RV-Archive.digest.vol-ow
February 10, 2004 - February 18, 2004
>
> Made an interesting discovery today while chasing down the source of EMI
> from my Dynon. Like many, I have a distinct noise in the headsets,
> which goes away when the Dynon is turned off. My electric system is the
> main bus/ essential bus, per Lectric Bob. Both the Dynon and Comm are
> on the essential bus. While futzing around, I turned the E bus switch
> on while leaving the power master on. The noise instantly decreased
> about 80%. The battery is getting rather tired from so much ground use,
> and the voltage at the Dynon was showing 10.4V. When the E bus was
> switched on, the voltage increased by 0.7V (the amount dropped by the
> diode feeding the E bus.) Intrigued, I hooked up the battery charger
> and tried it again. The voltage at the Dynon was now 12.5V with the E
> bus and battery switches on, and the remaining noise decreased by about
> half, to a level I consider pretty close to acceptable. In addition,
> the strobe noise I was experiencing also disappeared.
>
> For those experiencing EMI on the ground (not yet flying, like me) you
> may want to give this a try. I have not had a chance to test this with
> the engine running yet, perhaps in a day or two I will have time to do so.
>
> My theory as to why this is, and it is an uneducated SWAG- the noise
> filter circuits inside all of the boxes (Dynon, radio and strobe
> supplies) are not functioning because of the low voltage, while the
> units themselves appear to work. What does anyone think of that?
>
> Jeff Point
> RV-6 getting very close
> Milwaukee WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov> |
| Subject: | PCB panel (was: Composite instrument panel) |
Might be interesting to build an instrument panel using PCB
(printed circuit board) technology. The maximum board size is about 21
inches by 24 inches. (Standard is 16" x 22".) You can go from 0.020" to
0.125" thick. (Standard thicknesses are .031" .062" .093" and .125" ) The
board is made of very well characterized epoxy fiberglass composite. Much
stronger than aluminum of the same weight and size. Several formulations
are available.
The basic board is puke yellow, but green solder mask is standard
(that's why PCBs are usually green.) You can opt for red, blue, black, or
white (extra cost.) White silk screen is standard, but you can get yellow
or black easily (extra cost.) Other colors are possible, but you will pay a
lot extra. If you like, you could easily lay out the copper (traces) on the
surface to be any graphic design you want. You can easily opt for gold
plating the copper, but you will pay a bit extra. If you would like, the
entire visible surface of the panel could be gold.
All the cut-outs, holes, etc would be routed out.
What might be particularly fun would be to use the panel for
wiring the gauges, much like they do in automobiles. If you used surface
mount type connections, nothing would have to poke through the front
surface. Very slick. Way easy to wire. Much, much lighter than a
conventional panel with conventional wiring.
If you just wanted a single pair of 16" x 22" panels, they would
cost you about $650 each. However, if you wanted 10 of them, the price
would drop down to about $200 each. This isn't including the layout and
set-up fees, however.
I wouldn't mind doing the layout.
Would folks be interested in a generic, pre-wired, PCB composite
instrument panel?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Composite instrument panel |
Laird... If you want, I will give you a page on my www.epanelbuilder.com
site...
Just let me know!
-Bill VonDane
bill(at)vondane.com
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Laird Owens" <owens(at)aerovironment.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Composite instrument panel
Hi Charlie,
Your memory isn't failing. The web site got pulled off the air.
I bummed a page off a friends web site, but he shut it down in
January. I've wanted to update it and add some customer panel
pictures, but I haven't had time (and I'm not very web savvy, so I'm
not sure what to do).
I still make the panels for the 6,7,and 9 with slider canopies when I
get an order.
Have them get in touch with me via email at:
owens(at)aerovironment.com
I can answer questions and send some pics if they like.
Regards,
Laird Owens
RV-6 SoCal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
| Subject: | Log Book entries |
FAA order 8130.2E(or latest rev) chapter 7 section 134 gives you the wording
for exp phase and aerobatic logbook entries. This should match what your
limitations say as well since this order was intended to drive the wording
used in the limitations.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harvey Sigmon" <sighsrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: hole for wing tie down |
Lee: I have built 2 RV-6's the spar web your friend is concerned about is a
non issue. After you attach the wing skin to the spar web the attach
fitting is secure and I have never seen a crack on an RV-6 at that point.
Before I attach the Tie Down
fitting in the wing with the AN3 bolts I champher the hole in the web to
prevent any crack that might develop.
My view only.
Harvey Sigmon RV-6A N602RV flying
----- Original Message -----
From: <Leesafur(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: hole for wing tie down
>
> Dear RV Builders:
>
> For those of you that have built an older RV can you tell me if you
have
> had any problems with the hole in the spar for the wing tie down; like
> cracking? I had a friend of mine come check my work although not an RV
builder he is
> a AP and works on much bigger aircraft. He was concerned about the hole in
the
> spar flange.
> What do you think? http://www.angelfire.com/mech/rv-3/pics.html
>
>
> Lee
> Anoka MN
> RV-3 wing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Laird Owens, Composite instrument panel |
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
Charlie, Laird moniters this list. I'm sure he will check in soon.
I have his panel myself.
Cecil Hatfield
writes:
>
> There used to be a web site showing a neat composite instrument
> panel
> for the RV-6. I believe the panel was made by Laird Owen and shown
> on
> his site, but my memory fails me. The site is no longer available or
> I
> can't find it. I've got two different builder friends that are
> interested.
>
> Was it Laird Owen?
>
> Is the panel still available?
>
> Is the web site still up under a different address?
>
> Charlie
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leesafur(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: hole for wing tie down |
Harvey thanks for the response I took Lucky's advice and called Vans and they
said it was a non factor the flange is there to fasten the skin not carry the
load.
Lee
Anoka MN
RV-3 wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
Jeff and the RV-List Gang,
Thanks for the tip on Jiffy Trim. Mine arrived yesterday (Monday). I think
I just ordered it Friday. It is really perfect for the job. Much better that
I had hoped for.
Jiffy Trim should be included in the original kits!
Dan Hopper
N766DH RV-7A to fly this Spring
In a message dated 2/8/04 1:49:12 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
shempdowling(at)earthlink.net writes:
> >Jeff,
> >Could not find it on their web site even searching the name Jiffy Trim. Is
> >there more to the name?
> >Dale Ensing
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Great find on glare shield end cap/cover |
Jeff and the RV-List Gang,
Thanks for the tip on Jiffy Trim.=A0 Mine arrived yesterday (Monday).=A0 I think
I just ordered it Friday.=A0 It is really perfect for the job.=A0 Much better
that
I had hoped for.
Jiffy Trim should be included in the original kits!
Dan Hopper
N766DH RV-7A to fly this Spring
In a message dated 2/8/04 1:49:12 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
shempdowling(at)earthlink.net writes:
> >Jeff,
> >Could not find it on their web site even searching the name Jiffy Trim. Is
> >there more to the name?
> >Dale Ensing
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Great find on glare shield end cap/cover |
Is there anyone out there with a picture of this stuff??? If it is so
good, I probably want some :-) . But I don't buy anything sight unseen.
Thanks,
Dick Tasker, RV9A #90573
Hopperdhh(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
>Jeff and the RV-List Gang,
>
>Thanks for the tip on Jiffy Trim.=A0 Mine arrived yesterday (Monday).=A0 I think
>I just ordered it Friday.=A0 It is really perfect for the job.=A0 Much better
>that
>I had hoped for.
>
>Jiffy Trim should be included in the original kits!
>
>Dan Hopper
>N766DH RV-7A to fly this Spring
>
>In a message dated 2/8/04 1:49:12 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
>shempdowling(at)earthlink.net writes:
>
>
>
>>>Jeff,
>>>Could not find it on their web site even searching the name Jiffy Trim. Is
>>>there more to the name?
>>>Dale Ensing
>>>
>>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Great find on glare shield end cap/cover |
Its 3 bucks.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Great find on glare shield end cap/cover
>
> Is there anyone out there with a picture of this stuff??? If it is so
> good, I probably want some :-) . But I don't buy anything sight unseen.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dick Tasker, RV9A #90573
>
> Hopperdhh(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >Jeff and the RV-List Gang,
> >
> >Thanks for the tip on Jiffy Trim.=A0 Mine arrived yesterday (Monday).=A0
I think
> >I just ordered it Friday.=A0 It is really perfect for the job.=A0 Much
better
> >that
> >I had hoped for.
> >
> >Jiffy Trim should be included in the original kits!
> >
> >Dan Hopper
> >N766DH RV-7A to fly this Spring
> >
> >In a message dated 2/8/04 1:49:12 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
> >shempdowling(at)earthlink.net writes:
> >
> >
> >
> >>>Jeff,
> >>>Could not find it on their web site even searching the name Jiffy Trim.
Is
> >>>there more to the name?
> >>>Dale Ensing
> >>>
> >>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | tie down ring fairing |
I read some where recently that it is worth it to put a fairing on the
tie down rings - they can cause noticable amounts of drag. I found some
discussion of this in the archives, but no leads to a photograph or a
clear description. I'm having trouble imagining how this would be done.
Do they attach to the tie down ring just before flight, or is it
possible to fair the ring and still have it be usable for tieing down?
Anybody know anything about such a thing?
--
Tom Sargent - RV-6A canopy.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: tie down ring fairing |
thomas a. sargent wrote:
>
>I read some where recently that it is worth it to put a fairing on the
>tie down rings - they can cause noticable amounts of drag. I found some
>discussion of this in the archives, but no leads to a photograph or a
>clear description. I'm having trouble imagining how this would be done.
>Do they attach to the tie down ring just before flight, or is it
>possible to fair the ring and still have it be usable for tieing down?
>
>Anybody know anything about such a thing?
>--
>Tom Sargent - RV-6A canopy.
>
>
>
>
Why go to all that trouble? Just remove them when not needed.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Baker Seal vs Fuel Lube |
I'm wondering, what the best thing to use for fuel line fittings? I have some Baker
Seal but I have been told that fuel lube is what is recommended. I searched
Spruce and Cleaveland and couldn't find anything called fuel lube. Also while
I'm asking, what should be used for brake line fittings?
Thanks,
Karie Daniel
RV-7A
Sammamish, WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: tie down ring fairing |
Hi,
Why not just take them out? Not sure about the 6, but on the 8
we have a place just behind the passenger's shoulders to put
the rings when flying.
Mickey
>I read some where recently that it is worth it to put a fairing on the
>tie down rings - they can cause noticable amounts of drag.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
| Subject: | Baker Seal vs Fuel Lube |
Try doing a search on just "lube" in both Wicks and Aircraft Spruce.
Try this for starters.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/sealube.php
Mike Nellis
RV-6 Fuselage N699BM
1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K
http://bmnellis.com
*** -----Original Message-----
*** From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
*** [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
*** Karie Daniel
*** Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2004 1:07 AM
*** To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
*** Subject: RV-List: Baker Seal vs Fuel Lube
***
***
***
*** I'm wondering, what the best thing to use for fuel line
*** fittings? I have some Baker Seal but I have been told that
*** fuel lube is what is recommended. I searched Spruce and
*** Cleaveland and couldn't find anything called fuel lube.
*** Also while I'm asking, what should be used for brake line fittings?
***
*** Thanks,
***
*** Karie Daniel
*** RV-7A
*** Sammamish, WA
***
***
*** =============
*** Matronics Forums.
*** =============
*** =============
*** =============
***
***
***
***
***
***
***
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Van's Seat Cushion Set For Sale |
Thanks for all the replies, but the cushions have been sold.
Dave
N567A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Great find on glare shield end cap/cover |
All folks looking for Jiffy Trim the web site is
http://www.baerfabrics.com/ they have 800 #s and can supply info
Pat Patterson /TC / AB-DAR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Baker Seal vs Fuel Lube |
> I'm wondering, what the best thing to use for fuel line
> fittings? I have some Baker Seal but I have been told that
> fuel lube is what is recommended. I searched Spruce and
> Cleaveland and couldn't find anything called fuel lube. Also
> while I'm asking, what should be used for brake line fittings?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Karie Daniel
> RV-7A
> Sammamish, WA
Karie, which part of the fittings are you referring to? If you are
talking about the pipe threads, EZTurn is good stuff. It is fuel lube
under a different name. It is important not to use anything which could
shed, such as teflon tape or joint compound. Never put any fittings into
the oil cooler dry, without something, or you may find that you are
buying a new cooler when the fittings seize. If you are talking about
the flared fittings, nothing is used except proper torque (and a proper
37 degree flare tool, don't skimp there, in the case of tubing).
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 436 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Baker Seal vs Fuel Lube |
Alex,
I hadn't learned this yet myself. So you mean ALL the AN fittings for stuff
like fuel lines, the AN fittings on the fuel lines, hydraulic lines, vent
lines, etc get no treatment other than just proper torque?
What about the low pressure fuel pump threads and Van's fuel selector valve
threads?
thanks,
lucky
In a message dated 2/11/2004 8:04:03 AM Eastern Standard Time,
alexpeterson(at)usjet.net writes:
Karie, which part of the fittings are you referring to? If you are
talking about the pipe threads, EZTurn is good stuff. It is fuel lube
under a different name. It is important not to use anything which could
shed, such as teflon tape or joint compound. Never put any fittings into
the oil cooler dry, without something, or you may find that you are
buying a new cooler when the fittings seize. If you are talking about
the flared fittings, nothing is used except proper torque (and a proper
37 degree flare tool, don't skimp there, in the case of tubing).
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 436 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net> |
| Subject: | tie down ring fairing |
Tom,
The glass and wood airplane guys just take them out and put them in a bag
during the walk around.
simple and lightest.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of thomas a.
sargent
Subject: RV-List: tie down ring fairing
I read some where recently that it is worth it to put a fairing on the
tie down rings - they can cause noticable amounts of drag. I found some
discussion of this in the archives, but no leads to a photograph or a
clear description. I'm having trouble imagining how this would be done.
Do they attach to the tie down ring just before flight, or is it
possible to fair the ring and still have it be usable for tieing down?
Anybody know anything about such a thing?
--
Tom Sargent - RV-6A canopy.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)QCBC.ORG> |
| Subject: | Re: Baker Seal vs Fuel Lube |
only the pipe thread end get any compound, NO Teflon tape, the other ends
are clean and dry.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter soon to be Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: <RV8ter(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Baker Seal vs Fuel Lube
>
> Alex,
> I hadn't learned this yet myself. So you mean ALL the AN fittings for
stuff
> like fuel lines, the AN fittings on the fuel lines, hydraulic lines, vent
> lines, etc get no treatment other than just proper torque?
>
> What about the low pressure fuel pump threads and Van's fuel selector
valve
> threads?
>
> thanks,
> lucky
>
> In a message dated 2/11/2004 8:04:03 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> alexpeterson(at)usjet.net writes:
> Karie, which part of the fittings are you referring to? If you are
> talking about the pipe threads, EZTurn is good stuff. It is fuel lube
> under a different name. It is important not to use anything which could
> shed, such as teflon tape or joint compound. Never put any fittings into
> the oil cooler dry, without something, or you may find that you are
> buying a new cooler when the fittings seize. If you are talking about
> the flared fittings, nothing is used except proper torque (and a proper
> 37 degree flare tool, don't skimp there, in the case of tubing).
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> RV6-A N66AP 436 hours
> www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dynon remote compass location |
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
I'm planning on the right wing root, near the inspection cover. I have an
AP servo, strobe power supply and canopy frame behind the baggage area, so
I ruled it out.
-
Larry Bowen, RV-8 FWF
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
James Gray said:
>
> Can anyone recommend a best location for the Dynon remote compass on an
> RV-8.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Gray
> N747JG - wiring soon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Baker Seal vs Fuel Lube |
> Alex,
> I hadn't learned this yet myself. So you mean ALL the AN
> fittings for stuff
> like fuel lines, the AN fittings on the fuel lines, hydraulic
> lines, vent
> lines, etc get no treatment other than just proper torque?
>
> What about the low pressure fuel pump threads and Van's fuel
> selector valve
> threads?
>
> thanks,
> lucky
Correct, no treatment. Only the male pipe threads, and be careful to not
put any EZTurn (fuel lube) on the end where it will be in the flow path.
If, when you are tightening a pipe thread and have to bail out on the
last turn and back up bacause it got too tight, start over again with
cleaning the threads and re applying lube.
The fuel pumps have some special fittings on them, if I understand your
question correctly. The actual fuel fittings have an O-ring seal, so
they don't need anything. The fuel overflow port in the pump is pipe
thread, I believe. Van's selector valve is pipe threads, unless
something newer has replaced it.
Others on the list can recommend the best publications/books describing
acceptable practices for aircraft, but AC 43.13-1B is a must have. It
can be bought at various suppliers.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 436 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Bendix/King Avionics Repair Experience |
Does anyone have experience with Bendix-King factory repairs. From the sound
of it, the minimum charge for just the estimate on my KLX/135A GPS is $380.
Evidently, only one repair facility in the US is authorized to open it up.
Also, does anyone else in the New Jersey/Eastern Pennsylvania area have KLX
135/A GPS/Com. I would like to plug my GPS into another acft to make sure its
the GPS and not some other problem. I've tried a new antenna and cable. It
is having trouble reciving/holding satellite fixes.
Dave Beizer
South Jersey Regional
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John D. Heath" <altoq(at)direcway.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon remote compass location |
Galvanized steel pipe in aileron, too close ???
John D.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon remote compass location
>
> I'm planning on the right wing root, near the inspection cover. I have an
> AP servo, strobe power supply and canopy frame behind the baggage area, so
> I ruled it out.
>
> -
> Larry Bowen, RV-8 FWF
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
> James Gray said:
> >
> > Can anyone recommend a best location for the Dynon remote compass on an
> > RV-8.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Jim Gray
> > N747JG - wiring soon
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bendix/King Avionics Repair Experience |
Garmin has a similar deal. My 250XL was having reboot problems and
I sent it in. Cost was $400 flat no matter what had to be done.
Didn't even get an database update out of it! (They said that was a
Jeppeson gig).
Laird
RV-6 SoCal
>
>Does anyone have experience with Bendix-King factory repairs. From the sound
>of it, the minimum charge for just the estimate on my KLX/135A GPS is $380.
>Evidently, only one repair facility in the US is authorized to open it up.
>
>Also, does anyone else in the New Jersey/Eastern Pennsylvania area have KLX
>135/A GPS/Com. I would like to plug my GPS into another acft to make sure its
>the GPS and not some other problem. I've tried a new antenna and cable. It
>is having trouble reciving/holding satellite fixes.
>
>Dave Beizer
>South Jersey Regional
>RV-6A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim and Bev Cone" <jimnbev(at)olypen.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon remote compass location |
I mounted the remote compass for my EFIS One in the tail cone by making a bracket
that mounts to the horizontal panel where the horizontal stab is mounted.
The bracket extends forward into the tail cone. It is far away from anything
steel or magnetic. This should work for the Dynon as well.
Jim Cone
3-peat offender
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SCOTT MORGAN <sdmorgan(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bendix/King Avionics Repair Experience |
Dave,
I received a similar quote from Bendix King to look at my KLX 135A. I took it to
a great avionics shop here in the Houston Area, Avionics Unlimited. They opened
it, replaced a fuse, charged me $37.00, and I flew home.
I believe any avionics shop can open the unit. If it is still under warranty, the
shop will need to be an authorized Bendix King service center.
Good Luck,
Scott
PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com wrote:
Does anyone have experience with Bendix-King factory repairs. From the sound
of it, the minimum charge for just the estimate on my KLX/135A GPS is $380.
Evidently, only one repair facility in the US is authorized to open it up.
Also, does anyone else in the New Jersey/Eastern Pennsylvania area have KLX
135/A GPS/Com. I would like to plug my GPS into another acft to make sure its
the GPS and not some other problem. I've tried a new antenna and cable. It
is having trouble reciving/holding satellite fixes.
Dave Beizer
South Jersey Regional
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Linn,
no, your plane is not grandfathered, its just certified as it was certified.
If the limitations don't call for this then, than it isn't needed.
There have been several iterations of how special exp. airworthiness
limitations should be written over the last many years, as they progress it
has gotten more uniform throughout the country.
FAA 0rder 8130.2E(or latest rev) Chapter 7 defines the most current "model"
for Exps. Read this and then your old limitations and if the new ones look
better to you than you can usually get the old ones upgraded to the new
standards through your local FSDO.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Karie,
use fuel lube for fuel fittings but it isn't that great for higher pressure
fitting like brakes. I have had it work, and have had it not work there.
Seal lube seems to work though
http://www.wicksaircraft.com/gotopage.php?page=52
W
From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Baker Seal vs Fuel Lube
I'm wondering, what the best thing to use for fuel line fittings? I have
some Baker
Seal but I have been told that fuel lube is what is recommended. I searched
Spruce and Cleaveland and couldn't find anything called fuel lube. Also
while
I'm asking, what should be used for brake line fittings?
Thanks,
Karie Daniel
RV-7A
Sammamish,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com> |
| Subject: | Center console/throttle setup |
Does anyone recognize this RV interior?
http://www.n523rv.com/images/RVCenterConsole.jpg
I really like this setup with the throttle in the middle and the little
pedestal running up with fuel gauge and trim indicators. I would like to
talk with whoever did this.
Matthew Brandes,
Van's RV-9A (Wings/Fuselage)
EAA Chapter 868/91
www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | !New! CS props for sale |
Hi All,
I have new MT Propeller aluminum blade 2 blade CS propellers for sale.
$5,500 including factory installed spinner.
This propeller was designed for the Lycoming 360 engine only.
No mid range RPM restriction on any Lycoming 360 engine.
Check out my website www.lessdrag.com for details.
Click on "Lycoming 360 engine", or "MT Propeller"
(The website is still under development. I would appreciate any constructive
suggestions.)
Jim Ayers
Less Drag Products, Inc.
An OEM Distributor for MT Propeller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Log Book entries |
This document is available in the new version of Kitlog Pro, or it is
available here:
http://www2.faa.gov/certification/aircraft/av-info/dst/amateur/8130.2chap4sec7.pdf
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Soon
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Subject: RV-List: Log Book entries
>
>
> FAA order 8130.2E(or latest rev) chapter 7 section 134 gives you the
wording
> for exp phase and aerobatic logbook entries. This should match what your
> limitations say as well since this order was intended to drive the wording
> used in the limitations.
>
> W
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: !New! CS props for sale |
In a message dated 02/11/2004 2:32:01 PM Pacific Standard Time,
klwerner(at)comcast.net writes:
Dear Jim,
Since when is MT using Aluminum blades in their props? And why?
When?
As of today.
Why?
To provide an option for a better aluminum blade CS propeller without a mid
range RPM restriction on any Lycoming 360 engine.
Or maybe it's just the price. Van's sells the Hartzell aluminum blade CS
propeller at a similar price, without a spinner.
Jim Ayers
Less Drag Products, Inc.
PS I sure hope this doesn't start the controversy that occurred when I
mentioned I was testing an Ivoprop. :-)
I could say that I avoided saying anything prior to now, during the test
flights, because of that lengthy thread.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <klwerner(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: !New! CS props for sale |
Jim,
How do they fare with modified engines in terms of harmonic vibrations, i.e. with
Higher Compression / Electronic Ignition?
What is the weight of such a aluminum MT prop?
Konrad
----- Original Message -----
From: LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2004 3:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: !New! CS props for sale
In a message dated 02/11/2004 2:32:01 PM Pacific Standard Time,
klwerner(at)comcast.net writes:
Dear Jim,
Since when is MT using Aluminum blades in their props? And why?
When?
As of today.
Why?
To provide an option for a better aluminum blade CS propeller without a mid
range RPM restriction on any Lycoming 360 engine.
Or maybe it's just the price. Van's sells the Hartzell aluminum blade CS
propeller at a similar price, without a spinner.
Jim Ayers
Less Drag Products, Inc.
PS I sure hope this doesn't start the controversy that occurred when I
mentioned I was testing an Ivoprop. :-)
I could say that I avoided saying anything prior to now, during the test
flights, because of that lengthy thread.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | !New! CS props for sale |
In a message dated 02/11/2004 2:58:37 PM Pacific Standard Time,
klwerner(at)comcast.net writes:
Jim,
How do they fare with modified engines in terms of harmonic vibrations, i.e.
with Higher Compression / Electronic Ignition?
What is the weight of such a aluminum MT prop?
Konrad
I will ask MT Propeller in Germany, tonight, for a specific answer about high
compression pistons and electronic ignition.
Since they started with their 2 blade propeller hub rated for 300 hp, I
wouldn't expect it to be a concern.
The aluminum blades are heavier blades than what MT normally uses.
I do know that the maximum RPM is limited to 2750 RPM on the Lycoming 360
engine, instead of MT's normal 2800 RPM restriction.
As far as the weight, I'll get back to you later this evening. After I've
weighed the flight test propeller assembly. The spinner is already installed,
so the weight will include the spinner.
Jim Ayers
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Crossflow Engine Proposal |
Hello,
I received a detailed proposal from Crossflow today which I don't mind making
available to others potentially interested in a Subie conversion. I got a
couple of private emails from the Subie list from folks thinking this was a
superior design to the Eggenfellner engine for a few reasons but what struck me
chiefly is it had the option of using a hydraulic prop governor. So I looked
into it. With the Egg, you have to use fixed or electric governor (yuch) which
is
for me is like castration to an RV for acro.
But I don't want to email it out to everyone individually so I'm looking for
a place to put it which folks can download if they so chose. Who wants to
host it for others?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cammie Patch" <cammie(at)sunvalley.net> |
I just got my fuselage kit, began constructing the huge mound of paper. I've
been through both boxes but I can't find the inventory list or pages to add
to my instruction book (I'm a rv6 to rv7 convert so I need pages for the 7).
Can anybody tell me where to look?
Cammie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Racing4funn(at)aol.com |
FUCK YOU!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Racing4funn(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Crossflow Engine Proposal |
FUCK YOU!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Racing4funn(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: !New! CS props for sale |
FUCK YOU!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Racing4funn(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: !New! CS props for sale |
FUCK YOU!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Racing4funn(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kitlog Pro Version 1.7 Update |
FUCK YOU!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Racing4funn(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: !New! CS props for sale |
FUCK YOU!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Racing4funn(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Log Book entries |
FUCK YOU!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Racing4funn(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: !New! CS props for sale |
FUCK YOU!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Racing4funn(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: !New! CS props for sale |
FUCK YOU!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Racing4funn(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Prop for sale |
FUCK YOU!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Racing4funn(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Center console/throttle setup |
FUCK YOU!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Racing4funn(at)aol.com |
FUCK YOU!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Racing4funn(at)aol.com |
FUCK YOU!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Racing4funn(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Bendix/King Avionics Repair Experience |
FUCK YOU!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Racing4funn(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Bendix/King Avionics Repair Experience |
FUCK YOU!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Racing4funn(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon remote compass location |
FUCK YOU!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Racing4funn(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Bendix/King Avionics Repair Experience |
FUCK YOU!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Racing4funn(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon remote compass location |
FUCK YOU!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Racing4funn(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Bendix/King Avionics Repair Experience |
FUCK YOU!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: !New! CS props for sale |
Have you guys got one for the IO540......a few of us out here are building
the 10 :)
Thanks....Evan
----- Original Message -----
From: <klwerner(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: !New! CS props for sale
>
> Jim,
> How do they fare with modified engines in terms of harmonic vibrations,
i.e. with Higher Compression / Electronic Ignition?
