RV-Archive.digest.vol-ot
January 12, 2004 - January 21, 2004
"Why is it doing that?" "Where are we?" and "Oh, s--t!"
Weather forecasts are horoscopes wit! h numbers.
Airspeed, altitude, or brains: two are always needed to
complete the flight successfully.
A smooth landing is mostly luck; two in a row is all luck;
three in a row is prevarication.
Mankind has a perfect record in aviation: we never left one
up there!
Flashlights are tubular metal containers kept in a flight
bag for the purpose of storing dead batteries.
Flying the airplane is more important than radioing your
plight to a person on the ground incapable of understanding
it or doing anything about it.
When a flight is proceeding incredibly well, you forgot
something.
Just remember, if you crash because of weather, your funeral
will be held on a sunny day.
Advice given to Royal Air Force pilots during World War II:
When a prang (crash) seems inevitable, endeavor to strike
the softest, cheapest object in the vicinity as slowly and
gently as possible.
The Piper Cub is! the safest airplane in the world: it can
just barely kill you. (Attributed to Max Stanley, Northrop
test pilot) A pilot who doesn't have any fear probably isn't
flying his plane to its maximum. (Jon McBride, astronaut)
If youre faced with a forced landing, fly the thing as far
into the crash as possible. (Bob Hoover - renowned
aerobatic and test pilot) If an airplane is still in one
piece, dont cheat on it. Ride the bastard down. (Ernest
K. Gann, author &aviator)
Though I fly through the Valley of Death, I shall fear no
evil, for I am at 80,000 feet and climbing. (sign over the
entrance to the SR-71 operations area in Kadena, Japan).
You've never been lost until you've been lost at Mach 3.
(Paul F. Crickmore - test pilot)
Never fly in the same cockpit with someone braver than you.
There is no reason to fly through a thunderstorm in
peacetime. (Sign over squadron operations desk at
Davis-Monthan Air Force Base, Arizona, 1970).
Th! e best things in life are a good landing, and a good
bowel movement. The night carrier landing is one of the few
opportunities in life where you get to experience both at
the same time. (Author unknown, but someone who's been
there)
"Now I know what a dog feels like watching TV." (A DC-9
captain trainee attempting to check out on the "glass
cockpit" of an A-320).
If something hasn't broken on your helicopter, it's about
to.
Basic Flying Rules: Try to stay in the middle of the air.
Do not go near the edges of it. The edges of the air can be
recognized by the appearance of ground, buildings, sea,
trees, and interstellar space. It is much more difficult to
fly there.
You know that your landing gear is up and locked when it
takes full power to taxi to the terminal.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ENGINES/PROPS/GOV |
TULSA OKLAHOMA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RGray67968(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: PC680 Battery |
Gang,
My RV is kept in a heated hangar so no need to preheat. I just parked it
outside while we did some maintenance on my friends RV. Guess I could've pulled
it
back in.....but gee wiz.....we had 5 other RV's that all sat there
too.....they all started fine.
Again, I have noticed that it's been cranking slow on the 1st blade for a few
months now.
When I jumped it, she cranked big time like a good girl :
).....and when
fired up the volts were normal and amps were charging big time to get the battery
back up to snuff.
Update:
I just called batteries4everthing where I bought the PC680 last year. They
told me they have had like maybe 1 return on this battery in a RV application
that they could remember.....and that this was 'one good battery'.
Then, he told me they had a 2 year free replacement warranty......asked me
for my address.....and told me a replacement would be here UPS in about 3 days!
Ya' might call them when you need a battery.
https://www.batteries4everything.com/index.html
I'm going to give the PC680 one more try......thanks.
Rick Gray RV6 in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm....Ohio Valley RVators
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/OhioValleyRVators/
for the archives
At those temps you should REALLY be preheating the oil!!!.......Or are you
doing that already?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: PC680 Battery |
In a message dated 1/12/2004 11:52:55 AM Eastern Standard Time,
RGray67968(at)aol.com writes:
> I installed a PC680 battery (recommended right here) last January due to
> poor
> performance of my previous battery during the cold wx starting. My O-360
> Warnke RV6 is kept in a heated hangar. After only 1 year with the PC680 I've
>
> noticed that it wants to crank over rather slow for the 1st blade then will
> pick up
> momentum. Saturday I left my plane sit out in the 12deg cold air for about 3
>
> hours and the battery just about gave up the ghost. Did I get a 'bad'
> battery
> or what? This is unacceptable in my opinion. Not sure whether to get a
> replacement PC680 or change over to the Concorde. I'm wide open....thanks in
> advance.
> Rick Gray RV6 in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm
>
I have the PC680. Been in the plane for close to two years. I have had zero
trouble but I also keep a trickle charger plugged in year round in the
hanger. The wiring is done under the cowl so I just open the oil door and plug
in
the charger that I bought at the same time as the battery.
On away trips I have had no problems.
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, NC N910LL
193 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Milner" <tldrgred(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: PC680 Battery |
I had similar symptoms and it was due to a bad starter. I like my 680 and have
heard only good about them including duration.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: 4 tank RV-8 question |
Hi,
I don't have any personal experience with these, but here is
one supplier: http://www.users.on.net/susanb/tip.html
Mickey
At 16:53 12-01-04, Doug Rozendaal wrote:
-----Start of Original Message-----
>
>
>A friend of mine was asked to install 4 tanks, 2 extra outboard, in a RV-8
>for an IFR Commuter for a N.D. to Texas mission. NO Acro. I know this has
>been discussed, or done, any info would be appreciated. I will forward the
>responses to him.
>
>Tailwinds,
>Doug Rozendaal
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Meske <rmeske@gcfn.org> (SquirrelMail authenticated user rmeske) by www.gcfn.org with HTTP; Mon, |
12 Jan 2004 13:31:45.-0500(at)matronics.com (EST)
| Subject: | ELT antenna mounting Sugg. Position |
What mounting location would I recommend?
Well, yes this is a hard quesution to answer, but . . Here's what I feel.
Use an antenna that is not HARD. In other words, if it is hit or gets
banged around, it will not break easily. I ended up using a soft flexible
steel whip covered with a thin coating of rubber. A rubber duck antenna
will work too. Locate it just on front of the vertically stabilizer.
Locate it about 6 to 9 inches forward so you can still remove your tail
fairing.
Even though this antenna location is not hidden, I like it best because of
the compromizes. If you put the front gear in the mud and tip the plane
over, the tail still protects the antenna. Even touugh the antenna will be
up-side-down, it will still have a good signal strength so you may be found
quickly. It is much better than under the fairing.
You would be surprised, no one has told me that the antenna there looks
bad. It is not really even noticable. I know most people want to hide
antennas, but there is a price to pay for doing this in most cases, . .
performance.
We all hope and pray we never need to use our ELT antennas, but if we
do, . . Let's I hope we made the correct choices for a good location.
Rich
www.aircraftextras.com
>
> Dear Rich,
> Based on your experience and knowledge with radio waves:
> What location do you recommend/-encourage to install the ELT Antenna
> for best signal performance?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
| Subject: | Props, FARs and ADs |
Folks,
I'm a little behind on the list so bear with me if someone has responded in
later iterations.
RE reindexing props. DON'T DO IT. It can be done by changing the position
of the threaded bushings in the prop SAE #2 flanges that lycoming uses on
their crankshafts.
But, the issue is tornsional harmonics. A crankshaft is a long thin steel
noodle with various power pulses being introduced at various locations and
load pulses being introduced at either end and at the various places the
power pulses are occuring. This causes it to twist every so slightly very
rapidly. The frequency of this twisting can hit the natural harmonic
resonance of some portion of this noodle at various RPMs and load
conditions. If the load is high the intensity of the resonance will break
things, so the engine manufacturer either makes non-op ranges for that
particular prop/engine/airframe combo, or they install pendulum counter
weights on the crankshaft to alter the dynamic resonance. If you reindex the
prop you will change when the load pulses occur on one end of the noodle
thereby nullifying all data that was generated by the manufacturers of the
engines and props. If you do this on a certified aircraft you will not pass
GO.
Item two, ADs are a modification to CFR 14 Part 39. They are regulation and
they apply to whatever the author says they apply to, including exps. Now,
ask your local FSDO inspector how the hell they are ever going to enforce an
AD against an EXP or it's engine and they will look at you with a blank
stare.
And finally, with respect to tinted canopies and CFR Part 23, Part 23 does
not apply to EXPs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Navaid Autopilot For Sale |
John: I'm interested in the Navaid if you still have it. Question, has it
ever been installed and do you still have the original paperwork that came
with it? I checked with Horace at Navaid this morning and the warranty could be
transferred to me if it has not been installed or operated. Very important to
me because I won't be ready to fly my RV-6 for about a year (hopefully less).
Thanks.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, firewall forward
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net> |
Doug,
Here is a link to my web site. www.blueskyaviation.net
I have several very good looking and loaded panels pictured in RV-9A RV-8A
and a good looking strait forward RV-6A.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Doug Rozendaal
Subject: RV-List: Sexy panels
I am writing an article for IFR magazine about all the affordable sexy stuff
we have that the spam cans don't. I am looking for a hi-res picture of a
really hi-tech panel. It would not have to be RV. An emphasis on
non-certified avionics, autopilot, engine monitoring would be best.
Send them to me directly at dougr(at)petroblend.com
Tailwinds,
Doug
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | ELT antenna mounting Sugg. Position |
Locate it just on front of the vertically stabilizer.
>Locate it about 6 to 9 inches forward so you can still remove your tail
>fairing.
>
Uh, yeah...on an RV8? The canopy will snap that sucker right off in a hurry
upon the first opening.
I put the antenna under the fairing, and will do so again on the RV10.
ELT's are placebos for the soul and subject to being trashed with the rest
of the airframe in a serious prang. And, how many of us change our
batteries religiously per FARs anyway?
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
Find high-speed net deals comparison-shop your local providers here.
https://broadband.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
Rick,
Our experience has been that you should probably be counting your blessings
that it DID crank at 3 hours of 12 degrees. I remember the COLD experience
we BOTH had a year ago before we BOTH switched to the PC680. I notice that
when our O-320 gets really cold, we are in fact pushing our luck.
We do not have an engine preheater so we use the old light bulb through the
oil door trick to try to keep some temp around the engine in the NON-heated
hangar. Ken on the other hand has the heating pads on his oil sump and his
oil is kept up around 70-80 degrees I think. As a result, when he calls on
his PC680 to crank his engine ... BAM(!) no problem.
I also picked up a battery "conditioner" from Sears in order to keep the
battery kinda "topped off" and/or with some temp. We will see how this all
works in a day or so. Of course non of this would have help the situation
you mentioned and non of it is probably need in your heated hangar scenario.
Just one perspective on it. I plan to stay with the PC680.
As an aside ... I notice you guys are having WAY TOO MUCH FUN up there
*near* the "Buffalo Farm". :-)
James
trying to get me and the plane recovered from my cold/flu session
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> RGray67968(at)aol.com
> Sent: Monday, January 12, 2004 11:49 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: PC680 Battery
>
>
> I installed a PC680 battery (recommended right here) last January
> due to poor
> performance of my previous battery during the cold wx starting. My O-360
> Warnke RV6 is kept in a heated hangar. After only 1 year with the
> PC680 I've
> noticed that it wants to crank over rather slow for the 1st blade
> then will pick up
> momentum. Saturday I left my plane sit out in the 12deg cold air
> for about 3
> hours and the battery just about gave up the ghost. Did I get a
> 'bad' battery
> or what? This is unacceptable in my opinion. Not sure whether to get a
> replacement PC680 or change over to the Concorde. I'm wide
> open....thanks in advance.
> Rick Gray RV6 in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)excelgeo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: PC680 Battery |
Rick,
My first PC680 started giving me problems not long after I started
flying. Symptoms were slow cranking and no cranking if left sitting for
extended periods. I chose to by a new one since the original was over
two years old and had had a hard life. The new one worked great. Then
one day I started having similar slow cranking problems but it always
started. This bothered me to say the least. Then one day I was heading
for lunch with one of the other guys when I noticed my buss voltage was
lower than normal. I played with all the switches, reset the alternator
field and even switched tanks when the one I was flying on went dry and
found nothing changed the voltage. We ate lunch and headed home. I was
then real curious as to what was wrong. I started from the battery and
checked all connections. I found my current limiter ('81 Honda 55 amp
main fuse) had corroded. The little aluminum fuse had exfoliated and
literally fell apart when I touched it. I cleaned up fuse hold down
screws and installed a replacement and all my low voltage and slow
cranking problems went away. I then thought of all the similar problems
I had with my original battery and wondered if maybe it was the charging
issue I just fixed and not the battery. The original batter was checked
and found to have on bad cell.
Moral of the story, check all your connections before placing blame on
the battery.
Gary Zilik
RGray67968(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>I installed a PC680 battery (recommended right here) last January due to poor
>performance of my previous battery during the cold wx starting. My O-360
>Warnke RV6 is kept in a heated hangar. After only 1 year with the PC680 I've
>noticed that it wants to crank over rather slow for the 1st blade then will pick
up
>momentum. Saturday I left my plane sit out in the 12deg cold air for about 3
>hours and the battery just about gave up the ghost. Did I get a 'bad' battery
>or what? This is unacceptable in my opinion. Not sure whether to get a
>replacement PC680 or change over to the Concorde. I'm wide open....thanks in advance.
>Rick Gray RV6 in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | ELT antenna mounting Sugg. Position |
Rich,
That makes my RV-8A a one-seater!
Terry
Locate it just on front of the vertically stabilizer.
Locate it about 6 to 9 inches forward so you can still remove your tail
fairing.
Rich
www.aircraftextras.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Does anyone out there plug a trickle charger into their power jack (aka
cig lighter) to charge the battery? I was thinking of do so on my RV-8 --
the front seat jack is on the batt buss.. I haven't seen a charger with
that type of plug though. Are there such things?
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
James E. Clark said:
>
> Rick,
>
> Our experience has been that you should probably be counting your
> blessings
> that it DID crank at 3 hours of 12 degrees. I remember the COLD experience
> we BOTH had a year ago before we BOTH switched to the PC680. I notice that
> when our O-320 gets really cold, we are in fact pushing our luck.
>
> We do not have an engine preheater so we use the old light bulb through
> the
> oil door trick to try to keep some temp around the engine in the
> NON-heated
> hangar. Ken on the other hand has the heating pads on his oil sump and his
> oil is kept up around 70-80 degrees I think. As a result, when he calls on
> his PC680 to crank his engine ... BAM(!) no problem.
>
> I also picked up a battery "conditioner" from Sears in order to keep the
> battery kinda "topped off" and/or with some temp. We will see how this all
> works in a day or so. Of course non of this would have help the situation
> you mentioned and non of it is probably need in your heated hangar
> scenario.
>
> Just one perspective on it. I plan to stay with the PC680.
>
> As an aside ... I notice you guys are having WAY TOO MUCH FUN up there
> *near* the "Buffalo Farm". :-)
>
>
> James
>
> trying to get me and the plane recovered from my cold/flu session
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
>> RGray67968(at)aol.com
>> Sent: Monday, January 12, 2004 11:49 AM
>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RV-List: PC680 Battery
>>
>>
>>
>> I installed a PC680 battery (recommended right here) last January
>> due to poor
>> performance of my previous battery during the cold wx starting. My O-360
>> Warnke RV6 is kept in a heated hangar. After only 1 year with the
>> PC680 I've
>> noticed that it wants to crank over rather slow for the 1st blade
>> then will pick up
>> momentum. Saturday I left my plane sit out in the 12deg cold air
>> for about 3
>> hours and the battery just about gave up the ghost. Did I get a
>> 'bad' battery
>> or what? This is unacceptable in my opinion. Not sure whether to get a
>> replacement PC680 or change over to the Concorde. I'm wide
>> open....thanks in advance.
>> Rick Gray RV6 in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Props, FARs and ADs |
http://www.rvproject.com/m20j/pdfs/service_bulletins/sbm20-206.pdf
The above is a link to the Service Bulletin that Mooney put out in the 70s
describing how to re-index the prop flange bushings to get smoother
operation.
Back in my Mooney days, I had an IO-360-A3B6D, which is an -A1B6D with the
prop flange bushings re-indexed. That sucker ran very smoothly (compared to
another Mooney with an -A1A, I know, apples and oranges).
In any case, Mooney and Lycoming endorsed this conversion, and I flew
hundreds of smooth hours behind it.
Am I going to do it on my -A1B6? Doubt it.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Subject: RV-List: Props, FARs and ADs
>
> Folks,
>
> I'm a little behind on the list so bear with me if someone has responded
in
> later iterations.
>
> RE reindexing props. DON'T DO IT. It can be done by changing the position
> of the threaded bushings in the prop SAE #2 flanges that lycoming uses on
> their crankshafts.
>
> But, the issue is tornsional harmonics. A crankshaft is a long thin steel
> noodle with various power pulses being introduced at various locations and
> load pulses being introduced at either end and at the various places the
> power pulses are occuring. This causes it to twist every so slightly very
> rapidly. The frequency of this twisting can hit the natural harmonic
> resonance of some portion of this noodle at various RPMs and load
> conditions. If the load is high the intensity of the resonance will break
> things, so the engine manufacturer either makes non-op ranges for that
> particular prop/engine/airframe combo, or they install pendulum counter
> weights on the crankshaft to alter the dynamic resonance. If you reindex
the
> prop you will change when the load pulses occur on one end of the noodle
> thereby nullifying all data that was generated by the manufacturers of the
> engines and props. If you do this on a certified aircraft you will not
pass
> GO.
>
> Item two, ADs are a modification to CFR 14 Part 39. They are regulation
and
> they apply to whatever the author says they apply to, including exps. Now,
> ask your local FSDO inspector how the hell they are ever going to enforce
an
> AD against an EXP or it's engine and they will look at you with a blank
> stare.
>
> And finally, with respect to tinted canopies and CFR Part 23, Part 23 does
> not apply to EXPs.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aux Oil Pump |
>
>Bart at AeroSport Power recommends a pre-heater over a pre-oiler. I have
>one of the pumps from Infinity Aerospace. There is a lot of plumbing
>envolved and one way valves. I have not installed it. I can sell it to you
>for half price if your interested.
>
>
>Scott Bilinski
I wonder what new failure modes all this plumbing and one-way valves
introduce. Maybe the increased risk of an oil problem would over weigh the
small benefit of pre-oiling.
Kevin Horton
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: ENGINES/PROPS/GOV |
In a message dated 01/12/2004 10:13:59 AM Pacific Standard Time,
gtsio(at)aol.com writes:
TULSA OKLAHOMA
Keeping this information exchange to your apparent limited level, who are you?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon(at)msn.com> |
I installed a small plug in the sub-panel of my -4. I then cut the
alligator clips from the leads on my trickle charger and installed the
mating connector. Now I can easily plug my trickle charger into the outlet
on the panel to charge the battery.
One could use a cigarette lighter receptacle for the same purpose, but I am
never satisified with the quality of connection. I also carry in my tool
kit a connecter with short pigtails wires should I be "on the road" and need
to charge my battery using someone else's charger.
Good luck,
Dean
>From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: PC680 Battery
>Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 14:45:01 -0500 (EST)
>
>
>Does anyone out there plug a trickle charger into their power jack (aka
>cig lighter) to charge the battery? I was thinking of do so on my RV-8 --
>the front seat jack is on the batt buss.. I haven't seen a charger with
>that type of plug though. Are there such things?
>
>-
>Larry Bowen
>Larry(at)BowenAero.com
>http://BowenAero.com
>
>James E. Clark said:
>
> >
> > Rick,
> >
> > Our experience has been that you should probably be counting your
> > blessings
> > that it DID crank at 3 hours of 12 degrees. I remember the COLD
>experience
> > we BOTH had a year ago before we BOTH switched to the PC680. I notice
>that
> > when our O-320 gets really cold, we are in fact pushing our luck.
> >
> > We do not have an engine preheater so we use the old light bulb through
> > the
> > oil door trick to try to keep some temp around the engine in the
> > NON-heated
> > hangar. Ken on the other hand has the heating pads on his oil sump and
>his
> > oil is kept up around 70-80 degrees I think. As a result, when he calls
>on
> > his PC680 to crank his engine ... BAM(!) no problem.
> >
> > I also picked up a battery "conditioner" from Sears in order to keep the
> > battery kinda "topped off" and/or with some temp. We will see how this
>all
> > works in a day or so. Of course non of this would have help the
>situation
> > you mentioned and non of it is probably need in your heated hangar
> > scenario.
> >
> > Just one perspective on it. I plan to stay with the PC680.
> >
> > As an aside ... I notice you guys are having WAY TOO MUCH FUN up there
> > *near* the "Buffalo Farm". :-)
> >
> >
> > James
> >
> > trying to get me and the plane recovered from my cold/flu session
> >
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> >> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> >> RGray67968(at)aol.com
> >> Sent: Monday, January 12, 2004 11:49 AM
> >> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >> Subject: RV-List: PC680 Battery
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> I installed a PC680 battery (recommended right here) last January
> >> due to poor
> >> performance of my previous battery during the cold wx starting. My
>O-360
> >> Warnke RV6 is kept in a heated hangar. After only 1 year with the
> >> PC680 I've
> >> noticed that it wants to crank over rather slow for the 1st blade
> >> then will pick up
> >> momentum. Saturday I left my plane sit out in the 12deg cold air
> >> for about 3
> >> hours and the battery just about gave up the ghost. Did I get a
> >> 'bad' battery
> >> or what? This is unacceptable in my opinion. Not sure whether to get a
> >> replacement PC680 or change over to the Concorde. I'm wide
> >> open....thanks in advance.
> >> Rick Gray RV6 in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)QCBC.ORG> |
| Subject: | Re: AD compliance |
I will go even further than Mike. I suggested that the FAA track the
equipment list by aircraft. I even sent my equipment list to the FAA so I
could get ALL the Ads for my airplane. You see equipment over the years
gets changed. For example, my Franklin engine has had 3 different brands of
Magnetos. The Carburetor has had 4 different type floats. Do I get Ads for
these items? NO.
Fortunately, I can check my equipment for ADs as the FAA claims they can't
up-date their data base. This used to be a valid excuse but I could easily
do it with my home computer as the power of home computers is much better
than any computer of the 70s or 80s.
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: AD compliance
>
> Joel,
>
> This is one of those areas that will probably be discussed for eons. Your
> friend is technically correct, but it has been determined by the FAA head
> legal folks that there is no way at this time to enforce it because prior
to
> about 1985 engines and propellers were no listed in the FAA registry with
> the aircraft's registration. The registration data base is what is used
to
> send ADs. And because the database is not Completely up-to-date for ALL
> aircraft, all owners may not receive ADs, therefore they cannot be held
> accountable.
>
> there has been some attempt by certain regions, i.e. the northeastern
> region, to make them mandatroy anyways. They have been informed that they
> can't arbitrarially do that. I don't know if the word got out to all
> inspectors in that region yet, so beware.
>
> In my own opinion, what is probably going to happen sometime in the future
> is that a part of your condition inspection will be an AD search and
> compliance requirement. That is my opinion only though and it may, or may
> not, take some other form, or no form at all.
>
> Mike Robertson
>
>
> >From: smoothweasel(at)juno.com
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RV-List: AD compliance
> >Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 19:47:15 -0600
> >
> >
> > I was chatting with a friend the other day and he made the
> >statement that EXPERIMENTAL aircraft are NOT exempt from AD
> >compliances....... I did not get involved in a discussion that I am not
> >sure of but my thinking is that there is no requirement for them to
> >comply.
> >
> >Joel "Weasel" Graber
> >-4 painted as of last weekend
> >
> >
>
> High-speed usersbe more efficient online with the new MSN Premium Internet
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)QCBC.ORG> |
"'RV-List Digest Server '"
| Subject: | Re: Props, FARs and ADs |
But the DAR can write it up in the operational limitations. AND can refuse
to provide an Airworthiness Certificate using any FAR he decides that you
haven't met.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Subject: RV-List: Props, FARs and ADs
>
> Folks,
>
> I'm a little behind on the list so bear with me if someone has responded
in
> later iterations.
>
> RE reindexing props. DON'T DO IT. It can be done by changing the position
> of the threaded bushings in the prop SAE #2 flanges that lycoming uses on
> their crankshafts.
>
> But, the issue is tornsional harmonics. A crankshaft is a long thin steel
> noodle with various power pulses being introduced at various locations and
> load pulses being introduced at either end and at the various places the
> power pulses are occuring. This causes it to twist every so slightly very
> rapidly. The frequency of this twisting can hit the natural harmonic
> resonance of some portion of this noodle at various RPMs and load
> conditions. If the load is high the intensity of the resonance will break
> things, so the engine manufacturer either makes non-op ranges for that
> particular prop/engine/airframe combo, or they install pendulum counter
> weights on the crankshaft to alter the dynamic resonance. If you reindex
the
> prop you will change when the load pulses occur on one end of the noodle
> thereby nullifying all data that was generated by the manufacturers of the
> engines and props. If you do this on a certified aircraft you will not
pass
> GO.
>
> Item two, ADs are a modification to CFR 14 Part 39. They are regulation
and
> they apply to whatever the author says they apply to, including exps. Now,
> ask your local FSDO inspector how the hell they are ever going to enforce
an
> AD against an EXP or it's engine and they will look at you with a blank
> stare.
>
> And finally, with respect to tinted canopies and CFR Part 23, Part 23 does
> not apply to EXPs.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ENGINES/PROPS/GOV |
INDIVIDUAL. I HAVE A CLIENTALE OF ABOUT 150 CUSTOMERS I HAVE SOLD TO. I AM A
23 YEAR PILOT MYSELF. BUT ONLY DO IT AS A HOBBY.I HAVE 17 PROP SHOPS I DEAL
WITH AND ABOUT THAT MANY ENGINE SHOPS.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: PC680 Battery |
Hi James,
Putting the light bulb in through the cooling air outlet area so that it
resides under the oil pan (if access is possible?) should improve the engine
heating effect for log time or overnight storage.
If you have a standard wall outlet to supply lighting it should or might
also support the use of a hair drier.
I have an all metal Hobbyist's hot air gun that I use for heat shinking the
wiring I'm presently doing that was less that $30.00 to buy and puts out
more heat than a hairdyer.
Try this:
Bend some coat hanger wire so as to support a 1500 watt hairdryer or the
heat guin described above safely in place in the cowling cooling air outlet.
Put inlet air plugs in place and close the oil door. Throw a cargo blanket,
or what have you, over the cowling and turn on the hairdryer. Wait 20 to 60
minutes depending on ambient air temp.
A surprising amount of heat will be generated and held in the cowling so
take care toward safety issues. Leave the blanket off if you intend to
leave the aircraft unattended during the preheat period.
Pre heating this way in a closed (wind protected hangar) area should get the
job done in quite cold climate conditions.
Keep warm,
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: PC680 Battery
>
> Rick,
>
> Our experience has been that you should probably be counting your
blessings
> that it DID crank at 3 hours of 12 degrees. I remember the COLD experience
> we BOTH had a year ago before we BOTH switched to the PC680. I notice that
> when our O-320 gets really cold, we are in fact pushing our luck.
>
> We do not have an engine preheater so we use the old light bulb through
the
> oil door trick to try to keep some temp around the engine in the
NON-heated
> hangar. Ken on the other hand has the heating pads on his oil sump and his
> oil is kept up around 70-80 degrees I think. As a result, when he calls on
> his PC680 to crank his engine ... BAM(!) no problem.
>
> I also picked up a battery "conditioner" from Sears in order to keep the
> battery kinda "topped off" and/or with some temp. We will see how this all
> works in a day or so. Of course non of this would have help the situation
> you mentioned and non of it is probably need in your heated hangar
scenario.
>
> Just one perspective on it. I plan to stay with the PC680.
>
> As an aside ... I notice you guys are having WAY TOO MUCH FUN up there
> *near* the "Buffalo Farm". :-)
>
>
> James
>
> trying to get me and the plane recovered from my cold/flu session
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> > RGray67968(at)aol.com
> > Sent: Monday, January 12, 2004 11:49 AM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV-List: PC680 Battery
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ENGINES/PROPS/GOV |
IF YOU WANT TO SPEAK WITH ME PLEASE FILL FREE TO CALL ME.
DOUG WORK
918-734-7646
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: PC680 Battery |
Jim Jewell wrote:
>
>
> Hi James,
> If you have a standard wall outlet to supply lighting it should or might
> also support the use of a hair drier.
> I have an all metal Hobbyist's hot air gun that I use for heat shinking the
> wiring I'm presently doing that was less that $30.00 to buy and puts out
> more heat than a hairdyer.
Just hope there are no fuel fumes in the engine compartment while the
red-hot element of the heat gun is on! :-)
Sam Buchanan
http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 25 Msgs - 01/11/04 |
Reference gear teeth & size of starter gears.
Keep in mind that the size of the gear and the number of teeth are not
necessarily linked in lock step. It is entirely possible to cut a few percent
extra or short on the number of teeth without changing the pitch diameter!!!
This is all done with standard cutters!
This is a quite "deep" subject but trust me. I have had pairs of gears
cut at exactly the same effective pitch diameter with one, two or three extra
teeth. Makes a high-ratio reduction unit when meshed with a single pinion!!
To relate gear diameter to number of teeth requires that you be certain that
they were cut to standard pitch diameters. Non-standards can be cut with
standard hobbs! Don't ask me how I know---it's a loooong story.
Paul S.
Petersen RV6A 90% done, ? to go.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob U." <rv3(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ELT antenna mounting Sugg. Position |
Terry Watson wrote:
>
>OK Bob, what is your suggestion for the location of an ELT antenna in an
>RV-8? Top of the Canopy? Top of the vertical stabilizer? On a wing? On
>the bottom of the fuselage? Inside a wingtip? There is no distance between
>the back of the canopy and the bottom of the vertical stabilizer - they
>overlap. I've ELT antennas installed in two locations: on the bulkhead
>behind the rear seat, bent around in an arc to match the top skin of the
>fuselage; and under the empennage fairing as previously described. I
>haven't installed mine yet, so if you have a better idea I would sure like
>to hear it.
