RV-Archive.digest.vol-nv
November 18, 2002 - November 27, 2002
>
> Of course if the part was omitted one would have some kind of canopy
shattering
> tool close by.
>
> Any comments? Anybody actually used it? How well does it work?
>
> Steve Hurlbut
> RV7A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robin Hunt" <robinrmh(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | RE: RV-List Digest: 50 Msgs - 11/17/02 |
Dual batteries/alternators/electronic ignitions
I recently installed a second lightspeed ignition in my aircraft and at
the same time removed my 3 year old concord battery and installed two
Odyssey batteries. Same weight(almost) as the old concord, but I do
have redundancy. I made the choice not to have dual alternators. The
cost is high and I feel that if I have failure of an alternator and if I
manage my electrical consumption, I have two hours of flight time
easily. Now with one of these fast RV's, that should get me to an
airport. And yes, those alternators do require some voltage from a
battery to operate. The chances of a complete battery failure are very
slim, but with dual electronic ignitions, I felt that I MUST have dual
batteries.
Searching the internet , I have found that there are even lighter and
just as powerful batteries as the odyssey. Sam Buchanan,
(http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/battery.htm see his web sight) has
found some batteries for under $40.00. Now I can replace one battery
each year at annual time and always have a battery less than one year
old in my airplane for $40.00 per year. Pretty cheap insurance.
Sunday, I cranked my 200 hp engine at 30 degrees, with just one of my
batteries(just to see how it worked). It started in two blades very
nicely.
Point is, that if you use Electric Bob's architecture and spring for two
light weight batteries, any dual electronic ignition should be fine. Of
course for almost fool proof reliability, use one mag.
Robin Hunt
RV-8 350 hours
________________________________
From: "MSices" <msices(at)core.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: 12 Ah battery anyone?
Don't the alternator's need juice from the battery to keep doing their
thing? If so, what if you had a battery go bad in flight (stops taking
a
charge) - then the dual alternator setup might not help.
I am using the smaller Odysey in my -8 - the PC545 (which is 12ah) as
opposed to the PC625 (16ah or something like that) which Van's sells.
The
cca (cold cranking amps) for starting with even the smallest Odyssey is
quite a bit better than an even larger ah battery from Concord - so I
don't
believe starting will be a problem with the smaller battery - unless you
are
cranking it over for long periods of time and draining the entire
battery on
the ground (is that a real concern?). If that is not the concern, then
the
only question left is how much time do you want in the air after a
(dual?)
alternator failure. 12ah will provide 25amps for about 22 minutes
(don't
quote me on that) and 16 ah will buy you an extra 10 minutes or so.
For my
single lightspeed installation, I chose an exp bus with backup battery
circuitry - using a small reserve 5ah battery. Probably completely
overkill - but its nice to know that if the battery goes bad runs out,
my
com and ignition can stay powered without skipping a beat.
-Mike Sices
RV-8 wiring
N339JA res
@juno.com
>
> Just curious Mark,
>
> If I read it right, you're using dual lightspeeds.
> Do you feel OK about
> having only one battery? I've been wondering if it's
> safe to run dual
> elec ignitions from one power source for my airplane
> too. If an
> alternator gives out you've got another, but what if
> a battery cable
> loosens up? I've been thinking about a couple of
> small batteries
> crossfed for starting. Any opinions out there?
>
> Ed Holyoke
> 6 QB (slow)
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> > server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> czechsix(at)juno.com
> have good luck with it
> for
> > starting? BTW I'm using Lightspeeds and a Sky-Tec
> starter (but no
> primer
> > system) so my starts should be pretty snappy...)
> >
> > Thanks and have a good, safe weekend everybody.
> >
> > --Mark Navratil
> > Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> > RV-8A N2D finishing...fiberglass...
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Stewart,
Regarding your question on the crankshaft counterweights, it depends on the engine/prop
certification. If you are using a Hartzell compact-hub propeller then
your engine will require the appropriate counterweights for the prop you are
using. If you look into the TCDS's they will say something to the effect of
"counterweighted for the Hartzell propeller." The counterweights are easily changeable,
of course, when you have the engine apart. I believe that they are
changable by pulling the cylinders, also. There's just a circlip that holds
them in place on the crank. If you change the counterweights you can request
from Lycoming a new dataplate for $150 with the new model designation (they also
add a "C" to the model # suffix to reflect a converted engine). The RPM limitation
is just a matter of recalibrating the governor.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360 C/S flying
F1 QB under const.
IO-540 275hp 9.2:1 pistons "there's no replacement for displacement"
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | Re: Canopy Release Tip-up |
sjhdcl(at)kingston.net wrote:
>
>
> Ref Tip up canopy RV7A
>
> After spending the better part of the day (cutting steel is fun!) making the
> canopy release I started to wonder if anybody omitted this part.
Yes they have.
>
> It seems to work fine, and its pretty robust, but is it required? Has anybody
> just used AN4-x bolts with cotter pins to hold the tip up on? I do like the
> idea of being able to eject the canopy, but I just had a thought. I did have
to
> modify the F-643-1 support rib as well as trim a bit of the F687 (part #?) to
> get the proper fit.
I modified the release mechanism so it would point "down" and could be
reached under the panel. The point was to make the canopy easily
removable for maintenance purposes; however, in the course of
accumulating 430 hrs and numerous panel modifications, I have not found
it necessary to remove the canopy.
If I ever revisit this issue, I will mount the canopy with bolts and
omit the release mechanism so sub-panel space can be gained in the
middle of the panel.
It is my personal opinion that the release is useless for actually
jettisoning the canopy in flight.
>
> Of course if the part was omitted one would have some kind of canopy shattering
> tool close by.
You already have one......the passenger control stick would make a very
effective escape tool!
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Neil McLeod" <bedrock(at)theriver.com> |
Subject: | Re: Comfortable parachutes? |
I have flown up to 7 hours in a sailplane with my Strong back pack and it
was very comfortable. I plan to use a Strong chair type in my 7. I have had
friends bail out of planes in emergency situations and it is amazing what
they could do when the adrenaline was pumping.
Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson(at)mcleodusa.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Comfortable parachutes?
>
> T Bronson wrote:
>
> >
> > Hi Folks,
> >
> > Does anyone have an opinion (On THIS list? Ha!) on what types of
parachutes
> > are most comfortable for full-time use? I would like to set my airplane
up
> > for full-time (including long cross-country) parachute use, and would
like
> > to get some recommendations on seatpack vs. backpack vs. whatever else
there
> > is. I have checked the archives - no luck on this topic.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Tim Bronson
> >
> > Help STOP SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE*
> > http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
> >
>
> Good question. I don't have the answer though.
>
> We were just discussing this very thing a few nights ago. I fly a Pitt's
S1S
> mostly just for fun now. I always wear a chute. Mine is an old Security
250, It
> is very comfortable on long trips. I feel naked without it. It is kind of
a
> combination seat-back pack. One time when it was repacked, it was done
wrong and
> the pilot chute was right in the middle of my back, like a rock in your
shoe...
>
> Last year I ferried an S1 home for a friend. I think he had a National
that was
> packed like that. It was an uncomfortable two legs.
>
> Maybe a rigger will respond, but I think the comfort is more in the
packing than
> the type of chute. There are definitely some that are better than others,
but
> still the pack is very important.
>
> I am going to have a pair of Securities as seats when I get the "6" in the
air,
> because I have a matched set of very good ones. I may have them fitted
with
> newer type canopies.
> There are several on the market that are just as comfortable.
>
> Phil
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RAMTHAXTON(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Roll bar/windscreen seal |
Has anyone tried using 3M EC3524 Void Filling Compound to seal the
windscreen/rollbar gaps. My mechanic at work swears by the stuff.
Bob Thaxton
RV-7 (711RT res)
ramthaxton(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re Hinge Article-- material sources |
Of the 40 builders that have asked for copies of the article, I noted that quite
a few of you are in Canada. (Delta BC seems to be a nest of them!) You might
be interested to know that the "Floating row cover" that is mentioned, pieces
of which I "liberated" from my wife was bought at Lee Valley (XC505). You won't
use much of the 7x50' roll, but it would make a good Xmas present for gardening
Wives (Girl friends) and for those of you that don't have West Systems epoxy,
(horrors! that's the only stuff to use!), they have that too!-------Cheers!!---------Henry
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
Subject: | 12 Ah battery anyone? |
I was also concerned about the single-point-of-failure with the "All
Electric on a Budget" system. I modified Bob's design slightly and added a
.8 AH battery to the SD-8 circuit. The result is two completely independent
electrical systems. I now have 110 hours on the airplane. I check the
backup system (SD-8 on essential buss) on each run-up before flight; it has
worked perfectly every time.
Ken Harrill
RV-6 110 hours
Columbia, SC
....the battery connection becomes a single-point failure in the system
(both power and ground terminals) plus the engine ground
--Mark Navratil
...If an alternator gives out you've got another, but what if a battery
cable
loosens up? ...
Ed Holyoke
6 QB (slow)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
Bob,
Thanks for this information!!!
A big help for this Rocket bound engine.
Stewart
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ralph Capen"<recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Tight Space Dimpling - HELP! |
I've just done some of this...
I ended up with a small piece of aluminum that was machine countersunk that I
used as a female dimple-die. That coupled with a my squeezer (no-hole yoke -
ground down to fit inside) and the regular male dimple die produced
satisfactory results. If you need more info / pictures...zap me directly
Ralph Capen
>
> I need some help from someone who's "been
> there, done
> that". I am working on the replacement
> rudder,(RV-9
> style), for my RV7, and Itiringring to dimple
> the top
> tip rib,(R-903), but I can not figure out how
> to get
> to last two holes dimpled on the tapered back
> end.
>
> I was able to get most of the holes dimpled
> using a
> combinationdifferentrsqueezereser yokes and the
> pop
> rivet dimpler set from Avery tools. But the
> last two
> holes are so tight I can not get anything to
> work.
>
> What am I missing?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Jeff Cook
> RV-7A, Rudder
>
>
> This Month --
> Gifts!)
> Click on the Contribution
> year's Terrific Free Gifts!
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> -
> the Contributions of
> ads or any other form
> Forums.
> view the latest messages.
> other List members.
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> http://www.matronics.com/
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jerry" <jdoyal(at)sport.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: N959WP First flight |
----- Original Message -----
From: <Imfairings(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: N959WP First flight
>
> Congrats Wayne !! Every chance I get to fly in an RV I get the grin too.
> Bob
> Fairings-Etc.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jerry" <jdoyal(at)sport.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: N959WP First flight |
I am building an RV8A and have built a 6A in the past. I went to Farmerville
La. today to see Wayne Petrus new 8A, his first flight was yesterday. A
great looking plane! Are there any other builders in North Louisiana or East
Texas, or anyone else getting ready to build a RV? I live in Shreveport and
would like to get together with other builders in my area to help with their
project or just to keep in touch with. Please E-Mail me.
Jerry Doyal
jdoyal(at)sport.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <Imfairings(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: N959WP First flight
>
> Congrats Wayne !! Every chance I get to fly in an RV I get the grin too.
> Bob
> Fairings-Etc.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Canopy Release Tip-up |
On my 6-A, I gave up on the release mechanism as designed and as described
in the manual. I made the holes in the sub-panel and instrument panel per
plans and when I installed the pull-T-bar, the spring did not allow enough
travel for the bell-crank to pull the release the pins. Cutting the spring
and slotting the sub-panel to allow the bell-crank handle to pass through
did not help. So I cut off the T handle and used that tube to extend the
WD619 crank straight down to the bottom of the sub-panel, passing through a
block of UHMW pop riveted there. I put a spring loaded handle and latching
mechanism at the bottom of the tube,- works great. Jettisoning is another
matter!! I asked Tom Green if they had any history of a successful jettison
in flight? --No--How can it jettison when the hinge pins are pulled with the
hinge-hooks recessed beneath the nose skin?--The metal just gets torn
away---Well, alright, what about the gas-strut?---They will tear away
too-----Oh yeah? I wouldn't like to try it--probably take your head off .
Carry a small fireman's type axe and shatter the
canopy!-------------Cheers!!--------Henry
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Tight Space Dimpling - HELP! |
You can also get small dimple dies - from Avery for example, that you use with an appropriate sized nail and your handy-dandy pop-rivet squeezer. You can see them here: http://www.averytools.com/showoneitem.cfm?primarykey=37&cat=5&kit=0
Todd Wenzel
Delafield, WI USA
RV-8AQB - Finish Kit
N900TW - Reserved
TWenzel@Heartland-Software.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Ralph Capen [mailto:recapen(at)earthlink.net]
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tight Space Dimpling - HELP!
I've just done some of this...
I ended up with a small piece of aluminum that was machine countersunk that I used
as a female dimple-die. That coupled with a my squeezer (no-hole yoke - ground
down to fit inside) and the regular male dimple die produced satisfactory
results. If you need more info / pictures...zap me directly
Ralph Capen
>
> I need some help from someone who's "been
> there, done
> that". I am working on the replacement
> rudder,(RV-9
> style), for my RV7, and Itiringring to dimple
> the top
> tip rib,(R-903), but I can not figure out how
> to get
> to last two holes dimpled on the tapered back
> end.
>
> I was able to get most of the holes dimpled
> using a
> combinationdifferentrsqueezereser yokes and the
> pop
> rivet dimpler set from Avery tools. But the
> last two
> holes are so tight I can not get anything to
> work.
>
> What am I missing?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Jeff Cook
> RV-7A, Rudder
>
>
> This Month --
> Gifts!)
> Click on the Contribution
> year's Terrific Free Gifts!
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> -
> the Contributions of
> ads or any other form
> Forums.
> view the latest messages.
> other List members.
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> http://www.matronics.com/
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Tight Space Dimpling - HELP! |
Don't know if this will help in your situation but I made a simple little
tool from a piece of steel bar about 1 1/4 x 3/16 x 6 in. that worked fine
for these areas on my -6. Drill and countersink a few holes near the edges
at one end. This is the female part of your dimple tool. If you've got
three hands available just tap a male dimple die lightly with a small hammer
while holding this female die in position, otherwise use your rivet gun with
VERY low pressure.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, electrical (still)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
Subject: | Dual Electric Ignition Redundancy |
I have had dual Lightspeed ignitions in or some time now, and go back and
forth on the subject of dual batterys. I finally concluded that a simplier
system would be to provide a way to isolate the entire electrical system
(except the main battery) in case of some massive failure.
I am going to put in a switch that will (in case of a massive failue) allow
me to 'kill' the master relay, and turn off the ignition system, then, flip
an "emergency ignition" toggle switch that will connect the main battery
directly to one ignition system. This will 'remove' the entire electrical
system, and connect the main battery directly to one ignition system. I will
also thereby connect my GPS (which normally runs off the main 12-volt
system) over to the main battery. (Only takes one DPDT toggle switch) I
think if I had such a failure I would need my GPS "nearest airport" feature
right away, and wouldn't want to hunt for the GPS battery pack which is not
usually hooked up.
This only adds the weight of one toggle switch (2oz ?) and the risk of
complete main battery failure is so far a remote happening that I think this
may be superior to adding a diode and another battery.
But ... I am open to suggestions and contrary ideas.
John at Salida, CO RV6A Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV6 Fuselage dimensions |
61 in. from firewall to seat back bulkhead where the fuselage starts to taper
and 113 in. from that point to rear bulkhead. The cabin is 44 in. wide but
if the bottom skin is on there is a 2 in. overhang on each side at the bottom
between the wing spar carry through bulkhead and the seat back bulkhead. The
rear bulkhead is 4 1/2 in. wide.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, electrical (still)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ned Thomas" <315(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV6 Fuselage dimensions |
Harry,
Thank you so much for taking the time to get those dimensions to me.
Your fellow RV enthusiast,
Ned
----- Original Message -----
From: <HCRV6(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6 Fuselage dimensions
>
> 61 in. from firewall to seat back bulkhead where the fuselage starts to
taper
> and 113 in. from that point to rear bulkhead. The cabin is 44 in. wide
but
> if the bottom skin is on there is a 2 in. overhang on each side at the
bottom
> between the wing spar carry through bulkhead and the seat back bulkhead.
The
> rear bulkhead is 4 1/2 in. wide.
>
> Harry Crosby
> Pleasanton, California
> RV-6, electrical (still)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | Re: Dual Electric Ignition Redundancy |
Wow, John, a switch to connect directly to the battery, eh? I don't
suppose you have read Bob Nuckoll's essential book, "The AeroElectric
Connection", have you? :-)
All kidding aside, you are describing a simplified version of 'Lectric
Bob's "Essential Bus" wiring architecture. Here is a link to a PDF file
with schematics to this design scheme and other more elaborate systems:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Rev10/z10.pdf
I have the split bus system on my RV-6, the purpose being precisely what
you are describing. Even though I don't have an electronic ignition, all
the "essentials" necessary to complete the flight can be connected
directly to the battery merely by flipping one switch. This means the
main contactor and everything downstream can go south and all the
goodies will still function.
I highly recommend Bob's book to all builders who are still
contemplating wiring their project; the book contains many innovative
ways to improve the wiring systems beyond what we normally see in spam
cans.
Sam Buchanan
============================
John wrote:
>
>
> I have had dual Lightspeed ignitions in or some time now, and go back and
> forth on the subject of dual batterys. I finally concluded that a simplier
> system would be to provide a way to isolate the entire electrical system
> (except the main battery) in case of some massive failure.
>
> I am going to put in a switch that will (in case of a massive failue) allow
> me to 'kill' the master relay, and turn off the ignition system, then, flip
> an "emergency ignition" toggle switch that will connect the main battery
> directly to one ignition system. This will 'remove' the entire electrical
> system, and connect the main battery directly to one ignition system. I will
> also thereby connect my GPS (which normally runs off the main 12-volt
> system) over to the main battery. (Only takes one DPDT toggle switch) I
> think if I had such a failure I would need my GPS "nearest airport" feature
> right away, and wouldn't want to hunt for the GPS battery pack which is not
> usually hooked up.
>
> This only adds the weight of one toggle switch (2oz ?) and the risk of
> complete main battery failure is so far a remote happening that I think this
> may be superior to adding a diode and another battery.
>
> But ... I am open to suggestions and contrary ideas.
>
> John at Salida, CO RV6A Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "3 rotor" <rv8r300(at)attbi.com> |
Subject: | Re: Canopy Release Tip-up |
I omitted that T-tube piece and used some stiff wire which enables me to
mount it high on the panel out of the way, not requiring a direct, straight
path. It needs to be stiff so you can push on it to engage the pins.
kevin -6a
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Garth Shearing" <garth(at)Islandnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: 12 Ah battery anyone? |
The ampere-hour capacity of a battery is not indicative of its ability to
deliver high current for long periods during cranking. If you cranked
continuously from a fully-charged 12 ampere battery drawing 200 amps as
below, the battery would probably only do this for approximately three
minutes. And if the ambient temperature happens to be lower than 68 degrees
F, the cranking time would even be shorter. Cranking at the freezing point
would probably reduce the cranking time by a third. This is why the Cold
Cranking Amperage (CCA - ability to deliver the needed starting current at 0
degrees F) is important. Also, how long will it do this? Usually three to
nine minutes is needed.
The starter's ability to crank for long periods without overheating is
another thing to consider. I can't remember what vehicle I had at the time
(I think it was a Cessna 150) but it could only be cranked for 30 seconds
before overheating. However, when you think about, if the engine doesn't
start within this length of time, there is something wrong with either the
starting procedure or the engine!.
Unfortunately, a lot of these specifications don't seem to be listed in the
catalogues for aircraft batteries (Aircraft Spruce, for example). The
manufacturer's web sites probably list them.
Many commercial aircraft use nickel-cadmium batteries because they deliver
more starting current, even at very low temperatures. You can also drain
them to zero without damaging them. If you drain an average lead acid type
battery down so that it reads less than ten volts open circuit, it is
essentially toast. Nickel-cadmium batteries are quite a bit more expensive
than lead acid types. Anyone using one?
Anyway, if your 12 AH battery has a CCA rating of 200 amps, and it can do
this for three minutes, it's OK. If you are never going to start the
airplane at 0 degrees F., pick the battery accordingly. The ampere-hour
capacity is used to calculate how long the battery will last while drawing
its normal in-service continuous load after the failure of the alternator.
Garth Shearing
VariEze and 80% RV6A
Victoria BC Canada
> Actually, starting could be a problem with a 12 AH battery.
> The Sky Tec starter draws 200 amps which gives you about 7.5 minutes of
cranking
> with a 25 ampere hour battery. With a 12 AH battery you'll get half that
time or
> about 3.5 minutes which should be fine if the battery is new, the weather
is
> warm and the engine starts easily, but even here in southern California,
those 3
> things seldom happen at the same time.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Chris Fordham" <consult(at)island.net> |
Hi John
On the lightspeed web site there is a very simple wiring diagram that
connects a 4.5 a/h battery to one of your ignition modules in order to make
a completely redundant power supply for the ignition. The diagram includes a
diode in order to keep the small battery charged and a spdt switch in order to
connect aux. battery in case of your main battery failure. This is how I am wiring
in the dual lightspeeds in my RV-4.
Chris F
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rick Galati" <rick07x(at)earthlink.net> |
When the time comes, I plan on having an experienced shop paint my plane.
That said, should I do any prep work on the fiberglass parts prior to this?
If so, what is the best way to approach this? More importantly, is there
anything I should NOT do in order to avoid possible rework by a paint shop that
may have other ideas on prepping?
--- Rick Galati
--- rick07x(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
Subject: | Re: Tight Space Dimpling - HELP! |
You might get some ideas from
http://www.vansairforce.org/projects/mchenryt/tips/
or
http://www.vansairforce.org/articles/tips/tip_rivet_tight_places.shtml
Tedd McHenry
Van's Air Force
Western Canada Wing
tedd(at)vansairforce.org
www.vansairforce.org
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Tight Space Dimpling - HELP! |
My solution -
1. drill skins to end rib per usual and dimple as many rivet hole as
possible
2. remove end rib
3. bend flange at narrow end of rib to something less than 90 degs to allow
access with your usual dimpling tool
4. rebend flanges to 90 degs
5. dimple the skin separately
6. reassemble and rivet
Obviously this must be done with reasonable care to avoid work hardening the
metal or deforming the rib but is a quick and easy way to get that last
dimple in. Does it weaken the rib ? Perhaps but the amount of "stress" at
this location in the finished control surface is very low and there are lots
of other things to worry about instead.
Jim Oke
Winnipeg, MB
RV-6A
----- Original Message -----
From: "JCTV" <jctv(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Tight Space Dimpling - HELP!
>
> I need some help from someone who's "been there, done
> that". I am working on the replacement rudder,(RV-9
> style), for my RV7, and Itiringring to dimple the top
> tip rib,(R-903), but I can not figure out how to get
> to last two holes dimpled on the tapered back end.
>
> I was able to get most of the holes dimpled using a
> combinationdifferentrsqueezereser yokes and the pop
> rivet dimpler set from Avery tools. But the last two
> holes are so tight I can not get anything to work.
>
> What am I missing?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Jeff Cook
> RV-7A, Rudder
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Metric Conversion |
You can find any conversion factors you need here
http://members.aol.com/MonT714/convrsns/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robin Wessel" <Robin.Wessel(at)verizon.net> |
Subject: | HF Powder Coating kit |
Does anyone have any experience with the Harbor Freight Powder Coating
gun kit? I addition to Harbor Freight, a few other suppliers sell
effectively the same gun and powder for about $100. I have a few parts
inside my cabin of my 6A that are getting pretty beat up and would like
a more durable coating. I know that I can go to a local shop to have it
done but I need an excuse to buy a new tool.
Robin Wessel
RV-6A Tigard, OR 252 hrs
http://robin.getbiz.net/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | cowling camlocks skybolt etc |
I have and am going to use Skybolt fasteners for the fuselage to
fiberglass cowling.
Skybolts web site is giving "404" errors. Their phone etiquette was
never that good, and besides...they are closed for the day.
The enclosed literature that came with the bolts, says a support lip
should be 1 1/8".But their pictures and descriptions leave a lot to the
imagination. Do I need to add a 1/2" (approximate) to put it under the
fuselage to firewall lip? In other words, should the support lip be a
total of 1 1/2" to 1 5/8" wide?
And what material did anyone use for it (.032?).
I'd like to order the material tonight.
Barry Pote RV9a
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
Subject: | cowling camlocks skybolt etc |
Barry,
I've done this, and you are right on all counts. The width of the materials
should be the width of the firewall flange (1/2 to 5/8), plus the width of
the material that you need for your hole/receptacle. Where the hole goes in
this material is determined by the distance from the edge of the cowl
(fiberglass extending beyond the hole). I seem to remember using .040 for
this. You have to counter sink for big rivets. Also, it is very hard to
make one piece of AL go around the entire top of the firewall. I did the
top of the firewall in 3 pieces (two small pieces on each side, one long
piece in the middle)
They have a series of pictures on their web site showing installation on an
RV-4.
You are also right about their phone etiquette. They have a great product,
but as a company they suck so bad I can't stand it. I wish we all could use
a different vendor. Check the archives for the word "@#$@@@#$" and you will
find lots of stuff about SkyBolt. Of the dozens (hundreds?) of vendors used
to make my plane, nobody was worse than SkyBolt.
jim
Tampa
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of barry pote
Subject: RV-List: cowling camlocks skybolt etc
I have and am going to use Skybolt fasteners for the fuselage to
fiberglass cowling.
Skybolts web site is giving "404" errors. Their phone etiquette was
never that good, and besides...they are closed for the day.
The enclosed literature that came with the bolts, says a support lip
should be 1 1/8".But their pictures and descriptions leave a lot to the
imagination. Do I need to add a 1/2" (approximate) to put it under the
fuselage to firewall lip? In other words, should the support lip be a
total of 1 1/2" to 1 5/8" wide?
And what material did anyone use for it (.032?).
I'd like to order the material tonight.
Barry Pote RV9a
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Stuff for sale |
From: | Michael D Hilger <rvsixer(at)juno.com> |
> I have the following "leftovers" for sale from my completed
> project:
>
> 1 ea. Van's adjustable voltage regulator - $20
> 2 ea. Wemac air vents, 2470-05, 1.5" dia - $12 ea
> 2 ea. Wemac air vents, B-2150, 1" dia - $12 ea
> 1 ea. Hobbs #15000, rectangular quartz hourmeter - $20
> 2 ea. Isspro fuel gauges, #R8690 (no Van's logo) - $15 ea
> 1 ea. Koger sunshade kit, RV-6 slider - $100
>
> All are new in the box and I will ship. Please contact me
> off-list
> if interested.
>
>
Listers,
All except the fuel gauges and voltage regulator have been sold.
Thanks for all the
replies.
Mike HIlger
RV-6 N207AM
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Oil cooler for sale |
From: | Michael D Hilger <rvsixer(at)juno.com> |
>
> I have a Niagara 7-row oil cooler from Van's for sale.
Listers,
The oil cooler is sold.
Mike HIlger
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
Subject: | Fw: Teak Stick Grip Attachment |
List,
I didn't get a reply on this question and the archives were dry? Anyone
used these grips?
----- Original Message -----
From: Tom & Cathy Ervin
Subject: Teak Stick Grip Attachment
List,
I have a set of Teak Stick Grips that are to be installed in my RV6-A.
Before reinventing the wheel I was wondering how people have attached the grips
to the stick?
Drill and tape using a counter sunk Allen Head? Any neat ideas out there
on a Website I might have missed?
Thanks, Tom in Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
Subject: | Vans Air Filter Assembly |
List,
Fitted the Air Filter Base to the carb (RV-6-A 0-360-A1A) in preparation
to mount the cowling and have a concern.
The instructions call for cutting the base plate to allow the drain bolt at
the rear of the carb to protrude through the plate. No problem with the modification
but I am really concerned about the use of RTV (per the instructions)
to fill the left over void.
Won't the RTV eventually get sucked into the engine? I have used High-Temp
RTV on many automotive applications for gaskets, but not filling voids
that must withstand high air pressure loads??
Anybody used a fiberglass patch on the base plate and mold release on
the carb? I don't have a "Warm Fuzzy" with Vans approach on this one.
Tom in Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)comcast.net> |
Netscape 4.7 will not open www.skybolt.com.
Must use Microsoft explorer.
Barry Pote RV9a
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Chris Woodhouse <chrisw3(at)cox.net> |
RV-list
Subject: | Lighting Instruments |
I was wondering what the thoughts are on alternatives to internally lit
instruments were.
