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RV-Archive.digest.vol-oc
July 23, 2003 - August 06, 2003

http://www.mcp.com.au/xcom760/features/features.html lucky >From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: Re: RV-List: Microair 760 Transceiver >Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 07:32:42 -0600 > > >Neil... > >The 760 does indeed have a built in intercom, but it is a "hot mic" not a >VOX intercom, and in an RV that would not be good... You would have >install >and use a button just to talk on the intercom, or you would be forced to >listen to the ambient sounds of the cockpit all the time... > >I have a 760 in my -8A, and I also have a PS Engineering PM3000 Stereo >intercom... > >-Bill VonDane >RV-8A >www.vondane.com >www.creativair.com >www.epanelbuilder.com > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Neil Henderson" <neil.mo51(at)btopenworld.com> >To: >Subject: RV-List: Microair 760 Transceiver > > >Listers > >I'm just wiring in a Microair 760 transceiver and am puzzled why I should >need a separate intercom. The unit appears to have an inbuilt intercom, is >this not adequate or am I missing something. > >Neil Henderson RV9-A Aylesbury UK > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com>
Subject: Van's FAB filter bypass kit
Date: Jul 23, 2003
Does anyone have info on the air filter bypass kit that Van mentions on his web site? Without bothering them by phone I didn't see anything on his web site that gave details. Anybody have info? John ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 23, 2003
From: Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca>
Subject: Re: Microair 760 Transceiver
lucky macy wrote: > For those yet to order their radio and want something like the Microair 760, > I've been looking at a seemingly similar but *better* > functional/performaning radio called the XCOM 760 (they provide a direct > comparison chart against the Microair model as well as others). From the XCom website: "All things going well, the Intercom will ship by the end of February and the XCOM VHF Radio will ship by the end of May, this is of course subject to any last minute delays which we hope dont eventuate." No updates on the website to indicate that they're shipping, so i'd guess they aren't. I'd be happy to see someone refute that, though. It looks like a great radio. -Rob P rv7 "at" b4.ca ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Van's FAB filter bypass kit
Date: Jul 23, 2003
you call 'em up and speak to them personally and tell them which engine you have and they will send you one at no cost other than shipping. >From: "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: RV-List: Van's FAB filter bypass kit >Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 11:27:26 -0600 > > >Does anyone have info on the air filter bypass kit that Van mentions on his >web site? Without bothering them by phone I didn't see anything on his web >site that gave details. Anybody have info? > >John > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 23, 2003
From: bruno <rv4(at)videotron.ca>
Subject: RE-NACA Ducts
OK, this one has really got me scooped. Assuming you want air to come in through the duct, wouldn't you want it in a high pressure location? Now, if you want to use the duct as an air exhaust, I agree a low pressure area makes sense. What am I missing? -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit) Ottawa, Canada http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/ ----------------------------------------------- Hello Kevin Ok Kevin,you got me on that one,I must have been sleeping during that part of the engineering course LOL. Bruno ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 23, 2003
From: Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Van's FAB filter bypass kit
I just installed this last night on my air box. It consists of a steel plate which functions as a "trap door" on the bottom of the air box. The door covers up a cutout which you make in the bottom of the box, and it is held closed by a small magnet. A piece of airseal fabric is used as a hinge. When the filter becomes clogged, the suction in the air box overcomes the magnet and the door opens, allowing air to enter from inside the cowl and bypass the filter. I am a little concerned about the sealing of the door to the box, but other than that it looks like a good system. Took about an hour to install (not including getting the air box off the plane.) Jeff Point RV-6 panel and wiring Milwaukee WI John wrote: > >Does anyone have info on the air filter bypass kit that Van mentions on his >web site? Without bothering them by phone I didn't see anything on his web >site that gave details. Anybody have info? > >John > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 23, 2003
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: Van's FAB filter bypass kit
The door can be made to seal with some silicone or fuel tank sealant. Im sure you know the drill, mask off one part apply the sealant close the door and let cure. Remove tape and you have a perfect custom fit. This will also prevent the door from rattling due to vibration. > >I just installed this last night on my air box. It consists of a steel >plate which functions as a "trap door" on the bottom of the air box. > The door covers up a cutout which you make in the bottom of the box, >and it is held closed by a small magnet. A piece of airseal fabric is >used as a hinge. When the filter becomes clogged, the suction in the >air box overcomes the magnet and the door opens, allowing air to enter >from inside the cowl and bypass the filter. I am a little concerned >about the sealing of the door to the box, but other than that it looks >like a good system. Took about an hour to install (not including >getting the air box off the plane.) > >Jeff Point >RV-6 panel and wiring >Milwaukee WI > >John wrote: > >> >>Does anyone have info on the air filter bypass kit that Van mentions on his >>web site? Without bothering them by phone I didn't see anything on his web >>site that gave details. Anybody have info? >> >>John >> >> >> >> > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "rpmiller" <rpmiller(at)1usa.net>
Subject: back riveting with the long avery set, good, bad, indifferent?
Date: Jul 23, 2003
I bought one of those long slightly angled back rivet sets for back riveting around rib flanges. I have been practicing on 2 pieces of .025 with dimples and -3.5 rivets. My results so far have been mediocre. The shop head is always off to one side, not a full blown cleat but definitely inferior results to what I get with a bucking bar or a regular, (straight,) back riveting set. Does someone who has used this set successfully have any tips? I'm using both hands on the gun and set, I'm visuallizing the rivet. Also if you didn't have good results I'd like to hear from you to. thanks ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Lenleg(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 23, 2003
Subject: Re: Van's FAB filter bypass kit
Does anyone have info on the air filter bypass kit that Van mentions on his web site? Without bothering them by phone I didn't see anything on his web site that gave details. Anybody have info? John I have the kit .... haven't put it on yet. It came out because of the inlet getting clogged with snow thus causing engine stoppage. Len Leggette RV-8A N901LL Greensboro, N.C. 106 hours !! Race # 87 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Don Mack" <don(at)dmack.net>
Subject: Van's FAB filter bypass kit
Date: Jul 23, 2003
I have three pictures of the installation at http://www.dmack.net/map_engine7.htm Does anyone have info on the air filter bypass kit that Van mentions on his web site? Without bothering them by phone I didn't see anything on his web site that gave details. Anybody have info? John ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 23, 2003
From: kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: AC rated switches for DC (was:Electrical question)
> >The AC/DC switch specs. discusion never came to a helpful end. Search the archive for rate-of-rise you get one really great hit. Basically, many switches are marked for only one voltage and type such as 250VAC They are acceptable for millions of other voltages but just not marked due to lack of space. Archive article says that Microswitch rated certain switches for a resistive load as : 115 VAC - 15A but for 115 VDC - 0.75A !! However if the voltage is less such as 28 VDC then rate at 20A! ! At 12VDC I would conclude even greater rating. Good article by a great guru. K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne RV6-a N7HK flying! PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil(at)petrasoft.net>
Subject: Re: Van's FAB filter bypass kit
Date: Jul 23, 2003
I have the one for the AFP fuel injection vertical mount FAB. I'ts a rubber hinge a couple of pieces of galvanized steel and a REALLY strong magnet. It looks like it will be really simple and there are no bolts, pins or other type stuff that could get loose and go into the engine. Godspeed, Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Canopy http://www.myrv7.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> Subject: RV-List: Van's FAB filter bypass kit > > Does anyone have info on the air filter bypass kit that Van mentions on his > web site? Without bothering them by phone I didn't see anything on his web > site that gave details. Anybody have info? > > John > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net>
Subject: Re: Firewall forward kit.
Date: Jul 23, 2003
RE: Firewall Forward Kit Dana, I have been gathering some info on the FWF and have developed the following list of possible things to eliminate: GAS-4 Gascolator and its doubler VA-161 (there has been discussion on the list about this device is ineffective and not needed and I tend to agree seeing how it fits into the overall fuel line system) 60A Alternator w/boss mnt. Instead I want the ES ALT 35A kit and an external voltage regulator. The voltage regulator is LR3C-14 from B&C that comes bundled with their over voltage monitor. FAB-360. For some reason I received this with the finish kit. Wiring harness WH 6/7/9 kit. I think I'll get this type stuff from B&C and John Stark PC 680 Install K Battery Mount. I think I will build my own like Dan Checkaway did ( or I think he did ) I may use dual Panasonic LC-RD1217P batteries instead of the PC 680. Larry in Indiana, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 Working on Finish Kit Aviation in itself is not inherently dangerous. But ..... is terribly unforgiving of any carelessness, incapacity or neglect. ..Author unknown ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com> Subject: RV-List: Firewall forward kit. > > I've checked the archives but would like some more up to date opinions. The > firewall forward kit for a fixed pitch (CS crank with a plug) O360 is a > little over 3 grand. Is it a deal? What would you leave out and provide on > your own? Would you order it again looking back? > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 23, 2003
From: terence.gannon(at)telus.net
Subject: Re: back riveting with the long avery set, good, bad, indifferent?
RP (?) -- This is one of these issues that there is DEFINITELY two schools of thought; those that figure that you are completely insane ;-) NOT to backrivet the top skin first using the backrivet set, and those that figure that it just doesn't make that much of a difference. I found that with the backrivet set that the skin MIGHT be a little smoother (and it might not), but the flange was definitely not as tight against the skin as compared to rivets set in the conventional way. And it's pretty easy to have the set get away from you and prang the flange with the backrivet set. After a couple of ribs with the backrivet set, I abandoned it in favour of conventional set and bucking bar, and I'm very happy with the results. Just to prove my credentials as a contrarian, ;-), I also put the bottom skin on first...I'm also happy with the way that worked out as well, particularly when it comes to the aft spar details that you have to attend to after the first skin is on, but before the second one. Hope this helps... Terry in Calgary RV-6 S/N 24414 "Wings" Quoting rpmiller : > > I bought one of those long slightly angled back rivet sets for back riveting > around rib flanges. I have been practicing on 2 pieces of .025 with dimples > and -3.5 rivets. My results so far have been mediocre. The shop head is > always off to one side, not a full blown cleat but definitely inferior > results to what I get with a bucking bar or a regular, (straight,) back > riveting set. Does someone who has used this set successfully have any tips? > I'm using both hands on the gun and set, I'm visuallizing the rivet. Also > if you didn't have good results I'd like to hear from you to. thanks > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Subject: Re: back riveting with the long avery set, good, bad, indifferent?
Date: Jul 19, 2003
>I bought one of those long slightly angled back rivet sets for back riveting around rib flanges. I have been >practicing on 2 pieces of .025 with dimples and -3.5 rivets. My results so far have been mediocre. The shop >head is always off to one side, not a full blown cleat but definitely inferior results to what I get with a bucking >bar or a regular, (straight,) back riveting set. Does someone who has used this set successfully have any tips? >I'm using both hands on the gun and set, I'm visuallizing the rivet. Also if you didn't have good results I'd like >to hear from you to. thanks I had great results with the Avery long set. Avery had included a warning slip of paper saying something to the effect that some builders might not get satisfactory results, etc, etc. One thing did concern me though: The recess in the end of the bar (on mine) was .042" deep and to my thinking that is too close to the rivet 1/2 diameter so I ground down and polished the rim side that rests opposite to the rib flange to .025" to make sure that there would not be any contact to the flange. Also I believe that my rivet gun, which is a Swedish relic of WW2 aircraft building here in Canada, which had a 10mm bore (which I honed to take the standard .403" Dia sets), was a major contributor to good result. It is probably a 2X gun and I increased the drive pressure to provide a firmer impact in this application, considering the mass of that long set. Cheers!!---Henry Hore ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Curt Hoffman" <choffman9(at)cinci.rr.com>
Subject: Re: back riveting with the long avery set, good, bad, indifferent?
Date: Jul 23, 2003
I did both my wings using the back riveter and found the same thing. I tried very hard to get consistent shop heads but many of them were slightly offset. I think I must have been a little intimidated because we looked at the finished wings it was suggested I go back and hit the rivets a little more. I plan to do that but will just use a regular bucking bar and set to finish them off. In hindsight, I think I would only use the back riveter where necessary and use a standard set for most of my wing. Curt Hoffman RV-9A wings done for now- working on tail Piper Cherokee N5320W 1974 TR6 ----- Original Message ----- From: "rpmiller" <rpmiller(at)1usa.net> Subject: RV-List: back riveting with the long avery set, good, bad, indifferent? > > I bought one of those long slightly angled back rivet sets for back riveting around rib flanges. I have been practicing on 2 pieces of .025 with dimples and -3.5 rivets. My results so far have been mediocre. The shop head is always off to one side, not a full blown cleat but definitely inferior results to what I get with a bucking bar or a regular, (straight,) back riveting set. Does someone who has used this set successfully have any tips? I'm using both hands on the gun and set, I'm visuallizing the rivet. Also if you didn't have good results I'd like to hear from you to. thanks > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: back riveting with the long avery set, good, bad, indifferent?
Date: Jul 23, 2003
I didn't have the cleating problem but did note that the set would "bottom out", so what I did was reduce the depth of the counterbore slightly with the sanding disk and 3M wheel. You just need a slight counterbore to prevent slipping off the rivet. I would suggest starting with some very light taps before opeing the trigger all the way and just make sure the set is perpendicular to the surface being rivited. The longer set makes this a little more awkward. One thing for sure, you will love the way the skins look when you are done--no dimples. Pat Hatch RV-4 RV-6 RV-7 QB (Building) Vero Beach, FL ----- Original Message ----- From: "rpmiller" <rpmiller(at)1usa.net> Subject: RV-List: back riveting with the long avery set, good, bad, indifferent? > > I bought one of those long slightly angled back rivet sets for back riveting around rib flanges. I have been practicing on 2 pieces of .025 with dimples and -3.5 rivets. My results so far have been mediocre. The shop head is always off to one side, not a full blown cleat but definitely inferior results to what I get with a bucking bar or a regular, (straight,) back riveting set. Does someone who has used this set successfully have any tips? I'm using both hands on the gun and set, I'm visuallizing the rivet. Also if you didn't have good results I'd like to hear from you to. thanks > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 23, 2003
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: back riveting with the long avery set, good, bad,
indifferent? My top skins look almost as good as quality back riveted skins. I think the secret is to set the rivet in about 1 second, instead of hammering away on it for 2 or 3. > >RP (?) -- > >This is one of these issues that there is DEFINITELY two schools of thought; >those that figure that you are completely insane ;-) NOT to backrivet the top >skin first using the backrivet set, and those that figure that it just doesn't >make that much of a difference. I found that with the backrivet set that the >skin MIGHT be a little smoother (and it might not), but the flange was >definitely not as tight against the skin as compared to rivets set in the >conventional way. And it's pretty easy to have the set get away from you and >prang the flange with the backrivet set. After a couple of ribs with the >backrivet set, I abandoned it in favour of conventional set and bucking bar, >and I'm very happy with the results. > >Just to prove my credentials as a contrarian, ;-), I also put the bottom skin >on first...I'm also happy with the way that worked out as well, particularly >when it comes to the aft spar details that you have to attend to after the >first skin is on, but before the second one. > >Hope this helps... > >Terry in Calgary >RV-6 S/N 24414 >"Wings" > >Quoting rpmiller : > >> >> I bought one of those long slightly angled back rivet sets for back riveting >> around rib flanges. I have been practicing on 2 pieces of .025 with dimples >> and -3.5 rivets. My results so far have been mediocre. The shop head is >> always off to one side, not a full blown cleat but definitely inferior >> results to what I get with a bucking bar or a regular, (straight,) back >> riveting set. Does someone who has used this set successfully have any tips? >> I'm using both hands on the gun and set, I'm visuallizing the rivet. Also >> if you didn't have good results I'd like to hear from you to. thanks >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net>
Subject: Re: back riveting with the long avery set, good, bad, indifferent?
Date: Jul 23, 2003
My wife and I had similar results. After adding an additional bend further up the shank to create an offset so as to get a straighter shot at the rivet heads, Only a little better results where achieved. The thing sits abandoned on the rack. some day I'll make something usefull out of it. Jim in Kelowna ----- Original Message ----- From: "rpmiller" <rpmiller(at)1usa.net> Subject: RV-List: back riveting with the long avery set, good, bad, indifferent? > > I bought one of those long slightly angled back rivet sets for back riveting around rib flanges. I have been practicing on 2 pieces of .025 with dimples and -3.5 rivets. My results so far have been mediocre. The shop head is always off to one side, not a full blown cleat but definitely inferior results to what I get with a bucking bar or a regular, (straight,) back riveting set. Does someone who has used this set successfully have any tips? I'm using both hands on the gun and set, I'm visuallizing the rivet. Also if you didn't have good results I'd like to hear from you to. thanks > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVer273sb(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 23, 2003
Subject: 0360 sump
List members, I am still looking for a 0360 sump, bottom carb mount. Not serviceable or used. Stewart RV-4 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 23, 2003
From: Gary & Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)direcpc.com>
Subject: Re: back riveting with the long avery set, good, bad,
indifferent? Ditto to Jim's story. I got one for cheap if any body needs one. GZ Jim Jewell wrote: > >My wife and I had similar results. After adding an additional bend further >up the shank to create an offset so as to get a straighter shot at the rivet >heads, Only a little better results where achieved. >The thing sits abandoned on the rack. some day I'll make something usefull >out of it. > >Jim in Kelowna > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "rpmiller" <rpmiller(at)1usa.net> >To: >Subject: RV-List: back riveting with the long avery set, good, bad, >indifferent? > > > > >> >>I bought one of those long slightly angled back rivet sets for back >> >> >riveting around rib flanges. I have been practicing on 2 pieces of .025 >with dimples and -3.5 rivets. My results so far have been mediocre. The >shop head is always off to one side, not a full blown cleat but definitely >inferior results to what I get with a bucking bar or a regular, (straight,) >back riveting set. Does someone who has used this set successfully have any >tips? I'm using both hands on the gun and set, I'm visuallizing the rivet. >Also if you didn't have good results I'd like to hear from you to. thanks > > >> >> > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: Firewall forward kit.
Date: Jul 23, 2003
> PC 680 Install K Battery Mount. I think I will build my own like Dan > Checkaway did ( or I think he did ) I may use dual Panasonic LC-RD1217P > batteries instead of the PC 680. I bought the PC680 install kit from Van's. It's pricy, but worth it for the convenience in my opinion. I was just over at Spruce earlier today and they sell the PC680 complete with the steel box. If you could come up with just the powder coated brackets that Van's gives you in the kit, you'd be set. But then again, Spruce's price on the battery itself sucks (last time I checked). )_( Dan RV-7 N714D http://www.rvproject.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 23, 2003
Subject: Re: back riveting with the long Avery set, good, bad,
indifferent?
From: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net>
On 7/23/03 12:36 PM, "rpmiller" wrote: > > I bought one of those long slightly angled back rivet sets for back riveting > around rib flanges. I have been practicing on 2 pieces of .025 with dimples > and -3.5 rivets. My results so far have been mediocre. The shop head is > always off to one side, not a full blown cleat but definitely inferior results > to what I get with a bucking bar or a regular, (straight,) back riveting set. > Does someone who has used this set successfully have any tips? I'm using both > hands on the gun and set, I'm visuallizing the rivet. Also if you didn't have > good results I'd like to hear from you to. thanks > > As others have pointed out, there is a bit more technique involved in using the angled back rivet set. I definitely had the problems you described and had better results with the conventional method. My reason for doing the back rivet method was it is more tolerant of amateur and nervous helpers! Which is what a lot of us must work with when using our loved ones for assistants. Years ago when I started an old timer pointed to the big mushroom thing with a rubber skirt and said "You'll get your best rivets with this." He was right. My back riveting mostly looked A LITTLE flatter. And the dings were all on the Non showing side. I beat the hell out of some rib flanges, and had some ugly shop heads, but the outside always looked great. Both sides of the rivet are important so I lean toward the bucking bar and the big swivel mushroom with the rubber skirt. This is what I always wind up doing when I go help someone. Sooo, Will I use the long crooked thingy on my next plane? Sure! Getting a well qualified assistant to run the bucking bar or the gun is not always easy or even practical. What I am saying is very easy to train almost anyone to hold the big weight against the skin, and lean in to it while you shoot from the other side. Many times it is worth the bother, and may save your marriage, since you will holler at your wife less often. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Stephenson" <mike(at)proclaimweb.com>
Subject: Re: 0360 sump
Date: Jul 23, 2003
Stewart, someone is trying to sell one on ebay. They have listed it twice and the auction ended without a sale. You might watch to see if it is put back up. Mike Stephenson RV-6A > List members, > I am still looking for a 0360 sump, bottom carb > mount. Not serviceable or used. > Stewart RV-4 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HalBenjamin(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 23, 2003
Subject: Re: back riveting with the long avery set, good, bad, indifferent?
RP, I've found that I get better results with angled sets (Long & Short) if I use a bee hive set retainer and wrap duct tape around both to reduce it's tendency to rotate while riveting. Hal Benjamin RV-4, Skinning Fuselage Long Island, NY ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob n' Lu Olds" <oldsfolks(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Back Riveting With Avery set
Date: Jul 23, 2003
I used the back rivet set on my bottom wing skins with no problem. I back riveted almost all of my fuselage skins with excellent results. My wife held a 2" X 2" X 4" steel bar on the outside. I put masking tape on the shank of the rivet set and a big red line down to the inside of the bend ; this enabled me to keep the set properly aligned. Close quarters in the RV-4 fuselage for a 200 pounder ! I back riveted the fuselage skins on my neighbors RV-6A , also with good results. I love the Avery back rivet set. It pushes everything against a flat surface and with a good heavy flat bar results are very good. Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor Charleston,Arkansas ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James Jula" <jmjula(at)comcast.net>
Subject: back riveting with the long avery set, good, bad, indifferent?
Date: Jul 23, 2003
I just purchased a 12" back rivet set from Cleavand while at Arlington. It does not have an offset, but it does have a plastic retainer with spring similar to the shorter versions. I have yet to use it on the wing, but it worked great on practice pieces, and made the aft rivets on the ailerons stiffeners much easier to set. James -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of rpmiller Subject: RV-List: back riveting with the long avery set, good, bad, indifferent? I bought one of those long slightly angled back rivet sets for back riveting around rib flanges. I have been practicing on 2 pieces of .025 with dimples and -3.5 rivets. My results so far have been mediocre. The shop head is always off to one side, not a full blown cleat but definitely inferior results to what I get with a bucking bar or a regular, (straight,) back riveting set. Does someone who has used this set successfully have any tips? I'm using both hands on the gun and set, I'm visuallizing the rivet. Also if you didn't have good results I'd like to hear from you to. thanks ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo(at)verizon.net>
"RV List" ,
Subject: Pancake Breakfast
Date: Jul 23, 2003
SoCal Rvers, Looking for the best place to fly and eat breakfast on August 9th. Come on up to Apple Valley and ... ********************************************** EAA Chapter 768's Pancake Breakfast Where: Apple Valley Airport (APV) When: August 9, 2003 Time: Starts 7:30-8:00 AM Ends 10:00 AM (or when you stop eating) Location: Picnic Tables - East of Terminal Building Donation: $3.00 Recommended Menu: Pancakes, Sausages, Orange Juice, and Coffee Fly up to the beautiful high desert and have breakfast with EAA Chapter 768, "Apple Corp." Show off your plane and enjoy the camaraderie of some "Plane People." Contact Tom Gummo at 760-242-2669 or email: t.gummo(at)verizon.net ******************************************************** Tom Gummo Apple Valley, CA President EAA Chapter 768 Pilot - Harmon Rocket II - N561FS - 140 hours - 260 bouncing landings ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 23, 2003
From: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: back riveting with the long avery set, good, bad,
indifferent? RP, When using a set which has either a single or even a double offset, you may need to keep the face of the set at some slight angle to the rivet tail. By this, I mean that you will not hold it perpendicular to the rivet. Hold the set so that it will slightly angle the rivet away from the direction (usually towards the web of the rib) that your rivet heads have been moving. Personally, I've found that the use of a "C" style back riveting set is much better and easier to use, than the Avery long back riveting set. These C style sets will also get in much tighter spaces than the Avery tool. Charlie Kuss PS I can send you a photo and more info if you are interested in this style of tool > >I bought one of those long slightly angled back rivet sets for back riveting around rib flanges. I have been practicing on 2 pieces of .025 with dimples and -3.5 rivets. My results so far have been mediocre. The shop head is always off to one side, not a full blown cleat but definitely inferior results to what I get with a bucking bar or a regular, (straight,) back riveting set. Does someone who has used this set successfully have any tips? I'm using both hands on the gun and set, I'm visuallizing the rivet. Also if you didn't have good results I'd like to hear from you to. thanks ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 24, 2003
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: 0360 sump
I recommend the Superior air parts sump. Its good for 5hp over the standard Lycoming sump. > >List members, > I am still looking for a 0360 sump, bottom carb >mount. Not serviceable or used. >Stewart RV-4 > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: FW: keep FAA air traffic control away from a fee based system
Date: Jul 24, 2003
From: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu>
Guys, Here's a copy of the note I sent to our senators and congressman. You might want to do the same. It might help keep the Feds from dipping further into your wallet. You don't have to be a writer. It is enough to say: "Please don't allow FAA air traffic control to charge user fees." Then sign your name and address. They'll ignore your letter if it doesn't have your name and address!!!! Here's the email addresses: senator(at)bayh.senate.gov senator_lugar(at)lugar.senate.gov John.Hostettler(at)mail.house.gov Outside of Indiana can look up your senators and congressman's addresses here: http://www.geocities.com/CapitolHill/1411/ Email won't cost you a dime, so what are you waiting for? Vince > -----Original Message----- > From: Frazier, Vincent A > Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2003 8:34 AM > To: Richard Lugar (E-mail) > Subject: keep FAA air traffic control away from a fee based system > > Dear Senator Lugar: > > Please work to keep FAA air traffic control away from a fee based system. As it is now, ATC is paid for through FAA funding, not user fees. User fees would discourage aviation activities. > > Please have a look at the Canadian fee based ATC system described in the new article below. The Canadian system certainly discourages US pilots from visiting Canada. I know. I've been there. > > I have been a pilot for 20 years. We don't need user fees impeding progress here. Aviation is a vital part of our economy. Please don't fetter it. > > As the article below implies, having private contractors running a control tower or other facility is fine. As long as they don't charge user fees for their services. > > Vince Frazier > 3965 Caborn Road > Mount Vernon, IN 47620 > > > From AVWeb: > > The Cost Of Privatization > NAV CANADA Hikes Service Charges... > Canadian pilots will find themselves shelling out a few more bucks every time they fly, thanks to a hike in air-navigation service charges. On Monday, NAV CANADA announced the decision to proceed with a planned 6.9-percent increase <http://www.navcanada.ca/contentEN/news/newsreleases/2003/nr0721b.asp > following a mandatory 60-day consultation period. The company says the charges will be on average only 4 percent higher than when they were first introduced in March 1999. Furthermore, NAV CANADA claims this increase was required to "deal with a revenue shortfall due to the continuing downturn in air traffic." The new charges will come into effect August 1, 2003, with annual and quarterly charges to be implemented on March 1, 2004. [more] So, how much can flyers expect to cough up? On a per-passenger basis, the increase amounts to 65 cents more per one-way ticket for a flight from Toronto to Ottawa. GA operators should visit NAV CANADA's homepage for specific information on the increases. NAV CANADA officials claim the company has undertaken an aggressive cost-cutting plan over the last two years, saving about $75 million. This amount is in addition to the $100 million in annual cost savings and staff reductions already achieved through previous restructuring. > > ...While U.S. ATC Privatization Battles Looms > While Canadians prepare to dish out extra money for their airborne needs, those living in the U.S. continue to fight against the proposition of privatizing ATC. As AVweb reported last month <http://www.avweb.com/newswire/9_25b/briefs/185189-1.html>, the White House and Congress are at odds over the upcoming FAA Reauthorization Bill . The administration has threatened to veto the bill if the final version contains language that would outlaw the privatization of air traffic controllers and possibly flight services and technical personnel in the system. In addition, the legislative process itself is stirring controversy and heating up the debate. Stan Soloway, president of the > Professional Services Council , a trade group in Arlington, Va., told Washington Technology , "most senators voting for the FAA authorization amendment thought they were voting to restrict privatization of air-traffic control, when they were actually voting to restrict competition for the infrastructure that supports air-traffic control." [more] "It was never debated in committee, there was a brief discussion, and boom -- it passes. That's not a good way to make public policy," he told the paper. Legislators' efforts through A-76 -- the revised U.S. Office of Management and Budget circular on public-private competition of government jobs, federal unions and lawmakers -- to halt job competitions are "devastating to the agencies," said Soloway, whose group is working to educate members of Congress about the revised A-76 process. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RE: back riveting with the long avery set, good, bad, indifferent?
Date: Jul 24, 2003
From: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu>
The absolute worst dent I've ever made while riveting anything was while using a similar back riveting set while putting the top skins on my Rocket wings. And the results of the back riveting were NO BETTER than using the good ol' swivel head flush set. No more back riveting with a long set for me. BTW, the key to getting those nice flat rivet lines is to bump the rivet back out after driving. Use a hammer and that long set.... it works well for this task. Vince ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Firewall forward kit.