>
>Terry
>RV-8A wiring
>Seattle
>
I'm not suggesting a specific location since what I responded to was/is
a *dangerous attitude*, IMO.
Here it is again...
"ELT's are placebos for the soul......."
"And, how many of us change our
batteries religiously per FARs anyway?"
Such an attitude call even spill over into other areas where safety should remain
a premium. It is my opinion that such remarks should not go unaddressed in
a forum like ours... lest it taint others who might otherwise maintain the highest
regard for safety and rescue. Call me annal, but I've survived 50 years of
flight and not all of it has been just dumb luck.
Bob - carrying a cell phone on every flight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | larry gobin <edge540t(at)direcway.com> |
Is there a back set available that's about 10" or 12'' long. I have the one
that's 3 1/2'' with the spring on it
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Curt" <choffman9(at)cinci.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Back Rivet Set |
Avery has a long one with a slight crook in it to back rivet the wing skins.
I, like many people I read about, didn't really care for it in that
application. It doesn't ahve the spring loaded end, just a cupped out flat
section to make the shop head. But it will work if you need to reach a back
rivet area. There may be others as well.
----- Original Message -----
From: "larry gobin" <edge540t(at)direcway.com>
Subject: RV-List: Back Rivet Set
>
> Is there a back set available that's about 10" or 12'' long. I have the
one
> that's 3 1/2'' with the spring on it
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Back Rivet Set |
Larry:
Avery's has a 10 1/2 inch backrivet set part Number 4580. Go to
www.averytools.com
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
Panel
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "larry gobin" <edge540t(at)direcway.com>
Subject: RV-List: Back Rivet Set
>
> Is there a back set available that's about 10" or 12'' long. I have the
one
> that's 3 1/2'' with the spring on it
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson(at)consolidated.net> |
I think the satellites are monitoring ELT's now. We are out in the
boonies , 50 miles from a large town and on several occasions our
airport manager has gotten calls from Flight Service that there is an
ELT going off on our airport. usually it has been a medical helicopter
across the road. a few times it has been an airplane on the field , but
it comes in pretty quick, usually less than half hour when it happens
and they have the area very well pinpointed to within a quarter mile..
Phil.
flmike wrote:
>
>By the time we get agreement on the ELT antenna
>location, the PLB will supercede it. Well, actually
>it already has. We'll just have to wait for the FAA
>to catch up.
>
>A PLB and a handheld transciever will get your butt
>rescued a lot quicker than any ELT. I suppose you
>could use the ELT batteries to power a signaling
>flashlight though.
>
>Mike
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Fogerson" <rickf(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Brass Instrument Screws for MicroAir avionics |
The MicroAir radio and xpdr use 8-36 thread screws which is not common. Does anyone
know of a source for these. I need 8 and would prefer countersunk brass
screws but might have to consider other if forced to.
Thanks for help,
Rick Fogerson
RV3 wiring
Boise, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Fogerson" <rickf(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Grand Rapids EIS 4000 MAP sensor |
Grand Rapids recommends placing the MAP sensor in the cockpit because it uses a
plastic case. I'm not going to because I've gone to a lot of effort and some
$'s to protect the cockpit from engine fires. Placing the sensor in the cockpit
means you would have to bring a manifold pressure hose through the firewall.
Has anyone else had any good or bad experience with this sensor in the engine
compartment.
thanks,
Rick Fogerson
Boise, ID
RV3 wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brass Instrument Screws for MicroAir avionics |
McMaster Carr sells 8-36 screws, but only in the socket head cap form
factor, not a pan-head machine screw. See page 2898 of McMaster's online
catalog. For example, part #91251A494. http://www.mcmaster.com
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Fogerson" <rickf(at)cableone.net>
Subject: RV-List: Brass Instrument Screws for MicroAir avionics
>
> The MicroAir radio and xpdr use 8-36 thread screws which is not common.
Does anyone know of a source for these. I need 8 and would prefer
countersunk brass screws but might have to consider other if forced to.
> Thanks for help,
> Rick Fogerson
> RV3 wiring
> Boise, ID
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brass Instrument Screws for MicroAir avionics |
Ah...found what you're looking for:
http://www.wicksaircraft.com/gotopage.php?page=94
)_( Dan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Brass Instrument Screws for MicroAir avionics
> McMaster Carr sells 8-36 screws, but only in the socket head cap form
> factor, not a pan-head machine screw. See page 2898 of McMaster's online
> catalog. For example, part #91251A494. http://www.mcmaster.com
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Rick Fogerson" <rickf(at)cableone.net>
> To: "RV List" ;
> Sent: Monday, January 12, 2004 9:18 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Brass Instrument Screws for MicroAir avionics
>
>
> >
> > The MicroAir radio and xpdr use 8-36 thread screws which is not common.
> Does anyone know of a source for these. I need 8 and would prefer
> countersunk brass screws but might have to consider other if forced to.
> > Thanks for help,
> > Rick Fogerson
> > RV3 wiring
> > Boise, ID
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Brass Instrument Screws for MicroAir avionics |
In a message dated 1/12/2004 9:26:16 PM Pacific Standard Time,
rickf(at)cableone.net writes:
The MicroAir radio and xpdr use 8-36 thread screws which is not common. Does
anyone know of a source for these. I need 8 and would prefer countersunk
brass screws but might have to consider other if forced to.
Rick-
Actually they are common 4mm coarse thread screws and you can probably get
them at Olander in Stainless Steel. I don't know if they have the black oxided
brass.
GV (RV-6A N1GV flying 675 hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "GMC" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: ELT antenna mounting |
Re ELT antenna mounting.
Comment - a good ELT installation can be heard at least 150 NM away by an
aircraft flying at FL350. We monitored 121.5 on our # 3 radio and reported
ELT signals to ATC. They always asked us to let them know where and when we
picked up and lost the ELT signal, it seemed to take forever to fly through
that annoying noise.
Question - anyone know how big (long) the antennae is for the new 406 MHZ
ELT's.
ICAO wants dual frequency ELT's 121.5 and 406 installed after 2005. My
understanding is that USA, Canada and others are going to allow a low cost
406 MHZ only ELT on non-commercial aircraft and the satellites will
eventually phase out 121.5 receivers.
Hold off on the purchase of your ELT if you can.
George in Langley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | a flyer <aflyer(at)direcway.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Grand Rapids EIS 4000 MAP sensor |
My Vision 1000 system MAP sensor has the same requirement. I came through
the firewall with a bulkhead fitting, then to the sensor.
It is not so bad, since MAP is actually lower than atmospheric pressure, a
leaky line won't send fumes into the cabin. It sucks :o)
John Huft
RV8 flying
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Fogerson" <rickf(at)cableone.net>
Subject: RV-List: Grand Rapids EIS 4000 MAP sensor
>
> Grand Rapids recommends placing the MAP sensor in the cockpit because it
uses a plastic case. I'm not going to because I've gone to a lot of effort
and some $'s to protect the cockpit from engine fires. Placing the sensor
in the cockpit means you would have to bring a manifold pressure hose
through the firewall. Has anyone else had any good or bad experience with
this sensor in the engine compartment.
> thanks,
> Rick Fogerson
> Boise, ID
> RV3 wiring
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Calhoun <roncal(at)earthlink.net> |
I just had my AH overhauled ($412) and on first flight it still did not work.
My A&P re-plumbed vacuum lines to suction through AH and DG on single line, not
dual as new vacuum kit instructions said. It worked on the ground.
Flew yesterday and it worked for a while and then intermittent. With everything
new, we are at a loss. Your advice would be appreciated.
Ron Calhoun
RV-4 Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)QCBC.ORG> |
The problem with ELTs even though they are using Russian Satellites to
monitor is that it takes TWO passes to determine location and cut down on
false alerts. ELT alerts can be triggered by interference sources and fewer
than 2 in 1000 ELT alerts and 2 in 100 composite alerts are actual distress.
A PLB takes but one pass as it sends info back when the satellite
interrogates it making the location and ID on first pass and they have an
accuracy of about 1 in 12 . PLB is also much more powerful and location is
much more accurate. The old ELT will be phased out before the end of this
decade (2009).
The ill-conceived knee-jerk ELT program was mandated by our Congress after a
plane could not be found went down carrying a Congressman in Alaska. Typical
FED reaction, pass a law to fix a problem without proper thought.
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson(at)consolidated.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: ELTs
>
> I think the satellites are monitoring ELT's now. We are out in the
> boonies , 50 miles from a large town and on several occasions our
> airport manager has gotten calls from Flight Service that there is an
> ELT going off on our airport. usually it has been a medical helicopter
> across the road. a few times it has been an airplane on the field , but
> it comes in pretty quick, usually less than half hour when it happens
> and they have the area very well pinpointed to within a quarter mile..
>
> Phil.
>
>
> flmike wrote:
>
> >
> >By the time we get agreement on the ELT antenna
> >location, the PLB will supercede it. Well, actually
> >it already has. We'll just have to wait for the FAA
> >to catch up.
> >
> >A PLB and a handheld transciever will get your butt
> >rescued a lot quicker than any ELT. I suppose you
> >could use the ELT batteries to power a signaling
> >flashlight though.
> >
> >Mike
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)QCBC.ORG> |
| Subject: | Re: Brass Instrument Screws for MicroAir avionics |
Try a hardware store.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Fogerson" <rickf(at)cableone.net>
Subject: RV-List: Brass Instrument Screws for MicroAir avionics
>
> The MicroAir radio and xpdr use 8-36 thread screws which is not common.
Does anyone know of a source for these. I need 8 and would prefer
countersunk brass screws but might have to consider other if forced to.
> Thanks for help,
> Rick Fogerson
> RV3 wiring
> Boise, ID
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Meske <rmeske@gcfn.org> (SquirrelMail authenticated user rmeske) by www.gcfn.org with HTTP; Tue, |
13 Jan 2004 09:26:47.-0500(at)matronics.com (EST)
| Subject: | ELTs and Satellites |
One fellow said he thought that our ELTs were being heard by satellites.
True, but not very reliable for the 121.5MHz variety, . . especially when
you mount your antenna where it cannot transmit efficently.
Check this link out to see:
http://www.equipped.com/406_vs_1215.htm
Rich Meske
www.aircraftextras.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Brass Instrument Screws for MicroAir avionics |
Did they specifically state that these are 8-36 screws? Or is it
possible that they are metric M4x0.7 screws (4mm dia, thread pitch 0.7mm)?
Dick Tasker, 9A #90573
Rick Fogerson wrote:
>
>The MicroAir radio and xpdr use 8-36 thread screws which is not common. Does
anyone know of a source for these. I need 8 and would prefer countersunk brass
screws but might have to consider other if forced to.
>Thanks for help,
>Rick Fogerson
>RV3 wiring
>Boise, ID
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
, ,
| Subject: | 6/7/9 Seat Cushions For Sale |
For sale:
Van's Seat Cushions (Foam & Patterns) for RV-6[A], RV-7[A], RV-9[A]
As seen here in Van's catalog:
http://checkoway.com/url/?s=49df5301
"CA SEAT SET 7/9"
I paid $190, you can steal 'em for $150 including shipping anywhere in the
US. Still in the box (may be dusty, otherwise brand new).
First come, first serve,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vic Jacko" <vicwj(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Brass Instrument Screws for MicroAir avionics |
Rick, I used stainless steel screws which you can get anywhere! If a
magnet will not pick them up you know they are OK.
Vic
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Fogerson" <rickf(at)cableone.net>
Subject: RV-List: Brass Instrument Screws for MicroAir avionics
>
> The MicroAir radio and xpdr use 8-36 thread screws which is not common.
Does anyone know of a source for these. I need 8 and would prefer
countersunk brass screws but might have to consider other if forced to.
> Thanks for help,
> Rick Fogerson
> RV3 wiring
> Boise, ID
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vic Jacko" <vicwj(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ELT antenna mounting |
Divide 234 by the freq in Mhz to determine the approximate 1/4 length of
the transmitting or receiving antenna in feet. ( 234/406 = .576 of a foot.
.576 x 12 inches equals 6.91 inches give or take a little.)
Vic,
----- Original Message -----
From: "GMC" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: ELT antenna mounting
>
>
> Re ELT antenna mounting.
>
> Comment - a good ELT installation can be heard at least 150 NM away by an
> aircraft flying at FL350. We monitored 121.5 on our # 3 radio and reported
> ELT signals to ATC. They always asked us to let them know where and when
we
> picked up and lost the ELT signal, it seemed to take forever to fly
through
> that annoying noise.
>
> Question - anyone know how big (long) the antennae is for the new 406 MHZ
> ELT's.
>
> ICAO wants dual frequency ELT's 121.5 and 406 installed after 2005. My
> understanding is that USA, Canada and others are going to allow a low cost
> 406 MHZ only ELT on non-commercial aircraft and the satellites will
> eventually phase out 121.5 receivers.
>
> Hold off on the purchase of your ELT if you can.
>
> George in Langley
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.net> |
Jim
Your test msg came through fine here. I attended the AeroElectric Seminar
at Jefferson City this weekend. It was excellent and certainly worth the
money to me. Ron Burnett and Ray Kennedy from the chapter were there too.
Best Regards Alden
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Test
>
> Gang,
>
> If this gets through, please accept my apologies for junking up your
> in-baskets. If not, I am having problems. I'll wait and see if this
> bounces back to me.
>
> Jim Bower
> St. Louis
> RV-6A - Fuselage (Finish kit on order)
>
> Tired of slow downloads? Compare online deals from your local high-speed
> providers now. https://broadband.msn.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com> |
Just curious. What provisions, if any, are you guys making for jump
starting a dead battery?
Vince
Find high-speed net deals comparison-shop your local providers here.
https://broadband.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BLAKE" <bavant(at)mchsi.com> |
| Subject: | The Van's Aircraft Company motto |
Hello RVators,
Although I have been reading the list for 6 years now, I just recently
ordered my RV-7A empennage kit. My shop has been ready and waiting for this
moment for a long time and you folks have helped me get it right. I really
appreciate this list and all of its benefits and I'm sure to post many
questions in the future. Well, here's my first question:
Have you been pleased with the Order Dept. at Van's?
I really do regret starting my posting with gripes, but I had always
envisioned Van's Aircraft being a big efficient company, with lots of
helpful people. Recently, I emailed my order form for the Empennage Kit and
called for a follow-up to ensure the order form attachment was legible. I
talked with a young lady who gave me a bunch of hem-haws about emailing
"kit" orders(keep in mind I'm potentially spending over $20k). Later that
day, a friendly voice told me that email orders are only checked in the
morning, since it was Friday, my order would be looked at on Monday morning.
This morning(Tues.) there was no email receipt of an order or any
information regarding my order, so, today I followed up with yet another
call to ensure my order was processed, and found out it had been submited.
It is in crating. I wanted to know the order number, and how I could track
the order in the future. The attitude over the phone suggested that I was
too demanding in my request, and that she didn't know when the kit would be
shipped or what the tracking number was. Then I was told to call back in a
couple of days to find out how to track my $1800 order. That's right, I've
got to call them back.
Folks, I've ordered $5 items from the internet and was flooded with email
information on amount charged, shipping dates, tracking numbers, and long
thoughtful comments thanking me for my FIVE DOLLAR business. Now I spend
$1800 and potentially another $15k and I can't even find out when/if my
shippment is going out. Is this the Van's Aircraft way of doing business?
Please help a very patient man to understand what's happening at a
previously respected company. I had my heart set on a RV for years, I was
very excited to place my first order and this is a disheartening way to
start the long building process.
Fellow Aviator and Future RVer,
Blake Avant
Navarre, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | The Van's Aircraft Company motto |
Is this the Van's Aircraft way of doing business?
>Please help a very patient man to understand what's happening at a
>previously respected company. I had my heart set on a RV for years, I was
>very excited to place my first order and this is a disheartening way to
>start the long building process.
>
>Fellow Aviator and Future RVer,
>
>Blake Avant
>Navarre, FL
Blake,
I've been dealing with Van's for seven years now and have very few
complaints. If you ordered within the past couple of weeks, they have been
dealing with not only annual inventory but wicked, nasty weather that
snarled all kinds of freight carriers. Generally, I leave them alone, place
my orders as they want them placed, and only inquire if a week has gone by
with nothing from the UPS man.
There are also days when they're up to their collective necks in alligators,
as in any business, when many customers are asking very few employees for
everything including time of day and how's the weather.
Give 'em some room to breathe, and I guarantee you WILL be impressed with
the products you receive from them. I'm starting my second kit now (RV10),
which will cost a LOT more than my RV8 did. I wouldn't do that with a
company that continually boogered up orders or treated me poorly.
Welcome to the RV fraternity!
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
Find high-speed net deals comparison-shop your local providers here.
https://broadband.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The Van's Aircraft Company motto |
Brian gave a good reply. They are great folks, competnent, maybae
understaffed for what they do, but ALWAYS get the job (order) done in a
decently prompt manner. You are right - they don't have an "automated
reply" e-mail system and they don't take the time to e-mail you to hold your
hand while they are establishing you in their customer database, passing the
order to those who pick and crate the stuff, and then arrange for a pickup
by a carrier. They focus on getting the job done, not the "feel good" stuff
that you are more used to seeing.
You'll be happy. Just back off and let them do their job. I don't mean the
"back off" thing to be "harsh", just a practical thing.
You'll be assigned a Customer Number - you will want to use that in any
written, e-mail, fax or voice telephone contact you have with them - that is
what they look up to track the stuff you are asking about. So, maybe you
are so new that you haven't been notified of your Customer Number. If you
have it, try giving them that the next time you call to check status - I'll
bet they'll pull your record up and give you an accurate, up-to-date status
report.
David
----- Original Message -----
From: "BLAKE" <bavant(at)mchsi.com>
Subject: RV-List: The Van's Aircraft Company motto
>
> Hello RVators,
> Although I have been reading the list for 6 years now, I just recently
> ordered my RV-7A empennage kit. My shop has been ready and waiting for
this
> moment for a long time and you folks have helped me get it right. I
really
> appreciate this list and all of its benefits and I'm sure to post many
> questions in the future. Well, here's my first question:
>
> Have you been pleased with the Order Dept. at Van's?
>
> I really do regret starting my posting with gripes, but I had always
> envisioned Van's Aircraft being a big efficient company, with lots of
> helpful people. Recently, I emailed my order form for the Empennage Kit
and
> called for a follow-up to ensure the order form attachment was legible. I
> talked with a young lady who gave me a bunch of hem-haws about emailing
> "kit" orders(keep in mind I'm potentially spending over $20k). Later that
> day, a friendly voice told me that email orders are only checked in the
> morning, since it was Friday, my order would be looked at on Monday
morning.
> This morning(Tues.) there was no email receipt of an order or any
> information regarding my order, so, today I followed up with yet another
> call to ensure my order was processed, and found out it had been submited.
> It is in crating. I wanted to know the order number, and how I could
track
> the order in the future. The attitude over the phone suggested that I was
> too demanding in my request, and that she didn't know when the kit would
be
> shipped or what the tracking number was. Then I was told to call back in
a
> couple of days to find out how to track my $1800 order. That's right,
I've
> got to call them back.
>
> Folks, I've ordered $5 items from the internet and was flooded with email
> information on amount charged, shipping dates, tracking numbers, and long
> thoughtful comments thanking me for my FIVE DOLLAR business. Now I spend
> $1800 and potentially another $15k and I can't even find out when/if my
> shippment is going out. Is this the Van's Aircraft way of doing business?
> Please help a very patient man to understand what's happening at a
> previously respected company. I had my heart set on a RV for years, I was
> very excited to place my first order and this is a disheartening way to
> start the long building process.
>
> Fellow Aviator and Future RVer,
>
> Blake Avant
> Navarre, FL
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dane Sheahen" <dane(at)mutualace.com> |
| Subject: | Alaska RV Trip anyone planing one? |
I just wondering if anyone is planning an Alaska RV trip this summer ?
I would like to go with more experienced pilots than myself. Possibly
someone that has done the trip before.
The tallest thing we fly over here in the midwest is corn and cell phone
antennas.
If anyone is interested please email on list or direct to me
dane(at)mutualace.com
Dane
RV8a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Will & Lynda Allen" <linenwool(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | The Van's Aircraft Company motto |
I thought all big orders had to be faxed? That's how I've always done it
and haven't had any problems, though I'm only 3-4 hours drive away so I've
picked up my big orders and only dealt with shipping on small replacement
parts. When I ordered my wings, they sent me a confirmation in the mail that
gave me the approximate date that they would be ready and what the procedure
would be for shipping or picking them up. The small stuff that's been
shipped has been without incident but I don't think I asked for a tracking
number.
Maybe you just caught them at a bad time, with all the snow and ice the
northwest got last week they may be a bit behind. I'm sure you'll enjoy your
future encounters with them though!
-Will Allen
North Bend, Wa.
RV8 Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of BLAKE
Subject: RV-List: The Van's Aircraft Company motto
Hello RVators,
Although I have been reading the list for 6 years now, I just recently
ordered my RV-7A empennage kit. My shop has been ready and waiting for this
moment for a long time and you folks have helped me get it right. I really
appreciate this list and all of its benefits and I'm sure to post many
questions in the future. Well, here's my first question:
Have you been pleased with the Order Dept. at Van's?
I really do regret starting my posting with gripes, but I had always
envisioned Van's Aircraft being a big efficient company, with lots of
helpful people. Recently, I emailed my order form for the Empennage Kit and
called for a follow-up to ensure the order form attachment was legible. I
talked with a young lady who gave me a bunch of hem-haws about emailing
"kit" orders(keep in mind I'm potentially spending over $20k). Later that
day, a friendly voice told me that email orders are only checked in the
morning, since it was Friday, my order would be looked at on Monday morning.
This morning(Tues.) there was no email receipt of an order or any
information regarding my order, so, today I followed up with yet another
call to ensure my order was processed, and found out it had been submited.
It is in crating. I wanted to know the order number, and how I could track
the order in the future. The attitude over the phone suggested that I was
too demanding in my request, and that she didn't know when the kit would be
shipped or what the tracking number was. Then I was told to call back in a
couple of days to find out how to track my $1800 order. That's right, I've
got to call them back.
Folks, I've ordered $5 items from the internet and was flooded with email
information on amount charged, shipping dates, tracking numbers, and long
thoughtful comments thanking me for my FIVE DOLLAR business. Now I spend
$1800 and potentially another $15k and I can't even find out when/if my
shippment is going out. Is this the Van's Aircraft way of doing business?
Please help a very patient man to understand what's happening at a
previously respected company. I had my heart set on a RV for years, I was
very excited to place my first order and this is a disheartening way to
start the long building process.
Fellow Aviator and Future RVer,
Blake Avant
Navarre, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Rion Bourgeois" <rion(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The Van's Aircraft Company motto |
Blake: Man, are you eager to get that kit! In answer to your question,
my experience with Van's shipping department, as well as the rest of the
company, has been very positive. IMHO, your expectations of Van's shipping
department are way too high, and aimed in the wrong direction. If Van's AC
spent the kind of time you apparently expect to babysit your order, they
would either have to raise the price of kits, or divert manpower from
responding to more important questions, like building questions. Your order
has been submitted, and is in line for shipment, along with everybody else's
order. Researching exactly where in that line your order might be would
slow down the next guys order. Lighten up, buddy. This is a long process,
and you are going to be facing a lot of frustration if you expect the same
type of perfection from yourself as you apparently do from the folks at
Van's. If the ordering process frustrates you this much, what are you going
to do when you ruin your elevator skin because the rivet gun was set too
high (been there, done that) or rivet a bucking bar inside the horizontal
stabilizer (been there, done that too)? As you move along in this journey,
you will find that the folks at Van's are very cooperative and helpful, and
will ease your passage if you let them. They have been doing this a long
time, and are very good at devoting their energy where it will be most
useful to their customers instead of towards a lot of fluff. I could spend
an hour reciting the many times they have helped me out, but would prefer to
spend that time more productively. While you are waiting for your kit to
arrive, here is something to keep you busy. What primer do you intend to
use, and why? Yours truly, Rion Bourgeois
----- Original Message -----
From: "BLAKE" <bavant(at)mchsi.com>
Subject: RV-List: The Van's Aircraft Company motto
>
> Hello RVators,
> Although I have been reading the list for 6 years now, I just recently
> ordered my RV-7A empennage kit. My shop has been ready and waiting for
this
> moment for a long time and you folks have helped me get it right. I
really
> appreciate this list and all of its benefits and I'm sure to post many
> questions in the future. Well, here's my first question:
>
> Have you been pleased with the Order Dept. at Van's?
>
> I really do regret starting my posting with gripes, but I had always
> envisioned Van's Aircraft being a big efficient company, with lots of
> helpful people. Recently, I emailed my order form for the Empennage Kit
and
> called for a follow-up to ensure the order form attachment was legible. I
> talked with a young lady who gave me a bunch of hem-haws about emailing
> "kit" orders(keep in mind I'm potentially spending over $20k). Later that
> day, a friendly voice told me that email orders are only checked in the
> morning, since it was Friday, my order would be looked at on Monday
morning.
> This morning(Tues.) there was no email receipt of an order or any
> information regarding my order, so, today I followed up with yet another
> call to ensure my order was processed, and found out it had been submited.
> It is in crating. I wanted to know the order number, and how I could
track
> the order in the future. The attitude over the phone suggested that I was
> too demanding in my request, and that she didn't know when the kit would
be
> shipped or what the tracking number was. Then I was told to call back in
a
> couple of days to find out how to track my $1800 order. That's right,
I've
> got to call them back.
>
> Folks, I've ordered $5 items from the internet and was flooded with email
> information on amount charged, shipping dates, tracking numbers, and long
> thoughtful comments thanking me for my FIVE DOLLAR business. Now I spend
> $1800 and potentially another $15k and I can't even find out when/if my
> shippment is going out. Is this the Van's Aircraft way of doing business?
> Please help a very patient man to understand what's happening at a
> previously respected company. I had my heart set on a RV for years, I was
> very excited to place my first order and this is a disheartening way to
> start the long building process.
>
> Fellow Aviator and Future RVer,
>
> Blake Avant
> Navarre, FL
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The Van's Aircraft Company motto |
I just got off the phone with Van's regarding some stuff I shipped back just
before Christmas. I was returning some parts in exchange for other ones. I
had not heard back and called yesterday. I learned they were doing inventory
so nothing was being processed and they had a major snow storm that kept
some employees home.
Today I received a call from Van's to confirm the part I had listed was
actually what I wanted. (Fuel injected fuel valve). She just wanted to make
sure because it is not a frequently ordered part.
I have found their service very good. Possibly a little slow but otherwise
fine. With the volume of orders their is occasionally going to be a mistake.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
>
> Hello RVators,
> Although I have been reading the list for 6 years now, I just recently
> ordered my RV-7A empennage kit. My shop has been ready and waiting for
this
> moment for a long time and you folks have helped me get it right. I
really
> appreciate this list and all of its benefits and I'm sure to post many
> questions in the future. Well, here's my first question:
>
> Have you been pleased with the Order Dept. at Van's?
>
> I really do regret starting my posting with gripes, but I had always
> envisioned Van's Aircraft being a big efficient company, with lots of
> helpful people.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry2DT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RE: The Van's Aircraft Company motto |
Hi Blake...
My partner and I have an RV6a hangared 1/4 mi. from Van's and I'm building
one also, so have dealt with Van's for 3 years now, and I see them frequently.
Without a doubt, one of the classiest organizations ever. Sure, sometimes they
look a little overloaded and frazzled, but that's because they are usually
busting their buns helping us builders out in one way or another. Once in a blue
moon you'll catch someone with a bit of "attitude", but it is rare. Contrary
to what you might think, they are def not a large, impersonal company. I think
they have maybe 50 employees total. It's amazing they produce what they do
with that few people.
Congratulations on your decision to build one of the best aircraft in the
world, and do not worry, Van's will take great care of you, just might require
a
bit of patience once in awhile. They are human....I think. :)
Jerry Cochran
<>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Will & Lynda Allen" <linenwool(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Alaska RV Trip anyone planing one? |
Let's see, I'm on my wings now...... hmmmm don't think I can finish by this
summer..... Darn, I love Alaska :-) If you go, you'd better take lots of
pictures and post them. A return trip to AK, my birthplace, will be
mandatory when I do eventually finish my airplane though!
-Will Allen
North bend, Wa.
RV8 wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dane Sheahen
Subject: RV-List: Alaska RV Trip anyone planing one?
I just wondering if anyone is planning an Alaska RV trip this summer ?
I would like to go with more experienced pilots than myself. Possibly
someone that has done the trip before.
The tallest thing we fly over here in the midwest is corn and cell phone
antennas.
If anyone is interested please email on list or direct to me
dane(at)mutualace.com
Dane
RV8a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The Van's Aircraft Company motto |
Blake,
You've spent untold weeks, maybe years of dreaming and planning for this day.
Once you finally and officially place the order for the first component kit, the
wait at can at times seem unbearable. I felt that way through 3 subkit orders
and only started calming down by the finish kit. Let me tell you something
about Van's support. I can't count how many times I've scrapped parts for one
reason or another but this incident really stands out. I botched an aileron
gap fairing and reordered a new one. When the replacement part finally arrived,
my heart sank. The packaging was obviously damaged and sure enough, the gap
fairing was dented. I promptly called Van's. The nice lady on the other end
said UPS should know better than to leave a visibly damaged package at my door.
She said not to worry about it, there was no need to return the damaged part,
Van's would send out another that very day. Now here's the kicker. This happened
on a Friday afternoon and the replacement par
t showed
up at my door on SATURDAY morning at 10 A.M. Van's is in Oregon, I am in St.
Louis. The overnight shipping charge for that $24.87 gap fairing was nearly $100.
All I was out was a little extra time, a small measure of pride, and the
original $24.87.
Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jack eckdahl" <eckdahl(at)dellmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The Van's Aircraft Company motto |
Blake: I am surprised to hear that you had these problems. I can assure you that
your opinion will change. Most of my major component orders were acknowledged
by postal service mail with kit number and order number, payment amt., balance,
etc. Anytime that I called to get clarification or status they have always
been helpful. They keep up with credits good also. I actually had a couple
credits. I left the credits on the books and used them later (and more).