--
Chris Woodhouse
3147 SW 127th St.
Oklahoma City, OK 73170
405-691-5206 (home)
chrisw(at)programmer.net
N35 20.492'
W97 34.342'
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
Subject: | Lighting Instruments |
Try the UMA light bezels. Same cost as posts, and looks absolutely
fantastic. Cheaper than internally lit lights.
jim
Tampa
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Chris Woodhouse
Subject: RV-List: Lighting Instruments
I was wondering what the thoughts are on alternatives to internally lit
instruments were.
--
Chris Woodhouse
3147 SW 127th St.
Oklahoma City, OK 73170
405-691-5206 (home)
chrisw(at)programmer.net
N35 20.492'
W97 34.342'
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
Subject: | Lighting Instruments |
http://www.matronics.com/searching/ws_script.cgi, and search for
backlighting in the RV list. 31 messages there.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 229 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
>
> I was wondering what the thoughts are on alternatives to
> internally lit instruments were.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
Subject: | Vans Air Filter Assembly |
Pro seal it. RTV will quickly disintegrate there.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 229 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
> Won't the RTV eventually get sucked into the
> engine? I have used High-Temp RTV on many automotive
> applications for gaskets, but not filling voids that must
> withstand high air pressure loads??
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
Subject: | Re: Skybolt's site |
barry pote wrote:
>
> Netscape 4.7 will not open www.skybolt.com.
> Must use Microsoft explorer.
>
> Barry Pote RV9a
>
Netscape 7.0 works ok.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Vans Air Filter Assembly |
From: | Michael D Hilger <rvsixer(at)juno.com> |
> Won't the RTV eventually get sucked into the engine?
Tom,
Just carefully file the plate for a very close fit and, after the
plate is mated to the carb,
apply some red hi-temp RTV around the drain boss on the OUTSIDE. If it
comes loose, it
can't get sucked into the carb.
Mike Hilger
RV-6 N207AM 320 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
Subject: | Re: Fw: Teak Stick Grip Attachment |
>
> List,
> I didn't get a reply on this question and the archives were dry?
Anyone used these grips?
> ----- Original Message -----
Not me, so I didn't answer. A friend made my grips out of cherry. I first
tried a fancy set screw inside a threaded insert. It didn't hold up so I
ended up with a plain ole #8 countersunk style screw into threads I cut into
the stick, on the forward side so nobody sees them. With the screws and
countersunk style washers it holds up fine.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Chris Good" <chrisjgood(at)lycos.com> |
Subject: | Re: Fw: Teak Stick Grip Attachment |
Tom & Cathy,
I used some RTV on the grips, so that I could remove them later, if necessary.
I also used a single #6 screw, countersunk into the forward surface of each grip.
I may have used locktite when final fitting the #6 screw into the drilled
& tapped hole in the control stick. I also shortened the control sticks to
allow for the additional height of the teak grips. I'm very happy with the way
it all turned out
Regards,
Chris Good,
West Bend, WI
RV-6A N86CG, 475 hrs.
http://rv.supermatrix.com
--
On Mon, 18 Nov 2002 20:30:19
Tom & Cathy Ervin wrote:
>
>List,
> I didn't get a reply on this question and the archives were dry? Anyone
used these grips?
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Tom & Cathy Ervin
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Teak Stick Grip Attachment
>
>
> List,
> I have a set of Teak Stick Grips that are to be installed in my RV6-A.
Before reinventing the wheel I was wondering how people have attached the
grips to the stick?
> Drill and tape using a counter sunk Allen Head? Any neat ideas out
there on a Website I might have missed?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca> |
Subject: | Lighting Instruments |
I was wondering what the thoughts are on alternatives to internally lit
instruments were.
--
Hi Chris
I have two of Vans Eyeball Lights side by side on the left side of my 6A and
one on the right side. They are mounted on the forward sides at the base of
roll bar (slider canopy). Left & right sides are on different rheostats as I
have Vans internally lighted engine instruments on right side. I recommend
two eyeball lights for good flight instrument coverag.
Night lighting of the instrument panel is good, equivalent or maybe better
than some of the Cessna's and Pipers that I have flown.
George McNutt
Langley, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
Subject: | Re: Lighting Instruments |
UMA bezels rule. They are awesome. You can see them on my website.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Woodhouse" <chrisw3(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV-List: Lighting Instruments
>
> I was wondering what the thoughts are on alternatives to internally lit
> instruments were.
>
> --
> Chris Woodhouse
> 3147 SW 127th St.
> Oklahoma City, OK 73170
> 405-691-5206 (home)
> chrisw(at)programmer.net
> N35 20.492'
> W97 34.342'
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Subject: | Instr. Template? |
What's the consensous on drilling the screw holes for each instrument in
the panel? Invest in an official template or use the holes in each
instrument as a guide?
-
Larry Bowen
RV-8 panel carving...
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "flamini2" <flamini2(at)attbi.com> |
i made a Navy related trip to Fort Worth today and while watching F-16's and F-18's
doing high speed breaks over NFW i happened to spy a yellow RV-6A parked
in the corner of the flight line.
Brought a smile to my face as i thought about an F-18 pilot doing a 450kt upwind
and slowing to 140 kts in a 7G turn on the downwind with the speed brake out
and a tight turn to base and final with a "carrier" landing to be repeated over
and over all the while he is thinking "i can't wait to go flying in my RV"
Anyone know who he is?
Dennis and Fran in Chicago
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
Subject: | Re: Instr. Template? |
Hi Larry,
Being at the panel stage in building your own aircraft you most likely have
developed the skill and a steady enough hand needed to make your own
"official" template.
A 3-1/8" X 1/8" thick disk centered and riveted or machine screwed to a
square plate of the same material, dimensioned such that four holes in the
corners can be match drilled to the instrument /s in question. A drill press
and a flycutter with the cutter set to cut a clean edge inside will mak the
disk.
Drop the disk in the hole orient the square for proper hole alignment and
drill. If have a hole in the center of the template to facilitate a clamp or
two the unit will not slip that little bit that might otherwise ruin your
day.
Made of mild steel it will not last as good as the "official" hardened steel
unit. It should however retain the accuracy you built into it, long enough
to do your first and most likely your third RV. You do plan to build more of
these beauties, don't you?!
Of course you will likely put more time into making this thing than you
expect, but by now that should not bother a seasoned RV builder too much.
You can be a tool and die maker, well, sort of :)
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: RV-List: Instr. Template?
>
> What's the consensous on drilling the screw holes for each instrument in
> the panel? Invest in an official template or use the holes in each
> instrument as a guide?
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> RV-8 panel carving...
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Instr. Template? |
Larry;
I made my own template out of a scrap of .040 or so 4130 (could have been
2024, of course).
Draw an X with the legs at 90 degs, then two concentric circles at 1 5/16"
and 1 3/4". Drill #40 where all the lines cross - nine holes in total. (The
Aircraft Spruce and Spec catalog has a diagram if you need more layout
info.)
Lay out your panel marking where the center of each instrument face will
lie. Drill #30 at these locations. Cleco the template in place at the center
hole, make sure everything is square, then drill the four holes at the small
or large circle as needed.
Then set you fly cutter as reqd and cut the instrument cut-out using the
center hole as a guide.
Do a few test holes in scrap first to make sure your layout is accurate
before you start on your actual panel. :-)
Jim Oke
RV-6A
Winnipeg, MB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: RV-List: Instr. Template?
>
> What's the consensous on drilling the screw holes for each instrument in
> the panel? Invest in an official template or use the holes in each
> instrument as a guide?
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> RV-8 panel carving...
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | [PLEASE READ] - Why Do I Have A Fund Raiser Each Year? |
Dear Listers,
I got to thinking today that perhaps I should explain why I have a Fund
Raiser and also take the opportunity to express why I think the List
Services here provide a far better experience than the commercial
equivalents.
I use the List Fund Raiser each year to offset the costs involved with
running a high performance email list site such as this one. With the
annual support from the List members through the PBS-like Fund Raiser, I
have found I can run the entire site without having to inflect any of the
members with those annoying banner ads flashing up all the time trying to
sell Toner Cartridge Refills or other garbage nobody wants or needs. From
the comments I've received over the years regarding the Lists, the great
majority of the members really appreciate the non-commercialism of my List
systems and don't mind my 'go-team-go' banter once a year to encourage
members to support the Lists.
I believe that the Lists services that I provide here offer a great many
benefits over the commercial equivalents in a number of ways. The first
feature I believe to be particularly significant is that you *cannot*
receive a computer v*rus from any of my Lists directly. I've been on a few
other List servers and have been unfortunate enough to download infected
files people have innocently or not-so-innocently included with their
posts. This just can't happen with my Lists; each incoming message is
filtered and attachments stripped off prior to posting. I provide a Photo
and File Share feature that allows members to share files and bitmaps with
other members and everyone can be assured that these files will be
prescanned for any sort of v*rus before they are posted. Safe and
simple. Also, with this photo and file sharing technique, the Archives
don't get loaded up with a huge amounts of bitmap "data" that slows the
Archive Search times.
Another feature of this system is the extensive List Archives that are
available for download, browsing, and searching. The Archives go all the
way back to the very beginning of each List and with the super fast Search
Engine, the huge size of the Archives is a non-issue in quickly finding the
data you're looking for. Another feature of the Archives, in my opinion,
is that they have been primarily stripped of all the useless email header
data and all the other header garbage that seems to build up in a typical
email thread.
I have received an extremely positive response from Listers regarding the
List Browse feature and the consensus is that the format and ease of use is
outstanding. Members report that having the previous 7 days worth of
messages online for easy browsing and sorting is hugely beneficial. And
again, as with the real time distribution of List email, the messages are
stripped of all the unnecessary email headers and potentially dangerous
v*ruses. I am currently working on the additional ability to post and/or
reply directly from the List Browse interface. More on this upcoming
feature in the next week or so.
I've been running email Lists and services under the matronics.com domain
since about 1989 starting with RV-List and 30 guys who I knew and who where
also building RVs. It has grown into over 40 different aviation-related
Email Lists and an associated web site that receives over 9,000,000 hits
each year!! Additionally, the List email system forwards well over
50,000,000 (yes, that 50 MILLION) email messages to subscribers each
year! With all the dot.bombs these days, I think there's a lot of value in
supporting a service that has gone the long haul and is still providing and
improving a high quality service at a price that's nearly free.
I have to admit running these Lists is a labor of love and I hope it shows
in the quality of the experience that you receive when you get a List Email
Message, Search the Archives, or use the List Browser. The Lists will be
here for a long time to come. If you just want to lurk a while for free,
that's great and I encourage you to do so. If you use, appreciate, and
receive value from these Lists, then please support them during the Annual
List Fund Raiser!
Thank you,
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
------------------------------------------
The SSL Secure Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Lighting Instruments |
Chris,
We installed Van's eyeball LEDs in each side in the roll bar. They do a
great job of flooding the panel with light but you will need a dimmer.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: Chris Woodhouse <chrisw3(at)cox.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: vansairforce , RV-list
>
>Subject: RV-List: Lighting Instruments
>Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 20:30:22 -0600
>
>
>I was wondering what the thoughts are on alternatives to internally lit
>instruments were.
>
>--
>Chris Woodhouse
>3147 SW 127th St.
>Oklahoma City, OK 73170
>405-691-5206 (home)
>chrisw(at)programmer.net
>N35 20.492'
>W97 34.342'
>
>
Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mark Phillips <ripsteel(at)edge.net> |
Subject: | Re: Tight Space Dimpling - HELP! |
Another option is to cut the head off a nail you use for your pop rivet set,
stick it through the dies and skin, then grab the headless end of the nail with
a pair of diagonal cutters- then apply pop rivet tool as usual. There's a fine
line between holding the nail tightly enough and cutting through it, but I did
many of the tight spots this way with good results. Then use the properly
smoothed end of a splitting wedge as a bucking bar and your Avery swivel set to
set the rivet.
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips
> > I need some help from someone who's "been there, done
> > that". I am working on the replacement rudder,(RV-9
> > style), for my RV7, and Itiringring to dimple the top
> > tip rib,(R-903), but I can not figure out how to get
> > to last two holes dimpled on the tapered back end.
> >
> > I was able to get most of the holes dimpled using a
> > combinationdifferentrsqueezereser yokes and the pop
> > rivet dimpler set from Avery tools. But the last two
> > holes are so tight I can not get anything to work.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
Subject: | Re: Metric Conversion |
> Thanks to so many people who provided the number needed on the ALT to join
> the Kilometer High Club, eh?
Why set your sights so low?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Instr. Template? |
Larry,
For $15 Bob Avery will rent you both a punch that will cut both common
size holes and a template to locate the screw holes. That is the way I
cut all my instrument holes. Very convenient!
Regards,
Richard Dudley
-6A FWF
Larry Bowen wrote:
>
>
> What's the consensous on drilling the screw holes for each instrument in
> the panel? Invest in an official template or use the holes in each
> instrument as a guide?
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> RV-8 panel carving...
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)ticnet.com> |
Since Terra avionics equipment is now an orphan, it is good to know that
a reliable repair source is available. Free Flight Systems, 3700 IH35,
Waco, Texas 76706, acquired the spare parts and manuals from Trimble
when the Terra line was discontinued. I have been happy with their
service and turnaround time. Place "ATTN: Repair" on the label. Items
can be sent for repair estimate and you pay shipping charges only.
Phone 800-487-4662.
Will Cretsinger, Arlington, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "GEORGE INMAN" <ghinman(at)attcanada.ca> |
Subject: | Dimple in tight places |
I need some help from someone who's "been there, done
that". I am working on the replacement rudder,(RV-9
style), for my RV7, and Itiringring to dimple the top
tip rib,(R-903), but I can not figure out how to get
to last two holes dimpled on the tapered back end.
I was able to get most of the holes dimpled using a
combinationdifferentrsqueezereser yokes and the pop
rivet dimpler set from Avery tools. But the last two
holes are so tight I can not get anything to work.
What am I missing?
Thanks in advance,
Jeff Cook
RV-7A, Rudder
I modified a small(2") c-clamp to
dimple
in tight places
Cut the nail of your pop rivet
dimple dies,so
that it just passes through the two dies
Drill a shallow hole in the end of
the screw part
of the c-clamp,to accept the nail head.
It may be neccessary to file down
the
arm of the c-clamp for real tight places.
Place the pop dimple dies in the
hole
and use the modified c-clamp to squeeze them.
GEORGE H. INMAN
ghinman(at)attcanada.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
Subject: | Re: Dimple in tight places |
For some places you can modify the dimple die to get into small places by
grinding off an edge. In a couple of other areas (in thin material) I
remember just squeezing in the die by hand without a holder and pushing like
hell. Sometimes you got to just do what you gotta do.
Andy
>
> I need some help from someone who's "been there, done
> that". I am working on the replacement rudder,(RV-9
> style), for my RV7, and Itiringring to dimple the top
> tip rib,(R-903), but I can not figure out how to get
> to last two holes dimpled on the tapered back end.
>
> I was able to get most of the holes dimpled using a
> combinationdifferentrsqueezereser yokes and the pop
> rivet dimpler set from Avery tools. But the last two
> holes are so tight I can not get anything to work.
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Instr. Template? |
Thanks, Jim. I'll try it!
--- Jim Oke wrote:
>
> Larry;
>
> I made my own template out of a scrap of .040 or so 4130 (could have been
> 2024, of course).
>
> Draw an X with the legs at 90 degs, then two concentric circles at 1 5/16"
> and 1 3/4". Drill #40 where all the lines cross - nine holes in total. (The
> Aircraft Spruce and Spec catalog has a diagram if you need more layout
> info.)
>
> Lay out your panel marking where the center of each instrument face will
> lie. Drill #30 at these locations. Cleco the template in place at the center
> hole, make sure everything is square, then drill the four holes at the small
> or large circle as needed.
>
> Then set you fly cutter as reqd and cut the instrument cut-out using the
> center hole as a guide.
>
> Do a few test holes in scrap first to make sure your layout is accurate
> before you start on your actual panel. :-)
>
> Jim Oke
> RV-6A
> Winnipeg, MB
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Larry Bowen" <larry(at)bowenaero.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Instr. Template?
>
>
> >
> > What's the consensous on drilling the screw holes for each instrument in
> > the panel? Invest in an official template or use the holes in each
> > instrument as a guide?
> >
> > -
> > Larry Bowen
> > RV-8 panel carving...
> > Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> > http://BowenAero.com
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JCTV <jctv(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Tight Space Dimpling - THANKS! |
Thanks to everyone who had great advice for me. I
ended up filing down an old C-clamp and countersinking
the tip with my right angle drill. I then used the
standard male dimple on the other side and tighten it
down with the clamp.
The one line I keep telling myself over and over is
"Skill does not build planes, Perseverance does!".
Thanks again and on to the next challenge...
Jeff Cook
RV-7A - Rudder
--- JCTV wrote:
>
> I need some help from someone who's "been there,
> done
> that". I am working on the replacement rudder,(RV-9
> style), and I'm trying to dimple the
> top
> tip rib,(R-903), but I can not figure out how to get
> to last two holes dimpled on the tapered back end.
>
> I was able to get most of the holes dimpled using a
combination different squeezers yokes and the pop
> rivet dimpler set from Avery tools. But the last two
> holes are so tight I can not get anything to work.
>
> What am I missing?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Jeff Cook
> RV-7A, Rudder
>
>
>
> Month --
> Gifts!)
> Click on the Contribution
> Terrific Free Gifts!
> Dralle, List Admin.
> _->
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>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
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>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bartrim, Todd" <sbartrim(at)mail.canfor.ca> |
Subject: | cowling camlocks skybolt etc |
> You are also right about their phone etiquette. They have a great
> product,
> but as a company they suck so bad I can't stand it. I wish we all could
> use
> a different vendor. Check the archives for the word "@#$@@@#$" and you
> will
> find lots of stuff about SkyBolt. Of the dozens (hundreds?) of vendors
> used
> to make my plane, nobody was worse than SkyBolt.
>
> jim
> Tampa
>
Hi Jim;
Thanks for the heads up on this company. I was going to order a set
for the upper cowl to fuse, but I already have the hinge installed and it's
really not that bad to install the pins. If a better vendor comes up, I will
change to a camloc, but I refuse to do business with companies that have bad
CS.
I appreciate reports on this list of vendor CS -- good & bad.
S. Todd Bartrim
Turbo 13B rotary powered
RX-9endurance (FWF)
C-FSTB (reserved)
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
RE: RV-List: cowling camlocks skybolt etc
You are also right about their phone etiquette. They have a great product,
but as a company they suck so bad I can't stand it. I wish we all could use
a different vendor. Check the archives for the word @#$@@@#$ and you will
find lots of stuff about SkyBolt. Of the dozens (hundreds?) of vendors used
to make my plane, nobody was worse than SkyBolt.
jim
Tampa
Hi Jim;
Thanks for the heads up on this company. I was going to order a set for the upper
cowl to fuse, but I already have the hinge installed and it's really not that
bad to install the pins. If a better vendor comes up, I will change to a camloc,
but I refuse to do business with companies that have bad CS.
I appreciate reports on this list of vendor CS -- good bad.
S. Todd Bartrim
Turbo 13B rotary powered
RX-9endurance (FWF)
C-FSTB (reserved)
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
Subject: | cowling camlocks skybolt etc |
ACS sells the real McCoy "Camlock". Their price is lower than buying
directly from Skybolt. Skybolt sells their own version of the "Camlock",
they do NO sell Camlocks.
The top of my cowl is held on with Skybolt's products, but when I needed new
washers for them, I bought them from ACS. Long story made short, Skybolt
would only sell me a bag of 20, and they used FedEx to send them to me ("we
don't use the US Mail for anything". Total cost for 2 washers that I
needed: $28. I called ACS, they sent me 2 washers (4 cents each) for free,
and put it in an envelope with a stamp. Free.
Camlocks are cool... but Skybolt is not the only place to get them (or a
look-alike).
jim
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bartrim, Todd
Subject: RE: RV-List: cowling camlocks skybolt etc
> You are also right about their phone etiquette. They have a great
> product,
> but as a company they suck so bad I can't stand it. I wish we all could
> use
> a different vendor. Check the archives for the word "@#$@@@#$" and you
> will
> find lots of stuff about SkyBolt. Of the dozens (hundreds?) of vendors
> used
> to make my plane, nobody was worse than SkyBolt.
>
> jim
> Tampa
>
Hi Jim;
Thanks for the heads up on this company. I was going to order a set
for the upper cowl to fuse, but I already have the hinge installed and it's
really not that bad to install the pins. If a better vendor comes up, I will
change to a camloc, but I refuse to do business with companies that have bad
CS.
I appreciate reports on this list of vendor CS -- good & bad.
S. Todd Bartrim
Turbo 13B rotary powered
RX-9endurance (FWF)
C-FSTB (reserved)
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
RE: RV-List: cowling camlocks skybolt etc
You are also right about their phone etiquette. They have a great product,
but as a company they suck so bad I can't stand it. I wish we all could use
a different vendor. Check the archives for the word @#$@@@#$ and you will
find lots of stuff about SkyBolt. Of the dozens (hundreds?) of vendors used
to make my plane, nobody was worse than SkyBolt.
jim
Tampa
Hi Jim;
Thanks for the heads up on this company. I was going to order a set for the
upper cowl to fuse, but I already have the hinge installed and it's really
not that bad to install the pins. If a better vendor comes up, I will change
to a camloc, but I refuse to do business with companies that have bad CS.
I appreciate reports on this list of vendor CS -- good bad.
S. Todd Bartrim
Turbo 13B rotary powered
RX-9endurance (FWF)
C-FSTB (reserved)
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | RE: cowling camlocks skybolt etc |
From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
I have a question for you guys out there that have installed the adjustable Skybolt
camlocs and have been flying with them for a while. I'm struggling with
the notion of buying the expensive adjustable camloc kit when you could measure
the thickness of your cowling with a digital caliper and order the non-adjustable
stainless camloc receptacles much cheaper through another source. I wouldn't
think there would be much need to adjust them after they've been in service
a while, but I could be wrong.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying
F1 QB under const.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
I am visiting Oklahoma City this week and would love to visit with any
builder's in the area during the evening hours.
Mike Robertson
Das Fed
RV-8A, 6A, 9A builder
STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE*
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: RE: cowling camlocks skybolt etc |
Bob,
I have not found the need to re-adjust them at all. When you set them up
originally you want to set them tight enough to be able to just rotate the
stud over the cam against the spring pressure. So there is some room for
loosening up. To your point, you could do the same thing with shims that
the adjustable feature provides on the Skybolts.
They are nice, machined out of solid aluminum, but are they worth the
price/aggravation? Dunno. So far I like them though.
Pat Hatch
RV-4, N17PH, 700 hrs
O-320, Hartzell C/S
RV-6, N44PH, 40 hrs
O-360, Hartzell C/S
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com>
Subject: RV-List: RE: cowling camlocks skybolt etc
>
> I have a question for you guys out there that have installed the
adjustable Skybolt camlocs and have been flying with them for a while. I'm
struggling with the notion of buying the expensive adjustable camloc kit
when you could measure the thickness of your cowling with a digital caliper
and order the non-adjustable stainless camloc receptacles much cheaper
through another source. I wouldn't think there would be much need to adjust
them after they've been in service a while, but I could be wrong.
>
> Bob Japundza
> RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying
> F1 QB under const.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RGray67968(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: RE: cowling camlocks skybolt etc |
In a message dated 11/19/02 11:21:04 AM Pacific Standard Time,
Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com writes:
Bob,
I went with the Camlocks from Spruce and am VERY happy with them. I used #6's
across the top of the cowl on my 6. This took into account an .060 strip that
my receptacles go into. You can order standard or flush.YMMV
Here's a picture where you can see a few of them.
N856RG
BTW, make sure you put them farther down on the sides than the hinges were.
This will keep the sides nice and tight.
Rick Gray RV6 (Ohio) at the Buffalo Farm - Camlocks looking good after 110
hours
> I have a question for you guys out there that have installed the adjustable
> Skybolt camlocs and have been flying with them for a while. I'm struggling
> with the notion of buying the expensive adjustable camloc kit when you
> could measure the thickness of your cowling with a digital caliper and
> order the non-adjustable stainless camloc receptacles much cheaper through
> another source. I wouldn't think there would be much need to adjust them
> after they've been in service a while, but I could be wrong.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Al Karpinski" <karpinski(at)baldcom.net> |
Subject: | Delivery Problems with Falcon Electric Gyro's |
Hi all..
Ordered Non-TSO electric DG and AG back on 9-17-02... With a 3-4 week
delivery..
Still nothing...
Anyone else see delivery problems with Falcon Electric gyro's??
Options.. ??
No archive
_________________________
Al Karpinski RV8 50%
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
Subject: | Canopy Release Tip-up |
Steve.....check the archives. We just discussed this a few weeks ago, and I posted
pictures of how I modified the canopy release mechanism.
The mod revoved the release arm from the panel, and put it underneath where wandering
passenger fingers won't find it. Very simple to do. You could still release
it in flight, but the consensus is you likely don't want to. Van's people
tell me it is unlikely it would come off, and if it did, it would take your
face with it..
You do want to be able to remove it on the ground, though, for even better access
behind the panel, repairs, repainting, etc.
If you can't find the pictures and discussion in the archives, let me know, and
I'll help you.
Gary
From: sjhdcl(at)kingston.net
Subject: RV-List: Canopy Release Tip-up
Ref Tip up canopy RV7A
After spending the better part of the day (cutting steel is fun!) making the
canopy release I started to wonder if anybody omitted this part.
It seems to work fine, and its pretty robust, but is it required? Has anybody
just used AN4-x bolts with cotter pins to hold the tip up on? I do like the
idea of being able to eject the canopy, but I just had a thought. I did have to
modify the F-643-1 support rib as well as trim a bit of the F687 (part #?) to
get the proper fit.
Of course if the part was omitted one would have some kind of canopy shattering
tool close by.
Any comments? Anybody actually used it? How well does it work?
Steve Hurlbut
RV7A
---
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
Subject: | Re: Fw: Teak Stick Grip Attachment |
>> List, I didn't get a reply on this question and the archives were dry?
>> Anyone used these grips? ----- Original Message ----- From: Tom & Cathy
>> Ervin To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Teak Stick Grip Attachment
>>
>>
>> List, I have a set of Teak Stick Grips that are to be installed in my
>> RV6-A. Before reinventing the wheel I was wondering how people have
>> attached the grips to the stick? Drill and tape using a counter sunk Allen
>> Head? Any neat ideas out there on a Website I might have missed?
>>
Are you familiar with T-nuts? They are used for machine screws in wood. Sloppy
description follows:
Internally threaded barrel attached to a washer. The washer has 'spikes' around
the edge that are parallel to the threaded barrel. The barrel is inserted into
a
predrilled hole in the wood & the spikes are pushed into the solid wood around
the hole.
If you insert the T-nut from inside the stick, you could use an allen head set
screw with little risk of sripping the wood.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | rv8driver <rv8tor(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: pneumatic rivet squeezers |
I picked up one on eBay (a CP model) for $275. I had to be patient because they
usually get bid up to 350 or 400 sometimes. But I just happened to be the only
one to bid on this one and got it "cheap". Got it from a guy that sells aircraft
tools a lot on eBay. I've bought from him before. Very reputable. I
believe his eBay ID is acfttools.
Cheers,
Kevin
>-->RV-List message posted by: "MARSHALL,STEPHANIE (HP-Corvallis,ex1)"
>
>Hi all,
>What is the general consensus of pneumatic rivet squeezers?
>
>Thanks
>Stephanie
>in Or'gun
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com> |
For those of you who are *still* building an RV-6A (like me) or the
morbidly curious , I have the latest photos up now. This is a
first for me - website updated before the promised date. Basically it's
the beginning of the fuselage construction - jig, firewall, F604 and
F605 plus jigging the first couple of bulkheads. Website is
http:\www.flion.com for those who haven't bookmarked it. By the way,
Matt, your link to my site is incorrect.
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A slooooow build :-) - Working on forward structure
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com> |
Sorry, the url is www.flion.com <http://www.flion.com/> ; I mistyped the
http:// in front of it because I hardly ever use that anymore, anyway.
For those of you still using low screen resolutions, you might not see
the link to the right because the frame collapses in some browsers. If
so, try www.flion.com/rv6a/Default.htm to get right to the page.
Patrick Kelley
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KAKlewin(at)aol.com |
Mike,
Love to chat with ya if our schedules permit....
