RV-Archive.digest.vol-oj
October 16, 2003 - October 29, 2003
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Sherwin-Williams 988 rattle can self etching primer under dark grey
Rustoleum "Hard Hat" rattle can enamel. So far it's holding up pretty
well.
-
Larry Bowen, RV-8 finishing
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
thomas a. sargent said:
>
> What are people using for their interior cabin paint? I tested a spray
> can of Tempo Aircraft Enamel.; I eventually figured out how to get a
> reasonably good result (it tends to orange peel very easily), but the
> shade of gray is wrong for my interior and it's only available in just a
> few other colors.
>
> I'd prefer something in a spray can. A paint that I'd have to use a
> spray gun with is OK as long as it's something less lethal than an
> isocyanate paint. I'd like to get by using just a common Home depot
> respirator mask.
>
> --
> Tom Sargent
> RV-6A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: cabin interior paint |
Ive been trying some appliance paint from Walmart. Very tough but limited
colors.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: cabin interior paint
>
> What are people using for their interior cabin paint? I tested a spray
> can of Tempo Aircraft Enamel.; I eventually figured out how to get a
> reasonably good result (it tends to orange peel very easily), but the
> shade of gray is wrong for my interior and it's only available in just a
> few other colors.
>
> I'd prefer something in a spray can. A paint that I'd have to use a
> spray gun with is OK as long as it's something less lethal than an
> isocyanate paint. I'd like to get by using just a common Home depot
> respirator mask.
>
> --
> Tom Sargent
> RV-6A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fire resistant seats |
There are foams that meet your criteria: ask Oregon Aero for their catalog
(I've no financial ties to them)- I just got mine and it is full of a lot of
interesting photos and info as well as difficult to find items. Prices are a
little on the high side but they do have the research done. Does anyone know
what the chemical is that you can spray on things that makes it fire resistant?
It was discovered during the WWII .AO? Geoff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Primer Paint - RV10 |
After evaluating a number of primers, I selected a Deft water-reducible
epoxy for use on my -4. I have not found anything with similar adhesion or
toughness. An interesting test of a primer is to dimple a test panel after
priming and inspect the deformed area to see if the paint remains adhered.
As soon as I start a -10, I will etch, alodine, and prime (with
Deft)...again.
Good luck.
Dean Pichon
RV-4, 165 hrs
>From: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti(at)Boeing.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Primer Paint - RV10
>Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 11:40:58 -0400
>
>
>I've heard there are two schools of thought for primer, 2 part epoxy or not
>2 part epoxy. I've decided to use the 2 part epoxy, but I have very little
>experience on which brand. I've heard Boeing makes a water based epoxy
>primer. Expensive and clean up is with water, but must be sure to dry the
>water.
>
>I have a gravity feed HVLP spray gun.
>
>Would anyone like to share their knowledge on epoxy primers? I'd also like
>to hear from the non-epoxy school to further my education.
>
>
>Thank You
>Rick Conti
>The Boeing Company
>office: 703 - 872 - 4602
> cell: 703 - 472 - 8592
>If you're looking for a cute saying....fuhgeddaboudit
>
>
Never get a busy signal because you are always connected with high-speed
Internet access. Click here to comparison-shop providers.
https://broadband.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
There was some discussion yesterday about RV stability.
From what I have heard Van say and from my own experience in testing this
The RVs have neutral static stability on the lateral axis (roll), but are
very positively dynamically stable on this axis.
They have positive static stability in pitch and positive dynamic stability
in pitch, but this is less than the positive dynamic stablity of roll. As
one adds weight to the aircraft in seats or baggage, or removes weight from
the fuel tanks the aircraft becomes less positively stable in pitch both
static and dynamic.
That said, it says nothing about the short coupling of the tail feathers to
the CG and the short wings to the CG. It doesn't take much to cause a large
drift in either axis.
If I had a choice of which to put in first (which I did) it would be the
autopilot for the roll axis as I can go for 20 minutes or more in smooth air
without drifting more than 100 ft in altitude, but the change in fuel loads
requires aileron trimming every 5-10 minutes. (Ok so I've only found smooth
air twice in 60000nm of flight, I did get it to stay on altitude via trim
for awhile)
I also find it a lot easier to stay on track with the altimeter than with a
heading indicator in that one feels acceleration of the altitude/attitude
change more so than a heading change.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | ENGINES FOR SALE |
I have available three new IO-360-M1A style engines for sale.Built using the Superior
engine kit. They are assembled ,test run,crated and ready to ship.You
can see these engines on our website listed below.We also sell the kits unassembled
in both Superior and ECI as well as all the accessories in kits or individually.
http://www.superflite.com/engstk.htm
Jesse Robinson
A.E.R.O. Inc
1-800-362-3044 ext 228
1-618-797-6630 ext 228
______________ ______________ ______________ ______________
Sent via the KillerWebMail system at a-e-r-o.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
Keeping the wings level will dramatically increase the likelihood of the
airplane staying on its altitude. More importantly, a Roll A/P should be the
first choice because it will save your bacon if you have a vacuum failure,
or if a VFR pilot ends up in the soup.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
RV-4 Nav-aid, Alt-trak sitting on the bench waiting for winter to install.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
Wheeler,
I installed the DigiTrak in my RV-6 first. Great toy. Then
installed the Altrak when it first came out. You're correct that you
can trim an RV in SMOOTH air after a bit of trying, but in turbulance
it's a little more difficult.
I value both of them and I'm not going to give up either one, but the
one thing to leads me to value the Altrak more would be the
tolerances that ATC holds the IFR pilot to. It'll take a couple of
minutes to get 2 miles off course, but just a few seconds to bust
300', which could lead to a violation.
The Altrak really reduces the scan workload when your trying busy in
the cockpit, IFR or VFR.
Just a different opinion.
Laird RV-6 800 hrs
SoCal
>
>There was some discussion yesterday about RV stability.
>
>>From what I have heard Van say and from my own experience in testing this
>
>The RVs have neutral static stability on the lateral axis (roll), but are
>very positively dynamically stable on this axis.
>
>They have positive static stability in pitch and positive dynamic stability
>in pitch, but this is less than the positive dynamic stablity of roll. As
>one adds weight to the aircraft in seats or baggage, or removes weight from
>the fuel tanks the aircraft becomes less positively stable in pitch both
>static and dynamic.
>
>That said, it says nothing about the short coupling of the tail feathers to
>the CG and the short wings to the CG. It doesn't take much to cause a large
>drift in either axis.
>
>If I had a choice of which to put in first (which I did) it would be the
>autopilot for the roll axis as I can go for 20 minutes or more in smooth air
>without drifting more than 100 ft in altitude, but the change in fuel loads
>requires aileron trimming every 5-10 minutes. (Ok so I've only found smooth
>air twice in 60000nm of flight, I did get it to stay on altitude via trim
>for awhile)
>
>I also find it a lot easier to stay on track with the altimeter than with a
>heading indicator in that one feels acceleration of the altitude/attitude
>change more so than a heading change.
>
>W
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Brown" <scottbrown(at)precisionjet.com> |
Listers,
For those that have decided to put a checkered rudder on there air 'chines,
what is best size of checker to paint. I am thinking either 4" or 5"
checkers, but not really sure. Can anyone shed some light on this? I have
heard in the past that there is an optimal size that looks the best.
Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Pilla" <mpilla(at)maine.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Borrow Hartzell C2YL Prop: New England Area |
Folks,
A long story, but the short version is I would like to borrow a Hartzell
C2YL prop so that my cowl can be fitted to my RV-4. My prop has been
ordered, but won't be shipped until 12/20 and I would like to get the
cowling, baffles, etc., all fitted sooner rather than later.
The prop will only be placed on my engine (O-320-D1A equivalent) for fitting
purposes. The prop should only be needed for a week, at most.
If anyone in the New England area has a Hartzell C2YL prop that has not yet
been installed, I would be happy to pick it up within a 100 miles radius of
Ashland, MA (near Framingham) and/or pay shipping charges both ways.
Thank you.
Michael Pilla
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | EZ-Pilot by Trio Avionics |
Doug Rozendaal wrote:
>
>
> Keeping the wings level will dramatically increase the likelihood of the
> airplane staying on its altitude. More importantly, a Roll A/P should be the
> first choice because it will save your bacon if you have a vacuum failure,
> or if a VFR pilot ends up in the soup.
>
> Tailwinds,
> Doug Rozendaal
> RV-4 Nav-aid, Alt-trak sitting on the bench waiting for winter to install.
From the very early planning stages of the panel in my then VFR RV-6, I
considered the wing-leveler to be not only a convenience, but, as Doug
stated, the way out of an unexpected bad situation. The Navaid has
faithfully served my needs for over 500 hrs, and I have learned most of
its little quirks.
But.....there is a new kid on the block. Even though the DigiTrak guys
have gotten a lot of deserved attention with their new systems, and I am
a very satisfied AlTrak user, Trio Avionics has introduced an auto pilot
for us Navaid pilots who want to join the 21st century. I have now
completed a handful of hours flying the new EZ-Pilot:
http://www.trioavionics.com
My trusty Navaid has been permanently benched! The EZ-Pilot uses the
Navaid servo, and for Navaid users is shipped with an adapter cable that
makes it plug-n-play. You can purchase just the control head if a
functional Navaid servo is already installed.
The feature set of the EZ-Pilot is far beyond what the Navaid can offer.
I am amazed at how I can fly 180 degrees away from a waypoint, hit the
servo switch on the EZ-Pilot, and watch the thing fly my RV-6 into a
perfect teardrop intersection with the direct course to the waypoint.
Having nav info displayed on the control head also brings real utility
to flying heading vectors as well. The roll control is via a solid state
gyro so there are no little motors spinning in the control head. The yaw
response is quicker and more precise than the Navaid which results in a
better ride in turbulence.
I realize some of these features are available with the DigiTrak, but
the cool thing about the EZ-Pilot is the way it can serve as an
impressive upgrade for us Navaid customers. The only problem I have
found with the EZ-Pilot is the VFD display. The unit was designed by
guys who fly those planes with the wings on the wrong end of the fuse,
and their panels are somewhat shrouded from direct sunlight. The VFD
display is cool for those guys but gets blown out in the direct sunlight
that we can get on our exposed RV panels. As long as the sun is not
shining directly on the display, it really looks nice. But I have to
shade the unit with my hand to read it when the sun is at my back.
Having said that, I have NO intention of putting the Navaid back in the
plane! The preciseness and features of the EZ-Pilot are just that much
more advanced than what I had been flying. Jerry Hansen, one of the trio
at Trio Avionics has been very receptive to my input during beta testing
and is aware of the display issue. I think you will find him a good guy
to work with if you decide to pursue his system.
These are exciting times for experimental aviation! The new toys just
keep coming. Flying around with the Dyon doing its thing, the AlTrak
holding altitude within 10-20 feet, and the EZ-Pilot holding course
within 0.01 mile, and me just sitting there watching over everything and
for traffic.......its hard for me to believe this affordable yet
sophisticated capability is in a plane that was hatched in my backyard.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: cabin interior paint |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Tom,
I used plain ol' Rustoleum in my cockpit areas. I'm not flying yet but other local
builders have used the same thing and have been flying for some time, with
good durability results as long as the surface was properly prepped and CLEAN
before painting. It's cheap, comes in lots of colors, easy to touch up later,
etc etc. One local professional painter who has done several aircraft paint
jobs says he has used Rustoleum in various applications and thinks that it's
about 70% as durable as a catalyzed polyurethane topcoat that costs 10-20X as
much. I'm planning to use semi-gloss black Rustoleum on the top of my cowl between
the spinner and windshield to cut glare. I recall a few years back reading
a Sport Aviation cover story on a Piper Cherokee that was completely polished
except for the fiberglass parts which were painted with Silver Rustoleum.
This included the cowl nose bowl and wheel pants which get direct impact from
bugs, rain, etc....and the owner said it held up ve
ry well and rarely needed touchup. And of course, it's easy to touch up when
you need to...
FWIW.
Maybe I'll paint the whole airplane with Rustoleum next time around : )
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D about ready to hang up the paint gun for the winter...
From: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: cabin interior paint
What are people using for their interior cabin paint? I tested a spray
can of Tempo Aircraft Enamel.; I eventually figured out how to get a
reasonably good result (it tends to orange peel very easily), but the
shade of gray is wrong for my interior and it's only available in just a
few other colors.
I'd prefer something in a spray can. A paint that I'd have to use a
spray gun with is OK as long as it's something less lethal than an
isocyanate paint. I'd like to get by using just a common Home depot
respirator mask.
--
Tom Sargent
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | CS Prop oil line options |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Guys, is there a recommended life limit on flexible oil lines? Aerosport Power
is quoting $165 for a rigid stainless steel line between the governor and prop,
and $80 for a flexible fire-sleeved hose. Sounds like the flexible line is
the obvious choice unless it has to be replaced more often. I suppose it may
weigh a bit more too. Anybody see something I'm missing, or know where I might
find any better prices than this? (Usually it's hard to beat Aerosport Power
but it never hurts to ask...)
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D thinking about a CS prop...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Borrow Hartzell C2YL Prop: New England Area |
MICHAEL-I HAVE A BLANK HUB WITH THE MOUNTING STUDS NO BLADES YOU CAN MOUNT
YOUR SPINNER BACKING PLATE AND DO YOUR COWLS-CALL ME-TOM
Tom Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
President EAA Chapter 1097
wfact01(at)aol.com
249 Hard Hill Road North
PO Box 426
Bethlehem, CT 06751
Tel: 203-266-5300
Fax: 202-266-5140
EAA Technical/Flight Advisor
RV-8 540 LYC (Engine Runs, Taxi-Tests)
S-51 Mustang Turbine (Under Construction)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Checkered Tails |
On mine, I simply looked through a stack of Sport Aviation magazines looking
for checker tailed RV's, picked out a grid size that looked right, and
copied it. I think my rudder has 8 rows of squares and 3 columns. I
stretched the squares so the three columns taper with the width of the
rudder (i.e the bottom "squares" are wider than the top squares). That
prevented me from having any incomplete squares.
You can find some pictures here:
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6/index.html
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Brown" <scottbrown(at)precisionjet.com>
Subject: RV-List: Checkered Tails
>
> Listers,
>
> For those that have decided to put a checkered rudder on there air
'chines,
> what is best size of checker to paint. I am thinking either 4" or 5"
> checkers, but not really sure. Can anyone shed some light on this? I have
> heard in the past that there is an optimal size that looks the best.
>
> Scott
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Pilla" <mpilla(at)maine.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Borrow Hartzell C2YL Prop: New England Area |
Tom,
Thanks for the offer. I'll call tomorrow - got the message too late this
evening to call.
Michael
----- Original Message -----
From: <WFACT01(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Borrow Hartzell C2YL Prop: New England Area
>
> MICHAEL-I HAVE A BLANK HUB WITH THE MOUNTING STUDS NO BLADES YOU CAN MOUNT
> YOUR SPINNER BACKING PLATE AND DO YOUR COWLS-CALL ME-TOM
>
> Tom Whelan
> Whelan Farms Airport
> President EAA Chapter 1097
> wfact01(at)aol.com
> 249 Hard Hill Road North
> PO Box 426
> Bethlehem, CT 06751
> Tel: 203-266-5300
> Fax: 202-266-5140
> EAA Technical/Flight Advisor
> RV-8 540 LYC (Engine Runs, Taxi-Tests)
> S-51 Mustang Turbine (Under Construction)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | API fuel pump current requirements? |
Listers,
Can anyone tell me what the maximum and nominal current draw is for Airflow Performance's
14 volt fuel boost pump?
Charlie Kuss
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: CS Prop oil line options |
I bought the Lycoming stainless line for my CS prop installation. Can't
think of many failure scenarios or weaknesses of either, if fab'd/assembled
properly. So, not knowing why one would be better than the other, I just
spent the $$ and went with the OEM/Lycoming part.
Another benefit of the stainless is the fit around the engine. Having a
piece of well fit 1/2" tubing to route baffling and accessories around was
much easier than a loose, 1" effective OD firesleeved hose.
my 2 cents
Bryan Jones -8
Pearland, Texas
>
>Guys, is there a recommended life limit on flexible oil lines? Aerosport
>Power is quoting $165 for a rigid stainless steel line between the governor
>and prop, and $80 for a flexible fire-sleeved hose. Sounds like the
>flexible line is the obvious choice unless it has to be replaced more
>often. I suppose it may weigh a bit more too. Anybody see something I'm
>missing, or know where I might find any better prices than this? (Usually
>it's hard to beat Aerosport Power but it never hurts to ask...)
>
>--Mark Navratil
>Cedar Rapids, Iowa
>RV-8A N2D thinking about a CS prop...
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Weather...( long ) |
Just a reminder that an extensive collection of Austin's prose is available on
the Western Canad Wing web site, at
http://www.vansairforce.org/6430/
Tedd McHenry
Van's Air Force
Western Canada Wing
www.vansairforce.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smoothweasel(at)juno.com |
Does anyone have any suggestion for buying parts(rings,gaskets....ect.)
at a discounted price?
Joel Graber
-4 finishing
Brooksville Ms
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: API fuel pump current requirements? |
The manual (page 16, Revision B) says it draws 5 amps at 12 VDC, and that
the pump "should be protected by a 7 to 10 amp circuit breaker."
I used a 10A fuse.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie Kuss" <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RV-List: API fuel pump current requirements?
>
> Listers,
> Can anyone tell me what the maximum and nominal current draw is for
Airflow Performance's 14 volt fuel boost pump?
> Charlie Kuss
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: API fuel pump current requirements? |
Charlie,
The book says that it draws 5 amps at 12 volts and should be protected
by a 7 to 10 amp circuit breaker and use a minimum of 16 ga wire.
Dave
Charlie Kuss wrote:
>
>Listers,
> Can anyone tell me what the maximum and nominal current draw is for Airflow Performance's
14 volt fuel boost pump?
>Charlie Kuss
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: CS Prop oil line options |
Hi Mark and Listers,
I had a stainless steel line for my O-360 that turned out not to fit due to
the after market ND alternator mounting. Some amount of bending might have
made it
fit.
I asked around and was basically told the following information:
If you do fit a stainless steel CS prop line be sure that have one that does
not require bending to make it fit your application. Inspect it very
carefully for scratches and marks that cannot easily be polished out. Look
for
evidence that it might have suffered previous bending abuses etc.
Also be very careful to mount it with the right number and type of aviation
type Adell clamps positioned as called out by Lycoming. The tube needs to
drop into place with no stress and it needs to be tied down tight. If it
came from another engine and needs to be pushed or pulled into place avoid
bending it any large amount to fit.
If getting it into the right position calls for removing some engine pieces
do so rather than bending it out of stock form to make it fit into place
then re-bending in place to make the fittings line up. remove the parts etc.
install the line and button it up securely.
This piece of tubing can throw or spray a lot of oil 'in a very short time
onto hot stuff" if it cracks or breaks at some point where it suffered any
accidental abuse during a tough installation or what have you..
I chose to install the flex line from Bart at Aero Sport Power and took
extra care to see that it was routed well and held in place properly.
I can not advise as the life expectancy of the flex line. Thanks for the
reminder to look into it.
This project sure is full of details ain't it?(;-)
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: CS Prop oil line options
>
> I bought the Lycoming stainless line for my CS prop installation. Can't
> think of many failure scenarios or weaknesses of either, if
fab'd/assembled
> properly. So, not knowing why one would be better than the other, I just
> spent the $$ and went with the OEM/Lycoming part.
>
> Another benefit of the stainless is the fit around the engine. Having a
> piece of well fit 1/2" tubing to route baffling and accessories around was
> much easier than a loose, 1" effective OD firesleeved hose.
>
> my 2 cents
>
> Bryan Jones -8
> Pearland, Texas
>
> >Guys, is there a recommended life limit on flexible oil lines? Aerosport
> >Power is quoting $165 for a rigid stainless steel line between the
governor
> >and prop, and $80 for a flexible fire-sleeved hose. Sounds like the
> >flexible line is the obvious choice unless it has to be replaced more
> >often. I suppose it may weigh a bit more too. Anybody see something I'm
> >missing, or know where I might find any better prices than this?
(Usually
> >it's hard to beat Aerosport Power but it never hurts to ask...)
> >
> >--Mark Navratil
> >Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> >RV-8A N2D thinking about a CS prop...
----- Original Message -----
From: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: CS Prop oil line options
>
> I bought the Lycoming stainless line for my CS prop installation. Can't
> think of many failure scenarios or weaknesses of either, if
fab'd/assembled
> properly. So, not knowing why one would be better than the other, I just
> spent the $$ and went with the OEM/Lycoming part.
>
> Another benefit of the stainless is the fit around the engine. Having a
> piece of well fit 1/2" tubing to route baffling and accessories around was
> much easier than a loose, 1" effective OD firesleeved hose.
>
> my 2 cents
>
> Bryan Jones -8
> Pearland, Texas
>
> >
> >Guys, is there a recommended life limit on flexible oil lines? Aerosport
> >Power is quoting $165 for a rigid stainless steel line between the
governor
> >and prop, and $80 for a flexible fire-sleeved hose. Sounds like the
> >flexible line is the obvious choice unless it has to be replaced more
> >often. I suppose it may weigh a bit more too. Anybody see something I'm
> >missing, or know where I might find any better prices than this?
(Usually
> >it's hard to beat Aerosport Power but it never hurts to ask...)
> >
> >--Mark Navratil
> >Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> >RV-8A N2D thinking about a CS prop...
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Laird,
you bring up a very good point in terms of VFR vs IFR utilization. To me if
I had built this with IFR being the base platform I was shooting for, I
would have paid the bucks and used an integrated two axis platform, as its
really not possible in that environment to say which is more useful. Without
either its much more workload, having only one doesn't reduce the workload
much, but having both does, the sum of the parts not being equal to having
both.
In the VFR environment the roll axis seems to provide great reduction in
workload, more so then the pitch does. Certainly the emergency feature of
the roll device is nice, but I didn't go there because of the one time I
really had to use this. In the aftermath of my own reflections I had to
admit that I was counting on that as an out when I flew into conditions that
could easily transition beyond my abilities without such devices. That is a
no no in my opinion, and I have hopefully rectified my decision making
process in this area. I no longer consider the Navaid as an emergency device
for any reason.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
You can get many of the consumables at Chief, Aircraft Spruce, etc. Bought
most of mine at Superior Air Parts, but they've been bought out since I last
ordered - not sure who to call now.
Get good used or surplus engine components from EnParts, at 700 Ferris Rd
Lancaster, Texas, (972) 227-0086. Good people.
Bryan Jones -8
Pearland, Texas
>Does anyone have any suggestion for buying parts(rings,gaskets....ect.)
>at a discounted price?
>
>
>Joel Graber
>-4 finishing
>Brooksville Ms
Enjoy MSN 8 patented spam control and more with MSN 8 Dial-up Internet
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Brumbelow <csbrumbelow(at)fedex.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Borrow Hartzell C2YL Prop: New England Area |
Instead of trying to borrow a prop, have you considered mounting the spinner
backplate with spacers instead? Vans or Hartzell should be able to give you the
thickness of the prop. You could use either PVC pipe or lots of washers to get
the appropriate spacing.
Scott in MEM
RV-8A
engine running, inspections coming
Michael Pilla wrote:
>
> Folks,
> A long story, but the short version is I would like to borrow a Hartzell
> C2YL prop so that my cowl can be fitted to my RV-4. My prop has been
> ordered, but won't be shipped until 12/20 and I would like to get the
> cowling, baffles, etc., all fitted sooner rather than later.
>
> The prop will only be placed on my engine (O-320-D1A equivalent) for fitting
> purposes. The prop should only be needed for a week, at most.
>
> If anyone in the New England area has a Hartzell C2YL prop that has not yet
> been installed, I would be happy to pick it up within a 100 miles radius of
> Ashland, MA (near Framingham) and/or pay shipping charges both ways.
>
> Thank you.
>
> Michael Pilla
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Borrow Hartzell C2YL Prop: New England Area |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Brumbelow" <csbrumbelow(at)fedex.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Borrow Hartzell C2YL Prop: New England Area
>
> Instead of trying to borrow a prop, have you considered mounting the
spinner
> backplate with spacers instead? Vans or Hartzell should be able to give
you the
> thickness of the prop. You could use either PVC pipe or lots of washers to
get
> the appropriate spacing.
>
> Scott in MEM
> RV-8A
> engine running, inspections coming
>
>
> Michael Pilla wrote:
>
> >
> > Folks,
> > A long story, but the short version is I would like to borrow a Hartzell
> > C2YL prop so that my cowl can be fitted to my RV-4. My prop has been
> > ordered, but won't be shipped until 12/20 and I would like to get the
> > cowling, baffles, etc., all fitted sooner rather than later.
> >
> > The prop will only be placed on my engine (O-320-D1A equivalent) for
fitting
> > purposes. The prop should only be needed for a week, at most.
> >
> > If anyone in the New England area has a Hartzell C2YL prop that has not
yet
> > been installed, I would be happy to pick it up within a 100 miles radius
of
> > Ashland, MA (near Framingham) and/or pay shipping charges both ways.
> >
> > Thank you.
> >
> > Michael Pilla
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Pilla" <mpilla(at)maine.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Borrow Hartzell C2YL Prop: New England Area |
Thanks, Scott. A couple of other folks also made the same recommendation -
that is the path I'll follow.
Michael Pilla
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Brumbelow" <csbrumbelow(at)fedex.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Borrow Hartzell C2YL Prop: New England Area
>
> Instead of trying to borrow a prop, have you considered mounting the
spinner
> backplate with spacers instead? Vans or Hartzell should be able to give
you the
> thickness of the prop. You could use either PVC pipe or lots of washers to
get
> the appropriate spacing.
>
> Scott in MEM
> RV-8A
> engine running, inspections coming
>
>
> Michael Pilla wrote:
>
> >
> > Folks,
> > A long story, but the short version is I would like to borrow a Hartzell
> > C2YL prop so that my cowl can be fitted to my RV-4. My prop has been
> > ordered, but won't be shipped until 12/20 and I would like to get the
> > cowling, baffles, etc., all fitted sooner rather than later.
> >
> > The prop will only be placed on my engine (O-320-D1A equivalent) for
fitting
> > purposes. The prop should only be needed for a week, at most.
> >
> > If anyone in the New England area has a Hartzell C2YL prop that has not
yet
> > been installed, I would be happy to pick it up within a 100 miles radius
of
> > Ashland, MA (near Framingham) and/or pay shipping charges both ways.
> >
> > Thank you.
> >
> > Michael Pilla
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: CS Prop oil line options |
> Guys, is there a recommended life limit on flexible oil lines? Aerosport
Power is quoting $165 for a rigid stainless steel line between the governor
and prop, and $80 for a flexible fire-sleeved hose. Sounds like the
flexible line is the obvious choice unless it has to be replaced more often.
I suppose it may weigh a bit more too. Anybody see something I'm missing,
or know where I might find any better prices than this? (Usually it's hard
to beat Aerosport Power but it never hurts to ask...)
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A N2D thinking about a CS prop...
Mark,
The $165 sounds about right. I paid $145 for mine about 4 years ago. Any
flexible line I've researched should be replaced after 5 years, especially
in a high pressure critical application like the prop governor. Not wanting
to hassle with it in the future, I bit the bullet and paid the extra $ for
the SS line and am glad I did.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 256 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tracy Crook" <lors01(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EZ-Pilot by Trio Avionics |
>Big Snip<
>The only problem I have
> found with the EZ-Pilot is the VFD display. The unit was designed by
> guys who fly those planes with the wings on the wrong end of the fuse,
> and their panels are somewhat shrouded from direct sunlight. The VFD
> display is cool for those guys but gets blown out in the direct sunlight
> that we can get on our exposed RV panels. As long as the sun is not
> shining directly on the display, it really looks nice. But I have to
> shade the unit with my hand to read it when the sun is at my back.
>
> Sam Buchanan
Had the same issue on the EM2 engine monitor I just (finally) finished
development on. The filter used on VFD displays exposed to direct sunlight
makes a huge difference. I know you don't want to dig into your autopilot
but you might try a little patch of removable window tint (for car windows)
over the display and seeing the effect. One layer of the 'dark' tint or two
layers of 'medium' tint made mine direct sunlight readable. There are even
better solutions out there but not ones that you can find at the corner auto
parts store.
Tracy Crook ( Idiot for thinking I could finish the EM2 by last June )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EZ-Pilot by Trio Avionics |
I wonder if this "tinted overlay" would work on iPaqs used for mapping
displays (like AnywhereMap). I have a friend who removed his iPaq and
AnywhereMap from his RV-6A because it wasn't sunlight readable (enough).
I don't know what a VFD display is and if any PDAs use that type display.
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tracy Crook" <lors01(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: EZ-Pilot by Trio Avionics
>
> >Big Snip<
>
> >The only problem I have
> > found with the EZ-Pilot is the VFD display. . The VFD
> > display gets blown out in the direct sunlight
> > that we can get on our exposed RV panels. As long as the sun is not
> > shining directly on the display, it really looks nice. But I have to
> > shade the unit with my hand to read it when the sun is at my back.
> >
> > Sam Buchanan
>
> Had the same issue on the EM2 engine monitor I just (finally) finished
> development on. The filter used on VFD displays exposed to direct
sunlight
> makes a huge difference. I know you don't want to dig into your autopilot
> but you might try a little patch of removable window tint (for car
windows)
> over the display and seeing the effect. One layer of the 'dark' tint or
two
> layers of 'medium' tint made mine direct sunlight readable. There are
even
> better solutions out there but not ones that you can find at the corner
auto
> parts store.
>
> Tracy Crook ( Idiot for thinking I could finish the EM2 by last June )
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: EZ-Pilot by Trio |
Avionics
I don't think this type of filter would work very will on the Ipaq. The Ipaq actualy
has a reflective display and needs light on the front to be seen. I think
the main issue with the Ipaq is the touch screen prevents any type of anti-glare
coating on the display. Any type of coating would get scratched off using
the device. It is sun light readable but you also get the glare of the sun
in your eyes.
Alan Krtizman
RV-8, flying with Ipaq
----- Original Message -----
I wonder if this "tinted overlay" would work on iPaqs used for mapping
displays (like AnywhereMap). I have a friend who removed his iPaq and
AnywhereMap from his RV-6A because it wasn't sunlight readable (enough).
I don't know what a VFD display is and if any PDAs use that type display.
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tracy Crook" <lors01(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EZ-Pilot by Trio |
Avionics
>
> I wonder if this "tinted overlay" would work on iPaqs used for mapping
> displays (like AnywhereMap). I have a friend who removed his iPaq and
> AnywhereMap from his RV-6A because it wasn't sunlight readable (enough).
>
> I don't know what a VFD display is and if any PDAs use that type display.
>
> David Carter
Filters are most effective on displays that generate their own light (like
VFDs or plasma).
Tried the window tint on LCD version of the EM2 and it was a miserable
failure, even with the backlight on.
I use AnywhereMap with an iPAQ but never tried the window tint on it.
Probably would not work since it is an LCD display. I'm surprised your
friend found the iPAQ not acceptable though.
Tracy Crook
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Display readability in sunlight |
Tracy Crook wrote:
> I use AnywhereMap with an iPAQ but never tried the window tint on it.
> Probably would not work since it is an LCD display. I'm surprised your
> friend found the iPAQ not acceptable though.
An important component of an iPAQ installation is a mount that allows
the iPAQ to be adjusted for various reflections and lighting conditions.
I have found that a slight adjustment of the RAM ball mount on my iPAQ
is enough to eliminate sun glare or a reflection from the passenger's
light-colored shirt.
As with many reflective screens, polarized sunglasses will inhibit the
apparent brightness of the iPAQ screen. But I find the iPAQ to be easy
to read under all daylight conditions, and the AnywhereMap software is a
supremely capable nav tool.
Sam Buchanan
http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 10/16/2003 11:05:41 PM Eastern Standard Time,
smoothweasel(at)juno.com writes:
Does anyone have any suggestion for buying parts(rings,gaskets....ect.)
at a discounted price?