Individual parts, hardware, electrical, etc. from their online catalog are acknowledged
immediately by email with order number for tracking. Based on my experience
over the past two years, I am pretty sure that you will find this to
be an exception to their usual fine service. Jack RV9A #90508(finishing)
----- Original Message -----
From: "BLAKE" <bavant(at)mchsi.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 12:09:20 -0600
Subject: RV-List: The Van's Aircraft Company motto
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The Van's Aircraft Company motto |
>
>Have you been pleased with the Order Dept. at Van's?
>
>Please help a very patient man to understand what's happening at a
>previously respected company.
Yes times 10 to the sixth!
When Van's becomes a typical American big business they will automatically
send gobs of email gibberish. Shipping will be improved and prices will be
much higher.
Patience, man.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com> |
| Subject: | The Van's Aircraft Company motto |
One thing I didn't recall seeing in the replies (I may have missed it
because I only skimmed): Van's is *not* a big company. Their volume is
not large, compared to the internet companies who deal in small items;
most of their employees are involved in production. They also operate
on a small margin in order to keep costs down. That means that they do
not have the budget for a sophisticated, internet-based order tracking
system. Their sales and order processing system is fairly simple but
they have managed to send me thousands of parts in 3 subkits with only a
few backordered items and one missing part to date. I don't know if the
process is the same today, but when you place your first order you send
them a legal document and they then assign you a builder's number.
Armed with that, they can pretty much tell you what's going on, but they
can only estimate shipping dates and tracking info is not available
until the shipping company has the shipment.
By the way, that internet company that fawned over your $5 order did so
through automation, usually with messages filled with advertising to get
more of your business. Wait until you have a real problem that needs
personal attention. On the other hand, Van's is not as efficient but
you can call them for building advice or parts replacement and talk to a
real person. If you prefer the computer system, then the kit companies
are not going to be for you; even Aircraft Spruce does not have that
slick an online ordering system.
Patrick Kelley
RV-6A - gathering dust while I struggle with college :(
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Alaska RV Trip anyone planing one? |
Dane:
Took the RV to Alaska 2.5 years ago. Was planning on going back this year
but the Bahamas are calling.
Been accross the USA 8 times and as far north as Ft Yukon Alaska (north of
the Arctic Circle) since first flight September 1997. Been to the highest
and the lowest airports in North America.
Sorry I do not have a lot written on the trip but could answer specific
questions off list. Jerry VanGuvensen was in Alaska this summer with
several other RVs.
Start your research on the AOPA web site. They have most of the info that
you will need.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,426 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Dane Sheahen" <dane(at)mutualace.com>
Subject: RV-List: Alaska RV Trip anyone planing one?
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 13:00:29 -0600
I just wondering if anyone is planning an Alaska RV trip this summer ?
I would like to go with more experienced pilots than myself. Possibly
someone that has done the trip before.
The tallest thing we fly over here in the midwest is corn and cell phone
antennas.
If anyone is interested please email on list or direct to me
dane(at)mutualace.com
Dane
RV8a
Find out everything you need to know about Las Vegas here for that getaway.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: PC680 Battery |
>
>The dual-mode charger I'm using is the Battery Tender Jr. (paid $19.95 at
>Arizona MotorSports a year or two ago). It comes with a few different
>pluggable ends that use a connector to hook up to the charger. It has the
>two ring terminal end, which I currently have connected to the battery
>terminals (until I'm ready to fly this thing). It also has a pluggable end
>with two medium-sized alligator clips.
Looking at the specs, this seems to be a pretty good charger. It
bulk charges to 14.4 volts, waits for the current to taper off, then
switches over to a 13.2 volt float charge.
It is a good idea to keep the battery topped up like this. If you
plan a long absence, it is smarter to disconnect the battery, and then hook
up the charger noted above occasionally instead of continuously. Perhaps
for a few days every other month.
Leaving the battery on continuous float causes "grid corrosion"
and also dries out the battery. If you MUST choose, it is better to leave
the battery on float than it is to let it get discharged. Thus, if you are
not going to disconnect the battery, and you plan to leave it completely
unattended for many months, it is better to leave it on float than to let
it go dead.
Ideally, for the PC680 battery, the bulk charge voltage should go
a bit closer to 15 volts.
If you are having trouble with an AGM battery, (like the PC680)
take it out of the airplane, put it on a power supply, and bring it up to
14.8 volts. Then wait for the current to drop below an amp. At that time,
push an amp though the battery (with no limit on voltage) for an hour. This
should kill it or cure it. :
) You might have to do this more than once.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Gray <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Hey Blake, have a cold one:-) |
> "sit back and relax", "chill out", "have a cold one"
This will be the last chance before you fly your RV, enjoy the delay.
Doug
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The Van's Aircraft Company motto |
I concur with Brian's comments,
I am sorry to hear that your first experience with Van's ordering system is
fraught with some misunderstanding and miscommunication.
They use a customer number system. They will apply one to your first 'kit'
order that will act as their in house "tracking number". When phoning,
faxing, mailing or emailing, them quoting that number for them to enter into
their computer system will get them directly access to your account.
If you do as yet not have knowledge of your customer number ask for it in
your next communication with them. for example mine, established in 1996 is
a 5 digit number starting with 24***.
Are they into the six digits yet! {[;-)!?
For their handling of my needs they get top marks, the five *****! star
award. The same goes for their service since then.
I ordered the whole RV6-a aircraft kit start to finish at once. It took me
over a week to unpack and do the inventory. They back ordered one heat
control cable (an accessory part #) and had the rest of the order complete
down to the last rivet!! Somehow I lost track of two sheet metal bits during
building. They sent the parts by mail without question. I found the missing
pieces a year later under a shelf. (oops) (:-o !
Most often they make me feel like family when I phone them for what ever
reason.
Onward and upward,
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: The Van's Aircraft Company motto
>
>
>
>
> Is this the Van's Aircraft way of doing business?
> >Please help a very patient man to understand what's happening at a
> >previously respected company. I had my heart set on a RV for years, I
was
> >very excited to place my first order and this is a disheartening way to
> >start the long building process.
> >
> >Fellow Aviator and Future RVer,
> >
> >Blake Avant
> >Navarre, FL
>
>
> Blake,
>
> I've been dealing with Van's for seven years now and have very few
> complaints. If you ordered within the past couple of weeks, they have
been
> dealing with not only annual inventory but wicked, nasty weather that
> snarled all kinds of freight carriers. Generally, I leave them alone,
place
> my orders as they want them placed, and only inquire if a week has gone by
> with nothing from the UPS man.
>
> There are also days when they're up to their collective necks in
alligators,
> as in any business, when many customers are asking very few employees for
> everything including time of day and how's the weather.
>
> Give 'em some room to breathe, and I guarantee you WILL be impressed with
> the products you receive from them. I'm starting my second kit now
(RV10),
> which will cost a LOT more than my RV8 did. I wouldn't do that with a
> company that continually boogered up orders or treated me poorly.
>
> Welcome to the RV fraternity!
>
> Brian Denk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alaska RV Trip anyone planing one? |
I flew the B-25 from Anchorage to Minneapolis and we did all of it but one
leg below 5500 feet. We did that leg at 10,500 Just west of Ft Nelson.
Follow the highway and it is a pretty easy trip. 10000 feet will clear
nearly all the surrounding terrain and you could do it much lower if you
like flying down in the valleys.
Take your time, don't push the WX. Stop and see the sites! Especially
Whitehorse!! We were WXed in there for two days. If you want a Rocky side
trip, fly down to Skagway from Whitehorse. But that would be a REALLY rocky
trip! We rented a car and drove down. About 90 miles of the most beautiful
country I have ever seen. It would be a magnificent flight, but NO options.
Skagway is cool, 100 years ago it was whorehouses, Miners, and bars, now it
is whorehouse museums, tourists and bars.
I surveyed the route as I flew with an eye towards doing it in a single. But
for crossing the divide West of Fort Nelson, there is was almost always a
good option in a small airplane if the fire went out.
Arctic Thunder is the Elmendorf Airshow June, 26 & 27. It is one of the
best shows I have ever seen and I have been to some airshows. The WX is
good then and we will be there again with our B-25 "Miss Mitchell."
I would HIGHLY recommend the trip! My menu in Alaska was Halibut and Beer!
Both are exceptional!
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
>
>
> I just wondering if anyone is planning an Alaska RV trip this summer ?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: The Van's Aircraft Company motto |
Not only do I concur woth both Jim and Brian's messages, but can add some
insight into the situation. All of the e-businesses we deal with that flood
us with those reassuring e-mails were built around software designed to
integrate seamlessly with e-mail etc. Van's system runs on (I believe)
MAS90, a rather old GL and inventory system that they have adapted to make
work with e-mail orders etc. It requires quite a bit of manual intervention
and was never made to do what they are now doing with it. The bottom line is
that Van has chosen to not spend $300-500k on a new software system just to
get better online integration.
Believe me, they take customer service quite seriously and as numerous
others have pointed out, you will come to appreciate this.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 366 hrs
Home Wing VAF
>
> I concur with Brian's comments,
>
> I am sorry to hear that your first experience with Van's ordering system
is
> fraught with some misunderstanding and miscommunication.
>
> They use a customer number system. They will apply one to your first 'kit'
> order that will act as their in house "tracking number". When phoning,
> faxing, mailing or emailing, them quoting that number for them to enter
into
> their computer system will get them directly access to your account.
> If you do as yet not have knowledge of your customer number ask for it in
> your next communication with them. for example mine, established in 1996
is
> a 5 digit number starting with 24***.
> Are they into the six digits yet! {[;-)!?
>
> For their handling of my needs they get top marks, the five *****! star
> award. The same goes for their service since then.
> I ordered the whole RV6-a aircraft kit start to finish at once. It took me
> over a week to unpack and do the inventory. They back ordered one heat
> control cable (an accessory part #) and had the rest of the order complete
> down to the last rivet!! Somehow I lost track of two sheet metal bits
during
> building. They sent the parts by mail without question. I found the
missing
> pieces a year later under a shelf. (oops) (:-o !
> Most often they make me feel like family when I phone them for what ever
> reason.
>
> Onward and upward,
>
> Jim in Kelowna
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV-List: The Van's Aircraft Company motto
>
>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Is this the Van's Aircraft way of doing business?
> > >Please help a very patient man to understand what's happening at a
> > >previously respected company. I had my heart set on a RV for years, I
> was
> > >very excited to place my first order and this is a disheartening way to
> > >start the long building process.
> > >
> > >Fellow Aviator and Future RVer,
> > >
> > >Blake Avant
> > >Navarre, FL
> >
> >
> > Blake,
> >
> > I've been dealing with Van's for seven years now and have very few
> > complaints. If you ordered within the past couple of weeks, they have
> been
> > dealing with not only annual inventory but wicked, nasty weather that
> > snarled all kinds of freight carriers. Generally, I leave them alone,
> place
> > my orders as they want them placed, and only inquire if a week has gone
by
> > with nothing from the UPS man.
> >
> > There are also days when they're up to their collective necks in
> alligators,
> > as in any business, when many customers are asking very few employees
for
> > everything including time of day and how's the weather.
> >
> > Give 'em some room to breathe, and I guarantee you WILL be impressed
with
> > the products you receive from them. I'm starting my second kit now
> (RV10),
> > which will cost a LOT more than my RV8 did. I wouldn't do that with a
> > company that continually boogered up orders or treated me poorly.
> >
> > Welcome to the RV fraternity!
> >
> > Brian Denk
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
>
>The problem with ELTs even though they are using Russian Satellites to
>monitor is that it takes TWO passes to determine location and cut down on
>false alerts. ELT alerts can be triggered by interference sources and fewer
>than 2 in 1000 ELT alerts and 2 in 100 composite alerts are actual distress.
>A PLB takes but one pass as it sends info back when the satellite
>interrogates it making the location and ID on first pass and they have an
>accuracy of about 1 in 12 . PLB is also much more powerful and location is
>much more accurate. The old ELT will be phased out before the end of this
>decade (2009).
>
>The ill-conceived knee-jerk ELT program was mandated by our Congress after a
>plane could not be found went down carrying a Congressman in Alaska. Typical
>FED reaction, pass a law to fix a problem without proper thought.
>
>Cy Galley
>Editor, EAA Safety Programs
>cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
A lot of people seem to think ELTs are a complete waste of time, but I
wonder how many of them have looked at any data. Certainly there are a
distressing number of crashes where the ELT does not trigger for whatever
reason. But there are also quite a few cases where the ELT is instrumental
in saving lives.
I took a look at the 2002 data from the SARSAT system, as I was
curious. There are a lot of events listed, and conventional ELTs are only
some of the data (there are a lot of PLB entries). But, worldwide, I
counted 20 aviation crashes where it looked like the presence of the ELT
probably made a significant difference in saving 46 lives. Sure, that's
only 46 lives, but I suspect those 46 people are glad the ELT was there.
http://www.cospas-sarsat.org/download/R7AnnexC.pdf
http://www.cospas-sarsat.org/
If you fly in remote areas it is far better to have an ELT than to have
nothing at all. But, don't get me started on the requirements for the antenna.
Kevin Horton
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)QCBC.ORG> |
I have no quarrel with using an ELT. Unfortunately, the PLB is so much
superior in every way that it is sad that if you want this better
protection, you have to have both. The FAA is dragging its heels.
In medicine they talk about the "golden hour" where your chances of survival
are good. With an ELT it takes 2 to 4 hours to determine whether there even
is an accident and to send out help. What do you think happens to your
chances of survival?
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Horton" <khorton01(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: ELTs
>
>
> >
> >The problem with ELTs even though they are using Russian Satellites to
> >monitor is that it takes TWO passes to determine location and cut down on
> >false alerts. ELT alerts can be triggered by interference sources and
fewer
> >than 2 in 1000 ELT alerts and 2 in 100 composite alerts are actual
distress.
> >A PLB takes but one pass as it sends info back when the satellite
> >interrogates it making the location and ID on first pass and they have an
> >accuracy of about 1 in 12 . PLB is also much more powerful and location
is
> >much more accurate. The old ELT will be phased out before the end of this
> >decade (2009).
> >
> >The ill-conceived knee-jerk ELT program was mandated by our Congress
after a
> >plane could not be found went down carrying a Congressman in Alaska.
Typical
> >FED reaction, pass a law to fix a problem without proper thought.
> >
> >Cy Galley
> >Editor, EAA Safety Programs
> >cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
>
>
> A lot of people seem to think ELTs are a complete waste of time, but I
> wonder how many of them have looked at any data. Certainly there are a
> distressing number of crashes where the ELT does not trigger for whatever
> reason. But there are also quite a few cases where the ELT is
instrumental
> in saving lives.
>
> I took a look at the 2002 data from the SARSAT system, as I was
> curious. There are a lot of events listed, and conventional ELTs are only
> some of the data (there are a lot of PLB entries). But, worldwide, I
> counted 20 aviation crashes where it looked like the presence of the ELT
> probably made a significant difference in saving 46 lives. Sure, that's
> only 46 lives, but I suspect those 46 people are glad the ELT was there.
>
> http://www.cospas-sarsat.org/download/R7AnnexC.pdf
> http://www.cospas-sarsat.org/
>
> If you fly in remote areas it is far better to have an ELT than to have
> nothing at all. But, don't get me started on the requirements for the
antenna.
>
> Kevin Horton
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
| Subject: | The Van's Aircraft Company motto |
Yea, leave em alone. I'm still waiting for $15 worth of side baggage
compartment ribs to get here. You'd think that after 7 years of
ordering parts off and on they'd get it here faster so I can screw em up
quicker.
Mike Nellis
RV-6 Skinning Fuselage N699BM
1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K
http://bmnellis.com
***
*** I was just on the Vans web site yesterday and they said
*** weather was very bad there. Also there are 800 orders
*** backlogged that need to be packed and shipped. All this
*** mainly due to weather and the 1 week it took to do inventory.
***
***
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Looking for Mark Bednarz |
Does anyone on list know RV builder Mark Bednarz of Grapeland, Texas? If so, please
let me know how to contact him off list.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8A instrument panel
Boca Raton, Fl.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Erdmann's" <erdmannb(at)execpc.com> |
I'm having trouble returning a message to Terry Dilley. An RV7A builder whom I
hope reads this list. Thanks, Abby Flightline Interiors
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vic Jacko" <vicwj(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: The Van's Aircraft Company motto |
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jerry2DT(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: RE: The Van's Aircraft Company motto
>
> Hi Blake...
>
> My partner and I have an RV6a hangared 1/4 mi. from Van's and I'm building
> one also, so have dealt with Van's for 3 years now, and I see them
frequently.
> Without a doubt, one of the classiest organizations ever. Sure, sometimes
they
> look a little overloaded and frazzled, but that's because they are usually
> busting their buns helping us builders out in one way or another. Once in
a blue
> moon you'll catch someone with a bit of "attitude", but it is rare.
Contrary
> to what you might think, they are def not a large, impersonal company. I
think
> they have maybe 50 employees total. It's amazing they produce what they do
> with that few people.
>
> Congratulations on your decision to build one of the best aircraft in the
> world, and do not worry, Van's will take great care of you, just might
require a
> bit of patience once in awhile. They are human....I think. :)
>
> Jerry Cochran
>
> < information on amount charged, shipping dates, tracking numbers, and long
> thoughtful comments thanking me for my FIVE DOLLAR business. Now I spend
> $1800 and potentially another $15k and I can't even find out when/if my
> shippment is going out. Is this the Van's Aircraft way of doing business?
> Please help a very patient man to understand what's happening at a
> previously respected company. I had my heart set on a RV for years, I was
> very excited to place my first order and this is a disheartening way to
> start the long building process.
>
> Fellow Aviator and Future RVer,
>
> Blake Avant
> Navarre, FL>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Stratomaster MAG-1 compass |
Found nothing on this in the archives so......
Looking for reference info on use of the Statomaster MAG-1 magnetometer
compass in an RV. How will does it work? Where did you place the external sensor?
particularly in an RV6A with slider canopy? Does the 8 degree tilt on the panel
present a problem for panel mounting? Any other comments about this unit?
Dale Ensing
RV6A finishing forever
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Pedersen" <wayne(at)pedersentransport.com> |
Planning and acquiring the gizmos for my panel now. Basic VFR Dynon, Garmin
196 & IK2000. I have been leaning to get a Val INS422 Nav VOR, Glide slope
etc. and wondering what experiences there may be out there to help me decide
ya or nay. I do not plan to get my IFR ticket but would take enough IFR
training to be comfertable with getting out of unexpected soup.
Thanks
Wayne
RV7a
S.Alberta
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Brooks" <kenbrooks(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Gluing Drilled Canopy? |
Dear -listers,
I've just finished reading the article in the new SA about gluing on
one's canopy and have a question for y'all. I've already drilled the
sliding portion of the plexi to the canopy frame, but only with the #40
drill bit.
Am I committed to riveting the canopy, or could I glue it on and just use
the clecoes as "clamps" while the glue cures and then remove them?
Obviously, all the holes would have to be stress-relieved (smoothed) well,
but if the #40 holes in the plexi wouldn't give me problems later, I'd
really like to try the glue method for all the positive reasons spelled out
in the SA article. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.
Ken Brooks
Roscoe, IL
Like Vince H., procrastinating on the canopy.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <panamared2(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Grand Rapids EIS 4000 MAP sensor |
Mine is on the cockpit side of the firewall. No problems with cockpit
engine fires yet. I do have a Halon fire extingusher!
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
At 11:27 PM 1/12/04, you wrote:
>
>Grand Rapids recommends placing the MAP sensor in the cockpit because it
>uses a plastic case. I'm not going to because I've gone to a lot of
>effort and some $'s to protect the cockpit from engine fires. Placing the
>sensor in the cockpit means you would have to bring a manifold pressure
>hose through the firewall. Has anyone else had any good or bad experience
>with this sensor in the engine compartment.
>thanks,
>Rick Fogerson
>Boise, ID
>RV3 wiring
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com, vansairforce
I have added a page on my web site for Reno info...
http://www.vondane.com/reno2004/index.htm
-Bill VonDane
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: pc680 charging |
>
>I didn't see any mention of this in the recent thread on the PC680 where
>folks were getting all worked up over charging, etc.
>
>I got my battery today and I also have a battery tender jr charger for it
>but I interestingly read that under the Winter Storage instructions it says
>"does not lose its charged enery during cold storage temperatures, so there
>is no need to trickle or float charge during winter months." Further is
>states can be stored for 2 years or more and it can't freeze down to -40c.
Charge it before you store it. It may have been on the shelf for
many months.
AGM batteries typically lose about 2% of their charge each month.
In hot weather, this can be much greater, and in very cold weather, the
loss can be very tiny indeed. At 2% pre month, the battery will be down to
75% capacity in a year (if it started out 100% full.)
As the battery ages, its self discharge rate increases. An older
battery will go flat more quickly than a new battery.
Typically, airplane alternator charging systems are not
sophisticated enough to fully charge the battery. A 75% state of charge
would not be that unusual. Thus, after a year, the battery would be down to
50%.
If, however, you have the battery connected to an airplane or a
car, there are small loads that can draw it down, even when the airplane is
"off". Things like the clock and some electronics draw a few milliamps to
keep the memory alive. A 20 mA load will draw a 100% charged 16 amp-hr
PC-680 battery completely flat in a month.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry2DT(at)aol.com |
Listers...
Lyco Service Instruction #1435 deals with conversion of hollow crank engines
to fixed pitch and visa-versa. It appears the only way to get this important
doc from Lyco is to pay $199 for a CD with all the S.I.'s for 4 cyl on it. I
understand it also comes with new engines. Just wondering if anyone out there
has a copy they could share. Plenty of info out there on the subject, but I'd
just like to get my hands on the "official" document. Have to admit it's a bit
disappointing that Lycoming does not offer safety-related subjects such as this
either free or with a minimal charge. JM.02...
Jerry Cochran
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Remote preheater activation |
Some time ago there was a discussion about a way to remotely turn on a
pre-heater. Someone now sells a device that works with a cell phone or a
pager to do just that. If interested, have a look at it at
http://goflying.cc/. There is a short article about it in GA (General
Aviation) magazine that came today. At $369, it's not cheap but it looks
like it would work.
Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Duckett <perfeng(at)3rivers.net> |
Well Blake,
I guess I will chime in my .02 cents too.
First, as you have realized those of us that refer to ourselves as
RVer's really are a passionate group of builders. Like most, my -7A is
the not the first ship that I have build that was designed by Van's, and
probably won't be the last. As an RVer I am very defensive when it comes
to someone questioning the integrity of the supplier of my passion.
As others have said, and I will echo, Van's Aircraft Company supplys a
remarkably well designed and builder friendly product and backs it with
excellent customer support. Like many others I have been spoiled because
I live within a days drive (4.5 hours flight time in an RV) from the
facilities in Aurora. When you compare ACS with van's IMHO you are
trying to compare Home Depot to your neighborhood hardware store.
In a lot of respects it's the same. At Home Depot you get what they got
without any real personalized service but hey, they got lots of stuff
and lots of folks working there that really don't have a clue about the
product in question or it's usage. Van's it like the neighborhood
store. Personalized and often specialized to the needs of it's
customers. If they don't have it, they will try and get it for you as
well as answer any questions you might have about the product or what
may be better to perform the task you have at hand.
In short, Van's has a very small staff of dedicated people ( compared to
the amount of product they turn out) and generally they do a bang up job
meeting the needs of it's customers ( especially when those of us who
are somewhat close by want to see whats new in the Skunk Works every
time we get out to Mecca.) In operational terms it's a small business.
If Van's were to gear and tool up like some others have in the past your
next RV will be six figures not the 20 K you'll pay now.
This isn't to flame you or to make you disheartened. As a builder you
will discover that although it may be frustrating at times, these other
builders as well as Van's staff are the greatest people you will ever meet.
There are other RVer's in you area. Once they know of you and your ship
you may have more advise and help than you really need.
Take a deep breath, and relax while you can. When you get your tail
feathers it will be nothing but late nights of reading plans and
riveting alcad and wishing you could win the lottery because that job
you have is getting in the way of building your bird.
Welcome to the world that is building and flying your own craft.
Especially the joy of it being an RV!
Jim D. RV-7A N708JD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Isler" <jlisler(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | RV-4 Cowling Oil Door |
What are the diamentions of the oil door for an RV-4 cowling? I have the old
polyester cowl and the directions say the door layout is molded into the
cowl. If it was, I have sanded it off. If anyone can tell me have far
forward of the firewall it starts would be most helpful also.
Jerry Isler
RV-4 1070
Donalsonville, GA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Daniels <jwdanie(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lyco S.I. 1435 |
On Jan 14, 2004, at 3:54 PM, Jerry2DT(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Listers...
>
> Lyco Service Instruction #1435 deals with conversion of hollow crank
> engines
> to fixed pitch and visa-versa. It appears the only way to get this
> important
> doc from Lyco is to pay $199 for a CD with all the S.I.'s for 4 cyl on
> it. I
> understand it also comes with new engines. Just wondering if anyone
> out there
> has a copy they could share.
Just whip open your finish kit instructions. It is right there just
after the engine identification pages (pages 11-20 to 11-22). At least
my '8 finish kit instructions had this.
Jim Daniels
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DANBERGERONHAM(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: The Van's Aircraft Company motto |
Blake:
I'm building an RV-7A (slow build) and have been dealing w/ Vans for a year.
I've finished the empennage and am well along on the wings. My dealings w/
Vans have been entirely positive. When I inventoried my wing kit back in Sept,
I discovered that a wing tip had been damaged in shipment. Vans was very
helpful in getting the shipper to make good on it. Since then I've probably
placed a half dozen orders w/ Vans for catalogue items, and have called maybe four
times for builders' advice. I've had nothing but great service. All
catalogue items were delivered in good order and all builders questions and concerns
deal with forthwith. Whenever I've dealt w/ anyone at Vans it has been obvious
that they're professional, they know what they're doing and they're customer
oriented. In short, they've been a great company to deal with.
Your may be expecting a bit too much from them. Back off a bit, relax, and
let the system do its thing. If every builder were to get minute by minute
reports on the status of orders, Vans wouldn't be able to do much of anything
else.
Good luck with your project. Most of all, enjoy it! It's a beautiful
process and, please believe me, you're dealing w/ a great company.
Dan Bergeron
Chicopee, MA
RV-7A
Building fuel tanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Remote preheater activation |
> Some time ago there was a discussion about a way to remotely
> turn on a pre-heater. Someone now sells a device that works
> with a cell phone or a pager to do just that. If interested,
> have a look at it at http://goflying.cc/. There is a short
> article about it in GA (General
> Aviation) magazine that came today. At $369, it's not cheap
> but it looks like it would work.
>
I discussed this last year, but it is worth repeating. I have an oil
sump heater as well as the cylinder bands, all from Reiff. I believe it
totals around 500 watts. I keep my plane in an unheated hangar in MN,
and it is about 25 minutes from home. My solution is to keep it plugged
in all the time; however, it is thermostatically controlled. I simply
put a line break thermostat on the end of an extension cord, such that
the thermostat goes right in the oil door. I have a complete cowl
insulating cover, and plug the inlets and exit areas with chunks of foam
rubber. I set the thermostat at 60 degrees F. I would guess that the
duty cycle is quite low, perhaps 25%. So, this equals about 3 kw-hr per
day, or about a quarter per day. Monthly grand total is something like
8 or 10 bucks. The whole winter probably doesn't cost $50, AND the best
part is I can go out and fly whenever I want.
When I had a phone dial up gizmo, I was never confident that I got it
activated, and I often forgot the night before.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 427 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie & Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | [Fwd: M.Aero: MII-bucking rivets made easy] |
Shamelessly stolen from the Mustang I/II list.
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: M.Aero: MII-bucking rivets made easy
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 11:34:17 -0500
From: marc tremblay <sxystretch(at)hotmail.com>
hey group,
at the end of last year, i showed my mustang project to a future builder, he
had a few questions, hes a riveter for bombardier, and he gave me this neat
little trick to make bucking rivets an almost foolproof process. most at
bomdardier now use this same method, after pushing rivet thought work, place
a 3/16 thick rubber grommet over the rivet (side to be bucked) then place
bucking bar, grommet will help keep the bucking bar square, and will also
help keep work tightly together. grommet only good for a few rivets, but
there dirt cheap, $3 to $4 per 100 available everywhere.
works great
marc
MII-2060 (plans built)
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Cowling Oil Door |
Jerry,
The original RV-4 oil door was way too big. It extended into the cheek area
making it hard to fit and fasten properly. It bulged badly in flight due to
the air pressure inside the cowl. Most people just made the door as small
as possible, just enough to get your hand in, kind of U-shaped with the
hinge on the top of the U. Just mark the spot from the inside when you have
the top cowl on and the bottom cowl off. If you do it this way, the door
will not extend into the cheek area making it a much simpler installation.
Good luck.
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 QB (Building)
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Isler" <jlisler(at)alltel.net>
Subject: RV-List: RV-4 Cowling Oil Door
>
> What are the diamentions of the oil door for an RV-4 cowling? I have the
old
> polyester cowl and the directions say the door layout is molded into the
> cowl. If it was, I have sanded it off. If anyone can tell me have far
> forward of the firewall it starts would be most helpful also.
>
>
> Jerry Isler
> RV-4 1070
> Donalsonville, GA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
| Subject: | [Fwd: M.Aero: MII-bucking rivets made easy] |
I've been using this method from the get go. I found it difficult to
find the right size gromet so I came up with this idea. I got a hold of
different size rubber tubing and, using sissors, cut the tubing to the
length that works the best. It certainly works well, especially in
those areas where the two pieces don't quite want to lay perfectly flat.
