missing the horizontal stab
(lost along the way). Could this RV-6 tail be used in the construction of an
RV-4? My -6 tail kit had a lot of 400-series part numbers in it.
The two together would make a great deal for somebody. US$2,000 for the wings
and tail of an RV-4 "quick build."
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "RV4" <VansRV4GRVMJ(at)btinternet.com> |
Subject: | Re: For Sale - Empennage Kit - RV-6 |
Hi Tedd,
the -4 and the -6 use a different mounting of the horizontal stabiliser. I
don't think that the two are therefore compatible.
marcel
-4/g- rvmj
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
Subject: | Re: For Sale - Empennage Kit - RV-6 |
> the -4 and the -6 use a different mounting of the horizontal stabiliser. I
> don't think that the two are therefore compatible.
>
>
> marcel
Right, the -4 fuselage is narrower at the mounting point, isn't it?
Tedd
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | BrownScottA(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Empennage Electric Trim |
Listers,
I seem to remember that there was an electric trim retro-fit package that you
could buy that was different from that sold with Vans Kits. It had the trim
servo mounted in the aft fuselage and a cable running from there to the
elevator trim tab. Does anyone know where to purchase this?
Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
Subject: | Re: Empennage Electric Trim |
Gretz Aero sells 'em: http://www.gretzaero.com
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (fuselage)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <BrownScottA(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Empennage Electric Trim
>
> Listers,
>
> I seem to remember that there was an electric trim retro-fit package that
you
> could buy that was different from that sold with Vans Kits. It had the
trim
> servo mounted in the aft fuselage and a cable running from there to the
> elevator trim tab. Does anyone know where to purchase this?
>
> Scott
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner(at)wans.net> |
Subject: | Re: Empennage Electric Trim |
Scott,
Try GRETZ AERO at www.gretzaero.com
Konrad
----- Original Message -----
From: <BrownScottA(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Empennage Electric Trim
>
> Listers,
>
> I seem to remember that there was an electric trim retro-fit package that
you
> could buy that was different from that sold with Vans Kits. It had the
trim
> servo mounted in the aft fuselage and a cable running from there to the
> elevator trim tab. Does anyone know where to purchase this?
>
> Scott
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
Subject: | Re: Empennage Electric Trim |
>
>Listers,
>
>I seem to remember that there was an electric trim retro-fit package that you
>could buy that was different from that sold with Vans Kits. It had the trim
>servo mounted in the aft fuselage and a cable running from there to the
>elevator trim tab. Does anyone know where to purchase this?
>
>Scott
>
Gretz Aero. Contact info in the RV Yeller Pages.
http://www.sound.net/%7Ehartmann/yelrpage.htm
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (cowling, wing tip lights)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo(at)verizon.net> |
"Rocket List"
Guys and Gals,
Well, Avemco when off the deep end.
Last year was 4488.00 and this year
they want 5719.00.
Their quote is:
Bodily Injury and Property Damage for
100,00 each person;
1,000,000 property damgage;
1,000,000 each accident = 732.00
Aircraft damage In Flight for
110,000 value;
deductible:
500 NOT IN MOTION;
2,000 IN MOTION = 4954.00
Medical expenses for
1,000 each person = 33.00
Pilots:
Thomas L. Gummo - Com - IFR yes - Age 54 - TT 3500 - ME 3200 - RG 3200 - MM
80 - TW 150
Joseph P. Fitzgerald - ATP, ASMEL - IFR yes - Age 47 - TT 6130 - MM 7 - RG
2200 - TW 1600
Aircraft data:
N561FS
Harmon Rocket II, Engine IO-540 J4A5 80 Hours, Day VFR + (No strobes; but
nav, taxi, and landing lights; electric Attitude and DG), not painted.
Stored at APV, hangared yes.
Guess it is time to look for another company.
Tom Gummo
PS. if I had 5700 dollars laying around, it would be painted :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | [ Gary Crowder ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Gary Crowder
Subject: Tip-up canopy release mod
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/rv9er@3rivers.net.10.12.2002/index.html
--------------------------------------------
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
Subject: | RV6-N664SB FLIES--Finally!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! |
Hi All,
Just a very quick update to let you know that another fledgling has "left
the nest".
N664SB was signed off this morning by DAR Dale Gauger (DAR for American
Champion).
First flight was PHENOMENAL! FYI...I know why people don't post too many
details about their first flight, I'm too D#$mned excited right now to do
anything but walk around with this stupid grin contorting my face. Here's a
quick overview.
First of all, about my field. It's about 40' wide x 1800' long carved into
the middle of a corn field with trees at one end.
Test pilot was me, chase plane was unfairly a friend in a Decathlon. I
lined the plane up on the runway, pushed in the throttle, raised the tail,
and by the time I had a chance to move my eyes from the runway to the
airspeed indicator I was flying! Climbing out at 120 produced a
1500+/minute climb, and I busted right against the MSP Class B airspace
(2300') before I could even think! On top of that the plane was
accelerating like mad, when I started (quite drastically) to level out at
2250', I was already passing 140 on the speedo!
Flew south to get out from under the B airspace and gain some altitude.
Climbed to 4000', practiced some turns, small standard rate to begin with,
but the plane soon forced me into some steeper turns. Setup for some
stalls, and performed a regiment of stalls. No good details on stalls, but
I can tell you the plane flies hands off with the ball perfectly centered.
Stalls were abrupt, no buffet, but also NO wing drop. Just a quick break
straight ahead.
Goofed around some more and headed back to the airport for landing. Since
my runway is somewhat "size limited", I didn't have the luxury of carrying a
bucket load of extra speed.
Flared with some power, and firmly planted myself back on earth. Touchdown
to stop was WAYYYY less than half the runway! Not a perfect sqeaker, but
then again I wasn't carrying any speed for floating. At this point I don't
give a crap, it was perfect to the guy in the cockpit! Directional control
is fine, and visibility is wonderful except in the flare.
Anyway, I'm too excited to keep going. Got to go make some phone calls to
brag!
Keep up pounding those rivits, It's well worth it. WHAT AN AMAZING airplane!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6, N664SB
FLYING! (what a feeling to type that in this space).
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Paulbaird(at)aol.com |
Subject: | cessna 300 navcom schematic |
Listers,
Does anyone know where I can get a schematic for an old cessna 300
navcom? Don't worry I am not putting it in my RV!
thanks,
Paul
flying RV-9A
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | [ Chuck and C. David Rowbotham ] : New Email List Photo Share |
Available!
From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Chuck and C. David Rowbotham
Subject: RV-8A Paint - Blue Angles - N712CR
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/David_Rowbotham@dom.com.10.12.2002/index.html
--------------------------------------------
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--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | [ Kevin ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Kevin
Subject: Sledge Powered Dimpler
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/rv8r300@attbi.com.10.12.2002/index.html
--------------------------------------------
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Curt Hoffman" <choffman9(at)cinci.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV6-N664SB FLIES--Finally!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! |
Congratulations. Sounds like a great experience wonderful first flight.
Another 10 - 20 years I'll join you.
Curt Hoffman
RV-9A wings
1968 Mustang 302 convertible
Piper Cherokee N5320W
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV6-N664SB FLIES--Finally!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>
> Hi All,
>
> Just a very quick update to let you know that another fledgling has "left
> the nest".
>
> N664SB was signed off this morning by DAR Dale Gauger (DAR for American
> Champion).
>
> First flight was PHENOMENAL! FYI...I know why people don't post too many
> details about their first flight, I'm too D#$mned excited right now to do
> anything but walk around with this stupid grin contorting my face. Here's
a
> quick overview.
>
> First of all, about my field. It's about 40' wide x 1800' long carved
into
> the middle of a corn field with trees at one end.
>
> Test pilot was me, chase plane was unfairly a friend in a Decathlon. I
> lined the plane up on the runway, pushed in the throttle, raised the tail,
> and by the time I had a chance to move my eyes from the runway to the
> airspeed indicator I was flying! Climbing out at 120 produced a
> 1500+/minute climb, and I busted right against the MSP Class B airspace
> (2300') before I could even think! On top of that the plane was
> accelerating like mad, when I started (quite drastically) to level out at
> 2250', I was already passing 140 on the speedo!
>
> Flew south to get out from under the B airspace and gain some altitude.
> Climbed to 4000', practiced some turns, small standard rate to begin with,
> but the plane soon forced me into some steeper turns. Setup for some
> stalls, and performed a regiment of stalls. No good details on stalls,
but
> I can tell you the plane flies hands off with the ball perfectly centered.
> Stalls were abrupt, no buffet, but also NO wing drop. Just a quick break
> straight ahead.
>
> Goofed around some more and headed back to the airport for landing. Since
> my runway is somewhat "size limited", I didn't have the luxury of carrying
a
> bucket load of extra speed.
>
> Flared with some power, and firmly planted myself back on earth.
Touchdown
> to stop was WAYYYY less than half the runway! Not a perfect sqeaker, but
> then again I wasn't carrying any speed for floating. At this point I
don't
> give a crap, it was perfect to the guy in the cockpit! Directional
control
> is fine, and visibility is wonderful except in the flare.
>
> Anyway, I'm too excited to keep going. Got to go make some phone calls to
> brag!
>
> Keep up pounding those rivits, It's well worth it. WHAT AN AMAZING
airplane!
>
> Cheers,
> Stein Bruch
> RV6, N664SB
> FLYING! (what a feeling to type that in this space).
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
Subject: | Fw: RV6-List: RV6-N664SB FLIES--Finally!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! |
Stein,
Here's the obvious... "CONGRATULATIONS" now go out & have ALL the FUN
you want.
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Stein Bruch <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: RV6-List: RV6-N664SB FLIES--Finally!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> --> RV6-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch"
>
> Hi All,
>
> Just a very quick update to let you know that another fledgling has "left
> the nest".
>
> N664SB was signed off this morning by DAR Dale Gauger (DAR for American
> Champion).
>
> First flight was PHENOMENAL! FYI...I know why people don't post too many
> details about their first flight, I'm too D#$mned excited right now to do
> anything but walk around with this stupid grin contorting my face. Here's
a
> quick overview.
>
> First of all, about my field. It's about 40' wide x 1800' long carved
into
> the middle of a corn field with trees at one end.
>
> Test pilot was me, chase plane was unfairly a friend in a Decathlon. I
> lined the plane up on the runway, pushed in the throttle, raised the tail,
> and by the time I had a chance to move my eyes from the runway to the
> airspeed indicator I was flying! Climbing out at 120 produced a
> 1500+/minute climb, and I busted right against the MSP Class B airspace
> (2300') before I could even think! On top of that the plane was
> accelerating like mad, when I started (quite drastically) to level out at
> 2250', I was already passing 140 on the speedo!
>
> Flew south to get out from under the B airspace and gain some altitude.
> Climbed to 4000', practiced some turns, small standard rate to begin with,
> but the plane soon forced me into some steeper turns. Setup for some
> stalls, and performed a regiment of stalls. No good details on stalls,
but
> I can tell you the plane flies hands off with the ball perfectly centered.
> Stalls were abrupt, no buffet, but also NO wing drop. Just a quick break
> straight ahead.
>
> Goofed around some more and headed back to the airport for landing. Since
> my runway is somewhat "size limited", I didn't have the luxury of carrying
a
> bucket load of extra speed.
>
> Flared with some power, and firmly planted myself back on earth.
Touchdown
> to stop was WAYYYY less than half the runway! Not a perfect sqeaker, but
> then again I wasn't carrying any speed for floating. At this point I
don't
> give a crap, it was perfect to the guy in the cockpit! Directional
control
> is fine, and visibility is wonderful except in the flare.
>
> Anyway, I'm too excited to keep going. Got to go make some phone calls to
> brag!
>
> Keep up pounding those rivits, It's well worth it. WHAT AN AMAZING
airplane!
>
> Cheers,
> Stein Bruch
> RV6, N664SB
> FLYING! (what a feeling to type that in this space).
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kenneth Beene" <kbeene(at)citilink.com> |
Subject: | RV6-N664SB FLIES--Finally!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! |
CONGRATULATIONS Stein. Stop by LVN soon. Larry Daudt also had the
first flight of his F-1 Rocket today at LVN.
Ken
>
> Just a very quick update to let you know that another
> fledgling has "left the nest".
>
>
> Stein Bruch
> RV6, N664SB
> FLYING! (what a feeling to type that in this space).
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
Subject: | Re: Windscreen defrost |
Here in the NW we get plenty of fog-inducing conditions, and sometimes when
taxiing out my canopy fogs up. Opening the canopy for maybe 5 seconds clears
it out (though its usually also COLD out there!) So I suppose it would be
nice but on the other hand its only useful for the taxi out and you can get
rid of the fog quickly without a defroster. As others have said, its rarely
if ever needed in flight.
This thread, and the one about parking brakes, brings up an interesting
point. There are TONS of things you can add to your plane to make it
nicer/more conveinent/more comfortable etc. But each one adds weight, cost,
and complexity. We all make choices about this and everyones plane is
different -- thats what makes this whole thing so great! But its easy to get
carried away with the frills, and end up with a heavy airplane that took a
lot longer to build than if it were more spartan.
I'm not advocating a "no-frills" airplane (lord knows I have my share of
add-ons), but I think a good exercise might be to list all the extra junk
you want to hang on to your plane, in order of how important each one is to
you, and next to that list the weight of each, and the cost, and the extra
time you think it will take to install (and multiply that figure by 3). Then
decide where you want to make the "cut". Just adding up all the extra weight
can really be an eye-opener, and might help you decide to make the cut a
little higher than you might otherwise.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~400 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
----- Original Message -----
From: <dmedema(at)att.net>
Subject: RV-List: Windscreen defrost
>
> I enjoyed the recent thread on parking brakes and would
> like to see a similar one on canopy defrosters.
>
> If you have defrosting, do you use it? How often?
> Would you do it again?
>
> If you don't have one, do you wish you did? A lot,
> or just once and a great while?
>
> Thanks,
> Doug Medema
> RV-6A N276DM (reserved). Finishing panel.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave Cooke" <pitot(at)norlight.org> |
It appears that I must trim about 1/4 inch from the skin side of the base plate
of the 402 weldments in order to make the sides of the longerons close enough
to the skin line to rivet the skin to the longerons and legs of the weldment.
This is a very critical area since the engine mount bolts go through these plates.
Is there anyone else who is having or who remembers having this problem?
If so, how did it work out?
Dave Cooke
North Idaho
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charles Brame <charleyb(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Windscreen defrost |
I plan to install a couple of small fans also. I'd be interested in
hearing (or seeing) how you installed them. Did you install a grill? If
so, where did you find it?
Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB
San Antonio
------------------------------------------------------
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Windscreen defrost
posted by: dmedema(at)att.net
>
> I enjoyed the recent thread on parking brakes and would
> like to see a similar one on canopy defrosters.
>
> If you have defrosting, do you use it? How often?
> Would you do it again?
I have two little muffin fans directed up through the glareshield onto
the windscreen on my slider 6A, and I've used them quite a few times.
Never needed them in flight, but often after startup in the winter to
see during taxi.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 215 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
Subject: | Model A Steps, Again |
I always said that when I got old and bald I would put steps on my RV6A.
Well, I reached both landmarks and am now considering the steps.
Can anyone comment on the difficulty of installing them on a completed 6A? I
read all the postings in the archives and wonder if the problems folks ran
into are magnified on a finished plane.
Thanks for any voices of experience.
John at Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
Subject: | Fw: RV8-List: [ Chuck and C. David Rowbotham ] : New Email List |
Photo Share Available!
Chuck is that you or C. David standing next to that beautifully painted
Angel? Man I don't believe that guy can't smile any better than that while
standing next to such a gorgeous bird. ... you don't think he's still
bummed out that he accidentally put his tail wheel up front... mistakes
happen, just get over it and ENJOY that pretty plane.
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
Subject: RV8-List: [ Chuck and C. David Rowbotham ] : New Email List Photo
Share Available!
> --> RV8-List message posted by: Email List Photo Shares
>
>
> A new Email List Photo Share is available:
>
> Poster: Chuck and C. David Rowbotham
>
>
> Subject: RV-8A Paint - Blue Angles - N712CR
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/David_Rowbotham@dom.com.10.12.2002/index
.html
>
>
> --------------------------------------------
>
> o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
>
> Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
> emailing the files to:
>
> pictures(at)matronics.com
>
> Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
> Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
>
> o Main Photo Share Index:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
>
> --------------------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
Subject: | RV list special N-number |
David,
I reserved my N-number via the web, and recieved my response from the FAA within
a couple of weeks as I recall. You could probably find out sooner by calling
them.
If you do it on the web, using the link http://162.58.35.241/acdatabase/acmain.htm
it will tell you if any given number is assigned. If you pick one that is not
assigned, you stand a good chance of getting it, unless someone else just picked
it at the same time. If you tried to reserve it recently, just keep checking
back to that page and see if it shows up as assigned to you.
Somewhere on the list or one of the RV web sites, there was a nifty little search
engine someone had written. I allowed you to type in a desired N-number, and
it immediately told you whether it was assigned. Anyone remember this or know
how to access it?
Gary
From: "David Taylor" <david(at)hom.net>
Subject: RV-List: Special N-Number
I have reserved a special N-Number online with the FAA registry. Does anyone know
approximately how long it will take before the FAA notifies me? I'm really
curious to find out if I got my first choice as it has a great significance to
me.
Thanks,
-David Taylor
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
I can say it is not good to use. However, I cannot say specifically what kind.
I bought a homebuilt that someone had put automotive brake fluid in, and it
started leaking. I cured it by cleaning the system and installing aircraft brake
fluid. It took several years to begin leaking in this case. It has been
good for many years since.
If you have good results after 7 years, then I see no need to fix it. At least
it doesn't seem to be a case where there will be any sudden failure of the brake
system. If it gets to leaking and making a mess, you might try the red stuff.
Gary
From: "John Kitz" <JKITZ1(at)columbus.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:Bleeding Brakes
I have read this for years on the list, but I filled my -4 with Dot 5
automotive brake fluid 7 years ago and it has worked perfect since. How can
anyone say it is not good to use?
John Kitz
N721JK
Ohio
540 hours using Dot 5
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | HalBenjamin(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: 402 Weldments |
In a message dated 10/12/02 9:38:41 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
pitot(at)norlight.org writes:
> It appears that I must trim about 1/4 inch from the skin side of the base
> plate of the 402 weldments in order to make the sides of the longerons
> close enough to the skin line to rivet the skin to the longerons and legs
> of the weldment. This is a very critical area since the engine mount bolts
> go through these plates. Is there anyone else who is having or who
> remembers having this problem? If so, how did it work out?
>
>
Dave,
I trimmed about 3/16" off the edges of my 402 weldments to move them far
enough outboard to get a good skin line on the longerons. Tom at Van's said
this is common.
In addition, you may find that the angle of the longerons doesn't match the
angle of the weldment legs exactly. Tom at Van's said it's okay to put a
shim between the longerons and the weldment legs, as long as the shim isn't
more that 1/16" thick. If you make the shim too thick, edge distance can
become an issue.
Hope this helps.
Hal Benjamin RV-4
Fuselage on jig
Long Island, NY
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
>
>
>
>to DENVER & ALBUQUERQUE area pilots who are planning on going to Las Cruces
>on the 26th
>
>We have 3 RVs from Granby, CO leaving early Saturday morning. We're hoping
>to meet up with folks along the way for a mass fly-in into Cruces.
>
>Thinking of a Colorado join-up around 8:30 am, possibly in Alamosa and then
>a New Mexico join-up around 9:30, perhaps in Belen. I remember a great
>little pilot's cafe on the Belen airport. Is it still there?
>
>Actually, all plans are wide open. Just looking for a fun weekend.
>
>Write back if you think you want to join up for the ride.
>
>Andy
>
Andy,
The cafe is still there, and has gone through some remodeling. I haven't
been there since this work was done, but am pretty sure it's up and running.
I'll be flying down on Friday, so won't be available for a join up on
Saturday. Bummer. I think I'm the only RV-lister from Albuquerque with a
flying RV, so I reckon you've reached your market in this area! I'll pass
on the info to anyone I see around here in the next week who may be planning
to fly down on Saturday. Norm Schippers (RV6) and Larry Miller (RV4) might
be flying down at that time.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
307 hrs.
First RV8 driver in the state of Nuevo Mexico.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
Subject: | Dual Rudder pedals alignment on -6 |
Has anyone else had a problem with getting both sets of rudder pedals on
a -6 or -7 to line up with each other?
http://bmnellis.com/images/Fuselage/pedals-seatribs/DCP02600.JPG
Take a look at the above link and you'll see what I'm talking about. I
put a straight edge along two pedals on one side then took a look at the
other pedals and I can see about 1/4" mis-alignment between the other
two pedals. I don't know how to get rid of this offset other than to
just "split the difference" later when I'm rigging everything up.
Mike Nellis
http://bmnellis.com
RV6 - Fuselage N699BM
1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Bleeding Brakes |
>
>Thanks to everyone who provided tips about bleeding my brakes....this list
>is worth a million bucks!!!
Pay to the CONTRIBUTIONS web site listed below, Doc.
hal
>Steve Mullins, Ph.D.
>Associate Professor of Economics
>Drury University
>417.889.5609 (home)
>417.873.7299 (office)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Dual Rudder pedals alignment on -6 |
Mike,
The fuse is so much fun! Try swapping the rudder bars and see if that makes
any difference. Put the one that is now in front, in the rear. The brake
pedals will be hard to line up too. Do not drill the hole yet where the
bottom of the brake cylinder attaches to the pedal. Get the brake pedals
lined up and then drill the lower hole.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
RV6 N296JC(res)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com>
Subject: RV6-List: Dual Rudder pedals alignment on -6
> --> RV6-List message posted by: "Mike Nellis"
>
> Has anyone else had a problem with getting both sets of rudder pedals on
> a -6 or -7 to line up with each other?
>
> http://bmnellis.com/images/Fuselage/pedals-seatribs/DCP02600.JPG
>
> Take a look at the above link and you'll see what I'm talking about. I
> put a straight edge along two pedals on one side then took a look at the
> other pedals and I can see about 1/4" mis-alignment between the other
> two pedals. I don't know how to get rid of this offset other than to
> just "split the difference" later when I'm rigging everything up.
>
> Mike Nellis
> http://bmnellis.com
> RV6 - Fuselage N699BM
> 1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Bleeding Brakes |
OR.....
Open the top of the brake fluid reservoir, open the fitting in the bottom of
the brake caliper, and pump brake fluid into that fitting until all of the
air is out of the system and fluid is running out the top of the reservoir.
This way, it can be a one person operation.
This, by the way, is the correct way to install fluid into the brake system
for the first time, during construction.
George Kilishek.
Paul Besing says, correctly, ".......
>Repeat steps 1-4 on each brake, a few times, until solid pressure is felt
>equally on both pedals."
>>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Steve Mullins" <smullins(at)drury.edu>
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Bleeding Brakes
>
>
> >
> > Hi everyone.
> >
> > After having a close encounter with a hangar on our airstrip, I suppose
>it is time for me do deal with that soft left brake pedal. Unfortunately, I
>know nothing about how to bleed brakes (except for the obvious need to
>replace air with brake fluid.)
> >
> > Do I need any special tools to do this? Is the nipple (that looks like a
>grease fitting) on my brake really a grease fitting, or is it used for
>bleeding the brakes?
> >
> > ANY tips will be greatly appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks in advance!
> >
> > Steve Mullins, Ph.D.
> > Associate Professor of Economics
> > Drury University
> > 417.889.5609 (home)
> > 417.873.7299 (office)
> >
> >
>
>
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV6-N664SB FLIES--Finally!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! |
Stein,
CONGRATULATIONS & WELL DONE !!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "Rv-List" , "Rv6-List"
>Subject: RV-List: RV6-N664SB FLIES--Finally!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 17:38:06 -0500
>
>
>Hi All,
>
>Just a very quick update to let you know that another fledgling has "left
>the nest".
