RV-Archive.digest.vol-od
August 06, 2003 - August 21, 2003
mount was broken but the gear legs were OK. I would check them
again,they are really STRONG. Bob Olds Charleston,Arkansas [...]
Content analysis details: (0.90 points, 5 required)
used face
I had a similar incident in the past and the engine mount was broken but the gear
legs were OK. I would check them again,they are really STRONG.
Bob Olds
Charleston,Arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "aronsond" <aronsond(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cell Phone Service-off topic |
My ATT supported cell phone worked well all the way out and all the way back
from KOSH. started from VCB -FBR-RKS-KRWL-KBFF-FOD-OSH. It was roaming but
service ability was not a problem.
Dave Aronson
N504RV (drove the citabria N2683Z)
----- Original Message -----
From: <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cell Phone Service-off topic
>
> I realize this is grossly off topic, but I've been using Sprint PCS as my
> cell phone provider for the last year and a half and am looking to change
> services soon because so many of the places I go on flying trips are not
served by
> Sprint PCS. This last trip to OSH there was no Sprint service at the
following
> airport locales:
>
> Lewistown, MT
> Mitchell, SD
> Wendover, UT
> Casper, WY
> Mammoth, CA
>
> I'm looking to get input on which of the cell phone services you RV guys
and
> gals have found satisfactory.
>
> I know that Verizon, at least, would have worked at Mitchell, but does V
work
> at the other "off the beaten path" places.
>
> thx
>
> -GV (RV-6A N1GV 642hrs)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov> |
| Subject: | LED position lights. Ready to go! |
This was harder than I thought it was going to be, but I finally got all
my ducks in a row. The LED position light kits are ready to ship. Check out
the pictures of the new boards at:
http://www.killacycle.com/Lights.htm
I tossed in the PayPal buttons late last night (not 100% perfect, but they
work just fine) and I already have orders this morning!
Since I didn't want to pay an arm and a leg for the boards, I ordered them
on a "normal" delivery schedule. That is what took so long. I wanted to
have all the components on the shelf and I wanted to actually build and
test a pair of lights using one of the kit packets to be certain that the
product was 100% ready. I also wanted to see how long it took me to build a
set of lights so I could set a fair price for assembly.
I test fit the lights I built in my RV sheared wingtips and they fit
perfectly. There should be more than enough room to install Bill Von Dane's
landing lights without interference. If you trim away the blank area in the
center of the board, you could fit even larger landing lights if you cared to.
Also, I kept the LEDs at the extreme ends of the board so that a strobe
mounted in the center of the forward surface (sideward facing surface) of
the sheared tip would not block any of the light from the LEDs. Basically,
the LED position light "looks" above and below the centrally mounted strobe
(if present.)
I'll put up a picture of the lights mounted in the wingtip this weekend.
I'll also trim the picture sizes a bit so the page will load more quickly.
I'll also fix the PayPal buttons to look better. :-)
Looking forward,
Bill Dube'
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov> |
| Subject: | White LED Tail Light? |
Folks keep asking about an LED rear position light. I could make a kit,
but I didn't think anyone would be interested because they would cost so
much. Would folks be willing to pay $170 for an LED tail light kit? I don't
mind designing the kits if folks were genuinely interested.
Let me know,
Bill Dube'
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wilder, Scott" <SWilder(at)LOWEENTERPRISES.com> |
Hello, I'm about to rivet the leading edge assy on my -4, concerning
edge rolling to keep the edge from lifting after riveting, I know I can
roll or bend slightly the trailing edges of the skin but how about the
inboard edge? The one that will butt up to the tank skins. I am
hesitant to bend this edge for fear it will buckle elsewhere on the
edge, any suggestions would be appreciated.
Scott Wilder swilder(at)loweenterprises.com
925-383-9732 mobile
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re:Off Airport Landing |
Hi Bob,
You are right, the RV gear and motor mount are strong. The legs are now
bowed aft and the tires are towed out. We thought the motor mount was OK but
found cracks in a couple of welds. The gear did it's job by absorbing the shock
of the landing and not braking away.
Cash
In a message dated 8/7/2003 6:58:44 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
oldsfolks(at)aol.com writes:
>
> I had a similar incident in the past and the engine mount was broken but the
> gear legs were OK. I would check them again,they are really STRONG.
>
> Bob Olds
> Charleston,Arkansas
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Hughes" <Stephen.J.Hughes(at)nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | new builder purchasing tools |
I am getting ready to build an RV10 and am about to purchase my
tools. I've searched the archives and believe that most of you in this
group think that the Avery or Cleaveland RV kits are a good place to
start. I realize that several feel that a few dollars can be saved by
piecing the set together from whichever vendor sells the component cheaper,
but I have not been able to find that to be true working from the exact
parts lists. I also saw it suggested that significant savings can be
realized if I try and find a builder who is finished and might be looking
to sell their tools. While I cannot imagine selling a tool once I've
bought it, I thought I'd give it a try and see if anyone in this group is
looking to part with there tools at a fair price. Please contact me at my
e-mail address if you are. Obviously I don't need my tools until sometime
in September/October when the empennage/tailcone kits begin to ship, but it
never hurts to be prepared early.
I am also planning on getting a pneumatic rivet squeezer (not in the
required tools list) with a couple of different yokes to allow me more
chances to use it. So, if anyone would like to recoup some of the cost of
their tools by selling a squeezer in good shape please contact me as well.
One last question, are the inexpensive drill presses and disk/belt sanders
available from harbor freight adequate for homebuilt construction?
Thanks in advance for any replies.
Steve
Stephen J. Hughes
Aerospace Engineer
NASA LaRC
1 North Dryden, MS 432
Hampton, VA 23681
(757)864-7175 (voice)
(757)864-7879 (fax)
Stephen.J.Hughes(at)nasa.gov
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Low fuel warning lights |
Does anyone have any comments on the low fuel warning system from
aircraftextras.com? It uses optical sensors to determine the level of the
fuel in the tanks and flashes a panel light when each tank gets down to a
pre-set level.
http://www.aircraftextras.com/
Thanks,
Terry
RV-8A finish
Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steven Eberhart <newtech(at)newtech.com> |
| Subject: | Re: edge rolling |
So far, I have finished my left wing and am in the process of starting
work on my right wing. I didn't roll any of the edges on my left wing
and much prefer the fit and look of it compared to the ones I have seen
that have been rolled. On most of the rolled edges I have seen the
tendency seems to be to over do the rolling. If you can VERY slightly
roll the edge it might look OK but the best looking planes do not seem
to have rolled edges. This just may be that they so very slightly
rolled the edge so it isn't obvious. Your mileage may vary. If you do
do it just use a very soft touch.
Steve Eberhart - RV-7A, one wing down, one to go
N14SE reserved
Wilder, Scott wrote:
>
> Hello, I'm about to rivet the leading edge assy on my -4, concerning
> edge rolling to keep the edge from lifting after riveting, I know I can
> roll or bend slightly the trailing edges of the skin but how about the
> inboard edge? The one that will butt up to the tank skins. I am
> hesitant to bend this edge for fear it will buckle elsewhere on the
> edge, any suggestions would be appreciated.
>
>
> Scott Wilder swilder(at)loweenterprises.com
>
> 925-383-9732 mobile
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cell Phone Service-off topic |
When my airplane came to rest in the hay field Saturday the first thing I did
was to try and call for help on 121.5. Couldn't raise anyone. That is a
real lonely feeling. What if I had been hurt or trapped? I turned on the cell
phone and it worked. I called my buddy's to let them know what happened and to
come and pick me up.
I have Verizon digital/anolog service. I have been all over the US in some
pretty out of the way places and it very seldom has not had a signal. There
have been times when folks have ask to use my phone because there's didn't work.
Cash Copeland
In a message dated 8/7/2003 12:18:44 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
Vanremog(at)aol.com writes:
>
>
> I realize this is grossly off topic, but I've been using Sprint PCS as my
> cell phone provider for the last year and a half and am looking to change
> services soon because so many of the places I go on flying trips are not
> served by
> Sprint PCS. This last trip to OSH there was no Sprint service at the
> following
> airport locales:
>
> Lewistown, MT
> Mitchell, SD
> Wendover, UT
> Casper, WY
> Mammoth, CA
>
> I'm looking to get input on which of the cell phone services you RV guys and
>
> gals have found satisfactory.
>
> I know that Verizon, at least, would have worked at Mitchell, but does V
> work
> at the other "off the beaten path" places.
>
> thx
>
> -GV (RV-6A N1GV 642hrs)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: new builder purchasing tools |
> One last question, are the inexpensive drill presses and disk/belt
sanders
> available from harbor freight adequate for homebuilt construction?
>
> Thanks in advance for any replies.
>
> Steve
>
> Stephen J. Hughes
> Aerospace Engineer
> NASA LaRC
> 1 North Dryden, MS 432
> Hampton, VA 23681
>
> (757)864-7175 (voice)
> (757)864-7879 (fax)
> Stephen.J.Hughes(at)nasa.gov
>
Steve, I have a drill press and several of the "el cheapo" sanders as well
as air drill, grinders, etc. from Harbor Freight. The drill press has been
abused for over 15 years (I have used it on occassion as a light milling
machine) and still performs. The sanders all continue to operate fine after
more than 10 years. So considering the price, I think I more than got my
money's worth. In fact the only machinery I've had fail was a more
expensive DELTA table saw which I did not get from Harbor Freight. If I had
been forced to go "top of the line", I simply would not have been able to
afford those tools.
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Off Airport Landing |
Hi Kevin,
I'm still not sure what happened. My calculations show that I should have
had 3 gals in the original tank and 5 gals in the tank I switched to. I have a
sneaking suspicion that I had carb ice. When I got the airplane to the
airport it started right up.
While attempting the restart I found it is really hard to fly the airplane
with one hand on the starter switch and the other on the throttle. I really
didn't have time to re-trim for the power off glide. Thats when I made the
decision to fly the airplane to the ground. I have done power off landings but
an
engine out is a whole different ball game. With the constant speed prop and
no engine power the airplane comes down like a rock. At best glide speed it
was coming down at over 800fpm.
For those who offered me a motor mount and gear legs, THANK YOU. I was able
to get them from Van's with shipping in a couple of days.
Cash Copeland
RV6 N46FC
Hayward, Ca
In a message dated 8/6/2003 6:36:46 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
khorto1537(at)rogers.com writes:
>
> Cash - great job on keeping your priorities straight and flying the
> airplane first.
>
> I'm interested in learning why the engine quit, if you ever figure it
> out. How much fuel was in the tank you switched to? How long since
> it had run on that tank? Were you sideslipping? Could the fuel
> pickup have rotated up a bit, so that it was away from the bottom of
> the tank (assuming you don't have a flop tube). Or, if you have a
> flop tube, could it have hung up?
>
> I'm just hoping to learn as much from your experience as I can, so I
> can avoid repeating it myself.
>
> Good luck getting the plane back in the air quickly.
> --
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: new builder purchasing tools |
> One last question, are the inexpensive drill presses and disk/belt sanders
> available from harbor freight adequate for homebuilt construction?
Absolutely. The only limitation that I've had with my HF drill press is
that the table is very shallow. I wasn't even able to use it to fly cut
instrument holes on the panel because of that (went with a punch instead and
man am I glad I did). But anyway, it's shallow, and it's short. But it
hasn't been a big deal.
I also have HF's bench grinder and their 12" 3-wheel variable speed band
saw...both have which have worked great. Too many other el cheapo doodads
I've got from HF to list, but those are the major ones, and I'm happy (good
prices, stuff works).
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: new builder purchasing tools |
Tool Rules for Cheap Guys.
1. Always wait to buy a tool until after you actually need it.
2. But first try to talk a friend into buying it and then borrow it from
him.
3. Put your name on any tools that you borrow.
4. Store all tools out of sight (especially ones you have recently put your
name on).
Albert Gardner
RV-9A N872RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Off Airport Landing |
In a message dated 8/7/03 10:21:40 AM Pacific Daylight Time, JusCash(at)aol.com
writes:
<< For those who offered me a motor mount and gear legs, THANK YOU. I was
able
to get them from Van's with shipping in a couple of days.
>>
Cash, I'm available just about anytime to give you a hand, and I'm sure I
could quickly round up some more hands if needed. Let me know.
Harry Crosby
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Off Airport Landing |
Thank you for posting an actual number for engine completly off decent,
with CS. I have wondered what the number would be. This helps me plan ahead
for distance I can travel with engine off. I think I will just round it up
1000 per minute for a cushion
Did you have a chance to go to corse pitch on the prop?
>
>Hi Kevin,
>I'm still not sure what happened. My calculations show that I should have
>had 3 gals in the original tank and 5 gals in the tank I switched to. I
>have a
>sneaking suspicion that I had carb ice. When I got the airplane to the
>airport it started right up.
>
>While attempting the restart I found it is really hard to fly the airplane
>with one hand on the starter switch and the other on the throttle. I really
>didn't have time to re-trim for the power off glide. Thats when I made the
>decision to fly the airplane to the ground. I have done power off landings
>but an
>engine out is a whole different ball game. With the constant speed prop and
>no engine power the airplane comes down like a rock. At best glide speed it
>was coming down at over 800fpm.
>For those who offered me a motor mount and gear legs, THANK YOU. I was able
>to get them from Van's with shipping in a couple of days.
>
>Cash Copeland
>RV6 N46FC
>Hayward, Ca
>
>In a message dated 8/6/2003 6:36:46 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
>khorto1537(at)rogers.com writes:
>
>>
>> Cash - great job on keeping your priorities straight and flying the
>> airplane first.
>>
>> I'm interested in learning why the engine quit, if you ever figure it
>> out. How much fuel was in the tank you switched to? How long since
>> it had run on that tank? Were you sideslipping? Could the fuel
>> pickup have rotated up a bit, so that it was away from the bottom of
>> the tank (assuming you don't have a flop tube). Or, if you have a
>
>> flop tube, could it have hung up?
>>
>> I'm just hoping to learn as much from your experience as I can, so I
>> can avoid repeating it myself.
>>
>> Good luck getting the plane back in the air quickly.
>> --
>> Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
>> Ottawa, Canada
>> http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mitch Faatz" <mitchfaatz(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Low fuel warning lights |
I'm making the same thing for my airplane, but I used sealed float switches.
I mounted them in the fuel tank access covers in case I ever wanted to
change the position of the switch (or remove them). I designed a little
circuit that does the same thing pretty much, except mine uses bi-color
LED's so it shows bright red when triggered, and then to cool yellow when
acknowledged by the pilot. It's also designed to latch so it doesn't
re-trigger or flash when the fuel goes up and down at the switch's trigger
point. Between digital fuel gauges, fuel flow computer, and these warning
lights, if I ever run out of fuel someone please give me an atomic wedgie.
Mitch Faatz RV-6A Finish Kit Fuel & Oil systems Auburn, CA
>From: "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Low fuel warning lights
>Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2003 09:45:35 -0700
>
>
>Does anyone have any comments on the low fuel warning system from
>aircraftextras.com? It uses optical sensors to determine the level of the
>fuel in the tanks and flashes a panel light when each tank gets down to a
>pre-set level.
>
>http://www.aircraftextras.com/
>
>Thanks,
>
>Terry
>RV-8A finish
>Seattle
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Pichon" <DeanPichon(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: edge rolling |
On my -4, I chose not to roll the edge you describe. Due to the curvature of the
leading edge, the inboard edge is quite stiff. This edge is further "reinforced"
by the doubler (for the tank attachment) and should not require rolling.
I would recommend focussing your efforts on attaining a good fit between the inboard
edge of the leading edge assembly and the outboard edge of the tank assembly.
Anything other than a narrow and uniform gap is quite noticeable.
Dean Pichon
RV-4, 150 hours
Morgantown, WV
----- Original Message -----
From: Wilder, Scott
Subject: RV-List: edge rolling
Hello, I'm about to rivet the leading edge assy on my -4, concerning
edge rolling to keep the edge from lifting after riveting, I know I can
roll or bend slightly the trailing edges of the skin but how about the
inboard edge? The one that will butt up to the tank skins. I am
hesitant to bend this edge for fear it will buckle elsewhere on the
edge, any suggestions would be appreciated.
Scott Wilder swilder(at)loweenterprises.com
925-383-9732 mobile
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: edge rolling |
>
> On my -4, I chose not to roll the edge you describe. Due to the curvature
of the leading edge, the inboard edge is quite stiff. This edge is further
"reinforced" by the doubler (for the tank attachment) and should not require
rolling. I would recommend focussing your efforts on attaining a good fit
between the inboard edge of the leading edge assembly and the outboard edge
of the tank assembly. Anything other than a narrow and uniform gap is quite
noticeable.
>
>
I agree 100%. I wouldn't mess with it. My -4 came out perfectly fine with
no rolling in this area. I think your chance of goofing it up is too high.
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
N722DW, RV-4 flying w/57 hours TT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Lundin <rlundin46(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | "Aluminum Overcast" EAA's B-17 |
EAA's "Aluminum Overcast" a B-17 Flying Fortress, will
be tying down at Republic Airport in Farmingdale, NY
from August 14th-19th. The plane will be open for
tours the 15th-17th at Farmingdales American Air
Power Museum. The visit is being hosted by the
American Air Power Museum and EAA chapter 528. You can
schedule a flight by calling 1-800-359-6217. For more
information visit the web site at: www.b17.org.
Hope to see you there.
Rick Lundin
__________________________________
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nick N" <rvator(at)nicknaf.com> |
| Subject: | Cell Phone Service-off topic |
I've had ATT for years with wonderful service, very few if any
complaints. Recently I upgraded to "mMode" the full GSM/GPRS digital
service. Very disappointing. The sound quality is outstanding, but I
simply can't connect to the older networks. I'm more than likely going
to downgrade back to a TDMA network so I get my coverage back.
Nick
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of aronsond
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cell Phone Service-off topic
My ATT supported cell phone worked well all the way out and all the way
back
from KOSH. started from VCB -FBR-RKS-KRWL-KBFF-FOD-OSH. It was roaming
but
service ability was not a problem.
Dave Aronson
N504RV (drove the citabria N2683Z)
----- Original Message -----
From: <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cell Phone Service-off topic
>
> I realize this is grossly off topic, but I've been using Sprint PCS as
my
> cell phone provider for the last year and a half and am looking to
change
> services soon because so many of the places I go on flying trips are
not
served by
> Sprint PCS. This last trip to OSH there was no Sprint service at the
following
> airport locales:
>
> Lewistown, MT
> Mitchell, SD
> Wendover, UT
> Casper, WY
> Mammoth, CA
>
> I'm looking to get input on which of the cell phone services you RV
guys
and
> gals have found satisfactory.
>
> I know that Verizon, at least, would have worked at Mitchell, but does
V
work
> at the other "off the beaten path" places.
>
> thx
>
> -GV (RV-6A N1GV 642hrs)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Off Airport Landing |
With the prop windmilling there was not enough oil pressure to hold the prop
in coarse pitch. It automatically went to fine pitch.
Cash
In a message dated 8/7/2003 10:57:06 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com writes:
> Thank you for posting an actual number for engine completly off decent,
> with CS. I have wondered what the number would be. This helps me plan ahead
> for distance I can travel with engine off. I think I will just round it up
> 1000 per minute for a cushion
>
> Did you have a chance to go to corse pitch on the prop?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Brown" <scottbrown(at)precisionjet.com> |
Listers,
A little more information on my parachute for sale. I have done some calling
around to the manufacturer (Butler Parachutes) and discovered that this
chute is an older model (Beta Model). The size and thickness of the backpack
is perfect for RV flyers. The backpack case is in good condition, however,
to be on the safe side, I feel that the canopy would have to be replaced.
Strong Enterprises can replace the canopy at a very reasonable price. I will
consider $500 OBO for this one. Please respond off-line.
Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RVator" <rv7a(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: new builder purchasing tools |
I've got them both and they seem to work OK. However, I have seen a similar
sander at Sears for just a bit more and wonder if it would work better.
Quieter, smoother, more powerful?
Jim Thorne
RV-7A QB
CHD
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: new builder purchasing tools
>
>
> > One last question, are the inexpensive drill presses and disk/belt
> sanders
> > available from harbor freight adequate for homebuilt construction?
> >
> > Thanks in advance for any replies.
> >
> > Steve
> >
> > Stephen J. Hughes
> > Aerospace Engineer
> > NASA LaRC
> > 1 North Dryden, MS 432
> > Hampton, VA 23681
> >
> > (757)864-7175 (voice)
> > (757)864-7879 (fax)
> > Stephen.J.Hughes(at)nasa.gov
> >
>
> Steve, I have a drill press and several of the "el cheapo" sanders as well
> as air drill, grinders, etc. from Harbor Freight. The drill press has
been
> abused for over 15 years (I have used it on occassion as a light milling
> machine) and still performs. The sanders all continue to operate fine
after
> more than 10 years. So considering the price, I think I more than got my
> money's worth. In fact the only machinery I've had fail was a more
> expensive DELTA table saw which I did not get from Harbor Freight. If I
had
> been forced to go "top of the line", I simply would not have been able to
> afford those tools.
>
> Ed Anderson
> RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> Matthews, NC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: new builder purchasing tools |
>
>I've got them both and they seem to work OK. However, I have seen a
>similar
>sander at Sears for just a bit more and wonder if it would work better.
>Quieter, smoother, more powerful?
>
>Jim Thorne
Jim,
I have a Craftsman combo disc/belt sander and it's worked perfectly for
about six years now. It has ground a lot of plexiglass, wood and fiberglass
and shows no signs of wear. I also bought an imported floor model drill
press from a traveling tool show that also does very well. I don't think
it's a Harbor freight model per se, but looks like it with the odd greenish
paint. For drill press accessories, a small milling vise (with x-y
adjustment) and centering jig for tubing are invaluable. I also used a fly
cutter to cut my panel. It's a wicked device if not used with care, but
does amazing work.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n6jx(at)earthlink.net |
| Subject: | Arizona Flying sights |
About three weeks ago, my wife and I took long weekend trip through Northern Arizona
that was simply spectacular. As we live in Tucson, this was pretty easy.
We began with a short 1.5 hour trip from Tucson to Chinle Arizona. This route took us over the Petrified Forest and the Painted Desert. Really wonderful landscapes. We landed in Chinle to spend the night and take the Jeep Tour of Canyon De Chelly, one of Arizona'a best Navajo sites. The Canyon is spectacular, with many cliff dwellings, and the tour is excellent, guided by a Navajo that actually was born and raised in the canyon. We stayed at the Thunderbird Lodge, which is right at the mouth of the Canyon, in the park and is run by the Navajo. You can read about them at http://www.tbirdlodge.com/
The lodge will send a van to pick you up at the airport and will drive you back
out in the morning. No fuel available, but nice new runway and tie downs.
The next morning we took off and flew through monument valley. Great formations
and scenery. We continued north up to Lake Powell and then flew west to Page
Arizona for Fuel and rest. Great airport with two nice FBOs. Lake Powell is
quite a sight from the air. Next leg of the trip was to fly three of the VFR
corridores over the Grand Canyon. You sort of fly in a "W" pattern over the
Canyon, and can still have great vistas. You need to fly at 10K5 or 11K5 feet
depending on your direction of flight, but given that the Canyon rim is at 8K,
those altitudes are not so high that you miss the vastness of the canyons.
However, it was a lot more fun many years ago when I actually could fly "in" the
canyon.
Anyway, three passes over the canyon puts you heading south and pointed approximately
towards Sedona. Sedona and the red rock cliffs are a "must see", and there
is a good little resturant and fuel up on the Mesa. A good place to take
a break. There is also a motel up on the Mesa as well as a place that rents
jeeps. However, it would also be a quick flight from their to Las Vegas, and
you could easily do all the above from Chinle to Las Vegas in a day in your RV.
The Pima Air Museam is really pretty far out of the way for your trip. It is in
Tucson, about 175 miles south of Sedona, and certainly not on your route of
flight.
Hope this helps, and if you need any details on routes, let me know.
Best Regards,
Mel Jordan RV-6A N6JX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Off Airport Landing |
Cash,
Sorry about your incident. Glad that you handled it so well with minimal
damage to your plane.
Like everyone else, I too am very interested in the reason for the
engine quitting. So, a couple of questions.
You mentioned carb ice as a possibility. Did you have carb heat on? If
you did, do you have the Van's carb heat muff?
Regards,
Richard Dudley
-6A dealing with lots of loose ends
JusCash(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Hi Kevin,
> I'm still not sure what happened. My calculations show that I should have
> had 3 gals in the original tank and 5 gals in the tank I switched to. I have
a
> sneaking suspicion that I had carb ice. When I got the airplane to the
> airport it started right up.
>
> While attempting the restart I found it is really hard to fly the airplane
> with one hand on the starter switch and the other on the throttle. I really
> didn't have time to re-trim for the power off glide. Thats when I made the
> decision to fly the airplane to the ground. I have done power off landings but
an
> engine out is a whole different ball game. With the constant speed prop and
> no engine power the airplane comes down like a rock. At best glide speed it
> was coming down at over 800fpm.
> For those who offered me a motor mount and gear legs, THANK YOU. I was able
> to get them from Van's with shipping in a couple of days.
>
> Cash Copeland
> RV6 N46FC
> Hayward, Ca
>
> In a message dated 8/6/2003 6:36:46 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> khorto1537(at)rogers.com writes:
>
> >
> > Cash - great job on keeping your priorities straight and flying the
> > airplane first.
> >
> > I'm interested in learning why the engine quit, if you ever figure it
> > out. How much fuel was in the tank you switched to? How long since
> > it had run on that tank? Were you sideslipping? Could the fuel
> > pickup have rotated up a bit, so that it was away from the bottom of
> > the tank (assuming you don't have a flop tube). Or, if you have a
>
> > flop tube, could it have hung up?
> >
> > I'm just hoping to learn as much from your experience as I can, so I
> > can avoid repeating it myself.
> >
> > Good luck getting the plane back in the air quickly.
> > --
> > Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
> > Ottawa, Canada
> > http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Off Airport Landing / switching tanks |
If the engine is running on a good tank with suffficient fuel prior to
takeoff or landing--don't screw with it! Leave the fuel selector where it is. Switch
tanks at a safe altitude.
Bill Mahoney
Sherman, CT
RV-6 N747W
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Off Airport Landing / switching tanks |
This is the reason I hated to post my problem to the list. I knew that the
second guessing would start. I did the best I could with what I had to work
with. I just thank God I am here to tell you about it. The final consensus is
carb ice.
Cash Copeland
>
> If the engine is running on a good tank with suffficient fuel prior to
> takeoff or landing--don't screw with it! Leave the fuel selector where it
> is. Switch
> tanks at a safe altitude.
>
> Bill Mahoney
> Sherman, CT
> RV-6 N747W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Re: new builder purchasing tools |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Engines
Brian: One more bit on the engines at Oshkosh that interested me and
perhaps others as well. In talking to the Mattituck rep about the XP360
Lycoming clone, I asked if they could put a counterweighted crank in their
engine. He said that they could but that since Lycoming is the only source
for cw cranks the cost of the engine would be significantly higher. He went
on to say that within a year, another source for cw cranks should be on line
and when it is, such savings as might be available will be passed on the the
buyer. He also seemed to say that they would build such an engine with
angle valve cylinders though I'm not sure we were communicating properly so
it may not be so. The crankshaft is of interest to me because I want 200hp
and no propeller operating restrictions and since I don't expect to be
indulging in severe maneuvering it should be ok.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick <bittybipe(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | RV's in Bakersfield, CA? |
Hi all, I'll be traveling to Bakersfield from Detroit next week and was wondering
if anyone with an RV was based in Bakersfield, CA? I'm working on an 8 myself.
Pat
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Off Airport Landing |
Yes, I have the stock heat muff on Van's FAB. On the decent for landing I
was at part throttle without carb heat. I have not flown a carbureted airplane
for many years so I was slow in getting the carb heat on when the engine
started running rough. I thought of everything but carb ice until it was to late.
On the ground the ground the engine started right up and ran fine. You can
bet on long part throttle decents the carb heat will be on. And I also plan to
install a carb temp gauge.
Cash Copeland
In a message dated 8/7/2003 5:22:57 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
rhdudley(at)att.net writes:
>
> Cash,
> Sorry about your incident. Glad that you handled it so well with minimal
> damage to your plane.
> Like everyone else, I too am very interested in the reason for the
> engine quitting. So, a couple of questions.
>
> You mentioned carb ice as a possibility. Did you have carb heat on? If
> you did, do you have the Van's carb heat muff?
>
> Regards,
>
> Richard Dudley
> -6A dealing with lots of loose ends
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Off Airport Landing |
Cash, glad all ended well, while bending an airplane is not good, coming
away unhurt from an off airport landing means it ended well.
