RV-Archive.digest.vol-nt
November 02, 2002 - November 11, 2002
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Norman
| Subject: | Airport Problems |
Gents...
This is not a "hangar space issue". There are lots of brand new
hangars. No
waiting list at all. In fact, there are only 2 planes in my hangar
building
which has 10 hangars. I have no neighbors. There are 40 new hangars
being
built, to open next month. There is a glut of hangars here!
SO, lets not confuse the issue... this is an issue of the FBO being
afraid
of lawsuits.
Jim
Tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | slider rollbar squareness |
My rollbar for the slider canopy on my RV9a sort of stood on 'tippy
toes'. There were a lot of globby welds on this weldment piece, that
hung out all over. It was not flat on the base, at the start.
I ground down the welds and both the left and right sat nice and flat on
the fuselage.
However, when checking for square to the longerons, both sides were out
of square, by different degrees.
I played with shims and clamps all afternoon. I can get one side
perfect, but the other side needs excessive pressure to get it perfect.
I can grab the top of the rollbar and with that 2 foot 'lever', I can
bring the out of square side down, but I can see the other side flexing,
when I do.
QUESTION: Is pretty close OK here or do you want it right on, so the
canopy frame comes up nice?
Barry Pote RV9a
This must have been a 'Monday' rollbar!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PILOT8127(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RE: another one heads skyward |
Hey RV-listers,
Today at 2:45PM Indiana time. RV6A N6PU Ser.#25038 FLEW for the FIRST time!
Sans paint, she was well behaved and mild-mannered too.
Everything in the green. Flew hands off in the light chop. Handled like a
Cadillac compared to my RV3A with the same 160HP under the cowl.
I was the 'test-pilot' for my hangar partner Ken Brewer (who is not on
the RV-list) He has 5 years of part/time effort to date and only the paint
is left to do.
160HP D2J
Felix prop 68X72
EWt. 1055lbs.
more later,
Gary (aka AJ)
INDY RVs flyout-director
(you only need one seat)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Airport Problems |
Jim,
This doesn't make sense. You have an EAA chapter, with their own
building, at Vandenberg. What do they say?
Finn
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Norman
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Airport Problems
>
>
>OK Listers, here's a new problem...
>
>I'm putting my wings on my plane in a hanger that I rent. I have been based
>at this airport for almost 8 years (I have an Archer).
>
>The airport manager (without ANY warnings) shows up yesterday with eviction
>papers giving me 5 days to clean out the hangar. Why? Because we are
>"building an airplane" at the airport and this is not allowed. Of course,
>my plane was "built" at home, painted in a shop, and transported to the
>airport ready to bolt together. Its done except for wings, ailerons, and
>flaps.
>
>Also, of course, there are a dozen or more experimentals at this airport.
>Some, being built from scratch at the airport.
>
>Bottom line, after begging (and other distasteful measures) I was allowed to
>keep the hangar, but only for a "completed" airplane. They gave me 24 hours
>to get rid of the plane "parts". I have complied with this (what a pain in
>the butt). They even demanded that a work bench and all tools be removed.
>
>Their issue "insurance". "What happens if your plane falls on you and you
>get crushed and hold us liable?" Of course, of the $419 a month I pay for a
>hangar, $23.00 goes to "insurance" (its a line item). My plane is insured
>with builder's insurance (John Helms, are you reading this?). (I think
>there may be some more underlying issues, but I can't put my finger on them
>yet).
>
>Questions: 1) Has anybody heard of this before? 2) When is the plane a
>plane? When it has wings but not flaps? Wings and flaps but not ailerons?
>Fuselage and wings, but no avionics? They are quoting a clause that says
>"no airplane repairs shall be undertaken in areas not designated for such
>repairs, except for routine maintenance".
>
>Need some advice here... don't want to set a precedence for this airport
>that may spread.
>
>jim
>Tampa
>Vandenberg Airport VDF (near Sun-N-Fun, so don't come here on your way to
>Sun-n-Fun).
>
>
---------------------------------------------
1st month Free!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave von Linsowe" <davevon(at)tir.com> |
Hi guys,
I'm not sure this is proper to advertise something like this here...
I'm going to try something different on my RV-6 so I've got my Hartzell C/S
prop up for sale cheap.
About 50 hours since overhaul, 68" diameter and it looks perfect.
Contact me direct.
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan&Patty Krueger <pndkrueg(at)infi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A Wing attachment question |
Pete:
I just put my wings on a few months ago. Yes you have to support the fuselage when
you take out the temporary spar. I supported the fuselage by hanging the fuselage
off of an
engine hoist - I attached the hoist to the engine mount (NOT THE ENGINE) and just
took the weight off of the main mounts. I also made four drift pins to go
thru the splice
plates and spar. Unbolted one temporary spar - removed - slid in wing - held with
drift pins - replaced with the large precision bolts - than repeated on other
side. All
this with the fuselage being hung from the engine hoist. This process took less
than one hour. Sixteen hours later all the bolts were installed and torqued.
Hope this helps.
Dan Krueger
RV-6A Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Technical education |
To get an A&P via building your own aircraft can be done but is increasingly
diffucult. Does your aircraft have any fabric, wood, turbine, composite
skills. Will you rebuild the engine? You may be able to work through the FSDO
and gain the experience to accomplish the A&P without going to school. The
schooling is approx 1800 hours of class time covering all aspects of aircraft
maintenence. Obviously, a new A&P has much yet to learn and most tend to
specialize in one or more areas. Technically, the A&P allows the holder to
repair anything from the Cub to the Space Shuttle but that would be a stretch
for 1800 class hors much less building one aluminum airplane. Good luck. Do
Not Archive. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Francis Malczynski" <ebbfmm(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Where to Buy Paint |
Ted, I bought mine at NAPA. They sell Martin Senour brand finishes. I use
their polyurethane single stage paint after observing how well it has stood
the test of time of my friends RV6. 4 years and counting and hard as nails.
They also have a very nice color chart with many many colors to choose from.
Give it a shot.
Fran Malczynski
RV6 - N594EF (test flying)
Olcott, NY
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ted Lumpkin
Subject: RV-List: Where to Buy Paint
I know this seems like a silly question, but where can I buy paint for
finishing my RV-4. I was going to buy Randolph paints from Aircraft Spruce,
but their color choice is way too limited. I have looked at the Dupont and
Sherwin Williams websites but they don't seem to have simple color charts.
I know every color under the sun is available, but I was looking to buy a
standard color from a paint color chart?
Where have you guys purchased your paint?
Ted
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Curt Hoffman" <choffman9(at)cinci.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Builders Bench plans |
There are a lot of bench designs. I also wanted re-configurable to allow me
to move my bench around as the project changed, and in case I moved again
(twice in the course of building already).
I just use stable metal saw horses- around 6 as I recall, with square metal
tubing designed to be used in buildings to support conduit and piping
running lengthwise along the "bench" and across the saw horses. I used three
of these- one on each end of the saw horses and one in the middle. Then I
put 3 foot 2" X 4"s across the metal tubing about every 20" and then
covered all that with an interior high grade flat door. I used two doors end
to end to give me a total bench of around 14 feet X 3 feet.
Seems like a lot but it is strong, flat, and I can move it in a heart beat.
As the project messes up the doors, as the drilling, especially the control
surfaces will, all I have to do is swap a door.
Curt Hoffman
RV-9A wings
1968 Mustang 302 convertible
Piper Cherokee N5320W
----- Original Message -----
From: "Will & Lynda Allen" <linenwool(at)attbi.com>
Subject: RV-List: Builders Bench plans
>
> I heard there are some plans for a re-configurable building bench out
there
> somewhere. Can someone point me in the right direction? I need more work
> bench space in my garage already. (sorry wife, you'll have to park outside
> now, must build airplane!) :)
>
> Thanks,
>
> Will Allen
> RV8 emp.
> North Bend, WA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gabe and Marisol Ferrer" <ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Self Locking Castle Nuts |
A very experienced builder (RV's, F1's, S51's, Velocity's, etc) recommended
that I use self locking castle nuts on all control linkages.
This will provide redundancy on these very flight critical linkages.
Has anyone used them in their RV's?
Gabe A Ferrer (RV6, SE Florida, N2GX, getting close to first flight)
ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net
Cell: 561 758 8894
Night or FAX: 561 622 0960
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Emmanuelle Richard <frenchflyer21(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Technical education |
You cannot use experience on experimental airplanes
towards getting your A&P, only on planes with a
standard certificate. You need to go to an A&P school
for 2 years or establish 30 months mini of full time
practical experience in the duties of and A&P. Then
you have to take the exams. If you have the time, go
to evening classes at a community college. A friend
of mine did it and learnt a lot of good stuff.
HotJobs - Search new jobs daily now
http://hotjobs.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gabe and Marisol Ferrer" <ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Temperature Stickers |
Please. Anyone know where to purchase "temperature stickers" from?
They typically have several temperature "windows" which change color as you
reach their temperature.
I plan to place them at several key locations in the engine compartment.
I would prefer not to use an electronic temperature data system.
Thanks.
Gabe A Ferrer (RV6, SE Florida, N2GX, getting close to first flight)
ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net
Cell: 561 758 8894
Night or FAX: 561 622 0960
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Self Locking Castle Nuts |
Try here:
http://www.wicksaircraft.com/gotopage.php?page=85
MS17825 self locking castellated nut
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
RV6 N296JC(res)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gabe and Marisol Ferrer" <ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RV-List: Self Locking Castle Nuts
>
> A very experienced builder (RV's, F1's, S51's, Velocity's, etc)
recommended
> that I use self locking castle nuts on all control linkages.
>
> This will provide redundancy on these very flight critical linkages.
>
> Has anyone used them in their RV's?
>
> Gabe A Ferrer (RV6, SE Florida, N2GX, getting close to first flight)
> ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net
> Cell: 561 758 8894
> Night or FAX: 561 622 0960
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
| Subject: | airport problems (idiots) |
Sounds like you have a manager who is scared to death to allow anything around
the airport that could be construed as a risk.......or a freedom. Why the hell
should the airport be liable if your airplane falls on you in the hangar? Didn't
he even talk to you before serving the "papers?"
I'd say get as many guys together as you can, especially the homebuilt owners,
and confront the manager in his office as a group. Tell him you are all pulling
out if he isn't more reasonable. Tell him if your insurance payments are not
providing you with insurance, then you will all sue for a refund of all you
have paid for it. Your hangar rent is more than my house payment, and for that
you get harassed. I'd shop for another airport, as well.
Another point is, that an airplane under construction is not being "repaired".
Maybe that clause is in there to force people to use the maintenance facilities
on the airport. But the FBO/ mechanic cannot build your airplane for you.
That clause just doesn't apply here. Is there a clause that says that building
an airplane at that airport is "not allowed", or is this just an invalid interpretation
by this clown?
This is the kind of crap that is ruining many areas of our lives. Why should we
let insurance companies run our lives? They are like lawyers........they supposedly
provide you with a service. But we have let them get to the point where
they feel they can dictate any terms they want. Then, if nothing happens,
they win, and you pay. If something does happen, you pay, they pay (sometimes),
and then they raise your rates and restrict you even more, and they win again.
You lose.
Our society has wanted all the benefits without any risks for too long. We have
created a monster. How fast would things change if 80% of us canceled our insurance
next week?
Jim, I sure hope this works out for you. It is a damn shame. Get together and
put some pressure on these guys, the city commission, etc. Often times people
who act like this are quick to back down when people fight back.
Gary
From: "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com>
Subject: RV-List: Airport Problems
OK Listers, here's a new problem...
I'm putting my wings on my plane in a hanger that I rent. I have been based
at this airport for almost 8 years (I have an Archer).
The airport manager (without ANY warnings) shows up yesterday with eviction
papers giving me 5 days to clean out the hangar. Why? Because we are
"building an airplane" at the airport and this is not allowed. Of course,
my plane was "built" at home, painted in a shop, and transported to the
airport ready to bolt together. Its done except for wings, ailerons, and
flaps.
Also, of course, there are a dozen or more experimentals at this airport.
Some, being built from scratch at the airport.
Bottom line, after begging (and other distasteful measures) I was allowed to
keep the hangar, but only for a "completed" airplane. They gave me 24 hours
to get rid of the plane "parts". I have complied with this (what a pain in
the butt). They even demanded that a work bench and all tools be removed.
Their issue "insurance". "What happens if your plane falls on you and you
get crushed and hold us liable?" Of course, of the $419 a month I pay for a
hangar, $23.00 goes to "insurance" (its a line item). My plane is insured
with builder's insurance (John Helms, are you reading this?). (I think
there may be some more underlying issues, but I can't put my finger on them
yet).
Questions: 1) Has anybody heard of this before? 2) When is the plane a
plane? When it has wings but not flaps? Wings and flaps but not ailerons?
Fuselage and wings, but no avionics? They are quoting a clause that says
"no airplane repairs shall be undertaken in areas not designated for such
repairs, except for routine maintenance".
Need some advice here... don't want to set a precedence for this airport
that may spread.
jim
Tampa
Vandenberg Airport VDF (near Sun-N-Fun, so don't come here on your way to
Sun-n-Fun).
---
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
| Subject: | airport problems |
Gents...
This is not a "hangar space issue". There are lots of brand new hangars. No
waiting list at all. In fact, there are only 2 planes in my hangar building
which has 10 hangars. I have no neighbors. There are 40 new hangars being
built, to open next month. There is a glut of hangars here!
SO, lets not confuse the issue... this is an issue of the FBO being afraid
of lawsuits.
Jim
Tampa
Then threaten him with one.
Gary
---
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Temperature Stickers |
In a message dated 11/3/2002 8:52:22 AM Pacific Standard Time,
ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net writes:
> Please. Anyone know where to purchase "temperature stickers" from?
>
> They typically have several temperature "windows" which change color as you
> reach their temperature.
>
> I plan to place them at several key locations in the engine compartment.
>
> I would prefer not to use an electronic temperature data system.
>
I use these on critical engine and baffle areas. They are available in any
welding supplies shop, from McMaster-Carr and probably MSC. Tempil makes
these.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 572hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Self Locking Castle Nuts |
In a message dated 11/3/2002 8:45:33 AM Pacific Standard Time,
ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net writes:
> A very experienced builder (RV's, F1's, S51's, Velocity's, etc) recommended
> that I use self locking castle nuts on all control linkages.
>
> This will provide redundancy on these very flight critical linkages.
>
> Has anyone used them in their RV's?
Your friend is absolutely right and I use them on all of the horizontal
control surface bolts.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 575hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Self Locking Castle Nuts, attn G. A. Ferrer |
Funny that this came up.- Just this May I had the final inspection done on
my RV6-A and the Canadian MDRA ( Minister's Designated, Recreational A/C)
inspector snagged all bolts in the control systems securing the bell-cranks,
control tubes, etc, saying that they should be drilled-shank with cottered
nuts. he said that they have seen cases of the AN365 nylok nuts falling
off.!?- The fact that I built to Van's design didn't cut it. My compromise
was OK'd. I replaced all the nyloks with MS21042 metal stop-nuts, which I
had plenty of, as those are what I used firewall-forward. As these are
shorter than the AN365's, more bolt thread is exposed which I promptly
coated with West epoxy. Those nuts are going nowhere!!
While I'm about it, how many RV6 (6A) builders have had the deflections of
the rudder cables snagged by inspectors? They contravene AC 43.13-XX which
says that control cables going through fairleads shall have deflection
angles no greater than 3 degrees!-Well, I had measured these angles through
the F605 and F624 bulkheads prior to my fuselage pre-closure inspection:
F605= 6.15 degrees and F624= 4.21 degrees! So I wrote to Van giving him this
info and asked him to write me a letter saying --no problem with their
experience to date, etc,etc, which I received. Just as well because it was
snagged by my inspector.Giving him a copy of Van's letter solved the snag.
(I understand that Van was "not amused")-----Cheers! Henry
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Airport Problems |
In a message dated 11/2/02 1:18:38 PM Pacific Standard Time,
jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com writes:
<< SO, lets not confuse the issue... this is an issue of the FBO being afraid
of lawsuits. >>
Jim: Seems like all the more reason you might want to talk to the manager
about adding them to your insurance as additional insured. FWIW and without
knowing who you are covered by, you might want to talk to J.T. Helms at
Nationair. He is very familiar with that.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, electrical stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Self Locking Castle Nuts, attn G. A. Ferrer |
You are probably comfortable with your solution. The FAA several years ago
issued an AD on Cessna 150 carb controls that used self locking nuts. Seemed
they were falling off from vibration and rotation. These nuts probably had
been re-used more than once. So the FAA required drilled bolts and cotter
keys on the carb controls of all Cessna 150s.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Self Locking Castle Nuts, attn G. A. Ferrer
<elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
>
> Funny that this came up.- Just this May I had the final inspection done on
> my RV6-A and the Canadian MDRA ( Minister's Designated, Recreational A/C)
> inspector snagged all bolts in the control systems securing the
bell-cranks,
> control tubes, etc, saying that they should be drilled-shank with cottered
> nuts. he said that they have seen cases of the AN365 nylok nuts falling
> off.!?- The fact that I built to Van's design didn't cut it. My compromise
> was OK'd. I replaced all the nyloks with MS21042 metal stop-nuts, which I
> had plenty of, as those are what I used firewall-forward. As these are
> shorter than the AN365's, more bolt thread is exposed which I promptly
> coated with West epoxy. Those nuts are going nowhere!!
>
> While I'm about it, how many RV6 (6A) builders have had the deflections of
> the rudder cables snagged by inspectors? They contravene AC 43.13-XX which
> says that control cables going through fairleads shall have deflection
> angles no greater than 3 degrees!-Well, I had measured these angles
through
> the F605 and F624 bulkheads prior to my fuselage pre-closure inspection:
> F605= 6.15 degrees and F624= 4.21 degrees! So I wrote to Van giving him
this
> info and asked him to write me a letter saying --no problem with their
> experience to date, etc,etc, which I received. Just as well because it was
> snagged by my inspector.Giving him a copy of Van's letter solved the
snag.
> (I understand that Van was "not amused")-----Cheers! Henry
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Self Locking Castle Nuts |
I assume you are pairing the castle nuts with the drilled bolt, right?
If not, how is the nuts you are refering to any better than the ny-locks
called for in the plans?
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Vanremog(at)aol.com
> Sent: Sunday, November 03, 2002 12:58 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Self Locking Castle Nuts
>
>
>
> In a message dated 11/3/2002 8:45:33 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net writes:
>
> > A very experienced builder (RV's, F1's, S51's, Velocity's, etc)
> > recommended that I use self locking castle nuts on all control
> > linkages.
> >
> > This will provide redundancy on these very flight critical linkages.
> >
> > Has anyone used them in their RV's?
>
> Your friend is absolutely right and I use them on all of the
> horizontal
> control surface bolts.
>
> -GV (RV-6A N1GV 575hrs)
>
>
> ===========
> Contribution
> Free Gifts!
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Self Locking Castle Nuts |
I believe that some people are under the mistaken impression that the
control surface bolts experience a rotational force. They do not. They're
clamped to the brackets, which in turn are clamped to the hinge ball.
Nothing in that assembly rotates - only the ball inside the hinge moves, so
there isn't any rotational force being transmitted to the nut/bolt assembly.
If anyone feels more comfortable with castlenuts, by all means, use them.
But if that's the case then shouldn't they be used everywhere? What about
the seat belt attach points? That's pretty critical too. I have been
building, flying, and working on experimental aircraft and ultralights for
20 years, and I have never seen a NEW nylon lock nut loosen up, much less
come off. I know some people re-use locknuts over and over - that's false
economy. Locknuts should be used once, and only once. Whenever I take one
off it goes straight into the "used once" bin, only to be re-used in a
non-aircraft application. I would wager that a new locknut has the same
chance of coming off as a cotter pin has of breaking when used with a
castlenut - in other words, virtually nil.
I'm leery any time someone wants to re-engineer something in an RV. If
there was a benefit to doing so, I'm sure Van would already recommend it.
But that's the beauty of experimental aviation - everyone can do what they
feel is best.
Ed Bundy
RV6a 500+ hours
> A very experienced builder (RV's, F1's, S51's, Velocity's, etc)
recommended
> that I use self locking castle nuts on all control linkages.
>
> This will provide redundancy on these very flight critical linkages.
>
> Has anyone used them in their RV's?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Another RV-7A takes flight! |
This morning, Pat Patterson finally decided he'd had enough taxi runs and lifted
N602EP into the air for the first time. I didn't get to see the first flight
because he didn't want anyone around for the first one. I was there for the
second flight. It was pretty impressive to watch as he did a couple of low passes
at various speeds. His new ship is powered by a 180hp Lyc and a CS prop.
He's pretty impressed with the performance, so far. Anyway, this is the RV-7A
that Bobby Hester mentioned he had photos of at his web site. It's done in
the same paint scheme as Van's demo machine.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
EAA Tech Counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eugene Williams" <Ewill177(at)hotmail.com> |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Barnes" <skytop(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Disassemble gascolator |
List,
I have the blue gascolator that Van sells and am about to disassemble it for
the first time. After removing the four (4) screws that secure the cup, it
still wants to stay put, but moves slightly as if it is held in place by a rubber
seal of some sort. Should I just go ahead and tug it off or is it held by
something that needs some attention?
Thanks in advance.
Tom Barnes -6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Disassemble gascolator |
Tom:
The cylinder merely slips into the machined block on top. The cylinder has
a rubber "O" ring which seals against leakage, and this is probably giving
you some resistance, but it should just pull straight out.
George Kilishek
N888GK
>From: "Tom Barnes" <skytop(at)megsinet.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Disassemble gascolator
>Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 15:41:32 -0600
>
>
>List,
> I have the blue gascolator that Van sells and am about to disassemble
>it for the first time. After removing the four (4) screws that secure the
>cup, it still wants to stay put, but moves slightly as if it is held in
>place by a rubber seal of some sort. Should I just go ahead and tug it off
>or is it held by something that needs some attention?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>Tom Barnes -6
>
>
Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel pressure gauge from Vans |
Tried to start my engine for the first time on
Saturday. The first problem was getting oil pressure
before we even tried to start the engine. We hand
cranked the engine with 4 spark plugs out until we
could get oil pressure. No luck!! A friend had a
machanical oil pressure gauge that we hook up to the
oil pressure line and it showed I had oil pressure.
My question is how can I test Vans oil pressure gauge
and the sender unit to see which one is not working?
Dan DeNeal
rv6a (almost ready to fly)
HotJobs - Search new jobs daily now
http://hotjobs.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel pressure gauge from Vans |
Dan,
Hook-up an airline fitting and start withVERY low pressures.
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: airport problems |
In a message dated 11/3/2002 11:14:28 AM Central Standard Time,
rv9er(at)3rivers.net writes:
> SO, lets not confuse the issue... this is an issue of the FBO being afraid
> of lawsuits.
>
Sorry for another post on the subject, I know that the above is what your
airport manager tells you face to face but what people say and what they have
really as their motivation may be different. while "space" may not be the
issue it may be wise to make sure there is not some other issue driving this
and that "insurance" is not just a convenient excuse to remove you and others
like you. Just some thoughts, not being argumentative. Hope it goes well. Do
Not Archive. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | oops on countersinking |
| From: | Jerry Howell <jehowell(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
Greetings all....
I have mistakenly countersunk the wrong side of the the right elevator
spar, in preparation of attaching the root rib. I'm thinking of
countersinking the proper side to a larger size and riveting the spar /
rib together with MK-319-BS pop rivets. Since the root rib and spar
are then further connected by the elevator horn, I'm thinking that this
will provide additional structural integrity and I should be ok.
Will this work, or should I start over on a new spar?
Thanks!
RV-7A
Empennage
Tampa
Jerry Howell
jehowell(at)tampabay.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Technical education |
In a message dated 11/3/2002 10:47:32 AM Central Standard Time,
frenchflyer21(at)yahoo.com writes:
> You cannot use experience on experimental airplanes
> towards getting your A&P, only on planes with a
> standard certificate. You need to go to an A&P school
> for 2 years or establish 30 months mini of full time
> practical experience in the duties of and A&P. Then
> you have to take the exams. If you have the time, go
> to evening classes at a community college. A friend
> of mine did it and learnt a lot of good stuff.
This is not completely true, I have come across several people who have used
building their own aircraft as a method of getting the A&P. Usually such
individuals must gain additional experience before the FAA FSDO will sign
them off for the written and oral exams or may have had prior military
experience. Military experience in and off it self will not get an A&P either
but I think there is a move toward that due to the A&P shortage in the
airlines. Actually I think various interests want to flood the market with A&
P's to drive labor costs down--I am speaking primarily of the airlines. Good
luck. See if the EAA has any suggestions, I think they probably do. Do Not
Archive. JR, A&P
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: oops on countersinking |
Here is one possibility not being totally sure of what you have going on. Set
some 426 rivets in some spare metal after cs'ing. Drill the heads off.
Install these "cone" shaped rivet washers in the countersunk boo-boos. Maybe
use some 9309 or T88 epoxy and use draw clecos to compress. Since I am
assuming the area will be sandwhiched I think this will work. If it is not
sandwhiched can you install a doubler still using the homemade rivet washers.
I think you must have cs the inside so I believe this would work. We actually
do similar repairs for "certified" bizjets--the engineers disposition this so
it can work. The oversizing is best avoided so you can make a repair latter.
Try and keep your new airplane at the correct size. Course, I am looking at
an oversize hole right here on mine, hmmmmmmmm. Good luck ( I don't need
luck--I have skill--yeah--that must be how this hole got here). Do Not
Archive. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Self Locking Castle Nuts |
In a message dated 11/3/2002 1:42:50 PM Pacific Standard Time,
ebundy(at)velocitus.net writes:
> I believe that some people are under the mistaken impression that the
> control surface bolts experience a rotational force. They do not. They're
> clamped to the brackets, which in turn are clamped to the hinge ball.
> Nothing in that assembly rotates - only the ball inside the hinge moves, so
> there isn't any rotational force being transmitted to the nut/bolt
> assembly.
>
Yeah, I'll bet the mechanic that worked on the Cirrus that recently shed an
aileron thought the same thing ;
).
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 575hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Self Locking Castle Nuts |
In a message dated 11/3/2002 1:10:39 PM Pacific Standard Time,
Larry(at)bowenaero.com writes:
> I assume you are pairing the castle nuts with the drilled bolt, right?
Smart guy, I thought that would be obvious.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 575hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: oops on countersinking |
Hi Jerry,
A new spar and shipping represents a cost, and waiting for delivery might
mean a loss of building momentum. Also, calling Van's with your question at
best means lots of re-dialing and waiting for an answer direct from the
horses mouth so to speak.
The security that arises out of doing the kit manufacturer' approved work
around "is priceless" :-)
If you have access to an aircraft sheet metal shop that can reproduce the
part faster and cheaper than the above go that way as an alternate choice.
Keep building,
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Howell" <jehowell(at)tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: oops on countersinking
>
> Greetings all....
>
> I have mistakenly countersunk the wrong side of the the right elevator
> spar, in preparation of attaching the root rib. I'm thinking of
> countersinking the proper side to a larger size and riveting the spar /
> rib together with MK-319-BS pop rivets. Since the root rib and spar
> are then further connected by the elevator horn, I'm thinking that this
> will provide additional structural integrity and I should be ok.
>
> Will this work, or should I start over on a new spar?
>
> Thanks!
> RV-7A
> Empennage
> Tampa
>
>
> Jerry Howell
> jehowell(at)tampabay.rr.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel pressure gauge from Vans |
Why the very low pressures? Lycomings generally have a running pressure of
80 psi.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel pressure gauge from Vans
>
> Dan,
>
> Hook-up an airline fitting and start withVERY low pressures.