Kurt Klewin, RV6A, Finishing...
OKC, OK 405-670-6240
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Fw: Thanksgiving Weekend |
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Petty
Subject: Thanksgiving Weekend
Hello Kolbers,
We plan to be in the Jacksonville FL. area over the Thanksgiving holidays and are
looking to find some activity in the area. We will not have our aircraft, but
will have ground transportation. We will be staying at Hanna RV resort park.
Would love to hook up with any Kolb flyers/builders as well as any Vans RV builders/flyers.
Thanks
Paul & Charley
Cessna 4958p
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Composites - Glasair Finishing Time |
Wow, I'm astounded he only took 80 hours to do all that. It's taken me 200+
hours to wash, alodine, prime and topcoat my RV. So far. I'm STILL filling
and sanding wingtips and fairings. And I won't be taking home any awards.
Curt
RV-6 soon to be moving to the assembly hangar.
> The total cost was about $2,000 in
> > materials and about 80 hours of work. Then I took home a trophy from
> Oshkosh.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | N223RV First Flight! |
This is kinda old news now, but I flew my RV-4 for the first time October
30th from Willow Run Airport in Michigan. Plane came in at 1030 lbs
unpainted, but is full IFR, including vacuum system. The plane flew
excellent with no major issues and minimal trimming necessary. I only have
6.5 hours to date (crappy Michigan weather!) It took 3 years and 8 months
(including a move from Atlanta to Michigan and getting married with a
honeymoon at Sun-N-Fun this year!) and just over 1700 hours. I still have a
bit of fiberglass work to do, and then paint.
Specs:
-0320-E2D modified to 160 hp
-Sensenich fixed pitch prop
-climbs out at 100 mph and 2000 fpm sustained
-KX155 radio with VOR and G/S
-Standard T panel with all 6 gauges
-UMA 1.25" engine gages (nice and small for my tiny panel)
-center stack built over battery compartment to hold the radio, panel mounted
Garmin 295, transponder (KT-76A) and Van's fuel gauges.
A special thanks to all at Van's, everyone on the list who helped me (both
directly and indirectly), and to Russ Werner who provided me with all kinds
of incite and was always there to bounce ideas off of!
I know y'all have heard it over and over, but keep workin' on that plane, it
is worth every second of the time spent!
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Cold Weather Fiberglassing |
I have some fiberglass work to finish up on my plane, but the weather is
getting pretty cold up here in Michigan.
Does anyone know how low of a temperature I should (or should not) fiberglass
at? What are the ramifications of fiberglassing at cold temperatures? I did
some glass work tonight and put a small heater on a timer pointing at the
fiberglass and resin, but was wondering what others have done or what people
know about glassing at cold temperatures.
Thanks for any help you can provide!
-Mike Kraus
N223RV - finally flying!!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
Subject: | Re: Cold Weather Fiberglassing |
Well, the coldest it probably got here was around 30 at night, so that's all
I have to base it off of. I have the West Systems slow cure epoxy. It
would take all night to cure. Perhaps if you got the fast cure stuff, the
colder temperatures would make it a slower cure, and you would have time to
work with it. Be careful with heat. Too much heat in the wrong areas could
cause the fiberglass to cure unevenly when it sets in other areas. Make
sure if you are doing heating that it is general area heating rather than a
focused heat. But, to answer your question, I would think you could glass
in any temperature, you just have to wait longer until it cures enough to
cut and sand.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <N8292W(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Cold Weather Fiberglassing
>
> I have some fiberglass work to finish up on my plane, but the weather is
> getting pretty cold up here in Michigan.
>
> Does anyone know how low of a temperature I should (or should not)
fiberglass
> at? What are the ramifications of fiberglassing at cold temperatures? I
did
> some glass work tonight and put a small heater on a timer pointing at the
> fiberglass and resin, but was wondering what others have done or what
people
> know about glassing at cold temperatures.
>
> Thanks for any help you can provide!
> -Mike Kraus
> N223RV - finally flying!!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Karen and Robert Brown" <bkbrown(at)wmca.net> |
Subject: | Flap Actuator Weldments |
A batch of flap actuator weldments was shipped by Van's that had the powder coat
free area (where the bushing block goes) on the wrong side of the center arm.
I talked to Van's today and they said either put the block support on the right
side of the vertical post, or, just put the block where the plans call out
(on the left side of the vertical post) (which means the powder coat is lying
on the bushing block) and paint over the spot where they masked off the powder
coat...
I was hoping for a new one, but they are not offering...
Make sure you look closely at the plans to see how the angles of the arms at each
end of the weldment lie relative to the center arm, because you can't rely
on the position of the masked off portion to show you how to install the weldment...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jerry" <jdoyal(at)sport.rr.com> |
test
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jerry" <jdoyal(at)sport.rr.com> |
Subject: | Builders in Waco Texas |
I have built a 6A in the past and now building an 8A. Are there any builders in
the Greater Waco Metroplex? I am from Shreveport and will be in Waco Thursday
Nov 21 thru saturday or sunday and would like to visit some projects or flying
planes. E-Mail me or call me please! My cell # is 318-208-3111
Thanks in advance!
Jerry Doyal
jdoyal(at)sport.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
Subject: | Re: Flap Actuator Weldments |
> A batch of flap actuator weldments was shipped by Van's that
> had the powder coat free area (where the bushing block goes)
> on the wrong side of the center arm.
Well in MY day we had to paint our OWN damn weldments...! Okay, yeah, I know
that's not very helpful.... :-) Seriously though I'd recommend you either
add a thin washer between the bearing blocks, or sand the powder coat off in
that area, since otherwise the paint thickness will make it too tight and
stiff. How do I know? I painted mine and didn't mask where the bearing block
goes either (I fixed it with the thin washer method).
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~450 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
Subject: | Re: Terra Repair |
(Delete now if you don't have/don't care about Terra Radios)
> Since Terra avionics equipment is now an orphan, it is good to know that
> know that a reliable repair source is available.
[snip]
This reminds me of something that happened with my Terra NAV. I'd had it for
a while problem-free, but then it started doing this annoying thing -- it
would occasionally just up and blow its fuse. I was about ready to ship it
to Free Flight but decided to take the cover off and have a look first. I
noticed a piece of yellow electrical tape on the side housing right next to
where a voltage regulator (a little black part about 5/8" square with a
metal tab sticking up from it) was mounted close to the side housing. The
only reason for the tape seemed to be to insulate the regulator from
shorting on the housing. However there was no such tape on the top piece,
just the side, and the regulator was shorting on the top of the housing. Put
some electrical tape there and the problem went away. Maybe if anyone else
ever has a similar problem this will help save some $$ and hassle.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~450 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Flap Actuator Weldments |
> > A batch of flap actuator weldments was shipped by Van's that
> > had the powder coat free area (where the bushing block goes)
> > on the wrong side of the center arm.
>
The RV-9A I'm working on had the same problem. I'm just wondering how long
this has been going one and if it's been corrected. These things can be
slow about being corrected at Van's. Been there and done that sort of
thing.
> Well in MY day we had to paint our OWN damn weldments...! Okay, yeah, I >
know that's not very helpful.... :-)
Actually, I've found places on the -9A that I'd just as soon that they
hadn't powder coated the parts. It looks nice; but, it can chip very
easily.
>Seriously though I'd recommend you either
> add a thin washer between the bearing blocks, or sand the powder coat off
in
> that area, since otherwise the paint thickness will make it too tight and
> stiff. How do I know? I painted mine and didn't mask where the bearing
block
> goes either (I fixed it with the thin washer method).
>
One almost has to have some kind of spacer, be it a washer or manufactured
one, so that there is enough space after cutting them that you can tighten
down without grabbing the tubing too hard. It's a bushing, not a clamp. I
had to put spacers in mine when there was no paint in those areas. Yeah, no
powder coating, either. :-) The cut I made took some of the UHMW material
away; so, a spacer was needed. You need the same thing at the rudder
pedals. On the -9A, I didn't take the powder coating off of the tubing at
either location. I felt the stuff would be there for years to come.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
EAA Tech Counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Lucky Macy" <luckymacy(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | RE: RV-List Digest: 42 Msgs - 11/19/02 |
Can someone please put me out of my misery and post a picture of a modified
squeezer yoke or some other method that works for riveting on the hinge to
the elevator trim tab?
I modified a pair of pliers to try and squeeze some of the rivets that I
couldn't get to with my TATCO hand squeezer with no luck (i'd need to be
Popeye to do an adequate job).
This is not a place where I can see using something like use an ax blade or
tapered bucking bar.
Thanks in advance!
Lucky
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: Cold Weather Fiberglassing |
Mike,
The West 105 epoxy and 205 hardner has a temperature range of 40 degrees to
90 degrees. If temperature is getting below that, use a heat source to
help. I used a halogen 300 watt light and it helped.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
RV6 N296JC
----- Original Message -----
From: <N8292W(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Cold Weather Fiberglassing
>
> I have some fiberglass work to finish up on my plane, but the weather is
> getting pretty cold up here in Michigan.
>
> Does anyone know how low of a temperature I should (or should not)
fiberglass
> at? What are the ramifications of fiberglassing at cold temperatures? I
did
> some glass work tonight and put a small heater on a timer pointing at the
> fiberglass and resin, but was wondering what others have done or what
people
> know about glassing at cold temperatures.
>
> Thanks for any help you can provide!
> -Mike Kraus
> N223RV - finally flying!!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Francis Malczynski" <ebbfmm(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | N223RV First Flight! |
Congratulations, looks like you crammed a lot into 3 years and 8 months,
having flown mine for the first time recently, I know how you feel.
Congratulations again.
Fran Malczynski
RV6 - N594EF (13.3 hrs in crappy upstate NY weather since 10/20/02)
Olcott, NY
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of N8292W(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: N223RV First Flight!
This is kinda old news now, but I flew my RV-4 for the first time October
30th from Willow Run Airport in Michigan. Plane came in at 1030 lbs
unpainted, but is full IFR, including vacuum system. The plane flew
excellent with no major issues and minimal trimming necessary. I only have
6.5 hours to date (crappy Michigan weather!) It took 3 years and 8 months
(including a move from Atlanta to Michigan and getting married with a
honeymoon at Sun-N-Fun this year!) and just over 1700 hours. I still have a
bit of fiberglass work to do, and then paint.
Specs:
-0320-E2D modified to 160 hp
-Sensenich fixed pitch prop
-climbs out at 100 mph and 2000 fpm sustained
-KX155 radio with VOR and G/S
-Standard T panel with all 6 gauges
-UMA 1.25" engine gages (nice and small for my tiny panel)
-center stack built over battery compartment to hold the radio, panel
mounted
Garmin 295, transponder (KT-76A) and Van's fuel gauges.
A special thanks to all at Van's, everyone on the list who helped me (both
directly and indirectly), and to Russ Werner who provided me with all kinds
of incite and was always there to bounce ideas off of!
I know y'all have heard it over and over, but keep workin' on that plane, it
is worth every second of the time spent!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Michael Stewart <mstewartga(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Team RV is hosting a weekend formation seminar |
Hi listers,Team RV is hosting its 1st Annual Formation Seminar January 25-26 2003 in Lawrenceville, GA. It will be a weekend of training, flying, check-rides, and all around fun. The seminars will be for ALL skill levels, from beginner to advanced. The seminar is free, parking is free, and the fun is priceless. We hope you will come join us.Details can be found here:http://www.mstewart.net/michael/rv/teamrv/formationclinic/index.htmhope to see you there,Mike StewartRV-6A troubleshooting electronic ignition, almost got it. I hope!
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
Subject: | Re: N223RV First Flight! |
Congratulations Mike!!!!
Richard Dudley
-6A FWF
N8292W(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> This is kinda old news now, but I flew my RV-4 for the first time October
> 30th from Willow Run Airport in Michigan. Plane came in at 1030 lbs
> unpainted, but is full IFR, including vacuum system. The plane flew
> excellent with no major issues and minimal trimming necessary. I only have
> 6.5 hours to date (crappy Michigan weather!) It took 3 years and 8 months
> (including a move from Atlanta to Michigan and getting married with a
> honeymoon at Sun-N-Fun this year!) and just over 1700 hours. I still have a
> bit of fiberglass work to do, and then paint.
> Specs:
> -0320-E2D modified to 160 hp
> -Sensenich fixed pitch prop
> -climbs out at 100 mph and 2000 fpm sustained
> -KX155 radio with VOR and G/S
> -Standard T panel with all 6 gauges
> -UMA 1.25" engine gages (nice and small for my tiny panel)
> -center stack built over battery compartment to hold the radio, panel mounted
> Garmin 295, transponder (KT-76A) and Van's fuel gauges.
>
> A special thanks to all at Van's, everyone on the list who helped me (both
> directly and indirectly), and to Russ Werner who provided me with all kinds
> of incite and was always there to bounce ideas off of!
>
> I know y'all have heard it over and over, but keep workin' on that plane, it
> is worth every second of the time spent!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com> |
Subject: | RE: RV-List Digest: 42 Msgs - 11/19/02 |
As I recall, the key to riveting the trim tab hinge is to separate the
hinge halves. Once you pull the pin, there should be no problem
reaching all the rivets. My Avery die set came with two flush sets,
1/4" thick and 1/8" thick. With the 1/4" set on the stationary side of
the yoke I could clear the hinge eyes with no problem; the other set was
in the ram side and clearance on the outside of the tab was no issue.
My fear was that the hinge would slightly misalign while riveting, which
proved to be unfounded. I'm not sure what model you're building, but I
checked the plans for the 7/7A and the arrangement is the same so I
expect it would be true of all the models; hope this helps you.
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - working on forward fuselage structure
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lucky Macy
Subject: RV-List: RE: RV-List Digest: 42 Msgs - 11/19/02
Can someone please put me out of my misery and post a picture of a
modified
squeezer yoke or some other method that works for riveting on the hinge
to
the elevator trim tab?
I modified a pair of pliers to try and squeeze some of the rivets that I
couldn't get to with my TATCO hand squeezer with no luck (i'd need to be
Popeye to do an adequate job).
This is not a place where I can see using something like use an ax blade
or
tapered bucking bar.
Thanks in advance!
Lucky
=
Contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dane Sheahen" <dane(at)mutualace.com> |
Subject: | Comfortable parachutes? |
Hi Tim
I just tried two different parachutes for comfort from Strong Parachute Co.
Both were uncomfortable for me. They were about as soft as a rock. I have
an RV8a with the tall man option for the seat back and it put my knees right
under the panel. Try them your self they will send you a parachute for ten
days to see if you like it. If you do, then they will make you a custom
color one.
I am going to try Softie Parachute next. My feeling is what good is it if
you don't use it.
Dane Sheahen
RV8a Flying, No Paint
Hi Folks,
Does anyone have an opinion (On THIS list? Ha!) on what types of parachutes
are most comfortable for full-time use? I would like to set my airplane up
for full-time (including long cross-country) parachute use, and would like
to get some recommendations on seatpack vs. backpack vs. whatever else there
is. I have checked the archives - no luck on this topic.
Thanks,
Tim Bronson
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Michael D. Crowe" <tripacer(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | RE: [rv8list] riveting around hinges |
Lucky,
I have always used a Tatco hand squeezer for that job. Different heads have
thinner ends where the dies go in. Check with builders in your area to see
if one has a thinner head you can borrow. If you are in the Atlanta area I
could help you out.
Mike Crowe
RV8A
Tail Done
To: rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com
Cc: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: [rv8list] riveting around hinges
Can someone please put me out of my misery and post a picture of a
modified
squeezer yoke or some other method that works for riveting on the hinge to
the elevator trim tab?
I modified a pair of pliers to try and squeeze some of the rivets that I
couldn't get to with my TATCO hand squeezer with no luck (i'd need to be
Popeye to do an adequate job).
This is not a place where I can see using something like use an ax blade
or
tapered bucking bar.
Thanks in advance!
Lucky
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Comfortable parachutes? |
Dane,
Please DO let us, or at least me, know how the Softie works for you. I am building
an -8A also and would be very interested in your obsevations. I do not have
the tall pilot option, but I am 6'1" and find my knees come real close to the
bottom of the panel. What are you using for seats with the chutes? Do you remove
both the bottom and backs of the seats or what?
Thanks!
Todd Wenzel
Delafield, WI USA
RV-8AQB - Finish Kit
N900TW - Reserved
TWenzel@Heartland-Software.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Dane Sheahen [mailto:dane(at)mutualace.com]
Subject: RE: RV-List: Comfortable parachutes?
Hi Tim
I just tried two different parachutes for comfort from Strong Parachute Co. Both
were uncomfortable for me. They were about as soft as a rock. I have an RV8a
with the tall man option for the seat back and it put my knees right
under the panel. Try them your self they will send you a parachute for ten
days to see if you like it. If you do, then they will make you a custom color
one.
I am going to try Softie Parachute next. My feeling is what good is it if you
don't use it.
Dane Sheahen
RV8a Flying, No Paint
Hi Folks,
Does anyone have an opinion (On THIS list? Ha!) on what types of parachutes are
most comfortable for full-time use? I would like to set my airplane up for
full-time (including long cross-country) parachute use, and would like to get
some recommendations on seatpack vs. backpack vs. whatever else there is. I have
checked the archives - no luck on this topic.
Thanks,
Tim Bronson
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
Subject: | Flap Actuator weldments |
There is really no need to do this. A bunch of the RV-9 flap arms came with the
bare spot on the "wrong" side. It is no problem at all to just install the
bearing block on the side that is masked off. Fits fine.
Gary
]
____________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Flap Actuator Weldments
> A batch of flap actuator weldments was shipped by Van's that
> had the powder coat free area (where the bushing block goes)
> on the wrong side of the center arm.
Well in MY day we had to paint our OWN damn weldments...! Okay, yeah, I know
that's not very helpful.... :-) Seriously though I'd recommend you either
add a thin washer between the bearing blocks, or sand the powder coat off in
that area, since otherwise the paint thickness will make it too tight and
stiff. How do I know? I painted mine and didn't mask where the bearing block
goes either (I fixed it with the thin washer method).
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~450 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
---
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | FW: RV6a For Sale |
From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
"RV-List Digest (E-mail)" ,
"EAA 21 (E-mail)" ,
"Ric Merriwether (E-mail)"
Subject: RV6a For Sale
All - A friend and RV pilot called me last night with sad news that he is
selling his RV6a. He is asking $45,000 for it, which is a steal!!!!! I've
flown this plane, and it flies great. Some of the vital statistics:
RV-6a with slider canopy; approx 200 hours; licensed '96
Lycoming O-320B3B (160hp), 900 SMOH, chrome cylinders
all cylinders checked in mid/upper 70's at last annual.
Sensenich metal prop
Phlogiston spar
Navaid autopilot
Apollo Flybuddy GPS
Terra Nav-com with glideslope
Xponder with encoder
Intercom
Audio panel with 3 lite marker beacon
Vacuum horizon and DG
Manual elevator and aileron trim
New main tires; nose tire recent
March '02 annual; will supply fresh annual with sale
Please call Leonard at 479-649-0761 (Fort Smith, Arkansas)
he does not have e-mail.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Comfortable parachutes? |
From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>Hi Tim
> I just tried two different parachutes for comfort from Strong Parachute Co.
>Both were uncomfortable for me. They were about as soft as a rock. I have
>an RV8a with the tall man option for the seat back and it put my knees right
>under the panel. Try them your self they will send you a parachute for ten
>days to see if you like it. If you do, then they will make you a custom
>color one.
>
>I am going to try Softie Parachute next. My feeling is what good is it if
>you don't use it.
>
I have a back pack Softie with foam that I use primarily for soaring. I
have used it for up to 6.5 hours straight and don't even notice I have it
on. It has a sort of cut-out area for the spine. I have used it in my
RV-6 and it is fine, but puts me a little further forward than I like,
for that airplane.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Subject: | To cerminil or not to cerminil |
that is the question.
actually I have answered it but I thought I'd post my thoughts on the
subject.
When I built up this engine, 0-360 I had a set of chrome cylinders that I
didn't know the age of but they were just in service limits so I figured I
could get another 500 hours out of them. Well this has worked for 1 and 3 as
I now have 300 hours on them, and the pisser is they are still at 79.5/80,
but 2 and 4 are going south. I'm getting 50/80 on 2 and 62/80 on 4 at TDC.
Its interesting to plot because if I move the piston about 3/4" down they
both are in the mid 60s to 70s but as it moves up the ring gap opens due to
taper and phooosh. It seems to make sense to just do all 4 now rather then
waiting another 200 hours for the right side.
I have also noticed for sometime that when pulling to blades through each
cylinder during preflight those two are definately weaker. Although I always
do a full power runup on the end of the runway to assure full static RPM and
that hasn't decreased, so they are still dynamically sealing.
So, after reading everything Superior and ECI has to say about it I decided
to go with ECI Steels. I picked ECI because they cost a lot less and they
seemed to be doing just as much excellant research and development as the
other guys. The question was cerminil or not. I found several "experts" that
felt the break in issues along with the reduced ability to hold oil on the
walls weren't worth it unless the engine wasn't being flown much. Then the
extra corrosion protection was definately needed. The other issue is
reworking the cerminils is much more difficult during the next overhaul.
Well, I flew 250 hours last year so I went plain steel.
The other question was to go 8.5:1, 9:1, or 10:1. It would cost more as the
standard pistons are in the kit. The 9:1 0-320h2ad pistons are $42 each and
the 10:1 helicopter pistons were a little more. I did not want the 10:1 as
there will come a time when fuel and detonation is an issue, the only
question is when. The other ones would give a slight increase in power, one
that I might be able to notice, but would cost another $170. Seemed like a
wash to me considering the engine manufacturer has gone to great lengths to
make this a wonderful engine. Why pay money to change it now for something I
might not even be able to notice???
I got a good price for the complete kits, with gaskets, less wrist pins and
rockers/pushrods of $857 a piece to my front door from Premium in Arkansas.
It seems ECI sells then in quanity for much less than they will sell direct,
which is OK by them; they don't care who you buy it from as they sell it
either way.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave" <davevon(at)tir.com> |
You would have really felt bad though if Kent Paser blew past both of you with
his O-320 powered Mustang II, burning only 12 gph wide open...
From reading through Kent's book, it looks like there's a lot of things we can
do to get a few more knots out of our RV's.
Does anyone know how fast the fastest RV-6 is?
Dave
RV-6 O-360 tip-up
Mich.
On one leg, Mike and I had a chance to do some back to back full
throttle runs. Turns out a his Glasair IIS is exactly 20kts faster
than my RV-6. He also came away with Reserve Grand Champion this
year.
So they're faster, but not THAT much faster.
Laird
RV-6 640 hrs
SoCal
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Imfairings(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: fiberglass prep |
Rick,
Your best bet is to check with the paint shop you are going to use. You
could fill the pin holes with a body filler and sand with 150 or 220 grit
paper. I would check with them first, however.
Bob
Fairing-Etc.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
Here's some numbers
Bruce
www.glasair.org
Does anyone know how fast the fastest RV-6 is?
*******************
Copperstate Dash Air Race Results
Apple Valley (APV) to Coolidge (P08)
305 NM Course - Oct 11th, 2002
Millennium Class - Experimentals to 180 HP
Place Pilot - Aircraft - Time - Avg. Speed Kts
1st Richard Keyt - Polen Special - 1:10:52 - 258.23
2nd Don Saint - Glasair IIFT - 1:19:42 - 229.61
3rd Larry Henney - Lancair 360 - 1:20:41 - 226.81
4th Ray Caldwell - RV-6A 1:37:02 - 188.59
5th Charles Graves - Glasair I - 1:39:21 - 184.20
6th Matt Koglmeier - RV-6A - 141:29 - 180.33
7th Joh Rost - RV-6A - 1:43:54 - 176.13
Phoenix Class - Experimentals to 160 HP
Place Pilot - Aircraft - Time - Avg. Speed Kts
1st Norman Howell - Long EZ - 1:30:47 - 201.58
2nd Eddie Sneed - RV-3 - 1:40:28 - 182.15
3rd David Biesemeier - S. Sidewinder - 1:40:59 - 181.22
4th Jack Merritt - RV-6 - 1:55:12 - 158.85
5th Dean Berry - RV-6 - 1:56:05 - 157.65
6th Mark Reyner - RV-6A 1:56:61 - 156.61
Flash Gordon Class - Experimentals to 120 HP
Place Pilot - Aircraft - Time - Avg. Speed Kts
1st Klaus Savier - Varieze - 1:21:18 - 225.09
2nd Bob Eckes - Varieze - 1:35:09 - 192.33
3rd Dennis Vories - Turbo Europa - 1:49:27 - 167.20
Road Runner Class - Experimental to 90HP
Place Pilot - Aircraft - Time - Avg. Speed Kts
1st Ron Caraway - Cosman 1 - 1:53:55 - 160.64
2nd Kim Prout - Europa - 2:08:57 - 141.92
3rd David Wilcox - Sonarai - 2:12:22 - 138.25
Millennium Class - Certified to 180HP
Place Pilot - Aircraft - Time - Avg. Speed Kts
1st Scott Schroeder - Mooney - 2:03:45 - 147.88
2nd Adrian Funnell - Grumman - 2:06:07 - 145.10
Phoenix Class - Certified to 160 HP
Place Pilot - Aircraft - Time - Avg. Speed Kts
1st Robert Watson - Grumman - 2:09:09 - 141.07
2nd John Sims - c-172 - 2:23:25 - 127.60
3rd Walter Wasowski - C-172 - 2:34:54 - 118.14
4th Richard Johnson - c-172 - 2:42:16 - 112.78
Flash Gordon Class - Certified to 120HP
Place Pilot - Aircraft - Time - Avg. Speed Kts
1st Dan Hall - Ercoupe - 2:58:48 - 102.35
2nd John Drexler - Luscombe - 3:02:04 - 100.51
Road Runner Class - Certified to 90 HP
Place Pilot - Aircraft - Time - Avg. Speed Kts
1st Dan Overholt - Katana - 2:36:36 - 116.86
2nd Ralph Finch - Alon A-2 - 3:01:10 - 101.01
3rd D.Wayne Woolard - Alon A-2 - 3:01:39 - 100.74
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: fiberglass prep |
Rick: I sanded the gel-coat to erase the weave patterns, using 100-120 grit
open-coat paper, (lots of "elbow grease", an orbital palm sander helps) then
applied Dupont 30S Hi Speed Lacquer Primer Surfacer. sprayed and sanded as
required to seal pin-holes. Final sanded using 220-400 silicon-carbide
wet-dry paper.--------Cheers!!-------Henry
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Vans Air Filter Assembly |
The cut-out in the base-plate supplied in the kit fit exactly around the
drain area of my carb and only a small filet of RTV applied outside, was
required to seal. My concern was the chopping done to the filter element to
clear the bottom of the accelerator pump. This mod weakens the element to
the point that IT may be sucked-in!! I made some .025x1/2x1/2" alum. angles
slotted so they could be bent to follow the contours of the inside of the
element and then riveted them to the base-plates, top and
bottom. -------Cheers!!------Henry
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "3 rotor" <rv8r300(at)attbi.com> |
I found reference to it in the archives, but can't duplicate it. Does
anyone have a SORTED (my, what a radical idea) -8 fuselage kit parts list?
Randomly looking thru a list over 9' long seems wasteful. Are those little
brown paper bags of hardware (instead of clear plastic) kept around for
nastalgia's sake? Kevin -6A, -8
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: To cerminil or not to cerminil |
>When I built up this engine, 0-360 I had a set of chrome cylinders that I
>didn't know the age of but they were just in service limits so I figured I
>could get another 500 hours out of them. Well this has worked for 1 and 3 as
>I now have 300 hours on them, and the pisser is they are still at 79.5/80,
>but 2 and 4 are going south. I'm getting 50/80 on 2 and 62/80 on 4 at TDC.
>Its interesting to plot because if I move the piston about 3/4" down they
>both are in the mid 60s to 70s but as it moves up the ring gap opens due to
>taper and phooosh. It seems to make sense to just do all 4 now rather then
>waiting another 200 hours for the right side.
Why? If the engine is producing good power why overhaul?
How can we explain the results of your testing?
I guess you are sure you are using proper compression testing techniques?
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: parts inventory |
I gave up on the bag thing about 2 months into the project. I once asked
Van's helper elfs (we are approaching Christmas) about the bags.
They said they often kick that one around. It is a throw back to people
buying a section at a time. It was Van's way of making sure the customer
got the hardware they needed for that part of the kit.