> What is the weight of such a aluminum MT prop?
> Konrad
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2004 3:46 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: !New! CS props for sale
>
>
> In a message dated 02/11/2004 2:32:01 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> klwerner(at)comcast.net writes:
> Dear Jim,
> Since when is MT using Aluminum blades in their props? And why?
>
> When?
> As of today.
>
> Why?
> To provide an option for a better aluminum blade CS propeller without a
mid
> range RPM restriction on any Lycoming 360 engine.
>
> Or maybe it's just the price. Van's sells the Hartzell aluminum blade
CS
> propeller at a similar price, without a spinner.
>
> Jim Ayers
> Less Drag Products, Inc.
>
> PS I sure hope this doesn't start the controversy that occurred when I
> mentioned I was testing an Ivoprop. :-)
> I could say that I avoided saying anything prior to now, during the test
> flights, because of that lengthy thread.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Racing4funn(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Baker Seal vs Fuel Lube |
FUCK YOU!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Racing4funn(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Baker Seal vs Fuel Lube |
FUCK YOU!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Racing4funn(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Baker Seal vs Fuel Lube |
FUCK YOU!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Racing4funn(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon remote compass location |
FUCK YOU!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Racing4funn(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Baker Seal vs Fuel Lube |
FUCK YOU!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Racing4funn(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Baker Seal vs Fuel Lube |
FUCK YOU!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Crossflow Engine Proposal |
>
>Hello,
>I received a detailed proposal from Crossflow today which I don't mind
>making
>available to others potentially interested in a Subie conversion. I got a
>couple of private emails from the Subie list from folks thinking this was a
>superior design to the Eggenfellner engine for a few reasons but what
>struck me
>chiefly is it had the option of using a hydraulic prop governor. So I
>looked
>into it. With the Egg, you have to use fixed or electric governor (yuch)
>which is
>for me is like castration to an RV for acro.
>
>But I don't want to email it out to everyone individually so I'm looking
>for
>a place to put it which folks can download if they so chose. Who wants to
>host it for others?
Maybe you could scan it and post as a .jpg in the pics section of the RV8
group?
I'd like to see it for sure.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
Create your own personal Web page with the info you use most, at My MSN.
http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200364ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Aaron Villery" <scudrunr1(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Baker Seal vs Fuel Lube |
wow spam
Aaron Villery
F1 Rocket SN138
RV-6 SN24572
----- Original Message -----
From: <Racing4funn(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Baker Seal vs Fuel Lube
>
> FUCK YOU!!!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bobby Sather" <sather(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: !New! CS props for sale |
Who let this idiot on the list? Somebody get me his address. I am sure I
can get him to apologize.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Racing4funn(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: !New! CS props for sale
>
> FUCK YOU!!!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
"Fw: RV-List: Crossflow Engine Proposal" (Feb 11, 4:56pm)
RV8-List(at)matronics.com, Pietenpol-List(at)matronics.com,
Kitfox-List(at)matronics.com, Tailwind-List(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Potty-Mouth Squelched... |
Hi Ed and all,
This annoying fellow has been unsubscribed. I was able to kill a whole
bunch of similar posts from him, but unfortunately quite a few got
through before I could stop them. Funny how he could take the time
to send out all those offensive messages, but not the time to unsubscribe
himself.
My appologies.
Matt Dralle
List Admin.
>--------------
>Hi Matt,
>
>I don't know where the below email came from other than its the Racing4Funn
>address, but the message it conveys clearly falls below the standards we set
>for ourselves on the lists - even when parties get emotional. So I (and I'm
>sure most others agree) this is no place for folks like this on the list. I
>presume that he is a subscriber, so unsubscribing him would be the
>appropriate action. If it was an unauthorized use of some legitimate
>subscribers e mail, then he should at least be make aware of it.
>
>Sincerely
>
>Ed
>Ed Anderson
>RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
>Matthews, NC
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <Racing4funn(at)aol.com>
>To: ;
>Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2004 7:33 PM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Crossflow Engine Proposal
>
>
>>
>> F*CK Y*U!!!
>--------------
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jgburns" <jgburns(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Rotary Engine Discussions at Sun 'n Fun 2004 |
If you might be interested in rotary engine discussions and will be at Sun 'n Fun
2004, please check out the invitation on the engine list (link below).
http://www.matronics.com/digest/engines-list/Digest.Engines-List.2004-02-10.html#MESSAGE8
Regards,
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Walker" <ron(at)walker.net> |
My pick list was stapled to the inside wall of the crate -- along with the
instructions for installing the step kit. If they are not that obvious, I'd
be asking Vans about it. I think the added pages were inside of the larger
drawings. Yep .. I just checked my photos and sure enough they are stapled
to the inside wall of the box that contains the rollbar and plans. Not sure
if this list allows attachments , but I'll try.
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cammie Patch" <cammie(at)sunvalley.net>
Subject: RV-List: Fuse kit
>
>
> I just got my fuselage kit, began constructing the huge mound of paper.
I've
> been through both boxes but I can't find the inventory list or pages to
add
> to my instruction book (I'm a rv6 to rv7 convert so I need pages for the
7).
> Can anybody tell me where to look?
> Cammie
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Walker" <ron(at)walker.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Baker Seal vs Fuel Lube |
Did I miss something here ? Or did someone fib on their membership
application ;o)
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: <Racing4funn(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Baker Seal vs Fuel Lube
>
> FUCK YOU!!!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: !New! CS props for sale |
Ya know, the small print seems to add quite a bit to the $5500 mentioned
on the website.
what would the final cost be to deliver to a Milwaukee address??
is the price going to vary with the exchange rate??
the website mentiones a discount for fellow rv'ers, how much??
Gert
LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 02/11/2004 2:32:01 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> klwerner(at)comcast.net writes:
> Dear Jim,
> Since when is MT using Aluminum blades in their props? And why?
>
> When?
> As of today.
>
> Why?
> To provide an option for a better aluminum blade CS propeller without a mid
> range RPM restriction on any Lycoming 360 engine.
>
> Or maybe it's just the price. Van's sells the Hartzell aluminum blade CS
> propeller at a similar price, without a spinner.
>
> Jim Ayers
> Less Drag Products, Inc.
>
> PS I sure hope this doesn't start the controversy that occurred when I
> mentioned I was testing an Ivoprop. :-)
> I could say that I avoided saying anything prior to now, during the test
> flights, because of that lengthy thread.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | !New! CS props for sale |
>
>In a message dated 02/11/2004 2:58:37 PM Pacific Standard Time,
>klwerner(at)comcast.net writes:
>
>Jim,
>How do they fare with modified engines in terms of harmonic vibrations, i.e.
>with Higher Compression / Electronic Ignition?
>What is the weight of such a aluminum MT prop?
>Konrad
>
>I will ask MT Propeller in Germany, tonight, for a specific answer about high
>compression pistons and electronic ignition.
>Since they started with their 2 blade propeller hub rated for 300 hp, I
>wouldn't expect it to be a concern.
>The aluminum blades are heavier blades than what MT normally uses.
>I do know that the maximum RPM is limited to 2750 RPM on the Lycoming 360
>engine, instead of MT's normal 2800 RPM restriction.
>
There is a lot more to harmonic vibration than the power that the
prop hub was designed for. The resonant frequency of the blades vs
the frequency spectrum produced by the engine is a much bigger issue.
Just look at the FAA Type Certificate Data Sheet P-920 for the
Hartzell props that many of us are using - you will find widely
varying rpm restrictions for different model O-360s using the same
hub, even though many of the engines have the same power output.
Search page:
<http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgMakeModel.nsf/MainFrame?OpenFrameSet>
Direct link to TCDS P-920:
<http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgMakeModel.nsf/0/c459056338a0f90a86256d600050815a/$FILE/P-920.pdf>
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Crossflow Engine Proposal |
| From: | "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net> |
Link can be found here:
http://www.mstewart.net/deletesoon/Proposal-LuckyMacy.pdf
Enjoy,
Mike Stewart
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV8ter(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Crossflow Engine Proposal
Hello,
I received a detailed proposal from Crossflow today which I don't mind
making
available to others potentially interested in a Subie conversion. I got
a
couple of private emails from the Subie list from folks thinking this
was a
superior design to the Eggenfellner engine for a few reasons but what
struck me
chiefly is it had the option of using a hydraulic prop governor. So I
looked
into it. With the Egg, you have to use fixed or electric governor (yuch)
which is
for me is like castration to an RV for acro.
But I don't want to email it out to everyone individually so I'm looking
for
a place to put it which folks can download if they so chose. Who wants
to
host it for others?
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Crossflow Engine Proposal |
thanks! lucky
>From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Crossflow Engine Proposal
>Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 20:59:36 -0500
>
>
>
>Link can be found here:
>http://www.mstewart.net/deletesoon/Proposal-LuckyMacy.pdf
>
>Enjoy,
>Mike Stewart
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV8ter(at)aol.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Crossflow Engine Proposal
>
>
>Hello,
>I received a detailed proposal from Crossflow today which I don't mind
>making
>available to others potentially interested in a Subie conversion. I got
>a
>couple of private emails from the Subie list from folks thinking this
>was a
>superior design to the Eggenfellner engine for a few reasons but what
>struck me
>chiefly is it had the option of using a hydraulic prop governor. So I
>looked
>into it. With the Egg, you have to use fixed or electric governor (yuch)
>which is
>for me is like castration to an RV for acro.
>
>But I don't want to email it out to everyone individually so I'm looking
>for
>a place to put it which folks can download if they so chose. Who wants
>to
>host it for others?
>
>
>=
>=
>=
>=
>
>
Optimize your Internet experience to the max with the new MSN Premium
Internet Software. http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200359ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Crossflow Engine Proposal |
>
>Hello,
>I received a detailed proposal from Crossflow today which I don't mind making
>available to others potentially interested in a Subie conversion. I got a
>couple of private emails from the Subie list from folks thinking this was a
>superior design to the Eggenfellner engine for a few reasons but
>what struck me
>chiefly is it had the option of using a hydraulic prop governor. So I looked
>into it. With the Egg, you have to use fixed or electric governor
>(yuch) which is
>for me is like castration to an RV for acro.
>
>But I don't want to email it out to everyone individually so I'm looking for
>a place to put it which folks can download if they so chose. Who wants to
>host it for others?
>
I can host if if you want. Just e-mail it to me direct, and I'll put
it up and post a message with the URL.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Baker Seal vs Fuel Lube |
so where does Tite-seal fit in, I was originally told by somebody at ACS
at OSH03 that tite-seal had some fine gritty compound it to prevent
threaded parts from loosening up.
Gert
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dr. Leathers" <DrLeathers(at)822heal.com> |
Hey Guys,
There are some good looking 320 and 360 Lycomings for sale on ebay right now!
Doc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
| Subject: | Baker Seal vs Fuel Lube |
I've used tite-seal on my brake cylinder fitting and it does have some
"grit" type of stuff in it. It's more like a paste and is actually a
little sticky to the touch unlike EZ Lube which is smooth like a lite
lithium grease.
Mike Nellis
RV-6 Fuselage N699BM
1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K
http://bmnellis.com
*** -----Original Message-----
*** From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
*** [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gert
*** Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2004 8:08 PM
*** To: rv-list
*** Subject: RV-List: Baker Seal vs Fuel Lube
***
***
***
*** so where does Tite-seal fit in, I was originally told by
*** somebody at ACS
*** at OSH03 that tite-seal had some fine gritty compound it to prevent
*** threaded parts from loosening up.
***
***
*** Gert
*** --
*** is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
***
***
*** =============
*** Matronics Forums.
*** =============
*** =============
*** =============
***
***
***
***
***
***
***
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Bendix/King Avionics Repair Experience |
I had good luck with these folks about 4 years ago. They might be able to
help you at a little better price. All it'd cost you to find out is the
call. Nothing if you email.
Bevan Rabell, Inc
1880 Airport Road
Wichita, KS 67209 US
Email: kmcintyre(at)bevanrabell.com
316-946-4870
Bryan Jones -8
www.LoneStarSquadron.com
Houston, Texas
>
>Does anyone have experience with Bendix-King factory repairs. From the
>sound
>of it, the minimum charge for just the estimate on my KLX/135A GPS is $380.
>Evidently, only one repair facility in the US is authorized to open it up.
>
>Also, does anyone else in the New Jersey/Eastern Pennsylvania area have
>KLX
>135/A GPS/Com. I would like to plug my GPS into another acft to make sure
>its
>the GPS and not some other problem. I've tried a new antenna and cable.
>It
>is having trouble reciving/holding satellite fixes.
>
>Dave Beizer
>South Jersey Regional
>RV-6A
>
overload! http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200362ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Crossflow Engine Proposal |
| From: | "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" <F.vanderHulst(at)ucol.ac.nz> |
Hi,
I don't know much about CS props... Why is an electric prop governor
"yuch" and "like castration to an RV for acro"?
Frank
Learn real skills for the real world - Apply online
at http://www.ucol.ac.nz or call 0800 GO UCOL
(0800 46 8265) or txt free 3388 for more information
and make a good move to UCOL Universal College of
Learning.
Enrol with a public institute and be certain of your
future
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Jim Jewell ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Jim Jewell
Subject: Dynon Compass Module
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/jjewell@telus.net.02.11.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Bob Olds ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Bob Olds
Subject: Permanent Plate-nut Drill Jig
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/Oldsfolks@aol.com.02.11.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leesafur(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Potty-Mouth Squelched... |
He is on AOL and I was able to IM him and tell him how to unsubscribe!
Lee
Anoka MN
RV-3 wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)QCBC.ORG> |
, ,
, ,
| Subject: | Re: Potty-Mouth Squelched... |
I just forwarded the messages to abuse(at)aol.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
; ;
;
Subject: RV-List: Potty-Mouth Squelched...
>
>
> Hi Ed and all,
>
> This annoying fellow has been unsubscribed. I was able to kill a whole
> bunch of similar posts from him, but unfortunately quite a few got
> through before I could stop them. Funny how he could take the time
> to send out all those offensive messages, but not the time to unsubscribe
> himself.
>
> My appologies.
>
> Matt Dralle
> List Admin.
>
>
> >--------------
> >Hi Matt,
> >
> >I don't know where the below email came from other than its the
Racing4Funn
> >address, but the message it conveys clearly falls below the standards we
set
> >for ourselves on the lists - even when parties get emotional. So I (and
I'm
> >sure most others agree) this is no place for folks like this on the list.
I
> >presume that he is a subscriber, so unsubscribing him would be the
> >appropriate action. If it was an unauthorized use of some legitimate
> >subscribers e mail, then he should at least be make aware of it.
> >
> >Sincerely
> >
> >Ed
> >Ed Anderson
> >RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> >Matthews, NC
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: <Racing4funn(at)aol.com>
> >To: ;
> >Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2004 7:33 PM
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Crossflow Engine Proposal
> >
> >
> >>
> >> F*CK Y*U!!!
> >--------------
>
>
> --
>
>
> Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
> 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
> http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Taylor" <rv7(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Potty-Mouth Squelched... |
Matt,
Personally I expect buttheads such as this. I cannot speak for anyone else
on this list but I understand how this happens Please do not feel bad and
know that people like myself appreciate this list.
-David Taylor
RV-6A (wings)
Warner Robins, GA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
; ;
;
Subject: RV-List: Potty-Mouth Squelched...
>
>
> Hi Ed and all,
>
> This annoying fellow has been unsubscribed. I was able to kill a whole
> bunch of similar posts from him, but unfortunately quite a few got
> through before I could stop them. Funny how he could take the time
> to send out all those offensive messages, but not the time to unsubscribe
> himself.
>
> My appologies.
>
> Matt Dralle
> List Admin.
>
>
> >--------------
> >Hi Matt,
> >
> >I don't know where the below email came from other than its the
Racing4Funn
> >address, but the message it conveys clearly falls below the standards we
set
> >for ourselves on the lists - even when parties get emotional. So I (and
I'm
> >sure most others agree) this is no place for folks like this on the list.
I
> >presume that he is a subscriber, so unsubscribing him would be the
> >appropriate action. If it was an unauthorized use of some legitimate
> >subscribers e mail, then he should at least be make aware of it.
> >
> >Sincerely
> >
> >Ed
> >Ed Anderson
> >RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> >Matthews, NC
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: <Racing4funn(at)aol.com>
> >To: ;
> >Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2004 7:33 PM
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Crossflow Engine Proposal
> >
> >
> >>
> >> F*CK Y*U!!!
> >--------------
>
>
> --
>
>
> Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
> 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
> http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | !New! CS props for sale |
In a message dated 02/11/2004 5:53:59 PM Pacific Standard Time,
khorton01(at)rogers.com writes:
There is a lot more to harmonic vibration than the power that the
prop hub was designed for. The resonant frequency of the blades vs
the frequency spectrum produced by the engine is a much bigger issue.
Just look at the FAA Type Certificate Data Sheet P-920 for the
Hartzell props that many of us are using - you will find widely
varying rpm restrictions for different model O-360s using the same
hub, even though many of the engines have the same power output.
Search page:
<http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgMakeModel.nsf/Mai
nFrame?OpenFrameSet>
Direct link to TCDS P-920:
<http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgMakeModel.nsf/0/c
459056338a0f90a86256d600050815a/$FILE/P-920.pdf>
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
MT Propeller had already gone through all of the analysis and testing before
I received a propeller from them.
All I did was a performance comparison flight. I wonder why do I feel like
some of you guys like to shoot the messenger?
Please remember that MT Propeller is a certified propeller manufacturer.
They have been through all of this with every propeller they manufacture. They
have specific RPM restrictions for their standard propellers on the non
counterweighted crankshaft Lycoming 360 engine, also. Been there, done that.
This one is different. It was designed specifically to not have any Mid
Range RPM restriction on any Lycoming 360 engine. Cyclic loads, harmonics, the
whole 9 yards.
If you just bought a Hartzell, then I guess I can feel sorry for you.
Jim Ayers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: !New! CS props for sale |
In a message dated 02/11/2004 4:41:04 PM Pacific Standard Time,
evmeg(at)snowcrest.net writes:
Have you guys got one for the IO540......a few of us out here are building
the 10 :)
Thanks....Evan
That's one of the first questions I asked. I have a IO-540 engine, also.
MT Propeller has identified the Lycoming 540 engine as a candidate project
for this propeller design. I do not know the schedule. (Maybe I'll have to get
my 540 flying before they'll bring this project forward.)
Jim Ayers
Jim Ayers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | !New! CS props for sale |
So Jim,
How did the performance compare?
Ed Holyoke
>All I did was a performance comparison flight. I wonder why do I feel
like
some of you guys like to shoot the messenger?
Please remember that MT Propeller is a certified propeller manufacturer.
They have been through all of this with every propeller they
manufacture. They
have specific RPM restrictions for their standard propellers on the non
counterweighted crankshaft Lycoming 360 engine, also. Been there, done
that.
This one is different. It was designed specifically to not have any Mid
Range RPM restriction on any Lycoming 360 engine. Cyclic loads,
harmonics, the
whole 9 yards.
If you just bought a Hartzell, then I guess I can feel sorry for you.
Jim Ayers
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: !New! CS props for sale |
In a message dated 02/11/2004 10:57:04 PM Pacific Standard Time,
bicyclop(at)pacbell.net writes:
So Jim,
How did the performance compare?
Ed Holyoke
Hi Ed,
I'm trying to get the performance data on my website at the "Lycoming 360
engine" page. It should be there tomorrow, I hope. www.lessdrag.com
Basically, the performance is the same. The Hartzell is slightly faster at
2,500'.
And the MT Propeller is slightly faster from 5,000' through 12,500' at the
lower RPM's and the Hartzell prop was sometimes faster above 2500 RPM.
The main difference is that being able to run continuous between 2300 and
2000 RPM.
At 12,500', there was no speed loss at 2200 RPM, and the fuel flow was 6.8
gph.
2100 RPM lost 4 mph with a fuel flow at 6.5 gph.
In fact, from 2700 RPM to 2200 RPM the airspeed was within 1 mph, but the
fuel flow went from 8.4 gph to 6.8 gph.
Jim Ayers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KIMSEYCO(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: !New! CS props for sale |
did u read this
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Crossflow Engine Proposal |
With the electric MT prop governor recommended by Egg, the recomendation is
to turn it off for acro because it's SIGNIFICANTLY SLOWER than a hydraulic
governor and can't keep up with the requirements - too easy to overspeed the
engine for sure. One estimate I heard of was the electric is about 1/6th the speed
- reaction time - of a hydraulic system. So you turn it off for acro and end
up fixed pitch.
Not what I want. RVs are chiefly designed for speed and are slippery animals
so I want the props help when it's needed as much as any other time for my
mission - braking during acro. Just a personal choice.
lucky
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Aluminum to Poly tube |
Hello,
I'd like to run poly tubing from my pitot thru the wings. How have people
made the conversion from 1/4 Al tube to 1/4 poly in the wings? Are there
special fittings for this? They were not obvious in my pass thru the ACS
catalog. I am thinking heated Pitot, so I will start with Al for the first
few inches.
Thanks,
Pete
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> Available! |
| Subject: | Re: [ Jim Jewell ] : New Email List Photo Share |
Available!
Jim,
Do you think it wise to install the compass modules that far aft? They will be
fairly close to the steel elevator horn weldments. Since these weldments move
during flight, this could cause rather erratic errors.
Charlie Kuss
>
>
>A new Email List Photo Share is available:
>
> Poster: Jim Jewell
>
>
> Subject: Dynon Compass Module
>
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/jjewell@telus.net.02.11.2004/index.html
>
>
> o Main Photo Share Index
>
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
>
> o Submitting a Photo Share
>
> If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
> following information along with your email message and files:
>
> 1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
> 2) Your Full Name:
> 3) Your Email Address:
> 4) One line Subject description:
> 5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
> 6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
>
> Email the information above and your files and photos to:
>
> pictures(at)matronics.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Greatest EBAY Item Ever. |
| From: | "Wier, Daniel C." <daniel(at)thegreatwhite.net> |
I know this is off Topic, but I figured you all would want to see this if you have
not.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item3077361636
Daniel Wier
RV-7
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum to Poly tube |
Pete,
I used the same fittings on the Aluminum (Nylo-Seal) as the poly. They are
both 1/4 O.D. and seem to grip/seal just fine.
Steve Struyk
RV-8, N842S (res.)
St. Charles, MO, Panel
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pete Howell" <pete.howell@gecko-group.com>
Subject: RV-List: Aluminum to Poly tube
>
> Hello,
>
> I'd like to run poly tubing from my pitot thru the wings. How have people
> made the conversion from 1/4 Al tube to 1/4 poly in the wings? Are there
> special fittings for this? They were not obvious in my pass thru the ACS
> catalog. I am thinking heated Pitot, so I will start with Al for the
first
> few inches.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Pete
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum to Poly tube |
Pete Howell wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> I'd like to run poly tubing from my pitot thru the wings. How have people
> made the conversion from 1/4 Al tube to 1/4 poly in the wings? Are there
> special fittings for this? They were not obvious in my pass thru the ACS
> catalog. I am thinking heated Pitot, so I will start with Al for the first
> few inches.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Pete
No fittings required. Go to an auto parts store, find some plastic
tubing with an ID of 1/4", and cut a piece three inches long; slide it
over the ends of the poly and aluminum tubing, and you are done.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 545 hrs)
http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | !New! CS props for sale |
>
>In a message dated 02/11/2004 5:53:59 PM Pacific Standard Time,
>khorton01(at)rogers.com writes:
>There is a lot more to harmonic vibration than the power that the
>prop hub was designed for. The resonant frequency of the blades vs
>the frequency spectrum produced by the engine is a much bigger issue.
>
>Just look at the FAA Type Certificate Data Sheet P-920 for the
>Hartzell props that many of us are using - you will find widely
>varying rpm restrictions for different model O-360s using the same
>hub, even though many of the engines have the same power output.
>
>Search page:
><http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgMakeModel.nsf/Mai
>nFrame?OpenFrameSet>
>
>Direct link to TCDS P-920:
>
><http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgMakeModel.nsf/0/c
>459056338a0f90a86256d600050815a/$FILE/P-920.pdf>
>
>--
>Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
>Ottawa, Canada
>http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
>
>MT Propeller had already gone through all of the analysis and testing before
>I received a propeller from them.
>
>All I did was a performance comparison flight. I wonder why do I feel like
>some of you guys like to shoot the messenger?
>
>Please remember that MT Propeller is a certified propeller manufacturer.
>They have been through all of this with every propeller they
>manufacture. They
>have specific RPM restrictions for their standard propellers on the non
>counterweighted crankshaft Lycoming 360 engine, also. Been there, done that.
>
>This one is different. It was designed specifically to not have any Mid
>Range RPM restriction on any Lycoming 360 engine. Cyclic loads,
>harmonics, the
>whole 9 yards.
>
>If you just bought a Hartzell, then I guess I can feel sorry for you.
>
>Jim Ayers
>
Les,
Sorry that you felt I was "trying to shoot the messenger". Not at
all. I do appreciate you helping to bring another prop option on to
the market. I was just trying to make sure that other readers didn't
take your statement at face value, as it gave the wrong impression
about prop-engine compatibility.
Yes, I've got a Hartzell, but I only bought one because my
prop-engine combination doesn't have any rpm restrictions. If I had
an O-360-A series, I would certainly be looking at other props like
this MT.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | static pressure line drain |
What type of device is usually used for draining moisture from the static
pressure line
before it gets to the instruments? Or, is the line periodically undone at the
low point to allow any accumulated moisture to drain?
Dale Ensing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Danielson" <johnd(at)wlcwyo.com> |
| Subject: | Aluminum to Poly tube |
Just flare the poly as you would aluminum tubing and use Aluminum AN
fittings. Treat the poly as if it was aluminum.