>
> Chuck
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel pressure gauge from Vans |
> Tried to start my engine for the first time on
> Saturday. The first problem was getting oil pressure
> before we even tried to start the engine. We hand
> cranked the engine with 4 spark plugs out until we
> could get oil pressure. No luck!! A friend had a
> machanical oil pressure gauge that we hook up to the
> oil pressure line and it showed I had oil pressure.
>
> My question is how can I test Vans oil pressure gauge
> and the sender unit to see which one is not working?
Be sure the transducer is externally grounded.
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <michael.j.robbins(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Technical education |
Think it depends on who you talk to. I have the P but never got the
A. When I got my Repairman's Certificate for the 8 the FAA guy (Northwest
region) said I could take the A written and practical with my
experience. He told me to give him a call when I'm ready and he would sign
me off.
Mike Robbins
RV-8Q N88MJ 127 hours
Seattle area
>
>You cannot use experience on experimental airplanes
>towards getting your A&P,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 project for sale |
Fellow Listers:
I have a friend in southern Missouri who knows of an RV-4 project for sale.
Apparently the tail and wings are finished. That's about all I know about
it. If anyone is interested, please email to Don Partridge at:
peartreebv(at)juno.com
Thanks
Doug Weiler
pres MN Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Cleveland "Main Squeeze" Model 22 |
Has anyone had the opportunity to use this model, and if so, is it as good as the
company claims? Thank you.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Interesting wheel fairing. |
>
>Tom Gummo wrote:
>
> >
> > Chris,
> >
> > If I remember Van's numbers correctly but I think he claims that a
> > properly fared gear and retract are only a couple of MPH
> different. For me,
> > the effort would not be worth the time and money involved.
>
>Retracts would certainly be a lot of work, but I heard through third or fourth
>hand that the RV 4 that has retracts can cruise at 230 mph. I would like to
>know if this is really true as I find it hard to believe. I am thinking
>that my
>wheel fairing would give you 2 or 3 knots at most.
>
>--
>Chris Woodhouse
If it's the retract -4 I'm thinking of, it had a 200 hp engine, cs prop and
was a very clean plane. You could easily do 230 with fixed gear, pressure
recovery fairings and that much hp. Dave Anders was pushing 260 with his
IIRC (an exceptionally clean plane with extra hp). I remember an outfit
called Fancy Pants (or something like that) that made slick fairings for
Cessnas. It made an amazing increase in cruise speed and showed that good
fairings are nearly equivalent to retract.
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
13B in gestation mode
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Another RV-7A takes flight! |
Jim,
Please pass on to PAT our:
CONGRATULATIONS & WELL DONE !!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Another RV-7A takes flight!
>Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 16:55:13 -0500
>
>
>This morning, Pat Patterson finally decided he'd had enough taxi runs and
>lifted N602EP into the air for the first time. I didn't get to see the
>first flight because he didn't want anyone around for the first one. I was
>there for the second flight. It was pretty impressive to watch as he did a
>couple of low passes at various speeds. His new ship is powered by a 180hp
>Lyc and a CS prop. He's pretty impressed with the performance, so far.
>Anyway, this is the RV-7A that Bobby Hester mentioned he had photos of at
>his web site. It's done in the same paint scheme as Van's demo machine.
>
>Jim Sears in KY
>RV-6A N198JS
>EAA Tech Counselor
>
>
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil (fuel) pressure gauge from Vans |
My transducer is well grounded. I know I'm getting oil
pressure but the gauge shows nothing. How do I test
voltage from the transducer and how can I send the
same type of voltage to the gauge?
> > Tried to start my engine for the first time on
> > Saturday. The first problem was getting oil
> pressure
> > before we even tried to start the engine. We hand
> > cranked the engine with 4 spark plugs out until we
> > could get oil pressure. No luck!! A friend had a
> > machanical oil pressure gauge that we hook up to
> the
> > oil pressure line and it showed I had oil
> pressure.
> >
> > My question is how can I test Vans oil pressure
> gauge
> > and the sender unit to see which one is not
> working?
>
>
> Be sure the transducer is externally grounded.
>
>
> Doug Weiler
> Hudson, WI
>
>
>
> Month --
> Gifts!)
> Click on the Contribution
> Terrific Free Gifts!
> Dralle, List Admin.
> _->
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
HotJobs - Search new jobs daily now
http://hotjobs.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dwpetrus(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | SPREADSHEET FOR RV8A W & B |
I am looking for a spreadsheet for W & B on a RV8A in Excel format.
Thanks,
Wayne Petrus
RV8A finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)bvd.cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | Re: SPREADSHEET FOR RV8A W & B |
Here you go...
http://vondane.com/RV8A-W&B.xls
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A ~ 74 hours
www.vondane.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <Dwpetrus(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: SPREADSHEET FOR RV8A W & B
I am looking for a spreadsheet for W & B on a RV8A in Excel format.
Thanks,
Wayne Petrus
RV8A finishing
Delivered using the Free Personal Edition of Mailtraq (www.mailtraq.com)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gene Gottschalk <geneg(at)sled.gsfc.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | RV6A Project for Sale |
Complete kit. Empennage completed. Wings nearly completed. Fuselage ready
for fitting gear. Metal fuselage jig included. Finishing kit. Sliding
canopy. Everything included to finish project except engine, prop, and
radios. Contact back channel for complete description. Every option,
including many extras. Complete logs, photos, and EAA tech councilors'
sign-offs.
Contact: miranda(at)tartan30.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karpinski" <karpinski(at)baldcom.net> |
| Subject: | SPREADSHEET FOR RV8A W & B |
WOW!! Your God Like... :>!!
What a neat W&B spreadsheet...
I will; be playing with it all day !!
No Archive..
Al Karpinski
RV-8 - 25%
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BrownScottA(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: SPREADSHEET FOR RV8A W & B |
Can someone please send me the W&B spreadsheet. I would like to see what a
really good one looks like. Thanks!
Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gene Gottschalk <geneg(at)sled.gsfc.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A Project for Sale |
I should have included that the project is located in the Baltimore
Washington DC area.
>
>Complete kit. Empennage completed. Wings nearly completed. Fuselage ready
>for fitting gear. Metal fuselage jig included. Finishing kit. Sliding
>canopy. Everything included to finish project except engine, prop, and
>radios. Contact back channel for complete description. Every option,
>including many extras. Complete logs, photos, and EAA tech councilors'
>sign-offs.
>
>Contact: miranda(at)tartan30.org
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
| Subject: | don(at)dmack.net |
Don at don(at)dmack.net asked for the source of ignition wire pass through for
his plane. I sent him the information at the e-mail listed on his request
(and above) and got a rejection message saying I was listed as a spammer and
my message was rejected.
What the h---- is going on, Don?
John at Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel pressure gauge from Vans |
Cy,
Why to check for accuracy of course (and just to be careful).
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Cy Galley <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel pressure gauge from Vans
>
> Why the very low pressures? Lycomings generally have a running pressure
of
> 80 psi.
>
> Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
>
> Editor, EAA Safety Programs
> cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
>
> Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel pressure gauge from Vans
>
>
> >
> > Dan,
> >
> > Hook-up an airline fitting and start withVERY low pressures.
> >
> > Chuck
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 project for sale |
Hey Doug,
Is this like one of those "April Fools" jokes for Christmas (... a
Partridge in a Pear Tree..) ???
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Doug Weiler <dougweil(at)pressenter.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV-4 project for sale
>
> Fellow Listers:
>
> I have a friend in southern Missouri who knows of an RV-4 project for
sale.
> Apparently the tail and wings are finished. That's about all I know about
> it. If anyone is interested, please email to Don Partridge at:
> peartreebv(at)juno.com
>
> Thanks
>
> Doug Weiler
> pres MN Wing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan&Patty Krueger <pndkrueg(at)infi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ignition wire bulk head pass thru |
Don Mack wrote:
>
>
> I am looking for the fasteners that pass both pairs of ignition leads
> through the left and right rear baffles.
Bottom left corner page 241, 2002-2003 ACS catalog.
Dan Krueger
RV6A Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Arnold de Brie" <ajdbrie(at)interestate.nl> |
I have a RV8 flying in the Netherlands with a Lycoming IO360 C1E6
My #4 cilinder has significantly lower CHT and EGT
The engine sounds OK and when cold all temperatures are the same so I
think I can rule out faultly sensors.
Can anyone tell me what things I have to check??
Thanks
Arnold de Brie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Cap Deal Instructions (Bad Work) |
Steve, for what it's worth:
I got one of the RV-List name badges that you did for us a year or two back.
I think it was a work of art. I have a hard time believing that the fuel
caps would come out looking that bad. I wholeheartedly agree with you here.
People, do you have to air your dirty laundry in public? Any supplier, not
just Steve, should be given a chance to make things right if you are not
happy with the service you receive. If the supplier refuses to make amends
then you should warn other list'ers about the supplier. I find it extremely
difficult to believe that Steve falls into this category.
(There, Keith!)
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Manager
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: sdavis12 [mailto:sdavis12(at)midsouth.rr.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Cap Deal Instructions (Bad Work)
Listers,
If someone has a problem with the caps, Please contact me direct and at
least give me a chance to correct the problem, Mr. Condon and Mr. Couture
even a grade school helper would do that!. Most of the intelligent people I
know would have enough sense to know that the caps were not in the best
shape when they came from vans, anything I did wouldn't change that fact. If
it took to long I apologize, some people were nice enough to e-mail me and
ask If I would wait till they got theirs here for me to do, so I waited,
can't win them all. But I never advertised that they were going to come back
to you looking like a chrome bumper, those of you who polished theirs I'm
sure wouldn't do it for 12 bucks each.
----- Original Message -----
From: "P M Condon" <pcondon(at)mitre.org>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Cap Deal Instructions (Bad Work)
>
>
> My caps were done poorly also. Looks like a grade-school helper did it.
> Took a long time to get done and didn't look professional. Poor letter
> edge defination, inconsistant depth, vise/tooling marks and poor letter
> allignment. Better then using a electric buzz pencil, but not by much.
> Very disappointed.
>
>
> <commando@cox-internet.com>
>
> Hey folks,
> Just an update on the fuel caps I received back from Steve this
> week.
> Unfortunately, I was not impressed. They did not look anything like the
> picture Paul posted to this list a few weeks ago and more like something
> I
> could have had done at a local trophy shop for a lot less money.
> I enjoy this list mostly for the information it provides on
> suppliers
> for RV related items. I just don't think this was such a great deal.
> Sorry
> Steve.
>
> Wayne
> RV-8a
> working on cabin
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Airport Problems |
I'd approach your city airport commission, port authority, or whomever has
authority over the airport manager and ask them what is going on. If other
planes are being built on the field from scratch how can they say you can't
do it. Check your lease agreement very carefully. If it is not in there
they can't enforce it. You could always (yech) get a lawyer. We may not
like them much but they do get things done.
Legal disclaimer: I don't really hate lawyers, I have friends and relatives
who are lawyers. No offense was expressed or implied by the word "yech" in
the above text. This is a limited time office. Not valid in New Hampshire.
Your mileage may vary.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Manager
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Norman [mailto:jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com]
Subject: RV-List: Airport Problems
OK Listers, here's a new problem...
I'm putting my wings on my plane in a hanger that I rent. I have been based
at this airport for almost 8 years (I have an Archer).
The airport manager (without ANY warnings) shows up yesterday with eviction
papers giving me 5 days to clean out the hangar. Why? Because we are
"building an airplane" at the airport and this is not allowed. Of course,
my plane was "built" at home, painted in a shop, and transported to the
airport ready to bolt together. Its done except for wings, ailerons, and
flaps.
Also, of course, there are a dozen or more experimentals at this airport.
Some, being built from scratch at the airport.
Bottom line, after begging (and other distasteful measures) I was allowed to
keep the hangar, but only for a "completed" airplane. They gave me 24 hours
to get rid of the plane "parts". I have complied with this (what a pain in
the butt). They even demanded that a work bench and all tools be removed.
Their issue "insurance". "What happens if your plane falls on you and you
get crushed and hold us liable?" Of course, of the $419 a month I pay for a
hangar, $23.00 goes to "insurance" (its a line item). My plane is insured
with builder's insurance (John Helms, are you reading this?). (I think
there may be some more underlying issues, but I can't put my finger on them
yet).
Questions: 1) Has anybody heard of this before? 2) When is the plane a
plane? When it has wings but not flaps? Wings and flaps but not ailerons?
Fuselage and wings, but no avionics? They are quoting a clause that says
"no airplane repairs shall be undertaken in areas not designated for such
repairs, except for routine maintenance".
Need some advice here... don't want to set a precedence for this airport
that may spread.
jim
Tampa
Vandenberg Airport VDF (near Sun-N-Fun, so don't come here on your way to
Sun-n-Fun).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PittsS1D(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV6 tapes for sale |
RV6 Orndorff Construction Tapes for Sale
RV Construction - 3 volumes
RV construction Empannage - 2 volumes
RV6 Quickbuild - 3 volumes
RV Systems - 2 volumes
RV-6 Interior - 1 volume
All for $100 or best offer.
Contact Chuck at pittss1d(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Interesting wheel fairing. |
In a message dated 11/04/2002 1:57:46 PM Eastern Standard Time,
ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca writes:
> - I have recently
> completed the wheel and gear leg fairings (but not intersection). I spent
> a
> lot of time getting the gear leg fairings just right.
>
I wonder if there is a way to tell after the fact that you got them just
right. I, too, spent hours with the plane on jacks, measuring and
remeasuring per the plans, to set the fairings parallel to the airstream, but
I still wonder how well I did. I also wonder what effect the spiral
sl;ipstream off the prop has on how we want the leg fairings aligned anyway.
Can't see this area in flight, so tufts are arguably no use without a remote
camera to watch them. Would oil droplets work as indicators of flow
separation? In-flight adjustable fairings? Set the fairnigs in slow-setting
bondo and fly while they harden in-trail? So many possibilities...
-Bill B
RV-6A flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Galati" <rick07x(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Fuel Cap Deal Instructions (Bad Work) |
Steve,
I purchased your fuel cap engraving work almost 2 years ago for my
under-construction 6A. Virtually every builder who has stopped by
to see my project has remarked on the excellent quality of the engraved
product. Pretty hard to beat for a small price post paid. I never once thought
I
was paying you to paint or highlight or polish the caps. That's my
job. And you did your job superbly.
+
--- Rick Galati
--- rick07x(at)earthlink.net
--- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Henley" <henley(at)seii.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Low #4 temps |
Arnold,
How much lower are the temps. Where is your oil cooler? If on the
firewall, where does the cooling air come from? How do the temps look at
different power settings: takeoff, climb, 75% and 65 %? Is that a fuel
injected engine?
John Henley
----- Original Message -----
From: "Arnold de Brie" <ajdbrie(at)interestate.nl>
Subject: RV-List: Low #4 temps
>
>
> I have a RV8 flying in the Netherlands with a Lycoming IO360 C1E6
>
> My #4 cilinder has significantly lower CHT and EGT
>
> The engine sounds OK and when cold all temperatures are the same so I
> think I can rule out faultly sensors.
>
> Can anyone tell me what things I have to check??
>
> Thanks
>
> Arnold de Brie
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Henley" <henley(at)seii.net> |
| Subject: | Oil Cooler for Sale |
I have a 7 row Niagara oil cooler for sale. Purchased new from Vans earlier this
year and used 9 hours (found that it was not adequate for an IO 360). price
$160. Reply off net.
John Henley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)bvd.cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | Re: SPREADSHEET FOR RV8A W & B |
I also have an RV-6A version here:
http://vondane.com/RV6A-W&B.xls
--
On Mon, 4 Nov 2002 08:41:54
Bill VonDane wrote:
>
>Here you go...
>
>http://vondane.com/RV8A-W&B.xls
>
>-Bill VonDane
>RV-8A ~ 74 hours
>www.vondane.com
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <Dwpetrus(at)aol.com>
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: SPREADSHEET FOR RV8A W & B
>
>
>I am looking for a spreadsheet for W & B on a RV8A in Excel format.
>
>Thanks,
>Wayne Petrus
>RV8A finishing
>
Outgrown your current e-mail service? Get 25MB Storage, POP3 Access,
Advanced Spam protection with LYCOS MAIL PLUS.
http://login.mail.lycos.com/brandPage.shtml?pageId=plus&ref=lmtplus
Delivered using the Free Personal Edition of Mailtraq (www.mailtraq.com)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Carillon <Carillon(at)centurytel.net> |
"rv-list(at)matronics.com"
| Subject: | RV 9A Quickbuild Kit 90415 for Sale |
The best laid plans....
Brief story leading up to a disappointing situation.
Last August I sold my Piper Saratoga and ordered the 9A QB kit. It
took longer than expected to finish the Zenith 601HDS I was building so
no work has been started. It is now apparent that my wife, at age 69,
has become too unsteady and claustrophobic to climb up on the wing -
even with my help - get in the cockpit and let me close the canopy.
After 45 years it is easier to change airplanes than wives so I just
purchased another Saratoga. As before, it is easy for her to get in the
back door, and she feels comfortable with the room the club seating
provides. This is important because we plan to travel a lot now that we
can.
The QB kit set up for 160 Hp Lyc.Dynafocal mounts and CS prop has been
opened, inspected, and inventoried. It is complete with all
documentation, finishing kit, and options which include wing landing
lights, electric elevator trim, manual aileron trim, external steps, and
static air kit.
The kit is located near Ladysmith, Wi. ( RCX ). My address is:
W15873 Ross Road
Sheldon , Wi. 54766
Tel. 1-715-668-5527
Fax 1-715-668-5547
I would be willing to pick up serious buyers, wanting to inspect the
kit, in my Saratoga, provide local transportation, and fly them home
again. Somebody will be able to take advantage of this situation, get a
great deal, and with some dedication, be flying when the weather warms
up again.
John Carillon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Ford" <dford(at)michweb.net> |
I'm at the initial stage of trimming the cowl on my RV6. Have marked a line 2
inches aft of top skin at firewall & sideskins. Have another builder who has
made a 9 x 2 1/4 spacer to mount to starter ring gear & have spinner backplate
mounted to it. I'm having trouble getting a consistent spacing around backplate
of spinner--have not made any cuts to cowl yet. My first question is should
I first trim off the outer flange of lower cowl? Then trim top cowl at firewall
to get top cowl to "drop down" so spacing at spinner backplate is even with
lower cowl gap? Any help appreciated.
Dave Ford
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Low #4 temps |
Arnold, Our #4 cyl is 20 degress cooler than our other cylinders CHT and
EGT. We have our Oil cooler mounted and sealed well on the baffle behind #4.
Another 8 builder, also with an IO-360 (200hp), has a similar situation.
Engines strong.
On a side note: Positech replaced (at no cost) our original oil cooler with
their improved unit. Since installing the new cooler (more space between the
cooling tubes) our temps have been in the mid to low 90 degress C.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A Niantic, CT
>From: "Arnold de Brie" <ajdbrie(at)interestate.nl>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "Rv-List(at)Matronics. Com"
>Subject: RV-List: Low #4 temps
>Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 19:20:49 +0100
>
>
>I have a RV8 flying in the Netherlands with a Lycoming IO360 C1E6
>
>My #4 cilinder has significantly lower CHT and EGT
>
>The engine sounds OK and when cold all temperatures are the same so I
>think I can rule out faultly sensors.
>
>Can anyone tell me what things I have to check??
>
>Thanks
>
>Arnold de Brie
>
>
http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/freeactivation.asp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | rollbar squareness |
UPDATE ON ROLLBAR SQUARENESS.....CAUTION NOTE....DISCLAIMER... What
follows is a work in progress and is my interpretation of Van's support
guidance. I will keep you appraised:
Van's told me today that "the 90 degree note on the drawing 42 view C-C,
is not as important as some other things". Putting a square on the
longeron and the rollbar is not as important as another measurement.
To whit; put a straight edge from one side of the fuselage to the other,
touching the rollbar tubes. Drop a plumb bob from the top center. The
place that is critical is the latch pin area. Max is 3/8" forward of the
straight edge. Being aft is not as critical, but try to keep it under
3/8", also. Also note that the gaps to canopy frame to rollbar, on the
sides, is NOT CRITICAL AT ALL. That more builders get in deep, trying to
get nicely spaced, equal on both sides, gaps! That the rear canopy frame
is what you need to work hard on.
My rollbar is tipped aft almost 3/8", using the straight edge method,
using an .032 under the heals of the rollbar, on both sides. I'll let
you how it goes. If it doesn't work, I'll loosen those nasty bolts and
stuff some more shims in there.
Barry Pote RV9a
snip
> I
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
Arnold, how much cooler? You may have a problem with the injector in
that cylinder. Do you have a fuel flow meter? If so, you can make
some graphs of fuel flow vs EGT for each cylinder. They all should peak
at similar total fuel flows. The actual peak temperatures of each
cylinder aren't really that important, it is the positions of the peaks
relative to each other that are important. Set up some cruise power
setting, and start with the mixture a gallon or two (or your metric
equivalent of about 6-8 liters/hr) rich of where you believe peak EGT
will be. At each mixture (fuel flow) setting, let it stabilize for maybe
30 seconds and take readings of all four EGT's. Lean the mixture a
tenth of a gallon or so and let it stabilize again, taking readings. Do
this right through peak EGT and continue lean of peak until roughness
occurs. Then chart this data with the fuel flow on the horizontal axis,
and EGT on the vertical axis. There will be four curves, one for each
cylinder. This will be telling you the story.
See the graph for my plane on
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson/fuelflow.htm (note this website is
brand new and still quite basic!
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 222 hours
> I have a RV8 flying in the Netherlands with a Lycoming IO360 C1E6
>
> My #4 cilinder has significantly lower CHT and EGT
>
> The engine sounds OK and when cold all temperatures are the
> same so I think I can rule out faultly sensors.
>
> Can anyone tell me what things I have to check??
>
> Thanks
>
> Arnold de Brie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Airport Problems |
0100,0100,0100
I'm engaged in fighting this problem at Manassas airport (HEF), where the city
has changed the franchise agreements in such a way that the city believes most
maintenance is prohibited in hangers, and final construction
of aircraft is prohibited as well, even in EAA's hanger.
Useful reference material:
FAA Order 5190.6A, page 10 or so says "4-15(a). Servicing of Aircraft. All grant
agreements contain an assurance that the sponsor will not exercise or grant
any right or privilege which would have the effect of preventi
ng the operator of an aircraft from performing any services on its own aircraft
with its own employees. An aircraft operator, otherwise entitled to use the
landing area, may tiedown, adjust, repair, refuel, clean and o
therwise service its own aircraft, provided it does so with its own employees
in accordance with reasonable rules or standards of the sponsor relating to such
work." (5190.6A is available from the members section of ww
w.aopa.org, or follow the links from the AAS-400 site, mentioned later in this
email)
AC 5190-5a (http://www.faa.gov/arp/ACs/5190-5a1.pdf), Exclusive Rights and Minimum Standards, where you'll find "5. BACKGROUND. In accordance with the Airport and Airway Improvement Act of l982, 49 U.S.C. 47101, et se
q., and the Airport Improvement Program Sponsor Assurances, the owner or operator
of any airport that has been developed or improved with Federal grant assistance
is required to operate the airport for the use and bene
fit of the public and to make it available for ***all types, kinds, and classes
of aeronautical activity.***"
Another useful quote: "(2) All grant agreements contain an assurance that establishes
a privilege (to service ones own aircraft) but does not, by itself, compel
the sponsor to lease such facilities that may be necessar
y to exercise that right. However, a sponsor must provide or make available an
area for self-servicing activities."
Also see http://www.faa.gov/arp/400aashm.cfm, the web page of the FAA's airports compliance division (AAS-400). According to Mr Heibeck at AAS-400, the precedent case relevant to our discussion is Ashton v City of Conc
ord, where maintenance and construction were prohibited in city owned hangers.
Note that in that case the FAA initially ruled that experimental aircraft construction
is not an aeronautical activity. (Yes, we pay good tax dollars for that
sort of rubbish from the FAA sometimes.) That position wa
s not sustained on appeal, but is was not reversed, either. It was eliminated
from the ruling. Mr Heibeck suggested that if this issue comes up again, especially
in a case where FINAL assembly is at issue, there's a
good chance the FAA will reach the obvious conclusion that final assembly is an
aeronautical activity. Little pieces of airplanes can be assembled at home,
but final assembly pretty much has to happen at an airport, an
d thus is an aeronautical activity (under the FAR definition).
Be aware that the Ashton case sets a precedent that goes against our cause. The
final ruling upheld the city's right to prohibit maintenance and assembly in
city owned hangers. But Mr Heibeck pointed out that if any
of the specific facts of that case had been different, the ruling might have been
different. Note, in particular, that Concord provided a $100,000 owner self
maintenance facility for $2 per hour.
If your airport prohibits the aeronautical activity of final experimental aircraft
construction in your hanger, where is the self maintenance location they
provide? Is it appropriate?
If you need a copy of Aston v Concord you can get it from Lexus legal search (if
you have a lawyer buddy), or I can email you a copy.
AAS-400, and/or the compliance folks in your FAA region, will work with you to
try to resolve compliance issues with your airport. If they can't get voluntary
compliance forom the airport there's a formal complaint pro
cedure, a ruling, and ultimately the airport can loose all future federal
funds.
Good luck fighting the good fight. I hear the EAA homebuilt council
has begun engaging the FAA on maintenance and assembly issues.
In my experience AOPA has been absolutely useless for any help or
advice on this issue. I got my best ammunition and leads directly
from Mr Heibeck at AAS-400.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: trimming cowl |
Hi Dave;
I assume you mean the spacing between the aft edge of the spinner baseplate
and the cowl front face is uneven.
Mine fit not too badly when everything got settled in place although some
guys have gotten into major fiberglass work to fix badly warped cowlings. I
received the later so-called "S-type" cowl with my finish kit. Usual advice
is to set the closest part to your desired spacing (1/4" or whatever) and
use filler as need to get an even gap vice cutting the cowl to reset the
distance.
Assuming you are going to use the plan's "hinge pin" method of joining the
top & bottom cowls, yes, step one is to remove the overlapping flange along
the side of the bottom cowl. There is a possibility of using screws or dzus
fasteners here but if you choose to do so, Vans will cut you loose and you
will be on your own.
I fitted the lower cowl first and then the top cowl. Others have done just
the reverse, so this is a matter of personal preference.
You should be able to spread the cowl so it goes outside the firewall and
overlaps the fuse skin. Use some duct tape to hold it in place while you set
the spinner-cowl spacing. A ring of 1/4" or so ply behind the spinner works
well to set the spacing. Your 2" line should still show. Measure 2" forward
of your line onto the cowl and that is your trim line. Suggest you trim
first at 1 7/8" to see how the fit is then refine as you need. I used a
Dremel tool with a cut off disk for detail work and a bigger size cutoff
wheel in an electric drill for the rough cuts. Once the aft edge is trimmed,
make sure the side cuts are straight (I used a long strip of 1" wide sanding
cloth stapled to a 2x2), tape it securely in place and move on to the top
cowl.
A similar method can be used to fit the aft edge of the top cowl and again
for the side cowl.
As things settle into place, you may well find the "spinner gap" evening out
and improving.
Looking straight on the spinner backplate should be centered on the cowling
front and about 1/4 - 3/8 in smaller in radius to account for the thickness
of the spinner itself and the slope of the spinner. This is largely
controlled by the fit of the join at the inside of the cooling air inlets
which will need some work to get a good fit.
Good luck!
Jim Oke
RV-6A (finishing push is on!)
Winnipeg, MB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Ford" <dford(at)michweb.net>
Subject: RV-List: trimming cowl
>
> I'm at the initial stage of trimming the cowl on my RV6. Have marked a
line 2 inches aft of top skin at firewall & sideskins. Have another builder
who has made a 9 x 2 1/4 spacer to mount to starter ring gear & have spinner
backplate mounted to it. I'm having trouble getting a consistent spacing
around backplate of spinner--have not made any cuts to cowl yet. My first
question is should I first trim off the outer flange of lower cowl? Then
trim top cowl at firewall to get top cowl to "drop down" so spacing at
spinner backplate is even with lower cowl gap? Any help appreciated.