Date: Jul 24, 2003
I added up the separate costs of the items in the RV7 constant speed firewall forward kit using an inventory provided by Vans. There's maybe a tiny cost savings versus buying the items separately. There is a HUGE time savings by having the design already thought out and not having to wait for the inevitable bits and pieces you forgot to arrive. If you must modify the design as I did because I was building an RV8A and no kit was available at that time, at least get the drawings and manual to get a place to start. You can save some money buying the items individually if you don't want some pieces such as the gascolator. Use the kit inventory to purchase the parts you do want. Dave Reel - RV8A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tony Marshall" <tonymarshall(at)montana.com>
Subject: Fly-In, Polson, MT, August 23
Date: Jul 24, 2003
C'mon in for our annual fly-in....free breakfast for pilots bringing planes. Activities throughout the day. Polson (8S1) is on the south end of the beautiful Flathead Lake in NW Montana. We have a great 60 x 4000+ paved runway and plenty of fuel. Plenty of motels and restaurants or camp on the grass tie-down area. Again....Polson, MT, Saturday Aug 23. Writer of this note is looking to purchase a flying RV-6 or 6a....so if this note appears self serving....well, the trip to Polson will be worth it. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 24, 2003
From: Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Van's FAB filter bypass kit
I considered this, but I would rather build up the bottom of the box to fit the steel door, using a thick mix of mill-fiber and epoxy, and some mold release on the door to keep it from sticking. I did the same thing to get the carb air door to fit more snuggly. I am waiting until after Oshkosh to decide, so that I can talk to Ken @ Van's and get his opinion. Jeff Scott Bilinski wrote: > >The door can be made to seal with some silicone or fuel tank sealant. Im >sure you know the drill, mask off one part apply the sealant close the door >and let cure. Remove tape and you have a perfect custom fit. This will also >prevent the door from rattling due to vibration. > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Crosley, Rich" <RCROSLEY(at)HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM>
Subject: Good Battery Prices--PC-680 $62.55, RG25XC $95.98
Date: Jul 24, 2003
Found the PC680 and Concord RG25XC battery at https://www.batteries4everything.com/index.html Rich Crosley RV-8 Palmdale, CA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: Good Battery Prices--PC-680 $62.55, RG25XC $95.98
Date: Jul 24, 2003
Just a word to the wise...especially since you live in CA... Batteries4Everything charges sales tax and ships via UPS. You can order the PC680 from SunnBattery -- http://www.sunnbattery.com -- for $74.59. Yes, it's $12 more, but you won't pay sales tax, and the shipping is a flat $5.50 for Priority Mail! When you get done with all the tax and shipping from Batteries4Everything, it's a lot cheaper from SunnBattery. http://www.sunnbattery.com/item.jhtml?UCIDs=553828%7C1209500&PRID=1292858 Just wanted to pass this on... )_( Dan RV-7 N714D http://www.rvproject.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Crosley, Rich" <RCROSLEY(at)HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM> Subject: RV-List: Good Battery Prices--PC-680 $62.55, RG25XC $95.98 > > Found the PC680 and Concord RG25XC battery at > https://www.batteries4everything.com/index.html > > Rich Crosley > RV-8 Palmdale, CA > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RV-7 Tail Spring Attachment Question
Date: Jul 24, 2003
From: "Clinchy, Dave" <clinchd(at)losrios.edu>
Listers, I just finished assembling the WD-409 tail spring mount between the bulkheads and bottom skin. There is a bolt that goes through the tail spring mount and the end of the tail spring, to hold the tail spring in place. There is not enough room between the bottom skin and the mount to put the nut on this bolt... The plans are silent on how to put this nut on. It looks like I'll need to drill a hole in the bottom skin so I can slip this nut on the bolt. What have you guys done in this situation? Dave Clinchy RV7 fuse Sacramento ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Neil McLeod" <bedrock(at)theriver.com>
Subject: RV-7 Tail Spring Attachment Question
Date: Jul 24, 2003
Drilled a hole in the skin to allow a nut and wrench to install it. Neil McLeod 7 QB Finish and FWF -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Clinchy, Dave Subject: RV-List: RV-7 Tail Spring Attachment Question Listers, I just finished assembling the WD-409 tail spring mount between the bulkheads and bottom skin. There is a bolt that goes through the tail spring mount and the end of the tail spring, to hold the tail spring in place. There is not enough room between the bottom skin and the mount to put the nut on this bolt... The plans are silent on how to put this nut on. It looks like I'll need to drill a hole in the bottom skin so I can slip this nut on the bolt. What have you guys done in this situation? Dave Clinchy RV7 fuse Sacramento ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 24, 2003
From: Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: RV-7 Tail Spring Attachment Question
Yes, a hole about 1 inch or so, big enough to get a socket onto. I believe the manual mentions this, at least it did for the -6. Jeff Point RV-6 panel, wiring Milwaukee WI Clinchy, Dave wrote: > >Listers, > >I just finished assembling the WD-409 tail spring mount between the >bulkheads and bottom skin. There is a bolt that goes through the tail >spring mount and the end of the tail spring, to hold the tail spring in >place. There is not enough room between the bottom skin and the mount to >put the nut on this bolt... The plans are silent on how to put this nut >on. It looks like I'll need to drill a hole in the bottom skin so I can >slip this nut on the bolt. > >What have you guys done in this situation? > >Dave Clinchy >RV7 fuse >Sacramento > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kosta Lewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com>
Subject: RV-4 Canopy skirt chafing
Date: Jul 24, 2003
>>I used a rubber "U" channel, with one side of >>the "U" being a tad longer than the other, the longer side being inside. >Where did you get that "special" U channel, and do you have the part >number? Aircraft Spruce: Listed under Rubber Channel. Part # RCHB. I tapered it at the forward ends and weather strip glued it into place. I had to put a little nick in the inner aspect of it at the very back of the canopy skirt to get it to lay flat. Outer part is continuous. Hasn't moved in 700 hours. Seals the canopy too. And it looks like it belongs there. Michael RV-4 N232 Suzie Q OSH bound tomorrow......... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com>
Subject: Microair 760 Transceiver
Date: Jul 24, 2003
Here is the response I got yesterday when I asked if Xcom was shipping yet: Terry Almost..... We have finished the FCC testing program and now just await the paperwork then production starts, my guess is it will still be around 6 weeks before shipping. If your at Oshkosh please drop by to site 405. Thanks Michael ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: FAA Approved PC680
Date: Jul 24, 2003
Here is an FAA approved PC680 (called an SBS-J16) for a few more bucks. Not clear what FAA approval buys you. Perhaps this makes it legal to stuff it into your Cessna. http://www.batterymart.com/battery.mv?p=SBS-J16 Ed Anderson RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered Matthews, NC eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Subject: Re: Van's FAB filter bypass kit
Date: Jul 24, 2003
Any way someone could test to see it work? Maybe close off the intake and start while on the ground to see if the door opens? Paul Besing RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10) http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software http://www.kitlog.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil(at)petrasoft.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: Van's FAB filter bypass kit > > I have the one for the AFP fuel injection vertical mount FAB. I'ts a rubber > hinge a couple of pieces of galvanized steel and a REALLY strong magnet. It > looks like it will be really simple and there are no bolts, pins or other > type stuff that could get loose and go into the engine. > > Godspeed, > > Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas > RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Canopy > http://www.myrv7.com > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> > To: > Subject: RV-List: Van's FAB filter bypass kit > > > > > > Does anyone have info on the air filter bypass kit that Van mentions on > his > > web site? Without bothering them by phone I didn't see anything on his web > > site that gave details. Anybody have info? > > > > John > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: RV-7 Tail Spring Attachment Question
Date: Jul 24, 2003
At least on my tailcone skin, there was a pilot hole in that general location. Just enlarged it using a Unibit. Forget the size I ended up with...I think 11/16". See a photo about halfway down this page: http://www.rvproject.com/20021006.html )_( Dan RV-7 N714D http://www.rvproject.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Clinchy, Dave" <clinchd(at)losrios.edu> Subject: RV-List: RV-7 Tail Spring Attachment Question > > Listers, > > I just finished assembling the WD-409 tail spring mount between the > bulkheads and bottom skin. There is a bolt that goes through the tail > spring mount and the end of the tail spring, to hold the tail spring in > place. There is not enough room between the bottom skin and the mount to > put the nut on this bolt... The plans are silent on how to put this nut > on. It looks like I'll need to drill a hole in the bottom skin so I can > slip this nut on the bolt. > > What have you guys done in this situation? > > Dave Clinchy > RV7 fuse > Sacramento > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Lycoming O-320 in RV-8?
Date: Jul 25, 2003
Is anyone aware of a Lyc O-320 powerd RV-8(A) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 24, 2003
From: Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: STD-1211
Any "gotcha's" I should anticipate before I remove the expansion plug from the front of my factory new 0-320 to configure it for fixed pitch operation? What is the best way to remove and replace the plug with a STD-1211? Rick Galati RV-6A FWF --------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 24, 2003
Subject: Re: Lycoming O-320 in RV-8?
From: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net>
On 7/24/03 6:05 PM, "Eric Parlow" wrote: > > Is anyone aware of a Lyc O-320 powerd RV-8(A) > > The Von Dane machine ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: STD-1211
Date: Jul 24, 2003
The FRONT plug stays for fixed pitch. You remove it for a constant speed and place another plug at the rear of the front main bearing cavity. Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh Editor, EAA Safety Programs cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org Always looking for articles for the Experimenter ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rick Galati" <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> Subject: RV-List: STD-1211 > > Any "gotcha's" I should anticipate before I remove the expansion plug from the front of my factory new 0-320 to configure it for fixed pitch operation? What is the best way to remove and replace the plug with a STD-1211? > > Rick Galati RV-6A FWF > > > --------------------------------- > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 24, 2003
From: Charlie & Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
Subject: Re: Lycoming O-320 in RV-8?
Denis Walsh wrote: > >On 7/24/03 6:05 PM, "Eric Parlow" wrote: > > > >> >>Is anyone aware of a Lyc O-320 powerd RV-8(A) >> >> >> >> >The Von Dane machine > Andy McCain, next door to me. 150 hp. Seems to fly fine except that his prop maker overestimated the O-320's grunt. We are considering a prop swap to see if it would help us both. I've got a 160 hp -4 that's way under propped for low altitude flying here in Mississippi. Charlie (anybody got a used 160 hp cruise prop for sale?) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Lycoming O-320 in RV-8?
Date: Jul 25, 2003
Eric: There was an RV-8 with 150 HP Constant Speed at Camron Park, CA. A gentleman named Brian Halkett brian_halkett(at)yahoo.com built it then solded it. He now flys an Apache to build multi engine time. My friend Randy Thorne staart(at)volcano.net (built, flew, and sold an RV-4, IO-320, Constant Speed) reports that Brian's RV-8 with 150 was very fast. Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, 1,305 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com ----Original Message Follows---- From: "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow(at)hotmail.com> Subject: RV-List: Lycoming O-320 in RV-8? Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 00:05:24 +0000 Is anyone aware of a Lyc O-320 powerd RV-8(A) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BPattonsoa(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 24, 2003
Subject: Re: back riveting with the long avery set, good, bad, indifferent?
One thing I have not seen in this thread. I did my RV-6A wing tops with the offset Avery. It took two hands on the rivet gun side. One hand holds the rivet gun, the other holds the set near the bend (or somewhere near) to keep it from wandering. Also used a very heavy bucking bar. Did one wing in about two hours, the other with a complete novice on the bar side in about 2.5. Bruce Patton -6a 596S Flying (to KOSH Sunday) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net>
Subject: STD-1211
Date: Jul 24, 2003
Yes, but on new engines at least, the engine comes with the rear plug installed. So you have to pull the front plug, punch a hole in (or remove) the rear plug, the reinstall the front one. Punch (don't drill) a small hole in the front plug, and remove it with a screwdriver. Then use a really long screwdriver to punch the hole in the back plug, and reinstall the front plug. I was able to borrow a big brass drift to drive in the center of the plug (it's concave, so driving in the center presses the outer edge against the inside of the crankshaft). Ed Bundy - Eagle, Idaho RV6A 600 hours > The FRONT plug stays for fixed pitch. You remove it for a constant speed > and place another plug at the rear of the front main bearing cavity. > > Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh > > Any "gotcha's" I should anticipate before I remove the > expansion plug from > the front of my factory new 0-320 to configure it for fixed pitch > operation? What is the best way to remove and replace the plug with a > STD-1211? > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rich Crosley" <dirtrider(at)qnet.com>
Subject: Constant Speed vs. Fixed Pitch
Date: Jul 24, 2003
I am building an RV-8 with a O-360, Lasar. Is the Constant speed worth the $5000.00. What am I giving up? How do you guys with the fixed pitch Sensenich Metal Props like them? Rich Crosley Palmdale,CA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net>
Subject: Constant Speed vs. Fixed Pitch
Date: Jul 24, 2003
Not to be flippant, but check the archives. This subject has been discussed at length. It's in the same category as: Tailwheel or Nosewheel? Slider or Tip-up? Prime on Not? Tastes great or Less filling? Basically constant speed offer better climb. If 2000fpm at sea level is good enough, go with fixed pitch. If you want a few hundred fpm more than that, or like "chop it and drop it" descents, and don't mind paying for it, go with C/S. Ed Bundy - Eagle, Idaho RV6A 600 hours > I am building an RV-8 with a O-360, Lasar. Is the Constant speed worth > the $5000.00. What am I giving up? How do you guys with the fixed pitch > Sensenich Metal Props like them? > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
Subject: Re: Constant Speed vs. Fixed Pitch
Date: Jul 24, 2003
> I am building an RV-8 with a O-360, Lasar. Is the Constant speed worth > the $5000.00. YES, and there's much in the archives on this issue. Randy Lervold RV-8, 330 hrs. www.rv-8.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Cimino" <jcimino(at)echoes.net>
Subject: Re: Constant Speed vs. Fixed Pitch
Date: Jul 25, 2003
I have flown both and have about 100hrs on my -8 with the C/S, wouldn't consider giving it up. James Cimino RV-8 SN 80039 100+ Hours 570-842-4057 http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rich Crosley" <dirtrider(at)qnet.com> Subject: RV-List: Constant Speed vs. Fixed Pitch > > I am building an RV-8 with a O-360, Lasar. Is the Constant speed worth > the $5000.00. What am I giving up? How do you guys with the fixed pitch > Sensenich Metal Props like them? > > Rich Crosley > Palmdale,CA > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 24, 2003
From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Constant Speed vs. Fixed Pitch
Randy Lervold wrote: > >>I am building an RV-8 with a O-360, Lasar. Is the Constant speed worth >>the $5000.00. > > > YES, and there's much in the archives on this issue. > > Randy Lervold > RV-8, 330 hrs. > www.rv-8.com > Of course people that have spent big bucks on their CS well say yes. I have an O-360 with a Sensenich metal FP and and am very happy with it. When I fly with someone that has a CS I seem to get there the same time they do. When I take off in formation with someone with a CS prop they or I adjust to the circumstance. In my opinion unless you have money to burn a CS is a luxury that is not necessary unless you just have to have one. They do get you off the ground quicker (which is relative in an RV) they do have good breaking properties if you want to slow down in a hurry. In low level cruise where most of us fly in RVs they have absolutely no advantage. They have a slight advantage and are a little bit more fuel efficient at higher altitude. Jerry ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 25, 2003
From: Art Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net>
Subject: UPSAT Buyout by Garmin
I thought this might be of interest to the group. I saw this in three different places. Art Glaser http://avionicswest.com/archive/garminupsatbuy.htm#2003 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 25, 2003
From: Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: STD-1211
The FRONT plug stays for fixed pitch. You remove it for a constant speed and place another plug at the rear of the front main bearing cavity. Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh Cy, Your advice seems to be in conflict with Lycoming Service Instruction 1435. I say SEEMS because there may be some ambiguity. According to SI 1435, to configure for fixed pitch operation, the front expansion plug must be removed, and the seal located a few inches aft must be pierced or on some engines, a 1102 pipe plug removed. Then the front expansion plug is replaced with an STD-1211. At least, this is how I interpret SI 1435. I don't usually cut and paste another person's post, but we are the RV community and lots of expensive new engines are being shipped. This issue is simply to important to gloss over. Read below. Rick: I think there is room for discussion here. I also have a new Lycoming 0-320 D1A. The ENGINE INSTALLATION CHECK LIST says and I quote: "IMPORTANT DOCUMENT. 1)Drain the preservative oil, 2)pre-oil the engine, 3)The crankshaft expansion plug: If the engine installation requires a variable pitch propeller, you must remove the expansion plug from the front of the crankshaft prior to installing the propeller. then it says: IF THE INSTALLATION REQUIRES A FIXED PITCH PROPELLOR, THE PLUG SHOULD STAY IN PLACE." It seems to be in direct conflict with service instruction 1435. I called Lycoming tech. support. He said leave the plug in place, your engine is set up for a fixed pitch propellor. He said this after looking up something on his notes and I think he confirmed with someone else. I am still not confident of what to do. I am 6 to 8 weeks away from hanging my engine, so I thought I would check this group and maybe even call Lycoming back and see if I get the same answer. If you want the BRAND NEW check list that they sent me, email me your fax or address and I will send it to you. Has anyone else noticed this conflict in the instructions or am I missing something. Jack RV9A N489JE Rick Galati RV-6A FWF --------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net>
Subject: Re: STD-1211
Date: Jul 25, 2003
See my post from yesterday. I've been there. For a fixed pitch installation you can technically run the engine as-is, but you will eventually blow the front plug out and lose all of your oil at a most inconvenient time. Is there a convenient time? The engine is shipped the way it is for a C/S installation. The front plug is just there to keep foreign matter out during shipping and installation. If you want to use it for F/P operation you MUST remove the front plug, pierce the back plug and reinstall a new front plug. Then remove the high-pressure oil line and put a cover plate on the back of the engine. If you don't do the above, the high pressure oil from the oil line will sooner or later blow out the front seal, as it's not designed to resist any pressure. Ed Bundy - Eagle, Idaho RV6A 600 hours > Rick: I think there is room for discussion here. I also have a > new Lycoming 0-320 D1A. The ENGINE INSTALLATION CHECK LIST says > and I quote: "IMPORTANT DOCUMENT. 1)Drain the preservative oil, > 2)pre-oil the engine, 3)The crankshaft expansion plug: If the > engine installation requires a variable pitch propeller, you > must remove the expansion plug from the front of the crankshaft > prior to installing the propeller. then it says: IF THE > INSTALLATION REQUIRES A FIXED PITCH PROPELLOR, THE PLUG SHOULD > STAY IN PLACE." It seems to be in direct conflict with service > instruction 1435. I called Lycoming tech. support. He said leave > the plug in place, your engine is set up for a fixed pitch > propellor. He said this after looking up something on his notes > and I think he confirmed with someone else. I am still not > confident of what to do. I am 6 to 8 weeks away from hanging my > engine, so I thought I would check this group and maybe even call > Lycoming back and see if I get the same answer. If! > you want > the BRAND NEW check list that they sent me, email me your fax or > address and I will send it to you. Has anyone else noticed this > conflict in the instructions or am I missing something. Jack RV9A N489JE > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 25, 2003
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: Good Battery Prices--PC-680 $62.55, RG25XC $95.98
Dan Checkoway wrote: > > > Just a word to the wise...especially since you live in CA... > Batteries4Everything charges sales tax and ships via UPS. > > You can order the PC680 from SunnBattery -- http://www.sunnbattery.com -- > for $74.59. Yes, it's $12 more, but you won't pay sales tax, and the > shipping is a flat $5.50 for Priority Mail! When you get done with all the > tax and shipping from Batteries4Everything, it's a lot cheaper from > SunnBattery. > > http://www.sunnbattery.com/item.jhtml?UCIDs=553828%7C1209500&PRID=1292858 > > Just wanted to pass this on... Here is a quote from Dan's excellent web site: "For what it's worth, I did consider going with a Panasonic P174-ND (17ah) or P231-ND (20ah) from Digi-Key. Those suckers are about half the cost and basically the same form factor. The problem is that the form factor isn't perfectly identical...very slightly different dimensions and different terminals, from what I hear. And a bigger issue (for me) is that the internal resistance of those batteries is higher (12 and 11 milliohms respectively) than the PC680 (7 milliohms). While a P174-ND would make a good "bench" battery, it's not what I want in my plane. Food for thought in case you're considering these." Here is more food for thought. I rolled the dice on the Panasonic battery a year ago when I redid the battery installation in my RV-6: http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/battery.htm I now have a year of service on the el cheapo battery and it continues to work splendidly. I need to qualify this report by stating that my plane rarely experiences cold-soaked starts since it is hangared and warmed with an engine heater. Consequently, I cannot state how the battery would tolerate really cold weather. But, if you don't routinely start your plane at freezing or below temps (and if you do it might be a good idea to consider preheating, so this may be a moot point since the small batteries are usually installed forward of the firewall) the cheapo batteries are a good value in my opinion. I intend to run this one another year just to see how it holds up, then will probably replace it with a similar battery that is available locally for even less money. Since sealed batteries are now available at little more cost than an oil filter or spark plug, it is now practical to replace the things at every annual so we always have a fresh battery on board. Sam Buchanan ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Subject: Re: STD-1211
Date: Jul 20, 2003
The book "Tony Bingelis On Engines", page 40, Figure 2 shows an illustration of the plug attention and described in detail on page 42. That book has a lot of good tips for someone who is installing an engine and I believe is a "Must Have" for those doing it. Cheers----Henry Hore ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Lenleg(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 25, 2003
Subject: Spark Plugs
List: How often should you service spark plugs ... inspect, clean, re-gap, replace? Len Leggette RV-8A N901LL Greensboro, N.C. 106 hours !! Race # 87 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Cimino" <jcimino(at)echoes.net>
Subject: Re: Spark Plugs
Date: Jul 25, 2003
Your due! Jim James Cimino RV-8 SN 80039 100+ Hours 570-842-4057 http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/ ----- Original Message ----- From: <Lenleg(at)aol.com> Subject: RV-List: Spark Plugs > > List: > > How often should you service spark plugs ... inspect, clean, re-gap, replace? > > Len Leggette RV-8A > N901LL > Greensboro, N.C. > 106 hours !! Race # 87 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Subject: Re: Spark Plugs
Date: Jul 25, 2003
I inspect, clean, and regap with every annual. I replace either when I detect a problem or when the center electrode wears to more than 50% of its original round shape. In other words, when it begins to look like a football. Andy ----- Original Message ----- From: <Lenleg(at)aol.com> Subject: RV-List: Spark Plugs > > List: > > How often should you service spark plugs ... inspect, clean, re-gap, replace? > > Len Leggette RV-8A > N901LL > Greensboro, N.C. > 106 hours !! Race # 87 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 25, 2003
From: kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List:crankshaft oil plugs - was Re: STD-1211
Y'all, This is pretty important bit of information for it to be all bumbled up. Bumbled mostly by Lycoming! What a stupid design flaw. I don't remember a back of the crankshaft plug, I can't even recall how one gets to the back of the crankshaft. (My recall of everything is deteriorating, however!) I do remember removing the oil line and plugging the holes. If it has run 110 hours, is all okay? Ya got me worrying. Off to Oshkosh now.... K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne RV6-a N7HK flying! PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 25, 2003
From: kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Constant Speed vs. Fixed Pitch
How about use in aerobatics? hal ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com>
Subject: Re: Spark Plugs
Date: Jul 25, 2003
I have a cleaner/tester readily available to me so I do it at each oil change... -Bill VonDane RV-8A - 115 hrs www.vondane.com www.creativair.com www.epanelbuilder.com ----- Original Message ----- From: <Lenleg(at)aol.com> Subject: RV-List: Spark Plugs List: How often should you service spark plugs ... inspect, clean, re-gap, replace? Len Leggette RV-8A N901LL Greensboro, N.C. 106 hours !! Race # 87 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <ktlkrn(at)cox.net>
Subject: Big Avionics Merger
Date: Jul 25, 2003
Just saw on the EAA Hot Line that Garmin purchased UPS Technologies. I just start to wonder if this is a good thing. On the positive side a merger of technology to our benefit. On the negative side one less company to compete with. Could this mean higher prices?? Just when I'm shopping for avionics!@! Darwin N. Barrie Chandler AZ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 25, 2003
Subject: Re: Constant Speed vs. Fixed Pitch
From: czechsix(at)juno.com
Jerry, Hmmm...this is interesting...my understanding was just the opposite. I thought that C.S. props had a big advantage at lower altitudes in that they can be run full throttle without overspeeding the engine, whereas most F.P. cruise props have to be up around 10K' (give or take depending on the pitch) before you can run them wide open. And my understanding was that a F.P. prop (at least the Sensenich) is actually a bit *more* efficient at cruise altitude than a C.S. prop because the blade pitch distribution is more optimized for cruise vs. the C.S. which is a compromise for all speeds (note the term "pitch distribution" here, NOT to be confused with the fact that the C.S. prop still realizes better *overall* performance due to it's ability to adjust the entire blade for optimization at any speed/rpm). I know Russell Duffy down in Florida found that his Sensenich equipped RV-8 would outrun his buddy's Hartzell-equipped RV-8 at cruise altitude--once he could open the throttle all the way--but in every other area (low altitudes and climb performance) the C.S. prop would outperform the Sensenich by a considerable margin... FWIW. --Mark Navratil Cedar Rapids, Iowa RV-8A N2D painting... From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: Constant Speed vs. Fixed Pitch In low level cruise where most of us fly in RVs [C.S. props] have absolutely no advantage. They have a slight advantage and are a little bit more fuel efficient at higher altitude. Jerry The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand! Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com>
"vansairforce"
Subject: Marvel Schebler
Date: Jul 25, 2003
Anyone wanting to understand the design and operation of the carburetor would probably enjoy this well written article. I found out about if from a post on the canard email list... http://www.kellyaerospace.com/articles/Accessory_AMT.pdf -Bill VonDane RV-8A - 115 hours www.vondane.com www.creativair.com www.epanelbuilder.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Constant Speed vs. Fixed Pitch
Date: Jul 25, 2003
CS prop out performs fixed pitch most of the time - high, low, fast, slow. Also, 150/160-hp -8's do just fine. Bryan Jones -8, 530 hrs, 160-hp, CS Pearland, Texas >Jerry, > >Hmmm...this is interesting...my understanding was just the opposite. I >thought that C.S. props had a big advantage at lower altitudes in that they >can be run full throttle without overspeeding the engine, whereas most F.P. >cruise props have to be up around 10K' (give or take depending on the >pitch) >From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Constant Speed vs. Fixed Pitch > > > >In low level cruise where most of us fly in RVs [C.S. props] have >absolutely no advantage. They have a slight advantage and are a little bit >more fuel efficient at higher altitude. > >Jerry ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Roger Evenson" <revenson(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Com/Nav Antenna Connectors
Date: Jul 25, 2003
What kind of antenna cable connectors are used for Com and Nav radios? Is there consistency among manufacturers? Roger, Tucson. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>

Subject: Re: EFIS-D10 Battery Update
Date: Jul 25, 2003
Gillian, My internal battery voltage read 16.3 volts when I turned on the unit today. Is that indicative of an over-charge situation? I removed the keep-alive fuse immediately after receiving this email just in case. Is there anything I can do on my end to determine whether or not the battery is ok or not? i.e. serial #, markings, etc.? I would prefer the 2nd method of replacement...where you ship me a new battery and I return the old one. Please let me know if you do not already have my address on file, etc. Thanks much, )_( Dan RV-7 N714D http://www.rvproject.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gillian D'Ancicco" <gillian(at)dynondevelopment.com> Subject: EFIS-D10 Battery Update > > July 25, 2003 > > Dear EFIS-D10 customer, > > > You have purchased an EFIS-D10 with the internal battery option. These > batteries are high capacity Lithium Ion chemistry. (We recently operated a > D10 for 4 hours on its internal battery.) As you may know, Lithium Ion > batteries must be protected from an overcharge condition. This protection > is redundantly provided by hardware and software in the D10 electronics, and > by a special safety circuit inside the battery. > > Our battery manufacturer has just informed us that some batteries may have > been manufactured with the internal safety circuit miswired, which would > compromise this redundant protection. This manufacturing error was probably > confined to the most recent lot of batteries, most of which have been > quarantined at our facility. We have worked with our battery vendor to > requalify his manufacturing process and to establish an additional final > test (which we will duplicate here) to ensure that new batteries are > properly manufactured. You are receiving this letter because it is likely > that the battery in your EFIS is from the lot with the manufacturing error. > > While the probability of a problem is very low as it would still require two > hardware and/or software failures, safety demands that we ask you not to fly > your EFIS-D10 unless the battery has been removed. Directions for removing > the battery are given below. > > We are offering you two alternatives for making sure you have a good battery > in your EFIS: One, you can return your EFIS to us, at our expense, and we > will verify the battery, replace if necessary, and ship it back to you > within two days. Second, we can send you a new battery as they become > available to us from the manufacturer. After replacing the battery, we ask > that you ship the old battery to us for remanufacturing. > > Directions for removing the battery: > The battery is removed from the back of the unit (the end opposite the > display.) The battery is behind a door held on by three hex screws. DO NOT > REMOVE the two Philips head screws that hold the back cover on the EFIS. > This could affect your calibration. Remove the three hex screws and the > battery cover. The battery can be disconnected by separating the two > connector pieces. Gently pull the battery out of the EFIS. If a new > battery is not available, the cover can be replaced and the three hex screws > re-inserted. If a new battery is available, slide it in with the "bump" up > or away from the case and then mate the connectors. Then replace the back > cover. > > We believe that this is sufficiently important that we request you phone or > email us your preferred option for doing this inspection. Otherwise we will > telephone you next week. We will ship you a new battery at our expense > within the next two weeks if this is your preferred option. > > We sincerely apologize for the inconvenience this will cause you. One of > our primary goals is to improve the safety of aviation, and any issue with > our products that compromises safety will be immediately brought to your > attention. If you have any complaints or comments about our handling of > this issue, or any other issue with our products, please call me at > 425-402-4334. > > Thank you, > > > John Torode > President, > Dynon Avionics > > > --- > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>

Subject: Re: EFIS-D10 Battery Update
Date: Jul 25, 2003
FYI, I just got a phone call from John Torode, the president over at Dynon. He explained that there's basically no symptom that would tell me whether the battery is bad or good. He did confirm that the fully charged voltage of the internal LI battery is 17 volts, though. Anyway, here's the scoop... There are four safety methods built into the system to prevent damage from the internal battery being overcharged. One of them is the internal circuit in the battery itself...that's the one that's potentially wired incorrectly. Apparently this problem only occurred in a recent batch. John mentioned that the battery manufacturer is refining their process to avoid errors like this in the future, and Dynon now has a software testing method that I believe they're going to use on all batteries going forward to further rule out any possibility of faulty manufacturing. So from here on it should be no problem, but I definitely need to send my battery back to Dynon just to be safe. They're sending me a replacement battery, and I can simply send the old battery back in the box provided...all of this at Dynon's expense, obviously. Just one of these little hurdles to jump over as a result of the technology and manufacturing process being somewhat nacent. As an "early adopter" I don't mind this at all...since I've got plenty of time before first flight. The company continues to be a stand-up operation with excellent customer service. )_( Dan RV-7 N714D http://www.rvproject.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> Subject: [RV7Yahoo] Re: EFIS-D10 Battery Update > Gillian, > > My internal battery voltage read 16.3 volts when I turned on the unit today. > Is that indicative of an over-charge situation? I removed the keep-alive > fuse immediately after receiving this email just in case. > > Is there anything I can do on my end to determine whether or not the battery > is ok or not? i.e. serial #, markings, etc.? > > I would prefer the 2nd method of replacement...where you ship me a new > battery and I return the old one. Please let me know if you do not already > have my address on file, etc. > > Thanks much, > )_( Dan > RV-7 N714D > http://www.rvproject.com > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Gillian D'Ancicco" <gillian(at)dynondevelopment.com> > To: > Sent: Friday, July 25, 2003 1:00 PM > Subject: EFIS-D10 Battery Update > > > > > > July 25, 2003 > > > > Dear EFIS-D10 customer, > > > > > > You have purchased an EFIS-D10 with the internal battery option. These > > batteries are high capacity Lithium Ion chemistry. (We recently operated > a > > D10 for 4 hours on its internal battery.) As you may know, Lithium Ion > > batteries must be protected from an overcharge condition. This protection > > is redundantly provided by hardware and software in the D10 electronics, > and > > by a special safety circuit inside the battery. > > > > Our battery manufacturer has just informed us that some batteries may have > > been manufactured with the internal safety circuit miswired, which would > > compromise this redundant protection. This manufacturing error was > probably > > confined to the most recent lot of batteries, most of which have been > > quarantined at our facility. We have worked with our battery vendor to > > requalify his manufacturing process and to establish an additional final > > test (which we will duplicate here) to ensure that new batteries are > > properly manufactured. You are receiving this letter because it is likely > > that the battery in your EFIS is from the lot with the manufacturing > error. > > > > While the probability of a problem is very low as it would still require > two > > hardware and/or software failures, safety demands that we ask you not to > fly > > your EFIS-D10 unless the battery has been removed. Directions for > removing > > the battery are given below. > > > > We are offering you two alternatives for making sure you have a good > battery > > in your EFIS: One, you can return your EFIS to us, at our expense, and we > > will verify the battery, replace if necessary, and ship it back to you > > within two days. Second, we can send you a new battery as they become > > available to us from the manufacturer. After replacing the battery, we > ask > > that you ship the old battery to us for remanufacturing. > > > > Directions for removing the battery: > > The battery is removed from the back of the unit (the end opposite the > > display.) The battery is behind a door held on by three hex screws. DO > NOT > > REMOVE the two Philips head screws that hold the back cover on the EFIS. > > This could affect your calibration. Remove the three hex screws and the > > battery cover. The battery can be disconnected by separating the two > > connector pieces. Gently pull the battery out of the EFIS. If a new > > battery is not available, the cover can be replaced and the three hex > screws > > re-inserted. If a new battery is available, slide it in with the "bump" > up > > or away from the case and then mate the connectors. Then replace the back > > cover. > > > > We believe that this is sufficiently important that we request you phone > or > > email us your preferred option for doing this inspection. Otherwise we > will > > telephone you next week. We will ship you a new battery at our expense > > within the next two weeks if this is your preferred option. > > > > We sincerely apologize for the inconvenience this will cause you. One of > > our primary goals is to improve the safety of aviation, and any issue with > > our products that compromises safety will be immediately brought to your > > attention. If you have any complaints or comments about our handling of > > this issue, or any other issue with our products, please call me at > > 425-402-4334. > > > > Thank you, > > > > > > John Torode > > President, > > Dynon Avionics > > > > > > > > > > > > --- > > > > > > > Buy Ink Cartridges & Refill Kits for Your Epson at Myinks.com > Free shipping on orders $50 or more to the US and Canada. > http://www.c1tracking.com/l.asp?cid=5705&lp=home/epson.asp > http://us.click.yahoo.com/brYXfA/_xWGAA/ySSFAA/1yWplB/TM > > > Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing > www.vansaircraft.net > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Constant Speed vs. Fixed Pitch
