RV-Archive.digest.vol-oe
August 21, 2003 - September 03, 2003
>
>Dan,
>I read your post THOROUGHLY so I know what your looking for. I felt the same
>as you regarding use of blind rivets
What is it that makes builders (nothing personal, Rick) so hate blind (pop)
rivets? They are aircraft parts, used on half a million dollar Bonanzas
and probably Lear jets. My feeling is that
* it is better to have a flying RV with pop rivets than an
abandoned project that simply took too long and was too frustrating.
* it is better to have a properly installed pop than a badly
installed solid
* a screw with nut or sheet metal screw while fine substitute for
solid is heavier than a pop.
Show me why I am wrong. (I'm flying, done three trips to OSH, pop rivets,
duct tape and all.)
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Mack" <don(at)dmack.net> |
There is a free download from McAfee you can run to scan and clean drives.
It will clean the drive only, NOT protect against further infections.
http://vil.nai.com/vil/stinger/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garry Legare <versadek(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Biggest GPS Screen Lowest cost. |
The IIIC has exactly the same screen as the 150 and it will also drive
the auto pilot. It will however not do dishes.
Casper
James E. Clark wrote:
>
>Wayne,
>
>I know alot of people mentioned the SkyMap IIIC vs the KMD 150, but note
>that the KMD 150 can drive the autopilot directly. I am not sure if that is
>the case with the IIIC.
>
>In the two adjacent RV6's we have, one has the 150 and the other the IIIC.
>
>I personally think the 150 is brighter.
>
>The 150 has the ability to display Stormscope input (that might not be of
>interest to you) and it has a "CDI" display mode. SO if you are really into
>using the VOR-type displays, you can "goto" KXYZ and fly the needle.
>
>The database card is right out front on the 150.
>
>It is also easier to get a better rack fit with the 150 if that matters.
>
>Just a few extra points if you are thinking along these lines.
>
>If I had to choose between the two, I would choose the 150. (Guess which one
>I fly behind).
>
>**BUT** they are BOTH fine units.
>
>
>James
>
>
>
>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Wayne R. Couture
>>Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2003 10:13 PM
>>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Biggest GPS Screen Lowest cost.
>>
>>
>><commando@cox-internet.com>
>>
>>Who's got the best price on the Skymap?
>>
>>Wayne
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Garry Legare" <versadek(at)earthlink.net>
>>To: ;
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Biggest GPS Screen Lowest cost.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>Scott,
>>>Bendix/King Skymap IIIC virtually the same as the KMD-150 for a
>>>thousand bucks less, and it's portable. Plus there are panel mount kits
>>>available, that's how I have it mounted. The brightest sun won't wash it
>>>out either. I've also got a Garmin 196 installed but I almost never look
>>>at it and the IIIC is easier to use.
>>>Casper
>>>
>>>Scott Bilinski wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>><bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>>
>>
>>>>Next GPS subject. I want the biggest screen for the lowest cost and am
>>>>
>>>>
>>not
>>
>>
>>>>to interested in the bells and whistles
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Scott Bilinski
>>>>Eng dept 305
>>>>Phone (858) 657-2536
>>>>Pager (858) 502-5190
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Miller <rmill2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Shameless Ad: Bad Cat Aviation Opens--20% Off everything for |
RVers
HelloAs a frequent rv-list participant and builder/flyer of an RV-8 I am proud to announce the opening of Bad Cat Aviation--Toy Airplanes and Unique Pilot Gifts. All rv-listers receive an additional 20% off all merchandise (even sale items) by typing in coupon code: "rvator" during checkout on our secure server. Please come and visit us at:www.badcataviation.comThanks
Rob Miller RV-8 N262RM 135 hours
Bad Cat Aviation--Toy Airplanes and Unique Pilot Gifts
www.badcataviation.com
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Biggest GPS Screen Lowest cost. |
Thanks for the input but cost is a big factor right now and an autopilot is
out of the question.
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Biggest GPS Screen Lowest cost.
>
> Wayne,
>
> I know alot of people mentioned the SkyMap IIIC vs the KMD 150, but note
> that the KMD 150 can drive the autopilot directly. I am not sure if that
is
> the case with the IIIC.
>
> In the two adjacent RV6's we have, one has the 150 and the other the IIIC.
>
> I personally think the 150 is brighter.
>
> The 150 has the ability to display Stormscope input (that might not be of
> interest to you) and it has a "CDI" display mode. SO if you are really
into
> using the VOR-type displays, you can "goto" KXYZ and fly the needle.
>
> The database card is right out front on the 150.
>
> It is also easier to get a better rack fit with the 150 if that matters.
>
> Just a few extra points if you are thinking along these lines.
>
> If I had to choose between the two, I would choose the 150. (Guess which
one
> I fly behind).
>
> **BUT** they are BOTH fine units.
>
>
> James
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Wayne R. Couture
> > Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2003 10:13 PM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Biggest GPS Screen Lowest cost.
> >
> >
> > <commando@cox-internet.com>
> >
> > Who's got the best price on the Skymap?
> >
> > Wayne
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Garry Legare" <versadek(at)earthlink.net>
> > To: ;
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Biggest GPS Screen Lowest cost.
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Scott,
> > > Bendix/King Skymap IIIC virtually the same as the KMD-150 for a
> > > thousand bucks less, and it's portable. Plus there are panel mount
kits
> > > available, that's how I have it mounted. The brightest sun won't wash
it
> > > out either. I've also got a Garmin 196 installed but I almost never
look
> > > at it and the IIIC is easier to use.
> > > Casper
> > >
> > > Scott Bilinski wrote:
> > >
> > <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
> > > >
> > > >Next GPS subject. I want the biggest screen for the lowest cost and
am
> > not
> > > >to interested in the bells and whistles
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >Scott Bilinski
> > > >Eng dept 305
> > > >Phone (858) 657-2536
> > > >Pager (858) 502-5190
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Velvick <tomvelvick(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | AZ RV builders class |
I am forwarding this email posted on the AZ RV-list for anyone that is
interested.
Regards,
Tom
Hi All, If anyone in the PHX area is interested in learning the techniques
of building an RV, I may have the answer. I have tried this with a few
people with very positive results. We get together at my hanger at DVT and
spend a couple of half days together. We will spend some time learning the
basics of riveting, practice riveting, then on to building the horizontal
stabilizer. You will learn the how to drill, deburr, dimple countersink,
machine countersink and actually build the stabilizer yourself using all
the necessary tools and leave with a beautifully completed project. My name
is Larry Schneider 602-770-7561 lschneider39(at)cox.net. If interested give a
call, I'll give you the tour and furnish some references. There is of
course a fee for this, but well worth it. Thanks, Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
Listers,
I am going to mount a GPS antenna under the cowl onto a small shelf fastened to
the firewall. I do not have a GPS as yet. I need to know the dimensions of
your average panel mount GPS antenna in height, length and width to insure that
the shelf is fabricated to an acceptable size. Thanks in advance for any suggestions
as to the proper surface area of a generic GPS antenna shelf mounted
under the cowl.
Rick Galati RV-6A FWF
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Daniels <jwdanie(at)comcast.net> |
> I need to know the dimensions of your average panel mount GPS antenna
> in height, length and width to insure that the shelf is fabricated to
> an acceptable size. Thanks in advance for any suggestions as to the
> proper surface area of a generic GPS antenna shelf mounted under the
> cowl.
>
> Rick Galati RV-6A FWF
Hi Rick,
My UPSAT GX65 came with an A-33 antenna. Here is a link to the
antenna installation manual with a good drawing of the dimensions and
hole pattern.
http://www.upsat.com/dwnlds/accdoc/A33_Install_560-0949-01a_web.pdf
Jim Daniels
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Brooks" <kenbrooks(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Great Product for Clamping Top Skin |
I found an inexpensive, very effective product if you are drilling your
top skin. It's a Pony brand band clamp from Menards (or others) that
has a 15' orange nylon band and a black ratchet mechanism. The strap is
wrapped around the entire fuselage and a piece of cardboard was taped to
the side skin where the ratchet sits. Costs $9.50 and after using it,
we couldn't believe how smooth and straight our skin turned out. They
cinch down nice and tight along the rivet lines. We left just enough
room next to the band for the cleco. I bought two, one for the
instrument panel line and one for the middle row. For the firewall, it
was easy enough just to use rubber-tipped lever lock clamps since you
can see everything nicely lined up. It's the right tool for the job!
Ken Brooks
RV-8QB in progress
N1903P reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Will & Lynda Allen" <linenwool(at)comcast.net> |
Doug,
Does the Dynon replace your DG? And it so, does it have a heading bug to
drive a heading hold on your autopilot? I've been thinking about this Dynon
unit myself for IFR but would only find it feasible if I could replace
Vacuum AI and DG with it and then have the other 4std instruments (electric
TC, Airspeed, Alt, and VSI) for failure backup.
Do you use a TC or does your Navaid replace that sufficiently to be a backup
for bank?
Thanks,
-Will Allen
North Bend, WA
RV8
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Doug Rozendaal
Subject: RV-List: Dynon IFR
I now have about 16 hours on my Dynon and flew my first IFR with it this
weekend. I was going to Minot AFB this weekend for Northern Neighbors Day
(airshow) and Friday morning the Metar was 1/2 mile Vis and clear. The
perfect day for a first IFR trip because the haze went all the way to 8000
ft, you could see the ground, barely, but absolutely no horizon. I took off
and hand flew the airplane for sometime and then turned on the Navaid.
Aside from my previous concern about the Dynon sucking you into the cockpit,
I now have another concern, The display is so precise, that I fear I will
become an EFIS cripple. Meaning I may not be able to fly steam gauges
anymore. I can so accurately keep the wings level, the heading almost never
wanders. Same true with pitch, The VSI behaves more like an IVSI and you
can find a pitch that will yield a certain rate of climb or decent and hold
that pitch perfectly and the Rate of climb (or decent) never wanders. What
a device.
By the time I got into ND the haze was burning off, and I started to notice
the device was indicating a slight ~3 deg roll to the left. I centered the
ball and checked my wingtips with the horizon and no doubt about it, it was
indicating a slight bank. I thought, well here we go, this thing won't hold
a calibration...... I tried slipping for a while and see if I could have
any effect on it, but when I centered up, it was still off about 3 deg. I
was not too concerned, I used to fly a 402 frieghter that had a horizon that
was off, about the same and I flew it that way for several years. I was the
airboss for the airshow, so I had bigger fish to fry and did not worry about
it. On Sunday, I hung around Minot with Warren Pietsch and we swapped
airplanes, and I flew his 180 hp clipped wing Taylorcraft. What a hoot!!!
He flew the RV and he really liked it as well.
Last night I left his place and climbing to altitude I noticed the Dynon
still had its bank error, so I decided I would have to send it in. I
leveled at 11,500 turned on the Navaid and settled in for a 440 nm trip.
(2+58 min, 22.5 gallons against a 10+ kt headwind, I love this airplane!)
Shortly after level off, I looked at the Dynon, and it was dead on..... Go
figure???? Anyone else seen any wandering on the Dynon? I will email them
and see what they say.
I am still thrilled with the Dynon and still very willing to fly IFR based
on the backups that I have on board.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "D. Jones" <dljinia(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Oil filter mount gasket |
I've just removed the oil filter mount in order to put
a 90 degree fitting for the oil cooler line. 45
degree pointed at 7:00 o'clock doesn't work with the
new constant speed prop govenors the 90 at about a
1:30 does. Different subject.
The question: I'm ready to put the mount back in
place. I was careful as I could be with taking the
mount off. The gasket is not torn but there is a
slight layer in some spots on the mount where the
gasket didn't stay completely on the engine side.
Hard to describe but think you get the drift... Should
I uses some type of sealant here? replace the gasket?
don't worry about it?
Tried to find the answer in the archives but my search
was leading me no where fast.
Thanks in advance.
Doug -7A finish
__________________________________
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil filter mount gasket |
Doug I would replace the gasket as it has been compressed and has lost a lot
of it's ability to seal.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
----- Original Message -----
From: "D. Jones" <dljinia(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Oil filter mount gasket
>
> I've just removed the oil filter mount in order to put
> a 90 degree fitting for the oil cooler line. 45
> degree pointed at 7:00 o'clock doesn't work with the
> new constant speed prop govenors the 90 at about a
> 1:30 does. Different subject.
>
> The question: I'm ready to put the mount back in
> place. I was careful as I could be with taking the
> mount off. The gasket is not torn but there is a
> slight layer in some spots on the mount where the
> gasket didn't stay completely on the engine side.
> Hard to describe but think you get the drift... Should
> I uses some type of sealant here? replace the gasket?
> don't worry about it?
>
> Tried to find the answer in the archives but my search
> was leading me no where fast.
>
> Thanks in advance.
> Doug -7A finish
>
> __________________________________
> http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
From Previous post:
If my GPS fails . . I'll declare an emergency ??!!!???
With all due respect; are you kidding. You do what you need to do to
conclude your flight safely. Knowing your limits shows good judgement and
that is the most important thing.
But I'd suggest you practice without a GPS once in a while.
I can not begin to imagine a situation where my GPS failing (in VFR
conditions) would even be concern for not continuing on to my orignal
destination.
I'm not ex-military, I don't fly for the airlines, heck, I've only got 600
hrs since I got my ticket 3 1/2 yrs ago, so I'm no expert.
But, and I believe this very strongly. If you need a GPS to find your way
home in VFR conditions, you shouldn't be in the air.
Now, using a GPS to find an airport in all that urban clutter at night is
another matter.
My Garmin 195 gets turned on at the beginning of every flight, you never
know when it can help save the day. But most of the time when I fly
locally, there is a post it note over the display. Keeps me from getting
lazy. Its also useful for keeping track of where I am when I'm in NY or
Boston's Bravo's.
Sorry if I sound preachy, but I hate to see otherwise good pilots become so
GPS dependant.
Don Mei
Law that forbid ownership of arms disarm only those who are neither
inclined, nor determined to commit crimes. Such laws make things worse for
the assaulted and better for the assailants. They serve rather to encourage
than to prevent homicides, for an unarmed man may be attacked with greater
confidence than an armed man. --Thomas Jefferson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neil Henderson" <neil.mo51(at)btopenworld.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sales Tax on your RV-3,4,6,6A,7,7A,8,8A,9,9A,10 |
Think your selves lucky. We in England pay tax at 17.5%.
Neil Henderson RV9-A nr Aylesbury UK
ORIGINAL MESSAGE
Dear -listers,
Sorry to have to dredge up such a morbid subject (again), but I have
some new info if you live/fly/register your project in Illinois. Not
all states are this punitive, but it might pay to check this out in your
state to verify. . .
Any purchases a builder makes from out of state from retailers (this
includes Van's kits, Cleaveland seats, Aerosport Power engines, etc.)
for which you don't pay sales tax are taxable in Illinois at 6.25%, and
if you don't pay this sales tax from day 1 and assume like I did that
you'll have to cough it up upon completion and registration of your
finished project, think again!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
If you can't make the LOE event in October, consider the 3rd Annual Coastal Georgia
Fall Fly In at Eagle Neck Airpark on October 18.
Eagle Neck (1GA0) is located half way between Savannah and St. Simons Island on
the Georgia coast. All aircraft types are welcome.
We have 3 flying and two RV projects on the field. Email rsipp(at)earthlink.net for
details and RSVP.
Dick Sipp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca> |
| Subject: | Canadian Heads Up! |
Neil Henderson wrote:
<"Think your selves lucky. We in England pay tax at 17.5%."
http://www.bank-banque-canada.ca/en/exchange-look.htm
Envision Credit Union here in Langley B.C. has been adding an undisclosed 2
to 3 % to their Mastercard exchange rate.
Example - during a recent visit I made purchases at Vans for $94.62 US and
put it on my Mastercard for convenience. Mastercard U.S. billed my local
Credit Union Mastercard $131.71 CAD at the going exchange rate. Envision
Credit Union bumped my charge up to $135.78 CAD. Had I known about this
undisclosed charge I could easily have paid for these items with cash
obtained at a better exchange rate.
I have purchased a lot of U.S. goods on Mastercard because I believed that
due to their large volume of exchange transactions that they had a good
exchange rate, and yes the Mastercard exchange rate, Company to Company is
better than the Bank of Canada exchange rate, at least in this one example I
checked. Where the robbery occured is the hidden Foreign Currency Surcharge
added by my local credit union. Not all financial institutions do this, so
be aware, it affects the cost of your RV!
George McNutt
Langley, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Brame <charleyb(at)earthlink.net> |
Rick,
The GPS Antenna supplied with my UPS SL-60 measures 3.5" x 2.25" x .75"
not counting the connector. The antenna sits flush on its mounting
surface with the connector on the bottom of the antenna and extending
through a hole in the mounting surface. The measurements above are for
the mounted antenna.
Suggestion: Go to the nearest model hobby shop and buy a large model
airplane engine mount. The mount is plastic fiber and weighs about an
ounce. Cost is probably less than $10. Install the mount on your
firewall and bolt a piece of aluminum sheet (.032 or as desired) where
the model engine would be installed. The aluminum sheet should be just
wide enough to cover the model engine mounts and can be of whatever
length you need to extend the antenna away from your firewall. The GPS
antenna can be installed on the aluminum sheet. Quick, easy, lightweight
and looks professional.
Charlie
RV-6A N11CB
San Antonio
------------------------------------------
> From: Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com>
> Subject: RV-List: GPS Antenna
>
>
> Listers,
>
> I am going to mount a GPS antenna under the cowl onto a small shelf fastened
to
> the firewall. I do not have a GPS as yet. I need to know the dimensions of
> your average panel mount GPS antenna in height, length and width to insure that
> the shelf is fabricated to an acceptable size. Thanks in advance for any suggestions
> as to the proper surface area of a generic GPS antenna shelf mounted
> under the cowl.
>
> Rick Galati RV-6A FWF
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Related, but different -
I was planning on using the stock ant that came with the Garmin 196 (any
reason why I shouldn't?), and mounting it on the glare shield. Only
problem is the plug at the end is rather large, maybe 1/2" in diameter.
So I'll have to drill a big hole in the glare shield to pass it through.
Any way to avoid this? Disassemble? Splice? Something else?
Thanks,
-
Larry Bowen, RV-8 systems
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
2003 - The year of flight!
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Charles Brame [mailto:charleyb(at)earthlink.net]
> Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2003 1:16 PM
> To: Rick Galati; RV List
> Subject: RV-List: GPS Antenna
>
>
>
> Rick,
>
> The GPS Antenna supplied with my UPS SL-60 measures 3.5" x
> 2.25" x .75" not counting the connector. The antenna sits
> flush on its mounting surface with the connector on the
> bottom of the antenna and extending through a hole in the
> mounting surface. The measurements above are for the mounted antenna.
>
> Suggestion: Go to the nearest model hobby shop and buy a
> large model airplane engine mount. The mount is plastic fiber
> and weighs about an ounce. Cost is probably less than $10.
> Install the mount on your firewall and bolt a piece of
> aluminum sheet (.032 or as desired) where the model engine
> would be installed. The aluminum sheet should be just wide
> enough to cover the model engine mounts and can be of
> whatever length you need to extend the antenna away from your
> firewall. The GPS antenna can be installed on the aluminum
> sheet. Quick, easy, lightweight and looks professional.
>
> Charlie
> RV-6A N11CB
> San Antonio
>
> ------------------------------------------
>
> > From: Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com>
> > Subject: RV-List: GPS Antenna
> >
> >
> > Listers,
> >
> > I am going to mount a GPS antenna under the cowl onto a small shelf
> > fastened to the firewall. I do not have a GPS as yet. I
> need to know
> > the dimensions of your average panel mount GPS antenna in height,
> > length and width to insure that the shelf is fabricated to an
> > acceptable size. Thanks in advance for any suggestions as to the
> > proper surface area of a generic GPS antenna shelf mounted
> under the cowl.
> >
> > Rick Galati RV-6A FWF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Canadian Heads Up! |
>
>
>Neil Henderson wrote:
><"Think your selves lucky. We in England pay tax at 17.5%."
>
>
>Neil, thanks for the reality check. Of course my point was not so much
>grousing about the fact that we are taxed on purchases, but that many
>builders like myself were not aware of what our different states' laws
>are regarding collection of same. I know you blokes also have to pay
>upwards of $3.50 U.S. per gallon for petrol. You need an old fashioned
>taxpayer uprising (revolt) over there! Ooops! They took all your guns
>away too, didn't they.
>-----------------------------snip-------------------------
>
>
>Well here in Canada, (British Columbia) we only pay 14.5% tax, they took all
>the guns away, but only from the honest people, and at just over $4 per
>gallon gasoline is under its Kyoto Accord target price of $5. So all is
>well, or so I thought. Then guess what, yesterday I discovered that my
>Credit Union has been ripping me off by charging an undisclosed Foregin
>Currency Surcharge on my Mastercard. A Vans tax!
>
>Canadians Heads Up - check your credit card bills for the currency exchange
>rate on your U.S purchases against the Bank of Canada exchange rates.
> http://www.bank-banque-canada.ca/en/exchange-look.htm
>
>Envision Credit Union here in Langley B.C. has been adding an undisclosed 2
>to 3 % to their Mastercard exchange rate.
>
>Example - during a recent visit I made purchases at Vans for $94.62 US and
>put it on my Mastercard for convenience. Mastercard U.S. billed my local
>Credit Union Mastercard $131.71 CAD at the going exchange rate. Envision
>Credit Union bumped my charge up to $135.78 CAD. Had I known about this
>undisclosed charge I could easily have paid for these items with cash
>obtained at a better exchange rate.
>
>I have purchased a lot of U.S. goods on Mastercard because I believed that
>due to their large volume of exchange transactions that they had a good
>exchange rate, and yes the Mastercard exchange rate, Company to Company is
>better than the Bank of Canada exchange rate, at least in this one example I
>checked. Where the robbery occured is the hidden Foreign Currency Surcharge
>added by my local credit union. Not all financial institutions do this, so
>be aware, it affects the cost of your RV!
>
>George McNutt
>Langley, B.C.
George that's amazing, I'd be looking for another Credit Union. When I
travel overseas it is almost universally known that using a credit card
will get you a better exchange rate because the card companies can take
advantage of "the float". Every credit card statement I've received after
traveling out of the US listed a better exchange rate than I could get with
cash at the time of the transaction.
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
13B in gestation mode
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | RV-7A WD-421 Aileron Bell Crank bushing |
I searched the archives but could find out anything regarding the WD-421 Aileron
bell crank bushing. The plans call the bushing out but don't give a part number
or I'm just blind and don't see it.
Do I need to fabricate this bushing or is it part of the kit? Anyone know the part
number?
Karie Daniel
Vans RV-7A
Sammamish, WA
I'd rather be flying than building today!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-7A WD-421 Aileron Bell Crank bushing |
Karie, I believe you will find two pieces of brass tubing in one of the
bags. You will have to ream the inside diameter with a 1/4" reamer. Other
than that, the two brass bushings are ready to go. Just check that the
length of the bushings is about 1/32" longer than the bellcrank so that when
you tighten the 1/4" bolt you compress the bushing and not the bellcrank.
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 QB (Building)
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: RV-7A WD-421 Aileron Bell Crank bushing
>
> I searched the archives but could find out anything regarding the WD-421
Aileron bell crank bushing. The plans call the bushing out but don't give a
part number or I'm just blind and don't see it.
>
> Do I need to fabricate this bushing or is it part of the kit? Anyone know
the part number?
>
> Karie Daniel
> Vans RV-7A
> Sammamish, WA
>
> I'd rather be flying than building today!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Liming <gary(at)liming.org> |
| Subject: | XP360 and Van's baffle kit |
Could someone who's tried it tell me if the any of the baffle kits for the
O-360 from Van's catalog works with little or no modification on the XP360?
Thanks,
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-7A WD-421 Aileron Bell Crank bushing |
Thanks Pat,
I appreciate it. I figured they were probably around, I just have to find
the bag now.
Karie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-7A WD-421 Aileron Bell Crank bushing
>
> Karie, I believe you will find two pieces of brass tubing in one of the
> bags. You will have to ream the inside diameter with a 1/4" reamer.
Other
> than that, the two brass bushings are ready to go. Just check that the
> length of the bushings is about 1/32" longer than the bellcrank so that
when
> you tighten the 1/4" bolt you compress the bushing and not the bellcrank.
>
> Pat Hatch
> RV-4
> RV-6
> RV-7 QB (Building)
> Vero Beach, FL
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: RV-7A WD-421 Aileron Bell Crank bushing
>
>
> >
> > I searched the archives but could find out anything regarding the WD-421
> Aileron bell crank bushing. The plans call the bushing out but don't give
a
> part number or I'm just blind and don't see it.
> >
> > Do I need to fabricate this bushing or is it part of the kit? Anyone
know
> the part number?
> >
> > Karie Daniel
> > Vans RV-7A
> > Sammamish, WA
> >
> > I'd rather be flying than building today!
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6A projects in Quantico, VA area |
Fellow builders - and fliers,
I'll be in the Quantico area for the next week working on a project and would like
to see some other projects underway.
Thanks,
Ralph Capen
RV6A - wiring inst pnl in Richardson TX - but not this week
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tom crawford <iaretom(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | RV6A project for sale |
Sadly,
I have decided to sell my RV6A project.
This is the status-
All parts are epoxy primed.
Wings and tail are done.
QB fuse epoxy primed, cockpit painted(gray to match
control sticks), finished to point of finish kit.
(Controls, flaps, seats, floors, skins all done and
painted. Instrument panel done, ready to be cut for
instruments. (Fitted, but no cutouts.)
Includes complete finish kit due to be shipped
mid-September. (Could be shipped direct to you)
Have extra parts-
I have a fresh rebuilt Lycoming 0-360 for it.
Asking $18,000 without engine, $25,000 with engine.
Plane is in N. Florida
Private e-mail me for questions.
mailto:iaretom(at)yahoo.com
Thanks.
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: XP360 and Van's baffle kit |
Hi Gary,
The baffle kit should be a good cross over as all the involved parts on the
engine are made as cross over part numbers. There should not be any cause
for serious miss fitting parts in the baffle kit.
Jim (not on fire, yet (B-)!) in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Liming" <gary(at)liming.org>
Subject: RV-List: XP360 and Van's baffle kit
>
>
> Could someone who's tried it tell me if the any of the baffle kits for the
> O-360 from Van's catalog works with little or no modification on the
XP360?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Gary
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: XP360 and Van's baffle kit |
| From: | Michael Stephan <mstephan(at)shr.net> |
I am currently putting the baffles on my xp360 and they fit as good as the
baffle kit fits any engine, which requires some small modifications.
Frustrating at times, but much better that fabricating from scratch.
--
Michael Stephan
> From: Gary Liming <gary(at)liming.org>
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 19:48:21 -0500
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: XP360 and Van's baffle kit
>
>
>
> Could someone who's tried it tell me if the any of the baffle kits for the
> O-360 from Van's catalog works with little or no modification on the XP360?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Gary
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <tim(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Wing root fairing nutplates in tank |
Hello listers,
I am still working on completing my wing root fairings. The inboard tank
rib has it's skin rivets only 3/4" spacing. Hardly enough room to install a
nutplate inbetween those for the fairing. My plans are very vague. Are
these just supposed to be sheet metal screws in this location without
nutplates?
Thanks
Tim Bryan
RV-6 N616TB
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A projects in Quantico, VA area |
I have a 6A very near completion in Ashburn, Va. About 8 mi. weat of IAD.
Scott Morrow
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
How many RV's are going from the Denver area?
Stewart RV-4 colorado.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
Supposedly it will, I recieved the remote mag sensor, and when I get it in,
if it works as advertised then I can eliminate my DG and vacuum system. I
hope to get that installed shortly.
It does have a heading bug feature, but I am pretty confident it has no
outputs to drive an autopilot.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
----- Original Message -----
From: "Will & Lynda Allen" <linenwool(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Dynon IFR
>
> Doug,
>
> Does the Dynon replace your DG? And it so, does it have a heading bug to
> drive a heading hold on your autopilot? I've been thinking about this
Dynon
> unit myself for IFR but would only find it feasible if I could replace
> Vacuum AI and DG with it and then have the other 4std instruments
(electric
> TC, Airspeed, Alt, and VSI) for failure backup.
>
> Do you use a TC or does your Navaid replace that sufficiently to be a
backup
> for bank?
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Will Allen
> North Bend, WA
> RV8
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Doug Rozendaal
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Dynon IFR
>
>
> I now have about 16 hours on my Dynon and flew my first IFR with it this
> weekend. I was going to Minot AFB this weekend for Northern Neighbors Day
> (airshow) and Friday morning the Metar was 1/2 mile Vis and clear. The
> perfect day for a first IFR trip because the haze went all the way to 8000
> ft, you could see the ground, barely, but absolutely no horizon. I took
off
> and hand flew the airplane for sometime and then turned on the Navaid.
> Aside from my previous concern about the Dynon sucking you into the
cockpit,
> I now have another concern, The display is so precise, that I fear I will
> become an EFIS cripple. Meaning I may not be able to fly steam gauges
> anymore. I can so accurately keep the wings level, the heading almost
never
> wanders. Same true with pitch, The VSI behaves more like an IVSI and you
> can find a pitch that will yield a certain rate of climb or decent and
hold
> that pitch perfectly and the Rate of climb (or decent) never wanders.
What
> a device.
>
>
> By the time I got into ND the haze was burning off, and I started to
notice
> the device was indicating a slight ~3 deg roll to the left. I centered the
> ball and checked my wingtips with the horizon and no doubt about it, it
was
> indicating a slight bank. I thought, well here we go, this thing won't
hold
> a calibration...... I tried slipping for a while and see if I could have
> any effect on it, but when I centered up, it was still off about 3 deg. I
> was not too concerned, I used to fly a 402 frieghter that had a horizon
that
> was off, about the same and I flew it that way for several years. I was
the
> airboss for the airshow, so I had bigger fish to fry and did not worry
about
> it. On Sunday, I hung around Minot with Warren Pietsch and we swapped
> airplanes, and I flew his 180 hp clipped wing Taylorcraft. What a hoot!!!
> He flew the RV and he really liked it as well.
>
> Last night I left his place and climbing to altitude I noticed the Dynon
> still had its bank error, so I decided I would have to send it in. I
> leveled at 11,500 turned on the Navaid and settled in for a 440 nm trip.
> (2+58 min, 22.5 gallons against a 10+ kt headwind, I love this airplane!)
> Shortly after level off, I looked at the Dynon, and it was dead on.....
Go
> figure???? Anyone else seen any wandering on the Dynon? I will email
them
> and see what they say.
>
> I am still thrilled with the Dynon and still very willing to fly IFR based
> on the backups that I have on board.
