RV-Archive.digest.vol-of
September 03, 2003 - September 15, 2003
it a very severe dutch roll of about 50 degrees of bank each way,
with a period of only 12 seconds, that is it only took 12 seconds to
go from 50 deg left wing down, to 50 deg right wing down, and back to
50 deg left wing down. In pitch, it was in a phugoid at the same
time with pitch attitudes varying from 15 deg up to 5 deg down, with
a period of about 90 seconds. The airspeed was varying by over 100
kt at times, and the altitude by up to 5,000 ft. All this time the
crew was trying to use changes of engine thrust to establish some
sort of control. It must have been pandemonium in the cabin.
Keep the wings firmly attached.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smoothweasel(at)juno.com |
Hey thanx for all your inputs.
Joel Graber
-4 finishing
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com> |
Can someone give me some example of how to properly call an "initial" and a "360
Overhead"?
Thanks!
Bill VonDane
RV-8A
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy decks...slider |
Hi Jeff;
My experience with a -6A slider was to leave the canopy decks unriveted
until fairly late in the game - certainly until after the windscreen bow was
fitted. There is some interesting match drilling needed to get the bolt
holes drilled that fasten the bow to the longerons (that little joggled
spacer has to fit in too) that would be quite hard to do if the canopy decks
were riveted on too soon.
Having said this, when I started work on the canopy frame and plexi, it
seemed like a good idea to have the canopy decks securely in place when
drilling the canopy rails to the decks, etc. I recall putting in perhaps
five rivets a side for this reason and then later drilling them out to
improve access to the instrument panel area. (I wanted to keep the IF-6110s
removable as long as possible and so could not rivet the IF-6113s -
eventually I riveted the join first and then put them both on at the same
time).
There are unfortunately no particularly good or satisfying ways to run
wiring from the panel area back past the cockpit. Trimming some good sized
pieces off the tops of the IF-604 bulkhead is a start but you also have to
deal with the IF-604E and IF-604F channel pieces too. Then there are the
canopy bow bolts that stick down there too so it no fun running a wire
bundle through the area. Same thing really at the IF-605 when you have to
get around that big piece of angle that reinforces the top corner. Running a
piece of 1/2 PVC conduit just under the IF-620 armrest might be a reasonable
compromise.
I ran my wing wiring in through the fuse side aft of the spar and under the
seat. Went forward through the spar web 2"-3" out from the centre-line and
then out under the gear leg socket, then forward and then up the IF-602 to
reach the panel area. A nuisance but I could see no practical way to run
wiring from the wing up the inside of the IF-604 to reach the panel.
You have the right idea though - have a wiring route planned and holes
drilled, etc. before you start riveting things together.
Jim Oke
Winnipeg, Man
RV-6A C-GKGZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: Canopy decks...slider
>
> Greetings Listers:
>
> Those of you who have done a slider on a 6 or 7....The Justice
instructions indicate that the canopy decks F-6110 and F-6113 should not be
riveted on until the finish kit construction. I am ready to start fitting
my roll-bar to the fuselage and was wondering if anyone had riveted them on
regardless of what the Justice instructions say. I assume his concern was
routing wires to the aft of the fuselage as well as running wires up to the
panel from the wings. Seems to me I can accomplish those things with these
decks riveted in.
>
> Am I missing something here?
>
> Thanks in advance
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Jeff Orear
> RV6A
> finish kit
> Peshtigo, WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rv6tc" <rv6tc(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Radio Calls... |
Bill,
"Experimental xxx, Initial." You can include a mileage, as in "Experimental
xxx, 2 mi Initial." In the Air Force, the "standard" initial was 3 - 5
miles. If you are at a military, or a joint use field (ABQ, for example)
realize that the overhead pattern altitude is usually published and is 500
feet above the rectangular altitude (sometimes 1,000' above). By the way,
most controllers that I've ever dealt with are familiar with an Overhead.
And none of the AF guys I know add the "360" to the title. In fact, the
other day, the pattern was a little crazy at Centennial (KAPA) and I
requested to break out of the 35 pattern and just report Initial for 28.
Worked like a charm. If the direction of the break is not published, the
controller may ask which way you want to break. Also (AF, again) you
typically break from the threshold to the 3,000' mark. Midfield or
departure end breaks are not "standard" but can either be requested by you
or the controller for spacing.
Hope that helps.
Keith Hughes
Parker, CO
T-38 IP, Capt, USAF emeritus
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com>
Subject: RV-List: Radio Calls...
>
> Can someone give me some example of how to properly call an "initial" and
a "360 Overhead"?
>
> Thanks!
>
>
> Bill VonDane
> RV-8A
> www.vondane.com
> www.creativair.com
> www.epanelbuilder.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Radio Calls... |
Bill,
Check out
http://www1.faa.gov/atpubs/AIM/Chap5/aim0504.html#5-4-24
It has some info on overheads or your copy of the AIM.
Feel free to ask me direct questions.
Tom Gummo
t.gummo(at)verizon.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com>
Subject: RV-List: Radio Calls...
>
> Can someone give me some example of how to properly call an "initial" and
a "360 Overhead"?
>
> Thanks!
>
>
> Bill VonDane
> RV-8A
> www.vondane.com
> www.creativair.com
> www.epanelbuilder.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson(at)consolidated.net> |
From the FBI freedom of information report. Flight 007 was shot down by Soviet
pilot Lt. Col. Osipovich on Sept 1, 1983.
It alledgedly spent about 10 minutes until it went into the Sea of Japan at the
speed of sound.
The fuselage was not found on a mountain. It has never been found.
Dutch Rolls..... Hmmmmm
..........................
Phil, building RV-6, worked on fuel tanks tonight, messy..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gilalex(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Radio Calls... |
This little phrase from the AIM link below...
"Overhead maneuver patterns are developed at airports where aircraft have
an operational need to conduct the maneuver. "
Says that you should not use this at an uncontrolled field unless you
specifically know that the operational need exists and a documented
procedure also exists.
We had one person do these maneuvers at our private airpark, and it caused
great confusion to anyone else in the pattern -- especially since she
would break to the left or right depending on whim.... really confusing
others in the pattern, especially with a slow biplane. At a pilot's
meeting, we could find no "operational need", so the practise has been
stopped....
However, it a tower is controlling it, go for it.....
gil A
>
>Bill,
>
>Check out
>
>http://www1.faa.gov/atpubs/AIM/Chap5/aim0504.html#5-4-24
>
>It has some info on overheads or your copy of the AIM.
>
>Feel free to ask me direct questions.
>
>Tom Gummo
>t.gummo(at)verizon.net
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com>
>To: ;
>Subject: RV-List: Radio Calls...
>
>
> >
> > Can someone give me some example of how to properly call an "initial" and
>a "360 Overhead"?
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> >
> > Bill VonDane
> > RV-8A
> > www.vondane.com
> > www.creativair.com
> > www.epanelbuilder.com
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
>Club"
>
>From the FBI freedom of information report. Flight 007 was shot down by Soviet
>pilot Lt. Col. Osipovich on Sept 1, 1983.
>
>It alledgedly spent about 10 minutes until it went into the Sea of
>Japan at the
>speed of sound.
>
>The fuselage was not found on a mountain. It has never been found.
>
>Dutch Rolls..... Hmmmmm
The accident that Wheeler described was almost certainly Japan
Airlines Flight 123. The rear pressure bulkhead failed at a spot
where a repair had been made. The cabin air escaping from the large
hole in the pressure bulkhead effectively inflated the vertical tail
and blew it off, severing lines from all four hydraulic systems. The
aircraft flew around in a severe Dutch roll oscillation with no
flight controls for about 32 minutes, eventually crashing into the
side of Mt. Osutaka.
There is an excellent account of this accident in Air Disaster, Vol.
2, by MacArthur Job.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Overhead Approaches was:Radio Calls... |
There are lots of good reasons for using and practicing Overhead approaches.
Certainly those doing overheads need to be considerate of those using square
patterns.
An Overhead approach is a great tool to use and to practice because it is
the best way to accomplish a deadstick landing. Glide over the point of
intended landing at a known altitude, do a decending 360 and land.
Also it is the best way to break up formations and get a group of airplanes
on the ground in a short period of time.
In a blind airplane like a Stearman or a WWII fighter it is the only way you
can see where you are going or what is happening on the runway you are
landing on. A square pattern in a Mustang at slow speed in traffic is
dangerous. Imagine blindly driving up the downwind at 175 mph? No thanks.
NOTHING you can do will better prepare you for an engine out landing than
regular practice of 360 overheads at idle power.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mstewart(at)qa.butler.com |
| Subject: | Overhead Approaches was:Radio Calls... |
autolearn=ham version=2.53
Virtually all of my last 800 hours of landings have been overheads. I call
them out "Tower good afternoon, RV N686MS, 6m SE, inbound for the initial
(optional direction for the break here), Papa (information)"
Or, for even more fun if the pattern is quiet, or if your tower guys are
known to clear the pattern for your fun activities:
"Tower good-afternoon, RV N686MS, 6m SE, inbound, low approach, carrier
break, (optional direction for the break here), Papa (information)"
I got this last one approved Monday landing in class B Baltimore. With a 737
landing parallel. That pilot made a comment about me having "too much fun!"
I could hardly argue.
I always do initials when I can for:
1. Fun factor
2. Safety. As Doug stated. You can not overemphasize this. There are
countless reasons why this is the safest way to land
3. Fun Factor
4. The on-lookers really do enjoy watching the 3g pitchup, power drop, rip
around landing of the low approach carrier break landings.
5. Did I mention the fun factor?
I can't think of any tower that did not know what I was talking about.
Mike Stewart
-----Original Message-----
From: Doug Rozendaal [mailto:dougr(at)petroblend.com]
Subject: RV-List: Overhead Approaches was:Radio Calls...
There are lots of good reasons for using and practicing Overhead approaches.
Certainly those doing overheads need to be considerate of those using square
patterns.
An Overhead approach is a great tool to use and to practice because it is
the best way to accomplish a deadstick landing. Glide over the point of
intended landing at a known altitude, do a decending 360 and land.
Also it is the best way to break up formations and get a group of airplanes
on the ground in a short period of time.
In a blind airplane like a Stearman or a WWII fighter it is the only way you
can see where you are going or what is happening on the runway you are
landing on. A square pattern in a Mustang at slow speed in traffic is
dangerous. Imagine blindly driving up the downwind at 175 mph? No thanks.
NOTHING you can do will better prepare you for an engine out landing than
regular practice of 360 overheads at idle power.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tinted canopies. |
I believe the tinted canopy you saw at OSH this year is made by "Todd's
Canopy". Glenn in Arizona, -9A wings ordered.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Tinted canopies.
>
> I don't some searching around in the archives and have communicated off
list
> with some listers concerning a darker canopy than the
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Overhead Approaches was:Radio Calls... |
Thanks for all the input on this! I fully intend to master this procedure
for exactly the reasons Doug outlined below... I often fly formation with
other RV, and if I ever have to land dead stick this is how I would
accomplish it...
Regarding the message:
"We had one person do these maneuvers at our private airpark, and it caused
great confusion to anyone else in the pattern -- especially since she
would break to the left or right depending on whim.... really confusing
others in the pattern, especially with a slow biplane. At a pilot's
meeting, we could find no "operational need", so the practice has been
stopped...."
I believe that if the overhead is done properly, NO ONE else in the patter
will be affected by you at all.....and I HATE to hear when someone decides
that someone else doesn't "NEED" to do something and either tries to
succeeds in stopping them...
None of us NEED to fly anyway, right?
no offence, just my opinion...
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com>
Subject: RV-List: Overhead Approaches was:Radio Calls...
There are lots of good reasons for using and practicing Overhead approaches.
Certainly those doing overheads need to be considerate of those using square
patterns.
An Overhead approach is a great tool to use and to practice because it is
the best way to accomplish a deadstick landing. Glide over the point of
intended landing at a known altitude, do a decending 360 and land.
Also it is the best way to break up formations and get a group of airplanes
on the ground in a short period of time.
In a blind airplane like a Stearman or a WWII fighter it is the only way you
can see where you are going or what is happening on the runway you are
landing on. A square pattern in a Mustang at slow speed in traffic is
dangerous. Imagine blindly driving up the downwind at 175 mph? No thanks.
NOTHING you can do will better prepare you for an engine out landing than
regular practice of 360 overheads at idle power.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | P M Condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | Great Paint and painting website |
http://www.autobodystore.com/cgi-bin/config.pl?index
Try this URL. You can purchase painting related goodies and get
advice.The daily chat section from a paint web site(see above URL) is
very much like Matts (Matronics) there is a search capability so all you
painting,primer and paint related questions can be researched.
I also purchased my hobbyair breathing system, DA special finish paint
sander and Devilbiss gravity spray gun from them.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | P M Condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Radio Calls... |
There is a major safety issue here. When using localized or specialized
jargon, or terminology that only make sense to a select few then the
folks not in on the secret language or jargon are unaware of the
event(s) taking place around them. I have been at airports where
military wantabees or others used this specialized jargon only to cause
major problems and confusion in the pattern. I guess that they felt cool
using the jargon, the other pilots in the pattern felt otherwise.....
In reply to:
Bill,
"Experimental xxx, Initial." You can include a mileage, as in
"Experimental
xxx, 2 mi Initial." In the Air Force, the "standard" initial was 3 - 5
miles. If you are at a military, or a joint use field (ABQ, for
example)
realize that the overhead pattern altitude is usually published and is
500
feet above the rectangular altitude (sometimes 1,000' above). By the
way,
most controllers that I've ever dealt with are familiar with an
Overhead.
And none of the AF guys I know add the "360" to the title. In fact, the
other day, the pattern was a little crazy at Centennial (KAPA) and I
requested to break out of the 35 pattern and just report Initial for 28.
Worked like a charm. If the direction of the break is not published,
the
controller may ask which way you want to break. Also (AF, again) you
typically break from the threshold to the 3,000' mark. Midfield or
departure end breaks are not "standard" but can either be requested by
you
or the controller for spacing.
Hope that helps.
Keith Hughes
Parker, CO
T-38 IP, Capt, USAF emeritus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
Gil,
Not to be too picky but where does it say this? (See >>>> below) I just read
it and did not get " ... you should not ...". Maybe I missed something.
Want to know as we do it all the time at our uncontrolled field and have
done it at the nearby Towered airport with no problems.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Gil Alexander
> Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2003 2:31 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Radio Calls...
>
>
> This little phrase from the AIM link below...
>
> "Overhead maneuver patterns are developed at airports where aircraft have
> an operational need to conduct the maneuver. "
>
>>>>>>>>>>> Says that you should not use this at an uncontrolled field
unless you
> specifically know that the operational need exists and a documented
> procedure also exists.
>
> We had one person do these maneuvers at our private airpark, and
> it caused
> great confusion to anyone else in the pattern -- especially since she
> would break to the left or right depending on whim.... really confusing
> others in the pattern, especially with a slow biplane. At a pilot's
> meeting, we could find no "operational need", so the practise has been
> stopped....
>
> However, it a tower is controlling it, go for it.....
>
> gil A
>
>
> >
> >Bill,
> >
> >Check out
> >
> >http://www1.faa.gov/atpubs/AIM/Chap5/aim0504.html#5-4-24
> >
> >It has some info on overheads or your copy of the AIM.
> >
> >Feel free to ask me direct questions.
> >
> >Tom Gummo
> >t.gummo(at)verizon.net
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com>
> >To: ;
> >Subject: RV-List: Radio Calls...
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Can someone give me some example of how to properly call an
> "initial" and
> >a "360 Overhead"?
> > >
> > > Thanks!
> > >
> > >
> > > Bill VonDane
> > > RV-8A
> > > www.vondane.com
> > > www.creativair.com
> > > www.epanelbuilder.com
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | gasoline seasonal blending |
Anyone know when the refineries begin to switch over to winter gasoline
blends (with allegedly higher vapor pressure for easier starts)? I try to buy
all
the high-test I'm going to need for the upcoming year during the summer months
to avoid the possible vapor lock issues with winter blend mogas, but this
year in particular there is a financial incentive to wait until longer after
Labor Day for the inevitable price drop. Right now, high test is selling for
nearly what some FBO's discount their 100LL down to. I'd like to snag some better
prices for the '03-'04 fuel supply without buying any high vapor pressure
stuff, but not sure how late in the year I can still make the purchase.
Any ideas, besides the obvious one of calling a gasoline refinery and hoping
they will talk to me about putting their automotive product into my airplane?
Thanks.
-Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Radio Calls... |
Done properly with consideration and decent communication, there's no more
safety issue with overhead approaches than with any other approved maneuver.
Overhead approach is in the AIM and the calls aren't jargon - they're
proper. Else the tower folks might not participate quite so readily.
One thing that my buddies and I have found helpful if the pattern has a
couple of others flying is to make a little more descriptive calls, keeping
those in mind who might be ignorant of the maneuver. "123AB, flight of
four, 2 mile initial (straight in approach to) 17, overhead (break left turn
to midfield downwind, full stop)." This gets the point across. If we don't
think we can mix safely, we stay outside the pattern until we get spacing
from those in a "convenional" pattern, or we go elsewhere.
Blasting into the pattern with minimal calls and not spacing properly with
the "rectangular" pattern guys is unsafe. But in my 16 years flying, I've
yet to be cut off or offended by someone doing an overhead. Been cut off by
boneheads making non standard and even standard entries to rectangular
patterns plenty though.
We get no problems from the local Class D airport. They have no preference
as best I can tell, never missing a beat when we call as a flight requesting
the overhead.
Bottom line - consideration and looking for traffic are required with all
approaches.
Bryan Jones -8
Pearland, Texas
>There is a major safety issue here. When using localized or specialized
>jargon, or terminology that only make sense to a select few then the
>folks not in on the secret language or jargon are unaware of the
>event(s) taking place around them. I have been at airports where
>military wantabees or others used this specialized jargon only to cause
>major problems and confusion in the pattern. I guess that they felt cool
>using the jargon, the other pilots in the pattern felt otherwise.....
Fast, faster, fastest: Upgrade to Cable or DSL today!
https://broadband.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Radio Calls... |
I like flying the overhead because I can see all the traffic in the
pattern and enter with enough airspeed/altitude to make the runway
incase of engine failure.
I report 5 out and request the overhead. 99% of the time the tower
clears me for that and asks me to report a 1 mile initial, sometimes
restricted to an altitude 500' over the pattern altitude. After
reporting, he'll fit me in the pattern by having me break at some
point along the runway. If theres other traffic, I'll square it off
to fit into the pattern. If nobody is in the pattern, I'll do the
short 360.
I hate straight in's. I feel really vulnerable to an engine failure.
I end up 3 out, slow behind a 172 or something. If the motor coughs,
I'm dead.
The tower guys are really good to us RV's. I remember them once
saying over the freq that "We like you guys....you fly tight
patterns!" I don't know how many times I've be on initial, and
they'll tell the down wind traffic to extend and clear me #1. It
doesn't get any better than that.
P M Condon wrote:
>There is a major safety issue here. When using localized or specialized
>jargon, or terminology that only make sense to a select few then the
>folks not in on the secret language or jargon are unaware of the
event(s) taking place around them.
If a pilot doesn't understand the phraseology he hears in the
pattern, look it up in the aim, call the tower, or ask the pilot over
the freq. It's all part of the learning process.
Laird RV-6
SoCal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nebr RV-8" <nebrrv8(at)earthlink.net> |
The RV-8 is in the final stages. I am now running the wiring. If I use
the airframe for grounding my lights, fuel pump, etc. will I have a
noise problem? I am using Van's wiring kit for a starting point.
thanks
Jim Muegge
RV-8 wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Radio Calls, pattern ops, training |
>Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2003 10:40:29 -0700
>
>
>I like flying the overhead because I can see all the traffic in the
>pattern and enter with enough airspeed/altitude to make the runway
>incase of engine failure.
>
>I report 5 out and request the overhead. 99% of the time the tower
>clears me for that and asks me to report a 1 mile initial, sometimes
>restricted to an altitude 500' over the pattern altitude. After
>reporting, he'll fit me in the pattern by having me break at some
>point along the runway. If theres other traffic, I'll square it off
>to fit into the pattern. If nobody is in the pattern, I'll do the
>short 360.
>
>I hate straight in's. I feel really vulnerable to an engine failure.
>I end up 3 out, slow behind a 172 or something. If the motor coughs,
>I'm dead.
>
>The tower guys are really good to us RV's. I remember them once
>saying over the freq that "We like you guys....you fly tight
>patterns!" I don't know how many times I've be on initial, and
>they'll tell the down wind traffic to extend and clear me #1. It
>doesn't get any better than that.
>
This all brings to mind my two main concerns with modern pilot training: the
lack of spin training (not just spin awareness...but SPINS!!!) and the
teaching of bomber sized rectangular patterns for light single engine
aircraft. I've found myself in the midst of ridiculously large patterns
many times at my home base, with spam strung out all over the place. Long,
slow and low finals tighten up my nether regions in a big way. I learned to
fly via the Air Force Aero club, which always emphasized the need for
staying tight to the runway, being prepared for an engine out at any time,
then reduce power as needed. In this way, an engine failure is no big deal.
This training no doubt helped me greatly when my engine sputtered and
wheezed a few years ago in the RV. My gliding, circling descent to a
remarkably nice landing proved that overhead approaches WORK.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
FOURTH annual due this month!
http://www.msnmessenger-download.com/tracking/reach_emoticon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
>
>The RV-8 is in the final stages. I am now running the wiring. If I use
>the airframe for grounding my lights, fuel pump, etc. will I have a
>noise problem? I am using Van's wiring kit for a starting point.
>
>thanks
>
>Jim Muegge
>RV-8 wiring
It's impossible to say positively yes or no. Best bet is to home run every
circuit to a common ground bus as near to the battery as practical.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Compare Cable, DSL or Satellite plans: As low as $29.95.
https://broadband.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Birkelbach" <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
| Subject: | Overhead pattern ( was: Radio Calls...) |
>
> You bring up an excellent point. I often hear towers, or myself,
explaining
> exactly what is about to happen to those who ask. It is a learning
> experience for all when they are unsure, and it is explained. The
"initial"
> procedure is an FAA recognized maneuver, and those that don't know what it
> is, should ask. As always, any pilot who is not exactly sure what's going
on
> around them, especially in a pattern, should key up and ask immediately.
I have spent most of my flying carreer building an RV-7 and my AIM is at
home so I'll 'key up' and ask. What is an overhead, and why would one use
it? I think I have the general idea but don't know the details, and I want
to be sure.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Canopy
http://www.myrv7.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clayton Henderson" <gsuit(at)eonet.net> |
Bill,
I've heard all kinds of initial and overhead calls...and the controllers
seem to get the picture as long as you say something close. But, this
is how we were taught to do it in the late 90's when I was in flight
school in Kingsville, TX, and how most fleet Marine and Navy squadrons
do it.
"Tower, Devil 255 flight of two, initial, for the break" or "...for the
carrier" meaning 600' AGL Aircraft Carrier pattern. The airforce calls
it the overhead, I believe.
The tower typically responds, "Roger 255, number 1 for the carrier,
report the numbers." Meaning you're first in line to land, report back
to the tower when you arrive over the runway numbers at the approach
end.
Then, as the approach end numbers slide under the nose you say, "255,
numbers."...look over at your dash two all sucked in nice and tight,
give him the 'kiss-off' signal, and freakin' yank that sucker
around!!...all the while chopping throttle and dropping flaps (at the
appropriate speeds of course), and speed breaks, and the barn door, and
anything else you think might get you slowed down to gear speed by the
180 position. :) You started this thing at around 450kts!!!
Honestly, it's not as violent a maneuver as I'm making it sound. But
there is the unwritten rule of all fighter pilots. 'You might look like
hell anywhere else, but you better look good at the break..."
Anyway, if this doesn't paint the picture, I probably can go dig up my
old flight school manuals and give it to you verbatim.
Clayton Henderson
RV-7 Fuselage
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill VonDane
Subject: RV-List: Radio Calls...
Can someone give me some example of how to properly call an "initial"
and a "360 Overhead"?
Thanks!
Bill VonDane
RV-8A
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Canopy decks...slider |
> > Greetings Listers:
> >
> > Those of you who have done a slider on a 6 or 7....The Justice
> instructions indicate that the canopy decks F-6110 and F-6113
> should not be riveted on until the finish kit construction.
> I am ready to start fitting my roll-bar to the fuselage and
> was wondering if anyone had riveted them on regardless of
> what the Justice instructions say. I assume his concern was
> routing wires to the aft of the fuselage as well as running
> wires up to the panel from the wings. Seems to me I can
> accomplish those things with these decks riveted in.
> >
> > Am I missing something here?
The single best advice I ever got on building these planes is to never
rivet anything until you cannot proceed without doing so. If you can
fit the rollover bar with the decks clecoed on, then do so. You might
run wires, fuel tank vents, etc. in this example.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 368 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gilbert Alexander <gilalex(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Radio Calls... |
James ... it's in the section of the AIM talking about IFR procedures at control
tower airports. Check out the whole AIM section, and see what it covers.
The "operational need" is an exception.... and as an exception it needs to be documented.
Our airpark uses the AIM (the best general descriptive document available)as
a baseline, and developed our traffic patterns from it.
The particular biplane mentioned did not help matters by cutting in front of planes
already in the standard rectangular pattern, and then "dropping down" from
pattern height over mid-field in a overhead pattern to land first. To the people
in the pattern, this was extremely confusing and a safety hazard.
Our Aviation Committee decided that the AIM was the baseline and we did not have
an operational need - no formation flying at our field. Other non-controlled
fields that have formation flying at them have developed, and published, overhead
patterns.
Towered airports are no problem as long as the tower agrees.
At non-towered, are you interupting the flow of planes that are following the FAA
recommended procedures in the AIM? Does this become a safety/liability hazard.
(We actually own our strip)
gil A
-------Original Message-------
From: "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Radio Calls...
>
Gil,
Not to be too picky but where does it say this? (See >>>> below) I just
read
it and did not get " ... you should not ...". Maybe I missed something.
Want to know as we do it all the time at our uncontrolled field and have
done it at the nearby Towered airport with no problems.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Gil Alexander
> Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2003 2:31 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Radio Calls...
>
>
> This little phrase from the AIM link below...
>
> "Overhead maneuver patterns are developed at airports where aircraft
have
> an operational need to conduct the maneuver. "
>
>>>>>>>>>>> Says that you should not use this at an uncontrolled field
unless you
> specifically know that the operational need exists and a documented
> procedure also exists.
>
> We had one person do these maneuvers at our private airpark, and
> it caused
> great confusion to anyone else in the pattern -- especially since she
> would break to the left or right depending on whim.... really confusing
> others in the pattern, especially with a slow biplane. At a pilot's
> meeting, we could find no "operational need", so the practise has been
> stopped....
>
> However, it a tower is controlling it, go for it.....
>
> gil A
>
>
> >
> >Bill,
> >
> >Check out
> >
> >http://www1.faa.gov/atpubs/AIM/Chap5/aim0504.html#5-4-24
> >
> >It has some info on overheads or your copy of the AIM.
> >
> >Feel free to ask me direct questions.
> >
> >Tom Gummo
> >t.gummo(at)verizon.net
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com>
> >To: ;
> >Subject: RV-List: Radio Calls...
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Can someone give me some example of how to properly call an
> "initial" and
> >a "360 Overhead"?
> > >
> > > Thanks!
> > >
> > >
> > > Bill VonDane
> > > RV-8A
> > > www.vondane.com
> > > www.creativair.com
> > > www.epanelbuilder.com
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
If you do a really good job sheilding your wires (I prefer solder sleeves to
the pigtail method) you shouldn't have a problem. Commo headset wires
should have an open ground at one end, and as long as the shield is grounded
to the intercom or similar unit, it won't have a chance to pick up any
noise. I grounded my aeroflash strobes at the wingtip (two power supplies)
and ran the bundle with the wires going to my headset jacks. No problems.
Shielding is the key. As Brian said, I would ground most everything you can
at a single source (Bob Knuckoll's grounding blocks are great). But things
that aren't feasible shouldn't hurt.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Nebr RV-8" <nebrrv8(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Grounding
>
> The RV-8 is in the final stages. I am now running the wiring. If I use
> the airframe for grounding my lights, fuel pump, etc. will I have a
> noise problem? I am using Van's wiring kit for a starting point.
>
> thanks
>
> Jim Muegge
> RV-8 wiring
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Dynon remote Mag sensor installed! |
Dynon update.
I recieved my mag sensor a couple weeks ago and finally last week I built a
wiring harness. I was soldered it up but did not have the Mag sensor
installed. I turned on the EFIS and the screen turned blue and nothing! Oh
S--- I thought I screwed up my wiring. I double checked everything and all
was well. I could not turn the unit off. Only a blue screen. I took out
the internal battery and thought maybe I could get a reboot. No luck, blue
screen.
I called Doug M. at Dynon and he said I probably EFDed the unit and to send
it back. I overnighted it Fri and got it back today. with Labor day, they
turned it in one day. More great service!!! I got it back without a
bill.... maybe one is coming???
Doug said the protection on the Mag sensor circuit is pretty low so you have
to be very careful taking static precautions. I told him I knew all about
condom precautions, but I did not know squat about computers. He said,
"that was a Dynamic activity and this is static." Becareful and UNPLUG YOUR
Dynon EFIS and Mag Sensor if you are working on the wiring!!!!
I mounted my Mag sensor on the shelf in the baggage of my -4. I did not
have a smart level so I got it as close as I could with a spirit level. I
took a cord off of an old mouse and wired that in for my serial port cable.