Joel Graber
-4 finishing
Brooksville Ms
I used AERO aviation 2 years ago, at the time they had the best prices.
Their number (800) 910-1281.
-Mike Kraus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> by Trio Avionics |
by Trio Avionics
At 18:21 2003-10-17, you wrote:
>
> >
> > I wonder if this "tinted overlay" would work on iPaqs used for mapping
> > displays (like AnywhereMap). I have a friend who removed his iPaq and
> > AnywhereMap from his RV-6A because it wasn't sunlight readable (enough).
> >
> > I don't know what a VFD display is and if any PDAs use that type display.
> >
> > David Carter
>
>Filters are most effective on displays that generate their own light (like
>VFDs or plasma).
>Tried the window tint on LCD version of the EM2 and it was a miserable
>failure, even with the backlight on.
>
> I use AnywhereMap with an iPAQ but never tried the window tint on it.
>Probably would not work since it is an LCD display. I'm surprised your
>friend found the iPAQ not acceptable though.
>
>Tracy Crook
I'm surprised as well. I've used an Ipaq/Anywhere Map for several
years. The only display problem is at night when you can't turn it down
enough. Then the mylar sun screen film helps. It would light up the whole
canopy in the RV-4.
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
13B in gestation mode
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fire resistant seats |
| From: | Christopher J Fortin <cjfortin(at)juno.com> |
A quick search on the net produced this:
Use of Decoration Materials In University Residence Halls
The following is a flame-resistant formula:
Borax: 7oz.
Boric Acid: 3 oz.
Hot Water: 2 quarts
These materials can be purchased from a drug store. The material to be
treated should be dipped in or sprayed with the solution. After
treatment, check several small pieces of the material to assure
flame-resistance. Re-apply if sample burns after initial test.
Chris Fortin
N813CJ reserved
From: Gkb5577(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Re: Fire resistant seats
There are foams that meet your criteria: ask Oregon Aero for their
catalog
(I've no financial ties to them)- I just got mine and it is full of a lot
of
interesting photos and info as well as difficult to find items. Prices
are a
little on the high side but they do have the research done. Does
anyone know
what the chemical is that you can spray on things that makes it fire
resistant?
It was discovered during the WWII .AO? Geoff
writes:
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Canyon <steve.canyon(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: flying humor Not RV related |
racker(at)rmci.net wrote:
> > By the way, Qantas is the only major airline that has never
> > had an accident.
>
>Only if you don't call wrecking a 747 an accident .
---
Uhh... and Southwest Airlines?
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Pete Waters <pedroagua(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fire resistant seats |
Not trying to be sarcastic here, but if one really worried about this then one
needs to consider what clothes to wear while flying. Having fireproof seats won't
help you in the event of a cockpit fire if you're clothes catch on fire.
In the military we fly in fireproof nomex flight suits. Theoretically we're
supposed to have the sleeves rolled down and nomex gloves on, with ankle-high
boots, a helmet, and an O2 mask. I.e. almost no skin exposed. Now, some of this
is overkill in a GA airplane, but if you want to be fireproof, buy a nomex
flight suit from military surplus. Flightsuits.com is one supplier, although
not the cheapest. They're available in other colors besides standard military
olive green and desert tan.
If you don't go this far, all pilots and passengers should at least give a thought
to what they wear in the plane. Polyester and most synthetics (like GoreTex
or polypropylene or most of the other high-tech camping / hiking stuff) will
melt and fuse right onto your skin during a fire. They'll have to anesthetize
you heavily to get it off. Your best bet by far (short of nomex) is to wear
cotton clothing or some other natural fiber.
Pedro
(military jet navigator, trying to pass the knowledge along)
Christopher J Fortin wrote:
A quick search on the net produced this:
Use of Decoration Materials In University Residence Halls
The following is a flame-resistant formula:
Borax: 7oz.
Boric Acid: 3 oz.
Hot Water: 2 quarts
These materials can be purchased from a drug store. The material to be
treated should be dipped in or sprayed with the solution. After
treatment, check several small pieces of the material to assure
flame-resistance. Re-apply if sample burns after initial test.
Chris Fortin
N813CJ reserved
From: Gkb5577(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Re: Fire resistant seats
There are foams that meet your criteria: ask Oregon Aero for their
catalog
(I've no financial ties to them)- I just got mine and it is full of a lot
of
interesting photos and info as well as difficult to find items. Prices
are a
little on the high side but they do have the research done. Does
anyone know
what the chemical is that you can spray on things that makes it fire
resistant?
It was discovered during the WWII .AO? Geoff
writes:
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George P. Tyler" <gptyler(at)metrocast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Display readability in sunlight |
I know this is off the original thread but, I have had nothing but trouble
down loading and then transferring up dates into my ipac, in every instance
that I have tried to do it I have had to call for help. Is this just me or
have others had problems loading up dates too?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: RV-List: Re: Display readability in sunlight
>
> Tracy Crook wrote:
>
> > I use AnywhereMap with an iPAQ but never tried the window tint on it.
> > Probably would not work since it is an LCD display. I'm surprised your
> > friend found the iPAQ not acceptable though.
>
>
> An important component of an iPAQ installation is a mount that allows
> the iPAQ to be adjusted for various reflections and lighting conditions.
> I have found that a slight adjustment of the RAM ball mount on my iPAQ
> is enough to eliminate sun glare or a reflection from the passenger's
> light-colored shirt.
>
> As with many reflective screens, polarized sunglasses will inhibit the
> apparent brightness of the iPAQ screen. But I find the iPAQ to be easy
> to read under all daylight conditions, and the AnywhereMap software is a
> supremely capable nav tool.
>
> Sam Buchanan
> http://thervjournal.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Center arm rest length |
> For Mike, or anyone else who has made a center arm
> rest..........how far
> forward did you extend the arm rest.
> tomorrow, if possible, and am looking at attaching angle,
> with nutplates, to
> the top of the tunnel cover and having the rest extend to the
> forward most
> point of the tunnel cover panel.
>
> Will this be far enough forward??
The aileron trim in my 6A is generally what limited the forward end of
the center armrest box. The armrest is more than far enough forward
with regards to its function as an armrest. I believe the forward point
of the tunnel cover is a good landmark.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 388 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Canyon <steve.canyon(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: flying humor Not RV related |
rv6tc wrote:
>They ran a 737 thru a blast fence and into a Chevron station in Burbank
>(Crossing the threshold at 210 KIAS at Flaps 10 will do that for
>you). Two
>weeks later, they ran a 737 off the end of the runway (8/26) in
>Phoenix and
>into a construction area. The hull loss would have been that same spring
>when they taxied onto an active runway in 1,800 RVR in Ontario... right
>into the path of a UAL 737 on takeoff roll. UAL rejected using RTO
>brakes
>(3,000 psi) and both swerved. Less than 300 feet separation. No hull
>loss,
>but "accident"... you decide.
---
I was reminded of the Burbank incident but never heard of the others, I
guess. However, I stand corrected. :-)
I think I heard recently they are the only US carrier to have never had
a fatal accident though. Probably what prompted my post. Oh well...
Thanks,
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RGray67968(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Center arm rest length |
(0.6 points),
at.a.big.ISP(at)matronics.com
Dana,
I put a center console in my flying RV after seeing Mike's. I don't know how
I ever flew without it and, it would surely be missed if I removed it
tomorrow. Mine is all aluminum angle construction with .020 side skins and .032
hinged
top - padded and covered to match the interior. Great for storing items and
in flight snacks, laying your seat belts across so they don't get mixed up,
pilot/pass divider, and a good elbow support for throttle management during
formation. Make yours as long OR short as YOU want to suit YOUR needs (heard that
before huh :
). I just sent you a couple pics of mine to give you something to
go by.
Rick Gray RV6 in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm
For Mike, or anyone else who has made a center arm rest..........how far
forward did you extend the arm rest. Since I don't have my seat foam I am
at a little loss as to where my elbow will rest in relation to the panel.
The only reference point I have is the forward edge of the fabricated tunnel
cover, forward of the flap actuator channel. If this is not clear enough, I
can take a pic and post it for reference. I would like to fabricate this
tomorrow, if possible, and am looking at attaching angle, with nutplates, to
the top of the tunnel cover and having the rest extend to the forward most
point of the tunnel cover panel.
Will this be far enough forward??
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider/fuselage, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit ordered!! Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Fire resistant seats |
Regardless of what clothes you wear, one should wear nomex gloves. Then you
can handle hot objects, beat out flames, etc.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pete Waters" <pedroagua(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Fire resistant seats
>
> Not trying to be sarcastic here, but if one really worried about this then
one needs to consider what clothes to wear while flying. Having fireproof
seats won't help you in the event of a cockpit fire if you're clothes catch
on fire.
> In the military we fly in fireproof nomex flight suits. Theoretically
we're supposed to have the sleeves rolled down and nomex gloves on, with
ankle-high boots, a helmet, and an O2 mask. I.e. almost no skin exposed.
Now, some of this is overkill in a GA airplane, but if you want to be
fireproof, buy a nomex flight suit from military surplus. Flightsuits.com
is one supplier, although not the cheapest. They're available in other
colors besides standard military olive green and desert tan.
> If you don't go this far, all pilots and passengers should at least give
a thought to what they wear in the plane. Polyester and most synthetics
(like GoreTex or polypropylene or most of the other high-tech camping /
hiking stuff) will melt and fuse right onto your skin during a fire.
They'll have to anesthetize you heavily to get it off. Your best bet by far
(short of nomex) is to wear cotton clothing or some other natural fiber.
>
> Pedro
> (military jet navigator, trying to pass the knowledge along)
>
> Christopher J Fortin wrote:
>
> A quick search on the net produced this:
>
>
> Use of Decoration Materials In University Residence Halls
>
>
> The following is a flame-resistant formula:
> Borax: 7oz.
> Boric Acid: 3 oz.
> Hot Water: 2 quarts
>
> These materials can be purchased from a drug store. The material to be
> treated should be dipped in or sprayed with the solution. After
> treatment, check several small pieces of the material to assure
> flame-resistance. Re-apply if sample burns after initial test.
>
>
> Chris Fortin
> N813CJ reserved
>
> From: Gkb5577(at)aol.com
> Subject: RV-List: Re: Fire resistant seats
>
>
> There are foams that meet your criteria: ask Oregon Aero for their
> catalog
> (I've no financial ties to them)- I just got mine and it is full of a lot
> of
> interesting photos and info as well as difficult to find items. Prices
> are a
> little on the high side but they do have the research done. Does
> anyone know
>
> what the chemical is that you can spray on things that makes it fire
> resistant?
>
> It was discovered during the WWII .AO? Geoff
> writes:
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Ford" <dford(at)michweb.net> |
| Subject: | dipstick & tube--help |
I have an overhauled O360A1A that I just put its first 6 quarts of oil in. The
dipstick shows that it has 5 quarts in it. No oil has yet circulated through
the oil lines or filter. This core when received did not have a dipstick or
tube, I ordered a new tube #75767 from an engine shop. It is approx. 11 1/2" from
tip of tube to engine base. The dipstick was a used one from (supposedly)
an O360A1A 8 quart system (it is imprinted "8" on top). I don't know if I have
the wrong dipstick or tube, any suggestions?
Dave Ford
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <klwerner(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | LOE#3 / RV Fly-In |
Dear RV-Ators,
Just a quick PIREP on LOE #3:
I spent the sunny day today looking over all the RV's (& Rockets) that made it
to the 3rd. RV Land of Enchantment Fly-In in Las Cruces, New Mexico, USA.
The last count I heard (based on A/C registrations) was in excess of 180+ A/C's.
FINAL numbers are yet to be seen. That was truly a sight to be seen !!!
Konrad / ABQ, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: dipstick & tube--help |
Hi Dave,
You can search for the right stick of course as the first choice. The next
choice is to run it up briefly with the 6 quarts in it, let it stand a bit
and remark the stick add another quart remark again etc. There are ways to
pre-oil the system but a brief run will not hurt and it is sure to fill the
filter etc.
If the engine was on a tail dragger before and you have a tri gear the end
result should be quite accurate enough. Any thing below 5 quarts is not too
critical for marks on the stick if you plan to check the oil before and
after every flight. That is your plan isin't it.(;-)
Happy Flying
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Ford" <dford(at)michweb.net>
Subject: RV-List: dipstick & tube--help
>
> I have an overhauled O360A1A that I just put its first 6 quarts of oil in.
The dipstick shows that it has 5 quarts in it. No oil has yet circulated
through the oil lines or filter. This core when received did not have a
dipstick or tube, I ordered a new tube #75767 from an engine shop. It is
approx. 11 1/2" from tip of tube to engine base. The dipstick was a used
one from (supposedly) an O360A1A 8 quart system (it is imprinted "8" on
top). I don't know if I have the wrong dipstick or tube, any suggestions?
>
> Dave Ford
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: dipstick & tube--help |
Dave
It is common for an engine to require 1 to 2 extra quarts of oil on initial fill
up. There is a certain amount of oil which doesn't drain out of an engine when
you drain it for oil change. Leave the oil in it for now. Once you start it
up and run it, drain the oil and filter again. Refill with 6 quarts again, and
check the level. This will give you an accurate indication.
Charlie Kuss
>
>I have an overhauled O360A1A that I just put its first 6 quarts of oil in. The
dipstick shows that it has 5 quarts in it. No oil has yet circulated through
the oil lines or filter. This core when received did not have a dipstick or
tube, I ordered a new tube #75767 from an engine shop. It is approx. 11 1/2"
from tip of tube to engine base. The dipstick was a used one from (supposedly)
an O360A1A 8 quart system (it is imprinted "8" on top). I don't know if I have
the wrong dipstick or tube, any suggestions?
>
>Dave Ford
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: fire retardant |
> SNIP what the chemical is that you can spray on things that makes it fire
resistant? SNIP Vince
On page 123 of the ACS catalogue there is a product called Inspecta-Shield.
It claims to meet FAR standards. A quart at $15.40 will do 150 square feet.
Plenty for a couple of RVs.
This seems to meet the needs of people who wish to make their own seats
using quality commercial upholstery.
Anybody used . . . and tested this product.
Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop
90 plus % Complete - Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Henley" <henley(at)seii.net> |
| Subject: | Dynon-VOR Interference |
I recently flew my RV7 from Fl to Spokane and back and still love my Dynon D-10.
I do however have a problem that concerns me: the D-10 emits enough RFI to render
the VOR/LOC receiver inoperative unless within approx 7 miles of the station.
The VOR voice is nothing but static. Turning the D-10 off rectifies the
problem and the VOR will receive up to 100 NM away. I have a wingtip mounted VOR
antenna.
Dynon said they have had several complaints on this problem and are working on
it. I was wondering if anyone on the list has had a similar problem and fixed
it and if so how.
John Henley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Dynon-VOR Interference |
Do you have the external compass module? Is the lead going to it
shielded?
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Henley [mailto:henley(at)seii.net]
> Sent: Sunday, October 19, 2003 9:11 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Dynon-VOR Interference
>
>
>
> I recently flew my RV7 from Fl to Spokane and back and still
> love my Dynon D-10. I do however have a problem that concerns
> me: the D-10 emits enough RFI to render the VOR/LOC receiver
> inoperative unless within approx 7 miles of the station. The
> VOR voice is nothing but static. Turning the D-10 off
> rectifies the problem and the VOR will receive up to 100 NM
> away. I have a wingtip mounted VOR antenna.
>
> Dynon said they have had several complaints on this problem
> and are working on it. I was wondering if anyone on the list
> has had a similar problem and fixed it and if so how.
>
> John Henley
>
>
> ===========
> Matronics Forums.
> ===========
> ===========
> ===========
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Mader" <davemader(at)bresnan.net> |
| Subject: | RE: 0-360 A1F6 type engine |
I recently acquired an 0-360 A1F6D engine. This engine has the single-drive
duel mag set-up(not the H model 0-320). What I would like to do is ad
electronic ignition to one set of plugs for a more truly redundant system.
Lightspeed said that you can bolt up just one mag to the acces. case where
the duel mag set-up goes but they aren't sure if you need any different type
of gear combination to do this. My only other option is to use duel
electronic, but I would rather use the mag/electronic. Anybody else use or
hear of doing this?.....Thanks in advance
Dave Mader
2nd 6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Barnes" <meangreenrv4(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Checkered Tails |
The size of the checkers are most definitely is to the eye of the builder
but in my opinion I found that 3" checkers worked well for me on my RV 4
Tim Barnes
Meangreen RV4
>From: "Scott Brown" <scottbrown(at)precisionjet.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Checkered Tails
>Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 16:35:20 -0400
>
>
>Listers,
>
>For those that have decided to put a checkered rudder on there air 'chines,
>what is best size of checker to paint. I am thinking either 4" or 5"
>checkers, but not really sure. Can anyone shed some light on this? I have
>heard in the past that there is an optimal size that looks the best.
>
>Scott
>
>
Never get a busy signal because you are always connected with high-speed
Internet access. Click here to comparison-shop providers.
https://broadband.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Castellano" <tcastell(at)bestweb.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: 0-360 A1F6 type engine |
Check the archives.
I've done this and posted it to this list more than once.
Tony Castellano
tcastell(at)bestweb.net
Hopewell Junction, NY
RV-6
N401TC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Mader" <davemader(at)bresnan.net>
Subject: RV-List: RE: 0-360 A1F6 type engine
>
> I recently acquired an 0-360 A1F6D engine. This engine has the
single-drive
> duel mag set-up(not the H model 0-320). What I would like to do is ad
> electronic ignition to one set of plugs for a more truly redundant system.
> Lightspeed said that you can bolt up just one mag to the acces. case where
> the duel mag set-up goes but they aren't sure if you need any different
type
> of gear combination to do this. My only other option is to use duel
> electronic, but I would rather use the mag/electronic. Anybody else use
or
> hear of doing this?.....Thanks in advance
>
>
> Dave Mader
> 2nd 6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: 0-360 A1F6 type engine |
Why not use a flywheel pick-up for the electronic ignition and leave the
rear for the magneto??
Dave Mader wrote:
>
> I recently acquired an 0-360 A1F6D engine. This engine has the single-drive
> duel mag set-up(not the H model 0-320). What I would like to do is ad
> electronic ignition to one set of plugs for a more truly redundant system.
> Lightspeed said that you can bolt up just one mag to the acces. case where
> the duel mag set-up goes but they aren't sure if you need any different type
> of gear combination to do this. My only other option is to use duel
> electronic, but I would rather use the mag/electronic. Anybody else use or
> hear of doing this?.....Thanks in advance
>
>
> Dave Mader
> 2nd 6
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Fw: [Wing] First Flight |
This from North of the 49th parallel this morning.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Barry Tunzelmann" <kiwirv6(at)telus.net>
Subject: [Wing] First Flight
> Just to let you know that my RV-6 C-GZAX defied the forces of gravity at
> Josephburg on Saturday 18th. Weather was perfect with visibility at
> unlimited and winds virtually zero. Test pilot James Jesperson took her up
> for 35 minutes then we stripped the cowls did some checks and revised the
> spinner clearance as the prop rubbed lightly, most likely on the runup
prop
> cycle. No oil leaks. Then back together and I was at the controls with
some
> dual checking from James. As this is a new engine we saw some better
speeds
> on the second flight. At the moment I am running no gear leg fairings or
> wheel pants and am seeing 175mph IAS at 75% and have not verified the ASI
> with GPS. Overall it is exactly how I expected it and advice to the other
> buildes - don't give up, you will thouroughly enjoy the day you get there.
>
> Barry E Tunzelmann
> email: kiwirv6(at)telus.net
>
> _______________________________________________
> Wing mailing list
> Wing(at)vansairforce.org
> http://vansairforce.org/mailman/listinfo/wing
Jim in Kelowna
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Brame <charleyb(at)earthlink.net> |
Rick,
I am also interested in your center arm rest. Unfortunately, my ISP
(RoadRunner) is currently blocked from sending email to AOL
recipients,thus I can't send you a message back channel.
Do you have the photos on a web site? Or
Can you forward photos to me?
I would also be interested in some plans, rough, hand drawn, or otherwise.
Thanks,
Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB
San Antonio
----------------------
> From: RGray67968(at)aol.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Center arm rest length
> at.a.big.ISP(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Dana,
> I put a center console in my flying RV after seeing Mike's. I don't know how
> I ever flew without it and, it would surely be missed if I removed it
> tomorrow. Mine is all aluminum angle construction with .020 side skins and .032
> hinged
> top - padded and covered to match the interior. Great for storing items and
> in flight snacks, laying your seat belts across so they don't get mixed up,
> pilot/pass divider, and a good elbow support for throttle management during
> formation. Make yours as long OR short as YOU want to suit YOUR needs (heard
that
>
> before huh :
> ). I just sent you a couple pics of mine to give you something to
> go by.
> Rick Gray RV6 in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon-VOR Interference |
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: John Henley [mailto:henley(at)seii.net]
>>Sent: Sunday, October 19, 2003 9:11 AM
>>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: RV-List: Dynon-VOR Interference
>>
>>
>>
>>I recently flew my RV7 from Fl to Spokane and back and still
>>love my Dynon D-10. I do however have a problem that concerns
>>me: the D-10 emits enough RFI to render the VOR/LOC receiver
>>inoperative unless within approx 7 miles of the station. The
>>VOR voice is nothing but static. Turning the D-10 off
>>rectifies the problem and the VOR will receive up to 100 NM
>>away. I have a wingtip mounted VOR antenna.
>>
>>Dynon said they have had several complaints on this problem
>>and are working on it. I was wondering if anyone on the list
>>has had a similar problem and fixed it and if so how.
>>
>> John Henley
>>
Yes, I have been dealing with the EMI issue with the Dynon. Like you, I
am very impressed with the D-10, but the initial install was a bit
challenging. One problem had to do with a bad magnetometer and has been
successfully resolved. The other issue which is still present but now
very manageable, is the EMI emitted primarily via the EDC remote
magnetometer serial connection. I doubt that antenna location, radio
stack location and other such physical items are going to have much
impact on whether or not EMI is present in a particular Dynon installation.
It appears the EDC is transmitting considerable RFI back up to the D-10
via the EDC power feed. The noise then is passed along by the D-10 out
the main power and keep-alive feeds to the avionics bus. EMI is a very
strange and unpredictable animal that often flaunts logic. In my case,
the noise was very noticeable through the com radio, even to the point
of often breaking the squelch. But, it wasn't consistent; even though
always present, it varied depending on the frequency in use, the time
zone I was in, and what I had eaten earlier in the day. In other words,
there was little pattern to the madness. The nav side of the radio was
completely unaffected.
After some basic troubleshooting (disconnecting the EDC while the D-10
was running) it was determined that the EDC was indeed the culprit. Doug
at Dynon was working through the problem and suggested I power the EDC
via a different point on the avionics bus. That I did, and the noise was
drastically reduced. As a part of Dynon's troubleshooting, I also
installed some capacitors in the D-10 and the EDC and that lowered the
noise level a bit more.
Bottom line, at this point in time there is still a very low amplitude
noise in the my com radio which is only noticeable when receiving very
weak signals. The separate power feed for the EDC "solved" most of the
EMI problem. But the Dynon guys realize this is not a true solution
since now the remote mag is isolated from the back-up power features of
the D-10, and the EMI is still being generated. Also, the separate power
feed can create some weird issues when using the support program to
customize the EFIS. It is necessary to interrupt the power to the EDC
when the D-10 is rebooted or the support program can hang since the EDC
is still in a "Loader" mode.
I suspect there are many Dynon installations that have the noise issue
but the builder doesn't know because the source of the noise is buried
in the chaos of getting a new panel up and running and the builder is
chasing all sorts of shielding ideas trying to figure out where the
static is coming from. By the way, one of the first steps I took was to
replace the CAT-5 cable I was using for the remote mag with
four-conductor shielded cable, but that had no impact on the problem. I
also shielded the main EFIS power cable but that likewise had no impact.
So shielding does not seem to be the answer, and the EMI bug will affect
some installations and not others until Dynon gets a handle on the
problem. If nothing else, the remote mag can be disconnected and the
"problem" goes away (along with a *very* accurate heading indicator if
the mag installation is carefully done!).
In my opinion, this in no way should be a discouragement to buying a
Dyon EFIS. The unit works as advertised, and I am very confident the
Dynon crew will squash this bug and do what is right to rectify the
situation for those who find it necessary.
John, try the separate power feed for the EDC and your nav will probably
again be usable.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Henley" <henley(at)seii.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon-VOR Interference |
Larry,
I disconnected the ext compass module at the D-10 plug but even with
the compass module unpowered, the interference is still there. It is
unshielded.
John Henley
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Dynon-VOR Interference
>
> Do you have the external compass module? Is the lead going to it
> shielded?
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: John Henley [mailto:henley(at)seii.net]
> > Sent: Sunday, October 19, 2003 9:11 AM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV-List: Dynon-VOR Interference
> >
> >
> >
> > I recently flew my RV7 from Fl to Spokane and back and still
> > love my Dynon D-10. I do however have a problem that concerns
> > me: the D-10 emits enough RFI to render the VOR/LOC receiver
> > inoperative unless within approx 7 miles of the station. The
> > VOR voice is nothing but static. Turning the D-10 off
> > rectifies the problem and the VOR will receive up to 100 NM
> > away. I have a wingtip mounted VOR antenna.
> >
> > Dynon said they have had several complaints on this problem
> > and are working on it. I was wondering if anyone on the list
> > has had a similar problem and fixed it and if so how.
> >
> > John Henley
> >
> >
> > ===========
> > Matronics Forums.
> > ===========
> > ===========
> > ===========
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | flmike <flmike2001(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Dynon-VOR Interference |
Sounds like a job for some clamp-on ferrite filters.
One on the cable bundle connecting to the Dynon right
at the connector, and one at the compass module.
http://www.steward.com/web_parts.asp?line=EMC+%2F+EMI+&family=Ferrite+Cores+for+Cables+%2D++Wiring+Harnesses+%2D+Connectors&progroup=Round+and+Cylindrical+Cores&product=Broadband+Split+%2F+Snap%2Don+Ferrite+Cores+for+Round+Cables
Mike
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tracy Crook" <lors01(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Display readability in sunlight |
>
> I know this is off the original thread but, I have had nothing but trouble
> down loading and then transferring up dates into my ipac, in every
instance
> that I have tried to do it I have had to call for help. Is this just me
or
> have others had problems loading up dates too?
Nearly went nuts one day trying to do this when I finally noticed all the
'garbage' hung on the end of the downloaded file name. (From my feeble
memory), When the "Save As" window comes up, put the cursor on the file
name and delete all the crap after "filename.exe" then continue with the
download.
I have no idea why they made this necessary.
Tracy Crook
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
| Subject: | LOE 3 Formation Flights |
Just a big "Thanks" to the nine RV's that flew the formation flights at
LOE3. You added a lot to the event, and the precision of your flights was
really great. I don't have your names or I would thank you personally. You
folks did a GREAT job!!
John at Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Henley" <henley(at)seii.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon-VOR Interference |
Sam,
Thanks for the input. I will try your suggestion for separate power for
the EDC. I did try running the D-10 and the EDC off of a backup battery but
that did not help.
As a side note. I saw you come in at the Hartsell fly-in but didn't get
a chance to say hi as I was trying to beat some weather into getting home
but it didn't work. Went into the clouds over Crestview at 10,800 and broke
out at 400'. So much for another weather forecast. The Dynon performed like
a champ.
John Henley
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon-VOR Interference
>
>
> >>-----Original Message-----
> >>From: John Henley [mailto:henley(at)seii.net]
> >>Sent: Sunday, October 19, 2003 9:11 AM
> >>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >>Subject: RV-List: Dynon-VOR Interference
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>I recently flew my RV7 from Fl to Spokane and back and still
> >>love my Dynon D-10. I do however have a problem that concerns
> >>me: the D-10 emits enough RFI to render the VOR/LOC receiver
> >>inoperative unless within approx 7 miles of the station. The
> >>VOR voice is nothing but static. Turning the D-10 off
> >>rectifies the problem and the VOR will receive up to 100 NM
> >>away. I have a wingtip mounted VOR antenna.
> >>
> >>Dynon said they have had several complaints on this problem
> >>and are working on it. I was wondering if anyone on the list
> >>has had a similar problem and fixed it and if so how.
> >>
> >> John Henley
> >>
>
>
> Yes, I have been dealing with the EMI issue with the Dynon. Like you, I
> am very impressed with the D-10, but the initial install was a bit
> challenging. One problem had to do with a bad magnetometer and has been
> successfully resolved. The other issue which is still present but now
> very manageable, is the EMI emitted primarily via the EDC remote
> magnetometer serial connection. I doubt that antenna location, radio
> stack location and other such physical items are going to have much
> impact on whether or not EMI is present in a particular Dynon
installation.
>
> It appears the EDC is transmitting considerable RFI back up to the D-10
> via the EDC power feed. The noise then is passed along by the D-10 out
> the main power and keep-alive feeds to the avionics bus. EMI is a very
> strange and unpredictable animal that often flaunts logic. In my case,
> the noise was very noticeable through the com radio, even to the point
> of often breaking the squelch. But, it wasn't consistent; even though
> always present, it varied depending on the frequency in use, the time
> zone I was in, and what I had eaten earlier in the day. In other words,
> there was little pattern to the madness. The nav side of the radio was
> completely unaffected.
>
> After some basic troubleshooting (disconnecting the EDC while the D-10
> was running) it was determined that the EDC was indeed the culprit. Doug
> at Dynon was working through the problem and suggested I power the EDC
> via a different point on the avionics bus. That I did, and the noise was
> drastically reduced. As a part of Dynon's troubleshooting, I also
> installed some capacitors in the D-10 and the EDC and that lowered the
> noise level a bit more.
>
> Bottom line, at this point in time there is still a very low amplitude
> noise in the my com radio which is only noticeable when receiving very
> weak signals. The separate power feed for the EDC "solved" most of the
> EMI problem. But the Dynon guys realize this is not a true solution
> since now the remote mag is isolated from the back-up power features of
> the D-10, and the EMI is still being generated. Also, the separate power
> feed can create some weird issues when using the support program to
> customize the EFIS. It is necessary to interrupt the power to the EDC
> when the D-10 is rebooted or the support program can hang since the EDC
> is still in a "Loader" mode.
>
> I suspect there are many Dynon installations that have the noise issue
> but the builder doesn't know because the source of the noise is buried
> in the chaos of getting a new panel up and running and the builder is
> chasing all sorts of shielding ideas trying to figure out where the
> static is coming from. By the way, one of the first steps I took was to
> replace the CAT-5 cable I was using for the remote mag with
> four-conductor shielded cable, but that had no impact on the problem. I
> also shielded the main EFIS power cable but that likewise had no impact.
>
>
> So shielding does not seem to be the answer, and the EMI bug will affect
> some installations and not others until Dynon gets a handle on the
> problem. If nothing else, the remote mag can be disconnected and the
> "problem" goes away (along with a *very* accurate heading indicator if
> the mag installation is carefully done!).
>
> In my opinion, this in no way should be a discouragement to buying a
> Dyon EFIS. The unit works as advertised, and I am very confident the
> Dynon crew will squash this bug and do what is right to rectify the
> situation for those who find it necessary.
>
> John, try the separate power feed for the EDC and your nav will probably
> again be usable.
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: LOE 3 Formation Flights. Me Too. |
| From: | Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net> |
John I don't either but I recognized Stu McCurdy's fearless voice giving the
instructions to Falcon Flight. I believe he was augmented by the inimitable
So Cal group. It was a great display of precision, and to really show his
talent, the normal traffic was able to continue to land and take off without
any inconvenience that I noticed.
To sum it up, not just a great show but quite a display of professional
airmanship, consideration, and safe flight.
Way to go Stu, and all the others. My hat is off to you.
P. s. I couldn't believe my eyes but when they landed I saw they had a
Mascot!! An animal painted up to look like a Thorpe T-18! Sooo I guess
technically it was only eight RVs + the Thorpe who also did a great job, no
kidding.
PPS the fly in was a huge success. My estimate was well over 200, but very
hard to count. There must have been 300 plus at the banquet.
