RV-Archive.digest.vol-og
September 15, 2003 - September 29, 2003
>than on a horizontal surface where they seem to just lay as the fell?
>Anybody with metallic painting experience that can offer some insight or
>suggestions? I still need to do my wing LE's and want them to look good...
>
>Thanks,
>
>--Mark Navratil
>Cedar Rapids, Iowa
>RV-8A N2D painting...learning everything the hard way...
>
>The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
>Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
>
>
>---
>Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
>
>---
>
>
Bill Dube
http://www.killacycle.com/Lights.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Blake Avant <planesense2002(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Whelen Strobe Power Supplies for Sale |
I have USED Whelen Strobe Power supplies for sale. I
have 1, 2, and
> 3 strobe power supplies in working condition. I
have tested each of
> these units for proper operation. The cost for
these units is $75 to
> $125, plus shipping. You can email me for current
inventory, I will
> send pictures and price of the unit.
>
> These are surplus and salvage units that have been
tested and proven
> to be fully operational. If you have the desire to
repair units, I
> have others that do not work and will sell these for
half the price
> of the working units.
>
> Blake Avant
__________________________________
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Rolling Elevator leading Edges |
From: | "" <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com> |
Anyone have a good procedure and/or pictures for rolling the leading edges of the
control surfaces? Are people cutting down lengths of broomsticks and doing
a cut-out section at a time, or do they do it all at once? I just followed the
directions and rolled the whole thing at once (after using the edge-rolling
tool on both edges). It seemed to produce different curvatures from inboard
to outboard ends. I then got the bright idea of "fixing" it with the hand seamer,
and put little indentions all along the inboard edge. I'm more disgusted
with the results of this than any other part to date. I haven't started the
right elevator or the rudder, so I am hoping I can do it better on those pieces.
A quick search of the archives didn't do much help.
Also, is anyone using an alternative pop-rivet in that area? The AD-41s specified
in the plans sure seem wimpy.
Thanks in advance for any help,
Scott
7A Emmp/Wings
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: paint weight and coats required |
HOW MUCH WEIGHT!!
----- Original Message -----
From: <czechsix(at)juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: paint weight and coats required
>
>
> Guys,
>
> I thought I'd offer some insight for those of you who are interested in
saving weight on your paint job. I have learned (again, the hard way) that
for a given color, certain paint brands cover (or "hide") better than
others, and from a weight/time/money standpoint, obviously the fewer coats
it takes to cover the plane the better. I knew before I started painting
that some colors tend to need more coats than others....for example I've
heard that yellow airplanes tend to be a bit heavier (or is this hearsay??)
due to more coats needed.
>
> Anyway my paint scheme (T-6A JPATS in USAF markings) is mostly blue and
white with red stripe. I am using Sherwin Williams Genesis series which is
an acrylic urethane (designed to replace the Sunfire acrylic urethane
series). I picked the Genesis paint over DuPont Imron 5000 (the two
offerings from my local paint shop) because it is a bit less expensive and
easier to buff out any small flaws. Being a novice painter I thought this
was a good thing. But the downside I've discovered is that the single-stage
dark blue color that I'm using requires at least 3 wet coats to get full
color coverage. This is over a grey primer, and I might get by with only
two coats using a black or dark blue tinted primer. Anyway it's a real
bummer because it takes more time and most of all adds WEIGHT. I've tried
to keep my airplane light so this is discouraging. Several people I've
talked to who've used dark blue DuPont Imron or PPG Concept have said they
only needed 1-2 coats. Dave Wilso!
> n for example (who's nice USAF-themed red/white/blue RV-8 was featured a
few weeks ago in RV of the Week) told me he only needed a single coat of
each color, with PPG Concept). If I had known this, I'd have used Imron or
Concept instead of Genesis just for weight savings, and ironically, might
even save money since less paint is required (even though Imron is more
expensive than Genesis).
>
> The twist according to local painters I've talked to is that while this is
true for dark blue, it may be just the opposite for a different color. For
example, I was told that red Imron doesn't cover as well as red Genesis.
Ah, too bad my whole airplane isn't red instead of just the stripe : )
>
> The one and only advantage to using 3 coats of dark blue Genesis is that
it does have great "depth"....a really nice wet look with a single-stage
paint that if buffed out would probably rival a 2-stage (clearcoat). But
the reason I would not clearcoat an airplane--or use dark blue Genesis
again--is because IMHO the weight gain and expense and time to apply is not
worth the slightly nicer looks you get compared to using minimal coats of a
good-hiding single-stage paint.
>
> Why didn't somebody tell me all this before I started? : )
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A N2D painting....crying....painting....whining...
>
> The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
> Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Meyette" <brianpublic(at)starband.net> |
Subject: | Rolling Elevator leading Edges |
Use the broomstick method and do the whole length at a time. You need a
vise-grip on EACH END of the broomstick to get consistent results the full
length. Bend the outer edge in a bit before doing this, so it sits tight to
the inner edge. Yes, I did use better rivets. See details on my empennage
page.
http://brian76.mystarband.net/rv7a/empennage/EmpennageBuild.htm
brian
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com
Subject: RV-List: Rolling Elevator leading Edges
Anyone have a good procedure and/or pictures for rolling the leading edges
of the control surfaces? Are people cutting down lengths of broomsticks and
doing a cut-out section at a time, or do they do it all at once? I just
followed the directions and rolled the whole thing at once (after using the
edge-rolling tool on both edges). It seemed to produce different curvatures
from inboard to outboard ends. I then got the bright idea of "fixing" it
with the hand seamer, and put little indentions all along the inboard edge.
I'm more disgusted with the results of this than any other part to date. I
haven't started the right elevator or the rudder, so I am hoping I can do it
better on those pieces. A quick search of the archives didn't do much help.
Also, is anyone using an alternative pop-rivet in that area? The AD-41s
specified in the plans sure seem wimpy.
Thanks in advance for any help,
Scott
7A Emmp/Wings
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov> |
Subject: | Re: Rolling Elevator leading Edges |
>
>
>Anyone have a good procedure and/or pictures for rolling the leading edges
>of the control surfaces?
I used a length of steel pipe.
The first one did not come out as well as the last one :)
I found that it all worked much better if I held the pipe to the
table with a couple of C-clamps. I didn't crank down hard with the clamps.
I put the clamps in position, twisted the pipe a bit with a pipe wrench,
then repositioned the clamps, etc. Seemed to work very well. Definitely
much more "under control" than the "all manual" method.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Scott Brumbelow <csbrumbelow(at)fedex.com> |
Subject: | Re: Stobes and Power Supplies |
First off, I have not been getting emails from the list for a number of weeks (and
have not had time to investigate), so if you respond to this please do so directly
to CSBRUMBELOW(at)FEDEX.COM
I am preparing to mount my strobes/nav lights and power supplies and have seen
NO
documentation, suggestions, etc. from Vans or anywhere else. I did some research
in
the archives and came up empty (not to say I didn't miss it).
I have the wingtip set up: each wingtip fixture has the position light, strobe
light, and rear-facing white light. I have a power supply for each unit. I also
have the "standard" wingtips for the RV-8. Additionally, my intent is to mount
the
power supplies on the outer most rib of each wing. This leads to three questions:
1) Is there a "best" recommended placement/methodology for mounting the power
supplies on this outer rib? What about water protection, any strengthening/doubling
of the rib structure, etc. required?
2) How high up on the outer side of the wingtip should the strobe/nav/etc. light
fixtures be mounted? Obviously they need to be high enough such that they give
the
required convergence over the top of the aircraft, but not so high that I am seeing
them (especially the strobe) from the cockpit.
3) Is the light mounting plate simply mounted directly to the wingtip surface,
or do people typically use some kind of filler (i.e., RTV) between it and the
wingtip?
Thanks!
Scott in MEM
Finally at the airport!!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Stobes and Power Supplies |
Scott,
I mounted my power supplies on the spar plate out on the end of the wing.
Four nutplates!
My DAR said no doubler would be necessary.
I'm using the spar plate as a local ground and will bond the other end at
the center of the fuse. My hi-power runs are very short to the end of the
tip to the same type of lights that you've described. Van's sells a spacer
plate made out of fiberglas that puts the light assy in the correct
spot/angle.
I have pictures of my power supply mounting at home if you want
Ralph Capen
RV6A Richardson, TX
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Brumbelow" <csbrumbelow(at)fedex.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: Stobes and Power Supplies
>
> First off, I have not been getting emails from the list for a number of
weeks (and
> have not had time to investigate), so if you respond to this please do so
directly
> to CSBRUMBELOW(at)FEDEX.COM
>
> I am preparing to mount my strobes/nav lights and power supplies and have
seen NO
> documentation, suggestions, etc. from Vans or anywhere else. I did some
research in
> the archives and came up empty (not to say I didn't miss it).
>
> I have the wingtip set up: each wingtip fixture has the position light,
strobe
> light, and rear-facing white light. I have a power supply for each unit. I
also
> have the "standard" wingtips for the RV-8. Additionally, my intent is to
mount the
> power supplies on the outer most rib of each wing. This leads to three
questions:
>
> 1) Is there a "best" recommended placement/methodology for mounting the
power
> supplies on this outer rib? What about water protection, any
strengthening/doubling
> of the rib structure, etc. required?
> 2) How high up on the outer side of the wingtip should the
strobe/nav/etc. light
> fixtures be mounted? Obviously they need to be high enough such that they
give the
> required convergence over the top of the aircraft, but not so high that I
am seeing
> them (especially the strobe) from the cockpit.
> 3) Is the light mounting plate simply mounted directly to the wingtip
surface,
> or do people typically use some kind of filler (i.e., RTV) between it and
the
> wingtip?
>
> Thanks!
> Scott in MEM
> Finally at the airport!!!!!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Rolling Elevator leading Edges |
> I found that it all worked much better if I held the pipe to the
>table with a couple of C-clamps. I didn't crank down hard with the clamps.
I used a length of 3/4" copper water pipe with a 90 degree elbow soldered on
one end and a 1' stub soldered into the elbow to act as cranking handles.
Worked perfectly. I too, used clamps to hold the pipe in place as I cranked
it, but I used 2--12"carpenter's "Jensen" wood clamps with the opening set
to just over the diameter of the pipe, plus the thickness of the table base.
"C" clamps are used to hold the Jensen clamps to the table and the whole
set-up then is firm but the pipe is free to move as it is rotated.
Cheers!!------Henry Hore
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
vansairforce
Hi all...
I have an LRI - www.liftreserve.com - in my -8A and seem to remember there were two parties involved in this company that split apart to form two separate companies... The one above is still selling the analog gauge, and the other developed an LED instrument...
Anyone have any info the LED version?
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <racker(at)rmci.net> |
> Anyone have any info the LED version?
www.liftreserve.net
BTW, any comments (positive, negative, does it help your approaches, etc)
on the LRI in your RV-8? I'm still wanting some type of AOA device, love
to hear real world user experiences vs manufacturer hype.
Rob Acker (RV-6 flying)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ken Simmons" <ken(at)truckstop.com> |
www.liftreserve.net
Ken
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 11:27:39 -0600
>
>Hi all...
>
>I have an LRI - www.liftreserve.com - in my -8A and seem to remember there were two parties involved in this company that split apart to form two separate companies... The one above is still selling the analog gauge, and the other developed an LED instrument...
>
>Anyone have any info the LED version?
>
>
>-Bill VonDane
>RV-8A
>www.vondane.com
>www.creativair.com
>www.epanelbuilder.com
>
The Internet Truckstop
The first and largest
freight matching
service on the
Intenet
______________ ______________ ______________ ______________
Sent via the KillerWebMail system at truckstop.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Will & Lynda Allen" <linenwool(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Rolling Elevator leading Edges |
Scott,
On the first one I did the whole thing at once and on the second I tried
each segment separately. In comparing, I found doing them separately to be
easier. It also seemed to come out better but that could be due to the
practice of already completing one?
I also used an edge roller on the outside edge of the second one I did after
advise from the list and that made a huge difference. I wish I had used it
on the first one because it made the edges seam together perfectly and I
highly recommend you do the same.
-Will
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com
Subject: RV-List: Rolling Elevator leading Edges
Anyone have a good procedure and/or pictures for rolling the leading edges
of the control surfaces? Are people cutting down lengths of broomsticks and
doing a cut-out section at a time, or do they do it all at once? I just
followed the directions and rolled the whole thing at once (after using the
edge-rolling tool on both edges). It seemed to produce different curvatures
from inboard to outboard ends. I then got the bright idea of "fixing" it
with the hand seamer, and put little indentions all along the inboard edge.
I'm more disgusted with the results of this than any other part to date. I
haven't started the right elevator or the rudder, so I am hoping I can do it
better on those pieces. A quick search of the archives didn't do much help.
Also, is anyone using an alternative pop-rivet in that area? The AD-41s
specified in the plans sure seem wimpy.
Thanks in advance for any help,
Scott
7A Emmp/Wings
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
Rob...
The LRI works great... I check it out every time I do stalls and crap, but
to tell you the truth, I never really look at it under normal flying...
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: <racker(at)rmci.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: LRI
> Anyone have any info the LED version?
www.liftreserve.net
BTW, any comments (positive, negative, does it help your approaches, etc)
on the LRI in your RV-8? I'm still wanting some type of AOA device, love
to hear real world user experiences vs manufacturer hype.
Rob Acker (RV-6 flying)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV6160hp(at)aol.com |
Subject: | RV Forum EAA 486 Summary |
The 9th annual RV Forum was held Saturday September 13th 2003 at the EAA chapter
486 Facility, KFZY-Oswego County Airport, Fulton New York. That Saturday was
centered on a weekend long event, which many flyer/driver tent campers partook
of.
While the poor weather Saturday was a mild deterrent, 20 RVs were on the field
for Saturdays event. As well some 90+-paid forum attendees who enjoyed the classroom
environment that these forum-technical presentations at EAA 486 are known
for. This included displaying both a flying RV6 less the cowls, and a fuselage
of an RV8 Subaru FWF, trailered in especially for the event. Other Number
details would include 5 production Aircraft, 1 Cozy, 1 Glastar, 140 Lunches
served and about 90 for the evening banquet wrap up. They were entertained
as guest speaker, author, historian Mr. Kirk House and the Glenn Curtiss story
was told about central New Yorks Ultimate Aviation Experimenter.
All the way form Oregon, Mr. Mike Seager gets extra credit for fighting through
the weather front to arrive at the forum and give his scheduled lessons. As
KFZY it self remained VFR most of the time, I believe just about all the lessons
were given, and his continued support is appreciated, THANK YOU MIKE!!!.
Finally we need to mention the Peoples Choice awards. This year it is no surprise
that Rick Grays (Vincent, Ohio) pristine RV6 took top honors in the RV side-by-side
category. As well the beautiful RV8 of Bill Flaherty (Irwin, PA) took
the award in the RV Tandem configuration. It was our pleasure to host such
nice planes once again at EAA 486.
Many thanks go out to our paid attendees who travel from all over in their cars,
to our technical presenters, to the pilot-builder supporters who flew in and
finally the many vendor material and door prize donators.
The 10th annual RV Forum is in planning stages already. Pencil in Saturday September
11th, 2004. The featured banquet speaker is tentative, but we will continue
to secure Mr. Bob McClurg, F4U Corsair pilotwingman to Pappy Boyington of
the famed Black Sheep Squadron.
Respectfully submitted
David McManmon
President EAA 486
RV6 N58DM Builder-Pilot
DNA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ron Calhoun" <roncal(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | First Flight RV-4 |
I flew N996NC for the first time today. Wow! I had been doing transition
training in a friend's RV-4 and I was so happy mine flew as nice as his. I
did have a heavy left wing, but because of this list, I know what to do
about that. Real flight testing starts tomorrow. I hope I can sleep
tonight. Thanks guys.
Ron Calhoun
RV-4 FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Nels Hanson <pa201950(at)yahoo.com> |
I have a 160 HP Sterba prop RV-6 that I go in and out
of my 1,100 ft. farm strip(705 msl). Since I have
trees at both ends I restrict my activities at 85
degrees F and no wind conditions. Not bad for cruising
at 170 mph IFR. What more does a person need?
--- Bob n' Lu Olds wrote:
>
>
> Just HOW short a field are you talking about?? I fly
> our RV-4(150 HP) from our 1100 ft. grass strip @460
> MSL in summer or winter.
> I have just installed vortex generators from Larry
> Vetterman for enough margin to take my wife along.
> Bob Olds
> Charleston,Arkansas
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> latest messages.
> List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re:RV-4 First Flight |
Congratulations Ron ! Now you'll find out what the RV Grin is all about.
Everything I have flown since our RV-4 has seemed like a DOG !!
Keep Flyin'
Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
Charleston, Arkansas
"Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers"
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: First Flight RV-4 |
Ron,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "Ron Calhoun" <roncal(at)earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: First Flight RV-4
>Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 19:59:26 -0500
>
>
>I flew N996NC for the first time today. Wow! I had been doing transition
>training in a friend's RV-4 and I was so happy mine flew as nice as his. I
>did have a heavy left wing, but because of this list, I know what to do
>about that. Real flight testing starts tomorrow. I hope I can sleep
>tonight. Thanks guys.
>
>Ron Calhoun
>RV-4 FLYING
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Subject: | Rivet options, top fwd fuse skin |
I'll be rivetting the top forward fuse skin on my RV-8 one of these
days. Many of the 3/32" rivets will have to be blind rivets due to
access issues. What is the preferred blind rivet to use in this area?
The smallest CherryMax I know of is 1/8". Are MK319's the next best
thing? Something else?
Thanks,
-
Larry Bowen, 80607
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mitch Faatz" <mitchf(at)skybound.com> |
Subject: | Flip-up center armrest? |
I saw a plane at a fly-in Jackson, CA about five years ago that had a real nice
flip-up armrest that they said they were always fighting over when they flew.
Anybody know which plane that might be? It was an RV-6 or 6A with a real nice
interior.
Mitch Faatz RV-6A Finish Kit Auburn, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rob W M Shipley" <rob(at)robsglass.com> |
"RV-List Digest Server"
Subject: | AVG / Grisoft antivirus |
NOT RV RELATED
I'm posting this to the list since I'm aware that many listers use this antivirus
software.
I've been using their free offering for a while now - in fact since turned on to
it by another lister. In the last week I've been making some changes with my
ISP and some server problems have arisen.
I am now unable to receive my scheduled updates and after a complete reinstall
on one computer I cannot get a response from AVG to the request for a password
to activate the new installation.
I would be very grateful if anyone can help me figure out if there is a problem
with AVG or my ISP's server.
I really would like to be able to continue using this program but since there is
no reply to the activation code request I'm wondering if they have discontinued
the free antivirus service.
Any help appreciated.
Fly safe
Rob
Rob W M Shipley
RV9A N919RV (res) Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
Subject: | Re: Rivet options, top fwd fuse skin |
Larry, Aviation Fasteners carries a Cherry Max CR3214-4-2 which is an opps
type rivet (1/8" shaft-3/32" head). Supper strong......looks like a driven
rivet when completed.
Tom in Ohio RV6-A (Painting)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: RV-List: Rivet options, top fwd fuse skin
>
> I'll be rivetting the top forward fuse skin on my RV-8 one of these
> days. Many of the 3/32" rivets will have to be blind rivets due to
> access issues. What is the preferred blind rivet to use in this area?
> The smallest CherryMax I know of is 1/8". Are MK319's the next best
> thing? Something else?
>
> Thanks,
>
> -
> Larry Bowen, 80607
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
Al was working on an add-on module for the round-dial LRI to add
aural stall warning. I saw a demo at OSH, and it seems to be
promising.
Anyone installing a LRI (or other "AOA" system needs to decide what
they want the unit to do. If you want stall warning, you need one
with some sort of audible signal. If you want it to help you go into
and out of short fields, or to be there in case you need to do a
forced landing in a small spot, you had better get used to using it
on every flight. Otherwise you won't have developed the skills and
habit patterns required to use the AOA system on the day you really
need it.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | mstewart(at)qa.butler.com |
Subject: | Flip-up center armrest? |
I Assume from your question you are looking for armrest pictures. I have
some here. Center console, simple construction, flip up top. I have several
friends who put one of these in after flying mine. (right smoozer?) Very
comfortable and useful.
http://www.mstewart.net/michael/rv/index.htm
go to finishing, then interior.
If you were looking for that particular plane, sorry I can not help you
Enjoy,
Mike Stewart
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Craig Warner" <cwarner(at)twcny.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: Flip-up center armrest? |
Ken Barto used to make these. You can reach him at 315-622-2072.
Best regards
Craig still building
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mitch Faatz" <mitchf(at)skybound.com>
Subject: RV-List: Flip-up center armrest?
>
> I saw a plane at a fly-in Jackson, CA about five years ago that had a real
nice flip-up armrest that they said they were always fighting over when they
flew. Anybody know which plane that might be? It was an RV-6 or 6A with a
real nice interior.
>
> Mitch Faatz RV-6A Finish Kit Auburn, CA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Rivet options, top fwd fuse skin |
Larry, I used MK319s as you suggest. Holes need to be enlarged to #33 as
you know, after they are set, they will need to be filled (I used a micro
slurry).
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 QB (Building)
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: RV-List: Rivet options, top fwd fuse skin
>
> I'll be rivetting the top forward fuse skin on my RV-8 one of these
> days. Many of the 3/32" rivets will have to be blind rivets due to
> access issues. What is the preferred blind rivet to use in this area?
> The smallest CherryMax I know of is 1/8". Are MK319's the next best
> thing? Something else?
>
> Thanks,
>
> -
> Larry Bowen, 80607
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Wayne Reese" <waynereese(at)qwest.net> |
Subject: | Flip-up center armrest? |
There is a RV=6a builder flyer at Bountiful Skyharbor Utah, who has a
STC for arm rests in certified aircraft. It could be him, I'll look for
a name etc.
Wayne
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mitch Faatz
Subject: RV-List: Flip-up center armrest?
I saw a plane at a fly-in Jackson, CA about five years ago that had a
real nice flip-up armrest that they said they were always fighting over
when they flew. Anybody know which plane that might be? It was an RV-6
or 6A with a real nice interior.
Mitch Faatz RV-6A Finish Kit Auburn, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
Subject: | Re: First Flight RV-4 |
Way to Go... Now we have another RV-4 Bro!
----- Original Message -----
From: Ron Calhoun <roncal(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: First Flight RV-4
>
>
> I flew N996NC for the first time today. Wow! I had been doing transition
> training in a friend's RV-4 and I was so happy mine flew as nice as his.
I
> did have a heavy left wing, but because of this list, I know what to do
> about that. Real flight testing starts tomorrow. I hope I can sleep
> tonight. Thanks guys.
>
> Ron Calhoun
> RV-4 FLYING
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tripp Myrick" <tmyrick(at)mchsi.com> |
I am trying to help an RV friend sell two new RV-10 Lycoming engines.
IO-540-T4B5 260 HP
with alternator, starter, magnetos and injector pump.
Brand new in box with all paperwork, logbooks and Factory Warranty
$33,900 outright
Contact me off-list at :
tmyrick(at)mchsi.com or call
706-660-8082
Thanks,
Tripp Myrick RV-8 (sold)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mitch Faatz" <mitchf(at)skybound.com> |
Subject: | Re: Flip-up center armrest? |
The one I'm looking for wasn't a center console, it was just a flip-up arm rest.
So when you didn't want to use it, there was nothing between the seats. It
just flipped down against the electric flap console.
Then again, perhaps a rugged center console that you could step on would make it
easier to get in without stepping on the seat cushions...
Mitch Faatz RV-6A Finish Kit Auburn, CA
>> I Assume from your question you are looking for armrest pictures. I have
>> some here. Center console, simple construction, flip up top. I have several
...
> -----Original Message-----
> >From: Mitch Faatz [mailto:mitchf(at)skybound.com]
>
> I saw a plane at a fly-in Jackson, CA about five years ago that had a real
> nice flip-up armrest that they said they were always fighting over when they
> flew. Anybody know which plane that might be? It was an RV-6 or 6A with a
> real nice interior.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Flip-up center armrest? |
Mitch, sorry I can't help but I'm interested, so if you do locate any info on
the flip up (down?) armrest please pass it on.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, firewall forward
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JhnstnIII(at)aol.com |
Listers--Those of you flying IFR, have you had any problems with P-static?
Have you any experience or opinions on installing static wicks? Our avionics
shop is recommending a bunch of them--they're pricy little devils (what
isn't?). I checked the archives, no real experience, just speculation. Thanks
in
advance. --LeRoy Johnston/David White in Ohio (RV-6, fuel lines, wing attach
work).
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
Subject: | Re: static wicks |
That is a good question.... most airplanes that go RV speed have static
wicks...
I have flown airplanes with static wicks all over them that still looked
like a fireball in a snow storm, and I have flown them that have no trouble
at all. go figure. If you are not in a hurry, when winter comes I will tell
you what happens with my -4. The previous owner flew it IFR and he made no
mention of it.
St Elmo's fire at night is so cool, but not being able to talk to center or
navigate is kind of a bummer. One 210 I used to fly was the worst of all,
The prop would glow with a ring of fire. You could shoot sparks 6 inches off
your fingers to the Windshield, and it would make your hair stand on end.
Holding on to the compass with one hand was the only way you could talk on
the radio.
It had static wicks all over it but nothing helped.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
----- Original Message -----
From: <JhnstnIII(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: static wicks
>
> Listers--Those of you flying IFR, have you had any problems with P-static?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "H.Ivan Haecker" <baremetl(at)gvtc.com> |
Anyone have info on transportation to/from the airport and town? Are restaurants
within walking distance from the motel (Hampton Inn)? Is there any reason one
would need/want a rental car? Thanks in advance.
Ivan Haecker rv-4 950 hrs. So.Cen.TX
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
>
>Anyone have info on transportation to/from the airport and town? Are
>restaurants within walking distance from the motel (Hampton Inn)? Is there
>any reason one would need/want a rental car? Thanks in advance.
>Ivan Haecker rv-4 950 hrs. So.Cen.TX
We have to have a car...with a toddler seat! The airport is rather isolated
from the city. If you want true flexibility for your itinerary, rent a car.
(I booked a Hertz, Ford Taurus for about $30.) Or, just hitch a ride with
someone who has an extra seat. There should be plenty...even mine! If you
stay at the Hampton Inn, there should be a small squadron of RV'ers with
rental cars coming and going throughout the event.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
Subject: | Re: Painting metallics |
Mark,
When shooting metallic paint you have to keep the paint agitated. If you
don't have a professional gun with an agitator in it then just give the
gun a shake at the end of every couple of strokes. Most of the metallic
paints that I've used don't like to stay mixed very well and you have to
keep it stirred somehow.
I had to repaint a car once because of this and believe me, it DOES make
a difference.
Dave EAA Technical Counselor
czechsix(at)juno.com wrote:
>
>
>Guys,
>
>What's the trick to painting single-stage metallics and getting the flakes to
lay down in a uniform fashion? The only metallic I'm using on my plane is a single-stage
silver (SherWill Genesis) that I'm applying to the leading edges of
the wings, empennage, and flaps. The first thing I sprayed was the empennage
leading edges. Per the recommendation of a local paint guy, I sprayed two coats--the
first coat was across (perpendicular to) the leading edge, wait 10 mins
for it to tack up, and the second coat was along the leading edge (i.e. a
90 degree cross coat to the first coat). This was on the empennage with the parts
hanging in the booth LE down. Great results.
>
>Couple days ago I sprayed silver on the "LE" of my flaps (the part that will get
covered by UHMW). I did everything the same as on the empennage except the
parts were laying flat on sawhorses. This time the flakes look weird....kinda
splotchy with an uneven pattern. Wondering if painting it on a vertical surface
helps "align" the flakes better due to the tug of gravity than on a horizontal
surface where they seem to just lay as the fell? Anybody with metallic
painting experience that can offer some insight or suggestions? I still need
to do my wing LE's and want them to look good...
>
>Thanks,
>
>--Mark Navratil
>Cedar Rapids, Iowa
>RV-8A N2D painting...learning everything the hard way...
>
>The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
>Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
Subject: | Painting metallics |
Throw a couple of marbles into the bottom of the can.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Bristol
Subject: Re: RV-List: Painting metallics
Mark,
When shooting metallic paint you have to keep the paint agitated. If you
don't have a professional gun with an agitator in it then just give the
gun a shake at the end of every couple of strokes. Most of the metallic
paints that I've used don't like to stay mixed very well and you have to
keep it stirred somehow.
I had to repaint a car once because of this and believe me, it DOES make
a difference.
Dave EAA Technical Counselor
czechsix(at)juno.com wrote:
>
>
>Guys,
>
>What's the trick to painting single-stage metallics and getting the
flakes to lay down in a uniform fashion? The only metallic I'm using on
my plane is a single-stage silver (SherWill Genesis) that I'm applying
to the leading edges of the wings, empennage, and flaps. The first
thing I sprayed was the empennage leading edges. Per the recommendation
of a local paint guy, I sprayed two coats--the first coat was across
(perpendicular to) the leading edge, wait 10 mins for it to tack up, and
the second coat was along the leading edge (i.e. a 90 degree cross coat
to the first coat). This was on the empennage with the parts hanging in
the booth LE down. Great results.
>
>Couple days ago I sprayed silver on the "LE" of my flaps (the part that
will get covered by UHMW). I did everything the same as on the
empennage except the parts were laying flat on sawhorses. This time the
flakes look weird....kinda splotchy with an uneven pattern. Wondering
if painting it on a vertical surface helps "align" the flakes better due
to the tug of gravity than on a horizontal surface where they seem to
just lay as the fell? Anybody with metallic painting experience that
can offer some insight or suggestions? I still need to do my wing LE's
and want them to look good...
>
>Thanks,
>
>--Mark Navratil
>Cedar Rapids, Iowa
>RV-8A N2D painting...learning everything the hard way...
>
>The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
>Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Flip-up center armrest? |
In a message dated 9/17/2003 11:00:40 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
mitchf(at)skybound.com writes:
The one I'm looking for wasn't a center console, it was just a flip-up arm
rest. So when you didn't want to use it, there was nothing between the seats.
It just flipped down against the electric flap console.
Then again, perhaps a rugged center console that you could step on would make
it easier to get in without stepping on the seat cushions...
That's what I have, and believe me, a center case is more useful in a plane
than it is in a car.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 648hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Nolan" <jimnolan(at)insightbb.com> |
Subject: | Installation Requirements |
Listers,
I'd like to thank Steve Chambers, Mike Robertson and Charlie Becker for the
information provided to me about the legalities of the changes that I'm making
to my aircraft.