Was wondering do you have an idea what OAT was at the time? which
exhaust do you have, cross-over or?
Jerry
JusCash(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>Yes, I have the stock heat muff on Van's FAB. On the decent for landing I
>was at part throttle without carb heat. I have not flown a carbureted airplane
>for many years so I was slow in getting the carb heat on when the engine
>started running rough. I thought of everything but carb ice until it was to late.
>On the ground the ground the engine started right up and ran fine. You can
>bet on long part throttle decents the carb heat will be on. And I also plan to
>install a carb temp gauge.
>
>Cash Copeland
>
>In a message dated 8/7/2003 5:22:57 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
>rhdudley(at)att.net writes:
>
>
>
>>
>>Cash,
>>Sorry about your incident. Glad that you handled it so well with minimal
>>damage to your plane.
>>Like everyone else, I too am very interested in the reason for the
>>engine quitting. So, a couple of questions.
>>
>>You mentioned carb ice as a possibility. Did you have carb heat on? If
>>you did, do you have the Van's carb heat muff?
>>
>>Regards,
>>
>>Richard Dudley
>>-6A dealing with lots of loose ends
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Off Airport Landing |
Vetterman crossover exhaust. It was about 90degs and real muggy when I got
on the ground.
Cash
In a message dated 8/7/2003 6:49:24 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net writes:
>
> Cash, glad all ended well, while bending an airplane is not good, coming
> away unhurt from an off airport landing means it ended well.
> Was wondering do you have an idea what OAT was at the time? which
> exhaust do you have, cross-over or?
>
> Jerry
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Pichon" <DeanPichon(at)msn.com> |
I built a BOM for my -4. It included most of the purchased parts not included with
Van's kit. I use it not for costing purposes but to maintain a comprehensive
database of parts, sources, serial numbers, etc. Since RV's are so unique,
I'm not sure how mine may be of use to anyone else. I can however recommend making
a BOM - it has proven very helpful. I use an inexpensive software package
for creating and maintaining BOMs called Parts&Vendors. If I can be of help,
just let me know.
Dean Pichon
RV-4
Morgantown, WV
----- Original Message -----
From: Eric Parlow
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 BOM
I'm working on an estimated costed Bill Of Material (BOM) for my RV-8A. It
will be used for getting quotes. I want to make it as complete as possible
down to lighting, paint, interior, etc. Can anyone suggest where I might
find one or more for reference?
ERic--
RV-8A
Asheville, NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6 tail kit for sale |
Fellow Listers:
I am forwarding this for a friend. Please contact him directly if you are
interested (located in the Minneapolis area)
Thanks
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
--------------------------------
I have an RV-6 tail kit for sale, complete with the thicker control skins so
easily converted to a RV-7. I made the mistake of buying a Mooney a couple
months after getting the kit....and five years and 1,000 hours of flying
later the Mooney is going strong the kit is just taking up space!
I'll part with it very reasonably. Very little done to it, so ready for
someone that wants the "full experience" of building one! How can I get
word out to the local group?
Will throw in a great set of jigs. Also have all the tools needed. We can
make it a package deal. Have a pneumatic squeezer, too.
Thanks for your help.
Loren
Loren(at)LorenDJones.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV3 <rv3(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Off Airport Landing |
Jerry Springer wrote:
>
>Cash, glad all ended well, while bending an airplane is not good, coming
>away unhurt from an off airport landing means it ended well.
>Was wondering do you have an idea what OAT was at the time? which
>exhaust do you have, cross-over or?
>
>Jerry
>
Since Lycoming PREHEATS the intake air through the oil sump, it is
exceedingly
rare that carb ice is ever the real culprit. Like one fella told me...
in 50 years of
flying Lycomings, only twice did he have any need for carb heat.
YMMV.
Continental engines are a whole 'nuther story.
I have never had need of carb heat in my Lycoming, yet. When the engine has
quit, it never was a carb ice problem. The last issue for me was
improper venting
of the fuel tank. Another time, switching tanks must have unported the
fuel pickup
while I was IFR on final The engine sputtered all the way to the
ground, but did
put out enough power to effect a safe landing, but it was scary. Never
again will
I be switching tanks on final approach.... IFR or otherwise.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Off Airport Landing |
This is certainly in the envelope where carb icing could occur.
See: http://www.ez.org/carb_ice.htm
Kevin Horton
>
>Vetterman crossover exhaust. It was about 90degs and real muggy when I got
>on the ground.
>
>Cash
>
>In a message dated 8/7/2003 6:49:24 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
>jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net writes:
>
>>
>> Cash, glad all ended well, while bending an airplane is not good, coming
>> away unhurt from an off airport landing means it ended well.
>> Was wondering do you have an idea what OAT was at the time? which
>> exhaust do you have, cross-over or?
>>
>> Jerry
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Off Airport Landing / switching tanks |
Cash,
Please don't take anybodies questions or comments personally.
Everyone is just trying to learn as much as possible from your event.
And if they think they see a lesson, they may want to point it out
for everyone else to learn from.
I am very grateful that you posted your experience to the list. We
need to be able to learn from the problems that happen to other
folks, as we won't live long if we can only learn from our own
misfortunes. If one person uses carb heat because of your experience
and avoids an off-airport landing your post here was worth it.
Kevin Horton
>
>This is the reason I hated to post my problem to the list. I knew that the
>second guessing would start. I did the best I could with what I had to work
>with. I just thank God I am here to tell you about it. The final
>consensus is
>carb ice.
>
>Cash Copeland
>
>>
>> If the engine is running on a good tank with suffficient fuel prior to
>> takeoff or landing--don't screw with it! Leave the fuel selector where it
>> is. Switch
>> tanks at a safe altitude.
>>
>> Bill Mahoney
>> Sherman, CT
> > RV-6 N747W
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Off Airport Landing |
> Since Lycoming PREHEATS the intake air through the oil sump, it is
> exceedingly
> rare that carb ice is ever the real culprit.
The first thing the air sees is the carb, how can it be preheated by the
oil sump? Carb ice means ice in the throat of the carb, right? And
this screws up the whole fuel metering system. I thought the mechanism
is: Air expanded by the throttle cools, and then add to that the large
heat of vaporization of the fuel. Throw in some moisture from the air,
and ice forms on the cold parts.
Did I miss something in airplane 101?
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 334 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:RV's in Bakersfield |
There are more RV's in Bakersfield than probably anywhere else on earth!
The EAA chapter has a large hanhar on Bakersfield Muni Airport, on South
Union Ave.
John Harmon,originator of the Harmon Rocket is at :
http://hr2pilot@aol.com/
I don't have others at hand.
Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
Charleston, Arkansas
"Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | flexible brake lines |
I am considering using flexible brake lines from the caliper to the aluminum line.
I have found brake lines that have a banjo fitting that would attach to the
caliper.
Anyone have experience with this setup? Trying to determine if there is any problems
with this arrangement.
Thanks,
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
RV6 N296JC res
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Cantrell" <kcflyrv(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Off Airport Landing |
Listers...
Being that we all are sharing possible scenarios here...
What about the possibility of a relatively low fuel quantity in the tank and
a nose low descent. With our fuel pick-ups in the rear of the tank, has
anyone figured out the difference in useable fuel with a nose low attitude
versus a climb or normal cruise attitude. I think we all wonder how we would
handle an emergency like this but when (if) it happens to me, I just hope
I'm as skillful as Cash was to walk away from it.
Ken Cantrell
Lodi Ca. RV6, 206 hrs
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Springer" <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Off Airport Landing
>
> Cash, glad all ended well, while bending an airplane is not good, coming
> away unhurt from an off airport landing means it ended well.
> Was wondering do you have an idea what OAT was at the time? which
> exhaust do you have, cross-over or?
>
> Jerry
>
>
> JusCash(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> >
> >Yes, I have the stock heat muff on Van's FAB. On the decent for landing
I
> >was at part throttle without carb heat. I have not flown a carbureted
airplane
> >for many years so I was slow in getting the carb heat on when the engine
> >started running rough. I thought of everything but carb ice until it was
to late.
> >On the ground the ground the engine started right up and ran fine. You
can
> >bet on long part throttle decents the carb heat will be on. And I also
plan to
> >install a carb temp gauge.
> >
> >Cash Copeland
> >
> >In a message dated 8/7/2003 5:22:57 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> >rhdudley(at)att.net writes:
> >
> >
> >
> >>
> >>Cash,
> >>Sorry about your incident. Glad that you handled it so well with minimal
> >>damage to your plane.
> >>Like everyone else, I too am very interested in the reason for the
> >>engine quitting. So, a couple of questions.
> >>
> >>You mentioned carb ice as a possibility. Did you have carb heat on? If
> >>you did, do you have the Van's carb heat muff?
> >>
> >>Regards,
> >>
> >>Richard Dudley
> >>-6A dealing with lots of loose ends
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken" <ken(at)soundsuckers.com> |
Looking to build my second plane and would like a 9-A that has been
started or has turned into a back burner project for someone. I will
consider plane in any stage of construction, but would like complete
package less engine and instruments. And on the west coast.
Call or e-mail off list
ken(at)soundsuckers.com
541-947-2602
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roger Embree <rembree(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: flexible brake lines |
I am also interested in a flexible line setup. A fellow builder just
completed a 6a and was doing some high speed taxi testing. With heavy
braking he experienced the groaning and vibration reported here before.
The next day in the hangar, he noticed brake fluid on the floor beneath
this section of aluminum tubing. It had cracked on the inside of the bend.
The caliper is held in place by pins that allow it to float freely
sideways. When the break pads are not tight against the rotor the
caliper can be moved around quite a bit and is restricted in movement
partly by the aluminum break line. So, any movement of the caliper is
tranfered directly to the brake line. Bending metals causes them to
strain harden which is not what you want for something that could be
exposed to severe vibrations. I am interested in where you got your
fittings etc, (pictures?).
Roger Embree
RV4 C-GIRH 140 hrs
Jerry Calvert wrote:
>I am considering using flexible brake lines from the caliper to the aluminum line.
I have found brake lines that have a banjo fitting that would attach to
the caliper.
>
>Anyone have experience with this setup? Trying to determine if there is any problems
with this arrangement.
>
>Thanks,
>Jerry Calvert
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Brown" <scottbrown(at)precisionjet.com> |
| Subject: | More Cleaning out of hangar |
Listers,
I have cleaned out more of the hangar, and have found more items that I will
not be using. I have the following:
- One pair of Sam James Wheel Pants...fits all RVs and
Rockets............$75 ea
- One pair of Harmon Rocket Fuel Tank Skins....21 gals per side...fits HR2,
RV4, RV6.......$75 ea
- One pair of Full Leading edge Fuel Tank Skins....Fits RV-4 and
RV-6........$150 ea
- One parachute....very thin backpack...great for RVs......$500 OBO
Please repond offline at scottbrown(at)precisionjet.com
Cheers!
Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Off Airport Landing / switching tanks |
I was thinking the same thing, why switch from a known good fuel source to
a unknown, for lack of a better term. Then I thought about it, On a steep
decent with 3~5 gallons in the tank all that fuel could flow forward and
then you would be sucking air. Wonder if this is what happened? What would
be really interesting is to put say 5 gallons in the tank and then lift the
tail which would equal 10? degrees nose down and see if you can still pull
fuel.
>
>If the engine is running on a good tank with suffficient fuel prior to
>takeoff or landing--don't screw with it! Leave the fuel selector where it
>is. Switch
>tanks at a safe altitude.
>
>Bill Mahoney
>Sherman, CT
>RV-6 N747W
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <panamared2(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Off Airport Landing |
What about the possibility of a relatively low fuel quantity in the tank and
a nose low descent. With our fuel pick-ups in the rear of the tank, has
anyone figured out the difference in useable fuel with a nose low attitude
versus a climb or normal cruise attitude.
Yes, this can happen. I have experienced engine sputtering with as much as
seven gallons in a nose low decent, especially if I am slipping and the
tank I am using is the low wing tank (this maneuver will unport the fuel
pickup and is common in other types of aicraft also). I have a fuel
injected system so I know it is "not carb ice", when the engine starts
running rough I immediately switch tanks, this always solves the problem.
Rules of thumb that I fly by:
1. I am always high on final, most of the time still at traffic pattern
altitude. With engine idle, full flaps and a slip, you can get a really
good sink rate ie. 1200-1500 fpm (if you really need it). I try and
maintain 80 kts.
2. I plan to land by using the fuel tank that will be in the higher wing,
ie when on a left hand traffic pattern, the right fuel tank is in the high
wing.
3. My favorite thing to do in my RV is practice engine outs at various
places in the traffic pattern. While in the pattern at pattern altitude, I
feel very confident that I can make a safe landing on the runway no matter
where the engine quits.
Caveat, my rules work for me and my aircraft, if these rules of thumb
bother you disregard.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Off Airport Landing |
In a message dated 08/08/2003 12:00:03 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net writes:
> Bob I think where the confusion comes from is that with the carb
> attached to the oil sump on a Lycoming there is some heat transfer to
> the carb
> which helps retard carb ice.
>
> Jerry
>
Touch your carb some time when you have the engine uncowled just after
flight, as in oil-change time: mine gets too hot to leave your finger on for more
than a half-second. I was amazed the fuel in the carb float bowl didn't boil.
Not sure what effect the induction airflow of a running engine and cooling air
through the cowling in flight has on these temperature conditions, but agree
the carb gets a LOT of heat from the sump in a Lycoming. This always struck
me as very inefficient design, likened to operating with the carb heat on all
the time...
-Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David E. Nelson" <david.nelson(at)pobox.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Off Airport Landing / switching tanks |
Hi All,
I'm just a student at this time (getting my x-country solos in - almost
there!), but this has been a concern of mine in the back of my head....and now
I read this.
In the Jepperson book it talks about what causes carb ice to form and how to
alleviate it. In particular, throttling back causes a high pressure
differential in the carb and a drastic temp drop - throw in vaporizing fuel and
humidity and you've got a bad recipe for disaster.
I'm being taught to perform GUMPCS and turning carb heat off to be followed by
throttleing back and decending through base and final.
If you ask me, carb heat should be applied during GUMPCS but the POH and
instructor say no. The POH says not to use CH due to possible detonation on
full power. I think I'd rather have some detonation than no power at all and
crash. Besides, I can either turn off CH or throttle back a little and get rid
of the detonation - correct? Those two alternatives are quicker responding
than letting the ice melt.
Cash, sorry to hear about your experience but glad you survived.
/\/elson
On Thu, 7 Aug 2003 JusCash(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> This is the reason I hated to post my problem to the list. I knew that the
> second guessing would start. I did the best I could with what I had to work
> with. I just thank God I am here to tell you about it. The final consensus
is
> carb ice.
>
> Cash Copeland
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Off Airport Landing / switching tanks |
In a message dated 08/08/2003 9:22:12 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com writes:
> On a steep
> decent with 3~5 gallons in the tank all that fuel could flow forward and
> then you would be sucking air. Wonder if this is what happened? What would
> be really interesting is to put say 5 gallons in the tank and then lift the
> tail which would equal 10? degrees nose down and see if you can still pull
> fuel.
>
Okay, but I don't make any descents on final that way. I try to get the
plane slowed down to the back side of the power curve (1.3 x Vso), so it's more
like 10 degrees nose UP for a steep descent, and if it needs to be steeper
still, just pull the stick back more...
-Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gilalex(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: flexible brake lines |
Roger and Jerry
... why not just use -3 size Teflon braided flexible hose line
from the top of the gear leg all the way down to the caliper?? This
eliminates the need for a tube to hose fitting down by the caliper. No
need for bajo fittings, just use AN type fittings
The hoses can be bought pre-made here at a reasonable cost...
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pdfs/066.pdf
For fittings in -3 size, see...
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pdfs/072.pdf
Other RVs have been built this way..... many builders also use these hoses
as the link from the pilot's side brake actuators to the firewall - much
less bulky than the kit supplied hoses.
gil in Tucson
>
>I am also interested in a flexible line setup. A fellow builder just
>completed a 6a and was doing some high speed taxi testing. With heavy
>braking he experienced the groaning and vibration reported here before.
>The next day in the hangar, he noticed brake fluid on the floor beneath
>this section of aluminum tubing. It had cracked on the inside of the bend.
>
>The caliper is held in place by pins that allow it to float freely
>sideways. When the break pads are not tight against the rotor the
>caliper can be moved around quite a bit and is restricted in movement
>partly by the aluminum break line. So, any movement of the caliper is
>tranfered directly to the brake line. Bending metals causes them to
>strain harden which is not what you want for something that could be
>exposed to severe vibrations. I am interested in where you got your
>fittings etc, (pictures?).
>
>Roger Embree
>RV4 C-GIRH 140 hrs
>
>Jerry Calvert wrote:
>
> >I am considering using flexible brake lines from the caliper to the
> aluminum line. I have found brake lines that have a banjo fitting that
> would attach to the caliper.
> >
> >Anyone have experience with this setup? Trying to determine if there is
> any problems with this arrangement.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Jerry Calvert
> >
>
>
RV-6A, #20701 .. fitting out firewall...
77 Tiger N28478 at 57AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
"Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com"
| Subject: | Ritchie M2 electronic compasses ... any interest???? |
GlacierSeveral of us have used the Ritchie M2 electronic compass in our
custom/homebuilt/experimental planes and they seem to work just fine.
The sensor is remote from the display and as soon as you turn it on, it
locks on to the correct heading.
The reason for this message is that a few people asked about how to get one
and I have found that Ritchie has put the program on the "back burner" (I
guess due to lack of interest from boaters) and are therefore not making
them at this time. There are many places that have them for $200+.
BUT ... I have found about 10 or so of these units and if there is interest,
I can purchase the entire lot. The price would be somewhere in the $100-$150
range, **definitely** less than $200.
Any interest??
If so, email me "off-list" with contact info. (james(at)nextupventures.com) .
James
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steven Eberhart <newtech(at)newtech.com> |
| Subject: | Oshkosh RV-6 accident |
Has anyone heard what they did with Van's red demonstrator RV-6 that was
involved in the runway accident at Oshkosh? Just curious if they are
going to replace the wing in the workshop at Pioneer field. Possibly
borrow a wing from the EAA young eagles RV-6 so they could ferry it home?
Steve Eberhart
RV-7A - working on wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: flexible brake lines |
Quite correct - flexing tubing beyond a certain amount will eventually
weaken it and cause a break.
However the RV plans (most any model) show a generous loop of aluminium
tubing around the axle before the AN-8XX which connects it to the wheel
caliper. The idea is that the 1/16" or so in/out movement in the brake
caliper will be spread over this 6"-8" length of tubing and keep the amount
of flexing quite small - below the fatigue limit of the material.
Too small a loop and/or damage such as a nick in the tube are more likely
the cause of a break in this area. The alternatives such as using some other
material or adding a short section of flex hose for the caliper joint are
likely to add weight, cost, and complexity and offer more leak
opportunities.
I would venture that the large majority of RVs flying use 1/4 aluminium tube
down to the caliper and are trouble free in this area.
Jim Oke
RV-6A C-GKGZ
RV-3 C-FIZM
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Embree" <rembree(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: flexible brake lines
>
> I am also interested in a flexible line setup. A fellow builder just
> completed a 6a and was doing some high speed taxi testing. With heavy
> braking he experienced the groaning and vibration reported here before.
> The next day in the hangar, he noticed brake fluid on the floor beneath
> this section of aluminum tubing. It had cracked on the inside of the bend.
>
> The caliper is held in place by pins that allow it to float freely
> sideways. When the break pads are not tight against the rotor the
> caliper can be moved around quite a bit and is restricted in movement
> partly by the aluminum break line. So, any movement of the caliper is
> tranfered directly to the brake line. Bending metals causes them to
> strain harden which is not what you want for something that could be
> exposed to severe vibrations. I am interested in where you got your
> fittings etc, (pictures?).
>
> Roger Embree
> RV4 C-GIRH 140 hrs
>
> Jerry Calvert wrote:
>
> >I am considering using flexible brake lines from the caliper to the
aluminum line. I have found brake lines that have a banjo fitting that
would attach to the caliper.
> >
> >Anyone have experience with this setup? Trying to determine if there is
any problems with this arrangement.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Jerry Calvert
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WPAerial(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: flexible brake lines |
Call Tom Geen at Van's. He has a few stories about the problems using
flexible lines
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh RV-6 accident |
>
>Has anyone heard what they did with Van's red demonstrator RV-6 that was
>involved in the runway accident at Oshkosh? Just curious if they are
>going to replace the wing in the workshop at Pioneer field. Possibly
>borrow a wing from the EAA young eagles RV-6 so they could ferry it home?
>
>Steve Eberhart
>RV-7A - working on wings
It's probably back in Oregon by now. I talked to Rob Butt at Van's on
Tuesday and he helped pull the wings off at Osh and put it on a truck. The
wing spar was one of the early hand drilled type so any wing replacement
will be all new and drilled in place. At that time they weren't sure what
they were going to do with the plane, i.e. repair or salvage. The Lance
was totaled.
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
13B in gestation mode
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Off Airport Landing / switching tanks |
Not knocking your approaches its just thats not the way I was taught by
Mike S. We came in high, engine at idle and full flaps, put the numbers
just over the spinner and kept them there. This makes for a very steep
decent and thinking about it could really cause a problem if you cut it too
close on the fuel and only have a few gallons in one tank left.
>
>In a message dated 08/08/2003 9:22:12 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
>bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com writes:
>
>
>> On a steep
>> decent with 3~5 gallons in the tank all that fuel could flow forward and
>> then you would be sucking air. Wonder if this is what happened? What would
>> be really interesting is to put say 5 gallons in the tank and then lift the
>> tail which would equal 10? degrees nose down and see if you can still pull
>> fuel.
>>
>
>Okay, but I don't make any descents on final that way. I try to get the
>plane slowed down to the back side of the power curve (1.3 x Vso), so it's
>more
>like 10 degrees nose UP for a steep descent, and if it needs to be steeper
>still, just pull the stick back more...
>
>-Bill B
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh RV-6 accident |
When I talked with Mike, he indicated they were going to drive the 6
back to Van's place. they were looking at a new wing, motor mount and
engine stuff.
That was till.... somebody in a great haste to make pictures of the
broken 6 drove over Mike's >>up to then unharmed cowling<<, removed to
look at the motor mount....
Things people do to get pictures of accident scenes, even if it involves
friends. Just wondering what was so bleeding important to get those
pictures to cause Mike more damage.
Gert
Michael McGee wrote:
>
>
>>
>>Has anyone heard what they did with Van's red demonstrator RV-6 that was
>>involved in the runway accident at Oshkosh? Just curious if they are
>>going to replace the wing in the workshop at Pioneer field. Possibly
>>borrow a wing from the EAA young eagles RV-6 so they could ferry it home?
>>
>>Steve Eberhart
>>RV-7A - working on wings
>>
>
> It's probably back in Oregon by now. I talked to Rob Butt at Van's on
> Tuesday and he helped pull the wings off at Osh and put it on a truck. The
> wing spar was one of the early hand drilled type so any wing replacement
> will be all new and drilled in place. At that time they weren't sure what
> they were going to do with the plane, i.e. repair or salvage. The Lance
> was totaled.
>
> Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
> 13B in gestation mode
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: flexible brake lines |
I put flexible lines everywhere in my RV-6A. No problems in the first 100
hours that I flew it. A new owner has it now, and to my knowledge he hasn't
had any problems either. My RV-10 will also have flexible brake lines.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Embree" <rembree(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: flexible brake lines
>
> I am also interested in a flexible line setup. A fellow builder just
> completed a 6a and was doing some high speed taxi testing. With heavy
> braking he experienced the groaning and vibration reported here before.
> The next day in the hangar, he noticed brake fluid on the floor beneath
> this section of aluminum tubing. It had cracked on the inside of the bend.
>
> The caliper is held in place by pins that allow it to float freely
> sideways. When the break pads are not tight against the rotor the
> caliper can be moved around quite a bit and is restricted in movement
> partly by the aluminum break line. So, any movement of the caliper is
> tranfered directly to the brake line. Bending metals causes them to
> strain harden which is not what you want for something that could be
> exposed to severe vibrations. I am interested in where you got your
> fittings etc, (pictures?).
>
> Roger Embree
> RV4 C-GIRH 140 hrs
>
> Jerry Calvert wrote:
>
> >I am considering using flexible brake lines from the caliper to the
aluminum line. I have found brake lines that have a banjo fitting that
would attach to the caliper.
> >
> >Anyone have experience with this setup? Trying to determine if there is
any problems with this arrangement.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Jerry Calvert
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: flexible brake lines |
When the wheelpants departed the airplane, during my off airport landing, it
also ripped the aluminum mount from the brake to axle attachment. It did not
damage the aluminum brake line. My line is clamped to the front of the gear
leg with a loop around the leg then into the caliper. I wouldn't be to
concerned about cold working the tube as there is very little movement.
Cash Copeland
In a message dated 8/8/2003 8:58:44 AM Pacific Daylight Time, wjoke(at)shaw.ca
writes:
>
> Quite correct - flexing tubing beyond a certain amount will eventually
> weaken it and cause a break.
>
> However the RV plans (most any model) show a generous loop of aluminium
> tubing around the axle before the AN-8XX which connects it to the wheel
> caliper. The idea is that the 1/16" or so in/out movement in the brake
> caliper will be spread over this 6"-8" length of tubing and keep the amount
> of flexing quite small - below the fatigue limit of the material.
>
> Too small a loop and/or damage such as a nick in the tube are more likely
> the cause of a break in this area. The alternatives such as using some other
> material or adding a short section of flex hose for the caliper joint are
> likely to add weight, cost, and complexity and offer more leak
> opportunities.
>
> I would venture that the large majority of RVs flying use 1/4 aluminium tube
> down to the caliper and are trouble free in this area.
>
> Jim Oke
> RV-6A C-GKGZ
> RV-3 C-FIZM
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Engine Crankcase Breather |
Has anyone out there using Aircraft Spruce's homebuilder's air/oil separator
on an O-360 had any problems because of the smaller breather hose (5/8 I.D.)
it is made for vs the 3/4 I.D. breather hose that the factory engines are set
up for?
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, firewall forward
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Weyant" <cweyant(at)chuckdirect.com> |
| Subject: | 4" Alternator Pulley |
Anyone know what happened to Josh who made the 4 inch alternator pulleys for the
Nindenso Alternator? Or better yet, how to get hold of one. Spruce doesn't
carry them anymore and I think I'd like one to slow down the alternator speed.
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Perry" <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Off Airport Landing |
>Since Lycoming PREHEATS the intake air through the oil sump, it is
>exceedingly
>rare that carb ice is ever the real culprit. Like one fella told me...
>in 50 years of
>flying Lycomings, only twice did he have any need for carb heat.
>
whoa! This is a new take on where carb ice forms.....I thought it formed at
the venturi in the carb long before the mixture passes through the tubes in
the oil sump. Doesn't it collect right about where the ice probe is
attached?
I also thought Lycomings were especially prone to carb ice because of 4
large cylinders sucking large volumes of air in short-fast cycles.
Please explain....
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 N154PK Flies great!
>From: RV3 <rv3(at)comcast.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Off Airport Landing
>Date: Thu, 07 Aug 2003 21:31:42 -0500
>
>
>Jerry Springer wrote:
>
> >
> >Cash, glad all ended well, while bending an airplane is not good, coming
> >away unhurt from an off airport landing means it ended well.
> >Was wondering do you have an idea what OAT was at the time? which
> >exhaust do you have, cross-over or?
> >
> >Jerry
> >
>Since Lycoming PREHEATS the intake air through the oil sump, it is
>exceedingly
>rare that carb ice is ever the real culprit. Like one fella told me...
>in 50 years of
>flying Lycomings, only twice did he have any need for carb heat.
>
>YMMV.
>
>Continental engines are a whole 'nuther story.
>
>I have never had need of carb heat in my Lycoming, yet. When the engine has
>quit, it never was a carb ice problem. The last issue for me was
>improper venting
>of the fuel tank. Another time, switching tanks must have unported the
>fuel pickup
>while I was IFR on final The engine sputtered all the way to the
>ground, but did
>put out enough power to effect a safe landing, but it was scary. Never
>again will
>I be switching tanks on final approach.... IFR or otherwise.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tracy Crook" <lors01(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Off Airport Landing / switching tanks |
This switching tanks issue is why I *love* the fuel system on my -4. Engine
always draws fuel from the left tank. When I want to even the load I turn
on a Facit transfer pump which fills the left from the right. No fuel
selector valve. If I'm low on fuel I dump it all in the left tank. Very
comforting to know that I'll crash with no usable fuel : -) and totally
eliminates the "do I risk engine sputter now or later" conundrum.