>
>
>Cheers,
>Stein Bruch
>RV6, N664SB
>FLYING! (what a feeling to type that in this space).
>
>
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Art Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net> |
Subject: | Re: Windscreen defrost |
I just put two extra cooling fans in my computer which were under four
dollars each. They will go for thousands of hours. If they are 12 volt
units, this may represent an inexpensive, reliable, and convenient solution.
Charles Brame wrote:
>
> I plan to install a couple of small fans also. I'd be interested in
> hearing (or seeing) how you installed them. Did you install a grill? If
> so, where did you find it?
>
> Charlie Brame
> RV-6A N11CB
> San Antonio
>
> ------------------------------------------------------
>
> From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Windscreen defrost
>
>
> posted by: dmedema(at)att.net
> >
> > I enjoyed the recent thread on parking brakes and would
> > like to see a similar one on canopy defrosters.
> >
> > If you have defrosting, do you use it? How often?
> > Would you do it again?
>
> I have two little muffin fans directed up through the glareshield onto
> the windscreen on my slider 6A, and I've used them quite a few times.
> Never needed them in flight, but often after startup in the winter to
> see during taxi.
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> RV6-A N66AP 215 hours
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | RV-8A - "Blue Angles" pictures |
All,
We finally got our pictures on the RV-List - photos.
The only photo missing is the One with Dave and myself in the picture.
Apparently the flash card was full. Since Dave is my partner and the one who
did the majority of the work (as well as my son) we will be updating the
pictures.
In the mean time, if anyone has any questions or comments, I'll make sure
they get to Dave.
BTW, we choose the "Blue Angels" in memory of my dad & Dave's grandfather,
who was a career NAVY and was a great supporter of the BA.
These RVs are super a/c - keep pounding those rivets - you'll be rewarded so
many times over.
Good Building,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "DICK PITTENGER" <DICKPITTENGER(at)worldnet.att.net> |
"Kathy McCoy" ,
"RV List" ,
"Pittenger Family" , ,
"Tom Jensen" , "Don Karbowski" ,
"Bob Luehr" ,
Subject: | Fw: Financial terminology |
----- Original Message -----
From: <Marybooth(at)aol.com>
Subject: Fwd: Financial terminology
> .
> > CEO: chief embezzlement officer.
> >
> > CFO: corporate fraud officer.
> >
> > BULL MARKET -- A random market movement causing an investor to mistake
> > himself for a financial genius.
> >
> > BEAR MARKET -- A 6 to 18 month period when the kids get no allowance,
the
> > wife gets no jewelry, and the husband gets no sex.
> >
> > VALUE INVESTING -- The art of buying low and selling lower.
> >
> > P/E RATIO -- The percentage of investors wetting their pants as the
market
> > keeps crashing.
> >
> > BROKER -- What my broker has made me.
> >
> > STANDARD & POOR -- Your life in a nutshell.
> >
> > STOCK "ANAL"YST! -- Idiot who just downgraded your stock.
> >
> > STOCK SPLIT -- When your ex-wife and her lawyer split your assets
equally
> > between themselves.
> >
> > FINANCIAL PLANNER -- A guy whose phone has been disconnected.
> >
> > MARKET CORRECTION -- The day after you buy stocks.
> >
> > CASH FLOW -- The movement your money makes as it disappears down the
> toilet.
> >
> > YAHOO -- What you yell after selling it to some poor sucker for $240
per
> > share.
> >
> > WINDOWS 2000 -- What you jump out of when you're the sucker who bought
> Yahoo
> > @ $240 per share.
> >
> > INSTITUTIONAL INVESTOR -- Past year investor who's now locked up in a
> > nuthouse.
> >
> > PROFIT -- an archaic word no longer in use.
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV6-N664SB FLIES--Finally!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! |
Congratulations, Stein - great job!!!
Stein Bruch wrote:
>
>
> Hi All,
>
> Just a very quick update to let you know that another fledgling has "left
> the nest".
>
> N664SB was signed off this morning by DAR Dale Gauger (DAR for American
> Champion).
>
> First flight was PHENOMENAL! FYI...I know why people don't post too many
> details about their first flight, I'm too D#$mned excited right now to do
> anything but walk around with this stupid grin contorting my face. Here's a
> quick overview.
>
> First of all, about my field. It's about 40' wide x 1800' long carved into
> the middle of a corn field with trees at one end.
>
> Test pilot was me, chase plane was unfairly a friend in a Decathlon. I
> lined the plane up on the runway, pushed in the throttle, raised the tail,
> and by the time I had a chance to move my eyes from the runway to the
> airspeed indicator I was flying! Climbing out at 120 produced a
> 1500+/minute climb, and I busted right against the MSP Class B airspace
> (2300') before I could even think! On top of that the plane was
> accelerating like mad, when I started (quite drastically) to level out at
> 2250', I was already passing 140 on the speedo!
>
> Flew south to get out from under the B airspace and gain some altitude.
> Climbed to 4000', practiced some turns, small standard rate to begin with,
> but the plane soon forced me into some steeper turns. Setup for some
> stalls, and performed a regiment of stalls. No good details on stalls, but
> I can tell you the plane flies hands off with the ball perfectly centered.
> Stalls were abrupt, no buffet, but also NO wing drop. Just a quick break
> straight ahead.
>
> Goofed around some more and headed back to the airport for landing. Since
> my runway is somewhat "size limited", I didn't have the luxury of carrying a
> bucket load of extra speed.
>
> Flared with some power, and firmly planted myself back on earth. Touchdown
> to stop was WAYYYY less than half the runway! Not a perfect sqeaker, but
> then again I wasn't carrying any speed for floating. At this point I don't
> give a crap, it was perfect to the guy in the cockpit! Directional control
> is fine, and visibility is wonderful except in the flare.
>
> Anyway, I'm too excited to keep going. Got to go make some phone calls to
> brag!
>
> Keep up pounding those rivits, It's well worth it. WHAT AN AMAZING airplane!
>
> Cheers,
> Stein Bruch
> RV6, N664SB
> FLYING! (what a feeling to type that in this space).
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV6-N664SB FLIES--Finally!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! |
Congratulations Stein, when you calm down how about some details like what
engine and prop are you using, etc.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, electrical stuff (wiring panel now)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry2DT(at)aol.com |
Stein...
Thanks for sharing that with the rest of us rivet-pounding fanatics, it is
truly inspirational. My wife (co-rivetress and pilot) says: "It gives me
goosebumps!"
Jerry Cochran
-6a/Finish kit
In a message dated 10/12/02 11:54:38 PM, rv6-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
<<
First flight was PHENOMENAL! FYI...I know why people don't post too many
details about their first flight, I'm too D#$mned excited right now to do
anything but walk around with this stupid grin contorting my face. Here's a
quick overview.
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RGray67968(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: First flight |
In a message dated 10/13/02 11:00:36 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
Jerry2DT(at)aol.com writes:
> First flight was PHENOMENAL!
>
Stein,
Congratulations!!! Enjoy that nice landing, they usually get a little
bouncier before the get better :
). Be careful and respect your
machine.......but have a little fun while you're at it!!
Rick Gray RV6 Flying (Ohio) at the Buffalo Farm 104 hours since 7 August
including a memorable trip to Florida w/Dad
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Todd Rudberg <todd_rudberg(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Click Bond Cable Ties. |
Anybody out there used these? They look great (if
expensive). If so, what partnumbers did you find
useful. I am definitely going to spend some money on
these, just don't want to get the wrong stuff.
Also, if you did a really nice job running your cables
to the tail and other places in the airframe, please
send me a pic or two of your solution.
Thanks guys,
Todd.
www.rvwoody.com
www.acubedllc.com
Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More
http://faith.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Roger Crandell <rwc(at)swcp.com> |
Subject: | For Sale: new Van's FP-12 spinner kit |
For sale. Van's FP-12, 12" spinner kit for wooden prop. Has 12 inch rear bulkhead.
New in box.
$105 new from Vans, will sell for $80 including shipping. COD extra.
Roger
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com> |
Looking for Frank Dombroski. Frank, please contact Vince at
vwelch(at)knownet.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tom and Faye" <tcrupe(at)ridgenet.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV4-List: 402 Weldments |
Dave,
I just replaced the 402 and 403 old style brackets in my aircraft S/N 62.
They fit almost perfect. Check the dimensions of the brackets with the
numbers on sheet 34 of the plans, if you haven't already. There may have
been a mistake in the manufacture of the brackets. If not that, I would not
have a clue. They should just lay right in there. Hopefully some else may
have and answer.
Tom Rupe
S/N 62
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Cooke" <pitot(at)norlight.org>
Subject: RV4-List: 402 Weldments
> --> RV4-List message posted by: "Dave Cooke"
>
> It appears that I must trim about 1/4 inch from the skin side of the base
plate of the 402 weldments in order to make the sides of the longerons close
enough to the skin line to rivet the skin to the longerons and legs of the
weldment. This is a very critical area since the engine mount bolts go
through these plates. Is there anyone else who is having or who remembers
having this problem? If so, how did it work out?
>
> Dave Cooke
>
> North Idaho
>
> Fuselage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gabe and Marisol Ferrer" <ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Re: Special N Number |
David:
If you don't get the N Number you asked for, call them.
I requested N2GX in extra large bold font, so they wouldn't miss it, and
instead I got my second choice.
Even though my first choice was available.
I called them, and they just said that they made a mistake.
They corrected their mistake and reserved N2GX for me.
Gabe A Ferrer (RV6, N2GX reserved, SE Florida)
ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net
Cell: 561 758 8894
Night or FAX: 561 622 0960
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Greg Hunsicker <gh2538(at)cjnetworks.com> |
Subject: | firewall corners buckling |
Has anyone had experience with the lower firewall corners buckling
slightly? My RV-4 0-320 150HP had cracks in the motor mount around the
lower and middle weldments next to the firewall area. I had gussets
welded to this mount and it should be stronger than ever but now do I
need to replace the buckled skin in these lower corners or just
straighten them back out as best can and put the bird back together? I
have inspected inside the fuselage at all 6 bolt areas and find nothing
that looks wrong. Any suggestions would be appreciated as it has now
been about 30 days since airworthy and I am going crazy sitting here on
deck.
Greg Hunsicker
Sunset Strip Airpark 90KS
Berryton, KS
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randy Garrett" <rgarrett7(at)attbi.com> |
Subject: | RV Fuel Tank Leaks |
I had a similar problem with my fuel tanks. Unfortunately, my RV-6A was a "QuickBuild",
so it was particularly annoying to have to fix leaks that I didn't cause.
Also, the leaks didn't show up until after I was flying. I assume the
vibration / pressure changes were responsible. When I opened up the fuel tank
through the sender, the EAA tech counselor (who happens to be a ProSeal guru)
and a repeat offender RV builder both said the ProSeal job looked defective.
Must have been a bad afternoon in the Philippines, because there was a different
problem with my other fuel tank.
Anyway, I also tried the Locktite Green approach. It worked ... for a few days.
Then the vibration of flying caused the tank to open up again and the leak
to reappear. Being the persistent type (and because the other fixes are increasingly
difficult), I did this 3 times before ultimately giving up. I have really
gotten good at removing fuel tanks!
The approach that has worked for me (so far) was to use a sloshing compound. You
will hear lots of horror stories about the stuff coming lose eventually. My
aforementioned tech counselor said this was due to not having the tank clean
enough. So, I rinsed it 3x with acetone and once with 409. Should have been
clean! Since then I have been keeping a close eye on the gascolator filter and
the fuel tank drain. No evidence of delamination. If you are interested,
the compound I used was: Flamemaster CS 3600. I bought it from SealPak in Witchita,
KS 316-942-6211. It cost about $25 for a quart, which is WAY more than
you need. I applied 3 coats, just for good measure. Gee, I must like to do
things 3 times. The other bad news: I opened up the fuel sender and poured
the sloshing compound in through there. It let me get much more controlled application.
I was also careful to just slosh around the seams (to the extent)
I could. No leaks after about 3 weeks and 15 hours of flying.
There are 2 other choices: Cut an access hole in the bay that has the leak, scrap
out the old ProSeal as thoroughly as you can, clean aggressively, then reapply
ProSeal. This is probably the "right" way to do it.
The final choice: build / acquire a new fuel tank. The reason I mention this
is that I had a QB kit, so I probably could have gotten a new tank from Van's.
However, the thought of trying to get all those screw holes to match (since
they would now have to be blind-drilled) was daunting. Also, I'm not sure how
well the leading edge would have matched.
Since you are not a builder, all these options may sound daunting. I guess technically
only an A&P or the person with the Repairman's certificate is supposed
to do these repairs.
Hope this was somewhat helpful ...
Randy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randy Garrett" <rgarrett7(at)attbi.com> |
Subject: | Computational Fluid Dynamics? |
Has anyone done CFD studies of RV's?
Randy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randy Garrett" <rgarrett7(at)attbi.com> |
Subject: | MT prop performance |
I would like to compare notes with other people who have an MT prop on their
RV.
I have an RV-6A QB with an O-360 and the 3-bladed MT prop. I now have about
30 hours on it. I have noticed that the prop seems to hold the RPM that I
have set using the prop governor much longer ... that is, with much less
manifold pressure ... than any other constant speed prop I have flown. This
is mostly apparent when reducing power on downwind or when really slowing
down for slow flight. I would say the manifold pressure is between 5 and 10
inches before the prop can no longer hold 2300 or 2400 RPM. So, I think the
blades are getting much flatter / going to higher pitch than other constant
speed props. One effect of this is that I get a LOT of drag from the prop.
I can really come down quick by reducing the power. This is not necessarily
bad, just different. So, I wanted to see whether this is standard behavior
for MT props.
Thanks,
Randy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Doug Gray <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au> |
Subject: | Lycoming Engine preservation |
Can anyone tell me the extent of the preservation and the amount of oil
in cylinders etc fir the Lycoming Factory preservation process?
I have an engine in storage in its original shiping packaging, sealed in
the plastic bag provided and has been that way for about 4 years. When
shop space permits I have been flipping it over to move the oil around
the engine but I have assumed there really is oil inside.
Do I need to open the plastic bag up and fill it up with oil or would I
be better off just leaving the bag sealed up?
Doug Gray
Fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
Subject: | Computational Fluid Dynamics? |
Some number of years ago someone did a 6A, and published various results
in Sport Aviation. I'd guess it was about 5 years ago. Call EAA
publications.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 215 hours
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy Garrett
> Sent: Monday, October 14, 2002 1:42 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Computational Fluid Dynamics?
>
>
>
> Has anyone done CFD studies of RV's?
>
> Randy
>
>
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Gunn" <WGUNN(at)dot.state.tx.us> |
Subject: | Re: RV4-List: firewall corners buckling |
I have an RV-4 with 1310 hours, 1301 flown with an 0-320 F/P prop. When I bought
the aircraft in 1996 it had 525 hours and a 1 " long wrinkle along the (pilot's)
left firewall step vertical bend about 2/3 of the way from the top of the
step out. At 850 or so hours I had a 1/4 "crack in the engine mount cluster by
the left landing gear rod mounting tube - repaired by TIG welding. The 1 " wrinkle
never grew or changed. I just reengined with a new mount (conical to dynafocal)
0-360 and C/S prop. I straightened the wrinkle as best possible while
modifying the firewall. Bottom line, check it, but don't worry about it.
>>> gh2538(at)cjnetworks.com 10/13/02 08:04PM >>>
--> RV4-List message posted by: Greg Hunsicker
Has anyone had experience with the lower firewall corners buckling
slightly? My RV-4 0-320 150HP had cracks in the motor mount around the
lower and middle weldments next to the firewall area. I had gussets
welded to this mount and it should be stronger than ever but now do I
need to replace the buckled skin in these lower corners or just
straighten them back out as best can and put the bird back together? I
have inspected inside the fuselage at all 6 bolt areas and find nothing
that looks wrong. Any suggestions would be appreciated as it has now
been about 30 days since airworthy and I am going crazy sitting here on
deck.
Greg Hunsicker
Sunset Strip Airpark 90KS
Berryton, KS
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
Subject: | Re: MT prop performance |
>
>I would like to compare notes with other people who have an MT prop on their
>RV.
>
>I have an RV-6A QB with an O-360 and the 3-bladed MT prop. I now have about
>30 hours on it. I have noticed that the prop seems to hold the RPM that I
>have set using the prop governor much longer ... that is, with much less
>manifold pressure ... than any other constant speed prop I have flown. This
>is mostly apparent when reducing power on downwind or when really slowing
>down for slow flight. I would say the manifold pressure is between 5 and 10
>inches before the prop can no longer hold 2300 or 2400 RPM. So, I think the
>blades are getting much flatter / going to higher pitch than other constant
>speed props. One effect of this is that I get a LOT of drag from the prop.
>I can really come down quick by reducing the power. This is not necessarily
>bad, just different. So, I wanted to see whether this is standard behavior
>for MT props.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Randy
>
You could probably adjust the low pitch stop so it couldn't go as
fine. Hartzell recommends seting the low pitch stop on their props
be set so the prop can't quite make rated rpm during a full power
static run-up. As soon as the aircraft starts to move forward during
the take-off roll the rpm climbs a bit and the prop starts to govern.
Having the fine pitch stop set too fine probably isn't a good idea as
it increases the windmilling prop drag in the event of an engine
failure.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (cowling, wing tip lights)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: firewall corners buckling |
>
>
>Has anyone had experience with the lower firewall corners buckling
>slightly? My RV-4 0-320 150HP had cracks in the motor mount around the
>lower and middle weldments next to the firewall area. I had gussets
>welded to this mount and it should be stronger than ever but now do I
>need to replace the buckled skin in these lower corners or just
>straighten them back out as best can and put the bird back together? I
>have inspected inside the fuselage at all 6 bolt areas and find nothing
>that looks wrong. Any suggestions would be appreciated as it has now
>been about 30 days since airworthy and I am going crazy sitting here on
>deck.
>Greg Hunsicker
>Sunset Strip Airpark 90KS
>Berryton, KS
Greg,
I believe this is not uncommon with the -4's. A buddy of mine had the same
problem, and kept flying it for many months with no issues at all. He was
also planning to remove the engine and mount to fix and beef up the area,
but ended up selling the airplane first.
I reckon Van's would have a suggested course of action for you. I'm sure
it's been brought to their attention by now.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
307 hrs
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Looking for Marc Drake |
Sorry to bother everyone with this. If anyone knows how to contact
Marc Drake, I sure could use some help. I need to get in contact with him
about his seat order and have been unable to reach him by the phone numbers I
have on record. Thanks for the help!
Becki Orndorff
GeoBeck, Inc.
www.fly-gbi.com
940-648-0841
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Huft" <rv8tor(at)lazy8.net> |
Subject: | MT prop performance |
The other issue here is that with a governor failure, the prop will go to
flat pitch. You want the engine to be able to deliver a fair amount of power
without exceeding red line rpms. I would say you do want to adjust the low
pitch stop.
I have an MT on my 8, which I hope to fly this week for the first time, I
will report back on it.
John
Pagosa Springs, CO
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kevin Horton
Subject: Re: RV-List: MT prop performance
>
>I would like to compare notes with other people who have an MT prop on
their
>RV.
>
>I have an RV-6A QB with an O-360 and the 3-bladed MT prop. I now have
about
>30 hours on it. I have noticed that the prop seems to hold the RPM that I
>have set using the prop governor much longer ... that is, with much less
>manifold pressure ... than any other constant speed prop I have flown.
This
>is mostly apparent when reducing power on downwind or when really slowing
>down for slow flight. I would say the manifold pressure is between 5 and
10
>inches before the prop can no longer hold 2300 or 2400 RPM. So, I think
the
>blades are getting much flatter / going to higher pitch than other constant
>speed props. One effect of this is that I get a LOT of drag from the prop.
>I can really come down quick by reducing the power. This is not
necessarily
>bad, just different. So, I wanted to see whether this is standard behavior
>for MT props.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Randy
>
You could probably adjust the low pitch stop so it couldn't go as
fine. Hartzell recommends seting the low pitch stop on their props
be set so the prop can't quite make rated rpm during a full power
static run-up. As soon as the aircraft starts to move forward during
the take-off roll the rpm climbs a bit and the prop starts to govern.
Having the fine pitch stop set too fine probably isn't a good idea as
it increases the windmilling prop drag in the event of an engine
failure.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (cowling, wing tip lights)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Melvinke(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: RV4-List: firewall corners buckling |
For me the buckling of the lower corners of the firewall meant cracked
weldments. I assume that you have examined those carefully.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bartrim, Todd" <sbartrim(at)mail.canfor.ca> |
Subject: | Windscreen defrost |
> I just put two extra cooling fans in my computer which were under four
> dollars each. They will go for thousands of hours. If they are 12 volt
> units, this may represent an inexpensive, reliable, and convenient
> solution.
>
> Charles Brame wrote:
>
This is exactly what I did. While I've not yet flown, I believe they will
work excellent. Cheap, light & effective. They are not plumbed to the
heater, but rather just draw air from behind the panel.
I do live in the north where I feel these will be worth their
weight, however if I lived in a warm dry climate, I probably wouldn't have
used anything. I used 2 of them, but another local builder only used 1.
S. Todd Bartrim
Turbo 13B rotary powered
RX-9endurance (FWF)
C-FSTB (reserved)
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
RE: RV-List: Windscreen defrost
I just put two extra cooling fans in my computer which were under four
dollars each. They will go for thousands of hours. If they are 12 volt
units, this may represent an inexpensive, reliable, and convenient solution.
Charles Brame wrote:
This is exactly what I did. While I've not yet flown, I believe they will work
excellent. Cheap, light effective. They are not plumbed to the heater, but rather
just draw air from behind the panel.
I do live in the north where I feel these will be worth their weight, however
if I lived in a warm dry climate, I probably wouldn't have used anything. I used
2 of them, but another local builder only used 1.
S. Todd Bartrim
Turbo 13B rotary powered
RX-9endurance (FWF)
C-FSTB (reserved)
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Painting Checkerboards |
In a message dated 10/11/2002 10:11:42 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
barrypote(at)comcast.net writes:
>
> Tim,
> I saw and talked to you at OSH. Your checker board is the best I have
> ever seen. Two things:
> 1. Can you elaborate on "application paper" that you mentioned?
> 2. Did you paint the tail white, then pull out every other square of a
> black back ground, then stick the remaining black checker board onto the
> white tail, then clear over that?
>
> Barry Pote RV9a finishing
>
>
> Go to a Graphics shop and have them cut horizontal and vertical lines in
> the
> > vinyl sheet, remove every other square. Apply some application paper and
> now
> > you have a big checker board sticker. Apply that to your rudder or what
> ever
> > and shoot some clear coat on it. this worked very well for me and looks
> great
> >
> > Good Luck
> > Tim Barnes
> > Meangreen RV-4.
> >
>
Thanks Barry, the applacation paper is a tackey paper that goes over the
vinyl to hold the squares in place once the backing from the vinyl is
removed. The graphics shop will put this on after he cuts and removes every
other square. I did paint the rudder white and wet sanded it pryor to putting
on the checker boards. Then I shot a coat of clear coat over the rudder
Good Luck
Tim Barnes
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "TruTrak Flight Systems" <info(at)trutrakflightsystems.com> |
Subject: | RV-9A Slider lock |
Does anyone have a good installation for a locking canopy on an RV-9A?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JCTV <jctv(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Wiring in the Vertical Stabilizer? |
Just a quick question, I am about to rivet close my
Vertical Stabilizer and wanted to know if I should run
some string thru the ribs to pull cables with later?
If so, what might I run thru there? (Antenna Coax,
Power cable ???)
Thanks,
JC
Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More
http://faith.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Neil McLeod" <bedrock(at)theriver.com> |
Subject: | Re: Lycoming Engine preservation |
Tanis has a kit for this, www.tanair.com
Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Gray" <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au>
Subject: RV-List: Lycoming Engine preservation
>
> Can anyone tell me the extent of the preservation and the amount of oil
> in cylinders etc fir the Lycoming Factory preservation process?