The result is, I'm getting a Recurrent Certification on my aircraft. I have
new OpLims and a five hour test period. The DAR at Warsaw has turned in all the
paperwork.
The reason I've went to this trouble is to have a warm, fuzzy feeling knowing
that I don't have to wonder if I'm legal or if the insurance company will pay
off in case of an accident.
Isn't it nice to have the list to seek information when you need it.
Jim Nolan
N444JN
( The Sensenich prop (79) is five knots slower than the Warnke, but it cuts through
rain)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Craig Warner" <cwarner(at)twcny.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: Painting metallics |
There are many variables in shooting metallic.To get an even layer of
metallic the biggest are, Same air pressure at the spray gun each time, Same
distance between work and gun, Same drying time (temperature in shop), Same
speed of travel with the gun,Same mix ratio in paint(thinner and hardener)
and well mixed paint.The marbles are only for use in siphon feed guns (with
the paint cup on the bottom) they will block a gravity feed gun. Speaking of
guns, add to the above list to use the same gun with the same
tip.(especially on HVLP). The main thing we are trying to do is to get the
paint on evenly with the same drying time. This will let the small particles
of metallic lay down in the same position in the paint and reflect light
back the same amount giving the appearance of being the same color.
Best regards
Craig Warner still building
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Bristol" <bj034(at)lafn.org>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Painting metallics
>
> Mark,
>
> When shooting metallic paint you have to keep the paint agitated. If you
> don't have a professional gun with an agitator in it then just give the
> gun a shake at the end of every couple of strokes. Most of the metallic
> paints that I've used don't like to stay mixed very well and you have to
> keep it stirred somehow.
> I had to repaint a car once because of this and believe me, it DOES make
> a difference.
>
> Dave EAA Technical Counselor
>
> czechsix(at)juno.com wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >Guys,
> >
> >What's the trick to painting single-stage metallics and getting the
flakes to lay down in a uniform fashion? The only metallic I'm using on my
plane is a single-stage silver (SherWill Genesis) that I'm applying to the
leading edges of the wings, empennage, and flaps. The first thing I sprayed
was the empennage leading edges. Per the recommendation of a local paint
guy, I sprayed two coats--the first coat was across (perpendicular to) the
leading edge, wait 10 mins for it to tack up, and the second coat was along
the leading edge (i.e. a 90 degree cross coat to the first coat). This was
on the empennage with the parts hanging in the booth LE down. Great
results.
> >
> >Couple days ago I sprayed silver on the "LE" of my flaps (the part that
will get covered by UHMW). I did everything the same as on the empennage
except the parts were laying flat on sawhorses. This time the flakes look
weird....kinda splotchy with an uneven pattern. Wondering if painting it on
a vertical surface helps "align" the flakes better due to the tug of gravity
than on a horizontal surface where they seem to just lay as the fell?
Anybody with metallic painting experience that can offer some insight or
suggestions? I still need to do my wing LE's and want them to look good...
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >--Mark Navratil
> >Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> >RV-8A N2D painting...learning everything the hard way...
> >
> >The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
> >Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
vansairforce
http://www.tech.purdue.edu/at/courses/aeml/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson(at)consolidated.net> |
Subject: | Filter airbox drawings needed |
Can someone scan the pages to assemble the FAB for me. Mine have got lost.
I have the 0-360 carb. style.
reply direct to my address above...
To save time scanning, I will accept from the first offer and advise all others.
Thanks, Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dane Sheahen" <dane(at)mutualace.com> |
I have a LRI on my RV8 and have been using it for about a year. It is great
in the pattern and gives you an audible warning before you run out of lift.
I have the unit with the LED in the horizontal position and it mounted on
the top of my glare shield . All of the LEDs light about 90 knots and as
you slow down one LED at time shuts off starting from left to right. When
you hear the tone you had better be near the ground.
The other nice feature was the ease of calibrating. You just take the plane
to wear you not climbing and not quite stalling and you hit the button and
you are done.
Any question call me at 847-727-0026
Dane Sheahen
RV8a N838RV
> Anyone have any info the LED version?
www.liftreserve.net
BTW, any comments (positive, negative, does it help your approaches, etc)
on the LRI in your RV-8? I'm still wanting some type of AOA device, love
to hear real world user experiences vs manufacturer hype.
Rob Acker (RV-6 flying)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob <panamared2(at)brier.net> |
Subject: | Re: Dynon Report |
I am installing the Dynon in my RV and I thought I would pass along a few
comments as I go.
The unit is very light. I had a chance to compare it to a turn and bank
gyro and it seems that the Dynon unit is about 5 lbs lighter (both systems
are about the same physical size). So with three gyros I am saving well
over 10 pounds with just the instrument, not counting the vacumn system.
You do need an RS 232 cable to wire the system. I live in a very rural
area, went to Radio Shack asked for an RS 232 cable and they looked at me
like I was from Mars! The frustrations of rural living.
Installing the remote magnometer would be a lot easier during construction,
although it is doable for a completed aircraft. For me the hardest part is
deciding where to put it, a lot of places are possible, but what is the
best, etc.
FYI, Aeroelectric Bob has a Dynon installation kit, it has some of what
you will need, it does not have the D-9 and D-25 connector shields, RS 232
cable or the pitot and static connectors (1/8" male fittings). Why Dynon
does not include this stuff is beyond me, it would make it much simpler
just to add it to the package and charge more money. This is what Rocky
Mountain and Grand Rapids does.
In the instructions and wiring you can wire an external temp probe, but no
where on the Dynon's web site do they mention how to order the probe. The
instructions state this is an optional item from Dynon. I guess I will
have to call.
When you get your system, download the latest instructions. Although my
system was shipped after the date of the latest instruction version, I
received the old instructions.
I borrowed a smart level. Never having used one before, there was a
learning curve in using the calibration, mode and units. I did it all
wrong before I figured it out.
For the Dynon unit I am using the same static/pitot system as I use for my
RMI microencoder. Once I get the Dynon pitot tube, I will put that in as a
seperate pitot and static system just for the Dynon unit. This gives me a
redundant pitot/static system in the A/C. No sense ripping out the old
system just to put in the new one.
Well that is it for now. Will post more of the saga as it continues.
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
Hi Bob,
Just an FYI, but the "RS-232" is not actually a "cable", but rather a data
communication protocal, in Dynon's case used to communicate with a PC. You
won't actually find a "pre-made" harness for this thing, since everyone is
going to use it differently. I used the gray code outputs coupled to my
UPSAT SL-70, most people who already have an encoder probably won't.
Basically you end up making a harness with several leads, one for the txpdr,
one for power, and one for the remote mount compass module, but bare bones
the only thing required to turn it on is power/ground.
Also, I will have the same "install kit" available soon with all the stuff
mentioned below, INCLUDING the D-Sub shells for about %30 less.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
The NEW SteinAir Store - http://www.steinair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bob
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon Report
I am installing the Dynon in my RV and I thought I would pass along a few
comments as I go.
The unit is very light. I had a chance to compare it to a turn and bank
gyro and it seems that the Dynon unit is about 5 lbs lighter (both systems
are about the same physical size). So with three gyros I am saving well
over 10 pounds with just the instrument, not counting the vacumn system.
You do need an RS 232 cable to wire the system. I live in a very rural
area, went to Radio Shack asked for an RS 232 cable and they looked at me
like I was from Mars! The frustrations of rural living.
Installing the remote magnometer would be a lot easier during construction,
although it is doable for a completed aircraft. For me the hardest part is
deciding where to put it, a lot of places are possible, but what is the
best, etc.
FYI, Aeroelectric Bob has a Dynon installation kit, it has some of what
you will need, it does not have the D-9 and D-25 connector shields, RS 232
cable or the pitot and static connectors (1/8" male fittings). Why Dynon
does not include this stuff is beyond me, it would make it much simpler
just to add it to the package and charge more money. This is what Rocky
Mountain and Grand Rapids does.
In the instructions and wiring you can wire an external temp probe, but no
where on the Dynon's web site do they mention how to order the probe. The
instructions state this is an optional item from Dynon. I guess I will
have to call.
When you get your system, download the latest instructions. Although my
system was shipped after the date of the latest instruction version, I
received the old instructions.
I borrowed a smart level. Never having used one before, there was a
learning curve in using the calibration, mode and units. I did it all
wrong before I figured it out.
For the Dynon unit I am using the same static/pitot system as I use for my
RMI microencoder. Once I get the Dynon pitot tube, I will put that in as a
seperate pitot and static system just for the Dynon unit. This gives me a
redundant pitot/static system in the A/C. No sense ripping out the old
system just to put in the new one.
Well that is it for now. Will post more of the saga as it continues.
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
Subject: | Re: Flip-up center armrest? |
I like your idea of a center console from the stand point of having
something to grab or push on when getting out of the plane and into it. It
would have to be strong.
BUT I am concerned, because one of the guys that I will give a ride to on
occasion is about 255 pounds. It will aid him with entry and exit. Once in
however, he will be putting constant strain/pressure on the console from the
side. What do you think of your console's strength from side force?
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
On Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: <mstewart(at)qa.butler.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Flip-up center armrest?
>
> I Assume from your question you are looking for armrest pictures. I have
> some here. Center console, simple construction, flip up top. I have
several
> friends who put one of these in after flying mine. (right smoozer?) Very
> comfortable and useful.
>
> http://www.mstewart.net/michael/rv/index.htm
> go to finishing, then interior.
>
> If you were looking for that particular plane, sorry I can not help you
>
> Enjoy,
>
> Mike Stewart
> RV-6A
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mitch Faatz [mailto:mitchf(at)skybound.com]
>
> I saw a plane at a fly-in Jackson, CA about five years ago that had a
real
> nice flip-up armrest that they said they were always fighting over when
they
> flew. Anybody know which plane that might be? It was an RV-6 or 6A with
a
> real nice interior.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Terence Gannon" <terence.gannon(at)telus.net> |
Subject: | -6 Fuse Jig Bill of Materials |
'Listers --
I'm about to head to the lumberyard to pick up the wood for the fuse
jig, which I intend to build as per the plans. Did any of you -6
builders compile a bill of materials, and if so, would it be possible to
get a copy?? Thanx, in advance.
Terry in Calgary
RV-6 S/N 24414
"Fuse!"
________________________________________________________________________________
There are also some good restaurants - if you know where to go. Old Mesilla
is just down the street from the Hampton and has a quaint flavor as well as
the Meson de Mesilla restaurant. East of the University there's the Farm and
Ranch Heritage Museum. Also a drive up highway 70 to the pass over looking
White Sands Missile Range.
Sorry just a little home sick! I miss Cruces - lived there 18 years!!!!!
Bob Hassel
RV9A in a holding pattern - RV10 maybe soon! 8-)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Brian Denk
Subject: Re: RV-List: LOE Fly-in
>
>Anyone have info on transportation to/from the airport and town? Are
>restaurants within walking distance from the motel (Hampton Inn)? Is there
>any reason one would need/want a rental car? Thanks in advance.
>Ivan Haecker rv-4 950 hrs. So.Cen.TX
We have to have a car...with a toddler seat! The airport is rather isolated
from the city. If you want true flexibility for your itinerary, rent a car.
(I booked a Hertz, Ford Taurus for about $30.) Or, just hitch a ride with
someone who has an extra seat. There should be plenty...even mine! If you
stay at the Hampton Inn, there should be a small squadron of RV'ers with
rental cars coming and going throughout the event.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson(at)consolidated.net> |
Subject: | Re: -6 Fuse Jig Bill of Materials |
Terence Gannon wrote:
>
> 'Listers --
>
> I'm about to head to the lumberyard to pick up the wood for the fuse
> jig, which I intend to build as per the plans. Did any of you -6
> builders compile a bill of materials, and if so, would it be possible to
> get a copy?? Thanx, in advance.
>
> Terry in Calgary
> RV-6 S/N 24414
> "Fuse!"
Terry, You might ask around and see if there is a jig sitting that some one
has finished with.
There may be many of them around for free, especially in your area where there
are lots of RV's.
Just a thought,
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com> |
Subject: | -6 Fuse Jig Bill of Materials |
Sorry, I didn't keep mine, just jotted it down on a post-it and tossed
it when done. Took about 15 minutes to figure out from the plans and,
from memory, I think it was 9 2x4 studs, 3 1x4 8', 2 2x6 18' and a half
sheet of plywood. I used drywall screws to assemble, so a box of 3" and
a box of 5".
I bought construction pine and regret it; some of it warped pretty badly
while aging and has caused me to keep an eye on it while building my
fuselage. Meanwhile, my cedar wing jig is still as straight as ever.
If you can afford it, go with the cedar or something else that will be
more stable. You don't want a warp in your jig showing up in your
airplane.
I agree with Phil - if you can find a jig, don't build your own. Now
that the -6 series is winding down, you will essentially end up using it
for firewood when you are done. It's less and less likely that you will
find someone to take it off your hands. Anyway, good luck. I'm finding
the fuselage to be the most fun component to work on - possibly because
there's more room to work.
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - aft bottom skins drilled, working on sides
Terence Gannon wrote:
>
> 'Listers --
>
> I'm about to head to the lumberyard to pick up the wood for the fuse
> jig, which I intend to build as per the plans. Did any of you -6
> builders compile a bill of materials, and if so, would it be possible
to
> get a copy?? Thanx, in advance.
>
> Terry in Calgary
> RV-6 S/N 24414
> "Fuse!"
Terry, You might ask around and see if there is a jig sitting that some
one
has finished with.
There may be many of them around for free, especially in your area where
there
are lots of RV's.
Just a thought,
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Folks,
I finally got to fly the thing yesterday after moving the mag unit to the
wing leading edge(its been a busy month).
It seems to be glued to the earth's iron core. It still reads off from the
steam one slightly, but then I wasn't very accurate with the calibration. As
soon as I get a cooler day I'll go out to the rose and get it accurate.
When doing slow turns it tracks the DG exactly, when doing 3g knife edge
turns it roars right along with the turn and when I snap out of the turn,
its right on heading, either direction. The DG will precess slighly when I
do this.
I then shot the ILS into CRQ and it was far easier to track it then the
steam compass or the DG as my total scan was D-10 / ILS
So for your specs, I measured how far away it originally was from the
aileron corner, 10.75" where it was having interference from the steel in
the aileron. Right now the closest steel (4130 push rod for the navaid
servo) to it is 15" app. Its slightly less for the wing wires, but they are
on the back side of the spar. The strobe lights on the tips are about 23"
away, and don't seem to effect it either.
So, needless to say, I'm am still very impressed by this unit every time I
fly it.
Also, RE the AOA pitot tube question from yesterday. This is not yet
available to my knowledge, but they are working on it.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | Re: Dynon Report |
Bob wrote:
>
>
> You do need an RS 232 cable to wire the system. I live in a very rural
> area, went to Radio Shack asked for an RS 232 cable and they looked at me
> like I was from Mars! The frustrations of rural living.
>
> Installing the remote magnometer would be a lot easier during construction,
> although it is doable for a completed aircraft. For me the hardest part is
> deciding where to put it, a lot of places are possible, but what is the
> best, etc.
>
Here is another heads up for Dynon installations. For a previous
magnetometer installation in my RV-6, I used CAT-5 network cable to wire
the mag installed in the tail and the cable worked just fine. I used the
same harness for the Dynon remote mag and was plagued by serious EMI
which manifested itself as noise in the com radio. When I contacted
Dynon for assistance in locating the source of the noise, I was told
that shielded cable was highly recommended for the remote mag
installation. Unfortunately, that is not mentioned in the Dynon
documentation.
I disconnected the remote mag power lead at the D10 connector, and the
noise disappeared. It seems the Dynon is sending EMI down the remote mag
power line so be sure you use shielded cable to the remote mag. This
problem may not be present in all installations; it may depend on the
proximity of the harness to antennae in a particular aircraft.
I too am perplexed about the temp sensor; I have seen mention of it on
the web site, but there is no mention of it in the wiring docs I have,
and no mention of it in the User Manual. There must have been, or are
plans to later incorporate, a TAS function in the D10.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 510 hrs)
http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: -6 Fuse Jig Bill of Materials |
Terry,
Use kiln dried lumber! there are some horror stories including one from my
Son-in -law who had to rebuild his horizontal stab. rear spar because he
didn't realize the jig had warped!
Another tip is to build the fuse jig in two sections. The front section,
conforming to the plans, but terminating about 10" behind the F-606
bulkhead, essentially a rectangular frame of 2 x 6"s with 4 x 4" legs at
each corner. The aft section is also a rectangular frame of 2 x 6"s but the
width is reduced to that required for mounting the F-607 bulkhead. It's
asinine to have the same width the whole length of the jig taking up all
that space toward the rear. A 4 x 4" leg is installed at each aft corner.The
front cross-member of the rear section is bolted to the aft cross-member of
the front section, which then results in the complete jig with 6 legs.
The beauty of having the jig in two sections is that once you have skinned
the rear cone and the front side skins, the aft section of the jig can be
removed and clear access is available to install those final rivets in the
rear of the cone that are hard to get to when it is on the jig.
I had 2 x 2" steel angles bolted to the bottom of the legs which could take
hold down bolts to the floor and later take casters on the front section so
I could move it around at will. That was very useful as I built a 6-A and
was able to move the fuse around my garage to put the wings on to drill the
U/C mounts. (I envy the 7-A builders that don't have to go through that
!*#!~*! routine!)
I put on a slab of 3/8" ply-wood on the front section of the jig and now is
a very useful table (on casters) in my hangar!
I can scan a few photos and send them to you, if you like. I don't think its
worth putting them on the List Photo- Share seeing that there must be very
few -6 builders out there a your stage.
cheers!!---Henry Hore
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: -6 Fuse Jig Bill of Materials |
Terry,
I used 3/4 birch ply laminated together, cut into 4" strips. Screwed and lag
bolted, then the whole thing coated with polyurethane, jig was very accurate
and did not warp. Did take some time to build, and needed some reasonable
woodworking tools, table saw and jointer. Straightness of fuse and bulkhead
placement is very important.
Best suggestion is look for a used one in your area.
Dave Burnham
RV6A (N64FN reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Dynon Report |
> I too am perplexed about the temp sensor; I have seen mention of it on
> the web site, but there is no mention of it in the wiring docs I have,
> and no mention of it in the User Manual. There must have been, or are
> plans to later incorporate, a TAS function in the D10.
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 510 hrs)
> http://thervjournal.com
Sam et al,
The temp sensor wiring is there because Dynon is eventually planning on
adding real time TAS, which of course they will need temperature input for.
There are some builders, myself included, who won't buy one util they have
it. Believe me, once you've flown with real time TAS you don't want to go
back.
Randy Lervold
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | Re: Dynon Report |
Randy Lervold wrote:
>
>
> > I too am perplexed about the temp sensor; I have seen mention of it on
> > the web site, but there is no mention of it in the wiring docs I have,
> > and no mention of it in the User Manual. There must have been, or are
> > plans to later incorporate, a TAS function in the D10.
> >
> > Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 510 hrs)
> > http://thervjournal.com
>
> Sam et al,
> The temp sensor wiring is there because Dynon is eventually planning on
> adding real time TAS, which of course they will need temperature input for.
> There are some builders, myself included, who won't buy one util they have
> it. Believe me, once you've flown with real time TAS you don't want to go
> back.
Randy, since I have the RMI uEncoder, I have had real time TAS for 500
hrs, and I refer to it often, especially for calculating winds aloft. I
agree it is a nice feature, but I don't think I would let the lack of a
TAS function be a deal breaker when it comes to buying a cool EFIS.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob <panamared2(at)brier.net> |
Subject: | Re: Dynon Report |
>Installing the remote magnometer would be a lot easier during construction,
>although it is doable for a completed aircraft. For me the hardest part is
>deciding where to put it, a lot of places are possible, but what is the
>best, etc.
I have had a request on possible locations, so I thought I would post to all.
1. In front of the horizontal stab, under the vertical stab.
2. On the rear of the baggage bulkhead, top and sides
3. Outboard in a wing bay
4. Behind the pilot or copilots seat, mount to the horizontal crossbar
5. Under the baggage floor skins
6. Inside my wing fairing, I have P-40/Spitfire style fairings.
7. Inside the baggage compartment
8. On the floorboards, just behind the pilot/copilot seats
9. On any fuselage bulkhead behind the baggage compartment
10. Build a shelf somewhere behind the baggage compartment hang from top
skin, or mount to bottom skin.
11. Inside a wing tip.
Now you see what I mean by the hardest part, if you do investigate all of
these options, you may never get it installed. Depending on how you
configured your aircraft, some areas will definitely be better than others.
If I were in the building stage, I would try and put it under the seat or
baggage floor. Lots of good unused space under there.
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
________________________________________________________________________________
I recently weighed my plane both level and in the
normal on-ground attitude. The results were very
interesting to me so I thought I would share them.
I originally weighed it in the normal on-ground
attitude thinking I could convert it to level values
using some trig. It turns out you need to know the
exact height of the real center-of-gravity to do
this calculation. I made an estimate based on the
W&B drawings from Van's but didn't feel comfortable
with it. I built some ramps to get it level and
re-weighed it to get it right. Here are the results
On-ground Level
Nose tire: 236 272
Right tire: 396 377
Left tire: 394 378
The total weight was only 1 pound different which I
consider a good sign of repeatability for the scales.
The empty weight c.g. for the on-ground numbers
is 70.45 inches while for level, it is 68.51.
I'm putting my airplane's gross at 1800 which will
allow me to have two 225lb. people, full fuel, and
over 90 pounds of baggage and still stay in proper
c.g. range and gross weight. C.G. is still ok after
all the fuel is used in this scenario.
I was quite surprised that lifting the main gear
approximately 4 inches transferred 36 more pounds
onto the front gear. For reference, the plane is
unpainted with minimal interior. It has an 0-320-E2D
with standard starter, Van's 35 amp alternator, an
Odyssey battery just in front of the firewall, and
a fixed pitch Sensenich prop.
Doug Medema
RV-6A N276DM ready for inspection!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
Subject: | Re: Dynon Report |
> If I were in the building stage, I would try and put it under the seat or
> baggage floor. Lots of good unused space under there.
No way...I would strongly recommend against mounting it under the seat. If
you or your passenger is wearing anything steel (belt buckle?) or have
anything ferrous in your pockets that might cause interference (key ring on
a keychain, for example; some pens?), you'll be hatin' it. Then there's the
effect of the moving stick/control column, flap weldment, etc.
Or if you mount it under the baggage floor, who's to say you'll never put
anything ferrous back there? Maybe a zipper on a bag or suitcase? Tools?
I'd recommend mounting the remote compass well away from any potential
interference. http://www.rvproject.com/20030806.html
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Matco master cylinder rebuild |
Listers,
I have a leaking master cylinder on my RV8. I ordered rebuild kits (two of
them). For those with a few years of RV operation behind them, have you
found it's best to just rebuild both master cylinders every few years or do
they typically work for a long time, thus requiring rebuild only as needed?
I'd rather just do both while I'm at it if it's the best plan of action.
Thanks,
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Fwd: Dynon Avionics Announces Release of AOA/Pitot Probe |
For those not on the Dynon mailing list, this just came this afternoon:
Dynon Avionics Announces Release of AOA/Pitot Probe
Dynon Avionics is pleased to announce the immediate availability of the
AOA/pitot probe for use with the EFIS-D10 electronic flight information
system. This original release is for the unheated version only. We hope to
have the heated version available within the next several months.
Introductory pricing is $199.00. Orders can be placed by calling Dynon
Avionics at 425-402-0443.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Dynon Remote Mag Placement |
Excuse me if I missed some of the posts along the way but....
isn't the calibration program supposed to correct for any "permanent"
interference? I can understand why you wouldn't want it near any
fluctuating magnetic current but shouldn't it take into account the
permanent magnetic force created by a screw or nearby steel tube?
What about using mu-metal to shield the offending steel?
Ross Mickey
RV6A
Painting
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Fwd: Dynon Avionics Announces Release of AOA/Pitot Probe |
Just a quick note regarding the announcement of the AOA/pitot probe:
The phone number is incorrect in some of the emails that got sent
out including the one posted on the list. The correct phone number
is:
425-402-0433.
Thanks,
Doug Medema
Dynon Avionics
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Dynon Remote Mag Placement |
>Ross Mickey wrote:
>Excuse me if I missed some of the posts along the way but....
>
>isn't the calibration program supposed to correct for any "permanent"
>interference? I can understand why you wouldn't want it near any
>fluctuating magnetic current but shouldn't it take into account the
>permanent magnetic force created by a screw or nearby steel tube?
>
>What about using mu-metal to shield the offending steel?
A magnetic calibration that will account for any "permanent"
interference would require a much more extensive in-flight
calibration than is practical. The in-plane EDC-D10 calibration
is intended to only take care of minor interference. The best
performance will be obtained by mounting the EDC-D10 as far
away from ferrous metal and current carrying wires as possible.
For reasons mentioned by Dan Checkoway, I would not mount it
under the seats or floorboards (i.e. moving ferrous metal from
controls.)
Doug Medema
Dynon Avionics
P.S. We have just released a new version of the software as
well. We are now at V1.5.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RiteAngle3(at)aol.com |
Subject: | RE: RiteAngle AOA owners |
Hello aircraft builders. I know I have quite a few customers out there in
your ranks. If you are building an aircraft or flying your aircraft with the
RiteAngle AOA system I would appreciate personal photos of installation and
comments, positive or negative sent to me off list. Please state model of
aircraft, hours flown with RiteAngle AOA system and any suggestions.
Those who have questions re AOA please also contact me off list. I don't
want to use the list unless questions are asked that would apply to all.
address for contact: riteangle3(at)aol.com
There are several hundred RiteAngle systems out there and many owners have
changed e-mail addresses.
Thanks,
Elbie
Outstanding Customer Service is our Motto
If you like it let others know
If not let me know!
EM aviation, LLC
Elbie Mendenhall
President
13411 NE Prairie Rd
Brush Prairie, WA 98606
Phone & Fax 360-260-0772
www.RiteAngle.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie & Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
Subject: | Diamondhead Flyin? |
Anyone in the Southeast going to the Diamondhead Mississippi flyin tomorrow?
Charlie
RV-4 N914RV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com> |
Subject: | 9A manual trim cable in a 6A? |
Listers:
I am trying to get everything squared away in the aft fuselage before I rivet my
aft top fuselage skin on, and I have a question, mostly for the 9A builders
out there, regarding routing the manual elevator trim cable.
On the 6A, the plans call out for it to be routed under the seat and baggage floors,
with the trim knob mounted on a center console that runs from the bottom
of the panel to the fuel valve mount. This requires the cable to form a vertical
loop from where it exits the wing spar up to where the trim knob is mounted
on the center console.
I would very much like to eliminate this loop, as well as the center console, and
mount my manual elevator trim knob on a small sub-panel along with my throttle,
mixture and carb heat controls. This would give me more leg room, and eliminate
the possibility of kicking that vertical trim cable loop. Plus, I just
don't like the looks of it as designed.
My thought is to loop the trim cable in a horizontal plane infront of the instrument
panel and run it to the aft end of the fuselage by way of under the canopy
decks ( I am building a slider). This would require me to get a longer elevator
trim cable, which I see is available by getting either part number CT-23V42-DF-2-181,
which if I read it right is 3" longer than that in the 6A kit, or
going with part number CT-23V42-DF-2-191 which is 13" longer....probably the
one to go with.
I was able to inspect a 9A that was in my airport's FBO and noticed that my desired
arrangement was present in this particular 9A. Unfortunately, I was unable
to talk with its owner/builder. Is that a design feature of all 9's?
Any other 6 builders go with this type of arrangement??
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
finish kit....slider in progress
Peshtigo, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: Diamondhead Flyin? |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie & Tupper England" <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
Subject: RV-List: Diamondhead Flyin?
>
> Anyone in the Southeast going to the Diamondhead Mississippi flyin
tomorrow?
>
> Charlie
> RV-4 N914RV
>
Not going, Charlie, but wondered if you were going to try and make the SERFI
at Evergreen, AL in early October?
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Matco master cylinder rebuild |
In a message dated 9/19/2003 3:34:15 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
akroguy(at)hotmail.com writes:
I have a leaking master cylinder on my RV8. I ordered rebuild kits (two of
them). For those with a few years of RV operation behind them, have you
found it's best to just rebuild both master cylinders every few years or do
they typically work for a long time, thus requiring rebuild only as needed?
I'd rather just do both while I'm at it if it's the best plan of action.
Brian-
This depends on why it developed a leak. I'm assuming in my response that
your master cylinder is leaking fluid out of the rod seal rather than leaking by
the piston seal.
If you have a rough rod (ouch!), the seals will just get torn up again in
short order. If the rod is good and mirror smooth, it's possible that the seal
was damaged during initial installation or was defective in some other way.
Pay particular attention to the quality of the surfaces in contact with the
seal. If I were doing this I would probably use it as an opportunity to replace
the nitrile (buna-n) O-rings with Viton but the nitrile ones work fine in the
master. Viton is really much better than nitrile for the caliper piston seal.
See you at Copperstate.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 648hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "GMC" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca> |
Subject: | 9A manual trim cable in a 6A? |
Listers:
I am trying to get everything squared away in the aft fuselage before I
rivet my aft top fuselage skin on, and I have a question, mostly for the 9A
builders out there, regarding routing the manual elevator trim cable.
On the 6A, the plans call out for it to be routed under the seat and baggage
floors, with the trim knob mounted on a center console that runs from the
bottom of the panel to the fuel valve mount. This requires the cable to
form a vertical loop from where it exits the wing spar up to where the trim
knob is mounted on the center console.
I would very much like to eliminate this loop, as well as the center
console,
---------------------------big snip
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
-----------------------------------------
Hi Jeff
I have electric trim on my 6A because I did not like the looks of the trim
cable setup either.
However if I was trying to put in manual trim on a 6A I would investigate
trying a shorter cable running along left side under left arm-rest, then
connecting to a lever that runs up through a slot at forward end of
arm-rest. There must be off the shelf outboard motor throttle cables or
something similar that could be made to work.
This is only food for thought and worth what you paid for it.
Have flown both manual & electric trim, both work fine. Only drawback with
the vernerier cable setup is that on the aircraft I flew there was no trim
indicator and it is hard to tell when trim is neutral during before takeoff
check. With a left side lever there would be a visual reference for trim tab
position.