PPPs. Great Kudos to Red and all the folks at Adventure Aviation, who
really came through for us. Be sure and give them all the business you can,
folks.
> From: "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com>
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2003 15:17:54 -0600
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: LOE 3 Formation Flights
>
>
> Just a big "Thanks" to the nine RV's that flew the formation flights at
> LOE3. You added a lot to the event, and the precision of your flights was
> really great. I don't have your names or I would thank you personally. You
> folks did a GREAT job!!
>
> John at Salida, CO
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RGray67968(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Ohio Valley RVer's |
To ALL the RV fliers, builders, and dreamers in/near the Ohio
Valley.........we are in the process of starting NEW RV WING here in the Ohio Valley
and have
just created a new Yahoo group called the Ohio Valley RVators. Our hopes are
that this will enable us to meet LOTS more RVer's for lunch on the weekends,
help folks with their RV projects, and enable builders to checkout the 'real'
thing (and RIDE in 'em) at our get togethers throughout the Ohio Valley.
Here's a link to our NEW Yahoo Discussion Group:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/OhioValleyRVators/
According to Dan Checkoway's RV Finder we have about 80 flying RV's in the
area and the RV White Pages tell us that we have TONS of builders. Don't miss
out on the fun......Yup.........it's RV heaven!!!
Rick Gray RV6 in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Mader" <davemader(at)bresnan.net> |
| Subject: | RE: 0-360 A1F6 type engine |
Gert
The flywheel is fine for the electronic part of the ignition. An 0-360
A1F6D has a 30 lb. appendage bolted to the accessory case which houses both
mags. I would like to use a single, new, slick mag, and bolt it in the
accessory spot designated for the dual set-up.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Gert
Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: 0-360 A1F6 type engine
Why not use a flywheel pick-up for the electronic ignition and leave the
rear for the magneto??
Dave Mader wrote:
>
> I recently acquired an 0-360 A1F6D engine. This engine has the
single-drive
> duel mag set-up(not the H model 0-320). What I would like to do is ad
> electronic ignition to one set of plugs for a more truly redundant system.
> Lightspeed said that you can bolt up just one mag to the acces. case where
> the duel mag set-up goes but they aren't sure if you need any different
type
> of gear combination to do this. My only other option is to use duel
> electronic, but I would rather use the mag/electronic. Anybody else use
or
> hear of doing this?.....Thanks in advance
>
>
> Dave Mader
> 2nd 6
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)warpdriveonline.com> |
Listers:
For anyone who is interested. I have a few pictures and comments on the
LOE3 Las Cruces fly-in at:
http://n5lp.net/LOE3.htm
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://n5lp.net
________________________________________________________________________________
Larry thanks for the pictures! It's always great to see home!
Bob Hassel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry Pardue
Subject: RV-List: LOE3
Listers:
For anyone who is interested. I have a few pictures and comments on the
LOE3 Las Cruces fly-in at:
http://n5lp.net/LOE3.htm
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://n5lp.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
>Listers:
>
>For anyone who is interested. I have a few pictures and comments on the
>LOE3 Las Cruces fly-in at:
>
>http://n5lp.net/LOE3.htm
>
>Larry Pardue
>Carlsbad, NM
>
Great job, Larry! It was a truly groovy event, as it always is. Your new
Brompton bike was a total class act too. Debbie insists we get one, or two,
for the RV10. You must have put on some serious mileage.
Red, Doug and the entire staff at the FBO handled an obviously overwhelming
flow of RV'ers this weekend in a truly professional manner. I noted no
major safety issues, hassles or frays in any form. Simply show up, tie
down, and wait for the beer truck to pull up!! No kidding here folks, I had
no sooner tied down and deplaned and here comes the brew...keg style, in the
back of a pickup. Lets see the EAA top THAT act.
The banquet was great too, but I think the catering folks were a bit freaked
out at the turnout. All got fed from what I could see, but not much was
left over. Red did his usual bangup job of reminding all of us how
fortunate we are to build and fly these magic carpets of ours. He mentioned
some interesting numbers from the recent aircraft manufacturers association
annual report....regarding total production of various GA aircraft. Van's
blew them all away. Okay okay, so Pipercessnabeech planes are already built
for you, but where's the fun in that?
I was most fortunate in getting a ride in the -10 with Ken K. as master of
ceremonies in the left seat, and Laird "fowling piece" Owens riding shotgun
behind me. (Someone had to analyze the beer cooler size capacity of the
aircraft while in flight.) Suffice it to say that this airplane is pure RV
to the bone, with gentlemanly manners applied in all the right places to
make touring a truly pleasant experience. The advertised numbers are for
real, folks. We climbed out with three aboard in southern New Mexican heat
at 100mph, with somewhere around 1300fpm on the gauge. Cruise trim showed
167kts groundspeed in a very calm atmosphere. This was around 24 square, I
believe. Stalls are a non-event. You'd have to be already braindead to
miss the cues. Landing is a breeze...trim it, set power, and groove down
the centerline. Whatta plane! I have to admit to a very strange sensation
when the speed bled off after mains touchdown....WHERE'S THE $%$&@$
TAILWHEEL?!?!?!! Oh....don't have one on this airplane. Duh! I was in my
usual happy feet mode, ready to pounce on a pending ground loop before it
could get ugly, but it's just not necessary with the train...uh...NOSEwheel
up front.
Again, my kudos to the organizers of LOE3. It just doesn't get any better.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
350 hrs.
RV10 40051 untold hours to first flight.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov> |
| Subject: | Circular polarization (was: Display readability in sunlight) |
The best way to reduce the effect of reflected light on a display is the
use of a circular polarizing filter. Such as:
http://www.edmundoptics.com/IOD/DisplayProduct.cfm?Productid=1299
This trick greatly helped the readability of "nixie" tube style numerical
displays, way back when.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov> |
| Subject: | VERY Compact Position Light / Landing Light Combo |
I designed and built these custom LED position lights for a LancAir owner.
He wanted to put LED position lights AND CreativAir landing lights in the
stock wingtip of a LancAir IV.
These are the smallest sheared tips imaginable. I wasn't sure it was
possible. After a few design iterations, however, I managed to cram it all
in. Here are some pictures of the port side unit.
http://www.killacycle.com/LAir1s.JPG
http://www.killacycle.com/LAir2s.JPG
http://www.killacycle.com/LAir3s.JPG
http://www.killacycle.com/LAir4s.JPG
The production design of the CreativAir combo light will strongly resemble
this custom LancAir light. However, the regulator board will be pin type
components, rather than surface-mount type components for ease of assembly
in a kit. (You have to be a Swiss watch maker to hand assemble the
surface-mount components.)
The CreativAir production units will have the hole pre-drilled, including
the center hole for the landing light, but will leave the area surrounding
the light untrimmed. This will allow the user to shape the board to fit
their particular wingtip.
If you want to, you could paint the face of the board to match your
airplane before you install the LEDs. Of course, you would have to use
non-conductive paint. Thus, no metallics.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
vansairforce
Good morning all...
Just thought I would let you know that I posted some pix from my flight down to
LOE and back...
http://www.vondane.com/rv8a/flying/loe3/index.htm
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Circular polarization (was: Display readability in sunlight) |
Bill Dube wrote:
>
> The best way to reduce the effect of reflected light on a display is the
> use of a circular polarizing filter. Such as:
>
> http://www.edmundoptics.com/IOD/DisplayProduct.cfm?Productid=1299
>
> This trick greatly helped the readability of "nixie" tube style numerical
> displays, way back when.
>
Just for clarification and to hopefully prevent this topic from growing
beyond the actual problem, the display difficulty I mentioned is only
present when *direct* sunlight is falling on the display. If the
sunlight is filtered any by clouds/haze, or if the display is shaded to
any extent by the overhand of the panel glareshield, the display is very
readable.
Sam Buchanan (very satisfied EZ-Pilot customer)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Yeah, I'm out here snooping around, being somewhat jealous that I had to
work this weekend rather than going to LOE. But on the upside I did get to
work at an airshow, MCAS Miramar - Blue Angels, Sean Tucker, and Patty. They
sure are fun to watch. Its also amazing to me how much more intense the show
becomes as I have started to learn a few aerobatic manuvers. Damm, I'm such
a neophyte...
RE RMI, I haven't noticed it. I also haven't noticed a significant
degridation in VOR/LOC performance either, but I haven't really tested for
this. I normally don't use my VOR much as the GPS does a much better job. I
did shoot the LOC approach at SEE on it the other day, with the Dynon on and
it zipped right down the pipe.
That said, I have the INS422 by VAL and it doesn't seem to have real good
range. I've tried it with several types of antennas including RAMIs and Bob
Archer tip types. Its OK out to about 35nm and then gets very poor unless
I'm way up there near the sky Gods. I've never done much about this as the
GPS works so much better.
Whenever I get to affording the GNC 430 I'll get more serious about this
function and figure out if its the antennas, cables, connectors or the unit.
The INS422 is a good unit as it has all the basics, so it will become the
second vor/ils once I win the lottery and pony up to the Garmin.
I did get the AlTrak Alt Hold installed this weekend but only flew it for a
few minutes. It seems to work nicely though in spite of the fact that the
installation in a 6 slider will tie your hemorroids into knots. There is
just no easy way to hangout in the tail cone of a 6.
I did try to answer my question about dropping out of althold after changing
speed via changing throttle setting. I only changed it by about 20 kts and
popped it out. The stick did move quickly but not very far; it wasn't much
in terms of G force. I'll try to map this out some for some various speed
changes, but I don't think its going to be a problem unless one really
pushes this.
No matter what though the key to this for me is going to be procedural. Alt
hold needs to be the last to engage, and the first to disengage with respect
to transitioning into and out of any cruise altitude.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Checkered Tails |
The trick I used to find the size I liked was to put a bunch of 3" post-it notes
in a checker pattern. I thought they looked a little small on the -8 so I taped
off 3.5" and like the look.
Alan Kritzman
RV-8 96 hours
The size of the checkers are most definitely is to the eye of the builder
but in my opinion I found that 3" checkers worked well for me on my RV 4
Tim Barnes
Meangreen RV4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Stuart B McCurdy <sturdy(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | LOE 3 Formation Flights |
John and Denis,
Thanks for the comments about the LOE3 formation flights. We enjoyed
doing it. A formation is only as good as the pilots in it, so here's
the lineup so they can receive the deserved credit.
Lead: Stu (STURDY) McCurdy, RV-8, Round Rock, TX, Falcon Flight
#2: Lowell LeMay, RV-4, Austin, TX, Falcon Flight
#3: Seth Hancock, RV-6, Georgetown, TX, Falcon Flight
#4: Jim (NOMAD) Lawrence, RV-8, Marietta, GA, Team RV Eagles
#5: Johnny (RASCAL) White, RV-8, Auburn, AL, AL Guard
#6: Paul (ROSIE) Rosales, RV-6A, Lancaster, CA, SoCal Formation
#7: Gary Sobek, RV-6, Manhatten Beach, CA, SoCal Formation
#8: Glenn Smith, RV-8, Henderson, NV
#9: Jim (CUBES) Grahn, T-18, Nellis AFB, NV
It also demonstrates that the FFI formation evaluation and card produces
disciplined and proficient formation pilots who can come together from
around the country and fly formation, having never flown with one
another, when well briefed.
Stu McCurdy
Subject: Re: RV-List: LOE 3 Formation Flights. Me Too.
From: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net>
John I don't either but I recognized Stu McCurdy's fearless voice giving
the instructions to Falcon Flight. I believe he was augmented by the
inimitable So Cal group. It was a great display of precision, and to
really show his talent, the normal traffic was able to continue to land
and take off without any inconvenience that I noticed.
To sum it up, not just a great show but quite a display of professional
airmanship, consideration, and safe flight.
Way to go Stu, and all the others. My hat is off to you.
P. s. I couldn't believe my eyes but when they landed I saw they had a
Mascot!! An animal painted up to look like a Thorpe T-18! Sooo I
guess technically it was only eight RVs + the Thorpe who also did a
great job, no kidding.
PPS the fly in was a huge success. My estimate was well over 200, but
very hard to count. There must have been 300 plus at the banquet.
PPPs. Great Kudos to Red and all the folks at Adventure Aviation, who
really came through for us. Be sure and give them all the business you
can, folks.
> From: "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com>
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2003 15:17:54 -0600
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: LOE 3 Formation Flights
>
>
> Just a big "Thanks" to the nine RV's that flew the formation flights at > LOE3.
You added a lot to the event, and the precision of your flights was > really
great. I don't have your names or I would thank you personally. You folks did
a GREAT job!!
>
> John at Salida, CO
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
>
>>Listers:
>>
>>For anyone who is interested. I have a few pictures and comments on the
>>LOE3 Las Cruces fly-in at:
>>
>>http://n5lp.net/LOE3.htm
>>
>>Larry Pardue
>>Carlsbad, NM
>>
>Great job, Larry! It was a truly groovy event, as it always is. Your new
good stuff snipped
>I was most fortunate in getting a ride in the -10 with Ken K. as master of
>ceremonies in the left seat, and Laird "fowling piece" Owens riding shotgun
>behind me. (Someone had to analyze the beer cooler size capacity of the
>aircraft while in flight.)
BTW, the 10 has PLENTY of room in the back for the beer cooler ;-)
>Again, my kudos to the organizers of LOE3. It just doesn't get any better.
>
>Brian Denk
>RV8 N94BD
>350 hrs.
>RV10 40051 untold hours to first flight.
I've got to add my thoughts as well. This was my 3rd year there and
it's better every year (even though my RV got T-P'ed AGAIN!...) I
had a great time and echo Brian's and Larry's comments.
This is WAY better than any other event I attend every year. Thanks
for all the great RV people who make flying an RV fun.
Laird
RV-6 SoCal
PS I hope Deb's all better now about me getting "her" ride in the back!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
Could anyone share freqs that have experienced a problem so I can check this
out on my airplane, I must admit my VOR doesn't get much use except when
IFR so I would hate to learn that I had a problem joining the
Localizer......
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
>
> RE RMI, I haven't noticed it. I also haven't noticed a significant
> degridation in VOR/LOC performance either, but I haven't really tested for
> this. I normally don't use my VOR much as the GPS does a much better job.
I
> did shoot the LOC approach at SEE on it the other day, with the Dynon on
and
> it zipped right down the pipe.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R. Craig Chipley" <mechtech81(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Looking for Rick Galati |
Rick, Can you please email me? I live in
Wentzville,MO. I know you are on the hangar waiting
list at KSET. There is a hangar available at M71
(Greensfield) that is close. I am in need of a partner
though. This is a larger hangar. This airport used to
be turf but is in the process of being paved. iF
interested please let me know.
Craig Chipley
Mechtech81(at)yahoo.com
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FW: RV6/7 fuselage jig available Seattle area |
| From: | "Bower, Bob" <Bob.Bower(at)hdrinc.com> |
Free to anyone who can transport it. Constructed of Trus-Joists and dimensional
lumber, glued and screwed together. Adjustable screw feet.
Contact Bob at 425-450-6215 (days).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Newman" <newmanb(at)rocketmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 vs. Bonanza ref. LOE3 |
I agree, and the RV-10's rear legroom is almost too generous, if such a thing
is possible. But the baggage space is less than the Bonanza/Debonair (too
little for a 4 seat touring machine IMO), and it carries an hour's less fuel.
Best Regards,
Bob
From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV-10 vs. Bonanza ref. LOE3
Send reply to: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Great pics Larry of LOE3!! Just as a side note, I own a Bonanza and had the
> chance to sit in the 10 at Oshkosh. Trust me, the 10 has more interior
> room........both front seats and rear seats.......than a Bonanza.
>
> BTW, the Bonanza is for sale;)
>
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY
> RV-7 slider/fuselage, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Bob
newmanb(at)rocketmail.com
newmanb(at)rocketmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lyle Peterson" <lyleap(at)access4less.net> |
| Subject: | An assist in Burmingham |
Is anyone on the list in Burmingham, AL or Leeds, AL? If so would you
contact me off list please?
Thank you,
Lyle Peterson
lyleap(at)access4less.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 0-360 A1F6 type engine |
I recently acquired an 0-360 A1F6D engine. This engine has the
single-drive duel mag set-up(not the H model 0-320). What I would like
to do is add electronic ignition to one set of plugs for a more truly
redundant system.
Lightspeed said that you can bolt up just one mag to the acces.
case where the duel mag set-up goes but they aren't sure if you need any
different type of gear combination to do this. My only other option is
to use duel electronic, but I would rather use the mag/electronic.
Anybody else use or hear of doing this?.....Thanks in advance
Dave Mader
2nd 6
Dave,
I contacted Bendix about this and received the attached email back. I
chose to go with the first method, keeping the drive gear.
Jim Bean
RV-8 still building.
Hello, Jim--
Wes has described the swap-out you're looking to do.
You have some choices to make. Here goes: The drive engagement for the four
cylinder dual magneto is different than for any production single magneto.
So either you're going to keep the new magneto 'stock' and install a
different gear than you are using now, or you're going to buy a single
magneto & some parts, modify that mag, and use the same engine drive gear
as is currently installed.
The IO-360-A1B6D is substantially similar to the IO-360-A1B6, except for
the magnetos and associated drive gears. I urge you to study the parts
catalogs for each & to ask Lycoming about this.
The IO-360-A1B6D uses a D-3000 magneto , and a drive gear that allows the
center of the magneto shaft to protrude through. The gear is not clamped to
the magneto shaft, it slides on with rubber drive biscuits. To keep this
gear, use a S4LN-1227 magneto, p/n 10-349365-3 (Rebuilt: BL-349365-3) and
modify as follows: Remove cotter pin, nut, lockwasher, bushing, woodruff
hey, washer, and impulse coupling. Carefully separate impulse cam assembly
from impulse coupling. Obtain 10-70371 Impulse Body, 10-51324 spring,
10-163048 bushing and 10-116860 washer. Assemble impulse cam assembly,
spring & body together per service manual. Install impulse coupling, washer
10-116860, woodruff key, 10-163048 bushing nut and cotter pin. The shape of
the S-1200 drive will now be very similar to the D-3000. Install the mag to
the engine per Lycoming timing instructions. You'll need a harness half.
TCM only sells whole harnesses. Unison harness half p/n M2642 is for the L
mag, for S-1200, 3/4-20 plugs on the IO-360-A1B6.
Although tempting, don't salvage the impulse coupling or impulse body from
the Dual mag: Because stop pin placement is so different, these parts will
not interchange and work properly on the S-1200. The washer and bushing can
be salvaged from the D-3000, however.
The other way to go is to obtain a S4LN-1227 magneto, p/n 10-349365-3
(Rebuilt: BL-349365-3) and the Left mag drive gear from an IO-360-A1B6.
Install the gear on the mag, mag on the engine, harness as above, and off
you go. Sounds simple, but the gear may be spendy, and there may be special
spacers required. Check that parts catalog, as I said, and study the
differences.
Best of luck--
TD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RGray67968(at)aol.com |
(0.6 points),
at a big ISP
For the archives.
Wow....1 reply to the list and I got a TON of requests for pics of my RV6
center console. Easiest to reply here:
You can see some pics of my console on the new Ohio Valley RVators Yahoo
Group site. They're in the 'photos' section under 'Center Console' (you may have
to 'join' to see the photos):
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/OhioValleyRVators/
I made a skeleton out of 3/4 X 3/4 aluminum angle and skinned it with .020 on
the sides and .032 for the padded/hinged lid. It's secured by 3 platenuts to
the (angled) vertical brace in the back and 3 platenuts to the seat pans on
the bottom. Very light and even 250# 'Bubba' could jump up and down on it - also
BIG TIME robust from side to side. Idea came from my good buddy Mike Stewart
- see pics of his on his website at:
http://www.mstewart.net/michael/rv/finishing/interior/interior.htm
I made mine a little wider than Mikes' so it would hold a 20oz pop bottle.
Make yours to suit your needs.
Also I'll mention that before making mine I purchased a wood one for about 30
bucks from Roger at 'Turtlewood Designs' advertised on Doug Reeves Website.
If you want one "right now" Roger will ship you a nice one that you can
'finish'. His was a little narrow for my needs so I sent it back (no questions
asked
- great guy) and had a ball making my own!! All builders have enough 'scrap'
laying around to easily make their own......and can make one start to finish
(including fabric) in about 8-10 hours of Pure Pleasure :
). You can see Rogers'
consoles here:
http://http://www.vansairforce.net/turtlewooddesign/roger.htm
Rick Gray RV6 with the center console in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David R. Cook" <davercook(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6 Jig Available |
Listers
Anybody interested in a wood jig for RV-6. Available now in Englewood Fl.Free for
the asking. If no response soon will go to the Jig heaven (trash).
Well seasoned ,second aircraft built on it.
Reply Dave Cook
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Source for BNC adapters? |
Bob or anyone: Does anyone know of a source for the type of BNC adapter
that Garmin uses in their new transponders and nav/com units (other than
direct from Garmin that is). These are the type that install in the chassis with
a
snap ring and have a plug in socket on the inside to mate with the unit and a
BNC jack on the outside.
I want to replace the solder type antenna coax snap ring adapters that came
with my KX-125. I called John Stark, but he said he has been looking for them
also with no success so far.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, firewall forward
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fw: flying humor Not RV related |
>>Wasn't that two 747, the worst aviation accident in history?
That wasn't Qantas. The two 747s involved were in a runway collision in
dense fog in Tenerife (Canary Islands)when a KLM 747 Made a runway incursion
as a Pan-AM one was rolling down the runway on take off. it was barely
airborne when it slammed into the KLM.
Cheers!!--Henry Hore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | terence.gannon(at)telus.net |
I'm trying to get in touch with Nigel Marshall, and RV-4 builder near Paris,
France. If you're still on this list, please contact me, off list...thanx!!
Terry in Calgary
RV-6 S/N 24414
"Fuselage"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Jig Available |
Dave,
If you have no takers, it will make a good table. Just cut the side beams
behind the F606 cross-member and put the rear legs there and cover it with a
sheet of ply-wood.-Voila!
Cheers!! Henry Hore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kip Haas" <kiphaas(at)firstam.com> |
I have an RV-7 QB for sale (delivered in July), It includes a tail kit that has
been drilled, dimpled and deburred, but not rivited. It also includes a partial
RV-8 tail. The QB is in a hanger in Corona, Ca. I am moving out of state and
I do not have a place for the plane. Please email me with your offers.
Thanks,
-Kip
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Spinner Cutout Template |
vansairforce
Anyone know where I can get a Hartzell Spinner Cutout template?
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
| Subject: | Plane bench from Fuselage Jig |
Hello,
For those of you who, like me, haven't been blessed with the jigless kits, don't
be so hasty to get rid of your jig. I
used the lumber from mine to construct a long bench about stool height to go along
side of the fuselage so that with the
plane mounted on saw horses or on the axles and wheels, I can still work on the
inside of the cockpit at the recommended
'navel' height.
The parts from my RV-8 jig are enough to do two benches (I only made one). Also,
when the plane is done, you can continue
to use it for those times when you need to do something in the cockpit besides
fly.
Unfortunately, my wife was so impressed that mine will going on the deck.
Regards,
Vince Himsl
RV8-SB Finish
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: flying humor Not RV related |
> That wasn't Qantas. The two 747s involved were in a runway collision in
> dense fog in Tenerife (Canary Islands)when a KLM 747 Made a runway incursion
> as a Pan-AM one was rolling down the runway on take off. it was barely
> airborne when it slammed into the KLM.
It was the other way around: KLM on the roll and Pan-Am taxiing. KLM was not
cleared for take-off. Pan-Am was cleared to taxi down the runway. There was
no runway incursion, it was an unauthorized take-off.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Brumbelow <csbrumbelow(at)fedex.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Spinner Cutout Template |
Bill - email me back your address and I will send you one. The starting point
was what Eustace Bowhay sent me (so thanks to him for making it easy for me
and now you). I have the "new" Hartzell prop from Vans, and while the tips are
different, I am guessing the blades are not much if any different at the
spinner end.
I think what I have will get you close, but please be forwarned that you will
still need to do some final fit work, and more importantly, you may desire
clearances that are different than mine. What I will be sending is a
representation of pretty much the "final" fit as I took a tracing of the
openings after I was satisfied with the fit.
csb
Bill VonDane wrote:
>
> Anyone know where I can get a Hartzell Spinner Cutout template?
>
> -Bill VonDane
> RV-8A
> www.vondane.com
> www.creativair.com
> www.epanelbuilder.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dwight Frye <dwight(at)openweave.org> |
| Subject: | RV7 Tank to Leading Edge Fit Question |
It may be that I'm being too picky here, but I want input on a tank to
leading edge fit issue I've run into. On the right side the fit is
absolutely perfect. On the left side I have a small difference between
the forward-most part of the skin on the tank and the forward-most
part of the skin on the leading edge.
The difference is about the thickness of the tank skin, so maybe I am
being too picky, but I wanted to hear what folks had to say about the
issue. If you look at http://www.openweave.org/RV7/showissue.php you
can see a web page with pictures of the situation. There are two pictures
there .. one showing the general area of concern, and the other showing
a closeup of the skins and the "gap" I'm seeing.
I did check with Van's and they said that _maybe_ a shim was called
for to bump up the leading edge skin a bit, but even then seemed to
think that it wasn't a big deal.
Anyone have any advice here? Or should I just press on and not worry
about it? Enquiring minds want to know. :)
-- Dwight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net> |
Kip,
I sent your e-mail to my partner and here is his questions.
is that a complete QB rv7 ? with finishing kit also? i have a cessna 140
with zero timed eng, by magnum engines of ohio. painted in L-19 colors
with army markings. it has 720 com, garmin gps. txp. mode c , 800-6 new
tires , and tubes. new stainless brake lines slick mags. it is a trouble
free plane that you can fly 2000 hrs with little expense. you can see the
plane on trade a plane. im asking 25000 or trade for complete rv kit.
thank you
Noel / Gary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kip Haas
Subject: RV-List: RV-7 QB
I have an RV-7 QB for sale (delivered in July), It includes a tail kit that
has been drilled, dimpled and deburred, but not rivited. It also includes a
partial RV-8 tail. The QB is in a hanger in Corona, Ca. I am moving out of
state and I do not have a place for the plane. Please email me with your
offers.
Thanks,
-Kip
________________________________________________________________________________
rv-list(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | B&C regulator for sale |
| From: | Bob Bittner <rbittner(at)us.ibm.com> |
10/21/2003 08:10:23 PM,
Serialize complete at 10/21/2003 08:10:23 PM
Hi all.
I ordered a B&C LR-3 14V alternator controller / OV protection, but I'm
going to use an internally regulated alternator instead. It's still
new-in-box, unopened condition. I could send it back to Aircraft Spruce,
but I thought I might just as well see if anyone here wants it. I can
ship it to you without sales tax or shipping charge (pay via PayPal) and
probably a bit sooner... otherwise, I'll just send it back to AS.
Bob B
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RendezVous Reminder! |
EVENT: SoCAL RV RendezVous
DATE: Saturday, Nov. 1, 2003
TIME: 9am to 4pm
LOCATION: Cable Airport (KCCB), Upland, CA (http://www.cableairport.com)
FLY-IN PROCEDURES:
Cable Airport is a family-owned, RV-friendly airport with easy VFR access
from the northwest and northeast (north of Ontario) as well as relatively easy
access from the south and southwest past Corona and west of the Chino and
Brackett Airports. Be sure to contact the Chino and Brackett towers for permission
to fly through their airspace if you so chose. Please comply with all
airspace restrictions and steer-clear of Ontario's airspace unless you're talking
to
ATC. We definitely want to have a violation-free day and maintain good
relations with all air traffic control facilities/personnel.
Note: A moving map GPS with airspace boundary depiction is highly
recommended.
SoCAL airspace permits good VFR access, but you do need to know exactly where
and how high you are relative to controlled airspace. Also, please keep a
wary eye out for airborne traffic. The traffic is not as thick as popularly
rumored, but SoCAL is a nice place to fly for all, and many RVs will be flying
into Cable as well.
Cable is an uncontrolled airport but does have published recommended VFR
arrival and departure procedures which you should review (see Cable's website and
your flight guide). Also, please be neighbor-friendly by keeping noise down.
VFR arrival and departure procedures for Cable airport can be found at
http://www.cableairport.com/images/vfr24.gif for runway 24 (most likely runway with
prevailing winds from the west) and at
http://www.cableairport.com/images/vfr6.gif for runway 6.
Please note that the Cable traffic pattern is left turns only - - No
straight-ins or outs! No formation takeoffs, No buzz jobs, No fooling around!
Flybys
are restricted to pattern altitude, and flyby aircraft must yield to any
aircraft in the standard traffic pattern. Be particularly watchful for crosswind
approach traffic!
PLEASE NO LOW FLYBYS!
All FARs must be observed. An FAA representative who is also building an RV
will be on the airport and could potentially issue violations for unsafe
actions. If you wish to do a flyby, please remain at pattern altitude and watch
carefully for traffic.
After landing, you will exit off the runway to the NORTH side of the runway
then taxi WEST. As you taxi westbound, please look for our RV RendezVous taxi
and parking guides - - they'll have vests, wands, etc. and will help direct
you to the next available parking spot.
Please bring your own wheel chocks as we will be parking RVs on the old
crosswind runway/taxiway that has a slight slope. Non-RV aircraft will be parked
parallel to and facing the active runway near the RV parking. Tie-down chains
are available for those aircraft parking along the runway.
FORMATION FLYING:
If you are interested in formation flying (who isn't?), please contact Gary
Sobek for further information and coordination: RV6_Flyer(at)hotmail.com. You
must be a qualified, experienced RV formation flyer and comply with all Cable
Airport flight procedures/restrictions as well as FAA regulations.
WEATHER ALTERNATES:
In the unlikely event that Cable Airport is not sunny and clear on the
morning of Nov. 1 as usual, our VFR weather alternates are: #1 Agua Dulce Airpark
(L70) and #2: Apple Valley (KAPV). Both Agua Dulce and Apple Valley are well
equipped with ramp space, food, and avgas to handle lots of fly-ins.
If Cable is IFR, Paul and Victoria Rosales (cell 661 433-6056) will be at
Agua Dulce to greet arrivals there. Paul and Victoria will be in contact with
the RendezVous crew at Cable to get the latest weather information. We don't
plan to have anyone stationed at Apple Valley, but Paul and Victoria will fly
there if Agua Dulce is socked in (which only happens "once in a blue moon!").
NOTE: All drive-ins should proceed to Cable Airport, because we will have
Cable-stationed RVs on-hand regardless of weather.
DRIVE-IN DIRECTIONS:
Ground-bound RV enthusiasts, particularly RV builders and potential builders,
are encouraged to attend! Cable Airport is located north of the I-10 freeway
in Upland, CA. Take I-10's Central Avenue exit NORTH past Montclair Plaza.
At the end of Central Ave. (1.3 miles from I-10) turn RIGHT (EAST) on Foothill
Blvd. (Historic Route 66). (There's a traffic light there.) Travel EAST on
Foothill to the next traffic light. Turn LEFT (NORTH) at the light onto
Benson Ave. (There's a "76" Gasoline/Car Wash Plaza on the left, and on the right
you'll see a Carl's Jr. and an "Old-Style" McDonald's across the
intersection.)
Continue NORTH on Benson Ave. past the Lowe's on your left and PAST the main
entrance to Cable Airport at the 13TH Street (first) traffic light. Continue
PAST the second traffic light and you should see a Fire Station on the right.
After you pass the Fire Station (the runway will be on your left), you will
make a LEFT (WEST) turn at the next opportunity (Howard Access Road) onto Cable
Airport.
There is a sign that says "Holliday Rock Quarry" at this entrance. Drive
through the gate onto the airport. Continue WEST via the taxiway between the
hangars and keep your speed down to 5 mph or less.
AIRCRAFT HAVE THE RIGHT OF WAY!
Give way to aircraft by pulling over to the right and stopping until the
aircraft passes. Also, be careful to slow down before any open hangar to make
sure that aircraft, people, or vehicles are not exiting the hangar. At the end
of the row of hangars, you will be directed to parking. Look for the SoCAL RV
signs and our RendezVous parking guides.
