RV-Archive.digest.vol-on
November 17, 2003 - November 24, 2003
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivets and rivet guns, etc. |
linn walters wrote:
>
> Lyle Peterson wrote:
>
>
>>I apologize if you get several copies of this message. I am subscribed
>>to several RV lists.
>>
>
> Ah, my golden opportunity. Why do you subscribe to multiple lists. Let
> me answer that. Because you want to get the best/most advice you can.
> Same reason I do. I'm presently on 5 lists. Let's say you are too.
> That's 5 posts that show up in my inbox. And then 5 really knowlegeable
> folks answer on each list. We're up to 30. Then a few (like this one)
> that don't really answer your question. 35. All from one post. Yeah,
> you get the picture ..... and you're struggling too! Now, I can always
> delete some of the replies .... but which ones? And what about the
> replies that folks didn't change the subject on??? I feel a migraine
> coming on! What to do, what to do. I don't have an real good answer,
> folks, but I'm inundated with emails, and I haven't even ordered my -10
> kit yet!!! But I do have a suggestion: Send general questions to the
> RV-LIST (like your rivet gun question .... which I want to know about
> too, and what's the difference between 1X and 3X), and -10 specific
> questions to the -10 list. That should cut down on the number of
> messages somewhat. That's what I try to do.
I have an even better suggestion.
Use the archive search engine for the various lists. If you run a search
on the RV-list archives for rivet guns instead of posting your question
to the list, you will get nine gazillion hits with opinions on the
various features of the different guns, and the rest of the list will be
spared seeing all nine gazillion opinions repeated for the fourth
gazillionth time. :-)
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil N" <pnewlon(at)toosan.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Lyco engine #list |
If you have trouble with getting the engine spec list from the Lycoming
site, I've copied it to my website:
http://www.toosan.com/misc/SSP401.pdf
Phil
> Not Found
> The requested object does not exist on this server. The link
> you followed is either outdated, inaccurate, or the server
> has been instructed not to let you have it.
>
> Copied direct from posting below and above is responce. They
> must not like
> me over there. Will try something else, thanks. KABONG
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivets and rivet guns, etc. |
Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
>linn walters wrote:
>
>
>>
>>Lyle Peterson wrote:
>>
>>> apologize if you get several copies of this message. I am subscribed
>>>to several RV lists.
>>>
>> That should cut down on the number of
>>messages somewhat. That's what I try to do.
>>
>>I have an even better suggestion.
>>
>>Use the archive search engine for the various lists. If you run a search
>>on the RV-list archives for rivet guns instead of posting your question
>>to the list, you will get nine gazillion hits with opinions on the
>>various features of the different guns, and the rest of the list will be
>>spared seeing all nine gazillion opinions repeated for the fourth
>>gazillionth time. :-)
>>
>>Sam Buchanan
>>
Sam, you're absolutely right. Amazing how many times the same thread
appears and again takes on a life of it's own. So, now we have three
options:
1. Search the archives first.
2. Ask RV generic questions to the RV-LIST.
3. Ask RV-10 specific questions to the RV-10-LIST.
Any other votes? Nah, really don't want to start a food fight!!!!
Linn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rv6tc" <rv6tc(at)myawai.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EAA Young Eagles paranoid concern.... |
Smoky!
Wow. Nice reference! And from a FIGHTER PILOT???????
Don't let the guys back at the Squadron find out.
Keith Hughes
RV-6 finish
T-38, C-141, B-737
Denver
----- Original Message -----
From: "rob ray" <smokyray(at)yahoo.com>
>
> I for one think Shakespear was right.
>
> RR
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
Neil...one word of advice. I chose to mount mine there as well. I haven't
flown yet, but I made one tiny mistake when building the shelf. I didn't
even think ahead about how the top cowl hinge would stick out about 3/4"
from the top skin flange. The hinge does end up over the aft edge of the
antenna very slightly. I'm not too worried about it being shadowed, since
it's barely covered, but it's something to think about when you build
yours...position your antenna with cowl fasteners in mind!
Photos of my crappy installation on the bottom of this page:
http://www.rvproject.com/20030824.html
Hope this helps,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Neil Henderson" <neil.mo51(at)btopenworld.com>
Subject: RV-List: GPS Antenna
>
> Listers
>
> I'm planning on mounting my GPS antenna on a firewall forward bracket just
under the top surface of the cowl, rather than on the scuttle under the
windscreen or externally. This seems to be a favoured place adopted by many
builders. My question is will this location work satisfactorily with the
standard antenna supplied with a Garmin 196 or is this only appropriate with
a powered active unit. Thanks for your input.
>
> Neil Henderson RV9A nr Aylesbury UK
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rv6tc" <rv6tc(at)myawai.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EAA Young Eagles paranoid concern.... |
Hey Bruce,
I just spilled my Starbucks all over my lap and ran my car into a Home
Depot. Could you help me sue Starbucks, GMC, and Home Depot and help me
(any you) make a few million dollars??
Yes, it's a broad brush. Yes to some it's unfair. But if you can't see
what greedy trial lawyers have done to our economy..... Well, go buy a power
tool or a toaster and look at all the disclaimers packaged therein. The
Trial Lawyers have taken stupid behavior, like bathing with a blow dryer,
and made it criminal negligence on the part of the manufacture, as well as
VERY profitable for their profession. The associated costs get passed on to
consumers (economics 101), many of whom do not have the ability to charge
$300 + dollars per hour to pay for the increased costs. So before you get
your feathers too ruffled, realize that many of us are just plain sick and
tired of the lack of judgment shown in our current legal system.
So taken out of context? Maybe. Lets take a poll and find out how many of
us LIKE it taken out of context. I'll start with a vote in the affirmative.
Have a tort day,
Keith Hughes
RV-6 finish
Denver
Paying too &%$&
%$ much for insurance.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Green" <mailindex(at)juno.com>
>
>
> So Rob Ray, now that you have demonstrated your ignorance of Shakespear,
> do you still think he was right?
>
> Bruce Green
> Eagle N110GM
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bobby Sather" <sather(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EAA Young Eagles paranoid concern.... |
I vote affirmative and believe an attorney should never hold office.
----- Original Message -----
From: rv6tc <rv6tc(at)myawai.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: EAA Young Eagles paranoid concern....
>
> Hey Bruce,
>
> I just spilled my Starbucks all over my lap and ran my car into a Home
> Depot. Could you help me sue Starbucks, GMC, and Home Depot and help me
> (any you) make a few million dollars??
>
> Yes, it's a broad brush. Yes to some it's unfair. But if you can't see
> what greedy trial lawyers have done to our economy..... Well, go buy a
power
> tool or a toaster and look at all the disclaimers packaged therein. The
> Trial Lawyers have taken stupid behavior, like bathing with a blow dryer,
> and made it criminal negligence on the part of the manufacture, as well as
> VERY profitable for their profession. The associated costs get passed on
to
> consumers (economics 101), many of whom do not have the ability to charge
> $300 + dollars per hour to pay for the increased costs. So before you get
> your feathers too ruffled, realize that many of us are just plain sick and
> tired of the lack of judgment shown in our current legal system.
>
> So taken out of context? Maybe. Lets take a poll and find out how many
of
> us LIKE it taken out of context. I'll start with a vote in the
affirmative.
>
> Have a tort day,
>
> Keith Hughes
> RV-6 finish
> Denver
> Paying too &%$&
> %$ much for insurance.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bruce Green" <mailindex(at)juno.com>
> >
>
> >
> > So Rob Ray, now that you have demonstrated your ignorance of Shakespear,
> > do you still think he was right?
> >
> > Bruce Green
> > Eagle N110GM
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Neil,
We installed Getz's hockey puck GPS ant on top of the glare shield. It's
flat black like our glareshield - small and has worked great.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "Neil Henderson" <neil.mo51(at)btopenworld.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: GPS Antenna
>Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 10:22:51 -0000
>
>
>Listers
>
>I'm planning on mounting my GPS antenna on a firewall forward bracket just
>under the top surface of the cowl, rather than on the scuttle under the
>windscreen or externally. This seems to be a favoured place adopted by many
>builders. My question is will this location work satisfactorily with the
>standard antenna supplied with a Garmin 196 or is this only appropriate
>with a powered active unit. Thanks for your input.
>
>Neil Henderson RV9A nr Aylesbury UK
>
>
MSN Shopping upgraded for the holidays! Snappier product search...
http://shopping.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EAA Young Eagles paranoid concern.... |
Amen.
Unless they run on a platform of tort reform.
Bobby Sather wrote:
I vote affirmative and believe an attorney should never hold office.
----- Original Message -----
From: rv6tc
Subject: Re: RV-List: EAA Young Eagles paranoid concern....
>
> Hey Bruce,
>
> I just spilled my Starbucks all over my lap and ran my car into a Home
> Depot. Could you help me sue Starbucks, GMC, and Home Depot and help me
> (any you) make a few million dollars??
>
> Yes, it's a broad brush. Yes to some it's unfair. But if you can't see
> what greedy trial lawyers have done to our economy..... Well, go buy a
power
> tool or a toaster and look at all the disclaimers packaged therein. The
> Trial Lawyers have taken stupid behavior, like bathing with a blow dryer,
> and made it criminal negligence on the part of the manufacture, as well as
> VERY profitable for their profession. The associated costs get passed on
to
> consumers (economics 101), many of whom do not have the ability to charge
> $300 + dollars per hour to pay for the increased costs. So before you get
> your feathers too ruffled, realize that many of us are just plain sick and
> tired of the lack of judgment shown in our current legal system.
>
> So taken out of context? Maybe. Lets take a poll and find out how many
of
> us LIKE it taken out of context. I'll start with a vote in the
affirmative.
>
> Have a tort day,
>
> Keith Hughes
> RV-6 finish
> Denver
> Paying too &%$&
> %$ much for insurance.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bruce Green"
> >
>
> >
> > So Rob Ray, now that you have demonstrated your ignorance of Shakespear,
> > do you still think he was right?
> >
> > Bruce Green
> > Eagle N110GM
> >
>
>
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
Well....yes Sam (and others) are quite right......as far as the argument goes.
I suppose a routine archival search would prove there is "nothing new under
the sun". Who can deny that many basic questions we see posed again and again
have long ago been suitably answered by many sources including (but by no means
limited to) Van's "Preview Plans" or "21 Years of the RVator"? Potential
and/or newbie RV builders benefit greatly from many builder experiences and will
learn soon enough to divine an informed opinion from a stew of ill-informed
fertilizer out there. As far as this list in concerned, I submit that archives,
as valuable a resource as they are, do not provide the sort of dynamic immediacy
that a timely opinion shared by an active list subscriber can offer,
providing of course, he is willing to give it. To my mind, virtually everyone
who participates on this list is here for one of two reasons, to either learn
information or to share information. Is it really t
oo much
to ask to be patient with those who reasonably ask what you so long ago discovered
in your own way? People and fashion come and go all the time. Were this
not so, we'd have nothing to talk about as we silently pass each other on a
nondescript two lane e-road leading into and out of the archives.
Rick Galati RV-6A finishing
Sam Buchanan wrote:
I have an even better suggestion.
Use the archive search engine for the various lists. If you run a search
on the RV-list archives for rivet guns instead of posting your question
to the list, you will get nine gazillion hits with opinions on the
various features of the different guns, and the rest of the list will be
spared seeing all nine gazillion opinions repeated for the fourth
gazillionth time. :-)
Sam Buchanan
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
I have always timed my Lycoming with the #1 cylinder at TDC and the timing
mark aligned with the case halves. This has worked for a long time.
I now want to get more technical and have purchased a fancy digital timing
light that has a LCD screen with direct read out.
My concern is: How to use the light on a running engine...I have an RV6A and
would have to be up on a step stool behind the prop in order to see what's
going on. The notion of slipping off the stool, or otherwise getting tangled
up in the prop has me, frankly, more than "concerned" -I can't see standing
in from of the prop with the engine going and using the light....
What do you techies do in such a situation?
(And, yes, I have checked the archives first.)
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allen Mecum <mecum(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EAA Young Eagles paranoid concern.... |
As a father of two sons who really did not have the love of flying as I do, I want
to thank all of you who did take the risk and make it possible for kids to
find out what it is like to "slip the silvery bonds of earth and touch the face
of god". Both of my sons now love to fly. Thanks to my father Kabong, Gummibear
and the Apple Valley EAA Chapter, we will be a flying family for another
generation .
I still remember my first flight and my sons tell their friends about thiers and
show the video and as they tell the story the RV grin still shows up!
Allen Mecum
rob ray wrote:
Amen.
Unless they run on a platform of tort reform.
Bobby Sather wrote:
I vote affirmative and believe an attorney should never hold office.
----- Original Message -----
From: rv6tc
Subject: Re: RV-List: EAA Young Eagles paranoid concern....
>
> Hey Bruce,
>
> I just spilled my Starbucks all over my lap and ran my car into a Home
> Depot. Could you help me sue Starbucks, GMC, and Home Depot and help me
> (any you) make a few million dollars??
>
> Yes, it's a broad brush. Yes to some it's unfair. But if you can't see
> what greedy trial lawyers have done to our economy..... Well, go buy a
power
> tool or a toaster and look at all the disclaimers packaged therein. The
> Trial Lawyers have taken stupid behavior, like bathing with a blow dryer,
> and made it criminal negligence on the part of the manufacture, as well as
> VERY profitable for their profession. The associated costs get passed on
to
> consumers (economics 101), many of whom do not have the ability to charge
> $300 + dollars per hour to pay for the increased costs. So before you get
> your feathers too ruffled, realize that many of us are just plain sick and
> tired of the lack of judgment shown in our current legal system.
>
> So taken out of context? Maybe. Lets take a poll and find out how many
of
> us LIKE it taken out of context. I'll start with a vote in the
affirmative.
>
> Have a tort day,
>
> Keith Hughes
> RV-6 finish
> Denver
> Paying too &%$&
> %$ much for insurance.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bruce Green"
> >
>
> >
> > So Rob Ray, now that you have demonstrated your ignorance of Shakespear,
> > do you still think he was right?
> >
> > Bruce Green
> > Eagle N110GM
> >
>
>
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Bob Hassel wrote:
>
> Rick and Phil,
>
> I agree with you totally! Something's change and evolve over time, like the
> plans, the tools and if we're really lucky ourselves. Someone may even
> actually have new insight to share or a new approach to an old problem.
>
> If you don't like the question - then use the delete key. Having a bad hair
> day doesn't entitle anyone to give a bad hair day to everyone else.
>
> I've had my list of stupid questions and thankfully, everyone was generous
> with their replies, insight and kindness to me.
>
> So thanks to everyone for putting up with another newbie, who really needs
> and appreciates the wisdom, experience and the kindness that is so often
> freely given on this list.
>
> Sam your experiences are greatly appreciated and sought after. I consider
> you an incredible resource within a group of incredible resources so please
> don't think I'm slamming or flaming here.
>
> Perhaps the newbie questions could be left to those who were recently
> newbie's. Give the 'old timers' a break for the really tough nuts & give
> the recently ex-newbie's a chance to share even if it is just limited
> experience...just a thought.
>
There have been many good comments offered in this thread even though I
am not sassified with the perceived value of one particular
lister...... ;-)
The main point I wished to make was, "check the archives first, and if a
satisfactory answer can't be found, then let the questions fly". We were
all newbies at one point and I am grateful to those who assisted me when
the experimental aviation bug first bit.
One thing that will make it easier to address questions is to make the
questions fairly specific; it is much easier to answer "what is the
difference between a 2X and 3X rivet gun" than to attempt to grapple
with "what is the absolute best rivet gun for building airplanes?".
Best wishes to all the builders who are just now embarking on the
fascinating journey toward flying their home-built aircraft!
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EAA Young Eagles paranoid concern.... |
>
>
>OK... a little closer to home. Remember Van's demonstrator RV-8 crashed
>with 100 or so hours, killing a Van's employee and prospective buyer.
>Remember the disposition of this? According to Van's, the insurance company
>representing Van's SETTLED with the parties bringing suit. Not I'm just a
>dumb-ass West Texas boy, but why would you settle, after an independent
>engineering company verified (very accurately) the calculated strength of
>your design? Have you heard anything indicating that Van had a flaw in the
>wing spar on the RV-8? Have you seen a change to the design? Or could it
>be that the insurance company knew they would save themselves cash by
>settling? Now.... who ULTIMATELY pays that bill? You did, I did, everyone
>who buys ANYTHING at Van's does, because Van has to pay the insurance
>company, and we have to pay Van. Now... were YOU culpable in the crash? I
>know I wasn't, and I haven't seen anything that indicates that Van's
>Aircraft was culpable. Did the lawyers that brought these suits get paid?
>Where did that cash come from? Oh yeah.... and where were the Judges and
>juries in the above?
>
I beg to differ on this example. I agree that there is no evidence
that the design was at fault. The evidence seems to suggest that the
accident was due to an overstress, i.e. pilot error. And the
pilot-in-command was a Vans employee, flying a demo flight for Vans.
So I suspect there is every chance a jury would have found that Vans
was at fault, as the company had a duty to ensure that the demo
flights were flown in a safe and prudent manner.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
Well said Y'All,
I enjoy a good food fight every once in awhile...The positive side of this is the
support for new people out there, keep it flowing! Some of us started our RV's
way before there was an RV List, Van's website or side by side nosedraggers...sure
would have been nice to get questions answered by somebody in the thick
of it...rather than experimentation....
RR
ps: BTW, I don't hate lawyers, just the law system...
Sam Buchanan wrote:
Bob Hassel wrote:
>
> Rick and Phil,
>
> I agree with you totally! Something's change and evolve over time, like the
> plans, the tools and if we're really lucky ourselves. Someone may even
> actually have new insight to share or a new approach to an old problem.
>
> If you don't like the question - then use the delete key. Having a bad hair
> day doesn't entitle anyone to give a bad hair day to everyone else.
>
> I've had my list of stupid questions and thankfully, everyone was generous
> with their replies, insight and kindness to me.
>
> So thanks to everyone for putting up with another newbie, who really needs
> and appreciates the wisdom, experience and the kindness that is so often
> freely given on this list.
>
> Sam your experiences are greatly appreciated and sought after. I consider
> you an incredible resource within a group of incredible resources so please
> don't think I'm slamming or flaming here.
>
> Perhaps the newbie questions could be left to those who were recently
> newbie's. Give the 'old timers' a break for the really tough nuts & give
> the recently ex-newbie's a chance to share even if it is just limited
> experience...just a thought.
>
There have been many good comments offered in this thread even though I
am not sassified with the perceived value of one particular
lister...... ;-)
The main point I wished to make was, "check the archives first, and if a
satisfactory answer can't be found, then let the questions fly". We were
all newbies at one point and I am grateful to those who assisted me when
the experimental aviation bug first bit.
One thing that will make it easier to address questions is to make the
questions fairly specific; it is much easier to answer "what is the
difference between a 2X and 3X rivet gun" than to attempt to grapple
with "what is the absolute best rivet gun for building airplanes?".
Best wishes to all the builders who are just now embarking on the
fascinating journey toward flying their home-built aircraft!
Sam Buchanan
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: EAA Young Eagles paranoid concern.... |
I heard an ad today on a local radio station asking if you have ever lost
money in the stock market ... 401K program, etc ... contact the law firm of _ _
_
you could be entitled to get all of your money back.... this is when I don't
like lawyers ... encouraging frivilous suits ... for their pockets !!!!
