RV-Archive.digest.vol-ou
January 21, 2004 - February 01, 2004
If anyone could help me out I would GREATLY appreciate it! I=92m looking for
a power chart for the Lyc O-320 (160 hp). What I really need is something I
can print out and bring with me in the cockpit in order to use for reference
for M.P./RPM settings. I would appreciate anything you could send me.
E-mail it to me offline if you want.
Thanks in advance=85
Travis
--
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus (http://www.grisoft.com).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon and Marge" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Aerodynamics of propulsion |
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phil Sisson,
Litchfield Aerobatic Club
Subject: RV-List: Aerodynamics of propulsion
-->
Who was the first guy who was asking about this book. Sorry I deleted
the name and email address. Then I think I found one....
Phil
Phil: I think I was the first to ask about the book and I believe I
have one en route. Charlie England also expressed an interest. Thank
you for the note.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | RV filler caps leaking |
I read an article somewhere that said that water can remain in suspension in
the fuel for some time, so you could check the sumps and find them free of
water after a fill-up and yet find water in them some time later, even
without rain. I have no experience to confirm or deny it.
Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
rv-list
| Subject: | Lord vs. Barry........... |
Hi Folks
I am at that stage where I have to start thinking about hanging the engine.
Anybody flying with Barry shock mounts??
good, bad, indifferent as compared with the Lord shock mounts Van's sells??
Thanks in advance
Gert
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harvey Sigmon" <rv6hes(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lord vs. Barry........... |
Gert: My experience with the different type mount has been the Lord mounts
are the only kind to buy. My last RV I had used Lord Mounts after 600
hours no sag. My present mount I installed from Van's about 50 hours ago
have already began to sag approx 3/8" The ones I bought from Van's were not
Lords, but made by some company in California. Other people have had
similar problem with sagging. Lords cost more but I would not buy anything
else. My opinion only.
Harvey Sigmon RV-6A N602-RV 300 hrs.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gert" <gert(at)execpc.com>
Subject: RV-List: Lord vs. Barry...........
>
> Hi Folks
>
> I am at that stage where I have to start thinking about hanging the
engine.
>
> Anybody flying with Barry shock mounts??
>
> good, bad, indifferent as compared with the Lord shock mounts Van's
sells??
>
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Gert
> --
> is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Sneed <jasons(at)fnbt.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV filler caps leaking |
Any problem with the aluminum tape taking off the paint? I wonder if
there is a better type of tape for this issue. By the way, just for
input I have a 6 and is has been rained on all day before and I have
never found water in my tanks. I wonder if there is more that one type
of fuel cap? Thanks for the info though, If I get rained on I will
start paying better attention.
On Jan 21, 2004, at 5:22 PM, Pat Hatch wrote:
>
> Eric,
>
> Not had your experience, but I would suggest to anyone flying
> crosscountry
> in an RV to tape up their fuel tanks at night. I carry a roll of
> aluminum
> tape with me for this purpose. I think it is pretty much accepted that
> these fuel caps will leak water into the tank in a heavy rain. I
> belive the
> water enters through the center of the cap and not around the O rings.
> Glad
> to hear you made it OK.
>
> Pat Hatch
> RV-4
> RV-6
> RV-7 QB (Building)
> Vero Beach, FL
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Eric Whiteside" <erwhites(at)bellsouth.net>
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV-List: RV filler caps leaking
>
>
>>
>>
>> sumped
>> and got about half a cup of water out of each tank.
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
Jason Sneed
Commercial Lending Officer
First National Bank and Trust
850-796-2000 Ext:2341
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon Remote compass Module Location in RV-8 |
Don Diehl wrote:
>
>
>>I'm installing a Dynon in my RV-8. What is the best place to mount the
>>remote compass module? I was thinking back in the tail under the
>>vertical stab. Does this make sense?
>
>
> I had mounted the magnetometer as you suggested, in the tail, under the
> vertical stab.
> When the good folks from Dynon looked over my installation they advised
> me that neither
> the magnetometer nor its connector are waterproof. So I made an
> L-shaped bracket to
> mount it to the bottom of a mid-fuselage bulkhead. Works fine.
I put the magnetometer in a plastic baggie, wrapped it up tightly, then
secured it in place under the vertical stab with nylon cable ties.
Sam Buchanan (latest project, http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/stalkerv6 )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lord vs. Barry........... |
Hi Harvey
Do you remember the correct number for the Lord shock mounts.
There seems to be an astonishing aray of different 'real' lord mounts.
I was under the assumption that Van's sold 'real' lord shock mounts
Are those the 'experimental' ones found in the ACS catalog??
Gert
Harvey Sigmon wrote:
>
> Gert: My experience with the different type mount has been the Lord mounts
> are the only kind to buy. My last RV I had used Lord Mounts after 600
> hours no sag. My present mount I installed from Van's about 50 hours ago
> have already began to sag approx 3/8" The ones I bought from Van's were not
> Lords, but made by some company in California. Other people have had
> similar problem with sagging. Lords cost more but I would not buy anything
> else. My opinion only.
> Harvey Sigmon RV-6A N602-RV 300 hrs.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Gert" <gert(at)execpc.com>
> To: ; "rv-list"
> Subject: RV-List: Lord vs. Barry...........
>
>
>
>>
>>Hi Folks
>>
>>I am at that stage where I have to start thinking about hanging the
>
> engine.
>
>>Anybody flying with Barry shock mounts??
>>
>>good, bad, indifferent as compared with the Lord shock mounts Van's
>
> sells??
>
>>
>>Thanks in advance
>>
>>Gert
>>--
>>is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | RV filler caps leaking |
>
> Not had your experience, but I would suggest to anyone flying
> cross-country in an RV to tape up their fuel tanks at night.
> I carry a roll of aluminum tape with me for this purpose. I
> think it is pretty much accepted that these fuel caps will
> leak water into the tank in a heavy rain. I believe the water
> enters through the center of the cap and not around the O
> rings. Glad to hear you made it OK.
Recently, I hung around when another RVer disassembled his Van's style
caps, old (early 90's) vintage. I was surprised to see that the center
o-ring was not even rubber, but some sort of rigid white stuff. Small
wonder they leaked. We goobered them up, especially the center shaft
area, with EZ Turn (the old fuel lube). I suspect that they won't leak
any more. There appear to be a lot of different versions of the caps
around. Mine had crummy plastic thrust washers for the locking lever,
which wore out in about 50 hours (Van sells SS replacements).
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 432 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV filler caps leaking |
| From: | Patty & Dan Krueger <pndkrueg(at)mchsi.com> |
On Wednesday, January 21, 2004, at 09:01 PM, Jason Sneed wrote:
>
> Any problem with the aluminum tape taking off the paint? I wonder if
> there is a better type of tape for this issue.
Yes there is an easier way - the stickon sunshades that AOPA gives out
make a very good cover for the gas caps. Cut it in half and you have
two approx 6X6 covers for the caps that are reusable. Used them at LAL
this weekend and survived several downpours (lft tues) with no water in
the tanks. ( I got this idea off the list several years ago from a
veteran lister}
Dan Krueger
RV6A N926DK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV filler caps leaking |
The aluminum tape, also known as speed tape, won't hurt the paint if removed
carefully, and if not burnished too much when applying. Also, if left on
for several days, it still comes off easily, unlike other tapes that will
become very hard to get off cleanly.
Pat Hatch
>
> Any problem with the aluminum tape taking off the paint?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jay <jss165(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: -8A in FL last weekend? |
Mark,
That looks like Doug Gardners plane. He lives in Palm
Harbor, FL and is in the white pages
Jay Samonsky
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Cutting the hole for the landing gear mount - 7A |
I'm trying to figure how to cut the hole for the landing gear mount. The plans
pretty much say to lay the mount in the cabin and cut to size. Well, that would
be OK if the thing would lay flush so you could trim the hole but it doesn't.
The plans page also has a "template", so it says but that's not really a template
and if it is it's only for the right side.
It's late and I probably shouldn't be cutting holes in the fuselage anyway.
Karie Daniel
RV-7A
Sammamish, WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: -8A in FL last weekend? |
the plane is featured in the 6th issue 2003 RV ATOR, page 18. It is from
Florida.
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Another first flight RV6 |
Dave,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "Dave Ford" <dford(at)michweb.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Another first flight RV6
>Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 20:05:57 -0600
>
>
>Four and a half years ago it was started and today it flew its maiden
>flight. N516D was given its pink slip January 9, 2004 Can hardly believe
>it really happened. No problems whatsoever just a nervous pilot but Mike
>Seager's training really helped. This is a slow build RV6 with Lycoming
>O360A1A and FADEC added. Today was the best day we've had for a while with
>clear skies and calm winds so it was perfect for a first flight. Rolling
>down the runway lifting off into calm cool air, staying around the airport
>at full throttle breaking in this engine, no problems, did a couple stalls,
>returned to airport for first landing, no problem. Looking forward to more
>flights. Thanks everybody on this list for all your answers.
>
>Dave Ford
>RV6 N516D flying!
>
>
Find high-speed net deals comparison-shop your local providers here.
https://broadband.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson(at)consolidated.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aerodynamics of propulsion |
Gordon and Marge wrote:
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phil Sisson,
>Litchfield Aerobatic Club
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Aerodynamics of propulsion
>
>
>-->
>
>
>Who was the first guy who was asking about this book. Sorry I deleted
>the name and email address. Then I think I found one....
>
>Phil
>
>Phil: I think I was the first to ask about the book and I believe I
>have one en route. Charlie England also expressed an interest. Thank
>you for the note.
>
>Gordon Comfort
>N363GC
>
>
>
>
ok tnx for reply.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RV filler caps leaking |
>
>
>switched to left and the engine quit.
>Landed, sumpped left tank and had about 2 bottle caps full. Zero in the
>gascolator. I am now convinced water does not settle out to bottom of
>gascolator as the fuel flows.
Hi Mike and all,
Bummer of a statistical anomaly, Mike! Hopefully, you have improved the
odds for the rest of us.
I have a mouse pad cut in half to lay over filler caps. In midwest, wind
might be more of an issue tho. I wonder if it is possible for moisture in
the air in the tank to condense at altitude? An argument for keeping
tanks full of fuel. Here, the air is usually very dry so that I can't
remember when I last got more than a drop or two of water from RV or
Debonair. I never top up tanks after a flight and I never sump after
refueling as it can take some time for the water to settle out if the fuel
was contaminated. Maybe I should change my ways.
When fuel is flowing to the engine, water that is so well mixed with gas
that it doesn't settle in gasco is fed in to cylinders causing at most low
power or maybe rough running, right? Gascolators or their equal have been
working for quite some time now. With autos one adds some alcohol from
time to time. Water is soluble in alcohol and it is soluble in fuel so all
moves along.
When I had my Honda shop, we had a rash of owners calling in to say their
bike had quit and they couldn't restart. Mechanics soon found that all had
water in the gas and had all gassed up at the same station, I hopped on my
Super Hawk and went there. They were already shut down and trying to
figure out where the water came from. It happens.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com> |
| Subject: | Cutting the hole for the landing gear mount - 7A |
The RV-6A Videos would really help here... Basically take a piece of
card stock (say, the back of a notebook) and cut a hole in the center of
it through which the gear mount will fit. I haven't seen the template
in the -7A plans, but that would probably work; I get to make my own
using a feeler gage. Anyway, install the mount and put the template
over it. It should overhang the bulkheads the bottom skin attaches to.
Mark and punch the rivet holes (you should have already drilled the
bottom skins at this point). Be sure to mark the holes on the template
on one side and mark which mount they are for; you can then turn the
template over and use it for the other side, marking and punching the
holes for that side. Or you can make two templates - card stock is
cheap. Once you have the template made, cleco it to the bottom skin
through the matching holes and transfer the cutout line from the
template to the skin. That's all there is to it.
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - not getting much done on the fuselage... :(
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Karie Daniel
Subject: RV-List: Cutting the hole for the landing gear mount - 7A
I'm trying to figure how to cut the hole for the landing gear mount. The
plans pretty much say to lay the mount in the cabin and cut to size.
Well, that would be OK if the thing would lay flush so you could trim
the hole but it doesn't. The plans page also has a "template", so it
says but that's not really a template and if it is it's only for the
right side.
It's late and I probably shouldn't be cutting holes in the fuselage
anyway.
Karie Daniel
RV-7A
Sammamish, WA
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cutting the hole for the landing gear mount - 7A |
I have a 9A so I am not sure that my plans are exactly like yours in
this area or not, but...
Use the template. I scanned it into my computer and made two copies -
one mirror imaged. You will probably have to trim the hole a little
more even after you trim to the template when you actually fit the
landing gear mounts. If you do not have a scanner, just trace the pattern.
Make sure to include the various holes around the main hole so you can
locate it properly on the skin.
Dick Tasker, 90573
Karie Daniel wrote:
>
>I'm trying to figure how to cut the hole for the landing gear mount. The plans
pretty much say to lay the mount in the cabin and cut to size. Well, that would
be OK if the thing would lay flush so you could trim the hole but it doesn't.
The plans page also has a "template", so it says but that's not really a template
and if it is it's only for the right side.
>
>It's late and I probably shouldn't be cutting holes in the fuselage anyway.
>
>Karie Daniel
>RV-7A
>Sammamish, WA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cutting the hole for the landing gear mount - 7A |
Karie
I did something similar to Patrick's approach for my RV-9A except that I
used a clear piece of acetate to trace the cutout and rivet locations from
the drawing. I then cut out the hole area in the acetate, laid the pattern
on the skin making sure it aligned with the correct rivet holes, and traced
the cutout on the skin with a fine point Sharpie pen. Then flipped the
acetate over and marked the other side. It worked out very well.
Dean Van Winkle
RV-9A Fuselage/Finish
----- Original Message -----
From: "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Cutting the hole for the landing gear mount - 7A
>
> The RV-6A Videos would really help here... Basically take a piece of
> card stock (say, the back of a notebook) and cut a hole in the center of
> it through which the gear mount will fit. I haven't seen the template
> in the -7A plans, but that would probably work; I get to make my own
> using a feeler gage. Anyway, install the mount and put the template
> over it. It should overhang the bulkheads the bottom skin attaches to.
> Mark and punch the rivet holes (you should have already drilled the
> bottom skins at this point). Be sure to mark the holes on the template
> on one side and mark which mount they are for; you can then turn the
> template over and use it for the other side, marking and punching the
> holes for that side. Or you can make two templates - card stock is
> cheap. Once you have the template made, cleco it to the bottom skin
> through the matching holes and transfer the cutout line from the
> template to the skin. That's all there is to it.
>
> Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - not getting much done on the fuselage... :(
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Karie Daniel
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Cutting the hole for the landing gear mount - 7A
>
>
> I'm trying to figure how to cut the hole for the landing gear mount. The
> plans pretty much say to lay the mount in the cabin and cut to size.
> Well, that would be OK if the thing would lay flush so you could trim
> the hole but it doesn't. The plans page also has a "template", so it
> says but that's not really a template and if it is it's only for the
> right side.
>
> It's late and I probably shouldn't be cutting holes in the fuselage
> anyway.
>
> Karie Daniel
> RV-7A
> Sammamish, WA
>
>
> =
> =
> =
> =
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Humm,
seems like some innovative soul could design and sell a set of reusable
stick-on vinyl covers that seal the caps, with a nice Vans Airforce logo
embossed on them, and a remove before flight red flag.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Sam,
I got a chance to fly with Chuck, the grand bruhah engineer and chief duck
at Trio the other day. He's one of the nicest guys you'll ever meet. It was
a smooth as glass day so we played with it and came up with 4, 4, for the
intercept gains and 7 for the pullin, as the most sensitive without hunting.
We also found that the auto turn rate worked the best at various speeds. It
now seems to stay within .01 nm or 60 ft of track and intercepts nicely. He
also got a good look at the weakness of the display in direct sunlight, they
are soon to offer, if not already, the LCD version I believe. I made a
little 1 inch shade that sits just above the display below the upper
switches. It has two tabs that catch the upper mount screws.
He felt that as long as the servo arm lengths for the attachments to the
control system were similar to mine then these settings would be fairly good
for
most of us. I believe I used the longest arm length the servo had to offer,
and then attached to the wing belcrank such that the servo arm still has
1/8" travel before contacting the servo stops, not sure what those actual
arm lengths were though.
I've been practicing intercepting the localizer from about 125 degrees off
course and it turns into it onto track within one tick on the OBS needle.
It really improves upon the Navaid for precision and info display. I did
suggest that they let the TOP be more then 1 nm.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
| Subject: | Dynon D-10/VAL INS422 |
A couple of folks were asking about the Dynon and the INS422 from VAL
Avionics awhile back. This is the second time I've tried to post this,
but I got a few posts kicked back at me after a few days???
I have about 230 hours on the Dynon now, I do occasionally have the slight
lean, but its only about 2 degrees. It will get behind you in a loop on
pitch display because the airspeed is gyrating greatly during a loop, and
they have this input damped slightly. So avoid IMC loops. It only happens
coming out and it recovers in three seconds. The rest of the features work
as advertised. The only down side is getting one's scan to absorb all that
data in one glance. I still find myself going after the conventional
airspeed and the altimeter.
It might be a nice feature to have the two tapes stepped or tapered wider as
you go higher/faster. This would more emulate the quick scan data one can
get from glancing at a needle. I tend to not see the needle for a number but
for a specific position. Particularly with the ASI and the VSI.
I would not ever recomend you use the D-10 to replace the Fabulous four,
ASI/ALT/VSI/TC, for any IMC flight, but it does sit above the HI, nicely
replacing the AI.
The INS422 works like it should, the only real downside is the lack of
rotating bezel that a conventional VOR/LOC indicator has. But flying the
LEDS is no different than the needle once you get used to it. I don't think
its the best solution as the only VOR/ILS device in the plane unless you are
very proficient, but as a second VOR/LOC/GS/MB unit its perfect.
It also will digitially display the radial you are tuned to which is nice
for a cross
point check.
The only gripe is I haven't gotten either of my LOC antennas to do that well
in range. I have the Bob Archer wing tip antennas installed exactly as he
said to by phone, and the range is generally only 18-25 nm. My only option
left is to trash the RG-58 and goto the RG-400. Any thoughts out there would
be appreciated.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV filler caps leaking |
| From: | "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net> |
I hope so. If nothing else I have learned a lot myself. Here is what I
have learned.
1. Shaking the plane before sumping does NOT remove all the water. If
fact in this case, it removed none. Maybe shaking the wing like hell
will. Maybe waiting 30 seconds instead of 15 would help. I dunno but
this water thing is scary.
2. The gascolator does not trap water out of fuel passing through it on
my airplane. I have the vans gascolator. I did not know this before and
would have bet good money that it would in fact trap water. I was proven
wrong. My next plane will not have a gascolator.
3. If I had a carb., something worse may have happened.
I received 5 direct e-mails yesterday asking me what I did when the
engine quit. Here is my response:
I did what any pilot would do when you move a lever and the engine
quits. MOVE IT BACK!. I have Fuel Injection. Engine fired back up. Then
I ran for a while, switched to left and engine quit again. AHAA!. Don't
move lever over there again. Oh and give mouth to mouth to right seat
passenger Michelle. She gets flush when the noise stops.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of kempthornes
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV filler caps leaking
>
>
>switched to left and the engine quit.
>Landed, sumpped left tank and had about 2 bottle caps full. Zero in the
>gascolator. I am now convinced water does not settle out to bottom of
>gascolator as the fuel flows.
Hi Mike and all,
Bummer of a statistical anomaly, Mike! Hopefully, you have improved the
odds for the rest of us.
I have a mouse pad cut in half to lay over filler caps. In midwest,
wind
might be more of an issue tho. I wonder if it is possible for moisture
in
the air in the tank to condense at altitude? An argument for keeping
tanks full of fuel. Here, the air is usually very dry so that I can't
remember when I last got more than a drop or two of water from RV or
Debonair. I never top up tanks after a flight and I never sump after
refueling as it can take some time for the water to settle out if the
fuel
was contaminated. Maybe I should change my ways.
When fuel is flowing to the engine, water that is so well mixed with gas
that it doesn't settle in gasco is fed in to cylinders causing at most
low
power or maybe rough running, right? Gascolators or their equal have
been
working for quite some time now. With autos one adds some alcohol from
time to time. Water is soluble in alcohol and it is soluble in fuel so
all
moves along.
When I had my Honda shop, we had a rash of owners calling in to say
their
bike had quit and they couldn't restart. Mechanics soon found that all
had
water in the gas and had all gassed up at the same station, I hopped on
my
Super Hawk and went there. They were already shut down and trying to
figure out where the water came from. It happens.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
| Subject: | RV List benefits |
I'm gonna get a little drippy here but, out of all of the benefits that I
get from the list, the one that is the most cool is when I land at an
airport, taxi up to another RV, and put a face to someone I already know
from the
list.
Sunday I got to meet Laird O. at Santa Paula while waiting for my better
half
to pick me up.
It was really cool, I parked next to his RV-6 and thought, "nice plane,
wonder if he/she is on the list" Soon after he mosied up and we had a nice
chat.
In any event, last weekend I got to meet and remeet some of the SoCal guys
and gals at my airport, and this weekend I got to meet a builder at Chino,
and then another list lurker who had just got his 6 certified, and ended it
Sunday by meeting Laird up north.
Ain't it grand.
thanks Matt
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cessna150Guy" <Cessna150Guy(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | O-320 D1A Power Chart |
I have seen a couple requests on this list for a Lyc O-320 D1A power setting
chart. I recently received one and I have reformatted it and cleaned it up
so it prints out nicely and you can take it into the cockpit for in-flight
reference. E-mail me off line and I will e-mail it to you.
Travis
--
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus (http://www.grisoft.com).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Power chart O-320 |
regarding
If anyone could help me out I would GREATLY appreciate it! I=92m
looking for
a power chart for the Lyc O-320 (160 hp). What I really need is something I
can print out and bring with me in the cockpit in order to use for reference
for M.P./RPM settings. I would appreciate anything you could send me.
E-mail it to me offline if you want.
PLEASE remember that a power chart that lists power for a given RPM, like
that which comes from an O-320 Cessna 172 is only relevant in that airplane
with that prop.
An aircraft with a coarser pitch prop will need to develop more power at a
given RPM. A power chart for a constant speed prop equipped airplane that
shows an RPM and Manifold Pressure matrix, would be (reasonably) accurate
for any aircraft equipped with that engine.
The analogy is that your car engine isn't required to produce the same power
running at 3000 rpm in 1st gear as it is running at 3000 rpm in 5th gear.
If 5th the car is moving faster. The MP will be higher because a higher
force (torque) is required against the resistance of the higher gear
(coarser prop) (Ain't physics great force x speed =power, it all works
out!!!)
Don Mei
"All of us need to be reminded that the federal government did not create
the states; the states created the federal government!"---Ronald Reagan
Check out the coupons and bargains on MSN Offers!
http://shopping.msn.com/softcontent/softcontent.aspx?scmId=1418
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randy Richter <richterrbb(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV filler caps leaking |
I think at least one lesson to be learned from this thread is (barring
the exposure to rain), ALWAYS refuel ASAP after landing, whether you're
gas-and-going or RONing (Remaining OverNight). This serves a two-fold
purpose: 1) gives the maximum amount of time for entrained water to
settle out of the fuel (might also add, ALWAYS give yourself some time
margin for this to occur, 15 minutes, 30 minutes - anyone got a good
guideline for this?); and 2) minimizes the amount of potentially very
moist air in the tank (moisture in air can condense out at ANY altitude
- all that has to happen is the ambient air temp drop, like at night).
Mike, good on you for keeping your head! Since almost all of my time is
multi (military), I've never had the experience of losing my one and
only source of oomph. Losing one of four is exciting enough!
=.02
Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta) wrote:
>
>I hope so. If nothing else I have learned a lot myself. Here is what I
>have learned.
>1. Shaking the plane before sumping does NOT remove all the water. If
>fact in this case, it removed none. Maybe shaking the wing like hell
>will. Maybe waiting 30 seconds instead of 15 would help. I dunno but
>this water thing is scary.
>2. The gascolator does not trap water out of fuel passing through it on
>my airplane. I have the vans gascolator. I did not know this before and
>would have bet good money that it would in fact trap water. I was proven
>wrong. My next plane will not have a gascolator.
>3. If I had a carb., something worse may have happened.
>
>
>I received 5 direct e-mails yesterday asking me what I did when the
>engine quit. Here is my response:
>
>I did what any pilot would do when you move a lever and the engine
>quits. MOVE IT BACK!. I have Fuel Injection. Engine fired back up. Then
>I ran for a while, switched to left and engine quit again. AHAA!. Don't
>move lever over there again. Oh and give mouth to mouth to right seat
>passenger Michelle. She gets flush when the noise stops.
>
>Mike
>
>
>
--
Randy Richter
richterrbb(at)earthlink.net
-7QB Kit in hibernation
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Genev E Reed <genevreed(at)juno.com> |
I put a Superior 0360 on my RV7A. I would love to have used a smooth
running Suby. I just couldn't make myself spend that kind of money for a
junk yard engine.
Doyle Reed RV7A. What an awesome Airplane.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "austin" <austin(at)uniserve.com> |
All,
I have a nosewheel shimmy upon touchdown, usually when the airplane
is slowing.
It is quite pronounced and has been observed as an up and down shimmy of the
leg, not a side to side wobble like a shopping cart.
A friend suggested we get our nose wheels balanced at a shop to see if this
helps.
I was very surprised at the post about a tube being at fault for one guy's
shimmy, so figured other things could come into play for a nose gear.
I do know that a lot of 6As suffer this same irritation to some degree or
other.
I have tried lower air pressure and that only helps a little.
Any suggestions or experience out there ?
Austin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Szantho" <szantho(at)usa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV filler caps leaking |
I fly a Mooney M20K and building the RV9-A. On my Mooney I cut out two
circles (left, right wing) about 5 in diameter from a plastic sheet (about
1/16 thickness). Glued a closed cell foam tape around the outer diameter of
the circle and fastened the whole thing to the fuel cap latch with Velcro
like fastener (I cannot remember the name but it has plastic hooks on both
side and you can buy it at hobby shops). You can leave one side of the
fastener permanently on the fuel cap latch. It works great, can be
removed/replaced in seconds, last many years and it's cheap. You have to
select a foam tape that will have enough thickness to do the job.
John Szantho
RV9-A QB fuselage
N3294C
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harvey Sigmon" <rv6hes(at)comcast.net> |
Austin: This has been discussed a lot on the list, sometimes the shimmy is
aggravated by the main gears as brakes are applied. In my case I tried
everything to include changing tire pressure, tightening compression spring
washer to about 25lbs. I finally added a stiffener to the front and aft side
of nose gear leg with a wrap of glass cloth. During this time I changed all
tires, my main tires to Condor 6 ply. After flying for about 50 hours I
still get a slight shimmy at very low speed but easily corrected by Appling
brakes. One thing I do notice the nose gear seems to have a slightly
stiffer feel. So far no cracks in the engine mount or fiberglass . I
really believe if the stiffeners were added to the main gear, like they use
to have it would make the legs a little more rigid and less likely to
shimmy. The discussion about tube being out of balance might be a thing to
consider. On my next tire change I plan on using the new leak proof tubes,
more expensive though. Hope this helps.
Harvey Sigmon RV-6A N602RV flying
----- Original Message -----
From: "austin" <austin(at)uniserve.com>
Subject: RV-List: Shimmy
>
> All,
> I have a nosewheel shimmy upon touchdown, usually when the
airplane
> is slowing.
> It is quite pronounced and has been observed as an up and down shimmy of
the
> leg, not a side to side wobble like a shopping cart.
> A friend suggested we get our nose wheels balanced at a shop to see if
this
> helps.
> I was very surprised at the post about a tube being at fault for one guy's
> shimmy, so figured other things could come into play for a nose gear.
> I do know that a lot of 6As suffer this same irritation to some degree or
> other.
> I have tried lower air pressure and that only helps a little.
> Any suggestions or experience out there ?
> Austin
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Another first flight RV6 |
Dave:
Congratulations ... fly safe and enjoy your test (learning) period !!
Let the fun begin !!
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, NC N910LL
196 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Cutting the hole for the landing gear mount - 7A |
Not sure what the details of a -7A forward fuselage are but here is what I
did on a -6A
First, I drilled the forward bottom skins with the gear sockets missing.