>
> Tailwinds,
> Doug Rozendaal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Wiederholt" <mark_wiederholt(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 quick build kit for sale |
empanage 75% complete. Quick build kit untouched. Selling because of health problems.
Located in Houston. Make an offer 832-816-3547
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:Wing Root Fairing Nutplates |
I put the nutplates in the skin overhang,not in the ribs. Too much chane of
a leak if you drill into the rib flange. A K-1000-8 doesn't take muck space
and they don't have much load to pull the holes out.
Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
Charleston, Arkansas
"Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <tim(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Re:Wing Root Fairing Nutplates |
Yikes, I don't have any skin overlap. I better check my drawings to see if
I made a mistake I have yet to uncover. At anyrate, I don't have any
overhang. Guess I better start figuring out a new plan.
As always I appreciate your reply as well as any others.
Tim
-------Original Message-------
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Sunday, August 24, 2003 08:16:55 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re:Wing Root Fairing Nutplates
I put the nutplates in the skin overhang,not in the ribs. Too much chane of
a leak if you drill into the rib flange. A K-1000-8 doesn't take muck space
and they don't have much load to pull the holes out.
Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
Charleston, Arkansas
"Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers"
.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Will & Lynda Allen" <linenwool(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | edge rolling leading edge of elevator |
Has anyone used an edge roller on the leading edge of the elevator or any
control surfaces that have the bending aluminum? After rolling the leading
edge with the pipe and attaching the clecos, I'm finding that between the
clecos the aluminum is lifting slightly and thought this might be fixed by
using the edge rolling tool.
Thanks,
-Will Allen
North Bend, WA.
RV8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Grigson <iflyhawaii2(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: edge rolling leading edge of elevator |
Yep I did. Works great!
Greg
Honolulu
Will & Lynda Allen wrote:
Has anyone used an edge roller on the leading edge of the elevator or any
control surfaces that have the bending aluminum? After rolling the leading
edge with the pipe and attaching the clecos, I'm finding that between the
clecos the aluminum is lifting slightly and thought this might be fixed by
using the edge rolling tool.
Thanks,
-Will Allen
North Bend, WA.
RV8
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Walker" <ron(at)walker.net> |
| Subject: | Re: edge rolling leading edge of elevator |
Me also ... the leading edges of the elevators and the rudder where it gets
rolled with the pipe. A bit of a crease from the edge rolling tool will keep
it nice and flush where it meets the opposite side. Looks/works great!
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Grigson" <iflyhawaii2(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: edge rolling leading edge of elevator
>
> Yep I did. Works great!
>
> Greg
> Honolulu
>
> Will & Lynda Allen wrote:
>
>
> Has anyone used an edge roller on the leading edge of the elevator or any
> control surfaces that have the bending aluminum? After rolling the leading
> edge with the pipe and attaching the clecos, I'm finding that between the
> clecos the aluminum is lifting slightly and thought this might be fixed by
> using the edge rolling tool.
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Will Allen
> North Bend, WA.
> RV8
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | edge rolling leading edge of elevator |
| From: | "Wier, Daniel C." <daniel(at)thegreatwhite.net> |
Can anyone send me a picture of their correctly finished rolled edge from several
angles? I do not think mine look right, but they could be.
Thanks,
Daniel Wier
Daniel(at)TheGreatWhite.net
________________________________
From: Ron Walker [mailto:ron(at)walker.net]=09
Subject: Re: RV-List: edge rolling leading edge of elevator=09
=09
Me also ... the leading edges of the elevators and the rudder where it gets
rolled with the pipe. A bit of a crease from the edge rolling tool will keep
it nice and flush where it meets the opposite side. Looks/works great!
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Grigson" <iflyhawaii2(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: edge rolling leading edge of elevator
>
> Yep I did. Works great!
>
> Greg
> Honolulu
>
> Will & Lynda Allen wrote:
>
>
> Has anyone used an edge roller on the leading edge of the elevator or any
> control surfaces that have the bending aluminum? After rolling the leading
> edge with the pipe and attaching the clecos, I'm finding that between the
> clecos the aluminum is lifting slightly and thought this might be fixed by
> using the edge rolling tool.
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Will Allen
> North Bend, WA.
> RV8
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re:Wing Root Fairing Nutplates |
Don't know what the -7 plans show, but dwg. 18 for the -6,(6A) shows a 1/2"
over-hang of the skin from the in-board rib flange edge. I had put some
masking tape along the inside of this over-hang with the edge of the tape
about 3/32" away from the flange edge to allow application of a fillet of
Proseal along the joint of the flange-to-skin interface (leak precaution).
After removing the tape, there really was not enough room on the remaining
overhang to dimple it to take the K-1100-8 nutplates. So I extended the
overhang with tabs riveted-in at the nutplate locations, wide enough to make
a good nutplate installation. This was done after the first wing trial
installation on the fuselage when the WRF was trial fitted and the screw
locations were finalized.
When you come to trim the WRF for a good contour fit to the fuselage side, I
found that a 3/16" gap is ideal for the seal that was provided (in my kit,
[then, in 1995] ) by Vans.
Cheers-----Henry Hore
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Compressor Noise |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
After a lot of lurking and consideration of different planes I've
decided to take the plunge for an RV-10. While waiting on the emp kit,
I now need to start equipping the shop. I've seen a lot of discussions
on compressors and looked back through the archives but never found
anything really definitive that answers my question (maybe because this
is subjective?). It appears that size isn't critical given that most of
the tools are low air users but bigger is better. What I'd really like
is specific recommendations for something that is relatively quiet - any
specific make/models that are quieter than others and of a sufficient
size for the project?
Thanks
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Geoff Evans <hellothaimassage(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Landing gear attach brackets RV-8 |
Regarding the outboard landing gear attach brackets (U-803s) for an RV-8,
drawing 35 says to chamfer the outer corners so they don't interfere with the
bottom fuselage skins.
It looks like I'll have to grind away quite a bit of the steel in the U-803s
in order to get them to fit. Should I worry about removing "too much" steel,
or will I be okay if I remove whatever is necessary for the U-803s to nestle
up into the bottom corners of the fuselage skins?
Additionally, does anyone know why we are to remove metal from the U-803s as
opposed to cutting notches in the bottom skins and allowing the corners of
the U-803s to protrude slightly? The entire gear leg is sticking out in this
location, so the extra 1/4" that the attach bracket would stick out can't
really cause any drag issues. Would cutting a small notch in the skins in
this location drastically reduce their strength?
Thanks.
-Geoff
RV-8 QB fuselage
__________________________________
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Compressor Noise |
Hi Bob,
You'll be fine as long as you stay away from the "oil-less" direct drive
compressors. Most of the belt driven single or double piston units are just
fine. They get louder as you get bigger, but my 7.5hp/80gallon/220V
Ingersoll Rand is still quieter than a old little craftsman "oiless" piece
of crap that I had years ago. I also have a 5hp 2cyl/40 gallon portable in
my garage and it's just fine. Mind you it's not silent, but fine without
ear protection.
Sorry I can't be more specific on brands, but the type is the first big
thing!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
http://www.steinair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US
SSA)
Subject: RV-List: Compressor Noise
After a lot of lurking and consideration of different planes I've
decided to take the plunge for an RV-10. While waiting on the emp kit,
I now need to start equipping the shop. I've seen a lot of discussions
on compressors and looked back through the archives but never found
anything really definitive that answers my question (maybe because this
is subjective?). It appears that size isn't critical given that most of
the tools are low air users but bigger is better. What I'd really like
is specific recommendations for something that is relatively quiet - any
specific make/models that are quieter than others and of a sufficient
size for the project?
Thanks
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Compressor Noise |
>
>After a lot of lurking and consideration of different planes I've
>decided to take the plunge for an RV-10. While waiting on the emp kit,
>I now need to start equipping the shop. I've seen a lot of discussions
>on compressors and looked back through the archives but never found
>anything really definitive that answers my question (maybe because this
>is subjective?). It appears that size isn't critical given that most of
>the tools are low air users but bigger is better. What I'd really like
>is specific recommendations for something that is relatively quiet - any
>specific make/models that are quieter than others and of a sufficient
>size for the project?
>
>Thanks
>Bob
I have both a Campbell Hausfeld 3hp and a 5hp Craftsman. Both have served
me well but the 5 is better for higher volume use, due to it's 30 gallon
tank. They make noise, no doubt about that. If noise sensitivity inside
your home is an issue, then you can place it outside in a small hut that you
make for it, and pipe it inside the garage/shop. This hut can be insulated
for noise deadening. It must be ventilated properly though or you'll roast
your compressor in no time. You'll be working on sheet metal, and it's not
a quiet material. Riveting is usually done in batches only sporadically,
and the greatest noise is from drilling, grinding and buffng. I also shut
the door to my shop when riveting to keep the neighbors happy.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 empacone 40051
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Compressor Noise |
For my RV6A project, I bought a 25 gallon, "5 hp", oil-lubricated model from Campbell
Hausfeld. I've been very happy with it, recognizing that there is no
way for it to get 5hp out of a 120volt outlet. I suspect it would be weak at
extended painting, but for everything else including priming it has worked fine.
I would definately get a oil-lubricated model as they are *much* quieter
than the oil free units. That said, they're still loud - just not painfully
so :-).
Thanks!
Brad "Sharpie" Benson
RV6AQB underway...
"Please buy my software, it's funding my RV6A project!" - http://www.notamd.com
*********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********
On 8/25/2003 at 9:45 AM Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
>
>
>After a lot of lurking and consideration of different planes I've
>decided to take the plunge for an RV-10. While waiting on the emp kit,
>I now need to start equipping the shop. I've seen a lot of discussions
>on compressors and looked back through the archives but never found
>anything really definitive that answers my question (maybe because this
>is subjective?). It appears that size isn't critical given that most of
>the tools are low air users but bigger is better. What I'd really like
>is specific recommendations for something that is relatively quiet - any
>specific make/models that are quieter than others and of a sufficient
>size for the project?
>
>Thanks
>Bob
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Miller <rmill2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing gear attach brackets RV-8 |
Geoff
Notch the skins as necessary to make those attachments fit. The whole
area is covered by a fairing anyway so rounding-out the skins a little to
make the brackets fit will not be a problem. I would advise against
removing metal from those brackets--they have to handle quite a load.
--- Geoff Evans wrote:
>
> Regarding the outboard landing gear attach brackets (U-803s) for an
> RV-8,
> drawing 35 says to chamfer the outer corners so they don't interfere
> with the
> bottom fuselage skins.
>
> It looks like I'll have to grind away quite a bit of the steel in the
> U-803s
> in order to get them to fit. Should I worry about removing "too much"
> steel,
> or will I be okay if I remove whatever is necessary for the U-803s to
> nestle
> up into the bottom corners of the fuselage skins?
>
> Additionally, does anyone know why we are to remove metal from the
> U-803s as
> opposed to cutting notches in the bottom skins and allowing the corners
> of
> the U-803s to protrude slightly? The entire gear leg is sticking out in
> this
> location, so the extra 1/4" that the attach bracket would stick out
> can't
> really cause any drag issues. Would cutting a small notch in the skins
> in
> this location drastically reduce their strength?
>
> Thanks.
> -Geoff
> RV-8 QB fuselage
>
> __________________________________
> http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
====
Rob Miller RV-8 N262RM 135 hours
Bad Cat Aviation--Toy Airplanes and Unique Pilot Gifts
www.badcataviation.com
__________________________________
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Compressor Noise |
I bought one of these as well. It came with instructions how to re-wire
it for 220V, so if you wanted to you *could* get 5HP out of it. But it
seems to work just fine on 120V, with the 2-3HP it's using. I had
planned on re-wiring it and connecting it to my (clothes) dryer outlet,
as that's a convenient 220V circuit, but I never got around to it and
now don't see the need.
-Rob
Brad Benson wrote:
>
>
> For my RV6A project, I bought a 25 gallon, "5 hp", oil-lubricated model from
Campbell Hausfeld. I've been very happy with it, recognizing that there is no
way for it to get 5hp out of a 120volt outlet. I suspect it would be weak
at extended painting, but for everything else including priming it has worked
fine. I would definately get a oil-lubricated model as they are *much* quieter
than the oil free units. That said, they're still loud - just not painfully
so :-).
>
> Thanks!
> Brad "Sharpie" Benson
> RV6AQB underway...
> "Please buy my software, it's funding my RV6A project!" - http://www.notamd.com
>
> *********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********
>
> On 8/25/2003 at 9:45 AM Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
>
>
>>
>>
>>After a lot of lurking and consideration of different planes I've
>>decided to take the plunge for an RV-10. While waiting on the emp kit,
>>I now need to start equipping the shop. I've seen a lot of discussions
>>on compressors and looked back through the archives but never found
>>anything really definitive that answers my question (maybe because this
>>is subjective?). It appears that size isn't critical given that most of
>>the tools are low air users but bigger is better. What I'd really like
>>is specific recommendations for something that is relatively quiet - any
>>specific make/models that are quieter than others and of a sufficient
>>size for the project?
>>
>>Thanks
>>Bob
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steven Eberhart <newtech(at)newtech.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Compressor Noise |
I looked around at 60 gal tank units at Home Depot. Lowes, Rural King,
Tractor Supply and Harbor Freight. Funny thing, they all seem to be
made by the same company, just painted different colors. I ended up
buying the 220 VAC, 6.5 Hp, 60 Gal. oiled unit from Home Depot. Why?
Home Depot sponsors Tony Stewart and my wife likes him. Home Depot also
delivered the compressor and all of the wood to build my EAA Chapter
1000 work benches and the H frame used to jig my empennage and wings.
My kit was an early RV-7 kit and they still recommended using the H
frame. I like the 60 gal tank. The die grinder uses the most air and
the compressor will periodically cycle when using it a lot.
I also plumbed my shop for overhead air delivery and use the plastic
coiled air hoses at each drop. Even went overboard and painted the
floor with epoxy paint. Since I only get to use half of the two car
garage, I put a large carpet remnant down in the work area. Easier on
the feet and the aluminum shavings still vacuum up ok. Harder to find
all of the rivets when you spill a bottle of them but worth the effort.
If I were to do it again today, I would still do everything exactly the
same.
Tools I wouldn't part with? I consider my pneumatic rivet squeezer right
up there at the top. I don't even own a hand squeezer and only miss not
having one when it would be nice to partially squeeze a rived to
increase its diameter before inserting into a rivet hole that has been
drilled out several times. Just buy a supply of oops rivets from Van
and save the money for the hand squeezer.
Steve Eberhart
RV-7A, working on the second wing panel and saving money for my fuselage
kit.
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
>
> After a lot of lurking and consideration of different planes I've
> decided to take the plunge for an RV-10. While waiting on the emp kit,
> I now need to start equipping the shop. I've seen a lot of discussions
> on compressors and looked back through the archives but never found
> anything really definitive that answers my question (maybe because this
> is subjective?). It appears that size isn't critical given that most of
> the tools are low air users but bigger is better. What I'd really like
> is specific recommendations for something that is relatively quiet - any
> specific make/models that are quieter than others and of a sufficient
> size for the project?
>
> Thanks
> Bob
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Compressor Noise |
Mine didn't come with any such instructions, but I think I will call CH and see
if I can get some. My compressor is almost directly under the panel in the
garage, so 220 would be easy to get. Thanks for the tip!
Thanks!
Brad "Sharpie" Benson
RV6AQB underway...
"Please buy my software, it's funding my RV6A project!" - http://www.notamd.com
*********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********
On 8/25/2003 at 11:37 AM Rob Prior wrote:
>
>I bought one of these as well. It came with instructions how to re-wire
>it for 220V, so if you wanted to you *could* get 5HP out of it. But it
>seems to work just fine on 120V, with the 2-3HP it's using. I had
>planned on re-wiring it and connecting it to my (clothes) dryer outlet,
>as that's a convenient 220V circuit, but I never got around to it and
>now don't see the need.
>
>-Rob
>
>Brad Benson wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> For my RV6A project, I bought a 25 gallon, "5 hp", oil-lubricated model
>from Campbell Hausfeld. I've been very happy with it, recognizing that
>there is no way for it to get 5hp out of a 120volt outlet. I suspect it
>would be weak at extended painting, but for everything else including
>priming it has worked fine. I would definately get a oil-lubricated
>model as they are *much* quieter than the oil free units. That said,
>they're still loud - just not painfully so :-).
>>
>> Thanks!
>> Brad "Sharpie" Benson
>> RV6AQB underway...
>> "Please buy my software, it's funding my RV6A project!" -
>http://www.notamd.com
>>
>> *********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********
>>
>> On 8/25/2003 at 9:45 AM Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>After a lot of lurking and consideration of different planes I've
>>>decided to take the plunge for an RV-10. While waiting on the emp kit,
>>>I now need to start equipping the shop. I've seen a lot of discussions
>>>on compressors and looked back through the archives but never found
>>>anything really definitive that answers my question (maybe because this
>>>is subjective?). It appears that size isn't critical given that most of
>>>the tools are low air users but bigger is better. What I'd really like
>>>is specific recommendations for something that is relatively quiet - any
>>>specific make/models that are quieter than others and of a sufficient
>>>size for the project?
>>>
>>>Thanks
>>>Bob
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Compressor Noise |
Hi Rob,
I was told that setting up the old Sears oil type two piston compressor to
run with 220 was more efficient, so I did so 20 years ago and it still runs
great.
It keeps up to my cheapo HVLP spray gun and recovers quite fast when used
hard.
The unit is livable noise wise.
Who knows over the years I might have saved enough on the electric bills to
pay for the RV......{P-)!
Jim in smoking Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob Prior" <rv7(at)b4.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Compressor Noise
>
> I bought one of these as well. It came with instructions how to re-wire
> it for 220V, so if you wanted to you *could* get 5HP out of it. But it
> seems to work just fine on 120V, with the 2-3HP it's using. I had
> planned on re-wiring it and connecting it to my (clothes) dryer outlet,
> as that's a convenient 220V circuit, but I never got around to it and
> now don't see the need.
>
> -Rob
>
> Brad Benson wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > For my RV6A project, I bought a 25 gallon, "5 hp", oil-lubricated model
from Campbell Hausfeld. I've been very happy with it, recognizing that
there is no way for it to get 5hp out of a 120volt outlet. I suspect it
would be weak at extended painting, but for everything else including
priming it has worked fine. I would definately get a oil-lubricated model
as they are *much* quieter than the oil free units. That said, they're
still loud - just not painfully so :-).
> >
> > Thanks!
> > Brad "Sharpie" Benson
> > RV6AQB underway...
> > "Please buy my software, it's funding my RV6A project!" -
http://www.notamd.com
> >
> > *********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********
> >
> > On 8/25/2003 at 9:45 AM Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> >
> >
> >>
> >>
> >>After a lot of lurking and consideration of different planes I've
> >>decided to take the plunge for an RV-10. While waiting on the emp kit,
> >>I now need to start equipping the shop. I've seen a lot of discussions
> >>on compressors and looked back through the archives but never found
> >>anything really definitive that answers my question (maybe because this
> >>is subjective?). It appears that size isn't critical given that most of
> >>the tools are low air users but bigger is better. What I'd really like
> >>is specific recommendations for something that is relatively quiet - any
> >>specific make/models that are quieter than others and of a sufficient
> >>size for the project?
> >>
> >>Thanks
> >>Bob
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Almost Ready to Build |
>
>Listers;
>
>As I begin my 1st RV project, I envision using an autopilot system (TruTrak
>at this point),
>lighting, etc. I plan on building it as an IFR craft. Question: Are
>there any flight instruments I
>should purchase to have on hand when starting the plane?
>
>Thanks for your input,
>
>Bruce Breckenridge
>Awaiting RV-10
>
No. You won't need them for a long time.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 empacone 40051
Get MSN 8 and enjoy automatic e-mail virus protection.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Almost Ready to Build |
You may want to consider getting your TruTrak wing servo installation kit.
Although it can be installed later, it is easier to do it before closing the
wings.
Dave Burnham
(N64FN - reserved)
RV6A Wiring etc.
> >Listers;
> >
> >As I begin my 1st RV project, I envision using an autopilot system (TruTrak
>
> >at this point),
> >lighting, etc. I plan on building it as an IFR craft. Question: Are
> >there any flight instruments I
> >should purchase to have on hand when starting the plane?
> >
> >Thanks for your input,
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Folks,
a while ago I posted about a bubble appearing in my right brake system
between the copilot and pilot's master cylinders after going upsidedown.
Well, a few months ago I finally noticed a small amount of fluid coming from
the top of the right brake pilot's master cylinder where the push rod enters
into the top bushing.
Upon overhauling this I found that the top oring was marred, and the shaft
was kind of rough in a few areas. Not specific dings but the finish was
marred as if by abrasion. Not sure if this happened during construction or
it was delivered this way. I could find no evidence of something causing
this as installed.
I chucked it up in the lathe and polished it working from 400 grit to 2000
and some rouge. And now the bubble no longer appears after doing
aerobatics.
So the moral of the story is to go upsidedown every flight to verify that
your master cylinders are not at the post airleaking - pre fluidleaking
stage.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <panamared2(at)brier.net> |
> >From Previous post:
>If my GPS fails . . I'll declare an emergency ??!!!???
>
>With all due respect; are you kidding. You do what you need to do to
>conclude your flight safely. Knowing your limits shows good judgement and
>that is the most important thing.
>But I'd suggest you practice without a GPS once in a while.
At least I took it as kidding, but the original topic was reliability of
this vs that and vacuum vs non vacuum and how could you possibly even
remotely consider flying IFR without dual everything and backups for every
system.
Now with dual alternators, a Blue Mountain EFIS and DYNON EFIS both backed
up by a Grand Rapids EFIS,and all three with independent backup batteries,
dual independent vacuum sytems, two venturi vacuum systems, four Nav
Radios, 3 Com Radios, HSI, Radio Compass, AN Receiver, LORAN, dual ASI,
dual altimeter, dual outside temp gauges, triple vacuum gauges and at least
one angle of attack indicator of every make and model and THEN YOUR ONLY
HANDHELD GPS FAILS! Well then ... you see my point!
The irony of the entire message is that you can just about land anywhere go
to KMart and buy another handheld GPS, but all that other stuff? Of all
the stuff in my airplane, the most reliable thing I have is my handheld
GPS! And if it fails, that means that everything else has already gone
Tango Uniform and then I will:
1. Declare an emergency
2. Land
3. Buy another GPS!
For the humor impaired, and for those who do not also see the irony of the
Arnold VS Cruz fight in California, this is.... oh never mind, I've lost
you long before this part anyway.
Please Do (not that I am boastful) Archive
Bob
RV6 The Night Fighter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: Almost Ready to Build |
>
>Listers;
>
>As I begin my 1st RV project, I envision using an autopilot system
>(TruTrak at this point),
>lighting, etc. I plan on building it as an IFR craft. Question: Are
>there any flight instruments I
>should purchase to have on hand when starting the plane?
they will get. It is a purchase best delayed.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: dead reckoning |
Wheeler North wrote:
>
>
> Have you ever wondered why they call it "Dead" reckoning. Its seems like
> "Live" reckoning would provide a much higher level of positive karma on the
> outcome.
Do a Google search on "ded reckoning" and you will find some interesting
articles telling how "dead reckoning" may be a corruption of the old
nautical practice of ded (deduced) reckoning.
Seems the technique may have originated with tossing an object into the
water to check the speed and direction of the ship. If wind and current
was figured into the process, it was ded (deduced) reckoning. If wind
and current wasn't part of the solution, it was dead (the object was
dead in the water) reckoning.
Or somethin' like that.............
Navigation by dead reckoning in aviation is via time and distance as
opposed to pilotage which uses terrestrial checkpoints.
There.........you now know FAR more than you EVER wanted to know about
dead reckoning! :-)
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Kinda out of date guys as I'm catching up but, most breeds of aluminum and
1100 series steel aren't that corrosive """compared to many other
combinations""".
The reference to car engine failures isn't really accurate. The most common
failure is not due to corrosion but due to variances in their coefficient of
thermal expansion. The head gaskets get scrubbed. Inline engines see it more
often on the end cylinders as they are longer. Then exhaust gasses start to
errode the aluminum as the joint is failing. Also the coolant becomes very
corrosive as the exhaust gasses begin to work on it as well.
Now, you want a bad combination mix corrosion resistant steels with
aluminum. In boats I've seen aluminum fuel tanks cut in half via corrosion,
not abrasion due to wet proximity to SS lines.
This is why the SS screw sets they sell for aircraft are nutty. In standard
steel the steel will show corrosion by the time the aluminum is also
beginning to corrode. SS harware will look just fine when the aluminum skin
is dust underneath it.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pre punched- gotta love it. |
Hell, mine was that good without the aid of prepunched holes. :-)
BTW, I'm about to start looking closely at a Dragonfly. Should be interesting.
The fella even mentioned my doing some work on it to prep it for flight. It's
been flown before; but, it was taken apart to transport to his house not far
from me. He has a A but, it has a lot of rust on it.
Jim
> Welp, looking at my canoe and still smiling at just how well all the
> prepunched stuff went together I got out the ever so incriminating smart
> level. Remember, these pre punched fuselages get built using three
> sawhorses and no jigs. Mine is going to fly crooked and
> sideways...........only because of the pilot!! It's 2/10 of a degree off!!
> That is without the installation of the aft deck which is used for taking
> any built in twist out. Just for grins I pulled out the bubble level,
> knowing the answer beforehand. You can't see 2/10 of a degree with a bubble
> level. It appears, with a bubble, to be dead nuts straight.
>
> Sorry, I just had to make a public................Thanks
> Van's..................statement.
>
> This thing is getting big quick!!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Almost Ready to Build |
No. The technology and your ideas/thought/preferences will change by
the time you are ready to populate you panel. Beside, some of them will
rot on the shelf if they don't see frequent use.
Looking back, it humorous how wilding my 'ideal' panel has changed over
the years.
My two cents.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
2003 - The year of flight!
> -----Original Message-----
> From: BBreckenridge(at)att.net [mailto:BBreckenridge(at)att.net]
> Sent: Monday, August 25, 2003 3:10 PM
> To: RV-List(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Almost Ready to Build
>
>
>
> Listers;
>
> As I begin my 1st RV project, I envision using an autopilot
> system (TruTrak at this point),
> lighting, etc. I plan on building it as an IFR craft.
> Question: Are there any flight instruments I
> should purchase to have on hand when starting the plane?
>
> Thanks for your input,
>
> Bruce Breckenridge
> Awaiting RV-10
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dag adamson <dag_adamson(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Cool Tool: For screws in to nut plates |
Hello-
Just discovered a very cool tool for getting #8 screws
in to those zillions of nutplates in the cockpit.
I am psyched because I have destroyed a bunch of screw
heads over the past year or so and I felt like a
girly-man for not being able to turn a #2 Craftsman
screw driver to get the screws in. (Despite trying to
use oil/wax/ you name it - I was even tempted and
wrongfully advised to tap the darn nutplates).
Solution:
Snap-on Screwdriver ratchet. Its not one of those
ratchet handles where you place hex bits - its a
ratchet where you can take a regular screwdriver place
it through the round hole of the ratchet and can
either tighten or flip it over and loosen. It comes
with bits although I prefer the a regular screwdriver
so I can get to those ever convenient screws that
seemingly are right next to outside panels and baggage
panels. $25
I also discovered that a good quality Snap-On phillips
head screwdriver makes a difference too. $15
The right tool. Priceless. Its the little victories.
-Dag
====
*****************
Dag Adamson
617 513 1182
Cambridge, MA
Grand Junction, CO
*****************
__________________________________
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:Cool Tool;for screws into nutplates |
I have a hex bit holder which I like to use with my Snap-On 1/4" drive
ratchet. The Snap-On ratchet has a flat top so you can put your thumb on to push.
I get drywall #2 phillips screwdriver bits at a good building supply
place-the small point kind with serrated flutes. Those babies hold to the screw
really
well. I always tighten screws with the ratchet,NOT my cordless drill.
You can also get the bottom wheel fairing screws with the ratchet.
Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
Charleston, Arkansas
"Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Cool Tool: For screws in to nut plates |
P/N? (Still working on my emp. but always looking for an excuse to buy a
new tool).
Brett Morawski
Toledo, OH
-8(a?) emp.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of dag adamson
Subject: RV-List: Cool Tool: For screws in to nut plates
Hello-
Just discovered a very cool tool for getting #8 screws
in to those zillions of nutplates in the cockpit.
I am psyched because I have destroyed a bunch of screw
heads over the past year or so and I felt like a
girly-man for not being able to turn a #2 Craftsman
screw driver to get the screws in. (Despite trying to
use oil/wax/ you name it - I was even tempted and
wrongfully advised to tap the darn nutplates).
Solution:
Snap-on Screwdriver ratchet. Its not one of those
ratchet handles where you place hex bits - its a
ratchet where you can take a regular screwdriver place
it through the round hole of the ratchet and can
either tighten or flip it over and loosen. It comes
with bits although I prefer the a regular screwdriver
so I can get to those ever convenient screws that
seemingly are right next to outside panels and baggage
panels. $25
I also discovered that a good quality Snap-On phillips
head screwdriver makes a difference too. $15
The right tool. Priceless. Its the little victories.
-Dag
====
*****************
Dag Adamson
617 513 1182
Cambridge, MA
Grand Junction, CO
*****************
__________________________________
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BillDube(at)killacycle.com" <BillDube(at)killacycle.com> |
| Subject: | Almost Ready to Build |
A pair of my LED Position lights are in the air! Bob Gross was one of the
first folks to order a kit and is the first one to fly a set of LED
position lights.
See what a nice job he did building the compact square version of the kit
at:
<http://www.f1-rocketboy.com/ledlites.html>
Bill Dube
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Banjo fitting for carburetor |
Does anyone know if a banjo fitting is available to connect the fuel line
from the engine driven fuel pump to the carburetor body? With my heat muff
in place there isn't a lot of room for a 90 degree fitting at that location.
A banjo fitting also would solve the orientation or "clocking" problem.
Steve Soule
N227RV RV-6A flying since 9/2001
Banjo fitting for carburetor
Does anyone know if a banjo fitting is available to connect the fuel line from
the engine driven fuel pump to the carburetor body? With my heat muff in place
there isn't a lot of room for a 90 degree fitting at that location. A banjo fitting
also would solve the orientation or "clocking" problem.
Steve Soule
N227RV RV-6A flying since 9/2001
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cool Tool: For screws in to nut plates |
In a message dated 08/25/2003 9:49:24 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
dag_adamson(at)yahoo.com writes:
> I have destroyed a bunch of screw
> heads over the past year or so and I felt like a
> girly-man for not being able to turn a #2 Craftsman
> screw driver to get the screws in. (Despite trying to
> use oil/wax/ you name it - I was even tempted and
> wrongfully advised to tap the darn nutplates).