Date: Jul 25, 2003
> >I am building an RV-8 with a O-360, Lasar. Is the Constant speed worth >the $5000.00. What am I giving up? How do you guys with the fixed pitch >Sensenich Metal Props like them? > >Rich Crosley >Palmdale,CA I am very satisfied with the Sensenich, but on my airplane it is pitched at 83", which is pretty fine for the RV8. There is a reason I chose this pitch: I live where the density altitude is (right now as I'm typing this)...over 9,000'. I lose some top end speed, but I still get 200mph at 8,000' on a cool day and 2700 rpm. I typically cruise at 2550 to 2600, at get from A to B averaging in the mid 180's. I also like the dirt simple maintenance on the fixed prop. Still, to truly get the most out of your engine and airplane, you cannot be without the C/S. It's a transmission for your airplane. We fixed pitch guys drive around in one gear, and chose the gear for our typical flight profile. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: Com/Nav Antenna Connectors
Date: Jul 25, 2003
BNC almost universally, at least as far as I've seen. Most avionics harnesses seem to get wired so that there's a short length of coax terminated with a male BNC connector. You just wire up a female-female cable from it to the male connector on your antenna. )_( Dan RV-7 N714D http://www.rvproject.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Roger Evenson" <revenson(at)comcast.net> Subject: RV-List: Com/Nav Antenna Connectors > > What kind of antenna cable connectors are used for Com and Nav radios? Is there consistency among manufacturers? > Roger, Tucson. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 25, 2003
From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Constant Speed vs. Fixed Pitch
Totally false (most of the time) :-) Jerry RV_8 Pilot wrote: > > CS prop out performs fixed pitch most of the time - high, low, fast, slow. > Also, 150/160-hp -8's do just fine. > > Bryan Jones -8, 530 hrs, 160-hp, CS > Pearland, Texas > > > >>Jerry, >> >>Hmmm...this is interesting...my understanding was just the opposite. I >>thought that C.S. props had a big advantage at lower altitudes in that they >>can be run full throttle without overspeeding the engine, whereas most F.P. >>cruise props have to be up around 10K' (give or take depending on the >>pitch) >From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> >>Subject: Re: RV-List: Constant Speed vs. Fixed Pitch >> >> >> >>In low level cruise where most of us fly in RVs [C.S. props] have >>absolutely no advantage. They have a slight advantage and are a little bit >>more fuel efficient at higher altitude. >> >>Jerry > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List:crankshaft oil plugs - was Re: STD-1211
Date: Jul 25, 2003
There has been lots about this in the achieves, because it is such a critical item to safety I thought it should be run by again. The new Lycomings with the hollow cranks are set up to run either props, fixed or constant speed. When they arrive from the factory both the front and rear plugs are installed in the crank. Also the governor line from the front to the rear of the engine is in place. It has a cover were the governor mounts and this has a slot built into it that releives the oil pressure that would otherwise build up between the two plugs in the front of the crankshaft. To run the fixed pitch on a factory new just bolt the prop on, however if the governor line is removed and the holes are plugged then the front plug has to be removed and the rear plug either removed or punctured to relieve the pressure and a new plug installed in the front. To run a constant speed the front plug is removed and the governor installed in place of the cover and you are all set. The check list would be: Fixed pitch with governor line installed, make sure that it has the proper cover on the governor adapter with the slot in it. Fixed pitch without governor line the rear plug must be removed or punctured If the engine is other than factory new all of the above must be verified. Aero Sport engines are set up to the customer's requirements before being shipped. In any case the pressure has to be removed between the plugs when running a fixed pitch or the front plug can be blown out and all of the oil would be lost in a matter of minutes. This pressure can exceed 100 psi on take-off when the engine is not properly warmed up. Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C. RV6 20383 ----- Original Message ----- From: "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> Subject: Re: RV-List:crankshaft oil plugs - was Re: STD-1211 > > Y'all, > > This is pretty important bit of information for it to be all bumbled > up. Bumbled mostly by Lycoming! What a stupid design flaw. > > I don't remember a back of the crankshaft plug, I can't even recall how one > gets to the back of the crankshaft. (My recall of everything is > deteriorating, however!) I do remember removing the oil line and plugging > the holes. > > If it has run 110 hours, is all okay? Ya got me worrying. > > Off to Oshkosh now.... > > K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne > RV6-a N7HK flying! > PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 25, 2003
From: Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov>
Subject: Inverted Diesel Test Run
Interesting news for us RV folks. The DeltaHawk folks have just fired up an inverted version of their 160+ HP 2-stroke diesel in the test stand. http://www.deltahawkengines.com/index.htm This looks like it could be a very nice engine for an RV. Weight and price appear to be on par with a Lycoming. Fuel economy makes it very tempting indeed, especially if you haul some car diesel to the hangar. :-) The performance at high altitude also makes this engine tempting. I wonder if you can add the intercooler that boosts the output to 200 HP after the fact? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Glasgow" <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Gyros
Date: Jul 26, 2003
Does anyone have any experience with Falcon AH and DG. I understand they are made in China and are clones of the RC Allen gyros. They are guaranteed for 1 year but not TSO'd. Any INFO would be greatly appreciated. Steve Glasgow ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Subject: Re: Marvel Schebler
Date: Jul 21, 2003
Great contribution, Bill! That has been added to my engine library.----Now, does anybody have a similar article on Slick Magnetos?------Thanx! Cheers!!---Henry Hore ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 26, 2003
From: eregensburg <eregensburg(at)triad.rr.com>
Subject: OSH - flying in Wed or Thr
Anyone going up to OSH later in the week ? I am thinking of leaving Wed or Thursday - looking for some company enroute Ed RV6A - N925RV Greensboro, NC 336-275-3009 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 26, 2003
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: Marvel Schebler
Elsa & Henry wrote: > > > Great contribution, Bill! That has been added to my engine library.----Now, > does anybody have a similar article on Slick Magnetos?------Thanx! Try this one: http://www.eaa49.av.org/techart/slick01.htm Sam Buchanan ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 26, 2003
Subject: Re: Constant Speed vs. Fixed Pitch
From: czechsix(at)juno.com
Guys, One other comment I have on the C.S. vs. F.P. debate....I keep hearing the old cliche argument that having a F.P. prop is like driving a car with only one gear. This gets a bit tiring because IMHO this is really stretching things a bit....if this were true, fixed pitch props would not exist on airplanes any more than cars without transmissions (or only one gear). I don't know about everybody else out there but I have two stick-shift vehicles in my driveway, and to get either of them moving in high gear (or "cruise" configuration, to make the analogy with a F.P. cruise prop) is just about impossible. If you don't mind burning up the clutch and taking 5 minutes to go 0-60, you could do it....but in the real world a car like this would be completely impractical, and for all but the vehicles with really big engines, just about impossible to drive anywhere that requires stop-n-go operations (like a city for example). A F.P. prop on the other hand does remarkably well considering that it's "stuck in a single gear". True it may not launch you off the runway like an F-18 off a catapault but it still accelerates a lot better than any car I've tried to start out in 5th gear. And even if it didn't, the analogy would still be poor because the airplane spends the vast majority of it's time in the air, not starting and stopping to the same extent that your average drive to the grocery store requires. I still think a C.S. prop would be cool, and would like to have one some day if I can find a way to justify spending the money over other competing needs in my household....but I expect to enjoy a lot of hours in my RV with the F.P. bolted to the nose and don't think it's as bad as some folks make it out to be. If you're still trying to make the F.P. vs C.S. decision, and money is an issue, I'd recommend getting an engine that is set up for F.P. but can be easily converted for C.S. operation. Upgrading down the road isn't that hard to do. FWIW... --Mark Navratil Cedar Rapids, Iowa RV-8A N2D painting... The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand! Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER! ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Dimpling nutplates
From: Allan.James(at)hstna.com
Date: Jul 26, 2003
18, 2001) at 07/26/2003 04:59:20 PM, Serialize complete at 07/26/2003 04:59:20 PM Listers; I'm getting ready to put the nut plates onto the trim tab reinforcement plate, and have a dumb question. I'm assuming the holes on the nutplates have to be dimpled for the flush rivets, but the first one I did seems to bend the end of the nutplate. Am I right in that these must be dimpled. I haven't been able to find any reference to this in the archives, nor in the instructions. Thanks in advance, Allan James RV7A QB - Elevators N322AR ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: Dimpling nutplates
Date: Jul 26, 2003
Buy some NAS1097AD3-3.5 (or whatever length you need) rivets from Van's (i.e. 1/8 of a pound for like $3). Those suckers require a much shallower countersink/dimple than conventional AN426AD3-3.5 rivets. The idea is that instead of dimpling, you machine countersink...but these rivet heads only require a few turns by hand to get a countersink wide and deep enough. Works great on material .032 and thinner, where machine countersinking is iffy at best. Anywhere you've got nutplates, these NAS1097s can come in really handy. Wish I started using them long before I did! )_( Dan RV-7 N714D http://www.rvproject.com ----- Original Message ----- From: <Allan.James(at)hstna.com> Subject: RV-List: Dimpling nutplates > > Listers; > > I'm getting ready to put the nut plates onto the trim tab > reinforcement plate, and have a dumb question. I'm assuming the holes on > the nutplates have to be dimpled for the flush rivets, but the first one I > did seems to bend the end of the nutplate. Am I right in that these must > be dimpled. I haven't been able to find any reference to this in the > archives, nor in the instructions. > > Thanks in advance, > Allan James > RV7A QB - Elevators > N322AR > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Graham Potts" <graham.potts(at)btconnect.com>
Subject: Re: Dimpling Nutplates
Date: Jul 27, 2003
I bought a bag of NAS1097 rivets for this and other places where flush rivets are used to fix a nutplate in place. You can make a countersink for these rivets in fairly thin skins using a hole deburring tool - it only needs a very shallow countersink. Graham RV8 Wings (Fuel Tanks) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Subject: Re: Marvel Schebler
Date: Jul 21, 2003
Another great contribution, this one from Sam re magnetos! (Hey Sam, this is becoming a habit! First the thanks for your warning on the Cleveland brake snafu and now my thanks re the Magneto info!) Way to Go!! Cheers!!-----Henry Hore ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net>
Subject: Re: Constant Speed vs. Fixed Pitch
Date: Jul 26, 2003
> > Guys, > > > A F.P. prop on the other hand does remarkably well considering that it's > "stuck in a single gear". True it may not launch you off the runway like > an F-18 off a catapault but it still accelerates a lot better than any > car I've tried to start out in 5th gear. And even if it didn't, the > analogy would still be poor because the airplane spends the vast majority > of it's time in the air, not starting and stopping to the same extent > that your average drive to the grocery store requires. > > I still think a C.S. prop would be cool, and would like to have one some > day if I can find a way to justify spending the money over other > competing needs in my household....but I expect to enjoy a lot of hours > in my RV with the F.P. bolted to the nose and don't think it's as bad as > some folks make it out to be. Have you ever noticed how folks with constant speeds actually use them. They take off at the higher RPM their prop allows them, then the bring the RPM back to where mine already was. The big advantage exists for about 20 seconds or so. Fly with a Bonanza sometime. You have the choice of throttling back to about 2100 RPM (fixed pitch), or outclimbing them so bad they won't see you for long. They never complain about the poor performance of a fixed pitch. I have flown with a lot of RV's with constant speeds, and have never had a problem keeping up. Having said all that, though, I would enjoy the more spectacular runway performance and more relaxed cruise RPM of a constant speed, and I may well do it some day when my ship comes in. Larry Pardue Carlsbad, NM RV-6 N441LP Flying http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve J Hurlbut" <sjhdcl(at)kingston.net>
Subject: Re: Dimpling nutplates
Date: Jul 26, 2003
I use NAS1097 rivets well. If you do dimple the nutplates they will bow a bit to prevent them from sitting flush. After dimpling them, take a flat pair of pliers and straighten them out 1 side at a time. It is much faster and easier to use NAS1097 rivets. Get yourself a selection of them. I have 3-3, 3-3.5, 3-4, and 3-4.5. Saves time and a bit of heart ache in places. Steve RV7A Almost airworthy Off to Oshkosh now. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Dimpling nutplates > > Buy some NAS1097AD3-3.5 (or whatever length you need) rivets from Van's > (i.e. 1/8 of a pound for like $3). Those suckers require a much shallower > countersink/dimple than conventional AN426AD3-3.5 rivets. > > The idea is that instead of dimpling, you machine countersink...but these > rivet heads only require a few turns by hand to get a countersink wide and > deep enough. Works great on material .032 and thinner, where machine > countersinking is iffy at best. > > Anywhere you've got nutplates, these NAS1097s can come in really handy. > Wish I started using them long before I did! > > )_( Dan > RV-7 N714D > http://www.rvproject.com > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: <Allan.James(at)hstna.com> > To: > Subject: RV-List: Dimpling nutplates > > > > > > Listers; > > > > I'm getting ready to put the nut plates onto the trim tab > > reinforcement plate, and have a dumb question. I'm assuming the holes on > > the nutplates have to be dimpled for the flush rivets, but the first one I > > did seems to bend the end of the nutplate. Am I right in that these must > > be dimpled. I haven't been able to find any reference to this in the > > archives, nor in the instructions. > > > > Thanks in advance, > > Allan James > > RV7A QB - Elevators > > N322AR > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-7 Trim Access Plate
Date: Jul 26, 2003
I am working on installing the electronic trim in the elevator and the access plate has 7 nutplates for what appears to be flush screws. The flush screws appear to be too long. I don't want to drive the screw beyond the end of the nut plate do I? Is it possible that I just have the wrong screws? Also, anyone out there have an electric trim installed alongside a manual trim? I'm thinking I might want to add the manual trim now if it's possible to have both. I prefer the manual over the electronic since you can "feel" what's going on a bit better. Karie Daniel Sammamish, WA RV-7A QB ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wayne R. Couture" <commando@cox-internet.com>
Subject: Re: Com/Nav Antenna Connectors
Date: Jul 27, 2003
IMHO, "Amphenol" makes the best RF connectors on the market. It does take some expertise to put them on correctly but well worth the trouble. Wayne ----- Original Message ----- From: "Roger Evenson" <revenson(at)comcast.net> Subject: RV-List: Com/Nav Antenna Connectors > > What kind of antenna cable connectors are used for Com and Nav radios? Is there consistency among manufacturers? > Roger, Tucson. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 27, 2003
From: Mark Phillips <ripsteel(at)edge.net>
Subject: Re: Dimpling nutplates
I ground a flat on the side of a set of dimpling dies almost in to the dimple recess, then polished it smooth- using your C-frame, carefully line up the flat side of the dies with the threaded boss on the nutplate and dimple. Works "most" of the time! From The PossumWorks in TN Mark Phillips Allan.James(at)hstna.com wrote: > > Listers; > > I'm getting ready to put the nut plates onto the trim tab > reinforcement plate, and have a dumb question. I'm assuming the holes on > the nutplates have to be dimpled for the flush rivets, but the first one I > did seems to bend the end of the nutplate. Am I right in that these must > be dimpled. I haven't been able to find any reference to this in the > archives, nor in the instructions. > > Thanks in advance, > Allan James > RV7A QB - Elevators > N322AR > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Jul 27, 2003
Subject: Re: Dimpling nutplates
Rather than dimpling platenuts, I normally countersunk them. > > > > Listers; > > > > I'm getting ready to put the nut plates onto the trim tab > > reinforcement plate, and have a dumb question. I'm assuming the holes on > > the nutplates have to be dimpled for the flush rivets, but the first one I > > did seems to bend the end of the nutplate. Am I right in that these must > > be dimpled. I haven't been able to find any reference to this in the > > archives, nor in the instructions. ****** Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA) RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99 http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a ****** ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 27, 2003
Subject: [ John Starn ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: John Starn Subject: Rocket Wheel Pant Mod http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/jhstarn@earthlink.net.07.27.03/index.html o Main Photo Share Index http://www.matronics.com/photoshare o Submitting a Photo Share If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the following information along with your email message and files: 1) Email List or Lists that they are related to: 2) Your Full Name: 3) Your Email Address: 4) One line Subject description: 5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic: 6) One-line Description of each photo or file: Email the information above and your files and photos to: pictures(at)matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 27, 2003
Subject: [ John Starn ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: John Starn Subject: Cockpit Air Vents http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/jhstarn@earthlink.net.1.07.27.03/index.html o Main Photo Share Index http://www.matronics.com/photoshare o Submitting a Photo Share If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the following information along with your email message and files: 1) Email List or Lists that they are related to: 2) Your Full Name: 3) Your Email Address: 4) One line Subject description: 5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic: 6) One-line Description of each photo or file: Email the information above and your files and photos to: pictures(at)matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DJB6A(at)cs.com
Date: Jul 28, 2003
Subject: Re: UPSAT Buyout by Garmin
Interesting? More like, very scary! Been away and just saw the news this morning. I should receive my wired UPSAT package this week. SL15M, CNX80, SL60 & SL70R Hope I don't end up with very expensive ballast! Dave Burnham RV6A wiring ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 28, 2003
From: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Re: UPSAT Buyout by Garmin
What I'm hoping is that the most home builder friendly warranty policy of UPSAT doesn't go away. Garmin follows suit with other avionics manufacturers in that the warranty starts with the date of purchase. UPSAT's warranty starts with the installation or first flight. This is my understanding of the situation, someone feel free to correct me if I'm off base on this. Mike Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR, 13B in gestation mode RV-9A Empennage > >Interesting? More like, very scary! Been away and just saw the news this >morning. I should receive my wired UPSAT package this week. SL15M, CNX80, >SL60 & >SL70R > >Hope I don't end up with very expensive ballast! > >Dave Burnham >RV6A >wiring ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 28, 2003
Subject: Comm Question
From: Edward Christian <edchristian(at)knology.net>
I have a RV-6 purchased from builder who lost medical. Only have 10 hrs on it. Initially, it had a KING KX-125 Comm/NAV. The NAV worked fine but the Comm would only receive but no transmission. I was planning on changing radios anyway so I thought maybe it was the radio. Installed a GARMIN 300 Comm/GPS. GPS works fine but the Comm is having the same problem. I did note that on both radios, when you PTT, I did get a TX symbol in the radio itself. I checked Comm antenna with meter OK. I suspect there could be a problem with the push-to-talk button or headset jacks. Anybody out there with any advice on how to trouble shoot this would be much appreciated! Ed ___________________ edchristian(at)knology.net ___________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Taylor" <rv7(at)cox.net>
Subject: Trim tab bends
Date: Jul 28, 2003
Does anyone have an easy method for bending the trim tab skins? I've messed up 2 so far and the 3rd is on order. I prefer to make the bends and not make ribs. I used the method from the Orndorff empennage video which is to use a v-jig and a wedge but the wedge moves inside the skin making a bow in the bend. Any detailed pics are appreciated. -David Taylor Warner Robins, GA Empennage/Wings N207DT reserved ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
Subject: Comm Question
Date: Jul 28, 2003
How did you check the comm antenna? Is it grounded well? How about the coax lines/connectors? Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN RV6-A N66AP 329 hours www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson > Installed a GARMIN 300 Comm/GPS. GPS works fine but the Comm > is having the same problem. I did note that on both radios, > when you PTT, I did > get a TX symbol > in the radio itself. I checked Comm antenna with meter OK. I suspect > there could be a problem with > the push-to-talk button or headset jacks. > > Anybody out there with any advice on how to trouble shoot > this would be > much appreciated! > > Ed ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 28, 2003
From: Steven Eberhart <newtech(at)newtech.com>
Subject: Re: Trim tab bends
About the time I did mine, there was a thread about it on this list. I ended up taking one of the suggestions and didn't even try to bend the tabs. Cut them off and made up separate end ribs and riveted them in like we do for all of the control surfaces. Worked perfectly and looks much better than the rather cheap looking tabs (IMHO) Steve Eberhart RV-7A - just finished riveting the bottom skins on the first wing panel. N14SE reserved David Taylor wrote: > > Does anyone have an easy method for bending the trim tab skins? I've messed up 2 so far and the 3rd is on order. I prefer to make the bends and not make ribs. I used the method from the Orndorff empennage video which is to use a v-jig and a wedge but the wedge moves inside the skin making a bow in the bend. Any detailed pics are appreciated. > > -David Taylor > Warner Robins, GA > Empennage/Wings N207DT reserved > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RVator" <rv7a(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Trim tab bends
Date: Jul 28, 2003
On my second set I started the bends with the hand seamers. They came out ok. But if it even looked like it wasn't going to work I was going to the rib approach. Have seen some in this area with ribs and personally feel it makes a better looking installation. Jim Thorne 7A-QB CHD ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Taylor" <rv7(at)cox.net> Subject: RV-List: Trim tab bends > > Does anyone have an easy method for bending the trim tab skins? I've messed up 2 so far and the 3rd is on order. I prefer to make the bends and not make ribs. I used the method from the Orndorff empennage video which is to use a v-jig and a wedge but the wedge moves inside the skin making a bow in the bend. Any detailed pics are appreciated. > > -David Taylor > Warner Robins, GA > Empennage/Wings N207DT reserved > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 28, 2003
From: "R. Perry McConnell" <rpm(at)rpmpc.com>
Subject: Re: Comm Question
If PTT lights the TX, then the circuit telling the radio to transmit is ok. Possible bad connections / broken wires / or dead circuits: #1) Mike to radio #2) Radio transmit circuit #3) Radio to antenna #4) Dead antenna If you've got the same symptom on two radios, #2 is (probably!) eliminated. (there is a very small, but positive & non-zero-probability that the transmit circuits for both radios were dead, leaving you with the same symptom for two different radios) If you can receive, the antenna's not dead, and the radio to antenna connection should check ok. Most probable -- check the hot & ground connections from your jack to your radio input & frame ground. Don't just try to put a meter on them. Pull them, clean them (if possible) (move them back & forth otherwise) & tighten 'em down good. Second most probable -- try another headset to make sure that the mic connections in the headset to the jack plug haven't gone south. Hope this helps, Perry Edward Christian wrote: >Initially, it had a KING KX-125 Comm/NAV. >The NAV worked fine but the Comm would only receive but no transmission. >. . .Installed a GARMIN 300 Comm/GPS. . . .the Comm is having > >the same problem. I did note that on both radios, when you PTT, I did >get a TX symbol in the radio itself.. . . > > >Anybody out there with any advice on how to trouble shoot this would be much appreciated! > >Ed > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 28, 2003
From: "R. Perry McConnell" <rpm(at)rpmpc.com>
Subject: Re: Comm Question
Oh, yeah, & (duh! like I'm too dense to mention the obvious) make sure all your mic (hot) to ground impedences between you and the radio (headset, wires, jack, radio connector) are clean. As in infiinity. Bent contacts causing a short on the mic jack could cause the problem you're describing. Perry R. Perry McConnell wrote: > >If PTT lights the TX, then the circuit telling the radio to transmit is ok. >Possible bad connections / broken wires / or dead circuits: >#1) Mike to radio >#2) Radio transmit circuit >#3) Radio to antenna >#4) Dead antenna > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rquinn1(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 29, 2003
Subject: Re: Comm Question
Do you have an intercom system. If so your audio goes thru the intercom to both head sets. You may check the wiring in the audio part of the intercom. (if you have one) Rollie & Rod RV6A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: Comm Question
Date: Jul 29, 2003
Hi Ed, Having just finished wiring up my 2nd RV panel, and just doing the COMM/CD Player/Intercom/PTT/Jacks today, it's still pretty fresh in my mind. If the PTT yields at "Tx" than obviously that's working OK, however it doesn't mean that the rest of the MIC jack is wired right. I would check to make sure that the MIC jacks are wired correctly. They can do some pretty funky things since the PTT basically uses a ground to switch. If they check out OK, then make sure all the coax connectors are good on the cables. Quite a few times when people are installing BNC connectors, they will be a piece of the shielding touching the conductor-this causes problems too. Take a multi-meter and make absolutely sure that the center conductor is still insulated from the shielding on both ends. If the BNC connectors are the "twist on" and not the crimped type, this is a high suspect area. Last but not least, look at the antenna itself. Is it a whip or wing tip?? I have both in my currently flying -6, and both work, although the whip is FAR superior in both tx and rx. Check the antenna to make sure it has a good ground plane, etc.. Other than that, look for those pesky little gremlins! Good luck, Stein Bruch RV6, N664SB - 130hrs RV6, N4YU - Finishing -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Edward Christian Subject: RV-List: Comm Question I have a RV-6 purchased from builder who lost medical. Only have 10 hrs on it. Initially, it had a KING KX-125 Comm/NAV. The NAV worked fine but the Comm would only receive but no transmission. I was planning on changing radios anyway so I thought maybe it was the radio. Installed a GARMIN 300 Comm/GPS. GPS works fine but the Comm is having the same problem. I did note that on both radios, when you PTT, I did get a TX symbol in the radio itself. I checked Comm antenna with meter OK. I suspect there could be a problem with the push-to-talk button or headset jacks. Anybody out there with any advice on how to trouble shoot this would be much appreciated! Ed ___________________ edchristian(at)knology.net ___________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Trim tab bends
Date: Jul 28, 2003
Just curious, have you bent the tabs on the elevator skin yet? How did those turn out? The reason I ask is because the plans have pictures of a the wedge and some large C clamps holding the skin to the bench. I am in this exact same spot right now and don't want to screw this up since I have so many hours invested in the skin, stiffeners and trim access. Karie Daniel RV-7A QB ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Taylor" <rv7(at)cox.net> Subject: RV-List: Trim tab bends > > Does anyone have an easy method for bending the trim tab skins? I've messed up 2 so far and the 3rd is on order. I prefer to make the bends and not make ribs. I used the method from the Orndorff empennage video which is to use a v-jig and a wedge but the wedge moves inside the skin making a bow in the bend. Any detailed pics are appreciated. > > -David Taylor > Warner Robins, GA > Empennage/Wings N207DT reserved > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James Jula" <jmjula(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Trim tab bends
Date: Jul 28, 2003
Use the stickiest double sided tape you can find, and install it between the wooden wedges and the skin for both pieces. This helps keep the wedges from shifting. You can also drill a hole through both blocks of wood and insert a drill bit or other to lock the two pieces together on the end that is accessible. Then clamp as well as you can on both ends. Before you get out the hammer, make the bends manually as far as possible with your fingers. Then you can use a piece of wood or medium sized dowel to slowly hammer it into place. Going slow also helps avoid movement of the wedges. It is also a good idea to radius the sides of the wedges to match the inside bend radius of the tab. Best of luck, James -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of David Taylor Subject: RV-List: Trim tab bends Does anyone have an easy method for bending the trim tab skins? I've messed up 2 so far and the 3rd is on order. I prefer to make the bends and not make ribs. I used the method from the Orndorff empennage video which is to use a v-jig and a wedge but the wedge moves inside the skin making a bow in the bend. Any detailed pics are appreciated. -David Taylor Warner Robins, GA Empennage/Wings N207DT reserved ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Graham Potts" <graham.potts(at)btconnect.com>
Subject: Trim tab bends
Date: Jul 29, 2003
Well, there is not much I can add to the answers you have had on this already. It's just good to hear somebody else have 3 goes at the trim tab. I know precisely what you mean. I had three goes at the left elevator as well and now have a good selection of scrap metal! In fact I still have the bow you talk about on both the trim tab and the elevator so they sort of bow away from each other. Luckily this is far more evident looking at the bottom than the top. I decided in the end to just move on as that tiny area of the aeroplane was starting to get me down! If I were doing it again I would go straight for the mini rib idea others have mentioned. I may well order the whole lot again at a later stage and do it again but at the time I was getting really fed up with it all! Good luck! Graham ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com>
"vansairforce"
Subject: Tire Wear
Date: Jul 29, 2003
All the talk recently about tire wear has me befuddled... I have not had ANY of the problems with the Aero Trainers that a lot of people are reporting... I have 115 hours and 258 landings in 15 months on my kit supplied Aero Trainers, and I still have A LOT of life left in them... I have posted some pictures of my tires here: http://www.vondane.com/rv8a/new/index.htm The pictures are not great, but you can trust me when I say the tires are perfectly fine, and will probably last another 100 hours, at least! If anyone has some new AT's they are not going to install on their RV's, let me know... I'll take them! -Bill VonDane RV-8A - 115 hrs www.vondane.com www.creativair.com www.epanelbuilder.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 29, 2003
From: Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov>
Subject: Elevator skin tabs (was: Trim tab bends)
> >Just curious, have you bent the tabs on the elevator skin yet? How did those >turn out? The reason I ask is because the plans have pictures of a the wedge >and some large C clamps holding the skin to the bench. I am in this exact >same spot right now and don't want to screw this up since I have so many >hours invested in the skin, stiffeners and trim access. I made a wedge-shaped wooden block that fit snugly against the stiffeners. The block had a "handle" that extended inboard along the place where the rear (trim tab) spar would eventually go. I inserted the block, match-drilled it to the spar holes in the upper and lower skin, and then Clecoed it into place. I then clecoed the front spar to keep the skin shut. I then bent the tabs into position without a problem. To get the tabs into their final position, I finished the last few degrees of the bend using a body hammer and a bucking bar as a dolly. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 29, 2003
From: Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Tire Wear
RV-List message posted by: "Bill VonDane" All the talk recently about tire wear has me befuddled... I have not had ANY ofthe problems with the Aero Trainers that a lot of people are reporting... Ihave 115 hours and 258 landings in 15 months on my kit supplied Aero Trainers,and I still have A LOT of life left in them... One two cent opinion: Tire wear, like gear shimmy can be, to borrow a phrase from my builders manual, a "rather nebulous thing". It occurs on some airplanes and not on others. Just think about all the variables the builder must consider and deal with when locating and installing the gear weldments on the 6A slow build series. The earlier kits required the builder to drill out the hole for the bolt that attaches the gear leg to the weldment. Rotated slightly off in either leg either thru vibration or imprecise measurement is an open invitation for toe-in problems. You know how easy it is for a drill bit to "walk" under the best of circumstances. Keeping a drill bit on a straight and narrow track through a thick piece of round and hardened steel is no small task. I doubt very much that every RV builder has the same skill level, the same exacting standards, the same attention to detail, much less that all builders are in possession the same tool quality. Until that unlikely day occcurs, I don't see anything unusual at all about random and excessive tire wear. Rick Galati RV-6A FWF --------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott Brown" <scottbrown(at)precisionjet.com>
Subject: RV4 kit
Date: Jul 29, 2003
Listers, Does anyone have an RV4 kit or parts of it for sale? Please respond off list at: scottbrown(at)precisionjet.com Cheers, Scott ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BBreckenridge(at)att.net
Subject: RV-10
Date: Jul 29, 2003