Think before you mount the sensor. I mounted the mag sensor over a screw
that holds the baggage bulkhead in so I will move it before I calibrate it.
I hooked it all up and it worked great! Without calibration the compass is
off no more than 7 degrees on any of the 4 cardinal headings. Dead on West
and North, about 5 off South and 7 off East.
The biggest problem so far is laptops. I don't have one so I borrowed one.
It did not have a serial port. USB only. So I borrowed another, I checked to
make absolutely sure it had a serial port! it did, I got to the hanger, got
all set up and went to plug in my floppy disc, No disc drive!! CD only!!!!
I will find a laptop! or a long cord for my desktop if I have too!
Anyway I continue to be happy with the Dynon, the heading mode seems to lag
just a bit. When turning to a heading it seems I might want to roll out just
a bit early... but only one quick flight so far. Hopefully I can find a
laptop, get it calibrated and then go try some approaches.
What a machine!!!!
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Tuned Exhaust for O-360? |
I know most of us are using Vetterman exhaust, but I was wondering if there
is a tuned exhaust system available to fit in an RV-7 with an O-360?
Any ideas? Any word on performance? Price?
Thanks for any help!
-Mike Kraus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson(at)consolidated.net> |
| Subject: | Re: flea market supplier?? |
Yes that is them, I remember the leather too ...
Yes real nice people with nice neat lay out of his stuff....
Thanks Gert and all who responded...
Phil, Finishing second tank this week and flying in December.. RV-6
Gert wrote:
>
> Them are the nice people with the cheap wemac vents....
>
> B&B Aircraft supplies
> P.O. box 37
> 202 S. Center
> Gardner, KS 66030
>
> Dan & E.J. brown
>
> fax 913-884-6533
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Radio Calls... |
| From: | sipherrv(at)juno.com |
As for the USAF side of things.
1. Normally you set your self and formation lined up with the landing
runway, usually 1-3nm from the approach end of the runway at pattern
altitude.
The typical radio call is: "Viper 11 flight initial" or "Viper 11 flight
of 4 initial" or "Viper 11 flight 3 mile initial" Tower will normally
follow with "Roger Viper 11, report base". Variations 2 and 3 above are
technique and useful when trying to give the tower additional
information.
2. Prior to or upon reaching the approach end of the runway, lead gives
the pitchout signal (spinning index finger in a circular motion) and upon
a headnod from #2, he pitches out (the USAF doesn't use the kiss-off
signal). Lead will normally then pitch out over the numbers or as
directed by tower. The pitch out is Usually a 45-80degree bank turn
using 2-max alowable G with the throttle in idle to bleed down airspeed
to final turn airspeed. (the more G, the more fun it is, plus the
tighter the patters). Number two will wait the briefed time delay and
follow (usually 5 seconds).
3. Lead will rollout, continue to slow and configure (gear and flaps).
Wingman line up directly behind lead (left/right and up/down) and follow
with 3 and 4 matching the spacing and timing of #2.
4. Upon reaching a position abeam the point on final you desire to
roll-out of the final turn (typically 1/4 to 1nm), you start a decending
turn and make the following radio call:
The typical radio call is "Viper 11 base gear-down fullstop" or "Viper 11
base gear-down touch-n-go" Some people also add right or left to the
base call. #2, #3, and #4 will repeat this when they reach the base
position.
5. The final turn is flown in a constant decent and constant turn to
roll out on final to allow you to stabilize and correct for glidepath and
crosswind. (USAF requires fighters and trainers to roll out at 1nm and
300ft for a 3deg glide path).
This is a quick description of the USAF way. There are differences
between the USAF and USN way of flying the overhead pattern. Having been
an instructor in the USAF AT-38 and F-16s and the Navy T-34C at Whiting
NAS, I have instructed both ways. Overall the USAF way is easier to
learn, (one altitude, no decending break, allows a rollout on final
further from the runway, allows a constant rate of turn on final vs a
changing bank/rate of turn the Navy pattern requires due to the base
position being abeam the touchdown point).
The overhead pattern lets a formation of aircraft go from close/fingertip
formation to a trail formation in minimum time and minimum airspace. It
eliminates the need for wingmen to slow down or perform massive s-turning
to obtain spacing on final. It also allows aircraft to get to the runway
in minimum time for fuel or threat.
Just my 2 cents. Thanks to everyone for all the great info and emails.
Bill Sipher
RV-4
writes:
>
> Bill,
>
> I've heard all kinds of initial and overhead calls...and the
> controllers
> seem to get the picture as long as you say something close. But,
> this
> is how we were taught to do it in the late 90's when I was in
> flight
> school in Kingsville, TX, and how most fleet Marine and Navy
> squadrons
> do it.
>
> "Tower, Devil 255 flight of two, initial, for the break" or "...for
> the
> carrier" meaning 600' AGL Aircraft Carrier pattern. The airforce
> calls
> it the overhead, I believe.
>
> The tower typically responds, "Roger 255, number 1 for the carrier,
> report the numbers." Meaning you're first in line to land, report
> back
> to the tower when you arrive over the runway numbers at the
> approach
> end.
>
> Then, as the approach end numbers slide under the nose you say,
> "255,
> numbers."...look over at your dash two all sucked in nice and
> tight,
> give him the 'kiss-off' signal, and freakin' yank that sucker
> around!!...all the while chopping throttle and dropping flaps (at
> the
> appropriate speeds of course), and speed breaks, and the barn door,
> and
> anything else you think might get you slowed down to gear speed by
> the
> 180 position. :) You started this thing at around 450kts!!!
>
> Honestly, it's not as violent a maneuver as I'm making it sound.
> But
> there is the unwritten rule of all fighter pilots. 'You might look
> like
> hell anywhere else, but you better look good at the break..."
>
> Anyway, if this doesn't paint the picture, I probably can go dig up
> my
> old flight school manuals and give it to you verbatim.
>
> Clayton Henderson
> RV-7 Fuselage
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill
> VonDane
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RV-List: Radio Calls...
>
>
> Can someone give me some example of how to properly call an
> "initial"
> and a "360 Overhead"?
>
> Thanks!
>
>
> Bill VonDane
> RV-8A
> www.vondane.com
> www.creativair.com
> www.epanelbuilder.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rv6tc" <rv6tc(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Radio Calls... |
Mr Condon,
First of all.... I am NOT a military pilot "wantabee". I'm a military pilot
"ustabee". And the verbiage that I specified in the post you quoted was not
"specialized jargon". It is quite standardized jargon going back many, many
years. As others have said, the Overhead is printed in the AIM. If you are
confused, then I suggest you either a) Ask. Or b). Read you AIM.
There are many tools a good pilot can put in his "toolbag" that will help
everyone. Airmanship.... it's the difference between being an "airplane
driver" and a real pilot.
Keith Hughes
----- Original Message -----
From: "P M Condon" <pcondon(at)mitre.org>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Radio Calls...
>
> There is a major safety issue here. When using localized or specialized
> jargon, or terminology that only make sense to a select few then the
> folks not in on the secret language or jargon are unaware of the
> event(s) taking place around them. I have been at airports where
> military wantabees or others used this specialized jargon only to cause
> major problems and confusion in the pattern. I guess that they felt cool
> using the jargon, the other pilots in the pattern felt otherwise.....
>
>
> In reply to:
>
>
> Bill,
>
> "Experimental xxx, Initial." You can include a mileage, as in
> "Experimental
> xxx, 2 mi Initial." In the Air Force, the "standard" initial was 3 - 5
> miles. If you are at a military, or a joint use field (ABQ, for
> example)
> realize that the overhead pattern altitude is usually published and is
> 500
> feet above the rectangular altitude (sometimes 1,000' above). By the
> way,
> most controllers that I've ever dealt with are familiar with an
> Overhead.
> And none of the AF guys I know add the "360" to the title. In fact, the
> other day, the pattern was a little crazy at Centennial (KAPA) and I
> requested to break out of the 35 pattern and just report Initial for 28.
> Worked like a charm. If the direction of the break is not published,
> the
> controller may ask which way you want to break. Also (AF, again) you
> typically break from the threshold to the 3,000' mark. Midfield or
> departure end breaks are not "standard" but can either be requested by
> you
> or the controller for spacing.
>
> Hope that helps.
>
> Keith Hughes
> Parker, CO
> T-38 IP, Capt, USAF emeritus
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron skins |
>
>Working on the ailerons for my 8. Is there a top/bottom to the skins? They
>are marked left and right, but no top and bottom.
Ken, I haven't seen a public response to your question so I'll fire one off.
A couple things orient the skin the correct way. As a reference the first
prepunched rivet hole on the inboard side is a little over 1.5" while the
same hole on the outboard is a little over an inch. Now take the spar
marked either left or right. With the outboard and inboard rivet holes
spaced differently, the correct spar will only fit in one way. Now you have
a left and right aileron. The >1.5 rivet hole spacing is the inboard side
of the aileron, thus it defines the top of the skin. Now just take our
sharpie out and mark everything.
http://www.msnmessenger-download.com/tracking/reach_emoticon
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tuned Exhaust for O-360? |
I've called a half dozen manufacturers to ask the same thing, all said no.
If you find someone, let me know.
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: <N223RV(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Tuned Exhaust for O-360?
>
> I know most of us are using Vetterman exhaust, but I was wondering if
there
> is a tuned exhaust system available to fit in an RV-7 with an O-360?
>
> Any ideas? Any word on performance? Price?
>
> Thanks for any help!
> -Mike Kraus
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GRGSCHMIDT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tuned Exhaust for O-360? |
I ran into the same dilemma when building two RV6 aircraft with LYC
IO-360-B1B engines. I designed the exhaust system based on data gathered from numerous
sources and had Vernon Rich in Phoenix (DVT airport) build for me. Each
primary tube is exactly 40" long and flow into a 11" collector aligned with the
aircraft centerline.
The first flight is scheduled for next month and performance details will
become available then.
Greg Schmidt
RV6S N250GS
Phoenix DVT
________________________________________________________________________________
I can't find anyone in the archives that has a darker canopy the the 2514.
I am looking at a bronze/smoke 2404 with 49% penetration to go with my
spartan gold stripping/black. Anybody out there with anything darker than
59% care to talk? I'm sorry but I don't remember the person's name with
the beautiful red 8 with the really, really dark canopy that posted
something here about his paint job..........the one at Oshkosh this year.
Send me something off list if you do not see this as beneficial to all.
I have to make a decision by the beginning of the week. The shop is only a
couple hours from my house so I am just going to drive and pick my canopy up
instead of having it drop shipped or shipped to Van's and supplied with my
finish kit.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
Hey Dana:
We sell the 2404 with the F1 kits as an option --- we have one on the demo
ship. It's much cooler than the 2514, even with a sunshade on the 2514! I think
something darker would not be good for night VFR.
I've seen the -8 you refer to -- very nice work, and striking to look at.
You'll be happy with the 2404, IMHO.
Cheers
Mark
Team Rocket
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tuned Exhaust for O-360? |
You might check with Sky Dynamics:
http://www.skydynamics.com/homepage.html
Sam Buchanan
====================
"Wayne R. Couture" wrote:
>
>
> I've called a half dozen manufacturers to ask the same thing, all said no.
> If you find someone, let me know.
>
> Wayne
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <N223RV(at)aol.com>
> To: ;
> Subject: RV-List: Tuned Exhaust for O-360?
>
> >
> > I know most of us are using Vetterman exhaust, but I was wondering if
> there
> > is a tuned exhaust system available to fit in an RV-7 with an O-360?
> >
> > Any ideas? Any word on performance? Price?
> >
> > Thanks for any help!
> > -Mike Kraus
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tuned Exhaust for O-360? |
Mike
Sky Dynamics makes 4 into 1 tuned exhausts for the RV series. They do a lot of
business with the acro crowd.
http://www.skydynamics.com/homepage.html
There aren't any photos of their exhaust on the web page.
You can also contact Custom Aircraft Parts. They make 4 into 1 exhausts for the
tail wheel RVs
http://www.customaircraft.com/
Charlie Kuss
>
>I know most of us are using Vetterman exhaust, but I was wondering if there
>is a tuned exhaust system available to fit in an RV-7 with an O-360?
>
>Any ideas? Any word on performance? Price?
>
>Thanks for any help!
>-Mike Kraus
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garry Legare <versadek(at)earthlink.net> |
I e-mail from their site yesterday, a request for an update as to when
they projected my transceivers would be shipped. It was returned as
"Host Unknown". Anybody else hear from them. I'm redoing my panel this
winter and was going to use a pair of their radios. Still got some time,
but getting concerned.
Casper
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tuned Exhaust for O-360? |
Charlie Kuss wrote:
>
>
> Mike
> Sky Dynamics makes 4 into 1 tuned exhausts for the RV series. They do a lot
of business with the acro crowd.
> http://www.skydynamics.com/homepage.html
> There aren't any photos of their exhaust on the web page.
Here are photos:
http://www.skydynamics.com/homepage.html
http://www.skydynamics.com/homepage.html
Sam Buchanan
===================================
>
> >
> >I know most of us are using Vetterman exhaust, but I was wondering if there
> >is a tuned exhaust system available to fit in an RV-7 with an O-360?
> >
> >Any ideas? Any word on performance? Price?
> >
> >Thanks for any help!
> >-Mike Kraus
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris W <chrisw3(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: XCOM What's up |
Garry Legare wrote:
> I e-mail from their site yesterday, a request for an update as to when
> they projected my transceivers would be shipped. It was returned as
> "Host Unknown". Anybody else hear from them. I'm redoing my panel this
> winter and was going to use a pair of their radios. Still got some time,
> but getting concerned.
> Casper
There can be temporary glitches in the DNS lookup that will give you that
error. I would just double check the email address and try again a few
hours later.
--
Chris Woodhouse
3147 SW 127th St.
Oklahoma City, OK 73170
405-691-5206
chrisw(at)programmer.net
N35 20.492'
W97 34.342'
"They that can give up essential liberty
to obtain a little temporary safety
deserve neither liberty nor safety."
-- Benjamin Franklin, 1759 Historical Review of Pennsylvania
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
There was a familiar name in this morning's AOPA e-mail newsletter:
VOLUNTEER OF THE MONTH-RANDALL HENDERSON
Two years after his appointment as the AOPA Airport Support Network
volunteer for Seaside Municipal Airport in Seaside, Oregon, Randall
Henderson is the vice chairman and liaison to state and federal government
agencies for the city airport committee. His efforts at the airport include
convincing the City of Seaside to commit to keeping the airport, applying
for a federal grant, and creating a nine-member airport committee. Henderson
credits the ASN program, its resources, and the credibility of his ASN
volunteer status with creating the incentive and confidence to follow
through with the challenge of saving an airport. Why not join the program
and help your airport? See AOPA Online.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | AEIO-360 engine for sale |
Listers,
Our local EAA Chapter held a picnic at Willis Gliderport in Boynton Beach recently.
While speaking to the son in law of our host, I noticed a low time 360 engine
sitting on a pallet in his hanger. I asked him about it. He told me that
it was an AEIO-360-A1E (200 hp) engine with 70 hours TT since new. It was removed
from an aircraft to install a Lycoming AEIO-540 engine. I thought someone
on the list might be interested in it. I'm interested, but don't have that sort
of cash.
The engine has a Monte Barrett forward facing sump, so you could eliminate the
intake snorkel. For more info please contact Chris Meyer directly at Chrism2(at)bellsouth.net
or by phone at (561)737-6306 Price is $25,000 or best offer. I
do have several photos I can send off list to anyone interested, I can email them
to you.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8A cockpit systems stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Crosley, Rich" <RCROSLEY(at)HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM> |
| Subject: | re: rv-list: grounding |
Jim,
I am also building an "8" and using Van's wiring kit. I added B&C's
grounding block in addition. I ran a wire from the back side of the firewall
ground to the bulkhead behind the instrument panel and ground everything
there to the block. Might try that. Here is the web site.
http://www.bandc.biz/cgi-bin/ez-catalog/cat_display.cgi?26X358218
Rich Crosley
Palmdale, CA
RV-8 wiring and engine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Crosley, Rich" <RCROSLEY(at)HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM> |
| Subject: | Wiring the Lasar system |
I bought the l Lasar system for my O-360 but didn't receive any installation
information. Van's says they don't supply wiring info. Does any one have
the data or do I buy the manual from Unison?
Thanks
Rich Crosley
Palmdale, CA
RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
In my -8, I have a couple of grounding blocks behind the instrument panel
wired to the main airframe ground fwd of the firewall. Everything else -
strobe transformer, land lights, nav lights,aux fuel pump, etc - is all
grounded through the airframe. No noise filters on the mag p-leads either,
and (fortunately) have essentially no "electrical noise" or other negative
effects evident.
my 2
Bryan Jones -8
Pearland, Texas
>I am also building an "8" and using Van's wiring kit. I added B&C's
>grounding block in addition. I ran a wire from the back side of the
>firewall
>ground to the bulkhead behind the instrument panel and ground everything
>there to the block. Might try that. Here is the web site.
>http://www.bandc.biz/cgi-bin/ez-catalog/cat_display.cgi?26X358218
Compare Cable, DSL or Satellite plans: As low as $29.95.
https://broadband.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nebr RV-8" <nebrrv8(at)earthlink.net> |
Thanks guys. That is how I will do it.
Jim Muegge
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV_8 Pilot
Subject: RV-List: grounding
In my -8, I have a couple of grounding blocks behind the instrument
panel
wired to the main airframe ground fwd of the firewall. Everything else
-
strobe transformer, land lights, nav lights,aux fuel pump, etc - is all
grounded through the airframe. No noise filters on the mag p-leads
either,
and (fortunately) have essentially no "electrical noise" or other
negative
effects evident.
my 2
Bryan Jones -8
Pearland, Texas
>I am also building an "8" and using Van's wiring kit. I added B&C's
>grounding block in addition. I ran a wire from the back side of the
>firewall
>ground to the bulkhead behind the instrument panel and ground
everything
>there to the block. Might try that. Here is the web site.
>http://www.bandc.biz/cgi-bin/ez-catalog/cat_display.cgi?26X358218
Compare Cable, DSL or Satellite plans: As low as $29.95.
https://broadband.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gasoline seasonal blending |
| From: | "Bruce Anthony" <bruce.anthony(at)holidaycompanies.com> |
Bill,
The federal mandate requires that low RVP gasoline be sold at retail between June
1 and September 15 each year. Smart retailers are probably there before September
15th as the penalties are pretty severe. I am not sure if that changes
for so-called ozone non-attainment areas or not. Where do you live? Is there
any particular reason why you don't want to use higher vapor pressure gasoline?
Just wondering.
Bruce Anthony
N942CB reserved
Rosemount, Minnesota
In the empennage stage still
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com> |
List:
Thought those that are interested in the Dynon might like to know that they are
ahead of schedule with production. I ordered my unit (number 423) at Oshkosh
and was told that delivery would be in 12 weeks. Got the call today that it
has been shipped out and will be here next week. That makes it a 6 week lead
time to date.
Guess I better get moving on my panel!!
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
finish kit
Peshtigo, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wiring the Lasar system |
In a message dated 9/5/03 2:11:45 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
RCROSLEY(at)HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM writes:
> I bought the l Lasar system for my O-360 but didn't receive any
> installation
> information. Van's says they don't supply wiring info. Does any one have
> the data or do I buy the manual from Unison?
>
>
Contact Unison. If I remember correctly, they gave me the manual and also a
VCR tape on installation - free. I purchased the LASAR with the engine from
Aero Sport Power.
Dale Ensing
Aero Plantation
North Carolina
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
Where do you live? Is there any particular reason why you don't want to use higher
vapor pressure gasoline?
Yeah, Bruce: vapor lock. I hope to avoid it. I believe I have experienced it
several times on startup at a mountain airport (3800MSL) after a quick stop and
restart (5-10 minutes to heat-soak); either vapor lock or an over-rich condition
which allows a start but the engine sputters and dies, becoming very difficult
to restart. I never want to face this on takeoff if it's vapor lock, so
I try to stack the deck in my favor.
-Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: re: radio calls |
I would like to add something here.
Even if you don't know anything about the overhead pattern, it should not
effect the way you fly your pattern. The pilot calling INITIAL at a
uncontrolled field has the responsibility to fit his plane or flight into
the other aircraft already in the pattern. At a controlled field, the
controller should be doing this.
Knowledge is power. Now that you know a little about the pattern, you
should know where to look for this traffic. This is in case he / she makes
a mistake and breaks into you. (I would not want to die just because I am
right or have the right of way. Your point!)
The break over the numbers only works if there is no one already on
downwind. With a plane on downwind, I would delay the break (turn to
downwind) until I knew I had proper spacing on the aircraft in front of me.
In other words, I would wait until all the downwind traffic passed me and
then I would break and follow them in.
No radio, well we are all to look around the pattern and avoid aircraft that
don't see us.
Have fun.
Too bad we all can't get together for a little face to face time as a 15
minute briefing would answer just about everybody's questions.
Again, anybody with questions can please contact me off the list and I will
do my best to answer them.
Tom
t.gummo(at)verizon.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard B. Rauch" <richardr(at)apcon.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wiring the Lasar system |
I purchased an O-360 with the Laser system installed from Vans. I received a full
manual with it.
If you can't get it from Unison, let me know. I can make a copy and send it to
you.
Richard
>
>I bought the l Lasar system for my O-360 but didn't receive any installation
>information. Van's says they don't supply wiring info. Does any one have
>the data or do I buy the manual from Unison?
>
>Thanks
>
>Rich Crosley
>Palmdale, CA
>RV-8
>
>
Richard B. Rauch
Email: richardr(at)apcon.com
APCON, Inc.
17938 SW Upper Boones Ferry Rd.
Portland, OR 97224 USA
Ph: (503)639-6700
Fax: (503)639-6740
Web: www.apcon.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronnie Brown" <romott(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Alternator for Lycoming |
Does anyone know what automotive alternator (make and model of the vehicle),
that the Lycoming alternator is copied from?
My alternator shop says it is a 60-70's Chrysler or Ford but didn't know
exactly which one.
Ronnie Brown
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wiring the Lasar system |
I downloaded a LASAR manual (service letter SL1-96) from their website
in PDF format a while ago. maybe snoop around on their website.
Richard B. Rauch wrote:
>
> I purchased an O-360 with the Laser system installed from Vans. I received a
full manual with it.
>
> If you can't get it from Unison, let me know. I can make a copy and send it to
you.
>
> Richard
>
>
>
>>
>>I bought the l Lasar system for my O-360 but didn't receive any installation
>>information. Van's says they don't supply wiring info. Does any one have
>>the data or do I buy the manual from Unison?
>>
>>Thanks
>>
>>Rich Crosley
>>Palmdale, CA
>>RV-8
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> Richard B. Rauch
> Email: richardr(at)apcon.com
>
> APCON, Inc.
> 17938 SW Upper Boones Ferry Rd.
> Portland, OR 97224 USA
> Ph: (503)639-6700
> Fax: (503)639-6740
>
> Web: www.apcon.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alternator for Lycoming |
The alternator that came with my 0 SMOH O-320 has an Elecrosystems Inc
plate on it that says "Orig Mfg-- Ford" , Mod-- 00315 - 15V, Pt
No-DOFF10300J. It's a large heavy brute and didn't use it on my -6A, so that
is why I had it kicking around in my basement.
Cheers! --Henry
Hore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phat Phil <phugoid(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: re: radio calls |
I've been following this thread with great interest.
I keep reading that you call initial 1 to 3 miles out.
My question is: is this your first contact with the tower or do you
contact them 5 to 10 miles as i think most of us do
and inform them of your intentions?
Phil
Tom Gummo wrote:
>
>I would like to add something here.
>
>Even if you don't know anything about the overhead pattern, it should not
>effect the way you fly your pattern. The pilot calling INITIAL at a
>uncontrolled field has the responsibility to fit his plane or flight into
>the other aircraft already in the pattern. At a controlled field, the
>controller should be doing this.
>
>Knowledge is power. Now that you know a little about the pattern, you
>should know where to look for this traffic. This is in case he / she makes
>a mistake and breaks into you. (I would not want to die just because I am
>right or have the right of way. Your point!)
>
>The break over the numbers only works if there is no one already on
>downwind. With a plane on downwind, I would delay the break (turn to
>downwind) until I knew I had proper spacing on the aircraft in front of me.
>In other words, I would wait until all the downwind traffic passed me and
>then I would break and follow them in.
>
>No radio, well we are all to look around the pattern and avoid aircraft that
>don't see us.
>
>Have fun.
>
>Too bad we all can't get together for a little face to face time as a 15
>minute briefing would answer just about everybody's questions.
>
>Again, anybody with questions can please contact me off the list and I will
>do my best to answer them.
>
>Tom
>t.gummo(at)verizon.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clayton Henderson" <gsuit(at)eonet.net> |
Yeah, but I ask the List...
Which way seems more fun!!!!
:)
CH
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
sipherrv(at)juno.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Radio Calls...
As for the USAF side of things.
1. Normally you set your self and formation lined up with the landing
runway, usually 1-3nm from the approach end of the runway at pattern
altitude.
The typical radio call is: "Viper 11 flight initial" or "Viper 11
flight
of 4 initial" or "Viper 11 flight 3 mile initial" Tower will normally
follow with "Roger Viper 11, report base". Variations 2 and 3 above are
technique and useful when trying to give the tower additional
information.
2. Prior to or upon reaching the approach end of the runway, lead gives
the pitchout signal (spinning index finger in a circular motion) and
upon
a headnod from #2, he pitches out (the USAF doesn't use the kiss-off
signal). Lead will normally then pitch out over the numbers or as
directed by tower. The pitch out is Usually a 45-80degree bank turn
using 2-max alowable G with the throttle in idle to bleed down airspeed
to final turn airspeed. (the more G, the more fun it is, plus the
tighter the patters). Number two will wait the briefed time delay and
follow (usually 5 seconds).
3. Lead will rollout, continue to slow and configure (gear and flaps).
Wingman line up directly behind lead (left/right and up/down) and
follow
with 3 and 4 matching the spacing and timing of #2.
4. Upon reaching a position abeam the point on final you desire to
roll-out of the final turn (typically 1/4 to 1nm), you start a decending
turn and make the following radio call:
The typical radio call is "Viper 11 base gear-down fullstop" or "Viper
11
base gear-down touch-n-go" Some people also add right or left to the
base call. #2, #3, and #4 will repeat this when they reach the base
position.
5. The final turn is flown in a constant decent and constant turn to
roll out on final to allow you to stabilize and correct for glidepath
and
crosswind. (USAF requires fighters and trainers to roll out at 1nm and
300ft for a 3deg glide path).
This is a quick description of the USAF way. There are differences
between the USAF and USN way of flying the overhead pattern. Having
been
an instructor in the USAF AT-38 and F-16s and the Navy T-34C at Whiting
NAS, I have instructed both ways. Overall the USAF way is easier to
learn, (one altitude, no decending break, allows a rollout on final
further from the runway, allows a constant rate of turn on final vs a
changing bank/rate of turn the Navy pattern requires due to the base
position being abeam the touchdown point).
The overhead pattern lets a formation of aircraft go from
close/fingertip
formation to a trail formation in minimum time and minimum airspace. It
eliminates the need for wingmen to slow down or perform massive
s-turning
to obtain spacing on final. It also allows aircraft to get to the
runway
in minimum time for fuel or threat.
Just my 2 cents. Thanks to everyone for all the great info and emails.
Bill Sipher
RV-4
writes:
>
> Bill,
>
> I've heard all kinds of initial and overhead calls...and the
> controllers
> seem to get the picture as long as you say something close. But,
> this
> is how we were taught to do it in the late 90's when I was in
> flight
> school in Kingsville, TX, and how most fleet Marine and Navy
> squadrons
> do it.
>
> "Tower, Devil 255 flight of two, initial, for the break" or "...for
> the
> carrier" meaning 600' AGL Aircraft Carrier pattern. The airforce
> calls
> it the overhead, I believe.
>
> The tower typically responds, "Roger 255, number 1 for the carrier,
> report the numbers." Meaning you're first in line to land, report
> back
> to the tower when you arrive over the runway numbers at the
> approach
> end.
>
> Then, as the approach end numbers slide under the nose you say,
> "255,
> numbers."...look over at your dash two all sucked in nice and
> tight,
> give him the 'kiss-off' signal, and freakin' yank that sucker
> around!!...all the while chopping throttle and dropping flaps (at
> the
> appropriate speeds of course), and speed breaks, and the barn door,
> and
> anything else you think might get you slowed down to gear speed by
> the
> 180 position. :) You started this thing at around 450kts!!!
>
> Honestly, it's not as violent a maneuver as I'm making it sound.
> But
> there is the unwritten rule of all fighter pilots. 'You might look
> like
> hell anywhere else, but you better look good at the break..."
>
> Anyway, if this doesn't paint the picture, I probably can go dig up
> my
> old flight school manuals and give it to you verbatim.
>
> Clayton Henderson
> RV-7 Fuselage
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill
> VonDane
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RV-List: Radio Calls...
>
>
> Can someone give me some example of how to properly call an
> "initial"
> and a "360 Overhead"?
>
> Thanks!
>
>
> Bill VonDane
> RV-8A
> www.vondane.com
> www.creativair.com
> www.epanelbuilder.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: re: radio calls |
Phil,
Yes, contact the tower as far out as possible. The tower will most likely
then tell you to Report a "X" nm Initial. Then just follow their
directions. Takes the guess work out of it when using the tower.