John L. Danielson
307-266-2524
johnd(at)wlcwyo.com
WLC, Inc.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pete Howell
Subject: RV-List: Aluminum to Poly tube
<pete.howell@gecko-group.com>
Hello,
I'd like to run poly tubing from my pitot thru the wings. How have
people
made the conversion from 1/4 Al tube to 1/4 poly in the wings? Are
there
special fittings for this? They were not obvious in my pass thru the
ACS
catalog. I am thinking heated Pitot, so I will start with Al for the
first
few inches.
Thanks,
Pete
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: !New! CS props for sale |
In a message dated 02/12/2004 6:27:42 AM Pacific Standard Time,
khorton01(at)rogers.com writes:
I was just trying to make sure that other readers didn't
take your statement at face value, as it gave the wrong impression
about prop-engine compatibility.
Yes, I've got a Hartzell, but I only bought one because my
prop-engine combination doesn't have any rpm restrictions. If I had
an O-360-A series, I would certainly be looking at other props like
this MT.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
OOPS. That's a little misleading. :-)
The Lycoming model number uses a fourth digit to identify a counterweighted
crankshaft.
While the "A" series may not have a counterweighted crankshaft in that
series, the fact that the model number starts with an "A", or "M", or whatever,
does
not identify a counterweighted crankshaft.
The specific number used for the fourth digit defines the specific
counterweights installed.
Please don't take my opinion on this, since it can be a safety of flight
issue.
Contact Lycoming at 570-323-6181 from 8AM to 5 PM (Eastern Standard Time).
Let's see. Cyclic loads, engine harmonics, engine impulse loading, propeller
blade design and natural frequencies. How far past basic physics for a brute
force 300 hp hub should I have gone before it wouldn't be misleading?
Jim Ayers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
| Subject: | Anyone want to trade for old style tips? |
I've got an unused set of the old style wing tips for my -6 that I'd
like to trade for the newer style "sheared" wingtips. My wingtips are
completely unused with no holes drilled and no cutting, just like they
came in the wing kit.
I'm looking for a straight across trade but I'll entertain any other
type of offer. Drop me an email at mike(at)bmnellis.com
Mike Nellis
RV-6 Skinning Fuselage N699BM
1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K
http://bmnellis.com
CMRA #32 RC51
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum to Poly tube |
To "sleeve" over the aluminum/nylon joint, I used 1/4" silicone hose (bought
from Spruce: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/siliconehose.php)
and little hose clamps.
http://images.rvproject.com/images/2003/20031222_silicone_joint.jpg
My pitot/static/xpdr check is on 2/23, so I'll report back if I have any
issues with that particular setup.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pete Howell" <pete.howell@gecko-group.com>
Subject: RV-List: Aluminum to Poly tube
>
> Hello,
>
> I'd like to run poly tubing from my pitot thru the wings. How have people
> made the conversion from 1/4 Al tube to 1/4 poly in the wings? Are there
> special fittings for this? They were not obvious in my pass thru the ACS
> catalog. I am thinking heated Pitot, so I will start with Al for the
first
> few inches.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Pete
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum to Poly tube |
I second this approach. Just flare the poly tubing a little more
aggressively (practice on scrap) and use an AN union. I just did a
leak/ manometer test on my pitot and it doesn't leak a drop.
Jeff Point
RV-6 very close
Milwaukee WI
John Danielson wrote:
>
>Just flare the poly as you would aluminum tubing and use Aluminum AN
>fittings. Treat the poly as if it was aluminum.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)QCBC.ORG> |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum to Poly tube |
Rubber hose works very well and is used on some certified planes-----
Original Message -----
From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Aluminum to Poly tube
>
> Pete Howell wrote:
<pete.howell@gecko-group.com>
> >
> > Hello,
> >
> > I'd like to run poly tubing from my pitot thru the wings. How have
people
> > made the conversion from 1/4 Al tube to 1/4 poly in the wings? Are
there
> > special fittings for this? They were not obvious in my pass thru the
ACS
> > catalog. I am thinking heated Pitot, so I will start with Al for the
first
> > few inches.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Pete
>
>
> No fittings required. Go to an auto parts store, find some plastic
> tubing with an ID of 1/4", and cut a piece three inches long; slide it
> over the ends of the poly and aluminum tubing, and you are done.
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 545 hrs)
> http://thervjournal.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Carbs, Turbos, and CFM... |
vansairforce
Anyone have any idea what the CFM rating on the marvel carbs are for an
O320, and or what CFM a turbo would have to be able to flow on an O320?
Anyone have knowledge of putting a turbo on an O320 out there?
-Bill VonDane
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cammie Patch" <cammie(at)sunvalley.net> |
Thanks for the reply Ron. I guess no one else has received a -7 fuse kit
lately. I finally found the inventory list, it was wrapped up with some of
the parts (the new rudder kit) in the bottom of the box. It was literally
one of the last parts to be unwrapped. I have yet to see any -7 instructions
to replace the -6 plans binder, I guess I'll have to call Van's. Maybe the
list is placed in a variety of locations depending on what options (I have a
tip up nose dragging new ruddered stepless setup.
Cammie
My pick list was stapled to the inside wall of the crate -- along with the
instructions for installing the step kit. If they are not that obvious, I'd
be asking Vans about it. I think the added pages were inside of the larger
drawings. Yep .. I just checked my photos and sure enough they are stapled
to the inside wall of the box that contains the rollbar and plans. Not sure
if this list allows attachments , but I'll try.
Ron
>
>
> I just got my fuselage kit, began constructing the huge mound of paper.
I've
> been through both boxes but I can't find the inventory list or pages to
add
> to my instruction book (I'm a rv6 to rv7 convert so I need pages for the
7).
> Can anybody tell me where to look?
> Cammie
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum to Poly tube |
Pete,
I was planning on using a short piece of rubber hose and a couple of hose clamps
as I have seen others use. But while wandering around the local ACE hardware
store I found a butt fitting that I think is used to hook up ice maker in a
frezzer. It is the kind you just push the tube in and it won't come back out
unless you hold the little ring around the tube. It has an o-ring seal and when
I tested it there were no leaks. I marked both tubes so I could see if the
fitting moved. There has been no movement in 120 hours of flying.
Hope this helps,
Alan Kritzman
Cedar Rapids, IA
RV-8
In a message dated 2/12/2004 7:36:34 AM Eastern Standard Time, "Pete Howell" <pete.howell@gecko-group.com>
writes:
>
>Hello,
>
>I'd like to run poly tubing from my pitot thru the wings. How have people
>made the conversion from 1/4 Al tube to 1/4 poly in the wings? Are there
>special fittings for this? They were not obvious in my pass thru the ACS
>catalog. I am thinking heated Pitot, so I will start with Al for the first
>few inches.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Pete
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum to Poly tube |
Pete;
The "heavy hammer" approach would be to flare the Alum. tube and install an
AN816 fitting to end up with a 1/4" pipe thread fitting which would then
take a 1/4" female pipe thread to 1/4" nylaflow fitting (not sure of a part
# but they are out there). Heavier, bulkier and more expensive than it needs
to be.
As others have said, a 3" piece of soft rubber tubing and a few bits of
locking wire will do the job equally as well.
Jim Oke
RV-6A, RV-3
Winnipeg, MB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pete Howell" <pete.howell@gecko-group.com>
Subject: RV-List: Aluminum to Poly tube
>
> Hello,
>
> I'd like to run poly tubing from my pitot thru the wings. How have people
> made the conversion from 1/4 Al tube to 1/4 poly in the wings? Are there
> special fittings for this? They were not obvious in my pass thru the ACS
> catalog. I am thinking heated Pitot, so I will start with Al for the
first
> few inches.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Pete
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net> |
| Subject: | Aluminum to Poly tube |
I am at the same point here, installing a heated Pitot and great ideas
everyone. So I flared the plastic tubing and hooked it directly to the port
on the heated Pitot and let the Pitot hang on the plastic tubing while it
sat hot for an hour or so. For me it got a little to hot, did not melt the
plastic or anything and did not slip off even with some pulling and tugging.
For me I think that I am going to run a few inches of aluminum before going
to the plastic.
Thank you everyone!
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Pete Howell
Subject: RV-List: Aluminum to Poly tube
Hello,
I'd like to run poly tubing from my pitot thru the wings. How have people
made the conversion from 1/4 Al tube to 1/4 poly in the wings? Are there
special fittings for this? They were not obvious in my pass thru the ACS
catalog. I am thinking heated Pitot, so I will start with Al for the first
few inches.
Thanks,
Pete
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: [ Jim Jewell ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
Hi Charlie,
Though I don't remember just whom it was, someone used this location and
reported (posted on the List) positive results. Based on his report I looked
into this as an alternate location.
I am told that the distance between the two Dynon units is not an issue. As
you say the nearest steel assembly is the elevator control horn section
which is just short of 20 inches away.from the Dynon unit.
I doubt that magnetic proximity problems will be an issue, I am however
prepared to deal with it if it does become an issue with this location.
I hope to have the wiring complete soon and with luck the wings will see
lift this year. Of course I have said the same for the last two years so I
guess time will tell. {[:-)!
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie Kuss Available!" <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: [ Jim Jewell ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
Available!
>
> Jim,
> Do you think it wise to install the compass modules that far aft? They
will be fairly close to the steel elevator horn weldments. Since these
weldments move during flight, this could cause rather erratic errors.
> Charlie Kuss
>
>
> >
> >
> >A new Email List Photo Share is available:
> >
> > Poster: Jim Jewell
> >
> >
> > Subject: Dynon Compass Module
> >
> >
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/jjewell@telus.net.02.11.2004/index.html
> >
> >
> > o Main Photo Share Index
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> >
> > o Submitting a Photo Share
> >
> > If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include
the
> > following information along with your email message and files:
> >
> > 1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
> > 2) Your Full Name:
> > 3) Your Email Address:
> > 4) One line Subject description:
> > 5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
> > 6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
> >
> > Email the information above and your files and photos to:
> >
> > pictures(at)matronics.com
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | need old RV-ators |
Help! For production of the next edition 24 Years of the RV-ator book, I
am in need of several copies of RV-ators from 2001 - 2003. Van is out. I'm
missing some issues, and others are needed to capture photos from back-back
pages. Here are the needed issues.
2001 - 1 copy of 1st, 2nd, 4th, 5th, 6th
2002 - 1 copy of 3rd
2003 - 2 copies of 1st & 3rd, 1 copy of 2nd.
I'll pay cash or trade (for the upcoming 24 year book, or whatever) for
reasonable condition copies of the above issues.
Please write back if you can spare this good information for a couple of
months.
Thanks,
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
800 780-4115
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: [ Jim Jewell ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
The shelf below the vertical stab will work just fine; install the
magnetometer on the forward end of the shelf. I suggest you wrap the mag
in a plastic bag in case it ever got wet.
That is where my Dynon mag is located and it is very accurate. I used a
handheld compass to check for fluctuations in that area and found none.
Sam Buchanan
============================
Jim Jewell wrote:
>
> Hi Charlie,
>
> Though I don't remember just whom it was, someone used this location and
> reported (posted on the List) positive results. Based on his report I looked
> into this as an alternate location.
> I am told that the distance between the two Dynon units is not an issue. As
> you say the nearest steel assembly is the elevator control horn section
> which is just short of 20 inches away.from the Dynon unit.
> I doubt that magnetic proximity problems will be an issue, I am however
> prepared to deal with it if it does become an issue with this location.
>
> I hope to have the wiring complete soon and with luck the wings will see
> lift this year. Of course I have said the same for the last two years so I
> guess time will tell. {[:-)!
>
> Jim
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Charlie Kuss Available!" <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: [ Jim Jewell ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
>
>
>
>
> Available!
>
>>Jim,
>> Do you think it wise to install the compass modules that far aft? They
>
> will be fairly close to the steel elevator horn weldments. Since these
> weldments move during flight, this could cause rather erratic errors.
>
>>Charlie Kuss
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: !New! CS props for sale |
All,
I don't know why anyone would be upset about the RPM restriction - I
have it and it's a NON issue. I've never found it to be an impediment to
setting the power. On the other hand the availability of a new prop is
certainly a good thing, since competition benefits us all.
Dave
LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>In a message dated 02/12/2004 6:27:42 AM Pacific Standard Time,
>khorton01(at)rogers.com writes:
>I was just trying to make sure that other readers didn't
>take your statement at face value, as it gave the wrong impression
>about prop-engine compatibility.
>
>Yes, I've got a Hartzell, but I only bought one because my
>prop-engine combination doesn't have any rpm restrictions. If I had
>an O-360-A series, I would certainly be looking at other props like
>this MT.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Danielson" <johnd(at)wlcwyo.com> |
| Subject: | Aluminum to Poly tube |
Just flare the poly as if it were aluminum tubing and use AN fittings.
John L. Danielson
307-266-2524
johnd(at)wlcwyo.com
WLC, Inc.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Oke
Subject: Re: RV-List: Aluminum to Poly tube
Pete;
The "heavy hammer" approach would be to flare the Alum. tube and install
an
AN816 fitting to end up with a 1/4" pipe thread fitting which would then
take a 1/4" female pipe thread to 1/4" nylaflow fitting (not sure of a
part
# but they are out there). Heavier, bulkier and more expensive than it
needs
to be.
As others have said, a 3" piece of soft rubber tubing and a few bits of
locking wire will do the job equally as well.
Jim Oke
RV-6A, RV-3
Winnipeg, MB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pete Howell" <pete.howell@gecko-group.com>
Subject: RV-List: Aluminum to Poly tube
<pete.howell@gecko-group.com>
>
> Hello,
>
> I'd like to run poly tubing from my pitot thru the wings. How have
people
> made the conversion from 1/4 Al tube to 1/4 poly in the wings? Are
there
> special fittings for this? They were not obvious in my pass thru the
ACS
> catalog. I am thinking heated Pitot, so I will start with Al for the
first
> few inches.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Pete
>
>
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: need old RV-ators |
Andy
I have *one* copy of each requested....sorry Van's did not sent
duplicates ;-)
You can borrow them if you wish but I would like them back in the end.
Gert
Aircraft Technical Book Company wrote:
>
> Help! For production of the next edition 24 Years of the RV-ator book, I
> am in need of several copies of RV-ators from 2001 - 2003. Van is out. I'm
> missing some issues, and others are needed to capture photos from back-back
> pages. Here are the needed issues.
>
> 2001 - 1 copy of 1st, 2nd, 4th, 5th, 6th
>
> 2002 - 1 copy of 3rd
>
> 2003 - 2 copies of 1st & 3rd, 1 copy of 2nd.
>
> I'll pay cash or trade (for the upcoming 24 year book, or whatever) for
> reasonable condition copies of the above issues.
>
> Please write back if you can spare this good information for a couple of
> months.
>
> Thanks,
> Andy
> Builder's Bookstore
> 800 780-4115
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Carbs, Turbos, and CFM... |
>
>Anyone have any idea what the CFM rating on the marvel carbs are for an
>O320, and or what CFM a turbo would have to be able to flow on an O320?
>
>Anyone have knowledge of putting a turbo on an O320 out there?
>
>-Bill VonDane
Well, you can probably just start with the engine displacement and
desired rpm and go from there. So, if you have an O-320, it'll use
about 320 cubic inches ever two revolutions. So, at 2700 rpm, you
need about 320 * 2700/2 = 432,000 cubic inches per minute, or 250
cubic feet per minute, at one atmosphere pressure.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvsearey(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Transponder Checks |
I was talking to the FAA today about changing my operating limitations and
the subject came up about who is doing my transponder checks. I told them the
name of the repair station/avionics shop and he said that they were not
authorized to do the checks and that any avionics shop would have to make an
application to the FAA for authorization and get approval to work on each specific
experimental aircraft by N number. (not just a general type) I asked him how all
the experimentals are flying around with transponders and he didn't have an
answer. I did contact the EAA and they are working on an answer. Did this FAA
guy just give me a bunch of bull or what? Does anybody have the real skinny?
Dan Decker
RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Carbs, Turbos, and CFM... |
They put turbos on Twin Commanches with 160hp 320's. they were turbo-
normalized, not turbo-charged, they were also fuel injected, which I would
think would be a big plus for any turbo'd airplane. My guess is it would
take the same carb as the non-turbo model. It might need some bigger jets
for cooling, but the CFM should be the same as at Sea Level without the
turbo. There are some turbo 182's with carbs, but I've never flown one.
These systems work great, but one decent, without rolling back the turbos
first can ruin an engine. Totally unforgiving of pilot error.
I bet an RV-9 with the longer span (than a 4/6/7/8) and a turbo would be a
FAAAAASSSSSSTTTTT airplane at FL180.
Kevin, can "cipher" a rough guess of what a RV-9 (or a 4/6/7/8 for that
matter) would do at FL180 with 120hp (75% of 160) avialable
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
"Rv8-List" , "Rv7-List" ,
"Rv6-List"
| Subject: | Wire Sizes in the wing |
SUSPICIOUS_RECIPS
Hi Guys,
Just a quick note about something that I've seen in the past month or two
that is a little confusing. I've had no less than at least 6 people ask me
for some AWG10 wire to use in their wings. Seems someone "out there" has
recommened AWG10 or AWG12 for running to the landing lights.
To anyone who is currently wiring your plane, don't fall into the trap that
some people do.....that being "if some is perfect, more must be better" -
with wire sizes, this is just a huge waste of money, weight, resources,
etc.. If the recommened wire is AWG16 or AWG18, there is NO reason to use
an AWG10.
Just a quick FYI, an AWG10 wire running the approximate length of a RVxx
wing, will carry something in the area of 800+ Watts. Who has a landing
light requiring that much power?!?! Heck, an AWG16 wire should carry well
over 180 Watts in that length.
Here's the simple breakdown before adding in resistance per 1K.
AWG10 - 70amps current carrying capacity
AWG12 - 50amps
AWG14 - 40amps
So, if you are one of those people running those huge AWG10 wires to your
wingtips, ask yourselves why?!? Two big reasons NOT to are:
1). Cost--AWG16-18 averages around $.17/ft & AWG10 is around $.50/ft (300%
higher).
2). Weight--AWG16-18 averages .005 lbs/ft, where AWG10 = .03lbs/ft.
Meaning, for an average set of wings at 2 wires x 18' = 36' x 2 wings = 72'
of wire. At AWG16 or 18 the weight would only be about 8oz's total. AWG10
would be over 2 POUNDS!!
Anyway, sorry about the rant...I just thought it might be a good idea to
bring this to the surface. Somehow, somewhere, there is a movement to put
fat wires into the wings, and I don't know why. If you are one of those
people, please enlighten me and the rest of us!
FYI, I do have AWG12 on up, and will stock some AWG10 in the future, but in
all reality, there isn't much need for it.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
http://www.steinair.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: need old RV-ators |
Andy-
I have each of the the 2001 issues you need. Would be happy to trade for a
copy of the 24 year book.
Contact me at mac39(at)e.z.net to let me know how to mail them to you.
Jim McNamara
RV-8, wings
----- Original Message -----
From: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Subject: RV-List: need old RV-ators
>
> Help! For production of the next edition 24 Years of the RV-ator book, I
> am in need of several copies of RV-ators from 2001 - 2003. Van is out.
I'm
> missing some issues, and others are needed to capture photos from
back-back
> pages. Here are the needed issues.
>
> 2001 - 1 copy of 1st, 2nd, 4th, 5th, 6th
>
> 2002 - 1 copy of 3rd
>
> 2003 - 2 copies of 1st & 3rd, 1 copy of 2nd.
>
> I'll pay cash or trade (for the upcoming 24 year book, or whatever) for
> reasonable condition copies of the above issues.
>
> Please write back if you can spare this good information for a couple of
> months.
>
> Thanks,
> Andy
> Builder's Bookstore
> 800 780-4115
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | MT Propeller weights |
Hi All,
I just weighed a few of the MT Propellers.
I just used a balance beam bathroom scale. The measured weights should be
fairly accurate.
Each propeller is a 72" diameter propeller with complete spinner assembly
installed; ready to mount on an RV with a 1 1/2" cowl spacing and a Lycoming 360
engine.
The 2 blade MTV-9-B/183-50 weighed 43 1/4 pounds.
The 3 blade MTV-12-B/183-59d weighed 46 pounds.
The aluminum blade 2 blade MTV-15-B/183-402 weighed 57 pounds.
I don't know the 2 blade Hartzell propeller weight. Unfortunately, they
normally give their propeller weight without a spinner and bulkheads.
Jim Ayers
I may be sending this a second time. My AOL was acting up again, and not
letting me send messages (maybe).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: static pressure line drain |
In a message dated 2/12/2004 6:38:57 AM Pacific Standard Time,
DWENSING(at)aol.com writes:
What type of device is usually used for draining moisture from the static
pressure line
before it gets to the instruments? Or, is the line periodically undone at the
low point to allow any accumulated moisture to drain?
The proper way is to make the low point the ports and all lines go uphill
from there. That's the way I did it..
GV (RV-6A N1GV flying 675 hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vans orders. Web or call em? |
Mike,
I use the web to order, it just seems easier.
Paul LeDoux
Falcon Field
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Brown <acrojim(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Transponder Checks |
Dan,
I suspect that you may be getting bunch of BULL. I have had two
transponder, and static systems check on my Experimental Europa. One
check was done in Billings Montana, in 2000, and two years later in 2002
at another avionics shop in Ocala Florida..
Once the a/c is licensed, why would Avionics shops need license to
inspect each different type of plane. Transponders are the same either
installed in Factory a/c or in home builts.
Just my two cents worth.
Jim Brown
RV 7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Carbs, Turbos, and CFM... |
Bill,
I'm considering doing the same thing on my -8A.
My background is engine design and development.
I worked as TCM's Senior Product Engineer and now work as Senior Project
Engineer for Borg Warner Turbo Systems. I do turbo matching every day!
I need the following to match a turbo:
Engine Speed
Displacement
Volumetric Efficiency*
BSFC* (Brake Specific Fuel Consumption) lb/bhp*hr
Power
Air filter restriction*
Exhaust restriction*
* I can guess at these based on my work at TCM
I also did the work on the TCM FADEC for the Lycoming IOF-360 that Mattituck
sells.
This is my only experience with how the Lycomig performs.
The major issue is designing a turbine wastegate to regulate the boost.
I assume you want to turbo normalize. i.e. maintain 160 bhp to 17,500ft.
Give me call and let's talk.
ERic--
GodSpeed Aviation
(828) 777-7976
Anyone have any idea what the CFM rating on the marvel carbs are for an
O320, and or what CFM a turbo would have to be able to flow on an O320?
Anyone have knowledge of putting a turbo on an O320 out there?
-Bill VonDane
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
Get some great ideas here for your sweetheart on Valentine's Day - and
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | TCM FADEC for the Lycoming |
Eric, what luck to know you were a part of that FADEC design.
I heard someone say recently that with a FADEC system installed on a O-360,
you bring that Lycosaur design up to modern times in that you can burn mogas as
well as 100LL, appreciable fuel burn rate reduction, measurably smoother,
etc, etc.
But someone else coutered with something like "maybe, but you have to more
careful with prop selection (power pulses very different?) and that's if you can
get it to work right, etc". Apparently fielded units are supposedly received
with mixed results?
Anyway, it's all new and news to me.
Does it only work with an IO setup?
Can you clear the fog up on that FADEC system and give us your inside opinion
on the practical pros and cons of buying that option and it's proper use and
care and whether it's what you would do?
If that's all spelled out somewhere then sorry for the bother and could you
send me a link? :-)
thanks,
lucky
In a message dated 2/13/2004 9:26:33 AM Eastern Standard Time,
ericparlow(at)hotmail.com writes:
also did the work on the TCM FADEC for the Lycoming IOF-360 that Mattituck
sells.
This is my only experience with how the Lycomig performs.
The major issue is designing a turbine wastegate to regulate the boost.
I assume you want to turbo normalize. i.e. maintain 160 bhp to 17,500ft.
Give me call and let's talk.
ERic--
GodSpeed Aviation
(828) 777-7976
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: MT Propeller weights |
Jim,
Thanks for all the info on these new MT props. I have a question I haven't seen
asked yet. What is the minimum diameter of these props? The Hartzell prop (not
the new blades) Vans sold for years was originally designed for Mooneys. It
was a 76 inch diameter model, with a minimum diameter of 72 inches. (A prop repair
shop could trim as much as 2" off each blade and yellow tag it) This was
the size Vans recommended. This meant that you could not safely cut down your
72 inch Hartzell, as it was already reduced by 4" for use on the RVs. What's
the deal with these MTs?
Charlie Kuss
>
>Hi All,
>
>I just weighed a few of the MT Propellers.
>
>I just used a balance beam bathroom scale. The measured weights should be
>fairly accurate.
>
>Each propeller is a 72" diameter propeller with complete spinner assembly
>installed; ready to mount on an RV with a 1 1/2" cowl spacing and a Lycoming 360
>engine.
>
>The 2 blade MTV-9-B/183-50 weighed 43 1/4 pounds.
>
>The 3 blade MTV-12-B/183-59d weighed 46 pounds.
>
>The aluminum blade 2 blade MTV-15-B/183-402 weighed 57 pounds.
>
>I don't know the 2 blade Hartzell propeller weight. Unfortunately, they
>normally give their propeller weight without a spinner and bulkheads.
>
>Jim Ayers
>I may be sending this a second time. My AOL was acting up again, and not
>letting me send messages (maybe).
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Vans orders. Web or call em? |
>
> Another possible angle is that internet sales are sale tax exempt.
>
Not so - all mail order stuff is subject to sales tax per the
recipient's state's rates, regardless of how the order was placed. That
being said, no one reports out of state internet purchases in order to
pay sales tax. Be sure, politicians are salivating at the thought of
nailing us.
The airframe kits we receive from Van's are a different animal,
discussed at length in this list, which normally must be reported and
sales tax paid thereon before the completed aircraft can be registered.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 437 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MT Propeller weights |
> Each propeller is a 72" diameter propeller with complete spinner assembly
> installed; ready to mount on an RV with a 1 1/2" cowl spacing and a
Lycoming 360
> engine.
>
> The 2 blade MTV-9-B/183-50 weighed 43 1/4 pounds.
>
> The 3 blade MTV-12-B/183-59d weighed 46 pounds.
>
> The aluminum blade 2 blade MTV-15-B/183-402 weighed 57 pounds.
>
> I don't know the 2 blade Hartzell propeller weight. Unfortunately, they
> normally give their propeller weight without a spinner and bulkheads.
Jim,
The Hartzell complete with painted spinner weighs 59 lbs. See
www.rv-8.com/Prop.htm for details and other data.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 368 hrs
www.rv-8.com
EAA Technical Counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Transponder Checks |
Before I answer this I want to say that inspite of every attempt to make
this one FAA diferent regions sometimes have different policies for a
variety of factors.