As promised, the RV-10 kit became a catalog item today! http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/orderfrm.htm Think I'll fill out the form and just mosey on down with my deposit.... Bruce Breckenridge Clackamas, OR ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo(at)verizon.net>
"Rocket List"
Subject: Oil Cooler Leak
Date: Jul 29, 2003
It looks like my oiler cooler has sprung a leak. 1. If so, can it be fixed? 2. What is the cost, fixed verse new (used?)? Any good ideas out there? Thanks, Tom Gummo Apple Valley, CA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rick Fogerson" <rickf(at)cableone.net>
Subject: Welding 4130 canopy frame
Date: Jul 29, 2003
Hi listers, I'm ready to fab the sliding canopy frame and am looking for a welder. The archives don't address acceptable welder and/or techniques for 4130 (other than keep the heat low). A local guy bought and used a cheep wire feed welder on his but I am a little more cautious since I don't know dittlety squat about welding. What do you guys say? Thanks, Rick Fogerson finishing RV3 Boise, ID ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com>
"vansairforce"
Subject: Re: Tire Wear
Date: Jul 29, 2003
Ok... I screwed up... I have to double check this today, but I am pretty sure I have the AirHawk tires and NOT the Aero Trainers... DOH! -Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: Bill VonDane Subject: Tire Wear All the talk recently about tire wear has me befuddled... I have not had ANY of the problems with the Aero Trainers that a lot of people are reporting... I have 115 hours and 258 landings in 15 months on my kit supplied Aero Trainers, and I still have A LOT of life left in them... I have posted some pictures of my tires here: http://www.vondane.com/rv8a/new/index.htm The pictures are not great, but you can trust me when I say the tires are perfectly fine, and will probably last another 100 hours, at least! If anyone has some new AT's they are not going to install on their RV's, let me know... I'll take them! -Bill VonDane RV-8A - 115 hrs www.vondane.com www.creativair.com www.epanelbuilder.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 29, 2003
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: Welding 4130 canopy frame
If you dont know welding, dont even try until you have some training. There is a big problem when welding things like a canopy frame. When you align the parts and weld, the parts will move, nless rigidly mounted, and even then they still move which can have a snow ball effect. You start on one end and by the time you finished on the other it is totally out of shape. I would just pay the money and have an expert do it right the first time. > >Hi listers, >I'm ready to fab the sliding canopy frame and am looking for a welder. The >archives don't address acceptable welder and/or techniques for 4130 (other >than keep the heat low). A local guy bought and used a cheep wire feed >welder on his but I am a little more cautious since I don't know dittlety >squat about welding. What do you guys say? > >Thanks, >Rick Fogerson >finishing RV3 >Boise, ID > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVer273sb(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 29, 2003
Subject: mag gear
fellow listers, Anyone know if a slick mag gear (non impulse) will work on the Ligjtspeed hall effect unit? Thanks, Stewart RV-4 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net>
Subject: Re: Oil Cooler Leak
Date: Jul 29, 2003
Hello Tom, Oil cooler leaks may or may not be fixable. it depends on the location and the type of leak., Are the leaks deep inside among the tubes? Cracked tubes or cracks in or on the tanks? The type of leak, burst tubes, wear oriented leaks, cracks at welds, or poor welding etc. If you have not sent the oil cooler in oil question back to the manufacturer? do consider sending it back to the source. They really should be the best people to deal with on stuff like this. If they are not people you feel you can trust to give you the right answers, crush the leaky oil cooler and buy a new one from some manufacturer or supplier that you feel you can trust and rely upon from this point on. Good luck, Jim in Kelowna ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo(at)verizon.net> Subject: RV-List: Oil Cooler Leak > > It looks like my oiler cooler has sprung a leak. > > 1. If so, can it be fixed? > 2. What is the cost, fixed verse new (used?)? > > Any good ideas out there? > > Thanks, > Tom Gummo > Apple Valley, CA > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott Brown" <scottbrown(at)precisionjet.com>
Subject: RV8 Tail
Date: Jul 29, 2003
If there is anyone out there that is selling an RV8 tail section, please contact me off-line at scottbrown(at)precisionjet.com thanks, Scott ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: mag gear
Date: Jul 29, 2003
Yes. If I remember correctly, the installation instructions even talk about doing exactly that. Mike Robertson >From: RVer273sb(at)aol.com >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: mag gear >Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 12:57:43 EDT > > >fellow listers, > Anyone know if a slick mag gear (non impulse) >will work on the Ligjtspeed hall effect unit? >Thanks, > Stewart RV-4 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jerry Isler" <jlisler(at)alltel.net>
Subject: Seat Upholstery
Date: Jul 29, 2003
Fellow Listers, I am in the process of trying to find a local upholstery shop to cover the seats for my RV-4. In talking with these people some questions have come up that I hope you can help with. First off, I have already purchased a leather hide from JART (see Trade-a-Plane) and foam seat cores from Oregon Aero so I do not want to send them off to be covered. What I need to know is: 1) Does your seat cushions have hard backs and bottoms in them or are they slip covers with no support? It appears a better job of covering can be done with these backs installed because it gives you something to pull the covering tight with and then an attachment point for the covering. These backs are hard card board or so it seems and would be covered with the same material as the seat so that it would have a finished look if you pulled the seat cushion out of it's frame. 2) How are your seats attached to the airframe? It appears Velcro attached to the cushions and to the seat backs / cabin floor would be the best way to go. 3) What kind of spacer did you use to raise the front seat? Oregon Aero seat cores sit flat on the floor as designed and are thick enough to clear the front spar. It is suggested to use hard styrofoam to get additional height. If this is used, how did you finish the foam to keep it from flaking? Did you cover it as the seats are covered? Thanks Jerry Isler Donalsonville, GA. RV-4 N455J ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 29, 2003
From: Chris W <chrisw3(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Welding 4130 canopy frame
Scott Bilinski wrote: > If you dont know welding, dont even try until you have some training. There is > a big problem when welding things like a canopy frame. When you align the parts > and weld, the parts will move, nless rigidly mounted, and even then they still > move which can have a snow ball effect. You start on one end and by the time > you finished on the other it is totally out of shape. I would just pay the > money and have an expert do it right the first time. Very good points. If Rick still wants to give it a try, I would I would suggest brazing. In my experience brazing is easier than welding. A well fitting brazed joint is as strong as welding and you don't need as much heat, a tiny bit heavier than welding though. If you are going to weld it, TIG welding is the best method for thin tubing. However, TIG welding is one of the more difficult welding skills to master and TIG welders are pretty expensive if you don't know some one who has one you can use. -- Chris Woodhouse 3147 SW 127th St. Oklahoma City, OK 73170 405-691-5206 chrisw(at)programmer.net N35 20.492' W97 34.342' "They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." -- Benjamin Franklin, 1759 Historical Review of Pennsylvania ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robin Wessel" <Robin.Wessel(at)verizon.net>
Subject: RE: RV-10
Date: Jul 29, 2003
I dropped off my deposit at 2 pm this afternoon at Van's and got assigned serial #40023. I am not sure if they have counted all of their first day OSH orders. Apparently, there were some eager builders wanting to get those coveted low serial #'s. Robin Wessel RV-6A, Tigard OR BBreckenridge(at)att.net As promised, the RV-10 kit became a catalog item today! <http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/orderfrm.htm> http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/orderfrm.htm Think I'll fill out the form and just mosey on down with my deposit.... Bruce Breckenridge Clackamas, OR ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net>
Subject: routing wire and bundling wire groups
Date: Jul 29, 2003
Hi Gang, While trying to group some wires together behind the control panel I have tried using a few things such as tie straps, (fell crow) SP? Finger sized clamps and the flat waxed wire tie cord. In each case adding new wires to the bundle was somehow or other quite cumbersome and time consuming. Yesterday I found a solution to this pesky problem. I cut short lengths (about 3 coils long) of automotive type of polyethylene spiral wrap. I have since cut the little sharp corners off each end of them so as to have even less trouble with tangles when putting them on the wire groups. I used a diameter that would be a good fit when the bundle was about full. These short lengths can be positioned at intervals along the bundle and be slid along the wire bundle pulling it together as you go. Adding new wires to the bundle is now quicker and easier. When done, the finished harness can be tied with what ever your choice of final tying product that suits the need, removing the temporary spirals as you go. A half dozen of these short lengths cost almost nothing and can be utilized on the next RV (A 10 maybe) you will be building ):-)! Right eh! I don't suppose I'm the first to think of this but I offer the hint for what it is worth. Jim in Kelowna ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Taylor" <rv7(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Trim tab bends
Date: Jul 29, 2003
Karie, I bought the kit already started and the left elevator bend was already completed. They did a very good job. I hope my next attempt on the trim tab comes out as well. Good luck! -David Taylor Warner Robins, GA Empennage RV-6A N207DT reserved ----- Original Message ----- From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: Trim tab bends > > Just curious, have you bent the tabs on the elevator skin yet? How did those > turn out? The reason I ask is because the plans have pictures of a the wedge > and some large C clamps holding the skin to the bench. I am in this exact > same spot right now and don't want to screw this up since I have so many > hours invested in the skin, stiffeners and trim access. > > Karie Daniel > RV-7A QB > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "David Taylor" <rv7(at)cox.net> > To: > Subject: RV-List: Trim tab bends > > > > > > Does anyone have an easy method for bending the trim tab skins? I've > messed up 2 so far and the 3rd is on order. I prefer to make the bends and > not make ribs. I used the method from the Orndorff empennage video which is > to use a v-jig and a wedge but the wedge moves inside the skin making a bow > in the bend. Any detailed pics are appreciated. > > > -David > Taylor > > Warner > Robins, GA > > > Empennage/Wings N207DT reserved > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com>
, , , , "David - O320 - Shani" ,
Subject: The O-320 D1A has been sold & taken away
Date: Jul 29, 2003
Thanks everyone... I wish I could sell you all an O-320, but I only had one. Ron was the first to reply and true to his word, came and got it. Sooooooo, the only engine I got left for sale is a 75 hp 2 stroke, 4 cylinder, McCullah motor (carb, prop hub, exhaust, & mag included). However I wouldn't recommend it for an RV, because it feels like it only weighs about 75 lbs. I got it in trade from "a friend" who says it was for a Military Drone, it has zero time, and it's used for gyro-planes mostly but they have been mounted on other planes like Sonerai's, Kit Foxes, etc... Hey make an offer, I got no use for it, and I'll let it go cheap (just something else I can tell my wife "I sold it!".... that makes her happy). Chuck ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 29, 2003
From: Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: Welding 4130 canopy frame
Hi Roger; The relatively small amount of welding in an RV-3 canopy frame is best done with light duty oxy-acetylene equipment. This should be available in better auto tool supply places and so on. A smaller set with half size tanks will be more than adequate. Oxy-acetylene welding is another one of those skills which requires a bit of knowledge and lots of practise. You can try and teach yourself, but far better to find a local EAA guy who knows welding and trading some riveting or whatever for welding lessons. Then practise..... There are also lots of EAA videos and books available about this kind of welding if you need to go the self-taught route. Maybe a local high school or trade school offers welding classes The RV-3 canopy frame consists (or it did when I made one 15 years or so ago) of a lot of small thin-wall tubing. This is actually a bit tricky to weld as it is easy to "melt through" so try and get the smallest welding tip sizes you can find - size 00 as I recall. The other option is to cut the material and find someone else to weld it, the small amount of welding won't take long. Fitting and bending the tubing does. The canopy frame is hardly a heavy duty structural item so no reason not to give it a try yourself. Jim Oke Winnipeg, MB RV-3 C-FIZM RV-6A C-GKGZ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rick Fogerson" <rickf(at)cableone.net> Subject: RV-List: Welding 4130 canopy frame > > Hi listers, > I'm ready to fab the sliding canopy frame and am looking for a welder. The archives don't address acceptable welder and/or techniques for 4130 (other than keep the heat low). A local guy bought and used a cheep wire feed welder on his but I am a little more cautious since I don't know dittlety squat about welding. What do you guys say? > > Thanks, > Rick Fogerson > finishing RV3 > Boise, ID > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net>
Subject: Re: Oil Cooler Leak
Date: Jul 29, 2003
Tom I would suggest you contact Pacific Oil Cooler Service 626 454 3172. They are located in El Monte, CA and are a F.A.A. approved facility, been in business since 1961 and cater to the experimental category. Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo(at)verizon.net> Subject: RV-List: Oil Cooler Leak > > It looks like my oiler cooler has sprung a leak. > > 1. If so, can it be fixed? > 2. What is the cost, fixed verse new (used?)? > > Any good ideas out there? > > Thanks, > Tom Gummo > Apple Valley, CA > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 29, 2003
Subject: [ Jim Cone ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Jim Cone Subject: Nice Straight Edge... http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/jimnbev@olypen.com.07.29.2003/index.html o Main Photo Share Index http://www.matronics.com/photoshare o Submitting a Photo Share If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the following information along with your email message and files: 1) Email List or Lists that they are related to: 2) Your Full Name: 3) Your Email Address: 4) One line Subject description: 5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic: 6) One-line Description of each photo or file: Email the information above and your files and photos to: pictures(at)matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ken Brooks" <kenbrooks(at)charter.net>
Subject: 8 Gear Leg Problem
Date: Jul 30, 2003
For you RV-8 builders out there -- any of you experience a problem with the fit of the U-803 bracket over the gear leg? The plans/drawing call for an .030" gap between the wear plate and the bracket after it's been torqued to 240 inch pounds. Our gap disappears by about 70 inch pounds and the bracket begins to bend by 100 inch pounds! Could my gear leg thickness be less than nominal? Could the bracket be milled to too great a depth? We plan to ask Ken Krueger at OSH when we go up this weekend, but thought some of you may have encountered something similar. I have checked the archives and didn't find any suggestions. Thanks in advance. Ken Brooks RV-8QB in progress N1903P reserved ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 30, 2003
From: Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov>
Subject: Re: routing wire and bundling wire groups
I have found that the best way to make up a harness is to temporarily mount a series of "hooks" where the harness will run. I typically use short lengths coat hanger wire for large hooks and 14 gauge copper house wire for small hooks. Almost any kind of easily-bent solid wire works fine as long as it does not have sharp ends or sharp edges. I make a loose 1 1/2 or 2 turn spiral for the "hook" that holds the wire bundle. I temporarily mount the hooks on every spot where I intend to mount a harness support. I also temporarily mount hooks using duct tape (or whatever) here and there where the harness branches off, but may not be tied to the structure. I thread the wiring though the hooks as I put it in place. Often, I'll replace a hook with a larger one as the bundle grows. When ALL the wiring is complete, I bundle it up and tie it down with whatever I have selected for the permanent support and/or sheathing. This method results in a VERY tidy and professional-looking harness. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 8 Gear Leg Problem
Date: Jul 30, 2003
or you RV-8 builders out there -- any of you experience a problem with >the fit of the U-803 bracket over the gear leg? The plans/drawing call >for an .030" gap between the wear plate and the bracket after it's been >torqued to 240 inch pounds. Our gap disappears by about 70 inch pounds >and the bracket begins to bend by 100 inch pounds! Could my gear leg >thickness be less than nominal? Could the bracket be milled to too >great a depth? We plan to ask Ken Krueger at OSH when we go up this >weekend, but thought some of you may have encountered something similar. >I have checked the archives and didn't find any suggestions. Thanks in >advance. > >Ken Brooks >RV-8QB in progress >N1903P reserved The gear legs on my -8 were both different in how they fit up. One went on nicely, while the other required some grinding on the inside of the U block to sit down properly. (The opposite of your problem.) The .030" gap was attained, but after the first 40 hours or so, they loosened up enough to require retorqueing...which is a huge pain. So, my recommendation, contrary to plans, is to crank those blocks down and disregard the gap. Try to achieve the specified torque as best you can. Ken may advise that you grind off some of the ends of the U blocks to alow the minimum specified torque value to be attained without bottoming out. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD 344 hrs. RV10 tailkit ordered > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 30, 2003
From: Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov>
Subject: Re: Trim tab bends
After I read Van's instructions on bending the trim tab edges, I thought to myself, "This looks much more complicated than it has to be." First, it is a heck of a lot easier to make the end bends BEFORE you make the trailing edge bend. You have MUCH better access to do the difficult edge bends if you make the simple trailing edge bend afterward instead of beforehand. You don't have to make a special wedge block. You don't have to go nuts clamping though the skin with a second wedge block. You simply "sharpen" one corner of your bench slightly (to match the trailing edge pre-bent angle) and clamp (and cleco) the skin to the bench (inside of the skin against the bench). Align the clecos so the center tang is parallel to the bend you are going to make. The clamp block is just a chunk of 2 x 6. Bend each tab down, in turn, easily and quickly against the bench top edge. When you make the trailing edge bend, you won't be able to bend it quite far enough to compensate for the spring back because the edge bends will limit the angle. After you have bent it as far as you can with your 2 x 6 "brake", just give it a series of very gentle taps with the dead blow hammer to take the bow out of the back portion of the skin. This resulted in a trim tab that looked good to me. Your mileage may vary. :-) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 30, 2003
From: Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca>
Subject: Re: Trim tab bends
Bill Dube wrote: > First, it is a heck of a lot easier to make the end bends BEFORE you make > the trailing edge bend. You have MUCH better access to do the difficult > edge bends if you make the simple trailing edge bend afterward instead of > beforehand. You don't have to make a special wedge block. You don't have to > go nuts clamping though the skin with a second wedge block. This would be a great idea, but requires that you have one of the kits that starts out as a lump of rock that you have to mine your own aluminum out of. My -7 tailkit came with the trailing edge bend already done on the trim tab. Another alternative that I haven't seen mentioned is to lop off the tabs with your handy-dandy shears, and to use some of that scrap aluminum Van sends to make little "ribs" for the ends of the tab. Yes, you'll end up with rivets showing on at least one side, but i've seen it make a clean trim tab on more than one RV. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 30, 2003
From: Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov>
Subject: Re: Trim tab bends
> >This would be a great idea, but requires that you have one of the kits >that starts out as a lump of rock that you have to mine your own >aluminum out of. My -7 tailkit came with the trailing edge bend already >done on the trim tab. They start it for you, but it is not fully bent. The instructions say to first complete the trailing edge bend, THEN bend the edge tabs. It is much easier to leave the trailing edge partially bent, like it came out of the box, and bend the edge tabs first. >Another alternative that I haven't seen mentioned is to lop off the tabs >with your handy-dandy shears, and to use some of that scrap aluminum Van >sends to make little "ribs" for the ends of the tab. Yes, you'll end up >with rivets showing on at least one side, but i've seen it make a clean >trim tab on more than one RV. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 30, 2003
From: Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov>
Subject: Re: Gyro overhauls
> >Can anyone advise me if they have ever done a gyro overhaul themselves >and what might be entailed. My used electric RC Allan, while I bench >run it monthly, precesses more than I think it should. I may overhaul >prior to installation. I took one apart, adjusted the bearings, then put it back together again successfully. It was a delicate task. It was similar to taking apart a giant, very complicated, watch. It would have been very easy to break something had I not been extremely careful. Also, I bought it on e-bay for $10, so I did not have much to lose if I screwed up. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Subject: Re: Marvel Schebler--& Slick Handling
Date: Jul 30, 2003
Sam Buchanan, graciously provided an interesting link at my request for information on Slick Magnetos in his reply post of 7/ 26 /03. It is a 5 page article titled "Slick Handling", basically on timing those items. But,-isn't it funny how some people go out of their way to make themselves perfectly clear by over-doing the description of what they are writing about, to the point that they completely screw up the original statement! Case in point: The author of the article, Chris Maida, on the second page is describing how to locate the No. 1 cylinder, (quote) "---On a Lycoming, No. 1 is the front cylinder on the right side of the engine,---" --Now if he had left that statement right there, it would have been correct as is, because we know what the right side (Starboard) of an aircraft is, as the right wing, right aileron, right nav light (Green),etc, etc. But no! He continues the above, (quote), "---viewed from the front of the plane (i.e., looking back toward the tail).--" -----So now I'm standing in font of the engine, looking toward the tail and my right side is now the port side of the engine!--- End of case in point! It's not the first publication I've seen that has screwed this up! A glaring example is an old book I have, "Aircraft Reciprocating Engines" EA ARE, a Jeppesen Sanderson Training Product, where on page 16 the cylinder layout titles for Lycomings and Continentals are interchanged! Thought you might be amused! Cheers!!--Henry Hore ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Subject: Re: Trim tab bends
Date: Jul 30, 2003
Reading these posts on trim tabs, makes me think how spoilt and lucky you -7 guys are! On my -6 kit (1995 vintage), we had to cut the trim tab out of the left elevator skin inboard end, and bend the end brackets on the elevator AND the trim tab. There was enough skin on the inboard edge of the panel but it was a tricky layout to allow enough for the bending of the end tabs. Managed to do it nicely without screwing it up. I don't know if you guys have the same situation: There are two pop-rivets that connect the bent-up tab to the bent-down tab one on the elevator and one the trim tab.- Make sure that these rivets are off-set from each other in your lay-out so they don't snag on each other. > They start it for you, but it is not fully bent. The instructions >say to first complete the trailing edge bend, THEN bend the edge tabs. It >is much easier to leave the trailing edge partially bent, like it came out >of the box, and bend the edge tabs first. Cheers!! ------Henry Hore ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rick Fogerson" <rickf(at)cableone.net>
Subject: Re: Welding 4130 canopy frame
Date: Jul 30, 2003
Hi Listers, I can see now I wasn't clear. I knew what I meant when I said " am looking for a welder". I meant someone in my area who welds for a living, not the equipment. Any how, I appreciate everyones response. I also reached Chuck Brietigam, (my RV guru) walking the grounds at Oshkosh by cell phone. I will pass along what he said for the benefit of anyone else deciding to build a slider. TIG was best using using ER80S2D rod although ER70S2D would work also, just not as well. He didn't even have to think about it. He also said wire feed adds to much weld material and wasn't as strong. Braseing could be done but with the same result. thanks again for everyones response, Rick Fogerson RV3 finish Boise, ID ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott Bilinski" <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Welding 4130 canopy frame <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com> > > If you dont know welding, dont even try until you have some training. > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-10
Date: Jul 31, 2003
> >So, who is going to start up the first RV-10 builder's web-site ? (So the >rest of us can follow along in the adventure.) > >Jim Oke >Winnipeg, MB >RV-3 >RV-6A I bought the domain RV-10.org for my future web page/builder's log. Don't expect to see anything soon though! Brian Denk RV8 N94BD RV-10 tail ordered ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Yet another new engine
Date: Jul 31, 2003
Listers, I found another new airplane engine manufacturer via Avweb at http://www.nagelengine.com/engine.html Looks pretty neat, if it ever actually gets produced and priced reasonably. Ok, so I'm not easily impressed by the new engine gurus out there. What ever happened to all those diesels that were supposed to revolutionize the industry? Still, the Nagel sure would be nice in the RV-10...it's a twelve banger! Brian Denk RV8 N94BD RV10 tailkit ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 31, 2003
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Hail damage
Just how big does hail have to be before it will damage a RV on the ground? Reason I ask is yesterday there was pea size hail around Oshkosh. Dont think any fell at OSH though. Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 31, 2003
From: Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org>
Subject: Re: Yet another new engine
> What ever happened to all those diesels that were supposed to revolutionize > the industry? They're supposed to revolutionize the industry in Europe, where fuel--especially avgas--is far more expensive than in the U.S. And they are. Have a look at any of the European magazines, and consider the Diamond DA42. But I don't think you're going to see a big switch to diesels in the U.S., at least not for a while. Tedd McHenry Surrey, BC ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 31, 2003
From: Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com>
Subject: Re: Hail damage
I don't know about the the minimum size (my guess would be 3/8 to 1/2"), but I saw a red RV-6 at the Whiteman transient ramp a couple of days ago that looked like a golf ball. Every upper skin on the airplane had significant damage. I was supprised the canopy wasn't cracked. I'd bet it flies just the same.... Laird RV-6 WHP > >Just how big does hail have to be before it will damage a RV on the ground? >Reason I ask is yesterday there was pea size hail around Oshkosh. Dont >think any fell at OSH though. > > >Scott Bilinski >Eng dept 305 >Phone (858) 657-2536 >Pager (858) 502-5190 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 31, 2003
From: terence.gannon(at)telus.net
Subject: Re: Yet another new engine
Tedd -- You said... "But I don't think you're going to see a big switch to diesels in the U.S., at least not for a while." Care to expand on that? Inquiring minds want to know... Terry in Calgary RV-6 S/N 24414 "Wings, Firewall" ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 31, 2003
Subject: Marvel Schebler--& Slick Handling
From: Gary Graham <beeb(at)teleport.com>
Thanks Henry for once again pointing out that: "The Paper does not refuse the Pen" Check out the paragraph that starts with: "Once you've carefully removed the magneto" Look at the last sentence in this paragraph. Are we talking about "Locking pin" here? mag vs locking pin? I was also not very clear on the rubber bushing retainer that was described as being part of the engine gear train. I thought that the rubber coupling was part of the mag, and the mag gear interfaced directly with the accessory gear in the engine??? Going on memory here. Is it working. Gary --------- From: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Marvel Schebler--& Slick Handling Sam Buchanan, graciously provided an interesting link at my request for information on Slick Magnetos in his reply post of 7/ 26 /03. It is a 5 page article titled "Slick Handling", basically on timing those items. But,-isn't it funny how some people go out of their way to make themselves perfectly clear by over-doing the description of what they are writing about, to the point that they completely screw up the original statement! Case in point: The author of the article, Chris Maida, on the second page is describing how to locate the No. 1 cylinder, (quote) "---On a Lycoming, No. 1 is the front cylinder on the right side of the engine,---" --Now if he had left that statement right there, it would have been correct as is, because we know what the right side (Starboard) of an aircraft is, as the right wing, right aileron, right nav light (Green),etc, etc. But no! He continues the above, (quote), "---viewed from the front of the plane (i.e., looking back toward the tail).--" -----So now I'm standing in font of the engine, looking toward the tail and my right side is now the port side of the engine!--- End of case in point! It's not the first publication I've seen that has screwed this up! A glaring example is an old book I have, "Aircraft Reciprocating Engines" EA ARE, a Jeppesen Sanderson Training Product, where on page 16 the cylinder layout titles for Lycomings and Continentals are interchanged! Thought you might be amused! Cheers!!--Henry Hore ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 31, 2003
Subject: Roll Over Structure
From: Gary Graham <beeb(at)teleport.com>
I have been thinking about the recent death of a fellow RVer and friend. It was reported that his neck was broken when his RV-4 fast back, ended up on its back in an off airport landing. I thought I remembered a custom bar (looking like the one in the RV-8) that was used in place of the "tower" roll over structure that Van's designed for the RV-4. Looking through my photos confirmed this. I remember that when the RV-4 and Rocket II, were what 2 place guys were building. There were many changes to the roll over structure showing up a flyins. At the time, I liked the looks of the curved top bar from the "Bakersfield Bunch". Going for function I ended up with the stock structure with a slightly increased surface area at the top. Now, every time I see a Rocket II or similar tandem seating airplane with a tipover canopy, I picture it upside down resting on whatever, and wondering if 200 pounds hanging in the straps has head room. Please don't get me wrong here. This is not a critical comment on any design or builder. I just wonder if my friend would have had a better chance if he had not replaced the full height roll over structure. Food for thought. Gary, RV-4 FB ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 31, 2003
From: Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org>
Subject: Re: Yet another new engine
> "But I don't think you're going to see a big switch to diesels in the U.S., at > least not for a while." > > Care to expand on that? Inquiring minds want to know... This from the hip, since I don't have the numbers in front of me. But the argument in favour of diesels in Europe is that the fuel costs savings (and possible--though unproven--lower maintenance cost) is enough to justify a higher purchase price for the diesel engines. This is for commercial operators. Because fuel prices in North America are much less (and the difference between avgas and jet fuel is less, too, I think), the numbers don't work out in favour of the diesel here, yet. Note that few if any of the diesels are advertising that they're cheaper than a Lycoming (in purchase price), only that their life-cycle cost is less for commercial operators. Once you allow for North American fuel prices, and for a private operator who logs fewer hours per year, there isn't a good cost argument for switching to diesel. Some people will choose diesel for other reasons, I expect. Perhaps just to try something different. Also, many of the diesels have turbo normalizing, or something similar, and that will be appealing to some North American customers. It's not that there's no reason to switch to diesel, just that cost probably isn't a good one if you're in North America. Tedd McHenry Surrey, BC ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 31, 2003
From: terence.gannon(at)telus.net
Subject: Re: Yet another new engine
Tedd -- "It's not that there's no reason to switch to diesel, just that cost probably isn't a good one if you're in North America." OK, I see what you're saying. I think that you and I may have read the same article in the most recent issue of the UK-based magazine 'Flyer'. They had some of their readers do a flight test of the new Diamond aircraft, and I was mighty impressed by what they had to say about the diesel, both from an *observed* fuel economy standpoint and also their experience with the FADEC. Impressed to the point where I think it's worth some time thinking about it as an alternative, and certainly doing some calculations with respect to payback based on the current cost differential between Jet A and Avgas. If I actually follow through with that, I'll publish whatever numbers I come up to the list. I suspect that we're only going to pay more for all types of fuels in the future (like in Europe), and also, we are going to be under ongoing pressure to make our aircraft quieter (also like in Europe), so we may want to look at their experience and hopefully benefit from it, in some way. Cheers... Terry in Calgary RV-6 S/N 24414 "Wings, Firewall" ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Subject: Re: Marvel Schebler--& Slick Handling
Date: Jul 30, 2003
Gary, now you've got me--I don't know! I have never taken a magneto off an engine (except a Lucas, off my BSA Golden Flash motorcycle that I owned 55 years ago) and anticipating I may have to take off the ones I have on my -6A sometime in the future, I asked for information on that topic and I only commented on the discrepancy I knew was wrong! Makes me wonder what other discrepancies there are? Maybe other knowledgeable Listers can comment on Sam's link content? Cheers!!--Henry Hore ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Oldsfolks(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 31, 2003
Subject: Re:Yet another new engine
Have you looked at: Http://www.dynacam.com ? This one has been around for years,and now ,may get into production for the experimental kit plane market. Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now Charleston, Arkansas "Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers" ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 31, 2003
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re:Yet another new engine
I called them once, think the price was about 60k............Dont think they will sell to many at that price. > >Have you looked at: > Http://www.dynacam.com ? > >This one has been around for years,and now ,may get into production for the >experimental kit plane market. > > >Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor >RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now >Charleston, Arkansas >"Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers" > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 31, 2003
From: Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov>
Subject: Re: Yet another new engine
The fuel economy of the diesels appears to be quite good. They burn about 2/3s the fuel of a gasoline engine. Firewall-forward weight appears to be equivalent, at least for the two-stroke diesels. Cost also appears to be comparable to Lycoming. It would not surprise me if the reliability turns out to be the same or better than Lycoming, once the initial bugs are worked out. The diesels are simpler in some ways, but more complicated in others, so it will probably come out even or slightly ahead in terms of reliability. The diesels are water cooled. This adds complexity, (reducing reliability) but greatly suppresses thermal shock and cycling, (enhancing reliability.) There is no ignition system, but there is a high-pressure fuel injection system. In the case of the two-stroke diesel, there is no valve train, but there is a supercharger. The DeltaHawk folks <http://www.deltahawk.com> seems to have a pretty good design and are targeted towards experimental aircraft. They have just demonstrated (on the test stand) an inverted version of their engine that should slip right into the cowling of an RV. They have been flying an upright version successfully in a Velocity for a few months. When I'm ready to buy an engine, (about a year from now) I figure the choice will be pretty clear. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Duane Bentley" <dbentley(at)fuse.net>
Subject: Fiberglass - Next?