I have had towers tell me to report a 5 nm Initial. I think the 1-3 nm
range is so that you can avoid over flying something on the ground where a
fixed distance might force you to fly near/over a school or tower, etc, etc.
Love this list, love the RV series
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, Ca
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phat Phil" <phugoid(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: re: radio calls
>
> I've been following this thread with great interest.
> I keep reading that you call initial 1 to 3 miles out.
> My question is: is this your first contact with the tower or do you
> contact them 5 to 10 miles as i think most of us do
> and inform them of your intentions?
>
> Phil
>
>
> Tom Gummo wrote:
>
> >
> >I would like to add something here.
> >
> >Even if you don't know anything about the overhead pattern, it should not
> >effect the way you fly your pattern. The pilot calling INITIAL at a
> >uncontrolled field has the responsibility to fit his plane or flight into
> >the other aircraft already in the pattern. At a controlled field, the
> >controller should be doing this.
> >
> >Knowledge is power. Now that you know a little about the pattern, you
> >should know where to look for this traffic. This is in case he / she
makes
> >a mistake and breaks into you. (I would not want to die just because I
am
> >right or have the right of way. Your point!)
> >
> >The break over the numbers only works if there is no one already on
> >downwind. With a plane on downwind, I would delay the break (turn to
> >downwind) until I knew I had proper spacing on the aircraft in front of
me.
> >In other words, I would wait until all the downwind traffic passed me and
> >then I would break and follow them in.
> >
> >No radio, well we are all to look around the pattern and avoid aircraft
that
> >don't see us.
> >
> >Have fun.
> >
> >Too bad we all can't get together for a little face to face time as a 15
> >minute briefing would answer just about everybody's questions.
> >
> >Again, anybody with questions can please contact me off the list and I
will
> >do my best to answer them.
> >
> >Tom
> >t.gummo(at)verizon.net
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6160hp(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | 9th Annual RV Forum, EAA486 Fulton NY |
GETTING CLOSE....see you there???
Counting now some 23 RV's from Mid Atlantic RV Wing of Van's Air Force now planning
to make the trip. That is just 1 group, which provided @12 last year (out
of the 56= RV's).
If you want to se RV's and perhaps beg a ride you really have some of the best
odds here ever!!!
Not to late to attend drop us a line at:
Bill Hodge..... DRmotorHD(at)aol.com
David McManmon.... McManD(at)aol.com
September 12, 2003 Friday night fly in, cook out and camp out. The EAA 486 General
meeting night too.
September 13, 2003 Saturday technical seminars all day, meals provided to paid
attendee's. Then a nice dinner banquet with a presentation. This year Mr. Kirk
House, ex-Director Curator of the Glenn Cirtiss Museum will talk about the
books on Glenn he wrote, and how Glenn was the ultimate Experimenter!
September 14, 2003 Sunday AM our great pancake breakfast and perhaps a coordinated
fly out for lunch, planes, weather and pilots willing.
see us at www.eaachapter486.com
Last year over 56 RV's and 25 SPAM's flew in with over 150 attendee's. There was
Mike Seager and the Factory RV6 doing instruction and manufacturers like Lycoming
and Aerospace logic with tables displaying and selling their wares.
I could go on...but you get the picture...just ask some one who has been there
the $45 is easily worth it. Hope to See
you all there.
Respectfully,
David McManmon
President EAA 486
RV6 Flying, Builder, Pilot N58DM
DNA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie & Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Slobovia Outernational Airport flyin/party |
You are all cordially invited to the next flyin
lunch/supper/all-weekend-long hangar party at Slobovia Outernational
Airport, 10 miles north of Jackson MS on October 17-19, 2003. If flying
fun isn't enough reason to party, it's wedding anniversary time for two
families here, so come & help us celebrate.
Overnighters are welcome any time after noon on Friday, and are welcome
to stay through Sunday. Bring your bed roll and if desired, a tent. We
have lots of indoor floor space & even more outdoor tent space, so come
on down!
We had a great turnout in July with about 45 planes, including around 20
RV's. We are hoping for at least twice that number in October.
The noon meal on Saturday will again be 'pulled pork', thanks to the
wonderful wives here in our strange corner of the universe. If you can
stay for the hangar party Saturday night, we plan on having pizza &
'beverages' with a live band for entertainment. Bring your dancin' shoes.
You can get info about our airport at airnav.com
http://www.airnav.com/airport/MS71
Update: runway length is now 4800 feet.
Disclaimer: Slobovia is a private airport. Pilots operate at their own risk.
If you need driving directions or more info, feel free to email me at
cengland(at)netdoor.com
or call at 601-879-9596.
FAA Identifier: MS71
Lat/Long: 32-29-42.508N / 090-17-34.325W
32-29.70847N / 090-17.57208W
32.4951411 / -90.2928681
(estimated)
Elevation: 250 ft. / 76 m (estimated)
Variation: 03E (1985)
From city: 1 mile N of POCAHONTAS, MS
Airport Operations
Airport use: Private use. Permission required prior to landing
Activation date: 11/1988
Sectional chart: MEMPHIS
<http://www.airnav.com/ad/click/taHR0cDovL3d3dy5hdnNob3.uY29tL3NlY3Rpb25hbGNoYXJ0cy5odG1sP3Jl+LZj05MyBhdnNob3..>
Control tower: no
ARTCC: MEMPHIS CENTER
FSS: GREENWOOD FLIGHT SERVICE STATION [1-800-WX-BRIEF]
Attendance: UNATNDD
Wind indicator: yes
Segmented circle: no
Lights: RDO REQ
Beacon: unknown
Airport Communications
UNICOM: 122.75
WX ASOS at HKS (10 nm S): 120.625 (601-354-4037)
WX ASOS at JAN (16 nm SE): PHONE 601-932-2822
Nearby radio navigation aids
VOR radial/distance VOR name Freq
Var
JAN
<http://www.airnav.com/cgi-bin/navaid-info?id=JAN&type=VORTAC&name=JACKSON>r258/6.4
JACKSON VORTAC
112.60
05E
NDB name Hdg/Dist Freq
Var ID
BRENZ
<http://www.airnav.com/cgi-bin/navaid-info?type=NDB&id=JH&name=BRENZ>
340/5.2
260
02E
JH .--- ....
RAYMOND
<http://www.airnav.com/cgi-bin/navaid-info?type=NDB&id=RYB&name=RAYMOND>
024/13.1
375
03E
RYB .-. -.-- -...
VICKSBURG
<http://www.airnav.com/cgi-bin/navaid-info?type=NDB&id=VKS&name=VICKSBURG>
061/35.8
382
03E
VKS ...- -.- ...
Airport Services
Runway Information
Runway 15/33
Dimensions: 3540 x 80 ft. / 1079 x 24 m
Surface: turf
RUNWAY 15 RUNWAY 33
Traffic pattern: left
left
Obstructions: 70 ft. trees, 200 ft. from runway
none
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Slobovia Outernational Airport flyin/party |
Hi ya'll. Appreciate the invite. I enjoyed the last shindig and would love to
come back. Unfortunately that is the same date as the annual RV fly in at Las
Cruces, NM which several of us have already planned for....but if WX or ??
fouls that trip MS71 will be our alternate.
Thanks and hope u have a blast.
Doug Preston
RV8 N127EK
BHM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Mcmahon <rv6(at)earthlink.net> |
Dan
I have what you need,I will try to send your way later today!!
John McMahon (rv6 )
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: photos of aluminum plenums |
| From: | Jim Daniels <jwdanie(at)comcast.net> |
> If anybody has any photos of an aluminum plenum (dog house), can you
> please
> send them my way? I'm just trying to gather perspective (aka: steal
> ideas)
> before building mine.
Dan,
Here are a couple web sites I stashed away. I'd be interested if you
get any additional pointers. You know, this would make a great after
market item for one of our entrepreneurial builders out there.
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/5379/eng1.html
http://rv8a.tripod.com/plenum.html
Jim Daniels
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: photos of aluminum plenums |
I don't think they have to be exactly the same (rounded shape) as the
cowl inlets. Most of plenums I have seen, mine included, made the
inlets square, and it is not too difficult to seal the area with airseal
as you describe. With a conventional baffle system, you use airseal
fabric to seal the bottom and sides in much the same way, with a plenum
you are just adding the top to be sealed as well. I did it with two
pieces on each side, top and bottom. The trick, and the most difficult
part of designing/ building the plenum IMHO, is to get the inlets to
align as close as possible to the cowl inlets (assuming the cowl is fit)
as this makes it much easier to seal the inlets.
Still having trouble with my scanner, as soon as I sort it out I will
send the pics I promised last night.
Jeff Point
Dan Checkoway wrote:
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gilalex(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: photos of aluminum plenums |
There is an exception to the square inlets mentioned below. However, it's
not an aluminum plenum...
The original Steve Barnhard (sp?) cowl uses a round inlet - actually a
turned aluminum piece that is held in place by a groove in the upper and
lower cowls. It is connected to the plenum with a tubular piece of rubber
(truck inner tube) clamped at both ends. The tube connects to a fiberglass
molded inlet to the plenum area.
The cowl pieces can be seen here....
http://www.rv-8.com/Cowl.htm#The%20Cowl
And I think this is the same part - just updated from Steve's.....
http://www.jamesaircraft.com/
gil in Tucson
>
>I don't think they have to be exactly the same (rounded shape) as the
>cowl inlets. Most of plenums I have seen, mine included, made the
>inlets square, and it is not too difficult to seal the area with airseal
>as you describe. With a conventional baffle system, you use airseal
>fabric to seal the bottom and sides in much the same way, with a plenum
>you are just adding the top to be sealed as well. I did it with two
>pieces on each side, top and bottom. The trick, and the most difficult
>part of designing/ building the plenum IMHO, is to get the inlets to
>align as close as possible to the cowl inlets (assuming the cowl is fit)
>as this makes it much easier to seal the inlets.
>
>Still having trouble with my scanner, as soon as I sort it out I will
>send the pics I promised last night.
>
>Jeff Point
>
>Dan Checkoway wrote:
>
>
RV-6A, #20701 .. fitting out firewall...
77 Tiger N28478 at 57AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim and Bev Cone" <jimnbev(at)olypen.com> |
The Pelican alternator sold by ACS is off of a Chevy Sprint
Spectrum. It is a small 65 amp alternator that is self regulating and has automatic
overheat protection that resets when an overheated condition is resolved.
I have one and it works well.
Jim Cone
3peat offender
From: "Ronnie Brown" <romott(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: RV-List: Alternator for Lycoming
Does anyone know what automotive alternator (make and model of the vehicle),
that the Lycoming alternator is copied from?
"Are you still wasting your time with spam?...
There is a solution!"
Protected by GIANT Company's Spam Inspector
The most powerful anti-spam software available.
http://www.giantcompany.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: re: radio calls |
| From: | sipherrv(at)juno.com |
Hi,
Normally with a tower controlled field I would call them within 10nm of
the field and tell them that you wish to wish to report initial for the
Overhead. I would tipically say something like:
"Lubbock Tower, Viper 11, ten nautical miles west of the field for
Initial Rwy 30" (assuming I had the atis and knew what the active runway
was).
Then normally tower will have you report initial (the 1-3nm call). Some
towers will just then say "Roger Viper 11 report base". Which is
clearance to initial, clearance to break and you don't need to call
initial with this clearance. The next call is the base call.
Obviously while flying from a position west of the field to set up on the
initial going west, I would fly my aircraft to an outside downwind
position, turn a 3-5nm "90 to initial" position (like a wide base), then
turn initial down the runway active runway (duty runway for our Navy
folks).
I think that everyones had had great comments on the subject. And common
sense always applies. But the overhead pattern and calls are always
easier to draw and talk about vs just text on in an email. (a picture is
definitely worth a 1000s words)
v/r
Bill Sipher
RV-4
writes:
>
> I've been following this thread with great interest.
> I keep reading that you call initial 1 to 3 miles out.
> My question is: is this your first contact with the tower or do you
>
> contact them 5 to 10 miles as i think most of us do
> and inform them of your intentions?
>
> Phil
>
>
> Tom Gummo wrote:
>
> >
> >I would like to add something here.
> >
> >Even if you don't know anything about the overhead pattern, it
> should not
> >effect the way you fly your pattern. The pilot calling INITIAL at
> a
> >uncontrolled field has the responsibility to fit his plane or
> flight into
> >the other aircraft already in the pattern. At a controlled field,
> the
> >controller should be doing this.
> >
> >Knowledge is power. Now that you know a little about the pattern,
> you
> >should know where to look for this traffic. This is in case he /
> she makes
> >a mistake and breaks into you. (I would not want to die just
> because I am
> >right or have the right of way. Your point!)
> >
> >The break over the numbers only works if there is no one already
> on
> >downwind. With a plane on downwind, I would delay the break (turn
> to
> >downwind) until I knew I had proper spacing on the aircraft in
> front of me.
> >In other words, I would wait until all the downwind traffic passed
> me and
> >then I would break and follow them in.
> >
> >No radio, well we are all to look around the pattern and avoid
> aircraft that
> >don't see us.
> >
> >Have fun.
> >
> >Too bad we all can't get together for a little face to face time as
> a 15
> >minute briefing would answer just about everybody's questions.
> >
> >Again, anybody with questions can please contact me off the list
> and I will
> >do my best to answer them.
> >
> >Tom
> >t.gummo(at)verizon.net
> >
> >
>
>
> ===============
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BillDube(at)killacycle.com" <BillDube(at)killacycle.com> |
| Subject: | Squeezer on Ebay |
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2552765392&category=31482&rd=1
Looks like a pretty good deal on a squeezer with dies.
This unit is set up for 1/4" shank dies, but I'd bet that a regular 214
style C-yoke with a 3/16" push rod would fit. Regardless, it's a heck of a
deal as it is.
Bill Dube
http://www.killacycle.com/Lights.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
Listers:
Until this may, I needed to add air to my tires every 2 to 3 weeks.
Definite pain for a non-tinker oriented RVer such as myself.
When I changed the tires at the annual in May this year, I went to Michelin
Air-Stop tubes. Since that time I have not needed to add air. I haven't
checked the pressure since I don't want to lose air, but it pulls out of the
hangar just fine.
Now I'm getting jazzed. Can I make it until LOE 3? Can I make it six
months? Nine months? Maybe just change the air at every annual, like an
oil change.
If I would have had the tubes before, I probably would not have added the
little air fill doors on the wheel pants. These tubes are some of the best
money I have ever spent.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
I too have been reading with great interest this thread about INITIALS. You are
never too old to learn. Never having done it nor realized it was a procedure
not necessarily reserved for the military (laughable in my Cessna 150) I have
been witnessing the practice for years and never put two and two together. You
see, here in St.Louis, the Air National Guard is based and routinely flies out
of Lambert Field. From the airport observation area across Lindbergh Boulevard,
I have witnessed on countless occasions a tight formation flight of of 3 or
4 F-15's returning from a training flight at relatively high speed and smartly
breaking right to a downwind, distance between planes ever increasing to maintain
equal spacing , deploying the speed brakes, gear, slowing waaaay down in
the process, blending base to final in one smooth 180 arc and landing on 12R
one after another in perfect unison. This all the while as busy airline traffic
is (was) coming and going with no noticeable disruption
of traffic. I've seen the whole sequence happen even with a distant airliner on
a long final sharing the same runway. Makes perfect sense. I'll sure be happy
when I have an airplane worthy of the procedure!
Rick Galati RV-6A FWF
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
Larry, Larry, Larry,
Change the air at every annual!!?
Ain't yah never herd of, "if it ain't broke don't fix er".
If you got air in them tires what don't leak out, then I'm sayin don't be
lettin any of it out no-how!
Jim in still smoking Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net>
Subject: RV-List: May 2003
>
> Listers:
>
> Until this may, I needed to add air to my tires every 2 to 3 weeks.
> Definite pain for a non-tinker oriented RVer such as myself.
>
> When I changed the tires at the annual in May this year, I went to
Michelin
> Air-Stop tubes. Since that time I have not needed to add air. I haven't
> checked the pressure since I don't want to lose air, but it pulls out of
the
> hangar just fine.
>
> Now I'm getting jazzed. Can I make it until LOE 3? Can I make it six
> months? Nine months? Maybe just change the air at every annual, like an
> oil change.
>
> If I would have had the tubes before, I probably would not have added the
> little air fill doors on the wheel pants. These tubes are some of the
best
> money I have ever spent.
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
>
> RV-6 N441LP Flying
> http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ronschreck99(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Good deal on an engine? |
Hi listers,
I have a very good friend who was once building a HyperBipe but gave up on
the project after buying almost everything he has to complete the airplane. He
has offered to sell me the engine and propeller but neither of us knows what
either are worth. Here is what I know about each: The engine is an IO360-B1E,
rated at 180 HP at 2700 RPM. It was overhauled a few years ago and I know it
got new rings, bearings and valves. However the engine has been sitting on his
hangar floor ever since and the plug holes and accessory holes have been open
to the air all that time. I see a slight surface rust on some of the
accessory gears but the valves and cylinders are bright and shinny. I suppose
they
have a good coating of lubricant that is doing it's job. Two bendix mags of
unknown condition are included. They are all in one piece and include all the
plug wires. They both turn freely. A new Airflow Performance fuel injector is
included as well as a used Prestolite starter and a used alternator of
unknown make.
The prop is a Hartzell CS 2-blade that was rebuilt after a prop strike
incident. The blades were bent and although the rebuild was done by a reputable
propellor shop they could not yellow tag it because the bent tips were bent
past the allowable angle to meet certification standards. It is legal to use on
an experimental aircraft. I haven't seen the prop governor but I assume
there is one somewhere in the hangar. I'll keep looking.
If the engine is suitable in other respects I assume that the rear-facing
injection can be remedied with a new sump. Given the information above I
welcome the list's comments on estimating the value of the engine and prop and
the
cost of replacing the sump. Have at it guys. Thanks for your help.
Ron Schreck
RV-8
Gold Hill Airpark, NC
PS: Anyone interested in a HyperBipe?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
>
> Listers:
>
> Until this may, I needed to add air to my tires every 2 to 3 weeks.
> Definite pain for a non-tinker oriented RVer such as myself.
>
> When I changed the tires at the annual in May this year, I went to
Michelin
> Air-Stop tubes. Since that time I have not needed to add air. I haven't
> checked the pressure since I don't want to lose air, but it pulls out of
the
> hangar just fine.
>
> Now I'm getting jazzed. Can I make it until LOE 3? Can I make it six
> months? Nine months? Maybe just change the air at every annual, like an
> oil change.
>
> If I would have had the tubes before, I probably would not have added the
> little air fill doors on the wheel pants. These tubes are some of the
best
> money I have ever spent.
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
>
Thanks for the review on the Air-Stop tubes, Larry. I also find that having
to haul an air tank out to the hangar ever couple of weeks to top off the
tires is bothersome. I looked at the Air-Stop tubes, but decided at their
price I would wait until I found some evidence that the were worth their
money.
Thanks again, let us know 3 month, 6 months from now how they are doing.
Ed Anderson
N494BW RV-6A Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Good deal on an engine? |
----- Original Message -----
From: <Ronschreck99(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Good deal on an engine?
>
> Hi listers,
>
> I have a very good friend who was once building a HyperBipe but gave up on
> the project after buying almost everything he has to complete the
airplane. He
> has offered to sell me the
.... SNIP
on estimating the value of the engine and prop and the
> cost of replacing the sump. Have at it guys. Thanks for your help.
>
> Ron Schreck
> RV-8
> Gold Hill Airpark, NC
>
> PS: Anyone interested in a HyperBipe?
>
Ron, is this Marshall Seymour's HyperBipe Project? I stopped and visited
with Marshall and Glen? several years ago and Marshall showed me his
HyperBipe project, I must say I was impressed. I presume that Glen has
finished his RV? I fly a rotary powered RV-6 and occassionally fly over
Gold Hill airpark, guess I should stop by for another visit and see your
RV-8 project.
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: to Danny Melnik |
vft(at)aol.com
Danny
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Ed Anderson wrote:
>
>
> >
> > Listers:
> >
> > Until this may, I needed to add air to my tires every 2 to 3 weeks.
> > Definite pain for a non-tinker oriented RVer such as myself.
> >
> > When I changed the tires at the annual in May this year, I went to
> Michelin
> > Air-Stop tubes. Since that time I have not needed to add air. I haven't
> > checked the pressure since I don't want to lose air, but it pulls out of
> the
> > hangar just fine.
> >
> > Now I'm getting jazzed. Can I make it until LOE 3? Can I make it six
> > months? Nine months? Maybe just change the air at every annual, like an
> > oil change.
> >
> > If I would have had the tubes before, I probably would not have added the
> > little air fill doors on the wheel pants. These tubes are some of the
> best
> > money I have ever spent.
> >
> > Larry Pardue
> > Carlsbad, NM
> >
>
> Thanks for the review on the Air-Stop tubes, Larry. I also find that having
> to haul an air tank out to the hangar ever couple of weeks to top off the
> tires is bothersome. I looked at the Air-Stop tubes, but decided at their
> price I would wait until I found some evidence that the were worth their
> money.
>
> Thanks again, let us know 3 month, 6 months from now how they are doing.
>
I have had the Air-Stop tubers for a couple of years, and they are the
real deal. I usually have to flip the tires a couple of times a year,
and that is the only time I add air. I air up the tires to about 35 lbs,
and they are still in the mid-twenties six months later.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Good deal on an engine? |
Ron -
Sounds like a good boat anchor to me... BTW, what was your friends name and
phone no?! ;)
Just kidding. I've been out of the engine market several years, but just
from what you describe, the package might be worth somewhere between $10 to
$20K. Sorry for the wide range, but there seem to be lots of variables. A
known prop strike, sitting unprotected with rust showing, not knowing who
did the previous work, what plane was it on before, got any log books, any
of the engine components yellow tagged when the previous work was done?
If I was the purchaser, I don't think I'd be able to hang it and fly. I'd
most certainly want to tear it down (prop included) due to the prop strike,
corrosion, questionable background, etc., driving the price down. Also,
that rear facing induction system sounds like it might work fine with the
"snorkel" (?) induction system. Eliminates the need for the lower cowl air
intake.
my 2 cents
Bryan Jones -8
Pearland, Texas
>I have a very good friend who was once building a HyperBipe but gave up on
>the project after buying almost everything he has to complete the airplane.
> He
>has offered to sell me the engine and propeller but neither of us knows
>what
>either are worth. Here is what I know about each: The engine is an
>IO360-B1E,
>rated at 180 HP at 2700 RPM. It was overhauled a few years ago and I know
>it
Fast, faster, fastest: Upgrade to Cable or DSL today!
https://broadband.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | My static system woes |
Fellow listers,
I have been getting my radio stack up and running - and in order to verify my transponder,
I need to test my static system. That's where the fun begins!
I can't even get the fitting on the back of the altimeter to hold without dropping
vacuum. I'm using the blue anidized AN fittings with aluminum tubing on the
instrument panel to a pair of bulkhead fittings (1 pitot and 1 static) then
aft to the rest of the system.
I started with just the altimeter as that instrument should be leak-free in order
to function correctly.
The archives have a reference to plumbers pipe dope for the plastic fittings -
but nothing for the aluminum AN fittings. I have also found the listings on acceptable
leakdown rates etc.
What I would really like to know is how the system is supposed to show and when
- during the testing process?! If my system is completely assembled (pitot/static
and VSI/ASI), I know that the VSI has a built in 'leak', the ASI uses static
for something (but I can't remember what it's impact is during testing).
I know that this info is somewhere out there as everyone that is flying should
have had this stuff checked......
Thanks,
Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Len Leggette" <len(at)jessicacharles.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Air-Stop tubes |
Where is the best place to buy these tubes ... I want to order TODAY !!!!!
Thanks !!
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensobro, NC N910LL
136 hrs
----- Original Message -----
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: RV-List: Air-Stop tubes
>
>
> Ed Anderson wrote:
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Listers:
> > >
> > > Until this may, I needed to add air to my tires every 2 to 3 weeks.
> > > Definite pain for a non-tinker oriented RVer such as myself.
> > >
> > > When I changed the tires at the annual in May this year, I went to
> > Michelin
> > > Air-Stop tubes. Since that time I have not needed to add air. I
haven't
> > > checked the pressure since I don't want to lose air, but it pulls out
of
> > the
> > > hangar just fine.
> > >
> > > Now I'm getting jazzed. Can I make it until LOE 3? Can I make it six
> > > months? Nine months? Maybe just change the air at every annual, like
an
> > > oil change.
> > >
> > > If I would have had the tubes before, I probably would not have added
the
> > > little air fill doors on the wheel pants. These tubes are some of the
> > best
> > > money I have ever spent.
> > >
> > > Larry Pardue
> > > Carlsbad, NM
> > >
> >
> > Thanks for the review on the Air-Stop tubes, Larry. I also find that
having
> > to haul an air tank out to the hangar ever couple of weeks to top off
the
> > tires is bothersome. I looked at the Air-Stop tubes, but decided at
their
> > price I would wait until I found some evidence that the were worth their
> > money.
> >
> > Thanks again, let us know 3 month, 6 months from now how they are doing.
> >
>
>
> I have had the Air-Stop tubers for a couple of years, and they are the
> real deal. I usually have to flip the tires a couple of times a year,
> and that is the only time I add air. I air up the tires to about 35 lbs,
> and they are still in the mid-twenties six months later.
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Air-Stop tubes |
>
>
>Where is the best place to buy these tubes ... I want to order TODAY !!!!!
>
>Thanks !!
>
>Len Leggette, RV-8A
>Greensobro, NC N910LL
>136 hrs
>
Len,
I just received a set from Spruce the other day. My fourth annual is due
this month and I'm going to install them. I'm tired of pumping up my tires
all the time! I was ordering other stuff, so I got the tubes as well. To
just order the tubes, I'd try Desser tire first. Might have better pricing.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Len Leggette" <len(at)jessicacharles.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Air-Stop tubes |
Brian:
I tried Dresser but they show some kind of "new age" leak proof tube but not
the Michelin Air Stop ???
Len
----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Denk <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Air-Stop tubes
>
>
> >
> >
> >Where is the best place to buy these tubes ... I want to order TODAY
!!!!!
> >
> >Thanks !!
> >
> >Len Leggette, RV-8A
> >Greensobro, NC N910LL
> >136 hrs
> >
>
> Len,
>
> I just received a set from Spruce the other day. My fourth annual is due
> this month and I'm going to install them. I'm tired of pumping up my
tires
> all the time! I was ordering other stuff, so I got the tubes as well. To
> just order the tubes, I'd try Desser tire first. Might have better
pricing.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Air-Stop tubes |
| From: | Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net> |
Len, check with Van's. I believe they carry a "slow leak" tube now.
> From: "Len Leggette" <len(at)jessicacharles.com>
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2003 10:47:15 -0400
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Air-Stop tubes
>
>
> Where is the best place to buy these tubes ... I want to order TODAY !!!!!
>
> Thanks !!
>
> Len Leggette, RV-8A
> Greensobro, NC N910LL
> 136 hrs
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Air-Stop tubes
>
>
>>
>>
>> Ed Anderson wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>> Listers:
>>>>
>>>> Until this may, I needed to add air to my tires every 2 to 3 weeks.
>>>> Definite pain for a non-tinker oriented RVer such as myself.
>>>>
>>>> When I changed the tires at the annual in May this year, I went to
>>> Michelin
>>>> Air-Stop tubes. Since that time I have not needed to add air. I
> haven't
>>>> checked the pressure since I don't want to lose air, but it pulls out
> of
>>> the
>>>> hangar just fine.
>>>>
>>>> Now I'm getting jazzed. Can I make it until LOE 3? Can I make it six
>>>> months? Nine months? Maybe just change the air at every annual, like
> an
>>>> oil change.
>>>>
>>>> If I would have had the tubes before, I probably would not have added
> the
>>>> little air fill doors on the wheel pants. These tubes are some of the
>>> best
>>>> money I have ever spent.
>>>>
>>>> Larry Pardue
>>>> Carlsbad, NM
>>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks for the review on the Air-Stop tubes, Larry. I also find that
> having
>>> to haul an air tank out to the hangar ever couple of weeks to top off
> the
>>> tires is bothersome. I looked at the Air-Stop tubes, but decided at
> their
>>> price I would wait until I found some evidence that the were worth their
>>> money.
>>>
>>> Thanks again, let us know 3 month, 6 months from now how they are doing.
>>>
>>
>>
>> I have had the Air-Stop tubers for a couple of years, and they are the
>> real deal. I usually have to flip the tires a couple of times a year,
>> and that is the only time I add air. I air up the tires to about 35 lbs,
>> and they are still in the mid-twenties six months later.
>>
>> Sam Buchanan
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Len Leggette" <len(at)jessicacharles.com> |
| Subject: | Michelin Airstop Tubes |
List:
This may be a first .... AC$ is actually cheaper than someone !!!!! $5 per tube
less than Dresser.
Len Leggette RV-8A
Greensboro, NC N910LL
136 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | SIRS Navigator Compass Adjustment Tool |
I've torn my shop apart but cannot find the adjustment tool for my SIRS
Navigator compass. It is a special plastic tool that fits over a small
triangle in the compass to allow adjusting the compass. I looked on their
web site and I can buy one for $7.00, but Van's doesn't carry it. Just
wondering if anyone on the list has a spare laying around?
Doug Medema
RV-6A N276DM almost ready for inspection!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Air-Stop tubes |
Len Leggette wrote:
>
>
> Brian:
>
> I tried Dresser but they show some kind of "new age" leak proof tube but not
> the Michelin Air Stop ???