Tracy Crook
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Bilinski" <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Off Airport Landing / switching tanks
<bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
> I was thinking the same thing, why switch from a known good fuel source to
> a unknown, for lack of a better term. Then I thought about it, On a steep
> decent with 3~5 gallons in the tank all that fuel could flow forward and
> then you would be sucking air. Wonder if this is what happened? What would
> be really interesting is to put say 5 gallons in the tank and then lift
the
> tail which would equal 10? degrees nose down and see if you can still pull
> fuel.
>
> Scott Bilinski
> >
> >If the engine is running on a good tank with suffficient fuel prior to
> >takeoff or landing--don't screw with it! Leave the fuel selector where it
> >is. Switch
> >tanks at a safe altitude.
> >
> >Bill Mahoney
> >Sherman, CT
> >RV-6 N747W
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott" <scott(at)hecenter.com> |
| Subject: | First Flight N757X RV-7A |
At approximately 3 PM, RV-7A, N757X made its maiden flight of about .7 hrs
at Martin State Airport in Baltimore, MD. No surprises...a tad left wing
heavy. Now I can breathe again!
At this point I would be totally remiss if I were not to thank the people
that made this flight possible. Jack Fromm(an RV-8 Builder), who has the
most hands-on helping with the plane and who spent an enourmous amount of
hours these last weeks getting me through inspection and first flight.
Mitch(Chip) Lock(flying RV-7) who by far and away has the most time in
answering my stupid questions and who helped get my wing spars aligned when
they were off from the Phillipines. And last but by no means least Mike
Slate, friend and business partner who is responsible for all the stuff you
really see...windshield fairing, canopy fit, cowl fit, wheel pants...not to
mention getting the plane painted for me... Guys, I cannot thank you enough
!!!
Scott Rosenberger
N757X FLYING !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Off Airport Landing |
* RV-List message posted by: JusCash(at)aol.com
With the prop windmilling there was not enough oil pressure to hold the prop
in coarse pitch. It automatically went to fine pitch.
Cash
This part troubles me. Somewhere I was lead to believe that there WOULD be
enough oil pressure to keep the prop in coarse pitch. Was it a Hartzell?
Would another constant speed prop behave any differently? Congratulations
on having and using the skill to get it on the ground safely.
Terry
RV-8A Hung the Aerosport IO-360 B1B last night
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:4" Alternator Pulley |
Mark Landoll has them. Ph: 405-393-3847.
He does the Harmonic Dampeners for Lyc. engines ( Mine works great ) and is
in the Sport Aviation classified adds under "Propellers".
Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
Charleston, Arkansas
"Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Low fuel level indicator |
Latly there has been some discussion about a low fuel level indicator.
With a sender already in the tanks (capacitor or resistor), it seemes to me
there is no need for much more.
In fact, take a look at the following :
http://www.stores.yahoo.com/nisongerautomarine/monitoring-instruments-redline-warning-series--electrical-.html
(make sure you have it all in one line).
Amit,
7 FWF/Finishing.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ritchie M2 electronic compasses ... any interest???? |
The Ritchie M2, which is discontinued, has a white on blue face. I got one
of the last ones out there, for $99.77 (sale price) from West Marine. if you
call them they can try and locate a unit in a store close to you.
Call 1-800-boating (262 8464) and ask for part number 239320.
If you want a black and white face (either black on white or white on black)
and are willing to pay $100 more (US$195) look it up on:
http://www.stores.yahoo.com/nisongerautomarine/compasses.html
The size is slightly different than a regular aviation 2.25".
Amit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mitch Faatz" <mitchfaatz(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Low fuel level indicator |
But that will start flashing on, off, on, off for the 20 minutes that the
fuel level is around the trigger point of the switch. The dampening they
mention won't help much. But yes, it's a very cheap solution if you don't
mind all the flashing.
Mitch Faatz RV-6A Finish Kit Auburn, CA
>Latly there has been some discussion about a low fuel level indicator.
>With a sender already in the tanks (capacitor or resistor), it seemes to me
>there is no need for much more.
>
>In fact, take a look at the following :
>
>http://www.stores.yahoo.com/nisongerautomarine/monitoring-instruments-redline-warning-series--electrical-.html
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: flexible brake lines |
Earl's has -3 brake hoses with AN fitting on one end and banjo fitting on
the other. There is a 1/8"NPT bolt to attach it to the caliper. Earl's
fittings can also be used for your fuel and oil lines.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
RV6 N296JC res
You have to order the catalog at :
http://my.coredcs.com/~wmeng/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Embree" <rembree(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: flexible brake lines
>
> I am also interested in a flexible line setup. A fellow builder just
> completed a 6a and was doing some high speed taxi testing. With heavy
> braking he experienced the groaning and vibration reported here before.
> The next day in the hangar, he noticed brake fluid on the floor beneath
> this section of aluminum tubing. It had cracked on the inside of the bend.
>
> The caliper is held in place by pins that allow it to float freely
> sideways. When the break pads are not tight against the rotor the
> caliper can be moved around quite a bit and is restricted in movement
> partly by the aluminum break line. So, any movement of the caliper is
> tranfered directly to the brake line. Bending metals causes them to
> strain harden which is not what you want for something that could be
> exposed to severe vibrations. I am interested in where you got your
> fittings etc, (pictures?).
>
> Roger Embree
> RV4 C-GIRH 140 hrs
>
> Jerry Calvert wrote:
>
> >I am considering using flexible brake lines from the caliper to the
aluminum line. I have found brake lines that have a banjo fitting that
would attach to the caliper.
> >
> >Anyone have experience with this setup? Trying to determine if there is
any problems with this arrangement.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Jerry Calvert
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Velvick <tomvelvick(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | EZ Pilot Digital Autopilot |
I have been beta testing the EZ Pilot digital autopilot from Trio Avionics
(<http://www.trioavionics.com>www.trioavionics.com). It replaces the Navaid
AP gyro with a new digital head that has a lot more capabilities (if you
dont already have a Navaid, they will also include a servo). It
understands the NMEA sentence format from handheld GPSs as well as the
aviation format sentence from panel mount GPSs. This means you can get rid
of your smart coupler to connect a handheld gps. Since the EZ Pilot reads
the complete sentence output from the GPS it knows exactly where it is in
relation to the waypoints, not just the cross track error like the Navaid
uses. This allows it to fly the flight plan and anticipate each waypoint
as well as to fly intercepts and course reversals. The AP also has a two
line digital display that shows several parameters at one time such as ETE,
GPS groundspeed, Distance to Waypoint, ETC. In actual practice, my EZ
Pilot AP is now working excellent and handles turbulence better than the
Navaid does. Its also nice to look at the display and see your course
compared to the bearing to the waypoint and the distance in hundredth of a
mile you are off the centerline. It is normally flying within 0 to 50 feet
of the centerline. An additional digital gyro module is being developed as
an option for enhanced turbulence control. There are other features that I
haven't talked about. So if you are in the market for a digital autopilot
or want to upgrade your Navaid, here's another option.
Regards,
Tom Velvick
N53KT RV-4
N188KJ RV-6a wiring.
d
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight N757X RV-7A |
Scott,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (190 hrs)
>From: "Scott" <scott(at)hecenter.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: , ,
>
>Subject: RV-List: First Flight N757X RV-7A
>Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2003 17:29:34 -0400
>
>
>At approximately 3 PM, RV-7A, N757X made its maiden flight of about .7 hrs
>at Martin State Airport in Baltimore, MD. No surprises...a tad left wing
>heavy. Now I can breathe again!
>
>At this point I would be totally remiss if I were not to thank the people
>that made this flight possible. Jack Fromm(an RV-8 Builder), who has the
>most hands-on helping with the plane and who spent an enourmous amount of
>hours these last weeks getting me through inspection and first flight.
>Mitch(Chip) Lock(flying RV-7) who by far and away has the most time in
>answering my stupid questions and who helped get my wing spars aligned when
>they were off from the Phillipines. And last but by no means least Mike
>Slate, friend and business partner who is responsible for all the stuff you
>really see...windshield fairing, canopy fit, cowl fit, wheel pants...not to
>mention getting the plane painted for me... Guys, I cannot thank you enough
>!!!
>
>Scott Rosenberger
>N757X FLYING !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | eregensburg <eregensburg(at)triad.rr.com> |
| Subject: | RV6A - 2 partners wanted |
Attention RV builders in NC . Here's agreat way to build RV time while still
building YOUR plane. N925RV is my fully IFR RV6A. We are based in North
Carolina. The plane is kept at BUY - Burlington NC . I am buying a Cessna
210 (need room for a few people with golf clubs)and am willing to sell 2 -
1/3shares in N925RV with the agreement to buy the shares back once you
finish building your plane. Details & costs to be discussed and agreed to in
person. If interested let me know. (Respond direct/off list)
Ed Regensburg
eregensburg(at)triad.rr.com
336-275-3009
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Empennage/Aileron builders--STOP |
..until you read this!
Control surfaces that use the AEX wedge and double flush trailing edge
rivets --7, 8, 9 rudders and 9 elevators and ailerons.
The article that Jim Cone put on the RV-Lists photo share on July 29th is
worth its weight in gold..or at least its weight in tail feather skins! If
you are going to do your rudder or elevators this weekend DON'T UNTIL YOU
READ JIM'S CONE'S ARTICLE!
I just finished one of my elevator trailing edges for the -9A this
afternoon and you almost can't tell which is the shop head and which is the
manufactured head on the rivets! I'll post some pictures later tonight,
IT'S REALLY THAT GOOD. There is a dark cloud to this silver lining..now
I'm going to have to buy new rudder skins so my TAIL FEATHERS WILL MATCH.
It was posted in a photo share last week. Here is a copy:
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Jim Cone
RV-List,RV3-List,RV4-List,RV6-List,RV7-List,RV8-List,RV9-List,RV10-List
Subject: Nice Straight Edge...
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/jimnbev@olypen.com.07.29.2003/index.html
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
13B in gestation mode
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ritchie M2 electronic compasses ... any interest???? |
Amit is correct. [Thanks AMit for the additonal info.]
I want to be ABSOLUTELY CLEAR ... Ritchie stopped making the units.
Also, I am testing the need here ONLY because I was asked if I wanted to by
a dozen when I called to see what was the deal. I already have mine mounted
and over 180 hours on it. I also already have a spare.
Since a few people asked about them (including at OSH) I figured I would
test the waters so I did not end up making a purchase of something I did not
need and nobody else did either.
Anyone who has expressed an interest and would prefer the units listed
below, PLEASE let me know. I will in NO WAY be offended as I am just trying
to help out.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Amit Dagan
> Sent: Friday, August 08, 2003 5:50 PM
> To: rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Re: Ritchie M2 electronic compasses ... any
> interest????
>
>
> The Ritchie M2, which is discontinued, has a white on blue face.
> I got one
> of the last ones out there, for $99.77 (sale price) from West
> Marine. if you
> call them they can try and locate a unit in a store close to you.
> Call 1-800-boating (262 8464) and ask for part number 239320.
>
> If you want a black and white face (either black on white or
> white on black)
> and are willing to pay $100 more (US$195) look it up on:
> http://www.stores.yahoo.com/nisongerautomarine/compasses.html
>
> The size is slightly different than a regular aviation 2.25".
>
> Amit.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | need dimensions for 3ATI panel cutout |
Does anyone know where I can find a dimensioned drawing of the proper panel
cutout for a 3-ATI instrument (as used on items such as a Sandel HSI - a
square cutout with the corners cut at 45 degrees). No luck with an archive
search or with a google search.
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
http://my.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Crankcase Breather |
In a message dated 8/8/2003 11:52:44 AM Pacific Daylight Time, HCRV6(at)aol.com
writes:
> Has anyone out there using Aircraft Spruce's homebuilder's air/oil
> separator
> on an O-360 had any problems because of the smaller breather hose (5/8 I.D.)
>
> it is made for vs the 3/4 I.D. breather hose that the factory engines are
> set
> up for?
>
Harry-
Mine is the 5/8" and I converted the fitting on the engine to an AN one
that's also 5/8" to match, but if you want the 3/4" one that's otherwise identical
you can get it from Wicks. Don't know why ACS doesn't carry them.
FYI, the breather port on the big 6 cylinder Continentals is also 5/8".
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 642hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | RESULTS-Empennage/Aileron builders--STOP |
Here's a quick and dirty page to show the results of using Jim Cone's
trailing edge rivet method. It's just the left elevator so it's a short
section. I'm going to do the right elevator probably on Saturday using
this method and I'll post the continuing results.
http://home.teleport.com/~dianas-rv9a/ConLogE/ConLogE_trailingedge.html
Mike
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
13B in gestation mode
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd Houg <thoug(at)attglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Empennage/Aileron builders--STOP |
Micheal,
That technique works great! I discovered that technique about 2 1/2 years ago when
I was building my -9 rudder. I'm not sure if Jim picked it up from my page
or thought it up himself - brilliant minds think alike you know! (Now isn't that
arrogant! ;o) ) I recently borrowed my modified set to another -9 builder
to do the same. You can use it for the flaps and ailerons(on a -9) also because
they use the same AEX wedge with the same angle.
There's more details on my website at www.toddhoug.com - select "Squeezing double flush rivets" from the menu window on the left.
Good Luck,
Todd Houg
90196 - slow slow build
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael McGee
Subject: RV-List: Empennage/Aileron builders--STOP
.until you read this!
Control surfaces that use the AEX wedge and double flush trailing edge
rivets --7, 8, 9 rudders and 9 elevators and ailerons.
The article that Jim Cone put on the RV-Lists photo share on July 29th is
worth its weight in gold..or at least its weight in tail feather skins! If
you are going to do your rudder or elevators this weekend DON'T UNTIL YOU
READ JIM'S CONE'S ARTICLE!
I just finished one of my elevator trailing edges for the -9A this
afternoon and you almost can't tell which is the shop head and which is the
manufactured head on the rivets! I'll post some pictures later tonight,
IT'S REALLY THAT GOOD. There is a dark cloud to this silver lining..now
I'm going to have to buy new rudder skins so my TAIL FEATHERS WILL MATCH.
It was posted in a photo share last week. Here is a copy:
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Jim Cone
RV-List,RV3-List,RV4-List,RV6-List,RV7-List,RV8-List,RV9-List,RV10-List
Subject: Nice Straight Edge...
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/jimnbev@olypen.com.07.29.2003/index.html
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
13B in gestation mode
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard V. Reynolds" <rvreynolds(at)macs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: need dimensions for 3ATI panel cutout |
The Sandel Installation manual has the cut out dimensions. You should be able
to down load it from their site. Be aware that the Sandel 3308 has some "lumps
and bumps" on the top and bottom that need to be considered when arraigning
your vertical spacing.
Contact off line me if you can use a .dxf file.
Richard Reynolds, RV-6A
C J Heitman wrote:
>
> Does anyone know where I can find a dimensioned drawing of the proper panel
> cutout for a 3-ATI instrument (as used on items such as a Sandel HSI - a
> square cutout with the corners cut at 45 degrees). No luck with an archive
> search or with a google search.
>
> Chris Heitman
> Dousman WI
> RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
> http://my.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
>
> ---
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Weyant" <cweyant(at)chuckdirect.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RESULTS-Empennage/Aileron builders--STOP |
Don't know what the problem is with doing it Van's way. Follow directions
and it comes out great. Two Nines on the field and they look great. Keep it
simple.
Chuck
Wiring the 'Nine
>
> Here's a quick and dirty page to show the results of using Jim Cone's
> trailing edge rivet method. It's just the left elevator so it's a short
> section. I'm going to do the right elevator probably on Saturday using
> this method and I'll post the continuing results.
>
> http://home.teleport.com/~dianas-rv9a/ConLogE/ConLogE_trailingedge.html
>
> Mike
>
> Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
> 13B in gestation mode
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Empennage/Aileron builders--STOP |
AH-HA! the trail gets longer. Yes, I even had your web page book-marked
and had missed double flush entry (too many book-marks). This is so easy
to do I'm going to show it to Van's on Monday to get their opinion. My
opinion is this belongs in the builder's manual and Avery/Cleveland/et al
can make some dough selling angle squeezer dies.
Mike
>
>Micheal,
>
>That technique works great! I discovered that technique about 2 1/2 years
>ago when I was building my -9 rudder. I'm not sure if Jim picked it up
>from my page or thought it up himself - brilliant minds think alike you
>know! (Now isn't that arrogant! ;o) ) I recently borrowed my modified set
>to another -9 builder to do the same. You can use it for the flaps and
>ailerons(on a -9) also because they use the same AEX wedge with the same angle.
>
>There's more details on my website at www.toddhoug.com - select "Squeezing
>double flush rivets" from the menu window on the left.
>
>Good Luck,
> Todd Houg
> 90196 - slow slow build
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Michael McGee
>Sent: Friday, August 08, 2003 9:30 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Empennage/Aileron builders--STOP
>
>
>.until you read this!
>Control surfaces that use the AEX wedge and double flush trailing edge
>rivets --7, 8, 9 rudders and 9 elevators and ailerons.
>
>The article that Jim Cone put on the RV-Lists photo share on July 29th is
>worth its weight in gold..or at least its weight in tail feather skins! If
>you are going to do your rudder or elevators this weekend DON'T UNTIL YOU
>READ JIM'S CONE'S ARTICLE!
>
>I just finished one of my elevator trailing edges for the -9A this
>afternoon and you almost can't tell which is the shop head and which is the
>manufactured head on the rivets! I'll post some pictures later tonight,
>IT'S REALLY THAT GOOD. There is a dark cloud to this silver lining..now
>I'm going to have to buy new rudder skins so my TAIL FEATHERS WILL MATCH.
>
>It was posted in a photo share last week. Here is a copy:
>
>A new Email List Photo Share is available:
>
> Poster: Jim Cone
>
>RV-List,RV3-List,RV4-List,RV6-List,RV7-List,RV8-List,RV9-List,RV10-List
>
> Subject: Nice Straight Edge...
>
>http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/jimnbev@olypen.com.07.29.2003/index.html
>
>
>Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
>13B in gestation mode
>
>
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>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Shemp" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Off Airport Landing / switching tanks |
Isnt the whole point of doing these steep approaches to give you enough
altitude to make the runway should the engine quit? So in the rare
situation that the engine runs rough (or even quits)due to fuel starvation,
it shouldnt matter.
Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, finish kit
Chicago/Louisville
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | RESULTS-Empennage/Aileron builders--STOP |
Sorry but I have to agree here. If you are careful & patient, you can end
up with a good edge. I did the T/E of my rudder with NO proseal, and it's
riveted the "old fashioned" way, and with a 6' straight edge on it, I can't
see any waves anywhere. The rivets came out as good as any squeezed ones,
and I think it looks nearly perfect. I'll put it up against the squeezed
ones any day. Took about 8hrs total to build the rudder. Anyway, I'm not
bragging, just want to make sure that those who don't have an air squeezer
won't get too afraid, because it can be done and many have done it
successfully, and it doesn't take an earth moving miracle to get it right
(couldn't if I did it)!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6-N664SB/130 Hrs.
RV6-N64YU (with a -7 tail) finishing.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Chuck Weyant
Subject: Re: RV-List: RESULTS-Empennage/Aileron builders--STOP
Don't know what the problem is with doing it Van's way. Follow directions
and it comes out great. Two Nines on the field and they look great. Keep it
simple.
Chuck
Wiring the 'Nine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Brooks" <kenbrooks(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Panel Layout -- IFR requirements? |
-listers,
Amen to this!
". . .All the regulations and anecdotes should be carefully combed for
useful, simple-ideas that help us evolve. 99% of what we KNOW about the
certified experience is of no value in this regard except to acknowledge
that they're not doing it right. Let us concentrate on deducing what
makes us look like really good pilots because our airplanes are free of
disappointments. Bob (Nuckolls). . ."
Now. . .I want to be able to fly my RV-8 legal IFR (no, I don't intend
to fly in bad weather, just be able to file, etc.) I've already been
through the "paper charts" thing, and yes, I'll have them in the cockpit
and they'll be up to date. We've designed the Dual Alt/Dual Batt system
around Bob's same in Aeroelectric Connection. We're using The EFIS-One
with EFIS-Lite backup on different busses. We have the Apollo SL-30
Nav/Com with CDI indicator. We have the Microair 760 VHF radio for
backup on a separate bus. We also have a back seat repeater display for
the EFIS-One (wife insisted). We can put the display power on a
different bus than the front display also. The part where we differ in
interpretation of the FARs is that some say you must have a wet compass.
As I read the reg, it just says "magnetic heading indicator" and the
solid state magnetometers with the EFIS-One/EFIS-Lite are just that, so
if someone can show me why/how I must have a wet compass, I'll change my
interpretation, but until then, the two (separate magnetometers) fit the
bill nicely. Of course I will also have the Microair transponder with
encoder with a lovely cable set made by Bob. By the way, with the
EFIS-One/EFIS-Lite, we'll have two electronic skid/slip indicators and
two independent turn coordinators with automatic standard rate turn
indicators. Have I forgotten anything else I need for legal IFR?
Thanks in advance.
Ken Brooks
RV-8QB in progress
N1903P reserved
How fortunate for governments that the people do not think -- Adolf
Hitler
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | RESULTS-Empennage/Aileron builders--STOP |
Didn't use an air squeezer it's a hand unit from Avery.
>
>Sorry but I have to agree here. If you are careful & patient, you can end
>up with a good edge. I did the T/E of my rudder with NO proseal, and it's
>riveted the "old fashioned" way, and with a 6' straight edge on it, I can't
>see any waves anywhere. The rivets came out as good as any squeezed ones,
>and I think it looks nearly perfect. I'll put it up against the squeezed
>ones any day. Took about 8hrs total to build the rudder. Anyway, I'm not
>bragging, just want to make sure that those who don't have an air squeezer
>won't get too afraid, because it can be done and many have done it
>successfully, and it doesn't take an earth moving miracle to get it right
>(couldn't if I did it)!
>
>Cheers,
>Stein Bruch
>RV6-N664SB/130 Hrs.
>RV6-N64YU (with a -7 tail) finishing.
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Chuck Weyant
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: RESULTS-Empennage/Aileron builders--STOP
>
>
>Don't know what the problem is with doing it Van's way. Follow directions
>and it comes out great. Two Nines on the field and they look great. Keep it
>simple.
>Chuck
>Wiring the 'Nine
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kosta Lewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Low fuel level indicator |
I personally would not need a light to tell me what I already would be
well aware of. I am constantly monitoring my fuel status, switching
tanks every 30 minutes and plan my fuel stops with a good reserve,
partly because I have about a 2-2.5 hour butt. Even without a fuel flow
meter, my estimates of how much fuel I will take on at my stops is
always very close. I guess a redundant system, the light, is OK, but not
really necessary if you are paying attention to your fuel consumption.
If you are cutting fuel quantity/reserve close enough you need a fuel
light to tell you so, perhaps a change in flying technique/flight
planning should also be considered.
IMHO only.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | grommet question |
On my IO-360, I had to replace the hose that runs up from the fuel injection
controller to the spider. The new hose is thinner than the old hose, so the
grommet I was using in the lower baffling (AN931-12-17 or MS35489-20) is too
big (ID is too big, that is). The old hose was 3/4" (thus -12), but the new
hose is 9/16". They don't make an AN931-9-17 that I can find.
I'm just curious if there's a simple solution for this, like wrapping
something around the hose where it passes through the grommet in order to
build the OD up to 3/4", or whether it's just a matter of getting out the
high-temp silicone and filling the gap with it (seems really cheesy to do
that).
Does anybody know of a rubber grommet with:
- ID = 9/16" or 5/8"
- hole size = 1" or 1 1/16"
I guess I could replace that lower baffling (and drill a smaller grommet
hole in the new one) as a last resort, but I'd like to avoid that if
possible.
Thanks in advance,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Evenson" <revenson(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner? |
For cleaning aluminum, does it make any difference which solvent one uses?
Roger.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca> |
| Subject: | EZ Pilot Digital Autopilot |
Subject: RV-List: EZ Pilot Digital Autopilot
I have been beta testing the EZ Pilot digital autopilot from Trio Avionics
(<http://www.trioavionics.com>www.trioavionics.com). It replaces the Navaid
AP gyro with a new digital head that has a lot more capabilities (if you
dont already have a Navaid, they will also include a servo).
Hi Tom
Had a quick look at their web site and it looks like the one (essential to
me) thing it cannot do is provide turn & bank info.
George McNutt
Langley B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Low fuel level indicator |
Michael,
I suppose we all learn more from our own experiences than we do from what
other people tell us, and I'm pleased to know that you are constantly aware
of just how much fuel you have left, no matter what else is going on in the
cockpit. I have always been perhaps overly conservative about having enough
fuel, but there was one incident in my low time but many year flying history
where circumstances outside the cockpit put me in a seriously low fuel
situation and a low fuel warning light gave me a reliable benchmark as to
just how much trouble I was in. "flying technique/flight planning" had
nothing to do with it.
So let me ask again: Has anyone had any experience with the optical low
fuel warning system from aircraftextras.com?
Terry
RV-8A #80729
Finishing
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kosta Lewis
Subject: RE: RV-List: Low fuel level indicator
I personally would not need a light to tell me what I already would be
well aware of. I am constantly monitoring my fuel status, switching
tanks every 30 minutes and plan my fuel stops with a good reserve,
partly because I have about a 2-2.5 hour butt. Even without a fuel flow
meter, my estimates of how much fuel I will take on at my stops is
always very close. I guess a redundant system, the light, is OK, but not
really necessary if you are paying attention to your fuel consumption.
If you are cutting fuel quantity/reserve close enough you need a fuel
light to tell you so, perhaps a change in flying technique/flight
planning should also be considered.
IMHO only.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner? |
Roger:
For what it is worth, I have used Coleman lantern fluid for parts cleanup
prior to priming throughout my project with very good results. A bit
cheaper too.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
fuselage (waiting for finish kit)
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Evenson" <revenson(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner?
>
> For cleaning aluminum, does it make any difference which solvent one uses?
> Roger.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6HES(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Help KMA-20 Radio |
Listers: searching for a pin out diagram for a King KMA-20 audio panel. Any
help appreciated.
Harvey Sigmon RV-6AQB flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
For those on the waiting list at Dynon. I am number 351 and my unit shipped
Thursday.
Regards,
Don Mei
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BillDube(at)killacycle.com" <BillDube(at)killacycle.com> |
| Subject: | LED position lights in the wingtip |
I unwrapped a wingtip, trimmed the plexiglass to fit, slipped the LED
position light in place and took a picture. Pretty nifty looking if I do
say so myself. :-) Put the picture up on the web page:
http://www.killacycle.com/Lights.htm
I also posted the assembly manual for the lights at:
http://www.killacycle.com/Instructions.htm
Looking forward,
Bill Dube'
Bill Dube'
2244 Grape Street
Denver, Colorado
80207
(303) 329-9158 (evening)
(303) 497-3933 (day)
(303) 859-1592 (cellular)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com> |
I am fitting my cowl (RV-8A) and I noticed that the distance between
the top of the number 2 cylinder and the cowl top is much less than
the number one cylinder and the cowl, is this normal? The distance
on the left side is a little over the width of my index finger.
How do I leave a gap of 1/2" between the cowl and the top of the
baffle?
If I rotate the cowl counter clockwise (looking aft) I can get a
little more space over No. 2 BUT, the distance measured from the shop
floor to the cowl inlet is an inch higher on the left side compared
to the right. It appears that this would leave the running uphill
from left to right (looking aft). I originally set the cowl up by
measuring from the shop floor to the same location on each inlet. I
adjusted the cowl to get the same dimension on each inlet so that
they would be perfectly horizontal.
I was planning on leaving the top of the cowl flush with the spinner
to allow for some settling. The drawing calls for the cowl to be
1/8" higher than the spinner; I could do that but what happens when
the engine settles? Further, raising the cowl 1/8" really doesn't
help the spacing over No. 2 much.
There is a little more space between the engine and the side of the
cowl on the right than the left also. I have been told that the
motor mount is offset a little to account for asymmetrical thrust so
I suppose that explains the lateral spacing difference.
I don't want to run into problems down the road when I start trimming
the baffles so I am holding off drilling the cowl until someone can
help me resolve this issue.
ANY HELP OUT THERE???? PLEASE!
Vince Welch
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Lightspeed ignition model opinions? |
Gonna break down and buy a Lightspeed, especially now that I'm starting to
show signs of a bad mag. (I have no idea which one)
I know this has been discussed ad-nauseum, but I want to get some current
opinions on the various Lightspeed models. Please comment if you are flying
with a lightspeed, particularly if your installation is recent.
a few things:
1] Regarding sensor type; other than installation ease; is there any benefit
between the direct crank sensor vs. the in-the-mag-hole sensor?
(performance, accuracy, maintenance needs, etc???)
Is mounting the flywheel type sensor particularly problematic or is it as
simple as drilling a hole and sticking in the magnet? (How does the magnet
fasten in the hole?)