>
> I have an engine in storage in its original shiping packaging, sealed in
> the plastic bag provided and has been that way for about 4 years. When
> shop space permits I have been flipping it over to move the oil around
> the engine but I have assumed there really is oil inside.
>
> Do I need to open the plastic bag up and fill it up with oil or would I
> be better off just leaving the bag sealed up?
>
> Doug Gray
> Fuse
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Wiring in the Vertical Stabilizer? |
I have a VOR/G-S antenna on the top of my vertical stabilizer. For what
it's worth, if you forget the string, you can poke a hinge pin wire up
through the assembly (i.e. the hinge pin wires are long enough to go from
tip to root), but I ran a string (and also put grommets in holes) before
closing everything up. Good luck.
Rick Jory RV8A
----- Original Message -----
From: JCTV <jctv(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Wiring in the Vertical Stabilizer?
>
> Just a quick question, I am about to rivet close my
> Vertical Stabilizer and wanted to know if I should run
> some string thru the ribs to pull cables with later?
>
> If so, what might I run thru there? (Antenna Coax,
> Power cable ???)
>
> Thanks,
>
> JC
>
>
> Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More
> http://faith.yahoo.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gene Smith" <esmith6(at)satx.rr.com> |
Subject: | Cracked Engine Mount Weldments |
JKL Greg,
This is probably all wrong, but something for all of us to think about......you
wrote, "cracks in the motor mount around the lower and middle weldments
next to the firewall area. I had gussets welded to this mount and it should be
stronger than ever."
I might suggest that welding the mounts may have caused the "temper" to be
changed either softer or harder, which could cause excess movement, or not enough,
which possibly could cause the skin in that area to buckle. For a critical
area such as the engine mounts, I don't think I would let anyone weld them
unless they were a Certified Aircraft Welder, because that heat has to be perfect
for that type of metal.
There is one other thing to think about......If there were no hard landings,
maybe crosswinds during landing or takeoff could be responsible. Crosswinds
can cause incredible side loads and torsion on all aspects of our landing gear
system and this is transferred throughout the entire attached area of the fuselage......take
a look at your tires after a good bout with a crosswind, and
think about all the rudder "kicking" that took place to just stay on the runway..........CHEERS!!!!!!
jK
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard Bibb" <richard.bibb(at)verizon.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Cracked Engine Mount Weldments |
Operation from rough field can add to the stress. As for crosswind
landings - work on technique - you ought to ba able to touch down one wing
low if necessary to avoid landing in a crab with resulting big swerve/side
loads....
Richard
RV-4 N144KT ( Rebuilding and installing new canopy)
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Antenna location question |
There's a lot in the archives on this subject but I could not find an answer
to my specific question so here goes. I am planning on locating my com (bent
whip) and transponder antennas in the opposite corners of the wing root area
where the gear weldments would be if I was building a 6A, inboard from the
side skin about 6 in. on each side and an inch or so ahead of the spar. I
would sure appreciate hearing from anyone who has done this pro or con on
this location. I'm mostly concerned about the wing blocking the com signal
when I'm on the ground.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, electrical stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Neil McLeod" <neilmcleod(at)direcway.com> |
Subject: | Re: Antenna location question |
I don't know how well it works but that is approximately where the factory
has theirs. I assume they would change it if it didn't work.
Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: <HCRV6(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Antenna location question
>
> There's a lot in the archives on this subject but I could not find an
answer
> to my specific question so here goes. I am planning on locating my com
(bent
> whip) and transponder antennas in the opposite corners of the wing root
area
> where the gear weldments would be if I was building a 6A, inboard from the
> side skin about 6 in. on each side and an inch or so ahead of the spar. I
> would sure appreciate hearing from anyone who has done this pro or con on
> this location. I'm mostly concerned about the wing blocking the com
signal
> when I'm on the ground.
>
> Harry Crosby
> Pleasanton, California
> RV-6, electrical stuff
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Greg Hunsicker <gh2538(at)cjnetworks.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Cracked Engine Mount Weldments |
I had the mount tig welded as per Vans directions. I do appreciate your
thoughts though on the subject. In my case I had a couple pretty hard
landings doing some very short field practice. For my sake I am glad
that my practice has been made perfect.
Greg Hunsicker
Gene Smith wrote:
>--> RV4-List message posted by: "Gene Smith"
>
>JKL Greg,
> This is probably all wrong, but something for all of us to think about......you
wrote, "cracks in the motor mount around the lower and middle weldments
next to the firewall area. I had gussets welded to this mount and it should
be stronger than ever."
> I might suggest that welding the mounts may have caused the "temper" to
be changed either softer or harder, which could cause excess movement, or not
enough, which possibly could cause the skin in that area to buckle. For a critical
area such as the engine mounts, I don't think I would let anyone weld them
unless they were a Certified Aircraft Welder, because that heat has to be perfect
for that type of metal.
> There is one other thing to think about......If there were no hard landings,
maybe crosswinds during landing or takeoff could be responsible. Crosswinds
can cause incredible side loads and torsion on all aspects of our landing gear
system and this is transferred throughout the entire attached area of the
fuselage......take a look at your tires after a good bout with a crosswind, and
think about all the rudder "kicking" that took place to just stay on the runway..........CHEERS!!!!!!
jK
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Antenna location question |
Hi Harry,
I was about to ask the same question. Putting the com antennas in front
of the spar is especially attractive because it avoids going through or
around the spar. If they are toward the outside they avoid the exhaust
stream. I was also thinking seriously of putting the transponder and the
markerbeacon antennas forward of the spar ahead of the com antennas,
also toward the outside.
I'll be interested in other responses to your question.
Richard Dudley
-6A N331RD, about to hang the engine
HCRV6(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> There's a lot in the archives on this subject but I could not find an answer
> to my specific question so here goes. I am planning on locating my com (bent
> whip) and transponder antennas in the opposite corners of the wing root area
> where the gear weldments would be if I was building a 6A, inboard from the
> side skin about 6 in. on each side and an inch or so ahead of the spar. I
> would sure appreciate hearing from anyone who has done this pro or con on
> this location. I'm mostly concerned about the wing blocking the com signal
> when I'm on the ground.
>
> Harry Crosby
> Pleasanton, California
> RV-6, electrical stuff
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
Subject: | Matronics List Rules |
I would like to respectfully remind some listers that if you read the user information
which the webmaster sends you with your subscription, and the reminders
he sends out occasionally, you will see that posting jokes on the list, and
carrying on personal sales business on the list are against the guidelines and
intent of the List as set up by our generous benefactor.
Let's not clutter the list with Internet Trash, and please, after the initial contact
on something for sale, use personal email off list. Matt and the rest
of us will appreciate it.
Hey, I waste too much time reading this thing as it is!
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Antenna location question |
Richard Dudley wrote:
>
>
> Hi Harry,
> I was about to ask the same question. Putting the com antennas in front
> of the spar is especially attractive because it avoids going through or
> around the spar. If they are toward the outside they avoid the exhaust
> stream. I was also thinking seriously of putting the transponder and the
> markerbeacon antennas forward of the spar ahead of the com antennas,
> also toward the outside.
>
> I'll be interested in other responses to your question.
>
> Richard Dudley
> -6A N331RD, about to hang the engine
>
> HCRV6(at)aol.com wrote:
> >
> >
> > There's a lot in the archives on this subject but I could not find an answer
> > to my specific question so here goes. I am planning on locating my com (bent
> > whip) and transponder antennas in the opposite corners of the wing root area
> > where the gear weldments would be if I was building a 6A, inboard from the
> > side skin about 6 in. on each side and an inch or so ahead of the spar. I
> > would sure appreciate hearing from anyone who has done this pro or con on
> > this location. I'm mostly concerned about the wing blocking the com signal
> > when I'm on the ground.
> >
> > Harry Crosby
> > Pleasanton, California
> > RV-6, electrical stuff
> >
>
Works fine on my RV-6, I have two coms with each antenna in front of the spar
just as close to the side skins as possible. I then put my Transponder antenna
right in the middle between the two.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Wire in Vertical Stabilizer? |
JC,
Do it now! It will be some time until you need decide, but you'll then have
option. I placed bushings in inline holes along with the suggested string.
Have since installed a third (red) strobe on top. Some don't want light
there as may reflect too much into canopy at night, but I want mainly for
daytime/dusk "see and be seen."
JPB
-8 fuselage
>From: JCTV <jctv(at)yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Wiring in the Vertical Stabilizer?
>Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 09:53:44 -0700 (PDT)
>
>
>Just a quick question, I am about to rivet close my
>Vertical Stabilizer and wanted to know if I should run
>some string thru the ribs to pull cables with later?
>
>If so, what might I run thru there? (Antenna Coax,
>Power cable ???)
>
>Thanks,
>
>JC
>
>
>Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More
>http://faith.yahoo.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
Subject: | Fw: RV4-List: Cracked Engine Mount Weldments |
In addition to all that Gene listed below... RV-4's firewalls have a
tendency to buckle.
----- Original Message -----
From: Gene Smith <esmith6(at)satx.rr.com>
Subject: RV4-List: Cracked Engine Mount Weldments
> --> RV4-List message posted by: "Gene Smith"
>
> JKL Greg,
> This is probably all wrong, but something for all of us to think
about......you wrote, "cracks in the motor mount around the lower and middle
weldments next to the firewall area. I had gussets welded to this mount and
it should be stronger than ever."
> I might suggest that welding the mounts may have caused the "temper"
to be changed either softer or harder, which could cause excess movement, or
not enough, which possibly could cause the skin in that area to buckle. For
a critical area such as the engine mounts, I don't think I would let anyone
weld them unless they were a Certified Aircraft Welder, because that heat
has to be perfect for that type of metal.
> There is one other thing to think about......If there were no hard
landings, maybe crosswinds during landing or takeoff could be responsible.
Crosswinds can cause incredible side loads and torsion on all aspects of our
landing gear system and this is transferred throughout the entire attached
area of the fuselage......take a look at your tires after a good bout with a
crosswind, and think about all the rudder "kicking" that took place to just
stay on the runway..........CHEERS!!!!!! jK
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Subject: | Wiring in the Vertical Stabilizer? |
I didn't, but wish I had so I could wire a video camera lense back
there.
Do it now, just in case......
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of JCTV
> Sent: Monday, October 14, 2002 12:54 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Wiring in the Vertical Stabilizer?
>
>
>
> Just a quick question, I am about to rivet close my
> Vertical Stabilizer and wanted to know if I should run
> some string thru the ribs to pull cables with later?
>
> If so, what might I run thru there? (Antenna Coax,
> Power cable ???)
>
> Thanks,
>
> JC
>
>
> Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More
http://faith.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
Subject: | Re: Antenna location question |
My bent whip was mounted in the aft section of that same area. Basically,
the back side of seat pan area. The transponder was mounted on the opposite
side of this. There was not any interference at all with my Garmin GNC
250XL. Also, you still could not see the whip at that location because of
the flaps. I could transmit to the tower while inside of my hanger which is
on the opposite side of a large airport, and faces the opposite direction.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <HCRV6(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Antenna location question
>
> There's a lot in the archives on this subject but I could not find an
answer
> to my specific question so here goes. I am planning on locating my com
(bent
> whip) and transponder antennas in the opposite corners of the wing root
area
> where the gear weldments would be if I was building a 6A, inboard from the
> side skin about 6 in. on each side and an inch or so ahead of the spar. I
> would sure appreciate hearing from anyone who has done this pro or con on
> this location. I'm mostly concerned about the wing blocking the com
signal
> when I'm on the ground.
>
> Harry Crosby
> Pleasanton, California
> RV-6, electrical stuff
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Electric/Electric or Manual Trim |
I will be ordering the RV-7 empennage kit soon. I would appreciate comments
on setting up the trim. I am familiar with Van's manual and electric and
would go with the electric trim but I have also seen messages about an
electric trim from Gretz that puts the motor on the airframe instead of in
the elevator. What would you do if you were starting next week?
Thanks,
Andy Cobb
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ken Stribling" <ken(at)soundsuckers.com> |
Subject: | Re: Electric/Electric or Manual Trim |
I am flying a 6-A now and am thinking of starting a 9-A soon I will be going
with a manual trim the next time. The electric is to fast in cruise
configuration.
Ken S.
60 hrs and Building withdrawals
----- Original Message -----
From: <FLSKIER(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Electric/Electric or Manual Trim
>
> I will be ordering the RV-7 empennage kit soon. I would appreciate
comments
> on setting up the trim. I am familiar with Van's manual and electric and
> would go with the electric trim but I have also seen messages about an
> electric trim from Gretz that puts the motor on the airframe instead of in
> the elevator. What would you do if you were starting next week?
>
> Thanks,
> Andy Cobb
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Hank Landman" <pukndg(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | RV-4 Spinner and Prop Extension |
Hello All,
I own an older RV-4 (#4) fitted with a wooden prop. The aircraft was built with
a metal fixed pitch prop and then converted to the wooden one. A 4" prop extension
was installed which created a 1.5 inch gap between the cowling and the
spinner. I am looking to purchase (new or used) a 3" extension (6 hole, 7/16"
bolt) and 13" diameter spinner. I would like a high aspect ratio spinner, preferably
with a fairly sharp pointed nose. If anyone has such a spinner/extension
for sale or could lead me to a source, please advise.
Regards,
Hank Landman
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Don" <don(at)dmack.net> |
Subject: | Electric/Electric or Manual Trim |
Look at Matronics (our host):
The Governor Mk III is an adjustable electronic speed reduction and
switch multiplex for the MAC S4, 4A, S6, 6A, S8, and 8A electric
aircraft trim servos. It is designed to be used in any application where
an electric servo is used such as elevator, aileron, or rudder trim.
Each servo application will require a separate Governor Mk III unit.
http://www.matronics.com/governor/index.htm
Don Mack RV-6A finishing
www.dmack.net
I am flying a 6-A now and am thinking of starting a 9-A soon I will be
going with a manual trim the next time. The electric is to fast in
cruise configuration.
Ken S.
60 hrs and Building withdrawals
>
> I will be ordering the RV-7 empennage kit soon. I would appreciate
comments
> on setting up the trim. I am familiar with Van's manual and electric
> and would go with the electric trim but I have also seen messages
> about an electric trim from Gretz that puts the motor on the airframe
> instead of in the elevator. What would you do if you were starting
> next week?
>
> Thanks,
> Andy Cobb
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <michael.j.robbins(at)verizon.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV-8 Upper Gear Leg Fairing |
Norman;
I used between 3 and 4 layers of 8 oz cloth. The forward part is
thicker. They are quite stiff now. There really isn't room for any ribs
or stiffeners.
Mike Robbins RV8
>
>Wouldn't it be worth the effort to stiffen the fairings with some kind of
>ribbing on the inside?
>How many layers thick did you make them?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Fletcher Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Antenna location question |
Harry/Richard,
I have two com antennas mounted as you suggest, forward of the wing spar and as
wide as possible. I used doublers to stiffen a little. The transponder antenna
is located aft of the baggage compartment, probably could have been forward
of the wing spar as well. Anyway, all is well with the radios with the antennas
in these locations.
Pat Hatch
RV-6, N44PH, 30 hours
RV-4, N17PH, 700 hours
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Dudley
Subject: Re: RV-List: Antenna location question
Hi Harry,
I was about to ask the same question. Putting the com antennas in front
of the spar is especially attractive because it avoids going through or
around the spar. If they are toward the outside they avoid the exhaust
stream. I was also thinking seriously of putting the transponder and the
markerbeacon antennas forward of the spar ahead of the com antennas,
also toward the outside.
I'll be interested in other responses to your question.
Richard Dudley
-6A N331RD, about to hang the engine
HCRV6(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> There's a lot in the archives on this subject but I could not find an answer
> to my specific question so here goes. I am planning on locating my com (bent
> whip) and transponder antennas in the opposite corners of the wing root area
> where the gear weldments would be if I was building a 6A, inboard from the
> side skin about 6 in. on each side and an inch or so ahead of the spar. I
> would sure appreciate hearing from anyone who has done this pro or con on
> this location. I'm mostly concerned about the wing blocking the com signal
> when I'm on the ground.
>
> Harry Crosby
> Pleasanton, California
> RV-6, electrical stuff
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Electric/Electric or Manual Trim |
> I am flying a 6-A now and am thinking of starting a 9-A soon I will be
going
> with a manual trim the next time. The electric is to fast in cruise
> configuration.
>
What about a two speed switch on the elevator trim? Low speed at cruise and
reg speed when the flaps are down? Lots of info in the archives on how to do
this. It has been a hot topic on this list several times in the last few
years. Many RV drivers have the same complaint as you about the trim being
to touchy at cruise.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <karpinski(at)baldcom.net> |
Subject: | Picking a GPS for VRF |
Have been looking at panel mounted GPS display units for VFR use....(limited
panel space at 5" high max)
Garmin, Apollo, Bendix/King
It looks to me that the Bendix/King MDF-150 (with built in GPS receiver) @
$2800 give the most Bang for the Buck
Quick Comments ? + or - about the Bendix ?
Other makes/models you out there would consider.. ?
Keeping the space requirements and $$ in the same range ? and available
for owner installation.
**********************
Then.. As I see it... I can use the output from the MDF 150.. Which is
RS232..
To drive a future Trutrak DFC-200 which has GPss capability Nice..
_________________________
Al Karpinski
RV-8..
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
Subject: | Re: Electric/Electric or Manual Trim |
I had the electric, and would definately go manual next time. I had a
matronics govenor which helped, but it still doesn't give that seat of the
pants feel that a manual trim knob does. I felt myself chasing the trim
back and forth, instead of making minute twists very slowly with the manual
trim knob on the 6A that I am flying now.
More simple, and nothing to fail. Hands down I would go manual this time.
And, I'm kind of a gadget geek, and normally would go for the electric stuff
if I could, but not for the trim.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Electric/Electric or Manual Trim
>
> > I am flying a 6-A now and am thinking of starting a 9-A soon I will be
> going
> > with a manual trim the next time. The electric is to fast in cruise
> > configuration.
> >
>
> What about a two speed switch on the elevator trim? Low speed at cruise
and
> reg speed when the flaps are down? Lots of info in the archives on how to
do
> this. It has been a hot topic on this list several times in the last few
> years. Many RV drivers have the same complaint as you about the trim being
> to touchy at cruise.
>
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A Delta BC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
Subject: | Re: Picking a GPS for VRF |
I had the Garmin GNC250XL GPS/COMM. I loved it. Loaded with features and
has a great display. Price was about $2500. Great Comm, too. Never got
any complaints on my transmissions. All in a one space unit. If was
building another VFR ship, I would definately put this unit in again.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <karpinski(at)baldcom.net>
Subject: RV-List: Picking a GPS for VRF
>
>
> Have been looking at panel mounted GPS display units for VFR
use....(limited
> panel space at 5" high max)
>
> Garmin, Apollo, Bendix/King
>
> It looks to me that the Bendix/King MDF-150 (with built in GPS receiver)
@
> $2800 give the most Bang for the Buck
>
> Quick Comments ? + or - about the Bendix ?
>
> Other makes/models you out there would consider.. ?
>
> Keeping the space requirements and $$ in the same range ? and available
> for owner installation.
>
> **********************
>
> Then.. As I see it... I can use the output from the MDF 150.. Which is
> RS232..
>
> To drive a future Trutrak DFC-200 which has GPss capability Nice..
>
> _________________________
>
> Al Karpinski
> RV-8..
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
Subject: | Picking a GPS for VRF |
Hi Al,
I used a Skyforce IIICe, which is basically the same unit as the
KMD-150(MFD)-not sure about a "MDF-150", but a lot less money. Take a look
at my panel and you can see it installed @ http://www.steinair.com
It also has the RS232 outputs, as do most all units now including handhelds.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6, Minneapolis
Flying!!!!
Have been looking at panel mounted GPS display units for VFR use....(limited
panel space at 5" high max)
Garmin, Apollo, Bendix/King
It looks to me that the Bendix/King MDF-150 (with built in GPS receiver) @
$2800 give the most Bang for the Buck
Quick Comments ? + or - about the Bendix ?
Other makes/models you out there would consider.. ?
Keeping the space requirements and $$ in the same range ? and available
for owner installation.
**********************
Then.. As I see it... I can use the output from the MDF 150.. Which is
RS232..
To drive a future Trutrak DFC-200 which has GPss capability Nice..
_________________________
Al Karpinski
RV-8..
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV4-List: RV-4 Spinner and Prop Extension |
Hank;
It sounds like you have a newer Constant speed
cowling with a 4" extension for the older cowling. You
can still buy a 2" extension drilled for 7/16 bolts
from Van's and accomplish the mission. Aircraft Spruce
has the spinner you desire..
Rob Ray
--- Hank Landman wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: "Hank Landman"
>
>
> Hello All,
>
> I own an older RV-4 (#4) fitted with a wooden prop.
> The aircraft was built with a metal fixed pitch prop
> and then converted to the wooden one. A 4" prop
> extension was installed which created a 1.5 inch gap
> between the cowling and the spinner. I am looking
> to purchase (new or used) a 3" extension (6 hole,
> 7/16" bolt) and 13" diameter spinner. I would like
> a high aspect ratio spinner, preferably with a
> fairly sharp pointed nose. If anyone has such a
> spinner/extension for sale or could lead me to a
> source, please advise.
>
> Regards,
>
> Hank Landman
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More
http://faith.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <karpinski(at)baldcom.net> |
Subject: | Picking a GPS for VRF & Typo's ! |
Sorry All :<
It's absolutely amazing that no matter how may times I proof read and spell
check a posting..
I still end up with major typo's
KDM-150... (NOT MDF-150 %%$$@!
!!! I have no idea where these typo's
come from..)
**************************
Also forgot to add I really would like nice moving map..
and the KMD has terrain elevation info displayed too..
The Apollo has it to.. for a lot more $$
Gamin does not have the terrain / elevation color contouring...
The KMD has 232 output... But no ARINC29 for GSss
Skyforce IIICe??.. Can't find info on that model at the Bendix/King Web
site..... I find a SkyMap IIIC ?
***********
Last question..
Are the Garmin GNS 430/530 only available for "Autorized Dealer
Instalation.." ?
I was told that by Aircreaft Spruce..
Sorry
No archive.
_________________________
Al Karpinski RV-8
Jordan NY .. Snow Tomorrow !
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Stein Bruch
Subject: RE: RV-List: Picking a GPS for VRF
Hi Al,
I used a Skyforce IIICe, which is basically the same unit as the
KMD-150(MFD)-not sure about a "MDF-150", but a lot less money. Take a look
at my panel and you can see it installed @ http://www.steinair.com
It also has the RS232 outputs, as do most all units now including handhelds.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6, Minneapolis
Flying!!!!
Have been looking at panel mounted GPS display units for VFR use....(limited
panel space at 5" high max)
Garmin, Apollo, Bendix/King
It looks to me that the Bendix/King MDF-150 (with built in GPS receiver) @
$2800 give the most Bang for the Buck
Quick Comments ? + or - about the Bendix ?
Other makes/models you out there would consider.. ?
Keeping the space requirements and $$ in the same range ? and available
for owner installation.
**********************
Then.. As I see it... I can use the output from the MDF 150.. Which is
RS232..
To drive a future Trutrak DFC-200 which has GPss capability Nice..
_________________________
Al Karpinski
RV-8..
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Fw: RV4-List: Cracked Engine Mount Weldments |
Yes, they do, unless you build it with .040 fuselage
sides to begin with...check for cracks at the lower
corners of the firewall below the ldg gear attch
points on your annual...
RR
--- "C. Rabaut" wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut"
>
>
> In addition to all that Gene listed below... RV-4's
> firewalls have a
> tendency to buckle.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Gene Smith <esmith6(at)satx.rr.com>
> To: rv4-list
> Subject: RV4-List: Cracked Engine Mount Weldments
>
>
> > --> RV4-List message posted by: "Gene Smith"
>
> >
> > JKL Greg,
> > This is probably all wrong, but something for
> all of us to think
> about......you wrote, "cracks in the motor mount
> around the lower and middle
> weldments next to the firewall area. I had gussets
> welded to this mount and
> it should be stronger than ever."