OVERNIGHT STAY:
If you are flying in from a distance and plan to stay Friday and/or Saturday
night, we would recommend the Western Inn located at 1191 East Foothill Blvd.,
Upland, CA approximately 4 to 5 miles from Cable. Their web address is
http://www.venquest.com/westerninnupland. The Western Inn is clean and accessible
with restaurants nearby. The Western Inn has a "Cable Airport" discount of
$59 for a single king or two queen beds and $69-$79 for more upscale
accommodations. These are excellent prices for the Southern California area.
The Western Inn's reservation phone number is 800-726-2955 (Internet Hotel
Hotline), and their local number is 909-949-4800. Reservations can also be made
directly through Western Inn's website. The Western Inn does not have Cable
Airport pickup, but our SoCAL group might be able to provide complimentary
ground transportation for you. Please contact Bill Palmer at wmpalm(at)aol.com as
soon as possible to request complimentary transportation between Cable Airport
and the Western Inn. Also, there are two taxi companies serving the area:
Yellow Cab, 909-622-1313, and Dell Cab, 800-340-8294.
FOOD and DRINK:
For morning arrivals, we will have FREE donuts, rolls, juice, and coffee.
For lunch, the Cable EAA Chapter will have their food booth with reasonably
priced food and drink. Cable also has an excellent airport restaurant, Maniac
Mike's Caf=E9, for more "gourmet" fare at reasonable prices. We will have a
shuttle van to take people to the south side of the airport where Maniac Mike's
Caf=E9 is located.
Please DO NOT walk across the runway but please DO use our shuttle van.
Note: Maniac Mike's Caf=E9 is also hosting an antique aircraft fly-in on Nov.
1-2, so you should be able to see some interesting airplanes near the
restaurant!
SHELTER, SEATING, SWAPS, AND OTHER STUFF:
Shade and seating will be under the new 60 X 60 shade hangar that is used as
an aircraft wash rack. We will have the food booth, Clearair Tools tool demo
area, and an area to sell / swap any of your RV-related parts. We would like
to have a Tee Shirt vendor on site to sell 2003 SoCAL RV RendezVous shirts and
are working to find one.
Note: You might want to bring some suntan lotion, or sunscreen, if you plan
to do a lot of gawking at the RVs out on the ramp!
SAFETY AND SECURITY:
Our Safety and Security Officer is Gary Hart. In case of any problems, Gary
will be able to contact local law enforcement, the local fire department,
healthcare, etc.
Note: Gary Hart has the "Final Word" with respect to RendezVous safety! All
RendezVous participants are expected to follow Gary's guidance to ensure a
Safe, Good Time!
Important: We have no "event" insurance, since this is an informal "get
together" for RV folks only and is not a "public" fly-in, so you're self-insured.
All flying and ground operations are at your own risk/insurance. Although
Gary, and other SoCAL volunteers, will be available to help you, your safety and
security is ultimately your own responsibility!
RSVP:
If you're planning to come to the RendezVous (75% sure, anyway!), please RSVP
via a reply to SoCAL_RendezVous(at)yahoo.com with your estimated number of
people in your group and vehicles (autos or aircraft) so that we can get a rough
idea of how many people and vehicles might be arriving. This will help us with
aircraft and auto parking preparations, food and drink amounts, etc. THANKS!
QUESTIONS:
If you have any questions, please contact Bill Palmer at wmpalm(at)aol.com, and
we'll try to provide an answer, or at least an opinion! Note: Our responses
are at your own risk!
SUMMARY:
No Judging, No Trophies, No Schedule, No Fees, No Hassles - - Just Mutual RV
Admiration and FUN!
We'll look forward to seeing you on Saturday, Nov.1 at Cable Airport!!! RVs
FOREVER!!!
Best Regards,
Gary Sobek
SoCAL RV RendezVous Chairman
EAA Technical Counselor, AB DAR-elect
RV-6 N157GS
Bill Palmer
RendezVous Marketing and Communications Officer
RV-8A QB In-Progress
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV7 Tank to Leading Edge Fit Question |
> It may be that I'm being too picky here, but I want input on a tank to
> leading edge fit issue I've run into. On the right side the fit is
Dwight,
Another builder had this very same problem recently...he mentioned that
Van's suggested grinding down the Z brackets, which I thought was a pretty
bad idea...there are easier ways. Here's the email I sent him. It may or
may not apply in your case.
My assumption is that the problem is in two possible areas, both related to
the rib flanges:
1) Rib-to-baffle flanges. Make sure those puppies are good and square. If
they're even slightly obtuse, they'll push the tank skin forward away from
the baffle. So check 'em and if anything, evenly bend the aft rib flanges
forward very, very slightly. Square is best, but you could "coax" 'em if
you
had to, if you know what I mean.
2) More likely are the flanges at the nose area of each tank rib. If you
had
an experience like I did, I had a hell of time getting those ribs "deep"
enough into the tank to get clecos in (at first). It was a real bitch doing
it. It's *really* easy to elongate the holes, rather than getting the ribs
deep down into the skin. If that happens, then exactly what you've
witnessed
will be the symptom...tank skin will sit further forward and proud of the
leading edge skin. So I think this is 99% likely to be your issue.
My recommendation would be to really make sure your tank ribs are getting
pressed all the way into the tank skin when you cleco 'em. If the holes are
elongated, you might think about ordering new tank ribs. They can't be that
expensive in the grand scheme of things. If the holes are not elongated,
think about "filing round" the nose area of the rib flanges. Essentially,
you've got like 8 or so mini flanges up there, all flat edges. It's best to
file the edges of each flange so that it "approximates a curve" rather than
has lots of flats...know what I mean? Hard to express.
I had a similar fit issue on the front deck/canopy skin area. I had to file
the flanges round on their edges so that the flange edges didn't push the
skin out.
Ok, enough babbling...lemme know if these suggestions help out at all. I'll
be curious to see if they do, and/or what ends up solving the problem.
Best of luck,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net> |
Sorry list that message was meant for Kip
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | oil cooler flow direction |
Is there a hard and fast rule about which direction the oil should flow in a
vertically oriented oil cooler? According to Van's fwf kit drawings, the
oil should flow UP through the cooler, flowing into the bottom port and out
of the top port.
Does oil cooling suffer in any way if you reverse the flow, so that the oil
flows into the top port and flows DOWN through the cooler?
Just wanted to get the skinny on this before I decide what my oil cooler
hose setup will be. In some ways it will be much easier to have oil flowing
DOWN through the cooler. The Jihostroj governor bracket really gets in the
way!
Thanks in advance,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: oil cooler flow direction |
All the responses in the archives will tell you that you'll want to have
the in port at the bottom and the out port on top. That way, you won't get
oil leaving the cooler unless the cooler is full of the slippery stuff.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: RV-List: oil cooler flow direction
>
> Is there a hard and fast rule about which direction the oil should flow in
a
> vertically oriented oil cooler? According to Van's fwf kit drawings, the
> oil should flow UP through the cooler, flowing into the bottom port and
out
> of the top port.
>
> Does oil cooling suffer in any way if you reverse the flow, so that the
oil
> flows into the top port and flows DOWN through the cooler?
>
> Just wanted to get the skinny on this before I decide what my oil cooler
> hose setup will be. In some ways it will be much easier to have oil
flowing
> DOWN through the cooler. The Jihostroj governor bracket really gets in
the
> way!
>
> Thanks in advance,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: oil cooler flow direction |
In a message dated 10/22/03 2:36:40 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
dan(at)rvproject.com writes:
> oil should flow UP through the cooler, flowing into the bottom port and out
> of the top port.
>
>
This is to prevent any possible air pockets which would reduce the
effectiveness of the cooler.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kip Haas" <kiphaas(at)firstam.com> |
Hi Noel, my QB doesn't have the finishing kit.
-Kip
----- Original Message -----
From: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-7 QB
>
> Kip,
>
> I sent your e-mail to my partner and here is his questions.
>
>
> is that a complete QB rv7 ? with finishing kit also? i have a cessna 140
> with zero timed eng, by magnum engines of ohio. painted in L-19 colors
> with army markings. it has 720 com, garmin gps. txp. mode c , 800-6 new
> tires , and tubes. new stainless brake lines slick mags. it is a trouble
> free plane that you can fly 2000 hrs with little expense. you can see the
> plane on trade a plane. im asking 25000 or trade for complete rv kit.
> thank you
>
> Noel / Gary
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kip Haas
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RV-7 QB
>
>
> I have an RV-7 QB for sale (delivered in July), It includes a tail kit
that
> has been drilled, dimpled and deburred, but not rivited. It also includes
a
> partial RV-8 tail. The QB is in a hanger in Corona, Ca. I am moving out of
> state and I do not have a place for the plane. Please email me with your
> offers.
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Kip
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frederick Oldenburg <foldenburg(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | How Much Primer? |
I'm confused on the subject of priming and could use some common sense advise.
I've looked in the archives and I see a lot of "Primer Wars" that seem to be more
of a general nature and not specific to any particular situation. Here is
my situation: I live in the greater metropolitan area of Phoenix, Arizona. We
get an average of seven (7) inches of rainfall and 360+ days of VFR weather a
year. For all practical purposes, it never snows here. (OK...In the 12 or so years
I have lived here it has snowed twice that I can remember, never for more
than an hour or so and it never sticks). I absolutely love it here and don't
ever plan on moving.
The US Air Force and Boeing store their airplanes that are too big to hangar here
in Arizona - so they won't corrode while sitting outside. My airplane will
be kept in a hangar....I've already made plans and secured a spot on the waiting
list: The airplane will not leave my garage until I have hangar space.
Based on all that, I don't think I am going to need to do a whole lot of priming,
if any. I see 40 year old Cessnas here with no factory corrosion protection
that seem to be in fine shape (with respect to corrosion).
So...my question is: In these circumstances, what priming should I do, at a minimum?
Do I need to do any at all? If I need to prime, what should I use? Am I
completely out to lunch thinking that I can get away without priming?
Fred Oldenburg
RV-7A - Shop Prep - Empennage Kit -Almost Ready to Start Building
http://rv.oldsack.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How Much Primer? |
I would at least primer the non-alclad parts. The steel parts are already
powder coated so nothing further is required there. In addition to priming the
non-alclad parts, I'm also primering anywhere there is metal to metal contact
only. In my area, Central California, there is little need to primer the entire
inter-structure.
Of course this is just my worthless .02.
Bryon Crook
RV-9 (emp kit under constuction)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How Much Primer? |
Hi Fred,
The need for priming seems to be, in many ways, related to the severity
of the environment. High humidity and especially in the presence of salt
water seems to be the worst. Your environment and climate is probably
the most benign and your machine will probably last forever, if it stays
there. However ----- will you be the only owner of the airplane for the
next XX years? Should you decide to sell it in the near or even distant
future, it would be more attractive to a potential buyer from a more
severe, corrosion-prone location if the structure was primed with
corrosion inhibiting materials.
Hope this is of some help.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
-6A finishing details (primed with zinc chromate)
Florida
Frederick Oldenburg wrote:
>
>
> I'm confused on the subject of priming and could use some common sense advise.
I've looked in the archives and I see a lot of "Primer Wars" that seem to be
more of a general nature and not specific to any particular situation. Here is
my situation: I live in the greater metropolitan area of Phoenix, Arizona. We
get an average of seven (7) inches of rainfall and 360+ days of VFR weather
a year. For all practical purposes, it never snows here. (OK...In the 12 or so
years I have lived here it has snowed twice that I can remember, never for more
than an hour or so and it never sticks). I absolutely love it here and don't
ever plan on moving.
>
> The US Air Force and Boeing store their airplanes that are too big to hangar
here in Arizona - so they won't corrode while sitting outside. My airplane will
be kept in a hangar....I've already made plans and secured a spot on the waiting
list: The airplane will not leave my garage until I have hangar space.
>
> Based on all that, I don't think I am going to need to do a whole lot of priming,
if any. I see 40 year old Cessnas here with no factory corrosion protection
that seem to be in fine shape (with respect to corrosion).
>
> So...my question is: In these circumstances, what priming should I do, at a minimum?
Do I need to do any at all? If I need to prime, what should I use? Am
I completely out to lunch thinking that I can get away without priming?
>
> Fred Oldenburg
> RV-7A - Shop Prep - Empennage Kit -Almost Ready to Start Building
> http://rv.oldsack.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How Much Primer? |
Hi Fred,
I suppose that things like how far a-field you intend to fly and what kind
of weather situations you might encounter might have some bearing on primer
choices.
Outdoor parking in weather on longer trips away can not always be avoided?
Places in the structure where metals overlap will retain moisture and
accompanying contaminants for periods long enough to be susceptible to
corrosion especially in the lower areas.of the structure.
Moisture and contaminants that might be encountered in regular maintenance
routines such as washing etc. should also be considered.
None of these considerations are earth shaking so what you feel you can
tolerate will help you decide how to approach the primer issue
I think some degree of primer preparation should be considered but that of
course is just my opinion.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frederick Oldenburg" <foldenburg(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: How Much Primer?
>
> I'm confused on the subject of priming and could use some common sense
advise. I've looked in the archives and I see a lot of "Primer Wars" that
seem to be more of a general nature and not specific to any particular
situation. Here is my situation: I live in the greater metropolitan area of
Phoenix, Arizona. We get an average of seven (7) inches of rainfall and 360+
days of VFR weather a year. For all practical purposes, it never snows here.
(OK...In the 12 or so years I have lived here it has snowed twice that I can
remember, never for more than an hour or so and it never sticks). I
absolutely love it here and don't ever plan on moving.
>
> The US Air Force and Boeing store their airplanes that are too big to
hangar here in Arizona - so they won't corrode while sitting outside. My
airplane will be kept in a hangar....I've already made plans and secured a
spot on the waiting list: The airplane will not leave my garage until I have
hangar space.
>
> Based on all that, I don't think I am going to need to do a whole lot of
priming, if any. I see 40 year old Cessnas here with no factory corrosion
protection that seem to be in fine shape (with respect to corrosion).
>
> So...my question is: In these circumstances, what priming should I do, at
a minimum? Do I need to do any at all? If I need to prime, what should I
use? Am I completely out to lunch thinking that I can get away without
priming?
>
>
> Fred Oldenburg
> RV-7A - Shop Prep - Empennage Kit -Almost Ready to Start Building
> http://rv.oldsack.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Alexander <don(at)propjock.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV7 Tank to Leading Edge Fit Question |
Dwight,
I had a similar problem with the way the very nose of the tanks and the
LE fit together on my 9A. It discovered the problem a few days before
Oshkosh this year and I got lots of advise from other builders and Gus
at Van's. The mismatch was approximately 3/64" but looked about twice
that to me and only grew bigger in my mind as I was away from home. It
looked like hell imo and worse, no plane on the line had the problem to
the degree I did. You can see what I was dealing with
(http://www.propjock.com/images/Wings/W-closeupRjoint-72.jpg) and decide
for yourself. Gus suggested taking a hammer and tapping it down, which
seemed a tad risky to me. When I got home I took a board about 15" long
and 4" wide (just scrap) and laid it over the high skin and started
tapping it rather firmly with a mallet. In about a minute I had the
result I was looking for. There was no visable distortion and the skins
match up perfectly. You can decide for yourself if it's close enough
for you
(http://www.propjock.com/images/Wings/W-closeupRjointfixed.jpg). The
shots are from different sides of the same wing.
My guess is the tank skins are over bent a bit compared to the LE
skins. There are a couple of possible reasons for the discrepancy but
the fix eliminated my curiosity.
Don,
RV9A 90702 Wings
www.propjock.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Martin Sobel <rv8vator(at)earthlink.net> |
RV-List Digest Server"
Rich:
I recently saw a request for RV models on one of the sites I monitor. I
believe it was for an RV-8.
It may be on the Matronics list. The only response was for the R/C model.
I'll forward this message to the groups involved.
Martin Sobel
Moving to a condominium in Westerville OH. Hope to order the RV-8 tail by
the end of March. May need to find a place to build.
10/22/03 2:16 PM, rich_aircraftextras_com at rmeske(at)gcfn.org wrote:
Hey guys!
I'm new here but not new to the RV world. I just thought I'd
introduce myself as I see some of the others did. I have met some of
you at Oshkosh and Sun N Fun.
I live in Columbus OH and have built and now fly my own RV-6A. I fly
quite regularly now and it flys like a dream! I also visit and
consult for various homebuilders around the area constructing RVs.
I am the guy that designed the Tip-Up/Slider canopy modification for
the RV-6, 7, & 9. Many had asked me to come up with a kit for it.
After a year and a half, I did. I started a small internet business
selling products that I designed and also modifications designed by
other people. It has been great meeting people thru this small
business at the same time, saving them some money too. I know from
personal experience, that homebuilding can be expensive!
Check it out at: www.aircraftextras.com
Oh, I just added a couple of NEW RV models! Just had one made of my
plane. It really looks like my plane. It's GREAT!
Well, enough said for now. If anyone needs a consultant or if I can
help anyone, please let me know!
Best regards,
Rich
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
OhioValleyRVators-unsubscribe(at)yahoogroups.com
<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BPattonsoa(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: How Much Primer? |
My RV-6A is completely primed inside and out. I live in the Central Coast of
California. One of my major lessons learned on this one was the need for
weight reduction. On my RV-10 I will only prime the materials Van requires. The
exterior will be a system that requires minimum priming and overall weight.
Mine is a great airplane, but heavy. It sure goes better solo, and this
weekend I went off with about 15 gallons of fuel and myself, it is a different
airplane.
If you tie down on the ocean, or in it, prime. Otherwise just maintain.
Bruce Patton
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
| Subject: | Re: How Much Primer? |
> I live in the greater metropolitan area of
> Phoenix, Arizona. We get an average of seven (7) inches of rainfall and 360+
> days of VFR weather a year.
Fred:
Warning: long on opinion, short on fact...
Where I live, near Vancouver, Canada, is pretty much the opposite of where you
are: right on the coast, with lots of rain and salty air. A lot of builders
here are becoming convinced that it's not necessary to prime the Alclad parts
(except where they join, to avoid Galvanic corrosion). That opinion is partly
based on the many production airplanes that have been here for decades with no
primer on the Alclad surfaces and no signs of corrosion.
Two earlier posters mentioned weight and resale value. I think that really is
the trade off here. There is a perception that you need to prime everything,
and it MIGHT make your airplane a little harder to sell if you don't. Maybe.
On the other hand, it will for certain make it a little heavier.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clayton Henderson" <gsuit(at)eonet.net> |
| Subject: | RV7 Tank to Leading Edge Fit Question |
Dwight,
I asked a buddy of mine to chime in because he had a similar problem
that he worked out. Here's what he had to say.
Clayton Henderson
Beaumont, Tx
RV-7 Fuselage
_____________________________
A buddy on the list asked me what I thought about your dilemma. You may
already have the answer you want, but I'll chime in just in case. I
agree with you and would NOT want a gap that big on the tank fit. Both
my RV-7 tanks fit well on the initial fit up, so you may want to look
and make sure that your Z-brackets are sitting down flush with the spar
and the rear baffle. It doesn't take much to cock it up a bit. You may
have to remove the leading edge temporarily to get a peek in there.
Yeah, it's a pain, but it's easier to do it now.
After I had one of my tanks sealed, the tank to LE fit was off a little
and I couldn't figure out what had happened. We finally determined that
I had gotten a little too much sealant between one of the tank ribs and
the rear baffle (Van's does say to use a THIN smear of sealant there).
That caused the tank to sit a little high. Through an iterative
process, I was able to file and sand down one of the Z-brackets where it
attaches to the spar. I had used a straightedge across them with the
tank off the wing to see which one was high. That brought everything
back into alignment and Van's was okay with this. They said there is so
much hardware attaching the tanks that one component being a little thin
isn't going to hurt. We're only talk 1/32" or so anyway.
Van's told me in the days prior to pre-punched skins, they told builders
that if they could get the joint gap between the rear of the tank skin
and the main wing skin it butts up to within the thickness of a skin
(.032") that they were doing well. This is further down from your
problem, but you may want to look there as well. Are the skins tight
against each other or is there a gap? If they're tight, you may need to
file the edge(s) of the skin down a little. If there's a gap, that's
telling me that something between the Z-brackets and rear baffle isn't
right. If you don't get it right now, you may have alignment issues
with the dozens of screws that attach the tank to the spar.
I hope this helps. Feel free to e-mail me if you need clarification on
what I'm saying.
Dave Welsh
Beaumont, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-7 Slider skin fit help |
I am having a difficult time fitting the rear skins on the slider canopy on a RV-7.
I am following Van's directions and I cannot seem to get the skin to lay
flat on the top area about 0-3" from the rear center slider track. I have shaved
the canopy flat in this area (to prevent the ski slope up affect) which helped,
but I still have about a 1/8" gap. When I pull the skins forward as I
drill them, they seem to lay flat, but once I put a cleco in them, the pop back
up. I am starting at the top center and working my way down to the side. Anyone
have any suggestions? Thanks
-Mike Kraus
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wig Wag Light wiring question |
Does anyone know how the Wig-Wag lights are wired and switched? I am going to
have landing lights on each wing tip with the wig-wag hooked up.
Am I to have both a left and right switch for the landing lights, or one switch
for both? Is the Wig-wag an additional switch or is it all incorporated in one
switch? I am trying to lay out my panel and I'm wondering if I need 1, 2,
or 3 switches. Thanks in advance for any help!
-Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gilalex(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How Much Primer? |
Bruce,
Most people put the epoxy primer on too thick...
From the Sterling paint web site
U-1201 and U-1201G Primer @ 1.0 mil-------.0133 lbs per sq. ft.
If the total interior surface is 500 sq. ft. (a high number?), this give
6.7 lbs.
I would guess the fancy clear coat, multi-color exterior paint jobs would
add more weight. A single topcoat at 3 mils is 3 to 4 times the weight per
sq. ft. than the primer layer. How many layers of paint are folks putting
on the exteriors of their planes? Unfortunately, the few RV-6As I know of
that have been professionally painted were not accurately weighed before
and after exterior paint.
The U-1201 primer is a MIL-P-23377D primer- I would think other epoxy
primer are similar if used in the same application thickness.
Keep that primer layer thin (almost transparent) and it will do the
job at minimum weight.
gil in Tucson
Sterling A/C paint info here...
http://www.detcomarine.com/slacguide.htm#AIRCRAFT%20APPLICATION%20GUIDE
>
>My RV-6A is completely primed inside and out. I live in the Central Coast of
>California. One of my major lessons learned on this one was the need for
>weight reduction. On my RV-10 I will only prime the materials Van
>requires. The
>exterior will be a system that requires minimum priming and overall weight.
>Mine is a great airplane, but heavy. It sure goes better solo, and this
>weekend I went off with about 15 gallons of fuel and myself, it is a
>different
>airplane.
>
>If you tie down on the ocean, or in it, prime. Otherwise just maintain.
>
>Bruce Patton
>
>
RV-6A, #20701 .. fitting out firewall...
77 Tiger N28478 at 57AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "GEORGE INMAN" <ghinman(at)attcanada.ca> |
| Subject: | RV-8 vert.stab angle |
I am about to lineup my vertical stab
I have an RV-8 with a 180HP lycoming.
Can someone with this settup tell
me how much they had to trim their rudder
and which way?
I plan to line it up per vans directions,
but if I do error a small amount,which
direction should I error in?
GEORGE H. INMAN
ghinman(at)attcanada.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dwight Frye <dwight(at)openweave.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV7 Tank to Leading Edge Fit Question |
Thanks for all the input on the tank skin to LE skin fit issue. It'll
likely be Sunday before I can get back out there and fiddle with it but
you all have given me a number of good things to check and try. I feel
sure now that I can get the fit adjusted to my satisfaction. I really
appreciate everyone taking time to look at the issue and provide such
good thoughts on how to proceed. I'll let ya know how it turns out. :)
-- Dwight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Wig Wag Light wiring question |
Go to Bob Nuckoll's website (see below) and scroll down to the article on
wig-wags. It will take you to a PDF file that gives you three different
methods of wiring a Gall's flasher to do the job. There are some other ways
too. Eric Jones sells a little module that does the job, as I believe does
Bob Hahn.
Terry
RV-8A finishing
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles.html
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of N223RV(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Wig Wag Light wiring question
Does anyone know how the Wig-Wag lights are wired and switched? I am going
to have landing lights on each wing tip with the wig-wag hooked up.
Am I to have both a left and right switch for the landing lights, or one
switch for both? Is the Wig-wag an additional switch or is it all
incorporated in one switch? I am trying to lay out my panel and I'm
wondering if I need 1, 2, or 3 switches. Thanks in advance for any help!
-Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wig Wag Light wiring question |
You can wire the landing lights any way you want. If you want them both
to come on with the same switch, than you could use one three-position
switch for "OFF/ON/WIGWAG." If you want each light on seperate
switches, you could use two switches, with the wig-wag on one, or three
seperate switches. In short, there are many ways to wire the switches
and lights, depending on what you want to accomplish.
Jeff Point
RV-6 finishing
Milwaukee WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wig Wag Light wiring question |
I have one too, and have three different ways to wire it, but my site is
down. I think my hosting provider went TU...
Should have it back up sometime today...
-Bill VonDane
www.creativair.com
www.vondane.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Wig Wag Light wiring question
Go to Bob Nuckoll's website (see below) and scroll down to the article on
wig-wags. It will take you to a PDF file that gives you three different
methods of wiring a Gall's flasher to do the job. There are some other ways
too. Eric Jones sells a little module that does the job, as I believe does
Bob Hahn.
Terry
RV-8A finishing
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles.html
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of N223RV(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Wig Wag Light wiring question
Does anyone know how the Wig-Wag lights are wired and switched? I am going
to have landing lights on each wing tip with the wig-wag hooked up.
Am I to have both a left and right switch for the landing lights, or one
switch for both? Is the Wig-wag an additional switch or is it all
incorporated in one switch? I am trying to lay out my panel and I'm
wondering if I need 1, 2, or 3 switches. Thanks in advance for any help!
-Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Del Schneider" <del(at)deltech.ca> |
I need a seal for the back of the slider on my RV6. I saw a RV6A at Falcon
Field in Mesa, AZ where the owner had used a silicon foam rubber seal with
an adhesive back to keep the cold air off his neck. In AZ this breeze is not
as cool as it is here in northern Canada. Can anyone help before I catch a
cold.
C-GZVD
Del Schneider
Prince George, BC. Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-7 Slider skin fit help |
Mike,
A couple of suggestions. You need to be really aggressive in pulling the
skins down and forward--over compensate for the looseness in the clecos.
The more holes you drill and the more clecos that go in the better, and the
skins should start to lay flat the further down you go. Try using the type
of clecos that screw in to hold tighter. Make sure that when you finally
put rivets in these holes that the canopy is off the fuse so that there is
nothing pushing the skirts up. Here is a picture of mine (RV-6) if this
helps???
http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-pathatch
Go to the Photo Gallery, then page number 7.
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 QB (Building)
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: <N223RV(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV-7 Slider skin fit help
>
> I am having a difficult time fitting the rear skins on the slider canopy
on a RV-7. I am following Van's directions and I cannot seem to get the
skin to lay flat on the top area about 0-3" from the rear center slider
track. I have shaved the canopy flat in this area (to prevent the ski slope
up affect) which helped, but I still have about a 1/8" gap. When I pull the
skins forward as I drill them, they seem to lay flat, but once I put a cleco
in them, the pop back up. I am starting at the top center and working my
way down to the side. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks
> -Mike Kraus
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | a flyer <aflyer(at)direcway.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 vert.stab angle |
Van's instructions say to line it up straight with the centerline of the
fuse. I did my best to do that, and if it is off, it is too small for me to
see or measure. I have no tab on my rudder, the airplane flies straight at
cruise speed. Could be pure luck of course.
The motor mount is canted to the right a little to help compensate for the
left turning forces. You will still need right rudder on take off and climb,
and left in descents. A local fellow designed in a rudder trim system, but
the forces required are light, and I am happy with it as is.
John Huft
Pagosa Springs, CO
RV8 135 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "GEORGE INMAN" <ghinman(at)attcanada.ca>
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 vert.stab angle
>
> I am about to lineup my vertical stab
> I have an RV-8 with a 180HP lycoming.
> Can someone with this settup tell
> me how much they had to trim their rudder
> and which way?
> I plan to line it up per vans directions,
> but if I do error a small amount,which
> direction should I error in?
>
> GEORGE H. INMAN
> ghinman(at)attcanada.ca
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wig Wag Light wiring question |
Mike,
I laid mine out with 3 switches, one each for "Taxi," "Landing," and "Pulse"
functions. Bob Nuckolls has a schematic at Aeroelectic.com and he also
sells the WigWag circuit. The left wing light is the Taxi, right wing
Landing, and either one takes precedence over the Pulse position. The only
difference is that the Taxi light is angled down further for the 3-point
attitude. Hope this makes sense.
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 QB (Building)
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: <N223RV(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Wig Wag Light wiring question
>
> Does anyone know how the Wig-Wag lights are wired and switched? I am
going to have landing lights on each wing tip with the wig-wag hooked up.
>
> Am I to have both a left and right switch for the landing lights, or one
switch for both? Is the Wig-wag an additional switch or is it all
incorporated in one switch? I am trying to lay out my panel and I'm
wondering if I need 1, 2, or 3 switches. Thanks in advance for any help!
> -Mike
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Good" <chrisjgood(at)lycos.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FAB Airbox Bolts FYI |
Rob,
Can you post the bolt size/spec, price & ordering information, so that I can get
them on order?
Thanks,
Chris Good
RV-6A
--
--------- Original Message ---------
DATE: Thu, 23 Oct 2003 14:20:10
From: <racker(at)rmci.net>
>
>Listers,
>
>Since reading/hearing reports of ingested FAB carb attach bolts/tabs using
>the metal tab lock washers supplied in the FAB airbox kit, I ordered up
>some MS20074 drilled head bolts to attach the FAB with instead
>(safety-wired in place).
>
>Upon removing the airbox last night to perform the swap, I discovered the
>metal tabs had begun corroding after 58hrs of flight time (and 38hrs since
>last inspection). I'll feel much more secure flying over the Sawtooths
>after replacing these rusted puppies with safety-wired bolts.
>
>Just a heads up.
>
>Rob Acker (RV-6 flying imho ymmv etc)
http://ad.doubleclick.net/clk;6413623;3807821;f?http://mocda3.com/1/c/563632/125699/307982/307982
This offer applies to U.S. Residents Only
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
Del,
I used a seal from ACS, pg 124 of the latest catalog, pn 05-01900.
It's a "V" seal that I glued on to the inside of the fuse skin using
weather striping adhesive, facing back. The air pressure pushes the
seal up against the canopy skirt. Works well.
Hope this sketch helps.....
_____________ canopy skirt
fwd
/ seal aft
/ ___________ aft fuse skin
|______
Now filling the hole around the slider track is a tougher problem. I
just redid my skirt to have the smallest possible cover possible.
Good luck.
Laird RV-6 slider
SoCal (107 F yesterday....)
>
>I need a seal for the back of the slider on my RV6. I saw a RV6A at Falcon
>Field in Mesa, AZ where the owner had used a silicon foam rubber seal with
>an adhesive back to keep the cold air off his neck. In AZ this breeze is not
>as cool as it is here in northern Canada. Can anyone help before I catch a
>cold.
>
>C-GZVD
>Del Schneider
>Prince George, BC. Canada
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wig Wag Light wiring question |
If you use the AeroConnection Wig-Wag flasher you will need a seperate
switch. You can download the schematic from their website.
Mike Robertson
>From: N223RV(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Wig Wag Light wiring question
>Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2003 09:53:06 -0400
>
>
>Does anyone know how the Wig-Wag lights are wired and switched? I am going
>to have landing lights on each wing tip with the wig-wag hooked up.
>
>Am I to have both a left and right switch for the landing lights, or one
>switch for both? Is the Wig-wag an additional switch or is it all
>incorporated in one switch? I am trying to lay out my panel and I'm
>wondering if I need 1, 2, or 3 switches. Thanks in advance for any help!