Then I removed the skin and drilled the MLG sockets to the spars. Next I
made a template then cut the holes in the bottom skin. Then I re-installed
and riveted the skin, etc.
The template method I used came from an old Tony Bingelis book. Use some
cardboard or similar template material and cut a generously oversize hole in
it. Put it in place around the gear leg socket (or whatever). Establish some
means of removing the template and putting it back in the same place. On an
RV, simply use clecoes in some nearby rivet holes. Once the cardboard is in
place, fill in the gap around the gear leg socket with bits of scrap
cardboard and lots of masking tape. Remove the clecoes and the cardboard and
transfer it to the material which needs the hole in it. Locate the template
on the skin using the same rivet holes as before and fasten it in place.
Mark and cut the hole.
Fairly easy when it came down to actually doing it.
Jim Oke
RV-6A
Wpg., MB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Cutting the hole for the landing gear mount - 7A
>
> I'm trying to figure how to cut the hole for the landing gear mount. The
plans pretty much say to lay the mount in the cabin and cut to size. Well,
that would be OK if the thing would lay flush so you could trim the hole but
it doesn't. The plans page also has a "template", so it says but that's not
really a template and if it is it's only for the right side.
>
> It's late and I probably shouldn't be cutting holes in the fuselage
anyway.
>
> Karie Daniel
> RV-7A
> Sammamish, WA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV filler caps leaking |
List
This is not about RV's but does relate to the thread. I have about 85
Cessnas in my log book, 70 of which were new deliveries on weekends while I
worked at Cessna. Only one time did I have significant problems with water
in the fuel. It was with a new 172 that had set on the field for about a
month with minimum fuel. The Delivery Center drained water and added alcohol
when filling the tanks and cautioned that there was probably more still. I
made 4 stops between Wichita and St. Louis, the first one only 30 miles out,
and drained water each time. Total water drained at the stops was at least
the equivalent of 1 1/2 gascolators full. A somewhat unusual situation, yes,
but the gascolator did it's job that day. Yes, my RV-9A will have a
gascolator.
Dean Van Winkle Fuselage/Finish
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Richter" <richterrbb(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV filler caps leaking
>
> I think at least one lesson to be learned from this thread is (barring
> the exposure to rain), ALWAYS refuel ASAP after landing, whether you're
> gas-and-going or RONing (Remaining OverNight). This serves a two-fold
> purpose: 1) gives the maximum amount of time for entrained water to
> settle out of the fuel (might also add, ALWAYS give yourself some time
> margin for this to occur, 15 minutes, 30 minutes - anyone got a good
> guideline for this?); and 2) minimizes the amount of potentially very
> moist air in the tank (moisture in air can condense out at ANY altitude
> - all that has to happen is the ambient air temp drop, like at night).
>
> Mike, good on you for keeping your head! Since almost all of my time is
> multi (military), I've never had the experience of losing my one and
> only source of oomph. Losing one of four is exciting enough!
>
> =.02
>
> Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta) wrote:
>
> >
> >I hope so. If nothing else I have learned a lot myself. Here is what I
> >have learned.
> >1. Shaking the plane before sumping does NOT remove all the water. If
> >fact in this case, it removed none. Maybe shaking the wing like hell
> >will. Maybe waiting 30 seconds instead of 15 would help. I dunno but
> >this water thing is scary.
> >2. The gascolator does not trap water out of fuel passing through it on
> >my airplane. I have the vans gascolator. I did not know this before and
> >would have bet good money that it would in fact trap water. I was proven
> >wrong. My next plane will not have a gascolator.
> >3. If I had a carb., something worse may have happened.
> >
> >
> >I received 5 direct e-mails yesterday asking me what I did when the
> >engine quit. Here is my response:
> >
> >I did what any pilot would do when you move a lever and the engine
> >quits. MOVE IT BACK!. I have Fuel Injection. Engine fired back up. Then
> >I ran for a while, switched to left and engine quit again. AHAA!. Don't
> >move lever over there again. Oh and give mouth to mouth to right seat
> >passenger Michelle. She gets flush when the noise stops.
> >
> >Mike
> >
> >
> >
> --
> Randy Richter
> richterrbb(at)earthlink.net
> -7QB Kit in hibernation
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV filler caps leaking |
A few weeks ago I landed and refilled in Deming, NM, on my way from Texas to
AZ. After takeoff, at about 1200 ft AGL or so, I noticed fuel streaming down
the right wing. Normally I sit low enough that I can't see the fuel cap on
that wing but when I sat up a bit I could see that fuel seemed to be sort
of bubbling out of the center of the cap. After landing I was unable to see
any reason for this-the cap was seated and latched just as always. I removed
it, cleaned of the o-ring around the outside and replaced it. No problems
afterward and it has never recurred even though I always check after takeoff
and every now and again in the air.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net> |
I also had a fore-and-aft movement of my nose gear leg that seemed to be
caused by the steel tube insert that holds the upper end of the nose gear
leg in the motor mount being a few thousanths large at the lower end. The
vibration occured as the mains touched but before the nose wheel would
touch. Replacing that steel tube insert cured the problem.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
I have tried lower
> air pressure and that only helps a little. Any suggestions or
> experience out there ? Austin
Austin, how low is low on the pressure of the nose tire? I run mine at
about 20 to 25 psi.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 432 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Wheeler North wrote:
>
> Sam,
>
> I got a chance to fly with Chuck, the grand bruhah engineer and chief duck
> at Trio the other day. He's one of the nicest guys you'll ever meet. It was
> a smooth as glass day so we played with it and came up with 4, 4, for the
> intercept gains and 7 for the pullin, as the most sensitive without hunting.
> We also found that the auto turn rate worked the best at various speeds. It
> now seems to stay within .01 nm or 60 ft of track and intercepts nicely. He
> also got a good look at the weakness of the display in direct sunlight, they
> are soon to offer, if not already, the LCD version I believe. I made a
> little 1 inch shade that sits just above the display below the upper
> switches. It has two tabs that catch the upper mount screws.
>
Thanks for the update, Wheeler. I'll take note of your settings and
compare them to the ones in my EZ-Pilot.
> I've been practicing intercepting the localizer from about 125 degrees off
> course and it turns into it onto track within one tick on the OBS needle.
>
> It really improves upon the Navaid for precision and info display. I did
> suggest that they let the TOP be more then 1 nm.
Yep, the Navaid is still a serviceable unit, but there is no doubt the
EZ-Pilot far exceeds it in capability and precision.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Steve Glasgow ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Steve Glasgow
Subject: N123SG Photos
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/willfly@carolina.rr.com.02.22.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | [Fwd: NEXUS Mustang] |
I know, I know, burn the heretic. 8-)
But I thought some of the RV builders would appreciate this. The idea was
to make a tandem seat Mustang II, it ended up as a brand new airplane all
it's own. All metal construction. Plans will be available shortly, if they
aren't already.
I wonder if the wing would fit on an RV-7?
-Rob
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: NEXUS Mustang
How's this for a nice little homebuilt??
*AIRIC's NEXUS Mustang Air-to-air*
http://www.airic.ca/html/nexus_mustang.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cutting the hole for the landing gear mount - 7A |
Thanks for all the responses. I was worried mostly about cutting into the
spar but Vans said use the template and that I would end up cutting into the
spar about 1/8. I finished the right side tonight, almost wore out my
dremmel though. I made a cut in the center the worked my way out slowly. The
left side will go much faster once I get something for my die grinder that
will cut clean and slow.
Thanks again for the pics and responses.
Karie Daniel
Sammamish, WA
RV-7A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dean" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cutting the hole for the landing gear mount - 7A
>
> Karie
>
> I did something similar to Patrick's approach for my RV-9A except that I
> used a clear piece of acetate to trace the cutout and rivet locations from
> the drawing. I then cut out the hole area in the acetate, laid the
pattern
> on the skin making sure it aligned with the correct rivet holes, and
traced
> the cutout on the skin with a fine point Sharpie pen. Then flipped the
> acetate over and marked the other side. It worked out very well.
>
> Dean Van Winkle
> RV-9A Fuselage/Finish
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com>
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Cutting the hole for the landing gear mount - 7A
>
>
> >
> > The RV-6A Videos would really help here... Basically take a piece of
> > card stock (say, the back of a notebook) and cut a hole in the center of
> > it through which the gear mount will fit. I haven't seen the template
> > in the -7A plans, but that would probably work; I get to make my own
> > using a feeler gage. Anyway, install the mount and put the template
> > over it. It should overhang the bulkheads the bottom skin attaches to.
> > Mark and punch the rivet holes (you should have already drilled the
> > bottom skins at this point). Be sure to mark the holes on the template
> > on one side and mark which mount they are for; you can then turn the
> > template over and use it for the other side, marking and punching the
> > holes for that side. Or you can make two templates - card stock is
> > cheap. Once you have the template made, cleco it to the bottom skin
> > through the matching holes and transfer the cutout line from the
> > template to the skin. That's all there is to it.
> >
> > Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - not getting much done on the fuselage... :(
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Karie Daniel
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV-List: Cutting the hole for the landing gear mount - 7A
> >
> >
> > I'm trying to figure how to cut the hole for the landing gear mount. The
> > plans pretty much say to lay the mount in the cabin and cut to size.
> > Well, that would be OK if the thing would lay flush so you could trim
> > the hole but it doesn't. The plans page also has a "template", so it
> > says but that's not really a template and if it is it's only for the
> > right side.
> >
> > It's late and I probably shouldn't be cutting holes in the fuselage
> > anyway.
> >
> > Karie Daniel
> > RV-7A
> > Sammamish, WA
> >
> >
> > =
> > =
> > =
> > =
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Knicholas2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | first engine start oil question |
I am about to start my 0-320 for the first time. It has been "pickled" for
eight years and well cared for. I have read the service instructions from
Lycoming and will "pre-oil" as recommended. My question is oil. Since it has
been in storage for so long should I use mineral oil and mimic a break-in or just
use the regular oil.
Thanks for the advice.
Kim Nicholas
RV9A - bolting the wings on today!
Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV filler caps leaking |
List:
Just another heads up on filler cap leaks. I had a leak in both tank and
could not figure out what was wrong with the caps ... tighten ...loosen ... lube
....etc.
Finally a fellow builder suggested that the leak was coming for the filler
neck area and possibly not enough (any?) proseal had been put between the
reinforcement plate for the filler cap and the top of the wing skin.
I put proseal around the top of the filler neck where it intersects the wing
skin just inside the tank ... problem solved ... no more leaks !!! The fuel
had acutally been splashing up between the plate and top skin and coming out
the tank giving the appearance of bad caps !!!
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, NC N910LL
196 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: >Re:first engine start oil question |
My engine had been overhauled several years earlier so I drained it and
refilled with Aeroshell W-100 oil. I took out the top plugs and rotated the prop
by hand until I got oil pressure reading. I went ahead and rotated it for 20-30
revolutions and then I just started it.
I only ran it to check for any leaks and a couple of taxi tests and then full
power for the first flights. Oil consumption stabilized after 8-10 hours and
it is doing fine.
My opinion only.
Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
Charleston, Arkansas
"Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | first engine start oil question |
Kim,
Go with the mineral oil.
Could also use Phillips XC that has a minerial base.
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: Knicholas2(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: first engine start oil question
>Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 10:58:40 EST
>
>
>I am about to start my 0-320 for the first time. It has been "pickled" for
>eight years and well cared for. I have read the service instructions from
>Lycoming and will "pre-oil" as recommended. My question is oil. Since it
>has
>been in storage for so long should I use mineral oil and mimic a break-in
>or just
>use the regular oil.
>
>Thanks for the advice.
>
>Kim Nicholas
>RV9A - bolting the wings on today!
>Seattle
>
>
Find high-speed net deals comparison-shop your local providers here.
https://broadband.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
| Subject: | Re: first engine start oil question |
Kim:
If the engine has not been run before (or not since overhaul) use the break-in
oil. If it was pickled after it was broken in you don't need the break-in oil.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Cahoon @ Aircraft Engravers" <wayne(at)engravers.net> |
, ,
, ,
, ,
, ,
, ,
, ,
, ,
, ,
, ,
, ,
, ,
, ,
, ,
,
| Subject: | Fuel Cap Engraving, Labeling, Indentifying |
Have your Fuel Caps engraved, it's permanent and easy to read. Aircraft Engravers
has been engraving fuel caps for over 14 years.
You can see our web page at http://engravers.net/aircraft/fuel_caps.htm
Other types of engraving jobs can be viewed at http://engravers.net/main/ac_products.htm
There are a few sets of loaner fuel caps for the more common styles if your tanks
are wet.
FREE shipping by USPS Priority mail for all fuel cap engraving orders in the month
of February.
Wayne Cahoon
Aircraft Engravers
(860) 653-2780
(860) 653-7324 Fax
http://engravers.net/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "austin" <austin(at)uniserve.com> |
> Austin, how low is low on the pressure of the nose tire? I run mine at
> about 20 to 25 psi.
>
> Alex Peterson
I try no more than 25 psi.
Higher causes lots of skip and bounce........
Austin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Good" <chrisjgood(at)lycos.com> |
Wheeler,
Thanks for the update on the Trio autopilot.
You talk about intercepting the localizer. I couldn't find anything on the Trio
web site about connecting to the +/- CDI signal from a nav receiver. Did I
miss this, or are you actually intercepting a GPS version of the localizer track?
Regards,
Chris Good,
West Bend, WI.
--
--------- Original Message ---------
DATE: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 08:21:59
From: Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
>Sam,
>
>I got a chance to fly with Chuck, the grand bruhah engineer and chief duck
>at Trio the other day. He's one of the nicest guys you'll ever meet. It was
>a smooth as glass day so we played with it and came up with 4, 4, for the
>intercept gains and 7 for the pullin, as the most sensitive without hunting.
>We also found that the auto turn rate worked the best at various speeds. It
>now seems to stay within .01 nm or 60 ft of track and intercepts nicely. He
>also got a good look at the weakness of the display in direct sunlight, they
>are soon to offer, if not already, the LCD version I believe. I made a
>little 1 inch shade that sits just above the display below the upper
>switches. It has two tabs that catch the upper mount screws.
>
>
>He felt that as long as the servo arm lengths for the attachments to the
>control system were similar to mine then these settings would be fairly good
>for
>most of us. I believe I used the longest arm length the servo had to offer,
>and then attached to the wing belcrank such that the servo arm still has
>1/8" travel before contacting the servo stops, not sure what those actual
>arm lengths were though.
>
>I've been practicing intercepting the localizer from about 125 degrees off
>course and it turns into it onto track within one tick on the OBS needle.
>
>It really improves upon the Navaid for precision and info display. I did
>suggest that they let the TOP be more then 1 nm.
>
>W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George P. Tyler" <gptyler(at)metrocast.net> |
This thread is about dead but thought I would tell you all what one
RV'er does on his outside parked plane. He puts a suction type cup over
each gas cap (like window carrying suction cups), says he has had no
water in tank problem since. gptyler 226DG
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net> |
All this talk about shimmy and airing tires has be wondering. What are the
-6A owners, who have converted to Michelin AirStop tubes, doing for the nose
tire? Desser emailed me that Michelin doesn't have one for the 11-4.00x5
nose tire....will someother size, like the ones for the mains, work in the
nose wheel?
Marty in Brentwood TN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net> |
Don't know about other ones; however the good news is that the tubes sold by
van are pretty slow leak as is. They seem to leak down at about the same
rate as the Airstops. They have other shortcomings though so be sure and
replace them whenever you change the nose tire.
> From: "Emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net>
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2004 08:49:21 -0600
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Shimmy
>
>
> All this talk about shimmy and airing tires has be wondering. What are the
> -6A owners, who have converted to Michelin AirStop tubes, doing for the nose
> tire? Desser emailed me that Michelin doesn't have one for the 11-4.00x5
> nose tire....will someother size, like the ones for the mains, work in the
> nose wheel?
> Marty in Brentwood TN
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Vans Alternator info |
This info is probably in the archives but maybe it will still be helpful
for someone in the near term.
The 35amp Vans alternator on my RV-6 died this morning after 545 hrs.
This was no surprise since I had recently started picking up some whine
in the headsets and this is a pretty long run for this alternator. A
test on the alternator machine at AutoZone confirmed the dead diodes. I
realize this alternator doesn't have the best reputation among Vans
pilots but I plan to replace it with the same unit so I don't have to
mess around with different wiring or brackets.
After some research in the aviation department of a couple of auto parts
stores, I found that the alternator is a NipponDenso as used on
1976-1979 Honda Civic CVCC without air conditioning. A common number you
can find in Duralast and other reman alternators is 14184. The
Beck/Arnley number is 186-0100. I knew I had the right unit when I
checked Vans catalog and their part number for the 35amp alternator is
also 14184. The fan will need to be removed since we run the alternator
backwards from the car application.
The alternator is available locally for less than $50 and is in Vans
catalog for $90 (plus shipping). Uh.....guess I will buy it locally.....
Sam Buchanan
http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Scotch Brite Wheel |
Do anyone know where I get a small Scotch Brite Wheel locally that I can put on
a die grinder. I know I can order one but I wanted to get one today if I can.
I live in the Seattle area (Eastside).
Why can't all Home Depot's be Aircraft Spruce!
Karie Daniel
Sammamish, WA
RV-7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dr. Leathers" <DrLeathers(at)822heal.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Scotch Brite Wheel |
Karie,
Mclendons hardware in Woodinville has the small ones for die girnders etc.
(no big ones though)
Here is a link http://www.mclendons.com/StoreInfo.html I was there 2 weeks
ago, and they had several sizes.
Doc
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Scotch Brite Wheel
>
> Do anyone know where I get a small Scotch Brite Wheel locally that I can
put on a die grinder. I know I can order one but I wanted to get one today
if I can. I live in the Seattle area (Eastside).
>
> Why can't all Home Depot's be Aircraft Spruce!
>
> Karie Daniel
> Sammamish, WA
> RV-7A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 1/24/2004 6:53:31 AM Pacific Standard Time,
emrath(at)comcast.net writes:
All this talk about shimmy and airing tires has be wondering. What are the
-6A owners, who have converted to Michelin AirStop tubes, doing for the nose
tire? Desser emailed me that Michelin doesn't have one for the 11-4.00x5
nose tire....will someother size, like the ones for the mains, work in the
nose wheel?
Not necessary. Main gear tires with the standard tubes require air every
month and the nose gear tire with a standard tube requires air only about twice
a
year. I use 31 psi all around.
GV (RV-6A N1GV flying 675 hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: >Re:Van's Alternator info |
Thanks Sam;
That info is a keeper,so I printed it for the plane file.
Keep up the good work,
Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
Charleston, Arkansas
"Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: >Re:Van's Alternator info |
Oldsfolks(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Thanks Sam;
> That info is a keeper,so I printed it for the plane file.
> Keep up the good work,
>
>
> Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
> RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
> Charleston, Arkansas
> "Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers"
Thanks, Bob. Here is one more tidbit of info I neglected to pass on. I
have been using a Gates belt, #6735, (I use a Sharpie to write this and
the alternator source info on the alternator so I will have it with me
when I break down at the tiny airport in Podunkville....) with the Vans
alternator. This is a power takeoff belt that is commonly used for
driving the mower on lawn tractors. As such, it is a heavy duty item and
shows no signs of wear after 545 hrs in service. It fits the pulleys
just fine on my O-320, and is the minimum length possible for this
installation.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
rv-list
| Subject: | lost info .......... |
Hi Folks
can the person who had 2 cooley hat switches for sale a few months ag0
please email me privately if the switches are still available.
also
can the person who was trying to sell a governor adapter and steel line
on ebay a few months ago email me privately if the items are still
available.
my computer ate my email files and I lost the info.......
Thanks
Gert
gert(at)execpc.com
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harvey Sigmon" <rv6hes(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vans Alternator info |
Sam: I found the same alternator at Advance Auto. It was listed as a 1974
Honda Civic, uses a remote voltage regulator. I purchased the push on
connector from Van's. So far after 200 hrs no problem, my concern was the
pulley but I stayed with the one that come with the Alternator.
Harvey Sigmon N602RV
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: RV-List: Vans Alternator info
>
> This info is probably in the archives but maybe it will still be helpful
> for someone in the near term.
>
> The 35amp Vans alternator on my RV-6 died this morning after 545 hrs.
> This was no surprise since I had recently started picking up some whine
> in the headsets and this is a pretty long run for this alternator. A
> test on the alternator machine at AutoZone confirmed the dead diodes. I
> realize this alternator doesn't have the best reputation among Vans
> pilots but I plan to replace it with the same unit so I don't have to
> mess around with different wiring or brackets.
>
> After some research in the aviation department of a couple of auto parts
> stores, I found that the alternator is a NipponDenso as used on
> 1976-1979 Honda Civic CVCC without air conditioning. A common number you
> can find in Duralast and other reman alternators is 14184. The
> Beck/Arnley number is 186-0100. I knew I had the right unit when I
> checked Vans catalog and their part number for the 35amp alternator is
> also 14184. The fan will need to be removed since we run the alternator
> backwards from the car application.
>
> The alternator is available locally for less than $50 and is in Vans
> catalog for $90 (plus shipping). Uh.....guess I will buy it locally.....
>
> Sam Buchanan
> http://thervjournal.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Vans Alternator info |
Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2004 09:58:32 -0600
>
>
>This info is probably in the archives but maybe it will still be helpful
>for someone in the near term.
>
>The 35amp Vans alternator on my RV-6 died this morning after 545 hrs.
>This was no surprise since I had recently started picking up some whine
>in the headsets and this is a pretty long run for this alternator. A
>test on the alternator machine at AutoZone confirmed the dead diodes. I
>realize this alternator doesn't have the best reputation among Vans
>pilots but I plan to replace it with the same unit so I don't have to
>mess around with different wiring or brackets.
>
>After some research in the aviation department of a couple of auto parts
>stores, I found that the alternator is a NipponDenso as used on
>1976-1979 Honda Civic CVCC without air conditioning. A common number you
>can find in Duralast and other reman alternators is 14184. The
>Beck/Arnley number is 186-0100. I knew I had the right unit when I
>checked Vans catalog and their part number for the 35amp alternator is
>also 14184. The fan will need to be removed since we run the alternator
>backwards from the car application.
>
>The alternator is available locally for less than $50 and is in Vans
>catalog for $90 (plus shipping). Uh.....guess I will buy it locally.....
>
>Sam Buchanan
>http://thervjournal.com
Sammy,
Good work, bud! I just checked Autozone online and they have them in stock,
for $52.99 with a $10 core charge. This is for the 14184 Duralast unit. I
have to go there today to exchange a set of shocks that didn't fit my truck
and I reckon the refund would be best put to use buying a spare alternator!
Thanks for the research!
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
alternator still works, but ya just never know....
Check out the coupons and bargains on MSN Offers!
http://shopping.msn.com/softcontent/softcontent.aspx?scmId=1418
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vans Alternator info |
Good information Sam, I seemed to remember something written a few years ago
abour removing the fan so went into the archives to see if I could find it.
Here is what I found written by Bob Nuckolls at that time. I only post
this because
I have run the same alternator for 15 years with the fan turning the
"wrong" direction. :-)
Jerry
----------------------------begin
>I removed the fan because it turns in the wrong direction when mounted
>on an aircraft. On cars it rotates to the left. Van's alternator also
>has the fan removed.
>
It is not generally necessary to remove fans when they're
turned "the wrong direction" . . . centrifugal fans on the
front of alternators run only slightly less efficiently than
when turned the right direction.
Alternators with external fans are at risk for overheat
when running without the fan . . . you may want to do some
simple in-flight cooling tests to make sure there's enough
ambient air flow . . ..
Nipon-Dienso alternators have internal fans . . .
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------end
Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
>This info is probably in the archives but maybe it will still be helpful
>for someone in the near term.
>
>The 35amp Vans alternator on my RV-6 died this morning after 545 hrs.
>This was no surprise since I had recently started picking up some whine
>in the headsets and this is a pretty long run for this alternator. A
>test on the alternator machine at AutoZone confirmed the dead diodes. I
>realize this alternator doesn't have the best reputation among Vans
>pilots but I plan to replace it with the same unit so I don't have to
>mess around with different wiring or brackets.
>
>After some research in the aviation department of a couple of auto parts
>stores, I found that the alternator is a NipponDenso as used on
>1976-1979 Honda Civic CVCC without air conditioning. A common number you
>can find in Duralast and other reman alternators is 14184. The
>Beck/Arnley number is 186-0100. I knew I had the right unit when I
>checked Vans catalog and their part number for the 35amp alternator is
>also 14184. The fan will need to be removed since we run the alternator
>backwards from the car application.
>
>The alternator is available locally for less than $50 and is in Vans
>catalog for $90 (plus shipping). Uh.....guess I will buy it locally.....
>
>Sam Buchanan
>http://thervjournal.com
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <nauga(at)brick.net> |
I (finally) made the first flight of my RV-4 today.
12 years of building, 0.3 hours of flight time
Everything was pretty much as expected. After
quite a bit of thought I decided to make it short
and circle a few times over the field just under the
STL class B floor. The temptation to leave the pattern
and actually do something was strong, but I stuck to
the plan :-)
Max speed ~140 KIAS, max altitude 1500 ft.
Heavy right wing, and I'll need to put a tab on
the rudder. No _major_ squawks, a few other minor
ones. Other than the rigging it feels fantastic
both in the air and on the ground.
Takeoff was, uh, exhilirating. I knew from the taxi
tests that it would lift off early, and was ready.
I was almost ~1000 ft AGL before the end of the runway.
Pretty good nose-down attitude at 120 KIAS to hold
altitude, too. It feels like it will really move
out when the time comes.
Slowing down for landing was more difficult than
in the -6s I've flown, but once I got it below
flap speed everything felt the same. Slight crosswind,
steady approach speed, a few bounces. I'll take it.
Cockpit video to come.
For those of you still building, keep at it. I can
finally say it was worth every hour and dollar I spent.
It was fun building, now comes the *really* fun part.
Dave 'wired' Hyde
nauga(at)brick.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vans Alternator info |
Jerry Springer wrote:
>
> Good information Sam, I seemed to remember something written a few years ago
> abour removing the fan so went into the archives to see if I could find it.
> Here is what I found written by Bob Nuckolls at that time. I only post
> this because
> I have run the same alternator for 15 years with the fan turning the
> "wrong" direction. :-)
>
> Jerry
Good info, Jerry. I thought I had recalled reading something from Bob
about fans, but I decided to remove the fan since the clearance with the
cowling is so tight and I thought there might be interference.
I have a blast tube pointed at the back of the alternator, and either
because of it or just dumb luck, the alternator must be cooled
sufficiently on my installation since the original alternator lasted
over 500 hrs.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Milner" <tldrgred(at)execpc.com> |
Congrats Dave. Try pinching the ailerons before any trim tab work. It`s in
archives and it really works. My right wing was heavy and I just pinched the
left aileron and the left went just a tad heavy. It`s trial an error.
Red Milner
RV-4 79KM 395hrs. (2hrs. upside down)
based @ UES
----- Original Message -----
From: <nauga(at)brick.net>
Subject: RV-List:
>
> I (finally) made the first flight of my RV-4 today.
> 12 years of building, 0.3 hours of flight time
> Everything was pretty much as expected. After
> quite a bit of thought I decided to make it short
> and circle a few times over the field just under the
> STL class B floor. The temptation to leave the pattern
> and actually do something was strong, but I stuck to
> the plan :-)
>
> Max speed ~140 KIAS, max altitude 1500 ft.
>
> Heavy right wing, and I'll need to put a tab on
> the rudder. No _major_ squawks, a few other minor
> ones. Other than the rigging it feels fantastic
> both in the air and on the ground.
>
> Takeoff was, uh, exhilirating. I knew from the taxi
> tests that it would lift off early, and was ready.
> I was almost ~1000 ft AGL before the end of the runway.
> Pretty good nose-down attitude at 120 KIAS to hold
> altitude, too. It feels like it will really move
> out when the time comes.
>
> Slowing down for landing was more difficult than
> in the -6s I've flown, but once I got it below
> flap speed everything felt the same. Slight crosswind,
> steady approach speed, a few bounces. I'll take it.
> Cockpit video to come.
