RV-Archive.digest.vol-nu
November 11, 2002 - November 18, 2002
$3,100,000 is pretty steep for a wing kit, Bruce......8
)
Ed Cole
Rv6A N2169D
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bruce Knoll [SMTP:tripodcat(at)msn.com]
> Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2002 7:53 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RV Wing Kit, prepunched.
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Bruce Knoll
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> For sale a RV 6A wing kit. Have a prepunched one still in the box.
> I would sell it for 3100K (you pay shipping). Its in Greeley CO. Today's
> price at Vans is $4.330. This is not obo!
>
> Bruce
> tripodcat(at)msn.com
>
>
>
>
>
Maxim Home Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com
Products Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com/MaximProducts/products.htm
New Products:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/new_products.cfm
Datasheets:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/l_datasheet3.cfm
The information contained in this message is confidential
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If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender
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________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Keeping the blue plastic on the skins? |
Sam, the white stuff was terrible to remove with lots of curses to Van's for
masochistically having imposed that on us........Just postponing the
inevitable, later, I guess!!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | Re: Keeping the blue plastic on the skins? |
Elsa & Henry wrote:
>
>
> Sam, the white stuff was terrible to remove with lots of curses to Van's for
> masochistically having imposed that on us........Just postponing the
> inevitable, later, I guess!!!!!
But...but.....the longer you wait.......the worse it gets!! ;-)
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Keeping the blue plastic on the skins? |
From: | <cammie(at)sunvalley.net> |
I've been using a soldering iron to remove a strip of the blue plastic
around the rivets, but I don't see the point of using a straight edge.
Freehand is quicker and works just as well.
Cammie
ready to seal fuel tanks
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dean Pichon" <DeanPichon(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | How to find an oil leak |
I have an oil leak somewhere in the vicinity of the engine's accessory case in
my -4. The leak is too small to easily determine the location, but large enough
to make a mess. I have heard of products that can be sprayed on suspect areas
and somehow indicate the presence of a leak after a test flight. If any Listers
have any information regarding such a product I would appreciate a lead.
Dean Pichon
RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
Subject: | Re: How to find an oil leak |
NAPA sells fluorescent dey you can put in the oil.
get a blacklight from Kmart
Gert
Dean Pichon wrote:
>
> I have an oil leak somewhere in the vicinity of the engine's accessory case in
my -4. The leak is too small to easily determine the location, but large enough
to make a mess. I have heard of products that can be sprayed on suspect areas
and somehow indicate the presence of a leak after a test flight. If any Listers
have any information regarding such a product I would appreciate a lead.
>
> Dean Pichon
> RV-4
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | HalBenjamin(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Chemical for removig white plastic? |
In a message dated 11/10/2002 11:03:24 AM Eastern Standard Time,
elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com writes:
> Well, most of them have the white stuff on them. I have used a few of the
> thicker gauge pieces, and like most of the kit sheets it was a #$!*~!&* job
> to get it off! Please let us know your chemical secret!
>
I had the same stuff on some of my wing parts. I put the parts in hot tap
water & let them sit for a few minutes....Came off fairly easily.
Hal Benjamin RV-4
Fuselage on jig
Long Island, NY
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Chris Woodhouse <chrisw3(at)cox.net> |
RV-list ,
vansairforce ,
RV 6 , RV 6 List
Subject: | Surface preparation and painting |
I would like to start a quick discussion on what the options are for
protecting the aluminum from rust and painting the airplane. Let me
start by listing my limited understanding of what the options are and
have everyone else complete the list. I don't really want to go in to
what is better, just what the options are and what the advantages and
disadvantages are.
For the interior structure:
Alodine and nothing else.
Alodine and then prime.
Just prime.
As for the primer I see 2 different main types; Zinc chromate and epoxy
primer.
I think one of the main differences between the 2 are with the epoxy
primer the surface has to be roughed up some with some fine scotch
bright or something similar but you just have to get it clean and free
of corrosion if you are using the Zinc chromate.
For Alodine, I'm not clear if you have the rough up the surface or not?
It seems to me an advantage to using only alodine on the interior
structure is it will be more conductive and you won't have to worry
about grounding wires running all over the place and it doesn't add much
weight.
Another thing I'm not sure on is the inside of the skins. I know most
people put some kind of protection on the skeleton but what about the
inside of the skin.
For the out side:
I am guessing all the same options apply but does anyone alodine the
outside of the plane?
Now we have to paint the primed surface. Does the kind of paint
determine the primer? And are standard automotive paints fine for an
airplane?
What about the fiberglass parts do you have to use a different primer on
them?
Finally I have heard about primers that require you to apply the paint
with in a short time after the primer. Is this true and what type of
primers are like that?
Thanks in advance for everyone's input
--
Chris Woodhouse
3147 SW 127th St.
Oklahoma City, OK 73170
405-691-5206 (home)
chrisw(at)programmer.net
N35 20.492'
W97 34.342'
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Craig Warner" <cwarner(at)twcny.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: How to find an oil leak |
NAPA Auto stores have a dye that is put into the oil, the engine is then run
till it's hot. A black light will cause the dye to glow bright green. If you
get to much of a dye showing the first time just degrease the dye off and
run the engine less the second time. Becareful when you put the dye in not
to spill, You do need an area where you can get the engine into a dark area.
Preferably at night.
Craig Warner (bought partially started kit from 92 & am still sorting out
the parts)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dean Pichon" <DeanPichon(at)msn.com>
Subject: RV-List: How to find an oil leak
>
> I have an oil leak somewhere in the vicinity of the engine's accessory
case in my -4. The leak is too small to easily determine the location, but
large enough to make a mess. I have heard of products that can be sprayed on
suspect areas and somehow indicate the presence of a leak after a test
flight. If any Listers have any information regarding such a product I would
appreciate a lead.
>
> Dean Pichon
> RV-4
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright(at)adelphia.net> |
Subject: | Re: How to find an oil leak |
I tried this very approach, and the black light didn't "bring out" the dye
in the oil. Dunno if I had a bad light, or a bad batch of dye, or if
something else caused the problem. I finally found a couple of the leaks
by cleaning the engine, getting it hot, then immediately de-cowling and
looking for the leaks (note, found does not necessarily mean fixed).
Also, a trusting friend of mine stood adjacent to the running, decowled
engine and identified one particularly bothersome leak that we couldn't find
with any other method.
Kyle Boatright
RV-6 Slider, 0-320/Aymar-Demuth
Cartersville, GA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gert" <gert(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: How to find an oil leak
>
> NAPA sells fluorescent dey you can put in the oil.
>
> get a blacklight from Kmart
>
> Gert
>
> Dean Pichon wrote:
>
> >
> > I have an oil leak somewhere in the vicinity of the engine's accessory
case in my -4. The leak is too small to easily determine the location, but
large enough to make a mess. I have heard of products that can be sprayed on
suspect areas and somehow indicate the presence of a leak after a test
flight. If any Listers have any information regarding such a product I would
appreciate a lead.
> >
> > Dean Pichon
> > RV-4
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steve J Hurlbut" <sjhdcl(at)kingston.net> |
I'm drilling the hole in the panel for the AK-450 ELT faceplate.
There are 4 holes size #4.
How do you mount with #4 screws? There are no nutplates #4 size
which is what I prefer to use. I plan on using AN365-440A nuts instead but
any
other suggestions? The area seems a bit tight for nuts as well.
Steve Hurlbut
RV7A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
Subject: | Re: How to find an oil leak |
so, if you hold your light over the dey BEFORE you put it in the oil,
does it fluorescent then ??
Gert
Kyle Boatright wrote:
>
> I tried this very approach, and the black light didn't "bring out" the dye
> in the oil. Dunno if I had a bad light, or a bad batch of dye, or if
> something else caused the problem. I finally found a couple of the leaks
> by cleaning the engine, getting it hot, then immediately de-cowling and
> looking for the leaks (note, found does not necessarily mean fixed).
>
> Also, a trusting friend of mine stood adjacent to the running, decowled
> engine and identified one particularly bothersome leak that we couldn't find
> with any other method.
>
> Kyle Boatright
> RV-6 Slider, 0-320/Aymar-Demuth
> Cartersville, GA
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Gert" <gert(at)execpc.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: How to find an oil leak
>
>
>
>>
>>NAPA sells fluorescent dey you can put in the oil.
>>
>>get a blacklight from Kmart
>>
>>Gert
>>
>>Dean Pichon wrote:
>>
>>
>>>
>>>I have an oil leak somewhere in the vicinity of the engine's accessory
>>>
> case in my -4. The leak is too small to easily determine the location, but
> large enough to make a mess. I have heard of products that can be sprayed on
> suspect areas and somehow indicate the presence of a leak after a test
> flight. If any Listers have any information regarding such a product I would
> appreciate a lead.
>
>>>Dean Pichon
>>>RV-4
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>--
>>is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stan Blanton" <stanb(at)door.net> |
Subject: | Re: ELT & #4 screws |
>
> I'm drilling the hole in the panel for the AK-450 ELT faceplate.
> There are 4 holes size #4.
>
> How do you mount with #4 screws?
snip
I drilled and tapped the instument panel itself. I did however, have .a 090
thick panel.
Stan Blanton
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Karie Daniel" <karied4(at)attbi.com> |
Subject: | Re: Keeping the blue plastic on the skins? |
I modified my soldering iron and that does the trick. Thanks everyone for
all the responses.
Karie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Keeping the blue plastic on the skins?
> Soldering iron and a straightedge does the trick.
>
> )_( Dan
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Karie Daniel" <karied4(at)attbi.com>
> To: <>
> Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2002 10:37 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Keeping the blue plastic on the skins?
>
>
> >
> > Really silly question but I've seen many builders somehow cut the blue
> plastic on the skins just around the areas that need dimpling then rivets.
> This way I can keep as much of the surface protected until I get ready to
> prime and paint.
> >
> > I know a razor knife is out of the question but believe it or not I have
> seen this done on some planes and it leaves behind some nasty scratches.
> >
> > I've just finished the skeleton for the horizontal stabilizer and I'm
> getting ready to dimple the skins.
> >
> > Karie Daniel
> > Maple Valley, WA.
> > RV-7A Project
> >
> >
> >
Contribution
> > _-> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright(at)adelphia.net> |
Subject: | Re: How to find an oil leak |
Excellent question, but I didn't try it that way. My guess is that I got
expired dye, or the black light I bought wasn't the right wavelength or
something. If the fluorescent dye didn't usually work, I don't think it
would still be on the market, and apparently it has been out there for a
long time...
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gert" <gert(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: How to find an oil leak
>
> so, if you hold your light over the dey BEFORE you put it in the oil,
> does it fluorescent then ??
>
> Gert
>
> Kyle Boatright wrote:
>
> >
> > I tried this very approach, and the black light didn't "bring out" the
dye
> > in the oil. Dunno if I had a bad light, or a bad batch of dye, or if
> > something else caused the problem. I finally found a couple of the
leaks
> > by cleaning the engine, getting it hot, then immediately de-cowling and
> > looking for the leaks (note, found does not necessarily mean fixed).
> >
> > Also, a trusting friend of mine stood adjacent to the running, decowled
> > engine and identified one particularly bothersome leak that we couldn't
find
> > with any other method.
> >
> > Kyle Boatright
> > RV-6 Slider, 0-320/Aymar-Demuth
> > Cartersville, GA
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Gert" <gert(at)execpc.com>
> > To:
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: How to find an oil leak
> >
> >
> >
> >>
> >>NAPA sells fluorescent dey you can put in the oil.
> >>
> >>get a blacklight from Kmart
> >>
> >>Gert
> >>
> >>Dean Pichon wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>
> >>>I have an oil leak somewhere in the vicinity of the engine's accessory
> >>>
> > case in my -4. The leak is too small to easily determine the location,
but
> > large enough to make a mess. I have heard of products that can be
sprayed on
> > suspect areas and somehow indicate the presence of a leak after a test
> > flight. If any Listers have any information regarding such a product I
would
> > appreciate a lead.
> >
> >>>Dean Pichon
> >>>RV-4
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>--
> >>is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net> |
Subject: | Re: ELT & #4 screws |
Steve:
I used no. 6 flush head machine screws with self locking nylon nuts. I
mounted the unit from behind and enlarged the holes in the very narrow
plastic flange as much as I could. I originally used brass nuts and ground
a part of each nut off so it would "self lock as it seated against the
plastic. The manufacturer needs to give us a little wider mounting plate.
You can make it work, don't be worried about making the holes larger, all
the way to the edge as the nut will hold this very light panel controller
easily.
Good luck
Dave Aronson
RV4 N504rv
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve J Hurlbut" <sjhdcl(at)kingston.net>
Subject: RV-List: ELT & #4 screws
>
> I'm drilling the hole in the panel for the AK-450 ELT faceplate.
> There are 4 holes size #4.
>
> How do you mount with #4 screws? There are no nutplates #4 size
> which is what I prefer to use. I plan on using AN365-440A nuts instead but
> any
> other suggestions? The area seems a bit tight for nuts as well.
>
> Steve Hurlbut
> RV7A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Divan <mike1qc(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Keeping the blue plastic on the skins? |
This might be a dumb question, but how do you "polishing the tip "?
Hi Karie,
Use an electric soldering iron with a Weller 6110 cutting tip. polish the
edges of the blade to aviod scratches. With a little practice the blade
travel speed will get the plastic coating ready to peel very cleanly. Other
tips will work but polishing the tip to reduce scratches is important.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karie Daniel"
Subject: RV-List: Keeping the blue plastic on the skins?
>
> Really silly question but I've seen many builders somehow cut the blue
plastic on the skins just around the areas that need dimpling then rivets.
This way I can keep as much of the surface protected until I get ready to
prime and paint.
>
> I know a razor knife is out of the question but believe it or not I have
seen this done on some planes and it leaves behind some nasty scratches.
>
> I've just finished the skeleton for the horizontal stabilizer and I'm
getting ready to dimple the skins.
>
> Karie Daniel
> Maple Valley, WA.
> RV-7A Project
>
>
---------------------------------
U2 on LAUNCH - Exclusive medley & videos from Greatest Hits CD
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: ELT & #4 screws |
In a message dated 11/11/2002 7:26:57 PM Pacific Standard Time,
sjhdcl(at)kingston.net writes:
> How do you mount with #4 screws? There are no nutplates #4 size
> which is what I prefer to use. I plan on using AN365-440A nuts instead but
> any
> other suggestions? The area seems a bit tight for nuts as well.
Who says there are no #4 nutplates. Heck, I even have #2 nutplates. Don't
assume that just because ACS doesn't have something, that it doesn't exist.
Now having said that, all-metal nutplates are sometimes difficult to thread
into with Phillips (cross-recess) head screws, especially as the fastener
size gets smaller, such that you may end up stripping the driving recess or
the shank may fail in torsion before you overcome the high prevailing torque
of the thread-form. So, using anything smaller than an 8-32 screw/nutplate
combination can be tricky. Use some molydisulfide lube on the entry threads
to ensure that this doesn't happen to you.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 575hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | adrianchick <adrianchick(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | priming of sanded areas on wings |
I have sanded and scotchbrited several places on the wing skins, thus
removing the alclad. Does any surface that has been sanded as such need to
be primed to prevent corosion?
Adrian
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
Subject: | Re: Keeping the blue plastic on the skins? |
The short answer:
To polish the tip first use 600 grit 'wet and dry' sandpaper. Then if you
want it smoother a small buffing wheel tip in a Dremal tool or some
polishing compound on a shop rag for a minute or two.
The verbose reply;
A little about polishing:
The trick about polishing most materials is to start with a sandpaper grit
that is not quite as course as the surface you want to polish.
The idea is to scratch off the unwanted surface roughness while avoiding
making scratches that the next finer grit cannot easily remove.
The term "wet and dry" used in the "short answer" refers to a type of
sandpaper that can be immersed in water and or other liquids, lacquer
thinners, solvents, etc.while working with it the water et. al. serves both
as a lubricant and keeps the grit from loading up
Sandpaper grits start at something like 40 grit (forty sharp crushed rock
bits per square foot!) :-)! and go down to a fineness of at least about 2000
grit
After a series of ever finer sandpaper grits we move on to polishing
compounds. Again there are a series of compound grits that will eventually
bring up a shine as bright or brighter than polished nickel chrome. Most of
these grits are carried in a lubricating past or liquid that is designed to
provide the desired results. Often the liquids in the specifically named
polishes, i.e..Silvo and Brasso, have chemicals in them that are mildly
corrosive to the metal. these are meant to work at the molecular level and
thusly aid in obtaining that sought after very bright shine.
Jewelers rouge is one among the finer group of compounds that comes in a
stick form.
For instance starting with a flat side of a piece of rough sand cast
aluminum fitting:
A double bastard file to cut down the roughness.
A finer file to cut away the roughness left by the double bastard file.
220 sandpaper to cut away the remaining fine file marks.
320 sandpaper to cut away the 220...
400 grit, then 600 grit and so on past 2000 grit and onto the polishing
compounds.
Depending upon the material at hand, steel, brass, copper, etc. and the
desired finish you can sometimes skip one or more steps.
Often people impatiently skip a step or steps and end up working harder and
longer than actually needed.
lessons form the boyhood years that by now probably are outdated a bit.
the sparkle of sunlight off those brass hull fittings for the boat sure made
me proud though.
This is stuff that most of you know, but, just in case some don't.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Divan" <mike1qc(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Keeping the blue plastic on the skins?
>
>
> This might be a dumb question, but how do you "polishing the tip "?
Jewell"
>
> Hi Karie,
>
> Use an electric soldering iron with a Weller 6110 cutting tip. polish the
> edges of the blade to aviod scratches. With a little practice the blade
> travel speed will get the plastic coating ready to peel very cleanly.
Other
> tips will work but polishing the tip to reduce scratches is important.
>
> Jim in Kelowna
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
Subject: | Re: priming of sanded areas on wings |
Hello Adrian,
The environment that your material is in will dictate how fast primmer
should be applied after scowering. next to ocean or larger lakes? or desert?
However no matter what the environment, the longer it is left bare the more
work it will be to prep for paint later.
A simple thing to do is use a spray can primer or paint that will wash off
later with MEK or Lacquer thinners. to provide a seal for the meantime. Just
be sure it will be compatible with the finish paint and will wash off easily
after fully setting!
Cover the local areas in question and get on with building that airplane.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "adrianchick" <adrianchick(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: priming of sanded areas on wings
>
> I have sanded and scotchbrited several places on the wing skins, thus
> removing the alclad. Does any surface that has been sanded as such need
to
> be primed to prevent corosion?
>
>
> Adrian
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: ELT & #4 screws |
I used #4 elastic self locking nuts from aviation aisle at ACE Hardware.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond OK
RV6 N296JC(res)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve J Hurlbut" <sjhdcl(at)kingston.net>
Subject: RV-List: ELT & #4 screws
>
> I'm drilling the hole in the panel for the AK-450 ELT faceplate.
> There are 4 holes size #4.
>
> How do you mount with #4 screws? There are no nutplates #4 size
> which is what I prefer to use. I plan on using AN365-440A nuts instead but
> any
> other suggestions? The area seems a bit tight for nuts as well.
>
> Steve Hurlbut
> RV7A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Huft" <rv8tor(at)lazy8.net> |
Subject: | How to find an oil leak |
I'm not sure about the black light thread in response here...if you can see
the oil, why do you need dye and a black light?
The way I do it is to clean it up well, then spray a white powder on
everything. I have used flour (on car engines) and magnaflux developer
(works great but is expensive). I have been told Dr. Scholl's foot powder
works well. Start with short runs, and then longer until you get a leak, and
it will show up very well.
Good luck
John Huft, Pagosa Springs, CO
RV8 7.8 hours
Still collecting pictures for an RV album...
send the pics to webmaster(at)lazy8.net
see the album at www.lazy8.net/rv8.html
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dean Pichon
Subject: RV-List: How to find an oil leak
I have an oil leak somewhere in the vicinity of the engine's accessory case
in my -4. The leak is too small to easily determine the location, but large
enough to make a mess. I have heard of products that can be sprayed on
suspect areas and somehow indicate the presence of a leak after a test
flight. If any Listers have any information regarding such a product I would
appreciate a lead.
Dean Pichon
RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | -8 Strobe Power Position? |
Builders,
Where are you mounting your onboard strobe power supply in the 8? I have
wingtip and tail strobes. Thanks in advance.
Jack Blomgren, Red Wing, MN
-8 fuselage
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | Re: ELT & #4 screws |
I found that the little self-tapping screws supplied with R/C model
servos were perfect for attaching the ACK ELT panel to the RV-6 panel.
Don't know what size they are, but I drilled the holes in the instrument
panel a little undersize, then ran the screws directly into the panel;
no nuts to fool with and they have stayed tight for 430 hrs.
Sam Buchanan
==============================
David Aronson wrote:
>
>
> Steve:
> I used no. 6 flush head machine screws with self locking nylon nuts. I
> mounted the unit from behind and enlarged the holes in the very narrow
> plastic flange as much as I could. I originally used brass nuts and ground
> a part of each nut off so it would "self lock as it seated against the
> plastic. The manufacturer needs to give us a little wider mounting plate.
> You can make it work, don't be worried about making the holes larger, all
> the way to the edge as the nut will hold this very light panel controller
> easily.
> Good luck
> Dave Aronson
> RV4 N504rv
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve J Hurlbut" <sjhdcl(at)kingston.net>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: ELT & #4 screws
>
> >
> > I'm drilling the hole in the panel for the AK-450 ELT faceplate.
> > There are 4 holes size #4.
> >
> > How do you mount with #4 screws? There are no nutplates #4 size
> > which is what I prefer to use. I plan on using AN365-440A nuts instead but
> > any
> > other suggestions? The area seems a bit tight for nuts as well.
> >
> > Steve Hurlbut
> > RV7A
> >
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mark Phillips <ripsteel(at)edge.net> |
Subject: | Re: How to find an oil leak |
Is heat a required component? My engine is mounted on a rotatable stand and has
a very slow seepage, the source of which I can't locate- I rotate the engine
regularly and occasionally hook up the starter and spin it til oil pressure shows
(have a gauge hooked to it) for 15 seconds or so. Any idea if the dye would show
after cleaning the case thoroughly and the seepage recur? (which it does) Also,
does the product indicate any problem from having it in the engine for prolonged
periods (will probably be another year before it is resurrected)
Thanks-Mark
Kyle Boatright wrote:
>
> Excellent question, but I didn't try it that way. My guess is that I got
> expired dye, or the black light I bought wasn't the right wavelength or
> something. If the fluorescent dye didn't usually work, I don't think it
> would still be on the market, and apparently it has been out there for a
> long time...
>
> KB
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Gert" <gert(at)execpc.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: How to find an oil leak
>
> >
> > so, if you hold your light over the dey BEFORE you put it in the oil,
> > does it fluorescent then ??
> >
> > Gert
> >
> > Kyle Boatright wrote:
> >
>
> > >
> > > I tried this very approach, and the black light didn't "bring out" the
> dye
> > > in the oil. Dunno if I had a bad light, or a bad batch of dye, or if
> > > something else caused the problem. I finally found a couple of the
> leaks
> > > by cleaning the engine, getting it hot, then immediately de-cowling and
> > > looking for the leaks (note, found does not necessarily mean fixed).
> > >
> > > Also, a trusting friend of mine stood adjacent to the running, decowled
> > > engine and identified one particularly bothersome leak that we couldn't
> find
> > > with any other method.
> > >
> > > Kyle Boatright
> > > RV-6 Slider, 0-320/Aymar-Demuth
> > > Cartersville, GA
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Gert" <gert(at)execpc.com>
> > > To:
> > > Subject: Re: RV-List: How to find an oil leak
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >>
> > >>NAPA sells fluorescent dey you can put in the oil.
> > >>
> > >>get a blacklight from Kmart
> > >>
> > >>Gert
> > >>
> > >>Dean Pichon wrote:
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>>
> > >>>I have an oil leak somewhere in the vicinity of the engine's accessory
> > >>>
> > > case in my -4. The leak is too small to easily determine the location,
> but
> > > large enough to make a mess. I have heard of products that can be
> sprayed on
> > > suspect areas and somehow indicate the presence of a leak after a test
> > > flight. If any Listers have any information regarding such a product I
> would
> > > appreciate a lead.
> > >
> > >>>Dean Pichon
> > >>>RV-4
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>
> > >>--
> > >>is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > --
> > is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Torque Technique for AN Hardware |
From: | Don.Alexander(at)AstenJohnson.com |
11/12/2002 09:49:28 AM
A few questions to the list regarding how to torque AN bolts:
1) If you torque beyond the target value, should you toss the hardware in
the trash and start over with a fresh nut/bolt, or is it ok to back down,
then creep back up to target?
2) If you use any sort of lubricant, should the target torque value be
modified?
3) Is it ok to use LocTite (sp?) on platenuts and with nylon lock nuts?
Any other traps to look out for?
Don Alexander
RV-8A fuel tanks
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave Ford" <dford(at)michweb.net> |
I am at the point of just mounting cowl, have trimmed to fit, mounted hinges and
can only get side horizontal hinge pin removed & inserted by using a drill.
I suspect they will loosen after time but is there a lubricant I should use?
Sandpaper to pin? Will it eventually loosen itself up or will I need to carry
a drill around with me?
Dave Ford
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: -8 Strobe Power Position? |
>
>Builders,
>
>Where are you mounting your onboard strobe power supply in the 8? I have
>wingtip and tail strobes. Thanks in advance.
>
>Jack Blomgren, Red Wing, MN
>-8 fuselage
>
I put mine just forward of the elevator bellcrank. A picture can be seen
at:
http://geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/9656/fuselage3.html
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
Grind a point on the pins, and smooth the entire hinge pin down with emery
cloth. Be sure to wash them when you are done, to avoid any grit getting in
the hinges. Also, do not lubricate the hinge pins. It will only collect
dirt and make matters worse! (Ask me how I know) They will loosen up over
time. If they are still too tight, consider getting van's narrow hinge pins
for the sides as well as the top.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Ford" <dford(at)michweb.net>
Subject: RV-List: cowl hinge
>
> I am at the point of just mounting cowl, have trimmed to fit, mounted
hinges and can only get side horizontal hinge pin removed & inserted by
using a drill. I suspect they will loosen after time but is there a
lubricant I should use? Sandpaper to pin? Will it eventually loosen itself
up or will I need to carry a drill around with me?
>
> Dave Ford
> RV6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
Subject: | First time engine run |
Well, another milestone has passed in my RV building experience. I ran the
motor for the first time this weekend! It was so exciting driving my truck
down to the gas pumps with my gas cans. I bought the first gas for MY
airplane! I was a little nervous because I had never leak tested the tanks.
So I poured in 10 gallons and started looking for drips. None! (and no
blue stains 3 days later). I turned the boost pump on to get the fuel into
the plumbing and ... Auuuuuuuggh! Gas in the cockpit. All the fuel lines
were finger tight from the boost pump (just downstream of the fuel selector)
all the way to the engine-driven pump! Lesson number 1 in fuel management:
when you're building your plane, never leave a fuel line only finger tight,
ever! Don't even answer the phone planning to come back and tighten them.
Do it now.
An A&P friend helped me do some last minute checks of the motor before we
started it. He found a few more finger tight oil lines. (I'll spare you
the names I called myself.) He also pre-oiled the engine for me. Finally
the time came, everything looked good. I hopped in, called clear prop and
about five blades later she roared to life! What a rush! I'd like to tell
you more but I was too excited to take any notes! This showed me that I'm
going to have to have so very clear checklists and test cards for my next
series of ground runs and ultimately my test flight. If the ground run was
this exciting I can't imagine what the first flight will be like!
