RV-Archive.digest.vol-pa
March 07, 2004 - March 17, 2004
> for.
>
> Curt Hoffman
>
> RV-9A Wings done, QB fuselage, tail about done
> Cherokee N5320W
> TR6 back to running with HS6 SUs
> Harley Road King Classic
> Maybe I need a sailboat
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <nyman(at)bellsouth.net>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Band Saws
>
>
> >
> > I am looking for a band saw and I found this one at Harbor Freight.
After
> going thru the archives, it sounds like just about any band saw will work.
> Anyone have experience with Central Machinery brand? Is the following a
good
> deal?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Steve
> >
> > Precision three-wheeled design cuts material up to 12'' wide and makes
> bevel cuts from 0 to 60 Electronic variable speed switch controls the
speed
> of the blade from 0 to 2645 feet per minute. Three ball bearing blade
guide
> system eliminates the blade from slipping. Includes miter gauge, trunion
> assembly, hex wrenches, and extra set of carbon brushes. Blade sold
> separately.
> > Motor: 115V, 3.5 amps, single phase
> > Table: slotted cast aluminum: 13-1/2'' x 13-1/2''
> > Work capacity: 12'' x 4-1/8'' high
> > Requires 62'' blade
> > Overall dimensions: 24-7/8''L x 13-1/2''W x 22-3/4''H
> > Tool weight: 30 lbs.
> > ITEM 40981-5VGA
> > $109.99
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
The need for a metal cutting blade depends what you intend to cut with the
band saw. I have had reasonable success with a simple wood blade when
cutting material up to 3/16" thick when roughing out fittings from 6061
angle and .063 2024 sheet. Thinner stiff bends however.
If you want to cut steel, well a metal cutting blade is pretty much needed.
Equally important as the blade type and teeth per inch is controlling blade
speed - usually with a series of step pulleys. These are what the low end
machines lack and what makes them unsuitable for even semi-serious metal
work.
Jim Oke
RV-3, RV-6A
Winnipeg, MB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Craig Warner" <cwarner(at)twcny.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Band Saws
>
> I bought a Delta bench top band saw for $88 from a local building supply
> store. Take the blade off and go to a machine tool supply house like
Do-All.
> They can recommend theeth per inch, blade width, and thickness. I bought
two
> blades for $16. Just watch out for metal flakes building up on the rubber
> tires the blade rides on. Otherwise it works well.
>
> Craig warner 6A still building
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Curt" <choffman9(at)cinci.rr.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Band Saws
>
>
> >
> > I bought that same band saw many years ago. Very difficult to find metal
> > blades for it. I had to have a few made up special. Then they easily
snap
> > when cutting anything of any significance. I finally sold it for $20
bucks
> > with no blades. Now that I am working on the RV-9 there have only been a
> > couple times when I wish I had one. But not enough to actually go buy
one
> > yet. If I do, I will buy a good one and one that I know there are blades
> > for.
> >
> > Curt Hoffman
> >
> > RV-9A Wings done, QB fuselage, tail about done
> > Cherokee N5320W
> > TR6 back to running with HS6 SUs
> > Harley Road King Classic
> > Maybe I need a sailboat
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <nyman(at)bellsouth.net>
> > To:
> > Subject: RV-List: Band Saws
> >
> >
> > >
> > > I am looking for a band saw and I found this one at Harbor Freight.
> After
> > going thru the archives, it sounds like just about any band saw will
work.
> > Anyone have experience with Central Machinery brand? Is the following a
> good
> > deal?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Steve
> > >
> > > Precision three-wheeled design cuts material up to 12'' wide and makes
> > bevel cuts from 0 to 60 Electronic variable speed switch controls the
> speed
> > of the blade from 0 to 2645 feet per minute. Three ball bearing blade
> guide
> > system eliminates the blade from slipping. Includes miter gauge, trunion
> > assembly, hex wrenches, and extra set of carbon brushes. Blade sold
> > separately.
> > > Motor: 115V, 3.5 amps, single phase
> > > Table: slotted cast aluminum: 13-1/2'' x 13-1/2''
> > > Work capacity: 12'' x 4-1/8'' high
> > > Requires 62'' blade
> > > Overall dimensions: 24-7/8''L x 13-1/2''W x 22-3/4''H
> > > Tool weight: 30 lbs.
> > > ITEM 40981-5VGA
> > > $109.99
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ned Thomas" <315(at)cox.net> |
Hey Charli,
I'm always looking for an excuse to fly:) Can I stop by on my way back from
Sun N Fun and pick it up while meeting a fellow RV enthusiast?
NEd
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie & Tupper England" <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Band Saws
>
> nyman(at)bellsouth.net wrote:
>
> >
> >I am looking for a band saw and I found this one at Harbor Freight.
After going thru the archives, it sounds like just about any band saw will
work. Anyone have experience with Central Machinery brand? Is the following
a good deal?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Steve
> >
> If you want mine (bought about 13 years ago & never made a cut without
> the blade coming off), you can have it if you will come & get it.
>
> Charlie
> Slobovia Outernational Airport, Jackson MS
>
>
> >
> >Precision three-wheeled design cuts material up to 12'' wide and makes
bevel cuts from 0 to 60 Electronic variable speed switch controls the speed
of the blade from 0 to 2645 feet per minute. Three ball bearing blade guide
system eliminates the blade from slipping. Includes miter gauge, trunion
assembly, hex wrenches, and extra set of carbon brushes. Blade sold
separately.
> >Motor: 115V, 3.5 amps, single phase
> >Table: slotted cast aluminum: 13-1/2'' x 13-1/2''
> >Work capacity: 12'' x 4-1/8'' high
> >Requires 62'' blade
> >Overall dimensions: 24-7/8''L x 13-1/2''W x 22-3/4''H
> >Tool weight: 30 lbs.
> >ITEM 40981-5VGA
> >$109.99
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Mcmahon <rv6(at)earthlink.net> |
Anyone out in RV4 land that may know who makes the smallest diameter
alternator for the 0320 ...I have a friend that has the frame of the
unit touching
the cowl ,not the pulley!!! Thanks for any help..
John McMahon RV6 (near paint)
Do Not archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: > Re: Band Saws |
I bought a band saw from Harbor Freight in 1982. I bought it on the phone for
$300.00. A few months later a friend bought the same saw for $169.00. The
same one now is $199.
I have built two RV-4's plus steel tubing hangar doors and sundry other
items. I used the wood cutting blade for all things aluminum,and metal cutting
blade for steel. I'm still using it almost every day.
I have adjusted the wheel angles so the blade stays on OK.
I think it is well worth the money.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV 4 Alternator |
I have a 40 amp B&C alternator that fit my 0-360 RV-4 with plenty of
clearance.
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Mcmahon" <rv6(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: RV 4 Alternator
>
> Anyone out in RV4 land that may know who makes the smallest diameter
> alternator for the 0320 ...I have a friend that has the frame of the
> unit touching
> the cowl ,not the pulley!!! Thanks for any help..
>
> John McMahon RV6 (near paint)
>
> Do Not archive
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Ford" <dford(at)michweb.net> |
| Subject: | intersection fairings |
Am making my own intersection fairings and wondered if the lowers are normally
glassed into the wheel pants and split, or separate and "floating" as the uppers
are?
Dave Ford
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Ford" <dford(at)michweb.net> |
| Subject: | cylinder blocker |
>I'm going to fabricate some .020"
>blockers out of AL, and just rivet them to the lower ramps.
Exactly what I did. I had a 30 degree difference with cyl 1 being the
lowest. Put a 1 inch hi wall in front of the fins on cyl #1 and now in
normal cruise my temps are all same at 335 +- 1 on all cylinders. I never
though getting cyl temps that close was possible.
------
Is it a good idea to make the blocker a 90deg block or more of a 45 or 60deg ramp
to smoothly direct air flow to the rear cylinder?
Dave Ford
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: intersection fairings |
Mine are separate and screwed to the wheel pants with #8 screws and nut
plates on the wheel pants.
-Mike Kraus
N223RV RV-4 Flying
N213RV RV-10 Empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tracy Crook" <lors01(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Light Weight Gear Leg for RV-8 |
I used the Grove aluminum gear on my RV-8. Got the streamlined version so no fairing
is required. Saves about 15 pounds.
Tracy Crook
Any one know of a source for lighter weight gear legs for the RV-8. I have
seen them mentioned in the past, even with brake lines enclosed. L.D.
Jeffries. RV-8QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Odessy Batteries |
Hi All,
I apologize for this message!! I thought I had saved the information on the Odessy
batteries but apparently not. The archives suck so I need to post to the group.
Where is the best place to get the PC860 with the most reasonable shipping costs?
Thanks in advance.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
Doin' the wiring!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Odessy Batteries |
Darwin N. Barrie wrote:
>
>Hi All,
>
>I apologize for this message!! I thought I had saved the information on the Odessy
batteries but apparently not. The archives suck so I need to post to the
group.
>
>Where is the best place to get the PC860 with the most reasonable shipping costs?
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Darwin N. Barrie
>Chandler AZ
>Doin' the wiring!!
>
>
>
>
Try spelling it Odyssey and maybe you won't think the archives suck so
bad. :-)
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Odessy Batteries |
Darwin,
Try . Http://www.batteries4everything in California, USD $62.55 Good
service to me in the land north of the border.
they do have a shipping charge. It didn't seem like all that much to me at
the time.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV-List: Odessy Batteries
>
> Hi All,
>
> I apologize for this message!! I thought I had saved the information on
the Odessy batteries but apparently not. The archives suck so I need to post
to the group.
>
> Where is the best place to get the PC860 with the most reasonable shipping
costs?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Darwin N. Barrie
> Chandler AZ
> Doin' the wiring!!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net (Chris Brooks) |
| Subject: | Re: Air Filter 0-360-A1A |
Are you sure you have the Filter Air Box for the O-360, and not the
O-320? On mine (O-360) the nose of the fiberglass box angles up and the
directions said to notch the sides of the lid and angle the front up to
match.