I will say that within our region the policy is thus. We do not consider
the inspection only of the pitot-static system and the transponder/encoder
to need the aircraft specific requirement for maintenance on an experiemtnal
by a repair station. That gooblety-goop being said here is what it means.
When a repair station is pereforming an inspection they are not performing
maintenance. If the repair station inspects the pitot-static and
transponder checks required by FAR 91.411 and 413 and finds a leak or
something wrong with the system they cannot fix the problem without having
that particular aircraft added to there Operations Specifications. They
would, therefore , simply tell you that the inspection failed. They can
even give you what is wrong but then you would have to figure how to get it
fixed. it may be as simple as pulling out the transponder and handing that
to them to fix (which they can do once its taken out of the aircraft) or you
may have to track down a leak in the pitot or static lines and fix it
yourself. You then would take the aircraft back to the repair Station for
the re-inspection and cetification.
Is that clear as mud. The bottom line is: The repair station may inspect
the pitot-staic system/transponder system but may not repair anything they
find wrong. This is kinda the exemption to the FAR 145 Repair Station
requiement. Inspecting is NOT maintaining.
I hope I have not confused the issue, which is even confusing to us on
occassion.
Mike Robertson
Das Fed
>From: Rvsearey(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Transponder Checks
>Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 18:40:23 EST
>
>
>I was talking to the FAA today about changing my operating limitations and
>the subject came up about who is doing my transponder checks. I told them
>the
>name of the repair station/avionics shop and he said that they were not
>authorized to do the checks and that any avionics shop would have to make
>an
>application to the FAA for authorization and get approval to work on each
>specific
>experimental aircraft by N number. (not just a general type) I asked him
>how all
>the experimentals are flying around with transponders and he didn't have an
>answer. I did contact the EAA and they are working on an answer. Did this
>FAA
>guy just give me a bunch of bull or what? Does anybody have the real
>skinny?
>
> Dan Decker
> RV-4
>
>
Create your own personal Web page with the info you use most, at My MSN.
http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200364ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Wire Sizes in the wing |
This is good info. I would like to add one more thing. AC 43.13-1B has two
very good pitures/charts that tell you exactly which wire to use for a given
application. They are fires 11-2 and 11-3. These charts whn first looked
at seem confusing but when you study them for just a few minutes they become
very clear. They will give you exactly the wire size you need for a given
voltage, amperang, and length of wire run.
Mike Robertson
>From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "Rv-List" , "Rv9-List" ,
> "Rv8-List" , "Rv7-List"
>, "Rv6-List"
>Subject: RV-List: Wire Sizes in the wing
>Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 18:32:34 -0600 SUSPICIOUS_RECIPS
>
>
>Hi Guys,
>
>Just a quick note about something that I've seen in the past month or two
>that is a little confusing. I've had no less than at least 6 people ask me
>for some AWG10 wire to use in their wings. Seems someone "out there" has
>recommened AWG10 or AWG12 for running to the landing lights.
>
>To anyone who is currently wiring your plane, don't fall into the trap that
>some people do.....that being "if some is perfect, more must be better" -
>with wire sizes, this is just a huge waste of money, weight, resources,
>etc.. If the recommened wire is AWG16 or AWG18, there is NO reason to use
>an AWG10.
>
>Just a quick FYI, an AWG10 wire running the approximate length of a RVxx
>wing, will carry something in the area of 800+ Watts. Who has a landing
>light requiring that much power?!?! Heck, an AWG16 wire should carry well
>over 180 Watts in that length.
>
>Here's the simple breakdown before adding in resistance per 1K.
>AWG10 - 70amps current carrying capacity
>AWG12 - 50amps
>AWG14 - 40amps
>
>So, if you are one of those people running those huge AWG10 wires to your
>wingtips, ask yourselves why?!? Two big reasons NOT to are:
>
>1). Cost--AWG16-18 averages around $.17/ft & AWG10 is around $.50/ft (300%
>higher).
>2). Weight--AWG16-18 averages .005 lbs/ft, where AWG10 = .03lbs/ft.
>Meaning, for an average set of wings at 2 wires x 18' = 36' x 2 wings = 72'
>of wire. At AWG16 or 18 the weight would only be about 8oz's total. AWG10
>would be over 2 POUNDS!!
>
>Anyway, sorry about the rant...I just thought it might be a good idea to
>bring this to the surface. Somehow, somewhere, there is a movement to put
>fat wires into the wings, and I don't know why. If you are one of those
>people, please enlighten me and the rest of us!
>
>FYI, I do have AWG12 on up, and will stock some AWG10 in the future, but in
>all reality, there isn't much need for it.
>
>Cheers,
>Stein Bruch
>RV6's, Minneapolis
>
>http://www.steinair.com
>
>
Plan your next US getaway to one of the super destinations here.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net> |
| Subject: | Transponder Checks |
I looked into this to some extent, basically look until you find the answer
you like!
FAR state (from memory) that the manufacture or a certified shop must
perform the by yearly inspection of the transponder with the appropriate
equipment. the transponder and primary altimeter in the aircraft must be
with in 125 feet of each other.
SO as the manufacture of the aircraft you can do the inspection and log book
entry your self as long as you can prove that the altimeter set at 29.92 and
the transponder are with in 125 feet. So set the altimeter and look on the
front of the SL-70, micro air, Garmin 330,or higher, CNX-80 with SL-70R) at
the altitude it is sending out, (it dose a BIT test to insure the antenna is
connected and altitude information is being received every time you turn it
on).
Hope I save someone a $500.00 bill.
Noel (Flame proof shirt on, just don't mess up the hair :>)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Brown
Subject: Re: RV-List: Transponder Checks
Dan,
I suspect that you may be getting bunch of BULL. I have had two
transponder, and static systems check on my Experimental Europa. One
check was done in Billings Montana, in 2000, and two years later in 2002
at another avionics shop in Ocala Florida..
Once the a/c is licensed, why would Avionics shops need license to
inspect each different type of plane. Transponders are the same either
installed in Factory a/c or in home builts.
Just my two cents worth.
Jim Brown
RV 7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vans orders. Web or call em? |
One big exception re sales tax...Colorado specifically exempts all sales
taxes on airplane parts...state law passed when trying to get United to
establish an overhaul base in Denver...that failed, but the law is still on
the books...we home-builders in Colorado pay no tax on the airplane or its
parts....purchase of a commercial plane like a Cessna etc, are fully taxed
however.
John at Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)QCBC.ORG> |
| Subject: | Re: Transponder Checks |
That might be the FAA hook line and sinker approach . In reality, a repair
station will tell you that your RV-n static check has failed. You then as
the builder can fix it and they will re-inspect and certify. At least that
what has happened in the past at my FBO several times.
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Transponder Checks
>
> Before I answer this I want to say that inspite of every attempt to make
> this one FAA diferent regions sometimes have different policies for a
> variety of factors.
>
> I will say that within our region the policy is thus. We do not consider
> the inspection only of the pitot-static system and the transponder/encoder
> to need the aircraft specific requirement for maintenance on an
experiemtnal
> by a repair station. That gooblety-goop being said here is what it means.
> When a repair station is pereforming an inspection they are not performing
> maintenance. If the repair station inspects the pitot-static and
> transponder checks required by FAR 91.411 and 413 and finds a leak or
> something wrong with the system they cannot fix the problem without having
> that particular aircraft added to there Operations Specifications. They
> would, therefore , simply tell you that the inspection failed. They can
> even give you what is wrong but then you would have to figure how to get
it
> fixed. it may be as simple as pulling out the transponder and handing
that
> to them to fix (which they can do once its taken out of the aircraft) or
you
> may have to track down a leak in the pitot or static lines and fix it
> yourself. You then would take the aircraft back to the repair Station for
> the re-inspection and cetification.
> Is that clear as mud. The bottom line is: The repair station may inspect
> the pitot-staic system/transponder system but may not repair anything they
> find wrong. This is kinda the exemption to the FAR 145 Repair Station
> requiement. Inspecting is NOT maintaining.
>
> I hope I have not confused the issue, which is even confusing to us on
> occassion.
>
> Mike Robertson
> Das Fed
>
>
> >From: Rvsearey(at)aol.com
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RV-List: Transponder Checks
> >Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 18:40:23 EST
> >
> >
> >I was talking to the FAA today about changing my operating limitations
and
> >the subject came up about who is doing my transponder checks. I told
them
> >the
> >name of the repair station/avionics shop and he said that they were not
> >authorized to do the checks and that any avionics shop would have to make
> >an
> >application to the FAA for authorization and get approval to work on each
> >specific
> >experimental aircraft by N number. (not just a general type) I asked him
> >how all
> >the experimentals are flying around with transponders and he didn't have
an
> >answer. I did contact the EAA and they are working on an answer. Did
this
> >FAA
> >guy just give me a bunch of bull or what? Does anybody have the real
> >skinny?
> >
> > Dan Decker
> > RV-4
> >
> >
>
> Create your own personal Web page with the info you use most, at My MSN.
> http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200364ave/direct/01/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Transponder Checks |
I want to know what happens if you don't have it checked and you get
caught...
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)QCBC.ORG>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Transponder Checks
That might be the FAA hook line and sinker approach . In reality, a repair
station will tell you that your RV-n static check has failed. You then as
the builder can fix it and they will re-inspect and certify. At least that
what has happened in the past at my FBO several times.
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Transponder Checks
>
> Before I answer this I want to say that inspite of every attempt to make
> this one FAA diferent regions sometimes have different policies for a
> variety of factors.
>
> I will say that within our region the policy is thus. We do not consider
> the inspection only of the pitot-static system and the transponder/encoder
> to need the aircraft specific requirement for maintenance on an
experiemtnal
> by a repair station. That gooblety-goop being said here is what it means.
> When a repair station is pereforming an inspection they are not performing
> maintenance. If the repair station inspects the pitot-static and
> transponder checks required by FAR 91.411 and 413 and finds a leak or
> something wrong with the system they cannot fix the problem without having
> that particular aircraft added to there Operations Specifications. They
> would, therefore , simply tell you that the inspection failed. They can
> even give you what is wrong but then you would have to figure how to get
it
> fixed. it may be as simple as pulling out the transponder and handing
that
> to them to fix (which they can do once its taken out of the aircraft) or
you
> may have to track down a leak in the pitot or static lines and fix it
> yourself. You then would take the aircraft back to the repair Station for
> the re-inspection and cetification.
> Is that clear as mud. The bottom line is: The repair station may inspect
> the pitot-staic system/transponder system but may not repair anything they
> find wrong. This is kinda the exemption to the FAR 145 Repair Station
> requiement. Inspecting is NOT maintaining.
>
> I hope I have not confused the issue, which is even confusing to us on
> occassion.
>
> Mike Robertson
> Das Fed
>
>
> >From: Rvsearey(at)aol.com
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RV-List: Transponder Checks
> >Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 18:40:23 EST
> >
> >
> >I was talking to the FAA today about changing my operating limitations
and
> >the subject came up about who is doing my transponder checks. I told
them
> >the
> >name of the repair station/avionics shop and he said that they were not
> >authorized to do the checks and that any avionics shop would have to make
> >an
> >application to the FAA for authorization and get approval to work on each
> >specific
> >experimental aircraft by N number. (not just a general type) I asked him
> >how all
> >the experimentals are flying around with transponders and he didn't have
an
> >answer. I did contact the EAA and they are working on an answer. Did
this
> >FAA
> >guy just give me a bunch of bull or what? Does anybody have the real
> >skinny?
> >
> > Dan Decker
> > RV-4
> >
> >
>
> Create your own personal Web page with the info you use most, at My MSN.
> http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200364ave/direct/01/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Transponder Checks |
Does it matter if I only fly VFR vs. IFR?
Dan RV-7A N766DH almost finished.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Transponder Checks |
I thought thats what I said. Maybe I was too wordy.
Mike
>From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)QCBC.ORG>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Transponder Checks
>Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 11:21:03 -0600
>
>
>That might be the FAA hook line and sinker approach . In reality, a repair
>station will tell you that your RV-n static check has failed. You then as
>the builder can fix it and they will re-inspect and certify. At least that
>what has happened in the past at my FBO several times.
>
>Cy Galley
>Editor, EAA Safety Programs
>cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Transponder Checks
>
>
> >
> > Before I answer this I want to say that inspite of every attempt to make
> > this one FAA diferent regions sometimes have different policies for a
> > variety of factors.
> >
> > I will say that within our region the policy is thus. We do not
>consider
> > the inspection only of the pitot-static system and the
>transponder/encoder
> > to need the aircraft specific requirement for maintenance on an
>experiemtnal
> > by a repair station. That gooblety-goop being said here is what it
>means.
> > When a repair station is pereforming an inspection they are not
>performing
> > maintenance. If the repair station inspects the pitot-static and
> > transponder checks required by FAR 91.411 and 413 and finds a leak or
> > something wrong with the system they cannot fix the problem without
>having
> > that particular aircraft added to there Operations Specifications. They
> > would, therefore , simply tell you that the inspection failed. They can
> > even give you what is wrong but then you would have to figure how to get
>it
> > fixed. it may be as simple as pulling out the transponder and handing
>that
> > to them to fix (which they can do once its taken out of the aircraft) or
>you
> > may have to track down a leak in the pitot or static lines and fix it
> > yourself. You then would take the aircraft back to the repair Station
>for
> > the re-inspection and cetification.
> > Is that clear as mud. The bottom line is: The repair station may
>inspect
> > the pitot-staic system/transponder system but may not repair anything
>they
> > find wrong. This is kinda the exemption to the FAR 145 Repair Station
> > requiement. Inspecting is NOT maintaining.
> >
> > I hope I have not confused the issue, which is even confusing to us on
> > occassion.
> >
> > Mike Robertson
> > Das Fed
> >
> >
> > >From: Rvsearey(at)aol.com
> > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > >Subject: RV-List: Transponder Checks
> > >Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 18:40:23 EST
> > >
> > >
> > >I was talking to the FAA today about changing my operating limitations
>and
> > >the subject came up about who is doing my transponder checks. I told
>them
> > >the
> > >name of the repair station/avionics shop and he said that they were not
> > >authorized to do the checks and that any avionics shop would have to
>make
> > >an
> > >application to the FAA for authorization and get approval to work on
>each
> > >specific
> > >experimental aircraft by N number. (not just a general type) I asked
>him
> > >how all
> > >the experimentals are flying around with transponders and he didn't
>have
>an
> > >answer. I did contact the EAA and they are working on an answer. Did
>this
> > >FAA
> > >guy just give me a bunch of bull or what? Does anybody have the real
> > >skinny?
> > >
> > > Dan Decker
> > > RV-4
> > >
> > >
> >
> > Create your own personal Web page with the info you use most, at My MSN.
> > http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200364ave/direct/01/
> >
> >
>
>
Get some great ideas here for your sweetheart on Valentine's Day - and
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Transponder Checks |
If you get caught you could be violated (read that as fined or have license
suspended). FAR 91.411 and 91.423 very clearly start out as "No person may"
operate or use unless the inspections required by those parts are conducted
and found to comply with the appropriate appendix of FAR 43.
Lets avoid going there. I hate being the bad guy.
Mike Robertson
>From: Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Transponder Checks
>Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 11:11:26 -0700
>
>
>I want to know what happens if you don't have it checked and you get
>caught...
>
>-Bill
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)QCBC.ORG>
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Transponder Checks
>
>
>That might be the FAA hook line and sinker approach . In reality, a repair
>station will tell you that your RV-n static check has failed. You then as
>the builder can fix it and they will re-inspect and certify. At least that
>what has happened in the past at my FBO several times.
>
>Cy Galley
>Editor, EAA Safety Programs
>cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Transponder Checks
>
>
> >
> > Before I answer this I want to say that inspite of every attempt to make
> > this one FAA diferent regions sometimes have different policies for a
> > variety of factors.
> >
> > I will say that within our region the policy is thus. We do not
>consider
> > the inspection only of the pitot-static system and the
>transponder/encoder
> > to need the aircraft specific requirement for maintenance on an
>experiemtnal
> > by a repair station. That gooblety-goop being said here is what it
>means.
> > When a repair station is pereforming an inspection they are not
>performing
> > maintenance. If the repair station inspects the pitot-static and
> > transponder checks required by FAR 91.411 and 413 and finds a leak or
> > something wrong with the system they cannot fix the problem without
>having
> > that particular aircraft added to there Operations Specifications. They
> > would, therefore , simply tell you that the inspection failed. They can
> > even give you what is wrong but then you would have to figure how to get
>it
> > fixed. it may be as simple as pulling out the transponder and handing
>that
> > to them to fix (which they can do once its taken out of the aircraft) or
>you
> > may have to track down a leak in the pitot or static lines and fix it
> > yourself. You then would take the aircraft back to the repair Station
>for
> > the re-inspection and cetification.
> > Is that clear as mud. The bottom line is: The repair station may
>inspect
> > the pitot-staic system/transponder system but may not repair anything
>they
> > find wrong. This is kinda the exemption to the FAR 145 Repair Station
> > requiement. Inspecting is NOT maintaining.
> >
> > I hope I have not confused the issue, which is even confusing to us on
> > occassion.
> >
> > Mike Robertson
> > Das Fed
> >
> >
> > >From: Rvsearey(at)aol.com
> > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > >Subject: RV-List: Transponder Checks
> > >Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 18:40:23 EST
> > >
> > >
> > >I was talking to the FAA today about changing my operating limitations
>and
> > >the subject came up about who is doing my transponder checks. I told
>them
> > >the
> > >name of the repair station/avionics shop and he said that they were not
> > >authorized to do the checks and that any avionics shop would have to
>make
> > >an
> > >application to the FAA for authorization and get approval to work on
>each
> > >specific
> > >experimental aircraft by N number. (not just a general type) I asked
>him
> > >how all
> > >the experimentals are flying around with transponders and he didn't
>have
>an
> > >answer. I did contact the EAA and they are working on an answer. Did
>this
> > >FAA
> > >guy just give me a bunch of bull or what? Does anybody have the real
> > >skinny?
> > >
> > > Dan Decker
> > > RV-4
> > >
> > >
> >
> > Create your own personal Web page with the info you use most, at My MSN.
> > http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200364ave/direct/01/
> >
> >
>
>
Keep up with high-tech trends here at "Hook'd on Technology."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Transponder Checks |
Yes. If you only fly VFR you don't have to do the Pitot-Static inspection
every two years. But there is a but here. If you have a transponder and
altitude encoder installed you have to do those inspecitons every two years.
That requires the static system to be checked for leaks. It is not much
more to do the whole check. Don't get me wrong, thee is more to it, but
once you're there why not do the rest for not a lot more expense.
Mike Robertson
>From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Transponder Checks
>Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 13:20:36 EST
>
>
>Does it matter if I only fly VFR vs. IFR?
>
>Dan RV-7A N766DH almost finished.
>
>
Click here for a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Transponder Checks |
Mike,
You've NEVER been the "bad guy". I know my thoughts are echoed by a lot
of other folks when I say "You've been a blessing" when it comes to helping
us understand the FARS/Regs; and thereby enlightened us on how to avoid
violating them. Which I'm sure makes us all a heck of a lot safer in the
long run. Thanks,
Chuck
*this one can be "archived"
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Robertson <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Transponder Checks
>
> If you get caught you could be violated (read that as fined or have
license
> suspended). FAR 91.411 and 91.423 very clearly start out as "No person
may"
> operate or use unless the inspections required by those parts are
conducted
> and found to comply with the appropriate appendix of FAR 43.
>
> Lets avoid going there. I hate being the bad guy.
>
> Mike Robertson
>
>
> >From: Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Transponder Checks
> >Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 11:11:26 -0700
> >
> >
> >I want to know what happens if you don't have it checked and you get
> >caught...
> >
> >-Bill
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)QCBC.ORG>
> >To:
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Transponder Checks
> >
> >
> >
> >That might be the FAA hook line and sinker approach . In reality, a
repair
> >station will tell you that your RV-n static check has failed. You then as
> >the builder can fix it and they will re-inspect and certify. At least
that
> >what has happened in the past at my FBO several times.
> >
> >Cy Galley
> >Editor, EAA Safety Programs
> >cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
> >To:
> >Subject: RE: RV-List: Transponder Checks
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Before I answer this I want to say that inspite of every attempt to
make
> > > this one FAA diferent regions sometimes have different policies for a
> > > variety of factors.
> > >
> > > I will say that within our region the policy is thus. We do not
> >consider
> > > the inspection only of the pitot-static system and the
> >transponder/encoder
> > > to need the aircraft specific requirement for maintenance on an
> >experiemtnal
> > > by a repair station. That gooblety-goop being said here is what it
> >means.
> > > When a repair station is pereforming an inspection they are not
> >performing
> > > maintenance. If the repair station inspects the pitot-static and
> > > transponder checks required by FAR 91.411 and 413 and finds a leak or
> > > something wrong with the system they cannot fix the problem without
> >having
> > > that particular aircraft added to there Operations Specifications.
They
> > > would, therefore , simply tell you that the inspection failed. They
can
> > > even give you what is wrong but then you would have to figure how to
get
> >it
> > > fixed. it may be as simple as pulling out the transponder and handing
> >that
> > > to them to fix (which they can do once its taken out of the aircraft)
or
> >you
> > > may have to track down a leak in the pitot or static lines and fix it
> > > yourself. You then would take the aircraft back to the repair Station
> >for
> > > the re-inspection and cetification.
> > > Is that clear as mud. The bottom line is: The repair station may
> >inspect
> > > the pitot-staic system/transponder system but may not repair anything
> >they
> > > find wrong. This is kinda the exemption to the FAR 145 Repair Station
> > > requiement. Inspecting is NOT maintaining.
> > >
> > > I hope I have not confused the issue, which is even confusing to us on
> > > occassion.
> > >
> > > Mike Robertson
> > > Das Fed
> > >
> > >
> > > >From: Rvsearey(at)aol.com
> > > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > > >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > > >Subject: RV-List: Transponder Checks
> > > >Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 18:40:23 EST
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >I was talking to the FAA today about changing my operating
limitations
> >and
> > > >the subject came up about who is doing my transponder checks. I told
> >them
> > > >the
> > > >name of the repair station/avionics shop and he said that they were
not
> > > >authorized to do the checks and that any avionics shop would have to
> >make
> > > >an
> > > >application to the FAA for authorization and get approval to work on
> >each
> > > >specific
> > > >experimental aircraft by N number. (not just a general type) I asked
> >him
> > > >how all
> > > >the experimentals are flying around with transponders and he didn't
> >have
> >an
> > > >answer. I did contact the EAA and they are working on an answer.
Did
> >this
> > > >FAA
> > > >guy just give me a bunch of bull or what? Does anybody have the real
> > > >skinny?
> > > >
> > > > Dan Decker
> > > > RV-4
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > Create your own personal Web page with the info you use most, at My
MSN.
> > > http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200364ave/direct/01/
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
> Keep up with high-tech trends here at "Hook'd on Technology."
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)excelgeo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Transponder Checks |
That's a hypothetical question, correct? :-)
Bill VonDane wrote:
>
>I want to know what happens if you don't have it checked and you get
>caught...
>
>-Bill
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)QCBC.ORG>
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Transponder Checks
>
>
>That might be the FAA hook line and sinker approach . In reality, a repair
>station will tell you that your RV-n static check has failed. You then as
>the builder can fix it and they will re-inspect and certify. At least that
>what has happened in the past at my FBO several times.
>
>Cy Galley
>Editor, EAA Safety Programs
>cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Transponder Checks
>
>
>
>
>>
>>Before I answer this I want to say that inspite of every attempt to make
>>this one FAA diferent regions sometimes have different policies for a
>>variety of factors.
>>
>>I will say that within our region the policy is thus. We do not consider
>>the inspection only of the pitot-static system and the transponder/encoder
>>to need the aircraft specific requirement for maintenance on an
>>
>>
>experiemtnal
>
>
>>by a repair station. That gooblety-goop being said here is what it means.
>>When a repair station is pereforming an inspection they are not performing
>>maintenance. If the repair station inspects the pitot-static and
>>transponder checks required by FAR 91.411 and 413 and finds a leak or
>>something wrong with the system they cannot fix the problem without having
>>that particular aircraft added to there Operations Specifications. They
>>would, therefore , simply tell you that the inspection failed. They can
>>even give you what is wrong but then you would have to figure how to get
>>
>>
>it
>
>
>>fixed. it may be as simple as pulling out the transponder and handing
>>
>>
>that
>
>
>>to them to fix (which they can do once its taken out of the aircraft) or
>>
>>
>you
>
>
>>may have to track down a leak in the pitot or static lines and fix it
>>yourself. You then would take the aircraft back to the repair Station for
>>the re-inspection and cetification.
>>Is that clear as mud. The bottom line is: The repair station may inspect
>>the pitot-staic system/transponder system but may not repair anything they
>>find wrong. This is kinda the exemption to the FAR 145 Repair Station
>>requiement. Inspecting is NOT maintaining.
>>
>>I hope I have not confused the issue, which is even confusing to us on
>>occassion.
>>
>>Mike Robertson
>>Das Fed
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>From: Rvsearey(at)aol.com
>>>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>>Subject: RV-List: Transponder Checks
>>>Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 18:40:23 EST
>>>
>>>
>>>I was talking to the FAA today about changing my operating limitations
>>>
>>>
>and
>
>
>>>the subject came up about who is doing my transponder checks. I told
>>>
>>>
>them
>
>
>>>the
>>>name of the repair station/avionics shop and he said that they were not
>>>authorized to do the checks and that any avionics shop would have to make
>>>an
>>>application to the FAA for authorization and get approval to work on each
>>>specific
>>>experimental aircraft by N number. (not just a general type) I asked him
>>>how all
>>>the experimentals are flying around with transponders and he didn't have
>>>
>>>
>an
>
>
>>>answer. I did contact the EAA and they are working on an answer. Did
>>>
>>>
>this
>
>
>>>FAA
>>>guy just give me a bunch of bull or what? Does anybody have the real
>>>skinny?
>>>
>>> Dan Decker
>>> RV-4
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>Create your own personal Web page with the info you use most, at My MSN.
>>http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200364ave/direct/01/
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Dynon - Rethink Internal Battery |
I have been flying my Dynon for about 30 hours now (3 under the hood) and
love it. I just ran into a problem that may not be wide spread but I will
share it. While flying yesterday, I stopped to fuel up and when I
restarted, the Dynon stuck on the load screen.....the dreaded blue screen
with "Dynon" on it. Since I have the internal battery, I could not turn it
off to "reboot." I flew home and let it sit overnight causing the internal
battery to drain down until the unit shut off. When I powered it up again,
it worked fine.
I spoke with them this morning and am sending my unit in for inspection.
(What a PITA!!!!) I asked if there was any way to hook up a "reboot" switch
to the Dsub so I could do a reboot in the field. The answer was no.