> > I might suggest that welding the mounts may
> have caused the "temper"
> to be changed either softer or harder, which could
> cause excess movement, or
> not enough, which possibly could cause the skin in
> that area to buckle. For
> a critical area such as the engine mounts, I don't
> think I would let anyone
> weld them unless they were a Certified Aircraft
> Welder, because that heat
> has to be perfect for that type of metal.
> > There is one other thing to think
> about......If there were no hard
> landings, maybe crosswinds during landing or takeoff
> could be responsible.
> Crosswinds can cause incredible side loads and
> torsion on all aspects of our
> landing gear system and this is transferred
> throughout the entire attached
> area of the fuselage......take a look at your tires
> after a good bout with a
> crosswind, and think about all the rudder "kicking"
> that took place to just
> stay on the runway..........CHEERS!!!!!! jK
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More
http://faith.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Cracked Engine Mount Weldments |
Amen on the rough strip. Mine is 900' long and rough.
No mount cracks yet, but my firewall has hairline
cracks below the mounts...
Rob Ray
--- Richard Bibb wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: "Richard Bibb"
>
>
> Operation from rough field can add to the stress.
> As for crosswind
> landings - work on technique - you ought to ba able
> to touch down one wing
> low if necessary to avoid landing in a crab with
> resulting big swerve/side
> loads....
>
> Richard
> RV-4 N144KT ( Rebuilding and installing new canopy)
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More
http://faith.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
Subject: | Picking a GPS for VRF |
Al,
I have the Skymap IIIC and my hangar mates have the KMD-150. They work the
same and both are excellent choices. The KMD-150 is easier to panel mount
and can drive the auto pilot, and cost more. These are the easiest GPS's
to use and are readable in sunlight. The only better choices, IMHO, cost
much more; for example the MX-20, Garmin 430 or 530.
Ken Harrill
RV-6, 98 hours in five months
Columbia, SC
Have been looking at panel mounted GPS display units for VFR use....(limited
panel space at 5" high max)
Garmin, Apollo, Bendix/King
It looks to me that the Bendix/King MDF-150 (with built in GPS receiver) @
$2800 give the most Bang for the Buck
Quick Comments ? + or - about the Bendix ?
Other makes/models you out there would consider.. ?
Keeping the space requirements and $$ in the same range ? and available
for owner installation.
**********************
Then.. As I see it... I can use the output from the MDF 150.. Which is
RS232..
To drive a future Trutrak DFC-200 which has GPss capability Nice..
_________________________
Al Karpinski
RV-8..
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <karpinski(at)baldcom.net> |
"Rv-List(at)Matronics. Com"
Subject: | RE: King GPS.. More ! |
Clear Day
Thanks for the feedback.. :> !!
*****************************************************************
I called Bendix and asked a few questions..
Yep.. same units Skymap IIIC and KMD-150 .. Except...
No "Nonglare" coating on Skymap.. (OK. I can live with that...)
As you say....KMD has lighted buttons.. !! :> !!
But...
Skymap can not "Directly Drive" Autopilot.. "But can with an aftermarket
black box.?. not up on it.?? . but I guess another $500 black box..?? )
Other costs they said.. with Skymap..
You will want a $310 external low profile antenna..
If you rack mount add another $250 for panel mount..
So... $600 added on the $1.8K base cost... and you are at $2.4K for
Skymap.. Installed.... But can take it with you..
Maybe $500?? more for RS232 black box converter if an autopilot is
used... so $2.9K
$2.8K for KMD-150 .. and you can drive an autopilot directly ... But it
stays in the plane.. (I expect that we all will be in our own plane
99.997% of the time)
**********************************************************
The wisdom of Solomon is needed here !
Skymap.. 150.?. Skymap.. 150..?? Skymap.. 150..??? Skymap.. 150..
????... 150 ! :>
No Archive...
_________________________
Al Karpinski
-----Original Message-----
From: Stein Bruch [mailto:stein(at)steinair.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 15, 2002 4:53 PM
To: karpinski(at)baldcom.net
Subject: RE: King GPS..
Hi Al,
As you've noticed, they are in fact the same units, except for a couple of
things.
Physically the screen, menue, etc.. are the exact same. The only
difference in the KMD is the panel mounting, and a few options like lighted
keypad buttons.
The big benefit to the skymap is it can also be panel mounted, like I did,
and with a quick push it pops out for you to take it along wherever you
desire.
I'm one who just like the BIG maps, and the color topography is great. My
unit is working flawlessly, and now that I've flown with it I like it even
more.
Good luck and happy building,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: karpinski(at)baldcom.net [mailto:karpinski(at)baldcom.net]
Sent: Tuesday, October 15, 2002 4:04 PM
To: stein(at)steinair.com
Subject: King GPS..
Just thought I would bother you off line...
It looks like the KMD-15 and the SkyMap IIIC are the same ?
The Skymap is $1.7K and the KMD150 is $ 2.8K saving $1K and having a
Portable !!
I will make a call to Bendix/King to see.. but it sure looks that
way...
Thanks..
_________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard V. Reynolds" <rvreynolds(at)macs.net> |
czech-list(at)matronics.com, europa-list(at)matronics.com, ez-list(at)matronics.com,
glasair-list(at)matronics.com, homebuilt-list(at)matronics.com,
kolb-list(at)matronics.com, kr-list(at)matronics.com, lancair-list(at)matronics.com,
pelican-list(at)matronics.com, pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com,
piper-list(at)matronics.com, pitts-list(at)matronics.com,
rocket-list(at)matronics.com, rv4-list(at)matronics.com, rv6-list(at)matronics.com,
rv7-list(at)matronics.com, rv8-list(at)matronics.com, sonerai-list(at)matronics.com,
tailwind-list(at)matronics.com, ultralight-list(at)matronics.com,
warbird-list(at)matronics.com, yak-list(at)matronics.com,
zenith-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: | EAA Chapter 339 Fall Fly-In |
EAA Chapter 339 Fall Fly-In
Saturday, October 19, 2002, Hampton Roads Exec (PVG), Virginia, 9AM till
7PM
Hampton Roads Exec (PVG) is 13.5nm SW of Norfolk, Virginia (253 radial
(ORF)
AWOS 118.375
CTAF 123.0
The weather will really be a perfect Virginia fall day!
Aircraft parking is off taxiway between Rwy 23 and T-Hangars East of
Airport Terminal
Schedule of Events
Fly-In Begins 9AM
Food all Day 10AM - 3PM
Poker Run (Walk Around Field)
Project Visits on Field
Aircraft Judging 11AM - 3PM, All Categories, Antiques, Classics,
Homebuilts, Warbirds
Social Hour 4PM
Dinner 5PM - 7PM, BBQ Sandwiches, Chicken, Drinks
Local motels/hotels are available
For More Information
Frank Toy 757-460-3680
ftoy(at)att.net
Richard Reynolds 757-627-8743
rvreynolds(at)macs.net
EAA Chapter 339
http://home.earthlink.net/~avyator/
Hampton Roads Exec Airport
http://www.hamptonroadsexecutiveairport.com/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
Listers,
Would you like a portrait of your very own RV?
A very nice, quiet spoken gentleman named George Webb paints aircraft on consignment.
He is an Retired Air Force photographer that has an undying love for aviation and
painting aircraft. He is a very highly skilled and creative artist. Some of
his works can be viewed at:
http://www.hambletongalleries.com/dynamic/Artwork/PublicDisplay_7_226_RV6.htm
http://www.hambletongalleries.com/dynamic/artists/WebbGeorge_public.htm
I have known George for some years and I'm pleased to see his beautiful works receiving
recognition.
He lives here in Kelowna BC.Canada he can be contacted at by phone at (250) 765-4481
I offer this information without expectation of any type of financial reward.
Jim in Kelowna
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV4-List: EAA Chapter 339 Fall Fly-In |
I might just make it!
RR
--- "Richard V. Reynolds" wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: "Richard V.
> Reynolds"
>
> EAA Chapter 339 Fall Fly-In
>
> Saturday, October 19, 2002, Hampton Roads Exec
> (PVG), Virginia, 9AM till
> 7PM
> Hampton Roads Exec (PVG) is 13.5nm SW of Norfolk,
> Virginia (253 radial
> (ORF)
> AWOS 118.375
> CTAF 123.0
>
> The weather will really be a perfect Virginia fall
> day!
>
> Aircraft parking is off taxiway between Rwy 23 and
> T-Hangars East of
> Airport Terminal
>
> Schedule of Events
> Fly-In Begins 9AM
> Food all Day 10AM - 3PM
> Poker Run (Walk Around Field)
> Project Visits on Field
> Aircraft Judging 11AM - 3PM, All Categories,
> Antiques, Classics,
> Homebuilts, Warbirds
> Social Hour 4PM
> Dinner 5PM - 7PM, BBQ Sandwiches, Chicken, Drinks
>
> Local motels/hotels are available
> For More Information
>
> Frank Toy 757-460-3680
> ftoy(at)att.net
> Richard Reynolds 757-627-8743
> rvreynolds(at)macs.net
> EAA Chapter 339
> http://home.earthlink.net/~avyator/
> Hampton Roads Exec Airport
>
http://www.hamptonroadsexecutiveairport.com/index.html
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More
http://faith.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
Subject: | Re: PDA-based product opinions |
I have had the Anywhere Map and flew with it to OSH from Colorado this
summer, and around the state for the past year. I find it a very nice unit.
I like the 28-day updates of the data base over the internet for (I believe
I paid) $115 for a year...also daily SFR updates if you want them for free.
The tech support seems quite good, and they have a user web site where a lot
of good info and questions come up...rather like the RV Matronics net for
AWM users.
I compare the AWM against my Lowrance (which runs my Nav Aid wing leveler in
flight) and they compare exactly.
Overall I am a happy camper with the AWM
FWIW
John at Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Electric/Electric or Manual Trim |
Your experience is opposite of mine I had manual and would not go back to
it for anything. I love the electric trim I retro fit and I do not have a
governor. I have the rocker switch mounted in my stick grip and just bump it
with my thumb, it works great. Maybe the new version of the manual trim
is better than what we had when I built my RV-6. There was just to much slop
in the cable where it made the bend to the console and I had to trim constantly.
Jerry
Paul Besing wrote:
>
>
> I had the electric, and would definately go manual next time. I had a
> matronics govenor which helped, but it still doesn't give that seat of the
> pants feel that a manual trim knob does. I felt myself chasing the trim
> back and forth, instead of making minute twists very slowly with the manual
> trim knob on the 6A that I am flying now.
>
> More simple, and nothing to fail. Hands down I would go manual this time.
> And, I'm kind of a gadget geek, and normally would go for the electric stuff
> if I could, but not for the trim.
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Electric/Electric or Manual Trim
>
> >
> > > I am flying a 6-A now and am thinking of starting a 9-A soon I will be
> > going
> > > with a manual trim the next time. The electric is to fast in cruise
> > > configuration.
> > >
> >
> > What about a two speed switch on the elevator trim? Low speed at cruise
> and
> > reg speed when the flaps are down? Lots of info in the archives on how to
> do
> > this. It has been a hot topic on this list several times in the last few
> > years. Many RV drivers have the same complaint as you about the trim being
> > to touchy at cruise.
> >
> > Norman Hunger
> > RV6A Delta BC
> >
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: PDA-based product opinions |
There's a new unit similar to the anywhere map in that it uses a pda for
display. I saw it at Copperstate and they gave me a demo disk to try out
comparing it to anywhere map which I currently use. It's a bit early but so
far I'm impressed. Try PCAvionics at www.mountainscope.com for a looksee.
Albert Gardner, Yuma, AZ
RV-9A: N872RV
Working on panel
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
Subject: | Re: Electric/Electric or Manual Trim |
It must be. This is on a new airplane. It is very tight, no slop
whatsover. Just a hair twist of the knob, and you got it. I had the
electric trim on my hat switch, as well, but just had to always tweak it.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Springer" <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Electric/Electric or Manual Trim
>
> Your experience is opposite of mine I had manual and would not go back to
> it for anything. I love the electric trim I retro fit and I do not have a
> governor. I have the rocker switch mounted in my stick grip and just bump
it
> with my thumb, it works great. Maybe the new version of the manual trim
> is better than what we had when I built my RV-6. There was just to much
slop
> in the cable where it made the bend to the console and I had to trim
constantly.
>
> Jerry
>
> Paul Besing wrote:
> >
> >
> > I had the electric, and would definately go manual next time. I had a
> > matronics govenor which helped, but it still doesn't give that seat of
the
> > pants feel that a manual trim knob does. I felt myself chasing the trim
> > back and forth, instead of making minute twists very slowly with the
manual
> > trim knob on the 6A that I am flying now.
> >
> > More simple, and nothing to fail. Hands down I would go manual this
time.
> > And, I'm kind of a gadget geek, and normally would go for the electric
stuff
> > if I could, but not for the trim.
> >
> > Paul Besing
> > RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
> > http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> > Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> > http://www.kitlog.com
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
> > To:
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Electric/Electric or Manual Trim
> >
> > >
> > > > I am flying a 6-A now and am thinking of starting a 9-A soon I will
be
> > > going
> > > > with a manual trim the next time. The electric is to fast in cruise
> > > > configuration.
> > > >
> > >
> > > What about a two speed switch on the elevator trim? Low speed at
cruise
> > and
> > > reg speed when the flaps are down? Lots of info in the archives on how
to
> > do
> > > this. It has been a hot topic on this list several times in the last
few
> > > years. Many RV drivers have the same complaint as you about the trim
being
> > > to touchy at cruise.
> > >
> > > Norman Hunger
> > > RV6A Delta BC
> > >
> > >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Electric/Electric or Manual Trim |
From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
This is a tough one. Most people seem to greatly prefer the manual trim.
If you don't mind the big ugly knob and extra weight, go for it, it does
have a nice feel. I was willing to pay extra to get rid of it.
When I let builders fly my plane and don't give them any warning, they
always over control the electric trim because they invariably hold down the
rocker switch and wait for the stick to move. The plane goes into a dive or
climb and the chase is on.
On the other hand when I tell them to "blip blip blip" the trim switch in
very short bursts they quickly get the hang of it. The faster you are
going, the shorter the blips. This is the way I always trimmed in the Air
Force planes I flew.
Like Jerry , I greatly prefer the electric elevator trim. It is a lighter
system, and frees up some good real estate between the seats. Very reliable
and trouble free.
My observation in that almost all who have flown with "stick" or yoke trim
before, will adapt quickly to the electric trim. Those who have flown only
with a trim wheel or lever prefer the manual because it works more like they
are used to, and it does have a "feel" to it which greatly reduces the
chance of over controlling. Probably this is because if you go too far on
the manual you can instantly put it back where it was. With the electric,
its former position is lost in a sea of electrons somewhere and can never be
found again. The manual system is also cheaper.
There is also the fear of "runaway trim" which seems to pervade the RV list
guys. This is a real scary problem especially on airplanes with stabilizer
trim and limited elevator control. Runaway trim could eat your lunch in a
real hurry in a B-52. Personally I don't see it as a big problem on the RV,
but that is just one man's opinion. I do however have a pull able circuit
breaker for it.
My opinion, having flown both, is they both are excellent systems. I don't
think the shortcomings or strengths of either system are show stoppers.
There is nothing dumb, stupid or dangerous about either. Go for the one
you prefer. Go fly with both, and decide.
Personally I think the electric is a far better system. Most folks seem to
prefer the heavy ugly manual system. I understand that . A lot of those
are the same old fashioned folks who prefer tail wheels. Go figure.
I have a governor but have not touched it in 1075 hours of flying.
Denis
> From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net>
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 18:24:11 -0700
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Electric/Electric or Manual Trim
>
>
> Your experience is opposite of mine I had manual and would not go back to
> it for anything. I love the electric trim I retro fit and I do not have a
> governor. I have the rocker switch mounted in my stick grip and just bump it
> with my thumb, it works great. Maybe the new version of the manual trim
> is better than what we had when I built my RV-6. There was just to much slop
> in the cable where it made the bend to the console and I had to trim
> constantly.
>
> Jerry
>
> Paul Besing wrote:
>>
>>
>> I had the electric, and would definately go manual next time. I had a
>> matronics govenor which helped, but it still doesn't give that seat of the
>> pants feel that a manual trim knob does. I felt myself chasing the trim
>> back and forth, instead of making minute twists very slowly with the manual
>> trim knob on the 6A that I am flying now.
>>
>> More simple, and nothing to fail. Hands down I would go manual this time.
>> And, I'm kind of a gadget geek, and normally would go for the electric stuff
>> if I could, but not for the trim.
>>
>> Paul Besing
>> RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
>> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
>> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
>> http://www.kitlog.com
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
>> To:
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: Electric/Electric or Manual Trim
>>
>>>
>>>> I am flying a 6-A now and am thinking of starting a 9-A soon I will be
>>> going
>>>> with a manual trim the next time. The electric is to fast in cruise
>>>> configuration.
>>>>
>>>
>>> What about a two speed switch on the elevator trim? Low speed at cruise
>> and
>>> reg speed when the flaps are down? Lots of info in the archives on how to
>> do
>>> this. It has been a hot topic on this list several times in the last few
>>> years. Many RV drivers have the same complaint as you about the trim being
>>> to touchy at cruise.
>>>
>>> Norman Hunger
>>> RV6A Delta BC
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
Subject: | 664SB 3 Hour Report (LONG)! |
Hi All,
I just got back from another wonderful flight in my NEW RV6, and as promised
I'm posting a "few" of my first impressions. I'll try to keep it short, but
there's just so much to tell, even in such a short amount of time! It's been
pretty windy here in Minneapolis so I haven't yet got to experience this
thing on a crystal clear, perfectly calm day, but I'm waiting.
1...TAKEOFFS. Not much to say, the plane is a rocket ship! Tail up, and I'm
flying before I know it. Good dose of right rudder required, but not a huge
deal. Climb at 110-120 produces 1500-2000' climb.
2...CRUISE. What else can I say. The thing is AWESOME. By the way of some
miracle and the grace of God, I seem to have built a straight airplane. It
flies hands off and the ball is perfectly centered, no heavy wing either.
Even though I have NOT yet installed the gear leg fairings or wheel pants, I
can easily overspeed the engine O-360/85"sensenich - at 8,000 feet
(2700+RPM), had to pull the throttle to keep the RPM's down to 2700,
183mph-Unverified (only used a quick 4 point directional "box" flight on
cardinal headings to extrapolate), more to come in progressive flights. FYI,
I climbed above the clouds (8500') today, and it was perfectly smooth and
beautiful!
3...INSTRUMENTS. My IK-2000 Engine Monitor is a DREAM. All CHT's, EGT's,
Airspeed, Fuel flow, Fuel Level RPM, Oil press/Temp, Volts, Fuel pressure,
OAT, density altitude, Pressure Altitude, Manifold Pressure, etc.. are all
easy to watch, since ALL I have to look for is the green or red bars. ALL at
a QUICK SCAN/GLANCE, no watching the instruments constantly. Today the only
red I had was oil temp, seems I need to block off the oil cooler (30 degree
F OAT), hard to get the oil temps above 170-will fix that tomorrow. The GPS
(Skymapp IIIc), is also a dream, since my plane lives under class B, its
nice to see when I clear each ring and can quickly climb to the next level
(it's an RV after all). My wingtip NAV(right wing) is unbelievable, works
better than anything I've seen. The wintip comm (left wing) is another
story, Once I am a couple thousand feet high, it seems to work fine, but low
down, I can tell that it definately suffers when the wing is directly away
from an airport. I've already decided to install a whip on the belly, maybe
this weekend or next (I know, it's a sin to dirty up this perfectly clean
airplane and lose a knot or two, but what the heck)!
4...STALLS. I guess they are typical RV, but since these are my first
exposure to them, I'll report on them anyway. Power off stalls (Heavily
Loaded) are happening clean around 50-52mph, dirty 56-58mph. Stalls are
abrupt, with a very clean break, and VERY LITTLE buffet or warning.
Straight forward when clean, but a slight right wing drop when dirty,
however nothing unsettling.
5...LANDINGS. Keeping in mind that I'm landing on a short (1800'x40') grass
runway with trees at one end and 7' tall corn on both sides, I'm doing
surprisingly well. Since I don't have the luxury of a long "Lear Jet" type
pattern, I've been using 90 in the pattern, 80 on final, and slowing over
the fence. I add a bit of power in the flare, and VouiLa, I get a decent
landing! I landed at another aiport today on their 1500' strip in a slight
crosswind. I wish I had a camera, because it was a sqeaker! I've also
found out the rudder is rather stiff, but that's only compared to the rest
of the controls, which are smooth as silk. Side slips are fun and a great
help, was able to slow from 100 to landing on one rather unsightly approach
today with a good hefty slip all the way to the ground! I'm doing all three
pointers for now, maybe later I'll practice some wheel landing at a strip
that's a bit longer, wider, and smoother.
6...OVERALL. Did I mention this plane is AWESOME! I'll fill in more details
as I get more flights on the plane. I need to do LOTS of flying the numbers
and getting them recorded.
If you have any specific questions that I forgot, please contact me off
list. Also if you have a cure for this grin that won't go away, let me
know!
Thanks again to all who have helped me along the way, I can definately say I
wouldn't have near the plane I do without the support of this list.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6, Minneapolis
FLYING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
http://www.steinair.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: RV4-List: URGENT BUSINESS PROPOSAL |
In a message dated 10/15/2002 8:26:07 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
chukwuebuka02uc(at)yahoo.com writes:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: "DR.EBUKA D AGUSON" <
> chukwuebuka02uc(at)yahoo.com>
>
> DR.EBUKA D AGUSON
>
> FEDERAL MINISTRY OF PETROLUEM RESOURCES(F.M.P.R)
>
> LAGOS NIGERIA.
>
> ATTN:SIR,
>
> REQUEST FOR ASSISTANCE- STRICTLY CONFIDENTIAL
>
> I am Dr EBUKA AGUSON, an accountant in the Ministry of
> petroleum Resources (MPR) and a member of a
> three-man Tender Board in charge of contract review
> and payment approvals. I came to know of you in my
> search for a reliable person to handle a very
> confidential transaction that involves the transfer of
> a huge sum of money to a foreign account. It may
> sound strange but exercise patience and read on.
>
> There were series of contracts executed by a
> consortium Multinational in the Oil industry in favor
> of Ministry of Petroleum Resources among which were:
>
> 1. The extension of pipeline network within Nigeria
> for crude oil, Down stream products distribution and
> subsequent evacuation- US$ 195 Million.
>
> 2. Contract for the Turn Around Maintenance (TAM) of
> the various refineries in the country~ US$ 152
> Million.
>
> 3. The construction of storage tanks for petroleum
> products (Depots) US$240 Million.
>
> The original values of this contract were deliberately
> over invoiced to the sum of US $35.5million American
> Dollars which has now been approved and is now ready
> to be transferred being that the companies
> that actually executed these contracts has been fully
> paid and project officially commissioned.
> consequently, my colleagues and I are willing to
> transfer the total amount to your account for
> subsequent disbursement since we are Civil Servant
> and are prohibited by the Code of Conduct Bureau
> (Civil Servant Laws) from opening operating foreign
> account in our names. Needless to say, the trust posed
> on you at this juncture is enormous. In return, we
> have agreed to offer you 30% of the transferred sum
> while 10% shall be set aside for accidental expenses
> (Internal & External) between the parties in the
> course of the transfer. We will mandate you to draw
> up an investment plan for us of which you will
> control since we cannot bring our shares back to
> Nigeria. We are very interested in investing in real
> estate in your country. You must however note that
> this transaction is subjected to the following terms
> and conditions:
>
> 1. Our conviction of your transparent honesty and
> diligence.
>
> 2. That you would treat this transaction with utmost
> secrecy and confidentiality because of the
> circumstances we now find ourselves.