Any other installation or set-up surprises? (other than having to go find a
T for the MP line?) Does it work well right out of the box, or is it going
to take a lot of cowl pulling and adjustments?
2] For those with the 2-Plus or 3 versions that come with an assortment of
cockpit monitoring guages: I already have a tach and MP, so the extra $150
is just for the spark advance display. Is this really a useful piece of
information or is it just another flashing light that you never really look
at.
And also, I guess the standard model includes a switch that replaces the
key. Any comments about that?
3] I've heard performance improvement claims as much as 8 hp, particularly
at high altitudes which is where I fly. Can anyone testify to this? Such a
big jump may mean that the next $1000 surprise will be needing a new higher
pitch prop.
Thanks,
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Walker" <ron(at)walker.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon Shipped |
What seems to be the typical wait time on this unit anyway? I'm curious.
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Dynon Shipped
>
> For those on the waiting list at Dynon. I am number 351 and my unit
shipped
> Thursday.
>
> Regards,
>
> Don Mei
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon Shipped |
Ron:
I was told 12 weeks when I ordered mine at Oshkosh.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
fuselage (waiting for finish kit)
Dynon order 423
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Walker" <ron(at)walker.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon Shipped
>
> What seems to be the typical wait time on this unit anyway? I'm curious.
>
> Ron
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Dynon Shipped
>
>
> >
> > For those on the waiting list at Dynon. I am number 351 and my unit
> shipped
> > Thursday.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Don Mei
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon Shipped |
The wait time is probably a moving target. From what I can tell from
monitoring e-mail lists, #40 shipped in late March, #269 shipped on
July 9th, and now we have #351 shipped on August 7th. That's an
average of about 20 shipped per week in the last month. They
supposedly are trying to ramp up to 30 per week.
I ordered mine on about June 24th, and my number is 367. They told
me to expect it to ship in September, but at the rate they are going
it could ship around the end of August. That would make about a nine
week lead time for me. But I'm betting they took a lot of orders at
OSH, so the backlog may have increased.
Kevin Horton
>
>What seems to be the typical wait time on this unit anyway? I'm curious.
>
>Ron
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com>
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Dynon Shipped
>
>
>>
>> For those on the waiting list at Dynon. I am number 351 and my unit
>shipped
>> Thursday.
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> Don Mei
> >
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BPattonsoa(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Lightspeed ignition model opinions? |
Been flying the mag replacement version, simple without all the adds for
about 100 hr. I wired a switch into my panel for an electronic system with the
original construction. I labeled it "spare" for the FAA so they gave me the
minimum certified engine hours to fly off. Had a keyed ignition switch with two
mag positions, so one of the positions became non functional. Installation
took about 6 hours, including mounting the box inside the cabin on standoffs.
I
lost the throw of the dice and had to reverse the wires otherwise the system
worked right from the second start and was timed just right. Setting the
"mag" was far too simple.
Noticed a 2-3 knot increase in 2300 rpm cruise and some drop in fuel flow.
Leaning became much more sensitive. (I have noticed that you can get a false
lean at very low EGTs at high altitudes. Before I figured out that my mag
wires were reversed from initial construction (me), I thought that the rpm drop
when switching the mag off was 0. After doing a mea cupa on that, I get 10-20
rpm drop with the mag off (VMS instrument system), and the usual 120-160
turning off the ignition system.
Highly recommend.
Bruce Patton
-6A flying (a lot)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Off Airport Landing |
Cash, I like Kevin have to give you top marks for posting your incident to the
list. These are the kind of posts that lead to a genuine safety related discussion.
I would like to add some observations and practices that I have used in
the twelve years I have been flying my RV 6.
You mentioned that you thought it may have been carb ice. When I built the 6 I
had some concerns about the low output of the rather small heat muff for a dedicated
source of carb heat. I did a series of tests on carb icing and the following
was the results. Engine was a carb equipped 0360 swinging a Hartzell CS.
and a cross over exhaust system. No ice could be generated except under the most
severe conditions and then it was slow to accumulate and was easily handled
by the use of the alternate air source. Because the carb is bolted directly
to the engine sump and receives a lot of heat transfer plus a tremendous amount
of heat is generated in this area by the cross-over exhausts I am convinced
that the combination of the two make this Lycoming installation the most carb
ice resistant I have flown with.
Aircraft with the carb mounted separately creates a entirely different situation.
I use the manifold pressure gauge for my carb ice indicator, if ice starts to accumulate
the manifold pressure will start to drop and immediately apply carb
heat (alternate air) then under these conditions just leave it on. If conditions
warrant it select heat when starting decent and leave it on.
As for fuel management the rules I have established are as follows, I never take-off
with less than half tanks and never land with less than 1 1/2 hours fuel
on board and never switch tanks below 1000 ft. This was after riding with a
friend in a fuel injected installation,he blew a tank and it used up the best
part of a thousand feet to get things going again.
I am now running with fuel injection and in the tests I have done there is no fuel
pressure drop with or without the boost pump while switching. I fly 1/2 hour
out of each side and the switch is done with boost pump on, switch while monitoring
the fuel pressure to make sure there is no drop then boost pump of. I
have never had it happen on the RV but if the fuel pressure dropped even a pound
of two I would immediately go back to the other tank and find out what the
problem was.
Still use my old airforce check list (GUMP) for the arrivals and it is still keeping
me out of trouble.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Empennage/Aileron builders--STOP |
That's some nice work and documentation!
I used a slightly different method, it may even be the one mentioned in the
planes (can't quite remember) but I thought I'd share it anyway... 8-)
We clecoed every hole on the rudder. We used the 2x rivet gun and the back
rivet plate for this process.
Next we inserted a rivet in the middle of the trailing edge and set it only
enough to get it started, just one or two taps. We then partially set the
next rivet going out to the fifth hole from the first rivet we set (starting
from the middle and working our way out towards both of the ends and the
same time). So do one skip to the fifth, then the fifth one down on the
other side. Go back and forth from the middle until both ends are reached.
This is only a partially set rivet remember.
Next we did the same thing starting from the middle rivet with every third
rivet to both ends. We alternated on each side so we reached both ends
evenly (we didn't go from the middle rivet to one end and then the middle
rivet to the other end). Again this is with a partially set rivet.
The same process was used to set the remaining rivets (which would now be
every-other rivet, in line). Again this is only partially set.
Once all of the rivets were partially set we repeated the process by doing a
final set of the rivet. Starting in the middle and going every fifth rivet
in both directions, then every third rivet, then the final remaining (every
other) rivet.
The end result was a beautiful smooth straight line that looked great on
either side (couldn't tell the machined from the shop head) and no use of
pro-seal was needed to keep everything in place.
Bob Hassel
RV9A
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Michael McGee
Subject: RE: RV-List: Empennage/Aileron builders--STOP
AH-HA! the trail gets longer. Yes, I even had your web page book-marked
and had missed double flush entry (too many book-marks). This is so easy
to do I'm going to show it to Van's on Monday to get their opinion. My
opinion is this belongs in the builder's manual and Avery/Cleveland/et al
can make some dough selling angle squeezer dies.
Mike
>
>Micheal,
>
>That technique works great! I discovered that technique about 2 1/2 years
>ago when I was building my -9 rudder. I'm not sure if Jim picked it up
>from my page or thought it up himself - brilliant minds think alike you
>know! (Now isn't that arrogant! ;o) ) I recently borrowed my modified set
>to another -9 builder to do the same. You can use it for the flaps and
>ailerons(on a -9) also because they use the same AEX wedge with the same
angle.
>
>There's more details on my website at www.toddhoug.com - select "Squeezing
>double flush rivets" from the menu window on the left.
>
>Good Luck,
> Todd Houg
> 90196 - slow slow build
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Michael McGee
>Sent: Friday, August 08, 2003 9:30 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Empennage/Aileron builders--STOP
>
>
>.until you read this!
>Control surfaces that use the AEX wedge and double flush trailing edge
>rivets --7, 8, 9 rudders and 9 elevators and ailerons.
>
>The article that Jim Cone put on the RV-Lists photo share on July 29th is
>worth its weight in gold..or at least its weight in tail feather skins! If
>you are going to do your rudder or elevators this weekend DON'T UNTIL YOU
>READ JIM'S CONE'S ARTICLE!
>
>I just finished one of my elevator trailing edges for the -9A this
>afternoon and you almost can't tell which is the shop head and which is the
>manufactured head on the rivets! I'll post some pictures later tonight,
>IT'S REALLY THAT GOOD. There is a dark cloud to this silver lining..now
>I'm going to have to buy new rudder skins so my TAIL FEATHERS WILL MATCH.
>
>It was posted in a photo share last week. Here is a copy:
>
>A new Email List Photo Share is available:
>
> Poster: Jim Cone
>
>RV-List,RV3-List,RV4-List,RV6-List,RV7-List,RV8-List,RV9-List,RV10-List
>
> Subject: Nice Straight Edge...
>
>http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/jimnbev@olypen.com.07.29.2003/index.htm
l
>
>
>Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
>13B in gestation mode
>
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>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh RV-6 accident |
It is my understanding that they boxed it up and drove it back home.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steven Eberhart" <newtech(at)newtech.com>
Subject: RV-List: Oshkosh RV-6 accident
>
> Has anyone heard what they did with Van's red demonstrator RV-6 that was
> involved in the runway accident at Oshkosh? Just curious if they are
> going to replace the wing in the workshop at Pioneer field. Possibly
> borrow a wing from the EAA young eagles RV-6 so they could ferry it home?
>
> Steve Eberhart
> RV-7A - working on wings
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <tim(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Where to buy - Govenor oil line |
Hi listers,
Need to know where to buy a govenor oil line for an 0-360. Was at vans
yesterday and they do not carry them.
Tim
RV-6 N616TB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Where to buy - Govenor oil line |
Aerosport sells them, I think. http://www.aerosportpower.com/
I bought some flex hose and ends and made it myself. Tested it at the
local FBO. It wasn't difficult.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
2003 - The year of flight!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <tim(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Re: cowling/skin joint...leave room for paint? |
Dan,
I had a discussion with my painter about this not too long ago. I was told
to leave room for the paint. Doesn't have to be much but maybe about 1/8th.
You or your painter might have a different idea.
Tim Bryan
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <tim(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Coax Connector Frustration |
Hi Bob,
I understood mine to be crimp on but solder might work.
I think I will try it today and see what the results are. Whats one more
connector parts without a center pin anyway. Anybody want to buy some?
-------Original Message-------
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Saturday, August 16, 2003 09:01:50 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Coax Connector Frustration
I thought the center pin soldered onto the center conductor?
Maybe yours are different. I use RG-58U/ with solid center conductor.
Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
Charleston, Arkansas
"Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers"
.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Coax Connector Frustration |
In a message dated 8/17/2003 9:55:28 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
tim(at)bryantechnology.com writes:
> Do you have a way to measure the crimped diameter of the small die on the
> crimper? I am beginning to wonder if my tool is defective. Would it make
> sense if my coax center conductor (it is stranded and almost doesn't fit)
> was
> soooo tight in the pin that crimping could produce a defect?
>
> I would be happy to pay shipping if it comes to that. Seems like I spent
> enough money to have an appropriate tool. I live in Redmond, Oregon. Where
> are you?
Tim-
We're in The San Francisco Bay area. The M22520/2-01 crimping tool is fully
adjustable.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 642hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Parachute for sale... |
Strong Parachute, Model 304, seat pack. Navy blue with gray.
Ordered brand new at SnF '02. Used for the first few hours of flight
testing my RV-8. In perfect condition. Just repack and fly!
$1200 takes it & I'll ship within the lower 48.
Ken Balch
RV-8 N118KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Re: cowling/skin joint...leave room for paint? |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: RV-List: cowling/skin joint...leave room for paint?
>
> I'm working on sanding the aft edge of my top cowling, and I've got it
about
> as good as I can get it. Zero gap all along the joint (no hinges
> visible...woohoo). But before I drill this sucker to the hinge, I figure
I
> should ask -- should I leave a tiiiiiny gap to account for the thickness
of
> primer and paint, or should I let it butt up against the fwd edge of the
top
> skin?
There is another reason you might want to increase the clearance a bit; it
eases the hinge pin installation considerably. I agree that 1/8" is not
necessary but 1/16" will be surprisingly tight when painted.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gilalex(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Voltage regulator connector |
Hi guys,
what have the rest of you done with the connector on Vans
Adjustable Voltage Regulator? It's a fairly bulky 3 pin automotive flat
moulded connector. (Vans ES M5-150A ADJ VOLTAGE REGULATOR )
I could:
1. cut it off, and just splice in aircraft wire
or
2. retain the connector to make the Voltage Regulator easy to change.
Option 2 would be good if it ever needed replacing, but I don't know the
reliability of this unit. It is solid state, but does operate under the
cowling in a high temp. environment (mine is on the firewall with a RV-7/9
battery location).
Has anyone had to replace these unit? Any other comments on their
reliability?
...thanks for any info .. gil in Tucson
RV-6A, #20701 .. fitting out firewall...
77 Tiger N28478 at 57AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duane Bentley" <dbentley(at)fuse.net> |
| Subject: | Oil cooler Port Interference |
I've checked the archives and it appears other builders have had the
same problem I'm describing below. But the archives aren't clear on how
to address it.
The recommended port from the engine to the oil cooler is the one
between the two mags. So I removed the oil filter, installed the
straight #8 nipple, attached the hose from it to the oil cooler, and
tried to reinstall the oil filter. It won't fit! The lip of the filter
(new as received with the new 0-360 A1A engine) interferes with the hose
fitting.
I have a straight "Earl's" fitting on the end of the hose. Is it that
much larger diameter than all others?
I took the straight nipple off the engine and started threading in a
nipple with a 45 degree bend. It appears that the only way it will work
is it I point it down and to the left side, but then the hose runs into
the C/S prop governor bracket. I hate to remove and modify it also.
Surely some of the rest of your RV6 guys who are flying must have worked
around this before.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
Duane Bentley
West Chester, OH
RV6 Finishing.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Mcmahon <rv6(at)earthlink.net> |
Well after 10 years ,now have first Eng start Weeeeeeee..
It's a bart Eng ..0/360 A1A C/S LSE right side VM-1000
This old man be happy!!
John McMahon (RV-6 )
Gallatin,Tn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com> |
"VansAirForce" ,
"RV8ListVANS"
| Subject: | vacuum system routing |
Does anybody have some pictures or explanation on how best to route the vacuum
lines from the firewall aft to the back of the panel on an RV8.Through the baggage
area or under it or what?
Thanks
Al Grajek
RV8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Oil cooler Port Interference |
In a message dated 8/17/2003 5:01:39 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
dbentley(at)fuse.net writes:
> I've checked the archives and it appears other builders have had the
> same problem I'm describing below. But the archives aren't clear on how
> to address it.
>
>
> The recommended port from the engine to the oil cooler is the one
> between the two mags. So I removed the oil filter, installed the
> straight #8 nipple, attached the hose from it to the oil cooler, and
> tried to reinstall the oil filter. It won't fit! The lip of the filter
> (new as received with the new 0-360 A1A engine) interferes with the hose
> fitting.
>
>
> I have a straight "Earl's" fitting on the end of the hose. Is it that
> much larger diameter than all others?
>
>
> I took the straight nipple off the engine and started threading in a
> nipple with a 45 degree bend. It appears that the only way it will work
> is it I point it down and to the left side, but then the hose runs into
> the C/S prop governor bracket. I hate to remove and modify it also.
>
>
> Surely some of the rest of your RV6 guys who are flying must have worked
> around this before.
I have the straight stainless fitting on the engine and a 45 deg fitting on
the hose. Works great.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 642hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Ford" <dford(at)michweb.net> |
| Subject: | RV6 slider windscreen |
I am ready to glass in the windscreen on my slider but would like to secure the
front of the windscreen to the forward skin somehow. Is the best method to rivet
a small piece of aluminum with a platenut to the forward skin then drill
and screw the plex to the secured platenut? Was looking for a method that would
not be too visible from the inside. Am planning to remove fairing for sanding
and painting plexiglass under fairing prior to epoxying fairing in place.
Any suggestions appreciated.
Dave Ford
RV6 finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 slider windscreen |
In a message dated 8/17/2003 7:10:18 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
dford(at)michweb.net writes:
> I am ready to glass in the windscreen on my slider but would like to secure
> the front of the windscreen to the forward skin somehow. Is the best method
> to rivet a small piece of aluminum with a platenut to the forward skin then
> drill and screw the plex to the secured platenut? Was looking for a method
> that would not be too visible from the inside. Am planning to remove fairing
> for sanding and painting Plexiglas under fairing prior to epoxying fairing in
> place. Any suggestions appreciated.
I recommend a good gap (1/8"-3/16") between the boot cowl and the acrylic
windscreen to allow for thermal expansion. Then I used the dreaded Proseal to
form a nice fillet. I don't recommend drilling any more holes than you
absolutely need to in Plexiglas.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 645hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | BMA comments re: Dynon |
1) The statement by a Blue Mountain representative that Dynon can give
false readings durring wind shear is one of the most rediculous things I 've
ever heard.
2) Bad Bad sales tactic to slam your competition. You should instead
stress your product. Indicitive of a generally COCKY attitude taken by Blue
Mountain. Like they know something others don't. Humility is the better
attitude when going places that others have not. (i.e. leading the way with
reasonably priced efis) BMA has an excellent,
maybe superior, product, but they don't seem to approach things with the
somber methodology you would want someone who builds the device you will use
to keep yourself rightside up, should have.
Early BM adopters spoke of situations where there was problems and the
factory didn't admit there were problems.
I much prefer Dynon's (and Grand Rapids - based on customer feedback from
their engine monitors) openness to admit their mistakes and do everything
necessary to make things right.
3) Of course the BMA unit is superior to the Dynon, it costs 2.5 times as
much. +600/yr for code updates, which Dynon makes available at no charge.
Different market entirely.
Don Mei
p.s. having been in the technology sales game for 10+ years, BMA's tactics
are easy to spot. We used to call it F.U.D. for Fear Uncertainty, and
Doubt. "spreading fud about your competitors" Really stupid and useless,
espescially when you consider that BMA has an absolutely brilliant product
line. Maybe that is why Malcolm Thomson became involved. He saw the
brilliant product, with the problems the company was having actually moving
from R&D to production, and saw an opportunity.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | RV6 slider windscreen |
The newer prints call for small "clips" to be pop riveted to the skin. If
done correctly you can't see them at all from the inside. I think I used 4
or 5 evenly spaced.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6, Minneapolis.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dave Ford
Subject: RV-List: RV6 slider windscreen
I am ready to glass in the windscreen on my slider but would like to secure
the front of the windscreen to the forward skin somehow. Is the best method
to rivet a small piece of aluminum with a platenut to the forward skin then
drill and screw the plex to the secured platenut? Was looking for a method
that would not be too visible from the inside. Am planning to remove
fairing for sanding and painting plexiglass under fairing prior to epoxying
fairing in place. Any suggestions appreciated.
Dave Ford
RV6 finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "MARK H DELANO" <delano60(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | N85MD another RV leaves the nest |
Well it has happened again RV6A N85MD created another RV grin today. The first
flight occured at 1530 hr from Centennial airport just south of Denver. The aircraft
departed runway 10 circled the airport for .3hr and landed on runway 35R.
The flight went off with out a hitch. After removing the cowel and a close
inspection a second flight was completed with Keith Hughes at the controlls.
The RV6A has an 0-320E2D with a Sterba wood prop.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | FAB-360 AP (filtered airbox for AFP) |
Does anybody out there have the "FAB-360 AP," the filtered airbox for
Airflow Performance?
http://checkoway.com/url/?s=b4bd06b
I'm trying to adapt my "FAB-HORIZ INDUCTION" (IO-360-A1B6 w/horizontal)
airbox for the AFP injection, and I wanted to see how Van's did it on the
vertical setup before I made any design decisions.
Basically if possible, I'd like to see examples of how people have secured
their airbox to the inlet of the AFP (no flange).
Thanks in advance,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bruno <rv4(at)videotron.ca> |
| Subject: | Re-Canadian Imports |
Hello Neil
----
From: terence.gannon(at)telus.net
Subject: Re: RV-List: Canadian Inports
Hi, Neal...
Shipments from the US to Canada are duty free (thank you, NAFTA) for
products
manufactured in the US, and for which all of Van's stuff seems to qualify --
at least it has for me to this point. There is no provincial sales tax in
Alberta. The only item that will be payable will be GST (the equivalent of
your VAT) and that's only 7%.
-----------
Further to what Terry mentioned regarding (NAFTA, North American Free Trade
Agreement),the Canadian Custom Classification numbers required to be Duty
free is the following:
Custom # 8803.30.00.00
Class # Casual goods (Which include aviation parts)
Ask Vans to write it on your shipping coupon or if you clear customs for
your items yourself,just mentioned it to the custom officer.That will save
him a bit of work and hopefully put him in a good mood.It worked for me.
Cheers
Bruno Dionne
C-GDBH RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gilalex(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Odyssey battery mounting |
Guys ... is this new? Found it looking for Odyssey battery terminal sizes
(It's actually 6 mm, which is close enough to 1/4 inch for electrical
terminal work)
It looks like an aluminum alternative to Vans Odyssey battery steel
box kit, and it's even FAA approved!!
Since it mounts in a similar manner to Vans battery box kit, it
almost looks like a direct replacement... probable even lighter than Vans
steel box, and cutting those 2 inch lightening holes were a b***ch, costing
me a fly cutter!!
No work would be needed on the box... Could it be they designed
it for RVs????
http://www.odysseybatteries.com/pc680hd.htm
...gil in Tucson
... almost completed hanging and wiring stuff
on the firewall
RV-6A, #20701 .. fitting out firewall...
77 Tiger N28478 at 57AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duane Bentley" <dbentley(at)fuse.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil cooler Port Interference |
Just a further clarification.
I had one photo sent to me from a builder showing the installation of a
45 degree fitting oil out-fitting on the accessory case, pointing
towards the 7 o'clock location, aft looking forward. He is correct from
my perspective, and I really appreciate the fast response. This appears
to be the only orientation that allows any exit of the line to clear the
attachments (mags etc.) on the back of the accessory case. However,
whether the 45 degree line is on the fitting at the engine or (the other
suggestion) on the end of the tube (which the attaches to a straight
fitting), the real problem in that area is getting by the prop governor
bracket. I have the new Jihostroj governor installed. It has a
different flange location than that of the McCauley governor, and
requires a different governor bracket. I had a RV8 pilot make me a
close approximation to the bracket he is using with the same governor,
but my bracket doesn't turn aft soon enough, and blocks a part of the
very limited "airspace" needed to run the oil line out towards the left
side. Apparently he made his fit, or else he has a different vintage
engine configuration.
I ordered Van's bracket for this governor tonight, and will see how it
fits rather than start to chop up and re weld my bracket. It will take
a good week to 10 days for it to get here, and then I'll have to remove
the bracket and see what I can fit in.
I just hate going backwards when I'm so close to the end.
Thanks
Duane
RV6 Finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duane Bentley" <dbentley(at)fuse.net> |
| Subject: | FAB-360 AP (filtered airbox for AFP) |
Dan,
AFP sends an oval plate the same size as the top plate cover that came
in the package from Vans. AFP's looks the same except it is "gold"
coated. The other difference is that it has four bolt holes that secure
it to a split "donut" also from AFP. The top plate fits up over the
throat of the air inlet, the donut bolts onto the plate, and then the
donut is squeezed down around the throat of the inlet, with an allen
head screw. The top plate ends up being bolted to the top cover of the
FAB, per Van's instructions.
Duane
RV6 Finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Stribling" <ken(at)soundsuckers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Coax Connector Frustration |
Hi Tim
I just went over to the radio shop in bend and had them make up the cables
for me to length and the worked perfect. cost about 40-60 bucks with the new
style cable.
Cant remember the exact cost.
Stopped by Friday but nobody home, Did look through window at plane, allot
of work between this September and the airport.
Ken S.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Bryan" <tim(at)bryantechnology.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Coax Connector Frustration
>
> Hi Bob,
>
> I understood mine to be crimp on but solder might work.
> I think I will try it today and see what the results are. Whats one more
> connector parts without a center pin anyway. Anybody want to buy some?
>
> -------Original Message-------
>
> From: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Saturday, August 16, 2003 09:01:50 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Re: Coax Connector Frustration
>
>
> I thought the center pin soldered onto the center conductor?
> Maybe yours are different. I use RG-58U/ with solid center conductor.
>
>
> Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
> RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
> Charleston, Arkansas
> "Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers"
>
>
> .
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: N85MD another RV leaves the nest |
Congratulations .... let the fun begin !!!! Fly safe !!
Len Leggette RV-8A
N901LL
Greensboro, N.C.
121 hours !!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Gesele" <tgesele(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How'd you prime inside of control rods? |
Got this trick from a local -8 builder... Take a spray gun with the primer
and and air gun, hold them side-by-side on one side of the tube and spray
both at the same time while rotating the tube (takes two people). Repeat on
the other side.. You can control the coverage to some degree by covering a
portion of the opposite side of the tube while spraying. Seemed to work
well...
Tom Gesele
RV-6 (Finish Kit)
>From: "Roger Evenson" <revenson(at)comcast.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: How'd you prime inside of control rods?
>Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 12:05:15 -0700
>
>
>Any advice out there for priming the inside of control rods? To get good
>coverage, there must be a better way than hand pouring primer inside and
>rotating the tube.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Zercher" <ez(at)sensenich.com> |
| Subject: | Prop Mounting/Flywheel... |
Kurt,
I hope that I am understanding your question. If I am, then you do seem to
have a problem.
You should have a minimum of 4 (sometimes 5 or 6 depending on the engine
setup) flange bushings protruding from your engine flange / starter ring
gear. These bushings should be about 3/16 to 1/4 inch long. I'm wondering if
you have something attached to the engine flange (other then the starter
ring gear) that is taking up the length of the bushings. You should give
Bart a call to confirm the engine flange setup, and then let me know how you
are doing.
Ed Zercher
Sensenich Propeller Manufacturing Company
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N85MD another RV leaves the nest |
Mark,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "MARK H DELANO" <delano60(at)email.msn.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: N85MD another RV leaves the nest
>Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 21:19:30 -0700
>
>
>Well it has happened again RV6A N85MD created another RV grin today. The
>first flight occured at 1530 hr from Centennial airport just south of
>Denver. The aircraft departed runway 10 circled the airport for .3hr and
>landed on runway 35R. The flight went off with out a hitch. After removing
>the cowel and a close inspection a second flight was completed with Keith
>Hughes at the controlls. The RV6A has an 0-320E2D with a Sterba wood prop.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First Eng Start |
John,
Sure feels good to finally start your engine!
Congratulations and we look forward to hearing of your future 1st flight.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: John Mcmahon <rv6(at)earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: RV LIST
>Subject: RV-List: First Eng Start Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 19:16:06 -0500
>
>
>Well after 10 years ,now have first Eng start Weeeeeeee..
>It's a bart Eng ..0/360 A1A C/S LSE right side VM-1000
>This old man be happy!!
>
> John McMahon (RV-6 )
> Gallatin,Tn
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
I now have about 16 hours on my Dynon and flew my first IFR with it this
weekend. I was going to Minot AFB this weekend for Northern Neighbors Day
(airshow) and Friday morning the Metar was 1/2 mile Vis and clear. The
perfect day for a first IFR trip because the haze went all the way to 8000
ft, you could see the ground, barely, but absolutely no horizon. I took off
and hand flew the airplane for sometime and then turned on the Navaid.
Aside from my previous concern about the Dynon sucking you into the cockpit,
I now have another concern, The display is so precise, that I fear I will
become an EFIS cripple. Meaning I may not be able to fly steam gauges
anymore. I can so accurately keep the wings level, the heading almost never
wanders. Same true with pitch, The VSI behaves more like an IVSI and you
can find a pitch that will yield a certain rate of climb or decent and hold
that pitch perfectly and the Rate of climb (or decent) never wanders. What
a device.
By the time I got into ND the haze was burning off, and I started to notice
the device was indicating a slight ~3 deg roll to the left. I centered the
ball and checked my wingtips with the horizon and no doubt about it, it was
indicating a slight bank. I thought, well here we go, this thing won't hold
a calibration...... I tried slipping for a while and see if I could have
any effect on it, but when I centered up, it was still off about 3 deg. I
was not too concerned, I used to fly a 402 frieghter that had a horizon that
was off, about the same and I flew it that way for several years. I was the
airboss for the airshow, so I had bigger fish to fry and did not worry about
it. On Sunday, I hung around Minot with Warren Pietsch and we swapped
airplanes, and I flew his 180 hp clipped wing Taylorcraft. What a hoot!!!