Mike Nellis
RV-6 Skinning Fuselage N699BM
1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K
http://bmnellis.com
*** -----Original Message-----
*** From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
*** [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
*** Charlie & Tupper England
*** Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2004 8:30 PM
*** To: RV list
*** Subject: RV-List: [Fwd: M.Aero: MII-bucking rivets made easy]
***
***
*** -->
***
*** Shamelessly stolen from the Mustang I/II list.
***
*** -------- Original Message --------
*** Subject: M.Aero: MII-bucking rivets made easy
*** Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 11:34:17 -0500
*** From: marc tremblay <sxystretch(at)hotmail.com>
*** To: mustangaero(at)yahoogroups.com
***
***
*** hey group,
***
*** at the end of last year, i showed my mustang project to a
*** future builder, he
*** had a few questions, hes a riveter for bombardier, and he
*** gave me this neat
*** little trick to make bucking rivets an almost foolproof
*** process. most at
*** bomdardier now use this same method, after pushing rivet
*** thought work, place
*** a 3/16 thick rubber grommet over the rivet (side to be
*** bucked) then place
*** bucking bar, grommet will help keep the bucking bar square,
*** and will also
*** help keep work tightly together. grommet only good for a
*** few rivets, but
*** there dirt cheap, $3 to $4 per 100 available everywhere.
***
*** works great
***
*** marc
*** MII-2060 (plans built)
***
***
*** To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
*** mailto:mustangaero-unsubscribe(at)yahoogroups.com
***
***
*** To visit your group on the web, go to:
*** http://groups.yahoo.com/group/mustangaero/
***
*** To unsubscribe
*** from this group, send an email to:
*** mustangaero-unsubscribe(at)yahoogroups.com
***
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
=
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry2DT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Lyco S.I. 1435 |
Thanks to all who replied, and a special mention to Jim Daniels who rightly
pointed out that the first 3 pages of SI 1435 are in the finish kit manual.
"When in doubt, read the instructions."...............
Jerry Cochran
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Pedersen" <wayne(at)pedersentransport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Remote preheater activation |
I have this "Remote Beeper Box" on my Piper Tomahawk and it works good. The
only draw back that I have is that if somebody dials the wrong phone number
your pager goes off and the heater kicks in for the predetermined time. I
put a car heater in the engine compartment and one in the cabin and it sure
takes the brrrrr out of winter start up.
Wayne
RV7a - fuse
S.ALberta
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Gluing Drilled Canopy? |
Ken,
We deburred our holes (had drilled them all) and used SemWeld (aka ProSeal)
to attach our canopy with a few (probably4 4-5 on each side) to hold the
shirt to the canopy and frame on the forward end and side. No issues in 200+
hours.
Good Building,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "Ken Brooks" <kenbrooks(at)charter.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Gluing Drilled Canopy?
>Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 10:25:37 -0600
>
>
>Dear -listers,
> I've just finished reading the article in the new SA about gluing on
>one's canopy and have a question for y'all. I've already drilled the
>sliding portion of the plexi to the canopy frame, but only with the #40
>drill bit.
>
>Am I committed to riveting the canopy, or could I glue it on and just use
>the clecoes as "clamps" while the glue cures and then remove them?
>
>Obviously, all the holes would have to be stress-relieved (smoothed) well,
>but if the #40 holes in the plexi wouldn't give me problems later, I'd
>really like to try the glue method for all the positive reasons spelled out
>in the SA article. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.
>
>Ken Brooks
>Roscoe, IL
>Like Vince H., procrastinating on the canopy.
>
>
Rethink your business approach for the new year with the helpful tips here.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
Hi all-
I understand satellite tracking of 121.5 is going away and that 406 is the
way of the future, but as I understand it most recent 121.5 ELT's also
transmit on 243, and that freq will be satellite supported indefinitely.
gm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
I don't know how long 243 MHz will be around, but are
there any 406 MHz ELTs on the market?
Mickey
>I understand satellite tracking of 121.5 is going away and that 406 is the
>way of the future, but as I understand it most recent 121.5 ELT's also
>transmit on 243, and that freq will be satellite supported indefinitely.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe & Jan Connell" <jconnell(at)rconnect.com> |
| Subject: | How to sell an unfinished homebuilt? |
Gentlemen:
A friend of mine is building a Fisher Classic, a wood and
fabric biplane with Rotax 582 engine. The plane is about
ready for covering and he has about $20K in it. Steve has
been diagnosed with ALS (Lou Gehrig's disease) and it is
progressing rapidly.
He has tried to sell it on E-bay and via a biplane Internet site.
We are also placing ads in Sport Aviation and Kitplanes.
There have been almost no nibbles as it is not main stream
like a Kitfox or an RV.
Would you reply to me off-line with any ideas you may have on
how to sell this project? I'm sorry this is off topic but I know
my fellow RV builders have great ideas...
Thanks.
Joe Connell, RV-9A, N95JJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)QCBC.ORG> |
> These are the advertiser e-mails that I sent the message below.
>
> ,
> ,
> ,
> ,
> ,
>
>
> I realize that advertising is very important to you and your company. The
> selection of your venue needs to project an honest reliable picture. This
> was not the case last night on your sponsored CBS Evening News. Their
lack
> of honesty and credibility reflects on you the advertiser. Their scare
> piece on General Aviation and Terrorists did nothing to enhance your
> company.
>
> Cy Galley
> Editor, EAA Safety Programs
> cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Cimino" <jcimino(at)echoes.net> |
| Subject: | GA Bashing on CBS (long) |
Here is the letter I sent to them, I hope they read it.
James Cimino
RV-8 SN 80039
100+ Hours
570-842-4057
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
I was very disappointed in your story regarding general aviation and the possible
terrorist activities that can arise from their airports. Comparing light aircraft
and general aviation to the threat posed by large commercial aircraft
is like comparing pee wee football to the NFL. Small aircraft are less likely
to be used by terrorists than the family car. You pointed out the antics of
one crazy pilot who stole a Cessna 172 and flew it into a building. If I am correct,
he was the only fatality, and even if I am not, do you really think that
any organized terrorist group would waste there time and resources to kill
one or two people. A Cessna 172 (which is a typical light general aviation aircraft)
has an empty weight of around 1400 lbs. and a gross weight of around 2300
lbs. That means that after you load a pilot and put fuel in the airplane
you can carry about 500 lbs. of cargo that must be properly loaded for the aircraft
to fly. I realize that 500 lbs. of explosives can do a lot of damage, but
I can put more than that in the trunk of my car. How about rental trucks and
semi-trailers...how much explosives do you think they can carry? Out of the
vehicles I mentioned, which one do you think is easier to get, carries more
payload, and is less likely to attract attention?
General Aviation has taken a large hit on their freedoms since 9-11 without any
good reason. The only people who would use small aircraft for this purpose are
the few solo nut cases out their. You will not find any example of an organized
threat from GA in history, because it is not practical. We are being told
that we need to send a message to terrorists that they cannot dampen the American
Spirit, and we should show this by going about our daily lives as normal
as we can. But thanks to Homeland Security and the News, we are not allowed
to do that. Many people have lost their jobs working in aviation because of
the fear that aviation is a target for terrorism. Companies have gone bankrupt
because the CIA couldn't do their job. Now we have Homeland Security putting
up alerts and stepping up security in order to justify their jobs. Then President
Bush tells us to live normal lives. Anybody with any brains at all knows
that you cannot totally protect soft targets and that terrorists what to make
big statements. General aviation aircraft will not be part of this and your
ridiculous consideration of it just shows that you love to keep the terrorist
threat on the front page. I do not mind being inconvenienced for security in
real threats, but I think we need to get real. What will you propose next?
Maybe we should not allow children to go out trick-or-treating? You know we
don't know who is behind that mask and what might be in their bag.
My own personal airplane can only carry about 250 lbs of cargo after I load myself
and fuel, I think the only damage that can be done is to the plane and pilot.
If I travel anywhere near large populations, my actions are watched on radar
and I cannot out-run even the slowest military airplane. How close are we
watching other forms of transportation? Just because my airplane has wings and
a tail, does not put in the same category as a commercial jet. You keep this
kind of reporting up, we will not even be able to drive our cars into large
cities or over bridges without being searched. I honestly do not right letters
like this normally, but I think general aviation and aviation in general has
been hurt enough. The next time I am contacted by life-flight to transport
a transplant patient or a heart for transplant, I hope no one will mind that because
of regulations I might not be able to get their in time if at all.
I honestly have not seen such a poorly thought out shot at GA, since Barbara Walters
stated that if John Kennedy JR. had been flying with more than one engine,
he might still be alive. As a flight instructor I have been contacted a number
of times by the FAA telling us to change the way we teach in order to offset
poor judgment made by one high profile individual. I am getting a little
tired of it. Look at the statistics! How many GA flights a year? How many GA
pilots and students? How many incidents? I am proud to be a pilot and never
wanted to be a commercial pilot. I fly for fun and relaxation...maybe you should
try it. Why don't you talk to AOPA and the EAA, maybe they can explain
it better than we can. Just because one person or a group of people use airplanes
for terrorist activities, doesn't mean that all of GA should suffer.
Hey, I just thought of something! Remote controlled airplanes can carry explosives
too, and some of them are getting real big. Go get them!!!
Jim Cimino
CFII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Sneed <jasons(at)fnbt.com> |
| Subject: | Keep water out of the cockpit |
>
> Can someone tell me how to stop rain water from leaking into my
> cockpit when the airplane is sitting outside? I tried silicone today
> and it slowed the water but did not stop it from coming in. Also, if I
> keep adding silicone the darn slider will not shut and lock. There has
> to be a better fix. I have a cover but I still get water with the
> cover on.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jason Sneed
> 850-598-3063
>
> See ya in Lakeland this weekend!
Jason Sneed
Commercial Lending Officer
First National Bank and Trust
850-796-2000 Ext:2341
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "D Ford" <dford(at)michweb.net> |
| Subject: | OATs & overhauled engine |
I am ready for my first flight in my RV but have hesitation due to OAT and breaking
in my overhauled engine. Is there any reason that the CHTs would be too
low to break in the rings? This weekend shoud be 15 to 25 degF, currently it's
below 10 deg. Someone told me to wait until it's above 30 deg. Looking for
more experience here...
Dave Ford
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Keep water out of the cockpit |
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
Jason, the proper way to stop the water, is to move it to Southern
California.
That will do it.
Cecil
> >
> > Can someone tell me how to stop rain water from leaking into my
> > cockpit when the airplane is sitting outside? I tried silicone
> today
> > and it slowed the water but did not stop it from coming in. Also,
> if I
> > keep adding silicone the darn slider will not shut and lock. There
> has
> > to be a better fix. I have a cover but I still get water with the
> > cover on.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Jason Sneed
> > 850-598-3063
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Sneed <jasons(at)fnbt.com> |
| Subject: | correction to leak problem (RV-6 Slider) |
>
>>
>> Can someone tell me how to stop rain water from leaking into my
>> cockpit when the airplane is sitting outside? I tried silicone today
>> and it slowed the water but did not stop it from coming in. Also, if
>> I keep adding silicone the darn slider will not shut and lock. There
>> has to be a better fix. (RV-6 slider... sorry)
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Jason Sneed
>> 850-598-3063
>>
>> See ya in Lakeland this weekend!
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Walker" <ron(at)walker.net> |
| Subject: | More MicroAir 760 |
I wired up my intercom -an ACS-400 the same as a PS Eng, PM501 - with my MicroAir
760 today. The mike/earphone pieces are wired in to the intercom first with
the intercom then wired in to the 760. The issue is the 760 diagram indicates
that the MIKE ground needs to be connected specifically to pin 2 of its input.
I don't think the solution is to wire the "hot" line of the mike to the intercom
and ground to the 760. I fired it up leaving pin 2 on the 760 open, and
it did work, but there was quite a background hum as expected. Has anyone figured
this one out ?
Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Marvel carb rebuild kit |
Hi List-
After lots of archive browsing, I couldn't find any information on where to
purchase a rebuild kit for a Marvel Schebler carb- my carb needs a new float
needle and gasket. Will spend a few hours staring at the yellow pages
(Trade-a-flame) tomorrow, but it y'all got any useful suggestions, I'd appreciate
it!!
Ready to schedule DAR if it weren't for this #@*&%$@leaking carb!!!!
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark - Engine ran yesterday after a quarter-century- woohooo!!!!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Keep water out of the cockpit |
| From: | Patty & Dan Krueger <pndkrueg(at)mchsi.com> |
O
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Compton" <thecomptons(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vans shipping |
> Well, Van's was down for inventory from January 1 to 9th (give or take a
> day), therfore they are probably way behind on orders. They were not
shipping at
> all during this time.
I certainly hope this, as well as the very adverse weather recently explains
why the exhaust system I ordered on 23 December just got shipped today, with
an expected delivery date of 22 Jan.
At grave risk of intense flames, let's face it, a month from order to
delivery is not something to be proud of, regardless of the company size.
Randy Compton
RV-3 Gulf Breeze, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)QCBC.ORG> |
| Subject: | Re: correction to leak problem (RV-6 Slider) |
They make a very runny rtv auto windshield sealer that will wick into
cracks. Clear and hardy noticeable. Try Auto Zone or Pep Boys.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jason Sneed" <jasons(at)fnbt.com>
Subject: RV-List: correction to leak problem (RV-6 Slider)
>
>
> >
> >>
> >> Can someone tell me how to stop rain water from leaking into my
> >> cockpit when the airplane is sitting outside? I tried silicone today
> >> and it slowed the water but did not stop it from coming in. Also, if
> >> I keep adding silicone the darn slider will not shut and lock. There
> >> has to be a better fix. (RV-6 slider... sorry)
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> Jason Sneed
> >> 850-598-3063
> >>
> >> See ya in Lakeland this weekend!
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6 wings for sale |
Fellow Listers:
Another re-posting of this for a local friend here in Minneapolis (the price
is right!):
RV-6 wings from partially completed kit. The wings are 90% finished and
includes center section components. Price reduced to $2000
Contact me off list and I'll forward your inquiry.
Thanks
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gluing Drilled Canopy? |
>
> We deburred our holes (had drilled them all) and used SemWeld (aka
ProSeal)
> to attach our canopy with a few (probably4 4-5 on each side) to hold the
> shirt to the canopy and frame on the forward end and side. No issues in
200+
> hours.
>
> Good Building,
>
Greetings all:
This topic has just become rather timely for me. Today I flew my newly
finished RV-4 to the paint shop (just a 10 minute flight). It was cold
today (10 degrees F). We put the airplane in the shops nice hangar and I
began to take off the control surfaces, cowl, tips, etc. I just happen to
glance at the canopy during the process and it was CRACKED!!! I could not
believe my eyes! It was about 6 inches up from one of the rivet holes (this
hole did originally have a 1/4" crack coming from it which I had stop
drilled previously). But the airplane was rolled from the cold into a
hangar heated by overheat gas radiant heaters (those long tube-type). I
think this radiant heat and quick temp change propagated the crack (my own
hangar is heated, but with forced air gas). Needless to say, the paint job
was postponed. I stop drilled the big, bug crack, buttoned everything up
and went home.
So now I have order a new canopy and all the trimmings again. My question
to all the experts... does anyone see any downside to this technique of
gluing a canopy in place. I may consider it. Now I am really gun-shy of
holes in by canopy (not a cheap lesson, by the way!)
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
N722DW, cracked and grounded
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: correction to leak problem (RV-6 Slider) |
Duct tape also known as Duck tape Glom it on over the break.
Actually, a hangar works really well. Next best is a canopy cover.
hal
>
>
> >
> >>
> >> Can someone tell me how to stop rain water from leaking into my
> >> cockpit when the airplane is sitting outside? I tried silicone today
> >> and it slowed the water but did not stop it from coming in. Also, if
> >> I keep adding silicone the darn slider will not shut and lock. There
> >> has to be a better fix. (RV-6 slider... sorry)
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> Jason Sneed
> >> 850-598-3063
> >>
> >> See ya in Lakeland this weekend!
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: GA Bashing by CBS News |
Besides telling CBS that I would have to go and again warn my friends that
CBS will pollute their minds with editorials in the name of news I told
them this:
The real threat terrorists pose is fear and terror generated by
irresponsible members of the press. You and your ilk are their witless
accomplices. Further, you injure good honest citizens with your claptrap.
What about tractor trailer rigs as bombs? Even cars? Terrorists are doing
well overseas with simple bombs in ordinary vehicles. Your idea of small
airplanes as major threat might sell advertising but it is a silly idea.
Finally, had your reporting been competent, you would have found that many
small airports do have good security and are upgrading. We are all much
more watchful of strangers at the smaller airports.
==============
Fellow flyers, tell everyone. Little point in telling CBS they are wrong
etc, they know it and don't care. It isn't just CBS and it isn't just this
story. We are fed propaganda on a regular basis, usually in the name of
greed but for political goals too. It seems odd but news is getting harder
to find everyday!
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tommy Mead" <bigun73(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GA Bashing on CBS (long) |
please don't turn the discussion to other forms of recreation, Radio Control Models
in particular. I enjoy both and would hate to have the "knee jerk reactionary
public informers" (press) make all of our hobbies and loves curtailed and
dictated by uninformed low paid political appointee's.
Thank you,
Tommy Mead
bigun73(at)msn.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Cimino<mailto:jcimino(at)echoes.net>
To: RV-LIST
Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2004 2:05 PM
Subject: RV-List: GA Bashing on CBS (long)
Here is the letter I sent to them, I hope they read it.
James Cimino
RV-8 SN 80039
100+ Hours
570-842-4057
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Milner" <tldrgred(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Marvel carb rebuild kit |
Hey Mark,
Just wanted to inform you of the characteristic leak from the Mrvel Schebler
carb from running and not flying. I found mine to drip after I adjusted the
idle jet and had no prblems noted before. I asked an AI and he said it`s
normal and couldn`r really explain it. If it leaks with the boost pump on
you have a problem but if it just drips after test running on the ground I
wouldn`t get alarmed. It sounds crazy but it`s true.
Red Milner
RV-4 79KM
based @ UES
----- Original Message -----
From: <Fiveonepw(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Marvel carb rebuild kit
>
> Hi List-
>
> After lots of archive browsing, I couldn't find any information on where
to
> purchase a rebuild kit for a Marvel Schebler carb- my carb needs a new
float
> needle and gasket. Will spend a few hours staring at the yellow pages
> (Trade-a-flame) tomorrow, but it y'all got any useful suggestions, I'd
appreciate it!!
>
> Ready to schedule DAR if it weren't for this #@*&%$@leaking carb!!!!
>
> From The PossumWorks in TN
> Mark - Engine ran yesterday after a quarter-century- woohooo!!!!!!!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "GMC" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca> |
| Subject: | Marvel carb rebuild kit |
If you happen to be using mogas for your ground runs try 100LL and the carb
dripping might stop. My Cessna 182 dripped with mogas and was fine with
100LL.
George in Langley
Hi List-
After lots of archive browsing, I couldn't find any information on where to
purchase a rebuild kit for a Marvel Schebler carb- my carb needs a new float
needle and gasket. Will spend a few hours staring at the yellow pages
(Trade-a-flame) tomorrow, but it y'all got any useful suggestions, I'd
appreciate it!!
Ready to schedule DAR if it weren't for this #@*&%$@leaking carb!!!!
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark - Engine ran yesterday after a quarter-century- woohooo!!!!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Compton" <thecomptons(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vans shipping, Dec. 23rd??? |
> >> Well Randy you did ask for "flames" and as everyone on the RV and
Rockets
> >> lists knows if you ask me for help I'm always eager to help.
> >> Lets say that Van's is a family type of company (like the ones I owned)
and
> >> gives time off for things like Christmas and New Years.
> >
> > If I'm not mistaken, they closed at noon on the Christmas Eve and New
Years
> > Eve. Kinda a family business thing to do, wasn't it!! So, the 23rd.
order
> > day, it would normally go out the next day so the 23rd. doesn't count.
Hum,
> > let the work force off on Christmas Eve when they have orders form the
the
> > 23rd. to process, how heartless. Off the weekend following Christmas so
now
> > they have Mon, Tuesday and 1/2 day Weds. to process orders then closed
for
> > the holidays and inventory the 1st. through the 9th. Geez folks, Randy
I'm
> > not raggin on you but for goodness sakes.........the order was on
December
> > 23rd.
Sorry, I didn't realize they weren't open for business or shipping 29, 30,
or 31 December.
And please keep the "flames" coming...the RV-List wouldn't be anywhere near
as fun without 'em. Heck, I'm surprised my buddy Kosta - or is it Michael -
hasn't weighed in by now.
RC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
Glen Matejcek wrote:
>
>Hi all-
>
>I understand satellite tracking of 121.5 is going away and that 406 is the
>way of the future, but as I understand it most recent 121.5 ELT's also
>transmit on 243, and that freq will be satellite supported indefinitely.
>
All true. 243 was/is the military emergency freq. I don't see them
getting rid of that!!!
Linn
>gm
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | CBS and Hypocrisy |
See the paid 30 second spot CBS is refusing to air during the upcoming Super Bowl
game and judge for yourself if this "mainstream" media giant can be depended
upon to present an alternative (and quite reasonable) viewpoint if it happens
to offend their corporate agenda.
http://www.adage.com/news.cms?newsId=39555
Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vans shipping, Dec. 23rd??? |
Talk about mis-quoted, out of text. Reminds of a news report interview I
gave on a murder investigation while on Fontana PD. Two days of the 7-8 were
for the 29th and 30th. Ya'll musta cut & pasted two or more replies as some
of those words were not mine. KABONG "Food fight, food fight" 8*) Do
Not Archive. Headed out this morning to install the new fuel tanks drains in
ole 561FS, the ones that we got yesterday from Van's. Randy I sure hope that
you get your shipment soon, BUT it has been great fun "talking" to you.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Compton" <thecomptons(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Vans shipping, Dec. 23rd???
>
> > >> Well Randy you did ask for "flames" and as everyone on the RV and
> Rockets
> > >> lists knows if you ask me for help I'm always eager to help.
> > >> Lets say that Van's is a family type of company (like the ones I
owned)
> and
> > >> gives time off for things like Christmas and New Years.
> > >
> > > If I'm not mistaken, they closed at noon on the Christmas Eve and New
> Years
> > > Eve. Kinda a family business thing to do, wasn't it!! So, the 23rd.
> order
> > > day, it would normally go out the next day so the 23rd. doesn't count.
> Hum,
> > > let the work force off on Christmas Eve when they have orders form the
> the
> > > 23rd. to process, how heartless. Off the weekend following Christmas
so
> now
> > > they have Mon, Tuesday and 1/2 day Weds. to process orders then closed
> for
> > > the holidays and inventory the 1st. through the 9th. Geez folks,
Randy
> I'm
> > > not raggin on you but for goodness sakes.........the order was on
> December
> > > 23rd.
>
> Sorry, I didn't realize they weren't open for business or shipping 29, 30,
> or 31 December.
>
> And please keep the "flames" coming...the RV-List wouldn't be anywhere
near
> as fun without 'em. Heck, I'm surprised my buddy Kosta - or is it
Michael -
> hasn't weighed in by now.
>
> RC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bobby Sather" <sather(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: CBS and Hypocrisy |
All considered, after reading the article and going to the site of
moveon.org, I contempleted the thoughts these people are trying to portray
and came up with, what if the election had gone the other way. Think that
through and try and sleep tonight.
Bobby Sather
C185
Rocket wanabe
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Galati" <rick6a(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: CBS and Hypocrisy
>
> See the paid 30 second spot CBS is refusing to air during the upcoming
Super Bowl game and judge for yourself if this "mainstream" media giant can
be depended upon to present an alternative (and quite reasonable) viewpoint
if it happens to offend their corporate agenda.
>
> http://www.adage.com/news.cms?newsId=39555
>
>
> Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marknlisa(at)hometel.com |
| Subject: | Re: GA Bashing by CBS News |
This is what I sent to CBS:
Your segment on the "danger" that general aviation aircraft might
be "packed with explosives" becoming "devastating bombs" is exactly the
response Osama Bin Laden prays to Allah for. If you don't believe me,
look up the definition of terrorism. Of course that would mean doing some
research; a word you might also wish to look up. Osama's prayers are as
misguided as your effort to "inform" the public. Or maybe your intent was
to sensationalize a frightening topic. Nah, couldn't be.
The amount of explosives you can carry in the average general aviation
aircraft is a great deal less than you can carry in the average SUV (not
to mention your average Ryder rental truck). Which do you think is easier
to acquire? Shouldn't we do something about that? Are you totally
unencumbered by the thought process?
Or perhaps you know exactly how ridiculous this all sounds, how much
you've unnecessarily terrorized the public and don't mind being Osama Bin
Laden's ambassador.
This is what I sent to the sponsors:
Regarding CBS's broadcast on 14 Jan concerning General Aviation security;
this story is full of half-truths and outright lies; its a sham. CBSs
assertion that small airports, like the one I live on, pose a significant
security threat is just plain silly. Unless an aircraft is transient
(i.e. landing to pick up fuel/passengers) everyone here knows everyone
else. There are no private hangars or parking ramps accessible to
transient aircraft; it would be impossible for a stranger to load an
aircraft with explosives in secret. Further, a fully loaded light
aircraft weighs less than an empty Honda Civic. Even the largest of light
aircraft (of the type that can land or take off from a short runway) can
carry much less that the average SUV. Ill suggest that a Ryder rental
truck is much easier to acquire, can be loaded with much more secrecy and
can be positioned much more easily and accurately than a small aircraft
(remember Oklahoma City?). I guess listing the security vulnerabilities
of rental trucks isnt sensational enough.
In addition, CBSs claim than nothing has been done to improve General
Aviation (GA) security is just plain false. I would encourage you to
contact the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association (AOPA). AOPA is just
one of several private organizations that are working closely with the FAA
and Homeland Security Department to improve GA security. AOPA has
developed and disseminated a set of security guidelines that all users of
small airports can follow, an initiative taken without a government
mandate. Take a look at the following website:
http://www.aopa.org/asn/watchindex.shtml
Its apparent to anyone with a modicum of knowledge about the GA community
that CBS is using a frightening topic to generate ratings. I generally
dont hold this against news organizations because its important to keep
the public informed, but I DO expect these organizations to do some basic
researchhell, just use a little common sense and THINK for a minute!
What it all boils down to is this: CBS is following Osama Bin Ladens
playbook by unnecessarily terrorizing the public, and your company is
paying them to do it. Id like to know how you feel about that.
Mark
---------------------------------------------
This message was sent using Home Telephone
Company's Web-Based Email interface.
http://webmail.hometel.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net> |
"Rv9-List(at)Matronics. Com" ,
"Rv-List(at)Matronics. Com" ,
"rvyahoo" ,
"Rv7-List(at)Matronics. Com" ,
"Rv6-List(at)Matronics. Com"
List,
Have cash! I am looking for a good airframe or project that has been
meticulously built. Does not mater were the setter wheel is preferably a 6
or higher airframe. Please respond with email.
Sincerely,
Noel Simmons
Blue Sky Aviation, Inc.
Phone & Fax: 406-538-6574
noel(at)blueskyaviation.net
www.blueskyaviation.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Gluing Drilled Canopy? |
In a message dated 1/15/04 9:27:59 PM Central Standard Time,
dougweil(at)pressenter.com writes:
> does anyone see any downside to this technique of
> gluing a canopy in place. I may consider it. Now I am really gun-shy of
> holes in by canopy (not a cheap lesson, by the way!)
Hi Doug-
Except for the f-glass on the front edge of my canopy (-6A tip-up) the entire
perimeter of my canopy is glued with proseal. I also used #6 screws on the
canopy skirts and #4 around the rear glass to skin,and two at the very top of
the front bubble for initial locating on installation. (no other fasteners on
rollbar or bow) I do wish I had added some black tint to the proseal as it
has a slight brownish color where you see it through the glass.
Not flying yet (but almost!) and very pleased with it so far. Clean, water &
air tight, and I believe it also stiffened up the canopy somewhat. No
reaction to the plexi I can detect at all since installation about 3 monhs ago.
Gotta love that proseal! And it's Atkins approved, too!! 8-)
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Decuir <dacure(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Terra Tri-nav problem |
I have a Terra/Trimble TN200 w/GS and Tri-nav indicator, and really have
no complaints until just recently; the OBS knob will not work. I can
spin it forever and no course can be selected. To/from switch positions
still work , and show course. Then, this morning on the ILS into SNS,
the GS showed dead-center no matter where I was,
no flag, with the "I" illuminated. I'm wondering if the high humidity we
have experienced lately has mucked up the works, or if it's time for
repairs. Any Terra owners having similar problems? Anyone know a good
Avionics shop in the Central Coast/ Sacramento Area that's familiar
with Terra stuff?
John DeCuir
RV-4, 204CP, SNS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie & Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
RV list
| Subject: | Re: RV7-List: project |
Noel & Yoshie Simmons wrote:
>--> RV7-List message posted by: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons"
>
>List,
>
>
>Have cash! I am looking for a good airframe or project that has been
>meticulously built. Does not mater were the setter wheel is preferably a 6
>or higher airframe. Please respond with email.
>
>
>Sincerely,
>
>Noel Simmons
>Blue Sky Aviation, Inc.
>Phone & Fax: 406-538-6574
>noel(at)blueskyaviation.net
>www.blueskyaviation.net
>
RV-7 wing & tail, wing still in crates, tail inventoried but little work
done. (this posting is for a friend; you can't have mine!)
Hundreds of $ under Van's price, but he isn't giving them away.
email me or call 601-879-9596
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Guys, still a bit behind on RV list but wanted to respond to this post ASAP,
Delete if this has already been posted in a later digest.
hold off on PCMCIA adaptors from Jeppesen, they are supposed to come out
with a USB version this february.
From: "Richard V. Reynolds" <rvreynolds(at)macs.net>
Subject: RV-List: Jeppesen Skybound II NavCard Datawritter
Can I use a Macintosh with Virtual PC to run the Jeppesen Skybound II
service?
What interface "cable or device" do I use for the PCMCIA slot?
Richard Reynolds, Norfolk, VA, RV-6A, almost there!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Cy,
I would (and we should) have a real problem with a DAR who is arbitrarily
imposing FARs into limitations, particularly FARs that specficially exempt
EXPs. As you know this is very contrary to the orders and circulars that are
available on the subject. And a DAR is only such because the FAA invites
them to be such. Therefore if they are going to deviate that far from the
norm, so as to impose Part 23 specifications they better be able to argue it
well, as any of us has recourse with the MIDO or FSDO station manager on the
subject of abberrant DAR behaviour.