Here is the link at Desser for the Air-Stops:
http://shop.desser.com/iwwida.pvx?;item?item_no=TU%20500-5%20MN%20%20%20%201&source=sc
(be sure you paste the entire link to one line)
Sam Buchanan
=========================
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Air-Stop tubes |
FWIW
I have been told and I don't know if it is true... that aircraft tires leak
more than regular tires because they have to use a softer rubber compound to
meet the low temp performance on the TSO.
I have also been told, and I don't know if it is true.... that nitrogen
leaks slower than air because N2 molecules are larger than air molecules. I
know that air is 80 some percent Nitrogen, but if the 17% O2 leaked out that
would lower the pressure....
Anybody know? Any trivial pursuit players out there????
Tailwinds,
Doug
----- Original Message -----
From: "Len Leggette" <len(at)jessicacharles.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Air-Stop tubes
>
> Brian:
>
> I tried Dresser but they show some kind of "new age" leak proof tube but
not
> the Michelin Air Stop ???
>
> Len
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Brian Denk <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Air-Stop tubes
>
>
> >
> >
> > >
> > >
> > >Where is the best place to buy these tubes ... I want to order TODAY
> !!!!!
> > >
> > >Thanks !!
> > >
> > >Len Leggette, RV-8A
> > >Greensobro, NC N910LL
> > >136 hrs
> > >
> >
> > Len,
> >
> > I just received a set from Spruce the other day. My fourth annual is
due
> > this month and I'm going to install them. I'm tired of pumping up my
> tires
> > all the time! I was ordering other stuff, so I got the tubes as well.
To
> > just order the tubes, I'd try Desser tire first. Might have better
> pricing.
> >
> > Brian Denk
> > RV8 N94BD
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Air-Stop tubes |
I can't answer as to the relative size of the molecules, But I have always
been told that the tube must retain its flexibility at 40 below. Natural
rubber has been the only tube material that has been able to do this. Now I
guess they have compounded a synthetic that meets this FAA requirement.
Cy Galley - Bellanca Champion Club
Newsletter Editor & EAA TC
www.bellanca-championclub.com
Actively supporting Aeroncas every day
Quarterly newsletters on time
Reasonable document reprints
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Air-Stop tubes
>
> FWIW
> I have been told and I don't know if it is true... that aircraft tires
leak
> more than regular tires because they have to use a softer rubber compound
to
> meet the low temp performance on the TSO.
>
> I have also been told, and I don't know if it is true.... that nitrogen
> leaks slower than air because N2 molecules are larger than air molecules.
I
> know that air is 80 some percent Nitrogen, but if the 17% O2 leaked out
that
> would lower the pressure....
>
> Anybody know? Any trivial pursuit players out there????
>
> Tailwinds,
> Doug
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Len Leggette" <len(at)jessicacharles.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Air-Stop tubes
>
>
> >
> > Brian:
> >
> > I tried Dresser but they show some kind of "new age" leak proof tube but
> not
> > the Michelin Air Stop ???
> >
> > Len
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Brian Denk <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
> > To:
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Air-Stop tubes
> >
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >Where is the best place to buy these tubes ... I want to order TODAY
> > !!!!!
> > > >
> > > >Thanks !!
> > > >
> > > >Len Leggette, RV-8A
> > > >Greensobro, NC N910LL
> > > >136 hrs
> > > >
> > >
> > > Len,
> > >
> > > I just received a set from Spruce the other day. My fourth annual is
> due
> > > this month and I'm going to install them. I'm tired of pumping up my
> > tires
> > > all the time! I was ordering other stuff, so I got the tubes as well.
> To
> > > just order the tubes, I'd try Desser tire first. Might have better
> > pricing.
> > >
> > > Brian Denk
> > > RV8 N94BD
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Air-Stop tubes |
Doug and all,
I don't play a chemist on TV but I do teach chemistry at the local junior
college.
Nitrogen molecule is smaller than the Oxygen molecule. Both are diatomic,
which means that they have two atoms in the natural molecule. I would think
that Nitrogen would escape first if size was the only function. The most
other junk in the air have more than two atoms, water-H two O, has three;
carbon dioxide- C O two, has three; etc, etc and therefore are bigger yet.
There are some trace amount of other stuff but I don't think there is enough
to make a difference.
Now to answers Doug's question. The total pressure of a enclosed gas
system, the inside of a inner tube - for example, is the sum of the partial
pressures of all the components. So if one of the components is able to
leak out, the pressure would go down. So, yes the pressure would go down if
either Nitrogen or Oxygen was able to leak out.
Tom Gummo
Part Time Instructor of Chem 100 at Victor Valley Community College
Outstanding Graduate in Chemistry at Cal Poly - Pomona, 1970
Retired F-4G Fighter Pilot
Instructor Pilot for Wild Weasels
Pres EAA Local Chapter 768 - Apple Valley Airport (soon to be term limited
out of a job) :-)
Air Boss of the Apple Valley Air Fair 2002 and 2003
NO MATTER WHAT I HAVE DONE IN LIFE, DOUG GETS TO FLY ALL TYPE OF WW-II
AIRCRAFT, SO I HAVE TO JUST KEEP ON HATING HIM.
P.S. - Doug, there is always a Rocket Ride waiting for you if you get out
this way.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Air-Stop tubes
>
> FWIW
> I have been told and I don't know if it is true... that aircraft tires
leak
> more than regular tires because they have to use a softer rubber compound
to
> meet the low temp performance on the TSO.
>
> I have also been told, and I don't know if it is true.... that nitrogen
> leaks slower than air because N2 molecules are larger than air molecules.
I
> know that air is 80 some percent Nitrogen, but if the 17% O2 leaked out
that
> would lower the pressure....
>
> Anybody know? Any trivial pursuit players out there????
>
> Tailwinds,
> Doug
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Len Leggette" <len(at)jessicacharles.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Air-Stop tubes
>
>
> >
> > Brian:
> >
> > I tried Dresser but they show some kind of "new age" leak proof tube but
> not
> > the Michelin Air Stop ???
> >
> > Len
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Brian Denk <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
> > To:
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Air-Stop tubes
> >
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >Where is the best place to buy these tubes ... I want to order TODAY
> > !!!!!
> > > >
> > > >Thanks !!
> > > >
> > > >Len Leggette, RV-8A
> > > >Greensobro, NC N910LL
> > > >136 hrs
> > > >
> > >
> > > Len,
> > >
> > > I just received a set from Spruce the other day. My fourth annual is
> due
> > > this month and I'm going to install them. I'm tired of pumping up my
> > tires
> > > all the time! I was ordering other stuff, so I got the tubes as well.
> To
> > > just order the tubes, I'd try Desser tire first. Might have better
> > pricing.
> > >
> > > Brian Denk
> > > RV8 N94BD
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bartrim, Todd" <sbartrim(at)mail.canfor.ca> |
"'rv9-list(at)matronics.com'" ,
"'wing(at)vansairforce.org'"
| Subject: | First flight of C-FSTB |
I'm very pleased to announce that RV-9endurance, kit # 90113, has
now become an airplane. Power is supplied by a Turbocharged 13B Mazda rotary
engine, with a 76" 3-blade IVO Magnum with electronic constant speed
governor. It was built from a standard kit and engine was rebuilt myself
from a junkyard engine. Everything was done myself, including paint &
upholstery. I'm extremely pleased with and proud of the results.
The plane fly's exactly as I remembered from my demo flight 3 years
ago. Very easy to fly. The engine is very smooth & quiet. So far I've not
used any boost at all as we've been very conservative with it.
As I'm a student pilot, I now am looking forward to finishing my
training in my own plane. Test pilot for the first 3 flights is an
experienced commercial bush pilot, however as he was unfamiliar with the
rotary engine (but very interested in it), I was along as flight engineer.
This worked very well as all he had to do was fly the plane. All other
duties were my responsibility.
As my test pilot/instructor has had to return to his regular flying
job, testing is on hold for a week. I'm still in the "Holy ****, I can't
believe it's flying" phase, so next flights will begin to put the plane
through it's paces.
As every first flight report before has stated, It really is worth
all the sacrifices and hard work, so keep on pounding! I found the building
process to be tremendously enjoyable, particularly the FWF development of an
alternative engine, however it sure is pretty damn cool to be flying it now!
:-)
Thanks to the FlyRotary group and the AeroElectric list for all the
knowledge that is freely shared.
The adventure continues......
S. Todd Bartrim
Turbo 13B
RX-9endurance
C-FSTB
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
"Imagination is more important than knowledge"
-Albert Einstein
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Cimino" <jcimino(at)echoes.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Air-Stop tubes |
I put Air-Stop tubes in when I changed my tires in January. I think I added
two pounds during my annual in June. I always had to add air to the old
tubes. I agree...the best money I've ever spent.
Jim
James Cimino
RV-8 SN 80039
100+ Hours
570-842-4057
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: RV-List: Air-Stop tubes
>
>
> Ed Anderson wrote:
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Listers:
> > >
> > > Until this may, I needed to add air to my tires every 2 to 3 weeks.
> > > Definite pain for a non-tinker oriented RVer such as myself.
> > >
> > > When I changed the tires at the annual in May this year, I went to
> > Michelin
> > > Air-Stop tubes. Since that time I have not needed to add air. I
haven't
> > > checked the pressure since I don't want to lose air, but it pulls out
of
> > the
> > > hangar just fine.
> > >
> > > Now I'm getting jazzed. Can I make it until LOE 3? Can I make it six
> > > months? Nine months? Maybe just change the air at every annual, like
an
> > > oil change.
> > >
> > > If I would have had the tubes before, I probably would not have added
the
> > > little air fill doors on the wheel pants. These tubes are some of the
> > best
> > > money I have ever spent.
> > >
> > > Larry Pardue
> > > Carlsbad, NM
> > >
> >
> > Thanks for the review on the Air-Stop tubes, Larry. I also find that
having
> > to haul an air tank out to the hangar ever couple of weeks to top off
the
> > tires is bothersome. I looked at the Air-Stop tubes, but decided at
their
> > price I would wait until I found some evidence that the were worth their
> > money.
> >
> > Thanks again, let us know 3 month, 6 months from now how they are doing.
> >
>
>
> I have had the Air-Stop tubers for a couple of years, and they are the
> real deal. I usually have to flip the tires a couple of times a year,
> and that is the only time I add air. I air up the tires to about 35 lbs,
> and they are still in the mid-twenties six months later.
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Avery or Cleveland? |
I have the Cleaveland 3/32" dimple die which I bought and an Avery die which
I won in a door prize. Of the two I prefer the Cleaveland as its made of
stainless steel and still has a good polish after 8 years whereas the Avery
is now dull. But the Cleaveland one was (is?) more expensive. The 1/8" die
is an Avery and it worked fine. All the other dies I made myself on my lathe
and therefore cannot comment further.
Cheers!!--Henry Hore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
> I have also been told, and I don't know if it is true....
> that nitrogen leaks slower than air because N2 molecules are
> larger than air molecules. I know that air is 80 some
> percent Nitrogen, but if the 17% O2 leaked out that would
> lower the pressure....
>
> Anybody know? Any trivial pursuit players out there????
Yeah, I could just imagine: "Top the tanks with 100LL and put a little
more gaseous plutonium in the mains"
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 369 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson updated!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Michelin Airstop Tubes now RV10 interiors |
>
>Brian:
>
>Actually I am going into the RV Upholstery business. I have a new website
>and will be posting pictures and options very soon. I have built several
>sets to date, 52 leathers colors to choose from and about 70 fabrics. The
>seats for RVs are pretty easy when you are use to manufacturing high end
>upholstery. I'll let you and the list know when my site is up.
>
>Len
Great! I look forward to seeing what you may come up with for the -10. I
can see some very elaborate interiors showing up in these a/c in the near
future. For me, my mission is comfort...and that means noise reduction and
a comfy ride. Gotta figure out how to mount a DVD player in the roof for
Skyler to watch on the long trips!
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Avery or Cleveland? |
I have several dimple die sets from Cleveland that look very good after 12
years and make a very good dimple. They are made from stainless steel. Last week
I borrowed a #8 screw die set from an RV8 builder/neighbor that is so
corroded I don't think I will use it. He says it is only a couple years old. Have
been very pleased with everything purchased from Cleveland.
Dale Ensing
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leslye Doyle" <Skyeyes(at)satx.rr.com> |
This is just what I'm looking for. Please let Matt know. I'm also still
receiving tons of email regarding RV topics. I would just like to get
the pics only.
Thanks, Leslye
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of VFT(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: to Danny Melnik
vft(at)aol.com
Danny
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "willfly" <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Does anyone have any experience with the hand held SP-200 NAV/COM from Sporty's?
Looks like it may do the same job as the ICOM but with a LOC function.
Thanks
Steve Glasgow
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ronschreck99(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Good deal on an engine? |
In a message dated 9/9/2003 3:02:37 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
>
> Ron -
>
> Sounds like a good boat anchor to me... BTW, what was your friends name
and
>
> phone no?! ;)
>
> Just kidding. I've been out of the engine market several years, but just
> from what you describe, the package might be worth somewhere between $10
to
> $20K. Sorry for the wide range, but there seem to be lots of variables.
A
> known prop strike, sitting unprotected with rust showing, not knowing who
> did the previous work, what plane was it on before, got any log books, any
> of the engine components yellow tagged when the previous work was done?
>
> If I was the purchaser, I don't think I'd be able to hang it and fly. I'd
> most certainly want to tear it down (prop included) due to the prop
strike,
> corrosion, questionable background, etc., driving the price down. Also,
> that rear facing induction system sounds like it might work fine with the
> "snorkel" (?) induction system. Eliminates the need for the lower cowl
air
> intake.
>
> my 2 cents
>
> Bryan Jones -8
> Pearland, Texas
>
> >I have a very good friend who was once building a HyperBipe but gave up on
> >the project after buying almost everything he has to complete the
airplane.
>
> > He
> >has offered to sell me the engine and propeller but neither of us knows
> >what
> >either are worth. Here is what I know about each: The engine is an
> >IO360-B1E,
> >rated at 180 HP at 2700 RPM. It was overhauled a few years ago and I
know
> >it
>
Actually I know a lot about the engine. It came to an engine overhaul shop
in pieces and they rebuilt it with a reconditioned crank to certified specs.
The log book and yellow tags are right here. The prop was overhauled by a
reputable shop as well. My only concern is possible damage to the engine due to
sitting open (in the hangar) for 5 years. It has been covered by a tarp but
the plug holes and accessory holes are open. The rear sump has been dealt with
before according to the archives. Anyone know the cost to swap it with a
front induction? Or, anyone have one to trade?
Thanks.
Ron Schreck
RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Good deal on an engine? |
Hi Ron,
Just as a comparasion, the engine I fly behind is an AEIO-360 (180)hp that
has 800TTSNEW, and I paid $9500.00 for it last year. A new Superior/ECI 360
will be somewhere between $15-22K.
in the end, it's worth what someone will pay for it....if it were me, I'd
probably ask somewhere between $10-12K for it. I think it's going to be
hard to get a bunch more, just because of the fact that it has been sitting
"un-pickled" and "open" for a period of time, and depending on the
environment, could have some spotty corrosion in the cylinders (if they are
steel), and possibly on the crank as well.
At the very least, I would recommend whoever buys it to do a cursory
tear-down inspection just to look it over. The engine could be a great
deal, and I wouldn't hesitate to use it, just make sure everything looks
good. Other than that, it's just a bunch of people's opinions!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
http://www.steinair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Ronschreck99(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Re: Good deal on an engine?
Actually I know a lot about the engine. It came to an engine overhaul shop
in pieces and they rebuilt it with a reconditioned crank to certified specs.
The log book and yellow tags are right here. The prop was overhauled by a
reputable shop as well. My only concern is possible damage to the engine
due to
sitting open (in the hangar) for 5 years. It has been covered by a tarp but
the plug holes and accessory holes are open. The rear sump has been dealt
with
before according to the archives. Anyone know the cost to swap it with a
front induction? Or, anyone have one to trade?
Thanks.
Ron Schreck
RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First flight of C-FSTB |
Todd,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!!!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "Bartrim, Todd" <sbartrim(at)mail.canfor.ca>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "'rv-list(at)matronics.com'" ,
>"'rv9-list(at)matronics.com'" ,
>"'wing(at)vansairforce.org'"
>Subject: RV-List: First flight of C-FSTB
>Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2003 14:06:14 -0700
>
>
> I'm very pleased to announce that RV-9endurance, kit # 90113, has
>now become an airplane. Power is supplied by a Turbocharged 13B Mazda
>rotary
>engine, with a 76" 3-blade IVO Magnum with electronic constant speed
>governor. It was built from a standard kit and engine was rebuilt myself
>from a junkyard engine. Everything was done myself, including paint &
>upholstery. I'm extremely pleased with and proud of the results.
> The plane fly's exactly as I remembered from my demo flight 3
>years
>ago. Very easy to fly. The engine is very smooth & quiet. So far I've not
>used any boost at all as we've been very conservative with it.
> As I'm a student pilot, I now am looking forward to finishing my
>training in my own plane. Test pilot for the first 3 flights is an
>experienced commercial bush pilot, however as he was unfamiliar with the
>rotary engine (but very interested in it), I was along as flight engineer.
>This worked very well as all he had to do was fly the plane. All other
>duties were my responsibility.
> As my test pilot/instructor has had to return to his regular
>flying
>job, testing is on hold for a week. I'm still in the "Holy ****, I can't
>believe it's flying" phase, so next flights will begin to put the plane
>through it's paces.
> As every first flight report before has stated, It really is worth
>all the sacrifices and hard work, so keep on pounding! I found the
>building
>process to be tremendously enjoyable, particularly the FWF development of
>an
>alternative engine, however it sure is pretty damn cool to be flying it
>now!
>:-)
> Thanks to the FlyRotary group and the AeroElectric list for all
>the
>knowledge that is freely shared.
>
>The adventure continues......
>
>S. Todd Bartrim
>Turbo 13B
>RX-9endurance
>C-FSTB
>http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
>
> "Imagination is more important than knowledge"
> -Albert Einstein
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AndrewTR30(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Michelin Airstop Tubes now RV10 interiors |
In the new products section of the current Kitplanes, there is a piece about a
combo cd/mp3/dvd player from PS Engineering. With a little fiberglass work I'm
sure you could install an overhead lcd screen for rear passengers or possibly
individual screens in the back of the headrests.
Andrew Rayhill
RV-10
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Avery or Cleveland? |
Both top quality, a pleasure to do business with and both stand behind their
products 100% in my experience. I have never been disappointed with anything
I have purchased from either of them. Unfortunately I can't say that about
some of the other tool suppliers. FWIW I'd consider the new style Cleveland
hand squeezer if I was starting from scratch, but then my Avery aqueezer has
worked perfectly well for me so far. In the long run you'll most likely end up
buying from both of them.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, firewall forward
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frederick Oldenburg <foldenburg(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Avery or Cleveland |
Heads: Avery
Tails: Cleveland
Heads it is! (Just Kidding) I did order the Avery kit today though. Thanks to all
for their input!
Fred Oldenburg
RV-7A - Empennage Kit Ordered
http://rv.oldsack.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Dynon Magnetometer Calibration Question |
I have question about calibrating the Dynon External Magnetometer. I noticed
the magnetometer was pitch sensitive (i.e. changes the heading based on pitch
angle). I have a tail dragger, so it would make sense to calibrate the
magnetometer with the tail up in flight position.
I called Dynon and asked if I should raise the tail to in flight position for
the calibration process and they said it was not necessary. I did not
question them any further, but the more I think about it, I don't understand why.
The magnetometer clearly does not know it is in a tail dragger or a nose
dragger, therefore I would think it would make a difference. Or does it have
something to do with the relation of the head unit to the magnetometer, and as
long
as they are at the same angle, it does not matter. But after calibration if
you lift the tail, the heading does change.
Clearly, I'm confused. Anyone else have any ideas or experience in this
area? I was hoping to calibrate tomorrow. Thanks!
Mike Kraus
N223RV RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Avery or Cleveland? |
Flip a coin. They both are great. There are a few things that each one
carries that are unique, so you will probably order some from one and some
from the other. People say that Cleveland's dimple dies are better, but I
don't know if that is substantiated. I bought Cleveland tools for the tool
kit, but spent my fair share of money with Avery. Either one is a great
bet.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Sticking Tailwheel Swivel |
I couldn't find any info in the archives on this one, so here goes:
I have about 50 hours total on my RV-6 so far, and I find that my tailwheel
pivot point (full swivel) tends to start sticking every 10-15 hours or so. I
can still kick it free so it isn't a major hazard when it starts to stick,
but it's a sure sign that I need to grease it again. I'm using standard
automotive wheel bearing grease.
To make things more inconvenient, I find the grease fitting totally useless.
What happens is that grease will fill up and begin to leak out under the top
washer, but nothing gets to the bottom bearing surface, where I need it. The
only solution is to disassemble the swivel and manually grease 'er up.
I can live with this, but is this normal procedure for you other tailwheel
drivers? I operate off of grass but the tailwheel area generally stays
pretty clean, although it does get slightly mucky after a rain. Did I leave
out a washer or something? I don't recall having one for this assembly.
Comments appreciated.
Curt
RV-6, 50 hours. Took up my first passenger last night. Oh man, this is fun.
If I'm not flying I'm thinking about the next flight. Help me, I'm addicted
and my gas bills are out of control! I'm exhausted from getting up at 5:00
AM every day to go flying before work!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon Magnetometer Calibration Question |
I believe it is because the magnetometer provides a correction signal
for the system build into the main unit, That's why the main unit AND
the magnetometer have to be installed within a few tenth's of a degree
axis angle in all 3 planes.
if this holds true, then it shouldn't matter if you are propped up or
sitting down on the tailwheel as the relative angle between the main
unit and the magnetometer unit does not change.
Just thinking out loud..........
Gert
N223RV(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I have question about calibrating the Dynon External Magnetometer. I noticed
> the magnetometer was pitch sensitive (i.e. changes the heading based on pitch
> angle). I have a tail dragger, so it would make sense to calibrate the
> magnetometer with the tail up in flight position.
>
> I called Dynon and asked if I should raise the tail to in flight position for
> the calibration process and they said it was not necessary. I did not
> question them any further, but the more I think about it, I don't understand
why.
> The magnetometer clearly does not know it is in a tail dragger or a nose
> dragger, therefore I would think it would make a difference. Or does it have
> something to do with the relation of the head unit to the magnetometer, and as
long
> as they are at the same angle, it does not matter. But after calibration if
> you lift the tail, the heading does change.
>
> Clearly, I'm confused. Anyone else have any ideas or experience in this
> area? I was hoping to calibrate tomorrow. Thanks!
> Mike Kraus
> N223RV RV-4
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Reese" <waynereese(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | Avery or Cleveland? |
I really like Avery too, but I did have one small problem I was
disappointed that Avery couldn't help me with. The chuck key on my
Sioux did not fit right. It would slip then the bits would always slip.
When I called they acted like this was really a weird problem and I
ended up finding a chuck in and old tool box and the problem was gone.
I have and will buy from them again.
Wayne
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Besing
Subject: Re: RV-List: Avery or Cleveland?
Flip a coin. They both are great. There are a few things that each one
carries that are unique, so you will probably order some from one and
some
from the other. People say that Cleveland's dimple dies are better, but
I
don't know if that is substantiated. I bought Cleveland tools for the
tool
kit, but spent my fair share of money with Avery. Either one is a great
bet.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Dynon Magnetometer Calibration Question |
I think as long as it is in the same attitude as the D10 it doesn't
matter.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
2003 - The year of flight!
> -----Original Message-----
> From: N223RV(at)aol.com [mailto:N223RV(at)aol.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2003 9:20 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Dynon Magnetometer Calibration Question
>
>
>
> I have question about calibrating the Dynon External
> Magnetometer. I noticed
> the magnetometer was pitch sensitive (i.e. changes the
> heading based on pitch
> angle). I have a tail dragger, so it would make sense to
> calibrate the
> magnetometer with the tail up in flight position.
>
> I called Dynon and asked if I should raise the tail to in
> flight position for
> the calibration process and they said it was not necessary.
> I did not
> question them any further, but the more I think about it, I
> don't understand why.
> The magnetometer clearly does not know it is in a tail
> dragger or a nose
> dragger, therefore I would think it would make a difference.
> Or does it have
> something to do with the relation of the head unit to the
> magnetometer, and as long
> as they are at the same angle, it does not matter. But after
> calibration if
> you lift the tail, the heading does change.
>
> Clearly, I'm confused. Anyone else have any ideas or
> experience in this
> area? I was hoping to calibrate tomorrow. Thanks!
> Mike Kraus
> N223RV RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Jason" <prestige(at)sover.net> |
| Subject: | PPG/Dupont web sites |
I am in the aircraft refinishing business and was interested in the comments Re:
PPP/Dupont web sites. I have had the occasion to do business with both paint
suppliers and my feelings are the same for both.
These Goliath's, in the paint business, are not interested in the aviation segment
of the refinishing business, there primary focus is to the automotive refinishers
for obvious reasons.
There experience with refinishing aircraft is limited, at best. Request for information
results in a reply from people that have no idea how to deal with the
painting of aluminum. A typical response is "Well I once painted an aluminum
fire truck".
There are mfg.'s who do cater to aircraft painting "Jet-Glo" by Sherwin Williams,"
Randolph Products"," PRC Desoto", a PPG subsidiary, "AlumaGrip".To name a
few. However I find that at least some of these focus on larger aircraft, again
for obvious reasons.
Dick Jason
prestige(at)sover.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Burks <tburks2(at)knology.net> |
| Subject: | Navaid head for sale |
I am posting this for a friend who is not on the list. If interested
please contact him directly.
Unused Navaid head for sale. $475. Contact Ed Seigler at
ed.seigler(at)tbe.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon Magnetometer Calibration Question |
The Dynon has numerous errors when below ~30 kts pitot pressure. The unit
may not fully understand that you are changing pitch when you simply raise
the tail without pitot information.
How much does the heading change between taildown and tail up?
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
>
> I have question about calibrating the Dynon External Magnetometer. I
noticed
> the magnetometer was pitch sensitive (i.e. changes the heading based on
pitch
> angle). I have a tail dragger, so it would make sense to calibrate the
> magnetometer with the tail up in flight position.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Dynon Magnetometer Calibration Question |
Does that mean you've got to give it the 8 degree panel tilt?
Ed Holyoke
6 QB
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gert
> Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2003 8:48 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon Magnetometer Calibration Question
>
>
> I believe it is because the magnetometer provides a correction signal
> for the system build into the main unit, That's why the main unit AND
> the magnetometer have to be installed within a few tenth's of a degree
> axis angle in all 3 planes.
>
> if this holds true, then it shouldn't matter if you are propped up or
> sitting down on the tailwheel as the relative angle between the main
> unit and the magnetometer unit does not change.
>
>
> Just thinking out loud..........
>
>
> Gert
> N223RV(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> >
> > I have question about calibrating the Dynon External Magnetometer.
I
> noticed
> > the magnetometer was pitch sensitive (i.e. changes the heading based
on
> pitch
> > angle). I have a tail dragger, so it would make sense to calibrate
the
> > magnetometer with the tail up in flight position.
> >
> > I called Dynon and asked if I should raise the tail to in flight
> position for
> > the calibration process and they said it was not necessary. I did
not
> > question them any further, but the more I think about it, I don't
> understand why.
> > The magnetometer clearly does not know it is in a tail dragger or a
nose
> > dragger, therefore I would think it would make a difference. Or
does it
> have
> > something to do with the relation of the head unit to the
magnetometer,
> and as long
> > as they are at the same angle, it does not matter. But after
> calibration if
> > you lift the tail, the heading does change.
> >
> > Clearly, I'm confused. Anyone else have any ideas or experience in
this
> > area? I was hoping to calibrate tomorrow. Thanks!
> > Mike Kraus
> > N223RV RV-4
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BBreckenridge(at)att.net |
| Subject: | Empennage Ship Date |
Ok all you "10" builders - I talked to Van's Tuesday around noonish and here's
the latest:
They will be mailing out an information packet later this week or early next.
The first 40 tail
kits will be ready to go around the 22nd of this month. At this point, they're
planning on filling
40 kits per month until the initial order (of a bit over a 100 kits) is taken care
of.
Bruce
#18
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
I would expect that the issue isn't about molecular size, as the difference
between the two ain't much. If the issue exists its more a function of
permeability of the membrane, much like your lungs are permeable to both O2
and N2, but more so with O2.
Avagadro's Law states that all gas molucules not involved in a chemical
reaction will demand the same volume of space per molecule at equal
temps/pressures, therefore appropriately contributing their portion of
partial pressure. This should include while they are being crammed through a
leak. It doesn't matter what type of gas molecule it is.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: flying into reno? |
Carson City
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | QB fuse: What else to order with? |
Well, the day has arrived. Van's says the fuse is ready to ship. I meant to
put together a list of items to order with the fuse like the ELT but it
slipped my mind until now.
Anyone have a list of items that I might as well get in this shipment?
BTW, what are most folks using for ELTs? There was a brand I wrote down but
now can't find the info. Seems there was one relatively low cost brand most
folks were happy to use but I can't remember it. It might be the one Van's
sells.
thanks,
lucky
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garry Legare <versadek(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Dual com switching |
Electronic Gurus,
I'm redoing my panel this winter and installing dual coms amongst other
things. I already have a good intercom and don't need marker beacon
display. Does anybody know of a small, com only audio panel type set up.