My FAB contacted the cowl scoop on the left side. I made a new .062
plate mounting plate (the one that bolts to the carb) to shift the FAB
to the right.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tailgummer(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: transducer manifold |
You may consider just plugging the non-used port (may be utilized later??)
and leave it as-is..
Tailgummer RV8 (Finishing)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Odessy Batteries |
Make sure to order on line. If you call to order the price doubles!!!
>
>Darwin,
>
>Try . Http://www.batteries4everything in California, USD $62.55 Good
>service to me in the land north of the border.
>they do have a shipping charge. It didn't seem like all that much to me at
>the time.
>
>Jim in Kelowna
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn(at)cox.net>
>To: ; ;
>
>Subject: RV-List: Odessy Batteries
>
>
>>
>> Hi All,
>>
>> I apologize for this message!! I thought I had saved the information on
>the Odessy batteries but apparently not. The archives suck so I need to post
>to the group.
>>
>> Where is the best place to get the PC860 with the most reasonable shipping
>costs?
>>
>> Thanks in advance.
>>
>> Darwin N. Barrie
>> Chandler AZ
>> Doin' the wiring!!
>>
>>
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Odessy Batteries |
Thanks, I appreciate the tip. Just getting ready to order.
Darwin
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Bilinski" <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Odessy Batteries
<bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
> Make sure to order on line. If you call to order the price doubles!!!
>
>
> >
> >Darwin,
> >
> >Try . Http://www.batteries4everything in California, USD $62.55 Good
> >service to me in the land north of the border.
> >they do have a shipping charge. It didn't seem like all that much to me
at
> >the time.
> >
> >Jim in Kelowna
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn(at)cox.net>
> >To: ; ;
> >
> >Subject: RV-List: Odessy Batteries
> >
> >
> >>
> >> Hi All,
> >>
> >> I apologize for this message!! I thought I had saved the information on
> >the Odessy batteries but apparently not. The archives suck so I need to
post
> >to the group.
> >>
> >> Where is the best place to get the PC860 with the most reasonable
shipping
> >costs?
> >>
> >> Thanks in advance.
> >>
> >> Darwin N. Barrie
> >> Chandler AZ
> >> Doin' the wiring!!
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
> Scott Bilinski
> Eng dept 305
> Phone (858) 657-2536
> Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Odessy Batteries |
$80.09 door to door from Sunn Battery (that was in March of 2003).
Higher price, but just a $5.50 flat shipping fee, which ended up being
cheaper overall than Batteries4Everything, especially for CA buyers (no
tax).
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
(I posted this same exact message I don't know how many times...so DO NOT
ARCHIVE)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Odessy Batteries
>
> Thanks, I appreciate the tip. Just getting ready to order.
>
> Darwin
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Scott Bilinski" <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Odessy Batteries
>
>
> <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
> >
> > Make sure to order on line. If you call to order the price doubles!!!
> >
> >
> > >
> > >Darwin,
> > >
> > >Try . Http://www.batteries4everything in California, USD $62.55 Good
> > >service to me in the land north of the border.
> > >they do have a shipping charge. It didn't seem like all that much to me
> at
> > >the time.
> > >
> > >Jim in Kelowna
> > >
> > >----- Original Message -----
> > >From: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn(at)cox.net>
> > >To: ; ;
> > >
> > >Subject: RV-List: Odessy Batteries
> > >
> > >
> > >>
> > >> Hi All,
> > >>
> > >> I apologize for this message!! I thought I had saved the information
on
> > >the Odessy batteries but apparently not. The archives suck so I need to
> post
> > >to the group.
> > >>
> > >> Where is the best place to get the PC860 with the most reasonable
> shipping
> > >costs?
> > >>
> > >> Thanks in advance.
> > >>
> > >> Darwin N. Barrie
> > >> Chandler AZ
> > >> Doin' the wiring!!
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > Scott Bilinski
> > Eng dept 305
> > Phone (858) 657-2536
> > Pager (858) 502-5190
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Francis Malczynski" <ebbfmm(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | DiVilbiss PLUS Spray Gun for sale. |
I have a DeVilbiss PLUS suction feed spray gun for sale. It includes 1.6 mm
and 1.8 mm tips, a #410 spray cap, and stainless steel cup. Used to paint
one RV6. New it was $289, will sell for $175 and Ill pay shipping to
anywhere in continental US. Please contact off list. Thanks
Fran Malczynski
RV-6 N594EF
Olcott, NY
ebbfmm(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Oil on my windscreen - Part 3 |
Just to finish up the story that started when I noticed oil on
my windscreen a couple of weeks ago.
After doing some research on the web and talking to Bart Lalonde
at Aerosport, it seems like the best adhesive for installing the
crankcase nose seal is a 3M product #847 Scoth-Grip Rubber and
Gasket Adhesive. I know it sticks to skin real well! After
gluing the seal back in, I taped off the area, removed one of the
prop bolt bushings, and drilled and tapped 10-32 holes in the
bosses on the crankcase. I then fabricated some covers out of
0.062 aluminum, bolted them on, and saftied the bolts.
While the plane was down, I also fixed a fuel leak in my gascolator
and replaced a leaking tank drain on my left tank. Finally, I
added a blocking plate on #1 cylinder to try and equalize my CHTs.
Finally got it all back together and took her up on Saturday.
CHTs are much closer, though still a little warm, and no oil
leaks. I'll jerk the cowling off after a couple more hours and
check everything.
As a side note, I noticed that my exhaust bracket between my
two Vetterman exhaust pipes was broken after only 30 hours! I
need to call Larry and order his new kit to hang it from the
engine.
Back to flying.
Doug Medema
RV-6A N276DM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Backer board for interior panels |
Dear All,
I am sprucing up the interior of my RV. One of the things I'm attempting to
do is make it warmer and quieter for my wife.
To that end I have some leather for upholstery, and some foil backed. 3/8
inch foam. I plan to make a sandwich with the leather, foam, and a backer
board.
My question is what to use for a backer board. I have some Luan, but it is
heavy. I'm hoping the list can provide some other ideas for a rigid, light
backer board.
Thanks,
Don Mei
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn(at)cox.net> |
Thanks everyone. After evaluation the cost difference and calculating a UPS shipping
rate I went with Batteries4everything. With the shipping to AZ I saved a
few bucks. Maybe get them a little sooner.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ewspears(at)comcast.net (Esten Spears) |
| Subject: | "We Love RV's" Gathering at Leeward Air Ranch |
You are invited to view a Photo Album from Esten Spears.
Hope you like the RV8/P51 formation shots. It was a real handful for the RV Pilots
since the 25 knot gusts and turbulence pushed them around a lot more than
the P51.
Sign up with Club Photo today and get 25 cent 4x6 prints!
Photo Album:
http://www.clubphoto.com/reward.php?id=2100661&mid=members16_esten814128&pwd
Top 5 reasons to join Club Photo today!
1) Get quality prints from that new digital camera you got
2) Share photos online
3) Send in film, get prints, and share the pictures online
4) Buy great photo gifts for the holidays
You can join today at ...
http://www.clubphoto.com/_cgi-bin/members/sign_up.pl
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Backer board for interior panels |
| From: | "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net> |
I used POLYBOARD Durable, Waterproof Corrugated Polyethylene Board.
Obtained from http://www.airtexinteriors.com/catalogue/misc.htm
Lightweight, Easy to handle, fireproof, cheap.
You can see some results here. Go to finishing/interior
http://www.mstewart.net/michael/rv/index.htm
Good stuff.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Donald Mei
Subject: RV-List: Backer board for interior panels
Dear All,
I am sprucing up the interior of my RV. One of the things I'm attempting
to
do is make it warmer and quieter for my wife.
To that end I have some leather for upholstery, and some foil backed.
3/8
inch foam. I plan to make a sandwich with the leather, foam, and a
backer
board.
My question is what to use for a backer board. I have some Luan, but it
is
heavy. I'm hoping the list can provide some other ideas for a rigid,
light
backer board.
Thanks,
Don Mei
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Re: "We Love RV's" Gathering at Leeward Air Ranch |
Esten,
What state is this Air Park located in? (might consider retiring
there).
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Esten Spears <ewspears(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: "We Love RV's" Gathering at Leeward Air Ranch
>
> You are invited to view a Photo Album from Esten Spears.
>
> Hope you like the RV8/P51 formation shots. It was a real handful for the
RV Pilots since the 25 knot gusts and turbulence pushed them around a lot
more than the P51.
>
> Sign up with Club Photo today and get 25 cent 4x6 prints!
>
> Photo Album:
>
http://www.clubphoto.com/reward.php?id=2100661&mid=members16_esten814128&pwd
> Top 5 reasons to join Club Photo today!
> 1) Get quality prints from that new digital camera you got
> 2) Share photos online
> 3) Send in film, get prints, and share the pictures online
> 4) Buy great photo gifts for the holidays
>
> You can join today at ...
>
> http://www.clubphoto.com/_cgi-bin/members/sign_up.pl
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank Eldridge" <eldridge(at)legis.state.ga.us> |
| Subject: | Re: Safety Concern |
January 1, 2003, I had a forced landing in a RV6A. After a ground roll of about
20 feet in a swampy area the plane ended up on its back. I found myself in
the baggage compartment unhurt. I had always thought that I could kick plexiglass
in the canopy out, but I could not. I always carry a pocket knife with a three
inch locking blade and I was able to take that knife and break a hole in
the canopy to get out. The only blood in the airplane was where I cut my hands
on the plexiglass breaking a larger hole in order to extract myself. I strongly
recommend to all my RV friends that they carry a knife like mine in their
pocket because in my case I could not have got to a tool in the cockpit of the
airplane. I have followed RV accidents very closely since mine, and a large
number wind up on their back. So, please get a knife and keep it in your pocket
when flying an RV. There is a story about my accident posted on Doug Reeves
Van's Air Force Web page. Here is the link to m!
y particular article: http://www.vansairforce.net/articles/FrankEldridge0.pdf
Best of luck,
Frank
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dr. Kevin P. Leathers" <DrLeathers(at)822heal.com> |
Hello RV List,
A friend of mine is looking for a set of Thorp (Lu Sunderland) S18 plans. They
are no longer available separately from the kit. If anyone has a set for sale,
please contact me directly at DrLeathers(at)822HEAL.com
BTW, here is a site with info on the Thorp aircraft http://www.t18.net/about.htm
Thanks
Doc
a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Bearhawk/
b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Bearhawk-unsubscribe(at)yahoogroups.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pcondon" <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
Your adjustment arm and belt may need changing to a smaller belt, not the
alternator. See if using a shorter belt gets the alternator body closer to
the engine.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim and Bev Cone" <jimnbev(at)olypen.com> |
| Subject: | Re: intersection fairings |
On my first two RV's, I made them part of the wheel pant. I plan to do the same
on my third one that is nearing completion.