>
Personally I wouldn't hesitate to run a tap partway into a tight nut plate
if lubricant such as fuel-lube didn't work... I have had a few broken-off #6
screws to prove the folly of not doing this when it's necessary, as well as
countless buggered-up screw heads. A switch to stainless steel screws will allow
a lot more duty-cycles before the Phillips head is eventually marred to the
point of replacement; especially useful in areas that require repeated access
for annual condx inspections.
Most nut plates seem far tighter than necessary to do their job of safetying
a screw fastener against vibration. And, yes, the plans seem to put as many
screws as possible in the least accessible locations. I'm one of those guys
who decided long ago to use nutplates and screws in the baggage floor to make it
more accessible. I would not do this again - far better to drill out
pop-rivets if you ever need to access this area after completion. (IMO)
-Bill B
RV-6A vintage '94-'98
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Wing Building Sequence-Your Opinion Please |
Someone suggested building the control surfaces first when starting the wing kit.
Why? You have already done control surfaces on the empennage, and it is easier
to line up the surfaces to the wing if they are completed. It made sense
to me, your opinions are appreciated.
Glenn in Arizona -9A slow build wings ordered.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pre punched- gotta love it. |
In a message dated 08/25/2003 3:19:37 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
bo124rs(at)hotmail.com writes:
> Just for grins I pulled out the bubble level,
> knowing the answer beforehand. You can't see 2/10 of a degree with a bubble
>
> level. It appears, with a bubble, to be dead nuts straight.
>
>
I thought it was "ded nuts," as in "deduced nuts." You know, like, "I've been
reading your posts and deduced that you were nuts," or something like that.
Bubble levels allow us to do "deduced levelling," making the claim that
something is "dead level." Smart Levels, especially if WAAS-enabled, allow for
much
more precision. Be forewarned that this technological progress will exact a
cultural price, since quaint expressions like "That Kentucky feller is half a
bubble off-level" just won't sound the same when modernized to "Well, you know
Dana; he's always about 0.265 +/- .005 degrees out of plumb..."
Congratulations on a marvelous airplane that sounds like it is going together
very very well. I'm jealous. Still have stains on my hands from refining my
own aluminum from the bauxite Van's shipped me back in '94...
-Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | -8 oil cooler selection |
-8 Flying Builders,
Any -8 builder/drivers out there who would recommend (or not) the
Aeroclassics nine plate oil cooler (Chief Aircraft catalog) for firewall
mounting? Any and all educated suggestions welcome.Thanks in advance.
(AeroSport Power IO-360 M-B2 on order.)
Jack
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Cimino" <jcimino(at)echoes.net> |
| Subject: | Re: -8 oil cooler selection |
I have the posi tech in my -8 and have never had a problem. It is firewall
mounted, but I mad a better plenum for the top and use a 3" hose. Has never
gone above 190. Air flow through the cooler is the most important thing.
Jim
James Cimino
RV-8 SN 80039
100+ Hours
570-842-4057
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: -8 oil cooler selection
>
> -8 Flying Builders,
>
> Any -8 builder/drivers out there who would recommend (or not) the
> Aeroclassics nine plate oil cooler (Chief Aircraft catalog) for firewall
> mounting? Any and all educated suggestions welcome.Thanks in advance.
> (AeroSport Power IO-360 M-B2 on order.)
>
> Jack
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: -8 oil cooler selection |
>
>-8 Flying Builders,
>
>Any -8 builder/drivers out there who would recommend (or not) the
>Aeroclassics nine plate oil cooler (Chief Aircraft catalog) for firewall
>mounting? Any and all educated suggestions welcome.Thanks in advance.
>(AeroSport Power IO-360 M-B2 on order.)
>
>Jack
>
I had quite a trial with oil cooling issues in my -8. Actually, it's not
uncommon for -8's to run hot. Get the most efficient cooler you can,
mounted on the baffle for direct ram air inlet. I had an earlier Positech
seven row on the firewall, with a 3" scat hose to it. I consistently ran
over 200 degrees even on warm days. Fughedabout a head soaked, hot summer
day full power climb to cruise altitude. Had to level off, power back, and
cruise for a while to cool it off, then continue the climb.
The Aeroclassics cooler looks OK, but I would put it on the rear baffle if
possible. It may not fit though. The 200hp angle valve engines (I think
that's what you have on order?) run even hotter with piston skirt oil
splash. Perhaps Danny King can elaborate on his setup. I have a carbureted
O-360/180hp.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Get MSN 8 and help protect your children with advanced parental controls.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dwpetrus(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Atlanta area RVer's freindly airport near downtown Atlanta |
Dane,
I landed at Dekalb-Peachtree and used (Mercury Air Center) for the True Value
show a couple of months ago. They were very friendly and I would use them
again.
Wayne Petrus
RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: -8 oil cooler selection |
>
>
>I have the posi tech in my -8 and have never had a problem. It is firewall
>mounted, but I mad a better plenum for the top and use a 3" hose. Has
>never
>gone above 190. Air flow through the cooler is the most important thing.
>Jim
>
>James Cimino
>RV-8 SN 80039
>100+ Hours
>570-842-4057
>http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
There is a looong and sordid history of the Positech coolers in the RV list.
The originals were crap....period. They finally realized it and
redesigned them, and offered free replacements to owners of the original
boat anchors. So, if your cooler is a newer model, with approximately the
same air gap between plates as the Niagara or Stewart Warner then you have
the newer, improved unit. If not, ask for the new one and get a free
cooler! All I had to do was tell them I was not happy with the performance
of the original cooler I bought in the '98/'99 time frame, and they sent me
the new cooler...totally free..and did not want the original cooler back.
I also live at mile high field elevation. Cooling is simply not as
effective here in the thinner, and often freakin' HOT summertime atmosphere.
With the original cooler in my airplane, when down nearer to sea level, I
did notice a quicker temperature recovery and it took longer to heat up.
Since changing over to a seven row Niagara Air Parts cooler placed on the
baffle, I seldom get heated up above 200 except in seriously high and hot
and/or heat soaked conditions.
So, moral of this story is that not all coolers are created alike....not
even from the same vendor in this case. Your mileage may vary, do not take
with medications and do not operate heavy machinery...yada yada yada.
Buy the best and biggest cooler you can wedge into the airplane, and feed it
lots of direct airflow. Cooling will not be a problem.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
345 hrs.
Get MSN 8 and enjoy automatic e-mail virus protection.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <tim(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Building Sequence-Your Opinion Please |
Glenn in Arizona,
I can't speak too much for the 9 but I built a -6 that way. However when
you flip the wings over to do the control brackets it is easier to have the
controls to verify the distances and what not.
For what it's worth.
Tim Bryan in Oregon
RV-6 N616TB
-------Original Message-------
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Tuesday, August 26, 2003 08:56:27 AM
Subject: RV-List: Wing Building Sequence-Your Opinion Please
Someone suggested building the control surfaces first when starting the wing
kit. Why? You have already done control surfaces on the empennage, and it is
easier to line up the surfaces to the wing if they are completed. It made
sense to me, your opinions are appreciated.
Glenn in Arizona -9A slow build wings ordered.
.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <tim(at)bryantechnology.com> |
Any radio gurus out there?
First, since my panel was pre wired for me , I can't believe how much wire I
had to still run. But, it is all in and almost all terminated inside the
airplane. I had originally planned on putting my headset jacks in the back
somewhere and therefore the wire was not connected to the jacks. I did have
the labeling for the wires.
The question is this. I fired up my panel and turned on my SL15M first as
part of my check out. The transmit light came on and stayed on. So after
powering it down, I looked under the panel at my jacks to confirm nothing
was touching accross the PTT leads or any other for that matter. Still no
success, so I removed them from the panel and pluged my headsets in, turned
it on... Perfect. Of course turning my radio on next was most excellent to
hear Redmond tower.
I installed the two insulators on the jacks, one front and one back. What could
be causing them to key up for transmit?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harvey Sigmon" <rv6hes(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Headphone Jacks |
Tim : What happens is the jacks are suppose to be insulated from ground,
when you wired them to the panel without the insulators they created a
ground path, I had a similar situation but my plug shorted to ground. Do
you happen to have some spare jack insulators?
Harvey Sigmon RV-6A Flying
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Bryan" <tim(at)bryantechnology.com>
Subject: RV-List: Headphone Jacks
>
>
> Any radio gurus out there?
>
> First, since my panel was pre wired for me , I can't believe how much wire
I
> had to still run. But, it is all in and almost all terminated inside the
> airplane. I had originally planned on putting my headset jacks in the
back
> somewhere and therefore the wire was not connected to the jacks. I did
have
> the labeling for the wires.
>
> The question is this. I fired up my panel and turned on my SL15M first as
> part of my check out. The transmit light came on and stayed on. So after
> powering it down, I looked under the panel at my jacks to confirm nothing
> was touching accross the PTT leads or any other for that matter. Still no
> success, so I removed them from the panel and pluged my headsets in,
turned
> it on... Perfect. Of course turning my radio on next was most excellent
to
> hear Redmond tower.
>
> I installed the two insulators on the jacks, one front and one back. What
could be causing them to key up for transmit?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DRAGRRV6(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | rv-6---- opinions needed |
Fellow Builders ,
Before I make a big mistake ,I would like some opinions from you guys.
My problem is:: Due to my age and my Wife's physical and med. problems, and
lack of help, I feel I will never get to fly my RV. I want to fly now. Several
people have contacted me about my project, and some approached me about
trading my rv in on their airplane. I am considering trading it in on an old classic
[Stinson] but I'm not sure I am being offerd enough for my rv.
My RV;;;;rv-6
My project is just about in the quickbuilt stage or more. This is one of the
older kits before pre-punched.
Wings==finished except top skins are drilled & fitted but not riveted and
control rods not installed.
Tail Section== finished
Control surfaces all finished
Fuel tanks built but not sealed
Fuselage===The last work I did was installed the floor. as far as I can see ,
it is ready for seats, rudder pedals, cables ect.
The spars are factory built.
I do not have the finish kit.
I have an 0320 A2B--- this engine has not run since overhaul. I have temp.
misplaced the engine log and don't remember all details of the overhaul. I do
remember that total time was about 2800 hrs. I am sure I will locate the log.
This engine has been kept in a sealed dry atmosphere.The engine has no
accesories.
I know there are a lot of things involved in this but I would like some
opinions anb ballpark figures.
Thank you very much
h
Jim Callender
Hitchcock, texas
dragrrv6(at)aol.com
409 986-6289
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Headphone Jacks |
In case you need the jack insulator washers, B&C (http://www.bandc.biz)
sells 'em.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Harvey Sigmon" <rv6hes(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Headphone Jacks
>
> Tim : What happens is the jacks are suppose to be insulated from ground,
> when you wired them to the panel without the insulators they created a
> ground path, I had a similar situation but my plug shorted to ground. Do
> you happen to have some spare jack insulators?
> Harvey Sigmon RV-6A Flying
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Bryan" <tim(at)bryantechnology.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Headphone Jacks
>
>
> >
> >
> > Any radio gurus out there?
> >
> > First, since my panel was pre wired for me , I can't believe how much
wire
> I
> > had to still run. But, it is all in and almost all terminated inside
the
> > airplane. I had originally planned on putting my headset jacks in the
> back
> > somewhere and therefore the wire was not connected to the jacks. I did
> have
> > the labeling for the wires.
> >
> > The question is this. I fired up my panel and turned on my SL15M first
as
> > part of my check out. The transmit light came on and stayed on. So
after
> > powering it down, I looked under the panel at my jacks to confirm
nothing
> > was touching accross the PTT leads or any other for that matter. Still
no
> > success, so I removed them from the panel and pluged my headsets in,
> turned
> > it on... Perfect. Of course turning my radio on next was most excellent
> to
> > hear Redmond tower.
> >
> > I installed the two insulators on the jacks, one front and one back.
What
> could be causing them to key up for transmit?
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Headphone Jacks |
Guys,
The insulators on the jacks are NOT to prevent the mic ground/tx switching, but
to prevent ground loops and "noise" from enterring your audio path. If the jacks
and harness are wire correctly, they should work regardless if the jacks
are installed with our without the insulators. I've wired up lots of radios and
Intercoms, and many times things like this are an errant wire, or the mic jack
wired incorrectly. Don't take this note negatively, just want people to make
sure they aren't using the insulators to "band-aid" another potential problem.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6, N664SB
RV6, N64YU
http://www.steinair.com
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Harvey Sigmon" <rv6hes(at)comcast.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 19:36:45 -0400
>
>Tim : What happens is the jacks are suppose to be insulated from ground,
>when you wired them to the panel without the insulators they created a
>ground path, I had a similar situation but my plug shorted to ground. Do
>you happen to have some spare jack insulators?
>Harvey Sigmon RV-6A Flying
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Tim Bryan" <tim(at)bryantechnology.com>
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Headphone Jacks
>
>
>>
>>
>> Any radio gurus out there?
>>
>> First, since my panel was pre wired for me , I can't believe how much wire
>I
>> had to still run. But, it is all in and almost all terminated inside the
>> airplane. I had originally planned on putting my headset jacks in the
>back
>> somewhere and therefore the wire was not connected to the jacks. I did
>have
>> the labeling for the wires.
>>
>> The question is this. I fired up my panel and turned on my SL15M first as
>> part of my check out. The transmit light came on and stayed on. So after
>> powering it down, I looked under the panel at my jacks to confirm nothing
>> was touching accross the PTT leads or any other for that matter. Still no
>> success, so I removed them from the panel and pluged my headsets in,
>turned
>> it on... Perfect. Of course turning my radio on next was most excellent
>to
>> hear Redmond tower.
>>
>> I installed the two insulators on the jacks, one front and one back. What
>could be causing them to key up for transmit?
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon Robertson" <grobertson(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | RV6A project for sale |
Tom,
I tried to contact you at your listed email address iaretom(at)yahoo.com, but
it bounced. Please contact me at grobertson(at)verizon.net
Gordon Robertson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon Robertson" <grobertson(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cool Tool: For screws in to nut plates |
The best tool I have found for those millions of #8 phillips screws is a
flexible drive for my electric drill that takes 1/4 inch snap in hexagonal
tools. Then you just use regular #2 phillips bits.
The combination of the electric portable drill with torque adjustable chuck
and the flexible drive allows you to work very close to the side skins, is
fast, not likely to overtorque and strip the head, and avoids Carpal Tunnel
Syndrome.
The second most useful tool is a right angle drive (well actually about 60
degree drive) attachment, also takes 1/4 inch hex tools, and is used in the
electric drill. This allows a degree of push on the head of the screw, but
still can work close to the fuse edge skin.
I got both tools from Home Depot. About $20 each.
I used #8 screws for the floor panels in my RV8. Without these tools I
would have really been tempted to not take the floors out **AGAIN??!!** when
they needed to come out. It would have been too much effort to remove 110
screws. But with these tools it is a breeze
Gordon Robertson
RV8 - in storage while I move to the East Coast
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cool Tool: For screws in to nut plates |
Mack tools sells a clutch drive (not ratchet) with a 3 to 1 Ratio drive
feature. It has a special place in my shop.
As fast or faster than an electric drill, no cord, no batteries!,
interchangeable bits. Very handy!
Jim in Kelowna - I sure will be glad to get my RV back home,.. (sigh)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gordon Robertson" <grobertson(at)verizon.net>
Subject: RV-List: Re: Cool Tool: For screws in to nut plates
>
> The best tool I have found for those millions of #8 phillips screws is a
> flexible drive for my electric drill that takes 1/4 inch snap in hexagonal
> tools. Then you just use regular #2 phillips bits.
>
> The combination of the electric portable drill with torque adjustable
chuck
> and the flexible drive allows you to work very close to the side skins, is
> fast, not likely to overtorque and strip the head, and avoids Carpal
Tunnel
> Syndrome.
>
> The second most useful tool is a right angle drive (well actually about 60
> degree drive) attachment, also takes 1/4 inch hex tools, and is used in
the
> electric drill. This allows a degree of push on the head of the screw,
but
> still can work close to the fuse edge skin.
>
> I got both tools from Home Depot. About $20 each.
>
> I used #8 screws for the floor panels in my RV8. Without these tools I
> would have really been tempted to not take the floors out **AGAIN??!!**
when
> they needed to come out. It would have been too much effort to remove 110
> screws. But with these tools it is a breeze
>
>
> Gordon Robertson
> RV8 - in storage while I move to the East Coast
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Inst Panel Screws... |
Wicks Aircraft has a good selection of brass instrument screws with a black
oxide finish in both pan head and 100 degree flat head styles (both with
Phillips cross recess): MS24693-BBxx and MS35214-xx. Here are links to
catalog pages:
http://www.wicksaircraft.com/gotopage.php?page=92
http://www.wicksaircraft.com/gotopage.php?page=95
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
http://my.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
-----Original Message-----
Where's everyone getting their instrument panel screws?
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | E615PP Dimple or c-sink |
| From: | "" <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com> |
All,
Lots of differing views in the archives on this one, and I am trying to get it
straight in my head. I am attaching the nutplates to the trim re-inforcement
cover, and I am trying to determine the best method. Five holes of concern:
1) 2 nutplate rivet holes
2) 1 nutplate screw hole
3) 2 skin (615PP) nutplate rivet holes
4) 1 skin (615PP) nutplate screw hole
5) 1 cover screw hole
I'm not into dimpling nutplates or buying the dimpled variety, so I think my best
option would be:
* c-sink 3 and 4 (and use NAS rivets on 3)
* dimple 5 (and c-sink as needed to make screw flush)
* leave nutplates untouched
Does that make sense? Thanks in advance for the help.
Scott
7A Emp/Wings
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kirsten Lacy" <klacy(at)totalaccess.net> |
Hello, again...Jim Stugart's daughter (Kirsten, not Diana), here....
(and thank you, thank you, thank you... for all of the previous kind
words about Dad )
OK here goes...
I have been hearing recently about some of my Dad's friends, students,
cronies, Young Eagles, and hangers on....
They want to quit flying. OMG, a few are putting their RV's up for sale.
=46rom what I understand, the reasoning is... if this could happen to Dad (
the most meticulous, anal, perfectionist home-builder/instructor/pilot with
30 years experience, that there ever was )..well, I guess they think their
odds are not so good.
I might be speaking out of turn here, but since he can't speak for himself..
=2E I really believe Jim would hate this attitude. Well, not hate it..but not
be happy about it.
For 30 years, if the weather was agreeable, he was in the air. I can't even
guess how many hours he had. He knew of the constant risks, and did
everything in his power as a pilot to counteract those risks... Dad's love
of flying transcended all, I believe.
You all love what you do. Please, please...don't give up on it. This is
long and well used, but appropriate, I think. ( lol, I am sure you will
tell me if I'm wrong )
"High Flight"
Oh! I have slipped the surly bonds of earth
And danced the skies on laughter-silvered wings;
Sunward I've climbed, and joined the tumbling mirth
Of sun-split clouds - and done a hundred things
You have not dreamed of - wheeled and soared and swung
High in the sunlit silence. Hov'ring there,
I've chased the shouting wind along, and flung
My eager craft through footless halls of air.
Up, up the long, delirious, burning blue
I've topped the wind-swept heights with easy grace
Where never lark, or even eagle flew -
And, while with silent lifting mind I've trod
The high untrespassed sanctity of space,
Put out my hand and touched the face of God.
John Gillespie Magee, Jr.
Kirsten Stugart Lacy
Please Archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Where to mount Whelen power supply |
I'm wondering if anyone has some pictures or details where to mount the power supply
for a Whelen lighting system. It's the system Van's sells with a single
power supply unit.
As always, thanks for the great replies. Oh, I did search the archives and found
only a few who had mounted under the baggage compartment seat. Is this the best
spot?
Karie Daniel
Sammamish, WA
RV-7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6160hp(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | 9th Annual RV Forum, EAA486 Fulton NY |
Mark your calendars and plan to attend.
September 12, 2003 Friday night fly in, cook out and camp out. The EAA 486 General
meeting night too. September 13, 2003 Saturday technical seminars all day,
meals provided to paid attendee's. Then a nice dinner banquet with a presentation.
This year Mr. Kirk House, ex-Director Curator of the Glenn Cirtiss Museum
will talk about the books on Glenn he wrote, and how Glenn was the ultimate
Experimenter!
September 14, 2003 Sunday AM our great pancake breakfast and perhaps a coordinated
fly out for lunch, planes, weather and pilots willing.
see us at www.eaachapter486.com
We will be updating our site soon with the 2003 plans.
Last year over 56 RV's and 25 SPAM's flew in with over 150 attendee's. There was
Mike Seager and the Factory RV6 doing instruction and manufacturers like Lycoming
and Aerospace logic with tables displaying and selling their wares.
I could go on...but you get the picture...just ask some one who has been there
the $45 is easily worth it. Hope to See you all there.
Respectfully,
David McManmon
President EAA 486
RV6 Flying, Builder, Pilot N58DM
DNA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6160hp(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | KGED Delaware area? |
Listers,
May have to bust out of Oswego Co. (KFZY) 1 day early to KGED airport.
Have beach home invite Sunday on....
VFR forcast Sunday or Monday not favorable here then though...
Put me up for a night and we'll do an hour in the plane.
I'd gladly examine projects and/or visit with a group....
Open for suggestions...
Food for thought...replies appreciated off list at McManD(at)aol.com
Regards
David McManmon
President EAA 486
RV6 Flying, Builder, Pilot N58DM
see first flight at: www.eaachapter486.com
DNA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Where to mount Whelen power supply |
Hi Karie,
I have addressed the location of the Whelen power supplies on previous posts
and to answer your question re installing it under the seats (or baggage
compartment), from my experience, is the best place to put it because noise
radiation from the wiring is enclosed and shielded by the fuselage
structure. I don't know how the wiring kit came from Van's but the kit I
bought at OSH a few years back, had four Molex connectors with pig-tails
which must be spliced to the shielded wiring to the wings and tail (my case)
lights and the power supply wires. So the shielding integrity is interrupted
by these splices, therefore a noise source, which is contained within the
area.
The nice thing of putting the PS there is the wiring does not have to pass
through the wing spars, as it would if it is mounted in a forward area,
assuming, of course, that the wiring to the wing tips runs aft of the spar.
Make sure that the shields on the wires are grounded at the power supply end
ONLY!
Cheers!!------Henry Hore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dwpetrus(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Opting out... |
Well done Kristen, I also beleive as you do that Jim would have felt that way
too.
Wayne Petrus
RV8a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <tim(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Headphone Jacks |
Stein,
Thanks for the heads up on your comment. The AV guy labeled the cables and
individual wires for me, but I will double check that I didn't miss anything
Also, I used heat shrink on the wire when I connected them to the jack to
prevent anything stray. The Jacks are pretty vulnerable the way they are
designed of course. Also because of the proximity to each other, I wondered
if
they were touching when installed but couldn't see anything like that. Will
look further,
They seem to work perfect when not installed in the panel. Leads me to
think the PTT wire is connected to the outer ground ring. Well at least I
know what to look for.
Thanks
Tim
-------Original Message-------
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Tuesday, August 26, 2003 06:34:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Headphone Jacks
Guys,
The insulators on the jacks are NOT to prevent the mic ground/tx switching,
but to prevent ground loops and "noise" from enterring your audio path. If
the jacks and harness are wire correctly, they should work regardless if the
jacks are installed with our without the insulators. I've wired up lots of
radios and Intercoms, and many times things like this are an errant wire, or
the mic jack wired incorrectly. Don't take this note negatively, just want
people to make sure they aren't using the insulators to "band-aid" another
potential problem.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6, N664SB
RV6, N64YU
http://www.steinair.com
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Harvey Sigmon" <rv6hes(at)comcast.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 19:36:45 -0400
>
>Tim : What happens is the jacks are suppose to be insulated from ground,
>when you wired them to the panel without the insulators they created a
>ground path, I had a similar situation but my plug shorted to ground. Do
>you happen to have some spare jack insulators?
>Harvey Sigmon RV-6A Flying
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Tim Bryan" <tim(at)bryantechnology.com>
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Headphone Jacks
>
>
>>
>>
>> Any radio gurus out there?
>>
>> First, since my panel was pre wired for me , I can't believe how much
wire
>I
>> had to still run. But, it is all in and almost all terminated inside the
>> airplane. I had originally planned on putting my headset jacks in the
>back
>> somewhere and therefore the wire was not connected to the jacks. I did
>have
>> the labeling for the wires.
>>
>> The question is this. I fired up my panel and turned on my SL15M first as
>> part of my check out. The transmit light came on and stayed on. So after
>> powering it down, I looked under the panel at my jacks to confirm nothing
>> was touching accross the PTT leads or any other for that matter. Still no
>> success, so I removed them from the panel and pluged my headsets in,
>turned
>> it on... Perfect. Of course turning my radio on next was most excellent
>to
>> hear Redmond tower.
>>
>> I installed the two insulators on the jacks, one front and one back. What
>could be causing them to key up for transmit?
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Where to mount Whelen power supply |
Before you mount the power supply (or anything else) under the seat,
consider that this is a crumple zone in the event of a crash/hard landing
and whether you would want that object in intimate contact with your
posterior. (Fill-in your own bad jokes here;-)
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
> I have addressed the location of the Whelen power supplies on
> previous posts and to answer your question re installing it
> under the seats (or baggage compartment), from my experience,
> is the best place to put it because noise radiation from the
> wiring is enclosed and shielded by the fuselage structure. I
> don't know how the wiring kit came from Van's but the kit I
> bought at OSH a few years back, had four Molex connectors
> with pig-tails which must be spliced to the shielded wiring
> to the wings and tail (my case) lights and the power supply
> wires. So the shielding integrity is interrupted by these
> splices, therefore a noise source, which is contained within the area.
>
> The nice thing of putting the PS there is the wiring does not
> have to pass through the wing spars, as it would if it is
> mounted in a forward area, assuming, of course, that the
> wiring to the wing tips runs aft of the spar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Night Vision |
> I was just reading the AOPA Pilot magazine article on night flight. Has
> anyone used night vision goggles to tell the difference between forest
> and field at night? I am talking about surplus type of goggle like the
> Harbor freight import.
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=47626
> Would such a goggle be of any use for improving safety of night flight?
I've used generation 1, 2 and 3 goggles. There are several issues with them.
The early models have poor resolution and light intensifying capability.
Since you are looking at a tv screen and not at the actual image the
resolution is very important. Cheap models (Costco, Harbor Freight, Sam's
etc.) usually are gen 1 and do not work well. Gen 1 is 1960s technology,
can you imagine using a 1960s computer today? Gen 2 are a big improvement
over gen 1 but still are not real great. They are Desert Storm vintage.
Same deal. Could you stand to use a 1980's computer? The close up
resolution is good but the poor light gathering and intensification make
distance resolution tough. Gen 3 are daylight vision with great resolution.
They work as you might imagine night vision should. The earlier models are
not that useful. Since you are looking at a bright tv screen you can kiss
your night vision goodbye when you take the goggles off. The field of view
is very limited. The focus is adjustable, but you can only see near or
far... With the focus adjusted to see the ground, you can not read the
instrument panel or visa versa. The goggles I'm familiar with are not fast
to change the focus on. With mine you can set one eye to close focus and
one to far. This can let you see your instruments and the ground with
monovision. You can't do that with the single tube models. Here is a link
to the company I have dealt with for years. I've been happy with their
service and they have saved me a ton of money on parts and pieces to do
upgrades and repairs of my equipment.
http://www.stano.night-vision.com/html/nvg.html
It would be interesting to try flying with them as a passenger to explore
the usefulness. I'm not sure I'd survive an attempted landing wearing them
without significant training and another pilot to help fly the plane...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Where to mount Whelen power supply |
Karie, you should also consider installing the power supply aft of the
baggage compartment in the vicinity of the bellcrank. I built a little
platform in this area for the ELT and strobe p/s. Easy to get to.
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 QB (Building)
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Where to mount Whelen power supply
>
> I'm wondering if anyone has some pictures or details where to mount the
power supply for a Whelen lighting system. It's the system Van's sells with
a single power supply unit.
>
> As always, thanks for the great replies. Oh, I did search the archives and
found only a few who had mounted under the baggage compartment seat. Is this
the best spot?
>
> Karie Daniel
> Sammamish, WA
> RV-7A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 37 Msgs - 08/26/03 |
Repeating a hint on anchor nuts: They can be "conditioned" by driving a
greased socket set screw though them ether before they are installed or after they
are in place. A high quality socket head set screw is a class 3 thread
which is slightly larger than the class 2 AN screws. I have used this trick for
years with good success. There is still plenty of locking torque remaining and
galling is no problem. Don't even think of tapping them!
A second thought: There is a type of tap that forms a thread rather than
cutting it. They are sometimes calle X-press taps. They will not remove any
matwerial but will relieve some of the excess interference. FWIW, I have NOT
tried them, have always used the set screw technique. Paul S.
Petersen, RV6A, 95% done, 50% to go!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Where to mount Whelen power supply |
I agree with Pat. Having the strobe power supply in the cabin just takes up
precious baggage space...and for some reason I would not want to expose the
power supply to people accidentally touching it and getting zapped (even
though I know that possibility is highly unlikely...just a psychological
thing).
Here are some photos of my strobe power supply installation just aft of
F-706 (baggage bulkhead):
http://rvproject.com/images/2003/20030525_strobe_brackets.jpg
http://rvproject.com/images/2003/20030525_power_supply_mounted.jpg
http://rvproject.com/images/2003/20030611_strobe_power_supply.jpg
And here's where I installed my ELT, for reference:
http://rvproject.com/images/2003/20030603_elt_installed.jpg
It's at the aft end of the bellcrank support rib, just fwd of F-707.
Hope this helps,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Where to mount Whelen power supply
>
> Karie, you should also consider installing the power supply aft of the
> baggage compartment in the vicinity of the bellcrank. I built a little
> platform in this area for the ELT and strobe p/s. Easy to get to.
>
> Pat Hatch
> RV-4
> RV-6
> RV-7 QB (Building)
> Vero Beach, FL
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Where to mount Whelen power supply
>
>
> >
> > I'm wondering if anyone has some pictures or details where to mount the
> power supply for a Whelen lighting system. It's the system Van's sells
with
> a single power supply unit.
> >
> > As always, thanks for the great replies. Oh, I did search the archives
and
> found only a few who had mounted under the baggage compartment seat. Is
this
> the best spot?
> >
> > Karie Daniel
> > Sammamish, WA
> > RV-7A
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Where to mount Whelen power supply |
You make a good point. My main concern though with mounting it under the
seat or baggage compartment is that the power supply has to put off a fair
amount of heat when being used. I'm not sure I want heated seats! The pics
I've seen of the baggage compartment mounting look good though.
BTW... I have recieved several e-mails with great pics and suggestions.