>
> 3. That the funds would be transferred to an account
> over which you have absolute control. Modalities
> have been worked out at the highest level of the
> presidency at the Central Bank of Nigeria for the
> immediate transfer of the funds within 14 working
> days, subject to your satisfaction of the above stated
> terms. Our assurance is that your role is 100% risk
> free. To accord this transaction, the legality it
> deserves and for mutual security of the parties
> involved and the funds, the whole approval procedures
> will be officially and legally processed with your
> name or the name of your company you may nominate
> as the bonafide beneficiary. Also, be informed that
> our main reason of contacting you is for the obvious
> reason that we will want to invest these funds in the
> real estate. It is our believe that you can be of
> immense help in this regards.
>
> Kindly expedite action so as to enable us include this
> transaction into this batch as payment to foreign
> contractors is usually carried out on quarterly
> basis.
>
>
> Best regards,
>
> DR.EBUKA D AGUSON
>
>
Hey I am transparently honest....Sure, hot damm....where do I sign
up?.....who can I send all my money to? I can take my net worth plus my kids
college fund, cash in my 401K, barrow some cash from my sister, fly every
other weekend instead of every week, wow! what a deal! This is the best
internet offer yet! This must be a true deal because the offer is from a real
Doctor with one hell of a title on the RV list...I am so excited now I might
be able to really afford my RV-4 and be just like all those guys I fly with,
they all have endless amounts of cash and multiple paid off credit cards,
this is triple bitchen man! I am ready!...........................lets see!
..........I have $ 139.42 lets get started. I do have just one
question.......................Do you need all of that at once or can I make
payments.
Tim Barnes
Meangreen RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
Subject: | Re: RV-8 Upper Gear Leg Fairing |
OK Mike, How about going to an auto parts store and getting some double
sided tape. The real good stuff is used for holding on trim and body
moulding. It is a thin stiff foam with major sticking properties and good to
be out in weather. Run it along the edges where the fairing meets the fuse
skin. Maybe it will help.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
>
> Norman;
>
> I used between 3 and 4 layers of 8 oz cloth. The forward part is
> thicker. They are quite stiff now. There really isn't room for any ribs
> or stiffeners.
>
> Mike Robbins RV8
>
>
> >
> >Wouldn't it be worth the effort to stiffen the fairings with some kind of
> >ribbing on the inside?
> >How many layers thick did you make them?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard V. Reynolds" <rvreynolds(at)macs.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV4-List: EAA Chapter 339 Fall Fly-In |
The allure of perfect Virginia weather must have done it. Now can we
deliver??
Richard Reynolds
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Starn" <jhstarn(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV4-List: URGENT BUSINESS PROPOSAL |
It sounds like ole meangreen has shoved his tongue so far into his cheek
that it's wrapped about his eye teeth so he can't see what he's saying. Do
Not Archive I've gotten at least three slightly differant offers on
the same subject (spelled "SCAM") KABONG
----- Original Message -----
From: <MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV4-List: URGENT BUSINESS PROPOSAL
>
> > --> RV4-List message posted by: "DR.EBUKA D AGUSON" <
> > chukwuebuka02uc(at)yahoo.com>
> >
> > DR.EBUKA D AGUSON
> >
> > FEDERAL MINISTRY OF PETROLUEM RESOURCES(F.M.P.R)
> >
> > LAGOS NIGERIA.
>
> Hey I am transparently honest....Sure, hot damm....where do I sign
> up?.....who can I send all my money to? I can take my net worth plus my
kids
> college fund, cash in my 401K, barrow some cash from my sister, fly every
> other weekend instead of every week, wow! what a deal! This is the best
> internet offer yet! This must be a true deal because the offer is from a
real
> Doctor with one hell of a title on the RV list...I am so excited now I
might
> be able to really afford my RV-4 and be just like all those guys I fly
with,
> they all have endless amounts of cash and multiple paid off credit cards,
> this is triple bitchen man! I am ready!...........................lets
see!
> ..........I have $ 139.42 lets get started. I do have just one
> question.......................Do you need all of that at once or can I
make
> payments.
>
> Tim Barnes
> Meangreen RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Electric/Electric or Manual Trim |
I concur with Jerry, I had manual trim on my RV-4, found it to be too
sloppy, converted to electric and now love it. Have the electric on my RV-6
too. I will admit a bias towards electric trim because that's what I fly at
work, so to each his/her own, it's too bad you couldn't try both, though.
Pat Hatch
RV-4, N17PH, 700 hrs
O-320, Hartzell C/S
RV-6, N44PH, 30 hrs
O-360, Hartzell C/S
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Springer" <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Electric/Electric or Manual Trim
>
> Your experience is opposite of mine I had manual and would not go back to
> it for anything. I love the electric trim I retro fit and I do not have a
> governor. I have the rocker switch mounted in my stick grip and just bump
it
> with my thumb, it works great. Maybe the new version of the manual trim
> is better than what we had when I built my RV-6. There was just to much
slop
> in the cable where it made the bend to the console and I had to trim
constantly.
>
> Jerry
>
> Paul Besing wrote:
> >
> >
> > I had the electric, and would definately go manual next time. I had a
> > matronics govenor which helped, but it still doesn't give that seat of
the
> > pants feel that a manual trim knob does. I felt myself chasing the trim
> > back and forth, instead of making minute twists very slowly with the
manual
> > trim knob on the 6A that I am flying now.
> >
> > More simple, and nothing to fail. Hands down I would go manual this
time.
> > And, I'm kind of a gadget geek, and normally would go for the electric
stuff
> > if I could, but not for the trim.
> >
> > Paul Besing
> > RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
> > http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> > Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> > http://www.kitlog.com
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
> > To:
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Electric/Electric or Manual Trim
> >
> > >
> > > > I am flying a 6-A now and am thinking of starting a 9-A soon I will
be
> > > going
> > > > with a manual trim the next time. The electric is to fast in cruise
> > > > configuration.
> > > >
> > >
> > > What about a two speed switch on the elevator trim? Low speed at
cruise
> > and
> > > reg speed when the flaps are down? Lots of info in the archives on how
to
> > do
> > > this. It has been a hot topic on this list several times in the last
few
> > > years. Many RV drivers have the same complaint as you about the trim
being
> > > to touchy at cruise.
> > >
> > > Norman Hunger
> > > RV6A Delta BC
> > >
> > >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: 664SB 3 Hour Report (LONG)! |
In a message dated 10/15/2002 9:47:15 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
stein(at)steinair.com writes:
> Power off stalls (Heavily
> Loaded) are happening clean around 50-52mph, dirty 56-58mph.
Stein-
Do you really mean to say that your stall with flaps is at a higher airspeed
than without? If so, this could be a power source for perpetual motion.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 572hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Craig Brenden" <brencotool(at)abq.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV6-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 10/15/02 |
N29RV "By Faith"
RV6-A
0-360 with Bendix Mags
Recently I've been getting some jumps or spikes on my electric tach after
the plane warms up (15 min after takeoff).I've got all my circuit breaker
switches in a row and if the landing light, the nav lights, or the strobe
lights are on, the tach starts to bounce up from a normal reading to about
300-400 rpm above normal and then back to normal. Does anyone know of a line
filter or something that might help avoid the interference the tach is
receiving?
Craig
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randy Garrett" <rgarrett7(at)attbi.com> |
Subject: | Electric/Electric or Manual Trim |
I bought the Gretz electric trim for my 6A. It is really the MAC / Ray
Allen servo with a special extension that goes from the servo to the trim
tab. Mounting it was easy and it seems to work fine after 30 hours flying.
It does not come with the wire you will need to connect it to the trim
switch and trim indicator, though Ray Allen sells the wire you will need ...
it's about 5 or 6 small wires in one bundle. You will also need some kind
of connectors unless you want to solder the whole thing into one complete
unit. I used AMP connectors that I got from Mouser Electronics, though you
could probably find something similar from any fairly reasonable electronics
supply house.
I have also used the manual trim on another 6A. To me, they both worked
fine. You do have to be a little light on the touch in adjust the electric
trim at cruise. Basically, you just "bleep" it with a quick touch. I was
prepared to use the 2-speed governor, but I haven't had any need for it.
You could always put it in later.
I got used to the electric trim very quickly. I use trim a lot and I am
picky about having it "hands off" so that it holds airspeed with no assist
from me. I haven't had any problem doing that with the electric.
So, I think you will be okay with either choice.
Randy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV4-List: URGENT BUSINESS PROPOSAL |
How do you spell, IMCLONE....What does this have to do
with RV4's?
RR
--- "DR.EBUKA D AGUSON"
wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: "DR.EBUKA D
> AGUSON"
>
> DR.EBUKA D AGUSON
>
> FEDERAL MINISTRY OF PETROLUEM RESOURCES(F.M.P.R)
>
> LAGOS NIGERIA.
>
> ATTN:SIR,
>
> REQUEST FOR ASSISTANCE-
> STRICTLY CONFIDENTIAL
>
> I am Dr EBUKA AGUSON, an accountant in the Ministry
> of
> petroleum Resources (MPR) and a member of a
> three-man Tender Board in charge of contract review
> and payment approvals. I came to know of you in my
> search for a reliable person to handle a very
> confidential transaction that involves the transfer
> of
> a huge sum of money to a foreign account. It may
> sound strange but exercise patience and read on.
>
> There were series of contracts executed by a
> consortium Multinational in the Oil industry in
> favor
> of Ministry of Petroleum Resources among which
> were:
>
> 1. The extension of pipeline network within Nigeria
> for crude oil, Down stream products distribution
> and
> subsequent evacuation- US$ 195 Million.
>
> 2. Contract for the Turn Around Maintenance (TAM) of
> the various refineries in the country~ US$ 152
> Million.
>
> 3. The construction of storage tanks for petroleum
> products (Depots) US$240 Million.
>
> The original values of this contract were
> deliberately
> over invoiced to the sum of US $35.5million
> American
> Dollars which has now been approved and is now
> ready
> to be transferred being that the companies
> that actually executed these contracts has been
> fully
> paid and project officially commissioned.
> consequently, my colleagues and I are willing to
> transfer the total amount to your account for
> subsequent disbursement since we are Civil Servant
> and are prohibited by the Code of Conduct Bureau
> (Civil Servant Laws) from opening operating foreign
> account in our names. Needless to say, the trust
> posed
> on you at this juncture is enormous. In return, we
> have agreed to offer you 30% of the transferred sum
> while 10% shall be set aside for accidental
> expenses
> (Internal & External) between the parties in the
> course of the transfer. We will mandate you to draw
> up an investment plan for us of which you will
> control since we cannot bring our shares back to
> Nigeria. We are very interested in investing in real
> estate in your country. You must however note that
> this transaction is subjected to the following
> terms
> and conditions:
>
> 1. Our conviction of your transparent honesty and
> diligence.
>
> 2. That you would treat this transaction with utmost
> secrecy and confidentiality because of the
> circumstances we now find ourselves.
>
> 3. That the funds would be transferred to an account
> over which you have absolute control. Modalities
> have been worked out at the highest level of the
> presidency at the Central Bank of Nigeria for the
> immediate transfer of the funds within 14 working
> days, subject to your satisfaction of the above
> stated
> terms. Our assurance is that your role is 100% risk
> free. To accord this transaction, the legality it
> deserves and for mutual security of the parties
> involved and the funds, the whole approval
> procedures
> will be officially and legally processed with your
> name or the name of your company you may nominate
> as the bonafide beneficiary. Also, be informed
> that
> our main reason of contacting you is for the
> obvious
> reason that we will want to invest these funds in
> the
> real estate. It is our believe that you can be of
> immense help in this regards.
>
> Kindly expedite action so as to enable us include
> this
> transaction into this batch as payment to foreign
> contractors is usually carried out on quarterly
> basis.
>
>
> Best regards,
>
> DR.EBUKA D AGUSON
>
>
>
>
>
>
Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More
http://faith.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Electric/Electric or Manual Trim |
From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Ok I'll toss my opinion into the fray too:
I'll weigh in with Jerry on this one...although my own RV isn't flying yet, I've
flown quite a bit in two RV's that both use the manual trim. My main complaint
is that the slop in the system results in more "hunting" for a trim equilibrium.
I don't care for the big gnarly knob in the cockpit either, and it's heavier.
I went with electric trim and have a speed reducer (governor) that will
be activated by a microswitch when the flaps are up.
I'm also planning a switch for trim power that could be used to kill power in the
highly unlikely event of runaway trim...I've never heard of it happening in
an RV but it's a reasonable and easy precaution. I would not allow failure modes
to be a significant consideration in whether to use manual or electric trim.
Remember a manual trim system is a mechanical device and it can fail too,
although in different modes than electric trim.
Best thing I can say about manual trim is it's cheaper and simpler.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D canopy skirts (still...)
From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Electric/Electric or Manual Trim
Your experience is opposite of mine I had manual and would not go back to
it for anything. I love the electric trim I retro fit and I do not have a
governor. I have the rocker switch mounted in my stick grip and just bump it
with my thumb, it works great. Maybe the new version of the manual trim
is better than what we had when I built my RV-6. There was just to much slop
in the cable where it made the bend to the console and I had to trim constantly.
Jerry
Paul Besing wrote:
>
>
> I had the electric, and would definately go manual next time. I had a
> matronics govenor which helped, but it still doesn't give that seat of the
> pants feel that a manual trim knob does. I felt myself chasing the trim
> back and forth, instead of making minute twists very slowly with the manual
> trim knob on the 6A that I am flying now.
>
> More simple, and nothing to fail. Hands down I would go manual this time.
> And, I'm kind of a gadget geek, and normally would go for the electric stuff
> if I could, but not for the trim.
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com> |
Subject: | Electric/Electric or Manual Trim |
Has anyone tried lengthening the arm on the trim tab so that more travel is
required to
move the trim tab? This would yield less travel over a given actuation time.
Ed Cole
RV6A N2169D Flying (manual trim)
RV6A N 648RV Finishing
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Randy Garrett [SMTP:rgarrett7(at)attbi.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2002 10:27 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Electric/Electric or Manual Trim
>
>
> I bought the Gretz electric trim for my 6A. It is really the MAC / Ray
> Allen servo with a special extension that goes from the servo to the trim
> tab. Mounting it was easy and it seems to work fine after 30 hours
> flying.
> It does not come with the wire you will need to connect it to the trim
> switch and trim indicator, though Ray Allen sells the wire you will need
> ...
> it's about 5 or 6 small wires in one bundle. You will also need some kind
> of connectors unless you want to solder the whole thing into one complete
> unit. I used AMP connectors that I got from Mouser Electronics, though
> you
> could probably find something similar from any fairly reasonable
> electronics
> supply house.
>
> I have also used the manual trim on another 6A. To me, they both worked
> fine. You do have to be a little light on the touch in adjust the
> electric
> trim at cruise. Basically, you just "bleep" it with a quick touch. I was
> prepared to use the 2-speed governor, but I haven't had any need for it.
> You could always put it in later.
>
> I got used to the electric trim very quickly. I use trim a lot and I am
> picky about having it "hands off" so that it holds airspeed with no assist
> from me. I haven't had any problem doing that with the electric.
>
> So, I think you will be okay with either choice.
>
> Randy
>
>
>
>
>
Maxim Home Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com
Products Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com/MaximProducts/products.htm
New Products:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/new_products.cfm
Datasheets:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/l_datasheet3.cfm
The information contained in this message is confidential
and may be legally privileged. The message is intended
solely for the addressee(s). If you are not the intended
recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, dissemination,
or reproduction is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful.
If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender
by return e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Murphy, Richard James (Rick)" <rjmurphy1(at)lucent.com> |
Subject: | RE: RV4-List: URGENT BUSINESS PROPOSAL |
If you guys haven't seen this before it is a big time web scam. New twist on an
aold sham. They just want to deposit a large sum of money into your bank account
(of course they need the acct number)and you get to keep the interest. Cept
when you go back to look at your balance, there is no money there, not theirs,
not yours, nothing. They bomb the web with this message hoping to get 1 out
of 1000 to respond. Best defense is to hit the delete key.
A twist on this scheme is that they pose as the Aviation Minister in Charge of
Disposal of Surplus Aircraft for East BumbDiddy and have 10 P51's (or somesuch)
in the crate since 1951 to dispose of and need a US import rep. IF you put up
the ($10,000) import bond, you get to (keep/have a share etc) in one airplane.
Delete, Delete, Delete. Don't even answer these people back.
Rick Murphy
-----Original Message-----
From: rob ray [mailto:smokyray(at)yahoo.com]
Subject: Re: RV4-List: URGENT BUSINESS PROPOSAL
--> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray
How do you spell, IMCLONE....What does this have to do
with RV4's?
RR
--- "DR.EBUKA D AGUSON"
wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: "DR.EBUKA D
> AGUSON"
>
> DR.EBUKA D AGUSON
>
> FEDERAL MINISTRY OF PETROLUEM RESOURCES(F.M.P.R)
>
> LAGOS NIGERIA.
>
> ATTN:SIR,
>
> REQUEST FOR ASSISTANCE-
> STRICTLY CONFIDENTIAL
>
> I am Dr EBUKA AGUSON, an accountant in the Ministry
> of
> petroleum Resources (MPR) and a member of a
> three-man Tender Board in charge of contract review
> and payment approvals. I came to know of you in my
> search for a reliable person to handle a very
> confidential transaction that involves the transfer
> of
> a huge sum of money to a foreign account. It may
> sound strange but exercise patience and read on.
>
> There were series of contracts executed by a
> consortium Multinational in the Oil industry in
> favor
> of Ministry of Petroleum Resources among which
> were:
>
> 1. The extension of pipeline network within Nigeria
> for crude oil, Down stream products distribution
> and
> subsequent evacuation- US$ 195 Million.
>
> 2. Contract for the Turn Around Maintenance (TAM) of
> the various refineries in the country~ US$ 152
> Million.
>
> 3. The construction of storage tanks for petroleum
> products (Depots) US$240 Million.
>
> The original values of this contract were
> deliberately
> over invoiced to the sum of US $35.5million
> American
> Dollars which has now been approved and is now
> ready
> to be transferred being that the companies
> that actually executed these contracts has been
> fully
> paid and project officially commissioned.
> consequently, my colleagues and I are willing to
> transfer the total amount to your account for
> subsequent disbursement since we are Civil Servant
> and are prohibited by the Code of Conduct Bureau
> (Civil Servant Laws) from opening operating foreign
> account in our names. Needless to say, the trust
> posed
> on you at this juncture is enormous. In return, we
> have agreed to offer you 30% of the transferred sum
> while 10% shall be set aside for accidental
> expenses
> (Internal & External) between the parties in the
> course of the transfer. We will mandate you to draw
> up an investment plan for us of which you will
> control since we cannot bring our shares back to
> Nigeria. We are very interested in investing in real
> estate in your country. You must however note that
> this transaction is subjected to the following
> terms
> and conditions:
>
> 1. Our conviction of your transparent honesty and
> diligence.
>
> 2. That you would treat this transaction with utmost
> secrecy and confidentiality because of the
> circumstances we now find ourselves.
>
> 3. That the funds would be transferred to an account
> over which you have absolute control. Modalities
> have been worked out at the highest level of the
> presidency at the Central Bank of Nigeria for the
> immediate transfer of the funds within 14 working
> days, subject to your satisfaction of the above
> stated
> terms. Our assurance is that your role is 100% risk
> free. To accord this transaction, the legality it
> deserves and for mutual security of the parties
> involved and the funds, the whole approval
> procedures
> will be officially and legally processed with your
> name or the name of your company you may nominate
> as the bonafide beneficiary. Also, be informed
> that
> our main reason of contacting you is for the
> obvious
> reason that we will want to invest these funds in
> the
> real estate. It is our believe that you can be of
> immense help in this regards.
>
> Kindly expedite action so as to enable us include
> this
> transaction into this batch as payment to foreign
> contractors is usually carried out on quarterly
> basis.
>
>
> Best regards,
>
> DR.EBUKA D AGUSON
>
>
>
>
>
>
Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More
http://faith.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Cracked Engine Mount Weldments |
Note: forwarded message attached.
Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More
http://faith.yahoo.com
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 19:18:11 -0500
From: arvil(at)bellsouth.net
Subject: Re: Fwd: Re: RV4-List: Cracked Engine Mount Weldments
Rob,
under normal or even rough landings the mounts should not crack'
The early engine mount brackets at the upper and lower corners were
first fused welded by vans supplyer, by that I mean the to parts were
layed togather and useing a heliarc welder heated so the metal would
melt or fuse togather with no filler rod added this makes for a real
perty weld
and a week joint at the point where the two metals join togather , Vans
has now went to a little thicker metal on the mount brackets and filler
weld is added to the bracket as it is being welded, tho this has solved
most of the cracking it has not stoped the mount brackets from being
damaged from hard landings, to help reduce the damage from accruing
angel gusets should be added two to each corner at 90 drgees to each
other and a large washer on the inside of the mount bracket to help keep
the bolt from dishing the mount face where the bolt go,s through the
motor mount bracket ,fire wall and motor mount, I also recommen putting
the bolt through the motor mount bracket from the inside so the threads
are faceing forward and extend through the motor mount boss this keeps
the threads from being in the location of the highest stress point and
less likly to snap a bolt on a hard landing
Arvil
rob ray wrote:
>
> Note: forwarded message attached.
>
> __________________________________________________
> Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More
> http://faith.yahoo.com
>
>
> Subject: Re: RV4-List: Cracked Engine Mount Weldments
> Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 19:06:26 -0500
> From: Greg Hunsicker <gh2538(at)cjnetworks.com>
> Reply-To: rv4-list(at)matronics.com
> To: rv4-list(at)matronics.com
>
> --> RV4-List message posted by: Greg Hunsicker
>
> I had the mount tig welded as per Vans directions. I do appreciate your
> thoughts though on the subject. In my case I had a couple pretty hard
> landings doing some very short field practice. For my sake I am glad
> that my practice has been made perfect.
>
> Greg Hunsicker
>
> Gene Smith wrote:
>
> >--> RV4-List message posted by: "Gene Smith"
> >
> >JKL Greg,
> > This is probably all wrong, but something for all of us to think about......you
wrote, "cracks in the motor mount around the lower and middle weldments
next to the firewall area. I had gussets welded to this mount and it should
be stronger than ever."
> > I might suggest that welding the mounts may have caused the "temper" to
be changed either softer or harder, which could cause excess movement, or not
enough, which possibly could cause the skin in that area to buckle. For a critical
area such as the engine mounts, I don't think I would let anyone weld
them unless they were a Certified Aircraft Welder, because that heat has to be
perfect for that type of metal.
> > There is one other thing to think about......If there were no hard landings,
maybe crosswinds during landing or takeoff could be responsible. Crosswinds
can cause incredible side loads and torsion on all aspects of our landing
gear system and this is transferred throughout the entire attached area of the
fuselage......take a look at your tires after a good bout with a crosswind,
and think about all the rudder "kicking" that took place to just stay on the runway..........CHEERS!!!!!!
jK
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
Subject: | Re: PDA-based product opinions |
Todd,
I'm building an RV-6 and not yet at the stage of buying and installing
instruments, nav, com, etc. However, I am fascinated by the GPS & map
technology. At Oshkosh in 2001 I visited the Anywhere Map booth (I think)
and it all sounded great. That was before the iPaq & Palm Pilot revolution
rolled into the flying arena big time. Back then I went over and looked at
another booth for sources for a color multi-function display (MFD)/screen.
Now folks are using the iPaq.
Can you please give me a brief "block diagram description" of the iPaq +
Anywhere Map system? I assume there is a hand held GPS connected to provide
position data to the map software. Does any old hand held support such an
interface? Is the interface a serial cable from gps to iPaq?
I suppose "fact #1", the main driving factor in your case, is the iPaq
screen is bigger than a typical "handheld gps"'s screen, so bigger is
better. True?
I suppose "fact #2" is that you can't get Anywhere Map's features in a gps,
which is why you need a separate computer & screen (iPaq). True?