Jim Cone
3-peat offender
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV 4 Alternator |
I had the problem of the alt hitting the cowl with more than a 2g pull. I
got 2 belts about .5 and 1.0 shorter. Cut off the bolt hole in the alt belt
tension bracket and installed another hole. The alt now is tucked up a
little higher and does not hit anymore.
>
>Your adjustment arm and belt may need changing to a smaller belt, not the
>alternator. See if using a shorter belt gets the alternator body closer to
>the engine.
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Meske <rmeske@gcfn.org> (SquirrelMail authenticated user rmeske) by www.gcfn.org with HTTP; Mon, |
8 Mar 2004 14:47:22.-0500(at)matronics.com (EST)
| Subject: | Re: Safety Concern (NEW Tool for the job) |
Check out the NEW nifty tool for just this purpose at:
www.aircraftextras.com
Rich
>
>
> January 1, 2003, I had a forced landing in a RV6A. After a ground roll
> of about 20 feet in a swampy area the plane ended up on its back. I
> found myself in the baggage compartment unhurt. I had always thought
> that I could kick plexiglass in the canopy out, but I could not. I
> always carry a pocket knife with a three inch locking blade and I was
> able to take that knife and break a hole in the canopy to get out. The
> only blood in the airplane was where I cut my hands on the plexiglass
> breaking a larger hole in order to extract myself. I strongly
> recommend to all my RV friends that they carry a knife like mine in
> their pocket because in my case I could not have got to a tool in the
> cockpit of the airplane. I have followed RV accidents very closely
> since mine, and a large number wind up on their back. So, please get a
> knife and keep it in your pocket when flying an RV. There is a story
> about my accident posted on Doug Reeves Van's Air Force Web page. Here
> is the link to m! y particular article:
> http://www.vansairforce.net/articles/FrankEldridge0.pdf
>
> Best of luck,
>
> Frank
>
>
--
Rich
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank Eldridge" <eldridge(at)legis.state.ga.us> |
| Subject: | Re: Safety Concern |
January 1, 2003, I had a forced landing in a RV6A. After a ground roll of about
20 feet in a swampy area the plane ended up on its back. I found myself in
the baggage compartment unhurt. I had always thought that I could kick plexiglass
in the canopy out, but I could not. I always carry a pocket knife with a three
inch locking blade and I was able to take that knife and break a hole in
the canopy to get out. The only blood in the airplane was where I cut my hands
on the plexiglass breaking a larger hole in order to extract myself. I strongly
recommend to all my RV friends that they carry a knife like mine in their
pocket because in my case I could not have got to a tool in the cockpit of the
airplane. I have followed RV accidents very closely since mine, and a large
number wind up on their back. So, please get a knife and keep it in your pocket
when flying an RV. There is a story about my accident posted on Doug Reeves
Van's Air Force Web page. Here is the link to m!
y particular article: http://www.vansairforce.net/articles/FrankEldridge0.pdf
Best of luck,
Frank
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | experience with prop governor on fresh engine |
I started my engine (AeroSport IO-360-A1B6) for the first time on Saturday,
and everything went perfectly with the exception of the prop (Hartzell C2YK)
not cycling. At 1700 RPM, I pulled the prop control all the way out and
nothing happened after 3 seconds. Back to full forward. Another try,
nothing happened for 5 seconds. Total running time was about 9 minutes.
I figured, and others mentioned, that the likelihood is that oil is still
slowly getting up to the prop hub, and that eventually it'll work. I
temporarily disconnected the end of the prop oil hose and it there was oil
there. Cool, I guess I can live with this for now...look forward to testing
it again on the 2nd run.
Today I ran it for the second time to do some more tests. At 1800 RPM, I
pulled the prop control and held it for 5 seconds, nothing. Repeated that,
nothing. Then, finally on the 3rd try it started to cycle. After a few
cycles, the most I could get it to do was drop from 1800 RPM down to 1650 or
so. That's with the prop control pulled out and held out for several
seconds. Today's engine running time, 6 minutes. Total engine running
time, 15 minutes.
Now...I have to throw out a couple of data points:
a) I have the "new" Jihostroj (aka "MT") prop governor that I bought from
Van's with my FWF kit.
b) Because of limited cable travel, the arm on the governor doesn't hit the
full-out stop. I have the cable adjusted so that the governor arm does hit
the fine pitch stop, but when I pull the control all the way out, it goes
maybe 75% of the way through the arc. Van's FWF instructions mentioned that
it's not critical that the coarse pitch stop be hit...but of course I'm
skeptical.
So here are my questions:
1) I would like to see a bigger RPM drop than 150 RPM! I expect it would be
capable of producing a 500 RPM drop or thereabouts. Is it normal behavior
that a prop hub would take a while to fill up and become responsive? Has
anybody else experienced this, where eventually the hub fills up enough to
be normally responsive? I'd rather not keep running the engine on the
ground if I can avoid it.
2) Does anybody know if Jihostroj or any other supplier makes/sells a
shorter arm for the governor? That would at least rule out the arm travel
issue being the cause.
3) On my next and theoretically final engine run before flight, I'm going to
do a full power run-up. Should I just wait until I do that test to see if
the prop becomes more responsive?
If anybody has any tips before I start diving in deeper please let me know.
Thanks in advance,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Dynon flush mount |
>
>Anyone out there have pictures of the Dynon flush mounted?
>
>Thanks.
>Ken
Go thee here:
http://home.comcast.net/~jwdanie/Panel/panel.html
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: experience with prop governor on fresh engine |
>b) Because of limited cable travel, the arm on the governor doesn't hit the
>full-out stop. I have the cable adjusted so that the governor arm does hit
>the fine pitch stop, but when I pull the control all the way out, it goes
>maybe 75% of the way through the arc. Van's FWF instructions mentioned that
>it's not critical that the coarse pitch stop be hit...but of course I'm
>skeptical.
You should be fine, I have the same govenor but with the WW 151 prop. I used
the "factory demo prop" which was shimmed tightly and it would cycle down in
RPM but did not have enough umph to climb back up to starting RPM. Now I
have my
prop installed and it cycles just fine. This is just an example of a tight prop
and not so tight prop.
>1) I would like to see a bigger RPM drop than 150 RPM! I expect it would be
>capable of producing a 500 RPM drop or thereabouts. Is it normal behavior
>that a prop hub would take a while to fill up and become responsive? Has
>anybody else experienced this, where eventually the hub fills up enough to
>be normally responsive? I'd rather not keep running the engine on the
>ground if I can avoid it.
I bet you need to run it up a little higher on the RPM. New prop could be
stiff, as mentioned above. Try 2k RPM if it does not work there then somethig
is wrong, in my opinion but I am no expert.
>
>2) Does anybody know if Jihostroj or any other supplier makes/sells a
>shorter arm for the governor? That would at least rule out the arm travel
>issue being the cause.
If you need a shorter arm then somehting else is wrong.
>3) On my next and theoretically final engine run before flight, I'm going to
>do a full power run-up. Should I just wait until I do that test to see if
>the prop becomes more responsive?
Full power??? What are you going to tie it to? You are going to tie it down
right? At full power on my 8a I tied it to a tree (a big one) and I drag the
tires and jump the chocks on all three wheels before I even get to full power.
Surprised the rope streached that much!!
>
>If anybody has any tips before I start diving in deeper please let me know.
I am sure that at higher RPM the prop will cycle fiine.....I hope.
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: experience with prop governor on fresh engine |
Beware on take off that if there is air in the govenor system the RPM will
surge and REALLY get your attention. I saw this happen a few weeks back on
a guys rocket. Really got his attention!!
>
>I started my engine (AeroSport IO-360-A1B6) for the first time on Saturday,
>and everything went perfectly with the exception of the prop (Hartzell C2YK)
>not cycling. At 1700 RPM, I pulled the prop control all the way out and
>nothing happened after 3 seconds. Back to full forward. Another try,
>nothing happened for 5 seconds. Total running time was about 9 minutes.
>
>I figured, and others mentioned, that the likelihood is that oil is still
>slowly getting up to the prop hub, and that eventually it'll work. I
>temporarily disconnected the end of the prop oil hose and it there was oil
>there. Cool, I guess I can live with this for now...look forward to testing
>it again on the 2nd run.
>
>Today I ran it for the second time to do some more tests. At 1800 RPM, I
>pulled the prop control and held it for 5 seconds, nothing. Repeated that,
>nothing. Then, finally on the 3rd try it started to cycle. After a few
>cycles, the most I could get it to do was drop from 1800 RPM down to 1650 or
>so. That's with the prop control pulled out and held out for several
>seconds. Today's engine running time, 6 minutes. Total engine running
>time, 15 minutes.
>
>Now...I have to throw out a couple of data points:
>
>a) I have the "new" Jihostroj (aka "MT") prop governor that I bought from
>Van's with my FWF kit.
>
>b) Because of limited cable travel, the arm on the governor doesn't hit the
>full-out stop. I have the cable adjusted so that the governor arm does hit
>the fine pitch stop, but when I pull the control all the way out, it goes
>maybe 75% of the way through the arc. Van's FWF instructions mentioned that
>it's not critical that the coarse pitch stop be hit...but of course I'm
>skeptical.