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Manager
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
First time engine run
Well, another milestone has passed in my RV building experience. I ran the motor
for the first time this weekend! It was so exciting driving my truck down to
the gas pumps with my gas cans. I bought the first gas for MY airplane! I was
a little nervous because I had never leak tested the tanks. So I poured in 10
gallons and started looking for drips. None! (and no blue stains 3 days later).
I turned the boost pump on to get the fuel into the plumbing and ... Auuuuuuuggh!
Gas in the cockpit. All the fuel lines were finger tight from the boost
pump (just downstream of the fuel selector) all the way to the engine-driven
pump! Lesson number 1 in fuel management: when you're building your plane, never
leave a fuel line only finger tight, ever! Don't even answer the phone planning
to come back and tighten them. Do it now.
An AP friend helped me do some last minute checks of the motor before we started
it. He found a few more finger tight oil lines. (I'll spare you the names I
called myself.) He also pre-oiled the engine for me. Finally the time came, everything
looked good. I hopped in, called clear prop and about five blades later
she roared to life! What a rush! I'd like to tell you more but I was too excited
to take any notes! This showed me that I'm going to have to have so very
clear checklists and test cards for my next series of ground runs and ultimately
my test flight. If the ground run was this exciting I can't imagine what the
first flight will be like!
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Manager
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
Subject: | Re: priming of sanded areas on wings |
Unless you're in a corrosive environment (the coast) I wouldn't worry about
it. Several years are not a problem unless it sits in a really damp and/or
salty environment. If you cover the wings with anything while in storage, be
sure to leave space between the AL and whatever's covering it.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~400 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Surface preparation and painting |
On my RV6-A, not a single piece of aluminum is not completely primed. After
scotch-brighting (3M-7447) parts that fit in my bath-tub were washed using
Amway's SA (phosphor-free) detergent. Those that didn't were washed down
with the heavy duty cleaner listed below and primed shortly thereafter to
reduce the oxidizing effects of the stuff we breathe. I handled parts after
cleaning and during priming application using latex gloves.
The primer I used is two part strontium-chromate tough epoxy/polyamide
mixed 50%-50% with the catalyst just before use.The parts can be handled 2
hours after application It adheres like the "proverbial-to-a-blanket" and
when cured is "bullet-proof". I now have 40 hours on my -6A and have not yet
put any carpeting or covering on the belly-skins and there is no sign of the
primer wearing-through there or the rudder pedals (primed the same way) or
anywhere else for that matter. I swear by it!
Manufacturer: Tristar Coatings Div. of Trebor Industries Ltd.
Product codes: 425P0076 (Green Base)
426P0077 (Yellow Base)
420C0078 Clear Catalyst
Meets specs of: Boeing de Haviland DHMS C4.01
Bombardier / Canadair CMS 565-01
DND MIL-P-23377F
SB16 Starprep Heavy Duty Cleaner.
I bought the stuff in Brampton, Ontario. Don't know where to get it
elsewhere
Cheers!! Henry
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: First time engine run |
Your experience has made me feel better. I too, in
just the last few weeks have put fuel in my tanks for
the first time and no leaks. Until we tried starting
and found I had only hand tightened the fuel pressure
line. Everybody was waving their hands to stop
cranking the engine.
It was last night when my engine came to life and like
you, I forgot to look at any of the gauges. I was to
excited. Definately, their will be a check list.
Dan DeNeal
rv6a N256GD
--- "Van Artsdalen, Scott"
wrote:
> Scott"
>
> Well, another milestone has passed in my RV building
> experience. I ran the
> motor for the first time this weekend! It was so
> exciting driving my truck
> down to the gas pumps with my gas cans. I bought
> the first gas for MY
> airplane! I was a little nervous because I had
> never leak tested the tanks.
> So I poured in 10 gallons and started looking for
> drips. None! (and no
> blue stains 3 days later). I turned the boost pump
> on to get the fuel into
> the plumbing and ... Auuuuuuuggh! Gas in the
> cockpit. All the fuel lines
> were finger tight from the boost pump (just
> downstream of the fuel selector)
> all the way to the engine-driven pump! Lesson
> number 1 in fuel management:
> when you're building your plane, never leave a fuel
> line only finger tight,
> ever! Don't even answer the phone planning to come
> back and tighten them.
> Do it now.
>
> An A&P friend helped me do some last minute checks
> of the motor before we
> started it. He found a few more finger tight oil
> lines. (I'll spare you
> the names I called myself.) He also pre-oiled the
> engine for me. Finally
> the time came, everything looked good. I hopped in,
> called clear prop and
> about five blades later she roared to life! What a
> rush! I'd like to tell
> you more but I was too excited to take any notes!
> This showed me that I'm
> going to have to have so very clear checklists and
> test cards for my next
> series of ground runs and ultimately my test flight.
> If the ground run was
> this exciting I can't imagine what the first flight
> will be like!
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
> Network Manager
> Union Safe Deposit Bank
> 209-946-5116
>
>
>
>
>
> version 5.5.2653.12">
> First time engine run
>
>
> Well, another milestone has passed in my RV building
> experience. I ran the motor for the first time this
> weekend! It was so exciting driving my truck down to
> the gas pumps with my gas cans. I bought the first
> gas for MY airplane! I was a little nervous because
> I had never leak tested the tanks. So I poured in 10
> gallons and started looking for drips. None! (and no
> blue stains 3 days later). I turned the boost pump
> on to get the fuel into the plumbing and ...
> Auuuuuuuggh! Gas in the cockpit. All the fuel lines
> were finger tight from the boost pump (just
> downstream of the fuel selector) all the way to the
> engine-driven pump! Lesson number 1 in fuel
> management: when you're building your plane, never
> leave a fuel line only finger tight, ever! Don't
> even answer the phone planning to come back and
> tighten them. Do it now.
>
>
> An AP friend helped me do some last minute checks of
> the motor before we started it. He found a few more
> finger tight oil lines. (I'll spare you the names I
> called myself.) He also pre-oiled the engine for me.
> Finally the time came, everything looked good. I
> hopped in, called clear prop and about five blades
> later she roared to life! What a rush! I'd like to
> tell you more but I was too excited to take any
> notes! This showed me that I'm going to have to have
> so very clear checklists and test cards for my next
> series of ground runs and ultimately my test flight.
> If the ground run was this exciting I can't imagine
> what the first flight will be like!
>
>
> --
>
>
> Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
>
>
> Network Manager
>
>
> Union Safe Deposit Bank
>
>
> 209-946-5116
>
>
>
> Month --
> Gifts!)
> Click on the Contribution
> Terrific Free Gifts!
> Dralle, List Admin.
> _->
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
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> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
U2 on LAUNCH - Exclusive greatest hits videos
http://launch.yahoo.com/u2
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
One common accessory case oil leak is the stud and bolt threads on those
that have the hole drilled through to the inside. The oil tracks right out
the thread groove because the stud/bolt threads don't completely fill the
hole thread channel. The gasket does you no good because it just tracks out
to the washers and spews forth from there. If someone invented a foolproof
sealing lock washer that was reasonable in cost, they would make some money
here.
On 0-360s the lower governor pad studs are below the oil level at 7.5 qts.
in the tail down position and can leak while sitting there, hangar bound.
Lycoming has a service bulletin/instruction about proper sealants in these
areas, but I don't remember the number of it.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
A likely suspect for tight cowl hinge pins is a bent eyelet(s). Run the
pin in each hinge half separately, and carefully examine the relative
position of each hinge pin. Mine were quite reasonable until I painted,
then the side pins became tougher to get in. They have s-l-o-w-l-y
loosened up after 224 hours. I did tape over the hinges during
painting, but it doesn't seem to take much.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 224 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Ford
> Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2002 9:09 AM
> To: rv list
> Subject: RV-List: cowl hinge
>
>
>
> I am at the point of just mounting cowl, have trimmed to fit,
> mounted hinges and can only get side horizontal hinge pin
> removed & inserted by using a drill. I suspect they will
> loosen after time but is there a lubricant I should use?
> Sandpaper to pin? Will it eventually loosen itself up or
> will I need to carry a drill around with me?
>
> Dave Ford
> RV6
>
>
> ===========
> Contribution
> Free Gifts!
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Pahan Ranasingha <ltdoof(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | There's a new yahoo group |
Just wanted to let you all know that there's a new yahoo group called experimental
avionics...here's the link if you want to take a look
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ExperimentalAvionics/
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
Hi Dave,
I used a bar of soap. (I will not sink to the level of suggesting a
particular brand)
Candle wax or Bees wax might work well also.
The soap worked great and will wash out with water when paint prep time
comes.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Ford" <dford(at)michweb.net>
Subject: RV-List: cowl hinge
>
> I am at the point of just mounting cowl, have trimmed to fit, mounted
hinges and can only get side horizontal hinge pin removed & inserted by
using a drill. I suspect they will loosen after time but is there a
lubricant I should use? Sandpaper to pin? Will it eventually loosen itself
up or will I need to carry a drill around with me?
>
> Dave Ford
> RV6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
Dave,
Boelube works great, dry and does not pick up dirt. Reapply about once a
month or until the pins loosen up. I did not need a drill at all with this
lubricant. I assume you sharpened the end.
Pat Hatch
RV-4, N17PH, 700 hrs
O-320, Hartzell C/S
RV-6, N44PH, 30 hrs
O-360, Hartzell C/S
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Ford" <dford(at)michweb.net>
Subject: RV-List: cowl hinge
>
> I am at the point of just mounting cowl, have trimmed to fit, mounted
hinges and can only get side horizontal hinge pin removed & inserted by
using a drill. I suspect they will loosen after time but is there a
lubricant I should use? Sandpaper to pin? Will it eventually loosen itself
up or will I need to carry a drill around with me?
>
> Dave Ford
> RV6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: -8 Strobe Power Position? |
--- Jack Blomgren wrote:
>
> Where are you mounting your onboard strobe power supply in the 8? I have
> wingtip and tail strobes. Thanks in advance.
>
> Jack Blomgren, Red Wing, MN
> -8 fuselage
I was thinking of stiffening the vertical surface of the aft baggage shelf and
mounting on the backside of it. I haven't received it yet, so I'm not sure if
it's too heavy to do this, but that's the latest idea. What do you think?
====
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
lcbowen(at)yahoo.com
http://BowenAero.com
U2 on LAUNCH - Exclusive greatest hits videos
http://launch.yahoo.com/u2
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Patty Gillies" <d020205(at)vm.sc.edu> |
Dave,
My hinges fit well until the cowl was painted. I think part of the problem
was the wait between finishing the cowl and getting painted. Anyway, I used
silicon and then tried boelube. Boelube work best. I took the cowling off
the airplane and with help ( many hands holding the cowls) run the pins in
and out many many times with a drill. The first few times putting the cowl
on it was tough, especially since the pins are inserted thru the cabin, but
by third time the cowling was put on the pins pushed through pretty easily.
It helps to have someone on the side of the cowl firmly but gently tapping
on the cowls by the hinges as you push helps lining up the eyes. Also, try
sand a point on the pin and turning the pin as you push. Good Luck!
Patty Gillies
RV-6 Flying , SC
gillies-patty(at)sc.edu
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dave Ford
Subject: RV-List: cowl hinge
I am at the point of just mounting cowl, have trimmed to fit, mounted hinges
and
can only get side horizontal hinge pin removed & inserted by using a drill.
I
suspect they will loosen after time but is there a lubricant I should use?
Sandpaper to pin? Will it eventually loosen itself up or will I need to
carry
a drill around with me?
Dave Ford
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Needed a Hartzell C2YK-1BF C/S prop for a Lycoming O-360 |
Anyone out there want to sell a new or used prop with logs? preferably
certified. Please reply with details and price.
Scott Morrow
RV-6A
smcm75(at)aol.com
703-724-0874
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: How to find an oil leak |
The white developer spray can from a dye-penetrant inspection kit is what
you are looking for. Spary it on, start the engine for a few moments, or as
long as it takes, and that stuff will help you pinpoint the leak. It washs
right off.
Mike Robertson
>From: "Dean Pichon" <DeanPichon(at)msn.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: How to find an oil leak
>Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 20:04:42 -0500
>
>
>I have an oil leak somewhere in the vicinity of the engine's accessory case
>in my -4. The leak is too small to easily determine the location, but
>large enough to make a mess. I have heard of products that can be sprayed
>on suspect areas and somehow indicate the presence of a leak after a test
>flight. If any Listers have any information regarding such a product I
>would appreciate a lead.
>
>Dean Pichon
>RV-4
>
>
STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE*
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Chris Woodhouse <chrisw3(at)cox.net> |
RV-list , RV 8 list ,
RV 8 , RV 7 List ,
RV 7 , RV 6 List ,
RV 6
In the never ending quest of ways to make an RV faster I was wondering
what could be done around the the tail wheel. From my extremely limited
knowledge of laminar flow and turbulent flow it seems that at 200 mph
that far back on the plane the air would be pretty turbulent. It also
seems that the prop wash would only amplify this effect. But still who
knows there may be something to be gained back there so I thought of a
fairly simple experiment someone who has a finished plane could try, if
someone hasn't already tried it. Back in the old days a tail dragger
was exactly that a tail "DRAGGER" no wheel just some thing to hold the
plane structure off the ground. What if someone where to take the tail
wheel (spring and all) off and replace it with a simple straight spring
sticking out the standard place. That would seem to be a pretty clean.
Obviously ground handling would be almost impossible but if you did it
on a small quite grass strip on a week day, you could get the plane on
the runway and then change it out, take off and do a quick speed check.
So anyone want to give it a try?
--
Chris Woodhouse
3147 SW 127th St.
Oklahoma City, OK 73170
405-691-5206 (home)
chrisw(at)programmer.net
N35 20.492'
W97 34.342'
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: -8 Strobe Power Position? |
>
>--- Jack Blomgren wrote:
> >
> > Where are you mounting your onboard strobe power supply in the 8? I
>have
> > wingtip and tail strobes. Thanks in advance.
> >
> > Jack Blomgren, Red Wing, MN
> > -8 fuselage
>
>I was thinking of stiffening the vertical surface of the aft baggage shelf
>and
>mounting on the backside of it. I haven't received it yet, so I'm not sure
>if
>it's too heavy to do this, but that's the latest idea. What do you think?
>
>====
>Larry Bowen
Larry,
I don't see any problem with that at all. Maybe add a couple of stiffener
angles to stabilize the mounting, but you can figure that out once you get
the baggage hold stuff installed.
Have fun.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
three years of RV8 grins
The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE*
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Tail Wheel drag |
>
>In the never ending quest of ways to make an RV faster I was wondering
>what could be done around the the tail wheel. From my extremely limited
>knowledge of laminar flow and turbulent flow it seems that at 200 mph
>that far back on the plane the air would be pretty turbulent. It also
>seems that the prop wash would only amplify this effect. But still who
>knows there may be something to be gained back there so I thought of a
>fairly simple experiment someone who has a finished plane could try, if
>someone hasn't already tried it. Back in the old days a tail dragger
>was exactly that a tail "DRAGGER" no wheel just some thing to hold the
>plane structure off the ground. What if someone where to take the tail
>wheel (spring and all) off and replace it with a simple straight spring
>sticking out the standard place. That would seem to be a pretty clean.
>Obviously ground handling would be almost impossible but if you did it
>on a small quite grass strip on a week day, you could get the plane on
>the runway and then change it out, take off and do a quick speed check.
>So anyone want to give it a try?
>
>--
>Chris Woodhouse
>3147 SW 127th St.
>Oklahoma City, OK 73170
>405-691-5206 (home)
Chris,
I applaud your "need for speed"! Still, ain't no way I'm gonna remove the
steerable tailwheel from my RV8. Speed is fine, but you can't race a plane
that you balled up into the weeds on a previous flight from lack of
directional control during a crosswind landing. Remember, in the old days,
the true tail draggers often operated from an open field, where they could
always land directly into the wind.
Keep the faith.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Chris Woodhouse <chrisw3(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: Tail Wheel drag |
Brian Denk wrote:
> Chris,
>
> I applaud your "need for speed"! Still, ain't no way I'm gonna remove the
> steerable tailwheel from my RV8. Speed is fine, but you can't race a plane
> that you balled up into the weeds on a previous flight from lack of
> directional control during a crosswind landing. Remember, in the old days,
> the true tail draggers often operated from an open field, where they could
> always land directly into the wind.
I'm not suggesting making a permanent change just a temporary one as an
experiment to see how much speed increase is possible back there. If you did
it and noticed say a 1 knot speed increase then we would know that there isn't
much point in doing anything to improve the aerodynamics back there. However
if you notice a 10 knot speed increase then work on some fairings or something
back there would be justified. So a quick flight on a calm day or at least
with consistent wind in the direction of the runway and then land change out
the tail wheel and do the flight again to see if you can go any faster with out
all that stuff back there.
--
Chris Woodhouse
3147 SW 127th St.
Oklahoma City, OK 73170
405-691-5206 (home)
chrisw(at)programmer.net
N35 20.492'
W97 34.342'
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
Subject: | Re: Tail Wheel drag |
Why don't you just make a wheel fairing for the tailwheel and put it on, and
see how it works? I've seen many wheel fairings on RV tailwheels in the
past, so they must do something. I'd think that would be a much safer
option, than having someone remove their tailwheel and fly with it.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Woodhouse" <chrisw3(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tail Wheel drag
>
>
> Brian Denk wrote:
>
> > Chris,
> >
> > I applaud your "need for speed"! Still, ain't no way I'm gonna remove
the
> > steerable tailwheel from my RV8. Speed is fine, but you can't race a
plane
> > that you balled up into the weeds on a previous flight from lack of
> > directional control during a crosswind landing. Remember, in the old
days,
> > the true tail draggers often operated from an open field, where they
could
> > always land directly into the wind.
>
> I'm not suggesting making a permanent change just a temporary one as an
> experiment to see how much speed increase is possible back there. If you
did
> it and noticed say a 1 knot speed increase then we would know that there
isn't
> much point in doing anything to improve the aerodynamics back there.
However
> if you notice a 10 knot speed increase then work on some fairings or
something
> back there would be justified. So a quick flight on a calm day or at
least
> with consistent wind in the direction of the runway and then land change
out
> the tail wheel and do the flight again to see if you can go any faster
with out
> all that stuff back there.
>
> --
> Chris Woodhouse
> 3147 SW 127th St.
> Oklahoma City, OK 73170
> 405-691-5206 (home)
> chrisw(at)programmer.net
> N35 20.492'
> W97 34.342'
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
Subject: | Re: How to find an oil leak |
Kyle Boatright wrote:
>
> Excellent question, but I didn't try it that way. My guess is that I got
> expired dye, or the black light I bought wasn't the right wavelength or
> something. If the fluorescent dye didn't usually work, I don't think it
> would still be on the market, and apparently it has been out there for a
> long time...
>
> KB
You can check the uv lamp using an ordinary $.37 postage stamp. The stamp will
glow when illuminated by uv.
Does the dye glow in the can/bottle when lit by the lamp?
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | Re: Tail Wheel drag |
Dear Mr. Insurance Man,
This letter is in regard to the RV-6 I have.....well....sorta
have....well...had, that was insured with your company. You see, I
thought I might try some speed experiments, so I, don't laugh now,
REMOVED the tail wheel and attempted a flight. The takeoff was sorta
exciting, what with P-factor and all that stuff in a high-powered
taildragger (yeah, I know, old planes had skids but they barely had
enough horsepower to get into the air).
The hospital room isn't too bad, I even found a phone jack where I can
plug in my computer to send you this email. I should be outa here in a
week or so, and then I can settle up the salvage issue with you.
Unfortunately, in all the excitement of watching the firetrucks arrive
at the crash site, I forgot to retrieve the notebook with the speed
numbers I had written down. I knew better than to attempt a landing with
a tailwheelless RV on pavement, so I "landed" on a grass strip. However,
after the tail skid tore off the plane, my memory of how the whole deal
ended is a little fuzzy, so you will have to rely on the eyewitnesses to
reconstruct events for your report.
Now.....is this gonna make my rates go up?
Yours truely,
Sam "Speedy" Buchanan
Chris Woodhouse wrote:
>
>
> Brian Denk wrote:
>
> > Chris,
> >
> > I applaud your "need for speed"! Still, ain't no way I'm gonna remove the
> > steerable tailwheel from my RV8. Speed is fine, but you can't race a plane
> > that you balled up into the weeds on a previous flight from lack of
> > directional control during a crosswind landing. Remember, in the old days,
> > the true tail draggers often operated from an open field, where they could
> > always land directly into the wind.
>
> I'm not suggesting making a permanent change just a temporary one as an
> experiment to see how much speed increase is possible back there. If you did
> it and noticed say a 1 knot speed increase then we would know that there isn't
> much point in doing anything to improve the aerodynamics back there. However
> if you notice a 10 knot speed increase then work on some fairings or something
> back there would be justified. So a quick flight on a calm day or at least
> with consistent wind in the direction of the runway and then land change out
> the tail wheel and do the flight again to see if you can go any faster with out
> all that stuff back there.
>
> --
> Chris Woodhouse
> 3147 SW 127th St.
> Oklahoma City, OK 73170
> 405-691-5206 (home)
> chrisw(at)programmer.net
> N35 20.492'
> W97 34.342'
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ski2001a(at)aol.com |
Subject: | RV's in The West Palm Beach Area |
-8 & -6,7 builders and Flyers,
I will be down in West Palm on Business on Sunday - Tuesday 11/17 to 11/19.
Any interesting -8 projects or planes in the area. I would love to check out
something on Sunday during the day or Monday evening. My -8 is in the finish
kit stages.
Tom Clark
RV-8 Fastback IO-360-A1B
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ski2001a(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Skybolt Airframe Complete |
Rv Guys & Gals pass the word around
I have a Steen Skybolt that needs a good home. I am selling it less the Engine
and this would make a good quick flying project for less that the kit parts. Professionally
built as well. Check it out, just click on the web site below. The
engine is going into my RV-8 Fastback real soon!!
http://members.cox.net/clarktm/
Tom Clark
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
Subject: | Re: First time engine run |
Congratulations, Scott!!!!
Richard Dudley
Van Artsdalen, Scott wrote:
>
>
> Well, another milestone has passed in my RV building experience. I ran the
> motor for the first time this weekend! It was so exciting driving my truck
> down to the gas pumps with my gas cans. I bought the first gas for MY
> airplane! I was a little nervous because I had never leak tested the tanks.
> So I poured in 10 gallons and started looking for drips. None! (and no
> blue stains 3 days later). I turned the boost pump on to get the fuel into
> the plumbing and ... Auuuuuuuggh! Gas in the cockpit. All the fuel lines
> were finger tight from the boost pump (just downstream of the fuel selector)
> all the way to the engine-driven pump! Lesson number 1 in fuel management:
> when you're building your plane, never leave a fuel line only finger tight,
> ever! Don't even answer the phone planning to come back and tighten them.
> Do it now.
>
> An A&P friend helped me do some last minute checks of the motor before we
> started it. He found a few more finger tight oil lines. (I'll spare you
> the names I called myself.) He also pre-oiled the engine for me. Finally
> the time came, everything looked good. I hopped in, called clear prop and
> about five blades later she roared to life! What a rush! I'd like to tell
> you more but I was too excited to take any notes! This showed me that I'm
> going to have to have so very clear checklists and test cards for my next
> series of ground runs and ultimately my test flight. If the ground run was
> this exciting I can't imagine what the first flight will be like!
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
> Network Manager
> Union Safe Deposit Bank
> 209-946-5116
>
>
>
>
> First time engine run
>
> Well, another milestone has passed in my RV building experience. I ran the motor
for the first time this weekend! It was so exciting driving my truck down
to the gas pumps with my gas cans. I bought the first gas for MY airplane! I was
a little nervous because I had never leak tested the tanks. So I poured in
10 gallons and started looking for drips. None! (and no blue stains 3 days later).
I turned the boost pump on to get the fuel into the plumbing and ... Auuuuuuuggh!
Gas in the cockpit. All the fuel lines were finger tight from the boost
pump (just downstream of the fuel selector) all the way to the engine-driven
pump! Lesson number 1 in fuel management: when you're building your plane, never
leave a fuel line only finger tight, ever! Don't even answer the phone planning
to come back and tighten them. Do it now.
>
> An AP friend helped me do some last minute checks of the motor before we started
it. He found a few more finger tight oil lines. (I'll spare you the names
I called myself.) He also pre-oiled the engine for me. Finally the time came,
everything looked good. I hopped in, called clear prop and about five blades later
she roared to life! What a rush! I'd like to tell you more but I was too
excited to take any notes! This showed me that I'm going to have to have so very
clear checklists and test cards for my next series of ground runs and ultimately
my test flight. If the ground run was this exciting I can't imagine what
the first flight will be like!
>
> --
>
> Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
>
> Network Manager
>
> Union Safe Deposit Bank
>
> 209-946-5116
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: -8 Strobe Power Position? |
In a message dated 11/12/02 1:33:40 PM Eastern Standard Time,
lcbowen(at)yahoo.com writes:
>
> --- Jack Blomgren wrote:
> >
> >Where are you mounting your onboard strobe power supply in the 8? I have
> >wingtip and tail strobes. Thanks in advance.
> >
> >Jack Blomgren, Red Wing, MN
> >-8 fuselage
>
> I was thinking of stiffening the vertical surface of the aft baggage shelf
> and
> mounting on the backside of it. I haven't received it yet, so I'm not sure
> if
> it's too heavy to do this, but that's the latest idea. What do you think?
>
> ====
> Larry Bowen
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> lcbowen(at)yahoo.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
I mounted mine behind the rear baggage bulkhead on a bracket between the two
side skin longerons. I fabricated the mounting bracket out of .032. The
bracket is permanently fixed to the longerons and the power supply screws
into plate nuts. I did the same for the ELT.
Rick McBride
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net> |
Subject: | Re: Torque Technique for AN Hardware |
1. As long as you're just a little over (as in you went past it while
torquing) just loosen it up a little and try again. If you go way over
(like accidentally using the -4 torque value on a -3 bolt) then toss it.
2. AN bolts should always be used dry unless specifically required
otherwise.
3. I imagine it would be okay on platenuts, although not really necessary.
I definitely wouldn't use it on locknuts though. Locktite is specifically
for metal to metal contact and it may even attack the nylon insert.
Ed Bundy
RV6a 550+ hours
> A few questions to the list regarding how to torque AN bolts:
>
> 1) If you torque beyond the target value, should you toss the hardware in
> the trash and start over with a fresh nut/bolt, or is it ok to back down,
> then creep back up to target?
> 2) If you use any sort of lubricant, should the target torque value be
> modified?
> 3) Is it ok to use LocTite (sp?) on platenuts and with nylon lock nuts?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson(at)mcleodusa.net> |
Subject: | Re: ELT & #4 screws |
Steve J Hurlbut wrote:
>
> I'm drilling the hole in the panel for the AK-450 ELT faceplate.
> There are 4 holes size #4.
>
> How do you mount with #4 screws? There are no nutplates #4 size
> which is what I prefer to use. I plan on using AN365-440A nuts instead but
> any
> other suggestions? The area seems a bit tight for nuts as well.
>
> Steve Hurlbut
> RV7A
>
I removed the screw hole and filed it straight and smooth across the cut off
area.
I then pushed it into a snug cut-out. Back behind I applied a small squirt of
FAA approved silastic right into each of the corners.
All of the actions I have applied to this don't cause any movement. Most
actions are actually pushing it into the panel.