I am seriously considering removing my internal battery to have a reboot
capability.
Another issue I was having with the unit is that upon bootup, I had missing
characters on the display. This would get resolved by restarting it.
Like I said, I love the unit. Flying under the hood was a pleasure.
Ross Mickey
N9PT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Transponder Checks |
I just helped out our local Transponder Certifier Guy here with an -8, and
there are some very specialized tools he had for setting the encoder, and
checking the pitot and static systems...
We had to adjust both the high and low pots on the encoder.....and you need
to set these with the encoder thinking that it is actually at the high and
low altitudes, so you need another machine that fools the encoder via the
static port...
He charges $200, but he checks everything, is very exact in his encoder
settings, and if something is wrong he will let you fix it right there while
he's doing the tests...
Oh, and he's building an RV-4...
-Bill VonDane
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RE: TCM FADEC for the Lycoming |
See
www.fadec.com
Then let the quiestions begin!
ERic--
GodSpeed Aviation
----Original Message Follows----
From: RV8ter(at)aol.com
Subject: TCM FADEC for the Lycoming
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 09:40:11 EST
Eric, what luck to know you were a part of that FADEC design.
I heard someone say recently that with a FADEC system installed on a O-360,
you bring that Lycosaur design up to modern times in that you can burn mogas
as
well as 100LL, appreciable fuel burn rate reduction, measurably smoother,
etc, etc.
But someone else coutered with something like "maybe, but you have to more
careful with prop selection (power pulses very different?) and that's if you
can
get it to work right, etc". Apparently fielded units are supposedly
received
with mixed results?
Anyway, it's all new and news to me.
Does it only work with an IO setup?
Can you clear the fog up on that FADEC system and give us your inside
opinion
on the practical pros and cons of buying that option and it's proper use and
care and whether it's what you would do?
If that's all spelled out somewhere then sorry for the bother and could you
send me a link? :-)
thanks,
lucky
In a message dated 2/13/2004 9:26:33 AM Eastern Standard Time,
ericparlow(at)hotmail.com writes:
also did the work on the TCM FADEC for the Lycoming IOF-360 that Mattituck
sells.
This is my only experience with how the Lycomig performs.
The major issue is designing a turbine wastegate to regulate the boost.
I assume you want to turbo normalize. i.e. maintain 160 bhp to 17,500ft.
Give me call and let's talk.
ERic--
GodSpeed Aviation
(828) 777-7976
Create your own personal Web page with the info you use most, at My MSN.
http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200364ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAVAWALKER(at)aol.com |
Fitting the slider canopy to the frame. At the rear center line the
plexiglass appears to flare upward for a distance of approximately 2 inches from
the
inside ( toward the front ) of the rear mold line which is 3/4 inches wide. It
would seem that if the canopy were cut anywhere in this upward sloping area it
would cause the aft skirts to angle upward and away from the aft top fuselage
skin rather than rather than conform to the taper of the aft fuselage.
Any advice on how far forward of this rear mold line to cut will be greatly
appreciated.
Dale Walker
RV 7
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon - Rethink Internal Battery |
Ross Mickey wrote:
>
> I have been flying my Dynon for about 30 hours now (3 under the hood) and
> love it. I just ran into a problem that may not be wide spread but I will
> share it. While flying yesterday, I stopped to fuel up and when I
> restarted, the Dynon stuck on the load screen.....the dreaded blue screen
> with "Dynon" on it. Since I have the internal battery, I could not turn it
> off to "reboot." I flew home and let it sit overnight causing the internal
> battery to drain down until the unit shut off. When I powered it up again,
> it worked fine.
>
> I spoke with them this morning and am sending my unit in for inspection.
> (What a PITA!!!!) I asked if there was any way to hook up a "reboot" switch
> to the Dsub so I could do a reboot in the field. The answer was no.
>
> I am seriously considering removing my internal battery to have a reboot
> capability.
>
> Another issue I was having with the unit is that upon bootup, I had missing
> characters on the display. This would get resolved by restarting it.
>
> Like I said, I love the unit. Flying under the hood was a pleasure.
>
> Ross Mickey
> N9PT
The possibility of some sort of scenario that you described, plus the
fact that my plane is wired per "Lectric Bob's dual bus architecture is
the reason I decided not to use the internal battery in my Dynon. If
there is an electrical fault during flight serious enough to require
shutting off the master solenoid, I will turn on the essential bus which
should provide sufficient battery power to allow a safe conclusion to
the flight. It is my opinion that having the internal battery offers
more potential problems than solutions (and unnecessary expense) to
those of us using the dual bus systems.
Ross, the fault you experienced sounds a lot like what I saw when I was
messing around with the remote mag during some troubleshooting for
Dynon. There was a scenario where I could get the system to hang during
software upgrade since I was powering the remote mag on a separate feed
from the EFIS. Do you have the remote magnetometer? Is it on a different
power bus from the Dynon? Could it be that the mag remained powered up
during the fuel stop which caused a crash when the EFIS came back on line?
If not, you probably just have a sick unit and I am sure a healthy one
is on the way to you.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Transponder Checks |
Does adjusting the encoder integrated into the Dynon present any special
challenges?
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bill VonDane [mailto:bill(at)vondane.com]
> Sent: Friday, February 13, 2004 3:33 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Transponder Checks
>
>
>
> I just helped out our local Transponder Certifier Guy here
> with an -8, and there are some very specialized tools he had
> for setting the encoder, and checking the pitot and static systems...
>
> We had to adjust both the high and low pots on the
> encoder.....and you need to set these with the encoder
> thinking that it is actually at the high and low altitudes,
> so you need another machine that fools the encoder via the
> static port...
>
> He charges $200, but he checks everything, is very exact in
> his encoder settings, and if something is wrong he will let
> you fix it right there while he's doing the tests...
>
> Oh, and he's building an RV-4...
>
> -Bill VonDane
> EAA Tech Counselor
> RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
> www.vondane.com
> www.creativair.com
> www.epanelbuilder.com
>
>
> ===========
> Matronics Forums.
> ===========
> ===========
> ===========
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
I placed the plastic upside down on the bench and slid the slider frame
fore and aft to find the best fit for the center tube to the glass and
then marked the position of the front bow. With the slider back on the
fuselage, I put the glass on top and lined up the mark again. That told
me about where I wanted it to end up. I trimmed just inside the skin
line at the back and then started trimming the front a little at a time
until it sat down on the frame. At first, it looked a little iffy at the
rear as you described, but worked out fine.
Ed Holyoke
6 canopy skirts
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
DAVAWALKER(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Canopy
Fitting the slider canopy to the frame. At the rear center line the
plexiglass appears to flare upward for a distance of approximately 2
inches from the
inside ( toward the front ) of the rear mold line which is 3/4 inches
wide. It
would seem that if the canopy were cut anywhere in this upward sloping
area it
would cause the aft skirts to angle upward and away from the aft top
fuselage
skin rather than rather than conform to the taper of the aft fuselage.
Any advice on how far forward of this rear mold line to cut will be
greatly
appreciated.
Dale Walker
RV 7
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dynon - Rethink Internal Battery |
If this continues to be a problem why not splice a switch into the internal
battery lead and bring the wire out through the cover?
Bob Trumpfheller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
| Subject: | Transponder Checks |
Consistent with Bill's comments ....
A few months back we were having "encoder problems". The local ATC got to
the point of asking "do you have Mode C in that thing??". Well that was not
good ... to get a reputation for not being in "compliance" and have all the
controllers know you by voice (name) and/or N-number. So off to the major
FBO to get this taken care of.
Results ...
After I had taken the transponder out and then the encoder out and had each
bench tested, I found both to be just fine. So I then took the airplane over
and the following occurred.
1. We found the slightly bent pins (2) in the transponder tray and their A&P
fixed them. These had cause SOME altitudes to not be reported correctly.
They also fixed a broken GPS connector. Note though .. there were *two* sets
of people working here. One was the "altimeter inspection crew" and the
other was the "A&P fix stuff crew". And oh, there was me to do stuff as
required.
2. A full "IFR" check was done on the whole system with the "special
increments of 500 feet (up to a magic point and then in increments of 1000
feet) and then back down in increments of 1000 feet or something to that
efffect. Each step required recording what the altimeter said it thought the
plane was at vs what the "special equipment" was saying the plane really
WOULD HAVE BEEN AT. These had to be within (I think) 1xx feet of each other.
Of course this process required providing the correct "static" pressure for
each altitude.
3. A "leak rate" on airspeed was assessed in this testing as well. (Pitot
pressure supplied)
All of this probably cost about $200 (I think).
Oh, I almost forgot. It was also deemed very important to make sure the
transponder was seeing 13.8-14.2 volts as opposed to the approximately 12
that the battery would provide. This had to do with some measurement of the
transponder that I forget.
In any case, as mentioned elsewhere, the full test is not a simple 10 minute
process. Given what was I done, I think it was a $200 or so that was well
spent as I now am a little less likely to be cruising along unknowingly at
the wrong and thereby same altitude as someone coming in the opposite
direction.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill VonDane
> Sent: Friday, February 13, 2004 3:33 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Transponder Checks
>
>
> I just helped out our local Transponder Certifier Guy here with an -8, and
> there are some very specialized tools he had for setting the encoder, and
> checking the pitot and static systems...
>
> We had to adjust both the high and low pots on the
> encoder.....and you need
> to set these with the encoder thinking that it is actually at the high and
> low altitudes, so you need another machine that fools the encoder via the
> static port...
>
> He charges $200, but he checks everything, is very exact in his encoder
> settings, and if something is wrong he will let you fix it right
> there while
> he's doing the tests...
>
> Oh, and he's building an RV-4...
>
> -Bill VonDane
> EAA Tech Counselor
> RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
> www.vondane.com
> www.creativair.com
> www.epanelbuilder.com
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Walker" <ron(at)walker.net> |
In the Spruce catalog, I've noticed propellors by the Prince Aircraft
Company ... It's a wood core with composite covering designed in such a way
that it high power settings (takeoff, climb) it adjusts in pitch to increase
RPM. Then in cruise, it opens up to a cruise pitch. Says that the pitch
change is 4" between climb/cruise just by the design/construction of it.
While there is no RV application listed, it is approved for an O-360
powerplant.
Does anyone have any experience using these props ? Any comments ? (novice
prop guy here)
Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Global QCS Propeller issues |
Just thought I'd tell in brief the story of my experiences with the
ground-adjustable fixed-pitch Quasi-Constant-Speed (QCS) carbon composite propeller
from Global Aircraft of Starkville, MS as installed on my 150 hp Lycoming O-320
powered RV-4.
A use of the Archive search engine will bring up some some info about this
prop (not all of which is correct -at least about the propeller version I
received), as well as an article on propellers in Sport Aviation last year... but
in
brief...
Ordered propeller November 25, 2002. Received it quite some time later.
Installed propeller as per the manufacturer's instructions and proceded to test
it.
In a the first few hours of testing I was disappointed, as it was my
*opinion* that the propeller was no faster or better performing than my Pacesetter
68x69 that it replaced -despite the claims made by the manufacturer. I was fairly
careful in the way I kept track of speeds -using an online utility/program to
determine the true airspeed based on flying different headings and recording
GPS ground speeds and then mathmatically figuring the winds aloft out of the
results (see www.reacomp.com for more on this and to try this applet for
yourself).
After less than 5 hours of operation (which obviously didn't allow for much
in depth testing), I had problems with the paint flaking off the blades for no
reason and a then short few seconds flying through light rain at reduced power
removed much more of the paint. I removed the prop to inspect it at this
point -thoroughly cleaning it, and found cracks at the root ends of both blades
in
the metal (aluminum) reinforced area that clamps into the hub block. I have
pictures -showing the cracks with magnification only and with dye-penetrant as
well. They could easily be felt with the fingernails.
The propeller was shipped back to the manufacturer on 07/10/2003 according to
my records, and phone conversations shortly thereafter with the manufacturer
confirmed that it had arrived and that they were going to employ a
metallurgist to inspect the prop and get back to me with the results. Long story
short, I
had a phone conversation with Mike Smith Sr. of Global Aircraft this past
week (week of February 8th, 2004 -over 6 months after the propeller shipped) and
was told the metallurgist had not yet inspected the propeller. I was denied
any refund of my money when I asked and was not told when I could expect to
received a repaired propeller either.
I am out the $3465.00 I paid for the propeller, and do not have the propeller
itself either at this point, and my last conversation with Mr. Smith ended up
with him hanging the phone up on me or somehow otherwise suddenly losing the
connection.
I felt it was my duty as a fellow pilot and experimental operator to post
this opinion/report and would be interested in knowing whether or not any other
list subscribers have had experiences with this company and what those
experiences are/were.
Thanks,
Scott
Incidently, my RV-4 placed first in class in the 2003 EAA Airventure Cup
-with the old pacesetter wood prop installed again.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rich Crosley" <dirtrider(at)qnet.com> |
| Subject: | Extra part, HELP |
I am building an RV-8, installing engine and canopy, finish stuff. In a box
I found the fuselage gusset bag with a one piece of aluminum left and after
going through the drawings several times I can't find where it is used.
Maybe it's not used on a tail dragger! Anyway it's marked "AS3-125 2.625
x 3.5" . If anyone can remember this guy I'd appreciate it. Which drawing?
There is a picture of it on that little gusset sheet, but no info.
Thanks,
Rich Crosley
Palmdale, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Extra part, HELP |
taking a stab here....is that the piece which you can use as a filler
between the front spar of the vertical stab and the plate that bolts to
the front spar of the horizontal stab to hold the vert spar....
Rich Crosley wrote:
>
> I am building an RV-8, installing engine and canopy, finish stuff. In a box
> I found the fuselage gusset bag with a one piece of aluminum left and after
> going through the drawings several times I can't find where it is used.
> Maybe it's not used on a tail dragger! Anyway it's marked "AS3-125 2.625
> x 3.5" . If anyone can remember this guy I'd appreciate it. Which drawing?
> There is a picture of it on that little gusset sheet, but no info.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Rich Crosley
> Palmdale, CA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim and Bev Cone" <jimnbev(at)olypen.com> |
If you check the archives you will find Jim Cone's one man installation instructions
that are very helpful. I know this because I wrote them and have fitted
two canopies by myself and helped on several others. The short answer as to
where to cut the canopy is to turn the canopy upside down and lay the sliding
part of the frame in the "tub". It will fit well in only one place. Mark this
with a marker, remove the frame and cut away. I am just at this point on my
new 7A and plan to use the instructions again.
Jim Cone
3-peat offender
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
Jim: curious - will this technique work for the tip-up configuration, with appropriate
interfering side pieces removed? I may need to do a retrofit one day
if a crack in mine decides to propagtate. So far this has happened only once
in 360 hrs, but one never knows.
-Bill B
-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
>
> If you check the archives you will find Jim Cone's one man installation
instructions that are very helpful. I know this because I wrote them and
have fitted two canopies by myself and helped on several others. The short
answer as to where to cut the canopy is to turn the canopy upside down and
lay the sliding part of the frame in the "tub". It will fit well in only
one place. Mark this with a marker, remove the frame and cut away. I am
just at this point on my new 7A and plan to use the instructions again.
>
> Jim Cone
> 3-peat offender
Jim,
That is an interesting way of doing it. Would this method for the for RV-4
do you think?
Doug Weiler
RV-4 N722DW... about to install a new canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dwight Frye <dwight(at)openweave.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Proseal (Cartridge) Question |
Dick,
Thanks! I had not thought about freezing ... but now that you mention
the idea, it makes a lot of sense.
-- Dwight
On Sat Feb 14 15:11:19 2004, Richard E. Tasker wrote :
>
>
>Freeze it. It will last a week or more then. Just thaw it out for a
>few minutes when you are ready to use it. I did this with 30 cc
>syringes for my tanks and it worked great.
>
>Dick Tasker, RV9A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PeterHunt1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Static pressure line drain |
Dale asked about installing a drain in the static line.
Even with a tail dragger I had a low spot in my static line just in front of
my instrument panel. At that point I installed a "T" fitting in my static
line with a three inch vertical tube (to catch the water) coming down from the
"T." At the bottom of this line I installed a "radiator drain" type valve like
on a car radiator. I found my drain valve at Home Depot in the plumbing
department where they sell all those small parts for copper tubing.
Pete Hunt
Clearwater, FL
RV-6, Installing engine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Static pressure line drain |
Hi Pete,
How often have you found it necessary to use the drain so far?
Do you have a separate fitting at a higher location for alternate static
air.
I am being told that condensation gets in the line and represents a blocking
hazard due to freezing and also a moisture threat to instruments. I don't
doubt this happens but I do wonder how commonly it actually requires
attention.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: <PeterHunt1(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Static pressure line drain
>
> Dale asked about installing a drain in the static line.
>
> Even with a tail dragger I had a low spot in my static line just in front
of
> my instrument panel. At that point I installed a "T" fitting in my static
> line with a three inch vertical tube (to catch the water) coming down from
the
> "T." At the bottom of this line I installed a "radiator drain" type valve
like
> on a car radiator. I found my drain valve at Home Depot in the plumbing
> department where they sell all those small parts for copper tubing.
>
> Pete Hunt
> Clearwater, FL
> RV-6, Installing engine
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RE: TCM FADEC for the Lycoming |
Well, it unfortunately didn't really get specific on most of my questions
and probably raised as many questions as it answers.
The http://www.fadec.com/overview.html page seems to be cut off at the
bottom and missing information - it ends in mid sentence.
Probably near the top of questions would be why would Mattituck sell this
with an O-360 since it seems to be designed to work with Fuel Injection and
I'm not sure it would be worth it on anything else.
Actually, I'm not sure it looks like it would be worth it at all. Did I
miss some type of cost analysis comparison betweein cost/op cost of standard
vs generic electronic ignition vs FADEC system? I didn't see a specific
discussion on how engine overhauls showed any difference in part
wear/longevity, any of that type of specific info a homebuilder could relate
to.
Any links to folks who retrofitted to FADEC on RVs? Testimonials would
probable be he deciding factor for me. Any 8's flying with this?
Installation pictures availabe?
Thanks again,
Lucky
>From: "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: RV8ter(at)aol.com, rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: RE: TCM FADEC for the Lycoming
>Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 16:33:48 -0500
>
>
>See
>www.fadec.com
>Then let the quiestions begin!
>
>ERic--
>GodSpeed Aviation
>
>
>----Original Message Follows----
>From: RV8ter(at)aol.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: TCM FADEC for the Lycoming
>Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 09:40:11 EST
>
>Eric, what luck to know you were a part of that FADEC design.
>
>I heard someone say recently that with a FADEC system installed on a O-360,
>you bring that Lycosaur design up to modern times in that you can burn
>mogas
>as
>well as 100LL, appreciable fuel burn rate reduction, measurably smoother,
>etc, etc.
>
>But someone else coutered with something like "maybe, but you have to more
>careful with prop selection (power pulses very different?) and that's if
>you
>can
>get it to work right, etc". Apparently fielded units are supposedly
>received
>with mixed results?
>
>Anyway, it's all new and news to me.
>
>Does it only work with an IO setup?
>
>Can you clear the fog up on that FADEC system and give us your inside
>opinion
>on the practical pros and cons of buying that option and it's proper use
>and
>care and whether it's what you would do?
>
>If that's all spelled out somewhere then sorry for the bother and could you
>send me a link? :-)
>
>thanks,
>lucky
>
>In a message dated 2/13/2004 9:26:33 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>ericparlow(at)hotmail.com writes:
>also did the work on the TCM FADEC for the Lycoming IOF-360 that Mattituck
>sells.
>This is my only experience with how the Lycomig performs.
>
>The major issue is designing a turbine wastegate to regulate the boost.
>I assume you want to turbo normalize. i.e. maintain 160 bhp to 17,500ft.
>
>Give me call and let's talk.
>
>ERic--
>GodSpeed Aviation
>(828) 777-7976
>
>Create your own personal Web page with the info you use most, at My MSN.
>http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200364ave/direct/01/
>
>
Optimize your Internet experience to the max with the new MSN Premium
Internet Software. http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200359ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon - Rethink Internal Battery |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
> Do you have the remote magnetometer?
Yes
>Is it on a different power bus from the Dynon?
No. When I got the internal battery, I took the Dynon off my essential bus.
I will now be putting it back on the essential.
>Could it be that the mag remained powered up during the fuel stop which
caused a crash when the EFIS came back on line?
No. When I shut down, I turned off the power that is common to both units.
Thge only odd thing that happened before startup was that I accidentally
turned the main power switch on while I was rummaging around in the plane,
I MAY have turned the power off while the boot screen was on. When I turned
the main power on, it switched to internal power and the blue screen
remained. I did not think of this before I sent the unit in for repairs.
In any case, I will be doing without the internal battery.
> If not, you probably just have a sick unit and I am sure a healthy one is
on the way to you.
I hope so. The weather is supposed to break on Thursday.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon - Rethink Internal Battery |
----- Original Message -----
From: <N67BT(at)aol.com>
> If this continues to be a problem why not splice a switch into the
internal
> battery lead and bring the wire out through the cover?
>
> Bob Trumpfheller
I have not looked at the wiring of the internal battery so I don't know if
this is easy to do. I don't think I would want to dig into the guts of the
unit and mess with this especially since I have a main bus/essential bus
with SD-8 backup. The internal battery was a fourth line of defense that
now seems to be a liability.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WCruiser1(at)aol.com |
Please cancel my enrollment in the RV list as I have changed internet providers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "sdavis12" <sdavis12(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Log Book entries |
Paul,
I think I have fixed the problem but I have sent the new exe to 1 of the
people that has had the file conversion error, I want to be sure it works
before I send it up to the website. I will do this as soon as I hear from
him.
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Log Book entries
>
> This document is available in the new version of Kitlog Pro, or it is
> available here:
>
>
http://www2.faa.gov/certification/aircraft/av-info/dst/amateur/8130.2chap4se
c7.pdf
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A Sold
> RV-10 Soon
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Log Book entries
>
>
> >
> >
> > FAA order 8130.2E(or latest rev) chapter 7 section 134 gives you the
> wording
> > for exp phase and aerobatic logbook entries. This should match what your
> > limitations say as well since this order was intended to drive the
wording
> > used in the limitations.
> >
> > W
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | SourceForSmallCopperTs |
Has anyone else had trouble finding copper T sweat fittings for 1/8 inch outside
diameter copper tubing? I'm using this in my primer system. I've tried plumbing
and refrigeration companies & both types say the 1/4 inch outside diameter
is the smallest they or others in their line of business can obtain. I'm located
in the Washington, DC area.
Dave Reel - RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: SourceForSmallCopperTs |
DAVID REEL wrote:
>
>Has anyone else had trouble finding copper T sweat fittings for 1/8 inch outside
diameter copper tubing? I'm using this in my primer system. I've tried plumbing
and refrigeration companies & both types say the 1/4 inch outside diameter
is the smallest they or others in their line of business can obtain. I'm
located in the Washington, DC area.
>
>Dave Reel - RV8A
>
Hmmm. Never thought of sweat-solder for small tubing ..... they make
nice compression fittings for that. If you still want to go that route,
though, You might investigate making your own Ts from small brass tubing
and sweating those to the copper lines.
Silver solder should be stronger than the tin/lead type, and adding a
triangle to stiffen the joint might be productive.
Linn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert E. Lynch" <rv6lynch(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: TCM FADEC for the Lycoming |
Lucky
Yes to all the above.
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Neil McLeod <neilmcleod(at)direcway.com> |
I found bits and pieces of these instructions in the archives but
appearently not the whole thing. Does anybody have a full copy they could
post or maybe get Doug to put up on his site?
Neil McLeod
7 QB FWF and Finishing
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim and Bev Cone" <jimnbev(at)olypen.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy
>
> If you check the archives you will find Jim Cone's one man installation
instructions that are very helpful. I know this because I wrote them and
have fitted two canopies by myself and helped on several others. The short
answer as to where to cut the canopy is to turn the canopy upside down and
lay the sliding part of the frame in the "tub". It will fit well in only
one place. Mark this with a marker, remove the frame and cut away. I am
just at this point on my new 7A and plan to use the instructions again.
>
> Jim Cone
> 3-peat offender
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | SourceForSmallCopperTs |
I got all compression fittings needed from Wicks. I'm using 1/8 copper
tube for MAP input.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: DAVID REEL [mailto:dreel(at)cox.net]
> Sent: Sunday, February 15, 2004 12:40 PM
> To: rvlist
> Subject: RV-List: SourceForSmallCopperTs
>
>
>
> Has anyone else had trouble finding copper T sweat fittings
> for 1/8 inch outside diameter copper tubing? I'm using this
> in my primer system. I've tried plumbing and refrigeration
> companies & both types say the 1/4 inch outside diameter is
> the smallest they or others in their line of business can
> obtain. I'm located in the Washington, DC area.
>
> Dave Reel - RV8A
>
>
> ===========
> Matronics Forums.
> ===========
> ===========
> ===========
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon - Rethink Internal Battery |
Ross Mickey wrote:
>>Could it be that the mag remained powered up during the fuel stop which
>
> caused a crash when the EFIS came back on line?
>
> No. When I shut down, I turned off the power that is common to both units.
> Thge only odd thing that happened before startup was that I accidentally
> turned the main power switch on while I was rummaging around in the plane,
> I MAY have turned the power off while the boot screen was on. When I turned
> the main power on, it switched to internal power and the blue screen
> remained. I did not think of this before I sent the unit in for repairs.
> In any case, I will be doing without the internal battery.
Ross, I really suspect a power event such as you described caused the
crash of your Dynon. That may explain why it worked fine after a clean
reboot. Even though messing around with the power supply *shouldn't*
have caused a problem, all of us with any computer experience know that
interrupting power during boot up is asking for trouble.! :-)
This really is similar to the scenario I saw when I managed to hang the
EFIS while monkeying around with power feeds during boot up.
I second your decision to ditch the internal battery. In systems where
we already have emergency power capabilities, the battery is an
unnecessary complication.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim and Bev Cone" <jimnbev(at)olypen.com> |
Listers, I have gotten so may requests for the instructions that I wrote in my
newsletter that I compiled them into one large article with pictures. The file
is over 600kb. I will post it to the list if it is OK with Matt to post such
a large article.
Jim Cone
3-peat offender
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bryan hooks" <hook3607(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | RE: TCM FADEC for the Lycoming |
Good questions. Another that I have had is...I want to do aerobatics,
and therefore want a hydraulic prop-governor. The last time I looked
into this, the FADEC only worked with and electric prop-gov. Wonder if
that has changed yet.
Bryan Hooks
RV-7A Fuselage
Knoxville, TN
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of lucky macy
Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: TCM FADEC for the Lycoming
Well, it unfortunately didn't really get specific on most of my
questions
and probably raised as many questions as it answers.