>
> Dave Ford
> RV6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | New List Digest Feature!! [Please Read] |
Dear Listers,
I've added a new feature to the Digest format of the Lists tonight. At the
top of each digest you will find a new Index Listing of all of the messages
found within that Digest including the Message Number, Subject, Poster, and
Time of Day posted.
I've also added a "Message Number" header to each message within the Digest
so that its easy to find 'just the message' you were looking for!
Sorry for the double posting of the digests tonight - the first time I
didn't quite have the code right and a few "bogus" entries made it into the
Index. I went ahead and reposted the Digest so that everyone could see how
the Index-to-Message mapping really worked.
Special 'thanks' to Gary Hall for not only suggesting a Digest Index, but
also supplying a few samples on how it might look. Gary, I think you'll be
quite pleased with the format!
Don't forget that were right in the middle of this year's List Fund Raiser
and if you haven't already made your Contribution, you own it to yourself
to check out the great free Gifts that are available this year with your
qualifying Contribution.
The Lists are operated completely though the support of it members, and so
its up to YOU to get that credit card out and make that $20, $30, or $50
show of support for the continued operation of the Lists.
Won't you take a couple of minutes and make a quick Contribution on the all
new, streamlined List Support web site? I've also added a
Payment-through-PayPal option this year, and this is proving a very popular
method of payment. Don't forget to check out the great free gifts you can
get with a qualifying Contribution this year. I can't believe how popular
they've been this year! Hurry and get your's today and support the Lists
at the same time!
Here's the SSL Secure URL for making your Contribution:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you for your Support!!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)bvd.cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | Fw: W&B for RV-6A (from RV-List) |
Mark...
I have created a new page on my site for downloads... You should be able to
get it there...
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A ~ 74 hours
www.vondane.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Phillips" <ripsteel(at)edge.net>
Subject: W&B for RV-6A (from RV-List)
Hi Bill-
I tried your link for the 6-A W&B and got "" when clicked on-
Could you please check the link and re-post, or is something wrong on
this end?
Thanks!
Mark Phillips
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)bvd.cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | Re: W&B for RV-6A (from RV-List) |
Mark...
I have created a new page on my site for downloads... You should be able to
get it there...
http://vondane.com/downloads/index.htm
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A ~ 74 hours
www.vondane.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Phillips" <ripsteel(at)edge.net>
Subject: W&B for RV-6A (from RV-List)
Hi Bill-
I tried your link for the 6-A W&B and got "" when clicked on-
Could you please check the link and re-post, or is something wrong on
this end?
Thanks!
Mark Phillips
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Arnold de Brie" <ajdbrie(at)interestate.nl> |
| Subject: | FW: Low #4 temps |
-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: Arnold de Brie [mailto:ajdbrie(at)interestate.nl]
Verzonden: maandag 4 november 2002 19:21
Aan: Rv-List(at)Matronics. Com (rv-list(at)matronics.com)
Onderwerp: Low #4 temps
I have a RV8 flying in the Netherlands with a Lycoming IO360 C1E6
My #4 cilinder has significantly lower CHT and EGT
The engine sounds OK and when cold all temperatures are the same so I
think I can rule out faultly sensors.
Can anyone tell me what things I have to check??
Thanks
Arnold de Brie
I have he oilcooler at the firewall and a hose from the rear baffle at
#4
When in cruise at 25/25 and I lean to, let's say 10 gph the CHT of #4
drops from 380 to sometimes 245 degrees
EGT also drops but less than the CHT.
Arnold
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dane Sheahen" <dane(at)mutualace.com> |
I also have an RV8a with a Lycoming IO-360-C1E6 (converted to A series sump)
with the same cool #4 cylinder. My oil cooler is right behind it on the
baffling. I mentioned this to Dick Martin and I believe he said his #4 was
cooler also. Should we be alarmed? I don't know.
????????????
RV8a?
I have a RV8 flying in the Netherlands with a Lycoming IO360 C1E6
My #4 cilinder has significantly lower CHT and EGT
The engine sounds OK and when cold all temperatures are the same so I
think I can rule out faultly sensors.
Can anyone tell me what things I have to check??
Thanks
Arnold de Brie
I have he oilcooler at the firewall and a hose from the rear baffle at
#4
When in cruise at 25/25 and I lean to, let's say 10 gph the CHT of #4
drops from 380 to sometimes 245 degrees
EGT also drops but less than the CHT.
Arnold
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Any experience with Rondure Company |
I'm ready to order my propeller and have decided on the
Sensenich fixed pitch. They are $1815 from Van's and
get drop shipped from the factory. I picked up on another
supplier -- Rondure Company -- off Doug Reeve's website.
They are offering the prop for $1660 which is quite a
savings.
Has anyone had any experience with this company? You
have to send in your money up-front (can't use a charge
card) which always makes me a little nervous.
I would appreciate any feedback on this company. Their
website is www.kitplaneparts.com.
Thanks,
Doug Medema
RV-6A #21140 N276DM (reserved) getting close!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Any experience with Rondure Company |
Is everything included (prop extension and bolts)?
Albert Gardner, Yuma, AZ
RV-9A: N872RV
Working on panel
----- Original Message -----
From: <dmedema(at)att.net>
Subject: RV-List: Any experience with Rondure Company
>
> I'm ready to order my propeller and have decided on the
> Sensenich fixed pitch. They are $1815 from Van's and
> get drop shipped from the factory. I picked up on another
> supplier -- Rondure Company -- off Doug Reeve's website.
> They are offering the prop for $1660 which is quite a
> savings.
>
> Has anyone had any experience with this company? You
> have to send in your money up-front (can't use a charge
> card) which always makes me a little nervous.
>
> I would appreciate any feedback on this company. Their
> website is www.kitplaneparts.com.
>
> Thanks,
> Doug Medema
> RV-6A #21140 N276DM (reserved) getting close!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | RV-9A engine mount/fuel pump interference |
Today, Jim Render and I were starting to set up for drilling the bolts for the
engine mount. As I was checking everything to be sure all would fit flush to
the firewall, I noticed the bolt from the fuel pump was hitting the backside of
the tube that goes up to the nose gear tube.
It was far enough out that it held the lower mount pads out about 1/4". We checked
the plans and found that the folks who did Jim's QB fuse were right on with
the pump bolts locations, as best we could tell. To get the clearance for
the mount bolts to fit up, we had to remove the anchor nut from the firewall and
put the bolt for the fuel pump through the hole from the firewall side.
We talked to Van's about this and were told that we must be mistaken since nobody
else had complained about the problem. Since I'd already built a RV, I told
them that I do know a little about building one; and, the problem is there.
Anyway, I was just curious if anyone has had a problem with this. It's either
a bad design that needs fixing; or, somebody messed up when the fuse was built.
I'm betting on the design error. What we did will work just fine; but, it's
another thing that we've found wrong with the QB.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
EAA Tech Counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MStudio828(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Fwd: First Flight |
From: MStudio828(at)aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 13:39:11 EST
Subject: First Flight
Sunday, November 3, 2002, 6:45 am
I sit looking down the runway. It has been 3 years in the making. It has been
a labor of love.
I sit alone in the cockpit. The radio is silent. The engine purr's.
The instruments are all in the green. The run-up and taxi test in the past.
I have a flight plan, but my mind only sees the runway ahead and the sky
above.
I ignore some fear in my head, the lump in my throat, butterflies in the
stomach and shaky knees.
Finally I advance the throttle, the engine growls, I'm moving, gaining speed.
Check RPM, is this right? Keep going. Keep going. Lift the tail up, gaining
speed. Keep going?
Check instruments, eyes back to the run way. Correct for drift. Keep going.
And Liftoff. She is flying, she's really flying. Ahhhhhh! Its flying, boy is
she flying, I zoom past my intended altitude, no matter, it flies!
Many thanks to all on the list. It has been an invaluable resource,
inspiration and sometimes entertaining.
Larry Mcconnell
Phoenix, Arizona
RV-8 #81195 slow build
0-360-A2A
Sensenich metal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris & Susie" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Disassemble gascolator |
Twist and pull. Mine was tight.
Chris and Susie
VH-MUM
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Barnes" <skytop(at)megsinet.net>
Subject: RV-List: Disassemble gascolator
>
> List,
> I have the blue gascolator that Van sells and am about to disassemble
it for the first time. After removing the four (4) screws that secure the
cup, it still wants to stay put, but moves slightly as if it is held in
place by a rubber seal of some sort. Should I just go ahead and tug it off
or is it held by something that needs some attention?
>
> Thanks in advance.
> Tom Barnes -6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com> |
| Subject: | RV-9A engine mount/fuel pump interference |
Jim,
I think you are CORRECT.
I was visiting a friend who is building a 9A and he had the same problem. H
epointed it out to me because I was talking about mounting my (6A) fuel pump
the same way it is done on the 9A (and 7A).
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Sears
> Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2002 2:13 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RV-9A engine mount/fuel pump interference
>
>
> Today, Jim Render and I were starting to set up for drilling the
> bolts for the engine mount. As I was checking everything to be
> sure all would fit flush to the firewall, I noticed the bolt from
> the fuel pump was hitting the backside of the tube that goes up
> to the nose gear tube.
> It was far enough out that it held the lower mount pads out about
> 1/4". We checked the plans and found that the folks who did
> Jim's QB fuse were right on with the pump bolts locations, as
> best we could tell. To get the clearance for the mount bolts to
> fit up, we had to remove the anchor nut from the firewall and put
> the bolt for the fuel pump through the hole from the firewall side.
>
> We talked to Van's about this and were told that we must be
> mistaken since nobody else had complained about the problem.
> Since I'd already built a RV, I told them that I do know a little
> about building one; and, the problem is there. Anyway, I was
> just curious if anyone has had a problem with this. It's either
> a bad design that needs fixing; or, somebody messed up when the
> fuse was built. I'm betting on the design error. What we did
> will work just fine; but, it's another thing that we've found
> wrong with the QB.
>
> Jim Sears in KY
> RV-6A N198JS
> EAA Tech Counselor
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: First Flight |
Did you use Tech counselor and Flight Advisor? Do you have a good quality
picture (150 dpi, but 300 dpi is better) I can publish?
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: <MStudio828(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Fwd: First Flight
>
>
> From: MStudio828(at)aol.com
> Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 13:39:11 EST
> Subject: First Flight
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Sunday, November 3, 2002, 6:45 am
> I sit looking down the runway. It has been 3 years in the making. It has
been
> a labor of love.
> I sit alone in the cockpit. The radio is silent. The engine purr's.
> The instruments are all in the green. The run-up and taxi test in the
past.
> I have a flight plan, but my mind only sees the runway ahead and the sky
> above.
> I ignore some fear in my head, the lump in my throat, butterflies in the
> stomach and shaky knees.
> Finally I advance the throttle, the engine growls, I'm moving, gaining
speed.
> Check RPM, is this right? Keep going. Keep going. Lift the tail up,
gaining
> speed. Keep going?
> Check instruments, eyes back to the run way. Correct for drift. Keep
going.
> And Liftoff. She is flying, she's really flying. Ahhhhhh! Its flying, boy
is
> she flying, I zoom past my intended altitude, no matter, it flies!
>
> Many thanks to all on the list. It has been an invaluable resource,
> inspiration and sometimes entertaining.
>
> Larry Mcconnell
> Phoenix, Arizona
> RV-8 #81195 slow build
> 0-360-A2A
> Sensenich metal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-8 Exhaust For Sale |
Posted for a Friend with a Skybolt. They are replacing the engine and the new
sump does not allow the current exhaust to fit. The exhaust is a Veterman crossover
system for an RV-8 with IO-360. It is in perfect shape with 60 hours on
it. No heat muffs. First $500 take it. Contact Todd Millard off list todd(at)planetdiscover.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Woodhouse <chrisw3(at)cox.net> |
I was wondering what other people are doing for wheel size on their RV's
are they using the standard size that vans recommends or some other
bigger or smaller size and why?
--
Chris Woodhouse
3147 SW 127th St.
Oklahoma City, OK 73170
405-691-5206 (home)
chrisw(at)programmer.net
N35 20.492'
W97 34.342'
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Woodhouse <chrisw3(at)cox.net> |
I was wondering what other people are doing for wheel size on their RV's
are they using the standard size that vans recommends or some other
bigger or smaller size and why?
--
Chris Woodhouse
3147 SW 127th St.
Oklahoma City, OK 73170
405-691-5206 (home)
chrisw(at)programmer.net
N35 20.492'
W97 34.342'
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Any experience with Rondure Company |
| From: | Michael Stephan <mstephan(at)shr.net> |
I know the man who runs it.
Stan Shannon is his name. he is the current president of the SouthWest
Regional Fly-In. He has built an RV-6 and is now building an RV-9. He
sells the same props as Van does as far as I know. I have not purchased a
prop from him since he does not sell constant speed props. But, he is a
nice guy and you should not have any trouble. Give 'em a call.
--
Michael Stephan
EAA Chapter 168
RV-8 builder
> From: dmedema(at)att.net
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2002 18:03:55 +0000
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Any experience with Rondure Company
>
>
> I'm ready to order my propeller and have decided on the
> Sensenich fixed pitch. They are $1815 from Van's and
> get drop shipped from the factory. I picked up on another
> supplier -- Rondure Company -- off Doug Reeve's website.
> They are offering the prop for $1660 which is quite a
> savings.
>
> Has anyone had any experience with this company? You
> have to send in your money up-front (can't use a charge
> card) which always makes me a little nervous.
>
> I would appreciate any feedback on this company. Their
> website is www.kitplaneparts.com.
>
> Thanks,
> Doug Medema
> RV-6A #21140 N276DM (reserved) getting close!
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)bvd.cso.atmel.com> |
"vansairforce"
| Subject: | Airtech Wintip Lens Kit... |
Does anyone out there have part of an airtech lens kit that they can part with?
I just need the fiberglass part, I just need one, and it doesn't have to be
perfect... I need one to work on the development of my landing light kit for
those tips!
Thanks!
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A ~ 74 hours
www.vondane.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Any experience with Rondure Company |
I called up Stan Shannon and talked to him about what was
included with the prop. He told me it included the spacer
and the prop bolts -- just like Van's. I also got a couple
of emails from people who have known Stan for quite some
time with no indications of any trouble. It seems to be
an easy way to save $150, kind of like buying some of my
avionics from John Stark which worked out great. I am
going to go for it and will update the list when I get my
prop.
Doug Medema
RV-6A #21140 N276DM (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary & Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)direcpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Any experience with Rondure Company |
I purchased my Sensenich from Stan back in 98. He was a good guy to do
business with. I rate him A++++
Gary
Michael Stephan wrote:
>
> I know the man who runs it.
>
> Stan Shannon is his name. he is the current president of the SouthWest
> Regional Fly-In. He has built an RV-6 and is now building an RV-9. He
> sells the same props as Van does as far as I know. I have not purchased a
> prop from him since he does not sell constant speed props. But, he is a
> nice guy and you should not have any trouble. Give 'em a call.
>
> --
> Michael Stephan
> EAA Chapter 168
> RV-8 builder
>
> > From: dmedema(at)att.net
> > Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2002 18:03:55 +0000
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV-List: Any experience with Rondure Company
> >
> >
> > I'm ready to order my propeller and have decided on the
> > Sensenich fixed pitch. They are $1815 from Van's and
> > get drop shipped from the factory. I picked up on another
> > supplier -- Rondure Company -- off Doug Reeve's website.
> > They are offering the prop for $1660 which is quite a
> > savings.
> >
> > Has anyone had any experience with this company? You
> > have to send in your money up-front (can't use a charge
> > card) which always makes me a little nervous.
> >
> > I would appreciate any feedback on this company. Their
> > website is www.kitplaneparts.com.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Doug Medema
> > RV-6A #21140 N276DM (reserved) getting close!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tchoug <tchoug(at)micron.com> |
| Subject: | Impulse mag with electronic ignition |
For those that have a single lightspeed (or other) electronic iginition, do
you run an impulse mag for the second ignition or a non-impulse. If you
could always start on the electronic, it would seem the impulse mag would
not be needed. However, it might be nice to have impulse mag for low battery
starting or even for cold weather starting using both systems (I live in
Minnesota where we have a little different defintiion of cold!).
Thanks,
Todd Houg
RV9A - Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9A engine mount/fuel pump interference |
Jim,
I was just looking at that exact problem the other day on the RV-9A QB that
I'm working on. I hadn't had a chance to bring it up to the guys at Van's
yet though.
Mike Robertson
>From: "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: RV-9A engine mount/fuel pump interference
>Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 14:13:20 -0500
>
>
>Today, Jim Render and I were starting to set up for drilling the bolts for
>the engine mount. As I was checking everything to be sure all would fit
>flush to the firewall, I noticed the bolt from the fuel pump was hitting
>the backside of the tube that goes up to the nose gear tube.
>It was far enough out that it held the lower mount pads out about 1/4". We
>checked the plans and found that the folks who did Jim's QB fuse were right
>on with the pump bolts locations, as best we could tell. To get the
>clearance for the mount bolts to fit up, we had to remove the anchor nut
>from the firewall and put the bolt for the fuel pump through the hole from
>the firewall side.
>
>We talked to Van's about this and were told that we must be mistaken since
>nobody else had complained about the problem. Since I'd already built a
>RV, I told them that I do know a little about building one; and, the
>problem is there. Anyway, I was just curious if anyone has had a problem
>with this. It's either a bad design that needs fixing; or, somebody messed
>up when the fuse was built. I'm betting on the design error. What we did
>will work just fine; but, it's another thing that we've found wrong with
>the QB.
>
>Jim Sears in KY
>RV-6A N198JS
>EAA Tech Counselor
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Impulse mag with electronic ignition |
Common practice is to have the impulse mag and the ignition. I start off
the impulse mag, then turn on the advance after the engine is running. This
is with an Electroair Ignition.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "tchoug" <tchoug(at)micron.com>
Subject: RV-List: Impulse mag with electronic ignition
>
> For those that have a single lightspeed (or other) electronic iginition,
do
> you run an impulse mag for the second ignition or a non-impulse. If you
> could always start on the electronic, it would seem the impulse mag would
> not be needed. However, it might be nice to have impulse mag for low
battery
> starting or even for cold weather starting using both systems (I live in
> Minnesota where we have a little different defintiion of cold!).
>
> Thanks,
> Todd Houg
> RV9A - Fuselage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Castellano" <tcastell(at)bestweb.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Airtech Wintip Lens Kit... |
I have a complete unused Van's wingtip lens kit, part number VA-148. Is this
what you
are looking for?
Tony Castellano
tcastell(at)bestweb.net
Hopewell Junction, NY
RV-6
N401TC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)bvd.cso.atmel.com>
Subject: RV-List: Airtech Wintip Lens Kit...
>
> Does anyone out there have part of an airtech lens kit that they can part
with? I just need the fiberglass part, I just need one, and it doesn't have
to be perfect... I need one to work on the development of my landing light
kit for those tips!
>
> Thanks!
>
> -Bill VonDane
> RV-8A ~ 74 hours
> www.vondane.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "H.Ivan Haecker" <baremetl(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Any experience with Rondure Company |
----- Original Message -----
From: <dmedema(at)att.net>
Subject: RV-List: Any experience with Rondure Company
>
> I'm ready to order my propeller and have decided on the
> Sensenich fixed pitch. They are $1815 from Van's and
> get drop shipped from the factory. I picked up on another
> supplier -- Rondure Company -- off Doug Reeve's website.
> They are offering the prop for $1660 which is quite a
> savings.
>
> Has anyone had any experience with this company? You
> have to send in your money up-front (can't use a charge
> card) which always makes me a little nervous.
>
> I would appreciate any feedback on this company. Their
> website is www.kitplaneparts.com.
>
> Thanks,
> Doug Medema
> RV-6A #21140 N276DM (reserved) getting close!
>
> Doug,
Although I have never purchased anything from Stan Shannon, I have known him
for many years, visit his place regularly, and would not hesitate to buy
anything from him. Also, he is president of SWRFI (EAA Southwest Regional
Fly-in) and I doubt he could do that year after year if he had a reputation
for poor business practices. I would, however, make sure that you are
comparing apples to apples as a previous poster stated. If you have any
further questions feel free to e- mail me off-list.
>Ivan Haecker rv-4 850 hrs.
I=======================================================================
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Any experience with Rondure Company |
Doug
I just checked out their web site. They DO allow credit card payments via PayPal.
I occasionally purchase stuff via EBay. I've used PayPal numerous times. It
works very well. I realize that PayPal complicates matters slighltly. It's still
doable.
Charlie Kuss
>
>I'm ready to order my propeller and have decided on the
>Sensenich fixed pitch. They are $1815 from Van's and
>get drop shipped from the factory. I picked up on another
>supplier -- Rondure Company -- off Doug Reeve's website.
>They are offering the prop for $1660 which is quite a
>savings.
>
>Has anyone had any experience with this company? You
>have to send in your money up-front (can't use a charge
>card) which always makes me a little nervous.
>
>I would appreciate any feedback on this company. Their
>website is www.kitplaneparts.com.
>
>Thanks,
>Doug Medema
>RV-6A #21140 N276DM (reserved) getting close!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Impulse mag with electronic ignition |
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
> Is this common practice with the Light Speed Plasma II system? I was
> under the impression that it specifically retarded timing to zero for
> starting...and I assumed it would be the best scenario to start with
> both the electronic ignition and the impulse mag firing. Starting off
> just the mag seems to me like throwing away one of the biggest
> benefits of electronic ignition.
I have impulse mag and Lightspeed. I start the engine using both
simultaneously. It's sort of funny to listen to the spam cans grind
away trying to start, then fire up my electronic ignition RV with no
effort -- instant start.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Impulse mag with electronic ignition |
Sounds like we have the bases covered.
Some have said they start on just the mag.
Others use just the EI.
Tim uses both!
Maybe the question should be does it matter?
Or is there a wrong way to start when
equipped with a mag and EI?
-
Larry Bowen
RV-8 project with one mag and Rose EI
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Lewis
> Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2002 11:53 PM
> To: Dan Checkoway; rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Impulse mag with electronic ignition
>
>
>
> From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
>
> > Is this common practice with the Light Speed Plasma II
> system? I was
> > under the impression that it specifically retarded timing
> to zero for
> > starting...and I assumed it would be the best scenario to
> start with
> > both the electronic ignition and the impulse mag firing.
> Starting off
> > just the mag seems to me like throwing away one of the biggest
> > benefits of electronic ignition.
>
> I have impulse mag and Lightspeed. I start the engine using both
> simultaneously. It's sort of funny to listen to the spam cans grind
> away trying to start, then fire up my electronic ignition RV with no
> effort -- instant start.
>
> Tim
> ******
> Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
> RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99 http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
> ******
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)vondane.com> |
"vansairforce"
| Subject: | Re: SPREADSHEET FOR RV8A W & B |
I worked up a couple more spreadsheets for the -8 and the -6... If I had data
on the -7 and -9, I could do those too...
http://vondane.com/downloads/index.htm
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A ~ 74 hours
www.vondane.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Kevin Horton
Subject: [rv8list] Re: RV-List: SPREADSHEET FOR RV8A W & B
Bill's very nice spreadsheet will also work for the RV-8. Just put
the tail wheel data in the spot where it says nose wheel.
Kevin
> Bill VonDane wrote:
>>
>>Here you go...
>>
>>http://vondane.com/RV8A-W&B.xls
>>
>>-Bill VonDane
>>RV-8A ~ 74 hours
>>www.vondane.com
>>
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: <Dwpetrus(at)aol.com>
>>To:
>>Subject: RV-List: SPREADSHEET FOR RV8A W & B
>>
>>
>>
>>I am looking for a spreadsheet for W & B on a RV8A in Excel format.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>Wayne Petrus
> >RV8A finishing)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Chevy engine Holley carb question |
I don't know how many V6 Chevy guys are on the list, but I thought I
would run this one by you.
I am using the McNeilly meter plate on a 500 cfm holley. In order to use
a Brodix manifold, I had to have it milled down. I am in the process of
making a carb mounting plate.
The fellow that did the machine work, told me that oval track guys mount
the 2 barrel Holley sideways for better fuel distribution.
It sounds like a good idea, when you look inside the manifold and see
how it is set up.
The only draw back I see is the float bowl being sideways, might starve
the lead barrel during high angle of attack.
Any thoughts.
Barry Pote RV9a with a 4.3 Chevy V6 (all aluminum)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)vondane.com> |
They are for the -8A model, and since you have a -8, your center section
probably has rivets installed where these would normally go...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Schreck" <RonSchreck(at)compuserve.com>
Subject: RV-List: Bag 999
Hi Listers,
My RV-8 quickbuild came with a bag of twelve -4 bolts in bag 999 that are
to be inserted into the wing center section where the main gear sockets
would be installed on the A-model. For the life of me, I can't find where
these go. Anyone have a clue?
Ron Schreck
RV-8
Charlotte NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9A engine mount/fuel pump interference |
There was an exchange of messages a few months ago on that subject-I think
using "firewall penetration" in the subject. On mine, I made the doubler
larger and moved the fuel pump location 1" inboard.
Albert Gardner, Yuma, AZ
RV-9A: N872RV
Working on panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ollie Washburn" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: Low #4 temps |
----- Original Message -----
From: Arnold de Brie
Subject: RV-List: FW: Low #4 temps
-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: Arnold de Brie [mailto:ajdbrie(at)interestate.nl]
Verzonden: maandag 4 november 2002 19:21
Aan: Rv-List(at)Matronics. Com (rv-list(at)matronics.com)
Onderwerp: Low #4 temps
Sounds to me like #4 is on lean side of peak EGT.-----Ollie-Central Fl.
When in cruise at 25/25 and I lean to, let's say 10 gph the CHT of #4
drops from 380 to sometimes 245 degrees
EGT also drops but less than the CHT.
Arnold
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ollie Washburn" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Impulse mag with electronic ignition |
I have a O-360 with impulse mag on left and lightspeed on right.Impulse was
already there:i start most of time with both hot and it always starts within 2-3
blades.Of course i live in Fl.where the weather is almost always nice.
Ollie 6A 180hp/cs
----- Original Message -----
From: tchoug
Subject: RV-List: Impulse mag with electronic ignition
For those that have a single lightspeed (or other) electronic iginition, do
you run an impulse mag for the second ignition or a non-impulse. If you
could always start on the electronic, it would seem the impulse mag would
not be needed. However, it might be nice to have impulse mag for low battery
starting or even for cold weather starting using both systems (I live in
Minnesota where we have a little different defintiion of cold!).
Thanks,
Todd Houg
RV9A - Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ollie Washburn" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Impulse mag with electronic ignition |
----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Denk
Subject: Re: RV-List: Impulse mag with electronic ignition
Brian---Interesting that you say the mag smooths out idle and taxi.I also have
lightspeed on left and idle speed is 200rpm higher on lightspeed than on mag.When
i first installed the lightspeed i had to readjust the idle rpm.---Ollie
. Having the mag on does smooth out the engine at idle and taxi rpm
settings, but doesn't contribute anything that I can see on the tach at
flight rpm. I can turn off the mag in flight and it's like it was never
there in the first place.
Love the Lightspeed.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
312 hrs.
Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.
http://join.msn.com/?pagefeatures/featuredemail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Austin" <6430(at)axion.net> |
Listers,
I have a LOUD buzz in my slider coming from the skirts..I
think...
Anybody have experience with this ? and what is the fix ?
Any help is much valued.
Austin
Vancouver
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Impulse mag with electronic ignition |
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
I have a (fairly new) Slick with impulse on the left and a Jeff Rose
(Electroair) on the right. Sky Tec starter on O-360 A1A. Normal compression
ratio, and an Odyssey battery.