He flew the RV and he really liked it as well.
Last night I left his place and climbing to altitude I noticed the Dynon
still had its bank error, so I decided I would have to send it in. I
leveled at 11,500 turned on the Navaid and settled in for a 440 nm trip.
(2+58 min, 22.5 gallons against a 10+ kt headwind, I love this airplane!)
Shortly after level off, I looked at the Dynon, and it was dead on..... Go
figure???? Anyone else seen any wandering on the Dynon? I will email them
and see what they say.
I am still thrilled with the Dynon and still very willing to fly IFR based
on the backups that I have on board.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:RV-6 slider windscreen |
I would think you should follow Van's plans and put the aluminum clips in
place as Stein said.This adds hold-down power.
The fibreglas also should bond to the aluminum skin as well as the plexi.We
put pop rivets through the glas and aluminum layups at several points, between
layups so they are covered. You don't want the @#$%
& fibreglas to seperate
from the skin OR the plexi !!
With the acute angle between the plexi and the inside skin,you can't see the
clips.
We sanded with #40 grit, both the plexi and skin where the @#$
& fibreglas
goes, masking first of course.
I was helping my neighbor with his RV-6A slider. It has 8 hours & is now
being painted.
Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
Charleston, Arkansas
"Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canadian Inports |
>
>Canadian Listers
>
>I'm considering ordering some parts from Van's for delivery to my
>daughter who lives near Calgary. We are due to visit her soon and am
>thinking I might be able to make a useful saving. Could anyone let
>me know what the import costs likely to be on a small parcel from
>Van's into Canada i.e. Shipping, Duty, Sales Tax ect. Similarly on a
>Navaid. Thanks for you assistance.
>
>Neil Henderson RV9-A Final Stages. nr Aylesbury UK
>
Stay away from UPS, as they use a very expensive customs broker to
bring stuff across the border. Or at least they did five years ago,
when I got burned with brokerage fees that exceeded the cost of the
parts in the package. I haven't used them since. I use the US Post
Office almost exclusively. That way the Canadian Post Office does
the customs paperwork, and they only charge $5 Cdn. You can get the
US Post Office postage at:
http://ircalc.usps.gov/
There is no duty on aircraft parts. Federal Goods and Services Tax
will be 7%. Calgary is in Alberta, which has no provincial sales tax.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Upgrade to IFR |
AC 20-138 calls up a few tests over and above just doing approaches.
E.g. it calls for a check that the GPS maintains its Nav capability
during 30 deg bank turns. This is likely won't be a problem, unless
you have mounted the antenna in a strange location. It is definitely
worth taking a close look at AC 20-138.
The AC also calls for a check to be sure that the GPS signal
reception isn't affected when you transmit on a list of six specific
frequencies. These frequencies are of interest as the GPS signal
frequency is a harmonic of these six frequencies, so if there is a
installation problem with your unit, transmission on one or more of
those frequencies could cause the GPS to loss it signal. I did a
number of airworthiness flight tests on GPS installations back in the
days when the first IFR GPS units came out. I saw problems with GPS
signal loss when transmitting on VHF on about 10 - 20% of the
installations. Usually the problem was fixed by improving the
bonding between one of the antennae and the aircraft skin.
There is also a DME frequency that could cause problems, 108.9, on
the off chance that someone has a DME installation.
Kevin Horton
>
>Laird,
>
>If you haven't already, read AC 20-138. It gives you the guidance and the
>logbook entries to make. My interpretation was that you have to demonstrate
>to yourself that the thing works as advertised by shooting several
>approaches as described in the AC. Make the appropriate logbook entries,
>then you are good to go. If you call your local FISDO they might bring up a
>337 requirement. First, I don't think you need a FISDO signoff or DAR
>signoff or a 337, however, it might be considered a major alteration which
>would require a new test period. If it were me, I would check with the
>FISDO only to the extent that I might need a new test period for the
>alteration.
>
>Happy flying.
>
>Pat Hatch
>RV-4
>RV-6
>RV-7 QB (Building)
>Vero Beach, FL
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Laird Owens" <owens(at)aerovironment.com>
>To: "rv-list" ; "SoCAL-RVlist"
>
>Subject: RV-List: Upgrade to IFR
>
>
>>
>> OK,
>>
>> So I went out and got my IFR ticket recently (in a C172...ugg). Now I
>> want to upgrade my RV so I can use it to pop thru the coastal
>> overcast once in a while and to stay current.
>>
>> I've ordered a new Garmin-430/CDI from John Stark, and that'll be
>> here in a couple of weeks. Putting in the 430 is no big deal (except
>> to my wallet).
>>
>> Aside from the 91.411 Altimeter system/altitude reporting equipment
>> check (I already have the 91.413 transponder check), the standard 30
>> day VOR check, and other equipment required for IFR flight (ie,
>> clock, gyros...) what else is required to use the 430 in the system?
>>
>> Do I just note the installation in the log book, then boldly launch
>> into the soup (of course that's not going to happen until I get
>> enough hood time and feel comfortable using the 430), or is there
>> some kind of DAR signoff, FSDO signoff, or some special verbiage for
>> the log book.
>>
>> Any help would be appreciated.
>>
>> Laird RV-6 780 hrs
> > SoCal
>>
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com> |
what was to happen if you "reset" the dynon in flight? Can you do that.
Just "pull the plug" and turn it back on to "clear" it.
>From: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Dynon IFR
>Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 09:22:28 -0500
>
>
>I now have about 16 hours on my Dynon and flew my first IFR with it this
>weekend. I was going to Minot AFB this weekend for Northern Neighbors Day
>(airshow) and Friday morning the Metar was 1/2 mile Vis and clear. The
>perfect day for a first IFR trip because the haze went all the way to 8000
>ft, you could see the ground, barely, but absolutely no horizon. I took
>off
>and hand flew the airplane for sometime and then turned on the Navaid.
>Aside from my previous concern about the Dynon sucking you into the
>cockpit,
>I now have another concern, The display is so precise, that I fear I will
>become an EFIS cripple. Meaning I may not be able to fly steam gauges
>anymore. I can so accurately keep the wings level, the heading almost
>never
>wanders. Same true with pitch, The VSI behaves more like an IVSI and you
>can find a pitch that will yield a certain rate of climb or decent and hold
>that pitch perfectly and the Rate of climb (or decent) never wanders.
>What
>a device.
>
>
>By the time I got into ND the haze was burning off, and I started to notice
>the device was indicating a slight ~3 deg roll to the left. I centered the
>ball and checked my wingtips with the horizon and no doubt about it, it was
>indicating a slight bank. I thought, well here we go, this thing won't
>hold
>a calibration...... I tried slipping for a while and see if I could have
>any effect on it, but when I centered up, it was still off about 3 deg. I
>was not too concerned, I used to fly a 402 frieghter that had a horizon
>that
>was off, about the same and I flew it that way for several years. I was
>the
>airboss for the airshow, so I had bigger fish to fry and did not worry
>about
>it. On Sunday, I hung around Minot with Warren Pietsch and we swapped
>airplanes, and I flew his 180 hp clipped wing Taylorcraft. What a hoot!!!
>He flew the RV and he really liked it as well.
>
>Last night I left his place and climbing to altitude I noticed the Dynon
>still had its bank error, so I decided I would have to send it in. I
>leveled at 11,500 turned on the Navaid and settled in for a 440 nm trip.
>(2+58 min, 22.5 gallons against a 10+ kt headwind, I love this airplane!)
>Shortly after level off, I looked at the Dynon, and it was dead on..... Go
>figure???? Anyone else seen any wandering on the Dynon? I will email
>them
>and see what they say.
>
>I am still thrilled with the Dynon and still very willing to fly IFR based
>on the backups that I have on board.
>
>Tailwinds,
>Doug Rozendaal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Canadian Inports |
> Stay away from UPS,
I agree. It took me 3 weeks to get same-day-shipped parts from Aircraft Spruce
into Canada using UPS. And it was expensive, too.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
I did reboot it, and the problem persisted for about 1 flight hour total
over 2 days and several start ups.
Tailwinds,
Doug
----- Original Message -----
From: "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon IFR
>
> what was to happen if you "reset" the dynon in flight? Can you do that.
> Just "pull the plug" and turn it back on to "clear" it.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re Canadian Imports |
Kevin Horton beat me to the punch! I was about to send the same message about UPS
vice US / Canadian Post. I also got stung once, by UPS, by the high brokerage
fees but what really riled me, by the time their bill arrived, they charged
interest on the Ontario Sales Tax and the Federal Goods and Service funds they
paid! "Snail Mail" is the way to go!
Cheers!!-----Henry Hore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Canadian Inports |
Tedd McHenry wrote:
>>Stay away from UPS,
>
> I agree. It took me 3 weeks to get same-day-shipped parts from Aircraft Spruce
> into Canada using UPS. And it was expensive, too.
In contrast, i've used UPS for dozens of shipments and had no trouble at
all. The difference is that I have all of mine sent to a mail drop just
south of the border, pick them up myself, and hand-carry them across.
It lowers the shipping cost, removes the brokerage fee, and I don't have
to pay Canada Post $5 either. I figure it costs me $5 in gas to go pick
up a package when I need to.
I hear that the USPS priority services are cheaper than UPS, so maybe
using USPS and paying Canada Post their $5 handling fee is comparable to
UPS' rates without the brokerage fee.
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Re Canadian Imports |
Isn't there a aircraft supply in Canada? Or is there a benefit of bringing
it in from the US?
>
>Kevin Horton beat me to the punch! I was about to send the same message
>about UPS vice US / Canadian Post. I also got stung once, by UPS, by the
>high brokerage fees but what really riled me, by the time their bill
>arrived, they charged interest on the Ontario Sales Tax and the Federal
>Goods and Service funds they paid! "Snail Mail" is the way to go!
> Cheers!!-----Henry Hore
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Upgrade to IFR |
Thanks to all for the info.
I got a little hood time in the RV for the first time this weekend.
My safety pilot was in the airplane following behind me while I had a
map over my head on our way back from camping at Yellowstone. He got
a kick out of seeing me all over the sky.
I definitely need more practice! Sure glad I have an 2 axis AP in
the RV to help if it ever came to actual. One other thing I learned
is that the guy with the AP gets to lead the flight....
Laird
>
>When it comes to major alterations/changes read your Operating Limitations.
>They will/should tell you what to do. If you have older Limitations it
>will/should have something about informing your local FSDO prior to making
>any alterations/changes. With the newer Limitations it says that you just
>make the major alterations , make a lofbook entry, place the aircraft back
>into a minimum 5 hour test flight period, fly the test flight, sign off the
>logbook, and go on your merry way. In neither case will you need to do a
>337. A logbook entry is all thats required.
>
>Mike Robertson
>
>
>>From: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com>
>>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>To:
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Upgrade to IFR
>>Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2003 15:19:45 -0400
>>
>>
>>Laird,
>>
>>If you haven't already, read AC 20-138. It gives you the guidance and the
>>logbook entries to make. My interpretation was that you have to
>>demonstrate
>>to yourself that the thing works as advertised by shooting several
>>approaches as described in the AC. Make the appropriate logbook entries,
>>then you are good to go. If you call your local FISDO they might bring up
>>a
>>337 requirement. First, I don't think you need a FISDO signoff or DAR
>>signoff or a 337, however, it might be considered a major alteration which
>>would require a new test period. If it were me, I would check with the
>>FISDO only to the extent that I might need a new test period for the
>>alteration.
>>
>>Happy flying.
>>
>>Pat Hatch
>>RV-4
>>RV-6
>>RV-7 QB (Building)
>>Vero Beach, FL
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Laird Owens" <owens(at)aerovironment.com>
>>To: "rv-list" ; "SoCAL-RVlist"
>>
>>Subject: RV-List: Upgrade to IFR
>>
>>
>> >
>> > OK,
>> >
>> > So I went out and got my IFR ticket recently (in a C172...ugg). Now I
>> > want to upgrade my RV so I can use it to pop thru the coastal
>> > overcast once in a while and to stay current.
>> >
>> > I've ordered a new Garmin-430/CDI from John Stark, and that'll be
>> > here in a couple of weeks. Putting in the 430 is no big deal (except
>> > to my wallet).
>> >
>> > Aside from the 91.411 Altimeter system/altitude reporting equipment
>> > check (I already have the 91.413 transponder check), the standard 30
>> > day VOR check, and other equipment required for IFR flight (ie,
>> > clock, gyros...) what else is required to use the 430 in the system?
>> >
>> > Do I just note the installation in the log book, then boldly launch
>> > into the soup (of course that's not going to happen until I get
>> > enough hood time and feel comfortable using the 430), or is there
>> > some kind of DAR signoff, FSDO signoff, or some special verbiage for
>> > the log book.
>> >
>> > Any help would be appreciated.
>> >
>> > Laird RV-6 780 hrs
>> > SoCal
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Export shipping costs was Canadian Imports |
Listers,
Just a note for our Australian & Kiwi friends. Todd Silver of Todd's Canopies http://www.kgarden.com/todd/ stopped by to check the progress of my 8A last week. During our conversation, he told me that he recently shipped RV-8 canopies to both Australia and Canada. He was amazed that shipping and duty totaled less for the Australian customer! So Aussies cheer up! You don't ALWAYS pay the highest shipping.
Charlie Kuss
>
>>
>>Canadian Listers
>>
>>I'm considering ordering some parts from Van's for delivery to my
>>daughter who lives near Calgary. We are due to visit her soon and am
>>thinking I might be able to make a useful saving. Could anyone let
>>me know what the import costs likely to be on a small parcel from
>>Van's into Canada i.e. Shipping, Duty, Sales Tax ect. Similarly on a
>>Navaid. Thanks for you assistance.
>>
>>Neil Henderson RV9-A Final Stages. nr Aylesbury UK
>>
>
>Stay away from UPS, as they use a very expensive customs broker to
>bring stuff across the border. Or at least they did five years ago,
>when I got burned with brokerage fees that exceeded the cost of the
>parts in the package. I haven't used them since. I use the US Post
>Office almost exclusively. That way the Canadian Post Office does
>the customs paperwork, and they only charge $5 Cdn. You can get the
>US Post Office postage at:
>
>http://ircalc.usps.gov/
>
>There is no duty on aircraft parts. Federal Goods and Services Tax
>will be 7%. Calgary is in Alberta, which has no provincial sales tax.
>--
>Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
>Ottawa, Canada
>http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Doug,
Have you loaded the latest software? Version 1.04 has a fix that prevent roll
errors. It is on the Dynon web sight.
Alan Kritzman
Cedar Rapids, IA
RV-8 85 hours, 25 with the Dynon.
I started to noticethe device was indicating a slight ~3 deg roll to the left.
I centered theball and checked my wingtips with the horizon and no doubt about
it, it wasindicating a slight bank. I thought, well here we go, this thing won't
holda calibration......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil cooler Port Interference |
Duane,
There is an alternate location for the oil out port on the accessory case
right next to the oil cooler return line. Look on your accessaory case
right next to where the oil cooler hose return port is. There should be
another plugged port right there next to the breather port. That is the
alternate oil cooler feed port. Take the plug out and screw it into the oil
cooler feed port between the magnetos. That should solve the problem.
Mike Robertson
>From: "Duane Bentley" <dbentley(at)fuse.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Re: Oil cooler Port Interference
>Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 01:15:57 -0400
>
>
>Just a further clarification.
>
>
>I had one photo sent to me from a builder showing the installation of a
>45 degree fitting oil out-fitting on the accessory case, pointing
>towards the 7 o'clock location, aft looking forward. He is correct from
>my perspective, and I really appreciate the fast response. This appears
>to be the only orientation that allows any exit of the line to clear the
>attachments (mags etc.) on the back of the accessory case. However,
>whether the 45 degree line is on the fitting at the engine or (the other
>suggestion) on the end of the tube (which the attaches to a straight
>fitting), the real problem in that area is getting by the prop governor
>bracket. I have the new Jihostroj governor installed. It has a
>different flange location than that of the McCauley governor, and
>requires a different governor bracket. I had a RV8 pilot make me a
>close approximation to the bracket he is using with the same governor,
>but my bracket doesn't turn aft soon enough, and blocks a part of the
>very limited "airspace" needed to run the oil line out towards the left
>side. Apparently he made his fit, or else he has a different vintage
>engine configuration.
>
>
>I ordered Van's bracket for this governor tonight, and will see how it
>fits rather than start to chop up and re weld my bracket. It will take
>a good week to 10 days for it to get here, and then I'll have to remove
>the bracket and see what I can fit in.
>
>
>I just hate going backwards when I'm so close to the end.
>
>
>Thanks
>
>
>Duane
>
>
>RV6 Finishing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Re Canadian Imports |
On Mon, 18 Aug 2003, Scott Bilinski wrote:
> Isn't there a aircraft supply in Canada?
Sure, there are lots of places you can buy from. I'm not knocking any of them,
but they don't have the inventory that Aircraft Spruce has. If I'm ordering a
common part I use Lindair in Richmond (as for example today, where I'm buying
some SCAT tubing and spark plugs), or Demel in Penticton. But for less common
parts they will likely only have to order them in for you from the U.S.,
anyway.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oil cooler Port Interference |
In a message dated 8/17/03 5:01:39 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
dbentley(at)fuse.net writes:
<< The recommended port from the engine to the oil cooler is the one
between the two mags. So I removed the oil filter, installed the
straight #8 nipple, attached the hose from it to the oil cooler, and
tried to reinstall the oil filter. It won't fit! The lip of the filter
(new as received with the new 0-360 A1A engine) interferes with the hose
fitting.
>>
I just installed mine a few weeks ago. Used a 45 degree pipe to AN fitting
in the engine (O-360 A1A) and did not have to remove the oil filter. It's a
little difficult to get a wrench in there to tighten the fitting in the engine
but otherwise no problem. I pointed the fitting down and used much shorter
hoses than Van shows on RV-7/9 engine install dwgs.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, firewall forward
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <tim(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Prop Mounting/Flywheel... |
Not sure if I read the original post correctly, but the 2 bushings that came
on my bart engine were merely packing to keep the ring gear on the engine.
Tim Bryan
RV-6
-------Original Message-------
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Monday, August 18, 2003 07:06:11 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Prop Mounting/Flywheel...
Kurt,
I hope that I am understanding your question. If I am, then you do seem to
have a problem.
You should have a minimum of 4 (sometimes 5 or 6 depending on the engine
setup) flange bushings protruding from your engine flange / starter ring
gear. These bushings should be about 3/16 to 1/4 inch long. I'm wondering if
you have something attached to the engine flange (other then the starter
ring gear) that is taking up the length of the bushings. You should give
Bart a call to confirm the engine flange setup, and then let me know how you
are doing.
Ed Zercher
Sensenich Propeller Manufacturing Company
.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garry Legare <versadek(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Upgrade to IFR |
Laird,
You sure got that right. Tom Deide (Beautiful RV8) and I + wives just
flew up to Vancouver Island this week end. Since I've done this trip
before I lead. It was amazing how much his altitude wandered, and he's a
good stick. The little Altrac button is the greatest toy yet. Speaking
of toys the Dynon people just called, my D10 shipps tomorrow, order #
454, ordered on July 22, just before Oskosh maddness. They initialy
quoted a mid October ship date. Are people getting cold feet or what.
Casper
Laird Owens wrote:
>
>Thanks to all for the info.
>
>I got a little hood time in the RV for the first time this weekend.
>My safety pilot was in the airplane following behind me while I had a
>map over my head on our way back from camping at Yellowstone. He got
>a kick out of seeing me all over the sky.
>
>I definitely need more practice! Sure glad I have an 2 axis AP in
>the RV to help if it ever came to actual. One other thing I learned
>is that the guy with the AP gets to lead the flight....
>
>Laird
>
>
>
>
>>
>>When it comes to major alterations/changes read your Operating Limitations.
>>They will/should tell you what to do. If you have older Limitations it
>>will/should have something about informing your local FSDO prior to making
>>any alterations/changes. With the newer Limitations it says that you just
>>make the major alterations , make a lofbook entry, place the aircraft back
>>into a minimum 5 hour test flight period, fly the test flight, sign off the
>>logbook, and go on your merry way. In neither case will you need to do a
>>337. A logbook entry is all thats required.
>>
>>Mike Robertson
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>From: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com>
>>>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>>To:
>>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Upgrade to IFR
>>>Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2003 15:19:45 -0400
>>>
>>>
>>>Laird,
>>>
>>>If you haven't already, read AC 20-138. It gives you the guidance and the
>>>logbook entries to make. My interpretation was that you have to
>>>demonstrate
>>>to yourself that the thing works as advertised by shooting several
>>>approaches as described in the AC. Make the appropriate logbook entries,
>>>then you are good to go. If you call your local FISDO they might bring up
>>>a
>>>337 requirement. First, I don't think you need a FISDO signoff or DAR
>>>signoff or a 337, however, it might be considered a major alteration which
>>>would require a new test period. If it were me, I would check with the
>>>FISDO only to the extent that I might need a new test period for the
>>>alteration.
>>>
>>>Happy flying.
>>>
>>>Pat Hatch
>>>RV-4
>>>RV-6
>>>RV-7 QB (Building)
>>>Vero Beach, FL
>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>From: "Laird Owens" <owens(at)aerovironment.com>
>>>To: "rv-list" ; "SoCAL-RVlist"
>>>
>>>Subject: RV-List: Upgrade to IFR
>>>
>>>
>>> >
>>> > OK,
>>> >
>>> > So I went out and got my IFR ticket recently (in a C172...ugg). Now I
>>> > want to upgrade my RV so I can use it to pop thru the coastal
>>> > overcast once in a while and to stay current.
>>> >
>>> > I've ordered a new Garmin-430/CDI from John Stark, and that'll be
>>> > here in a couple of weeks. Putting in the 430 is no big deal (except
>>> > to my wallet).
>>> >
>>> > Aside from the 91.411 Altimeter system/altitude reporting equipment
>>> > check (I already have the 91.413 transponder check), the standard 30
>>> > day VOR check, and other equipment required for IFR flight (ie,
>>> > clock, gyros...) what else is required to use the 430 in the system?
>>> >
>>> > Do I just note the installation in the log book, then boldly launch
>>> > into the soup (of course that's not going to happen until I get
>>> > enough hood time and feel comfortable using the 430), or is there
>>> > some kind of DAR signoff, FSDO signoff, or some special verbiage for
>>> > the log book.
>>> >
>>> > Any help would be appreciated.
>>> >
>>> > Laird RV-6 780 hrs
>>> > SoCal
>>> >
>>> >
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
(This thread is regarding high altitude vs low altitude take-offs)
> >If you do let it fly off in a three point attitude, it
> should do so at
> >the same indicated airspeed in either case.
Not true.... keep in mind that the ANGLE of climb at altitude will be
much less (less power), both initially, but more importantly, after one
loses ground effect. Even if the IAS is identical, the angle of climb
will be less, and if one puts the nose at the same point on the horizon
as at sea level (pitch angle), the IAS will drop rapidly. The pitch
angle during climbs needs to be less at altitude, even when the IAS is
the same.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 341 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wilder, Scott" <SWilder(at)LOWEENTERPRISES.com> |
I am building my -4 tanks, got three quick ones:
1. How to cover the tooling holes in the end ribs.
2. On the inverted tank, is there any reason to install the access
plate in the second bay with the sender, or leave the plate in the first
bay for clean out and install the sender in the second bay directly to
the baffle?
3. How to terminate the vent line in the outboard bay, bend down then
up into the highest point, how close to the skin, secured in any way at
the end?
Scott Wilder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Canadian Inports |
I second Kevin on this one. USPS/Canada post is the best value, unless you
need it overnight or it's too heavy. Usually takes around five business days
enroute.
Curt
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Horton" <khorto1537(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Canadian Inports
>
> >
> >Canadian Listers
> >
> >I'm considering ordering some parts from Van's for delivery to my
> >daughter who lives near Calgary. We are due to visit her soon and am
> >thinking I might be able to make a useful saving. Could anyone let
> >me know what the import costs likely to be on a small parcel from
> >Van's into Canada i.e. Shipping, Duty, Sales Tax ect. Similarly on a
> >Navaid. Thanks for you assistance.
> >
> >Neil Henderson RV9-A Final Stages. nr Aylesbury UK
> >
>
> Stay away from UPS, as they use a very expensive customs broker to
> bring stuff across the border. Or at least they did five years ago,
> when I got burned with brokerage fees that exceeded the cost of the
> parts in the package. I haven't used them since. I use the US Post
> Office almost exclusively. That way the Canadian Post Office does
> the customs paperwork, and they only charge $5 Cdn. You can get the
> US Post Office postage at:
>
> http://ircalc.usps.gov/
>
> There is no duty on aircraft parts. Federal Goods and Services Tax
> will be 7%. Calgary is in Alberta, which has no provincial sales tax.
> --
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
How about thinking the potential positive side of it ...
They **MIGHT** be ramping up production and catching up on the backlog. :-)
Also aren't you happier that it turned out in the calendar order it did? :-)
I don't think ANYBODY is getting cold feet over this unit.
James
... just an opinion
<<>>
> good stick. The little Altrac button is the greatest toy yet. Speaking
> of toys the Dynon people just called, my D10 shipps tomorrow, order #
> 454, ordered on July 22, just before Oskosh maddness. They initialy
> quoted a mid October ship date. Are people getting cold feet or what.
> Casper
>
> La
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duane Bentley" <dbentley(at)fuse.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil cooler Port Interference |
Thanks to all of you who sent suggestions.
I removed the prop governor cable bracket, and with the oil filter off,
had reasonable access to the area of need. After installing a standard
45 degree steel fitting into the oil out port underneath the oil filter
pad, and orienting it in just the right direction, there is just enough
room for the #8 oil line and fitting to connect and run to the left side
of the engine as several of you had stated. It takes a couple of crow
foot wrenches to get in there and tighten up the fittings.
However, there is no room for the governor bracket that I had previously
fabricated for the Jihostroj governor (used for the MT propeller - or in
my case the Whirlwind prop).
This governor mounts to the four bolt engine flange, and that is the
only set of bracket attachment flanges, unlike the McCauley governor,
which has a second, more aft head on the end of it's body, with about
nine screws to which the Van's design McCauley bracket mounts.
I went ahead and ordered the Van's design bracket for the Jihostroj
governor and will let you know how it fits. I've got other work I can
do, rather than redesign my own bracket at this point.
In the mean time, it's back to final riveting of the engine baffles and
the last of the work under the cowl.
Duane Bentley
RV6 Finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson(at)consolidated.net> |
| Subject: | Re: tank questions |
Question 2
I mounted mine direct to the rear baffle in the second bay. RV6
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:tank questions |
1. I used 3/16 rivets doped with Pro-Seal to close the tooling holes.
2. I put the sender in the second bay and left the inspection hole in the
inboard rib. You might have to get in there sometime. I have removed tanks and
they aren't as tough as you would think. Just be GENEROUS with Pro-Seal so you
don't have to go in there.
3.I ran the vent line out to the filler cap ring and had a tab there,anchored
with one of the cap ring rivets,to secure the line against the tank top. I
doped the tube NEAR the end with Pro-Seal to hold it against vibration. Keep
the end open and clear !!!
I once forgot to tighten the nut on the vent line at the tank end rib,that's
how I got experience removing a tank.
Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
Charleston, Arkansas
"Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Instruments for Sale before e-Bay |
I have the following stuff for sale to the group before they hit e-Bay. All
items have about 50 hours of use on them unless noted otherwise. I can
forward pictures to serious buyers and if you are not happy with the items, I will
refund the purchase price (less shipping) if returned to me in the same
condition within 2 weeks.
Falcon G-Meter
model GM510-2
-5G to +10G
2 1/4 size
purchased brand new, used 50 hours
looks and works like new - $190
Van's sells for $228
I have the calibration sheet
Airborne Vacuum regulator
model 2H3-12
S/N 2AU
purchased brand new, used 50 hours
looks and works like new - $300
Spruce sells for $599!
Airborne Vacuum Pump
model 82-50122
S/N 8267
This is an used pump when I received it, but it was on my RV-4 and works
excellent.
Looks rough, works great
$50
Quartz Electric Aircraft Clock
2 1/4" size
Spruce part # 10-22812
purchased brand new, used 50 hours
looks and works like new - $60
Spruce sells for $78
I have the original instruction sheet
Vacuum system filter
Airborne part number D9-18-1
purchased brand new, used 50 hours
looks and works like new - $20
Ameri-King Encoder
Model AK-350
purchased brand new, used 50 hours
includes directions, wire harness, mounting plate
looks and works like brand new - $120
Spruce sells for $151
Varga 1" Suction Gauge
purchased brand new, used 50 hours
Spruce sells for $60
looks and works like new - $45
Cageable Gullwing Gyro Horizon (attitude indicator)
model A 57436-1A
purchased brand new from Spruce, used 50 hours
Spruce sells for $419
looks and works like new - $350
SigmaTek Directional Gyro
Yellow tagged
Model 4000B-30
Very nice condition, $310
Please let me know if anyone is interested, if not they'll be on e-Bay by the
weekend.