Date: Jul 31, 2003
I'm finishing up my RV6 fiberglass work. After accumulating all the insight from the archives, I successfully laid up the windscreen fairing with fiberglass tape and West Systems epoxy. It was a learning experience, but seemed to work well. I used the West Systems epoxy for the final contour with their 410 microlight fairing filler. It's all sanded down easily and looks smooth to the touch and eyes. Now what? Does this need some sort of material coating before a primer and paint? I read in the archives of using straight epoxy as a final coat. That goes on too heavy and uneven and begins to set up way before I'veI used it up. In addition, I found that it needed to be nearly all sanded off to get back to the smooth contour I originally had. Someone in the archives suggested thinning it with acetone, but I was also warned that this could take days to dry, even in 80 deg weather. Do you go next to a primer like K38 or what? Thanks Duane Bentley West Chester, OH RV6 Finishing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Fiberglass - Next?
Date: Jul 31, 2003
Use a filling/sanding primer. Fill and sand until smooth, then you're ready for paint. KB ----- Original Message ----- From: "Duane Bentley" <dbentley(at)fuse.net> Subject: RV-List: Fiberglass - Next? > > I'm finishing up my RV6 fiberglass work. After accumulating all the > insight from the archives, I successfully laid up the windscreen fairing > with fiberglass tape and West Systems epoxy. It was a learning > experience, but seemed to work well. I used the West Systems epoxy for > the final contour with their 410 microlight fairing filler. It's all > sanded down easily and looks smooth to the touch and eyes. Now what? > Does this need some sort of material coating before a primer and paint? > > > I read in the archives of using straight epoxy as a final coat. That > goes on too heavy and uneven and begins to set up way before I'veI used > it up. In addition, I found that it needed to be nearly all sanded off > to get back to the smooth contour I originally had. Someone in the > archives suggested thinning it with acetone, but I was also warned that > this could take days to dry, even in 80 deg weather. Do you go next to > a primer like K38 or what? > > > Thanks > > > Duane Bentley > > West Chester, OH > > RV6 Finishing > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net>
Subject: Re: Yet another new engine
Date: Jul 31, 2003
What ever became of the Lycoming conversion kit that incorporated water jackets around the cylinders? In spite of the added complexity and weight this adaptation was supposed to deal with the shock cooling etc. and provide better power. Did any of these units get to the market place? Where they just more vapor ware? Jim in Kelowna ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Dube" <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov> Subject: Re: RV-List: Yet another new engine > > The fuel economy of the diesels appears to be quite good. They burn about > 2/3s the fuel of a gasoline engine. Firewall-forward weight appears to be > equivalent, at least for the two-stroke diesels. Cost also appears to be > comparable to Lycoming. > > It would not surprise me if the reliability turns out to be the same or > better than Lycoming, once the initial bugs are worked out. The diesels are > simpler in some ways, but more complicated in others, so it will probably > come out even or slightly ahead in terms of reliability. The diesels are > water cooled. This adds complexity, (reducing reliability) but greatly > suppresses thermal shock and cycling, (enhancing reliability.) There is no > ignition system, but there is a high-pressure fuel injection system. In the > case of the two-stroke diesel, there is no valve train, but there is a > supercharger. > > The DeltaHawk folks <http://www.deltahawk.com> seems to have a pretty good > design and are targeted towards experimental aircraft. They have just > demonstrated (on the test stand) an inverted version of their engine that > should slip right into the cowling of an RV. They have been flying an > upright version successfully in a Velocity for a few months. > > When I'm ready to buy an engine, (about a year from now) I figure the > choice will be pretty clear. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 31, 2003
From: RV6160hp(at)aol.com
Subject: RV6 Flight Training in NY, ??? RV Forum NY 9-13
From Ohio to Maryland up through NEE Canada....1200+ Flyers sent...did you get your RV Forum Notice, send it back yet???? See you at KFZY (Fulton NY) this year? Mark your calendars and plan to attend. September 12, 2003 Friday night fly in, cook out and camp out. The EAA 486 General meeting night too. September 13, 2003 Saturday technical seminars all day, meals provided to paid attendee's. Then a nice dinner banquet with a presentation. This year Mr. Kirk House, ex-Director Curator of the Glenn Cirtiss Museum will talk about the books on Glenn he wrote, and how Glenn was the ultimate Experimenter! September 14, 2003 Sunday AM our great pancake breakfast and perhaps a coordinated fly out for lunch, planes, weather and pilots willing. see us at www.eaachapter486.com We will be updating (correcting-there are ome errors now) our site soon with the 2003 plans. Last year over 56+ RV's and 25 SPAM's flew in with over 150 attendee's. There was Mike Seager and the Factory RV6 doing trnasitional RV flight instruction (which is happening again this year so you builders who are close to flight email Craig Warner at cwarner(at)twcny.rr.com ) and as well there was manufacturers like Lycoming and Aerospace logic with tables displaying and selling their wares. I could go on...but you get the picture...just ask some one who has been there the $40 (pre registered) is easily worth it. Hope to See you all there. OH I plan to give rides this year Dammmmmit! You know my RV? ARE YOU GAME? Respectfully, David McManmon President EAA 486 RV6 Flying, Builder, Pilot N58DM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terence Gannon" <terence.gannon(at)telus.net>
Subject: Yet another new engine
Date: Jul 31, 2003
Jim -- www.cooljugs.com Not a name you forget very easily ;-) Terry in Calgary RV-6 S/N 24414 "Wings, Firewall" -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Jewell Subject: Re: RV-List: Yet another new engine What ever became of the Lycoming conversion kit that incorporated water jackets around the cylinders? In spite of the added complexity and weight this adaptation was supposed to deal with the shock cooling etc. and provide better power. Did any of these units get to the market place? Where they just more vapor ware? Jim in Kelowna ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com>
Subject: Trim Cable slop
Date: Jul 31, 2003
Ok, I think I've seen this in the archives, so I'm doing a search but thought I'd ask the 'list for any insight. I just fit my manual trim cable, which was a struggle in itself. It would have been much easier to do when building the elevator - I wish they had included the cable with the empennage kit. Drilling the cable routing holes and slotting the elevator leading edge was much more difficult than it had to be. And I had to swap out their nylon clevis for a steel one to fit the tab horn on my pre-pre-punched kit. Thankfully, they were nice about crediting me for the wrong part. Anyway, it's done. Now, my problem is that the cable has about 3/16" slop in the cable. Is this normal? Is there a way to fix it, or did I just get a bad cable that needs to be replaced? Or am I worrying about a non-problem? Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - Finishing up the empennage while waiting on my painter.. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James Jula" <jmjula(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Flop tube resting point
Date: Jul 31, 2003
I just checked the resting position of the flop tube and noticed that the head rests in the center of the drain hole. There appears to be adequate room for water and debris to be drained, but it still worries me a bit. I could shorten it, but is that necessary? Thanks, James ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 01, 2003
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: Yet another new engine
http://www.liquidcooledairpower.com/cj-pricing.shtml > >What ever became of the Lycoming conversion kit that incorporated water >jackets around the cylinders? >In spite of the added complexity and weight this adaptation was supposed to >deal with the shock cooling etc. and provide better power. Did any of these >units get to the market place? Where they just more vapor ware? > >Jim in Kelowna > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Bill Dube" <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov> >To: >Subject: Re: RV-List: Yet another new engine > > >> >> The fuel economy of the diesels appears to be quite good. They >burn about >> 2/3s the fuel of a gasoline engine. Firewall-forward weight appears to be >> equivalent, at least for the two-stroke diesels. Cost also appears to be >> comparable to Lycoming. >> >> It would not surprise me if the reliability turns out to be the >same or >> better than Lycoming, once the initial bugs are worked out. The diesels >are >> simpler in some ways, but more complicated in others, so it will probably >> come out even or slightly ahead in terms of reliability. The diesels are >> water cooled. This adds complexity, (reducing reliability) but greatly >> suppresses thermal shock and cycling, (enhancing reliability.) There is no >> ignition system, but there is a high-pressure fuel injection system. In >the >> case of the two-stroke diesel, there is no valve train, but there is a >> supercharger. >> >> The DeltaHawk folks <http://www.deltahawk.com> seems to have a >pretty good >> design and are targeted towards experimental aircraft. They have just >> demonstrated (on the test stand) an inverted version of their engine that >> should slip right into the cowling of an RV. They have been flying an >> upright version successfully in a Velocity for a few months. >> >> When I'm ready to buy an engine, (about a year from now) I figure >the >> choice will be pretty clear. >> >> > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PittsS1(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 01, 2003
Subject: c1c
C1C info just machine the fwd fi mount. its lite weight magnesiun, slightly tuned and makes as much if not more hp than the after market hot rod setups. i know i have 1 with an air flo perf injector. no air cleaner, 4 inch intake into a small plenum chamber...as much as 32 map on t/o. so many opinions, ask someone who has done it...questons are invited m ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Perry" <eperry(at)san.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Fiberglass - Next?
Date: Aug 01, 2003
Different person here...I have put the Smooth Prime on and sanded it to a nice finish. Poly Fiber says to use an epoxy primer to seal the Smooth Prime. The only epoxy primer that I have used, on internal parts is AKZO, and I here that paint has a difficult time adhering to it. What kind of primer is everyone else using? and what color is it? I was told to stick with white or the paint color would get distorted. Thanks Ed Perry RV-8 49 hours and lots of finish work to go ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright(at)adelphia.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fiberglass - Next? > > Use a filling/sanding primer. Fill and sand until smooth, then you're ready > for paint. > > KB > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Duane Bentley" <dbentley(at)fuse.net> > To: > Subject: RV-List: Fiberglass - Next? > > > > > > I'm finishing up my RV6 fiberglass work. After accumulating all the > > insight from the archives, I successfully laid up the windscreen fairing > > with fiberglass tape and West Systems epoxy. It was a learning > > experience, but seemed to work well. I used the West Systems epoxy for > > the final contour with their 410 microlight fairing filler. It's all > > sanded down easily and looks smooth to the touch and eyes. Now what? > > Does this need some sort of material coating before a primer and paint? > > > > > > I read in the archives of using straight epoxy as a final coat. That > > goes on too heavy and uneven and begins to set up way before I'veI used > > it up. In addition, I found that it needed to be nearly all sanded off > > to get back to the smooth contour I originally had. Someone in the > > archives suggested thinning it with acetone, but I was also warned that > > this could take days to dry, even in 80 deg weather. Do you go next to > > a primer like K38 or what? > > > > > > Thanks > > > > > > Duane Bentley > > > > West Chester, OH > > > > RV6 Finishing > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 01, 2003
From: Chris W <chrisw3(at)cox.net>
RV10
Subject: [Fwd: The best new thing I saw at OSH...]
I just saw this on rec.aviation.piloting and thought everyone here might be interested -------- Original Message -------- Subject: The best new thing I saw at OSH... Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 10:16:12 -0500 From: "Dan Luke" <c172rg(at)bellSPAMsouth.net> ...was Van's new, four-place RV-10. They had a cockpit mockup outside the tent for the tirekickers to sit in. The roominess is truly impressive, especially the rear seats which hold two six-footers in comfort. Van is projecting an 1100 lb. useful load for the airplane if you build it light. http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/rv-10spe.htm The formal introduction of the airplane was jammed on Wednesday. When the crowd was asked how many had already ordered empennage/rear fuse. kits, a dozen hands went up. When we were asked how many were thinking about ordering one, a hundred hands went up (mine included). Van was smiling. -- Dan C172RG at BFM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Fiberglass - Next?
Date: Aug 01, 2003
Ed, I used smoothprime and used a regular filling primer over it. No problems after nearly 3 years. Kyle Boatright ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ed Perry" <eperry(at)san.rr.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fiberglass - Next? > > Different person here...I have put the Smooth Prime on and sanded it to a > nice finish. Poly Fiber says to use an epoxy primer to seal the Smooth > Prime. The only epoxy primer that I have used, on internal parts is AKZO, > and I here that paint has a difficult time adhering to it. What kind of > primer is everyone else using? and what color is it? I was told to stick > with white or the paint color would get distorted. > Thanks > Ed Perry > RV-8 > 49 hours and lots of finish work to go > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright(at)adelphia.net> > To: > Subject: Re: RV-List: Fiberglass - Next? > > > > > > > Use a filling/sanding primer. Fill and sand until smooth, then you're > ready > > for paint. > > > > KB > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Duane Bentley" <dbentley(at)fuse.net> > > To: > > Subject: RV-List: Fiberglass - Next? > > > > > > > > > > I'm finishing up my RV6 fiberglass work. After accumulating all the > > > insight from the archives, I successfully laid up the windscreen fairing > > > with fiberglass tape and West Systems epoxy. It was a learning > > > experience, but seemed to work well. I used the West Systems epoxy for > > > the final contour with their 410 microlight fairing filler. It's all > > > sanded down easily and looks smooth to the touch and eyes. Now what? > > > Does this need some sort of material coating before a primer and paint? > > > > > > > > > I read in the archives of using straight epoxy as a final coat. That > > > goes on too heavy and uneven and begins to set up way before I'veI used > > > it up. In addition, I found that it needed to be nearly all sanded off > > > to get back to the smooth contour I originally had. Someone in the > > > archives suggested thinning it with acetone, but I was also warned that > > > this could take days to dry, even in 80 deg weather. Do you go next to > > > a primer like K38 or what? > > > > > > > > > Thanks > > > > > > > > > Duane Bentley > > > > > > West Chester, OH > > > > > > RV6 Finishing > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Perry" <eperry(at)san.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Fiberglass - Next?
Date: Aug 01, 2003
What is regular "filling primer"? Do you know what brand? I'm looking for something that I can use to seal the smooth prime. Thanks, Ed Perry ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright(at)adelphia.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fiberglass - Next? > > Ed, > > I used smoothprime and used a regular filling primer over it. No problems > after nearly 3 years. > > Kyle Boatright > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Ed Perry" <eperry(at)san.rr.com> > To: > Subject: Re: RV-List: Fiberglass - Next? > > > > > > Different person here...I have put the Smooth Prime on and sanded it to a > > nice finish. Poly Fiber says to use an epoxy primer to seal the Smooth > > Prime. The only epoxy primer that I have used, on internal parts is AKZO, > > and I here that paint has a difficult time adhering to it. What kind of > > primer is everyone else using? and what color is it? I was told to stick > > with white or the paint color would get distorted. > > Thanks > > Ed Perry > > RV-8 > > 49 hours and lots of finish work to go > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright(at)adelphia.net> > > To: > > Subject: Re: RV-List: Fiberglass - Next? > > > > > > > > > > > > Use a filling/sanding primer. Fill and sand until smooth, then you're > > ready > > > for paint. > > > > > > KB > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: "Duane Bentley" <dbentley(at)fuse.net> > > > To: > > > Subject: RV-List: Fiberglass - Next? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I'm finishing up my RV6 fiberglass work. After accumulating all the > > > > insight from the archives, I successfully laid up the windscreen > fairing > > > > with fiberglass tape and West Systems epoxy. It was a learning > > > > experience, but seemed to work well. I used the West Systems epoxy > for > > > > the final contour with their 410 microlight fairing filler. It's all > > > > sanded down easily and looks smooth to the touch and eyes. Now what? > > > > Does this need some sort of material coating before a primer and > paint? > > > > > > > > > > > > I read in the archives of using straight epoxy as a final coat. That > > > > goes on too heavy and uneven and begins to set up way before I'veI > used > > > > it up. In addition, I found that it needed to be nearly all sanded > off > > > > to get back to the smooth contour I originally had. Someone in the > > > > archives suggested thinning it with acetone, but I was also warned > that > > > > this could take days to dry, even in 80 deg weather. Do you go next > to > > > > a primer like K38 or what? > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks > > > > > > > > > > > > Duane Bentley > > > > > > > > West Chester, OH > > > > > > > > RV6 Finishing > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Fiberglass - Next?
Date: Aug 01, 2003
Any rattle can primer from your local auto body store will work. I prefer the sandable ones simply because they fill minor scratches and pits and you *can* sand 'em if necessary KB ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ed Perry" <eperry(at)san.rr.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fiberglass - Next? > > What is regular "filling primer"? Do you know what brand? I'm looking for > something that I can use to seal the smooth prime. > Thanks, > Ed Perry > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright(at)adelphia.net> > To: > Subject: Re: RV-List: Fiberglass - Next? > > > > > > > Ed, > > > > I used smoothprime and used a regular filling primer over it. No problems > > after nearly 3 years. > > > > Kyle Boatright > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Ed Perry" <eperry(at)san.rr.com> > > To: > > Subject: Re: RV-List: Fiberglass - Next? > > > > > > > > > > Different person here...I have put the Smooth Prime on and sanded it to > a > > > nice finish. Poly Fiber says to use an epoxy primer to seal the Smooth > > > Prime. The only epoxy primer that I have used, on internal parts is > AKZO, > > > and I here that paint has a difficult time adhering to it. What kind of > > > primer is everyone else using? and what color is it? I was told to stick > > > with white or the paint color would get distorted. > > > Thanks > > > Ed Perry > > > RV-8 > > > 49 hours and lots of finish work to go > > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright(at)adelphia.net> > > > To: > > > Subject: Re: RV-List: Fiberglass - Next? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Use a filling/sanding primer. Fill and sand until smooth, then you're > > > ready > > > > for paint. > > > > > > > > KB > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > > From: "Duane Bentley" <dbentley(at)fuse.net> > > > > To: > > > > Subject: RV-List: Fiberglass - Next? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I'm finishing up my RV6 fiberglass work. After accumulating all the > > > > > insight from the archives, I successfully laid up the windscreen > > fairing > > > > > with fiberglass tape and West Systems epoxy. It was a learning > > > > > experience, but seemed to work well. I used the West Systems epoxy > > for > > > > > the final contour with their 410 microlight fairing filler. It's > all > > > > > sanded down easily and looks smooth to the touch and eyes. Now > what? > > > > > Does this need some sort of material coating before a primer and > > paint? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I read in the archives of using straight epoxy as a final coat. > That > > > > > goes on too heavy and uneven and begins to set up way before I'veI > > used > > > > > it up. In addition, I found that it needed to be nearly all sanded > > off > > > > > to get back to the smooth contour I originally had. Someone in the > > > > > archives suggested thinning it with acetone, but I was also warned > > that > > > > > this could take days to dry, even in 80 deg weather. Do you go > next > > to > > > > > a primer like K38 or what? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Duane Bentley > > > > > > > > > > West Chester, OH > > > > > > > > > > RV6 Finishing > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Subject: Re: Fiberglass - Next?
Date: Aug 01, 2003
I used Dupont 30S "HI SPEED" Platinum Grey (Light) Lacquer Primer Surfacer. It sprays on easily with a standard spray gun and what I like about is that you can sand coats after about 15 minutes after application. Great for filling pin-holes too. Cheers!!--Henry Hore ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Will & Lynda Allen" <linenwool(at)comcast.net>
Subject: How to fit a 15' wing box in an 8' bed
Date: Aug 01, 2003
Anyone who has picked up their wing kit from Van's them selves with a full size truck but no roof rack, how did you set it in for a long drive? With a standard 8' bed and the long box is 15.5' long, I would have 6.5' hanging out the back of the truck so I thought about resting it at an angle over the cab and into the bed. Has anyone done it this way? Did it damage the cab of your truck at all, or worse, the wing parts? Did it ride OK? I'm picking up my wing kit a week from this Monday so any suggestions (without modifying my truck ;-) would be appreciated! Thanks, -Will Allen North Bend, Wa. Trying to finish emp to make room for wings.... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott Brown" <scottbrown(at)precisionjet.com>
Subject: Bahama Bound
Date: Aug 01, 2003
Listers, Have any of you ventured your RV to the bahamas? What kind of paperwork was necessary for an Experimental to get to the Bahamas. I have taken spam cans galore to the Bahamas, but never my RV...was wondering if there was any different procedures that I need to be aware of. Scott ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com>
Subject: How to fit a 15' wing box in an 8' bed
Date: Aug 01, 2003
I moved mine 5 miles from the Rodeway terminal. I put the long box in first with the tailgate up and the end of the box behind the cab. The short box went on top with rope over to help hold both boxes down. I also ran rope to the end of the long box to keep it from sliding backwards. It rode solid all the way home. Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - finishing the empennage fiberglas -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Will & Lynda Allen Subject: RV-List: How to fit a 15' wing box in an 8' bed Anyone who has picked up their wing kit from Van's them selves with a full size truck but no roof rack, how did you set it in for a long drive? With a standard 8' bed and the long box is 15.5' long, I would have 6.5' hanging out the back of the truck so I thought about resting it at an angle over the cab and into the bed. Has anyone done it this way? Did it damage the cab of your truck at all, or worse, the wing parts? Did it ride OK? I'm picking up my wing kit a week from this Monday so any suggestions (without modifying my truck ;-) would be appreciated! Thanks, -Will Allen North Bend, Wa. Trying to finish emp to make room for wings.... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo(at)verizon.net>
"Rocket List"
Subject: Leaking Oil Cooler Update
Date: Aug 01, 2003
I got about fifteen replies to my request for a oil cooler repair shop and they were all "Pacific Oil Cooler." The cooler was removed and driven down to the shop. The shop was very helpful and seemed to be very easy to work with. So, I will add my recommendation to the others for Pacific Oil Cooler. Of course, I might have to amend my opinion if it still leaks after the repair. :-) For those who told me to switch to S&W, it is a Stewart Warner 11 fin cooler but is 30 years old and just needed a little TLC. Skid was the gentleman who help me and asked lots of questions about building his own plane. Once the Rocket is back flying, I will give him one of those "FREE" 40-50 thousand dollars rides. I just about have set the hook. Tom Gummo Apple Valley, CA Harmon Rocket - 140 hours :-) down for oil leak :-( should be back up next week :-) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 01, 2003
From: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Re: Bahama Bound
Go to your AOPA web site and download the info regarding experimental aircraft in the Bahamas. There are a bunch of people that have made the trip. They want your tourist dollar$. There is something new about permission from the TSA for Caribbean flights to and from the US. You might want to check out this site, it has a lot of links to info: http://www.mstewart.net/michael/rv/teamrv/turkscaicos/index.htm Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR 13B in gestation mode > >Listers, > >Have any of you ventured your RV to the bahamas? What kind of paperwork was >necessary for an Experimental to get to the Bahamas. I have taken spam cans >galore to the Bahamas, but never my RV...was wondering if there was any >different procedures that I need to be aware of. > >Scott ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BBreckenridge(at)att.net
Subject: RE: RV-10
Date: Aug 01, 2003
>I bought the domain RV-10.org for my future web page/builder's log. Don't >expect to see anything soon though! >Brian Denk >RV8 N94BD >RV-10 tail ordered Brian; Please don't feel abused: I gave my wife a list of possible website addresses to pick from in anticipation of developing a builder's website when I actually dive in. Guess what? She chose "MyRV-10.org" Your's will be easier to get to, easier to remember, and way cooler than mine, but it cracked me up that she picked the one so similar to yours! We haven't built one before, so we're going to take a local class on construction techniques to give us a good start. We figured it didn't matter which model we chose - there's quite a learning curve on all of them when you haven't done one before. Can't wait to start! Looking forward to the Homecoming Fly-In... Bruce Breckenridge RV-10 Tail on order, #18 Pneumatic squeezer ready... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BBreckenridge(at)att.net
Subject: RE: How to fit a 15' wing box in an 8' bed
Date: Aug 01, 2003
>I'm picking up my wing kit a week from this Monday so any suggestions >(without modifying my truck ;-) would be appreciated! >Thanks, >Will Allen >North Bend, Wa. >Trying to finish emp to make room for wings.... Of course, the best way is to straddle it under the truck... and avoid speed bumps! Bruce Breckenridge Clackamas, OR ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Perry" <eperry(at)san.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Fiberglass - Next?
Date: Aug 01, 2003
That sounds pretty easy... Thanks Kyle, Ed Perry ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright(at)adelphia.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fiberglass - Next? > > Any rattle can primer from your local auto body store will work. I prefer > the sandable ones simply because they fill minor scratches and pits and you > *can* sand 'em if necessary > > KB > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Ed Perry" <eperry(at)san.rr.com> > To: > Subject: Re: RV-List: Fiberglass - Next? > > > > > > What is regular "filling primer"? Do you know what brand? I'm looking for > > something that I can use to seal the smooth prime. > > Thanks, > > Ed Perry > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright(at)adelphia.net> > > To: > > Subject: Re: RV-List: Fiberglass - Next? > > > > > > > > > > > > Ed, > > > > > > I used smoothprime and used a regular filling primer over it. No > problems > > > after nearly 3 years. > > > > > > Kyle Boatright > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: "Ed Perry" <eperry(at)san.rr.com> > > > To: > > > Subject: Re: RV-List: Fiberglass - Next? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Different person here...I have put the Smooth Prime on and sanded it > to > > a > > > > nice finish. Poly Fiber says to use an epoxy primer to seal the Smooth > > > > Prime. The only epoxy primer that I have used, on internal parts is > > AKZO, > > > > and I here that paint has a difficult time adhering to it. What kind > of > > > > primer is everyone else using? and what color is it? I was told to > stick > > > > with white or the paint color would get distorted. > > > > Thanks > > > > Ed Perry > > > > RV-8 > > > > 49 hours and lots of finish work to go > > > > > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > > From: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright(at)adelphia.net> > > > > To: > > > > Subject: Re: RV-List: Fiberglass - Next? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Use a filling/sanding primer. Fill and sand until smooth, then > you're > > > > ready > > > > > for paint. > > > > > > > > > > KB > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > > > From: "Duane Bentley" <dbentley(at)fuse.net> > > > > > To: > > > > > Subject: RV-List: Fiberglass - Next? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I'm finishing up my RV6 fiberglass work. After accumulating all > the > > > > > > insight from the archives, I successfully laid up the windscreen > > > fairing > > > > > > with fiberglass tape and West Systems epoxy. It was a learning > > > > > > experience, but seemed to work well. I used the West Systems > epoxy > > > for > > > > > > the final contour with their 410 microlight fairing filler. It's > > all > > > > > > sanded down easily and looks smooth to the touch and eyes. Now > > what? > > > > > > Does this need some sort of material coating before a primer and > > > paint? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I read in the archives of using straight epoxy as a final coat. > > That > > > > > > goes on too heavy and uneven and begins to set up way before I'veI > > > used > > > > > > it up. In addition, I found that it needed to be nearly all > sanded > > > off > > > > > > to get back to the smooth contour I originally had. Someone in > the > > > > > > archives suggested thinning it with acetone, but I was also warned > > > that > > > > > > this could take days to dry, even in 80 deg weather. Do you go > > next > > > to > > > > > > a primer like K38 or what? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Duane Bentley > > > > > > > > > > > > West Chester, OH > > > > > > > > > > > > RV6 Finishing > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Glasgow" <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Fiberglass - Next?