George McNutt
Langley, BC
6A - 210 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | eregensburg <eregensburg(at)triad.rr.com> |
Subject: | Diamondhead VS Danville Flyin |
Im going to Danville VA for the young Eagles fly in that Len Leggette helped
organize. Anyone else willing to help would be appreciated. (DAN) Starting
around 9AM (briefing) 10 AM we fly. Anyone, anytime welcome !!
Ed "Ditch"
N925RV - RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Geoff Evans <hellothaimassage(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Horiz vs. Vert induction |
Aero Sport Power now lists two types of IO-360 (the 180HP non-counterweighted
version) engines on their pricing page.
The IO-360-B series has a vertical draft sump (like the O-360) and the
IO-360-M series has a horizontal setup (like the IO-360-A1B6).
Other than the extra hole in the front of the cowl, what are the advantages
and disadvantages of a horizontal vs. vertical induction setup?
Why is the M-series (horizontal) almost $2000 more?
Thanks.
-Geoff
RV-8 QB fuselage
__________________________________
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | [ Ken Brooks ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Ken Brooks
Subject: Remote Magnetometer Shelf and CPU Mount for Blue Mountain Avionics
EFIS-One in RV-8
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/kenbrooks@charter.com.09.20.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "GEORGE INMAN" <ghinman(at)attcanada.ca> |
Subject: | F-810C LENGTH RV-8 QUICKBUILD |
When mounting my horiz.stab to the
fuselage I noticed that the F-810C angle
was not quite long enough.
It does not butt tight against the
vert. flange of the F-887 longeron
As a result it will be difficult to
maintain edge clearance for the bolt
that goes through both the f-810C
and the F-887 .
Has anyone had this problem
on the RV-8 QB .
GEORGE H. INMAN
ghinman(at)attcanada.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Larygagnon(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: RE: RiteAngle AOA owners |
My RV6 has 27 hours now and the AOA is still not programed. I wanted to wait
until I could take a passenger with me to be able to program the unit. I'm
intimidated by the instructions and want someone in the plane to help with the
programing. I'll let you know when I get the system up and running.
Larry Gagnon
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dick Jordan" <mkejrj(at)erols.com> |
Subject: | Re: Horiz vs. Vert induction |
Geoff,
I ordered the horizontal induction Superior engine and have not received
same at this writing. It should be ready for delivery in about 60 days since
they are doing engineering work on the manifold before releasing it to the
public.My answers are based on conversations with Superior and are not first
hand knowledge but I believe them to be accurate.
The new manifold is made from a composite material which is about 8 Lbs.
lighter than it's standard aluminum counterpart. It routes the induction
charge to the cylinders so that the gas air mixture does not pick up as much
heat as the conventional unit( which routes through the crank case filled
with hot oil). The cooler induction method results in a denser mixture and
more power.. Superior advises about 1/2 " more manifold pressure.
The above summarizes the main advantages. Other than that I understand the
RV 8 is designed for the forward induction system and this should save time
and money in not having to modify the cowl for vertical induction.
If my memory serves me the horizontal system sells for a $1,000. more than
the standard system. This may be distorted in that I purchased my engine at
an OSH sales price.
Good Luck,
Dick Jordan
RV 8A, Finishing
----- Original Message -----
From: "Geoff Evans" <hellothaimassage(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Horiz vs. Vert induction
>
> Aero Sport Power now lists two types of IO-360 (the 180HP
non-counterweighted
> version) engines on their pricing page.
>
> The IO-360-B series has a vertical draft sump (like the O-360) and the
> IO-360-M series has a horizontal setup (like the IO-360-A1B6).
>
> Other than the extra hole in the front of the cowl, what are the
advantages
> and disadvantages of a horizontal vs. vertical induction setup?
>
> Why is the M-series (horizontal) almost $2000 more?
>
> Thanks.
>
> -Geoff
> RV-8 QB fuselage
>
> __________________________________
> http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Matco master cylinder rebuild, etc. |
LIMITED_TIME_ONLY
>In a message dated 9/19/2003 3:34:15 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
>akroguy(at)hotmail.com writes:
>I have a leaking master cylinder on my RV8. I ordered rebuild kits (two of
>them). For those with a few years of RV operation behind them, have you
>found it's best to just rebuild both master cylinders every few years or
>do
>they typically work for a long time, thus requiring rebuild only as needed?
>I'd rather just do both while I'm at it if it's the best plan of action.
>Brian-
>
>This depends on why it developed a leak. I'm assuming in my response that
>your master cylinder is leaking fluid out of the rod seal rather than
>leaking by
>the piston seal.
Yeah, it's around the rod seal.
>
>If you have a rough rod (ouch!), the seals will just get torn up again in
>short order. If the rod is good and mirror smooth, it's possible that the
>seal
>was damaged during initial installation or was defective in some other way.
>Pay particular attention to the quality of the surfaces in contact with the
>seal. If I were doing this I would probably use it as an opportunity to
>replace
>the nitrile (buna-n) O-rings with Viton but the nitrile ones work fine in
>the
>master. Viton is really much better than nitrile for the caliper piston
>seal.
I'll thoroughly check the rod surface finish and O-rings for flaws. I have
access to all kinds of O-rings at work, including viton. I'll cross
reference the rings when the kits arrive and keep them handy for the future.
I'm thinking the most likely reason for the leakage is dirt getting on the
rod and wearing the O ring by sawing into it. It's pretty dusty here,
especially during the spring and it just doesn't rain enough! I have to
sweep mounds of dust out of my hangar a few times every year. Time to
invent a master cylinder rod condom. :)
>
>See you at Copperstate.
I hope! I started the annual today and found *gasp*...another bad engine
cylinder. That makes three cracked jugs in four years. I could just
scream.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Horiz vs. Vert induction |
I believe one benefit of the vert is that there is more room up front than
below. Easier to plumb fuel lines and cables and further away from the
exhaust. I dont think they can make it work for a carb though.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dick Jordan" <mkejrj(at)erols.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Horiz vs. Vert induction
>
> Geoff,
> I ordered the horizontal induction Superior engine and have not
received
> same at this writing. It should be ready for delivery in about 60 days
since
> they are doing engineering work on the manifold before releasing it to the
> public.My answers are based on conversations with Superior and are not
first
> hand knowledge but I believe them to be accurate.
>
> The new manifold is made from a composite material which is about 8
Lbs.
> lighter than it's standard aluminum counterpart. It routes the induction
> charge to the cylinders so that the gas air mixture does not pick up as
much
> heat as the conventional unit( which routes through the crank case filled
> with hot oil). The cooler induction method results in a denser mixture and
> more power.. Superior advises about 1/2 " more manifold pressure.
>
> The above summarizes the main advantages. Other than that I understand
the
> RV 8 is designed for the forward induction system and this should save
time
> and money in not having to modify the cowl for vertical induction.
>
> If my memory serves me the horizontal system sells for a $1,000. more
than
> the standard system. This may be distorted in that I purchased my engine
at
> an OSH sales price.
>
> Good Luck,
> Dick Jordan
> RV 8A, Finishing
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Geoff Evans" <hellothaimassage(at)yahoo.com>
> To: "RV List"
> Subject: RV-List: Horiz vs. Vert induction
>
>
> >
> > Aero Sport Power now lists two types of IO-360 (the 180HP
> non-counterweighted
> > version) engines on their pricing page.
> >
> > The IO-360-B series has a vertical draft sump (like the O-360) and the
> > IO-360-M series has a horizontal setup (like the IO-360-A1B6).
> >
> > Other than the extra hole in the front of the cowl, what are the
> advantages
> > and disadvantages of a horizontal vs. vertical induction setup?
> >
> > Why is the M-series (horizontal) almost $2000 more?
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > -Geoff
> > RV-8 QB fuselage
> >
> > __________________________________
> > http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: F-810C LENGTH RV-8 QUICKBUILD |
I think shortness is a pretty standard problem with this part regardless of whether
it's a QB or not. I had the same concern on my 8A QB and here is Van's response:
There is no shear load on the bolt that goes thru the F-810C so as
long as the edge distance on the 887 is good, leave it as is.
No matter how tight you get the 810 in the 887, there is no way to
get standard edge distance on the 810 and the 887. It is more important
to get edge distance on the 887 longeron.
If I had built it myself, the fit would have been quite a bit closer and I would
have beveled the horizontal edge of F-810C to snug up to the curve between the
horizontal and vertical legs of F-887. The QB fit seemed perfunctory to me.
Dave Reel - RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Re: F-810C LENGTH RV-8 QUICKBUILD |
George,
I noticed the same thing. I scrapped my original, "made to plans" angle. I used
a cardboard template to make a second, longer piece which fits snugly in between
the longerons.
Charlie Kuss
>
> When mounting my horiz.stab to the
> fuselage I noticed that the F-810C angle
> was not quite long enough.
> It does not butt tight against the
> vert. flange of the F-887 longeron
> As a result it will be difficult to
> maintain edge clearance for the bolt
> that goes through both the f-810C
> and the F-887 .
> Has anyone had this problem
> on the RV-8 QB .
>
>GEORGE H. INMAN
>ghinman(at)attcanada.ca
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RiteAngle3(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: % RiteAngle AOA owners |
From: Larygagnon(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: RiteAngle AOA owners
My RV6 has 27 hours now and the AOA is still not programed.=A0 I wanted to wait
until I could take a passenger with me to be able to program the unit.=A0 I'm
intimidated by the instructions and want someone in the plane to help with
the
programing.=A0 I'll let you know when I get the system up and running.
Larry Gagnon
Larry, According to my records you purchased the system on 06/04/01, over
two years ago. I haven't heard from you in many many months. If I would have
known you were intimidated by the instructions, it would have been easy to send
you an updated CD of the setup instructions. There are over 400 RiteAngle
systems out there, and the instructions have improved constantly, primarily by
resolving questions like you may have. You purchased your system shortly after
it was introduced and we are striving to make it easier to understand the
setup instructions all the time. It is definitely true it is easier with another
person in the aircraft, however, as said earlier, there is nothing required you
didn't do prior to solo.
Let me know your questions and I'll either e-mail or phone at a time
convenient to you to get them answered! It is hard to resolve questions when you
don't know them and we strive to have the best customer service in the industry.
Outstanding Customer Service is our Motto
If you like it let others know
If not let me know!
EM aviation, LLC
Elbie Mendenhall
riteangle3(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | [Please Read] SPAM Filter Could Be Causing Posting Problems |
For Some Members...?
Dear Listers,
Matronics is now utilizing a SPAM filter appliance to filter out the
excessive amounts of inappropriate email that bombards the Email List
Forums each day. The filter is reporting that over 66% of the email
messages sent to Matronics email destinations are of SPAM content and
reviewing the logfiles, it would appear to be true. That is indeed great!
While the Lists are enjoying the breath of fresh air afforded by the new
appliance, I am suspecting that a few legitimate email List posts are being
blocked as too, although I can't confirm this. It is difficult to churn
through the logfiles looking though thousands of blocked email messages
trying to determine if any legitimate List posts were blocked.
If you suspect that your posts are accidently being blocked by the SPAM
filter appliance, I have created a new Trouble Report web page that will
allow you to report your problems directly to me without having to use
email. If the SPAM filter is blocking your email address for some reason,
then its likely that I wouldn't be able to receive your direct email
regarding difficulty in posting. The web form bypasses the incoming email
and directs your message directly to me.
Please include as much information as possible regarding the problems you
are having including any bounced email or email error messages that you may
have received back in regard to your posts to the lists. The more
information I have about the email you are sending and what the errors you
are receiving, the better chance I'll have in hunting down the problem.
The Trouble Report Website URL is:
http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report/
I apologize for any inconvenience the SPAM filter may be causing you. I
will work toward resolving your issues as quickly as possible.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics EMail List Administrator
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David Schaefer" <dschaefer1(at)kc.rr.com> |
Subject: | RV FLy-In - JEFFERSON CITY, MO - Oct. 11th. |
I was asked to post this for the group:
The second annual RV get together @ Jefferson City, MO (JEF)(
http://www.airnav.com/airport/KJEF ) will be held Saturday, October
11th. A Young Eagles even will kick-off at 09:00 with Lunch from 11:30.
Looking forward to seeing you there.
Regards,
David Schaefer
RV6-A Finishing Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "BillDube(at)killacycle.com" <BillDube(at)killacycle.com> |
Subject: | Ultimate C-frame |
For those that want the "deluxe" version of a C frame riveter, check out:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2559535597&category=32718
Bill Dube
http://www.killacycle.com/Lights.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | eregensburg <eregensburg(at)triad.rr.com> |
Subject: | Partnership - RV6A and C210 Greensboro NC |
I am working to save a marriage here! I have a RV6A (2 passenger limited
baggage 130 cruise)- full IFR (GPS,Dual VOR & GS, auto pilot, engine
monitor, fuel flow meter etc). I recently purchased a Cessna 210
(4+passenger + baggage + fuel 170Knot cruise)which will be full IFR (new GNS
430, 3 axis auto pilot and more). My wife is a little upset at the new
purchase. I need to find a partner for these planes. It would be ideal to
find an RV builder looking for flying time while he finishes his plane.
Partnership in the RV would run around $40K. (I would buy them out once
theirs is built.) The 210 would run $50K. Or a person could partner in both
airplanes for the best of both worlds! If anyone is interested contact me by
email at: eregensburg(at)triad.rr.com
Thanks
Ed Regensburg
N925RV - Greensboro NC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
Subject: | Looking for an RV ride in Orlando... |
vansairforce
Hi all...
I have a buddy that has been working is butt off on a paint scheme for me that
is going to be AWESOME and I would love it if I could get him an RV ride... He
lives in Orlando...
If anyone is interested, please contact me off list...
-Bill
bill(at)vondane.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "George Nuse" <gnuse(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | 24v to 5v plug-in adapter? |
Anyone know of a cig. lighter plug adapter to plug a PDA(ipaq with GPS) with 5v
into the aircraft's 24v system?
George
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
Subject: | invisible hinge on cowl oil door |
I'm playing around with a design for the hinge on the oil door on the cowl
that will make the hinge invisible. I'd like to get some feedback on it
before I commit to it. Here are some photos of the design, which I played
around with on scrap:
http://www.rvproject.com/oildoordesign.html
Do you see any potential snags with this design? Any reason why I would not
want to use it?
Or...are there any simpler tricks for making the hinge invisible?
Thanks in advance,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Possible Freight Carrier for Quickbuild Components |
From: | Don.Alexander(at)AstenJohnson.com |
09/22/2003 03:41:42 PM
Listers,
I have developed a contact for a freight carrier to move our huge crates to
the East Coast. The carrier's name is Nema Inc. and they are based in the
Atlanta GA area. My company uses them for shipping extremely valuable
freight that happens to have a similar dimension to what our quickbuilds
have. They run a weekly route up the West Coast and would have it back in
the Atlanta area a few days later. They have a warehouse in the Atlanta
area with a fork truck, so they could cross-dock onto your trailer right
there. What makes this carrier attractive for shipping aircraft is that
they are not a LTL carrier. This is a truck that is heading back to home
and will not be stopping at many terminals and beating the heck out of your
crate while switching it to different trailers from hub to hub. Nema also
has designed a crane into the roof of their trailers so that they can lift
the crate right out of the trailer and set it on your flat-bed if needed.
I have not witnessed this crane in action, so I can't vouch for its ability
to do this on a fuselage-sized crate without having to tilt the crate
during the process. I know that some of the cargo that we ship weighs over
a ton and are packaged in crates over 30' long, but we are not concerned
about keeping things level while handling.
They run a truck out of the Atlanta area up the East Coast every week as
well hitting one of our facilities in Warrendale PA and Appleton WI (Near
Oshkosh) so you may wait on this truck if you are not in a hurry for your
shipment. I can tell you that the price that they quoted me was about $300
less than what Van's said that ABF would charge for the move of my RV-8 QB
fuselage, and I have much more faith in Nema. If you are interested in
talking to them, call Mike George at 800-229-6362. Do not give them a call
if you are in an extreme hurry to receive your freight because the rate
that they will quote will assume that you are working with their regular
route structure. In my case, I will have to meet them at a rest stop so
they can drop the load on my flat-bed. If you choose to use them, please
leave feedback on The RV List for others to see. If you are like me, a
$300 freight savings helps out quite a bit. I will close by saying that I
have no financial interest in Nema. I recommend them based on the success
that I have had with them in the past in moving high-value freight.
Don Alexander
RV-8 wings almost done, QB fuse on the way in December
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: invisible hinge on cowl oil door |
All it needs in my opinion is to spring load the hinge to the open position
and a hartwell latch........
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: RV-List: invisible hinge on cowl oil door
>
> I'm playing around with a design for the hinge on the oil door on the cowl
> that will make the hinge invisible. I'd like to get some feedback on it
> before I commit to it. Here are some photos of the design, which I played
> around with on scrap:
>
> http://www.rvproject.com/oildoordesign.html
>
> Do you see any potential snags with this design? Any reason why I would
not
> want to use it?
>
> Or...are there any simpler tricks for making the hinge invisible?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: invisible hinge on cowl oil door |
Dan,
I like your idea and your prototype oil door; however, I think the pressure
inside the cowl is quite high and your oil door will tend to bulge outward.
I was really surprised on the RV-4 how much it bulged around the fastners. I
see your possible weak point at the hinge line where air pressure will push
the door out in flight. Perhaps a little lip on this side to catch under
the cowl when closed?
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 QB (Building)
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: RV-List: invisible hinge on cowl oil door
>
> I'm playing around with a design for the hinge on the oil door on the cowl
> that will make the hinge invisible. I'd like to get some feedback on it
> before I commit to it. Here are some photos of the design, which I played
> around with on scrap:
>
> http://www.rvproject.com/oildoordesign.html
>
> Do you see any potential snags with this design? Any reason why I would
not
> want to use it?
>
> Or...are there any simpler tricks for making the hinge invisible?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Starn" <jhstarn(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: invisible hinge on cowl oil door |
Your photo's look great. Flush latch, Hartwell H-5000-2, on A/S page# 179 is
what we used. Take a look at the oil door on Cessna types. They have a "U"
bend attached to the door and the other end to the hidden hinge. They open
toward the center line of the airframe but it's easy to adapt so that the
hinge side is on the front quarter. Had a proto type built for the HRII but
Gummibear was in a hurry to get airborne so we installed the hinge with the
eyes up and cut door to fit. Someday I'll get back to it either for N561FS
or an RV-10. KABONG
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: invisible hinge on cowl oil door
>
> All it needs in my opinion is to spring load the hinge to the open
position
> and a hartwell latch........
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
> To: ;
> Subject: RV-List: invisible hinge on cowl oil door
>
>
> >
> > I'm playing around with a design for the hinge on the oil door on the
cowl
> > that will make the hinge invisible. I'd like to get some feedback on it
> > before I commit to it. Here are some photos of the design, which I
played
> > around with on scrap:
> >
> > http://www.rvproject.com/oildoordesign.html
> >
> > Do you see any potential snags with this design? Any reason why I would
> not
> > want to use it?
> >
> > Or...are there any simpler tricks for making the hinge invisible?
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> > )_( Dan
> > RV-7 N714D
> > http://www.rvproject.com
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Subject: | dynon magentometer |
Folks, re the list provided about magnetometer locations, I don't mean to
trash it, but I found that this thing is very sensitive to any steel or
current within 12". I had it located 10 inches away diagonally from the
aileron leading edge and it was all over the place, due to the steel pipe in
the aileron.
1. In front of the horizontal stab, under the vertical stab.
Fair, but you have the steel hardware for the vert and horizontal stab, as
well as elevator horns
2. On the rear of the baggage bulkhead, top and sides
Poor, if steel or magnets are loaded into baggage area, and if slider
version then you have steel canopy frame.
3. Outboard in a wing bay
Seems like best place, as long as no major current wires nearby and in
leading edge away from aileron.
4. Behind the pilot or copilots seat, mount to the horizontal crossbar
Bad, flaps bar is steel, as well as flap motor, and baggage loading, see 2
5. Under the baggage floor skins
bad, same as 2 and 4
6. Inside my wing fairing, I have P-40/Spitfire style fairings.
bad, same as 2 and 4
7. Inside the baggage compartment
bad, same as 2 and 4, (I assume that you don't mean the forward one in an 8,
in which case if this location works then the internal unit should work.)
8. On the floorboards, just behind the pilot/copilot seats
bad, same as 2 and 4
9. On any fuselage bulkhead behind the baggage compartment
Fair, but a bitch to get to, and very hard to get exactly oriented and get
it stiff enough to not vibrate.
10. Build a shelf somewhere behind the baggage compartment hang from top
skin, or mount to bottom skin.
Same as 9
11. Inside a wing tip.
good as long as nothing else is in there
As you can see this thing is not that easy to locate, particularly if you
have a bunch of stuff in your wingtips and leading edges. Then once you find
a spot getting it matched to the main unit and mounted securly isn't that
easy either.
My notes on how I did it should be in the archives
W
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Brian,
I had the same problem on my right system, pilots pedal. There were some
rough spots on the shaft, where something had marred the shaft. Not sure if
this happened in route to me or during installation. I could not find
anything that would have caused it as installed.
But its symptoms were that it would suck in air between the copilot and
pilot's pedals every time I went upside down. It finally started leaking
fluid out, so I rebuilt it, and chucked the shaft up in a lathe and polished
it. A drill press would work for this. If it happens again I'm going to
replace the whole unit. The other three seem to be working just fine.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | invisible hinge on cowl oil door |
Nothing wrong with the design, it's been done many times. I used p/n
11205A36 from http://www.mcmaster.com rather than roll my own. And I got the
p/n from someone else. A friend used one very wide version of yours rather
than 2 pieces. Keep in mind the cowling is not flat and the hinge lines of
the 2 pieces should be co-linear to prevent binding. It's also got to clear
the baffling and dipstick depending on its orientation.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
>
>
> I'm playing around with a design for the hinge on the oil
> door on the cowl that will make the hinge invisible. I'd
> like to get some feedback on it before I commit to it. Here
> are some photos of the design, which I played around with on scrap:
>
> http://www.rvproject.com/oildoordesign.html
>
> Do you see any potential snags with this design? Any reason
> why I would not want to use it?
>
> Or...are there any simpler tricks for making the hinge invisible?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov> |
Subject: | Re: invisible hinge on cowl oil door |
>
>I'm playing around with a design for the hinge on the oil door on the cowl
>that will make the hinge invisible. I'd like to get some feedback on it
>before I commit to it. Here are some photos of the design, which I played
>around with on scrap:
>
>http://www.rvproject.com/oildoordesign.html
>
>Do you see any potential snags with this design? Any reason why I would not
>want to use it?
I would be concerned about aerodynamic loads. I was chatting with
a local RVer, and he showed me how his cowl bowed at the top rear where he
decided not to install a single fastener. (It is installed now.)
The arms are much weaker and more compliant than direct attachment
to the hinge. Thus, the door might bow in or out as the arms flex.
You could put a lip and a fastener (like a cam lock) on the hinge
edge of the door to be sure it didn't bow in or out. However, if you did
that, why have the hinge at all?
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: invisible hinge on cowl oil door |
I can't tell for sure on what side of the access
door you have the hinge (i.e. top, bottom, front or
back). I basically copied Laird Owen's design which
has the hinges on the front. It works fine but I
almost put the hinge point to far forward which
would have been inside the baffles. As it is, it
just clears the rear baffle on the engine.
Doug Medema
RV-6A N276
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: dynon magentometer |
Wheeler et al:
I spent the better part of yesterday building a shelf patterned after Dan
Checkoway's design he had for his magnetometer. Go to
http://www.rvproject.com/20030806.html
to have a look at his design.
I made one modification to it that seems to eliminate Wheeler's concern that
it would be a pain to get to if it is mounted on F607, in a 6A in my case.
My shelf is hinged at its trailing edge so that adjustments in pitch
orientation can be made precisely. My first concern about this design was
that the hinge would vibrate, but it appears to be quite stable. I used the
same size as for the flaps.
I plan to rivet the vertical portion of the tray that is supported by F607
without the rest of the tray on....in other words I'll pull the hinge pin.
That way I can rivet it in place, oriented parallel to the bottom flange of
my instrument panel (my Dynon is not mounted yet). .
The Magnetometer will attach to the horizontal part of the tray such that it
is parallel to the aft edge/hinge of the tray. This in turn makes it
parallel to F607, taking care of orientation in yaw, assuming that my panel
is still perpendicular to the long axis of the airplane as it was
constructed.
The forward angle support can be clamped to the top rib extending from F606
( sorry, don't have parts numbers infront of me) and oriented until it is
level with the long axis of the Dynon. Once the aft top skin is riveted on,
the only thing I will have to crawl back there to do is slip my hinge pin
back in and get the tray level in the long axis, then drill through pilot
holes in the forward support into the fuselage top rib. If I can't get in
there, at least my 12 year old son can! I'll loan him out for a price. ;
)
The only ferrous material nearby is the steel cable for the shoulder harness
anchors, but seems they are more than 12" away, and should not be a factor.
I opted for this location as I have landing lights/wigwags in both wings, as
well as nav/strobes in both wings. It also just seems easier to get it
oriented to the Dynon if it is in the fuselage. Just my opinion...FWIW..
If anyone wants pictures of what I came up with, let me know and I will
shoot some out to you. Again, it is just a modification of Dan's design.
Hope this helps anyone. Comments and accusations welcome........
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
finish kit
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Subject: RV-List: dynon magentometer
>
> Folks, re the list provided about magnetometer locations, I don't mean to
> trash it, but I found that this thing is very sensitive to any steel or
> current within 12". I had it located 10 inches away diagonally from the
> aileron leading edge and it was all over the place, due to the steel pipe
in
> the aileron.
>
>
> 1. In front of the horizontal stab, under the vertical stab.
>
> Fair, but you have the steel hardware for the vert and horizontal stab, as
> well as elevator horns
>
> 2. On the rear of the baggage bulkhead, top and sides
>
> Poor, if steel or magnets are loaded into baggage area, and if slider
> version then you have steel canopy frame.
>
> 3. Outboard in a wing bay
>
> Seems like best place, as long as no major current wires nearby and in
> leading edge away from aileron.
>
> 4. Behind the pilot or copilots seat, mount to the horizontal crossbar
>
> Bad, flaps bar is steel, as well as flap motor, and baggage loading, see 2
>
> 5. Under the baggage floor skins
>
> bad, same as 2 and 4
>
> 6. Inside my wing fairing, I have P-40/Spitfire style fairings.
>
> bad, same as 2 and 4
>
> 7. Inside the baggage compartment
>
> bad, same as 2 and 4, (I assume that you don't mean the forward one in an
8,
> in which case if this location works then the internal unit should work.)
>
> 8. On the floorboards, just behind the pilot/copilot seats
>
> bad, same as 2 and 4
>
> 9. On any fuselage bulkhead behind the baggage compartment
>
> Fair, but a bitch to get to, and very hard to get exactly oriented and get
> it stiff enough to not vibrate.
>
> 10. Build a shelf somewhere behind the baggage compartment hang from top
> skin, or mount to bottom skin.
>
> Same as 9
>
> 11. Inside a wing tip.
>
> good as long as nothing else is in there
>
> As you can see this thing is not that easy to locate, particularly if you
> have a bunch of stuff in your wingtips and leading edges. Then once you
find
> a spot getting it matched to the main unit and mounted securly isn't that
> easy either.
>
> My notes on how I did it should be in the archives
>
> W
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
Subject: | invisible hinge on cowl oil door |
I remember reading awhile back about a cowl oil door that hinged in. When
stopped, it could be pushed down (open) to allow the hot air from the engine
to escape. With the engine running, the air pressure held it closed. It
must be in the archives somewhere. The only obvious problem I can think of
would be rain while parked. The hinge would be inside.
Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Aerobatic Stress |
I am out on the road ...does anyone have the stress limits for the 8A ???
--
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, NC N910LL
145 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RGray67968(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: invisible hinge on cowl oil door |
(0.6 points),
at.a.big.ISP(at)matronics.com
Hi Dan,
I have a 'flush' mounted door on my Six. So, speaking from 'experience': with
your current plan your door will NOT stay closed in flight on the hinged end
(we'll forget about the latching mechanism for now since you didn't show one).
The 'low pressure' air behind the air baffles WILL blow your door part way
open and the 'hinge arms' will bend and scratch all your pretty new paint. The
solution is to turn your hinges 90deg so the strength of the arm comes into
play. Just use your 'arms' as templates and draw a new 'arm' on a piece of 060
(you want the door to stay closed...right?). Then you'll have to make little
032. angles to attach the arms to the door.
I've got a few pics I can mail ya' if it will help.
Rick Gray RV6 in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm - took me a while to get my flush
door working but I'd make another one in a heartbeat - no visible hinge or latch
I'm playing around with a design for the hinge on the oil door on the cowl
that will make the hinge invisible. I'd like to get some feedback on it
before I commit to it. Here are some photos of the design, which I played
around with on scrap:
http://www.rvproject.com/oildoordesign.html
Do you see any potential snags with this design? Any reason why I would not
want to use it?
Or...are there any simpler tricks for making the hinge invisible?
Thanks in advance,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
(2.8 points)
'From' juno.com does not match 'Received' headers
Does anyone out there know what the combination of
stud,washer,nut and locking arrangement is used when mounting a Hartzell
to a O-320 B3B? Also I have one aluminum 12 in. spinner and a 12 in.
fiberglass spinner that I would like to sell/trade for a 13 in.
Joel "Weasel" Graber
RV-4 Finishing
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | WPAerial(at)aol.com |
Subject: | need tip up canopy repair ideas |
I have 170 hours on my RV6A. after coming back from Reno air race I found the
canopy had separated at the leading edge from the fiberglass on my tip up.
Any ideas how I should repair this?
Jerry Wilken
N699WP
Albany Oregon
541-926-8316
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Aerobatic Stress |
LIMITED_TIME_ONLY
>
>
>I am out on the road ...does anyone have the stress limits for the 8A ???
>
>--
>Len Leggette, RV-8A
>Greensboro, NC N910LL
>145 hrs
>
Len,
Should be +6/-3 at no higher than max aerobatic gross weight....I think it's
1550 lbs, unless you have the slightly modified spar that Van's made well
after my wing kit. Bumped it up 50 pounds maybe.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
> Jim Ayers
> Flight tests completed on two Hartzell props and an MT 3 blade Propeller.
And the results?