Thanks for looking!
-Mike Kraus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: tank questions |
Scott,
I filled the tooling holes with AN426AD6 rivets. AN470AD6 rivets would also work.
Cover the rivets inside and out with Proseal after you've set them. I've built
4 fuel tanks and so far, none have leaked.
I'd leave the access plate in the inboard rib. You will eventually need to replace
the flop tube in your inverted tank. That would be an extremely difficult
job without an access port.
I simply bent the tube up to get it very close to the top skin at it's outboard
end. I fabricated a P type clamp per my RV-8A fuel tank drawing. This was riveted
to the tank where the filler neck is riveted on. I've got some photos if
you'd like to see them. Contact me off list.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8A cockpit systems stuff
>
>I am building my -4 tanks, got three quick ones:
>
>1. How to cover the tooling holes in the end ribs.
>
>2. On the inverted tank, is there any reason to install the access
>plate in the second bay with the sender, or leave the plate in the first
>bay for clean out and install the sender in the second bay directly to
>the baffle?
>
>3. How to terminate the vent line in the outboard bay, bend down then
>up into the highest point, how close to the skin, secured in any way at
>the end?
>
>
>Scott Wilder
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | BMA comments re: Dynon |
Don,
As a Blue Mountain EFIS/one customer, there are a couple of things I must
disagree with in your post. Unfortunately, I must agree with some of the
more significant criticism. If I had talked to Malcolm before I bought, my
conscience probably would not have allowed me to buy Blue Mountain, even
though I think they have an outstanding product for a reasonable price.
Throughout my years in business, I have refused to do business with people
or companies who do a significant amount of running down their competition.
I think it is at best bad form and at worst unethical. Malcolm, the new
general manager as of about a year ago trash talks like a professional
basketball player. I think it's disgusting.
My disagreements with your post: First, the "$600 a year for code updates,
which Dynon makes available for free" is very misleading. (Lets be clear
that I am talking about the EFIS/one, which I expect to take delivery on
within a month.) It's $695 a year, but that's for "system software release
as they become available, access to our engineers, 3D terrain and
navigational data and extended 1 year warranty. High Resolution Continental
U S Data Only. Required with initial purchase of the EFIS/One but service
starts when you are ready." I had always thought of that as a chart service
provided on a regular schedule, with any software updates included on the
same DVD. Dynon isn't in the business of providing charts, let alone high
and low altitude charts plus VFR charts plus terrain data at high resolution
for the entire US.
When you talk about Blue Mountain, especially in comparison to Dynon, you
must be clear if you are talking about the EFIS/one or the EFIS/lite,
although the Lite is getting a lot of the features being developed for the
EFIS/one. The EFIS/one has as standard a display of 16 engine gauges and a
GPS moving map, an H.S.I. with glide slope, ground speed, wind speed and
direction, and a G meter and I'm sure I have forgotten something. I don't
believe Dynon has any of these, and you will never hear me knock Dynon. I
think they are an excellent company with an excellent product. But they are
not building a screen with the above features. I believe the BM EFIS/one
includes everything Dynon does PLUS the above, and I haven't yet mentioned
synthetic vision, where you see the profile of the terrain you are flying
toward on the Attitude Indicator, in red if it's at your altitude or above,
as it is on the moving map.
If you want to see what their customers think of their product and get a
feel for how quickly the company responds to suggestions and requests, go to
http://bluemountainavionics.com and locate the discussion list on the INFO
button. I get the idea that like Dynon, they are smart people doing great
things. They are a little more flamboyant, perhaps, and at least one of
them sure knows how to piss off potential customers.
Terry
RV-8A #80729 finishing
Aero Sport Power IO-360-B1B, Blue Mountain EFIS/one, Proprietary Software
AoA and a Van's Air Force T shirt
* RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" don_mei(at)hotmail.com
*
(1) The statement by a Blue Mountain representative that Dynon can give
false readings durring wind shear is one of the most rediculous things I 've
ever heard.
2) Bad Bad sales tactic to slam your competition. You should instead
stress your product. Indicitive of a generally COCKY attitude taken by Blue
Mountain. Like they know something others don't. Humility is the better
attitude when going places that others have not. (i.e. leading the way with
reasonably priced efis) BMA has an excellent,
maybe superior, product, but they don't seem to approach things with the
somber methodology you would want someone who builds the device you will use
to keep yourself rightside up, should have.
Early BM adopters spoke of situations where there was problems and the
factory didn't admit there were problems.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | doug <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Export shipping costs was Canadian Imports |
I agree, delivery to Australia is remarkably good both pricewise (except
via UPS) and timewise. Delivery via parcel post is usually 5 working days.
I once made the mistake of telling Vans I needed something urgently. It
arrived no sooner by UPS and then I received a huge invoice from UPS for
customs clearance charges several weeks later. A $60 shipment ended up
costing approximately $300 (USD) including local G/S Tax by the end of
the event. UPS burned their bridges with me that day.
Doug Gray
Sydney.
Charlie Kuss wrote:
>
> Listers,
> Just a note for our Australian & Kiwi friends. Todd Silver of Todd's Canopies http://www.kgarden.com/todd/ stopped by to check the progress of my 8A last week. During our conversation, he told me that he recently shipped RV-8 canopies to both Australia and Canada. He was amazed that shipping and duty totaled less for the Australian customer! So Aussies cheer up! You don't ALWAYS pay the highest shipping.
> Charlie Kuss
>
>
>>
>>>
>>>Canadian Listers
>>>
>>>I'm considering ordering some parts from Van's for delivery to my
>>>daughter who lives near Calgary. We are due to visit her soon and am
>>>thinking I might be able to make a useful saving. Could anyone let
>>>me know what the import costs likely to be on a small parcel from
>>>Van's into Canada i.e. Shipping, Duty, Sales Tax ect. Similarly on a
>>>Navaid. Thanks for you assistance.
>>>
>>>Neil Henderson RV9-A Final Stages. nr Aylesbury UK
>>>
>>
>>Stay away from UPS, as they use a very expensive customs broker to
>>bring stuff across the border. Or at least they did five years ago,
>>when I got burned with brokerage fees that exceeded the cost of the
>>parts in the package. I haven't used them since. I use the US Post
>>Office almost exclusively. That way the Canadian Post Office does
>>the customs paperwork, and they only charge $5 Cdn. You can get the
>>US Post Office postage at:
>>
>>http://ircalc.usps.gov/
>>
>>There is no duty on aircraft parts. Federal Goods and Services Tax
>>will be 7%. Calgary is in Alberta, which has no provincial sales tax.
>>--
>>Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
>>Ottawa, Canada
>>http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "D. Jones" <dljinia(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | FAB Horizontal - snorkle |
Group: I have a IO360-A1B6 using Vans horizontal
induction "snorkle". Should there be a gasket between
the bendix injector pump housing and the fiberglass
snorkle? If so, what's should it be made from?
Should I have seen this with the snorkle or is this
something that I should get from Bendix?
TIA,
Doug -7A finish, fwf, baffles
http://www.oncloud7.com/rv7.htm
__________________________________
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | MT Prop Governor cable firewall pass-thru |
Fellow Listers,
I'm looking for any documentation (photos / descriptions) of anyone that is using/installed
the MT prop governor.
I need to find out where the best location for the cable to come through the firewall.
I'm currently in the process of figuring out where stuff goes on the firewall and
this is one of the items......
Thanks,
Ralph Capen
Installing the grounding block and don't want it in the way of something later!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 leading edge aux tanks? |
>Yes someone has and I'm trying to remember his name. Purple RV-4, saw it
at Osh last year. He flew it to Argentina or Chile, Fin del Mundo (end of
the world) I think. Claudio ?? T..? Someone help me out here... He's in
>Florida.
I Believe his name is Antonio Tonini. Being fluent in Spanish we chatted
when I saw his purple RV at one of Fulton's (Oswego Co airport, NY) RV
Forums a few years back. I seem to remember details of his trip were
published in an RVator a few years ago.
Cheers!----Henry Hore--C-GELS,
RV-6A.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: MT Prop Governor cable firewall pass-thru |
I followed Van's plans to the T when drilling firewall pass-throughs for
governor and mixture cables. This is on the RV-7. Anyway, I'm almost
positive that Van hasn't updated the plans for the new Jihostroj governor
and bracket, which is a different animal than the old heavy McCauley
governor.
If I were to do it again, I would locate the prop governor cable
pass-through as far to the left of the firewall as possible, because it
really does end up needing to turn sharply and pass parallel to the firewall
about 1" in front of the firewall. The more left you punch through, the
more gentle curve you can set up.
Photos here: http://www.rvproject.com/20030722.html
The photos show how sharp a turn the cable has to make (impossible without
eyeball fittings, I would think) to get where it needs to go.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: MT Prop Governor cable firewall pass-thru
>
> Fellow Listers,
>
> I'm looking for any documentation (photos / descriptions) of anyone that
is using/installed the MT prop governor.
>
> I need to find out where the best location for the cable to come through
the firewall.
>
> I'm currently in the process of figuring out where stuff goes on the
firewall and this is one of the items......
>
> Thanks,
> Ralph Capen
> Installing the grounding block and don't want it in the way of something
later!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FlashandCo(at)aol.com |
Listers,
I have a MA4-5 carburetor that I plan to use on my 0360-A1A, but I received the
carb used, not tagged. I consider it an unknown and have decided to rebuild/overhaul
it. I bought the Precision Service Manual and the Consolidated overhaul
kit from AC$. In looking at the manual I see the need for tooling, especially
to pull the throttle shaft bushings and install new ones. Does anyone out
there have a set of tooling they would be willing to loan (or rent). Tool P/N's
are M-94, M-105, M-105A, M-122, M-516. Thanks for any help.
Bob Gordon
Dover DE
RV6 finishing up on FWF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garry Legare <versadek(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Upgrade to IFR |
James,
Geez guy read my post again, I said are people getting cold feet . I
didn't say I was getting cold feet. When Julie asked if I wanted to move
up the line I would have just said NO. In over 25 years of experimental
aircraft building and flying I've done more than my fair share of "Beta
Testing", most recently the Whirlwind 150 propellor. You need to "chill
dude".
Casper
James E. Clark wrote:
>
>How about thinking the potential positive side of it ...
>
>They **MIGHT** be ramping up production and catching up on the backlog. :-)
>
>Also aren't you happier that it turned out in the calendar order it did? :-)
>
>I don't think ANYBODY is getting cold feet over this unit.
>
>James
>... just an opinion
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Digiflight 200 vs Digiflight 100 |
Listers: have decided to install Trutrak in my craft. Can someone help me on
Digiflight 200 vs 100; is the altitude hold "worth" the extra 1500 bucks? Do
you use it? Is it an easy install?
Dave Bockelman
F1 Rocket
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MT Prop Governor cable firewall pass-thru |
I mount the govenor cable as far to the right (facing FW) with the
Jihostroj govenor. Long story short I had to add a 2" extension, available
at ACS from 2-8 inches long.
>
>I followed Van's plans to the T when drilling firewall pass-throughs for
>governor and mixture cables. This is on the RV-7. Anyway, I'm almost
>positive that Van hasn't updated the plans for the new Jihostroj governor
>and bracket, which is a different animal than the old heavy McCauley
>governor.
>
>If I were to do it again, I would locate the prop governor cable
>pass-through as far to the left of the firewall as possible, because it
>really does end up needing to turn sharply and pass parallel to the firewall
>about 1" in front of the firewall. The more left you punch through, the
>more gentle curve you can set up.
>
>Photos here: http://www.rvproject.com/20030722.html
>
>The photos show how sharp a turn the cable has to make (impossible without
>eyeball fittings, I would think) to get where it needs to go.
>
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: MT Prop Governor cable firewall pass-thru
>
>
>>
>> Fellow Listers,
>>
>> I'm looking for any documentation (photos / descriptions) of anyone that
>is using/installed the MT prop governor.
>>
>> I need to find out where the best location for the cable to come through
>the firewall.
>>
>> I'm currently in the process of figuring out where stuff goes on the
>firewall and this is one of the items......
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Ralph Capen
>> Installing the grounding block and don't want it in the way of something
>later!
>>
>>
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re:RV-6 slider windscreen |
DWENSING(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 8/18/03 10:29:44 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> Oldsfolks(at)aol.com writes:
>
> > you should follow Van's plans and put the aluminum clips in
> > place as Stein said.This adds hold-down power.
> >
>
> Does anyone have a picture of these "clips" on there web site?
Here is a photo of the clips I fabricated way back in '98 during the
canopy phase of my RV-6 (scroll about half way down the page):
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/finish2.html
I was not aware that they are now part of the construction drawings.
:-)
Sam Buchanan (Dynon on order)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garry Legare <versadek(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel pant screws? |
Kevin,
Use SS washers and SS screws and you will be happy with them for years.
Sounds like your getting close.
Casper
Kevin Horton wrote:
>
>I need to decide whether to use the Tinneman washers under the
>various screws on the wheel pants, or whether to just have the flat
>head screws sit directly in the fibreglas. It will look better to
>skip the Tinnerman washers, but I'm wondering whether that will cause
>me grief due to the abuse the wheel pants take.
>
>I'm sure there are a few RVs flying with the new two piece wheel
>pants that have the various screws doing directly into the fibreglas.
>How is it working? Would you do it again?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | SFO area navigation |
Listers,
I'm making a long trip next week from my home airport in the Portland
(Oregon) area to Denver, then a couple of stops in SoCal, then up the coast
to the Bay area before heading home. My question is this: I plan to depart
the SoCal area and fly up the coast, turn right over the Golden Gate bridge
and proceed direct to Vacaville for lunch & Fuel at the Nut Tree. From
looking at my VFR TAC that looks possible with the exception of either being
below 1,500' in the Pacifica area or contacting Bay Approach for clearance
at a higher altitude, say 2,000'. Any advice on transiting this area?
Thanks,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 336 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | GPS Only Navigation |
I have kept all my flying to about 150 miles one way while flying rental
trash. Now that my RV-8a will be flying real soon I have been thinking
about long trips. I have a basic VFR panel with no navigational instruments
other than the compass. I have a hand held with VOR capability, and a hand
held GPS. I dont feel comfortable navigating long distance with just the
compass and map and I dont feel comfortable relying on the GPS 100%. The
hand held is basically for radio failure and locking into a VOR when all
else fails. So, I am thinking of buying another GPS for back up,
specifically the Lowerance 500. Is there anything simpler and cheaper than
this approach?
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net> |
See the attached file for details
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Digiflight 200 vs Digiflight 100 |
YES!!!!! Yes, and Yes.
Laird RV-6 SoCal (w/ Altrak)
>
>Listers: have decided to install Trutrak in my craft. Can someone help me on
>Digiflight 200 vs 100; is the altitude hold "worth" the extra 1500 bucks? Do
>you use it? Is it an easy install?
>
>Dave Bockelman
>F1 Rocket
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Miller <rmill2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: SFO area navigation |
Randy
Cutting across the GG bridge higher but between the spires, still below
the Class B is a good route to transition--that way, you won't have to
communicate with the very busy bay area approach. Just keep your head
outside and on a swivel as there are lots of a/c here. I don't believe
there are any TFRs around the GGB but double check just to make sure.
BTW, Half Moon Bay is an excellent stop for lunch (take the trail to
Barbara's Fish Trap)
--- Randy Lervold <randy@rv-8.com> wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> I'm making a long trip next week from my home airport in the Portland
> (Oregon) area to Denver, then a couple of stops in SoCal, then up the
> coast
> to the Bay area before heading home. My question is this: I plan to
> depart
> the SoCal area and fly up the coast, turn right over the Golden Gate
> bridge
> and proceed direct to Vacaville for lunch & Fuel at the Nut Tree. From
> looking at my VFR TAC that looks possible with the exception of either
> being
> below 1,500' in the Pacifica area or contacting Bay Approach for
> clearance
> at a higher altitude, say 2,000'. Any advice on transiting this area?
>
> Thanks,
> Randy Lervold
> RV-8, 336 hrs
>
>
>
>
>
>
====
Rob Miller RV-8 N262RM 135 hours
Bad Cat Aviation--Toy Airplanes and Unique Pilot Gifts
www.badcataviation.com
__________________________________
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: SFO area navigation |
In a message dated 8/19/2003 11:07:30 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
randy@rv-8.com writes:
> Listers,
>
> I'm making a long trip next week from my home airport in the Portland
> (Oregon) area to Denver, then a couple of stops in SoCal, then up the coast
> to the Bay area before heading home. My question is this: I plan to depart
> the SoCal area and fly up the coast, turn right over the Golden Gate bridge
> and proceed direct to Vacaville for lunch &Fuel at the Nut Tree. From
> looking at my VFR TAC that looks possible with the exception of either being
> below 1,500' in the Pacifica area or contacting Bay Approach for clearance
> at a higher altitude, say 2,000'. Any advice on transiting this area?
>
> Thanks,
> Randy Lervold
> RV-8, 336 hrs
>
Hi Randy,
Sounds like a great trip. That 1500' area you see is for departures from
SFO. You don't have to talk to ATC for the rest of the route. I believe it would
be a good idea to get VFR advisories in the area of the bridge and over the
bay. This can be a very busy area. The restaurant at the Nut Tree has been
closed for some time. There are nice one's at Half Moon Bay, Petaluma, Santa
Rosa, Napa, Clear Lake and Woodland. I may have missed a few so check your
flight guide for others and to verify operating hours. Be aware of the California
coastal fog. It can be very persistent this time of year. You might have to
adjust your route to avoided it. You might think about dropping into Hayward
for lunch and fuel.
Cash Copeland
RV6 N46FC
Hayward, Ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS Only Navigation |
For what it's worth...
I've got a Garmin GPS III. Not a GPS III Pilot, just a plain, simple,
GPS III. I use it all the time for flying, and find it to be exactly
what I need. Moving map, splitscreen with speed/alt/ETA/etc. It can be
programmed with 500 waypoints, easily enough to encompass all the
alternates along a cross-country route.
You can pick them up used for well under $200 now, and as a backup I
couldn't recommend anything else... Certainly not when it works so well
as a primary, too.
For slightly more $$$ you can get the GPS III Plus or GPS V, the same
form factor with downloadable maps (both models) and/or higher screen
resolutions (GPS V). I've never wanted for either. For even more $$$,
you could go for the GPS III Pilot, which is a GPS III with the Jeppesen
database installed. Personally i'm happy to look up airport info in a
Flight Supplement (or in the US, in a FlightGuide).
-Rob
Scott Bilinski wrote:
>
> I have kept all my flying to about 150 miles one way while flying rental
> trash. Now that my RV-8a will be flying real soon I have been thinking
> about long trips. I have a basic VFR panel with no navigational instruments
> other than the compass. I have a hand held with VOR capability, and a hand
> held GPS. I dont feel comfortable navigating long distance with just the
> compass and map and I dont feel comfortable relying on the GPS 100%. The
> hand held is basically for radio failure and locking into a VOR when all
> else fails. So, I am thinking of buying another GPS for back up,
> specifically the Lowerance 500. Is there anything simpler and cheaper than
> this approach?
>
>
> Scott Bilinski
> Eng dept 305
> Phone (858) 657-2536
> Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV3 <rv3(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS Only Navigation |
Rob Prior wrote:
>For slightly more $$$ you can get the GPS III Plus or GPS V, the same
>form factor with downloadable maps (both models) and/or higher screen
>resolutions (GPS V). I've never wanted for either. For even more $$$,
>you could go for the GPS III Pilot, which is a GPS III with the Jeppesen
>database installed. Personally i'm happy to look up airport info in a
>Flight Supplement (or in the US, in a FlightGuide).
>
>-Rob
>
Rob,
Since you are happy with your beer budget GPS,
nothing is likely to sway you from your position.
Long ago, I held it myself.
It makes no sense for me to state a very differing
opinion at this time on one so satisfied as you.
Different strokes for different folks.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "McFarland, Randy" <Randy.McFarland(at)novellus.com> |
"'Randy Lervold'"@matronics.com
| Subject: | SFO area navigation |
Randy, I do that transition all the time. Bay (NorCal) Approach has always
been accommodating. Just tell them you want to do a Westside Bay tour about
the time you get into the San Jose area. They'll send you up the Bay
between Highways 101 and 280 until you reach Pacifica or so, then you can
decend to whatever altitude you want to tour the Bay, Alcatraz, Wharf,
Saucilito, etc.. When you're done with sightseeing tell NorCal the direction
you want to depart and they'll clear / vector you outside the B airspace.
They are great to work with.
Randy McFarland
San Jose
7A QB fuse
----------
From: Randy Lervold [SMTP:randy@rv-8.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 19, 2003 11:05 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; vansairforce(at)yahoogroups.com
Subject: RV-List: SFO area navigation
I'm making a long trip next week from my home airport in the
Portland
(Oregon) area to Denver, then a couple of stops in SoCal, then up
the coast
to the Bay area before heading home. My question is this: I plan to
depart
the SoCal area and fly up the coast, turn right over the Golden Gate
bridge
and proceed direct to Vacaville for lunch & Fuel at the Nut Tree.
From
looking at my VFR TAC that looks possible with the exception of
either being
below 1,500' in the Pacifica area or contacting Bay Approach for
clearance
at a higher altitude, say 2,000'. Any advice on transiting this
area?
Thanks,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 336 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: GPS Only Navigation |
So I guess there is no problem using a GPS as your primary navigation as
long as there is a GPS back up. Then if there is a problem fall back to the
hand held for VOR along with chart/compass. Anyone see any flaws in this?
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Digiflight 200 vs Digiflight 100 |
Dave,
I forgot to mention I wrote a short article about installing the
Altrak in the August SoCal Newsletter. You can download it at:
http://www.rvproject.com/SoCalNewsletters/
or:
http://new.metronet.com/~dreeves/vaf.htm
It might help make the decision. Installation would be similar.
Laird
>
>YES!!!!! Yes, and Yes.
>
>Laird RV-6 SoCal (w/ Altrak)
>
>>
>>Listers: have decided to install Trutrak in my craft. Can someone help me on
>>Digiflight 200 vs 100; is the altitude hold "worth" the extra 1500 bucks? Do
>>you use it? Is it an easy install?
>>
>>Dave Bockelman
> >F1 Rocket
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Allison <stevea(at)svpal.org> |
| Subject: | Re: SFO area navigation |
Randy Lervold wrote:
>I'm making a long trip next week from my home airport in the Portland
>(Oregon) area to Denver, then a couple of stops in SoCal, then up the
coast
>to the Bay area before heading home. My question is this: I plan to
depart
>the SoCal area and fly up the coast, turn right over the Golden Gate
bridge
>and proceed direct to Vacaville for lunch & Fuel at the Nut Tree. From
>looking at my VFR TAC that looks possible with the exception of either
being
>below 1,500' in the Pacifica area or contacting Bay Approach for
clearance
>at a higher altitude, say 2,000'. Any advice on transiting this area?
>
Randy,
Go with the higher altitude and clearance through the class B from Norcal
approach (formerly Sierra approach, formerly Bay approach). You can do it
low along the coast, but there are some wildlife areas north of Santa Cruz
(2000 ft minimum if I remember right....check the sectional). Also, you
might want to know about the heavy 747 that just launched from SFO and is
headed through the San Bruno gap at the same time you are just outside or
under the 1500 ft section of the class B. Traffic and workload
permitting, Norcal will give you flight following all the way to Nut Tree
(so you can avoid the C-5 or C-17 in the pattern at Travis AFB).
Steve Allison
San Jose, CA
future RV-6A driver
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS Only Navigation |
RV3 wrote:
> Rob Prior wrote:
>
>>For slightly more $$$ you can get the GPS III Plus or GPS V, the same
>>form factor with downloadable maps (both models) and/or higher screen
>>resolutions (GPS V). I've never wanted for either. For even more $$$,
>>you could go for the GPS III Pilot, which is a GPS III with the Jeppesen
>>database installed. Personally i'm happy to look up airport info in a
>>Flight Supplement (or in the US, in a FlightGuide).
>
> Since you are happy with your beer budget GPS,
> nothing is likely to sway you from your position.
> Long ago, I held it myself.
I agree, at least until I finish my -7 and have some spare money again
to start looking for new gadgets... 8-) I agree that having all of your
data in one electronic instrument is a nice feature, but at this time
the extra $$$ required doesn't make sense for my needs.
> It makes no sense for me to state a very differing
> opinion at this time on one so satisfied as you.
I Hate to disagree with you... But I am but one man, and my opinion is
but one opinion. I'm sure Scott (who asked for opinions) and others
would be interested in hearing your thoughts. I would!
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | GPS Only Navigation |
Scott,
You're asking a comfort level question and only you can answer that. I have
no problem with GPS (handheld or panel) as the primary nav with only the
compass and charts as backup as long as it's decent VFR. The more marginal
it gets, the more backup I want. If I'm going to have backup I'd rather have
a different type of nav system, e.g VOR or Loran rather than another GPS.
It's still a personal comfort level thing and colored by your background. I
did a lot of no radio XC way back but I love all the gadgets now and don't
want to turn back the clock.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
>
> --> <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
> So I guess there is no problem using a GPS as your primary
> navigation as long as there is a GPS back up. Then if there
> is a problem fall back to the hand held for VOR along with
> chart/compass. Anyone see any flaws in this?
>
>
> Scott Bilinski
> Eng dept 305
> Phone (858) 657-2536
> Pager (858) 502-5190
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Biggest GPS Screen Lowest cost. |
Next GPS subject. I want the biggest screen for the lowest cost and am not
to interested in the bells and whistles
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Canadian Inports |
Concur with Rob's comments re; UPS. Key is that you pick up the shipment in
the US yourself and then do your own customs clearance. Probably the best
method for those conveniently located to the US and a border point. Be
warned that UPS customs fees are steep if you have them do the clearance for
you.
I did a few shipments myself this way using Pembina, ND about an hour south
of Winnipeg.
Jim Oke
Wpg., MB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob Prior" <rv7(at)b4.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Canadian Inports
>
> Tedd McHenry wrote:
> >>Stay away from UPS,
> >
> > I agree. It took me 3 weeks to get same-day-shipped parts from Aircraft
Spruce
> > into Canada using UPS. And it was expensive, too.
>
> In contrast, i've used UPS for dozens of shipments and had no trouble at
> all. The difference is that I have all of mine sent to a mail drop just
> south of the border, pick them up myself, and hand-carry them across.
> It lowers the shipping cost, removes the brokerage fee, and I don't have
> to pay Canada Post $5 either. I figure it costs me $5 in gas to go pick
> up a package when I need to.
>
> I hear that the USPS priority services are cheaper than UPS, so maybe
> using USPS and paying Canada Post their $5 handling fee is comparable to
> UPS' rates without the brokerage fee.
>
> -Rob
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | GPS Only Navigation |
Good post. I think I will just keep the single GPS for now add the VOR
antenna to help the (back up) hand held with the reception ,and see what I
get. It should make a big difference because the antenna on the hand held
is a radio antenna not a VOR antenna.
>
>Scott,
>
>You're asking a comfort level question and only you can answer that. I have
>no problem with GPS (handheld or panel) as the primary nav with only the
>compass and charts as backup as long as it's decent VFR. The more marginal
>it gets, the more backup I want. If I'm going to have backup I'd rather have
>a different type of nav system, e.g VOR or Loran rather than another GPS.
>It's still a personal comfort level thing and colored by your background. I
>did a lot of no radio XC way back but I love all the gadgets now and don't
>want to turn back the clock.
>
>Regards,
>Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
>RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
>Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
>
>
>>
>> --> <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>>
>> So I guess there is no problem using a GPS as your primary
>> navigation as long as there is a GPS back up. Then if there
>> is a problem fall back to the hand held for VOR along with
>> chart/compass. Anyone see any flaws in this?
>>
>>
>> Scott Bilinski
>> Eng dept 305
>> Phone (858) 657-2536
>> Pager (858) 502-5190
>>
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS Only Navigation |
My father and I have flown around the country using only a panel
mounted GPS/comm and a handheld radio as backup. You can most always
call somebody to get a radar fix if you REALLY get lost. Or just ask
your RV buddy that your flying with to lead ;-)
You should always think that GPS is going to fail you, and follow
your path with a map in your hand (then again, maybe I should listen
to myself...I forgot the sectional AND WAC chart of the Yellowstone
area last weekend, but at least I had another RV with me).
Dead reckoning isn't a bad skill to practice once in a while either.
Regards,
Laird
RV-6 SoCal
>
>So I guess there is no problem using a GPS as your primary navigation as
>long as there is a GPS back up. Then if there is a problem fall back to the
>hand held for VOR along with chart/compass. Anyone see any flaws in this?