Also is there any good way of using a single antenna with the two coms.
On my Q2 (way back in 1980) I used a multi-pole switch. Surely something
else is available today.
Appreciate any help.
Electronically challenged.
"Casper"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Imported Altimeter |
| From: | Bruce Green <mailindex(at)juno.com> |
The altimeter in my Eagle is stuck on 3,000 feet and it has already been
repaired several times, so my intent is to replace it with a new one. It
appears that new ones are $500 for US made and $200 for imported. I
don't fly anything close to IFR, so the cheap part of me says to buy the
cheap one, however the Eagle really vibrates a lot, so the other part of
me says to spend the money for a good one. Anyone have good or bad
experience with the imported altimeters??
Bruce Green
84 Christen Eagle
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
Anyone have info on the Las Crucis flyin
this October?
Stewart
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Hiers" <craig_rv4(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: SIRS adjustment tool |
Straight down...... Just keep digging and you will get there.
Craig Hiers
> PS, while were on the subject of compasses, when one is at the North Pole,
> which way is South?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
>
>
>Anyone have info on the Las Crucis flyin
>this October?
>
>Stewart
Hey Stewart,
As usual, the details are on Doug Reeve's vansaircraft.net site. Sign up
there on the guestbook, as they are using it as a planning tool for food,
potties and such. I plan to depart from AEG (Double Eagle in Albuquerque)
Friday morning, and will return Sunday. It's a great event. You don't want
to miss it! All the cool cats are staying at the Hampton Inn. :)
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 40051
________________________________________________________________________________
Heck, with all the glass stuff out now, us 7 guys would have space on the right
side of the panel to put one,
HUM...
Dana,
I can see it now, set the auto pilot and watch a movie. Just keep that King IFR
video close in case the weather turns. You -7 guys with all that panel space.
Alan Kritzman
RV-8, 90 hours of just enjoying the view.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Pichon" <DeanPichon(at)msn.com> |
As I recall Avagadro's Number, the "same volume" is per mole of an (ideal) gas
- not molecule. One mole of any gas occupies 22.4 liters at STP. That being said,
I agree completely that the size difference between N2 and O2 is insignificant.
----- Original Message -----
From: Wheeler North
Subject: RV-List: Molecules
I would expect that the issue isn't about molecular size, as the difference
between the two ain't much. If the issue exists its more a function of
permeability of the membrane, much like your lungs are permeable to both O2
and N2, but more so with O2.
Avagadro's Law states that all gas molucules not involved in a chemical
reaction will demand the same volume of space per molecule at equal
temps/pressures, therefore appropriately contributing their portion of
partial pressure. This should include while they are being crammed through a
leak. It doesn't matter what type of gas molecule it is.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Brown" <dan(at)familybrown.org> |
-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
Hash: SHA1
> From: Dean Pichon
> As I recall Avagadro's Number, the "same volume" is per mole of
> an (ideal) gas - not molecule. One mole of any gas occupies 22.4
True enough, but since a mole is a fixed number of molecules
(6.022e23, IIRC), the same holds for molecules.
- --
Dan Brown, KE6MKS, dan(at)familybrown.org
"Since all the world is but a story, it were well for thee to buy the
more enduring story rather than the story that is less enduring."
-- The Judgment of St. Colum Cille
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96iLm+XSnTKyU4K5vIUMht8P
=pDQn
-----END PGP SIGNATURE-----
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dynon Magnetometer Calibration Question |
| From: | "Lockamy, Jack L NA" <jack.lockamy(at)navy.mil> |
Does the external magnetometer also have to be mounted with 8 degrees of tilt to
match the panel tilt where the EFIS resides?
Jack Lockamy
(waiting on my Dynon and ext. magnetometer)
Camarillo, CA
RV-7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chris m <vhmum(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First flight of C-FSTB |
Good on ya ...sound like a very smart cookie!!
Chris and Susie
VH-MUM
VK3GI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bartrim, Todd" <sbartrim(at)mail.canfor.ca>
Subject: RV-List: First flight of C-FSTB
>
> I'm very pleased to announce that RV-9endurance, kit # 90113, has
> now become an airplane. Power is supplied by a Turbocharged 13B Mazda
rotary
> engine, with a 76" 3-blade IVO Magnum with electronic constant speed
> governor. It was built from a standard kit and engine was rebuilt myself
> from a junkyard engine. Everything was done myself, including paint &
> upholstery. I'm extremely pleased with and proud of the results.
> The plane fly's exactly as I remembered from my demo flight 3
years
> ago. Very easy to fly. The engine is very smooth & quiet. So far I've not
> used any boost at all as we've been very conservative with it.
> As I'm a student pilot, I now am looking forward to finishing my
> training in my own plane. Test pilot for the first 3 flights is an
> experienced commercial bush pilot, however as he was unfamiliar with the
> rotary engine (but very interested in it), I was along as flight engineer.
> This worked very well as all he had to do was fly the plane. All other
> duties were my responsibility.
> As my test pilot/instructor has had to return to his regular
flying
> job, testing is on hold for a week. I'm still in the "Holy ****, I can't
> believe it's flying" phase, so next flights will begin to put the plane
> through it's paces.
> As every first flight report before has stated, It really is worth
> all the sacrifices and hard work, so keep on pounding! I found the
building
> process to be tremendously enjoyable, particularly the FWF development of
an
> alternative engine, however it sure is pretty damn cool to be flying it
now!
> :-)
> Thanks to the FlyRotary group and the AeroElectric list for all
the
> knowledge that is freely shared.
>
> The adventure continues......
>
> S. Todd Bartrim
> Turbo 13B
> RX-9endurance
> C-FSTB
> http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
>
> "Imagination is more important than knowledge"
> -Albert Einstein
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chris m <vhmum(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sticking Tailwheel Swivel |
I had this problem and was to do with those 3 little pieces inside the
swivel bit. You need to oil that area not grease. Mine actually broke that
part and got new bits and oiled only in that area . the rest had grease but
have to disassemble to do it as that nipple was useless.
I regrease and oil the bits every 50 hours. I fly from grass and sealed
strip .
Hope this helps!!
Chris and Susie
VH-MUM
VK3GI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: RV-List: Sticking Tailwheel Swivel
>
> I couldn't find any info in the archives on this one, so here goes:
>
> I have about 50 hours total on my RV-6 so far, and I find that my
tailwheel
> pivot point (full swivel) tends to start sticking every 10-15 hours or so.
I
> can still kick it free so it isn't a major hazard when it starts to stick,
> but it's a sure sign that I need to grease it again. I'm using standard
> automotive wheel bearing grease.
>
> To make things more inconvenient, I find the grease fitting totally
useless.
> What happens is that grease will fill up and begin to leak out under the
top
> washer, but nothing gets to the bottom bearing surface, where I need it.
The
> only solution is to disassemble the swivel and manually grease 'er up.
>
> I can live with this, but is this normal procedure for you other tailwheel
> drivers? I operate off of grass but the tailwheel area generally stays
> pretty clean, although it does get slightly mucky after a rain. Did I
leave
> out a washer or something? I don't recall having one for this assembly.
>
> Comments appreciated.
>
> Curt
>
> RV-6, 50 hours. Took up my first passenger last night. Oh man, this is
fun.
> If I'm not flying I'm thinking about the next flight. Help me, I'm
addicted
> and my gas bills are out of control! I'm exhausted from getting up at 5:00
> AM every day to go flying before work!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Bad Day at the Satellite Factory---Humor? |
Guys and Gals-
Check out http://www.spaceref.com/news/viewsr.html?pid=10299
See what nasty things can happen at Lockheed Martin when folks from other
programs borrow your bolts without telling you. This occurred just last weekend.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 648hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
Dana,
there are plenty of in-dash DVD players out there, none of which are
very affordable. Here's a few:
http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S-RqKQZivPxXa/ProdGroup.asp?c=3&g=129100&s=0&cc=01&avf=N
Jeff Point
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BillDube(at)killacycle.com" <BillDube(at)killacycle.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First flight of C-FSTB |
At 03:06 PM 9/8/03, you wrote:
>
> I'm very pleased to announce that RV-9endurance, kit # 90113, has
>now become an airplane. Power is supplied by a Turbocharged 13B Mazda rotary
>engine, with a 76" 3-blade IVO Magnum with electronic constant speed
>governor.
VERY impressive! Great website too!
I have head that with the turbo installed, it is possible to
eliminate the muffler. Have you run the engine up with, and without, the
muffler?
Bill Dube
http://www.killacycle.com/Lights.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "act1" <act1(at)reap.org.nz> |
| Subject: | Sticking Tailwheel Swivel |
Hi Curt,
I filed a shallow groove down from the grease nipple to allow a path for
the grease to follow, seems to work.
Cheers,
Arthur Whitehead
RV-8 Tailwheel swivelling fine so far, 70hrs.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Curt Reimer
Subject: RV-List: Sticking Tailwheel Swivel
I couldn't find any info in the archives on this one, so here goes:
I have about 50 hours total on my RV-6 so far, and I find that my
tailwheel
pivot point (full swivel) tends to start sticking every 10-15 hours or
so. I
can still kick it free so it isn't a major hazard when it starts to
stick,
but it's a sure sign that I need to grease it again. I'm using standard
automotive wheel bearing grease.
To make things more inconvenient, I find the grease fitting totally
useless.
What happens is that grease will fill up and begin to leak out under the
top
washer, but nothing gets to the bottom bearing surface, where I need it.
The
only solution is to disassemble the swivel and manually grease 'er up.
I can live with this, but is this normal procedure for you other
tailwheel
drivers? I operate off of grass but the tailwheel area generally stays
pretty clean, although it does get slightly mucky after a rain. Did I
leave
out a washer or something? I don't recall having one for this assembly.
Comments appreciated.
Curt
RV-6, 50 hours. Took up my first passenger last night. Oh man, this is
fun.
If I'm not flying I'm thinking about the next flight. Help me, I'm
addicted
and my gas bills are out of control! I'm exhausted from getting up at
5:00
AM every day to go flying before work!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Miller <rmiller3(at)earthlink.net> |
Thought I'd reply to this (just for fun...)
> your lungs are permeable to both O2
> and N2, but more so with O2.
>
I don't know that this is true. The partial pressure of atmospheric gases
crossing alveolar membranes remains proportional.
> Avagadro's Law states that all gas molucules not involved in a chemical
> reaction will demand the same volume of space per molecule at equal
> temps/pressures, therefore appropriately contributing their portion of
> partial pressure. This should include while they are being crammed through
a
> leak. It doesn't matter what type of gas molecule it is.
>
>
Agreed.
Robert
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Empennage Ship Date |
| From: | "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti(at)boeing.com> |
Does anyone have information on spoilers that can be installed in an RV-10? I
saw an article on a Mooney some time back that had them installed.
Thank You
Rick Conti
The Boeing Company
office: 703 - 872 - 4602
cell: 703 - 472 - 8592
If you're looking for a cute saying....fuhgeddaboudit
-----Original Message-----
From: BBreckenridge(at)att.net [mailto:BBreckenridge(at)att.net]
Subject: RV-List: Empennage Ship Date
Ok all you "10" builders - I talked to Van's Tuesday around noonish and here's
the latest:
They will be mailing out an information packet later this week or early next.
The first 40 tail
kits will be ready to go around the 22nd of this month. At this point, they're
planning on filling
40 kits per month until the initial order (of a bit over a 100 kits) is taken care
of.
Bruce
#18
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Empennage Ship Date |
The de-facto setup for Mooneys is typically the Precise Flight speedbrake
system:
http://www.preciseflight.com/sb.html
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti(at)boeing.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Empennage Ship Date
>
> Does anyone have information on spoilers that can be installed in an
RV-10? I saw an article on a Mooney some time back that had them installed.
>
> Thank You
> Rick Conti
> The Boeing Company
> office: 703 - 872 - 4602
> cell: 703 - 472 - 8592
> If you're looking for a cute saying....fuhgeddaboudit
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: BBreckenridge(at)att.net [mailto:BBreckenridge(at)att.net]
> To: RV-List(at)matronics.com; RV10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Empennage Ship Date
>
>
> Ok all you "10" builders - I talked to Van's Tuesday around noonish and
here's the latest:
> They will be mailing out an information packet later this week or early
next. The first 40 tail
> kits will be ready to go around the 22nd of this month. At this point,
they're planning on filling
> 40 kits per month until the initial order (of a bit over a 100 kits) is
taken care of.
>
> Bruce
> #18
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon Magnetometer Calibration Question |
It should be mounted so it is in the same position as the EFIS.
From the installation guide.
"The EDC-D10 must be mounted such that its orientation is as closely aligned
with the EFIS-D10 as possible. It should be mounted with the long axis
parallel to the wings, the electrical connector facing toward the front of
the plane, and the mounting tabs on the bottom. The bracket used to hold the
EDC-D10 must account for all differences in angles between the EFIS-D10 and
the EDC-D10. This includes pitch, roll, and yaw. We recommend you use an
electronic level that reads to 1/10th of a degree to make sure the EDC-D10
is aligned with the EFIS-D10 in pitch and roll to better than 2/10th of a
degree."
Ross Mickey
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lockamy, Jack L NA" <jack.lockamy(at)navy.mil>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon Magnetometer Calibration Question
>
> Does the external magnetometer also have to be mounted with 8 degrees of
tilt to match the panel tilt where the EFIS resides?
>
> Jack Lockamy
> (waiting on my Dynon and ext. magnetometer)
> Camarillo, CA
> RV-7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Grigson <iflyhawaii2(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Ignition Harness |
I am looking for a source for 1/2 a harness for a Slick Magneto. The other side
is Lightspeed electronic ignition. Spruce, Chief, Sky Ranch can't help. Any
other sources? I would prefer a Champion harness.
As an alternative, is anyone converting to electronic ignition with an unwanted
harness on their hands or want to split a harness with me?
Thanks in advance.
Aloha
Greg
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Keith Vasey" <keith(at)galvinflying.com> |
| Subject: | Empennage Ship Date |
By "spoiler" do you mean speed brakes? I was a Mooney dealer until their
2001 implosion. The speed brakes on the modern Mooney are made by Precise
Flight in Bend, Oregon. The retail cost of them is about $4,000 (that's a
wag, because I have only seen an "installed" price). The work great for
slowin' down or goin' down. I use them on every flight in a Mooney. I don't
know whether they're necessary on an RV, but of course "necessary" is rarely
the prime consideration on our aircraft.
Keith Vasey
Seattle
RV-8
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Subject: RE: RV-List: Empennage Ship Date
Does anyone have information on spoilers that can be installed in an RV-10?
I saw an article on a Mooney some time back that had them installed.
Thank You
Rick Conti
The Boeing Company
office: 703 - 872 - 4602
cell: 703 - 472 - 8592
If you're looking for a cute saying....fuhgeddaboudit
-----Original Message-----
From: BBreckenridge(at)att.net [mailto:BBreckenridge(at)att.net]
Subject: RV-List: Empennage Ship Date
Ok all you "10" builders - I talked to Van's Tuesday around noonish and
here's the latest:
They will be mailing out an information packet later this week or early
next. The first 40 tail
kits will be ready to go around the 22nd of this month. At this point,
they're planning on filling
40 kits per month until the initial order (of a bit over a 100 kits) is
taken care of.
Bruce
#18
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ignition Harness |
Greg,
I had to do this a couple of years ago on my -8A. Sorry I can't remember
the part number now. Give Unisyn a call (their number is on their web
site). Tell them what you are doing and they will give you a part number
and tell you how to order it . They are very easy and pleasent to work
with.
Mike Robertson
>From: Greg Grigson <iflyhawaii2(at)yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: RVList
>Subject: RV-List: Ignition Harness
>Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 09:16:28 -0700 (PDT)
>
>
> I am looking for a source for 1/2 a harness for a Slick Magneto. The
>other side is Lightspeed electronic ignition. Spruce, Chief, Sky Ranch
>can't help. Any other sources? I would prefer a Champion harness.
>
> As an alternative, is anyone converting to electronic ignition with an
>unwanted harness on their hands or want to split a harness with me?
>
>Thanks in advance.
>Aloha
>Greg
>
>
>---------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Empennage Ship Date |
| From: | "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti(at)boeing.com> |
I have sent an email to Precise Flight asking about spoilers and the RV-10. Many
wouldn't think spoilers are "necessary" on an RV-10, but the advantages seem
high.
Thank You
Rick Conti
The Boeing Company
office: 703 - 872 - 4602
cell: 703 - 472 - 8592
If you're looking for a cute saying....fuhgeddaboudit
-----Original Message-----
From: Keith Vasey [mailto:keith(at)galvinflying.com]
Subject: RE: RV-List: Empennage Ship Date
By "spoiler" do you mean speed brakes? I was a Mooney dealer until their
2001 implosion. The speed brakes on the modern Mooney are made by Precise
Flight in Bend, Oregon. The retail cost of them is about $4,000 (that's a
wag, because I have only seen an "installed" price). The work great for
slowin' down or goin' down. I use them on every flight in a Mooney. I don't
know whether they're necessary on an RV, but of course "necessary" is rarely
the prime consideration on our aircraft.
Keith Vasey
Seattle
RV-8
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Subject: RE: RV-List: Empennage Ship Date
Does anyone have information on spoilers that can be installed in an RV-10?
I saw an article on a Mooney some time back that had them installed.
Thank You
Rick Conti
The Boeing Company
office: 703 - 872 - 4602
cell: 703 - 472 - 8592
If you're looking for a cute saying....fuhgeddaboudit
-----Original Message-----
From: BBreckenridge(at)att.net [mailto:BBreckenridge(at)att.net]
Subject: RV-List: Empennage Ship Date
Ok all you "10" builders - I talked to Van's Tuesday around noonish and
here's the latest:
They will be mailing out an information packet later this week or early
next. The first 40 tail
kits will be ready to go around the 22nd of this month. At this point,
they're planning on filling
40 kits per month until the initial order (of a bit over a 100 kits) is
taken care of.
Bruce
#18
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Grigson <iflyhawaii2(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ignition Harness |
Thanks for all the ideas. I should be able to come up with something over the
next few days.
With aloha,
Greg
Greg Grigson wrote:
I am looking for a source for 1/2 a harness for a Slick Magneto. The other side
is Lightspeed electronic ignition. Spruce, Chief, Sky Ranch can't help. Any other
sources? I would prefer a Champion harness.
As an alternative, is anyone converting to electronic ignition with an unwanted
harness on their hands or want to split a harness with me?
Thanks in advance.
Aloha
Greg
---------------------------------
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Empennage Ship Date |
Why not put the money of spoilers into a nice constant speed. Then you wont
need spoilers.
>
>I have sent an email to Precise Flight asking about spoilers and the RV-10.
>Many wouldn't think spoilers are "necessary" on an RV-10, but the advantages
>seem high.
>
>Thank You
>Rick Conti
>The Boeing Company
>office: 703 - 872 - 4602
> cell: 703 - 472 - 8592
>If you're looking for a cute saying....fuhgeddaboudit
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Keith Vasey [mailto:keith(at)galvinflying.com]
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Empennage Ship Date
>
>
>By "spoiler" do you mean speed brakes? I was a Mooney dealer until their
>2001 implosion. The speed brakes on the modern Mooney are made by Precise
>Flight in Bend, Oregon. The retail cost of them is about $4,000 (that's a
>wag, because I have only seen an "installed" price). The work great for
>slowin' down or goin' down. I use them on every flight in a Mooney. I don't
>know whether they're necessary on an RV, but of course "necessary" is rarely
>the prime consideration on our aircraft.
>
>Keith Vasey
>Seattle
>RV-8
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; RV10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Empennage Ship Date
>
>
>Does anyone have information on spoilers that can be installed in an RV-10?
>I saw an article on a Mooney some time back that had them installed.
>
>Thank You
>Rick Conti
>The Boeing Company
>office: 703 - 872 - 4602
> cell: 703 - 472 - 8592
>If you're looking for a cute saying....fuhgeddaboudit
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: BBreckenridge(at)att.net [mailto:BBreckenridge(at)att.net]
>To: RV-List(at)matronics.com; RV10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Empennage Ship Date
>
>
>Ok all you "10" builders - I talked to Van's Tuesday around noonish and
>here's the latest:
>They will be mailing out an information packet later this week or early
>next. The first 40 tail
>kits will be ready to go around the 22nd of this month. At this point,
>they're planning on filling
>40 kits per month until the initial order (of a bit over a 100 kits) is
>taken care of.
>
>Bruce
>#18
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV6A flap to fuse fit. |
Have a concern that needs some expert review.
My lower inboard flap skins do not align well with the fuse. The flap is too
high in relation to the fuse and the over lapping skin must bend when the
flaps are retracted. Anyone else have this problem? and what did you do about it?
Dale Ensing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bhuk(at)earthlink.net |
| Subject: | heat muff confusion |
checked the archives...which only added to the confusion. Is the universal heat
muff in the new
Van's catalog a Robbins muff? anyone?...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
Flyin Rough River State Park - Falls of the Rough - 2I3
Friday 9/12 thru Sunday 9/14
Lodge walking distance from the runway
Camp with your plane
Meet in the Lodge Friday evening for war stories and drinks
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie & Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | E-714 right elevator counterweight trimming |
Well, a quick archive search didn't turn up much, so here's my
contribution. Not presented as 'the' way to do it, just 'a' way to do it.
A table saw with a carbide blade works fine for removing most of the
lead except for the area that must be radiused (got to avoid those
stress risers in those fishin' sinkers ;-) ) Set the blade height to
remove the thickness desired & make multiple passes like cutting a dado.
Or do what I did if you want to risk fingers & thumbs: make one cut
across the nose using the rip fence then one cut across the face using
the cross-cut guide. You get to keep a chunk of the lead, but it's a lot
more risky.
I then used a 1/4" shank, 1/2" diameter rotary file, cylindrical, round
top (USATCO p/n 452HSS is similar) to mill the radius. I chucked it in
my drill press, adjusted the table height so that the tip of the cutter
just missed the surface left by the table saw, & made multiple very
shallow & slow cuts until the side of the cutter reached my limit mark
on the counterweight.
I know there's a better way. Somebody just needs to share how....
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A flap to fuse fit. |
Dale, I would joggle the flap skin, i.e., put a little step in the skin so
that it mates with the fuselage.
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 QB (Building)
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: <DWENSING(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV6A flap to fuse fit.
>
> Have a concern that needs some expert review.
> My lower inboard flap skins do not align well with the fuse. The flap is
too
> high in relation to the fuse and the over lapping skin must bend when the
> flaps are retracted. Anyone else have this problem? and what did you do
about it?
> Dale Ensing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A flap to fuse fit. |
Yup. Had that same issue on my RV-7 on both flaps. I trimmed and joggled
the lower flap skin edge so that it sits flush. I might chop the whole
inboard end off if I don't end up happy with how it looks when it's
final-assembled, but it looked ok when I did my initial wing mating.
Lemme know if you want photos (or just dig through my web site for wing
mating stuff...).
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <DWENSING(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV6A flap to fuse fit.
>
> Have a concern that needs some expert review.
> My lower inboard flap skins do not align well with the fuse. The flap is
too
> high in relation to the fuse and the over lapping skin must bend when the
> flaps are retracted. Anyone else have this problem? and what did you do
about it?
> Dale Ensing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Duckworks Lighting Question |
I'm installing my duckworks landing light and there is a rib shaped template. Section
2.4 of the plans say to fit the template into the leading edge (ok so far)
then mark the 2 locations. On the template it's marked "A" and "B" which I
can safely say is the 2 locations.
The next step says to drill the 6 holes! Each rib according to the template gets
2 holes, not three. OK so now I go to the drawing and I see three holes are
supposed to be in each rib. Two at the top and one at the bottom! What in the
wide wide world of sports am I missing here?
Recommended web site with pics?
As always thanks for your help.
BTW...... Cutting that hole out was almost as much fun as slow dancing on a bed
of hot coals!
Karie Daniel
Sammamish, WA
RV-7A QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Duckworks Lighting Question |
The idea is that you would have two angles at which you could install the
mounting plate. You'll probably only use one, but it's nice to have
options... 8-) Tailwheel folks might use one orientation, and nosedraggers
may use another orientation. Or, point one up for taxi, one down for
landing (or however you see fit). The plate is still adjustable to some
extent once you pick two mounting points, but the third point gives you even
greater flexibility.
http://www.rvproject.com/20020624.html (right wing, some pics)
http://www.rvproject.com/20020727.html (left wing, more pics)
Have fun,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Duckworks Lighting Question
>
> I'm installing my duckworks landing light and there is a rib shaped
template. Section 2.4 of the plans say to fit the template into the leading
edge (ok so far) then mark the 2 locations. On the template it's marked "A"
and "B" which I can safely say is the 2 locations.
>
> The next step says to drill the 6 holes! Each rib according to the
template gets 2 holes, not three. OK so now I go to the drawing and I see
three holes are supposed to be in each rib. Two at the top and one at the
bottom! What in the wide wide world of sports am I missing here?
>
> Recommended web site with pics?
>
> As always thanks for your help.
>
> BTW...... Cutting that hole out was almost as much fun as slow dancing on
a bed of hot coals!
>
> Karie Daniel
> Sammamish, WA
> RV-7A QB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Duckworks Lighting Question |
There are two bottom holes. This give you an adjustment for the angle of
the light beam in theory, you should be able to adjust the light(s) for
either a level or 3 point attitude, depending on gear type and the landing
attitude you favor.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Duckworks Lighting Question
>
> I'm installing my duckworks landing light and there is a rib shaped
template. Section 2.4 of the plans say to fit the template into the leading
edge (ok so far) then mark the 2 locations. On the template it's marked "A"
and "B" which I can safely say is the 2 locations.
>
> The next step says to drill the 6 holes! Each rib according to the
template gets 2 holes, not three. OK so now I go to the drawing and I see
three holes are supposed to be in each rib. Two at the top and one at the
bottom! What in the wide wide world of sports am I missing here?
>
> Recommended web site with pics?
>
> As always thanks for your help.
>
> BTW...... Cutting that hole out was almost as much fun as slow dancing on
a bed of hot coals!
>
> Karie Daniel
> Sammamish, WA
> RV-7A QB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | RV-7 IO-360 baffle question |
Configuration: Van's IO-360 baffle kit, RV-7, drawing OP-4.
Does part 20 (right front inlet floor stiffener) go on TOP or BELOW part 10
(right front inlet floor). I believe the plans imply the stiffener on top,
but that seems like unnecessarily disturbing the flow a little bit -- the
little lip formed by the height of the stiffener.
Any advice?
Thanks in advance,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "" <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com> |
All,
Any tips on getting the final little bit of bend on the trim tab? I got the most
of it done, but the inboard ends puff out (don't sit flush). Will the pop
rivets pull it flush?
Also, the countersink got away from me on one of the holes on the trim tab spar.
It is actually bigger than the -4. Should I squeeze down a 4 to make it a
little fatter? Any other standard rivets I could put it there? I am trying to
avoid buying another spar for one bad hole.
Thanks,
Scott
7A Emp/Wings
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Empennage Ship Date |
| From: | "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti(at)boeing.com> |
Scott,
I don't understand what you mean by, "a nice constant speed". If you mean a propeller,
why do you think it will eliminate the need for spoilers?
Thank You
Rick Conti
The Boeing Company
office: 703 - 872 - 4602
cell: 703 - 472 - 8592
If you're looking for a cute saying....fuhgeddaboudit
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott Bilinski [mailto:bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com]
Subject: RE: RV-List: Empennage Ship Date
Why not put the money of spoilers into a nice constant speed. Then you wont
need spoilers.
>
>I have sent an email to Precise Flight asking about spoilers and the RV-10.
>Many wouldn't think spoilers are "necessary" on an RV-10, but the advantages
>seem high.
>
>Thank You
>Rick Conti
>The Boeing Company
>office: 703 - 872 - 4602
> cell: 703 - 472 - 8592
>If you're looking for a cute saying....fuhgeddaboudit
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Keith Vasey [mailto:keith(at)galvinflying.com]
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Empennage Ship Date
>
>
>By "spoiler" do you mean speed brakes? I was a Mooney dealer until their
>2001 implosion. The speed brakes on the modern Mooney are made by Precise
>Flight in Bend, Oregon. The retail cost of them is about $4,000 (that's a
>wag, because I have only seen an "installed" price). The work great for
>slowin' down or goin' down. I use them on every flight in a Mooney. I don't
>know whether they're necessary on an RV, but of course "necessary" is rarely
>the prime consideration on our aircraft.
>
>Keith Vasey
>Seattle
>RV-8
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; RV10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Empennage Ship Date
>
>
>Does anyone have information on spoilers that can be installed in an RV-10?
>I saw an article on a Mooney some time back that had them installed.
>
>Thank You
>Rick Conti
>The Boeing Company
>office: 703 - 872 - 4602
> cell: 703 - 472 - 8592
>If you're looking for a cute saying....fuhgeddaboudit
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: BBreckenridge(at)att.net [mailto:BBreckenridge(at)att.net]
>To: RV-List(at)matronics.com; RV10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Empennage Ship Date
>
>
>Ok all you "10" builders - I talked to Van's Tuesday around noonish and
>here's the latest:
>They will be mailing out an information packet later this week or early
>next. The first 40 tail
>kits will be ready to go around the 22nd of this month. At this point,
>they're planning on filling
>40 kits per month until the initial order (of a bit over a 100 kits) is
>taken care of.
>
>Bruce
>#18
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Empennage Ship Date |
Probably bad choice of words, should have said something like, just use a
constant speed prop because they act like a speed brake. If you have flown
an RV you know the very steep approach angle on final with the CS and no
power applied.