Randy Lervold
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Scott <rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com> |
Subject: | Pneumatic cleco tool--Some of us gotta have it! |
So I put about 300 clecos in my HS, then drilled, pulling & moving clecos
as I did so. Must have squeezed those things about 600 times. Next 3 days
I couldn't use my thumbs; arthritis at the base of them flared up from
repeatedly squeezing the cleco pliers.
Turns out The Yard (yardtools.com) has a pneumatic cleco tool on sale for
$25. Sold!
This thing works great! Faster than the pliers & holds the cleco straight
so it doesn't get cocked.
Needs about 70 pounds of air; with less it doesn't fully compress the cleco.
Dick Scott
RV-9A, Emp.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
Subject: | invisible hinge on cowl oil door |
Hi Dan,
I think you have the general shape of the hinge right, but I would make them
just the opposite. Meaning, carve the hinges out of a solid piece of thick
Aluminum, instead of bending a strap. The straps are somewhat prone to
stretching, and I've seen a similar setup that had to be re-done because the
straps just stretched. Think of the hinges on an old car glove box, or if
you need a picture, the same style I used on my flush door glove box
(http://www.steinair.com/N64YU.htm, and have seen on multiple oil doors.
Built that way, they can't stretch out and let the door come loose.
Just my 2 cents, not gospel.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
http://www.steinair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
Subject: RV-List: invisible hinge on cowl oil door
I'm playing around with a design for the hinge on the oil door on the cowl
that will make the hinge invisible. I'd like to get some feedback on it
before I commit to it. Here are some photos of the design, which I played
around with on scrap:
http://www.rvproject.com/oildoordesign.html
Do you see any potential snags with this design? Any reason why I would not
want to use it?
Or...are there any simpler tricks for making the hinge invisible?
Thanks in advance,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
Subject: | Re: Pneumatic cleco tool--Some of us gotta have it! |
Hi Dick,
Early in the beginning stage of building my 6-A I encountered difficulties
with the cleco pliers similar to what you describe, (very uncomfortable).
I used some thick wall heat shrink on the handles of my cleco pliers and the
problem went away. A side benefit was that the pliers are much less slippery
in the hand (read less likely to be dropped). Also, with the improved grip
in the hand, the clecos are easier to control therefore less fatiguing.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Scott" <rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com>
Subject: RV-List: Pneumatic cleco tool--Some of us gotta have it!
>
> So I put about 300 clecos in my HS, then drilled, pulling & moving clecos
> as I did so. Must have squeezed those things about 600 times. Next 3
days
> I couldn't use my thumbs; arthritis at the base of them flared up from
> repeatedly squeezing the cleco pliers.
>
> Turns out The Yard (yardtools.com) has a pneumatic cleco tool on sale for
> $25. Sold!
>
> This thing works great! Faster than the pliers & holds the cleco straight
> so it doesn't get cocked.
>
> Needs about 70 pounds of air; with less it doesn't fully compress the
cleco.
>
> Dick Scott
> RV-9A, Emp.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: need tip up canopy repair ideas |
> I have 170 hours on my RV6A. after coming back from Reno air race I found
the
> canopy had separated at the leading edge from the fiberglass on my tip up.
> Any ideas how I should repair this?
>
Maybe you didn't make the plexi rough enough, in the beginning. What one
could do is mix up some epoxy, use a straw that's flattened at one end that
can be pushed in between, and blow it in with the straw. Just be sure to
not suck the epoxy into your mouth as you fill the straw. :-) Of course,
you may have to slip something in between the plexi and the glass to allow
the epoxy to come out of the straw. It may even be a good idea to roughen
things up in between, first. The big hangup is that you'll most likely mess
up the paint.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
EAA Tech Counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Huft" <rv8tor(at)lazy8.net> |
Subject: | Re: invisible hinge on cowl oil door |
Dan, here is another design for the hinge...
http://www.lazy8.net/hinges.htm
I guess the whole thing is better suited to the 8, but take a look.
John Huft
RV8 120 hrs, Pagosa Springs, CO
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; SoCAL-RVlist(at)yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RV-List: invisible hinge on cowl oil door
>
>
> I'm playing around with a design for the hinge on the oil door on the cowl
> that will make the hinge invisible. I'd like to get some feedback on it
> before I commit to it. Here are some photos of the design, which I played
> around with on scrap:
>
> http://www.rvproject.com/oildoordesign.html
>
> Do you see any potential snags with this design? Any reason why I would
not
> want to use it?
>
> Or...are there any simpler tricks for making the hinge invisible?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jack Textor" <jack(at)personnelincorporated.com> |
Subject: | Pneumatic cleco tool--Some of us gotta have it! |
Dick,
I checked their site and couldn't find them. What category are they listed
under?
Jack
RV8
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Scott
Subject: RV-List: Pneumatic cleco tool--Some of us gotta have it!
So I put about 300 clecos in my HS, then drilled, pulling & moving clecos
as I did so. Must have squeezed those things about 600 times. Next 3 days
I couldn't use my thumbs; arthritis at the base of them flared up from
repeatedly squeezing the cleco pliers.
Turns out The Yard (yardtools.com) has a pneumatic cleco tool on sale for
$25. Sold!
This thing works great! Faster than the pliers & holds the cleco straight
so it doesn't get cocked.
Needs about 70 pounds of air; with less it doesn't fully compress the cleco.
Dick Scott
RV-9A, Emp.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
Here's a couple pics of my oil door hinge. I found the hinge on one of the junk
tables at Oshkosh. I plan to use a covered cooling plenum above the cylinders
so I'm not too concerned about the door bulging.... although anything is possible
as I haven't flown it yet!
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/2003-08-25/oil%20door%201.jpg
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/2003-08-25/oil%20door%204.jpg
Vince
F-1H Rocket
<http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/page1.html>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: invisible hinge on cowl oil door |
In addition to an invisible hinge, Dan, consider a manual release that will allow
the door to open and cool the engine compartment after landing. Then you'll
have done all my work for me!
Dave Reel - RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | Re: Pneumatic cleco tool--Some of us gotta have it! |
The pneumatic cleco tool is a cool thing to have in the shop, but 300
clecoes in the HS?
It is not necessary to put a cleco in every hole; a cleco in about every
third or fourth hole is *usually* plenty to hold the parts in alignment.
But with the pneumatic tool, how will you be recognized at fly-ins as an
RV builder if both your forearms are the same size??!??? ;-)
Sam Buchanan
========================
Richard Scott wrote:
>
>
> So I put about 300 clecos in my HS, then drilled, pulling & moving clecos
> as I did so. Must have squeezed those things about 600 times. Next 3 days
> I couldn't use my thumbs; arthritis at the base of them flared up from
> repeatedly squeezing the cleco pliers.
>
> Turns out The Yard (yardtools.com) has a pneumatic cleco tool on sale for
> $25. Sold!
>
> This thing works great! Faster than the pliers & holds the cleco straight
> so it doesn't get cocked.
>
> Needs about 70 pounds of air; with less it doesn't fully compress the cleco.
>
> Dick Scott
> RV-9A, Emp.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Scott <rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com> |
Subject: | Correct URL for "The Yard" & cleco tool |
The correct URL is yardstore.com; find the pneumatic cleco tool at
http://www.yardstore.com/tools/cleco.htm#an12165 & look near the bottom of
hte page or do a search for 12165.
Dick Scott
9A emp
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob <panamared2(at)brier.net> |
My Ultimate RV (Recreational Vehicle) would be a C-130, short dirt strip
capable, a bathroom, room for a kitchen, plenty of sleeping space
inside,you can carry your car/atv/snowmobile (you could even carry a Rocket
but would have to remove the wings). It sure is a lot of fun to fly, can
even fly through hurricanes and and other stuff. It flies on skis and I
heard of someone putting one on floats. The range is pretty good and
cruise is not bad.
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
(0.6 points),
at.a.big.ISP(at)matronics.com
In a message dated 09/22/2003 8:33:49 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
randy@rv-8.com writes:
> Jim Ayers
> Flight tests completed on two Hartzell props and an MT 3 blade Propeller.
And the results?
Randy Lervold
We used the installed two blade Hartzell CS propeller to get the reference
data with a know characteristic that maximum level flight speed was obtained at
2600 RPM.
The MT 3 blade CS Propeller was 2 mph faster with the same characteristic
that the maximum speed obtained in level flight was at 2600 RPM.
Since this HR2 was going to be running at Reno, we also tried a new Hartzell
2 blade "J" blade propeller. The propeller matched the performance of the MT
propeller from 2300 to 2600 RPM. However, the performance kept improving
above 2600 RPM. This propeller was used at the Reno races.
An F-1 Rocket using an MT Propeller at Reno was running one mph faster than
the HR2.
Jim Ayers
Not exactly unbiased
Southern California Homebuilt MT Propeller Distributor
BTW, the 3 blade MT Propeller is 9 pounds lighter than the Hartzell "J" 2
blade prop.
And even on the six cylinder engine, there was a significant reduction in
vibration using the 3 blade MT Propeller.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca> |
> My 4 airplanes would be:
> Taylorcraft L-2 w/85hp (an L-2 is a cub with Leg Room and they hooked up
the
> ailerons ;-).)
> IFR Rocket! (who needs an RV if you have a Rocket)
> P-51A Mustang (A Mustang without the hassles of a Merlin engine. Kits
will
> be available soon!)
> G-V ( If you are gonna dream, dream big!)
> A DC-3 would come in handy too for traveling parties too!!!
What, only monoplanes? What are you going to fly when it's hot out? Surly a
Fokker DR-1 or Stearman is needed for those hazy summer dawn patrols. Or
perhaps a Pitts, Beech Staggerwing or AN-2 depending on your personal
multi-wing tastes.
Oh, unless the G-V was referring to a WW-1 Gotha GV. A bit heavy on the
controls for a recreational airplane though. :-)
Curt
RV-6 C-GACR
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
Subject: | Re: need tip up canopy repair ideas |
----- Original Message -----
From: <WPAerial(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: need tip up canopy repair ideas
>
> I have 170 hours on my RV6A. after coming back from Reno air race I found
the
> canopy had separated at the leading edge from the fiberglass on my tip up.
> Any ideas how I should repair this?
>
>
> Jerry Wilken
> N699WP
> Albany Oregon
> 541-926-8316
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "GMC" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca> |
Subject: | Dynon Magnetometer (All Charged Up) |
"All Charged Up" a strange but true story.
I don't have a Dynon but have watched the posts about the super sensitivity
of the Dynon magnetometer and suddenly a light switched on, I remembered the
trouble I had with Underdogs compass.
Way back when, my Sirs Navigator compass was state of the art for
navigation, except it was about 60 degrees off when I tried to mount it in
Underdog, a 6A slider. All kinds of magnetism in everything, roll bar,
controls, everything!
Called in the specialists who degauss engine parts after magnaflux
inspection and they tried to demagnetize the roll bar, then they decided
that the crankshaft must be magnetized! Magnetism everywhere, just what I
really wanted to hear!
Driven almost to tears I purchased a marine compass with remote sensor.
Then I borrowed a gizmo from our local Hydro company that tests for EMF
fields. I found that there was all kinds of magnetism in my shop pouring out
from all those wonderful fluorescent lights I had installed.
Anyway seems like Underdog got all charged up sitting for years in all that
EMF from the fluorescent lights. Once Underdog got to the airport for final
assembly all the magnetism bleed off allowing the Sir's compass to be swung
to within two degrees.
Now who can hold a heading that close!
George McNutt
Langley, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <Fred.Stucklen(at)UTCFuelCells.com> |
Subject: | H10-40 Headsets for sale |
Listers,
I have two H10-40 headsets that I am no longer using, and would like to
sell. Both are a few years old, but in excellent condition. One has a head
pad and gel ear muffs. Both have foam mike filters.
I'm asking $150.00 each, or $275.00 for both. Anybody interested should
contact me off the list at the email address below.
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV 54 Hrs
fred.stucklen(at)utcfuelcells.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Huft" <rv8tor(at)lazy8.net> |
As an experiment, I dropped my old subscription to this list, and re-subscribed
under a new email address. During the past two months, I did not post a single
message, and I received no spam or virii. Then, yesterday I posted a message,
and last night I received 6 virus messages and 2 pleas for help from Nigerian
nationals.
My own conclusion is that people are "mining" this list for valid addresses. How
Matt can stop this is beyond me. I guess it is just the cost of sharing knowledge
and opinions with our fellow builders.
John Huft
RV8 Pagosa Springs, CO
www.lazy8.net/rv8.html
see you at Copper State and LOE
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
Subject: | Give my buddy a ride? |
vansairforce
Hi all...
I am still searching for a ride for a friend of mine if FL... I received a message
from Bernie Kerr regarding a flyin at Love's Landing this weekend and was
wondering if anyone who plans to attend this flyin could give my friend a ride...
Please let me know so I can tell him to show up...
Thanks!
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
----- Original Message -----
From: WALTER KERR
Subject: Orlando ride
Hi Bill,
There is an RV flyin by the FLA VAF this Saturday at Love's Landing just north
of Orlando , South of Ocala.
I'm sure if your friend showed up, someone would give him a ride. I'm bumming a
ride up since I can't legally fly at the moment after my MI.
Bernie Kerr, selling 6A, building 9A with rotary
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Rob Miller <rmill2000(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | RV-8 1st anniversary observations |
Hi Listers
It's been 1 year and 150 fun-filled hours since the first flight of my O-360 180
hp RV-8 "Bad Cat" last year. Here are some noteworthy items:
1. Carb Heat flange failed at 35 hours. The Van's supplied, tack-welded flange
just didn't hold up. A spun aluminum flange from Spruce has done the trick.
2. Main gear replaced at 40 hours with Grove aerodynamic aluminum gear. What
a nice mod! Saves on parts count, no lower cuffs to make, internal brake line,
and 11 lbs less weight--the wallet is lighter too!
3. Air box mounting plate cracked at 95 hours. Replaced 1/16th plate with 1/8th
stock.
4. Electric Bob fused based electrical system driving an all electrical panel
and a full Apollo stack has worked beautifully--no failures.
5. Control stick is a little short. Make yours long enough so that it just does
clear the bottom edge of the panel.
6. New O-360/Harzell has plenty of power. Lowest initial climb rate recorded:
Malad City 4000 +- MSL, 85 degrees gross weight (and then some) = 700 fpm.
7. CG is extreme forward w/full fuel (O-360, Hartzell, and Panasonic Battery up
front) and solo but flies ok.--I really like this setup with a heavy backseater
and lots of bags.
8. &
&%$#&*& gear towers cut in on leg room and prevent me from putting my feet flat
on the floor. This gets tiring on a long cross country.
9. Aircraft painted at 75 hours in Yerrington NV by Matthews Aviation--Nice guys
who did a great job. 4 color imron = $4300.
10. Buy a big hat! And also some slap up window tint. The sun will cook your
head!
11. Rivets on rear canopy skirt are working and some small cracks have developed
in the canopy. They have been stop drilled.
12. Performance= 75% 206 mph @ 8,000 ft; 65% 201 mph @ 11.5K, Time to climb to
11K = 7 minutes 35 sec @ 1600 lbs.
13. Fun fun fun -- keep on a rivetin'
Rob Miller N262RM 80153 "Bad Cat" 150 hours
Visit us at www.badcataviation.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
I think the problem is that many people on the List have a virus or
10. When the infected machine gets a message from you though the List, the
viruses just shoot their wad your way. I don't think its really mining per
say, just how certain viruses work.
Matt Dralle
At 06:59 AM 9/24/2003 Wednesday, you wrote:
>
>As an experiment, I dropped my old subscription to this list, and
>re-subscribed under a new email address. During the past two months, I did
>not post a single message, and I received no spam or virii. Then,
>yesterday I posted a message, and last night I received 6 virus messages
>and 2 pleas for help from Nigerian nationals.
>
>My own conclusion is that people are "mining" this list for valid
>addresses. How Matt can stop this is beyond me. I guess it is just the
>cost of sharing knowledge and opinions with our fellow builders.
>
>John Huft
>RV8 Pagosa Springs, CO
>www.lazy8.net/rv8.html
>see you at Copper State and LOE
>
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob <panamared2(at)brier.net> |
Subject: | Re: Dynon Report |
I finally installed the Dynon head in the A/C and before I installed the
magnometer, I had to check what software version I had on the Dynon.
Since I did not have the user's manual with me I thought this would be a
real bear. But, it was easy to do a temp wire up and turn it all on. Much
to my surprise it worked. So I started playing with all the buttons, and
sure enough I was able to get the software version, without reading pages
and pages of the user's manual.
Now I have read the user's manual and it is pretty good. But what I really
like, is how intuitive the switchology was for the system. Unlike my Grand
Rapids EIS and Rocky Mountain MicroEncoder, the Dynon can be operated
without having to use the User's manual at all. I am not knocking my RMI
or GRT systems, they are truly great, but the Dynon is just so much eaiser
to use and understand the output.
In a previous life I used to conduct testing of complex systems in a combat
environment. Human Factors and switchology was important to a soldier (or
helicopter pilot) on the battlefield with no time to review the manual
prior to operation. I find the Dynon far exceeds anything I have ever used
in this area. With little or no experience, most aviators could figure out
how to use this system. However, that is not true with the EIS or
MicroEncoder, at least I would not lend my aircraft to someone without a
good checkout on those two instruments.
I must give Dynon an A+ for ease of use and the human factors side of the
system. I have not flown with the system yet, so I can not comment on how
it works in the air. I can comment on the magnometer placement, as it is a
real pain!!! As other posts have indicated, there are few if any good
places to mount it. On my aircraft I have choices between bad and really bad!
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com> |
Subject: | magnetometer placement/mount update |
List:
Spent a part of today getting my magnetometer mount installed in my 6A.
I was concerned about the proximity of the shoulder harness cable to the magnetometer,
so I gave Dynon a call. I must say that I was impressed with how quickly
I was referred to Paul for technical help.
Paul indicated that my setup being as close as 10 inches from the shoulder harness
cable was perfectly acceptable. That is really the only ferrous material
close to where I have my tray mounted on F607. Mine is a slider, so I plan to
change the last two screws holding the rear slider rail on to brass.
Two things have surfaced regarding the design of my tray. First, I would recommend
riveting a piece of angle to the forward area of the horizontal component
of the tray to stiffen as well as level it. Otherwise it tends to distort and
upset the lateral alignment of the magnetometer.
Second, I plan to apply thick cyanoacrylate glue along the hinge line after I get
the tray aligned in pitch. This will prevent any side to side movement of the
hinge line due to inherent "slop" in the hinge itself. This glue is not to
prevent the hinge from "hinging", but rather to form "Washers" made of glue between
the hinge tabs, keeping the hinge from moving laterally.
Once the tray is installed and after I have my aft top fuselage skin riveted, I
may install more forward support from the front flange of the tray up to the
J channels on either side of the center fuselage rib (again, sorry I don't have
that part number infront of me). As it stands, I can get a slight twist in
the tray, but this may be due to the skin not being riveted and the center rib
twisting with the tray. This should be more ridged with the skin riveted on.
This added support would also prevent the hinge from moving laterally.
Just thought I would pass this on, especially that Dynon feels 10 inches away from
ferrous material is OK.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
finish kit
Peshtigo, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Fuel Managment System |
I am shopping for a fuel management system for my -6. I am considering the
E.I. FP-5L, Shadin Miniflo-L and the Matronics FuelChec DX. If any of you are
using these units would you share your experiences to help me make a decision.
Cash Copeland
RV6 Hayward, Ca
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | BillRVSIX(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Gyros 8 deg tilt question. |
Hello Quick question on a panel that has a 8 deg tilt I know the artificial
horizon has to have the tilt built in but dose the DG and turn coordinator need
to be set up for the 8 deg tilt panel.
Bill Higgins
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "D. Wayne Stiles" <dwstiles(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Imron paint calculations |
I'm asking this for another builder. Does anyone know what the square
footage paintable area is on an RV-6a slider, and/ or the approximate weight
of a single coat of Imron paint on the same plane
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
Subject: | Re: magnetometer placement/mount update |
Hi Jeff
This might work instead of messing with CA glue that might jam up the hinge
pin.
To stop the hinge segments from shifting laterally drill a hole in each of
two hinge segments very close to the hinge pin loop bases.
If the holes are drilled diagonally opposite one another on two opposing
loops a tie wrap cable tie can be threaded through and pulled tight holding
the hinge segments tight against each other.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: magnetometer placement/mount update
>
> List:
>
> Spent a part of today getting my magnetometer mount installed in my 6A.
>SNIP<
> Second, I plan to apply thick cyanoacrylate glue along the hinge line
after I get the tray aligned in pitch. This will prevent any side to side
movement of the hinge line due to inherent "slop" in the hinge itself. This
glue is not to prevent the hinge from "hinging", but rather to form
"Washers" made of glue between the hinge tabs, keeping the hinge from moving
laterally.
>
> Just thought I would pass this on, especially that Dynon feels 10 inches
away from ferrous material is OK.
>
> Regards,
>
> Jeff Orear
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel Managment System |
I have a Matronic DX and love it. Plus you have the best support in the
world right here on the list
through our great list administrator Matt Dralle :) the designer of the
FuelChec.
Jerry
JusCash(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>I am shopping for a fuel management system for my -6. I am considering the
>E.I. FP-5L, Shadin Miniflo-L and the Matronics FuelChec DX. If any of you are
>using these units would you share your experiences to help me make a decision.
>
>Cash Copeland
>RV6 Hayward, Ca
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: magnetometer placement/mount update |
Thanks Jim. Sounds like a better plan.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
finish kit
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: magnetometer placement/mount update
>
> Hi Jeff
>
> This might work instead of messing with CA glue that might jam up the
hinge
> pin.
> To stop the hinge segments from shifting laterally drill a hole in each of
> two hinge segments very close to the hinge pin loop bases.
> If the holes are drilled diagonally opposite one another on two opposing
> loops a tie wrap cable tie can be threaded through and pulled tight
holding
> the hinge segments tight against each other.
>
> Jim in Kelowna
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: magnetometer placement/mount update
>
>
> >
> > List:
> >
> > Spent a part of today getting my magnetometer mount installed in my 6A.
> >SNIP<
> > Second, I plan to apply thick cyanoacrylate glue along the hinge line
> after I get the tray aligned in pitch. This will prevent any side to side
> movement of the hinge line due to inherent "slop" in the hinge itself.
This
> glue is not to prevent the hinge from "hinging", but rather to form
> "Washers" made of glue between the hinge tabs, keeping the hinge from
moving
> laterally.
> >
> > Just thought I would pass this on, especially that Dynon feels 10 inches
> away from ferrous material is OK.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Jeff Orear
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Gyros 8 deg tilt question. |
No, of the normal flight instruments, I believe the AH is the only one. If
you get a gyro without the tilt (at least in my case) after the unit is
caged, the horizon drifts up and within about 10 minutes is also badly
lopsided. At Oshkosh, the guys at Kelly Manufacturing (R C Allen) told me
that that is a sympton of a non-tilted gyro installed in a tilted panel. I
understand the amount of tilt is not critical, ie. you don't have to order a
gyro with 7.5 degrees of tilt in it. Also, the panel tilt is measured in
straight and level flight not on the ground.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Gyros 8 deg tilt question. |
In a message dated 9/24/2003 4:01:13 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
BillRVSIX(at)aol.com writes:
Hello Quick question on a panel that has a 8 deg tilt I know the artificial
horizon has to have the tilt built in but dose the DG and turn coordinator
need
to be set up for the 8 deg tilt panel.
No.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 648hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
Knock on wood, but I dont get any spam.
Jeff
Im using earthlink if that matters.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Huft" <rv8tor(at)lazy8.net>
Subject: RV-List: virii
>
> As an experiment, I dropped my old subscription to this list, and
re-subscribed under a new email address. During the past two months, I did
not post a single message, and I received no spam or virii. Then, yesterday
I posted a message, and last night I received 6 virus messages and 2 pleas
for help from Nigerian nationals.
>
> My own conclusion is that people are "mining" this list for valid
addresses. How Matt can stop this is beyond me. I guess it is just the cost
of sharing knowledge and opinions with our fellow builders.
>
> John Huft
> RV8 Pagosa Springs, CO
> www.lazy8.net/rv8.html
> see you at Copper State and LOE
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
Subject: | question on windscreen fairing for slider |
Is it recommended to do anything to the inside of the windscreen to block
the view of the backside of the bond area at the base of the windscreen? I'm
wondering if I should paint that area on the inside of the windscreen. (I
couldn't find an answer in the archives.)
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
ready to install windscreen
http://my.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
---
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
Subject: | Re: question on windscreen fairing for slider |
Chris,
There are tints available from automotive paint and boat supplies that
can be added to epoxy to color it. I've used a black tint I got from a
boat supply store for the first layers of fiberglass on my windscreen
front fairing and over the top to avoid the regular fiberglass color.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
-6A finishing details (there are lots!)
C J Heitman wrote:
>
>
> Is it recommended to do anything to the inside of the windscreen to block
> the view of the backside of the bond area at the base of the windscreen? I'm
> wondering if I should paint that area on the inside of the windscreen. (I
> couldn't find an answer in the archives.)
>
> Chris Heitman
> Dousman WI
> RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
> ready to install windscreen
> http://my.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
>
> ---
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net> |
"Rv9-List(at)Matronics. Com" ,
"Rv8-List(at)Matronics. Com" ,
"Rv7-List(at)Matronics. Com" ,
"Rv6-List(at)Matronics. Com"
SUSPICIOUS_RECIPS
It appears that these FAA regs alone are not enough. My FAA representative
and our FAA DAR (who is a homebuilder, too!) has told me that it is not
sufficient to follow all the rules; instead, an FAA rep or DAR needs to
positively approve it. If the instrument avionics are not TSO'ed or
equivalent, then they will not sign off on it. Period. Without the FAA
positive approval, even if you do not violate any FAA regs, you cannot fly
IFR.
I think the FAA inspectors/DAR do not want to risk their jobs, and there is
no specific instruction to them that non TSO'ed instruments are ok in
experimentals, so they just refuse. If you can find one FAA inspector/DAR
who is willing to sign off e.g., a bluemountainavionics EFIS for IFR use,
then please let me know.
Sincerely,
Noel Simmons
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Resolver vs Converter education |
Fellow listers,
My UPSAT SL30 outputs both converter and resolver signals for an external CDI.
That and my GX60 are switched through the ACU for input to the whatever brand
CDI.
I have a NSD-1000 HSI that I am installing in the panel of my RV6A which takes
both of these signal types - this is intended to be the primary CDI. The Narco
NAV122D/GPS that I have will also take these signals as inputs.
The instructions for my SL30 indicate that the resolver signals need to be calibrated
and should not be switched. These instructions also state that supplemental
CDI's should use converter signals only.
I'm trying to understand the functionality provided by these different type of
signals....
Are they complementary - or similar in functionality? Can one set of signals be
used without the other?
Thanks,
Ralph Capen
Soooooo many little wires
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
Subject: | washers, forward elevator pushrod end |
I'm having one heck of a hard time getting the front rod end of the fwd
elevator pushrod attached to the control column. On the RV-7, the plans
call for one AN960-10 washer on each side of the bearing, sandwiched between
the bearing and the control column. The issue is that I can't really access
that area easily now that everything's assembled. I can get one washer in
no problem, then put the rod end in -- it's the 2nd washer that's a real
bear to install.
I've tried the tape-tab, superglue the washer to a screwdriver tip, hold
each washer with one bolt from each side, etc. tricks and it's just so
confined in there I can't seem to nail it. It's tough because the body of
the rod end blocks access from behind, and I can't really get in front of it
with my hands or a tool.
Any advice on this? I'll keep on keepin' on, but if there are other tricks
I'd love to hear about 'em!
Thanks,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "pauls(at)kc.rr.com" <pauls(at)kc.rr.com> |
"even if you do not violate any FAA regs, you cannot fly
IFR. "
WHAT ??
I am not to sure where you get this type of information, but if I were you,
not only would I not listen to this type of mumbo jumbo, I sure wouldn't be
repeating it!
Paul
do not archieve
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Chris Good" <chrisjgood(at)lycos.com> |
Subject: | Re: washers, forward elevator pushrod end |
Dan,
I've found that using a 2-3" length of hinge pin instead of the bolt is much easier
to get all the necessary washers in place. Then push the pin out with the
bolt, wiggling the pin about as necessary to get it through everything.
Chris Good, http://rv.supermatrix.com
West Bend, WI
RV-6A 600 hrs.
--
--------- Original Message ---------
DATE: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 11:13:59
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
>
>I'm having one heck of a hard time getting the front rod end of the fwd
>elevator pushrod attached to the control column. On the RV-7, the plans
>call for one AN960-10 washer on each side of the bearing, sandwiched between
>the bearing and the control column. The issue is that I can't really access
>that area easily now that everything's assembled. I can get one washer in
>no problem, then put the rod end in -- it's the 2nd washer that's a real
>bear to install.
>
>I've tried the tape-tab, superglue the washer to a screwdriver tip, hold
>each washer with one bolt from each side, etc. tricks and it's just so
>confined in there I can't seem to nail it. It's tough because the body of
>the rod end blocks access from behind, and I can't really get in front of it
>with my hands or a tool.
>
>Any advice on this? I'll keep on keepin' on, but if there are other tricks
>I'd love to hear about 'em!
>
>Thanks,
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D
>http://www.rvproject.com
Get advanced SPAM filtering on Webmail or POP Mail ... Get Lycos Mail!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: question on windscreen fairing for slider |
Chris,
On our 8A we painted the inside of the fairing - flat black to off set light
reflections.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (200+ hours)
>From: "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: question on windscreen fairing for slider
>Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 09:37:37 -0500
>
>
>Is it recommended to do anything to the inside of the windscreen to block
>the view of the backside of the bond area at the base of the windscreen?
>I'm
>wondering if I should paint that area on the inside of the windscreen. (I
>couldn't find an answer in the archives.)
>
>Chris Heitman
>Dousman WI
>RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
>ready to install windscreen
>http://my.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
>
>
>---
>
>
FREE! http://msnmessenger-download.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | BillRVSIX(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Gyros and 8 deg panel question. |
Hello Quick question on a panel that has a 8 deg tilt I know the artificial
horizon has to have the tilt built in but dose the DG and turn coordinator need
to be set up for the 8 deg tilt panel.