The "example" limitations are very well defined these days, so deviations
should really need clear, objective, logical justification or that DAR is
not acting responsibly. If you feel a DAR has been excessive in the
limitations, go talk to his PI or the Station manager. On the other hand if
a known good DAR throws a lot of odd limitations at you, such as Phase one
indefinately, maybe its his way of politely saying "Start over - but this
time ask for help, or stick with boats and take swimming lessons"
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gapping REM37BY Spark Plugs |
> Hi All,
> I am switching plugs from auto spark plugs to REM37BY spark plugs. I have
> two Jeff Rose Ignitions on my IO320 Lyc. Two suggestions so far are: 1.
> Needle nose pliers and 2. Ice pick. I don't like either one. Looks to me a
> quick way to destroy at $15.00 plug. I need to go from .018 to .035 gap.
> Lots of tools to decrease the gap but what about increasing it?
> Best Regards,
> Bruce Bell
> Lubbock, Texas
> RV4 # 2888
Good question so I removed the dna notation. The best method I've found is
to use a standard set of pliers and grab the side electrode firmly from the
back, gripping it on each side. Squeeze hard and lever it back and away from
the electrode. It has worked for me and will not mar the side electrode if
you grip hard enough. Don't touch the center electrode during this process
or you'll break the insulator.
Randy Lervold
Vancouver, WA
RV-8 #80500, 366 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
SoCAL-RVlist
| From: | Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Garmin 430/530 help needed |
Ok, so I got my instrument ticket last year, then I upgraded the RV
with a Garmin 430 later in the year. The 430 is the only radio I have
in the airplane.
Now I'm trying to get deeper into the inner workings of my 430
(uh...my head hurts), and had been doing ok until I ran into this
problem.
This situation came up on while planning a flight an established TEC
route in the LA area.
The route is VNY, V186, V363, then V363 joins V23 at KRAUZ
It looks something like this (hopefully this comes out right):
POM
|
VNY V186 | PZD
___________________________________
|
|
|
|V363
|
|
| KRAUZ
There is no intersection shown on the low altitude enoute chart
between V186 and V363.
So, while trying to program the flight plan in the 430, I can
establish a route from VNY to PZD, but I can't figure out how to get
the flight plan to accept the non labled intersecion to get
established on V363.
One cheater way would be to try to get the lat/long of the
intersection off of the map and input it as a user waypoint.
The other would be to avoid using the flight plan and fly the GPS
direct track from VNY to PZD and use the VOR dialed up on POM and fly
the intercept. But that really defeats the purpose of the flight
plan.
I hoping there is a way to get it in the flight plan with out having
to create a user waypoint. That might be ok on the ground, but a
single pilot IFR route change inflight might be a challange (or am I
just being a wussy?)
Any help out there from someone REALLY familiar with the Garmin
radios would be greatly appreciated.
Laird RV-6
SoCal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Marvel Scheb carbs rebuild kits are about the same cost as having it
exchanged. If you have a few specific parts you need order them from Chief
or ACS instead.
If it leaks due to auto gas, be aware that the MTBE in autogas can attack
some rubber components and distort them some, such as the rubber tip on the
needle valve. But this can fix itself with a return to 100ll, or it may leak
worse.
If the float drowned/disentegrated replace it with brass one, and make sure
you comply with single peice venturi AD as well.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
>
>Planning and acquiring the gizmos for my panel now. Basic VFR Dynon, Garmin
>196 & IK2000. I have been leaning to get a Val INS422 Nav VOR, Glide slope
>etc. and wondering what experiences there may be out there to help me decide
>ya or nay. I do not plan to get my IFR ticket but would take enough IFR
>training to be comfertable with getting out of unexpected soup.
With the Dynon (there is no such as VFR or IFR Dynon) and the Garmin 196
you are fully ready for VFR. You have no use for the other stuff, no VOR
equipment needed, certainly no glide slope! INS422? Inertial
nav? No. IK2000 - I don't know what is but you don't need it in VFR.
Get your IFR ticket if you think you might go into IMC. Good VFR pilots
don't get "into the soup" - ever. Forget it. Learn to avoid IMC and make
a pact with yourself that you will never risk getting into it while
VFR. Your panel of gizmos won't save you if you aren't competent and if
you aren't instrument rated the odds are you aren't competent. I have
flown with instrument rated pilots who were not competent because they were
out of practice. Flying in IMC isn't a cakewalk with the skill and without
it is usually deadly. If you go into the clouds in an RV I'd be willing to
be you'd lose control in less than a minute and break up in another!
A simple autopilot would be nice, much preferred to an INS. The Trio
Avionics product has a feature where you touch a button and it does a
180. Push the button when you see bad WX ahead.
Keep the rules for visibility and cloud distance in mind for safety,
legality and concern for other legal flyers who you might meet if you "get
into the soup".
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | a flyer <aflyer(at)direcway.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin 430/530 help needed |
Laird, one thing you can always do in the air (on the Nav 2 page) is to move
the cursor to a point, and hit direct to. It will label the spot as "map 1",
and then you can fly to it, or put it in your plan.
In general, you get lots more choices by using the 'menu' key too. I haven't
tried it, but I would put the cursor on a spot, then hit menu and see if it
will let you enter it directly into the flight plan.
Maybe I should say, to move the cursor on the nav 2 page, push the button
(lower right), then scroll using the outside knob for left and right, and
the inside knob for up and down (or is it visa versa).
Ha, good luck, John Huft
----- Original Message -----
From: "Laird Owens" <owens(at)aerovironment.com>
Subject: RV-List: Garmin 430/530 help needed
>
> Ok, so I got my instrument ticket last year, then I upgraded the RV
> with a Garmin 430 later in the year. The 430 is the only radio I have
> in the airplane.
>
> Now I'm trying to get deeper into the inner workings of my 430
> (uh...my head hurts), and had been doing ok until I ran into this
> problem.
>
> This situation came up on while planning a flight an established TEC
> route in the LA area.
>
> The route is VNY, V186, V363, then V363 joins V23 at KRAUZ
>
> It looks something like this (hopefully this comes out right):
>
>
> POM
>
> |
> VNY V186 | PZD
> ___________________________________
> |
> |
> |
> |V363
> |
> |
> | KRAUZ
>
> There is no intersection shown on the low altitude enoute chart
> between V186 and V363.
>
> So, while trying to program the flight plan in the 430, I can
> establish a route from VNY to PZD, but I can't figure out how to get
> the flight plan to accept the non labled intersecion to get
> established on V363.
>
> One cheater way would be to try to get the lat/long of the
> intersection off of the map and input it as a user waypoint.
>
> The other would be to avoid using the flight plan and fly the GPS
> direct track from VNY to PZD and use the VOR dialed up on POM and fly
> the intercept. But that really defeats the purpose of the flight
> plan.
>
> I hoping there is a way to get it in the flight plan with out having
> to create a user waypoint. That might be ok on the ground, but a
> single pilot IFR route change inflight might be a challange (or am I
> just being a wussy?)
>
> Any help out there from someone REALLY familiar with the Garmin
> radios would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Laird RV-6
> SoCal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gapping REM37BY Spark Plugs |
| From: | Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net> |
I have had best results using needle nose pliers with a right angle to their
jaws. These are the best tools to use to keep away from the ceramic middle.
I think you will be pleased with the 37BYs.
My continuing problem with the Rose "system" is that the rubber washers used
in the connectors to the plug seem to disintegrate each time I change plugs.
Any one find a better washer or method? Jeff has come out with some new
tougher ones but they turned to mush on me at 100 hours.
> From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 14:28:54 -0800
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Gapping REM37BY Spark Plugs
>
>
>> Hi All,
>> I am switching plugs from auto spark plugs to REM37BY spark plugs. I have
>> two Jeff Rose Ignitions on my IO320 Lyc. Two suggestions so far are: 1.
>> Needle nose pliers and 2. Ice pick. I don't like either one. Looks to me a
>> quick way to destroy at $15.00 plug. I need to go from .018 to .035 gap.
>> Lots of tools to decrease the gap but what about increasing it?
>> Best Regards,
>> Bruce Bell
>> Lubbock, Texas
>> RV4 # 2888
>
>
> Good question so I removed the dna notation. The best method I've found is
> to use a standard set of pliers and grab the side electrode firmly from the
> back, gripping it on each side. Squeeze hard and lever it back and away from
> the electrode. It has worked for me and will not mar the side electrode if
> you grip hard enough. Don't touch the center electrode during this process
> or you'll break the insulator.
>
> Randy Lervold
> Vancouver, WA
> RV-8 #80500, 366 hrs
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gapping REM37BY Spark Plugs |
| From: | Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net> |
The question is not addressed to me but I will chime in: I switched because
Jeff now recommends the 37BYs. He used to favor the auto plugs. The
advantage from my standpoint is that they are more rugged. I use them on
both my Rose system and on my magneto plugs, but with different gaps.
Denis
> From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 13:15:05 -0800
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Gapping REM37BY Spark Plugs
>
>
> Why are you switching from Auto plugs to aircraft plugs?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | a flyer <aflyer(at)direcway.com> |
Last spring, almost a year ago, Jepp tech support told me the USB adaptor
would be ready in the fall. The usual in the computer biz I guess.
John Huft
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Subject: RV-List: Skybound II
>
> Guys, still a bit behind on RV list but wanted to respond to this post
ASAP,
> Delete if this has already been posted in a later digest.
>
> hold off on PCMCIA adaptors from Jeppesen, they are supposed to come out
> with a USB version this february.
>
>
> From: "Richard V. Reynolds" <rvreynolds(at)macs.net>
> Subject: RV-List: Jeppesen Skybound II NavCard Datawritter
>
>
> Can I use a Macintosh with Virtual PC to run the Jeppesen Skybound II
> service?
>
> What interface "cable or device" do I use for the PCMCIA slot?
>
> Richard Reynolds, Norfolk, VA, RV-6A, almost there!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Rion Bourgeois" <rion(at)att.net> |
, "rv-list"
| Subject: | Chicken Little works at CBS news |
CBS employs the idiots who prepared that awful piece about the terrible terrorist
threat posed by unfenced residential airparks and their lack of screening of
passengers and cargoes. The relevant e-mail address is evening(at)cbsnews.com
You might want to use a little barbeque sauce... Rion
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)QCBC.ORG> |
The float is now back to plastic on the 4th go round. The only illegal
float is the original metal float. The plastic float that was the ADed
replacement does sink but is still legal as it takes a while to sink. The
New "improved" metal float is very expensive and there is a new plastic
float that is not supposed to sink.
The Two-piece venturi is still legal as long as it isn't deformed or loose.
The AD was revised.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter soon to be Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Subject: RV-List: Carb leak
>
> Marvel Scheb carbs rebuild kits are about the same cost as having it
> exchanged. If you have a few specific parts you need order them from Chief
> or ACS instead.
>
> If it leaks due to auto gas, be aware that the MTBE in autogas can attack
> some rubber components and distort them some, such as the rubber tip on
the
> needle valve. But this can fix itself with a return to 100ll, or it may
leak
> worse.
>
> If the float drowned/disentegrated replace it with brass one, and make
sure
> you comply with single peice venturi AD as well.
>
> W
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
| Subject: | Gapping REM37BY Spark Plugs |
[NOTE: Info below is cut and pasted from two emails from Denis]
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Denis Walsh
> Sent: Friday, January 16, 2004 7:16 PM
> To: rv list matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Gapping REM37BY Spark Plugs
>
>
> The question is not addressed to me but I will chime in: I
> switched because
> Jeff now recommends the 37BYs. He used to favor the auto plugs. The
> advantage from my standpoint is that they are more rugged. I use them on
> both my Rose system and on my magneto plugs, but with different gaps.
>
Ditto. After having several LONG discussions with Jeff on this matter almost
a year ago, I found out from Jeff that he in fact was one of the early
"pioneers" (my choice of words) in the use of automotive plugs in Lycomings.
He used to even mill/grind (whatever) them to make them fit better. He said
that after some technical dialog with Lycoming, he came to understand how a
plug with the characteristics of the REM37BYs would lead to a better burn
than the "386's" (automotive) that he suggests if you really want
automotive.
For a variety of reasons, {see old thread on vibrations ....search using
"all shook up"} I actually took OUT the 37BYs we had in our O-320 and put in
some automotives. I think that I could feel (subjectively) LESS performance
just as he had indicated. The 37BYs went back in.
>
> My continuing problem with the Rose "system" is that the rubber
> washers used
> in the connectors to the plug seem to disintegrate each time I
> change plugs.
> Any one find a better washer or method? Jeff has come out with some new
> tougher ones but they turned to mush on me at 100 hours.
We also got a set of the new ones and they are in fact better. But you are
correct, this in my mind is the weakest part of Jeff's otherwise fine system
(from a fine person with fine support).
It would seem that some enterprising soul with the skills would make a set
of "wires" that would work. Male automotive style plug on the end for the EI
and screw on caps for the plug side. BUT(!!!) Handle 85,000 volts ... sparks
will leap to metal caps so the problem is containment OR making the caps
from a non conductive material and mating this to very high performance
(automotive racing??) wires.
I know I'd buy a set and so would probably every user of the Jeff Rose
System.
James
> Denis
>
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: Keep water out of the cockpit |
tests=DATE_IN_FUTURE_03_06
> > Can someone tell me how to stop rain water from leaking into my
> > cockpit when the airplane is sitting outside? I tried silicone today
> > and it slowed the water but did not stop it from coming in. Also, if
> > I keep adding silicone the darn slider will not shut and lock. There
> > has to be a better fix. I have a cover but I still get water with
> > the cover on.
I found water was leaking in thru the floor ribs, folling the belly skin that
extends beyond the fuselage and overlaps the bottom of the wing. I saw
dramatic reduction in leakage by putting silicone sealant around the
intersection of the fuselage exterior and belly skin extension.
Tim
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 600 hrs
RV-10 #40059 under construction
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin 430/530 help needed |
Laird, I am not familiar with the 430, but the way it works on other RNAVs
is to define the intersection by two radials, in this case the radials are
the airways. It might look something like this: VNY009/BNA270; you will
probably have to name the intersection. Look for the page in the manual on
creating waypoints. I will send this message if I don't see any other
responses that are more specific. I have received clearances that are just
what you described: "cleared V186 until intercepting V363, V363 to..."
Makes for a busy cockpit when they do this.
Hope this helps.
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 QB (Building)
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Laird Owens" <owens(at)aerovironment.com>
Subject: RV-List: Garmin 430/530 help needed
>
> Ok, so I got my instrument ticket last year, then I upgraded the RV
> with a Garmin 430 later in the year. The 430 is the only radio I have
> in the airplane.
>
> Now I'm trying to get deeper into the inner workings of my 430
> (uh...my head hurts), and had been doing ok until I ran into this
> problem.
>
> This situation came up on while planning a flight an established TEC
> route in the LA area.
>
> The route is VNY, V186, V363, then V363 joins V23 at KRAUZ
>
> It looks something like this (hopefully this comes out right):
>
>
> POM
>
> |
> VNY V186 | PZD
> ___________________________________
> |
> |
> |
> |V363
> |
> |
> | KRAUZ
>
> There is no intersection shown on the low altitude enoute chart
> between V186 and V363.
>
> So, while trying to program the flight plan in the 430, I can
> establish a route from VNY to PZD, but I can't figure out how to get
> the flight plan to accept the non labled intersecion to get
> established on V363.
>
> One cheater way would be to try to get the lat/long of the
> intersection off of the map and input it as a user waypoint.
>
> The other would be to avoid using the flight plan and fly the GPS
> direct track from VNY to PZD and use the VOR dialed up on POM and fly
> the intercept. But that really defeats the purpose of the flight
> plan.
>
> I hoping there is a way to get it in the flight plan with out having
> to create a user waypoint. That might be ok on the ground, but a
> single pilot IFR route change inflight might be a challange (or am I
> just being a wussy?)
>
> Any help out there from someone REALLY familiar with the Garmin
> radios would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Laird RV-6
> SoCal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Can UHMW plastic block be painted? |
I was just mounting the UHMW block for the canopy handle in my tip-up
canopy and noticed how the white plastic stands out againt the paint
I've chosen for the interior. Has any one tried painting the UHMW? My
guess is nothing would stick to it.
--
Tom Sargent - RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin 430/530 help needed |
>
>Ok, so I got my instrument ticket last year, then I upgraded the RV
>with a Garmin 430 later in the year. The 430 is the only radio I have
>in the airplane.
>
>Now I'm trying to get deeper into the inner workings of my 430
>(uh...my head hurts), and had been doing ok until I ran into this
>problem.
>
>This situation came up on while planning a flight an established TEC
>route in the LA area.
>
>The route is VNY, V186, V363, then V363 joins V23 at KRAUZ
>
>It looks something like this (hopefully this comes out right):
>
>
> POM
>
> |
> VNY V186 | PZD
> ___________________________________
> |
> |
> |
> |V363
> |
> |
> | KRAUZ
>
>There is no intersection shown on the low altitude enoute chart
>between V186 and V363.
>
>So, while trying to program the flight plan in the 430, I can
>establish a route from VNY to PZD, but I can't figure out how to get
>the flight plan to accept the non labled intersecion to get
>established on V363.
>
>One cheater way would be to try to get the lat/long of the
>intersection off of the map and input it as a user waypoint.
>
>The other would be to avoid using the flight plan and fly the GPS
>direct track from VNY to PZD and use the VOR dialed up on POM and fly
>the intercept. But that really defeats the purpose of the flight
>plan.
>
>I hoping there is a way to get it in the flight plan with out having
>to create a user waypoint. That might be ok on the ground, but a
>single pilot IFR route change inflight might be a challange (or am I
>just being a wussy?)
>
>Any help out there from someone REALLY familiar with the Garmin
>radios would be greatly appreciated.
>
>Laird RV-6
>SoCal
>
Laird,
It's too cold in the garage to fire my avionics up right now, but I
think there is a way to do what you want. I'm pretty sure you can
use two VORs and the radials off those VORs to define the position of
a user waypoint, which you would then put in your flight plan. There
are a whole bunch of different fields on the page where you create
the user waypoint. You should be able to just fill in enough info to
uniquely define a position, and the other fields will be calculated.
I'm going to heat my garage up tomorrow so I can do some work. I'll
try this out and report back.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Can UHMW plastic block be painted? |
Tom,
The RV-7 finish kit came with black UHMW. Dunno if that's more appealing to
you, but if so you could probably order the -7 part from Van's (assuming
it's a different part #).
One caveat is that one time I ordered some extra UHMW chunks from
Van's...using the same part # from a white slab...and they shipped me black.
Color wasn't important in that case, but I was still surprised. In any
case, be aware that they may interchange the colors unless you ask 'em for a
specific one.
In case you want to roll your own, McMaster Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com)
also appears to sell UHMW/polyethylene in bar form. I'm pretty sure they
sell it in black, blue, white, or gray.
Best of luck,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Can UHMW plastic block be painted?
>
> I was just mounting the UHMW block for the canopy handle in my tip-up
> canopy and noticed how the white plastic stands out againt the paint
> I've chosen for the interior. Has any one tried painting the UHMW? My
> guess is nothing would stick to it.
> --
> Tom Sargent - RV-6A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Isler" <jlisler(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Marvel carb rebuild kit |
I purchased a rebuild kit from a company called AVSTAR (866-982-7287) in
Jupiter, Florida. It was for an MA-4SPA and included all the gaskets,
screws, washers, springs, accelerator pump, needle and seat, and the
throttle shaft and bushings. It cost somewhere about $180.00 for the
complete kit. I already had the metal float and the one piece venturi. I
also downloaded the overhaul manual from the internet on the Precision
Airmotive website (I don't think you can do that anymore). A rebuilt, yellow
tagged carb from them with all of the above was $560.00 exchange.
If you have ever rebuilt a Holley or Quadrajet carb you can do this. The
hardest part was replacing the throttle shaft bushings.
Jerry Isler
RV-4 #1070
N455J
Subject: RV-List: Marvel carb rebuild kit
>
> Hi List-
>
> After lots of archive browsing, I couldn't find any information on where
to
> purchase a rebuild kit for a Marvel Schebler carb- my carb needs a new
float
> needle and gasket. Will spend a few hours staring at the yellow pages
> (Trade-a-flame) tomorrow, but it y'all got any useful suggestions, I'd
appreciate it!!
>
>> From The PossumWorks in TN
> Mark - Engine ran yesterday after a quarter-century- woohooo!!!!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Isler" <jlisler(at)alltel.net> |
I see that Van's is now carrying the Dynon D10 and is offering a modest
discount for the system. Before I drop my money I have several questions:
1) What is the general opinion of this system now that several more weeks
have lapsed since the last traffic on the
list concerning this instrument?
2) Is it still worth the money?
3) Does it work as advertised?
4) Are the teething problems pretty much behind us now?
5) Do you really need a laptop computer (which I don't have) to set this
beast up?
6) What is the lead time now? A letter from Dynon said 2 weeks.
7) Buy from Van's or Dynon? Does it matter?
Jerry Isler
RV-4 #1070
Ready to order!
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 1/17/2004 9:04:30 AM Eastern Standard Time,
jlisler(at)alltel.net writes:
I see that Van's is now carrying the Dynon D10 and is offering a modest
discount for the system. Before I drop my money I have several questions:
1) What is the general opinion of this system now that several more weeks
have lapsed since the last traffic on the
list concerning this instrument?
I have 75 hours on mine in my RV-4 and love it
2) Is it still worth the money?
Yes, every penny. I sold the gauges it replaced for $1550 on the list.
3) Does it work as advertised?
Yes, and they provide excellent service when you need assistance.
4) Are the teething problems pretty much behind us now?
For me they are.
5) Do you really need a laptop computer (which I don't have) to set this
beast up?
Yes, you need it to enter check lists (a feature I didn't think I'd use and
now I couldn't imagine not having it) and to calibrate the heading. You also
need it to update the software when new releases come out. I suppose you could
take the unit out and hook it up at home to do this if you took some time to
make up a harness. You could always borrow a laptop once a year or two if
necessary.
6) What is the lead time now? A letter from Dynon said 2 weeks.
I don't know
7) Buy from Van's or Dynon? Does it matter?
I'd buy from Van's, as it appears to be cheaper.
-Mike Kraus
N223RV RV-4 Flying (with a Dynon)
N213RV RV-10 Empannage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Can UHMW plastic block be painted? |
You could try dyeing it. I know back when I was building radio control cars,
I'd go buy some Rit Dye, heat up a pan of water to almost boiling, and throw
all the glass filled nylon parts in for about 5-10 minutes with the package
of dye. The longer they were in there, the darker they would get. You could
try a piece and see what happens, assuming you can find a color that nearly
matches your interior.
Just an idea......
-Mike Kraus
N223RV RV-4 Flying
N213RV RV-10 Empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin 430/530 help needed |
>
>>
>>Ok, so I got my instrument ticket last year, then I upgraded the RV
>>with a Garmin 430 later in the year. The 430 is the only radio I have
>>in the airplane.
>>
>>Now I'm trying to get deeper into the inner workings of my 430
>>(uh...my head hurts), and had been doing ok until I ran into this
>>problem.
>>
>>This situation came up on while planning a flight an established TEC
>>route in the LA area.
>>
>>The route is VNY, V186, V363, then V363 joins V23 at KRAUZ
>>
>>It looks something like this (hopefully this comes out right):
>>
>>
>> POM
>>
>> |
>> VNY V186 | PZD
>> ___________________________________
>> |
>> |
>> |
>> |V363
>> |
>> |
>> | KRAUZ
>>
>>There is no intersection shown on the low altitude enoute chart
>>between V186 and V363.
>>
>>So, while trying to program the flight plan in the 430, I can
>>establish a route from VNY to PZD, but I can't figure out how to get
>>the flight plan to accept the non labled intersecion to get
>>established on V363.
>>
>>One cheater way would be to try to get the lat/long of the
>>intersection off of the map and input it as a user waypoint.
>>
>>The other would be to avoid using the flight plan and fly the GPS
>>direct track from VNY to PZD and use the VOR dialed up on POM and fly
>>the intercept. But that really defeats the purpose of the flight
>>plan.
>>
>>I hoping there is a way to get it in the flight plan with out having
>>to create a user waypoint. That might be ok on the ground, but a
>>single pilot IFR route change inflight might be a challange (or am I
>>just being a wussy?)
>>
>>Any help out there from someone REALLY familiar with the Garmin
>>radios would be greatly appreciated.
>>
>>Laird RV-6
>>SoCal
>>
>
>Laird,
>
>It's too cold in the garage to fire my avionics up right now, but I
>think there is a way to do what you want. I'm pretty sure you can
>use two VORs and the radials off those VORs to define the position of
>a user waypoint, which you would then put in your flight plan. There
>are a whole bunch of different fields on the page where you create
>the user waypoint. You should be able to just fill in enough info to
>uniquely define a position, and the other fields will be calculated.
>
>I'm going to heat my garage up tomorrow so I can do some work. I'll
>try this out and report back.
>--
>Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
I fired up the GNS-430 and tried this out. It is possible to create
a user waypoint where the position is defined by radials from two
other waypoints. This ability is not described in the Pilot's Guide
that I have (Rev. F, dated July 2000), and it can get a bit confusing
to use, but it does work.
The slickest way to do this is from the FPL page. Enter a waypoint
name that doesn't appear in the database. I like to use the VOR
identifier, plus two numbers to define the distance from the VOR (if
known). You'll get the Create Waypoint page. Enter the first
reference waypoint, the radial, and a fictitious distance. The
actual distance value you enter is not important. Enter the second
reference waypoint and the radial from it. The fake distance number
you entered earlier will be updated to the correct value and the
waypoint position will be created. Hit the Enter key a couple more
times and you are finished.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie & Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
RV list
| Subject: | -7/-8 wing wiring |
Advice in the archives seems indecisive.
Has anyone routed wire between the tank & spar by drilling lightening
holes in the tank rear baffle Z-brackets? (I'm not concerned about
running wire next to the tanks.) It would seem that a few ounces would
be saved & an easy path created at the same time.
If there is no prior experience with trying this, I'll check with Van's
on Monday.
Thanks,
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Evenson" <revenson(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Are close tolerance bolts larger? |
I've got a hole that I've drilled just a tad too large. Are 'close tolerance bolts'
a bit larger in diameter than regular AN bolts? I haven't been able to
find a decent explanation of those in the books I've got.
Thanks, Roger.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
Hi Jerry,
As far as the need for a laptop to "set the beast up" you should be able to
buy used laptop that will do the job for very low dollar cost.
I doubt that what you need will cost you over $200.00.
Ask around the family and friends and you will likely find a loaner or a
gift.
When portables are out of date for those with the need for more up to date
computer technology the tend to get shelved rather than be thrown out
It should not matter where you by it.
As my aircraft is not yet finished I cannot help you with your other
questions.
Jim in Kelowna Getting wired {8-}!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Isler" <jlisler(at)alltel.net>
Subject: RV-List: Dynon EFIS
>
> I see that Van's is now carrying the Dynon D10 and is offering a modest
> discount for the system. Before I drop my money I have several questions:
> 1) What is the general opinion of this system now that several more weeks
> have lapsed since the last traffic on the
> list concerning this instrument?
> 2) Is it still worth the money?
> 3) Does it work as advertised?
> 4) Are the teething problems pretty much behind us now?
> 5) Do you really need a laptop computer (which I don't have) to set this
> beast up?
> 6) What is the lead time now? A letter from Dynon said 2 weeks.
> 7) Buy from Van's or Dynon? Does it matter?
>
> Jerry Isler
> RV-4 #1070
> Ready to order!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Are close tolerance bolts larger? |
Yes, they are. But the difference is less than "just a bit" (a few
thousandths) , so if you have drilled an oversized hole I doubt that
would be your solution.
What hole exactly have you drilled oversized? In some cases it really
won't make any difference - it depends on what the bolt is doing.
Dick Tasker, 90573
Roger Evenson wrote:
>
>I've got a hole that I've drilled just a tad too large. Are 'close tolerance
bolts' a bit larger in diameter than regular AN bolts? I haven't been able to
find a decent explanation of those in the books I've got.
>Thanks, Roger.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
I now have over 100 hours behind the Dynon D-10. I have flown it quite a bit IFR
including several approaches in the soup to minimums. I am very happy with it.
It does everything they advertise, and having said that, I still do not believe
they recommend it for IFR.
Having said all that, my unit will, every once in a great while, get a case of
the wobbles. These last around 5 minutes and may not come back for 10 or
20hours of flying time. It has happened maybe 4 or 5 times. Dynon has replaced
my unit once and it happened before and after the replacement. Maybe it is
something in my airplane screwing with the magnetometer, but it happens and I
wish I could nail it down. This is a 10 degree bank back and forth with about
15-20 deg heading change. It would not cause an upset, but it would be hard to
track the localizer.
Dynon service has been TREMENDOUS! When I call they listen, they answer my
questions, when I sent my unit back they air freighted the new unit back to me.
Your question about the Laptop, I have yet to get mine hooked up to a laptop and
it works fine. I have the external magnetometer and it is as accurate as most
mag compasses in airplanes.
So I guess this is my assesment at this point. In a VFR airplane I would
recommend the Dynon D-10 WITHOUT Reservation. It is a BARGAIN for the price.
For an IFR airplane, you might consider it "Experimental" based on the short
time the unit has been in the field, anyone flying IFR with this unit should be
capable of flying IFR with the other instruments in their panel. Of course when
you compare it to the miserable record of vacuum pumps, and the fact that anyone
flying IFR should be able to fly IFR partial panel anyway,.......
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
I now have over 100 hours behind the Dynon D-10. I have flown it quite a bit IFR
including several approaches in the soup to minimums. I am very happy with it.
It does everything they advertise, and having said that, I still do not believe
they recommend it for IFR.