I can detect no difference in starting on one or the other or both. I have
no primer so it takes a few blades to allow me to "pump".
I routinely start on both, but occasionally start on one or the other to
check it out, usually just before a cross country.
In my 1080 hours of operation, I have had no malfunctions or need to adjust
either system.
Hope this helps,
Denis
> From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 00:28:50 -0500
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Impulse mag with electronic ignition
>
>
> Sounds like we have the bases covered.
> Some have said they start on just the mag.
> Others use just the EI.
> Tim uses both!
>
> Maybe the question should be does it matter?
> Or is there a wrong way to start when
> equipped with a mag and EI?
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> RV-8 project with one mag and Rose EI
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Lewis
>> Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2002 11:53 PM
>> To: Dan Checkoway; rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: Impulse mag with electronic ignition
>>
>>
>>
>> From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
>>
>>> Is this common practice with the Light Speed Plasma II
>> system? I was
>>> under the impression that it specifically retarded timing
>> to zero for
>>> starting...and I assumed it would be the best scenario to
>> start with
>>> both the electronic ignition and the impulse mag firing.
>> Starting off
>>> just the mag seems to me like throwing away one of the biggest
>>> benefits of electronic ignition.
>>
>> I have impulse mag and Lightspeed. I start the engine using both
>> simultaneously. It's sort of funny to listen to the spam cans grind
>> away trying to start, then fire up my electronic ignition RV with no
>> effort -- instant start.
>>
>> Tim
>> ******
>> Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
>> RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99 http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
>> ******
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Compton" <rdcompton(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Impulse mag with electronic ignition |
I've also got an impulse mag (Slick) on the left with my Lightspeed on the
right. While having a mechanical way to start in the event of a dead
battery, it takes a REALLY dead battery for the Lightspeed to have enough
juice to work.
I went with a mag primarily for safety. In the event I need to totally
shutdown the electrical system, say in the event of a electrical fire, I
will still have a way to power the engine as I land ASAP, and not be forced
to land deadstick. Granted this is a remote possibility, but I also wear my
chute each time I fly. Just another option if all is not going well.
Randy Compton
RV-3 N84VF
Gulf Breeze, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: First Flight |
Larry,
CONGRATULATIONS & WELL DONE !!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: MStudio828(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Fwd: First Flight
>Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 15:40:03 EST
>
>
>From: MStudio828(at)aol.com
>Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 13:39:11 EST
>Subject: First Flight
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>
>Sunday, November 3, 2002, 6:45 am
>I sit looking down the runway. It has been 3 years in the making. It has
>been
>a labor of love.
>I sit alone in the cockpit. The radio is silent. The engine purr's.
>The instruments are all in the green. The run-up and taxi test in the past.
>I have a flight plan, but my mind only sees the runway ahead and the sky
>above.
>I ignore some fear in my head, the lump in my throat, butterflies in the
>stomach and shaky knees.
>Finally I advance the throttle, the engine growls, I'm moving, gaining
>speed.
>Check RPM, is this right? Keep going. Keep going. Lift the tail up, gaining
>speed. Keep going?
>Check instruments, eyes back to the run way. Correct for drift. Keep going.
>And Liftoff. She is flying, she's really flying. Ahhhhhh! Its flying, boy
>is
>she flying, I zoom past my intended altitude, no matter, it flies!
>
> Many thanks to all on the list. It has been an invaluable resource,
>inspiration and sometimes entertaining.
>
>Larry Mcconnell
>Phoenix, Arizona
>RV-8 #81195 slow build
>0-360-A2A
>Sensenich metal
>
>
MSN 8 helps eliminate e-mail viruses. Get 2 months FREE*.
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Austin,
I vaguely remember a vibration form our skirt. We installed some felt
weatherstrip with two sided tape and it cured the problem.
Good Flying,
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "Austin" <6430(at)axion.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "rv-list rv-list"
>Subject: RV-List: Canopy Buzz
>Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 08:21:52 -0800
>
>
>Listers,
> I have a LOUD buzz in my slider coming from the skirts..I
>think...
>Anybody have experience with this ? and what is the fix ?
>Any help is much valued.
>Austin
>Vancouver
>
>
The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE*
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
ALL,
An 8/8A drivers, with an IO-360 & left rear baffle mounted oil cooler, not
seeing lowere temps?
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "Dane Sheahen" <dane(at)mutualace.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Low #4 temps
>Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 11:27:46 -0600
>
>
>I also have an RV8a with a Lycoming IO-360-C1E6 (converted to A series
>sump)
>with the same cool #4 cylinder. My oil cooler is right behind it on the
>baffling. I mentioned this to Dick Martin and I believe he said his #4 was
>cooler also. Should we be alarmed? I don't know.
>
>????????????
>RV8a?
>
>
>I have a RV8 flying in the Netherlands with a Lycoming IO360 C1E6
>
>My #4 cilinder has significantly lower CHT and EGT
>
>The engine sounds OK and when cold all temperatures are the same so I
>think I can rule out faultly sensors.
>
>Can anyone tell me what things I have to check??
>
>Thanks
>
>Arnold de Brie
>
>I have he oilcooler at the firewall and a hose from the rear baffle at
>#4
>
>When in cruise at 25/25 and I lean to, let's say 10 gph the CHT of #4
>drops from 380 to sometimes 245 degrees
>
>EGT also drops but less than the CHT.
>
>Arnold
>
>
MSN 8 helps eliminate e-mail viruses. Get 2 months FREE*.
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Ingram <Ingram(at)SpringfieldElectric.com> |
| Subject: | Extending the instrument panel |
I am in the process of laying out my instrument panel and considering
increasing the total height of the panel by extending the lower edge. I know
this has been done before, but, how much is "TOO" much. I would like to
lower it by 2 1/4" beyond the stock panel to be able to put the engine
instruments below the flight instruments instead of to the far right like
most. Is this too much or will the panel become a Knee-Knocker?
Thanks for the help!
Ron Ingram
RV6A with Tip-Up
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
Just to let the list know......someone has been using my email address to send
viruses and internet trash. A few people on the list have gotten such emails
with my address on them. I have even gotten a couple myself.
I am not sending these, and if you recieve unsolicited emails from my address which
have attachments, delete them, and make sure your anti-virus software is
protecting you.
If I contact you via email, I will not send attachments, unless on later emails
I let you know to expect them. I don't know what else to do about this.
I have also gotten one or two from addresses that sound like they came from other
RV list members.
Gary
---
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
| Subject: | RV-9A engine mount/fuel pump interference |
Jim......this interference of the motor mount with the aux fuel pump nutplate is
standard proceedure on -9A's. Kevin Shannon alerted me to it, and he and I
just ground down the nutplate enough to clear.
You must have talked to someone at Van's who hasn't been in the loop on this one.
I considered locating the electric pump to try to eliminate the problem, but decided
it would work better where it is. Your solution sounds just as good, rather
than grinding the nutplate.
Also, the plans tell you to cut a big hole in the firewall to allow the nosegear
retaining bolt to clear. No need. Kevin and I just made a stylish dent in
the firewall with a mushroom set in the rivet gun. Doesn't take much, and you
can insert the bolt from the top.
Gary
From: "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV-9A engine mount/fuel pump interference
Today, Jim Render and I were starting to set up for drilling the bolts for the
engine mount. As I was checking everything to be sure all would fit flush to
the firewall, I noticed the bolt from the fuel pump was hitting the backside of
the tube that goes up to the nose gear tube.
It was far enough out that it held the lower mount pads out about 1/4". We checked
the plans and found that the folks who did Jim's QB fuse were right on with
the pump bolts locations, as best we could tell. To get the clearance for
the mount bolts to fit up, we had to remove the anchor nut from the firewall and
put the bolt for the fuel pump through the hole from the firewall side.
We talked to Van's about this and were told that we must be mistaken since nobody
else had complained about the problem. Since I'd already built a RV, I told
them that I do know a little about building one; and, the problem is there.
Anyway, I was just curious if anyone has had a problem with this. It's either
a bad design that needs fixing; or, somebody messed up when the fuse was built.
I'm betting on the design error. What we did will work just fine; but, it's
another thing that we've found wrong with the QB.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
EAA Tech Counselor
---
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Alternator Output |
| From: | Gary Graham <beeb(at)teleport.com> |
Limited output from the Van's supplied 35 amp kit.
Do you have anodized mounting hardware ? (at one time this was supplied in
the kit and it may not have changed)
From a previous post I sent explaining limited output from a known good
alternator:
1. The mounting bracket is anodized (Blue on this one) and is a near perfect
insulator. Except for minor scratches, produced when bolting the bracket to
the engine and bolting the alternator to the bracket, it provides Zero
ground return. The frame of the alternator is the big current ground return
and Must be grounded to the engine as is the starter motor. The minor
scratches soon corrode and become insulators. I chose to run a heavy (#6)
ground strap from the frame of the alternator to the frame of the starter
using plated aviation grade connectors with 5/16ths holes clamped by the
respective pivot and mounting bolts. I could have removed the bracket and
removed an appropriate amount of anodizing from it; alodined and or coated
with silicone grease; and then remounted and safetied, but the ground strap
was easier and a more resilient method, in my opinion.
Hope this is a clue to the problem,
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
I am not sure but here is my best guess. The oil
cooler being next to the #4 cylinder is doing two
things in my opinion for this subject. 1st thing is
the naca scoop you have added to get air to the cooler
may be leaking a bit to allow a little more blast of
air to get to that cylinder. 2nd I am purely guessing
because without seeing your installation it is
impossible for me to tell but if the oil cooler and
associated mounting brackets are real close to the
cylinder it might be acting like a heat sink and be
pulling the heat from the #4 cylinder. Again I am just
guessing.
Glenn Williams
A&P
Fort Worth, Tx.
--- Charles Rowbotham wrote:
>
>
> ALL,
>
> An 8/8A drivers, with an IO-360 & left rear baffle
> mounted oil cooler, not
> seeing lowere temps?
>
> Chuck Rowbotham
> RV-8A
>
>
> >From: "Dane Sheahen" <dane(at)mutualace.com>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To:
> >Subject: RE: RV-List: Low #4 temps
> >Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 11:27:46 -0600
> >
>
> >
> >
> >I also have an RV8a with a Lycoming IO-360-C1E6
> (converted to A series
> >sump)
> >with the same cool #4 cylinder. My oil cooler is
> right behind it on the
> >baffling. I mentioned this to Dick Martin and I
> believe he said his #4 was
> >cooler also. Should we be alarmed? I don't know.
> >
> >????????????
> >RV8a?
> >
> >
> >I have a RV8 flying in the Netherlands with a
> Lycoming IO360 C1E6
> >
> >My #4 cilinder has significantly lower CHT and EGT
> >
> >The engine sounds OK and when cold all temperatures
> are the same so I
> >think I can rule out faultly sensors.
> >
> >Can anyone tell me what things I have to check??
> >
> >Thanks
> >
> >Arnold de Brie
> >
> >I have he oilcooler at the firewall and a hose from
> the rear baffle at
> >#4
> >
> >When in cruise at 25/25 and I lean to, let's say
> 10 gph the CHT of #4
> >drops from 380 to sometimes 245 degrees
> >
> >EGT also drops but less than the CHT.
> >
> >Arnold
> >
> >
>
>
> MSN 8 helps eliminate e-mail viruses. Get 2 months
> FREE*.
> http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus
>
>
>
> Month --
> Gifts!)
> Click on the Contribution
> Terrific Free Gifts!
> Dralle, List Admin.
> _->
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
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>
>
>
>
>
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
Check the fit from your skirt to the fuselage skin. If
there is a "gap" and high speed air gets under the
skirt it is gonna buzz. We have had this same problem
on Learjet 45 models. Our fix is to rework the
fiberglass/composite fairings untill they are as tight
as we can get them up against the metal. I would
suggest if you have a gap to add a piece of fiberglass
strip to close the gap. If no gap is visible I would
add a piece of felt or some other dampening material
to stop the buzz. If your plane is painted you should
be able to tell where the buzz in the skirt is
touching the paint as it will be matte in appearance
where it is fluttering. hope this helps.
Glenn Williams
A&P
Fort Worth, Tx.
--- Austin <6430(at)axion.net> wrote:
> <6430(at)axion.net>
>
> Listers,
> I have a LOUD buzz in my slider
> coming from the skirts..I
> think...
> Anybody have experience with this ? and what is the
> fix ?
> Any help is much valued.
> Austin
> Vancouver
>
>
>
> Month --
> Gifts!)
> Click on the Contribution
> Terrific Free Gifts!
> Dralle, List Admin.
> _->
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Extending the instrument panel |
Ron,
Van's has a panel "OVSZ) that is about 2" deeper than the stock version.
I have that panel by exchanging the stock panel. Though I have not flown
yet I believe that it will not be a problem. I have seen panels with a
2" or so subpanel attached below the stock panel on flying 6 & 6A'.
For what it's worth. You'll want opinions from others with deeper panels
who are flying.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
Ron Ingram wrote:
>
>
> I am in the process of laying out my instrument panel and considering
> increasing the total height of the panel by extending the lower edge. I know
> this has been done before, but, how much is "TOO" much. I would like to
> lower it by 2 1/4" beyond the stock panel to be able to put the engine
> instruments below the flight instruments instead of to the far right like
> most. Is this too much or will the panel become a Knee-Knocker?
>
> Thanks for the help!
> Ron Ingram
> RV6A with Tip-Up
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Galati" <rick07x(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Extending the Instrument Panel |
Ron,
You may find it interesting to note that Van's sells the oversize
instrument panel for the 6. I bought one some months ago, the price was in the
area of $45 or so. It extends down an additional 2.2 inches. I asked them about
it after I went to the Panel Planner website and was able to select an oversize
panel template for the 6. That extra room sure gives you a lot more
options. The folks at Van's said "Oh yes, we have the oversize panel, we
just don't advertise it". I am 5'10" and knee room is no problem at all
for me with this panel. You will find it by going to Van's
website and scrolling through "the list". Rick
Galati
--- rick07x(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Impulse mag with electronic ignition |
I used the impulse on the left and elec on right for the reason you
mentioned.
Ross Mickey
----- Original Message -----
From: "tchoug" <tchoug(at)micron.com>
Subject: RV-List: Impulse mag with electronic ignition
>
> For those that have a single lightspeed (or other) electronic iginition,
do
> you run an impulse mag for the second ignition or a non-impulse. If you
> could always start on the electronic, it would seem the impulse mag would
> not be needed. However, it might be nice to have impulse mag for low
battery
> starting or even for cold weather starting using both systems (I live in
> Minnesota where we have a little different defintiion of cold!).
>
> Thanks,
> Todd Houg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Extending the instrument panel |
In a message dated 11/6/02 1:19:26 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Ingram(at)SpringfieldElectric.com writes:
> I am in the process of laying out my instrument panel and considering
> increasing the total height of the panel by extending the lower edge. I
> know
> this has been done before, but, how much is "TOO" much. I would like to
> lower it by 2 1/4" beyond the stock panel to be able to put the engine
> instruments below the flight instruments instead of to the far right like
> most. Is this too much or will the panel become a Knee-Knocker?
>
I thought about doing the same thing but ended up making a vertical center
console panel since the bottom edge of the panel extended down would cause
trouble getting in and out of the aircraft (RV-6A)
Scott Morrow
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Impulse mag with electronic ignition-controversy!!! |
Below is a reprint of an earlier response to this issue. Based on Hartzells
comments, I have placarded my O360/CS Prop RV6A with-----Avoid continuous
operation above 2600 rpm
Ross Mickey
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Attached is a document which will help to clarify our position on operating
your Hartzell Propeller with the lightspeed ignition system. I hope this
helps you determine how you want to operate your aircraft.
Best Regards,
Brad Huelsman
The Hartzell Propeller Model HC-C2YK-1BF/F7666A-2 has been vibrationally
approved per FAR23.907 on the standard production Lycoming Engine Model
O-360-A1A, and similar models, rated at 180 HP at 2700 RPM with a
restriction to avoid continuous operation between 2000 and 2250 RPM. The
propeller vibration characteristics and stress amplitudes on a reciprocating
engine installation are primarily mechanically generated by the engine. Any
modification to the standard engine configuration to include high
compression pistons, electronic ignition, FADEC, tuned induction and
exhaust, and turbocharging or turbonormalizing have the potential to
adversely effect the propeller vibration characteristics and stress
amplitudes. Hartzell Propeller, therefore, does not endorse any such engine
modification unless the specific engine and propeller configurations have
been tested and found to be acceptable vibrationwise.
The Lightspeed electronic ignition is not certified for use on any aircraft
engines so its use is limited to the experimental/amateur built market.
Hartzell recently conducted a test with the propeller model
HC-C2YK-1BF/F7666A-2 installed on a standard Lycoming O-360-A1A engine,
except for a modification to equip it with the Lightspeed ignition in place
of one magneto. The results of this test show an increase in the propeller
vibratory stress amplitudes within the 2000-2250 RPM range currently covered
by the operating restriction noted in the first paragraph, and additionally
above 2600 RPM with high power settings. Based on this data, continued safe
use of this propeller on O-360-A1A and similar engines equipped with
Lightspeed electronic ignition would require the following:
1. Continuation of the current restriction to avoid continuous
operation between 2000 and 2250 RPM.
2. An additional restriction to limit operations above 2600 RPM to
takeoff. As soon as practical after takeoff the RPM should be reduced to
2600 or below.
3. The propeller blades are life limited to 20,000 hours of
operation.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Impulse mag with electronic ignition-controversy!!!
>
> The "EI overstressing the prop" hypothesis was started by the accident
board
> investigating the Aussie crash of an RV with a 4-cyl. engine, electronic
> ignition and a fixed-pitch metal prop. The theory being that the
increased
> ignition efficiency of the EI caused larger-than-normal power pulses
during the
> compression stroke(s) resulting in increased vibrations to the prop and
> subsequent failure of a prop blade. Hartzell and Sensenich have jumped on
this
> as a liability issue and have issued disclaimers against the use of items
or
> procedures that would increase the combustion effinciency/power of a
normally
> aspirated "stock" aircraft engine when using one of their fixed-pitch
metal
> props. Thus the warnings against electronic ignitions including FADEC.
>
> Draw your own conclusions.
>
> Boyd.
>
> Knicholas2(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> >
> > I was talking to an EAA tech counselor last night when he inspected my
RV9A
> > fuse and wings. (He thought I am doing a great job, by the way...) I
asked
> > about electronic ignition and he mentioned a report about the
electtronic
> > systems being responsible for over-stressing the props. What is the
current
> > thinking?
> >
> > Kim Nicholas
> > ...just stirring the pot...
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Alternator Output |
Gary has the right answer to your problem. Being a retired electrical type,
I recognized that the anodized bracket would not provide a good ground to
the alternator when I installed it. My engine is an 0-320 E2D (160 HP) and I
used a 3/4" wide x 1/16 thk strap of copper connecting the front alternator
mt. bolt straight to one of the bolts holding the Bendix cover on the
starter, right next door and in line.-- "No problema"!
Cheers!!--- Henry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Keith Vasey/Galvin Flying Svc" <keith(at)galvinflying.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder Pedals & Truck-bed Liners |
I was getting ready to paint - or powder coat - or chrome - my rudderpedals
prior to installation and it hit me that it might be slick to apply the
spray-on truck bed liner as a finish coat. I talked with the local "Rhino
Liner" and "Line-X" guys and they can do it in just about any color.
Has anyone done this to rudder pedals (or any other cockpit surface)?
Keith Vasey
RV-8
Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Extending the instrument panel |
Ron,
I extended my panel a couple of inches and ended up at 12 1/4" deep at the
centerline of the panel...this to accomodate the UPSAT stack that is 11"
high. No problems for me getting in and out and I am 6' 1". Even working
under the panel is not a problem although it does restrict your body
somewhat when you have to go head first. Check it out at:
http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-pathatch
Pat Hatch
RV-4, N17PH, 700 hrs
O-320, Hartzell C/S
RV-6, N44PH, 35 hrs
O-360, Hartzell C/S
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Ingram" <Ingram(at)SpringfieldElectric.com>
Subject: RV-List: Extending the instrument panel
>
> I am in the process of laying out my instrument panel and considering
> increasing the total height of the panel by extending the lower edge. I
know
> this has been done before, but, how much is "TOO" much. I would like to
> lower it by 2 1/4" beyond the stock panel to be able to put the engine
> instruments below the flight instruments instead of to the far right like
> most. Is this too much or will the panel become a Knee-Knocker?
>
> Thanks for the help!
> Ron Ingram
> RV6A with Tip-Up
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Pedals & Truck-bed Liners |
>
>
>I was getting ready to paint - or powder coat - or chrome - my rudderpedals
>prior to installation and it hit me that it might be slick to apply the
>spray-on truck bed liner as a finish coat. I talked with the local "Rhino
>Liner" and "Line-X" guys and they can do it in just about any color.
>
>Has anyone done this to rudder pedals (or any other cockpit surface)?
>
>Keith Vasey
>RV-8
>Seattle
Oh man! What a cool idea! Never thought about doing such a thing. A buddy
of mine just bought a new pickup and had a Rhino type of lining sprayed into
the bed. It's tough as nails and looks terrific. As long as the thickness
of the material doesn't interfere with the various bolts and nuts holding
the pedals to the assembly, I don't see why it couldn't be done.
My pedals are simply primed in the same grey Marhyde as the rest of my
interior. It's wearing off where my shoes contact them the most. A black
powder coat, anodize or coating like you suggest would probably show the
least wear over time versus paint.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
312 hrs.
The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE*
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Pedals & Truck-bed Liners |
Isn't that stuff relatively porous? Personally I think anodizing looks the
best, can be had in your choice of colors, and is VERY durable. My canopy
slide rails are anodized black and have yet to show any wear.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 174 hrs.
Vancouver, WA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Vasey/Galvin Flying Svc" <keith(at)galvinflying.com>
Subject: RV-List: Rudder Pedals & Truck-bed Liners
>
> I was getting ready to paint - or powder coat - or chrome - my
rudderpedals
> prior to installation and it hit me that it might be slick to apply the
> spray-on truck bed liner as a finish coat. I talked with the local "Rhino
> Liner" and "Line-X" guys and they can do it in just about any color.
>
> Has anyone done this to rudder pedals (or any other cockpit surface)?
>
> Keith Vasey
> RV-8
> Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Extending the instrument panel |
>
> I am in the process of laying out my instrument panel and
> considering increasing the total height of the panel by
> extending the lower edge. I know this has been done before,
> but, how much is "TOO" much. I would like to lower it by 2
> 1/4" beyond the stock panel to be able to put the engine
> instruments below the flight instruments instead of to the
> far right like most. Is this too much or will the panel
> become a Knee-Knocker?
Ron, this is not necessarily a direct answer to your question, but
something to consider in your panel layout, particularly if you extend
the lower section. Try to avoid having toggle switches where your knees
can hit them getting in and out. While I'm quite happy with the
ergonomics of my panel layout, I did accidentally turn the master back
on when exiting my plane during some of the early flights. My panel is
not extended lower, except in the middle where the engine control stuff
is. Click on the link below and then click on "panel". The master
switch is the first switch to the right of the keyed ignition switch.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 222 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9A engine mount/fuel pump interference |
> Jim......this interference of the motor mount with the aux fuel pump
nutplate is standard >proceedure on -9A's. Kevin Shannon alerted me to it,
and he and I just ground down >the nutplate enough to clear.
>
> You must have talked to someone at Van's who hasn't been in the loop on
this one.
>
It was Tom Green, the plant manager. I'd say he's in the loop. I thought
the problem was a standard proceedure thing. I've been there and done that
kind of thing before. As for grinding away the anchor nut, we did look at
that option. I didn't think we had enough clearance to make for a safe
application; so, I opted to get rid of the anchor nut.
We have plenty of room for the bolt head and a wrench. That's it, though.
As for the hint on the nose gear bolt, I may look into that one. I'm about
to drill the engine mount and have already put the bolt in upside down. I
may actually have to read the instructions. :-) I don't plan on doing the
dent thing; but, that would make for a better way of getting that bolt out
for maintenance than removing the engine mount bolts.
I won't even think about cutting a hole in the firewall, thankyouverymuch.
It's not my airplane. :-)
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
EAA Tech Counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Keith Vasey/Galvin Flying Svc" <keith(at)galvinflying.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder Pedals & Truck-bed Liners |
That's a good idea. I could probably find a place around Boeing Field to get
that done. Is anodizing a pricey process?
Keith.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy Lervold
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rudder Pedals & Truck-bed Liners
Isn't that stuff relatively porous? Personally I think anodizing looks the
best, can be had in your choice of colors, and is VERY durable. My canopy
slide rails are anodized black and have yet to show any wear.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 174 hrs.
Vancouver, WA
> I was getting ready to paint - or powder coat - or chrome - my
rudderpedals
> prior to installation and it hit me that it might be slick to apply the
> spray-on truck bed liner as a finish coat. I talked with the local "Rhino
> Liner" and "Line-X" guys and they can do it in just about any color.
>
> Has anyone done this to rudder pedals (or any other cockpit surface)?
>
> Keith Vasey
> RV-8
> Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Extending the instrument panel |
I'd try to avoid extending if you can. I'm only 5'10" and my knees almost
hit the panel of my friend's RV-6A that has about a 1.5" panel extending
down. If you are creative, you can get alot in a stock panel.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Ingram" <Ingram(at)SpringfieldElectric.com>
Subject: RV-List: Extending the instrument panel
>
> I am in the process of laying out my instrument panel and considering
> increasing the total height of the panel by extending the lower edge. I
know
> this has been done before, but, how much is "TOO" much. I would like to
> lower it by 2 1/4" beyond the stock panel to be able to put the engine
> instruments below the flight instruments instead of to the far right like
> most. Is this too much or will the panel become a Knee-Knocker?
>
> Thanks for the help!
> Ron Ingram
> RV6A with Tip-Up
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Pedals & Truck-bed Liners |
That's an excellent idea. Wish I had thought of that about 2 years ago...
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Vasey/Galvin Flying Svc" <keith(at)galvinflying.com>
Subject: RV-List: Rudder Pedals & Truck-bed Liners
>
> I was getting ready to paint - or powder coat - or chrome - my
rudderpedals
> prior to installation and it hit me that it might be slick to apply the
> spray-on truck bed liner as a finish coat. I talked with the local "Rhino
> Liner" and "Line-X" guys and they can do it in just about any color.
>
> Has anyone done this to rudder pedals (or any other cockpit surface)?
>
> Keith Vasey
> RV-8
> Seattle
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Pos light colors |
My position lights from Van's arrived today. I'm surprised at the
colors. I expected red and green, of course. These look more like
orange and blue. Do I have the right ones? Check them out here:
http://bowenaero.com/pix/pos.jpg
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Scott <rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Pedals & Truck-bed Liners |
Does the stuff burn?
Richard Scott
At 01:52 PM 11/6/02, you wrote:
>
>
>I was getting ready to paint - or powder coat - or chrome - my rudderpedals
>prior to installation and it hit me that it might be slick to apply the
>spray-on truck bed liner as a finish coat. I talked with the local "Rhino
>Liner" and "Line-X" guys and they can do it in just about any color.
>
>Has anyone done this to rudder pedals (or any other cockpit surface)?
>
>Keith Vasey
>RV-8
>Seattle
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Pos light colors |
Light 'em up and they look normal. Aviation RED and Aviation GREEN. They
are designed to appear the correct colors when viewed at night.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Manager
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Bowen [mailto:Larry(at)bowenaero.com]
Subject: RV-List: Pos light colors
My position lights from Van's arrived today. I'm surprised at the
colors. I expected red and green, of course. These look more like
orange and blue. Do I have the right ones? Check them out here:
http://bowenaero.com/pix/pos.jpg
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Pedals & Truck-bed Liners |
Here's another option. I bought some textured rubber wing walk material from
Aircraft Spruce that has an adhesive back. It's black only and I have no
idea how long it will last, but should be fairly easy to replace when worn -
just have a template on file.