>-Mike
>
>
Surf and talk on the phone at the same time with broadband Internet access.
Get high-speed for as low as $29.95/month (depending on the local service
providers in your area). https://broadband.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FAB Airbox Bolts FYI |
| From: | <racker(at)rmci.net> |
www.airpartsinc.com, p/n MS20074-04-4, $1.55 ea.
>
> Rob,
>
> Can you post the bolt size/spec, price & ordering information, so that I
> can get them on order?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Chris Good
> RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 vert.stab angle |
>
> I am about to lineup my vertical stab
>I have an RV-8 with a 180HP lycoming.
> Can someone with this settup tell
>me how much they had to trim their rudder
>and which way?
> I plan to line it up per vans directions,
>but if I do error a small amount,which
>direction should I error in?
>
>GEORGE H. INMAN
>ghinman(at)attcanada.ca
I installed my VS dead nuts straight...right down the centerline of the
fuselage. With feet off the pedals it flies straight, with maybe just a
tiny bit of right rudder pressure required for a perfectly centered ball.
The mere weight of my foot on the pedal is all it takes. No mental or
physical effort is required. Your results may vary, of course, but I would
err to a slight displacement of the VS leading edge to the left of
centerline. Any offset may impact the way your kit supplied tail faring
fits, so just be prepared for that.
Good luck.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
180 hp/Sensenich
Concerned that messages may bounce because your Hotmail account has exceeded
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ollie Washburn" <ollie-6a(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wig Wag Light wiring question |
I had individual sws.for each side before I added wig-wag so I have 3 sws.2
on panel and one on stick to turn w/w on. Ollie
----- Original Message ----- > Does anyone know how the Wig-Wag lights are
wired and switched? I am going to have landing lights on each wing tip with
the wig-wag hooked up.
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Geoff Evans <hellothaimassage(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Heads up -- QB fuel tank fittings |
After sealing my tank inspection plates and senders with proseal (no gaskets)
last weekend, I pressure checked my tanks today. There were big leaks around
the -6 fittings that had been pre-installed in the inspection plates!
I specifically checked these fittings for sealant before installing the cover
plates. I could see a very small amount of proseal around the fittings on the
insides of the plates. Although no sealant was visible around the washer or
nut on the outsides of the plates, I assumed that the fitting was sealed
properly. After all, they did pressure-test the sucker.
When I found the leaks I removed the nut and washer from the outsides of the
plates. Guess what -- no proseal whatsoever behind the washer, around the
fitting, or on the threads. In fact, on one wing there wasn't even enough
proseal inside to hold the fitting in the hole -- I could wiggle it with my
fingers no problem.
I don't know if they just forgot or if there is a quality control problem
here, but these fittings were bound to leak the way they sealed them. (FYI,
my quickbuild wings were delivered in November 2002.)
Which brings me to my next problem... I no longer have access to the insides
of the tanks, so I'll have to seal these fittings from the outside. Since I
can't get a wrench on the backside of the fitting, I'll have to use the
anti-rotation bracket as a "wrench" to hold the fitting as I tighten the nut.
This made me wonder -- there is no way to hold the fitting with a wrench, so
what will keep it from moving (the slight amount allowed by the hole in the
anti-rotation bracket) every time the fuel line is connected or disconnected?
My reference book says that nuts for -6 fittings should be torqued 75-125
inch-pounds. I just don't see how I can use that kind of force on the fuel
line nut without the fitting moving -- even with the jam nut in place against
the rib.
Also, since I don't have any proseal left (I used the kind that comes in the
calking gun tube), I'm going to try sealing the fittings with Aviation
Permatex form-a-gasket. I've read bad things about this stuff in the
archives, but those posts were in reference to using Permatex in conjunction
with the cork gaskets on the cover plates. I *think* it should work okay in
this metal-to-metal application of sealing the washer, nut, and threads of a
fitting. Does anyone have any comments for me regarding this -- pro or con?
Thanks.
-Geoff
RV-8 QB
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
What is the best way to be assured of a sound pitot static system? I'm
using the nylon fittings on the back of the instruments and plain nylon
tubing. The connections seem tight -- I can't pull them apart. When I
blow on the pitot line the airspeed on the ASI and Dynon goes up -- I
seal the end of the line and watch it leak down to zero within 10
seconds. I assume this is a bad sign. Is everyone else using the nylon
fittings, or something else?
Thx,
-
Larry Bowen, RV-8. Only 110% to go...
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Main Gear Shimmy 6A |
I thought this might be interesting for the list. I ran Van's main gear
tires on my main gear for about 250 hours, and was able to avoid shimmy
on landing rollout by keeping the pressure below about 40psi. I'd still
get a little transient shimmy from time to time, but no big deal. I
installed new Michelin tires about 100 hours ago, and have experienced
about the same thing, although it seems to take a lower pressure to
eliminate the shimmy, perhaps 35psi. The problem with the lower
pressures is the difficulty pushing the plane back into the hanger,
especially in winter, so I'd really like to run them around 45psi
minimum.
I read on this list that some have had good luck by balancing the wheel
fairings fore and aft around the axle, by putting lead or something in
the very nose of the fairing. I did this, and the problem got worse!
An outside observer noted that the gear are moving fore and aft, and
this occurs at about 24knots. It feels quite significant inside the
plane. I do feel that the stresses on the fairing mounts are less when
the fairings are balanced (when the tire hits a bump, the fairing
doesn't try to pitch), for what that's worth.
It looks like my options are: heave harder in the winter or put the wood
stiffeners on.
I'll let you know the outcome...
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 294 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wig Wag Light wiring question |
Although it is easier to wire using a seperate switch, you could re-wire
your existing lights with a double pole, double throw progressive
transfer switch (2-10 type.) I did this and it works like a charm.
Check out the second schematic at
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/WigWag/WigWag.pdf and you'll see
what I'm talking about.
Jeff Point
RV-6 finishing
Milwaukee WI
Mike Robertson wrote:
>
>If you use the AeroConnection Wig-Wag flasher you will need a seperate
>switch. You can download the schematic from their website.
>
>Mike Robertson
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Heads up -- QB fuel tank fittings |
Hi Geoff,
I could be wrong about this but I think I remember seeing a post on the List
indicating that Vans now stocks the mixable tank sealant in small volumes
now.
In any case I am inclined to advise removing the tank inspection plates that
you installed and doing what you have to do to re-seal the leaking fittings
etc. and then re-installing the covers with the full knowledge that all is
right and proper in this particularly important area. I believe it will be
worth the effort and small cost to you later on at altitude.
LOL,
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Geoff Evans" <hellothaimassage(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Heads up -- QB fuel tank fittings
>
> After sealing my tank inspection plates and senders with proseal (no
gaskets)
> last weekend, I pressure checked my tanks today. There were big leaks
around
> the -6 fittings that had been pre-installed in the inspection plates!
>SNIP<
> Also, since I don't have any proseal left (I used the kind that comes in
the
> calking gun tube), I'm going to try sealing the fittings with Aviation
> Permatex form-a-gasket. I've read bad things about this stuff in the
> archives, but those posts were in reference to using Permatex in
conjunction
> with the cork gaskets on the cover plates. I *think* it should work okay
in
> this metal-to-metal application of sealing the washer, nut, and threads of
a
> fitting. Does anyone have any comments for me regarding this -- pro or
con?
>
> Thanks.
> -Geoff
> RV-8 QB
>
> __________________________________
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
Larry,
I just recently did my static system using some AN, Teflon
threadlube/sealant, the AN seals, aluminum tube and nylon tube. Haven't
done the pitot yet but it'll be similar except right out at the head as I
have a heated tube.
I used a MyTVac to test the leakdown - mine's good to 250'/hr. Gotta take
the VSI out of the system for low alt (<2500')testing with the vac pump and
both the VSI and ASI out of the system for high alt (>2500'-20k')testing.
I built this stuff into my removable panel - digital pics if you want them -
I've already had a bunch of requests......contact me directly.
Ralph Capen
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: RV-List: Pitot leaks
>
> What is the best way to be assured of a sound pitot static system? I'm
> using the nylon fittings on the back of the instruments and plain nylon
> tubing. The connections seem tight -- I can't pull them apart. When I
> blow on the pitot line the airspeed on the ASI and Dynon goes up -- I
> seal the end of the line and watch it leak down to zero within 10
> seconds. I assume this is a bad sign. Is everyone else using the nylon
> fittings, or something else?
>
> Thx,
>
> -
> Larry Bowen, RV-8. Only 110% to go...
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WPAerial(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 manual |
Saw the RV10 manual today. BOY! What a really nice construction manual. It's
has to be the nicest in the industry. Way to go Van's.
Jerry Wilken
RV6A 175 hrs
N699WP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joshua Siler" <joshs(at)ninatek.com> |
| Subject: | How Much Primer? |
Bruce,
How much does your RV weigh empty? How much of that weight do you attribute
to primer?
Regards,
Josh
Curious RV-7 builder, empennage
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of BPattonsoa(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: How Much Primer?
My RV-6A is completely primed inside and out. I live in the Central Coast
of
California. One of my major lessons learned on this one was the need for
weight reduction. On my RV-10 I will only prime the materials Van requires.
The
exterior will be a system that requires minimum priming and overall weight.
Mine is a great airplane, but heavy. It sure goes better solo, and this
weekend I went off with about 15 gallons of fuel and myself, it is a
different
airplane.
If you tie down on the ocean, or in it, prime. Otherwise just maintain.
Bruce Patton
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RGray67968(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-7 Slider skin fit help |
(0.6 points),
at.a.big.ISP(at)matronics.com
for the archives
Hi Mike,
The rear skirts can give you a mental workout! Be patient......I made 5
skirts (2 left and 3 right) before I finally figured it out :
).
2 things that will help big time:
1 - Take one skirt at time and clamp the upper (center) section on the edge
of the skirt to your work bench with a couple strong clamps. Then take the free
end (that will connect to the side skirt) in your hands and start "twisting"
the skirt. You'll be twisting it well past the 90 deg mark (from the clamped
end) and will approach the 180 deg mark at the opposite end of the skirt.
You'll need to be quite 'aggressive' with this but at the same time you don't want
any 'kinks' in the metal. The left skirt will be twisted clockwise and the
right skirt will be twisted counterclockwise for reasons that will become
obvious. You may even place both ends by the clamped end and start working your
way
'out'. By doing this you will 'shape' your skirts to the fuselage and REMOVE
any preload.
2 - (Not sure if you're too late for this or not) - add about 1/8" to 5/32"
spacers UNDER the rear slider plastic blocks that the slider 'pins' go into (I
forget the #'s). This will raise the rear of the slider frame up when in the
'closed' position. Then, when you fit the rear skirts nice and snug - they will
be REAL nice and snug when you REMOVE the spacers from under the plastic
blocks.
forget the fiberglass - you will NOT need it
Works every time!
Rick Gray RV6 in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm
I am having a difficult time fitting the rear skins on the slider canopy on a
RV-7. I am following Van's directions and I cannot seem to get the skin to
lay flat on the top area about 0-3" from the rear center slider track. I have
shaved the canopy flat in this area (to prevent the ski slope up affect) which
helped, but I still have about a 1/8" gap. When I pull the skins forward as
I drill them, they seem to lay flat, but once I put a cleco in them, the pop
back up. I am starting at the top center and working my way down to the side.
Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks
-Mike Kraus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Compton" <thecomptons(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: dipstick & tube--help |
----- Original Message ----- >
I have an overhauled O360A1A that I just put its first 6 quarts of oil in.
The dipstick shows that it has 5 quarts in it. No oil has yet circulated
through the oil lines or filter. This core when received did not have a
dipstick or tube, I ordered a new tube #75767 from an engine shop. It is
approx. 11 1/2" from tip of tube to engine base. The dipstick was a used
one from (supposedly) an O360A1A 8 quart system (it is imprinted "8" on
top). I don't know if I have the wrong dipstick or tube, any suggestions?
>
> Dave Ford
Dave:
I may be being presumptuous, but I think the other replies are missing the
point of your question.
Yes, if you have put 6 quarts in the engine via the filler/dipstick tube,
you should also be showing 6 quarts on the stick markings. That's all that
matters. Once you fire up the motor, sure, the quantity of oil in the sump
will drop as the oil fills the the various lines, etc. (But not much at all
if all you did was drain the oil but not change out the filter, which is
fodder for a whole 'nother oil debate.) And you'll just add whatever it
takes to get the sump level back up to where you like/need it.
As with any of this airplane stuff, you'll hear all kinds of advice: fill
it up; no don't do that, fill to 7; no don't, it'll just blow it down to 6;
no it won't, just down to 61/2.... The bottom line is that each motor kind
of has its own comfort level, so to speak, and you'll find out what yours
is. In any case, the stick needs to show what is actually in the sump, in
the attitude that the airplane sits, when you measure it. It is an oil sump
level, not oil system level, measuring device.
Anyhow, you can either custom make a stick - something I am now dealing with
myself - or see if you can buy a tube/stick that works. In my case, due to
my dynafocal ring/engine mount structure, a stock Lycoming tube/stick of
proper length for my particular O-320 is too close to the mount to be
assured that there would not be contact as the engine moves around a bit.
So, I found a filler tube of a length that works, now I just have to make
the dipstick. I've heard that you can get some welding rod to use as a
blank stick and then emboss marks as needed.
Unfortunately, so far I have not found a welding shop that has any rod in
the diameter that will work with the dipstick cap. In the meantime, I
scribed extra marks on the current stick that match what my engine takes.
Since my marks are, shall we say, somewhat crude as compared to the existing
factory marks, I have no trouble figuring out which ones to use when
determining the amount oil in the sump.
Fly safe,
Randy Compton
RV-3 N84VF
Gulf Breeze, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis and Stephanie Smith" <famflier(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | Ford Javelin 230 HP V6 for RV or?? |
Hello Friends
I am new to the RV family. Getting ready to build a RV-10. I recently sold
a Glasair project in order to do the RV. In doing so I now have a 230 HP
Ford Javelin V6 with 2:1 reduction that I need to sell. It just won't work
for the -10, but it could work well for a RV-6,-7,or -8. or several other
projects as well. We have a new -6A with a Chevy V6 on our airport just
being readied to fly for the first time!
If anyone out there would be interested in this enigne for their RV, I am
asking $5000 or best offer. It was actually mounted on a Christavia Mk IV,
so I have a mount for that application. It has only 2 hours run time on it,
and comes with everything ready to bolt on and run (except RV mount and
prop). It is a beautiful engine with excellent workmanship. I wish I could
use it myself.
Where else can you get 230 HP for $5K?
Any interest let me know.
I pick up my -10 empennage kit tomorrow and wing kit in a couple of months.
Will let you guys know how it goes.
Thanks
Dennis S
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Heads up -- QB fuel tank fittings |
There is a way to hold the fitting while tightening the nut. First remove
the hose, then get another nut just like the one holding the fitting in
place. Cut half way through it with a hack saw. Then install it on the
threads where the hose screws on. Grab it with a pair of vise grips which
will clamp it down on the threads. Your going to have to squeeze pretty
good but it will be enough to keep it from turning while getting a wrench
in behind it to tighten the mounting nut. I just did this a few weeks ago
on the flop tube which has even less room around it than any other fitting
on the tank.
Just order the right stuff, Proseal from ACS and do it right the first
time. It keeps very well in the frig for future use.
>
>Which brings me to my next problem... I no longer have access to the insides
>of the tanks, so I'll have to seal these fittings from the outside. Since I
>can't get a wrench on the backside of the fitting, I'll have to use the
>anti-rotation bracket as a "wrench" to hold the fitting as I tighten the nut.
>This made me wonder -- there is no way to hold the fitting with a wrench, so
>what will keep it from moving (the slight amount allowed by the hole in the
>anti-rotation bracket) every time the fuel line is connected or disconnected?
>My reference book says that nuts for -6 fittings should be torqued 75-125
>inch-pounds. I just don't see how I can use that kind of force on the fuel
>line nut without the fitting moving -- even with the jam nut in place against
>the rib.
>
>Also, since I don't have any proseal left (I used the kind that comes in the
>calking gun tube), I'm going to try sealing the fittings with Aviation
>Permatex form-a-gasket. I've read bad things about this stuff in the
>archives, but those posts were in reference to using Permatex in conjunction
>with the cork gaskets on the cover plates. I *think* it should work okay in
>this metal-to-metal application of sealing the washer, nut, and threads of a
>fitting. Does anyone have any comments for me regarding this -- pro or con?
>
>Thanks.
>-Geoff
>RV-8 QB
>
>__________________________________
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow(at)hotmail.com> |
Is anyone aware of a CAD model of an RV.
Specifically a Pro-E model of the RV-8A.
ERic--
GodSpeed Aviation
Surf and talk on the phone at the same time with broadband Internet access.
Get high-speed for as low as $29.95/month (depending on the local service
providers in your area). https://broadband.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
I have had some of the nylon tape in this area as an antichafe device, but
it really doesn't seal well, nor does it want to stay there very cleanly.
Next time I have the canopy off I am going to try putting down some of the
fuzzy side of 3/4" velcro. I have given up on using the self sticky kind
though as it doesn't last long. At the very least it will disturb the
airflow, and if it needs more than I can just stick a narrower strip of the
hook side down on the inboard edge of the 3/4" loop strip.
I'll post how this works when I get to it.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: dipstick & tube--help |
Randy Compton wrote:
> Unfortunately, so far I have not found a welding shop that has any rod in
> the diameter that will work with the dipstick cap. In the meantime, I
> scribed extra marks on the current stick that match what my engine takes.
> Since my marks are, shall we say, somewhat crude as compared to the existing
> factory marks, I have no trouble figuring out which ones to use when
> determining the amount oil in the sump.
>
A neat way to make new marks on a dipstick is to lightly score the stick
with a tubing cutter.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | rivet for #6 screw countersink? |
Is there a rivet which has the shank diameter of 3/32 (ie, your standard
an426ad3 rivet) but has a countersunk head sized for a #6 screw?
I guess it doesn't have to be 3/32 diameter. Is there any flush head rivet
sized for a #6 screw countersink?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap attachment |
Regarding your flap installation questions:
1) You probably want your aileron installed when drilling the flap hinge to
the wing...at least when initially getting it set up. That's the only way
to set the proper gap between the aileron and flap, which is what really
dictates the flap's position. I went with 3/16" gap between flap and
aileron, although I think most people go with 1/4" gap...lately I've heard
some RV-7 builders have fuselage interference if they let the gap get too
big, but from what I understand of the RV-8 you'll have none of those issues
due to the different, more aggressively tapered contour of the RV-8
fuselage.
2) In terms of drilling the hinge, you want to keep the hinge as straight as
possible when drilling. Otherwise, it will make it difficult if not
impossible to insert the hinge pin(s) later on if there's any waviness or
assymmetry between the two halves (i.e. if you drilled the two halves
independently and then just expected them to match up perfectly). Ask me
how I know...
3) In terms of the hinge pin insertion procedure, the RV-7 instructions
(same wing as the RV-8, from what I've been told) advise to go one of two
ways:
a) Drill a hole in the aileron hinge bracket
b) Split the flap hinge into two sections, and cut away three (or so)
eyelets from the center of the flap hinge
I went with (b) for a couple of reasons. First, shorter hinge pins are
easier to insert no matter what the setting (in my experience). Second,
it's easy to secure the pins to the flap brace with some safety wire. I
think if you look at Phil Birkelbach's site (http://www.myrv7.com, not sure
if he follows this list), he shows a nice way to bend and secure the ends of
the pins using the split-center method. I'm not knocking option (a), which
is simpler in some respects, just telling you what I've experienced.
4) If you want some advice on driling the flap hinge, I wrote an article for
our local SoCAL RV wing's newsletter on this very subject...it's on page 8
of this file:
http://www.rvproject.com/SoCalNewsletters/July2003.pdf
Best of luck,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Simmons" <ken(at)truckstop.com>
Subject: RV-List: Flap attachment
>
> There is a bunch of information in the archives about this subject, but
I'm not sure how much applies to a pre-punched wing kit or if it makes a
difference.
>
> This concerns a pre-punched RV-8 wing. I'm to the point of drilling the
hinge half to the flap. With everything pre-punched it seems like the
positioning of the hinge would be important to ensure the trailing edge of
the flap and aileron are aligned. I can't seem to find anywhere in the plans
where the flap is attached to the wing. I'm sure it's in there, but I can't
find it. I also found some information in the archives about replacing the
wing half of the hinge with a "wider" piece so the flap could be moved aft
some.
>
> The other often discussed item is installing the hinge whole or splitting
it in the middle. I had the opportunity to check a friends RV-6 with the
flap installed, but not connect to the operating rod. I couldn't see a way
to install the hinge from the bottom of the wing and there wasn't enough
room to insert it from the top. Is there a difference in this area between
the 6 and 8?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rivet for #6 screw countersink? |
----- Original Message -----
From: <RV8ter(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: rivet for #6 screw countersink?
>
> Is there a rivet which has the shank diameter of 3/32 (ie, your standard
> an426ad3 rivet) but has a countersunk head sized for a #6 screw?
>
> I guess it doesn't have to be 3/32 diameter. Is there any flush head
rivet
> sized for a #6 screw countersink?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Main Gear Shimmy 6A |
> FWIW, Alex, I've always run my Van's tires and later my
> McCreay (sp?) Airhawks at 32 psi or less (for awhile I used
> about 25 psi to try to lessen porpoising problems). There is
> in fact an increase in rolling resistance at these pressures,
> but far less tendency to shimmy.
Bill, thanks. I have reflected on what is going on with my shimmy, and
particularly why the shimmy got worse with the new Michelin tires. I
now believe that it is simply the additional weight that the Michelin
tires are as compared to the Van's tires. Any spring/mass system will
resonate unless sufficient damping is introduced. When I added the
additional weight in the fronts of the wheel fairings, the overall mass
went up and moved the frequency down. I think the only solution is to
keep the tire pressures low (increase the damping). Now, how to change
my scrawny build so that I can push the thing back into the hanger....
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 394 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
________________________________________________________________________________
I created a crude RV8 model in CATIA based off Van's 3-view drawing. I made
it just to try out different paint schemes and it wouldn't be accurate
enough for much else.
If you want it and can't read CATIA files I can translate it into something
else or send an IGES or Step file.
Brett Morawski
Toledo, OH
-8(a?) emp in progress, waiting on wing
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Eric Parlow
Subject: RV-List: RV CAD Model
Is anyone aware of a CAD model of an RV.
Specifically a Pro-E model of the RV-8A.
ERic--
GodSpeed Aviation
Surf and talk on the phone at the same time with broadband Internet access.
Get high-speed for as low as $29.95/month (depending on the local service
providers in your area). https://broadband.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clayton Henderson" <gsuit(at)eonet.net> |
| Subject: | Fuselage Center Section |
I'm trying to make heads or tails out of the F-704G vertical bar (shear
bar) fit and riveting. I assembled it in place, using AN4-7 bolts to
line it up perfectly in the pre-drilled holes. The bar 'leans' in board
as it should, and it looks like the plans call for drilling rivet holes
in the center of the bar at both ends.and I guess through the 704C as
well. If so, do I matchdrill all the way through the 704C - 704FWD -
704G - 704AFT - 704D? And if that's the case, then would I need to
counter sink the forward side of the 704FWD bulkhead for a AN426AD4-14
rivet? The plans say 'the rivets attaching the F704G bars have flush
heads on the forward side'.
I apologize in advance for the confusion - even my questions aren't
making sense to me right now. Any help would be appreciated.
Clayton Henderson
Beaumont, TX
RV-7 Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Center Section |
Those bars attach only to the AFT half of F-704. The wing spar web mates up
with the forward face of the bar, which is why you want the rivet heads
flush on the fwd face of the bar (so the wing can slide into place).
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Clayton Henderson" <gsuit(at)eonet.net>
Subject: RV-List: Fuselage Center Section
>
> I'm trying to make heads or tails out of the F-704G vertical bar (shear
> bar) fit and riveting. I assembled it in place, using AN4-7 bolts to
> line it up perfectly in the pre-drilled holes. The bar 'leans' in board
> as it should, and it looks like the plans call for drilling rivet holes
> in the center of the bar at both ends.and I guess through the 704C as
> well. If so, do I matchdrill all the way through the 704C - 704FWD -
> 704G - 704AFT - 704D? And if that's the case, then would I need to
> counter sink the forward side of the 704FWD bulkhead for a AN426AD4-14
> rivet? The plans say 'the rivets attaching the F704G bars have flush
> heads on the forward side'.
>
> I apologize in advance for the confusion - even my questions aren't
> making sense to me right now. Any help would be appreciated.
>
> Clayton Henderson
> Beaumont, TX
> RV-7 Fuselage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BPattonsoa(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: How Much Primer? |
In a message dated 10/23/2003 7:44:23 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
joshs(at)ninatek.com writes:
Bruce,
How much does your RV weigh empty? How much of that weight do you attribute
to primer?
Actually weighs 1148 empty, with oil. Excuses are:
0-360 A1A from Vans
Constant Speed Prop
Vacuum System (unnecessary in a VFR airplane and pilot) 20 lb.
Wiring is per Nuccols using a vital/non/vital system with each ground
returning to one of three major ground points. Results in a lot of excess wire,
I
would estimate at least 10 lb.. Being overconservative in wire sizing,
especially in some of the long runs in the wings was at least 5 lb..
Has a copilot brake system and a parking brake, never used yet.
Primer. Gil gave a number of .0133 lb/sqft at 1 mil and 500 sq. feet. I
don't agree with the 500 sq. ft, and I am sure I went at least 1.5 mils average.
Sq. ft ... Wing area 110 X 2 for inside skins minus about 30 for tank
interiors. Ribs, both sides, about 100 sq. ft, spar at least 100 sq. ft if you
think
of the two layers of shear webs for the first half and the stiffeners. All
the flat bars in the caps. require priming because they are not Alcad. Say 400
sq. ft for wing, tail area about 25%, or 100, fues use a 4' box about 20 feet
long is 320. Comes up to around 800 if you add in all the minor parts. There
is no place in my interior where you can see raw aluminum. Using 800 sq. ft
and 1.5 mils with .0133 comes up to an extra 16 lb.. Since I used all of 3
gallons of Dupont self etching primer at about 50% spray efficiency, that might
be low.
Exterior paint is Aerothane with epoxy primer underneath. That is at least
another 32 lb., most likely 50 lb., but worth it.
Interior is cloth fabric on all exposed surfaces, insulation on the firewall
and a rug under the feet and in baggage area. At least 30 lb., probably 10
lb. excessive.
Roughing through all the above numbers gives the difference between a 1,050
LB that sort of shows that Van is correct in his minimum weights, and a 1150
RV-6A. If honesty were a requirement, I would expect a lot of folks would admit
to the fancy IFR with multicolor paint jobs weigh over 1150.
To save weight, my RV-10 won't have primer on the inside except where
required by Vans, will use a single bus for power (with a handheld in the storage
cube), and will use local grounds on all but the fancy electronics that you can't
avoid. Wires will be sized right per the charts, which are conservative to
begin with, only a single light in the wing for landing and visibility in
smutty conditions. No vacuum system and brakes on the drivers side only.
What I consider worth the weight are the interior fabric, a rug under foot
(but not in the luggage room) and firewall insulation, a darn nice paint job on
the outside, except with more attention paid to coverage.
Bruce Patton
(full of opinion)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | How Much Primer? |
Here's my breakdown with my weigh in at 1089lbs with lots of heavy stuff
installed but still came in light in my opinion for what I have. Here's a
list of "things" that could have been made the plane lighter.
AEIO-360 (With Inverted Oil system) & Flop tube in 1 tank.
Sensenich Metal Prop & Spinner
IFR Panel with full Gyros (cageable).
Also single ground points.
Fully insulated from firewall to back of baggage (including under seats).
Full interior fabric
Hooker harnesses.
Electric Flaps.
Dual Brakes
2 Color PPG Urethane Paint (Black/Green).
Next, here's my take on priming. Remember, it's only my personal
opinion....Priming everything is a waste in my opinion (weight & time).
Instead, I alodined everything, including ribs, bulkheads & skins (had nice
big dipping tanks). I used zinc chromate where steel was involved, and a few
areas of primer where I think it is necessary(Lower aft tail, etc..).
Overall, I'm quite happy with my weight (on the plane that is)! Anyway,
1148 is not bad, I've seen much heavier birds out there. I think the
easiest way to keep the weight down is be conscious during the building
process, then be carefull about what you install and where you install it.
I'm just finishing a -6 which has a O-320/FP, VFR panel with ONLY a Dynon
EFIS, Garmin 196, Icom Comm, IK2000 engine monitor, & UPSAT Txpdr. I'm
keeping the interior and exterior simple, and really hoping for a nice
light, simple & fast plane. It will be interesting to compare the two in
another month!
Anyway, I'm now of the opinion that light & simple is best!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minnepolis
http://www.steinair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
BPattonsoa(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: How Much Primer?
In a message dated 10/23/2003 7:44:23 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
joshs(at)ninatek.com writes:
Bruce,
How much does your RV weigh empty? How much of that weight do you attribute
to primer?
Actually weighs 1148 empty, with oil. Excuses are:
0-360 A1A from Vans
Constant Speed Prop
Vacuum System (unnecessary in a VFR airplane and pilot) 20 lb.
Wiring is per Nuccols using a vital/non/vital system with each ground
returning to one of three major ground points. Results in a lot of excess
wire, I
would estimate at least 10 lb..>>>>
Has a copilot brake system and a parking brake, never used yet.
Primer. Gil gave a number of .0133 lb/sqft at 1 mil and 500 sq. feet. I
don't agree with the 500 sq. ft, and I am sure I went at least 1.5 mils
average.
Sq. ft ... Wing area 110 X 2 for inside skins minus about 30 for tank
interiors. Ribs, both sides, about 100 sq. ft, spar at least 100 sq. ft if
you think
of the two layers of shear webs for the first half and the stiffeners. All
the flat bars in the caps. require priming because they are not Alcad. Say
400
sq. ft for wing, tail area about 25%, or 100, fues use a 4' box about 20
feet
long is 320. Comes up to around 800 if you add in all the minor parts.
There
is no place in my interior where you can see raw aluminum. Using 800 sq. ft
and 1.5 mils with .0133 comes up to an extra 16 lb.. Since I used all of 3
gallons of Dupont self etching primer at about 50% spray efficiency, that
might
be low.
Exterior paint is Aerothane with epoxy primer underneath. That is at least
another 32 lb., most likely 50 lb., but worth it.
Interior is cloth fabric on all exposed surfaces, insulation on the firewall
and a rug under the feet and in baggage area. At least 30 lb., probably 10
lb. excessive.
Roughing through all the above numbers gives the difference between a 1,050
LB that sort of shows that Van is correct in his minimum weights, and a 1150
RV-6A. If honesty were a requirement, I would expect a lot of folks would
admit
to the fancy IFR with multicolor paint jobs weigh over 1150.
To save weight, my RV-10 won't have primer on the inside except where
required by Vans, will use a single bus for power (with a handheld in the
storage
cube), and will use local grounds on all but the fancy electronics that you
can't
avoid. Wires will be sized right per the charts, which are conservative to
begin with, only a single light in the wing for landing and visibility in
smutty conditions. No vacuum system and brakes on the drivers side only.
What I consider worth the weight are the interior fabric, a rug under foot
(but not in the luggage room) and firewall insulation, a darn nice paint job
on
the outside, except with more attention paid to coverage.
Bruce Patton
(full of opinion)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: [rv8list] props and spinner spacing |
Scott,
I will be testing the new Whirl Wind 200RV. I just received it today, installed
it tonight, and weighed it before installation: 41 lbs for the complete assembly
including all fasteners compared to 59 for the Hartzell. I'll balance it and
fly it tomorrow, testing could be as soon as next weekend. Information as it
develops will be added to the Prop page on my web site found at...
www.rv-8.com/Prop.htm
Randy Lervold
www.rv-8.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Scott Clarkson
To: rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, October 24, 2003 5:29 PM
Subject: [rv8list] props and spinner spacing
I've spent the last month trying to figure out what prop to order and I still
haven't made up my mind. I think I ruled out the Hartzell models for weight
and vibration issues. I spoke with Whirlwind (really nice people) but can't order
their 3 blade because I'm running Lasar ignition. I'm intrigued by the 2
blade RV model coming out but it won't be till the beginning of the year at best.