As for me, finding 18,000 bags in a kit that had a hand full of
426-(fill in the size) rivets, drove me nuts.
I got a couple plastic drawer units and 3 tote type plastic boxes with
dividers and spent 2 or 3 hours separating the stuff. My son says I am
a kinder, nicer person because of this.
If Van had callouts on the plans that said go to bag 957, maybe I could
understand.
Funny thing is, unless you have experience and can ID hardware by
looking at it, the bag method leaves you with a lot of decisions.
I was (maybe still am) so in-experienced that I determined what a thing
was (in the bag) by how many where listed as being in the bag. A pretty
good techique, I think, because almost never are there 33 washers of
different sizes. There is 29 of one and 32 of another.
For me, the drawing calls for a rivet, I go to that rivet drawer and get
it. Not to a bag.
I used to be a bag lady in another life.
Barry Pote RV9a cut the canopy into 2 pieces today. No cracks so far.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Larry Hawkins <lhawkins(at)giant.com> |
Subject: | Vans Air Filter Assembly |
That sounds like a great idea, don't suppose you have pics. OK if you don't
I think I get the idea.
-----Original Message-----
From: Elsa & Henry [mailto:elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: Vans Air Filter Assembly
The cut-out in the base-plate supplied in the kit fit exactly around the
drain area of my carb and only a small filet of RTV applied outside, was
required to seal. My concern was the chopping done to the filter element to
clear the bottom of the accelerator pump. This mod weakens the element to
the point that IT may be sucked-in!! I made some .025x1/2x1/2" alum. angles
slotted so they could be bent to follow the contours of the inside of the
element and then riveted them to the base-plates, top and
bottom. -------Cheers!!------Henry
RE: RV-List: Vans Air Filter Assembly
That sounds like a great idea, don't suppose you have pics. OK if you don't I think
I get the idea.
-----Original Message-----
From: Elsa Henry [<A HREF"mailto:elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com">mailto:elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: Vans Air Filter Assembly
-- RV-List message posted by: Elsa Henry elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com
The cut-out in the base-plate supplied in the kit fit exactly around the
drain area of my carb and only a small filet of RTV applied outside, was
required to seal. My concern was the chopping done to the filter element to
clear the bottom of the accelerator pump. This mod weakens the element to
the point that IT may be sucked-in!! I made some .025x1/2x1/2 alum. angles
slotted so they could be bent to follow the contours of the inside of the
element and then riveted them to the base-plates, top and
bottom. -------Cheers!!------Henry
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jeff Bertsch <noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Clip Art or graphic of RV-4 |
I would like to get some Land's End shirts for my partners in our RV-4, but I need
a graphic of an RV-4 that I can possibly modify with our paint scheme. Or
if I can't find that, maybe a clip art of an RV-4 that is good enough to use.
Even better, if someone has already done this and Land's End has image on file,
I can use it and save big bucks.
Any advice?
Thanks
Jeff Bertsch
noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Chris Woodhouse <chrisw3(at)cox.net> |
RV-list
Subject: | Pneumatic Squeezers |
I have been reading recent messages and the archives about Pneumatic
Squeezers and I hear a lot of talk about a new design that you don't
need to use shims to adjust them but I can't find any info on that in
the catalogs I am looking at. Also I don't hear much about the A frame
type. I think one message said something about having to use the shims
where with the newer C frame squeezers you didn't have to, and a few
vague references that they were harder to use. Can someone shed some
more light on this subject. One thing I did learn from the catalogs, if
you want to squeeze bigger than 1/8" rivets those Squeezers can get
pretty dang heavy but the ones for 1/8" and smaller don't seem too bad.
--
Chris Woodhouse
3147 SW 127th St.
Oklahoma City, OK 73170
405-691-5206 (home)
chrisw(at)programmer.net
N35 20.492'
W97 34.342'
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "<alkritzm(at)rockwellcollins.com> |
(Content Technologies SMTPRS 4.2.10) with ESMTP id" ;
Wed,
20 Nov 2002 16:50:05.-0600(at)matronics.com
Subject: | N8EM First Flight |
5.0.10 |March 22, 2002) at 11/20/2002 04:50:43 PM
I made the first flight in my RV-8 N8EM (80353) on 11-19-02 after 5 1/2
years of building. The flight was uneventful just as I had hoped. The
only squawks were heavy left wing, encoder reporting incorrect altitude and
airspeed reading low (I think I have a leak). Total flight time was just
under an hour and included some slow flight and stalls. I would not really
break without flaps just kind of bobbed along, but I did not push it. With
flaps the stall break was mild with out any wing drop. The landing was not
as smooth as I had hoped but it did roll out straight once I got it pointed
down the runway. Nothing scary just not smooth.
Airplane particulars:
O-320 Sensenich Metal Prop.
Painted (Dodge Viper Race Yellow)
Simple interior, just foam seats with covers.
Microair Com and Transponder
No Vacuum system (waiting on glass cockpit)
Day/night VFR
Empty weight 1031 Lb (yes, that is on good digital scales)
Flies like a dream.
Pilot particulars:
Just under 100 hours total time. Yes I started building before I
started flying, I had the wings built before I had my first flight
instruction.
25 hours in a Citabria.
2 hours with Bob Lynch in his RV-6. I highly recommend Bob for
transition training he is a great teacher.
Alan Kritzman
RV-8 N8EM 0.9 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: To cerminil or not to cerminil |
Wheeler:
Sounds like a reasonable analysis, and I'm sure you'll be happy with the
results.
For what it's worth, I put Cerminil cylinders on my O-360 A4M and have been
very happy with the results. Break-in was uneventful and oil consumption at
100 hours is a little less than 1 quart/10hours, all of which finds its way
to the belly of my plane (woulda/could/shoulda installed an air/oil
seperator).
George Kilishek
N888GK
>From: Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "'RV-List Digest Server '"
>Subject: RV-List: To cerminil or not to cerminil
>Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 09:23:02 -0800
>
>
>that is the question.
>
>actually I have answered it but I thought I'd post my thoughts on the
>subject.
>
>When I built up this engine, 0-360 I had a set of chrome cylinders that I
>didn't know the age of but they were just in service limits so I figured I
>could get another 500 hours out of them. Well this has worked for 1 and 3
>as
>I now have 300 hours on them, and the pisser is they are still at 79.5/80,
>but 2 and 4 are going south. I'm getting 50/80 on 2 and 62/80 on 4 at TDC.
>Its interesting to plot because if I move the piston about 3/4" down they
>both are in the mid 60s to 70s but as it moves up the ring gap opens due to
>taper and phooosh. It seems to make sense to just do all 4 now rather then
>waiting another 200 hours for the right side.
>
>I have also noticed for sometime that when pulling to blades through each
>cylinder during preflight those two are definately weaker. Although I
>always
>do a full power runup on the end of the runway to assure full static RPM
>and
>that hasn't decreased, so they are still dynamically sealing.
>
>So, after reading everything Superior and ECI has to say about it I decided
>to go with ECI Steels. I picked ECI because they cost a lot less and they
>seemed to be doing just as much excellant research and development as the
>other guys. The question was cerminil or not. I found several "experts"
>that
>felt the break in issues along with the reduced ability to hold oil on the
>walls weren't worth it unless the engine wasn't being flown much. Then the
>extra corrosion protection was definately needed. The other issue is
>reworking the cerminils is much more difficult during the next overhaul.
>Well, I flew 250 hours last year so I went plain steel.
>
>The other question was to go 8.5:1, 9:1, or 10:1. It would cost more as the
>standard pistons are in the kit. The 9:1 0-320h2ad pistons are $42 each and
>the 10:1 helicopter pistons were a little more. I did not want the 10:1 as
>there will come a time when fuel and detonation is an issue, the only
>question is when. The other ones would give a slight increase in power, one
>that I might be able to notice, but would cost another $170. Seemed like a
>wash to me considering the engine manufacturer has gone to great lengths to
>make this a wonderful engine. Why pay money to change it now for something
>I
>might not even be able to notice???
>
>I got a good price for the complete kits, with gaskets, less wrist pins and
>rockers/pushrods of $857 a piece to my front door from Premium in Arkansas.
>It seems ECI sells then in quanity for much less than they will sell
>direct,
>which is OK by them; they don't care who you buy it from as they sell it
>either way.
>
>W
>
>
Help STOP SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE*
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
Subject: | Re: Pneumatic Squeezers |
There are [at least] two types of sets/plungers on these suckers. One is
adjustable...threaded, and you just rotate it to where you need it. The
other is fixed and intentionally short...you have to use washers/shims to
get the closed gap to be correct.
The pneumatic squeezer that Avery sells comes with the NON-adjustable set by
default. For another fifty bucks or however much it is, you can buy the
adjustable set.
I couldn't live without the adjustable set so I splurged for it. Some
people swear by the washer method, that it produces the most consistent
results and doesn't "creep." I'll buy that, but the adjustable set gives
you somewhat finer granularity. To each his own!
Hope this helps,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (fuselage)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Woodhouse" <chrisw3(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV-List: Pneumatic Squeezers
>
> I have been reading recent messages and the archives about Pneumatic
> Squeezers and I hear a lot of talk about a new design that you don't
> need to use shims to adjust them but I can't find any info on that in
> the catalogs I am looking at. Also I don't hear much about the A frame
> type. I think one message said something about having to use the shims
> where with the newer C frame squeezers you didn't have to, and a few
> vague references that they were harder to use. Can someone shed some
> more light on this subject. One thing I did learn from the catalogs, if
> you want to squeeze bigger than 1/8" rivets those Squeezers can get
> pretty dang heavy but the ones for 1/8" and smaller don't seem too bad.
>
> --
> Chris Woodhouse
> 3147 SW 127th St.
> Oklahoma City, OK 73170
> 405-691-5206 (home)
> chrisw(at)programmer.net
> N35 20.492'
> W97 34.342'
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bartrim, Todd" <sbartrim(at)mail.canfor.ca> |
You can't be serious? Building while fishing for parts out of those
stupid little bags? Buy yourself some quality, upright portable (not bolted
to the wall) plastic storage bins. (the 2 sided ones work great) It takes
about 2-3 hours during inventory to sort everything, but this is paid back a
hundred fold in time savings during building. I have one for rivets, 426 on
one side, 430 on the other, another for screws & nutplates & washers, and
another for nuts & bolts & blind rivets. That covers most all needs.
I'd imagine that most builders use a variation of this, but you
should never, ever be forced to look through those stupid little bags more
than once.
S. Todd Bartrim
Turbo 13B rotary powered
RX-9endurance (FWF)
C-FSTB (reserved)
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
> -----Original Message-----
> From: barry pote [SMTP:barrypote(at)comcast.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, November 20, 2002 1:19 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: parts inventory
>
>
> I gave up on the bag thing about 2 months into the project. I once asked
> Van's helper elfs (we are approaching Christmas) about the bags.
> They said they often kick that one around. It is a throw back to people
> buying a section at a time. It was Van's way of making sure the customer
> got the hardware they needed for that part of the kit.
>
> As for me, finding 18,000 bags in a kit that had a hand full of
> 426-(fill in the size) rivets, drove me nuts.
>
> I got a couple plastic drawer units and 3 tote type plastic boxes with
> dividers and spent 2 or 3 hours separating the stuff. My son says I am
> a kinder, nicer person because of this.
>
> If Van had callouts on the plans that said go to bag 957, maybe I could
> understand.
>
> Funny thing is, unless you have experience and can ID hardware by
> looking at it, the bag method leaves you with a lot of decisions.
>
> I was (maybe still am) so in-experienced that I determined what a thing
> was (in the bag) by how many where listed as being in the bag. A pretty
> good techique, I think, because almost never are there 33 washers of
> different sizes. There is 29 of one and 32 of another.
>
> For me, the drawing calls for a rivet, I go to that rivet drawer and get
> it. Not to a bag.
>
> I used to be a bag lady in another life.
>
> Barry Pote RV9a cut the canopy into 2 pieces today. No cracks so far.
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: More than I can Chew? |
>
>Louis:
>I have installed the system in my 4. If you can solder and have some hand
>eye coordination, enough to fly, you can do it. Give me a call and I will
>help all I can.
>Dave Aronson
>RV4 N504rv
Dave,
Thanks for the offer. Could you please send your phone number.
The Digitrak arrived today, and I am somewhat perplexed about the
electrical portion of the installation. Does anyone make pre-wired
connectors that I can cut up and splice? Also, am I to remove the
mechanical stops currently screwed onto the servo? It seems like there is
no way to mount the servo to the mounting bracket and retain the mechanical
stop. Did you rivet the bracket to the airframe, or did you use
screws? Oh well, then questions outnumber the answers. Hope to here from
you soon.
Louis
-
Louis I Willig
1640 Oakwood Dr.
Penn Valley, PA 19072
610 668-4964
RV-4, N180PF
190HP IO-360, C/S prop
255 exciting Hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Lycoming casting alloys |
Listers,
Does anyone know what alloy Lycoming makes the crankcases, accessory cover and
sump from?
Charlie Kuss
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re:Clip art or graphic of RV-4 |
The construction manual for the RV's has several drawings to use for
designing your paint scheme . I made several copies of these and designed &
redesigned until I got what I wanted.
There are three view and pictorials .
RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
Charleston, Arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
Subject: | Builders in the Truckee/Tahoe area? |
Are there any RV builders in the Truckee/Tahoe area? I'm going to be stuck
at my inlaws' house up there all next weekend, and I'd love an excuse not to
spend $60 on a freakin' lift ticket.
If anybody wants a 2nd pair of hands for RV-related stuff, just let me know!
8
)
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (fuselage)
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "3 rotor" <rv8r300(at)attbi.com> |
Subject: | Re: parts inventory |
you guys missed my point. It was that they give you a list of parts 9' long
in random order and ask you to find them all. I've got bins, heck, I've
already got a -6A I built in 2.5 years from unpunched parts. My guess is
that it isn't worth the time to check, it seems to have been checked pretty
well in the warehouse. kevin -6A, -8 fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jerry" <jdoyal(at)sport.rr.com> |
Subject: | Waco Texas Area Builders? |
I have built a 6A in the past and now building an 8A. Are there any builders in
the Greater Waco Metroplex? I am from Shreveport and will be in Waco Thursday
Nov 21 thru saturday or sunday and would like to visit some projects or flying
planes. E-Mail me or call me please! My cell # is 318-208-3111
Thanks in advance!
Jerry Doyal
jdoyal(at)sport.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com> |
Don't know if it is the fastest (at 180 HP) but I don't know of any that are
faster.
"180 HP RV" Class Sun 100 Race at Sun-N-Fun 2002 (KNOTS)...
1st Place Richard Jankowski N241RB RV-6 198.12
2nd Place Richardo Salinas N239RS RV-6 189.35
3rd Place Thomas Irlbeck N214FF RV-8 188.39
4th Place Steven Foste N104SJ RV-8 186.48
5th Place Frank Smith N83FS RV-4 184.50
6th Place Bob Hargrove N426NC RV-8 183.13
In the 200 HP class Dick Martin did a little over 200 kts. I am sure there
are "Super 6's" out there with a LOT more than 180+HP that are even faster,
but 198 kts in a "180+ HP" RV6 is nothing to sneeze at.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dave
> Sent: Wednesday, November 20, 2002 12:53 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Composites
>
>
> You would have really felt bad though if Kent Paser blew past
> both of you with his O-320 powered Mustang II, burning only 12
> gph wide open...
>
> >From reading through Kent's book, it looks like there's a lot of
> things we can do to get a few more knots out of our RV's.
>
> Does anyone know how fast the fastest RV-6 is?
>
> Dave
> RV-6 O-360 tip-up
> Mich.
>
>
> On one leg, Mike and I had a chance to do some back to back full
> throttle runs. Turns out a his Glasair IIS is exactly 20kts faster
> than my RV-6. He also came away with Reserve Grand Champion this
> year.
>
> So they're faster, but not THAT much faster.
>
> Laird
> RV-6 640 hrs
> SoCal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
Subject: | Re: parts inventory |
Clear plastic fishing lure storage boxes from the "Aviation Department" at
Wal Mart (or Cdn tire for those north of the 49th) do well too. You can even
jot notes about bolt lengths, etc. on the cover with your favorite colour
Sharpie. :-0
Jim Oke
RV-6A
Wpg., MB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bartrim, Todd" <sbartrim(at)mail.canfor.ca>
Subject: RE: RV-List: parts inventory
>
> You can't be serious? Building while fishing for parts out of
those
> stupid little bags? Buy yourself some quality, upright portable (not
bolted
> to the wall) plastic storage bins. (the 2 sided ones work great) It takes
> about 2-3 hours during inventory to sort everything, but this is paid back
a
> hundred fold in time savings during building. I have one for rivets, 426
on
> one side, 430 on the other, another for screws & nutplates & washers, and
> another for nuts & bolts & blind rivets. That covers most all needs.
> I'd imagine that most builders use a variation of this, but you
> should never, ever be forced to look through those stupid little bags more
> than once.
>
> S. Todd Bartrim
> Turbo 13B rotary powered
> RX-9endurance (FWF)
> C-FSTB (reserved)
> http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: barry pote [SMTP:barrypote(at)comcast.net]
> > Sent: Wednesday, November 20, 2002 1:19 PM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: parts inventory
> >
> >
> > I gave up on the bag thing about 2 months into the project. I once asked
> > Van's helper elfs (we are approaching Christmas) about the bags.
> > They said they often kick that one around. It is a throw back to people
> > buying a section at a time. It was Van's way of making sure the customer
> > got the hardware they needed for that part of the kit.
> >
> > As for me, finding 18,000 bags in a kit that had a hand full of
> > 426-(fill in the size) rivets, drove me nuts.
> >
> > I got a couple plastic drawer units and 3 tote type plastic boxes with
> > dividers and spent 2 or 3 hours separating the stuff. My son says I am
> > a kinder, nicer person because of this.
> >
> > If Van had callouts on the plans that said go to bag 957, maybe I could
> > understand.
> >
> > Funny thing is, unless you have experience and can ID hardware by
> > looking at it, the bag method leaves you with a lot of decisions.
> >
> > I was (maybe still am) so in-experienced that I determined what a thing
> > was (in the bag) by how many where listed as being in the bag. A pretty
> > good techique, I think, because almost never are there 33 washers of
> > different sizes. There is 29 of one and 32 of another.
> >
> > For me, the drawing calls for a rivet, I go to that rivet drawer and get
> > it. Not to a bag.
> >
> > I used to be a bag lady in another life.
> >
> > Barry Pote RV9a cut the canopy into 2 pieces today. No cracks so far.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Francis Malczynski" <ebbfmm(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | N8EM First Flight |
Congratulations, nice to see that someone else's landings aren't as smooth
as they would like. I too had about 25 hours total tail dragger time and
opted for transition training with Mike Seagar. It really paid off.
Congratulations again.
Fran Malczynski
Rv6 - N594EF
Olcott, NY
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
(Content Technologies SMTPRS 4.2.10) with
ESMTP id
Subject: RV-List: N8EM First Flight
Technologies SMTPRS 4.2.10) with ESMTP id
I made the first flight in my RV-8 N8EM (80353) on 11-19-02 after 5 1/2
years of building. The flight was uneventful just as I had hoped. The
only squawks were heavy left wing, encoder reporting incorrect altitude and
airspeed reading low (I think I have a leak). Total flight time was just
under an hour and included some slow flight and stalls. I would not really
break without flaps just kind of bobbed along, but I did not push it. With
flaps the stall break was mild with out any wing drop. The landing was not
as smooth as I had hoped but it did roll out straight once I got it pointed
down the runway. Nothing scary just not smooth.
Airplane particulars:
O-320 Sensenich Metal Prop.
Painted (Dodge Viper Race Yellow)
Simple interior, just foam seats with covers.
Microair Com and Transponder
No Vacuum system (waiting on glass cockpit)
Day/night VFR
Empty weight 1031 Lb (yes, that is on good digital scales)
Flies like a dream.
Pilot particulars:
Just under 100 hours total time. Yes I started building before I
started flying, I had the wings built before I had my first flight
instruction.
25 hours in a Citabria.
2 hours with Bob Lynch in his RV-6. I highly recommend Bob for
transition training he is a great teacher.
Alan Kritzman
RV-8 N8EM 0.9 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rick Galati" <rick07x(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | re: RC Allen attitude indicator gyro |
Real,
Can you confirm that your attitude gyro is calibrated for an 8 degree panel
tilt? If not, the chances of your gyro failing in short order are greatly
increased.
--- Rick Galati
--- rick07x(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | P M Condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
Subject: | Re: Cylinder replacement |
cylinder cylinders Cerminil ECI
From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: To cerminil or not to cerminil
Wheeler:
Sounds like a reasonable analysis, and I'm sure you'll be happy with the
results.
For what it's worth, I put Cerminil cylinders on my O-360 A4M and have
been
very happy with the results. Break-in was uneventful and oil
consumption at
100 hours is a little less than 1 quart/10hours, all of which finds its
way
to the belly of my plane (woulda/could/shoulda installed an air/oil
seperator).
George Kilishek
N888GK
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Locking Down Fuel Fittings |
From: | Don.Alexander(at)AstenJohnson.com |
11/21/2002 09:44:36 AM
Hello List
I am getting ready to close out my tanks and had a question about the fuel
fittings. Should the fuel fittings inside the wings have any sort of
sealant/locking compound on them? I am using a fixed pick-up in one wing
and a flop tube in the other. I didn't know if the compression of the
fittings is enough to prevent leaks, or if a sealer is needed. I also
wondered if all of the many joints on the flop tube will stay together or
if they need some sort of locking compound.
Don Alexander
RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | A/C Data Plate Requirements |
Folks,
Does anyone know the FAR that references the the required information on the
A/C data plate? I have 2 or 3 different samples, all with slightly different
fields.
Thanks,
-Don
RV8 NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | mstewart(at)qa.butler.com |
Subject: | Re: A/C Data Plate Requirements |
Everything you ever wanted to know about data plates.
http://www.airworthy.org/dataplates.htm
Mike Stewart
Everything you ever wanted to know about data plates.
http://www.airworthy.org/dataplates.htm
Mike Stewart
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
Subject: | Re: parts inventory |
After seeing the fancy storage bins they use in Home Depot to store
things like small fasteners, I hunted down the manufacturer myself. I
ended up with a wall of 10 rows of these 6-drawer bins:
http://www.tiltbin.com/6bin.html
They work great, and when you need to use a lot of one size of rivet you
can one bin out and move it around your shop. Wall mounted, they keep
everything visible and accessible. Each "drawer" has a little nametag
slot at the top that you can label the contents with without blocking
the view of what's inside.
No, I don't work for them, I just like their product...
-RB4
RV7 Empennage
Jim Oke wrote:
>
> Clear plastic fishing lure storage boxes from the "Aviation Department" at
> Wal Mart (or Cdn tire for those north of the 49th) do well too. You can even
> jot notes about bolt lengths, etc. on the cover with your favorite colour
> Sharpie. :-0
>
> Jim Oke
> RV-6A
> Wpg., MB
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rick Galati" <rick07x(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: re RC Allen attitude indicator gyro |
Dave,
The good folks at R.C. Allen can more precisely explain why a gyro
can prematurely fail if not matched for panel tilt much better than I can.
Here's what we can all observe first hand. Assuming an out of the box zero
tilt A/H, the adjustable horizon bar controlled by a knob has more or less
the same amount of travel up and down when the instrument is level. If you
take this same zero degree calibrated instrument and place it at an 8
degree angle as found on your average RV-6 you will find that the adjustable
horizon bar is already nearing one of its limits at an 8 degree
angle. However, when this instrument is recalibrated for an 8 degree
tilt, the adjustable horizon bar once again allows for the same amount of travel
up or down when the instrument is placed at an 8 degree angle such as found in
our RV's. I'm sure that the folks at R.C. Allen make some internal
adjustments to the A/H to insure reliability but what specifically,
I do not know.
--- Rick Galati
--- rick07x(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RC allen attitude indicator problem |
Hi Real: I also had a problem with my R C Allen Horizon Gyro RCA 22-7! The
darned thing worked great for the first 5 hours of its operating life as my
same time of flight of my RV-6A. It suddenly assumed an ~ 80 degree left
bank and stuck there.(Never got into that attitude) On shut down, as the
vacuum died, it would start to spin like a top and slowly slow down until it
did its dance as a normal gyro does on start-up. Knowing it was out of
warranty and being naturally curious, I opened it up and had a good look.-
There is a brass nut threaded about half way down a 6-32 stub sticking up
from the center of the main gimbal arm,(a balance adjuster)-and it was
loose! It could be turned easily about three turns. I also noted that there
was considerable side play across the main gimbal arms in the gyro-wheel
case. I took it to a reputable repair shop in Dorval, (Montreal) and
described what I had seen. There should be nothing loose, the nut should
have been properly sealed and there should have not been any side play. I
got away cheap-- they charged me 2 hours labor! (C$120 total + taxes) The
Quality Control Report stated that "threaded bearing holder is loosened". It
was "--opened, partially disassembled, checked, cleaned, reassembled and
tested--"
It's been working great since.
I am not impressed with RC Allens' quality control!!!
Cheers!--------Henry Hore
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
>
> SNIP Gyros have a very limited "shelf life", and if they sit
> for extended periods of time without being run will become
> useless. This happens because all of the grease in the
> needle bearings will settle down to the bottom, and the
> bearings may become stuck.
While I accept this theory is widely believed to be true, it does not
pass the reasonableness test. A more likely suspect is handling that
might occur while gyros are being "stored". Torch away.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 229 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: re: RC Allen attitude indicator gyro |
In a message dated 11/21/2002 4:52:54 AM Pacific Standard Time,
rick07x(at)earthlink.net writes:
> Can you confirm that your attitude gyro is calibrated for an 8 degree panel
> tilt? If not, the chances of your gyro failing in short order are greatly
> increased.
Can someone who knows how these gyros are constructed, corroborate or disavow
this old wives tale? My understanding is that the only thing that gets
changed for the 8-10 deg tilt is the height of the little airplane on the
adjusting post. What really is going on here?
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 575hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
Subject: | Re: [RV7Yahoo] Flop tube installtion |
Bobby Hester wrote:
> I know I saw somewhere that someones instalation included a cover
> riveted over the big center hole on the rib that the door is installed
> on. I don't see any mention of that in the directions. Is it suppose to
> be covered or not?
>
Here is the answer I got back from Gus Funnell at Vans, this information is not
in the Plans or the directions. If your installing a flop tube you will need
to do this.
Subject: Re: Flop Tube mod - cover hole or not
From: Gus Funnell <gusf@vansaircraft>
Date: 11/18/02 10:57AM
You need to cover the hole or fuel will run out of the inboard bay too
fast.
Vans
On 17 Nov 02, at 21:37, Bobby Hester wrote:
>> I am installing a flop tube in my last tank. I have installed the
>> hinged door, but I am not sure if I am suppose to put a cover over
>> this hole. I have seen that done on other web sites, but there is no
>> mention of it in the directions and it is not shown on the plans
>> either. Please let me know if I should rivet the plate over the hole
>> or not.
>>
>> --
>> Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
>> Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
>> RV7A Working on the wings :-)
>>
>>
>
>
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Working on the wings :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
Subject: | Re: RC allen attitude indicator problem |
I think you hit it on the head. Quality control. They have some gyros out
there that run great for 1000 hours, and others that fail after 5. I've
heard both sides of the coin for years now. Personally, the fact that I've
heard many negative problems with RC Allen, is enough for me to never put
them in an airplane. I put SigmaTek in mine and it works perfectly. That's
enough for a decision on the next plane.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RC allen attitude indicator problem
<elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
>
> Hi Real: I also had a problem with my R C Allen Horizon Gyro RCA 22-7! The
> darned thing worked great for the first 5 hours of its operating life as
my
> same time of flight of my RV-6A. It suddenly assumed an ~ 80 degree left
> bank and stuck there.(Never got into that attitude) On shut down, as the
> vacuum died, it would start to spin like a top and slowly slow down until
it
> did its dance as a normal gyro does on start-up. Knowing it was out of
> warranty and being naturally curious, I opened it up and had a good look.-
> There is a brass nut threaded about half way down a 6-32 stub sticking up
> from the center of the main gimbal arm,(a balance adjuster)-and it was
> loose! It could be turned easily about three turns. I also noted that
there
> was considerable side play across the main gimbal arms in the gyro-wheel
> case. I took it to a reputable repair shop in Dorval, (Montreal) and
> described what I had seen. There should be nothing loose, the nut should
> have been properly sealed and there should have not been any side play. I
> got away cheap-- they charged me 2 hours labor! (C$120 total + taxes) The
> Quality Control Report stated that "threaded bearing holder is loosened".