I would appreciate hearing from anyone who has done this, concerning
durability.
Bob Trumpfheller
RV7A (N67BT reserved)
Western Colorado
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV7, canopy, tip-up, latch: dimensions needed |
Listers,
While waiting for the sky to clear so that I can prime some parts, I looked through
the canopy installation (for a RV-7 tipup), and found that I am going to
have to drill 14 holes and make two slots in the forward left side skin for the
latch.
Since I still have the skin un rivetted to the fuse, I thought it would be much
easier to do the drilling, slot cutting amd especially the dimpling, now.
I have the preview plans for the finish kit, which show a template to be used for
the placement of the holes and slots, but no dimensions are given.
I tried to ascii this template below:
Top rivet line, side skin to longeron:@ * * * * * *
Middle rivet line, side skin to top angle:# * * * * * *
Two slots: === =======
Lower rivet line, side skin to lower angle: * * * * * * *
What I need is somebody who has the full size drawing already, to please measure
and send me the following dimensions:
- The rivet spacing in the middle and lower rows (7 rivets each, according to
the preview plans)
- The space between the top rivet row and the middle rivet row.
- The horizontal offset between the rivet that is the most forward one in the
top row (left in the drawing, I marked it @) and the forward first rivet in the
middle row (marked #).
Thanks !
Amit.
Help STOP SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE*
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R. Craig Chipley" <mechtech81(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pos light colors |
Larry, Those look ok. Aviation Red and Green have
that tint to them. But when all the photons shoot out
at high speed, they look just right.
Craig C
--- Larry Bowen wrote:
>
>
> My position lights from Van's arrived today. I'm
> surprised at the
> colors. I expected red and green, of course. These
> look more like
> orange and blue. Do I have the right ones? Check
> them out here:
> http://bowenaero.com/pix/pos.jpg
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
>
> Month --
> Gifts!)
> Click on the Contribution
> Terrific Free Gifts!
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> _->
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
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>
>
U2 on LAUNCH - Exclusive greatest hits videos
http://launch.yahoo.com/u2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Extending the instrument panel |
Smcm75(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 11/6/02 1:19:26 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> Ingram(at)SpringfieldElectric.com writes:
>
> > I am in the process of laying out my instrument panel and considering
> > increasing the total height of the panel by extending the lower edge. I
> > know
> > this has been done before, but, how much is "TOO" much. I would like to
> > lower it by 2 1/4" beyond the stock panel to be able to put the engine
> > instruments below the flight instruments instead of to the far right like
> > most. Is this too much or will the panel become a Knee-Knocker?
> >
>
> I thought about doing the same thing but ended up making a vertical center
> console panel since the bottom edge of the panel extended down would cause
> trouble getting in and out of the aircraft (RV-6A)
>
> Scott Morrow
> RV-6A
>
I am 6'3" and extended my panel by almost two inches and do not even come close
to the bottom of the panel. The center console causes more problem in my opinion
by not allowing enough leg room. When doing aerobatics and the need for full control
deflection arises I found it was harder to do with the center console in place.
I removed the narrow stock center console in my RV-6 and like it much better.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Pedals & Truck-bed Liners |
There is a "batch price". You pay a minimum. One part costs the same as a
bunch of them. I think you guys should get together and have both of your
sets done at the same time.
I've seen both Randy's and Mike Robbins black anodized canopy rails and they
are sharp looking. It really dresses up the cockpit...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Vasey/Galvin Flying Svc" <keith(at)galvinflying.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Rudder Pedals & Truck-bed Liners
>
> That's a good idea. I could probably find a place around Boeing Field to
get
> that done. Is anodizing a pricey process?
>
> Keith.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy Lervold
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Rudder Pedals & Truck-bed Liners
>
>
> Isn't that stuff relatively porous? Personally I think anodizing looks the
> best, can be had in your choice of colors, and is VERY durable. My canopy
> slide rails are anodized black and have yet to show any wear.
>
> Randy Lervold
> RV-8, 174 hrs.
> Vancouver, WA
>
> > I was getting ready to paint - or powder coat - or chrome - my
> rudderpedals
> > prior to installation and it hit me that it might be slick to apply the
> > spray-on truck bed liner as a finish coat. I talked with the local
"Rhino
> > Liner" and "Line-X" guys and they can do it in just about any color.
> >
> > Has anyone done this to rudder pedals (or any other cockpit surface)?
> >
> > Keith Vasey
> > RV-8
> > Seattle
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Impulse mag with electronic ignition |
| From: | Michael D Hilger <rvsixer(at)juno.com> |
> I have impulse mag and Lightspeed. I start the engine using both
> simultaneously. It's sort of funny to listen to the spam cans grind
>
> away trying to start, then fire up my electronic ignition RV with no
>
> effort -- instant start.
My O-360 has plain ol' Slick mags and you won't hear my -6 grind
away. I just turn the key - no effort - instant start... I broke enough
new ground just building the airplane. When it came to the engine systems
I chose not to become part of another test program.
Mike Hilger
RV-6, 320 hrs
Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today
Only $9.95 per month!
Visit www.juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mitchf(at)netscape.com (Mitchell Faatz) |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Pedals & Truck-bed Liners |
>
>
>I've seen both Randy's and Mike Robbins black anodized canopy rails and they
>are sharp looking. It really dresses up the cockpit...
>
But if your canopy was open in the sun, don't the black rails make nice
bbq grill marks on your forearm after you get in and hang your left arm
out? Seems like those would really heat up quick on a hot day. Or
doesn't your arm rest on that rail at all?
Mitch Faatz RV-6A Finish Kit San Mateo, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russ Werner" <russ(at)maui.net> |
For anyone interested in building up your own engine, check out the
following page. Great photos and notes of a scratch built engine.
Russ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Curley" <mcurley(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Chevy engine Holley carb question |
Barry,
I would suggest taking a tip from the drag racers who run Holley four barrel carbs
and have a concern with force of acceleration pulling fuel away from the main
jets in the rear float bowl. They use an extension tube over the jet out
to where the fuel is expected to be. In your case you would add the extension
tube in a curved shape to the lower rear of the float bowl. May have to come
up with a way to safety wire or pin together, although the straight extension
tubes are simply a press fit which stays on very well without fasteners.
Mark Curley
I don't know how many V6 Chevy guys are on the list, but I thought I
would run this one by you.
I am using the McNeilly meter plate on a 500 cfm holley. In order to use
a Brodix manifold, I had to have it milled down. I am in the process of
making a carb mounting plate.
The fellow that did the machine work, told me that oval track guys mount
the 2 barrel Holley sideways for better fuel distribution.
It sounds like a good idea, when you look inside the manifold and see
how it is set up.
The only draw back I see is the float bowl being sideways, might starve
the lead barrel during high angle of attack.
Any thoughts.
Barry Pote RV9a with a 4.3 Chevy V6 (all aluminum)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
List, Seems like I heard somewhere that the Wing Tips on the RV6's are prone to
sagging in time? Anyone seen this problem? Is there a fix? I found nothing
in the archives.
Tom in Ohio (Fiberglass City RV6-A)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Tip Sag |
Yep, sag can be a problem with the wingtips, especially if they are painted
a dark color. However, I've never seen an RV where it was objectionable, so
I chose not to address it on my airplane. I'm happy with the decision to
avoid at least one "improvement" that adds weight and time...
There was a thread on the list several years ago on the subject. People who
put in local stiffeners (similar to ribs running in the span direction) saw
puckering between the stiffeners. One fellow epoxied a sheet of foam to the
inside of the top surface, then glassed that in. That seemed to be the only
solution that held real promise.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
Subject: RV-List: Wing Tip Sag
>
> List, Seems like I heard somewhere that the Wing Tips on the RV6's are
prone to sagging in time? Anyone seen this problem? Is there a fix? I found
nothing in the archives.
>
Tom in Ohio (Fiberglass City RV6-A)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Francis Malczynski" <ebbfmm(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Fwd: First Flight |
I know the feeling, a combination of anticipation, anxiety, stress, fear,
determination, satisfaction all rolled into one. Congratulations on your
first flight.
Fran Malczynski
RV6 - N594EF (flight testing slowly, weather not cooperating)
Olcott, NY
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of MStudio828(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Fwd: First Flight
From: MStudio828(at)aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 13:39:11 EST
Subject: First Flight
Sunday, November 3, 2002, 6:45 am
I sit looking down the runway. It has been 3 years in the making. It has
been
a labor of love.
I sit alone in the cockpit. The radio is silent. The engine purr's.
The instruments are all in the green. The run-up and taxi test in the past.
I have a flight plan, but my mind only sees the runway ahead and the sky
above.
I ignore some fear in my head, the lump in my throat, butterflies in the
stomach and shaky knees.
Finally I advance the throttle, the engine growls, I'm moving, gaining
speed.
Check RPM, is this right? Keep going. Keep going. Lift the tail up, gaining
speed. Keep going?
Check instruments, eyes back to the run way. Correct for drift. Keep going.
And Liftoff. She is flying, she's really flying. Ahhhhhh! Its flying, boy is
she flying, I zoom past my intended altitude, no matter, it flies!
Many thanks to all on the list. It has been an invaluable resource,
inspiration and sometimes entertaining.
Larry Mcconnell
Phoenix, Arizona
RV-8 #81195 slow build
0-360-A2A
Sensenich metal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sjhdcl(at)kingston.net |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Pedals & Truck-bed Liners |
I used this product on my rudder pedals (7A) and it works great. Also used it
on a RV6 I helped with and it shows very little sign of wear even after 3
years and over 350 hrs of flight time. I would recommend using the hand paint
on (not spray) and just do the face of the pedal where your foot will be as
well as the inside face of the arm that attaches to the brake actuator.
Don't cover the whole pedal since it will bind the movement of the brakes. As
well if you have the pedals primed remove all the primer (or paint) and rough
up the bare aluminum.
Works perfectly!
Steve
RV7A
Quoting Paul Besing :
>
> That's an excellent idea. Wish I had thought of that about 2 years ago...
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Keith Vasey/Galvin Flying Svc" <keith(at)galvinflying.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Rudder Pedals & Truck-bed Liners
>
>
>
> >
> > I was getting ready to paint - or powder coat - or chrome - my
> rudderpedals
> > prior to installation and it hit me that it might be slick to apply the
> > spray-on truck bed liner as a finish coat. I talked with the local "Rhino
> > Liner" and "Line-X" guys and they can do it in just about any color.
> >
> > Has anyone done this to rudder pedals (or any other cockpit surface)?
> >
> > Keith Vasey
> > RV-8
> > Seattle
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Tip Sag |
Yah the tops of my wingtips are kind of dished out. They were that way when
I won my Outstanding Workmanship award at Oshkosh, and my Champion award at
Arlington.... :-)
That being said, its only the original style that seem to do that; the shape
and/or material used on the newer style "bat-wing" tips hold up a lot
better. Also I've seen quite a few planes where someone tried to do
something about it, and that showed through and made it look even worse.
Stiffeners will create ridges, rectangular pieces of flat foam glassed in
similarly translate unless brought all the way to the edges. I once hefted a
wingtip with foam glassed to the edges -- looked really nice but it was
noticeably heavier.
Not saying not to do it, but from what I've seen doesn't seem worth the
trouble/weight/risk of making it worse.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~400 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Com Antenna Splitter |
I would like to try using one com antenna with two radios but I am concerned
that I might suffer a signal loss. I bought the proper splitter box from Bob
Archer a few years back. He said it is very simular to the Commat one but at
a much better price. Does any one know if I will be suffering a loss in
performance if I go this route?
Thanks,
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Tip Sag |
Are the newer-style wingtips any "faster"? Doubt it would be worth the
effort to remount all those platenuts, but "askin' is free," right?
Thanks to this thread, and especially to Randall's reply, I won't be
undertaking my planned "ripple removal by adding stiffeners" project this
winter.
-Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | List Fund Raiser - What Listers Are Saying... |
Dear Listers,
First, I'd like say *thank you* to everyone that's already made a
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Won't please take a minute and make a Contribution via the SSL secure web
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Email List Administrator
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...very valuable to this builder.
William C.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Garth Shearing" <garth(at)Islandnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Tip Sag |
Has anybody tried heating up the wingtip to remove kinks or whatever? This
would be relatively easy using a temporary tent and heaters, light bulbs,
etc. for heat source. 200 degrees F or more would probably be needed. A
slightly pumped up balloon or bag or other temporary support inside the
wingtip may be required to keep the shape. Otherwise more sags could
develop.
However, once this is done, kinks, sags, etc. would probably come back
anyway if the wingtip is painted a dark colour.
We had to twist one of our RV6A wingtips slightly to get it onto the wing,
causing a kink, so that's why we have the problem.
Garth Shearing
VariEze and 80% RV6A
Victoria BC Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
,
| Subject: | Gear attach web w/tailwheel...to use or not? |
RV-7 tailwheel tip-up
Hey, before I call and bug Van's about this, I figured I'd ask the lists.
Would there be any harm in leaving off the F-7101-L & -R gear attach webs?
Those are pretty hefty relatively speaking, and since I'm building the
tailwheel configuration do I really need them? I don't see how they do
anything structurally (without -7A mains mounted there) other than add
weight.
I guess if somebody wanted to convert to a nose dragger down the line it
makes sense to have 'em in there, but screw that. If I can save the weight,
I'd like to leave them off.
Am I out of my mind?
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (fuselage)
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ross Schlotthauer <rdschlotthauer(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear attach web w/tailwheel...to use or not? |
Dan,
Any man that would convert a perfectly good tail
dragger into a 7A needs to have his head examined, but
you better check with Vans on leaving out the webs.
Let me know what you find
Ross
RV7 Fuse
--- Dan Checkoway wrote:
>
>
> RV-7 tailwheel tip-up
>
> Hey, before I call and bug Van's about this, I
> figured I'd ask the lists.
> Would there be any harm in leaving off the F-7101-L
> & -R gear attach webs?
> Those are pretty hefty relatively speaking, and
> since I'm building the
> tailwheel configuration do I really need them? I
> don't see how they do
> anything structurally (without -7A mains mounted
> there) other than add
> weight.
>
> I guess if somebody wanted to convert to a nose
> dragger down the line it
> makes sense to have 'em in there, but screw that.
> If I can save the weight,
> I'd like to leave them off.
>
> Am I out of my mind?
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D (fuselage)
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
>
> Month --
> Gifts!)
> Click on the Contribution
> Terrific Free Gifts!
> Dralle, List Admin.
> _->
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
U2 on LAUNCH - Exclusive greatest hits videos
http://launch.yahoo.com/u2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear attach web w/tailwheel...to use or not? |
Well, I broke down and called Van's about this. They said that the -7
and -7A used to have different designs in this area, but they ended up
consolidating and going with the F-7101 on both models at some point. He
didn't really say why, but I assume it's to simplify production, drawings,
shipping, etc. I have also seen at least one mention in the instructions
and drawings where it makes provisions for a future conversion...something I
don't have the least bit of interest in.
I asked him if the F-7101 serves a structural purpose, and he said yes.
Ok...I asked what the purpose was, and he said he couldn't tell me that,
he's not one of the engineers.
I didn't push the issue, but I'm not fully convinced that they're necessary.
I'll probably break down and just install 'em. No sense in taking an
unknown risk, although I weighed these suckers, and together they're 1 lb
1/2 oz. That's not exactly feather weight!
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (fuselage)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ross Schlotthauer" <rdschlotthauer(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear attach web w/tailwheel...to use or not?
>
> Dan,
>
> Any man that would convert a perfectly good tail
> dragger into a 7A needs to have his head examined, but
> you better check with Vans on leaving out the webs.
> Let me know what you find
>
> Ross
> RV7 Fuse
>
>
> --- Dan Checkoway wrote:
> >
> >
> > RV-7 tailwheel tip-up
> >
> > Hey, before I call and bug Van's about this, I
> > figured I'd ask the lists.
> > Would there be any harm in leaving off the F-7101-L
> > & -R gear attach webs?
> > Those are pretty hefty relatively speaking, and
> > since I'm building the
> > tailwheel configuration do I really need them? I
> > don't see how they do
> > anything structurally (without -7A mains mounted
> > there) other than add
> > weight.
> >
> > I guess if somebody wanted to convert to a nose
> > dragger down the line it
> > makes sense to have 'em in there, but screw that.
> > If I can save the weight,
> > I'd like to leave them off.
> >
> > Am I out of my mind?
> >
> > )_( Dan
> > RV-7 N714D (fuselage)
> > http://www.rvproject.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Month --
> > Gifts!)
> > Click on the Contribution
> > Terrific Free Gifts!
> > Dralle, List Admin.
> > _->
> > Contributions of
> > any other form
> >
> > latest messages.
> > other List members.
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> > http://www.matronics.com/search
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> U2 on LAUNCH - Exclusive greatest hits videos
> http://launch.yahoo.com/u2
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russ Werner" <russ(at)maui.net> |
Forgot to post the link on the previous post
http://www.bakalar.org/dollmeyer/diary/200205/index.htm
> For anyone interested in building up your own engine, check out the
> following page. Great photos and notes of a scratch built engine.
>
> Russ
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flap motor amps? |
| From: | Don R Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
I blew a 3 amp on my first flight. I put a 5a in & haven't blown it yet.
Don Jordan - RV6A - N6DJ
Arlington, Tx
**************************************************
On Thu, 7 Nov 2002 19:28:56 GMT czechsix(at)juno.com writes:
>
> Anybody know approx how many amps Vans flap motor draws? I know
> it's only an intermittent load, but I'm just curious for fuse and
> relay sizing...
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A N2D finishing...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear attach web w/tailwheel...to use or not? |
Dan: You could put some lightening holes in there to get rid of some of the
weight. But check drawing 34 first for location so you don't compromise
that little angle that goes on there that supports the plate that keeps you
from kicking the fuel lines.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear attach web w/tailwheel...to use or not?
>
> Well, I broke down and called Van's about this. They said that the -7
> and -7A used to have different designs in this area, but they ended up
> consolidating and going with the F-7101 on both models at some point. He
> didn't really say why, but I assume it's to simplify production, drawings,
> shipping, etc. I have also seen at least one mention in the instructions
> and drawings where it makes provisions for a future conversion...something
I
> don't have the least bit of interest in.
>
> I asked him if the F-7101 serves a structural purpose, and he said yes.
> Ok...I asked what the purpose was, and he said he couldn't tell me that,
> he's not one of the engineers.
>
> I didn't push the issue, but I'm not fully convinced that they're
necessary.
> I'll probably break down and just install 'em. No sense in taking an
> unknown risk, although I weighed these suckers, and together they're 1 lb
> 1/2 oz. That's not exactly feather weight!
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D (fuselage)
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ross Schlotthauer" <rdschlotthauer(at)yahoo.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear attach web w/tailwheel...to use or not?
>
>
>
> >
> > Dan,
> >
> > Any man that would convert a perfectly good tail
> > dragger into a 7A needs to have his head examined, but
> > you better check with Vans on leaving out the webs.
> > Let me know what you find
> >
> > Ross
> > RV7 Fuse
> >
> >
> > --- Dan Checkoway wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > RV-7 tailwheel tip-up
> > >
> > > Hey, before I call and bug Van's about this, I
> > > figured I'd ask the lists.
> > > Would there be any harm in leaving off the F-7101-L
> > > & -R gear attach webs?
> > > Those are pretty hefty relatively speaking, and
> > > since I'm building the
> > > tailwheel configuration do I really need them? I
> > > don't see how they do
> > > anything structurally (without -7A mains mounted
> > > there) other than add
> > > weight.
> > >
> > > I guess if somebody wanted to convert to a nose
> > > dragger down the line it
> > > makes sense to have 'em in there, but screw that.
> > > If I can save the weight,
> > > I'd like to leave them off.
> > >
> > > Am I out of my mind?
> > >
> > > )_( Dan
> > > RV-7 N714D (fuselage)
> > > http://www.rvproject.com
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Month --
> > > Gifts!)
> > > Click on the Contribution
> > > Terrific Free Gifts!
> > > Dralle, List Admin.
> > > _->
> > > Contributions of
> > > any other form
> > >
> > > latest messages.
> > > other List members.
> > >
> > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> > > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> > > http://www.matronics.com/search
> > > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > U2 on LAUNCH - Exclusive greatest hits videos
> > http://launch.yahoo.com/u2
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re:Rudder Pedals and Truck Bed Liners |
| From: | "Martin Hone" <martin.hone(at)tradergroup.com.au> |
On my RV6 I had all the steel rudder pedal and flap tubing Electroless Nickel plated.
The tubes were sandblasted prior to plating so that they had a nice satin silver-gold
sheen rather than the chrome look.
The Electroless process is much harder than chrome, is non-porous and will not
flake off. It also does not cause hydrogen embrittlement.
I can send a pic if anyone is interested.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Tip Sag |
Kyle,
I received many replies that echoed your conclusion and will
leave well enough alone. Thanks to Kyle, Randall, Garth, Mike and all the
other RVer's who responded on and off line.
Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing Tip Sag
>
> Yep, sag can be a problem with the wingtips, especially if they are
painted
> a dark color. However, I've never seen an RV where it was objectionable,
so
> I chose not to address it on my airplane. I'm happy with the decision to
> avoid at least one "improvement" that adds weight and time...
>
> There was a thread on the list several years ago on the subject. People
who
> put in local stiffeners (similar to ribs running in the span direction)
saw
> puckering between the stiffeners. One fellow epoxied a sheet of foam to
the
> inside of the top surface, then glassed that in. That seemed to be the
only
> solution that held real promise.
>
> KB
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Wing Tip Sag
>
>
> >
> > List, Seems like I heard somewhere that the Wing Tips on the RV6's are
> prone to sagging in time? Anyone seen this problem? Is there a fix? I
found
> nothing in the archives.
> >
> Tom in Ohio (Fiberglass City RV6-A)
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | canopy frame fit, manual & plans vs "In the Shop" |
rv9list
It's 10:30 at night. Vans is closed. So I can't call them. My son and I
spent the whole day learning about canopy frame adjustments (a day well
spent). But I am confused.
I really would like to hear from someone that used the manual to fit and
install their canopy frame, and who, has also looked at the RVator 5th
issue 2002 "In The Shop" disertation on canopy fit.
Both the article and the manual talk about the side bow shape, as being
one of the 1st things looked at. The article says get them close to the
shape of the fuselage sides. The manual says make them 1/16th less than
the sides of the fuselage. Thus the manual led me to believe a 'width'
of the canopy frame was involved. The article did not say anything about
width. Is width important at this point?
The 2nd thing, both the manual and article talk about is check the shape
of the canopy front bow to the rollbar. If the 'width' of the prior
operation is important, it will get all messed up, having to reshape the
front bow. Have I answered my own question?
The article says the bow should be taller and wider than the roll bar by
1/8" to 3/16" all the way around. And it should be the max at 10 and 2
o'clock. BUT go to the RV9a drawing 43, for the slider, and detail B
shows that canopy frame should be 3/8" higher than the roll bar. Is the
drawing dated 1/23/01, wrong? 3/8ths is twice 3/16ths, the last time I
looked.
I'd like to get started, 1st thing, but looks like I have to wait till
Barry Pote RV9a
Confused in Montclair
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: List Fund Raiser - What Listers Are Saying... |
In a message dated 11/7/2002 9:30:15 AM Pacific Standard Time,
dralle(at)matronics.com writes:
> First, I'd like say *thank you* to everyone that's already made a
> Contribution to this year's List Fund Raiser! Thank you! If you haven't
> already made a Contribution, won't you take a movement and show your
> support for these valuable services?
Matt-
Is it okay if I show my support first and then go take a movement?
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 575hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
,
| Subject: | Seat belts/ Harnesses |
I would like to get some feedback re-five point seat belts / harnesses made by
Pacific Aero Harness:
Go to http://home.att.net/~robh/
Did, or do you feel the price was / is?:
High,____
Low,____
Would you by the product?
Is the product what you expected?
More than,____
Less than,____
Did you find dealing with this company?:
Great.____
Good,____
average,____
Otherwise,____
Other information:_____
Are you glad you bought the product?
Would you by the product if production costs forced a price increase?
Thanks,
Jim in Kelowna
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Cantrell <kcflyrv(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Tip Sag |
Tom & Cathy,
When I was at that stage a couple years ago, someone told me about the sag
problem so I cut some strips of balsa and glassed them inside running for
and aft. No question, they're a little bit heavier but no sign of a sag.
Ken Cantrell
RV-6 N34KC
120 hrs since April 28th.
It just keeps getting better....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
Subject: RV-List: Wing Tip Sag
>
> List, Seems like I heard somewhere that the Wing Tips on the RV6's are
prone to sagging in time? Anyone seen this problem? Is there a fix? I found
nothing in the archives.
>
Tom in Ohio (Fiberglass City RV6-A)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall fuel fittings |
I> Is there any concern mounting aluminum fuel fittings on the firewall?
> I know this is the standard in most aircraft and I've done it before on
> another aircraft but
> the stainless steel firewall holes are very sharp and may cause some
> chaffing
> on the fuel fittings. Any concerns from others here?
I elected to use steel bulkhead fittings for the fuel supply and the Airflow
purge return line. They sure are alot heavier than the blue aluminum ones.
Cost more too. Any comments on the merrit of this? I bought the fittings
from ACS.
Norman Hunger
Reading the List a week behind, working too much again
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WCruiser1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Bob Haan's Wig-Wag Flasher |
Stop at your local police station and find out who customizes their cruisers
for lights. I picked up a SHOW-ME headlight flasher system from the local
shop, model 03.3125.
Gary RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: canopy frame fit,manual & plans vs "In the Shop" a bit |
of humor
Jim,
Thanks for the reply. As I mentioned in my original post, yesterday was
a training exercise. The size and the width 'came around' with a little
(a lot) of massaging. We were pretty happy. But then we looked at the
relative shape comparison of the rollbar to the canopy bow. The latch
mechanism was no where near the center. 10 o'clock position was way up
and 2 o'clock was way down. So we quit for the day.
Today is a new day!
Barry
PS I am allergic to cats.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank, Dan" <DFrank(at)dfwairport.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Flap motor amps? |
Mark,
I had a problem with a blown fuse after the first flight. I got all buckled
in, engine started and began to taxi out for flight no. 2 when I tried to
put up the flaps. No luck. Turned out my 5A fuse had blown. We measure
the load to the flap motor as 1.5 amps while it is traveling. Once it hits
its limits and the clutch disengages and it simply spins, we measured 7
amps. My wire was sized properly for a 10 amp fuse so that was my solution.
No problems yet.
I am planning on wiring in a limit switch for the up position as my flap
switch on the infinity grip is momentary on for flaps down and on/off for
flaps up. I am concerned that when I flip the switch to bring flaps up,
once they are up the motor continues to spin. Danny King put me on to a
limit switch that you simply mount to the flap motor actuator rod. (A Radio
Shack special) As the actuator rod retracts the limit switch is tripped and
the power to the flap up circuit is disengaged. The down circuit is still
hot and will allow for the flaps to go down. Once the switch is open again,
the flaps can come up.
Dan Frank
RV-8 Flying - 15 hours TT (only 25 left in the test phase)
N808VR
Subject: RV-List: Flap motor amps?
From: czechsix(at)juno.com
Anybody know approx how many amps Vans flap motor draws? I know it's only
an intermittent load, but I'm just curious for fuse and relay sizing...