I'm leaning toward the MT 3 blade for smoothness and weight savings.
In the archives I've gathered that the spinner/cowling spacing should remain
the same (or close) regardless of what prop I decide to go with. I would like
to install my cowling using the prop simulator spacers and Van's spinner back
plate but the archives warn that Van's recommended 2.250" PVC prop spacers between
the ring gear and spinner back plate are too long. They should be more
like 2.125". Could someone verify the spacer length so I don't toast my cowling
and maybe lend some advice about using this method? I just want be accurate
and keep the project rolling along.
Thanks in advance,
Scott Clarkson
Propellerless in NJ
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
ADVERTISEMENT
Information exchange for builders of Vans Aircraft RV-8 kits.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Questions about Elevators |
| From: | "Wier, Daniel C." <daniel(at)thegreatwhite.net> |
I am having a hard time figuring out how the elevators mount on the
Horizontal Stab. I mounted them on the HZ Stab but the counter weight
seems to be too long or something else is wrong. I have some pictures
here of what it looks like and I just can't figure it out.
http://www.buildtherv7.com/files/DCP_1382.JPG
http://www.buildtherv7.com/files/DCP_1383.JPG
http://www.buildtherv7.com/files/DCP_1384.JPG
http://www.buildtherv7.com/files/DCP_1385.JPG
Forgive my ignorance if it is something easy I am missing.
Thanks,
Daniel Wier
RV-7
Daniel(at)TheGreatWhite.net
www.buildtherv7.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Questions about Elevators |
You've got the new elevator counterweight style, and it looks like Van
hasn't changed the HS skin shape to accommodate it. Just trim the HS skin
so that the counterweight arms clear by 3/16" or so.
I had a similar issue with the old counterweight style and had to trim 1/8"
or so off the HS skin.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wier, Daniel C." <daniel(at)thegreatwhite.net>
Subject: RV-List: Questions about Elevators
>
> I am having a hard time figuring out how the elevators mount on the
> Horizontal Stab. I mounted them on the HZ Stab but the counter weight
> seems to be too long or something else is wrong. I have some pictures
> here of what it looks like and I just can't figure it out.
>
> http://www.buildtherv7.com/files/DCP_1382.JPG
> http://www.buildtherv7.com/files/DCP_1383.JPG
> http://www.buildtherv7.com/files/DCP_1384.JPG
> http://www.buildtherv7.com/files/DCP_1385.JPG
>
> Forgive my ignorance if it is something easy I am missing.
>
> Thanks,
> Daniel Wier
> RV-7
> Daniel(at)TheGreatWhite.net
> www.buildtherv7.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Neil McLeod <neilmcleod(at)direcway.com> |
| Subject: | Re: [rv8list] props and spinner spacing |
Randy,
How about tossing us a bone here, just what is the 200 RV?
Neil McLeod
still searching for the perfect aerobatic prop for my 7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: [rv8list] props and spinner spacing
>
> Scott,
>
> I will be testing the new Whirl Wind 200RV. I just received it today,
installed it tonight, and weighed it before installation: 41 lbs for the
complete assembly including all fasteners compared to 59 for the Hartzell.
I'll balance it and fly it tomorrow, testing could be as soon as next
weekend. Information as it develops will be added to the Prop page on my web
site found at...
> www.rv-8.com/Prop.htm
>
> Randy Lervold
> www.rv-8.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Scott Clarkson
> To: rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Friday, October 24, 2003 5:29 PM
> Subject: [rv8list] props and spinner spacing
>
>
> I've spent the last month trying to figure out what prop to order and I
still haven't made up my mind. I think I ruled out the Hartzell models for
weight and vibration issues. I spoke with Whirlwind (really nice people)
but can't order their 3 blade because I'm running Lasar ignition. I'm
intrigued by the 2 blade RV model coming out but it won't be till the
beginning of the year at best. I'm leaning toward the MT 3 blade for
smoothness and weight savings.
>
> In the archives I've gathered that the spinner/cowling spacing should
remain the same (or close) regardless of what prop I decide to go with. I
would like to install my cowling using the prop simulator spacers and Van's
spinner back plate but the archives warn that Van's recommended 2.250" PVC
prop spacers between the ring gear and spinner back plate are too long.
They should be more like 2.125". Could someone verify the spacer length so
I don't toast my cowling and maybe lend some advice about using this method?
I just want be accurate and keep the project rolling along.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Scott Clarkson
> Propellerless in NJ
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> ADVERTISEMENT
>
>
> Information exchange for builders of Vans Aircraft RV-8 kits.
>
> IF YOU WISH TO UNSUBSCRIBE, PLEASE SEND AN EMAIL TO :
>
> rv8list-unsubscribe(at)egroups.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Questions about Elevators |
Dan;
The horizontal stab skins are supplied a bit oversize in this area to allow
for some variation in building technique, sizing, etc. Simply trim the stab
skin to provide a neat and acceptable gap from the elevator horn. The trim
will all take place outside the stab tip rib so it will be simply cosmetic
in nature. Only important thing is to make sure the gap is as per the plans
to avoid possible inflight control interference and jamming.
Jim Oke
RV-6A C-GKGZ
Wpg., MB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wier, Daniel C." <daniel(at)thegreatwhite.net>
Subject: RV-List: Questions about Elevators
>
> I am having a hard time figuring out how the elevators mount on the
> Horizontal Stab. I mounted them on the HZ Stab but the counter weight
> seems to be too long or something else is wrong. I have some pictures
> here of what it looks like and I just can't figure it out.
>
> http://www.buildtherv7.com/files/DCP_1382.JPG
> http://www.buildtherv7.com/files/DCP_1383.JPG
> http://www.buildtherv7.com/files/DCP_1384.JPG
> http://www.buildtherv7.com/files/DCP_1385.JPG
>
> Forgive my ignorance if it is something easy I am missing.
>
> Thanks,
> Daniel Wier
> RV-7
> Daniel(at)TheGreatWhite.net
> www.buildtherv7.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Questions about Elevators |
| From: | "Wier, Daniel C." <daniel(at)thegreatwhite.net> |
Thank you everyone for your help. I did not realize there is going to
be much modding out from the original plans. This is good for me to
know for the rest of the airframe. I imagine there will be many times
that there will be variants for different styles of builders and things
like that. Again thanks for helping me out.
Daniel Wier
Wilmore, KY - RV-7
www.BuildtheRV7.com
Daniel(at)ThegreatWhite.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Questions about Elevators |
Daniel,
My plans actually call out removing this portion of the HS so the elevator
fits. If yours don't it could be that you just have some outdated plans. I
actually left it as is for a while until I completed almost all the other
steps of the empennage, it's a nice way to keep it attached and stable while
you are working on and around this area.
Karie Daniel
RV-7A QB
Sammamish, WA.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wier, Daniel C." <daniel(at)thegreatwhite.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Questions about Elevators
>
> Thank you everyone for your help. I did not realize there is going to
> be much modding out from the original plans. This is good for me to
> know for the rest of the airframe. I imagine there will be many times
> that there will be variants for different styles of builders and things
> like that. Again thanks for helping me out.
>
> Daniel Wier
> Wilmore, KY - RV-7
> www.BuildtheRV7.com
> Daniel(at)ThegreatWhite.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Painting the Airplane! |
>
> Can anyone offer any assistance/advice about
> designing a
> paint scheme? I have the paper line drawings that Mark
> Frederick (or someone)
> came up with, but was wondering if there is a computer
> program that the complete
> idiot could run?
Les, good question.
One way to design the paint scheme is to make a line drawing of the
appropriate RV - I traced a photo with some appropriate view. Then, I
laid tracing paper over the line drawing, and used various color pens I
bought at an art store to design away. Don't try to make each one
perfect - you might make a hundred different designs. If one catches
your fancy, then hone in on it. I can't imagine doing this step on a
computer - our imaginations run about 100 times faster than you could
make the computer "draw".
Good luck -
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 395 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Dynon Customer Service |
| From: | Don Diehl <diehldon(at)comcast.net> |
Everything went well with my EFIS installation until it came to AOA
calibration.
After a couple of phone conversations Doug Medema, Dynon VP for
Engineering, suggested meeting me at Arlingtion airport. He brought a
computer and Brice, the wizard to run it. A short conversation
identified the cockpit problem.
After pushing the AOA STALL button to start the 45 second timer, then
flying the stall, let the timer time out before doing anything else.
When I let the timer time out, everything worked as advertised.
Doug and Brice were most generous with their time providing a critique
and fine tuning of my installation.
This is customer service above and beyond any standards I have
experienced with aviation products.
ATTA BOY Dynon, way to go!
Don Diehl
Bremerton WA
RV-4, N28EW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 firewall duct location? |
-8 Builders,
Is there any accepted best (X-Y) location through a -8 firewall for cockpit
heater duct entrance? Your knowledge and/or experience much appreciated.
Guessing this work easier done before hanging engine, right? Thanks in
advance.
Jack
Cheer a special someone with a fun Halloween eCard from American Greetings!
Go to http://www.msn.americangreetings.com/index_msn.pd?source=msne134
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles L. Cotton" <charles(at)cottonfamily.com> |
| Subject: | RV-7 Elevator horn problem |
Guys:
I have a problem with the left elevator horn. The holes attaching it to
the rib are fine, but the horn does not "mate" to the spar. It appears the
root rib is set too far inboard, especially when compared to the right
elevator horn that fit perfectly. Has anyone had this problem? I'll call
Van's on Monday, but it sure brings things to a halt for this weekend!
Photos at
http://www.cottonfamily.com/RV-7A_Project/images/Construction/Problems/Problem_photos
Thanks,
Chas.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | firesleeve prop governor hose |
On my AeroSport IO-360, the prop governor oil hose is firesleeved...that's
how it came from Bart. I'm curious if firesleeve is required and/or advised
for this hose, i.e. it's considered bad practice NOT to firesleeve it.
The reason I'm asking is because removing the firesleeve is going to
simplify being able to install the hose through the front baffle.
Otherwise, with the firesleeve and its clamp in place, the hole in the front
baffle floor needs to be huuuge.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 firewall duct location? |
>-8 Builders,
>
>Is there any accepted best (X-Y) location through a -8 firewall for cockpit
>heater duct entrance? Your knowledge and/or experience much appreciated.
>Guessing this work easier done before hanging engine, right? Thanks in
>advance.
>
>Jack
Mine is dead center, exiting between the rudder pedals. Your back seater
isn't going to get much of it anyway, so don't be too concerned with exact
positioning. It is easier to install it with the engine not yet installed on
the airplane.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 40051
Surf and talk on the phone at the same time with broadband Internet access.
Get high-speed for as low as $29.95/month (depending on the local service
providers in your area). https://broadband.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: [rv8list] props and spinner spacing |
The 200RV is a new 2-blade model designed specifically for RVs. It uses a
McCauley 215 hub instead of the 220 hub of the 200C. This hub is smaller and
lighter and better suited for the RV. It then has a brand new airfoil that
Jim Rust came up with after consulting with a couple of industry gurus.
I'll post pics of it probably tomorrow. I flew it today but didn't do any
testing.
Randy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Neil McLeod" <neilmcleod(at)direcway.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: [rv8list] props and spinner spacing
>
> Randy,
>
> How about tossing us a bone here, just what is the 200 RV?
>
> Neil McLeod
> still searching for the perfect aerobatic prop for my 7
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
> To: ; ;
>
> Subject: RV-List: Re: [rv8list] props and spinner spacing
>
>
> >
> > Scott,
> >
> > I will be testing the new Whirl Wind 200RV. I just received it today,
> installed it tonight, and weighed it before installation: 41 lbs for the
> complete assembly including all fasteners compared to 59 for the Hartzell.
> I'll balance it and fly it tomorrow, testing could be as soon as next
> weekend. Information as it develops will be added to the Prop page on my
web
> site found at...
> > www.rv-8.com/Prop.htm
> >
> > Randy Lervold
> > www.rv-8.com
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Scott Clarkson
> > To: rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Friday, October 24, 2003 5:29 PM
> > Subject: [rv8list] props and spinner spacing
> >
> >
> > I've spent the last month trying to figure out what prop to order and
I
> still haven't made up my mind. I think I ruled out the Hartzell models
for
> weight and vibration issues. I spoke with Whirlwind (really nice people)
> but can't order their 3 blade because I'm running Lasar ignition. I'm
> intrigued by the 2 blade RV model coming out but it won't be till the
> beginning of the year at best. I'm leaning toward the MT 3 blade for
> smoothness and weight savings.
> >
> > In the archives I've gathered that the spinner/cowling spacing should
> remain the same (or close) regardless of what prop I decide to go with. I
> would like to install my cowling using the prop simulator spacers and
Van's
> spinner back plate but the archives warn that Van's recommended 2.250" PVC
> prop spacers between the ring gear and spinner back plate are too long.
> They should be more like 2.125". Could someone verify the spacer length
so
> I don't toast my cowling and maybe lend some advice about using this
method?
> I just want be accurate and keep the project rolling along.
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> > Scott Clarkson
> > Propellerless in NJ
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> > ADVERTISEMENT
> >
> >
> > Information exchange for builders of Vans Aircraft RV-8 kits.
> >
> > IF YOU WISH TO UNSUBSCRIBE, PLEASE SEND AN EMAIL TO :
> >
> > rv8list-unsubscribe(at)egroups.com
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: firesleeve prop governor hose |
Hi Dan,
Do try to keep the firesleeve on the governor hose.
The engine Guru says, it will help insure longest life of the hose. there is
a lot of heat radiated off the exhaust down there. Note that the ends of the
firesleeve are sealed with an rtv type of sealant to keep oil mist from
collecting inside the firesleeve. this is an effort to isolate the hose
inside the stainless shroud from oil, moisture etc. I have done the same
with all the other firesleeved hoses.
Happy baffling,
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: RV-List: firesleeve prop governor hose
>
> On my AeroSport IO-360, the prop governor oil hose is firesleeved...that's
> how it came from Bart. I'm curious if firesleeve is required and/or
advised
> for this hose, i.e. it's considered bad practice NOT to firesleeve it.
>
> The reason I'm asking is because removing the firesleeve is going to
> simplify being able to install the hose through the front baffle.
> Otherwise, with the firesleeve and its clamp in place, the hole in the
front
> baffle floor needs to be huuuge.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-7 Elevator horn problem |
| From: | "Wier, Daniel C." <daniel(at)thegreatwhite.net> |
I seemed to have this same problem on mine as well. I managed to get
the holes to line up by taking the E-705 Rib and re-bending the flange
that rivets to E-702. I came to this conclusion after holding the skin
to the frame and seeing that the holes in the skin were no lined up
either. By bending the flange to a more 90 degree angle instead of the
kind of roundedness you can see of it in your pictures, it all lined up
for me. Since you already have yours riveted together the challenge I
imagine would be bending this still on the frame.
Hope that information helps you a bit.
Thanks,
Daniel Wier RV-7
www.buildtherv7.com
Daniel(at)ThegreatWhite.net
-----Original Message-----
From: Charles L. Cotton [mailto:charles(at)cottonfamily.com]
Guys:
I have a problem with the left elevator horn. The holes
attaching it to
the rib are fine, but the horn does not "mate" to the spar. It appears
the
root rib is set too far inboard, especially when compared to the right
elevator horn that fit perfectly. Has anyone had this problem? I'll
call
Van's on Monday, but it sure brings things to a halt for this weekend!
Photos at
http://www.cottonfamily.com/RV-7A_Project/images/Construction/Problems/P
roblem_photos
Thanks,
Chas.
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Ghost" <daveghost(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RV-7 - Edge distance on HS-405 |
I noticed after match-drilling the HS-601 (skin) to the to the skeleton,
that the edge distance on the forward-most hole on the HS-405 flange (where
it slips into the flange of the HS-702) is not much more than 1 diameter.
This is measured from the forward (or short) edge of the flange, not the
inboard long edge. It would seem Im having trouble getting the 405 to slip
far enough into the 702. Does anyone have advice on how to get a more
acceptable edge distance in that area? Im ordering another 702 and 405 to
attempt to get a bit more margin, and sure could use a bit of advice from
someone whos had success with this.
Thanks in advance,
Dave
RV-7 Empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Neil McLeod <neilmcleod(at)direcway.com> |
| Subject: | Re: [rv8list] props and spinner spacing |
Thanks Randy,
What I was hoping for was somthing with a little less diameter for us side
by side guys.
Looking forward to your flight report!
Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: [rv8list] props and spinner spacing
>
> The 200RV is a new 2-blade model designed specifically for RVs. It uses a
> McCauley 215 hub instead of the 220 hub of the 200C. This hub is smaller
and
> lighter and better suited for the RV. It then has a brand new airfoil that
> Jim Rust came up with after consulting with a couple of industry gurus.
>
> I'll post pics of it probably tomorrow. I flew it today but didn't do any
> testing.
>
> Randy
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Neil McLeod" <neilmcleod(at)direcway.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: [rv8list] props and spinner spacing
>
>
> >
> > Randy,
> >
> > How about tossing us a bone here, just what is the 200 RV?
> >
> > Neil McLeod
> > still searching for the perfect aerobatic prop for my 7
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
> > To: ; ;
> >
> > Subject: RV-List: Re: [rv8list] props and spinner spacing
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Scott,
> > >
> > > I will be testing the new Whirl Wind 200RV. I just received it today,
> > installed it tonight, and weighed it before installation: 41 lbs for the
> > complete assembly including all fasteners compared to 59 for the
Hartzell.
> > I'll balance it and fly it tomorrow, testing could be as soon as next
> > weekend. Information as it develops will be added to the Prop page on my
> web
> > site found at...
> > > www.rv-8.com/Prop.htm
> > >
> > > Randy Lervold
> > > www.rv-8.com
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Scott Clarkson
> > > To: rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com
> > > Sent: Friday, October 24, 2003 5:29 PM
> > > Subject: [rv8list] props and spinner spacing
> > >
> > >
> > > I've spent the last month trying to figure out what prop to order
and
> I
> > still haven't made up my mind. I think I ruled out the Hartzell models
> for
> > weight and vibration issues. I spoke with Whirlwind (really nice
people)
> > but can't order their 3 blade because I'm running Lasar ignition. I'm
> > intrigued by the 2 blade RV model coming out but it won't be till the
> > beginning of the year at best. I'm leaning toward the MT 3 blade for
> > smoothness and weight savings.
> > >
> > > In the archives I've gathered that the spinner/cowling spacing
should
> > remain the same (or close) regardless of what prop I decide to go with.
I
> > would like to install my cowling using the prop simulator spacers and
> Van's
> > spinner back plate but the archives warn that Van's recommended 2.250"
PVC
> > prop spacers between the ring gear and spinner back plate are too long.
> > They should be more like 2.125". Could someone verify the spacer length
> so
> > I don't toast my cowling and maybe lend some advice about using this
> method?
> > I just want be accurate and keep the project rolling along.
> > >
> > > Thanks in advance,
> > > Scott Clarkson
> > > Propellerless in NJ
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > >
> > > ADVERTISEMENT
> > >
> > >
> > > Information exchange for builders of Vans Aircraft RV-8 kits.
> > >
> > > IF YOU WISH TO UNSUBSCRIBE, PLEASE SEND AN EMAIL TO :
> > >
> > > rv8list-unsubscribe(at)egroups.com
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
I am ordering a new Sensenich 85" pitch propeller for my RV6
(under 1,000 lbs.) tomorrow but would like feedback on the Sensenich
metal spinner. Seems like the way to go unless I am missing something?
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 firewall duct location? |
My duct is beneath the battery tray on the firewall. This makes for a
real short scat tube run from the right exhaust. It enters in the deep
part of the fwd baggage, where more scat tube runs aft to the baggage
wall next to the gear box. An eyeball vent directs the heat from there.
I've dedicated the deep part of the fwd baggage compartment to utility
closet status. I have the scat tube, wires and a grounding block down
there. I'll eventually make a cover or door that goes across the top to
extend the baggage floor all the way across. No regrets so far....
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jack Blomgren [mailto:jackanet(at)hotmail.com]
> Sent: Saturday, October 25, 2003 9:24 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RV-8 firewall duct location?
>
>
>
> -8 Builders,
>
> Is there any accepted best (X-Y) location through a -8
> firewall for cockpit
> heater duct entrance? Your knowledge and/or experience much
> appreciated.
> Guessing this work easier done before hanging engine, right?
> Thanks in
> advance.
>
> Jack
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neil Henderson" <neil.mo51(at)btopenworld.com> |
| Subject: | Van's Windscreen Antenna |
Listers
I'm thinking of using the Van's style windscreen mounted comm's antenna. At $7
I assume it can only be a BNC bulkhead connector and a length of self adhisive
copper tape. As I have both items to hand in my tool box this could be a very
economic route to take. Could anyone who has installed one confirm my assumption
and does the installation perform sarisfactorily.
Neil Henderson RV9-A Nr Aylesbury UK
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: [rv8list] props and spinner spacing |
Fear not, the 200RV is a 72" diameter and will work on any RV.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Neil McLeod" <neilmcleod(at)direcway.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: [rv8list] props and spinner spacing
>
> Thanks Randy,
>
> What I was hoping for was somthing with a little less diameter for us side
> by side guys.
> Looking forward to your flight report!
>
> Neil
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: [rv8list] props and spinner spacing
>
>
> >
> > The 200RV is a new 2-blade model designed specifically for RVs. It uses
a
> > McCauley 215 hub instead of the 220 hub of the 200C. This hub is smaller
> and
> > lighter and better suited for the RV. It then has a brand new airfoil
that
> > Jim Rust came up with after consulting with a couple of industry gurus.
> >
> > I'll post pics of it probably tomorrow. I flew it today but didn't do
any
> > testing.
> >
> > Randy
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Neil McLeod" <neilmcleod(at)direcway.com>
> > To:
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: [rv8list] props and spinner spacing
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Randy,
> > >
> > > How about tossing us a bone here, just what is the 200 RV?
> > >
> > > Neil McLeod
> > > still searching for the perfect aerobatic prop for my 7
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
> > > To: ; ;
> > >
> > > Subject: RV-List: Re: [rv8list] props and spinner spacing
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > Scott,
> > > >
> > > > I will be testing the new Whirl Wind 200RV. I just received it
today,
> > > installed it tonight, and weighed it before installation: 41 lbs for
the
> > > complete assembly including all fasteners compared to 59 for the
> Hartzell.
> > > I'll balance it and fly it tomorrow, testing could be as soon as next
> > > weekend. Information as it develops will be added to the Prop page on
my
> > web
> > > site found at...
> > > > www.rv-8.com/Prop.htm
> > > >
> > > > Randy Lervold
> > > > www.rv-8.com
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: Scott Clarkson
> > > > To: rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com
> > > > Sent: Friday, October 24, 2003 5:29 PM
> > > > Subject: [rv8list] props and spinner spacing
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > I've spent the last month trying to figure out what prop to order
> and
> > I
> > > still haven't made up my mind. I think I ruled out the Hartzell
models
> > for
> > > weight and vibration issues. I spoke with Whirlwind (really nice
> people)
> > > but can't order their 3 blade because I'm running Lasar ignition. I'm
> > > intrigued by the 2 blade RV model coming out but it won't be till the
> > > beginning of the year at best. I'm leaning toward the MT 3 blade for
> > > smoothness and weight savings.
> > > >
> > > > In the archives I've gathered that the spinner/cowling spacing
> should
> > > remain the same (or close) regardless of what prop I decide to go
with.
> I
> > > would like to install my cowling using the prop simulator spacers and
> > Van's
> > > spinner back plate but the archives warn that Van's recommended 2.250"
> PVC
> > > prop spacers between the ring gear and spinner back plate are too
long.
> > > They should be more like 2.125". Could someone verify the spacer
length
> > so
> > > I don't toast my cowling and maybe lend some advice about using this
> > method?
> > > I just want be accurate and keep the project rolling along.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks in advance,
> > > > Scott Clarkson
> > > > Propellerless in NJ
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ADVERTISEMENT
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Information exchange for builders of Vans Aircraft RV-8 kits.
> > > >
> > > > IF YOU WISH TO UNSUBSCRIBE, PLEASE SEND AN EMAIL TO :
> > > >
> > > > rv8list-unsubscribe(at)egroups.com
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: oil cooler flow direction |
Having the oil flow up might be better to eliminate air pockets and bubbles.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: RV-List: oil cooler flow direction
>
> Is there a hard and fast rule about which direction the oil should flow in
a
> vertically oriented oil cooler? According to Van's fwf kit drawings, the
> oil should flow UP through the cooler, flowing into the bottom port and
out
> of the top port.
>
> Does oil cooling suffer in any way if you reverse the flow, so that the
oil
> flows into the top port and flows DOWN through the cooler?
>
> Just wanted to get the skinny on this before I decide what my oil cooler
> hose setup will be. In some ways it will be much easier to have oil
flowing
> DOWN through the cooler. The Jihostroj governor bracket really gets in
the
> way!
>
> Thanks in advance,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: firesleeve prop governor hose |
>
> Do try to keep the firesleeve on the governor hose.
> The engine Guru says, it will help insure longest life of the hose. there
is
> a lot of heat radiated off the exhaust down there. Note that the ends of
the
> firesleeve are sealed with an rtv type of sealant to keep oil mist from
> collecting inside the firesleeve. this is an effort to isolate the hose
> inside the stainless shroud from oil, moisture etc. I have done the same
> with all the other firesleeved hoses.
>
Yes, the hole is somewhat large but very doable. My flying RV-4 with my
Aerosport engine uses this same configuration and I didn't find it a
problem. Yes, I would definitely retain the firesleeve.
Doug Weiler
RV-4, N722DW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: firesleeve prop governor hose |
Dan:
The Lycoming HOSE has firesleeve on it. I had my own 3,000 PSI Teflon with
stainless braind hose made for my governor. It does NOT have firesleeve on
it like the Lycoming part does. Been flying it for over 6 years now.
Leave the firesleeve on to keep your engine as close to certification as
possible but from experience on one airplane, it is not necessary.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,389 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: RV-List: firesleeve prop governor hose
Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2003 21:25:02 -0700
On my AeroSport IO-360, the prop governor oil hose is firesleeved...that's
how it came from Bart. I'm curious if firesleeve is required and/or advised
for this hose, i.e. it's considered bad practice NOT to firesleeve it.
The reason I'm asking is because removing the firesleeve is going to
simplify being able to install the hose through the front baffle.
Otherwise, with the firesleeve and its clamp in place, the hole in the front
baffle floor needs to be huuuge.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Enjoy MSN 8 patented spam control and more with MSN 8 Dial-up Internet
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | firesleeve prop governor hose |
>
> The Lycoming HOSE has firesleeve on it. I had my own 3,000
> PSI Teflon with
> stainless braind hose made for my governor. It does NOT have
> firesleeve on
> it like the Lycoming part does. Been flying it for over 6 years now.
>
> Leave the firesleeve on to keep your engine as close to
> certification as
> possible but from experience on one airplane, it is not necessary.
I would suspect that during normal operations, firesleeve is rarely
necessary. They are needed when an exhaust pipe cracks, or a cylinder
cracks, and hot gasses are blown onto the hose. Or, heaven forbid, a
fire occurs. The idea is to minimize adding fuel (oil) to an already
bad situation. A couple minutes could make the difference between a bad
day and a really bad day.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 395 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Sheet metal brake |
I need to bend some aluminum sheet to make some brackets for mounting things
like the magnetometer and the DVD drive for my BMA EFIS/one, so I have been
thinking about buying a bending brake or possibly a combination
shear/brake/roll forming tool like the ones that Grizzly tools sell. Do any
of you who have worked with such equipment have any suggestions? Can I do
what I need to do with tools I might already have.
Thanks.
Terry
RV-8A finishing
Seattle (Lake Forest Park) WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kosta Lewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | dipstick & tube--help |
> A neat way to make new marks on a dipstick is to lightly score the
stick
> with a tubing cutter.
Then you file 3 areas sort of flat next to the scribed areas and stamp
them 4, 5 and 6 with your number dies.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sheet metal brake |
Yeah, when you buy a sheet metal brake to set sheet aluminum, make sure
the die nose is radiused sufficiently, don't get a (cheap) brake with
dies which have sharp corners (like a pan brake), you'll set yourself up
for frustration and failure due to cracking.
At least, if you buy a cheap brake like a chicago something or other,
which are not bad brakes, grind a radius on the dies or have somebody
grind a preset radius for you.
Gert
Terry Watson wrote:
>
> I need to bend some aluminum sheet to make some brackets for mounting things
> like the magnetometer and the DVD drive for my BMA EFIS/one, so I have been
> thinking about buying a bending brake or possibly a combination
> shear/brake/roll forming tool like the ones that Grizzly tools sell. Do any
> of you who have worked with such equipment have any suggestions? Can I do
> what I need to do with tools I might already have.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Terry
> RV-8A finishing
> Seattle (Lake Forest Park) WA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
>
> I am ordering a new Sensenich 85" pitch propeller for my RV6
>(under 1,000 lbs.) tomorrow but would like feedback on the Sensenich
>metal spinner. Seems like the way to go unless I am missing something?
I'm happy with mine. 85" is right for the 180. Wood is cheaper, smoother,
lighter while CS is....
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Sheet metal brake |
--snip--
>
> Yeah, when you buy a sheet metal brake to set sheet aluminum, make sure
> the die nose is radiused sufficiently,
I recently bought a Magnabrake (electromagnetic brake). It has fairly sharp
radius dies, but the manual shows how you can use drill rod to make bends with
more generous radii. I don't know if that's feasible on a conventional brake.
(I expect the Magnabrake is prohibively expensive for most builders, but I got
mine, used, at a very good price.)
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob n' Lu Olds" <oldsfolks(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: >Re:Sheet Metal Brake |
I use a 24" brake from Harbor Freight Tools and am happy with it. I bent a strip
of galvanized tin to fit around the nose for a radius to bend aluminum. Soft
.040 aluminum would work too.
I have bent all I needed to bend for our RV-4 with it.
$120 from: http://www.harborfreight.com
Bob Olds RV-4
Charleston,Arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
I have the metal spinner and 85" prop. I REALLY like the spinner, mostly
because it comes out of the box ready to mount. Everything is straight,
true, no cutting or trimming and it tracks perfectly. I now have two of
them, one on my 360 powered RV6 and another on my 320 powered -6. Both are
beatiful.
That being said, I have them because I bought the props used (25hrs) and
they came with the spinner. I'm not so sure that I would pop $400+ for one,
but that's mainly because I'm cheap, hence the reason for buying two second
hand props in the first place.
Regarding the 85" pitch, it seems about perfect for my 180/-6. I could use
an 87" at cruise, since I can easily spin up to 2800 RPM at almost any
altitude, but the additional 2" would cost in static RPM on the ground. As
it is, I only get 2150RPM static, so I don't want to lose much more. Gives
me cruise speeds of anywhere from 175-200mph depending on who's paying for
fuel.
Anyway best of luck, the metal spinners are really nice, but quite pricey.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of J. R. Dial
Subject: RV-List: Propeller
I am ordering a new Sensenich 85" pitch propeller for my RV6
(under 1,000 lbs.) tomorrow but would like feedback on the Sensenich
metal spinner. Seems like the way to go unless I am missing something?
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcel" <mbourgon(at)elp.rr.com> |
I have a simple question I think of all propellers installers. We have set
propeller and I am setting the spinner. The unit we are using is a constant
speed
Hartzell propeller and I was wondering how much gap should be left around
the properler so it work properly. Right now we have the spinner on and it
is good and tight with the blades. I know we need to have room around blade
I just need some one to tell me how much room is the right amount.