Thank you all!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Where to mount Whelen power supply
>
> Before you mount the power supply (or anything else) under the seat,
> consider that this is a crumple zone in the event of a crash/hard landing
> and whether you would want that object in intimate contact with your
> posterior. (Fill-in your own bad jokes here;-)
>
> Regards,
> Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
> RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
> Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
>
>
> > I have addressed the location of the Whelen power supplies on
> > previous posts and to answer your question re installing it
> > under the seats (or baggage compartment), from my experience,
> > is the best place to put it because noise radiation from the
> > wiring is enclosed and shielded by the fuselage structure. I
> > don't know how the wiring kit came from Van's but the kit I
> > bought at OSH a few years back, had four Molex connectors
> > with pig-tails which must be spliced to the shielded wiring
> > to the wings and tail (my case) lights and the power supply
> > wires. So the shielding integrity is interrupted by these
> > splices, therefore a noise source, which is contained within the area.
> >
> > The nice thing of putting the PS there is the wiring does not
> > have to pass through the wing spars, as it would if it is
> > mounted in a forward area, assuming, of course, that the
> > wiring to the wing tips runs aft of the spar.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matt Smith" <viperpilot(at)usa.com> |
| Subject: | RV aerobatics techniques and speeds |
Does anyone know of a good source for RV model specific entry speeds and attitudes
for basic sport aerobatics? Specifically for a 6A.
Also, if anyone knows of a good aerobatics instructor within a hundred miles or
so of Lexington, KY, that would be great also.
Thanks,
Matt
RV6A
--
Sign-up for your own personalized E-mail at Mail.com
CareerBuilder.com has over 400,000 jobs. Be smarter about your job search
http://corp.mail.com/careers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
I'm getting ready to order tools (to build a -10) and planning to get
the Avery RV kit. Is there anything that I should include or exclude
from the standard kit?
BTW, thanks to all who replied to my earlier post about air compressors.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mstewart(at)qa.butler.com |
| Subject: | RV aerobatics techniques and speeds |
autolearn=ham version=2.53
I have some aerobatic speeds listed on my POH.
You can d/l it from my website.
http://www.mstewart.net/michael/rv/index.htm
cheers,
Mike Stewart
-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Smith [mailto:viperpilot(at)usa.com]
Subject: RV-List: RV aerobatics techniques and speeds
Does anyone know of a good source for RV model specific entry speeds and
attitudes for basic sport aerobatics? Specifically for a 6A.
Also, if anyone knows of a good aerobatics instructor within a hundred miles
or so of Lexington, KY, that would be great also.
Thanks,
Matt
RV6A
--
Sign-up for your own personalized E-mail at Mail.com
CareerBuilder.com has over 400,000 jobs. Be smarter about your job search
http://corp.mail.com/careers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Archer VOR antenna and Garmin 430 |
OK, so I should read the installation instructions first....but
they're, like 300 pages (and they're at the hangar, I'm not), so I
have a stupid question.
In looking at the archives, I see people using the Archer's VOR
wingtip antenna for localizer and glide slope. But my new (oh, boy!)
430 that I'm installing in my RV-6 has 2 bnc connectors in the back
of the unit, one labled NAV, and the other G/S.
What gives. Do I need a splitter or something.
Give me a structures problem, no sweat, but these electrons hurt my head....
Laird
RV-6 SoCal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Re: [SoCAL-RVlist] Re: Archer VOR antenna and Garmin 430 |
OK, I see the little bugger I need. Thanks!
>Laird,
>Spruce has the splitter you need. I have the same setup you are
>installing (it works great).
>Robert
>
>
>--- In SoCAL-RVlist(at)yahoogroups.com, Laird Owens wrote:
>> OK, so I should read the installation instructions first....but
>> they're, like 300 pages (and they're at the hangar, I'm not), so I
>> have a stupid question.
>>
>> In looking at the archives, I see people using the Archer's VOR
>> wingtip antenna for localizer and glide slope. But my new (oh,
>boy!)
>> 430 that I'm installing in my RV-6 has 2 bnc connectors in the
>back
>> of the unit, one labled NAV, and the other G/S.
>>
>> What gives. Do I need a splitter or something.
>>
>> Give me a structures problem, no sweat, but these electrons hurt
>my head....
>>
>> Laird
>> RV-6 WHP
>
>ADVERTISEMENT
><http://rd.yahoo.com/M=251812.3170658.4537139.1261774/D=egroupweb/S=1705065618:HM/A=1693352/R=0/SIG=11tralmvc/*http://www.netflix.com/Default?mqso=60178293&partid=3170658>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>socal-rvlist-unsubscribe(at)yahoogroups.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca> |
| Subject: | RV aerobatics techniques and speeds |
Subject: RV-List: RV aerobatics techniques and speeds
Does anyone know of a good source for RV model specific entry speeds and
attitudes for basic sport aerobatics? Specifically for a 6A.
Also, if anyone knows of a good aerobatics instructor within a hundred miles
or so of Lexington, KY, that would be great also.
Thanks,
Matt
RV6A
Entry speeds are listed in RV-6A building instructions Section 15, page 25.
George McNutt
Langley B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Archer VOR antenna and Garmin 430 |
Laird,
Yes, you need either an additional antenna for the GS or a splitter to
separate the VOR/LOC and the GS from your VOR antenna.
I have a 430 and a splitter connected to a "cat's whisker" antenna atop
my vertical stab.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
-6A finishing details
Laird Owens wrote:
>
>
> OK, so I should read the installation instructions first....but
> they're, like 300 pages (and they're at the hangar, I'm not), so I
> have a stupid question.
>
> In looking at the archives, I see people using the Archer's VOR
> wingtip antenna for localizer and glide slope. But my new (oh, boy!)
> 430 that I'm installing in my RV-6 has 2 bnc connectors in the back
> of the unit, one labled NAV, and the other G/S.
>
> What gives. Do I need a splitter or something.
>
> Give me a structures problem, no sweat, but these electrons hurt my head....
>
> Laird
> RV-6 SoCal
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Dynon releases EFIS-D10 Magnetic Calibration Program |
Dynon Avionics is pleased to announce the availability of the EFIS-D10 in-
panel Magnetic Calibration Program and instructions. Owners of the EFIS-D10
can now calibrate the magnetic sensors internal to the EFIS-D10 to improve
the accuracy of the heading displayed on the EFIS-D10. This calibration
procedure applies only to EFIS-D10 stand-alone installations. Customers who
have installed the EDC-D10 Electronic Digital Compass module should not
perform this calibration.
The program and instructions can be downloaded from our web site at
www.dynonavionics.com.
Doug Medema
Dynon Avionics
RV-6A N276DM (reserved) working on pre-inspection paper-work.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David R. Cook" <davercook(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Access to bolts to VS to fuse. |
Listers
Stupid question 932. How do you get to the nuts on the inside of the fuse that
hold the bottom of the vertical stab to the fuse. I guess I made the access hole
to small to get my fist into. The cover plate is 2&1/2 by 3&1/4. I'm in the
process of drilling the top holes but I need to snug up the bottom bolts to get
the VS to lie flat. Of coarse I will need to get to the bolts latter anyhow.
Thanks Dave Cook
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Night Vision |
In about 8 weeks, I start night vision goggle training in an OH-58. I'll
have about 20 hours of night flight with goggles on. Not sure what
generation we use here in the Army. I'd be happy to provide feedback when I
get through at the end of November.
My experience with goggles are they are horrible for depth perception. I've
driven with them. Can't imaging flying with them. Night flight is truly
enjoyable, and doesn't need to be ruined by looking at fuzzy green light.
IMHO, fly IFR altitudes (if not IFR flight plan) and enjoy the ride.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Night Vision
>
>
> > I was just reading the AOPA Pilot magazine article on night flight. Has
> > anyone used night vision goggles to tell the difference between forest
> > and field at night? I am talking about surplus type of goggle like the
> > Harbor freight import.
> > http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=47626
> > Would such a goggle be of any use for improving safety of night flight?
>
> I've used generation 1, 2 and 3 goggles. There are several issues with
them.
> The early models have poor resolution and light intensifying capability.
> Since you are looking at a tv screen and not at the actual image the
> resolution is very important. Cheap models (Costco, Harbor Freight, Sam's
> etc.) usually are gen 1 and do not work well. Gen 1 is 1960s technology,
> can you imagine using a 1960s computer today? Gen 2 are a big improvement
> over gen 1 but still are not real great. They are Desert Storm vintage.
> Same deal. Could you stand to use a 1980's computer? The close up
> resolution is good but the poor light gathering and intensification make
> distance resolution tough. Gen 3 are daylight vision with great
resolution.
> They work as you might imagine night vision should. The earlier models
are
> not that useful. Since you are looking at a bright tv screen you can kiss
> your night vision goodbye when you take the goggles off. The field of
view
> is very limited. The focus is adjustable, but you can only see near or
> far... With the focus adjusted to see the ground, you can not read the
> instrument panel or visa versa. The goggles I'm familiar with are not
fast
> to change the focus on. With mine you can set one eye to close focus and
> one to far. This can let you see your instruments and the ground with
> monovision. You can't do that with the single tube models. Here is a
link
> to the company I have dealt with for years. I've been happy with their
> service and they have saved me a ton of money on parts and pieces to do
> upgrades and repairs of my equipment.
>
> http://www.stano.night-vision.com/html/nvg.html
>
> It would be interesting to try flying with them as a passenger to explore
> the usefulness. I'm not sure I'd survive an attempted landing wearing
them
> without significant training and another pilot to help fly the plane...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Walker" <ron(at)walker.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ordering Tools |
If you have the empennage already completed, you do not need the jig
brackets - they will credit the price against the kit price.
As for anything additional -- the Longeron yoke on either the hand squeezer
or a pneumatic squeezer will go a loooooooong way.
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Subject: RV-List: Ordering Tools
>
> I'm getting ready to order tools (to build a -10) and planning to get
> the Avery RV kit. Is there anything that I should include or exclude
> from the standard kit?
>
> BTW, thanks to all who replied to my earlier post about air compressors.
>
> Bob
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Aeroflash vs. Whelen Strobes |
| From: | "" <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com> |
Speaking of strobes...are there any advantages of the Whelan over the Aeroflash?
It seems that the Aeroflash offer a significant price savings. Given that
the Aeroflash are not PMA'd (and don't carry the price premium), they would be
the "experimental" aircraft owners choice. Are those with the Aeroflash happy
customers?
Thanks,
Scott
7A Emp/Wings
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:Aeroflash vs. Whelen Strobes |
Chech out > http://strobesnmore.com/
I biught Whelen power supply and 4 strobe units with cables for $199. They
aren't WX proof and I used a clear glass teardrop light from ebay and built my
own strobe/tailight units for 5 bucks or so.
Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
Charleston, Arkansas
"Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Pedersen" <wayne(at)pedersentransport.com> |
| Subject: | fuel flo sensor and high pressure fuel pump |
I am starting to plumb the high pressure fuel pump and the fuel flo
transducer that hooks to my IK2000 engine monitor. Any one have experience
on how to keep the transducer 12 inches away from the pump, after the filter
and on the suction side ? Im getting lots of slivers scratching my head on
this one.
Thanks
Wayne
S.Alberta
RV 7a IO-360
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV Aerobatic Speeds |
In my experience: DON"T EVER split"S" at anything over 100 MPH. I came
whistling out the bottom WAAAY past redline once - Just Once !
An RV aerobatic instructor might just save some gray hair.
Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
Charleston, Arkansas
"Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers"
________________________________________________________________________________
Agree to both and if you can afford it get the pneumatic squeezer! Order
more cleo's than you think you'll need (they're cheap and totally worth
every penny).
I love my Sioux drill. That and the pneumatic you'd have to pry from my
cold dead hands. If I had it to do over again (and I may still do it yet)
I'd get the new C Frame dimpler by Experimental Aero
(http://experimentalaero.com/drdt-1.htm).
I already have the regular c-frame from Avery and like it. That's probably
the only diversion from Avery I'd make. I can sure see where the new design
might be beneficial though!
Good luck!
Bob Hassel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ron Walker
Subject: Re: RV-List: Ordering Tools
If you have the empennage already completed, you do not need the jig
brackets - they will credit the price against the kit price.
As for anything additional -- the Longeron yoke on either the hand squeezer
or a pneumatic squeezer will go a loooooooong way.
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Subject: RV-List: Ordering Tools
>
> I'm getting ready to order tools (to build a -10) and planning to get
> the Avery RV kit. Is there anything that I should include or exclude
> from the standard kit?
>
> BTW, thanks to all who replied to my earlier post about air compressors.
>
> Bob
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Aerobatic Speeds |
As an adder to Bob's point, I also recall Mike Seager saying something very
similar.
I think he used 80 or so KNOTS (92 MPH????). He was **VERY** insistent about
this point.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> Oldsfolks(at)aol.com
> Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2003 10:41 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Re: RV Aerobatic Speeds
>
>
> In my experience: DON"T EVER split"S" at anything over 100 MPH. I came
> whistling out the bottom WAAAY past redline once - Just Once !
> An RV aerobatic instructor might just save some gray hair.
>
>
> Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
> RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
> Charleston, Arkansas
> "Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers"
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian W. Truitt" <b-l-t(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Exporting / Importing to the States |
Can anyone direct me to a site or provide information for importing a completed
and flying RV-7 into the States? In searching the FAA site I can find lots
for a "certified" aircraft but nothing for a "homebuilt". I have the Canadian
exporting information which looks quite straight foreward. As a homebuilt I
do not believe an Export C of A will be required. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Brian W. Truitt RV-7 C-GZXM
Courtenay BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel flo sensor and high pressure fuel pump |
http://www.rvproject.com/20030520.html
That page shows where I ended up mounting my fuel flow transducer (for the
ACS2002, I assume it's more or less the same deal). I was told to have a
straight stretch of at least 5" before the transducer, with no elbows on
either end, and with the "wires pointing up."
You can see the spot I chose in the photos on the page above...it's located
right in front of the AFP pump/filter contraption on the floor, in the
middle of the tubing run from the pump up to the firewall. It took some
minor tweaking of the pump housing, but no big deal.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne Pedersen" <wayne(at)pedersentransport.com>
Subject: RV-List: fuel flo sensor and high pressure fuel pump
>
> I am starting to plumb the high pressure fuel pump and the fuel flo
> transducer that hooks to my IK2000 engine monitor. Any one have
experience
> on how to keep the transducer 12 inches away from the pump, after the
filter
> and on the suction side ? Im getting lots of slivers scratching my head
on
> this one.
>
> Thanks
>
> Wayne
> S.Alberta
> RV 7a IO-360
> ---
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Phillips <ripsteel(at)edge.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Access to bolts to VS to fuse. |
Hi Dave-
Another of those tools I wish I'd bought early in the building process were various
sized forceps- using these to hold the washers & nuts plus various 1/4" drive
extensions & universal joints will get to just about any "unreachable" location.
I bought a variety of them from a Fly Market vendor at OSH last year
and they have proven extremely useful. You'll also need one of those little
magnets on a telescoping arm tools (does this thing have a name?!) for the inevitable
dropped hardware...
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark -6A - running wires!!!
"David R. Cook" wrote:
>
> Listers
> Stupid question 932. How do you get to the nuts on the inside of the fuse that
hold the bottom of the vertical stab to the fuse. I guess I made the access
hole to small to get my fist into. The cover plate is 2&1/2 by 3&1/4. I'm in the
process of drilling the top holes but I need to snug up the bottom bolts to
get the VS to lie flat. Of coarse I will need to get to the bolts latter anyhow.
> Thanks Dave Cook
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Len Leggette" <len(at)jessicacharles.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV aerobatics techniques and speeds |
----- Original Message -----
From: Matt Smith <viperpilot(at)usa.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV aerobatics techniques and speeds
>
> Does anyone know of a good source for RV model specific entry speeds and
attitudes for basic sport aerobatics? Specifically for a 6A.
>
> Also, if anyone knows of a good aerobatics instructor within a hundred
miles or so of Lexington, KY, that would be great also.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Matt
> RV6A
>
Matt:
Adam Cope in the DC area is a very good instructor. He went to aviation
school at Averett College in Danville, Va and will also come to you in his
Citabria for ferrying fee.
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, NC N910LL
132 hrs
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Birkelbach" <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aeroflash vs. Whelen Strobes |
You could also think about using a Nova power supply. It will drive all the
Whelen heads, it costs less, it has at least the same power output, it costs
less, it uses the same wiring connectors, it costs less and it has more
features. Oh did I mention it costs less.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Canopy
http://www.myrv7.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com>
Subject: RV-List: Aeroflash vs. Whelen Strobes
>
>
> Speaking of strobes...are there any advantages of the Whelan over the
Aeroflash? It seems that the Aeroflash offer a significant price savings.
Given that the Aeroflash are not PMA'd (and don't carry the price premium),
they would be the "experimental" aircraft owners choice. Are those with the
Aeroflash happy customers?
>
> Thanks,
> Scott
> 7A Emp/Wings
>
>
> Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
> The most personalized portal on the Web!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot selection (long) |
>
>Sorry to bring up an old topic that's been beat to death, but I'm
>really stuck on this one.
>
>I had planned on using the Gretz pitot mount with the Dynon pitot
>for AOA. I've since decided to use the PSS AOA so I won't need
>Dynon's pitot.
>
>I've read through the archives about this topic and looked at many
>builder's websites. It seems many are using the Gretz because of the
>ability to install a heated pitot for IFR operations. Someone also
>mentioned that a heated pitot is not a requirement and their is no
>other deicing equipment on an RV. I also remember having a heated
>pitot in the C172 I used for my IFR ticket and it didn't have any
>other form of deicing equipment. I guess if you started getting ice
>on the wings it would be nice to have an accurate airspeed indicator
>so you don't stall trying to maintain altitude.
>
>In my case I don't plan to do any serious IFR. My airplane will be
>technically legal for IFR ops, but that's for a "just in case"
>scenario.
>
>In my case it seems to boil down to cost vs. looks vs. installation
>complexity so Van's standard pitot seems to be the winner. If I'm
>missing something please let me know.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Ken
>RV-8 wings (still!)
>
While we are not required to follow FAR 23, it certainly is worth
considering what it says, as usually the requirements followed
accidents. FAR 23.1323 was amended in 1991 to include:
"If certification for instrument flight rules or flight in icing
conditions is requested, each airspeed system must have a heated
pitot tube or an equivalent means of preventing malfunction due to
icing."
If you plan to fly IFR above the freezing level, I would recommend a
heated pitot tube.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <tim(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Access to bolts to VS to fuse. |
The dropped hardware in that area of the fuse does have a name. As long
as nobody is listening.
Even with the magnet tool, it's pretty tough to get to alot of areas in
that space. But, You can do it.
Tim Bryan
RV-6 N616TB
-------Original Message-------
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Thursday, August 28, 2003 05:38:39 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Access to bolts to VS to fuse.
Hi Dave-
Another of those tools I wish I'd bought early in the building process were
various sized forceps- using these to hold the washers & nuts plus various
1/4" drive extensions & universal joints will get to just about any
unreachable" location. I bought a variety of them from a Fly Market vendor
at OSH last year and they have proven extremely useful. You'll also need one
of those little
magnets on a telescoping arm tools (does this thing have a name?!) for the
inevitable dropped hardware...
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark -6A - running wires!!!
"David R. Cook" wrote:
>
> Listers
> Stupid question 932. How do you get to the nuts on the inside of the fuse
that hold the bottom of the vertical stab to the fuse. I guess I made the
access hole to small to get my fist into. The cover plate is 2&1/2 by 3&1/4.
I'm in the process of drilling the top holes but I need to snug up the
bottom bolts to get the VS to lie flat. Of coarse I will need to get to the
bolts latter anyhow.
> Thanks Dave Cook
>
.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exporting / Importing to the States |
Brian,
The best thing to do is get the aircraft to its final location first, then
turn in the airworthiness certificate and get the aircraft de-registered
from Canada. Then you will need to get the aircraft registered in the US
and get a 'N' number. From there you contact your local FSDO or a DAR and
they will conduct the inspection and issue a new airworthiness certificate.
If you have any questions feel free to call me at (503) 681-5537.
Mike Robertson
Das Fed
>From: "Brian W. Truitt" <b-l-t(at)shaw.ca>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Exporting / Importing to the States
>Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 21:54:49 -0700
>
>
>Can anyone direct me to a site or provide information for importing a
>completed and flying RV-7 into the States? In searching the FAA site I
>can find lots for a "certified" aircraft but nothing for a "homebuilt". I
>have the Canadian exporting information which looks quite straight
>foreward. As a homebuilt I do not believe an Export C of A will be
>required. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
>Brian W. Truitt RV-7 C-GZXM
>Courtenay BC
>
>
Get MSN 8 and help protect your children with advanced parental controls.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <tim(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot selection (long) |
If you plan to fly IFR above the freezing level, I would recommend a
heated pitot tube.
I would add, this would be pretty important for VFR as well. Have personal
experience.
Tim Bryan
RV-6
-------Original Message-------
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Thursday, August 28, 2003 07:44:30 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Pitot selection (long)
>
>Sorry to bring up an old topic that's been beat to death, but I'm
>really stuck on this one.
>
>I had planned on using the Gretz pitot mount with the Dynon pitot
>for AOA. I've since decided to use the PSS AOA so I won't need
>Dynon's pitot.
>
>I've read through the archives about this topic and looked at many
>builder's websites. It seems many are using the Gretz because of the
>ability to install a heated pitot for IFR operations. Someone also
>mentioned that a heated pitot is not a requirement and their is no
>other deicing equipment on an RV. I also remember having a heated
>pitot in the C172 I used for my IFR ticket and it didn't have any
>other form of deicing equipment. I guess if you started getting ice
>on the wings it would be nice to have an accurate airspeed indicator
>so you don't stall trying to maintain altitude.
>
>In my case I don't plan to do any serious IFR. My airplane will be
>technically legal for IFR ops, but that's for a "just in case"
>scenario.
>
>In my case it seems to boil down to cost vs. looks vs. installation
>complexity so Van's standard pitot seems to be the winner. If I'm
>missing something please let me know.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Ken
>RV-8 wings (still!)
>
While we are not required to follow FAR 23, it certainly is worth
considering what it says, as usually the requirements followed
accidents. FAR 23.1323 was amended in 1991 to include:
"If certification for instrument flight rules or flight in icing
conditions is requested, each airspeed system must have a heated
pitot tube or an equivalent means of preventing malfunction due to
icing."
If you plan to fly IFR above the freezing level, I would recommend a
heated pitot tube.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Archer VOR antenna and Garmin 430 |
Thanks Richard.
>
>Laird,
>
>Yes, you need either an additional antenna for the GS or a splitter to
>separate the VOR/LOC and the GS from your VOR antenna.
>
>I have a 430 and a splitter connected to a "cat's whisker" antenna atop
>my vertical stab.
>
>Regards,
>
>Richard Dudley
>-6A finishing details
>
>Laird Owens wrote:
>>
>>
>> OK, so I should read the installation instructions first....but
>> they're, like 300 pages (and they're at the hangar, I'm not), so I
>> have a stupid question.
>>
>> In looking at the archives, I see people using the Archer's VOR
>> wingtip antenna for localizer and glide slope. But my new (oh, boy!)
>> 430 that I'm installing in my RV-6 has 2 bnc connectors in the back
>> of the unit, one labled NAV, and the other G/S.
>>
>> What gives. Do I need a splitter or something.
>>
>> Give me a structures problem, no sweat, but these electrons hurt my head....
>>
>> Laird
>> RV-6 SoCal
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Access to bolts to VS to fuse. |
I've been watching this thread to see if anyone did what I did. I'm
building an RV-6. The quickbuild fuselage kit has this small-ish
rectangular hole at the very aft that the VS spar goes down into, and the
tailwheel "spring" (steel rod) goes in the bottom of that area and was
already bolted to the bulkhead forming the fwd part of this "aft-most
compartment". That is what we are talking about, right?
I pondered for months and finally took a round rasp file land slightly
widened the hole until I could get one hand down in there - I'm 6'4 and have
hands of proportionate size.
- This is with the rudder & elevators removed and the elevator stops
removed - just the HS & VS installed.
"Eyeball engineering" tells me I haven't critically weakened the structure
by doing this.
If anyone thinks I have exceeded rational bounds, I could reduce the size of
the hole and/or install a doubler around the wider hole to restore strength,
after having done all the nut and bolt work down inside that is required.
David Carter
Nederland, Texasd
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Bryan" <tim(at)bryantechnology.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Access to bolts to VS to fuse.
>
> The dropped hardware in that area of the fuse does have a name. As long
> as nobody is listening.
> Even with the magnet tool, it's pretty tough to get to alot of areas in
> that space. But, You can do it.
>
> Tim Bryan
> RV-6 N616TB
>
>
> -------Original Message-------
>
> From: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Thursday, August 28, 2003 05:38:39 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Access to bolts to VS to fuse.
>
>
> Hi Dave-
>
> Another of those tools I wish I'd bought early in the building process
were
> various sized forceps- using these to hold the washers & nuts plus various
> 1/4" drive extensions & universal joints will get to just about any
> unreachable" location. I bought a variety of them from a Fly Market vendor
> at OSH last year and they have proven extremely useful. You'll also need
one
> of those little
> magnets on a telescoping arm tools (does this thing have a name?!) for the
> inevitable dropped hardware...
>
> >From The PossumWorks in TN
> Mark -6A - running wires!!!
>
> "David R. Cook" wrote:
>
> >
> > Listers
> > Stupid question 932. How do you get to the nuts on the inside of the
fuse
> that hold the bottom of the vertical stab to the fuse. I guess I made the
> access hole to small to get my fist into. The cover plate is 2&1/2 by
3&1/4.
> I'm in the process of drilling the top holes but I need to snug up the
> bottom bolts to get the VS to lie flat. Of coarse I will need to get to
the
> bolts latter anyhow.
> > Thanks Dave Cook
> >
>
>
> ..
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
| From: | Steve Harris <harriss(at)esi.com> |
Subject: How many Dynons are actually flyiing?
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 09:09:26 -0700
Folks,
I've seen positive reviews by a couple of people flying with Dynons and a
LOT of traffic with people that have purchased but not yet flying.
I've been flying with one and been having some apparently somewhat unique
problems. I would like to hear from folks that are actually flying and if
they have seen any issues.
I do want to point out that Dynon has been absolutely great to work with --
very responsive and helpful in trying to work out the issue and they have
shipped me two different units to try. I am absolutely sold on the unit if
we can work through the problems and have been very pleased with the
customer service and responsiveness.
Steve Harris
N144SH
RV-4 ~165 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Access to bolts to VS to fuse. |
This tip from a professional airline mechanic friend who helped with my -6A.
Crazy glue the washer (if using one) to the nut and then glue (lightly) the
nut to the end of your finger to manipulate it into place and get the
threads started. Pull gently to detach nut from finger. Apply socket, etc to
tighten.
If squeamish about gluing things to your fingertips, a few turns of duct
tape or masking tape around your finger with the sticky side out will work
too.
RV-6A builders will need to learn some extra tricks and words when they deal
with the spar-gear mount bolts as they put their wings on.
Jim Oke
Winnipeg, MB
RV-6A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Bryan" <tim(at)bryantechnology.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Access to bolts to VS to fuse.
>
> The dropped hardware in that area of the fuse does have a name. As long
> as nobody is listening.
> Even with the magnet tool, it's pretty tough to get to alot of areas in
> that space. But, You can do it.
>
> Tim Bryan
> RV-6 N616TB
>
>
> -------Original Message-------
>
> From: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Thursday, August 28, 2003 05:38:39 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Access to bolts to VS to fuse.
>
>
> Hi Dave-
>
> Another of those tools I wish I'd bought early in the building process
were
> various sized forceps- using these to hold the washers & nuts plus various
> 1/4" drive extensions & universal joints will get to just about any
> unreachable" location. I bought a variety of them from a Fly Market vendor
> at OSH last year and they have proven extremely useful. You'll also need
one
> of those little
> magnets on a telescoping arm tools (does this thing have a name?!) for the
> inevitable dropped hardware...
>
> From The PossumWorks in TN
> Mark -6A - running wires!!!
>
> "David R. Cook" wrote:
>
> >
> > Listers
> > Stupid question 932. How do you get to the nuts on the inside of the
fuse
> that hold the bottom of the vertical stab to the fuse. I guess I made the
> access hole to small to get my fist into. The cover plate is 2&1/2 by
3&1/4.
> I'm in the process of drilling the top holes but I need to snug up the
> bottom bolts to get the VS to lie flat. Of coarse I will need to get to
the
> bolts latter anyhow.
> > Thanks Dave Cook
> >
>
>
> .
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Aerobatic Speeds |
>Just curious, anyone tried a stall turn or tail slide?
I've done lots of stall and hammerhead turns. I try and keep just a little
positive so I may not be exactly 90 wrt the ground throughout. They work
for me.
I've never tried nor will I attempt an intentional tail slide in a (normal)
RV. With my luck, I'd nail one where I ended up with 30-40-kts reverse
airspeed before breaking over. Too much possible sudden loading on the
empennage for my comfort.
Bryan Jones -8
Pearland, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Access to bolts to VS to fuse. |
Here I thought I was the only one using this method. I have found that
getting your finger tip dirty by wiping it on the floor really helps when
it comes time to pull the nut off your finger.
>
>This tip from a professional airline mechanic friend who helped with my -6A.
>Crazy glue the washer (if using one) to the nut and then glue (lightly) the
>nut to the end of your finger to manipulate it into place and get the
>threads started. Pull gently to detach nut from finger. Apply socket, etc to
>tighten.
>
>If squeamish about gluing things to your fingertips, a few turns of duct
>tape or masking tape around your finger with the sticky side out will work
>too.
>
>RV-6A builders will need to learn some extra tricks and words when they deal
>with the spar-gear mount bolts as they put their wings on.
>
>Jim Oke
>Winnipeg, MB
>RV-6A
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Tim Bryan" <tim(at)bryantechnology.com>
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Access to bolts to VS to fuse.
>
>
>>
>> The dropped hardware in that area of the fuse does have a name. As long
>> as nobody is listening.
>> Even with the magnet tool, it's pretty tough to get to alot of areas in
>> that space. But, You can do it.
>>
>> Tim Bryan
>> RV-6 N616TB
>>
>>
>> -------Original Message-------
>>
>> From: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> Date: Thursday, August 28, 2003 05:38:39 AM
>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: Access to bolts to VS to fuse.
>>
>>
>> Hi Dave-
>>
>> Another of those tools I wish I'd bought early in the building process
>were
>> various sized forceps- using these to hold the washers & nuts plus various
>> 1/4" drive extensions & universal joints will get to just about any
>> unreachable" location. I bought a variety of them from a Fly Market vendor
>> at OSH last year and they have proven extremely useful. You'll also need
>one
>> of those little
>> magnets on a telescoping arm tools (does this thing have a name?!) for the
>> inevitable dropped hardware...