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D finishing...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Seat belts/ Harnesses |
You won't find a more enthusiastic supporter of Pacific Aero Harness than
me. I consider them to have been a major factor in surviving my crash. I
prefer them over the Hookers I had in my Citabria. They're a little lighter,
more flexible, better made and as a bonus, half the price. I don't buy
safety items on price but there's no reason to spend more than necessary. I
plan to have my PAH belts rewebbed for use in the Phoenix and if, for some
reason, they don't pass muster for rewebbing, I'll buy a new set.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY - project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
>
> I would like to get some feedback re-five point seat belts /
> harnesses made by Pacific Aero Harness:
> Go to http://home.att.net/~robh/
>
> Did, or do you feel the price was / is?:
> High,____
> Low,____
>
> Would you by the product?
>
> Is the product what you expected?
> More than,____
> Less than,____
>
> Did you find dealing with this company?:
> Great.____
> Good,____
> average,____
> Otherwise,____
>
> Other information:_____
>
> Are you glad you bought the product?
>
> Would you by the product if production costs forced a price increase?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim in Kelowna
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A Intersection Fairings |
Norman;
In a word, YES.
I drew a line on the fuselage representing the underside of the wing
(forward of the spar) and then taped a piece of scrap 2024 to the fuse side
to match this line to imitate the presence of the wing(backed up with some
bits of blocking, etc. to stabilize things). Note carefully how the under
seat fuselage skin, the wing skin, the wing-fuse fairing strip and such all
mesh together where the gear leg joins the fuselage and add spacers as
needed to simulate the situation. Keep in mind that high precision is
probably not needed or desirable here as there is going to be some movement
and flexing of the gear leg anyway.
Then add your modeling clay fillet, get out the glass and epoxy and have at
making your fairings.
Jim Oke
Winnipeg, MB
RV-6A (finish tinkering - only 100 little jobs left..)
P.S. Don't worry about time lines or if others seem to be building faster or
whatever. Everyone has their own pace. Lots of homebuilts take 10 years. My
RV-3 did. Try and hook up with someone who is an effective parts chaser and
researcher on his own project and copy what he is doing. That's what it took
to get my RV-3 moving to finish....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: RV-List: RV6A Intersection Fiarings
>
> Can the RV6A upper main wheel leg intersection fairings be built with the
wings off?
>
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A Finishing forever,
> nothing firewall forward and still not on the gear
> pathetic, I'm in my sixth year at 2300 hrs construction and I'm close to
stalling......dreading the cost of the engine/prop combo I want.....haven't
flown squat in the last five years as I had to give up renting to afford
building......just bought a stock car team so 2003 doesn't look good for
spare cash.....ho hum.....
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Tip Sag |
I'm not sure what makes them sag, or what keeps them *from* sagging, but
just as another data point, I've been flying for 6 years with no mods to the
wingtips and I have no sag whatsoever.
Ed Bundy
RV6a 550+ hours
> When I was at that stage a couple years ago, someone told me about the sag
> problem so I cut some strips of balsa and glassed them inside running for
> and aft. No question, they're a little bit heavier but no sign of a sag.
>
> 120 hrs since April 28th.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A Intersection Fairings |
Has anyone heard about Van coming out with some pre-made intersection
fairings?
Does anyone know if the fairing kit from Team Rocket fit's the -A models
well or not?
-Bill VonDane
www.vondane.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Oke" <wjoke(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6A Intersection Fairings
Norman;
In a word, YES.
I drew a line on the fuselage representing the underside of the wing
(forward of the spar) and then taped a piece of scrap 2024 to the fuse side
to match this line to imitate the presence of the wing(backed up with some
bits of blocking, etc. to stabilize things). Note carefully how the under
seat fuselage skin, the wing skin, the wing-fuse fairing strip and such all
mesh together where the gear leg joins the fuselage and add spacers as
needed to simulate the situation. Keep in mind that high precision is
probably not needed or desirable here as there is going to be some movement
and flexing of the gear leg anyway.
Then add your modeling clay fillet, get out the glass and epoxy and have at
making your fairings.
Jim Oke
Winnipeg, MB
RV-6A (finish tinkering - only 100 little jobs left..)
P.S. Don't worry about time lines or if others seem to be building faster or
whatever. Everyone has their own pace. Lots of homebuilts take 10 years. My
RV-3 did. Try and hook up with someone who is an effective parts chaser and
researcher on his own project and copy what he is doing. That's what it took
to get my RV-3 moving to finish....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: RV-List: RV6A Intersection Fiarings
>
> Can the RV6A upper main wheel leg intersection fairings be built with the
wings off?
>
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A Finishing forever,
> nothing firewall forward and still not on the gear
> pathetic, I'm in my sixth year at 2300 hrs construction and I'm close to
stalling......dreading the cost of the engine/prop combo I want.....haven't
flown squat in the last five years as I had to give up renting to afford
building......just bought a stock car team so 2003 doesn't look good for
spare cash.....ho hum.....
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: canopy frame fit, manual & plans vs "In the Shop" |
Barry;
A couple of comments about fitting a -6A slider canopy myself last summer.
Obviously the windshield bow and the front canopy bow are big hefty pieces
of steel tube and will not bend easily and so are hard to get to a precise
shape. Consider using them pretty much "as is" and using a body filler
spacer to build them up to the final canopy contour and fill the gaps
between the spacers that the manual recommends. The strength is still there
and the final appearance will be as nice as you want to make it with
filling, sanding, etc.
The main decision on the front canopy bow is how high to make it (basically
where to cut the ends of the bow to fit onto the stubs extending from the
roller mechanism mounts). As the manual says, it is going to be a fair bit
higher in the middle than the windshield bow and slightly wider at the
sides. The windshield bow can tip fore and aft a small amount (with shims at
the canopy rail) to get the fore-aft spacing even. A really close or tight
gap is probably not necessary or desirable - some sort of rubber sealing
strip will need to go here regardless; IOW, shoot for 1/4"-3/16" vice 1/16"
gap.
Once the two front corners are set, then get the slider rail fitted,
centered and drilled to the fuselage and the plastic slider bit drilled to
the canopy frame. When you have these three points fixed, then work on the
rest of the canopy frame beginning with the side pieces. The bend in these
pieces should match the bend you put into the fuselage longerons (that why
there is some variation in the canopy frame Vans can provide). The shape of
the bend is the important thing - don't worry too much about the positioning
in or out of aft end as this will change as the aft canopy edges are
adjusted in the next step. There will be enough leverage applied by the aft
canopy bow to move the side rails aft ends in and out.
Then work from the center mount of the aft canopy bow out and downwards is
slow easy stages alternating with the left and right sides in stages trying
to match the curve of the aft fuselage skin. Close to the center the bends
need to be in a vertical plane as you move downwards the bends will have to
be a plane approaching a 45 deg angle and the close to vertical again as you
get to the side rails. Unfortunately there is enough flex and leverage that
a change mid bow will affect the fit up higher so it is a progressive "bit
at a time" process with frequent "restart at the beginning" steps but the
bow will gradually start to fit. As the fit improves farther and farther
down the sides, the aft ends of the side pieces will be drawn into position.
I used a good hefty workbench vise with curved wood pieces protecting the
jaws to do the bending. Fit the canopy frame, mark the bend area, take off,
put in vise, bend just enough to feel some give in the tubing and re-fit as
required - don't be surprised if this takes 25-30 tries!
A final step is to make up and fit the U brackets and plastics blocks the
canopy pins plus into. You might want to consider making up some temporary
blocks in soft wood to try some different angles holes before drilling the
actual UHMW blocks at $2 a pop. You will need these blocks to be in place
when you are fitting the canopy plastic.
Hey, I made that sound like so much fun, I almost want to do another one!
Jim Oke
RV-6A Winnipeg, MB (finishing & tinkering)
----- Original Message -----
From: "barry pote" <barrypote(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: canopy frame fit, manual & plans vs "In the Shop"
>
> It's 10:30 at night. Vans is closed. So I can't call them. My son and I
> spent the whole day learning about canopy frame adjustments (a day well
> spent). But I am confused.
>
> I really would like to hear from someone that used the manual to fit and
> install their canopy frame, and who, has also looked at the RVator 5th
> issue 2002 "In The Shop" disertation on canopy fit.
>
> Both the article and the manual talk about the side bow shape, as being
> one of the 1st things looked at. The article says get them close to the
> shape of the fuselage sides. The manual says make them 1/16th less than
> the sides of the fuselage. Thus the manual led me to believe a 'width'
> of the canopy frame was involved. The article did not say anything about
> width. Is width important at this point?
>
> The 2nd thing, both the manual and article talk about is check the shape
> of the canopy front bow to the rollbar. If the 'width' of the prior
> operation is important, it will get all messed up, having to reshape the
> front bow. Have I answered my own question?
>
> The article says the bow should be taller and wider than the roll bar by
> 1/8" to 3/16" all the way around. And it should be the max at 10 and 2
> o'clock. BUT go to the RV9a drawing 43, for the slider, and detail B
> shows that canopy frame should be 3/8" higher than the roll bar. Is the
> drawing dated 1/23/01, wrong? 3/8ths is twice 3/16ths, the last time I
> looked.
>
> I'd like to get started, 1st thing, but looks like I have to wait till
>
> Barry Pote RV9a
> Confused in Montclair
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Seat belts/ Harnesses |
I thought prices were fair, and it's a good product. Rob was easy to
work with. If prices need to go up because of production cost, you
need to increase the price.
Laird RV-6 (with PAH 5 point)
SoCal
>
>I would like to get some feedback re-five point seat belts /
>harnesses made by Pacific Aero Harness:
>Go to http://home.att.net/~robh/
>
>Did, or do you feel the price was / is?:
>High,____
>Low,____
>
>Would you by the product?
>
>Is the product what you expected?
>More than,____
>Less than,____
>
>Did you find dealing with this company?:
>Great.____
>Good,____
> average,____
>Otherwise,____
>
>Other information:_____
>
>Are you glad you bought the product?
>
>Would you by the product if production costs forced a price increase?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Jim in Kelowna
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall fuel fittings |
I used the aluminum fittings on the firewall of my -4, but riveted a small
doubler to the firewall at the locations of fuel fittings. I was more
concerned with the firewall stiffness and the ability of the fitting to
tighten on such a thin skin (the firewall). So far, so good.
Dean Pichon
RV-4 w/100 hours
>From: "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Firewall fuel fittings
>Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 01:25:33 -0800
>
>
>I> Is there any concern mounting aluminum fuel fittings on the firewall?
> > I know this is the standard in most aircraft and I've done it before on
> > another aircraft but
> > the stainless steel firewall holes are very sharp and may cause some
> > chaffing
> > on the fuel fittings. Any concerns from others here?
>
>I elected to use steel bulkhead fittings for the fuel supply and the
>Airflow
>purge return line. They sure are alot heavier than the blue aluminum ones.
>Cost more too. Any comments on the merrit of this? I bought the fittings
>from ACS.
>
>Norman Hunger
>Reading the List a week behind, working too much again
>
>
MSN 8 helps eliminate e-mail viruses. Get 2 months FREE*.
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Keith Vasey/Galvin Flying Svc" <keith(at)galvinflying.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder Pedals & Truck-bed Liners |
I went ahead and did it. I had the local Line-X guy spray my rudder pedals.
They're black. The only way I could have done another color, was to be there
when they are spraying a different color. Otherwise there is a prohibitive
"set up charge".
They look great in my opinion. It cost me $25.00
If anyone want to see photos, email me at keith(at)galvinflying.com and I'll
send some detail photos.
Keith Vasey
RV-8
>
> I was getting ready to paint - or powder coat - or chrome - my
rudderpedals
> prior to installation and it hit me that it might be slick to apply the
> spray-on truck bed liner as a finish coat. I talked with the local "Rhino
> Liner" and "Line-X" guys and they can do it in just about any color.
>
> Has anyone done this to rudder pedals (or any other cockpit surface)?
>
> Keith Vasey
> RV-8
> Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: canopy frame fit, manual & plans vs "In the Shop" |
Be sure to check the archives for canopy fitting ideas.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Entuziast" <reclama(at)entuziast.ru> |
| Subject: | =?Windows-1251?Q?=D1=C2=C5=D2=CE=C2=DB=C5 =C2=DB=C2=C5=D1=CA=C8, |
?
=?Windows-1251?Q?=CD=C5=CE=CD, =CD=C0=D0=D3=C6=CD=C0=DF ? =?Windows-1251?Q?=D0=C5=CA=CB=C0=CC=C0,
=CE=C1=DA=C5=CC=CD=DB=C5 ?
=?Windows-1251?Q?=C1=D3=CA=C2=DB.?Date:
Fri, 08 Nov 2002 20:58:19 ()
:
>
>
>
>
>
!
- " - " ,
. ,
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2) ,
(150 dpi, 300 dpi - ultra)
3) , , , .
.
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- - 145 $ \ ..
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- - 3.5 $ 1 ( )
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,
.
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- " - "
.
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:
"PLAZA" ""
" " "SOLARIS"
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" " ""
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. 777-77-33, .
e-mail: reclama(at)entuziast.ru
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re time to build and intersection fairings |
Norm, don't give up hope! In a separate posting, I mentioned that my 6-A took 7
years to build, with no short-cuts in the kits as available today, with the exception
that I was one of the first kit buyers to get the drilled wing skin option.
I have no idea how many hours it took to finish, as I didn't log them.
Is that a requirement in the USA? No requirement that I know-of in Canada. I spent
a long time building tools, such a pneumatic cleco installer / puller, C-frame
and some of the less used dimple dies, etc. You'd be surprised what one
can do with old auto shock-absorber struts, (a good source of 1/2" dia good
steel rods and free from auto shops)! My 6-A's maiden flight was 4 days before
my 75th birthday and sure enjoying it now!
Jim Oke described the method I also used for making the intersection leg/fuse
fairing: I had put my wings on earlier to fit the flaps, drill that very important
5/16" hole In the wing rear spar-to-fuse
intersection and fit the wing-root fairings, drilling the screw holes that connect
the belly-skin to the wing root. At that time I marked a line following the
fuel-tank outline on the fuse side which helped fitting a piece of scrap 2024
for the leg fairing just as he did. when the wings were finally put on in my
hangar (a year later) the fairings fit perfectly. Cheers!!!-----Henry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca> |
| Subject: | RV6A Intersection Fiarings |
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Norman
Subject: RV-List: RV6A Intersection Fiarings
Can the RV6A upper main wheel leg intersection fairings be built with the
wings off?
Norman Hunger
Hi Norman
Possible but not recommended (by me) unless you have a completed aircraft
nearby for measurments and to make up a pattern ensuring accuracy.
I made my upper gear leg fairings before the wing was installed by using a
piece of sheet metal to simulate the wing lower surface. I clamped the metal
to the fusalage side and under the temporary wing spar.
While close, I must have had some twist in the metal because I ended up with
a 1/4 inch gap at the forward outer corner on both fairings. Now during the
100 hr inspection I will re-do the forward part of the flange.
To get a good fit the rubber gap seal must also be installed as it fits
under the fairing.
George McNutt
Langley B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | RV builder/flyers in Las Vegas NV area |
I'd like to talk to anyone who has been active in RV building or flying in the
Utah & Nevada areas over the last ten years. I'm considering a project in that
area & need an unbiased opinion about its construction quality before I invest
in a rather long trip to see it first-hand.
Please respond to
cengland(at)netdoor.com
If you will include your phone # & best contact times, I'll give you a call.
Thanks,
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)vondane.com> |
"vansairforce"
| Subject: | New Excel W&B Spreadsheet |
Since I was getting all kinds of requests for W&B spreadsheets for different RV
Models, I thought I would try to make one that would work with all models...
So, give this a try...
All I ask is if you like it, please send me a $b'zillion donation! :-)
http://vondane.com/downloads/index.htm
-Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A Intersection Fiarings |
Save yourself a lot of trouble and get a first-rate result by purchasing the
Team Rocket upper gear leg fairings. I built my first units, then later
replaced them and the gear leg fairings with the Team Rocket units which are
quite nice...I heated the forward part a bit to shape it to the fuselage and
got a realy tight fit. I attached them with nut certs and #8 screws and am
quite happy with the results. FWIW
John at Salida, CO
----- Original Message -----
From: "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca>
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV6A Intersection Fiarings
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Norman
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RV6A Intersection Fiarings
>
>
> Can the RV6A upper main wheel leg intersection fairings be built with the
> wings off?
>
> Norman Hunger
>
> Hi Norman
>
> Possible but not recommended (by me) unless you have a completed aircraft
> nearby for measurments and to make up a pattern ensuring accuracy.
>
> I made my upper gear leg fairings before the wing was installed by using a
> piece of sheet metal to simulate the wing lower surface. I clamped the
metal
> to the fusalage side and under the temporary wing spar.
>
> While close, I must have had some twist in the metal because I ended up
with
> a 1/4 inch gap at the forward outer corner on both fairings. Now during
the
> 100 hr inspection I will re-do the forward part of the flange.
>
> To get a good fit the rubber gap seal must also be installed as it fits
> under the fairing.
>
>
> George McNutt
> Langley B.C.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New Excel W&B Spreadsheet |
Hi Bill,
I have tried to download the W&B spreadsheets from your website. What I
get is a string of nonsense characters on the screen with no opportunity
to download. I have experienced this from your previous lists of
spreadsheets for individual RV types as well as your new program. I
expected to get some requests from my software as to where I wanted to
place the file in the download but I just get a string of characters. I
don't have excel but I do have 1-2-3 which will accept an xls, xlt or
xlw file.
Any suggestions?
Regards,
Richard Dudley
-6A FWF
Bill VonDane wrote:
>
>
> Since I was getting all kinds of requests for W&B spreadsheets for different
RV Models, I thought I would try to make one that would work with all models...
So, give this a try...
>
> All I ask is if you like it, please send me a $b'zillion donation! :-)
>
> http://vondane.com/downloads/index.htm
>
> -Bill
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Galati" <rick07x(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re RV-6A Intersection Fairings |
I have saved myself an enormous amount of work by buying all the
intersection fairings from Bob Snedacker. His upper gear intersection
fairings are molded in such a way that by keying into the radius of the side and
belly skins you get the alignment needed to set the leg fairings and that
provides the alignment for the the wheel pant fairings. You do not have to have
the wings on to do all this. He also supplies the upper and LOWER nose gear
fairings. The lower is a nice detail touch, you bond it to the forward
wheel pant and it provides a smooth transition to the leg fairing. His work
is top quality and all can be bought for $284 includes shipping.--- Rick
Galati
--- rick07x(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com> |
| Subject: | Re time to build and Airventure 2003 |
Heck, I bought my -6A plans in 1992 (I am moving my builder's log into
Kitlog and just found the receipt) and the empennage kit in Nov. 1993.
It took about 3.5 years to get thru the tail and wings and then I rested
for four years (building is hard work ). Now I'm going again, the
fuselage is proceeding but I still expect it to be three years before I
get airborne; due to economic reasons, I won't be able to afford all the
components (engine and instruments) until then. And I know that there
are projects that have taken longer. Keep working on it and you will
get there.
Now that I can look at RVs again without going nuts (shelving a project
for four years is tough), I want to make the next OSH. Better still, I
would like to go along in an RV. It's not too early to make plans so,
if anyone is going from or through the Flagstaff area and has a
two-place RV (preferably a side-by-side though I won't sneer at a -4 or
-8), I would be happy to share expenses (generously) in exchange for a
long familiarization flight to OSH.
Patrick Kelley
RV-6A - Firewall parts being painted, other bulkheads in the works
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Elsa & Henry
Subject: RV-List: Re time to build and intersection fairings
<elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Norm, don't give up hope! In a separate posting, I mentioned that my 6-A
took 7 years to build, with no short-cuts in the kits as available
today, with the exception that I was one of the first kit buyers to get
the drilled wing skin option. I have no idea how many hours it took to
finish, as I didn't log them. Is that a requirement in the USA? No
requirement that I know-of in Canada. I spent a long time building
tools, such a pneumatic cleco installer / puller, C-frame and some of
the less used dimple dies, etc. You'd be surprised what one can do with
old auto shock-absorber struts, (a good source of 1/2" dia good steel
rods and free from auto shops)! My 6-A's maiden flight was 4 days before
my 75th birthday and sure enjoying it now!
*** remainder snipped ***
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A Intersection Fairings |
I had the Team Rocket fairings on my -6A and they fit perfectly. I couldn't
imagine making mine up from scratch. Worth the $$ in my opinion.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)vondane.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6A Intersection Fairings
>
> Has anyone heard about Van coming out with some pre-made intersection
> fairings?
>
> Does anyone know if the fairing kit from Team Rocket fit's the -A models
> well or not?
>
> -Bill VonDane
> www.vondane.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jim Oke" <wjoke(at)shaw.ca>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6A Intersection Fairings
>
>
> Norman;
>
> In a word, YES.
>
> I drew a line on the fuselage representing the underside of the wing
> (forward of the spar) and then taped a piece of scrap 2024 to the fuse
side
> to match this line to imitate the presence of the wing(backed up with some
> bits of blocking, etc. to stabilize things). Note carefully how the under
> seat fuselage skin, the wing skin, the wing-fuse fairing strip and such
all
> mesh together where the gear leg joins the fuselage and add spacers as
> needed to simulate the situation. Keep in mind that high precision is
> probably not needed or desirable here as there is going to be some
movement
> and flexing of the gear leg anyway.
>
> Then add your modeling clay fillet, get out the glass and epoxy and have
at
> making your fairings.
>
> Jim Oke
> Winnipeg, MB
> RV-6A (finish tinkering - only 100 little jobs left..)
>
> P.S. Don't worry about time lines or if others seem to be building faster
or
> whatever. Everyone has their own pace. Lots of homebuilts take 10 years. M
y
> RV-3 did. Try and hook up with someone who is an effective parts chaser
and
> researcher on his own project and copy what he is doing. That's what it
took
> to get my RV-3 moving to finish....
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: RV6A Intersection Fiarings
>
>
> >
> > Can the RV6A upper main wheel leg intersection fairings be built with
the
> wings off?
> >
> > Norman Hunger
> > RV6A Finishing forever,
> > nothing firewall forward and still not on the gear
> > pathetic, I'm in my sixth year at 2300 hrs construction and I'm close to
> stalling......dreading the cost of the engine/prop combo I
want.....haven't
> flown squat in the last five years as I had to give up renting to afford
> building......just bought a stock car team so 2003 doesn't look good for
> spare cash.....ho hum.....
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New Excel W&B Spreadsheet |
Richard Dudley wrote:
>
>Hi Bill,
>I have tried to download the W&B spreadsheets from your website. What I
>get is a string of nonsense characters on the screen with no opportunity
>to download. I have experienced this from your previous lists of
>spreadsheets for individual RV types as well as your new program. I
>expected to get some requests from my software as to where I wanted to
>place the file in the download but I just get a string of characters. I
>don't have excel but I do have 1-2-3 which will accept an xls, xlt or
>xlw file.
>
>Any suggestions?
>
>Regards,
>
>Richard Dudley
>-6A FWF
>
>
Right click on it and select save target link as , it will then let you
save the file where you want and then you can open it!
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Working on the wings :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
| Subject: | Re time to build and Airventure 2003 |
> It took about 3.5 years to get thru the tail and wings and then I rested
> for four years
Finally someone who's taking longer than me! Woohoo!
Tedd McHenry
-6 wings (honest)
Surrey, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Seat belts/ Harnesses |
I bought a pair in 1998/1999. Been flying with them for 460+ hours, like
them just fine. Well made, work properly, relatively inexpensive.
I'll probably buy them again for my RV-10.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Austin" <6430(at)axion.net> |
Robert Browning was the poet who wrote in an ode to his wife of his love and
appreciation for her by penning the lines,
"How do I love thee, let me count the ways "..
Well, I must concur with the essence of the RV list and all the members and
lurkers who have helped me get to where I am now,flying, by saying , my
sentiments are the same as Brownings...
I have asked many a question, gotten immeasurable help, found friends, and
had photos and gifts sent to me all because of voices in the ether who want
to see another RV get in the air by what ever means..technical help, or a
personal snapshot story of flying....
I must say now and forever more, Thank you all,...and Matt for this list and
the avenues of communication that he opened up for all of us.
First timers especially and even repeaters whose memories need an input of
electric jolt of recollection.....
I really appreciate notes from all over the globe from listers who names
you may only see once, but have added something I keep in my "help" files,
and whose input is still read and helpful today, after all the rivets, and
painting, and assembly and inspections are done and you have a few hours on
the airplane....something, like a snag, or a concern, will still prompt a
question, and there is an RVer somewhere who will answer the call....
When you get done, take off alone one evening near dark and head
out away from zones and fly up to the base of the dark and watch the lights
come on below.
Turn on the strobes and instrument lights and marvel as the GPS clicks off
the speed and distance to home and start your letdown enjoy the beauty
within and without as streets and cars define lines of light and color as
cannot be seen by day and see a new beauty that flying gives by twilight....
Chances are, you may be the only one in the area, and be cleared straight
in, hopefully the VASI lights will tell you that you are on the glidepath,
and flare over the darkness where grass and blacktop meet and you are
rolling out with strobes lighting the grass every now and then and wigwag
lights breaking the darkness on the runway....
What can ever compare with that ?
That, and the fact that you created this portrait.
The list helped me experience the magic all that much sooner...
Please support Matt, and in the doing, support and keep in place all the
listers of our special club.
Austin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Seat belts/ Harnesses |
Hi Laird,
From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net>
Subject: Re:
Date: Friday, November 08, 2002 5:25 PM
Hi John,
Hi John,
He has run into problems with his buckle hardware supplier whom is going out
of business and intends to shut down after his present supply of stock is
gone.
I asked the question on the "list" because I am trying to convince him that
changing suppliers and forging onward would be a good idea.
I'm hoping that I can garner enough information to encourage him to go on.
Using the alternative hardware suppliers he has at his disposal would mean
an increase in the selling price of his product due to passing on their
higher prices.
Needless to say he is disappointed. He feels that people won't by at the
higher prices.
I tend to think that his product was under priced for the quality to start
with. That he might loose some customers to price but gain others due to a
revised product that could offer some new or different benefits. Such as a
wider range of color choices, different styles of hardware such as center
punch releases. etc.
As a safety device and as a quality product his belts are as good as the
applications demand and better than many.
Give him a call or an email and try to encourage him to carry on however
necessary.
I hate to see our market choices shrinking. I also hate to see a straight up
guy like him being pushed out.
If you know others that would use his product even if the price was somewhat
higher get tham to chat him up a bit.
I have not been charged as yet. When asked about that, he said he only
charges on the shipping date. Carrying stock till the day of shipping is not
too common of late.
As it stands now his list of final orders is to be sent out the last half of
this month.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Laird Owens" <owens(at)aerovironment.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Seat belts/ Harnesses
>
> I thought prices were fair, and it's a good product. Rob was easy to
> work with. If prices need to go up because of production cost, you
> need to increase the price.
>
> Laird RV-6 (with PAH 5 point)
> SoCal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
Mark......I measured mine on the RV-9A. It was about 1 amp with no load, and when
I leaned hard on the flap arm, it went up to just a hair under 2 amps. By
the way, I could tell no change in speed when I leaned on it. Plenty of power.
Gary
Subject: RV-List: Flap motor amps?
From: czechsix(at)juno.com
Anybody know approx how many amps Vans flap motor draws? I know it's only an intermittent
load, but I'm just curious for fuse and relay sizing...
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D finishing...
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Galati" <rick07x(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Intersection Fairings |
For more information on intersection fairing alternatives , check out www.fairings-etc.com .
--- Rick Galati
--- rick07x(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Compton" <rdcompton(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Seat belts/ Harnesses |
I, too, have Pacific Aero Harness in my plane...absolutely love 'em.
Customer support is first-rate. I would not hesitate to recommend them, or
to do business with them again.
My only regret is waiting so long to buy them. Shoulda ditched the Van's
stuff long ago.