The http://www.fadec.com/overview.html page seems to be cut off at the
bottom and missing information - it ends in mid sentence.
Probably near the top of questions would be why would Mattituck sell
this
with an O-360 since it seems to be designed to work with Fuel Injection
and
I'm not sure it would be worth it on anything else.
Actually, I'm not sure it looks like it would be worth it at all. Did I
miss some type of cost analysis comparison betweein cost/op cost of
standard
vs generic electronic ignition vs FADEC system? I didn't see a specific
discussion on how engine overhauls showed any difference in part
wear/longevity, any of that type of specific info a homebuilder could
relate
to.
Any links to folks who retrofitted to FADEC on RVs? Testimonials would
probable be he deciding factor for me. Any 8's flying with this?
Installation pictures availabe?
Thanks again,
Lucky
>From: "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: RV8ter(at)aol.com, rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: RE: TCM FADEC for the Lycoming
>Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 16:33:48 -0500
>
>
>See
>www.fadec.com
>Then let the quiestions begin!
>
>ERic--
>GodSpeed Aviation
>
>
>----Original Message Follows----
>From: RV8ter(at)aol.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: TCM FADEC for the Lycoming
>Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 09:40:11 EST
>
>Eric, what luck to know you were a part of that FADEC design.
>
>I heard someone say recently that with a FADEC system installed on a
O-360,
>you bring that Lycosaur design up to modern times in that you can burn
>mogas
>as
>well as 100LL, appreciable fuel burn rate reduction, measurably
smoother,
>etc, etc.
>
>But someone else coutered with something like "maybe, but you have to
more
>careful with prop selection (power pulses very different?) and that's
if
>you
>can
>get it to work right, etc". Apparently fielded units are supposedly
>received
>with mixed results?
>
>Anyway, it's all new and news to me.
>
>Does it only work with an IO setup?
>
>Can you clear the fog up on that FADEC system and give us your inside
>opinion
>on the practical pros and cons of buying that option and it's proper
use
>and
>care and whether it's what you would do?
>
>If that's all spelled out somewhere then sorry for the bother and could
you
>send me a link? :-)
>
>thanks,
>lucky
>
>In a message dated 2/13/2004 9:26:33 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>ericparlow(at)hotmail.com writes:
>also did the work on the TCM FADEC for the Lycoming IOF-360 that
Mattituck
>sells.
>This is my only experience with how the Lycomig performs.
>
>The major issue is designing a turbine wastegate to regulate the boost.
>I assume you want to turbo normalize. i.e. maintain 160 bhp to
17,500ft.
>
>Give me call and let's talk.
>
>ERic--
>GodSpeed Aviation
>(828) 777-7976
>
>Create your own personal Web page with the info you use most, at My
MSN.
>http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200364ave/direct/01/
>
>
Optimize your Internet experience to the max with the new MSN Premium
Internet Software.
http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200359ave/direct/01/
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dynon - Rethink Internal Battery |
>> If this continues to be a problem why not splice a switch into the
>>internal
>> battery lead and bring the wire out through the cover?
>>
>> Bob Trumpfheller
>I have not looked at the wiring of the internal battery so I don't know if
>this is easy to do. I don't think I would want to dig into the guts of the
>unit and mess with this especially since I have a main bus/essential bus
>with SD-8 backup. The internal battery was a fourth line of defense that
>now seems to be a liability.
>
>Ross
Agreed, but in a situation where the internal battery is the only backup, it
has a valid purpose.
I have replaced the battery in my Dynon and actually don't remember if there
is room for a switch modification. It IS rather tight in there. It could
probably be done with a solder/heatshrink splice or a connector mod. I will look
into this next week, as I would like to do this. If anyone shows an interest
I will post my conclusion.
Bob Trumpfheller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Bill,
not sure the standard M/S carb is OK to pressurize, or at least the gaskets,
particularly the one under the brass bump that covers the bowl vent screen.
That's not to say they haven't done it, for example the Bell 47 G-3 with a
VO-435 has one in the military version, but most turbos use F/I or a
pressure carb.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Top mounted antenna |
Fellow Listers:
One of our local RV-7A pilots who is not on the list would like me to post a
question. His airplane is equipped with a Garmin 530. He originally had a
bent whip antenna mounted on the bottom of the airplane and he experienced
significant reception problems with this antenna and its location (mounted
essentially on the belly in line with the flaps). He would lose reception
when pointed at stations straight ahead of him. All cables and grounds were
checked and found satisfactory. He then changed to a straight antenna and
the problem went away.
But he still has a problem with his #2 radio which is connected to an
internal antenna in one wing tip. It is basically useless with a 5 miles
transmission and reception range. He needs to install another antenna for
this #2 radio. His question is whether anyone has had any experience with a
top mounted antenna mounted roughly halfway between the canopy and the
vertical fin. Specifically any RF interference with such an installation.
Many thanks
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
N722DW, RV-4, 100+ hours, cracked canopy awaiting parts
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon - Rethink Internal Battery |
I can't remember - did you think to pull the internal battery and reboot
before you sent it back, or has that remedy come to light after this thread
developed?
Would that, in fact, prevent having to send the unit back to be reset? Or,
is the internal battery too hard for the owner to access?
David
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon - Rethink Internal Battery
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
>
> > Do you have the remote magnetometer?
>
> Yes
>
> >Is it on a different power bus from the Dynon?
>
> No. When I got the internal battery, I took the Dynon off my essential
bus.
> I will now be putting it back on the essential.
>
> >Could it be that the mag remained powered up during the fuel stop which
> caused a crash when the EFIS came back on line?
>
> No. When I shut down, I turned off the power that is common to both
units.
> Thge only odd thing that happened before startup was that I accidentally
> turned the main power switch on while I was rummaging around in the
plane,
> I MAY have turned the power off while the boot screen was on. When I
turned
> the main power on, it switched to internal power and the blue screen
> remained. I did not think of this before I sent the unit in for repairs.
> In any case, I will be doing without the internal battery.
>
> > If not, you probably just have a sick unit and I am sure a healthy one
is
> on the way to you.
>
> I hope so. The weather is supposed to break on Thursday.
>
> Ross
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Static pressure line drain |
This is the kind of thing you find out "by experience", on your specific
airplane and operating conditions: You set up a fairly frequent/short
interval to open the drain - and note if you found "nothing", "a drop or
two", etc. If you find nothing, then extend the inspection interval.
The military jets I flew all had drains and Tech Order procedures for
purging the lines. It is a more "real" problem for those who routinely
climb above the freezing level (sfc in winter to 15,000' in summer) and stay
there long enough for stuff to "cold soak".
- As someone else said (Sam?), best design is - "The tubing runs ONLY
UPHILL from the static source - and, by same logic, from the pitot tube.
- The pitot tube and its associated tubing back through wing to
instrument panel would seem to be a problem on RVs. I haven't got that far
yet - I've basically decided that I'll have a manual valve that I can
"close", located between by airspeed indicator and the drain point/blowout
point - Close the valve to protect the ASI, then blow dry air through the
pitot line from very near that valve back out to the pitot tube. Could have
a paper towel secured to end of pitot tube to catch expelled moisture, if
any, to be able to note in your maintenance long if you did or did not get
any moisture out.
- Probably, because it is not a "show stopper" to lose indicated
airspeed, I suspect most such "purging" is done "as required" by an actual
event of frozen line. That seems the most practical - so disregard the
comment above about "inspection intervals" - unless you really want to
know - or unless you suspect your lines have a kink or some such design that
you EXPECT to trap moisture.
David
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Static pressure line drain
>
> Hi Pete,
>
> How often have you found it necessary to use the drain so far?
> Do you have a separate fitting at a higher location for alternate static
> air.
> I am being told that condensation gets in the line and represents a
blocking
> hazard due to freezing and also a moisture threat to instruments. I don't
> doubt this happens but I do wonder how commonly it actually requires
> attention.
>
> Jim in Kelowna
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <PeterHunt1(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Static pressure line drain
>
>
> >
> > Dale asked about installing a drain in the static line.
> >
> > Even with a tail dragger I had a low spot in my static line just in
front
> of
> > my instrument panel. At that point I installed a "T" fitting in my
static
> > line with a three inch vertical tube (to catch the water) coming down
from
> the
> > "T." At the bottom of this line I installed a "radiator drain" type
valve
> like
> > on a car radiator. I found my drain valve at Home Depot in the plumbing
> > department where they sell all those small parts for copper tubing.
> >
> > Pete Hunt
> > Clearwater, FL
> > RV-6, Installing engine
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PeterHunt1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Static pressure line drain |
Jim, to answer your questions -- (1) I am not flying yet, so I don't know
how frequently a static line must be drained. However, I suspect it will be an
extremely, extremely rare occasion. (2) No, a second valve for alternative
static air is not necessary. If my static system freezes, for example, and I
need a source for cockpit static air, I just open my "radiator type valve"
located under the instrument panel.
Pete Hunt
Clearwater, FL
Unpacked my new 0-360-A1A today
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Top mounted antenna |
Doug Weiler wrote:
His question is whether anyone has had any experience with a
> top mounted antenna mounted roughly halfway between the canopy and the
> vertical fin. Specifically any RF interference with such an installation.
The com antenna mounted on the turtle deck of my RV-6 has always worked
very nicely for me.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6 545 hrs)
http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Top mounted antenna |
If you have the tilt up canopy, mount it as far forward as possible.
It's just about the best location on the airframe.
With a sliding canopy, the COM antenna usually gets mounted too close to the
vertical stabilizer.
Jim Ayers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Dynon - Rethink Internal Battery |
It's accessible. I swapped out my battery out for a new one months ago
when they had the battery problem. It's not hard.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: David Carter [mailto:dcarter(at)datarecall.net]
> Sent: Sunday, February 15, 2004 10:11 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon - Rethink Internal Battery
>
>
>
> I can't remember - did you think to pull the internal battery
> and reboot before you sent it back, or has that remedy come
> to light after this thread developed?
>
> Would that, in fact, prevent having to send the unit back to
> be reset? Or, is the internal battery too hard for the owner
> to access?
>
> David
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon - Rethink Internal Battery
>
>
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
> >
> > > Do you have the remote magnetometer?
> >
> > Yes
> >
> > >Is it on a different power bus from the Dynon?
> >
> > No. When I got the internal battery, I took the Dynon off my
> > essential
> bus.
> > I will now be putting it back on the essential.
> >
> > >Could it be that the mag remained powered up during the fuel stop
> > >which
> > caused a crash when the EFIS came back on line?
> >
> > No. When I shut down, I turned off the power that is common to both
> units.
> > Thge only odd thing that happened before startup was that I
> > accidentally turned the main power switch on while I was rummaging
> > around in the
> plane,
> > I MAY have turned the power off while the boot screen was
> on. When I
> turned
> > the main power on, it switched to internal power and the
> blue screen
> > remained. I did not think of this before I sent the unit in for
> > repairs. In any case, I will be doing without the internal battery.
> >
> > > If not, you probably just have a sick unit and I am sure
> a healthy
> > > one
> is
> > on the way to you.
> >
> > I hope so. The weather is supposed to break on Thursday.
> >
> > Ross
> >
> >
>
>
> ===========
> Matronics Forums.
> ===========
> ===========
> ===========
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Top mounted antenna |
While on this subject has anyone else ever tested the performance of an ELT
antenna mounted under the fiberglass fairing between the rudder and horizontal.
I made some measurements with my MFJ-259B antenna analyzer and found that,
when mounted there, there was an extremely high SWR and no resonance indicated.
(I am a ham operator.) Therefore, the antenna will radiate very poorly.
For that reason I am seriously considering putting the ELT antenna on the turtle
deck. When it is in the clear, the SWR measures about 1.5:1 which is
acceptable.
Does anyone know about how serious the additional drag would be?
In a message dated 2/15/04 11:25:50 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
sbuc(at)hiwaay.net writes:
> Doug Weiler wrote:
>
>
> His question is whether anyone has had any experience with a
> >top mounted antenna mounted roughly halfway between the canopy and the
> >vertical fin. Specifically any RF interference with such an installation.
>
>
> The com antenna mounted on the turtle deck of my RV-6 has always worked
> very nicely for me.
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6 545 hrs)
> http://thervjournal.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Evenson" <revenson(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Experience w/Monroy ATD-200? |
Have recently become aware of the Monroy ATD-200 traffic detection unit. If anyone
out there has experience with this or similar units, I'd sure like to hear
some opinions. Thanks. Roger.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon - Rethink Internal Battery |
All,
It is not hard to swap out the battery, and it would not be difficult to put
a switch in the battery line that made the battery power controllable. 1
switch, 2 feet of wire and some heat shrink. Cut a small notch in the
battery cover and away you go!
VFR folks can do what ever they want, instruments are a luxury not a
necessity for VFR, but I have been in an airplane IFR at night with no
power but a flashlight, and it is a lonesome feeling. I have to take issue
with those who are quick to remove the battery in an IFR airplane. If your
electric T&B is the back up to your Dynon no matter how many busses you
have, they still come back to the same battery. The internal battery in the
Dynon is one of it's most important features to me.
I have had not trouble with lockups, but I like the idea of having a switch
on it. You could leave the switch on or off, it would not matter, but you
could do a reboot then if it locked up. The old addage is true, "If you
want to sell it to a pilot, put a switch on it, if it has a light and a
bell, they can't resist!"
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon - Rethink Internal Battery |
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net>
>
> I can't remember - did you think to pull the internal battery and reboot
> before you sent it back, or has that remedy come to light after this
thread
> developed?
>
> Would that, in fact, prevent having to send the unit back to be reset?
Or,
> is the internal battery too hard for the owner to access?
>
> David
Pulling the internal battery on my installed unit is impossible without
removing the unit from the panel.
The problem was solved prior to sending the unit back by letting the
internal battery drain. When the battery was dead, the unit shut off. When
I turned the unit on via the master switch, it worked fine. I sent it back
because they wanted to look at it and it had another problem. Occasionally,
it would boot up with missing characters in many of the fields. This would
be remedied by turning the unit off. I also wanted to return the internal
battery.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Com Antenna Placement |
| From: | tacaruth(at)ralcorp.com |
02/16/2004 09:27:21 AM
Hi All,
I am building an RV-7A and would like to place a bent whip com antenna on
the belly. Where would be the best place for this? Would behind the
baggage compartment be too far aft?
Thanks in advance
Tom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Experience w/Monroy ATD-200? |
Roger Evenson wrote:
>
> Have recently become aware of the Monroy ATD-200 traffic detection unit. If
anyone out there has experience with this or similar units, I'd sure like to hear
some opinions. Thanks. Roger.
I've used the Surecheck TPAS unit (rx-110 I think is the model).
It will tell you if there is traffic nearby, but don't expect the
digital distance readout to be terribly accurate. IMHO, that doesn't
matter that much, as I just want to know when somehting is within
5 miles of me to get more of my attention outside.
I picked it up refurbished from Ebay for about $200, so the price is right.
Surecheck has newer models out now (VPX) that will tell you
difference in altitude from your present position. Of course,
it cost more money, too (about $1100 I think).
-Dj
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Com Antenna Placement |
>I am building an RV-7A and would like to place a bent whip com antenna on
>the belly. Where would be the best place for this? Would behind the
>baggage compartment be too far aft?
>
>Thanks in advance
>Tom
Consider putting the com antenna in the elevator push/pull tube tunnel that
passes through the baggage compartment. I did that to avoid possible
interference with the other stuff (strobe power supply, ELT, etc.) which I mounted
behind the baggage compartment area. This also seems like a good
asthetics/performance compromise. We shall see.
Bob Trumpfheller
RV7A
Wiring in progress
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
| Subject: | SPRAYLAT & unmask |
I would NOT fiberglass over masking tape. Do whatever is necessary to
remove it, including sandpaper. You want to take some fine sandpaper
(320 Grit or so) and scuff the plexiglass where you're going to
fiberglass for a good bond. I have no experience with unmask.
For areas that I want to protect during fiberglassing, I use 3M metal
tape. Make sure you remove the tape before the Fiberglass cures.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
Subject: Re: RV-List: SPRAYLAT & unmask
How interesting. I was just looking at this product this morning while
trying to find something to take the masking tape off my canopy. Now I
have
two questions:
Can Spray Lat be used to mask off the area while fiberglassing?
Will the unmask product remove the masking tape that has been on there
for
way too long? I have some masking tape on the front edge where the
canopy
meets the fuse. I am going to fiberglass over that area so won't see
the
results but don't want to cause a reaction.
Any body with experience in this product as well? Please share.
Tim Bryan
RV-6 N616TB
.
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Experience w/Monroy ATD-200? |
I've flown with one and have one in my yet-to-fly RV-8. I like it so
far and it seems to be worth the investment. They have a newer model
out, the ATD-300. http://www.monroyaero.com/trafficwatch.html
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Roger Evenson [mailto:revenson(at)comcast.net]
> Sent: Monday, February 16, 2004 9:38 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Experience w/Monroy ATD-200?
>
>
>
> Have recently become aware of the Monroy ATD-200 traffic
> detection unit. If anyone out there has experience with this
> or similar units, I'd sure like to hear some opinions.
> Thanks. Roger.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Experience w/Monroy ATD-200? |
What does the unit do with multiple targets? Thanks
Glenn in Tucson, -9A wings, fuselage ordered.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Experience w/Monroy ATD-200?
>
> I've flown with one and have one in my yet-to-fly RV-8. I like it so
> far and it seems to be worth the investment. They have a newer model
> out, the ATD-300. http://www.monroyaero.com/trafficwatch.html
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Roger Evenson [mailto:revenson(at)comcast.net]
> > Sent: Monday, February 16, 2004 9:38 AM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV-List: Experience w/Monroy ATD-200?
> >
> >
> >
> > Have recently become aware of the Monroy ATD-200 traffic
> > detection unit. If anyone out there has experience with this
> > or similar units, I'd sure like to hear some opinions.
> > Thanks. Roger.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: SPRAYLAT & unmask |
> Will the unmask product remove the masking tape that has been on there for
> way too long? I have some masking tape on the front edge where the canopy
Tim,
I had this problem (left masking tape on there for about a year, nasty mess
taking it off). Kerosene ended up being the winner-winner chicken dinner
for getting all the masking tape residue off pretty easily.
Best of luck,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Grigson <iflyhawaii2(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Jim Cone and Eric Newton's Canopy Instructions |
Listers:
Please help me find a current source of these highly reccomended RV6 slider canopy
instructions.
After one hour plus or false trails I have been unable to unearth an active web
source.
Mahalo,
Greg Grigson
Honolulu
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: SPRAYLAT & unmask |
Bruce Gray wrote:
>
>I would NOT fiberglass over masking tape.
>
Amen! The tape will cause separations in the fiberglas later on.
> Do whatever is necessary to
>remove it, including sandpaper. You want to take some fine sandpaper
>(320 Grit or so) and scuff the plexiglass where you're going to
>fiberglass for a good bond. I have no experience with unmask.
>
Kerosene will soften the worst dried out masking tape. Lay a piecr of
terry cloth over the masking tape and soak with the kerosene. Keep it wet.
Linn
>For areas that I want to protect during fiberglassing, I use 3M metal
>tape. Make sure you remove the tape before the Fiberglass cures.
>
>Bruce
>www.glasair.org
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: SPRAYLAT & unmask
>
>
>How interesting. I was just looking at this product this morning while
>trying to find something to take the masking tape off my canopy. Now I
>have
>two questions:
>
>Can Spray Lat be used to mask off the area while fiberglassing?
>
>Will the unmask product remove the masking tape that has been on there
>for
>way too long? I have some masking tape on the front edge where the
>canopy
>meets the fuse. I am going to fiberglass over that area so won't see
>the
>results but don't want to cause a reaction.
>
>Any body with experience in this product as well? Please share.
>Tim Bryan
>RV-6 N616TB
>
>
>.
>
>
>=
>=
>=
>=
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Brown" <nightmare(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Sam James wheel pants |
Listers
I have a pair of Sam James "high speed wheel pants" that I will either sell or
trade for Van's newer round one. I'll trade for a set that is new or have already
been installed, or sell for 100 bucks. These are new and never installed or
worked on.
Thanks!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon - Rethink Internal Battery |
I don't have my unit yet, but are you sure
they don't have some secret combination of
pressing buttons that does a reboot? Something
like pressing all four buttons for five
seconds, or first two for five seconds, then
second two for five seconds? Or ...
Mickey
> I have had not trouble with lockups, but I like the idea of having a switch
>on it.
--
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon - Rethink Internal Battery |
Mickey Coggins wrote:
>
>
> I don't have my unit yet, but are you sure
> they don't have some secret combination of
> pressing buttons that does a reboot? Something
> like pressing all four buttons for five
> seconds, or first two for five seconds, then
> second two for five seconds? Or ...
>
The Dynon engineer with whom I was working never mentioned such a
sequence. Interrupting power is the only method of rebooting of which I
am aware.
Matter of fact, when the voltage drops way down during starting the
engine, the EFIS can reboot.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Experience w/Monroy ATD-200? |
Glenn Brasch wrote:
>
> What does the unit do with multiple targets? Thanks
> Glenn in Tucson, -9A wings, fuselage ordered.
Both the Surecheck RX-110 and the Monroy ATD-200
pick the closest target, I believe. I think the newer
models may be able to track more than one, but I am not sure.
-Dj
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <Tim(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Re: SPRAYLAT & unmask |
Thanks for all the responses. I have no plans to cover the tape with
fiberglass, but definately don't want to screw up the plexi trying to get it
off. If others have had success with kerosene or goo off, I will give them
a try.
I have not heard of 3M metal tape so will look into that also. I was
planning to just mask it off right before glassing and then remove before
completely cured. Not about to leave tape on again. Maybe 3M metal is the
answer.
Thanks again
Tim Bryan
-------Original Message-------
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Monday, February 16, 2004 12:29:05 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: SPRAYLAT & unmask
Bruce Gray wrote:
>
>I would NOT fiberglass over masking tape.
>
Amen! The tape will cause separations in the fiberglas later on.
> Do whatever is necessary to
>remove it, including sandpaper. You want to take some fine sandpaper
>(320 Grit or so) and scuff the plexiglass where you're going to
>fiberglass for a good bond. I have no experience with unmask.
>
Kerosene will soften the worst dried out masking tape. Lay a piecr of
terry cloth over the masking tape and soak with the kerosene. Keep it wet.
Linn
>For areas that I want to protect during fiberglassing, I use 3M metal
>tape. Make sure you remove the tape before the Fiberglass cures.
>
>Bruce
>www.glasair.org
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: SPRAYLAT & unmask
>
>
>How interesting. I was just looking at this product this morning while
>trying to find something to take the masking tape off my canopy. Now I
>have
>two questions:
>
>Can Spray Lat be used to mask off the area while fiberglassing?
>
>Will the unmask product remove the masking tape that has been on there
>for
>way too long? I have some masking tape on the front edge where the
>canopy
>meets the fuse. I am going to fiberglass over that area so won't see
>the
>results but don't want to cause a reaction.
>
>Any body with experience in this product as well? Please share.
>Tim Bryan
>RV-6 N616TB
>
>
>.
>
>
>=
>=
>=
>=
>
>
>
>
.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pauls(at)kc.rr.com" <pauls(at)kc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Jim Cone and Eric Newton's Canopy Instructions |
Hey Greg,
Take a glance at my site:
http://home.kc.rr.com/pauljana/finish/finish1.htm
Paul Stratman
RV-6A 'Taylor Maid'
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: SPRAYLAT & unmask |
Tim Bryan wrote:
>
>Thanks for all the responses. I have no plans to cover the tape with
>fiberglass, but definately don't want to screw up the plexi trying to get it
>off. If others have had success with kerosene or goo off, I will give them
>a try.
>
>I have not heard of 3M metal tape so will look into that also. I was
>planning to just mask it off right before glassing and then remove before
>completely cured. Not about to leave tape on again. Maybe 3M metal is the
>answer.
>
>Thanks again
>Tim Bryan
>
>-------Original Message-------
>
>From: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: Monday, February 16, 2004 12:29:05 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: SPRAYLAT & unmask
>
>
>Bruce Gray wrote:
>
>
>
>>
>>I would NOT fiberglass over masking tape.
>>
>>
>>
>Amen! The tape will cause separations in the fiberglas later on.
>
>
>
>>Do whatever is necessary to
>>remove it, including sandpaper. You want to take some fine sandpaper
>>(320 Grit or so) and scuff the plexiglass where you're going to
>>fiberglass for a good bond. I have no experience with unmask.
>>
>>
>>
>Kerosene will soften the worst dried out masking tape. Lay a piecr of
>terry cloth over the masking tape and soak with the kerosene. Keep it wet.
>Linn
>
>
>
>>For areas that I want to protect during fiberglassing, I use 3M metal
>>tape. Make sure you remove the tape before the Fiberglass cures.
>>
>>Bruce
>>www.glasair.org
>>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
>>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: SPRAYLAT & unmask
>>
>>
>>
>>How interesting. I was just looking at this product this morning while
>>trying to find something to take the masking tape off my canopy. Now I
>>have
>>two questions:
>>
>>Can Spray Lat be used to mask off the area while fiberglassing?
>>
>>Will the unmask product remove the masking tape that has been on there
>>for
>>way too long? I have some masking tape on the front edge where the
>>canopy
>>meets the fuse. I am going to fiberglass over that area so won't see
>>the
>>results but don't want to cause a reaction.
>>
>>Any body with experience in this product as well? Please share.
>>Tim Bryan
>>RV-6 N616TB
>>
You can ge metal tape at Home depot or Lowes. Look in the paint section.
Linn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Kraut <engalt(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Engine drawings (Off topic) |
Can anyone tell me where I can get some CAD drawings of popular aircraft engines?
I am working on a design for a 4 place aircraft and I need some engine drawings
for my initial shape and sizing drawings. I would prefer 3D cad drawings,
but I have not been able to find and dimensioned drawings at all yet so I will
take whatever I can get for right now. I am in particular looking for a TSIO-550
as a maximum size engine, but would like an O-360 and O-320 also.
Brian Kraut
engalt(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
| Subject: | Engine drawings (Off topic) |
Lycoming has large dimensioned installation drawings for any of their
engines you want. Cost is $40 per drawing, (4x12 foot drawing, multiple
views).
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Kraut
Subject: RV-List: Engine drawings (Off topic)
Can anyone tell me where I can get some CAD drawings of popular aircraft
engines? I am working on a design for a 4 place aircraft and I need
some engine drawings for my initial shape and sizing drawings. I would
prefer 3D cad drawings, but I have not been able to find and dimensioned
drawings at all yet so I will take whatever I can get for right now. I
am in particular looking for a TSIO-550 as a maximum size engine, but
would like an O-360 and O-320 also.