RV's are slippery aircraft and can be a little challenging for the new
pilot to slow down if they are not using a constant speed prop. With a CS
they descend very rapidly when the throttle is pulled back and prop at fine
pitch.
Maybe I completely misunderstand your requirements for the spoilers but
with a 650 ft landing distance at gross you can make it into some pretty
short fields, with CS of course.
Can you tell us where/how you plane to use the spoilers?
>
>Scott,
>
>I don't understand what you mean by, "a nice constant speed". If you mean a
>propeller, why do you think it will eliminate the need for spoilers?
>
>Thank You
>Rick Conti
>The Boeing Company
>office: 703 - 872 - 4602
> cell: 703 - 472 - 8592
>If you're looking for a cute saying....fuhgeddaboudit
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Scott Bilinski [mailto:bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com]
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Empennage Ship Date
>
>
>Why not put the money of spoilers into a nice constant speed. Then you wont
>need spoilers.
>
>
>>
>>I have sent an email to Precise Flight asking about spoilers and the RV-10.
>>Many wouldn't think spoilers are "necessary" on an RV-10, but the advantages
>>seem high.
>>
>>Thank You
>>Rick Conti
>>The Boeing Company
>>office: 703 - 872 - 4602
>> cell: 703 - 472 - 8592
>>If you're looking for a cute saying....fuhgeddaboudit
>>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Keith Vasey [mailto:keith(at)galvinflying.com]
>>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: RE: RV-List: Empennage Ship Date
>>
>>
>>
>>By "spoiler" do you mean speed brakes? I was a Mooney dealer until their
>>2001 implosion. The speed brakes on the modern Mooney are made by Precise
>>Flight in Bend, Oregon. The retail cost of them is about $4,000 (that's a
>>wag, because I have only seen an "installed" price). The work great for
>>slowin' down or goin' down. I use them on every flight in a Mooney. I don't
>>know whether they're necessary on an RV, but of course "necessary" is rarely
>>the prime consideration on our aircraft.
>>
>>Keith Vasey
>>Seattle
>>RV-8
>>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
>>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; RV10-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: RE: RV-List: Empennage Ship Date
>>
>>
>>
>>Does anyone have information on spoilers that can be installed in an RV-10?
>>I saw an article on a Mooney some time back that had them installed.
>>
>>Thank You
>>Rick Conti
>>The Boeing Company
>>office: 703 - 872 - 4602
>> cell: 703 - 472 - 8592
>>If you're looking for a cute saying....fuhgeddaboudit
>>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: BBreckenridge(at)att.net [mailto:BBreckenridge(at)att.net]
>>To: RV-List(at)matronics.com; RV10-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: RV-List: Empennage Ship Date
>>
>>
>>
>>Ok all you "10" builders - I talked to Van's Tuesday around noonish and
>>here's the latest:
>>They will be mailing out an information packet later this week or early
>>next. The first 40 tail
>>kits will be ready to go around the 22nd of this month. At this point,
>>they're planning on filling
>>40 kits per month until the initial order (of a bit over a 100 kits) is
>>taken care of.
>>
>>Bruce
>>#18
>>
>>
>
>
>Scott Bilinski
>Eng dept 305
>Phone (858) 657-2536
>Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net> |
| Subject: | RV-7 IO-360 baffle question |
I put mine below.
Sincerely,
Noel Simmons
Blue Sky Aviation, Inc.
Phone: 866-859-0390
Fax: 406-538-6574
noel(at)blueskyaviation.net
www.blueskyaviation.net <http://www.blueskyaviation.net>
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
Subject: RV-List: RV-7 IO-360 baffle question
Configuration: Van's IO-360 baffle kit, RV-7, drawing OP-4.
Does part 20 (right front inlet floor stiffener) go on TOP or BELOW part 10
(right front inlet floor). I believe the plans imply the stiffener on top,
but that seems like unnecessarily disturbing the flow a little bit -- the
little lip formed by the height of the stiffener.
Any advice?
Thanks in advance,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-7 IO-360 baffle question |
Thanks. I got a response from Ken Krueger this morning, who confirmed that
it does go below.
)_( Dan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-7 IO-360 baffle question
>
> I put mine below.
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Noel Simmons
> Blue Sky Aviation, Inc.
> Phone: 866-859-0390
> Fax: 406-538-6574
> noel(at)blueskyaviation.net
> www.blueskyaviation.net <http://www.blueskyaviation.net>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; RV7and7A(at)yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RV-List: RV-7 IO-360 baffle question
>
>
> Configuration: Van's IO-360 baffle kit, RV-7, drawing OP-4.
>
> Does part 20 (right front inlet floor stiffener) go on TOP or BELOW part
10
> (right front inlet floor). I believe the plans imply the stiffener on
top,
> but that seems like unnecessarily disturbing the flow a little bit -- the
> little lip formed by the height of the stiffener.
>
> Any advice?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Knicholas2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Full Size Plans |
In a message dated 9/12/2003 8:33:26 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
foldenburg(at)earthlink.net writes:
> How big are the full size plans? I'm trying to decide on an easel or
> bulletin board setup in the shop.
>
>
The plans are about 2 ft x 3 feet. I put a cork bullitin board on the shop
wall. As the small pieces come together to become BIG pieces, floor space
fills up fast!
Kim Nicholas
RV9A - almost ready to move to the hanger!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: Full Size Plans |
>
>How big are the full size plans?
"D" sized. About 36" x 24".
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Aft top skin F6112 |
List:
I am currently scratching my head about where to trim the aft top skin, F6112,
for my slider-equipped 6A. There are no drawings depicting the dimensions of
the arc that is cut out of the forward edge of this skin. All that is said in
the instructions is to cut it to match the slider frame.
Is this a critical cut? I assume that you don't want to cut too much off so that
the rear canopy skirt will overlap this skin adequately.
Can anyone give me a ball park idea here? How far away from the center of F606
is the forward edge of your F6112 skin at the top center of the fuselage? Also,
how far from F624 is the edge of this skin at the longerons?
Thanks in advance folks.....
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
finish kit.....slider under way
Peshtigo, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bartrim, Todd" <sbartrim(at)mail.canfor.ca> |
> > How big are the full size plans? I'm trying to decide on an easel or
> > bulletin board setup in the shop.
> >
> >
I built an easel on wheels, which I found most excellent as I would
simply roll it over to wherever I was working. It would have been a pain in
the patootie to have to walk over to the wall everytime I needed to refer to
something. However I'm lucky enough to have had a large shop to work in. In
a smaller shop where space is an issue, you would also be much closer to the
walls. Another issue is that you often need to refer to several sheets
within a short span of time. You would need to have a lot of sheets on the
wall or continually be reposting them. With the easel, you just pull the
current one to the top of the pile.
S. Todd Bartrim
Turbo 13B
RX-9endurance
C-FSTB
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
"Imagination is more important than knowledge"
-Albert Einstein
RE: RV-List: Full Size Plans
How big are the full size plans? I'm trying to decide on an easel or
bulletin board setup in the shop.
I built an easel on wheels, which I found most excellent as I would simply roll
it over to wherever I was working. It would have been a pain in the patootie
to have to walk over to the wall everytime I needed to refer to something. However
I'm lucky enough to have had a large shop to work in. In a smaller shop
where space is an issue, you would also be much closer to the walls. Another issue
is that you often need to refer to several sheets within a short span of
time. You would need to have a lot of sheets on the wall or continually be reposting
them. With the easel, you just pull the current one to the top of the pile.
S. Todd Bartrim
Turbo 13B
RX-9endurance
C-FSTB
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
Imagination is more important than knowledge
-Albert Einstein
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Adding lead to elevator counterweights after painting?? |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Guys,
After painting my elevators, they are both trailing edge heavy. I did not trim
the L elevator counterweights at all (due to weight of trim tab and servo on
that side), and on the right side I trimmed the lead such that it was still overbalanced
when unpainted, anticipating that the paint would make it balance "about
right". I seriously underestimated the amount of weight the paint would
add (the dark blue Sherwim williams Genesis I'm spraying takes 3 coats to get
complete coverage).
So...I imagine I'm not the first to have this problem, what have others done to
add weight to the elevators after painting? The best idea I've come up with
so far is to pop rivet in a small aluminum baffle aft of the existing counterweight
lead and then pour in an epoxy/lead shot slurry. Let dry, mask off rest
of elevator and touch up the area with paint to make it look decent...
What say ye RVators?
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D in painting hell...
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6160hp(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Early report from 9th Annual RV Forum, EAA486 Fulton NY |
From the KFZY field report, 6 RV's have already flown in to the Forum. With the
field based RV aircraft and diehard RV plane locals we will have at least 15
on the field Saturday. Mike Seager in the Van's factory Aircraft has made it
also and the lessons have begun.
KFZY Oswego County, Fulton NY Saturday looks to be intermittent scattered rain
forecast, but VFR otherwise, it is a bummer to the south though.... Get there
early, spend the night as Sunday after the great pancake breakfast, it looks VFR
favorable. You'll have a great time!
Hope to see you there the event goes on rain or shine, classes will be held. Thanks
to the many RV wanna be's who are driving too...and yes they do make up the
majority of our guests!
It is not to late, preregistration not required. Get in that car now, what are
you waiting for?
So once again Thanks to all who are comming!!!
David McManmon
President, EAA 486
RV6 N58DM Builder-Pilot
Previous Post edited below:
September 12, 2003 Friday night fly in, cook out and camp out. The EAA 486 General
meeting night too.
September 13, 2003 Saturday technical seminars all day, meals provided to paid
attendee's. Then a nice dinner banquet with a presentation. This year Mr. Kirk
House, ex-Director Curator of the Glenn Cirtiss Museum will talk about the
books on Glenn he wrote, and how Glenn was the ultimate Experimenter!
September 14, 2003 Sunday AM our great pancake breakfast and perhaps a coordinated
fly out for lunch, planes, weather and pilots willing.
see us at www.eaachapter486.com
Last year over 56 RV's and 25 SPAM's flew in with over 150 attendee's. There was
Mike Seager and the Factory RV6 doing instruction and manufacturers like Lycoming
and Aerospace logic with tables displaying and selling their wares.
I could go on...but you get the picture...just ask some one who has been there
the $45 is easily worth it. Hope to See
you all there.
Respectfully,
David McManmon
President EAA 486
RV6 Flying, Builder, Pilot N58DM
DNA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bartrim, Todd" <sbartrim(at)mail.canfor.ca> |
| Subject: | First flight of C-FSTB - Noise |
> I have head that with the turbo installed, it is possible
> to
> eliminate the muffler. Have you run the engine up with, and without,
> the
> muffler?
>
>
> Bill Dube
> http://www.killacycle.com/Lights.htm
Hi Bill;
Yes I did run without the muffler, however I had no exhaust pipe at
all, just the outlet directly from the turbo. (exhaust materials were held
up at customs at this point). It sounded much like an outboard motor out of
water. Certainly quieter than a Lyc and it is quiet enough to eliminate the
muffler, however I really want a quiet airplane, as like most pilots, I'm
hoping one day to have my own airstrip at home. Even though I live in a
rural setting, there is always some jack*** that will complain about noise.
In Europe noise regulations have resulted in strict regulations that
ban overflight of some cities (any Europeans on the list feel free to
correct me). I just feel that if us North Americans are more proactive in
managing our own noise emissions, we won't be forced to comply with
unreasonable laws.
Just one man's opinion....
S. Todd Bartrim
Turbo 13B
RX-9endurance
C-FSTB
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
"Imagination is more important than knowledge"
-Albert Einstein
RE: RV-List: First flight of C-FSTB - Noise
I have head that with the turbo installed, it is possible to
eliminate the muffler. Have you run the engine up with, and without, the
muffler?
Bill Dube LED(at)Killacycle.com
http://www.killacycle.com/Lights.htm
Hi Bill;
Yes I did run without the muffler, however I had no exhaust pipe at all, just
the outlet directly from the turbo. (exhaust materials were held up at customs
at this point). It sounded much like an outboard motor out of water. Certainly
quieter than a Lyc and it is quiet enough to eliminate the muffler, however
I really want a quiet airplane, as like most pilots, I'm hoping one day to have
my own airstrip at home. Even though I live in a rural setting, there is always
some jack*** that will complain about noise.
In Europe noise regulations have resulted in strict regulations that ban overflight
of some cities (any Europeans on the list feel free to correct me). I just
feel that if us North Americans are more proactive in managing our own noise
emissions, we won't be forced to comply with unreasonable laws.
Just one man's opinion....
S. Todd Bartrim
Turbo 13B
RX-9endurance
C-FSTB
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
Imagination is more important than knowledge
-Albert Einstein
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Adding lead to elevator counterweights after painting?? |
| From: | glenn.williams(at)businessacft.bombardier.com |
09/12/2003 01:44:58 PM
have you thought about adding washers to the screws that attach the lead?
HMMMM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aft top skin F6112 |
This is really not a very critical cut at all. What I did was make sure I
had several inches forward of the trailing edge of the canopy skirt, then
eyeball the curve as is shown on the plans, just wag it. What you will
encounter is that as you fit the canopy, you will have to trim off much of
the lower part of the skin, especially near the longerons, to keep from
interfereing with the canopy frame, etc. In the end I realized I had wasted
way too much time pondering this.
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 QB (Building)
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: Aft top skin F6112
>
> List:
>
> I am currently scratching my head about where to trim the aft top skin,
F6112, for my slider-equipped 6A. There are no drawings depicting the
dimensions of the arc that is cut out of the forward edge of this skin. All
that is said in the instructions is to cut it to match the slider frame.
>
> Is this a critical cut? I assume that you don't want to cut too much off
so that the rear canopy skirt will overlap this skin adequately.
>
> Can anyone give me a ball park idea here? How far away from the center of
F606 is the forward edge of your F6112 skin at the top center of the
fuselage? Also, how far from F624 is the edge of this skin at the
longerons?
>
> Thanks in advance folks.....
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Jeff Orear
> RV6A
> finish kit.....slider under way
> Peshtigo, WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6160hp(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Oswego Co KFZY RV Forum update |
Just left the airport....
Meeting night was held, Mike Seager after his flight lessons gave the group a little
talk about Van's State of the Business and the unfortunate Red RV6 Oshkosh
incident.
There is a flying RV6 sans cowls set up in hanger to give a seminar and to discuss
his automotive style built fuel injection system. As well the trailer delivered
RV8 sans tail/wings but sporting the Subaru Engine FWF package for another
seminar....SO WHOLE and apart RV's we got em.
7 RV's yes 3, 6, 7, 8, 9 but no 4's yet ....all tied down, 1 or 2 spams there too
already,not including the field based planes. There are 6 or so other RV's
there (kind you tow behind the truck and there is more than 10 tenst set up for
the overnight campers who don't want to miss the morning roll call.... man
these RV builders are a dedicated bunch.
Shaping up for a great forum.
Regards
David McManmon
President, EAA 486
N58DM RV6 Builder/Pilot
DNA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ignition Harness |
I got mine from Mattituck.
Jim Bean
RV8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | doug <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au> |
| Subject: | RV-6 question: Rivet Spacing on F-606 |
There are two rows of rivets joining the forward and aft side skins at
F-606. I know the rows are spaced 1" apart, but what is the vertical
spacing between the rivet supposed to be?
I suspect it is 1.25" since this spacing is used universally around this
area plus the drawing 'looks' to be about this distance.
I am confused by a note on the drawing pointing to the curved transition
bend at the bottom of the bulkhead where it says 3/4" spacing. I assume
this is only for the area of the bend.
What spacing have others used? What is the spacing on the RV-7?
Doug Gray
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Adding lead to elevator counterweights after painting?? |
Why not go to your local tire store and pick up some of the 'stick-on lead weights'
which are used on the inside of mag wheels for balancing? They come in various
weights, they're small, hold well, and so cheap the tire store operator
may just give you a handful FREE....
I've used them successfully on other aircraft for balancing control surfaces.
Jack Lockamy
Camarillo, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | engine contol cable lengths? |
Im ready to run my engine control cables and am looking for the proper lengths.
I have an O-360 F1A6 with a Bendix fuel inj and cs prop. The prop gov is a
front top mount. Controls will be mounted side by side under the center of the
panel on a 6a.
Is anyone using this configuration?
Thanks
Jeff Dowling
RV-6A almost
Chicago/Louisville
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6 question: Rivet Spacing on F-606 |
Yes, the spacing should be 1.25" or less. I found that 1.25" worked on
the stringers and longerons, but needed to be modified on the bulkheads.
I shoulda bought a rivet fan; doing it arithmetically is a pain.
Anyway, there's a couple of other rows not called out. I was informed
that unless it was specifically called out a different spacing or size,
assume 3- rivets at 1.25" spacing on the fuse skins.
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - Finally putting skins on his fuselage
-----Original Message-----
There are two rows of rivets joining the forward and aft side skins at
F-606. I know the rows are spaced 1" apart, but what is the vertical
spacing between the rivet supposed to be?
I suspect it is 1.25" since this spacing is used universally around this
area plus the drawing 'looks' to be about this distance.
I am confused by a note on the drawing pointing to the curved transition
bend at the bottom of the bulkhead where it says 3/4" spacing. I assume
this is only for the area of the bend.
What spacing have others used? What is the spacing on the RV-7?
Doug Gray
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Rozema <hartist1(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Getting rid of all my old art work |
> LAST CHANCE DISPOSAL SALE - Artists Inventory of Aviation Prints. 12,000 or
> more, signed, proofs, and artists proofs of aircraft: Spitfire, P-40,
> AWACS/KC135, Shuttle, Piccard Balloon, Christen Eagle, F-14, F-15, Thunderbirds
> (76), Wildcat, F5E, and Skyhawks. Artist member ASAA and USAF Art Program. Make
> offer including shipping. Located Phoenix, Im 74 and these have been in air
> conditioned storage for the last 20 years. Time to move them or dump them. I
> stopped marketing them in 1984 when I moved to Phoenix.
>
> Pass the word to anyone interested
>
> Hal Rozema
> EAA 390982
> ZENITH VSTOL CH701/3300 N701PF
> theplanefolks.net
> hal(at)thecaddesigner.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 question: Rivet Spacing on F-606 |
>Yes, the spacing should be 1.25" or less. I found that 1.25" worked on
>the stringers and longerons, but needed to be modified on the bulkheads.
>>>>I shoulda bought a rivet fan; doing it arithmetically is a pain.
>>>
Why spend money on a rivet FAN?? I used some of my wife's elastic "Spandex"
ribbon that was in her sowing basket. The stuff I have is 5/16" wide and you
can cut a suitable length, say 2' and slightly stretch it out over a steel
rule (or marks on a table)and mark a line every inch on the elastic with
your Sharpie and number them from 0 to 20 (or whatever).
Then when it comes to marking the hole spacing on the aluminum, using a
tailor's tape measure you can find out how many rivets you need to put in
between the first and last one for your particular spacing. Stretch the
elastic for the number of holes you need and mark on the aluminum for 1
1/4", 1 1/2" etc. spacing that you require. You'd be surprised how linearly
that elastic stretches to the wider than calibrated marks on your elastic
tape. Works like a charm even on curved surfaces where the fan does not and
won't scratch the aluminum skin.
Try it, you'll like it!
Cheers!!--Henry Hore
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Pat Long ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Pat Long
Subject: Cracks in Wood Prop Hub Bore
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/PGLong@aol.com.09.13.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ John McMahon ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: John McMahon
Subject: Plenum
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/rv6@earthlink.net.09.13.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Phone Jack Fiber Washers |
All-
If anyone out there has a spare set of phone jack insulating washers, that
normally come with all of the name brand 4-place intercoms, would you mind
donating one set (one fiber shoulder washer and one fiber flat washer) to the cause
of my buddy John Hyde's Fokker D7 replica?
I had a few extra from the last three planes I built, but apparently gave
them away to others over the years. The D7 is a single seater sans intercom but
needs them for the Microair Com mic plug.
TIA
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 648hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Adding lead to elevator counterweights after painting?? |
Only problem with that is that if one of those baby's comes loose it can
jam your elevator. They should be permanently attached.
Dave -6 flying CPM, EAA Tech Counselor
Jack Lockamy wrote:
>
>Why not go to your local tire store and pick up some of the 'stick-on lead weights'
which are used on the inside of mag wheels for balancing? They come in
various weights, they're small, hold well, and so cheap the tire store operator
may just give you a handful FREE....
>
>I've used them successfully on other aircraft for balancing control surfaces.
>
>Jack Lockamy
>Camarillo, CA
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Mcmahon <rv6(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | R V Fly-in Fall Classic (M54) |
Just to remind all this upcoming week-end
the Fall Classic R V fly-in near Nashville,Tn (M54)
at Lebanon,Tn 20 miles east of Nashville.......
There will be a fly Mart this year..Y'all come
John McMahon 615-452-8742
R V6 Paint near future
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nate" <nateaf(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | F-1 Rocket Quickbuild for sale |
Interested in a RV-4 or RV-8? The F-1 Rocket is another tandem 2-seater but with a lot more performance. I am selling kit #111 with the tailkit for $31,500. There is no work done so there should be no problem with the 51% rule. If you would like more information on the F-1, visit http://www.teamrocketaircraft.com/.
Contact info: E-mail nateaf(at)hotmail.com
Phone: 310-416-1686
Location: Los Angeles
Nate Elliott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: [SoCAL-RVlist] Carb Ice over the Santa Monicas? Redux |
(very long)
Grasping at straws:
- How about looking for an induction system leak? (crack/hole in the
rubber hoses that join induction system components; loose screws/bolts
holding the carb to the engine).
- How about dirty/clogged/defective air filter?
Tim******
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Adding lead to elevator counterweights after painting?? |
I think in the olden days, before Van sold the pre-formed wieghts,
people would mix lead shot in epoxy and pour it in place. Maybe you
could try that....
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Only problem with that is that if one of those baby's comes
> loose it can
> jam your elevator. They should be permanently attached.
>
> Dave -6 flying CPM, EAA Tech Counselor
>
> Jack Lockamy wrote:
>
> >
> >Why not go to your local tire store and pick up some of the
> 'stick-on
> >lead weights' which are used on the inside of mag wheels for
> balancing?
> >They come in various weights, they're small, hold well, and so cheap
> >the tire store operator may just give you a handful FREE....
> >
> >I've used them successfully on other aircraft for balancing control
> >surfaces.
> >
> >Jack Lockamy
> >Camarillo, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronnie Brown" <romott(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Lycoming Alternator Update |
I found and fixed my alternator problem. There was a broken wire between the field
slip ring and the field winding. I added a U shaped piece of wire to reach
beyond the broken end of the field wire and soldered it back together. It
worked fine for one hour yesterday.
Here's what I found out while researching this problem:
My alternator is made by Hitachi and used on 81-87 Mazda (probably not RX-7's)
per NAPA parts manual and does not have an internal voltage regulator. I have
a VR-600 solid state regulator mounted on the firewall. Don George built my Lycoming
IO360C1C and says he obtained my alternator from AirTec at 1-800-366-4746.
They supply non- certified alternators for the homebuilt crowd.
Also, someone says the Velocity factory sells an internally regulated alternator
for $200
I also got an email from
| Hi Ronnie,
| I think the actual P/N of the alternator you may have is a Mitsubishi
| 186-0355 or 14700. It may help in your quest for brushes! If you need a
| replacement we sell the complete set up: belt, alt. mounts brackets and
| hardware for $245.00. I agree expensive by automotive standards!
| Good Luck,
| Mahlon
|
Mahlon also sent the following:
| Hi Ronnie,
| It depends on where your engine came from or what application you are
| trying to mimic.
| Pipers used Mopar and Prestolite on O-320's
| Cessna used Ford on O-320's
| Beech used Ford and Prestolite on O-320's
| Can't remember what Bellanca and some of the others used but basically they
| all used some version of Ford, Prestolite or Mopar. To further complicate
| things the mounting brackets and ring gear support assemblies were
| different for each of the installations. IE belt that fit a ford alt.
| pulley doesn't fit a MOPAR flywheel and same thing for the mounting
| brackets. You really need to know what brackets and what flywheel you have
| to make the correct determination of what's the right Alternator. If you
| let me know what you have I will try to check it out for you On Monday when
| I am back in the shop. If you are totally confused feel free to call me at
| 1-800-624-6680 ext 305 and maybe I can better explain verbally.
| Anyway I hope this helps,
| Mahlon Russell
|
From: "Jim and Bev Cone" <jimnbev(at)olypen.com>
Subject: RV-List: Alternator
The Pelican alternator sold by ACS is off of a Chevy Sprint
Spectrum. It is a small 65 amp alternator that is self regulating and has automatic
overheat protection that resets when an overheated condition is resolved.
I have one and it works well.
Jim Cone
Another post from kr shultz" | From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: F-1 Rocket Quickbuild for sale |
Work done has NO bearing on 51% rule... NONE!
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Nate" <nateaf(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: F-1 Rocket Quickbuild for sale
>
> Interested in a RV-4 or RV-8? The F-1 Rocket is another tandem 2-seater
but with a lot more performance. I am selling kit #111 with the tailkit for
$31,500. There is no work done so there should be no problem with the 51%
rule. If you would like more information on the F-1, visit
http://www.teamrocketaircraft.com/.
>
> Contact info: E-mail nateaf(at)hotmail.com
> Phone: 310-416-1686
> Location: Los Angeles
>
> Nate Elliott
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie & Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: [SoCAL-RVlist] Carb Ice over the Santa Monicas? |
Redux (very long)
Tim Lewis wrote:
>
>Grasping at straws:
>- How about looking for an induction system leak? (crack/hole in the
>rubber hoses that join induction system components; loose screws/bolts
>holding the carb to the engine).
>- How about dirty/clogged/defective air filter?
>
>Tim******
>Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
>RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
>http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
>******
>
Another possibility is sticking valves. A friend's Cub with a C90
Continental gave him fits for months (years?) until he pulled the
cylinders & cleaned the lead off the valve stems & guides. Symptom was
intermittant & unpredictable rough running.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Adding lead to elevator counterweights after painting?? |
>I think in the olden days, before Van sold the pre-formed weights,
>people would mix lead shot in epoxy and pour it in place. Maybe you
>could try that....
Yep, that was in the instructions for the elevators on the -6. Except the
Manual advised to pour molten lead and to line the corners of the cavity
where the lead is poured with aluminum foil beforehand (to prevent molten
lead from pouring out of seems) Don't know if the -7 elevators have an angle
of aluminum across the width of the area where the lead goes, to act as a
dam, but this could be easily added if you intend to go this way. The kit
even provided four 1/4-20 hardware bolts to install (2 per elevator) to pour
the lead around them.The dam was positioned 3" aft from the forard end of
the counter weight arm and I found that the resulting balance was a tad
heavy when the cavity was filled to the brim with lead. Easy to drill holes
to get balance right after painting.
(Sometimes design changes to make things easier don't work out that way!)
Cheers!!----Henry Hore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Streit <wooody04(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming Alternator Update |
Ronnie, How many amp output is that alternator?
Jim Streit
90073
fuse
Ronnie Brown wrote:
>
>
>I found and fixed my alternator problem. There was a broken wire between the
field slip ring and the field winding. I added a U shaped piece of wire to reach
beyond the broken end of the field wire and soldered it back together. It
worked fine for one hour yesterday.
>
>Here's what I found out while researching this problem:
>
>My alternator is made by Hitachi and used on 81-87 Mazda (probably not RX-7's)
per NAPA parts manual and does not have an internal voltage regulator. I have
a VR-600 solid state regulator mounted on the firewall. Don George built my Lycoming
IO360C1C and says he obtained my alternator from AirTec at 1-800-366-4746.
They supply non- certified alternators for the homebuilt crowd.
>
>Also, someone says the Velocity factory sells an internally regulated alternator
for $200
>
>I also got an email from
>
>
>| Hi Ronnie,
>| I think the actual P/N of the alternator you may have is a Mitsubishi
>| 186-0355 or 14700. It may help in your quest for brushes! If you need a
>| replacement we sell the complete set up: belt, alt. mounts brackets and
>| hardware for $245.00. I agree expensive by automotive standards!
>| Good Luck,
>| Mahlon
>|
>
>Mahlon also sent the following:
>
>
>| Hi Ronnie,
>| It depends on where your engine came from or what application you are
>| trying to mimic.
>| Pipers used Mopar and Prestolite on O-320's
>| Cessna used Ford on O-320's
>| Beech used Ford and Prestolite on O-320's
>| Can't remember what Bellanca and some of the others used but basically they
>| all used some version of Ford, Prestolite or Mopar. To further complicate
>| things the mounting brackets and ring gear support assemblies were
>| different for each of the installations. IE belt that fit a ford alt.
>| pulley doesn't fit a MOPAR flywheel and same thing for the mounting
>| brackets. You really need to know what brackets and what flywheel you have
>| to make the correct determination of what's the right Alternator. If you
>| let me know what you have I will try to check it out for you On Monday when
>| I am back in the shop. If you are totally confused feel free to call me at
>| 1-800-624-6680 ext 305 and maybe I can better explain verbally.
>| Anyway I hope this helps,
>| Mahlon Russell
>|
>
>From: "Jim and Bev Cone" <jimnbev(at)olypen.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Alternator
>
>
>The Pelican alternator sold by ACS is off of a Chevy Sprint
>Spectrum. It is a small 65 amp alternator that is self regulating and has automatic
>overheat protection that resets when an overheated condition is resolved.
>I have one and it works well.