What would be the next level of increased value above the iPaq - a larger
dedicated MFD (bigger screen)? Are those things still in the $5000 range?
If you buy the digital terrain database CD's, does the iPaq have enough
memory to hold all or selected geographic portions of the CD's terrain
data - so you can get the "out the front windscreen view" of terrain in
front of the flight path? (where a line goes out and intersect any terrain
higher than your current gps altitude)?
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Todd Wenzel" <TWenzel@heartland-software.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: PDA-based product opinions
<TWenzel@Heartland-Software.com>
>
> Hi Dan,
> I'm using the AnywhereMap on my iPaq and absolutely love it!. In fact, I
> plan on going with it, perhaps with a backup unit running an electronic
> horizon, on my -8A. I may go with the weather option down the road a bit
> when the -8A is flying. I have no experience with the NavGPS so I can't
> comment on that. I have used a Garmin 295 on a club's C-172, and I can
> honestly say the AnywhereMap is heads-and-shoulders above the 295 in
> ease of use and functionality. Not to mention I can take it out of the
> cockpit and use the iPaq as my primary schedule/contacts/notes/maps/etc.
> organizer. Just my opinion...
>
> Todd Wenzel
> Delafield, WI USA
> RV-8AQB - Finish Kit (savin' for 1940's technology engine)
> TWenzel@Heartland-Software.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dan Checkoway [mailto:dan(at)rvproject.com]
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: PDA-based product opinions
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <karpinski(at)baldcom.net> |
Subject: | Best web sites for used avionics? |
Guys...
Have any input for best sites for used avionics ??
Gyro's, Nav/GPS.. autopilots..
Al Karpinski
Jordan NY RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "3 rotor" <rv8r300(at)attbi.com> |
Subject: | Re: Electric/Electric or Manual Trim |
I question whether a trim kill switch could be activated in time to be
useful. I had my trim take off once, turns out I left a wire disconnected
and it grounded against the frame allowing only down trim. By the time I
figured out what was going on I had full down trim. I flew another 1/2 hr.,
landed, disconnected the trim cable and taped the tab in place for the
return trip. Not really a big deal or worthy of further complexity IMHO.
kevin -6A 800hrs
> I'm also planning a switch for trim power that could be used to kill power
in the highly unlikely event of runaway trim...I've never heard of it
happening in an RV but it's a reasonable and easy precaution.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Picking a GPS for VRF |
Al,
I'd recommend a Garmin 295. It's my understanding that it can feed the A/P.
We mounted ours IN the glare shield (you can take a look at the pictures we
posted on Matronics picture section that were posted last week. We found
that the location does not impact visiblity and is sort of lkie a HUD. My
experience has been that I much perfer to keep my head out of the cockpit.
In addition, the 295 has an output that we will be using for the A/P.
Good building,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: <karpinski(at)baldcom.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Picking a GPS for VRF Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 13:39:15
>-0400
>
>
>Have been looking at panel mounted GPS display units for VFR
>use....(limited
>panel space at 5" high max)
>
>Garmin, Apollo, Bendix/King
>
>It looks to me that the Bendix/King MDF-150 (with built in GPS receiver)
>@
>$2800 give the most Bang for the Buck
>
>Quick Comments ? + or - about the Bendix ?
>
>Other makes/models you out there would consider.. ?
>
>Keeping the space requirements and $$ in the same range ? and available
>for owner installation.
>
>**********************
>
>Then.. As I see it... I can use the output from the MDF 150.. Which is
>RS232..
>
>To drive a future Trutrak DFC-200 which has GPss capability Nice..
>
>_________________________
>
>Al Karpinski
>RV-8..
>
>
Internet access plans that fit your lifestyle -- join MSN.
http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/default.asp
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV4-List: URGENT BUSINESS PROPOSAL |
----- Original Message -----
From: rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV4-List: URGENT BUSINESS PROPOSAL
>
> How do you spell, IMCLONE....What does this have to do
> with RV4's?
>
> RR
> --- "DR.EBUKA D AGUSON"
> wrote:
> > --> RV4-List message posted by: "DR.EBUKA D
> > AGUSON"
> >
> > DR.EBUKA D AGUSON
> >
> > FEDERAL MINISTRY OF PETROLUEM RESOURCES(F.M.P.R)
> >
> > LAGOS NIGERIA.
> >
> > ATTN:SIR,
> >
> > REQUEST FOR ASSISTANCE-
> > STRICTLY CONFIDENTIAL
> >
> > I am Dr EBUKA AGUSON, an accountant in the Ministry
> > of
> > petroleum Resources (MPR) and a member of a
> > three-man Tender Board in charge of contract review
> > and payment approvals. I came to know of you in my
> > search for a reliable person to handle a very
> > confidential transaction that involves the transfer
> > of
> > a huge sum of money to a foreign account. It may
> > sound strange but exercise patience and read on.
> >
> > There were series of contracts executed by a
> > consortium Multinational in the Oil industry in
> > favor
> > of Ministry of Petroleum Resources among which
> > were:
> >
> > 1. The extension of pipeline network within Nigeria
> > for crude oil, Down stream products distribution
> > and
> > subsequent evacuation- US$ 195 Million.
> >
> > 2. Contract for the Turn Around Maintenance (TAM) of
> > the various refineries in the country~ US$ 152
> > Million.
> >
> > 3. The construction of storage tanks for petroleum
> > products (Depots) US$240 Million.
> >
> > The original values of this contract were
> > deliberately
> > over invoiced to the sum of US $35.5million
> > American
> > Dollars which has now been approved and is now
> > ready
> > to be transferred being that the companies
> > that actually executed these contracts has been
> > fully
> > paid and project officially commissioned.
> > consequently, my colleagues and I are willing to
> > transfer the total amount to your account for
> > subsequent disbursement since we are Civil Servant
> > and are prohibited by the Code of Conduct Bureau
> > (Civil Servant Laws) from opening operating foreign
> > account in our names. Needless to say, the trust
> > posed
> > on you at this juncture is enormous. In return, we
> > have agreed to offer you 30% of the transferred sum
> > while 10% shall be set aside for accidental
> > expenses
> > (Internal & External) between the parties in the
> > course of the transfer. We will mandate you to draw
> > up an investment plan for us of which you will
> > control since we cannot bring our shares back to
> > Nigeria. We are very interested in investing in real
> > estate in your country. You must however note that
> > this transaction is subjected to the following
> > terms
> > and conditions:
> >
> > 1. Our conviction of your transparent honesty and
> > diligence.
> >
> > 2. That you would treat this transaction with utmost
> > secrecy and confidentiality because of the
> > circumstances we now find ourselves.
> >
> > 3. That the funds would be transferred to an account
> > over which you have absolute control. Modalities
> > have been worked out at the highest level of the
> > presidency at the Central Bank of Nigeria for the
> > immediate transfer of the funds within 14 working
> > days, subject to your satisfaction of the above
> > stated
> > terms. Our assurance is that your role is 100% risk
> > free. To accord this transaction, the legality it
> > deserves and for mutual security of the parties
> > involved and the funds, the whole approval
> > procedures
> > will be officially and legally processed with your
> > name or the name of your company you may nominate
> > as the bonafide beneficiary. Also, be informed
> > that
> > our main reason of contacting you is for the
> > obvious
> > reason that we will want to invest these funds in
> > the
> > real estate. It is our believe that you can be of
> > immense help in this regards.
> >
> > Kindly expedite action so as to enable us include
> > this
> > transaction into this batch as payment to foreign
> > contractors is usually carried out on quarterly
> > basis.
> >
> >
> > Best regards,
> >
> > DR.EBUKA D AGUSON
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More
> http://faith.yahoo.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | Re: PDA-based product opinions |
David Carter wrote:
>
>
> Todd,
>
> I'm building an RV-6 and not yet at the stage of buying and installing
> instruments, nav, com, etc. However, I am fascinated by the GPS & map
> technology. At Oshkosh in 2001 I visited the Anywhere Map booth (I think)
> and it all sounded great. That was before the iPaq & Palm Pilot revolution
> rolled into the flying arena big time. Back then I went over and looked at
> another booth for sources for a color multi-function display (MFD)/screen.
> Now folks are using the iPaq.
>
> Can you please give me a brief "block diagram description" of the iPaq +
> Anywhere Map system? I assume there is a hand held GPS connected to provide
> position data to the map software. Does any old hand held support such an
> interface? Is the interface a serial cable from gps to iPaq?
>
> I suppose "fact #1", the main driving factor in your case, is the iPaq
> screen is bigger than a typical "handheld gps"'s screen, so bigger is
> better. True?
>
> I suppose "fact #2" is that you can't get Anywhere Map's features in a gps,
> which is why you need a separate computer & screen (iPaq). True?
>
> What would be the next level of increased value above the iPaq - a larger
> dedicated MFD (bigger screen)? Are those things still in the $5000 range?
>
> If you buy the digital terrain database CD's, does the iPaq have enough
> memory to hold all or selected geographic portions of the CD's terrain
> data - so you can get the "out the front windscreen view" of terrain in
> front of the flight path? (where a line goes out and intersect any terrain
> higher than your current gps altitude)?
>
> David Carter
>
All these questions and much, much more are answered on the Control
Vision website and in their user forum:
http://www.controlvision.com
http://www.controlvision.com/pages/awm_db.htm
The AnywhereMap Users Forum archives are an invaluable source of info
from folks who have installed the system in many different ways, and
have worked through the various glitches inherent in new technology.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: RV4-List: URGENT BUSINESS PROPOSAL |
In a message dated 10/16/2002 7:05:40 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
jhstarn(at)earthlink.net writes:
>
> It sounds like ole meangreen has shoved his tongue so far into his cheek
> that it's wrapped about his eye teeth so he can't see what he's saying.
> Do
> Not Archive I've gotten at least three slightly differant offers on
> the same subject (spelled "SCAM") KABONG
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Re: RV4-List: URGENT BUSINESS PROPOSAL
>
Ok now you can talk all you want about me but leave Meangreen out of this,
she is just setting pretty in a hangar just waiting for me to PUSH the button
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: RV4-List: URGENT BUSINESS PROPOSAL |
In a message dated 10/16/2002 7:05:40 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
jhstarn(at)earthlink.net writes:
> It sounds like ole meangreen has shoved his tongue so far into his cheek
> that it's wrapped about his eye teeth so he can't see what he's saying.
> Do
> Not Archive I've gotten at least three slightly differant offers on
> the same subject (spelled "SCAM") KABONG
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Re: RV4-List: URGENT BUSINESS PROPOSAL
>
Just for the record I know this is a bunch of BS and I too hate to see this
kind of crap hit the list but last night I was feeling like being a smart
ass. The only part of my comment that was true was the $139.42. Thats good
for 6 hours of awsome flying.
Tim Barnes
Meangreen RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
Original-Encoded-Information-Types: IA5-Text
From: | Jim Truitt <Jim.Truitt(at)usdoj.gov> |
Subject: | RV-List Digest: Picking a GPS for VFR |
I bought the KMD 150 at Oshkosh this past summer, but I haven't flown
with it (still building). I got a very good price through American Avionics
($2750.00).
I, too, was looking at the Skymap, mainly because it was cheaper, with
very similar features. But I was told that the mounting rack for the
Skymap was extra (included with the KMD 150) and that a separate
inteface cable was needed with the Skymap to use it with a Nav-aid (not
needed with the KMD).
So, in the end there wasn't as much price difference between the two
when you included the installation.
The difference was still several hundred dollars, but, to me, there wasn't
enough difference to justify buying a unit that is really intended as a
handheld when I wanted a panel mount.
Depends on your outlook (and wallet) I guess.
Jim Truitt
RV-8A (working)
N627TT Reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Phil Birkelbach" <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
Subject: | Re: Electric/Electric or Manual Trim |
Okay I've got one for you guys that are flying the electric trim. I am
working on a microcontroller based trim controller that will be pretty
smart. I am putting an airspeed sensor in it so that it can change the trim
speed with airspeed. (It may be overkill but I am learning something right)
I also intend a runaway trim protection feature. The feature will require
that the device watch for some unusual behavior of the trim switches and
shut down the appropriate switch. Since the pilot and co-pilot will have
separate switches (pilot priority voting also included) it would be possible
to get the trim back to where it should be using the other guy's switch once
the controller determines that your switch is bad.
Okay here are the questions... If I use a timer to determine failure what
time should I use? 5 seconds, 10 seconds, a minute I don't want the thing
to kick out a good switch because the pilot just held it on for too long.
How long will you ever need to be moving the trim in any given direction at
once, and what other failures have you seen that may contribute to a runaway
situation?
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Fuselage
http://www.myrv7.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "3 rotor" <rv8r300(at)attbi.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Electric/Electric or Manual Trim
>
> I question whether a trim kill switch could be activated in time to be
> useful. I had my trim take off once, turns out I left a wire disconnected
> and it grounded against the frame allowing only down trim. By the time I
> figured out what was going on I had full down trim. I flew another 1/2
hr.,
> landed, disconnected the trim cable and taped the tab in place for the
> return trip. Not really a big deal or worthy of further complexity IMHO.
> kevin -6A 800hrs
>
> > I'm also planning a switch for trim power that could be used to kill
power
> in the highly unlikely event of runaway trim...I've never heard of it
> happening in an RV but it's a reasonable and easy precaution.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
Subject: | 6 kit for sale/I am back |
Hello Guys,
Long time no talk to... I am almost mended. Dental work yet and a few
scars but it appears that I will recover fully. I now feel that the crash has
been one of, if not the best thing that has ever happened to me. Without
taking up space to explain, let me say two words that should sum it all
up-REPENTANCE AND OBEDIENCE. If any of you want to discuss that more, contact
me off list.
It looks as if the engine failure was a result of a dry gas tank. The
fuel selector was switched to a tank that was dry.
I have come across a 6 project that of course, I will not fly but l am
going to sell.
The project has very very good workmanship, on gear finishing kit completed,
but lacks any air time, instruments/radios, and has a Mazda auto engine. I
may just finish this bird up and replace the engine with a Lycoming-mid time
or what ever I can find. Then again, I may sell as is. Any thoughts as to an
asking price as is?
Or would I be better off to finish it and then sell as a completed plane.
Again, I have no plans to ever fly again. It's a long story how I came across
this thing.
Let me know what you guys think.
Bob in Arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | PDA-based product opinions |
David,
A "block diagram" of the configuration I am using has the iPaq PDA, a
very nice and solid yolk mount, and an integrated cable that has a
Garmin GPS receiver, 12v "accessory" connector (aka cigarette lighter)
and a small connector that plugs into the bottom of the iPaq. You should
be able to see pictures of the options at http://www.anywheremap.com/ .
You need to have the external 12v power since the iPaq does not have
anywhere enough "juice" to power the GPS receiver. I place the GPS
receiver on top of the glare shield in any plane I fly - I have never
had any problem capturing or retaining GPS satellites.
SNIP "...is the iPaq screen is bigger than a typical "handheld GPS's
screen".
I think in general the iPaq's screen is approximately the same size as
many handheld, dedicated GPS's.
SNIP "...you can't get Anywhere Map's features in a gps, which is why
you need a separate computer & screen (iPaq). True?"
I wouldn't say this is true. You can get many of the features found in
the AWM application in other dedicated GPS's. The BIG difference, is
since AWM is based on "generic" hardware (the iPaq) and by virtue of AWM
being primarily a program, you can, and DO, get additional features with
new releases of the AWM software. When you buy a dedicated handheld GPS,
the features you buy are what you have until you replace the entire unit
with a new dedicated GPS. With an iPaq and AWM (or other application)
you can get a "new" product every couple of months - if you want the new
features. Also, the yearly software support is only around $115. This
allows you to download from the internet any updates to the software,
plus database updates and daily TRF area - VERY useful and easy.
SNIP "What would be the next level of increased value above the iPaq - a
larger dedicated MFD (bigger screen)? Are those things still in the
$5000 range?"
I don't think it is really fair to compare a handheld PDA with a
panel-mount MFD. However, that is really the closest comparison. I don't
know what the MFD's run in price, since I never seriously considered
one, aside from a Garmin 430/530 which is hideously priced. I still
think we will not see the flexibility or speed to market with products
built for a MFD. The mere fact that the potential market is so small
with panel-mount MFD's is a huge barrier to profitable innovation from
potential manufacturers.
SNIP "If you buy the digital terrain database CD's, does the iPaq have
enough memory to hold all or selected geographic portions of the CD's
terrain data - so you can get the "out the front windscreen view" of
terrain in front of the flight path? (where a line goes out and
intersect any terrain higher than your current gps altitude)?"
If you are referring to the "Mountain Scope" product for terrain, I know
nothing about it and only just discovered it from this list. In general,
answering if the iPaq has enough memory for such applications can only
take the form of "maybe". It all really depends how efficient the
software and terrain database is that you are interested in. It is
possible to add more memory to an iPaq with memory cards. So far, I'm
running a "stock" iPaq with 64meg RAM. I have the AWM loaded with many
of the detailed databases like inland lakes, roads, terrain. I also have
all of the pocket office products loaded in addition to pocket maps with
diving maps of 5 counties surrounding my home. I also have a bunch of
other misc. office files and synchronize my contacts and schedule with
Outlook. I still have plenty of memory available. I haven't seen any
programs with the sophistication you are referring to regarding terrain
and flight paths for the iPaq, however, if that technology proves to be
useful, I have no doubt you will see it appearing for the iPaq and at a
small fraction of the cost.
Hope this helps.
Todd Wenzel
Delafield, WI USA
RV-8AQB - Finish Kit
TWenzel@Heartland-Software.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: 6 kit for sale/I am back |
----- Original Message -----
From: <Bobpaulo(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: 6 kit for sale/I am back
>
> Hello Guys,
> Long time no talk to... I am almost mended. Dental work yet and a
few
> scars but it appears that I will recover fully. I now feel that the crash
has
> been one of, if not the best thing that has ever happened to me. Without
> taking up space to explain, let me say two words that should sum it all
> up-REPENTANCE AND OBEDIENCE. If any of you want to discuss that more,
contact
> me off list.
> It looks as if the engine failure was a result of a dry gas tank.
The
> fuel selector was switched to a tank that was dry.
> I have come across a 6 project that of course, I will not fly but l
am
> going to sell.
> The project has very very good workmanship, on gear finishing kit
completed,
> but lacks any air time, instruments/radios, and has a Mazda auto engine. I
> may just finish this bird up and replace the engine with a Lycoming-mid
time
> or what ever I can find. Then again, I may sell as is. Any thoughts as to
an
> asking price as is?
> Or would I be better off to finish it and then sell as a completed plane.
> Again, I have no plans to ever fly again. It's a long story how I came
across
> this thing.
> Let me know what you guys think.
> Bob in Arkansas
>
Hi Bob,
Glad to hear your are steadily getting better, hope the rapid progress
continues.
I noticed your offer of a RV-6 project with a Mazda Auto Engine. I fly a
RV-6A with a rotary engine and I belong to two e mail list which has Rotary
Engine and Aircraft enthusiast. With your permission, I would like to
submit this to the two lists. You may get some interest in the project with
the Mazda Engine and save you from perhaps having to convert it to a
Lycoming before selling it.
Let me hear from you
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mark McGee" <riveter(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Hooker seat belt installation |
I plan on installing Hooker harnesses in my RV-4 and need someone to tell me
the mounting requirements. Specifically, what bolt diameter is used for the
seat belt and harness attachments? And what type of mounting will the crotch
strap need? I know some builders have just provided a slot for the strap to
go through. If just a slot, how wide?
Thanks,
Mark McGee
RV-4 fuselage, skinning
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
Subject: | Manual Trim Slop |
I'm having trouble understanding the manual trim slop that people are referring
to. The RV-6A that I am test flying right now has absolutely no slop. It is
the most precise control I could imagine. It resembles the control effectiveness
and tightness of the control stick on an RV. It literally takes 1/2 turn
or less to get it perfect. I have never hunted for the trim spot on this airplane.
The only thing I can think of is that Van changed the cable. There is nothing
more precise for trim as far as I'm concerned. (At least with the airplane I
am flying) The electric trim on my RV-6A that I sold was sloppy in that you couldn't
really "feel" what you kind of trim inputs you were putting in. It's
almost like you just guess how long to hold the switch down and see if that works.
With the manual, you just make ever so slight adjustments and you can feel
the airplane trim out.
FWIW, just my personal observations. I'm not a manual trim purist by any means.
I wish the electric trim worked better for me. I just can't see how it can
with the precise control I have now. Does anyone know if Van changed the trim
cable in recent years?
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
Subject: | Re: Electric/Electric or Manual Trim |
Someone here has to chime in on the other side. These are simple sport
airplanes, not federation starships.
Van's standard manual trim with a vernier control works just fine. It is
obvious to use, gives good control, has good feel, its simple, light weight,
will not over run, will not get stuck, does not need its own electrical
system or its own integrated computer.
Granted, it doesn't have the "cool" factor, but neither does making your
girl friend help muscle back the stick because the damn thing over ran in
the wrong direction or shorted itself out just as your turning base.
If it ain't there; it can't break. Or, (and I can't believe I'm quoting
George Bush); "simplicate, simplicate, simplicate."
Andy
>
I am
> working on a microcontroller based trim controller that will be pretty
> smart. I am putting an airspeed sensor in it so that it can change the
trim
> speed with airspeed. (It may be overkill but I am learning something
right)
> I also intend a runaway trim protection feature. The feature will require
> that the device watch for some unusual behavior of the trim switches and
> shut down the appropriate switch. Since the pilot and co-pilot will have
> separate switches (pilot priority voting also included) it would be
possible
> to get the trim back to where it should be using the other guy's switch
once
> the controller determines that your switch is bad.
>
> Okay here are the questions... If I use a timer to determine failure what
> time should I use? 5 seconds, 10 seconds, a minute I don't want the
thing
> to kick out a good switch because the pilot just held it on for too long.
> How long will you ever need to be moving the trim in any given direction
at
> once, and what other failures have you seen that may contribute to a
runaway
> situation?
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
Subject: | Electric/Electric or Manual Trim |
> Has anyone tried lengthening the arm on the trim tab so that
> more travel is required to move the trim tab? This would
> yield less travel over a given actuation time.
>
It would also limit the total trim tab travel (don't know if that would
be a problem - probably only if you trim for inverted flight). Related
to this, I recently repositioned the center of travel on my electric
trim to give me more nose up trim. I found that with fuel load on the
full side and solo, I was unable to trim for 70knots. Not a big deal as
the stick forces are light anyway. I originally had the trim tab
centered when the servo travel was centered, now it is biased.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 215 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | Re: Manual Trim Slop |
Paul Besing wrote:
>
>
> I'm having trouble understanding the manual trim slop that people are referring
to. The RV-6A that I am test flying right now has absolutely no slop. It
is the most precise control I could imagine. It resembles the control effectiveness
and tightness of the control stick on an RV. It literally takes 1/2 turn
or less to get it perfect. I have never hunted for the trim spot on this airplane.
>
I'm a bit perplexed by the reported sloppiness in the manual trim, too.
The manual trim on my RV-6 is just as Paul described, tight with no slop
whatsoever. I am wondering if the way I have the vernier adjusted on my
trim might be contributing to its "tightness". When I started flying my
plane, I was concerned about mistakenly grabbing the trim vernier and
either pulling or pushing it instead of the throttle......yep, kind of a
weird mistake to make, but, when you are testing a new plane, you sure
don't want any extreme trim excursions!
I tightened the lock on the trim cable so tightly it would be nearly
impossible to pull or push the knob, yet I could still rotate it. The
system worked so well I have just left it that way since the difference
between take-off trim and landing trim is only about 3-4 good twists of
the knob. In cruise flight, I can reliably adjust trim as fuel is burned
off by just tweaking the knob less than 1/8 turn.
Maybe if I had the lock loosened up all the way I would feel some slack
in the system.....
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Huft" <rv8tor(at)lazy8.net> |
Subject: | another chick leaves the nest |
listers--
I am very happy to report that after 3 yrs., 10 months building time, my RV8
(qb-sic) made her first flight yesterday. I flew her 1/2 hour then, and two
more today. She is everything I had hoped for, light, responsive, honest,
see the archives for better descriptions.