It
> was "--opened, partially disassembled, checked, cleaned, reassembled and
> tested--"
> It's been working great since.
> I am not impressed with RC Allens' quality control!!!
> Cheers!--------Henry Hore
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
Subject: | Re: Locking Down Fuel Fittings |
Don,
Recommend pro-seal on the inside tank fittings. For the flop tube, take
out the 'O' ring that acts as a bumper on the end, put a little proseal in
the 'O' ring groove, then reinstall the 'O' ring. A while back there was
some discussion of these 'O' rings working themselves off. Use a little
proseal on the flop tube fittings as well. Just be careful not to get any
inside the tube.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (flying)
Vienna, VA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Don.Alexander(at)AstenJohnson.com
Subject: RV-List: Re: Locking Down Fuel Fittings
Hello List
I am getting ready to close out my tanks and had a question about the fuel
fittings. Should the fuel fittings inside the wings have any sort of
sealant/locking compound on them? I am using a fixed pick-up in one wing
and a flop tube in the other. I didn't know if the compression of the
fittings is enough to prevent leaks, or if a sealer is needed. I also
wondered if all of the many joints on the flop tube will stay together or
if they need some sort of locking compound.
Don Alexander
RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
Subject: | Re: re: RC Allen attitude indicator gyro |
The gyro doesn't care about the tilt - only the pilot does. The
gyro just thinks it's in a slight dive most of the time. If you can adjust the
horizon bar for level flight ( I can on mine)
it will work just fine. Although, if you're IFR you'd probably want the tilt
added since the moveable horizon bar
won't line up with level on the outside of the moving gyro face.
The bottom line is that not having the tilt added will not damage the instrument.
Dave
Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 11/21/2002 4:52:54 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> rick07x(at)earthlink.net writes:
>
> > Can you confirm that your attitude gyro is calibrated for an 8 degree panel
> > tilt? If not, the chances of your gyro failing in short order are greatly
> > increased.
>
> Can someone who knows how these gyros are constructed, corroborate or disavow
> this old wives tale? My understanding is that the only thing that gets
> changed for the 8-10 deg tilt is the height of the little airplane on the
> adjusting post. What really is going on here?
>
> -GV (RV-6A N1GV 575hrs)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
Hi Alex,
No Torching necessary. You're explanation carries as much weight as the
rest of them. I only posted the storage thing because I have a friend who
repairs Gyros for a living, and told me of the problems he had seen as a
result of extended storage.
Of course handling could and most likely is the #1 reason for failure, along
with plumbing them wrong initially.
Have a great night. I look forward to your seminar on wiring at Saturday's
meeting!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6, Rosemount, MN
Still flying of the time!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Alex Peterson
Subject: RE: RV-List: Gyros
>
> SNIP Gyros have a very limited "shelf life", and if they sit
> for extended periods of time without being run will become
> useless. This happens because all of the grease in the
> needle bearings will settle down to the bottom, and the
> bearings may become stuck.
While I accept this theory is widely believed to be true, it does not
pass the reasonableness test. A more likely suspect is handling that
might occur while gyros are being "stored". Torch away.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 229 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jack <baron58(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: RC Allen attitude indicator |
Rick Galati wrote:
> ...place it at an 8 degree angle as found on your
> average RV-6 you will find that the adjustable horizon
> bar is already nearing one of its limits at an 8 degree
> angle.
What possible effect could the positioning of the horizon bar (an
external adjustable visual reference) have on the internal workings of
the gyro?
Jack
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
Subject: | Re: Skybolt's site |
barry pote wrote:
>
>Netscape 4.7 will not open www.skybolt.com.
>Must use Microsoft explorer.
>
>Barry Pote RV9a
>
>
Upgrade to Netscape 7.0, I did and I love it! It will open
www.skybolt.com just fine!
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Working on the wings :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | PittsS1D(at)aol.com |
Subject: | KMA24 Audio Panel for Sale |
KMA24 Audio Panel/Marker Beacon Receiver for Sale. Excellent condition.
Yellow tagged from JA Air with installation kit and manuals. $700.
Selling because I sold plane and don't need.
Please respond off list to Chuck at grayk9(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim Daniels <jwdanie(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: Comfortable parachutes? |
>> Hi Tim
>> I just tried two different parachutes for comfort from Strong
>> Parachute Co.
>> Both were uncomfortable for me. They were about as soft as a rock.
>> I have
>> an RV8a with the tall man option for the seat back and it put my
>> knees right
>> under the panel. Try them your self they will send you a parachute
>> for ten
>> days to see if you like it. If you do, then they will make you a
>> custom
>> color one.
>>
>> I am going to try Softie Parachute next. My feeling is what good is
>> it if
>> you don't use it.
I don't have any direct experience with the RV comfort yet (still
building), but in the glider my National 425 was extremely comfortable
for hours on end. The one neat feature is that the chute is convertible
between a back style and seat style with a removable flap for the lower
portion (GRF Option).
Each brand has pros and cons. I found the armored cable of the softie
to be uncomfortable in the tight glider cockpit, but on the plus side
it has excellent access to the ripcord pins for inspection. The
National, on the other hand, is so difficult to inspect the pins that I
usually didn't. The plus side was the comfort.
If there is a soaring operation nearby that might be a good place to
try on some different brands and models. You might even talk some of
them into building an RV - it happened to me!
http://www.wingsandwheels.com/page39.htm
http://www.nationalparachute.com
http://www.pia.com/silver/index.htm <- Softies & some good articles
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
Subject: | Re: RE: [rv8list] riveting around hinges |
Michael D. Crowe wrote:
>
>Lucky,
>
> I have always used a Tatco hand squeezer for that job. Different heads have
>thinner ends where the dies go in. Check with builders in your area to see
>if one has a thinner head you can borrow. If you are in the Atlanta area I
>could help you out.
>
>Mike Crowe
>RV8A
>Tail Done
> To: rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com
> Cc: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: [rv8list] riveting around hinges
>
>
> Can someone please put me out of my misery and post a picture of a
>modified
> squeezer yoke or some other method that works for riveting on the hinge to
> the elevator trim tab?
>
> I modified a pair of pliers to try and squeeze some of the rivets that I
> couldn't get to with my TATCO hand squeezer with no luck (i'd need to be
> Popeye to do an adequate job).
>
> This is not a place where I can see using something like use an ax blade
>or
> tapered bucking bar.
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> Lucky
>
>
>
I had trouble with that also, goto my Tips page and scroll down a little
to see what I found that works
http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/Tips.html
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Working on the wings :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Dear Listers,
We are quickly approaching the end of November and the official end of the
List Fund Raiser. If you look forward to checking your List email everyday
(and a lot of you have written to say that you do!), then you're probably
getting at least $20 or $30 worth of Entertainment from the Lists each
year. You'd pay twice that for a subscription to some lame magazine or
even a dinner out. Isn't the List worth at least that much to
you? Wouldn't it be great if you could pay that same amount and get a
well-managed media source free of advertising, SPAM, and viruses? Come to
think of it, you do... :-)
Won't you please take a minute to make your Contribution today and support
YOUR Lists.
Contribution Page:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Again, I want to say THANK YOU to everyone that has made a Contribution
thus far during this year's List Fund Raiser!! These Lists are made
possible exclusively through YOUR generosity!!
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Nolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
When I bought my RC Allen Attitude gyro, I talked to the woman that
makes them. Yep, woman. She explained to me that I could do all the
aerobatics I wanted to, just so long as I didn't do a loop.
Dave Bristol was right. The adjustable bar isn't the problem with a
gyro that doesn't have an 8 degree tilt. The earth and sky don't line up on
the center of the gauge. That's weird looking at. I bought a new gauge just
for that reason.
Jim Nolan
N444JN
Warsaw, In.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: Loops and gyros (wasRC Allen) |
A friend was a contractor who worked on instruments and avionics for Air
Force. While visiting his facility, he did a demo for me. He spun up a
gyro out of a T-37 and simulated some airobatics by holding the gyro in his
hand and moving it through the motions. The loop movement caused the gyro
to make a very loud knock. He stated that loops are not good on gyros. He
simulated a barrel roll and there was no knock. I can't remember if the
roll was to left or right or if direction was important. He says he never
does loops in his RV6, but does rolls and barrel rolls and a few other
manuvers.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
RV6 N296JC(res)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Nolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com>
Subject: RV-List: RC Allen
>
> When I bought my RC Allen Attitude gyro, I talked to the woman that
> makes them. Yep, woman. She explained to me that I could do all the
> aerobatics I wanted to, just so long as I didn't do a loop.
> Dave Bristol was right. The adjustable bar isn't the problem with a
> gyro that doesn't have an 8 degree tilt. The earth and sky don't line up
on
> the center of the gauge. That's weird looking at. I bought a new gauge
just
> for that reason.
> Jim Nolan
> N444JN
> Warsaw, In.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: N223RV First Flight! |
CONGRADULATIONS and WELL DONE !!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: N8292W(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: N223RV First Flight!
>Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 22:43:24 EST
>
>
>This is kinda old news now, but I flew my RV-4 for the first time October
>30th from Willow Run Airport in Michigan. Plane came in at 1030 lbs
>unpainted, but is full IFR, including vacuum system. The plane flew
>excellent with no major issues and minimal trimming necessary. I only have
>6.5 hours to date (crappy Michigan weather!) It took 3 years and 8 months
>(including a move from Atlanta to Michigan and getting married with a
>honeymoon at Sun-N-Fun this year!) and just over 1700 hours. I still have
>a
>bit of fiberglass work to do, and then paint.
>Specs:
>-0320-E2D modified to 160 hp
>-Sensenich fixed pitch prop
>-climbs out at 100 mph and 2000 fpm sustained
>-KX155 radio with VOR and G/S
>-Standard T panel with all 6 gauges
>-UMA 1.25" engine gages (nice and small for my tiny panel)
>-center stack built over battery compartment to hold the radio, panel
>mounted
>Garmin 295, transponder (KT-76A) and Van's fuel gauges.
>
>A special thanks to all at Van's, everyone on the list who helped me (both
>directly and indirectly), and to Russ Werner who provided me with all kinds
>of incite and was always there to bounce ideas off of!
>
>I know y'all have heard it over and over, but keep workin' on that plane,
>it
>is worth every second of the time spent!
>
>
The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE*
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: N8EM First Flight |
Alan,
CONGRADULATIONS and WELL DONE !!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "<alkritzm(at)rockwellcollins.com> (Content Technologies SMTPRS 4.2.10)
> 20 Nov 2002 16:50:05.-0600(at)matronics.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com, rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com, info(at)vansaircraft.com
>Subject: RV-List: N8EM First Flight
>Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 16:55:32 -0600 5.0.10 |March 22, 2002) at 11/20/2002
>04:50:43 PM
>
>Technologies SMTPRS 4.2.10) with ESMTP id
>
>I made the first flight in my RV-8 N8EM (80353) on 11-19-02 after 5 1/2
>years of building. The flight was uneventful just as I had hoped. The
>only squawks were heavy left wing, encoder reporting incorrect altitude and
>airspeed reading low (I think I have a leak). Total flight time was just
>under an hour and included some slow flight and stalls. I would not really
>break without flaps just kind of bobbed along, but I did not push it. With
>flaps the stall break was mild with out any wing drop. The landing was not
>as smooth as I had hoped but it did roll out straight once I got it pointed
>down the runway. Nothing scary just not smooth.
>
>Airplane particulars:
> O-320 Sensenich Metal Prop.
> Painted (Dodge Viper Race Yellow)
> Simple interior, just foam seats with covers.
> Microair Com and Transponder
> No Vacuum system (waiting on glass cockpit)
> Day/night VFR
> Empty weight 1031 Lb (yes, that is on good digital scales)
> Flies like a dream.
>Pilot particulars:
> Just under 100 hours total time. Yes I started building before I
> started flying, I had the wings built before I had my first flight
> instruction.
> 25 hours in a Citabria.
> 2 hours with Bob Lynch in his RV-6. I highly recommend Bob for
> transition training he is a great teacher.
>
>
>Alan Kritzman
>RV-8 N8EM 0.9 hours
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
Subject: | Gyros and aerobatics |
The recent posts about gyros, tilt, etc. and aerobatics has been
interesting. It is true that an artificial horizon gyro doesn't like
loops, and the directional gyro doesn't like rolls. Each gyro has
limits to its travel, and when the limits are reached, large forces are
generated. It should be noted that caging is not some magic force
reduction device either.
This summer, I installed pneumatic valves on my gyros, so that I can
shut them off when planning aerobatic flight. The valves are three way
valves, and when switched simply shunt the vacuum past the gyro and off
towards the vacuum pump. I can reach these valves under the panel in
flight. I would suspect that a "dead" gyro hitting its stops has
essentially zero force as compared to a spun up one.
It is interesting to note the spin down times of my gyros - the AH
starts to show a nose down attitude in about 2 minutes, while the DG
seems to take something like 6 to 10 minutes to stop functioning. Also
interesting is that the AH must be completely dead before restarting in
flight, if it is to erect itself (residual spinning will not allow it to
use "gravity" to erect itself).
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 229 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Hal,
I'm pretty certain my technique is good. I always check @ TDC then check
either side of TDC with the piston land forced into the ring going up.
The results are because most of the cylinder wear occurs at the top due to
high heat and pressure. That's one of the reasons the aluminum head doesn't
go very far down over the steel. The heat and high pressure is at the top
for a short duration. My concern was and is, after the chrome gets so thin
it will finally delaminate, which I have seen happen to over a dozen
engines. Its one of the reasons I won't recommend chrome as a viable means
to repair cylinders. Also as the cylinder wears from a choked to a tapered
condition the piston no longer has the centering alignment effect that the
choke offers. This then tends to promote more blow by, quicker rate of wear,
more contamination, etc. The bottom end only has 300 hours on it so I was
hesitant to push it any further for fear of doing end unecessary damage
there.
With the swishing ease of pulling through #2 and #4 I just wasn't
comfortable flying behind it any longer. Gradual wear can transition into
catastrophic wear fairly rapidly.
W
From: kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: To cerminil or not to cerminil
>When I built up this engine, 0-360 I had a set of chrome cylinders that I
>didn't know the age of but they were just in service limits so I figured I
>could get another 500 hours out of them. Well this has worked for 1 and 3
as
>I now have 300 hours on them, and the pisser is they are still at 79.5/80,
>but 2 and 4 are going south. I'm getting 50/80 on 2 and 62/80 on 4 at TDC.
>Its interesting to plot because if I move the piston about 3/4" down they
>both are in the mid 60s to 70s but as it moves up the ring gap opens due to
>taper and phooosh. It seems to make sense to just do all 4 now rather then
>waiting another 200 hours for the right side.
Why? If the engine is producing good power why overhaul?
How can we explain the results of your testing?
I guess you are sure you are using proper compression testing techniques?
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
\"Rocket-List Digest (E-mail)\""
The RV-6A in Arkansas is sold. I knew it wouldn't last thru the weekend. You
gotta be ready to jump when these things pop up.
Someone inquired why it was for sale. Owner's health has taken a big hit recently
and he felt it was time to give up flying. Bummer. Pray for him and his
family. They're facing some tough times.
Vince
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Karpinski" <karpinski(at)baldcom.net> |
Subject: | Gyros... Aerobatics .... Off Switches...?? |
.
So them the next logical step is...
If you really want Gyro's. And want to do light aerobatics too..
It may be worth either a switch (Electrics) or a valve (Vac) and then
NOT firing them up at the start of the flight ?
Any comments from you Gyro experts out there ? ? Inactive gyro's less
likely to be harmed.. (logical and easy to do...)
Al Karpinski RV8 50%
CNY
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: parts inventory |
I went to a local photo-processing place and asked them for empty film
cassettes. They gave me a shopping bag full of them, glad to get rid of
them! There must have been ~200 of them. My "green-thumb" wife is now using
them for seeds and I used them for various RV parts. The white plastic ones
are fine for rivets, one for each type and size and the snap-on top prevents
embitterment when exposed to the stuff we breathe! The black ones are great
for AN bolts (the ones that fit) and a variety of other small parts, all
identified on the gray cover with the venerable "Sharpie", all stored in
stack bins. I found that the white ones were great for storing two-part
epoxy primer paint left over from a late evening session, and continuing the
next morning, as the stuff I use has a 12 hour pot life. (At
least).-------Cheers!! -------Henry Hore
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Neil McLeod" <bedrock(at)theriver.com> |
Subject: | Re: Gyros and aerobatics |
Alex,
Where could one find these valves? Nice looking plane BTW.
Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
Subject: RV-List: Gyros and aerobatics
>
> The recent posts about gyros, tilt, etc. and aerobatics has been
> interesting. It is true that an artificial horizon gyro doesn't like
> loops, and the directional gyro doesn't like rolls. Each gyro has
> limits to its travel, and when the limits are reached, large forces are
> generated. It should be noted that caging is not some magic force
> reduction device either.
>
> This summer, I installed pneumatic valves on my gyros, so that I can
> shut them off when planning aerobatic flight. The valves are three way
> valves, and when switched simply shunt the vacuum past the gyro and off
> towards the vacuum pump. I can reach these valves under the panel in
> flight. I would suspect that a "dead" gyro hitting its stops has
> essentially zero force as compared to a spun up one.
>
> It is interesting to note the spin down times of my gyros - the AH
> starts to show a nose down attitude in about 2 minutes, while the DG
> seems to take something like 6 to 10 minutes to stop functioning. Also
> interesting is that the AH must be completely dead before restarting in
> flight, if it is to erect itself (residual spinning will not allow it to
> use "gravity" to erect itself).
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> RV6-A N66AP 229 hours
> www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kenneth Beene" <kbeene(at)citilink.com> |
Subject: | Gyros and aerobatics |
>
> This summer, I installed pneumatic valves on my gyros, so
> that I can shut them off when planning aerobatic flight.
Alex, I wonder if a non-spinning gyro will really last longer in an
aircraft. I know that the little NavAid eclectic gyro bangs the stops a
lot more when not powered. There is not much mass here and at appears
to be different with my heaver vacuum gyros. The vibration damage to
the bearings might be worse when they are static.
I don't know if loops are harder on AIs than rolls but I flew for 220
hours with only rolls and 10 hours after starting loops my SigmaTec AI
started acting up. The DG and NavAid TC are still solid.
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
Subject: | Re: Gyros... Aerobatics .... Off Switches...?? |
The gyro shops that I've talked to say that it won't help to turn them off and
that the longevity will be about the same. I'm not sure of the logic here but
it may be that the vibration on the stopped bearing may be the problem. These
are kind of delicate bearings.
Maybe the answer is to make them easily removable?
Dave
Karpinski wrote:
>
> .
> So them the next logical step is...
>
> If you really want Gyro's. And want to do light aerobatics too..
>
> It may be worth either a switch (Electrics) or a valve (Vac) and then
> NOT firing them up at the start of the flight ?
>
> Any comments from you Gyro experts out there ? ? Inactive gyro's less
> likely to be harmed.. (logical and easy to do...)
>
> Al Karpinski RV8 50%
> CNY
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rick Galati" <rick07x(at)earthlink.net> |
Listers,
The following is a partial response to a query posed to Kelly Manufacturing
(RC Allen). Part of my response to a previous question regarding these
issues was in error. I stand corrected.
----- Original Message -----
From: kmc
info
Subject: Re: RC Allen
Rick,
The main problem with installing
a zero degree tilt in an 8 degree panel is that the pitch will always be
off. We do not think this will significantly change the life of the
unit. The concern would be that the unit is not displaying properly
because of the incorrect tilt............
Thanks,
kmc
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick Galati
AM
Subject: RC Allen
Hello,
Could you please explain to me the consequences of installing a zero tilt
RC Allen electric artificial horizon instrument onto an 8 degree instrument
panel? Will this or will this not shorten the life of the
instrument? Thank you.
--- Rick Galati
--- rick07x(at)earthlink.net
--- Rick Galati
--- rick07x(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Karpinski" <karpinski(at)baldcom.net> |
Subject: | Solid State Gyro's |
No flaming here... But
The general underlying feeling is..
Gyro's in general are expensive, and have lousy warranties...
keep them always from aerobatics...
**********************************************
Sooo... What about SS Gyros... a quick look on the net revealed
Comments about Control Development "EARLY" try at it for $3.5K (Ouch!)
If they could take the screen of a PDA and package it in a 3 1/2 " round
hole ?? For say $1K.. Well then.. :>
anyone played with one of these..... looks like they are just starting to
ship now...
****************
http://www.anywheremap.com/pages/ai.htm
Al Karpinski RV8 50%
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Joshua Siler" <joshs(at)ninatek.com> |
Subject: | Solid State Gyro's |
The EFIS D10 from Dynon (http://www.dynondevelopment.com) looks
interesting. About 2k I think...not sure if they are shipping yet.
Josh
http://www.pilotdaily.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Karpinski
Subject: RV-List: Solid State Gyro's
No flaming here... But
The general underlying feeling is..
Gyro's in general are expensive, and have lousy warranties...
keep them always from aerobatics...
**********************************************
Sooo... What about SS Gyros... a quick look on the net revealed
Comments about Control Development "EARLY" try at it for $3.5K
(Ouch!)
If they could take the screen of a PDA and package it in a 3 1/2 "
round
hole ?? For say $1K.. Well then.. :>
anyone played with one of these..... looks like they are just starting
to
ship now...
****************
http://www.anywheremap.com/pages/ai.htm
Al Karpinski RV8 50%
=
Contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
Subject: | Re: parts inventory |
It doesn't matter what you system is - as long as you use a system. My
system for organizing parts dies and tools, etc., is to use a series of
interlocking drawer cabinets. Each cabinet is a grid of trays - containing
6 rows by 8 columns (from Canadian Tire). Each drawer can be subdivided
into 1 to 4 parts by using plastic dividers. I label all drawers with the
contents, and group them by function. For instance, in one cabinet the
first column is AN3 hardware. The top drawer contains AN3 bolts (the whole
tray). Going downward I have trays of AN3 washers, AN3 locknuts, AN3
platenuts, etc. Column Two ? ? AN4 hardware. When I take out a #40 drill
bit I will leave the tray cracked open - it ensures that I don't put it back
with the #40s. When I am fitting an AN3 bolt in assembly I will take the
AN3 Washer tray to my work table. After I have selected the required
combination of AN960-10, AN960-10L, An960-10L (small), Tinnerman, etc., I
return the tray to the cabinet. Works like a charm. The amount of time it
takes to inventory your stuff will be repaid through by faster set-up, fewer
errors, less distraction AND BETTER PARTS IDENTIFICATION. You may want to
do it differently - just do it in an organized manner, your own way. Happy
Building ! !
Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop
Finish Kit 85% Complete
RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
> I went to a local photo-processing place and asked them for empty film
cassettes. They gave me a shopping bag full of them<
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
Subject: | Gyros and aerobatics |
>
> Where could one find these valves? Nice looking plane BTW.
>
> Neil
McMaster Carr, I'll look up the number and post it.
Thanks for the compliment.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 229 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
Subject: | Gyros and aerobatics |
> Alex, I wonder if a non-spinning gyro will really last longer
> in an aircraft. I know that the little NavAid eclectic gyro
> bangs the stops a lot more when not powered. There is not
> much mass here and at appears to be different with my heaver
> vacuum gyros. The vibration damage to the bearings might be
> worse when they are static.
Ken, I weight heavily the opinion of the guy who designed the HSI in my
plane (Jim Younkin). I was discussing this topic with him at our forum,
and he said any gyro shop that thinks the gyros do better during
aerobatics while spinning is looking for business. I suspect that there
aren't many planes in existence with switchable vacuum gyros, like mine,
so what data would the shops have?
Regarding vibration damage static vs spinning, I doubt it. Even if the
vibration was severe (+/- 2 g's), it would only create bearing forces
twice those when the plane and gyro are sitting still. Some sort of
rotional excitement of the gyro to cause it to oscillate between stops
in resonance seems the only possible explanation of worse results when
not spinning. This doesn't seem likely in flight, as aerobatics are
actually quite mild movements. The wild movements the gyro sees are
when the spinning gyro tries to find its spin axis when up against a
stop.
I suspect this question cannot be conclusively answered without data,
and it would take a significant project to do so.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 229 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Solid State Gyro's |
From: | Michael Stephan <mstephan(at)shr.net> |
I did some research and found two units. I thought that the xbow unit was
to be marketed for experimental avaition and the price tag was less than 5K.
The Watson unit was more expensive.
http://www.watson-gyro.com/products/ahrs.html
http://www.xbow.com/Products/Inertial_Systems.htm
There is quite a bit of information on the xbow website.
--
Michael Stephan
RV-8 builder
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: Gyros and aerobatics |
Alex,
I think there may be some anecdotal data on this topic. Gyros are shipped
all over the country every day from instrument shops and the manufacturer.
If the normal shipping trauma caused significant damage, I think we would
have some information on it by now. Now, I don't know how many G's a
typical package from UPS or FedEx might experience during shipment, but I
would guess that at least the box would have some history of rapid shifting
of orientation. All of this of course happens to non-spinning gyros. This
is the thought process I have gone through to allow me to forget about a
removable sub-panel for my gyros which will be electric and easily switched
off.
Steve Johnson
RV-8 #80121
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Gyros and aerobatics
>
>
> > Alex, I wonder if a non-spinning gyro will really last longer
> > in an aircraft. I know that the little NavAid eclectic gyro
> > bangs the stops a lot more when not powered. There is not
> > much mass here and at appears to be different with my heaver
> > vacuum gyros. The vibration damage to the bearings might be
> > worse when they are static.
>
> Ken, I weight heavily the opinion of the guy who designed the HSI in my
> plane (Jim Younkin). I was discussing this topic with him at our forum,
> and he said any gyro shop that thinks the gyros do better during
> aerobatics while spinning is looking for business. I suspect that there
> aren't many planes in existence with switchable vacuum gyros, like mine,
> so what data would the shops have?
>
> Regarding vibration damage static vs spinning, I doubt it. Even if the
> vibration was severe (+/- 2 g's), it would only create bearing forces
> twice those when the plane and gyro are sitting still. Some sort of
> rotional excitement of the gyro to cause it to oscillate between stops
> in resonance seems the only possible explanation of worse results when
> not spinning. This doesn't seem likely in flight, as aerobatics are
> actually quite mild movements. The wild movements the gyro sees are
> when the spinning gyro tries to find its spin axis when up against a
> stop.
>
> I suspect this question cannot be conclusively answered without data,
> and it would take a significant project to do so.
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> RV6-A N66AP 229 hours
> www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: Loops and gyros (wasRC Allen) |
Any mechanical gyro will have a problem trying to turn a full 360 deg in the
same axis that it's "axle" is gimballed.
(ie, the Attitude Indicator's gyro spins horizontally about a vertical axis
and thus hits the stops in a loop and the same for the DG in a roll--since the
TC gyro is tilted from the vertical so it can detect both yaw and roll, you'd
have to do one turn of a funky flat spin to get it to tumble).
The US Navy solved this problem in it's Vietnam era jets (A-4 Skyhawk, F-4
Phantom) with the AJB-3(x) series "All Attitude System" in which multiple
gyros fed info to the display head in the panel, which had full motion thru
360 deg in both pitch and roll. However, this system is big, heavy and
expensive--tho they were virtually indestructable. The Navy did not seem
worried that their pilots would lose attitude information when they were in a
flat spin (yaw) : )
Commercial mechanical gyros for GA aircraft are not designed for
aerobatics--simple as that. So, why would a company keep info on failure
rates for something their unit was not designed to handle? Further, as far as
I can tell, the Mean Time to Failure for gyros is not a simple, first-order
function of Time in Service, so that graph is non-linear and virtually
impossible to predict. That there are so many conflicting theories of why
gyros fail, given by people educated in their care and feeding, attests to
this problem. So, if you're going to go and flop around the sky, turn 'em off
or take 'em out--but, you'll still have to relace them, sometime....
Digital AHRS. Parts that move wear out or break sooner than parts that don't
move.
Boyd.
RV-Super 6
Jerry Calvert wrote:
>
> A friend was a contractor who worked on instruments and avionics for Air
> Force. While visiting his facility, he did a demo for me. He spun up a
> gyro out of a T-37 and simulated some airobatics by holding the gyro in his
> hand and moving it through the motions. The loop movement caused the gyro
> to make a very loud knock. He stated that loops are not good on gyros. He
> simulated a barrel roll and there was no knock. I can't remember if the
> roll was to left or right or if direction was important. He says he never
> does loops in his RV6, but does rolls and barrel rolls and a few other
> manuvers.