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, NC N910LL
166 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Remote control winch? |
I have a winch that was left in my hangar from the
last person that had the hangar. I thought I would
never need it to pull my RV6a into the hangar since
the RV's are easy to push or pull.
The end or March this past year we had some snow that
blanketed the area leaving the taxiway in front of my
hangar very slippery. When I realized I couldn't push
the plane back into the hangar because of the ice, I
grabbed the cable on the winch and hooked it to the
RV.
The winch saved the day!!!
The winch is an old winch and uses an extension wire
you have to unwind all the way to the front of the
plane. Then you have to hold down the switch while the
cable is winding up while your other hand is steering
the front wheel.
Where can I buy something like a garage door remote
control that I could use to replace the extension
wire. I'm looking for the remote and the receiver. I
can find remotes but all the receivers seem to be
attached to the garage door mechanisam. It just needs
to start and stop.
Dan DeNeal
RV6A N256GD
I love my plane!!!
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie & Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Remote control winch? |
Dan DeNeal wrote:
>
>I have a winch that was left in my hangar from the
>last person that had the hangar. I thought I would
>never need it to pull my RV6a into the hangar since
>the RV's are easy to push or pull.
>
>The end or March this past year we had some snow that
>blanketed the area leaving the taxiway in front of my
>hangar very slippery. When I realized I couldn't push
>the plane back into the hangar because of the ice, I
>grabbed the cable on the winch and hooked it to the
>RV.
>The winch saved the day!!!
>
>The winch is an old winch and uses an extension wire
>you have to unwind all the way to the front of the
>plane. Then you have to hold down the switch while the
>cable is winding up while your other hand is steering
>the front wheel.
>
>Where can I buy something like a garage door remote
>control that I could use to replace the extension
>wire. I'm looking for the remote and the receiver. I
>can find remotes but all the receivers seem to be
>attached to the garage door mechanisam. It just needs
>to start and stop.
>
>Dan DeNeal
>RV6A N256GD
>I love my plane!!!
>
The requirement to hold the button might become a very important
damage-prevention feature. How about a switch you can hold in (activate
with) your teeth, wired in parallel to the retract button on your
current controller? It then becomes a 'dead man' switch if you drop it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Remote control winch? |
Not if you put a stop switch on the cable if it gets
that far.
-- Charlie & Tupper England
wrote:
> England
>
> Dan DeNeal wrote:
>
>
> >
> >I have a winch that was left in my hangar from the
> >last person that had the hangar. I thought I would
> >never need it to pull my RV6a into the hangar since
> >the RV's are easy to push or pull.
> >
> >The end or March this past year we had some snow
> that
> >blanketed the area leaving the taxiway in front of
> my
> >hangar very slippery. When I realized I couldn't
> push
> >the plane back into the hangar because of the ice,
> I
> >grabbed the cable on the winch and hooked it to the
> >RV.
> >The winch saved the day!!!
> >
> >The winch is an old winch and uses an extension
> wire
> >you have to unwind all the way to the front of the
> >plane. Then you have to hold down the switch while
> the
> >cable is winding up while your other hand is
> steering
> >the front wheel.
> >
> >Where can I buy something like a garage door remote
> >control that I could use to replace the extension
> >wire. I'm looking for the remote and the receiver.
> I
> >can find remotes but all the receivers seem to be
> >attached to the garage door mechanisam. It just
> needs
> >to start and stop.
> >
> >Dan DeNeal
> >RV6A N256GD
> >I love my plane!!!
> >
>
> The requirement to hold the button might become a
> very important
> damage-prevention feature. How about a switch you
> can hold in (activate
> with) your teeth, wired in parallel to the retract
> button on your
> current controller? It then becomes a 'dead man'
> switch if you drop it.
>
>
>
> Click on the
> this
> generous
> _->
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Remote control winch? |
You might consider the "dead man" switch. All my pipe machines have them,
very heavy duty, looks like a slipper made of metal. OR a sewing machine
foot switch (might be too light duty) that you slip your foot into and slide
on the floor as required. Would think somewhere inbetween these two is right
size. Both work by pushing on pedal that is spring loaded and shuts off when
you lift or remove your foot. They are not remote but are available and
cheap. Do Not Achive KABONG
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie & Tupper England" <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Remote control winch?
>
> Dan DeNeal wrote:
>
> >
> >I have a winch that was left in my hangar from the
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lyle Peterson" <lyleap(at)access4less.net> |
, ,
| Subject: | No subject as you will give it a new one shortly after you flame |
me
SUSPICIOUS_RECIPS
It is so disheartening to learn that aviators are so narrow minded and
selfish. If you people had used one tenth of the energy you expended on
blasting my question to providing useful information, you could have
written a book. As is it you only demonstrated that you 1. Don't know
the answers, 2. Think that your knowledge is so unique that it can't be
shared, 3. You have an immense amount of time to waste, 4. You have
absolutely no respect for other people, whether they be builders or not.
Someone suggested that the question was 'stupid.' The only stupid
question is one that you can't answer!
I checked the archives for the "gazillion" answers to be found there. I
found four and not all of them pertained directly to my question. None
of them covered all the questions I had posed.
A few responded off list. They probably did not want to be caught by
the lords of the list giving information to a new builder. I do thank
those few for the information they so generously shared. They are very
unlike the rest of the listers. Some two thousand people on these lists
and only a very few are willing to answer. Rather, several find the
time to waste flaming the questioner. The thread continues under the
guise of a 'Food Fight.' How charming!
So many messages use an existing subject because so few of you have
figured out how to start a new thread on the list. Shame, shame. Look
at the bottom of the message for the information you need. You don't
even have to ask a question of the list, and thus get flamed for a
stupid question.
I did envision one day flying it to Oshkosh. If I do, which is
doubtful, I will park it in the Vintage area. There are some folks
there that will talk decently to you about airplanes and lots of other
things.
If you get too many copies of this email, use the delete key.
Thanks for nothing,
Lyle Peterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Nolan" <jamespnolan(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Food Fight Watson Reply |
Terry,
Was going to reply to your post directly to you but since I've read some
of the other posts I'll reply online.
Ditto, Ditto, Ditto
Smart people don't make others feel stupid. They usually have patience
and understanding. That must go for the one asking the question as well as
the one answering it.
Jim Nolan
N444JN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Howard Crawford <crawfordh(at)mac.panasonic.com> |
er you flame me
| Subject: | No subject as you will give it a new one shortly aft |
er you flame me
Lyle,
You got my vote. This is the first and last message that I will send
to the RV list. I am tired of reading all the messages that have nothing
to do with building an airplane by the all American Boys Club. If you
don't belong to the club don't talk to us.
I'm going to the RV10 group on YAHOO.
Gone.
-----Original Message-----
From: Lyle Peterson [mailto:lyleap(at)access4less.net]
rv7-list(at)matronics.com; rv8-list(at)matronics.com; rv9-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: No subject as you will give it a new one shortly after
you flame me
It is so disheartening to learn that aviators are so narrow minded and
selfish. If you people had used one tenth of the energy you expended on
blasting my question to providing useful information, you could have
written a book. As is it you only demonstrated that you 1. Don't know
the answers, 2. Think that your knowledge is so unique that it can't be
shared, 3. You have an immense amount of time to waste, 4. You have
absolutely no respect for other people, whether they be builders or not.
Someone suggested that the question was 'stupid.' The only stupid
question is one that you can't answer!
I checked the archives for the "gazillion" answers to be found there. I
found four and not all of them pertained directly to my question. None
of them covered all the questions I had posed.
A few responded off list. They probably did not want to be caught by
the lords of the list giving information to a new builder. I do thank
those few for the information they so generously shared. They are very
unlike the rest of the listers. Some two thousand people on these lists
and only a very few are willing to answer. Rather, several find the
time to waste flaming the questioner. The thread continues under the
guise of a 'Food Fight.' How charming!
So many messages use an existing subject because so few of you have
figured out how to start a new thread on the list. Shame, shame. Look
at the bottom of the message for the information you need. You don't
even have to ask a question of the list, and thus get flamed for a
stupid question.
I did envision one day flying it to Oshkosh. If I do, which is
doubtful, I will park it in the Vintage area. There are some folks
there that will talk decently to you about airplanes and lots of other
things.
If you get too many copies of this email, use the delete key.
Thanks for nothing,
Lyle Peterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <Fred.Stucklen(at)UTCFuelCells.com> |
listers,
I'm traveling to New Mexico next week in my new RV-6A. I'm planning stops
at 29G, 1H0 (overnight), CLK & AEG. Final destination is NM69, a private
strip SE of TCS. Anybody interested in seeing a nice IFR panel
implementation can email me off list for details when I'll be at the above
airports.....
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV
* Wrk E-mail: fred.stucklen(at)utcfuelcells.com
* Hm E-mail: wstucklen1(at)cox.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV Formation Clinic, Jan. 16-18 in Lakeland Florida |
| From: | "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net> |
, ,
,
Howdy,
As many of you know, there is an RV Fly-In held January 17-18 2003 in
Lakeland Florida. This year Team RV's 2nd annual formation clinic is
being held there. Warm weather, blue skies, great facilities, and big
runways all come together to make the perfect location for our winter
training this year. This is a clinic, meaning its hands on. You will
receive both ground and air instruction. This course is focused on the
beginner, with room for the advanced formation flyer. All skill sets are
welcomed and encouraged. There will be experienced instructors there to
help the newcomers, and the experienced pilots will be there to chip in
and gain valuable stick time. We need as many experienced pilots as we
do the new guys. The cost is FREE, the value is priceless.
This is a 2 day event, starting with the ground school portion Friday
night, January 16th at 7:00pm lasting 2 hours. We will have dinner
during the ground school.
Saturday will be spent flying. Lots of flying. Newbees will spend their
first formation flight in the right/back seat of an experienced pilot so
you can first see how its done. Then you will get to fly a 2 ship with
an experienced pilot in YOUR right/back seat. Then you will progress as
your skills dictate.
This is tremendous fun and opportunity for all and I again look forward
to putting this on along with the other Team RV members as well as Stu
McCurdy, the certification program administrator and flight lead for
Falcon Flight. I encourage those of you who have been to one of these to
lets your formation friends, experienced and new, know what a fun and
challenging experience this is. Chime in on the lists, and forward to
your interested RV pilots.
So jump on over to the clinics website at
http://mstewart.net/michael/rv/teamrv/formationclinic/2004/index.htm
read about the details, and register.
We hope to see you there.
Michael Stewart
Team RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming model codes |
Here is a link to a page with all the different designations and the
differences.
http://www.prime-mover.org/Engines/Lycoming/Lyc_Cert_list.html
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaaal
>
> >
> >Does anyone know where I could obtain a listing of the model code
designations for the different models of Lycoming engines?
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: PIREP first flight |
RV-List message posted by: "MSices"
>
>
>I want to thank all of you who replied with helping ideas concerning my
>first flight jitters. In the end I found a great local pilot, Bill Bruns,
>to do my first flight. First flight took place Friday, November 14 at
>around 11am. Bill flew above the airport at about 3000 feet. After
>landing, Bill rolled back the canopy and said, "you've got a good airplane
>here." That afternoon, on her -real- first flight, I took her up and can
>confirm that statement. Everything tracked straight and true. The plane
>is
>a lot easier to land than I had envisioned. Take-off is a blast - after
>getting the tail up, I added full power, and it throws you back in your
>seat! Those of you who indicated that the -8's want to wheel land were
>correct - after touching down with the mains, I let the stick go neutral
>thinking that the tail would drop on its own, but it didn't - it was just
>happy to be on the mains for a while. Finally, I nudged the stick back to
>finish out a nice landing. The stall is very benign - no wing drop at all.
>What a thrill!
>
>Only sqwauks are slightly low vacuum pressure (regulator adjustment), and
>the prop is hunting a little at high RPM (I think I have this one figured
>out). According to my Vision Microsystem, the highest oil temps were 195
>(but mostly I saw it at 170) and CHT's 395 (mostly at 260-350), so I don't
>seem to have the overheating yet that some report with the angle valve
>engine (it was only 40 deg. outside though). I was too busy calming down
>on
>this short flight to look at speeds or climb rates or anything like that,
>but I will say that I had to bring the throttle way back while I was on
>crosswind in the pattern in order to level off and slow down by the time I
>got abeam the numbers :>.
>
>
>Thanks again for all of your support over the years - looking forward to
>meeting more of you at fly-ins. And, oh yeah, keep squashing them rivets.
>Wanted to type that for a long time.
>
CONGRATULATIONS, Mike! See, told ya it's a sweet airplane. ;) Keep it high
and close to home for a while. HAVE FUN!
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
351 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | flmike <flmike2001(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Remote control winch? |
You might be able to adapt a wireless starter or
keyless entry system like the car alarm guys sell. I
think they can be had for $30 range. Nifty key fob
control. Just be sure it is a stand-alone unit, not
an alarm add-on. If the winch is 12 VDC, then you
have the right power supply too.
Mike
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: PIREP first flight |
Mike,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "MSices" <msices(at)core.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: PIREP first flight
>Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2003 07:20:50 -0600
>
>
>I want to thank all of you who replied with helping ideas concerning my
>first flight jitters. In the end I found a great local pilot, Bill Bruns,
>to do my first flight. First flight took place Friday, November 14 at
>around 11am. Bill flew above the airport at about 3000 feet. After
>landing, Bill rolled back the canopy and said, "you've got a good airplane
>here." That afternoon, on her -real- first flight, I took her up and can
>confirm that statement.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil N" <pnewlon(at)toosan.com> |
| Subject: | 4130 parts showing rust through primer |
OK, I'll saddle up and be the first to bite!
I'm stopping by Loeb Electric tonight after work to pick up my new
infrared heater so that I can start priming the stack of parts that's
accumulated on my bench over the last week. Before I do that, can you
expound a little on the problems you've seen with 4130 parts showing
rust through the primer?
I'd sure hate to have the same problem, and if I'm using the primer in
question I may reconsider or redouble my efforts at getting as
near-perfect a surface before priming.
TIA, Phil
Getting sassified with a little work on the tail (I can spell that
better than empennage :-)
> Will probably post some .jpg's of the 4130 parts that are
> showing rust through one of the most frequently mentioned primers.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: No subject as you will give it a new one shortly after |
you flame me
Lyle Peterson wrote:
>
> It is so disheartening to learn that aviators are so narrow minded and
> selfish.
Hmmmmm.....doesn't sound like the hundreds of aviators I have been
honored to meet over the years.....
>
> Someone suggested that the question was 'stupid.' The only stupid
> question is one that you can't answer!
That is a stretch. One poster referred to his questions as "stupid".
Matter of fact, I bet all of us have asked some stupid questions at one
time or another! :-)
>
> I checked the archives for the "gazillion" answers to be found there. I
> found four and not all of them pertained directly to my question. None
> of them covered all the questions I had posed.
Interesting. Here are the results of my searches in the archive with
keywords from the original post:
"rivet gun" 917 hits
"3X" 555 hits
"2X" 971 hits
"rivet sets" 146 hits
"C frame" 89 hits
"swivel set" 70 hits
"yokes" 226 hits
"pneumatic" 968 hits
"rivet squeezer" 291 hits
Obviously nobody would want to read all those posts. But a ton of good
info is in the archives, much more than just "four" posts.
> I did envision one day flying it to Oshkosh. If I do, which is
> doubtful, I will park it in the Vintage area. There are some folks
> there that will talk decently to you about airplanes and lots of other
> things.
I am sure that is true. You will no doubt find the "Vintage" aviators to
be very decent folks.......just as you will find the RVers to be if you
change your mind and decide to park in their area. :-)
Matter of fact, many of us have owned Vintage aircraft in the past.
Matter of fact, some of US are beginning to be considered as
"vintage"!?! :-)
> Thanks for nothing,
Lighten up, Lyle. Building an aircraft is going to require MUCH MUCH
more patience than you have exhibited in your post. RV builders are a
great resource as you progress along the path of putting your RV-6 in
the air. Now is not the time to be burning bridges.
Best regards,
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 4130 parts showing rust through primer |
The way I understand it is most primers are not moisture/water proof. This
is dated info though and the newer primers might be. Anyone know for sure?
>
>OK, I'll saddle up and be the first to bite!
>
>I'm stopping by Loeb Electric tonight after work to pick up my new
>infrared heater so that I can start priming the stack of parts that's
>accumulated on my bench over the last week. Before I do that, can you
>expound a little on the problems you've seen with 4130 parts showing
>rust through the primer?
>
>I'd sure hate to have the same problem, and if I'm using the primer in
>question I may reconsider or redouble my efforts at getting as
>near-perfect a surface before priming.
>
>TIA, Phil
>Getting sassified with a little work on the tail (I can spell that
>better than empennage :-)
>
>> Will probably post some .jpg's of the 4130 parts that are
>> showing rust through one of the most frequently mentioned primers.
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Safety Concerns |
Your Lycoming is "hard" timed. It doesn't vary. That is why there are
schemes to retard the fixed timing for starting... Impulses and show of
sparks. Once running the stock mag doesn't change its timing. So static
timing works very well for your engine. No need for a dynamic timing light.
Now if you put on an electronic ignition, then and only then you might need
a timing light. But even these are timed from a fixed point. With your
car, they are load and rpm dependent so the need for dynamic timing. I
would save my money for something else.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com>
Subject: RV-List: Safety Concerns
>
> I have always timed my Lycoming with the #1 cylinder at TDC and the timing
> mark aligned with the case halves. This has worked for a long time.
>
> I now want to get more technical and have purchased a fancy digital timing
> light that has a LCD screen with direct read out.
>
> My concern is: How to use the light on a running engine...I have an RV6A
and
> would have to be up on a step stool behind the prop in order to see what's
> going on. The notion of slipping off the stool, or otherwise getting
tangled
> up in the prop has me, frankly, more than "concerned" -I can't see
standing
> in from of the prop with the engine going and using the light....
>
> What do you techies do in such a situation?
>
> (And, yes, I have checked the archives first.)
>
> John
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil N" <pnewlon(at)toosan.com> |
| Subject: | OT: Can I make this engine work in my -8 somehow? |
I don't think the battery in the tail will help much with the CG
though. The wife might complain about the fuel burn, too.
http://www.bath.ac.uk/~ccsshb/12cyl/
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Remote control winch? |
I have made several winches using a coaster brake from a bike. One feature
you should always use is a low voltage relay on the control cord. I used a
heating pump relay that used 12 volts to control the 110 going to the motor.
Then in bad weather or if you dropped the switch into a puddle, there would
not be a shock hazard. The relay also eliminates the voltage drop from the
long control cable and you can use very light cord for the control.
If you really want to hold 110 AC in your hand, made sure that your winch is
plugged into a Ground Fault Interrupter (GFI) These are cheap ($10) and
work well.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie & Tupper England" <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Remote control winch?
>
> Dan DeNeal wrote:
>
> >
> >I have a winch that was left in my hangar from the
> >last person that had the hangar. I thought I would
> >never need it to pull my RV6a into the hangar since
> >the RV's are easy to push or pull.
> >
> >The end or March this past year we had some snow that
> >blanketed the area leaving the taxiway in front of my
> >hangar very slippery. When I realized I couldn't push
> >the plane back into the hangar because of the ice, I
> >grabbed the cable on the winch and hooked it to the
> >RV.
> >The winch saved the day!!!