>>
>> From The PossumWorks in TN
>> Mark -6A - running wires!!!
>>
>> "David R. Cook" wrote:
>>
>> >
>> > Listers
>> > Stupid question 932. How do you get to the nuts on the inside of the
>fuse
>> that hold the bottom of the vertical stab to the fuse. I guess I made the
>> access hole to small to get my fist into. The cover plate is 2&1/2 by
>3&1/4.
>> I'm in the process of drilling the top holes but I need to snug up the
>> bottom bolts to get the VS to lie flat. Of coarse I will need to get to
>the
>> bolts latter anyhow.
>> > Thanks Dave Cook
>> >
>>
>>
>> .
>>
>>
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Aerobatic Speeds |
I have sat on fingers as long as I can stand, now they are numb and I can
stand it no longer. To be clear, I fly acro ALL the time in my -4. If you
take off and land in an RV and don't go upside down, it doesn't count as RV
time. Acro is the primary reason I bought an IFR RV-4 instead of a
Twin-Comanche or Bonanza this time. I love acro and I love doing it in an
RV.
What troubles me here is the tone of this thread. Discussions of
tailslides, snap rolls, and the like have no place in the RV parlance, this
is "Indian Burial ground, Don't go anywhere near here!" These are great
little airplanes, they are NOT great aerobatic airplanes. The Vn Diagram
for an RV should be well understood and compared to the Vn diagram of a real
aerobatic airplane like an EXTRA by anyone wishing to do acro. Spent a
little time studying the diagram. Factor in, gust loads, and passengers,
because everyone, including me violates the recommended aerobatic gross
weight, and you should come away with a healthy respect for the limits of
the airframe.
I did a presentation for the Mn wing RV forum last spring called "The wing
removal lever and how not to use it." It was an exploration of the Vn
diagram. Because of the low stall speed of the RV, an RV-8 at 1550# has 18
Gs available at Vne. That is twice the failure limit of the airplane.
Remember, just because someone is doing some maneuver for a long time
without a known problem, what about several owners later when the airplane
is twenty or thirty years old? These are great airplanes, They will still
be flying when they are 50 years old just like Cessnas. When the tail comes
off, the FAA will say, "those homemade airplanes aren't safe, we need to
ground them all!"
I don't want to sound like an old woman, ( I will get heat for that) and I
am not trying to rain on anyone's parade, but aviation is a business of
respect and discipline. The costs of lessons learned is high, and I hate
reading posts about what a great guy, and great pilot "old Joe" was.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Access to bolts to VS to fuse. |
>This tip from a professional airline mechanic friend who helped with
my -6A.
>Crazy glue the washer (if using one) to the nut and then glue (lightly) the
>nut to the end of your finger to manipulate it into place and get the
>treads started. Pull gently to detach nut from finger. Apply socket, etc to
>tighten
Yep! I can sure verify that sticking the washer to the nut works great!
there are many areas where this can be done to prevent four letter words!
Some examples:
---The bolts connecting the control tubes to the ailerons
" " " " " " " "
bellcranks and control sticks
" " through the rod-end bearing hinges on the rudder and
elevators. Here you can install the nut in a 3/8"
ring-wrench (the washer prevents it from falling through) and feed it to
the bolt and use
another wrench to tighten. This can be done in other
locations where your hands are just too big!
Having built a -6A, I have resorted to various tricks to get the nuts and
washers on those !%
#**! bolts that hold the undercarriage weldments to the
main spar where it is impossible to get your hand in the corners under the
gusset plates, such as gluing the nut-washer combination to slotted aluminum
strips bent to get in there!
I have also used modeling clay to hold nuts in wrenches to reach
hard-to-get-at places
Cheers!!---Henry Hore
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Tail and Wing kit for sale |
| From: | George and Mary Armstrong <armstpat(at)comcast.net> |
RV6A empenage and wing kits for sale. All metal work finished on
empenage. Each part primed with epoxy primer prior to assembly. Thick
skins on elevators and rudder. Original .016 skins included. Excellant
workmanship. Spare partially completed empenage kit included for parts.
Wing kit has Phlogiston spars. Little work completed. Ribs polished
and fitted. Rear spar parts painted.
Selling for price of two kits $6200 FIRM.
Also have tip lights and strobes, dual landing lights, heated pitot and
internal antennas for 75% of my cost. All new in box.
Located in Half Moon Bay CA.
Bought a classic Bonanza to fly while finishing the RV. Decided flying
is more fun than building.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Starn" <jhstarn(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | kinda off topic.... |
Slightly off topic but used in HRII, EAA filming and photos.
My present video camcorder is on its last legs. I could use input from a
bunch of people that I have come to trust. I'll use the 'corder to shoot
from the HRII, at both day and night high school football games. Don't have
a large budget for another "toy" but I need to buy a new one. Looking for
recommendations and maybe more important data on what NOT to buy. Please
reply off list and be as educational and specific as possible. KABONG
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6A kit for sale |
Fellow Listers:
One of our members has a -6A kit for sale. Here are the detail.. please
contact him directly
Thanks
Doug Weiler
MN Wing
----------
I have a tail feathers mostly complete and one wing of an RV6A in the jig
ready to be closed up. "Factory spar" and
this kit was NOT pre- factory punched, before that was an option. The price
will be "right!"
Quite a few GOOD aircraft tools available to the buyer .... first..
Bill Davis Jr Grand Rapids, MN 218-326-5658
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Aerobatic Speeds |
Hi Guys,
I've also been sitting on my hands while watching this thread. I too do quite
a bit of upside down work in my RV6, and will really echo what Doug is saying.
My airplane is kept at a private airstrip where an RV-4 crashed several years ago.
This plane suffered a control linkage failure, and the pilot had long bragged
about doing extreme maneuvers, and pulling what I consider extreme G's in
his -4. I don't want to re-visit the "what happened" thread, but I'm terribly
carefull in my RV.
Yes, I've explored all ends of the envelope, including flying with very little
gas, and just myself to get down somewhere close to the "aerobatic weight" (nearly
impossible). I've had my plane to +5/-3 in that scenario(wearing a chute),
but should say that I try to keep it around +4/-2 for everything. Anything
that should be done in an RV CAN be done within those limits VERY easily. What
is difficult is sustained inverted flight, not because of the plane, but because
of my seat-belts. The only way I can stay upside down for very long is
to have the lap belt so tight It's really not comfortable.
These planes are great fun for the required rolls on EVERY flight, loops, cubans,
hammerheads (if you are carefull and don't fall out of them), the occasional
spin, and a variety of other "gentelmens" aerobatics.
If you want a pitts, buy one.....they are dirt cheap for a S1S, but damned it's
fun to do a roll with someone who has never been upside down!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6, N664SB
RV6 N64YU
Rosemount, MN
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com>
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 14:25:18 -0500
>
>
>I have sat on fingers as long as I can stand, now they are numb and I can
>stand it no longer. To be clear, I fly acro ALL the time in my -4. If you
>take off and land in an RV and don't go upside down, it doesn't count as RV
>time. Acro is the primary reason I bought an IFR RV-4 instead of a
>Twin-Comanche or Bonanza this time. I love acro and I love doing it in an
>RV.
>
>What troubles me here is the tone of this thread. Discussions of
>tailslides, snap rolls, and the like have no place in the RV parlance, this
>is "Indian Burial ground, Don't go anywhere near here!" These are great
>little airplanes, they are NOT great aerobatic airplanes. The Vn Diagram
>for an RV should be well understood and compared to the Vn diagram of a real
>aerobatic airplane like an EXTRA by anyone wishing to do acro. Spent a
>little time studying the diagram. Factor in, gust loads, and passengers,
>because everyone, including me violates the recommended aerobatic gross
>weight, and you should come away with a healthy respect for the limits of
>the airframe.
>
>I did a presentation for the Mn wing RV forum last spring called "The wing
>removal lever and how not to use it." It was an exploration of the Vn
>diagram. Because of the low stall speed of the RV, an RV-8 at 1550# has 18
>Gs available at Vne. That is twice the failure limit of the airplane.
>
>Remember, just because someone is doing some maneuver for a long time
>without a known problem, what about several owners later when the airplane
>is twenty or thirty years old? These are great airplanes, They will still
>be flying when they are 50 years old just like Cessnas. When the tail comes
>off, the FAA will say, "those homemade airplanes aren't safe, we need to
>ground them all!"
>
>I don't want to sound like an old woman, ( I will get heat for that) and I
>am not trying to rain on anyone's parade, but aviation is a business of
>respect and discipline. The costs of lessons learned is high, and I hate
>reading posts about what a great guy, and great pilot "old Joe" was.
>
>Tailwinds,
>Doug Rozendaal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca> |
| Subject: | Simple Carb Heat Muff |
I have just sent some pictures of a simple carb heat muff to Matronics
E-Mail List Photo Share. You can make it yourself for minimual cost. The
muff wraps around both pipes on a RV-6 Vetterman crossover exhaust and
provides a little more heat than some of the other muffs.
George McNutt
Langley B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mstewart(at)qa.butler.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV Aerobatic Speeds |
autolearn=ham version=2.53
I think the warnings issued by Doug and Stein are important. I don't know
Stein personally, but I do know Doug and something has kept him flying for
thousands of hours in planes I have only seen in magazines. Obviously good
judgment has been one of those things. I respect that Doug more than you
know. That being said.
As a builder, one of the appealing aspects for me was the aspect of being a
test pilot of sorts. Not to die, but to live. To explore the reaches of my
skills, and the plane. After a thousand hours in the past year and a half in
my RV, I am starting to really feel like I am one with the plane. Maybe Ill
feel like that right up to the time the wings come off, I don't know. What I
do know is I enjoy pushing the risk envelop more than others. That's really
what this thread ends up being about, each individual's risk/reward
tolerance factor. Being stupid we can all easily ridicule, but pushing ones
boundaries, whether personal or the planes, is an individuals call. Maybe
there is a fine line between risky and stupid. Perhaps.... But I don't feel
the line is that thin.
I, nor the other post, encouraged others to engage in risky or stupid
behavior, in fact we both gave head to warnings, but I don't feel that
educating others on what I do and the process in which I did it is a bad
thing. I am but one data point on the learning curve for the reader who must
make their own adult decision.
I will add to my original post that tail slides are not for me. I have had
the stick jerked in my death grip in capable airplanes enough times that I
would not want that force applied in my RV.
And Doug, how come you "love to do Acro in the RV" yet, "they are NOT great
aerobatic airplanes?" I would argue they ARE great aerobatic planes. What
makes em great? The things you and others mentioned. The fact that we can
hardly take a flight without going upside down. The fact that despite Van's
aerobatic weight, passengers scream, kids whale, I'm often brought to tears
with the fun I have driving through an aerobatic routine with a little James
Taylor playing.
And I don't want a Pitts! I'll take my RV thank you.:) I want to see, I want
metal, I want to see my passenger smile, and I want to fly in the soup when
I need to, I want to fly at Oshkosh with 20 of my friends at show center,
and the list goes on and on and on. It is not necessary to own a Pitts to
participate in the world of Aerobatics. Sure the Pitts is a more capable
aerobatic performer. But we don't have to tell people to buy one if they
want to explore this arena.
End of rant.
And thanks to Doug and Stein for keeping my thoughts in check.
Mike Stewart
Obviously too much time on my hands this morning
You archived yours, Im archiving mine.
-----Original Message-----
From: Stein Bruch [mailto:stein(at)steinair.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV Aerobatic Speeds
Hi Guys,
I've also been sitting on my hands while watching this thread. I too do
quite a bit of upside down work in my RV6, and will really echo what Doug is
saying.
My airplane is kept at a private airstrip where an RV-4 crashed several
years ago. This plane suffered a control linkage failure, and the pilot had
long bragged about doing extreme maneuvers, and pulling what I consider
extreme G's in his -4. I don't want to re-visit the "what happened" thread,
but I'm terribly carefull in my RV.
Yes, I've explored all ends of the envelope, including flying with very
little gas, and just myself to get down somewhere close to the "aerobatic
weight" (nearly impossible). I've had my plane to +5/-3 in that
scenario(wearing a chute), but should say that I try to keep it around +4/-2
for everything. Anything that should be done in an RV CAN be done within
those limits VERY easily. What is difficult is sustained inverted flight,
not because of the plane, but because of my seat-belts. The only way I can
stay upside down for very long is to have the lap belt so tight It's really
not comfortable.
These planes are great fun for the required rolls on EVERY flight, loops,
cubans, hammerheads (if you are carefull and don't fall out of them), the
occasional spin, and a variety of other "gentelmens" aerobatics.
If you want a pitts, buy one.....they are dirt cheap for a S1S, but damned
it's fun to do a roll with someone who has never been upside down!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6, N664SB
RV6 N64YU
Rosemount, MN
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com>
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 14:25:18 -0500
>
>
>I have sat on fingers as long as I can stand, now they are numb and I can
>stand it no longer. To be clear, I fly acro ALL the time in my -4. If you
>take off and land in an RV and don't go upside down, it doesn't count as RV
>time. Acro is the primary reason I bought an IFR RV-4 instead of a
>Twin-Comanche or Bonanza this time. I love acro and I love doing it in an
>RV.
>
>What troubles me here is the tone of this thread. Discussions of
>tailslides, snap rolls, and the like have no place in the RV parlance, this
>is "Indian Burial ground, Don't go anywhere near here!" These are great
>little airplanes, they are NOT great aerobatic airplanes. The Vn Diagram
>for an RV should be well understood and compared to the Vn diagram of a
real
>aerobatic airplane like an EXTRA by anyone wishing to do acro. Spent a
>little time studying the diagram. Factor in, gust loads, and passengers,
>because everyone, including me violates the recommended aerobatic gross
>weight, and you should come away with a healthy respect for the limits of
>the airframe.
>
>I did a presentation for the Mn wing RV forum last spring called "The wing
>removal lever and how not to use it." It was an exploration of the Vn
>diagram. Because of the low stall speed of the RV, an RV-8 at 1550# has 18
>Gs available at Vne. That is twice the failure limit of the airplane.
>
>Remember, just because someone is doing some maneuver for a long time
>without a known problem, what about several owners later when the airplane
>is twenty or thirty years old? These are great airplanes, They will still
>be flying when they are 50 years old just like Cessnas. When the tail
comes
>off, the FAA will say, "those homemade airplanes aren't safe, we need to
>ground them all!"
>
>I don't want to sound like an old woman, ( I will get heat for that) and I
>am not trying to rain on anyone's parade, but aviation is a business of
>respect and discipline. The costs of lessons learned is high, and I hate
>reading posts about what a great guy, and great pilot "old Joe" was.
>
>Tailwinds,
>Doug Rozendaal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Locating the EDC-D10 External Digital Compass Module |
For those flying the Dynon EFIS D10 and the EDC-D10 External Digital Compass Module.....
where did you install the EDC-D10 for minimal magnetic interference?
TIA,
Jack Lockamy
Camarillo, CA
RV-7A QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Locating the EDC-D10 External Digital Compass Module |
Jack Lockamy wrote:
>
>
> For those flying the Dynon EFIS D10 and the EDC-D10 External Digital Compass
Module..... where did you install the EDC-D10 for minimal magnetic interference?
>
> TIA,
> Jack Lockamy
> Camarillo, CA
> RV-7A QB
When I was using the Honeywell magnetometer (great unit......$730.....)
while "testing" a particular EFIS last year, I mounted the mag on the
shelf below the leading edge of the vertical stab. This location worked
well because it is far removed from electrical activity and is aligned
properly in pitch and roll axis. The only alignment necessary is to get
the unit pointed straight ahead for proper yaw alignment.
I drilled some holes in the deck and used nylon tie wraps to secure the
mag to the shelf to avoid interference from fasteners. This location
worked very well and I intend to reuse it when I mount the mag for my
upcoming Dynon. It will be interesting to compare the inexpensive Dynon
mag to the high$$$$ Honeywell.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, TruTrak AlTrak installed and operating nicely)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Locating the EDC-D10 External Digital Compass Module |
Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
>
> Jack Lockamy wrote:
> >
> >
> > For those flying the Dynon EFIS D10 and the EDC-D10 External Digital Compass
Module..... where did you install the EDC-D10 for minimal magnetic interference?
> >
> > TIA,
> > Jack Lockamy
> > Camarillo, CA
> > RV-7A QB
>
> When I was using the Honeywell magnetometer (great unit......$730.....)
> while "testing" a particular EFIS last year, I mounted the mag on the
> shelf below the leading edge of the vertical stab. This location worked
> well because it is far removed from electrical activity and is aligned
> properly in pitch and roll axis. The only alignment necessary is to get
> the unit pointed straight ahead for proper yaw alignment.
>
> I drilled some holes in the deck and used nylon tie wraps to secure the
> mag to the shelf to avoid interference from fasteners. This location
> worked very well and I intend to reuse it when I mount the mag for my
> upcoming Dynon. It will be interesting to compare the inexpensive Dynon
> mag to the high$$$$ Honeywell.
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6, TruTrak AlTrak installed and operating nicely)
One more note...
I had some category 5 computer network cable on hand and used that for
wiring the magnetometer. Not only is it easy to run since all the wires
are in one bundle but it has eight conductors in four pairs; I used a
pair of conductors for each "wire" which gave me some redundancy.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Locating the EDC-D10 External Digital Compass |
Module
I too have a D10 with the external compass module and had considered CAT-5 for
the cable; I know it would work well electrically as we use it all the time for
making up RS-232 cables at work. However, CAT-5 has solid conductors and I
was concerned about the wires breaking after a while due to vibration. Having
just wired my basement for 24 gigabit ethernet ports with CAT5e stuff, I know
firsthand that you don't have to bend an individual conductor much to get it
to break. For that reason, I decided against using CAT5. Am I being too
conservative?
Thanks!
Brad "Sharpie" Benson
RV6AQB underway...
"Please buy my software, it's funding my RV6A project!" - http://www.notamd.com
*********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********
On 8/29/2003 at 10:01 AM Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
>
>Sam Buchanan wrote:
>>
>>
>> Jack Lockamy wrote:
>> >
>> >
>> > For those flying the Dynon EFIS D10 and the EDC-D10 External Digital
>Compass Module..... where did you install the EDC-D10 for minimal magnetic
>interference?
>> >
>> > TIA,
>> > Jack Lockamy
>> > Camarillo, CA
>> > RV-7A QB
>>
>> When I was using the Honeywell magnetometer (great unit......$730.....)
>> while "testing" a particular EFIS last year, I mounted the mag on the
>> shelf below the leading edge of the vertical stab. This location worked
>> well because it is far removed from electrical activity and is aligned
>> properly in pitch and roll axis. The only alignment necessary is to get
>> the unit pointed straight ahead for proper yaw alignment.
>>
>> I drilled some holes in the deck and used nylon tie wraps to secure the
>> mag to the shelf to avoid interference from fasteners. This location
>> worked very well and I intend to reuse it when I mount the mag for my
>> upcoming Dynon. It will be interesting to compare the inexpensive Dynon
>> mag to the high$$$$ Honeywell.
>>
>> Sam Buchanan (RV-6, TruTrak AlTrak installed and operating nicely)
>
>
>One more note...
>
>I had some category 5 computer network cable on hand and used that for
>wiring the magnetometer. Not only is it easy to run since all the wires
>are in one bundle but it has eight conductors in four pairs; I used a
>pair of conductors for each "wire" which gave me some redundancy.
>
>Sam Buchanan
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | " bert murillo" <bert6(at)mybluelight.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Access to bolts to VS to fuse. |
David:
Hear are a couple of Ideas.I just finishing doing
exactly that, bolting the V.S on my rv6a.
Even if you enlarge the hole on the fulselage, as
I did, I hardly can put my hand thru. the prooblem is
you can not reach low enough to hold anything..
so this is what I did. fould the longest thinner
wrench I had. put the small 3/16 and with electric tape
a few turns, to hold them tight.... and voila::
now all I had to do, with a light see where the bolt
head is, put my box wrench on the head of the bolt, and
with a socket wrence, then tight the nut on the other
side..the head of the bolt must be inside...
you could use a long piece of wood, a rod,,anything.
is better if it is flat, to match the wrench...
Now I have a tool to remove my V.S any time, easy...
I did enlarge the hole on the top of the fuselage,,
and also I did make another small window on the side
of the fuselage; this was very important when, putting
the bolt for the horns on= the H.S...the top hole really
I do not remember help that much...
The side extra window did....
Hope this idea will help
Bert
rv6a...
Sign up for Internet Service under $10 dollars a month, at http://isp.BlueLight.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Locating the EDC-D10 External Digital CompassModule |
Brad Benson wrote:
>
>
> I too have a D10 with the external compass module and had considered CAT-5 for
the cable; I know it would work well electrically as we use it all the time
for making up RS-232 cables at work. However, CAT-5 has solid conductors and
I was concerned about the wires breaking after a while due to vibration. Having
just wired my basement for 24 gigabit ethernet ports with CAT5e stuff, I
know firsthand that you don't have to bend an individual conductor much to get
it to break. For that reason, I decided against using CAT5. Am I being too
conservative?
----------------------
It is true that the solid conductors in CAT-5 should have a greater
chance of breaking due to vibration. That is why I used a pair of wires
for each conductor in the mag installation.
Is the CAT-5 likely to fail in service after you have secured the cable
to minimize vibration? I guess that is one of many questions each
builder has to answer based on his/her individual comfort level. What is
the worst case scenario of the mag's CAT-5 cable failing? You lose the
magnetic heading indication on the D10, and have to repair/replace the
cable.
I have been using solid conductor radio coax (from Radio
Shack....gasp!!!!) for four years and 500 hrs without problems.
Maybe I should have higher standards. ;-)
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Reichel <scott.reichel(at)cctechnol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Locating the EDC-D10 External Digital Compass |
Module
Brad,
Not all CAT-5e is made with solid wire. Belkin isn't the least expensive
brand (by far!), but they make a good
example:
http://catalog.belkin.com/IWCatProductPage.process?Merchant_Id=&Section_Id=523&pcount=&Product_Id=41968
-Scott
>
>
>I too have a D10 with the external compass module and had considered CAT-5
>for the cable; I know it would work well electrically as we use it all the
>time for making up RS-232 cables at work. However, CAT-5 has solid
>conductors and I was concerned about the wires breaking after a while due
>to vibration. Having just wired my basement for 24 gigabit ethernet
>ports with CAT5e stuff, I know firsthand that you don't have to bend an
>individual conductor much to get it to break. For that reason, I decided
>against using CAT5. Am I being too conservative?
>
>Thanks!
>Brad "Sharpie" Benson
>RV6AQB underway...
>"Please buy my software, it's funding my RV6A project!" -
>http://www.notamd.com
>
>*********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********
>
>On 8/29/2003 at 10:01 AM Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >Sam Buchanan wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >> Jack Lockamy wrote:
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > For those flying the Dynon EFIS D10 and the EDC-D10 External Digital
> >Compass Module..... where did you install the EDC-D10 for minimal magnetic
> >interference?
> >> >
> >> > TIA,
> >> > Jack Lockamy
> >> > Camarillo, CA
> >> > RV-7A QB
> >>
> >> When I was using the Honeywell magnetometer (great unit......$730.....)
> >> while "testing" a particular EFIS last year, I mounted the mag on the
> >> shelf below the leading edge of the vertical stab. This location worked
> >> well because it is far removed from electrical activity and is aligned
> >> properly in pitch and roll axis. The only alignment necessary is to get
> >> the unit pointed straight ahead for proper yaw alignment.
> >>
> >> I drilled some holes in the deck and used nylon tie wraps to secure the
> >> mag to the shelf to avoid interference from fasteners. This location
> >> worked very well and I intend to reuse it when I mount the mag for my
> >> upcoming Dynon. It will be interesting to compare the inexpensive Dynon
> >> mag to the high$$$$ Honeywell.
> >>
> >> Sam Buchanan (RV-6, TruTrak AlTrak installed and operating nicely)
> >
> >
> >One more note...
> >
> >I had some category 5 computer network cable on hand and used that for
> >wiring the magnetometer. Not only is it easy to run since all the wires
> >are in one bundle but it has eight conductors in four pairs; I used a
> >pair of conductors for each "wire" which gave me some redundancy.
> >
> >Sam Buchanan
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Locating the EDC-D10 External Digital Compass Module |
http://www.rvproject.com/20030806.html
That page shows where I mounted it, how I mounted it, etc. Up at the top of
F-707. I fabricated an aluminum shelf and ended up getting some plastic
screws/nuts from Lowe's to fasten the $99 "box o air" to the shelf.
The irony is that the D-9 connector itself and its retaining screws are as
ferrous as it gets. I asked Dynon about this, and an engineer replied that
they located the connector on the opposite side of the box of the sensor.
Kinda makes me wonder if it's really worth all the finicky trouble to get
that box *feet* away from other ferrous stuff...
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy(at)att.net>
Subject: RV-List: Locating the EDC-D10 External Digital Compass Module
>
> For those flying the Dynon EFIS D10 and the EDC-D10 External Digital
Compass Module..... where did you install the EDC-D10 for minimal magnetic
interference?
>
> TIA,
> Jack Lockamy
> Camarillo, CA
> RV-7A QB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Locating the EDC-D10 External Digital Compass Module |
Major Bummer,
I wired my Compass module up this morning and turned on my Dynon and got a
Blue screen, nothing more. I double checked all the wiring and no problems,
so I called and they said I may have "static"ed something or their might be
current in the tip of the soldering iron.
Unplug your EFIS before you work on the wiring.
I am shipping it back today, they said they would quick turn it back to me.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <tim(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6 Flightsoft Aiorcraft file |
Has anyone created an RV-6 aircraft file for use with flightsoft planning
software? I realize they need to be customized for each aircraft, but would
be a great starting poing. Would somebody who has be willing to share the
file? *.ACS I think
Thanks
Tim Bryan
RV-6 N616TB
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV Aerobatic Speeds |
| From: | "David.vonLinsowe" <David.vonLinsowe(at)delphi.com> |
Stein, I'm assuming that you have an inverted fuel and oil system in
your 6.
Having transitioned from a Pitts S-2 to a RV-6 I've limited myself to
just barrel rolls and wing overs because I don't have a G meter yet and
my G tolerance might be a little higher than normal :-)
My question pertains to having a carb and doing hammers. A vertical up
line is not a good place for the engine to quit. Once you've burned off
most your speed you're not going to have much in the way of options.
So what can you get a way with on vertical up lines when you have a
carb? 80 degrees? Or will it keep on running on vertical lines (and
throwing oil on the belly)? What do the Citabria guys do?
BTW. A 5 point Hooker Harness with the ratchet is the only way to go
for negative stuff :-)
Thanks,
Dave
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV Aerobatic Speeds
Hi Guys,
I've also been sitting on my hands while watching this thread. I too do
quite
a bit of upside down work in my RV6, and will really echo what Doug is
saying.
My airplane is kept at a private airstrip where an RV-4 crashed several
years ago.
This plane suffered a control linkage failure, and the pilot had long
bragged
about doing extreme maneuvers, and pulling what I consider extreme G's
in
his -4. I don't want to re-visit the "what happened" thread, but I'm
terribly
carefull in my RV.
Yes, I've explored all ends of the envelope, including flying with very
little
gas, and just myself to get down somewhere close to the "aerobatic
weight" (nearly
impossible). I've had my plane to +5/-3 in that scenario(wearing a
chute),
but should say that I try to keep it around +4/-2 for everything.
Anything
that should be done in an RV CAN be done within those limits VERY
easily. What
is difficult is sustained inverted flight, not because of the plane, but
because
of my seat-belts. The only way I can stay upside down for very long is
to have the lap belt so tight It's really not comfortable.
These planes are great fun for the required rolls on EVERY flight,
loops, cubans,
hammerheads (if you are carefull and don't fall out of them), the
occasional
spin, and a variety of other "gentelmens" aerobatics.
If you want a pitts, buy one.....they are dirt cheap for a S1S, but
damned it's
fun to do a roll with someone who has never been upside down!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6, N664SB
RV6 N64YU
Rosemount, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Pichon" <DeanPichon(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Fw: Where can I easily find AD's on engine, prop, etc. |
----- Original Message -----
From: Dean Pichon
Subject: Where can I easily find AD's on engine, prop, etc.
I'm finishing the annual on my -4 and would like recommendations for checking on
AD's for my engine, prop, etc. If anyone has found a convenient source for
checking AD's I would appreicate some direction.
Dean Pichon
RV-4
Morgantown, WV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Locating the EDC-D10 External Digital Compass Module |
I just wanted to forward this to the rv-list, since I had made a comment
about the EDC's proximity to ferrous metal, the connector being ferrous,
etc. I'm continously amazed at how Dynon is "watching over us," even on the
rv-list. Pretty cool stuff.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Medema" <doug(at)dynondevelopment.com>
Subject: Re: Locating the EDC-D10 External Digital Compass Module
> Hi Dan,
>
> Saw your post on the rv-list about mounting the EDC-D10
> Electronic Digital Compass. Your mounting arrangement
> looks very nice.
>
> It IS important to mount it away from ferrous metals.
> While the connector is ferrous, it's effect is removed
> during our calibration process at the factory. This is
> a fairly complex process that takes data while moving
> the module through a wide variety of pitch, roll, and
> yaw orientations that essentially cover a sphere. This
> allows us to factor in the connector. Since we can't
> ask our customers to perform similar maneuvers with
> their airplanes, we need the unit to be mounted in a
> magnetic interference free location as possible. The
> in-plane calibration is intended to overcome only small
> effects from the mounting.
>
> Let me know if you have any other questions.
>
> Doug Medema
> VP of Engineering
> Dynon Avionics
>
> ---
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gilalex(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Where can I easily find AD's on engine, prop, |
etc.
This one is easy...... go to the official source....
http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgAD.nsf/MainFrame?OpenFrameSet
...gil in Tucson
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Dean Pichon
>To: rv-list
>Subject: Where can I easily find AD's on engine, prop, etc.
>
>I'm finishing the annual on my -4 and would like recommendations for
>checking on AD's for my engine, prop, etc. If anyone has found a
>convenient source for checking AD's I would appreicate some direction.
>
>Dean Pichon
>RV-4
>Morgantown, WV
>
>
RV-6A, #20701 .. fitting out firewall...
77 Tiger N28478 at 57AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Perry" <eperry(at)san.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Where can I easily find AD's on engine, prop, etc. |
Try this link
http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgAD.nsf/MainFrame?OpenFrameSet
and then put what you want in the search box.
Ed Perry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dean Pichon" <DeanPichon(at)msn.com>
Subject: RV-List: Fw: Where can I easily find AD's on engine, prop, etc.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Dean Pichon
> To: rv-list
> Subject: Where can I easily find AD's on engine, prop, etc.