If I need to take it out, I can get a knife into the area and make a couple of
slices and push it back out .
Phil, Sure wish I would stay off computer an make the RV-6 fly........
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson(at)mcleodusa.net> |
Subject: | Re: Skybolt Airframe Complete |
Ski2001a(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Rv Guys & Gals pass the word around
>
> I have a Steen Skybolt that needs a good home. I am selling it less the Engine
and this would make a good quick flying project for less that the kit parts.
Professionally built as well. Check it out, just click on the web site below.
The engine is going into my RV-8 Fastback real soon!!
>
> http://members.cox.net/clarktm/
>
> Tom Clark
>
That is too good a looking airplane to get rid of......You better keep it and finish
the RV then you will still have a biplane..
You'll be sorry.........
Phil, Pitt's S1S RV6 if I would get off this computer
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: -8 Strobe Power Position? |
Jack;
I mounted mine in the floor of the fuselage (using a double plate) just
behind the passenger footwell. Works fine.
George Kilishek
N888GK now 100+ hours
>
> >
> > --- Jack Blomgren wrote:
> > >
> > >Where are you mounting your onboard strobe power supply in the 8? I
>have
> > >wingtip and tail strobes. Thanks in advance.
> > >
> > >Jack Blomgren, Red Wing, MN
> > >-8 fuselage
>
Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
Subject: | Re: -8 Strobe Power Position? |
>
>Builders,
>
>Where are you mounting your onboard strobe power supply in the 8? I have
>wingtip and tail strobes. Thanks in advance.
>
>Jack Blomgren, Red Wing, MN
>-8 fuselage
Mine is mounted just behind the baggage compartment, on angles bolted
to brackets that are riveted to the longerons. Picture at:
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/article.php?story 021024172436385
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (baffles, induction air, oil cooler)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
Subject: | Re: Torque Technique for AN Hardware |
>
>
>A few questions to the list regarding how to torque AN bolts:
>
>1) If you torque beyond the target value, should you toss the hardware in
>the trash and start over with a fresh nut/bolt, or is it ok to back down,
>then creep back up to target?
>2) If you use any sort of lubricant, should the target torque value be
>modified?
>3) Is it ok to use LocTite (sp?) on platenuts and with nylon lock nuts?
>
>Any other traps to look out for?
>
>Don Alexander
1. The torque table in AC43.13-1B has a recommended range, and an
absolute maximum value that is quite a bit higher. That maximum
value is intended to be used with castle nuts, where after reaching
the minimum value you might possibly need to turn the nut up to
one-sixth of a turn to get the cotter pin hole to line up. So, my
take on this is that anything up to that maximum value is OK. Any
more than that and I guess it depends on what the purpose of that
bolt is, and what the consequences of a failure would be.
2. The specified torque values are for clean, dry threads. If you
add a lubricant the torque chart is no longer valid.
3. No idea.
4. Traps - if someone else is going to be torquing nuts for you
(maybe the other end is almost impossible to get to, and you are
holding the wrench so it is your arm that is jammed in that
impossible place) and they say they know how a click type torque
wrench works, get them to show you they know what they are talking
about by doing a little practice on a hardware store bolt and nut.
Otherwise that person might twist off the last bolt you have in that
length and be so mortified she won't come in the garage for months.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (baffles, induction air, oil cooler)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "gretz aero" <warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com> |
"Avionics-List" ,
"RV-List" ,
"Rocket-List" ,
"AeroElectric-List"
Subject: | Heated pitot tube prices going up |
Hello Listers,
I just found out that the price of the heated pitot tubes I sell is going up. The
manufacture notified me that beginning at the first of the year the price is
going to increase. I do not know how much yet. I am sure I will have to increase
my price as well when this happens.
I currently have a good supply of both the PH502-12CR and the AN5814 pitot tubes
in stock and will be receiving another batch at the first of next month at the
lower price. My advice is to purchase this item now before the first of the
new year and save some money.
You can order by calling me or place your order on my website at http://www.gretzaero.com I hope to hear from you soon.
Warren Gretz
Gretz Aero
720-308-0010 cell days
303-770-3811 home office, evenings and weekends
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: Torque Technique for AN Hardware |
Torque it down till it breaks. Then back off 1/2 a turn.
Barry Pote RV9a
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
Subject: | Surface preparation and painting |
Cleaning with solvent will remove oils, which will protect the aluminum
from the acid etch.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 224 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
>
> Call me crazy, but if you're going to acid etch (i.e. using
> Alumiprep), why bother cleaning it first? 8
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
Subject: | Re: ELT & #4 screws |
Hi Steve:
I have the Artex switch, I used a piece of 032 tracing the cut out and
mounting holes on it from the cut out in the instrument panel, then mounted
four # 6 anchor nuts machine counter sinking the 032 on the forward side.
Then trimmed the excess material and prosealed it to the back side of the
instrument panel holding it in place with four short #6 screws through the
panel. Left it over night then mounted the switch with four #6 round head
instrument screws to match the rest of the panel.
Eustace
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve J Hurlbut" <sjhdcl(at)kingston.net>
Subject: RV-List: ELT & #4 screws
>
> I'm drilling the hole in the panel for the AK-450 ELT faceplate.
> There are 4 holes size #4.
>
> How do you mount with #4 screws? There are no nutplates #4 size
> which is what I prefer to use. I plan on using AN365-440A nuts instead but
> any
> other suggestions? The area seems a bit tight for nuts as well.
>
> Steve Hurlbut
> RV7A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: -8 Strobe Power Position? |
Jack,
We mounted ours on the right side of the rear battery tray. This tray is
just behind the rear baggage compartment.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: -8 Strobe Power Position?
>Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 14:25:50 +0000
>
>
>Builders,
>
>Where are you mounting your onboard strobe power supply in the 8? I have
>wingtip and tail strobes. Thanks in advance.
>
>Jack Blomgren, Red Wing, MN
>-8 fuselage
>
>
>http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
>
>
Help STOP SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE*
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Subject: | -8 Strobe Power Position? |
Thanks for the thumbs up. I coincidently received my strobe power
supply today. It's the X-pak 906. It weighs 28 oz. I think it will
mount nicely as described below. The popular spot immediately forward
of the elevator bellcrank is occupied by the AP pitch servo on my plane,
so that's not an option for me.
-
Larry Bowen, RV-8 wire
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
>
> >--- Jack Blomgren wrote:
> > >
> > > Where are you mounting your onboard strobe power supply
> in the 8? I
> >have
> > > wingtip and tail strobes. Thanks in advance.
> > >
> > > Jack Blomgren, Red Wing, MN
> > > -8 fuselage
> >
> >I was thinking of stiffening the vertical surface of the aft baggage
> >shelf
> >and
> >mounting on the backside of it. I haven't received it yet,
> so I'm not sure
> >if
> >it's too heavy to do this, but that's the latest idea. What
> do you think?
> >
> >====
> >Larry Bowen
>
>
> Larry,
>
> I don't see any problem with that at all. Maybe add a couple
> of stiffener
> angles to stabilize the mounting, but you can figure that
> out once you get
> the baggage hold stuff installed.
>
> Have fun.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> three years of RV8 grins
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
Subject: | Re: Tail Wheel drag |
People often ask me how much speed gain I got from my tailwheel fairing. My
standard answer is "oh about 5-10 knots." Its amazing how many people look
at me and say "Really???" Of course I'm quick to tell them I'm joking and
that honestly I couldn't measure any speed increase.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~400 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Rudder Pedals & Truck-bed Liners |
I thought of two different ideas:
1. want your toes to "stay" on the brake pedals ? ->Use some of the material
used for the wing walks.
or:
2. want your toes to "glide" over the pedals ? ->Use some low friction tape,
also known as UHMW tape, the kind Van's sell for the flaps.
In fact, I think I will use a combination of both:
Anti-slip material on the rudder weldments' bottom and vertical tubes, and
UHMW tape on the brake pedals.
Amit.
>I was getting ready to paint - or powder coat - or chrome - my
rudderpedals
>prior to installation and it hit me that it might be slick to apply the
>spray-on truck bed liner as a finish coat. I talked with the local "Rhino
>Liner" and "Line-X" guys and they can do it in just about any color.
>
>Has anyone done this to rudder pedals (or any other cockpit surface)?
Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
Subject: | Re: RV6A Intersection Fairings |
OK Bob, I'm interested. It's an RV6A kit from 1996. Do I need upper and
lower fairings for all three wheels? My gear leg fairings and the pressure
recovery wheelpants are from Sam James. I would like to buy all the fairings
for a package price. And how about the tail fairing? I thought to have a
perfect fit one has to make his own on the plane.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Tip Up
Delta BC
>
> Norman,
>
> I make upper and lower gear leg fairings for the -6A based on Van's
pressure
> recovery wheel pants and 'glass gear leg fairings. The ones sI make would
> save you time and probably money. Check out my web site
www.fairings-etc.com
>
> Bob
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Com Antenna Splitter |
Not one bite from this querry, come on guys, some knowledge here please. Do
these things work or do they degrade radio signals?
> I would like to try using one com antenna with two radios but I am
concerned
> that I might suffer a signal loss. I bought the proper splitter box from
Bob
> Archer a few years back. He said it is very simular to the Commat one but
at
> a much better price. Does any one know if I will be suffering a loss in
> performance if I go this route?
>
> Thanks,
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Com Antenna Splitter |
I'm not familiar with the particular splitter that you are talking about
but, whenever you split a transmission line and install a connector you will
have signal loss. You will be installing two connectors and the splitter
for each radio, so it stands to reason that some signal loss will occur.
The key is to use quality components and install them correctly. Then have
them checked with an SWR meter. If you do all this, the loss should not be
to great.
Wayne
RV-8A qb
Non-Fed Navaids tech
----- Original Message -----
From: "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Com Antenna Splitter
>
> Not one bite from this querry, come on guys, some knowledge here please.
Do
> these things work or do they degrade radio signals?
>
> > I would like to try using one com antenna with two radios but I am
> concerned
> > that I might suffer a signal loss. I bought the proper splitter box from
> Bob
> > Archer a few years back. He said it is very simular to the Commat one
but
> at
> > a much better price. Does any one know if I will be suffering a loss in
> > performance if I go this route?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Norman Hunger
> > RV6A Delta BC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steve J Hurlbut" <sjhdcl(at)kingston.net> |
Subject: | Re: ELT & #4 screws |
Thankx for all the suggestions about mounting the ELT with #4 screws.
I ended up tapping the panel as per 1 suggestion and it worked great.
Thank you
Steve Hurlbut
RV7A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steve J Hurlbut" <sjhdcl(at)kingston.net> |
Subject: | 8 Strobe Power Position and ELT? |
I mounted my strobe power supply on the back of the baggage wall and it
worked great.
Easy access and completely out of the way.
What about the ELT on RV7A/RV6A?
Where did you guys end up mounting it? Can't go on the back of the baggage
wall since it must have a certain orientation. Sitting flat with arrows
pointing
forward.
Suggestions welcome
Steve Hurlbut
RV7A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Com Antenna Splitter |
>
>Not one bite from this querry, come on guys, some knowledge here please. Do
>these things work or do they degrade radio signals?
>
> > I would like to try using one com antenna with two radios but I am
Why? The reason for two com radios is redundancy. If one quits the other
is there. Today, IMHO, two com radios is a waste of money unless you will
fly IFR. But if you are going to fly IFR, one way to lose com is to lose
the antenna - so why have only one antenna?
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Com Antenna Splitter |
I would be concerned with transmit signal going from one radio into the
other one and destroying the radio that is not in use. Separate antennae
are best for each transmitter.
Any time that you split a signal it will be cut in half. (3 dB down) This
goes for Nav, Com, or TV.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,210 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Com Antenna Splitter
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 23:51:50 -0800
Not one bite from this querry, come on guys, some knowledge here please. Do
these things work or do they degrade radio signals?
> I would like to try using one com antenna with two radios but I am
concerned
> that I might suffer a signal loss. I bought the proper splitter box from
Bob
> Archer a few years back. He said it is very simular to the Commat one but
at
> a much better price. Does any one know if I will be suffering a loss in
> performance if I go this route?
>
> Thanks,
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A Delta BC
The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE*
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: 8 Strobe Power Position and ELT? |
I recently mounted my Pointer ELT and it's antenna under the VS of my RV-8. It
fit's nice and snug. Not flying yet....
-LB
--- Steve J Hurlbut wrote:
>
> I mounted my strobe power supply on the back of the baggage wall and it
> worked great.
> Easy access and completely out of the way.
>
> What about the ELT on RV7A/RV6A?
>
> Where did you guys end up mounting it? Can't go on the back of the baggage
> wall since it must have a certain orientation. Sitting flat with arrows
> pointing
> forward.
>
> Suggestions welcome
>
> Steve Hurlbut
> RV7A
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
U2 on LAUNCH - Exclusive greatest hits videos
http://launch.yahoo.com/u2
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Need an Avery 2.5" no hole yoke |
Listers,
I loaned out my 2.5" Avery no hole yoke. Part # 7745 See:
http://www.averytools.com/shopping.cfm
Unfortunately, it has not been returned. I need to purchase a replacement. Before
I call Avery, I thought I'd ask if anyone has one they would care to sell?
Charlie Kuss
(561)212-7785
________________________________________________________________________________
Amazing! I'm sorry for all you guys (Dolls?) that are having trouble with
your hinges.You obviously haven't read about how to install them like I did,
as recorded in the third issue, 1999, of the RVator, pg 7 graciously
reproduced there by Ken Scott. The secret is to install the rivets AFTER the
epoxy has set! Then the hinges are not distorted as when you do it BEFORE.
The article details how I went about it. Suffice it to say that after the
riveting, I was able to pull-out (and re-insert) the hinge pins with my
fingers!
If any builder, has still to do this work, and can't get that RVator, let me
know and I'll scan e-mail a copy. (But please try to get a copy first)!
Cheers!!!------Henry
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | Re: Bob Haan's Wig-Wag Flasher |
Norman wrote:
>
> The main reason I bought it is because it is quite. The police flasher units
> make a loud click that some listers were claiming could be heard in the Com
> but I'm not flying yet.
The only time I hear the Galls flasher relays clicking in my RV-6 is
when the engine is idling, but never as a noise in the com. The first
time I taxied in with the Galls unit running, I thought I had a valve
sticking or something......really shook me up until I figured out the
source of the tapping noise! :-)
Actually, the clicking sound at idle is a good reminder to turn the unit
off.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: First time engine run |
Dan: Didn't you do a fuel-flow test before you fired up the engine? TSK!
TSK! You would have seen your fuel leaks at that time! I don't know what the
US requirements are, but in Canada that is one of the test results
submission package that is mandatory before you can get your final
inspection by the authorities!
Here's one tip for all builders: Every bolt, threaded insert or nut in my
'plane is torque-striped. I used a syringe filled with artist's red acrylic
color. Immediately after torqueing the item, I apply a stripe of the paint
right across fastener, bridging the washer (or what ever) and contacting the
mating surface. I did that "religiously". If I find that a fastener has no
stripe, I check the torque again and stripe it. It is easy to inspect and if
you see that there is no break in in the stripe, you can have confidence
that it's, OK. I even put stripes on the exhaust pipe nuts so I was happy
that I torqued them at the time. (I check those nuts every time I pull the
cowl, anyway).
Cheers!!!-------Henry
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Natedanna(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Letter from Van's about price increase |
I think Mr Van Grunsven would not treat his customers unfairly as past
history shows.
Perhaps you should contact Van himself.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | LJoh896239(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: -8 Strobe Power Position? |
I have mounted mine inverted under the floor on the left side just aft of the
footwell. I'll drill a hole in the unit's cover as per instructions.
Lance Johnson
RV8A finish
Salt Lake City
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Letter from Van's about price increase |
From: | "Hollis Jr, Thomas S" <thollis(at)reliant.com> |
Seems to me that Vans clearly states that you need to pay in full to lock in a
price. They also give a long notice of any potential price increase.
-----Original Message-----
From: Natedanna(at)aol.com [mailto:Natedanna(at)aol.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: Letter from Van's about price increase
I think Mr Van Grunsven would not treat his customers unfairly as past
history shows.
Perhaps you should contact Van himself.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)comcast.net> |
RV-List Digest List
I saw a post today about UHMW tape and its possible use on brake pedals,
which reminded me that the canopy slider calls for some of that (UHMW
tape). I don't see any on hand. Does it come with the kit or do you
order it separate?
Barry Pote RV9a recovering (slowing) my sanity after 'adjusting' the
canopy frame.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "MARSHALL,STEPHANIE (HP-Corvallis,ex1)" <stephanie.marshall(at)hp.com> |
Hello everyone,
My hubby (AF) is about to start his RV-8 empennage kit (as soon as it
arrives...which I hope is REALLY soon cause I am about to kill him).
ANYhow with his B-day & Christmas coming up what would some of you
experienced (and after the insurance e-mail (really funny BTW) I use that
term lightly :
) ) builders suggest as a present? Or perhaps a few presents.
Thanks in advance
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Stephanie Marshall
In Or'gun
(541) 715-3976
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Looking to purchase a 7/9 emp |
From: | David_Rowbotham(at)dom.com |
11/13/2002 01:51:05 PM
Please let me know if you or anyone you know has a 7/9 emp and preview plan
set for sale.
I'm thinking of becoming a repeat offender.
Thanks,
David Rowbotham
RV-8A - N712CR - 140 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com> |
Hmmm...I remember how I was waiting for my kit...killing him would be
justified, but then you have to dispose of the kit when it finally
arrives. A little patience and both the source of annoyance and the kit
itself tend to disappear. *grin* Anyway, it depends on what he has
already bought for himself. Things he will want to have... builder's
videos, tools, books about building, tools, RV apparel, *power* tools,
Kitlog software, and ...er... did I mention tools? Van's is a great
source, as is Matronics, and they will point you to other vendors and
wishlists. However, if hubby is like me, he will have already started
buying everything for himself, so the best thing you can do is buy him
things he will forget to get for himself (like food, clothes, etc.) and
be supportive of his new habit in other ways - like helping him rivet
and not divorcing him because he spent the house payment on an
instrument.
While the above was somewhat lighthearted, it should get your creative
juices going. Good luck to both of you.
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - almost ready to rivet firewall
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
MARSHALL,STEPHANIE (HP-Corvallis,ex1)
Subject: RV-List: newbie's wife
Hello everyone,
My hubby (AF) is about to start his RV-8 empennage kit (as soon as it
arrives...which I hope is REALLY soon cause I am about to kill him).
ANYhow with his B-day & Christmas coming up what would some of you
experienced (and after the insurance e-mail (really funny BTW) I use
that
term lightly :
) ) builders suggest as a present? Or perhaps a few presents.
Thanks in advance
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Stephanie Marshall
In Or'gun
(541) 715-3976
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ed Perry" <eperry(at)san.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: newbie's wife |
Be careful you guys this looks like a trap.....Let me get this right,
there's a wife out there that wants to help her husband build an airplane,
I'm not falling for it, but I would suggest some of the builders videos that
Van's sells. They are good at showing some of the beginning techniques he
will need to know.
Ed Perry
eperry(at)san.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "MARSHALL,STEPHANIE (HP-Corvallis,ex1)" <stephanie.marshall(at)hp.com>
Subject: RV-List: newbie's wife
>
> Hello everyone,
>
> My hubby (AF) is about to start his RV-8 empennage kit (as soon as it
> arrives...which I hope is REALLY soon cause I am about to kill him).
>
> ANYhow with his B-day & Christmas coming up what would some of you
> experienced (and after the insurance e-mail (really funny BTW) I use that
> term lightly :
> ) ) builders suggest as a present? Or perhaps a few presents.
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> Stephanie Marshall
> In Or'gun
> (541) 715-3976
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Patty Gillies" <d020205(at)vm.sc.edu> |
Stephanie,
Tools, tools and more tools. Go to the Avery website an buy anything in the
catalog. Sharpie and metal rulers are great stocking stuffers. If he has
an air compress a good air drill is a must and also plenty of #30 and # 40
drill bits. I found I could not live without my versipak screwdriver. I
could go on and on, but I hope that helps.
Patty Gillies
RV-6 finally flying, SC
gillies-patty(at)sc.edu
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
MARSHALL,STEPHANIE (HP-Corvallis,ex1)
Subject: RV-List: newbie's wife
Hello everyone,
My hubby (AF) is about to start his RV-8 empennage kit (as soon as it
arrives...which I hope is REALLY soon cause I am about to kill him).
ANYhow with his B-day & Christmas coming up what would some of you
experienced (and after the insurance e-mail (really funny BTW) I use that
term lightly :
) ) builders suggest as a present? Or perhaps a few presents.
Thanks in advance
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Stephanie Marshall
In Or'gun
(541) 715-3976
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)vondane.com> |
"vansairforce"
Subject: | Simpson Harnesses... |
Does anyone know how long the harnesses need to be to fit? I like these and
would get them if I knew which ones would fit...
http://www.simpsonracing.com/Shop/Browse.asp?category=83
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A ~ 75 hours
www.vondane.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: | Re: newbie's wife |
> ANYhow with his B-day & Christmas coming up what would some of you
> experienced (and after the insurance e-mail (really funny BTW) I use that
> term lightly :
> ) ) builders suggest as a present? Or perhaps a few presents.
Perhaps the easy way out:
1. Gift certificate from Avery Tools
2. Gift certificate from Cleveland tools (their new "Main Squeeze" rivet
squeezer is wonderful)
3. Gift certificate from Sears (especially if you have a Sears tool store
near you)
4. Gift certificate from your favorite store, so that he can give it to you
for putting up with his building. ;<)
Tim (also AF)
The number one requirement for a flying RV ... a patient spouse
******
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Scott Brumbelow <csbrumbelow(at)fedex.com> |
Subject: | Re: newbie's wife |
Back before I saw the light (I was building a Glasair rather than the RV-8A)
and we had the Glasair tailkit on order, my wife somehow obtained the
recommended tool list from Stoddard Hamilton (which contained a lot of
oddball/specialty tools required for fiberglass), then spent a lot of time
getting all this stuff. Needless to say, it was a complete surprise and one of
the best gifts I have received.
Avery Tools is another source - your husband may have already discovered that,
however. If not, they have some very good and complete RV builders' "kits".
Does he already have a compressor?
Actually the most important "gift" has been her complete support as the RV has
taken form in my garage. Not a single word or complaint as the dollars rolled
out and the parts flew in - up through and including the engine. Of course, by
the tone and direction of your email, it sounds like you are already well down
that path...
csb
Patrick Kelley wrote:
>
> Hmmm...I remember how I was waiting for my kit...killing him would be
> justified, but then you have to dispose of the kit when it finally
> arrives. A little patience and both the source of annoyance and the kit
> itself tend to disappear. *grin* Anyway, it depends on what he has
> already bought for himself. Things he will want to have... builder's
> videos, tools, books about building, tools, RV apparel, *power* tools,
> Kitlog software, and ...er... did I mention tools? Van's is a great
> source, as is Matronics, and they will point you to other vendors and
> wishlists. However, if hubby is like me, he will have already started
> buying everything for himself, so the best thing you can do is buy him
> things he will forget to get for himself (like food, clothes, etc.) and
> be supportive of his new habit in other ways - like helping him rivet
> and not divorcing him because he spent the house payment on an
> instrument.
>
> While the above was somewhat lighthearted, it should get your creative
> juices going. Good luck to both of you.
>
> Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - almost ready to rivet firewall
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> MARSHALL,STEPHANIE (HP-Corvallis,ex1)
> To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com'
> Subject: RV-List: newbie's wife
>
>
>
> Hello everyone,
>
> My hubby (AF) is about to start his RV-8 empennage kit (as soon as it
> arrives...which I hope is REALLY soon cause I am about to kill him).
>
> ANYhow with his B-day & Christmas coming up what would some of you
> experienced (and after the insurance e-mail (really funny BTW) I use
> that
> term lightly :
> ) ) builders suggest as a present? Or perhaps a few presents.
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> Stephanie Marshall
> In Or'gun
> (541) 715-3976
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "MARSHALL,STEPHANIE (HP-Corvallis,ex1)" <stephanie.marshall(at)hp.com> |
Hello again,
At Avery tools, the have "RV builders kit" what is the consensus on this?
Is there any major difference between the 2X and 3X guns for an RV-8?
I was thinking of the Preview Plans Set and/or RVator Newsletter and/or the
building videos. I don't think I can go wrong with those, it is probably
best to let him buy his own tools. :)
Does anyone have any videos that they might be willing to sell?
Thank you SO much!
Stephanie (RV-8er wife)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
For those who don't know yet, there is an update on the RV-10A on Van's
website. The three fuselage sub-sections are now joined. Lookin' good!
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
three years of RV grins
The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE*
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "MARSHALL,STEPHANIE (HP-Corvallis,ex1)" <stephanie.marshall(at)hp.com> |
"be supportive of his new habit in other ways - like helping him rivet
and not divorcing him because he spent the house payment on an
instrument."
That's why we decided that I was taking care of the bills and such from here
on. :)
He already informed me that I _would_ be helping rivet. We'll see....
Thanks,
Stephanie
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "MARSHALL,STEPHANIE (HP-Corvallis,ex1)" <stephanie.marshall(at)hp.com> |
Subject: | pneumatic rivet squeezers |
Hi all,
What is the general consensus of pneumatic rivet squeezers?
Thanks
Stephanie
in Or'gun
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
>(HP-Corvallis,ex1)"
>
>Hello again,
>
>At Avery tools, the have "RV builders kit" what is the consensus on this?
>Is there any major difference between the 2X and 3X guns for an RV-8?
It seems to be a personal preference sort of thing. Some folks swear
by the 2X, others love the 3X. I think the model of the gun also has
a bearing on whether people prefer 2X or 3X. I've got a no-name 3X
gun I bought from Avery, and I am happy with it. A 2x gun is
advertised as being good for up to a 1/8 inch diameter rivet. The 3X
is good for 3/16 inch, so they say. For the RV-8, you need to drive
up to 1/8 inch rivets. But, if you mess up a 1/8 rivet, and you
enlarge the hole when you drill the rivet out, you might possibly
want to use a 5/32 rivet instead. So, I bought a 3X gun. Mind you
I've never needed to drive a 5/32 rivet, so I could have gotten by
with a 2X.
>I was thinking of the Preview Plans Set and/or RVator Newsletter and/or the
>building videos. I don't think I can go wrong with those, it is probably
>best to let him buy his own tools. :)
Yep, the Preview Plans and the Orndorff videos are must haves.
>
>Does anyone have any videos that they might be willing to sell?
>
>Thank you SO much!
>
>Stephanie (RV-8er wife)
Have fun in your big adventure,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (baffles, induction air, oil cooler)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JDaniel343(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: pneumatic rivet squeezers |
I wouldn't build an RV without one. I bought a ha
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JDaniel343(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: pneumatic rivet squeezers |
I wouldn't build an RV withone. I bought a hand squeezer from Avery when I
started building. After I completed 75% of the empanage I purchased a used
Pnuematic squeezer and have never been disapointed. I have been able to use
the pnuematic squeezer in any situation that the hand squeezer would have
worked.
John Danielson
N106WP 100 Hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: pneumatic rivet squeezers |
>
>
>Didn't buy one and regret it. If I had to do it again, and I probably will someday,
I would get one without a doubt. Get one which works with the different
yolks from Avery.
>
Jeff Point
RV-6 finish kit
Milwaukee WI
>Hi all,
>What is the general consensus of pneumatic rivet squeezers?