>
> For those of you still building, keep at it. I can
> finally say it was worth every hour and dollar I spent.
> It was fun building, now comes the *really* fun part.
>
> Dave 'wired' Hyde
> nauga(at)brick.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rocket-List: Rocket engines for sale. |
That's OK Dave, post away after all FAA does require engine & FUEL CAPS as
part of a working airplane. Engines require identification and so do FUEL
INLET HOLES. TIO540AC2 may not fit an RV-4 BUT there are lots of us who know
someone looking for RV/ Rocket/ F-1 related priducts. KABONG Do Not
Archive (GBA)
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Stroud" <davestroud(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Rocket-List: Rocket engines for sale.
> --> Rocket-List message posted by: "David Stroud"
>
> Please excuse this one time intrusion to your list. We have two, TIO540AC2
engines for
> sale, as removed. Approx 700 hours each, one 3 blade prop. Logs etc.
Firewall forward with
> all controls. Aircraft rear ended on ground. Logs will be available in
about a week. If interested,
> please email me off list and we'll see what we can work out. 310 hp at
2,575 rpm. They'll
> be a bargain. Thanks.
>
> Dave Stroud
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
For anyone not wanting to build, my RV-8 is for sale -- time to start
another project. Please direct interested parties to...
http://www.rv-8.com/ForSale.htm
Randy Lervold
RV-8 N558RL, 366 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Yeah Chris,
its tracking the GPS, but both nav radios display the localizer. So if the
satellites are happy it will fly the localizer dead nuts (as opposed to live
ones).
On the other hand the Navaid never flew the localizer that well on either
the digital or analog data sources. On the analog it would wander about 3
ticks either side, on the digital it would stay straight, but off track on
side or the other.
and this unit is only meant to be a VFR navigational enhancement device to
be used strictly for the purpose of complementing VFR operations only. I
merely used this example to demonstrate its accuracy even in the most
sensitive and critical segments of National Aerospace envrionment. It will
neither save your VFR butt in IMC conditions, nor will it assist you in
evading any AIM-7 sindwinders launched from randomly moving presidential
TFRs.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vans Alternator info |
Sam Buchanan wrote:
>>>But why not replace the diode plate? My aviation alternator (though
>>>different from yours) has had the diode plate replaced twice, the last
>>>time with a heavy duty plate.
>>>Linn
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>Certainly not a bad venue to take for such a repair. Something else that is
>>subject to wear is the bearings. If a new alternator shoots craps in a
>>hundred hours or so, then diodes alone would be great. After 500 hours or
>>so, I'd rather just yank the whole thing and start again anew.
>>
>>Just my view on it.
>>
>>Brian Denk
>>RV8 N94BD
>
>
>
> Precisely. Besides, the auto parts places don't list the diodes as a
> replacement part for this particular unit, probably because the entire
> alternator can be replaced for less than $50.
>
> Replacing the diodes in an archaic, megabuck *aviation* alternator may
> very well be cost effective, but probably not in a cheap, rebuilt Honda
> alternator.
>
> Sam Buchanan
Somebody pointed out that I now have a lifetime warranty on the new
alternator.........as long as I own the 1978 Honda Civic CVCC!!!! :-)
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jared Boone <jboone(at)earfeast.com> |
| Subject: | For Sale: RV7 wing and tail kits |
Reality has set in, and I've decided that now is not the time for me to
build an airplane. So I'm selling my RV7 tail and wing kits. Here's your
chance to save a little money on both kits, with some of the work
already done, and avoid the factory lead-time on the wing kit.
I have done about 70% of the metal work on the tail kit, but have not
primed or assembled the pieces yet. A local "Fed" came by and looked at
my work and said it was outstanding. The wing kit is completely
untouched. I have inventoried the parts and sorted most of the hardware,
and that's it. I ordered the Duckworks landing lights (the square ones,
I think), electric trim, and the capacitive fuel sender.
The parts are located near Portland, OR and are available for
inspection. I would prefer to sell the kits to someone in the area, and
could even arrange delivery within 100 miles or so. I am asking $6,500
for both kits.
I also have old preview plans (circa 1998) for the -6 and the -8, if
anyone's interested in those.
Thanks!
- Jared Boone
jboone(at)earfeast.com
(503) 320-2066
Portland, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 First Flight |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 First Flight |
Congratulations Dave.
Persistence pays off. I started my 6A 13 years ago. There have been huge time
gaps in the work but plan to fly it this summer.
Dale Ensing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Alternator Pulley |
Mark Landoll in Oklahoma has the large alternator pulley. His ad in the
"Engines" calssified of Sport Aviation also lists alternator and regulator.
405-392-3847.
I don't get a commission but I installed one of his Harmonic Dampeners and
I'm very happy with it.
Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
Charleston, Arkansas
"Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers"
________________________________________________________________________________
List:
Anyone know how to reach some of the Indy guys that have put the 540 in the
8?
Thanks !!
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, NC N910LL
196 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Cold weather - cabin heat |
Just an FYI:
Yesterday, I flew my 6A with the OAT at -21C, or -4F. This was the
coldest OAT that I've experienced in the plane, and I'm quite pleased
with the cabin comfort. A couple weeks ago, I spent some time sealing
the various and numerous air leaks in the baggage area, and it payed
off. Although we had our jackets on, we could have removed them and
remained warm. I have two heat muffs, each feeding a separate heater on
the firewall. I leaned to peak EGT, which also makes a difference in
the heater output. Frost on the canopy was a bit of a problem until
about 5 minutes into the flight (there were two of us on board), but the
muffin fan defrosters kept the forward visibility ok until the whole
works cleared off. I could not have made the flight without those
defrosters, unless we would have been willing to keep the canopy cracked
open until takeoff (in which case we might have croaked from frostbite).
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 434 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric seat heat |
Randy, perhaps you've never owned a car with heated seats. They are truly a
wonderful investment. My vote is for the carbon fiber pads as they are the
easiest to trim. Don't want no stinkin control box, just a high/low/off
switch and a hidden relay. I've got them in two of my cars and my RV6A. Then
again I do live in Canada...
Norman Hunger
> Guys, I'm just not understanding all this focus on heated seats. Seems to
me
> that they add cost and complexity when it's something you're only going to
> use occasionally. I think a MUCH better solution is to choose any of the
> products from Gerbings, namely their motorcycle products, and be done with
> it. That way the vest, jacket, gloves, or seatpad can be used for other
> things.
>
> I would submit that you or your passengers would be much warmer wearing a
> heated jacket liner ($199, http://www.gerbing.com/pages/clothing/jl.html)
> than merely sitting on a heated pad. If heated seats is what you want
> Gerbings also offers those, called "heated stadium cusion".
>
> Anyway, check www.gerbings.com.
>
> Randy Lervold
> RV-8, with 12v power socket in front and back for whatever electrical
> appliance you want.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Shemp" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cold weather - cabin heat |
Hey Alex, how did you seal the baggage compartment? Im planning on using
the bicycle intertube idea on the rails but still have large air gaps on
each side of the canopy behind the seats. Im freeeeezzzzing up there. I
have one heat muff and one firewall opening, on the wrong side of course.
Im thinking about feeding my current heat muff with an additional one, sort
of a pre-heater.
Oh yeah, what the heck are muffin fan defrosters?
Jeff Dowling
RV-6a/ 9 hours
Chicago/ Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
Subject: RV-List: Cold weather - cabin heat
>
> Just an FYI:
>
> Yesterday, I flew my 6A with the OAT at -21C, or -4F. This was the
> coldest OAT that I've experienced in the plane, and I'm quite pleased
> with the cabin comfort. A couple weeks ago, I spent some time sealing
> the various and numerous air leaks in the baggage area, and it payed
> off. Although we had our jackets on, we could have removed them and
> remained warm. I have two heat muffs, each feeding a separate heater on
> the firewall. I leaned to peak EGT, which also makes a difference in
> the heater output. Frost on the canopy was a bit of a problem until
> about 5 minutes into the flight (there were two of us on board), but the
> muffin fan defrosters kept the forward visibility ok until the whole
> works cleared off. I could not have made the flight without those
> defrosters, unless we would have been willing to keep the canopy cracked
> open until takeoff (in which case we might have croaked from frostbite).
>
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> RV6-A N66AP 434 hours
> www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <Tim(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cold weather - cabin heat |
Hi Alex,
Where does one get these muffin heaters? Are they switched seperately? How
are they plumed, or do they just use air from behind the panel?
Thanks, I live in central oregon and although it isn't North Dakota weather
it still can get pretty cold. I installed two heat muffs as you did but no
defrost as of yet.
Thanks
Tim Bryan
RV-6 N616TB
-------Original Message-------
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Sunday, January 25, 2004 11:26:54
Subject: RV-List: Cold weather - cabin heat
Just an FYI:
Yesterday, I flew my 6A with the OAT at -21C, or -4F. This was the
coldest OAT that I've experienced in the plane, and I'm quite pleased
with the cabin comfort. A couple weeks ago, I spent some time sealing
the various and numerous air leaks in the baggage area, and it payed
off. Although we had our jackets on, we could have removed them and
remained warm. I have two heat muffs, each feeding a separate heater on
the firewall. I leaned to peak EGT, which also makes a difference in
the heater output. Frost on the canopy was a bit of a problem until
about 5 minutes into the flight (there were two of us on board), but the
muffin fan defrosters kept the forward visibility ok until the whole
works cleared off. I could not have made the flight without those
defrosters, unless we would have been willing to keep the canopy cracked
open until takeoff (in which case we might have croaked from frostbite).
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 434 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Seat heat....the sequel |
> Thanks to all who have pointed me to places to find seat heat.
>
> I have sent out requests for quotes as not many places actually
> displayed pricing for their seat heat, some went as far as to state that
> only their rep's are allowed to install and hence those are the only
> folks they will sell to. same held true for heating pads from Car
> dealerships.
In my experience, the car dealerships do not do this work. They farm it out.
Ask where they get their upholstery work done. Better yet, use the yellow
pages and start phoning around. Look up "Auto Upholstery". One more thing,
don't tell them you are building an airplane as many shops have a liability
fear. Tell them you are building a street rod. It should not take very long
to find some one in your area who will sell you a kit. Took me less than ten
minutes.
Norman Hunger
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Cold weather - cabin heat |
> Hey Alex, how did you seal the baggage compartment? Im
> planning on using the bicycle intertube idea on the rails but
> still have large air gaps on each side of the canopy behind
> the seats. Im freeeeezzzzing up there. I have one heat muff
> and one firewall opening, on the wrong side of course. Im
> thinking about feeding my current heat muff with an
> additional one, sort of a pre-heater.
>
> Oh yeah, what the heck are muffin fan defrosters?
The muffin fans are used to bake muffins up on the glareshield. Well,
actually, they are just little 12 volt fans of the sort one might find
on the back of a computer. I got mine at Radio Shack. They just blow
air on the windscreen from behind the panel.
Regarding the baggage area, I just stuffed little pieces of foam rubber
into the triangular gaps on the bulkhead. I put a little appropriately
shaped piece of felt against the sides where the flap torque tubes exit.
Any gaps along the outer perimeter, where the skins attach to the
bulkhead, were filled with RTV (I know, my airplane is going to corrode
down to a little pile of white dust because of this).
Sealing around the (mine is a slider) canopy is a bit more work. I used
some silicone rubber weatherstripping along the back and sides of the
slider. The stuff I used is M-D Building Products, WS108 68676 (upc
code 43374 68676). Call around, I don't remember where I got it, but it
was something like Home Depot. It is sort of a tear drop shaped
extrusion with stick-em on one side. Silicone rubber will remain
resilient down to much colder than I will ever see. I applied it to the
fuse turtle deck skin from longeron to longeron over the top, and to the
inside of the sheet metal along the sides of the slider. That
installation is a little tough, because one has to sort of guess as to
just where to put it. Too high, and it will not contact the longeron,
too low and the canopy won't shut. The idea is for it to drop down
against that piece which is riveted to the longeron.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 434 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Blanton Fortson <blanton(at)alaska.net> |
)
| Subject: | Re: Seat heat....the finale ; |
)
Heated seats can be a good thing.
The Gerbings stuff works well, too.
www.gerbings.com.
I was driving a Volvo Cross Country wagon once in the winter here in
Alaska when I noticed a wisp of smoke issuing forth from between my
legs. The smoke rapidly began to increase. I bailed out and watched the
car turn into a bonfire within two minutes. It seems as if the foam in
the leather upholstered Volvo seat cushions was not exactly
fire-retardant. Ouch. Car totaled. If that had happened in an airplane
I'd be dead.
12v Heated seats are a high amperage deal. Plenty of energy ignite
flameable materials if there is a short or other problem. Before I
installed a seat heater in an airplane I'd extensively torch test all
related materials (cushions, uphostery, etc.)
While I'm on the subject of fire, I'll share with you one of my
personal risk management strategies. For airplane use I wear only
natural fibers, particularly next to my skin. That means Duofold
(cotton/wool) longjohns or silk underwea, wool pants are best but
cotton jeans will do. NO poly next to skin. In an otherwise survivable
flash flash fire poly can melt to your skin causing a sort of burn
which you may not recover from.
B.
On Jan 25, 2004, at 12:01 PM, Norman Hunger wrote:
>
>> Thanks to all who have pointed me to places to find seat heat.
>>
>> I have sent out requests for quotes as not many places actually
>> displayed pricing for their seat heat, some went as far as to state
>> that
>> only their rep's are allowed to install and hence those are the only
>> folks they will sell to. same held true for heating pads from Car
>> dealerships.
>
> In my experience, the car dealerships do not do this work. They farm
> it out.
> Ask where they get their upholstery work done. Better yet, use the
> yellow
> pages and start phoning around. Look up "Auto Upholstery". One more
> thing,
> don't tell them you are building an airplane as many shops have a
> liability
> fear. Tell them you are building a street rod. It should not take very
> long
> to find some one in your area who will sell you a kit. Took me less
> than ten
> minutes.
>
> Norman Hunger
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Blanton Fortson <blanton(at)alaska.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cold weather - cabin heat (muffin fan pics) |
Good muffin fan heater pictures here:
http://www.surplussales.com/Fans-Blowers/FansBlow-3.html
b.
http://homepage.mac.com/blanton
On Jan 25, 2004, at 11:57 AM, Tim Bryan wrote:
>
> Hi Alex,
> Where does one get these muffin heaters? Are they switched
> seperately? How
> are they plumed, or do they just use air from behind the panel?
>
> Thanks, I live in central oregon and although it isn't North Dakota
> weather
> it still can get pretty cold. I installed two heat muffs as you did
> but no
> defrost as of yet.
>
> Thanks
> Tim Bryan
> RV-6 N616TB
>
> -------Original Message-------
>
> From: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Sunday, January 25, 2004 11:26:54
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Cold weather - cabin heat
>
>
> Just an FYI:
>
> Yesterday, I flew my 6A with the OAT at -21C, or -4F. This was the
> coldest OAT that I've experienced in the plane, and I'm quite pleased
> with the cabin comfort. A couple weeks ago, I spent some time sealing
> the various and numerous air leaks in the baggage area, and it payed
> off. Although we had our jackets on, we could have removed them and
> remained warm. I have two heat muffs, each feeding a separate heater on
> the firewall. I leaned to peak EGT, which also makes a difference in
> the heater output. Frost on the canopy was a bit of a problem until
> about 5 minutes into the flight (there were two of us on board), but
> the
> muffin fan defrosters kept the forward visibility ok until the whole
> works cleared off. I could not have made the flight without those
> defrosters, unless we would have been willing to keep the canopy
> cracked
> open until takeoff (in which case we might have croaked from
> frostbite).
>
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> RV6-A N66AP 434 hours
> www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
>
>
> .
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boss" <bossone(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cold weather - cabin heat (muffin fan pics) |
Get em free out of an old computer case.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Blanton Fortson" <blanton(at)alaska.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cold weather - cabin heat (muffin fan pics)
>
> Good muffin fan heater pictures here:
>
> http://www.surplussales.com/Fans-Blowers/FansBlow-3.html
>
>
> b.
>
> http://homepage.mac.com/blanton
>
>
> On Jan 25, 2004, at 11:57 AM, Tim Bryan wrote:
>
> >
> > Hi Alex,
> > Where does one get these muffin heaters? Are they switched
> > seperately? How
> > are they plumed, or do they just use air from behind the panel?
> >
> > Thanks, I live in central oregon and although it isn't North Dakota
> > weather
> > it still can get pretty cold. I installed two heat muffs as you did
> > but no
> > defrost as of yet.
> >
> > Thanks
> > Tim Bryan
> > RV-6 N616TB
> >
> > -------Original Message-------
> >
> > From: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Date: Sunday, January 25, 2004 11:26:54
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV-List: Cold weather - cabin heat
> >
> >
> > Just an FYI:
> >
> > Yesterday, I flew my 6A with the OAT at -21C, or -4F. This was the
> > coldest OAT that I've experienced in the plane, and I'm quite pleased
> > with the cabin comfort. A couple weeks ago, I spent some time sealing
> > the various and numerous air leaks in the baggage area, and it payed
> > off. Although we had our jackets on, we could have removed them and
> > remained warm. I have two heat muffs, each feeding a separate heater on
> > the firewall. I leaned to peak EGT, which also makes a difference in
> > the heater output. Frost on the canopy was a bit of a problem until
> > about 5 minutes into the flight (there were two of us on board), but
> > the
> > muffin fan defrosters kept the forward visibility ok until the whole
> > works cleared off. I could not have made the flight without those
> > defrosters, unless we would have been willing to keep the canopy
> > cracked
> > open until takeoff (in which case we might have croaked from
> > frostbite).
> >
> >
> > Alex Peterson
> > Maple Grove, MN
> > RV6-A N66AP 434 hours
> > www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
> >
> >
> > .
> >
> >
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nels Hanson <pa201950(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Cold weather - cabin heat |
My two cents worth: I have flown for the last two
winters with one heat muff putting heat out from the
passenger side of the plane,hitting the passenger
around the chest area,while my feet froze. This fall I
had a second heat muff installed and put one source of
heat down by my feet and the other source down by the
passenger's feet. Problem solved. I figure I am now
good to go comfortably in normal clothes and tennis
shoes to about 5 below(F). Any colder than that will
necessitate me wearing winter clothes while flying. I
try and do a lot of winter flying and with the second
muff and redistribution I can now enjoy the flight
instead of shivering.
--- Alex Peterson wrote:
>
>
>
> > Hey Alex, how did you seal the baggage
> compartment? Im
> > planning on using the bicycle intertube idea on
> the rails but
> > still have large air gaps on each side of the
> canopy behind
> > the seats. Im freeeeezzzzing up there. I have
> one heat muff
> > and one firewall opening, on the wrong side of
> course. Im
> > thinking about feeding my current heat muff with
> an
> > additional one, sort of a pre-heater.
> >
> > Oh yeah, what the heck are muffin fan defrosters?
>
> The muffin fans are used to bake muffins up on the
> glareshield. Well,
> actually, they are just little 12 volt fans of the
> sort one might find
> on the back of a computer. I got mine at Radio
> Shack. They just blow
> air on the windscreen from behind the panel.
>
> Regarding the baggage area, I just stuffed little
> pieces of foam rubber
> into the triangular gaps on the bulkhead. I put a
> little appropriately
> shaped piece of felt against the sides where the
> flap torque tubes exit.
> Any gaps along the outer perimeter, where the skins
> attach to the
> bulkhead, were filled with RTV (I know, my airplane
> is going to corrode
> down to a little pile of white dust because of
> this).
>
> Sealing around the (mine is a slider) canopy is a
> bit more work. I used
> some silicone rubber weatherstripping along the back
> and sides of the
> slider. The stuff I used is M-D Building Products,
> WS108 68676 (upc
> code 43374 68676). Call around, I don't remember
> where I got it, but it
> was something like Home Depot. It is sort of a tear
> drop shaped
> extrusion with stick-em on one side. Silicone
> rubber will remain
> resilient down to much colder than I will ever see.
> I applied it to the
> fuse turtle deck skin from longeron to longeron over
> the top, and to the
> inside of the sheet metal along the sides of the
> slider. That
> installation is a little tough, because one has to
> sort of guess as to
> just where to put it. Too high, and it will not
> contact the longeron,
> too low and the canopy won't shut. The idea is for
> it to drop down
> against that piece which is riveted to the longeron.
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> RV6-A N66AP 434 hours
> www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cold weather - cabin heat (muffin fan pics) |
The computer case ones are kind of thick and bulky. CPU cooling fans
are much slimmer (<1/2 inch). The Shack has a nice one for about $12,
p/n 273-240. I put two of 'em in the glareshield.
Jeff Point
RV-6 finishing up
Milwaukee WI
Boss wrote:
>
>Get em free out of an old computer case.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cold weather - cabin heat (muffin fan pics) |
how'd ya wire em up?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terri Watson" <windsaloft(at)rmisp.com> |
| Subject: | RV-7A Tip Tanks for Sale |
I have sold my RV-7A kit (sigh, due to an unexpected move), but I still have
a set of two RV-7A tip tanks with the cutout for flush set lights available.
They were purchased new in June 2002, pulled out of the box once to be
looked at, then put back away --- i.e. brand spanking new, no work done.
All paperwork, directions and original invoice have been received. Van's
has discontinued offering these items that add 8.5 gallons a side to an RV.
You cannot do aerobatics with fuel IN THE TANKS, but you can do them, with
empty tip tanks.
Extended Range Fuel Tip Tanks
8.5 US Gallons
each
Developed by Jon Johanson for His Round the World Flights
These fiberglass fuel tanks look like the stock RV tip, but add about
8.5 gallons each to fuel capacity. Of course, using them decreases the
baggage allowance. The lights themselves are not included. These fuel tanks
are only for tri-gear RV-7A. This is a pair, one left and one right.
The close-out price on Van's website for them is $2275 plus shipping.
New were a bit more. I will pass them on to you for a flat $2000, shipping
included to anywhere in the US. If Canada or elsewhere, we'll work
something out to share cost of shipping. The tanks are in Wyoming, my old
home, with my hangar partner who will ship them out. I am physically
located in Florida as of two weeks ago. Wow, it is warm here........... :=)
Please contact me via email, and I ask for patience --- between the
move and traveling a lot for work, it can take me a day or two to get back
to you. Thanks.
Terri Watson
Winds Aloft Aviation, Inc.
windsaloft(at)rmisp.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Cold weather - cabin heat (long) |
Excellent winterizing tips from Alex Peterson.
I'll second everything that Alex suggests and will suggest a couple more:
1) Seal any gap between the wing attach/carrythough bulkhead and the forward
seat skins.
2) Seal any other holes where you can feel a cold draft coming in, anywhere
in the cockpit, such as the seat belt mounts where they penetrate the floor
skins.
3) Insulate the whole cockpit area with 1/8" black soundproofing foam, with
fabric over top. Bare aluminum just sucks the heat right out of you. This
does add a few pounds (5-10) compared to the painted grey metal interior
approach.
4) This is an option but it works for me: I ran my heat muffs in series into
a single Van's air mixing valve at the firewall, then into a fibreglass
plenum (also known as a piccolo tube) to distribute the heat across the
front of the cabin. I have two controls - one is the amount of air and the
other is temperature. This works well when you need intermediate levels of
heat, as you still get lots of airflow to distribute the heat evenly, rather
than just a small puff of superhot air that you get with the standard heat
valves when they are partially closed.
I was flying on Saturday here in Winnipeg in -34C (-29F) temps and was quite
comfortable, even when the sun went behind clouds. My feet were a bit warm
compared to my upper body so I think I will increase the overall airflow of
the system a bit by opening up the heat system inlet.
IMHO, stuffing the heat muffs with scrubber pads or springs isn't all that
useful, but getting the right volume of air flowing through the system is
critical. You want to have some method of adjusting the amount of air
entering the system, either a ground adjustable flap or even just a piece of
aluminum duct tape. I am also using the muffin fan defrosters and they work
as advertised to keep the windshield clear on the ground. In the air, the
canopy is totally frost free.
As a side note, engine handling at -34C was interesting. I had no problem
starting since the aircraft came out of a heated hangar, but it took about
10 minutes of idling before the oil temperature started to register. As I
was taxiing across our packed-snow/turf runway, I noticed that the engine
wanted to die if I pushed in the throttle too fast so I waited for 100F oil
temp before takeoff. In the air at 2500 ASL, the engine was near peak EGT
even with the mixture all the way to full rich, and didn't take kindly to
any aggressive attempts at leaning.
I cruised at 75%, more power than I would normally use on a joyride, but I
needed the heat! Temperatures at cruise were 275F CHT and 165F for the oil.
Inbound to the field, I started pulling off the power about 10 miles back,
reducing by 100 RPM ever 30 seconds or so. I have my EIS set to monitor CHT
cooling rate, and it told me we never exceeded the 50F per minute maximum
recommended by Lycoming. Another great EIS feature.
These RVs are astounding! Not even the die-hards with their ski-equipped
rag-wing aircraft were out flying that day, and here I am with my stubby
winged RV-6, taking off from a packed snow runway with my little 5" wheels
and cruising around in comfort.
Curt
RV-6 C-GACR
102 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Shemp" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cold weather - cabin heat (long) |
Did you fabricate the plenum using a mold? I definitely want to move that
heat over to the drivers side.
How did you adjust the temp and flow? I guess the firewall door adjusts the
flow and the flap on the baffle t adjusts temp??
Thanks
Jeff Dowling
RV-6a/ 9 hours
Chicago/ Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cold weather - cabin heat (long)
>
> Excellent winterizing tips from Alex Peterson.
>
> I'll second everything that Alex suggests and will suggest a couple more:
>
> 1) Seal any gap between the wing attach/carrythough bulkhead and the
forward
> seat skins.
> 2) Seal any other holes where you can feel a cold draft coming in,
anywhere
> in the cockpit, such as the seat belt mounts where they penetrate the
floor
> skins.
> 3) Insulate the whole cockpit area with 1/8" black soundproofing foam,
with
> fabric over top. Bare aluminum just sucks the heat right out of you. This
> does add a few pounds (5-10) compared to the painted grey metal interior
> approach.
> 4) This is an option but it works for me: I ran my heat muffs in series
into
> a single Van's air mixing valve at the firewall, then into a fibreglass
> plenum (also known as a piccolo tube) to distribute the heat across the
> front of the cabin. I have two controls - one is the amount of air and the
> other is temperature. This works well when you need intermediate levels of
> heat, as you still get lots of airflow to distribute the heat evenly,
rather
> than just a small puff of superhot air that you get with the standard heat
> valves when they are partially closed.
>
> I was flying on Saturday here in Winnipeg in -34C (-29F) temps and was
quite
> comfortable, even when the sun went behind clouds. My feet were a bit warm
> compared to my upper body so I think I will increase the overall airflow
of
> the system a bit by opening up the heat system inlet.
>
> IMHO, stuffing the heat muffs with scrubber pads or springs isn't all that
> useful, but getting the right volume of air flowing through the system is
> critical. You want to have some method of adjusting the amount of air
> entering the system, either a ground adjustable flap or even just a piece
of
> aluminum duct tape. I am also using the muffin fan defrosters and they
work
> as advertised to keep the windshield clear on the ground. In the air, the
> canopy is totally frost free.
>
> As a side note, engine handling at -34C was interesting. I had no problem
> starting since the aircraft came out of a heated hangar, but it took about
> 10 minutes of idling before the oil temperature started to register. As I
> was taxiing across our packed-snow/turf runway, I noticed that the engine
> wanted to die if I pushed in the throttle too fast so I waited for 100F
oil
> temp before takeoff. In the air at 2500 ASL, the engine was near peak EGT
> even with the mixture all the way to full rich, and didn't take kindly to
> any aggressive attempts at leaning.
>
> I cruised at 75%, more power than I would normally use on a joyride, but I
> needed the heat! Temperatures at cruise were 275F CHT and 165F for the
oil.
> Inbound to the field, I started pulling off the power about 10 miles back,
> reducing by 100 RPM ever 30 seconds or so. I have my EIS set to monitor
CHT
> cooling rate, and it told me we never exceeded the 50F per minute maximum
> recommended by Lycoming. Another great EIS feature.
>
> These RVs are astounding! Not even the die-hards with their ski-equipped
> rag-wing aircraft were out flying that day, and here I am with my stubby
> winged RV-6, taking off from a packed snow runway with my little 5" wheels
> and cruising around in comfort.