Thanks
Marcel in El Paso
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Propeller
>
> I have the metal spinner and 85" prop. I REALLY like the spinner, mostly
> because it comes out of the box ready to mount. Everything is straight,
> true, no cutting or trimming and it tracks perfectly. I now have two of
> them, one on my 360 powered RV6 and another on my 320 powered -6. Both
are
> beatiful.
>
> That being said, I have them because I bought the props used (25hrs) and
> they came with the spinner. I'm not so sure that I would pop $400+ for
one,
> but that's mainly because I'm cheap, hence the reason for buying two
second
> hand props in the first place.
>
> Regarding the 85" pitch, it seems about perfect for my 180/-6. I could
use
> an 87" at cruise, since I can easily spin up to 2800 RPM at almost any
> altitude, but the additional 2" would cost in static RPM on the ground.
As
> it is, I only get 2150RPM static, so I don't want to lose much more.
Gives
> me cruise speeds of anywhere from 175-200mph depending on who's paying for
> fuel.
>
> Anyway best of luck, the metal spinners are really nice, but quite pricey.
>
> Cheers,
> Stein Bruch
> RV6's, Minneapolis
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of J. R. Dial
> To: RV-List
> Subject: RV-List: Propeller
>
>
> I am ordering a new Sensenich 85" pitch propeller for my RV6
> (under 1,000 lbs.) tomorrow but would like feedback on the Sensenich
> metal spinner. Seems like the way to go unless I am missing something?
> Thanks
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | a flyer <aflyer(at)direcway.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sheet metal brake |
I have the combo 30" shear/brake/roller (Chinese made) from Harbor Freight.
I had it before I started, and I used it a ton. I think it is well worth the
money. It gets borrowed alot, but they always come to your shop, because it
weighs 350 lbs. The bending tool does have a radius on the nose.
John Huft RV8
Pagosa Springs, CO
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com>
Subject: RV-List: Sheet metal brake
>
> I need to bend some aluminum sheet to make some brackets for mounting
things
> like the magnetometer and the DVD drive for my BMA EFIS/one, so I have
been
> thinking about buying a bending brake or possibly a combination
> shear/brake/roll forming tool like the ones that Grizzly tools sell. Do
any
> of you who have worked with such equipment have any suggestions? Can I do
> what I need to do with tools I might already have.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Terry
> RV-8A finishing
> Seattle (Lake Forest Park) WA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
HTML_WITH_BGCOLOR
I'd like to hear from anyone that feels, after having already done it, they
have selected the right place to put the ground buss bolt through the
firewall. I am looking at the indented/recessed area that is space for
the oil filter. The area looks clean on the pilot side of the firewall for
receiving a bunch of ground wires. And it is close to the negative battery
post.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
On Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: >Re:Sheet Metal Brake |
Yup, got the same one, I gues, and I have done the same, sticking other
material under it to get some sort of radius, i found that the dies
don't do far enough back for the bigger radii.
Bob n' Lu Olds wrote:
>
> I use a 24" brake from Harbor Freight Tools and am happy with it. I bent a strip
of galvanized tin to fit around the nose for a radius to bend aluminum. Soft
.040 aluminum would work too.
> I have bent all I needed to bend for our RV-4 with it.
> $120 from: http://www.harborfreight.com
> Bob Olds RV-4
> Charleston,Arkansas
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
A number of people watching the RV List have asked why we are still using engines
that are 50 plus years old technology and also expensive.
Van covered this subject at length in a recent RV-ator and feels that the Lycoming's
are still the best choice for his aircraft.
I am aware of a number of companies out there that are putting a huge effort into
trying to come up with an alternate engine and my hat is off to them.
With the RV 10 coming on line and having had the opportunity to fly this remarkable
aircraft at Van' home comeing I can see a huge demand for an engine in the
260 HP category. The RV 10 has really got my adrenaline pumping so I have been
doing some research as to what the final cost would be to build one.
I looked at some of the alternate engines under development and found nothing that
comes close to the I0540 Lycoming all things considered. One in particular
caught my eye, burns Jet A and uses the latest technology but when I got into
the nuts and bolts of it turned out to be a disappointment. It is 30 HP shy,
is much heavier and the price quoted me was in the seventy thousand dollar range,
this did however include the prop and engine mount. Using a price of say sixty-five
thousand to compare it to an Aero Sport I0540 at $ 27700.00 the difference
would be $ 37300.00. This would buy some 17 to 18000 gals of av-gas, if
one was to fly 100 hrs.a year with the RV 10 at say 12 gals an hour it would
take 14-15 years to use it up.
Another thing one could do would be invest the $ 37300.00 at say 5%, this would
give a return of $1865.00 which would give you enough fuel for around 155 hours
of flying a year
But apart from all this prattle the bottom line is safety. We as builders have
a responsibility to our passengers and family to fly accident free if we possibly
can. To do this we have to go with an engine either new or a quality overhaul
that we know will go it's recommended time between overhaul's if flown and
maintained properly without a failure. This now becomes even more important
with the RV 10 when we will now be carrying up to three passengers.
I am wondering if with the large number of RV 10's that have already been sold
good I0540 cores for overhaul may become harder to come by and the price may
go up.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis and Stephanie Smith" <famflier(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV 10 Engines |
Eustace
I wish there were some other good engine options for the RV-10. I have
started my kit already, but have not purchased an engine yet.
I think the turbo diesel would be a great option if it were more available,
but more than likely I will go with a IO-540. Wish I didn't have to spend
that much money, but right now I think it is the best option.
You are probably right about the availability of good cores for rebuilding.
Might be hard to come by. Doesn't a new IO-540 run about $37K?
Best of luck.
Dennis in Oregon
-------Original Message-------
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Sunday, October 26, 2003 7:41:45 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV 10 Engines
A number of people watching the RV List have asked why we are still using
engines that are 50 plus years old technology and also expensive.
Van covered this subject at length in a recent RV-ator and feels that the
Lycoming's are still the best choice for his aircraft.
I am aware of a number of companies out there that are putting a huge effort
into trying to come up with an alternate engine and my hat is off to them
With the RV 10 coming on line and having had the opportunity to fly this
remarkable aircraft at Van' home comeing I can see a huge demand for an
engine in the 260 HP category. The RV 10 has really got my adrenaline
pumping so I have been doing some research as to what the final cost would
be to build one.
I looked at some of the alternate engines under development and found
nothing that comes close to the I0540 Lycoming all things considered. One in
particular caught my eye, burns Jet A and uses the latest technology but
when I got into the nuts and bolts of it turned out to be a disappointment.
It is 30 HP shy, is much heavier and the price quoted me was in the seventy
thousand dollar range, this did however include the prop and engine mount
Using a price of say sixty-five thousand to compare it to an Aero Sport
I0540 at $ 27700.00 the difference would be $ 37300.00. This would buy some
17 to 18000 gals of av-gas, if one was to fly 100 hrs.a year with the RV 10
at say 12 gals an hour it would take 14-15 years to use it up.
Another thing one could do would be invest the $ 37300.00 at say 5%, this
would give a return of $1865.00 which would give you enough fuel for around
155 hours of flying a year
But apart from all this prattle the bottom line is safety. We as builders
have a responsibility to our passengers and family to fly accident free if
we possibly can. To do this we have to go with an engine either new or a
quality overhaul that we know will go it's recommended time between overhaul
s if flown and maintained properly without a failure. This now becomes even
more important with the RV 10 when we will now be carrying up to three
passengers.
I am wondering if with the large number of RV 10's that have already been
sold good I0540 cores for overhaul may become harder to come by and the
price may go up.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | RV Builder IM Network |
Ok, I'm either going off the deep end, or I'm taking the internet to its
next logical step in the context of RV building resources...
http://www.rvproject.com/im
Let me know what you think! If you're interested in joining and being
listed, just IM me.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
(for the archive: instant message messaging yahoo aim aol msn icq trillian)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV 10 Engines |
The guys at www.crossflow.com are developing a FWF Subaru for the RV 10.
Turbocharged normalized to 12000 ft. I've got a 200 hp version on order for
my -7. They are great to work with and I believe will be a force in the RV
market. I plan to have mine flying in April 04.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net>
Subject: RV-List: RV 10 Engines
>
> A number of people watching the RV List have asked why we are still using
engines that are 50 plus years old technology and also expensive.
>
> Van covered this subject at length in a recent RV-ator and feels that the
Lycoming's are still the best choice for his aircraft.
>
> I am aware of a number of companies out there that are putting a huge
effort into trying to come up with an alternate engine and my hat is off to
them.
>
> With the RV 10 coming on line and having had the opportunity to fly this
remarkable aircraft at Van' home comeing I can see a huge demand for an
engine in the 260 HP category. The RV 10 has really got my adrenaline
pumping so I have been doing some research as to what the final cost would
be to build one.
>
> I looked at some of the alternate engines under development and found
nothing that comes close to the I0540 Lycoming all things considered. One in
particular caught my eye, burns Jet A and uses the latest technology but
when I got into the nuts and bolts of it turned out to be a disappointment.
It is 30 HP shy, is much heavier and the price quoted me was in the seventy
thousand dollar range, this did however include the prop and engine mount.
Using a price of say sixty-five thousand to compare it to an Aero Sport
I0540 at $ 27700.00 the difference would be $ 37300.00. This would buy some
17 to 18000 gals of av-gas, if one was to fly 100 hrs.a year with the RV 10
at say 12 gals an hour it would take 14-15 years to use it up.
>
> Another thing one could do would be invest the $ 37300.00 at say 5%, this
would give a return of $1865.00 which would give you enough fuel for around
155 hours of flying a year
>
> But apart from all this prattle the bottom line is safety. We as builders
have a responsibility to our passengers and family to fly accident free if
we possibly can. To do this we have to go with an engine either new or a
quality overhaul that we know will go it's recommended time between
overhaul's if flown and maintained properly without a failure. This now
becomes even more important with the RV 10 when we will now be carrying up
to three passengers.
>
> I am wondering if with the large number of RV 10's that have already
been sold good I0540 cores for overhaul may become harder to come by and the
price may go up.
>
> Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "GMC" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca> |
Subject: RV-List: RV7 Ground Buss
I'd like to hear from anyone that feels, after having already done it, they
have selected the right place to put the ground buss bolt through the
firewall. I am looking at the indented/recessed area that is space for
the oil filter. The area looks clean on the pilot side of the firewall for
receiving a bunch of ground wires. And it is close to the negative battery
post.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
On Finish Kit
Hi Larry
My experience is with my 6A so your -7 may be slightly different, however
one non-electrical consideration. If you have a oil filter you may not want
to have wires in the area where you will be removing the old oil filter.
It's hard to get the old filter out around wires and cables without spilling
oil and making a mess.
Suggest you put the ground block inside firewall about six inches right
(looking forward) of the firewall cutout and at or above oil filter height.
Run a stud through the brass ground block with inside of stud connected to
battery (-) and engine ground strap on forward side of stud.
My 0-320 had a nice spot for a ground strap near base of oil dipstick tube.
George McNutt
Langley BC
(Five filter changes!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 10/26/2003 4:26:53 PM Pacific Standard Time,
mbourgon(at)elp.rr.com writes:
I have a simple question I think of all propellers installers. We have set
propeller and I am setting the spinner. The unit we are using is a constant
speed
Hartzell propeller and I was wondering how much gap should be left around
the properler so it work properly. Right now we have the spinner on and it
is good and tight with the blades. I know we need to have room around blade
I just need some one to tell me how much room is the right amount.
1mm (.040").
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 671hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
First run of my light speed ignition yesterday (actually 2nd, but I'll get
into that later). I've got a Light Speed on the right side and a new slick
mag on the left. This was just a ground run to be sure all was working. It
seems to be, but with some interesting observations.
The efficiency of the LSE was the first as evidenced by (mag) drop tests.
Shutting down the mag at 1700 rpm (running only on the LSE) yields almost
zero rpm drop. I can barely see the tach hand move. Although there is
about a 20 degree egt rise. Used to be about 60 degrees when shutting down
one mag. On the other hand, shutting down the LSE (running only on the mag)
yields almost 100 rpm drop which is more than I'm used to. I'm wondering if
this is showing a problem with the mag or timing (the timing is very close);
or more evidence of the superior efficiency of the LSE. Has anyone else
with an LSE seen this?
The 2nd new observation regards egt differences. Used to be that each
clylinder's egt would fluctuate a bit. They were fairly close, but which
was the hottest would vary during any particular condition. Now (after just
15 or so minutes of ground run) It seems that #3 and 4 are pegged together
moving as one, as are #1 and 2. And with 3&4 hotter by 30-40 degrees. I
note that the LSE uses 2 coils. One fires 1&2 and the other firing 3&4.
I'm gussing this is showing that one coil (probably 1&2) is firing stronger
than the other, but I'll watch this for a while and see how it plays out in
normal operation. Any comments? Anybody else running an LSE seeing this?
About the first operational attempt: The first time I started up the engine
with the LSE, cylinders 3 and 4 would not fire with the mag off. A call to
Clause suggested checking the gap between the flywheel mounted magnets and
the sensors on the LSE ring which bolts into the front of the engine. LSE's
instructions say this gap should be between .020 and .070. My gaps were
.072 on the magnet that picks up TDC and .092 on the magnet that picks up
the advance position (I think it's 42 degrees BTDC) The difference on my
two measurements is because when LSE installed the magnets on the flywheel,
they were a bit sloppy in how deeply they were drilled; one being about .020
below the rim of the flywheel and the other about .035" too deep. I don't
really understand why being so slightly off would cause the unit to not fire
at all, and beyond that, why only the coil for #3 & 4 would be affected.
Perhaps there is some weakness in that coil side which may explain the
slightly hotter EGTs on that side now that it is running.
Anyway, Clause said to get those figures in specs, which I did by shimming
in the LSE sensor ring about .032" with a couple of thin washers at each of
the attach points. That did the trick, and with the exception of the slight
anomolies mentioned above, the engine feels and runs smoothly. I'll know
more after a couple test flights
...and one more question for those running an LSE. Are you starting with
the LSE on or off. It makes sense to me to start up with the LSE on, but I
seem to remember people talking about starting the engine with it off.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Garrett Bray" <braygarrett(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's Windscreen Antenna |
I used it on my -6 and found it to work poorly. Very directional, couldn't
reach tower sometimes in the pattern. Installed a conventional attenna aft
of the rear window on the top of fuselage and problem went away.
Gary Bray
Hermon. Maine
Rv-6
>
>Listers
>
>I'm thinking of using the Van's style windscreen mounted comm's antenna.
>At $7 I assume it can only
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
I have used there spinner and except for being heavy it is a real nice unit
that I would recommend.
John Furey
2nd RV6A O-320 Sensenich
1st RV6A O-360 Sterba then Sensenich
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dr. Leathers" <DrLeathers(at)822heal.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV 10 Engines |
Dennis,
Have you cheked out Bombardier's new V200 and V300T? See it at
www.vaircraftengines.com also See Jan Eggenfellner's H6 Subaru at
www.eggenfellneraircraft.com
Doc
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis and Stephanie Smith" <famflier(at)centurytel.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV 10 Engines
>
> Eustace
> I wish there were some other good engine options for the RV-10. I have
> started my kit already, but have not purchased an engine yet.
> I think the turbo diesel would be a great option if it were more
available,
> but more than likely I will go with a IO-540. Wish I didn't have to spend
> that much money, but right now I think it is the best option.
> You are probably right about the availability of good cores for
rebuilding.
> Might be hard to come by. Doesn't a new IO-540 run about $37K?
> Best of luck.
> Dennis in Oregon
>
>
> -------Original Message-------
>
> From: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Sunday, October 26, 2003 7:41:45 PM
> To: rv list
> Subject: RV-List: RV 10 Engines
>
>
> A number of people watching the RV List have asked why we are still using
> engines that are 50 plus years old technology and also expensive.
>
> Van covered this subject at length in a recent RV-ator and feels that the
> Lycoming's are still the best choice for his aircraft.
>
> I am aware of a number of companies out there that are putting a huge
effort
> into trying to come up with an alternate engine and my hat is off to them
>
> With the RV 10 coming on line and having had the opportunity to fly this
> remarkable aircraft at Van' home comeing I can see a huge demand for an
> engine in the 260 HP category. The RV 10 has really got my adrenaline
> pumping so I have been doing some research as to what the final cost would
> be to build one.
>
> I looked at some of the alternate engines under development and found
> nothing that comes close to the I0540 Lycoming all things considered. One
in
> particular caught my eye, burns Jet A and uses the latest technology but
> when I got into the nuts and bolts of it turned out to be a
disappointment.
> It is 30 HP shy, is much heavier and the price quoted me was in the
seventy
> thousand dollar range, this did however include the prop and engine mount
> Using a price of say sixty-five thousand to compare it to an Aero Sport
> I0540 at $ 27700.00 the difference would be $ 37300.00. This would buy
some
> 17 to 18000 gals of av-gas, if one was to fly 100 hrs.a year with the RV
10
> at say 12 gals an hour it would take 14-15 years to use it up.
>
> Another thing one could do would be invest the $ 37300.00 at say 5%, this
> would give a return of $1865.00 which would give you enough fuel for
around
> 155 hours of flying a year
>
> But apart from all this prattle the bottom line is safety. We as builders
> have a responsibility to our passengers and family to fly accident free if
> we possibly can. To do this we have to go with an engine either new or a
> quality overhaul that we know will go it's recommended time between
overhaul
> s if flown and maintained properly without a failure. This now becomes
even
> more important with the RV 10 when we will now be carrying up to three
> passengers.
>
> I am wondering if with the large number of RV 10's that have already been
> sold good I0540 cores for overhaul may become harder to come by and the
> price may go up.
>
> Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net> |
Gentleman & the beautiful Stephanie,
I have installed many engines, I am by no means an expert, just done it a
lot. I have installed 5 or so NSI Subaru engines in Kitfoxes and now am
finishing up the IO-360-A1B6 and the BMA EFIS in the -8A I am now working
on.
I think the modified auto engines are a great option IF repeat IF someone
puts together a great PLUG & PLAY FWF. Some one will come along with this,
and offer a modified auto engine FWF package. Most people don't realize the
amount of engineering that must go into a great auto engine and the fact
that it must be a FWF package. A great example of is VT300. That is FWF
perfect engine for the -10.
Since the VT300 is not available yet I am going with the IO-540 for the -10,
See ya at OSH
Noel Simmons
-6A / -8A/ -10(tail kit here!)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dennis and
Stephanie Smith
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV 10 Engines
Eustace
I wish there were some other good engine options for the RV-10. I have
started my kit already, but have not purchased an engine yet.
I think the turbo diesel would be a great option if it were more available,
but more than likely I will go with a IO-540. Wish I didn't have to spend
that much money, but right now I think it is the best option.
You are probably right about the availability of good cores for rebuilding.
Might be hard to come by. Doesn't a new IO-540 run about $37K?
Best of luck.
Dennis in Oregon
-------Original Message-------
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Sunday, October 26, 2003 7:41:45 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV 10 Engines
A number of people watching the RV List have asked why we are still using
engines that are 50 plus years old technology and also expensive.
Van covered this subject at length in a recent RV-ator and feels that the
Lycoming's are still the best choice for his aircraft.
I am aware of a number of companies out there that are putting a huge effort
into trying to come up with an alternate engine and my hat is off to them
With the RV 10 coming on line and having had the opportunity to fly this
remarkable aircraft at Van' home comeing I can see a huge demand for an
engine in the 260 HP category. The RV 10 has really got my adrenaline
pumping so I have been doing some research as to what the final cost would
be to build one.
I looked at some of the alternate engines under development and found
nothing that comes close to the I0540 Lycoming all things considered. One in
particular caught my eye, burns Jet A and uses the latest technology but
when I got into the nuts and bolts of it turned out to be a disappointment.
It is 30 HP shy, is much heavier and the price quoted me was in the seventy
thousand dollar range, this did however include the prop and engine mount
Using a price of say sixty-five thousand to compare it to an Aero Sport
I0540 at $ 27700.00 the difference would be $ 37300.00. This would buy some
17 to 18000 gals of av-gas, if one was to fly 100 hrs.a year with the RV 10
at say 12 gals an hour it would take 14-15 years to use it up.
Another thing one could do would be invest the $ 37300.00 at say 5%, this
would give a return of $1865.00 which would give you enough fuel for around
155 hours of flying a year
But apart from all this prattle the bottom line is safety. We as builders
have a responsibility to our passengers and family to fly accident free if
we possibly can. To do this we have to go with an engine either new or a
quality overhaul that we know will go it's recommended time between overhaul
s if flown and maintained properly without a failure. This now becomes even
more important with the RV 10 when we will now be carrying up to three
passengers.
I am wondering if with the large number of RV 10's that have already been
sold good I0540 cores for overhaul may become harder to come by and the
price may go up.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net> |
Regarding spinner-to-prop clearance, I'm using the 1/16 inch recommended by Vans.
Dave Reel - RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Lightspeed/GRT 4000 Tach |
Chris Heitman asked this question a few weeks ago and got no replies. Since
I have the same problem, I will ask again.
I have a GRT 4000 engine monitor and Lightspeed Plasma II electronic
ignition. I am getting a zero reading on the GRT tach. Pulses is set to 2
as specifies by Lightspeed.
Has anyone gotten this combo to work?
Ross Mickey
Awaiting inspection
RV6A 9PT
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV7 Ground Buss |
I have a #4 gauge wire going from the neg.terminal of the battery straight
down to the corner of the firewall about 2" inches up from the apex of the
corner where the right (starboard) vertical stiffener angle meets the
right-to-left diagonal stiffener. The AN-516 bolt that grounds it to the FW
goes right through the terminal of the #4 wire that grounds the engine
(0-320) at one of the sump bolts. I also have #4 wire jumpers that go across
the 2 lower engine mounts, thus 3 engine grounds.
I made a copper plate with several turret terminals secured with nuts and
soldered to it, for my main ground block. It is mounted on the left side of
the radio/transponder trays which provide a solid ground to the instrument
panel.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <panamared2(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's Windscreen Antenna |
BNC bulkhead connector is what I used. Installation is pretty straight
forward, no big problems as I recall. However, I had mediocre
communication results with this antenna. I have since put in a real
external antenna.
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
>I'm thinking of using the Van's style windscreen mounted comm's
>antenna. At $7 I assume it can only be a BNC bulkhead connector and a
>length of self adhisive copper tape. As I have both items to hand in my
>tool box this could be a very economic route to take. Could anyone who
>has installed one confirm my assumption and does the installation perform
>sarisfactorily.
>
>Neil Henderson RV9-A Nr Aylesbury UK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
> I think the modified auto engines are a great option IF repeat IF someone
> puts together a great PLUG & PLAY FWF.
I accept that as a business prerequisite. I don't think anybody's going to get
rich SELLING an auto engine conversion if the FWF package isn't excellent.
But the attraction of an auto conversion, for some builders, is the challenge
of doing it themselves. I've always found it odd that so many people who build
their own airplanes from the firewall back have trouble understanding why other
builders are interested in doing the same thing ahead of the firewall. I
suppose engineering your own powerplant is more analagous to designing your own
airplane, which interests a few of us, but not most.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
> If seriously shooting for under 1,000lbs with a metal prop (no interior or
> radios ?), the Sensenich spinner does weigh more than the fiberglass
> one. Fitting Van's spinner took me about 4 hours, I figured at $100/hr
> the aluminum one sure looks nice but opted to save weight & money.
>
> (RV-6 flying lightweight interior no gyros no paint O-320 metal prop
> 1015lbs).
I' surprised at that 1015 lbs! My -6A empty weighed 1032 lbs with 0-320,
Sensenich prop, with Vac system, DG & AH, Comm. & Xponder, fully primed in &
out and one good coat of outside paint. no interior other than D.J.'s seats!
Cheers!!----Henry Hore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lightspeed/GRT 4000 Tach |
For the record, I will answer my own question. I have a Plasma II
lightspeed. It produces .3 millisecond pulses. The GRT 4000 can not read
such a quick signal. The Plasma III has longer pulses and therefore works
with the GRT 4000. I do not know about the pulse length for the Plasma II
Plus.
Ross Mickey
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: RV-List: Lightspeed/GRT 4000 Tach
>
> Chris Heitman asked this question a few weeks ago and got no replies.
Since
> I have the same problem, I will ask again.
>
> I have a GRT 4000 engine monitor and Lightspeed Plasma II electronic
> ignition. I am getting a zero reading on the GRT tach. Pulses is set to
2
> as specifies by Lightspeed.
>
> Has anyone gotten this combo to work?
>
> Ross Mickey
> Awaiting inspection
> RV6A 9PT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David.vonLinsowe" <David.vonLinsowe(at)delphi.com> |
Marcel,
Don't forget to also cycle the blades through their pitch range and check the clearance.
Without oil pressure the blades should be at the low/fine pitch limit.
With someone on each blade the blades can be twisted to hi/coarse pitch.
I've seen where the blade will hit the fairing behind the blade and depending
on the spacers used, the rear bulkhead too.
Dave
RV-6
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Propeller
In a message dated 10/26/2003 4:26:53 PM Pacific Standard Time,
mbourgon(at)elp.rr.com writes:
I have a simple question I think of all propellers installers. We have set
propeller and I am setting the spinner. The unit we are using is a constant
speed
Hartzell propeller and I was wondering how much gap should be left around
the properler so it work properly. Right now we have the spinner on and it
is good and tight with the blades. I know we need to have room around blade
I just need some one to tell me how much room is the right amount.
1mm (.040").
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 671hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV7 Ground Buss |
Good points made and I appreciate them. On your 6, was the battery located
just below the ground buss? If so, did the buss location cause problem
with replacing battery ever so often? In case you don't already know, the
battery location on the 7 is along the right edge of the recess area with
the negative terminal nearer the centerline.
Thanks for your reply.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
On Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "GMC" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca>
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV7 Ground Buss
>
>
> Subject: RV-List: RV7 Ground Buss
>
>
> I'd like to hear from anyone that feels, after having already done it,
they
> have selected the right place to put the ground buss bolt through the
> firewall. I am looking at the indented/recessed area that is space for
> the oil filter. The area looks clean on the pilot side of the firewall
for
> receiving a bunch of ground wires. And it is close to the negative
battery
> post.
>
> Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
> On Finish Kit
>
>
> Hi Larry
>
> My experience is with my 6A so your -7 may be slightly different, however
> one non-electrical consideration. If you have a oil filter you may not
want
> to have wires in the area where you will be removing the old oil filter.
> It's hard to get the old filter out around wires and cables without
spilling
> oil and making a mess.
>
> Suggest you put the ground block inside firewall about six inches right
> (looking forward) of the firewall cutout and at or above oil filter
height.
> Run a stud through the brass ground block with inside of stud connected to
> battery (-) and engine ground strap on forward side of stud.
>
> My 0-320 had a nice spot for a ground strap near base of oil dipstick
tube.
>
> George McNutt
> Langley BC
> (Five filter changes!)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV7 Ground Buss |
Thank you for your idea that is proven. I will do something very similar.
Makes good sense now that I understand it. I appreciate your help.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
On Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV7 Ground Buss
<elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
>
> I have a #4 gauge wire going from the neg.terminal of the battery straight
> down to the corner of the firewall about 2" inches up from the apex of the
> corner where the right (starboard) vertical stiffener angle meets the
> right-to-left diagonal stiffener. The AN-516 bolt that grounds it to the
FW
> goes right through the terminal of the #4 wire that grounds the engine
> (0-320) at one of the sump bolts. I also have #4 wire jumpers that go
across
> the 2 lower engine mounts, thus 3 engine grounds.
>
> I made a copper plate with several turret terminals secured with nuts and
> soldered to it, for my main ground block. It is mounted on the left side
of
> the radio/transponder trays which provide a solid ground to the instrument
> panel.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Smith <dave_smith(at)icehouse.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Builder IM Network |
I guess the question I'd have to ask, is whether we as builders would
rather use one IM network over another. The hobby that used to take up
all my time was online gaming. Gamers use ICQ pretty much exclusively,
but not that many other folks do. So which IM network would be the
best? Trillian is nice, but has drawbacks in that it can't handle some
of the nice features of the individual networks. Sooo, I'd only want to
run one system. Which one?
Dave
http://www.rv10project.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcel" <mbourgon(at)elp.rr.com> |
Thanks for your input
Marcel
----- Original Message -----
From: "David.vonLinsowe" <David.vonLinsowe(at)delphi.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: Propeller
>
> Marcel,
>
> Don't forget to also cycle the blades through their pitch range and check
the clearance. Without oil pressure the blades should be at the low/fine
pitch limit. With someone on each blade the blades can be twisted to
hi/coarse pitch. I've seen where the blade will hit the fairing behind the
blade and depending on the spacers used, the rear bulkhead too.
>
> Dave
> RV-6
>
>
> From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Propeller
>
>
> In a message dated 10/26/2003 4:26:53 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> mbourgon(at)elp.rr.com writes:
> I have a simple question I think of all propellers installers. We have
set
> propeller and I am setting the spinner. The unit we are using is a
constant
> speed
> Hartzell propeller and I was wondering how much gap should be left around
> the properler so it work properly. Right now we have the spinner on and
it
> is good and tight with the blades. I know we need to have room around
blade
> I just need some one to tell me how much room is the right amount.
> 1mm (.040").
>
> -GV (RV-6A N1GV 671hrs)
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry" <jdoyal(at)sport.rr.com> |
| Subject: | RV Builder IM Network |
My vote is AOL instant messenger.
Jerry Doyal
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Smith
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV Builder IM Network
I guess the question I'd have to ask, is whether we as builders would
rather use one IM network over another. The hobby that used to take up
all my time was online gaming. Gamers use ICQ pretty much exclusively,
but not that many other folks do. So which IM network would be the
best? Trillian is nice, but has drawbacks in that it can't handle some
of the nice features of the individual networks. Sooo, I'd only want to
run one system. Which one?
Dave
http://www.rv10project.net
=
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV Builder IM Network |
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
I'm not sure what you feel Trillian is lacking, except the all the ads and
annoyances. It's always done everything I've needed as far as basic IM
goes. I recommend it. Free too.
http://trillian.cc
Two cents,
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
>
>
> I guess the question I'd have to ask, is whether we as builders would
> rather use one IM network over another. The hobby that used to take up
> all my time was online gaming. Gamers use ICQ pretty much exclusively,
> but not that many other folks do. So which IM network would be the
> best? Trillian is nice, but has drawbacks in that it can't handle some
> of the nice features of the individual networks. Sooo, I'd only want to
>
> run one system. Which one?
> Dave
> http://www.rv10project.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
I had my first landing without one of the tailwheel springs attached.
Somehow the clip got twisted up and pulled open on take off. It was a non
event as I didn't even notice it until after the three point landing had
slowed some. By then I just used a little brake going that way, and and used
both brakes to slow it down faster than I would normally to a reasonable
taxi speed.
It was kinda like driving an RV 6&1/2A
;{)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Builder IM Network |
Dave Smith wrote:
> I guess the question I'd have to ask, is whether we as builders would
> rather use one IM network over another. The hobby that used to take up
> all my time was online gaming. Gamers use ICQ pretty much exclusively,
> but not that many other folks do. So which IM network would be the
> best? Trillian is nice, but has drawbacks in that it can't handle some
> of the nice features of the individual networks. Sooo, I'd only want to
> run one system. Which one?
While we're at it, let's all only use one priming system for our RV's.
Which one? Come on, let's all get together and choose the best one. 8-)
The problem with choosing one system is that some people don't have a
choice which client to use. Some Employers use IM software for
inter-office connectivity, and it works quite well for that. But some
use MSN, some use ICQ, etc. Unfortunately, the only sure-fire way is to
get an account on all of the systems, and use a multi-headed client to
connect to them all. Most of the multi-headed clients support most of
the features of the native applications. They certainly all support
chatting, most support file transfer.
Here's the top three that I know of:
Windows: Trillian. http://www.trillian.cc/
Linux: Ayttm. http://ayttm.sourceforge.net/
Gaim. http://gaim.sourceforge.net/
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Builder IM Network |
Hey Listers,
Regarding List Chat, I've had a request from another List at Matronics for
chat and have commented to finding and hosting a solution here on the
Matronics servers that will work well for everyone. Let me look into this
technology a little bit and see what's out there and what works well. Rob
listed some suggestions below and I can start there.