>
>Thanks
>Stephanie
>in Or'gun
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | tchoug <tchoug(at)micron.com> |
Subject: | pneumatic rivet squeezers |
That would be the best present any one could ever give to an RV builder! Not
cheap, but a great benefit!
Todd Houg
RV-9A Fuselage
-----Original Message-----
From: MARSHALL,STEPHANIE (HP-Corvallis,ex1)
[mailto:stephanie.marshall(at)hp.com]
Subject: RV-List: pneumatic rivet squeezers
Hi all,
What is the general consensus of pneumatic rivet squeezers?
Thanks
Stephanie
in Or'gun
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)attbi.com> |
Subject: | Re: pneumatic rivet squeezers |
I bought a pneumatic squeezer after a while, and wondered how I had ever lived
without it. It's the
greatest.
Jack Abell
RV-6A N333JA "Lotsa Jack" Flying
"MARSHALL,STEPHANIE (HP-Corvallis,ex1)" wrote:
>
> Hi all,
> What is the general consensus of pneumatic rivet squeezers?
>
> Thanks
> Stephanie
> in Or'gun
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ken - Design Department" <ken(at)soundsuckers.com> |
Subject: | RV-6 Firewall foward for sale |
> Time for X-mas for someone..
I have ordered a new engine and prop for my flying 6-A and have a 0320 h2ad
engine all papers and never had a prop strike, prop, motor mount and all
assoriess to bolt it right up to your new plane.
The engine is high time 2000 hr but it has been in the plane for only 60
hours, still certified also fixed pitch senschech (spelling ? ) metal prop.
Has all goodies including oil cooler light weight starter, 60 amp geo
alternator egt and hend temp sensores from grand rapids engine sensor system
complete exhaust .
I would like 12k for complete set up and will trade front cowl and spinner
with you so you just have to match to your cowl.
Will start dismantling plane after Thanksgiving for retrofit to Subaru
Engine
Call me offline at 541-947-2602 pst.
e-mail www.ken(at)soundsuckers.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Curt Hoffman" <choffman9(at)cinci.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: pneumatic rivet squeezers |
My problem is my wrists tend to hurt; I think from typing, hammering, and
other stuff through my many years. I find when I am using the hand squeezer,
and in particular the clecoe pliers, my wrists bother me more. I am using
the pneumatic more for the less strain on my wrists than anything else. It
is heavy and clumsy, but doesn't really take any force to use. Where I can,
I mount it in a vise and then can just hold the part and dimple / rivet.
This only works for small parts obviously.
Curt Hoffman
RV-9A wings
1968 Mustang 302 convertible
Piper Cherokee N5320W
----- Original Message -----
From: "tchoug" <tchoug(at)micron.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: pneumatic rivet squeezers
>
> That would be the best present any one could ever give to an RV builder!
Not
> cheap, but a great benefit!
>
> Todd Houg
> RV-9A Fuselage
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: MARSHALL,STEPHANIE (HP-Corvallis,ex1)
> [mailto:stephanie.marshall(at)hp.com]
> To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com'
> Subject: RV-List: pneumatic rivet squeezers
>
>
>
>
> Hi all,
> What is the general consensus of pneumatic rivet squeezers?
>
> Thanks
> Stephanie
> in Or'gun
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
Date: | Nov 13, 2002 |
From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
Stephanie,
In my experience, bucking (holding the steel bar behind the rivet) takes more
skill than running the riveting gun. Actually it simply requires a good eye.
You have to hold the bar perpendicular to the rivet. Most builders have noted
that running the riveting gun is done by sound and timing. Often times, women
are better at running the gun than the "alleged" master builder. Remember, we
can't even dance!!!! :-)
Charlie Kuss
>
>
>"be supportive of his new habit in other ways - like helping him rivet
>and not divorcing him because he spent the house payment on an
>instrument."
>
>That's why we decided that I was taking care of the bills and such from here
>on. :)
>He already informed me that I _would_ be helping rivet. We'll see....
>
>Thanks,
>Stephanie
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bartrim, Todd" <sbartrim(at)mail.canfor.ca> |
Subject: | pneumatic rivet squeezers |
Don't waste your money. I'm just finishing and not once have I ever
considered needing one. Building isn't exactly hard physical work and
squeezing them rivets might be the closest thing to exercise he will get
once he becomes fully obsessed with it.
There are many other more important items that you can spend money
on. Like for instance I'm really hoping Santa will leave an Icom A-23
handheld radio in my stocking.
I know that you want to surprise him, but it might be best if you
just ask him what he really needs. Gift certificates may not be as fun to
unwrap, but they are far better in the end.
S. Todd Bartrim
Turbo 13B rotary powered
RX-9endurance (FWF)
C-FSTB (reserved)
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
> "MARSHALL,STEPHANIE (HP-Corvallis,ex1)" wrote:
>
>
> >
> > Hi all,
> > What is the general consensus of pneumatic rivet squeezers?
> >
> > Thanks
> > Stephanie
> > in Or'gun
> >
>
RE: RV-List: pneumatic rivet squeezers
Don't waste your money. I'm just finishing and not once have I ever considered
needing one. Building isn't exactly hard physical work and squeezing them rivets
might be the closest thing to exercise he will get once he becomes fully obsessed
with it.
There are many other more important items that you can spend money on. Like for
instance I'm really hoping Santa will leave an Icom A-23 handheld radio in my
stocking.
I know that you want to surprise him, but it might be best if you just ask him
what he really needs. Gift certificates may not be as fun to unwrap, but they
are far better in the end.
S. Todd Bartrim
Turbo 13B rotary powered
RX-9endurance (FWF)
C-FSTB (reserved)
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
MARSHALL,STEPHANIE (HP-Corvallis,ex1) wrote:
-- RV-List message posted by: MARSHALL,STEPHANIE (HP-Corvallis,ex1) stephanie.marshall(at)hp.com
Hi all,
What is the general consensus of pneumatic rivet squeezers?
Thanks
Stephanie
in Or'gun
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim Streit <wooody98(at)directvinternet.com> |
Subject: | Re: newbie's wife |
What do you mean "WE"....
Charlie Kuss wrote:
>
> Stephanie,
> In my experience, bucking (holding the steel bar behind the rivet) takes more
skill than running the riveting gun. Actually it simply requires a good eye.
You have to hold the bar perpendicular to the rivet. Most builders have noted
that running the riveting gun is done by sound and timing. Often times, women
are better at running the gun than the "alleged" master builder. Remember, we
can't even dance!!!! :-)
> Charlie Kuss
>
> >
> >
> >"be supportive of his new habit in other ways - like helping him rivet
> >and not divorcing him because he spent the house payment on an
> >instrument."
> >
> >That's why we decided that I was taking care of the bills and such from here
> >on. :)
> >He already informed me that I _would_ be helping rivet. We'll see....
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Stephanie
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Subject: | Bob Haan's Wig-Wag Flasher |
Sam -
Why does it click? The Gall's catalog says the FS020 is solid
state........
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Buchanan
> Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2002 10:03 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Bob Haan's Wig-Wag Flasher
>
>
>
>
> Norman wrote:
> >
>
> > The main reason I bought it is because it is quite. The
> police flasher
> > units make a loud click that some listers were claiming
> could be heard
> > in the Com but I'm not flying yet.
>
>
> The only time I hear the Galls flasher relays clicking in my
> RV-6 is when the engine is idling, but never as a noise in
> the com. The first time I taxied in with the Galls unit
> running, I thought I had a valve sticking or
> something......really shook me up until I figured out the
> source of the tapping noise! :-)
>
> Actually, the clicking sound at idle is a good reminder to
> turn the unit off.
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
Subject: | Re: pneumatic rivet squeezers |
Hi Stephanie,
A luxury / pleasure to have but not a vital necessity. Used correctly no
problem, They can cause serious damage to parts if a mistreak is made!
They are pricey but can be sold for a good price used. The difference is
sort of a rental fee.
Rivet squeezing goes faster in some situations
If hubby is strong and healthy the Avery tools squeezer is the best buy.
The Cleaveland tools hand powered pneumatic squeezer is the best
intermediate buy.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "MARSHALL,STEPHANIE (HP-Corvallis,ex1)" <stephanie.marshall(at)hp.com>
Subject: RV-List: pneumatic rivet squeezers
>
> Hi all,
> What is the general consensus of pneumatic rivet squeezers?
>
> Thanks
> Stephanie
> in Or'gun
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: pneumatic rivet squeezers |
A 'must have' that you can get most of your money back on at sale time.
But you probably will be so attached to it, you will keep it. You never
know, you might want to build the RV12.
Barry Pote Rv9a
"MARSHALL,STEPHANIE (HP-Corvallis,ex1)" wrote:
>
>
> Hi all,
> What is the general consensus of pneumatic rivet squeezers?
>
> Thanks
> Stephanie
> in Or'gun
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | WCruiser1(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: pneumatic rivet squeezers |
The best money I ever spent. Great for dimpling and setting rivets
consistently without misforming the aluminum.
Gary Gembala
8A engine hung this evening
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rick Galati" <rick07x(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: pneumatic rivet squeezers |
Highly recommended. Most people have the "C" type yoke pneumatic
squeezer which is great, but if you can find an "alligator" squeezer you'll get
even more utility out of it. In any event, these squeezers easily produce
first rate shop heads on your rivets time after time and as a bonus will
make short work out of dimpling for a surprising number of holes. In many
situations, you can simply clamp your squeezer in a vise to free up a hand and
allow you to work a part more efficiently. For setting flush (AD426)
or round head (AD470) rivets, a pneumatic squeezer is the way to do. When your
project is done, you can resell your pneumatic squeezer in a New York
minute.
--- Rick Galati
--- rick07x(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | WPAerial(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: where to put passenger warning&strob power pack |
can you put the passenger warning anywhere like the tip up canopy, arm rest,
or side ways on the panel? strob power pack, is it ok to put right on the
floor skin? doubler only on inside or what?
jerry wilken
rv6a oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | Re: Bob Haan's Wig-Wag Flasher |
Larry Bowen wrote:
>
>
> Sam -
>
> Why does it click? The Gall's catalog says the FS020 is solid
> state........
>
I dunno, but something in the thing clicks with every cycle.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Karie Daniel" <karied4(at)attbi.com> |
Subject: | Re: newbie's wife |
Patty,
It would have been really nice have a spare empennage while building mine.
That way I wouldn't have had to stop work ever three days to re-order and
wait for a new piece that I messed up to arrive.
Just kidding (sort of)!
Buy him tools, does he have a compressor? I would go to Sears and check them
out, totally depends on your budget though.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Patty Gillies" <>
Subject: RE: RV-List: newbie's wife
>
> Stephanie,
>
> Tools, tools and more tools. Go to the Avery website an buy anything in
the
> catalog. Sharpie and metal rulers are great stocking stuffers. If he has
> an air compress a good air drill is a must and also plenty of #30 and # 40
> drill bits. I found I could not live without my versipak screwdriver. I
> could go on and on, but I hope that helps.
>
> Patty Gillies
> RV-6 finally flying, SC
> gillies-patty(at)sc.edu
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> MARSHALL,STEPHANIE (HP-Corvallis,ex1)
> To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com'
> Subject: RV-List: newbie's wife
>
>
>
>
> Hello everyone,
>
> My hubby (AF) is about to start his RV-8 empennage kit (as soon as it
> arrives...which I hope is REALLY soon cause I am about to kill him).
>
> ANYhow with his B-day & Christmas coming up what would some of you
> experienced (and after the insurance e-mail (really funny BTW) I use that
> term lightly :
> ) ) builders suggest as a present? Or perhaps a few presents.
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> Stephanie Marshall
> In Or'gun
> (541) 715-3976
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gary Liming <gary(at)liming.org> |
In the March 2001 issue of Sport Aviation, there is a good article on fuel
systems. In that article its shows some of the hose fittings, and shows
one of the "Earl's" blue and read type fittings that are sold in speed
shops that appear to be fine, and which are used by a lot of homebuilders
as shown on their websites.
Why aren't the racing hoses fitting ok to use?
Thanks,
Gary Liming
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
Subject: | Wanted: Baffle for an O-235 |
I am looking to purchase an engine baffle for an O-235. It does not have to
be new. Ideally, a baffle off a Cessna 150, or one from an engine upgrade
would be perfect.
I am installing an O-235 N2C on a RV-9A. Vans does not sell the engine
baffle, nor a kit, nor the plans - for this combination.
I would install it (modify the top to cowling interface) - or use it as a
template for making my own. I believe that the engine to baffle dimensions
are critical, but the baffle to cowling is pretty easy.
Does anyone know where I buy one, perhaps someone on the list??
Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop
Finish Kit 85% Complete
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
Subject: | Re: Hose fittings? |
They are ok to use. They are the same thing, just cheaper. They even are
the same "AN" sizes. I used Earl's hoses and fittings throughout the plane
(fuel, brakes, etco)with no problems after 125 hours. Just inspect them
like anything else, and you'll be fine.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Liming" <gary(at)liming.org>
Subject: RV-List: Hose fittings?
>
> In the March 2001 issue of Sport Aviation, there is a good article on fuel
> systems. In that article its shows some of the hose fittings, and shows
> one of the "Earl's" blue and read type fittings that are sold in speed
> shops that appear to be fine, and which are used by a lot of homebuilders
> as shown on their websites.
> Why aren't the racing hoses fitting ok to use?
> Thanks,
> Gary Liming
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
Subject: | Re: newbie's wife |
Patty:
One of the best gifts for any builder is the complete set of Tony Bingelis
books. Tony penned a bunch of articles for the EAA - which was eventually
published as a set of four books (about $25 each or about $79 for the
complete set). Call Vans. They strongly recommend them. All builders
quote him and defer to his wisdom. I am installing my engine now. I read,
and I reread his fourth book "Firewall Forward". at every step. He will end
up buying these books - if you don't. Put a little note in each one - so he
will know who to praise for his successful project. P.S. Make certain he
doesn't already have them. Now all you have to do is learn to buck 15,000
rivets ~:)
Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop
Finish Kit 85% Complete
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Pete <pete(at)guranda.com> |
Subject: | Shipping & Customs costs in Australia |
Do any Aussie builders have recent costs for an Empennage kit into
Sydney?
Shipping, Customs, handling, hidden etc.
Pete Madden
Mortdale
-9 preview plans
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
Subject: | Oil/Air Separator Connection |
I have a question for the list not documented in the archives.
I have installed an oil/air separator. I have selected the oil collection
option (the archives), instead of routing oil back into the crankcase
(Firewall Forward). I am using the Matco Fluid reservoir and the CAV-110H4
Drain Valve.
The two products are very good, for capturing and draining the oil.
However, It's difficult to connect an aluminum tube to the reservoir. I
would like to use a hose and SS clamp. However, the nut on top would have
to have a hole be drilled, and the nut only sticks up about 1/4".
Perhaps I just need to replace the nut with some other connector. Any
suggestions? ? ?
Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop
Finish Kit 85% Complete
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Chris Fordham" <consult(at)island.net> |
Subject: | mag installation |
Hi
Just finished installing lightspeed ignition on an 0320 and waiting for the
monsoons here to let up to test fly and happened to read an article on slick
mag installation , the author said to watch out for two rubber inserts inside
the case that may fall out into the base. When I did the lightspeed I never noticed
any rubber inserts and am now wondering if I should take the plates off
the mag holes and recheck things. The mags I took off where Bendix and not Slicks.
Any of you engine types know if there is a difference or what these rubber
inserts are?
Thanks Chris
RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Doug Gray <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au> |
Subject: | Re: Shipping & Customs costs in Australia |
>
> Do any Aussie builders have recent costs for an Empennage kit into
> Sydney?
>
> Shipping, Customs, handling, hidden etc.
>
> Pete Madden
> Mortdale
> -9 preview plans
Pete,
Unless you are importing an engine or other large crates the easiest is to
simply ring Vans and ask for it to be shipped by the cheapest method
possible. Do not have it shipped UPS, that will cost big bucks. Go for a
surface sea freight or parcel post, the US terminology is different but Vans
will organise the cheapest.
You will pay Vans for the shipping along with the empennage.
When it hits Australia you should not be charged any more than GST on the
'purchase' price declared on the 'commercial invoice' attached to the
parcel. If it arrives through Australia Post then you will not pay a
brokerage fee.
If you are unlucky and it is intercepted by a shipping firm you will probably
attract a brokerage fee. This can be expensiveunless you negotiate a price
and are able to have an appointed broker intercept the shipment.
I have never seen any customs fees although arrangements change from time to
time. Customs are much more active these days but I would not expect any
delays or costs provided you do not let a broker get involved or you do not
expect them to store the package.
Expect it to arrive within 1 or 2 weeks, just because you don't pay
airfreight does not mean it will not be shipped by air. Very little freight
of this size goes by sea.
So just order the empennage by phone/fax, and wait. Pay what you have to pay
in Australia & don't sweat it, it only hurts once. (yeh right...) Most time
it has worked surprisingly well.
BTW.. UPS urgent/express/overnight delivery **never** arrives any sooner than
the cheapest shipping method yet costs up to 10 times more.
Doug Gray
RV-6 fuse in Heathcote (just down the road!!)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)attbi.com> |
Subject: | Re: Letter from Van's about price increase |
Gary Coonan wrote:
>I understand plenty. Of course that is what a deposit is for. I can
>not think of any business transaction where the deposit does not secure the details
of the transaction, especially the price. Give me an example of a reputable
company that does this (except Van's). My
>customers would kick my butt if I operated this way and yours would too.
>
>
>$2,500 to save me a place in line; don't do me any favors. It will take months
to deliver, and if Van's raises the price in the mean time too bad . . . and
if you do not like that then you must pay Van's all now. I think your love for
Van's has gone beyond your objectivity.
>
>
>What's the deal here, you guys are defending a company that demands full payment
(thousands of &)of months before delivery. If Van's did not have a 6-9 month
lead-time this would not be an issue. It is
>inappropriate for Van's to ask for the money when they can not deliver.
>
>
>I does not matter what the website says, asking money when you can not delivery
is not right. The ability to deliver in a timely manner is the sole responsibility
of the company.
>
>
>If you are demanding the money, deliver the product; if you can not
>delivery product do not demand the money. I realize you guys like Van's but come
on, it is not good business to demand payment for something Van's will not
deliver for months.
>
>
>I have not had any issues with Van's, in fact they have done a great job with
all my transactions. I did object to that policy when placing my initial order
and I was assured by Van's that it would actually happen and it didn't.
>
>
>Van's is not beyond improving the way it treats it customers.
>
>
>Gary Coonan
>Rockvale, TN
>RV-7 N696TT (Avionics)
>
>
Gary,
I couldn't agree with you more. It seems that, in our shared
appreciation for Van's product, and our relief at being treated much,
much better by Van's than most other kit companies treat their
customers, we've collectively lowered the standards to which we hold the
other business/customer relationships in our lives. Why? I haven't
figured it out yet, after almost five years...
In the fall of 2000, I ordered my new Hartzell prop from Van's at their
listed price of $4650. I was a bit flush at the time and paid in FULL,
so as not to have to deal with making a rush payment of the balance when
delivery time came around. I was told to expect delivery by the end of
the year. New Year's came and went and, when I called to check in
mid-January, was told that it should be another few weeks. OK, no
problemo... About a week later I received a bill from Van's for an
additional $200, due before they would schedule my prop delivery. I
initially thought it was just an accounting/paperwork mistake. Wrong.
They seriously expected me to pay the difference between my initial
payment and the new, 2001, price of $4850. Remember: I had paid in FULL
with my order. My perspective was and is that when a company accepts
FULL payment with an order, they are accepting responsibility for any
price increases before delivery. After all, they'd been holding my
money for months and we had executed a purchase contract for the prop.
Which contract, incidentally, did not, at the time, include the
provision on the kit purchase contract which allows them to charge the
price in effect at shipping, not at contract execution. Van's was
initially intractable in their position, daring even to point out how
'lucky' I was to be getting such a discount on the prop, in any case.
However true that may be, it is entirely not the point and deliberately
obtuse of them to mention in this context. It took over a week of
talking to various people in the company before this was settled. They
eventually agreed to ship the prop for the price we'd initially agreed
upon, and which I had paid in FULL months before.
It definitely left a bad taste in my mouth. Love the airplanes, love
some of their people, definitely not thrilled with some company
policies. Just because they don't screw us left and right like other
kit companies, doesn't mean they're entitled to a complete pass on
whatever less egregious behavior they feel like exhibiting.
My two cents...
Regards,
Ken Balch
RV-8 N118KB
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
Subject: | Re: 8 Strobe Power Position and ELT? |
>
> I mounted my strobe power supply on the back of the baggage wall and it
> worked great.
> Easy access and completely out of the way.
>
> What about the ELT on RV7A/RV6A?
>
Mine went on the elevator bellcrank rib.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
Subject: | Firewall Forward: was newbie's wife |
Actually, the 4th book is "On Engines" and is very worthwhile for RVs. The
book was written as Bingelis was installing a Lycoming in his -6 and manu of
the pictures are of it.
The earlier Firewall Forward book is not as appropriate for us. If you're
designing your own airplane, and need to build your own custom firewall,
engine mount, exhaust system, etc..., its very good. But these are things
that Van already does for us. On Engines is about installing systems
relevant to a Lycoming. Its much better.
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
http://buildersbooks.com
I am installing my engine now. I read,
> and I reread his fourth book "Firewall Forward". at every step. He will
end
> up buying these books - if you don't. Put a little note in each one - so
he
> will know who to praise for his successful project.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Don Mack" <don(at)dmack.net> |
Subject: | pneumatic rivet squeezers |
With all the work done for you these days, do you still need one....
Don
1992 RV-6A kit - hoping to register with the classic aircraft on my
first flight to OSH.
Hi all,
What is the general consensus of pneumatic rivet squeezers?
Thanks
Stephanie
in Or'gun
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re:Mag installation |
Not to worry ;
The rubber inserts are used on Continental mag drives - none on the O-320
Lycoming.
Bob Olds A&R RV-4 , N1191X
Charleston,Arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re:Hose Fittings |
If you use racing fittings for your aircraft - be sure the flare angles are
the same ! AN fittings are 37 degree and normally automotive fittings are 45
degree flare angle . If they are different - don't mix the two.
Bob Olds A&P RV-4 , N1191X
Charleston,Arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | sjhdcl(at)kingston.net |
Subject: | Re: 8 Strobe Power Position and ELT? |
I'm debating between this choice (elevator bellcrank rib) and under the seat
floor. I haven't checked the fit on the floor yet but hoping that will work.
Obviously with the elevator bell crank another rib will need to be installed.
Any photos of the installation?
Steve
RV7A
Quoting Larry Pardue :
>
>
> >
> > I mounted my strobe power supply on the back of the baggage wall and it
> > worked great.
> > Easy access and completely out of the way.
> >
> > What about the ELT on RV7A/RV6A?
> >
>
> Mine went on the elevator bellcrank rib.
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
>
> RV-6 N441LP Flying
> http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: where to put passenger warning&strob power pack |
Hi Jerry,
The passenger warning placard can go anywhere where it can be seen by all
passengers during the operation of the aircraft.
As for the power source for the strobe, I would suggest that if you attach
it to the outside side then the doubler would be on the inside of the
fuselage next to the power source.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A, -6A, and 9A
>From: WPAerial(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: where to put passenger warning&strob power pack
>Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 21:51:33 EST
>
>
>can you put the passenger warning anywhere like the tip up canopy, arm
>rest,
>or side ways on the panel? strob power pack, is it ok to put right on the
>floor skin? doubler only on inside or what?
>
>jerry wilken
>rv6a oregon
>
>
STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE*
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: 8 Strobe Power Position and ELT? |
From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>Subject: Re: RV-List: 8 Strobe Power Position and ELT?
>Sent: 11/10/20 1:53 AM
>Received: 11/14/02 9:40 AM
>From: sjhdcl(at)kingston.net
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
>I'm debating between this choice (elevator bellcrank rib) and under the seat
>floor. I haven't checked the fit on the floor yet but hoping that will work.
>Obviously with the elevator bell crank another rib will need to be
>installed.
>Any photos of the installation?
>
>Steve
>RV7A
>
>
I don't have photos, but another rib was not needed. I just bolted the
mount to the side of the bell crank rib behind the bell crank. The ELT I
used can be rotated in the mount so that it has the proper orientation.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Chris Woodhouse <chrisw3(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: newbie's wife |
Where do you find these books. I looked on Vans site and at amazon.com and
can't find a set and I can only find one of the books. Of course there is
always the possibility I am going blind ;)
Ernest Kells wrote:
> --? RV-List message posted by: "Ernest Kells" ?ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca?
>
> Patty:
> One of the best gifts for any builder is the complete set of Tony Bingelis
> books. Tony penned a bunch of articles for the EAA - which was eventually
> published as a set of four books (about $25 each or about $79 for the
> complete set). Call Vans. They strongly recommend them. All builders
> quote him and defer to his wisdom. I am installing my engine now. I read,
> and I reread his fourth book "Firewall Forward". at every step. He will end
> up buying these books - if you don't. Put a little note in each one - so he
> will know who to praise for his successful project. P.S. Make certain he
> doesn't already have them. Now all you have to do is learn to buck 15,000
> rivets ~:)
> Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop
> Finish Kit 85% Complete
--
Chris Woodhouse
3147 SW 127th St.
Oklahoma City, OK 73170
405-691-5206 (home)
chrisw(at)programmer.net
N35? 20.492'
W97? 34.342'
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Letter from Van's about price increase |
From: | "Sam Ray" <str(at)us.ibm.com> |
11/14/2002 10:21:25 AM
The history on the "price in effect at the time of shipment" policy:
Van's used to announce new prices in the RVATOR- an increase was announced
on the RV6 wing kit that was more than usual because vendor's had increased
their prices more than usual, so a whole bunch of guys ordered their wing
kits to save about $200. I remember Ken saying they had to eat $10,000.
They came up with the policy as a way to create a more orderly way of
dealing with the normal increase in prices that happen over time. Seems
fair because we do want them to stay in business and be successful and
continue to give us outstanding quality and support.
Sam Ray
80262
fuselage kit- bolting on the gear
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
Subject: | Re: newbie's wife |
http://www.buildersbooks.com
Specifically, the link to the Bingelis books is:
http://www.buildersbooks.com/bingelis_set_of_4.htm
In my opinion BB is the best source for homebuilt-related (and RV-related)
learning material. I'm not affiliated, just a happy customer.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (fuselage)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Woodhouse" <chrisw3(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: newbie's wife
>
> Where do you find these books. I looked on Vans site and at amazon.com
and
> can't find a set and I can only find one of the books. Of course there is
> always the possibility I am going blind ;)
>
> Ernest Kells wrote:
>
> > --? RV-List message posted by: "Ernest Kells"
?ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca?
> >
> > Patty:
> > One of the best gifts for any builder is the complete set of Tony
Bingelis
> > books. Tony penned a bunch of articles for the EAA - which was
eventually
> > published as a set of four books (about $25 each or about $79 for the
> > complete set). Call Vans. They strongly recommend them. All builders
> > quote him and defer to his wisdom. I am installing my engine now. I
read,
> > and I reread his fourth book "Firewall Forward". at every step. He will
end
> > up buying these books - if you don't. Put a little note in each one -
so he
> > will know who to praise for his successful project. P.S. Make certain
he
> > doesn't already have them. Now all you have to do is learn to buck
15,000
> > rivets ~:)
> > Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop
> > Finish Kit 85% Complete
>
> --
> Chris Woodhouse
> 3147 SW 127th St.
> Oklahoma City, OK 73170
> 405-691-5206 (home)
> chrisw(at)programmer.net
> N35? 20.492'
> W97? 34.342'
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Don Mack" <don(at)dmack.net> |
EAA - shop.eaa.org or you can call them - number is on the website.