Brian Kraut
engalt(at)earthlink.net
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: SPRAYLAT & unmask |
Instead of kerosene, use my wife's favorite solvent -- lamp oil. It has no
smell and other than that, I think it is just like kerosene.
I used lamp oil for compass fluid in rebuilding an old compass I got at a fly
mart -- much cheaper than A/C Spruce. There was a compass factory near here
where my Mom worked, and kerosene was what they used for compass fluid. Ah, I
got off the topic!
Dan RV-7A N766DH almost done
In a message dated 2/16/04 2:01:00 PM US Eastern Standard Time, dan@rvprojec
t.com writes:
> Subj: Re: RV-List: SPRAYLAT &unmask
> Date: 2/16/04 2:01:00 PM US Eastern Standard Time
> From: dan(at)rvproject.com
> Reply-to: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent from the Internet
>
>
>
>
> >Will the unmask product remove the masking tape that has been on there for
> >way too long? I have some masking tape on the front edge where the canopy
>
> Tim,
>
> I had this problem (left masking tape on there for about a year, nasty mess
> taking it off). Kerosene ended up being the winner-winner chicken dinner
> for getting all the masking tape residue off pretty easily.
>
> Best of luck,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon - Rethink Internal Battery |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
> I don't have my unit yet, but are you sure
> they don't have some secret combination of
> pressing buttons that does a reboot? Something
> like pressing all four buttons for five
> seconds, or first two for five seconds, then
> second two for five seconds? Or ...
>
> Mickey
I am sure. I spoke with Nick at Dynon today and they will have a software
fix in a couple of days.
I tried to convince them to install two wires on the internal battery so I
could installa switch but they think this is a bandaid instead of a fix. I
think it is insurance.
Ross........Mickey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tracy Crook" <lors01(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: CrossFlow Subie engine |
I have no first hand knowledge of the CF4-20 CrossFlow engine that someone posted
a link to earlier but I did check out their specs on-line. Below is an excerpt
from their document.
Let's assume the HP rating is correct even though 180 HP sounds optimistic from
a 125 cubic inch engine. They claim 7.5 GPH at 80% power. 80% of 180 is 144
HP. 7.5 GPH is 45 lb per hr. 45 lb / 144 HP equals a BSFC of .3125 lb/hp/hr.
This is better than most diesel engines and better than any gasoline engine
I ever heard of.
This might be a fine engine but is anybody buying these numbers? This kind of
stuff gives auto conversions a bad name.
Tracy Crook
Performance - 180 horse power at 5800 rpm
Reduction ratio - 2.34:1
Compression ratio - 10.1:1
Torque at propeller - 375 ft / lbs
Fuel consumption at 80% power - 7.5 gallons per hour
Displacement - 2000 cubic centimeters
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Evenson" <revenson(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Experience w/Monroy ATD-200? |
Here's part of the manual for the ATD-300 model. Sounds like it rotates between
multiple targets.
6.1 High Traffic Activity In areas of high traffic activity the display will show
multiple traffics in an alternating fashion. This is most common for traffic
between 4 and 5nm. Display preference is given to the closest traffic by distance.
As traffic gets closer background traffic display is reduced or eliminated.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Becker" <ctbecker(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | CrossFlow Subie engine |
I'm not sure of the CrossFlow Numbers, but the numbers for the Eggenfellner
have stood the test of time. Especially with the new 2.5T variable valve
engine.
Charlie Becker
N464CB RV 8AS(ubie)
Empennage (Wings in the mail)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tracy Crook
Subject: Re: RV-List: CrossFlow Subie engine
I have no first hand knowledge of the CF4-20 CrossFlow engine that someone
posted a link to earlier but I did check out their specs on-line. Below is
an excerpt from their document.
Let's assume the HP rating is correct even though 180 HP sounds optimistic
from a 125 cubic inch engine. They claim 7.5 GPH at 80% power. 80% of 180
is 144 HP. 7.5 GPH is 45 lb per hr. 45 lb / 144 HP equals a BSFC of .3125
lb/hp/hr. This is better than most diesel engines and better than any
gasoline engine I ever heard of.
This might be a fine engine but is anybody buying these numbers? This kind
of stuff gives auto conversions a bad name.
Tracy Crook
Performance - 180 horse power at 5800 rpm
Reduction ratio - 2.34:1
Compression ratio - 10.1:1
Torque at propeller - 375 ft / lbs
Fuel consumption at 80% power - 7.5 gallons per hour
Displacement - 2000 cubic centimeters
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: CrossFlow Subie engine |
>I have no first hand knowledge of the CF4-20 CrossFlow engine that someone
>posted a link to earlier but I did check out their specs on-line. Below is
>an excerpt from their document.
>Let's assume the HP rating is correct even though 180 HP sounds optimistic
>from a 125 cubic inch engine. They claim 7.5 GPH at 80% power. 80% of
>180 is 144 HP. 7.5 GPH is 45 lb per hr. 45 lb / 144 HP equals a BSFC of
>.3125 lb/hp/hr. This is better than most diesel engines and better than
>any gasoline engine I ever heard of.
>This might be a fine engine but is anybody buying these numbers? This kind
>of stuff gives auto conversions a bad name.
>Tracy Crook
>
>Performance - 180 horse power at 5800 rpm
>Reduction ratio - 2.34:1
>Compression ratio - 10.1:1
>Torque at propeller - 375 ft / lbs
>Fuel consumption at 80% power - 7.5 gallons per hour
>Displacement - 2000 cubic centimeters
Tracy,
I have been contacted by them for input on what I'd like to see in an RV10
power package. Bottom line is....I want POWER! I'm also skeptical of the
horsepower specs you reference. They do have some very intelligent sounding
verbage on dyno use, how, why, what it shows and does not show. Strange
thing though, I saw no direct dyno performance specs for their engine. I am
very impressed with their overall package. It looks to be a finely crafted
setup. What is also nice is the supposed ability to drive a hydraulic prop,
which is atypical for a redrive unit.
I'm highly motivated to go non-Lycosaur for my RV10 and am seeking the most
bang for the buck, with the least amount of hassle-factor to install it. 260
hp minimum. Jury is still out on just where I'm going to get such an
engine.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD for sale.
RV10 '51
overload! http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200362ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Ford" <dford(at)michweb.net> |
| Subject: | RE: TCM FADEC for the Lycoming |
I just finished and am now flying my RV6 with FADEC. The reason I went with this
system originally was that I bought a core O360 that was in a fire, had no
mags or carbeurator, basically I had a crankcase and crankshaft (would not do
that again) I was originally going to rebuild this with standard mag, elec. ign.,
and carb. setup but someone suggested I look into the FADEC and decided that
at this point it may cost a little more but would tend to lean a little toward
auto technology for my airplane. I liked what I read in researching the
system and was pleased when Vans had confirmed a 15% fuel savings when testing
with their RV8. The propellor issue was a concern for me and although I was
originally gearing for a constant speed prop, in the midst of all the concerns
at the time decided I would start with the Sensenich which has no rpm restrictions
for the 180 hp engine w/FADEC. I now have about 15 hours on the engine
and can only tell you that it starts smooth, runs smooth, has plenty of power,
is fast, and shuts down with the turn of the key. I am not promoting or knocking
FADEC, for me it is too early to tell anything, I just made the comittment
to try it for my airplane. For more information, Ken Barto has been flying
his RV6A with FADEC for a few years now, and from my conversations with him he
is very satisfied with it, when I quizzed him as to if he would put it in his
RV10 he's building he affirmed that he would.
The plusses I see are--it adds fuel injection to a standard carbed O360; adds
computer controlled combustion-- eliminating the mixture control; each cylinder
is managed independently via independent fuel flow, cht, egt monitoring,
engine timing is electronically managed via a speed sensor in place of the right
magneto which monitors a modified mag gear counting cam and crankshaft pulses;
each cylinder is individually peaked for best power or economy depending on
settings; in theory the engine burns cleaner, should last longer? (remains
to be seen); it does start quite a bit smoother to other O360s I have seen,
must be due to the pulsed fuel distribution. Would be glad to try to answer any
questions you have, right now am having too much fun flying my first airplane
and am happy to be flying!
Dave Ford
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
| Subject: | Re: CrossFlow Subie engine |
On Tue, 17 Feb 2004, Brian Denk wrote:
> I'm highly motivated to go non-Lycosaur for my RV10 and am seeking the most
> bang for the buck, with the least amount of hassle-factor to install it. 260
> hp minimum. Jury is still out on just where I'm going to get such an
> engine.
The new Bombardier 220 HP or 300 HP engine might be the ticket for a -10, if
it's ready in time for you.
http://www.vaircraftengines.com/
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Henry Hochberg <aeroncadoc(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Experience w/Monroy ATD-200? |
I've gotten multiple warnings in congested airspace and you can't tell
if it's for the same or a different aircraft. It just keeps you more
vigilant.
Having said that, my Monroy ATD-200 is for sale. I'm hoping for $300
(paid $600 and used it three times). Email privately if you want more info.
Henry H.
RV-6 N72224 KAWO
Dj Merrill wrote:
>
>Glenn Brasch wrote:
>
>
>>
>>What does the unit do with multiple targets? Thanks
>>Glenn in Tucson, -9A wings, fuselage ordered.
>>
>>
>
> Both the Surecheck RX-110 and the Monroy ATD-200
>pick the closest target, I believe. I think the newer
>models may be able to track more than one, but I am not sure.
>
>-Dj
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim and Bev Cone" <jimnbev(at)olypen.com> |
OK, the canopy instructions are in photo share.
Jim Cone
3 peat offender
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Another transponder check question... |
Does anyone know if my RMI microEncoder will have to come out of the
panel to be checked? There's just zero access to the rear while it's in
place. Yes, I know I should have put an access door in the baggage
bulkhead, but I didn't... :-)
Regards,
Ken Balch
Clermont, FL
RV-8 N118KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Dallas airports |
Michel, I go to Simuflite also and we land at Arlington (GKY) since it is an
easy drive straight north on the interstate to the Simuflite area of hotels.
There are others that may be more convenient for the small aircraft. We like
staying on the North side of DFW....like the Harvey suites.
Good luck
Doug Preston
BHM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | P M Condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Top Mounted Antenna ?? |
The SWR you measured was a measure of the reflected RF energy along the coax
transmission line, basically the mismatch of the radiating element(antenna),
connector(s) & line. In theory, the RF is heating up (almost not preceivable) the
coax
(reflecting) and radiating out the active element(antena). Placement of the antenna
has
nothing to do with the SWR. Now, transmitted RF energy, once exited the antenna
has
lobes, patterns and field strengths of signal that may by biased based on location
of
the antenna. Shielding and masking of the signal from the rudder or stab will effect
radiated RF and produce blind spots. Remember this all theory. In school, after
all the
theory and lab exercises on optimal RF, transmission line theory and all that,
the
instrustor placed a ordinary potatoe masher on the test rig and the kitchen potatoe
masher radiated the RF energy with the same SWR and energy pattern and same line
loss as
the "real antenna". I imagine the reason the instructor did this was to show us
the
theory and practical side of electronics, in this case, was......well....not really
sure.
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Top mounted antenna
While on this subject has anyone else ever tested the performance of an ELT
antenna mounted under the fiberglass fairing between the rudder and horizontal.
I made some measurements with my MFJ-259B antenna analyzer and found that,
when mounted there, there was an extremely high SWR and no resonance indicated.
(I am a ham operator.) Therefore, the antenna will radiate very poorly.
For that reason I am seriously considering putting the ELT antenna on the turtle
deck. When it is in the clear, the SWR measures about 1.5:1 which is
acceptable.
Does anyone know about how serious the additional drag would be?
In a message dated 2/15/04 11:25:50 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
sbuc(at)hiwaay.net writes:
> Doug Weiler wrote:
>
>
> His question is whether anyone has had any experience with a
> >top mounted antenna mounted roughly halfway between the canopy and the
> >vertical fin. Specifically any RF interference with such an installation.
>
>
> The com antenna mounted on the turtle deck of my RV-6 has always worked
> very nicely for me.
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6 545 hrs)
> http://thervjournal.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Top Mounted Antenna ?? |
In a message dated 2/17/04 9:41:22 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
pcondon(at)mitre.org writes:
>
> The SWR you measured was a measure of the reflected RF energy along the coax
> transmission line, basically the mismatch of the radiating element(antenna),
> connector(s) &line. In theory, the RF is heating up (almost not preceivable)
> the coax
> (reflecting) and radiating out the active element(antena). Placement of the
> antenna has
> nothing to do with the SWR. Now, transmitted RF energy, once exited the
> antenna has
> lobes, patterns and field strengths of signal that may by biased based on
> location of
> the antenna. Shielding and masking of the signal from the rudder or stab
> will effect
> radiated RF and produce blind spots. Remember this all theory. In school,
> after all the
> theory and lab exercises on optimal RF, transmission line theory and all
> that, the
> instrustor placed a ordinary potatoe masher on the test rig and the kitchen
> potatoe
> masher radiated the RF energy with the same SWR and energy pattern and same
> line loss as
> the "real antenna". I imagine the reason the instructor did this was to show
> us the
> theory and practical side of electronics, in this case, was......well....not
> really
> sure.
>
Hi P M and thanks for your reply,
I must disagree about the antenna placement having nothing to do with SWR.
Placing a lossy potato in the RF field can absorb a lot of power and not change
the SWR, but the area around the tailcone is probably not lossy for RF. The
placement of the antenna definitely changes SWR as shown by a simple
measurement of SWR by any of the instruments commonly used for that purpose. The
reason is that the antenna is detuned by the capacitance of the nearby grounded
surfaces. Although you are right about SWR not being the final determining
factor of the radiation efficiency of the antenna, it is a good indicator of
weather the antenna is working as designed. A field strength meter would be a
better instrument to use to prove whether the antenna is doing its job or not.
However, its a little hard to test antennas on 121.5 MHz without drawing a lot
of
attention from people trying to locate the emergency!
I know from experience with antennas that placing the antenna in the tailcone
as is being done simply will not work well at all.
Dan N766DH RV-7A almost finished
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jamesbaldwin(at)attglobal.net |
| Subject: | Re: Engine drawings (Off topic) |
I called EAA and asked for Lycoming drawings, assuming they would have
these for their members. I was told they did not have any. I wonderd
if I asked the question correctly. Then I asked if they planned on
getting any and again, no plans to do so. Considering that we are
"experimental builders" represented by a group including this name I was
disappointed. I would have gladly paid a reproduction fee -- reduced to
all EAA builders because Lycoming's fees would be amortized.
My point is this: if enough EAA members ask for resources such as this
then perhaps the EAA library will get with it and get more technical
information to advance our cause. Since quite a few of us use Autocad
or something similar it might make sense to make this stuff easily
available. Anyone else want this type of information?
Brian Kraut wrote:
>
>Can anyone tell me where I can get some CAD drawings of popular aircraft engines?
I am working on a design for a 4 place aircraft and I need some engine drawings
for my initial shape and sizing drawings. I would prefer 3D cad drawings,
but I have not been able to find and dimensioned drawings at all yet so I
will take whatever I can get for right now. I am in particular looking for a
TSIO-550 as a maximum size engine, but would like an O-360 and O-320 also.
>
>Brian Kraut
>engalt(at)earthlink.net
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
| Subject: | Engine drawings (Off topic) |
Hard to do. The drawings are copyrighted by Lycoming and I doubt if they
would allow the EAA to reproduce at will.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
jamesbaldwin(at)attglobal.net
Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine drawings (Off topic)
I called EAA and asked for Lycoming drawings, assuming they would have
these for their members. I was told they did not have any. I wonderd
if I asked the question correctly. Then I asked if they planned on
getting any and again, no plans to do so. Considering that we are
"experimental builders" represented by a group including this name I was
disappointed. I would have gladly paid a reproduction fee -- reduced to
all EAA builders because Lycoming's fees would be amortized.
My point is this: if enough EAA members ask for resources such as this
then perhaps the EAA library will get with it and get more technical
information to advance our cause. Since quite a few of us use Autocad
or something similar it might make sense to make this stuff easily
available. Anyone else want this type of information?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
vansairforce
I've been working on installing a bullet cam in my vertical stabilizer....
http://www.vondane.com/rv8a/stabcam/index.htm
-Bill VonDane
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)QCBC.ORG> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine drawings (Off topic) |
Many of the engine manuals have 3-views with dimensions. You could scan
these at high resolution, scale up and easily use them.
Incidentally I think that the 550 is a Continental, Lycomings is a 540.
----- Original Message -----
From: <jamesbaldwin(at)attglobal.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine drawings (Off topic)
>
> I called EAA and asked for Lycoming drawings, assuming they would have
> these for their members. I was told they did not have any. I wonderd
> if I asked the question correctly. Then I asked if they planned on
> getting any and again, no plans to do so. Considering that we are
> "experimental builders" represented by a group including this name I was
> disappointed. I would have gladly paid a reproduction fee -- reduced to
> all EAA builders because Lycoming's fees would be amortized.
> My point is this: if enough EAA members ask for resources such as this
> then perhaps the EAA library will get with it and get more technical
> information to advance our cause. Since quite a few of us use Autocad
> or something similar it might make sense to make this stuff easily
> available. Anyone else want this type of information?
>
> Brian Kraut wrote:
>
> >
> >Can anyone tell me where I can get some CAD drawings of popular aircraft
engines? I am working on a design for a 4 place aircraft and I need some
engine drawings for my initial shape and sizing drawings. I would prefer 3D
cad drawings, but I have not been able to find and dimensioned drawings at
all yet so I will take whatever I can get for right now. I am in particular
looking for a TSIO-550 as a maximum size engine, but would like an O-360 and
O-320 also.
> >
> >Brian Kraut
> >engalt(at)earthlink.net
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com> |
cool. I saw Larry's example too and am darn glad you pointed out the lense
coverage 'cause I agree a wider field of view would be nice to have. If you
can solve that one please update to the list.
lucky
>From: Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com, rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com, vansairforce
>
>Subject: RV-List: New StabCam!
>Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2004 09:15:22 -0700
>
>
>I've been working on installing a bullet cam in my vertical stabilizer....
>
>http://www.vondane.com/rv8a/stabcam/index.htm
>
>
>-Bill VonDane
>EAA Tech Counselor
>RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
>www.vondane.com
>www.creativair.com
>www.epanelbuilder.com
>
>
http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200362ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine drawings (Off topic) |
jamesbaldwin(at)attglobal.net wrote:
>
>I called EAA and asked for Lycoming drawings, assuming they would have
>these for their members. I was told they did not have any. I wonderd
>if I asked the question correctly. Then I asked if they planned on
>getting any and again, no plans to do so. Considering that we are
>"experimental builders" represented by a group including this name I was
>disappointed. I would have gladly paid a reproduction fee -- reduced to
>all EAA builders because Lycoming's fees would be amortized.
>My point is this: if enough EAA members ask for resources such as this
>then perhaps the EAA library will get with it and get more technical
>information to advance our cause. Since quite a few of us use Autocad
>or something similar it might make sense to make this stuff easily
>available. Anyone else want this type of information?
>
Well, there's probably a copyright problem with EAA becoming the
'reproducer' and selling them. Your best bet would be to see if the
Lycoming drawings fit your needs and purchas same directly. Some
plotters have scanning capability and there are programs to convert the
scanned drawing to a vector graphics file which is compatible with
Autocad. Having said that, I don't know anybody that does this. If I
remember correctly (and that's iffy) this started as a quest for
dimensional data so that engineering could be done correctly so cowl and
fuselage could be aerodynamically engineered. You might find out how
Van's designs their FWF kit and get some good info there. I suspect
that they just hang the engine out there with all accessories and
construct a PVC engine mount and then convert that to a steel mount.
Shaped foam is used to make a cowl and voila ...... the task is done.
Just another opinion .....
Linn
>
>Brian Kraut wrote:
>
>
>
>>
>>Can anyone tell me where I can get some CAD drawings of popular aircraft engines?
I am working on a design for a 4 place aircraft and I need some engine drawings
for my initial shape and sizing drawings. I would prefer 3D cad drawings,
but I have not been able to find and dimensioned drawings at all yet so I
will take whatever I can get for right now. I am in particular looking for a
TSIO-550 as a maximum size engine, but would like an O-360 and O-320 also.
>>
>>Brian Kraut
>>engalt(at)earthlink.net
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
| Subject: | Re: CrossFlow Subie engine |
On Tue, 17 Feb 2004, Darwin N. Barrie wrote:
> I researched the Bombardier engine some time ago. As you note it will be
> certified and they will not be selling to the experimental market.
I don't know what their plans are, but they're testing it on a Murphy Moose,
which indicates at least a passing interest in the kitplane market.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: CrossFlow Subie engine |
>
>
>I have no first hand knowledge of the CF4-20 CrossFlow engine that someone
>posted a link to earlier but I did check out their specs on-line. Below
>is an excerpt from their document.
>Let's assume the HP rating is correct even though 180 HP sounds optimistic
>from a 125 cubic inch engine. They claim 7.5 GPH at 80% power. 80% of
>180 is 144 HP. 7.5 GPH is 45 lb per hr. 45 lb / 144 HP equals a BSFC of
>.3125 lb/hp/hr. This is better than most diesel engines and better than
>any gasoline engine I ever heard of.
>This might be a fine engine but is anybody buying these numbers?
I don't have aircraft conversion experience with Subaru engines,
but I do have automobile conversion experience with them.
I put a carburetted 1800 twin cam in my 1970 VW Campmobile. The
mileage went from 21 mpg to 27 mpg. I put an EFI turbo-charged 1800 twin
cam in my 1966 Karmann Ghia. The mileage in the Ghia went from 32 mpg to 40
mpg. The van would bury the speedometer easily and I could push the Ghia up
to 135 mph.
These were both 100% stock engines (with custom exhaust systems.)
Even driving these cars like a maniac, I would get great gas mileage. I
expect you would also get fantastic specific fuel consumption in an
aircraft conversion.
Even though I have a lot of experience with the Subaru engines, I
don't feel comfortable souping one up to 180 HP and expecting it to be
reliable. They are highly reliable when left stock in an auto application,
but asking one to run continuously at 180 HP makes me a bit nervous.
Keep in mind that I have no worries about running a Mazda rotary
at full HP in an airplane and plan to do so in my RV-7. It's a different
animal entirely.
PS
I don't still have both Subaru engines and the adapter stuff in
case anyone is interested.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
The camera I'm using looks to have the same field of view as Bill's. I'm
not too concerned about it yet though. It looks too tight in the hanger,
but I'm hoping it will be just right in the air. I've seem wider FOV
lenses, and they can have the illusion of wearing coke-bottle glasses
inside a fishbowl - something I'd rather avoid.
I used shielded 20 AWG from the bullet cam to the camcorder (nice and
skinny), using Electric Bob's technique for putting the BNC end on. I
have some interference while transmitting too, but it's very dependant
upon where all the **test equipment and hook-ups** are laid out inside the
**metal building**. Again, I'm optimistic this problem will go away once
everything is hooked up "for real".
-
Larry Bowen, RV-8 FWF
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
lucky macy said:
>
> cool. I saw Larry's example too and am darn glad you pointed out the
> lense
> coverage 'cause I agree a wider field of view would be nice to have. If
> you
> can solve that one please update to the list.
>
> lucky
>
>
>>From: Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com>
>>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com, rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com, vansairforce
>>
>>Subject: RV-List: New StabCam!
>>Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2004 09:15:22 -0700
>>
>>
>>I've been working on installing a bullet cam in my vertical
>> stabilizer....
>>
>>http://www.vondane.com/rv8a/stabcam/index.htm
>>
>>
>>-Bill VonDane
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Jim Cone ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Jim Cone
Subject: Jim Cone's Canopy Installation Instructions
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/jimnbev@olypen.com.02.17.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Patterson <scc_ron(at)yahoo.com> |
Hello,
I've been doing alot of reading, but not much posting on these lists. Thought I'd
try getting involved a bit with fellow builders.
I'm writing to see if there are still guys building the RV-4? I just purchased
a new kit and started on it about January 1st, 04. Luckily I have a friend (Mark
Koenig) who is an experienced builder and is helping me (actually I'm helping
him). We're about to finish the empennage and I'm picking up the rest of the
kit next week if all goes well.
No doubt about it, this is the hard way to build an airplane. I now have alot of
respect for the guys that went before me who didn't have the benefit of the
refinements of the later kits (prepunch and quickbuilds). Getting these -3's and
4's to fly safe and straight is a real effort. Semms to me It needs to be a
labor of love or it won't likely come out right.
Recently I was in Missoula MT and had the opportunity of meeting Art Chard at his
shop in Stevensville. I learned alot about the evolution of the RV series and
his part in the design and building of them. Nice man. Built 47 airplanes so
far! Was in the midle of an F-1 when I was there in December.
Seems to me it's too bad Van wouldn't put this kit out in a prepunched version.
I still feel it's his best design. I've spoken to a couple of folks at the factory
and it seems the cost of reverse engineering the kit would be large and
the market for the -3 and -4 pretty small. Wouldn't make a good business decision.
If you have built, or you are currently building a -3 or a -4, drop a note about
your experience. Would be good to hear about 'how they used to do it' and how
some of us are still at it.
Ron Patterson
N8ZD reserved
Northern California
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Patterson <scc_ron(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Anybody out there? |
Hello,
I've been doing alot of reading, but not much posting on these lists. Thought I'd
try getting involved a bit with fellow builders.
I'm writing to see if there are still guys building the RV-4? I just purchased
a new kit and started on it about January 1st, 04. Luckily I have a friend (Mark
Koenig) who is an experienced builder and is helping me (actually I'm helping
him). We're about to finish the empennage and I'm picking up the rest of the
kit next week if all goes well.
No doubt about it, this is the hard way to build an airplane. I now have alot of
respect for the guys that went before me who didn't have the benefit of the
refinements of the later kits (prepunch and quickbuilds). Getting these -3's and
4's to fly safe and straight is a real effort. Semms to me It needs to be a
labor of love or it won't likely come out right.
Recently I was in Missoula MT and had the opportunity of meeting Art Chard at his
shop in Stevensville. I learned alot about the evolution of the RV series and
his part in the design and building of them. Nice man. Built 47 airplanes so
far! Was in the midle of an F-1 when I was there in December.
Seems to me it's too bad Van wouldn't put this kit out in a prepunched version.
I still feel it's his best design. I've spoken to a couple of folks at the factory
and it seems the cost of reverse engineering the kit would be large and
the market for the -3 and -4 pretty small. Wouldn't make a good business decision.
If you have built, or you are currently building a -3 or a -4, drop a note about
your experience. Would be good to hear about 'how they used to do it' and how
some of us are still at it.