Bill Higgins
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
Subject: | Re: need tip up canopy repair ideas |
Hi Jerry::
In the original manual for my 6 (1990) it was optional regarding the
installation of the pop rivets (CS4-4) through the canopy base molding. For
the 6A it calls up the installation of these rivets at 4 inch spacing, was
wondering if you have those rivets installed. Although it may have happened
I have not heard of one separating with the rivets installed.
If you care to contact me I have some ideas on a repair.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
----- Original Message -----
From: <WPAerial(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: need tip up canopy repair ideas
>
> I have 170 hours on my RV6A. after coming back from Reno air race I found
the
> canopy had separated at the leading edge from the fiberglass on my tip up.
> Any ideas how I should repair this?
>
>
> Jerry Wilken
> N699WP
> Albany Oregon
> 541-926-8316
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Wayne Pedersen" <wayne(at)pedersentransport.com> |
Subject: | remote engine heater |
Winter is coming and I am looking at a remote control box that turns on your
engine heater -
see link http://www.goflying.cc/index.html
Anybody have any experience with this RS Beeper Box ? or other suggestions
and suppliers.
Thanks
Wayne RV7a - fuse
Southern Alberta
---
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stanley Blanton" <stanb(at)door.net> |
It appears that these FAA regs alone are not enough. My FAA representative
and our FAA DAR (who is a homebuilder, too!) has told me that it is not
sufficient to follow all the rules; instead, an FAA rep or DAR needs to
positively approve it. If the instrument avionics are not TSO'ed or
equivalent, then they will not sign off on it. Period. Without the FAA
positive approval, even if you do not violate any FAA regs, you cannot fly
IFR.
I think the FAA inspectors/DAR do not want to risk their jobs, and there is
no specific instruction to them that non TSO'ed instruments are ok in
experimentals, so they just refuse. If you can find one FAA inspector/DAR
who is willing to sign off e.g., a bluemountainavionics EFIS for IFR use,
then please let me know.
Sincerely,
Noel Simmons
Lot's has been written and is in the archives about this subject. Ask your
FAA or DAR person to show you the reg that requires TSO instruments for part
pi oiperations. Then you can post it here for the rest of us. This issue is
also discussed on the Bluse Mountain site.
They are not even required to sign off the installation. Typically your
operating limitations read something like ".. approved for VFR only unless
equipped for IFR.." It's up to you to make the determination.
Stan Blanton
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
Subject: | remote engine heater |
>
> Winter is coming and I am looking at a remote control box
> that turns on your engine heater - see link
> http://www.goflying.cc/index.html
>
> Anybody have any
> experience with this RS Beeper Box ? or other suggestions and
> suppliers.
>
> Thanks
>
> Wayne RV7a - fuse
> Southern Alberta
Wayne,
I hooked a line break thermostat on to the end of an extension cord. I
drop the whole thermostat end of the cord into the oil door, and plug
the engine heater (mine has a sump heater and cylinder heater bands)
into this cord. I set it at about 50F, and insulate the cowl well. I
also wedge a piece of foam rubber into the cooling air exit area. I
leave this on all the time during the winter, and I suspect the duty
cycle is not too high. I am quite happy with this arrangement, as the
year before I had it hooked to a telephone apparatus, and I always had
to plan to call the hangar the night before I planned to fly. I'd be
surprised if it used $10/month electricity.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 373 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
Subject: | Re: [rv8list] Buyer beware (a bit long) |
As am update, I finally got hold of the new owner (?) of moneeymart, no
I never got a call back, who informed me they would honor (grudgingly)
the published price.
Gert wrote:
> Hi Folks
>
> Today I went looking for oil on the internet. A friend who has done a
> big favor requested I don't pay him money but get engine oil for him to
> defer costs. He requested Phillips X/C 20W50.
>
> I searched the net using google and my quest led me to:
> http://www.mooneymart.com/ShopSite/engine_accessories.html
>
> they had the best rate if one considered also the shipping charges. I
> duly ordered 2 cases and stuck them on my credit card. In return the
> website made a receipt for me. on reading the receipt I found an error,
> was my mistake.
>
> Called the number on the web site and was told that the prices on the
> website are wrong, that the price on my receipt was wrong, matter of
> fact, I was told there are warnings on their website that the prices are
> wrong and that the website was 'down'.
>
> When told that I found their site through google, the person I talked to
> admitted that I would not see the warnings, which after all are on a
> different page. He was aware of this problem. He had no answer as to why
> his transaction server was up and running, charging credit cards and
> wrong pricing, if the website was really 'down'. ( it merrily acepted my
> credit card info ). I was then connected to another person who offered
> the same oil for about a dollar a bottle more, making it about the most
> expensive oil around and that they are changing ownership. I was told
> that the 'manager' or new owner would call me back.
> Of course, I never got a call back, I tried several times to call the
> supplied number with no success. I will call my credit card company, and
> put a stop on the payment. I called the better business bureau, they
> were very interested as it would be both interstate commerce and wire
> fraud if my credit card would be charged.
>
> Now, to me, an analogy would be to go to macdonalds, order food from the
> menu, pay and get a receipt. then whilst you wait for your tray to be
> filled, the manager tells you that you can't have your food because the
> prices on the menu board and charged by the person behind the counter
> were wrong and by the way if you had come into macdonalds through the
> other door you could have read the notice that the prices displayed are
> wrong. please pay extra or go away.
>
> I don't expect mooneymart to part the red sea for me, nor would I want
> to see a struggeling aviation shop to go under. I would have liked at
> least a confirmation that the transaction can not be consumed and that
> my credit card will not be charged, so far I have neither. I really
> don't want an appology, just a reasurance.
>
>
> There is a silver lining, the next best price I found, at
> www.stylesaviation.com, looked to good to be true too. 12 bottles bought
> separate would be cheaper than buying the same 12 in a case. Sent a
> quick email, and sure enough, the pricing on the website was old for the
> separate bottles.
>
> HOWEVER, I received a nice thank you email and was told that Styles
> Aviation stood by their pricing and would honor the website pricing at
> least today to give me a chance to buy the oil at the wrong price via
> the website.
>
> I duly ordered my oil from Styles Aviation and got a good rate on
> shipping too.
>
> I am in no way related to either website, nor have I done business with
> either before, I'll know however that I'll be back shopping at Styles
> Aviation, just for the fact that they honored their published pricing.
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
Subject: | question on windscreen fairing for slider |
> Is it recommended to do anything to the inside of the
> windscreen to block the view of the backside of the bond area
> at the base of the windscreen? I'm wondering if I should
> paint that area on the inside of the windscreen. (I couldn't
> find an answer in the archives.)
>
> Chris Heitman
> Dousman WI
> RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
> ready to install windscreen
I painted mine with flat black spray paint from the hardware store.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 373 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
OK, Time to jump in here. There is nothing in the regs requiring the
instruments in an
Amateur-Built aircraft to be TSO'd. There are some that say they must meet
the requirements for a TSO but that is different. I have gone round and
round on this issue with several people and they have ALL so far had to
agree with this. There is nothing in 91.205 about TSO'd instruments.
NOW, let's quickly talk the other side. Your friendly neighborhood FAA
Inspector or DAR does have to sign off your aircraft in your logbook. He is
saying that it meets the requirements for the certificate sought. He is
taking on a pretty big responsibility and may not be familiar with some
instruments/systems that are not TSO'd (like the Dynon EFIS D-10).
Therefore he may not be confortable with signing that off for IFR. If that
does happen and you don't like the respose you are getting from him/her,
then bump it up to their superviser. You can do that all the way up to the
Administrator if you so desire.
If you have any questions feel free to drop me a line directly and we can
talk.
Mike Robertson
Das Fed
>From: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "Rv-List(at)Matronics. Com" ,
>"Rv9-List(at)Matronics. Com" , "Rv8-List(at)Matronics.
>Com" , "Rv7-List(at)Matronics. Com"
>, "Rv6-List(at)Matronics. Com"
>
>Subject: RV-List: EFIS & IFR
>Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 11:28:09 -0600 SUSPICIOUS_RECIPS
>
>
>
>It appears that these FAA regs alone are not enough. My FAA representative
>and our FAA DAR (who is a homebuilder, too!) has told me that it is not
>sufficient to follow all the rules; instead, an FAA rep or DAR needs to
>positively approve it. If the instrument avionics are not TSO'ed or
>equivalent, then they will not sign off on it. Period. Without the FAA
>positive approval, even if you do not violate any FAA regs, you cannot fly
>IFR.
>
>I think the FAA inspectors/DAR do not want to risk their jobs, and there is
>no specific instruction to them that non TSO'ed instruments are ok in
>experimentals, so they just refuse. If you can find one FAA inspector/DAR
>who is willing to sign off e.g., a bluemountainavionics EFIS for IFR use,
>then please let me know.
>
>
>Sincerely,
>
>Noel Simmons
>
>
Frustrated with dial-up? Get high-speed for as low as $29.95/month
(depending on the local service providers in your area).
https://broadband.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: washers, forward elevator pushrod end |
Have you tried a piece od .020 safety wire or fishing line yet? If you
haven't thread the line thru the control yoke, then the washer, the rod end,
the other washer, then the other side of the control yoke. Once all
threaded pull on both ends of the line and most times everything will pop
into place enough to put a tapered pin punch on one end to further line up
the mass. Once the line is out and the puch is in you can tehn slide a bolt
in, pushing the pin punch out. This has worked for me several times when
nothing else would.
Mike Robertson
>From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: washers, forward elevator pushrod end
>Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 11:13:59 -0700
>
>
>I'm having one heck of a hard time getting the front rod end of the fwd
>elevator pushrod attached to the control column. On the RV-7, the plans
>call for one AN960-10 washer on each side of the bearing, sandwiched
>between
>the bearing and the control column. The issue is that I can't really
>access
>that area easily now that everything's assembled. I can get one washer in
>no problem, then put the rod end in -- it's the 2nd washer that's a real
>bear to install.
>
>I've tried the tape-tab, superglue the washer to a screwdriver tip, hold
>each washer with one bolt from each side, etc. tricks and it's just so
>confined in there I can't seem to nail it. It's tough because the body of
>the rod end blocks access from behind, and I can't really get in front of
>it
>with my hands or a tool.
>
>Any advice on this? I'll keep on keepin' on, but if there are other tricks
>I'd love to hear about 'em!
>
>Thanks,
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
High-speed Internet access as low as $29.95/month (depending on the local
service providers in your area). Click here. https://broadband.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Gyros and 8 deg panel question. |
From: | "Duberstein, Allen" <allen.duberstein(at)intel.com> |
Nope...just the DG.
Allen Duberstein
ODC Processor Architecture
503-712-2323
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
BillRVSIX(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Gyros and 8 deg panel question.
Hello Quick question on a panel that has a 8 deg tilt I know the
artificial
horizon has to have the tilt built in but dose the DG and turn
coordinator need
to be set up for the 8 deg tilt panel.
Bill Higgins
RV-6
=
=
http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Gyros and 8 deg panel question. |
From: | "Duberstein, Allen" <allen.duberstein(at)intel.com> |
SO next try....it's the AH that needs to be changed. If you don't alter
it you appear to be flying uphill all the time.
Sorry for the goof on previous mail
allen
Allen Duberstein
ODC Processor Architecture
503-712-2323
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
BillRVSIX(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Gyros and 8 deg panel question.
Hello Quick question on a panel that has a 8 deg tilt I know the
artificial
horizon has to have the tilt built in but dose the DG and turn
coordinator need
to be set up for the 8 deg tilt panel.
Bill Higgins
RV-6
=
=
http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
>
>
>It appears that these FAA regs alone are not enough. My FAA representative
>and our FAA DAR (who is a homebuilder, too!) has told me that it is not
>sufficient to follow all the rules; instead, an FAA rep or DAR needs to
>positively approve it. If the instrument avionics are not TSO'ed or
>equivalent, then they will not sign off on it. Period. Without the FAA
>positive approval, even if you do not violate any FAA regs, you cannot fly
>IFR.
>
>I think the FAA inspectors/DAR do not want to risk their jobs, and there is
>no specific instruction to them that non TSO'ed instruments are ok in
>experimentals, so they just refuse. If you can find one FAA inspector/DAR
>who is willing to sign off e.g., a bluemountainavionics EFIS for IFR use,
>then please let me know.
>
>
>Sincerely,
>
>Noel Simmons
Where does it say that an FAA or DAR signature is needed? Don't the
standard Operating Limitations simply say something to the effect of
"Aircraft restricted to day VFR unless equipped in accordance with FAR
91.XXX", where 91.XXX lists the equipment requirements for night or
IFR. So it is up to the pilot to decide whether the aircraft equipment
meets the requirements of FAR 91. Why make it more complicated than
that? By all means exercise good judgement and common sense when you
decide whether the aircraft is suitably equipped or not, but don't try to
fight needless bureaucratic battles.
Kevin Horton
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Chris Good" <chrisjgood(at)lycos.com> |
Subject: | Re: Resolver vs Converter education |
Ralph,
If you have the choice, use the resolver output rather than the converter. If
you have to use the converter output on the SL30, you lose the ability to monitor
the radial on the standby VOR frequency.
Unfortunately, I chose a KI-209 CDI head before realizing this :-(
Chris Good, http://rv.supermatrix.com
West Bend, WI
RV-6A 600 hrs
--
--------- Original Message ---------
DATE: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 12:53:06
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
>
>Fellow listers,
>
>My UPSAT SL30 outputs both converter and resolver signals for an external CDI.
That and my GX60 are switched through the ACU for input to the whatever brand
CDI.
>
>I have a NSD-1000 HSI that I am installing in the panel of my RV6A which takes
both of these signal types - this is intended to be the primary CDI. The Narco
NAV122D/GPS that I have will also take these signals as inputs.
>
>The instructions for my SL30 indicate that the resolver signals need to be calibrated
and should not be switched. These instructions also state that supplemental
CDI's should use converter signals only.
>
>I'm trying to understand the functionality provided by these different type of
signals....
>
>Are they complementary - or similar in functionality? Can one set of signals
be used without the other?
>
>Thanks,
>Ralph Capen
>Soooooo many little wires
Get advanced SPAM filtering on Webmail or POP Mail ... Get Lycos Mail!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Crosley, Rich" <RCROSLEY(at)HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM> |
I am getting ready to buy ANR headsets. What is everyone happy with?
Rich Crosley
RV-8 engine & finish stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: washers, forward elevator pushrod end |
Dan,
A trick I used was to cut a strip of scrap .025" aluminum, say, 5/8" wide,
length to suit and slot the end of it slightly narrower than the diameter of
the washer and file it so that you can snap it into the slot and it stays in
place (you can persuade it with a drop super glue if you wish) and then feed
the washer into the gap between the parts and feed the bolt through it. Then
it's easy to pull the "tool" out.You can bend and shape this "tool" to suit
your access needs.
You will find some other places that a similar "tool" can be useful, one is
installing the aileron hinge and push-rod bolts which are hard to get to
because the outboard end of the flap is in the way, but for that "tool", I
cut the slot on the side of the end of the strip to get the required access.
A similar "tool" can be made to hold nuts.
Cheers!!-----Henry Hore
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Fred Stucklen" <wstucklen1(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | H10-40 Headsets for sale (Sold) |
The headses have been sold....
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV 54 Hrs
From: "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <Fred.Stucklen(at)UTCFuelCells.com>
Subject: H10-40 Headsets for sale
Listers,
I have two H10-40 headsets that I am no longer using, and would like
to
sell. Both are a few years old, but in excellent condition. One has a
head
pad and gel ear muffs. Both have foam mike filters.
I'm asking $150.00 each, or $275.00 for both. Anybody interested
should
contact me off the list at the email address below.
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV 54 Hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | New Ray Allen G307 stick grips |
Listers,
Has anyone purchased the new stick grips from Ray Allen Co. yet? What is your
opinion of them?
Charlie Kuss
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: New Ray Allen G307 stick grips |
Charlie, what is web address for Ray Allen? How is your project coming? Has
Eric flown yet? We are putting our 8 in the paint shop the end of next month.
Sure be glad when it is done.
Ya'll take care.
Doug Preston
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
Subject: | Gyros and 8 deg panel question. |
> -----Or
>
> SO next try....it's the AH that needs to be changed. If you
> don't alter it you appear to be flying uphill all the time.
>
I don't believe this is the problem with using a non 8 degree tilt gyro
in our panels; if it were, one need only reset the little airplane. The
problem with a non tilt gyro is the various errors which will occur
during turns and acceleration/deceleration. Gyros, like everything
else, have compromises. One is that there are inherent errors that
occur, for example, during turns. If you watch closely, and execute a
180 turn, you will notice a slight error on a AH gyro after stopping the
turn. This error is likely quite small, but will be bigger if you are
in an 8 degree climb (or have a non tilt gyro - same thing). I don't
know how much the relative errors are in the two cases.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 373 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Nick N" <rvator(at)nicknaf.com> |
Really depends on what your preference / budget is. My first set is a
Headsets Inc. conversion for my DC 10-30's. Inexpensive ($250 ish),
easy to install, works as advertised, overall I'm very happy with the
kit. Takes 1 9v battery which lasts (if you remember to turn it off,
the new kits have a auto off feature) about 15-20 hours. My only
complaint with them was that my head would start to feel squeezed after
about 2 hours. This was in no way related to the conversion, but rather
a typical DC feature.
At Sun-N-Fun this spring I bought a pair of Lightspeed G3 Thirty's. WAY
comfortable! I can wear these all day with no problem. Battery life is
about double with two AA's. The G3's have Cell phone and Music input,
which I thought would be a neat toy at the time, but find invaluable
now. The ability to plug my MP3 player directly into the headset has
been great on those long cross countries, as the Cherokee I fly now does
not have a music input on the intercom. Cell Phone input... I really
didn't' think I would use this. I was wrong. Getting a Clearance from
FSS from the run up area is now a non-issue. No more straining to hear
them over the cockpit noise, and no more running from the FBO jumping in
the airplane trying to make a Void time.
I'm VERY happy with my Lightspeed's and hard pressed to buy anything
else.
Nick
Disclaimer: I'm in no way affiliated with either ANR Inc.
(http://www.headsetsinc.com/) or Lightspeed
(http://www.anrheadsets.com). Just a satisfied customer of both.
-----Original Message-----
From: Crosley, Rich [mailto:RCROSLEY(at)HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM]
Subject: RV-List: ANR Headsets
I am getting ready to buy ANR headsets. What is everyone happy with?
Rich Crosley
RV-8 engine & finish stuff
=
=
http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Seats & head to canopy clearnace |
Just read the post about the head sets hitting the canopy. This reminded me
of something I did when I ordered my seats. I am 6' 3" and find it very
difficult to find anything that fits me right such as cars airplanes etc.
So, when ordering my seats form Oregon Aero I had them make the front seat
bottom in 2 pieces. What they did was cut off 2 inches of the bottom of the
front seat and ship both pieces. I installed them on a hot day so the foam
compressed quickly. I put them in sat down closed the canopy and realized I
only had 1" clearance to the top of the canopy with out head sets. Pulled
out the 2" thick piece got back in and everything is now perfect. I highly
recommend having Oregon Aero make this modification for anyone near 6' 3"
or taller. Just imagine you have the seats upholstered and then realize the
seat bottom is too thick!
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
Nick,
What happens during cruise when ATC broadcasts while listening to music? Does
the music stay or cut out?
Charlie Kuss
>
>Really depends on what your preference / budget is. My first set is a
>Headsets Inc. conversion for my DC 10-30's. Inexpensive ($250 ish),
>easy to install, works as advertised, overall I'm very happy with the
>kit. Takes 1 9v battery which lasts (if you remember to turn it off,
>the new kits have a auto off feature) about 15-20 hours. My only
>complaint with them was that my head would start to feel squeezed after
>about 2 hours. This was in no way related to the conversion, but rather
>a typical DC feature.
>
>At Sun-N-Fun this spring I bought a pair of Lightspeed G3 Thirty's. WAY
>comfortable! I can wear these all day with no problem. Battery life is
>about double with two AA's. The G3's have Cell phone and Music input,
>which I thought would be a neat toy at the time, but find invaluable
>now. The ability to plug my MP3 player directly into the headset has
>been great on those long cross countries, as the Cherokee I fly now does
>not have a music input on the intercom. Cell Phone input... I really
>didn't' think I would use this. I was wrong. Getting a Clearance from
>FSS from the run up area is now a non-issue. No more straining to hear
>them over the cockpit noise, and no more running from the FBO jumping in
>the airplane trying to make a Void time.
>
>I'm VERY happy with my Lightspeed's and hard pressed to buy anything
>else.
>
>Nick
>Disclaimer: I'm in no way affiliated with either ANR Inc.
> (http://www.headsetsinc.com/) or Lightspeed
>(http://www.anrheadsets.com). Just a satisfied customer of both.
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Crosley, Rich [mailto:RCROSLEY(at)HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM]
>To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com'
>Subject: RV-List: ANR Headsets
>
>I am getting ready to buy ANR headsets. What is everyone happy with?
>
>
>
>Rich Crosley
>RV-8 engine & finish stuff
>
>
>=
>=
>http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report
>=
>=
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: FAB to carb attach |
Van's issued a service bulletin, 96-10-1 on 10-8-96 dealing with the
subject. For those of you that have not seen it, here is the gist:
"----The four bolts used to fasten the VA-130C (FAB-320) or the VA131C
((FAB-360) to the carburetor must be safetied. This may be accomplished by
either using bolts with drilled heads and safety wiring them in pairs, or
installing tab lock washers under the bolt heads. If the tab lock washers
are used , a 1/8" hole must be drilled in the top plate for the tab that
prevents the washer from rotating. After the bolt is installed, an ear of
the washer is bent up against one flat of the bolt head, preventing the bolt
from moving."--
Cheers!!---Henry Hore
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: need tip up canopy repair ideas |
>In the original manual for my 6 (1990) it was optional regarding the
>installation of the pop rivets (CS4-4) through the canopy base molding. For
>the 6A it calls up the installation of these rivets at 4 inch spacing, was
>wondering if you have those rivets installed. Although it may have happened
>I have not heard of one separating with the rivets installed.
My 1994 vintage manual also called up the rivets as per Eustace's post
above. A word of caution if you have not installed the rivets and are about
to so, be careful that the rivets near the center clear the metal strip
below that holds the weather strip. I know of an unfortunate individual who
installed the rivets and found he couldn't open his canopy after the fact,
having the rivets go right through into the weather strip angle!
Cheers!!----Henry Hore
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Nick N" <rvator(at)nicknaf.com> |
Its selectable on the battery box. You can set it to either soft mute
where it drops to about 5-10% of original volume when either the radio
or the intercom comes alive, or the always on mode where it will not
mute no matter who is talking.
I fly probably 98% of the time with the mute feature turned on. It's a
VERY quick fade out, not a sudden chop like some I've seen. I've found
the setup very friendly on the ears when switching from Pink Floyd to
Denver Center! :-)
Nick
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie Kuss
Subject: RE: RV-List: ANR Headsets
Nick,
What happens during cruise when ATC broadcasts while listening to
music? Does the music stay or cut out?
Charlie Kuss
>
>Really depends on what your preference / budget is. My first set is a
>Headsets Inc. conversion for my DC 10-30's. Inexpensive ($250 ish),
>easy to install, works as advertised, overall I'm very happy with the
>kit. Takes 1 9v battery which lasts (if you remember to turn it off,
>the new kits have a auto off feature) about 15-20 hours. My only
>complaint with them was that my head would start to feel squeezed after
>about 2 hours. This was in no way related to the conversion, but
rather
>a typical DC feature.
>
>At Sun-N-Fun this spring I bought a pair of Lightspeed G3 Thirty's.
WAY
>comfortable! I can wear these all day with no problem. Battery life
is
>about double with two AA's. The G3's have Cell phone and Music input,
>which I thought would be a neat toy at the time, but find invaluable
>now. The ability to plug my MP3 player directly into the headset has
>been great on those long cross countries, as the Cherokee I fly now
does
>not have a music input on the intercom. Cell Phone input... I really
>didn't' think I would use this. I was wrong. Getting a Clearance from
>FSS from the run up area is now a non-issue. No more straining to hear
>them over the cockpit noise, and no more running from the FBO jumping
in
>the airplane trying to make a Void time.
>
>I'm VERY happy with my Lightspeed's and hard pressed to buy anything
>else.
>
>Nick
>Disclaimer: I'm in no way affiliated with either ANR Inc.
> (http://www.headsetsinc.com/) or Lightspeed
>(http://www.anrheadsets.com). Just a satisfied customer of both.
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Crosley, Rich [mailto:RCROSLEY(at)HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM]
>To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com'
>Subject: RV-List: ANR Headsets
>
>I am getting ready to buy ANR headsets. What is everyone happy with?
>
>
>
>Rich Crosley
>RV-8 engine & finish stuff
>
>
>=
>=
>http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report
>=
>=
>
>
=
=
http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Don Mack" <don(at)dmack.net> |
Subject: | Gretz Aero pitot bracket kit |
I want to install the Dynon AOA meter which requires the Gretz Aero
(http://www.gretzaero.com/) pitot bracket kit. I had already drilled my 6A
wing as per plans for the standard pitot installation. Does anyone with a 6A
know if the bracket installs in the same location? I contacted Gretz and
have not received a reply.
Don Mack
don(at)dmack.net www.dmack.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Gretz Aero pitot bracket kit |
Don,
It does not. The Gretz mount is installed aft of the Spar adjacent to a
rib. With the extended profile of the pitot tube design (Dynon's included)
that fits the Gretz mount the measuring point is in approximately the same
air as the standard vans design. In our quick build, where the piot hole is
already drilled, we put a pop-in style chrome button in the old pitot mount
hole and make a new hole closer to the rib. Mounting instructions for the
Gretz mount come with the mount.
Mike Robertson
>From: "Don Mack" <don(at)dmack.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Gretz Aero pitot bracket kit
>Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 08:55:21 -0500
>
>
>I want to install the Dynon AOA meter which requires the Gretz Aero
>(http://www.gretzaero.com/) pitot bracket kit. I had already drilled my 6A
>wing as per plans for the standard pitot installation. Does anyone with a
>6A
>know if the bracket installs in the same location? I contacted Gretz and
>have not received a reply.
>
>Don Mack
>don(at)dmack.net www.dmack.net
>
>
Add MSN 8 Internet Software to your existing Internet access and enjoy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Aux Battery Location |
For those building all-electric airplanes with an aux battery, here's an idea for
its location.
See my installation at:
http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-pathatch
go to RV-7 Project, then Aux Batt Mount.
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 QB (Building)
Vero Beach, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: FAB to carb attach |
Mark: I drilled the heads of grade 8 bolts from the aviation supply aisle
at the local hardware store and safety wired them in pairs. Drilling those
suckers was (is) a challenge (learning experience). I went through four drill
bits and as many extra bolts trying to use my clunky drill press. A friend with
a good quality combi mill/drill press tool finally showed me how to do it.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, firewall forward
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Gretz Aero pitot bracket kit |
Don, actually you can mount the Gretz pitot kit in several locations. I
found it more convenient to move it to the next bay outboard of the
inspection cover to give more clearance from the tiedown. If you have
already drilled the hole in the flange/skin for Van's pilot tube, the Gretz
doubler has a joggle/flange that will probably cover this hole. Or you
could patch the hole and move the Gretz kit outboard.
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 QB (Building)
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Mack" <don(at)dmack.net>
Subject: RV-List: Gretz Aero pitot bracket kit
>
> I want to install the Dynon AOA meter which requires the Gretz Aero
> (http://www.gretzaero.com/) pitot bracket kit. I had already drilled my 6A
> wing as per plans for the standard pitot installation. Does anyone with a
6A
> know if the bracket installs in the same location? I contacted Gretz and
> have not received a reply.
>
> Don Mack
> don(at)dmack.net www.dmack.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Steven Eberhart <newtech(at)newtech.com> |
Subject: | Re: question on windscreen fairing for slider |
Has anyone used a very dark or black window tint film trimmed to just
cover the bond area? I am in the process of painting an RV-8 with PPG
Concept and need to do something about the back side of the molding that
shows through the canopy also.
Will be painting the fuselage in a week or so. Cowling is painted and I
am on a break letting the primer setup on the wing tips I just painted.
Starting to develop a nice feeling for PPG Concept. I was planning on
one gallon of primer and two gallons of color but that is looking like
it isn't going to be enough.
Steve Eberhart
RV-7A - working on wings and painting a friend's RV-8
lex Peterson wrote:
>
>>Is it recommended to do anything to the inside of the
>>windscreen to block the view of the backside of the bond area
>>at the base of the windscreen? I'm wondering if I should
>>paint that area on the inside of the windscreen. (I couldn't
>>find an answer in the archives.)
>>
>>Chris Heitman
>>Dousman WI
>>RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
>>ready to install windscreen
>
>
>
> I painted mine with flat black spray paint from the hardware store.
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> RV6-A N66AP 373 hours
> www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "McFarland, Randy" <Randy.McFarland(at)novellus.com> |
Subject: | Gretz Aero pitot bracket kit |
That makes two of us with that question.
R
----------
From: Don Mack [SMTP:don(at)dmack.net]
Sent: Friday, September 26, 2003 6:55 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Gretz Aero pitot bracket kit
I want to install the Dynon AOA meter which requires the Gretz Aero
(http://www.gretzaero.com/) pitot bracket kit. I had already drilled
my 6A
wing as per plans for the standard pitot installation. Does anyone
with a 6A
know if the bracket installs in the same location? I contacted Gretz
and
have not received a reply.
Don Mack
don(at)dmack.net www.dmack.net
http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Rob Miller <rmill2000(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: FAB to carb attach |
Mark
Spencer Aircraft in Washington State has just the bolts you need--Coarse threads
with drilled heads. The ones that came with the engine are not drilled--not
good, you wouldn't want the carb to ingest a loosened bolt and mine were not
quite long enough. Spencer has a number of sizes and I enjoy doing business with
them.
Rob Miller -8 N262RM "Bad Cat" 150 hours
visit us at www.badcataviation.com
HCRV6(at)aol.com wrote:
Mark: I drilled the heads of grade 8 bolts from the aviation supply aisle
at the local hardware store and safety wired them in pairs. Drilling those
suckers was (is) a challenge (learning experience). I went through four drill
bits and as many extra bolts trying to use my clunky drill press. A friend with
a good quality combi mill/drill press tool finally showed me how to do it.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, firewall forward
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Mike,
the question as I see it is that most EXPs are certified as VFR and are now
allowed to make major alterations with a log book sign off and 5 hours of
flight testing. So does making the major alterations such that it is now IFR
qualified constitute only making major alterations or does it constitute a
change in certification status which is then being interpreted as a need for
recertification. From what I can devine from my Special Airworthiness
Certificate addendum this is only a major alteration and the aircraft is
still Special Airworthiness - Experimental regardless of mission
capabilities.