Don Mack
Where do you find these books. I looked on Vans site and at amazon.com
and
can't find a set and I can only find one of the books. Of course there
is
always the possibility I am going blind ;)
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi y'all! Further to my posting 11/13, I thought I would add some further notes
for those of you who have dug up the RVator article. Ken Scott did a bit of editing
(rightly so) of my verbose letter I sent to him that led to my technique
being published. He stated that I did the work on my epoxy cowl. They didn't
have epoxy cowls when I ordered my kit 11/94. It was my polyester cowl. The West
Systems epoxy I used adheres just as well to polyester! Also, the hinge treatment
was done on all hinge segments around the cowl, not just the ones at the
firewall interface. Those 1/8'' hinges are a violation of all that's sacred
in sheet metal practice!---NO SHARP CORNERS! especially NO INSIDE SHARP CORNERS!!!
That's why, having seen quite a few RV's with broken hinge-eyes along the
firewall, I thought it prudent to relieve those corners, so I did that on all
the 3/32 MS hinges as well. Can't hurt!
I have 40 hours on my 6A now, no problems, but still too young to say that
my treatment works, but boy, do those hinge pins slide out/in easily!
BTW, inserting the top cowl f/w interface hinge pins through the oil-door is
a real crock.(I would not have been able to do it anyway as I have my oil cooler
mounted on the starboard side of the f/w and access is blocked by its 3" scat
tube to the stbd baffle). So I made a little trap-door right in the center
of the cowl and made the hinge pins the same length. Very easy to insert them
from there. The cover for the door was made from cowl material salvaged from
the bottom cowl induction scoop cut-out. A slotted cam-lock fastener holds it
in place.
Cheers!! -----Henry
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Karpinski" <karpinski(at)baldcom.net> |
Subject: | Letter from Van's .. Let him pay his taxes !! |
My guess is.. Like all men with a successful businesses...
Van's just need the extra cash at the end of the year to pay his TAXES !!
LOL.. :>!!
No Archive
Al Karpinski
RV-8- 50%
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
Subject: | Letter from Van's about price increase |
Gary, others
For what it's worth, here's my take on Van's pricing policy. I have been
surprised and annoyed by it, but I think I understand what drives it, and I
think it is actually done to keep our prices down.
The story about the prop paid in full at the time it was ordered I think
best illustrates both sides of the situation. We order something for a
given price and we don't expect it to change. But Van's doesn't control
their cost of that item. They are charging a price based on their cost.
Their cost goes up. They pass that increase on. The alternative would be
to price based on what the market would bear. With these things (props)
backordered, I would expect some would be willing to pay a higher price to
get it sooner. Or Van's could give us a fixed price and assume the risk of
increases in their cost over the time it takes, for whatever reason, to
receive or manufacture the component. If they assume that risk, believe me,
the price increase would be more than 3% a year.
Other companies do it differently. I ordered a Bluemountain EFIS-1 before
the end of October to lock in the price. I paid 25% down with the explicit
understanding that it would be about six months before I could expect
delivery. The agreement with them locked in the price. I think Bluemountain
will turn out to be a good company to deal with, but I do consider my $2,400
deposit to be at risk. I'm betting they are going to deliver me something
worth what I am paying them for it, around May of next year.
After dealing with Van's for about five years, I am convinced that they are
an honorable company that looks out for the interests of their customers,
and that they take the long-term view of doing business. That doesn't mean
that I don't sometime disagree with them, or that I don't think they make
mistakes. But it does mean I don't think they are out to screw anyone for a
short-term benefit.
I don't especially like their policy, but I think it is the policy that
serves our (customer's) interests best.
Terry
RV-8A #80729
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: 8 Strobe Power Position and ELT? |
I installed the ACK elt (on my 6-A) on top of the starboard rear baggage
side panel with a couple of .025" angles below to brace it The antenna is
mounted to a bracket on the top stbd longeron just in front so that it is
inside the rear window. I have a block of UHMW mounted on the canopy frame
(tip-up canopy) to secure its tip and thus keep it away from the plexi. The
little control panel is also on a bracket on the top longeron by the antenna
bracket. Everything is easily reachable by the pilot.
I Installed the strobe power supply (Whelen) under the passenger seat
(hanging from the seat skin). If I had spaced the seat ribs according to
plans, it wouldn't have fit there. This is what I did: When I was laying out
the location of the seat ribs to the main bulkhead (F604) I noticed that the
two central ribs, F-619R & L, if located per plans would require drastic
cut-outs to allow installation of the 3/8" bolts and nuts that hold the main
spar. Also there wouldn't be enough room between the ribs to install the
strobe PS. The distance between the webs of these two ribs, per plans, is
4", more than enough to allow installation of the elevator control tube that
goes between them. I figured that if I interchanged the position of these
two ribs, (left-to-right and right -to left) their flanges instead of facing
inboard ,would be facing outboard and can be positioned to clear obstruction
of the bolts.
But the flanges must remain in the same position because the belly skins
join there and the seat skins and cover join there also. So by moving both
ribs closer to eachother, to 2 3/4" between their webs (instead of 4"),
their flanges will remain in the proper position per plans and the web of
each rib moves closer to the center-line by 5/8". This is the result: The
webs and flanges clear all 3/8" bolt obstruction and the spacing between the
webs of the F619s and their neighboring F618s has increased by 5/8" The
strobe power supply now fits fine. No cut-outs required on the ribs!
When I trial- fitted my wings, I inserted the 3/8" bolts from the
rear,easier to torque the nuts! With the strobe PS under the seat, all
noisy wiring from the wing tips and tail is there also. I have no noise
interference on audio or radio whatsoever!
I don't know what changes were made on the -7 and if any of the above
applies, but any builders with -6 (6-A) fuselage kits still to build, should
take note!
Cheers!!------Henry
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: newbie's wife |
Re Tony Bingelis' books, try EAA's hq at OSH------Henry
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
,
Subject: | rudder pedal bushing location |
I've read in the archives about suggested places where the rudder pedal
bushing blocks should be drilled. It seems like the best solution is to
drill a forward-most location just aft of the recess (about 3" aft of the
firewall), then drill two more locations 1" & 2" back from there. Is that
how most people have done it?
But I guess my real question is this...how many degrees of travel do the
rudder pedals swing with full actuation? Is 3 or 4" enough room for full
swing?
I'm sure we all deliberate about drilling these suckers...I appreciate any
input you can provide and I apologize for beating the horse if it's already
dead.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (fuselage)
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ernie billing <ebilling(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | pneumatic rivet squeezers |
I love mine, hand squeezing 1/8" rivets is hard on the
wrists and I can't use the gun when the kids are
sleeping (my only quality shop time.)
Got mine on EBay - quite the deal at $150.
Have a look - there are a few available at really good
prices right now:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1786625578
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1872342248
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1872342701
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1872342823
Ernie Billing
RV7 - finishing emp, starting wings
C177RG - N55HS
San Luis Obispo, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: rudder pedal bushing location |
Dan,
No apologizes needed. A lot of us have been there. For me, it was not
too long ago.
As I remember, I wanted 3 positions for adjustment. I had hoped to have
as few holes as possible, and share some of them for front of one
position and the back of another. It was hard to do for several reasons.
The spacing of the bolt holes on the center block is different than the
outside blocks. And the outside blocks get closer to each other as you
slide them forward, because the forward fuselage tapers.
Also keep in mind that the pre drilled large holes for the weldment are
done at an angle, I believe. So there is a left and right.
Barry Pote RV9a
________________________________________________________________________________
Hey guys: If you are going to request a copy of my hinge article that appeared
in the RVator by direct e-mail to me, please, PLEASE, include your e-mail address!!!!
I have requests from Scott (who?) and Vincent Welch without the addresses
and my ancient PC (or myself ) is/are not smart enough to extract your address
from your messages. Jim, you didn't include you address either but I browsed
the authors List and found an address as follows: woody98(at)directvinternet.com
so I used it to send the article, but my ISP said they couldn't deliver
it-address unknown! Is that right? or haven't you paid your server bill?? So
guys, repeat your messages with your e-mail address!-------Thanx---Henry
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com> |
Henry,
I'd like a copy of your article.
send to:
edwardmcole(at)attbi.com
Ed Cole
RV6A
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Elsa & Henry [SMTP:elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com]
> Sent: Thursday, November 14, 2002 2:37 PM
> To: Matronics RV List
> Subject: RV-List: Re cowl hinges
>
> <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
>
> Hey guys: If you are going to request a copy of my hinge article that
> appeared in the RVator by direct e-mail to me, please, PLEASE, include
> your e-mail address!!!! I have requests from Scott (who?) and Vincent
> Welch without the addresses and my ancient PC (or myself ) is/are not
> smart enough to extract your address from your messages. Jim, you didn't
> include you address either but I browsed the authors List and found an
> address as follows: woody98(at)directvinternet.com so I used it to send the
> article, but my ISP said they couldn't deliver it-address unknown! Is that
> right? or haven't you paid your server bill?? So guys, repeat your
> messages with your e-mail address!-------Thanx---Henry
>
>
>
>
>
Maxim Home Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com
Products Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com/MaximProducts/products.htm
New Products:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/new_products.cfm
Datasheets:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/l_datasheet3.cfm
The information contained in this message is confidential
and may be legally privileged. The message is intended
solely for the addressee(s). If you are not the intended
recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, dissemination,
or reproduction is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful.
If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender
by return e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Chris Woodhouse <chrisw3(at)cox.net> |
RV-list
Subject: | Building with a handicap |
I plan to start building an RV-7 in 18 months or so from now but I have
a mild form of muscular dystrophy. I am going to get started getting
together some tools for my shop around the middle of next year and was
wondering if anyone had suggestions on ways to make the building process
physically easier. First I plan on going with the quick build. Things
I think are going to give me problems are, hand rivet squeezes, hand pop
rivet gun, cleco pliers tin snips/hand nibblers, holding the rivet gun
up for more than about 30 or 45 min at a time, and maybe fluting
pliers. And here are some of the things I am thinking of to make things
easier. Pneumatic rivet squeezer but I don't know if the weight is
going to be a problem but even if it is I will get a lot more done with
that than a hand squeezer, but will the A or the C frame squeezer be
easier to use. Pneumatic cleco thingamabob from Avery. Pneumatic pop
rivet gun. Instead of tin snips I was hoping that my delta 9" wood band
saw would help out there. To keep all the air tools as easy to maneuver
around as possible I was going to replace the heavy shop hose most
people use with the light weight 1/4 OD plastic hose for the last 6 to
10 feet or so. For the fluting pliers I will use the standard type not
the vise grip mod one and if it proves to be too difficult I will weld
some 3/4" dia steel tubing on to lengthen the handles some. I don't
think I will have much problem dimpling with the C-frame and hammer, I
just won't be able to do it for as long as most. So that is what I have
thought of so far, I was wondering if anyone else had some ideas of
other ways to make the job physically easier.
--
Chris Woodhouse
3147 SW 127th St.
Oklahoma City, OK 73170
405-691-5206 (home)
chrisw(at)programmer.net
N35 20.492'
W97 34.342'
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
Subject: | Re: Building with a handicap |
>
>I plan to start building an RV-7 in 18 months or so from now but I have
>a mild form of muscular dystrophy. I am going to get started getting
>together some tools for my shop around the middle of next year and was
>wondering if anyone had suggestions on ways to make the building process
>physically easier. First I plan on going with the quick build. Things
>I think are going to give me problems are, hand rivet squeezes, hand pop
>rivet gun, cleco pliers tin snips/hand nibblers, holding the rivet gun
>up for more than about 30 or 45 min at a time, and maybe fluting
>pliers. And here are some of the things I am thinking of to make things
>easier. Pneumatic rivet squeezer but I don't know if the weight is
>going to be a problem but even if it is I will get a lot more done with
>that than a hand squeezer, but will the A or the C frame squeezer be
>easier to use. Pneumatic cleco thingamabob from Avery. Pneumatic pop
>rivet gun. Instead of tin snips I was hoping that my delta 9" wood band
>saw would help out there. To keep all the air tools as easy to maneuver
>around as possible I was going to replace the heavy shop hose most
>people use with the light weight 1/4 OD plastic hose for the last 6 to
>10 feet or so. For the fluting pliers I will use the standard type not
>the vise grip mod one and if it proves to be too difficult I will weld
>some 3/4" dia steel tubing on to lengthen the handles some. I don't
>think I will have much problem dimpling with the C-frame and hammer, I
>just won't be able to do it for as long as most. So that is what I have
>thought of so far, I was wondering if anyone else had some ideas of
>other ways to make the job physically easier.
>
>--
>Chris Woodhouse
Chris,
The pneumatic squeezer is fairly heavy - you might want to find a
local builder and heft one to be sure it will be OK. Cleaveland
sells a new hand squeezer model that is reputed to have much lower
force requirements due to better geometry.
It doesn't take too much force to squeeze 3/32 rivets with a hand
squeezer - a local builder should be able to let you squeeze a few
rivets into some scrap so you can assess the task. 1/8 in rivets are
a whole nother story though. But, many of the 1/8 rivets that folks
want to do with a squeezer can be done using a rivet gun and the
Avery C-Frame tool. Avery sells a accessory with the C-Frame that
allows you to put a rivet gun on it, instead of using a hammer. I
wouldn't use it for dimpling, but it is great for keeping the rivet
gun perfectly aligned with a rivet set for riveting things such as HS
rear spar, seat ribs, fuselage bulkheads, etc. And you can always
just use a rivet gun and bucking bar to get the remaining 1/8 rivets.
Prospective builders always worry about the riveting, but in fact it
only represents a tiny percentage of the total amount of time the
project will take. You'll spend hundreds of hours building wings for
example, but probably much less than 10 hours doing all the wing
riveting.
I don't recall the flutting pliers as needed too much force.
For dimpling skins, almost everyone uses a C-frame. But, maybe a
local machine shop could make you something like the wonderful huge
pneumatic squeezer yoke I borrowed a from a local builder. I mounted
it in a ShopMate, and it did a perfect job dimpling skins. Pictures
at:
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/article.php?story 021026181650253
You can likely hook up with some other local builders or wanna-be
builders who would love to come by and lend a hand when you get to
something that you just can't handle alone.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (baffles, induction air, oil cooler)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Marcel Bourgon" <mbourgon(at)elp.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: Building with a handicap |
Good luck with your project. Make sure you have some good helpers. Trust
me this is a true adventure. What I have found is that we have been able to
get help from other builders and friends. This is a real project just don't
kid yourself with the amount you can and cannot do.. This is in no way
trying to discourage you but you really need to be honest with yourself
about the physical effort required. If you are not in wheel chair and get
around should be no problem. Just set a realistic schedule. We have been
building for the last two years, but we are not in a hurry and enjoy the
fellowship of the building process.
All the vendors we have worked with have been very helpfull and I am sure as
a fellow Canadian you will do fine.
Marcel in El Paso RV-9A and RV-7A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Horton" <khorto1537(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Building with a handicap
>
> >
> >I plan to start building an RV-7 in 18 months or so from now but I have
> >a mild form of muscular dystrophy. I am going to get started getting
> >together some tools for my shop around the middle of next year and was
> >wondering if anyone had suggestions on ways to make the building process
> >physically easier. First I plan on going with the quick build. Things
> >I think are going to give me problems are, hand rivet squeezes, hand pop
> >rivet gun, cleco pliers tin snips/hand nibblers, holding the rivet gun
> >up for more than about 30 or 45 min at a time, and maybe fluting
> >pliers. And here are some of the things I am thinking of to make things
> >easier. Pneumatic rivet squeezer but I don't know if the weight is
> >going to be a problem but even if it is I will get a lot more done with
> >that than a hand squeezer, but will the A or the C frame squeezer be
> >easier to use. Pneumatic cleco thingamabob from Avery. Pneumatic pop
> >rivet gun. Instead of tin snips I was hoping that my delta 9" wood band
> >saw would help out there. To keep all the air tools as easy to maneuver
> >around as possible I was going to replace the heavy shop hose most
> >people use with the light weight 1/4 OD plastic hose for the last 6 to
> >10 feet or so. For the fluting pliers I will use the standard type not
> >the vise grip mod one and if it proves to be too difficult I will weld
> >some 3/4" dia steel tubing on to lengthen the handles some. I don't
> >think I will have much problem dimpling with the C-frame and hammer, I
> >just won't be able to do it for as long as most. So that is what I have
> >thought of so far, I was wondering if anyone else had some ideas of
> >other ways to make the job physically easier.
> >
> >--
> >Chris Woodhouse
>
>
> Chris,
>
> The pneumatic squeezer is fairly heavy - you might want to find a
> local builder and heft one to be sure it will be OK. Cleaveland
> sells a new hand squeezer model that is reputed to have much lower
> force requirements due to better geometry.
>
> It doesn't take too much force to squeeze 3/32 rivets with a hand
> squeezer - a local builder should be able to let you squeeze a few
> rivets into some scrap so you can assess the task. 1/8 in rivets are
> a whole nother story though. But, many of the 1/8 rivets that folks
> want to do with a squeezer can be done using a rivet gun and the
> Avery C-Frame tool. Avery sells a accessory with the C-Frame that
> allows you to put a rivet gun on it, instead of using a hammer. I
> wouldn't use it for dimpling, but it is great for keeping the rivet
> gun perfectly aligned with a rivet set for riveting things such as HS
> rear spar, seat ribs, fuselage bulkheads, etc. And you can always
> just use a rivet gun and bucking bar to get the remaining 1/8 rivets.
>
> Prospective builders always worry about the riveting, but in fact it
> only represents a tiny percentage of the total amount of time the
> project will take. You'll spend hundreds of hours building wings for
> example, but probably much less than 10 hours doing all the wing
> riveting.
>
> I don't recall the flutting pliers as needed too much force.
>
> For dimpling skins, almost everyone uses a C-frame. But, maybe a
> local machine shop could make you something like the wonderful huge
> pneumatic squeezer yoke I borrowed a from a local builder. I mounted
> it in a ShopMate, and it did a perfect job dimpling skins. Pictures
> at:
>
>
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/article.php?story 021026181650253
>
> You can likely hook up with some other local builders or wanna-be
> builders who would love to come by and lend a hand when you get to
> something that you just can't handle alone.
> --
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (baffles, induction air, oil cooler)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
Subject: | on the edge of being on-topic (hangar door info in Kitplanes) |
Does anyone remember seeing an article in Kitplanes about a hangar door
constructed of aluminum tubing? I can't seem to find it & I haven't had any luck
with their search engine.
Thanks,
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "3 rotor" <rv8r300(at)attbi.com> |
Subject: | Re: Building with a handicap |
I was amazed to see in the Grainger catalog a device that I had sort of
designed in my head. It is a counterweight system for holding heavy hand
tools, like the pneumatic squeezer, that allows the tool to be moved around
without the weight factor. Bob Neuner has a counterweight back riveting
bucking bar system that allows you to heft around a 5 lb chunk of steel
without getting tired.
I hope you look at all of this as a challenge. The plane alone will
present many as you make a mistake a day(on good days!) like the rest of us.
kevin -6A & -8
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Duane Bentley" <dbentley(at)fuse.net> |
Henry,
In the "21 Years of RV-ator", page 121, there is an article from 1999 - 3rd
edition, entitled "Improving Cowl Attach Hinge Alignment. In that article,
it outlines the process of laying out wetted strips of very thin cloth
between the hinges and cowl, along with 3/16" holes used to "weep" the resin
through the hinge and cowl.
Is this the process you were referring to in previous e-mail?
Duane Bentley
RV6 Finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Building with a handicap |
From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
As far as building with some of the heavier tools.
You could try to rig up a counter balance type of thing.
If you have a rather high ceiling it shouldn't be to much of a problem.
Think in terms of having several hanging around.
I really believe that where theirs a will, theres a way.
Good luck
writes:
>
> >
> >I plan to start building an RV-7 in 18 months or so from now but I
> have
> >a mild form of muscular dystrophy. I am going to get started
> getting
> >together some tools for my shop around the middle of next year and
> was
> >wondering if anyone had suggestions on ways to make the building
> process
> >physically easier. First I plan on going with the quick build.
> Things
> >I think are going to give me problems are, hand rivet squeezes,
> hand pop
> >rivet gun, cleco pliers tin snips/hand nibblers, holding the rivet
> gun
> >up for more than about 30 or 45 min at a time, and maybe fluting
> >pliers. And here are some of the things I am thinking of to make
> things
> >easier. Pneumatic rivet squeezer but I don't know if the weight is
> >going to be a problem but even if it is I will get a lot more done
> with
> >that than a hand squeezer, but will the A or the C frame squeezer
> be
> >easier to use. Pneumatic cleco thingamabob from Avery. Pneumatic
> pop
> >rivet gun. Instead of tin snips I was hoping that my delta 9" wood
> band
> >saw would help out there. To keep all the air tools as easy to
> maneuver
> >around as possible I was going to replace the heavy shop hose most
> >people use with the light weight 1/4 OD plastic hose for the last 6
> to
> >10 feet or so. For the fluting pliers I will use the standard type
> not
> >the vise grip mod one and if it proves to be too difficult I will
> weld
> >some 3/4" dia steel tubing on to lengthen the handles some. I
> don't
> >think I will have much problem dimpling with the C-frame and
> hammer, I
> >just won't be able to do it for as long as most. So that is what I
> have
> >thought of so far, I was wondering if anyone else had some ideas of
> >other ways to make the job physically easier.
> >
> >--
> >Chris Woodhouse
>
>
> Chris,
>
> The pneumatic squeezer is fairly heavy - you might want to find a
> local builder and heft one to be sure it will be OK. Cleaveland
> sells a new hand squeezer model that is reputed to have much lower
> force requirements due to better geometry.
>
> It doesn't take too much force to squeeze 3/32 rivets with a hand
> squeezer - a local builder should be able to let you squeeze a few
> rivets into some scrap so you can assess the task. 1/8 in rivets
> are
> a whole nother story though. But, many of the 1/8 rivets that folks
>
> want to do with a squeezer can be done using a rivet gun and the
> Avery C-Frame tool. Avery sells a accessory with the C-Frame that
> allows you to put a rivet gun on it, instead of using a hammer. I
> wouldn't use it for dimpling, but it is great for keeping the rivet
> gun perfectly aligned with a rivet set for riveting things such as
> HS
> rear spar, seat ribs, fuselage bulkheads, etc. And you can always
> just use a rivet gun and bucking bar to get the remaining 1/8
> rivets.
>
> Prospective builders always worry about the riveting, but in fact it
>
> only represents a tiny percentage of the total amount of time the
> project will take. You'll spend hundreds of hours building wings
> for
> example, but probably much less than 10 hours doing all the wing
> riveting.
>
> I don't recall the flutting pliers as needed too much force.
>
> For dimpling skins, almost everyone uses a C-frame. But, maybe a
> local machine shop could make you something like the wonderful huge
> pneumatic squeezer yoke I borrowed a from a local builder. I
> mounted
> it in a ShopMate, and it did a perfect job dimpling skins. Pictures
>
> at:
>
>
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/article.php?story 021026181650
253
>
> You can likely hook up with some other local builders or wanna-be
> builders who would love to come by and lend a hand when you get to
> something that you just can't handle alone.
> --
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (baffles, induction air, oil cooler)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
>
>
>
> Contribution
> Gifts!
> Admin.
> _->
>
> messages.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
Subject: | Building with a handicap |
Welcome Chris, you are among hundreds of friends here. There is a
fellow, last name Hays I believe, who built an RV some years ago. This
man is paralyzed from the waist down. I seldom spent a night in the
shop when I was building my plane that I didn't contemplate the
magnitude of his accomplishment. There was an article about him in
Sport Aviation or perhaps Kitplanes 5 or 6 years ago. You should try to
track him down, he may have good tool handling/shop organizing ideas. I
suspect someone on the list knows him or of him. Regarding hand rivet
squeezing, an entire airplane could be built with only a handful of hand
squeezed rivets. The clecoe wrench and dimple squeezer could be
problems, but others have given good advice already about those.
Good luck with your planning..
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 225 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Chris Woodhouse
> Sent: Thursday, November 14, 2002 5:35 PM
> To: vansairforce; RV-list
> Subject: RV-List: Building with a handicap
>
>
>
> I plan to start building an RV-7 in 18 months or so from now
> but I have a mild form of muscular dystrophy. I am going to
> get started getting together some tools for my shop around
> the middle of next year and was wondering if anyone had
> suggestions on ways to make the building process physically
> easier. First I plan on going with the quick build. Things
> I think are going to give me problems are, hand rivet
> squeezes, hand pop rivet gun, cleco pliers tin snips/hand
> nibblers, holding the rivet gun up for more than about 30 or
> 45 min at a time, and maybe fluting pliers. And here are
> some of the things I am thinking of to make things easier.
> Pneumatic rivet squeezer but I don't know if the weight is
> going to be a problem but even if it is I will get a lot more
> done with that than a hand squeezer, but will the A or the C
> frame squeezer be easier to use. Pneumatic cleco thingamabob
> from Avery. Pneumatic pop rivet gun. Instead of tin snips I
> was hoping that my delta 9" wood band saw would help out
> there. To keep all the air tools as easy to maneuver around
> as possible I was going to replace the heavy shop hose most
> people use with the light weight 1/4 OD plastic hose for the
> last 6 to 10 feet or so. For the fluting pliers I will use
> the standard type not the vise grip mod one and if it proves
> to be too difficult I will weld some 3/4" dia steel tubing on
> to lengthen the handles some. I don't think I will have much
> problem dimpling with the C-frame and hammer, I just won't be
> able to do it for as long as most. So that is what I have
> thought of so far, I was wondering if anyone else had some
> ideas of other ways to make the job physically easier.
>
> --
> Chris Woodhouse
> 3147 SW 127th St.
> Oklahoma City, OK 73170
> 405-691-5206 (home)
> chrisw(at)programmer.net
> N35 20.492'
> W97 34.342'
>
>
> ===========
> Contribution
> Free Gifts!
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
Subject: | panel mount vertical card compass |
Can anybody recommend a panel mount vertical card compass?
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (fuselage)
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
Subject: | Re: panel mount vertical card compass |
Get the U.S. made Precision vertical card compass. It works great. Panel
mount or glaresheild mount. It's a little more expensive than the import
one, but works much, much better. I had two of the import ones before I
sent them back and spent the money on the Precision.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: RV-List: panel mount vertical card compass
>
> Can anybody recommend a panel mount vertical card compass?
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D (fuselage)
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Subject: | panel mount vertical card compass |
Perhaps http://www.nisongermarine.com/3-gcid2.html
Don't have one, but looks interesting.
-
Larry Bowen, RV-8 wires
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
> Sent: Thursday, November 14, 2002 11:18 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: panel mount vertical card compass
>
>
>
> Can anybody recommend a panel mount vertical card compass?
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D (fuselage)
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rob W M Shipley" <Rob(at)RobsGlass.com> |
I've been reading this dialogue with some interest since I own a service company
and Gary Coonan's position deserves some consideration. He wrote:-
I cannot think of any business transaction where the deposit does not secure the
details of the transaction, especially the price. Give me an example of a reputable
company that does this (except Van's). My customers would kick my butt
if I operated this way and yours would too.
In general I agree with this given the understanding that if the buyer fails to
take delivery within a reasonable period after the item is available then the
price may change. This protects against buyers who misjudge how soon they need
something and leave the factory holding the inventory.
Van's should address this concern and I hope they will respond to the lists and
to Gary as to why they should be privileged to apply a policy that simply doesn't
exist for the rest of the business world.