Randy Compton
RV-3 Gulf Breeze, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Imfairings(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A Intersection Fairings |
Norman,
I make upper and lower gear leg fairings for the -6A based on Van's pressure
recovery wheel pants and 'glass gear leg fairings. The ones sI make would
save you time and probably money. Check out my web site www.fairings-etc.com
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Imfairings(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A Intersection Fairings |
I haven't heard about Van doing intersection fairings, but I have them for
the -4,-6, -6A and -7. The -7A and -8A are being checked out to see check
the fit. See my web site www.fairings-etc.com
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Imfairings(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Re RV-6A Intersection Fairings |
Good Evening Jim,
You can catch my web site at: www.fairings-etc.com
Rick has been one of many satisfied customers.
Bob Snedacker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Imfairings(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Intersection Fairings |
Rick, thanks so much for the great remarks about the fairings I built for
you. As you know testimony for the user goes a long way in validating the
product. It makes all that time I send rolling around on the cold hangar
floor with resin dripping off my elbows worth it. Again thanks.
Bob Snedaker
www.fairings-etc.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Re RV-6A Intersection Fairings |
Hi Bob,
I Looked in on your site that in fact is where I got your email link.
A suggestion if I may:
You might have less emails to answer if you show a small list of all models
and the parts that you carry for them on the front page.
Maybe a small line suggesting a broader range of stock on the order page
would go a long way to making your stunning front page a little more
intuitive.
As it is there is no clue to the range of parts there.
I for one passed over your front page (it's in my favorites list) several
times hoping to see some additions to your products list. I have for some
time now, thought that you were missing so much of the potential market.
Thanks for the good works I expect I'll be in touch soon.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: <Imfairings(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re RV-6A Intersection Fairings
>
> Good Evening Jim,
>
> You can catch my web site at: www.fairings-etc.com
>
> Rick has been one of many satisfied customers.
>
> Bob Snedacker
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | douglas.gardner(at)honeywell.com |
| Subject: | RV6A Intersection Fairings |
Same here on my -8A, fit's like in an hour, very symmetrical.
Doug Gardner -8A #80717
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Besing [mailto:azpilot(at)extremezone.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6A Intersection Fairings
I had the Team Rocket fairings on my -6A and they fit perfectly. I couldn't
imagine making mine up from scratch. Worth the $$ in my opinion.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)vondane.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6A Intersection Fairings
>
> Has anyone heard about Van coming out with some pre-made intersection
> fairings?
>
> Does anyone know if the fairing kit from Team Rocket fit's the -A models
> well or not?
>
> -Bill VonDane
> www.vondane.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jim Oke" <wjoke(at)shaw.ca>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6A Intersection Fairings
>
>
> Norman;
>
> In a word, YES.
>
> I drew a line on the fuselage representing the underside of the wing
> (forward of the spar) and then taped a piece of scrap 2024 to the fuse
side
> to match this line to imitate the presence of the wing(backed up with some
> bits of blocking, etc. to stabilize things). Note carefully how the under
> seat fuselage skin, the wing skin, the wing-fuse fairing strip and such
all
> mesh together where the gear leg joins the fuselage and add spacers as
> needed to simulate the situation. Keep in mind that high precision is
> probably not needed or desirable here as there is going to be some
movement
> and flexing of the gear leg anyway.
>
> Then add your modeling clay fillet, get out the glass and epoxy and have
at
> making your fairings.
>
> Jim Oke
> Winnipeg, MB
> RV-6A (finish tinkering - only 100 little jobs left..)
>
> P.S. Don't worry about time lines or if others seem to be building faster
or
> whatever. Everyone has their own pace. Lots of homebuilts take 10 years. M
y
> RV-3 did. Try and hook up with someone who is an effective parts chaser
and
> researcher on his own project and copy what he is doing. That's what it
took
> to get my RV-3 moving to finish....
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: RV6A Intersection Fiarings
>
>
> >
> > Can the RV6A upper main wheel leg intersection fairings be built with
the
> wings off?
> >
> > Norman Hunger
> > RV6A Finishing forever,
> > nothing firewall forward and still not on the gear
> > pathetic, I'm in my sixth year at 2300 hrs construction and I'm close to
> stalling......dreading the cost of the engine/prop combo I
want.....haven't
> flown squat in the last five years as I had to give up renting to afford
> building......just bought a stock car team so 2003 doesn't look good for
> spare cash.....ho hum.....
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Ahearn" <dahearn(at)attbi.com> |
Listers,
I'm in tool acquisition mode and expect to start my -7 in January.
Anyone in the DFW area looking to sell quality tools please respond off list.
Regards
Dan
Highland Village
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Robert Browning |
Austin,
Agree with you completely,
Thanks also goes to you for your outstanding prose that has kept many of
going late at night.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "Austin" <6430(at)axion.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "rv-list rv-list"
>Subject: RV-List: Robert Browning
>Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 17:12:02 -0800
>
>
>Robert Browning was the poet who wrote in an ode to his wife of his love
>and
>appreciation for her by penning the lines,
>
>"How do I love thee, let me count the ways "..
>
>Well, I must concur with the essence of the RV list and all the members and
>lurkers who have helped me get to where I am now,flying, by saying , my
>sentiments are the same as Brownings...
>I have asked many a question, gotten immeasurable help, found friends, and
>had photos and gifts sent to me all because of voices in the ether who want
>to see another RV get in the air by what ever means..technical help, or a
>personal snapshot story of flying....
>I must say now and forever more, Thank you all,...and Matt for this list
>and
>the avenues of communication that he opened up for all of us.
>First timers especially and even repeaters whose memories need an input of
>electric jolt of recollection.....
> I really appreciate notes from all over the globe from listers who names
>you may only see once, but have added something I keep in my "help" files,
>and whose input is still read and helpful today, after all the rivets, and
>painting, and assembly and inspections are done and you have a few hours on
>the airplane....something, like a snag, or a concern, will still prompt a
>question, and there is an RVer somewhere who will answer the call....
> When you get done, take off alone one evening near dark and head
>out away from zones and fly up to the base of the dark and watch the lights
>come on below.
>Turn on the strobes and instrument lights and marvel as the GPS clicks off
>the speed and distance to home and start your letdown enjoy the beauty
>within and without as streets and cars define lines of light and color as
>cannot be seen by day and see a new beauty that flying gives by
>twilight....
>Chances are, you may be the only one in the area, and be cleared straight
>in, hopefully the VASI lights will tell you that you are on the glidepath,
>and flare over the darkness where grass and blacktop meet and you are
>rolling out with strobes lighting the grass every now and then and wigwag
>lights breaking the darkness on the runway....
>What can ever compare with that ?
>That, and the fact that you created this portrait.
>The list helped me experience the magic all that much sooner...
>Please support Matt, and in the doing, support and keep in place all the
>listers of our special club.
>Austin.
>
>
The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE*
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Simmons" <ken(at)truckstop.com> |
| Subject: | Inboard fuel tank Z-bracket |
The plans aren't real clear on when the platenuts for the inboard Z bracket
get installed on the main spar. It seems like it would get done when your
installing the other b-zillion or so platenuts to the spar. Is there some
reason not to do it now (before attaching the ribs)? Dan Checkoway's
excellent description on fitting the fuel tanks implies that it should be
done at the time the tanks are fitted.
Ken
8 (wings)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Re RV-6A Intersection Fairings |
I too whole heartedly endorse "Bob" for his excellent fairing work.
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: <Imfairings(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re RV-6A Intersection Fairings
>
> Good Evening Jim,
>
> You can catch my web site at: www.fairings-etc.com
>
> Rick has been one of many satisfied customers.
>
> Bob Snedacker
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Bob Haan's Wig-Wag Flasher |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
I also plan to use a button on my Infinity grip. Do you have any kind of panel
indicator light to show when the lights are ON, and if so, how did you wire it?
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D finishing...
________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________
From: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Bob Haan's Wig-Wag Flasher
Mark,
We have been using Bob's flasher since day 1 and it continues to work
flawlessly. It was easy to install and interfaced very well with our
infinity grip. Highly recommend it.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A 140 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Checkoway <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Inboard fuel tank Z-bracket |
If I was doing it again, I would install those platenuts early like you
suggest...before the ribs go on. No harm either way, though.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (fuselage)
http://www.rvproject.com
Quoting Ken Simmons :
>
> The plans aren't real clear on when the platenuts for the inboard Z
> bracket
> get installed on the main spar. It seems like it would get done when your
> installing the other b-zillion or so platenuts to the spar. Is there some
> reason not to do it now (before attaching the ribs)? Dan Checkoway's
> excellent description on fitting the fuel tanks implies that it should be
> done at the time the tanks are fitted.
>
> Ken
> 8 (wings)
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Imfairings(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Re RV-6A Intersection Fairings |
Chuck, Thanks for you endorsement of my work. I am glad they worked well
for you. Thanks for taking the time to share this with others on the List.
Happy customers and good fitting fairings are my goal.
Bob
www.fairings-etc.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Woodhouse <chrisw3(at)cox.net> |
,
vansairforce ,
RV-list
This is probably a ridiculous idea but wouldn't the elevator and aileron
servos work for a 2 axis auto pilot. I know it wouldn't have the
authority to maintain heading and altitude in turbulence, but couldn't
it do fine in smooth air? Then if the going got rough just deactivate
the autopilot and fly yourself.
--
Chris Woodhouse
3147 SW 127th St.
Oklahoma City, OK 73170
405-691-5206 (home)
chrisw(at)programmer.net
N35 20.492'
W97 34.342'
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miller Robert <rmiller3(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A Intersection Fairings |
Please don't forget the 9A. ...
Imfairings(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I haven't heard about Van doing intersection fairings, but I have them for
> the -4,-6, -6A and -7. The -7A and -8A are being checked out to see check
> the fit. See my web site www.fairings-etc.com
>
> Bob
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Woodhouse <chrisw3(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: A dumb question |
Opps, I meant to say the elevator and aileron TRIM servos.
Chris Woodhouse wrote:
>
> This is probably a ridiculous idea but wouldn't the elevator and aileron
> servos work for a 2 axis auto pilot. I know it wouldn't have the
> authority to maintain heading and altitude in turbulence, but couldn't
> it do fine in smooth air? Then if the going got rough just deactivate
> the autopilot and fly yourself.
>
> --
> Chris Woodhouse
> 3147 SW 127th St.
> Oklahoma City, OK 73170
> 405-691-5206 (home)
> chrisw(at)programmer.net
> N35 20.492'
> W97 34.342'
>
--
Chris Woodhouse
3147 SW 127th St.
Oklahoma City, OK 73170
405-691-5206 (home)
chrisw(at)programmer.net
N35 20.492'
W97 34.342'
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Woodhouse <chrisw3(at)cox.net> |
,
vansairforce
| Subject: | Re: A dumb question |
Opps, I meant to say the elevator and aileron TRIM servos.
Chris Woodhouse wrote:
>
> This is probably a ridiculous idea but wouldn't the elevator and aileron
> servos work for a 2 axis auto pilot. I know it wouldn't have the
> authority to maintain heading and altitude in turbulence, but couldn't
> it do fine in smooth air? Then if the going got rough just deactivate
> the autopilot and fly yourself.
>
> --
> Chris Woodhouse
> 3147 SW 127th St.
> Oklahoma City, OK 73170
> 405-691-5206 (home)
> chrisw(at)programmer.net
> N35 20.492'
> W97 34.342'
>
--
Chris Woodhouse
3147 SW 127th St.
Oklahoma City, OK 73170
405-691-5206 (home)
chrisw(at)programmer.net
N35 20.492'
W97 34.342'
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: A dumb question |
>
>This is probably a ridiculous idea but wouldn't the elevator and aileron
>servos work for a 2 axis auto pilot. I know it wouldn't have the
>authority to maintain heading and altitude in turbulence, but couldn't
>it do fine in smooth air? Then if the going got rough just deactivate
>the autopilot and fly yourself.
>
>--
>Chris Woodhouse
I assume you mean the elevator and aileron trim servos. I think it
would be a real trick would be dealing with the lag from the time the
autopilot sent a trim change to the time the aircraft's flight path
started to change. This would probably make it hard to get the gains
set so as to get acceptable performance without sustained
oscillations.
There was an "EZ-Trim" altitude hold system marketed to Rutan canard
guys years ago that used the electric elevator trim servo. It is no
longer offered for sale, but a couple of RVers had tracked down the
plans for the circuit board, and were thinking about getting some
cards made for testing. There is some info in the archives. Try a
search for EZ & trim.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (baffles, induction air, oil cooler)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
| Subject: | Ellison throttle cable |
Okay, guys, I need to talk to someone who has hooked up the throttle cable to their
Ellison Throttle Body carb.
The problem I ran into is that the standard Van's/Aircraft Spruce throttle cables
do not fit in the clamp on the Ellison. The threaded portion of the cable
sheath is too large to fit in the clamp. I asked Ellison if I could just drill
the clamp out 1/64 larger, and thread it to accept the cable, or drill it out
a bit larger and not thread the clamp.
Their reply was that they had never heard of this problem and that both actions
would be unsafe.
Seems to me this is the most common type of cable used on RV's. Seems strange
it hasn't come up before.
What did you guys do?
Gary
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
It seems to me if you are drawing 1.5 amps operating the flaps, and 7 amps when
there should be no load, something must be wrong. At the ends of the travel,
the screw just runs off the end of the threads. There is no clutch mechanism.
Maybe yours is not releasing from the threads at the end of the travel, stalling
the motor?
Mine draws less than 1.5 amps when I hold the switch on at the end of the travel.
Maybe Cy could help us with this one.
Gary
From: "Frank, Dan" <DFrank(at)dfwairport.com>
Subject: RV-List: RE: Flap motor amps?
Mark,
I had a problem with a blown fuse after the first flight. I got all buckled
in, engine started and began to taxi out for flight no. 2 when I tried to
put up the flaps. No luck. Turned out my 5A fuse had blown. We measure
the load to the flap motor as 1.5 amps while it is traveling. Once it hits
its limits and the clutch disengages and it simply spins, we measured 7
amps. My wire was sized properly for a 10 amp fuse so that was my solution.
No problems yet.
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
| Subject: | Ah, to times past |
Any of you out there remember the first round of prepunched wing skins that
came with white plastic.
The story I heard was that happened when the prepunching company Vans was
using messed up some skins, and then replaced them on their own.
The stuff went way south after about 3 months and would only come off in
little shreds.
It took me four weeks to get all those little peices off. Heat guns and
chemicals just seemed to make it worse.
Although I don't rue the $70 it cost, it probably would have been faster to
just layout my own holes.
I also had to buy another leading edge skin because they sent me two of the
same side and they didn't put part numbers on them, so I didn't know they
were different when I inventoried. By the time I realized the error a year
later Van's wouldn't honor the exchange.
Ah well, It all becomes moot after that first flight. ;{)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WPAerial(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | rv6a flaps not lining up? |
right flap hangs low at fuselage inboard side a little twist in it i guess is
problem. left flap, the whole flap is about a 1/4" low and is high at inboard
side, can't see any twist in this side. don't no why this is happening.
any one had this problem or ideas how to fix?
jerry wilken
ready to fly but for flaps #%@#$!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV6a Flaps not lining up |
Have you sighted along the trailing edges to see how much the flaps align/or
not align with the ailerons ? If you have much twist in the flaps it could be
a VERY BAD problem - making the craft uncontrolable.
If you remove the flaps and drill out the skin/spar rivets and re-rivet them
on a good flat table you might salvage the job.
I built an RV-4 and would have to look at a friends RV-6A to get further
info.
RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
Charleston, Arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross A. Scroggs" <rscroggs(at)attbi.com> |
Need help from the RV-4 community.
On the 4, the fuel tank skins are furnished without the gas cap holes being pre-cut.
I've researched the plans
and builder manual and can't figure out the diameter of this hole. If I've overlooked
it, then please someone
please tell me where I can find it.
I hate to assume, if you know what I mean, but it looks like the hole in the skin
is slightly larger than the
diameter of the gas cap.
Anybody know for sure?
Ross Scroggs
Conyers, Ga.
RV-4 #3911 Tanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Gas Caps |
Ross,
I don't know if there is a diameter call-out, but if you can't find one,
just measure the outside diameter of the raised portion of the cap assembly,
then cut a hole 1/32 or so larger.
Kyle Boatright
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ross A. Scroggs" <rscroggs(at)attbi.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV-4 Gas Caps
>
> Need help from the RV-4 community.
> On the 4, the fuel tank skins are furnished without the gas cap holes
being pre-cut. I've researched the plans
> and builder manual and can't figure out the diameter of this hole. If
I've overlooked it, then please someone
> please tell me where I can find it.
> I hate to assume, if you know what I mean, but it looks like the hole in
the skin is slightly larger than the
> diameter of the gas cap.
> Anybody know for sure?
>
> Ross Scroggs
> Conyers, Ga.
> RV-4 #3911 Tanks
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ah, to times past |
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
Gee Wheeler, If you had menchioned it I would have told you which
chemical I used to take my white plastic off after it sittin for three
years. Was easy.
Cecil
writes:
>
> Any of you out there remember the first round of prepunched wing
> skins that
> came with white plastic.
>
> The story I heard was that happened when the prepunching company
> Vans was
> using messed up some skins, and then replaced them on their own.
>
> The stuff went way south after about 3 months and would only come
> off in
> little shreds.
>
> It took me four weeks to get all those little peices off. Heat guns
> and
> chemicals just seemed to make it worse.
>
> Although I don't rue the $70 it cost, it probably would have been
> faster to
> just layout my own holes.
>
> I also had to buy another leading edge skin because they sent me two
> of the
> same side and they didn't put part numbers on them, so I didn't know
> they
> were different when I inventoried. By the time I realized the error
> a year
> later Van's wouldn't honor the exchange.
>
> Ah well, It all becomes moot after that first flight. ;{)
>
>
>
> Contribution
> Gifts!
> Admin.
> _->
>
> messages.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Stribling" <ken(at)soundsuckers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bob Haan's Wig-Wag Flasher |
I have a wig-wag switch from a police car and it doesn't work all that well
it flashes so fast the lights don't come up to full brightness at a 1/4 mile
out you don't really know they are working, Next time I wont waste time or
effort putting one in I will just stick with landing lights.
Ken S. Snowed In .... in Oregon
----- Original Message -----
From: <WCruiser1(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Bob Haan's Wig-Wag Flasher
>
> Stop at your local police station and find out who customizes their
cruisers
> for lights. I picked up a SHOW-ME headlight flasher system from the local
> shop, model 03.3125.
>
>
> Gary RV8A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Chemical for removig white plastic? |
Re your posting, well, what was it? When I received my kit in 1995, there were
69 pieces of aluminum cuttings, scrap sheet-ends, various gauges, packed in the
boxes. I would say there was about 20 lbs worth, with a note from Van's packers
saying it was "a gift for making that custom bracket---"! Well, most of them
have the white stuff on them. I have used a few of the thicker gauge pieces,
and like most of the kit sheets it was a #$!*~!&* job to get it off! Please
let us know your chemical secret!
Regards,------- Henry elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
Fellow Listers:
One of our local members is looking for an RV-4 kit. Details below:
Doug Weiler
MN Wing
-----------
RV-4 Project Wanted - I will consider a project at any phase of completion.
Call John Anderson at (262) 248-8748.
Lake Geneva, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kenneth Beene" <kbeene(at)citilink.com> |
> On the 4, the fuel tank skins are furnished without the gas
> cap holes being pre-cut. I've researched the plans and
> builder manual and can't figure out the diameter of this
> hole.
Ross,
My cap measures 2.335 inches. I cut the hold to 2.3875 diameter. You
need enough space between the surfaces of the opening and the cap that
the paint doesn't chip. Make sure you fit the cap squarely in the
flange when fitting and drilling the flange to the skin.
Ken
RV-6A N94KB
RV-4 under construction
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Rhea" <rv6larry(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap motor amps |
I had the same problem with my flap motor drawing in excess of 7 amps when
coming to the end of travel.
To make a long story short I returned the motor to Vans for
replacement.The new motor only draws a maximun of 2 amps in any direction.
>From: "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Flap motor amps
>Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 11:08:29 -0700
>
>
>It seems to me if you are drawing 1.5 amps operating the flaps, and 7 amps
>when there should be no load, something must be wrong. At the ends of the
>travel, the screw just runs off the end of the threads. There is no clutch
>mechanism. Maybe yours is not releasing from the threads at the end of the
>travel, stalling the motor?
>
>Mine draws less than 1.5 amps when I hold the switch on at the end of the
>travel.
>
>Maybe Cy could help us with this one.
>
>Gary
>
>
>From: "Frank, Dan" <DFrank(at)dfwairport.com>
>Subject: RV-List: RE: Flap motor amps?
>
>
>Mark,
>
>I had a problem with a blown fuse after the first flight. I got all
>buckled
>in, engine started and began to taxi out for flight no. 2 when I tried to
>put up the flaps. No luck. Turned out my 5A fuse had blown. We measure
>the load to the flap motor as 1.5 amps while it is traveling. Once it hits
>its limits and the clutch disengages and it simply spins, we measured 7
>amps. My wire was sized properly for a 10 amp fuse so that was my
>solution.
>No problems yet.
>
>
>---
>
>
Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bob Haan's Wig-Wag Flasher |
Ken Stribling wrote:
>
>
> I have a wig-wag switch from a police car and it doesn't work all that well
> it flashes so fast the lights don't come up to full brightness at a 1/4 mile
> out you don't really know they are working, Next time I wont waste time or
> effort putting one in I will just stick with landing lights.
>
> Ken S. Snowed In .... in Oregon
The issue of wig-wags is one that I hear quite often after folks have
seen the Galls unit in operation on my RV-6. Nearly everyone thinks the
rapidly flashing lights are pretty cool and increase visibility to
traffic in front of the plane. The descriptions of the lights often
include "razzle dazzle", "psychedelic", or similar terms.
Very early in flight testing I noticed the flash rate was fast enough to
prevent the landing lights from achieving 100% brightness during the
wig-wag cycle. Matter of fact, I even expressed concern that the system
was not as effective as it could have been if the flash rate was slower.
However, I have now decided that the Galls engineers knew what they were
doing when they incorporated the rapid flash interval. One of our local
builders had a friend build a wig-wag box for him, and they decided on a
flash interval of about 1.5 sec in order to allow the lights to achieve
full brightness. However, I have noticed that if you briefly glance at
my friend's incoming RV-4, you will only see one light illuminated; if
you glance at an incoming plane with the emergency vehicle flasher
(Galls), you see a rapid, intense "flickering" because a short glance is
long enough to see the lights complete several cycles.
I think this is why the emergency flashers are designed with such a
rapid rate. The engineers determined that the "psychedelic" appearance
of rapidly flashing lights is much more noticeable than a slower rate. I
realize this goes against what many builders might think who have not
actually compared the two flashing schemes or thought through this
issue, but I have decided that the very rapid flash rate is better for
catching the attention of other pilots even though the lights may not
technically be reaching 100% brightness.
This principle is probably borne out by the very rapid (flickering?)
strobe flash rate we often see on highway patrol and other emergency
vehicles. I don't think it is just an accident (no pun...) that the
lights are designed that way. The key to having efficient collision
avoidance lights is to command attention with even a short glance. The
rapid flash rates are better in this regard.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 430 hrs)
"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ah, to times past |
I have a friend in this same situation. What was the stuff you used?
Jeff Point
RV-6 finish kit
Milwaukee WI
cecilth(at)juno.com wrote:
>
>Gee Wheeler, If you had menchioned it I would have told you which
>chemical I used to take my white plastic off after it sittin for three
>years. Was easy.
>Cecil
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Chemical for removig white plastic? |
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
I used stuff I think is called goop off. We used it to strip paint off a
Cessna. Got it at home depot.
Its a strong paint stripper. Directions say, use a brush to apply. I was
a smart ass and used heavy rubber gloves instead and near took my finger
prints off. So do go by the directions. The stuff goes tru the paint or
plastic same as it did my gloves, it bubbles up as it seperates and you
just wash it off with water, easy as pie.
Did I say go by the directions sure?
Cecil Hatfield
<elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com> writes:
> <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
>
> Re your posting, well, what was it? When I received my kit in 1995,
> there were 69 pieces of aluminum cuttings, scrap sheet-ends, various
> gauges, packed in the boxes. I would say there was about 20 lbs
> worth, with a note from Van's packers saying it was "a gift for
> making that custom bracket---"! Well, most of them have the white
> stuff on them. I have used a few of the thicker gauge pieces, and
> like most of the kit sheets it was a #$!*~!&* job to get it off!
> Please let us know your chemical secret!
> Regards,------- Henry
> elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com
>
>
>
> Contribution
> Gifts!
> Admin.
> _->
>
> messages.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Imfairings(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Re RV-6A Intersection Fairings |
Jim,
Thanks for the suggestions. Why didn't I think of that?
I'm about to add the -6A/-7A to the picture picture page and I'll see if my
lady, the computer guru, can do that for us.
In regard to your email regarding questions about the gear legs:
My parts are built on Van's pressure recovery wheel pants and 'glass gear leg
fairings. You will need to buy the pressure recovery wheel pants and 'glas
gear leg fairings from Van. You can purchase your upper and lower gear leg
fairings from me.
My upper main gear fairings will locate the gear leg fairings so they
eliminate the need to do all the lay out work required by Van.
The -6A isn't on the web sit yet, but they look much like the -6. If you
have further questions, call my cell phone: 425-330-7147.
Bob
www.fairings-etc.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Imfairings(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A Intersection Fairings |
Good Afternoon,
A local -9A just popped up. We'll try the -6A for fit. If it doesn't fit,
I'll make new molds. I will keep you informed.
Bob
www.fairings-etc.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miller Robert <rmiller3(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A Intersection Fairings |
Hot dog!
If the 9A fairings look as nice as the others on your site, consider at least
one set sold.
(... uh, others will probably be interested as well)
Robert
Imfairings(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Good Afternoon,
>
> A local -9A just popped up. We'll try the -6A for fit. If it doesn't fit,
> I'll make new molds. I will keep you informed.
>
> Bob
> www.fairings-etc.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Christmas is coming |
For wives only- Christmas is coming, will include Christmas wrapping paper
with the purchase of either:
* Proprietary Software Systems AOA system, sport model- $650.00 + shipping.
*Team Rocket 6A/ 7A/ 8A/ 9A gearleg intersection fairings. Will fit either
Vans's or Team Rockets pressure recovery wheelpants. Must use Team Rockets
gearleg fairings (not included). Great (!) glass work. $100. + shipping.
Sold airplane before could install either. New and unused.
B.Clary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Bob Haan's Wig-Wag Flasher |
Which Galls flasher do you have? I see 1.9 and 3 flashes/second
flashers in their catalog.....
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Buchanan
> Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2002 1:54 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Bob Haan's Wig-Wag Flasher
>
>
>
>
> Ken Stribling wrote:
> >
>
> >
> > I have a wig-wag switch from a police car and it doesn't work all
> > that well it flashes so fast the lights don't come up to full
> > brightness at a 1/4 mile out you don't really know they are
> working,
> > Next time I wont waste time or effort putting one in I will
> just stick
> > with landing lights.
> >
> > Ken S. Snowed In .... in Oregon
>
>
> The issue of wig-wags is one that I hear quite often after
> folks have seen the Galls unit in operation on my RV-6.
> Nearly everyone thinks the rapidly flashing lights are pretty
> cool and increase visibility to traffic in front of the
> plane. The descriptions of the lights often include "razzle
> dazzle", "psychedelic", or similar terms.
>
> Very early in flight testing I noticed the flash rate was
> fast enough to prevent the landing lights from achieving 100%
> brightness during the wig-wag cycle. Matter of fact, I even
> expressed concern that the system was not as effective as it
> could have been if the flash rate was slower.
>
> However, I have now decided that the Galls engineers knew
> what they were doing when they incorporated the rapid flash
> interval. One of our local builders had a friend build a
> wig-wag box for him, and they decided on a flash interval of
> about 1.5 sec in order to allow the lights to achieve full
> brightness. However, I have noticed that if you briefly
> glance at my friend's incoming RV-4, you will only see one
> light illuminated; if you glance at an incoming plane with
> the emergency vehicle flasher (Galls), you see a rapid,
> intense "flickering" because a short glance is long enough to
> see the lights complete several cycles.