>
>
>Scott Bilinski
>Eng dept 305
>Phone (858) 657-2536
>Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "WALTER KERR" <kerrjb(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Your details |
No files can be attached on the list.
Bernie
----- Original Message -----
From: ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 19, 2003 7:50 AM
Subject: RV-List: Your details
See the attached file for details
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Christopher Stone <rv8iator(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: SFO area navigation |
Randy...
Having grown up there and learned to fly at HWD I usually took the low road below
3000' from Gilroy up the east side of the Bay on the west side of the hills
through the Carquinez straight then follow I-80 to the Nut Tree A/P. The Nut
Tree resturant is no longer.
You can do the same flying up the coast but you will need to drop down to 1500'
around Half Moon Bay, hang a right over the GG bridge, head for Alcatraz then
Napa and then Nut Tree. This time of year fog will be a factor!
Good Luck.
Chris Stone
-----Original Message-----
From: Randy Lervold <randy@rv-8.com>
Subject: RV-List: SFO area navigation
Listers,
I'm making a long trip next week from my home airport in the Portland
(Oregon) area to Denver, then a couple of stops in SoCal, then up the coast
to the Bay area before heading home. My question is this: I plan to depart
the SoCal area and fly up the coast, turn right over the Golden Gate bridge
and proceed direct to Vacaville for lunch & Fuel at the Nut Tree. From
looking at my VFR TAC that looks possible with the exception of either being
below 1,500' in the Pacifica area or contacting Bay Approach for clearance
at a higher altitude, say 2,000'. Any advice on transiting this area?
Thanks,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 336 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | david.keck(at)amd.com |
It's a worm, I've been getting messages in my inbox containing that all day. Different
variations in the subject line. My server strips the worm out for me
though, but be carefull with your own email. I must have been getting 3-4 of
them per hour for a while there. They pretty much look like run of the mill
junk mail.
-----Original Message-----
From: WALTER KERR [mailto:kerrjb(at)msn.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: Your details
No files can be attached on the list.
Bernie
----- Original Message -----
From: ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 19, 2003 7:50 AM
Subject: RV-List: Your details
See the attached file for details
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: SFO area navigation |
JusCash(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>In a message dated 8/19/2003 11:07:30 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
>randy@rv-8.com writes:
>
>
>
>>Listers,
>>
>>I'm making a long trip next week from my home airport in the Portland
>>(Oregon) area to Denver, then a couple of stops in SoCal, then up the coast
>>to the Bay area before heading home. My question is this: I plan to depart
>>the SoCal area and fly up the coast, turn right over the Golden Gate bridge
>>and proceed direct to Vacaville for lunch &Fuel at the Nut Tree. From
>>looking at my VFR TAC that looks possible with the exception of either being
>>below 1,500' in the Pacifica area or contacting Bay Approach for clearance
>>at a higher altitude, say 2,000'. Any advice on transiting this area?
>>
>>Thanks,
>>Randy Lervold
>>RV-8, 336 hrs
>>
>>
>>
>
>Hi Randy,
>Sounds like a great trip. That 1500' area you see is for departures from
>SFO. You don't have to talk to ATC for the rest of the route. I believe it would
>be a good idea to get VFR advisories in the area of the bridge and over the
>bay. This can be a very busy area. The restaurant at the Nut Tree has been
>closed for some time. There are nice one's at Half Moon Bay, Petaluma, Santa
>Rosa, Napa, Clear Lake and Woodland. I may have missed a few so check your
>flight guide for others and to verify operating hours. Be aware of the California
>coastal fog. It can be very persistent this time of year. You might have to
>adjust your route to avoided it. You might think about dropping into Hayward
>for lunch and fuel.
>
>Cash Copeland
>RV6 N46FC
>Hayward, Ca
>
>
>
>
Another thought Randy, is have lunch at Livermore and give our great
RV-List administrator Matt Dralle a call, if he has time he might
come have lunch there also. When I was helping him test the "FuelChec"
formally known as "FuelScan" we had lunch there at the golf club, which
is right
at the airport, nice restaurant.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel pant screws? |
>
>Kevin,
>Use SS washers and SS screws and you will be happy with them for years.
>Sounds like your getting close.
>Casper
>
No, I'm not that close. I've got a depressing long list of stuff to
finish off. I'm just trying to scratch and claw my way through the
fibreglas while it is warm enough to sand outside, and to keep the
garage door open. The wheel pants aren't quite finished, so I
started at them, and realized I needed to make a decision on the
screws.
I want something that looks as good as possible without being a
maintenance headache. Judging by the comments I've gotten on and off
list, the fibreglas doesn't stand up to the screw holes as well as I
hoped. At the moment I'm pondering using truss head screws.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS Only Navigation |
Scott,
I've been using GPS and "Pilotage & Dead Reckoning" in combination for
years... works great in the continental U.S. of A.
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: GPS Only Navigation
<bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
> So I guess there is no problem using a GPS as your primary navigation as
> long as there is a GPS back up. Then if there is a problem fall back to
the
> hand held for VOR along with chart/compass. Anyone see any flaws in this?
>
>
> Scott Bilinski
> Eng dept 305
> Phone (858) 657-2536
> Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | GPS Only Navigation |
I forgot to mention one very important *also... I use Flight Following
religiously! It's great to have someone else to communicate with on long
cross country flights; and if anything happens it's a tremendous resource.
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: C. Rabaut <crabaut(at)coalinga.com>
> Scott,
>
> I've been using GPS and "Pilotage & Dead Reckoning" in combination for
> years... works great in the continental U.S. of A.
>
> Chuck
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, August 19, 2003 3:19 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: GPS Only Navigation
>
>
> <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
> >
> > So I guess there is no problem using a GPS as your primary navigation as
> > long as there is a GPS back up. Then if there is a problem fall back to
> the
> > hand held for VOR along with chart/compass. Anyone see any flaws in
this?
> >
> >
> > Scott Bilinski
> > Eng dept 305
> > Phone (858) 657-2536
> > Pager (858) 502-5190
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | "Degrooving" scotchbrite wheels |
| From: | "" <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com> |
Anybody got a trick for easily removing the grooves that get worn in the 1" and
2" die-grinder mounted scotchbrite wheels (from edge finishing)?
Thanks,
Scott
7A Emp/Wings
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Carb tooling |
Bob,
I haven't seen anyone else reply to your question. It's been a more than a few
years since I've overhauled a Marvel Schebler (now Precision) carb. If you can
clearly see the bushings from the outside of the carb body, you can remove them
doing the following.
Measure the throttle shaft's diameter. Use this measurement to choose a tap. Insert
the tap in one of the throttle shaft bushings. Tap the bushing and remove
the tap. Using an appropriately sized socket, flat washer and bolt, you can
"pull" the bushing out of the carb housing. Repeat the process for the bushing
on the other side.
Carefully press the new bushings into the carb body and ream them to final size.
Unless you are comfortable doing this last part, I'd suggest that you farm
this job out to a machine shop or a machinist friend.
Charlie Kuss
>
>Listers,
>
>I have a MA4-5 carburetor that I plan to use on my 0360-A1A, but I received the
carb used, not tagged. I consider it an unknown and have decided to rebuild/overhaul
it. I bought the Precision Service Manual and the Consolidated overhaul
kit from AC$. In looking at the manual I see the need for tooling, especially
to pull the throttle shaft bushings and install new ones. Does anyone out
there have a set of tooling they would be willing to loan (or rent). Tool
P/N's are M-94, M-105, M-105A, M-122, M-516. Thanks for any help.
>
>Bob Gordon
>Dover DE
>RV6 finishing up on FWF
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Biggest GPS Screen Lowest cost. |
KMD-150 Bendix-King
Ed Holyoke
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Bilinski
> Sent: Tuesday, August 19, 2003 2:27 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Biggest GPS Screen Lowest cost.
>
> wireless.com>
>
> Next GPS subject. I want the biggest screen for the lowest cost and am
not
> to interested in the bells and whistles
>
>
> Scott Bilinski
> Eng dept 305
> Phone (858) 657-2536
> Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: "Degrooving" scotchbrite wheels |
Get an old (or cheap) hasp file and use it to true up the wheel (i.e. turn on
the wheel and hold the file on it to file it down. I say "old" because
although it wears the wheel down, it also does a number on smoothing out the
file....
-Mike Kraus <-- made one wheel last an entire RV-4 project!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: "Degrooving" scotchbrite wheels |
True them on your bench grinder mounted 6" ScotchBrite wheels
Charlie Kuss
>
>
>Anybody got a trick for easily removing the grooves that get worn in the 1" and
2" die-grinder mounted scotchbrite wheels (from edge finishing)?
>
>Thanks,
>Scott
>7A Emp/Wings
>
>
>Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
>The most personalized portal on the Web!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garry Legare <versadek(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Biggest GPS Screen Lowest cost. |
Scott,
Bendix/King Skymap IIIC virtually the same as the KMD-150 for a
thousand bucks less, and it's portable. Plus there are panel mount kits
available, that's how I have it mounted. The brightest sun won't wash it
out either. I've also got a Garmin 196 installed but I almost never look
at it and the IIIC is easier to use.
Casper
Scott Bilinski wrote:
>
>Next GPS subject. I want the biggest screen for the lowest cost and am not
>to interested in the bells and whistles
>
>
>Scott Bilinski
>Eng dept 305
>Phone (858) 657-2536
>Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | "Degrooving" scotchbrite wheels |
The easiest way is just to keep them and make more grooves, saving them for
edge finishing or toss 'em! If you must smooth them out, or sometimes I
like to make them "cone shaped", then simply turn on your belt sander and
run the wheel against it. You can make any shape you want! Works well if
you need to "slim it down", etc..
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
P.S. I'll be stocking these in another couple weeks REAL cheap!
http://www.steinair.com/store.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com
Subject: RV-List: "Degrooving" scotchbrite wheels
Anybody got a trick for easily removing the grooves that get worn in the 1"
and 2" die-grinder mounted scotchbrite wheels (from edge finishing)?
Thanks,
Scott
7A Emp/Wings
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: SFO area navigation |
>
>I'm making a long trip next week from my home airport in the Portland
>(Oregon) area to Denver, then a couple of stops in SoCal, then up the coast
>to the Bay area before heading home.
The best place to eat is Santa Rosa. Busy airspace, make it easy on
yourself and others by getting flight following. Maybe you'll want the bay
tour.
Or go high over it all.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <ktlkrn(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | New latch system for Tip-ups |
For those of you building Tip-ups check out the new latch system developed by Robbie Attaway. www.attawayair.com
I got to see the latch on his new "six" under construction and it is very nice.
The latch is much beefier but very light with very positive feel. It is also
flush fit to the exterior skin.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | issue riveting firewall hinge |
PRE-PUNCHED strikes again! I think I might have built myself into a corner
here, although I'm sure there's a simple solution I just can't think of
since it's getting late and I'm tired.
I just drilled the side hinge to my firewall (lower cowl hinge), but I don't
see how I'm going to be able to squeeze the shop head on the bottom 5 to 7
or so rivets. Here's a photo illustrating the issue:
http://rvproject.com/images/2003/20030819_hinge_riveting_issue.jpg
The problem is that the engine is already installed, the plane's on gear,
etc., and there's no way a squeezer and set will fit between the vertical
engine mount side tube and the firewall flange.
Now...of course if this WASN'T a pre-punched kit, I could have just drilled
the rivet holes in the "empty" slots of the hinge and used a no-hole
thin-nose yoke to squeeze 'em. But my fuselage skin already had the holes
in it, so what am I to do?
I really don't want to use blind rivets in there, and I don't think I can
buck 'em, even with a tiny/funky bucking bar. And I'm *definitely* not
taking the engine & mount off.
I can't be the first person to have had this issue...what do you suggest?
Thanks in advance,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: SFO area navigation |
Wow, so many great routes and alternatives... thanks to everyone for all the
great advice! Half Moon Bay would definitely have better food, but Vacaville
(Nut Tree) has cheaper fuel by over $.50/gal. Livermore was also suggested.
Decisions, decisions. I have no particular preference for the Nut Tree, it
was just about the right distance between SoCal and home to stop for
fuel/lunch, I'll reconsider that. The "Westside Bay Tour" several of you
described sounds really interesting and like something I need to do. I'd
rather work with ATC when transiting such a busy area anyway.
Thanks guys!
Randy Lervold
> Randy
> Cutting across the GG bridge higher but between the spires, still below
> the Class B is a good route to transition--that way, you won't have to
> communicate with the very busy bay area approach. Just keep your head
> outside and on a swivel as there are lots of a/c here. I don't believe
> there are any TFRs around the GGB but double check just to make sure.
> BTW, Half Moon Bay is an excellent stop for lunch (take the trail to
> Barbara's Fish Trap)
> Rob Miller RV-8 N262RM 135 hours
> Bad Cat Aviation--Toy Airplanes and Unique Pilot Gifts
> www.badcataviation.com
> --- Randy Lervold <randy@rv-8.com> wrote:
> >
> > Listers,
> >
> > I'm making a long trip next week from my home airport in the Portland
> > (Oregon) area to Denver, then a couple of stops in SoCal, then up the
> > coast
> > to the Bay area before heading home. My question is this: I plan to
> > depart
> > the SoCal area and fly up the coast, turn right over the Golden Gate
> > bridge
> > and proceed direct to Vacaville for lunch & Fuel at the Nut Tree. From
> > looking at my VFR TAC that looks possible with the exception of either
> > being
> > below 1,500' in the Pacifica area or contacting Bay Approach for
> > clearance
> > at a higher altitude, say 2,000'. Any advice on transiting this area?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Randy Lervold
> > RV-8, 336 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Biggest GPS Screen Lowest cost. |
Or...for a Grand less and with the same screen, software, and basic
functionality you can go with a SkymapIIIc. I have one mounted in my panel
and love it.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6, Minneapolis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ed Holyoke
Subject: RE: RV-List: Biggest GPS Screen Lowest cost.
KMD-150 Bendix-King
Ed Holyoke
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Bilinski
> Sent: Tuesday, August 19, 2003 2:27 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Biggest GPS Screen Lowest cost.
>
> wireless.com>
>
> Next GPS subject. I want the biggest screen for the lowest cost and am
not
> to interested in the bells and whistles
>
>
> Scott Bilinski
> Eng dept 305
> Phone (858) 657-2536
> Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New latch system for Tip-ups |
And this extra weight is needed why?
Using my stock latch close to 15 years now.
Jerry
ktlkrn(at)cox.net wrote:
>
>For those of you building Tip-ups check out the new latch system developed by Robbie Attaway. www.attawayair.com
>
>I got to see the latch on his new "six" under construction and it is very nice.
The latch is much beefier but very light with very positive feel. It is also
flush fit to the exterior skin.
>
>Darwin N. Barrie
>Chandler AZ
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Acrylic plexiglass vs. aluminum - long but important. |
Prolog:
It took "Gumption" (a.k.a. "big ones"), but I cut and drilled my 7 tip-up
canopy to the frame.
All went well, no cracks and no blood.
On the 7 tip-up, the plexi is fastened to the frame with #6 screws all
around. No rivets, except for the leading edge of the canopy which gets
glassed to the aluminum skin (to form a smoth transition).
Today:
I was going to make the canopy skirts, which on the 7 tip-up are riveted to
the frame with 426AD3 rivets, but atttaches with #6 screws where the
plexiglass is sandwiched between the internal frame and the skirts. (Is that
clear ?).
To do this, the manual instructs you to hold the canopy and the frame
together, with 3 of the #6 csnk screws on each side, so that the skirt can
be flush with the frame, with no clecos in the way.
The symptom:
Misalignment of the holes, between the plexi and the aluminum frame was
such, that I couldn't insert more than one screw in each side.
I waited untill the garage was the same temperature it was as when I drilled
the holes, and they aligned perfectly again. All screws went through the
aluminum and the canopy with no problem.
Back to the drawing board:
Well, to the internet realy. I searched the archives, and found references
to the over-size hole that is recommended for the plexiglass.
References were made to 1/8" oversize on a ~1/8" hole - could that be ?!
As you may know, the plexi is match-drilled with the frame, but then the
frame is enlarged to #27 (0.144") and the manual says to enlarge the holes
in the plexi to 5/32" (that's 0.1563", I know you don't do decimals here,
but bear with me, what is a #27 in fractions ?!).
But is the difference enough ?
Obviously, there is an issue of thermal expansion/contraction coefficients
here.
From the web:
Acrylic Plexi expands linearly .000041 units of length per deg. F.
Aluminum has a linear expansion coefficient of only .0000129 !!
So, per 40 degrees Fahrenheit, which is the difference between a 90 deg day
and a 50 deg night, per 30 inches, which is more or less the length of the
tipup part, the Plexi will change in length 0.0492", while the aluminum will
do 0.1548".
If you hold one edge of the canopy as a pivot point, or fixed to the frame
(that would be the forward edge, where they are epoxied and glassed
together), the difference is 0.03372", (or if you divide it by 2, it's
0.01686" on each side) at the farthest screw from your pivot point.
A little more math shows that the difference between your #27 drill and the
5/32" hole in the plexi amounts to only 0.0061" on each side of the last
hole!
That is simply not enough.
A little reverse engineering:
And this is for a 40 deg F difference.
For 100 deg F diff, not unlikely if you fly from the desert on a hot day
into a cool night with sub-zero temps, you will need a hole larger than
7/32" in the plexi (actually, larger than 0.2283", but less than a 1/4"), to
make sure the edges of the last hole (farthest from the front) don't meet
the screw.
That is a at least a whole 1/16" more than the manual tells you.
Nitpicking ? Sure, if $1000 in a new canopy is peanuts for you.
What you realy want:
Is all the expansion of the canopy linear? Ofcourse not. and maybe the
dimensions are less thany 30" of linear distance.
The fact is, you need the plexi to "float" relative to the aluminum frame.
This "floatation" is necesary if you don't want the screws to touch the
edges of the holes in the plexi with any considerable force. Since most of
us heat the plexi before we drill it, we have a good fit for hot weather,
but not for cold conditions, and most of the cracks I read of, were due to
cold weather. (See J.Johansons polar flight for one extreme example).
Epilog:
I am going to use the unibit to enlarge the holes to 1/4 inch, practicing on
some scrap plexi first.
I don't think this will leave much of a countersink in the plexi, and I'll
use very short pieces of rubber tube as "bushings" around the screws. That
is a tip from the archives - they recommend RC fuel tubes.
Comments welcome !!! don't hesitate to double check my math - I used XL, and
you know there are bugs there. Also, maybe I have the wrong linear expansion
coefficients.
Amit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Will & Lynda Allen" <linenwool(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | how to reach the last ramaing rivets on the elevator? |
OK, I give up...... I can't reach them with my squeezer and after spending
an hour grinding down a bucking bar to fit nicely, it's not heavy enough to
buck the rivet and now that I'm done throwing things around in the garage, I
thought I'd come in and ask.....
How do I squeeze the last rivets that attach the elevator skin to the
trailing edge of the 703 and 709 ribs????
-Will Allen
North Bend, WA
RV8 (desperately trying to finish emp so I can open my wing boxes!!!!!!!
Arrrrgh)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Biggest GPS Screen Lowest cost. |
Lowrance had a mockup of their newest at Oshkosh (Airmap 1000 I
believe.) The screen was huge, about 5 inch diagonal (B & W), price was
not set but was supposed to be less than the Garmin 196 ($850 at last
glance.) I would have bought one had they had them, but they are not
shipping until October.
Jeff Point
Scott Bilinski wrote:
>
>Next GPS subject. I want the biggest screen for the lowest cost and am not
>to interested in the bells and whistles
>
>
>Scott Bilinski
>Eng dept 305
>Phone (858) 657-2536
>Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard V. Reynolds" <rvreynolds(at)macs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: "Degrooving" scotchbrite wheels |
Use a wood 2x4 or other suitable size. Never tried it on a 1-2 wheel but it works
on a 6".
Richard Reynolds
tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com wrote:
>
> Anybody got a trick for easily removing the grooves that get worn in the 1" and
2" die-grinder mounted scotchbrite wheels (from edge finishing)?
>
> Thanks,
> Scott
> 7A Emp/Wings
>
> Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
> The most personalized portal on the Web!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard V. Reynolds" <rvreynolds(at)macs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: issue riveting firewall hinge |
Remove the engine mount from the firewall and get on with it! That is wht it is
"bolted on".
PS Is there anyhing else you forgot to do while the mount is off??
Richard Reynolds
Dan Checkoway wrote:
>
> PRE-PUNCHED strikes again! I think I might have built myself into a corner
> here, although I'm sure there's a simple solution I just can't think of
> since it's getting late and I'm tired.
>
> I just drilled the side hinge to my firewall (lower cowl hinge), but I don't
> see how I'm going to be able to squeeze the shop head on the bottom 5 to 7
> or so rivets. Here's a photo illustrating the issue:
>
> http://rvproject.com/images/2003/20030819_hinge_riveting_issue.jpg
>
> The problem is that the engine is already installed, the plane's on gear,
> etc., and there's no way a squeezer and set will fit between the vertical
> engine mount side tube and the firewall flange.
>
> Now...of course if this WASN'T a pre-punched kit, I could have just drilled
> the rivet holes in the "empty" slots of the hinge and used a no-hole
> thin-nose yoke to squeeze 'em. But my fuselage skin already had the holes
> in it, so what am I to do?
>
> I really don't want to use blind rivets in there, and I don't think I can
> buck 'em, even with a tiny/funky bucking bar. And I'm *definitely* not
> taking the engine & mount off.
>
> I can't be the first person to have had this issue...what do you suggest?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | how to reach the last ramaing rivets on the elevator? |
I used pop rivets.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
2003 - The year of flight!
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Will & Lynda Allen [mailto:linenwool(at)comcast.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2003 3:02 AM
> To: RV LIST; RV8 List
> Subject: RV-List: how to reach the last ramaing rivets on the
> elevator?
>
>
> -->
>
> OK, I give up...... I can't reach them with my squeezer and
> after spending an hour grinding down a bucking bar to fit
> nicely, it's not heavy enough to buck the rivet and now that
> I'm done throwing things around in the garage, I thought I'd
> come in and ask.....
>
> How do I squeeze the last rivets that attach the elevator
> skin to the trailing edge of the 703 and 709 ribs????
>
> -Will Allen
> North Bend, WA
> RV8 (desperately trying to finish emp so I can open my wing
> boxes!!!!!!!
> Arrrrgh)
>
>
> =========
> Matronics Forums.
> =========
> List members.
> =========
> =========
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: issue riveting firewall hinge |
Dan,
I would use CherryMax rivets here. These are high-dollar (50 cents ea.)
structural rivets that will not be discernable after you paint the airplane.
Having said that, I don't think it's a big deal to remove your mount from
the fuse slightly to squeeze these rivets, especially if you have the castle
nuts on the engine side. I would take your hoist, lift the airplane, slide
a support under the fuselage. Then I would put the hoist on the engine,
remove the six castle nuts on the mount bolts, and ease your engine/mount
combo forward slightly using the hoist until you can get your squeezer in
there. Not a big deal. But not something you want to do late at night when
you're tired! It will have an entirely different perspective in the
morning.
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 QB (Building)
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: RV-List: issue riveting firewall hinge
>
> PRE-PUNCHED strikes again! I think I might have built myself into a
corner
> here, although I'm sure there's a simple solution I just can't think of
> since it's getting late and I'm tired.
>
> I just drilled the side hinge to my firewall (lower cowl hinge), but I
don't
> see how I'm going to be able to squeeze the shop head on the bottom 5 to 7
> or so rivets. Here's a photo illustrating the issue:
>
> http://rvproject.com/images/2003/20030819_hinge_riveting_issue.jpg
>
> The problem is that the engine is already installed, the plane's on gear,
> etc., and there's no way a squeezer and set will fit between the vertical
> engine mount side tube and the firewall flange.
>
> Now...of course if this WASN'T a pre-punched kit, I could have just
drilled
> the rivet holes in the "empty" slots of the hinge and used a no-hole
> thin-nose yoke to squeeze 'em. But my fuselage skin already had the holes
> in it, so what am I to do?
>
> I really don't want to use blind rivets in there, and I don't think I can
> buck 'em, even with a tiny/funky bucking bar. And I'm *definitely* not
> taking the engine & mount off.
>
> I can't be the first person to have had this issue...what do you suggest?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
| Subject: | Wheel pant screws? |
Kevin,
Following Casper's thinking, I used #8 SS truss head screws on my spinner.
I used #6 SS flush head screws and SS tinnerman washers on my wheel pants.
At 225 hours both seem to work equally well; no problems.
Ken Harrill
RV-6
-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin Horton [mailto:khorto1537(at)rogers.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wheel pant screws?
>
>Kevin,
>Use SS washers and SS screws and you will be happy with them for years.
>Sounds like your getting close.
>Casper
>
No, I'm not that close. I've got a depressing long list of stuff to
finish off. I'm just trying to scratch and claw my way through the
fibreglas while it is warm enough to sand outside, and to keep the
garage door open. The wheel pants aren't quite finished, so I
started at them, and realized I needed to make a decision on the
screws.
I want something that looks as good as possible without being a
maintenance headache. Judging by the comments I've gotten on and off
list, the fibreglas doesn't stand up to the screw holes as well as I
hoped. At the moment I'm pondering using truss head screws.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Digiflight 200 vs. Digiflight 100 |
| From: | Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net> |
Dave just doesn't want to admit he ever flew an airplane with an autopilot
but I know better.
(bombardment pilot) Denis Walsh
>
> Listers: have decided to install Trutrak in my craft. Can someone help me on
>
> Digiflight 200 vs 100; is the altitude hold "worth" the extra 1500 bucks? Do
>
> you use it? Is it an easy install?
>
> Dave Bockelman
> F1 Rocket
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: how to reach the last ramaing rivets on the |
elevator?
Dont waste alot of time trying to figure out how to get to those rivets and
others soon to be. Call Van's and order the pop rivet thats are the same
size as the rivets your trying to squeeze. Actually the head is the same
size the body is .015 larger I think. I ordered 100 of them and have no
regrets.
>
>OK, I give up...... I can't reach them with my squeezer and after spending
>an hour grinding down a bucking bar to fit nicely, it's not heavy enough to
>buck the rivet and now that I'm done throwing things around in the garage, I
>thought I'd come in and ask.....
>
>How do I squeeze the last rivets that attach the elevator skin to the
>trailing edge of the 703 and 709 ribs????
>
>-Will Allen
>North Bend, WA
>RV8 (desperately trying to finish emp so I can open my wing boxes!!!!!!!
>Arrrrgh)
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: how to reach the last ramaing rivets on the elevator? |
Will;
The only real solution to is to keep experimenting with different bucking
bars until you find something that fits inside the rib to buck those
difficult rivets. One alternative bucking bar that I used was made from a
"splitting wedge" sold at Home Depot and similar places to split wood logs
for firewood. Heavy, strong, and the right general shape to fit is small
places, it will need to be ground and polished reasonably smooth. The extra
mass compared to most bucking bars should be enough to do those last few
rivets.
As others have said, the alternative is to use pop rivets in these locations
and move on to other things more worthy of your time. Many months from now,
a trace of filler when you are getting ready to paint will disguise the
evidence and probably nobody but yourself will ever notice the difference.
Please be forewarned these will not be the last "tough to access" rivets on
your project!
Cheers,
Jim Oke
Wpg., MB
RV-6A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Will & Lynda Allen" <linenwool(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: how to reach the last ramaing rivets on the elevator?
>
> OK, I give up...... I can't reach them with my squeezer and after
spending
> an hour grinding down a bucking bar to fit nicely, it's not heavy enough
to
> buck the rivet and now that I'm done throwing things around in the garage,
I
> thought I'd come in and ask.....
>
> How do I squeeze the last rivets that attach the elevator skin to the
> trailing edge of the 703 and 709 ribs????
>
> -Will Allen
> North Bend, WA
> RV8 (desperately trying to finish emp so I can open my wing boxes!!!!!!!
> Arrrrgh)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <3Crv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
See the attached file for details
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: how to reach the last ramaing rivets on the |
elevator?
>
>How do I squeeze the last rivets that attach the elevator skin to the
>trailing edge of the 703 and 709 ribs????
I knew I was going to need it, so I bought a 4 inch thin-nosed
yoke for my squeazer.
http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/prodinfo.asp?number=SNYT45&variation=&aitem=11&mitem=13
This slipped right in without a problem. I use this 4" yoke for
riveting more than any other.
The real pain in the butt are the last four outboard rivets on the
rear spar on the left elevator (the one with the trim tab.) I made an
S-shaped bucking bar from a 2 ft chunk of 1/4" x 1" steel bar. I felt like
I had passed the blacksmith final exam when I was finished bending,
grinding, and shaping this bucking bar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Acrylic plexiglass vs. aluminum - long but important. |
> Epilog:
> I am going to use the unibit to enlarge the holes to 1/4 inch, practicing
on
> some scrap plexi first.