Please take this in the spirit in which it is meant I think Van's is a terrific
organisation with great products and really nice staff but Gary is right this
practice sucks.
Rob
Rob W M Shipley.
RV9A fuselage. N919RV resvd.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
Subject: | Re: Van's deposits. |
>
>I've been reading this dialogue with some interest since I own a
>service company and Gary Coonan's position deserves some
>consideration. He wrote:-
>I cannot think of any business transaction where the deposit does
>not secure the details of the transaction, especially the price.
>Give me an example of a reputable company that does this (except
>Van's). My customers would kick my butt if I operated this way and
>yours would too.
>In general I agree with this given the understanding that if the
>buyer fails to take delivery within a reasonable period after the
>item is available then the price may change. This protects against
>buyers who misjudge how soon they need something and leave the
>factory holding the inventory.
>Van's should address this concern and I hope they will respond to
>the lists and to Gary as to why they should be privileged to apply a
>policy that simply doesn't exist for the rest of the business world.
>Please take this in the spirit in which it is meant I think Van's is
>a terrific organisation with great products and really nice staff
>but Gary is right this practice sucks.
>Rob
>Rob W M Shipley.
>RV9A fuselage. N919RV resvd.
>
I certainly agree that Van uses an unusual business practice, and I
would be very frustrated if I were caught in this situation myself.
But, he is up front about the policy. We know he operates on very
thin margins - a comparison of his prices to other companies will
tell you that. Many companies that charged a lot more for kits have
gone broke.
If Van changed his policy to accept more of the risk due to vendor
price increases, he would have to raise his prices a bit, or risk the
company. Do we really want either of those options? We seem to want
him to accept more financial risk, at the current prices, and we want
the company to be around for a long time - doesn't compute.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (baffles, induction air, oil cooler)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steve J Hurlbut" <sjhdcl(at)kingston.net> |
Subject: | Position Light Amp Value |
Anybody know the amp draw of the single position lights Van's sells?
Part #W1285PG-14 Position Light (no strobe).
Tying to determine wire gauge.
Steve
RV7A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Miller Robert <rmiller3(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Van's deposits. |
Having followed this thread, I'd ask you to look at one point only.
Van's increases have been about 3 percent a year. That is rather moderate.
It appears that in the case that started this thread, a supplier is increasing
Van's price...and Van's is offering to have the bill paid in full by the customer
now... OR pay the increased cost later.
Van's alternatives are limited to two choices:
1. Increase prices across the board to insure itself against any unexpected increased
costs from its vendors.
2. Keep prices to its customers as low as it can, and then pass along increased
costs from vendors, should these occur.
I think some would complain in either case.
But, obviously, choice 2, as is presently the policy, results in generally lower
costs for all of us over the course of building the airplane than would choice
1.
So, I do not wish Van's to change this policy... which, again, would seem to benefit
its customers, AND protect them so that they can remain in business.
Just my thoughts.
Robert
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rick Galati" <rick07x(at)earthlink.net> |
As a retired worker from "McBoeing", I can assure you that shimming
aircraft parts was an everyday fact of life. One of the most difficult and time
consuming shimming situations is a tapering gap. Even with ample supplies of
tapered shim stock of varying dimensions on hand, to get a fit that was
just right could be a time consuming affair. To greatly reduce the time and
also to enhance the quality of a given fix, we used (in some situations) a
space-age material informally known in the shop as "liquid shim". While this
exotic material is probably not available to the average home builder, I have
used with great success a material that is available to all of us. I
mix up my own batch of "liquid shim" which is simply a small cup of the West
System of epoxy resin with lots of cotton flox added to make it structural and
stuff this paste into a gap making sure some of it seeps out of the rivet
holes. Let it set up overnight, redrill the rivet holes, clean up
the countersinks and set the rivets. This fix is quick, easy, and
eliminates any suggestion of pucker on those highly visible skins.
--- Rick Galati
--- rick07x(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Van's deposits. |
Van operates on a low profit system. We all know that and we can take it
or leave it. But I will offer another system for us to think about. In
1970 I bought a TI-50 calculator from H.P. thru my school. I had to pay
the full price..$150.00.. up front and waite six weeks if I wanted it. I
had been waiting three weeks when I received a letter from H.P. informing
me that there was no change
>
> >I've been reading this dialogue with some interest since I own a
My customers would kick my butt if I operated this way and
yours would too.
>a terrific organisation with great products and really nice staff
> >but Gary is right this practice sucks.
> >Rob
> >Rob W M Shipley.
> >RV9A fuselage. N919RV resvd.
> >
> I certainly agree that Van uses an unusual business practice, and I
> would be very frustrated if I were caught in this situation myself.
> If Van changed his policy to accept more of the risk due to vendor
> price increases, he would have to raise his prices a bit, or risk
> the
> company. Do we really want either of those options? We seem to
> want
> him to accept more financial risk, at the current prices, and we
> want
> the company to be around for a long time - doesn't compute.
> --
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (baffles, induction air, oil cooler)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Al Hosein <alhosein(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | What if Van's has a price decrease (2) |
(Goffed on that first send; here's what it should
read)
With the number of orders Van's has been shipping
lately, there could be a possibility that they can
negotiate better prices for materials etc. with their
greater quantities needed... and better supplier
terms.
Now, if this calculates to cost savings to Van's, and
we have fixed price commitments with deposits, then it
means that we pay a higher price when it could be
lower. Would you folks who fuss about the
deposit/price-fixed idea feel good about this???
Maybe you can tell that I'am in the Computer Retail
Business...
9A emp
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Humor, RV style.... |
I was told this and thought it applied pretty well...
------
A Piper pilot, a Cessna pilot, and an RV builder were sitting around the airport
one day discussing the relative merits of having a mistress vs. having a wife.
The Piper pilot says that for sure a mistress is better, because then you don't
have to worry about divorce, alimony, and a whole host of other perils.
The Cessna pilot says that for sure a wife is better, because the security she
provides will lower your stress and keep you happy.
The RV builder says that it is surely better to have both, because when your wife
thinks you are with your mistress and and your mistress thinks you are with
your wife --- you can work on your airplane.
:-).
Cheers,
Brad "Sharpie" Benson
RV6AQB...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: panel mount vertical card compass |
Dan,
We looked at the vertical card compasses and decided to go with the SIRS
compass in the panel - works grest.
But we hardly ever refer to it - Since we mounted our Garmin 295 in the
middle of the glareshield. The 295 has the HSI screens it's like having a
HUD. Take a look at the RV-list picture DB - We have a picture of the
panel.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: panel mount vertical card compass
>Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 20:17:31 -0800
>
>
>Can anybody recommend a panel mount vertical card compass?
>
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D (fuselage)
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE*
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Natedanna(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Van's deposits. |
I think we've beat this one to death.
Let's go on.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "James J. Varney" <jvarney(at)vfpi.com> |
Subject: | Re: Pacific Aero Harnesses contact info? |
Hi Mark. I got a response from Rob the other day. The msg follows:
James,
Thank you for your inquiry.
I am sorry to say, but I will be closing the business by year end. I am
currently not able to take any new orders. I have had a very bad time
getting MS hardware from my main supplier. U.S. Forge Craft of Fort
Smith AK. They just went out of business.
Good Luck with your RV.
Rob Huntsinger
Pacific Aero Harness
>Subject: RV-List: Pacific Aero Harnesses contact info??
>From: czechsix(at)juno.com
>Does anyone have current contact info for Rob Huntsinger at Pacific >Aero Harnesses?
>--Mark Navratil
(dammit)
do no archive
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
Subject: | Re: Van's deposits. |
HERE! HERE!!
and just in case the spelling is wrong;
HEAR! HEAR!!
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: <Natedanna(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Van's deposits.
>
> I think we've beat this one to death.
> Let's go on.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "R. Craig Chipley" <mechtech81(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Building with a handicap |
Yes, That was Carl Hay, I believe he is in Oregon.
--- Alex Peterson wrote:
>
>
> Welcome Chris, you are among hundreds of friends
> here. There is a
> fellow, last name Hays I believe, who built an RV
> some years ago. This
> man is paralyzed from the waist down. I seldom
> spent a night in the
> shop when I was building my plane that I didn't
> contemplate the
> magnitude of his accomplishment. There was an
> article about him in
> Sport Aviation or perhaps Kitplanes 5 or 6 years
> ago. You should try to
> track him down, he may have good tool handling/shop
> organizing ideas. I
> suspect someone on the list knows him or of him.
> Regarding hand rivet
> squeezing, an entire airplane could be built with
> only a handful of hand
> squeezed rivets. The clecoe wrench and dimple
> squeezer could be
> problems, but others have given good advice already
> about those.
>
> Good luck with your planning..
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> RV6-A N66AP 225 hours
> www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of
> > Chris Woodhouse
> > Sent: Thursday, November 14, 2002 5:35 PM
> > To: vansairforce; RV-list
> > Subject: RV-List: Building with a handicap
> >
> >
>
> >
> > I plan to start building an RV-7 in 18 months or
> so from now
> > but I have a mild form of muscular dystrophy. I
> am going to
> > get started getting together some tools for my
> shop around
> > the middle of next year and was wondering if
> anyone had
> > suggestions on ways to make the building process
> physically
> > easier. First I plan on going with the quick
> build. Things
> > I think are going to give me problems are, hand
> rivet
> > squeezes, hand pop rivet gun, cleco pliers tin
> snips/hand
> > nibblers, holding the rivet gun up for more than
> about 30 or
> > 45 min at a time, and maybe fluting pliers. And
> here are
> > some of the things I am thinking of to make things
> easier.
> > Pneumatic rivet squeezer but I don't know if the
> weight is
> > going to be a problem but even if it is I will get
> a lot more
> > done with that than a hand squeezer, but will the
> A or the C
> > frame squeezer be easier to use. Pneumatic cleco
> thingamabob
> > from Avery. Pneumatic pop rivet gun. Instead of
> tin snips I
> > was hoping that my delta 9" wood band saw would
> help out
> > there. To keep all the air tools as easy to
> maneuver around
> > as possible I was going to replace the heavy shop
> hose most
> > people use with the light weight 1/4 OD plastic
> hose for the
> > last 6 to 10 feet or so. For the fluting pliers I
> will use
> > the standard type not the vise grip mod one and if
> it proves
> > to be too difficult I will weld some 3/4" dia
> steel tubing on
> > to lengthen the handles some. I don't think I
> will have much
> > problem dimpling with the C-frame and hammer, I
> just won't be
> > able to do it for as long as most. So that is
> what I have
> > thought of so far, I was wondering if anyone else
> had some
> > ideas of other ways to make the job physically
> easier.
> >
> > --
> > Chris Woodhouse
> > 3147 SW 127th St.
> > Oklahoma City, OK 73170
> > 405-691-5206 (home)
> > chrisw(at)programmer.net
> > N35 20.492'
> > W97 34.342'
> >
> >
> > ===========
> > Contribution
> > Free Gifts!
> > ==========
> > ==========
> > ==========
> > ==========
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Month --
> Gifts!)
> Click on the Contribution
> Terrific Free Gifts!
> Dralle, List Admin.
> _->
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "MARSHALL,STEPHANIE (HP-Corvallis,ex1)" <stephanie.marshall(at)hp.com> |
Subject: | Building with a handicap |
Hi all,
I know there is a guy named Wayne here at KCVO (Corvallis Oregon) who has
built a glasair with a turban (the info is from hubby).
I don't have any more details then that. He rents a hanger from the airport
and I see him around all the time. Corvallis Aero can probably give you his
contact information. Talk to Rick at Corvallis Aero (service guy).
Stephanie in Or'gun
Newbie
-----Original Message-----
From: R. Craig Chipley [mailto:mechtech81(at)yahoo.com]
Subject: RE: RV-List: Building with a handicap
Yes, That was Carl Hay, I believe he is in Oregon.
--- Alex Peterson wrote:
>
>
> Welcome Chris, you are among hundreds of friends
> here. There is a
> fellow, last name Hays I believe, who built an RV
> some years ago. This
> man is paralyzed from the waist down. I seldom
> spent a night in the
> shop when I was building my plane that I didn't
> contemplate the
> magnitude of his accomplishment. There was an
> article about him in
> Sport Aviation or perhaps Kitplanes 5 or 6 years
> ago. You should try to
> track him down, he may have good tool handling/shop
> organizing ideas. I
> suspect someone on the list knows him or of him.
> Regarding hand rivet
> squeezing, an entire airplane could be built with
> only a handful of hand
> squeezed rivets. The clecoe wrench and dimple
> squeezer could be
> problems, but others have given good advice already
> about those.
>
> Good luck with your planning..
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> RV6-A N66AP 225 hours
> www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of
> > Chris Woodhouse
> > Sent: Thursday, November 14, 2002 5:35 PM
> > To: vansairforce; RV-list
> > Subject: RV-List: Building with a handicap
> >
> >
>
> >
> > I plan to start building an RV-7 in 18 months or
> so from now
> > but I have a mild form of muscular dystrophy. I
> am going to
> > get started getting together some tools for my
> shop around
> > the middle of next year and was wondering if
> anyone had
> > suggestions on ways to make the building process
> physically
> > easier. First I plan on going with the quick
> build. Things
> > I think are going to give me problems are, hand
> rivet
> > squeezes, hand pop rivet gun, cleco pliers tin
> snips/hand
> > nibblers, holding the rivet gun up for more than
> about 30 or
> > 45 min at a time, and maybe fluting pliers. And
> here are
> > some of the things I am thinking of to make things
> easier.
> > Pneumatic rivet squeezer but I don't know if the
> weight is
> > going to be a problem but even if it is I will get
> a lot more
> > done with that than a hand squeezer, but will the
> A or the C
> > frame squeezer be easier to use. Pneumatic cleco
> thingamabob
> > from Avery. Pneumatic pop rivet gun. Instead of
> tin snips I
> > was hoping that my delta 9" wood band saw would
> help out
> > there. To keep all the air tools as easy to
> maneuver around
> > as possible I was going to replace the heavy shop
> hose most
> > people use with the light weight 1/4 OD plastic
> hose for the
> > last 6 to 10 feet or so. For the fluting pliers I
> will use
> > the standard type not the vise grip mod one and if
> it proves
> > to be too difficult I will weld some 3/4" dia
> steel tubing on
> > to lengthen the handles some. I don't think I
> will have much
> > problem dimpling with the C-frame and hammer, I
> just won't be
> > able to do it for as long as most. So that is
> what I have
> > thought of so far, I was wondering if anyone else
> had some
> > ideas of other ways to make the job physically
> easier.
> >
> > --
> > Chris Woodhouse
> > 3147 SW 127th St.
> > Oklahoma City, OK 73170
> > 405-691-5206 (home)
> > chrisw(at)programmer.net
> > N35 20.492'
> > W97 34.342'
> >
> >
> > ===========
> > Contribution
> > Free Gifts!
> > ==========
> > ==========
> > ==========
> > ==========
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Month --
> Gifts!)
> Click on the Contribution
> Terrific Free Gifts!
> Dralle, List Admin.
> _->
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | 12 Ah battery anyone? |
From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Guys, I'm doing the "All electric on a budget" setup for my -8A, and with dual alternators I don't expect to ever find myself flying on battery power only. So the biggest demand and need for a battery will be in starting. I'm wondering if I can downsize from the 16Ah Odyssey that a lot of folks are using now to something even smaller like the 12-13 Ah batteries sold by Odyssey, B&C, and others. They still have the same attachment hardware so they should be just as robust but they weigh several pounds less. The cranking amps are a bit less too depending on temperature (you can see a comparison chart on Odyssey's website at: http://www.odysseyfactory.com/specs.htm). Looks like the CCA in a worst case scenario is about 75% of the larger 16Ah battery.
Anyone out there tried a battery like this and have good luck with it for starting?
BTW I'm using Lightspeeds and a Sky-Tec starter (but no primer system) so
my starts should be pretty snappy...)
Thanks and have a good, safe weekend everybody.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D finishing...fiberglass...
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: 12 Ah battery anyone? |
Mark,
I have had a lot of luck with concord RG-12. It weighs 13 pounds. And they
just went back into production.
Regards,
Tom
Whelan Farms Airport / CT01
249 Hard Hill Road North
PO Box 426
Bethlehem, CT 06751
e-mail: wfact01(at)aol.com
Telephone: 203-266-5300
Fax: 203-266-5140
President, EAA Chapter 1097
EAA Technical Counselor
RV-8 Lycoming IO540 (Getting Close)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
Subject: | 12 Ah battery anyone? |
Just curious Mark,
If I read it right, you're using dual lightspeeds. Do you feel OK about
having only one battery? I've been wondering if it's safe to run dual
elec ignitions from one power source for my airplane too. If an
alternator gives out you've got another, but what if a battery cable
loosens up? I've been thinking about a couple of small batteries
crossfed for starting. Any opinions out there?
Ed Holyoke
6 QB (slow)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of czechsix(at)juno.com
> Sent: Friday, November 15, 2002 3:48 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: 12 Ah battery anyone?
>
>
> Guys, I'm doing the "All electric on a budget" setup for my -8A, and
with
> dual alternators I don't expect to ever find myself flying on battery
> power only. So the biggest demand and need for a battery will be in
> starting. I'm wondering if I can downsize from the 16Ah Odyssey that
a
> lot of folks are using now to something even smaller like the 12-13 Ah
> batteries sold by Odyssey, B&C, and others. They still have the same
> attachment hardware so they should be just as robust but they weigh
> several pounds less. The cranking amps are a bit less too depending
on
> temperature (you can see a comparison chart on Odyssey's website at:
> http://www.odysseyfactory.com/specs.htm). Looks like the CCA in a
worst
> case scenario is about 75% of the larger 16Ah battery.
>
> Anyone out there tried a battery like this and have good luck with it
for
> starting? BTW I'm using Lightspeeds and a Sky-Tec starter (but no
primer
> system) so my starts should be pretty snappy...)
>
> Thanks and have a good, safe weekend everybody.
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A N2D finishing...fiberglass...
>
>
>
=
Contribution
Gifts!
> _->
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | emrath <emrath(at)comcast.net> |
And beside that, Andy is a great guy. I was out skiing last winter at
Winter Park and he graciously gave me a ride in his -6. What a blast! I
hope to return the favor some day soon.
Marty in Brentwood TN. RV-6A canopy
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: newbie's wife
http://www.buildersbooks.com
Specifically, the link to the Bingelis books is:
http://www.buildersbooks.com/bingelis_set_of_4.htm
In my opinion BB is the best source for homebuilt-related (and
RV-related) learning material. I'm not affiliated, just a happy
customer.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (fuselage)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Woodhouse" <chrisw3(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: newbie's wife
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca> |
Subject: | Position Light Amp Value |
Anybody know the amp draw of the single position lights Van's sells?
Part #W1285PG-14 Position Light (no strobe).
Tying to determine wire gauge.
Steve
RV7A
----------------------------------------------------
Hi Steve
Check the Whelen web site www.whelen.com that info is probably there.
I cannot find my catalog to check data but I have my Nav Lights listed as
7.4 amps on my electrical load analsys. That's the wingtip type LN
A600-PR-14 (tail lights total 4 bulbs).
George McNutt
Langley B.C.
6A - down for annual inspection.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: 12 Ah battery anyone? |
Ed,
My opinion is that with dual electronic ignitions you should have two
independent batteries that can each be isolated from the electrical system.
Why? Say you have a massive ground fault that takes out the entire
electrical system--2 alternators are not going to help this situation. The
procedure here would be to turn off both batteries (and alternators) thus
leaving one or both batteries dedicated to the ignition systems. One
battery could be taken out by the ground fault momentarily if it is
connected to the essential bus per Bob Nuckoll's design, but would soon blow
the fuselink. If the fault were not on the essential bus, one battery could
be dedicated to the essential bus and the other to the ignition systems.
And you could continue your flight to a safe landing.
You could also have a seperate dedicated battery for the ignition systems
but you would have to have a way to monitor its voltage.
Pat Hatch
RV-4, N17PH, 700 hrs
O-320, Hartzell C/S
RV-6, N44PH, 35 hrs
O-360, Hartzell C/S
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: 12 Ah battery anyone?
>
> Just curious Mark,
>
> If I read it right, you're using dual lightspeeds. Do you feel OK about
> having only one battery? I've been wondering if it's safe to run dual
> elec ignitions from one power source for my airplane too. If an
> alternator gives out you've got another, but what if a battery cable
> loosens up? I've been thinking about a couple of small batteries
> crossfed for starting. Any opinions out there?
>
> Ed Holyoke
> 6 QB (slow)
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> > server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of czechsix(at)juno.com
> > Sent: Friday, November 15, 2002 3:48 PM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV-List: 12 Ah battery anyone?
> >
> >
> > Guys, I'm doing the "All electric on a budget" setup for my -8A, and
> with
> > dual alternators I don't expect to ever find myself flying on battery
> > power only. So the biggest demand and need for a battery will be in
> > starting. I'm wondering if I can downsize from the 16Ah Odyssey that
> a
> > lot of folks are using now to something even smaller like the 12-13 Ah
> > batteries sold by Odyssey, B&C, and others. They still have the same
> > attachment hardware so they should be just as robust but they weigh
> > several pounds less. The cranking amps are a bit less too depending
> on
> > temperature (you can see a comparison chart on Odyssey's website at:
> > http://www.odysseyfactory.com/specs.htm). Looks like the CCA in a
> worst
> > case scenario is about 75% of the larger 16Ah battery.
> >
> > Anyone out there tried a battery like this and have good luck with it
> for
> > starting? BTW I'm using Lightspeeds and a Sky-Tec starter (but no
> primer
> > system) so my starts should be pretty snappy...)
> >
> > Thanks and have a good, safe weekend everybody.
> >
> > --Mark Navratil
> > Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> > RV-8A N2D finishing...fiberglass...
> >
> >
> >
> =
> Contribution
> Gifts!
> > _->
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com> |
Subject: | F611E elevator stop |
Listers:
I may be suffering from major brain-drain here, but I have not found my answer
in the archives.
Does the F611E spacer/down elevator stop get riveted on at the same time as the
F614 rear fuselage deck?? From what I can see on plans #34, it looks like the
F611E is beneath the F614, acting as a spacer, and the Up elevator control stop/angle
is on top of the F614. I find no mention of it in the factory plans
and the Justice instructions mention it (very briefly) much later in the fuselage
construction.
Either I rivet the F611E on at the same time as I rivet the F614, or I suppose
I could sneak it between F614 and the 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/8 angle at the top of F611
when I am ready to set the elevator control throws.
What is a rivet-smasher to do here folks??!
Thanks in advance
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
fuselage outta the jig ( which is on its way to Iowa )
Peshtigo, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: F611E elevator stop |
Jeff,
I must have brain fade too, because I had to go out to the garage (where
I just left for the night) to remember what I did. I left the stop out
when I riveted the rear deck on. It is easy enough to slide into place
and rivet when the elevators are installed, and having it out makes it
easier to trim to the final size for elevator travel. In theory,
anyway. We will know soon enough, as I hope to have the tail mounted
before too long.
Jeff Point
RV-6 canopy almost done!
Milwaukee WI
>Does the F611E spacer/down elevator stop get riveted on at the same time as the
F614 rear fuselage deck?? From what I can see on plans #34, it looks like the
F611E is beneath the F614, acting as a spacer, and the Up elevator control
stop/angle is on top of the F614. I find no mention of it in the factory plans
and the Justice instructions mention it (very briefly) much later in the fuselage
construction.
>
>Either I rivet the F611E on at the same time as I rivet the F614, or I suppose
I could sneak it between F614 and the 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/8 angle at the top of F611
when I am ready to set the elevator control throws.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
Subject: | Re: Position Light Amp Value |
>
>Anybody know the amp draw of the single position lights Van's sells?
>Part #W1285PG-14 Position Light (no strobe).
>
>
>Tying to determine wire gauge.
>
>Steve
>RV7A
>
The Whelan installation manual says the wingtip position lights draw
1.9 amp each. The tail position light draws 1.8 amp. These numbers
are for a 14v system.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (baffles, induction air, oil cooler)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | 12 Ah battery anyone? |
From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Hi Ed,
Believe me I've given a lot of thought to the "All Electric on a Budget" architecture
that 'Lectric Bob has published using one battery and two alternators...I
consider myself a pretty risk-averse person so I don't take this stuff lightly.
Without elaborating too much here I'll just say that you're right, the battery
connection becomes a single-point failure in the system (both power and
ground terminals) plus the engine ground. If any of these connections come off
the fan quits turning. It's a risk but you have to quantify that risk realistically....when
was the last time you were driving down the road in your car
and suddenly it quit, and you opened the hood to find the battery lead had come
off (and if so, how old was the battery and when was the last time you looked
at it)? Or how many people out there have found the battery lead in an aircraft
come loose such that all electrical power was lost? I don't doubt that
it has happened but for a *well-maintained* and inspected system, it's got to
be exceptionally rare. Remember you've only got one crank-shaft, one prop, one
wing spar, etc...so the question becomes whether you feel comfortable with the
single battery considering that the odds are very much in your favor that you'll
never have a total electrical system failure, or whether the extra expense,
weight and complexity of full dual redundant electrical systems is worth it
to you for the statistically insignificant gain in safety that you get from
it. In fact, the extra complexity can even work against you in an emergency....
I actually considered going with only a single alternator and single larger battery
(just like millions of cars out there) because I figured if the alternator
failed, the battery would have plenty of juice left to get me safely on the
ground at the nearest airport. But I didn't want to limit my options and chance
getting stuck in the middle of nowhere when it happened or break a sweat wondering
if my battery would get me where I was going, so the second alternator
is great insurance as I can fly on it indefinitely when using the ESS bus only.
Think about it carefully, make a balanced decision and go for it...
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D fiberglass...
________________________________ Message 33 ____________________________________
From: Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: 12 Ah battery anyone?
Just curious Mark,
If I read it right, you're using dual lightspeeds. Do you feel OK about
having only one battery? I've been wondering if it's safe to run dual
elec ignitions from one power source for my airplane too. If an
alternator gives out you've got another, but what if a battery cable
loosens up? I've been thinking about a couple of small batteries
crossfed for starting. Any opinions out there?
Ed Holyoke
6 QB (slow)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of czechsix(at)juno.com
> Sent: Friday, November 15, 2002 3:48 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: 12 Ah battery anyone?
>
>
> Guys, I'm doing the "All electric on a budget" setup for my -8A, and
with
> dual alternators I don't expect to ever find myself flying on battery
> power only. So the biggest demand and need for a battery will be in
> starting. I'm wondering if I can downsize from the 16Ah Odyssey that
a
> lot of folks are using now to something even smaller like the 12-13 Ah
> batteries sold by Odyssey, B&C, and others. They still have the same
> attachment hardware so they should be just as robust but they weigh
> several pounds less. The cranking amps are a bit less too depending
on
> temperature (you can see a comparison chart on Odyssey's website at:
> http://www.odysseyfactory.com/specs.htm). Looks like the CCA in a
worst
> case scenario is about 75% of the larger 16Ah battery.
>
> Anyone out there tried a battery like this and have good luck with it
for
> starting? BTW I'm using Lightspeeds and a Sky-Tec starter (but no
primer
> system) so my starts should be pretty snappy...)
>
> Thanks and have a good, safe weekend everybody.
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A N2D finishing...fiberglass...
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
Subject: | Flop tube installtion |
I know I saw somewhere that someones instalation included a cover
riveted over the big center hole on the rib that the door is installed
on. I don't see any mention of that in the directions. Is it suppose to
be covered or not?