>
> I think this is why the emergency flashers are designed with
> such a rapid rate. The engineers determined that the
> "psychedelic" appearance of rapidly flashing lights is much
> more noticeable than a slower rate. I realize this goes
> against what many builders might think who have not actually
> compared the two flashing schemes or thought through this
> issue, but I have decided that the very rapid flash rate is
> better for catching the attention of other pilots even though
> the lights may not technically be reaching 100% brightness.
>
> This principle is probably borne out by the very rapid
> (flickering?) strobe flash rate we often see on highway
> patrol and other emergency vehicles. I don't think it is just
> an accident (no pun...) that the lights are designed that
> way. The key to having efficient collision avoidance lights
> is to command attention with even a short glance. The rapid
> flash rates are better in this regard.
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 430 hrs)
> "The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
>
>
> ===========
> Contribution
> Free Gifts!
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Inboard fuel tank Z-bracket |
Ken
You may want to leave these nutplates off till the top and bottom inner main skins
have been riveted on. Most builders leave the inner 2 main ribs un riveted
till installation of the lower main skins. By only clecoing these ribs in, they
can be removed for access to buck the rivets between the #3 rib flanges and
both top & bottom main skins. After the #3 rib is riveted, install the #2 main
rib and repeat the process. Lastly install the #1 rib and repeat. Getting these
2 ribs in or out (without scratching them up) is much harder with those 3
nutplates installed.
I installed those 3 nutplates after all the skins were done.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8A fuselage
>
>The plans aren't real clear on when the platenuts for the inboard Z bracket
>get installed on the main spar. It seems like it would get done when your
>installing the other b-zillion or so platenuts to the spar. Is there some
>reason not to do it now (before attaching the ribs)? Dan Checkoway's
>excellent description on fitting the fuel tanks implies that it should be
>done at the time the tanks are fitted.
>
>Ken
>8 (wings)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bob Haan's Wig-Wag Flasher |
Larry, here are the details of the Galls flasher installation in my
RV-6:
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/panel4.html
The link to the product is outdated in my article; here is the new link
I just found:
http://www.galls.com/shop/viewProductDetail.jsp?item=FS020
(Well, I just updated it, so the link is good now.)
According to the spec sheet for the FS020, the flash cycle is 3 hz +-
10%.
Sam Buchanan
================================
Larry Bowen wrote:
>
>
> Which Galls flasher do you have? I see 1.9 and 3 flashes/second
> flashers in their catalog.....
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Buchanan
> > Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2002 1:54 PM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Bob Haan's Wig-Wag Flasher
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Ken Stribling wrote:
> > >
> >
> > >
> > > I have a wig-wag switch from a police car and it doesn't work all
> > > that well it flashes so fast the lights don't come up to full
> > > brightness at a 1/4 mile out you don't really know they are
> > working,
> > > Next time I wont waste time or effort putting one in I will
> > just stick
> > > with landing lights.
> > >
> > > Ken S. Snowed In .... in Oregon
> >
> >
> > The issue of wig-wags is one that I hear quite often after
> > folks have seen the Galls unit in operation on my RV-6.
> > Nearly everyone thinks the rapidly flashing lights are pretty
> > cool and increase visibility to traffic in front of the
> > plane. The descriptions of the lights often include "razzle
> > dazzle", "psychedelic", or similar terms.
> >
> > Very early in flight testing I noticed the flash rate was
> > fast enough to prevent the landing lights from achieving 100%
> > brightness during the wig-wag cycle. Matter of fact, I even
> > expressed concern that the system was not as effective as it
> > could have been if the flash rate was slower.
> >
> > However, I have now decided that the Galls engineers knew
> > what they were doing when they incorporated the rapid flash
> > interval. One of our local builders had a friend build a
> > wig-wag box for him, and they decided on a flash interval of
> > about 1.5 sec in order to allow the lights to achieve full
> > brightness. However, I have noticed that if you briefly
> > glance at my friend's incoming RV-4, you will only see one
> > light illuminated; if you glance at an incoming plane with
> > the emergency vehicle flasher (Galls), you see a rapid,
> > intense "flickering" because a short glance is long enough to
> > see the lights complete several cycles.
> >
> > I think this is why the emergency flashers are designed with
> > such a rapid rate. The engineers determined that the
> > "psychedelic" appearance of rapidly flashing lights is much
> > more noticeable than a slower rate. I realize this goes
> > against what many builders might think who have not actually
> > compared the two flashing schemes or thought through this
> > issue, but I have decided that the very rapid flash rate is
> > better for catching the attention of other pilots even though
> > the lights may not technically be reaching 100% brightness.
> >
> > This principle is probably borne out by the very rapid
> > (flickering?) strobe flash rate we often see on highway
> > patrol and other emergency vehicles. I don't think it is just
> > an accident (no pun...) that the lights are designed that
> > way. The key to having efficient collision avoidance lights
> > is to command attention with even a short glance. The rapid
> > flash rates are better in this regard.
> >
> > Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 430 hrs)
> > "The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
> >
> >
> > ===========
> > Contribution
> > Free Gifts!
> > ==========
> > ==========
> > ==========
> > ==========
> >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Compton" <rdcompton(at)earthlink.net> |
For any engineeringly inclined listers out there, here's a question: Is
there any way to deduce a change in horse power of an engine based on the
rpm's it turns a given prop, (same elevation, OAT, etc.) pre- vs.
post-overhaul?
Specifically, here is what I'm looking at:
Engine: Lycoming O-320-E2C
Prop: Hendrickson
Pre-overhaul: max static rpm 2350 (120ftmsl), max rpm 7500 ft press alt
2750
Post-overhaul: max static rpm 2420 (120ftmsl), max rpm 7500 ft press alt
2870
Again, based on those numbers, is it possible to estimate the increase in
hp?
Thanks,
Randy Compton
RV-3 N84VF
Gulf Breeze, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Major web site update |
I've been spending way too much time lately doing a major web site
update. The old hard-coded html was becoming too much of a monster
to maintain. I wanted to make some major changes to it, but that
would have meant rebuilding every page. So I trashed to lot in the
dustbin, and moved to Geeklog, an open-source content management
system, or web log. It took a few late nights to get all the old
content moved over, but now that it is there I can update the project
status in a fraction of the time it used to take me.
The new site also allows viewers to add comments on most pages, plus
viewers can suggest new links for the links page. It has a pretty
good search engine built it, and users can customize their display
preferences (if they create a user name and log in). I was also able
to put most of my electrical system diagrams up on the site.
I'm eventually going to spring for a domain name, but for now the new
site is located at:
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/%7Ekhorton/rv8
Time to get building again,
Kevin Horton
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bob Haan's Wig-Wag Flasher |
The rapid flash rate is definitely more eye-catching than a slower/brighter
flash for daylight operations. At night I leave them on wig-wag as well
(just remember to switch to "steady on" for landing, yikes! - Psychedelic
runway is somewhat disorienting). I think an added benefit is the bulbs
last longer because they don't go to full brightness, nor do they go off
completely. I changed one at 450 hours, the other one has 530 on it.
Everyone that sees them says it's amazing how noticeable they are.
Ed Bundy RV6A 500+ hours
Boise, ID
> The issue of wig-wags is one that I hear quite often after folks have
> seen the Galls unit in operation on my RV-6. Nearly everyone thinks the
> rapidly flashing lights are pretty cool and increase visibility to
> traffic in front of the plane. The descriptions of the lights often
> include "razzle dazzle", "psychedelic", or similar terms.
>
> However, I have now decided that the Galls engineers knew what they were
> doing when they incorporated the rapid flash interval. One of our local
> builders had a friend build a wig-wag box for him, and they decided on a
> flash interval of about 1.5 sec in order to allow the lights to achieve
> full brightness. However, I have noticed that if you briefly glance at
> my friend's incoming RV-4, you will only see one light illuminated; if
> you glance at an incoming plane with the emergency vehicle flasher
> (Galls), you see a rapid, intense "flickering" because a short glance is
> long enough to see the lights complete several cycles.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV7, fuse, odds and ends. |
Have any of you RV7 builders noticed any of the following:
1. Instead of four 1" diameter grommets (2 for the fuel line holes through
the side skin and 2 for the hole through the cover in front of the main
spar), you got 2 of the right size and 2 smaller grommets ?
2. When putting the brake pedals together, the lower outboard and the lower
inboard bolts on each pedal are AN3-5, and looks like the outboard one
should be AN3-4 ? (infact the R1 note says the bolt size changed, from -4 to
-5).
3. On the forward half of the F-704 bulkhead, there are 4 holes that are not
rivetted. I am NOT referring to the 12 bolts that attach the landing gear
mount in the case of the RV-7A, or attach the F-704 components to each
other. I am referring to holes that are right next or one over from the hole
that is used for the spacer bolt.
Thanks,
Amit dagan.
PS - Dan C., I never got any response for the request for dimensions of the
canopy latch template.
MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE*
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Rozema <hartist1(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RPM's vs. HP |
If you want to know how the guys used to do it in UNengineering days before
computers and dynamometers, etc.. Before you make a modification, you
determine the static thrust of any given combination of "stuff". How do you
do that, you say?
First, you get a hunting scale, a spring loaded brass thingy usually (granddad
called it a butcher's scale) You chain the tail of your plane to a tree,
corner of the hanger or the hitch on your big ol' SUV with the scale attached
to the tail. Now, you need some buddy who's not to smart to stand in the slip
stream and report how many pounds of thrust the scale shows by the movement of
its pointer. Hopefully more than zero and less than the weight of your SUV.
You are the one in the plane to work the starter and throttle (and tow the
SUV, if need be).
Next you change the engine, or do your overhaul, or just change props or
adjust the pitch.
Repeat the above... "First, you get a hunting.... etc.". Then, at home in
fronT of the TV you compare the various test results and you will be an
instant guru, engine, propellor, whatever, to all your friends.
Seriously, this is how it was done in the early days of aviation and it is
still a simple and good test. It is, obviously only good for performance as
static thrust, but a valid indicator of take off and climb performance ( for
cruise you will need a lighter SUV :-).
Hal
theplanefolks.net VSTOL CH701/Jab3300
Randy Compton wrote:
>
> For any engineeringly inclined listers out there, here's a question: Is
> there any way to deduce a change in horse power of an engine based on the
> rpm's it turns a given prop, (same elevation, OAT, etc.) pre- vs.
> post-overhaul?
>
> Specifically, here is what I'm looking at:
>
> Engine: Lycoming O-320-E2C
> Prop: Hendrickson
> Pre-overhaul: max static rpm 2350 (120ftmsl), max rpm 7500 ft press alt
> 2750
> Post-overhaul: max static rpm 2420 (120ftmsl), max rpm 7500 ft press alt
> 2870
>
> Again, based on those numbers, is it possible to estimate the increase in
> hp?
>
> Thanks,
> Randy Compton
> RV-3 N84VF
> Gulf Breeze, FL
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RPM's vs. HP |
>
>For any engineeringly inclined listers out there, here's a question: Is
>there any way to deduce a change in horse power of an engine based on the
>rpm's it turns a given prop, (same elevation, OAT, etc.) pre- vs.
>post-overhaul?
>
>Specifically, here is what I'm looking at:
>
>Engine: Lycoming O-320-E2C
>Prop: Hendrickson
>Pre-overhaul: max static rpm 2350 (120ftmsl), max rpm 7500 ft press alt
>2750
>Post-overhaul: max static rpm 2420 (120ftmsl), max rpm 7500 ft press alt
>2870
>
>Again, based on those numbers, is it possible to estimate the increase in
>hp?
>
>Thanks,
>Randy Compton
Randy,
I don't think we can do much with just rpm. The best bet is to look
at max true air speed at a given density altitude. Take the new TAS,
divide it by the old TAS, and then cube that number. That will tell
you approximately how much the power has increased. E.g. if you go
from 200 mph to 205 mph your power has new power is about 108% of
your original power, or an 8% increase.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (baffles, induction air, oil cooler)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Martin Hone" <martin.hone(at)tradergroup.com.au> |
Randy,
As a rough indication, my O-320 data plate (from memory) states engine output at
2600 rpm as 150hp, and at 2700rpm it is 160hp.
That would seem to suggest that the extra 100 rpm you are pulling is worth at least
ten horsepower....
Martin Hone
Corporate Advertising Manager
AMT
73 Atherton Rd.
Oakleigh. Vic. 3166
Australia.
613 9567 4145
Mobile 0419 368 696
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Armstrong <armstrbc(at)ucsub.colorado.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: RPM's vs. HP |
randy,
increase in HP will go APPROXIMATELY linearly with RPM for small changes
in RPM. HP is torque times rotational speed in proper units. so,
assuming the torque required to turn the prop is the same at both speeds
(which it's not, but it's pretty close for small changes in speed at a
constant air density), then change in HP is simply the multiplier of RPM.
in this case, it looks like you're getting about 3% increase in power
during static runup, and about 4% at cruise (assuming you're measuring RPM
repeatably, and the pressure altitude is accurate).
hope that helps...
brian armstrong
englewood, co
--
>
> For any engineeringly inclined listers out there, here's a question: Is
> there any way to deduce a change in horse power of an engine based on the
> rpm's it turns a given prop, (same elevation, OAT, etc.) pre- vs.
> post-overhaul?
>
> Specifically, here is what I'm looking at:
>
> Engine: Lycoming O-320-E2C
> Prop: Hendrickson
> Pre-overhaul: max static rpm 2350 (120ftmsl), max rpm 7500 ft press alt
> 2750
> Post-overhaul: max static rpm 2420 (120ftmsl), max rpm 7500 ft press alt
> 2870
>
> Again, based on those numbers, is it possible to estimate the increase in
> hp?
>
> Thanks,
> Randy Compton
> RV-3 N84VF
> Gulf Breeze, FL
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Knoll" <tripodcat(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | RV Wing Kit, prepunched. |
----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce Knoll
For sale a RV 6A wing kit. Have a prepunched one still in the box.
I would sell it for 3100K (you pay shipping). Its in Greeley CO. Today's price
at Vans is $4.330. This is not obo!
Bruce
tripodcat(at)msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Knoll" <tripodcat(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | RV_6 Wing Kit. Prepunched, still in box |
I have a prepunched RC-6 wing Kit, still in the box. Price $3,000 plus shipping(not
obo). Van's price today on his page is $4,330. Reply off list please.
Bruce
Greeley, CO
tripodcat(at)msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Bob Haan's Wig-Wag Flasher |
You are using the same Gall's flasher Sam is? (Galls' model FS020
Traffic Flasher.)
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ed Bundy
> Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2002 9:47 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Bob Haan's Wig-Wag Flasher
>
>
>
> The rapid flash rate is definitely more eye-catching than a
> slower/brighter flash for daylight operations. At night I
> leave them on wig-wag as well (just remember to switch to
> "steady on" for landing, yikes! - Psychedelic runway is
> somewhat disorienting). I think an added benefit is the
> bulbs last longer because they don't go to full brightness,
> nor do they go off completely. I changed one at 450 hours,
> the other one has 530 on it. Everyone that sees them says
> it's amazing how noticeable they are.
>
> Ed Bundy RV6A 500+ hours
> Boise, ID
>
> > The issue of wig-wags is one that I hear quite often after
> folks have
> > seen the Galls unit in operation on my RV-6. Nearly everyone thinks
> > the rapidly flashing lights are pretty cool and increase
> visibility to
> > traffic in front of the plane. The descriptions of the lights often
> > include "razzle dazzle", "psychedelic", or similar terms.
> >
> > However, I have now decided that the Galls engineers knew what they
> > were doing when they incorporated the rapid flash interval.
> One of our
> > local builders had a friend build a wig-wag box for him, and they
> > decided on a flash interval of about 1.5 sec in order to allow the
> > lights to achieve full brightness. However, I have noticed
> that if you
> > briefly glance at my friend's incoming RV-4, you will only see one
> > light illuminated; if you glance at an incoming plane with the
> > emergency vehicle flasher (Galls), you see a rapid, intense
> > "flickering" because a short glance is long enough to see
> the lights
> > complete several cycles.
>
>
> ===========
> Contribution
> Free Gifts!
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karie Daniel" <karied4(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Keeping the blue plastic on the skins? |
Really silly question but I've seen many builders somehow cut the blue plastic
on the skins just around the areas that need dimpling then rivets. This way I
can keep as much of the surface protected until I get ready to prime and paint.
I know a razor knife is out of the question but believe it or not I have seen this
done on some planes and it leaves behind some nasty scratches.
I've just finished the skeleton for the horizontal stabilizer and I'm getting ready
to dimple the skins.
Karie Daniel
Maple Valley, WA.
RV-7A Project
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Keeping the blue plastic on the skins? |
Hi Karie,
Use an electric soldering iron with a Weller 6110 cutting tip. polish the
edges of the blade to aviod scratches. With a little practice the blade
travel speed will get the plastic coating ready to peel very cleanly. Other
tips will work but polishing the tip to reduce scratches is important.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karie Daniel" <karied4(at)attbi.com>
Subject: RV-List: Keeping the blue plastic on the skins?
>
> Really silly question but I've seen many builders somehow cut the blue
plastic on the skins just around the areas that need dimpling then rivets.
This way I can keep as much of the surface protected until I get ready to
prime and paint.
>
> I know a razor knife is out of the question but believe it or not I have
seen this done on some planes and it leaves behind some nasty scratches.
>
> I've just finished the skeleton for the horizontal stabilizer and I'm
getting ready to dimple the skins.
>
> Karie Daniel
> Maple Valley, WA.
> RV-7A Project
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd Rudberg <todd_rudberg(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | RV7 RV8 Fuel Pump Kit. |
All,
I ordered the RV7 fuel pump kit thinking I could
shoehorn it into the RV8. That kit is for sale. $75
from Vans, you can have it for $45.
I untangled the fuel pump schematics took some
measurements and came up with a much simpler design
than Vans has for the RV8.
You can see it at www.acubedllc.com or
www.rvwoody.com.
Todd.
U2 on LAUNCH - Exclusive greatest hits videos
http://launch.yahoo.com/u2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | List Fund Raiser Continues... |
Marie Murillo
Dear Listers,
Just a quick reminder this morning that we're well into this year's Email
List Fund Raiser. Response has been great so far and there has been a lot
of interest in the Gift options. Speaking of those Gifts, I received a
sample of the Jeppesen Flight Bag from Andy Gold of the Builder's Bookstore
http://www.buildersbooks.com this weekend, and let me just say that this is
an extremely fine quality unit. Its very light, folds down into a very
small form for storage, and will hold a whole lot of your "pilot
stuff"! For a mere $50 List Contribution, one of these very nice bags
could be yours! You'll be the envy of all your friends.
Won't you make a Contribution today to support the these valuable Email
List Services? Please remember that its YOUR generosity that entirely
supports the continued operation and upgrade of the Lists. That's it - no
ads, no banners - just good clean fun; that is, with your support of course!
Please take a moment and make a generous Contribution today. It only takes
a minute using the newly redesigned Contribution Web Site where you can use
either a Credit Card, PayPal, or a Personal Check to make your donation.
The URL for the SSL Secure Contribution web site is:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
And I'd like to say a special "thank you!" to everyone one who has made
Contribution so far this year!! I really appreciate your generosity!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GRGSCHMIDT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Chemical for removig white plastic? |
I have used a product from Home Depot called "Goof Off" and it worked on the
canopy and other plastic covered parts. I also used an Adhesive remover on
some metal parts where the plastic seem to age itself on permanently. While
not all plastic comes off with the same technique or process it will come off
eventually with a heat gun in small areas or polishing wheel where
applicable.
Greg Schmidt
RV6S Finishing Avionics and rigging
N250GS Phoenix AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Phillips <ripsteel(at)edge.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV7, fuse, odds and ends. |
Amit Dagan wrote:
> 2. When putting the brake pedals together, the lower outboard and the lower
> inboard bolts on each pedal are AN3-5, and looks like the outboard one
> should be AN3-4 ? (infact the R1 note says the bolt size changed, from -4 to
> -5).
Hi Amit-
Take a look at Mike Nellis' website
at:http://bmnellis.com/BuilderIdeas/MarkPhillips.htm#rudderpedalbolt
Not flying yet, but it works really good in my shop!
From The PossumWorks in tornado-trashed Tennessee (missed US at least!)
Mark Phillips
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Curt Hoffman" <choffman9(at)cinci.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Keeping the blue plastic on the skins? |
Procedure I use, which I think is fairly common, is to use a soldering iron.
I just run it along a straight edge making a melted score line and the
plastic will separate at that point when you pull on it. Sometimes it will
tear away where the score line isn't deep enough but I didn't want to get
any score lines on the skins.
Curt Hoffman
RV-9A wings
1968 Mustang 302 convertible
Piper Cherokee N5320W
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karie Daniel" <karied4(at)attbi.com>
Subject: RV-List: Keeping the blue plastic on the skins?
>
> Really silly question but I've seen many builders somehow cut the blue
plastic on the skins just around the areas that need dimpling then rivets.
This way I can keep as much of the surface protected until I get ready to
prime and paint.
>
> I know a razor knife is out of the question but believe it or not I have
seen this done on some planes and it leaves behind some nasty scratches.
>
> I've just finished the skeleton for the horizontal stabilizer and I'm
getting ready to dimple the skins.
>
> Karie Daniel
> Maple Valley, WA.
> RV-7A Project
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Armstrong <armstrbc(at)ucsub.colorado.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: RPM's vs. HP |
i got to thinking about this problem a little more. i think my first
response makes a good first order approximation. but then i got to
thinking that it's not that tough to refine it a little for a second
order approximation. the first response held torque constant. but if you
increase the speed of the prop by 3%, and if you simplify the prop to flat
blades turning through the air, the increase in torque required to turn
the prop will be about 1.03
2. that's torque. then multiply again by the
change in speed to get power, and you get a value closer to 9%. i think
the first method is a little low, and the second is a little high (because
the flat blade going through the air assumption is a little extreme). if
i were going to estimate the change, i'd split the difference and say
5-6% (8-10 HP). i think that's about as close as you're going to get
without a better test.
another option is to come up with a detailed model spec for the engine
from the manufacturer. there should be curves for power vs. RPM. that
should answer your question more accurately. i don't know how 0-320
lycomings are, but the big bore continentals that i work with have alot of
that sort of info in the model spec.
ok, i'll quit rambling now...
brian armstrong
englewood, co
--
On Sun, 10 Nov 2002, Brian Armstrong wrote:
>
>
> randy,
>
> increase in HP will go APPROXIMATELY linearly with RPM for small changes
> in RPM. HP is torque times rotational speed in proper units. so,
> assuming the torque required to turn the prop is the same at both speeds
> (which it's not, but it's pretty close for small changes in speed at a
> constant air density), then change in HP is simply the multiplier of RPM.
> in this case, it looks like you're getting about 3% increase in power
> during static runup, and about 4% at cruise (assuming you're measuring RPM
> repeatably, and the pressure altitude is accurate).
>
> hope that helps...
>
> brian armstrong
> englewood, co
> --
>
>
> >
> > For any engineeringly inclined listers out there, here's a question: Is
> > there any way to deduce a change in horse power of an engine based on the
> > rpm's it turns a given prop, (same elevation, OAT, etc.) pre- vs.
> > post-overhaul?
> >
> > Specifically, here is what I'm looking at:
> >
> > Engine: Lycoming O-320-E2C
> > Prop: Hendrickson
> > Pre-overhaul: max static rpm 2350 (120ftmsl), max rpm 7500 ft press alt
> > 2750
> > Post-overhaul: max static rpm 2420 (120ftmsl), max rpm 7500 ft press alt
> > 2870
> >
> > Again, based on those numbers, is it possible to estimate the increase in
> > hp?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Randy Compton
> > RV-3 N84VF
> > Gulf Breeze, FL
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV7, fuse, odds and ends. |
In a message dated 11/10/02 7:54:02 PM Mountain Standard Time,
amitdagan(at)hotmail.com writes:
> Have any of you RV7 builders noticed any of the following:
>
> 1. Instead of four 1" diameter grommets (2 for the fuel line holes through
>
> the side skin and 2 for the hole through the cover in front of the main
> spar), you got 2 of the right size and 2 smaller grommets ?
>
> 2. When putting the brake pedals together, the lower outboard and the lower
>
> inboard bolts on each pedal are AN3-5, and looks like the outboard one
> should be AN3-4 ? (infact the R1 note says the bolt size changed, from -4
> to
> -5).
>
> 3. On the forward half of the F-704 bulkhead, there are 4 holes that are
> not
> rivetted. I am NOT referring to the 12 bolts that attach the landing gear
> mount in the case of the RV-7A, or attach the F-704 components to each
> other. I am referring to holes that are right next or one over from the
> hole
> that is used for the spacer bolt.
>
Same thing with my 7AQB. I thought that if I didn't run across a reason for
the missing rivets I would just put some bolts in later.
Bob Trumpfheller
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Keeping the blue plastic on the skins? |
My skins were covered with the white stuff----UGHHH! I just removed strips
of it along the hole lines for dimpling and riveting.--I have a temperature
controlled soldering station I use for transistor work, with a 40 watt iron
on which I have a round tapered tip. It's ideal to just run down, lightly,
along the skin using a straight edge, which results in a melted score line.
The strip will then peel-off nicely leaving no marks on the skin. Practice
on a piece of scrap, if you have one with the plastic on it.
Cheers!!!----Henry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Keeping the blue plastic on the skins? |
Elsa & Henry wrote:
>
>
> My skins were covered with the white stuff----UGHHH! I just removed strips
> of it along the hole lines for dimpling and riveting.--I have a temperature
> controlled soldering station I use for transistor work, with a 40 watt iron
> on which I have a round tapered tip. It's ideal to just run down, lightly,
> along the skin using a straight edge, which results in a melted score line.
> The strip will then peel-off nicely leaving no marks on the skin. Practice
> on a piece of scrap, if you have one with the plastic on it.
> Cheers!!!----Henry
>
Color me dense...........but why so much effort to keep the plastic on
the skins? Why not just strip it all off when you start assembling the
parts?
It would seem that a shop-inflicted injury to the skins serious enough
to deeply scratch the skin would not be prevented by a thin layer of
plastic, and minor scratches would be a moot point once you etch or
ScotchBrite the skins prior to painting.
Oh......I forgot...........RV builders love to obsess over stuff like
this.......... ;-)
Sam Buchanan (RV-6 with shop scratches completely covered with a layer
of paint)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WPAerial(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Keeping the blue plastic on the skins? |
i kept the plastic on until the end. than it seemed to take extra time
getting it off. this was right before i started scuffing up the surface for
paint. get what i mean?
jerry wilken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)vondane.com> |
"vansairforce"
| Subject: | Re: [rv8list] New Excel W&B Spreadsheet |
Your right... Forgot about that...
I have updated the spreadsheet...
http://vondane.com/downloads/index.htm
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Kevin Horton
Subject: Re: [rv8list] New Excel W&B Spreadsheet
>Since I was getting all kinds of requests for W&B spreadsheets for
>different RV Models, I thought I would try to make one that would
>work with all models... So, give this a try...
>
>All I ask is if you like it, please send me a $b'zillion donation! :-)
>
>http://vondane.com/downloads/index.htm
>
>-Bill
>
Bill,
Very nice job on the spreadsheet. One missing item though - Van
also recommends a different aft CG limit for aerobatics (85.3 inches
aft of datum on the RV-8). It would be nice to be able to see that
on the graph too.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (baffles, induction air, oil cooler)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com> |
| Subject: | RV Wing Kit, prepunched. |
November 02, 2002 - November 11, 2002
RV-Archive.digest.vol-nt