> >
> >The winch is an old winch and uses an extension wire
> >you have to unwind all the way to the front of the
> >plane. Then you have to hold down the switch while the
> >cable is winding up while your other hand is steering
> >the front wheel.
> >
> >Where can I buy something like a garage door remote
> >control that I could use to replace the extension
> >wire. I'm looking for the remote and the receiver. I
> >can find remotes but all the receivers seem to be
> >attached to the garage door mechanisam. It just needs
> >to start and stop.
> >
> >Dan DeNeal
> >RV6A N256GD
> >I love my plane!!!
> >
>
> The requirement to hold the button might become a very important
> damage-prevention feature. How about a switch you can hold in (activate
> with) your teeth, wired in parallel to the retract button on your
> current controller? It then becomes a 'dead man' switch if you drop it.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steven Eberhart <newtech(at)newtech.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 4130 parts showing rust through primer |
THe plane is an RV-8 that was delivered before Van's switched to powder
coating the 4130 steel parts. We have had to clean up rust that was
starting to show through the elevator and rudder brackets. It was like
the primer was porous and didn't seal against moisture. The paint used
was RM DP-40. THere seems to be a distinct difference between the RM DP
primer and the PPG DP primer. I cleaned up the rust with a wire wheel
on the Dremel and primed with NAPA rattle can self etching primer and
then everything was primed with the same PPG DP-40LF that the entire
plane was primed with. Color coats were PPG Concept.
Steve Eberhart
Finishing up the paint job on RV-8 N49KS and building RV-7A N14SE
Phil N wrote:
>
> OK, I'll saddle up and be the first to bite!
>
> I'm stopping by Loeb Electric tonight after work to pick up my new
> infrared heater so that I can start priming the stack of parts that's
> accumulated on my bench over the last week. Before I do that, can you
> expound a little on the problems you've seen with 4130 parts showing
> rust through the primer?
>
> I'd sure hate to have the same problem, and if I'm using the primer in
> question I may reconsider or redouble my efforts at getting as
> near-perfect a surface before priming.
>
> TIA, Phil
> Getting sassified with a little work on the tail (I can spell that
> better than empennage :-)
>
>
>>Will probably post some .jpg's of the 4130 parts that are
>>showing rust through one of the most frequently mentioned primers.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: No subject as you will give it a new one shortly after |
you flame me
Sam Buchanan wrote:
>Lighten up, Lyle. Building an aircraft is going to require MUCH MUCH
>more patience than you have exhibited in your post. RV builders are a
>great resource as you progress along the path of putting your RV-6 in
>the air. Now is not the time to be burning bridges.
>
>Best regards,
>
>Sam Buchanan
>
Very true. Patience and a little thicker skin.
From the posts, you've been around a long time. How long? Which RV?
Linn (the instigator) Walters
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 4130 parts showing rust through primer |
Steven Eberhart wrote:
>
>THe plane is an RV-8 that was delivered before Van's switched to powder
>coating the 4130 steel parts. We have had to clean up rust that was
>starting to show through the elevator and rudder brackets. It was like
>the primer was porous and didn't seal against moisture. The paint used
>was RM DP-40. THere seems to be a distinct difference between the RM DP
>primer and the PPG DP primer. I cleaned up the rust with a wire wheel
>on the Dremel and primed with NAPA rattle can self etching primer and
>then everything was primed with the same PPG DP-40LF that the entire
>plane was primed with. Color coats were PPG Concept.
>
>Steve Eberhart
>Finishing up the paint job on RV-8 N49KS and building RV-7A N14SE
>
Well, I think I got it right. Preparation. Here's what I do, and it
seems to work in the FL humidity.
1. Buy some Ospho from your local hardware store.
2. Let the steel get a little surface rust. Ospho works best when there
isn't shiny steel. No, I don't know why.
3. Brush on the Ospho. If you HAVE to spray it, do so in well
ventilated area and wear a RESPIRATOR. Not a paper mask.
4. Let it dry over a day or so. It will look real ugly with rough
black crap all over it. Lightly sand off the ugly black crap.
5. Repeat step 3.
6. If you get more ugly black crap, do step 4. If not prime with paint
of your choice.
Ospho has acid in it (phosphoric, I think .... read the label. Well,
read it anyway. It also has a dissoved plastic in it that will coat and
seal the steel. the plastic is not durable so you must prime.
Now, for what Steve's problem was. He's right. Primer is porous. It
serves as a base to help make paint stick better. Paint doesn't stick
to bare metal very well, and primer doesn't keep the moisture out.
Together, however, they're a real good team. Steve didn't get the paint
on soon enough. Been there, done that, and stripped it all off to start
over. If you just try and kill the rust and paint over it though, it
will come back later on.
No, I'm not a paint expert, and don't play one on TV, but I've painted
enough to know what has worked for me in the past. Ospho will also work
on aluminum. I have test pieces 20 years old with good paint still on it.
I also caution against mixing types of primer and paint. If you're
going to use urethane paint, use urethane primer. Same with acrylic and
the other flavors.
Hope this helps!
Linn Walters
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard V. Reynolds" <rvreynolds(at)macs.net> |
| Subject: | Pressure (in H2O) versus Airspeed |
I am trying to calibrate my airspeed meter with a water manometer.
I know the relationship is approximately P=K*V
N,
where P = in-H2O, K = Constant, V = knots, N=exponent, 2.
What is the "exact" formula for airpeed versus pressure (in-H2O) which
includes air temperature?
Richard Reynolds, Norfolk, VA, RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rv6tc" <rv6tc(at)myawai.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The natural progresion of lists - was Food Fight, etc. |
Steve,
Well said.
Now. Post those pictures..... I'm very interested in that.
Keith Hughes
RV-6 Finish
Hoping I have the right primer!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steven Eberhart" <newtech(at)newtech.com>
> . When the RV lists settle down a
> little I will discuss some of the problems I have found with some of the
> "primer war" solutions that are in the archives. Will probably post
> some .jpg's of the 4130 parts that are showing rust through one of the
> most frequently mentioned primers.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New anti-corrosion policy from Van's? |
Kevin's remarks below are news to me. If this is true, I feel it's
appropriate to archive this piece of information for future reference. I'll
sure peel plastic in the future! In fact, I'm going to forward this to my
friend who just left us for the Yahoo group. :-)
Jim Sears in KY
> Just got started on my wing kit and found that I will have to buy a
> complete set of wing skins before I get started due to corrosion.
>
> I've had both my emp & wing kit for a couple of years and haven't really
> worked on the kits for a variety of reasons. Recently, I have gotten the
> time and motivation to finish it. With emp done, I started on the wings
> and had them ready for debur/dimple/priming when I started to peel the
> plastic back to reveal what wasn't so apparent through the plastic. A
> corrosion nightmare!
>
> Yeah, I had the kit for a couple of years, but it was stored in a dry
> space and the emp kit sat just as long with no corrosion at all (plastic
> still on!). After soliciting opinions/suggestions from several builders
> in my chapter (EAA 326 - great chapter!!), I had the local FAA guy (also
> a chapter member) come by and render the final fatal verdict. After a
> close inspection, it appears that the plastic coating may have been
> applied when the wing skins were damp since the corrosion is not only on
> the edge, but everywhere.
>
> I called Van's today to beg for mercy and it was decided that I would
> bring back the skins for their review and hopeful exchange (does not
> appear likely). They did make a interesting comment that I suspect that
> none of you have ever heard from them and the reason I am risking
> getting flamed from our resident flamer(s). That is, why didn't I remove
> the plastic "immediately" after receiving/inventoring the kit? Well,
> that was news to me. Certainly I knew not to store in a wet/damp
> environment, but it hadn't occurred to me that a dry environment was
> just as bad.
>
> So builders beware, I guess the new Van's policy when receiving your
> kit is to inventory and IMMEDIATELY remove ALL plastic coatings from
> surfaces. While your admiring the pretty blue plastic after you've
> carefully/skillfully/patiently removed the plastic where you'll be
> riveting; leaving the remainder thinking you are protecting the surface
> from scratches, it's corroding away leaving only the scratches from the
> area that you DID peel the plastics!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pressure (in H2O) versus Airspeed |
How do you tweak the ASI once you find it is off?
>
>I am trying to calibrate my airspeed meter with a water manometer.
>
>I know the relationship is approximately P=K*V
>N,
>
>where P = in-H2O, K = Constant, V = knots, N=exponent, 2.
>
>What is the "exact" formula for airpeed versus pressure (in-H2O) which
>includes air temperature?
>
>Richard Reynolds, Norfolk, VA, RV-6A
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pressure (in H2O) versus Airspeed |
Check the archives...one of the manufacturers of one of those all-in one
flight display systems has instructions in it for making your own...it has
the numbers in it.
Don't remember which one- but I did print it off at home...I'll try to
remember and scan it in....
Ralph Capen
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard V. Reynolds" <rvreynolds(at)macs.net>
Subject: RV-List: Pressure (in H2O) versus Airspeed
>
> I am trying to calibrate my airspeed meter with a water manometer.
>
> I know the relationship is approximately P=K*V
> N,
>
> where P = in-H2O, K = Constant, V = knots, N=exponent, 2.
>
> What is the "exact" formula for airpeed versus pressure (in-H2O) which
> includes air temperature?
>
> Richard Reynolds, Norfolk, VA, RV-6A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New anti-corrosion policy from Van's? |
Kevin,
That's unbelievable!! What the H**l is Alcad coating supposed to
DO!? It sounds to me you got a bad batch of aluminum! I bought the entire
kit at one time and peeled off the plastic in strips to allow riveting and
peeled off the rest prior to priming and painting after 5 years and this was
the white stuff that was hard to get off. The aluminum was pristine under
the plastic!---Don't understand it!
Cheers!!----Henry Hore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pressure (in H2O) versus Airspeed |
>
>How do you tweak the ASI once you find it is off?
>
>>
>>I am trying to calibrate my airspeed meter with a water manometer.
>>
>>I know the relationship is approximately P=K*V
>>N,
>>
>>where P = in-H2O, K = Constant, V = knots, N=exponent, 2.
>>
>>What is the "exact" formula for airpeed versus pressure (in-H2O) which
> >includes air temperature?
>>
For the original poster, you can find the info you need at:
http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rvlinks/asi.zip
This unzips to become an Excel spreadsheet that will convert back and
forth between ASI readings and water manometer readings. Contact me
for assistance if you have any problems with it.
For Scott: If the ASI has a big error, you send it back to the
vendor, or throw it away. I've heard one report of an ASI that was
over 10 mph in error. If the ASI has a small, but acceptable error,
you live with it.
Knowledge of the ASI error is a critical part of the process used to
determine the position error in the static system, assuming you use
one of the techniques that compares IAS against GPS based TAS. If
you are going to fly IFR, it is probably smart to figure out how much
static system error you have, as that translates into an error in the
indicated altitude.
It is also worthwhile making sure you don't have too big an error
even if you only fly VFR, as TCAS equipped aircraft use the altitude
from your transponder to determine whether to climb or dive as they
approach you. If you've got an error in your static system that will
affect the transponder too. And no, the transponder checks done by
the avionics shop don't tell you anything about position error, as
position error is due to the difference between the true ambient
pressure and the pressure at the static port. That error will be
zero in the hangar with the doors closed.
There is lots more info on this subject on my web site:
http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rvlinks/ssec.html
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/phplinks/index.php?&PID=47
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Eastham <eastham(at)netapp.com> |
Anyone have any advice for how to keep the little tabs on the ribs
that fit inside the spar in alignment and sitting down flat? These
are the tabs that will be riveted through the skin.
(This is on a RV-9 HS but I think I've seen these tabs elsewhere in the
various kits)
I can usually bring them into alignment by pushing and prodding them,
and can definitely get a cleco in, but I can't maintain this
pressure and get a bucking bar in there at the same time. Bend them
permanently, you say? Well, some are already riveted to the spar, the
others...it's as if they are bent for a spar that was a little wider
than mine. Flattening out the existing bend then rebending it seems
pretty stressful on the metal to me.
Still struggling with aligning this !#$!#@ HS skin. It is just
way too tight. Problems on the main ribs too...my VS and rudder are
going together fine so I don't think it's total incompetence on my part :)
Paul
http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
PS regarding smoothness of skin rivets: a few are a little rougher on one side
than the other, clearly they are not sitting perfectly flat. Acceptable
to leave the rivet in place? Good task for a rivet shaver? (I know they are
tricky to use, lots of mixed opinions in the archives)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Traveling to Alabama |
I'm planning a trip to Enterprise Alabama to visit my brother-in-law over Thanksgiving.
I plan on heading down on Saturday and staying about a week depending
on weather. Anyone got any advice on leaving a my -8 at the enterprise airport,
or an empty hanger there? I have not had a chance to call the FBO but plan
to do that tomorrow. Anyone have any must see sight while I'm in LA (lower
Alabama)
Thanks
Alan Kritzman
RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | First flight decisions |
Skill and confidence are certainly major factors in how the first flight
gets conducted and by whom. I don't mean to trivialize it but if all goes
well, as it normally does, it boils down to a bragging rights issue. What
doesn't get enough discussion is consideration of the ugly consequences of
bad and worst case scenarios, i.e. if the airplane gets bent/destroyed
and/or the pilot hurt/killed. The normal discussion is limited to "be
prepared to sacrifice the airplane" and "land straight ahead..." I was and
did and it worked out partly because of some other, unconscious, but
nonetheless right for me, decisions. I was shocked afterward by how many
people told me how devastated they would be to lose their aircraft and those
that would be unable to rebuild because of finances or other reasons. It
made me realize that others might follow branches of the decision tree that
I never touched.
I always planned to make the first flight and I prepared for it, so I never
considered the what-ifs of someone else flying my airplane. But maybe we all
should. Will you blame or second guess yourself if you break the airplane?
Can you handle someone else breaking your airplane? Would it be good to have
a scapegoat if something goes wrong;-)? If you pay someone to test fly it
and they get killed, can you rationalize it as a risk of his job? Can you
live with it if it's a good friend doing it as a favor? Is your family
better off if it's not you hurt or killed?
I had full first flight insurance and am otherwise covered but not everyone
is. Can you afford to fix or rebuild the airplane? Can your family afford
the medical bills if you are injured or your loss if killed? Can you afford
to be off work during your recovery? What if you don't fully recover? Can
you afford the legal fallout if someone else flys and is hurt or killed?
Will your spouse let you rebuild if you get hurt vs. a test pilot? Will you
care?
There are many more questions and no right or wrong, better or worse
answers. I pruned much of the decision tree without realizing it and we all
make some of these choices in our normal flying. But first flight and the
test period is a different level of risk warranting a fresh look. Do some
soul searching on the emotional and financial consequences to you and your
family if things don't go well. You may be surprised what you discover.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Safe travels, Glenn |
I care! And take care!
Vince Himsl
RV8-SB
Moscow, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RE: Safe travels, Glenn |
Be Safe Glenn and come back soon.....
Best Wishes,
Kurt Klewin, RV6A, OKC, OK
Maj, USAFR, (Returned from Iraqi Freedom Deployment last May)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6160hp(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: EAA Young Eagles paranoid concern.... |
I believe you will find the EAA minimum level is $100,000 of liability the pilot
must have on himself before the EAA young Eagles policy kicks in for the Million
I believe. Just being a member of EAA and filling out the forms - flying
young eagles doesn't mean you are covered. FOrms must be filled out and signed
before YE flight, pilot must be legal, current and BFR'd and so on....As well
the local EAA chapter must have filled out the insurance coverage request from
stating YE rides are to be given at that event too ... well in advance before
it is a covered...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Remote control winch? |
We've got a remote light switch that I believe we bought at Sears. It mounts in
place of our orig stoop light switch and is controlled by the garage door opener
remote. Sounds like it could be adapted to your needs pretty easily.
Glen Matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pressure (in |
H2O) versus Airspeed
Rich, I've saved several e-mails w/info on manometers for pitot sys
calibration. Since I don't think we can post attachments to the RV-list
(please correct me if I'm wrong), I'll imbed them below - making this a long
e-mail. These 4 e-mails include altimeter cal as well as airspeed.
David Carter
- - - - - - - - - - start of cut & paste e-mails
E-mail #1 of 4:
a test pilot, adds info after the table and explanation below)
>
>17.4/20 0.20
>26/30 0.44
>34.8/40 0.79
>43.5/50 1.23
>50/57.5 1.63
>69.6/80 3.16
>70/80 3.20
>86.9/100 4.94
>100/115 6.56
>104.3/120 7.13
>110/126.5 7.95
>120/138 9.48
>130/149.5 11.14
>130/150 11.18
>150/172.5 14.87
>173.9/200 20.04
>200/230 26.71
>217.4/250 31.63
>
>First column is the airspeed in knots/MPH, second column is inches of
>water. Very simple accurate manometer made with 4 feet if 1/4 inch clear
>tubing from the hardware store and a yard stick and a wire tie. Wire tie
>the tubing onto the yardstick in the form of a long, skinny "u" shape,
>connect one end to the pitot tube and dribble water in the other end of
>the "u" to calibrate AS indicator in your airplane. Leaks indicate
>static or pitot connection leaks somewhere in your system, or AS
>indicator problems. Don't allow water to enter the pitot tube. The
>meniscus or "water level" or air-to-water lines indicate the pressure
>differences as applied to the water coulomb in the poly tubing. The
>length of differences between the two lines is what you are measuring
>(as indicated in the second coulomb in the above table)
>
>
>I've missed this handy table over the years and all the references at my
>house don't have this table. I found this at the Rocky Mt. site, as
>indicated by Jim Anders today.(A bunch of my friends don't have hi speed
>internet or DSL to download the PDF file, or browsers that allow
>external links. This ASCII version will be view able to all and also
>reside in the archives.
>
Kevin added:
I cranked up an Excel 4 spreadsheet that converts between height of
the water column and the airspeed indicator reading. It will work in
mph, kts or km/hr. The zipped spreadsheet file is at:
http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rvlinks/asi.zip
A lot of other good stuff can be found from my Flight Test Links page:
http://members.rogers.com/khorton/ftlinks.html
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fibreglas, yuck)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html
- - - - - - - - - - - -
E-mail #2 of 4:
Jim and all,
Thanks for the long post and all the new data.
Your right about us as a community needing to relate our own experiences for
the benefit of all so something like this won't be repeated.
When I did the first flight on my plane last August I relayed the fact that
my airspeed gage was 20 mph off on my first flight. In retrospect this was
pretty irresponsible of me not to have checked this out before I flew.
Since I have a Rocky Mtn Instruments Micro Encoder, all I had to do was go
to the calibration section of the manual to find out how to build a simple
manometer to check out the pitot system myself. The whole experience took
me about 30 minutes to construct the tool ( a simple clear tubing and yard
stick affair ) that only cost me about $10. Using the chart in the back of
the manual you can tell down to about a mph where you are with regard to
calibration. I have two airspeed indicators in my panel so I can verify one
against the other. You can also use this system to determine if you have a
leak.
The manual for the encoder is on the Rocky Mountain site (
http://www.rkymtn.com/ ) for anyone to download. In encourage everyone to
do this and construct this tool long before your first flight to insure that
what happened to Scott doesn't happen to you.
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( out of the paint shop this weekend... Yippeeeeee )
rv8a.tripod.com
- - - - - - - - - - end of e-mail #2 - - - - - - -
E-mail #3 of 4:
From another e-mail, here is the website for all the above plus vastly more
detail on calibaration of pitot-static system:
http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/instcal/instcal.htm
I just clicked it and it still works. I would go there, then File, Save it
as a document on your hard drive so it won't be lost someday.