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Working on the wings :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike" <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
Subject: | Flop tube installation |
That was probably my installation because I mad a mistake and drilled the
big hole in a rib that I was not suppose to. Riveting a cover over that
hole was just a fix, so if you haven't done so already, don't cut that big
hole in the rib that will contain the flap door. If the hole is already
there, just cut a piece of scrap and cover it up.
http://bmnellis.com/images/Tanks/DCP01736.JPG
http://bmnellis.com/wings_Tanks.htm
Mike
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bobby Hester
> Sent: Saturday, November 16, 2002 8:31 AM
> To: RV7and7A(at)yahoogroups.com; RV-List
> Subject: RV-List: Flop tube installtion
>
>
> I know I saw somewhere that someones instalation included a cover
> riveted over the big center hole on the rib that the door is installed
> on. I don't see any mention of that in the directions. Is it suppose to
> be covered or not?
>
> --
> Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> RV7A Working on the wings :-)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
Subject: | Teak Stick Grip Attachment |
List,
I have a set of Teak Stick Grips that are to be installed in my RV6-A.
Before reinventing the wheel I was wondering how people have attached the grips
to the stick?
Drill and tape using a counter sunk Allen Head? Any neat ideas out there
on a Website I might have missed?
Thanks, Tom in Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Knicholas2(at)aol.com |
Subject: | 28 volt t0 14 volt |
OK - here comes another dumb question. My Lycoming 0-320 E2D that came from
a C-172 appears to have a 28 volt alternator and starter. My plane is wired
for a 14 volt system. Do I need to change anything other than the starter
and alternator/regulator to bring everything to 14 volts?
Kim Nicholas
RV9A
about to hang engine
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
I apologize for the off topic nature of this post, but I know some current
commercial pilots are on this list. Thanks for your understanding.
Best regards,
Don Mei
RV-4
3B9 - Chester, CT
PASS THIS ALERT ALONG TO EVERY AIRLINE PILOT YOU KNOW!
The Homeland Security bill contains language that mandates an armed pilot
program. The House of Representatives has already passed the bill and the
Senate is expected to pass the bill within a few days.
One of the first things the TSA will need is a list of pilots that are
interested in participating in the program. APSA and APA have been
collecting such a list for some time now.
If you are a current passenger airline pilot, and you think you might be
interested in being trained to carry a firearm on the flight deck, please go
to the APSA web site (or the APA web site), click the top left, red button
that says Armed Pilot Initiative Signup. You will be under no obligation
and well keep your contact info confidential. At the appropriate time,
well submit it to the TSA on your behalf. This link will remain open for
subsequent sign ups, but we will be taking all of the existing names from
the database soon to submit them to the TSA.
Thanks for your continuous support of APSA as we move from the legislative
phase to the implementation phase of our armed pilot program.
HTTP://www.secure-skies.org
--
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "rv6tc" <rv6tc(at)earthlink.net> |
Do any of you 'puter types have a small .gif file of an RV that would be
suitable to make in to an animated thing? My wife is making one for a web
site and would like the picture. If you have one on your web site, etc and
it would not be stealing, could you let me know?
Thanks,
Keith "outta my league" Hughes
RV-6
Denver
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | LOC Coming Soon... |
Dear Listers,
This year's List of Contributors (LOC) is just around the corner. I'll be
posting the LOC on or about December 1. The List of Contributors is a
directory of everyone's name that made a Contribution during this year's
List Fund Raiser. Its kind of my way of publicly thanking everyone that so
generously made a Contribution to support the continued operation and
upgrade of these Lists.
Support your Lists today and make sure that your name is on the upcoming
LOC! Your friends will be checking no doubt to see if YOU make your
Contribution because THEY did! :-)
Support Contribution Info - http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | [ Jaye and Scott Jackson ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Jaye and Scott Jackson
Subject: First Flight!
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/jayeandscott@shaw.ca.11.16.2002/index.html
--------------------------------------------
o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
o Main Photo Share Index:
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | [ Jaye and Scott Jackson ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Jaye and Scott Jackson
Subject: First Flight!
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/jayeandscott@shaw.ca.11.16.2002/index.html
--------------------------------------------
o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
o Main Photo Share Index:
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | [ Bob & Lucille Olds ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Bob & Lucille Olds
Subject: Our new RV-4, N1191X
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/oldsfolks@aol.com.11.16.2002/index.html
--------------------------------------------
o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
o Main Photo Share Index:
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | tom sargent <sarg314(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | f-689 elevator push tube installation |
I am trying to install the f-689 elev. push tube. I haven't cut it to
the 47.5" length specified in the drawing yet - it's still 48". I read
in the archives that the whole elevator control linkage is a source of
considerable consternation, but I'm not even to that point yet. I can't
even get the darn thing in the channel thru all those bulk head holes. I
took a 3/4" dowel cut to about 46" long (which does fit in) and am using
that to check out possible installation methods.
Is it necessary/possible/advisable to make a hole in the f-607 bulkhead
to get the tube installed? It looks like it would have to be about an
inch in diameter and would get very close to those structural rivets in
the bottom of the bulkead. If you do make such a hole, should it be
reinforced with a doubler plate?
Have other folks had this much trouble just getting the tube in place?
--
Tom Sargent.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: f-689 elevator push tube installation |
In a message dated 11/16/02 11:40:23 AM Pacific Standard Time,
sarg314(at)earthlink.net writes:
Snip << Is it necessary/possible/advisable to make a hole in the f-607
bulkhead
to get the tube installed? It looks like it would have to be about an
inch in diameter and would get very close to those structural rivets in
the bottom of the bulkead. If you do make such a hole, should it be
reinforced with a doubler plate? Have other folks had this much trouble
just getting the tube in place? >>
It's doable without cutting any holes in the F-607 Tom. It does take a fair
amount of cussing but if you kind of get ahold as close to both ends as you
can and deflect it into a slight bow it will go in. Put a couple of layers
of heavy duct tape on the edges of the bulkhead holes, mostly the top and
bottom, and on the flange of the f-607, to avoid scratches on the f-689 when
your hands give out and you have to relax the bend for a breather. I had to
file the top and bottom of the f-606 and the f-605 cutouts a little after the
tube was in to give clearance for full stick travel. Good luck.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, electrical (still)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ross Schlotthauer <rdschlotthauer(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Flop tube installation |
I cut the big hole anyway because I needed to be able
to tighten the nut on the flop tube fitting. You
could do this with the bulkhead removed if you happen
to remember to do so before you close the tank.
Ross Schlotthauer
RV7 fuse
--- Mike wrote:
>
>
> That was probably my installation because I mad a
> mistake and drilled the
> big hole in a rib that I was not suppose to.
> Riveting a cover over that
> hole was just a fix, so if you haven't done so
> already, don't cut that big
> hole in the rib that will contain the flap door. If
> the hole is already
> there, just cut a piece of scrap and cover it up.
>
> http://bmnellis.com/images/Tanks/DCP01736.JPG
> http://bmnellis.com/wings_Tanks.htm
>
> Mike
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On
> Behalf Of Bobby Hester
> > Sent: Saturday, November 16, 2002 8:31 AM
> > To: RV7and7A(at)yahoogroups.com; RV-List
> > Subject: RV-List: Flop tube installtion
> >
> >
>
> >
> > I know I saw somewhere that someones instalation
> included a cover
> > riveted over the big center hole on the rib that
> the door is installed
> > on. I don't see any mention of that in the
> directions. Is it suppose to
> > be covered or not?
> >
> > --
> > Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> > Visit my web site at:
> http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> > RV7A Working on the wings :-)
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Month --
> Gifts!)
> Click on the Contribution
> Terrific Free Gifts!
> Dralle, List Admin.
> _->
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
Subject: | f-689 elevator push tube installation |
> Is it necessary/possible/advisable to make a hole in the
> f-607 bulkhead
> to get the tube installed? It looks like it would have to be
> about an
> inch in diameter and would get very close to those structural
> rivets in
> the bottom of the bulkead. If you do make such a hole, should it be
> reinforced with a doubler plate?
>
>
> Have other folks had this much trouble just getting the tube in place?
> --
> Tom Sargent.
Assuming you are building an RV6 or A, try the archived message URL's
below - if they show up in your email reader with a space at the line
break, be sure to paste them back together. These were found by
searching the archives for alex & peterson & pushrod (that was easy,
since I am the original poster:
) )
http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=84672025?KEYS
=alex_&_peterson_&_pushrod?LISTNAME=RV?HITNUMBER=3?SERIAL=12285731047?SH
OWBUTTONS=YES
http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=59626919?KEYS
=alex_&_peterson_&_pushrod?LISTNAME=RV?HITNUMBER=5?SERIAL=12285731047?SH
OWBUTTONS=YES
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 229 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
Subject: | f-689 elevator push tube installation |
>
> It's doable without cutting any holes in the F-607 Tom. It
> does take a fair
> amount of cussing but if you kind of get ahold as close to
> both ends as you
> can and deflect it into a slight bow it will go in. Put a
> couple of layers
Not true with all 6's. Some can, some cannot. All cussing (and !
bending?) can be avoided by carving a notch in the F607 web.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 229 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: f-689 elevator push tube installation |
Hi Tom, Yep, I had the same problem! Trying to get in that #*!!$%#&*!#
stupid elevator control rod, it jammed against the belly skin at front and
the top of the rectangular cut-out in the F606 half way to the rear and the
top of the F607 at rear. So using "instruments, long, blunt, and thin" I
ground away the top of the F606 hole as much as I dared (close to the
rivets there). But now it still jams on the top of the F607! So, now I
ground down a slot there, deep enough to allow it to pass through, with a
bit of forcing and springing. You'll lose the top splice rivet in the
process. just put another one (or two) nearby. These are some of the many
snafu's that Van's has in the fuselage they don't tell you about (then). The
worst one was the instruction in the manual that tells you to use the
tooling holes in the 3 rear bulkhead halves to line them up and rivet them.
So I did that--Balderdash!! When I clamped the rear bulkheads to the jig and
tried to get the Main Longeron on a straight line to the rear,--No way! Two
of the bulkheads were 1/2" too wide, and another one was 7/16 too wide! I
had to remove them, drill out the splice-rivets, get them to the right width
and re-drill and rivet! I could go on with a list of snafu's but that is
another story!
Cheers!!!-----Henry
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
Subject: | Re: Hose fittings? |
You will even find that Earl's makes some special purpose fittings
that simply are not available as AN fittings. For example, I used an
Earl's fuel pressure gauge adapter to give me a place to sense fuel
pressure.
http://www.amstreetrod.com/html/gauges.html
Kevin Horton
>
>They are ok to use. They are the same thing, just cheaper. They even are
>the same "AN" sizes. I used Earl's hoses and fittings throughout the plane
>(fuel, brakes, etco)with no problems after 125 hours. Just inspect them
>like anything else, and you'll be fine.
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
>http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
>Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
>http://www.kitlog.com
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Gary Liming" <gary(at)liming.org>
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Hose fittings?
>
>
>>
>> In the March 2001 issue of Sport Aviation, there is a good article on fuel
>> systems. In that article its shows some of the hose fittings, and shows
>> one of the "Earl's" blue and read type fittings that are sold in speed
>> shops that appear to be fine, and which are used by a lot of homebuilders
>> as shown on their websites.
>> Why aren't the racing hoses fitting ok to use?
>> Thanks,
> > Gary Liming
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Chris Woodhouse <chrisw3(at)cox.net> |
RV-list
Well I have been playing with my cad software again. I saw how Paul
Besing made a stand for the fuselage over at
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/tips.html and that got me thinking.
First I wanted something that would be height adjustable. I also wanted
to have a stand in the back to give a little bit better support. I
didn't show it in these models but the vertical part of the stand will
have a telescoping tube with holes every so often to adjust the height.
My attachment in the back is just a 1/2-20 ball link (www.McMaster.com
PN 60645K26) then I weld a 1 3/4 inch long coupler nut to a 1/4" thick
plate and screw it on to the stud of the ball link. Then drill holes to
match some mounting point on the back of the fuselage. For the front I
just have a 1-1/4" OD tube with a 1" ID, I have a hole for it to pivot
up and down on. Then I split the tube along it's length with another
coupler nut on top with the threads drilled out of one half so you can
use a bolt to clamp down on the 1" OD tube that goes inside, that the
fuselage pivots on. I didn't show all the details of the tubes or angle
or channel or what ever other steel you can find to attach your fire
wall to the mounting plate on the stand, because that will be different
for every plane. Well anyway a picture is worth a thousand words so
before I get to a thousand words just go look at the link below.
http://ip68-12-221-171.ok.ok.cox.net:8088/stands/
--
Chris Woodhouse
3147 SW 127th St.
Oklahoma City, OK 73170
405-691-5206 (home)
chrisw(at)programmer.net
N35 20.492'
W97 34.342'
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
Subject: | Looking for links + electrical system diagrams |
Links - I've got a reasonably useful list of RV and Flight Test links at:
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/phplinks/index.php
But, I'm looking for suggestions for links that I should add. I am
looking for any links to info that would be of interest to builders
or flyers of RVs, or to those flight testing homebuilt aircraft.
Note - I am not looking to develop a list of all builder pages - Van
already has one of those, and there is no point in replicating it.
I've got links to a few builder pages, but I want to keep that down
to the best builder sites.
You can e-mail suggestions to me at khorton(at)rogers.com (please don't
simply reply to this message - there is no point in flooding the list
with the replies). Or, you can select the Add a Link link when you
are on my links page and fill in the details there.
Electrical system diagrams - Just in case anyone is interested, I've
posted my work-in-progress electrical system drawings on-line.
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/gallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=album01
Hopefully this long URL won't get split into two lines - if it does
you must copy and paste it back into one piece.
Or, just got to: http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8 Then
select the Electrical System link over on the left side, and you
should be able to figure it out from there.
I know there are probably inconsistencies between some of the
drawings. And some drawings are not yet complete, so they haven't
been posted. I'm not looking for comments - these are just part of
my RV-8 web site that I thought some members of these lists might be
interested in.
Thanks,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (baffles, induction air, oil cooler)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
Subject: | Re: Flop tube installation |
Ross Schlotthauer wrote:
>
>I cut the big hole anyway because I needed to be able
>to tighten the nut on the flop tube fitting. You
>could do this with the bulkhead removed if you happen
>to remember to do so before you close the tank.
>
>Ross Schlotthauer
>RV7 fuse
>
>
>--- Mike wrote:
>
>
>>
>>
>>That was probably my installation because I mad a
>>mistake and drilled the
>>big hole in a rib that I was not suppose to.
>>Riveting a cover over that
>>hole was just a fix, so if you haven't done so
>>already, don't cut that big
>>hole in the rib that will contain the flap door. If
>>the hole is already
>>there, just cut a piece of scrap and cover it up.
>>
>>http://bmnellis.com/images/Tanks/DCP01736.JPG
>>http://bmnellis.com/wings_Tanks.htm
>>
>>Mike
>>
>>
>>
>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On
>>>
>>>
>>Behalf Of Bobby Hester
>>
>>
>>>Sent: Saturday, November 16, 2002 8:31 AM
>>>To: RV7and7A(at)yahoogroups.com; RV-List
>>>Subject: RV-List: Flop tube installtion
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>I know I saw somewhere that someones instalation
>>>
>>>
>>included a cover
>>
>>
>>>riveted over the big center hole on the rib that
>>>
>>>
>>the door is installed
>>
>>
>>>on. I don't see any mention of that in the
>>>
>>>
>>directions. Is it suppose to
>>
>>
>>>be covered or not?
>>>
>>>--
>>>Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
>>>Visit my web site at:
>>>
>>>
>>http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
>>
>>
>>>RV7A Working on the wings :-)
>>>
>>>
>>>
>
>
Ross not the access hole, the hole in the rib that the hinged door is on.
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Working on the wings :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim & Suzy Thorne" <jimnsuz(at)cox.net> |
I had the pleasure of sitting next to a Boeing engineer when the 767 was being
introduced as the first all CAD designed airplane. He shared with me that the
747 has approximately 2,000 lbs. of shims and if I recall correctly the 767 ad
none. That is a whale (no pun intended) of a lot of payload.
Jim Thorne
RV-7A QB
In the uncrating stage
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Fw: WARNING SCAM - 809 AREA CODE |
FW: WARNING SCAM - 809 AREA CODEThought this is worth while!!
Subject: FW: WARNING SCAM - 809 AREA CODE
809 area code
THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT INFORMATION PROVIDED BY AT&T. DON'T EVER DIAL AREA
CODE 809
This one is being distributed all over the US. This is pretty scary,
especially given the way they try to get you to call. Be sure you read this
and pass it on to all your friends and family so they don't get scammed!
MAJOR SCAM: Don't respond to Emails, phone calls, or web pages which tell
you to call an "809" Phone Number. This is a very important issue of Scam
Busters because it alerts you to a scam that is spreading *extremely*
quickly can easily cost you $2400 or more, and is difficult to avoid unless
you are aware of it. We'd like to thank Verizon for bringing this scam to
our attention. This scam has also been identified by the National Fraud
Information Center and is costing victims a lots of money. There are lots
of different permutations of this scam.
HERE'S HOW IT WORKS:
You will receive a message on your answering machine or your pager, which
asks you to call a number beginning with area code 809. The reason you're
asked to call varies. It can be to receive information about a family member
who has been ill, to tell you someone has been arrested, died, to let you
know you have won a wonderful prize, etc. In each case, you are told to call
the 809 number right away. Since there are so many new area codes these
days, people unknowingly return these calls.
If you call from the US, you will apparently be charged $2425 per-minute.
Or, you'll get a long recorded message. The point is, they will try to keep
you on the phone as long as possible to increase the charges. Unfortunately,
when you get your phone bill, you'll often be charged more than $24,100.00.
WHY IT WORKS:
The 809 area code is located in the DOMINICAN REPUBLIC. The 809 area code
can be used as a "pay-per-call" number, similar to 900 numbers in the US.
Since 809 is not in the US, it is not covered by US regulations of 900
numbers, which require that you be notified and warned of charges and rates
involved when you call a "pay-per-call" number.
There is also no requirement that the company provide a time period during
which you may terminate the call without being charged. Further, whereas
many US homes that have 900 number blocking to avoid these kinds of charges,
do not work in preventing calls to the 809 area code. We recommend that no
matter how you get the message, if you are asked to call a number with an
809 area code that you don't recognize just disregard the message. Be wary
of email or calls asking you to call an 809 area code number. It's important
to prevent becoming a victim of this scam, since trying to fight the charges
afterwards can become a real nightmare. That's because you did actually make
the call. If you complain, both your local phone company and your long
distance carrier will not want to get involved and will most likely tell you
that they are simply providing the billing for the foreign company. You'll
end up dealing with a foreign company that argues they have done nothing
wrong. !
Please forward this entire message to your friends, family and colleagues to
help them become aware of this scam.
Sandi Van Handel AT&T Field Service Manager (920) 687-904 Additional
information can be obtained from the following AT&T Web Site
http://www.consumer.att.com/consumertips/area_code.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bert Forero" <bert6(at)mybluelight.com> |
Subject: | Re: F611E elevator stop |
Jeff:
If I understand your question, the stops for the
elevators, once you measure, how much for the up
and down..
They are rivetted under the fuselage skin; the old
drawings are not good...for this. I got the information
later in my case from a friend with new plans, and
from the RVator...I believe I made mine from angle
1/8" you have to fabricate it according to your
needs.
hope this will help
Bert
rv6a
dom not archive
Sign up for Internet Service under $10 dollars a month, at http://isp.BlueLight.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dwpetrus(at)aol.com |
Subject: | N959WP First flight |
Saturday, Nov. 16, RV8A N959WP made first flight. Aerosport Power 0360-A1A
engine and Hartzell constant speed prop from Van's, Airplane flew
wonderfully and the famous RV grin was working overtime. Thanks to my good
friend Glen Barron for all his help.
Wayne Petrus
RV8A flying
Farmerville, La
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | WPAerial(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Flop tube installation |
just wounfered if u have an inverted engine because if u don't u don't need
the flop tube--- extra time and $.
jerry wilkien
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
Subject: | Re: Flop tube installation |
WPAerial(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>just wounfered if u have an inverted engine because if u don't u don't need
>the flop tube--- extra time and $.
>
>jerry wilkien
>
>
No, I don't have any engine, but if I ever wanted to fix it for inverted
and the flop tube was not there, that would be a lot more work than
doing it now.
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Working on the wings :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "R. Craig Chipley" <mechtech81(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | 12 Ah battery anyone? |
Hey All, I have no experience with these electronic
ignition systems. But I do have twenty years fixing
all kinds of airplanes, and flying what I fix. And if
I have learned one thing it is, make sure the back up
is of a different design/power source than the
primary, because of all the failure modes that can
take out your primary, sure as there are pretty girls
at hooters it will fry your backup on the same pass.
Just a thought.
Craig Chipley
RV-8A EMP
N198AB RES
--- czechsix(at)juno.com wrote:
>
> Hi Ed,
>
> Believe me I've given a lot of thought to the "All
> Electric on a Budget" architecture that 'Lectric Bob
> has published using one battery and two
> alternators...I consider myself a pretty risk-averse
> person so I don't take this stuff lightly. Without
> elaborating too much here I'll just say that you're
> right, the battery connection becomes a single-point
> failure in the system (both power and ground
> terminals) plus the engine ground. If any of these
> connections come off the fan quits turning. It's a
> risk but you have to quantify that risk
> realistically....when was the last time you were
> driving down the road in your car and suddenly it
> quit, and you opened the hood to find the battery
> lead had come off (and if so, how old was the
> battery and when was the last time you looked at
> it)? Or how many people out there have found the
> battery lead in an aircraft come loose such that all
> electrical power was lost? I don't doubt that it
> has happened but for a *well-maintained* and insp!
> ected system, it's got to be exceptionally rare.
> Remember you've only got one crank-shaft, one prop,
> one wing spar, etc...so the question becomes whether
> you feel comfortable with the single battery
> considering that the odds are very much in your
> favor that you'll never have a total electrical
> system failure, or whether the extra expense, weight
> and complexity of full dual redundant electrical
> systems is worth it to you for the statistically
> insignificant gain in safety that you get from it.
> In fact, the extra complexity can even work against
> you in an emergency....
>
> I actually considered going with only a single
> alternator and single larger battery (just like
> millions of cars out there) because I figured if the
> alternator failed, the battery would have plenty of
> juice left to get me safely on the ground at the
> nearest airport. But I didn't want to limit my
> options and chance getting stuck in the middle of
> nowhere when it happened or break a sweat wondering
> if my battery would get me where I was going, so the
> second alternator is great insurance as I can fly on
> it indefinitely when using the ESS bus only.
>
> Think about it carefully, make a balanced decision
> and go for it...
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A N2D fiberglass...
>
> ________________________________ Message 33
> ____________________________________
>
>
> From: Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: 12 Ah battery anyone?
>
>
>
> Just curious Mark,
>
> If I read it right, you're using dual lightspeeds.
> Do you feel OK about
> having only one battery? I've been wondering if it's
> safe to run dual
> elec ignitions from one power source for my airplane
> too. If an
> alternator gives out you've got another, but what if
> a battery cable
> loosens up? I've been thinking about a couple of
> small batteries
> crossfed for starting. Any opinions out there?
>
> Ed Holyoke
> 6 QB (slow)
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> > server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> czechsix(at)juno.com
> > Sent: Friday, November 15, 2002 3:48 PM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com;
> aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV-List: 12 Ah battery anyone?
> >
> >
> > Guys, I'm doing the "All electric on a budget"
> setup for my -8A, and
> with
> > dual alternators I don't expect to ever find
> myself flying on battery
> > power only. So the biggest demand and need for a
> battery will be in
> > starting. I'm wondering if I can downsize from
> the 16Ah Odyssey that
> a
> > lot of folks are using now to something even
> smaller like the 12-13 Ah
> > batteries sold by Odyssey, B&C, and others. They
> still have the same
> > attachment hardware so they should be just as
> robust but they weigh
> > several pounds less. The cranking amps are a bit
> less too depending
> on
> > temperature (you can see a comparison chart on
> Odyssey's website at:
> > http://www.odysseyfactory.com/specs.htm). Looks
> like the CCA in a
> worst
> > case scenario is about 75% of the larger 16Ah
> battery.
> >
> > Anyone out there tried a battery like this and
> have good luck with it
> for
> > starting? BTW I'm using Lightspeeds and a Sky-Tec
> starter (but no
> primer
> > system) so my starts should be pretty snappy...)
> >
> > Thanks and have a good, safe weekend everybody.
> >
> > --Mark Navratil
> > Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> > RV-8A N2D finishing...fiberglass...
> >
>
>
>
> Month --
> Gifts!)
> Click on the Contribution
> Terrific Free Gifts!
> Dralle, List Admin.
> _->
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
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>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ken Cantrell <kcflyrv(at)pacbell.net> |
Subject: | Re: [ Jaye and Scott Jackson ] : New Email List Photo Share |
Available!
Congratulations Scott!
Great story. It was a joy to read your account.
Ken Cantrell
RV6 34KC 120 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "Email List Photo Shares" <pictures(at)matronics.com>
Subject: RV-List: [ Jaye and Scott Jackson ] : New Email List Photo Share
Available!
>
>
> A new Email List Photo Share is available:
>
> Poster: Jaye and Scott Jackson
>
>
> Subject: First Flight!
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/jayeandscott@shaw.ca.11.16.2002/index.ht
ml
>
>
> --------------------------------------------
>
> o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
>
> Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
> emailing the files to:
>
> pictures(at)matronics.com
>
> Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
> Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
>
> o Main Photo Share Index:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
>
> --------------------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Jordan" <jrjordan(at)mn.rr.com> |
Subject: | Artificial Horizon/8 degree tilt |
I am beginning to shop for instruments and began seeing the Artificial Horizon
sold with an 8 degree tilt listed as an option. Is this necessary with a taildragger?
If so, why?
Thanks
John Jordan (working on the canopy - RV7)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "T Bronson" <bipetype(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Comfortable parachutes? |
Hi Folks,
Does anyone have an opinion (On THIS list? Ha!) on what types of parachutes
are most comfortable for full-time use? I would like to set my airplane up
for full-time (including long cross-country) parachute use, and would like
to get some recommendations on seatpack vs. backpack vs. whatever else there
is. I have checked the archives - no luck on this topic.
Thanks,
Tim Bronson
Help STOP SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE*
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
Subject: | Artificial Horizon/8 degree tilt |
The 8 degree tilt is independent of tail or nose gear. The 8 degree tilt is
needed to compensate for the tilt of the panel.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (flying)
Vienna, VA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Jordan
Subject: RV-List: Artificial Horizon/8 degree tilt
I am beginning to shop for instruments and began seeing the Artificial
Horizon sold with an 8 degree tilt listed as an option. Is this necessary
with a taildragger? If so, why?
Thanks
John Jordan (working on the canopy - RV7)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ned Thomas" <315(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | RV6 / RV7 Finishing Kit Wanted |
Anyone have a 6A or 7A finishing kit they would part with or an order position
they would sell? Please let me know. I am interested in buying one.
Thanks,
Ned
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Quickbuild VS Standard |
I am trying to decide on a wing kit. Please help me debate the choices, leaving
out the issues of saving money v saving time, kit back orders with Van's, or
the "satisfaction" of doing it myself, as I am aware of these issues. Thanks
for your help in advance!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
Subject: | Re: Artificial Horizon/8 degree tilt |
A taildragger doesn't matter, as the instrument is telling you when you are
in level flight. What matters is the relation of the panel to level flight.