>
> Curt
> RV-6 C-GACR
> 102 hours
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Cold weather - cabin heat (long) |
>
> Did you fabricate the plenum using a mold? I definitely want to move that
> heat over to the drivers side.
I used the "lost foam" process. Carve SM styrofoam to the shape you want,
then glass it over, let it harden and pour laquer thinner into the core to
dissolve the foam. Voila! This makes it really easy to make a complex shape
that flows through nooks and crannies, around rudder pedal structures, etc.
> How did you adjust the temp and flow? I guess the firewall door adjusts
the
> flow and the flap on the baffle t adjusts temp??
The flap on the baffle (which actually started out as just a piece of duct
tape), is ground settable only. It adjusts the total volume of air entering
the heating system. I am adjusting this to get the right mixture of heat vs
flow with the two cabin heating controls (described below) set to maximum.
This is a trial and error thing, and once I get it set just right I plan to
leave it that way permanently.
From the baffle, the inlet air goes through a 2" scat tube to a 2" Y
connector. One side of the Y feeds through the heat muffs to the "hot" side
of the Van's mixing valve, and the other side of the Y feeds the cold side
of the mixing valve. The valve has a hot/cold mixing flap which is
controlled from the cockpit. There is also an outlet valve, again controlled
from the cockpit, which controls the volume of air entering the cabin. In
operation the system works just like your basic car heater - one control for
the amount of air (like the fan switch in a car), and another control for
temperature.
I like the Van's air valve but there are a couple of issues to be aware of.
If you turn the temp valve to HOT and the turn the outlet valve to OFF, you
don't have any air flowing through the muffs so the exhaust pipe will likely
overheat. I have a placard warning against this. Turn temp to cold before
shutting off air. And someone else mentioned the possiblity of backflow
through the valve causing engine fumes to get into the cabin. Since I'm
taking my air from the high pressure side of the cooling system, I don't
think this is likely, and in any case my CO meter reads 0 PPM at all heat
settings so far.
Curt
RV-6 C-GACR
Curt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Cold weather - cabin heat (muffin fan pics) |
Guys....the "slimmer" CPU fans are a no-go. Unless you're happy with 2
teeny holes the size of golf balls, on the windshield, forget the CPU fans
and buy the thicker case fans. MUCH better. Been there, done that. Had
the CPU fans first, now have the thicker and larger case fans, about 4"
square. They do a pretty good job of clearing up the windshield on those
single digit days, of which many I've been flying lately. Yeah, they are
bigger, but if you plane on ever flying with the temperature below 20oF,
they are nice to have, and a must when in the single digits. Last week 2oF
on the ground, -14oF at 5K, and -26oF@8K (didn't spend much time there)!
Here's my winterization kit.....
I use the "Alex Peterson" method of slider and cockpit sealing, but I only
have one measly heat muff.
Next, two pairs of socks and insulated boots with nice wool gloves.
Then, oil cooler plate, and the expensive duct tape over the cowl inlets. I
block off about 1 1/2 tap widths of the intake on both sides. This allow me
to keep the CHT's above 300 and the oil above 180. Also, lean to peak EGT
to try and keep it close to 1300, helps at least keep some warm air moving.
Last but not least, and I really found this out yesterday...No Loops or
Cuban Eights.....the instant you pull the throttle back the heat dissapears
and it gets cold REAL fast! So, I guess the moral of the story is I'm stuck
with only rolls with the temperature is below 15.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jeff Point
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cold weather - cabin heat (muffin fan pics)
The computer case ones are kind of thick and bulky. CPU cooling fans
are much slimmer (<1/2 inch). The Shack has a nice one for about $12,
p/n 273-240. I put two of 'em in the glareshield.
Jeff Point
RV-6 finishing up
Milwaukee WI
Boss wrote:
>
>Get em free out of an old computer case.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Off Topic - Thunderbirds crash report and video |
Hi,
Sorry about the off-topic post, but I know there are some
ex- and current fighter jocks on the list, and I wonder if
you feel, as I do, that this seems to be an unfair verdict
on this accident.
I just can't imagine a procedure for airshow flying that
uses MSL instead of AGL. Who cares, when you are performing
the kind of maneuvers that these folks do, how high over
the ocean you might be? Help me understand this.
I've studied human factors and error analysis for quite
some time, and this smells like an obvious disaster waiting
to happen. Performing all the maneuvers at different MSL
altitudes depending on the airshow site? Sounds strange.
I've been a Thunderbirds fan since before I could walk,
and being an USAF brat had seen one of their shows every
year growing up. I just hate to see this kid get sent off
to the Pentagon for getting bitten by some bad training
or bad procedures. I hope the team learns from this crash.
Am I all wet?
Mickey
>THUNDERBIRDS CRASH REPORT AND VIDEO
>Pilot error caused a U.S. Air Force Thunderbirds F-16 to crash at an air
>show on Sept. 14 at Mountain Home Air Force Base, Idaho, the Air Force
>said on Wednesday. (See AVweb's NewsWire for in-cockpit video of the
>crash.) The pilot incorrectly climbed to 1,670 feet AGL instead of 2,500
>feet before initiating the pull-down to the Split-S maneuver, according
>to the Air Force news release. The pilot, Chris Stricklin, 31,
>apparently flew by mistake to the MSL altitude used when practicing the
>maneuver at his home base, Nellis AFB in Nevada, which is 1,000 feet
>lower than the Idaho field elevation. The pilot ejected just
>eight-tenths of a second before impact, after reportedly making an
>effort to steer the aircraft away from the crowd of about 85,000 ... and
>now works at the Pentagon, in Washington, D.C.
>http://www.avweb.com/eletter/archives/avflash/190-full.html#186582
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Cold weather - cabin heat |
I figure I am now
good to go comfortably in normal clothes and tennis
shoes to about 5 below(F). Any colder than that will
necessitate me wearing winter clothes while flying
Given any thought to your survival needs if you are downed a good ways from civilization?
In the mountainous part of Virginia where I fly, it is constantly
on my mind. Although I carry a survival kit containing several metalized mylar
"space blankets" and every fire-starting device known to man, along with signals,
etc, I do not take for granted that every crash scenario leaves me able
to get out of the wreckage or to reach the survival kit as I hastily exit a plane
that might expeerience a post-crash fire. For this reason, I never try to
get by with minimum comfortable clothing levels for the flight, and I carry redundant
supplies in the pockets of my flight suit, which is always on my person
in the winter.
Survival in skimpy clothing on the ground at zero degrees is not assured. Why
set yourself up for the misery of attempting it?
This raises another question I'd personally like to see bandied about in its own
thread: what's in YOUR survival kit?
-Bill Boyd
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cold weather - cabin heat (muffin fan pics) |
Stein, just curious what kind of CPU fans you used? The ones I got at
the Shack move a pretty good volume of air for their size, but I did
have to look around for a while for them. Some CPU fans are pretty
wimpy. I'm not flying yet, so we will see how they work.
Jeff Point
Stein Bruch wrote:
>
>Guys....the "slimmer" CPU fans are a no-go.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
http://www.seatheater.com/
try these folks. they speak airplane.
Vince
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randy Richter <richterrbb(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cold weather - cabin heat (muffin fan pics) |
List, I've been following this thread, too, because I hadn't even
thought of the need for this until it was mentioned here. So I just did
a google search for "cooling fans" and came up with several promising sites:
AC Blowers, AC Axial Fans, DC blowers, DC Axial Fans from Comair Rotron
- <http://www.comairrotron.com/datasheets.html>
(http://www.comairrotron.com/datasheets.html)
PAPST Fans
<http://www.papst.de/english/products_luefter_dcaxial01.html>
(http://www.papst.de/english/products_luefter_dcaxial01.html)
Fans & Blowers: Muffin / Flat Types
<http://www.surplussales.com/Fans-Blowers/FansBlow-3.html>
(http://www.surplussales.com/Fans-Blowers/FansBlow-3.html)
1COOLPC / High Quality Computer Cooling Fans <http://www.1coolpc.com/>
(http://www.1coolpc.com/)
Antec Cooling Fans
<http://www.antec-inc.com/us/pro_details_cooling.php?ProdID=75003>
(http://www.antec-inc.com/us/pro_details_cooling.php?ProdID=75003)
I'm sure there are many more out there.
Randy
Jeff Point wrote:
>
>Stein, just curious what kind of CPU fans you used? The ones I got at
>the Shack move a pretty good volume of air for their size, but I did
>have to look around for a while for them. Some CPU fans are pretty
>wimpy. I'm not flying yet, so we will see how they work.
>
>Jeff Point
>
>Stein Bruch wrote:
>
>
>
>>
>>Guys....the "slimmer" CPU fans are a no-go.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
--
Randy Richter
richterrbb(at)earthlink.net
-7QB Kit in hibernation
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Blanton Fortson <blanton(at)alaska.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Off Topic - Thunderbirds crash report and video |
>> Help me understand this.
OK
>> Performing all the maneuvers at different MSL altitudes depending on
the airshow site?
That's how all of aviation works, all over the world, Mickey. It's the
only way it *can* work.
>>and this smells like an obvious disaster waiting to happen.
Picture this alternative:
ATC: "RV 1051B, (departing San Francisco) cleared direct to Denver at
3,000 AGL"
How would that work?
Excepting radar altimeters, all altimeters reference MSL, not AGL.
B.
On Jan 26, 2004, at 2:03 AM, Mickey Coggins wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> Sorry about the off-topic post, but I know there are some
> ex- and current fighter jocks on the list, and I wonder if
> you feel, as I do, that this seems to be an unfair verdict
> on this accident.
>
> I just can't imagine a procedure for airshow flying that
> uses MSL instead of AGL. Who cares, when you are performing
> the kind of maneuvers that these folks do, how high over
> the ocean you might be? Help me understand this.
>
> I've studied human factors and error analysis for quite
> some time, and this smells like an obvious disaster waiting
> to happen. Performing all the maneuvers at different MSL
> altitudes depending on the airshow site? Sounds strange.
>
> I've been a Thunderbirds fan since before I could walk,
> and being an USAF brat had seen one of their shows every
> year growing up. I just hate to see this kid get sent off
> to the Pentagon for getting bitten by some bad training
> or bad procedures. I hope the team learns from this crash.
>
> Am I all wet?
>
> Mickey
>
>
>> THUNDERBIRDS CRASH REPORT AND VIDEO
>> Pilot error caused a U.S. Air Force Thunderbirds F-16 to crash at an
>> air
>> show on Sept. 14 at Mountain Home Air Force Base, Idaho, the Air Force
>> said on Wednesday. (See AVweb's NewsWire for in-cockpit video of the
>> crash.) The pilot incorrectly climbed to 1,670 feet AGL instead of
>> 2,500
>> feet before initiating the pull-down to the Split-S maneuver,
>> according
>> to the Air Force news release. The pilot, Chris Stricklin, 31,
>> apparently flew by mistake to the MSL altitude used when practicing
>> the
>> maneuver at his home base, Nellis AFB in Nevada, which is 1,000 feet
>> lower than the Idaho field elevation. The pilot ejected just
>> eight-tenths of a second before impact, after reportedly making an
>> effort to steer the aircraft away from the crowd of about 85,000 ...
>> and
>> now works at the Pentagon, in Washington, D.C.
>> http://www.avweb.com/eletter/archives/avflash/190-full.html#186582
>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Off Topic - Thunderbirds crash report and video |
>
> >> Help me understand this.
>
>OK
>
> >> Performing all the maneuvers at different MSL altitudes depending on
>the airshow site?
>
>That's how all of aviation works, all over the world, Mickey. It's the
>only way it *can* work.
Negatory. Competition or show aerobatics are performed in a box, over a
known MSL elevation. You zero your altimeter to either the desired "knock
it off" hard deck AGL elevation, or ground level. This provides immediate,
no-brainwork-required, information of exactly how much room you have between
your tender butt and terra firma.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Learn how to choose, serve, and enjoy wine at Wine @ MSN.
http://wine.msn.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Off Topic - Thunderbirds crash report and video |
Blanton Fortson wrote:
> That's how all of aviation works, all over the world, Mickey. It's the
> only way it *can* work.
>
> Excepting radar altimeters, all altimeters reference MSL, not AGL.
Bzzt. Sorry, but that's not always true.
At least when towing gliders, it is S.O.P. (Standard Operating
Procedure) to tow to a fixed altitude AGL. The norm is to set the
towplane altimeter to 0' at airfield elevation, so 2000' of tow is 2000'
on the dial. Since you're always operating within the vincinity of the
airport anyway, you rarely need to call out your altitude ASL.
I would be very surprised if most airshow performers (at least in light
aircraft) didn't do the exact same thing. This way, your loop before
the low-level-inverted-ribbon-cutting pass is always topped at 1500' (or
whatever) on the dial.
Any airshow performers on the list care to comment?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Off Topic - Thunderbirds crash report and video |
Unless I'm wrong, in the U.S. MSL is used only above 18000 ASL, as it is in
Canada. (In Canada we also use MSL in the arctic at all altitudes.) So the
report probably should say ASL, not MSL.
I believe that some airshow performers set their altimeters to zero on the
ground before a performance, so that their altitude references are always the
same from show to show. However, I don't think teams like the Thunderbirds do
that because, for one thing, they often perform at a different airfield than
they take off from, and often the show box isn't at an airfield at all. If my
memory of riding with the Snowbirds is correct, they use standard altimeter
settings (i.e. ASL, not MSL) and brief altitudes for each performance.
---
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Walker" <ron(at)walker.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Off Topic - Thunderbirds crash report and video |
I think maybe Mickey was referring to the practice of "zero-ing" the
altimiter while on the ground prior to wheels up. That way it shows AGL.
This is something that I've done with a lot of the local flyin events like
flower bombing/spot landing and such.
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: "Blanton Fortson" <blanton(at)alaska.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Off Topic - Thunderbirds crash report and video
>
> >> Help me understand this.
>
> OK
>
> >> Performing all the maneuvers at different MSL altitudes depending on
> the airshow site?
>
> That's how all of aviation works, all over the world, Mickey. It's the
> only way it *can* work.
>
> >>and this smells like an obvious disaster waiting to happen.
>
> Picture this alternative:
>
> ATC: "RV 1051B, (departing San Francisco) cleared direct to Denver at
> 3,000 AGL"
>
> How would that work?
>
> Excepting radar altimeters, all altimeters reference MSL, not AGL.
>
> B.
>
>
> On Jan 26, 2004, at 2:03 AM, Mickey Coggins wrote:
>
> >
> > Hi,
> >
> > Sorry about the off-topic post, but I know there are some
> > ex- and current fighter jocks on the list, and I wonder if
> > you feel, as I do, that this seems to be an unfair verdict
> > on this accident.
> >
> > I just can't imagine a procedure for airshow flying that
> > uses MSL instead of AGL. Who cares, when you are performing
> > the kind of maneuvers that these folks do, how high over
> > the ocean you might be? Help me understand this.
> >
> > I've studied human factors and error analysis for quite
> > some time, and this smells like an obvious disaster waiting
> > to happen. Performing all the maneuvers at different MSL
> > altitudes depending on the airshow site? Sounds strange.
> >
> > I've been a Thunderbirds fan since before I could walk,
> > and being an USAF brat had seen one of their shows every
> > year growing up. I just hate to see this kid get sent off
> > to the Pentagon for getting bitten by some bad training
> > or bad procedures. I hope the team learns from this crash.
> >
> > Am I all wet?
> >
> > Mickey
> >
> >
> >> THUNDERBIRDS CRASH REPORT AND VIDEO
> >> Pilot error caused a U.S. Air Force Thunderbirds F-16 to crash at an
> >> air
> >> show on Sept. 14 at Mountain Home Air Force Base, Idaho, the Air Force
> >> said on Wednesday. (See AVweb's NewsWire for in-cockpit video of the
> >> crash.) The pilot incorrectly climbed to 1,670 feet AGL instead of
> >> 2,500
> >> feet before initiating the pull-down to the Split-S maneuver,
> >> according
> >> to the Air Force news release. The pilot, Chris Stricklin, 31,
> >> apparently flew by mistake to the MSL altitude used when practicing
> >> the
> >> maneuver at his home base, Nellis AFB in Nevada, which is 1,000 feet
> >> lower than the Idaho field elevation. The pilot ejected just
> >> eight-tenths of a second before impact, after reportedly making an
> >> effort to steer the aircraft away from the crowd of about 85,000 ...
> >> and
> >> now works at the Pentagon, in Washington, D.C.
> >> http://www.avweb.com/eletter/archives/avflash/190-full.html#186582
> >
> > --
> > Mickey Coggins
> > http://www.rv8.ch/
> >
> >
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Off Topic - Thunderbirds crash report and video |
> How would that work?
>
> Excepting radar altimeters, all altimeters reference MSL, not AGL.
>
> B.
Not exactly correct, American Airlines used to set one of the 3 altimeters
in the cockpit to read zero on landing, It was called QFE or QNE or QNH, I
can't remember which.
It was a bad idea, and they dropped it.
Before anyone asks the obvious "Qxx" question, check this out:
http://www.analogzone.com/acqe0729.pdf
My understanding of this accident is that the T-birds policy is to set
altimeters to the nearest 1000 feet. This is a pretty standard airshow
practice. If you tried to Zero them, most altimeters could not be zeroed
above a few thousand MSL depending on the barometric pressure. It is
assumed that timing, and Situational Awareness (SA) should take care of "how
many thousand feet" you are above the ground. There is a radar altimeter
in the HUD that displays AGL, but I don't know if it works when the airplane
is inverted.
In defense of the Air Force procedure, think about it, a fighter pilot dog
fighting in the mountains can not change the altimeter to reflect AGL.
Being a fighter pilot requires "SA," The T-birds are there to demonstrate
what fighter pilots can do. SA is a big part of that. This poor guy lost
SA for a split second, it cost him his career and nearly his life.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Blanton Fortson <blanton(at)alaska.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Off Topic - Thunderbirds crash report and video |
That's very interesting, Rob. I didn't know that. Thanks for the
elucidation. That makes sense for glider (and airshow?) ops.
Further off the track: A handful of winters ago when Fairbanks was
sitting beneath a monumental high under -60 F temps most aviation was
suspended for a couple of days because most altimeters could not be set
to that high a barometric pressure. Density altitude was something like
14,000 ft. below sea level, if my memory serves me.
B.
On Jan 26, 2004, at 11:56 AM, Rob Prior wrote:
>
> Blanton Fortson wrote:
>> That's how all of aviation works, all over the world, Mickey. It's
>> the
>> only way it *can* work.
>>
>> Excepting radar altimeters, all altimeters reference MSL, not AGL.
>
> Bzzt. Sorry, but that's not always true.
>
> At least when towing gliders, it is S.O.P. (Standard Operating
> Procedure) to tow to a fixed altitude AGL. The norm is to set the
> towplane altimeter to 0' at airfield elevation, so 2000' of tow is
> 2000'
> on the dial. Since you're always operating within the vincinity of the
> airport anyway, you rarely need to call out your altitude ASL.
>
> I would be very surprised if most airshow performers (at least in light
> aircraft) didn't do the exact same thing. This way, your loop before
> the low-level-inverted-ribbon-cutting pass is always topped at 1500'
> (or
> whatever) on the dial.
>
> Any airshow performers on the list care to comment?
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | OOPS!!! www.seatheater.com |
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
"Rocket-List Digest (E-mail)"
OOPS!!!!
MY BAD, please read. I goofed earlier and suggested that you contact www.seatheater.com to get info on heated seats. They aren't equipped to handle the calls from the general public, only from distributors and authorized vendors. Please don't call them. They are engineers, and set up to handle volume sales, not curiosity calls.
Now, having admitted my boo-boo, you can get their products through various dealers
right now and I am working with them to become an authorized distributor
in the future. Stay tuned.
If you'd like more info today, please give me a call. I've learned a bunch already!
Vince Frazier
3965 Caborn Road
Mount Vernon, IN 47620
812-464-1839 work
812-985-7309 home
1946 Stinson, NC97535, FOR SALE
F-1H Rocket, N540VF, Crazy Horse
<http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/page1.html>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | r miller <robertpmiller(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | stupid fuel gauge question |
O.K. I have to drill to mount my tank sending unit and I need to know
which way is up. When the tank is full is the resistance low or high?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ogoodwin(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Off Topic - Thunderbirds crash report and video |
Unless they dropped it in the last couple of years, they (American) are still doing
it. It was one of the items briefed to jumpseaters so they'd know what was
going on.
>
> > How would that work?
> >
> > Excepting radar altimeters, all altimeters reference MSL, not AGL.
> >
> > B.
>
> Not exactly correct, American Airlines used to set one of the 3 altimeters
> in the cockpit to read zero on landing, It was called QFE or QNE or QNH, I
> can't remember which.
> It was a bad idea, and they dropped it.
>
> Before anyone asks the obvious "Qxx" question, check this out:
> http://www.analogzone.com/acqe0729.pdf
>
> My understanding of this accident is that the T-birds policy is to set
> altimeters to the nearest 1000 feet. This is a pretty standard airshow
> practice. If you tried to Zero them, most altimeters could not be zeroed
> above a few thousand MSL depending on the barometric pressure. It is
> assumed that timing, and Situational Awareness (SA) should take care of "how
> many thousand feet" you are above the ground. There is a radar altimeter
> in the HUD that displays AGL, but I don't know if it works when the airplane
> is inverted.
>
> In defense of the Air Force procedure, think about it, a fighter pilot dog
> fighting in the mountains can not change the altimeter to reflect AGL.
> Being a fighter pilot requires "SA," The T-birds are there to demonstrate
> what fighter pilots can do. SA is a big part of that. This poor guy lost
> SA for a split second, it cost him his career and nearly his life.
>
> Tailwinds,
> Doug Rozendaal
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Off Topic - Thunderbirds crash report and video |
| From: | "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" <F.vanderHulst(at)ucol.ac.nz> |
> >> Performing all the maneuvers at different MSL altitudes depending
on
> >> the airshow site?
> That's how all of aviation works, all over the world, Mickey. It's
the
> only way it *can* work.
Not exactly true...
If you set your altimeter to read 0ft when on the ramp, then from then
on all heights displayed on it will be AGL (so long as you are operating
above that airfield).
IIRC, the British used to do this (maybe they still do) and there is a
QN-something (QNV ???) code for it.
The Tower would report its QNV, and aircraft operating there would set
their altimeters accordingly to read altitudes in feet AGL.
Frank
Learn real skills for the real world - Apply online
at http://www.ucol.ac.nz or call 0800 GO UCOL
(0800 46 8265) or txt free 3388 for more information
and make a good move to UCOL Universal College of
Learning.
Enrol with a public institute and be certain of your
future
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randy Richter <richterrbb(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Off Topic - Thunderbirds crash report and video |
So, here's how the Q's break down (I think):
QFE reads "0" on the ground, is only good at the field that issues it
and is used in the UK a lot. I was taught a rather naughty mnemonic to
remember it: QFE is "f_ _ _ed"
QNE is 29.92 in Hg/1013.2 mb and is what you set when you enter Class A
airspace (FL180 and above in the US, whatever the locals use elsewhere
in the world - some places I've been it's as low as 2,500).
QNH is the good ol' local altimeter you get when you listen to
ATIS/AWOS/ASOS/etc. which allows you to read field elevation when you're
on the ground.
The most important thing to remember about this nomenclature is that
NO-ONE is going to test you on it.
By all means, if I'm wrong, correct me.
:-P I make absolutely no
claims to know how airshow pilots set their altimeters.
YM(should not)V with these settings!
Randy
PS: Doug, how did you come across this website? That's some pretty
esoteric info!
Doug Rozendaal wrote:
>
>
>
>>How would that work?
>>
>>Excepting radar altimeters, all altimeters reference MSL, not AGL.
>>
>>B.
>>
>>
>
>Not exactly correct, American Airlines used to set one of the 3 altimeters
>in the cockpit to read zero on landing, It was called QFE or QNE or QNH, I
>can't remember which.
>It was a bad idea, and they dropped it.
>
>Before anyone asks the obvious "Qxx" question, check this out:
>http://www.analogzone.com/acqe0729.pdf
>
>My understanding of this accident is that the T-birds policy is to set
>altimeters to the nearest 1000 feet. This is a pretty standard airshow
>practice. If you tried to Zero them, most altimeters could not be zeroed
>above a few thousand MSL depending on the barometric pressure. It is
>assumed that timing, and Situational Awareness (SA) should take care of "how
>many thousand feet" you are above the ground. There is a radar altimeter
>in the HUD that displays AGL, but I don't know if it works when the airplane
>is inverted.
>
>In defense of the Air Force procedure, think about it, a fighter pilot dog
>fighting in the mountains can not change the altimeter to reflect AGL.
>Being a fighter pilot requires "SA," The T-birds are there to demonstrate
>what fighter pilots can do. SA is a big part of that. This poor guy lost
>SA for a split second, it cost him his career and nearly his life.
>
>Tailwinds,
>Doug Rozendaal
>
>
--
Randy Richter
richterrbb(at)earthlink.net
-7QB Kit in hibernation
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "css nico" <nico(at)cybersuperstore.com> |
"RV-List Digest (E-mail)" ,
"Rocket-List Digest (E-mail)"
| Subject: | Re: Rocket-List: OOPS!!! www.seatheater.com |
Well, well. You all know the old adage that there is nothing new under the
sun. I thought the 'hot seat' that a Rocket provides would be sufficient.
I was wrong, huh?
Nico
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu>
Digest (E-mail)"
Subject: Rocket-List: OOPS!!! www.seatheater.com
> --> Rocket-List message posted by: "Frazier, Vincent A"
>
> OOPS!!!!
>
> MY BAD, please read. I goofed earlier and suggested that you contact
www.seatheater.com to get info on heated seats. They aren't equipped to
handle the calls from the general public, only from distributors and
authorized vendors. Please don't call them. They are engineers, and set up
to handle volume sales, not curiosity calls.
>
> Now, having admitted my boo-boo, you can get their products through
various dealers right now and I am working with them to become an authorized
distributor in the future. Stay tuned.
>
> If you'd like more info today, please give me a call. I've learned a
bunch already!
>
> Vince Frazier
> 3965 Caborn Road
> Mount Vernon, IN 47620
> 812-464-1839 work
> 812-985-7309 home
> 1946 Stinson, NC97535, FOR SALE
> F-1H Rocket, N540VF, Crazy Horse
> <http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/page1.html>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Builder's Section Login |
Re: web access to rocketclubhouse.com
Ordinarily I wouldn't bug you with a reply, but I'm really surprised you
refuse to let me browse your Rocket web site. I'm curious why you'd want to
withold information that could help other builders? That's not exactly a
good way to propagate knowledge to promote quality & safety.
It doesn't seem like I'm asking for much. I subscribe to the
rocket-list(at)matronics.com (among several other lists which I find
informative), and somebody posted a reference to your site in the context of
something relevant to my own building process. All I wanted to do was see
the photos he mentioned.
It's not like I'm just some Joe Schmoe who wants to spider your site. I'm a
legitimate RV builder (flier in a few months), future potential Rocket
builder, and webmaster myself. This doesn't seem like a way to welcome
prospective Rocket builders into the community!
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gibbons" <gibbons@cox-internet.com>
Subject: RE: Builder's Section Login
> Dan,
>
> Yep, I'm serious. You must be an F1 builder to access the builders only
> portion of my site.
>
> The site isn't affiliated with Team Rocket in any way. It's my personal
> site based on a computer at my office, so I don't feel too bad in making a
> portion of it available only to F1 builders.
>
> Best of luck with the RV7 - hope you enjoy it as much as the RV builders I
> know enjoy theirs.
>
> Chip Gibbons
>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: Builder's Section Login
> You're serious? I can't even browse what you've got on your site unless I
> build an F1?
>
> )_( Dan
>
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Chip Gibbons" <gibbons@cox-internet.com>
> > To: "Dan Checkoway"
> > Sent: Monday, January 26, 2004 9:29 AM
> > Subject: Re: Builder's Section Login
> >
> >
> > Dan,
> >
> > Let me know when you get your F1 and I'll set you up. The builders site
> is
> > limited to builders only (I don't even set up guys who've ordered but
not
> > received their kits).