>
>So here are my questions:
>
>1) I would like to see a bigger RPM drop than 150 RPM! I expect it would be
>capable of producing a 500 RPM drop or thereabouts. Is it normal behavior
>that a prop hub would take a while to fill up and become responsive? Has
>anybody else experienced this, where eventually the hub fills up enough to
>be normally responsive? I'd rather not keep running the engine on the
>ground if I can avoid it.
>
>2) Does anybody know if Jihostroj or any other supplier makes/sells a
>shorter arm for the governor? That would at least rule out the arm travel
>issue being the cause.
>
>3) On my next and theoretically final engine run before flight, I'm going to
>do a full power run-up. Should I just wait until I do that test to see if
>the prop becomes more responsive?
>
>If anybody has any tips before I start diving in deeper please let me know.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon and Marge" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Backer board for interior panels |
Subject: RE: RV-List: Backer board for interior panels
-->
I used POLYBOARD Durable, Waterproof Corrugated Polyethylene Board.
Obtained from http://www.airtexinteriors.com/catalogue/misc.htm
Lightweight, Easy to handle, fireproof, cheap.
You can see some results here. Go to finishing/interior
http://www.mstewart.net/michael/rv/index.htm
Good stuff.
Mike
Mike: I do not believe polyethylene in any form is fireproof. It is a
polymerized hydrocarbon that may have color added. If it is black, the
color is carbon black. If you've ever seen a polyethylene fire you'll
want to be elsewhere. The soot is unbelievable.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | experience with prop governor on fresh engine |
Dan,
First of all, DO NOT fly it unless it works properly on the ground. If the
propr system still has air nasty things can/will happen if you try to fly
it.
Vans is right about the control arm on the prop governor. It does not need
to travel the full length as long as it works OK. At this point it isn't
yet know if it is working ok so I would wait.
Brand new props and the new Jihostrou governor are tight to start out with.
I would suggest doing some more ground run first. Try going up to 2500
and cycling the prop then. And I would tie the plane to something very
heavy first.
Mike Robertson
>From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: experience with prop governor on fresh engine
>Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 12:56:58 -0800
>
>
>I started my engine (AeroSport IO-360-A1B6) for the first time on Saturday,
>and everything went perfectly with the exception of the prop (Hartzell
>C2YK)
>not cycling. At 1700 RPM, I pulled the prop control all the way out and
>nothing happened after 3 seconds. Back to full forward. Another try,
>nothing happened for 5 seconds. Total running time was about 9 minutes.
>
>I figured, and others mentioned, that the likelihood is that oil is still
>slowly getting up to the prop hub, and that eventually it'll work. I
>temporarily disconnected the end of the prop oil hose and it there was oil
>there. Cool, I guess I can live with this for now...look forward to
>testing
>it again on the 2nd run.
>
>Today I ran it for the second time to do some more tests. At 1800 RPM, I
>pulled the prop control and held it for 5 seconds, nothing. Repeated that,
>nothing. Then, finally on the 3rd try it started to cycle. After a few
>cycles, the most I could get it to do was drop from 1800 RPM down to 1650
>or
>so. That's with the prop control pulled out and held out for several
>seconds. Today's engine running time, 6 minutes. Total engine running
>time, 15 minutes.
>
>Now...I have to throw out a couple of data points:
>
>a) I have the "new" Jihostroj (aka "MT") prop governor that I bought from
>Van's with my FWF kit.
>
>b) Because of limited cable travel, the arm on the governor doesn't hit the
>full-out stop. I have the cable adjusted so that the governor arm does hit
>the fine pitch stop, but when I pull the control all the way out, it goes
>maybe 75% of the way through the arc. Van's FWF instructions mentioned
>that
>it's not critical that the coarse pitch stop be hit...but of course I'm
>skeptical.
>
>So here are my questions:
>
>1) I would like to see a bigger RPM drop than 150 RPM! I expect it would
>be
>capable of producing a 500 RPM drop or thereabouts. Is it normal behavior
>that a prop hub would take a while to fill up and become responsive? Has
>anybody else experienced this, where eventually the hub fills up enough to
>be normally responsive? I'd rather not keep running the engine on the
>ground if I can avoid it.
>
>2) Does anybody know if Jihostroj or any other supplier makes/sells a
>shorter arm for the governor? That would at least rule out the arm travel
>issue being the cause.
>
>3) On my next and theoretically final engine run before flight, I'm going
>to
>do a full power run-up. Should I just wait until I do that test to see if
>the prop becomes more responsive?
>
>If anybody has any tips before I start diving in deeper please let me know.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
One-click access to Hotmail from any Web page download MSN Toolbar now!
http://clk.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200413ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: experience with prop governor on fresh engine |
In a message dated 03/08/2004 1:03:05 PM Pacific Standard Time,
dan(at)rvproject.com writes:
At 1700 RPM, I pulled the prop control all the way out and
nothing happened after 3 seconds. Back to full forward. Another try,
nothing happened for 5 seconds. (Stuff Cut)
Today I ran it for the second time to do some more tests. At 1800 RPM, I
pulled the prop control and held it for 5 seconds, nothing. Repeated that,
nothing. Then, finally on the 3rd try it started to cycle. After a few
cycles, the most I could get it to do was drop from 1800 RPM down to 1650 or
so. That's with the prop control pulled out and held out for several
seconds. Today's engine running time, 6 minutes. Total engine running
time, 15 minutes.
Hello Dan,
On the Hartzell and MT Propeller, the hydraulic propeller has a piston that
oil pressure moves in one direction only.
There wouldn't normally be any oil in the oil line, crankshaft or the back
side of the hydraulic propeller piston on a new installation.
Holding the propeller control back will fill the oil line and crankshaft, but
it just pushes the air forward into the propeller hub on the first cycle.
Cycling the prop control several times will purge the air out of the prop hub.
Cycling the prop should be on your checklist as part of the engine run up.
On the Lycoming IO-360 engine in my Cherokee Arrow, before I pulled the power
back after the mag check at 1800 RPM, I would cycle the prop control until I
saw a 500 RPM drop. It usually took two or three cycles for this to occur.
On each cycle, I only held the prop control back briefly before it was in the
high RPM position again.
Jim Ayers
Less Drag Products, Inc.
An OEM Distributor for MT Propeller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | finishing up sequence of events? |
I'm at this stage too. I am planning on using VAN's battery box forward on
my -6A but can anyone tell if there will be an interference problem with the
prop governor planned for my engine? I would like to mount the box and cut
the hole for the cabin heat box prior to mounting the engine. Seems like
best to do that prior to engine mounting.
Marty in Brentwood TN
From: "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: finishing up sequence of events?
Hello,
I am there now....It is sort of a chicken and the egg stage isn't it! Well,
here's
what I am doing:
Check with Van's Web Site as they have some additional notes/instructions
about
mounting the wings, the cowl and I believe
the canopy. Main thing is they say to leave off all the engine doodads as
they
get in the way when mounting the cowl.
I haven't mounted the top deck as I am concentrating on firewall
penetrations in
the vain hope of minimizing the crawling
around inside when the top deck is on.
I have the engine mounted. Some say to wait till you have mounted the
firewall
stuff, but I need the engine on to get an
idea of where everything goes.
I have been held up as I really need to have an idea of the panel before I
proceed.
I have decided on NO
fuel/pressure/copper/etc. lines in the cockpit. NO Vacuum instruments. I
elaborate
as you need to know this before you
start punching holes in the firewall. Everything on the firewall will be
nutplated
so you can imagine trying to do it with
the top deck on. Are you using Lightspeed Electronic Ignition? Then you need
to
have a Manifold Pressure line to it and the
coax cables need to seperated from the return sensor wires. This kind of
circular
detail can drive one crazy!
Another reason I mention the panel is that the side sections (RV-8) of it
are best
dealt with before permanent installation
of the top deck. My ignition switch will go on the right and potentially the
carb/cabin
heat will go on the left. Also if
you can nail down the electrical wire routing (again firewall penetrations)
you
will be ahead of the game. With apologies
to the traditionalists, I am going with Aeroelectric Bob's recommendations.
There are other things you can be doing in parallel such as the upholstery,
seats,
cabin wiring, but you already know that.
So wrapping it all up:
Focus on the firewall and instrument side penetrations (and fuel lines, but
you
probably have already done that).
Mount the top deck
Then pick up with the plans at the Canopy.
Of course, that is the game plan for today. Tomorrow could be another story.
Regards,
Vince Himsl
RV8 - SB Finish
"Aerosport and Lightspeed, but still procrastinating on the canopy"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV8ter(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: finishing up sequence of events?
Engine and finishing kit on the way. So what's the preferred order of events
between now and riveting on the forward top fuse skin? I can see some
things
are on an equal level.
Here's what I'm thinking. No vacuum system for me. I want to put a
Lightspeed on one set of plugs but will wait until after 25 hour fly off.
Mount the engine,
install engine accessories,
fit cowl,
exhaust,
baffles,
oil cooler,
fuel and oil hoses/lines,
throttle, mixture, governor cables from cockpit,
engine monitoring cables and sensors,
finish panel,
???,
cut canopy,
rivet on top skin,
finish front baggage door,
install windscreen,
???
What have I got out of order or am missing?
thanks,
lucky
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
rv-list
Hi
Here is a question for those in the know...
How would I know which prop governor (woodward, hartzell, et all) would
work on a RV with a IO-360 A1B so I don't accidentaly get a feathering
governor or one that goes to fine pitch or one that goes to course pitch
on oil loss, etc.........
Is there a reference list for governors somewhere ???
Thanks
Gert
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Thanks Dan,
That's kinda what I was thinking. Most of the internal regs are hooked up to
both the main diode output and the extra "trio" diodes so I always figured
it started on the main, then kicked over to the trio, while comparing the
two to monitor overall function.