I have server-class Linux systems here and a full, commercial T1 line so
infrastructure to support a full chat system should be well covered. Would
a web-based client system be the most desirable? No special software to
download, etc.?
I would appreciate any advice experts in the field might have.
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin
At 08:34 AM 10/28/2003 Tuesday, you wrote:
>
>Dave Smith wrote:
> > I guess the question I'd have to ask, is whether we as builders would
> > rather use one IM network over another. The hobby that used to take up
> > all my time was online gaming. Gamers use ICQ pretty much exclusively,
> > but not that many other folks do. So which IM network would be the
> > best? Trillian is nice, but has drawbacks in that it can't handle some
> > of the nice features of the individual networks. Sooo, I'd only want to
> > run one system. Which one?
>
>While we're at it, let's all only use one priming system for our RV's.
>Which one? Come on, let's all get together and choose the best one. 8-)
>
>The problem with choosing one system is that some people don't have a
>choice which client to use. Some Employers use IM software for
>inter-office connectivity, and it works quite well for that. But some
>use MSN, some use ICQ, etc. Unfortunately, the only sure-fire way is to
>get an account on all of the systems, and use a multi-headed client to
>connect to them all. Most of the multi-headed clients support most of
>the features of the native applications. They certainly all support
>chatting, most support file transfer.
>
>Here's the top three that I know of:
>
>Windows: Trillian. http://www.trillian.cc/
>Linux: Ayttm. http://ayttm.sourceforge.net/
> Gaim. http://gaim.sourceforge.net/
>
>-Rob
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel clips |
>
>I had my first landing without one of the tailwheel springs attached.
>
>Somehow the clip got twisted up and pulled open on take off. It was a non
>event as I didn't even notice it until after the three point landing had
>slowed some. By then I just used a little brake going that way, and and
>used
>both brakes to slow it down faster than I would normally to a reasonable
>taxi speed.
>
>It was kinda like driving an RV 6&1/2A
>
Wheelie,
Trasheth thee those clips and go thee post haste to yonder Lowes or Home
Depot. Purchase thee from ye olde hardware aisle some chain link "missing
links", that have a threaded coupling nut. Apply these deftly to thy dangly
tailwheel chains and fly thee into the wild blue yonder with giddy abandon,
to return to earth knowing full well no longer will ye fear the most dreaded
ground loop dragon.
Yikes...too much coffee today.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neil McLeod" <bedrock(at)theriver.com> |
| Subject: | Re: [rv8list] props and spinner spacing |
I talked to WW and unfortunately they don't have any plans at this time
to offer a counterweighted version. Darn.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy Lervold
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: [rv8list] props and spinner spacing
Fear not, the 200RV is a 72" diameter and will work on any RV.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Neil McLeod" <neilmcleod(at)direcway.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: [rv8list] props and spinner spacing
>
> Thanks Randy,
>
> What I was hoping for was somthing with a little less diameter for us
side
> by side guys.
> Looking forward to your flight report!
>
> Neil
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: [rv8list] props and spinner spacing
>
>
> >
> > The 200RV is a new 2-blade model designed specifically for RVs. It
uses
a
> > McCauley 215 hub instead of the 220 hub of the 200C. This hub is
smaller
> and
> > lighter and better suited for the RV. It then has a brand new
airfoil
that
> > Jim Rust came up with after consulting with a couple of industry
gurus.
> >
> > I'll post pics of it probably tomorrow. I flew it today but didn't
do
any
> > testing.
> >
> > Randy
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Neil McLeod" <neilmcleod(at)direcway.com>
> > To:
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: [rv8list] props and spinner spacing
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Randy,
> > >
> > > How about tossing us a bone here, just what is the 200 RV?
> > >
> > > Neil McLeod
> > > still searching for the perfect aerobatic prop for my 7
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
> > > To: ; ;
> > >
> > > Subject: RV-List: Re: [rv8list] props and spinner spacing
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > Scott,
> > > >
> > > > I will be testing the new Whirl Wind 200RV. I just received it
today,
> > > installed it tonight, and weighed it before installation: 41 lbs
for
the
> > > complete assembly including all fasteners compared to 59 for the
> Hartzell.
> > > I'll balance it and fly it tomorrow, testing could be as soon as
next
> > > weekend. Information as it develops will be added to the Prop page
on
my
> > web
> > > site found at...
> > > > www.rv-8.com/Prop.htm
> > > >
> > > > Randy Lervold
> > > > www.rv-8.com
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: Scott Clarkson
> > > > To: rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com
> > > > Sent: Friday, October 24, 2003 5:29 PM
> > > > Subject: [rv8list] props and spinner spacing
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > I've spent the last month trying to figure out what prop to
order
> and
> > I
> > > still haven't made up my mind. I think I ruled out the Hartzell
models
> > for
> > > weight and vibration issues. I spoke with Whirlwind (really nice
> people)
> > > but can't order their 3 blade because I'm running Lasar ignition.
I'm
> > > intrigued by the 2 blade RV model coming out but it won't be till
the
> > > beginning of the year at best. I'm leaning toward the MT 3 blade
for
> > > smoothness and weight savings.
> > > >
> > > > In the archives I've gathered that the spinner/cowling spacing
> should
> > > remain the same (or close) regardless of what prop I decide to go
with.
> I
> > > would like to install my cowling using the prop simulator spacers
and
> > Van's
> > > spinner back plate but the archives warn that Van's recommended
2.250"
> PVC
> > > prop spacers between the ring gear and spinner back plate are too
long.
> > > They should be more like 2.125". Could someone verify the spacer
length
> > so
> > > I don't toast my cowling and maybe lend some advice about using
this
> > method?
> > > I just want be accurate and keep the project rolling along.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks in advance,
> > > > Scott Clarkson
> > > > Propellerless in NJ
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ADVERTISEMENT
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Information exchange for builders of Vans Aircraft RV-8 kits.
> > > >
> > > > IF YOU WISH TO UNSUBSCRIBE, PLEASE SEND AN EMAIL TO :
> > > >
> > > > rv8list-unsubscribe(at)egroups.com
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Tip-Up vs. Slider |
Could some kind folk out there give me their comments re. going with
a tip-up vs. slider canopy? About to buy Fusel. Geoff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joshua Siler" <joshs(at)ninatek.com> |
| Subject: | RV Builder IM Network |
Mat,
IRC is a very stable and well-tested technology that runs well on
UNIX systems for chat. It does require client software, however there are
several good free downloads available.
Regards,
Josh Siler
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV Builder IM Network
Hey Listers,
Regarding List Chat, I've had a request from another List at Matronics for
chat and have commented to finding and hosting a solution here on the
Matronics servers that will work well for everyone. Let me look into this
technology a little bit and see what's out there and what works well. Rob
listed some suggestions below and I can start there.
I have server-class Linux systems here and a full, commercial T1 line so
infrastructure to support a full chat system should be well covered. Would
a web-based client system be the most desirable? No special software to
download, etc.?
I would appreciate any advice experts in the field might have.
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin
At 08:34 AM 10/28/2003 Tuesday, you wrote:
>
>Dave Smith wrote:
> > I guess the question I'd have to ask, is whether we as builders would
> > rather use one IM network over another. The hobby that used to take up
> > all my time was online gaming. Gamers use ICQ pretty much exclusively,
> > but not that many other folks do. So which IM network would be the
> > best? Trillian is nice, but has drawbacks in that it can't handle some
> > of the nice features of the individual networks. Sooo, I'd only want to
> > run one system. Which one?
>
>While we're at it, let's all only use one priming system for our RV's.
>Which one? Come on, let's all get together and choose the best one. 8-)
>
>The problem with choosing one system is that some people don't have a
>choice which client to use. Some Employers use IM software for
>inter-office connectivity, and it works quite well for that. But some
>use MSN, some use ICQ, etc. Unfortunately, the only sure-fire way is to
>get an account on all of the systems, and use a multi-headed client to
>connect to them all. Most of the multi-headed clients support most of
>the features of the native applications. They certainly all support
>chatting, most support file transfer.
>
>Here's the top three that I know of:
>
>Windows: Trillian. http://www.trillian.cc/
>Linux: Ayttm. http://ayttm.sourceforge.net/
> Gaim. http://gaim.sourceforge.net/
>
>-Rob
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | UPDATE - Integrated LED Position Lights & Landing Lights |
vansairforce
Hi all...
I just wanted to let you all know that I am now taking orders for my new Integrated
LED Position Lights & Landing Lights, and should be shipping the first kits
by the end of November...
These lights were developed in cooperation with Bill Dube - http://www.killacycle.com/Lights.htm, Thanks Bill!
More information on my web site: www.creativair.com
-Bill VonDane
www.creativair.com
www.vondane.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel clips |
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
I notice an RV-8 this past weekend that had no springs or chains back
there. Nothin. Just like Dick Martin. Should these be considered
optional equipment? Personally, I'll be using the Jantzi steerling
link...
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Wheeler North said:
>
> I had my first landing without one of the tailwheel springs attached.
>
> Somehow the clip got twisted up and pulled open on take off. It was a non
> event as I didn't even notice it until after the three point landing had
> slowed some. By then I just used a little brake going that way, and and
> used
> both brakes to slow it down faster than I would normally to a reasonable
> taxi speed.
>
> It was kinda like driving an RV 6&1/2A
>
> ;{)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Builder IM Network |
> Would a web-based client system be the most desirable? No special software
> to download, etc.?
Matt:
Take this with a grain of salt as I'm not an IM user. Ideally, anything of
this nature should be non-proprietary, which in this case most likely means
web-based. If it's web-based everyone is included, and people like me who use
three or four different operating systems on a regular basis have access from
each of their machines.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fyrflyr(at)aol.com
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 15:47:47 EST
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fires
-------------------------------1067374067
Cap'n Mike
Tell this guy if he thinks he can do ANYTHING better were open to
suggestions. The Cedar fire is a BBBIIIIGGGGG fire. 22000+ acres, goes from Julian
on
the East through Ramona,Poway,Lakeside,Santee,Scripps Ranch and Miramar. That's
just the North side. The South side goes through Alpine,ElCajon and parts
south.
There's six other fires going that are over 10000 acres at the same time.
And when they all start close together, resources are stretched pretty thin.
We had ten S2's working here making turn a rounds of as little as seven min.
Billy Hoskins made 28 trips is three hours, I made 15 trips in two hours, so
the air resources were doing all we could were we could. As you know we only
go where the big wheels tell us to go.
I think if you responded to this guy it would sound better as I don't think
I'd be very polite or politicly correct.
Later
Semper Fi
Bob
-------------------------------1067374067
Cap'n Mike
Tell this guy if he thinks he can do ANYTHING better were open to suggestions.
The Cedar fire is a BBBIIIIGGGGG fire. 22000+ acres, goes from Julian on the East
through Ramona,Poway,Lakeside,Santee,Scripps Ranch and Miramar. That's just
the North side. The South side goes through Alpine,ElCajon and parts south.
There's six other fires going that are over 10000 acres at the same time. And when
they all start close together, resources are stretched pretty thin.
We had ten S2's working here making turn a rounds of as little as seven min. Billy
Hoskins made 28 trips is three hours, I made 15 trips in two hours, so the
air resources were doing all we could were we could. As you know we only go
where the big wheels tell us to go.
I think if you responded to this guy it would sound better as I don't think I'd
be very polite or politicly correct.
Later
Semper Fi
Bob
-------------------------------1067374067--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Builder IM Network |
> My advice is (a) don't reinvent the wheel,
What do you think Yahoo, et al, did? Chat's been around for decades in one
form or another.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smoothweasel(at)juno.com |
First I would like to thank everyone on this list for your support , has
been great!!!
I do not have Internet service here. Only email so bear with me when I
ask questions that are in the archives. Maybe when I get my plane flying
I will have enough cash to get it.
I will be purchasing a EGT/CHT combination gauge and I don't feel that I
can afford 8 probes for all the cylinders so I was wondering if anyone
has any experience on which cylinder runs the hottest on CHT and if that
is the same one that is hottest on EGT? Thanx
Joel Graber
-4 finishing
Brooksville MS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo(at)verizon.net> |
"Rocket List" ,
"RV List"
| Subject: | HUMOR - are bigger engine's Chick Magnets |
Everybody,
Over the last couple of days, there has been a thread on the
SoCal RV-List about the old question Fixed or Constant Speed Prop. Of
course, the answers depend on the viewpoint of the answerer. Anyway, one
guy wrote that the aircraft with bigger engines and more horsepower are
"Chick Magnets." I think I have some proof.
The other day I got an Email from a young lady who had built a
RV-4. She wanted to see what all the talk was about. So, she flew her RV
up to Apple Valley. I knew things were going to be good when I watched her
come into the pattern. She needed to maneuver to avoid some traffic and I
watched her plane quickly roll into a 60-80 degree bank and smartly turn to
downwind. Looks like she knows how to fly her plane, i.e., no sissy 30
degree bank turns. We jumped into the Rocket and did some light acro and
just got the feel for the plane. I think she liked the ride and the rocket.
She must have read my web page too, as she asked for low and fast. I think
she like that too.
Back into the pattern, I got very lucky. I am showing off so I wanted the
landing to be good. As luck would have it, I did one of those landings
where you know you are down when you hear the wheels start rolling. I saved
my bouncers for when people aren't watching.
So mark up another great day at the airport. Days like this are
not deduced from your life span.
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA
Harmon Rocket-II
http://mysite.verizon.net/t.gummo/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "MARSHALL,STEPHANIE (HP-Corvallis,ex1)" <stephanie.marshall(at)HP.COM> |
"'oregon-rvlist(at)yahoogroups.com'"
Hello all,
My husband and I were going to start an RV-8 in January, the Avery Tool kit
was going to be our Christmas present to each other. Well, slight change in
plans I got in a car accident yesterday and now our tool money is going to
be repair the car money.
We are both still in college and short on cash to begin with, does anyone
have tools they might be willing to sell?
Thanks,
Stephanie Marshall
Oregon State University
541-715-3976
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tip-Up vs. Slider |
I have the Tip-up on my -6A and I'm VERY happy with it. I can imagine that
the slider would be nice to have on those hot days in areas where the
climate demands it, but up here in Canada I don't need it. On hot days after
landing, I open it up to the open-latch position on the roll-bar (which is
BEHIND the pilot so no vision obstruction) which gives plenty of extra
ventilation.
Another advantage is that good access is available to the rear of the panel
so it is an easy matter to make connections of wiring originating from the
FWF area. For example the mag "P" leads can be easily connected to the
ignition switch (which is located on the left side of the panel) simply by
opening the canopy. I have 2 ''Jones" terminal strips, 10 terminals each,
mounted on the canopy deck extension on each side where most of my wiring to
the panel is connected. they are accessible simply by opening the canopy.
There has been much written about the difficulty of sealing the skirts of
the slider. These problems do not occur on the tip-up.
Finally the Viz out of the tip-up is GREAT!!
Cheers!!----Henry Hore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Stucklen" <wstucklen1(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Electric flap motor failures |
HTML_TAG_EXISTS_TBODY
John,
Please describe your field flap motor repair kit.. I now have to eat
my previous words on the RV-list as, in the new plane, I had a flap
motor failure. i haven't removed it yet to find the problem, but know
tht there is voltage getting to it....
I'll probably order a new one from Vans's tomorrow so that I have a
spare one around....
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV 75 hrs....
Match: #29
Message: #110431
Date: Mar 11, 2003
From: John Allen <fliier(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Electric flap motor
<http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=135627909?KE
YS=flap_&_motor?LISTNAME=RV?HITNUMBER=29?SERIAL=16314817911?SHOWBUTTONSNO> failures
My electric flap motor also quits every 30 hours or so. I've gotten to
the point
where I keep a special kit in the airplane just for that problem. I can
open
and clean that motor armature in about 30 minutes in the field, without
removing
the assembly from the airplane.
I have never had them stick in the down position, but I have had to make
a couple
of no-flap landings. Fortunately the RV slips well and is not hard to
land
without flaps.
It seems that the interval between failures has increased over time.
John Allen
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larygagnon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Electric flap motor failures |
The flap motor in my RV6 failed at 8 hours and again at 30 hours. I could
hear the flap relay click but the motor would not move. Both times an oily
substance on the brush/armature area caused it to work intermittently but I never
saw an excess of grease in the motor. The second time I also found a brush
broken so I'm waiting for a replacement from Van's. BTW make sure the lock nut
on
the rod end is tight, if it looseness up the arm will unscrew itself from the
rod end. Ask me how I know. I agree on the necessary tools, I'll be sure to
carry what I need on board to deal with this if it happens again.
Larry Gagnon
RV6 O360 N6LG
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: EGT/CHT probes |
> I will be purchasing a EGT/CHT combination gauge .......so I was wondering
if anyone has any experience on which cylinder runs the hottest on CHT and
if that is the same one that is hottest on EGT? Thanx Joel Graber
Joel: I purchased my gauges and probes from Vans. Based upon their
documentation - and a call to Gus Funnell at Vans I installed the CHT probe
on #4 cylinder and the EGT probe on #4 exhaust. I researched a lot. Not
flying yet. Being an pioneer (O-235) I asked a lot of respected people
about this. I installed my oil cooler behind #4 but my SCAT behind #3.
Make a diff ? ? ?
Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop
90 plus % Complete - Electrical
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Ellsworth" <ellsworj(at)m33access.com> |
| Subject: | E-721 Trim tab hinge |
SMTPD_IN_RCVD
Drilling the E-721 hinge to the trim tab skin E-619 and E-607 tab spar the Emp
drawing #4 gives a 1/4" dimension. Is that dimension from the center of the hinge
or the squared notches in the hinge. It looks like it will be from the squared
notches to maintain edge distance to the notch. Even with the 1/4" from the
notches it will be close to the rear edge of the hinge.
Thanks
Jim E
RV-7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gabe A Ferrer" <ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net> |
On my O360 the #3 cylinder is the hottest. Cylinder EGT varies depending on how
much I lean the engine. Hottest cylinder EGT varies from flight to flight and
during any given flight. I haven't figured out why.
Gabe A Ferrer
RV6 N2GX 83 hours
South Florida
Email: ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net
Cell: 561 758 8894
Night Phone: 561 622 0960
Fax: 561 622 0960
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gabe A Ferrer" <ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Tail Wheel Clip Wire Ends |
I had one spring on my tail wheel almost come loose. The end of the wire clip was
catching.
I filed the ends of the clip wire at an angle. This, after about 12 hours, has
prevented the end of the clip wire from catching.
Gabe A Ferrer
RV6 N2GX 83 hours
South Florida
Email: ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net
Cell: 561 758 8894
Night Phone: 561 622 0960
Fax: 561 622 0960
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Gray <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel clips |
I have seen one RV in this country without any interconnect from the
rudder to tail wheel.
For that matter the DHC Chipmunk I did my aerobatic training in had no
linkage by design. The only times I missed it was when I had a brake
failure while taxying downhill around a bend. Taxying in a very stiff
crosswind was a non event, dragging a brake and adding power easily
compensated for the lack of rudder authority.
I'll certainly give it a try without, when the day finally comes.
Doug Gray
RV-6 fuse in Oz
>
> I notice an RV-8 this past weekend that had no springs or chains back
> there. Nothin. Just like Dick Martin. Should these be considered
> optional equipment? Personally, I'll be using the Jantzi steerling
> link...
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Builder IM Network |
> Do I win? :)
So far. The question is, what's an appropriate prize?
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Hummmph,
Rocket guys who use a slide rule while making perfect landings with pretty
ladies who own RV-4s....
All I can say is "the bad thing about a perfect landing is the next one is
going to be worse, so be careful" ;{)
Brian, thanks for the advice on the tail link clips. Has anyone come up with
an adjustable connector for the chains? My new springs and chains seem to be
different than the old ones, they are either too loose or they are very
tight, and put some significant preload on the rudder spar.
I am going to try putting AN42B eyebolts on the rudder ends to make the
chain lay more flat and hopefully fit better. I'll go get the connectors you
mentioned Brian,
thanks, remind me of this when the call for list donations comes around
again.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's |
Several weeks ago I siad that I would come up with something about
Homebuilts and the need for TSO'd equipment. Well, for better of worse here
it is. It is quite lenghtly so if you are interested now is the time to
delete and carry on. Any comments are very welcome.
Mike Robertson
HOMEBUILTS AND IFR
By Mike Robertson
Recently the issue has come up several times about Amateur-Built aircraft
and their ability to fly under Instrument Flight Rules (IFR). There are
some that say that Amateur-Built aircraft cannot be certified to fly IFR
unless the instruments and equipment installed in them are TSOD (TSO means
Technical Standard Order). There are some that say that there are NO
requirements at all and that they cant be stopped from flying IFR. Then
there are some in the middle that say that certain instruments and equipment
must be TSOd. In fact these are all incorrect. The real truth is
somewhere in the middle. Before going any further let me explain that this
article is mostly for new aircraft. Aircraft that have already been issued
an airworthiness certificate and operating limitations must follow the
operating limitations, or apply to have the operating limitations amended.
Amateur-Built aircraft today are certificated under 14 CFR 21.191(g) and
operated under 14 CFR 91 (FAR 91). The guidance that FAA Inspectors and
Designated Airworthiness Representatives (DARs) reference to issue
airworthiness certificates to ALL aircraft is FAA Order 8130.2. Section 7
of the Order covers the requirements for Experimental Amateur-Built aircraft
and tells us about eligibility, aircraft inspection, issuance of the
Airworthiness Certificate, and the issuance of Operating Limitations.
This Order does not specifically mention requirements for TSO equipment and
instruments to be installed in Amateur-Built aircraft. The key to equipment
requirements is found in the operating limitations, which are a part of the
airworthiness certificate. 14 CFR 91.9(a) requires that pilots follow
operating limitations. 14 CFR 91.319(c) and (e) both authorize the FAA to
issue necessary limitations that are prescribed in the interest of
safety. FAA Order 8130.2 paragraph 134, paragraph (a) states, Operating
limitation must be designed to fit the specific situation encountered. The
ASI may impose any additional limitations deemed necessary in the interest
of safety. The ASI and/or designee must review each imposed operating
limitation with the applicant to ensure that the operating limitations are
understood by the applicant. However, this does not mean that the ASI can
require the use of TSOd equipment. The following operating limitations
prescribe aircraft equipment requirements and may be imposed:
1. This aircraft is to be operated under VFR, day only or;
2. After completion of phase I flight testing, unless appropriately
equipped for night and/or instrument flight in accordance with 91.205, this
aircraft is to be operated VFR, day only and,
3. Aircraft instruments and equipment installed and used under 91.205 must
be inspected and maintained in accordance with the requirements of part 91.
Any maintenance or inspection of this equipment must be recorded in the
aircraft maintenance records.
To understand equipment requirements for IFR, we must ask two questions:
What are the Part 91 requirements for the equipment? And, What equipment is
prudent or safe?
So lets look at FAR 91 and see what we have. There are three rules that
effect the operation of amateur-built aircraft that do mention TSO
equipment. FAR 91.207 address emergency locator transmitters (ELT) and
states that any new installations after June 21, 1995, may not use an ELT
that meets the requirements of TSO-C91. FAR 91.215 addresses ATC
transponders and altitude reporting equipment and their use. It states that
the ATC transponder equipment installed must meet the performance and
environmental requirements of any class of TSO-C47b (Mode A) or any class of
TSO-C74b (Mode A with altitude reporting capabilities) as appropriate, or
the appropriate class of TSO-C112 (Mode S). FAR 91.217 goes on to state
that the altimeters and digitizers in the altitude reporting equipment must
meet the standards in TSO-C10b and TSO-C88, respectively, or were tested and
calibrated and shown to meet the standard referenced therein. You will
notice that in each of these rules that there is no wording that this
equipment must, in fact, be TSOd. Each does say that they must, or must
not, meet the requirements of their prospective TSO. Conceivably, you could
build your own transponder, and if you are able to prove it meets the
requirements of the appropriate TSO, you could use it.
You will also notice rules that use the word, approved. Section 91.205(a)
states, or FAA approved equivalents. Paragraph (b) references an approved
safety belt. Paragraph (c) requires approved position lights. Approved
typically means something that is approved by the FAA through a Parts
Manufacture Approval (PMA), a Technical Standard Order (TS0), in conjunction
with a type certification procedure, or in any other manner approved by the
Administrator (21.305). For amateur built aircraft, equipment installed on
the aircraft at certification is considered FAA approved. It is expected
that operating limitations will be issued as necessary to cover this
equipment, in the interest of safety. Even though this equipment is
considered approved, it still may not meet the standards of a TSO. Its up
to the operator to ensure that the equipment meets all Part 91 requirements
prior to operating the aircraft.
Even though 91.205(a) excludes amateur-built aircraft, we now know that per
the operating limitations amateur built aircraft are required by to be
appropriately equipped for night and/or instrument flight in accordance with
91.205 to operate under IFR, so lets take a look and see what we need.
Paragraph (b) talks about those basic instruments required for day VFR
flight. Paragraph (c) gives the requirements for VFR flight at night. In
paragraph (1) it states that those instruments and equipment required for
day VFR per paragraph (b) must be installed. Paragraph (c)(2) and (c)(3)
talk about position lights and anticollision lights, and clearly stated that
they must be approved. To be approved the lights must meet the requirements
of FAR 23 at a minimum. Therefore, if they do not come with an approval from
the FAA then you must be able to prove that they meet the requirements of
FAR 23. But you will notice that paragraph (c) doesnt say anything about a
TSO. Paragraph (d) gives the requirements for IFR flight. It states that
for IFR flight all the instruments in paragraph (b) are required, and if the
IFR flight is to be at night then the requirements of paragraph (c) must
also be met. Then the paragraph states that two-way radio communications
system and navigational equipment appropriate to the ground facilities to be
used, a gyroscopic rate-of-turn indicator, a slip-skid indicator, a
sensitive altimeter adjustable for barometric pressure, a clock displaying
hours, minutes, and seconds, a generator or alternator of adequate capacity,
a gyroscopic pitch and bank indicator (artificial horizon), and a gyroscopic
direction indicator (directional gyro or equivalent). Paragraph (e) of
91.205 is for flight above 24,000 feet and states that if you are using a
VOR then you must also have approved distance measuring equipment (DME).
Paragraphs (f), (g), and (h) talk about Cat II and Cat III and do not
pertain to this article unless you plan on building a jet powered aircraft.
So, after thoroughly looking at FAR 91.205 we see that other than those
items already discussed there is no mention about a TSO. We must remember
that a TSO is a standard to which equipment is manufactured. This is where
our second question comes in. As an instrument pilot flying IFR in an
amateur built aircraft, what equipment is prudent and safe for you and your
family to fly with? It is necessary that when evaluating your aircraft
during certification, that the FAA or designee (DAR) inspect the aircraft
and issue the necessary operating limitations in the interest of safety.
Remember, all the equipment listed in 91.205 installed in a STANDARD
category aircraft at the time of its certification, was evaluated by the FAA
through a type certification process, a TSO process, or a parts
manufacturing process (PMA). For an amateur built aircraft most of the
equipment listed in Part 91.205 requires no adhereance to any FAA standards.
In light of how much time has been spent building these aircraft, we all
want to operate them safely for many years. And safety is the first concern
when the aircraft are being inspected for issuance of an airworthiness
certificate.
Add MSN 8 Internet Software to your current Internet access and enjoy
patented spam control and more. Get two months FREE!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
| Subject: | RV Builder IM Network |
> Ok, my pocket protector is twitching and I can't stand it anymore. My
> first computer was an Altair 8800A S-100 bus system w/2K RAM, CPU was a
> 2 MHz 8080, no mass storage, program entry was through the front panel
> switches. After some upgrades (8K RAM, I/O ports, manual paper tape
> reader) I also had a copy of the first Microsoft BASIC interpreter on
> paper tape (seriously!).
Luxury. I had to build my own first computer from hand-rolled gold wire and
blown glass, mounted on a papyrus board. I wrote the operating system myself,
which was tough because we didn't yet have zero in those days.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's |
Mike Robertson wrote:
>
> Several weeks ago I siad that I would come up with something about
> Homebuilts and the need for TSO'd equipment. Well, for better of worse here
> it is. It is quite lenghtly so if you are interested now is the time to
> delete and carry on. Any comments are very welcome.
>
> Mike Robertson
Mike, thanks for the submission of your interpretation of the FARS in
regard to IFR ops in an experimental aircraft. This matter confuses a
lot of people, and I can't count the number of times I have heard
builders refer to getting an "IFR Certification" for their experimental
aircraft. I found it interesting that your views parallel very closely
the opinion of the EAA; here is a link to the EAA position on IFR ops in
experimental aircraft:
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/tvrvbg/_borders/IFR%20equipment.pdf
Unfortunately, it appears that to a large degree the effort needed to
get an airworthiness certificate is still dictated by the individual
DAR. As has been stated on this list, and stated in your post in regards
to "approved" equipment, there are some DARs that have personal opinions
on what is acceptable for IFR ops and those opinions are not based on a
working understanding of the relevant FARs. Such a DAR can make life
miserable for the builder who is not up to speed on his/her rights under
the FARs.
I strongly suggest that any builder who wants to have the ability to
file IFR flight plans in their experimental aircraft to first educate
themselves on the FARs, then get in touch with a local DAR........NOW.
Feel out the DAR to get an idea of what they expect to see in your panel
and if the DAR has a clue as to what the FARs have to say in this
regard. If you don't like what you hear, then find another DAR. Waiting
until you are ready for the first flight is too late to find out that
your DAR is clueless as to what AHRS means, or that they think
everything in the panel has to have the blessing of a TSO. The ignorant
DARs are out there, you need to find them before you end up in a bind.
Doug Reeves has a list of DARs with which RV builders have had a good
experience:
http://65.219.228.161/dar.htm
Thanks again, Mike, and hopefully this will help bring all DARs up to
speed on this critical issue!
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dwight Frye <dwight(at)openweave.org> |
| Subject: | Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's |
First I'll simply say "wow", and thank you for this effort. This is
great information! I do have a question (and this has nothing to do
with ancient computers). :)
In the section I quote below you say :
On Wed Oct 29 12:01:27 2003, Mike Robertson wrote :
>[ ... snip ... ]
>You will also notice rules that use the word, approved. Section 91.205(a)
>states, or FAA approved equivalents. Paragraph (b) references an approved
>safety belt. Paragraph (c) requires approved position lights. Approved
>typically means something that is approved by the FAA through a Parts
>Manufacture Approval (PMA), a Technical Standard Order (TS0), in conjunction
>with a type certification procedure, or in any other manner approved by the
>Administrator (21.305). For amateur built aircraft, equipment installed on
>the aircraft at certification is considered FAA approved. It is expected
>that operating limitations will be issued as necessary to cover this
>equipment, in the interest of safety. Even though this equipment is
>considered approved, it still may not meet the standards of a TSO. Its up
>to the operator to ensure that the equipment meets all Part 91 requirements
>prior to operating the aircraft.
>[ ... snip ... ]
Where I'm trying to puzzle out the details is with respect to things like
the new integrated LED position lights which Bill VonDane and Bill Dube are
making available. While I am unsure as of yet whether I'm going to build
my RV for IFR or not, I don't want to make choices which categorically rule
IFR operation out. I _do_ know I like the perceived higher reliability
that the LED solution seems to bring to the table.
I'm trying to parse the section quoted above and what I get from this is that
if the DAR gives you your certificate and does *not*, for whatever reason,
include any limitations regarding your choice of lights ... you are good to
go. The assumption is that unless explicitly noted they are, by definition,
approved.
If my interpretation is right, this begs the question of how do we know that
a DAR will NOT include limitations regarding your position lights unless you
purchase and install units which have _clearly_ approved previously by the
FAA? If I install the spiffy LED position lights, will I have a chance of
being limited from IFR ops in my RV? Any clue? Or is it a case of you pay
your money and take your chances?
-- Dwight
October 16, 2003 - October 29, 2003
RV-Archive.digest.vol-oj