The -6 had a tilt in the panel relative to level flight, so I elected to go
with the 8 degree tilt. I imagine the tilt on the -7 is the same. Look at
the plans and measure the angle of the panel relative to the longerons and
you will see if it has one.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Jordan" <jrjordan(at)mn.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: Artificial Horizon/8 degree tilt
>
> I am beginning to shop for instruments and began seeing the Artificial
Horizon sold with an 8 degree tilt listed as an option. Is this necessary
with a taildragger? If so, why?
>
> Thanks
> John Jordan (working on the canopy - RV7)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rick Galati" <rick07x(at)earthlink.net> |
Elsa and Henry,
Thank you for sharing the hinge attach article. I did not catch it in the
RVator, but found it extremely interesting. The technique described is very
similiar to the way we had to attach the left and right avionics doors just aft
of the nose on the T-45 Goshawk. Each door has only 2 hinges about 5 inches long
but you must be able to slide the hinge pins in and out without the slightest
hesitation. Interchangability requirements greatly compounded the difficulty.
Skeptical? Try to swap out your aileron or flap or any other component on
your RV and make it fit on the RV parked next to yours seamlessly without the
slightest modification. Anyway, the article describes the use of epoxy resin
under the hinges exactly the same way we used liquid shim under the hinges on
those doors. We labored for months and months trying to insure
interchangeability with all manner of solid shims until some young engineer came
up with the liquid shim fix. Now I now that bright engineer was an RV
builder all
along.
- Rick Galati
--- rick07x(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
Subject: | Re: Quickbuild VS Standard |
Glenn Brasch wrote:
>
> I am trying to decide on a wing kit. Please help me debate the choices,
> leaving out the issues of saving money v saving time, kit back orders with
> Van's, or the "satisfaction" of doing it myself, as I am aware of these
> issues. Thanks for your help in advance!
>
>
Wow Glenn, if you leave out all those criteria in your decision making process,
you might have to just buy a Lancair.
Seriously, it sounds like all that's left is whether you can do higher quality
work than the guys over in the far east.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: N959WP First flight |
Wayne,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: Dwpetrus(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: RV-LIST(at)matronics.com, RV8-LIST(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: N959WP First flight
>Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 20:02:48 EST
>
>
>Saturday, Nov. 16, RV8A N959WP made first flight. Aerosport Power 0360-A1A
>engine and Hartzell constant speed prop from Van's, Airplane flew
>wonderfully and the famous RV grin was working overtime. Thanks to my good
>friend Glen Barron for all his help.
>
>Wayne Petrus
>RV8A flying
>Farmerville, La
>
>
MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE*
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: F611E elevator stop |
I simply put my elevator stops riveted on top of the F614 Aft Deck: I made
the rectangular hole there a bit oval shaped so I can get my wrist
through.-(Very useful for later assembly work). I left out the two rivets on
the center of the cross-angle (3/4x3/4x1/8") that secures the top of the
F611 bulkhead to the F614 deck. That allowed inserting a piece of 1/8" thick
aluminum in the center there to act as the elevator horn's front stop,
(full-down elevator). Similarly, the cross-angle that supports the vertical
stab. main spar at the top of the F612 bulkhead, as it is mounted on top of
the L&R main longerons, leaves a 1/8" space which allows inserting another
piece of 1/8" thick aluminum to act as the horn's rear stop (full-up
elevator).These pieces can then be positioned when the horizontal
stab-/-elevator assy is installed, to get the right up/down travel These
pieces can be clamped in place by small C-clamps through the rectangular
hole in the aft deck and later drilled and riveted.
You may find, that after drilling the 1/4" hole that unites the left & right
elevator to the push-rod-end bearing, that the horn weldments do not have
an exact straight match at the flanges that contact the up-down stops. It is
then an easy matter to file the stops so that both horns contact them
simultaneously.
Cheers!!------(Hinge article) Henry Hore
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
Subject: | Metric Conversion |
1 Kilometer = 3281 Feet, from http://microimg.com/science/length.html
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 229 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
> How many feet in one kilometer?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: 12 Ah battery anyone? |
In a message dated 11/16/2002 9:20:04 PM Pacific Standard Time,
mechtech81(at)yahoo.com writes:
> Sure as there are pretty girls
> at hooters it will fry your backup on the same pass.
I think that you should be chastised for not capitalizing Hooters, so show
some respect... and should it be possessive or not? Do one or many hooters
mentioned actually own the establishment?
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 575hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Artificial Horizon/8 degree tilt |
In a message dated 11/17/2002 6:25:59 AM Pacific Standard Time,
jrjordan(at)mn.rr.com writes:
> I am beginning to shop for instruments and began seeing the Artificial
> Horizon sold with an 8 degree tilt listed as an option. Is this necessary
> with a taildragger?
Let me see if I can write this slowly so we both can understand it. What
matters most is the position of the panel relative to the viewer's eye when
the airplane is in the cruise attitude. The nose position adjustment knob
only has so much "throw" in adjusting the height of the little airplane
inside the gyro. Ideally the adjustment should be in the center of its throw
at about 7,000 ft, as the airplane needs to fly a little more tail high at
low altitude and a little more tail low at high altitude to get the same
amount of lift and not be ascending or descending. The angled panel relative
to the vertical in all Van's aircraft makes the 8-10 degree modification
needed, if you want this adjustment to be in the advised range and not at its
limit.
In either case (conventional more so than tricycle gear), I'm sure you can
see that the panel (and therefore the attitude gyro) will usually not be in
the cruise flight attitude when the airplane is sitting on the tarmac. In
the case of the conventional (tail dragger) gear, it is obviously not in the
cruise attitude but some tricycle geared planes such as the 6A also sit a
little tail low. Some tricycle gear planes sit more bolt upright, so this
may not be the case with the 9A and others (look at the longitudinal level
line normal to plumb). Therefore, you can never accurately set the nose
position of the instrument on the ground, unless you know what it is relative
to the in-flight attitude.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 575hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
Subject: | When to bend the upper firewall? |
I noticed on a QB kit the other day that it came with the bend already made
in the upper firewall. I'm prepping my fuselage for the big riveting job,
and I'm wondering if there's a technique for bending the firewall that works
easily as well with the firewall off or on. I figure it's now or never if I
want to bend it when it's off the fuselage.
Any advice?
Thanks,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (fuselage)
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
Subject: | Re: Metric Conversion |
> How many feet in one kilometer?
A very Canadian question! There are 3283 feet 4 inches in one kilometre.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
-6 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson(at)mcleodusa.net> |
Subject: | Re: Comfortable parachutes? |
T Bronson wrote:
>
> Hi Folks,
>
> Does anyone have an opinion (On THIS list? Ha!) on what types of parachutes
> are most comfortable for full-time use? I would like to set my airplane up
> for full-time (including long cross-country) parachute use, and would like
> to get some recommendations on seatpack vs. backpack vs. whatever else there
> is. I have checked the archives - no luck on this topic.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim Bronson
>
> Help STOP SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE*
> http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
>
Good question. I don't have the answer though.
We were just discussing this very thing a few nights ago. I fly a Pitt's S1S
mostly just for fun now. I always wear a chute. Mine is an old Security 250, It
is very comfortable on long trips. I feel naked without it. It is kind of a
combination seat-back pack. One time when it was repacked, it was done wrong and
the pilot chute was right in the middle of my back, like a rock in your shoe...
Last year I ferried an S1 home for a friend. I think he had a National that was
packed like that. It was an uncomfortable two legs.
Maybe a rigger will respond, but I think the comfort is more in the packing than
the type of chute. There are definitely some that are better than others, but
still the pack is very important.
I am going to have a pair of Securities as seats when I get the "6" in the air,
because I have a matched set of very good ones. I may have them fitted with
newer type canopies.
There are several on the market that are just as comfortable.
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Metric Conversion |
Simple: 1 KM = 100,000 cm.. 30.48 cm = 1 foot . Therefore 100,000 divided by
30.48 cm. 3280.83 feet!! Cheers!!-------Henry
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | Re: Comfortable parachutes? |
T Bronson wrote:
>
>
> Hi Folks,
>
> Does anyone have an opinion (On THIS list? Ha!) on what types of parachutes
> are most comfortable for full-time use? I would like to set my airplane up
> for full-time (including long cross-country) parachute use, and would like
> to get some recommendations on seatpack vs. backpack vs. whatever else there
> is. I have checked the archives - no luck on this topic.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim Bronson
Maybe a question that needs to be considered before too much effort is
expended on chutes is "Can I get out of the plane?"
Chutes would be useless in my RV-6 tip-up because you could never get
the canopy open far enough to vacate the plane. There has been
considerable discussion previously as to whether or not the rear
passenger in an RV-8 would be able to get past the canopy. I'm not even
sure you would be able to get the slider on a RV-6/7/9 to stay open long
enough or far enough to get out in one piece.
The RV canopies really weren't designed with jumping in mind.......
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "MSices" <msices(at)core.com> |
Subject: | 12 Ah battery anyone? |
Don't the alternator's need juice from the battery to keep doing their
thing? If so, what if you had a battery go bad in flight (stops taking a
charge) - then the dual alternator setup might not help.
I am using the smaller Odysey in my -8 - the PC545 (which is 12ah) as
opposed to the PC625 (16ah or something like that) which Van's sells. The
cca (cold cranking amps) for starting with even the smallest Odyssey is
quite a bit better than an even larger ah battery from Concord - so I don't
believe starting will be a problem with the smaller battery - unless you are
cranking it over for long periods of time and draining the entire battery on
the ground (is that a real concern?). If that is not the concern, then the
only question left is how much time do you want in the air after a (dual?)
alternator failure. 12ah will provide 25amps for about 22 minutes (don't
quote me on that) and 16 ah will buy you an extra 10 minutes or so. For my
single lightspeed installation, I chose an exp bus with backup battery
circuitry - using a small reserve 5ah battery. Probably completely
overkill - but its nice to know that if the battery goes bad runs out, my
com and ignition can stay powered without skipping a beat.
-Mike Sices
RV-8 wiring
N339JA res
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of R. Craig Chipley
Subject: RE: RV-List: 12 Ah battery anyone?
Hey All, I have no experience with these electronic
ignition systems. But I do have twenty years fixing
all kinds of airplanes, and flying what I fix. And if
I have learned one thing it is, make sure the back up
is of a different design/power source than the
primary, because of all the failure modes that can
take out your primary, sure as there are pretty girls
at hooters it will fry your backup on the same pass.
Just a thought.
Craig Chipley
RV-8A EMP
N198AB RES
--- czechsix(at)juno.com wrote:
>
> Hi Ed,
>
> Believe me I've given a lot of thought to the "All
> Electric on a Budget" architecture that 'Lectric Bob
> has published using one battery and two
> alternators...I consider myself a pretty risk-averse
> person so I don't take this stuff lightly. Without
> elaborating too much here I'll just say that you're
> right, the battery connection becomes a single-point
> failure in the system (both power and ground
> terminals) plus the engine ground. If any of these
> connections come off the fan quits turning. It's a
> risk but you have to quantify that risk
> realistically....when was the last time you were
> driving down the road in your car and suddenly it
> quit, and you opened the hood to find the battery
> lead had come off (and if so, how old was the
> battery and when was the last time you looked at
> it)? Or how many people out there have found the
> battery lead in an aircraft come loose such that all
> electrical power was lost? I don't doubt that it
> has happened but for a *well-maintained* and insp!
> ected system, it's got to be exceptionally rare.
> Remember you've only got one crank-shaft, one prop,
> one wing spar, etc...so the question becomes whether
> you feel comfortable with the single battery
> considering that the odds are very much in your
> favor that you'll never have a total electrical
> system failure, or whether the extra expense, weight
> and complexity of full dual redundant electrical
> systems is worth it to you for the statistically
> insignificant gain in safety that you get from it.
> In fact, the extra complexity can even work against
> you in an emergency....
>
> I actually considered going with only a single
> alternator and single larger battery (just like
> millions of cars out there) because I figured if the
> alternator failed, the battery would have plenty of
> juice left to get me safely on the ground at the
> nearest airport. But I didn't want to limit my
> options and chance getting stuck in the middle of
> nowhere when it happened or break a sweat wondering
> if my battery would get me where I was going, so the
> second alternator is great insurance as I can fly on
> it indefinitely when using the ESS bus only.
>
> Think about it carefully, make a balanced decision
> and go for it...
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A N2D fiberglass...
>
> ________________________________ Message 33
> ____________________________________
>
>
> From: Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: 12 Ah battery anyone?
>
>
>
> Just curious Mark,
>
> If I read it right, you're using dual lightspeeds.
> Do you feel OK about
> having only one battery? I've been wondering if it's
> safe to run dual
> elec ignitions from one power source for my airplane
> too. If an
> alternator gives out you've got another, but what if
> a battery cable
> loosens up? I've been thinking about a couple of
> small batteries
> crossfed for starting. Any opinions out there?
>
> Ed Holyoke
> 6 QB (slow)
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> > server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> czechsix(at)juno.com
> > Sent: Friday, November 15, 2002 3:48 PM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com;
> aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV-List: 12 Ah battery anyone?
> >
> >
> > Guys, I'm doing the "All electric on a budget"
> setup for my -8A, and
> with
> > dual alternators I don't expect to ever find
> myself flying on battery
> > power only. So the biggest demand and need for a
> battery will be in
> > starting. I'm wondering if I can downsize from
> the 16Ah Odyssey that
> a
> > lot of folks are using now to something even
> smaller like the 12-13 Ah
> > batteries sold by Odyssey, B&C, and others. They
> still have the same
> > attachment hardware so they should be just as
> robust but they weigh
> > several pounds less. The cranking amps are a bit
> less too depending
> on
> > temperature (you can see a comparison chart on
> Odyssey's website at:
> > http://www.odysseyfactory.com/specs.htm). Looks
> like the CCA in a
> worst
> > case scenario is about 75% of the larger 16Ah
> battery.
> >
> > Anyone out there tried a battery like this and
> have good luck with it
> for
> > starting? BTW I'm using Lightspeeds and a Sky-Tec
> starter (but no
> primer
> > system) so my starts should be pretty snappy...)
> >
> > Thanks and have a good, safe weekend everybody.
> >
> > --Mark Navratil
> > Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> > RV-8A N2D finishing...fiberglass...
> >
>
>
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> _->
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Camille Hawthorne" <cammie(at)sunvalley.net> |
Subject: | Re: Flop tube installation |
I installed one flop tube even though I probably won't be able to get the
inverted oil system or fuel injection any time soon. My thinking is that the
flop tube is a cheap and easy mod that would be difficult to install after
the acft is flying, in case I have the funds to upgrade the engine later.
Besides, even without the inverted engine stuff, at least it won't quit
running at the top of a loop, as it would without the flop tube.
Cammie
>
> just wounfered if u have an inverted engine because if u don't u don't
need
> the flop tube--- extra time and $.
>
> jerry wilkien
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gary & Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)direcpc.com> |
Subject: | Re: Metric Conversion |
Must be the Canadian math or cold winters. 1km = 3280.83 ft. which works out
to 3280 feet 10-5/64 inches
Tedd McHenry wrote:
>
> > How many feet in one kilometer?
>
> A very Canadian question! There are 3283 feet 4 inches in one kilometre.
>
> Tedd McHenry
> Surrey, BC
> -6 wings
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Metric Conversion |
In a message dated 11/17/02 9:17:51 AM Pacific Standard Time,
nhunger(at)sprint.ca writes:
How many feet in one kilometer?
Roughly 3280.8336.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, electrical (still)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Flop tube installation |
Camille Hawthorne wrote:
>
> I installed one flop tube even though I probably won't be able to get the
> inverted oil system or fuel injection any time soon. My thinking is that the
> flop tube is a cheap and easy mod that would be difficult to install after
> the acft is flying, in case I have the funds to upgrade the engine later.
> Besides, even without the inverted engine stuff, at least it won't quit
> running at the top of a loop, as it would without the flop tube.
> Cammie
>
>
>
No no, it well not quit running at the top of a loop, if done right a loop
is a positive manuver.
Jerry (done many many loops) Springer
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Comfortable parachutes? |
Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
>
> T Bronson wrote:
>
>>
>>Hi Folks,
>>
>>Does anyone have an opinion (On THIS list? Ha!) on what types of parachutes
>>are most comfortable for full-time use? I would like to set my airplane up
>>for full-time (including long cross-country) parachute use, and would like
>>to get some recommendations on seatpack vs. backpack vs. whatever else there
>>is. I have checked the archives - no luck on this topic.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>Tim Bronson
>
>
>
> Maybe a question that needs to be considered before too much effort is
> expended on chutes is "Can I get out of the plane?"
>
> Chutes would be useless in my RV-6 tip-up because you could never get
> the canopy open far enough to vacate the plane. There has been
> considerable discussion previously as to whether or not the rear
> passenger in an RV-8 would be able to get past the canopy. I'm not even
> sure you would be able to get the slider on a RV-6/7/9 to stay open long
> enough or far enough to get out in one piece.
>
> The RV canopies really weren't designed with jumping in mind.......
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
>
>
Unless you have the canopy eject handle. But then there is no hard
data to say it WOULD work. :-)
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
Subject: | electrical system diagrams |
Someone requested pdf versions of my electrical system drawings. So,
the list of links to the pdf files is at:
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/article.php?story 02110613250638
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (baffles, induction air, oil cooler)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
Subject: | Re: Flop tube installation |
>
> Besides, even without the inverted engine stuff, at least it won't quit
> running at the top of a loop, as it would without the flop tube.
> Cammie
>
>
What?
Maybe you could further explain what you mean. I've never had the engine
quit at the top of a loop. If I messed up and went to negative G, the
engine would stop much more quickly from the effects of negative G on the
carburator than it would from fuel starvation. There is a lot of fuel in
the lines.
From experience I know that at near 0 G, engine stoppage is essentially
instantaneous in my airplane.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
Subject: | Re: Metric Conversion |
> Must be the Canadian math or cold winters. 1km = 3280.83 ft. which works out
> to 3280 feet 10-5/64 inches
Yeah, I have to admit I used an inaccurate conversion. My apologies.
Tedd
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
Subject: | When to bend the upper firewall? |
I just deflected mine to match the ribs, no need to "bend" it.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 229 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
> I noticed on a QB kit the other day that it came with the
> bend already made in the upper firewall. I'm prepping my
> fuselage for the big riveting job, and I'm wondering if
> there's a technique for bending the firewall that works
> easily as well with the firewall off or on. I figure it's
> now or never if I want to bend it when it's off the fuselage.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Oil cooler for sale |
From: | Michael D Hilger <rvsixer(at)juno.com> |
Listers,
I have a Niagara 7-row oil cooler from Van's for sale. It was
installed in my -6 (O-360) for approx 300 hrs. I installed a 9-row cooler
in it's place. This would be suitable for a baffle mounted installation
(mine is remote mounted and wasn't efficient enough). I am asking $140.00
and I'll ship. Please contact me off-list.
Mike Hilger
rvsixer(at)juno.com
RV-6, N207AM
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Michael D Hilger <rvsixer(at)juno.com> |
I have the following "leftovers" for sale from my completed project:
1 ea. Van's adjustable voltage regulator - $20
2 ea. Wemac air vents, 2470-05, 1.5" dia - $12 ea
2 ea. Wemac air vents, B-2150, 1" dia - $12 ea
1 ea. Hobbs #15000, rectangular quartz hourmeter - $20
2 ea. Isspro fuel gauges, #R8690 (no Van's logo) - $15 ea
1 ea. Koger sunshade kit, RV-6 slider - $100
All are new in the box and I will ship. Please contact me off-list
if interested.
Mike Hilger
rvsixer(at)juno.com
RV-6, N207AM, 320 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ned Thomas" <315(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | RV6 Fuselage dimensions |
I am trying to size a truck to pick up my just purchased RV6. Anyone know
the dimensions of the fuselage? Specifically, from the firewall back aft to
the back of the cabin before it begins its taper to the tail. And about how
thick is it at the tail? and distance from tail to the back of the cabin.
Is the cabin abot 48" at its widest?
Thanks,
Ned
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 11/17/2002 4:51:49 PM Pacific Standard Time,
bert6(at)mybluelight.com writes:
> Lycoming engine 0320- 160 H.p. AFTER 80
> HRS. burns 6.1 gph average. Is that correct?
> All gages on green. I think is great of that low
> fuel burning: but...any comments?
If properly leaned and averaging around 54% power, your numbers are correct.
0.54 * 160 * 0.425 * 0.16666667 = 6.12 gph
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 575hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Imfairings(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: N959WP First flight |
Congrats Wayne !! Every chance I get to fly in an RV I get the grin too.
Bob
Fairings-Etc.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
Subject: | Re: 12 Ah battery anyone? |
MSices wrote:
>
> I am using the smaller Odysey in my -8 - the PC545 (which is 12ah) as
> opposed to the PC625 (16ah or something like that) which Van's sells. The
> cca (cold cranking amps) for starting with even the smallest Odyssey is
> quite a bit better than an even larger ah battery from Concord - so I don't
> believe starting will be a problem with the smaller battery - unless you are
> cranking it over for long periods of time and draining the entire battery on
> the ground (is that a real concern?).
Actually, starting could be a problem with a 12 AH battery.
The Sky Tec starter draws 200 amps which gives you about 7.5 minutes of cranking
with a 25 ampere hour battery. With a 12 AH battery you'll get half that time or
about 3.5 minutes which should be fine if the battery is new, the weather is
warm and the engine starts easily, but even here in southern California, those
3
things seldom happen at the same time.
Just this morning I watched a Cheroke pilot run the battery down (25 AH battery
and O-320) because of a hard start.
Saving weight is a good thing but the trade off might be more than you want to
deal with.
Dave -6 SoCal
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
Subject: | Comfortable parachutes? |
The canopy "ejects" just FINE on RV-4's..... (don't ask how I know :>).
> > The RV canopies really weren't designed with jumping in mind.......
> >
> > Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
> >
> >
>
> Unless you have the canopy eject handle. But then there is no hard
> data to say it WOULD work. :-)
>
> Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
Bert:
Sounds like 2,100 RPM and 22 inches MP. That should be somewhere around 55%
power. 122 KIAS (140 MPH IAS) or 135 KTAS (155 MPH TAS). Does this agree
with your speeds?
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,214 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Bert Forero" <bert6(at)mybluelight.com>
Subject: RV-List: Leaning
Date: 18 Nov 2002 00:49:37 -0000
Hello:
Lycoming engine 0320- 160 H.p. AFTER 80
HRS. burns 6.1 gph average. Is that correct?
all gages on geen. I think is great of that low
fuel burning: but...any comments?
Thanks
Bert
rv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stan Blanton" <stanb(at)door.net> |
> >Listers,
> >Anyone out there know what is involved in
> >making a IO-540 W1A5 (235 hp) produce
> >260 hp?
> > The big difference between this engine and
> >a IO-540 T4B5 is 2400 rpm vs 2700 rpm.
> >Are the crankshaft counterweights different?
> >Thanks, Stewart
> >
Here's a link to a Lycoming site that has all their different engines listed
and their evolution from one model to the next.
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/document.jsp?bodyPage=productSales/engineSpe
cifications/SSP401.pdf
(The link may wrap)
A number of the engine models are the same internally but have different
outputs based on their RPM ratings. For example the O-540E4A5 is "the same
as the -A4D5 execpt for higher speed and rating". They both have the same
mags and compression ratio. You could convert an engine to another model by
going thru the parts list and installing the appropriate parts that might be
different such as sumps or mags.
For the specific differences you would need to go throught the parts list
for each engine.
Lycoming has an O-540 / 235hp @ 2575rpm / 7.2 cr (O-540-B4B5)and an O-540 /
235hp / 8.5 cr @2400 rpm (O-540-J3C5D) so they do get the rated power a
couple of different ways. They juggle rpm and compresion ratio.
Stan Blanton
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | [ Rob Ray ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Rob Ray
Subject: Rob Ray's "Bandit"
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/smokyray@yahoo.com.11.17.2002/index.html
--------------------------------------------
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | sjhdcl(at)kingston.net |
Subject: | Canopy Release Tip-up |
Ref Tip up canopy RV7A
After spending the better part of the day (cutting steel is fun!) making the
canopy release I started to wonder if anybody omitted this part.
It seems to work fine, and its pretty robust, but is it required? Has anybody
just used AN4-x bolts with cotter pins to hold the tip up on? I do like the
idea of being able to eject the canopy, but I just had a thought. I did have to
modify the F-643-1 support rib as well as trim a bit of the F687 (part #?) to
get the proper fit.
Of course if the part was omitted one would have some kind of canopy shattering
tool close by.
Any comments? Anybody actually used it? How well does it work?
Steve Hurlbut
RV7A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JCTV <jctv(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Tight Space Dimpling - HELP! |
I need some help from someone who's "been there, done
that". I am working on the replacement rudder,(RV-9
style), for my RV7, and Itiringring to dimple the top
tip rib,(R-903), but I can not figure out how to get
to last two holes dimpled on the tapered back end.
I was able to get most of the holes dimpled using a
combinationdifferentrsqueezereser yokes and the pop
rivet dimpler set from Avery tools. But the last two
holes are so tight I can not get anything to work.
What am I missing?
Thanks in advance,
Jeff Cook
RV-7A, Rudder
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | I don't quite understand how to rivet the bottom skins on, especialy |
where it said to not rivet the skin to skin till last
From: | "Phil Jones" <phil.jones(at)medpacs.com> |
I know this must have been asked before, but I can't find it in the archive.
Is there some better description of the procedure to rivet the bottom skins
on then what is in the manul? The part which I really don't understand is
where it said to not rivet the skin to skin (where its not on the rib) till
last. How in the world would you get to it after everything else is riveted?
Phil Jones
RV-7A #70947
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV9 <rv9(at)charter.net> |
Subject: | Re: Tight Space Dimpling - HELP! |
J> I need some help from someone who's "been there, done
J> that". I am working on the replacement rudder,(RV-9
J> style), for my RV7, and Itiringring to dimple the top
J> tip rib,(R-903), but I can not figure out how to get
J> to last two holes dimpled on the tapered back end.
J> I was able to get most of the holes dimpled using a
J> combinationdifferentrsqueezereser yokes and the pop
J> rivet dimpler set from Avery tools. But the last two
J> holes are so tight I can not get anything to work.
J> What am I missing?
I was able to dimple those last two holes using the Avery Vise-Grip
dimpling tool. It's very tight and I had to open the flange ever so
slightly.
Steve Mottin
RV-9A (N609RV Reserved) - Empennage
Granbury, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
Subject: | Re: Canopy Release Tip-up |
Alot of people, including myself have ommitted this function. It isn't
really an emergency release, as most have discussed in the past. You cant
take the canopy off in flight with the release. You would have to push the
canopy all the way forward and then lift up, just to get it off. What
several people do is modify the release so that it is all under the panel,
so it can be accessed on the ground if a canopy removal is necessary for
maitenance. Sam Buchanan's web site has some pictures of this option.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <sjhdcl(at)kingston.net>
Subject: RV-List: Canopy Release Tip-up
>
> Ref Tip up canopy RV7A
>
> After spending the better part of the day (cutting steel is fun!) making
the
> canopy release I started to wonder if anybody omitted this part.
>
> It seems to work fine, and its pretty robust, but is it required? Has
anybody
> just used AN4-x bolts with cotter pins to hold the tip up on? I do like
the
> idea of being able to eject the canopy, but I just had a thought. I did
have to
> modify the F-643-1 support rib as well as trim a bit of the F687 (part #?)
to
> get the proper fit.
November 11, 2002 - November 18, 2002
RV-Archive.digest.vol-nu