Date: Aug 01, 2003
I used the 410 on my cowlings, pants, tips and skirt then sanded. Next I used UV Smooth prime and sanded. Finally I used Dupont URO sanding primer on all parts and sanded again. Next I primed with Dupont primer and finally finished with IMROM. Everything came out very good. If you want more detail, let me know off line. Steve Glasgow ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Subject: Re: RE: How to fit a 15' wing box in an 8' bed
Date: Aug 01, 2003
Don't know how they pack wingkits on the other kits, but my -6A kit was packed in ~8' length boxes (of different height and depth) and the long box (14 1/2' long by 8" X 10" on the -6) contained the main spar components and 12' long bulk aluminum angle stock . I ordered the entire kit at one time and picked it up in Watertown NY, 3 hours drive away, in a U-Haul open trailer hitched to a friend's car. The long box rested on the front fence of the trailer and cleared the roof of the tow-car handily. ABF freight must have done a lot of truck transfers because the boxes were damaged by fork lift tines, ripping off skids. despite that, all the contents were OK. I made 2 trips because the finishing kit, the largest box, arrived 2 days later. Just as well because I wouldn't have been able to take it all in one trip with that trailer. Cheers!!---Henry Hore ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net>
Subject: Re: How to fit a 15' wing box in an 8' bed
Date: Aug 01, 2003
Borrow a boat trailer (small fishing boat size) - easy to load (low to ground), easy to tie down and secure it. - That's how the fellow did it who bought my wing kit. Took it down I10 from SE Texas into Louisianna. David Carter ----- Original Message ----- From: "Will & Lynda Allen" <linenwool(at)comcast.net> Subject: RV-List: How to fit a 15' wing box in an 8' bed > > Anyone who has picked up their wing kit from Van's them selves with a full > size truck but no roof rack, how did you set it in for a long drive? With a > standard 8' bed and the long box is 15.5' long, I would have 6.5' hanging > out the back of the truck so I thought about resting it at an angle over the > cab and into the bed. Has anyone done it this way? Did it damage the cab of > your truck at all, or worse, the wing parts? Did it ride OK? > > I'm picking up my wing kit a week from this Monday so any suggestions > (without modifying my truck ;-) would be appreciated! > > Thanks, > > -Will Allen > North Bend, Wa. > Trying to finish emp to make room for wings.... > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BillRVSIX(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 02, 2003
Subject: switch & circuit breaker hole ??
Hello quick Question on some of my switches and circuit breakers I have. Some have a key slot or a flat spot on the threads to keep it from spinning in the panel. Should I drill a smaller hole and file the flat spots or key slots or is it not a problem and drill a hole to fit the switch which will save a lot of time? Thanks Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Subject: Re: switch & circuit breaker hole ??
Date: Aug 02, 2003
I wouldn't go through the trouble. Put them on with locktite really tight, and you should be fine. Paul Besing RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10) http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software http://www.kitlog.com ----- Original Message ----- From: <BillRVSIX(at)aol.com> Subject: RV-List: switch & circuit breaker hole ?? > > Hello quick Question on some of my switches and circuit breakers I have. Some > have a key slot or a flat spot on the threads to keep it from spinning in the > panel. Should I drill a smaller hole and file the flat spots or key slots or > is it not a problem and drill a hole to fit the switch which will save a lot > of time? Thanks > > Bill > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BillRVSIX(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 02, 2003
Subject: Re: switch & circuit breaker hole ??
I was just in the shop looking at the panel and all the circuit breakers are going to have a bus bar connecting them together so they should not rotate just the switches that don, t have the bus bar. Thanks for your input. Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Subject: Re: switch & circuit breaker hole ??
Date: Aug 02, 2003
Bill, Just drill a round hole to fit. If you can get extra nuts and internal tooth lock-washers, (the switches may come with them? Or try Radio Shack), install a nut followed by a lock-washer on the switch threads and adjust the nut so the right amount of the switch body protrudes through the panel to get a flat washer, a lock-washer and nut in that order on the outside of the panel. Adjust the nut, first installed, to get all switches to protrude evenly. The lock washer behind the panel will prevent the switch from rotating as you tighten the outside nut. Cheers!! Henry Hore ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: switch & circuit breaker hole ??
Date: Aug 02, 2003
Bill, I've got a technique that's pretty easy and doesn't rely on loctite or nut torque... Here's a horribly blurry picture of the "switch alignment plate" behind my panel: http://images.rvproject.com/images/2003/20030701_switch_alignment_plate.jpg Pics and instructions here: http://www.rvproject.com/20030615.html Hope this helps, )_( Dan RV-7 N714D http://www.rvproject.com ----- Original Message ----- From: <BillRVSIX(at)aol.com> Subject: RV-List: switch & circuit breaker hole ?? > > Hello quick Question on some of my switches and circuit breakers I have. Some > have a key slot or a flat spot on the threads to keep it from spinning in the > panel. Should I drill a smaller hole and file the flat spots or key slots or > is it not a problem and drill a hole to fit the switch which will save a lot > of time? Thanks > > Bill > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: switch & circuit breaker hole ??
Date: Aug 02, 2003
> Just drill a round hole to fit. If you can get extra nuts and internal tooth > lock-washers, (the switches may come with them? Or try Radio Shack), install B&C Specialty (http://www.bandc.biz) sells these internal tooth lockwashers separately. Unfortunately they don't seem to include them with the Carling switches they sell for some reason! So if and when you order switches from B&C, be sure to order the lockwashers as well. Or you can get 'em separately if you already have your switches. )_( Dan RV-7 N714D http://www.rvproject.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <ktlkrn(at)cox.net>
Subject: Oshkosh thoughts (long)
Date: Aug 02, 2003
Hi Everyone, I just got home from my first trip to Oshkosh. First, I must say I was totally overwhelmed by the enormity of the event yet it was still easy to get around and see things. The south end just kept going. We only went about halfway due to the distance. This has got to be the single largest gathering of people in the world. I've never seen so many motorhomes, campers or tents in one place!! All of the vendor stuff takes at least 2 days and I don't believe you could see all of the planes in 7. Second, the RV community is a great group of people. Very friendly and eager to answer questions. We went to the RV area everyday cause there is always something new. There were some very beautiful planes and some outstanding ones. Finally got to meet the members in attendance from the SoCal wing. Nice people. Can't wait to become a flying member of RV family. The Bob Collins RV7 get-together was lots of fun. Bob says he is going to try to make this an annual event. Thanks for the hospitality. Now for what I saw. I went with two primary purposes in mind, avionics and engines. EFIS systems are everywhere. They range in price and capability. I am just as confused as before I got there. I'm narrowing it down though. If only money wasn't an object. Engines. The major players were there, Aerosport, Mattituck, Superior etc, Eggenfeller, Crossflow, NSI, Bombardier, Honda. On the Honda note, we can probably write this one off for a while. The engine is very good looking but will be certified. Although no one in the tent would commit I did overhear 2008 at the earliest if it gets built at all. Hell, by then someone will have a Hydrogen X engine out!!!! For you guys interested in the Subaru's you must take a look at the Crossflow Suby. It looks like an aircraft engine. The Crossflow engine starts life as a low time (mileage) engine, is totally torn down and inspected. The crank is replaced, inspected, balanced and, polished. All pistons are completely rebuilt and brought to extremely tight tolerances and exact weight of the others. The automotive hoses and fittings are removed and replaced with aircraft grade shielded hoses. The engine is turbocharged. The turbocharger is removed and rebuilt with the fan perfectly balanced. The assembly is ceramic coated to assist in heat dissipation. It is a normalized turbo. The redrive is a work of art and has two pads for accessory drives if desired. There are too many other neat features to mention. After spending much time viewing the other Subaru's there appears to be no comparison. The real beauty of this engine for RV folks is that it will hold 200hp to 12000+ feet. They currently have several in Glasairs and Glastars including one with nearly 1000 hours. The Crossflow folks said they are going to tear it down at 1200 to have a look. As of Friday they had sold 4 to RV7 owners and the interest was growing. This is a complete firewall forward set up for $23,700. I believe Crossflow will become a force in the RV market. In summary, I had a great time, met some great people and completely wore myself out. Well out to the hangar to work on the plane!!! Hopefully, next year I'll be parked in the RV area!!! Darwin N. Barrie Chandler AZ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net>
Subject: Re: Builder documentation on the Web-summary
Date: Aug 02, 2003
Yes, VoloView Express (free, from same company that makes Autocad), is THE cheap, useable viewer for CAD drawings. Eliminates the problem of converting .dwg to .pds and getting poor to unreadable text in the pdf conversion. Some, not all, will have a problem downloading VoloView Express. The following info on "installing VoloViewExpress" is essential if you are using Windows ME & IE6 (a known problem) - you will get a non-lethal failure when you download VoloView Express (free). The program will install and will launch, but won't read files. If you have this problem, then go through the following "fix" - a bit tedious but it works and VoloView then becomes the "lovable" "free .dwg viewer" that you want if you don't have a CAD program to open the files being shared. The overview of the "fix" is: You have to replace one driver (from version 15.0.6.30) with a more recent (from version 15.0.6.50), AFTER install, and then run a very short program to get VoloView into your Windows Registry (I believe that is specifically what is happening, but it doesn't matter - it works). I've passed this problem on to AutoDesk Tech Supt but don't know if/when they will fix their "download" site. .Here's the fix (from autodesk voloview.general newsgroup), modified by me to be more tutorial for the less skilled (like me): 1) Make the installation - during download/install you will get 2 messages that Regsvrac.exe made page fault in ac1st15.dll. Click OK and finish installation. Reboot system if asked to do so by install wizard. 2) Download aclst15.dll (that is "a" "c" "el not digit 1" "s" "t" "digit 1" "5.dll") from this address: http://adeskftp.autodesk.com/prodsupp/downloads/aclst15.dll to your temporary directory [Desktop works] 3) Go to directory c:\Program Files\Common Files\Autodesk Shared and change the name of aclst15.dll so it is "neutered", just add .org or .nul to it, e.g., aclst15.dll.nul 4) Copy aclst15.dll you just downloaded in 2) to directory c:\Program Files\Common Files\Autodesk Shared [ to do this, go to Desktop or wherever you downloaded to, rt click the icon, click "copy", then double click on "My Computer", C:drive, Program Files, Common Files, and right click on Autodesk Shared icon, and click Paste. 5) Go to DOS prompt and "change to directory" where VoloView Express is installed, i.e., at the command prompt, type CD\"Program Files"\"Volo View Express" (that is where it was on the Newsgroup guy and my computers), and press Enter. (Remember to use the quote marks for "long file names"). 6) Now, being at c:\Program Files\Volo View Express prompt, type regsvrac /c aximpv.dll and press Enter [ remeber there is a space before and after "/c" - You should get message window saying "DHRegisterServer asimpv.dll succeeded". If so, click OK. Then start VoloView and try opening any drawing. So, here's my 3rd attempt at a summary of how we can share our stuff with each other, when not everyone has a CAD program: 1. To view CAD drawings, either 1) get a CAD program [ Turbo CAD, Intellicad (imbedded in Airplane PDQ for $99 or from other sources), or pay $3500 or $5000 and buy Autocad], or 2) download and fix the AutoCad company's free viewer, Volo View Express (see above), from http://usa.autodesk.com/adsk and click Products at top left, then scroll down to VoloView Express and click VolvoView Express 2.01 Download, then fill in info and continue. - To get started using this program, open a file, everything will be too small, click on "magnify" icon and then move mouse pointer up to magnify and down to reduce in size. Click "hand" (pan icon" and move mouse left to look left and right to look right). 2. For converting .bmp scanned sketches to .jpg, and for reducing size of .jpg files, download free IrfanView from http://www.irfanview.com/ and click Download 2nd from top on left side, and continue. I use this instead of the Kodak "Viewer" which is a piece of junk as distributed on my WinME computer - usually opens .jpg files but has little capability to do anything else. 3. For converting Excel spreadsheets to .pdf (much simpler than "convert to web document" which involves multiple folders and files that get saved and trashes up your HD and readout of what's in your folders/directories), and for converting anything else (except CAD files) into pdf (for posting to web pages or for e-mailing to others), get "pdfFactory" (free from FinePrint Software, LLC, www.fineprint.com and click download). All of a sudden, I feel like I understand enough to get the job done (documenting and sharing with other builders and getting peer reviews). Thanks to all who have shared the above info with the rest of us. David Carter ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Builder documentation on the Web-summary > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Tasker > > We use a viewer available on the Autodesk site called Voloview. The > full program costs money ($49 until Jul 31) but there is a version > called Voloview Express that allows viewing and printing DWG files and > is free. We use it at our business so people without AutoCAD on their > systems can view and print drawings. It seems to work just fine for that. > > I would list the correct URL, but it uses cookies and would probably not > work. So... Go to www.autodesk.com , choose United States and then > click on "products" in the upper left hand box. At the bottom of the > subsequent window Voloview and Voloview Express is listed. Click on > whichever one you are interested in and proceed. The download is 24MB > so hopefully you have a broadband connection :-) . The latest version > will run on Windows 98Se or better so if you are still running Windows > 95 it won't work. I do have a previous version that works with the > latest AutoCAD (but not the new version 2004) and Windows 95 that I > could provide (somehow). > > Dick Tasker > > John Schroeder wrote: > > >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder > > > >Terry - > > > >Thanks for the comments. You're right about the origin of .dxf files being > >AutoDesk. It is still the accepted standard and about the only way one can > >have a reasonable chance of getting various programs to read vector > >drawings. > > > >John > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
Subject: Lasar noise
Date: Aug 02, 2003
I want to pose this question to the list, in case anyone has run into this before. I will also, of course, ask Unison about this once they are back from O. I noticed during a flight tonight that I was getting some noise, static would best describe it, on my com radio. Not buzzing like high voltage ignition, but more like random static. It is enough to break the squelch on the Garmin 430 radio, but not the King com. It is much more pronounced in the higher com frequencies, and hardly breaking squelch in the lower ones. It does not map to engine rpm. However, when I turn off the Lasar system (reverting to mags only), the noise completely goes away. The instant the Lasar comes back on line, the static returns. Another observation, perhaps coincidental, probably not, is that during a hot start tonight I got what might be described as an early ignition, not quite kicking back, but making a clunk. The Lasar fault light never lit during times tonight when it isn't supposed to. What I'll check is for any wiring that may have chafed and faulted, although initial examinations didn't show anything. Also, mag case grounds will be removed and cleaned. Any other obvious things I've missed? Bummer, no Oshkosh tomorrow : ( Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN RV6-A N66AP 331 hours www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DEREK REED" <dreed(at)cdsnet.net>
Subject: Re: switch & circuit breaker hole ??
Date: Aug 02, 2003
The switches with a keyslot are made to take an On-Off plate that has the key to fit in the keyslot. Derek Reed ----- Original Message ----- From: <BillRVSIX(at)aol.com> Subject: RV-List: switch & circuit breaker hole ?? > > Hello quick Question on some of my switches and circuit breakers I have. Some > have a key slot or a flat spot on the threads to keep it from spinning in the > panel. Should I drill a smaller hole and file the flat spots or key slots or > is it not a problem and drill a hole to fit the switch which will save a lot > of time? Thanks > > Bill > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net>
"aeroelectric-list"
Subject: Matt's e-mail servers down between 17:13 & 20:09?
Date: Aug 02, 2003
It got really quiet on the RV-list and Aeroelectric list between 17:13 & 20:09C. I got nothing from either list during that time and the Matronics website was unreachable. - As a double trouble item, I also couldn't receive test e-mails I sent to myself during the time 17:12-19:08 (when I received a FlyRotary e-mail). SBC DSL declined to accept any responsibility - but nothing was getting to my local e-mail ISP - he declined to believe he had a problem. When I finally started getting e-mails, my thing about "Documentation", which was sent at 17:23, showed 20:17 when it arrived, almost a 3 hour delay. I didn't have a phone number to call Matt to let him know. Anyone have a ph number for future ref? David Carter ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 02, 2003
"aeroelectric-list"
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Re: Matt's e-mail servers down between 17:13 & 20:09?
The ISP for Matronics had an unscheduled "service outage" between those hours that effected "most of Northern California". From their recorded message, it was unclear if the outage was related to their network equipment or something larger like a backbone service provider. In any case, your times are just about right. I did notice the outage as soon as it occurred, but there wasn't much I could do to get the word out about it at that point... :-) Matt Dralle List Admin At 08:59 PM 8/2/2003 Saturday, David Carter wrote: > >It got really quiet on the RV-list and Aeroelectric list between 17:13 & >20:09C. I got nothing from either list during that time and the >Matronics website was unreachable. > - As a double trouble item, I also couldn't receive test e-mails I > sent to myself during the time 17:12-19:08 (when I received a FlyRotary > e-mail). SBC DSL declined to accept any responsibility - but nothing was > getting to my local e-mail ISP - he declined to believe he had a problem. > >When I finally started getting e-mails, my thing about "Documentation", >which was sent at 17:23, showed 20:17 when it arrived, almost a 3 hour delay. > >I didn't have a phone number to call Matt to let him know. Anyone have a >ph number for future ref? > >David Carter Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: Re: of OAT probes and NACA ducts...
Date: Aug 02, 2003
> I have my temperature probe in the NACA duct on my 6A, and see zero > error. Really. Some do see a lot of error. Some people see no error while many others see a large error. I remember a thread on this a few years back. Some one who had the problem of his OAT reading high was able to fix it by insulating the back from the cabin interior. He claimed the miss reading is not from the cowl leaking but from the interior heat. Either way, putting it in the shade in the wing root fairing is what I plan to do. Norman Hunger RV6A Delta BC ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 03, 2003
From: Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org>
Subject: Re: of OAT probes and NACA ducts...
How do you know if you have an error or not? Without another probe in a known good (known to be accurate) location, you don't have a reference. Of course we're talking about "in flight" not on the ground. Dave RV6 (probe under the wing) Norman Hunger wrote: > > > >>I have my temperature probe in the NACA duct on my 6A, and see zero >>error. Really. Some do see a lot of error. >> >> > >Some people see no error while many others see a large error. I remember a >thread on this a few years back. Some one who had the problem of his OAT >reading high was able to fix it by insulating the back from the cabin >interior. He claimed the miss reading is not from the cowl leaking but from >the interior heat. Either way, putting it in the shade in the wing root >fairing is what I plan to do. > >Norman Hunger >RV6A Delta BC > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Neil Henderson" <neil.mo51(at)btopenworld.com>
Subject: Navaid/Garmin 196
Date: Aug 03, 2003
Listers I'm waiting for delivery of an Navaid which I intend driving from a Garmin 196. I would like to lay in the wiring and am wondering if anyone could help with information on he connections required. 1) Assume there are 3 wires from the unit to the servo. Is this correct and do they need to be screened. 2) Do you need one or two connection from the GPS. It would seem that all that is required is the "Data Out" and assume "Data In" is not required? 3) I assumed the cable that came with the Garmin for plugging into a cigar lighter could be used but after snipping it two find it's only 2 wire i.e Power only. Does anyone know the Garmin part number for connector plug with a 4 wire lead? 4) Other than Power and Ground are any other connections required. Thanks in advance Neil Henderson RV9-A Aylesbury-UK ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Lenleg(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 03, 2003
Subject: Re: Navaid/Garmin 196
In a message dated 8/3/2003 2:48:48 PM Eastern Standard Time, neil.mo51(at)btopenworld.com writes: > I'm waiting for delivery of an Navaid which I intend driving from a Garmin > 196. I would like to lay in the wiring and am wondering if anyone could help > with information on he connections required. > > 1) Assume there are 3 wires from the unit to the servo. Is this correct > and do they need to be screened. > > 2) Do you need one or two connection from the GPS. It would seem that all > that is required is the "Data Out" and assume "Data In" is not required? > > 3) I assumed the cable that came with the Garmin for plugging into a cigar > lighter could be used but after snipping it two find it's only 2 wire i.e > Power only. Does anyone know the Garmin part number for connector plug with a 4 > wire lead? > > 4) Other than Power and Ground are any other connections required. > > Thanks in advance > > Neil Henderson RV9-A Aylesbury-UK > > Garmin sells a cable just for this type of installation. I bought a data cable and hooked up my 295 to the Navaid. Len Leggette, RV-8A Greensboro, NC N910LL 116 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: AFP + FAB = ???
Date: Aug 03, 2003
Has anybody out there with AFP and horizontal induction phenagled the FAB to work? Just curious what you came up with. My IO-360 FAB has a flange on the back, but of course the AFP is just an open barrel, so there's that to deal with. Then there's the assumption that the AFP controller is longer than the Bendix, so the thing sticks out further forward. Think I'm resigned to chop off the bottom of the FAB and mold my own from there down? Thanks in advance, )_( Dan RV-7 N714D http://www.rvproject.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 03, 2003
From: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: switch & circuit breaker hole ??
Bill, There are several ways to accomplish this. The professional way is to buy a Greenlee model #732 Radio chassis punch. This tool makes the exact hole you need. Alternately, B&C Products includes a form of what is known as a tab washer or French Lock. This washer has the small tang protruding down in the switch hole to lock into the key way on the switch. It has a second tab to lock into the panel. You have to drill an 1/8" hole slightly above the main 1/2" hole in the panel. This second tab fits into this hole. This effectively locks the switch to the panel and prevents rotation. Does anyone on the list know of a vendor who sells these items separately? The third method is to purchase > >Hello quick Question on some of my switches and circuit breakers I have. Some >have a key slot or a flat spot on the threads to keep it from spinning in the >panel. Should I drill a smaller hole and file the flat spots or key slots or >is it not a problem and drill a hole to fit the switch which will save a lot >of time? Thanks > >Bill > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com>
Subject: Re: Yet another new engine
Date: Aug 03, 2003
----- Original Message ----- From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> Subject: RV-List: Yet another new engine > Looks pretty neat, if it ever actually gets produced and priced reasonably. > Ok, so I'm not easily impressed by the new engine gurus out there. What > ever happened to all those diesels that were supposed to revolutionize the > industry? > Brian Denk Brian: The Nagel engine was shown at Oshkosh. According to the person I spoke to, there are five people working on the project. The concept is interesting but as presented, the engine is quite bulky. It would probably fit in a Cessna 421 cowl but at least in its present form, not the RV-10. I could not see that there was much new technically but it is innovative. As you know, it is a flat 12, but there the similarity to Ferrari ends. There are 12 connecting rod throws in the crank and since the opposing cylinders fire simultaneously the pairs are 180 degrees apart. The rationale is that it reduces vibration. I did not ask about firing order but suspect it resembles an inline 6. The cylinder barrels are ferrous metal with rudimentary fins but otherwise not cooled. There are 3 cylinder heads per side, an intake cam in the top of the case and an exhaust cam in the bottom of the case. The rocker arms are canted (pivoted about an axis not parallel to the cam) and automotive technology ignition systems are used. The turbocharger originated from another aircraft application. Dry sump lubrication. I was told that the engine had been run, but apparently not enough yet to produce meaningful data. The principals seem to come from the stock car racing community. Without doubt, bringing an engine from concept to production costs a lot of money and takes a lot of time. Whether or not they have either, I have no idea. It will indeed be interesting to see what becomes of it. There were many questions I failed to ask and I don't know if there are any show stoppers there. Deltahawk continues to make progress and appear to be systematically addressing their problems. If NASA had contracted with them and not Continental we might have an engine. At least the concept seems sound. Continental was evasive but avers that they have not abandoned their diesel even though no decision to produce has been taken. The Bombardier V-6 is quite complex and they will not say they mean to produce. The Honda was most interesting to me because it is a 350ci direct drive engine that uses up to date technologies to develop 225hp at very modest weight. Here again, no statement of intent to produce. I didn't talk to Lycoming this year but they have said that they will not do a development project until some airframe maker requests them to do so. With this chicken and egg approach, prospects for anything interesting from them appear to be dim. The situation is discouraging even with a faint glimmer of hope far in the distance. Affordable Turbine Power make fantastic claims, redesigned combustion chamber, automotive type fuel injection system, 200hp (at least) on 13gph. At low altitude. If true, that would be about 30 percent lower than other small turbine engines currently available. Seems too good to be true and we all know what that means. Still, we continue to hope. Gordon Comfort N363GC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com>
Subject: Re: of OAT probes and NACA ducts...
Date: Aug 03, 2003
> > I have my temperature probe in the NACA duct on my 6A, and see zero > > error. Really. Some do see a lot of error. > > Some people see no error while many others see a large error. I remember a > thread on this a few years back. Some one who had the problem of his OAT > reading high was able to fix it by insulating the back from the cabin > interior. He claimed the miss reading is not from the cowl leaking but from > the interior heat. Either way, putting it in the shade in the wing root > fairing is what I plan to do. > > Norman Hunger > RV6A Delta BC Regarding the issue of OAT locations.. I have my OAT probe on my new RV-4 mounted just under the RH cheek. Bad, bad location (reads about 90 degrees too high). I have an EI engine analyzer of which one of the channels can be selected to display OAT. How about placing the probe in the carb? Effectively I then have a carb air temp reading, but some of our local guys who have done this say that the carb temp is exactly that of OAT unless the carb heat is on. Any opinions? This would be an easy change for me vs locating the probe out on the lower wing. BTW I did a test with a Radio Shack remote thermometer and mounted the probe under the tail empennage fairing. Actually this read very well. It did not change as rapidly due to altitude variations vs having the probe in the slipstream, but it wasn't bad. Doug Weiler RV-4, N722DW ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Parker Thomas" <me(at)parkerthomas.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List Digest: 22 Msgs - 08/01/03
Date: Aug 03, 2003
Scott - I just returned from a week long trip to the Bahamas in my RV-8 in April. The only difference is that you need to get a letter from their Civil Aviation authority to bring an experimental in. The letter I used is below. No one even asked to see it. Parker N321PT - writing from Oshkosh. Letter: November 19, 2002 Mr. Patrick Rolle Flight Standards Inspector Bahamian Civil Aviation Authority Nassau International Airport Nassau, Bahamas Fax: 242-377-6060 Phone: 242-377-7281 Dear Mr. Rolle, I am writing to obtain permission to fly an experimental certified aircraft to the Bahamas on December 28, 2002. I have reservations at the Staniel Cay Yacht Club on Staniel Cay in the Exumas. I will be entering your country at Chub Key and plan on staying for one week. . Purpose of Flight: Pleasure . Date of Proposed Entry: December 28, 2002 . Port of Entry: Chub Cay, Berry Islands . Manufacturer: F. Parker Thomas . Model: RV-8 . Serial # 1 . Registration Marks: N626CT . Equipment: Full Engine, Flight , & Navigation Instruments including dual radios and GPS . Engine Lycoming IO 360 (200 hp) . Last Annual Inspection: November 12, 2002 Attached are copies of my pilot and aircraft documents. Each page is numbered for convenience: 1. Pilot's license 2. Medical certificate 3. Airworthiness Certificate & Statement of Limiting Conditions 4. Aircraft Registration 5. Aircraft Log book entry to verify the last annual inspection 6. Insurance Certificate (shows coverage is good in the Bahamas) 7. Airplane Specifications Two contacts in the event of an emergency are: Please contact me as soon as possible if you require anything else. I can be reached at 615-293-1003. I look forward to receiving your approval. If possible, please fax my written approval to 801-382-1974. Sincerely, Parker Thomas ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 03, 2003
From: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Carling toggle switch locking washer was switch &
circuit breaker hole ?? Dan & Bill, You can see a drawing of these locking rings on the link below. They are made by Carling. The pertinent part is located on the lower right corner of page one. http://www.carlingtech.com/pdf/s_bushng.pdf Charlie Kuss > >> Just drill a round hole to fit. If you can get extra nuts and internal >tooth >> lock-washers, (the switches may come with them? Or try Radio Shack), >install > >B&C Specialty (http://www.bandc.biz) sells these internal tooth lockwashers >separately. Unfortunately they don't seem to include them with the Carling >switches they sell for some reason! So if and when you order switches from >B&C, be sure to order the lockwashers as well. Or you can get 'em >separately if you already have your switches. > >)_( Dan >RV-7 N714D >http://www.rvproject.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Yet another new engine
Date: Aug 04, 2003
> > > > > > Looks pretty neat, if it ever actually gets produced and priced >reasonably. > > Ok, so I'm not easily impressed by the new engine gurus out there. What > > ever happened to all those diesels that were supposed to revolutionize >the > > industry? > > > Brian Denk > >Brian: The Nagel engine was shown at Oshkosh. Gordon, THANKYOU for such a thorough report! It would appear that the engine makers out there are hoping and praying for a major airframe producer to offer them wads of dough to start cranking out engines. Lotsa luck. I do wish them all the very best of luck in this difficult economy, but I also want them to stop the traveling snake oil shows and lay it on the line....x number of engines available on x date, no more than x to be made initially, first come first serve. Gotta get some hours on these things! (I'm not a true "experimental" type of guy, but I know there are builders out there who would love a shot at one of these new powerplants.) Meanwhile, all I can truly plan on is a Lycosaur that's older than I am, to pull my RV10 around some day. Again, thanks for the great report. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD RV10 empacone kit ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Michael Saffold" <michaelsaffold(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Wanted Tatco Squeezer
Date: Aug 03, 2003
If anyone has a Tatco rivet squeezer they would like to part with I would like to buy a used one. I already have a Main Squeeze which I love but I find I want two squeezers so I wont have to swap sets as often. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: securing the heat muff
Date: Aug 04, 2003
I got Van's standard heat muff with the firewall forward kit. It installed easily...but after tightening it all down, the thing just wants to rotate pretty freely on the pipe. It doesn't take much force to move it. I don't see any good way to secure this thing so that it won't rotate or slide around as a result of vibration. The hose clamps on the ends just pull the cover tight to the ends...it's like the inner radius in the ends is a couple of thousandths larger than the Vetterman tubes or something. Is there a trick to keeping this sucker solid on the pipe without welding? 8 ) Thanks in advance, )_( Dan RV-7 N714D http://www.rvproject.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net>
Subject: heat muff attachment
Date: Aug 04, 2003
Hi Dan, Try this: Get a small piece of annealed stainless sheet (easier to bend and cut) .020" or so thick will do. Cut two strips about an inch wide and two or three inches long bend the strips to fit one end under the hose clamps that are currently in place. Next bend the rest of the strip so as to be able to use another hose clamp to hold the strip onto the bare exhaust pipe next to the muff flange. It will work better If you bend the outer one eighth inch ends of of the this piece upward so the clamps cannot easily slip off the ends. I put one of these on each end of the muff and it does not move any more. I have not yet run the engine but fully expect to have to adjust the tension of the extra clamps until they settle in after being heated some. I could send you a picture if the above is not clearly enough explained. Jim in Kelowna ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dan Checkoway" <> Subject: RV-List: securing the heat muff RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" >I got Van's standard heat muff with the firewall forward kit. It >installed >easily...but after tightening it all down, the thing just wants to >rotate >pretty freely on the pipe. It doesn't take much force to move it. >I don't see any good way to secure this thing so that it won't rotate or >slide around as a result of vibration. The hose clamps on the ends just >pull the cover tight to the ends...it's like the inner radius in the >ends >is >a couple of thousandths larger than the Vetterman tubes or something. >Is there a trick to keeping this sucker solid on the pipe without >welding? >8 >) >Thanks in advance, >)-( Dan > RV-7 N714D > http://www.rvproject.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 04, 2003
From: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: switch & circuit breaker hole ??