- - - - - - - - - -
E-mail # 4 of 4 - Altimeter calibration (not what you asked for, Rich, but
save it.):
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Horton" <khorto1537(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Altimeter calibration
Formulae from Aviation Formulary, by Ed Williams:
http://williams.best.vwh.net/avform.htm
At sea-level on a standard day:
the pressure, P_0 = 29.92126 "Hg = 1013.250 mB = 2116.2166 lbs/ft
2
= 760.0 mmHg = 101325.0 Pa = 14.69595 psi = 1.0 atm
Variation of pressure with altitude:
p= P_0*(1-6.8755856*10
-6 h)
5.2558797 h<36,089.24ft
So, I cranked up a quick spreadsheet and got
Variation of pressure with altitude:
ft in H20 in hg mm hg mb psi
0 407.1 29.92126 760 1013.25 14.69595
1000 392.6 28.86 732.9 977.2 14.17
2000 378.5 27.82 706.7 942.1 13.66
3000 364.9 26.82 681.1 908.1 13.17
4000 351.6 25.84 656.4 875.1 12.69
5000 338.7 24.9 632.4 843.1 12.23
6000 326.2 23.98 609.0 812.0 11.78
7000 314.1 23.09 586.4 781.9 11.34
8000 302.4 22.22 564.5 752.6 10.92
9000 291.0 21.39 543.3 724.3 10.5
10000 280.0 20.58 522.7 696.8 10.11
But, I think this will be a difficult thing to measure unless you can
find some specialized (read expensive) equipment.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (spinner, cowling)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html
Or you could just get out your AC 43.13-1A It has a table in inches of water
for a water manometer and it is accurate and simple. New version
unfortunately does NOT have the table nor instructions.
- - - - - - - - - - - end of quoted e-mails on the topic.
David Carter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Cimino" <jcimino(at)echoes.net> |
| Subject: | RV-Pilot Bed & Breakfast? |
There used to be an organization out there called the "Pilot's Bed & Breakfast",
which if you were a member, you agreed to have traveling pilots stay at your
home when they passed through town. I spent some time with these members and
their families on some long trips in the early 90's and really enjoyed it. Has
anyone though of organizing such a group for our fellow RV Pilots? We all
love our RV's and we love to share them with others as well as talk about them.
The thing that made the original organization great was that you had something
in common with people all over the country and you could spend time with and
meet people who you had already something in common. I think us RV drivers
have a lot in common and I always enjoy meeting new people. I stayed with individuals
from St. Louis to Los Angeles and really had a great time, and saved
some money too. The only expense in the organization was for a yearly catalog
which listed members contact information. With the web, I think this could
easily be done without any expense.
Anyone interested?
James Cimino
RV-8 SN 80039
100+ Hours
570-842-4057
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The natural progresion of lists - was Food Fight, etc. |
I think Steve Eberhart is right on with his comments.
I for one am very glad that after 20 some odd years of building kits the
same way, Van listened when some young engineer said there is a better way
with CAD/CNC technology. The 10 kit and documentation show what new ideas
can produce. The kit is an absolute pleasure to assemble.
Dick Sipp
RV4 N250DS
RV10 N110DV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie & Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-Pilot Bed & Breakfast? |
Jim Cimino wrote:
>
>There used to be an organization out there called the "Pilot's Bed & Breakfast",
which if you were a member, you agreed to have traveling pilots stay at your
home when they passed through town. I spent some time with these members and
their families on some long trips in the early 90's and really enjoyed it.
Has anyone though of organizing such a group for our fellow RV Pilots? We all
love our RV's and we love to share them with others as well as talk about them.
The thing that made the original organization great was that you had something
in common with people all over the country and you could spend time with
and meet people who you had already something in common. I think us RV drivers
have a lot in common and I always enjoy meeting new people. I stayed with individuals
from St. Louis to Los Angeles and really had a great time, and saved
some money too. The only expense in the organization was for a yearly catalog
which listed members contact information. With th!
>e web, I think this could easily be done without any expense.
>Anyone interested?
>
>James Cimino
>RV-8 SN 80039
>100+ Hours
>570-842-4057
>http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
>
try:
http://www.vansairforce.net/rvtravelpages.htm
or
http://www.vansairforce.net/
& scroll down to RV Hotel.
If you are passing through Mississippi, give us a call.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | tip-up rear window fit |
I have the rear window on my RV-6A tip-up close to its final size, but not yet
drilled to the F-674 skin or the roll bar. When I clamp it in place I notice that
it lays flat along the top of the roll bar, but along the sides of the roll
bar, there is about 1/16" gap between the forward edge of the plexi and the
surface of the roll bar. There the plexi contacts the roll bar only at its aft
edge.
When you think of the geometry of the situation, it seems to me that this is inescapable.
The roll bar is built square, that is, the part that the plexi lays
on is perpendicular to the bar's forward and aft faces. But the plexi tapers
towards the back the same way the fuselage does. Since the roll bar is slanted
back, its top edge is tilted at an angle that matches the angle of the plexi,
but the tilt does almost nothing to change the angle that the sides make to
the plexi.
I never noticed noticed this gap on other planes before, but it seems like it's
designed in. I guess one solution would be to cut the forward edge of the window
back further. Right now it is trimmed to put its forward edge 3/8" back
from the forward face of the roll bar - as the plan require.
Have other people seen the same effect? How have you dealt with it?
--
Tom Sargent
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | RV-Pilot Bed & Breakfast? |
Jim
Doug Reeves has such a thing on his web site, he doesn't promote it too much
but it is there with a list of Rvers who are willing to put up others. His
site is
http://www.vansairforce.net/
select RV hotel from the menu on the left.
Joe Hine
RV4 C-FYTQ
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Cimino
Subject: RV-List: RV-Pilot Bed & Breakfast?
There used to be an organization out there called the "Pilot's Bed &
Breakfast", which if you were a member, you agreed to have traveling pilots
stay at your home when they passed through town. I spent some time with
these members and their families on some long trips in the early 90's and
really enjoyed it. Has anyone though of organizing such a group for our
fellow RV Pilots? We all love our RV's and we love to share them with
others as well as talk about them. The thing that made the original
organization great was that you had something in common with people all over
the country and you could spend time with and meet people who you had
already something in common. I think us RV drivers have a lot in common and
I always enjoy meeting new people. I stayed with individuals from St. Louis
to Los Angeles and really had a great time, and saved some money too. The
only expense in the organization was for a yearly catalog which listed
members contact information. With th!
e web, I think this could easily be done without any expense.
Anyone interested?
James Cimino
RV-8 SN 80039
100+ Hours
570-842-4057
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)warpdriveonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-Pilot Bed & Breakfast? |
High time you got acquainted with Doug Reeves.
http://65.219.228.161/rvtravelpages.htm
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://n5lp.net
>
> There used to be an organization out there called the "Pilot's Bed &
Breakfast", which if you were a member, you agreed to have traveling pilots
stay at your home when they passed through town. I spent some time with
these members and their families on some long trips in the early 90's and
really enjoyed it. Has anyone though of organizing such a group for our
fellow RV Pilots? We all love our RV's and we love to share them with
others as well as talk about them. The thing that made the original
organization great was that you had something in common with people all over
the country and you could spend time with and meet people who you had
already something in common. I think us RV drivers have a lot in common and
I always enjoy meeting new people. I stayed with individuals from St. Louis
to Los Angeles and really had a great time, and saved some money too. The
only expense in the organization was for a yearly catalog which listed
members contact information. With th!
> e web, I think this could easily be done without any expense.
> Anyone interested?
>
> James Cimino
> RV-8 SN 80039
> 100+ Hours
> 570-842-4057
> http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael D. Crowe" <tripacer(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | RV10 Tail kit Atlanta area? |
Does anyone in the Atlanta GA area have an RV10 tail kit I could come look
at?
Thank You
Mike Crowe
RV8A wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David.vonLinsowe" <David.vonLinsowe(at)delphi.com> |
Hi guys,
I'm looking for a RV friendly airport in the vicinity of the Wright reenactment
December 17th. If the weather cooperates I would rather take the RV instead
of an airliner. It takes 6 1/2 hours travel time by airliner, not counting the
extra time you need to be there early, and 3 1/2 hours air time by RV from Michigan.
I already have tickets, ground transportation and hotel.
Thanks,
Dave
RV-6
****************************************************************************************
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and thus protected from disclosure. If the reader of this message is not the
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message to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination,
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you have received this communication in error, please notify us immediately by
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Remote control winch |
Electrical departments in places like Home Depot sell remote control
light switches. I think one of these would do the job for you. I used
one once to replace a lost remote for my garage door opener.
Jim Hasper - RV-7 just starting empennage (setting up shop in Franklin,
Tennessee)
(snip)
>Where can I buy something like a garage door remote
>control that I could use to replace the extension wire.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard V. Reynolds" <rvreynolds(at)macs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wright brothers |
In the Norfolrk, VA area, try:
SFQ Suffolk, VA
PVG Hampton Roads Exec (listed under Norfolk in the A/FD)
CPK Cheaapeake Regional (listed under Norfolk in the A/FD)
Due to hurricane Isabel, hangar space is limited as is marina space.
Richard Reynolds, Norfolk, VA, RV-6A
"David.vonLinsowe" wrote:
>
> Hi guys,
>
> I'm looking for a RV friendly airport in the vicinity of the Wright reenactment
December 17th. If the weather cooperates I would rather take the RV instead
of an airliner. It takes 6 1/2 hours travel time by airliner, not counting
the extra time you need to be there early, and 3 1/2 hours air time by RV from
Michigan. I already have tickets, ground transportation and hotel.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave
> RV-6
>
> ****************************************************************************************
>
> Note: The information contained in this message may be privileged and confidential
and thus protected from disclosure. If the reader of this message is not
the intended recipient, or an employee or agent responsible for delivering this
message to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination,
distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited.
If you have received this communication in error, please notify us immediately
by replying to the message and deleting it from your computer. Thank you.
>
> ****************************************************************************************
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
List, Getting ready to fabricate the engine baffles on my RV6-A with an 0-360A1A
and was wondering if anybody who has went the route of a sealed Aluminum Plenum
can give any feedback?
1) Would you do it again?
2) Notice better cooling?
3) Increased speed?
Don Eaves had some great pictures on the List Photo Share but very little
info in the archives.
Tom in Ohio
Cowling and paint
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Eaves" <doneaves(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Plenum |
Hello Tom -
I've been flying My 6 for over 200 hours:
Would I do it again? YES
Cooling has never been a problem - Many "Non-Plenum" RV's have reported
cooling problems.
Increased Speed: In the spirit of Van - I have nothing to compare it to, so
I cannot say if it is faster.
If you have anymore questions just email me - If you would like to call me ,
email me (offline) your number and I will be glad to.
Don Eaves
doneaves(at)midsouth.rr.com
RV 6 Flying 200 + Hrs.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
Subject: RV-List: Engine Plenum
>
> List, Getting ready to fabricate the engine baffles on my RV6-A with an
0-360A1A and was wondering if anybody who has went the route of a sealed
Aluminum Plenum can give any feedback?
> 1) Would you do it again?
> 2) Notice better cooling?
> 3) Increased speed?
> Don Eaves had some great pictures on the List Photo Share but
very little info in the archives.
>
Tom in Ohio
>
Cowling and paint
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Traveling to Alabama |
Alan
You might want to check out the Army Aviation Museum at Ft. Rucker which is
only about 5 miles or so from Enterprise. I haven't been there since the
new one opened, but understand that it is very good.
Dean
RV-9A Fuselage/Finish
----- Original Message -----
From: <N13eer(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Traveling to Alabama
>
> I'm planning a trip to Enterprise Alabama to visit my brother-in-law over
Thanksgiving. I plan on heading down on Saturday and staying about a week
depending on weather. Anyone got any advice on leaving a my -8 at the
enterprise airport, or an empty hanger there? I have not had a chance to
call the FBO but plan to do that tomorrow. Anyone have any must see sight
while I'm in LA (lower Alabama)
>
> Thanks
> Alan Kritzman
> RV-8
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Plenum |
I know 3 people who have gone the plenum route, and from what little info I
have my impression is they are no better than the standard style
baffling.........IF, you do a very good job on the baffling that is. My 8
and another 8 just flew for the first time this month I have standard
baffles and he has the alum plenum. His head temps are 10~15 degrees
hotter. I have dual electronic ign which should make my head temps 10~15
degrees hotter than his but they are lower. I spent a lot of time on my
baffles sealing up everything. Where the baffles seal against the cowl I
did this in 3 pieces and pre curved them to fit the cowl. I spent days
getting this just right, but I am sure glad I did.
>
>List, Getting ready to fabricate the engine baffles on my RV6-A with an
>0-360A1A and was wondering if anybody who has went the route of a sealed
>Aluminum Plenum can give any feedback?
> 1) Would you do it again?
> 2) Notice better cooling?
> 3) Increased speed?
> Don Eaves had some great pictures on the List Photo Share but very
>little info in the archives.
>
> Tom in Ohio
>
> Cowling and
>paint
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com> |
Their are 3 guys at our airport (DNV) that is looking
to upgrade our tickets for VFR to IFR. What we are
looking for is a concentrated course where you can
spend a week and get your IFR rating.
I remember seeing something like this but can't locate
anybody that does it.
Dan DeNeal
RV6A - N256GD (130 hrs)
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: response to military question |
glenn.williams(at)businessacft.bombardier.com wrote:
>
>
>Listers I know this is off subject but someone asked and here is my
>response.
>
>
That's OK, mine is too! This is for Glenn and all the other military
guys that are keeping us safe and sound. Speaking of sound, turn up
those speakers!!! Makes me proud!!!
Linn
Watch this closely. It's so cool what the sea creatures end up doing.
Please be patient as this takes about 1 minute to load...but it's
worth it. Enjoy! (Be sure the sound is on.)
http://www.jacquielawson.com/viewcard.asp?code=1483260750
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | First flight decisions |
>
> Greg, I like your post. I also like the 'me' or 'him'
> dilemma. I flew
Thanks Linn. It's a dilema best sorted out ahead of time.
> >if all goes well, as it normally does, it boils down to a
> >bragging rights issue.
> >
> I agree to a point. For me it was more personal accomplishment than
> anything else. And, I didn't know any other Pitts pilots!
OK, bragging rights is too cavalier but it's still personal pride. It
was for me too. Nothing wrong with that if it doesn't override other
factors.
> I looked up the NTSB report on your accident, but, of course, it says
> the engine quit for unknown reasons. Do you have any theories? I
My working theory is vapor lock precipitated by a rich mixture. In the
next few weeks I plan to send the engine to Aerosport for teardown and
rebuild. At OSH Bart said the teardown and test run should detect any
problem. He also said he's seen other AFP servos that were too rich.
Others saw black smoke on my startups but never mentioned it. I wish
they had - never assume anything unusual you see has already been noted.
> >it as a favor? Is your family better off if it's not you hurt or
> >killed?
> >
> In today's litigous society, this is a very real problem. I would
> rather leave a widow than make one.
I'm sure most of us would sacrifice ourselves when faced with the
hypothetical schoolyard full of kids but in this context it can be
perfectly OK to let someone less risk adverse take the risk. Remember
it's risk not certainty. If you really anticipate a problem, no one
should fly it until resolved.
> >I had full first flight insurance and am otherwise covered but not
> >everyone is.
> >
> How much did that cost? Where did you get the coverage, abd
> how did you
> arrive at the coverage amount? I didn't know it existed.
It's readily available for RVs, try Nationair or others. In my case I
had builders insurance for several years along with the full coverage on
my Citabria from AIG. About a year before I flew, I got an unsolicited
rider saying I had first flight coverage on the RV. When I switched the
RV to full coverage I set the amount based on replacement cost. Policies
are "agreed value" so you don't want to set it lower than you're willing
to sell it to the insurance company.
> I think we all care. Was the medical expenses covered in the first
> flight insurance, or was that a separate policy? Insurance
> from work???
The bulk of the medical expense was paid by my regular health insurance.
The aircraft policy had $2K for medical which just about covered my
deductible and out of pocket. I own my own business so the time off was
a non-issue.
> IMHO, Greg made one mistake that got him caught. The
> narrative said he
> was returning to the airport when the engine quit. On my
> initial flight
> I climbed up to 3000' over my airport (the ceiling of class D at that
> time) and never was very far from safe haven. As the hours
> built up, I
> flew farther .... but always with a lot of altitude.
Even in hindsight I don't consider leaving the airport area a mistake.
It was a conscious, reasoned choice. My field is tower controlled under
a 2000' Class B floor and is surrounded by houses and trees. Open fields
and higher floors start about 2-3 miles west of the field. That gave me
unlimited forced landing sites and much more latitude (and altitude) to
explore the airplane. I had a fresh O/H that needed to run WOT. Getting
away made me more comfortable but others may choose differently or may
still consider it a mistake. That's OK. The true bad choice was not
climbing at the first indication of a mixture problem. I chose to carry
extra speed but stay at pattern altitude. Altitude would have given me
more options. Always climb at any hint of a problem.
> Thanks for giving us something to dwell on while our 'first
> flight' is
> in the future!!!
> Linn Walters
If anyone gleans something from my experience it helps mitigate the
loss. Of course not all lessons stick with us as they should as
evidenced by the recently drilled #30 hole in my index finger. At least
I've learned not to countersink it;-)
Take care,
Greg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)direcpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Plenum |
Tom & Cathy Ervin wrote:
>
>List, Getting ready to fabricate the engine baffles on my RV6-A with an 0-360A1A
and was wondering if anybody who has went the route of a sealed Aluminum Plenum
can give any feedback?
> 1) Would you do it again?
>
no
> 2) Notice better cooling?
>
no
> 3) Increased speed?
>
no
Gary Zilik
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Rozema <hartist1(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Remote control winch? |
Home Depot Wireless Switch... electrical department
Dan DeNeal wrote:
>
> I have a winch that was left in my hangar from the
> last person that had the hangar. I thought I would
> never need it to pull my RV6a into the hangar since
> the RV's are easy to push or pull.
>
> The end or March this past year we had some snow that
> blanketed the area leaving the taxiway in front of my
> hangar very slippery. When I realized I couldn't push
> the plane back into the hangar because of the ice, I
> grabbed the cable on the winch and hooked it to the
> RV.
> The winch saved the day!!!
>
> The winch is an old winch and uses an extension wire
> you have to unwind all the way to the front of the
> plane. Then you have to hold down the switch while the
> cable is winding up while your other hand is steering
> the front wheel.
>
> Where can I buy something like a garage door remote
> control that I could use to replace the extension
> wire. I'm looking for the remote and the receiver. I
> can find remotes but all the receivers seem to be
> attached to the garage door mechanisam. It just needs
> to start and stop.
>
> Dan DeNeal
> RV6A N256GD
> I love my plane!!!
>
> __________________________________
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First flight decisions |
Greg,
Thank you VERY much for this (& all your previous posts). You may've in
deed already saved someone else. BTW, I'm sure you didnot forget to
deburr & prime that hole. :-}
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Greg Young <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
> If anyone gleans something from my experience it helps mitigate the
> loss. Of course not all lessons stick with us as they should as
> evidenced by the recently drilled #30 hole in my index finger. At least
> I've learned not to countersink it;-)
>
> Take care,
> Greg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wright brothers |
Manteo, NC is the nicest and closest if you don't have reservations for FF airport.