Having said all that, my unit will, every once in a great while, get a case of
the wobbles. These last around 5 minutes and may not come back for 10 or
20hours of flying time. It has happened maybe 4 or 5 times. Dynon has replaced
my unit once and it happened before and after the replacement. Maybe it is
something in my airplane screwing with the magnetometer, but it happens and I
wish I could nail it down. This is a 10 degree bank back and forth with about
15-20 deg heading change. It would not cause an upset, but it would be hard to
track the localizer.
Dynon service has been TREMENDOUS! When I call they listen, they answer my
questions, when I sent my unit back they air freighted the new unit back to me.
Your question about the Laptop, I have yet to get mine hooked up to a laptop and
it works fine. I have the external magnetometer and it is as accurate as most
mag compasses in airplanes.
So I guess this is my assesment at this point. In a VFR airplane I would
recommend the Dynon D-10 WITHOUT Reservation. It is a BARGAIN for the price.
For an IFR airplane, you might consider it "Experimental" based on the short
time the unit has been in the field, anyone flying IFR with this unit should be
capable of flying IFR with the other instruments in their panel. Of course when
you compare it to the miserable record of vacuum pumps, and the fact that anyone
flying IFR should be able to fly IFR partial panel anyway,.......
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Substitute Pop Rivet? |
Can I substitute a CS 4-4 pop rivet for a AN 470-4-4 in terms of strength? (the
parts are a -9 elevator spar to tip ribs). I would ask Van's but it is a long
weekend. Thanks in advance.
Glenn in Arizona -9A Wings (and some left over parts) with Fuselage ordered. DO
NOT ARCHIVE.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Are close tolerance bolts larger? |
What size bolt are you refering to? Why not up-size the hole to the
next size? If it's an AN3, ream it out to and AN4.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Roger Evenson [mailto:revenson(at)comcast.net]
> Sent: Saturday, January 17, 2004 3:28 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Are close tolerance bolts larger?
>
>
>
> I've got a hole that I've drilled just a tad too large. Are
> 'close tolerance bolts' a bit larger in diameter than regular
> AN bolts? I haven't been able to find a decent explanation
> of those in the books I've got. Thanks, Roger.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV List Gas Lift Strut |
| From: | smoothweasel(at)juno.com |
Does anyone here know of a place that i can get information about a gas
filled strut before ordering? I got one from the local parts store and it
is way to hard to compress. I will be using it to support my canopy when
open.
Joel "Weasel" Graber
-4 almost.........!
Brooksville MS
________________________________________________________________________________
Has anyone else encountered these or other type problems with the Dynon 10? I
am just before ordering 2 units but would like to have more feedback from
users.
Thanks in advabce.
Doug Preston
RV7A N196VA
BHM
my unit will, every once in a great while, get a case of
the wobbles. These last around 5 minutes and may not come back for 10 or
20hours of flying time. It has happened maybe 4 or 5 times. Dynon has
replaced
my unit once and it happened before and after the replacement. Maybe it is
something in my airplane screwing with the magnetometer, but it happens and I
wish I could nail it down. This is a 10 degree bank back and forth with about
15-20 deg heading change. It would not cause an upset, but it would be hard
to
track the localizer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Dougpsr(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Has anyone else encountered these or other type problems with the Dynon 10? I
> am just before ordering 2 units but would like to have more feedback from
> users.
> Thanks in advabce.
>
> Doug Preston
> RV7A N196VA
> BHM
A Dynon has been in my RV-6 for about 40 hrs. It has been very reliable
and accurate. The only AHRS glitch I have seen is an infrequent "lean"
of five degrees or less to the left (Well.......it IS manufactured in
the great liberal state of Washington!!?!). This error usually last only
a few seconds and is probably well within the wobbling you would
normally see in a mechanical gyro. Five degrees of roll is much more
apparent on the glass display than on a mechanical gyro. This infrequent
anomaly would in no way prevent a pilot from being able to fly the plane
via the Dynon and it may be unique to my installation. The remote mag
works very well and is probably more accurate than any whiskey compass.
There is an EMI issue with the remote magnetometer that may or may not
have been resolved; Doug at Dynon can provide an update on this matter.
All in all, I am very impressed with the Dynon and think it represents a
tremendous value. I suspect the Dynon's price point, reliability and 500
units sold is the subject of frequent discussion in the break rooms of
other EFIS manufacturers. :-)
Sam Buchanan
http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Garmin 430/530 help needed |
>
> Is there any other way to know that there is a named
> intersection there?
>
> I'm going out to the airport today, so I'll try to input POM04 and
> see if it's in the data base.
>
> Thanks Michel.
>
> Laird
Laird,
IFR low altitude chart, or activate on your 430's map to have it display
intersections:
From map display, menu, select setup map, enter, small knob to scroll to
navaid group, then big knob to scroll to INT. Then select map zoom for
which you want the intersection displayed.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 430 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Can UHMW plastic block be painted? |
One trick that I know of for nylon parts is to buy some RIT fabric dye, mix
it up, and simmer the parts in the dye mixture for 10 minutes or so. You
could dye it to match your paint scheme.
Haven't tried this on UHMW though.
Curt
----- Original Message -----
From: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Can UHMW plastic block be painted?
>
> I was just mounting the UHMW block for the canopy handle in my tip-up
> canopy and noticed how the white plastic stands out againt the paint
> I've chosen for the interior. Has any one tried painting the UHMW? My
> guess is nothing would stick to it.
> --
> Tom Sargent - RV-6A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Garrett, Randy L (C4S)" <Randy.L.Garrett(at)GDC4S.Com> |
| Subject: | Surprising cause of tire shimmy: Defective inner tube |
Other people with tire shimmy might be interested in my experience since the
fix turned out to be surprising.
I had a fairly strong shimmy in the right main of my 6-A. The onset was
between 20 - 30 mph. That's moderately fast taxiing, but obviously one
passes through that range after every landing (hopefully!) Interestingly,
it only occurred with the wheel pant on. The left main and the nose wheel
were fine.
Seemed like the wheel pant is the problem, right? Balanced the wheel pant.
No joy. Balanced both mains with a nice custom made tool that a friend had.
No joy. But an interesting indicator ... Right main took 6 oz of weight to
balance, opposite the air stem. Checked, double-checked, triple-checked
that the tube was aligned properly. (Left main took only 1 oz to balance
and that was not opposite the stem). My hypothesis at that point was that
there was something wrong with the tire. Lowered the air pressure. With
air pressure in the low 20's the shimmy was "acceptable". This was with
Van's original equipment tires.
BTW, also checked the tires and brakes for round and rolling true. All
looked great.
These tires wear fairly rapidly, so soon I had an excuse to buy some new
Condors. These are heavier but seem to be noticeably better tires. Did not
change tubes though some recommend that. These tubes look fine and weren't
that old. Rebalance. WHOA ... Right main still needs 6 oz of weight.
Remove tire and tube ... balance on wheel itself seems great. Check balance
on tube ... it needs 6 oz ITSELF. How can that be? The thing doesn't weigh
much more than that! Got new tube from same friend. No problem on balance.
Reassemble. Takes about 0.5 oz to balance. Wheel shimmy GONE! HALLELUJAH!
But who would have thunk???
Randy Garrett
N4031P
230 hours flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Garrett, Randy L (C4S)" <Randy.L.Garrett(at)GDC4S.Com> |
| Subject: | Flying to Quebec? |
I am based just outside of Boston and thinking of flying my 6-A to Quebec.
I would especially like to attend the Winter Carnival. My question is, what
recommendations do the natives have for flying there. I have read the
material on AOPA, which seems comprehensive. Got my US customs pass and
mailed in for my CANPASS. Got my "homebuilt permit" from Canada, etc. But
I've never flown into Canada, much less during the winter.
Is Quebec airport reasonably friendly to General Aviation? Is there a
preferred FBO? I do have the full blown Reiff preheater. Will I be able to
plug it in somewhere? Any other suggestions?
And of course, any builders nearby? I'd be happy to talk and look at your
plane or show you mine.
Randy Garrett
N4031P
230 hours flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Are close tolerance bolts larger? |
Hi Roger,
I am under the impression that Close Tolerance bolts can be ordered in
incrementally larger diameter sizes. If so I think the increments are in
thousands of inches. Possibly up to about ten thousandth oversize if memory
serves. I'll leave it up to one of the list engineers to give more accurate
information, references and sources.
AN bolts and MS close tolerance bolts are quality controlled to different
standards. The MS close tolerance variety have precisely round diameters and
the shanks are sized lengthwise to precise tolerances. The ones I have seen
came with an expanded plastic protective shield over the shank to guard
against shipping and handling damages.
If the drilled hole is only slightly oversize as might happen with a hole
drilled a bit crooked then straightened out, and it is one of several that
are intended to hold structure together. You might be safe to leave well
enough alone.
If you think that drilling out to the next bolt size is an option check the
bolt head side and the nut side for fastener clearance.
NOTE
Jim in Kelowna
> >
> >I've got a hole that I've drilled just a tad too large. Are 'close
tolerance bolts' a bit larger in diameter than regular AN bolts? I haven't
been able to find a decent explanation of those in the books I've got.
> >Thanks, Roger.
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com> |
I am planning on having a nice ol fashion airplane get together on
Saturday, February 28th at my office, shop, and house. My shop is
located through a door in my office. Walking out of my office takes
you to a bathroom then game room with pool table, ping-pong table,
fridge, and big screen TV. I'll probably end up buying a keg, sodas
and a boatload of Hooters wings. My airplane project is sitting in
the shop. We'll have a TV in the shop with RV tapes, Team RV
adventure DVDs going, while the big screen will have the same going. If you
drive in
and want to spend the night, there are numerous hotels within 10
minutes of the house. I've solicited my 17 year old son and a friend to work
as designated drivers and airport shuttle service for tips. If I know you,
we may be able to make some
other kind of arrangements. This will be a gathering of any type of
pilot, builder, enthusiast or wantta be. We'll start in the morning
of the 28th. and carry on until we are all out of lies. There will
be plastic guys here, metal head guys, fabric guys and wood guys.
My house if about 20 miles south of Lexington, KY and about 10
minutes off I-75. Mapquest will get you to within two houses at 1036
Countryside Drive, Richmond, KY 40475.""
As it gets closer, I would like an approximate head count for
refreshments and food.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com
Learn how to choose, serve, and enjoy wine at Wine @ MSN.
http://wine.msn.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | GRT Horizon I EFIS |
There hasn't been any mention of these since they started shipping in
December. Does anyone have one flying yet? Would like to hear comments/oppinions
on
it.
Regards,
Dave
N567A - Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 1/17/2004 8:39:17 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Dougpsr(at)aol.com writes:
> Has anyone else encountered these or other type problems with the Dynon 10?
> I
> am just before ordering 2 units but would like to have more feedback from
> users.
> Thanks in advabce.
>
> Doug Preston
> RV7A N196VA
> BHM
>
I have about 20 hours on mine now with none of these problems showing up.
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, NC N910LL
195 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Bannon" <jack.bannon(at)sympatico.ca> |
Your question about the Laptop, I have yet to get mine hooked up to a laptop and
it works fine. I have the external magnetometer and it is as accurate as
most
mag compasses in airplanes.
Doug... how did you do the calibration (ground only) of the EDC-D10 and get the
magnetic dip angle entered without the lap top? We're just at the stage of installing
the EDC.
We made up a harness and used a small 12v battery and made all the other entries
to the EFIS D-10 with the desk top computer before installing it in the RV.
Very straight forward.
Thanks... Jack Bannon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Schilling Karl <Karl.Schilling(at)ssfhs.org> |
| Subject: | RV List Gas Lift Strut |
McMaster-Carr has them.In the current catalog they are on page 1054. They
have a bleed port that you can release some of the gas till you get what you
need. If you use one make the pres.changes a little at a time because if you
let out too much you can't recharge it!
Karl in Indy RV-8 330 hours
-----Original Message-----
From: smoothweasel(at)juno.com [mailto:smoothweasel(at)juno.com]
Subject: RV-List: RV List Gas Lift Strut
Does anyone here know of a place that i can get information about a gas
filled strut before ordering? I got one from the local parts store and it
is way to hard to compress. I will be using it to support my canopy when
open.
Joel "Weasel" Graber
-4 almost.........!
Brooksville MS
__________________________________
The information contained in this email and any accompanying documents is
intended for the sole use of the recipient to whom it is addressed, and may
contain information that is privileged, confidential, and prohibited from
disclosure under applicable law. If you are not the intended recipient, or
authorized to receive this on behalf of the recipient, you are hereby
notified that any review, use, disclosure, copying, or distribution is
prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient(s), please contact the
sender by e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message. Thank you.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Alternative Strobes |
| From: | "" <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com> |
All,
I'va heard lots about some alternative strobe sources from strobes-n-more, but
I have been haing a hard time understanding what I need in looking at their website.
I am looking to have a setup similar to the Whelan "System 6" (nav/strobe
on wings, position/strobe on tail). I am also considering Aeroflash, but
the only solution I can seem to find is nav/strobe on wings and position on tail
(no 3 strobe power). Anyone have a non-Whelan solution (part numbers would
be great) that is equivalent to System 6?
Also, since i will have nav/strobes and duckworks lights in the wings, do I not
need to drill two separate conduit holes to separate the strobe lines (for noise)?
Right now i am drilling holes low and aft of the 1st lightening hole (per
the recent thread).
Thanks,
Scott Haskins
RV7A Wings
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Proprietary AOA flap switch |
Just saw that McMaster-Carr has nylon split collar rings.
http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/psearch.asp?FAM=shaftcollars&FT_101=139&FT_104=4054&FT_158=40818&FT_937=40805&FT_1012=40804&desc=Two%2DPiece+Nylon+Clamp%2DOn+Collar
I searched for 'split collar' and found nylon ones. I think I will use
these for my flap indicator system.
Gert
C J Heitman wrote:
>
> Jeff,
>
> The 2nd picture on this page: http://my.execpc.com/~cjh/fuse-1.html shows
> the split collar that I made to actuate the AOA microswitch. The round
> collar has a flat on one side. It can be rotated to adjust the point of
> actuation.
>
> Chris Heitman
> Dousman WI
> RV-9A N94ME (flying!)
> http://my.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
>
> Anyone using the Proprietary Systems AOA unit have pictures of their
> flap position switch installation?
>
> Jeff Point
>
> ---
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Magnetmeter compass |
In a message dated 1/14/04 10:24:45 AM Eastern Standard Time, DWENSING
writes:
Since I received no replies to my request (below) for info on the MAG-1, does
anyone have experience with another magnetometer compass in an RV?
> Looking for reference info on use of the Statomaster MAG-1 magnetometer
> compass in an RV. How will does it work? Where did you place the external
> sensor? particularly in an RV6A with slider canopy? Does the 8 degree tilt on
the
> panel present a problem for panel mounting? Any other comments about this
> unit?
> Dale Ensing
> RV6A finishing forever
From: DWENSING(at)aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 10:24:45 EST
Subject: Re: RV-List: Stratomaster MAG-1 compass
Found nothing on this in the archives so......
Looking for reference info on use of the Statomaster MAG-1 magnetometer
compass in an RV. How will does it work? Where did you place the external sensor?
particularly in an RV6A with slider canopy? Does the 8 degree tilt on the panel
present a problem for panel mounting? Any other comments about this unit?
Dale Ensing
RV6A finishing forever
Found nothing on this in the archives so......
Looking for reference info on use of the Statomaster MAG-1 magnetometer compass
in an RV. How will does it work? Where did you place the external sensor? particularly
in an RV6A with slider canopy? Does the 8 degree tilt on the panel
present a problem for panel mounting? Any other comments about this unit?
Dale Ensing
RV6A finishing forever
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
I Just hooked it all up and went flying, The mag compass works great. My
panel is loaded so I never even tried to calibrate it without the external
magnetometer.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Bannon" <jack.bannon(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon EFIS
>
> Your question about the Laptop, I have yet to get mine hooked up to a
laptop and
> it works fine. I have the external magnetometer and it is as
accurate as most
> mag compasses in airplanes.
>
>
> Doug... how did you do the calibration (ground only) of the EDC-D10 and
get the magnetic dip angle entered without the lap top? We're just at the
stage of installing the EDC.
> We made up a harness and used a small 12v battery and made all the other
entries to the EFIS D-10 with the desk top computer before installing it in
the RV. Very straight forward.
>
> Thanks... Jack Bannon
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Sneed <n242ds(at)cox.net> |
for the last couple of months my battery has been barley turning the
started. I hooked up a car battery to my plane and hit the starter and
the starter turned the prop much better. So I am assuming my battery
needs replacing (not sure what kind it is but it is old and has been in
the plane for 4-5 years). I would like to get the best lightest batter
available which it sounds like the oddessy 680 is the way to go. Can
someone tell me if this is the battery I want and where to get it? Also
if another battery is recommended please let me know. I have an RV-6
and is Battery is in a box under the dash. Will the lighter smaller
battery fit in this box?
Thanks for the help!
Jason Sneed
N242DS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve & Denise" <sjhdcl(at)kingston.net> |
For the best prices on PC680 see this website:
https://www.batteries4everything.com/index.html
Click under Products and the Odyssey (not aircraft batteries).
Steve
RV7A
Flying
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jason Sneed" <n242ds(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV-List: New Battery
>
> for the last couple of months my battery has been barley turning the
> started. I hooked up a car battery to my plane and hit the starter and
> the starter turned the prop much better. So I am assuming my battery
> needs replacing (not sure what kind it is but it is old and has been in
> the plane for 4-5 years). I would like to get the best lightest batter
> available which it sounds like the oddessy 680 is the way to go. Can
> someone tell me if this is the battery I want and where to get it? Also
> if another battery is recommended please let me know. I have an RV-6
> and is Battery is in a box under the dash. Will the lighter smaller
> battery fit in this box?
>
> Thanks for the help!
>
>
> Jason Sneed
> N242DS
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Proprietary AOA flap switch |
You might also be interested in the aluminum version for a lot less
money.
6436K73
Two-Piece Clamp-On Collar Aluminum, 1" Bore, 1-3/4" Outside Dia, 1/2"
Width
$ 4.71 Each
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gert
Subject: Re: RV-List: Proprietary AOA flap switch
Just saw that McMaster-Carr has nylon split collar rings.
http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/psearch.asp?FAM=shaftcollars&FT_101=13
9&FT_104=4054&FT_158=40818&FT_937=40805&FT_1012=40804&desc=Two%2DPiece+N
ylon+Clamp%2DOn+Collar
I searched for 'split collar' and found nylon ones. I think I will use
these for my flap indicator system.
Gert
C J Heitman wrote:
>
> Jeff,
>
> The 2nd picture on this page: http://my.execpc.com/~cjh/fuse-1.html
shows
> the split collar that I made to actuate the AOA microswitch. The round
> collar has a flat on one side. It can be rotated to adjust the point
of
> actuation.
>
> Chris Heitman
> Dousman WI
> RV-9A N94ME (flying!)
> http://my.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
>
> Anyone using the Proprietary Systems AOA unit have pictures of their
> flap position switch installation?
>
> Jeff Point
>
> ---
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randy Richter <richterrbb(at)earthlink.net> |
Can anyone tell me why the PC 680 batt seems to be the most popular one,
with the PC 925 being used a fair amount, but no-one has ever mentioned
the PC 625? According to the Odyssey website, except for the HCA, the
625 has more capacity than the 680 (less than the 925) and takes up
about 20% more volume, but weighs over 2 pounds LESS than the 680. What
am I missing?
Here is a reduced version of the info on their site:
PC680(16Ah) PC625(16Ah) PC925(27Ah)
5 sec. hot cranking amps (HCA) 680A 625A 925A
CCA 220A 265A 380A
CA @ 32 F 300A 350A 500A
HCA @ 80 F 370A 440A 625A
Reserve capacity 24min. 27min. 50min.
Length, in. (mm.) 7.27(184.7) 6.70(170.2) 6.64(168.6)
Width, in. (mm.) 3.11(79.0) 3.90(99.1) 7.05(179.0)
Height, in. (mm.) 6.67(169.4) 6.89(175.0) 5.04(128.0)
Weight, lb. (kg.) 15.4(7.0) 13.2(6.0) 26.0(11.8)
IN3 150.8 180.0 235.9
Randy
Steve & Denise wrote:
>
>For the best prices on PC680 see this website:
>
>https://www.batteries4everything.com/index.html
>
>Click under Products and the Odyssey (not aircraft batteries).
>
>Steve
>RV7A
>Flying
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Jason Sneed" <n242ds(at)cox.net>
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: New Battery
>
>
>
>
>>
>>for the last couple of months my battery has been barley turning the
>>started. I hooked up a car battery to my plane and hit the starter and
>>the starter turned the prop much better. So I am assuming my battery
>>needs replacing (not sure what kind it is but it is old and has been in
>>the plane for 4-5 years). I would like to get the best lightest batter
>>available which it sounds like the oddessy 680 is the way to go. Can
>>someone tell me if this is the battery I want and where to get it? Also
>>if another battery is recommended please let me know. I have an RV-6
>>and is Battery is in a box under the dash. Will the lighter smaller
>>battery fit in this box?
>>
>>Thanks for the help!
>>
>>
>>Jason Sneed
>>N242DS
>>
>>
>>
--
Randy Richter
richterrbb(at)earthlink.net
-7QB Kit in hibernation
________________________________________________________________________________
Jason: I think you'll find almost everyone will agree that the PC 680 is the
way to go. It will fit in the RV-6 box but you will need to brace it on both
sides, end and top because the 680 is much smaller than the original box
internal dimensions.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, moving to hangar soon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Garrett, Randy L (C4S)" <Randy.L.Garrett(at)GDC4S.Com> |
| Subject: | Re: Surprising cause of tire shimmy: Defective inner tub |
e
> From: Randy Richter <richterrbb(at)earthlink.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Surprising cause of tire shimmy: Defective inner
tube
> Randy, did you do an autopsy on the offending tube to see what really
> caused the problem?
Your question is a good one.I and several other people who are much more
knowledgeable than I am looked at it. Nothing out of the ordinary was
obvious. I didn't dissect it because, number 1, I didn't think of it. More
to the point, I hope to be able to send it back to the manufacturer to get a
replacement. Tubes are kind of expensive. If I'm able to do that, I'll ask
them what the cause was.
Randy
N4031P
230 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
Hi Jason,
As suggested by another post Http://www.batteries4everything.com Oddessy 680
made by Hawker.At USD $62.55 their's is the best price I have seen and their
service is good.
It will fit in the battery box. You can order it with the optional
Automotive battery posts if your current (pun) cables are equipped that way.
I made brass extensions that made using standard aircraft battery cables
very easy to use.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jason Sneed" <n242ds(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV-List: New Battery
>
> for the last couple of months my battery has been barley turning the
> started. I hooked up a car battery to my plane and hit the starter and
> the starter turned the prop much better. So I am assuming my battery
> needs replacing (not sure what kind it is but it is old and has been in
> the plane for 4-5 years). I would like to get the best lightest batter
> available which it sounds like the oddessy 680 is the way to go. Can
> someone tell me if this is the battery I want and where to get it? Also
> if another battery is recommended please let me know. I have an RV-6
> and is Battery is in a box under the dash. Will the lighter smaller
> battery fit in this box?
>
> Thanks for the help!
>
>
> Jason Sneed
> N242DS
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bavant(at)mchsi.com |
| Subject: | Re: Alternative Strobes |
Scott,
I think I've been in contact with you before, but I do still have Whelen Strobe
power supplies that have been bench checked for proper operation. Ranging from
single light to three light systems, they're money back guaranteed and priced
at $60 for a single, and $80 for all others. Price includes shipping in the
U.S.
Blake
>
>
> All,
>
> I'va heard lots about some alternative strobe sources from strobes-n-more, but
I
> have been haing a hard time understanding what I need in looking at their
> website. I am looking to have a setup similar to the Whelan "System 6"
> (nav/strobe on wings, position/strobe on tail). I am also considering
> Aeroflash, but the only solution I can seem to find is nav/strobe on wings and
> position on tail (no 3 strobe power). Anyone have a non-Whelan solution (part
> numbers would be great) that is equivalent to System 6?
>
> Also, since i will have nav/strobes and duckworks lights in the wings, do I not
> need to drill two separate conduit holes to separate the strobe lines (for
> noise)? Right now i am drilling holes low and aft of the 1st lightening hole
> (per the recent thread).
>
> Thanks,
> Scott Haskins
> RV7A Wings
>
>
> Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
> The most personalized portal on the Web!
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net> |
>
> Can anyone tell me why the PC 680 batt seems to be the most popular one,
> with the PC 925 being used a fair amount, but no-one has ever mentioned
> the PC 625? According to the Odyssey website, except for the HCA, the
> 625 has more capacity than the 680 (less than the 925) and takes up
> about 20% more volume, but weighs over 2 pounds LESS than the 680. What
> am I missing?
>
> Randy
>
I don't think you are missing anything except that the 625 has been
mentioned on the list. I have used both the 625 and the 680. Very similar,
but I prefer the 625 for the reasons you mentioned. The 625 also fits in
the Rv-6 battery box just fine with a few spacers. One of these comes with
screw in posts and the other with threaded posts. Both worked fine with my
old battery leads which were sized for bigger terminals on the Concorde RG.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternative Strobes |
I should have a lower cost strobe solution ready to go soon... My
manufacturer say my new power supply is on it's way to me for final
approval... Keep checking my site for more details...
http://www.creativair.com/
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: <bavant(at)mchsi.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Alternative Strobes
Scott,
I think I've been in contact with you before, but I do still have Whelen
Strobe
power supplies that have been bench checked for proper operation. Ranging
from
single light to three light systems, they're money back guaranteed and
priced
at $60 for a single, and $80 for all others. Price includes shipping in the
U.S.
Blake
>
>
> All,
>
> I'va heard lots about some alternative strobe sources from strobes-n-more,
but I
> have been haing a hard time understanding what I need in looking at their
> website. I am looking to have a setup similar to the Whelan "System 6"
> (nav/strobe on wings, position/strobe on tail). I am also considering
> Aeroflash, but the only solution I can seem to find is nav/strobe on wings
and
> position on tail (no 3 strobe power). Anyone have a non-Whelan solution
(part
> numbers would be great) that is equivalent to System 6?
>
> Also, since i will have nav/strobes and duckworks lights in the wings, do
I not
> need to drill two separate conduit holes to separate the strobe lines (for
> noise)? Right now i am drilling holes low and aft of the 1st lightening
hole
> (per the recent thread).
>
> Thanks,
> Scott Haskins
> RV7A Wings
>
>
> Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
> The most personalized portal on the Web!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Jeff Ethel - Not directly RV related |
In a message dated 1/18/2004 11:09:53 AM Pacific Standard Time,
RV8ter(at)aol.com writes:
I hope someone on this remembers Jeff. I miss him. Does anyone have his
complete set of Warbird Checkride videos? It pains to ask but does anyone
know
just what was finally concluded that happened on that final P-38 checkout
flight?
I heard fuel mismanagement.
GV (RV-6A N1GV flying 675 hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Glasgow" <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Does anyone know or any officially published cross wind limitations for RV-8's?
How about self imposed cross wind limitations from those currently flying?
I've had mine in 15 G 25 mph and it's no fun. Thoughts comments etc.
Steve Glasgow
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronnie Brown" <romott(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Jeff Ethell Crash |
I found this http://www.avweb.com/news/safety/183014-1.html
Tragic!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | FAA Notice of Proposed Rule Making - Draft |
Listers,
As a long time lurker on the RV list and while surfing the rough seas
of the web I have come across what appears to be an early draft of an
NPRM prepared by a Quickie builder. Probably working a second job as a
legislative draftsman for the FAA, I suspect he was still at University
and needed the money. Below is a full quote of the document;
>> NOTICE OF PROPOSED RULEMAKING IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE FEDERAL AVIATION
>> REGULATION ACT
>>
>> 1000.A No pilot or pilots, or person or persons acting on the
>> direction or
>> suggestion or supervision of the pilot or pilots may try, or attempt
>> to try
>> or make or make attempt to try to comprehend or understand any or
>> all, in
>> whole or in part of the herein mentioned Federal Aviation Regulations,
>> except as authorized by the Administrator or an agent appointed by, or
>> inspected by the Administrator.
>>
>> 1000.B If the pilot, or group of associated pilots becomes aware of,
>> or
>> realizes, or detects, or discovers or finds that he, or she, or they,
>> are or
>> have been beginning to understand the Federal Aviation Regulations,
>> they
>> must immediately, within three (3) days notify, in writing, the
>> Administrator.
>>
>> 1000.C Upon receipt of the above mentioned notice of impending
>> comprehension, the Administrator will immediately rewrite the Federal
>> Aviation Regulations in such a manner as to eliminate any further
>> comprehension hazards.
>>
>> 1000.D The Administrator may, at his or her option, require the
>> offending
>> pilot, or pilots, to attend remedial instruction in Federal Aviation
>> Regulations until such time that the pilot is too confused to be
>> capable of
>> understanding anything
>
End Quote.
The draftsman is none other the RV Lists own Dana Overall. His initial
draft doesn't appear to have made the Federal Register in the end,
however he appears to have attempted to provide some sort of rationale
for FAA regulations.
I wish to commend him for his clear sighted draftsmanship (or should
that be draftpersonship).
Chris du Ve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
>
>Does anyone know or any officially published cross wind limitations for
>RV-8's?
>
>How about self imposed cross wind limitations from those currently flying?
>
>I've had mine in 15 G 25 mph and it's no fun. Thoughts comments etc.
>
>Steve Glasgow
I've put mine down in some gawd awful x-winds and really don't know exactly
how bad they were. From the windsock, I would estimate 15 direct. That's
about all I care to deal with. There isn't enough rudder...or pilot
authority for more than that!
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Get a FREE online virus check for your PC here, from McAfee.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | cowl heat shielding |
Re: Heat sheilding the inside of the cowl: I've received the fiberfrax
I ordered, now trying to decide where to put it. It seems that down the
middle of the lower cowl is a good place, as well as at the outlet,
which gets very close to the pipes. Anywhere else it would be needed?