> >
> > When I bought my RC Allen Attitude gyro, I talked to the woman that
> > makes them. Yep, woman. She explained to me that I could do all the
> > aerobatics I wanted to, just so long as I didn't do a loop.
> > Dave Bristol was right. The adjustable bar isn't the problem with a
> > gyro that doesn't have an 8 degree tilt. The earth and sky don't line up
> on
> > the center of the gauge. That's weird looking at. I bought a new gauge
> just
> > for that reason.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | panamared2(at)brier.net |
Subject: | RVs and Aerobatics (Was Gyros and aerobatics) |
A few comments from one who does Aerobatics in an RV.
My first slow roll in my RV, a real cockpit disaster. Slow roll means you
pull 0 to -1 G. I had loose things in the cockpit, I forgot to switch to
the Aerobatic tank. While inverted, maps, pencils and knee board went
flying, engine sputtered at -1G, engine monitor (instruments) quit working
(loose wire because of -1G attitude) and I am upside down. Very interesting.
Lessons learned
1. Get a parachute. Preflight the parachute before using.
2. After A/C preflight, do an aerobatic preflight (another 20 minutes of
checking) I should do a check of the inverted oil system, but than means
taking off the top and bottom cowl.
A. Remove any items from the baggage area, tool box, extra QT of oil,
etc.
B. Remove all items from my pockets, or zip pockets of flight suit.
C. Secure all items in the cockpit
D. Preflight parachute
E. Put on Parachute, adjust the harness
5. Prior to aerobatics, conduct airborne pre-aerobatic checklist
Fuel Pressure
Oil Pressure
Voltage
Oil Temp
Reset G Meter
Select Aerobatic Tank (check fuel level both tanks)
Ratchet down seat belts
Tighten Shoulder Harness
Secure all loose items (knee board, GPS, Maps, checklists)
Check parachute, locate ripcord
Check to insure canopy is locked, make sure it can be opened in an emergency
Make sure I am flying in an aerobatic approved airspace (can not fly
aerobatics within 5 miles (I think) of an airway,
Insure I can recover from Aerobatic maneuver way above 1500 feet AGL
6. Conduct clearing turns.
7. I fly in the mountains, so I do aerobatics over an emergency landing site.
I do not have any Gyros, but if I did I would remove them. I use my A/C
for cross county and aerobatics. If I had to remove the Gyros every time I
flew aerobatics, then that would definitely reduce the amount of time I
would be flying aerobatics.
As it is now, I start flying with full tanks, I burn down the fuel in the
non aerobatic tank, then I do aerobatics on the aerobatic tank. Lightness
counts. Running out of fuel on the way to or from the aerobatic practice
area is not good form.
I use a National Parachute, it is not comfortable, I do not like to use it
for non aerobatic flight. Doing aerobatics at night (I am not that
good). Under a 6000' ceiling, (I am not that good). When I do not feel
aggressive or I am tired, I don't do aerobatics. After a high G aerobatic
session, I am really beat (tired) I fly directly to the airport and land,
no touch and goes.
Disclaimer: This is what I do, it might not work for you, and it probably
does not include all things recommended by the IAC. I keep an open mind
and I am prepared to learn from the mistakes of others.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bob n' Lu Olds" <oldsfolks(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV's and Aerobatics |
You seem to have forgotten the MOST IMPORTANT item of all !!! Get some aerobatic
instruction with a good instructor !!! It will save MUCH grey hair and elevated
blood pressure ; possibly even prevent making a hole in the ground .
NEVER split S an RV at more than 100 MPH - I did that and came whistling out the
bottom at about 30% above redline !
NOT GOOD !!
Bob Olds , Old n' grey , RV-4 N1191X
Charleston , Arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bob n' Lu Olds" <oldsfolks(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Headset Plugs for TR-720 Handheld Radio |
I desperately need two headset plugs for Communications Specialists TR-720 handheld
airband radio .
Any info appreciated .
Bob Olds , RV-4 , N1191
Charleston,Arkansas
no not archive
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Solid State Gyro's |
From: | Michael Stephan <mstephan(at)shr.net> |
I contacted Crossbow to ask about the price, and I need to correct my
previous post. The Crossbow AHRS400cc which is the cheapest option
available is $7500.
--
Michael Stephan
RV-8 builder
>
> I did some research and found two units. I thought that the xbow unit was
> to be marketed for experimental avaition and the price tag was less than 5K.
> The Watson unit was more expensive.
>
> http://www.watson-gyro.com/products/ahrs.html
> http://www.xbow.com/Products/Inertial_Systems.htm
>
> There is quite a bit of information on the xbow website.
>
>
> --
> Michael Stephan
> RV-8 builder
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dag adamson <dag_adamson(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | To drill or not to drill top forward fuselage panel F-821 |
Hello-
I am finally finishing up the fuselage and am second
guessing drilling the forward top panel F-821 to the
fuselage. I have drilled the flanges that hold the
panel - but have stopped short of drilling the holes
along the longerons. Everything seems to line up OK.
I have designed my panel - but haven't cut it yet and
consequnelty haven't installed the panel equipment. I
am wondering if all this work in here may upset the
alignment of the top panel along the longerons. Let
alone hanging that IO360.
Looking for folks feedback:
Did you drill the top panel before or after you
installed all the gear on the panel and hung the
engine?
-Dag
P.S. I am not going to rivet the top panel until all
the radio and firewall forward is done.
====
*****************
Dag Adamson
617 513 1182
Cambridge, MA
Grand Junction, CO
*****************
http://mailplus.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
Subject: | Re: Gyros and aerobatics |
snips
FWIW, another perspective:
I was a partner in a 200hp Swift for a couple of years. My partner flew airshows
in the plane on a regular basis for almost 10 years. He also used the plane as
a
commuter to get to his airline 'day job'. I learned acro in the plane. I put
around 200 hrs on it, with at least 30 or 40 of them positive g acro like most
people do in RV's. My partner had a LOT more hours doing acro in the plane.
Because it was his commuter as well, it was flown IFR on a regular basis.
Total hours flown: almost 2000
Gyro failures: 0
Pump failures: several
This subject comes up from time to time on this list, & dozens of people have
said that acro kills gyros. However, I can't remember a single person who has
said that they have personally had a gyro failure in a plane used for acro AND
that the plane had never had a prior failure of a dry vacuum pump. Are any of
you out there with that experience?
I don't dispute that acro is harder on gyros than no acro. But I also recognize
that acro is a lot harder on an engine, prop & airframe than no acro. This is a
choice that anyone who performs acro makes and no one seems concerned with
catastrophic failure of their engine or prop. So, does it really make that much
sense to worry so much about the gyros?
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave" <davevon(at)tir.com> |
I'm shopping for a go fast prop for my RV-6 to replace the Hartzell that's
on it (that means I'm selling the Hartzell). Does anyone have any
experience with an Aero Composites prop on a RV? I really don't want to go
to a fixed pitch prop.
Thanks,
Dave
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | Fund Raiser Free Gift Shipping Status... |
Dear Listers,
A couple of people have written asking what the shipping status was of
their free List Contribution Gifts. Seemed like some status was in order
and I thought I detail where we're at...
Flight Bag Requests
-------------------
On 11/20/02 I shipped out the first batch of Flight Bag-Only (FBO) gift
requests. I shipped all FBO gift requests I had received from 11/1 to
11/19 except for 3 (Sorry guys!) - I ran out of my first shipment flight
bags! Andy Gold of the Builder's Bookstore ( http://www.buildersbooks.com
) is supplying me with another batch flight bags which should arrive in
about 2 weeks.
By the way, these are REALLY nice Flight Bags. Extremely well built and
very professional looking. Folds down into a very small size, but will
hold a huge amount of stuff. If you fly, and you've got a lot of stuff,
they you WANT one of these guys. Surf over to the List Contribution page
for details on how to get one of your own!!!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
The Flight Bags have been shipped out US Mail Parcel Post in a large, and I
mean LARGE, padded white plastic envelope. According to the Post Office,
worse case delivery time would be 8 days to destinations on the East Coast,
but indicated it would likely take a lot less time.
Archive CDROM Requests
----------------------
The Archive CDROMs will be mastered and burned on or about December 1 and
should ship out shortly there after. Shipping will be US Mail, Media Rate
in a big padded white envelope. The Archive List data included will be up
to November 30th.
Flight Bag and Archive CDROM Requests
-------------------------------------
These combination orders will ship out when the Archive CDROMs are complete
as described above, likely a little after December 1. The Flight Bag and
the CDROM will be shipped together in the same Giant white padded envelope!
Again, I want to thank Andy Gold of the Builder's Bookstore for providing
these awesome Flight Bags to support the List Fund Raiser. Andy has gone
way beyond the call of duty with regard to his support of the Lists this
year and to show your gratitude I would ask that you have a look at his web
site and great media offerings. You'll find some excellent deals on some
very useful material. http://www.buildersbooks.com
And finally, I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a
Contribution so far this year! Your generosity and kindness is greatly
appreciated. If you've been putting off making a Contribution, now's a
great time show your appreciation in plenty of time to make it onto this
year's List of Contributors AND get your free gift with qualifying
Contribution!!!
List Contribution Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution/
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little
temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety.
Benjamin Franklin
Historical Review of Pennsylvania, 1759
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Lucky Macy" <luckymacy(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Fuselage Kit Updated |
Did Van's ever go back to the RV8 model and "further refine" the fuselage
kit to get it up to the same pre-punched standards as the RV9?
I took some time off from the RV building scene so did't pay too close
attention to these things but I heard that when the 9 kit came out you
could cleco the whole fuselage together right out of the box. Maybe that
was a slight exaggeration but supposedly pretty true. The impact was the
jig didn't have to be as precise/important since the RV9 parts are "self
aligning" for the most part. Is the 8 like that now too?
curious,
lucky
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steve J Hurlbut" <sjhdcl(at)kingston.net> |
Subject: | Re: Fuselage Kit Updated |
I asked Van about that at Airventure 2002. He said there was no plans
to update the RV8 fuse right now.
That was part of my deciding factor in building the 7. The 8 is next
however.
The "add clecoes, shake box, got fuselage" description in my opinion is
a bit optimistic.
Steve
Rv7A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lucky Macy" <luckymacy(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Fuselage Kit Updated
>
> Did Van's ever go back to the RV8 model and "further refine" the fuselage
> kit to get it up to the same pre-punched standards as the RV9?
>
> I took some time off from the RV building scene so did't pay too close
> attention to these things but I heard that when the 9 kit came out you
> could cleco the whole fuselage together right out of the box. Maybe that
> was a slight exaggeration but supposedly pretty true. The impact was the
> jig didn't have to be as precise/important since the RV9 parts are "self
> aligning" for the most part. Is the 8 like that now too?
>
> curious,
> lucky
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
Subject: | Re: Fuselage Kit Updated |
Van has made small improvements though. I understand that he did
make a few small changes in the landing gear box area to address
problems that we earlier builders had. He added powder coating to
the steel parts, etc.
Changing to a prepunched fuselage would require a huge amount of work
though to ensure the parts were speced correctly so the holes would
all line up. It is much easier to move to a prepunched wing than a
prepunched fuselage as something with parallel surfaces is much more
tolerant of the typical stack up of tolerances.
Kevin Horton
>
>I asked Van about that at Airventure 2002. He said there was no plans
>to update the RV8 fuse right now.
>
>That was part of my deciding factor in building the 7. The 8 is next
>however.
>
>The "add clecoes, shake box, got fuselage" description in my opinion is
>a bit optimistic.
>
>Steve
>Rv7A
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Lucky Macy" <luckymacy(at)earthlink.net>
>To: "RV-List Digest Server"
>Subject: RV-List: Fuselage Kit Updated
>
>
>>
>> Did Van's ever go back to the RV8 model and "further refine" the fuselage
>> kit to get it up to the same pre-punched standards as the RV9?
>>
>> I took some time off from the RV building scene so did't pay too close
>> attention to these things but I heard that when the 9 kit came out you
>> could cleco the whole fuselage together right out of the box. Maybe that
>> was a slight exaggeration but supposedly pretty true. The impact was the
>> jig didn't have to be as precise/important since the RV9 parts are "self
>> aligning" for the most part. Is the 8 like that now too?
>>
>> curious,
>> lucky
> >
>>
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (baffles, induction air, oil cooler)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: parts inventory |
>
>It doesn't matter what you system is - as long as you use a system.
I used clearish flat tray like boxes of about 12 compartments each. Some
parts can be stored two in one bin. I put AN3-4 bolts and AN3-14 bolts in
the same bin as they are easy to tell apart. The boxes stack and I put an
icon on the ends.
I gave up tiny drawers with labels years ago. Too many itty bitty labels
to make and squint at and too many 'pull drawer out, nope, push drawer in's.
Bags are okay too. Odd, rarely accessed items...
Inventory the expensive bags and forget the rest.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Loops and gyros (wasRC Allen) |
>
>So, if you're going to go and flop around the sky, turn 'em off
>or take 'em out--but, you'll still have to relace them, sometime....
>
>Digital AHRS.
Who cares if they wear out? It's only money!! For the price of digital
you can buy a bag full of the old fashioned gyros. Buy two sets of rebuilt
ones and rebuild as necessary.
I think I'll try a shutoff valve too.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave" <davevon(at)tir.com> |
Whirl Wind definitely has light weight going for it, but I'm not sure 3
blades is the best setup for efficient cruise with a RV. The reason for
going to 3 blades vs. 2 is usually for ground clearance and/or reduced prop
noise because of lower tip speeds from reduced diameter. A 3 blade can also
reduce the stresses on the crankshaft during aerobatics and in some cases
increase "hang time" because of a lower blade loading for a given diameter.
A Hartzell engineer told me to go with the largest diameter possible for the
highest cruise speed, although I haven't heard of anyone trying different
diameter C/S props of the same make on the same airplane to validate that
claim. His statement was based on the parasitic drag increase of the
fuselage due to the smaller area of increase local flow velocity of the
smaller diameter prop. I'm sure that there would be an optimum diameter
dependent on the percentage of drag from the fuselage relative to the whole
airplane.
Dave
> Give the Whirlwind Prop 150 series
> a look see.
>
> Mauri
> RV8 wings/tanks
> >
> > I'm shopping for a go fast prop for my RV-6 to replace the Hartzell
that's
> > on it (that means I'm selling the Hartzell). Does anyone have any
> > experience with an Aero Composites prop on a RV?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Dave
> > RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Julie Jankowiak" <jjankowiak(at)sbcglobal.net> |
I am hoping to send this email to all members. I am interested in
unfinished RV 6 kits for sale. Not RV 6A. Can you please direct me to a
web site that advertises kits for sale.
Thanks for your help.
Howard Nelson
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of kempthornes
Subject: Re: RV-List: parts inventory
>
>It doesn't matter what you system is - as long as you use a system.
I used clearish flat tray like boxes of about 12 compartments each. Some
parts can be stored two in one bin. I put AN3-4 bolts and AN3-14 bolts in
the same bin as they are easy to tell apart. The boxes stack and I put an
icon on the ends.
I gave up tiny drawers with labels years ago. Too many itty bitty labels
to make and squint at and too many 'pull drawer out, nope, push drawer in's.
Bags are okay too. Odd, rarely accessed items...
Inventory the expensive bags and forget the rest.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> |
Hello all
I thought I would just pass along that I have a King KX155 for sale on ebay
this week. It is a ex helicopter unit that will not drive a speaker, but
would be ideal for an RV. None G/S, but does have a VOR head with it.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=26436&item
=1873013034&rd=1
I have a few other items for sale right now as well, but the 155 is the gem.
Joe Hine
RV4 C-FYTQ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
Hi All,
I just completed the certification classes for MT-Propeller hydraulic and
electric constant speed props. So I am very biased.
Propellers are normally designed to have optimum efficiency at cruise RPM, or
at climb RPM. (My observation.)
During the second week of class, I went to lunch each day with the engineers.
The MT-Propeller blades can be designed to be optimum specifically for what
you want to accomplish; i.e., climb, cruise, top speed, etc.
This blade design is then entered into their normal operation for fabrication
and assembly.
I'll let you know how it works after I have my new MT-Propeller electric CS
prop installed and flying. (The root of the blade on my prop in cruise look
like it is feathered. However, the lift distribution is nearly constant. It
looks a great deal different than the Ivoprop Magnum prop, besides being
white instead of black. :-) )
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV LOM M332A engine Warnke fixed pitch wood prop
MTV-7-C/L175-112 prop arrived yesterday.
Propeller Assembly Fixture - due within two weeks.
Prop Balance Stand - fabrication in process.
FAA Repair Station - request in process.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Chris Woodhouse <chrisw3(at)cox.net> |
RV-list
Subject: | Matched Injectors? |
I once heard someone talk about a process where you monitor the EGT on
all cylinders and swap out the injectors so that you get the same or at
least closer to the same EGT on all cylinders and how this is supposed
to significantly improve fuel economy. Has anyone else heard of this or
done it?
--
Chris Woodhouse
3147 SW 127th St.
Oklahoma City, OK 73170
405-691-5206 (home)
chrisw(at)programmer.net
N35 20.492'
W97 34.342'
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | New vertical stab & rudder (RV-6) |
I am giving serious thought to putting a RV-7 vertical stab and rudder on my
old 1989 RV-6. I was wondering if anyone else has done this? In the almost 14
years of flying my RV-6 the ONE thing I do not really like about it is the lack
of rudder authority in stiff crosswinds. IMO I feel that the fatter fuselage
somewhat lessens the effect of the rudder. My ex hanger partner had an RV-6 with
the
same complaint, he sold it and bought an RV-4 (to fly while building his Harmon
Rocket)and say it is like a different airplane in crosswind handling. It takes
a lot
of the pucker factor out of strong crosswind landings.
Several at the pilots breakfast this morning said the larger surfaces on the RV-7
helps this situation.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
Subject: | Re: Matched Injectors? |
Isn't that the concept behind GAMIjectors?
http://www.gami.com
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (fuselage)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Woodhouse" <chrisw3(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV-List: Matched Injectors?
>
> I once heard someone talk about a process where you monitor the EGT on
> all cylinders and swap out the injectors so that you get the same or at
> least closer to the same EGT on all cylinders and how this is supposed
> to significantly improve fuel economy. Has anyone else heard of this or
> done it?
>
> --
> Chris Woodhouse
> 3147 SW 127th St.
> Oklahoma City, OK 73170
> 405-691-5206 (home)
> chrisw(at)programmer.net
> N35 20.492'
> W97 34.342'
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
Subject: | Matched Injectors? |
Check out www.gami.com
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Woodhouse
Subject: RV-List: Matched Injectors?
I once heard someone talk about a process where you monitor the EGT on
all cylinders and swap out the injectors so that you get the same or at
least closer to the same EGT on all cylinders and how this is supposed
to significantly improve fuel economy. Has anyone else heard of this or
done it?
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | [ Marc Drake ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Marc Drake
Subject: My Two Projects...
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/drakerv@gte.net.11.23.2002/index.html
--------------------------------------------
o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
o Main Photo Share Index:
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave" <davevon(at)tir.com> |
Subject: | Re: New vertical stab & rudder (RV-6) |
>I am giving serious thought to putting a RV-7 vertical stab and rudder on
my
old 1989 RV-6. I was wondering if anyone else has done this? In the almost
14
years of flying my RV-6 the ONE thing I do not really like about it is the
lack
of rudder authority in stiff crosswinds. <
I've been having thoughts of doing something similar on my 6, but with a
little difference. In stead of just using a 7 fin and rudder, I was
thinking of using a 6 fin with a new rudder. The fin would be modified by
eliminating the angle on top and making a taller fiberglass tip. The taller
tip would house the comm antenna (my understanding is that all you would
need is 10" of vertical fiberglass). The rudder would be taller with a
counter balance and wider in chord with heavier skins.
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Cimino" <jcimino(at)echoes.net> |
Subject: | Re: Matched Injectors? |
Check out GAMI...basically if you get your engine well balanced you can run
at peak egt or a little on the lean side of peak, this is where you get the
improved economy. Run the lean test that GAMI suggests. If you are running
a Lycoming, you will probably not find much difference between cylinders and
hence you can run near peak if you like. If you are running a Continental
you will probably need matched injectors. I ran the test on my Lycoming
IO-360-B1E (180hp) twice and there was only about .3 gals. per hour
difference between the cylinders. At 7000ft., 65% power, 100 deg. lean of
peak, I was burning 8.0 gals per hour and still indicating 175 mph.
Jim
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL 75+ Hrs.
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
(570)842-4057
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Woodhouse" <chrisw3(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV-List: Matched Injectors?
>
> I once heard someone talk about a process where you monitor the EGT on
> all cylinders and swap out the injectors so that you get the same or at
> least closer to the same EGT on all cylinders and how this is supposed
> to significantly improve fuel economy. Has anyone else heard of this or
> done it?
>
> --
> Chris Woodhouse
> 3147 SW 127th St.
> Oklahoma City, OK 73170
> 405-691-5206 (home)
> chrisw(at)programmer.net
> N35 20.492'
> W97 34.342'
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
Subject: | Re: New vertical stab & rudder (RV-6) |
>
>I am giving serious thought to putting a RV-7 vertical stab and rudder on my
>old 1989 RV-6. I was wondering if anyone else has done this? In the almost 14
>years of flying my RV-6 the ONE thing I do not really like about it
>is the lack
>of rudder authority in stiff crosswinds. IMO I feel that the fatter fuselage
>somewhat lessens the effect of the rudder. My ex hanger partner had
>an RV-6 with the
>same complaint, he sold it and bought an RV-4 (to fly while building
>his Harmon
>Rocket)and say it is like a different airplane in crosswind
>handling. It takes a lot
>of the pucker factor out of strong crosswind landings.
>Several at the pilots breakfast this morning said the larger
>surfaces on the RV-7
>helps this situation.
>
>Jerry
>
If I understand you properly, in large crosswinds you sometimes find
that you are using full rudder, and wishing that you had even more
rudder available. Or, in other words, you can't generate quite
enough sideslip angle with full rudder to handle the crosswinds you
sometimes encounter. Have I got this correct?
How do the rudder and VS areas of the old and new tails compare? A
bigger rudder will allow you to generate more sideslip angle for the
same rudder input. But, the VS tends to want to keep the nose
pointed into wind, so a bigger VS would mean less sideslip angle for
the same rudder input. If the VS and rudder areas are both increased
you may or may not end up with more sideslip capablity. If you are
really interested in more sideslip capablity, you would want to
increase the rudder area, but keep the VS area the same. Can you
make the -7 rudder work with your VS?
Now, if I have misunderstood your problem, then ignore all this drivel. :)
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (baffles, induction air, oil cooler)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: To drill or not to drill top forward fuselage |
panel F-821
>
>I have drilled the flanges that hold the
>panel - but have stopped short of drilling the holes
>along the longerons.
I don't remember the order in which I did it. Do you also have a 6a slider?
I'd leave the panel till next to last. Last is the canopy plexiglass.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: New vertical stab & rudder (RV-6) |
Kevin Horton wrote:
>
>
>>
>>I am giving serious thought to putting a RV-7 vertical stab and rudder on my
>>old 1989 RV-6. I was wondering if anyone else has done this? In the almost 14
>>years of flying my RV-6 the ONE thing I do not really like about it
>>is the lack
>>of rudder authority in stiff crosswinds. IMO I feel that the fatter fuselage
>>somewhat lessens the effect of the rudder. My ex hanger partner had
>>an RV-6 with the
>>same complaint, he sold it and bought an RV-4 (to fly while building
>>his Harmon
>>Rocket)and say it is like a different airplane in crosswind
>>handling. It takes a lot
>>of the pucker factor out of strong crosswind landings.
>>Several at the pilots breakfast this morning said the larger
>>surfaces on the RV-7
>>helps this situation.
>>
>>Jerry
>>
>
>
> If I understand you properly, in large crosswinds you sometimes find
> that you are using full rudder, and wishing that you had even more
> rudder available. Or, in other words, you can't generate quite
> enough sideslip angle with full rudder to handle the crosswinds you
> sometimes encounter. Have I got this correct?
>
Yes Kevin, you have pretty much got it correct. From what I understand the
larger VS helps dampen some of what people call fishtailing in turbulence.
I have never thought that was a problem in my RV-6, or I am just used to it
and the larger rudder helps with the crosswind capability. I want to talk to
Van about it and get his opinion before I start. There is a reason that the -7
and -9 have larger stabs and rudders. I do understand what you are saying about
a larger VS. I also believe that the rudder is where most of the "larger" comes
from
on the -7 and -9,they also have the counter balanced rudder that I don't have.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dag adamson <dag_adamson(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: To drill or not to drill top forward fuselage panel F-821 |
>I have drilled the flanges that hold the
>panel - but have stopped short of drilling the holes
>along the longerons.
>I don't remember the order in which I did it. Do you
>also have a 6a slider?
I am doing the slider.
Is there anyone out there who drilled the top panel
first and then hung the engine and panel gear?
Thanks again
Dag
http://mailplus.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Dave,
I'm in the same boat, although there are several things I'm after. I have a
deposit on an AeroComposites. I have dedicated a page to this prop upgrade
at www.rv-8.com/Prop.htm and will be posting my results there.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 279 hrs
www.rv-8.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave" <davevon(at)tir.com>
Subject: RV-List: Prop
>
> I'm shopping for a go fast prop for my RV-6 to replace the Hartzell that's
> on it (that means I'm selling the Hartzell). Does anyone have any
> experience with an Aero Composites prop on a RV? I really don't want to
go
> to a fixed pitch prop.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave
> RV-6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave" <davevon(at)tir.com> |
Subject: | New vertical stab & rudder (RV-6) |
>I am giving serious thought to putting a RV-7 vertical stab and rudder on
my old 1989 RV-6. I was wondering if anyone else has done this? In the
almost
14 years of flying my RV-6 the ONE thing I do not really like about it is
the
lack of rudder authority in stiff crosswinds. <
I've been having thoughts of doing something similar on my 6, but with a
little difference. In stead of just using a 7 fin and rudder, I was
thinking of using a 6 fin with a new rudder. The fin would be modified by
eliminating the angle on top and making a taller fiberglass tip. The taller
tip would house the comm antenna (my understanding is that all you would
need is 10" of vertical fiberglass). The rudder would be taller with a
counter balance and wider in chord with heavier skins.
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
Subject: | RV-4 & RV-6A For Sale |
Hello All,
I am back........
I said last summer the pink panther was for sale, but I have been dragging
my feet about selling it. Well it is time. I have to have an IFR airplane,
( I am still looking for an IFR -4 w/CS)
1994 RV-4 IO-320
~775 TT
~600 SMOH
Bernie Warnke prop
VFR
Val 760
Flybuddy Loran
Narco Xponder w/alt
Aeroflash nav/strobes
A great airplane! I have owned it for over 5 years and flown it over
trouble free hours 500 hours
RV-6A O-360
~500 TT
~500 Engine Snew
Prince prop
IFR
KX-55 w/GS
KLX-135 GPS/Comm
KT-76 w/alt
Garmin 195
Nav/strobes
2 axis elect trim
manual flaps
This airplane belongs to the brother of the WWII navy pilot who mentored me
flying warbirds for years. I helped him buy this airplane and I said I
would help him sell it. If I can't find a nice IFR -4, I may buy this
myself, but I am struggling with the whole idea sitting to the side, and a
nosewheel.... This too is a very nice airplane.
I am working on digital pics of both. Great to be back!
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
Subject: | Re: New vertical stab & rudder (RV-6) |
Maybe Gary LeGare would post a picture of Casper from the side... Casper
is a modified RV-6 that lives in California somewhere, but came up to
the Langley fly-in this year (where I saw it). I seem to recall it has
an enlarged tail, in the manner you describe below.
Personally, I thought the taller tail looked out-of-place on the
airframe, but that's just me. I may be biased by the umpteen hundred
RV's i'd seen with stock tails before seeing Gary's.