Go to Airnav.com for more info and cheap gas closeby.
RR
"David.vonLinsowe" wrote:
Hi guys,
I'm looking for a RV friendly airport in the vicinity of the Wright reenactment
December 17th. If the weather cooperates I would rather take the RV instead of
an airliner. It takes 6 1/2 hours travel time by airliner, not counting the
extra time you need to be there early, and 3 1/2 hours air time by RV from Michigan.
I already have tickets, ground transportation and hotel.
Thanks,
Dave
RV-6
****************************************************************************************
Note: The information contained in this message may be privileged and confidential
and thus protected from disclosure. If the reader of this message is not the
intended recipient, or an employee or agent responsible for delivering this
message to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination,
distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If
you have received this communication in error, please notify us immediately by
replying to the message and deleting it from your computer. Thank you.
****************************************************************************************
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IFR schools? |
Their is one in Albert Lea MN Called MN Aviation. They also have operations
in other MN towns, they do a pretty good job. That is not too far from
Danville. For 3 guys they might come to you.
http://www.private2atp.com/details/1629.html
The owner is Mike Nesbitt, he is a good guy, tell him I sent you.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
>
> Their are 3 guys at our airport (DNV) that is looking
> to upgrade our tickets for VFR to IFR. What we are
> looking for is a concentrated course where you can
> spend a week and get your IFR rating.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IFR schools? |
This is a better link to MN Aviation
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/roedder_gmbh/mike1.htm
Doug Rozendaal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe & Jan Connell" <jconnell(at)rconnect.com> |
| Subject: | Evaluation of ICOM IC-A200 Transceiver |
Gentlemen (and ladies too),
I had decided to install a UPS SL40 in my VFR RV-9A until
the recent Garmin buyout. I'm now contemplating an ICOM
IC-A200 instead. In reviewing the archives, I'm found only 4
postings.
Do any of you have experience and comments about this radio?
Thanks,
Joe Connell RV-9A N95JJ (finishing kit stage)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Plenum |
In a message dated 11/19/2003 6:36:26 AM Pacific Standard Time,
bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com writes:
I have dual electronic ign which should make my head temps 10~15
degrees hotter than his but they are lower.
I heard one of the advertising claims for the electronic ignition was that it
lowered the cylinder head temperature.
Which electronic ignition manufacturer are you using?
Jim Ayers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frederick Oldenburg <foldenburg(at)earthlink.net> |
When the plans call for a drill size (e.g. 3/16), as opposed to a number (e.g.
#12) Am I supposed to use the exact drill size (3/16) or the numbered bit?
For example, on DWG 3 in View A-A, as I understand it, the holes that call for
an AN426AD4-6 or AN470AD4-6 rivet would get a #30 hole. I undertand how this works,
the #30 (decimal 0.1285) is slightly larger then the rivet diameter (4/16
or 1/8 - decimal 0.1250) - no rocket science here.
However, in this view, the plans call for "Enlarge/Drill 3/16 DIA in assembly with
fuselage, 4 places." I assume this to mean that I do not drill this now, but
wait until I am assembling with the fuse. When this happens....am I supposed
to use a 3/16 bit?
Are these assumptions correct?
Thanks,
Fred
Fred Oldenburg
RV-7A - Empennage
http://www.rv.oldsack.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IFR schools? |
I've got to wonder about these one week courses. I just got my
ticket 6 months ago, and it took several months of flying 2-3 times a
week plus ground school studying. I think I had close to sixty hours
of 172 time by the time I took my practical, and I didn't feel ready
even then. Maybe I'm a slow learner (mom has said several times that
I "MUST" have been dropped on my head at birth...) but I don't see
how one could absorb that much info in that amount of time.
Now if you have the ground school done, and 20 or so hours of
previous hood time, I MIGHT be able to believe it could be done.
Now I'm not trying to bust on the schools that do these intense week
classes (I used PIC's text as a basis for real world IFR flying and
thought it was a very good text) but it just makes me wonder.....
Laird RV-6 SoCal
(Flew solo in the clouds for the first time last week....freaky!)
>
>>
>> Their are 3 guys at our airport (DNV) that is looking
>> to upgrade our tickets for VFR to IFR. What we are
>> looking for is a concentrated course where you can
> > spend a week and get your IFR rating.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)comcast.net> |
Hey Guys,
Can anyone tell me if Florida has a sales or use tax for aircraft? What
am I likely to be hit with by the state when I move there in January and
they get wind of my RV?
Regards,
Ken Balch
RV-8 N118KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil N" <pnewlon(at)toosan.com> |
I second this!
Here's what my Flight Safety instructor told me: Your IFR rating is
nothing more than a ticket to learn more. Nobody is ready to tackle
hard weather without considerably more ACTUAL experience. To this day
(16 years later), since I don't get enough time in actual IFR I
typically take a safety pilot along with me if I know I am going to be
in weather. If I hit it along the way, I am trained to handle it but I
don't go looking for it solo. Read the NTSB reports and you'll be
surprised to find how many guys take their newly minted Instrument
Rating into the clouds and bury themselves.
Phil
> I got my ATP through one of those one week course, so I'm not
> really one to talk. But please, do yourself a favor, and if
> you do get a quick IFR ticket, make sure before you fly in
> actual IFR, you get lots of practice with experienced pilots,
> both under the hood and in actual IFR. Learning the
> principals and rules is not at all difficult, but you really
> do need more practice than you can get in a week. Ask anyone
> that's flown a lot in the weather, there are times it can be
> incredibly challenging.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drill Size??? |
Fred,
Yes, your assumptions are correct and strictly speaking you are to use a 3/16 drill
bit. Now heres where I get anal about hole quality as insisted upon and
my shop experience at McDonnell-Douglas. First, I would in assembly and using
a drill block to insure perpendicularity, drill a #40 or #30 pilot hole through
the assembly. Then, using various drill bit sizes on hand, bring the hole
up to the .1800-.1850 range in as many steps as desired. Finally I would use
a .1875 reamer marinated in boelube or similar for the final full size reaming.
When you have an inspector ball gauge every bolt hole you drill, and the
average hole can and will be rejected for being as little as 3 thousanths oversize
or even less, you tend to learn quickly how little the range of acceptability
really is, at least on combat aircraft. In a nutshell, any hole that will
be filled with a bolt, close tolerance or otherwise, should in good practice
be brought up to full size with a reamer. The steps
I just
outlined are certainly not necessary for the average subsonic homebuilt, but I
dont think of my RV as merely average.
Rick Galati RV-6A finishing
When the plans call for a drill size (e.g. 3/16), as opposed to a number (e.g.#12)
Am I supposed to use the exact drill size (3/16) or the numbered bit? For
example, on DWG 3 in View A-A, as I understand it, the holes that call for an
AN426AD4-6 or AN470AD4-6 rivet would get a #30 hole. I undertand how this works,the
#30 (decimal 0.1285) is slightly larger then the rivet diameter (4/16or
1/8 - decimal 0.1250) - no rocket science here.
However, in this view, the plans call for "Enlarge/Drill 3/16 DIA in assembly withfuselage,
4 places." I assume this to mean that I do not drill this now, but
wait until I am assembling with the fuse. When this happens....am I supposed
to use a 3/16 bit?
Are these assumptions correct?
Thanks,
Fred
Fred Oldenburg
RV-7A - Empennage
http://www.rv.oldsack.com
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Traveling to Alabama |
Since I live there most of the time and grew up in "LA", seeing Destin, FL (57nm)
or Dog Island/Apalachicola on a day trip is a must. Stop by my place if you
can (Skyranch, 1 nm North of the CEW VOR) 8 RV's are based on the grass strip,
you're always welcome.
I would see the Army aviation museum as mentioned also.
Have fun.
RR
N13eer(at)aol.com wrote:
I'm planning a trip to Enterprise Alabama to visit my brother-in-law over Thanksgiving.
I plan on heading down on Saturday and staying about a week depending
on weather. Anyone got any advice on leaving a my -8 at the enterprise airport,
or an empty hanger there? I have not had a chance to call the FBO but plan
to do that tomorrow. Anyone have any must see sight while I'm in LA (lower Alabama)
Thanks
Alan Kritzman
RV-8
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil N" <pnewlon(at)toosan.com> |
| Subject: | Deburring parts and squaring rib flanges |
I've been plugging along making a stack of deburred HS ribs this week.
It takes me something like 20-30 minutes of deburring per piece to get
what I consider a satisfactory part based on Van's instructions.
Tedious is the word for this, but I thought it was what must be done. I
was reading a RV8 website last night (can't remember which one) and the
guy stated "it took two hours to deburr and square the flanges of the
ribs for the HS". Sheesh, I have twice that already and am not even
done deburring let alone squaring!
Is 20-30 minutes per rib for deburring excessive (perfectionism)? (File,
v-groove deburring tool, Scotchbrite wheel on exposed edges, hand sand
nooks and crannies with 400 emery cloth)
What about squaring the flange, do I just hand bend the edges to the
point they look pretty close or do I need to get out my square and
seamer and make sure they're perfect?
Yup, there sure are references to squared flanges in the archives. But
"straighten them or you'll see them" doesn't tell me if eyeballing is
sufficient or if I need to get the square out. (OK, I need a little
reassurance here..... I'll take my "insecure perfectionist" issues up
with a shrink as soon as I am done building and have the spare time :-)
While I'm at it, I'll ask about fluting to straighten the ribs. My ribs
range from no bow to the worst being bowed 3/32 (HS806?) I figured to
get the 3/32 ones down to the 1/16th range but leave the rest alone. Is
1/16th inch bow good, or should I spend another 5 minutes per part
trying to get them closer than that? (and run the risk of ruining
one....) It is my assumption that, as wide as the rib is, if I get it
within 1/16th and properly positioned in relation to the PP holes, I
will be good to go.
Thanks!
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Plenum |
I am using LightSpeed elect ign. It lowers exhaust gas temps and raises
cylinder head temps. This is due to all the mixture burning in the
combustion chamber and none in the exhaust.
>
>In a message dated 11/19/2003 6:36:26 AM Pacific Standard Time,
>bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com writes:
>I have dual electronic ign which should make my head temps 10~15
>degrees hotter than his but they are lower.
>I heard one of the advertising claims for the electronic ignition was that it
>lowered the cylinder head temperature.
>
>Which electronic ignition manufacturer are you using?
>
>Jim Ayers
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FL tax question |
Ken,
Depending on the county you are in, sales tax ranges from 6.5% and higher
(7% here in Indian River County). There is no personal property tax here
like there is in some states, like North Carolina for example. If you are
moving to Florida and have already paid the sales tax on your car or
airplane in another state, you do not owe Florida sales tax--unless it has
been less than 6 months since you paid the sales tax. Sounds to me like you
will not owe any sales tax at all...disclaimer: I am not a tax attorney and
what I am telling you is my personal experience only!
Hope this helps.
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 QB (Building)
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Balch" <kbalch1(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: FL tax question
>
> Hey Guys,
>
> Can anyone tell me if Florida has a sales or use tax for aircraft? What
> am I likely to be hit with by the state when I move there in January and
> they get wind of my RV?
>
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> RV-8 N118KB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Denso Alternator Part # |
Can anyone comment on the commercial usage of a Nippon Denso alternator part number
18504-6220? An alternative part number is 100211-1680, apparently the actual
manufacturer is Ishikawajina and this is their part number. IOW, is there
car make/model/year that utilizes this alternator?
The situation is that I have one of this alternators on my -6A that came with an
Aerosport O-320 (it's the 35 A alternator). It works really well and I would
like to retrofit one to my RV-3 and a local autoparts house would be a convenient
source.
If someone could quote the Canadian Tire product number (they're a big chain of
car parts places in the GWN) that would be worth some bonus points.
thanks,
Jim Oke
Winnipeg, MB
RV-6A C-GKGZ
RV-3 C-FIZM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
John,
let me add a little too much to Cy's response.
First, roughly said, timing is set to cause the maximum average of pressure
created to exchange the most amount of rotary force into the crankshaft. The
rate of fuel burn (180-220ft per sec) doesn't vary much within normal
oprating air/fuel ratios. So if the piston is coming up faster then one has
to spark it earlier to achieve the above stated pressure cycle at the right
time. This pressure timing point is known as Powell's magic angle (15 deg
ATDC) and is true for all reciprocating engines. The other factors that
effect the spark timing point is the rate that the induction and exhaust can
ventilate the cylinder, and what RPM range the engine is designed to deliver
its torque. In any event RPM is the big factor in spark timing.
Because aircraft engines are coupled to their drive environment
hydraulically (ie a prop in air) rather than in a fixed fashion like a tire
on the road, and the fact that this prop has a fairly tight range of torque
conversion to thrust (ie AOA of the wing shape only delivers load to the
engine, or thrust from the engine in a fairly narrow range of RPM, where a
car has to deliver high torque from just above idle to max RPM) they only
really need to be timed for a narrow range of RPM. Its easier and more
reliable to fix the timing for one RPM value, below that RPM they are over
advanced, and above that RPM they are under advanced in timing.
So lets say one sets the mags to be most efficent at 75% power which for a
fixed pitch which might be 2400 RPM. (This may vary slightly with constant
speed engines, but the usually aim for a similar timing RPM, and that said,
a constant speed engine is one place that an advanced electronic ignition
can really add to fuel efficiency) If the engine goes above this the timing
is retarded for that RPM, which is good because it reduces detonation some.
If it goes below then it is too far advanced, but who cares because at power
settings below 75% a little advance will add power without causing
detonation. In any event the total RPM range from 50% to 100% power might be
600 rpm rather than the 4000 rpm range you would find in a ground engine.
The only time there is a problem is when starting, as the timing is way too
advanced for 150-300 RPM. In this case they use devices to retard only
during starting such as an impulse coupler or shower of sparks.
Therefore having the time change in an aircraft engine doesn't do much. And
having it right on to the 10th of a deg is meaningless becasue you are just
saying it most effecient at 2400 rpm rather than 2410. Who cares. It is far
more important to get both mags equal then it is to get them on the right
deg. And most specs allow for a fairly wide range of error, say .5 to 1.5
degs.
Given that the radius of the ring gear is roughly 10 inches, the
circumference is 62.8", therefore each degree is roughly 3/16" of travel at
the ring gear. With static timing methods that's a lot of sensitivity, there
is no need to have a fancy dynamic device for setting this. The real
advantage of dynamic timing is it allows one to also test the advancing
features of the automotive distributor, but I can assure you that I can get
an automotive distributor as accurately timed satically as I can
dynamically. I've done it many times when its a bitch to get the timing gun
aimed on the pully.
This is probably far more than you ever wanted to know though.
W
From: "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com>
Subject: RV-List: Safety Concerns
I have always timed my Lycoming with the #1 cylinder at TDC and the timing
mark aligned with the case halves. This has worked for a long time.
I now want to get more technical and have purchased a fancy digital timing
light that has a LCD screen with direct read out.
My concern is: How to use the light on a running engine...I have an RV6A and
would have to be up on a step stool behind the prop in order to see what's
going on. The notion of slipping off the stool, or otherwise getting tangled
up in the prop has me, frankly, more than "concerned" -I can't see standing
in from of the prop with the engine going and using the light....
What do you techies do in such a situation?
(And, yes, I have checked the archives first.)
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Oil for engine start |
Thanks for the reply- Notes "imbedded" below....
> Well, let me ask why not change the oil and filter instead. Oil is
> cheap. Filters are cheap. Your engine is not. Cheap insurance.
>
Agreed- just curious if the oil could actually "age" lying dormant in the
engine four years- has had dessicant plugs in entire time and cover plates bolted
to exhaust & carb openings- breather & all oil ports plugged... I mean, if
there is nothing "wrong" with the oil, why toss it out?
> > It has about 850TT on it, is an E3D (150hp) and has been rotated
> regularly since
> >purchased.
> >
> This was not really a good thing. Our engines hold all their oil in the
> sump, and you cannot turn it over fast enough for the oil pump to do any
> good. The oil will drain off everything, leaving a very thin film of
> oil in the bottom of the cylinder walls. When you turn the crank, the
> rings scrape that thin film off and you have metal to metal contact.
> The oil will not stay there.
>
Clarification- Until bolting to the mount, it was on an engine stand and
rotated, or flipped over to submerge the cam & coat the cylinders every couple
of
months. I also spun it with the starter (plugs out) about once a year until a
gauge connected to it showed pressure, about 30-35 psi IIRC.
> >Also, I have no idea how long since the Marvel carb that came with the
> engine
> >has been operated. Is there any particular risk with just bolting it up
> and
> >seeing if it is OK or is an overhaul normally recommended?
> >
> This isn't easy to answer, but I'll try. If the carb does NOT have a
> throttle pump, I would fill it with fuel and operte the mixture control
> to make sure it's fee and just bolt it on and go with no worries. If
> there is a throttle pump, I'd fill it with fuel, operate the mixture
> control, and work the throttle pump to see if it'll spray fuel down the
> throat. If it's wimpy ..... overhaul it. If all seems to work well,
> just bolt it on and go with no worries.
>
It has the pump- basically just checking that the pump seal is pliable enough
not to leak?
> Either way, the engine will run well or it won't, and if it won't then
> there's always the overhauler. You'll run the engine a fair amount of
> time before you're ready to fly so the overhauler time won't set you back.
>
Time's not the problem- it's the spare change to the overhauler that would be
a setback- remember it's a USED engine!! 8-)
Thanks again-
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Evaluation of ICOM IC-A200 Transceiver |
In a message dated 11/19/2003 11:40:35 AM Eastern Standard Time,
jconnell(at)rconnect.com writes:
Gentlemen (and ladies too),
I had decided to install a UPS SL40 in my VFR RV-9A until
the recent Garmin buyout. I'm now contemplating an ICOM
IC-A200 instead. In reviewing the archives, I'm found only 4
postings.
Do any of you have experience and comments about this radio?
Thanks,
Joe Connell RV-9A N95JJ (finishing kit stage)
Joe:
I have the ICOM ... have had no problems ... receive and transmit clearly.
Wish it had standby freqency monitor though !!!
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, NC N910LL
166 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Deburring parts and squaring rib flanges |
Of course my RV9A is not flying yet, so take my advice with a grain of
salt... :-)
I had the same concern you seem to have when I started. So I called
Van's and they said that if you cannot cut yourself on the part you have
deburred it enough. The only real problem that deburring must do is to
eliminate stress risers that might cause fractures in the future. When
the aluminum is cut there are small "bumps" where one set of
cutters/shears end and another starts. These could be a problem over
the long term. Therefore, they must be removed. Anything beyond that
is gravy. If you continue doing what you are doing your plane may last
longer than mine. On the other hand, they will both last longer than
either one of us will care about!
After I got into the groove of deburring, it didn't take all that long.
What I ended up doing was to use a file or the 6" scotchbrite wheel to
remove the tooling marks from the edges. Then I found that I could
remove the sharp corners from the edges better with the standard
deburring tool. I found that the dual (V-groove) tool tended to leave a
burr unless I went over it several times. The standard deburring tool
worked with one pass. Most nooks and crannies can be reached with the
standard deburring tool.