Perhaps on the sides near the exhaust pipes where they exit the cylinder?
Jeff Point
RV-6 finished up little things
Milwaukee WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | cowl heat shielding |
> Re: Heat sheilding the inside of the cowl: I've received
> the fiberfrax
> I ordered, now trying to decide where to put it. It seems
> that down the
> middle of the lower cowl is a good place, as well as at the outlet,
> which gets very close to the pipes. Anywhere else it would
> be needed?
> Perhaps on the sides near the exhaust pipes where they exit
> the cylinder?
Jeff, I would not bother with it in the lower cowl (cooling air exit
area), but it absolutely needs to be in the regions near the pipes where
they come out of the cylinders. I'd cover most of the main cowl where
it encircles the lower cowl, up to about 10 inches away from the lower
cowl. Sort of a large U shape. The temps in the pipes drop very rapidly
as they get further from the action. If you have muff heaters they will
protect any area where they are.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 432 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
I would think
> that the nose wheel airplane could handle those winds 15 G 30
> with a certain amount of easiness.
I would guess that the maximum safe crosswind for my plane is about 15 -
18 knots, and that will require extra speed, maybe 5 knots, on touchdown
to get enough rudder. The roll angle in these landings is a bit
alarming when one has almost full rudder dialed in. Once all the wheels
are down, the crosswind is really not a factor in the -A versions.
Regarding takeoffs, the airplane can handle significantly more right
crosswind than left. If the winds are directly crosswind, I take off in
the direction which gives me right crosswinds.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 432 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | close tolerance bolts |
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
I accidentally reamed a close tolerance hole with the wrong reamer. Oversized it by about 0.005" I plated the NAS bolt to fit the hole using a plating kit from www.caswellplating
it worked great and eliminated the need to go searching for an oversized bolt.
Be sure to bake the bolt after plating to get rid of the hydrogen.
Here's a link to what I did. Scroll about 1/2 way down the page.
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/Construction%20Notes%20for%20the%20tail%20and%20wings.htm
Vince
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randy Richter <richterrbb(at)earthlink.net> |
List,
Strobeguy has the Whelen 4 strobe 90 watt system on sale right now for
249.99. Is this a good price? Good enough to buy now and store for about
a year?
Here's the URL: http://strobeguy.safeshopper.com/70/2046.htm?359
Thanks!
--
Randy Richter
richterrbb(at)earthlink.net
-7QB Kit in hibernation
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Jeff Ethel - Not directly RV related |
----- Original Message -----
From: <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Jeff Ethel - Not directly RV related
>
> In a message dated 1/18/2004 11:09:53 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> RV8ter(at)aol.com writes:
> I hope someone on this remembers Jeff. I miss him. Does anyone have his
> complete set of Warbird Checkride videos? It pains to ask but does anyone
> know
> just what was finally concluded that happened on that final P-38 checkout
> flight?
> I heard fuel mismanagement.
>
>
> GV (RV-6A N1GV flying 675 hrs)
>
GV's right, but I'll add a little...
The short version is that Jeff ran a tank dry on long final, which caused
one engine to stop. The airplane stalled, spun and didn't recover.
Here's a link to the NTSB report:
http://ntsb.gov/ntsb/brief.asp?ev_id 001208X08240&key=1
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
Steve:
Since each RV is built by a different manufacturer, each manufacturer can
set a different crosswind limitation.
Since my RV has been flying over 6 years and has been accross the USA 8
times and north of the Arctic Circle, I have seen my share of crosswinds in
this tailwheel aircraft. On crosscountry trips, I try to pick airports with
crosswind runways just in case. After flying 6 or 8 hours in one day, I
find myself tired and not wanting to deal with crosswind landings.
At the present time, I limit my crosswinds to 20 knots. I have landed once
in 22 gusting 38 knots without destorying the airplane. (Saint George, UT)
I did lose rudder authority with the gust after the airplane was on the
ground but before all the speed was bleed off. Forward speed was about 20
knots. The airplane did get sideways when the gust hit. My very tight two
piece Van's pressure recovery wheelpant on the right side rubbed on the
flexing sidewall of the tire and was ripped off.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,427 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Steve Glasgow" <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: Cross Wind
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2004 07:39:34 -0500
Does anyone know or any officially published cross wind limitations for
RV-8's?
How about self imposed cross wind limitations from those currently flying?
I've had mine in 15 G 25 mph and it's no fun. Thoughts comments etc.
Steve Glasgow
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe lights |
Here's some preliminary info on my strobe solution... Now sure of price
yet, as the power supply is new, and was designed to match or beat Whelen's
Aviation power supply in every way...
http://www.creativair.com/ex-stb/
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Richter" <richterrbb(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Strobe lights
List,
Strobeguy has the Whelen 4 strobe 90 watt system on sale right now for
249.99. Is this a good price? Good enough to buy now and store for about
a year?
Here's the URL: http://strobeguy.safeshopper.com/70/2046.htm?359
Thanks!
--
Randy Richter
richterrbb(at)earthlink.net
-7QB Kit in hibernation
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BBreckenridge(at)att.net |
| Subject: | Jeff Ethel - Not directly RV related |
I just visited the Tillamook Air Museum and purchased the P-38 VHS video. They
mentioned
that more DVD's were expected, but not for 2-3 months. They may be a good connection
to
get the complete set, as they had many more titles on the shelf.
http://www.tillamookair.com/
Bruce Breckenridge
Clackamas, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "WALTER KERR" <kerrjb(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Good Samaritan RV'ers (long non building related) |
Had another dose of great response to help fixing problem at SnF RV flyin last
weekend.
Upon landind on runway 5 at LAL on Friday afternoon, the tower reported to me that
there was smoke from my left tire. The landing felt normal. Tied down in the
grass by the FAA building and camped after pizza on Friday nite (great camping
weather about 50 degrees low).
Have been low key advertising my 6A since am currently out of medical (heart attack,
have to fly with legal copilot) and am getting closer to flying my 9A rotary.
Saturday morning was cleaning the dew off . Had made up a for-sale sign
to stick in the window but had not taped it on yet. It was lying on the glare
shield when a young man, Ted Smith, asked if I was the owner. After a discussion
on the airplane, he asked for a ride and seemed a good prospect since he had
recently sold a 172. Rolled the plane up on the tarmac to look at the left tire
during preflight and everything look OK. Flight was good, landed (so so landing)
and rolled out to taxiway. Called ground and when we started to move the
airplane only turned left. Thought maybe a brake was hanging so let it do a
360, but still would not respond very good to right brake when I realized the
left wing was low. Got out and looked to see a completely flat tire (YUK). Pulled
it off on a cul-de-sac there in the taxiway and walked back to SnF from midfield.
Spoke to Sam James who suggested we talk to Jay Kurtz, owner of a beautiful new
9A and owner of S lakeland airport. Jay reported he had a wheel with tire mounted
that he would loan me. Wow, now it doesn't get much better than that. Jay
drove me home to S lakeland and picked up the spare. As we were parking on the
east side of the FAA building, I could not spot my airplane. Jay said it's sitting
right there in front of the building, Wow again. Never found out the good
Samaritan who did that, apparently it was the tall young man who handed me
the two plugs from the nose wheel fairing. Someone reported he was a local RV8
builder who towed it in with a dolly.
Jody Edwards, an RV4 builder, and Ernie Kerr (no known kin to Bernie Kerr and also
a 9A builder) were human jacks who got down on all fours and put there back
under the spar to hold the airplane up not just once but twice since I failed
to get the spacer out of the old wheel. With the wheel fairing back on it was
an uneventful flight home thanks to a lot of timely help from the RV community!
You just can't beat it, try a flat tire in the middle of the runway in your
spamcan and see what kind of help $$$$ might show up tomorrow.
Oh, and by the way Ted gave me a deposit on the plane.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
I landed (and I use the term loosely...) my RV-6 at Rosemond once
where the sock was 90 deg and out straight. I think that means 15
kts or over. No weather info at the uncontrolled field.
I had just enough rudder to keep it straight with a little to spare.
I briefed my passenger not that if we walked away with out hurting
the airplane, it was going to be a GOOD landing, no matter the
touchdown....also briefed that if I couldn't hold heading, we'd land
a an alternative airport.
Glenn said something about nose draggers being easier to land, and
I'll agree that once your on the ground it's easier, but while your
flying down final, if you can't hold runway heading with the rudder,
it DON'T matter where the little wheel is!
Laird
RV-6 850 hrs
>
>Steve:
>
>Since each RV is built by a different manufacturer, each manufacturer can
>set a different crosswind limitation.
>
>Since my RV has been flying over 6 years and has been accross the USA 8
>times and north of the Arctic Circle, I have seen my share of crosswinds in
>this tailwheel aircraft. On crosscountry trips, I try to pick airports with
>crosswind runways just in case. After flying 6 or 8 hours in one day, I
>find myself tired and not wanting to deal with crosswind landings.
>
>At the present time, I limit my crosswinds to 20 knots. I have landed once
>in 22 gusting 38 knots without destorying the airplane. (Saint George, UT)
>I did lose rudder authority with the gust after the airplane was on the
>ground but before all the speed was bleed off. Forward speed was about 20
>knots. The airplane did get sideways when the gust hit. My very tight two
>piece Van's pressure recovery wheelpant on the right side rubbed on the
>flexing sidewall of the tire and was ripped off.
>
>
>Gary A. Sobek
>"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
>1,427 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
>http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
>
>
>----Original Message Follows----
>From: "Steve Glasgow" <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com>
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Cross Wind
>Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2004 07:39:34 -0500
>
>
>Does anyone know or any officially published cross wind limitations for
>RV-8's?
>
>How about self imposed cross wind limitations from those currently flying?
>
>I've had mine in 15 G 25 mph and it's no fun. Thoughts comments etc.
>
>Steve Glasgow
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Stinson or GT-500 for sale |
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
"RV-List Digest (E-mail)"
I need to sell my beautiful 1946 Stinson so I can finish my Rocket project. My
partner, Phil McCutchan, wants to buy me out, but first he needs to sell his
1994 GT-500.
Obviously we have a problem here. The way we're gonna solve it is that whichever
plane sells first, the other one goes to Phil.
If you or someone you know are interested, you can find more info about the planes
at:
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/Photo%20Gallery%20Page%202.htm
One of them has to go! A finder's fee will be sent to anyone who sends me the
buying customer!!!
Thanks,
Vince Frazier
3965 Caborn Road
Mount Vernon, IN 47620
812-464-1839 work
812-985-7309 home
1946 Stinson, NC97535, FOR SALE
F-1H Rocket, N540VF, Crazy Horse
<http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/page1.html>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
I'd say 20 kt crosswind component with minimal gusts would be about my
comfort limit. The -8 handles xwind operations well, IMO.
I know of no written limitation... but then again, I doubt seriously if Van
would specify anything being experimental.
2
Bryan Jones -8
www.lonestarsquadron.com
Houston, Texas
> >
> >Does anyone know or any officially published cross wind limitations for
> >RV-8's?
> >
> >How about self imposed cross wind limitations from those currently
>flying?
> >
> >I've had mine in 15 G 25 mph and it's no fun. Thoughts comments etc.
> >
> >Steve Glasgow
>
>I've put mine down in some gawd awful x-winds and really don't know exactly
>how bad they were. From the windsock, I would estimate 15 direct. That's
>about all I care to deal with. There isn't enough rudder...or pilot
>authority for more than that!
>
>Brian Denk
>RV8 N94BD
>
Find high-speed net deals comparison-shop your local providers here.
https://broadband.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 1/19/2004 3:23:04 PM Eastern Standard Time,
rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com writes:
> I'd say 20 kt crosswind component with minimal gusts would be about my
> comfort limit. The -8 handles xwind operations well, IMO.
>
I have to concur ... I have made several trips and landed with a 20 kt and
maybe a little more gust but I have to admit I am relieved when I am on the
ground and all is well. As always ... time in type really helps. I am much
better now in a crosswind than I was the first 50 hours.
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, NC N910LL
195 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Jeff Rose - modified automotive plugs |
There has been recent posts in regards to switching from automotive plugs to the
aircraft plugs with Jeff Rose igniton. A fellow RV6'er has used automotive
plugs with his Rose ignition for years and plug life has been excellent.
He explained that the automotive plugs have to be modified because they do not
reach deep enough into the head. He turns the plug in a lathe and removes some
of the shoulder of the plug which allows it to go deeper into the head.
I plan on doing the same since I have the Rose ignition and wondered if those with
problems had tried this approach?
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
RV6 N296JC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow(at)hotmail.com> |
Anyone know of an RV using a Continental O-300?
Would the engine mount for the O-320 be the same?
The O-300 is out of a 1965 C-172.
ERic--
GodSpeed Aviation
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
> >I seem to remember some discussion about what happens when
> you land an
> >RV in water on the list a couple of weeks ago....
> >
> >Looks like it happened to some poor soul near Kauai.
> Fortunately, the
> >Coast Guard did a great job and fished him out. Story mentioned it
> >flipped on it's head and submerged.
Too bad, but a good outcome. It does make one think about having the
canopy "jettisonable" as Van's original design had on the 6. These
things often flip during off airport landings, and getting rid of the
canopy on the glide down might be a good idea. I have the slider, and
as someone recently posted, replacing the two roller mount bolts with
pull pins certainly gives one another option. When I've flown over
water, I've contemplated exactly that problem. It seems that if the
front of the canopy lifts up, it should go ballistic and clear the
vertical fin. Not a certain thing, though, but neither is it certain
that the canopy won't jamb after a forced landing or ditching.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 432 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon and Marge" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | liquid cooled engines |
Listers: The current issue of Sport Aviation has an article on liquid
cooling that gives as a reference a book titled "Aerodynamics of
Propulsion" by authors Kuchemann, Dietrich and Weber. I would greatly
admire to own a copy but an internet search turned up nothing. If
anyone out there knows of a copy for sale, please advise me where it can
be found. Thank you very much.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie & Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: liquid cooled engines |
Gordon and Marge wrote:
>
>
>Listers: The current issue of Sport Aviation has an article on liquid
>cooling that gives as a reference a book titled "Aerodynamics of
>Propulsion" by authors Kuchemann, Dietrich and Weber. I would greatly
>admire to own a copy but an internet search turned up nothing. If
>anyone out there knows of a copy for sale, please advise me where it can
>be found. Thank you very much.
>
>Gordon Comfort
>N363GC
>
If you find a supplier, I'd like one as well. According to my 'sources',
it's out of print & very expensive when you find one on the used book
market.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: liquid cooled engines |
It looks as though there may be a used on on Amazon.com.uk:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/tg/detail/offer-listing/-/B0000CIKRE/used/ref=sdp_usedb/026-4711604-3338025
Then again, i could have already been sold.
Dick Tasker, 90573
Charlie & Tupper England wrote:
>
>Gordon and Marge wrote:
>
>
>
>>
>>
>>Listers: The current issue of Sport Aviation has an article on liquid
>>cooling that gives as a reference a book titled "Aerodynamics of
>>Propulsion" by authors Kuchemann, Dietrich and Weber. I would greatly
>>admire to own a copy but an internet search turned up nothing. If
>>anyone out there knows of a copy for sale, please advise me where it can
>>be found. Thank you very much.
>>
>>Gordon Comfort
>>N363GC
>>
>>
>>
>If you find a supplier, I'd like one as well. According to my 'sources',
>it's out of print & very expensive when you find one on the used book
>market.
>
>Charlie
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Japundza <bjapundza(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Jeff Rose - modified automotive plugs |
Jerry,
I've tried some different plugs; best results by far have been Denso W27EMR-C (these
are plugs that Klaus S. recommends for use with the lightspeed ignition.)
You will have to get a set of the silicon-bronze adapters. With the Autolite
386 plugs Jeff used to recommend I saw excessive electrode erosion after a
few hours; I replaced them each oil change. It ran ok on those plugs. Running
the REM-37BY's on the electronic ignition, I had a chronic problem with ignition
noise, and I never liked the way the wires were attached to the plugs. My
last annual I replaced the Denso plugs but didn't need to...they only cost $2-something.
I've been very happy with these plugs. No noise, no wear, no problems.
I don't have any experience with the plugs that need to be turned, might
be good for a wife-excuse to buy a lathe...:) just ask my wife about the big
Bridgeport cnc thingy in my shop...
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ 500+ hours
F1 QB under const.
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
| Subject: | Jeff Rose - modified automotive plugs |
Just an FYI for those who may be wondering why Jeff Rose had not thought
of/done this ... I think that Jeff himself used to "turn" the auto plugs on
a lathe (for the reasons your friend mentions) and supply them. He
subsequently decided to recommend the 37BYs even though he was selling the
"special" auto 386s (I think).
Not a "plug" for either approach, nor am I trying to "spark" any debate. :-)
Just FYI.
Your mileage may vary.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jerry Calvert
> Sent: Monday, January 19, 2004 4:17 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Jeff Rose - modified automotive plugs
>
>
> There has been recent posts in regards to switching from
> automotive plugs to the aircraft plugs with Jeff Rose igniton. A
> fellow RV6'er has used automotive plugs with his Rose ignition
> for years and plug life has been excellent.
>
> He explained that the automotive plugs have to be modified
> because they do not reach deep enough into the head. He turns
> the plug in a lathe and removes some of the shoulder of the plug
> which allows it to go deeper into the head.
>
> I plan on doing the same since I have the Rose ignition and
> wondered if those with problems had tried this approach?
>
> Jerry Calvert
> Edmond Ok
> RV6 N296JC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
At 14:35 2004-01-19, you wrote:
>
>Anyone know of an RV using a Continental O-300?
>
>Would the engine mount for the O-320 be the same?
>
>The O-300 is out of a 1965 C-172.
>
>ERic--
>GodSpeed Aviation
Not even close and too heavy as well. 6 cylinders would be smooth but it's
only rated at 145 hp. You would need to change the accessory case to put a
fuel pump on it. I can't think of a low wing plane that had that engine in it.
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
13B in gestation mode
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: liquid cooled engines |
At 15:44 2004-01-19, you wrote:
>
>
>Listers: The current issue of Sport Aviation has an article on liquid
>cooling that gives as a reference a book titled "Aerodynamics of
>Propulsion" by authors Kuchemann, Dietrich and Weber. I would greatly
>admire to own a copy but an internet search turned up nothing. If
>anyone out there knows of a copy for sale, please advise me where it can
>be found. Thank you very much.
>
>Gordon Comfort
>N363GC
That book is worth its weight in gold on the market. You'll be lucky to
find one even listed.
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
13B in gestation mode
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Will & Lynda Allen" <linenwool(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | dremel cutting attachment |
What dremel cutting attachment is good for making the funky shaped hole in
the rear spar reinforcement where the aileron pushrod comes through?
Thanks,
-Will Allen
North Bend, WA.
RV-8 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
I too had the same problem with the Dynon and the noise breaking squelch. I
think I may have been the first to contact Dynon last summer as they had not
heard of it before. I ended up re-routing the wires away from the other
aiframe wiring and the issue went away. I also tried shielded wire and grounding
it, but it actually seemed to make it worse when grounded. Ultimately I
rerouted the wires and have not had the problem since. I'm guessing 40 flight
hours
or so.
I love the Dynon, yes had some problems, but I still feel it is a great unit
for the money!
-Mike Kraus
N223RV RV-4 Fling
N213RV RV-10 Empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Ditching an RV |
Other posts have suggested that with an RV-6 slider, unlocking the canopy
in-flight results in the canopy sliding aft a few inches and then remaining
there with the airloads preventing it from moving farther aft and resisting
efforts to close it fully to relock it. (Perhaps someone who has done this
intentionally or otherwise could confirm this).
The question remains if there would sufficient upward force in such a
situation to lift the canopy upwards assuming the pins that replaced the
roller bolts were pulled. (Yet another question, would it be realistic to
expect to pull the pins in such a case, considering the friction loads on
the pins that would likely be present ?) Then there is the geometry and
strength of the aft centre canopy slider block to consider; assuming the
front edge of the canopy was lifted up in the slip stream would it reliably
depart the aircraft or get struck half way still barring exit from the
aircraft (and possibly warped and jammed into some intermediate position.)
Years ago I learned to fly in a DHC-1 Chipmunk, which has a similar
configuration to an RV-8 with a sliding bubble canopy. In the Chipmunk, just
unlocking the canopy in the air would move it slightly aft where it would
remain - effectively blocking exit from the cockpit. (The military made us
wear chutes - so this was of some concern). The designer's answer was to add
a folding metal panel perhaps 18" x 18" to the aft end of the canopy which
was hinged at lower aft edge so that it would open about 60 degs like a
clamshell. It was spring-loaded to the open position but was held closed by
a catch at its forward edge so that it remained flush with the aft end of
the canopy (the whole panel was contoured to match the canopy fairly
closely). If required, an emergency canopy opening handle was pulled which
released the normal canopy locks and also pulled the catch on the panel
which was opened by the spring after which airloads took over and the drag
of the panel was enough to pull the canopy fully back. Then you stood up and
made like a Mustang or Spitfire pilot and dived over the trailing edge of
the wing, etc.
This sounds like it would be a doable project for the slider canopy RV
series of airplanes. The folding panel would have to be sized and mounted
properly to get the desired opening force and then there would be some
detail design required to provide a latch that would open but be
safe-guarded against inadvertent operation and such.
For a photo of what is required try
http://www.blackflyaero.com/Chipmunk%20Gallery/ and click on the upper LH
thumbnail photo. The panel is at the aft end of the canopy. BTW, only the
Canadian built ones with the true bubble canopy seem to have had this
feature.
Jim Oke
RV-3
RV-6A
Winnipeg, MB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Ditching an RV
>
> > >I seem to remember some discussion about what happens when
> > you land an
> > >RV in water on the list a couple of weeks ago....
> > >
> > >Looks like it happened to some poor soul near Kauai.
> > Fortunately, the
> > >Coast Guard did a great job and fished him out. Story mentioned it
> > >flipped on it's head and submerged.
>
> Too bad, but a good outcome. It does make one think about having the
> canopy "jettisonable" as Van's original design had on the 6. These
> things often flip during off airport landings, and getting rid of the
> canopy on the glide down might be a good idea. I have the slider, and
> as someone recently posted, replacing the two roller mount bolts with
> pull pins certainly gives one another option. When I've flown over
> water, I've contemplated exactly that problem. It seems that if the
> front of the canopy lifts up, it should go ballistic and clear the
> vertical fin. Not a certain thing, though, but neither is it certain
> that the canopy won't jamb after a forced landing or ditching.
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> RV6-A N66AP 432 hours
> www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: dremel cutting attachment |
I sketched in the shape, drilled series of close spaced #40 holes just in
side the line and then used a small abrasive disk to free the cut away part.
Used a variety of round and half-round files after that.
If possible try and get a look at a finished aircraft and copy the shape of
this cut-out. The RV-6 plans just show a simple square hole when a much
larger curved teardrop shape is actually needed.
Jim oke
RV-3, RV-6A
YWG, MB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Will & Lynda Allen" <linenwool(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: dremel cutting attachment
>
> What dremel cutting attachment is good for making the funky shaped hole in
> the rear spar reinforcement where the aileron pushrod comes through?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> -Will Allen
>
> North Bend, WA.
>
> RV-8 wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: dremel cutting attachment |
I used a Unibit to start the hole, and then I think I used a 1/2" sanding
drum...or maybe it was a 1/4" drum. Something like that.
Hope this helps,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Will & Lynda Allen" <linenwool(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: dremel cutting attachment
>
> What dremel cutting attachment is good for making the funky shaped hole in
> the rear spar reinforcement where the aileron pushrod comes through?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> -Will Allen
>
> North Bend, WA.
>
> RV-8 wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
The Cont. 0-300s were used on the Swift low wing aircraft to replace
the 125 Hp. version which was the same physical size.
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Nolan" <jamespnolan(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Tailwheel Cross Winds |
The RV-4 can take a 25kt. direct cross wind. The wing is down and the rudder
is to the floor. Also, prayers are being said at that time.
Jim Nolan
N444JN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: dremel cutting attachment |
In a message dated 1/20/04 12:51:11 AM Eastern Standard Time,
linenwool(at)comcast.net writes:
> What dremel cutting attachment is good for making the funky shaped hole in
> the rear spar reinforcement where the aileron pushrod comes through?
>
Dramel makes a cutter attachment that is about 3/8" diameter that work very
well for such as the aileron push rod holes and the flap rod hole. You must
still make the initial starting hole with drill or Unibit. Not sure what it's
proper name is but can be purchased at places like Home Depot.
Dale Ensing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nebr RV-8" <nebrrv8(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Dynon Remote compass Module Location in RV-8 |
Hi Gang,
I'm installing a Dynon in my RV-8. What is the best place to mount the
remote compass module? I was thinking back in the tail under the
vertical stab. Does this make sense? As always this list has been a
great help.
Thanks,
Jim Muegge
RV-8 Paint and final misc. items
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)QCBC.ORG> |
No need to change the accessory case as a fuel pump pad was on the right
front of the engine for the Cessna 170.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael McGee" <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV Engine
>
> At 14:35 2004-01-19, you wrote:
> >
> >Anyone know of an RV using a Continental O-300?
> >
> >Would the engine mount for the O-320 be the same?
> >
> >The O-300 is out of a 1965 C-172.
> >
> >ERic--
> >GodSpeed Aviation
>
>
> Not even close and too heavy as well. 6 cylinders would be smooth but
it's
> only rated at 145 hp. You would need to change the accessory case to put
a
> fuel pump on it. I can't think of a low wing plane that had that engine
in it.
>
>
> Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
> 13B in gestation mode
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | big tail, little tail |
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
SNIP Speaking of Xwinds, I just posted some recently taken photos of my two RV6's
parked tail to tail.
This is to highlight the difference between the old "short" tail, and the
new taller "RV9" tail. SNIP
This thread got me thinking about the differences between the big tailed Stinson
108-3 and the small tailed Stinson 108-1 that I own. Both are tailwheel for
those who might not know.
The big tailed 108-3 is more stable in the air (no fishtailing whatsoever) but
taxiing in a crosswind is absolutely awful. On this airplane, I'll take the small
tail version everytime, even if it does fishtail (barely) in the air.
I've never noticed actually running out of rudder with either one. I think the
big tail was done so you could take extended naps on crosscountry flights as
the big tailed Stinsons are very stable. Or maybe for floats???
Does this relate to RV tails in any way? Maybe. Maybe not.
Vince
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rich Chiappe <service(at)skytecair.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 122-compatible Prestolite starters |
On 1/10, Mark wrote:
> My O-320 has a 122 tooth ring gear and last nite I bolted up a geared
> prestolite borrowed from a friend to see if it runs better than my
direct-drive
> Delco. Both starters have nine teeth on the pinions, but the geared
starter only
> engages about a third of the depth of the ring gear teeth (no, I'm
not going to
> run it!) Does this indicate that the geared motor came from a 149 tooth
> engine?
Remember, the number of teeth on a Bendix (or drive gear) does not
determine compatibilty, it's the "pitch" of the gear that's important. A
122-tooth ring gear is of 10/12 pitch (a 149 is 12/14). So look for
these factors when matching starters to ring gears, not tooth count per
se. You'll find many lightweight startes actually have a completely
different tooth count on their drive gears than the original Prestolites
they replace.
Here is a list I've compiled so far of 122-tooth compatible Prestolite
starters:
Model Volts Teeth ENGINES
MHJ-4004 24 122 720
MHJ-4005 24 122 720
MHB-4015 24 122 235
MMU-4001 24 122 235
MZ-4204 12 122 235, 290, 320
Similarly, these are 149-tooth ring gear compatible Prestolite starters:
MHB-4001 24 149 320, 340, 360, 540
MHB-4002 24 149 TIO-541-E
MHB-4003 24 149 360
MHB-4005 24 149 TIGO-541
MHB-4007 24 149 540
MHB-4008 24 149 TVO-435, VO-435
MHB-4009 24 149 LTIO-540
MHB-4010 24 149 320, 340, 360, 540
MHB-4011 24 149 TIO-541-E
MHB-4012 24 149 360
MHB-4013 24 149 540
MHB-4014 24 149 LTIO-540
MHB-4016 24 149 320, 340, 360, 540
MHB-4017 24 149 TIO-541-E
MHB-4018 24 149 540
MHB-4019 24 149 360
MHB-4020 24 149 360
MZ-4205 12 149 360
MZ-4206 12 149 235, 290, 320, 340, 360, 540
MZ-4207 12 149 TIO-541-A
MZ-4216 12 149 LIO-320, LO-360, LIO-360
MZ-4217 12 149 360
MZ-4218 12 149 235, 290, 320, 340, 360, 540
MZ-4219 12 149 TIO-541-A
MZ-4220 12 149 LIO-320, LO-360, LIO-360
MZ-4221 12 149 360
MZ-4222 12 149 235, 290, 320, 340, 360, 540
MZ-4223 12 149 TIO-541A
MZ-4224 12 149 320
MZ-4225 12 149 360
MZ-4226 12 149 360
Hope this helps,
- Rich Chiappe
Sky-Tec
800-476-7896
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Grove RV-8 Aftermarket Landing Gear |
Anyone have any experience they can pass on with these landing gear? I'm
seriously considering retrofitting and would like some feedback from users.
Considering the fact that I'm only running with 160 hp, I'm thinking the
17-lb weight savings may be worth the cost?
Thanks
Bryan Jones -8
www.LoneStarSquadron.com
Houston, Texas
Check out the coupons and bargains on MSN Offers!
http://shopping.msn.com/softcontent/softcontent.aspx?scmId=1418
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cammie Patch" <cammie(at)sunvalley.net> |
| Subject: | dremel cutting attachment |
The cutting bit that Dale refers to works wonderfully to cut out this hole.
A word of warning however, drill the initial hole out as large as possible,
and do everything you can to ensure that the bit is not in contact with the
material more than about a third to a half of the way around the cutter
head. It will bind up can have unpleasant results.
Cammie
Bring on that Fuse kit!
In a message dated 1/20/04 12:51:11 AM Eastern Standard Time,
linenwool(at)comcast.net writes:
> What dremel cutting attachment is good for making the funky shaped hole in
> the rear spar reinforcement where the aileron pushrod comes through?