W
W.,
The extra 3 diodes in a pack are called the diode trio (at least in GM
alternators). Its function is to provide power to the field (rotor). By
using
the
trio, there is isolation from the battery in a car where there is no main
relay as in an airplane. In a car the alternator diodes are hot 24/7. The
team
I
was on back in about 1966 (4 of us at Delco Radio in Kokomo, IN plus some in
Anderson, IN at Delco Remy) came up with the idea of putting the idiot light
between the diode trio (field +) and the switched battery, and found that it
detected about 90% of the faults and required no additional circuitry. Some
of
today's regulators are much more sophisticated at detecting faults, and many
regulate off of the trio voltage if the normal voltage sense line gets
unhooked
thereby preventing a complete runaway. Hope this helps explain the 3 extra
diodes.
Dan (Retired electrical automotive engineer)
RV-7A ( almost done
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | RV 10 Tail cone top skins |
For those that have not reached this stage and are concerned about damage to the
bottom of the tail cone when riveting, this worked well for me. In my kit there
was a large sheet of one inch low density board, I cut pieces to fit between
the frames and wide enough to rest on the outboard stiffeners. Then used these
as templates to cut identical pieces of plywood from salvage from the shipping
containers. With the low density foam board on the bottom and the plywood
on top this distributed the weight evenly and gave the piece of mind needed for
this part of the process.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C. RV 10 # 30- Ribs on L/H wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob W M Shipley" <rob(at)robsglass.com> |
| Subject: | Fw: XCOM, Pilot, Lightspeed and customer service. |
Tom Friedland, California, Europa, wrote in the Aeroelectric List:-
Hi Rob and anyone else interested in XCom products.. BEWARE!
I bought an intercom from them and also had them make up a wiring
harness to connect the intercom and switch between two Microair 760s.
The intercom appears to be good, clear, light and small. HOWEVER,
harness they supplied is totally inadequate. First of all, many the
cables were mislabeled which of course meant they were connected
incorrectly by me. I emailed Michael Coates, their honcho, and was told
he would get right back to me. Did he, NO. I then asked him if I could
return the harness to him or at least could he send me a wiring diagram.
NO RESPONSE. I have attempted to contact him many times and asked at
least if he would send back the $$ I had paid for the harness. NO
RESPONSE.
Since then, Microair has sent me a proper wiring diagram and I find that
XCom did it entirely wrong, used the wrong kind of switch, etc.
BEWARE...
This customer feedback is very useful. I have recently suffered at the hands of
Pilot. Their ear seals on my PA17-76 ANR headset had deteriorated markedly
and I emailed them for help since it was within the five year warranty. Unlike
the glowing reports of superior customer service from Lightspeed owners I was
sorely disappointed.
Pilot emailed me saying that everyone knows that ear seals are only good for about
twelve months and that if I want a permanent solution I must send $25 for
the silicone type. I replied that I felt ear seals on a product with a five year
warranty should actually last five years or more. This failed to impress
them and I was sent the old type as a replacement - the ones that "everyone knows
only last a year". Their words! I suppose they are waiting for my check
for $25 sometime next March or April!
As Tom Friedland said about XCOM if you are considering a Pilot product, BEWARE!
Rob
Rob W M Shipley
N919RV (res) Fuselage .....still!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: experience with prop governor on fresh engine |
Got it working tonight, after talking to Ken Balch, Tom Green at Van's, Bart
at AeroSport Power, and after reading various helpful responses (thanks!).
Took off the governor oil hose, blew it out to confirm it wasn't blocked.
Nothing but a little oil came out, and it was clear.
I tweaked the prop cable and governor arm adjustments and got a *tiny* bit
more travel. It now gets maybe 80% of full travel. Tom Green confirmed
that you don't need full governor actuation, as long as the fine pitch stop
is hit.
Then I ran it up to 2000 RPM instead of 1800, and I was getting 400-500 RPM
drops and the prop was much more responsive. Problem seems to have gone
away...not quite sure which of the above factors did it...would have done
more isolation testing if I wasn't trying to minimize ground run-time.
I figure I'm done running this puppy until first flight.
Thanks again for the responses,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: experience with prop governor on fresh engine
> I started my engine (AeroSport IO-360-A1B6) for the first time on
Saturday,
> and everything went perfectly with the exception of the prop (Hartzell
C2YK)
> not cycling. At 1700 RPM, I pulled the prop control all the way out and
> nothing happened after 3 seconds. Back to full forward. Another try,
> nothing happened for 5 seconds. Total running time was about 9 minutes.
>
> I figured, and others mentioned, that the likelihood is that oil is still
> slowly getting up to the prop hub, and that eventually it'll work. I
> temporarily disconnected the end of the prop oil hose and it there was oil
> there. Cool, I guess I can live with this for now...look forward to
testing
> it again on the 2nd run.
>
> Today I ran it for the second time to do some more tests. At 1800 RPM, I
> pulled the prop control and held it for 5 seconds, nothing. Repeated
that,
> nothing. Then, finally on the 3rd try it started to cycle. After a few
> cycles, the most I could get it to do was drop from 1800 RPM down to 1650
or
> so. That's with the prop control pulled out and held out for several
> seconds. Today's engine running time, 6 minutes. Total engine running
> time, 15 minutes.
>
> Now...I have to throw out a couple of data points:
>
> a) I have the "new" Jihostroj (aka "MT") prop governor that I bought from
> Van's with my FWF kit.
>
> b) Because of limited cable travel, the arm on the governor doesn't hit
the
> full-out stop. I have the cable adjusted so that the governor arm does
hit
> the fine pitch stop, but when I pull the control all the way out, it goes
> maybe 75% of the way through the arc. Van's FWF instructions mentioned
that
> it's not critical that the coarse pitch stop be hit...but of course I'm
> skeptical.
>
> So here are my questions:
>
> 1) I would like to see a bigger RPM drop than 150 RPM! I expect it would
be
> capable of producing a 500 RPM drop or thereabouts. Is it normal behavior
> that a prop hub would take a while to fill up and become responsive? Has
> anybody else experienced this, where eventually the hub fills up enough to
> be normally responsive? I'd rather not keep running the engine on the
> ground if I can avoid it.
>
> 2) Does anybody know if Jihostroj or any other supplier makes/sells a
> shorter arm for the governor? That would at least rule out the arm travel
> issue being the cause.
>
> 3) On my next and theoretically final engine run before flight, I'm going
to
> do a full power run-up. Should I just wait until I do that test to see if
> the prop becomes more responsive?
>
> If anybody has any tips before I start diving in deeper please let me
know.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net (Chris Brooks) |
| Subject: | Re: Backer board for interior panels |
I used .016 aluminum
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rudder Trailing Edge Sealant |
| From: | "Jamie Painter" <jdpainter(at)jpainter.org> |
Fellow Listers:
Please bare with me as I am a new builder. I have searched the archives
for an answer to my question by have yet to find it.
I used PC-7 two-part epoxy paste I found at my local Ace Hardware to seal
my -7 rudder trailing edge. I've had some experience with this stuff
before as I used it several several years ago to seal a gas tank leak
(more like pour instead of a leak) in a friend's classic Ford Mustang.
However, I never had to *remove* it from the Mustang tank. In my
overzealous session of sealant application, I used a bit too much and the
sealant oozed up through the holes as I clocoed it together. In
retrospect, I should have clamped the trailing edge very well to squeeze
out the excess sealant or went back after inserting clecoes, remove each
one and wipe it clean.
I, however, did not do this. Now I have this epoxy stuff on my trailing
edge skings. Let me tell you, this stuff is not going anywhere! I even
tried using a little aluminum brissled scuffing brush. The brush did a
helluva job removing alcad but none of the sealant. I figure I can
probably take my die grinder and Scotch Bright wheel to it but I a bit
concerned with the thickness (or lack thereof) of the skin. Also, the
Scotch Bright wheel/pad will not get into the dimpled holes.
I also tried using my deburring bit I got from Cleaveland. This worked
well to get rid of the heavy build-up of sealeant, but in the dimples
where the sealant is hardened on one side of the dimple, the deburring
tool seeems to like the each away at the metal but not at the sealant.
Ok listers, any ideas?
Jamie
RV-7A Rudder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Trainnut01(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Trailing Edge Sealant |
Okay listers one question leeds to another. The text of the empanage
instructions seemed to indicate that the purpose of the sealant in the rudder was
to
help insure a straight trailing edge by holding the edge straight during
riveting. I've been experimenting with various pieces of scrap and have found that
the edge will rivet up "string straight" just by alternating sides with the
rivet heads. Is the sealant really necessary?
Carroll Jernigan
RV-7A Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Thanks for the Info |
Thanks for the info on the Airtex Polyboard. I just ordered it.
Details for any other builders:
48 x 80 sheet is $12
Shipping is $16 for any quantity between 1 and 6 sheets. So if you can
purchase with others it drops delivered cost per sheet.
Don
"All of us need to be reminded that the federal government did not create
the states; the states created the federal government!"---Ronald Reagan
Frustrated with dial-up? Lightning-fast Internet access for as low as
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)QCBC.ORG> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Trailing Edge Sealant |
They make a "paint remover" that says it will remove epoxy.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jamie Painter" <jdpainter(at)jpainter.org>
Subject: RV-List: Rudder Trailing Edge Sealant
>
> Fellow Listers:
>
> Please bare with me as I am a new builder. I have searched the archives
> for an answer to my question by have yet to find it.
>
> I used PC-7 two-part epoxy paste I found at my local Ace Hardware to seal
> my -7 rudder trailing edge. I've had some experience with this stuff
> before as I used it several several years ago to seal a gas tank leak
> (more like pour instead of a leak) in a friend's classic Ford Mustang.
>
> However, I never had to *remove* it from the Mustang tank. In my
> overzealous session of sealant application, I used a bit too much and the
> sealant oozed up through the holes as I clocoed it together. In
> retrospect, I should have clamped the trailing edge very well to squeeze
> out the excess sealant or went back after inserting clecoes, remove each
> one and wipe it clean.