> >
> > Your 7 looks great. You're going to love it.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Chip
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Dan Checkoway
> > To: gibbons@cox-internet.com
> > Sent: Monday, January 26, 2004 10:55 AM
> > Subject: Builder's Section Login
> >
> >
> > Chip,
> >
> > Would it be possible for me to have a login to your Builders-Only
> section
> > on
> > your rocketclubhouse.com web site? I'm not building a Rocket YET, but
> I'm
> > almost done with my RV-7 and would love access to your resources to
see
> > them
> > now and in the future.
> >
> > )_( Dan
> > RV-7 N714D
> > http://www.rvproject.com
> >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Trampas" <tstern(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | stupid fuel gauge question |
If you are using the 240 ohm float type of sensor, part number 395-5T then
when full the resistance is low.
Regards,
Trampas Stern
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of r miller
Subject: RV-List: stupid fuel gauge question
O.K. I have to drill to mount my tank sending unit and I need to know
which way is up. When the tank is full is the resistance low or high?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Off Topic - Thunderbirds crash report and video |
..and just in case you'll be tooling around in the Caribbean, this is what
you will be hearing from the local ATC/flight service when given your
altimeter settings.
QNE over water
and
QNH for your departure/destination airport.
We were told to speak in "flight levels" when enroute. You get to learn
your position reporting all over again.
"..RV N996RV, flight level 75, expect the boundary at 20.." P-)
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
13B in gestation mode
At 14:56 2004-01-26, you wrote:
>
>So, here's how the Q's break down (I think):
>
>QFE reads "0" on the ground, is only good at the field that issues it
>and is used in the UK a lot. I was taught a rather naughty mnemonic to
>remember it: QFE is "f_ _ _ed"
>
>QNE is 29.92 in Hg/1013.2 mb and is what you set when you enter Class A
>airspace (FL180 and above in the US, whatever the locals use elsewhere
>in the world - some places I've been it's as low as 2,500).
>
>QNH is the good ol' local altimeter you get when you listen to
>ATIS/AWOS/ASOS/etc. which allows you to read field elevation when you're
>on the ground.
>
>The most important thing to remember about this nomenclature is that
>NO-ONE is going to test you on it.
>
>By all means, if I'm wrong, correct me.
>:-P I make absolutely no
>claims to know how airshow pilots set their altimeters.
>
>YM(should not)V with these settings!
>
>Randy
>
>PS: Doug, how did you come across this website? That's some pretty
>esoteric info!
>
>
>Doug Rozendaal wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >
> >>How would that work?
> >>
> >>Excepting radar altimeters, all altimeters reference MSL, not AGL.
> >>
> >>B.
> >>
> >>
> >
> >Not exactly correct, American Airlines used to set one of the 3 altimeters
> >in the cockpit to read zero on landing, It was called QFE or QNE or QNH, I
> >can't remember which.
> >It was a bad idea, and they dropped it.
> >
> >Before anyone asks the obvious "Qxx" question, check this out:
> >http://www.analogzone.com/acqe0729.pdf
> >
> >My understanding of this accident is that the T-birds policy is to set
> >altimeters to the nearest 1000 feet. This is a pretty standard airshow
> >practice. If you tried to Zero them, most altimeters could not be zeroed
> >above a few thousand MSL depending on the barometric pressure. It is
> >assumed that timing, and Situational Awareness (SA) should take care of "how
> >many thousand feet" you are above the ground. There is a radar altimeter
> >in the HUD that displays AGL, but I don't know if it works when the airplane
> >is inverted.
> >
> >In defense of the Air Force procedure, think about it, a fighter pilot dog
> >fighting in the mountains can not change the altimeter to reflect AGL.
> >Being a fighter pilot requires "SA," The T-birds are there to demonstrate
> >what fighter pilots can do. SA is a big part of that. This poor guy lost
> >SA for a split second, it cost him his career and nearly his life.
> >
> >Tailwinds,
> >Doug Rozendaal
> >
> >
>--
>Randy Richter
>richterrbb(at)earthlink.net
>-7QB Kit in hibernation
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JANWR101(at)aol.com |
Len my name is john marshall I have one of the 8s with a 540. you can reach
me at317 862 2389
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)QCBC.ORG> |
| Subject: | Re: stupid fuel gauge question |
The wiper-resistance type of fuel indicator is set up so that when it fails,
it shows empty.
That happens when the wiper no longer makes contact with the resistance coil
or the coil breaks.
Cy Galley - Bellanca Champion Club
Newsletter Editor-in-Chief & EAA TC
www.bellanca-championclub.com
Actively supporting Aeroncas every day
Quarterly newsletters on time
Reasonable document reprints
----- Original Message -----
From: "Trampas" <tstern(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: stupid fuel gauge question
>
>
> If you are using the 240 ohm float type of sensor, part number 395-5T then
> when full the resistance is low.
>
> Regards,
> Trampas Stern
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of r miller
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: stupid fuel gauge question
>
>
> O.K. I have to drill to mount my tank sending unit and I need to know
> which way is up. When the tank is full is the resistance low or high?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 1/26/2004 8:43:07 PM Eastern Standard Time,
JANWR101(at)aol.com writes:
> Len my name is john marshall I have one of the 8s with a 540. you can reach
>
> me at317 862 2389
>
>
John:
Thanks ... right now I am really worried about insurance. Any advice?
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, NC N910LL
196 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larygagnon(at)aol.com |
I'm a Check Corp seat heater dealer, I have them in my RV6. Let me know the
dimensions of your seat and I can get you whatever you need. The single temp
units are $65.00 each and the dual temp units are $95.00 plus shipping.
Contact me off list.
Larry Gagnon
RV6 N6LG O-360/Sensenich
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Most of the nippondenso alternators cool with internal fans, one on the
front of the field and one on the rear. The airflow is from the center of
either end into the unit and out the side vents on either end.
Some honda engines turn the same way as Lycs, so the cooling is better with
these units. But I have tested both Vans 35 and 60 amp units on the test
bench and they will fry if held at their supposed rating. This gets worse
with the reversed internal fans. That is most probably because the
automotive units are rated at an intermittant duty whereas aviation units
must be rated at continuous duty.
Which is why I built up a 100 amp unit that has been tested to continuous
duty of 50 amps, without over heating, that uses a Honda 91mm field rotor
with the correct fans. This unit came from a Toyota Solara, and is slightly
larger than the Vans units.
The most common cause of rectifier failure is overheating, so you might want
to use a calibrated test device to get an accurate value on the current draw
from the alternator, particularly if you are using Vans amp gauge. The two
gauges and shunts I have from Vans are both off by 14 and 16 amps
respectively. This means it shows no charge or discharge until there is a 14
amp draw across the shunt. Both shunts read the same, but the gauges read
slightly different.
Also, 500 operational hours out of an alternator is a terrible service life,
the automotive units normally go three to four times that, which also leads
me to believe that the Vans units might be operating too hot.
It certainly wouldn't be too hard to toss a temp probe inside the unit
tucked into the armature and route it back to the cockpit for a test flight
with everything turned on for half an hour.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Reese" <waynereese(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | Off Topic - Thunderbirds crash report and video |
You are wrong. MSL is obtained by use of current altimeter setting that
would give you a reading above the mean (average, not nasty) sea level.
At 18000 ft and above pressure altitude is used by setting 29.92. Back
in the C-124 days we used to cross the Oceans of the world at "Flight
Level 060" not 6000 ft. In Europe then (don't know about now} an
altimeter setting was given that would show you zero ft at the landing
field elevation.
Does anyone know QNE, QHE or what ever I can't remember.
Wayne
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tedd McHenry
Subject: Re: RV-List: Off Topic - Thunderbirds crash report and video
Unless I'm wrong, in the U.S. MSL is used only above 18000 ASL, as it is
in
Canada. (In Canada we also use MSL in the arctic at all altitudes.) So
the
report probably should say ASL, not MSL.
I believe that some airshow performers set their altimeters to zero on
the
ground before a performance, so that their altitude references are
always the
same from show to show. However, I don't think teams like the
Thunderbirds do
that because, for one thing, they often perform at a different airfield
than
they take off from, and often the show box isn't at an airfield at all.
If my
memory of riding with the Snowbirds is correct, they use standard
altimeter
settings (i.e. ASL, not MSL) and brief altitudes for each performance.
---
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Muffin fan and firewall wire pass-through pics |
I just happened to have finished my attempt at a defroster system for the 7A
and have a photo of it on my project update site. It will defrost (I hope)
the left side.
http://users.aol.com/n67bt
My Grumman defroster is located on the left only so I figured I would do the
same for the RV, especially since the fan is so small. If I need more
pressure I will try stacking fans.
Is there a major down side to that approach?
There's also a photo of my homemade firewall wire pass-through on the site.
Bob Trumpfheller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Bell" <dbell(at)manisteenational.com> |
Fellow Builders,
I installed Heated Seats in my 8 and so far...in a cold hanger they work great...two
settings...HI and Low
I have been gone for awhile since these postings have occurred, but would be happy
to assist anyone interested. Becky Orndorf installed them for me under my
fabric and abouve the foam.
I purchased them from a company in the detroit area...I will need to get the paperwork
at the hanger and repost....I believe it is alfa sunroofs or something
like that.
Hope this helps...I will post a follow up this week
Doug bell, 8qb....really really close to being done
Manistee, MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jgburns" <jgburns(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | ComDat GPS/VHF antenna quality |
In theory, practice and theory should be the same. Interesting claim from the Comant website, http://www.comant.com/comdat/comdatfaqs.html :
"Various antenna frequencies can interfere with each other. For example, VHF can
interfere with GPS, rendering GPS useless. That's why separate VHF and GPS antennas
must be at least three feet apart when mounted on an aircraft. In the
case of the combined GPS/VHF COMDATT, Comant has patented an integrated third-order
notch filter, removing the harmful VHF harmonics that interfere with GPS
reception."
If you've installed this antenna and plugged it into VHF-COM and GPS, could you
comment on the signal quality?
Cheers,
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Kem Kromic Primer |
Hi -
I have been using Sherwin Williams Rust Preventive Primer (143-0230). Gives a
nice finish and seals out moisture. It was suggested by the Sherwin Williams
sales guy that I might want to try Kem Kromic primer (B50wz1). I called Sherwin
Williams product info line and they thought it would be safe for use on aluminum
surfaces and provide good corrosion experience. My question -- any one
have experience with this primer or have any caveats? Thanks
Jim McNamara
RV-8 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Sneed <n242ds(at)cox.net> |
The non skid on my RV-6 started coming loose so I decided to pull it
off and install some new non-skid. In doing so the non-skid ripped off
the paint that was under the non-skid. I was going to just get new
non-skid and stick it to the aluminum but I would like to get some
advise on the following:
1. Should I paint the aluminum before I put new non-skid on?
2. If so what is the best paint to use and do I need to prep the
aluminum?
3. What is the best type on non-skid to use and where do I get it?
I would like to apply the new non-skid and not go through this process
every 150 hours if there is a better way to apply the nonskid, or a
better non-skid.
Thank you very much for the help!
Jason
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Nav-aid auto pilot gps coupling |
I have an old Nav aid which is tied into my annunciator panel. It will capture
a NAV signal but not GPS. Any possible explanations?
Thanks
Jeff Dowling
RV-6A 9 hours
Chicago/Louisville
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Scotch Brite Wheel |
Try looking for a Norton brand. They are the same thing and I found mine at
a local tool supply company. Cheaper too.
Glenn in Arizona -9A Wings, Fuselage ordered.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Smith" <dave(at)rv10project.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Scotch Brite Wheel
>
> Jeff,
>
> It might depend on where the Ace is, tho. I can say with certainty that
> the one's near me in Spokane don't carry the wheels. They are
> terminally 'out' of the maroon pads as well...
>
> Jeff Point wrote:
>
> >
> >Forget Home Depot, they are a joke. Try your local ACE hardware
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | leather upholstery |
Does anyone have a good source for enough leather to cover 2 seats?
tia
Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
9 hours
Chicago/Louisville
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | EIS help cht/egt |
Now that I have some time on my eis, Im wondering if those of you who use this
for cht/egt can help with some questions.
I havent changed the factory defaults yet and keep getting temp problem warnings.
The manual says to find your normal highs and lows, then add/subtract 40.
Were still tinkering with the engine so I dont know yet if Im getting a true
high and low. The most common problem coming up is a temp difference fault.
Im getting a spread of 100 degrees on no.3 and no.4 egt at cruise settings while
the chts are only 20 apart. I plan on swapping probes before I adjust anything.
#31320,320
#41420,340
Thanks again
Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
9 hours
Chicago/Louisville
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nav-aid auto pilot gps coupling |
Jeff Dowling wrote:
>
>I have an old Nav aid which is tied into my annunciator panel. It will capture
a NAV signal but not GPS. Any possible explanations?
>
>Thanks
>Jeff Dowling
>RV-6A 9 hours
>Chicago/Louisville
>
I think the problem may be in the format of the signal. The GPS may be
putting out NMEA format which is different from the 'aviation' format.
Check out http://www.porcine.com/ for a coupler ...... that will convert
the 'boat' format to 'aviation'.
Linn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Hansen" <jerry-hansen(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Nav-aid auto pilot gps coupling |
Jeff, the Navaid is designed to capture the analog deviation signals that
come from a VOR receiver. Some high end GPS receivers (panel mount) provide
such a signal, but most "GPS" autopilots use the digital data that is output
on the NMEA 0180 or AVLINK data port of the receiver.
Porcine does make a "Smart Coupler" that can be used in conjunction with the
Navaid to convert the GPS data to an analog signal.
Another solution would be to upgrade your Navaid with an EZ Pilot autopilot
at http://www.trioavionics.com - it will work with your existing Navaid
servo (cost savings), and it provides a whole lot more capability.
Jerry (I am associated with Trio Avionics)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Dowling
Subject: RV-List: Nav-aid auto pilot gps coupling
I have an old Nav aid which is tied into my annunciator panel. It will
capture a NAV signal but not GPS. Any possible explanations?
Thanks
Jeff Dowling
RV-6A 9 hours
Chicago/Louisville
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
SNIP I'm a Check Corp seat heater dealer, I have them in my RV6. Let me know the
dimensions of your seat and I can get you whatever you need. The single temp
units are $65.00 each and the dual temp units are $95.00 plus shipping.
Contact me off list.
Larry Gagnon
RV6 N6LG O-360/Sensenich SNIP
I wouldn't recommend the single temp models.
The premium units have the definite advantage of NOT turning themselves on when
you flip the master on. You must push the button each time you want them turned
on as the digital control resets to OFF.
Now, whether you think it's a good idea to have a seat turned on when nobody's
butt is in it is up to you. Personally, I'd rather have someone in the seat absorbing
the heat as designed for.
The dual temp units are about $95 as Larry mentioned. The 3 temp premium model
sells for about $150 and is well worth it.
Vince Frazier
812-464-1839 work
812-985-7309 home
1946 Stinson, NC97535, FOR SALE
F-1H Rocket, N540VF, Crazy Horse
<http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/page1.html>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: leather upholstery |
In a message dated 1/27/2004 9:17:30 AM Eastern Standard Time,
shempdowling(at)earthlink.net writes:
> Does anyone have a good source for enough leather to cover 2 seats?
>
> tia
> Jeff Dowling
> RV-6A, N915JD
> 9 hours
> Chicago/Louisville
>
Jeff:
I am in the furniture manufacturing business. My company does a lot of
leather business. I am producing seats right now for friends but will soon launch
the business of aircraft seats.
I can help you with leather. We stock about 350 leathers but I am using only
one pattern for my RV seats ... very durable and has about 55 colors to
choose from.
Let me know if you are interested. I will send you some samples.
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, NC N910LL
196 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: non-skid help |
Jason,
If it were me, I would scotchbrite it real well, clean, mask, hit it with an
epoxy primer (PPG DPLF or Dupont Corlar, for example), then apply the
non-skid from Ray Allen, the trim servo people. Their non-skid has worked
great for me. I'll bet you'll get some other ideas.
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 QB (Building)
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jason Sneed" <n242ds(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV-List: non-skid help
>
> The non skid on my RV-6 started coming loose so I decided to pull it
> off and install some new non-skid. In doing so the non-skid ripped off
> the paint that was under the non-skid. I was going to just get new
> non-skid and stick it to the aluminum but I would like to get some
> advise on the following:
>
> 1. Should I paint the aluminum before I put new non-skid on?
>
> 2. If so what is the best paint to use and do I need to prep the
> aluminum?
>
> 3. What is the best type on non-skid to use and where do I get it?
>
> I would like to apply the new non-skid and not go through this process
> every 150 hours if there is a better way to apply the nonskid, or a
> better non-skid.
>
> Thank you very much for the help!
>
> Jason
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Smith <dave(at)rv10project.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Scotch Brite Wheel |
hehe, that's the brand they are always 'out' of! I've asked why, and
nobody ever seems to know, nor do they really remember selling that many.
Glenn Brasch wrote:
>
>Try looking for a Norton brand. They are the same thing and I found mine at
>a local tool supply company. Cheaper too.
>Glenn in Arizona -9A Wings, Fuselage ordered.
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Dave Smith" <dave(at)rv10project.net>
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Scotch Brite Wheel
>
>
>
>
>>
>>Jeff,
>>
>>It might depend on where the Ace is, tho. I can say with certainty that
>>the one's near me in Spokane don't carry the wheels. They are
>>terminally 'out' of the maroon pads as well...
>>
>>Jeff Point wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>Forget Home Depot, they are a joke. Try your local ACE hardware
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
>
--
Dave
http://www.rv10project.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larygagnon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: leather upholstery |
Try Autocraft in Ludlow Mass. 1-800-628-3376.
Larry Gagnon
RV6 N6LG
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Muffin fan and firewall wire pass-through pics |
If I am understanding you guys correctly, the defroster is only needed on
the ground. If this is correct, then why not simply keep a towel to wipe
the inside while on the ground. This would seem especially applicable to
tandem seat aircraft.
Vince Welch
>From: N67BT(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Muffin fan and firewall wire pass-through pics
>Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 22:17:02 EST
>
>
>I just happened to have finished my attempt at a defroster system for the
>7A
>and have a photo of it on my project update site. It will defrost (I hope)
>the left side.
>
>http://users.aol.com/n67bt
>
>My Grumman defroster is located on the left only so I figured I would do
>the
>same for the RV, especially since the fan is so small. If I need more
>pressure I will try stacking fans.
>
>Is there a major down side to that approach?
>
>There's also a photo of my homemade firewall wire pass-through on the site.
>
>Bob Trumpfheller
>
>
Rethink your business approach for the new year with the helpful tips here.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)QCBC.ORG> |
| Subject: | Re: Muffin fan and firewall wire pass-through pics |
Because wiping your plastic windows with anything will scratch it.
Especially if there is any dust or dirt of the towel or dust of dirt on the
plastic.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter soon to be Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Muffin fan and firewall wire pass-through pics
>
> If I am understanding you guys correctly, the defroster is only needed on
> the ground. If this is correct, then why not simply keep a towel to wipe
> the inside while on the ground. This would seem especially applicable to
> tandem seat aircraft.
>
> Vince Welch
>
>
> >From: N67BT(at)aol.com
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RV-List: Muffin fan and firewall wire pass-through pics
> >Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 22:17:02 EST
> >
> >
> >I just happened to have finished my attempt at a defroster system for the
> >7A
> >and have a photo of it on my project update site. It will defrost (I
hope)
> >the left side.
> >
> >http://users.aol.com/n67bt
> >
> >My Grumman defroster is located on the left only so I figured I would do
> >the
> >same for the RV, especially since the fan is so small. If I need more
> >pressure I will try stacking fans.
> >
> >Is there a major down side to that approach?
> >
> >There's also a photo of my homemade firewall wire pass-through on the
site.
> >
> >Bob Trumpfheller
> >
> >
>
> Rethink your business approach for the new year with the helpful tips
here.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "wayne larabee" <wlarabee(at)specent.com> |
anybody have any experience correcting excessive toe in or out on the main gear
rv6???
wlarabee(at)specent.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JSannizzar(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Control Vision Anywhere WX |
Has anyone used this product/service? Is it worthwhile and practical? Are
there any bugs or shortcomings?
See the website at: http://www.anywheremap.com/pages/awm_anywherewx.htm
My friend is interested in alternatives to a full blown stormscope in his PA
32 and I knew that with the knowledgeable people here, I could get some info
for him. Any input would be appreciated.
John Sannizzaro
N357JS (Reserved)
RV-7 Planning Stages
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Muffin fan and firewall wire pass-through pics |
Hi Vince,
The only downside to your suggestion that I can imagine is the increased
likelyhood of eventually marring and or hazing the Plexi.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Muffin fan and firewall wire pass-through pics
>
> If I am understanding you guys correctly, the defroster is only needed on
> the ground. If this is correct, then why not simply keep a towel to wipe
> the inside while on the ground. This would seem especially applicable to
> tandem seat aircraft.
>
> Vince Welch
>
>
> >From: N67BT(at)aol.com
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RV-List: Muffin fan and firewall wire pass-through pics
> >Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 22:17:02 EST
> >
> >
> >I just happened to have finished my attempt at a defroster system for the
> >7A
> >and have a photo of it on my project update site. It will defrost (I
hope)
> >the left side.
> >
> >http://users.aol.com/n67bt
> >
> >My Grumman defroster is located on the left only so I figured I would do
> >the
> >same for the RV, especially since the fan is so small. If I need more
> >pressure I will try stacking fans.
> >
> >Is there a major down side to that approach?
> >
> >There's also a photo of my homemade firewall wire pass-through on the
site.
> >
> >Bob Trumpfheller
> >
> >
>
> Rethink your business approach for the new year with the helpful tips
here.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov> |
| Subject: | C squeezer on Ebay |
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=26442&item=2455693743
Squeezer, two yokes, and a bunch of sets. Looks like a very good deal at
$189.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Muffin fan and firewall wire pass-through pics |
Bob
I like the looks of your 12 volt power supply socket. Could you tell me what
brand it is, and where you brought it at.
Thanks
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Muffin fan and firewall wire pass-through pics |
The connector for the fan is a .062" pin Molex. You can get them at Digikey,
Mouser, and possibly Radio Shack.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Rozema <hartist1(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Control Vision Anywhere WX |
I don't have WX (Arizona), but Anywhere Map and AI on a PDA has to be seen to be
believed. Support is great and TRFs and other restricted area are available
from their website almost hourly... plus all the approach plates for the Western
Hemisphere (oh yes... not recommended for actual IFR) accurate to a couple feet
or inches. I figure I saved about $20,000 for certified equipment for less than
$2,000. Oh yes the WX included with AWM/GPS and AI whole package software and
hardware is $2,245 plus the Sat Phone hardware. Sat Ph service is about $50/mon
and Wx service depends on update frequency and total minutes $25 to $100 plus.
See for yourself at http://www.anywheremap.com/pages/awm_anywherewx.htm
Hal Rozema
ThePlaneFolks.net
VSTOL701/3300
JSannizzar(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Has anyone used this product/service? Is it worthwhile and practical? Are
> there any bugs or shortcomings?
>
> See the website at: http://www.anywheremap.com/pages/awm_anywherewx.htm
>
> My friend is interested in alternatives to a full blown stormscope in his PA
> 32 and I knew that with the knowledgeable people here, I could get some info
> for him. Any input would be appreciated.
>
> John Sannizzaro
> N357JS (Reserved)
> RV-7 Planning Stages
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nav-aid auto pilot gps coupling |
My GPS is an UPSAT SL 50. I'll do some research on what type of signal it
tx's.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Hansen" <jerry-hansen(at)cox.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Nav-aid auto pilot gps coupling
>
> Jeff, the Navaid is designed to capture the analog deviation signals that
> come from a VOR receiver. Some high end GPS receivers (panel mount)
provide
> such a signal, but most "GPS" autopilots use the digital data that is
output
> on the NMEA 0180 or AVLINK data port of the receiver.
>
> Porcine does make a "Smart Coupler" that can be used in conjunction with
the
> Navaid to convert the GPS data to an analog signal.
>
> Another solution would be to upgrade your Navaid with an EZ Pilot
autopilot
> at http://www.trioavionics.com - it will work with your existing Navaid
> servo (cost savings), and it provides a whole lot more capability.
>
> Jerry (I am associated with Trio Avionics)
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Dowling
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Nav-aid auto pilot gps coupling
>
>
> I have an old Nav aid which is tied into my annunciator panel. It will
> capture a NAV signal but not GPS. Any possible explanations?
>
> Thanks
> Jeff Dowling
> RV-6A 9 hours
> Chicago/Louisville
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Muffin fan and firewall wire pass-through pics |
> The only downside to your suggestion that I can imagine is
> the increased likelyhood of eventually marring and or hazing
> the Plexi.
>
> > If I am understanding you guys correctly, the defroster is
> only needed
> > on the ground. If this is correct, then why not simply
> keep a towel
> > to wipe the inside while on the ground. This would seem especially
> > applicable to tandem seat aircraft.
Wiping, even if it doesn't scratch the plexi, simply doesn't work for
frost when it is cold. In fact, trying to wipe frost off usually makes
things worse, as it creates many more nucleation sites on the surface.
The result is usually poorer visibility than before. Either a fan of
some sort or keeping the canopy cracked open on the ground is necessary
when the temps are at or below say 10F. One has time to study these
things in MN winters.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 434 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: EIS help cht/egt |
> Now that I have some time on my eis, Im wondering if those of you who use
this for cht/egt can help with some questions.
>
> I havent changed the factory defaults yet and keep getting temp problem
warnings. The manual says to find >your normal highs and lows, then
add/subtract 40. Were still tinkering with the engine so I dont know yet if
>Im getting a true high and low. The most common problem coming up is a
temp difference fault. Im getting a >spread of 100 degrees on no.3 and no.4
egt at cruise settings while the chts are only 20 apart. I plan on
>swapping probes before I adjust anything.
Jeff, do you have fuel injection or a carburetor? For a carb, 100+ degrees
difference on EGT is quite normal. My spread is somewhere around 150 I
think. And a twenty degree difference on CHT is pretty good. I wish I could
get mine that close.
The EIS is a great unit, but it monitors so many things that it can be
overwhelming at first, and sometimes a pain in the butt until you get all
the alarm limits set the way you want them. Set them wherever necessary to
accomodate YOUR airplane and engine characteristics. Remember, you're only
legally required to have Oil Pressure and Oil Temperature gauges.
I set my limits high on things like EGT spread, specifically to avoid alarms
while I get used to the airplane. As I gain more experience with the engine
I figure I'll tighten up these settings.
Curt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Hansen" <jerry-hansen(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Nav-aid auto pilot gps coupling |
The installation manual for the SL 50 (available on the Garmin web site
http://www.garminat.com/down_doc.shtml shows that a +/- 150 mv deviation
signal is available from the unit. I'd guess that should work with the
Navaid.
Jerry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Dowling
Subject: Re: RV-List: Nav-aid auto pilot gps coupling
My GPS is an UPSAT SL 50. I'll do some research on what type of signal it
tx's.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Hansen" <jerry-hansen(at)cox.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Nav-aid auto pilot gps coupling
>
> Jeff, the Navaid is designed to capture the analog deviation signals that
> come from a VOR receiver. Some high end GPS receivers (panel mount)
provide
> such a signal, but most "GPS" autopilots use the digital data that is
output
> on the NMEA 0180 or AVLINK data port of the receiver.
>
> Porcine does make a "Smart Coupler" that can be used in conjunction with
the
> Navaid to convert the GPS data to an analog signal.
>
> Another solution would be to upgrade your Navaid with an EZ Pilot
autopilot
> at http://www.trioavionics.com - it will work with your existing Navaid
> servo (cost savings), and it provides a whole lot more capability.
>
> Jerry (I am associated with Trio Avionics)
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Dowling
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Nav-aid auto pilot gps coupling
>
>
> I have an old Nav aid which is tied into my annunciator panel. It will
> capture a NAV signal but not GPS. Any possible explanations?
>
> Thanks
> Jeff Dowling
> RV-6A 9 hours
> Chicago/Louisville
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Muffin fan and firewall wire pass-through pics |
> If I am understanding you guys correctly, the defroster is only needed on
> the ground. If this is correct, then why not simply keep a towel to wipe
> the inside while on the ground. This would seem especially applicable to
> tandem seat aircraft.