>
Dremel makes a cutter attachment that is about 3/8" diameter that work very
well for such as the aileron push rod holes and the flap rod hole. You must
still make the initial starting hole with drill or Unibit. Not sure what
it's
proper name is but can be purchased at places like Home Depot.
Dale Ensing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RE: [rv8list] RV Engine + Turbocharged |
Thanks for all the responses!
My plan is to turbocharge to 200 bhp and use electronic FI & Ign.
I was looking at the O-300 because I would like to use a 6 cyl over a large
4cyl.
Any suggestions?
ERic--
GodSpeed Aviation
RV-8A
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: [rv8list] RV Engine
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2004 17:35:58 -0500
Anyone know of an RV using a Continental O-300?
Would the engine mount for the O-320 be the same?
The O-300 is out of a 1965 C-172.
ERic--
GodSpeed Aviation
Learn how to choose, serve, and enjoy wine at Wine @ MSN.
http://wine.msn.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dwight Frye <dwight(at)openweave.org> |
| Subject: | Re: dremel cutting attachment |
I've used a #115 High Speed Cutter to get that job done. As mentioned already
it can be found in the aviation tools section of Home Depot. I also started by
using my unibit to open things up as much as possible to avoid the binding
behavior mentioned by Cammie. This bit is great, though, in that you can use
it to "whittle" away aluminum from even heavy stock.
-- Dwight
On Tue Jan 20 10:21:45 2004, Cammie Patch wrote :
>The cutting bit that Dale refers to works wonderfully to cut out this hole.
>A word of warning however, drill the initial hole out as large as possible,
>and do everything you can to ensure that the bit is not in contact with the
>material more than about a third to a half of the way around the cutter
>head. It will bind up can have unpleasant results.
>Cammie
>Bring on that Fuse kit!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Schilling Karl <Karl.Schilling(at)ssfhs.org> |
A large number of the Swift's had the 0-300. the only 170 to have a fuel
pump on it was the first year the rag wing. Check with the Swift assoc. for
more info on these engines.
-----Original Message-----
From: Cy Galley [mailto:cgalley(at)QCBC.ORG]
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV Engine
No need to change the accessory case as a fuel pump pad was on the right
front of the engine for the Cessna 170.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael McGee" <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV Engine
>
> At 14:35 2004-01-19, you wrote:
> >
> >Anyone know of an RV using a Continental O-300?
> >
> >Would the engine mount for the O-320 be the same?
> >
> >The O-300 is out of a 1965 C-172.
> >
> >ERic--
> >GodSpeed Aviation
>
>
> Not even close and too heavy as well. 6 cylinders would be smooth but
it's
> only rated at 145 hp. You would need to change the accessory case to put
a
> fuel pump on it. I can't think of a low wing plane that had that engine
in it.
>
>
> Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
> 13B in gestation mode
>
>
__________________________________
The information contained in this email and any accompanying documents is
intended for the sole use of the recipient to whom it is addressed, and may
contain information that is privileged, confidential, and prohibited from
disclosure under applicable law. If you are not the intended recipient, or
authorized to receive this on behalf of the recipient, you are hereby
notified that any review, use, disclosure, copying, or distribution is
prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient(s), please contact the
sender by e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message. Thank you.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RE: [rv8list] RV Engine + Turbocharged |
Eric-
I do have a suggestion.
Power your own design however you want but please do not call it an RV.
B.Clary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Perry" <eperry(at)san.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Grove RV-8 Aftermarket Landing Gear |
I have the first generation non-airfoil shape and I love them. They are
stiffer than the steel gear and don't bounce. They are steadier on the
ground and the customer service is excellent. They are thicker than the
steel and will require a new set of intersection fairings top and bottom. If
you get the airfoil shape you only need the top and bottom fairings. If you
get the non airfoil you will need top and bottom plus the gear leg fairing.
I got mine from Team Rocket and they fit good. You will have to shorten them
though. Are you sure that you want to change your steel gear out - 'cause
I'm thinking about all the new words you will have to use to get to the
bolts in the gear tower....
Good Luck and if you have any questions Robbie Grove is very helpful,
Ed Perry
RV-8 Grove Gear
----- Original Message -----
From: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Grove RV-8 Aftermarket Landing Gear
>
> Anyone have any experience they can pass on with these landing gear? I'm
> seriously considering retrofitting and would like some feedback from
users.
> Considering the fact that I'm only running with 160 hp, I'm thinking the
> 17-lb weight savings may be worth the cost?
>
> Thanks
>
> Bryan Jones -8
> www.LoneStarSquadron.com
> Houston, Texas
>
> Check out the coupons and bargains on MSN Offers!
> http://shopping.msn.com/softcontent/softcontent.aspx?scmId=1418
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
| Subject: | big tail, little tail |
Either Tail is a PITA when taxiing in a x-wind especially when you got a
Maule tailwheel installed.
Mike Nellis
RV-6 Fuselage N699BM
1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K
http://bmnellis.com
*** -----Original Message-----
*** From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
*** [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
*** Frazier, Vincent A
*** Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 2004 9:16 AM
*** To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
*** Subject: RV-List: big tail, little tail
***
***
***
***
*** SNIP Speaking of Xwinds, I just posted some recently taken
*** photos of my two RV6's parked tail to tail.
***
*** This is to highlight the difference between the old "short"
*** tail, and the new taller "RV9" tail. SNIP
***
*** This thread got me thinking about the differences between
*** the big tailed Stinson 108-3 and the small tailed Stinson
*** 108-1 that I own. Both are tailwheel for those who might not know.
***
*** The big tailed 108-3 is more stable in the air (no
*** fishtailing whatsoever) but taxiing in a crosswind is
*** absolutely awful. On this airplane, I'll take the small
*** tail version everytime, even if it does fishtail (barely)
*** in the air.
***
*** I've never noticed actually running out of rudder with
*** either one. I think the big tail was done so you could
*** take extended naps on crosscountry flights as the big
*** tailed Stinsons are very stable. Or maybe for floats???
***
*** Does this relate to RV tails in any way? Maybe. Maybe not.
***
*** Vince
***
***
*** =============
*** Matronics Forums.
*** =============
*** =============
*** =============
***
***
***
***
***
***
***
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: [rv8list] RV Engine + Turbocharged |
UFOBUCK(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>Eric-
>
>I do have a suggestion.
>
>Power your own design however you want but please do not call it an RV.
>
>B.Clary
>
>
>
Pretty presumptious on your part! Well, replying to an email to Eric
may be presumptious on my part too. What you power an airplane with has
nothing to do with the aircraft design ...... performance maybe .....
but the design is the same. Eric may disagree, but I, for one, wouldn't
accept your suggestion.
Linn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Cours <rv-j(at)moriarti.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Ditching an RV |
Hi, everyone -
Part of the checklist I learned for forced landings in a Skyhawk is to
pop open a door on short final, in case a crash bends the airframe and
jams the doors shut. Would the same idea be useful for an RV with a
slider canopy -- if you're about to make a forced landing, pop the
canopy latch on short final? It sounds like the airspeeds would be low
enough to let you safely do that. What's not clear to me is whether the
canopy of the RV-8 that ditched was a tilt-up or a slider, and, if it
was a slider, whether water pressure interfered with releasing the latch
or the impact jammed the sliders.
- Jeff C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RE: [rv8list] RV Engine |
B. Clary,
Not sure what your point is, the RV is "Experimental".
I'm an engine designer by profession and that's where I enjoy
"Experimenting".
What part of your RV is Experimental?
ERic--
GodSpeed Aviation
----Original Message Follows----
From: UFOBUCK(at)aol.com
Eric-
I do have a suggestion.
Power your own design however you want but please do not call it an RV.
B.Clary
Scope out the new MSN Plus Internet Software optimizes dial-up to the max!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Colt Seavers" <rv7maker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RE: [rv8list] RV Engine |
B. Clary,
I can only assume that your motivation for the previous post has to do with
liabiltiy and insurance. Don't let the laywers and insurance brokers take
the wind out of your sails. They have screwed up everyting from health care
to general aviation, don't let them take the fun out of your experimental.
-Ross
Rv-7 Finishing, lots of mods
>From: "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: UFOBUCK(at)aol.com
>Subject: RV-List: RE: [rv8list] RV Engine
>Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 14:01:40 -0500
>
>
>B. Clary,
>
>Not sure what your point is, the RV is "Experimental".
>
>I'm an engine designer by profession and that's where I enjoy
>"Experimenting".
>
>What part of your RV is Experimental?
>
>ERic--
>GodSpeed Aviation
>
>----Original Message Follows----
>From: UFOBUCK(at)aol.com
>
>Eric-
>
>I do have a suggestion.
>
>Power your own design however you want but please do not call it an RV.
>
>B.Clary
>
>Scope out the new MSN Plus Internet Software optimizes dial-up to the max!
>
>
Get a FREE online virus check for your PC here, from McAfee.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie & Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: [rv8list] RV Engine + Turbocharged |
In the interest of bringing back some experimental the to the
'experimental' RV's, I'd like to encourage you. FWIW, I believe that
there are some guys flying pumpless Lycs (H series?) on RV's using
redundant electric pumps. If you are going to use electronic injection
on the engine, you will likely need 2 high pressure electric pumps
anyway & a built-in mechanical pump would be useless.
Have you talked to Tracy Crook at Real World Solutions about an
injection/ignition controller?
Charlie
Eric Parlow wrote:
>
>Thanks for all the responses!
>
>My plan is to turbocharge to 200 bhp and use electronic FI & Ign.
>
>I was looking at the O-300 because I would like to use a 6 cyl over a large
>4cyl.
>
>Any suggestions?
>
>ERic--
>GodSpeed Aviation
>RV-8A
>
>
>----Original Message Follows----
>From: "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow(at)hotmail.com>
>To: rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [rv8list] RV Engine
>Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2004 17:35:58 -0500
>
>Anyone know of an RV using a Continental O-300?
>
>Would the engine mount for the O-320 be the same?
>
>The O-300 is out of a 1965 C-172.
>
>ERic--
>GodSpeed Aviation
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie & Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: dremel cutting attachment |
Will & Lynda Allen wrote:
>
>What dremel cutting attachment is good for making the funky shaped hole in
>the rear spar reinforcement where the aileron pushrod comes through?
>
>
>Thanks,
>
>
>-Will Allen
>
>North Bend, WA.
>
>RV-8 wings
>
I used a unibit first to remove about 1/2 the metal, then a small die
grinder (a little more grunt than a dremel) with an egg-shaped burr,
diamond cutting pattern to enlarge the hole to finish size & shape.
There is a proper technical name for this cutting tool, and I'm sure
someone else on the list will supply it since I can't remember the name.
This is not a cutting wheel, but the type of tool used enlarge
intake/exhaust ports in engines.
I hope this makes at least a little sense.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: dremel cutting attachment |
It is sometimes called a "burr".
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel Cross Winds |
>
> The RV-4 can take a 25kt. direct cross wind. The wing is down and the
rudder
> is to the floor. Also, prayers are being said at that time.
> Jim Nolan
> N444JN
>
There are landings, and there is "Crash and Recover." A 25 kt x-wind in an
RV, no matter where the 3rd wheel is, is not a landing, it is a "crash and
recover." Just because it can be done, does not mean it should be done, or
that it is smart or safe. I too have done similar stunts, well beyond the
capability of the airplanes involved. (you are free to infer what you wish
from the implication of that statement, guilty is my plea)
My guess is, if the RV's were certified, they would have a 15-17 knot x-wind
limit, and the tailwheel and trikes would be the same. The RV-6 might be a
little less, I do not like the way the rudder gets mushy at higher angles of
attack. A properly executed landing in a 15 knot x-wind will require nearly
full deflection of both the rudder and aileron.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson(at)consolidated.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: [rv8list] RV Engine |
Eric Parlow wrote:
>
>B. Clary,
>
>Not sure what your point is, the RV is "Experimental".
>
>I'm an engine designer by profession and that's where I enjoy
>"Experimenting".
>
>What part of your RV is Experimental?
>
>ERic--
>GodSpeed Aviation
>
>----Original Message Follows----
>From: UFOBUCK(at)aol.com
>
>Eric-
>
>I do have a suggestion.
>
>Power your own design however you want but please do not call it an RV.
>
>B.Clary
>
>Scope out the new MSN Plus Internet Software optimizes dial-up to the max!
>
>
And then once Curtis Pitts told the first guy who ever put spring gear
on an S1, "as far as I am concerned, it is no longer a Pitt's Special".
Hmmmmm, times have changed a little.. I guess the same is true if
Lightspeed or Rose ignitions are used on a Lycoming instead of a
magneto, or electronic flight instruments instead of Vaccuum gages.
Actually, there was the Swift, Dart, and Meyers 145 to name a few low
wings with continentals.I think the Dart may have been a retrofit from
an earlier round engine, but I did fly one that had a factory
installed125 on it.
Then there are some auto conversions. Some look real good and others
deviate a bit from the "RV" look . .
I think I would not overlook the 360 continental if I were going
Continental, there are a lot of them out there.
Study it carefully. And just remember that time can be money and money
can be time. What I am saying is that things like building the mount can
make a person wish they had went with bolt on parts just to save some time.
Good luck, I would like to see a Continental powered RV6. Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon and Marge" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | liquid cooled engines |
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard E.
Tasker
Subject: Re: RV-List: liquid cooled engines
-->
It looks as though there may be a used on on Amazon.com.uk:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/tg/detail/offer-listing/-/B0000CIKRE
/used/ref=sdp_usedb/026-4711604-3338025
Then again, i could have already been sold.
Dick Tasker, 90573
Dick: Thanks for the tip. My attempts to buy have been frustrated,
perhaps because of sellers payment restrictions, so am working through a
resident of England and may have the purchase underway. Thanks again.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon and Marge" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | big tail, little tail |
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Frazier,
Vincent A
Subject: RV-List: big tail, little tail
This thread got me thinking about the differences between the big tailed
Stinson 108-3 and the small tailed Stinson 108-1 that I own. Both are
tailwheel for those who might not know.
I've never noticed actually running out of rudder with either one. I
think the big tail was done so you could take extended naps on
crosscountry flights as the big tailed Stinsons are very stable. Or
maybe for floats???
Vince
Vince: My recollection from the time is that Stinson built the large
tail in anticipation of the installation of a larger engine, perhaps a
190 Lyc, that never came to pass. Production ended before the change
could be made.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Can the RV-6 wings be mated to an RV-4 fuselage ??? |
> Here's the 24 thousand dollar question... Can a set of
> RV-6 wings be mated to an RV-4 fuselage ? If so, what
> differences and/or changes must be made to accommodate said
> cross-breeding.
>
> ...well since you asked; I've ended up with an RV-4
> fuselage & emp and I'm probably going to purchase a set of
> RV-6 wings. Soooo....
>
> Chuck
Chuck,
Of course they can be mated, it will just require sawing off the inboard
foot of each spar and living with about a 21 foot wingspan. None of the
bolt holes will mate, and the stall speed will be higher. The aileron
belcrank system will be different, but the fuel capacity will be higher.
Those are only the things I can think of offhand. Other than that, no
problem:>)
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 432 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Kraut <engalt(at)earthlink.net> |
I was hanging upside down by my seatbelt in a KR2 one month ago when it caught
on fire (long story). By some miracle my canopy either broke when the plane went
inverted or ripped off on my way down into the woods. I got ten feet from
the plane and looked back at a fireball 30' high. I will not build another plane
without a quick release five point seatbelt and a cable to pull the canopy
hinge pins like the 152 Aerobat has on the doors. Give yourself every possible
chance to get out fast if you have to. I never thought I would need to either.
-----Original Message-----
From: John.Morrissey(at)csiro.au
Subject: RE: RV-List: Ditching an RV
Your not talking about carrying weapons on your aircraft are you :-)
Seriously the hardest part would be holding your breath long enough
while hanging upside down in dirty water to break a big enough hole to
get out....
Cheers
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kai Schumann <kai92117(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Can UHMW plastic block be painted? |
I've tried dying UHMW before and it does not work.
(RIT dye works great for nylon though). I ended up
making the part out of black Delrin instead. It is a
very nice, smooth machining (unlike UHMW) engineering
plastic that can be had at most plastic suppliers.
Comes in black or white.
Kai
--- Curt Reimer wrote:
>
>
> One trick that I know of for nylon parts is to buy
> some RIT fabric dye, mix
> it up, and simmer the parts in the dye mixture for
> 10 minutes or so. You
> could dye it to match your paint scheme.
>
> Haven't tried this on UHMW though.
>
> Curt
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314(at)earthlink.net>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Can UHMW plastic block be painted?
>
>
>
> >
> > I was just mounting the UHMW block for the canopy
> handle in my tip-up
> > canopy and noticed how the white plastic stands
> out againt the paint
> > I've chosen for the interior. Has any one tried
> painting the UHMW? My
> > guess is nothing would stick to it.
> > --
> > Tom Sargent - RV-6A
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/signingbonus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Knicholas2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming S/B |
In a message dated 1/20/2004 3:58:42 PM Pacific Standard Time,
Fiveonepw(at)aol.com writes:
Anyone got a copy of or link to Lycoming Service Bulletin SB 527C dated
4/18/97? This was about those pesky piston pins
If you can't find it, give Lycoming a call. I needed a service instruction
on pre-oiling yesterday and they faxed it to me 1/2 hour later.
Kim Nicholas
RV9A - getting very close.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ditching an RV |
>
>Hi, everyone -
>
>Part of the checklist I learned for forced landings in a Skyhawk is to
>pop open a door on short final, in case a crash bends the airframe and
>jams the doors shut. Would the same idea be useful for an RV with a
>slider canopy -- if you're about to make a forced landing, pop the
>canopy latch on short final? It sounds like the airspeeds would be low
>enough to let you safely do that. What's not clear to me is whether the
>canopy of the RV-8 that ditched was a tilt-up or a slider, and, if it
>was a slider, whether water pressure interfered with releasing the latch
>or the impact jammed the sliders.
>
>- Jeff C.
>
I think the canopy would just slam forward again when the plane's
wheels dug into the water, unless you had some way to prevent the
canopy from coming forward.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
| Subject: | Can the RV-6 wings be mated to an RV-4 fuselage ??? |
Actually it would be the 2nd one. ;-)
Van did **one**.
Looked kinda strange as I recall. Might have even be a {gasp} "high wing"
... just kidding on the gasp folks. Something about some new concept that
didn't pan out IIRC.
If there are those here that have the facts more "correct", please correct
me.
James
{SNIP}
>
> You'd have the first RV-5
>
> Cammie
> Big fan of really corny jokes.
>
{SNIP}
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ditching an RV |
Kevin Horton wrote:
>
>
>
>>
>>Hi, everyone -
>>
>>Part of the checklist I learned for forced landings in a Skyhawk is to
>>pop open a door on short final, in case a crash bends the airframe and
>>jams the doors shut. Would the same idea be useful for an RV with a
>>slider canopy -- if you're about to make a forced landing, pop the
>>canopy latch on short final? It sounds like the airspeeds would be low
>>enough to let you safely do that. What's not clear to me is whether the
>>canopy of the RV-8 that ditched was a tilt-up or a slider, and, if it
>>was a slider, whether water pressure interfered with releasing the latch
>>or the impact jammed the sliders.
>>
>>- Jeff C.
>>
>>
>>
>
>I think the canopy would just slam forward again when the plane's
>wheels dug into the water, unless you had some way to prevent the
>canopy from coming forward.
>
>
This has been discussed on my Grumman Gang. Some have slit a length of
PVC pipe so it rests on the canopy rails, preventing closure. In a real
pinch you can lay your headset over the rail and the canopy will only
close the width of the headband.
Linn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson(at)consolidated.net> |
| Subject: | Aerodynamics of propulsion |
Who was the first guy who was asking about this book. Sorry I deleted
the name and email address. Then I think I found one....
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Ford" <dford(at)michweb.net> |
| Subject: | Another first flight RV6 |
Four and a half years ago it was started and today it flew its maiden flight.
N516D was given its pink slip January 9, 2004 Can hardly believe it really happened.
No problems whatsoever just a nervous pilot but Mike Seager's training
really helped. This is a slow build RV6 with Lycoming O360A1A and FADEC added.
Today was the best day we've had for a while with clear skies and calm winds
so it was perfect for a first flight. Rolling down the runway lifting off
into calm cool air, staying around the airport at full throttle breaking in this
engine, no problems, did a couple stalls, returned to airport for first landing,
no problem. Looking forward to more flights. Thanks everybody on this
list for all your answers.
Dave Ford
RV6 N516D flying!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gabe A Ferrer" <ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Fiberglass Leg Fairing Tabs Breaking |
My starbord leg fairing tabs break after about 8 landings. I've also had the port
tabs break but not as often.
There are two tabs on top of each leg fairing. They, and the leg fairings, were
made from fiberglass.
I'd appreciate any advice on how to correct this problem.
Thanks
Gabe A Ferrer
RV6 N2GX 99 hours
South Florida
Email: ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net
Cell: 561 758 8894
Night Phone: 561 622 0960
Fax: 561 622 0960
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Fiberglass Leg Fairing Tabs Breaking |
> My starbord leg fairing tabs break after about 8 landings.
> I've also had the port tabs break but not as often. There are
> two tabs on top of each leg fairing. They, and the leg
> fairings, were made from fiberglass. I'd appreciate any
> advice on how to correct this problem. Thanks Gabe A Ferrer
> RV6 N2GX 99 hours South Florida
Gabe,
Is it possible that the fairings are a bit too long? If they are sort
of wedged at the bottom, they might be getting crowded as the gear flex.
I had a similar problem with the nose gear fairing on mine the first few
hours. It looked like there was clearance, but what I couldn't see was
the geometry as the gear flexed. I had to trim it a bit. Look at the
lower end of the fairings, and see if there is any evidence of stress
there. Additionally, I built up under those tabs so that their radius
would match the gear where they were clamped.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 432 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Another first flight RV6 |
Congratulations Dave!!!
Getting close here.
Richard Dudley
Dave Ford wrote:
>
>
> Four and a half years ago it was started and today it flew its maiden flight.
N516D was given its pink slip January 9, 2004 Can hardly believe it really
happened. No problems whatsoever just a nervous pilot but Mike Seager's training
really helped. This is a slow build RV6 with Lycoming O360A1A and FADEC
added. Today was the best day we've had for a while with clear skies and calm
winds so it was perfect for a first flight. Rolling down the runway lifting off
into calm cool air, staying around the airport at full throttle breaking in
this engine, no problems, did a couple stalls, returned to airport for first
landing, no problem. Looking forward to more flights. Thanks everybody on this
list for all your answers.
>
> Dave Ford
> RV6 N516D flying!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WPAerial(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Another first flight RV6 |
good goin dave where do u live
jerryt wilken
6a n699wp
albany oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Nolan" <jamespnolan(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Crash and Recover |
Doug,
I responded to a e-mail regarding the crosswind capabilities of a
tailwheel RV. I can't speak for anything other than a RV4.
The 25kt. direct was constant with no gusts at Goshen a few years ago. I
know the speed because I called unicom and asked. The plane impresses me
yet. I believe from experience that 25kts is the very limit of an RV4 being
held straight down the runway during landing.
The 25kt cross wind refers to the capability of the airplane, not the
capability of the pilot.
Each person flying will set the crosswind limitations of their own
airplane. When I first started flying my RV4 the limitation was 5kts. I flew
for years never landing on the active at Warsaw, why land into the wind when
you can build experience landing in a cross wind.
As far as doing this every day for fun, da. The knowledge of the planes
capabilities will enhance the effort of the pilot to increase his
capabilities...
Jim Nolan
N444JN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
| Subject: | Fiberglass Leg Fairing Tabs Breaking |
Gabe,
I had this problem to a lesser degree. I also had the problem of the
fairing walking down the gear leg. Finally after a several repairs, I just
cut off the bottom/ inboard tab and reinforced the top one with several
layers of fiberglass/epoxy. That was probably 150 hours ago and I have
experienced no problems since. But, I expect that the gear fairings will
be an ongoing maintenance issue to some extent.
Ken Harrill
RV-6, 300 hours
Columbia, SC
-----Original Message-----
From: Gabe A Ferrer [mailto:ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net]
Subject: RV-List: Fiberglass Leg Fairing Tabs Breaking
My starbord leg fairing tabs break after about 8 landings. I've also had the
port tabs break but not as often.
There are two tabs on top of each leg fairing. They, and the leg fairings,
were made from fiberglass.
I'd appreciate any advice on how to correct this problem.
Thanks
Gabe A Ferrer
RV6 N2GX 99 hours
South Florida
Email: ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net
Cell: 561 758 8894
Night Phone: 561 622 0960
Fax: 561 622 0960
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming S/B |
In a message dated 1/20/04 4:44:33 PM Central Standard Time,
gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca writes:
> Try http://www.prime-mover.org/Aviation/Manuf.html
Thanks, George- great resource! Wish they'd update it, though....
Mark - I'll archive this for Lycoming Service Bulletins Instructions Letters
SB SI SL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Whiteside" <erwhites(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | RV filler caps leaking |
Speaking of caps leaking,...
I had an experience a couple of days ago that puzzled/concerned me:
RV6 sat out overnight and rains passed thru. Next morning I sumped
the tanks - no water found. Then taxied across airport (about 10
minutes) and topped off at FBO. Plane sat a couple of hours, I sumped
tanks again (no water), and flew home for about 1.5 hours, using both tanks.
Topped off fuel and put plane in hanger. Next afternoon, before flying,
sumped
and got about half a cup of water out of each tank. I am pretty confident
that I didn't get the water with either FBO's fuel. That would mean it
leaked in thru the caps (no surprise there) and took 24-48 hours with lots
of shaking and vibrating to find its way to the lowest point in the tanks.
Very sobering - there was more than enough water to fail the engine in
flight,
had it reached the carb. (Surprisingly, there was no water in the
gascolator.)
Has anyone else had a similar experience?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Denk
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV filler caps leaking
<bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
>Need to tighten up my filler caps because they are leaking with full
>tanks, one worse than the other. Tried to tighten the nut on the back
>but am afraid of shearing the pin off. Any ideas?
>
>
>Scott Bilinski
>Eng dept 305
Scott,
I have one cap that seeps fuel when full, and the other one never does. It
may have something to do with the filler necks too. There is a fine line
between sealing, and going overboard and snapping the pin. Are you lubing
the O-rings/cap parts with fuel lube? I goop them pretty good and it helps
the whole assembly work with more torque on the nut than possible if left
dry. O rings can also be less than perfect right from the get go. A local
industrial seal and fitting store might have viton rings the right size to
try out.
Brian Denk
Rv8 N94BD
RV10 51
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Will & Lynda Allen" <linenwool(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | RV filler caps leaking |
We had a similar thing happen in our float plane at the club I fly at. Water
was not showing up in the initial pre-flights and we check it very carefully
because, for weight reasons, we don't keep the tanks full. Ended up having
an engine out but luckily it was right over Lake Sammamish so there was no
incident. After standing on the floats and draining water for about 30
minutes from the strainer the plane started and was fine, of course, they
flew back to Lake Washington with extra altitude in case. Needless to say,
when flying the float plane, after launching it into the water I now rock
the wings a bit and then do another fuel check, since before obviously
wasn't careful enough ;). It was later determined that the fuel caps were
leaking when we had the extra heavy rains and replaced them.
With the float plane, we have the issue of the attitude the plane sits when
on the ground as apposed to when it's in the water. Which makes me wonder,
are the lowest points in the RV tanks the same whether it's a tricycle or
tail wheel? And if so, are the drains placed differently depending on what
you're building. I guess I'm only a few months from my tanks so I'm assuming
I'll find out at that point.
-Will Allen
North Bend, Wa
Rv8 wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric Whiteside
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV filler caps leaking
Speaking of caps leaking,...
I had an experience a couple of days ago that puzzled/concerned me:
RV6 sat out overnight and rains passed thru. Next morning I sumped
the tanks - no water found. Then taxied across airport (about 10
minutes) and topped off at FBO. Plane sat a couple of hours, I sumped
tanks again (no water), and flew home for about 1.5 hours, using both tanks.
Topped off fuel and put plane in hanger. Next afternoon, before flying,
sumped
and got about half a cup of water out of each tank. I am pretty confident
that I didn't get the water with either FBO's fuel. That would mean it
leaked in thru the caps (no surprise there) and took 24-48 hours with lots
of shaking and vibrating to find its way to the lowest point in the tanks.
Very sobering - there was more than enough water to fail the engine in
flight,
had it reached the carb. (Surprisingly, there was no water in the
gascolator.)
Has anyone else had a similar experience?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Denk
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV filler caps leaking
<bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
>Need to tighten up my filler caps because they are leaking with full
>tanks, one worse than the other. Tried to tighten the nut on the back
>but am afraid of shearing the pin off. Any ideas?
>
>
>Scott Bilinski
>Eng dept 305
Scott,
I have one cap that seeps fuel when full, and the other one never does. It
may have something to do with the filler necks too. There is a fine line
between sealing, and going overboard and snapping the pin. Are you lubing
the O-rings/cap parts with fuel lube? I goop them pretty good and it helps
the whole assembly work with more torque on the nut than possible if left
dry. O rings can also be less than perfect right from the get go. A local
industrial seal and fitting store might have viton rings the right size to
try out.
Brian Denk
Rv8 N94BD
RV10 51
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV filler caps leaking |
Eric,
Not had your experience, but I would suggest to anyone flying crosscountry
in an RV to tape up their fuel tanks at night. I carry a roll of aluminum
tape with me for this purpose. I think it is pretty much accepted that
these fuel caps will leak water into the tank in a heavy rain. I belive the
water enters through the center of the cap and not around the O rings. Glad
to hear you made it OK.
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 QB (Building)
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Whiteside" <erwhites(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV filler caps leaking
>
> sumped
> and got about half a cup of water out of each tank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cessna150Guy" <Cessna150Guy(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Power chart O-320 |
January 12, 2004 - January 21, 2004
RV-Archive.digest.vol-ot