>
> I, however, did not do this. Now I have this epoxy stuff on my trailing
> edge skings. Let me tell you, this stuff is not going anywhere! I even
> tried using a little aluminum brissled scuffing brush. The brush did a
> helluva job removing alcad but none of the sealant. I figure I can
> probably take my die grinder and Scotch Bright wheel to it but I a bit
> concerned with the thickness (or lack thereof) of the skin. Also, the
> Scotch Bright wheel/pad will not get into the dimpled holes.
>
> I also tried using my deburring bit I got from Cleaveland. This worked
> well to get rid of the heavy build-up of sealeant, but in the dimples
> where the sealant is hardened on one side of the dimple, the deburring
> tool seeems to like the each away at the metal but not at the sealant.
>
> Ok listers, any ideas?
>
> Jamie
> RV-7A Rudder
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Very Nice Leather for RV Interiors |
Dear All,
I am trying to gauge the market for a product that I may be able to make
available to builders.
I have access to very nice Leather Hides. These hides are tanned in such a
way that the result is much like the leather in a nice car. They are soft
but durrable.
(I have access to analine leather which is softer and buttery smooth, but
thats not appropriate in an RV where you have to stand on the seat to get
in. The surface of analine leather is porous)
Depending on quantity I would be able to provide the leather to builders for
a cost of anywhere from $150 to $175 per hide. These hides are roughly 50
sq ft. One hide should be more than enough for any 2 seat RV including
Seats, trim, stick boots. If you want to do all the side panels, you may
need 2.
Pretty much any color is available.
Any interest in this??
Best regards,
Don Mei
RV-4
3B9 - Chester, CT
"All of us need to be reminded that the federal government did not create
the states; the states created the federal government!"---Ronald Reagan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dwpetrus(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Safety Concern |
I strongly agree and I carry the mini backpack axe made by Gerber. It has a
composite handle and is a compact and light extraction tool. I have the pouch
rivited to the lower panel and the axe fits perfectly.
Wayne Petrus
RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | BNC fuel tank bulkhead fittings |
| From: | "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net> |
Thought I would provide the list with some recent challenges and finding
of the capacitive sending units from Vans, and more specifically, issues
surrounding the in tank, inboard rib , bulkhead fitting.
My trouble started with irratic fuel tank readings. It was all over the
place from the gage reading "open" circuit, to wrong reading to correct
ones. I replaced the coax, connectors, and so forth and was not able to
find the problem. A phonecall to my buddy Delta A&P mechanic Scott
Solberg revealed a potential risk, the tank bulkhead BNC connector.
Apparently these are common sources of failures in the heavy's and he
suggested I take a look. A closer inspection found that I had in fact,
fuel weeping coming out of the center pin of the connector.
I pulled the tank, pulled the access plate and covered the back of the
fitting with proseal. I remounted the tank. 4 flight hours later,
problem is back, worse than ever.
When I pulled the tank this time, with an intention of replacing the
connector, I noticed the white insulator in the bnc connector was
deteriorated, cracked, and crumbling. Turns out the connector is not
fuel proof and is does dry out and crack. My connector has only been in
the fuel for 2.5 years.
So, I decided there was no sense in replacing the connector with another
one. I was able to push out the center pin of the bulkhead fitting and
pull my 22 gauge wire through it and have it hanging outside the tank. I
prosealed it in place and now have what I feel is a permanent solution
to the problem. The gauge only needs to get the signal from the center
conductor, and have a ground back to the tank.
I did find this bnc connector issue in the archives but do not recall
anyone ever really discussing it. So a word to the wise... Devise a
better method of getting the wire out of the tank other than the bnc
connector. Once the plastic insulator gets fuel on it, it will
deteriorate.
Oh and one more thing. One of my nightmares was getting the screws out
of the mounted tank w/o chipping the tank paint. After chipping paint
off the tank of about 30 screws, I found a solution. A number 6 aluminum
fuel line has the same inside diameter as a number 8 screw head. I took
the tube to the belt sander and sanded a sharp tapered edge so the I
could turn the tube over the screw head and it would cut the paint. This
worked really well and I would recommend this for any first time screw
removal where the screw was painted in place.
Regards,
Michael Stewart
Tank doesn't leak, and the gauge is back working.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BBreckenridge(at)att.net |
| Subject: | RE: RV 10 Tail cone top skins |
Mr. Bowhay;
Why do I get this feeling that your "10" will have a set of floats???!!!
Bruce Breckenridge
40018
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Sneed <n242ds(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Safety Concern |
do you have a picture? where can you get the axe?
On Mar 9, 2004, at 8:54 AM, Dwpetrus(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I strongly agree and I carry the mini backpack axe made by Gerber. It
> has a
> composite handle and is a compact and light extraction tool. I have
> the pouch
> rivited to the lower panel and the axe fits perfectly.
>
> Wayne Petrus
> RV8A
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
Jason Sneed
Commercial Lending Officer
First National Bank and Trust
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Wiegenstein" <N727JW(at)hellerwiegenstein.com> |
| Subject: | Weatherstrip Adhesive |
Just finishing up those last details, and I'm having trouble getting the
weatherstrip in front of the canopy on my -6 tipup to stay in place. I've
tried 3M 8008 weatherstrip adhesive, and also Permatex weatherstrip cement,
but the problem with both is that while they stick well to the metal
structure, they don't adhere well to the rubber. I've cleaned the rubber
before use with AcryliClean, to make sure there's no residue, etc. but still
no luck.
Any recommendations on an adehsive that works, or a better technique? TIA -
John H. Wiegenstein
Hansville, WA
RV-6 #23961 - N727JW (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Weatherstrip Adhesive |
I would bond in place with a silicone that is made specifically for bonding
rubber. If that does not work use a silicone primer such as:
DOW CORNING 1200 RTV PRIME COAT/CLEAR
This stuff makes a big difference.
>
>
>Just finishing up those last details, and I'm having trouble getting the
>weatherstrip in front of the canopy on my -6 tipup to stay in place. I've
>tried 3M 8008 weatherstrip adhesive, and also Permatex weatherstrip cement,
>but the problem with both is that while they stick well to the metal
>structure, they don't adhere well to the rubber. I've cleaned the rubber
>before use with AcryliClean, to make sure there's no residue, etc. but still
>no luck.
>
>Any recommendations on an adehsive that works, or a better technique? TIA -
>
>John H. Wiegenstein
>Hansville, WA
>RV-6 #23961 - N727JW (reserved)
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Imfairings(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: intersection fairings |
Dave,
Mine split on the wheel pant line and are glassed to the wheel pant.
Bob
Fairings-Etc
www.fairings-etc.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Aluminum MT Propeller group buy |
Hi All,
I am just starting a group buy for the aluminum 2 blade MT Propeller for the
Lycoming 360 engine.
I need to have 16 firm orders, so I can place one order for the group.
I am also accepting the names from people that would be interested in a
future group buy.
This is the NEW aluminum 2 blade MT Propeller that does NOT have a midrange
RPM restriction on the Lycoming 360 engine.
The propeller for this group buy is the MTV-15-C/183-402 propeller including
spinner.
The group buy price is $5,350 completely assembled in Southern California
(eliminating $610 to $760 in customer shipping and assembly costs).
Shipping the assembled propeller to the individual customer would be extra.
Typically less than $150 shipped UPS Ground when sent to Florida or
Washington State.
Please respond off list to lessdragcom(at)aol.com
Jim Ayers
Less Drag Products, Inc.
lessdragcom(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | AirVenture Cup Race |
Anyone planning to enter this year's race? The route has changed ... race is
from Dayton to Oshkosh.
Airventure Race 2004
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, NC N910LL
214 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Rob Ray ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Rob Ray
Subject: RV3 pictures...
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/smokyray@yahoo.com.03.09.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Esten Spears" <ewspears(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Leeward Air Ranch |
Chuck,
Leeward Air Ranch is just SE of Ocala, Florida. It is truly RV Heaven. 6250'
X 200' Allweather Turf that's as smooth as a pool table. There have been 30
RV's born at Leeward Air Ranch. just over a hundred residents and over half of
them are either homebuilders or Warbird/Antique Restorers. We have all jigs,
special tools, fixtures, and expertise right here on the airranch to handle most
any aircraft related project.
Esten Spears, RV8A, 80922, N922ES (reserved), Leeward Air Ranch, Ocala, FL
From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: "We Love RV's" Gathering at Leeward Air Ranch
Esten,
What state is this Air Park located in? (might consider retiring
there).
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Esten Spears <ewspears(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: "We Love RV's" Gathering at Leeward Air Ranch
>
> You are invited to view a Photo Album from Esten Spears.
>
> Hope you like the RV8/P51 formation shots. It was a real handful for the
RV Pilots since the 25 knot gusts and turbulence pushed them around a lot
more than the P51.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JW MILLS" <fly-me(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Leeward Air Ranch |
Esten, where will I find your photo album?? Pictures from last Sat's get together??
Started out in my Citabria but my ground speed was 50 mph at 1500 feet.
It would have been a major X-country. I have a six ready to assy and paint.
Sorry I missed out.
JW
----- Original Message -----
From: Esten Spears<mailto:ewspears(at)comcast.net>
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 2004 1:29 PM
Subject: RV-List: RE: Leeward Air Ranch
Chuck,
Leeward Air Ranch is just SE of Ocala, Florida. It is truly RV Heaven. 6250'
X 200' Allweather Turf that's as smooth as a pool table. There have been 30
RV's born at Leeward Air Ranch. just over a hundred residents and over half
of them are either homebuilders or Warbird/Antique Restorers. We have all jigs,
special tools, fixtures, and expertise right here on the airranch to handle
most any aircraft related project.
Esten Spears, RV8A, 80922, N922ES (reserved), Leeward Air Ranch, Ocala, FL
From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com<mailto:crabaut(at)coalinga.com>>
Subject: Re: RV-List: "We Love RV's" Gathering at Leeward Air Ranch
Esten,
What state is this Air Park located in? (might consider retiring
there).
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Esten Spears <ewspears(at)comcast.net<mailto:ewspears(at)comcast.net>>
Subject: RV-List: "We Love RV's" Gathering at Leeward Air Ranch
>
> You are invited to view a Photo Album from Esten Spears.