Up where we have winter the defroster is used to prevent & eliminate frost -
actual frozen hard stuff that forms on the canopy. It don't wipe off worth a
darn. You can scrape it off with a credit card but that is even harder on
the canopy than wiping.
I WISH my windshield only had some fogging that I could wipe off with a
towel. Maybe by April :-)
Curt
METAR CYWG 280300Z 32015KT 10SM DRSN BKN090 M26/M31 A3025
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randy Richter <richterrbb(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Muffin fan and firewall wire pass-through pics |
BRRRRRRR!
Curt Reimer wrote:
>Curt
>
>METAR CYWG 280300Z 32015KT 10SM DRSN BKN090 M26/M31 A3025
>
>
>
>
--
Randy Richter
richterrbb(at)earthlink.net
-7QB Kit in hibernation
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Rhea" <rv6larry(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Muffin fan and firewall wire pass-through pics |
I once owned a VW Beetle and a nifty little device I purchased at K Mart
worked great for removing frost from the windows .It was a small blow
dryer(looked like a mini hair dryer) that plugged into the cigarette
lighter. If someone still makes them this would be a great item to keep in
the cockpit for emergency situations in the cold climates.It actually got
hot enough to melt ice on the windshield rather quickly.
Larry Rhea N68LL(getting close to first flight out of RAL)
>From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Muffin fan and firewall wire pass-through pics
>Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 21:10:36 -0600
>
>
> > The only downside to your suggestion that I can imagine is
> > the increased likelyhood of eventually marring and or hazing
> > the Plexi.
> >
> > > If I am understanding you guys correctly, the defroster is
> > only needed
> > > on the ground. If this is correct, then why not simply
> > keep a towel
> > > to wipe the inside while on the ground. This would seem especially
> > > applicable to tandem seat aircraft.
>
>Wiping, even if it doesn't scratch the plexi, simply doesn't work for
>frost when it is cold. In fact, trying to wipe frost off usually makes
>things worse, as it creates many more nucleation sites on the surface.
>The result is usually poorer visibility than before. Either a fan of
>some sort or keeping the canopy cracked open on the ground is necessary
>when the temps are at or below say 10F. One has time to study these
>things in MN winters.
>
>Alex Peterson
>Maple Grove, MN
>RV6-A N66AP 434 hours
>www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
>
>
Check out the coupons and bargains on MSN Offers!
http://shopping.msn.com/softcontent/softcontent.aspx?scmId=1418
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Muffin fan and firewall wire pass-through pics |
Heck, we just getting warmed up here (or is that cooled off ...)
METAR CYWG 280600Z 31015KT 15SM SKC M30/M35 A3030 RMK SLP294=
Jim Oke
Wpg., MB
Do Not ARhive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Richter" <richterrbb(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Muffin fan and firewall wire pass-through pics
>
> BRRRRRRR!
>
> Curt Reimer wrote:
>
> >Curt
> >
> >METAR CYWG 280300Z 32015KT 10SM DRSN BKN090 M26/M31 A3025
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim and Bev Cone" <jimnbev(at)olypen.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Muffin fan and firewall wire pass-through pics |
I have two 4 inch fans for windshield defog in my RV-6A that take air from the
footwell. This past September, on a flight from Gillette, WY, in a driving rain,
my canopy fogged up inside before takeoff and as soon as I wiped it off, it
fogged up again. I could see well enough to take off IFR and went into the
soup at 300 feet AGL. It took almost two hours before the canopy was clear inside
even though I had the cabin heat on full hot and the fans running. It was
not a problem because I didn't see the ground until 600 feet on final approach
at Sioux Falls, SD. I am building a 7A (my third RV) and am putting a second
heat muff on the other exhaust and routing the air from that to two 3 inch
vents pointed at the windshield. I want some real heat to defog the windshield.
Jim Cone
3-peat offender
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Flap Jackscrew Rotation |
Not too long ago there was a thread about the rod-end bearing lock nut on
the flap screw jack loosening up and allowing the rod-end bearing to
unthread. This allowed the flaps to abruptly retract with a bang.
Disconcerting at the start of an approach, probably much more that that near
the ground. Looking at a friends RV-9A the other day shows that there is a
good solution for that. Vans sells a Flap Positioning System
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1075299887-210-429&browse=airframe&product=fps
part of which is a sliding rod held on the flap screwjack with collars. It
prevents rotation of the extendable portion of the jackscrew is the same way
that torque links prevent rotation of landing gear legs. Making or buying
this part it might be a worthwhile addition to the flap jackscrew.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
| Subject: | Control Vision Anywhere WX |
Works as advertised.
There is a bit of a learning curve if your friend has not been using a PDA.
The user interface on the AnyWhereMap and AnyWhereWx is *different* from
your Garmin handheld but once you get "into" it, you appreciate the
differences.
My longest trip using it was from KOSH to KCUB (Columbia, SC) right after
AirVenture when all the stormy weather was about each day. Was a GREAT
help.
If your friend does not like it, it can easily be sold to someone.
NOTE/DISCLAIMER etc: (!!!) It is ***NOT*** realtime. It is not "right now"
as in Stormscope or Radar. The NEXRAD data takes probably 5-10 minutes to be
GATHERED and put together. Then the data has to be packaged up (by
ControlVision) for downloading by the Satellite phone. The images you see
are therefore out of necessity 6-11 minutes (if not more) old. CV tries to
make sure that the data that THEY provide is only a short (single digit)
minutes old at most but it takes the "gubment" soem time to get all to them.
So it is not recommended be used "in the soup, dodging through major cells",
but instead to give you **additional** situational awareness.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> JSannizzar(at)aol.com
> Sent: Tuesday, January 27, 2004 7:11 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Control Vision Anywhere WX
>
>
> Has anyone used this product/service? Is it worthwhile and practical? Are
> there any bugs or shortcomings?
>
> See the website at: http://www.anywheremap.com/pages/awm_anywherewx.htm
>
> My friend is interested in alternatives to a full blown
> stormscope in his PA
> 32 and I knew that with the knowledgeable people here, I could
> get some info
> for him. Any input would be appreciated.
>
> John Sannizzaro
> N357JS (Reserved)
> RV-7 Planning Stages
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Wayne,
Vans had mine off by 3.8 degs on one side and 2.5 on the other.
I fixed this by wallowing the holes on the engine mount to rotate the leg,
then back filled the "slot" with a lead plug that is trapped by the bolt
washers. Although I'm sure the pinch of the bolt would be enough to keep
this in place.
If you put the AC in level position then use an accurate lasar level set
against the wheel hubs and project a line out say 100 inches (to make the
math easy) you can then use a little trig to calculate this very accurately
by triangulating off the aircraft centerline and then subtracting the
distance measured from centerline to lasar at 100 inches out from the
distance measured at centerline to lasar at 0 inches out. If you do the
math, a 1/10 of a degree = 3/16" at 107.5 inches between the two
measurements.
I set mine with full fuel but no baggage of pax as I figured that would be
the average taxi weight.
W
From: "wayne larabee" <wlarabee(at)specent.com>
Subject: RV-List: rv gear
anybody have any experience correcting excessive toe in or out on the main
gear
rv6???
wlarabee(at)specent.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com> |
Does anyone know where I can get an installation manual for a GNC-300XL? I
have checked Garmin's web site but they only list a user's manual for the
300XL. The web site has an installation manual for the 250XL. I need to
make up a harness and I don't know if the pin outs are the same. The user's
manual does not list pin outs.
Vince Welch
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ageless Wings" <harley(at)agelesswings.com> |
| Subject: | RE: AeroElectric-List: GNC-300XL |
Vince...
I went to Yahoo, typed in the model number and "installation manual" and
this was the first page that came up:
http://www.mcico.com/pdf/7019813%20MD41-144X.pdf
Pages 5 and 6 appear to be the pinout.
Harley
Long EZ N28EZ...
in the hanger, getting sanded and primed!
Harley Dixon
Website: www.AgelessWings.com <http://www.AgelessWings.com/>
Email: harley(at)agelesswings.com
Henrietta, NY
USA
|-----Original Message-----
|From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
|[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
|Vincent Welch
|Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2004 12:24 PM
|To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com
|Subject: AeroElectric-List: GNC-300XL
|
|
|--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Vincent Welch"
|
|
|Does anyone know where I can get an installation manual for a
|GNC-300XL? I
|have checked Garmin's web site but they only list a user's manual for the
|300XL. The web site has an installation manual for the 250XL. I need to
|make up a harness and I don't know if the pin outs are the same.
|The user's
|manual does not list pin outs.
|
|Vince Welch
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RE: AeroElectric-List: GNC-300XL |
Thanks for the info, BUT, that appears to be the installation manual for the
Mid-Continent ACU that is used with the GNC-300XL.
Vince
>From: "Ageless Wings" <harley(at)AgelessWings.com>
>Reply-To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
>To: ,
>Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: GNC-300XL
>Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 12:59:18 -0500
>
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ageless Wings"
>
>
>Vince...
>
>I went to Yahoo, typed in the model number and "installation manual" and
>this was the first page that came up:
>
>http://www.mcico.com/pdf/7019813%20MD41-144X.pdf
>
>Pages 5 and 6 appear to be the pinout.
>
>Harley
>
>Long EZ N28EZ...
>
>in the hanger, getting sanded and primed!
>
>Harley Dixon
>
>Website: www.AgelessWings.com <http://www.AgelessWings.com/>
>
>Email: harley(at)agelesswings.com
>
>Henrietta, NY
>
>USA
>
>
>|-----Original Message-----
>|From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
>|[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
>|Vincent Welch
>|Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2004 12:24 PM
>|To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com
>|Subject: AeroElectric-List: GNC-300XL
>|
>|
>|--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Vincent Welch"
>|
>|
>|Does anyone know where I can get an installation manual for a
>|GNC-300XL? I
>|have checked Garmin's web site but they only list a user's manual for the
>|300XL. The web site has an installation manual for the 250XL. I need to
>|make up a harness and I don't know if the pin outs are the same.
>|The user's
>|manual does not list pin outs.
>|
>|Vince Welch
>|
>|
>|
>|
>|
>|
>|
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Cimino" <jcimino(at)echoes.net> |
I think the pins are the same from the GNC-250XL and the GNC 300XL. I had a
problem with my 250 once and a avionics shop had a new 300XL, we just
screwed it in and it seemed to work fine.
Jim
James Cimino
RV-8 SN 80039
100+ Hours
570-842-4057
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: GNC-300XL
>
> Does anyone know where I can get an installation manual for a GNC-300XL?
I
> have checked Garmin's web site but they only list a user's manual for the
> 300XL. The web site has an installation manual for the 250XL. I need to
> make up a harness and I don't know if the pin outs are the same. The
user's
> manual does not list pin outs.
>
> Vince Welch
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Cold Weather & Performance (was muffin fans etc.) |
But as you can see by the dew point spread, it's a dry cold :-)
And the density altitude is around -6000 feet which would explain why my
engine was running lean of peak at FULL RICH last weekend. Climb performance
is great but assuming one limits cruise power to 75% for the sake of the
engine, the cruise is several knots slower than normal due to the thick air.
Weird.
>
> Heck, we just getting warmed up here (or is that cooled off ...)
>
> METAR CYWG 280600Z 31015KT 15SM SKC M30/M35 A3030 RMK SLP294
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | david edgemon <dedgemon(at)knology.net> |
Just out of curiousity. What kind of tire pressures are people using.
Particularly for the nose gear tire.
--
David Edgemon
Summit Research Corp.
"Under system requirements it said install Windows 95
or better, so I installed Linux"
Anonymous
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
Wheeler,
My alignment was out just about the same as yours was and I agonized
over how to fix it until I finally just left it alone and of course I
have a lot of tire wear. I like your method of changing it and I'll give
it a try at the next inspection.
I do have a comment about the method of measurement that Van's
recommends - that is, in a level attitude.
Unlike a trike, a tailwheel airplane is almost never in a level attitude
when the wheels are on the ground. And with the camber that our
airplanes have, there is a considerable change in toe-in from tail up to
tail down. So, it doesn't make much sense to me to adjust the gear for
straight ahead in a level attitude on a conventional gear airplane. Of
course you don't want it perfectly straight ahead with the tail down
either, since that will cause toe-out when the tail is up and extra tire
wear. I like to have a compromise of about half way between tail down
and level.
Dave, RV6, So Cal
EAA Technical Counselor & Flight Advisor
Wheeler North wrote:
>
>Wayne,
>
>Vans had mine off by 3.8 degs on one side and 2.5 on the other.
>
>I fixed this by wallowing the holes on the engine mount to rotate the leg,
>then back filled the "slot" with a lead plug that is trapped by the bolt
>washers. Although I'm sure the pinch of the bolt would be enough to keep
>this in place.
>
>If you put the AC in level position then use an accurate lasar level set
>against the wheel hubs and project a line out say 100 inches (to make the
>math easy) you can then use a little trig to calculate this very accurately
>by triangulating off the aircraft centerline and then subtracting the
>distance measured from centerline to lasar at 100 inches out from the
>distance measured at centerline to lasar at 0 inches out. If you do the
>math, a 1/10 of a degree = 3/16" at 107.5 inches between the two
>measurements.
>
>I set mine with full fuel but no baggage of pax as I figured that would be
>the average taxi weight.
>
>W
>
>
>From: "wayne larabee" <wlarabee(at)specent.com>
>Subject: RV-List: rv gear
>
>
>anybody have any experience correcting excessive toe in or out on the main
>gear
>rv6???
>
>wlarabee(at)specent.com
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tire Pressures? |
30-PSI all around works for me
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Aeroelectric Seminars / Terminals |
| From: | "" <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com> |
Two questions for the list...
1) For those that have been to the aeroelectric seminars...would you go again?
Do you feel you gained much more than having simply read the book? Anyone heading
to the seminar in KC on 2/7?
2) If anyone kept a list of the types (red splice, #6 red stud, blue faston, etc.)
and rough quantities of terminal connectors used, I would appreciate the help.
I know it certainly depends on the panel, but I'm just looking for some
direction in advance.
Thanks,
Scott
RV7A Wings
http://sky.prohosting.com/rv7a/
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Aeroelectric Seminars / Terminals |
Scott,
The seminar won't answer all your questions, but I definitely found it
worthwhile and enjoyable. I traveled from Seattle to Ft. Worth to attend
(and see relatives). If he held it close by, I would probably go again.
You probably won't come out of the seminar with all your questions about
wiring your plane answered because you probably won't think of all the
questions and the time goes fast, or at least it did for me. But Bob is an
excellent instructor and a true gentleman, and to say he knows his stuff is
like saying the Pope is religious. My only criticism was that there were so
many different interesting discussions that we didn't cover all the ground
that I had hoped.
Very worthwhile.
Terry
RV-8a still wiring, or maybe still getting started wiring
Seattle
Two questions for the list...
1) For those that have been to the aeroelectric seminars...would you go
again? Do you feel you gained much more than having simply read the book?
Anyone heading to the seminar in KC on 2/7?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ronschreck99(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Airflow Performance Fuel Injector Mounting |
Listers,
I have acquired an AP FM-200 Fuel Control new from a second party. It was
intended for rear mounting on an IO-360-B1E and has a 45 degree elbow. I bought
the engine and will replace the sump with a forward facing sump. Can anybody
tell me which (if any) adapter I will need to attach the injector for my RV-8
application? I'm sure I need something because the straight intake adapter
bolt pattern does not fit the fuel control directly but must bolt onto another
adapter. Question is, what is that other adapter, straight, 45 degree, 22
degree or what?
Also, there are no fuel lines with my fuel control. Anybody have a good
source for these? Thanks for the help.
Ron Schreck
RV-8
Gold Hill, NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net> |
How many degrees of toe in should there be on a -6?
Thanks,
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
RV6
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Bristol" <bj034(at)lafn.org>
Subject: Re: RV-List: toe in
>
> Wheeler,
>
> My alignment was out just about the same as yours was and I agonized
> over how to fix it until I finally just left it alone and of course I
> have a lot of tire wear. I like your method of changing it and I'll give
> it a try at the next inspection.
> I do have a comment about the method of measurement that Van's
> recommends - that is, in a level attitude.
> Unlike a trike, a tailwheel airplane is almost never in a level attitude
> when the wheels are on the ground. And with the camber that our
> airplanes have, there is a considerable change in toe-in from tail up to
> tail down. So, it doesn't make much sense to me to adjust the gear for
> straight ahead in a level attitude on a conventional gear airplane. Of
> course you don't want it perfectly straight ahead with the tail down
> either, since that will cause toe-out when the tail is up and extra tire
> wear. I like to have a compromise of about half way between tail down
> and level.
>
> Dave, RV6, So Cal
> EAA Technical Counselor & Flight Advisor
>
>
> Wheeler North wrote:
>
> >
> >Wayne,
> >
> >Vans had mine off by 3.8 degs on one side and 2.5 on the other.
> >
> >I fixed this by wallowing the holes on the engine mount to rotate the
leg,
> >then back filled the "slot" with a lead plug that is trapped by the bolt
> >washers. Although I'm sure the pinch of the bolt would be enough to keep
> >this in place.
> >
> >If you put the AC in level position then use an accurate lasar level set
> >against the wheel hubs and project a line out say 100 inches (to make the
> >math easy) you can then use a little trig to calculate this very
accurately
> >by triangulating off the aircraft centerline and then subtracting the
> >distance measured from centerline to lasar at 100 inches out from the
> >distance measured at centerline to lasar at 0 inches out. If you do the
> >math, a 1/10 of a degree = 3/16" at 107.5 inches between the two
> >measurements.
> >
> >I set mine with full fuel but no baggage of pax as I figured that would
be
> >the average taxi weight.
> >
> >W
> >
> >
> >From: "wayne larabee" <wlarabee(at)specent.com>
> >Subject: RV-List: rv gear
> >
> >
> >anybody have any experience correcting excessive toe in or out on the
main
> >gear
> >rv6???
> >
> >wlarabee(at)specent.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
Hi all-
I was contemplating seat heat, until the recent post about the car going up
in flames. Now I think I'll stay with a catalytic heat pad. They're made
by a company called 'Heat Wave' but don't have any other contact info at
this point. These devices are some sort of translucent vinyl pouch or bag
with sodium acetate in them. When you cycle the little metal disc
'clicker' within the fluid, it solidifies and puts out quite a bit of heat.
Later, you toss it in boiling water for a bit to return it to a liquid
state and it's ready to go again.
These widgets come in various sizes from hand warmer to full back pads.
I'm not sure, but I might even have gotten these at OSH a while back. One
could warm up the seats with these while preflighting the plane. As for
enroute, I have 2 heat muffs and always dress as if I were walking, not
flying...
gm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aeroelectric Seminars / Terminals |
In a message dated 1/28/2004 10:46:30 PM Eastern Standard Time,
tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com writes:
> 1) For those that have been to the aeroelectric seminars...would you go
> again? Do you feel you gained much more than having simply read the book?
> Anyone heading to the seminar in KC on 2/7?
>
>
Scott:
I am probably in the minority on this but I would not go again. I felt like
it was just a review of the book.
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, NC N910LL
196 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EIS help cht/egt |
Mine is fuel injected.
Your definitely right on overwhelming at first. Its signaling a problem way
too often.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: EIS help cht/egt
>
> > Now that I have some time on my eis, Im wondering if those of you who
use
> this for cht/egt can help with some questions.
> >
> > I havent changed the factory defaults yet and keep getting temp problem
> warnings. The manual says to find >your normal highs and lows, then
> add/subtract 40. Were still tinkering with the engine so I dont know yet
if
> >Im getting a true high and low. The most common problem coming up is a
> temp difference fault. Im getting a >spread of 100 degrees on no.3 and
no.4
> egt at cruise settings while the chts are only 20 apart. I plan on
> >swapping probes before I adjust anything.
>
>
> Jeff, do you have fuel injection or a carburetor? For a carb, 100+ degrees
> difference on EGT is quite normal. My spread is somewhere around 150 I
> think. And a twenty degree difference on CHT is pretty good. I wish I
could
> get mine that close.
>
> The EIS is a great unit, but it monitors so many things that it can be
> overwhelming at first, and sometimes a pain in the butt until you get all
> the alarm limits set the way you want them. Set them wherever necessary to
> accomodate YOUR airplane and engine characteristics. Remember, you're only
> legally required to have Oil Pressure and Oil Temperature gauges.
>
> I set my limits high on things like EGT spread, specifically to avoid
alarms
> while I get used to the airplane. As I gain more experience with the
engine
> I figure I'll tighten up these settings.
>
> Curt
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Perry" <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com> |
rv-list(at)matronics.com
I'm trying to get intouch with RV-4 builder Jim Ahman from Hackettstown NJ.
Anyone who knows how to get intouch with him please let me know.
Thanks,
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 N154PK Flies great!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Henney" <Mike.Henney(at)jedunn.com> |
On Sunday, January 25, 2004, N226MH, my RV-6A flew for the first time at
Front Range (FTG), Colorado. I am reporting awesome climb and
performance. It's Thursday and I'm still smiling. There were no
problems except for high CHT's due to my mistaken over-leaning. My
aircraft has an XP-360 assembled by Aero Sport Power, dual Light Speed
electronic ignitions, high compression pistons, and Hartzell CS prop. It
is equipped for day/night VFR. Final weight without gear leg fairings,
wheel pants, paint and upholstery is 1064 LBS. I spent more than 3000
hours in 6 years and 2 months building the standard kit. I owe thanks
for my good landing to Gary Zilik for allowing me to do transition
training in his RV-6A, Larry Wagner (an excellent CFI) and the ground
crew (Chuck Spaur and others) for re-directing me to the right runway as
the wind started to gust. I also thank Ted Lemen, Flight Advisor and
Kent Paser, Technical Counselor. It was reassuring to have my brother,
Larry Henney flying chase and watching over me in his Lancair 360,
N360LH. Finally, I must express gratitude to my family; Susanna,
Rachael, Samuel and Christine, for putting up with my self imposed exile
to the garage for so many years.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
You don't really want ANY toe-in. Toe-in tends to make a tailwheel
airplane unstable on the ground and toe-out is stable but causes tire
wear. Ideally the wheels should be straight ahead but when they have
camber ( not vertical ) the direction the wheels are pointed will change
with attitude (the airplanes attitude that is). It also changes with
weight and the worst case is right at touchdown - 3 point attitude and
zero weight on the wheels so they're tucked in as they will go and you
have maximum toe-in. I've flown airplanes where this is critical but
the RV 6 is so stable on the ground that it seems to be a non issue
except for tire wear.
So it's all a big compromise but should tend towards out not in.
Dave, RV6, So Cal
EAA Technical Counselor & Flight Advisor
Jerry Calvert wrote:
>
>How many degrees of toe in should there be on a -6?
>
>Thanks,
>Jerry Calvert
>Edmond Ok
>RV6
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Dave Bristol" <bj034(at)lafn.org>
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: toe in
>
>
>
>
>>
>>Wheeler,
>>
>>My alignment was out just about the same as yours was and I agonized
>>over how to fix it until I finally just left it alone and of course I
>>have a lot of tire wear. I like your method of changing it and I'll give
>>it a try at the next inspection.
>>I do have a comment about the method of measurement that Van's
>>recommends - that is, in a level attitude.
>>Unlike a trike, a tailwheel airplane is almost never in a level attitude
>>when the wheels are on the ground. And with the camber that our
>>airplanes have, there is a considerable change in toe-in from tail up to
>>tail down. So, it doesn't make much sense to me to adjust the gear for
>>straight ahead in a level attitude on a conventional gear airplane. Of
>>course you don't want it perfectly straight ahead with the tail down
>>either, since that will cause toe-out when the tail is up and extra tire
>>wear. I like to have a compromise of about half way between tail down
>>and level.
>>
>>Dave, RV6, So Cal
>>EAA Technical Counselor & Flight Advisor
>>
>>
>>Wheeler North wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>Wayne,
>>>
>>>Vans had mine off by 3.8 degs on one side and 2.5 on the other.
>>>
>>>I fixed this by wallowing the holes on the engine mount to rotate the
>>>
>>>
>leg,
>
>
>>>then back filled the "slot" with a lead plug that is trapped by the bolt
>>>washers. Although I'm sure the pinch of the bolt would be enough to keep
>>>this in place.
>>>
>>>If you put the AC in level position then use an accurate lasar level set
>>>against the wheel hubs and project a line out say 100 inches (to make the
>>>math easy) you can then use a little trig to calculate this very
>>>
>>>
>accurately
>
>
>>>by triangulating off the aircraft centerline and then subtracting the
>>>distance measured from centerline to lasar at 100 inches out from the
>>>distance measured at centerline to lasar at 0 inches out. If you do the
>>>math, a 1/10 of a degree = 3/16" at 107.5 inches between the two
>>>measurements.
>>>
>>>I set mine with full fuel but no baggage of pax as I figured that would
>>>
>>>
>be
>
>
>>>the average taxi weight.
>>>
>>>W
>>>
>>>
>>>From: "wayne larabee" <wlarabee(at)specent.com>
>>>Subject: RV-List: rv gear
>>>
>>>
>>>anybody have any experience correcting excessive toe in or out on the
>>>
>>>
>main
>
>
>>>gear
>>>rv6???
>>>
>>>wlarabee(at)specent.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Aeroelectric Seminars / Terminals |
Scott,
I'm the unofficial organizer of the Kansas City seminar and it looks
like we are going to have a great turnout. Last check with Bob was that
we have 15+ registered including a guy from Britain! I personally
haven't attended one of his seminars but they come highly recommended.
The EAA Chapter 91 hangar is very nice and the perfect setup. There are
several hotels just down the road as well as a lot of restaurants.
Look forward to meeting everyone in KC!
Matthew Brandes
RV-9A Wings
www.n523rv.com
> Message 19
> Subject: RV-List: Aeroelectric Seminars / Terminals
> From: "" <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com>
>
>
>
> Two questions for the list...
>
> 1) For those that have been to the aeroelectric
> seminars...would you go again? Do you feel you gained much
> more than having simply read the book? Anyone heading to the
> seminar in KC on 2/7?
>
> 2) If anyone kept a list of the types (red splice, #6 red
> stud, blue faston, etc.) and rough quantities of terminal
> connectors used, I would appreciate the help. I know it
> certainly depends on the panel, but I'm just looking for some
> direction in advance.
>
> Thanks,
> Scott
> RV7A Wings
> http://sky.prohosting.com/rv7a/
>
>
> Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
> The most personalized portal on the Web!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | FuselagePenetrationByFuelLevelWire |
Where have others been routing the fuel level sense wires through the fuselage?
If you go behind the spar to the lighting wire penetration point, how do you
pass the spar?
I put the fuel gauges in the painted left floor console today & set the assembly
in place in the airplane. I got this really pleased happy feeling looking at
it even though the garage was at 15 degrees this morning.
Dave Reel - RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | T-Bird Crash Pictures |
The pic in question fairly well matches the series of photos posted on this
list on 1-27-04 @ 11:53 PM.
Look at that series,great photos. The pucker factor in the tower must have
gotten HIGH !!!
Bob Olds
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lowrance 300 To Navaid |
Brian Denk wrote:
>
>
>>To those RV builder's that may have Navaid to Lowrance 300 Airmap working
>>Help!!!!
>>Need the cable out of Lowrance to Navaid wire pin out info please..
>>
>> Thanks
>> John McMahon (RV6 C/S 0360)
>
>
> I think Sam Buchanan interfaced an Airmap 100 to a Navaid. Might want to
> check his website or email him. I have a 300 and think it's great!