I would also state that parts of FAR 91.205 D are quickly becoming out of
date given the pending evolution of technology and I would hope your
contemporaries are looking at that. But I'm not sure there is a fix that
would ever be received well in the NPRM process. The key seems to be a
clarification of the term "Gyroscopic". Must this be an object of definable
mass spinning around, or can it be an electronic sensor system sensing the
same or similarly reliable physical phenomina?
At this point, in your shoes with my inspector/agent status on the line I
would be conservative and say, "The Law says, where is the gyro in it???"
But that doesn't preclude that the new systems aren't viable and should be
allowed into our airplanes for IFR use. It is one of the FAA's charters to
help maintain the economic viability of this industry. So it will be
interesting to see how this plays out.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
Subject: | Re: ANR Headsets |
Michael J. Robbins wrote:
> So, you have to try them all if you are going to buy the high end ones. And
> you generally do get what you pay for.
For what it's worth, here's a link to a review our flying club did a
while ago. In the end, we decided the Lightspeed QFR Cross Country was
the best ANR headset "bang-for-the-buck". They're not pretty, but they
are pretty robust, and they do work well. As always, your mileage may vary.
http://www.b4.ca/raa_85/story/ANRHeadsets/
-Rob Prior
rv7 "at" b4.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
I didn't realize the DAR or FAA inspector had any say in whether the
plane can be flown under an IFR flight plan. The operating limitations
allow day VFR ops, and night VFR/IFR ops if equipped according to
91.205; it is the pilot's responsibility to determine whether or not the
plane is so equipped.
There is no such thing as an "FAA IFR certification" for an experimental
aircraft.
The big question is whether or not the insurance carrier is satisfied
the aircraft was properly equipped for the conditions under which an
accident occurred.
Sam Buchanan
==================
Wheeler North wrote:
>
>
> Mike,
>
> the question as I see it is that most EXPs are certified as VFR and are now
> allowed to make major alterations with a log book sign off and 5 hours of
> flight testing. So does making the major alterations such that it is now IFR
> qualified constitute only making major alterations or does it constitute a
> change in certification status which is then being interpreted as a need for
> recertification. From what I can devine from my Special Airworthiness
> Certificate addendum this is only a major alteration and the aircraft is
> still Special Airworthiness - Experimental regardless of mission
> capabilities.
>
> I would also state that parts of FAR 91.205 D are quickly becoming out of
> date given the pending evolution of technology and I would hope your
> contemporaries are looking at that. But I'm not sure there is a fix that
> would ever be received well in the NPRM process. The key seems to be a
> clarification of the term "Gyroscopic". Must this be an object of definable
> mass spinning around, or can it be an electronic sensor system sensing the
> same or similarly reliable physical phenomina?
>
> At this point, in your shoes with my inspector/agent status on the line I
> would be conservative and say, "The Law says, where is the gyro in it???"
> But that doesn't preclude that the new systems aren't viable and should be
> allowed into our airplanes for IFR use. It is one of the FAA's charters to
> help maintain the economic viability of this industry. So it will be
> interesting to see how this plays out.
>
> W
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Wheeler,
See notes imbedded in each paragraph
>
>
>Mike,
>
>the question as I see it is that most EXPs are certified as VFR and are now
>allowed to make major alterations with a log book sign off and 5 hours of
>flight testing. So does making the major alterations such that it is now
>IFR
>qualified constitute only making major alterations or does it constitute a
>change in certification status which is then being interpreted as a need
>for
>recertification. From what I can devine from my Special Airworthiness
>Certificate addendum this is only a major alteration and the aircraft is
>still Special Airworthiness - Experimental regardless of mission
>capabilities.
>
On this issue we really need to look at YOUR aircraft's Operating
Limitations and what they say. If you have the older operating limitations
that state you must seek and get approval for any major change then you will
need to seek approval for installing those extra items need on your aircraft
to meet the requirements of 91.205(e). Those same older operating
limitations alwo usually stated that your aircraft was/is restricted to VFR
day, or VFR night, of IFR. If you have the newer operating limitations that
allow you to make major changes/alterations yourself and place the aircraft
back into a five hour test flight period, then you are in luck because these
limitations also usually say that your aircraft is restricted to day VFR
unless appropriately equipped for night and/or IFR. So on these you install
the needed equipment, test fly it for a minimum of 5 hours, sign it off
yourself and go fly night and/or IFR.
But for those of you with the older operating limitations there is an out.
If you have the older operating limitations you can apply for, and will be
granted, newer operating limitations as layed out in Order 8130.2E. This
order is available to all on the internet.
>I would also state that parts of FAR 91.205 D are quickly becoming out of
>date given the pending evolution of technology and I would hope your
>contemporaries are looking at that. But I'm not sure there is a fix that
>would ever be received well in the NPRM process. The key seems to be a
>clarification of the term "Gyroscopic". Must this be an object of definable
>mass spinning around, or can it be an electronic sensor system sensing the
>same or similarly reliable physical phenomina?
If you were to look in Part 23.1311 you will notice that the newer MFD
instruments are addressed and can replace "gyroscopic" instruments. So now
instead of "Gyroscopic" meaning a physical style of instrument it has
evolved to be understood to mean a gyroscopic type of instrument. In type
certificated aircraft if they do use MFDs for their flight instruments they
must also have a backup but this does not apply to homebuilt aircraft. The
important thing here is that we are supposed to already recognize MFDs as a
gyropscopic type of instrument if it displays attitude, etc.
>
>At this point, in your shoes with my inspector/agent status on the line I
>would be conservative and say, "The Law says, where is the gyro in it???"
>But that doesn't preclude that the new systems aren't viable and should be
>allowed into our airplanes for IFR use. It is one of the FAA's charters to
>help maintain the economic viability of this industry. So it will be
>interesting to see how this plays out.
>
At this time I am trying to put together the needed information, with
specifics, to write something to clarify this issue. Generally speaking I
hate writing lengthly documents but I feel strongly that this issue needs
some input so I am going to try to force myself to write this.
Unfortunately something of this nature has to be reviewed by the powers on
high so it will take several weeks before I will be able to let it out. I
will let everybody know when it is ready.
Mike Robertson
Get McAfee virus scanning and cleaning of incoming attachments. Get Hotmail
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Gretz Aero pitot bracket kit |
It doesn't....
I have some pictures if you want to see what I did.
Zap me directly,
Ralph Capen
***SNIP***
> I want to install the Dynon AOA meter which requires the Gretz Aero
> (http://www.gretzaero.com/) pitot bracket kit. I had already drilled my 6A
> wing as per plans for the standard pitot installation. Does anyone with a
6A
> know if the bracket installs in the same location? I contacted Gretz and
> have not received a reply.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim.Truitt(at)usdoj.gov" <Jim.Truitt(at)usdoj.gov> |
Just wanted to let everyone know - kit # 81610, an RV-8A (N627TT), is
now flying. 180 hp. Aero Sport Power, carb, Sensenich fixed pitch 85",
full interior, day/night VFR, 1107 lbs.
A lot of thanks to John Crabtree, Vince Frazier, and Steve Steckler for all
their help, and especially John's "engineering s*** ".
Special thanks to my most patient and loveable wife, Terri, who, by the
way, designed the paint scheme and the interior, and installed the
interior.
Flys GREAT! Only 8 hours so far - can't wait to get some more stick
time!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Stephenson" <mike(at)proclaimweb.com> |
Subject: | Re: Seats & head to canopy clearnace |
At Oshkosh, I purchased an ear plug headset from
http://www.quiettechnologies.com/ for less than the cost of a good ANR
headset you get better noise canceling and it will never hit the canopy. The
total weight is 0.38 oz (11 grams) I have 20 hours flight time on it in both
a Cessna Skylane and an RV-6A and there is nothing better. I have already
sold my David Clark and Lightspeed headsets. Sweaty ears no more and no more
bad hair days for my wife.!!!!
The company is owned by a nice feller who will return you money if you don't
like them. Not everyone can wear this headset. If you ear canal is shaped
like a funnel the boom mic will pivot downward. If your canal has a slight
angle it works very well.
<bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
> Just read the post about the head sets hitting the canopy.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David Schaefer" <dschaefer1(at)kc.rr.com> |
Subject: | High Pressure Fuel Pump Location - RV6A?? |
I'm wondering where the RV6 folks with I0-360's mount the high pressure
fuel pump that's required. I really don't like the idea of running it
down the center floor. Does anyone have any good pictures I can take a
look at for ideas?
Thanks..
David Schaefer
RV6-A Finish
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
Subject: | High Pressure Fuel Pump Location - RV6A?? |
> I'm wondering where the RV6 folks with I0-360's mount the
> high pressure fuel pump that's required. I really don't like
> the idea of running it down the center floor. Does anyone
> have any good pictures I can take a look at for ideas?
>
> Thanks..
>
> David Schaefer
David, see http://www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson and click on misc,
you can see where I mounted mine.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 373 hours (doing second annual already!)
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <pshipley17(at)comcast.net> |
Is the HIO-360-D1A from the Schweizer 300C helicopter practical for use in an RV?
This is the angle valve engine with a conical mount and a rear mount for the
fuel injection servo. I am building an RV-4 and was wondering if the modifications
would be worth the effort. Would this engine be suitable for an RV-8?
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | FlashandCo(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Bottom Cowl Exit |
There was some discussion just recently about adding a "scupper" to the bottom
cowl exit, apparently to create a better low pressure area for cooling air exit.
I just trimmed the bottom edge of my RV6/O-360 bottom cowl but left the cowl
exit (center part) edge long as it came from Van's. Is there any benefit to
the longer edge (better alignment of exit air) or should I just cut it in line
with the bottom cowl aft edge? Looks like the Vetterman exhaust would work
fine either way.
Bob Gordon
Dover DE
RV6 Electrics, etc.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Van's brake system and rear seat rudder pedal extensions |
I am inventorying my QB fuse parts and am having second thoughts on a couple
of items.
I got the RV8 rear passenger rudder extensions. I am now leaning towards
them being a $93 dollar waste and think I would rather put the $ towards
something like the Andair fuel valve or a different brake master cylinder
system.
Who's got a URL showing an alternative master cylinder system that'll
provide a low/easy maintenance and cleanup job?
Any firm opinions?
thx,
lucky
Frustrated with dial-up? Get high-speed for as low as $29.95/month
(depending on the local service providers in your area).
https://broadband.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tailgummer(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Van's brake system and rear seat rudder pedal extensions |
You may want to see Randy Lervold's website:
Click here: RV-8.com - Ideas & Products
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
Subject: | Re: Bottom Cowl Exit |
>
>There was some discussion just recently about adding a "scupper" to the
>bottom cowl exit, apparently to create a better low pressure area for
>cooling air exit. I just trimmed the bottom edge of my RV6/O-360 bottom
>cowl but left the cowl exit (center part) edge long as it came from
>Van's. Is there any benefit to the longer edge (better alignment of exit
>air) or should I just cut it in line with the bottom cowl aft edge? Looks
>like the Vetterman exhaust would work fine either way.
>
>Bob Gordon
>Dover DE
>RV6 Electrics, etc.
Unless you are having cooling problems I'd leave it straight. No sense in
adding extra drag that isn't needed.
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
13B in gestation mode
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
Subject: | Bottom Cowl Exit |
Hi Bob,
You are ok leaving it be for the time being, but you may find out that you
need to trim some more off. I left mine, but ended up cutting about another
inch off this summer to keep my CHT's in order. Depends on the airplane.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
http://www.steinair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
FlashandCo(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Bottom Cowl Exit
There was some discussion just recently about adding a "scupper" to the
bottom cowl exit, apparently to create a better low pressure area for
cooling air exit. I just trimmed the bottom edge of my RV6/O-360 bottom cowl
but left the cowl exit (center part) edge long as it came from Van's. Is
there any benefit to the longer edge (better alignment of exit air) or
should I just cut it in line with the bottom cowl aft edge? Looks like the
Vetterman exhaust would work fine either way.
Bob Gordon
Dover DE
RV6 Electrics, etc.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Bottom Cowl Exit |
Hi All,
On the HR2, John Harmon recommends not trimming the bottom of the cowl below
the firewall. Just let it extend back along the bottom of the fuselage. This
has been found to improve the airflow.
However, this is the very end of a long engine cooling system. A few other
factors are involved in getting proper cooling. Not to mention low drag.
Jim Ayers
Less Drag products, Inc.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | [ Charles F. Long ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Charles F. Long
Subject: GPS Color Moving Map For Less Than $500
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/charles.long@gm.com.09.27.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
Subject: | Re: seats fabrics.. |
> Hello:
>
> I am ready to have my seats upholstered, got
> samples of materials etc..
>
> Question, what is the type most used on our rv's?
> besides leather..
>
> Are the fabrics, synthetic, cotton, wool?
>
> the samples I got, do not specified the type
> of material..
>
> Any information and suggestions will be appreciated
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Bert
You can do none better than having DJ Lauritsen do your interior. She has
done probably the majority of RV's on the planet and her workmanship is
impeccable. Contact her at Cleaveland Aircraft Tool and she'll send you
samples and discuss all the alternatives.
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
RV-4, N722DW
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | [ Henry Hore ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Henry Hore <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Subject: Corrosion Inside Fuel Tank Cap
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com.09.27.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
Speaking of seats, how does everybody attach the seat cusions to the seat
frames.
I tried gluing a half strip of velcro to the metal seat back and seat base,
with the other half sewn into the fabric cusion. Problem is, I've yet to
find a glue that's stronger then the velcro. Any time I need to remove the
cusion, the glued velcro strip comes along with it.
I suppose I could rivet the velcro strip to the seat back. Any other ideas?
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
> Speaking of seats, how does everybody attach the seat cusions
> to the seat frames.
>
> I tried gluing a half strip of velcro to the metal seat back
> and seat base, with the other half sewn into the fabric
> cusion. Problem is, I've yet to find a glue that's stronger
> then the velcro. Any time I need to remove the cusion, the
> glued velcro strip comes along with it.
>
> I suppose I could rivet the velcro strip to the seat back.
> Any other ideas?
>
> Andy
The stick'em that is on good quality velcro will probably hold. To
improve the odds, though, have the piece that is sewn to the seats be
much smaller than the piece that is stuck onto the metal. This will
avoid pulling up an edge.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 373 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Chris Good" <chrisjgood(at)lycos.com> |
In a couple of places, I've found that a pop rivet at each end of a long pice of
velcro will stop it peeling away.
Chris. good.
--
--------- Original Message ---------
DATE: Sat, 27 Sep 2003 18:23:19
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
>
>> Speaking of seats, how does everybody attach the seat cusions
>> to the seat frames.
>>
>> I tried gluing a half strip of velcro to the metal seat back
>> and seat base, with the other half sewn into the fabric
>> cusion. Problem is, I've yet to find a glue that's stronger
>> then the velcro. Any time I need to remove the cusion, the
>> glued velcro strip comes along with it.
>>
>> I suppose I could rivet the velcro strip to the seat back.
>> Any other ideas?
>>
>> Andy
>
>The stick'em that is on good quality velcro will probably hold. To
>improve the odds, though, have the piece that is sewn to the seats be
>much smaller than the piece that is stuck onto the metal. This will
>avoid pulling up an edge.
>
>Alex Peterson
>Maple Grove, MN
>RV6-A N66AP 373 hours
>www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
Get advanced SPAM filtering on Webmail or POP Mail ... Get Lycos Mail!
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Corrosion inside a fuel tank cap |
Hi listers,
Matronics has just posted a Photo Share that I submitted on the subject. To say
that I was surprised to find what I did is an understatement considering the
short time the aircraft has been in service. I hope the text of the photo-share
and what I added below can be useful to you if you encounter the same problems.
I'd like to expand on some details over the write-up in the photo-share:
After the penetrating oil soaking, I chucked the stud in my lathe and removed the
stud, but some skidding occurred which caused some scoring that can be seen
in the photo, and as can be seen, the remnant of the roll-pin
There is no evidence of any plating on the parts and there should be. At least
Cad plating (like rivets) or preferably Nickel plating to prevent the corrosion
observed. Another problem which caused the reason for the attempt of adjustment
was that the latch-lever no longer nestled flat inside the top cap when closed.
There is a fiber spacer-washer beneath the latch-lever which takes the brunt
of the pressure of the latch when it is being closed. The fiber material
is too soft as there were deep gouge marks in it caused by the lands of the latch.
I made a new spacer out of epoxy-glass printed circuit board material and
this is working fine.
The roll-pin that holds the latch to the stud is 1/16" diameter 3/4" long. I have
a good selection of roll pins but not that length in the required diameter.
So I ended up using two pins of equal length installed into the stud from each
side of
the latch lever and seems to work OK.
Cheers!!-----Henry Hore
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
Subject: | Corrosion inside a fuel tank cap |
Hi Henry,
Just a couple of notes about fuel caps. The "plastic / fiber" spacer under
the flipper has since been replaced by Van's with metal spacers. Both my
platic ones failed pretty quickly, and I just made my own out of aluminum.
Also, regarding the pins, a good drill bit shaft will last forever, those
roll pins have a tendency to break. I carry a couple extras now just in
case!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
http://www.steinair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Elsa & Henry
Subject: RV-List: Corrosion inside a fuel tank cap
>>>>>>There is a fiber spacer-washer beneath the latch-lever which takes
the brunt of the pressure of the latch when it is being closed. The fiber
material is too soft as there were deep gouge marks in it caused by the
lands of the latch.>>>>
>>>>>The roll-pin that holds the latch to the stud is 1/16" diameter 3/4"
long. I have a good selection of roll pins but not that length in the
required diameter. So I ended up using two pins of equal length installed
into the stud from each side of
the latch lever and seems to work OK.
Cheers!!-----Henry Hore
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
Subject: | Re: Van's brake system and rear seat rudder pedal extensions |
Lucky,
Just curious, why would you want to change the master cylinder system?
Dave
lucky macy wrote:
>
>I am inventorying my QB fuse parts and am having second thoughts on a couple
>of items.
>
>I got the RV8 rear passenger rudder extensions. I am now leaning towards
>them being a $93 dollar waste and think I would rather put the $ towards
>something like the Andair fuel valve or a different brake master cylinder
>system.
>
>Who's got a URL showing an alternative master cylinder system that'll
>provide a low/easy maintenance and cleanup job?
>
>Any firm opinions?
>
>thx,
>lucky
>
>Frustrated with dial-up? Get high-speed for as low as $29.95/month
>(depending on the local service providers in your area).
>https://broadband.msn.com
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Greg Grigson <iflyhawaii2(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: W&B on a -6A |
Doug,
What engineering design changes did you make to Van's standard RV 6A aircraft
to permit a gross weight of 1800 lbs? The RV 6A has been designed and tested
to certain load limitations by the kit manufacturer (my RV 6A manual states
maximum gross weight as 1650 lbs). Any alteration of these limitations would
require certain design changes and possibly flight testing. To forgo such a process
is not prudent in my opinion. I hope I have mistakenly misinterpreted
your posting, if so I apologize in advance.
Safe Flying!
Aloha
Greg Grigson
dmedema(at)att.net wrote:
I recently weighed my plane both level and in the
normal on-ground attitude. The results were very
interesting to me so I thought I would share them.
I originally weighed it in the normal on-ground
attitude thinking I could convert it to level values
using some trig. It turns out you need to know the
exact height of the real center-of-gravity to do
this calculation. I made an estimate based on the
W&B drawings from Van's but didn't feel comfortable
with it. I built some ramps to get it level and
re-weighed it to get it right. Here are the results
On-ground Level
Nose tire: 236 272
Right tire: 396 377
Left tire: 394 378
The total weight was only 1 pound different which I
consider a good sign of repeatability for the scales.
The empty weight c.g. for the on-ground numbers
is 70.45 inches while for level, it is 68.51.
I'm putting my airplane's gross at 1800 which will
allow me to have two 225lb. people, full fuel, and
over 90 pounds of baggage and still stay in proper
c.g. range and gross weight. C.G. is still ok after
all the fuel is used in this scenario.
I was quite surprised that lifting the main gear
approximately 4 inches transferred 36 more pounds
onto the front gear. For reference, the plane is
unpainted with minimal interior. It has an 0-320-E2D
with standard starter, Van's 35 amp alternator, an
Odyssey battery just in front of the firewall, and
a fixed pitch Sensenich prop.
Doug Medema
RV-6A N276DM ready for inspection!
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Warren W Hurd <warren(at)ahyup.com> |
Matronics RV9 List
Subject: | Bad wing rib to spar rivets |
I have been happy with most of my rivets until now. During the riveting
of the wing ribs to the main wing spar I badly deformed some of the
factory rivet heads. See them at http://www.ahyup.com/Rivet/ To make the
rivets I used a 2X gun at about 60 psi. It would take 3 to 4 seconds to
make the shop head to my satisfaction. I was paying much to much
attention to the shop head and ignoring the factory head.
I also made some smileys in the ribs. What should I do to make this
better?
Warren Hurd
90454 Wings
http://www.ahyup.com
Mushroomed Rivets
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Van's brake system and rear seat rudder pedal extensions |
Only because I didn't know ACS made little reservoirs that would fit on
Van's cylinders! But someone pointed out to me that ACS sold the A-600 with an
unvented plug at the top that can be threaded directly onto Van's master
cylinder and they are about $11 a piece.
lucky
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Fred Stucklen" <wstucklen1(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Corrosion inside a fuel tank cap |
Henry & Listers,
I have noticed that on one of my tank caps, the lever also doesn't fit
down flat, so I'm left wondering if I don't have a similar problem. Since a
properly fitted cap is essential for keeping rain water out f the tank, this
might well be good iem to add to the conditional inspection list, and/or
preflight list.......
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV 55+ hours
From: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Subject: Corrosion inside a fuel tank cap
<elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Hi listers,
Matronics has just posted a Photo Share that I submitted on the
subject. To say
that I was surprised to find what I did is an understatement
considering the
short time the aircraft has been in service. I hope the text of the
photo-share
and what I added below can be useful to you if you encounter the same
problems.
I'd like to expand on some details over the write-up in the
photo-share:
After the penetrating oil soaking, I chucked the stud in my lathe and
removed the
stud, but some skidding occurred which caused some scoring that can be
seen
in the photo, and as can be seen, the remnant of the roll-pin
There is no evidence of any plating on the parts and there should be.
At least
Cad plating (like rivets) or preferably Nickel plating to prevent the
corrosion
observed. Another problem which caused the reason for the attempt of
adjustment
was that the latch-lever no longer nestled flat inside the top cap
when closed.
There is a fiber spacer-washer beneath the latch-lever which takes the
brunt
of the pressure of the latch when it is being closed. The fiber
material
is too soft as there were deep gouge marks in it caused by the lands
of the latch.
I made a new spacer out of epoxy-glass printed circuit board material
and
this is working fine.
The roll-pin that holds the latch to the stud is 1/16" diameter 3/4"
long. I have
a good selection of roll pins but not that length in the required
diameter.
So I ended up using two pins of equal length installed into the stud
from each
side of
the latch lever and seems to work OK.
Cheers!!-----Henry Hore
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re:Bad Wing Rib to Spar Rivets |
In my RV-4 the rivets you show were pop rivets to hold main AND nose ribs to
the spar. They weren't put in until all other things were done.
Might be different on yours. Which one are you building?
Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
Charleston, Arkansas
"Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers"
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | BillRVSIX(at)aol.com |
Subject: | 8 deg panel and gyros Question. |
Hello Quick question on a panel that has a 8 deg tilt I know the artificial
horizon has to have the tilt built in but dose the DG and turn coordinator need
to be set up for the 8 deg tilt panel.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Corrosion inside a fuel tank cap |
>Just a couple of notes about fuel caps. The "plastic / fiber" spacer under
>the flipper has since been replaced by Van's with metal spacers. Both my
>platic ones failed pretty quickly, and I just made my own out of aluminum.
>Also, regarding the pins, a good drill bit shaft will last forever, those
>roll pins have a tendency to break. I carry a couple extras now just in
>case
Hi Stein,
Yep, I was considering using a 1/16" or a #52-#53 drill-bit shaft, and I
would have had I not found suitable roll-pins. But then I mused that it took
a lot of torque to break-off the roll-pins and what would break if the stud
seizure happened again? Would the latch lever lands break instead of the
drill-bit shaft? Who knows? that's why I used the roll-pins. (for now)
Cheers!!---Henry Hore
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: W&B on a -6A |
Greg,
Van supplies parts not aircraft, Doug is the manufacturer, as the
manufacturer he can sit his own W&B.
Van's W&B figures only say that he has tested the aircraft to those
limits and it did not break. This airplane is
very capable of carrying 1800lbs and many have a W&B limit of 1800 lbs
already. It is like you say your 6A manual
states a gross weight of 1650lbs. My RV-6 manual says a gross weight of
1600lbs. Whats the deal, they are the
same airplane. We all do flight testing on each aircraft built, that is
what the stage one flight test period is about.
Jerry
Greg Grigson wrote:
>
>Doug,
> What engineering design changes did you make to Van's standard RV 6A aircraft
to permit a gross weight of 1800 lbs? The RV 6A has been designed and tested
to certain load limitations by the kit manufacturer (my RV 6A manual states
maximum gross weight as 1650 lbs). Any alteration of these limitations would
require certain design changes and possibly flight testing. To forgo such a
process is not prudent in my opinion. I hope I have mistakenly misinterpreted
your posting, if so I apologize in advance.
>
>Safe Flying!
>Aloha
>Greg Grigson
>
>dmedema(at)att.net wrote:
>
>I recently weighed my plane both level and in the
>normal on-ground attitude. The results were very
>interesting to me so I thought I would share them.
>I originally weighed it in the normal on-ground
>attitude thinking I could convert it to level values
>using some trig. It turns out you need to know the
>exact height of the real center-of-gravity to do
>this calculation. I made an estimate based on the
>W&B drawings from Van's but didn't feel comfortable
>with it. I built some ramps to get it level and
>re-weighed it to get it right. Here are the results
>
>On-ground Level
>Nose tire: 236 272
>Right tire: 396 377
>Left tire: 394 378
>
>The total weight was only 1 pound different which I
>consider a good sign of repeatability for the scales.
>The empty weight c.g. for the on-ground numbers
>is 70.45 inches while for level, it is 68.51.
>I'm putting my airplane's gross at 1800 which will
>allow me to have two 225lb. people, full fuel, and
>over 90 pounds of baggage and still stay in proper
>c.g. range and gross weight. C.G. is still ok after
>all the fuel is used in this scenario.
>
>I was quite surprised that lifting the main gear
>approximately 4 inches transferred 36 more pounds
>onto the front gear. For reference, the plane is
>unpainted with minimal interior. It has an 0-320-E2D
>with standard starter, Van's 35 amp alternator, an
>Odyssey battery just in front of the firewall, and
>a fixed pitch Sensenich prop.
>
>Doug Medema
>RV-6A N276DM ready for inspection!
>
>
>---------------------------------
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
Subject: | Re: W&B on a -6A |
CG is more of an issue than weight with this airplane (unless you are
talking about pulling more g's) . My 6A weight and balance is listed as
1750 pounds gross. The weight and balance is claimed by the builder, not
the kit manufacturer. Van's has listed 1650 as what old blue was set at.
On the record van's will tell you that you *should* set your max gross at
1650. Off the record, they will tell you that 1800 is fine, just watch the
CG as you burn fuel. I've been loaded to 1700 wihout a problem. Just have
to watch the fuel burn. I landed with alot of fuel burned and it required
alot of power on landing to keep her level. As long as the pilot ensures
that all turns are shallow, no aerobatics, no abrupt maneuvers, etc, this
airplane will fly fine at 1800.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Soon
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Grigson" <iflyhawaii2(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: W&B on a -6A
>
> Doug,
> What engineering design changes did you make to Van's standard RV 6A
aircraft to permit a gross weight of 1800 lbs? The RV 6A has been designed
and tested to certain load limitations by the kit manufacturer (my RV 6A
manual states maximum gross weight as 1650 lbs). Any alteration of these
limitations would require certain design changes and possibly flight
testing. To forgo such a process is not prudent in my opinion. I hope I
have mistakenly misinterpreted your posting, if so I apologize in advance.
>
> Safe Flying!
> Aloha
> Greg Grigson
>
> dmedema(at)att.net wrote:
>
> I recently weighed my plane both level and in the
> normal on-ground attitude. The results were very
> interesting to me so I thought I would share them.
> I originally weighed it in the normal on-ground
> attitude thinking I could convert it to level values
> using some trig. It turns out you need to know the
> exact height of the real center-of-gravity to do
> this calculation. I made an estimate based on the
> W&B drawings from Van's but didn't feel comfortable
> with it. I built some ramps to get it level and
> re-weighed it to get it right. Here are the results
>
> On-ground Level
> Nose tire: 236 272
> Right tire: 396 377
> Left tire: 394 378
>
> The total weight was only 1 pound different which I
> consider a good sign of repeatability for the scales.
> The empty weight c.g. for the on-ground numbers
> is 70.45 inches while for level, it is 68.51.
> I'm putting my airplane's gross at 1800 which will
> allow me to have two 225lb. people, full fuel, and
> over 90 pounds of baggage and still stay in proper
> c.g. range and gross weight. C.G. is still ok after
> all the fuel is used in this scenario.
>
> I was quite surprised that lifting the main gear
> approximately 4 inches transferred 36 more pounds
> onto the front gear. For reference, the plane is
> unpainted with minimal interior. It has an 0-320-E2D
> with standard starter, Van's 35 amp alternator, an
> Odyssey battery just in front of the firewall, and
> a fixed pitch Sensenich prop.
>
> Doug Medema
> RV-6A N276DM ready for inspection!
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
rv-list
Subject: | Stick hat switches |
Hi
Does anybody know an alternate source for hat switches or cooly switches
like the one in the Ray Allen grips.
Alternate to RAC that is.....
looking for one for the back seater.
Gert
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
Subject: | Re: Bad wing rib to spar rivets |
Here's my 2 cents:
1) Stabilize the work as best you can. Clamp it down to the bench in
multiple places, block it with clamped/screwed down wood, etc.