>
>Jim Cone
>
>Another post from kr shultz" Think it is a Suzuki Samurai 1995 to 2001
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | RE: [SoCAL-RVlist] Carb Ice over the Santa Monicas? Redux |
(very long)
Hi Bruce,
Is the wobble test applicable to a Continental O-200? I'll talk to an AI
about it.
I stuck a valve (I think) on my old C-150 when I reduced power too fast
at high altitude and it backfired in the exhaust a few times before
clearing up but it didn't feel at all like this problem.
Thanks for the idea,
Ed Holyoke
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Gray
> Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2003 10:10 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: [SoCAL-RVlist] Carb Ice over the Santa
Monicas?
> Redux (very long)
>
>
> Do yourself a favor and check the valves for sticking, lead buildup.
Do
> the infamous 'wobble check' service bulletin. It sure sounds like
> sticking valves to me.
>
> Bruce
> www.glasair.org
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Phone Jack Fiber Washers |
>
>All-
>
>If anyone out there has a spare set of phone jack insulating washers, that
>normally come with all of the name brand 4-place intercoms, would you mind
>donating one set (one fiber shoulder washer and one fiber flat
>washer) to the cause
>of my buddy John Hyde's Fokker D7 replica?
>
>I had a few extra from the last three planes I built, but apparently gave
>them away to others over the years. The D7 is a single seater sans
>intercom but
>needs them for the Microair Com mic plug.
>
>TIA
>
>-GV (RV-6A N1GV 648hrs)
>
GV,
If you get stuck, I just successfully made some insulating washers
for a couple of phone jacks I had. I cut off a piece of a snap
bushing to make a plastic bushing for the body of the jack to go in,
and a I made some washers from styrene sheet I found at a hobby
store. Slightly ugly, but the jacks are not in plain sight so I
don't care.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Nolan" <jimnolan(at)insightbb.com> |
| Subject: | Installation Requirements |
Listers,
Is there any knowledgeable FAA type listers that can answer these questions
for me.
1. Can I legally install, test and fill out the evaluation sheet on an IFR GPS
unit without FAA FSDO intervention.
2. Can I legally install, test and sign off a Sensenich prop installation on my
RV-4 / Lycoming engine without FAA FSDO intervention.
3. Can I legally raise the gross weight of my aircraft, test fly, document V speeds
and sign off the change without going thru the FAA FSDO.
The trouble I have is, I get one answer from the FSDO and another from a MIDO
and still another from a DAR. I learned how to read but the interpretation of
the rules by everyone concerned are as different as the interpretations of the
bible.
Jim Nolan
N444JN
May be legal / may not be legal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie & Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | RV-7 fully punched tail left elevator instructions & recovery |
methods
First, let me say that Van's A/C makes wonderful kits & I'm very
grateful that I don't have to mine the ore like the old days.
That said, I'm pretty frustrated with the quality of the instructions
right now.
For those who have gone before me building a 'fully prepunched' -7 tail,
I'm referring to the 11th step on page 6-10 & following steps. After
clecoing & drilling the skin to the skeleton, we are told to, and I
quote, "Disassemble the elevator. Deburr, dimple and prime the parts as
desired." Has anyone followed this direction & been able to complete the
construction of the elevator without paying for a new E606PP trim spar?
Because 3 steps later we are told to machine countersink the top of E606PP.
Thanks,
Charlie
(For those of you who are just starting, be forewarned; this isn't the
first set of inconsistent instructions you will encounter.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com> |
| Subject: | RV-7 fully punched tail left elevator instructions & recovery |
methods
Countersinking is generally reserved for skins over (or including; there
is some debate here) .040". Dimpling is not restricted to .040" and
under, but ya better be able to drive good dimples in the thicker
material . Seriously, there is a grey area where you can make
your own choice. Some people think you get better consistency from
dimpling; others think countersinking makes for better craftsmanship. I
countersunk my .040" skins before I found out I could make the choice.
If I had to do it over, every skin and thin bulkhead would be dimpled;
everything over .040" countersunk.
The plans are often ambiguous because there is more than one correct way
to do things. Because of the possible variations, it is never enough to
rely simply on the plans and instructions; you must also use the
hat/neck seperator. Reading up on construction techniques helps, as
does builder's assistance and Tech Counselors. And Sport Aviation this
month made nice mention of the centers that guide you through the tail
kit to teach you the basics of RV construction.
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - aft side skins going on
First, let me say that Van's A/C makes wonderful kits & I'm very
grateful that I don't have to mine the ore like the old days.
That said, I'm pretty frustrated with the quality of the instructions
right now.
For those who have gone before me building a 'fully prepunched' -7 tail,
I'm referring to the 11th step on page 6-10 & following steps. After
clecoing & drilling the skin to the skeleton, we are told to, and I
quote, "Disassemble the elevator. Deburr, dimple and prime the parts as
desired." Has anyone followed this direction & been able to complete the
construction of the elevator without paying for a new E606PP trim spar?
Because 3 steps later we are told to machine countersink the top of
E606PP.
Thanks,
Charlie
(For those of you who are just starting, be forewarned; this isn't the
first set of inconsistent instructions you will encounter.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Adding lead to elevator counterweights after painting?? |
I remember my golfing days of old when we used lead tape to add a bit of
weight to the back of a golf club. This stuff should work and/or you could
epoxy it in. Take a look at a golf supply house like Golf Works for lead
tape.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
On Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Adding lead to elevator counterweights after
painting??
<elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
>
>
> >I think in the olden days, before Van sold the pre-formed weights,
> >people would mix lead shot in epoxy and pour it in place. Maybe you
> >could try that....
>
> Yep, that was in the instructions for the elevators on the -6. Except the
> Manual advised to pour molten lead and to line the corners of the cavity
> where the lead is poured with aluminum foil beforehand (to prevent molten
> lead from pouring out of seems) Don't know if the -7 elevators have an
angle
> of aluminum across the width of the area where the lead goes, to act as a
> dam, but this could be easily added if you intend to go this way. The kit
> even provided four 1/4-20 hardware bolts to install (2 per elevator) to
pour
> the lead around them.The dam was positioned 3" aft from the forard end of
> the counter weight arm and I found that the resulting balance was a tad
> heavy when the cavity was filled to the brim with lead. Easy to drill
holes
> to get balance right after painting.
>
> (Sometimes design changes to make things easier don't work out that way!)
>
> Cheers!!----Henry Hore
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
Last Thursday I departed into a 500 ft ceiling, flew 2 ILSes, crossed
through a front, and got over an hour of real IFR with the Dynon.
I would be lying if I told you there was not a touch of apprehension
sticking my nose through a front knowing that there would be some bumps
inside. Both the Dynon and the Navaid worked very well.
The heading on the Dynon wanders a little bit sometimes. Not really a
problem, a minor annoyance, I just have to becareful not to chase it. I
havent ripped out the DG yet and in the clouds I was thinking that I may not
get in a hurry to do that...... I am debating whether I would rather have a
DG or a Horizon if I was going to keep the vacuum system..... Dunno......
leaning toward the DG, but I may still take the whole vacuum system out.
I have done a little light IFR in a -6 before, but this is really my first
"real" RV-IFR. I am pleased with how nicely the -4 handles it is really
quick, but it is also fairly stable. The Navaid is a BIG HELP! and so is
the Rocky Encoder altitude alerter. I believe if you can not fly IFR
without an autopilot, you should not fly IFR at all, without the autopilot,
IFR in the -4 I turned of the autopilot for a while and I can do it, but,
without an A/P, you would sure want to keep the fuel in balance, and have
your charts folded before you took off. On a long trip you would get pretty
tired.
I have about 30 hours on the Dynon. So far, sooo gooood.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stanley Blanton" <stanb(at)door.net> |
| Subject: | Installation Requirements |
Jim,
I'm sure you'll get lots of different answers but here's mine.
1. IFR GPS install
No problem / no FSDO
Part 43 of the FARs does not apply per 43.1(b)("This part does not apply to
any aircraft for which an experimental airworthiness certificate has been
issued, unless a different kind of airworthiness certificate had previously
been issued for that aircraft"). This means no 337 is necessary. It could be
argued that compliance with AC 20-138, "Airworthiness Approval of Global
Positioning System (GPS) Navigation Equipment for use as a VFR and IFR
Supplemental Navigation System" is necessary but technically Advisory
Circulars are "advisory". I feel that compliance with the AC is not that
hard and would be a prudent thing to do.
2.Prop install
Maybe a FSDO
You can do the work. FSDO involvement depends on your individual operating
limitations. Older ones required FSDO notification and sign off of any major
change along with a fly-off period as specified by the FSDO. If this is the
case use the FSDO involvement as an oppourtunity to get your operating
limitations changed to the newer type. Newer limitations require only a
logbook entry with a standard fly off period.
3.Gross weight change
Almost certainly a FSDO
At the least the plane would have to be returned to the initial test phase
with the approval of the FSDO.
I would welcome Mike Robertson's input on these questions.
Stan Blanton
Listers,
Is there any knowledgeable FAA type listers that can answer these
questions for me. 1. Can I legally install, test and fill out the evaluation
sheet on an IFR GPS unit without FAA FSDO intervention. 2. Can I legally
install, test and sign off a Sensenich prop installation on my RV-4 /
Lycoming engine without FAA FSDO intervention. 3. Can I legally raise the
gross weight of my aircraft, test fly, document V speeds and sign off the
change without going thru the FAA FSDO.
The trouble I have is, I get one answer from the FSDO and another from a
MIDO and still another from a DAR. I learned how to read but the
interpretation of the rules by everyone concerned are as different as the
interpretations of the bible. Jim Nolan N444JN May be legal / may not be
legal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | flmike <flmike2001(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Phone Jack Fiber Washers |
B & C has them, $0.50 a set.
http://www.bandc.biz/cgi-bin/ez-catalog/cat_display.cgi?24X358218
__________________________________
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Primer performance & edge finishing - Yes I checked the archives |
& not trying to start a primer war
I researched all the primer issues I could find and made my decision a while
back but I thought it was worth checking back one more time.
I'm curious about how well all the different primer methods are holding out
in the real world. Most of the responses in the archives deal with what
people were planning to use as they were building.
What I'd like to know is:
What method/system did you use?
How long has your RV been flying?
What part of the world you're in - near salt/fresh water/next to a coal
burning plant, hangered/outside?
How well is your primer performing?
If you had to do it over what would you do differently?
Also, how anal were you in finishing/deburring/rounding off the edges of all
the ribs, spars and skins and have you had any cracking issues that make you
wish you had been more anal?
Brett Morawski
8 (8A?) emp ready to prime, wing ordered
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-7 fully punched tail left elevator instructions & recovery |
methods
| From: | "" <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com> |
Charlie,
I did the exact same thing. They have you c-sink the elevator trim tab spar (606)
so that you don't have to do anything to the hinge (I am told it gets wavy
if you dimple it). To fix mine, I ended up leaving the dimple in the top of
the 606 and just c-sinking the hinge (rather than dimpling it). I just finished
it up, and I do not think it would have come out any nicer the other way.
I agree on the instructions...some of them have steps out of order. I have started
reading ahead a little bit before starting any section, and that seems to
help.
Scott
7A Emp/Wings
--- On Sun 09/14, Charlie & Tupper England < cengland(at)netdoor.com > wrote:
From: Charlie & Tupper England [mailto: cengland(at)netdoor.com]
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 19:55:07 -0500
Subject: RV-List: RV-7 fully punched tail left elevator instructions & recovery
methods
First, let me say that Van's A/C makes wonderful kits & I'm very
grateful that I don't have to mine the ore like the old days.
That said, I'm pretty frustrated with the quality of the instructions
right now.
For those who have gone before me building a 'fully prepunched' -7 tail,
I'm referring to the 11th step on page 6-10 & following steps. After
clecoing & drilling the skin to the skeleton, we are told to, and I
quote, "Disassemble the elevator. Deburr, dimple and prime the parts as
desired." Has anyone followed this direction & been able to complete the
construction of the elevator without paying for a new E606PP trim spar?
Because 3 steps later we are told to machine countersink the top of E606PP.
Thanks,
Charlie
(For those of you who are just starting, be forewarned; this isn't the
first set of inconsistent instructions you will encounter.)
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Hodgson" <bob(at)hodgson252.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | RE: [SoCAL-RVlist] Carb Ice over the Santa Monicas? |
Ed,
Magneto switch?
If fuel system OK, suspect ignition. But there's 8 plugs and 2 mags, and
you're
losing all power intermittently with both mags on. Common point in ign.
system is
mag switch. May be loose connection in the switch causing trouble only in
thinner air at
altitude?? Were the successful test flights at low altitude?
FWIW - I'm no engineer but as the List Experts haven't solved this yet, I
thought I would throw this in!
Bob
UK - RV3B (canopy)
----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net>
> Subject: RV-List: RE: [SoCAL-RVlist] Carb Ice over the Santa Monicas?
Redux (very long)
>
> Today I loaded it up and headed out to Oceano. Stopped for 80 octane at
> SZP and continued. Over Lake Cachuma and at 6500 ft I noticed some
> roughness and about 50 rpm drop. The carb ice detector was not sounding
> (and it's not shy- it's gone off several times during runup and power
> reductions). I pulled carb heat anyway and went full throttle. The rpm
> degraded some more and then seemed to recover slightly then dropped to
> 1500 and immediately came back up to about 2500. It them proceeded to
> cycle back and forth between 2500 and 1500 continuously. I experimented
> with throttle, carb heat and mixture and was unable to find a sweet spot
> where it would run normally. The mixture control did have an effect on
> rpm as did the carb heat. If I pulled the throttle back to about 1600,
> it seemed to run OK, but more throttle put it back in cycling mode. By
> this time I was over Santa Ynez at about 4000' and, low and behold it
> seemed to run fine at any throttle setting. I landed.
>
> >
> > Carb ice is a convenient diagnosis, but I'm freaked out by the way it
> > surged to full power and back to nothing and then died only to return
> to
> > (apparently) full power after several minutes of gliding. In
> retrospect,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Primer performance & edge finishing - Yes I checked the archives |
& not trying to start a primer war
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brett Morawski" <brett.morawski@buckeye-express.com>
Subject: RV-List: Primer performance & edge finishing - Yes I checked the
archives & not trying to start a primer war
<brett.morawski@buckeye-express.com>
>
> I researched all the primer issues I could find and made my decision a
while
> back but I thought it was worth checking back one more time.
>
> I'm curious about how well all the different primer methods are holding
out
> in the real world. Most of the responses in the archives deal with what
> people were planning to use as they were building.
>
> What I'd like to know is:
>
> What method/system did you use?
I primed, at a minimum, at least one of two inside surfaces where two metal
parts came together. I used DP40LF.
>
> How long has your RV been flying?
Hope to be flying in 6-8 months.
>
> What part of the world you're in - near salt/fresh water/next to a coal
> burning plant, hangered/outside?
I plan to keep plane indoors in hanger and I live in southern Indiana with
moderate temps and somewhat sweltering humidity at times in the summer.
>
> How well is your primer performing?
It DPnnLF is tuff stuff and two part epoxy mix. Key is to clean and prepare
the metal before spraying on the primer. Lots of info in archives about
this process so I won't redo that.
>
> If you had to do it over what would you do differently?
Priming takes a lot of time doing it my way. If I were doing it over, I'd
identify all the parts that are not alclad finished and prime them as soon
as my parts arrived and get most of it done right up front before
fabricating to finished size.
>
> Also, how anal were you in finishing/deburring/rounding off the edges of
all
> the ribs, spars and skins and have you had any cracking issues that make
you
> wish you had been more anal?
I assume you mean conscientious. I try to be very attentive to smoothing
all edges, and sharp corners and smoothing inside corners. Filing,
deburring, and the sand/emory wheeling all edges makes a nicer and safer
plane and a bit lighter too.
>
>
> Brett Morawski
> 8 (8A?) emp ready to prime, wing ordered
Hope this helps and contributes to our cause. Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up
TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
On Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Brown" <scottbrown(at)precisionjet.com> |
| Subject: | JON JOHANSEN SEATS |
Listers,
I have a pair of new Jon Johansen seats for sale. I will sell them for their
cost, and I will pick up the shipping. I purchased them for $450 each.
Please respond offline...Thanks!
Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clayton Henderson" <gsuit(at)eonet.net> |
| Subject: | RV-7 fully punched tail left elevator instructions & recovery |
methods
Charlie,
I almost did the same thing. Since then, my sequence of building
involves using the instructions as the order to do things (not always in
the best order) and the plans for what to do. When you get to the
fuselage you almost HAVE to do it this way or you will miss much.
Clayton Henderson
RV-7 Fuselage
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie &
Tupper England
Subject: RV-List: RV-7 fully punched tail left elevator instructions &
recovery methods
First, let me say that Van's A/C makes wonderful kits & I'm very
grateful that I don't have to mine the ore like the old days.
That said, I'm pretty frustrated with the quality of the instructions
right now.
For those who have gone before me building a 'fully prepunched' -7 tail,
I'm referring to the 11th step on page 6-10 & following steps. After
clecoing & drilling the skin to the skeleton, we are told to, and I
quote, "Disassemble the elevator. Deburr, dimple and prime the parts as
desired." Has anyone followed this direction & been able to complete the
construction of the elevator without paying for a new E606PP trim spar?
Because 3 steps later we are told to machine countersink the top of
E606PP.
Thanks,
Charlie
(For those of you who are just starting, be forewarned; this isn't the
first set of inconsistent instructions you will encounter.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <panamared2(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: More Dynon IFR |
>The heading on the Dynon wanders a little bit sometimes. Not really a
>problem, a minor annoyance, I just have to becareful not to chase it. I
>havent ripped out the DG yet and in the clouds I was thinking that I may not
>get in a hurry to do that...... I am debating whether I would rather have a
>DG or a Horizon if I was going to keep the vacuum system..... Dunno......
>leaning toward the DG, but I may still take the whole vacuum system out.
Doug
What about using a GPS for a back up instead of a DG?
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: F-1 Rocket Quickbuild for sale |
I concur!!
Mike Robertson
Das Fed
>From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: F-1 Rocket Quickbuild for sale
>Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 10:13:27 -0500
>
>
>Work done has NO bearing on 51% rule... NONE!
>Cy Galley
>Editor, EAA Safety Programs
>cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Nate" <nateaf(at)earthlink.net>
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: F-1 Rocket Quickbuild for sale
>
>
> >
> > Interested in a RV-4 or RV-8? The F-1 Rocket is another tandem 2-seater
>but with a lot more performance. I am selling kit #111 with the tailkit
>for
>$31,500. There is no work done so there should be no problem with the 51%
>rule. If you would like more information on the F-1, visit
>http://www.teamrocketaircraft.com/.
> >
> > Contact info: E-mail nateaf(at)hotmail.com
> > Phone: 310-416-1686
> > Location: Los Angeles
> >
> > Nate Elliott
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Installation Requirements |
Jim,
You need to first look at your aircraft's Operating Limitations. If the Ops
Limits are more than a couple of years old they probably state that you need
FAA approval prior to incorporating any major changes. If they are newer
then they proobably state that you can make the major change yourself, place
the aircraft back into Phase 1 test flying for a minimum of 5 hours, and
sign that off when done. That is the bottom line. Whatever YOUR Ops Limits
state is what it is.
However, If you have the older Ops Limits you can get them amended to the
newer style by simply applying to your local FSDO for them.
If you have any questions give me a call at (503) 681-5537.
Mike Robertson
Das Fed
>From: "Jim Nolan" <jimnolan(at)insightbb.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "RV List"
>Subject: RV-List: Installation Requirements
>Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 04:37:34 -0500
>
>
>Listers,
> Is there any knowledgeable FAA type listers that can answer these
>questions for me.
>1. Can I legally install, test and fill out the evaluation sheet on an IFR
>GPS unit without FAA FSDO intervention.
>2. Can I legally install, test and sign off a Sensenich prop installation
>on my RV-4 / Lycoming engine without FAA FSDO intervention.
>3. Can I legally raise the gross weight of my aircraft, test fly, document
>V speeds and sign off the change without going thru the FAA FSDO.
> The trouble I have is, I get one answer from the FSDO and another from a
>MIDO and still another from a DAR. I learned how to read but the
>interpretation of the rules by everyone concerned are as different as the
>interpretations of the bible.
>Jim Nolan
>N444JN
>May be legal / may not be legal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steven Eberhart <newtech(at)newtech.com> |
| Subject: | Dynon for VFR panel, was: More Dynon IFR |
The Dynon unit has gotten a lot of discussion going. I am building my
RV-7A as a VFR fun machine. May be IFR later but initially VFR only.
The Dynon with the magnatometer gives me everything I need to be VFR
legal, I think. Altitude, airspeed, compass, needle and ball plus a lot
more. If I loose the dynon then I would like something that is going to
let me know when I am getting close to a stall in the landing
configuration and an indication of what direction I am flying. For
everything else I can just look outside. I know about what pattern
altitude looks like and as long as I am not stalling, exactly how fast I
am going is a luxury.
My panel is going to consist of a Dynon with magnatometer, separate
angle of attack with the indicator mounted on top of the glare shield.
The angle of attack is the backup for the airspeed indicator and a GPS
is the backup for the compass and altimeter. I could be talked into a
basic needle and ball but it currently isn't in the plans.
I don't see where I need a belt and suspenders and duct tape just to
hold up my pants :-)
Steve Eberhart
RV-7A - building ailerons
Bob wrote:
>
>
>>The heading on the Dynon wanders a little bit sometimes. Not really a
>>problem, a minor annoyance, I just have to becareful not to chase it. I
>>havent ripped out the DG yet and in the clouds I was thinking that I may not
>>get in a hurry to do that...... I am debating whether I would rather have a
>>DG or a Horizon if I was going to keep the vacuum system..... Dunno......
>>leaning toward the DG, but I may still take the whole vacuum system out.
>
>
> Doug
>
> What about using a GPS for a back up instead of a DG?
>
> Bob
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Painting metallics |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Guys,
What's the trick to painting single-stage metallics and getting the flakes to lay
down in a uniform fashion? The only metallic I'm using on my plane is a single-stage
silver (SherWill Genesis) that I'm applying to the leading edges of
the wings, empennage, and flaps. The first thing I sprayed was the empennage
leading edges. Per the recommendation of a local paint guy, I sprayed two coats--the
first coat was across (perpendicular to) the leading edge, wait 10 mins
for it to tack up, and the second coat was along the leading edge (i.e. a 90
degree cross coat to the first coat). This was on the empennage with the parts
hanging in the booth LE down. Great results.
Couple days ago I sprayed silver on the "LE" of my flaps (the part that will get
covered by UHMW). I did everything the same as on the empennage except the
parts were laying flat on sawhorses. This time the flakes look weird....kinda
splotchy with an uneven pattern. Wondering if painting it on a vertical surface
helps "align" the flakes better due to the tug of gravity than on a horizontal
surface where they seem to just lay as the fell? Anybody with metallic painting
experience that can offer some insight or suggestions? I still need to
do my wing LE's and want them to look good...
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D painting...learning everything the hard way...
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon for VFR panel, was: More Dynon IFR |
Steven Eberhart wrote:
>
>
> The Dynon unit has gotten a lot of discussion going. I am building my
> RV-7A as a VFR fun machine. May be IFR later but initially VFR only.
> The Dynon with the magnatometer gives me everything I need to be VFR
> legal, I think. Altitude, airspeed, compass, needle and ball plus a lot
> more. If I loose the dynon then I would like something that is going to
> let me know when I am getting close to a stall in the landing
> configuration and an indication of what direction I am flying. For
> everything else I can just look outside. I know about what pattern
> altitude looks like and as long as I am not stalling, exactly how fast I
> am going is a luxury.
>
> My panel is going to consist of a Dynon with magnatometer, separate
> angle of attack with the indicator mounted on top of the glare shield.
> The angle of attack is the backup for the airspeed indicator and a GPS
> is the backup for the compass and altimeter. I could be talked into a
> basic needle and ball but it currently isn't in the plans.
>
> I don't see where I need a belt and suspenders and duct tape just to
> hold up my pants :-)
>
> Steve Eberhart
> RV-7A - building ailerons
Steve, add the Rocky Mountain uMonitor for engine instruments and you
will have everything you need for **daytime VFR** in two instruments. A
GPS will provide everything you need for Dynon backup.
Cool!
Wait until you hear the comments at pancake breakfasts when they see
your empty panel.... ;-)
Sam Buchanan (Dynon arriving in a couple of hours)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Primer Selection (was "Primer performance & edge finishing") |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Hi Brett,
I have never added to the primer wars before but I have been a victim of some of
the misguidance from the List (shame on me). I can't answer all your specific
questions because I'm not flying yet, but I am painting, and having done plenty
of research for painting I can offer a bit of insight on what I've learned
about primers FWIW to those who are just getting started (and how I would do
it over if I had the opportunity). All this information about primers is available
by talking to paint companies (Dupont, Sherwin Willims, PPG, etc) or reading
their spec sheets on the internet. Problem is most of us don't do that until
we're at the finishing end of the project, so a lot of interior primer decisions
are made based on hearsay or what somebody else used.
I used a self-etching primer on all interior areas of my airplane because that's
what "worked" for many others on the RV List and it was easy and inexpensive.
Based on what I've learned since then, I think it's mostly a waste of time
and money and just adds weight for a very marginal corrosion protection benefit.
The main purpose of self-etching primers is to clean (etch) the metal really
well for a good "bite" over which you must paint a sealing primer (usually
an epoxy primer) if you want to provide real corrosion protection. The epoxy
primer will seal out moisture and salts and other nasties that try to attack the
aluminum. The self-etching primers (any brand that I'm aware of) are NOT sealing
primers...this is pretty obvious from reading the data sheets. In fact
the Sherwin Williams self-etching primer says to recoat the product with a sealer
within 4 hours if you want it to do any good, otherwise you must reprime
with self-etching before sealing with a topcoat. If anyone is aware of a spec
sheet for a self-etching primer that specifically calls out good stand-alone
corrosion resistance *without recoating using a sealer* I would sure like to know
about it (and would recommend using such a product if it existed). There
are some epoxy primers that are DTM (direct-to-metal) which don't require a self-etching
primer underneath. If you MUST coat everything with primer and you
only want one coat, I'd use an epoxy DTM if I had to do it over. Main disadvantages
to this is cost and weight...the Sherwin Williams epoxy DTM primer I'm
using on the outside of the airplane is 3-4 times the cost of the self-etching
primer, and it also goes on a bit thicker (and I think you get what you pay
for in terms of corrosion resistance).
All that said...if I *really* had to do it over...I would hit the rivet seams with
epoxy DTM primer (any leading brand), leave the rest of the interior plain
ol' alcad, and put it together. Lots of spam cans flying around with plain unprimed
alclad interiors that were built 50 years ago and are still airworthy.
Most serious corrosion you see is in joints where moisture and dirt get stuck
and attack the metal (hence the benefit of epoxy DTM primer in these areas)...a
*very light* surface oxidation on alclad is doesn't do any structural harm
and is common on interior skins of aformentioned spam. If I lived in a really
corrosive environment (i.e. near saltwater) I would etch and alodine the interior
before priming the joints. Etch/Alodine adds no weight and offers good
surface corrosion protection. If I were building a seaplane and wanted the absolute
best corrosion protection at minimum weight and no expenses spared, I would
etch, alodine and then use epoxy DTM sealing primer over the entire interior
surface. That's about as good as it gets from my research.
Humbled by painting,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D still stuck in painting hell...
From: "Brett Morawski" <brett.morawski@buckeye-express.com>
Subject: RV-List: Primer performance & edge finishing - Yes I checked the archives
& not trying to start a primer war
I researched all the primer issues I could find and made my decision a while
back but I thought it was worth checking back one more time.
I'm curious about how well all the different primer methods are holding out
in the real world. Most of the responses in the archives deal with what
people were planning to use as they were building.
What I'd like to know is:
What method/system did you use?
How long has your RV been flying?
What part of the world you're in - near salt/fresh water/next to a coal
burning plant, hangered/outside?
How well is your primer performing?
If you had to do it over what would you do differently?
Also, how anal were you in finishing/deburring/rounding off the edges of all
the ribs, spars and skins and have you had any cracking issues that make you
wish you had been more anal?
Brett Morawski
8 (8A?) emp ready to prime, wing ordered
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
| Subject: | Installation requirements |
The requirement for FAA FSDO involvment depends entirely upon your operating
limitations.
The changes you suggested are probably going to be considered major
alterations by most FSDOs so your limitations may call for either 5 hours
fly off with log book entry or they may call for a reissue of the special
airworthiness cert operating limitations to include the changes. If the
latter, have your cert operating limits updated to include the 5 hour fly
off version.
In any event it doesn't matter what interpretations you hear about, it only
matters that you follow the interpretation of the FAA entity you are doing
business with. These changes should be able to be handled by your local FSDO
so ask them what they want, before you make the changes.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | paint weight and coats required |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Guys,
I thought I'd offer some insight for those of you who are interested in saving
weight on your paint job. I have learned (again, the hard way) that for a given
color, certain paint brands cover (or "hide") better than others, and from
a weight/time/money standpoint, obviously the fewer coats it takes to cover the
plane the better. I knew before I started painting that some colors tend to
need more coats than others....for example I've heard that yellow airplanes tend
to be a bit heavier (or is this hearsay??) due to more coats needed.