As far as fluting goes... The amount of bend depends on the curve of
the part. You are going to have some parts bowed a whole lot more than
the 3/32 you have seen so far as you move along to the wings and
fuselage! Once you get the hang of it you will be able to flute a part
in short order and will be able to judge how much to flute without
constantly checking. When I reached that state, I would just flute the
part completely and then do a quick check by laying it flat on my bench
or other flat surface. I was usually able to get it within 1/16 on the
first pass and then tweak one or two flutes to get it perfect. The
bottom line is that it doesn't take long and when you get the hang of it
you will be able to get it virtually perfect with little effort.
I always did the flanges after the fluting and just bent them by hand in
most cases. I checked them by using a square held against the flat side
of the part and checking the squareness of the flange. Again, I have
been able to get them square quite easily and quickly.
I think that as you gain experience you will get faster and more able to
do what you have to do by eye with just a final check with the square or
the tabletop.
Dick Tasker, RV9A, 90573
Fuselage
Phil N wrote:
>
>
>I've been plugging along making a stack of deburred HS ribs this week.
>It takes me something like 20-30 minutes of deburring per piece to get
>what I consider a satisfactory part based on Van's instructions.
>Tedious is the word for this, but I thought it was what must be done. I
>was reading a RV8 website last night (can't remember which one) and the
>guy stated "it took two hours to deburr and square the flanges of the
>ribs for the HS". Sheesh, I have twice that already and am not even
>done deburring let alone squaring!
>
>Is 20-30 minutes per rib for deburring excessive (perfectionism)? (File,
>v-groove deburring tool, Scotchbrite wheel on exposed edges, hand sand
>nooks and crannies with 400 emery cloth)
>
>What about squaring the flange, do I just hand bend the edges to the
>point they look pretty close or do I need to get out my square and
>seamer and make sure they're perfect?
>
>Yup, there sure are references to squared flanges in the archives. But
>"straighten them or you'll see them" doesn't tell me if eyeballing is
>sufficient or if I need to get the square out. (OK, I need a little
>reassurance here..... I'll take my "insecure perfectionist" issues up
>with a shrink as soon as I am done building and have the spare time :-)
>
>While I'm at it, I'll ask about fluting to straighten the ribs. My ribs
>range from no bow to the worst being bowed 3/32 (HS806?) I figured to
>get the 3/32 ones down to the 1/16th range but leave the rest alone. Is
>1/16th inch bow good, or should I spend another 5 minutes per part
>trying to get them closer than that? (and run the risk of ruining
>one....) It is my assumption that, as wide as the rib is, if I get it
>within 1/16th and properly positioned in relation to the PP holes, I
>will be good to go.
>
>Thanks!
>
>Phil
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Evaluation of ICOM IC-A200 Transceiver |
Echo Len's sentiments on the A200. After 3 years or so, the rubber sleeves on
the tuning and volume knobs dry-rotted and fell off, but I can still turn them
fine with my fingers on the bare metal. I've been too lazy to contact ICOM for
replacement part$.
-Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)direcpc.com> |
| Subject: | LED Warning Lamps |
Netscape/7.1 (ax)
Disclaimer - I have searched the archives
I plan on using some small LED's as and enunciator panel for such things
as low fuel, starter engaged, low volt, etc. I bought some neat little
led's from mouser and the other night I wanted to see how bright they
were. Well, I'm here to tell ya their real bright for a nanosecond when
12 volts is applied. It seems pretty obvious I need a simple power
supply or something inline with them to lower the voltage. Any of you
electronic geniuses have an easy fix???? Vondane???
Gary Zilik
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | rv-list stupid questions |
| From: | smoothweasel(at)juno.com |
To the new builder - keep asking the questions.
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A
Thanks Chuck...........
Joel "Weasel" Graber
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: LED Warning Lamps |
Try placing a 4.7V 1W Zener Diode on the positive lead to the LED and a 1/4 watt
620 Ohm Resistor on the negative lead of the LED. This should let you use a
dimmer on the LED's also.
Thank Randall Henderson for this. I used two LED's in my roll bar on the pilot
side to illuminate the 6 flight instruments. All my other gauges are lighted.
John Danielson
RV-6 175 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com> |
Yes, you will be using a 3/16" bit (or, for the a-retentive, a smaller
size followed by a 3/16" close-tolerance reamer). If you look ahead in
the plans, you will be using 3/16" bolts here, which is why you wait and
drill in assembly (to ensure correct alignment). For your wing spar,
you will be using close-tolerance bolts and holes; for the other
attachment points it is not as critical but the closer the better.
Generally, for bolts, you want a uniformly round hole loose enough for a
slip fit (so as not to damage the bolt's shank when inserting it) and
tight enough to prevent the joined parts from wiggling. Resist the urge
to overtighten the bolt to prevent the latter; if you tighten a bolt
enough to resist lateral forces you have almost certainly weakened the
shank. I tightened my wing rib bolts by hand before acquiring a torque
wrench and ended up replacing them all because I had overtorqued them by
a factor of about 3! Generally, a fractional drill will do an adequate
job for normal AN bolts, which are sized in 1/16" diameter increments
but good practice is to drill the next number size smaller and ream to
fit the particular bolt.
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - the hard way (still skinning the fuselage)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Frederick
Oldenburg
Subject: RV-List: Drill Size???
When the plans call for a drill size (e.g. 3/16), as opposed to a number
(e.g. #12) Am I supposed to use the exact drill size (3/16) or the
numbered bit?
For example, on DWG 3 in View A-A, as I understand it, the holes that
call for an AN426AD4-6 or AN470AD4-6 rivet would get a #30 hole. I
undertand how this works, the #30 (decimal 0.1285) is slightly larger
then the rivet diameter (4/16 or 1/8 - decimal 0.1250) - no rocket
science here.
However, in this view, the plans call for "Enlarge/Drill 3/16 DIA in
assembly with fuselage, 4 places." I assume this to mean that I do not
drill this now, but wait until I am assembling with the fuse. When this
happens....am I supposed to use a 3/16 bit?
Are these assumptions correct?
Thanks,
Fred
Fred Oldenburg
RV-7A - Empennage
http://www.rv.oldsack.com
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | New anti-corrosion policy from Van's? |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Walker" <ron(at)walker.net> |
| Subject: | Re: LED Warning Lamps |
Your problem is that you need to add a resistor in series with the LED.
Essentially the LED alone created a short circuit on the power supply until
it burned out.
Using ohms law of V = IR, re-arranging to resolve resistance R = V/I. So,
voltage will be 12 - assuming a standard battery, current is the current
rating of the LED - assuming 20ma, the resistance would be .... hmm ... well
just read this web site page and it explains it MUCH better than me!
http://www.theledlight.com/LED101.html
Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
I am going to use three or four of the little "eyeball"
lights from VANS for interior and panel lighting and I was wondering if
people that have used these before have any recommendations on mounting
locations. It is an RV6 slider. (Close to finished)
Thanks,
Dick Dial
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | marvel carb fuel line attach question |
I am attaching the fuel line to the marvel carb on my 0-320. I need the fitting
that screws into the carb for attaching the fuel line.
Is that a special fitting or just a 1/8NPT or a flare fitting where it screws into
the carb?
Thanks,
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok RV6
N296JC res
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | LED Warning Lamps |
| From: | <John.Morrissey(at)csiro.au> |
Hi Gary,
All you need is a resistor to limit the current into the LED. Most leds
require around 20 ma, so for 12 Volts at 20 ma try a 720 ohm resistor
for about 16ma of current (E=IR or Volts = Current in Amps X Resistance
in ohms)
Have a look at
http://www.grc.nasa.gov/WWW/K-12/Sample_Projects/Ohms_Law/ohmslaw.html
Why 720 ohms? That's a standard resistor size and allows a little leeway
for voltage spikes
Experiment!!
Cheers
John Morrissey
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Zilik [mailto:zilik(at)direcpc.com]
Subject: RV-List: LED Warning Lamps
Disclaimer - I have searched the archives
I plan on using some small LED's as and enunciator panel for such things
as low fuel, starter engaged, low volt, etc. I bought some neat little
led's from mouser and the other night I wanted to see how bright they
were. Well, I'm here to tell ya their real bright for a nanosecond when
12 volts is applied. It seems pretty obvious I need a simple power
supply or something inline with them to lower the voltage. Any of you
electronic geniuses have an easy fix???? Vondane???
Gary Zilik
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New anti-corrosion policy from Van's? |
fL34M34r3-K9348hJNDU
JSDMNF
I couldn't agree more !
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
John, Gary, Scott & Don......Thanks for all the input both on and off the
list concerning Plenum VS. Plans Approach. Your time and input is much
appreciated.
DO
NOT ARCHIVE Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
Subject: RV-List: Engine Plenum
>
> List, Getting ready to fabricate the engine baffles on my RV6-A with an
0-360A1A and was wondering if anybody who has went the route of a sealed
Aluminum Plenum can give any feedback?
> 1) Would you do it again?
> 2) Notice better cooling?
> 3) Increased speed?
> Don Eaves had some great pictures on the List Photo Share but
very little info in the archives.
>
Tom in Ohio
>
Cowling and paint
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | LED Warning Lamps |
Go to radio shack, buy the $1.99 panel mount LED's (Green, Red, Amber) that
take a 1/4" hole.
Get the ones that already have the resistor in line which will handle 12
volts directly.
I have one of these on my fuel pump toggle, so I have a small reminder and
don't forget it's on!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
http://www.steinair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Gary Zilik
Subject: RV-List: LED Warning Lamps
Disclaimer - I have searched the archives
I plan on using some small LED's as and enunciator panel for such things
as low fuel, starter engaged, low volt, etc. I bought some neat little
led's from mouser and the other night I wanted to see how bright they
were. Well, I'm here to tell ya their real bright for a nanosecond when
12 volts is applied. It seems pretty obvious I need a simple power
supply or something inline with them to lower the voltage. Any of you
electronic geniuses have an easy fix???? Vondane???
Gary Zilik
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Isler" <jlisler(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Traveling to Alabama |
Alan,
If you want to see something impressive, cruise up to Troy, Alabama (KTOI)
and drop in on the Wiley Sanders (of Wiley Sanders Truck Lines fame)
hangers. It's less than 30 miles north of where you will be and is one of
the most impressive personal collections of aircraft you will see. Fellow
lister Craig Hiers and myself went there last Saturday to see what was new.
This guy has the following:
Two B-25's and one each of the following: P-51, T-28, L-19 Bird Dog, DC-3,
AD-1 Skyraider, Beech 18, T-6, Stearman Biplane, Gulfstream II, Cessna
Citation, S2 tracker, and the second T-2 Buckeye jet trainer in civilian
hands. The T-2 was fresh out of rebuild and was absolutely beautiful in
gleaming white with orange trim.
There was also a Harmon Rocket and another Gulfstream II in the hangers that
belonged to one of Sanders partners. I probably left something off the list.
We were made welcome and were allowed free access to all the aircraft.
It humbles me to see how the poor folks live........
Jerry Isler
RV4 N455J
Donalsonville, GA
>
> I'm planning a trip to Enterprise Alabama to visit my brother-in-law over
Thanksgiving. I plan on heading down on Saturday and staying about a week
depending on weather. Anyone got any advice on leaving a my -8 at the
enterprise airport, or an empty hanger there? I have not had a chance to
call the FBO but plan to do that tomorrow. Anyone have any must see sight
while I'm in LA (lower Alabama)
>
> Thanks
> Alan Kritzman
> RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: LED Warning Lamps |
Bill
In the end it depends on the voltage drop for your LED and the current
through the LED. Not all LED are created equal so you will need those
parameters, Radio Shack tends to print this info right on the back of
the package.
So, if a LED runs on 1.7 volts at 20 millAmp the resistor would be:
(bus voltage - LED voltage ) divided by LED current, rounded to the
nearest commercial resistor value.
Aerolectrics website has a very good primer on LED's and how to
calculate these values. of course you could gang several LED's in series
to get close to the bus volatge in your airplane.
try http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/leds3.pdf
Gert
Gary Zilik wrote:
>
> Disclaimer - I have searched the archives
>
> I plan on using some small LED's as and enunciator panel for such things
> as low fuel, starter engaged, low volt, etc. I bought some neat little
> led's from mouser and the other night I wanted to see how bright they
> were. Well, I'm here to tell ya their real bright for a nanosecond when
> 12 volts is applied. It seems pretty obvious I need a simple power
> supply or something inline with them to lower the voltage. Any of you
> electronic geniuses have an easy fix???? Vondane???
>
> Gary Zilik
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie & Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | RV-7 E-607PP, E-606PP, & elevator center pivot assembly |
Questions for you -7 & -8 fully prepunched tail builders:
1. Anyone else have an E-607PP trim tab spar that tapers faster than the
E-606PP trim spar in the elevator? The forward, outboard corner of my
tab is thinner by about 1/8" than the elevator where they 'meet'.
2. The instructions on DWG 5 for assembling the elevator horn weldments
to the hor. stab. bearing say that you should use no more than 3
AN960-416's on each side of the bearing. All the parts of my tail assy
have fit with the prepunched holes lining up properly, but I need at
least 4 AN960-416's & an AN960-416L on one side & at least an additional
AN960-416L on the other side to avoid stressing the other hinge
brackets. Did anyone else go with the obvious solution of more washers &
a longer bolt?
Tip for those like me without a convenient lathe to make the bearing
drill bushing (for drilling the horn weldments): I found a nylon
standoff at the hardware store that was 1/4" outside & #4 screw size
inside. I used whatever size drill from my drill index that was a snug
fit in the standoff.
Thanks,
Charlie
(hoping my wing skins haven't turned to powder sitting in the boxes over
the last 5 months)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil for engine start |
The "aged" oil doesn't bother me since it hasn't been contaminated by
combustion. The Carb on the other hand should be checked for the proper
float. There are 4 versions of the float. The old ADed metal, the first
plastic float which will sink after being in fuel a while, an improved metal
float and finally a second generation plastic. There should be some markings
on the carb if indicating the float inside. Also the 2 piece venturi needs
to be checked for looseness. If it isn't loose don't what every you do
change to the one piece venturi. If it is loose you have to make the change
which isn't always the best. You also should check with a mirror to see if
the venturi has heat damage or is melted from a back fire.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: <Fiveonepw(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil for engine start
>
>
> Thanks for the reply- Notes "imbedded" below....
>
> > Well, let me ask why not change the oil and filter instead. Oil is
> > cheap. Filters are cheap. Your engine is not. Cheap insurance.
> >
> Agreed- just curious if the oil could actually "age" lying dormant in the
> engine four years- has had dessicant plugs in entire time and cover plates
bolted
> to exhaust & carb openings- breather & all oil ports plugged... I mean,
if
> there is nothing "wrong" with the oil, why toss it out?
>
> > > It has about 850TT on it, is an E3D (150hp) and has been rotated
> > regularly since
> > >purchased.
> > >
> > This was not really a good thing. Our engines hold all their oil in the
> > sump, and you cannot turn it over fast enough for the oil pump to do any
> > good. The oil will drain off everything, leaving a very thin film of
> > oil in the bottom of the cylinder walls. When you turn the crank, the
> > rings scrape that thin film off and you have metal to metal contact.
> > The oil will not stay there.
> >
> Clarification- Until bolting to the mount, it was on an engine stand and
> rotated, or flipped over to submerge the cam & coat the cylinders every
couple of
> months. I also spun it with the starter (plugs out) about once a year
until a
> gauge connected to it showed pressure, about 30-35 psi IIRC.
>
> > >Also, I have no idea how long since the Marvel carb that came with the
> > engine
> > >has been operated. Is there any particular risk with just bolting it
up
> > and
> > >seeing if it is OK or is an overhaul normally recommended?
> > >
> > This isn't easy to answer, but I'll try. If the carb does NOT have a
> > throttle pump, I would fill it with fuel and operte the mixture control
> > to make sure it's fee and just bolt it on and go with no worries. If
> > there is a throttle pump, I'd fill it with fuel, operate the mixture
> > control, and work the throttle pump to see if it'll spray fuel down the
> > throat. If it's wimpy ..... overhaul it. If all seems to work well,
> > just bolt it on and go with no worries.
> >
>
> It has the pump- basically just checking that the pump seal is pliable
enough
> not to leak?
>
> > Either way, the engine will run well or it won't, and if it won't then
> > there's always the overhauler. You'll run the engine a fair amount of
> > time before you're ready to fly so the overhauler time won't set you
back.
> >
> Time's not the problem- it's the spare change to the overhauler that would
be
> a setback- remember it's a USED engine!! 8-)
>
> Thanks again-
> Mark
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
At least on the Cessna and my 48 Bellanca, the loop has a dump so there is
always cooling air going thru the muff. When you nee heat, the air stream
is diverted into the cabin. The air stream itself is never shut off, just
rerouted. Even the carb heat is done this way in many airplanes.
Cy Galley - Bellanca Champion Club
Newsletter Editor & EAA TC
www.bellanca-championclub.com
Actively supporting Aeroncas every day
Quarterly newsletters on time
Reasonable document reprints
----- Original Message -----
From: "linn walters" <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Heat Muff
>
> smoothweasel(at)juno.com wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >Good Day to everyone!!! Today a follow RV builder was here to look at
> >my project and was concerned that I did NOT have provisions to vent my
> >heat muff when the heater is not in use. He seemed to think the exhaust
> >needed some kind of cooling. Is there anyone out there flying that
> >does not have these provisions? Thanx
> >
> >Joel "Weasel" Graber
> >RV-4 trying to finish
> >Brooksville MS
> >
> Take a look at a certified aircraft if you get the chance. My
> experience says the cabin/windshield heat is a closed system with a
> control to open the valve to the cockpit. No other vent if the heat is
> not in use.
> Linn
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Eaves" <doneaves(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: marvel carb fuel line attach question |
Jerry go to this link:
http://home.kc.rr.com/pauljana/fwfhoses.gif
Looks like an AN822-6D
Don
Don Eaves
doneaves(at)midsouth.rr.com
RV 6 Flying 200 + Hrs.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV-List: marvel carb fuel line attach question
>
> I am attaching the fuel line to the marvel carb on my 0-320. I need the
fitting that screws into the carb for attaching the fuel line.
>
> Is that a special fitting or just a 1/8NPT or a flare fitting where it
screws into the carb?
>
> Thanks,
> Jerry Calvert
> Edmond Ok RV6
> N296JC res
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Evaluation of ICOM IC-A200 Transceiver |
>
>Echo Len's sentiments on the A200. After 3 years or so, the rubber
>sleeves on the tuning and volume knobs dry-rotted and fell off, but I can
>still turn them fine with my fingers on the bare metal. I've been too
>lazy to contact ICOM for replacement part$.
Me too. I still have one of the rubber sleeves but guess I need to ask for
two. Heat also warped the top of the plastic faceplate. It is, however, a
nice low cost radio.
hal kempthorne
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | LED Warning Lamps |
>
>All you need is a resistor to limit the current into the LED. Most leds
>require around 20 ma, so for 12 Volts at 20 ma try a 720 ohm resistor
>for about 16ma of current (E=IR or Volts = Current in Amps X Resistance
>in ohms)
For sure all you need is a resistor, mine has been working for over 150
hours now.
What we need to limit is the voltage across the LED I think. More than
about 5V blow them away. Since the LED draws about 20ma as you say, and
this value is at 5V then the resistance of the LED is:
E=IR 5 = 0.020 * R therefore R = 5 / 0.020 or 250 ohms
the completed circuit, in order to drop to 5V should be
E=IR 12 = 0.020 * (250 + R) therefore R = 350 --- I think I
used a 470 ohms but maybe I guessed! Maybe the resistor is in parallel.