2) Use a partner. This ought to be #1, actually, but I think stabilization
might cure your issues. But anyway, when smashing 1/8" AN470 rivets I
always like to have a partner so each person can use both hands and focus
their attention on their own side. I think it makes for better quality
riveting.
3) Maintain more force on the gun, keeping the set on that rivet until after
it stops hammering. I find that if you release pressure even an instant too
soon, you get smiles. So keep a good amount of force on it (thus all the
clamping!) until it's silent, then pull the gun away.
4) Use more pressure. 3 to 4 seconds is kind of a long time to shoot, but
your mileage may vary. My opinion is that it's almost easier and more
controllable to have a quicker, more intense burst, rather than a long,
drawn-out buuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuurst. So crank the PSI up to 80 or 90
and it should cut the time in half...but apply good force to that machine
head and keep the set dead centered and plumb. Use your 2nd hand's
fingertips to brace the set.
5) If all else fails, blame the bucker. 8-) Make sure the bucking bar is
good and square. If it's not, it has the ability to knock *you* off center.
At least that's what I've found and theorized. Also, use the heaviest
bucking bar you've got, if possible.
Hope this helps!
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Warren W Hurd" <warren(at)ahyup.com>
Subject: RV-List: Bad wing rib to spar rivets
>
> I have been happy with most of my rivets until now. During the riveting
> of the wing ribs to the main wing spar I badly deformed some of the
> factory rivet heads. See them at http://www.ahyup.com/Rivet/ To make the
> rivets I used a 2X gun at about 60 psi. It would take 3 to 4 seconds to
> make the shop head to my satisfaction. I was paying much to much
> attention to the shop head and ignoring the factory head.
> I also made some smileys in the ribs. What should I do to make this
> better?
>
> Warren Hurd
> 90454 Wings
> http://www.ahyup.com
> Mushroomed Rivets
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
Subject: | Re: Stick hat switches |
You might want to give michael(at)kalama.com an email or call
(360-274-6508...no web site that I've seen). He's the guy who makes Custom
Stick Grips (teak wood). I believe he sells switches individually as well
as gorgeous stick grips.
http://www.rvproject.com/20030605.html (some pics of the stick grips)
http://www.rvproject.com/20030611.html (some more pics here)
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gert" <gert(at)execpc.com>
Subject: RV-List: Stick hat switches
>
> Hi
>
> Does anybody know an alternate source for hat switches or cooly switches
> like the one in the Ray Allen grips.
>
> Alternate to RAC that is.....
>
> looking for one for the back seater.
>
>
> Gert
> --
> is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | Re: Corrosion inside a fuel tank cap |
Elsa & Henry wrote:
>
>
> >Just a couple of notes about fuel caps. The "plastic / fiber" spacer under
> >the flipper has since been replaced by Van's with metal spacers. Both my
> >platic ones failed pretty quickly, and I just made my own out of aluminum.
> >Also, regarding the pins, a good drill bit shaft will last forever, those
> >roll pins have a tendency to break. I carry a couple extras now just in
> >case
>
> Hi Stein,
> Yep, I was considering using a 1/16" or a #52-#53 drill-bit shaft, and I
> would have had I not found suitable roll-pins. But then I mused that it took
> a lot of torque to break-off the roll-pins and what would break if the stud
> seizure happened again? Would the latch lever lands break instead of the
> drill-bit shaft? Who knows? that's why I used the roll-pins. (for now)
>
Another alternative for pins is stainless welding rod. It is softer than
the drill rod, yet still holds up fine in regular service. I carry a 6"
length of the rod in the flight kit and have had one occasion to quickly
fabricate a new cap pin.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 517 hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Subject: | Bad wing rib to spar rivets |
Yikes. 80-90# is way high, IMO. I do better with lower pressure,
closer to 30#, even for 1/8" rivets. They are done in 1.5 or 2 secs
(Using an offset rivet set like you have pictured takes longer). I also
try to keep everything exactly perpendicular or parallel to each other,
nothing in between. That helps to get good shop heads and no smileys.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dan Checkoway [mailto:dan(at)rvproject.com]
> Sent: Sunday, September 28, 2003 12:13 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Bad wing rib to spar rivets
>
>
>
> Here's my 2 cents:
.... So crank the PSI up to 80 or
> 90 and it should cut the time in half...
>
> Hope this helps!
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Warren W Hurd" <warren(at)ahyup.com>
> To: ; "Matronics RV9 List"
>
> Subject: RV-List: Bad wing rib to spar rivets
>
>
> >
> > I have been happy with most of my rivets until now. During the
> > riveting of the wing ribs to the main wing spar I badly
> deformed some
> > of the factory rivet heads. See them at
> http://www.ahyup.com/Rivet/ To
> > make the rivets I used a 2X gun at about 60 psi. It would
> take 3 to 4
> > seconds to make the shop head to my satisfaction. I was
> paying much to
> > much attention to the shop head and ignoring the factory
> head. I also
> > made some smileys in the ribs. What should I do to make this better?
> >
> > Warren Hurd
> > 90454 Wings
> > http://www.ahyup.com
> > Mushroomed Rivets
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
Subject: | Re: Bad wing rib to spar rivets |
A couple more points.
To drill out the bad rivets, I stole a technique from someone else:
Drill off the factory head. Then, use a 3/32 drill to drill most of
the way through, but being carefull to not go all the way through the
rivet. Use a 3/32 punch in this hole to tap out the rivet. You
might need to use a pair of Vice-Grips to help get the rivet off the
punch after you've tapped it out. This should allow you to get the
rivet out without doing any damage to the holes.
As far as avoiding smilies on round head rivets, a local builder
keyed me into using a small piece of hockey shin guard tape on the
rivet set. It is a thick, soft, tough tape. It helps keep the rivet
set from slipping off the rivet and it also keeps the rivet set from
marking up the rivet. The factory rivets look absolutely pristine
after they are driven.
You might think about a 3X gun for 1/8 rivets, especially if that
area of structure is very stiff. The gun has to flex the structure
when you are driving the rivet, and I suspect areas of stiff
structure might be harder to do with a 2X gun than with a 3X.
A long straight rivet set would avoid the problems of that offset set
turning, if the straight set will work in this area. That offset set
gave me hard time too, and I also screwed up a few rivets when it
turned on me. Taping it to the gun helps, but it didn't completely
stop it from turning for me.
Kevin Horton
>
>Here's my 2 cents:
>
>1) Stabilize the work as best you can. Clamp it down to the bench in
>multiple places, block it with clamped/screwed down wood, etc.
>
>2) Use a partner. This ought to be #1, actually, but I think stabilization
>might cure your issues. But anyway, when smashing 1/8" AN470 rivets I
>always like to have a partner so each person can use both hands and focus
>their attention on their own side. I think it makes for better quality
>riveting.
>
>3) Maintain more force on the gun, keeping the set on that rivet until after
>it stops hammering. I find that if you release pressure even an instant too
>soon, you get smiles. So keep a good amount of force on it (thus all the
>clamping!) until it's silent, then pull the gun away.
>
>4) Use more pressure. 3 to 4 seconds is kind of a long time to shoot, but
>your mileage may vary. My opinion is that it's almost easier and more
>controllable to have a quicker, more intense burst, rather than a long,
>drawn-out buuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuurst. So crank the PSI up to 80 or 90
>and it should cut the time in half...but apply good force to that machine
>head and keep the set dead centered and plumb. Use your 2nd hand's
>fingertips to brace the set.
>
>5) If all else fails, blame the bucker. 8-) Make sure the bucking bar is
>good and square. If it's not, it has the ability to knock *you* off center.
>At least that's what I've found and theorized. Also, use the heaviest
>bucking bar you've got, if possible.
>
>Hope this helps!
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Warren W Hurd" <warren(at)ahyup.com>
>To: ; "Matronics RV9 List"
>Subject: RV-List: Bad wing rib to spar rivets
>
>
>>
>> I have been happy with most of my rivets until now. During the riveting
>> of the wing ribs to the main wing spar I badly deformed some of the
>> factory rivet heads. See them at http://www.ahyup.com/Rivet/ To make the
>> rivets I used a 2X gun at about 60 psi. It would take 3 to 4 seconds to
>> make the shop head to my satisfaction. I was paying much to much
>> attention to the shop head and ignoring the factory head.
>> I also made some smileys in the ribs. What should I do to make this
>> better?
>>
>> Warren Hurd
>> 90454 Wings
>> http://www.ahyup.com
>> Mushroomed Rivets
> >
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Engine Preheaters For Sale |
From: | Martin Sobel <rv8vator(at)earthlink.net> |
EAA Chapter 9 ,
Columbus Flight Watch ,
COSAnet
All:
I am moving soon to a new home where I will finally be able to start my
RV-8.
In the meantime, I have two brand new Red Dragon LT 2-12 MH200 propane
pre-heaters for sale.
New List for these items is $471.00. Will sell them for $250.00 each plus
shipping.
These pre-heaters may be seen at:
http://www.flameengineering.com/Preheater_12voltDC.html
Satisfaction guaranteed.
Martin Sobel
rv8vator(at)earthlink.net
740-548-5730
740-972-3243 (cell)
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | DAHON Folding Bicycles for Sale |
From: | Martin Sobel <rv8vator(at)earthlink.net> |
RV8 List , EAA Chapter 9 ,
Columbus Flight Watch ,
COSAnet
All:
In another life, I built bicycle assist engines under the trade name of
Terratran Manufacturing. These engines were fitted to DAHON Folding Bicycles
to make a neat 40 lb. motor scooter that would fit in most airplanes.
I have several of these folders in my basement and since I am moving soon, I
need to get rid of them.
Most are 20" wheel bikes with 7 speed internal hubs (no derailleurs) with a
disk brake that does not fade when wet.
These bikes will make an excellent Christmas gift(s) for any pilot.
I also have several 16" bikes including a rare stainless steel model.
If any one wants a new DAHON Folder including the newest full size aluminum
folders, I can make them available at very good prices.
Martin Sobel
rv8vator(at)earthlink.net
740-548-5730
740-972-3243 (cell)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Subject: | Bad wing rib to spar rivets |
Amendment:
I overlooked that you are using a 2X. The numbers I referenced below I
used for my 3X.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Larry Bowen [mailto:Larry(at)bowenaero.com]
> Sent: Sunday, September 28, 2003 1:22 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Bad wing rib to spar rivets
>
>
>
> Yikes. 80-90# is way high, IMO. I do better with lower pressure,
> closer to 30#, even for 1/8" rivets. They are done in 1.5 or
> 2 secs (Using an offset rivet set like you have pictured
> takes longer). I also try to keep everything exactly
> perpendicular or parallel to each other, nothing in between.
> That helps to get good shop heads and no smileys.
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Dan Checkoway [mailto:dan(at)rvproject.com]
> > Sent: Sunday, September 28, 2003 12:13 PM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Bad wing rib to spar rivets
> >
> >
> >
> > Here's my 2 cents:
> .... So crank the PSI up to 80 or
> > 90 and it should cut the time in half...
> >
> > Hope this helps!
> > )_( Dan
> > RV-7 N714D
> > http://www.rvproject.com
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Warren W Hurd" <warren(at)ahyup.com>
> > To: ; "Matronics RV9 List"
> >
> > Subject: RV-List: Bad wing rib to spar rivets
> >
> >
> > >
> > > I have been happy with most of my rivets until now. During the
> > > riveting of the wing ribs to the main wing spar I badly
> > deformed some
> > > of the factory rivet heads. See them at
> > http://www.ahyup.com/Rivet/ To
> > > make the rivets I used a 2X gun at about 60 psi. It would
> > take 3 to 4
> > > seconds to make the shop head to my satisfaction. I was
> > paying much to
> > > much attention to the shop head and ignoring the factory
> > head. I also
> > > made some smileys in the ribs. What should I do to make
> this better?
> > >
> > > Warren Hurd
> > > 90454 Wings
> > > http://www.ahyup.com
> > > Mushroomed Rivets
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Subject: | Lock tabs on carb |
Folks,
I responding to the comment about using lock tabs to fix the fasteners for
the FAB adaptor plate to the carb.
I believe one of our local guys recently had a portion of the lock tab get
disgested by a cylinder. (I walked into that conversation mid stream so I
may have misheard it)
In any event I drilled heads and safetied these fasteners with ss wire and
would recommend that as the only appropriate method for these bolts. I am
also not very big on Vans use of nutplates and centering tabs inside of the
air filter, and therefore consider these critical inspection items every 25
hours. Given the fact that the carb is moving and the end of the FAB is semi
fixed to the cowl, the nutplates and fasteners in there are subject to a lot
of activity. So far no signs of wear.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Subject: | Scuppers and Velcro |
RE RV-6 outlet,
I have left mine long appx 1.25", then cut it even, then made it even but
with an 11 deg flare outwards all the way around, then cut it 1" short at an
angle, then tried an outlet airflow alignment baffle, then tried several
simple inlet aligment baffles, and nothing changed in any of the attempts to
either CHT or OT. But I had fun. ;{)
My temps aren't terrible given that I live in the south west, but it would
be nice to see them a few degrees lower. OT is normally 200, and CHT is
390-420 when playing around in a 85-95 deg day. But if I climb or slow
flight for awhile they both start looking for red.
My current experiment is to see what the temp difference is between the
spark plug probe and the in head probe, then I am going to change the oil
cooler inlet to a more tapered design rather than Vans folded box design. I
believe it was Beech Aircraft who one time fixed an oil temp problem by
moving the probe to a cooler location. Its kinda like these posts, if you
don't like what you're reading than read something else. ;{)
I guess Vans overall cooling design is to get just enough cooling so that
drag is minimized. To bad he lives in the cool climes of Oregon.
RE velcro, it also helps to not have any corners on stickum stuff. Cut them
round so the sharp corners don't curl up.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
Subject: | Corrosion inside a fuel tank cap |
Regarding the corrosion inside the fuel caps, this is apparently common.
I took mine apart and cleaned them up. Prior to re-assembling them, I
gobbered them up with EZ Turn (formerly called Fuel Lube). This stuff
is really handy for many things, I even keep a little 35mm film canister
in the plane with a little glob of it inside. Also good for holding
washers/nuts etc. to one's finger for tough to assemble areas.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 375 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Subject: | Re: DAHON Folding Bicycles for Sale |
Prices and shipping costs, Please
Cy Galley - Bellanca Champion Club
Newsletter Editor & EAA TC
www.bellanca-championclub.com
Actively supporting Aeroncas every day
Quarterly newsletters on time
Reasonable document reprints
----- Original Message -----
From: "Martin Sobel" <rv8vator(at)earthlink.net>
List" ; "EAA Chapter 9" ;
"Columbus Flight Watch" ; "COSAnet"
Subject: RV-List: DAHON Folding Bicycles for Sale
>
> All:
>
> In another life, I built bicycle assist engines under the trade name of
> Terratran Manufacturing. These engines were fitted to DAHON Folding
Bicycles
> to make a neat 40 lb. motor scooter that would fit in most airplanes.
>
> I have several of these folders in my basement and since I am moving soon,
I
> need to get rid of them.
>
> Most are 20" wheel bikes with 7 speed internal hubs (no derailleurs) with
a
> disk brake that does not fade when wet.
>
> These bikes will make an excellent Christmas gift(s) for any pilot.
>
> I also have several 16" bikes including a rare stainless steel model.
>
> If any one wants a new DAHON Folder including the newest full size
aluminum
> folders, I can make them available at very good prices.
>
> Martin Sobel
> rv8vator(at)earthlink.net
> 740-548-5730
> 740-972-3243 (cell)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Bad wing rib to spar rivets |
Ah once again a very good thread. It's interesting to hear what techniques
work for different folks.
First off for reference I use a 2x Sioux generally 40 - 60 pounds depending
what I'm doing (with a 25' hose).
I prefer the offset shank to the straight one. I don't get smilies on the
large rivets with the offset but for some reason with the straight shank I
do. I was surprised to run in to other folks that had the same experience
including one of our local guru's and DAR. Of course this is Texas so our
shanks tend to be bigger.... (I'm ducking).
Also I use a pin vice when drilling out bad rivets. This can be picked up
at most hobby shops and is basically a small shank like tool used to hold a
drill bit. I use a real small bit, center it and turn it by hand. Then I
go to a larger bit. This allows me to get the starter holes in the center
of what I perceive the is the shaft of the rivet. After that a few pops
with my Sioux drill and it's out.
Bob Hassel
RV9A on hold / RV10 soon!
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Bad wing rib to spar rivets |
>A long straight rivet set would avoid the problems of that offset set
>turning, if the straight set will work in this area. That offset set
>gave me hard time too, and I also screwed up a few rivets when it
>turned on me. Taping it to the gun helps, but it didn't completely
>stop it from turning for me.
I have just submitted a couple of photos to the Matronics Photo Share of my
double off-set rivet set holder that secures the set firmly in the gun so
that it does NOT rotate.
One of these days I will submit Photos of a variety of tools which I
home-made in 1995 when I was waiting for my kits to be delivered:
C-Frame
Pneumatic cleco installer / remover
Edge roller
Cut-off wheel holder
Squeezer anvils for crimping #4 & #8
terminals
Plus others I can't think of at the moment
Cheers!! Henry Hore
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
Subject: | Gear Leg Stiffeners |
Well today I installed the wood gear leg stiffeners. I know, from reading
the archives, that many builders are happy/surprised that not putting in the
wood stiffeners has not resulted in shimmies and was not needed.
I thought through the process of doing it and not. I thought that not doing
it and having a shimmy would not be good for my co-pilot 's (wife) peace of
mind. So,,, I went to the local aviation dept of Lowes and bought a 10'
length of molding. Cost $7.69. I used my Mother-in-Laws radial arm saw and
cut the molding per plans and glued it together with some Sears wood glue.
Next day I hued and sanded it down and mixed up some epoxy with flux to get
a consistency of runny peanut butter. I poured the mixture slowly into the
grooved angle of the two wood anti-shimmy legs and taped it tightly on the
aft side of the gear leg (after cleaning with a piece of scotch brite).
Watched it ever hour or so for any leakage. Let it cure overnight. Next
day I fitted the completed gear leg fairing and aligned according to plans
with the legs off the ground. I had to sand the wood stiffener just a bit
to get the fairing to fit without a conflict with the stiffener. Then I
removed the faring and wrapped the wood stiffener with 3" fiberglass tape to
get three overlapping layers and epoxied each layer well and covered with
peal ply tape and the next day it was ready. Final sanded it just a bit to
get rid of a couple of rough edges. The fairing fits over it like a glove.
Is the wood stiffener needed? I will never know. But if I hadn't taken
this step and had a shimmy problem after completing the plane, I am sure it
would be way more than 6 hours or effort and discomfort for me. AND did I
mention: My co-pilot's/passenger's peace of mind will not be challenged.
Weight? I'd say the whole thing is probably 6 oz or less, $7.69, and about
6 hours. I will sleep tonight knowing it is under that leg fairing, out of
sight. I know -- and for me -- that is important.
My suggestion to you? Answering that is too easy -- You decide for
yourself. ( But I say: what is 6 hours and 6 oz. considering the whole
project? )
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
On Finish Kit and fire wall forward
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Fwd: FW: Message *Not* Posted to RV-List... |
List:
Posting for a fellow RV-8A owner. Please contact Wayne direct.
> Complete Vacuum System: Sigma Tek TSOd DG and AI 8 tilt; Rapco pump with
> full install kit, gauge and shroud; flown 90hrs, changing to EFIS; $1200.
> rwayne(at)adelphia.net, 434-797-3919.
>
From: "Wayne Williams" <rwayne(at)gamewood.net>
Subject: FW: Message *Not* Posted to RV-List...
Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2003 21:40:10 -0400
I thought you had to be a member to post. Could you do it? Or, tell me how
to join? Thanks.
(The message is at the very bottom of all this stuff.)
Wayne
-----Original Message-----
From: Matronics Email Bounce Service [mailto:bounces(at)matronics.com]
Subject: Message *Not* Posted to RV-List...
--
-- "Poster: "Wayne Williams" "
-- "Subject: vacuum system for sale"
--
-- The message below was not posted to the RV-List because the
-- poster is not a member of any Email List on the Matronics Email System.
--
-- Note that this check can be triggered in some cases where your
-- your message's From: address isn't an *exact* match to the email
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-- Matt Dralle
-- Matronics Email List Administrator
-- dralle(at)matronics.com
--
--
>-------------------
>
>
> From rwayne(at)gamewood.net Sat Sep 27 14:02:41 2003
> Received: from barracuda.matronics.com (barracuda.matronics.com
[66.92.24.21])
> by matronics.com (8.11.6/8.11.0/Rbl-Orbs-Dul) with ESMTP id h8RL2fH20482
> Received: from mta1.adelphia.net (mta1.adelphia.net [68.168.78.175])
> by barracuda.matronics.com (Barracuda Spam Firewall) with ESMTP id
130BC200008B
> Received: from williams ([67.21.150.2]) by mta1.adelphia.net
> (InterMail vM.5.01.05.32 201-253-122-126-132-20030307) with SMTP
> From: "Wayne Williams" <rwayne(at)gamewood.net>
> To:
> Subject: vacuum system for sale
> Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2003 17:03:02 -0400
> Message-ID:
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> X-MSMail-Priority: Normal
> X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook IMO, Build 9.0.6604 (9.0.2911.0)
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> X-MIMEOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2800.1165
> X-Virus-Scanned: by Barracuda Networks Anti-Spam/Anti-virus Gateway at
matronics.com
>
> Something important for RV builders:
>
> Complete Vacuum System: Sigma Tek TSOd DG and AI 8 tilt; Rapco pump with
> full install kit, gauge and shroud; flown 90hrs, changing to EFIS; $1200.
rwayne(at)adelphia.net, 434-797-3919.
>
>
>-------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Vacumn Pump for Sale |
> Complete Vacuum System: Sigma Tek TSOd DG and AI 8 tilt; Rapco pump with
> full install kit, gauge and shroud; flown 90hrs, changing to EFIS; $1200.
> rwayne(at)adelphia.net, 434-797-3919.
>
From: "Wayne Williams" <rwayne(at)gamewood.net>
Subject: FW: Message *Not* Posted to RV-List...
Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2003 21:40:10 -0400
I thought you had to be a member to post. Could you do it? Or, tell me how
to join? Thanks.
(The message is at the very bottom of all this stuff.)
Wayne
-----Original Message-----
From: Matronics Email Bounce Service [mailto:bounces(at)matronics.com]
Subject: Message *Not* Posted to RV-List...
--
-- "Poster: "Wayne Williams" "
-- "Subject: vacuum system for sale"
--
-- The message below was not posted to the RV-List because the
-- poster is not a member of any Email List on the Matronics Email System.
--
-- Note that this check can be triggered in some cases where your
-- your message's From: address isn't an *exact* match to the email
-- address that is subscribed. An example of this might be where
-- you are subscribed to a List as:
--
-- "joe(at)internet.com"
--
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-- "joe(at)email.internet.com"
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-- While these may be functionally the same email address, there is
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--
-- Matt Dralle
-- Matronics Email List Administrator
-- dralle(at)matronics.com
--
--
>-------------------
>
>
> From rwayne(at)gamewood.net Sat Sep 27 14:02:41 2003
> Received: from barracuda.matronics.com (barracuda.matronics.com
[66.92.24.21])
> by matronics.com (8.11.6/8.11.0/Rbl-Orbs-Dul) with ESMTP id h8RL2fH20482
> Received: from mta1.adelphia.net (mta1.adelphia.net [68.168.78.175])
> by barracuda.matronics.com (Barracuda Spam Firewall) with ESMTP id
130BC200008B
> Received: from williams ([67.21.150.2]) by mta1.adelphia.net
> (InterMail vM.5.01.05.32 201-253-122-126-132-20030307) with SMTP
> From: "Wayne Williams" <rwayne(at)gamewood.net>
> To:
> Subject: vacuum system for sale
> Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2003 17:03:02 -0400
> Message-ID:
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> X-MSMail-Priority: Normal
> X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook IMO, Build 9.0.6604 (9.0.2911.0)
> Importance: Normal
> X-MIMEOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2800.1165
> X-Virus-Scanned: by Barracuda Networks Anti-Spam/Anti-virus Gateway at
matronics.com
>
> Something important for RV builders:
>
> Complete Vacuum System: Sigma Tek TSOd DG and AI 8 tilt; Rapco pump with
> full install kit, gauge and shroud; flown 90hrs, changing to EFIS; $1200.
rwayne(at)adelphia.net, 434-797-3919.
>
>
>-------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Rv list Hartzell Prop |
From: | smoothweasel(at)juno.com |
Does anyone out there know what the combination of
stud,washer,nut and locking arrangement is used when mounting a Hartzell
to a O-320 B3B? Also I have one aluminum 12 in. spinner and a 12 in.
fiberglass spinner that I would like to sell/trade for a 13 in.
Joel "Weasel" Graber
RV-4 Finishing
Brooksville Ms
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Putting an Epoxy Primer over Van's Wash Primer used on QB kits |
I have a RV8A QB Kit and plan to spray the Cockpit
Area with Sterling U1201G (2 part epoxy primer, green
in color - which I have used before). This Primer
(MIL-P_ 223377G) is tough as nails. It is perfect for
a "high wear area", such as a cockpit, and then plan
to spray over it with grey Tempo Epoxy Propeller Paint
for the finish grey color coat. Propeller paint is
tough too. I have some test samples of this sitting
on my roof aging in the weather, since April 03.
How have you Builders prepared the Wash Primer, that
Van's uses on their QB Kits, prior to putting a Primer
or Paint over it?
1) Clean off with Denatured Alcohol, then paint?
2) Lightly scuff using Red Scotchbrite Pads, then
clean with Denatured Alcohol, then paint ?
What worked for you and how did your process "wear
with time" ?
FYI according to MIL Specs on Wash Primers, they do
NOT provide corrosion protection unless top coated
with a "real" primer or paint.
Thanks, Garey Santa Monica, CA
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | [ Henry Hore ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Henry Hore <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Subject: Rivet-gun double off-set holder for one hand operation.
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com.09.28.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: Gear Leg Stiffeners |
Hi Larry,
Not certain which Model RV you have, but will tell you a tale about the
stiffeners that has nothing to do with shimmy. I once had to make a panic
stop after aborting a take off (was around 10-20' in the air and around
80mph taking off from a 2300 ft runway).
I had many times rehershed in my mind what I would do should I ever face
the need to abort at various stages in the take off. My guideline was and
is I would rather go off the end of the runway doing 30 MPH than find myself
airborn with less viable options. I know others may disagree and that
fine. Anyhow, within a second of the problem occuring, I was committed to
putting the bird back on the ground, but that I knew I needed ever inch of
remaining runway to get stopped - if that were even possible. So I dove for
the runway and planted my bird on that runway hard, firmly pushing the
stick forward as I touched down to keep it there (fortunately did not
bounce). I slammed down 300 ft (measured) from the end of the runway (Boy!
was the end of that runway coming up like an express train). Immediately
got on the binders - HARD!. Fortunately had a nose wheel and the stiffeners
on the main gear. Stopped 12 ft off the end of the runway in the mowed
grass with no damage to aircraft or self (well, seat cushion, underwear,
heart rate, nerves,etc were a bit perturbed).
After getting my legs steady enough to get out. I went back and looked at
my touch down point and followed the twin trails of black rubber from that
point to the end of the runway. There were no skips or hops or skid marks
(wheels locked) just two solid lines of that soft rubber compound that ate
into that tramac and slowed me from (must have been close to 75-80MPH on
touchdown) to zero in 312 ft. I am absolutely convinced that if I had not
had the wood stiffeners on my gear that the force of the panic braking would
have sprung those steel rods backwards, until their spring action would have
popped the wheels forward, then back, then forward, etc. I am certain I
would have survived the abort but the aircraft would have probably ended up
in the gully at that end of the runway and a series of skipping wheel marks.
So, the stiffeners may not be needed 99.99999.... % of the time, but just
once is enough.
FWIW
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net>
Subject: RV-List: Gear Leg Stiffeners
>
> Well today I installed the wood gear leg stiffeners. I know, from reading
> the archives, that many builders are happy/surprised that not putting in
the
> wood stiffeners has not resulted in shimmies and was not needed.
>
> I thought through the process of doing it and not. I thought that not
doing
> it and having a shimmy would not be good for my co-pilot 's (wife) peace
of
> mind. So,,, I went to the local aviation dept of Lowes and bought a 10'
> length of molding. Cost $7.69. I used my Mother-in-Laws radial arm saw
and
> cut the molding per plans and glued it together with some Sears wood glue.
> Next day I hued and sanded it down and mixed up some epoxy with flux to
get
> a consistency of runny peanut butter. I poured the mixture slowly into
the
> grooved angle of the two wood anti-shimmy legs and taped it tightly on the
> aft side of the gear leg (after cleaning with a piece of scotch brite).
> Watched it ever hour or so for any leakage. Let it cure overnight. Next
> day I fitted the completed gear leg fairing and aligned according to plans
> with the legs off the ground. I had to sand the wood stiffener just a bit
> to get the fairing to fit without a conflict with the stiffener. Then I
> removed the faring and wrapped the wood stiffener with 3" fiberglass tape
to
> get three overlapping layers and epoxied each layer well and covered with
> peal ply tape and the next day it was ready. Final sanded it just a bit
to
> get rid of a couple of rough edges. The fairing fits over it like a
glove.
>
> Is the wood stiffener needed? I will never know. But if I hadn't taken
> this step and had a shimmy problem after completing the plane, I am sure
it
> would be way more than 6 hours or effort and discomfort for me. AND did I
> mention: My co-pilot's/passenger's peace of mind will not be challenged.
>
> Weight? I'd say the whole thing is probably 6 oz or less, $7.69, and
about
> 6 hours. I will sleep tonight knowing it is under that leg fairing, out
of
> sight. I know -- and for me -- that is important.
>
> My suggestion to you? Answering that is too easy -- You decide for
> yourself. ( But I say: what is 6 hours and 6 oz. considering the whole
> project? )
>
> Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
> On Finish Kit and fire wall forward
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "aronsond" <aronsond(at)pacbell.net> |
Subject: | Re: DAHON Folding Bicycles for Sale |
Martin:
Where can I go to see what they look like?
DCa
----- Original Message -----
From: "Martin Sobel" <rv8vator(at)earthlink.net>
List" ; "EAA Chapter 9" ;
"Columbus Flight Watch" ; "COSAnet"
Subject: RV-List: DAHON Folding Bicycles for Sale
>
> All:
>
> In another life, I built bicycle assist engines under the trade name of
> Terratran Manufacturing. These engines were fitted to DAHON Folding
Bicycles
> to make a neat 40 lb. motor scooter that would fit in most airplanes.