> I don't think this will leave much of a countersink in the plexi, and I'll
> use very short pieces of rubber tube as "bushings" around the screws. That
> is a tip from the archives - they recommend RC fuel tubes.
>
> Comments welcome !!! don't hesitate to double check my math - I used XL,
and
> you know there are bugs there. Also, maybe I have the wrong linear
expansion
> coefficients.
Amit,
The "large hole with the rubber bushing" concept sounds good. In fact if I'm
not mistaken this is the way TeamRocket has you do their canopy attachment.
Based on the creaking sounds my canopy & frame make as they're heating up or
cooling off just sitting in the hangar I wish I had looked into such a
method.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 336 hrs
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <PASSPAT(at)aol.com> |
Please see the attached file for details.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <3Cjsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Re: My details |
See the attached file for details
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
| Subject: | Re: how to reach the last ramaing rivets on the elevator? |
I made my own tapered bucking bar. Details are at
http://www.vansairforce.org/projects/mchenryt/tips/
under "Riveting in Tight Places."
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
Casper,
I did as you suggested and went back and read your post (developing a
long-winded apology along the way :-) )
But ... I was responding to your question of whether people were getting
cold feet. I understood that yours had arrived early, whcih I thought was aa
"good thing".
All I was **TRYING** to say is that if they are shipping EARLY now, it MAY
be for a POSITIVE (good) reason in that they MAY be catching up etc.
Don't think I implied that YOU were getting cold feet. Why would you, you
have yours early. You should have warm fuzzies. :-)
James
... chillin'
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Garry Legare
> Sent: Tuesday, August 19, 2003 1:09 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Upgrade to IFR
>
>
> James,
> Geez guy read my post again, I said are people getting cold feet . I
> didn't say I was getting cold feet. When Julie asked if I wanted to move
> up the line I would have just said NO. In over 25 years of experimental
> aircraft building and flying I've done more than my fair share of "Beta
> Testing", most recently the Whirlwind 150 propellor. You need to "chill
> dude".
> Casper
>
> James E. Clark wrote:
>
>
> >
> >How about thinking the potential positive side of it ...
> >
> >They **MIGHT** be ramping up production and catching up on the
> backlog. :-)
> >
> >Also aren't you happier that it turned out in the calendar order
> it did? :-)
> >
> >I don't think ANYBODY is getting cold feet over this unit.
> >
> >James
> >... just an opinion
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
Bernie (and others),
This has the **LOOK AND FEEL** of a virus.
I have received several of these from different sources ... some WITH the
attachment (not via the RV_List).
I have NOT opened any as it feels awfully suspicious. You might want to be
careful.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of WALTER KERR
> Sent: Tuesday, August 19, 2003 6:14 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Your details
>
>
> No files can be attached on the list.
>
> Bernie
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Tuesday, August 19, 2003 7:50 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Your details
>
>
> See the attached file for details
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel Wiesel" <dan(at)interlinkrecruiting.com> |
| Subject: | RV6A for sale (structurally complete) |
Dear Listers,
I have decided to sell my RV6A project. Unfortunately, I no longer have the
time to devote to the project. My project is a QuickBuild Kit that is
Structurally Complete. It needs only avionics, upholstery, paint and
finishing.
I have bought all the best equipment from Van's and others for it, I never
intended to sell it.
New 360 engine, new prop, Sam James cowl, plenum, speed mods etc, Infinity
grips, B&C alternator, and the list goes on.
I am in Florida, but the plane is easily transportable since everything is
still removable with ease.
Please go to www.aso.com under the experimental category for a complete list
and picture if you are interested, and give me a call or email at:
Dan Wiesel
954-467-6650
dan(at)interlinkrecruiting.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WPAerial(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: "Degrooving" scotchbrite wheels |
I used the word rust because i couldn't spell electrolysis. which is a
chemical change produced by an electric current. which is a form of corrosion
i
guess.
jerry wilken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <bert6(at)mybluelight.com> |
See the attached file for details
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wicked screensaver |
Please see the attached file for details.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <aflyer(at)direcway.com> |
Please see the attached file for details.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <BBreckenridge(at)att.net> |
Please see the attached file for details.
________________________________________________________________________________
custsvc(at)aircraftspruce.com
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: customer service |
I have read horror stories about Aircraft Spruce on the RV List in the past. About
a year ago, one of the RV List members had a problem with ACS and called the
president of the company, Jim Irwin. He reported back to the list that Mr.
Irwin took care of the problem and went "above and beyond" for him. I mention
this, because it swayed me to do business with ACS recently.
I used their web site to order all the parts. I had a copy of their 2002/2003
catalog as well. I was pleasantly surprised to find that most of the items I ordered
had gone DOWN in price compared to the catalog. All the items I ordered
were in stock. Ordering on line let me know that before the order was complete.
I received several email communications to let me know that ACS had received
and processed my order. The order arrived 3 days after it was placed. Everything
was there and "as advertised". Please count me as a satisfied customer. I'll
be placing another order with them this weekend.
FYI I price shopped for all this stuff. ACS has the hands down best prices on
AN hydraulic fittings. The "auto racing" places don't even come close. I have
ordered parts from ACS's competitor Wicks in the past. I've always been happy
with them as well. I placed an order with Wicks the same day I placed my ACS order.
I had numerous problems using Wicks web site to order. I finally gave up
and had to call them to place the order. So ACS scores a #1 with their web site
as well. I hope this all gets straightened out for Mr. Seemann. I suspect that
the problem is with the shipper or customs.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8A cockpit systems stuff. I'm finally to the part of this project where the
real fun starts! :-)
Boca Raton, Florida, USA
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by:
>
>Dear listers
>
>The thread about Sky-Tec and their customer support, made me think of this forum
as a lever to Aircraft Spruce.
>I have one month ago ordered some parts from Aircraft Spruce (ASS) via e-mail,
and today 33 days later, I have seen none of them.
>I live in Denmark, Europe and I accept and expect some delay. The same day as
I ordered the goods, I got an automatic confirmation of order.
>Three days later came an automatic note of shipment. Since then I have sent 4-5
emails to "info(at)aircraftspruce.com" but with only one useless reply, re-stating
the goods was shipped.
>
>Does any of you listers know of a way to communicate (by e-mail preferably) to
the management at ASS, as their "info" address doesn't seem to be backed for
anything other than orders. At least complains are never responded to. I only
know that single e-mail address into ASS, and that is of no good use to me.
>
>
>Best regards
>Villi H. Seemann
>Sen. Eng. BSEE
>Telephony Team
>Infrastructure, Network
>Phone (+45) 3333 2101
>Cell ph. (+45) 2220 7690
>FAX (+45) 3333 1130
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Worm attack on members address book |
NON RV Related
I have to assume that the five or six emails a day that I have been getting
from the RV List lately
that contain only the line:
****************
Please see the attached file for details.
****************
are because the member's computer has been attacked by the worm that very
one is talking about.
I know the List removes any attached files.
Hopefully, you haven't gotten any from me (I rather to lucky than good).
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA 92307
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <stein(at)steinair.com> |
Please see the attached file for details.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: "Degrooving" scotchbrite wheels |
I thought electrolysis is what you did when you had hair removed?! :D
Galvanic potential isn't that great between 2000 series Al and carbon steel.
IMVHO, it's not much of a threat. Only slightly greater between pure Al
and cast iron and carbon steel.
The water is a must for galvanic corrosion (electrolysis). It, with a salt
or other impurity, would be the electrolyte.
Bryan Jones -8
Pearland, Texas
MSN 8: Get 6 months for $9.95/month.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <RVer273sb(at)aol.com> |
Please see the attached file for details.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: customer service |
I bought a VM1000 from them and then realized that if I had bought it from
Van's I would have saved on the taxes. I asked them if they would refund
the difference AND THEY DID!!!!! I order from them all the time, order
today get it tomorrow, (I live close) great service.
>
>I have read horror stories about Aircraft Spruce on the RV List in the past.
>About a year ago, one of the RV List members had a problem with ACS and
>called the president of the company, Jim Irwin. He reported back to the list
>that Mr. Irwin took care of the problem and went "above and beyond" for him.
>I mention this, because it swayed me to do business with ACS recently.
> I used their web site to order all the parts. I had a copy of their
>2002/2003 catalog as well. I was pleasantly surprised to find that most of
>the items I ordered had gone DOWN in price compared to the catalog. All the
>items I ordered were in stock. Ordering on line let me know that before the
>order was complete. I received several email communications to let me know
>that ACS had received and processed my order. The order arrived 3 days after
>it was placed. Everything was there and "as advertised". Please count me as
>a satisfied customer. I'll be placing another order with them this weekend.
>FYI I price shopped for all this stuff. ACS has the hands down best prices
>on AN hydraulic fittings. The "auto racing" places don't even come close. I
>have ordered parts from ACS's competitor Wicks in the past. I've always been
>happy with them as well. I placed an order with Wicks the same day I placed
>my ACS order. I had numerous problems using Wicks web site to order. I
>finally gave up and had to call them to place the order. So ACS scores a #1
>with their web site as well. I hope this all gets straightened out for Mr.
>Seemann. I suspect that the problem is with the shipper or customs.
>Charlie Kuss
>RV-8A cockpit systems stuff. I'm finally to the part of this project where
>the real fun starts! :-)
>Boca Raton, Florida, USA
>
>
>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by:
>>
>>Dear listers
>>
>>The thread about Sky-Tec and their customer support, made me think of this
>forum as a lever to Aircraft Spruce.
>>I have one month ago ordered some parts from Aircraft Spruce (ASS) via
>e-mail, and today 33 days later, I have seen none of them.
>>I live in Denmark, Europe and I accept and expect some delay. The same day
>as I ordered the goods, I got an automatic confirmation of order.
>>Three days later came an automatic note of shipment. Since then I have sent
>4-5 emails to "info(at)aircraftspruce.com" but with only one useless reply,
>re-stating the goods was shipped.
>>
>>Does any of you listers know of a way to communicate (by e-mail preferably)
>to the management at ASS, as their "info" address doesn't seem to be backed
>for anything other than orders. At least complains are never responded to. I
>only know that single e-mail address into ASS, and that is of no good use to
>me.
>>
>>
>>Best regards
>>Villi H. Seemann
>>Sen. Eng. BSEE
>>Telephony Team
>>Infrastructure, Network
>>Phone (+45) 3333 2101
>>Cell ph. (+45) 2220 7690
>>FAX (+45) 3333 1130
>>
>>
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
Please see the attached file for details.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <neilmcleod(at)direcway.com> |
Please see the attached file for details.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
| Subject: | Evaluating Used Tools |
I have an opportunity to buy some second-hand sheet metal tools from a former
employer. The company has asked me to come up with an estimate of the tools'
values, so that we can settle on a price (and so that they can justify said
price to the bean counters, I presume). I have no idea how to do that. I have
an idea what I'm willing to pay, but are there any accepted rules of thumb for
such a situation? I recall hearing many years ago that a value of X dollars
per pound was sometimes used to estimate the value of industrial equipment, but
I don't know if that's just heresay, and I have no idea what X is.
The tools are a 24-inch bending brake, a beverly shear, a Whitney punch (with
some dies), and a small arbor press.
Tedd McHenry
Van's Air Force
Western Canada Wing
tedd(at)vansairforce.org
www.vansairforce.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rsalnutt(at)inreach.com> |
Please see the attached file for details.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <chrisjgood(at)lycos.com> |
Please see the attached file for details.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rdcompton(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Your application |
Please see the attached file for details.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "van Bladeren, Ron" <rwv(at)nwnatural.com> |
custsvc(at)aircraftspruce.com
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: customer service |
Beware! The SAE JIC/AN 37 degree Aeroquip fittings that you get from those
"auto racing" stores are not the same as true AN fittings like the ones that
come with the pre-made hoses from VAN's. They look the same and are even
anodized the same color but the inside bore is MUCH smaller then the
aviation version.
-----Original Message-----
From: Charlie Kuss [mailto:chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net]
custsvc(at)aircraftspruce.com
Subject: RV-List: Re: AeroElectric-List: customer service
I have read horror stories about Aircraft Spruce on the RV List in the past.
About a year ago, one of the RV List members had a problem with ACS and
called the president of the company, Jim Irwin. He reported back to the list
that Mr. Irwin took care of the problem and went "above and beyond" for him.
I mention this, because it swayed me to do business with ACS recently.
I used their web site to order all the parts. I had a copy of their
2002/2003 catalog as well. I was pleasantly surprised to find that most of
the items I ordered had gone DOWN in price compared to the catalog. All the
items I ordered were in stock. Ordering on line let me know that before the
order was complete. I received several email communications to let me know
that ACS had received and processed my order. The order arrived 3 days after
it was placed. Everything was there and "as advertised". Please count me as
a satisfied customer. I'll be placing another order with them this weekend.
FYI I price shopped for all this stuff. ACS has the hands down best prices
on AN hydraulic fittings. The "auto racing" places don't even come close. I
have ordered parts from ACS's competitor Wicks in the past. I've always been
happy with them as well. I placed an order with Wicks the same day I placed
my ACS order. I had numerous problems using Wicks web site to order. I
finally gave up and had to call them to place the order. So ACS scores a #1
with their web site as well. I hope this all gets straightened out for Mr.
Seemann. I suspect that the problem is with the shipper or customs.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8A cockpit systems stuff. I'm finally to the part of this project where
the real fun starts! :-)
Boca Raton, Florida, USA
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by:
>
>Dear listers
>
>The thread about Sky-Tec and their customer support, made me think of this
forum as a lever to Aircraft Spruce.
>I have one month ago ordered some parts from Aircraft Spruce (ASS) via
e-mail, and today 33 days later, I have seen none of them.
>I live in Denmark, Europe and I accept and expect some delay. The same day
as I ordered the goods, I got an automatic confirmation of order.
>Three days later came an automatic note of shipment. Since then I have sent
4-5 emails to "info(at)aircraftspruce.com" but with only one useless reply,
re-stating the goods was shipped.
>
>Does any of you listers know of a way to communicate (by e-mail preferably)
to the management at ASS, as their "info" address doesn't seem to be backed
for anything other than orders. At least complains are never responded to. I
only know that single e-mail address into ASS, and that is of no good use to
me.
>
>
>Best regards
>Villi H. Seemann
>Sen. Eng. BSEE
>Telephony Team
>Infrastructure, Network
>Phone (+45) 3333 2101
>Cell ph. (+45) 2220 7690
>FAX (+45) 3333 1130
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <eregensburg(at)triad.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wicked screensaver |
Please see the attached file for details.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nick N" <rvator(at)nicknaf.com> |
| Subject: | Worm attack on members address book |
I've notice the same thing. I try to do a decent job of protecting my
systems, yet somehow 2 worms got in. I used a program call SysClean to
clean it back up.
If you want a copy, go to Google and do a search or you can Download it
from me directly.
http://www.nicknaf.com/files/sysClean.zip
Its freeware from the manufacture (sorry, don't remember the name off
hand) so there should NOT be a problem with distribution.
Nick
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tom Gummo
Subject: RV-List: Worm attack on members address book
NON RV Related
I have to assume that the five or six emails a day that I have been
getting
from the RV List lately
that contain only the line:
****************
Please see the attached file for details.
****************
are because the member's computer has been attacked by the worm that
very
one is talking about.
I know the List removes any attached files.
Hopefully, you haven't gotten any from me (I rather to lucky than good).
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA 92307
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Worm attack on members address book |
FYI! I have gotten several also with the virus embedded somehow, but my
good old trusty Norton Anti-Virus got them. Glenn in Arizona
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo(at)verizon.net>
Subject: RV-List: Worm attack on members address book
>
> NON RV Related
>
> I have to assume that the five or six emails a day that I have been
getting
> from the RV List lately
> that contain only the line:
>
> ****************
> Please see the attached file for details.
> ****************
>
> are because the member's computer has been attacked by the worm that very
> one is talking about.
> I know the List removes any attached files.
>
> Hopefully, you haven't gotten any from me (I rather to lucky than good).
>
> Tom Gummo
> Apple Valley, CA 92307
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RGray67968(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: issue riveting firewall hinge |
Dan,
I read your post THOROUGHLY so I know what your looking for. I felt the same
as you regarding use of blind rivets and NOT wanting to remove the
engine/mount as it required a helping hand to hold back the mount bolts.......so:
I made a bucking bar just for this application out of a 5 or 6 inch long hunk
of steel about 3/4" X 3/4". I made a cutout or groove in one end so it would
'hook' around the back or the engine mount. It worked great and saved me a lot
of grief....plus I felt better about the rivets I used. I'll be more than
happy to mail it to ya' if you have trouble making one. Just give me a yell and
it's on the way!
Rick in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm
> PRE-PUNCHED strikes again! I think I might have built myself into a corner
> here, although I'm sure there's a simple solution I just can't think of
> since it's getting late and I'm tired.
>
> I just drilled the side hinge to my firewall (lower cowl hinge), but I don't
> see how I'm going to be able to squeeze the shop head on the bottom 5 to 7
> or so rivets. Here's a photo illustrating the issue:
>
> http://rvproject.com/images/2003/20030819_hinge_riveting_issue.jpg
>
> The problem is that the engine is already installed, the plane's on gear,
> etc., and there's no way a squeezer and set will fit between the vertical
> engine mount side tube and the firewall flange.
>
> Now...of course if this WASN'T a pre-punched kit, I could have just drilled
> the rivet holes in the "empty" slots of the hinge and used a no-hole
> thin-nose yoke to squeeze 'em. But my fuselage skin already had the holes
> in it, so what am I to do?
>
> I really don't want to use blind rivets in there, and I don't think I can
> buck 'em, even with a tiny/funky bucking bar. And I'm *definitely* not
> taking the engine &mount off.
>
> I can't be the first person to have had this issue...what do you suggest?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Acrylic plexiglass vs. aluminum - long but important - correction |
Just for the archives, I re-checked the numbers and I have one typo:
So, per 40 degrees Fahrenheit, which is the difference between a 90 deg day
and a 50 deg night, per 30 inches, which is more or less the length of the
tipup part, the Plexi will change in length 0.0492", while the aluminum will
do 0.1548".
----------------
should read:
"......the Plexi will change in length 0.0492", while the aluminum will
do 0.01548".
-----------------
There is another zero there.
Amit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Reuterskiold" <mtnflyr(at)attglobal.net> |
| Subject: | GRT and cutting thermocouple wires |
Listers
Has anyone who has the GRT EIS cut/spliced the CHT/EGT thermocouple lead wires
to pass them through the firewall with a blukhead connector? I have read the
archives on the pros and cons of splicing the polarized thermocouple wires,
but would like to hear results from someone who has done it. All of my other
wires with the exception of main power are going through the bulkhead connector
and I would like to run the CHT/EGT the same way but not at the expense of accuracy
or reliability.
Thanks for any insight.
John Reuterskiold
RV7 N7VK (reserved) (wiring and plumbing)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Biggest GPS Screen Lowest cost. |
Who's got the best price on the Skymap?
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Garry Legare" <versadek(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Biggest GPS Screen Lowest cost.
>
> Scott,
> Bendix/King Skymap IIIC virtually the same as the KMD-150 for a
> thousand bucks less, and it's portable. Plus there are panel mount kits
> available, that's how I have it mounted. The brightest sun won't wash it
> out either. I've also got a Garmin 196 installed but I almost never look
> at it and the IIIC is easier to use.
> Casper
>
> Scott Bilinski wrote:
>
<bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
> >
> >Next GPS subject. I want the biggest screen for the lowest cost and am
not
> >to interested in the bells and whistles
> >
> >
> >Scott Bilinski
> >Eng dept 305
> >Phone (858) 657-2536
> >Pager (858) 502-5190
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
Scott,
There is nothing wrong with a backup GPS, but I wouldn't "fall back" on a
chart and compass. I'd rather have the chart out from the outset.
When my wife and I fly XC, we constantly cross check the sectional against
the GPS. We also drop breadcrumbs on the chart with a time stamp. If the
GPS poops out, we always know where we are on the chart. Now granted, this
may be overkill, but it is also fun, forces you to look outside and helps to
keem my wife from getting bored. She gets excited when she says, "hey thats
KXXX" and I look down at the moving map and she is correct".
I also use her to keep me sharp. As long as we aren't doing flight
following, and are in cruise flight, she has my permission to pull the
throttle and anounce "you just lost your engine, where will you land" It
really gets your attention in an RV4 when all you can see is the throttle
suddenly move (rear seat linkage) Laura also has my OK once we are in
cruise to turn off the GPS and ask me to fly to a specific airport on our
route of flight without any electronic navigation.
Remember, any idiot can "navigate" with a moving map GPS. We should strive
to be better navigators than that.
Don Mei
p.s. Interesting thing happened to my GPS 195 yesterday. While flying,
for no apparent reason, it suddenly showed snow on the screen, then
performed a hard reset. It had to reinitialize itsself and all my
preferences, waypoints, etc were lost. No big deal. Biggest hassle was it
started pestering me with those damned "airspace" notifications.
Law that forbid ownership of arms disarm only those who are neither
inclined, nor determined to commit crimes. Such laws make things worse for
the assaulted and better for the assailants. They serve rather to encourage
than to prevent homicides, for an unarmed man may be attacked with greater
confidence than an armed man. --Thomas Jefferson
Help protect your PC: Get a free online virus scan at McAfee.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garry Legare <versadek(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Biggest GPS Screen Lowest cost. |
Call around and be sure to tell them your shopping. Try to talk to the
owner or manager, as the GPS business has gotten very competitive. Two
years ago I paid about $1600. on a special deal. If your going to
homecoming Pacific Coast is on the field and has had a display at Vans
in the past.
Good hunting,
Casper
Wayne R. Couture wrote:
>
>Who's got the best price on the Skymap?
>
>Wayne
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Garry Legare" <versadek(at)earthlink.net>
>To: ;
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Biggest GPS Screen Lowest cost.
>
>
>
>
>>
>>Scott,
>>Bendix/King Skymap IIIC virtually the same as the KMD-150 for a
>>thousand bucks less, and it's portable. Plus there are panel mount kits
>>available, that's how I have it mounted. The brightest sun won't wash it
>>out either. I've also got a Garmin 196 installed but I almost never look
>>at it and the IIIC is easier to use.
>>Casper
>>
>>Scott Bilinski wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
><bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
>
>>>Next GPS subject. I want the biggest screen for the lowest cost and am
>>>
>>>
>not
>
>
>>>to interested in the bells and whistles
>>>
>>>
>>>Scott Bilinski
>>>Eng dept 305
>>>Phone (858) 657-2536
>>>Pager (858) 502-5190
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob W M Shipley" <rob(at)robsglass.com> |
| Subject: | Acrylic plexiglass vs. aluminum -Canopy expansion |
Amit Dagan expressed concern over the stress from expansion over the temperature
range the canopies will see in normal use.
I have been considering gluing the canopy to the frame with an automotive urethane
adhesive .. This reportedly used with great success by a couple of builders
in South Africa, (I think).
Has anyone else on the list any experience or observations on this.
FYI the urethane adhesives of this type have moderate flexibility and great strength
- 500 psi or more. Primers for use with Plexi are available and I don't
believe that interaction with the acrylic is an issue.
Rob
Rob W M Shipley
RV9A N919RV (res) Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
| Subject: | Biggest GPS Screen Lowest cost. |
Wayne,
I know alot of people mentioned the SkyMap IIIC vs the KMD 150, but note
that the KMD 150 can drive the autopilot directly. I am not sure if that is
the case with the IIIC.
In the two adjacent RV6's we have, one has the 150 and the other the IIIC.
I personally think the 150 is brighter.
The 150 has the ability to display Stormscope input (that might not be of
interest to you) and it has a "CDI" display mode. SO if you are really into
using the VOR-type displays, you can "goto" KXYZ and fly the needle.
The database card is right out front on the 150.
It is also easier to get a better rack fit with the 150 if that matters.
Just a few extra points if you are thinking along these lines.
If I had to choose between the two, I would choose the 150. (Guess which one
I fly behind).
**BUT** they are BOTH fine units.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Wayne R. Couture
> Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2003 10:13 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Biggest GPS Screen Lowest cost.
>
>
> <commando@cox-internet.com>
>
> Who's got the best price on the Skymap?
>
> Wayne
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Garry Legare" <versadek(at)earthlink.net>
> To: ;
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Biggest GPS Screen Lowest cost.
>
>
> >
> > Scott,
> > Bendix/King Skymap IIIC virtually the same as the KMD-150 for a
> > thousand bucks less, and it's portable. Plus there are panel mount kits
> > available, that's how I have it mounted. The brightest sun won't wash it
> > out either. I've also got a Garmin 196 installed but I almost never look
> > at it and the IIIC is easier to use.
> > Casper
> >
> > Scott Bilinski wrote:
> >
> <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
> > >
> > >Next GPS subject. I want the biggest screen for the lowest cost and am
> not
> > >to interested in the bells and whistles
> > >
> > >
> > >Scott Bilinski
> > >Eng dept 305
> > >Phone (858) 657-2536
> > >Pager (858) 502-5190
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris W <chrisw3(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Electrolysis was "Degrooving" scotchbrite wheels |
Scott Bilinski wrote:
> Its called electrolysis. Basically the combining of two dissimilar metals.
> The most common electrolysis seen in the past and still today is a
> aluminium cylinder head on a cast iron block. I have seen (240Z) head
> gaskets fail due to the aluminium getting eaten away like you would not
> beleive. Adding water to the mix does not help the situation.
I have some personal experience with that, although not directly aviation
related. I had a car with a steel bumper that was mounted to an aluminum sub
frame which was bolted to the steel frame of the car. Well one day someone hit
that bumper knocking it off. You could take the aluminum sub frame and crumble
it to dust in your hand. I always heard it refereed to as galvanic corrosion but
I guess either term works.
--
Chris Woodhouse
3147 SW 127th St.
Oklahoma City, OK 73170
405-691-5206
chrisw(at)programmer.net
N35 20.492'
W97 34.342'
"They that can give up essential liberty
to obtain a little temporary safety
deserve neither liberty nor safety."
-- Benjamin Franklin, 1759 Historical Review of Pennsylvania
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Brooks" <kenbrooks(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Sales Tax on your RV-3,4,6,6A,7,7A,8,8A,9,9A,10 |
Dear -listers,
Sorry to have to dredge up such a morbid subject (again), but I have
some new info if you live/fly/register your project in Illinois. Not
all states are this punitive, but it might pay to check this out in your
state to verify. . .
Any purchases a builder makes from out of state from retailers (this
includes Van's kits, Cleaveland seats, Aerosport Power engines, etc.)
for which you don't pay sales tax are taxable in Illinois at 6.25%, and
if you don't pay this sales tax from day 1 and assume like I did that
you'll have to cough it up upon completion and registration of your
finished project, think again!
In a nutshell, here's what the Illinois State Use Tax law demands:
Every time you buy qualifying items from out of state retailers, compute
the sales tax. If this tax is less than $600.00 ($9600 purchase value)
in one calendar year, you may pay it annually. Once the computed tax
for a large item (engine) exceeds $600--, you have 30 days to send the
Dept. of Revenue a check and form ST-44. (See http://www.iltax.com )
Failure to do so makes you liable for penalties and interest!!
Illinois builders: The state is offering a "Penalty and Interest
Amnesty" program from October 1, 2003 to November 15, 2003. I was just
told yesterday on the phone by a Mr. Mark Russell at the Dept. of
Revenue that after this amnesty period, the state tax investigators (?)
will be "pursuing builders who are in non-compliance vigorously."
Don't ask me how you might be able to avoid paying state sales tax in
Illinois and possibly other states. I don't have time to research, but
wanted to give IL builders a head's up on this penalty and interest
amnesty thing in case they want to participate. If you do, simply add a
cover letter to your ST-44 form that states "I wish to participate in
the amnesty program that will waive penalties and interest for state
sales tax." As ASSININE as this may sound, Mr. Russell made it clear to
me that I should DEFINITELY NOT SEND THIS LETTER AND CHECK IN UNTIL
OCTOBER 1st, AS THE AMNESTY WOULD NOT BE IN EFFECT UNTIL THEN! Go
figure.
At least I have over a month to figure out where I'm going to come up
with $3,070.50! Tax on my beautiful new ASP IO-360-B1B6 is over $1300!
<8-(
Sure wish I had known about this in '97!
Ken Brooks
RV-8QB in progress - starting on canopy
N1903P reserved
How fortunate for governments that the people do not think -- Adolf
Hitler
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: issue riveting firewall hinge |
August 06, 2003 - August 21, 2003
RV-Archive.digest.vol-od