This email is about as useless as some of the dull witted humor we see on
the rvlist. Maybe we need electric bob?
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: tip-up rear window fit |
This was extremely frustrating. I thought everything would be very nice
after the "Big Cut." Man was I wrong.
I squared up the canopy part to my line on the roll bar by cutting,
sanding. When satisfied with that I did the same to the rear window portion.
Finally, when it was all close I taped everything down and ran the cutting
disc between the two pieces for an exact spacing. Worked great but go slow.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: tip-up rear window fit
>
> I have the rear window on my RV-6A tip-up close to its final size, but not
yet drilled to the F-674 skin or the roll bar. When I clamp it in place I
notice that it lays flat along the top of the roll bar, but along the sides
of the roll bar, there is about 1/16" gap between the forward edge of the
plexi and the surface of the roll bar. There the plexi contacts the roll bar
only at its aft edge.
>
> When you think of the geometry of the situation, it seems to me that this
is inescapable. The roll bar is built square, that is, the part that the
plexi lays on is perpendicular to the bar's forward and aft faces. But the
plexi tapers towards the back the same way the fuselage does. Since the roll
bar is slanted back, its top edge is tilted at an angle that matches the
angle of the plexi, but the tilt does almost nothing to change the angle
that the sides make to the plexi.
>
> I never noticed noticed this gap on other planes before, but it seems like
it's designed in. I guess one solution would be to cut the forward edge of
the window back further. Right now it is trimmed to put its forward edge
3/8" back from the forward face of the roll bar - as the plan require.
>
> Have other people seen the same effect? How have you dealt with it?
>
> --
> Tom Sargent
> RV-6A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "GMC" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca> |
I am going to use three or four of the little "eyeball"
lights from VANS for interior and panel lighting and I was wondering if
people that have used these before have any recommendations on mounting
locations. It is an RV6 slider. (Close to finished)
Thanks,
Dick Dial
Hi Dick
Yes I like the eyeball lights, used three. Two on left side for flight
instruments, one on right side with Vans internally lighted engine
instruments. Left and right sides have separate rheostats.
I located lights on forward side at base of roll bar on inside of the
reinforcement plate.
Made up a matching light mount plate and drilled/threaded flange of
reinforcement (front angle) for tiny screws to hold light mounting plate.
With two lights close to flight instruments you can aim each at different
sections of panel and get good panel coverage, have no other RV to compare
it to but I would think that if the lights were further aft or mounted lower
they would light up too much area and cause distracting reflections. My
instrument panel is black semi gloss and reflections are very minimal. IMHO
it looks good and panel lighting is equivalent to or better than many
certified aircraft.
Would I do it that way again? The right side light has packed it in
(wiring?) and will be repaired/replaced this weekend during annual
inspection, so next time I will put two lights on right side for
redundancy - same location.
6A slider - 220 hrs, about 6 at night - down for annual.
George McNutt
Langley B.C
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
OhioValleyRVators(at)yahoogroups.com
| Subject: | AeroElectric Connection Seminar |
Anyone wanting to attend a AeroElectric Connection Wiring Seminar near
Nashville,TN please goto:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/seminars/Nashville.html and register. The
date has not been set yet. I'm guessing because not enough people have
signed up.
If your getting close to wiring your plane and have not heard of the
AeroElectric Connection Wiring Seminar then go here and read all about
it: http://www.aeroelectric.com/seminars/seminars.html
I have nothing to do with this seminar, I'm just wanting a date to be
set so I can attend!
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | First flight decisons |
In addition to all that has been said on this subject one of the most important
items is the engine.
If one is starting with a new or overhauled engine it is critical that ground running
be kept to an absolute minimum. For me this would be a start-up and checking
for any snags, clearing the snags if any then out to the runway and gone.
The reason for this is the engine needs to be run at power settings high enough
to seat the rings like 75% in cruise until the oil consumption stabilizes.
Taxiing and running up and down the runway will glaze the cylinders and you will
have a oil burner with the only cure being to pull the cylinders and deglaze
and new rings.
This mean that the first flight should be done by someone that is current on the
RV and needs no practicing on the ground.
Not trying to discourage anyone from doing the first flight but you have to be
honest with yourself and ask if your prepared to go under these conditions.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | New Anti-Corrosion Policy from Van's |
Over the years I have followed the posts regarding the problems some have had with
removing the clear plastic protection from the skins in the kits. The recent
posts regarding corrosion problems between the plastic and the metal is the
first I had heard about it.
I will pass along my experience in this area. I received my fuselage kit for the
6A in January/97 and during the building process removed the plastic on the
rivet lines only. Being aware of the possibility of the plastic setting up with
time I would occasionally check to see if it was getting hard to remove. There
was no evidence of this so left it on until it was ready to paint (Sept/03),
it came off with no trouble, no tearing or excessive pulling required. The only
thing I noticed was that if it was pulled back parallel to the skin there
was a tendency for it to leave a trace of the adhesive on the skins. By pulling
it 90 degrees to the metal it came of clean.
Corrosion between the plastic and the skin was not thought of at this time. There
wasn't a trace of corrosion, all the skins looked the same as the day they
came from Van's. The fuselage kit was stored and build in my shop which is heated
when required and we are in a area of low humidity. The plastic was removed
with the shop temperature at 24C (75F).
Van's says the new blue vinyl strengthens with time and should be removed if parts
are to be stored for longer than a few weeks.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-7 E-607PP, E-606PP, & elevator center pivot assembly |
Well, I have a 9A but I had the same situation. I had to get a longer
bolt. If I remember correctly when I asked Van's about it they said
extra washers were okay if necessary.
Dick Tasker, 90573
Fuselage
Charlie & Tupper England wrote:
>
>Questions for you -7 & -8 fully prepunched tail builders:
>
>1. Anyone else have an E-607PP trim tab spar that tapers faster than the
>E-606PP trim spar in the elevator? The forward, outboard corner of my
>tab is thinner by about 1/8" than the elevator where they 'meet'.
>
>2. The instructions on DWG 5 for assembling the elevator horn weldments
>to the hor. stab. bearing say that you should use no more than 3
>AN960-416's on each side of the bearing. All the parts of my tail assy
>have fit with the prepunched holes lining up properly, but I need at
>least 4 AN960-416's & an AN960-416L on one side & at least an additional
>AN960-416L on the other side to avoid stressing the other hinge
>brackets. Did anyone else go with the obvious solution of more washers &
>a longer bolt?
>
>Tip for those like me without a convenient lathe to make the bearing
>drill bushing (for drilling the horn weldments): I found a nylon
>standoff at the hardware store that was 1/4" outside & #4 screw size
>inside. I used whatever size drill from my drill index that was a snug
>fit in the standoff.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Charlie
>(hoping my wing skins haven't turned to powder sitting in the boxes over
>the last 5 months)
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: LED Warning Lamps |
Actually the previous answer was more correct. Depending in the LED
they run with a voltage of 1.6V (red) to more than 3V (green, white)
across it. Most garden variety LEDs like working with 20mA of current.
So, if we start with 14V (with the engine running) and are using a red
LED, that gives us 12.4V to drop across a resistor so the LED doesn't
burn up. 12.4V / 0.02 A = 620 ohms (which is conveniently a standard
value). If you don't want the resistor to burn up you better get one
with a 1/2 W power capability since the power across the resistor is
12.4V * 0.02A = 0.248W. If you use a standard 1/4 W resistor, it will
be running quite hot. If the LED is used as a warning light (off most
of the time) then the 1/4W resistor is probably okay. If the LED is on
most or a significant amount of the time, then the 1/2 W is necessary.
If you have any additional puzzlement, just email me.
Dick Tasker, 90573
Fuselage
kempthornes wrote:
>
>
>
>>
>>All you need is a resistor to limit the current into the LED. Most leds
>>require around 20 ma, so for 12 Volts at 20 ma try a 720 ohm resistor
>>for about 16ma of current (E=IR or Volts = Current in Amps X Resistance
>>in ohms)
>>
>>
>
>For sure all you need is a resistor, mine has been working for over 150
>hours now.
>
>What we need to limit is the voltage across the LED I think. More than
>about 5V blow them away. Since the LED draws about 20ma as you say, and
>this value is at 5V then the resistance of the LED is:
>
>E=IR 5 = 0.020 * R therefore R = 5 / 0.020 or 250 ohms
>
>the completed circuit, in order to drop to 5V should be
>
>E=IR 12 = 0.020 * (250 + R) therefore R = 350 --- I think I
>used a 470 ohms but maybe I guessed! Maybe the resistor is in parallel.
>
>This email is about as useless as some of the dull witted humor we see on
>the rvlist. Maybe we need electric bob?
>
>K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
>RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
>PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
| Subject: | Evaluation of ICOM IC-A200 Transceiver |
Does this mean that you have given up on the SL40?
If so, why? It appears that they plan to keep it around for a while and it
is a great radio. UPSAT/GARMIN-AT have made clear that the GX series is
toast but as far as I can tell the SL40/30 is in good graces. Of course, I
MAY BE WRONG.
I do not have direct experience with the ICOM. Looked at it but concluded
that the SL40 was better ... this was some time ago.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Joe & Jan
> Connell
> Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2003 11:37 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Evaluation of ICOM IC-A200 Transceiver
>
>
> Gentlemen (and ladies too),
>
> I had decided to install a UPS SL40 in my VFR RV-9A until
> the recent Garmin buyout. I'm now contemplating an ICOM
> IC-A200 instead. In reviewing the archives, I'm found only 4
> postings.
>
> Do any of you have experience and comments about this radio?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Joe Connell RV-9A N95JJ (finishing kit stage)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New anti-corrosion policy from Van's? |
Kevin-
Your time frame is similar to mine (storing and building). What is your
serial number (builder number)?
Also, when did you order and receive your wing kit? My tail and wing kit
were over a year apart. The tail is done but I've yet to pull any plastic
from the wing parts other than the rear spars. There have been a few parts
where there were some spots under the plastic.
Mike McGee
90221
At 12:02 2003-11-18, you wrote:
>
>Just got started on my wing kit and found that I will have to buy a
>complete set of wing skins before I get started due to corrosion.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roberto Giusti" <roby(at)mail.com> |
| Subject: | F-821 Skin Fitting problem |
Listers,
I am having a hard time installing the F-821 top front skin on my RV8 QB.
If I align the top skin with the firewall the side edges don't end up
parallel to the side skins (F-820).
To get the sides parallel, the top skin needs to sit kind of crooked on the
firewall (the front right corner about 1/8" forward and the front left
corner 1/8" back).
It will be difficult to rivet it to the firewall flange like this and it
might create problems later when mounting the cowl (and it certainly doesn't
look good!).
Did anyone else come across this problem?
Thanks,
Roberto Giusti
RV-8 QB Fuselage
roby(at)mail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net> |
JR mine are located, one on each side, on the slider rail support, just
forward of the shoulder location. Good news is they light the panel very
well. Bad news is that before my recent panel overhaul, I had 2 of 5
instruments lit from the instrument. Lit instruments are much easier to
read than the flood lights. This looks and feels way better than the
eyeball lights. But the eyeballs work just fine. Either get lit
instruments or don't. But if you get some that are, and some that
aren't, you will clearly see the difference and wish you had all your
instruments lit internally.
IT annoyed me for a long time.
You can see exact locations of my eyeball lights here:
http://www.mstewart.net/michael/rv/index.htm
Select Finishing/interior.
Mike
6A slider
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of J. R. Dial
Subject: RV-List: Cockpit Lights
I am going to use three or four of the little "eyeball"
lights from VANS for interior and panel lighting and I was wondering if
people that have used these before have any recommendations on mounting
locations. It is an RV6 slider. (Close to finished)
Thanks,
Dick Dial
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Mcmahon <rv6(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cockpit Lights |
Dick
Hope this helps
John (RV6 near paint)
GMC wrote:
>
>
> I am going to use three or four of the little "eyeball"
>lights from VANS for interior and panel lighting and I was wondering if
>people that have used these before have any recommendations on mounting
>locations. It is an RV6 slider. (Close to finished)
> Thanks,
> Dick Dial
>
>
>Hi Dick
>
>Yes I like the eyeball lights, used three. Two on left side for flight
>instruments, one on right side with Vans internally lighted engine
>instruments. Left and right sides have separate rheostats.
>
>I located lights on forward side at base of roll bar on inside of the
>reinforcement plate.
>Made up a matching light mount plate and drilled/threaded flange of
>reinforcement (front angle) for tiny screws to hold light mounting plate.
>
>With two lights close to flight instruments you can aim each at different
>sections of panel and get good panel coverage, have no other RV to compare
>it to but I would think that if the lights were further aft or mounted lower
>they would light up too much area and cause distracting reflections. My
>instrument panel is black semi gloss and reflections are very minimal. IMHO
>it looks good and panel lighting is equivalent to or better than many
>certified aircraft.
>
>Would I do it that way again? The right side light has packed it in
>(wiring?) and will be repaired/replaced this weekend during annual
>inspection, so next time I will put two lights on right side for
>redundancy - same location.
>
> 6A slider - 220 hrs, about 6 at night - down for annual.
>
>George McNutt
>Langley B.C
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil N" <pnewlon(at)toosan.com> |
| Subject: | Cleated rivets - a record number?! |
I wonder what the record is for cleated rivets in a single part? Heh,
heh.....
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cockpit Lights |
Question for those who have used the eyeball lights...how well do you think
they would work as map lights instead of instrument flood lights? Are they
bright enough for this purpose do you think?
Thanks.
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 QB (Building)
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Cockpit Lights
>
> JR mine are located, one on each side, on the slider rail support, just
> forward of the shoulder location. Good news is they light the panel very
> well. Bad news is that before my recent panel overhaul, I had 2 of 5
> instruments lit from the instrument. Lit instruments are much easier to
> read than the flood lights. This looks and feels way better than the
> eyeball lights. But the eyeballs work just fine. Either get lit
> instruments or don't. But if you get some that are, and some that
> aren't, you will clearly see the difference and wish you had all your
> instruments lit internally.
>
> IT annoyed me for a long time.
>
> You can see exact locations of my eyeball lights here:
> http://www.mstewart.net/michael/rv/index.htm
> Select Finishing/interior.
> Mike
> 6A slider
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of J. R. Dial
> To: RV-List
> Subject: RV-List: Cockpit Lights
>
>
> I am going to use three or four of the little "eyeball"
> lights from VANS for interior and panel lighting and I was wondering if
> people that have used these before have any recommendations on mounting
> locations. It is an RV6 slider. (Close to finished)
> Thanks,
> Dick Dial
>
>
> > =
> =
> =
> =
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Cup holders for RV-6(A) |
There is a brief flurry on Toyota cupholders in the archives back in '97.
Anyone got any pictures of these things so I can see how bad I want one of these?
Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | New anti-corrosion policy from Van's? |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Not sure why my first post didn't work. I was trying to relate the
specifics of the RV-10 manual reference for the plastic removal. It
located in paragraph 5M and simply says that the vinyl should be removed
within a few weeks because the adhesive strengthens with time.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: John [mailto:n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: New anti-corrosion policy from Van's?
fL34M34r3-K9348hJNDU
JSDMNF
I couldn't agree more !
=
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: NEW PROJECT? |
It's a single place moto-glider I believe.
Bryon Crook
RV-9A Emp.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Behrent <kbehrent(at)cascadiasoftware.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New anti-corrosion policy from Van's? |
Mike,
My serial # is 90126. I received my wing kit several weeks after my emp. I
bought my kit when only the emp was available, but was early enough to get the
wings as soon as they started shipping. My entire wing kit did not come all at
once. If I recall, it took several seeks for all the bits and pieces to arrive.
I would check those spots very closely. Some of my skins had what appeared to be
little spots, hardly visible through the plastic, but when a scotch brite pad and
a little alumiprep was applied, it not only was pitted, but in some cases a layer
was removed and you can see the edges. Note, this was all done under the watchful
eye of a FAA inspecter. This really raised his eyebrow!
Michael McGee wrote:
>
> Kevin-
> Your time frame is similar to mine (storing and building). What is your
> serial number (builder number)?
>
> Also, when did you order and receive your wing kit? My tail and wing kit
> were over a year apart. The tail is done but I've yet to pull any plastic
> from the wing parts other than the rear spars. There have been a few parts
> where there were some spots under the plastic.
>
> Mike McGee
> 90221
>
> At 12:02 2003-11-18, you wrote:
> >
> >Just got started on my wing kit and found that I will have to buy a
> >complete set of wing skins before I get started due to corrosion.
>
--
Kevin Behrent
Cascadia Software, Inc.
3600 Port of Tacoma Road
Suite 210
Tacoma, WA 98424
Wrk: (253) 896-4000 x104
Fax: (253) 896-3680
kbehrent(at)cascadiasoftware.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Walker" <ron(at)walker.net> |
| Subject: | Re: NEW PROJECT? |
Looks like they updated their web site already -- the RV11 is gonna be a
motoglider!
I was gonna suggest a 4 seat tandem aircraft muck like the relationship
between the 7 and 8 ;o)
Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Knicholas2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cup holders for RV-6(A) |
In a message dated 11/20/2003 6:32:30 AM Pacific Standard Time,
recapen(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< There is a brief flurry on Toyota cupholders >>
In my RV9A I built a center consule, similar to the one advertised on the
Vans Airforce web site. I then made a trip to my local marine store and bought
a
removable, gimbled cup holder that screwed right onto the consule. Very cool.
Kim Nicholas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: New anti-corrosion policy from Van's? |
Having read the various "my wing skins corroded under the plastic covering"
horror stories over the past few days, one has to suspect there is
dissimilar metal (or galvanic) action occurring to attack the alclad
surface. Situations such as described below could reasonably be caused if
flecks of foreign matter (such as iron filings or grit) became lodged in or
under the plastic sheeting and the usual dissimilar metals exchange of
electrons, etc. occurred to oxidize the surface.
The plastic covering seems more to be put in place to prevent physical
damage to the sheets (surface scratches from handling) rather than act as an
impermeable membrane to keep moisture away from the surface. A small
puncture cause by a piece of iron grit or similar would actually let
moisture enter under the plastic which would then hold it in place against
the alclad which would promote dissimilar metal effects. Parts that come
without the covering would stay generally drier and simple handling would
tend to remove any bits of foreign matter or shift them around on the
surface.
Introduction of foreign matter could occurred at the aluminums mill where
the plastic covering was applied or during later handling or processing of
the material. Unpacking wing skins and flopping them down on a workbench or
shop floor contaminated by metal filings would be one way to cause this.
Hopefully Vans has good house-keeping practices in place in their shop and
storage facilities as well to prevent this sort of thing occurring.
Looking at the problem from this standpoint, early removal of the plastic
coating when inventorying a kit might be the best course of action. I used
the soldering iron along the rivets lines technique myself and pulled the
bulk of the plastic just before scotchbriting and painting my -6A, a
complication I should probably have skipped. The plastic was on my wing
skins for about three years with no noticeable ill effects.
A close metallurgical analysis of some of the damaged sheets should be able
to determine the cause. Hopefully if Vans can get hold of some samples this
can be sorted out.
Jim Oke
RV-6A C-GKGZ
Winnipeg, MB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Behrent" <kbehrent(at)cascadiasoftware.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: New anti-corrosion policy from Van's?
>
> Mike,
>
> My serial # is 90126. I received my wing kit several weeks after my emp.