>
> I have several of these folders in my basement and since I am moving soon,
I
> need to get rid of them.
>
> Most are 20" wheel bikes with 7 speed internal hubs (no derailleurs) with
a
> disk brake that does not fade when wet.
>
> These bikes will make an excellent Christmas gift(s) for any pilot.
>
> I also have several 16" bikes including a rare stainless steel model.
>
> If any one wants a new DAHON Folder including the newest full size
aluminum
> folders, I can make them available at very good prices.
>
> Martin Sobel
> rv8vator(at)earthlink.net
> 740-548-5730
> 740-972-3243 (cell)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Greg Grigson <iflyhawaii2(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: W&B on a -6A |
I guess I missed early postings on builders establishing individual limitations.
Too busy sniffing lacquer thinner or bucking rivets without ear muffs.
Somehow I presumed experimental aircraft builders/manufacturers had to design
AND test the plane to establish limits. I guess that's one freedom of the experimental
world. Also we are only talking about adding 10% to Van's "recommended"
gross weight.
Are builders documenting the aforementioned considerations and procedures in
thier flight manual for these type loadings for those who might pilot the aircraft?
Or am I showing my big airplane/conservative slant again?
Thanks for all the informative responses. All the info from the list has definitely
leveraged my building progress, one of these days I will be flying...
(at my gross weight!)
Aloha.
Greg
Paul Besing wrote:
CG is more of an issue than weight with this airplane (unless you are
talking about pulling more g's) . My 6A weight and balance is listed as
1750 pounds gross. The weight and balance is claimed by the builder, not
the kit manufacturer. Van's has listed 1650 as what old blue was set at.
On the record van's will tell you that you *should* set your max gross at
1650. Off the record, they will tell you that 1800 is fine, just watch the
CG as you burn fuel. I've been loaded to 1700 wihout a problem. Just have
to watch the fuel burn. I landed with alot of fuel burned and it required
alot of power on landing to keep her level. As long as the pilot ensures
that all turns are shallow, no aerobatics, no abrupt maneuvers, etc, this
airplane will fly fine at 1800.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Soon
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Grigson"
Subject: Re: RV-List: W&B on a -6A
>
> Doug,
> What engineering design changes did you make to Van's standard RV 6A
aircraft to permit a gross weight of 1800 lbs? The RV 6A has been designed
and tested to certain load limitations by the kit manufacturer (my RV 6A
manual states maximum gross weight as 1650 lbs). Any alteration of these
limitations would require certain design changes and possibly flight
testing. To forgo such a process is not prudent in my opinion. I hope I
have mistakenly misinterpreted your posting, if so I apologize in advance.
>
> Safe Flying!
> Aloha
> Greg Grigson
>
> dmedema(at)att.net wrote:
>
> I recently weighed my plane both level and in the
> normal on-ground attitude. The results were very
> interesting to me so I thought I would share them.
> I originally weighed it in the normal on-ground
> attitude thinking I could convert it to level values
> using some trig. It turns out you need to know the
> exact height of the real center-of-gravity to do
> this calculation. I made an estimate based on the
> W&B drawings from Van's but didn't feel comfortable
> with it. I built some ramps to get it level and
> re-weighed it to get it right. Here are the results
>
> On-ground Level
> Nose tire: 236 272
> Right tire: 396 377
> Left tire: 394 378
>
> The total weight was only 1 pound different which I
> consider a good sign of repeatability for the scales.
> The empty weight c.g. for the on-ground numbers
> is 70.45 inches while for level, it is 68.51.
> I'm putting my airplane's gross at 1800 which will
> allow me to have two 225lb. people, full fuel, and
> over 90 pounds of baggage and still stay in proper
> c.g. range and gross weight. C.G. is still ok after
> all the fuel is used in this scenario.
>
> I was quite surprised that lifting the main gear
> approximately 4 inches transferred 36 more pounds
> onto the front gear. For reference, the plane is
> unpainted with minimal interior. It has an 0-320-E2D
> with standard starter, Van's 35 amp alternator, an
> Odyssey battery just in front of the firewall, and
> a fixed pitch Sensenich prop.
>
> Doug Medema
> RV-6A N276DM ready for inspection!
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | velcro peeling off |
From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
SNIP I tried gluing a half strip of velcro to the metal seat back and seat base,
with the other half sewn into the fabric cusion. Problem is, I've yet to
find a glue that's stronger then the velcro. Any time I need to remove the
cusion, the glued velcro strip comes along with it.
I suppose I could rivet the velcro strip to the seat back. Any other ideas?
Andy SNIP
Yes, there is a better way. Put a narrow strip on the seat cushion, say 1" wide,
sewn on of course. Then put a wider width, say 2" or wider if you can find
it, on the seat back. The wider strip will resist pulling loose much better.
If you can't do that, simply put the strip on the seat back PERPENDICULAR to the
strip on the cushion.
And don't use cheap velcro! You can get heavy duty stuff in various widths at
Walmart in the fabric dep't.
Not just a hat rack.... Vince
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tom Gesele" <tgesele(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Painting problems |
Listers,
I've run into a little problem while painting my canopy frame. The paint
ended up real soft, to the point where anything that rubs up against it
takes the paint off down to the bare metal. I used Imron over veri-prime and
let the paint set up a full week before I even touched it.
Does anyone out there have any ideas on what may have caused this and/or
can suggest a possible fix (other than stripping the whole thing down and
starting over again)
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Tom Gesele (RV-6 finishi kit)
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Painting problems |
How old was the hardner (You did use hardner, right)? Some have a 2 week
shelf life after first opening.
>
>Listers,
>
> I've run into a little problem while painting my canopy frame. The paint
>ended up real soft, to the point where anything that rubs up against it
>takes the paint off down to the bare metal. I used Imron over veri-prime and
>let the paint set up a full week before I even touched it.
>
> Does anyone out there have any ideas on what may have caused this and/or
>can suggest a possible fix (other than stripping the whole thing down and
>starting over again)
>
> Thanks in advance for any advice.
>
>Tom Gesele (RV-6 finishi kit)
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV frame of mind |
I'm in the market for another project: tossing b/w Co-Z and RV You guys have
any words of wisdom? Geoff Bowman, North Carolina
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tracy Crook" <lors01(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Painting problems |
> >
> >Listers,
> >
> > I've run into a little problem while painting my canopy frame. The
paint
> >ended up real soft, to the point where anything that rubs up against it
> >takes the paint off down to the bare metal. I used Imron over veri-prime
and
> >let the paint set up a full week before I even touched it.
> >
> > Does anyone out there have any ideas on what may have caused this
and/or
> >can suggest a possible fix (other than stripping the whole thing down and
> >starting over again)
> >
> > Thanks in advance for any advice.
> >
> >Tom Gesele (RV-6 finishi kit)
Ed Anderson had a painter who forgot the hardner (on the *whole plane*). It
took a couple of months but the paint did finally cure. Time cures all
ills?
Tracy Crook
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
Subject: | Re: Painting problems |
Tom,
It sounds like you didn't use enough hardener in the Imron. It's a 2
part paint and MUST have the correct amount of catalyst.
Dave
Tom Gesele wrote:
>
>Listers,
>
> I've run into a little problem while painting my canopy frame. The paint
>ended up real soft, to the point where anything that rubs up against it
>takes the paint off down to the bare metal. I used Imron over veri-prime and
>let the paint set up a full week before I even touched it.
>
> Does anyone out there have any ideas on what may have caused this and/or
>can suggest a possible fix (other than stripping the whole thing down and
>starting over again)
>
> Thanks in advance for any advice.
>
>Tom Gesele (RV-6 finishi kit)
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: New RV Flying |
Jim,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "Jim.Truitt(at)usdoj.gov" <Jim.Truitt(at)usdoj.gov>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "rv-list(at)matronics.com" (Receipt Notification
>Requested)
>Subject: RV-List: New RV Flying
>Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 17:07:18 -0400 (EDT)
>
>
>
>Just wanted to let everyone know - kit # 81610, an RV-8A (N627TT), is
>now flying. 180 hp. Aero Sport Power, carb, Sensenich fixed pitch 85",
>full interior, day/night VFR, 1107 lbs.
>A lot of thanks to John Crabtree, Vince Frazier, and Steve Steckler for all
>their help, and especially John's "engineering s*** ".
>Special thanks to my most patient and loveable wife, Terri, who, by the
>way, designed the paint scheme and the interior, and installed the
>interior.
>Flys GREAT! Only 8 hours so far - can't wait to get some more stick
>time!
>
>
http://msnmessenger-download.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | P M Condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
Subject: | Painting Web site, forums, educational data and professional |
supplies
Long post
www.autobodystore.com
A great site to learn (or relearn) painting basics and purchase
professional supplies. I purchased my Devilbiss Plus Gravity gun from
them at 150$ off list. The paint gun was selected based on conversations
with Len Stewart, owner/operator of the online shop. Len will answer
questions and generally help you with your paint needs. I found the
counter folks at the jobber stores less then helpfull, lacking in
product familarity and generally lacking in the painting knowledge in
general. I only buy the paint from them now and rely on the data I got
from the forums.
Here is the section on "Painting Basics" from Len's web site......
Being HVLP and low VOC products are the way the industrys going I will
be referring to them in this discussion on painting and paint guns. Most
all basic issues dealing with HVLP can be applied to conventional guns,
atomization is atomization. The HVLP just arrives at it differently.
The object of the spray gun is to break up the primer/sealer/paint/clear
(I will call this PSPC from here out) into small particles and lay
them in neat little rows on the panel being PSPRed. So the whole outcome
rests on how well the gun is doing this. Picture the droplets of PSPC
coming out of the fluid tip of the gun and then the air slapping them
into smaller droplets.
You have two things that help you with this process, air and solvent.
Solvent can mean something that is already in the PSPR from the
manufacture or something the manufacture has told you to add to it. By
the way, you should always mix in proper ratios as instructed in the
tech sheet. The thinner (less viscosity) you get the PSPR or the more
air you have at the fluid tip of the gun the more it will break up the
PSPR. The target for you is getting the perfect balance needed. Too much
solvent and the PSPR will have no body, fill, durability, etc. Too much
air and you blow the PSPR everywhere but the car, poor adhesion,
excessive texture, etc.
So, the answer is proper air supply and gun (and fluid tip) choice and
how you adjust it.
With todays high solids-low VOC (Volatile Organic Compound, you know
the bad stuff that goes up into the air we breathe) products there is
less solvent. And with HVLP guns there is less air at the cap to break
up the PSPC, proper air supply and gun setup is more important than
ever.
FIRST THINGS FIRST, your compressor and air supply.
An HVLP gun requires more VOLUME of air to operate (the V in HVLP, High
Volume Low Pressure). Now you may notice that your HVLP gun is adjusted
at maybe the same PSI as an old conventional gun, around 50 lbs at the
gun (many HVLP guns are set at much lower though) so where is the Low
in PSI they are talking about? It is at the actual air cap where the air
and paint come out. An HVLP gun has only 10 lbs at the cap while a
conventional has upwards of 50! So the VOLUME of air (CFM, Cubic Feet
per Minute) is the key to proper atomization with an HVLP.
If you have a gun that requires 15 CFM you will need a compressor and
plumbing that will produce that at a very minimum. There are HVLP guns
that need as little as 7.5 CFM so you can get good results even from a
smaller compressor. Air supply is a complete subject by its self so
lets assume that you have the air supply needed and move on to gun set
up.
So atomization is the key, but why? Why cant you just lay it out wet
and let it flow, as an old painter will say. Picture a jar full of
bbs, they will represent well small, atomized droplets of PSPC. The
gaps in between the bbs is solvent. Now picture a jar filled with
marbles, they will represent large, poorly atomized droplets of PSPC.
The gaps in between are, you guessed it, solvent.
If you apply your PSPC in large poorly atomized droplets, what you will
have is a film full of solvent. This can and will cause slow curing,
shrinkage and dieback (the loss of gloss in the hours and days after
application).
So, now that we have learned the need for gun set up, how do we do it?
Lets start with the fluid tip choice. The newer high solids low VOC PSPC
products need to be broken up more, so a smaller fluid tip is needed.
Basically you want the smallest fluid tip that will still allow you to
PSPC the particular part you are PSPCing keeping the entire thing wet
and in a fair amount of time. In other words a 1.0 tip would be
beautiful for clearing one fender, but would be lousy to paint a
complete. The application would be way to slow and the first panel would
be way to flashed by the time you got around back to it. So you need to
compromise, a 1.3 is a great all around tip, while a 1.5 though getting
a little big, can get you by. If you read the tech sheet on the
particular product you are shooting, it will have a recommendation for
fluid tip size.
There are needs for other tips, for instance when shooting polyester
primer you may need as big as a 2.3, but for urethanes and epoxies, the
1.3 or 1.4 will work great. If you plan on using a pressure pot or paint
a bus, all bets are off and we would need to study a little bit more.
As an example of the use of a 1.3 tip I did a test once that proved the
point well. I shot two panels of metal with a med solids urethane
primer. One was shot with a 1.3 super high atomizing top of the line
topcoat gun. The other was shot with a 1.5 (or a 1.7 I cant remember)
hoser primer gun. Three coats were applied and after a full cure (the
one shot with the larger gun took MUCH longer to flash and cure by the
way) the film thickness was measured. The one shot with the 1.3 tip was
2 tenths of a MIL thicker! The larger gun laid out the marble sized
droplets full of solvent and when the solvent flashed the film shrank.
Air supply is a subject that could fill many pages by its self. So we
are going to assume you have that covered and move on to gun set up.
You need to tune your gun EVERY TIME you use it just as you would tune
a guitar before you perform. This is done with a very basic spray out
pattern test. This very basic test tells you how your gun is atomizing
and you adjust it to achieve the best atomization you can.
Lets do a spray pattern test:
Set the fan width as need (you dont want to change it after you have
tuned the gun). Turn out the material knob about 2 turns. This is
the mixture adjustment, kind of like the idle screw on a carburetor.
The farther in it is screwed the lower the fluid to air ratio is and the
smaller the droplets will be. The farther out it is, the higher the
fluid to air ratio is and the larger the droplets.
Set the air pressure at the inlet to the gun to the manufactures specs.
On an HVLP gun this spec is usually found on the gun and is the maximum
PSI it can have while still maintaining the maximum 10 lb at the cap for
legal HVLP transfer efficiency (68 %). You are now ready to do a test
spray out.
Tape a piece of masking paper on the wall for the test. Hold the gun at
a right angle to the wall, just as if you were going the wall. Hold the
gun at a spread out hands distance (about 8 or 22cm). Pull the trigger
to completely open for a split second and then close it. You want an
ON-OFF wide open-completely closed in ONE movement. You should have a
cigar shaped pattern with complete coverage in the center with fading
coverage going away from the full coverage cigar shape in the center.
The center should be fully covered without any runs. If you have runs,
either you are holding the trigger too long, you are too close or the
gun is simply applying too much material. In which case you need to
screw in the material knob or turn the air pressure down. But most
likely if you have turned the material knob out the 2 turns and the
air is set at the factory specs, you are just too close or holding the
trigger open too long.
The droplets you see trailing off the center are what you will use to
tune your gun.
Turn in the material knob to make the droplets smaller (and or raise the
air pressure). The balance you need to attain is the smallest droplet
size possible before you loose the coverage desired. In other words if
you turn in the material knob too far, not enough material will be
coming out to cover the panel!
Now, youll notice that I said, raise the pressure to the gun, while
earlier I said to set it to manufactures specs. We are talking a very
small adjustment. It is a fine balance in material to air ratio and a
little more air than specified is okay. Even if it is an HVLP gun the
inlet pressure recommended is to maintain the 10 lb limit at the cap.
Well, about three quarters of the country has no regulations for HVLP
use so if you go over the 10 lbs all it will do is atomize the material
a little better. You may loose a little of the benefits of HVLP though.
But remember you have a lot of control with the material adjustment
knob.
After you are happy with the droplet size, DONT TOUCH THE FAN CONTROL.
It will change the PSI at the cap and will change the atomization you
worked hard to get.
Do this spray out every time you spray as material change, temp, and
humidity will necessitate a spray out droplet pattern test. Good luck!
Check out this URL to see an example of a sprayout pattern.
http://members.aol.com/icantunderstand/hvlpdropletpatterns.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "GEORGE INMAN" <ghinman(at)attcanada.ca> |
Subject: | Bad wing rib to spar rivets |
I have been happy with most of my rivets until now. During the riveting
of the wing ribs to the main wing spar I badly deformed some of the
factory rivet heads. See them at http://www.ahyup.com/Rivet/ To make the
rivets I used a 2X gun at about 60 psi. It would take 3 to 4 seconds to
make the shop head to my satisfaction. I was paying much to much
attention to the shop head and ignoring the factory head.
I also made some smileys in the ribs. What should I do to make this
better?
Warren Hurd
MIL-R-47196A(MI) ( MILITARY SPECIFICATION)
Shows that the head is OK if 1.4 times the diameter of the shaft
is good.
By the looks of some of your rivets you may have used the
wrong size rivet set (too small)
GEORGE H. INMAN
ghinman(at)attcanada.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Terry Hobert" <terhobey(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV9-List: Bad wing rib to spar rivets |
Warren,
I had the same problem, I got all the ribs riveted to the main spar and when
I looked under at them I almost sh....... well you know. This was the right
wing too, I had already done the left wing and for some (luck of the draw, I
guess) reason they all turned out OK. Anyway, I ended up drilling out over
18 rivets! I read the advise on a lot of sights and then found that duct
taping up my rivet set and paying attention to the factory head more did the
trick. Live an learn I guess it is all part of the journey.
Terry Hobert 90680 - building fuel tanks.
>From: Warren W Hurd <warren(at)ahyup.com>
>Reply-To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "rv-list(at)matronics.com" , Matronics RV9 List
>
>Subject: RV9-List: Bad wing rib to spar rivets
>Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2003 03:42:05 -0400
>
>--> RV9-List message posted by: Warren W Hurd
>
>I have been happy with most of my rivets until now. During the riveting
>of the wing ribs to the main wing spar I badly deformed some of the
>factory rivet heads. See them at http://www.ahyup.com/Rivet/ To make the
>rivets I used a 2X gun at about 60 psi. It would take 3 to 4 seconds to
>make the shop head to my satisfaction. I was paying much to much
>attention to the shop head and ignoring the factory head.
>I also made some smileys in the ribs. What should I do to make this
>better?
>
>Warren Hurd
>90454 Wings
>http://www.ahyup.com
>Mushroomed Rivets
>
>
Help protect your PC. Get a FREE computer virus scan online from McAfee.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob <panamared2(at)brier.net> |
Subject: | Re: seats fabrics.. |
A comment on seat fabrics.
I don't know how everyone else gets into an RV6, but I end up stepping
right in the middle of the seat before I am able to lower myself into the
seat itself. After a time this makes the fabric dirty/dingy.
Depending on how you enter and exit the aircraft, you might consider this
on the color and type of seat covering you use. I have tired to find a
good heavy canvass, OD in color. Neat thing about OD, the dirtier it gets
the better it looks. When I ordered my seats from D.J. she laughed at me
and told me canvass was not an approved covering as it was not very flame
proof. Somebody should have told all those Guys with the Right Stuff at
Edwards AFB during the 60's, as I recall the XF107 had a canvass seat laced
to a tubular frame!
So I have very nice dirty seats that are flame retardant.
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob <panamared2(at)brier.net> |
Subject: | Re: W&B on a -6A |
This is an very interesting topic. If the RV6 will carry 1800 pounds, what
about 1850? Just what is the real gross weight. I hope Van did some sort
of engineering analysis on the airframe, and just didn't throw darts to
determine the gross weight! This leads to the question, just what is gross
weight anyway (and I don't just mean the FAR defination)? Perhaps gross
weight is not an engineering term, but it has something to do with the
ability of potential pilots?
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
>On the record van's will tell you that you *should* set your max gross at
>1650. Off the record, they will tell you that 1800 is fine, just watch the
>CG as you burn fuel. I've been loaded to 1700 wihout a problem. Just have
>to watch the fuel burn. I landed with alot of fuel burned and it required
>alot of power on landing to keep her level. As long as the pilot ensures
>that all turns are shallow, no aerobatics, no abrupt maneuvers, etc, this
>airplane will fly fine at 1800.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV frame of mind |
Geoff,
After working several years part-time on a Velocity kit, I sold the kit about
50% complete and bought an RV-8A QB kit. It was a very good decision for
many reasons. The main reason, though, was that I simply could not build the
Velocity with my work schedule.
What I learned is that fiberglass kits must generally be built in
8-to-12-hour increments due to lay-up and cure/monitoring time. If you're retired
and
can work full-time on your kit, this is probably okay. If not, I would
recommend sticking with an aluminum or steel and fabric kit. You can work on
aluminum a few hours every day or evening and then quit. If you quit early on
a
fiberglass layup, you could have a nasty surprise when you check it later! I
know!
A little story: Ten years ago, when I first approached my wife about building
an airplane, I told her that I would like to build an RV-6A. She said, "How
many seats does it have?" I said, "2." She said, "Wrong Answer." (We had 2
children still at home.) Now that the kids are on their own, we're happily
building an RV-8A! If you need 4 seats, build an RV-10!
One other note: If you look at RVs from a performance, safety, builder
support, and almost any other objective measure, they almost always beat the heck
out of a Cozy or a Velocity. My personal opinion is that you've really got to
like the "spaceship" looks of the pushers to justify building them.
Good Luck with Your Decision!
Bill Palmer
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary B. Jacobs" <gblayne(at)mchsi.com> |
Subject: | Re: attaching seats |
McMaster Carr Hardware has a lot of interesting types of hook and loop,
including sone super adhesive nylon and marine grade hook and loop that
should work nicely.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Subject: RV-List: attaching seats
>
> Speaking of seats, how does everybody attach the seat cusions to the seat
> frames.
>
> I tried gluing a half strip of velcro to the metal seat back and seat
base,
> with the other half sewn into the fabric cusion. Problem is, I've yet to
> find a glue that's stronger then the velcro. Any time I need to remove
the
> cusion, the glued velcro strip comes along with it.
>
> I suppose I could rivet the velcro strip to the seat back. Any other
ideas?
>
> Andy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
Subject: | Re: W&B on a -6A |
Good question. I just know that the limits can be exceeded. How much, who
knows. I know Van would not just throw darts to determine GW, but what I am
sure he has done is built in a fudge factor for those who push the limits,
just to keep it from falling out of the sky. If he recommended the weight
at 1800, someone would go 1900, and so on. I have heard many mention that
this airplane is over engineered in many ways for this reason exactly.
Van's has told me not to worry about certain things due to the fact that the
plane is over engineered to allow for let's say, poor building habits.
I think most airplanes are this way. They can't set all the limts at the
*real* limits, or we would have alot more accidents due to accidental (or
intentional) acts of exceeding limits.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Soon
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob" <panamared2(at)brier.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: W&B on a -6A
>
> This is an very interesting topic. If the RV6 will carry 1800 pounds,
what
> about 1850? Just what is the real gross weight. I hope Van did some sort
> of engineering analysis on the airframe, and just didn't throw darts to
> determine the gross weight! This leads to the question, just what is
gross
> weight anyway (and I don't just mean the FAR defination)? Perhaps gross
> weight is not an engineering term, but it has something to do with the
> ability of potential pilots?
>
> Bob
> RV6 NightFighter
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
Subject: | governor hose hole in front baffle |
On my RV-7/IO-360-A1B6, the governor hose OD is 1" including the firesleeve.
I'm curious what the best way to protect this hose is, as it passes down
through the front baffle floor. Grommet? RTV?
The reason I'm even asking about this, rather than just simply using a
grommet, is that the location of the hole kind of straddles the edge of the
baffle bracket (part #16 in my kit) and the .063" doubler. The issue is
that the grommet would have to accommodate varying thickness...in some areas
baffle+doubler+bracket, baffle+doubler, and just baffle. The range is
basically .032 to .125, so I'm not sure if a grommet is best suited for
this.
Here's a photo of the front baffle, showing the location of the
hole-to-be...the clecoed hole is a good centering candidate:
http://rvproject.com/images/2003/20030928_hose_hole_to_be.jpg
And here's a photo up from underneath, showing roughly how the hole will
straddle the edges of various thicknesses:
http://rvproject.com/images/2003/20030928_hose_hole_beneath.jpg
If I were to drill the hole exactly 1", I believe the firesleeved hose would
have a snug fit. But I can't imagine that letting the firesleeve chafe
against the hole would be kosher. What's the best way to protect the hose
in this case?
Thanks in advance,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: [new builder] Dimpling.. |
In a message dated 9/29/03 10:11:38 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
radomirz(at)vitez.net writes:
<< I suspect I wasn't holding the skin perfectly flat). >>
That is most likely your problem, but move on, when you set the rivets the
rivet head will form the dimple "to fit".
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, firewall forward
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: W&B on a -6A |
Lets say there is a incident with some damage. A insurance claim is filed
and the insurance company suspects that you were over weight. The fight begins.
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | 6A Tip-Up for Sale |
I am selling my well-equipped 6A tip up due to back problems. Specs and pics
at
http://home.att.net/~dpersyk/rv6a.htm
Dennis Persyk N600DP 147 enjoyable hours
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Canyon <steve.canyon(at)verizon.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV frame of mind |
Gkb5577(at)aol.com wrote:
>I'm in the market for another project: tossing b/w Co-Z and RV You
>guys have
>any words of wisdom? Geoff Bowman, North Carolina
---
Geoff,
I've followed both the EZ lists and the RV lists for about 5 years in
anticipation of the time I would build and initially had the same
thoughts. It's been a long time since I convinced myself the RV is
just more 'bang for the buck," and that doesn't count all around
performance advantages of the RVs.
Below is a clip from a builder of one of the EZ/Cozys:
---cut here---
Has anyone flown their Cozy into the Taos Regional airport? Did you
have sufficient runway to comfortably fly in and out? What time of the
year did you visit Taos? http://www.airnav.com/airport/SKX Runway
length is 5798' and the elevation is 7065' MSL
---cut here---
Don't recall ever seeing such a message from an RV builder. If you
intend to fly from one looong concrete strip to another, then that sexy
looking plane may suit your intended missions as well or better, but I
personally want a little more flexibility and may not have the luxury
of postponing an unexpected departure from the original flight
plan. Speed is within probably about 5% or so anyway.
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Guys,
Does anybody know what the practical application difference is between LPS-1 and
LPS-2 for general purpose lubrication? The former contains grease and the latter
is greaseless if memory serves me correctly. Seems that the -1 with grease
might hold up longer (i.e. be less likely to wash or evaporate out). Just
thought I'd tap into the endless knowledge and wisdom of The Great RV-List to
see if anybody has a revelation on which one to use for various applications
like rod end bearings, piano hinges, and various FWF linkages and assemblies--and
why one is better than the other for said application.
Forever indebted,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D painting...painting...painting...
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: W&B on a -6A |
A couple of comments based on the recent posts regarding my
gross weight of 1800 lbs.
I decided on 1800 lbs based on various messages posted on
the RV list over the years. A major one was with regards
to the float conversion which supposedly received an ok from
Van to go up to 1800 lbs. There have also been postings
giving G loads at various weights and 1800 seems to still
be in the Utility category. I haven't had my plane inspected
yet (still waiting for the Feds), but am confident that I
am allowed to set the gross weight to what I want since I'm
the manufacturer. A slightly related issue is that there are
no structural differences between the -6 and the -6A, but the
gross weight was raised by Van by 50 pounds. I wonder what
the ultimate gross weight really is for these planes and
how is it determined? I suspect gear loads on a rough landing
have a lot to do with it.
With regards to insurance issues: I'm certainly no legal
expert, but I would rather be at 1700 lbs with a listed
gross weight of 1800 rather than a listed gros weight of 1650.
Doug Medema
RV-6A N276DM waiting for inspection.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
Subject: | Re: [new builder] Dimpling.. |
> Should I re-do the "bad" ones? Any suggestions?
Don't sweat it, just keep it all perpendicular as you dimple. But my real
advice to any new builder is that you ought to take the SportAir "RV
Assembly" workshop. It's *well* worth the money.
http://www.sportair.com/workshops/RV%20Assembly.html
Alternatively/additionally, find another local RV builder and/or an EAA
technical counselor. Other builders are what really make this whole thing
happen. I definitely would not have gotten this far without other guys
locally and all the help I've gotten on the email lists.
Best of luck,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: governor hose hole in front baffle |
Since the hose is at an angle the hole is made egg shaped. I just made the
hole with about 1/8 clearance all around and then sealed with red silicone.
OR
Why not run the hose on top of the engine? You have AFP, FI. The hoses
(Gov, and fuel) will fight each other if routed under the cylinders. At
least the did for me.
FWIW
>
>On my RV-7/IO-360-A1B6, the governor hose OD is 1" including the firesleeve.
>I'm curious what the best way to protect this hose is, as it passes down
>through the front baffle floor. Grommet? RTV?
>
>The reason I'm even asking about this, rather than just simply using a
>grommet, is that the location of the hole kind of straddles the edge of the
>baffle bracket (part #16 in my kit) and the .063" doubler. The issue is
>that the grommet would have to accommodate varying thickness...in some areas
>baffle+doubler+bracket, baffle+doubler, and just baffle. The range is
>basically .032 to .125, so I'm not sure if a grommet is best suited for
>this.
>
>Here's a photo of the front baffle, showing the location of the
>hole-to-be...the clecoed hole is a good centering candidate:
>
>http://rvproject.com/images/2003/20030928_hose_hole_to_be.jpg
>
>And here's a photo up from underneath, showing roughly how the hole will
>straddle the edges of various thicknesses:
>
>http://rvproject.com/images/2003/20030928_hose_hole_beneath.jpg
>
>If I were to drill the hole exactly 1", I believe the firesleeved hose would
>have a snug fit. But I can't imagine that letting the firesleeve chafe
>against the hole would be kosher. What's the best way to protect the hose
>in this case?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
Subject: | Re: W&B on a -6A |
dmedema(at)att.net wrote:
> A slightly related issue is that there are
> no structural differences between the -6 and the -6A, but the
> gross weight was raised by Van by 50 pounds.
September 15, 2003 - September 29, 2003
RV-Archive.digest.vol-og