>
> I'm finishing the annual on my -4 and would like recommendations for
checking on AD's for my engine, prop, etc. If anyone has found a convenient
source for checking AD's I would appreicate some direction.
>
> Dean Pichon
> RV-4
> Morgantown, WV
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David R. Cook" <davercook(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Access to bolts toVS to fuse |
Listers
Thanks to all who replied.My problem was I had the elevators attached. DUH. After
removing them it was possible, not easy, but possible. I hope I do not have
to glue my nuts to my fingers but I do have plenty of dirt on the floor if needed.
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ George McNutt ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: George McNutt
Subject: Simple Carb Heat Muff
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/gmcnutt@intergate.ca.08.30.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Garmin 530 radio reception |
Fellow Listers:
One of our members who is not on the List has a recently completed RV-7A
with a multitude of electronic goodies. This aircraft is all electric with
dual alternators, batteries, and dual Lightspeed electronic ignition. The
primary radio is a Garmin 530. The antenna for this radio is located on the
belly (bent whip) under the seats (just forward of the spar carry-through
structure). His problem is poor reception from a ground station when the
airplane is pointed at the station. This is very directional. He says when
he turns the airplane left or right of the station (ATIS, for example), the
reception is clear and strong. But when pointed directly at the source
(from greater than 15 miles out), the reception is weak and scratchy. It
seems to be blocked by something.... nosewheel, ????... don't know.
Any ideas?? Has anyone else reported something similar with a tri-gear RV.
How about the antenna cable? It's a 50 ohm cable. How can he check the
integrity and performance of this cable?
Your help is greatly appreciated!!
Thanks
Doug Weiler
pres, MN Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | ACS2002 Screen Orientation |
| From: | Jim Daniels <jwdanie(at)comcast.net> |
Anyone know how to change the ACS2002 screen orientation from
horizontal to vertical? I have an email in to ACS but thought maybe
someone on the list has done this already.
Thanks!
Jim Daniels
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ACS2002 Screen Orientation |
Hi Jim,
Tom Berge, one of our local club members has a vertically mounted ACS unit.
It was a software change done by the manufacturer. Looks and works great.
If you would like any further details, let me know and I'll put you in
touch.
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Daniels" <jwdanie(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: ACS2002 Screen Orientation
>
> Anyone know how to change the ACS2002 screen orientation from
> horizontal to vertical? I have an email in to ACS but thought maybe
> someone on the list has done this already.
>
> Thanks!
> Jim Daniels
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin 530 radio reception |
Doug,
I'd suspect that the nosegear is blocking it. The fix of course, would
to put a tailwheel on it.
Dave 8>) RV6 (naturally)
Doug Weiler wrote:
>
>Fellow Listers:
>
>One of our members who is not on the List has a recently completed RV-7A
>with a multitude of electronic goodies. This aircraft is all electric with
>dual alternators, batteries, and dual Lightspeed electronic ignition. The
>primary radio is a Garmin 530. The antenna for this radio is located on the
>belly (bent whip) under the seats (just forward of the spar carry-through
>structure). His problem is poor reception from a ground station when the
>airplane is pointed at the station. This is very directional. He says when
>he turns the airplane left or right of the station (ATIS, for example), the
>reception is clear and strong. But when pointed directly at the source
>(from greater than 15 miles out), the reception is weak and scratchy. It
>seems to be blocked by something.... nosewheel, ????... don't know.
>
>Any ideas?? Has anyone else reported something similar with a tri-gear RV.
>How about the antenna cable? It's a 50 ohm cable. How can he check the
>integrity and performance of this cable?
>
>Your help is greatly appreciated!!
>
>Thanks
>
>Doug Weiler
>pres, MN Wing
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ACS2002 Screen Orientation |
| From: | Jim Daniels <jwdanie(at)comcast.net> |
> Tom Berge, one of our local club members has a vertically mounted ACS
> unit.
> It was a software change done by the manufacturer. Looks and works
> great.
> If you would like any further details, let me know and I'll put you in
> touch.
Hi Doug,
Hopefully it isn't a manufacturer change. I ordered a vertical
orientation and at that time they mentioned it can easily be changed
later by the user. Unfortunately how to do that is not documented, nor
does poking around the menu items reveal any clues. I guess I'll wait
until Tuesday.
Thanks!
Jim Daniels
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian W. Truitt" <b-l-t(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin 530 radio reception |
Hi Doug
That big metal prop whirling around in front will disturb a radiation pattern.
Probably more than the nose wheel, especially in a descent. The bent antenna
on our -7 is about a foot forward of the rear spar and a few inches inboard from
the side. No directional problems have been noticed with many transmissions
directly in front. I would suspect the coax and connectors are okay as it
works fine in other dircetions. Best check is with a power meter inserted in
the coax near the 530 and check for reflected power.
Brian Truitt RV-7 C-GZXM flying and for sale.
(250) 897-0260
b-l-t(at)shaw.ca
----- Original Message -----
From: Doug Weiler
To: RV List
Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2003 1:34 PM
Subject: RV-List: Garmin 530 radio reception
Fellow Listers:
One of our members who is not on the List has a recently completed RV-7A
with a multitude of electronic goodies. This aircraft is all electric with
dual alternators, batteries, and dual Lightspeed electronic ignition. The
primary radio is a Garmin 530. The antenna for this radio is located on the
belly (bent whip) under the seats (just forward of the spar carry-through
structure). His problem is poor reception from a ground station when the
airplane is pointed at the station. This is very directional. He says when
he turns the airplane left or right of the station (ATIS, for example), the
reception is clear and strong. But when pointed directly at the source
(from greater than 15 miles out), the reception is weak and scratchy. It
seems to be blocked by something.... nosewheel, ????... don't know.
Any ideas?? Has anyone else reported something similar with a tri-gear RV.
How about the antenna cable? It's a 50 ohm cable. How can he check the
integrity and performance of this cable?
Your help is greatly appreciated!!
Thanks
Doug Weiler
pres, MN Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duane Bentley" <dbentley(at)fuse.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Locating the EDC-D10 External Digital Compass Module |
I have the external compass module and was planning on putting it in the
same location that Sam Buchanan described. One other RV 6 pilot who is
currently flying off his flight test time, made some rails and installed
it just forward of the HS deck, due to concern of the unit potentially
getting wet if installed on the deck. It's also a good spot, but
requires "one more trip" down the fuselage to mount.
I brought out my laptop and assisted with the calibration of his unit.
After grinding through the numbers, the computer said there was no
correction required. I also found no impact to the unit reading while
running the electric trim up and down.
Duane Bentley
RV6 Finishing
West Chester, OH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Pichon" <DeanPichon(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Looking for hangar space in eastern Massachusetts |
I'm returning to Massachusetts and am looking for Hangar space - either shared
or private. Ideally, I'd like to find space at Sterling, Minuteman, Nashua, or
Fitchburg. Any leads would be much appreciated.
Thanks,
Dean Pichon
RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Locating the EDC-D10 External Digital Compass Module |
Duane Bentley wrote:
>
>
> I have the external compass module and was planning on putting it in the
> same location that Sam Buchanan described. One other RV 6 pilot who is
> currently flying off his flight test time, made some rails and installed
> it just forward of the HS deck, due to concern of the unit potentially
> getting wet if installed on the deck. It's also a good spot, but
> requires "one more trip" down the fuselage to mount.
Good point, Duane. Your post reminded me that I sealed the Honeywell mag
in a plastic bag before mounting it on the HS deck. The bag was taped
tightly where the cable exited the bag.
Thanks for the reminder; I had forgotten about the baggie. :-)
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Elevator Hinge Questions |
| From: | "" <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com> |
All,
I had a couple of questions where I couldn't find real clear help on in the archives.
I would appreciate any help that can be provided:
* The drawings show to safety wire a "hinge pin" from the E-721 to the 606. Where
does this pin come from? Am I supposed to cut the hinge and drive out the
pin? I didn't see this detail at all in the instructions.
* Why do the plans specify to c-sink the 705 to the 606PP? I got ahead of myself
and dimpled those areas, and I do not see why I can't leave it that way.
* Anybody dimple the top and bottom of the 606PP (and dimple the hinge)? Got ahead
of myself here as well and dimpled the top before I realized it needed to
be c-sinked to accept the hinge.
* Directions state to "finish up" the area around the trim access before the skin
is closed. Given that I will have manual trim (and not ge the cable till much
later), can I close the elevator now?
Thanks in advance,
Scott
7A Trying to get started on the wings!
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob W M Shipley" <rob(at)robsglass.com> |
| Subject: | Access to bolts to VS to fuse |
I've followed this thread with great interest. No one so far has mentioned butyl.
This is also called dum dum by mechanics. It was used for many years to
install autoglass and is a black permanently sticky substance which is neutral
to steel and aluminium.
It comes in a roll of 1/4" or 3/16" cross section, either square or round. Each
roll is about 15' long but butyl can be stretched out to make longer and thinner
pieces. Small amounts can be pinched off to hold nuts onto the end of a
piece of wire or a screwdriver. It's commonly used to hold panels and wires in
place. Any autoglass shop should be willing to sell you a roll for a few dollars
and one roll will likely see you through one plane.
I'm happy to answer any further enquiries and if anyone in the San Diego area needs
some give me a call.
Rob
Rob W M Shipley
RV9A N919RV (res) Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Fifth point seat belt hole? |
A while back someone put information on the list about how they used some HMWP
(white plastic) to make an adjustable cover or 'edge protector for their fifth
point belt. I have spent some time in the archives but have not found the right
words or combinations thereof.
Thanks
Jim in Kelowna
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca> |
| Subject: | Fifth point seat belt hole? |
A while back someone put information on the list about how they used some
HMWP (white plastic) to make an adjustable cover or 'edge protector for
their fifth point belt. I have spent some time in the archives but have not
found the right words or combinations thereof.
Thanks
Jim in Kelowna
---------------------------
Hi Jim
Might be mine you were thinking of. Its on the VAF Western Canada Wing web
page, aircraft C-GJTY and follow the links for "more" pictures. When you get
the page with building pictures it's down at bottom of page.
http://www.vansairforce.org/airplanes/C-GJTY/more.cgi?more
Made adjustable gap so a unused buckle could never fall inside and jam
controls.
George McNutt
Langley B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Saffold" <michaelsaffold(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Tool Nerd / Pneumatic C-frame |
First, I freely admit that I am a tool nerd. Building my RV-7 has allowed my love
of tools and tool acquisition to soar to new heights. Almost any tool that
has ever been described as "nice to have but not necessary" for building an aluminum
airplane, I have and love using. When someone asks if they should use a
pneumatic or hand squeezer. I really don't understand what "or" is doing in the
sentence.
So, you may understand why I need/want/whatever, an automatic foot switch activated
pneumatic C-frame dimpler. I know several people have created fine examples
of this totally unnecessary must have item. Unfortunately I am not a welder
and cant just get out the McMaster Carr catalog and whip one up. I did see
somewhere(can't find it now despite full web and archive searches) that someone
had a way of modifying an existing dimpler by adding pneumatic cylinders and,
if I'm not wrong, a mouth activated switch. If this mechanical genius is on
the list or someone knows him. I'd be glad to pay for plans or even just descriptions
and part numbers so I can make one of these beauties myself.
I think I can handle the laser sight dimple die finder myself.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tool Nerd / Pneumatic C-frame |
Dana Overall wrote:
>
>
> >From: "Michael Saffold" <michaelsaffold(at)hotmail.com>
> >First, I freely admit that I am a tool nerd. Building my RV-7 has allowed
> >my love of tools and tool acquisition to soar to new heights. >
> >I think I can handle the laser sight dimple die finder myself.
> >
>
> The "laser sight dimple die finder"..............when you have it in your
> sights how do you say "fire" if you have the pneumatic C-frame squeezer
> control in your mouth:-)??
>
> Sorry, I've just got a couple visions of Michael in the workshop: Laser
> sight aligned properly, wind and elevation taken into consideration, time to
> fire this thing, "Yes, it works"!! whereupon he mouth activates the C-frame
> laser guided cannon firing off a quick three round burst of 3/32
> dimples....off to one side:-) Wife comes out to the shop for the third
> time, "I said dinner is done, I'm throwing it out if you don't come right
> now", Michael replies, with is bloodshot eyes trained on the laser sight,
> "Just one more shot honey", whereupon he eats zap food from the microwave:-)
>
> Sorry gang, it's early and the RVlist has been a little slow this weekend.
>
> BTW Michael, they would have to pry my cold dead hands from my pneumatic
> squeezer, I'd have to fight someone over it!!
Dana, the "mouth activated" dimpler was developed by a member of our
local group and it is the most amazing dimpling setup I have ever seen.
This individual fabricated a pair of small air cylinders that drive a
conventional dimpling frame. The rig is activated by a slight "puff"
into a small plastic hose that is held in the mouth. That way you have
both hands to manage the skin stock and get everything lined up. The
laser light pen is mounted on the rig so you can see a target that shows
precisely where the dimple dies are going to hit.
What makes this rig superior to the other attempts at airdriven C-frame
tools is that the travel of the cylinders is limited to the exact amount
needed to form a proper dimple. Other systems allow the cylinders to
"spread" the frame because their travel isn't limited beyond the
resistance of the C-frame.
I know this sounds bizarre, but the rig is incredible to watch in
action. It works perfectly....every dimple!
I encouraged this innovative individual to modify the "puff control"
into a footswitch so you don't get a rapid set of dimples if you
unexpectedly try to cough up an errant mosquito or if the mouth control
just seemed too gross for an operator (or if several people wanted to
use the same machine???). It was pretty easy to modify a rubber squeeze
bulb into a footswitch.
Sam Buchanan
http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randy Richter <richterrbb(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin 530 radio reception |
Reading this thread brought up some thoughts I've been mulling over, so, here are
a couple of related but slightly digressive (?) questions.
I've seen some descriptions of Nav radio antennas being placed inside the wingtips.
1) It's only been mentioned being done on one side, which can (obviously)
result in impeded reception in certain aircraft orientations. Can it be done
in both wingtips for 360 degree reception? 2) Can the same be done for Comm antennas?
Thanks for your inputs!
Randy
From: "Brian W. Truitt" <b-l-t(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin 530 radio reception
Hi Doug
That big metal prop whirling around in front will disturb a radiation pattern.
Probably more than the nose wheel, especially in a descent. The bent antenna
on our -7 is about a foot forward of the rear spar and a few inches inboard from
the side. No directional problems have been noticed with many transmissions
directly in front. I would suspect the coax and connectors are okay as it
works fine in other dircetions. Best check is with a power meter inserted in
the coax near the 530 and check for reflected power.
Brian Truitt RV-7 C-GZXM flying and for sale.
(250) 897-0260
b-l-t(at)shaw.ca
----- Original Message -----
From: Doug Weiler
To: RV List
Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2003 1:34 PM
Subject: RV-List: Garmin 530 radio reception
Fellow Listers:
One of our members who is not on the List has a recently completed RV-7A
with a multitude of electronic goodies. This aircraft is all electric with
dual alternators, batteries, and dual Lightspeed electronic ignition. The
primary radio is a Garmin 530. The antenna for this radio is located on the
belly (bent whip) under the seats (just forward of the spar carry-through
structure). His problem is poor reception from a ground station when the
airplane is pointed at the station. This is very directional. He says when
he turns the airplane left or right of the station (ATIS, for example), the
reception is clear and strong. But when pointed directly at the source
(from greater than 15 miles out), the reception is weak and scratchy. It
seems to be blocked by something.... nosewheel, ????... don't know.
Any ideas?? Has anyone else reported something similar with a tri-gear RV.
How about the antenna cable? It's a 50 ohm cable. How can he check the
integrity and performance of this cable?
Your help is greatly appreciated!!
Thanks
Doug Weiler
pres, MN Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Tool Nerd / Pneumatic C-frame |
Is there a link to check it out? I seem to recall at least some pictures
somewhere at one time.
This sounds like a really great idea!
Bob Hassel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sam Buchanan
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tool Nerd / Pneumatic C-frame
Dana Overall wrote:
>
>
> >From: "Michael Saffold" <michaelsaffold(at)hotmail.com>
> >First, I freely admit that I am a tool nerd. Building my RV-7 has allowed
> >my love of tools and tool acquisition to soar to new heights. >
> >I think I can handle the laser sight dimple die finder myself.
> >
>
> The "laser sight dimple die finder"..............when you have it in your
> sights how do you say "fire" if you have the pneumatic C-frame squeezer
> control in your mouth:-)??
>
> Sorry, I've just got a couple visions of Michael in the workshop: Laser
> sight aligned properly, wind and elevation taken into consideration, time
to
> fire this thing, "Yes, it works"!! whereupon he mouth activates the
C-frame
> laser guided cannon firing off a quick three round burst of 3/32
> dimples....off to one side:-) Wife comes out to the shop for the third
> time, "I said dinner is done, I'm throwing it out if you don't come right
> now", Michael replies, with is bloodshot eyes trained on the laser sight,
> "Just one more shot honey", whereupon he eats zap food from the
microwave:-)
>
> Sorry gang, it's early and the RVlist has been a little slow this weekend.
>
> BTW Michael, they would have to pry my cold dead hands from my pneumatic
> squeezer, I'd have to fight someone over it!!
Dana, the "mouth activated" dimpler was developed by a member of our
local group and it is the most amazing dimpling setup I have ever seen.
This individual fabricated a pair of small air cylinders that drive a
conventional dimpling frame. The rig is activated by a slight "puff"
into a small plastic hose that is held in the mouth. That way you have
both hands to manage the skin stock and get everything lined up. The
laser light pen is mounted on the rig so you can see a target that shows
precisely where the dimple dies are going to hit.
What makes this rig superior to the other attempts at airdriven C-frame
tools is that the travel of the cylinders is limited to the exact amount
needed to form a proper dimple. Other systems allow the cylinders to
"spread" the frame because their travel isn't limited beyond the
resistance of the C-frame.
I know this sounds bizarre, but the rig is incredible to watch in
action. It works perfectly....every dimple!
I encouraged this innovative individual to modify the "puff control"
into a footswitch so you don't get a rapid set of dimples if you
unexpectedly try to cough up an errant mosquito or if the mouth control
just seemed too gross for an operator (or if several people wanted to
use the same machine???). It was pretty easy to modify a rubber squeeze
bulb into a footswitch.
Sam Buchanan
http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin 530 radio reception |
In a message dated 08/31/2003 8:19:12 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
richterrbb(at)earthlink.net writes:
> Reading this thread brought up some thoughts I've been mulling over, so,
> here are a couple of related but slightly digressive (?) questions.
>
> I've seen some descriptions of Nav radio antennas being placed inside the
> wingtips. 1) It's only been mentioned being done on one side, which can
> (obviously) result in impeded reception in certain aircraft orientations. Can
it be
> done in both wingtips for 360 degree reception? 2) Can the same be done for
> Comm antennas?
>
> Thanks for your inputs!
>
> Randy
>
Hi Randy,
Although it doesn't seem to be obvious, the "standard" VOR antenna has
impeded reception regardless of where it is mounted on the airframe.
The Sportcraft wingtip NAV antenna will always perform better than the
"standard" VOR antenna. Part of the reason for this is that the airframe itself
forms the ground plane for the Sportcraft wingtip NAV antenna.
Sportcraft Antenna's has a wingtip COM antenna for the standard RV wingtip.
However, because the COM antenna requires vertical polarization, it only works
as well as the bent whip belly mounted antenna.
The newer RV "sheared" wingtips do not allow adequate vertical height for the
Sportcraft wingtip COM antenna to function well.
The same holds true for the "Hot Tips" from Massey Aircraft Services.
Jim Ayers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin 530 radio reception |
>
>In a message dated 08/31/2003 8:19:12 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
>richterrbb(at)earthlink.net writes:
>
>
>> Reading this thread brought up some thoughts I've been mulling over, so,
>> here are a couple of related but slightly digressive (?) questions.
>>
>> I've seen some descriptions of Nav radio antennas being placed inside the
>> wingtips. 1) It's only been mentioned being done on one side, which can
>> (obviously) result in impeded reception in certain aircraft
>>orientations. Can it be
>> done in both wingtips for 360 degree reception? 2) Can the same be done for
>> Comm antennas?
>>
>> Thanks for your inputs!
>>
>> Randy
>>
>
>Hi Randy,
>
>Although it doesn't seem to be obvious, the "standard" VOR antenna has
>impeded reception regardless of where it is mounted on the airframe.
>The Sportcraft wingtip NAV antenna will always perform better than the
>"standard" VOR antenna. Part of the reason for this is that the
>airframe itself
>forms the ground plane for the Sportcraft wingtip NAV antenna.
>
>Sportcraft Antenna's has a wingtip COM antenna for the standard RV wingtip.
>However, because the COM antenna requires vertical polarization, it only works
>as well as the bent whip belly mounted antenna.
>The newer RV "sheared" wingtips do not allow adequate vertical height for the
>Sportcraft wingtip COM antenna to function well.
>The same holds true for the "Hot Tips" from Massey Aircraft Services.
>
>Jim Ayers
>
Bob Archer, the designer of the SportCraft wing tip VOR antenna, says
that you should not try to put one antenna in each side. The antenna
pattern will be quite screwed up, and it will work much worse than if
you just had one antenna. It is hard to believe, but I have read
several reports from RV flyers with single wing tip VOR antenna that
claimed excellent performance even if the VOR was directly on the
other side of the aircraft. So, I say just install one wing tip VOR
antenna, fly it, and see if you get acceptable performance.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Canopy decks...slider |
Greetings Listers:
Those of you who have done a slider on a 6 or 7....The Justice instructions indicate
that the canopy decks F-6110 and F-6113 should not be riveted on until the
finish kit construction. I am ready to start fitting my roll-bar to the fuselage
and was wondering if anyone had riveted them on regardless of what the
Justice instructions say. I assume his concern was routing wires to the aft of
the fuselage as well as running wires up to the panel from the wings. Seems
to me I can accomplish those things with these decks riveted in.
Am I missing something here?
Thanks in advance
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
finish kit
Peshtigo, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BillDube(at)killacycle.com" <BillDube(at)killacycle.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tool Nerd / Pneumatic C-frame |
>
> So, you may understand why I need/want/whatever, an automatic foot
> switch activated pneumatic C-frame dimpler. I know several people have
> created fine examples of this totally unnecessary must have item.
I built a foot pedal for my "Mongo-Squeeze" Chicago Pneumatic 351
with 9 inch alligator jaws. I bought this monster on Ebay for $100.
If you can build an airplane, you should have absolutely no
trouble building a foot pedal.
Here are a couple of pictures:
http://www.killacycle.com/mongo1.jpg
http://www.killacycle.com/mongo2.jpg
Indeed, I welded the post for the pedal, but you could easily make
the stand without welding. The cable is a bicycle brake cable. The
adjusters are also from a bicycle.
It is important to have a pedal or a lever instead of a "switch"
to operate a squeezer. You need to be able to smoothly and gradually
throttle the air pressure to place the die in position lightly before
applying any serious force. This allows you to avoid a lot of mistakes. It
also eliminates the need for any sort of laser pointer or aiming device.
My CP 214 has a detent built in that allows you to set the die in
position before you move the lever to full "on" position.
Bill Dube
http://www.killacycle.com/Lights.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BillDube(at)killacycle.com" <BillDube(at)killacycle.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oops, wrong URL(was: Tool Nerd / Pneumatic C-frame) |
The correct URL
Here are a couple of pictures:
http://www.killacycle.com/mongo1.JPG
http://www.killacycle.com/mongo2.JPG
Bill Dube
http://www.killacycle.com/Lights.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Canopy decks...slider |
In a message dated 8/31/03 10:14:17 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
jorear(at)new.rr.com writes:
Greetings Listers:
Those of you who have done a slider on a 6 or 7....The Justice instructions
indicate that the canopy decks F-6110 and F-6113 should not be riveted on
until the finish kit construction. I am ready to start fitting my roll-bar to
the
fuselage and was wondering if anyone had riveted them on regardless of what
the Justice instructions say. I assume his concern was routing wires to the
aft of the fuselage as well as running wires up to the panel from the wings.
Seems to me I can accomplish those things with these decks riveted in. >>
FWIW I find it is very difficult (in my case impracticle if not impossible)
to get under these decks to drill pass through holes for wiring. I would
definitely put any feed throughs I might ever want up there before riveting those
decks in place.
I also suggest putting nutplates in the decks for the canopy rail screws,
it's a lot easier than struggling to put nuts on the screws up under those decks,
but that's just my $0.002 worth.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, firewall forward
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Looking for hangar space in eastern Massachusetts |
Dean I hope you got my msg about the space here at Nashua. I have not seen
the guy yet, but will get info ASAP.
Ray
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dr. Leathers" <DrLeathers(at)822heal.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for hangar space in eastern Massachusetts |
Hi Everyone,
I am just curious about what hanger space is going for around the country. I
have an older, but pretty nice T-hanger at a small family owned airstrip in
Washington State (about 20 minutes from Seattle).
I pay about $230.00 per month, and I am presently sub-letting it to a
friend, in anticipation of building an airplane some time in the future. I'm
happy with the situation, but I would like to hear form other builders
regarding hangers.
By the way, I attended Van's Homecoming this weekend. What a great time! the
highlight for me was seeing a beautiful RV4 with retractable gear and a
sliding canopy! Thanks Mr. Best!
Doc
----- Original Message -----
From: <GRENIER(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Looking for hangar space in eastern Massachusetts
>
> Dean I hope you got my msg about the space here at Nashua. I have not
seen
> the guy yet, but will get info ASAP.
>
> Ray
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BillDube(at)killacycle.com" <BillDube(at)killacycle.com> |
| Subject: | CreativAir Landing Lights with LED Position Lights |
I need to install the Plexiglass and then take it all apart to
trim, buff, and paint everything, but I thought I'd show a picture of what
I have done so far.
http://www.killacycle.com/LEDVonDane1.JPG
http://www.killacycle.com/LEDVonDane2.JPG
These are pictures of Bill VonDane's (http://www.creativair.com)
Wingtip Landing Lights installed with my LED Position Lights. Everything
fits like it is supposed to. Note that you can install a strobe in the
center of the other "wall" of the sheared tip and not block either the
position light or the landing light.
As Hannibal Smith (George Peppard) would say at the end of every A
Team episode "I love it when a plan comes together." :-)
Bill Dube
http://www.killacycle.com/Lights.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Canopy decks...slider |
Amen to both of Harry's suggestions. I've not built two -6's with sliders,
and on the recommedation of others drilled the pass through holes early on.
Also I'll second the nutplats on the decks. Makes it SOOOOO much easier to
remove the rails (and you'll have to more than once).
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6 Minneapolis
http://www.steinair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of HCRV6(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy decks...slider
In a message dated 8/31/03 10:14:17 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
jorear(at)new.rr.com writes:
Greetings Listers:
Those of you who have done a slider on a 6 or 7....The Justice instructions
indicate that the canopy decks F-6110 and F-6113 should not be riveted on
until the finish kit construction. I am ready to start fitting my roll-bar
to the
fuselage and was wondering if anyone had riveted them on regardless of what
the Justice instructions say. I assume his concern was routing wires to the
aft of the fuselage as well as running wires up to the panel from the wings.
Seems to me I can accomplish those things with these decks riveted in. >>
FWIW I find it is very difficult (in my case impracticle if not impossible)
to get under these decks to drill pass through holes for wiring. I would
definitely put any feed throughs I might ever want up there before riveting
those
decks in place.
I also suggest putting nutplates in the decks for the canopy rail screws,
it's a lot easier than struggling to put nuts on the screws up under those
decks,
but that's just my $0.002 worth.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, firewall forward
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy decks...slider |
Stein and Harry:
Thanks for the heads up on the nutplates. I already have pass-through holes
drilled into the F604 bulkhead....Is that the area you are referring to
regarding hard access once the decks are riveted on?
Thanks again.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
finish kit
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Canopy decks...slider
>
> Amen to both of Harry's suggestions. I've not built two -6's with
sliders,
> and on the recommedation of others drilled the pass through holes early
on.
> Also I'll second the nutplats on the decks. Makes it SOOOOO much easier
to
> remove the rails (and you'll have to more than once).
>
> Cheers,
> Stein Bruch
> RV6 Minneapolis
>
> http://www.steinair.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of HCRV6(at)aol.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy decks...slider
>
>
> In a message dated 8/31/03 10:14:17 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> jorear(at)new.rr.com writes:
>
>
> Greetings Listers:
>
> Those of you who have done a slider on a 6 or 7....The Justice
instructions
> indicate that the canopy decks F-6110 and F-6113 should not be riveted on
> until the finish kit construction. I am ready to start fitting my
roll-bar
> to the
> fuselage and was wondering if anyone had riveted them on regardless of
what
> the Justice instructions say. I assume his concern was routing wires to
the
> aft of the fuselage as well as running wires up to the panel from the
wings.
> Seems to me I can accomplish those things with these decks riveted in. >>
>
> FWIW I find it is very difficult (in my case impracticle if not
impossible)
> to get under these decks to drill pass through holes for wiring. I would
> definitely put any feed throughs I might ever want up there before
riveting
> those
> decks in place.
>
> I also suggest putting nutplates in the decks for the canopy rail screws,
> it's a lot easier than struggling to put nuts on the screws up under those
> decks,
> but that's just my $0.002 worth.
>
> Harry Crosby
> Pleasanton, California
> RV-6, firewall forward
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Garmin 530 radio reception |
It should be noted that the previous RV this fellow had was a RV6, and
his new plane is a 7A. He had 1600 hours in the taildragger RV6, and is
now glad he built a trike. He is no longer worrying about strong
crosswinds at his destination.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 366 hours, just back from Van's Homecoming
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
>
>
>
> Doug,
>
> I'd suspect that the nosegear is blocking it. The fix of
> course, would
> to put a tailwheel on it.
>
> Dave 8>) RV6 (naturally)
________________________________________________________________________________
Howdy folks,
My name is Mark DuLaney and I live in Las Vegas, NV. Obviously during the
summer months it is very hot and I find I have a hard time keeping my oil tems
in
the proper range. I have a RV-6A with an IO-360 engine, a modified Bernard
cowling and a fiberglass plenum for cooling. I have Stewart Warner 9 row oil
cooler overhauled last summer. It is located on the firewall behind the #3
cylinder. I know it would be better on the baffeling, but there is not enough room.
My mechanic thinks putting in a naca duct on the side of the cowl and
directing outside air directly to the oil cooler will help. I was wondering if
any
other RV'ers had done or seen this mod? Also, we have thought of louvers on the
bottom of the cowl under the oil cooler to help with exit air flow. Any ideas
on the best type and possible solutions?