Anyway my paint scheme (T-6A JPATS in USAF markings) is mostly blue and white with
red stripe. I am using Sherwin Williams Genesis series which is an acrylic
urethane (designed to replace the Sunfire acrylic urethane series). I picked
the Genesis paint over DuPont Imron 5000 (the two offerings from my local paint
shop) because it is a bit less expensive and easier to buff out any small
flaws. Being a novice painter I thought this was a good thing. But the downside
I've discovered is that the single-stage dark blue color that I'm using requires
at least 3 wet coats to get full color coverage. This is over a grey primer,
and I might get by with only two coats using a black or dark blue tinted
primer. Anyway it's a real bummer because it takes more time and most of all
adds WEIGHT. I've tried to keep my airplane light so this is discouraging.
Several people I've talked to who've used dark blue DuPont Imron or PPG Concept
have said they only needed 1-2 coats. Dave Wilson for example (who's nice
USAF-themed red/white/blue RV-8 was featured a few weeks ago in RV of the Week)
told me he only needed a single coat of each color, with PPG Concept). If
I had known this, I'd have used Imron or Concept instead of Genesis just for weight
savings, and ironically, might even save money since less paint is required
(even though Imron is more expensive than Genesis).
The twist according to local painters I've talked to is that while this is true
for dark blue, it may be just the opposite for a different color. For example,
I was told that red Imron doesn't cover as well as red Genesis. Ah, too bad
my whole airplane isn't red instead of just the stripe : )
The one and only advantage to using 3 coats of dark blue Genesis is that it does
have great "depth"....a really nice wet look with a single-stage paint that
if buffed out would probably rival a 2-stage (clearcoat). But the reason I would
not clearcoat an airplane--or use dark blue Genesis again--is because IMHO
the weight gain and expense and time to apply is not worth the slightly nicer
looks you get compared to using minimal coats of a good-hiding single-stage paint.
Why didn't somebody tell me all this before I started? : )
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D painting....crying....painting....whining...
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | michael michael <top_gun_toronto(at)yahoo.ca> |
| Subject: | gear leg weight RV steel rods |
Dear fellow RV builders.
I dont have the Fues kit yet. I`m working on the wing. I was wondering if anyone
out there knows the weight of the landing gear legs. Just the steel rods themselves
with no extras....I looked in the archives & couldnt find anything about
this, just listings for CG related stuff.
thanks
Michael
RV-7
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Folks,
I have two things to report.
First, the AOA indicator correctly indicates a stall when nose down inverted
in a split S. Its kinda cool because the plane falls upwards then falls down
and starts flying again. I didn't do this more than once as I don't know
that this manuvere is not the safest one as it could be how one gets into an
inverted flat spin. But the AOA was right on as it didn't stall until in the
red. Its also kinda cool to be pointed almost straight down inverted and be
just above stall speed hanging there for a few moments.
Second thing, I finally had the time to move the compass module to a
location in the right wing where the landing light would go if one were
there. It has been a real excercise to find a location that is more than 12"
away from any wire or iron in this plane.
Getting the angles right was also a bear. Aluminum was too flimsy and
changed as one tightened things, so I used two peices of 2"x5"x3/4" spruce.
The bottom peice I used to establish the longitudinal axis, and the top
peice established the lateral axis. It was very difficult to get both axis
sanded into one piece. The top piece then has four SS flush machine screws
sticking up threw it before being bonded to the bottom peice. (Use a magnet
to test your SS hardware as I found some SS hardware that was magnetic) The
assembly was then bonded to the inside skin just aft of the leading edge.
This got it within 0.3deg on both axis, and I final trimed it with mylar
tape shims.
The module is then held in place with the 1" nylon standoff type nuts found
in electronic supply stores as they are very easy to get to inside that dark
hole. I also found a 9 pin RS232 type connector made out of plastic at
frys. Its the type that traps and wedges the wires, IDC-9F-Blue female Frys
# 1655696. I then used nylon screws to attach it. This type of connector has
no support for the wires so be sure to secure it with one of the mounting
nuts for the unit.
I didn't have time to test fly it or calibrate it with a compass rose, but I
did recalibrate it to the steam compass and current inclination for my
airport and it seemed to be right on for the four major points.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
| Subject: | New SPAM and Virus Filtering Appliance At Matronics... |
Dear Listers,
I will be installing a new SPAM and virus blocking appliance this
evening or tomorrow. The installation will involve some changes
in the Matronics DNS MX records, and will impact how incoming
email is handled. While I expect these changes to be transparent
to all of the List subscribers, things might go differently... ;-)
The Lists get bombarded with tons of SPAM messages and viruses
each day and fortunately my custom filters have been extremely
effective at filtering most of this from redistribution. Its
time to move to the next level of technology, however, and this
SPAM and Virus filtering appliance seems like an excellent
solution.
I will post a follow up message later in the week when things
have stabilized and I have some filter statistics to share.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Dynon for VFR panel, was: More Dynon IFR |
AMEN Guys!
There are actually people doing just that. My current project is just about
as minimal as you can get. Here's my panel:
Dynon Efis
Garmin 196
IK-2000 Engine Monitor
UPSAT TXPDR
ICOM Radio
It's probably the most bare RV6 panel I've ever seen, but it should be
simple, light, and FAST! Oops, almost forgot to mention, my "filler" on the
right side of the panel is a flush mounted map box, but nothing else!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
http://www.steinair.com
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Steve, add the Rocky Mountain uMonitor for engine instruments and you
will have everything you need for **daytime VFR** in two instruments. A
GPS will provide everything you need for Dynon backup.
Cool!
Wait until you hear the comments at pancake breakfasts when they see
your empty panel.... ;-)
Sam Buchanan (Dynon arriving in a couple of hours)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <panamared2(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Installation Requirements |
>2. Can I legally install, test and sign off a Sensenich prop installation
>on my RV-4 / Lycoming engine without FAA FSDO intervention.
Check your operating limitations that the FAA gives you when they sign off
the A/C. Mine state any major mods (this includes prop), I have to
document in the A/C log and return to the "original" test area, as outline
in the operating limitations and fly 5 test hours and document the results.
>3. Can I legally raise the gross weight of my aircraft, test fly, document
>V speeds and sign off the change without going thru the FAA FSDO.
If you look hard enough, you will find someone who will give you the answer
that you want. IMO, the answer is no. This is a really complicated
area. My FSDO inspector would not allow me to increase my gross weight
above the stated gross weight in the builders manual. I pointed out that
others had done so with no problems. He asked me if I thought I was
smarter than the designer (Van), did I have any engineering evaluations to
support my request? Then he told me, that in a previous life he had been
an A/C insurance accident investigator. His job was to find a reason why
the insurance company did not have to pay (violations of the FAR, no
medical, A/C maintenance problems etc.). He called Vans aircraft asking
them for a letter that stated the A/C could be safely flown at a higher
gross weight, Van flatly refused to issue a letter. He told me that in his
opinion, changing the gross weight would be a real insurance debate, but
only after the accident, not to mention lawsuits from the injured
parties. At this time I read between the lines, If I wanted my aircraft to
get signed off, I would keep the designed gross weight, and he pointed out
that it is difficult to establish the exact weight of an aircraft after a
crash. Of course there are other ways around the gross weight problem
without documenting it. NOTE: he never told me I could fly above gross
weight.
> The trouble I have is, I get one answer from the FSDO and another from
> a MIDO and still another from a DAR. I learned how to read but the
> interpretation of the rules by everyone concerned are as different as the
> interpretations of the bible.
You can do anything you want until you get caught and have to pay the
consequences. As my Uncle who was an Air Force Flight Safety Officer told
me when I was complaining about the FAA Regs "The Regs are written in BLOOD!"
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Primer Selection (was "Primer performance & edge |
finishing")
I talked to vans a while back and one of the guys there mentioned just
using the selfetching primer with the top coat, keeps things really light
this way. Reading about all this protection, isnt that what the top coat is
for?
>
>
>Hi Brett,
>
>I have never added to the primer wars before but I have been a victim of
>some of the misguidance from the List (shame on me). I can't answer all
>your specific questions because I'm not flying yet, but I am painting, and
>having done plenty of research for painting I can offer a bit of insight on
>what I've learned about primers FWIW to those who are just getting started
>(and how I would do it over if I had the opportunity). All this information
>about primers is available by talking to paint companies (Dupont, Sherwin
>Willims, PPG, etc) or reading their spec sheets on the internet. Problem is
>most of us don't do that until we're at the finishing end of the project, so
>a lot of interior primer decisions are made based on hearsay or what
>somebody else used.
>
>I used a self-etching primer on all interior areas of my airplane because
>that's what "worked" for many others on the RV List and it was easy and
>inexpensive. Based on what I've learned since then, I think it's mostly a
>waste of time and money and just adds weight for a very marginal corrosion
>protection benefit. The main purpose of self-etching primers is to clean
>(etch) the metal really well for a good "bite" over which you must paint a
>sealing primer (usually an epoxy primer) if you want to provide real
>corrosion protection. The epoxy primer will seal out moisture and salts and
>other nasties that try to attack the aluminum. The self-etching primers
>(any brand that I'm aware of) are NOT sealing primers...this is pretty
>obvious from reading the data sheets. In fact the Sherwin Williams
>self-etching primer says to recoat the product with a sealer within 4 hours
>if you want it to do any good, otherwise you must reprime with self-etching
>before sealing with a topcoat. If!
> anyone is aware of a spec sheet for a self-etching primer that specifically
>calls out good stand-alone corrosion resistance *without recoating using a
>sealer* I would sure like to know about it (and would recommend using such a
>product if it existed). There are some epoxy primers that are DTM
>(direct-to-metal) which don't require a self-etching primer underneath. If
>you MUST coat everything with primer and you only want one coat, I'd use an
>epoxy DTM if I had to do it over. Main disadvantages to this is cost and
>weight...the Sherwin Williams epoxy DTM primer I'm using on the outside of
>the airplane is 3-4 times the cost of the self-etching primer, and it also
>goes on a bit thicker (and I think you get what you pay for in terms of
>corrosion resistance).
>
>All that said...if I *really* had to do it over...I would hit the rivet
>seams with epoxy DTM primer (any leading brand), leave the rest of the
>interior plain ol' alcad, and put it together. Lots of spam cans flying
>around with plain unprimed alclad interiors that were built 50 years ago and
>are still airworthy. Most serious corrosion you see is in joints where
>moisture and dirt get stuck and attack the metal (hence the benefit of epoxy
>DTM primer in these areas)...a *very light* surface oxidation on alclad is
>doesn't do any structural harm and is common on interior skins of
>aformentioned spam. If I lived in a really corrosive environment (i.e. near
>saltwater) I would etch and alodine the interior before priming the joints.
>Etch/Alodine adds no weight and offers good surface corrosion protection.
>If I were building a seaplane and wanted the absolute best corrosion
>protection at minimum weight and no expenses spared, I would etch, alodine
>and then use epoxy DTM sealing pr!
>imer over the entire interior surface. That's about as good as it gets from
>my research.
>
>Humbled by painting,
>
>--Mark Navratil
>Cedar Rapids, Iowa
>RV-8A N2D still stuck in painting hell...
>
>
>From: "Brett Morawski" <brett.morawski@buckeye-express.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Primer performance & edge finishing - Yes I checked the
>archives
>& not trying to start a primer war
>
><brett.morawski@buckeye-express.com>
>
>I researched all the primer issues I could find and made my decision a while
>back but I thought it was worth checking back one more time.
>
>I'm curious about how well all the different primer methods are holding out
>in the real world. Most of the responses in the archives deal with what
>people were planning to use as they were building.
>
>What I'd like to know is:
>
> What method/system did you use?
>
> How long has your RV been flying?
>
> What part of the world you're in - near salt/fresh water/next to a coal
>burning plant, hangered/outside?
>
> How well is your primer performing?
>
> If you had to do it over what would you do differently?
>
>Also, how anal were you in finishing/deburring/rounding off the edges of all
>the ribs, spars and skins and have you had any cracking issues that make you
>wish you had been more anal?
>
>
>Brett Morawski
>8 (8A?) emp ready to prime, wing ordered
>
>The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
>Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Crosley, Rich" <RCROSLEY(at)HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM> |
The Lasar ignition requires a RPM input. Does the Van's tach work with the
Lasar system directly or is some modification required?
Rich Crosley, RV-8
Palmdale, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Primer Selection (was "Primer performance & edge finishing") |
That's what I did and it is working just fine... PPG DX1791 wash primer
under DCC Concept. After 3 years and 350 hrs I have no adhesion problems at
all. See www.rv-8.com/Paint.htm for the materials and techniques I used.
Randy Lervold
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Bilinski" <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Primer Selection (was "Primer performance & edge
finishing")
<bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
> I talked to vans a while back and one of the guys there mentioned just
> using the selfetching primer with the top coat, keeps things really light
> this way. Reading about all this protection, isnt that what the top coat
is
> for?
>
>
> >
> >
> >Hi Brett,
> >
> >I have never added to the primer wars before but I have been a victim of
> >some of the misguidance from the List (shame on me). I can't answer all
> >your specific questions because I'm not flying yet, but I am painting,
and
> >having done plenty of research for painting I can offer a bit of insight
on
> >what I've learned about primers FWIW to those who are just getting
started
> >(and how I would do it over if I had the opportunity). All this
information
> >about primers is available by talking to paint companies (Dupont, Sherwin
> >Willims, PPG, etc) or reading their spec sheets on the internet. Problem
is
> >most of us don't do that until we're at the finishing end of the project,
so
> >a lot of interior primer decisions are made based on hearsay or what
> >somebody else used.
> >
> >I used a self-etching primer on all interior areas of my airplane because
> >that's what "worked" for many others on the RV List and it was easy and
> >inexpensive. Based on what I've learned since then, I think it's mostly
a
> >waste of time and money and just adds weight for a very marginal
corrosion
> >protection benefit. The main purpose of self-etching primers is to clean
> >(etch) the metal really well for a good "bite" over which you must paint
a
> >sealing primer (usually an epoxy primer) if you want to provide real
> >corrosion protection. The epoxy primer will seal out moisture and salts
and
> >other nasties that try to attack the aluminum. The self-etching primers
> >(any brand that I'm aware of) are NOT sealing primers...this is pretty
> >obvious from reading the data sheets. In fact the Sherwin Williams
> >self-etching primer says to recoat the product with a sealer within 4
hours
> >if you want it to do any good, otherwise you must reprime with
self-etching
> >before sealing with a topcoat. If!
> > anyone is aware of a spec sheet for a self-etching primer that
specifically
> >calls out good stand-alone corrosion resistance *without recoating using
a
> >sealer* I would sure like to know about it (and would recommend using
such a
> >product if it existed). There are some epoxy primers that are DTM
> >(direct-to-metal) which don't require a self-etching primer underneath.
If
> >you MUST coat everything with primer and you only want one coat, I'd use
an
> >epoxy DTM if I had to do it over. Main disadvantages to this is cost and
> >weight...the Sherwin Williams epoxy DTM primer I'm using on the outside
of
> >the airplane is 3-4 times the cost of the self-etching primer, and it
also
> >goes on a bit thicker (and I think you get what you pay for in terms of
> >corrosion resistance).
> >
> >All that said...if I *really* had to do it over...I would hit the rivet
> >seams with epoxy DTM primer (any leading brand), leave the rest of the
> >interior plain ol' alcad, and put it together. Lots of spam cans flying
> >around with plain unprimed alclad interiors that were built 50 years ago
and
> >are still airworthy. Most serious corrosion you see is in joints where
> >moisture and dirt get stuck and attack the metal (hence the benefit of
epoxy
> >DTM primer in these areas)...a *very light* surface oxidation on alclad
is
> >doesn't do any structural harm and is common on interior skins of
> >aformentioned spam. If I lived in a really corrosive environment (i.e.
near
> >saltwater) I would etch and alodine the interior before priming the
joints.
> >Etch/Alodine adds no weight and offers good surface corrosion protection.
> >If I were building a seaplane and wanted the absolute best corrosion
> >protection at minimum weight and no expenses spared, I would etch,
alodine
> >and then use epoxy DTM sealing pr!
> >imer over the entire interior surface. That's about as good as it gets
from
> >my research.
> >
> >Humbled by painting,
> >
> >--Mark Navratil
> >Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> >RV-8A N2D still stuck in painting hell...
> >
> >
> >From: "Brett Morawski" <brett.morawski@buckeye-express.com>
> >Subject: RV-List: Primer performance & edge finishing - Yes I checked the
> >archives
> >& not trying to start a primer war
> >
> ><brett.morawski@buckeye-express.com>
> >
> >I researched all the primer issues I could find and made my decision a
while
> >back but I thought it was worth checking back one more time.
> >
> >I'm curious about how well all the different primer methods are holding
out
> >in the real world. Most of the responses in the archives deal with what
> >people were planning to use as they were building.
> >
> >What I'd like to know is:
> >
> > What method/system did you use?
> >
> > How long has your RV been flying?
> >
> > What part of the world you're in - near salt/fresh water/next to a coal
> >burning plant, hangered/outside?
> >
> > How well is your primer performing?
> >
> > If you had to do it over what would you do differently?
> >
> >Also, how anal were you in finishing/deburring/rounding off the edges of
all
> >the ribs, spars and skins and have you had any cracking issues that make
you
> >wish you had been more anal?
> >
> >
> >Brett Morawski
> >8 (8A?) emp ready to prime, wing ordered
> >
> >The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
> >Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
> >
> >
>
>
> Scott Bilinski
> Eng dept 305
> Phone (858) 657-2536
> Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: LASAR QUESTION |
Van's tach uses input from a mechanical transducer connected to the tach
drive -- doesn't take input from the LASAR.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 355 hrs.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Crosley, Rich" <RCROSLEY(at)HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM>
Subject: RV-List: LASAR QUESTION
>
> The Lasar ignition requires a RPM input. Does the Van's tach work with
the
> Lasar system directly or is some modification required?
>
> Rich Crosley, RV-8
> Palmdale, CA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris W <chrisw3(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: gear leg weight RV steel rods |
Just for fun I drew up the gear leg from the RV-6 Preview plans dwg # 45 dated
3/22/99. According to my CAD software (SolidWorks 2001 Plus) There are 78.14
cubic inches of 4140 steel in that gear leg. I don't have a density for 4140
but I generally use .283 lb/in
3 for all steel alloys and that makes it 22.11 lbs.
--
Chris Woodhouse
3147 SW 127th St.
Oklahoma City, OK 73170
405-691-5206
chrisw(at)programmer.net
N35 20.492'
W97 34.342'
"They that can give up essential liberty
to obtain a little temporary safety
deserve neither liberty nor safety."
-- Benjamin Franklin, 1759 Historical Review of Pennsylvania
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Installation Requirements |
>
>>3. Can I legally raise the gross weight of my aircraft, test fly, document
>>V speeds and sign off the change without going thru the FAA FSDO.
>
>If you look hard enough, you will find someone who will give you the answer
>that you want. IMO, the answer is no. This is a really complicated
>area. My FSDO inspector would not allow me to increase my gross weight
>above the stated gross weight in the builders manual. I pointed out that
>others had done so with no problems. He asked me if I thought I was
>smarter than the designer (Van), did I have any engineering evaluations to
>support my request? Then he told me, that in a previous life he had been
>an A/C insurance accident investigator. His job was to find a reason why
>the insurance company did not have to pay (violations of the FAR, no
>medical, A/C maintenance problems etc.). He called Vans aircraft asking
>them for a letter that stated the A/C could be safely flown at a higher
>gross weight, Van flatly refused to issue a letter. He told me that in his
>opinion, changing the gross weight would be a real insurance debate, but
>only after the accident, not to mention lawsuits from the injured
>parties. At this time I read between the lines, If I wanted my aircraft to
>get signed off, I would keep the designed gross weight, and he pointed out
>that it is difficult to establish the exact weight of an aircraft after a
>crash. Of course there are other ways around the gross weight problem
>without documenting it. NOTE: he never told me I could fly above gross
>weight.
>
How does the FSDO decide what gross weight to accept if you design an
aircraft yourself?
If you manage to talk a FSDO into accepting the weight increase, I'm
not sure where insurance enters into it. Does your insurance policy
say you have to abide by Van's recommended gross weight?
But if the insurance people manage to figure out you were flying at a
weight higher than is in your limitations, then that gives them a
golden reason to deny coverage. I wouldn't say it was that hard to
figure out how heavy you were in many cases. The empty weight is
recorded. The weights of the people can probably be established
fairly closely. Luggage etc in the crash can be weighed, unless
there is a fire. If you filled the plane up before the flight the
fuel on board can be estimated fairly closely based on time airborne
before the crash.
If I determined that I was going to fly at XXXX lbs, I would rather
have that value in the operating limitations than not.
I would have thought a weight increase was simply a major mod. Once
you have the operating limitations that allow you to do major mods
without FSDO approval, you could go back into the test phase, test at
the higher gross weight, and change the operating limitations. But
I'm no expert in the FARs, so my opinion isn't worth much.
Just remember that the laws of physics haven't changed just because
you increased the allowable gross weight. If you increase the weight
you need to fly more conservatively. I would not increase the
landing weight above Van's number. If I was above Van's recommended
weight I would only takeoff from a smooth, hard surface runway.
Reduce the allowable g when over Van's recommended weight to keep the
total lift required the same. Reduce VNO when over Van's recommended
weight. Realize that some of the operating speeds need to be
increased if you increase the weight - speed for best glide, speed
for best angle of climb, speed for best rate of climb and desired
final approach speed will all increase. Depending on the results of
your handling testing, you may need to tweak the forward and aft CG
limits when at the higher weight.
Fly safe,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Fw: AeroElectric-List: Ground block location |
Fwd'd from Aeroelectric List for RV-specific response.
DC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Ground block location
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: WHigg1170(at)aol.com
> >
> >Hello I have a question on the B&C 24 terminal ground block location. I
don't
> >have the engine or mount and I want to place the ground block on the
cabin
> >side of the firewall but don't know were to put it so it won't be in the
> >way and
> >also still use vans #2 cables that came with the wiring harness kit.
Thanks
> >
> >Bill
> >RV-6
>
> Can any RV builders help Bill out with this?
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob n' Lu Olds" <oldsfolks(at)aol.com> |
Just HOW short a field are you talking about?? I fly our RV-4(150 HP) from our
1100 ft. grass strip @460 MSL in summer or winter.
I have just installed vortex generators from Larry Vetterman for enough margin
to take my wife along.
Bob Olds
Charleston,Arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "MSices" <msices(at)core.com> |
| Subject: | Painting metallics |
Mark:
Just finished painting my -8 with 2 stage paint (HOK). My suggestion would
be to try to do metallics with 2 stage paint rather than single stage. It
is really not that much more work and you can even clear over your single
stage paint to get an even cover over taped edges. Short of that, I would
suggest that you might try to put your first coat down dry (medium dry) so
that the metallic has a chance to spread evenly over the surface, then try
to come in gradually thicker with the 2nd or 3rd coat to get your gloss.
Horizontal surfaces usually get a thicker coat (because of gravity) so you
may find that aligning the parts vertically is simply getting you a finer
coverage, which is what you want with metallic. The way to get that on
horizontal is to turn the material quantity knob on your gun in. The
advantage of the 2 stage here is you can keep putting the metallic down dry,
then gloss it up with the clear.
I am by no means an expert on this, but thought I would chime in.
-Mike Sices
RV-8 - final assembly
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
czechsix(at)juno.com
Subject: RV-List: Painting metallics
Guys,
What's the trick to painting single-stage metallics and getting the flakes
to lay down in a uniform fashion? The only metallic I'm using on my plane
is a single-stage silver (SherWill Genesis) that I'm applying to the leading
edges of the wings, empennage, and flaps. The first thing I sprayed was the
empennage leading edges. Per the recommendation of a local paint guy, I
sprayed two coats--the first coat was across (perpendicular to) the leading
edge, wait 10 mins for it to tack up, and the second coat was along the
leading edge (i.e. a 90 degree cross coat to the first coat). This was on
the empennage with the parts hanging in the booth LE down. Great results.
Couple days ago I sprayed silver on the "LE" of my flaps (the part that will
get covered by UHMW). I did everything the same as on the empennage except
the parts were laying flat on sawhorses. This time the flakes look
weird....kinda splotchy with an uneven pattern. Wondering if painting it on
a vertical surface helps "align" the flakes better due to the tug of gravity
than on a horizontal surface where they seem to just lay as the fell?
Anybody with metallic painting experience that can offer some insight or
suggestions? I still need to do my wing LE's and want them to look good...
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D painting...learning everything the hard way...
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
---
Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Ground block location |
Here is a picture of mine. Worked fine here.
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing/wiring.htm
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net>
Subject: RV-List: Fw: AeroElectric-List: Ground block location
>
> Fwd'd from Aeroelectric List for RV-specific response.
>
> DC
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Ground block location
>
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>
> >
> > >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: WHigg1170(at)aol.com
> > >
> > >Hello I have a question on the B&C 24 terminal ground block location. I
> don't
> > >have the engine or mount and I want to place the ground block on the
> cabin
> > >side of the firewall but don't know were to put it so it won't be in
the
> > >way and
> > >also still use vans #2 cables that came with the wiring harness kit.
> Thanks
> > >
> > >Bill
> > >RV-6
> >
> > Can any RV builders help Bill out with this?
> >
> > Bob . . .
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JVanLaak(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Lightspeed Cross country |
Listers,
I have to share a recent experience. I have owned a pair of Cross Country
ANR headsets for about 2 years and have been very pleased with them. It is
possible that there are better ANR units, but the overall cost and weight and
comfort are a great bargain in my view.
But a couple months ago I got the power box caught in the seatbelt of my RV-3
and I pulled the wires loose. I sent an email to Lightspeed to see if they
would send me the wiring layout so I could reconnect the broken wire. They
really did not want to do this, preferring to get the unit back and check it out
fully. I asked how much, and they said "free." I sent the unit back, and
sure enough, I got my headset back in less than a week as good as new (new power
cord) and absolutely free except for the shipping to get it to them. In every
way I had contact with the company, they were absolutely customer and quality
oriented. I cannot remember better service from anyone.
BTW, someone said their mike seemed to let in too much noise. My current
plane, an RV-6, is very noisy (as proven with a borrowed headset), but the audio
coming from the mike on the Lightspeed is superb. The mike is directional and
needs to be rotated 180 degrees if you change from right side to left side,
so maybe the problem was a mike pointed at the noise rather than at the mouth.
I am totally satisfied with this great product.
Jim Van Laak
RV-6 N79RL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Mcmahon" <rv6(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: AeroElectric-List: Ground block location |
Yep
I willsend a pic
John McMahon RV 6 (soon to paint)
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net>
Subject: RV-List: Fw: AeroElectric-List: Ground block location
>
> Fwd'd from Aeroelectric List for RV-specific response.
>
> DC
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Ground block location
>
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>
> >
> > >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: WHigg1170(at)aol.com
> > >
> > >Hello I have a question on the B&C 24 terminal ground block location. I
> don't
> > >have the engine or mount and I want to place the ground block on the
> cabin
> > >side of the firewall but don't know were to put it so it won't be in
the
> > >way and
> > >also still use vans #2 cables that came with the wiring harness kit.
> Thanks
> > >
> > >Bill
> > >RV-6
> >
> > Can any RV builders help Bill out with this?
> >
> > Bob . . .
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BillDube(at)killacycle.com" <BillDube(at)killacycle.com> |
| Subject: | Painting metallics |
Below is all very good advice. The only thing I would cation about
is putting the base coat down dry. If you put the base coat down dry, and
don't let it flow out a bit, it leads to orange peel in the clear coat. You
can wet sand the clear coat with 1200 to remove the orange peel, but it
adds quite a bit of work to the process.
At 07:43 PM 9/15/03, you wrote:
>
>Mark:
>
>Just finished painting my -8 with 2 stage paint (HOK). My suggestion would
>be to try to do metallics with 2 stage paint rather than single stage. It
>is really not that much more work and you can even clear over your single
>stage paint to get an even cover over taped edges. Short of that, I would
>suggest that you might try to put your first coat down dry (medium dry) so
>that the metallic has a chance to spread evenly over the surface, then try
>to come in gradually thicker with the 2nd or 3rd coat to get your gloss.
>Horizontal surfaces usually get a thicker coat (because of gravity) so you
>may find that aligning the parts vertically is simply getting you a finer
>coverage, which is what you want with metallic. The way to get that on
>horizontal is to turn the material quantity knob on your gun in. The
>advantage of the 2 stage here is you can keep putting the metallic down dry,
>then gloss it up with the clear.
>
>I am by no means an expert on this, but thought I would chime in.
>
>-Mike Sices
>RV-8 - final assembly
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
>czechsix(at)juno.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Painting metallics
>
>
>Guys,
>
>What's the trick to painting single-stage metallics and getting the flakes
>to lay down in a uniform fashion? The only metallic I'm using on my plane
>is a single-stage silver (SherWill Genesis) that I'm applying to the leading
>edges of the wings, empennage, and flaps. The first thing I sprayed was the
>empennage leading edges. Per the recommendation of a local paint guy, I
>sprayed two coats--the first coat was across (perpendicular to) the leading
>edge, wait 10 mins for it to tack up, and the second coat was along the
>leading edge (i.e. a 90 degree cross coat to the first coat). This was on
>the empennage with the parts hanging in the booth LE down. Great results.
>
>Couple days ago I sprayed silver on the "LE" of my flaps (the part that will
>get covered by UHMW). I did everything the same as on the empennage except
>the parts were laying flat on sawhorses. This time the flakes look
>weird....kinda splotchy with an uneven pattern. Wondering if painting it on
>a vertical surface helps "align" the flakes better due to the tug of gravity
September 03, 2003 - September 15, 2003
RV-Archive.digest.vol-of