-Rob Prior
RV7 Empennage (stock)
Dave wrote:
>
>>I am giving serious thought to putting a RV-7 vertical stab and rudder on
>
> my old 1989 RV-6. I was wondering if anyone else has done this? In the
> almost
> 14 years of flying my RV-6 the ONE thing I do not really like about it is
> the
> lack of rudder authority in stiff crosswinds. <
>
> I've been having thoughts of doing something similar on my 6, but with a
> little difference. In stead of just using a 7 fin and rudder, I was
> thinking of using a 6 fin with a new rudder. The fin would be modified by
> eliminating the angle on top and making a taller fiberglass tip. The taller
> tip would house the comm antenna (my understanding is that all you would
> need is 10" of vertical fiberglass). The rudder would be taller with a
> counter balance and wider in chord with heavier skins.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Pol;ished Sensenich Spinner |
The spinning process used in manufacturing the Sensenich spinner creates tooling
marks on the spinner. They appear as rings around the spinner. I have polished
the spinner to a mirror finish, but the marks are still visible. The spinner
is smooth and the marks cannot be felt, but are visible.
Can these marks be removed with more work, or is this normal?
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
RV6 N296JC(res)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Polished Sensenich Spinner |
>The spinning process used in manufacturing the Sensenich spinner creates
>tooling marks on the spinner. They appear as rings around the spinner. I
>have polished the spinner to a mirror finish, but the marks are still
>visible. The spinner is smooth and the marks cannot be felt, but are
>visible.
>
>Can these marks be removed with more work, or is this normal?
>
>Jerry Calvert
>Edmond Ok
>RV6 N296JC(res)
Jerry,
I don't have the Sensenich metal spinner, but have owned a few of the
Tru-Turn aluminum spinners on my RC toys. They spin these out of a solid
chunk of alloy and they can be polished to a mirror finish. The grooves are
likely due to the cutter being moved a bit too fast. When you're
manufacturing stuff for resale, you don't want to spend too much time on it,
so that may be the reason for the somewhat coarse finish. It's certainly
fine for a good looking, serviceable installation, but not for a show plane.
The surface can be polished out with a coarser polishing compound or
rouge. It all depends on how much time you want to spend on it. Or, have
it chrome plated and be done with it. Time or money, your choice! Have fun.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Sensenich with Van's spinner.
MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE*
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: Polished Sensenich Spinner |
Brian,
Just returned home from getting coarser compound. The compounds I used
would easily get the mirror finish, just wouldn't take off enough to clear
the turn lines. They are microscopic and can't be felt, but are visable.
The compound I have now will take out minor imperfections, so if this
doesn't do, I will live with the results.
Thanks for the comments.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
RV6 N296JC(res)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Polished Sensenich Spinner
>
>
> >The spinning process used in manufacturing the Sensenich spinner creates
> >tooling marks on the spinner. They appear as rings around the spinner.
I
> >have polished the spinner to a mirror finish, but the marks are still
> >visible. The spinner is smooth and the marks cannot be felt, but are
> >visible.
> >
> >Can these marks be removed with more work, or is this normal?
> >
> >Jerry Calvert
> >Edmond Ok
> >RV6 N296JC(res)
>
>
> Jerry,
>
> I don't have the Sensenich metal spinner, but have owned a few of the
> Tru-Turn aluminum spinners on my RC toys. They spin these out of a solid
> chunk of alloy and they can be polished to a mirror finish. The grooves
are
> likely due to the cutter being moved a bit too fast. When you're
> manufacturing stuff for resale, you don't want to spend too much time on
it,
> so that may be the reason for the somewhat coarse finish. It's certainly
> fine for a good looking, serviceable installation, but not for a show
plane.
> The surface can be polished out with a coarser polishing compound or
> rouge. It all depends on how much time you want to spend on it. Or, have
> it chrome plated and be done with it. Time or money, your choice! Have
fun.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> Sensenich with Van's spinner.
>
> MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE*
> http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | emrath <emrath(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: To drill or not to drill top forward fuselage panel F-821 |
I drilled the forward top skin and panel, fit the canopy already. I
plan on mounting the enging and finishing the panel with equipment and
wiring concurrently. Another local builder has done his -6A slider this
way, with no apparent issues. Seems to be working out fine, but riveting
on that top skin is going to be a challenge.
In fact, I've mounting the canopy, but have yet to mount the tail or set
the wing angle of incidence and drilled the rear spar bolt hole. I
wanted to get the canopy cut and mounted before the weather turned cold.
The other stuff I hope to get done this winter.
Marty in Brentwood, TN
From: dag adamson <dag_adamson(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: To drill or not to drill top forward fuselage
panel F-821
>I have drilled the flanges that hold the
>panel - but have stopped short of drilling the holes
>along the longerons.
>I don't remember the order in which I did it. Do you
>also have a 6a slider?
I am doing the slider.
Is there anyone out there who drilled the top panel
first and then hung the engine and panel gear?
Thanks again
Dag
http://mailplus.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ned Thomas" <315(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | RV7 Quck Build Fuselage & Wings for Sale |
Long story but I ended up with a 6 and a 7 kit this past week. I am selling
the 7. No work has been done on the kit. Let me know if you are seriously
intersted.
Ned
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)comcast.net> |
A one hour review of the archives, led me to new subjects that I will
need to master shortly. But there are still lingering doubts about how
peel ply is used on fiberglass lay ups to get a smooth finish.
I believe that you apply it dry, on top of the final fiberglass lay-up.
You smooth it down with a tamper, brush or fingers. It soaks up excess
resin. You remove the peel ply after the glass sets up, to a smooth
finish.
Is that correct?
Barry Pote RV9a
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Craig Warner" <cwarner(at)twcny.rr.com> |
Yes, the peel ply will allow you to remove excess resin and after the resin
has cured removing the peel ply will also remove any amine blush that has
occured and will actually make the finish sanding easier. Peel ply is a good
idea.You have the right idea as to use.
Craig Warner - started verticle stab RV6
----- Original Message -----
From: "barry pote" <barrypote(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: peel ply
>
> A one hour review of the archives, led me to new subjects that I will
> need to master shortly. But there are still lingering doubts about how
> peel ply is used on fiberglass lay ups to get a smooth finish.
>
> I believe that you apply it dry, on top of the final fiberglass lay-up.
> You smooth it down with a tamper, brush or fingers. It soaks up excess
> resin. You remove the peel ply after the glass sets up, to a smooth
> finish.
>
> Is that correct?
>
> Barry Pote RV9a
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
Subject: | Re: To drill or not to drill top forward fuselage panel |
F-821
That should work out fine. I fitted and drilled the fwd. top skin (including
the longerons) and then removed it while I did all the detail work between
the panel and firewall (engine controls, tach cable, rudder pedals, fuel and
vent lines, battery box, etc,., there is lots to do there). When all this
was finally done, I removed the inst. panel and riveted the top skin on.
No big issues if you keep the need for bucking bar access in mind when you
are running wires etc. near where rivets are going to go. My instrument
panel is removable with a dozen #8 screws for this purpose. Will get the
wings on and all those spar bolts & nuts in place before I put the panel
back in.
Jim Oke
Winnipeg, MB
RV-6A (slider - moving parts to airport at last...)
----- Original Message -----
From: "emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Re: To drill or not to drill top forward fuselage panel
F-821
>
> I drilled the forward top skin and panel, fit the canopy already. I
> plan on mounting the enging and finishing the panel with equipment and
> wiring concurrently. Another local builder has done his -6A slider this
> way, with no apparent issues. Seems to be working out fine, but riveting
> on that top skin is going to be a challenge.
> In fact, I've mounting the canopy, but have yet to mount the tail or set
> the wing angle of incidence and drilled the rear spar bolt hole. I
> wanted to get the canopy cut and mounted before the weather turned cold.
> The other stuff I hope to get done this winter.
>
> Marty in Brentwood, TN
>
> From: dag adamson <dag_adamson(at)yahoo.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Re: To drill or not to drill top forward fuselage
> panel F-821
>
>
> >I have drilled the flanges that hold the
> >panel - but have stopped short of drilling the holes
> >along the longerons.
>
> >I don't remember the order in which I did it. Do you
> >also have a 6a slider?
>
> I am doing the slider.
>
> Is there anyone out there who drilled the top panel
> first and then hung the engine and panel gear?
>
> Thanks again
> Dag
>
> http://mailplus.yahoo.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
Subject: | Polished Sensenich Spinner |
Hi Brian,
I have the Sensenich Metal Spinner, and have worked around polished and
chrome spinners for awhile. Here's my observations.
>Jerry,
From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
You got it, Barry. Just make sure you have a little excess resin on the top
layer before you put on the peel ply, as it will soak up alot of resin.
Also, you don't have to buy the brand "Peel Ply" . It is simply Dacron
fabric. You can get it from any fabric store. It is commonly used as
liners for coats.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "barry pote" <barrypote(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: peel ply
>
> A one hour review of the archives, led me to new subjects that I will
> need to master shortly. But there are still lingering doubts about how
> peel ply is used on fiberglass lay ups to get a smooth finish.
>
> I believe that you apply it dry, on top of the final fiberglass lay-up.
> You smooth it down with a tamper, brush or fingers. It soaks up excess
> resin. You remove the peel ply after the glass sets up, to a smooth
> finish.
>
> Is that correct?
>
> Barry Pote RV9a
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: To drill or not to drill top forward fuselage panel F-821 |
Further to Jim Oke's response, before you finally install the nose-skin,
take lots of close-up photos of every view you can get of the area below it.
It sure helps if later you have to find out where a certain wire is routed!
I don't know if the design has changed since I built my 6-A, but make sure
that the routing of the fuel-tank vent plumbing that per plans goes right
over the area where the longeron rivets go is clear! I formed the pipes so
that they sit ~1"" below that line to allow bucking-bar
access.----------Cheers!!-------Henry
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave Ford" <dford(at)michweb.net> |
Just wondering what kind of spacing is best between the aluminum baffling and the
cowl for best fit of baffling material.
Dave Ford
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright(at)adelphia.net> |
Subject: | Re: baffling & cowl |
A finger's width is fine. Big finger, little finger, it doesn't really
matter. This is an area where there is a wide range of acceptable spacing.
Also, there is a fair amount on this subject in the archives.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Ford" <dford(at)michweb.net>
Subject: RV-List: baffling & cowl
>
> Just wondering what kind of spacing is best between the aluminum baffling
and the cowl for best fit of baffling material.
>
> Dave Ford
> RV6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Baffling and Cowl |
I have used 1/4" to 1/2" on my RV-4 , O-320 & wood prop.
That keeps the rubber from folding over to allow air to flow past .
You can use a Sharpie pen laid parallel on the inside cowl to mark the baffle
and get about 1/4" clearance.
RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
Charleston, Arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Don Mack" <don(at)dmack.net> |
Subject: | Re: baffling & cowl |
Plans call for 3/8" to 1/2".
Don Mack
don(at)dmack.net www.dmack.net
>
> Just wondering what kind of spacing is best between the aluminum baffling
and the cowl for best fit of baffling material.
>
> Dave Ford
> RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ned Thomas" <315(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: baffling & cowl |
I just saw this discussed on teh video. He said Van's recommends 1/2" of
space between the aluminum baffle and the cowl. He made a 1/2" spacer and
put it on a marker and reached in thru oil access door and front air inlets
to marke the aluminum for cutting..
Ned
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: baffling & cowl
>
> A finger's width is fine. Big finger, little finger, it doesn't really
> matter. This is an area where there is a wide range of acceptable
spacing.
>
> Also, there is a fair amount on this subject in the archives.
>
> KB
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dave Ford" <dford(at)michweb.net>
> To: "rv list"
> Subject: RV-List: baffling & cowl
>
>
> >
> > Just wondering what kind of spacing is best between the aluminum
baffling
> and the cowl for best fit of baffling material.
> >
> > Dave Ford
> > RV6
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
Barry:
If I do not have a lot of excess resin in my final glass layup, I will apply
the peel ply just like it is another layer of glass using a bursh and resin
to lay it down. It makes a heaver part but there is a lot less finishing.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,215 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: barry pote <barrypote(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: peel ply
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 18:30:37 -0500
A one hour review of the archives, led me to new subjects that I will
need to master shortly. But there are still lingering doubts about how
peel ply is used on fiberglass lay ups to get a smooth finish.
I believe that you apply it dry, on top of the final fiberglass lay-up.
You smooth it down with a tamper, brush or fingers. It soaks up excess
resin. You remove the peel ply after the glass sets up, to a smooth
finish.
Is that correct?
Barry Pote RV9a
The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE*
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Well,
I got all four jugs off yesterday and there was some definate washboarding
and taper at the top of 2 and 4, the low ones.
Also noticed that you couldn't see the channels of the chrome up there
either... sooooo, I am very happy about my decision to pull them all out of
service.
Come on UPS. Lets get the show on the road.
Anybody ever heard of a thing called roller burnishing. One is suppose to do
this to the new rocker bushings, but I can't seem to find a good place to by
one. Apparently the roller burnishing tools are all made on the east coast
or in India, where ever the heck that is.
Would like to buy one local to So Cal. but the internet did not provide a
source as of yet.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
Subject: | Re: Baffling and Cowl |
> I have used 1/4" to 1/2" on my RV-4 , O-320 & wood prop.
> That keeps the rubber from folding over to allow air to flow
> past . You can use a Sharpie pen laid parallel on the inside
> cowl to mark the baffle
> and get about 1/4" clearance.
A trick that worked for me to get a nice uniform 1/2" was, once the
baffles were trimmed enough for the cowl to go on, using blobs of clay.
Put the clay blobs on the baffles and put the cowl on. When you remove
the cowl, it will be clear how much to trim.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 229 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
Gary,
I'm curious why peel ply makes the part heavier? I thought the purpose
was to remove the excess resin from the layup?
Jeff Point
RV-6 fiberglassing canopy, using peel ply by the mile...
Milwaukee WI
>Barry:
>
>If I do not have a lot of excess resin in my final glass layup, I will apply
>the peel ply just like it is another layer of glass using a bursh and resin
>to lay it down. It makes a heaver part but there is a lot less finishing.
>
>Gary A. Sobek
>"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
>1,215 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
>http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
Peel ply is NOT left on. It makes a heaver part as there is more EPOXY in
the layup filling in the weave. This does not make for a light composite
aircraft when done on an entire compostie airplane but on a non structural
part like the layups we do on an RV, the added weight is not much.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,215 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: peel ply
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 23:16:21 -0600
Gary,
I'm curious why peel ply makes the part heavier? I thought the purpose
was to remove the excess resin from the layup?
Jeff Point
RV-6 fiberglassing canopy, using peel ply by the mile...
Milwaukee WI
>Barry:
>
>If I do not have a lot of excess resin in my final glass layup, I will
apply
>the peel ply just like it is another layer of glass using a bursh and
resin
>to lay it down. It makes a heaver part but there is a lot less finishing.
>
>Gary A. Sobek
>"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
>1,215 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
>http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
>
>
>
>
The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE*
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | All New List FAQs! |
Dear Listers,
I got to looking at the Email List FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions) today
and realized that they where miserably out of date. I spent a wad of time
today completely revising them and adding in documentation on all of the
many new features such as the List Browse and Photoshare. Many of the
little-known features are documented in there now, too, so even if you're a
seasoned List veteran, you might want to give it a read. Never know what
you might discover.
At the bottom of this message in the Trailer you will find a new link item
called "List FAQ" with a URL for this specific List. Just click on it and
print it out or read it online.
Don't forget that November is the List Fund Raiser month! The "2002 List
of Contributors" is just days away and I know you'll want to make sure your
name is on it!! Please make your Contribution today to support the
continued operation of these List Services!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Lucky Macy" <luckymacy(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | elevator counterbalance interference |
My elevator halves don't fit perfectly. The left elevator's counter
balance
hits the HS skin at the tip of the counterbalance (as if the counterbalance
was 1/8 inch too long) and the right elevator's counter balance is not
parallel with the HS along its counterbalance. It also seems as if the
right counterbalance was about 1/8 inch too long and it tapers in towards
the stab at the tip as if the right elevator's outer hinge is closer to the
HS than the root hinge.
I took the elevators off and double checked that the rod end bearings are
13/16th's out on the center of the bolt hole per plans. I doublechecked
that the hinges on the HS were installed correctly. I can sight down the
hinge brackets from one end of the HS to the other and they seem to still
be in perfect alignment.
So something is off a tad somewhere and I'm wondering if it would be OK
just to turn
the rod end bearings a turn or 2 in or out to make the required minor
adjustments or should I be grinding off the counterbalance and HS to make
things work out. What's the acceptable thing to do?
(un)Lucky
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Larry Hawkins <lhawkins(at)giant.com> |
Subject: | Headset Plugs for TR-720 Handheld Radio |
Try Chief Avionics
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob n' Lu Olds [mailto:oldsfolks(at)aol.com]
Subject: RV-List: Headset Plugs for TR-720 Handheld Radio
I desperately need two headset plugs for Communications Specialists TR-720
handheld airband radio .
Any info appreciated .
Bob Olds , RV-4 , N1191
Charleston,Arkansas
no not archive
RE: RV-List: Headset Plugs for TR-720 Handheld Radio
Try Chief Avionics
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob n' Lu Olds [<A HREF"mailto:oldsfolks(at)aol.com">mailto:oldsfolks(at)aol.com]
Subject: RV-List: Headset Plugs for TR-720 Handheld Radio
-- RV-List message posted by: Bob n' Lu Olds oldsfolks(at)aol.com
I desperately need two headset plugs for Communications Specialists TR-720 handheld
airband radio .
Any info appreciated .
Bob Olds , RV-4 , N1191
Charleston,Arkansas
no not archive
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | P M Condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
Subject: | Pol;ished Sensenich Spinner |
I had to resort to powder coating to make the finish acceptable. I tried
nickel(electroless) and chroming, but the shops all said that the
Sensenich spinner surface was to rough. The powder coat process made
this look vern nice, cost 65 dollars. I did mine in white to match the
airplane. Hundreds of colors to choose from. BTW, there were 10
different whites....stand outside in sunlight to pick your colors from
the swatch folder.....
From: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV-List: Pol;ished Sensenich Spinner
The spinning process used in manufacturing the Sensenich spinner creates
tooling marks on the spinner. They
appear as rings around the spinner. I have polished the spinner to a
mirror finish, but the marks are still visible.
The spinner is smooth and the marks cannot be felt, but are visible.
Can these marks be removed with more work, or is this normal?
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
RV6 N296JC(res)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)vondane.com> |
"vansairforce"
Subject: | Overnight hangar in Lincoln, NE... |
I have relatives in Lincoln, NE that I am thinking of visiting and wanted to see
if there was a hangar I could keep my RV overnight some weekend...
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A ~ 76 hours
www.vondane.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: elevator counterbalance interference |
>
>My elevator halves don't fit perfectly.
Make rod end adjustments. Make a note in your TO DO log of what you
did. Make final adjustment when tuning controls, along with a few hundred
other details, before getting signed off.
In other words, get on with it.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Marc Guay" <marcrv6a(at)hotmail.com> |
Day/Night VFR 1998 RV-6A for Sale. US$80K.
Total Time Airframe and prop (since new): 200 hours
Total Time Engine (since major overhaul): 200 hours
Engine: Lycoming IO-360 A1B (200HP)
Prop: Hartzell Constant speed
Full gyro panel with electronic tach, gmeter, JPI engine scanner, Mode C
transponder, MX11 Com, Recording intercom, AmeriKing ELT, full dual control
including dual axix electric trim, electric flap, Whelen strobes and more.
For information and pictures please contact
Marc Guay
email Marc_Guay(at)hotmail.com
The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE*
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com> |
Hey guys,
I am at that point where I am starting to seriously consisder my instrument
panel. I have looked in several books but have not seen the subject of the
physical mounting of the radios discussed in any detail. What is the
preferred method of mounting the radios? Is .063 angle riveted to the rear
of the panel and screwed to the trays adequate? Are the trays long enough
that there should be some type of rear support? If rear support is needed,
how is it arranged? If you support it off the structure in the rear
somewhere, how do you remove the panel for maintenance? Does anyone have
any pictures on their websites? Does anyone have any JPEGs that they can
email? Is there a website out there that gives detailed mounting
instructions? I am building a RV-8A if that makes any difference.
Vince Welch
Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Marc Guay" <marcrv6a(at)hotmail.com> |
Day/Night VFR 1998 RV-6A for Sale. US$80K.
Total Time Airframe and prop (since new): 200 hours
Total Time Engine (since major overhaul): 200 hours
Engine: Lycoming IO-360 A1B (200HP)
Prop: Hartzell Constant speed
Full gyro panel with electronic tach, gmeter, JPI engine scanner, Mode C
transponder, MX11 Com, Recording intercom, AmeriKing ELT, full dual control
including dual axix electric trim, electric flap, Whelen strobes and more.
For information and pictures please contact
Marc Guay
email Marc_Guay(at)hotmail.com
STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE*
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Baffling and Cowl |
I used 1/2" spacing. That is the highest figure given in the plans. I
selected that clearance, not knowing what my engine's "wet dog shake" would
be on start-up. It will vary depending on resiliency of the engine mounts,
and the mass of the prop.
I used a piece of 1/4" thk x 1/2" wide x~ 1 1/2" lg scrap aluminum to make a
scriber. I rounded an end of it and 1/2" down I drilled a .032 hole (PC
board drill ) and inserted the shank of another (blunt) drill sharpened to a
point secured with a drop of Super-glue. Works great when inserted through
the cooling snouts, scribing the line on the baffle, sliding along the cowl.
Cheers!!------Henry Hore.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Karen and Robert Brown" <bkbrown(at)wmca.net> |
Subject: | static system, strobe power supply |
I am building an RV7A-QB...I was wondering about how/where to route the static
line from the back to the front...the plans are pretty unclear forward of the
baggage area bulkhead. What are others doing?? The other forward bulkheads are
not predrilled for anything and I am leery of drilling a hole where I may regret
it later...
Also, I am installing a 3-light Whelen strobe system and was wondering about location
of the power supply. And are others running the strobe wiring to the tail
strobe inside conduit?
Bob Brown
RV7A - Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "I-Blackler, Wayne R" <wayne.blackler(at)boeing.com> |
rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: | RE: AeroElectric-List: Radio Mounting |
Vince and list,
http://www.rv-8.com/Panel.htm is a pretty good one I believe. Picture is
shown about half way down the page.
I'll be doing mine similarly, with the addition of aluminium sheet to tie
the racks together on each side (probably just not shown in this particular
picture). I checked out the back of a few Avionics panel shops at OSH, and
they did it likewise.
Might be worth a calculation or two to see what load is involved, and more
importantly, what loads you envisage your panel components to experience for
the flying you plan on doing. If you plan on aerobatics (not sure from your
email), you will want to consider aft mounting, and perhaps what you take
with you on an aerobatic flight if you plan on doing so anyway..
RV-8.com seems to be a pretty good website all round in my opinion. Great
quality workmanship with equally great close-up high quality pictures with
explanations. Tells a thousand words...
Cheers
Wayne Blackler
IO-360 Long EZ, 95% done
Seattle, USA
-----Original Message-----
From: Vincent Welch [mailto:welchvincent(at)hotmail.com]
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Radio Mounting
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Vincent Welch"
Hey guys,
I am at that point where I am starting to seriously consisder my instrument
panel. I have looked in several books but have not seen the subject of the
physical mounting of the radios discussed in any detail. What is the
preferred method of mounting the radios? Is .063 angle riveted to the rear
of the panel and screwed to the trays adequate? Are the trays long enough
that there should be some type of rear support? If rear support is needed,
how is it arranged? If you support it off the structure in the rear
somewhere, how do you remove the panel for maintenance? Does anyone have
any pictures on their websites? Does anyone have any JPEGs that they can
email? Is there a website out there that gives detailed mounting
instructions? I am building a RV-8A if that makes any difference.
Vince Welch
Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/aeroelectric-list
http://www.matronics.com/FAQs/AeroElectric-List.FAQ.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Francis Malczynski" <ebbfmm(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | static system, strobe power supply |
On my RV6 I had made clearance between the corner of my F605 and the side
skin by grinding off part of the corner to route my static line. I filled
the area around it with RTV to prevent chaffing. On F604 I drilled holes and
put in nylon bushings to route through that area.
I mounted my 3 light Whelan power supply on the back of my battery case. I
installed plate nuts on the inside of the battery case and screwed the PS to
it. Do you need a tail strobe if you are installing a 3 light system? I
assume by 3 light you mean a red/green position light, strobe and white
position light on each wingtip.
Fran Malczynski
RV6 - N594EF (flight testing)
Olcott, NY
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Karen and Robert
Brown
Subject: RV-List: static system, strobe power supply
I am building an RV7A-QB...I was wondering about how/where to route the
static line from the back to the front...the plans are pretty unclear
forward of the baggage area bulkhead. What are others doing?? The other
forward bulkheads are not predrilled for anything and I am leery of drilling
a hole where I may regret it later...
Also, I am installing a 3-light Whelen strobe system and was wondering about
location of the power supply. And are others running the strobe wiring to
the tail strobe inside conduit?
Bob Brown
RV7A - Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
Subject: | Re: static system, strobe power supply |
I ran it through each bulkhead, under the floor pans, then through a
rectangular hole I cut where the 2 spars meet. All my wires and static
passed through this hole.
I've seen alot of Whelen power supplies mounted in the tail cone behind the
elevator bellrank. Wire doesn't need to be going through conduit, just be
sure it is secured and out of the way of any control tubes!
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karen and Robert Brown" <bkbrown(at)wmca.net>
Subject: RV-List: static system, strobe power supply
>
> I am building an RV7A-QB...I was wondering about how/where to route the
static line from the back to the front...the plans are pretty unclear
forward of the baggage area bulkhead. What are others doing?? The other
forward bulkheads are not predrilled for anything and I am leery of drilling
a hole where I may regret it later...
>
> Also, I am installing a 3-light Whelen strobe system and was wondering
about location of the power supply. And are others running the strobe
wiring to the tail strobe inside conduit?
>
> Bob Brown
> RV7A - Fuselage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
Subject: | Re: Radio Mounting |
Vince, See:
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing/panel2.htm
This is how I mounted my stack. By tying all of the units together, you get
the support of all the units mounted to the panel. Worked great. No
support was needed
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Radio Mounting
>
>
> Hey guys,
>
> I am at that point where I am starting to seriously consisder my
instrument
> panel. I have looked in several books but have not seen the subject of
the
> physical mounting of the radios discussed in any detail. What is the
> preferred method of mounting the radios? Is .063 angle riveted to the
rear
> of the panel and screwed to the trays adequate? Are the trays long enough
> that there should be some type of rear support? If rear support is
needed,
> how is it arranged? If you support it off the structure in the rear
> somewhere, how do you remove the panel for maintenance? Does anyone have
> any pictures on their websites? Does anyone have any JPEGs that they can
> email? Is there a website out there that gives detailed mounting
> instructions? I am building a RV-8A if that makes any difference.
>
> Vince Welch
>
>
> Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.
> http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail
>
>
> _->
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Polishing Spinner |
In order to make the rings disappear, you need to start with something like
400 or 600 grit on a block. Then start all over again with the polishing.
Block sanding will allow you to take the tops off the ridges. Then once you
have finished the 600 wet, you can go to a coarse polishing compound, then
finer, then. . .
Remember that as you go finer, all you are doing is removing the scratches
that the previous level of coarseness left. If you are working something
and you can not remove an imperfection, you need to go COARSER, not finer.
Learned this all by trial and error. I've ended up with many shiny pieces
of metal with the original blemish still intact.
Don Mei
p.s. you can buy a 3/4 hp polishing wheel on harbor freight for like $60.
The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE*
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Everett" <llevt(at)speedfactory.com> |
Is it ok to make the H.S. 2x1x1/8 spacers out of 2024-T4 instead of 2024-T3? The
plans call for T3 but all I have in my scrap heap is 4T.
Thanks, Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
Subject: | Gear Leg Fairing - Piano Hinge |
Listers: I am finishing the gear leg fairings. A question not covered in
the archives by my search. How do you know where to place the piano hinge
on the rear of the fairing. DWG C3 shows a cross section of the leg. It
appears to show the big hinge too close to the rear - leaving a gap. I am
trying to locate the hinge fairly forward so that the fairings would be
"pulled together" like a pressure recovery system. Tapered, of course. I
don't want it too far forward as the stress of the pressure may induce
cracking. How have others found the sweet spot??
Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop
Finish Kit 85% Complete
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Vertical Card Compass? |
Does anybody make a vertical card compass that fits in
a standard 3" instrument hole? All I found at Aircraft
Spruce were 2" cards to mount someplace other than the
panel.