>
> Hope you like the RV8/P51 formation shots. It was a real handful for the
RV Pilots since the 25 knot gusts and turbulence pushed them around a lot
more than the P51.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ronschreck99(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Backer board for interior panels |
My question is what to use for a backer board. I have some Luan, but it is
heavy. I'm hoping the list can provide some other ideas for a rigid, light
backer board.
Don,
Use the corregated plastic they use for all those unsightly signs that people
stick all over the roadways. (Lose 20 pounds in one week; Earn $$$ at home on
your computer; We buy homes for cash!; etc) The plastic is light, water
resistant, bonds easily to fabric or leather and you will be doing the environment
a favor by removing the signs from the roadway. Signs posted on telephone
poles and on the public right-of-way are illegal and you can remove them with
impunity. Have at it!
Ron Schreck
RV-8
Gold Hill, NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Weatherstrip Adhesive |
I had good luck with 3M 8008 Weather-strip adhesive, but only after
carefully preparing the surfaces. For the rubber weather-strip, I wiped the
bonding surface with acetone, scrubbed with (grey) Scotchbrite and wiped
with acetone, again. The rubber gasket on my -4 canopy has been on for
about 2 years and still seems well-bonded.
Good luck,
Dean
>From: "John Wiegenstein" <N727JW(at)hellerwiegenstein.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Weatherstrip Adhesive
>Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 08:02:12 -0800
>
>
>
>Just finishing up those last details, and I'm having trouble getting the
>weatherstrip in front of the canopy on my -6 tipup to stay in place. I've
>tried 3M 8008 weatherstrip adhesive, and also Permatex weatherstrip cement,
>but the problem with both is that while they stick well to the metal
>structure, they don't adhere well to the rubber. I've cleaned the rubber
>before use with AcryliClean, to make sure there's no residue, etc. but
>still
>no luck.
>
>Any recommendations on an adehsive that works, or a better technique? TIA
>-
>
>John H. Wiegenstein
>Hansville, WA
>RV-6 #23961 - N727JW (reserved)
>
>
Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee when you click here.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
"'pilots2(at)yahoo.com'"
Hey Bilinski,
your 21 years got stolen right out of my hangar by some guy named Reuven
Silberman?
pilots2(at)yahoo.com
ain't life a bitch
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | P M Condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
From: Gert <gert(at)execpc.com>
rv-list
Subject: RV-List: prop governor
Check with your prop/governer rebuilder. I have purchased many cheap (200/300$)
governers and had them reconfigured for my application by
the prop shop. There are interchangable bleed and bypass orfices, check valves,
counter weights that can be matched for your application.
In my case, I told my rebuilder that I have a certain model Hart$ell prop with
a lycoming 260hp 0-540. He matched up the innerds of the
governer, verivied all bearings and declaired it airworthy and it workes fine.
I got a Pesto brand, which is the same as a Woodward (or
Garwin) in that Woodward purchased the rights from Pesto and Garwin and others
for manufacture under the Woodward name.....most of the
internal parts are interchangable, reversable and seldom wear out in that they
are bathed in oil all the time.
Locate some used rebuildable cores, verify the model number with a rebuilder and
your engine/prop application to see if the core is
useable in you specific circumstance. Found my cores on Barnstormers and E-bay,
Mikes Pro-Prop in Pennsylvania rebuilt them for me. If
memory serves, I paid about 225 for a core and another 195 dollars for the rebuild.
(Not a FAA/PMA/TSO/Certified Yellow taged/Certified
Paper trail/taged item....the governer had a repair tag only from the rebuilder).
In my case and application it worked out great to get a
working, calabrated and useable governer for about 400 dollars total..
How would I know which prop governor (woodward, hartzell, et all) would
work on a RV with a IO-360 A1B so I don't accidentaly get a feathering
governor or one that goes to fine pitch or one that goes to course pitch
on oil loss, etc.........
Is there a reference list for governors somewhere ???
Thanks
Gert
________________________________________________________________________________
Which one is he? Oh yea, the goof ball in front of Steve. Ok he has it for
one month then he is on my list!!
http://www.sdccd.net/public/events/we/Online/May2003/flyboys.jpg
>
>Hey Bilinski,
>
>your 21 years got stolen right out of my hangar by some guy named Reuven
>Silberman?
>
>pilots2(at)yahoo.com
>
>ain't life a bitch
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: >Re:Wing Attach Questions |
With a Nyloc nut you should have at least one thread through the nut(As
previously stated,be able to catch your fingernail on it). You must not have more
than four threads showing(The nut will be bottomed on the threads).
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Mckenna" <mmckenna(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | BNC fuel tank bulkhead fittings |
Mike,
Sorry to here about this. Glad you have solved the problem.
When you get a chance would you please send me a few of the air to air
photo's Mitchell took on the Kentucky trip?
Thanks,
Mike Mckenna
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Stewart, Michael
(ISS Atlanta)
Subject: RV-List: BNC fuel tank bulkhead fittings
Thought I would provide the list with some recent challenges and finding
of the capacitive sending units from Vans, and more specifically, issues
surrounding the in tank, inboard rib , bulkhead fitting.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Ford" <dford(at)michweb.net> |
| Subject: | Aligning gear leg fairings |
If you flew your airplane without gear leg fairings and it flew straight--without
needing rudder trim, then you "aligned" and strapped on leg fairings and now
you need right rudder all of a sudden, which way would you turn the trailing
edge of the fairings, from the pilots perspective? (Of course I'm asking this
for a friend--yea thats it)
Dave Ford
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: [ Rob Ray ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Paul Parashak <pavel_gaijin(at)yahoo.com> |
I notice that it was placarded for non-aerobatics only. Why would that be?
Is it something common in RV-3s that I should have known about?
Regards,
Paul
RV-7 or 8 preview plans stage
On 3/9/04 09:44, "Email List Photo Shares" wrote:
>
>
>
> A new Email List Photo Share is available:
>
> Poster: Rob Ray
>
>
> Subject: RV3 pictures...
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/smokyray@yahoo.com.03.09.2004/index.html
>
>
> o Main Photo Share Index
>
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
>
> o Submitting a Photo Share
>
> If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
> following information along with your email message and files:
>
> 1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
> 2) Your Full Name:
> 3) Your Email Address:
> 4) One line Subject description:
> 5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
> 6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
>
> Email the information above and your files and photos to:
>
> pictures(at)matronics.com
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Aligning gear leg fairings |
They would turn just like the wheels of a car. If you want them to turn
right (so you won't have to hold the rudder) turn them to the right (trailing edge
to the left). That's a lot of reversals!
Dan RV-7A (almost done)
In a message dated 3/9/04 9:00:55 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
dford(at)michweb.net writes:
>
>
> If you flew your airplane without gear leg fairings and it flew
> straight--without needing rudder trim, then you "aligned" and strapped on leg
fairings
> and now you need right rudder all of a sudden, which way would you turn the
> trailing edge of the fairings, from the pilots perspective? (Of course I'm
> asking this for a friend--yea thats it)
>
> Dave Ford
> RV6
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Backer board for interior panels |
I am going to do mine, too. I made panels of 1/2 inch foil backed foam and
have cut material, thin cloth (light wt) and was not planning any "backer
board". Do I need it?
hal
At 09:26 AM 3/8/2004, you wrote:
>
>Dear All,
>
>I am sprucing up the interior of my RV. One of the things I'm attempting to
>do is make it warmer and quieter for my wife.
>
>To that end I have some leather for upholstery, and some foil backed. 3/8
>inch foam. I plan to make a sandwich with the leather, foam, and a backer
>board.
>
>My question is what to use for a backer board. I have some Luan, but it is
>heavy. I'm hoping the list can provide some other ideas for a rigid, light
>backer board.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Don Mei
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Attach Questions... |
Bolt can go in either way. With the 6A some *MUST* go in facing opposite
of convention as I recall. In any case, convention is nut aft if there are
no other restrictions.
Washer under nut, usually, since the turning nut would otherwise scratch
the member. Washer under bolt head if turning the bolt to tighten. No
black magic, just protect the expensive part from being scored and
scratched with a cheap washer.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy(at)att.net> |
Just received a Dynon EFIS D-10 (shielded) harness, ALTRAK Altitude Hold Auto-Pilot
harness and Trio Avionics EZ Pilot (wing-leveler auto-pilot) harness from
SteinAir today. The quality is OUTSTANDING!!!! And to top it off... the prices
for the harnesses were less than what it would have cost me in material alone,
not to mention the time and aggravation to wire them myself.... I'm somewhat
"electronically challenged".
I highly recommend anyone needing a harness for your Dynon, ALTRAK, or EZ Pilot contact Stein. I could have wired these harnesses myself..... but why?. At the prices he charges and quality of the harnesses... I am $$$ and time ahead by ordering them from SteinAir (www.steinair.com).
The customer support is the best I have ever experienced. Stein actually made
all my harnesses and shipped them out within 24 hours of placing the order.
(Dynon harness was on the shelf... but the ALTRAK and EZ Pilot harnesses were
built within hours of my order and shipped the very next day!)
SteinAir is now offering Toggle Switch Covers in a variety of colors (black, red,
white, yellow and green). They really dress of the panel and make identifying
toggle switches easier than reading placards and labels. Again, the price
is right. The covers are listed on the website under SWITCHES.
I can't say enough good things about SteinAir. The service/customer support is
superb and the harnesses are AWESOME!!!! Very professional. Stein is also a
fellow RV builder/owner (repeat offender with 2 RV-6s) and I think we should
all support these guys every chance we get.
Sorry to rant.... I just had to publically show my appreciation to a guy in this
business who deserves some KUDOS for a job well done.
Jack Lockamy
Camarillo, CA
RV-7A wiring (seeing the light at the end of the tunnel.... Thanks Stein!)