Thanks for any and all replys,
Mark DuLaney
dula737(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Pichon" <DeanPichon(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for hangar space in eastern Massachusetts |
Hi Ray,
Thanks, I did receive your earlier message, but am trying to cover all the bases.
I will post a similar message on the BostonRVBuilders yahoo group. Hopefully,
your lead will work out.
Thanks again,
Dean
----- Original Message -----
From: GRENIER(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Looking for hangar space in eastern Massachusetts
Dean I hope you got my msg about the space here at Nashua. I have not seen
the guy yet, but will get info ASAP.
Ray
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Pichon" <DeanPichon(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Notes from the 2nd Annual (Inspection) of my RV-4 |
I just completed the second annual inspection of my RV-4 and thought I would share
some of the findings with everyone. The aircraft has an IO-360 with Lasar
ignition and a Hartzell CS prop. Total time on everything is 157 hours. The airframe
still looks new. The cowl now shows some wear and needs to be "touched-up".
Fortunately, I have not (yet?) broken any eyelets on the cowl hinges. The
other fiberglass has worn reasonably well.
Re-packing of the main gear bearings showed no perceptible wear. Every year I tell
myself I will re-pack bearings only every other year. Maybe next year... The
brake pads looked good and should make it another year. Home base for me is
a 5000+ foot runway so the brakes don't generally get a lot of use.
Last year, I replaced both main tires and tubes. The tires supplied with the kit
had worn down to the casing in one spot. I replaced them with Air Hawk tires
which seem to be lasting well. It looks like I may get two years out of these.
The experience gained in landing the aircraft may have helped the wear issue.
The tail wheel seems to have lots of life left. I recently installed a full swivel
tail wheel and a "steering link". Both are very nice.
The engine looked great. Beside a visual inspection, I merely removed, cleaned,
and gapped the plugs. I have an Airflow Performance fuel injection system. I
removed and cleaned the fuel filter screen. Over the passed year it had accumulated
a very small amount of debris. I would estimate that well under one percent
of the effective filter area contained debris. I often consider cleaning this
filter on an every-other-year basis, but always chicken-out at annual. Similarly,
I removed, cleaned, and lubricated the air filter. Besides a few bugs,
it looked pretty good.
I have a baffle-mounted oil cooler on the port side of the engine. After two years
of vibrating, I noticed two cracks in the aft-most baffle on the port side.
I removed that portion of the baffle, cut-off the damaged material and attached
a heavier gage part in its place. Hopefully, this will last more than two
years. Van's advised me against a baffle mounted cooler, but there is so little
available firewall space in a -4...
I found no evidence of oil or fuel leaks. None of the lines appeared chafed or
worn. The wiring still looks new. I searched for AD's on the "big" components
and found nothing. Thanks to the Listers who provided invaluable advice for searching
for AD's on the internet.
This annual cost me $22.98. I blew $18.75 on a spark plug that I dropped during
removal, and $4.23 for a ratchet adapter to connect my 1/2" spark plug socket
to my 3/8" torque wrench. After spending no less than $1500 on annuals for my
Citabria, this was a welcome change. In summary, I am very pleased with the condition
of my -4 after two years of service, but am concerned that the fiberglass
(especially the cowl) will require constant attention. When I start the -10,
I will likely use screws instead of hinges to attach it and will put more
effort into making it more serviceable.
Respectfully,
Dean Pichon
RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clayton Henderson" <gsuit(at)eonet.net> |
| Subject: | SLIGHTLY OFF TOPIC - KitLog Pro question |
SLIGHTLY OFF TOPIC.
Has anyone ever used KitLog Pro on two computers (i.e. Study and Shop)
but used the same database/log entries folder? I am looking to set this
up so that I can enter log entries as I build in the shop.but then edit
or add pics later after I've cleaned up and sitting in the study.
I have emailed support(at)kitlog.com with no luck so far. I'm sure they
will reply soon, but I figured I would shoot it out to the list for a
quicker response.
Thanks in advance,
Clayton Henderson
RV-7 Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
| Subject: | SLIGHTLY OFF TOPIC - KitLog Pro question |
Run the database off one computer only. Just connect the two computers
together with an Ethernet cable. You'll still have to load Kitlog on
each computer but the program should allow you to point the slave
program to the real data files residing on the other machine.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Clayton
Henderson
Subject: RV-List: SLIGHTLY OFF TOPIC - KitLog Pro question
SLIGHTLY OFF TOPIC.
Has anyone ever used KitLog Pro on two computers (i.e. Study and Shop)
but used the same database/log entries folder? I am looking to set this
up so that I can enter log entries as I build in the shop.but then edit
or add pics later after I've cleaned up and sitting in the study.
I have emailed support(at)kitlog.com with no luck so far. I'm sure they
will reply soon, but I figured I would shoot it out to the list for a
quicker response.
Thanks in advance,
Clayton Henderson
RV-7 Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clayton Henderson" <gsuit(at)eonet.net> |
| Subject: | SLIGHTLY OFF TOPIC - KitLog Pro question |
The computers are networked together now as a workgroup. Your
suggestion is exactly how I would like to do it -- how do I 'point the
slave program t the real data files residing on the other machine'?
Clayton Henderson
RV-7 Fuselage
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Gray
Subject: RE: RV-List: SLIGHTLY OFF TOPIC - KitLog Pro question
Run the database off one computer only. Just connect the two computers
together with an Ethernet cable. You'll still have to load Kitlog on
each computer but the program should allow you to point the slave
program to the real data files residing on the other machine.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Clayton
Henderson
Subject: RV-List: SLIGHTLY OFF TOPIC - KitLog Pro question
SLIGHTLY OFF TOPIC.
Has anyone ever used KitLog Pro on two computers (i.e. Study and Shop)
but used the same database/log entries folder? I am looking to set this
up so that I can enter log entries as I build in the shop.but then edit
or add pics later after I've cleaned up and sitting in the study.
I have emailed support(at)kitlog.com with no luck so far. I'm sure they
will reply soon, but I figured I would shoot it out to the list for a
quicker response.
Thanks in advance,
Clayton Henderson
RV-7 Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Yup,
I agree,
a split S entry above 100mph really gets one focused on the ASI eventually.
On the other hand the entry roll over is somewhat grumpy below that speed.
I've been trying to enter on the up line rather than level so I can lose air
speed while rolling inverted yet keep things positive G. I don't have all
that fancy upsidedown hardware and the magic propeller juicer that most of
you have.
Although I must admit, the two times I really scared myself with airspeed
were both doing very lazy Dutch Rolls and I just let it drop for a little
too long with a little too much power and wazooo in an instant the speed
shot up and that stick got way too stiff for my comfort. In both cases I
had to keep it just above 5 Gs to not blow whizzing by Vne. It was very
disturbing to suddenly realize that adding even more G force was the only
thing I had left to stop airspeed increase. Of course being a real dummy I
had to do it twice just to prove my total lack of mental fortitude.
I highly recommend one carefully and regularly practice the RV's capacity to
accelerate downhill prior to much in the way of complex nose down manuevers
(complex = a manuever that commits one to being nose down for a while).
Horizontal loops (aka tight turns) that are slightly off of horizontal help
me to get a better feel for this while still allowing the ability to roll
out up hill at any point.
Being such a neophyte pilot I practice these prior to much in the way of
loops. Its kinda like practicing slow flight, every time I do it my landings
get better for a while. It also seems to acclimate me to the G's some prior
to being fully upside down. Actually, now that I think of it I'm guessing
you pros might have some other warmup tricks you could share.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
What is the best stuff for removal of aircraft hydraulic fluid from say, a
piece of carpet??
Thanks
Jim Nice
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clayton Henderson" <gsuit(at)eonet.net> |
A good G-Warm technique is to do successive high angle-of-bank turns
(around 65-90 degrees) for a heading change of 90 degrees each dirction,
slightly increasing your g's each turn.
Example: heading 360, level flight, maneuvering speed. Bank left at
65-75 degrees AOB and perform a level, 3-4g turn to a heading of 270.
Roll wings level, and right into a Right turn at the same angle of bank
and same g-loading, back to 360. Roll wings level, and right through to
85-90 degrees AOB left turn, and perform a level 4-5g turn to 270, and
back again to 360.
Clayton Henderson
RV-7 Fuselage
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wheeler North
Subject: RV-List: Split S
Yup,
I agree,
a split S entry above 100mph really gets one focused on the ASI
eventually.
On the other hand the entry roll over is somewhat grumpy below that
speed.
I've been trying to enter on the up line rather than level so I can lose
air
speed while rolling inverted yet keep things positive G. I don't have
all
that fancy upsidedown hardware and the magic propeller juicer that most
of
you have.
Although I must admit, the two times I really scared myself with
airspeed
were both doing very lazy Dutch Rolls and I just let it drop for a
little
too long with a little too much power and wazooo in an instant the speed
shot up and that stick got way too stiff for my comfort. In both cases
I
had to keep it just above 5 Gs to not blow whizzing by Vne. It was very
disturbing to suddenly realize that adding even more G force was the
only
thing I had left to stop airspeed increase. Of course being a real dummy
I
had to do it twice just to prove my total lack of mental fortitude.
I highly recommend one carefully and regularly practice the RV's
capacity to
accelerate downhill prior to much in the way of complex nose down
manuevers
(complex = a manuever that commits one to being nose down for a while).
Horizontal loops (aka tight turns) that are slightly off of horizontal
help
me to get a better feel for this while still allowing the ability to
roll
out up hill at any point.
Being such a neophyte pilot I practice these prior to much in the way of
loops. Its kinda like practicing slow flight, every time I do it my
landings
get better for a while. It also seems to acclimate me to the G's some
prior
to being fully upside down. Actually, now that I think of it I'm
guessing
you pros might have some other warmup tricks you could share.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
I've noticed a puzzling misuse of the term "dutch roll" over the last
few years. Many gen-av pilots seem to use it to describe some sort
of coordination manoeuvre involving rolling the aircraft back and
forth. I'm not sure where this misuse of the term "dutch roll" came
from, but the correct meaning of the term dates back to at least the
early 1950's.
The real dutch roll is a coupled yawing and rolling oscillation that
is especially noted on swept-wing aircraft. Divergent, large
amplitude dutch rolls were responsible for the loss of at least one
Boeing 707 (Braniff, 19 Oct 1959).
More info at:
http://www.douglasdc3.com/sohn/41.htm
It is difficult to communicate if a word has different meanings to
different people, so I decided it was worthwhile to bring this up.
It isn't aimed at any one person, as I've seen "dutch roll" misused
by several people on the list.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com> |
| Subject: | SLIGHTLY OFF TOPIC - KitLog Pro question |
On the computer with the actual database, find the folder where the
database, right click on the folder icon (or the disk icon if you don't
mind sharing the contents of the entire disk), and select properties
from the menu. There should be a 'Sharing' tab in the dialog window
that pops up; select it and then check 'Share this folder' and give the
share a name: ex. kitdata.
On the slave computer, double click 'Network Neighborhood' or 'My
Network Places' depending on which version of Windoze you have, then
select (double-click) Computers Near Me or Entire Network, MS Windows
Network, and your workgroup or your workgroup if it showed up on the
initial Network window (different Win versions act differently.) You
should now see the names of the computers in your workgroup;
double-click the one with the shared files. Now you will see the share
name; right click and select Map Network Drive from the menu. Assign
any available letter to the drive mapping. That letter will be the
letter you give kitlog to locate the database; if you shared the entire
drive, you will also have to give the path as well.
Caveat: On a workgroup, if a shared drive is not available when the
slave computer is booted, you will get a message asking if you want to
reconnect the next time you boot. Choose 'Yes' or it will never make
the connection again until you follow the steps in the second paragrahp
again. It is best if the computer with the master files is turned on
before turning on the slave computer, so that the drive map is always
automatically connected.
Feel free to contact me direct if you have specific questions; hopefully
these general instructions will point you in the right direction.
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - Fuselage struct continues, parts finally
painted!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Clayton
Henderson
Subject: RE: RV-List: SLIGHTLY OFF TOPIC - KitLog Pro question
The computers are networked together now as a workgroup. Your
suggestion is exactly how I would like to do it -- how do I 'point the
slave program t the real data files residing on the other machine'?
Clayton Henderson
RV-7 Fuselage
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Gray
Subject: RE: RV-List: SLIGHTLY OFF TOPIC - KitLog Pro question
Run the database off one computer only. Just connect the two computers
together with an Ethernet cable. You'll still have to load Kitlog on
each computer but the program should allow you to point the slave
program to the real data files residing on the other machine.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Clayton
Henderson
Subject: RV-List: SLIGHTLY OFF TOPIC - KitLog Pro question
SLIGHTLY OFF TOPIC.
Has anyone ever used KitLog Pro on two computers (i.e. Study and Shop)
but used the same database/log entries folder? I am looking to set this
up so that I can enter log entries as I build in the shop.but then edit
or add pics later after I've cleaned up and sitting in the study.
I have emailed support(at)kitlog.com with no luck so far. I'm sure they
will reply soon, but I figured I would shoot it out to the list for a
quicker response.
Thanks in advance,
Clayton Henderson
RV-7 Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | CS props and Acro |
A "big time & famous" airshow pilot gave me some advice once when I was
asking about RVs before I committted to buying one. He (OK, so it wasn't Patty)
told me that even with a constant speed prop he didn't consider the RV a good
acro plane because the props used on 320s/360s weren't effective enough in
braking like his IO-540 size is and because Van really emphasised speed in the
design (ie, RV is too clean). Not here to debate that but it does beg the
question does anyone have enough acro time with and without a CS prop in a RV to
say
there's a usable safety margin on the downhill maneuvers using a CS prop?
lucky
In a message dated 9/1/2003 7:10:23 PM Eastern Standard Time,
wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us writes:
> Subj: RV-List: Split S
> Date: 9/1/2003 7:10:23 PM Eastern Standard Time
> From: <A HREF="mailto:wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us">wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us
> Reply-to: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> To: rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com
> Sent from the Internet
>
>
>
>
> Yup,
>
> I agree,
>
> a split S entry above 100mph really gets one focused on the ASI eventually.
> On the other hand the entry roll over is somewhat grumpy below that speed.
>
> I've been trying to enter on the up line rather than level so I can lose air
> speed while rolling inverted yet keep things positive G. I don't have all
> that fancy upsidedown hardware and the magic propeller juicer that most of
> you have.
>
> Although I must admit, the two times I really scared myself with airspeed
> were both doing very lazy Dutch Rolls and I just let it drop for a little
> too long with a little too much power and wazooo in an instant the speed
> shot up and that stick got way too stiff for my comfort. In both cases I
> had to keep it just above 5 Gs to not blow whizzing by Vne. It was very
> disturbing to suddenly realize that adding even more G force was the only
> thing I had left to stop airspeed increase. Of course being a real dummy I
> had to do it twice just to prove my total lack of mental fortitude.
>
> I highly recommend one carefully and regularly practice the RV's capacity to
> accelerate downhill prior to much in the way of complex nose down manuevers
> (complex = a manuever that commits one to being nose down for a while).
> Horizontal loops (aka tight turns) that are slightly off of horizontal help
> me to get a better feel for this while still allowing the ability to roll
> out up hill at any point.
>
> Being such a neophyte pilot I practice these prior to much in the way of
> loops. Its kinda like practicing slow flight, every time I do it my landings
> get better for a while. It also seems to acclimate me to the G's some prior
> to being fully upside down. Actually, now that I think of it I'm guessing
> you pros might have some other warmup tricks you could share.
>
> W
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Oh, forgot to say that in USAF pilot training, they really stressed not to
get lazy on barrel rolls because if you were "lazy" it was easy to come out in
a
sort of split S instead of rolling on through the horizon correctly inverted.
Sometimes USAF personnel did barrel rolls at a speed and altitude that
could and did kill or severly over G the AC if you did a split S by accident. I've
flown acro with some civilians who never had proper training and wondered if
their time would come.
In a message dated 9/1/2003 7:10:23 PM Eastern Standard Time,
wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us writes:
> Subj: RV-List: Split S
> Date: 9/1/2003 7:10:23 PM Eastern Standard Time
> From: <A HREF="mailto:wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us">wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us
> Reply-to: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> To: rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com
> Sent from the Internet
>
>
>
>
> Yup,
>
> I agree,
>
> a split S entry above 100mph really gets one focused on the ASI eventually.
> On the other hand the entry roll over is somewhat grumpy below that speed.
>
> I've been trying to enter on the up line rather than level so I can lose air
> speed while rolling inverted yet keep things positive G. I don't have all
> that fancy upsidedown hardware and the magic propeller juicer that most of
> you have.
>
> Although I must admit, the two times I really scared myself with airspeed
> were both doing very lazy Dutch Rolls and I just let it drop for a little
> too long with a little too much power and wazooo in an instant the speed
> shot up and that stick got way too stiff for my comfort. In both cases I
> had to keep it just above 5 Gs to not blow whizzing by Vne. It was very
> disturbing to suddenly realize that adding even more G force was the only
> thing I had left to stop airspeed increase. Of course being a real dummy I
> had to do it twice just to prove my total lack of mental fortitude.
>
> I highly recommend one carefully and regularly practice the RV's capacity to
> accelerate downhill prior to much in the way of complex nose down manuevers
> (complex = a manuever that commits one to being nose down for a while).
> Horizontal loops (aka tight turns) that are slightly off of horizontal help
> me to get a better feel for this while still allowing the ability to roll
> out up hill at any point.
>
> Being such a neophyte pilot I practice these prior to much in the way of
> loops. Its kinda like practicing slow flight, every time I do it my landings
> get better for a while. It also seems to acclimate me to the G's some prior
> to being fully upside down. Actually, now that I think of it I'm guessing
> you pros might have some other warmup tricks you could share.
>
> W
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:Hydraulic Fluid |
You might first try isopropyl alcohol(Rubbing Alcohol). This shouldn't damage
the carpet.
MEK or Acetone might dissolve the fibres in synthetic carpet.
After alcohol,follow-up with stain remover.
Just my guess,
Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
Charleston, Arkansas
"Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kosta Lewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
>I've noticed a puzzling misuse of the term "dutch roll" over the last
>few years. Many gen-av pilots seem to use it to describe some sort
>of coordination maneuver involving rolling the aircraft back and
>forth...........
Well, maybe not misused. Perhaps slang would be a better word. I first
learned about "Dutch rolls" in the early '70s when I was learning to
fly. It is a "banking without turning" and is a maneuver to teach
coordination. I do it every time I get in a new airplane to help get the
feel for what inputs do what. Silly? You bet. Works for me. The name
"Dutch roll" was just easier to say than "banking without turning or the
nose rising or falling" or "banking with the nose on a point". Correct?
No. Do most people know what you are referring to? Probably. Except
those swept wing jet jocks. I vote to keep it.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Calhoun" <roncal(at)earthlink.net> |
I have a friend looking for a Warkne wood prop. Yeller page phone number is
no good. Anyone know what their new number is?
Ron Calhoun
RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kosta Lewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
>A good G-Warm technique is to do successive high angle-of-bank turns
>(around 65-90 degrees) for a heading change of 90 degrees each
dirction,
>slightly increasing your g's each turn........
Um.....you mean you're not supposed to do that every time you go flying?
Rats. If there isn't 2-3 G's on the meter, I haven't gone flying. Or I
was with a passenger.
One of my favorite warm up maneuvers is a steep bank, maintaining
altitude. Not as easy as it sounds. The Whump at the end is the reward
for having kept altitude. I had an aerobatic instructor tell me one time
he could do good aerobatics all day but had problems maintaining
altitude in a steep bank.
Oh; and Dutch rolls. I also like to do what I call the cinnamon roll:
banking with the nose on a point but the nose also going up and down as
the bank changes from left to right. Oh, the things we do.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
Kosta Lewis wrote:
>
>
>
>>I've noticed a puzzling misuse of the term "dutch roll" over the last
>>few years. Many gen-av pilots seem to use it to describe some sort
>>of coordination maneuver involving rolling the aircraft back and
>>forth...........
>>
>>
>
>Well, maybe not misused. Perhaps slang would be a better word. I first
>learned about "Dutch rolls" in the early '70s when I was learning to
>fly. It is a "banking without turning" and is a maneuver to teach
>coordination. I do it every time I get in a new airplane to help get the
>feel for what inputs do what. Silly? You bet. Works for me. The name
>"Dutch roll" was just easier to say than "banking without turning or the
>nose rising or falling" or "banking with the nose on a point". Correct?
>No. Do most people know what you are referring to? Probably. Except
>those swept wing jet jocks. I vote to keep it.
>
>Michael
>
>
>
You are so right, "dutch rol"l has been used in aviation to describe a
maneuver that is rolling side to side and using
coordinated rudder/aileron input to keep the nose of the airplane from
wallowing side to side. If dutch rolls are done properly
the airplane well roll side to side just like it had a wire going
through it to keep it on a straight line.This term has been used
to describe this maneuver at least since the early 1960s when I learned
to fly. If you roll quickly side to side without
rudder the nose of the airplane well actually start to swing in the
opposite direction of the roll due to adverse yaw.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gilalex(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Warkne Props |
From the Tucson Qwest Yellow Pages (the business pages white section)
Warnke Propellers
8405 N. Via Socorro
Tucson AZ 85653
520-884-8132
...gil in Tucson
>
>I have a friend looking for a Warkne wood prop. Yeller page phone number is
>no good. Anyone know what their new number is?
>
>Ron Calhoun
>RV-4
>
>
RV-6A, #20701 .. fitting out firewall...
77 Tiger N28478 at 57AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
Just a quick addition to this topic just in case someone hasnt heard this
yet.
Make sure you unload before throwing all of that aileron in. Assymetric g's
are much harder on the plane than symmetric.
Shemp
----- Original Message -----
From: "Clayton Henderson" <gsuit(at)eonet.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Split S
>
> A good G-Warm technique is to do successive high angle-of-bank turns
> (around 65-90 degrees) for a heading change of 90 degrees each dirction,
> slightly increasing your g's each turn.
>
> Example: heading 360, level flight, maneuvering speed. Bank left at
> 65-75 degrees AOB and perform a level, 3-4g turn to a heading of 270.
> Roll wings level, and right into a Right turn at the same angle of bank
> and same g-loading, back to 360. Roll wings level, and right through to
> 85-90 degrees AOB left turn, and perform a level 4-5g turn to 270, and
> back again to 360.
>
> Clayton Henderson
> RV-7 Fuselage
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wheeler North
> To: 'RV-List Digest Server '
> Subject: RV-List: Split S
>
>
> Yup,
>
> I agree,
>
> a split S entry above 100mph really gets one focused on the ASI
> eventually.
> On the other hand the entry roll over is somewhat grumpy below that
> speed.
>
> I've been trying to enter on the up line rather than level so I can lose
> air
> speed while rolling inverted yet keep things positive G. I don't have
> all
> that fancy upsidedown hardware and the magic propeller juicer that most
> of
> you have.
>
> Although I must admit, the two times I really scared myself with
> airspeed
> were both doing very lazy Dutch Rolls and I just let it drop for a
> little
> too long with a little too much power and wazooo in an instant the speed
> shot up and that stick got way too stiff for my comfort. In both cases
> I
> had to keep it just above 5 Gs to not blow whizzing by Vne. It was very
> disturbing to suddenly realize that adding even more G force was the
> only
> thing I had left to stop airspeed increase. Of course being a real dummy
> I
> had to do it twice just to prove my total lack of mental fortitude.
>
> I highly recommend one carefully and regularly practice the RV's
> capacity to
> accelerate downhill prior to much in the way of complex nose down
> manuevers
> (complex = a manuever that commits one to being nose down for a while).
> Horizontal loops (aka tight turns) that are slightly off of horizontal
> help
> me to get a better feel for this while still allowing the ability to
> roll
> out up hill at any point.
>
> Being such a neophyte pilot I practice these prior to much in the way of
> loops. Its kinda like practicing slow flight, every time I do it my
> landings
> get better for a while. It also seems to acclimate me to the G's some
> prior
> to being fully upside down. Actually, now that I think of it I'm
> guessing
> you pros might have some other warmup tricks you could share.
>
> W
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
I didnt know what it meant.
Shemp
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kosta Lewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Dutch Rolls
>
> >I've noticed a puzzling misuse of the term "dutch roll" over the last
> >few years. Many gen-av pilots seem to use it to describe some sort
> >of coordination maneuver involving rolling the aircraft back and
> >forth...........
>
> Well, maybe not misused. Perhaps slang would be a better word. I first
> learned about "Dutch rolls" in the early '70s when I was learning to
> fly. It is a "banking without turning" and is a maneuver to teach
> coordination. I do it every time I get in a new airplane to help get the
> feel for what inputs do what. Silly? You bet. Works for me. The name
> "Dutch roll" was just easier to say than "banking without turning or the
> nose rising or falling" or "banking with the nose on a point". Correct?
> No. Do most people know what you are referring to? Probably. Except
> those swept wing jet jocks. I vote to keep it.
>
> Michael
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R. Perry McConnell" <rpm(at)rpmpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Warkne Props |
Don't think there is one, anymore. The website which used to say only
"coming soon" is now defunct (www.warnkeairproducts.com), and of the two
numbers I found for them last fall, one had a recording that gave the
other number, and leaving a message on the other ("Thank you for calling
Warnke Air Products", etc.) resulted in no response whatsoever.
Rumor at the a/p (and this is rumor only, and unsubstantiated) was that
Mr. Warnke died and that his wife or daughter tried to continue running
the business with one of his proteges making the propellers.
Apparently, things did not work out.
Unfortunately, the one I have is going to get hung in my office as
artwork, as it no longer appears airworthy. Gave up on it last fall
after being unable to contact the Warnke operation. It's a shame, it
was a heck of a little prop while it was trustworthy.
Regards,
Perry
Ron Calhoun wrote:
>
>I have a friend looking for a Warkne wood prop. Yeller page phone number is
>no good. Anyone know what their new number is?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
>
>>I've noticed a puzzling misuse of the term "dutch roll" over the last
>>few years. Many gen-av pilots seem to use it to describe some sort
>>of coordination maneuver involving rolling the aircraft back and
>>forth...........
>
>Well, maybe not misused. Perhaps slang would be a better word. I first
>learned about "Dutch rolls" in the early '70s when I was learning to
>fly. It is a "banking without turning" and is a maneuver to teach
>coordination. I do it every time I get in a new airplane to help get the
>feel for what inputs do what. Silly? You bet. Works for me. The name
>"Dutch roll" was just easier to say than "banking without turning or the
>nose rising or falling" or "banking with the nose on a point". Correct?
>No. Do most people know what you are referring to? Probably. Except
>those swept wing jet jocks. I vote to keep it.
>
>Michael
>
And there is nothing wrong with slang, as long as all the people
involved in the conversation know what it means. The problem comes
when it is used outside of its home environment as then people don't
know what the heck is being talked about.
Anyway, I'm glad to finally know what people mean when they use Dutch
roll in this way. To me it has always being a combined oscillatory
rolling and yawing manoeuvre that the aircraft either did all by
itself, or that I deliberately triggered in a flight test to see how
quickly it damped out. And its not just swept wing jets that have a
tendency to Dutch roll. The tail wagging motion in turbulence that
people moan about in V-tail Bonanzas is Dutch roll. There is just a
lot more yaw than roll in the Dutch roll in that aircraft.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Calhoun" <roncal(at)earthlink.net> |
I would like to know some comparable prop makers if someone has gone through
this before.
When you get over a thousand dollars for a wood prop, might as well buy a
metal prop.
Thanks for the help.
Ron Calhoun
RV-4 Test flight soon
Don't think there is one, anymore. The website which used to say only
"coming soon" is now defunct (www.warnkeairproducts.com), and of the two
numbers I found for them last fall, one had a recording that gave the
other number, and leaving a message on the other ("Thank you for calling
Warnke Air Products", etc.) resulted in no response whatsoever.
Ron Calhoun wrote:
>
>I have a friend looking for a Warkne wood prop. Yeller page phone number is
>no good. Anyone know what their new number is?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Schaefer" <dschaefer1(at)kc.rr.com> |
I'm getting ready to paint the interior of my QB and wonder what folks
are doing about cleaning the 'wash primer' that comes from the
Philippians. There is a cosmolene (sp?)like residue that protected the
aircraft during the ocean transit. How do you clean it off with out
removing the primer. Can you then paint the base primer directly on-top
of the wash primer?
Your help will be appreciated.
Regards,
David Schaefer
RV6A QB - Paint
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Microair Transponder Problem |
Has anyone else had problems with there microair transponder? Every time I take
off from my home airport (which is a class C) the tower reports my transponder
is not reporting (no mode A or C). The transponder is showing replies the
entire time. After about 10 minutes they say the transponder is on and everything
is solid. I have moved and replaced the antenna and cable. I about to send
the unit back for repair, unless someone has a suggestion.
Thanks
Alan Kritzman
RV-8 N8EM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Warkne Props |
I have a Sterba: http://www.greatplainsas.com/ed.html
I love the prop, nice performance envelope.. Ed is great to work with, and
he offers free repitches for the life of the prop, but you probably wont
need it...
Bill VonDane
RV-8A
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Calhoun" <roncal(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Warkne Props
I would like to know some comparable prop makers if someone has gone through
this before.
When you get over a thousand dollars for a wood prop, might as well buy a
metal prop.
Thanks for the help.
Ron Calhoun
RV-4 Test flight soon
Don't think there is one, anymore. The website which used to say only
"coming soon" is now defunct (www.warnkeairproducts.com), and of the two
numbers I found for them last fall, one had a recording that gave the
other number, and leaving a message on the other ("Thank you for calling
Warnke Air Products", etc.) resulted in no response whatsoever.
Ron Calhoun wrote:
>
>I have a friend looking for a Warkne wood prop. Yeller page phone number is
>no good. Anyone know what their new number is?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Painting a QB |
In a message dated 9/2/03 8:15:52 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
dschaefer1(at)kc.rr.com writes:
> I'm getting ready to paint the interior of my QB and wonder what folks
> are doing about cleaning the 'wash primer' that comes from the
> Philippines. There is a cosmolene (sp?)like residue that protected the
> aircraft during the ocean transit. How do you clean it off without
> removing the primer. Can you then paint the base primer directly on-top
> of the wash primer?
>
>
I wiped it down with mineral spirits then painted. Paint is holding well
after four years.
Dale Ensing
RV6AQB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Kevin Horton wrote:
To me it has always being a combined oscillatory
> rolling and yawing manoeuvre that the aircraft either did all by
> itself, or that I deliberately triggered in a flight test to see how
> quickly it damped out. And its not just swept wing jets that have a
> tendency to Dutch roll. The tail wagging motion in turbulence that
> people moan about in V-tail Bonanzas is Dutch roll.
And those of us with the "classic, small tailed" RVs know about Dutch
roll in turbulence as well, especially when using a wing leveler. :-)
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Microair Transponder Problem |
Sound like you need to turn it on at Start as it does take some time to warm
up.