I would like to send a huge THANK YOU to all of you who have helped me
during this time with your tips, info, and incentive. This list is a great
thing! (yes, I am a contributor). There are many improvements on my airplane
that would not be there without all of you.
As a way to say thank you, I would like to offer server space on my website
for pictures of your airplanes (RVs). I have done this for my fellow Cessna
180/185 club members, and it has been great fun, and I have accumulated
close to 200 pictures of 180s and 185s. see
http://www.lazy8.net/membersbirds.htm for some examples. Anyway, I thought
we could do the same for RVs, and I am sure there are more RVrs on the web.
I will have to limit you to one picture per airplane, so send your favorite.
send your picture (640 pixels wide if you can) to webmaster(at)lazy8.net and
you will be famous. Tell me where you're based. I will organize them by
type.
Thanks again for your help.
John Huft, Pagosa Springs, CO
RV8 N184JH "Gypsy Tailwind" 2.5 hours
www.lazy8.net/rv8.html
p.s. I will post performance specs as I collect them.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Huft" <rv8tor(at)lazy8.net> |
Subject: | MT prop performance |
Today I took notes as I flew. I have an RV8 with O-360 (souped up a little)
and 3-blade MT prop. With prop set at 2450, I slowly reduced power until
rpms started to fall off. That happened at 10.5 inches of MP. I have the
Vision Microsystems instrument.
I guess my memory of other CS props I have flown agrees with this. My C185
does about the same thing, the analog MP instrument only goes down to 10
inches, so when I hit the bottom of this scale, I start watching the tach,
and tend to fly final at 2000 rpm, which is off the scale on the MP gauge.
About the same with other airplanes as well as I can remember.
I guess Kevin Horton's observation would be a good one, but I am afraid to
give her full power without tying the tail down, and haven't gotten around
to that.
John
RV8 Pagosa Springs, CO
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy Garrett
Subject: RV-List: MT prop performance
I would like to compare notes with other people who have an MT prop on their
RV.
I have an RV-6A QB with an O-360 and the 3-bladed MT prop. I now have about
30 hours on it. I have noticed that the prop seems to hold the RPM that I
have set using the prop governor much longer ... that is, with much less
manifold pressure ... than any other constant speed prop I have flown. This
is mostly apparent when reducing power on downwind or when really slowing
down for slow flight. I would say the manifold pressure is between 5 and 10
inches before the prop can no longer hold 2300 or 2400 RPM. So, I think the
blades are getting much flatter / going to higher pitch than other constant
speed props. One effect of this is that I get a LOT of drag from the prop.
I can really come down quick by reducing the power. This is not necessarily
bad, just different. So, I wanted to see whether this is standard behavior
for MT props.
Thanks,
Randy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
Kevin.....actually, messages posted to model-specific Matronics lists do not automatically
post to the RV list. You can post to any list or combination of lists
you like, but you have to send it to the ones you want it to show up on.
Gary
From: Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV4-List: Bleeding Brakes
Steve,
.................. Any message posted to one of the RV model specific
list also gets posted to the main RV List. Any responses to the copy
of the message that goes to the main RV List only go to the main RV
List - they don't go back to the RV model specific list, ...............
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
Listers,
Several weeks ago there was some discussion about listing the good DARs (and
otherwise). What ever happened to that? Did we make a list somewhere?
At issue: My hangar mate had his RV-6 inspected today. Total time on site:
10 minutes. Never looked under the cowl. Never looked into any inspection
holes. Never looked at the engine or prop logs. Couldn't care less if there
was a POH--never looked at it.
Simply showed up, looked at a few photos of my buddy building the plane, did
some paperwork, and gave a bill for $500.
Yep, $500 US.
Surely we can expect more bang for our buck!??!
jim
Tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
Listers,
My hangar renter has an RV-4 for sale.
Believe it has been flying for 7 years.
Light weight airplane, basic day/ night VFR.
O320 carburated, approximately 750 hrs airframe
240 hrs since topOH, 1800 bottom end, Runs and
flies wonderfully. For more info contact Dennis Martin,
at MFlyit(at)cs.com or 303-682-9032 Denver area
Silver and blue paint.....
By RV273sb in Co
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Manual Trim Slop |
Paul Besing wrote:
>
>
> I'm having trouble understanding the manual trim slop that people are referring
to. The RV-6A that I am test flying right now has absolutely no slop. It
is the most precise control I could imagine. It resembles the control effectiveness
and tightness of the control stick on an RV. It literally takes 1/2 turn
or less to get it perfect. I have never hunted for the trim spot on this airplane.
>
> The only thing I can think of is that Van changed the cable. There is nothing
more precise for trim as far as I'm concerned. (At least with the airplane
I am flying) The electric trim on my RV-6A that I sold was sloppy in that you
couldn't really "feel" what you kind of trim inputs you were putting in. It's
almost like you just guess how long to hold the switch down and see if that
works. With the manual, you just make ever so slight adjustments and you can
feel the airplane trim out.
>
> FWIW, just my personal observations. I'm not a manual trim purist by any means.
I wish the electric trim worked better for me. I just can't see how it can
with the precise control I have now. Does anyone know if Van changed the trim
cable in recent years?
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
>
Paul I well give this a try. I don't know how the manual trims are set up now so
can't
speak for any RV except my RV-6. When the trim cable comes forward to the front
of
the spar
then it had to make almost 180 degrees of turn to come back through the vertical
console.
It is in this bend that the cable would have a little slop as the cable would have
to
push against the outside of the housing or the inside of the housing depending
on
which
way you were trimming. As I said maybe in later models they had a better housing
to
cable fit
which would eliminate most the the slop in the bend.
Jerry Springer
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner(at)wans.net> |
Subject: | Re: DAR Listing ??? |
> Listers,
> Several weeks ago there was some discussion about listing the good DARs
(and
> otherwise). What ever happened to that? Did we make a list somewhere?
> At issue: My hangar mate had his RV-6 inspected today. Total time on
site:
> 10 minutes. Never looked under the cowl. Never looked into any inspection
> holes. Never looked at the engine or prop logs. Couldn't care less if
there
> was a POH--never looked at it.
Hello Jim,
Look at Doug Reeves Site under:
http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/dar.htm
It is somewhat of a start towards a DAR List!
> Simply showed up, looked at a few photos of my buddy building the plane,
did
> some paperwork, and gave a bill for $500.
> Yep, $500 US.
OUCH & OUCH, and what principles is this DAR living by ?????
Quick $$'s versus a time consuming evaluation towards safe flight?
> Surely we can expect more bang for our buck!??!
Let us all hope so!
Sincerely,
Konrad Werner
ABQ - NM
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
Gary,
Sorry, I have to respectfully disagree here. I am a member of Matt's
RV8-list and the RV-list. If I post a message to the RV8-list, I get
two copies - one that comes from the RV8-list, and a copy that comes
across on the main RV-list.
I just checked my Out Box - my message to Steve was sent to the
RV4-List only. The copy you replied too seems to have come from the
main RV-List.
Search the RV-List archives for the text " New Specific RV Lists Auto
Forwarded to RV-List" (don't include the quote marks. You'll find
Matt's description of how the system works. I believe it causes
confusion, because a lot of people on the main RV-List don't
understand that they need study the original message to see where it
originated, and send their response to the message to the correct
list. Otherwise, the original poster may not see the response. But,
Matt likes it the way it is, and these are his lists.
Kevin
>
>Kevin.....actually, messages posted to model-specific Matronics
>lists do not automatically post to the RV list. You can post to any
>list or combination of lists you like, but you have to send it to
>the ones you want it to show up on.
>
>Gary
>
>From: Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV4-List: Bleeding Brakes
>
>
>Steve,
>
>.................. Any message posted to one of the RV model specific
>list also gets posted to the main RV List. Any responses to the copy
>of the message that goes to the main RV List only go to the main RV
>List - they don't go back to the RV model specific list, ...............
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "george murphy" <george(at)atlantic.net> |
Am looking for wing kit and fusealge kit for RV-6A at any stage of constrution.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)attbi.com> |
Subject: | Re: DAR Listing ??? |
Jim,
This DAR is contributing nothing to flight safety. It's only a matter
of time before someone kills himself on an early flight of an aircraft
that this guy 'certified' as airworthy. His name needs to be reported,
to this list, the EAA & the FAA. Not necessarily in that order.
Ken Balch
RV-8 N118KB
Jim Norman wrote:
>
>Listers,
>Several weeks ago there was some discussion about listing the good DARs (and
>otherwise). What ever happened to that? Did we make a list somewhere?
>
>At issue: My hangar mate had his RV-6 inspected today. Total time on site:
>10 minutes. Never looked under the cowl. Never looked into any inspection
>holes. Never looked at the engine or prop logs. Couldn't care less if there
>was a POH--never looked at it.
>
>Simply showed up, looked at a few photos of my buddy building the plane, did
>some paperwork, and gave a bill for $500.
>
>Yep, $500 US.
>
>Surely we can expect more bang for our buck!??!
>
>jim
>Tampa
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | Re: DAR Listing ??? |
Jim Norman wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
> Several weeks ago there was some discussion about listing the good DARs (and
> otherwise). What ever happened to that? Did we make a list somewhere?
Yes indeed! :-)
Here is the link for the DAR list on Doug Reeves's site:
http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/dar.htm
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
Subject: | Re: DAR Listing ??? |
Not good, Jim. While we don't necessarily need an overly picky DAR, this is
on the extreme opposite. Guys like this could give Experimental Aviation a
bad name if one of the planes he "inspects" crashes. Personally, I'd like
my DAR to be thorough to keep my plane safe. Please, call the nearest FSDO
or MIDO before someone gets killed.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com>
Subject: RV-List: DAR Listing ???
>
> Listers,
> Several weeks ago there was some discussion about listing the good DARs
(and
> otherwise). What ever happened to that? Did we make a list somewhere?
>
> At issue: My hangar mate had his RV-6 inspected today. Total time on
site:
> 10 minutes. Never looked under the cowl. Never looked into any inspection
> holes. Never looked at the engine or prop logs. Couldn't care less if
there
> was a POH--never looked at it.
>
> Simply showed up, looked at a few photos of my buddy building the plane,
did
> some paperwork, and gave a bill for $500.
>
> Yep, $500 US.
>
> Surely we can expect more bang for our buck!??!
>
> jim
> Tampa
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Meketa" <acgm(at)gvtc.com> |
Subject: | Re: Manual Trim Slop |
Hello Yall
The sloppy manual trim was on an RV4 with a trim lever, not a vernier
control knob. On the side by side aircraft a center mounted vernier
control would work well. On the tandems it will not if both occupants
are to truely fly the airplane.
>I concur with Jerry, I had manual trim on my RV-4, found it to be too
>sloppy, converted to electric and now love it. Have the electric on my
RV->6 too. I will admit a bias towards electric trim because that's what I
fly at
>work, so to each his/her own, it's too bad you couldn't try both, though.
>> I'm having trouble understanding the manual trim slop that people are
>>referring to. The RV-6A that I am test flying right now has absolutely no
>>slop.
>> I'm a bit perplexed by the reported sloppiness in the manual trim, too.
>> The manual trim on my RV-6 is just as Paul described, tight with no slop
>> whatsoever.
George Meketa
RV8 175 hours, with electric trim
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
"Re: RV-List: posting" (Oct 16, 6:40pm)
rv7-list(at)matronics.com, rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv9-list(at)matronics.com,
rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: | Re: posting (To Forward or Not to Forward...) |
Kevin's right, except for the RV7, RV9, and RV10 Lists. The way its
been set up is when someone posts to the RV3, RV4, RV6, and RV8 Lists
a copy is automatically sent to the RV-List too. For some reason, the
7/9/10 lists weren't configured that way; probably because I added
them later and forgot that about the forwarding.
In anycase, for now I've added the forward feature the 7/9/10 Lists to keep
everything consistant.
However, I don't have a stong preference either way, actually. I can
see pros and cons to each. Would people prefer the not-forwarding
operation? Sounds like it they might...
So let's vote! Drop me an email at:
dralle(at)matronics.com
with a simple:
"Forward"
or
"Don't Forward"
in the Subject Line. I'll added up the votes in a couple of days and
announce the new method.
Matt Dralle
List Admin.
>--------------
>
>Gary,
>
>Sorry, I have to respectfully disagree here. I am a member of Matt's
>RV8-list and the RV-list. If I post a message to the RV8-list, I get
>two copies - one that comes from the RV8-list, and a copy that comes
>across on the main RV-list.
>
>I just checked my Out Box - my message to Steve was sent to the
>RV4-List only. The copy you replied too seems to have come from the
>main RV-List.
>
>Search the RV-List archives for the text " New Specific RV Lists Auto
>Forwarded to RV-List" (don't include the quote marks. You'll find
>Matt's description of how the system works. I believe it causes
>confusion, because a lot of people on the main RV-List don't
>understand that they need study the original message to see where it
>originated, and send their response to the message to the correct
>list. Otherwise, the original poster may not see the response. But,
>Matt likes it the way it is, and these are his lists.
>
>Kevin
>
>>
>>Kevin.....actually, messages posted to model-specific Matronics
>>lists do not automatically post to the RV list. You can post to any
>>list or combination of lists you like, but you have to send it to
>>the ones you want it to show up on.
>>
>>Gary
>>
>>From: Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com>
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV4-List: Bleeding Brakes
>>
>>
>>Steve,
>>
>>.................. Any message posted to one of the RV model specific
>>list also gets posted to the main RV List. Any responses to the copy
>>of the message that goes to the main RV List only go to the main RV
>>List - they don't go back to the RV model specific list, ...............
>
>
>--------------
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little
temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety.
Benjamin Franklin
Historical Review of Pennsylvania, 1759
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
Subject: | Re: 6 kit for sale/I am back |
Bobpaulo(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Hello Guys,
> Long time no talk to... I am almost mended. Dental work yet and a few
> scars but it appears that I will recover fully. I now feel that the crash has
> been one of, if not the best thing that has ever happened to me. Without
> taking up space to explain, let me say two words that should sum it all
> up-REPENTANCE AND OBEDIENCE. If any of you want to discuss that more, contact
> me off list.
> It looks as if the engine failure was a result of a dry gas tank. The
> fuel selector was switched to a tank that was dry.
> I have come across a 6 project that of course, I will not fly but l am
> going to sell.
> The project has very very good workmanship, on gear finishing kit completed,
> but lacks any air time, instruments/radios, and has a Mazda auto engine. I
> may just finish this bird up and replace the engine with a Lycoming-mid time
> or what ever I can find. Then again, I may sell as is. Any thoughts as to an
> asking price as is?
> Or would I be better off to finish it and then sell as a completed plane.
> Again, I have no plans to ever fly again. It's a long story how I came across
> this thing.
> Let me know what you guys think.
> Bob in Arkansas
>
Hi Bob,
I'm glad to hear that you are recovering well. We swapped emails shortly after
your accident about Bill Nolan's RV-6 project. Is that the one you now have for
sale? I had heard that it wouldn't be available until after the year's end.
I might be interested in the project. Can you send info on what's actually
installed in the plane & pictures, if possible? If your asking price is
reasonable, I might be able to come up this weekend to take a look.
If you will send me you're phone # I'll try to call you for more details.
Thanks,
Charlie
Jackson MS
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Keith and Deanie Southard" <d.southard(at)verizon.net> |
Has anyone added additinal fuel capacity other than the 8 1/2 gallon tip
tanks offered in Vans catalog?
How much additional capacity can the wing carry out on the tips? How is
this going to affect useful load? I know in my Bonanza, tip tank fuel was
"free" in that a gross weight increase was allowed equal to the amount of
fuel carried.
Keith Southard
RV9A
Empennage Done!
QB fuse and wings on the Boat
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> |
Subject: | Best web sites for used avionics? |
ebaymotors.com look in parts and accessories....aviation....lots of good
used avionics here, I've sold some myself on ebay.
Joe Hine (rv4flyer on ebay)
RV4 C-FYTQ
Guys...
Have any input for best sites for used avionics ??
Gyro's, Nav/GPS.. autopilots..
Al Karpinski
Jordan NY RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com> |
I saw a yellow RV7 a few weeks ago in Augusta GA (Boshear's/Skyfest 2002)
that *appeared* to have a fuel tank in the baggage compartment. I saw a fuel
cap on the right side with a capacity of 9 (or 10?) gallons etched on it. I
could not see whether there was a tank because it had a baggage compartment
cover.
Maybe the builder/owner is on this list.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Keith and Deanie
> Southard
> Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2002 10:45 PM
> To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Aux Fuel
>
>
>
>
> Has anyone added additinal fuel capacity other than the 8 1/2 gallon tip
> tanks offered in Vans catalog?
>
> How much additional capacity can the wing carry out on the tips? How is
> this going to affect useful load? I know in my Bonanza, tip tank fuel was
> "free" in that a gross weight increase was allowed equal to the amount of
> fuel carried.
>
> Keith Southard
> RV9A
> Empennage Done!
> QB fuse and wings on the Boat
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Subject: | Manual Trim Slop |
I thought I saw in one of the RVators a while back a recommendation and
instructions how to disable the push-pull function of the vernier. Once
modified, the only way to adjust is by twisting it. This isn't a
standard mod now for the manual trim?
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Buchanan
> Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2002 7:31 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Manual Trim Slop
>
>
>
> I'm a bit perplexed by the reported sloppiness in the manual
> trim, too. The manual trim on my RV-6 is just as Paul
> described, tight with no slop whatsoever. I am wondering if
> the way I have the vernier adjusted on my trim might be
> contributing to its "tightness". When I started flying my
> plane, I was concerned about mistakenly grabbing the trim
> vernier and either pulling or pushing it instead of the
> throttle......yep, kind of a weird mistake to make, but, when
> you are testing a new plane, you sure don't want any extreme
> trim excursions!
>
> I tightened the lock on the trim cable so tightly it would be
> nearly impossible to pull or push the knob, yet I could still
> rotate it. The system worked so well I have just left it that
> way since the difference between take-off trim and landing
> trim is only about 3-4 good twists of the knob. In cruise
> flight, I can reliably adjust trim as fuel is burned off by
> just tweaking the knob less than 1/8 turn.
>
> Maybe if I had the lock loosened up all the way I would feel
> some slack in the system.....
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Trim? Get some now, oh wait, this conversation is about a different kind of
trim. %$@#{)
Having had the manual trim, and now having the electric trim, I can't find
any difference???
I thought about this for awhile after reading the recent threads and at
first decided it was because I have the speed reducer wired in with a switch
that selects speeds, but then I realized that I never use the slow speed???
So I thought about it some more and decided its because I don't use the trim
to level the aircraft, I use it to set the airspeed, then use the throttle
to set vertical speed. And I am not as picky on airspeed as I try to be on
altitude. When I climb or descend I adjust throttle. Once in cruise the only
time I change trim is when I need to slow down for landings. Then I back off
the throttle more than normal for a descent and slowly add/bump trim to
maintain a roughly fixed descent rate. I keep this up until I am at the
desired new airspeed and then continue using the throttle to control
vertical speed. And I've done this with both types of tab control.
Lowering flaps doesn't seem to change this much, although it does change the
aircraft attitude a lot.
The reason I went to the electric was to try out the altitude hold device
designed by Cliff Caddy. I haven't had good results with that part of it
yet, but I have been way to busy at the College to really give it the time
needed to dial it in. I believe it needs some software mods, but have to
program the laptop to read it and store data in flight to see why its not
working. It goes ok for a few mild 30 ft oscillations then goes into higher
swings and finally kicks itself into a fixed 500 FPM descent. The adjuster
POTs don't seem to be able to fix this so I have more "experiments" to play
with and more reasons to go flying.
I used the Gretz remote cable to convert, and it works very well. The only
tid bit of advice is use the longest travel ray allen servo and don't center
the servo travel with the tab centered. Justify it to give you the most nose
up the Tab will go (tab trailing edge down). When the RV6s are full fuel and
low pax/bag it will be needed to get 70kts hands free flying. Any other load
will move cg aft making it easier to get the nose up. And they never need
much nose down/tab up to go fast.
When I am at full fuel solo(worst case fwd cg) I have the servo at max
retraction, tab trailing edge full down, LED indicator bar at the top, ASI
70kts; but at cruise, 160kts, the servo is three LED bars from the bottom,
and the tab is about neutral. The Ray Allen servos are 1.2" of travel, I
think,? and there are ten LED bars in the full range. This imbalance of
range could be fixed by changing the attach point of the cable on the tab to
a shorter lever arm, but I wasn't into that much work, and increased tab
senstivity, and the aircraft doesn't need it for any normal flight parameter
or loading condition.
This by the way seems to be normal for RV6s as indicated by Scott over at
Ray Allen, who is building one. I owe him a ride, if he's lurking, but
haven't had the time to get up much myself, other than a few fly ins.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Haywire" <haywire(at)telus.net> |
Subject: | RE: RV9-List: Aux Fuel |
> Has anyone added additinal fuel capacity other than the 8 1/2 gallon tip
> tanks offered in Vans catalog?
>
> How much additional capacity can the wing carry out on the tips? How is
> this going to affect useful load? I know in my Bonanza, tip tank fuel was
> "free" in that a gross weight increase was allowed equal to the amount of
> fuel carried.
>
> Keith Southard
Hi Kieth;
Take a look at my site http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm and
look under fuel systems. I have a 89 usg capacity.
S. Todd Bartrim
Turbo 13B rotary powered
RV-9endurance (FWF)
C-FSTB
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
Subject: | Re: RE: RV9-List: Aux Fuel |
Good God, Man! Your plane is going to have a ramp weight of 1900 pounds! I
hope you put in a "pilot relief" function in the airplane, cause I'm sure
the the tanks will outlast you!
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Haywire" <haywire(at)telus.net>
Subject: RV-List: RE: RV9-List: Aux Fuel
>
>
> > Has anyone added additinal fuel capacity other than the 8 1/2 gallon tip
> > tanks offered in Vans catalog?
> >
> > How much additional capacity can the wing carry out on the tips? How is
> > this going to affect useful load? I know in my Bonanza, tip tank fuel
was
> > "free" in that a gross weight increase was allowed equal to the amount
of
> > fuel carried.
> >
> > Keith Southard
>
> Hi Kieth;
> Take a look at my site
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm and
> look under fuel systems. I have a 89 usg capacity.
>
> S. Todd Bartrim
> Turbo 13B rotary powered
> RV-9endurance (FWF)
> C-FSTB
> http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: another chick leaves the nest |
John,
CONGRATULATIONS & WELL DONE !!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "John Huft" <rv8tor(at)lazy8.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "Rv-List(at)Matronics. Com"
>Subject: RV-List: another chick leaves the nest
>Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 17:40:04 -0600
>
>
>listers--
>
>I am very happy to report that after 3 yrs., 10 months building time, my
>RV8
>(qb-sic) made her first flight yesterday. I flew her 1/2 hour then, and two
>more today. She is everything I had hoped for, light, responsive, honest,
>see the archives for better descriptions.
>
>I would like to send a huge THANK YOU to all of you who have helped me
>
Surf the Web without missing calls!Get MSN Broadband.
http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/freeactivation.asp
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Larry Hawkins <lhawkins(at)giant.com> |
I agree that this guy needs to be reported to some authority, but I will not
trust my life to one inspector especially someone I don't even know. My
final inspection will be done by two different EAA technical advisors, one
is an RV expert and the other is a very well trusted A&P with IA.
Just my two cents worth.
Larry Hawkins, RV-4 Farmington, NM, N-345SL, (reserved) finishing.
-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Balch [mailto:kbalch1(at)attbi.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: DAR Listing ???
Jim,
This DAR is contributing nothing to flight safety. It's only a matter
of time before someone kills himself on an early flight of an aircraft
that this guy 'certified' as airworthy. His name needs to be reported,
to this list, the EAA & the FAA. Not necessarily in that order.