Whoops! Looks like I accidently hit the SEND button to soon on this one. The last part of this post should have read: The third method is to purchase special external star washers. These washers contain the same internal locking tang, as the Carling Locking Rings sold by B & C. I saw them in a vendor's catalog yesterday. Of course today I can't seem to find them again. I'll keep looking and post again when I find the part number and vendor. Charlie Kuss I haven't found that special star washer yet. I have found at least $400 more worth of RV "can't live without stuff, though! :-) > >Bill, > There are several ways to accomplish this. >The professional way is to buy a Greenlee model #732 Radio chassis punch. This tool makes the exact hole you need. >Alternately, B&C Products includes a form of what is known as a tab washer or French Lock. This washer has the small tang protruding down in the switch hole to lock into the key way on the switch. It has a second tab to lock into the panel. You have to drill an 1/8" hole slightly above the main 1/2" hole in the panel. This second tab fits into this hole. This effectively locks the switch to the panel and prevents rotation. Does anyone on the list know of a vendor who sells these items separately? >The third method is to purchase >> >>Hello quick Question on some of my switches and circuit breakers I have. Some >>have a key slot or a flat spot on the threads to keep it from spinning in the >>panel. Should I drill a smaller hole and file the flat spots or key slots or >>is it not a problem and drill a hole to fit the switch which will save a lot >>of time? Thanks >> >>Bill >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com>
"vansairforce"
Subject: Fw: [c-a] Stranded in Latrobe, PA
Date: Aug 04, 2003
I thought someone on this list could help out this Ez driver... If you can, please contact him at: frank(at)remotearrow.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Frank Pullano Jr" <frank(at)remotearrow.com> Subject: [c-a] Stranded in Latrobe, PA Hi gang, My trip home from OSH was a NIGHTMARE! After an overnight wx delay in Ackron OH, we were able to press East to Latrobe PA where we found ourselves stuck yet again. Brad and I eneded up renting a car and driving the rest of the way to New Jersey. Anyone out at the Latrobe Airport that has a hangar with a little extra space. They're getting me for $35 a night. I can't get back out there until Thursday and the costs are mounting! (SIGH) - Frank "Showboat" Pullano Jr. VariEze N500EZ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 04, 2003
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: securing the heat muff
I was told thats normal. I did add a high temp silicone fillet to each end. Will probably burn off after a while but at least it is held in place for now. > >I got Van's standard heat muff with the firewall forward kit. It installed >easily...but after tightening it all down, the thing just wants to rotate >pretty freely on the pipe. It doesn't take much force to move it. > >I don't see any good way to secure this thing so that it won't rotate or >slide around as a result of vibration. The hose clamps on the ends just >pull the cover tight to the ends...it's like the inner radius in the ends is >a couple of thousandths larger than the Vetterman tubes or something. > >Is there a trick to keeping this sucker solid on the pipe without welding? >8 >) > >Thanks in advance, >)_( Dan >RV-7 N714D >http://www.rvproject.com > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SportAV8R(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 04, 2003
Subject: Re: of OAT probes and NACA ducts...
In a message dated 08/03/2003 1:15:36 AM Eastern Daylight Time, nhunger(at)sprint.ca writes: > Some one who had the problem of his OAT > reading high was able to fix it by insulating the back from the cabin > interior. He claimed the miss reading is not from the cowl leaking but from > the interior heat. I've done that (the insulation at the back of the probe), and my experiments were carefully planned to measure the heat quantity leaking in from the back. For me, it was a small but still measurable % of the overall heat gain. As a result of my experience and measurements, I am strictly against the plans location for the NACA duct as a source of cockpit COOLING air (it's about 10*F warmer than ambient) and as a result, it's a lousy location for sensing OAT as well. Alternate locations that will provide cool air and at reasonable ram pressure, well- that's a matter for further experimentation and sharing with the list, for not all alternative locations are said to give good airflow. This makes me a bit hesitant to go cutting new holes in my finished airframe. Insulating the inside of the cowling sides might be the better route for me to pursue. -Bill B ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 04, 2003
From: "Brad Benson" <brad@cds-inc.com>
Subject: KLN89B + KI 209
Hey All, Does anyone know if the regular KI 209 (not the KI 209A) VOR/ILS indicator is compatible with the KLN 89B GPS? I have an opportunity to get one at a decent price, and I already have a Mid Continent ACU so I don't need the relay-switching capabilities of the 209A. Thanks! Brad "Sharpie" Benson RV6AQB underway... "Please buy my software, it's funding my RV6A project!" - http://www.notamd.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 04, 2003
From: Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org>
Subject: Re: Yet another new engine
> Try to be happy and content with one of the most reliable and > developed GA piston engines ever produced by mortal man. ;-) To say nothing of successful! I have no doubt there will still be people expressing this sentiment after yet another 50 years. Tedd McHenry Surrey, BC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "WernerOL" <spenner(at)olimpo.com.br>
Subject: Re: KLN89B + KI 209
Date: Aug 04, 2003
This is the answer I got from Bendix. Mr. Spenner, Unfortunately not. You would need the KI 208A(066-03056-0010) for a GPS input. Or the KI 209A(066-03056-0011). The non-"A" versions can not accept a GPS input. If you are looking for a used or overhauled unit, you might try Vista Aviation in California. They usually have a good selection of non-new equipment. Their number is 818-896-6442. John J. Shields Customer Sales Support Honeywell - Business, Regional & General Aviation Phone 913-712-2275 Fax 913-712-1335 john.shields2(at)honeywell.com Please visit our Website at: www.bendixking.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brad Benson" <brad@cds-inc.com> Subject: RV-List: KLN89B + KI 209 > > Hey All, > > Does anyone know if the regular KI 209 (not the KI 209A) VOR/ILS indicator is compatible with the KLN 89B GPS? I have an opportunity to get one at a decent price, and I already have a Mid Continent ACU so I don't need the relay-switching capabilities of the 209A. > > Thanks! > Brad "Sharpie" Benson > RV6AQB underway... > "Please buy my software, it's funding my RV6A project!" - http://www.notamd.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 04, 2003
From: "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com>
Subject: Altimeter Adjustment?
Anybody out there know how to adjust the relationship between the altitude and the window on the altimeter? I have one of those wonderfull Falcon altimeters and no suprise it's off by about 250 feet! Seems to have something to do with the screw just above the knob, but it's not clear what comes next after removing that screw... - Andy Karmy RV9A Seattle WA 110hrs TT! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 04, 2003
Subject: Re: of OAT probes and NACA ducts...
In a message dated 8/3/2003 5:14:58 PM Pacific Daylight Time, dougweil(at)pressenter.com writes: > some of our local guys > who have done this say that the carb temp is exactly that of OAT unless the > carb heat is on. Any opinions? Not true IMO. I have the VM dual temp gauge setup with the OAT probe in the NACA vent (which reads about 3-5 deg C high from the friction heating and boundary layer heat shed off the cowling) and the CAT probe in the carb body (warmer than OAT at partial throttle settings and cooler than OAT at WOT). -GV (RV-6A N1GV 642hrs) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Altimeter Adjustment?
Date: Aug 04, 2003
On the altimeters I have seen there is a small screw near the adjustment knob usually going in from the side so you might have to remove the altimeter to get at it. After the screw is removed you can pull the adjustment knob stem out a short way. This disengages the hands from the window so first you set the hands to the proper reading, remove the screw and then turn the window to the proper reading. Or maybe it's the other way around. And there may be other types of adjustment. Albert Gardner RV-9A 872RV ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 04, 2003
From: Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov>
Subject: Renesis Rotary (was: Yet another new engine)
Tracy, >But there really was a new & improved engine at Oshkosh. Rotor-heads >everywhere are jumping for joy at the introduction of the Renesis engine >(improved version of the 13B) in the Mazda RX-8. The Renesis makes 250 HP >normally aspirated compared to 160 for the earlier 13B. These are ratings >as installed in a car, I get about 185 from the 13B when it is free of the >tripple cat converter exhaust system and other automotive accessories. >Can't wait to retrofit my -4 with the new engine so I'll probably never get >to actually wear out a rotary. I read that the rotors 14% weigh less on the Renesis. Does the complete Renesis engine also weigh less than the RX-7 engine? Will your electronic control box work with the Renesis engine? The Renesis has a three-port induction system with the third port switched on at high speed. The Mazda folks claim this feature makes a big difference in fuel economy. How do you plan to work this in the air? Could this third port be closed for 65% economy cruise? How much do these Renesis engines cost? Are the even available in the USA? Do you plan to resell them, perhaps rebuilt? Thanks in advance for the info. >Tracy Crook >13B powered RV-4 1350 hrs >20B powered RV-8 next year at Osh for sure! > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 04, 2003
From: Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov>
Subject: Re: Altimeter Adjustment?
> >Anybody out there know how to adjust the relationship between the altitude >and the window on the altimeter? Here is a link http://www.mrkent.com/flying/altimeter/ They all adjust in a similar manner, but the exact details often vary. Typically, the knob pulls out (or moves in) a little to make the calibration. On the odd-ball altimeter I have, you loosen the screw on the knob, slip the knob away from the face a bit, re-tighten the knob, then push it in. This allows you to move the needle without moving the numbers in the window. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 04, 2003
From: kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: of OAT probes and NACA ducts...
I wonder if some of the high temperature is due to the compression of the air into the vent and hose? K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne RV6-a N7HK flying! PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 04, 2003
From: Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org>
Subject: Re: Altimeter Adjustment?
On the altimeter with the screw on the front by the knob you back the screw almost all the way out and then slide it to the left or away from the knob. That releases the adjustment knob so you can pull it out. Then you can adjust the Kolsman window without moving the needles. Dave Albert Gardner wrote: > >On the altimeters I have seen there is a small screw near the adjustment >knob usually going in from the side so you might have to remove the >altimeter to get at it. After the screw is removed you can pull the >adjustment knob stem out a short way. This disengages the hands from the >window so first you set the hands to the proper reading, remove the screw >and then turn the window to the proper reading. Or maybe it's the other way >around. And there may be other types of adjustment. >Albert Gardner >RV-9A 872RV > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "phillip wiethe" <pwiethe(at)charter.net>
Subject: RV-8/8A Fuselage jig wanted
Date: Aug 04, 2003
Anyone near the southeast michigan area with an RV-8/8A Fuselage jig that they are willing to part with, please contact me off line. Thanks, Phil ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com>
Subject: Re: [rv8list] Propellor Choice
Date: Aug 04, 2003
86" is the pitch... The diameter is either 70" or 72"... Take a look at the Sensenich web site: http://www2.sensenich.com/direct/vans.htm Also, I'm pretty sure the -8 can take a 74" prop because Van is selling a new 74" Hartzel... -Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: Lenleg(at)aol.com Subject: Re: [rv8list] Propellor Choice In a message dated 7/25/2003 10:02:34 PM Eastern Daylight Time, dpsste(at)aol.com writes: > 86 " prop seems like a lot of prop for an airplane that you wheel land and > pin to the runway most of the time. Most landings are great but occasionally > > when wheel landing the 8 you can get into a situation that requires you to > firmly > pin the airplane. Even without the firm pin an 86 " prop seems like it would > > be getting close to that runway, Have you measured the distance when the > aircraft is at level pitch. Just curious. > > Pat > Wayne Williams in Danville, Va is running an 86 Sensenich FP in his 8A with no clearance problems. rwayne(at)gamewood.net Len Leggette RV-8A N901LL Greensboro, N.C. 116 hours !! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 04, 2003
Subject: Re: Altimeter Adjustment?
In a message dated 8/4/2003 1:05:17 PM Pacific Daylight Time, andy(at)karmy.com writes: > Anybody out there know how to adjust the relationship between the altitude > and the window on the altimeter? > > I have one of those wonderful Falcon altimeters and no surprise it's off by > about 250 feet! > > Seems to have something to do with the screw just above the knob, but it's > not clear what comes next after removing that screw. Actually you don't want to remove the screw, if it's anything like other altimeters I've had. Reseat the screw, adjust the setting in the window to the ATIS reported value. Then back the screw out until the head is no longer within the recess and push the whole screw (along with the brass slug it is threaded into) straight away from of the adjusting knob axis (approx 10:00 O'clock). Then pull the adjusting knob out slightly (to unmesh the gears) and turn the knob until the field elevation is indicated by the needle. Push back in (to remesh the gears), slide the screw and slug back to retain the shaft and reseat the screw. -GV (RV-6A N1GV 642hrs) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott Brown" <scottbrown(at)precisionjet.com>
Subject: Full leading edge tank skins
Date: Aug 05, 2003
Listers, As you can probably tell, I am cleaning out my hangar. I have some full leading edge tanks skins, for those that would want to make a very large fuel tank. Asking $200 each. If interested, please contact me offline at scottbrown(at)precisionjet.com. Thanks! Scott ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVer273sb(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 05, 2003
Subject: slick mag gear
Looking for a non impulse slick mag drive gear. Anyone out there have one? Thanks, Stewart RV-4 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott Brown" <scottbrown(at)precisionjet.com>
Subject: PARACHUTE
Date: Aug 05, 2003
Listers, I purchased a Pitts awhile back and this chute came with it. I am not going to use it. It is a very thin chute. Would work great for RVs. Chute needs to be repacked. The last time I had that done it was $35 bucks. New slim line chutes are running $1200. Best reasonable fair offer gets the chute. Not interested in low ballers. Scott ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 05, 2003
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com

From: "Crosley, Rich" <RCROSLEY(at)HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM>
Subject: Fixed Pitch Props Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 09:40:54 -0700 I am planning on running a Sensenich on a 0-360, RV-8. Which prop seems to be working best for everyone 85" or 86"? Is the cruise prop giving you a descent climb? Rich Crosley Palmdale, CA RV-8 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 05, 2003
Subject: New ASEK Survival/Egress Knife
From: czechsix(at)juno.com
Guys, has anyone seen the military's new aircraft survival/egress knife? The link below shows a picture of it with some info, and states that it can be purchased on the web for under $50. I could only find one website selling it, and they wanted $89 for it. Anybody aware of a less expensive source? Maybe if a bunch of us were interested, we could do a group order for a discount... --Mark Navratil Cedar Rapids, Iowa RV-8A N2D painting...and still mad at the fly who landed in the fresh paint on my perfectly glossy wheel pant last night just after I finished spraying it. He's dead now. But my wheel pant is flawed...horrors! -----Original Message----- From: James Meade [mailto:jnmeade(at)southslope.net] Subject: [EAA Chapter 33] ASEK survival knife If I remember right, some club members were discussing what it would take to get out of a plexiglass canopy in the event of a crash. Here is what the Army has developed as a helicopter pilot's survival knife. It cuts seat belts, breaks canopy, etc. http://www.army.mil/usar/news/2003/07jul/asek.html The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand! Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tracy Crook" <lors01(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Renesis Rotary (was: Yet another new engine)
Date: Aug 05, 2003
Bill, The weight reductions on the Renesis are said to be about 30% compared to the earlier 13B. This is mostly due to the external parts (intake & exhaust) that we don't use for aircraft applications. The core engine is about 5 pounds lighter, nice but not a huge weight savings. The lighter rotors account for the higher usable RPM & HP. The intake system for aircraft use will be nothing like the one in the RX-8. The large improvements in fuel economy are mainly at low throttle settings (which is where it mostly runs in cars). At high throttle the improvement is around 5%, again nice but not huge. The EGT is about 150 - 200 degrees cooler with the new exhaust porting which is very nice. New versions of the EC2 engine management controller for the Renesis are already in the works. Also a new higher ratio gear drive (2.85 : 1) to utilize the higher powerband (250 HP). Also rotates the prop in the "right" direction for those who can't imagine using left rudder on takeoff. If the idea of 8000 rpm just doesn't work for you the Renesis will still make 200 - 210 HP with the current 2.176 : 1 drive at a sedate 6300 rpm. Not bad for an engine package weighing a bit less than an O - 320. The engine will be available as a crate engine but will take awhile for Mazda to fill the pipeline. Mechanic's net price on the engine is around $5750.00, pricey for a car engine but not bad in comparison to a Lyc. Tracy Crook Hopeless Rotorhead > > I read that the rotors 14% weigh less on the Renesis. Does the > complete Renesis engine also weigh less than the RX-7 engine? > > Will your electronic control box work with the Renesis engine? > > The Renesis has a three-port induction system with the third port > switched on at high speed. The Mazda folks claim this feature makes a big > difference in fuel economy. How do you plan to work this in the air? Could > this third port be closed for 65% economy cruise? > > How much do these Renesis engines cost? Are the even available in > the USA? Do you plan to resell them, perhaps rebuilt? > > Thanks in advance for the info. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com>
, "vansairforce"
Subject: Hughes H-1B Crash!
Date: Aug 05, 2003
I just read on the NTSB site that the replica Hughes H-1B crashed in Yellowstone National Park and the pilot was killed: http://www1.faa.gov/avr/aai/M_0805_N.txt I checked the registration number, and it appears to be the one that was just built by Jim Wright in Cottage Grove, Oregon, and that was supposed to appear at Oshkosh this year: http://www.eaa.org/communications/eaanews/pr/030509_h1b_racer.html -Bill VonDane RV-8A - 115 hrs www.vondane.com www.creativair.com www.epanelbuilder.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com>
, "vansairforce"
Subject: Re: [c-a] Hughes H-1B Crash!
Date: Aug 05, 2003
Newspaper article: http://www.yellowstone.net/newspaper/ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com> ; "vansairforce" Subject: [c-a] Hughes H-1B Crash! I just read on the NTSB site that the replica Hughes H-1B crashed in Yellowstone National Park and the pilot was killed: http://www1.faa.gov/avr/aai/M_0805_N.txt I checked the registration number, and it appears to be the one that was just built by Jim Wright in Cottage Grove, Oregon, and that was supposed to appear at Oshkosh this year: http://www.eaa.org/communications/eaanews/pr/030509_h1b_racer.html -Bill VonDane RV-8A - 115 hrs www.vondane.com www.creativair.com www.epanelbuilder.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com>
Subject: Hughes H1-B Crash
Date: Aug 05, 2003
That plane was at OSH and was the most beautiful metal work I have ever seen...it was done so well that seams between adjoining sheets of metal were so tight you couldn't have forced a piece of very thin paper into the crack...in fact, there was no crack. The flush riveting was beyond anything I have ever seen on any military plane, or any RV for that matter, including award winning RV's who's metal work is often outstanding. What a shame for the loss of the pilot most importantly, and for a magnificant piece of artristry., John ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 05, 2003
From: Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org>
Aerobatic List
Subject: Formation List?
I'm thinking of approaching Matt about a formation list. Let me know if you'd be interested in joining it. Yes, I know there's a Yahoo formation group, but I'm not a yahoo. Tedd McHenry Surrey, BC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net>
Subject: Re: Hughes H-1B Crash!
Date: Aug 05, 2003
Incredibly sad news......not only did we lose a comrade, but one of the nicest airplanes ever built. I got a good look at it at the Golden west fly in a few weeks ago and it made those P-51's look like turds... I'm bummed out.... Evan ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com> ; "vansairforce" Subject: RV-List: Hughes H-1B Crash! > > I just read on the NTSB site that the replica Hughes H-1B crashed in Yellowstone National Park and the pilot was killed: > http://www1.faa.gov/avr/aai/M_0805_N.txt > > I checked the registration number, and it appears to be the one that was just built by Jim Wright in Cottage Grove, Oregon, and that was supposed to appear at Oshkosh this year: > http://www.eaa.org/communications/eaanews/pr/030509_h1b_racer.html > > -Bill VonDane > RV-8A - 115 hrs > www.vondane.com > www.creativair.com > www.epanelbuilder.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 05, 2003
From: P M Condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org>
Subject: Low cost fresh air mask for painting Polyurethane paints and
such Two fellow builders urged me to write this up for the Matronics group since they both made a system like mine after seeing my air system in person in my hanger.... I used my old scuba divers mask I had from 10 years ago when I got my diver certification as a paint mask to supply fresh air (to me) when spraying the "bad" paints. I used a Avery small, light weight air hose, installed a male Avery coupling into the nose area of the mask and with a small 5 dollar pressure regulator I "Tee" into the air for the spray gun and force air into the scuba mask. Exhale thru your mouth and there you have a "fresh air breathing system" for the nasty paints. Divers mask also keeps your eyes protected during mixing and applying the paint. Keey your air compressor up wind and 40 feet or more away from you, and I even use a house box fan to keep "up-up" wind blowing on the compressor to insure real fresh air gets into the compressor since I am breathing the air. Finally, I am using one of those baseball sized, orange inline oil and moisture filter/seporators to the fresh air source to keep any oil fumes(from the compressor) from getting into the breathing air. I suspect I would get fish eye in my paint as a indicator or presence of oil....so far no tell-tail oir present in my paint, so I assume there is no oil in my lungs. System works nice and there is little to no cost here. I balked at the cost of the hobby-air system...at ore then 600 dollars (shipping, tax and handling) I think that excessive. If you purchased everything new, I doubt that you would have 40 to 50 dollars into this "home brew" system. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Joel Haynes <joelhaynes(at)tds.net>
Subject: Bought a GPS @ OSH and kept $350 in my pocket
Date: Aug 05, 2003
RV Listers The following is an unsolicited GPS testimonial. DELETE if not interested. I went to OSH intending to buy a Garmin GPS196 (going price at the show of $850) but ended up with the new Lowrance WAAS Capable AIRMAP 500 ($499) and had $350 left over. If you factor in the fact that the Lowrance unit comes standard with every accessory including MapCreate software to create detailed land maps when you are operating in land or marine mode, the price savings is even greater since Garmin charges significantly more bucks for this feature add on. In aviation mode, the Lowrance unit has a full Americas Jepp database with all intersections, NDBs, VORs etc. as well as class B, C, and D airspace. Jepp updates are available via internet download for only 35 bucks. It has NMEA output through a single COM port supporting baud rates from 1200 to 115,200 so it can be used to drive an autopilot such as the TruTrack. My favorite aviation characteristic is the very nice HSI page with a fully controllable OBS setting allowing you to easily navigate to or from any fix on any radial. This same page also shows course, bearing, track, ETE, GS, Distance, Altitude, and cross track error. Finally, it is very slim and light and fits nicely into a pants pocket when you're on the ground (while maintaining a satelite lock). When you're hiking, it plots trails and allows you to store more waypoints than you would ever need. When traveling, the MapCreate software allows you to load in detailed land maps complete with addresses and map loc! ations of restaurants, hotels, emergency services, etc. in large geographic regions of the U.S. The LCD screen is easy to read but is smaller than the 196 (3.0 inch diagonal versus 3.8 for the garmin). While the HIS graphic is very nice and responsive, the numerical readouts for distance, course, etc.on that page are a bit small (the HSI rose is big). However, it does have a nice backlight feature for dim lighting. It's also very nice in direct sunlight. In an ideal world I would like to have the larger screen of the 196 and the price tag of the AIRMAP 500 but that ain't gonna happen for a while. All in all the 500 gives you a lot of GPS for a great price. Joel Haynes Mazomanie, WI 7a wings finishing up fuse on the way ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 05, 2003
From: "Tim Bryan" <tim(at)bryantechnology.com>
Subject: F696 fit to fuselage
Hello listers, I have a question regarding the fit of the F696 braket (fuselage to wing tank ). If I were to bolt the bracket to the T605 Tank bracket flat against each other the F696 will not fit flat against the fuselage. Or vice a versa The plans don't show it but am I supposed to install some kind of a wedge spacer on one end or the other? Also I have heard talk of sloting one of these brackets to allow the wings to fold back in a crash without rupturing the tank. Is this so? and if so, which bracket should get the slot? Thanks Tim RV-6 N616TB ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 05, 2003
From: Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov>
Subject: Re: Renesis Rotary
> > > The large improvements in fuel economy are mainly at low throttle settings >(which is where it mostly runs in cars). At high throttle the improvement >is around 5%, again nice but not huge. The EGT is about 150 - 200 degrees >cooler with the new exhaust porting which is very nice. I guess the energy is going into the output shaft rather than into the exhaust. >New versions of the EC2 engine management controller for the Renesis are >already in the works. Also a new higher ratio gear drive (2.85 : 1) to >utilize the higher powerband (250 HP). Also rotates the prop in the "right" >direction for those who can't imagine using left rudder on takeoff. If the >idea of 8000 rpm just doesn't work for you the Renesis will still make 200 - >210 HP with the current 2.176 : 1 drive at a sedate 6300 rpm. Not bad for >an engine package weighing a bit less than an O - 320. This Renesis set-up is going to be a screamer. Sounds like we are getting close to 1 lb per HP firewall-forward package weight. With the tight cowl these engines will fit in, this should make a VERY fast RV. I was wondering how they boosted the HP so dramatically without an increase in displacement. Duh, RPM. These engines wear like iron anyway. Do you think sustained operation at this higher RPM will make a difference in the TBO for the engine? >The engine will be available as a crate engine but will take awhile for >Mazda to fill the pipeline. Mechanic's net price on the engine is around >$5750.00, pricey for a car engine but not bad in comparison to a Lyc. > >Tracy Crook >Hopeless Rotorhead You are turning me into one as well. :-) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com>
Subject: F696 fit to fuselage
Date: Aug 05, 2003
Tim, The instructions for my RV-8A says that the brackets may need to be shaped or rounded to fit the fuselage. As for the slot, Van's has an inexpensive kit that has the instructions and a few small pieces of hardware if I remember correctly, that shows how to do it. I remember that one of Van's tech support guys didn't agree with the instructions and liked his way better. I don't remember what his way was. Terry RV-8A finish Seattle Hello listers, I have a question regarding the fit of the F696 braket (fuselage to wing tank ). If I were to bolt the bracket to the T605 Tank bracket flat against each other the F696 will not fit flat against the fuselage. Or vice a versa The plans don't show it but am I supposed to install some kind of a wedge spacer on one end or the other? Also I have heard talk of sloting one of these brackets to allow the wings to fold back in a crash without rupturing the tank. Is this so? and if so, which bracket should get the slot? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 05, 2003
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: F696 fit to fuselage
You need a big hammer to either open or close the bend. Remember reading that in the instructions. > > > Hello listers, > >I have a question regarding the fit of the F696 braket (fuselage to wing >tank ). If I were to bolt the bracket to the T605 Tank bracket flat against >each other the F696 will not fit flat against the fuselage. Or vice a versa > The plans don't show it but am I supposed to install some kind of a wedge >spacer on one end or the other? > >Also I have heard talk of sloting one of these brackets to allow the wings >to fold back in a crash without rupturing the tank. Is this so? and if so, >which bracket should get the slot? > >Thanks > >Tim RV-6 >N616TB > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net>
Subject: Re: F696 fit to fuselage
Date: Aug 05, 2003
Hi Tim, I think you will find reference to bending the fuselage mounted angle either on the drawing or in the instruction manual. I'm working from memory on this, its been about three years since I did this. I remember bending mine in the vise as follows: Clamp in vice with soft jaws in place. Put large flat metal mass on top of the angle flange. Hit with short handle four pound sledge with moderate force. Adjust degree of bent with lighter hits. Trial fit pieces in place on the air frame. Finish shaping of flanges after bending both parts to fit. The slot was not indicated on my older plans and drawings set. the concept came along a bit later and I am not sure if it is now indicated in or on some form of Vans documentation or not. The slot can be in either one of the flanges. As the slot is there primarily to take the load in vertical shear the idea is to get a the slot to have a good close tolerance fit to the bolt shank. I suppose all four brackets could be slotted without loss of attachment integrity. when fitted the bolt should be tightened to a low torqued snug fit to allow the tank to pull cleanly away from the fuselage in the event of mishap.(:-(! Jim in Kelowna > > > Hello listers, > > I have a question regarding the fit of the F696 braket (fuselage to wing > tank ). If I were to bolt the bracket to the T605 Tank bracket flat against > each other the F696 will not fit flat against the fuselage. Or vice a versa > The plans don't show it but am I supposed to install some kind of a wedge > spacer on one end or the other? > > Also I have heard talk of sloting one of these brackets to allow the wings > to fold back in a crash without rupturing the tank. Is this so? and if so, > which bracket should get the slot? > > Thanks > > Tim RV-6 > N616TB > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Hughes H1-B Crash
Date: Aug 05, 2003
I agree with John completely. I only allowed myself a few minutes to look at it at OSH (damn!) but I have never seen an airplane so beautifully built. Not in 10 Oshkoshes attended so far. Inside the wheel wells you could see the gorgeous varnished dark brown mahogany wooden spar joined to the fuselage structure with polished metal brackets. It gave the impression that every single piece of metal on the airplane was polished alloy. It was a work of art. What a terrible shame. I weep for the pilot, his family and the plane. Curt > That plane was at OSH and was the most beautiful metal work I have ever > seen...it was done so well that seams between adjoining sheets of metal were > so tight you couldn't have forced a piece of very thin paper into the > crack...in fact, there was no crack. The flush riveting was beyond anything > I have ever seen on any military plane, or any RV for that matter, including > award winning RV's who's metal work is often outstanding. What a shame for > the loss of the pilot most importantly, and for a magnificant piece of > artristry., > > John > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com>
Subject: Re: Hughes H-1B Crash!