Ron Patterson
N8ZD reserved
Northern California
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Transponder Checks |
It Does if it needs to be adjusted. I would seriously suggest that you have
your locla radio shop conduct a bench check on the unit prior to installing
it. Then he will just be able to hook up to everything on the aircraft and
finish the inspection.
Mike Robertson
>From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Transponder Checks
>Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 21:46:45 -0500
>
>
>Does adjusting the encoder integrated into the Dynon present any special
>challenges?
>
>-
>Larry Bowen
>Larry(at)BowenAero.com
>http://BowenAero.com
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Bill VonDane [mailto:bill(at)vondane.com]
> > Sent: Friday, February 13, 2004 3:33 PM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Transponder Checks
> >
> >
> >
> > I just helped out our local Transponder Certifier Guy here
> > with an -8, and there are some very specialized tools he had
> > for setting the encoder, and checking the pitot and static systems...
> >
> > We had to adjust both the high and low pots on the
> > encoder.....and you need to set these with the encoder
> > thinking that it is actually at the high and low altitudes,
> > so you need another machine that fools the encoder via the
> > static port...
> >
> > He charges $200, but he checks everything, is very exact in
> > his encoder settings, and if something is wrong he will let
> > you fix it right there while he's doing the tests...
> >
> > Oh, and he's building an RV-4...
> >
> > -Bill VonDane
> > EAA Tech Counselor
> > RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
> > www.vondane.com
> > www.creativair.com
> > www.epanelbuilder.com
> >
> >
> > ===========
> > Matronics Forums.
> > ===========
> > ===========
> > ===========
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200362ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim and Bev Cone" <jimnbev(at)olypen.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon - Rethink Internal Battery |
Another possibility is to not get the internal battery and install a backup battery
and a diode hooked up to a CB switch so that the battery is constantly charged
but will automatically pick up the load if the voltage drops by .5 volts.
This setup is described on Blue Mountain Avionics' site. I have it for my
EFIS One. This is also cheaper than the internal battery.
Jim Cone
3 peat offender
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: correction Re: CrossFlow Subie engine |
>
>PS
>
> I don't still have both Subaru engines and the adapter stuff in
>case anyone is interested.
I meant to say "I DO still have the engines...."
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: This list is powerful and helpful. |
I got an updated proposal to include the mods needed for an inverted flight
oil system and hydraulic prop governor. Here's a cut and paste of the new
price paragraph. All told it added about $7500 to the cost.
Mike, I can send you the updated proposal if you want to post it instead.
Our list price for the CF4-20 engine is US$24,955.00.
A 35% payment (US$8,734.25) will be required initially to commence the
production of your engine.
A second 35% payment (US$8,734.25) will be required 2 months after the date
of your first payment
The sum of US$7,486.50 will be required after the completion of your engine
and prior to the shipping of it to your location.
We also recommend that you provide us with travel expenses and professional
accommodations for a 3 day stay for one of our
technicians at your location to assist you in the installation of your engine
onto your firewall. During this time we will also provide you
with some training about the operation of your Crossflow engine as well as
doing performance testing to ensure that everything is
working properly.
Crossflow Inverted Flight Oil System =E2=80=93 US$5,500.00
Crossflow PSRU Ancillary Drive Gears =E2=80=93 US$1,293.75
Crossflow PSRU Hydraulic Collar =E2=80=93 US$828.00
In a message dated 2/17/2004 10:41:21 AM Eastern Standard Time,
mstewart(at)iss.net writes:
I have been monitoring some of the click throughs on my web site based
on rv-list activity and it is quite amazing to watch the interest and
usage levels. Those who post answers, and the questions, are watched by
the lurkers and they clearly find them useful. As an example. Lucky
posted up his alternative engine proposal which has had over 2400
download attempts in just about a week. Holy cow batman! That's
enormous!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: correction Re: CrossFlow Subie engine |
what engines? the 2.5L Egg engine?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Cours <rv-j(at)moriarti.org> |
| Subject: | cutting aluminum with a hole saw |
Hi, everyone -
I'm almost ready to cut the lightening holes in the spar stiffener for a
7A's vertical stabilizer. Since I haven't gotten my drill press yet, and
I'm not brave enough to use a fly cutter without one :-) , my current
plan is to clamp the stiffener to a particle board backing, use a bit of
cutting oil, cut with hole saws that are 1/8" under-sized in a cordless
screwdriver/drill, and clean up with a smooth cut file as necessary. I'm
pretty new to working in metal. Do any of you experienced folks see any
problems with this plan? Otherwise, I'll just give 'er a try and see
what happens.
thanks,
Jeff C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Re: [VAF Mailing List] fuel filter Vs screen.... |
vansairforce
The filters I have in the wing roots of my -8A only have screens in them...
I have cleaned them maybe 3 times in 21 months, and they never had much in
them... Just looks like a little fuzz...
The filters are from Earl's, part number 230208:
http://www.amstreetrod.com/html/fuel-oil-filters.html
Here are some photos of my installation:
http://vondane.com/rv8a/finish/finish8.htm
I am going to be cleaning then here this week and I will take some photos...
-Bill VonDane
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
By the way... I have added a new Aircraft / Engine Pre-Heater to my
CreativAir product line:
http://www.creativair.com/ex-heat/index.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Rhodes" <lezdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [VAF Mailing List] fuel filter Vs screen....
Hi Charles,
It's a great "debate" subject and I agree with what
you've said here. My safety concern is around the
potential use of an auto style fuel filter by a
builder who may not appreciate the difference between
an auto and aircraft application.
Thanks for the feedback on clearing that up.
Happy tailwinds!
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Will & Lynda Allen" <linenwool(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | cutting aluminum with a hole saw |
I cut lightening holes in spacers for my wings almost the same way and it
worked fine. I used the bi-metal hole saws with an electric plug in drill (I
didn't know if my cordless would be powerful enough). I did find that it
works better if you drill the pilot hole first with a separate bit and then
use the hole cutter and pilot drill together to finish the hole. Using
Boelube worked awesome as the lubricant and I swear by this stuff.
I will add though, since getting a drill press, it's much nicer drilling
these holes and if you're going to get one anyway eventually, you may as
well get one now.
-Will Allen
North Bend, Wa
RV8 wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Cours
Subject: RV-List: cutting aluminum with a hole saw
Hi, everyone -
I'm almost ready to cut the lightening holes in the spar stiffener for a
7A's vertical stabilizer. Since I haven't gotten my drill press yet, and
I'm not brave enough to use a fly cutter without one :-) , my current
plan is to clamp the stiffener to a particle board backing, use a bit of
cutting oil, cut with hole saws that are 1/8" under-sized in a cordless
screwdriver/drill, and clean up with a smooth cut file as necessary. I'm
pretty new to working in metal. Do any of you experienced folks see any
problems with this plan? Otherwise, I'll just give 'er a try and see
what happens.
thanks,
Jeff C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leesafur(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Wing tip antennas |
I'm thinking of going with the Archer Model 1 wing tip antenna. Does
anybody know first hand If it will fit the RV-3 wing tip also can a guy get away
with a strobe light mounted in the same tip?
Thanks
Lee
Anoka, MN
RV-3 Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: correction Re: CrossFlow Subie engine |
>
>what engines? the 2.5L Egg engine?
Stock 1800 Subaru twin cam (1.8 L) engines. One is a turbo-charged
electronic fuel injection engine. The other is a non-turbo carburetor
engine. Complete power plants with alternators, fuel pumps, ignition coils,
and all electronics, relays, etc. Only one VW-Subaru adapter plate, clutch,
and flywheel, however.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Wing tip antennas |
> I'm thinking of going with the Archer Model 1 wing tip
> antenna. Does
> anybody know first hand If it will fit the RV-3 wing tip also
> can a guy get away
> with a strobe light mounted in the same tip?
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Lee
> Anoka, MN
> RV-3 Wing
Lee, is it a com antenna? If so, even by Bob Archer's admission, it
isn't very good. One of the -7A's in town has one, and he going to
switch to a whip on the fuse.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 438 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
| Subject: | Re: CrossFlow Subie engine |
On Tue, 17 Feb 2004, Bill Dube wrote:
> Even though I have a lot of experience with the Subaru engines, I
> don't feel comfortable souping one up to 180 HP and expecting it to be
> reliable. They are highly reliable when left stock in an auto application,
> but asking one to run continuously at 180 HP makes me a bit nervous.
I agree. Eggenfellner is getting excellent results with his Subarus, which are
essentially dead stock (except for a slightly re-tuned intake maniflod).
They're good for 165 HP maximum, with about 105 HP available for cruise at
8,000 feet. Charlie Walker has about 450 hours on his, in a Glastar, and has
not yet used any oil. Wear is negligible.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Danielson" <johnd(at)wlcwyo.com> |
| Subject: | cutting aluminum with a hole saw |
I DON'T REALLY SEE APROBLEM WITH THAT APPORACH.
Get yourself A DRILL PRESS, EVEN A BENCH TOP UNIT CAN DO 99% OF THE WORK
YOU NEED.
John L. Danielson
307-266-2524
johnd(at)wlcwyo.com
WLC, Inc.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Cours
Subject: RV-List: cutting aluminum with a hole saw
Hi, everyone -
I'm almost ready to cut the lightening holes in the spar stiffener for a
7A's vertical stabilizer. Since I haven't gotten my drill press yet, and
I'm not brave enough to use a fly cutter without one :-) , my current
plan is to clamp the stiffener to a particle board backing, use a bit of
cutting oil, cut with hole saws that are 1/8" under-sized in a cordless
screwdriver/drill, and clean up with a smooth cut file as necessary. I'm
pretty new to working in metal. Do any of you experienced folks see any
problems with this plan? Otherwise, I'll just give 'er a try and see
what happens.
thanks,
Jeff C.
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | cutting aluminum with a hole saw |
| From: | "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" <F.vanderHulst(at)ucol.ac.nz> |
> Since I haven't gotten my drill press yet, and
> I'm not brave enough to use a fly cutter without one :-)
Very wise... a fly cutter in a hand-held drill would be *very*
dangerous. It's dangerous enough in a drill press!
> , my current
> plan is to clamp the stiffener to a particle board backing, use a bit
of
> cutting oil, cut with hole saws that are 1/8" under-sized in a
cordless
> screwdriver/drill, and clean up with a smooth cut file as necessary.
Yup, sounds fine to me. I've cut many lightening holes this way. Make
sure you clamp that metal down really well, and go slowly at the cut.
Alternatively, if you have a jigsaw/sabre saw, you could use that. But
it's difficult to get a nice round hole.
Frank
Learn real skills for the real world - Apply online
at http://www.ucol.ac.nz or call 0800 GO UCOL
(0800 46 8265) or txt free 3388 for more information
and make a good move to UCOL Universal College of
Learning.
Enrol with a public institute and be certain of your
future
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Another transponder check question... |
The RMI MicroEncoder can be adjusted from the front panel if it needs it.
The only way you will need to pull the unit out is if it is broken and needs
a part inside replaced.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,438 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: Ken Balch <kbalch(at)cfl.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: Another transponder check question...
Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2004 08:51:33 -0500
Does anyone know if my RMI microEncoder will have to come out of the
panel to be checked? There's just zero access to the rear while it's in
place. Yes, I know I should have put an access door in the baggage
bulkhead, but I didn't... :-)
Regards,
Ken Balch
Clermont, FL
RV-8 N118KB
Say good-bye to spam, viruses and pop-ups with MSN Premium -- free trial
offer! http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200359ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
I've heard about this, but but have never seen or believed its intensity.
Climbing out yesterday at about 100 kts, I looked over at the right wing and
fuel was literally gushing out of the fuel cap. Almost like there was no
cap at all and the tank was upside down. OK time to land. The stream
minimized as I leveled off and then almost down to nothing as I reduced
power and settled into a normal approach. (less lift, less low pressure
sucking the fuel out of the tank) After landing I checked the cap. It was
on as tightly as always and the big O-ring looked fine. Perhaps the smaller
O-ring broke. Perhaps the plastic washer broke, Perhaps the big O-ring just
got too hard to hold fuel. Either way, they're 12 years old, so both
O-rings on both tanks are getting replaced, and the plastic washers are
getting replaced with stainless steel ones per Van's notice last year.
The tank was about 3/4 full, and I estimate I lost over a gallon of fuel to
the leak in no more than 2 minutes from takeoff up through about 1500'.
I'm not sure what caused the leak yet, but I do know it can't be too big of
a hole. At least nothing you'd ever expect that much gas to be pouring
through.
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | What is this engine worth? |
| From: | Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net> |
RV-9 List
Anybody care to guess what this engine is worth? The seller and I are trying
to determine a fair price. Here are the details . . .
Lycoming 0-320-E2D
150 h.p.
Two cylinders in the 60s, two in the mid 70s
Uses about 1 quart of oil every 10 hours
Approximately 3,400 hours total time
Approximately 1,200 hours since overhaul by an A&P
Comes with a MA4-SPA carb with metal float
Comes with a 149 tooth starter ring
Uses an oil screen, not a filter
Oil changed every 25 hours since overhaul
All ADs complied with
The present owner is going to re-use the accessories on his new engine, so
the magnetos, starter, alternator, vacuum pump, oil cooler, etc. are not
included.
Thanks,
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Compass Fluid, was Spraylat & Unmasked |
I've also heard that baby oil works in place of Kerosene for refilling
compasses, but I've not tried this.
Marty RV-6A NOT almost done
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: SPRAYLAT & unmask
Instead of kerosene, use my wife's favorite solvent -- lamp oil. It has no
smell and other than that, I think it is just like kerosene.
I used lamp oil for compass fluid in rebuilding an old compass I got at a
fly
mart -- much cheaper than A/C Spruce. There was a compass factory near here
where my Mom worked, and kerosene was what they used for compass fluid. Ah,
I
got off the topic!
Dan RV-7A N766DH almost done
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
I finally got around to installing my Alt-Trak that I bought right after OSH
before the price increase.
You builders will giggle when I say I was intimidated by what "I" percieved
to be a daunting task....... But I did it and it works!!!!!
Actually it works GREAT!! My installation is an insult to the beautiful
craftsmanship in my airplane, but I was satisified with the way it turned
out and my mistakes are not visible without disassembly.
As I was putting the baggage compartment back together it occured to me that
the Dynon magnetometer was going to be about a foot and half or so from the
servo and I thought, "now I will have another project...." but a test flight
found it has no effect when off and the compass only moves a degree or two
when the ALT hold is engaged.
I flew around for half an hour and tried turns etc, straight and level it
holds within 10, occasionally 20 feet. In a std rate turn it might lose 50
feet, but rolling out it come right back to the selected altitude.
I turned it on, an left it on, and landed the airplane to prove it was not a
problem and it wasn't.
I am off to West Texas (1600nm round-trip) this weekend, so it will get a
workout. So far, I'm very pleased with how easily it went in and how well
it works.
Thank you Mr. Younkin.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: Re: [VAF Mailing List] fuel filter Vs screen.... |
Mike
I forgot to mention that the elements in the Flow Ezy filters are stainless steel
mesh screens, like the Russell units mentioned by Bill Von Dane.
Local RV-6 builder Eric Hensen had shown me a K & N fuel filter externally similar
to the Russell filter. I checked it out. My objection to it (K & N) was that
it offered less than two inches of filter surface area. (ie Easy to clog)
My personal feeling is that I want as much surface area on the element of any
filter in my aircraft, oil or fuel. The greater surface area of a large element
affords a greater margin of safety in my book.
Charlie
PS I can send photos of the Flow Ezy filter element "off list" to anyone interested.
--- Mike Rhodes <<http://us.f124.mail.yahoo.com/ym//ym/Compose?To=lezdriver@yahoo.com&YY=51916&order=down&sort=date&pos=0&view=a&head=b>lezdriver@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Hi Charles,
>
> It's a great "debate" subject and I agree with what you've said here. My safety
concern is around >the potential use of an auto style fuel filter by a builder
who may not appreciate the difference
> between an auto and aircraft application.
>
> Thanks for the feedback on clearing that up.
>
> Happy tailwinds!
> Mike
>
> --- Charles Kuss <<http://us.f124.mail.yahoo.com/ym//ym/Compose?To=chaskuss@yahoo.com&YY=51916&order=down&sort=date&pos=0&view=a&head=b>chaskuss@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > Mike,
> > I was asking this question while researching
> which
> > filter to use. Several filter manufacturers I
> > investigated offered both mesh screens and paper
> > elements. The manufacturers were unanimous in
> their
> > opinion that only a steel mesh screen should be
> used
> > for critical applications.
> > I finally chose the Flow Ezy filter. This is the
> > filter sold by Vans and Airflow Performance. Their
> > elements are all stainless steel mesh. It is
> > available
> > in 3 models. They are of the same design. The
> differ
> > only in physical size and element size. The models
> > are
> > 4ILA, 6ILA (sold by Vans & Airflow) and the 15
> ILA.
> > These units are offered with a variety of
> differing
> > filtration elements, ranging from 238 microns down
> > to
> > 25 microns. All of their elements are pleated, to
> > increase the surface area available.
> > You should contact Precision Airmotive, current
> > manufacturer of the Marvel Schebler carbs used on
> > Lycomings.
> >
> > <http://www.precisionairmotive.com/>http://www.precisionairmotive.com/
> >
> > They should be able to recommend proper sizing of
> > the
> > filtration element for your project.
> >
> > Charlie Kuss
> >
> > --- Mike Rhodes <<http://us.f124.mail.yahoo.com/ym//ym/Compose?To=lezdriver@yahoo.com&YY=51916&order=down&sort=date&pos=0&view=a&head=b>lezdriver@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > > It seems to me that putting anything in the fuel
> > > path
> > > that would be finer than the metal mesh screen
> in
> > > the
> > > gascolator is inviting trouble. Paper fuel
> > filters
> > > in
> > > the micron range is fine for cars because you
> > don't
> > > have to deal with the most dangerous potential
> > force
> > > to airplanes.... gravity... and the only thing
> > that
> > > will defy it.... a running engine!
> > >
> > > It's perfectly fine to allow pieces in the fuel
> to
> > > move into the carb that will pass through the
> > needle
> > > jet, and that's the purpose of the screen mesh
> > size
> > > in
> > > a gascolator.
> > >
> > > A paper/cloth pleated filter in an airplane that
> > > requires fuel tank head pressure to make fuel
> pass
> > > through it before reaching the fuel pp.... not
> in
> > my
> > > airplane! It doesn't matter how much surface
> area
> > a
> > > filter has.... that only changes the time it
> takes
> > > until total obstruction.
> > >
> > > Mike Rhodes
> > > Pilot/Builder & Mechanical Engr.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wing tip antennas |
It fits in the RV-3 wingtip.
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV Right wingtip COM antenna Modified from the wingtip NAV antenna
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | This list is powerful and helpful. |
| From: | "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" <F.vanderHulst(at)ucol.ac.nz> |
> If my math is correct, that now brings the price upwards of $32,000!!
Yikes...
> Considering you can get one hell of an IO-360 built up for $25K, that
extra
> $7k buys a LOT of fuel (or goodies)!
>
> Now, let's say that the crossflow "might" burn a lot less fuel than
the Lycosaur,
> maybe we'll be gratious and say 1.5gph, and price our gas around
$3.00, then we're
> looking at nearly 1700 hours of flying to pay for that difference!
I'd rather take
> that $7,000.00 and buy an autopilot, MT prop, gadgets for the panel,
etc...
Way to rich for my blood too.
But... After 1700 hours, perhaps you'd better save the $7,000 for
rebuilding your IO-360.
Frank
Learn real skills for the real world - Apply online
at http://www.ucol.ac.nz or call 0800 GO UCOL
(0800 46 8265) or txt free 3388 for more information
and make a good move to UCOL Universal College of
Learning.
Enrol with a public institute and be certain of your
future
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Holland" <hollandm(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Attaching gear legs |
Any good ideas on how to lift the fuselage to attach my 9A gear? I have an engine
hoist but I don't think it will lift high enough. And I don't really have
a good situation for an overhead hoist either (9 foot garage ceiling).
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
| Subject: | Re: engines, engines, engines - wonderful to have choices |
for once?
On Tue, 17 Feb 2004, Richard Tasker wrote:
> You might want to take a look at the web site before you decide that is
> "a tiny bit small for an RV-6". I believe that the 2.5XT will
> outperform the Lyc 360.
I was referring to the basic 2.5. I'm quite familiar with the 2.5XT, and
you're right, it is more powerful.
Tedd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Attaching gear legs |
Mike,
Are the engine, and wings etc attached?
If not the unit will be light enough to be lifted onto some saw horses or
whatever for support. It should be light enough for three people to handle
while one positions the supports. Once the legs are on it can be jacked up
and down as needed.
I used linked pairs of one inch wide cargo straps (the ones with the little
winches) looped through some strong hooks in the ceiling to lift my fuse up
off the jig.
Later on I have used them to lift the engineless but finished fuse with the
gear attached.
A set of the heavier cargo straps would lift the fuse engine and all. Costco
and others sell sets of them for a low dollar cost solution.
I have a chain come along that lifts the fuse with the engine etc.
installed. the ceiling in my garage is no more than nine feet high.
Just be sure that the ceiling attachment points are up to the job strength
wise.
In the past I have lifted heavy car engines etc. in low ceiling areas by
running the lift cable of a come along through a pulley mounted on the
ceiling with the winch section attached to the wall. Give close attention to
strong mounting points for safety reasons.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Holland" <hollandm(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: RV-List: Attaching gear legs
>
> Any good ideas on how to lift the fuselage to attach my 9A gear? I have
an engine hoist but I don't think it will lift high enough. And I don't
really have a good situation for an overhead hoist either (9 foot garage
ceiling).
>
> Thanks
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Attaching gear legs |
Mike,
My RV-7A is sitting on 2 saw horses with a 2x4 with 2 layers of carpeting on
top. I attached the carpet material with roofing nails into the sides of the
2x4s, then attached the 2x4s to the saw horses with a drywall screw at each
end deeply counterbored, and not tightened, so they can tip to assume the angle
of the bottom of the fuselage and spread the load evenly. You need about 31
inches off the floor to get the gear legs in. One saw horse is just behind the
exhaust pipes as close to the front of the fuse as possible. The other is
under the wing spar bulkhead. To get it up to this level, I used 2x6s, wood
blocks, and cement blocks. Use carpeting to pad the bottom of the fuselage while
raising it 1 1/2 inches at a time. The CG is close to the front saw horse
and you can go to the tail end and raise it to add blocks under the rear saw
horse area. Use a bottle jack under the nose gear socket padded with a block of
wood to raise the front. It took probably an hour or two to raise it up
enough to finally get the saw horses under it.
Hope this helps.
Dan Hopper RV-7A almost done in N IN
In a message dated 2/18/04 12:47:21 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
hollandm(at)pacbell.net writes:
>
>
> Any good ideas on how to lift the fuselage to attach my 9A gear? I have an
> engine hoist but I don't think it will lift high enough. And I don't really
> have a good situation for an overhead hoist either (9 foot garage ceiling).
>
> Thanks
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Carbon Fiber Prince "P" Tip? |
I am posting this for a friend who is building an RV3.
-----------------------------------------------------
Does anyone have a comment or advise on the Carbon
Fiber Prince "P" Tip
Prop? Any information on this type prop would be
appreciated.
I am looking at purchasing a prop like this for
my RV-3B but some
of
the Indy guys don't have much good to say about it. I
am planning on going to look at
this prop on Sat. Any information you get I would
like to see. This
prop
is one of the more expensive ones........ I want to
be sure it is what
I
want. I need to go Fast! Thanks for your help!
Thanks!
Dave Sloan
Operation Supervisor
3rd Shift Test, ALA, and NOPS
Caterpillar, Inc. LEC
Phone: (765) 448-2593
Fax: (765) 448-5897
sloandw(at)cat.com
__________________________________
http://antispam.yahoo.com/tools
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neil McLeod" <bedrock(at)theriver.com> |
| Subject: | Attaching gear legs |
I used an engine hoist attached to the motor mount and it easily raised
it high enough. I didn't even get close to my 10' ceiling. I'm building
a 7, for a nosegear airplane you might need to block up the tail first.
Neil
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Holland
Subject: RV-List: Attaching gear legs
Any good ideas on how to lift the fuselage to attach my 9A gear? I have
an engine hoist but I don't think it will lift high enough. And I don't
really have a good situation for an overhead hoist either (9 foot
garage ceiling).
Thanks
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Another transponder check question... |
In a message dated 2/17/2004 6:00:19 PM Eastern Standard Time, rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com
writes:
> The RMI MicroEncoder can be adjusted from the front panel if it needs it.
> The only way you will need to pull the unit out is if it is
> broken and needs
> a part inside replaced.
Been there, done that (you can "break" stuff in there if you allow rainwater inside
the unit), but the only adjustment I am aware of, front panel or otherwise,
is a new download of data table for whatever sensor might be "off" Is there
something else I am not aware of?
Harking back to the older thread, I believe if the calibration were ever to drift
off for the encoder, the observant pilot would notice it right away when he
set the altimeter to local barometer and was not reading very close to published
field elevation on the ramp. Never happened to me. Like I said, if this
is your sole altimeter, "correspondence" becomes an oxymoron. Still, the regs
are convoluted enough to be troubling in this instance...
-Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov> |
| Subject: | Rotary engines (was: engines, engines....) |
Great post on rotary engines.
I am totally convinced and plan to run a rotary on my RV-7 (when
it get to that point.) I'm a handy sort that enjoys fabricating custom
parts etc. (I have a buddy with a 3 ton CNC machine in his garage and I
love to do CAD.)
I haven't been able to find much specific information on
turbo-charging. I have seen a few pictures, but that is it. Does anyone
have information on turbo selection, plumbing, intercooler selection,
controls, etc?
I was also wondering about the new Renesis rotary engine. I know I
can get a factory "crate" engine, but what about the stuff that I need that
won't come with the crate engine? Do ancillary parts from older engines
fit? Would I be smarter in hunting up a complete used engine from overseas?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: leather upholstery |
Thanks for the "samples". I could upholster my house with all of these. Do
you want me to send the samples after I make my choice? Im guessing yes.
Can you recommend a particular line of leather for durability/rv use? Ive
narrowed it down to 4 colors but dont really have a preference other than
potential durability.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: <Lenleg(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: leather upholstery
>
> In a message dated 1/27/2004 9:17:30 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> shempdowling(at)earthlink.net writes:
>
> > Does anyone have a good source for enough leather to cover 2 seats?
> >
> > tia
> > Jeff Dowling
> > RV-6A, N915JD
> > 9 hours
> > Chicago/Louisville
> >
>
> Jeff:
>
February 10, 2004 - February 18, 2004
RV-Archive.digest.vol-ow