I
> bought my kit when only the emp was available, but was early enough to get
the
> wings as soon as they started shipping. My entire wing kit did not come
all at
> once. If I recall, it took several seeks for all the bits and pieces to
arrive.
>
> I would check those spots very closely. Some of my skins had what appeared
to be
> little spots, hardly visible through the plastic, but when a scotch brite
pad and
> a little alumiprep was applied, it not only was pitted, but in some cases
a layer
> was removed and you can see the edges. Note, this was all done under the
watchful
> eye of a FAA inspecter. This really raised his eyebrow!
>
> Michael McGee wrote:
>
> >
> > Kevin-
> > Your time frame is similar to mine (storing and building). What is your
> > serial number (builder number)?
> >
> > Also, when did you order and receive your wing kit? My tail and wing
kit
> > were over a year apart. The tail is done but I've yet to pull any
plastic
> > from the wing parts other than the rear spars. There have been a few
parts
> > where there were some spots under the plastic.
> >
> > Mike McGee
> > 90221
> >
> > At 12:02 2003-11-18, you wrote:
> > >
> > >Just got started on my wing kit and found that I will have to buy a
> > >complete set of wing skins before I get started due to corrosion.
> >
>
> --
> Kevin Behrent
> Cascadia Software, Inc.
> 3600 Port of Tacoma Road
> Suite 210
> Tacoma, WA 98424
> Wrk: (253) 896-4000 x104
> Fax: (253) 896-3680
> kbehrent(at)cascadiasoftware.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Brame <charleyb(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Air/Oil Separator location |
I plan to install an air/oil separator on my RV-6A firewall and drain
the separator into a small removable container. I want to put the
separator near the bottom of the firewall with enough space to put the
drain container below the separator. Does it matter where the separator
is located (high or low) with regard to the crankcase vent exit which is
high on the rear of the engine?
Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB
San Antonio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "McFarland, Randy" <Randy.McFarland(at)novellus.com> |
| Subject: | First flight decisons |
Does this caution apply to engines that are run in to some extent at the
factory?
Thx for the word of caution, I had not read that anywhere.
R
-----Original Message-----
From: Eustace Bowhay [mailto:ebowhay(at)jetstream.net]
Subject: RV-List: First flight decisons
In addition to all that has been said on this subject one of the most
important items is the engine.
If one is starting with a new or overhauled engine it is critical that
ground running be kept to an absolute minimum. For me this would be a
start-up and checking for any snags, clearing the snags if any then out to
the runway and gone.
The reason for this is the engine needs to be run at power settings high
enough to seat the rings like 75% in cruise until the oil consumption
stabilizes.
Taxiing and running up and down the runway will glaze the cylinders and you
will have a oil burner with the only cure being to pull the cylinders and
deglaze and new rings.
This mean that the first flight should be done by someone that is current on
the RV and needs no practicing on the ground.
Not trying to discourage anyone from doing the first flight but you have to
be honest with yourself and ask if your prepared to go under these
conditions.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 4130 parts showing rust through primer |
Seems that neither Home Depot and Lowes Hardware have a product called
Ospho. Where did you buy it Linn?
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
On Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "linn walters" <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: 4130 parts showing rust through primer
>
> Steven Eberhart wrote:
>
> >
> >THe plane is an RV-8 that was delivered before Van's switched to powder
> >coating the 4130 steel parts. We have had to clean up rust that was
> >starting to show through the elevator and rudder brackets. It was like
> >the primer was porous and didn't seal against moisture. The paint used
> >was RM DP-40. THere seems to be a distinct difference between the RM DP
> >primer and the PPG DP primer. I cleaned up the rust with a wire wheel
> >on the Dremel and primed with NAPA rattle can self etching primer and
> >then everything was primed with the same PPG DP-40LF that the entire
> >plane was primed with. Color coats were PPG Concept.
> >
> >Steve Eberhart
> >Finishing up the paint job on RV-8 N49KS and building RV-7A N14SE
> >
> Well, I think I got it right. Preparation. Here's what I do, and it
> seems to work in the FL humidity.
> 1. Buy some Ospho from your local hardware store.
> 2. Let the steel get a little surface rust. Ospho works best when there
> isn't shiny steel. No, I don't know why.
> 3. Brush on the Ospho. If you HAVE to spray it, do so in well
> ventilated area and wear a RESPIRATOR. Not a paper mask.
> 4. Let it dry over a day or so. It will look real ugly with rough
> black crap all over it. Lightly sand off the ugly black crap.
> 5. Repeat step 3.
> 6. If you get more ugly black crap, do step 4. If not prime with paint
> of your choice.
>
> Ospho has acid in it (phosphoric, I think .... read the label. Well,
> read it anyway. It also has a dissoved plastic in it that will coat and
> seal the steel. the plastic is not durable so you must prime.
>
> Now, for what Steve's problem was. He's right. Primer is porous. It
> serves as a base to help make paint stick better. Paint doesn't stick
> to bare metal very well, and primer doesn't keep the moisture out.
> Together, however, they're a real good team. Steve didn't get the paint
> on soon enough. Been there, done that, and stripped it all off to start
> over. If you just try and kill the rust and paint over it though, it
> will come back later on.
>
> No, I'm not a paint expert, and don't play one on TV, but I've painted
> enough to know what has worked for me in the past. Ospho will also work
> on aluminum. I have test pieces 20 years old with good paint still on it.
>
> I also caution against mixing types of primer and paint. If you're
> going to use urethane paint, use urethane primer. Same with acrylic and
> the other flavors.
>
> Hope this helps!
> Linn Walters
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Coers, John" <John.Coers(at)fkilogistex.com> |
| Subject: | Anti corrosion policy from Vans |
Perhaps I'm losing it, but I can't get past the issue of corrosion under the
plastic on new parts. For about three months now, I have had 3 pieces of
scrap laying in the bed of my pickup truck in an attempt to win an argument
with Jim Sears. I coated one piece of scrap with Zinc Chromate, another
piece with Napa Zincrom and the third piece was left bare. Not only have I
not found any corrosion on the coated pieces, but the bare piece looks just
fine as well. I don't understand how aluminum covered with the vinyl from
Vans could start corroding while sitting on a shelf awaiting use. Perhaps if
the shelf it was sitting on was made of salt and the air was 90% saturated
then perhaps I could see it. But, I'm having trouble seeing covered aluminum
corroding when you can go to your local airport and see bare aluminum
aircraft sitting there doing just fine. The only way I can see corrosion on
new plastic covered skins would be for the skins to be covered in plastic
while wet, even then the alclad should have protected them. My biggest
concern right now is that I'm about to receive my wing kit and I'm trying to
figure out what I should do for storage. Plastic - on or off?
John Coers
90780
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
| Subject: | metal inner cooling plenum |
1) Would you do it again?
Yes
2) Notice better cooling?
Not so much but I never ran without it. I can now run the engine without
cowl, I have no upwards load on the cowl system and the cowl is much easier
to get on and off as my inlet gap seals do not overlap, they edge butt to
adaptors I made attached to the plenum. The key is to not lose volume, ie
get the lid close to the inside of the top cowl as this reservoir needs to
be as big as possible.
3) Increased speed?
Won't effect speed unless you change the inlets
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Keep building WAS: New Anti-Corrosion Policy from Van's |
>
>I decided to devote my time to building the airplane................
Best advice to first time builders is to concentrate on building the
airplane. Craftsmanship, certainly but don't get so distracted that you
don't ever have a first flight!
Get to work!
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn S. Gordon" <ggordon(at)psiatms.com> |
| Subject: | Hotel available for Kittyhawk 2003 Centennial Celebrations. |
Please contact me if you would like more information on the hotel room I
have available.
-Glenn Gordon
ggordon(at)psiatms.com
847-955-0095
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 4130 parts showing rust through primer |
> > Paint doesn't stick
> > to bare metal very well
unless you spill some on the metal!
I sprayed some Cessna orange paint on a spot (bare aluminum) on my RV6a and
had a hell of a time getting it back off. It even resisted paint remover.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil N" <pnewlon(at)toosan.com> |
| Subject: | 4130 parts showing rust through primer |
The DoitBest hardware store carries it:
http://doitbest.com/shop/dept.asp?paging_code=4&dept_id=3622
More data at:
http://www.ospho.com/
Here's the description from their website.
OSPHO Rust Primer (Skybryte)
A metal treatment or primer that converts rust to an inert, hard
substance that can be painted. Also can be used on new or clean metal to
make subsequent paint coatings more effective in controlling rust.
Recommended for use under oil-base primers and paints. Test a small area
before using under epoxy or latex paints. Equally effective for exterior
and interior work. Covers approximately 600 sq. ft. per gallon and
normally requires overnight drying before topcoating. Contains
phosphoric acid. Brushes and spray equipment can be cleaned with water.
Avoid spreading OSPHO on adjacent areas such as painted surfaces,
concrete, masonry, and stonework. If splashing occurs, flush immediately
with water. Available in quart or gallon.
Phil
> Seems that neither Home Depot and Lowes Hardware have a
> product called Ospho. Where did you buy it Linn?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gene Gottschalk <geneg(at)sled.gsfc.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: Anti corrosion policy from Vans |
I've seen several pieces corrode sitting on the shelf waiting for me to get
to 'em. Don't know why, just that they did. After that I stripped all the
plastic off. Haven't seen it since.
Gene Gottschalk
RV-6A N700RV
>
>Perhaps I'm losing it, but I can't get past the issue of corrosion under the
>plastic on new parts. For about three months now, I have had 3 pieces of
>scrap laying in the bed of my pickup truck in an attempt to win an argument
>with Jim Sears. I coated one piece of scrap with Zinc Chromate, another
>piece with Napa Zincrom and the third piece was left bare. Not only have I
>not found any corrosion on the coated pieces, but the bare piece looks just
>fine as well. I don't understand how aluminum covered with the vinyl from
>Vans could start corroding while sitting on a shelf awaiting use. Perhaps if
>the shelf it was sitting on was made of salt and the air was 90% saturated
>then perhaps I could see it. But, I'm having trouble seeing covered aluminum
>corroding when you can go to your local airport and see bare aluminum
>aircraft sitting there doing just fine. The only way I can see corrosion on
>new plastic covered skins would be for the skins to be covered in plastic
>while wet, even then the alclad should have protected them. My biggest
>concern right now is that I'm about to receive my wing kit and I'm trying to
>figure out what I should do for storage. Plastic - on or off?
>
>John Coers
>90780
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie & Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-7 E-607PP, E-606PP, & elevator center pivot assembly |
Dana Overall wrote:
>
>
>
>>From: Charlie & Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
>>Questions for you -7 & -8 fully prepunched tail builders:
>>
>>1. Anyone else have an E-607PP trim tab spar that tapers faster than the
>>E-606PP trim spar in the elevator? The forward, outboard corner of my
>>tab is thinner by about 1/8" than the elevator where they 'meet'.
>>
>>
>>
>
>I certainly did not have that issue you envision. I'm betting the
>difference lies in the fact those two spars do not touch one another as the
>rivet lines in final assembly are actually 3/4" apart with one facing aft
>and one facing forward.
>
snipped
Dana Overall
Understand that the spars aren't the same height. But in my case, the
trim tab thickness on the outboard end (~midpoint of the elevator),
where it is adjacent to the elevator, is tapered at a different rate
from trailing edge to the spar. My elevator is about 1/8" thicker than
the trim tab at that distance from the trailing edge.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | New Anti-Corrosion Policy from Van's |
>
> What worked for me was to use a small light soldering iron with a round
> point. I polished the tip then marked the plastic using a metal straight
> edge as a guide. The secret seems to be in the speed you move the iron
along
> the plastic, I found that you don't want to melt through to the metal just
> score the plastic.I run two lines about an inch apart, sometimes the score
> marks are not quite deep enough and the plastic will start to tear, in
this
> case just go back with the iron an lightly score again. This has worked
well
> for me, no marks on the metal.
>
> I like to leave the plastic on to prevent scratches during the long
building
> process.
>
> Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay,B.C.
That's exactly what I did! I used my temperature controlled soldering
station with the round tip. I practiced on the scrap pieces that were packed
in the kit to get the right technique. and it worked fine,-no scratches. My
skins had the white plastic that "sticks like s**t to a blanket" and
required much "elbow grease" to remove the adhesive residue after getting
the stuff off. One hell-of-a-job!
Cheers!!----Henry Hore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 4130 parts showing rust through primer |
When I owned a boat I used it on stainless steel parts like hand rails and
bought the stuff at West Marine. Little goes a long way.
>From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: 4130 parts showing rust through primer
>Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 11:53:10 -0500
>
>
>Seems that neither Home Depot and Lowes Hardware have a product called
>Ospho. Where did you buy it Linn?
>
>Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
>On Finish Kit
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "linn walters" <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com>
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: 4130 parts showing rust through primer
>
>
> >
> > Steven Eberhart wrote:
> >
> > >
> > >THe plane is an RV-8 that was delivered before Van's switched to powder
> > >coating the 4130 steel parts. We have had to clean up rust that was
> > >starting to show through the elevator and rudder brackets. It was like
> > >the primer was porous and didn't seal against moisture. The paint used
> > >was RM DP-40. THere seems to be a distinct difference between the RM
>DP
> > >primer and the PPG DP primer. I cleaned up the rust with a wire wheel
> > >on the Dremel and primed with NAPA rattle can self etching primer and
> > >then everything was primed with the same PPG DP-40LF that the entire
> > >plane was primed with. Color coats were PPG Concept.
> > >
> > >Steve Eberhart
> > >Finishing up the paint job on RV-8 N49KS and building RV-7A N14SE
> > >
> > Well, I think I got it right. Preparation. Here's what I do, and it
> > seems to work in the FL humidity.
> > 1. Buy some Ospho from your local hardware store.
> > 2. Let the steel get a little surface rust. Ospho works best when there
> > isn't shiny steel. No, I don't know why.
> > 3. Brush on the Ospho. If you HAVE to spray it, do so in well
> > ventilated area and wear a RESPIRATOR. Not a paper mask.
> > 4. Let it dry over a day or so. It will look real ugly with rough
> > black crap all over it. Lightly sand off the ugly black crap.
> > 5. Repeat step 3.
> > 6. If you get more ugly black crap, do step 4. If not prime with paint
> > of your choice.
> >
> > Ospho has acid in it (phosphoric, I think .... read the label. Well,
> > read it anyway. It also has a dissoved plastic in it that will coat and
> > seal the steel. the plastic is not durable so you must prime.
> >
> > Now, for what Steve's problem was. He's right. Primer is porous. It
> > serves as a base to help make paint stick better. Paint doesn't stick
> > to bare metal very well, and primer doesn't keep the moisture out.
> > Together, however, they're a real good team. Steve didn't get the paint
> > on soon enough. Been there, done that, and stripped it all off to start
> > over. If you just try and kill the rust and paint over it though, it
> > will come back later on.
> >
> > No, I'm not a paint expert, and don't play one on TV, but I've painted
> > enough to know what has worked for me in the past. Ospho will also work
> > on aluminum. I have test pieces 20 years old with good paint still on
>it.
> >
> > I also caution against mixing types of primer and paint. If you're
> > going to use urethane paint, use urethane primer. Same with acrylic and
> > the other flavors.
> >
> > Hope this helps!
> > Linn Walters
> >
> >
>
>
Is there a gadget-lover on your gift list? MSN Shopping has lined up some
good bets! http://shopping.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
"'mrobert569(at)hotmail.com'"
| Subject: | FARs Question for Das Fed |
Mike,
We have been having an interpretive discussion in our dept about Exp built
record keeping and who can do the maintenance.
The first issue is that Part 43.1B excludes Exp from this part, but
paragraphs or verbiage of Part 43 are referenced by Part 91. In particular
91.405 and 91.407 reference specific paragraphs of Part 43 by requiring the
owner to maintain records and do not allow for continued operations unless
record entries are made after maintenance is done in accordance with those
paragraphs in Part 43.
So the question is, does the Part 43.1B exclusion override the Part 91
specific references to part 43 paragraphs, or does the Part 91 claims to
"any aircraft" override the 43.1B exclusion in those specific references.
To me this seems purely interpretive on the part of the FAA, but I believe
that Part 91 overrides the 43.1B exclusion given that the exclusion only
excludes the part as a whole but makes no attempt to exclude references to
chunks of the part by other parts.
The other question is who can do the work and return the Exp aircraft back
to service particularly when the original builder is no longer in the
picture. This sort of falls under 91.403 which says nobody can do the work
on an aircraft unless they are included (listed) in that subpart (E) or
other applicable parts including 43. Well 43 is the only place that lets an
A&P or anybody else do the work, but if 43 is excluded from this for EXP's
by 43.1B, then nobody can do the work. And the rest of Part 91 Subpart E
doesn't really list anybody else who can do this work except for a few
places where it allows for the manufacturer to do things like a transponder
check (91.413 C 3). So in this case 43 must be included or nobody can do the
work, yet if it is then A&Ps must be in the picture for any maintenance done
beyond PM on an EXP.
Now I've never explored this because I've always been an A&P or the
manufacturer, but I have a number of associates who are second owners who
are not really following these requirements, particularly the record
keeping. Certainly its reasonable to allow the manufacturer to maintain the
aircraft even though the regs don't clearly indicate this, but a second
owner could be a mere pilot with no skills at anything other than flying. I
wouldn't want to be a passenger in an aircraft being maintained by someone
of such limited stature.
I guess I personally don't really care much, but I do believe that they are
wasting their money on insurance as their aircraft are legally not airworthy
as per these regs if they maintain or alter it. It seems like I am missing
something here, or this is just being look at from afar as being beyond the
current
scope of the FAA.
Any of your wisdom or thoughts would be appreciated, although I fully
understand that Ms. Blakely's word is the only thing that really matters.
;{)
Wheeler
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: LED Warning Lamps |
>
>Disclaimer - I have searched the archives
>
>I plan on using some small LED's as and enunciator panel for such things
>as low fuel, starter engaged, low volt, etc. I bought some neat little
>led's from mouser and the other night I wanted to see how bright they
>were. Well, I'm here to tell ya their real bright for a nanosecond when
>12 volts is applied.
It's important to dim the warning lights when operating at night.
An LED that shows nicely in daylight will nearly blind you at night. There
are a bunch of ways to do this, but it must be done somehow.
The brightness of an LED is directly proportional to the current
flowing through it. The voltage across the LED is only very loosely
associated with the brightness, so you are pretty much forced to dim the
LED by controlling the current, rather than the voltage.
You typically operate an LED on 12 volts by installing a series
resistor to limit the current. As has been noted by others, the typical
current is 20 mA, so you pick a resistor using Ohm's law to deliver that
current.
To make the LEDs dimmer, you must reduce the current. In a warning
light, you want the circuit that does this to be as reliable as possible.
You can reduce the current by either increasing the series resistance or by
reducing the voltage that feeds the series resistor. Increasing the series
resistance would likely be the simplest and most reliable.
Some sort of "day/night" switch would probably be adequate. You
could put two resistors in series on each warning light. You would then put
a small diode at the connection between each of these series resistors. You
would then connect the free end of each of these diodes to a "bypass"
switch. The other terminal of the switch would be connected to plus 12
volts. When you close the bypass switch, it would cut out (bypass) one of
the series resistors and make the LEDs brighter. When you open the switch,
current would have to flow through both of the resistors and the light
would be dim.
Plus 12 V --------/\/\/\/\-------------o----/\/\/\/\-----(LED1) ---- ground
!
!
Plus 12 V ---(switch)----o----!