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
Here is a link to the Lowrance site with the pinouts:
http://www.lowrance.com/Support/pinout.asp
#3 pin (transmit serial) will go to the "data" wire on the Navaid.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)QCBC.ORG> |
| Subject: | Re: 6A first flight |
I would check other items as "over-leaning" does NOT cause high CHT! When
you go lean of peak, the engine puts out less power, less heat.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter soon to be Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Henney" <Mike.Henney(at)jedunn.com>
Subject: RV-List: 6A first flight
>
> On Sunday, January 25, 2004, N226MH, my RV-6A flew for the first time at
> Front Range (FTG), Colorado. I am reporting awesome climb and
> performance. It's Thursday and I'm still smiling. There were no
> problems except for high CHT's due to my mistaken over-leaning. My
> aircraft has an XP-360 assembled by Aero Sport Power, dual Light Speed
> electronic ignitions, high compression pistons, and Hartzell CS prop. It
> is equipped for day/night VFR. Final weight without gear leg fairings,
> wheel pants, paint and upholstery is 1064 LBS. I spent more than 3000
> hours in 6 years and 2 months building the standard kit. I owe thanks
> for my good landing to Gary Zilik for allowing me to do transition
> training in his RV-6A, Larry Wagner (an excellent CFI) and the ground
> crew (Chuck Spaur and others) for re-directing me to the right runway as
> the wind started to gust. I also thank Ted Lemen, Flight Advisor and
> Kent Paser, Technical Counselor. It was reassuring to have my brother,
> Larry Henney flying chase and watching over me in his Lancair 360,
> N360LH. Finally, I must express gratitude to my family; Susanna,
> Rachael, Samuel and Christine, for putting up with my self imposed exile
> to the garage for so many years.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)excelgeo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 6A first flight |
I think what Mike ment by over-leaning was that he leaned more than he
should have and did not get the cooling effect from running a rich mixture
Gary Zilik
Cy Galley wrote:
>
>I would check other items as "over-leaning" does NOT cause high CHT! When
>you go lean of peak, the engine puts out less power, less heat.
>
>Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
>Editor, EAA Safety Programs
>cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
>
>Always looking for articles for the Experimenter soon to be Sport Pilot
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Mike Henney" <Mike.Henney(at)jedunn.com>
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: 6A first flight
>
>
>
>
>>
>>On Sunday, January 25, 2004, N226MH, my RV-6A flew for the first time at
>>Front Range (FTG), Colorado. I am reporting awesome climb and
>>performance. It's Thursday and I'm still smiling. There were no
>>problems except for high CHT's due to my mistaken over-leaning. My
>>aircraft has an XP-360 assembled by Aero Sport Power, dual Light Speed
>>electronic ignitions, high compression pistons, and Hartzell CS prop. It
>>is equipped for day/night VFR. Final weight without gear leg fairings,
>>wheel pants, paint and upholstery is 1064 LBS. I spent more than 3000
>>hours in 6 years and 2 months building the standard kit. I owe thanks
>>for my good landing to Gary Zilik for allowing me to do transition
>>training in his RV-6A, Larry Wagner (an excellent CFI) and the ground
>>crew (Chuck Spaur and others) for re-directing me to the right runway as
>>the wind started to gust. I also thank Ted Lemen, Flight Advisor and
>>Kent Paser, Technical Counselor. It was reassuring to have my brother,
>>Larry Henney flying chase and watching over me in his Lancair 360,
>>N360LH. Finally, I must express gratitude to my family; Susanna,
>>Rachael, Samuel and Christine, for putting up with my self imposed exile
>>to the garage for so many years.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Garrett, Randy L (C4S)" <Randy.L.Garrett(at)GDC4S.Com> |
| Subject: | Electrical Connectors |
I certainly don't have an exact number but here's a rough idea ...
Red #6 and #8 ring terminals ... can't get enough of these. I'd say about
50 of each. I used #8 screws extensively, primarily because I happened to
have a lot of them. #6's would work just fine, otherwise. You will need to
worry about the size screw that your circuit breaker, switch, etc. has ...
which you can't control. The ground screws, of course, you can.
A modest assortment of other sizes is good, because you keep running across
them. There aren't many, but I find it very annoying to need one and not
have. I also like to have the actual correct size and not try to make
something work. So, I'd say around 20 ea of different size ring terminals
for different size wires (pink and blue). I used many more pink's than
blues. Only a very small number of yellow.
Faston connectors are probably only needed if you're using Bob
Nuckoll's-type fuse bar ... which I did and found to work great. I believe
those are .250 fastons. 25 pinks and 10 blues ought to be close, depending
on how many fuses you use.
Splices ... Doubt I even used 6 of those. Instead, I used ...
Knife Disconnects ... I just love those things. Frequently used them in
lieu of splices, if there was a possibility of needing to disconnect the
wire in future. Of course, every slice or knife connector is another
possibility for failure, so think about the tradeoffs.
I think the recommended practice is to use PIDG connectors. Basically,
these have a metal housing inside the plastic hub where the wire is
inserted. Car parts connectors are just plastic. Presumably the PIDG
connectors are stronger, but you have to order them or get them from a more
sophisticated electronics supplier.
Randy
RV-6A
235 hours
>Subject: RV-List: Aeroelectric Seminars / Terminals
>From: "" <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com>
>
>
>2) If anyone kept a list of the types (red splice, #6 red stud, blue
faston, >>etc.)
>anrough quantities of terminal connectors used, I would appreciate the
help.
>I know it certainly depends on the panel, but I'm just looking for some
>direction in advance.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Dave,
I wrestled with this in my mind for a long time and finally decided that if
both axels form a straight line with the weight on the wheels then it really
doesn't matter what their respective position is, assuming the gear dosen't
flex any or flexes symetrically.
It seemed to me that since they won't flex exactly symetrical then as the
tail goes higher they will flex more due to weight shift fwd, and as they
flex toe will shift from in to out while camber will shift from positive to
negative. So as the tail goes down, they will unflex and it should shift to
toein. This is due to the aft, outward rake on the gear. The extra weight
will add both a bending moment back/up and slightly outwards and a twisting
moment along the axis of the gear leg. If you hold your arm in the gear leg
position, with your fist cocked in the postion of the wheel then rotate your
arm along its axis you will see what I mean. The twisting action is what
effects toe the most.
So it seemed the worse time to have toe out would be WOW or lighter in a
wheel landing, whereas any extra toe in other phases would just be more
stability and less tire life. And the reason I picked level is that I hope
to never make a landing with the tail higher than that attitude.
Not sure if this logic is completely valid, ie any holes I missed, but I
seem to be able to land it and the tires provide good service life.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: [rv8list] T'Bird shot. |
flmike wrote:
> Clues:
> Resolution of jet is very different than rest of
> photo.
The jet is in the foreground of the picture, and the rest of the photo
is either in the background or is exhaust gas or smoke. So
unfortunately that's not conclusive.
> That is a really fast lens/high shutter speed/steady
> hand/superb focusing/perfect depth of field on a plane
> that is coming/crashing at YOU! No way is that a
> still from a video.
Definitely not a video still. But still possibly a photo. Looks to be
about a 1/500 or 1/1000 sec. photo, either of which would be
hand-holdable. Remember that the airplane isn't coming towards the
photographer in that photo as much as it is going *down*, towards the
ground.
Also, if you look at the photo and the onboard video, as the canopy
departs a black object flies off to the right of the frame... What is
presumably that same object can be seen just above and to the right of
the airplane in the photo.
> Crowd is mostly facing away from what I would call a
> rather attention getting event.
An F-16 doing a reverse cuban-8 on takeoff? Yawn. Like we haven't seen
that before. I'm sure it's quite common for people to be not watching.
Also, you're looking at the parking lot, really, not the crowd. The
video of the crash from outside the cockpit is taken from the audience,
which is definitely abeam the airplane. The cars in the background are
off to airshow left, ie. to the left of the crowd. The reason they're
visible behind the F-16 in the photo is that the F-16 turned slightly
away from the crowd when he realized a bailout was imminent.
> Flame from seat looks fake, too big/broad for the
> distance the seat is from the plane. Doesn't match
> the video of the actual ejection.
Actually it does... If you step through the video frame by frame, you
can see the flash from the seat almost engulf the top of the wing just
as the seat clears the fuselage, then the camera CCD saturates so you
lose the picture.
> Very strong shadows in actual photos with the sun
> around 45 degrees above the horizon (typical late
> afternoon T-bird show), but background vehicles etc.
> in this photo don't show the same shadow
> characteristics. Looks to be more near mid-day.
Again, they're well out of the plane of focus, so you might not see the
differences. But without knowing the orientation of the runways and
hence the parked cars, it'd be hard to surmise what the shadows on the
cars "should" look like.
> Never seen a T-bird pull out of a vertical maneuver
> over the crowd.
Nor is he in this case. The photo was taken from the airport's tower,
which you can see in the video taken from the audience. The tower is
almost (but not quite) in line with the airplane's crash path.
> My opinion, could be wrong.
And just my opinion too. I'll be there will be either a confirmation or
a retraction in the next AvWeb.
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Brooks" <kenbrooks(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Another option for Van's ABS air vents |
While looking at the Aircraft Simulators site for backlit panel switches,
etc., I noticed they also had some attractive eyeball vents (ABS plastic)
that are smaller than the large ones that Van's sells. Thought others might
be interested. Cost is $25 ea.
http://www.aircraftsimulators.com/litevent.html
Ken Brooks
Roscoe, IL
Mired down with the canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Aeroelectric Seminars / Terminals |
Terry,
Absolutely worth the time and money. Highly recommend. - In fact our EAA
chapter is sponsoring Bob's North East Seminar in March - with special hotel
rates.
Regarding the materail counts you will use more than you think. If the item
is cheap I usually order double what I think I'll need and have afew spares
at the end. I have also found a few good sources that have the items, a good
turn around time and are reasonable.
I will add buy the higest quality parts you can - they will be worth it.
Good building,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "" <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Aeroelectric Seminars / Terminals
>Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 22:44:02 -0500 (EST)
>
>
>Two questions for the list...
>
>1) For those that have been to the aeroelectric seminars...would you go
>again? Do you feel you gained much more than having simply read the book?
>Anyone heading to the seminar in KC on 2/7?
>
>2) If anyone kept a list of the types (red splice, #6 red stud, blue
>faston, etc.) and rough quantities of terminal connectors used, I would
>appreciate the help. I know it certainly depends on the panel, but I'm
>just looking for some direction in advance.
>
>Thanks,
>Scott
>RV7A Wings
>http://sky.prohosting.com/rv7a/
>
>
>Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
>The most personalized portal on the Web!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
Wheeler,
I agree with you except that "out" is stable and "in" is unstable. We
had this issue with a Woody Pusher many years ago and found this out
through trial and error. With the original toe-in that it had, it was so
squirrely that it was dangerous and when we adjusted it out, it became a
pussy cat but went through tires quickly.
I also believe that some of the main wheel shimmy that the RV's seem to
have from time to time may be caused by excessive toe-in. The wheels
tend to track towards each other and when they reach their limit, they
loose traction and snap back setting up an oscillation. When they track
away from each other they just scuff.
I may be all wet on this but it's based on what I've learned in 35 years
of fooling with taildraggers. All may feel free to disagree. :>)
Dave
Wheeler North wrote:
>
>Dave,
>
>I wrestled with this in my mind for a long time and finally decided that if
>both axels form a straight line with the weight on the wheels then it really
>doesn't matter what their respective position is, assuming the gear dosen't
>flex any or flexes symetrically.
>
>It seemed to me that since they won't flex exactly symetrical then as the
>tail goes higher they will flex more due to weight shift fwd, and as they
>flex toe will shift from in to out while camber will shift from positive to
>negative. So as the tail goes down, they will unflex and it should shift to
>toein. This is due to the aft, outward rake on the gear. The extra weight
>will add both a bending moment back/up and slightly outwards and a twisting
>moment along the axis of the gear leg. If you hold your arm in the gear leg
>position, with your fist cocked in the postion of the wheel then rotate your
>arm along its axis you will see what I mean. The twisting action is what
>effects toe the most.
>
>So it seemed the worse time to have toe out would be WOW or lighter in a
>wheel landing, whereas any extra toe in other phases would just be more
>stability and less tire life. And the reason I picked level is that I hope
>to never make a landing with the tail higher than that attitude.
>
>Not sure if this logic is completely valid, ie any holes I missed, but I
>seem to be able to land it and the tires provide good service life.
>
>W
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Burnett" <smileyburnett(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aeroelectric Seminars / Terminals |
Scott,
Definitely go to the KC seminar. I went to the Jeff City one and I am still
reading the book, but it makes more sense now. Take along a couple of
electric items you are concerned about and you may get some answers while
you're there.
Best wishes,
Ron Burnett
----- Original Message -----
From: <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com>
Subject: RV-List: Aeroelectric Seminars / Terminals
>
>
> Two questions for the list...
>
> 1) For those that have been to the aeroelectric seminars...would you go
again? Do you feel you gained much more than having simply read the book?
Anyone heading to the seminar in KC on 2/7?
>
> 2) If anyone kept a list of the types (red splice, #6 red stud, blue
faston, etc.) and rough quantities of terminal connectors used, I would
appreciate the help. I know it certainly depends on the panel, but I'm just
looking for some direction in advance.
>
> Thanks,
> Scott
> RV7A Wings
> http://sky.prohosting.com/rv7a/
>
>
> Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
> The most personalized portal on the Web!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Which is more efficient?? |
| From: | Mike Bulcock <mike(at)lancashirewitches.com> |
Hi,
I have a question you might be able to help me with. For cruise which is
more efficient, a big engine or a small engine?
eg. Which would use more fuel?. An RV7 with 160hp or an RV7 with 200hp both
cruising at say 190mph?
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PeterHunt1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Flap Jackscrew Rotation |
Albert,
Yes, the lock nut can, and has, come lose. If it does the flap motor will
wind the flap shaft right off the bearing screw. An easy fix is to add a "grub"
screw which screws through the flap shaft and into the threads of the bearing
screw. I simply drilled a small hole near the end of the flap shaft, tapped
threads into it, went to the local hardware store and purchased a small "grub"
screw with a recessed head to accept an Allen wrench (hex key), installed the
flap motor, adjusted the flap bearing and linkages, and tightened the "grub"
screw tightly into the bearing threads. I also used the lock nut as a back-up.
Pete
Clearwater
RV-6 All electric IFR panel
Installing engine
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rv-8 builders web sites |
Mike,
Here are the 4 sites I visit most, not in any order of preference:
Kevin Horton
Randy Lervold
Bill VonDane
Larry Bowen
I am building an RV-8 which is located in Hanger D30 at Peachtree City. Met
you there at the Bar B Q.
Paul LeDoux
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Which is more efficient?? |
On Thu, 29 Jan 2004, Mike Bulcock wrote:
> eg. Which would use more fuel?. An RV7 with 160hp or an RV7 with 200hp both
> cruising at say 190mph?
Lycomings achieve best specific fuel consumption (lb/hp-hr) at close to
"24-squared" conditions (24" manifold pressure and 2400 RPM), or 75 percent
power. So whichever engine was closest to that would give you the lowest fuel
consumption. At 75 percent cruise with the 200 HP engine you'll be going
almost as fast as the 160 HP engine can go flat out, so you will definitely be
getting better fuel consumption with the 200 HP engine at that speed. At a
guess, I'd say 190 mph is about half-way between 120 HP cruise (75 percent of
160) and 150 HP cruise (75 percent of 200). So the best engine FOR THAT SPEED
is probably 180 HP.
The bottom line is that you will always get better fuel consumption with the
160 engine, up to the practical limit of its performance (i.e. 75 percent
cruise). But if you want to cruise faster than that you have no choice, you
need the more powerful engine. If you operate the 200 HP engine at 120 HP in
cruise you will not get as good fuel consumption as you would with the 160 HP
at the same speed. (Plus, you may not get as good life out of the engine.)
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Which is more efficient?? |
| From: | Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net> |
I think this is something most will agree on! The fuel consumption will be
nearly identical, given the drag factors weight, and propeller efficiency
are nearly the same. I have flown in gaggles enough with different
horsepower RV-6s and 4s to verify that that for the same cruise speed, the
fuel consumption is very close between the 160 and 180 HP . The angle valve
is supposed to be a little more efficient so I would give it the slight nod.
Of course the obvious disclaimer is that you must not be over taxing the
160. 190 TAS is pretty high for the 160 so you might be going over 75%.
When you do that you should run full rich and consumption goes up big time.
Bottom line I predict very close.
Denis
> From: Mike Bulcock <mike(at)lancashirewitches.com>
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 23:40:46 -0300
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Which is more efficient??
>
>
> Hi,
>
> I have a question you might be able to help me with. For cruise which is
> more efficient, a big engine or a small engine?
>
> eg. Which would use more fuel?. An RV7 with 160hp or an RV7 with 200hp both
> cruising at say 190mph?
>
>
> Mike
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Blank <blanks01(at)luey.redars.ca.boeing.com> |
| Subject: | Anywhere WX and others? |
Dear List,
Anyone have additional information on NEXRAD weather
comming down from XM satellite radio? I hear they are going to
have a weather channel available in March from one of the PDA
navigation software companies. If it is what I'm thinking then
I could have XM radio tunes plus weather info going to my ipaq
for a groovey colored overlay. I did write to sirius and they
responded saying a weather channel would be in place in the next
twelve months. Just looking for a lower cost solution than a
satellite phone. Of course if I had only bought XM stock a year
ago I wouldn't care ;
)
Steven Blank
Seattle rv-6a wings
DNA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Gray <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: rv-8 builders web sites |
Sam Buchanan's RV-6 site is my reference for construction photos. IMO an
invaluable resource for this non pre-punch kit.
Doug Gray
PSILeD(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> Here are the 4 sites I visit most, not in any order of preference:
> Kevin Horton
> Randy Lervold
> Bill VonDane
> Larry Bowen
> I am building an RV-8 which is located in Hanger D30 at Peachtree City. Met
> you there at the Bar B Q.
> Paul LeDoux
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVEIGHTA(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Microair 760/Flighttech Intercom |
Jim/All, I installed my Flighttech 402-P ENRI intercom in my RV-8A and flew
yesterday for about 2 1/2 hours. The built-in intercom with my Microair 760
radio was just too noisy for my taste, but this baby (402-P) performs as
advertised. Very crisp, clear communications between me and my passenger. As pointed
out by someone else, there is a sort of "swishing" discernable in the
background, but turning down the volume a tad seems to cure that problem. I'm a
happy
camper!
Walt Shipley N-314TS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: [rv8list] T'Bird shot. |
Hopefully ending the debate on whether the photo is real or not...
Here's testimony from the photographer himself... I can't see anything
unbelievable in his testimony.
-----
I have noticed all over the internet the shot I had taken of the
Thunderbird crash at Mountain Home AFB, ID and though I am not at
liberty to share the photo; it is out there. I would like to end some
speculation and let you know the photo is real.
I'm a Still Photographer for the USAF and I was stationed at MHAFB
during the air show. I was on the catwalk of the tower at Mtn Home along
with another photog (video) and about seven other (military) spectators.
I have shot the T-birds from the tower before and I was pretty excited
to do it again (the sky was perfect blue). I followed Thunderbird 6 from
takeoff and watched as he pulled into his maneuver. I then noticed
something seemed to be wrong, his direction was a little off; he was
pulling out and heading right towards the tower. At this point I figured
two things: 1. He's either going to fly past this tower and we'll feel
the heat or 2. This is going to be ugly... I waited for the aircraft to
level and clicked the shutter, what I saw through the lens will never go
away...
At the same time as I shot I seen a flash of light and horrific sound. I
was shooting on high speed continuous and the next couple frames were a
ball of fire and my feet, right before I ran. We all ran to the other
side of the tower, I tried to get everyone in along with my partner and
finally made it in myself. By the time we got inside the 16 had stopped
sliding and rested about 100 ft in front of the tower. I then continued
documenting the work of our base firefighters as they put out the
flames. It was an experience and though I can't officially make any
comments to the matter, I would like to say Capt Stricklin saved
lives... enough said.
For those who are wondering the image is not cleared for public release.
Also for those fellow photogs I was shooting with a D1x with a 300mm,
2.8 @ 1000 and 2000
Thanks,
SSgt Bennie J. Davis III
Still Photographer, USAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kai Schumann <kai92117(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Anywhere WX and others? |
I've been watching the progress on this.
There will be 3 levels of weather - Aviation, Marine &
Emergency Response - all offering different aspects of
weather reporting.
What we are interested in is XM WX Aviator, which has
a subscription price of $49.99/mo and a one time $75
activation fee. Yes - thats fifty bucks a month. Way
too pricey for me, but would be very handy for those
who cross country every week.
XM WX Aviator will supply the following data:
*Nexrad Radar (High Resolution)
*Nexrad Radar status
*Storm Cell Attributes
*METARs
*TAFs
*County Warnings
*City Forcasts
*Surface Analysis
*Lightning
*SIGMETs
*AIRMETs
*Storm (echo) Tops
*Winds Aloft (at altitude)
Kai
--- Steve Blank
wrote:
>
>
> Dear List,
> Anyone have additional information on NEXRAD
> weather
> comming down from XM satellite radio? I hear they
> are going to
> have a weather channel available in March from one
> of the PDA
> navigation software companies. If it is what I'm
> thinking then
> I could have XM radio tunes plus weather info going
> to my ipaq
> for a groovey colored overlay. I did write to
> sirius and they
> responded saying a weather channel would be in place
> in the next
> twelve months. Just looking for a lower cost
> solution than a
> satellite phone. Of course if I had only bought XM
> stock a year
> ago I wouldn't care ;
> )
>
> Steven Blank
> Seattle rv-6a wings
> DNA
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net> |
I'm looking at the plans for installing the Wd-657 steps and it mentions using
a fluted cutter to make the hole through the fuselage and baggage floor ribs.
Anyone know who sells one of these? I didn't see one at Aircraft Spruce.
Thanks,
Karie Daniel
RV-7A
Sammamish, WA.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Anywhere WX and others? |
| From: | Tom Brusehaver <cozytom(at)mn.rr.com> |
Remember too the FAA is working on something like this,
FIS-B, part of the ADS-B stuff. It is available already
in many areas, it will be without a monthly charge.
Here is an old document:
http://www.asc.nasa.gov/aatt/wspdfs/OlmosMittelmanSF21.pdf
wrote:
> --> Avionics-List message posted by: Kai Schumann
>
> I've been watching the progress on this.
>
> There will be 3 levels of weather - Aviation, Marine &
> Emergency Response - all offering different aspects of
> weather reporting.
> What we are interested in is XM WX Aviator, which has
> a subscription price of $49.99/mo and a one time $75
> activation fee. Yes - thats fifty bucks a month. Way
> too pricey for me, but would be very handy for those
> who cross country every week.
> XM WX Aviator will supply the following data:
> *Nexrad Radar (High Resolution)
> *Nexrad Radar status
> *Storm Cell Attributes
> *METARs
> *TAFs
> *County Warnings
> *City Forcasts
> *Surface Analysis
> *Lightning
> *SIGMETs
> *AIRMETs
> *Storm (echo) Tops
> *Winds Aloft (at altitude)
>
> Kai
>
> --- Steve Blank
> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Dear List,
>> Anyone have additional information on NEXRAD
>> weather
>> comming down from XM satellite radio? I hear they
>> are going to
>> have a weather channel available in March from one
>> of the PDA
>> navigation software companies. If it is what I'm
>> thinking then
>> I could have XM radio tunes plus weather info going
>> to my ipaq
>> for a groovey colored overlay. I did write to
>> sirius and they
>> responded saying a weather channel would be in place
>> in the next
>> twelve months. Just looking for a lower cost
>> solution than a
>> satellite phone. Of course if I had only bought XM
>> stock a year
>> ago I wouldn't care ;
>> )
>>
>> Steven Blank
>> Seattle rv-6a wings
>> DNA
>>
>>
>>
>> Contributions
>> any other
>> Forums.
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
>> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
>> http://www.matronics.com/archives
>> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
>> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> __________________________________
>
>
--
Using M2, Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/m2/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fluted Cutter |
In a message dated 1/30/04 2:12:42 PM Eastern Standard Time,
karie4(at)comcast.net writes:
> I'm looking at the plans for installing the Wd-657 steps and it mentions
> using a fluted cutter to make the hole through the fuselage and baggage floor
> ribs. Anyone know who sells one of these?
Karie,
If you have a Dremel Tool or similar you can buy a fluted cutter at Home
Depot that works great. I think it is about $8.
Dale Ensing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fluted Cutter |
Your local hardware has them
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)QCBC.ORG> |
| Subject: | Re: Fluted Cutter |
The trade name is Unibit!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Fluted Cutter
>
> I'm looking at the plans for installing the Wd-657 steps and it mentions
using a fluted cutter to make the hole through the fuselage and baggage
floor ribs. Anyone know who sells one of these? I didn't see one at Aircraft
Spruce.
>
> Thanks,
> Karie Daniel
> RV-7A
> Sammamish, WA.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Martin" <fairlea(at)execulink.com> |
| Subject: | Gretz pitot tubes |
I post this message as a heads up regarding a warranty issue that I just ran
into. A little over two years ago I purchased two heated pitot heads,
AN5812, and brackets from Warren Gretz. I installed one of them last year
on one plane with no problems. I just installed the other one on my current
project and right out of the box the heater element was defective. I called
Mr. Gretz and he stated that he no longer dealt with the company that
supplies the units and that I should call the company. I called the
company, Aero Instrument Co. of Cleveland Ohio, and they stated that their
warranty is for one year from time of purchase and that they would not do
anything for us and that I should call Mr. Gretz! I asked if they would
check the unit to see if it was a manufacturing error and they refused to
even look at it!!. As I understand the situation they are the only supplier
of these heated pitot heads, the cost of which, in ACS is $300.
I bring this to your attention so that you can check your parts
shelf and test these units. I am most unhappy with the level of customer
service of both Mr Gretz and the supplier of the pitot heads, Areo
Instruments. I sincerely wish that there was an alternative and if someone
knows of one I would appreciate a contact phone number.
Tom Martin
Fairlea Field
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Sneed <n242ds(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | future IFR VFR conditions |
Anyone have a site that predicts IFR VFR conditions for the next 24
hours or so? I have a good map of current airport conditions just
looking for future conditions from now. I know any future conditions
would only be predictions.
Thanks,
Jason Sneed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)warpdriveonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: future IFR VFR conditions |
http://aviationweather.gov/products/swl/
>
> Anyone have a site that predicts IFR VFR conditions for the next 24
> hours or so? I have a good map of current airport conditions just
> looking for future conditions from now. I know any future conditions
> would only be predictions.
>
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://n5lp.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: future IFR VFR conditions |
http://www.rvproject.com/wx/
Click on "TAFs", and at the bottom of the page you can customize your
location/radius. It gives you decoded, color-coded TAFs and also a
VFR/MVFR/IFR/LIFR designation for each time period.
Hope this helps,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jason Sneed" <n242ds(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV-List: future IFR VFR conditions
>
> Anyone have a site that predicts IFR VFR conditions for the next 24
> hours or so? I have a good map of current airport conditions just
> looking for future conditions from now. I know any future conditions
> would only be predictions.
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Jason Sneed
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wayne(at)engravers.net |
Mail transaction failed. Partial message is available.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:STEC-20 |
Anybody happen to have the installation instructions for an STEC-20? Need
the pinouts for the head,servo,DG,and CDI inputs. Thanks in advance!
Bentley Floyd
RV6 0320
Finish Kit
Fax 270-843-3285
Bowling Green, KY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fluted Cutter |
I wasn't aware it's the same thing as a unibit. Too bad, it's an 1 1/2 inch
hole, that's a pricey unibit.
Thanks,
Karie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)QCBC.ORG>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fluted Cutter
>
> The trade name is Unibit!
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Fluted Cutter
>
>
> >
> > I'm looking at the plans for installing the Wd-657 steps and it mentions
> using a fluted cutter to make the hole through the fuselage and baggage
> floor ribs. Anyone know who sells one of these? I didn't see one at
Aircraft
> Spruce.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Karie Daniel
> > RV-7A
> > Sammamish, WA.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Re: future IFR VFR conditions |
http://adds.aviationweather.noaa.gov/projects/adds/progs/
I pop this one up to get 6 prog charts - click on any of the 6 "small"
charts and it goes full screen.
David
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jason Sneed" <n242ds(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV-List: future IFR VFR conditions
>
> Anyone have a site that predicts IFR VFR conditions for the next 24
> hours or so? I have a good map of current airport conditions just
> looking for future conditions from now. I know any future conditions
> would only be predictions.
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Jason Sneed
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dr. Leathers" <DrLeathers(at)822heal.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fluted Cutter |
Hi Karie,
I think I have a 1.5" holesaw. Would that work? You are welcome to it.
Doc
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fluted Cutter
>
> I wasn't aware it's the same thing as a unibit. Too bad, it's an 1 1/2
inch
> hole, that's a pricey unibit.
>
> Thanks,
> Karie
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)QCBC.ORG>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fluted Cutter
>
>
> >
> > The trade name is Unibit!