----- Original Message -----
From: <N13eer(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Microair Transponder Problem
>
> Has anyone else had problems with there microair transponder? Every time
I take off from my home airport (which is a class C) the tower reports my
transponder is not reporting (no mode A or C). The transponder is showing
replies the entire time. After about 10 minutes they say the transponder is
on and everything is solid. I have moved and replaced the antenna and
cable. I about to send the unit back for repair, unless someone has a
suggestion.
>
> Thanks
> Alan Kritzman
> RV-8 N8EM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert E. Lynch" <rv6lynch(at)earthlink.net> |
Enough of the guessing what a Dutch roll is.
I have been teaching future airplane drivers for about 39 years[dam am I
that old]. The Dutch roll is a maneuver I use when I get a lazy rudder
driver. It is simply holding the nose on a spot on the horizon a nd rocking
the wings left and right without moving the nose off the spot. Try it , is a
great tool to teach coordination. Just be careful you don't make some one
barf. It is not as easy as it seems. Remember the nose cannot move off your
spot.
Robert E. Lynch
RV Check Pilot
6507 Old Lohman Rd.
Jefferson City, MO. 65109
573-893-2291
rv6lynch(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-10 Order Info |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
I hadn't heard anything from Van's on my -10 order fax so I called this
morning to check on it. Since I've seen a little bit of conflicting
info about how many they're planning on I though I'd pass along what
they said:
- They're still getting over the initial demand shock
- They've increased the initial order twice from 50 to 100 and then to
150
- They're still saying that they expect to start shipping emp kits in
mid September
- As of last week they had sold somewhere between 102 and 104 kits
Good news is that based on the above, it appears that everybody that's
placed an order so far will be getting it from the first batch.
Anybody in the Omaha area willing to give a newbie an intro to building?
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Crosley, Rich" <RCROSLEY(at)HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM> |
If you're interested in the KMD-150 GPS, big screen, check out ebay, item #
2430675584
Rich Crosley
RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "GMC" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca> |
| Subject: | Microair Transponder Problem |
Subject: RV-List: Microair Transponder Problem
Has anyone else had problems with there microair transponder? Every time I
take off from my home airport (which is a class C) the tower reports my
transponder is not reporting (no mode A or C). The transponder is showing
replies the entire time. After about 10 minutes they say the transponder is
on and everything is solid. I have moved and replaced the antenna and
cable. I about to send the unit back for repair, unless someone has a
suggestion.
Thanks
Alan Kritzman
RV-8 N8EM
-----------------------------------------
Hi Allen
If we talking only the mode "C" altitude reply from the transponder my
understanding is that the altitude encoder has a small heater inside which
takes several minutes to come up to operating temperature. Prior to that
there is no altitude output from the encoder to the transponder and hence to
ATC. This is easy to see on transponders like my UPSAT SL-70 which shows the
altitude output.
Try turning the system "on" to standby immediately after starting the engine
to give it time to warm up before departure.
George McNutt
Langley, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smoothweasel(at)juno.com |
Does anyone have any advise on the choice of
engine breather configurations. I am considering one of the following:
1 Running a line to the tail
2 using a separator tank and then venting at the bottom of the cowl
3 venting into the exhaust
I like the idea of venting in the exhaust but won't it still cause a mess
on the belly or will it be completely burned? The other options could be
used but seem more complex.
Also when plumbing the pitot tube to the airspeed, is it
necessary to use AN line or is nylon sufficient?
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Microair Transponder Problem |
>Has anyone else had problems with there microair transponder? Every time I
>take off from my home airport (which is a class C) the tower reports my
>transponder is not reporting (no mode A or C). The transponder is showing
>replies the entire time. After about 10 minutes they say the transponder
>is
>on and everything is solid. I have moved and replaced the antenna and
>cable. I about to send the unit back for repair, unless someone has a
>suggestion.
>
>Thanks
>Alan Kritzman
>RV-8 N8EM
Alan,
Have you had the same trouble at any other Class C/B airport? Might be
something unique to the area, and your installation. Also, I'm not
completely sure about this but I think the indicator on the transponder is
showing you that it is being interrogated by ATC, but not necessarily that
you are returning anything.
I would next try to get a code from the tower while on the ground and
stationary and see if they pick anything up, then wait while you start
timing on your watch. If it suddenly appears on their screens, you might
indeed have a flakey transponder, or it just likes to warm up and stretch
first before being put into service! I always power up my transponder after
I energize the avionics master (after enigne start with stable bus voltage)
and put it in standby mode so that it is up to operating temp before I
actually need it. I know that my VAL Com radio likes to warm up a bit on
cold winter days. I get a strange overtone in the headset for a few minutes
during tansmit or receive until it has been on for a few minutes.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Birkelbach" <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Painting a QB |
I primed my interior with the same stuff that Van's uses on the QB's and
when I went to paint the interior I was told to scuff it up, clean it well
and re-prime, but don't use another self-etching primer, something about the
acid in the self-etching primer not being well recieved by the primer that
is there. I scuffed with a scotchbrite pad and cleaned it up with some MEK.
So far it seems to be sticking pretty well.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Canopy
http://www.myrv7.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Schaefer" <dschaefer1(at)kc.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: Painting a QB
>
>
> I'm getting ready to paint the interior of my QB and wonder what folks
> are doing about cleaning the 'wash primer' that comes from the
> Philippians. There is a cosmolene (sp?)like residue that protected the
> aircraft during the ocean transit. How do you clean it off with out
> removing the primer. Can you then paint the base primer directly on-top
> of the wash primer?
>
> Your help will be appreciated.
>
> Regards,
>
> David Schaefer
> RV6A QB - Paint
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Blazey <blazey(at)direcpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Breather vent |
Plastic is used on many certificated aircraft and is fine.
smoothweasel(at)juno.com wrote:
>
> Does anyone have any advise on the choice of
> engine breather configurations. I am considering one of the following:
> 1 Running a line to the tail
> 2 using a separator tank and then venting at the bottom of the cowl
> 3 venting into the exhaust
>
> I like the idea of venting in the exhaust but won't it still cause a mess
> on the belly or will it be completely burned? The other options could be
> used but seem more complex.
>
> Also when plumbing the pitot tube to the airspeed, is it
> necessary to use AN line or is nylon sufficient?
>
> The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
> Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: CS props and Acro & Split S |
| From: | "David.vonLinsowe" <David.vonLinsowe(at)delphi.com> |
If you want maximum prop braking (as in speed braking) I would highly recommend
MT's MTV-12-B/183-59, 3 bladed prop.
Less gyroscopic forces due to much lighter blades than a Hartzell, aircraft acceleration
from and standstill is noticeably more pronounced and it will glide
like a Pitts! 1000' agl close in pattern, pull the power at the end of the runway
and turn. After the 180 degree turn you will land on the numbers.
I don't have the counterweighted version so I didn't get carried away with doing
a lot of acro with it, no up and down line stuff.
Ex-Pitts driver, relatively new RV pilot observations.
RV's can be good "sport" or "gentleman" aerobatic airplanes. If flown within their
limitations and you must understand that their limitations are narrower than
an "aerobatic" airplane.
My Pitts had a 40 mph spread between cruise and red line. My RV has 20 mph. You
had to work at it to get the Pitts to red line, not just "oops". Flying wires,
struts, two wings and a large diameter prop all add up to a lot of drag when
you need it.
Guys have had Pitts' to 9 g's and nothing broke or bent, I had mine to +7 -4.5.
From the load pictures I've seen from Van's I think that RV's start to bend
at 6 g's. And that's just the wing, who knows about the tail...
I've done a lot of stuff with the Pitts, I won't even loop a RV without a g meter
in it... I may be overly cautious, but I've seen enough model airplanes come
apart in the air to know I don't want to be in one that does.
Spins. The Pitts would come out of any spin (upright or inverted, accelerated
or flat) with the Beggs emergency spin recovery technique, throttle closed, let
go of the stick and opposite rudder (opposite rudder will be the heavy rudder,
in some spins your first guess at which way you're rotating will be wrong).
With a RV you're a real test pilot doing any of these. I don't know about the
RV, but the Pitts would gently go into a real nice inverted flat spin at the
top of a hammer if you were too far on your back and holding a little extra
down elevator.
The Pitts locked on and "grooved" (pattern flier term) better than the RV. I found
it easier to fly the Pitts more accurately than the RV. My wife, a non pilot
and sometimes autopilot, even commented how much easier it was to fly the
Pitts straight and level than the RV.
I do miss the hardcore acro the Pitts provided. I don't miss how long it took
to strap it on, though it still seems a little strange to fly without a chute.
And I don't miss thinking about what "if" and would my passenger get out too...
I really enjoy the fact that you can tailor the RV to be what you want it to be
(my Pitts was certified, no mods allowed and it could have used some). In my
case with the RV, I'm scheming on how I'm going to make it faster through aerodynamic
clean up.
Acro can be the most fun you can have with your clothes on! It can also kill you
and does kill every year. Treat it with respect that it deserves, especially
with a RV because it's not as forgiving as a Pitts.
One more observation. I call it "non-completion-itis" probably caused by first
time acro sensory overload. What happens is, the maneuver doesn't get completed
and the airplane ends up with the nose down and going fast. Even after demonstrating
the maneuver and telling student not to do it, the nose isn't brought
back to level after a loop or even more dangerous, the roll is stopped while
still inverted and the nose is coming down! Most people figure out the partial
loop pretty quick. The partial roll leaves no time for hesitation, push
and finish the roll! Even in the Pitts you don't want to start a Split S at cruise
speed.
Just some thoughts having been on both sides of the fence,
Dave
RV-6
The need for (more) speed---->
Traded acro for speed and distance.
From: RV8ter(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: CS props and Acro
A "big time & famous" airshow pilot gave me some advice once when I was
asking about RVs before I committted to buying one. He (OK, so it wasn't Patty)
told me that even with a constant speed prop he didn't consider the RV a good
acro plane because the props used on 320s/360s weren't effective enough in
braking like his IO-540 size is and because Van really emphasised speed in the
design (ie, RV is too clean). Not here to debate that but it does beg the
question does anyone have enough acro time with and without a CS prop in a RV to
say
there's a usable safety margin on the downhill maneuvers using a CS prop?
lucky
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: CS props and Acro & Split S |
Yep, but back to the main question, do you have a CS prop on your RV and have
you compared that to a non-CS equipped RV in acro enough to see a noticeable
difference in the *braking* department?
In a message dated 9/2/2003 9:21:36 PM Eastern Standard Time,
David.vonLinsowe(at)delphi.com writes:
> Subj: RV-List: Re: CS props and Acro &Split S
> Date: 9/2/2003 9:21:36 PM Eastern Standard Time
> From: <A HREF="mailto:David.vonLinsowe(at)delphi.com">David.vonLinsowe(at)delphi.com
> Reply-to: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent from the Internet
>
>
>
> David.vonLinsowe(at)delphi.com>
>
> If you want maximum prop braking (as in speed braking) I would highly
> recommend MT's MTV-12-B/183-59, 3 bladed prop.
>
> Less gyroscopic forces due to much lighter blades than a Hartzell, aircraft
> acceleration from and standstill is noticeably more pronounced and it will
> glide like a Pitts! 1000' agl close in pattern, pull the power at the end of
> the runway and turn. After the 180 degree turn you will land on the numbers.
>
> I don't have the counterweighted version so I didn't get carried away with
> doing a lot of acro with it, no up and down line stuff.
>
> Ex-Pitts driver, relatively new RV pilot observations.
>
> RV's can be good "sport" or "gentleman" aerobatic airplanes. If flown
> within their limitations and you must understand that their limitations are
> narrower than an "aerobatic" airplane.
>
> My Pitts had a 40 mph spread between cruise and red line. My RV has 20 mph.
> You had to work at it to get the Pitts to red line, not just "oops".
> Flying wires, struts, two wings and a large diameter prop all add up to a lot
of
> drag when you need it.
>
> Guys have had Pitts' to 9 g's and nothing broke or bent, I had mine to +7
> -4.5. From the load pictures I've seen from Van's I think that RV's start to
> bend at 6 g's. And that's just the wing, who knows about the tail...
>
> I've done a lot of stuff with the Pitts, I won't even loop a RV without a g
> meter in it... I may be overly cautious, but I've seen enough model
> airplanes come apart in the air to know I don't want to be in one that does.
>
> Spins. The Pitts would come out of any spin (upright or inverted,
> accelerated or flat) with the Beggs emergency spin recovery technique, throttle
> closed, let go of the stick and opposite rudder (opposite rudder will be the
heavy
> rudder, in some spins your first guess at which way you're rotating will be
> wrong). With a RV you're a real test pilot doing any of these. I don't know
> about the RV, but the Pitts would gently go into a real nice inverted flat
> spin at the top of a hammer if you were too far on your back and holding a
> little extra down elevator.
>
> The Pitts locked on and "grooved" (pattern flier term) better than the RV.
> I found it easier to fly the Pitts more accurately than the RV. My wife, a
> non pilot and sometimes autopilot, even commented how much easier it was to
> fly the Pitts straight and level than the RV.
>
> I do miss the hardcore acro the Pitts provided. I don't miss how long it
> took to strap it on, though it still seems a little strange to fly without a
> chute. And I don't miss thinking about what "if" and would my passenger get
> out too...
>
> I really enjoy the fact that you can tailor the RV to be what you want it to
> be (my Pitts was certified, no mods allowed and it could have used some).
> In my case with the RV, I'm scheming on how I'm going to make it faster
> through aerodynamic clean up.
>
> Acro can be the most fun you can have with your clothes on! It can also
> kill you and does kill every year. Treat it with respect that it deserves,
> especially with a RV because it's not as forgiving as a Pitts.
>
> One more observation. I call it "non-completion-itis" probably caused by
> first time acro sensory overload. What happens is, the maneuver doesn't get
> completed and the airplane ends up with the nose down and going fast. Even
> after demonstrating the maneuver and telling student not to do it, the nose
> isn't brought back to level after a loop or even more dangerous, the roll is
> stopped while still inverted and the nose is coming down! Most people figure
out
> the partial loop pretty quick. The partial roll leaves no time for
> hesitation, push and finish the roll! Even in the Pitts you don't want to start
a
> Split S at cruise speed.
>
> Just some thoughts having been on both sides of the fence,
>
> Dave
> RV-6
> The need for (more) speed---->
> Traded acro for speed and distance.
>
> From: RV8ter(at)aol.com
> Subject: RV-List: CS props and Acro
>
>
> A "big time &famous" airshow pilot gave me some advice once when I was
> asking about RVs before I committted to buying one. He (OK, so it wasn't
> Patty)
>
> told me that even with a constant speed prop he didn't consider the RV a
> good
> acro plane because the props used on 320s/360s weren't effective enough in
> braking like his IO-540 size is and because Van really emphasised speed in
> the
>
> design (ie, RV is too clean). Not here to debate that but it does beg the
> question does anyone have enough acro time with and without a CS prop in a
> RV to
> say
> there's a usable safety margin on the downhill maneuvers using a CS prop?
>
> lucky
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Painting a QB |
I used a wax/grease remover which does not affect the wash primer that Van's
uses then epoxy primer over that. A call to Van's confirmed that almost
anything can be used over the wash primer but as someone just suggested I would
not
use an etch primer. Probably because the acid may not even make it to the
metal.
If still possible, take the fuselage to a car wash and blast off all that
gunk.
Bob Trumpfheller
Building a RV7A QB in western Colorado
> There is a cosmolene (sp?)like residue that protected the
> aircraft during the ocean transit. How do you clean it off with out
> removing the primer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Mcmahon <rv6(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Annual R V Fall Clasic fly in Sept 20 |
To those of you that are building and flying R V's, Lebanon Chapter
863 of the EAA is having
our annual fall classic fly-in Sept 20th (SAT)...There will be judging
and award plaques sent out to the winners. We are also having a Fly-mart
and reduced fuel prices..Mike S will be there again this year.
Our location is Lebanon,Tn (M54) about 20 miles east of Nashville,Tn
If anyone is in need of additional info, feel free to call me..
John McMahon ( RV6 near ready to paint) Weeee
615-452-8742
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: CS props and Acro & Split S |
>
snip
>
> Guys have had Pitts' to 9 g's and nothing broke or bent, I had mine to
+7 -4.5. From the load pictures I've seen from Van's I think that RV's
start to bend at 6 g's. And that's just the wing, who knows about the
tail...
>
This is a good post but I do not agree about the 6 g's. RV's start to bend
at far less than 6 g's but do not permanently deform until a far higher
loading than that. My RV has been to 6 g's plus a little and I can testify
there is no permanent deformation. Bending, sure, probably at 1 g! Ever
watched the bending on an ASW-20 sailplane at 1 g, awesome!
I think around 9+ g's, where I have not been, is where some permanent
deformation might occur.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: CS props and Acro & Split S |
In a message dated 09/02/2003 6:42:52 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
RV8ter(at)aol.com writes:
> Yep, but back to the main question, do you have a CS prop on your RV and
> have
> you compared that to a non-CS equipped RV in acro enough to see a noticeable
>
> difference in the *braking* department?
>
The comments on the MTV CS propeller were valid. Great air brake, when you
want it.
Jim Ayers
RV-3 sn N47RV
Flown with Warnke fixed pitch prop, Ivoprop electric in-flight adjustable
prop, and MTV-7-C/L175-112 electric CS 3 blade propeller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
Ken Simmons wrote:
>
>Next question on the pitot. The plans aren't real clear about installing the pitot
line in the wing. It just pretty much says do it. The only thing in the drawing
I found was the actual pitot itself, not the route back to the fuselage.
>
>The question is what to do with the inboard end of the pitot line? I know many
use plastic tubing to the pitot and I still may do that for part of the run to
the instruments. The best solution I've seen is the way Dan Checkoway terminated
his pitot line with a bulkhead fitting on the inboard rib. Any other ideas?
>
>Thanks.
>
>Ken
>
>
Here is how I did mine:
http://members.hopkinsville.net/bhester/FuseAssyPg2.htm I'll go to
plastic inside the fuselage.
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: CS props and Acro & Split S |
>
>
>
>>
>snip
>
>
>>
>> Guys have had Pitts' to 9 g's and nothing broke or bent, I had mine to
>+7 -4.5. From the load pictures I've seen from Van's I think that RV's
>start to bend at 6 g's. And that's just the wing, who knows about the
>tail...
>>
>
>This is a good post but I do not agree about the 6 g's. RV's start to bend
>at far less than 6 g's but do not permanently deform until a far higher
>loading than that. My RV has been to 6 g's plus a little and I can testify
>there is no permanent deformation. Bending, sure, probably at 1 g! Ever
>watched the bending on an ASW-20 sailplane at 1 g, awesome!
>
>I think around 9+ g's, where I have not been, is where some permanent
>deformation might occur.
>
>Larry Pardue
>Carlsbad, NM
>
Van designs to FAR 23 criteria for the structure. FAR 23.305 says:
"Section 23.305: Strength and deformation.
(a) The structure must be able to support limit loads without
detrimental, permanent deformation. At any load up to limit loads,
the deformation may not interfere with safe operation.
(b) The structure must be able to support ultimate loads without
failure for at least three seconds, except local failures or
structural instabilities between limit and ultimate load are
acceptable only if the structure can sustain the required ultimate
load for at least three seconds. However when proof of strength is
shown by dynamic tests simulating actual load conditions, the three
second limit does not apply. "
Limit load (i.e. the maximum load that it is intended the aircraft
see in service) for the RVs is 6g, at Van's recommended aerobatic
weight. Ultimate load is 9g, at Van's recommended aerobatic weight.
So, there should be no permanent deformation at loads up to 6g, at
Van's recommended aerobatic weight. There may be permanent
deformation before you hit 9g.
I read the report that Van published on the RV-8 wing load testing.
It is clear from the report that the wing strength exceeds that
required by FAR 23, but there is no way to know by how much it
exceeds the FAR 23 requirements. So it is possible that there would
be no permanent deformation before 9g, but I wouldn't bet my aircraft
on it.
I suspect quite a few RVers are doing aerobatics at weights that
exceed Van's recommended aerobatic weight, so their limit load would
have to be factored down a bit from 6g.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Pichon" <DeanPichon(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Breather vent |
I vent onto the exhaust and have not had any problems. The belly stays clean and
the installation is simple.
----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Blazey
Subject: Re: RV-List: Breather vent
Plastic is used on many certificated aircraft and is fine.
smoothweasel(at)juno.com wrote:
>
> Does anyone have any advise on the choice of
> engine breather configurations. I am considering one of the following:
> 1 Running a line to the tail
> 2 using a separator tank and then venting at the bottom of the cowl
> 3 venting into the exhaust
>
> I like the idea of venting in the exhaust but won't it still cause a mess
> on the belly or will it be completely burned? The other options could be
> used but seem more complex.
>
> Also when plumbing the pitot tube to the airspeed, is it
> necessary to use AN line or is nylon sufficient?
>
> The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
> Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Jason" <prestige(at)sover.net> |
| Subject: | Sterba prop for sale or trade |
I have a Sterba 70/82 prop. removed from an 0-360 for sale or trade.
Prop is in like new condition and includes all hardware including spinner, extension,
crush plate and bolts. Removed for constant speed installation. Will trade
up or down. I am looking for a KX155 and KI209,
Nav Aid AP. or would accept reasonable offer.
Reply of line prestige(at)sover.net Dick Jason
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: CS props and Acro & Split S |
My new RV-4 has a C/S Hartzell. I have never used the prop to slow down
during acro, in the acro I do, I seldom even move the throttle, I set it and
leave it alone. But in formation, it is WONDERFUL! I come burning in on a
joinup and pull the power to idle. The braking from the prop feels like you
will go thru the windshield. Once your speed matches the lead, you quickly
add power and you are in position.
C/S is a wonderful thing is you can afford it. One caveat, my Warnke wood
prop on the Panther was noticably more "comfortable" in acro. It had less
inertia in hammerheads, and it generally felt like I was putting less stress
on the airframe. The C/S accelerates much faster so I tend to be flying at
higher speeds than with the wood prop.
Everything in aviation is a compromise...
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
Snip
>
> If I am totally off base with my non RV comparison, please let me know as
I
> will have a CS crank and haven't committed to a particular prop.
>
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY
> RV-7 slider/fuselage, Imron black, "Black Magic"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | CS props and Acro & Split S |
I'll echo Doug's comments almost 100%. I have about 530-40 hrs in CS RV's
and maybe 50-60 in FP RV's, with ~40 hrs formation. The CS is great for
sliding into position quickly, burning up "smash". But I generally don't
like reverse loading the engine, only doing it when necessary.
In acro, I do sometimes change throttle settings though maneuvers, but
rarely ever change rpm or use the prop for serious braking. See last
sentence above. One significant advantage of a wooden (FP) prop is the low
intertia. Much easier on the crank than a heavy, metal prop through
pitching or yawing maneuvers. Some of the new props like Whirlwind and MT
offer some advantage here with their lightweight composite designs, a worthy
feature if you can afford it.
The CS prop can offer significant braking as when landing or decending.
Definitely have to plan ahead farther with a FP installation. As for
downhill situations (as in acro), no question it helps, but I don't count on
it/use it.
Bryan Jones -8
Pearland, Texas
>My new RV-4 has a C/S Hartzell. I have never used the prop to slow down
>during acro, in the acro I do, I seldom even move the throttle, I set it
>and
>leave it alone. But in formation, it is WONDERFUL! I come burning in on a
>joinup and pull the power to idle. The braking from the prop feels like you
>will go thru the windshield. Once your speed matches the lead, you quickly
>add power and you are in position.
>
>C/S is a wonderful thing is you can afford it. One caveat, my Warnke wood
>prop on the Panther was noticably more "comfortable" in acro. It had less
>inertia in hammerheads, and it generally felt like I was putting less
>stress
>on the airframe. The C/S accelerates much faster so I tend to be flying at
>higher speeds than with the wood prop.
>
>Everything in aviation is a compromise...
>
>Tailwinds,
>Doug Rozendaal
>
>Snip
> >
> > If I am totally off base with my non RV comparison, please let me know
>as
>I
> > will have a CS crank and haven't committed to a particular prop.
> >
> >
> > Dana Overall
> > Richmond, KY
> > RV-7 slider/fuselage, Imron black, "Black Magic"
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Cracked Powder Coating |
Found two powder coat cracks on the bottom engine mount crossmember of my RV6.
Each about 1 inch inboard from the weld connecting the bottom crossmember to the
gear leg. Each crack was vertical and about 1/2 inch long.
I removed the surrounding powder coat for about a 3/4 inch diameter with paint
stripper. Then an AP friend performed a dye test. No cracks were found on the
engine mount metal.
Has anyone experienced anything similar to this?
I must confess that I had a "slightly hard landing" about three weeks ago.
Yesterday I flew and did about ten touch and go's. Everything OK. But I still don't
feel totally comfortable.
Gabe A Ferrer
RV6 N2GX 47 hours
South Florida
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Bob Olds ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Bob Olds
Subject: How to build cheap strobe/tail wingtip lights
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/Oldsfolks@aol.com.09.03.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Breather vent |
I had considered running a vent line all the way to the rear of the plane. The
fear of water condensing, then freezing in the line (at high altitude or cold
temps) made me decide not to do that.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8A cockpit systems stuff
>
> Does anyone have any advise on the choice of
>engine breather configurations. I am considering one of the following:
>1 Running a line to the tail
>2 using a separator tank and then venting at the bottom of the cowl
>3 venting into the exhaust
>
>I like the idea of venting in the exhaust but won't it still cause a mess
>on the belly or will it be completely burned? The other options could be
>used but seem more complex.
>
> Also when plumbing the pitot tube to the airspeed, is it
>necessary to use AN line or is nylon sufficient?
>
>The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
>Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Breather vent |
I am using a ACS "Homebuilder's Oil Breather/Separator". It is mounted on
the lower left side of the firewall. The vent exit's between the exhaust pipes.
The oil return goes to a catch bottle. After 55hrs I get no oil on the
fuselage bottom and there is less than 1oz in the catch bottle.
Cash Copeland
RV6 Flying again
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cracked Powder Coating |
Keep an eye on it Gabe. That is where my motor mount cracked after an off
airport landing.
Cash Copeland
RV6 Flying again
Found two powder coat cracks on the bottom engine mount crossmember of my
RV6. Each about 1 inch inboard from the weld connecting the bottom crossmember
to
the gear leg. Each crack was vertical and about 1/2 inch long.
I removed the surrounding powder coat for about a 3/4 inch diameter with
paint stripper. Then an AP friend performed a dye test. No cracks were found on
the engine mount metal.
Has anyone experienced anything similar to this?
I must confess that I had a "slightly hard landing" about three weeks ago.
Yesterday I flew and did about ten touch and go's. Everything OK. But I still
don't feel totally comfortable.
Gabe A Ferrer
RV6 N2GX 47 hours
South Florida
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: CS props and Acro & Split S |
| From: | "David.vonLinsowe" <David.vonLinsowe(at)delphi.com> |
Depending on what pitch and diameter you're using on a fixed pitch, you
may see a dramatic difference with a C/S. And going from a 2 blade C/S
to a 3 blade C/S you'll see another significant difference.
But if you compare the Whirl Wind C200 aerobatic 2 blade with their
cruising 3 blade the 2 blade may win out for braking. Larger diameter
and wider blades.
I have had three different C/S props on my RV. And I can definitely say
the 3 blade C/S will brake better than a 2 blade C/S of the same
diameter. I can also definitely say that a C/S 2 blade will brake
better than the standard fix pitch the RV guys are running.
The fixed pitch acro guys are running climb props. Low pitch and bigger
diameter. I would guess you would lose 20-30 mph with one of these
props on a RV. They also have a tendency to over rev their engines too.
A little more HP and airspeed for energy on up lines.
Dave
From: RV8ter(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: CS props and Acro & Split S
Yep, but back to the main question, do you have a CS prop on your RV and
have
you compared that to a non-CS equipped RV in acro enough to see a
noticeable
difference in the *braking* department?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Breather vent |
I had a line to the tail in my Cassutt. Never had to grease the tailwheel.
I just put a cut the pipe and then crushed it to make a "whistle" in the
line on the firewall so if the tube blocks it would just make a mess on the
belly. Never did. I have a Christen system now and it is pretty clean on
the belly. (but I don't do much negative)
Tailwinds
Doug Rozendaal
>
> I had considered running a vent line all the way to the rear of the plane.
The fear of water condensing, then freezing in the line (at high altitude or
cold temps) made me decide not to do that.
> Charlie Kuss
________________________________________________________________________________
rv-list(at)matronics.com, GA-EFIS(at)yahoogroups.com
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Updated Installation Guide for the Dynon D-10 EFIS |
Dynon just updated the Installation Guide for the D-10 EFIS. The new
manual cleans up some discrepancies between the wiring diagram and
the pin-out table. They also explain the difference between Keep
Alive power and Backup power. I sent then an e-mail asking questions
in those areas two days ago, and today provided very good answers and
updated the manual. Great service.
My D-10 arrived last week, and I've got it installed in the panel and
am starting to ponder where I will put the external compass module.
All in all I am quite impressed with the unit so far. I'm really
looking forward to getting it flying.
The new Installation Guide is at:
http://www.dynonavionics.com/docs/efis-d10documentation.html
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
>
>Hummm,
>
>Well I'm not really sure what you call it, but when Flight 007, a 747 over
>Japan lost its vertical stab after a rear pressure bulkhead blowout, the
>engineers said it spent 4 hours doing "dutch rolls" (their term) until it
>hit a mountain.
>
>The yaw would incite an opposite roll which would incite a reverse in yaw
>which would incite a reverse in roll, but the plane looked like it was doing
>steep chandelles back and forth. There's a two hour video on this
>investigation that is a great show for an aviation type gathering.
>
>But in any event the nose can't stay fixed else there would be no yaw and no
>resulting roll and we would then have to call it a "Dutch NOTRoll".
>
>To clarify my experience, given the possible incongruity in terminology, the
>steep chandelles back and forth that are sorta kinda like a Dutch Roll,
>maybe, is what I was doing, knife edge to knife edge when I let it get a
>little too fast on the down swing and found myself wondering when the wings
>were going to come off. ;{)
Wheeler,
From the pure technical perspective, if the aircraft was doing the
manoeuvre all by itself, that would be a Dutch roll. The yawing
causes rolling moments as you described. If an aircraft were to do
such a manoeuvre because the pilot was manually rolling it, I
wouldn't call it a Dutch roll.
I've got a description of that accident sitting on the desk right
now. The aircraft lost all four hydraulic systems, so the flight
controls were completely useless. The loss of the vertical tail gave
August 21, 2003 - September 03, 2003
RV-Archive.digest.vol-oe