Dan DeNeal
trying to fill an empty spot
http://mailplus.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: Polishing Spinner |
Another local builder(Ned Thomas) shared some past experience on the topic
and I tried it. I am about done buffing and the spinner looks like chrome
and the lines are almost non existent. I went with automotive paint store
3M 400, 600, 1500 grits and changed sanding directions between grits. Took
close to 5 hours of wet sanding, but results are excellent. The buffing
goes much faster and produces that mirror shine.
A lot of work, but since I am building a slow-build kit....I must continue
to do things the slow way.
Thanks for the input,
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
RV6 N296JC(res)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Polishing Spinner
>
> In order to make the rings disappear, you need to start with something
like
> 400 or 600 grit on a block. Then start all over again with the polishing.
> Block sanding will allow you to take the tops off the ridges. Then once
you
> have finished the 600 wet, you can go to a coarse polishing compound, then
> finer, then. . .
>
> Remember that as you go finer, all you are doing is removing the scratches
> that the previous level of coarseness left. If you are working something
> and you can not remove an imperfection, you need to go COARSER, not finer.
>
> Learned this all by trial and error. I've ended up with many shiny pieces
> of metal with the original blemish still intact.
>
> Don Mei
> p.s. you can buy a 3/4 hp polishing wheel on harbor freight for like $60.
>
>
> The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE*
> http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Gear Leg Fairing - Piano Hinge |
>
>Listers: I am finishing the gear leg fairings. A question not covered in
>the archives by my search. How do you know where to place the piano hinge
>on the rear of the fairing. DWG C3 shows a cross section of the leg. It
>appears to show the big hinge too close to the rear - leaving a gap. I am
>trying to locate the hinge fairly forward so that the fairings would be
>"pulled together" like a pressure recovery system. Tapered, of course. I
>don't want it too far forward as the stress of the pressure may induce
>cracking. How have others found the sweet spot??
>Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop
> Finish Kit 85% Complete
I tried to achieve the "pressure recovery" shape as you stated and did so by
squeezing the fairing uniformly with clamps along the gap. I wanted a
slight preload on the hingepin so they would be snug to insert, but not
impossibly so. Just a few pounds of hand squeeze is enough to do the job.
You certainly don't want to have to smash the thing together just to get the
pins inserted, as that would likely lead to rivets pulling through over
time. If it feels OK, it probably is.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
3yrs of RV grins
MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE*
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: Polishing Spinner(correction) |
Correction on the grits that I listed. Should have been 3M 400, 800, 1500.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
RV6 N296JC(res)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Polishing Spinner
>
> Another local builder(Ned Thomas) shared some past experience on the
topic
> and I tried it. I am about done buffing and the spinner looks like chrome
> and the lines are almost non existent. I went with automotive paint store
> 3M 400, 600, 1500 grits and changed sanding directions between grits.
Took
> close to 5 hours of wet sanding, but results are excellent. The buffing
> goes much faster and produces that mirror shine.
>
> A lot of work, but since I am building a slow-build kit....I must continue
> to do things the slow way.
>
> Thanks for the input,
> Jerry Calvert
> Edmond Ok
> RV6 N296JC(res)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Polishing Spinner
>
>
> >
> > In order to make the rings disappear, you need to start with something
> like
> > 400 or 600 grit on a block. Then start all over again with the
polishing.
> > Block sanding will allow you to take the tops off the ridges. Then once
> you
> > have finished the 600 wet, you can go to a coarse polishing compound,
then
> > finer, then. . .
> >
> > Remember that as you go finer, all you are doing is removing the
scratches
> > that the previous level of coarseness left. If you are working
something
> > and you can not remove an imperfection, you need to go COARSER, not
finer.
> >
> > Learned this all by trial and error. I've ended up with many shiny
pieces
> > of metal with the original blemish still intact.
> >
> > Don Mei
> > p.s. you can buy a 3/4 hp polishing wheel on harbor freight for like
$60.
> >
> >
> > The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE*
> > http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
Subject: | static system, strobe power supply |
Bob,
Here's where I mounted the strobe power supply:
http://my.execpc.com/~cjh/fuse-1.html
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
http://my.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
-----Original Message-----
I am installing a 3-light Whelen strobe system and was wondering about
location of the power supply. And are others running the strobe wiring to
the tail strobe inside conduit?
---
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Gear leg fairing - piano hinge |
I clamped the trailing edges together and slipped the piano hinge in place
just very lightly pushed into tha taper . You're right - you want the
trailing edges together when pinned in place.
RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
Charleston, Arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
Subject: | Re: Polishing proceedure |
A re-listing of a recent list email, -edited and re-titled
A little about polishing:
The trick about polishing most materials is to start with a sandpaper grit
that is not quite as course as the surface you want to polish.
The idea is to scratch off the unwanted surface roughness while avoiding
making scratches that the next finer grit cannot easily remove.
The term "wet and dry" refers to a type of sandpaper that can be immersed in
water and or other liquids, lacquer thinners, solvents, etc.while working
with it.
The water et. al. serves both as a lubricant and keeps the grit from loading
up
Sandpaper grits start at something like 40 grit forty sharp crushed rock
bits per square inch! and go down to a fineness of at least about 2000
grit. The numbers refer to grit particles per square inch. (don't try to
imagine the texture of number one grit) :-)!
After a series of ever finer sandpaper grits we move on to polishing
compounds. Again there are a series of compound grits that will eventually
bring up a shine as bright or brighter than polished nickel chrome. Most of
these grits are carried in a lubricating past or liquid that is designed to
provide the desired results. Often the liquids in the specifically named
polishes, i.e..Silvo and Brasso, have chemicals in them that are mildly
corrosive to the metal. These are meant to work at the molecular level and
thusly aid in obtaining that sought after very bright shine.
Jewelers rouge is one among the finer group of compounds that comes in a
stick form. It and most polishing compounds in stick form can be applied to
a buffing wheel or used on a soft cloth with some elbow grease. Different
materials i.e. stainless steel, brass, aluminum, plastics or what have you
will require slow to fast buffing wheel speeds and different pressures while
buffing.
For instance starting with a flat side of a piece of rough sand cast
aluminum fitting:
A double bastard file to cut down the roughness.
A finer file to cut away the roughness left by the double bastard file.
220 sandpaper to cut away the remaining fine file marks.
320 sandpaper to cut away the 220...
400 grit, then 600 grit and so on past 2000 grit and onto the polishing
compounds.
Depending upon the material at hand, steel, brass, copper, plastics etc. and
the
desired finish you can sometimes skip one or more steps.
Often people impatiently skip a step or steps and end up working harder and
longer than actually needed.
lessons form the boyhood years that by now probably are outdated a bit.
The sparkle of sunlight off those varnished brass hull fittings for the boat
sure made
me proud though.
This is stuff that most of you know, but, just in case some don't.
Jim in Kelowna
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
Subject: | static system, strobe power supply |
Hi Bob,
I'm jealous of your kit! Anyway, I ran all my static lines, wiring, etc..
along and under the longeron, with a hole drilled through the bulkheads with
snap bushings in place. I did this on both sides, and it really makes it
easy. The staic line comes out of the deck rails right in my panel ready to
be hooked up. Same with the wiring. I installed the ELT remote right in
the deck rail, and ran the wire from there under the 605 bulkhead and down
the electric flap arm and over to the ELT which I have mounted behind the
pax seat. I've been able to hide all my wires, etc.. under the deck rails.
Hope this helps,
Stein Bruch
RV6, Minneapolis,
Flying.
Brown"
I am building an RV7A-QB...I was wondering about how/where to route the
static line from the back to the front...the plans are pretty unclear
forward of the baggage area bulkhead. What are others doing?? The other
forward bulkheads are not predrilled for anything and I am leery of drilling
a hole where I may regret it later...
Also, I am installing a 3-light Whelen strobe system and was wondering about
location of the power supply. And are others running the strobe wiring to
the tail strobe inside conduit?
Bob Brown
RV7A - Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randy Garrett" <rgarrett7(at)attbi.com> |
Subject: | wiring handheld radio into intercomm |
I would like to wire my handheld radio into the intercomm system so that I
have a 2nd radio. The intercomm is a Flightcom 403 from Van's and the
handheld is a Japan Radio JHP-520. The problem is that there is no wiring
information with the handheld. I was able to figure out most of the wiring
for the handheld by reverse engineering the headset adapter. The problem
comes with the push-to-talk. The headset adapter for the handheld assumes,
reasonably enough, that you have a detachable PTT switch. In this
arrangement, PTT switch connects or disconnects the mike from the radio. In
other words, if you just plugged the mike into the handheld without the PTT
switch, the radio would try to transmit all the time. This doesn't really
work for an intercomm situation because you want to be able to talk over the
intercomm through the mike all the time, but you only want to trigger the
handheld when you push the PTT switch. I probably haven't explained that
very well.
Anyway, what I am looking for is how to wire the mike that goes into the
handheld so that there is a PTT line as well as the mike audio input. I
seem to have the audio input working, but the radio stays in transmit mode
all the time. How do I trigger the transmit using a PTT line?
Thanks!
Randy Garrett
RV-6A -- 41 hours TT
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Dear Listers,
There are only a few days left until the November List of Contributors. I
thought I'd take another opportunity to pass along some of the really nice
things people have been saying recently about the Lists and how much they
mean to them.
If you receive value from the Lists in the form of ideas, assistance,
comradery, moral support, inspiration, or just plain 'ol good
entertainment, then won't take a moment to make a Contribution to support
the continued operation and upgrade of them?
Secure List Contribution Site: http://www.matronics.com/contribution
What does the List mean to you? Here's what some of your fellow
contributing List members have said...
------------------------- What Listers Are Saying -------------------------
Great service for aviation types like me.
Larry H
Best investment I've made.
Harley B
I've been on this list since around 1996 and used it to
help me finish my RV-6A three years ago. I'm still here
because I still learn from it and use it to help others
like me who may be where nobody else is building a RV.
Thanks for your service to our community. It's appreciated.
Jim S
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and other sordid subjects.
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Gene L
Great service!
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Very handy list to have, a good place for a beginner to
get great answers from those who already experienced it.
...sure enjoy reading it.
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...valuable service!
Chris & Indira K
This is the better than any morning paper - the best and
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I enjoy all of the ideas, suggestions and humor that comes
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The new [digest] format is good.
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The list continues to be a great resource of information
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Jeff O
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
Subject: | Re: Vertical Card Compass? |
Don't know about a 3" one, but you can mount the 2" ones in a hole. If you
already a have a 3" hole cut, you could make an adapter to mount the 2" one
inside.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan DeNeal" <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Vertical Card Compass?
>
> Does anybody make a vertical card compass that fits in
> a standard 3" instrument hole? All I found at Aircraft
> Spruce were 2" cards to mount someplace other than the
> panel.
>
> Dan DeNeal
> trying to fill an empty spot
>
> http://mailplus.yahoo.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
Subject: | Re: wiring handheld radio into intercomm |
Not sure about your installation there, sounds a little confusing. But, the
way a "normal" PTT works is you simply tie one of the pins of the the
barrel jack on the mic audio plug to the barrel ground on the jack and put a
switch between. Does that make sense?
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Garrett" <rgarrett7(at)attbi.com>
Subject: RV-List: wiring handheld radio into intercomm
>
> I would like to wire my handheld radio into the intercomm system so that I
> have a 2nd radio. The intercomm is a Flightcom 403 from Van's and the
> handheld is a Japan Radio JHP-520. The problem is that there is no
wiring
> information with the handheld. I was able to figure out most of the
wiring
> for the handheld by reverse engineering the headset adapter. The problem
> comes with the push-to-talk. The headset adapter for the handheld
assumes,
> reasonably enough, that you have a detachable PTT switch. In this
> arrangement, PTT switch connects or disconnects the mike from the radio.
In
> other words, if you just plugged the mike into the handheld without the
PTT
> switch, the radio would try to transmit all the time. This doesn't really
> work for an intercomm situation because you want to be able to talk over
the
> intercomm through the mike all the time, but you only want to trigger the
> handheld when you push the PTT switch. I probably haven't explained that
> very well.
>
> Anyway, what I am looking for is how to wire the mike that goes into the
> handheld so that there is a PTT line as well as the mike audio input. I
> seem to have the audio input working, but the radio stays in transmit mode
> all the time. How do I trigger the transmit using a PTT line?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Randy Garrett
> RV-6A -- 41 hours TT
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | RE: Throttle/Prop Co-ordination |
List:
Can you tell me the proper sequence to reduce power from idle settings with a
constant speed prop. Do you pull the prop back to idle first or the power
back to idle first, etc????
Len Leggette RV-8A
N901LL (res)
Greensboro, N.C.
12 hours !!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
Subject: | Re: RE: Throttle/Prop Co-ordination |
Hi Len,
The recommended procedures for handling the prop settings that I learned
many years ago are:
Takeoff - max RPM
First power reduction (or any power reduction) - reduce manifold
pressure first, then prop. (This is to avoid excessive cylinder
pressures by reducing RPM with full or high throttle settings.)
For landing preparation - max RPM setting in case of wave off and
go-around.
Shutdown - no reason to change prop setting from max RPM when shutting
down. Throttle to idle and mixture to idle cutoff.
Hope this answers your questions.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
-6A FWF
Lenleg(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> List:
>
> Can you tell me the proper sequence to reduce power from idle settings with a
> constant speed prop. Do you pull the prop back to idle first or the power
> back to idle first, etc????
>
> Len Leggette RV-8A
> N901LL (res)
> Greensboro, N.C.
> 12 hours !!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Krhooper(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: RE: Throttle/Prop Co-ordination |
Reduce with throttle first, increasewith prop first
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | RE: Throttle/Prop Co-ordination |
When you pull the throttle back to idle, the constant speed
propeller itself changes the blade angle back into fine pitch
position automatically, so power back into idle first, then
prop lever back into high RPM (take-off) position.
Michael Muehlbauer
MT-Propeller Entwicklung GmbH
> -----Ursprungliche Nachricht-----
> Von: Lenleg(at)aol.com [SMTP:Lenleg(at)aol.com]
> Gesendet am: Dienstag, 26. November 2002 15:15
> An: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Betreff: RV-List: RE: Throttle/Prop Co-ordination
>
>
> List:
>
> Can you tell me the proper sequence to reduce power from idle settings with a
> constant speed prop. Do you pull the prop back to idle first or the power
> back to idle first, etc????
>
> Len Leggette RV-8A
> N901LL (res)
> Greensboro, N.C.
> 12 hours !!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: H.S. Spacers |
Yep, it's ok.
>From: "Larry Everett" <llevt(at)speedfactory.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: H.S. Spacers
>Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 21:10:38 -0500
>
>
>Is it ok to make the H.S. 2x1x1/8 spacers out of 2024-T4 instead of
>2024-T3? The plans call for T3 but all I have in my scrap heap is 4T.
>
>Thanks, Larry
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Allen <fliier(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Polishing Sensenich Spinner |
I took my Sensenich spinner to a metal polish shop and they did it for less than
$50. It looks like chrome.
John Allen
RV6A
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: Polishing Sensenich Spinner |
Have heard that there are places that can do it for $50 to $60. This is a
very good option if available. I easily spent $40 for sand paper, buffs,
and compound. I plan on polishing some other parts too, so I bought the
supplies.
I don't know if the pros can buff out the manufacturing rings with the
commercial equipment, but my little buffer wouldn't. Spent mucho time
sanding, but results are the smooth chrome mirror look which was what I was
wanting.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
RV6 N296JC(res)
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Allen" <fliier(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Polishing Sensenich Spinner
>
>
> I took my Sensenich spinner to a metal polish shop and they did it for
less than $50. It looks like chrome.
>
> John Allen
>
> RV6A
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Static system / Piper pitot probe question |
From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Guys, is anyone successfully using a Piper pitot/static mast on an RV-8/A with
good results for the static system? I have this setup and am not flying yet but
have heard a few builders say they had to switch to the static ports on the
aft fuse to get correct readings. I'm thinking it would be easier to do it now
instead of waiting until I'm painted and flying to add the static ports....
And on a related note, are you folks having good success with the flush static
ports sold by Cleveland Tools or do I need the less-sexy but functional-and-cheap
protruding pop rivet sold by Vans to get accurate readings?
Thanks as always for the endless wisdom...
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D sanding fiberglass and lovin' that good ol' itchy feelin'...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard Fogerson" <rickf(at)velocitus.net> |
Subject: | Naca vent in place of cowl snout |
I would like to eliminate the engine air snout on the bottom of the cowl. The
engine I have ordered from aerosport power will have fuel injection with the air
intake mounted in the horizontal position. Is there any reason a NACA vent
lined up with the F.I. on the lower front of the cowl would not adequately supply
air for the engine. What size, 2 inch or larger? Maybe a course screen
to keep out bugs, etc. I plan to change oil at 25 hour intervals and operate
only from paved runways so I don't consider an air filter as all that necessary.
Thanks for your thoughts,
Rick Fogerson
RV3 fuselage
Boise, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard Fogerson" <rickf(at)velocitus.net> |
Subject: | Tail wheel bronze thrust washer source |
Does anyone know where to get a bronze thrust washer. The RV 3 plans call for
a 1/2 inch ID thrust washer on top of the tail wheel yoke where it mounts to the
tail spring. Van's doesn't have them and doesn't know where to get them????
Rick Fogerson
RV3 fuselage
Boise, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Chris <chrisw3(at)cox.net> |
RV-list
I have been reading a lot of messages lately about what I consider
luxury items some of which I would never consider but all the talk about
certain ones has got me questioning my reasoning for not wanting some
and wanting others. So I am going to list a few of these "luxury" items
and would like everyone's input on why they plan on putting any
particular item in their plane and not another. I guess a lot of it
comes down to what you want to do with your plane but I am still curious
in other peoples thought process on these items.
Basic IFR panel.
Full IFR panel.
Redundant IFR Panel.
Constant Speed Prop.
"FULL" engine instrumentation EGT CHT(on all cylinders) CarbT OAT . . .
. .
Panel mount moving map GPS
1 2 or 3 axis Autopilot.
--
Chris Woodhouse
3147 SW 127th St.
Oklahoma City, OK 73170
405-691-5206 (home)
chrisw(at)programmer.net
N35 20.492'
W97 34.342'
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Naca vent in place of cowl snout |
Richard:
It's not so much junk ingested on take-offs and landings, although that
has to be considered,- its
what comes in, in flight! During the past Summer there were days that my 6-A
was plastered with mashed butterflies, moths, dragon-flies, other bugs ,you
name it, and although I haven't removed the snout (yet) to fully inspect and
clean the filter element, looking in from the front I could see the odd
insect mashed in the filter element mesh. I know of a case where a RV pilot
found a dead bird in there! Not a happy thought if that had gone into the
engine!!!! A filter is a must!!
Cheers!------Henry Hore--RV6-A, C-GELS
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson(at)mcleodusa.net> |
Subject: | Re: Tail wheel bronze thrust washer source |
Richard Fogerson wrote:
>
> Does anyone know where to get a bronze thrust washer. The RV 3 plans call for
a 1/2 inch ID thrust washer on top of the tail wheel yoke where it mounts to
the tail spring. Van's doesn't have them and doesn't know where to get them????
>
> Rick Fogerson
> RV3 fuselage
> Boise, ID
>
Try a bearing shop. Dont mention airplane. Just tell them the size and they will
probably have it. Also go to McMaster-Carr and see what they have..
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
Subject: | Re: Tail wheel bronze thrust washer source |
Hello Richard,
One of the local industrial suppliers in my town is Acklands Granger. Their
catalog is 1760 pages thick. On page 970 they list Boston Gear
http://www.bostongear.com/ "STEEL" thrust washers in various sizes. There
are 5 different 1/2" ID. T.W.s of various dimentions on the page. An email
to either of them might get you on the right track. Roller and ball thrust
bearings seem to be replacing the thrust washers these days.
I think that Eagle Hardware or some similar Hardware chain outlet might have
them in in their tilt out racks.
You can get a machine shop to make one out of oilite (cintered bronze
impregnated with lubricant). A friend with a lathe would be an asset in this
case..
Make a call to a machine shop, they might have a supplier to provide what
you need.
A machine shop could make a half a dozen in the time it takes to set up to
make them.
Good hunting,
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Fogerson" <rickf(at)velocitus.net>
Subject: RV-List: Tail wheel bronze thrust washer source
>
> Does anyone know where to get a bronze thrust washer. The RV 3 plans call
for a 1/2 inch ID thrust washer on top of the tail wheel yoke where it
mounts to the tail spring. Van's doesn't have them and doesn't know where
to get them????
>
> Rick Fogerson
> RV3 fuselage
> Boise, ID
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson(at)mcleodusa.net> |
Subject: | Re: Polishing Sensenich Spinner |
Jerry Calvert wrote:
>
> Have heard that there are places that can do it for $50 to $60. This is a
> very good option if available. I easily spent $40 for sand paper, buffs,
> and compound. I plan on polishing some other parts too, so I bought the
> supplies.
>
> I don't know if the pros can buff out the manufacturing rings with the
> commercial equipment, but my little buffer wouldn't. Spent mucho time
> sanding, but results are the smooth chrome mirror look which was what I was
> wanting.
>
> Jerry Calvert
> Edmond Ok
> RV6 N296JC(res)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Allen" <fliier(at)yahoo.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Polishing Sensenich Spinner
>
> >
> >
> > I took my Sensenich spinner to a metal polish shop and they did it for
> less than $50. It looks like chrome.
> >
> > John Allen
> >
> > RV6A
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> >
> >
>
In My Pitts spinner, I took out the spinning rings with a wood rasp and a
coarse auto body file. I rasped across the rings until they were gone.
I layed it down with dome up and just started filing away. This removes the
high spots. This was 29 years ago but as I remember, it took a morning to get
them all worked out. Then I took an orbital sander and started going all over
it until it looked like it was finely etched, which it was. ----cleaned with
laquer thinner, primed and painted it. It is still like it was the day it was
painted.
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard Bibb" <richard.bibb(at)verizon.net> |
Subject: | Re: luxury items |
My opinions inserted below
> Basic IFR panel. - whatever floats your boat but these are not great IFR
platforms. I would like a wing leveler autopilot with a turn coordinator
for those "oops I'm stuck on top and need a way to get down" scenarios.
> Full IFR panel. see above.
> Redundant IFR Panel. - how are you going to carry this much stuff in an RV
I have no idea.
> Constant Speed Prop - if you have the bucks and the engine for it this is
the best solution to the prop question.
> "FULL" engine instrumentation EGT CHT(on all cylinders) - Full EGT on all
cylinders is a must with an injected engine if you want to lean it without
running the risk of burning up a valve. It is overkill for a carburated
engine INHO.
CarbT OAT . . .OAT is nice for measuring TAS. Carb Temp is overkill.
Lycomings are not very prone to carburator ice and you should not need a
guage to detect it.
> . .
> Panel mount moving map GPS - the ultimate in situatoinal awareness but a
"panel mounted" portable is a heck of a lot more cost effective and just as
good for VFR. IFR certified GPS is great for use in IFR envirnoment but
IMHO RVs are best as VFR platforms.
> 1 2 or 3 axis Autopilot. - winge leveler would be nice for Cross Country
and to have as emergency escape if caught on top.
Opinions are mine alone and are based on 160 hours in an RV-4 VFR with a
fair amount of Cross Country time some over 1,000 miles. Also, 300 hours of
Mooney time most in IFR cross country environment with three axis autopilot
and IFR GPS. Other will feel differnetly and I'm not here to debate just
add my opinion.
Richard Bibb
Mooney N212WD
T-6G N3518G
RV-4 N144KT (in rebuild - ready to mount the wings)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Naca vent in place of cowl snout |
It is certainly possible, Glasairs have been using a large NACA scoop as
an induction intake for a long time. My understanding is that they are
considered to be higher drag than a scoop. If you like I could measure
the one on my neighbor's Glasair cowl and give you the dimensions.
Jeff Point
RV-6 still sanding/filling/etc canopy. I don't know how anyone builds
an entire airplane out of this crap.
Milwaukee WI
>I would like to eliminate the engine air snout on the bottom of the cowl. The
engine I have ordered from aerosport power will have fuel injection with the
air intake mounted in the horizontal position. Is there any reason a NACA vent
lined up with the F.I. on the lower front of the cowl would not adequately supply
air for the engine. What size, 2 inch or larger? Maybe a course screen
to keep out bugs, etc. I plan to change oil at 25 hour intervals and operate
only from paved runways so I don't consider an air filter as all that necessary.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: luxury items |
In a message dated 11/26/2002 1:19:51 PM Pacific Standard Time,
chrisw3(at)cox.net writes:
>
> I have been reading a lot of messages lately about what I consider
> luxury items some of which I would never consider but all the talk about
> certain ones has got me questioning my reasoning for not wanting some
> and wanting others. So I am going to list a few of these "luxury" items
> and would like everyone's input on why they plan on putting any
> particular item in their plane and not another. I guess a lot of it
> comes down to what you want to do with your plane but I am still curious
> in other peoples thought process on these items.
>
> Basic IFR panel.
> Full IFR panel.
> Redundant IFR Panel.
> Constant Speed Prop.
> "FULL" engine instrumentation EGT CHT(on all cylinders) CarbT OAT . . .
> . .
> Panel mount moving map GPS
> 1 2 or 3 axis Autopilot.
>
>
Some of this stuff can be considered luxury items but a few items on your
list are necessity's
1.Constant Speed Prop .....this is a good thing to have especially if you
have some horsepower to work with.
2."FULL" engine instrumentation EGT CHT(on all cylinders) "A Must" It is so
easy to destroy cylinders without it.
3. Panel mount moving map GPS...If you ever have used one you would never use
anything else.
This is my opinion and your all intitled to it
Tim Barnes
Meangreen RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
Subject: | Re: luxury items |
I agree. I don't think full EGT/CHT is a luxury. It really helps determine
potential problems, and makes engine problem diagnosis much easier. The
cost delta more than outweighs the benefit. Carb temp? Scrap it. Good IFR
training will let you know if you are going to have carb ice. I would stick
with the minimum to get you through the clouds. As mentioned before, this
isn't the best IFR ship, but it can get you out of a cloud layer (or into
one) pretty well. I would go with the following for a basic IFR package:
Basic VFR instruments plus:
Turn corridinator and gyros
VOR/LOC/GS Head
One Nav/COM with GS
Clock/Timer (has to be installed to be legal)
Optional IFR options to consider: (Items that would be real nice, but not a
necessity for occasional IFR flight)
Additional Nav/Com
Additional VOR head
Audio panel w/Marker Beacon
Wing leveler/single axis (navaid, etc)
ADF (Just kidding, seeing if you are paying attention)
Pitot Heat
You can use your handheld or panel mount GPS for DME, so skip that $2000
option.
Next level IFR that would be really, really cool, but unnecessary IMHO
unless you are made of money.
Panel mount IFR GPS/COMM (ie. Garmin 430/530) Slaved to external CDI
Dual Axis autopilot coupled to GPS for flying holding patterns and
approaches
DME
HSI Coupled to VOR and GPS
Just my opinions, and you are all entitled to them...
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
Subject: | Re: luxury items |
Chris:
A lot of the stuff on your list I probably couldn't afford even if I wanted it,
but since I don't know your financial pain threashold I'll ignore that in my
answers and assume cost isn't a problem.
> Basic IFR panel.
> Full IFR panel.
> Redundant IFR Panel.
None because (a) I can't afford them and (b) I don't plan to fly IFR and (c) I
hate looking at all that stuff if I don't have a use for it (to say nothing of
carrying the extra weight). I enjoy IFR flying, but I don't think it's wise on
a single engine, at least not around where I mostly fly. (For you F-16
drivers, the bang seat counts as a second engine, right?).
> Constant Speed Prop.
Probably. I've flown RVs with FP props (wood and metal) and the performance is
still great, but I'm developing the opinion that a CS prop would be better for
aerobatics and formation, both of which I plan to do a lot of. And it's pretty
good bang for the buck if you get a good deal on a non-certified prop (whoops,
there I go mentioning money).
> "FULL" engine instrumentation EGT CHT(on all cylinders) CarbT OAT . . .
Probably not, although this would be the next most likely thing on your list
for me, after a CS prop. I've never flown a piston airplane that had all that
stuff, so maybe I just don't know what I'm missing. CHT on all cylinders would
be nice during the initial fly-off hours, in case there was a cooling problem.
> Panel mount moving map GPS
Definitely not. I look out the window and read maps, and there's not a lot of
November 18, 2002 - November 27, 2002
RV-Archive.digest.vol-nv