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net>
> > To:
> > Subject: RV-List: Fluted Cutter
> >
> >
> > >
> > > I'm looking at the plans for installing the Wd-657 steps and it
mentions
> > using a fluted cutter to make the hole through the fuselage and baggage
> > floor ribs. Anyone know who sells one of these? I didn't see one at
> Aircraft
> > Spruce.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Karie Daniel
> > > RV-7A
> > > Sammamish, WA.
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fluted Cutter |
Karie
For the 1 1/2 inch holes in the side skins, I used a B & D hole saw after
using a unibit to bring the pilot holes in the skins up to the same size as
the pilot drill in the hole saw. Locating the holes through the baggage
ribs and forming the step flanges to match the fuselage was mostly trial and
error. I did have to elongate the holes that I made in the baggage ribs
with a dremel tool to get final clearance for the tubes.
Dean Van Winkle
RV-9A Fuselage/Finish
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fluted Cutter
>
> I wasn't aware it's the same thing as a unibit. Too bad, it's an 1 1/2
inch
> hole, that's a pricey unibit.
>
> Thanks,
> Karie
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)QCBC.ORG>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fluted Cutter
>
>
> >
> > The trade name is Unibit!
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net>
> > To:
> > Subject: RV-List: Fluted Cutter
> >
> >
> > >
> > > I'm looking at the plans for installing the Wd-657 steps and it
mentions
> > using a fluted cutter to make the hole through the fuselage and baggage
> > floor ribs. Anyone know who sells one of these? I didn't see one at
> Aircraft
> > Spruce.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Karie Daniel
> > > RV-7A
> > > Sammamish, WA.
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-List Prop Dowel Pins |
| From: | smoothweasel(at)juno.com |
Does anyone know if I can get one of the alignment dowels that index the
prop/crank from someone other than the supplier ? I have a Hartzell and
a O-320B3B. ACS does not show any for this combo and I have looked at a
few other sources with "no cigar"! If I have to I will go to Hartzell
but would rather find a dealer or even possibly a good used one.
Joel "Weasel" Graber
-4 install prop and inspect
Brooksville MS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:STEC-20 |
IIRC, the 20 is a 30 minus the alt hold features......
I have a thirty......although mine is set up for GPSS to a NSD1000 HSI -
shouldn't matter for what you need though.
Contact me directly, I have a scanner at work...the sheets are big so you
might end up with four to a sheet or so......
Ralph Capen
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jbfcfi(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List:STEC-20
>
> Anybody happen to have the installation instructions for an STEC-20? Need
> the pinouts for the head,servo,DG,and CDI inputs. Thanks in advance!
>
> Bentley Floyd
> RV6 0320
> Finish Kit
> Fax 270-843-3285
> Bowling Green, KY
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Tachometer For Sale |
I don't know if any of you have use for this item. I currently have it
listed on ebay. If you have an interest. Call me this weekend. Thanks,
Don
Item number: 2456532241
Description
Mechanical Tachometer TSO'd Mitchell, Timer Inop
NO RESERVE
I can vouch that this works perfectly other than the timer. I have checked
it against an optical PropTach and it is spot on from 700 to 2700 rpm.
Face is Like New
TSO'd
No noise or needle bounce
"All of us need to be reminded that the federal government did not create
the states; the states created the federal government!"---Ronald Reagan
Check out the coupons and bargains on MSN Offers!
http://shopping.msn.com/softcontent/softcontent.aspx?scmId=1418
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fluted Cutter |
Karie Daniel wrote:
>
>I'm looking at the plans for installing the Wd-657 steps and it mentions using
a fluted cutter to make the hole through the fuselage and baggage floor ribs.
Anyone know who sells one of these? I didn't see one at Aircraft Spruce.
>
>Thanks,
>Karie Daniel
>RV-7A
>Sammamish, WA.
>
>
I used a regular hole saw, like you cut holes in wooden doors with. I
was worried a little but it worked great. I think I have pictures on my
site, should be on the first or second fuselage page.
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gretz pitot tubes |
I returned mine to Gretz Aero and bought one from a salvage yard for 1/3 the
price. It works fine.
Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
9 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Martin" <fairlea(at)execulink.com>
Subject: RV-List: Gretz pitot tubes
>
> I post this message as a heads up regarding a warranty issue that I just
ran
> into. A little over two years ago I purchased two heated pitot heads,
> AN5812, and brackets from Warren Gretz. I installed one of them last year
> on one plane with no problems. I just installed the other one on my
current
> project and right out of the box the heater element was defective. I
called
> Mr. Gretz and he stated that he no longer dealt with the company that
> supplies the units and that I should call the company. I called the
> company, Aero Instrument Co. of Cleveland Ohio, and they stated that their
> warranty is for one year from time of purchase and that they would not do
> anything for us and that I should call Mr. Gretz! I asked if they would
> check the unit to see if it was a manufacturing error and they refused to
> even look at it!!. As I understand the situation they are the only
supplier
> of these heated pitot heads, the cost of which, in ACS is $300.
>
> I bring this to your attention so that you can check your
parts
> shelf and test these units. I am most unhappy with the level of customer
> service of both Mr Gretz and the supplier of the pitot heads, Areo
> Instruments. I sincerely wish that there was an alternative and if
someone
> knows of one I would appreciate a contact phone number.
>
>
> Tom Martin
>
> Fairlea Field
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rich Crosley" <dirtrider(at)qnet.com> |
One toe-in comment I haven't read. Assume a nice steady crosswind from the
left. You lower the left wing to stop drift, add right rudder to line up
the fuselage with the centerline and touch down on the left main, which is
inconveniently toed-in and headed exactly the direction you don't want to
go, off the right side of the runway. Set the tires up as parallel as
possible. Van's sells shims for the "8", 1/2 and 1 degrees. Even if the
gear legs are a little out of square, bolt them on the best you can without
cutting up the entire belly of the airplane and shim out the rest at the
axles.
Rich Crosley
RR-8, engine, canopy
Palmdale, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Greg Gruninger ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Greg Gruninger
Subject: Completed RV-8!
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/GGrun5673@gbronline.com.01.31.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Rob Ray ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Rob Ray
Subject: RV-FOUR (Editor's Note: WOW!!)
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/smokyray@yahoo.com.01.31.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Jerry Calvert ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Jerry Calvert
Subject: Leather Interior
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/rv6@cox.net.01.31.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dr. Leathers" <DrLeathers(at)822heal.com> |
Attn: RV9(A) builders, this could be a real bargain!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item2457267413&category26428
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dr. Leathers" <DrLeathers(at)822heal.com> |
I don't know why this link did not work. Just go to ebay motors aircraft for
this Lyc O235.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dr. Leathers" <DrLeathers(at)822heal.com>
Subject: RV-List: Lyc O-235
>
> Attn: RV9(A) builders, this could be a real bargain!
>
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item2457267413&cate
gory26428
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wayne(at)engravers.net |
The message contains Unicode characters and has been sent as a binary attachment.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Riveting Experts? |
| From: | sonja.englert(at)juno.com |
For all of those who are not yet experts in working with metal, take a look at
my latest book. It is described on my web page
http://www.caro-engineering.com
The other books which contain a lot of useful information for homebuilders are
about engine installations, composites and flight testing.
Sonja
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fabian Lefler" <fablef(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | RV-9A Kit For Sale |
It is with a heavy heart I post this message to the various lists. Personal
issues (not financial) are forcing me to sell my beloved RV-9A kit. I have
labored over this kit for the past 3 years, and consider it to be a very
well built and good looking airplane. I would love to sell it to someone in
the area who can appreciate some occasional, and FREE, help from me to
complete the kit.
THIS AIRPLANE COULD BE FLYING IN LESS THAN A COUPLE OF MONTHS.
You can see some photos and detailed description here:
http://www.affordablepanels.com/rv9aforsale.htm
The Kit Includes:
-Eggenfellner Firewall Forward Package - Normally Aspirated (Installed).
-MT 3 Blade Propeller (Still in Crate).
-Altrak Altitude Hold (Installed).
-Trio Avionics Autopilot (Installed).
-Aeroflash Nav and Strobe Lighting.
-Interior by Cleveland Tools with plenty of extra fabric.
-Fuselage is on its gear and Canopy Work is finished with all skirts
installed.
-Modular Panel (Installed), but no instrument holes have been cut out.
-Much more.
Please NO E-MAILS. If you are interested, please call me at 561-641-9737
Thank You
Fabian
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)QCBC.ORG> |
Did and Didn't find an engine.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dr. Leathers" <DrLeathers(at)822heal.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Lyc O-235
>
> I don't know why this link did not work. Just go to ebay motors aircraft
for
> this Lyc O235.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dr. Leathers" <DrLeathers(at)822heal.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Lyc O-235
>
>
> >
> > Attn: RV9(A) builders, this could be a real bargain!
> >
> >
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item2457267413&cate
> gory26428
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net> |
Looks like an equal sign dropped out. Here is where I found it:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2457267413
> From: "Dr. Leathers" <DrLeathers(at)822heal.com>
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2004 14:31:20 -0800
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Lyc O-235
>
>
> I don't know why this link did not work. Just go to ebay motors aircraft for
> this Lyc O235.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dr. Leathers" <DrLeathers(at)822heal.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Lyc O-235
>
>
>>
>> Attn: RV9(A) builders, this could be a real bargain!
>>
>>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item2457267413&cate
> gory26428
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: (irrelevant...delete now) confession of an RV builder |
Dan Checkoway wrote:
>
>Is it so wrong that I like working with fiberglass?!
>
>
>
Yes Dan, it's actually kind of .... well, weird!
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV List Prop Dowel Pins |
I assume you are referring to crankshaft prop lugs. I got used ones for our
RV-4 from an engine rebuild shop in Tulsa,Oklahoma. I think they had an ad in
Sport Aviation. I might have gotten the info from Gibson Aviation in OK too.
Anyway I got the lugs for about half the new cost of $28 /ea.
I talked to one of the engine shop guys.
Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
Charleston, Arkansas
"Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lyle Peterson" <lyleap(at)access4less.net> |
For the O-235 on eBay just do a search for 2457267413. This will take
you to the Lycoming.
Lyle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
| Subject: | (irrelevant...delete now) confession of an RV builder |
Not weird, shows great intelligence and a appreciation of graceful well
formed lines.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Bristol
Subject: Re: RV-List: (irrelevant...delete now) confession of an RV
builder
Dan Checkoway wrote:
>
>Is it so wrong that I like working with fiberglass?!
>
>
>
Yes Dan, it's actually kind of .... well, weird!
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fluted Cutter |
Thanks, I went ahead and picked one up while I was out today. I figured I
would end up using it again sooner or later anyway. How have you been? The
offer still stands for you to drop in anytime to take a look at the
progress. I don't remember but have you taken delivery of your kit yet? Let
me know when you do, I'd really like to see the kit.
Karie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dr. Leathers" <DrLeathers(at)822heal.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fluted Cutter
>
> Hi Karie,
>
> I think I have a 1.5" holesaw. Would that work? You are welcome to it.
>
> Doc
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fluted Cutter
>
>
> >
> > I wasn't aware it's the same thing as a unibit. Too bad, it's an 1 1/2
> inch
> > hole, that's a pricey unibit.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Karie
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)QCBC.ORG>
> > To:
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Fluted Cutter
> >
> >
> > >
> > > The trade name is Unibit!
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net>
> > > To:
> > > Subject: RV-List: Fluted Cutter
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > I'm looking at the plans for installing the Wd-657 steps and it
> mentions
> > > using a fluted cutter to make the hole through the fuselage and
baggage
> > > floor ribs. Anyone know who sells one of these? I didn't see one at
> > Aircraft
> > > Spruce.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > > Karie Daniel
> > > > RV-7A
> > > > Sammamish, WA.
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Brown <acrojim(at)cfl.rr.com> |
I am looking at installing landing light's in the wing tips on the
RV-7A instead of in the wings. Can anyone comment on this position,
either Pro or Con. Also what type of lights are you using?
Jim Brown
N112B
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Dynon EMI (different scenario) |
I know that this issue has been discussed as it relates the external
compass. However, what about this scenario:
I'm building an RV-7A and have all my instruments installed in the panel,
including the Dynon D-10 EFIS. I do not have the Dynon external compass
since the DG on the Dynon and my SIRS brand magnetic compass read exactly
the same. So far so good.
However, given the discussion of the EMI issue, I decided to do a test. I
hooked up the Dynon directly to my main battery using alligator clips and a
2 lengths of unshielded wire, one for positive and one for negative. No
other instrument is turned on. So the
only electrons flowing around are strictly Dynon electrons. When I give the
Dynon power, my handheld radio exhibits all sorts of noise across all
channels. It's so loud I cannot even hear AWOS. When I take away the power,
the noise goes away.
Does this mean that I also will have the noise problem on my panel COM radio
when I get to the point of completing it's installation?
Regards,
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
I am using Duckworh and they seem to get pretty hot to be in the
fiberglass wingtips but I may be wrong. They do work fine mounted in the
wings as they are designed.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Brown
Subject: RV-List: Landing lights
I am looking at installing landing light's in the wing tips on the
RV-7A instead of in the wings. Can anyone comment on this position,
either Pro or Con. Also what type of lights are you using?
Jim Brown
N112B
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Dynon EMI (different scenario) |
> I know that this issue has been discussed as it relates the
> external compass. However, what about this scenario:
>
> I'm building an RV-7A and have all my instruments installed
> in the panel, including the Dynon D-10 EFIS. I do not have
> the Dynon external compass since the DG on the Dynon and my
> SIRS brand magnetic compass read exactly the same. So far so good.
>
> However, given the discussion of the EMI issue, I decided to
> do a test. I hooked up the Dynon directly to my main battery
> using alligator clips and a 2 lengths of unshielded wire, one
> for positive and one for negative. No other instrument is
> turned on. So the only electrons flowing around are strictly
> Dynon electrons. When I give the Dynon power, my handheld
> radio exhibits all sorts of noise across all channels. It's
> so loud I cannot even hear AWOS. When I take away the power,
> the noise goes away.
>
> Does this mean that I also will have the noise problem on my
> panel COM radio when I get to the point of completing it's
> installation?
Paul, an RVator here recently finished a 7A, and had radio noise caused
by the display of the ACS2002 engine monitoring system. These fancy
color displays seem to put out radio noise. He fixed his by putting a
choke or some such thing on the proper lead inside the unit. He worked
with the factory on his issue. I would suspect a similar thing is
needed with your unit.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 434 hours and holding, wondering if flying weather will
return...
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon EMI (different scenario) |
Here's a data point on the other side of the fence. I have a Dynon with the
EDC-D10 external compass. I have NO EMI to speak of.
Granted, this is not a complete test, since I'm (a) not running the engine
and (b) not flying. But I figure if there's no noise on the ground running
only on the battery, any noise that I experience in any other condition
would have to be due to an independent, external factor.
Anyway, so far so good -- I'm not experiencing the same problems that you
guys are. Assume it comes down to how it's installed & wired?
I reserve the right to complain later as I do more thorough testing... 8
)
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Boyce, Ph.D." <matronicspost@csg-i.com>
Subject: RV-List: Dynon EMI (different scenario)
<matronicspost@csg-i.com>
>
> I know that this issue has been discussed as it relates the external
> compass. However, what about this scenario:
>
> I'm building an RV-7A and have all my instruments installed in the panel,
> including the Dynon D-10 EFIS. I do not have the Dynon external compass
> since the DG on the Dynon and my SIRS brand magnetic compass read exactly
> the same. So far so good.
>
> However, given the discussion of the EMI issue, I decided to do a test. I
> hooked up the Dynon directly to my main battery using alligator clips and
a
> 2 lengths of unshielded wire, one for positive and one for negative. No
> other instrument is turned on. So the
> only electrons flowing around are strictly Dynon electrons. When I give
the
> Dynon power, my handheld radio exhibits all sorts of noise across all
> channels. It's so loud I cannot even hear AWOS. When I take away the
power,
> the noise goes away.
>
> Does this mean that I also will have the noise problem on my panel COM
radio
> when I get to the point of completing it's installation?
>
> Regards,
>
> Paul
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Landing lights |
In a message dated 2/1/2004 5:42:01 AM Pacific Standard Time,
acrojim(at)cfl.rr.com writes:
I am looking at installing landing light's in the wing tips on the
RV-7A instead of in the wings. Can anyone comment on this position,
either Pro or Con. Also what type of lights are you using?
In my 6A I have the RMDs. They have the best coverage and are the most
sanitary installation I've seen. I have Ducky Don's 100W halogen bulbs.
GV (RV-6A N1GV flying 675 hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <Tim(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | (irrelevant...delete now) confession of an RV builder |
Aaand, The fiberglass work on my -6 is still not done and all of it is
ready to do. Your welcome to show up at my house and do as much as you want
as it scares me to even think of it. :-)
Tim Bryan
RV-6 N616TB 13 years in the making
finish kit still, running out of things to do to avoid the glass work
-------Original Message-------
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Saturday, January 31, 2004 20:34:47
Subject: RE: RV-List: (irrelevant...delete now) confession of an RV builder
Not weird, shows great intelligence and a appreciation of graceful well
formed lines.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Bristol
Subject: Re: RV-List: (irrelevant...delete now) confession of an RV
builder
Dan Checkoway wrote:
>
>Is it so wrong that I like working with fiberglass?!
>
>
>
Yes Dan, it's actually kind of .... well, weird!
Dave
.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dr. Leathers" <DrLeathers(at)822heal.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fluted Cutter |
Hi Karie,
There is no kit for the Bearhawk Patrol. It is a plans built only design. I
am working on jigs now. I have a 4' X 40' roll of .025 2024 T3 aluminum on
order. You are welcome see what I have so far. Will you be home today? If
so, can you email directions to your house again and name a time. I am free
today and would love to come see what you have done so far!
Thanks
Doc
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fluted Cutter
>
> Thanks, I went ahead and picked one up while I was out today. I figured I
> would end up using it again sooner or later anyway. How have you been? The
> offer still stands for you to drop in anytime to take a look at the
> progress. I don't remember but have you taken delivery of your kit yet?
Let
> me know when you do, I'd really like to see the kit.
>
> Karie
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dr. Leathers" <DrLeathers(at)822heal.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fluted Cutter
>
>
> >
> > Hi Karie,
> >
> > I think I have a 1.5" holesaw. Would that work? You are welcome to it.
> >
> > Doc
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net>
> > To:
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Fluted Cutter
> >
> >
> > >
> > > I wasn't aware it's the same thing as a unibit. Too bad, it's an 1 1/2
> > inch
> > > hole, that's a pricey unibit.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Karie
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)QCBC.ORG>
> > > To:
> > > Subject: Re: RV-List: Fluted Cutter
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > The trade name is Unibit!
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net>
> > > > To:
> > > > Subject: RV-List: Fluted Cutter
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > I'm looking at the plans for installing the Wd-657 steps and it
> > mentions
> > > > using a fluted cutter to make the hole through the fuselage and
> baggage
> > > > floor ribs. Anyone know who sells one of these? I didn't see one at
> > > Aircraft
> > > > Spruce.
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks,
> > > > > Karie Daniel
> > > > > RV-7A
> > > > > Sammamish, WA.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gene Polenske" <Rv8tor(at)centurytel.net> |
I'm skinning my RV-8 wings and haven't started my tanks yet. I am getting ready
to place an order to Avery tool and I have a question. Avery advertises a close
quarter 8-32 screw dimpler kit for the fuel tank flanges. Is this something
I need? I don't recall hearing anybody mentioning it. Just want to get
everything at once, I hate waiting!
Any other (must have/really glade I had) type tools I need to be ordering.
Also I have about 450 3/32 clecos, going to order 300 more, is this enough?
Thanks, Gene
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <Tim(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gretz pitot tubes |
Tom,
I have had a new one in the box for several years. Guess I better go check
it's function. Let us know what you end up doing with yours as others
(maybe me) could end up where you are.
Tim Bryan
RV-6 N616TB
-------Original Message-------
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Friday, January 30, 2004 15:20:44
Subject: RV-List: Gretz pitot tubes
I post this message as a heads up regarding a warranty issue that I just ran
into. A little over two years ago I purchased two heated pitot heads,
AN5812, and brackets from Warren Gretz. I installed one of them last year
on one plane with no problems. I just installed the other one on my current
project and right out of the box the heater element was defective. I called
Mr. Gretz and he stated that he no longer dealt with the company that
supplies the units and that I should call the company. I called the
company, Aero Instrument Co. of Cleveland Ohio, and they stated that their
warranty is for one year from time of purchase and that they would not do
anything for us and that I should call Mr. Gretz! I asked if they would
check the unit to see if it was a manufacturing error and they refused to
even look at it!!. As I understand the situation they are the only supplier
of these heated pitot heads, the cost of which, in ACS is $300.
I bring this to your attention so that you can check your parts
shelf and test these units. I am most unhappy with the level of customer
service of both Mr Gretz and the supplier of the pitot heads, Areo
Instruments. I sincerely wish that there was an alternative and if someone
knows of one I would appreciate a contact phone number.
Tom Martin
Fairlea Field
.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing lights |
I thought the RMD lights were fantastic. They look great, and put out alot
of light. They were ALOT of work to install, though. The kit is very good
quality, but it's just I really hate fiberglass. I like Bill VonDane's set
up from what I have seen on the web, too. Never seen the kit in person,
though.
George O has an RMD video that he sells that made it much easier, IMHO.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Soon
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Landing lights
>
> In a message dated 2/1/2004 5:42:01 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> acrojim(at)cfl.rr.com writes:
> I am looking at installing landing light's in the wing tips on the
> RV-7A instead of in the wings. Can anyone comment on this position,
> either Pro or Con. Also what type of lights are you using?
> In my 6A I have the RMDs. They have the best coverage and are the most
> sanitary installation I've seen. I have Ducky Don's 100W halogen bulbs.
>
>
> GV (RV-6A N1GV flying 675 hrs)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Dynon EMI (different scenario) |
>Dynon will recommend to you that the unit be powered from the buss NOT
>powering your avionics for the reasons you indicated. You should be able
>to get the noise down to a small amount with this method. But it will
>likely never be down to an immaterial level. You will likely always be
>able to hear the degradation in com quality with the Dynon powered.
Hi Mike,
What happens if you run it from the internal backup battery?
Just out of curiosity, what brand of display do they use?
Anyone had the courage to open up a Dynon to see if it
would be easy to connect a different display?
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com> |
Hi Gene:
I can't speak for the 8 wing, but for my 6A wing, that dimpler kit was a
must, as some of the screw-holes for the tanks are very close to the spar
doublers making it impossible to get a regular dimple set in there to dimple
the spar flange.
As to clecoes....you NEVER have enough!
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
panel
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gene Polenske" <Rv8tor(at)centurytel.net>
Subject: RV-List: tools
>
> I'm skinning my RV-8 wings and haven't started my tanks yet. I am getting
ready to place an order to Avery tool and I have a question. Avery
advertises a close quarter 8-32 screw dimpler kit for the fuel tank
flanges. Is this something I need? I don't recall hearing anybody
mentioning it. Just want to get everything at once, I hate waiting!
>
> Any other (must have/really glade I had) type tools I need to be ordering.
>
> Also I have about 450 3/32 clecos, going to order 300 more, is this
enough?
>
> Thanks, Gene
> Wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: (irrelevant...) confession of an RV builder |
Ah, a man after my own soul. You must be a perfectionist like me. I dreaded
working with that messy stuff just like you. Guess what, its not all that
bad after you get used to it. Its like making mud pies. I had an expert come
over and start on my windshield and canopy bow. I thought I finally found
someone willing to do the thing for me. Well, after he put on a couple layers
of
fiberglass, and some micro balloons, he said that's all there is to it and
left! Anyway, it took me about a month because you have to wait 24 hours before
sanding those micro balloons, but the thing looks pretty good.
When using micro balloons, just mix about 1/2 inch of slow epoxy for about a
minute in a plastic cup and then stir in as much micro as it will take. It
will fill the cup up with about 3 inches of real frothy stuff which will stay in
place and be easy to sand the next day. I put it on with a plastic thing
like you get at the auto parts stores. I did this for about probably 20 days.
You will be an expert like me by that time! Well, I'm not an expert, but at
least I'm not afraid of the stuff any more.
I use West Systems 105 with 206 hardener (as recommended by Van's) from
Aircraft Spruce, and use a triple beam balance to get the 5:1 ratio. I weigh the
resin and multiply by 1.2 and move the scale to that number and then add
hardener to the same plastic cup using a small bottle for the hardener. That's
slower than how the experts do it, but it's more accurate and fits my personality
better! Yogurt cups are perfect, but picnic cups work OK too. Don't use
waxed cups. Just do it!
Dan Hopper
N766DH RV-7A will fly this spring for sure
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: (irrelevant...) confession of an RV builder |
> I use West Systems 105 with 206 hardener (as recommended by Van's) from
> Aircraft Spruce, and use a triple beam balance to get the 5:1 ratio. I
weigh the
> resin and multiply by 1.2 and move the scale to that number and then add
I'm sure I'm probably stating the obvious, but Spruce sells a trivial ratio
pump kit for West Systems. P/N: 01-00318 is only $10.20!
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/westepoxy.php
Man, it's so easy to use and worth 5x the price! One pump of resin, one
pump of hardener, mix it, done deal. Takes all the guesswork out of the
equation. No caps to mess with -- just leave the pumps in the cans.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Hansen" <jerry-hansen(at)cox.net> |
You might like to know that the LCD version of the Trio EZ Pilot is now on
the web site http://www.trioavionics.com and that Trio is now taking orders
for this version with first delivery within two weeks.
Jerry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wheeler North
Subject: RV-List: Trio Report
Sam,
I got a chance to fly with Chuck, the grand bruhah engineer and chief duck
at Trio the other day. He's one of the nicest guys you'll ever meet. It was
a smooth as glass day so we played with it and came up with 4, 4, for the
intercept gains and 7 for the pullin, as the most sensitive without hunting.
We also found that the auto turn rate worked the best at various speeds. It
now seems to stay within .01 nm or 60 ft of track and intercepts nicely. He
also got a good look at the weakness of the display in direct sunlight, they
are soon to offer, if not already, the LCD version I believe. I made a
little 1 inch shade that sits just above the display below the upper
switches. It has two tabs that catch the upper mount screws.
He felt that as long as the servo arm lengths for the attachments to the
control system were similar to mine then these settings would be fairly good
for
most of us. I believe I used the longest arm length the servo had to offer,
and then attached to the wing belcrank such that the servo arm still has
1/8" travel before contacting the servo stops, not sure what those actual
arm lengths were though.
I've been practicing intercepting the localizer from about 125 degrees off
course and it turns into it onto track within one tick on the OBS needle.
It really improves upon the Navaid for precision and info display. I did
suggest that they let the TOP be more then 1 nm.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon EMI (different scenario) |
lucky macy wrote:
>
> oh man, not what i wanted to hear. hope dynon solves this problem sooner
> rather than later. anyone know if they are even acknowledging and work hard
> on it? anyway, what's the scoop from them on how R&D is going, if at all,
> on the larger display EFIS system?
The EMI issue apparently is noticeable in only a small percentage of
Dynon installations.
And yes, they are *very* aware of it and are working the problem.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, Dynon)
http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: Dynon EMI (different scenario) |
There's a couple of very disappointing things about this situation:
1) in a total electric failure emergency, my backup handheld radio will most
likely be rendered useless.
2) in an otherwise excellent product, those engineering folks at Dynon have
completely dropped the ball in not doing thorough Quality Control checks on
EMI. Isn't it obvious that in a highly electrified environment such as an
airplane cockpit, one MUST check for EMI? Is that too much to ask?
I will be giving them a call tomorrow.
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: (irrelevant...delete now) confession of an RV builder |
Tim Bryan wrote:
>
> Aaand, The fiberglass work on my -6 is still not done and all of it is
>ready to do. Your welcome to show up at my house and do as much as you want
>as it scares me to even think of it. :-)
>Tim Bryan
>RV-6 N616TB 13 years in the making
>finish kit still, running out of things to do to avoid the glass work
>
>-
>
A little fear can be a very healthy thing. :>)
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Dynon EMI (different scenario) |
January 21, 2004 - February 01, 2004
RV-Archive.digest.vol-ou