Date: Aug 05, 2003
I spoke with Jim Wright for half an hour Monday morning while I was waiting for the WX to clear so I could leave. He was as excited as a school girl at the prom and that was after a whole week at OSH. It was a goregous airplane and it is a terrible shame! Thoughts and prayers to all. Tailwinds, Doug Rozendaal ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com> ; "vansairforce" Subject: RV-List: Hughes H-1B Crash! > > I just read on the NTSB site that the replica Hughes H-1B crashed in Yellowstone National Park and the pilot was killed: > http://www1.faa.gov/avr/aai/M_0805_N.txt > > I checked the registration number, and it appears to be the one that was just built by Jim Wright in Cottage Grove, Oregon, and that was supposed to appear at Oshkosh this year: > http://www.eaa.org/communications/eaanews/pr/030509_h1b_racer.html > > -Bill VonDane > RV-8A - 115 hrs > www.vondane.com > www.creativair.com > www.epanelbuilder.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com>
Subject: Re: Bought a GPS @ OSH and kept $350 in my pocket
Date: Aug 05, 2003
First of all, didn't you buy a Airmap 100? The biggest reason for a Lowrance over a Garmin is the towers are listed with the altitude to the top in the Lowrance and not in the Garmin. Towers make a great landmark for correlating what you see on the GPS with the ground and the chart, and even better when you scud run you can stay clear of them. Tailwinds, Doug Roaendaal ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joel Haynes" <joelhaynes(at)tds.net> Subject: RV-List: Bought a GPS @ OSH and kept $350 in my pocket ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: STD-1211
Date: Aug 05, 2003
I wasn't aware that an engine came with both plugs installed. Cy Galley Editor, EAA Safety Programs cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rick Galati" <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> Subject: RV-List: Re: STD-1211 > > > The FRONT plug stays for fixed pitch. You remove it for a constant speed > and place another plug at the rear of the front main bearing cavity. > > Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh > > > Cy, > > Your advice seems to be in conflict with Lycoming Service Instruction 1435. I say SEEMS because there may be some ambiguity. According to SI 1435, to configure for fixed pitch operation, the front expansion plug must be removed, and the seal located a few inches aft must be pierced or on some engines, a 1102 pipe plug removed. Then the front expansion plug is replaced with an STD-1211. At least, this is how I interpret SI 1435. > > I don't usually cut and paste another person's post, but we are the RV community and lots of expensive new engines are being shipped. This issue is simply to important to gloss over. Read below. > > Rick: I think there is room for discussion here. I also have a new Lycoming 0-320 D1A. The ENGINE INSTALLATION CHECK LIST says and I quote: "IMPORTANT DOCUMENT. 1)Drain the preservative oil, 2)pre-oil the engine, 3)The crankshaft expansion plug: If the engine installation requires a variable pitch propeller, you must remove the expansion plug from the front of the crankshaft prior to installing the propeller. then it says: IF THE INSTALLATION REQUIRES A FIXED PITCH PROPELLOR, THE PLUG SHOULD STAY IN PLACE." It seems to be in direct conflict with service instruction 1435. I called Lycoming tech. support. He said leave the plug in place, your engine is set up for a fixed pitch propellor. He said this after looking up something on his notes and I think he confirmed with someone else. I am still not confident of what to do. I am 6 to 8 weeks away from hanging my engine, so I thought I would check this group and maybe even call Lycoming back and see if I get the same answer. If! > you want > the BRAND NEW check list that they sent me, email me your fax or address and I will send it to you. Has anyone else noticed this conflict in the instructions or am I missing something. Jack RV9A N489JE > > Rick Galati RV-6A FWF > > > --------------------------------- > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: Best 760 Channel VHF radio for an RV?
Date: Aug 05, 2003
I have returned from Osh with a big question about which 760 channel VHF is the best choice - for a 2 1/4" hole. Perhaps someone with better experience could give an expert evaluation for the archives, based upon what we heard this year. I am interested in "VALUE", not necessarily the cheapest (or most features). The evaluation criteria should include cost, features, ease of installation, availibility and quality of wiring harnesses, availibility of an integrated Intercom (with wiring harness, etc.), maintenance record, TSO? Quality of documentation, etc., etc. I have looked at the XCOM, MicroAir MA760 and the Becker. Are there others? Anyone interested in taking this question on ? ? Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop 90% Complete - Fairings ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 05, 2003
From: "Richard B. Rauch" <richardr(at)apcon.com>
Subject: KI209 & KLN89B Wiring
Would anyone have a wiring diagram and pin connections for a KI209 LOC Indicator and KLN89B GPS? Richard B. Rauch Email: richardr(at)apcon.com APCON, Inc. 17938 SW Upper Boones Ferry Rd. Portland, OR 97224 USA Ph: (503)639-6700 Fax: (503)639-6740 Web: www.apcon.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 06, 2003
Subject: Re:
In a message dated 8/5/2003 9:51:13 AM Pacific Daylight Time, owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com writes: > Is the cruise prop giving you a > descent climb? Is that something like "I been down so long, it looks like up". -GV (RV-6A N1GV 642hrs) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com>
Subject: Hughes H1-B Crash
Date: Aug 06, 2003
Ditto Curt. Wow, what a bummer. I too saw the plane for only a couple of minutes or so BUT spent more time talking to the pilot and builder (he said he was one of MANY people who built it). Makes it all so real when the first message you see after getting back from OSH is about the death of probably the last pilot you chatted with while there. Just goes to remind us to be thankful for each day as tommorrow is not promised. James > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Curt Reimer > Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2003 7:41 PM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: Hughes H1-B Crash > > > I agree with John completely. I only allowed myself a few minutes > to look at > it at OSH (damn!) but I have never seen an airplane so beautifully built. > Not in 10 Oshkoshes attended so far. Inside the wheel wells you could see > the gorgeous varnished dark brown mahogany wooden spar joined to the > fuselage structure with polished metal brackets. It gave the > impression that > every single piece of metal on the airplane was polished alloy. It was a > work of art. > > What a terrible shame. I weep for the pilot, his family and the plane. > > Curt > > > That plane was at OSH and was the most beautiful metal work I have ever > > seen...it was done so well that seams between adjoining sheets of metal > were > > so tight you couldn't have forced a piece of very thin paper into the > > crack...in fact, there was no crack. The flush riveting was beyond > anything > > I have ever seen on any military plane, or any RV for that matter, > including > > award winning RV's who's metal work is often outstanding. What > a shame for > > the loss of the pilot most importantly, and for a magnificant piece of > > artristry., > > > > John > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Will & Lynda Allen" <linenwool(at)comcast.net>
Subject: R-710 rudder horn brace doesn't fit?!?
Date: Aug 05, 2003
So has anyone else found the pre-drilled holes for the rudder horn brace that attach it to the 704 rib and 405 horn, not to line up? I could not get the holes to line up for the life of me without putting so much stress on the spar and rib that I'm sure it would crack before the plane was finished. The bummer is that if those predrilled holes weren't there, I could've drilled my own holes and it would've fit nicely......doh! I finally moved on to the elevator until I had time to call Van's. So this morning I finally call Van's. Someone there told me this has been a problem for others as well and they are thinking about not predrilling those holes anymore. In the meantime, he said they can't give me a non-predrilled horn brace because they are already fabricated with the holes. He then suggested that I cut off the flange that attaches to the horn and fabricate a new flange that would rivet to the horn and then rivet to the brace. Not my favorite option but I guess it will have to do. Just wondering if anyone else has had this problem as he said, and if so, what solution did you use? -Will Allen North Bend, Wa RV8 emp ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Best 760 Channel VHF radio for an RV?
Date: Aug 06, 2003
As discussed previously, http://www.mcp.com.au/xcom760/comparison/comparison.html XCOM 760 looks like the best, value or otherwise, but isn't available yet in the US but supposedly they are close to getting through the paperwork. Their built in itercom is fully functional (not just a hot mike and you don't you standby channel when you use it). good luck! >From: "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: RV-List: Best 760 Channel VHF radio for an RV? >Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 23:58:30 -0400 > > >I have returned from Osh with a big question about which 760 channel VHF is >the best choice - for a 2 1/4" hole. Perhaps someone with better >experience >could give an expert evaluation for the archives, based upon what we heard >this year. I am interested in "VALUE", not necessarily the cheapest (or >most features). >The evaluation criteria should include cost, features, ease of >installation, >availibility and quality of wiring harnesses, availibility of an integrated >Intercom (with wiring harness, etc.), maintenance record, TSO? Quality of >documentation, etc., etc. I have looked at the XCOM, MicroAir MA760 and >the Becker. Are there others? >Anyone interested in taking this question on ? ? >Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop > 90% Complete - Fairings > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: mstewart(at)qa.butler.com
teamrv(at)yahoogroups.com
Subject: Mason City formation clinic was a great success. Long
Date: Aug 06, 2003
version=2.53 For those of you who were not able to make the Mason City Iowa formation clinic a couple of weekends ago, you missed some of the best flying I have seen. Here is a taste of what you missed. First the airport. I was a little skeptical at first, having a clinic out in the middle of no where like that, but it turned out to be the best location for a clinic we have had. How's 3 runways 150' wide sound? Four ship formation takeoffs were a breeze. Traffic pattern busy? NOT!. There were a couple NW flights a day, and one Cherokee training that we saw in 3 days. It was like having our own oasis airport with no one to intervene. Even the airport manager came out to greet us. She of course was happy to see the activity at the airport. Facilities? How's air-conditioned hangers sound? Well it was unbelievable. We were able to cram all the RV's into hangers. Oh, and throw in a little deli on the field. Terrain? The Mason city area is flat flat flat. Beautiful lakes, streams, and farmland. Everywhere you looked, there was a farm field awaiting the unwanted prop stoppage. The People? How's 2 RV formation flight teams sound? Stu McCurdy had is Falcon Flight Team, I brought Team RV, and others came from California to Florida. The newbees that came out got a first hand look into the world of precision formation demonstration flight by riding with the 2 flight teams in some demonstrations. Not to mention all the one on one training going on. 3 days of learning for everyone. The training? We start with a very thorough ground school for everyone. Old and new sit through the ins and outs of a formal formation training class. Then we break out into a couple of four ship runs with the newsbees right-seating to get a birds eye view of their end game. We find this a perfect starting point. All a newbee has to do is watch and take it all in. Then the newbees get to fly 2 ship formations, whilst an instructor right seats with them. Corrections and training are quickly reinforced this way and the newbee gets instant reinforcement and feedback. Whilst the newbees are training, others are up polishing their skills. By day three, it culminates into a large formation for everyone to participate in. I looked around with great pride many times at all the aviation learning that was going on. The Food? Did I mention that barbeque was flown in from out of state? Sweet corn boiled in a pot outside the hanger over a wooden fire? I mean you had to be there to believe it. We ate like kings. Accommodations? The hotel was a mile away. There were plenty of cars available provided by the host. The wives went out shopping during the day, visiting the local arts festival and dropping in on occasion to make sure the pilots were behaving themselves. The host? I can not give enough praise to the Rozendaal's. Doug and his wife did a terrific job playing host and had everything in order for us. From cars, to chairs, to projectors, to food. They were absolutely terrific. And who ever ordered the a/c in the hanger. Man he was right on. Oh and whilst we were waiting for the corn to sweeten, Doug took us for rides in his Bird Dog. L-1 I think. What a blast that was. You were first class Doug, many thanks from all of us. So what now? Well next year of course. We decided, and Doug graciously accepted, to keep this an annual pre-osh event. It is the perfect location, with the perfect planes, and the most fun of people. We hope to at minimum double the turnout next year. Lets put Mason City on the map. Hope to see you there. Mike Stewart Team RV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dwpetrus(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 06, 2003
Subject: Fwd: Louisiana Centennial of Flight Fly-in Series
HWDJAD(at)aol.com, jdgummere(at)dow.com, bobhalsell(at)yahoo.com, Travlnbus(at)aol.com, biff(at)mchsi.com, jgnorman(at)tampabay.rr.com, fesspark(at)email.com, rrogersjr(at)jam.rr.com, crogers1(at)jam.rr.com, RV-LIST(at)matronics.com Subject: Louisiana Centennial of Flight Fly-in Series Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2003 09:22:30 -0500 From: "Troy Toelle" <ttoelle(at)eaa.org> Hi Everyone, Well we've been off for our heat break and now it's time to crank the Louisiana Centennial of Flight Fly-in Series up again. The next event will be another event organized by Chapter 614 (yes, a total of 3 this year) and this one will be unique. Yes, I do know it is still hot so this next event is going to be mostly indoors and a great one to involve the spouses or significant others. Here are the details: 1st Annual Paragon Festival of Flight - Sat, Aug 16, 2003, Marksville, LA, Cajun Band at the airport, shuttle to Casino, $39.95 room rate for first 50 registered EAA members, $10.00 RV Park for all registered participants, 6 awards, free Fly-In T shirts to first 100 registrants, free buffets for the first 75 pilots and spouses who fly in and register, championship golf course, beautiful swimming pool, kid care available, forums of all types, EAA members and spouses (or friends) special awards banquet and party Sat night, many nice door prizes, and featuring the nationally know "Boogie Kings". Should be a great time for all. Contact Jim Moody at MOODY888(at)aol.com After that event, that will leave us five more great events to wrap up the series. Here is a list of the remaining events to make sure you get every one on your calendar: Event No. 6 September 13 Chapter 541 Fly-in, Jennings Event No. 7 October 11-12 Chapter 514 Fly-in, Houma Event No. 8 October 17-18 Chapter 614 Pineville Fall Fly-in Event No. 9 November 8-9 Chapter 971 Fly-in, Reserve Event No. 10 December 13-14 Chapter 261 Fly-in, New Orleans Lakefront Remember our goals for the series - celebrating the centennial, giving the public an up-close view at sport aviation, and increasing enthusiasm in the aviation community. The best thing you can do to help us achieve those goals is to be at every remaining event. Remember that everyone that registers at an event gets one entry to a year-end drawing for merchandise or services donated by our sponsors. Pilots flying into events get bonus entries for attending multiple fly-ins. Current sponsors include Pride Aviation, Brignac Aviation, Aircraft Spruce and Specialty Co., Rans Aircraft, Van's Aircraft, Angel Flight, EAA, Lancair and Exxon. More are on the way and additional sponsors are always welcome. We are using the Propclear website as our official information and communication site for the Fly-in series. Please check the calendar and the discussion board routinely. Here is the address... http://www.propclear.com/ For further information, please contact the series coordinator Jim Riviere at 225-869-3481 or email rivierja(at)cox.net. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Mason City formation clinic was a great success. Long
Date: Aug 06, 2003
Mike: Thanks for the very accurate post. I had planned to write something up but your words say it better than I can describe. I had a FANTASTIC time and will be there again next year to help out. I enjoyed meeting and flying with all the fine Team RV members from Atlanta as well as the new guys. Thanks for everything Doug, Stu, and Team RV. Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, 1,341 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com ----Original Message Follows---- From: mstewart(at)qa.butler.com teamrv(at)yahoogroups.com Subject: RV-List: Mason City formation clinic was a great success. Long Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2003 08:55:21 -0400 For those of you who were not able to make the Mason City Iowa formation clinic a couple of weekends ago, you missed some of the best flying I have seen. Here is a taste of what you missed. First the airport. I was a little skeptical at first, having a clinic out in the middle of no where like that, but it turned out to be the best location for a clinic we have had. How's 3 runways 150' wide sound? Four ship formation takeoffs were a breeze. Traffic pattern busy? NOT!. There were a couple NW flights a day, and one Cherokee training that we saw in 3 days. It was like having our own oasis airport with no one to intervene. Even the airport manager came out to greet us. She of course was happy to see the activity at the airport. Facilities? How's air-conditioned hangers sound? Well it was unbelievable. We were able to cram all the RV's into hangers. Oh, and throw in a little deli on the field. Terrain? The Mason city area is flat flat flat. Beautiful lakes, streams, and farmland. Everywhere you looked, there was a farm field awaiting the unwanted prop stoppage. The People? How's 2 RV formation flight teams sound? Stu McCurdy had is Falcon Flight Team, I brought Team RV, and others came from California to Florida. The newbees that came out got a first hand look into the world of precision formation demonstration flight by riding with the 2 flight teams in some demonstrations. Not to mention all the one on one training going on. 3 days of learning for everyone. The training? We start with a very thorough ground school for everyone. Old and new sit through the ins and outs of a formal formation training class. Then we break out into a couple of four ship runs with the newsbees right-seating to get a birds eye view of their end game. We find this a perfect starting point. All a newbee has to do is watch and take it all in. Then the newbees get to fly 2 ship formations, whilst an instructor right seats with them. Corrections and training are quickly reinforced this way and the newbee gets instant reinforcement and feedback. Whilst the newbees are training, others are up polishing their skills. By day three, it culminates into a large formation for everyone to participate in. I looked around with great pride many times at all the aviation learning that was going on. The Food? Did I mention that barbeque was flown in from out of state? Sweet corn boiled in a pot outside the hanger over a wooden fire? I mean you had to be there to believe it. We ate like kings. Accommodations? The hotel was a mile away. There were plenty of cars available provided by the host. The wives went out shopping during the day, visiting the local arts festival and dropping in on occasion to make sure the pilots were behaving themselves. The host? I can not give enough praise to the Rozendaal's. Doug and his wife did a terrific job playing host and had everything in order for us. From cars, to chairs, to projectors, to food. They were absolutely terrific. And who ever ordered the a/c in the hanger. Man he was right on. Oh and whilst we were waiting for the corn to sweeten, Doug took us for rides in his Bird Dog. L-1 I think. What a blast that was. You were first class Doug, many thanks from all of us. So what now? Well next year of course. We decided, and Doug graciously accepted, to keep this an annual pre-osh event. It is the perfect location, with the perfect planes, and the most fun of people. We hope to at minimum double the turnout next year. Lets put Mason City on the map. Hope to see you there. Mike Stewart Team RV ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 06, 2003
From: Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net>
Subject: Re: Hughes H-1B Crash!
>I saw the H-1B on the ramp on Sunday before the show actually started and >I had time to actually bicycle around with my daughter. I went nuts when >I saw that plane. I think I took about about half a dozen pictures of >it. It was the most beautiful airplane I had ever seen. Fortunately I >had the opportunity to thank Jim Wright for building it so that I could >see it and act like a fool drooling over it. Even my daughter remarked >how she had never seen me react to an airplane like that. I just couldn't >get over the workmanship and style that the airplane projected as it sat >on the ramp. Not even moving it looked like it was doing 300! It was a >piece of artwork as well as a functioning airplane. I get my pictures >developed today so I will look at them with great sadness. Mr. >Wright was a very proud and humble owner and made sure you knew that he >had a lot of help building it. He will be missed. My prayers go out for >him and his family. (I hope that doesn't offend anyone!) AL ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: F696 fit to fuselage
Date: Aug 06, 2003
On my 8A, the slot goes in the tank bracket. Leaving the fuselage bracket whole allows you to rivet a MK1000-428 minature platenut to the aft side of the bracket with the tabs of the platenut oriented to parallel the slot. A precise hole and properly oriented platenut stabilizes the attach bolt so it is less likely to twist and catch if the fuel tank is being ripped off. Dave Reel - RV8A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dean Pichon" <DeanPichon(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Flop tube resting point
Date: Aug 06, 2003
I have flop tubes in both tanks of my -4. The pick-up from each tube is located directly over the drain hole. I have not experienced any problems. Shortening the tube would increase the amount of unuseable fuel without (in my opinion) improving function. Good luck, Dean Pichon RV-4, 150 hours Morgantown, WV ----- Original Message ----- From: James Jula Subject: RV-List: Flop tube resting point I just checked the resting position of the flop tube and noticed that the head rests in the center of the drain hole. There appears to be adequate room for water and debris to be drained, but it still worries me a bit. I could shorten it, but is that necessary? Thanks, James ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Subject: high voltage cable testers
Date: Aug 06, 2003
My high voltage cable tester keeps blowing fuses after 2-3 seconds of use. Can anyone advise if this problem could have anything to do with the ignition system, as opossed to simply the tester going bad? For a little history, during my annual I found an intermittent cable to the plug on Cylinder 4T. So, I replaced it. At that time, the tester worked fine on it and the other 7 leads. After the replacement, I took a 20 minute flight. About 10 minutes into the flight, every 2-3 minutes the engine would lose and quickly regain about 100 rpm. I never noticed it on the tach. The sensation was only audible. All else on the engine is good; compression, timing, temps and pressures, rpm, smoothness. I suspected a bad cable as that was what just changed, so I went to recheck them, which is where I found the problem with the tester blowing fuses. Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Andy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net>
Subject: Constant Speed vs. Fixed Pitch
Date: Aug 06, 2003
This subject comes up regularly on the list and is all in the achieves. For those who are interested go into the achieves and search under "ebowhay" then go to Oct/98 and you will find my post on the Sensenich 72FM propeller. Then go to Jan/99 and find "Engines Care and Feeding", print a copy of each and compare the info. The Sensenich prop was just as good as the constant speed in cruise, however it was not possible to cruise at the setting I prefer, between 65 and 70 % (2350-2400 and 21-22 inches manifold pressure). It was turning 2500 at 20.5, it would need a bit courser pitch to run at 24 and 21-22 but then take-off and climb performance would be lower. A fixed pitch prop is a compromise, but what's wrong with 175-180 mph at 2400 and 19 inches? The constant speed will not do that at that setting, you would have to be at 2400 and 21-22. I am sure the speeds will vary between different RV6's but this was the numbers we got in Holmer's aircraft. Also in the case of an engine failure you will glide a lot further with the fixed pitch than the constant speed if you forget to select course pitch, and this is dependent on oil pressure. On the subject of the "Care and feeding"which requires a constant speed prop, I am sure many will disagree with this or say I am too nit-picky but these procedures have proved to be the best contributions to long engine life and safety in my experience. My hair starts to curl and get a bit whiter than it already is when I hear of some running at near redline RPM's and over. Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Grenwis(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 06, 2003
Subject: KT-78A wiring info
I bought a used KT-78A transponder without the manual. If anyone has that manual, can you please provide the pinout number/letter and functional description info for the unit. I have the manual for the encoder so I can match by function for the A1, A2, A4, etc lines. Many thanks. Rick Grenwis RV-6A QB Slider, Instrument Panel http://rickgrenwis.tripod.com/rv6a The Plains, VA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com>
"vansairforce" ,
Subject: OFF TOPIC...
Date: Aug 06, 2003
Sorry for the off topic message, but I have been on the Internet all day trying to find a GOOD Windows Administration Email list... I am looking for a group of KNOWLEDGEABLE Windows Administrators to correspond with... If you know of such a plane, please contact me off list: -Bill bill(at)vondane.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 06, 2003
From: Garry Legare <versadek(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Earthlink Fraud !!!Danger!!!
There is a very official looking Email going out to Earthlink subscribers. It looks like a request to update your account information. It almost fooled me except it was asking way too much information, and I noticed that it was from earthlink.com not .net. I know this is not RV related, but it could cost you big time. Casper ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 06, 2003
From: "Tim Bryan" <tim(at)bryantechnology.com>
Subject: Re: F696 fit to fuselage
Thanks to all who have replied regarding this. I took the bracket to my vise and squeezed it in there until the angle opened up to the right angle. I had do do it several times because I was too shy to get after it, but it is perfect now. I have soft jaws in my vise and it took a little pressure but got it done. After I get done fitting I will remove the wing and slot the tank bracket Thanks Again Tim RV-6 N616TB ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-8 BOM
Date: Aug 06, 2003
I'm working on an estimated costed Bill Of Material (BOM) for my RV-8A. It will be used for getting quotes. I want to make it as complete as possible down to lighting, paint, interior, etc. Can anyone suggest where I might find one or more for reference? ERic-- RV-8A Asheville, NC ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 06, 2003
From: Charlie & Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
Subject: Re: R-710 rudder horn brace doesn't fit?!?
Will & Lynda Allen wrote: > >So has anyone else found the pre-drilled holes for the rudder horn brace >that attach it to the 704 rib and 405 horn, not to line up? I could not get >the holes to line up for the life of me without putting so much stress on >the spar and rib that I'm sure it would crack before the plane was finished. >The bummer is that if those predrilled holes weren't there, I could've >drilled my own holes and it would've fit nicely......doh! I finally moved >on to the elevator until I had time to call Van's. > >So this morning I finally call Van's. Someone there told me this has been a >problem for others as well and they are thinking about not predrilling those >holes anymore. In the meantime, he said they can't give me a non-predrilled >horn brace because they are already fabricated with the holes. He then >suggested that I cut off the flange that attaches to the horn and fabricate >a new flange that would rivet to the horn and then rivet to the brace. Not >my favorite option but I guess it will have to do. Just wondering if anyone >else has had this problem as he said, and if so, what solution did you use? > >-Will Allen >North Bend, Wa >RV8 emp > I just did that assembly on my -7 (actually the -9) rudder & the holes attaching the brace to the rib's web & the spar's web fit fine on mine. I had to drill the holes attaching the brace to the rib flanges. (I couldn't find anything in the instructions about the need to drill these holes, but it's pretty obvious they are needed.) Are those the holes you are talking about? My kit was shipped sometime around March/early April of this year. Perhaps they changed the drilling scheme after yours was built. They acknowledged that this is a known problem? I'm going to go way out on a limb here & suggest that Van's send you parts that fit. You did pay for that, right? (If the problem holes are in the webs & not the flanges, you might be able to drill between the existing holes if they won't send a replacement.) Charlie ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JusCash(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 06, 2003
Subject: Off Airport Landing
With the loss of the H1-B I feel very, very lucky.=A0 This past Saturday I had to make an off airport landing in a hay field.=A0 The landing gear legs are bent and the motor mount is cracked.=A0 No other major damage except for the wheelpants.=A0 On approach to Hollister the engine quit when I switched tanks.=A0 Couldn't get it restarted so I concentrated on flying the airplane.=A0 The hay had just been cut so the field wasn't to rough.=A0 Walked to the airport and got help to tow it in on it's gear.=A0 My problem is Van's has an 8 to 10 week backlog on motor mounts and gear legs. Is there anyone on the list with an RV-6 or RV-7 motor mount and gear legs that they won't be using for 8 to 10 weeks?=A0 Or expecting a finish kit soon and not needing the mount and legs right away. If anyone can help me out I would really appreciate it. Cash Copeland RV-6 N46FC Hayward, Ca ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 06, 2003
From: Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: Off Airport Landing
> > >With the loss of the H1-B I feel very, very lucky.=A0 This past Saturday I had >to make an off airport landing in a hay field.=A0 The landing gear legs are >bent >and the motor mount is cracked.=A0 No other major damage except for the >wheelpants.=A0 On approach to Hollister the engine quit when I >switched tanks.=A0 > >Couldn't get it restarted so I concentrated on flying the airplane.=A0 The hay >had just >been cut so the field wasn't to rough.=A0 Walked to the airport and >got help to > >tow it in on it's gear.=A0 > >My problem is Van's has an 8 to 10 week backlog on motor mounts and gear >legs. >Is there anyone on the list with an RV-6 or RV-7 motor mount and gear legs >that they won't be using for 8 to 10 weeks?=A0 Or expecting a finish kit soon >and >not needing the mount and legs right away. If anyone can help me out I would >really appreciate it. > >Cash Copeland Cash - great job on keeping your priorities straight and flying the airplane first. I'm interested in learning why the engine quit, if you ever figure it out. How much fuel was in the tank you switched to? How long since it had run on that tank? Were you sideslipping? Could the fuel pickup have rotated up a bit, so that it was away from the bottom of the tank (assuming you don't have a flop tube). Or, if you have a flop tube, could it have hung up? I'm just hoping to learn as much from your experience as I can, so I can avoid repeating it myself. Good luck getting the plane back in the air quickly. -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit) Ottawa, Canada http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: F696 fit to fuselage
Date: Aug 06, 2003
Tim, My RV-6A plans call for the slot to be in the tank angle. On the fuselage angle I'm to rivet on a nut plate. The bolt is also safety wired. All parts came in my kit, except for the safety wire (but I'm not complaining one bit). This was also written up in a past Rvaitor and I think Van's has a kit of the parts to do this. A rather large washer is also needed. As for the bending the angle, I had to "open" up the 90 degree angle as the fuselage is tapering to the firewall at this point and so isn't flat to the fuselage when held in position flat against the tank angle. I put the fuselage angle in my padded vise and used a large, large, big even, crescent wrench to bent the angle upwards to open the mouth of the angle a few degrees. Not too much. Each side was different. Remember to pad the jaws on the crescent wrench with some 'go fast' tape. Hope this helps. Marty in Brentwood, TN ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 07, 2003
Subject: Re: Cell Phone Service-off topic
I realize this is grossly off topic, but I've been using Sprint PCS as my cell phone provider for the last year and a half and am looking to change services soon because so many of the places I go on flying trips are not served by Sprint PCS. This last trip to OSH there was no Sprint service at the following airport locales: Lewistown, MT Mitchell, SD Wendover, UT Casper, WY Mammoth, CA I'm looking to get input on which of the cell phone services you RV guys and gals have found satisfactory. I know that Verizon, at least, would have worked at Mitchell, but does V work at the other "off the beaten path" places. thx -GV (RV-6A N1GV 642hrs) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob n' Lu Olds" <oldsfolks(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re:Yet Another New Engine
Date: Jul 31, 2003
This mail is probably spam. The original message has been attached along with this report, so you can recognize or block similar unwanted mail in future. See http://spamassassin.org/tag/ for more details. Content preview: Also take a look at : http://www.dynacam.com/ This one has been around for years and was certified by FAA for some applications,I believe Bob Olds RV-4,N1191X [...] Content analysis details: (2.50 points, 5 required) used face date Also take a look at : http://www.dynacam.com/ This one has been around for years and was certified by FAA for some applications,I believe Bob Olds RV-4,N1191X ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob n' Lu Olds" <oldsfolks(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re:Cell phone service
Date: Aug 07, 2003
This mail is probably spam. The original message has been attached along with this report, so you can recognize or block similar unwanted mail in future. See http://spamassassin.org/tag/ for more details. Content preview: We have used "Alltel - Total Freedom" in our other RV ( Fifth Wheel Trailer) for several years. The total freedom program gives us free roaming and free long distance anywhere in the USA. It is a dual range (Analog/digital)service with good coverage wherever we've used it. [...] Content analysis details: (3.50 points, 5 required) used face We have used "Alltel - Total Freedom" in our other RV ( Fifth Wheel Trailer) for several years. The total freedom program gives us free roaming and free long distance anywhere in the USA. It is a dual range (Analog/digital)service with good coverage wherever we've used it. Bob n' Lu Olds Charleston,Arkansas ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob n' Lu Olds" <oldsfolks(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re:Off Airport Landing
Date: Aug 07, 2003
This mail is probably spam. The original message has been attached along with this report, so you can recognize or block similar unwanted mail in future. See http://spamassassin.org/tag/ for more details. Content preview: I had a similar incident in the past and the engine

July 23, 2003 - August 06, 2003

RV-Archive.digest.vol-oc