Ken Balch
RV-8 N118KB
Jim Norman wrote:
>
>Listers,
>Several weeks ago there was some discussion about listing the good DARs
(and
>otherwise). What ever happened to that? Did we make a list somewhere?
>
>At issue: My hangar mate had his RV-6 inspected today. Total time on site:
>10 minutes. Never looked under the cowl. Never looked into any inspection
>holes. Never looked at the engine or prop logs. Couldn't care less if
there
>was a POH--never looked at it.
>
>Simply showed up, looked at a few photos of my buddy building the plane,
did
>some paperwork, and gave a bill for $500.
>
>Yep, $500 US.
>
>Surely we can expect more bang for our buck!??!
>
>jim
>Tampa
>
>
RE: RV-List: DAR Listing ???
I agree that this guy needs to be reported to some authority, but I will not trust
my life to one inspector especially someone I don't even know. My final inspection
will be done by two different EAA technical advisors, one is an RV expert
and the other is a very well trusted AP with IA.
Just my two cents worth.
Larry Hawkins, RV-4 Farmington, NM, N-345SL, (reserved) finishing.
-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Balch [<A HREF"mailto:kbalch1(at)attbi.com">mailto:kbalch1(at)attbi.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: DAR Listing ???
-- RV-List message posted by: Ken Balch kbalch1(at)attbi.com
Jim,
This DAR is contributing nothing to flight safety. It's only a matter
of time before someone kills himself on an early flight of an aircraft
that this guy 'certified' as airworthy. His name needs to be reported,
to this list, the EAA the FAA. Not necessarily in that order.
Ken Balch
RV-8 N118KB
Jim Norman wrote:
-- RV-List message posted by: Jim Norman jnorman(at)InterMapSystems.com
Listers,
Several weeks ago there was some discussion about listing the good DARs (and
otherwise). What ever happened to that? Did we make a list somewhere?
At issue: My hangar mate had his RV-6 inspected today. Total time on site:
10 minutes. Never looked under the cowl. Never looked into any inspection
holes. Never looked at the engine or prop logs. Couldn't care less if there
was a POH--never looked at it.
Simply showed up, looked at a few photos of my buddy building the plane, did
some paperwork, and gave a bill for $500.
Yep, $500 US.
Surely we can expect more bang for our buck!??!
jim
Tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Hooker seat belt installation |
I have a Hooker 5 point harness in my -4. I don't recall what diameter
bolts are used to attach the harness. Regarding the crotch strap anchor, I
built a triangular tab from .063 steel (4130) with holes the three corners.
Two holes were used to attach the tab to the 2 (top) center spar bolts.
These are the same bolts that hold the bracket to which control tube is
attached. I can't recall whether or not I had to buy longer bolts to to
accept the tab.
Finally, I put a small joggle in the tab (1/4") to place the top of the tab
in the proper location to receive the crotch strap. So far it works well,
though it is one more thing to disassemble to get into the "stick well".
Good luck
Dean Pichon
RV-4
Morgantown, WV
>From: "Mark McGee" <riveter(at)ix.netcom.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Hooker seat belt installation
>Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 18:02:21 -0400
>
>
>I plan on installing Hooker harnesses in my RV-4 and need someone to tell
>me
>the mounting requirements. Specifically, what bolt diameter is used for the
>seat belt and harness attachments? And what type of mounting will the
>crotch
>strap need? I know some builders have just provided a slot for the strap to
>go through. If just a slot, how wide?
>
>Thanks,
>Mark McGee
>RV-4 fuselage, skinning
>
>
Surf the Web without missing calls! Get MSN Broadband.
http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/freeactivation.asp
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill" <n8wv(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | This guy needs a good BLASTING! |
You all have to read this article titled:
"Pretty Blue Angels Of Death
A dazzling air show, a bitter reminder of what hell we are causing
elsewhere, free balloons for the kids"
Catch the whole article at http://www.sfgate.com/columnists/morford and even
(should you choose to do so) write Mark Morford at mmorford(at)sfgate.com and
let him know what YOU might think of his column. Have fun....
-Bill
www.vondane.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <warrenkm(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | This guy needs a good BLASTING! |
Jeez, sounds like he needs a good choking with his love beads. Well, I sent
him a comment or two, just for fun!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner(at)wans.net> |
Subject: | DAR - Compensation? |
Hi Listers,
Here is another question pertaining to the independent DAR Services:
What was YOUR COST to hire a DAR for an inspection ???
(I am sure these # vary greatly, but yesterday's $500 will probably top that by
far, I hope?)
Sincerely,
Konrad Werner
ABQ - NM
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
Subject: | Re: DAR - Compensation? |
Don't know if he is still doing DAR work, but the guy who signed off my -6A
in Los Lunas, NM (near Albuquerque) was Manuel Lopez.
He was cooperative, friendly, liked RVs, and didn't ask for anything
stupid. I don't remember what I paid him which means it was probably
something reasonable.
I think you can contact him through Blue Sky aviation at Mid Valley Airport.
Andy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner(at)wans.net>
Subject: RV-List: DAR - Compensation?
>
> Hi Listers,
> Here is another question pertaining to the independent DAR Services:
>
> What was YOUR COST to hire a DAR for an inspection ???
>
> (I am sure these # vary greatly, but yesterday's $500 will probably top
that by far, I hope?)
>
> Sincerely,
> Konrad Werner
> ABQ - NM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "3 rotor" <rv8r300(at)attbi.com> |
I have an 18.4 gal baggage tank. I plumbed another valve into the existing
giving me the choice of 5 inputs. The tank is sheet metal and rivets and
proseal, just like we were taught :-) I have 11 hrs at high altitude
although I have only done 10 hrs non-stop so far. I almost flew
Portland/Camarillo/Portland before filling again. I built a 50 gallon
passenger tank but haven't flown it full yet. I am planning on attempting
Astoria OR/Kittyhawk non-stop next year. My hangarmate may attempt to beat
me using refueling stops, but I think I'll have to give him a headstart to
make it competitive. Maybe Todd B will join us for a Canadian show of
force. Kevin -6A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Knicholas2(at)aol.com |
Subject: | marker beacon & transponder antenna placement |
It sounds like a lot of us are at approximately the same stage of
construction. I want to put the marker beacon and transponder antennas on
the center line, forward of the spar and fairly close to each other. Is
there any RF/electronicn reason that this would be a problem?
Kim Nicholas
RV9A finishing......
Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV6-List: 664SB 3 Hour Report (LONG)! |
Gee Stein, it's a dirty shame that you don't like the way the RV flys after
all that hard work :-).
Do Not Archive
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, electrical stuff forever (it seems)
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Manual Trim Slop |
Interesting that you bring this up Paul, I have noticed that my manual trim
cable, not yet installed, seems to have about a half to three quarters of a
turn of slop (dead band) when I am playing with it on the bench. Does anyone
know if this is normal or should I see about getting another one from Van's
before I install it?
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, electrical stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com> |
Although I do understand all and agree with some of the points being made, I
think Larry's point is a very important one.
When the DAR arrives, **HOPEFULLY** the plane has in fact been inspected
many times over by several different people, at different points along the
construction.
The local DAR who did two RV6's in adjacent hangars over the last few
months, didn't spend half a day inspecting every possible place *BUT*, he
had been by the hangars several times during the construction (when all was
"out in the open") and didn't feel the need for such.
More importantly though, the most recent plane had had at least TWO full
checklist inspections directed by my very detail oriented building partner.
So when she stepped into it to do the first flight, I was sure she and the
plane would be OK *independent* of what the DAR found. By the way, after all
our inspections, he did find a (minor) loose bolt.
The point is at this stage in the process, the fee can be viewed in part as
a registration fee and a fee for inspection services rendered ... some of
which may be a bit lacking.
Believe me, I **want** the inpector to find anything that may not be right
about the plane. I just think that we could end up in the other extreme
where planes FAIL because overly rigid inspector of the type mentioned
elsewhere on this list.
Just another point of view ...
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry Hawkins
> Sent: Thursday, October 17, 2002 8:27 AM
> To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com'
> Subject: RE: RV-List: DAR Listing ???
>
>
> I agree that this guy needs to be reported to some authority, but
> I will not
> trust my life to one inspector especially someone I don't even know. My
> final inspection will be done by two different EAA technical advisors, one
> is an RV expert and the other is a very well trusted A&P with IA.
> Just my two cents worth.
> Larry Hawkins, RV-4 Farmington, NM, N-345SL, (reserved) finishing.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ken Balch [mailto:kbalch1(at)attbi.com]
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: DAR Listing ???
>
>
> Jim,
>
> This DAR is contributing nothing to flight safety. It's only a matter
> of time before someone kills himself on an early flight of an aircraft
> that this guy 'certified' as airworthy. His name needs to be reported,
> to this list, the EAA & the FAA. Not necessarily in that order.
>
> Ken Balch
> RV-8 N118KB
>
> Jim Norman wrote:
>
> >
> >Listers,
> >Several weeks ago there was some discussion about listing the good DARs
> (and
> >otherwise). What ever happened to that? Did we make a list somewhere?
> >
> >At issue: My hangar mate had his RV-6 inspected today. Total
> time on site:
> >10 minutes. Never looked under the cowl. Never looked into any
> inspection
> >holes. Never looked at the engine or prop logs. Couldn't care less if
> there
> >was a POH--never looked at it.
> >
> >Simply showed up, looked at a few photos of my buddy building the plane,
> did
> >some paperwork, and gave a bill for $500.
> >
> >Yep, $500 US.
> >
> >Surely we can expect more bang for our buck!??!
> >
> >jim
> >Tampa
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> RE: RV-List: DAR Listing ???
>
>
> I agree that this guy needs to be reported to some authority, but
> I will not trust my life to one inspector especially someone I
> don't even know. My final inspection will be done by two
> different EAA technical advisors, one is an RV expert and the
> other is a very well trusted AP with IA.
>
>
> Just my two cents worth.
>
> Larry Hawkins, RV-4 Farmington, NM, N-345SL, (reserved) finishing.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> From: Ken Balch [<A
> HREF"mailto:kbalch1(at)attbi.com">mailto:kbalch1(at)attbi.com]
>
>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: DAR Listing ???
>
>
> -- RV-List message posted by: Ken Balch kbalch1(at)attbi.com
>
>
> Jim,
>
>
> This DAR is contributing nothing to flight safety. It's only a matter
>
> of time before someone kills himself on an early flight of an aircraft
>
> that this guy 'certified' as airworthy. His name needs to be reported,
>
> to this list, the EAA the FAA. Not necessarily in that order.
>
>
> Ken Balch
>
> RV-8 N118KB
>
>
> Jim Norman wrote:
>
>
> -- RV-List message posted by: Jim Norman jnorman(at)InterMapSystems.com
>
>
> Listers,
>
> Several weeks ago there was some discussion about listing the
> good DARs (and
>
> otherwise). What ever happened to that? Did we make a list somewhere?
>
>
> At issue: My hangar mate had his RV-6 inspected today. Total time on site:
>
> 10 minutes. Never looked under the cowl. Never looked into any inspection
>
> holes. Never looked at the engine or prop logs. Couldn't care
> less if there
>
> was a POH--never looked at it.
>
>
> Simply showed up, looked at a few photos of my buddy building the
> plane, did
>
> some paperwork, and gave a bill for $500.
>
>
> Yep, $500 US.
>
>
> Surely we can expect more bang for our buck!??!
>
>
> jim
>
> Tampa
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Re: posting (To Forward or Not to Forward...) |
Forward!
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, electrical stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: posting (To Forward or Not to Forward...) |
From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
Forward
6:40pm) dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) writes:
>
>
> Kevin's right, except for the RV7, RV9, and RV10 Lists. The way its
>
> been set up is when someone posts to the RV3, RV4, RV6, and RV8
> Lists
> a copy is automatically sent to the RV-List too. For some reason,
> the
> 7/9/10 lists weren't configured that way; probably because I added
> them later and forgot that about the forwarding.
>
> In anycase, for now I've added the forward feature the 7/9/10 Lists
> to keep
> everything consistant.
>
> However, I don't have a stong preference either way, actually. I
> can
> see pros and cons to each. Would people prefer the not-forwarding
> operation? Sounds like it they might...
>
> So let's vote! Drop me an email at:
>
> dralle(at)matronics.com
>
> with a simple:
>
> "Forward"
> or
> "Don't Forward"
>
> in the Subject Line. I'll added up the votes in a couple of days
> and
> announce the new method.
>
>
> Matt Dralle
> List Admin.
>
>
> >--------------
> >
> >Gary,
> >
> >Sorry, I have to respectfully disagree here. I am a member of
> Matt's
> >RV8-list and the RV-list. If I post a message to the RV8-list, I
> get
> >two copies - one that comes from the RV8-list, and a copy that
> comes
> >across on the main RV-list.
> >
> >I just checked my Out Box - my message to Steve was sent to the
> >RV4-List only. The copy you replied too seems to have come from
> the
> >main RV-List.
> >
> >Search the RV-List archives for the text " New Specific RV Lists
> Auto
> >Forwarded to RV-List" (don't include the quote marks. You'll find
>
> >Matt's description of how the system works. I believe it causes
> >confusion, because a lot of people on the main RV-List don't
> >understand that they need study the original message to see where
> it
> >originated, and send their response to the message to the correct
> >list. Otherwise, the original poster may not see the response.
> But,
> >Matt likes it the way it is, and these are his lists.
> >
> >Kevin
> >
> >>
> >>Kevin.....actually, messages posted to model-specific Matronics
> >>lists do not automatically post to the RV list. You can post to
> any
> >>list or combination of lists you like, but you have to send it to
> >>the ones you want it to show up on.
> >>
> >>Gary
> >>
> >>From: Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com>
> >>Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV4-List: Bleeding Brakes
> >>
>
> >>
> >>Steve,
> >>
> >>.................. Any message posted to one of the RV model
> specific
> >>list also gets posted to the main RV List. Any responses to the
> copy
> >>of the message that goes to the main RV List only go to the main
> RV
> >>List - they don't go back to the RV model specific list,
> ...............
> >
> >
> >--------------
>
>
> --
>
>
> Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
> 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
> http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
>
> They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little
> temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety.
>
> Benjamin Franklin
> Historical Review of Pennsylvania, 1759
>
>
>
>
> messages.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Williams" <frate.dawg(at)attglobal.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV9-List: parking brake |
Mark: I don't have time to re-invent the wheel (or more appropriately, the
wheel brake). Having instructed some 800 hrs in Cherokees, there are two
things I'm taking from Piper---and one is the handy little "parking" brake
system which fits under the panel, easily accessible by either pilot, yet
out of the way. When you pull it, it simply squeezes a piston-type actuator
which ports pressure equally or evenly to both main brakes (a tiny bit of
additional brake line plumbing and a tee-fitting is all that is required).
"Parking" is in quotes because most pilots use this brake to stop or quickly
slow the airplane straight ahead on the runway after landing, then switch to
the toe brakes for turn-off and taxi. They work great, either as landing
brakes (very, very smooth), or as parking brakes (very simple and elegant).
But a latching pawl-type lock and release arrangement with a pull-out
knob/cable for release, affixed to the toe brakes when they are both fully
depressed, would be lighter and do the same thing for use as parking
brakes. When you design it and install it, take pictures for the rest of
us. Regards, John Williams
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Schrimmer" <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: RV9-List: parking brake
> --> RV9-List message posted by: Mark Schrimmer
>
> Are most of you installing a parking brake? I was surpised to learn the
> factory 9A doesn't have one.
>
> Mark Schrimmer
> RV-9A
> Wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | This guy needs a good BLASTING! |
From: | Scott.Fink(at)microchip.com |
10/17/2002 02:00:56 PM,
Serialize complete at 10/17/2002 02:00:56 PM
Or take his purse away and smack him with it.
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
10/17/2002 07:18 AM
Please respond to rv-list
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RE: RV-List: This guy needs a good BLASTING!
Jeez, sounds like he needs a good choking with his love beads. Well, I
sent
him a comment or two, just for fun!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Russ Werner" <russ(at)maui.net> |
Subject: | Re: Rocket Insurance |
Tom, did the falcon quote have the $110K hull on it? Any other significant
differences between the two coverage? This is actually great news for
Rocket builders.
Russ
HRII
> Avemco - $5719
> Falcon - $2500
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Russ Werner" <russ(at)maui.net> |
Subject: | Re: DAR Listing ??? |
I'm with you on this one James. Other than the large fee, I'd say the easy
pass was a good deal for the owner. You can get anyone to inspect it for
flaws or airworthiness issues, but why complain about an easy inspection.
My opinion only, I don't expect all 1500 of you to agree! Be careful what
you wish for -- it may come true!
Russ
> When the DAR arrives, **HOPEFULLY** the plane has in fact been inspected
> many times over by several different people, at different points along the
> construction.
> The point is at this stage in the process, the fee can be viewed in part
as
> a registration fee and a fee for inspection services rendered ... some of
> which may be a bit lacking.
>
> Believe me, I **want** the inpector to find anything that may not be right
> about the plane. I just think that we could end up in the other extreme
> where planes FAIL because overly rigid inspector of the type mentioned
> elsewhere on this list.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Manual Trim Slop |
The manual trim cable in my RV-8 has a *very* small amount of dead band
(slop), I'm not even sure I could quantify it in terms of % of a turn, it
would be something line a 64th of a turn. To lend one more opinion to the
debate, I prefer manual trim due to the superior "feel" it provides. I had
this point of view going into my RV-8 project based on my experience with
other planes. After finishing and flying my plane I'm still glad I went this
route.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 271 hrs
>
> Interesting that you bring this up Paul, I have noticed that my manual
trim
> cable, not yet installed, seems to have about a half to three quarters of
a
> turn of slop (dead band) when I am playing with it on the bench. Does
anyone
> know if this is normal or should I see about getting another one from
Van's
> before I install it?
>
> Harry Crosby
> Pleasanton, California
> RV-6, electrical stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Williams" <frate.dawg(at)attglobal.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV9-List: Aux Fuel |
Keith: Good question. There was a chap on about ten days ago who is doing
a Mazda rotary in an RV-9, and who alluded to having added extra fuel. This
so piqued my interest that I asked him to share how he did it with me.
Haven't heard from him since! Musta' been something I said!
I don't have my wing kit yet, nor the large drawings, but it sure looks to
me like you could switch the position of the tank outboard end-ribs with the
adjacent wing nose ribs, and move the filler cap outboard to the next
chamber, and pick up about two gallons (estimated) capacity on each side, or
if you go two ribs out and use the whole of the next chamber, maybe as much
as 3 1/2 gallons per side. Since this wing is stressed for utility
category, it should have no trouble handling the scant extra weight. The
weight is located right along the normal fuel CG index line, so no problems
there, either. It will detract from your useful load a bit (people and
baggage), but since when do you fly around with 50 lbs of baggage each?
From an aerodynamic standpoint, engineers say that extra fuel carried as far
outboard as possible is beneficial to the wing spar with regard to the
bending moments and lessens stress on the spar.
Regards, John Williams
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith and Deanie Southard" <d.southard(at)verizon.net>
Subject: RV9-List: Aux Fuel
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "Keith and Deanie Southard"
>
> Has anyone added additinal fuel capacity other than the 8 1/2 gallon tip
> tanks offered in Vans catalog?
>
> How much additional capacity can the wing carry out on the tips? How is
> this going to affect useful load? I know in my Bonanza, tip tank fuel was
> "free" in that a gross weight increase was allowed equal to the amount of
> fuel carried.
>
> Keith Southard
> RV9A
> Empennage Done!
> QB fuse and wings on the Boat
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV9-List: Aux Fuel |
I am developing an external "drop tank/cargo pod" that would have only about
a 2 lb penalty (attach points and plumbing) when the tank is not attached.
The tank will have a capacity of approx. 18 gal and will attach directly
under the belly onto the front and rear spar. A couple of pins will make for
easy attach detach. The point is when you need extra fuel you can put the
tank on, When you need extra baggage capacity you can put the baggage pod on.
when you don't need either you can remove them and they is literally no
weight or drag penalty. This tank/pod will fit RV-6, RV-6A, RV-7, RV-7A,
RV-8, RV-8A. This thing looks neat (WW II style) and it is right on the
center of gravity.
Scott Morrow
RV-6A 90%
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Steve Eberhart <newtech(at)newtech.com> |
Subject: | Fuel pickup tube safetywire |
I am working on fuel tanks on my RV-7. In installing the fuel pickup
tube shouldn't the blue coupling nut be safety wired? Seems like an a
lot of things we safety wired on military aircraft aren't safety wired
on Experimental aircraft, or at least Van's aircraft.
Didn't find anything in the archives.
Steve Eberhart
RV-7, working on fuel tanks
Old Air Force instrument systems technician
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net> |
Subject: | Re: Rocket Insurance |
By the way, that EAA "program" is not exclusive to Falcon Agency, any
insurance agent has that available as long as you're a current EAA member.
John "JT" Helms
----- Original Message -----
From: "Russ Werner" <russ(at)maui.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rocket Insurance
Tom, did the falcon quote have the $110K hull on it? Any other significant
differences between the two coverage? This is actually great news for
Rocket builders.
Russ
HRII
> Avemco - $5719
> Falcon - $2500
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo(at)verizon.net> |
Subject: | Re: Rocket Insurance |
Once I see the paperwork, I will post the differences bewteen the Avemco and
Falcon policies. But yes, if I heard him correctly, the quote was for
110,000. The Falcon's medical coverage was better and the deductables were
smaller. So far, things are looking good. Part of the quote was because I
am a EAA member but don't know much it is.
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "Russ Werner" <russ(at)maui.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rocket Insurance
>
> Tom, did the falcon quote have the $110K hull on it? Any other
significant
> differences between the two coverage? This is actually great news for
> Rocket builders.
>
> Russ
> HRII
>
> > Avemco - $5719
> > Falcon - $2500
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "guy" <gvotuc(at)direcway.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV9-List: Aux Fuel link |
I believe this is the chap you were talking about... Most of this plane is GAS... http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
Guy
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Williams" <frate.dawg(at)attglobal.net>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Aux Fuel
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "John Williams"
>
> Keith: Good question. There was a chap on about ten days ago who is doing
> a Mazda rotary in an RV-9, and who alluded to having added extra fuel. This
> so piqued my interest that I asked him to share how he did it with me.
> Haven't heard from him since! Musta' been something I said!
>
> I don't have my wing kit yet, nor the large drawings, but it sure looks to
> me like you could switch the position of the tank outboard end-ribs with the
> adjacent wing nose ribs, and move the filler cap outboard to the next
> chamber, and pick up about two gallons (estimated) capacity on each side, or
> if you go two ribs out and use the whole of the next chamber, maybe as much
> as 3 1/2 gallons per side. Since this wing is stressed for utility
> category, it should have no trouble handling the scant extra weight. The
> weight is located right along the normal fuel CG index line, so no problems
> there, either. It will detract from your useful load a bit (people and
> baggage), but since when do you fly around with 50 lbs of baggage each?
>
> From an aerodynamic standpoint, engineers say that extra fuel carried as far
> outboard as possible is beneficial to the wing spar with regard to the
> bending moments and lessens stress on the spar.
> Regards, John Williams
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Keith and Deanie Southard" <d.southard(at)verizon.net>
> To:
> Subject: RV9-List: Aux Fuel
>
>
> > --> RV9-List message posted by: "Keith and Deanie Southard"
>
> >
> > Has anyone added additinal fuel capacity other than the 8 1/2 gallon tip
> > tanks offered in Vans catalog?
> >
> > How much additional capacity can the wing carry out on the tips? How is
> > this going to affect useful load? I know in my Bonanza, tip tank fuel was
> > "free" in that a gross weight increase was allowed equal to the amount of
> > fuel carried.
> >
> > Keith Southard
> > RV9A
> > Empennage Done!
> > QB fuse and wings on the Boat
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: marker beacon & transponder antenna placement |
October 11, 2002 - October 17, 2002
RV-Archive.digest.vol-np