NOTE: I am not affiliated with SteinAir. Just a very satisfied customer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Fogerson" <rickf(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | RV3/4 Round cowl inlet size |
Hi Listers,
I'm considering using round cowl inlets and an aluminum plenum on my RV3 with an
0320. Does anyone know the proper dia. of a round inlet and how this compares
to the size/area of Van's std oblong inlet.
Thanks,
Rick Fogerson
RV3 engine baffling
Boise, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV3/4 Round cowl inlet size |
The number I just read was outlet is 78% smaller than inlet.
>
>Hi Listers,
>I'm considering using round cowl inlets and an aluminum plenum on my RV3
>with an 0320. Does anyone know the proper dia. of a round inlet and how
>this compares to the size/area of Van's std oblong inlet.
>Thanks,
>Rick Fogerson
>RV3 engine baffling
>Boise, ID
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Huft <aflyer(at)direcway.com> |
| Subject: | RV3/4 Round cowl inlet size |
Call Dave Anders at (559) 627-3375. He has it all worked out and sells the
machined rings for each size engine.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rick Fogerson
Subject: RV-List: RV3/4 Round cowl inlet size
Hi Listers,
I'm considering using round cowl inlets and an aluminum plenum on my RV3
with an 0320. Does anyone know the proper dia. of a round inlet and how
this compares to the size/area of Van's std oblong inlet.
Thanks,
Rick Fogerson
RV3 engine baffling
Boise, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pcondon" <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | RV-List Digest Shipping Heavy stuff - Good idea (Cheap way to |
ship & Move heavy items)
Some may be aware of this concept in shipping large, heavy boxes or
engines....I wasn't until I read this post from the Zenair list. It involves
use of a shipping broker, (like a travel agent for boxes). Also, I too have
used the home depo stake bed truck for aviation related local moves of heavy
stuff. Can't beat the price. I moved a heavy engine from the hanger to the
house for about 23$. I timed the use of the truck with some heavy item I
purchased from Home Depo..I recall I purchased a pallet of mulch last
spring; really didn't need the mulch, but I needed the engine home and the
mulch was heavy enough to rent the truck from Home Depo.
...................repost.................... Shipping Broker
Idea.............................
Occasionally, those of us in the Homebuilt Aircraft world, find a need to
ship something too large or heavy to send by UPS. Then you start calling
Freight Companies only to find that the charges are more than what the item
being shipped cost. I thought I would relate my experience with this and
offer some tips to make the process more bearable for others.
I bought my Corvair engine from a guy in New Hampshire. Since it weighs
somewhere between 250-300 pounds with the pallet, I knew UPS wasn't going to
touch it. My first call to a Freight Company yielded a quote of $500. They
also acted like I was bothering them with my request for a residential
shipment. I made a couple of other calls that didn't go much better.
A web search turned up some companies that are Freight Brokers. "What the
heck is a Freight Broker?" was my first question. Apparently, they are like
a travel agent for freight. Since they deal with many shipments a day,
versus the few we do in a lifetime, they get a discount and we don't.
I guess this is going to turn out as an advertisement, but I don't mind
blowing someone's horn if I'm happy with their service/product. I ended up
using Freight Quote to arrange my shipping. Wylie Yates was my advisor with
this and he helped me get the cost down to $190. Wylie's number is
800-323-5441 ext. 1761. If you call him, let him know that Randy Stout told
you about Freight Quote. BTW, I get nothing for this. I just told him that
if I were happy with everything, I would put the word out.
One of the biggest money savers in shipping is to get away from the
Residential to Residential shipment. Some of these guys charge over $100
just to go to a residence. It's even more if they have to have a lift on the
truck. That's $100 + on both ends if it's residential to residential.
I think the best deal is to drop off and pick up at the terminal. Even if
you are ordering your kit from Zenith or another business, you can request a
terminal pick up. This is great if you have a pickup (if it will fit) or a
trailer. They will usually load it in the truck for you at the terminal. A
case of beer and a few friends will usually get it off the truck later. Uhh,
don't bring out the beer until they get the truck unloaded.
If you don't have a truck or trailer, and can't find someone to loan you
one, check out Home Depot. Most of them have a flat bed truck you can rent
by the hour for $20 or so. Even U-haul is cheaper than a residential
delivery
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Sneed <n242ds(at)cox.net> |
POKER RUN
When: Saturday, March 13th, 2004
8am =96 12 noon
Where: Bessemer, AL (EKY)
Who: Bessemer Pilots Association
Cost: $10.00
The Bessemer Pilots Association will be having a March Poker Run. The
event is open to any and all interested. The airports of the Poker Run
will be:
Pell City (PLR 2.98) (Sammies restaurant)
Hartselle (5M0 2.05)
Cullman (3A1 2.25)
Jasper (JFX 2.76)
Bessemer (EKY 2.87)
You may start at any airport, but you MUST end at Bessemer. At each
airport, stop by the FBO and pickup a card and sign the airport=92s Poker
Run Log. When you turn in your cards at Bessemer, you can pay the $10
registration fee which includes lunch. All proceeds will be placed
in a pot which will be awarded to the pilot with the best hand. Pilots
are encouraged to bring a friend and introduce them to the joys of
General Aviation. They may register for a hand as well, but all
players are limited to one (1) hand.
For questions, email Glenn Wilson at pilot(at)ekybpa.org or check out our
website at: http://www.ekybpa.org/
Jason Sneed
Commercial Lending Officer
First National Bank and Trust
www.highland-parks.com/n242ds/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV6 slider defrosters |
to the 6 slider drivers...especially in the Northern climates.
Have some "muffin" fans that I purchased a couple of years ago that were
intended for installation in the top forward skin just aft of the windscreen on
my
6 slider for clearing the windscreen on cold days. Have the wiring
etc.finished and will soon be putting the top forward skin on. Now am flip/flopping
on
the need for the fans. Would appreciate comments/advise on the merits of
putting the in the fans.
Dale Ensing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV-7A Painter needed |
Is there an experienced RV painter in the Indianapolis or Northern Indiana
area who would like the job of painting my RV-7A? It has not flown yet, and I
can bring you all the parts on a trailer.
Dan Hopper (located near Grissom ARB in North Central IN)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie & Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Alternate pitot location (was [Fwd: RE: [BD4] Heated Pitot] ) |
Thought this might be of interest as a backup pitot location. The
cooling plenum location has been tested by a RV repeat offender & it
worked for him. Since it works on more than one airframe, I thought it
worth mentioning.
I'll let him chime in if he's willing.
Charlie
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: RE: [BD4] Heated Pitot
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 00:17:13 -0800
From: Steve Mahoney <mahoney(at)viclink.com>
<bd4@northwest-aero.com>
Craig,
In regards to Pitot heat.I built one that consumes no electrical power.
I too had some of the same concerns about the current draw and running
those big heavy wires that far out on the wing. Besides that, those
heated pitot tubes are big and add drag. I too fly IFR (some) I pick my
battles very carefully as the BD is a hand full for me in actual
conditions and I really don;t have that much IFR time in it yet. I
< snipped>
Enough story ........and on to the details of problem solving ..... I
noted some time back that when I was doing cooling tests, I installed a
small pitot tube in the front right air inlet to make some
pressure measurements and this location mapped almost perfectly to my
airspeed indicator, even at slow speed and high angles of attack. So I
made one out of brass, as this conducts heat very well and stuck it
between the fins on the forward cylinder. I have a small switch so I can
select the airspeed indicator source from either the heated Cylinder or
the pitot tube on the wing. It works well for me as my air inlets are
oversized and thus map to the airspeed indicator fairly closely.
Consumes no Juice .
I will try the post a copy of pictures of this on the web at bd-4.org
Steve Mahoney
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jordan Grant" <gra9933(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Audio Isolation Amplifier in my intercom system |
Listers:
I built and installed the monophonic version of the Audio Isolation
Amplifier that was designed by Bob Knuckolls. I connected its output to the
input of my Flightcom intercom. Unfortunately, it doesn't seem to work for
me. Has anyone out there built the monophonic version with success? Can
anyone tell me how I can troubleshoot it to see what is wrong?
Thanks,
Jordan Grant
RV-6 wiring
N198G Reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BillRVSIX(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Gretz Electric elevator trim Travel question. |
Hello IM in need of some help I have installed the Gretz Aero electric
elevator trim kit and I can't get the correct throw in the elevator trim tab. As
per
van's instructions I need 35 Degrees up and 25 down the best I can seem to do
is 20 up and 15 down I have played around with different size horns but with
little luck. I went threw the archive's and saw others with the same problem
but didn't see a solution to solve the problem. If someone has come up with a
solution for this problem or tell me what I might of missed I would appreciate
it. Thanks
Bill H
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RV6 slider defrosters |
> to the 6 slider drivers...especially in the Northern climates.
>
> Have some "muffin" fans that I purchased a couple of years
> ago that were
> intended for installation in the top forward skin just aft of
> the windscreen on my
> 6 slider for clearing the windscreen on cold days. Have the wiring
> etc.finished and will soon be putting the top forward skin
> on. Now am flip/flopping on
> the need for the fans. Would appreciate comments/advise on
> the merits of
> putting the in the fans.
> Dale Ensing
Dale, put them in. I find that they are necessary when the temp is
below 10F, particularly when there are two souls on board.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 443 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
| Subject: | Gretz Electric elevator trim Travel question. |
There is no reason for the travel to change since you are using the same
servo. The only thing that comes to mind is the hole in the elevator
spar for the cable. As the elevator moves up and down, is the cable
binding and hitting the hole opening as it moves? I recall having that
problem when Installing mine some time ago and had to elongate the hole
for it to work properly.
Mike Nellis
RV-6 Fuselage N699BM
1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K
http://bmnellis.com
*** -----Original Message-----
*** From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
*** [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
*** BillRVSIX(at)aol.com
*** Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2004 6:12 PM
*** To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
*** Subject: RV-List: Gretz Electric elevator trim Travel question.
***
***
***
*** Hello IM in need of some help I have installed the Gretz
*** Aero electric
*** elevator trim kit and I can't get the correct throw in the
*** elevator trim tab. As per
*** van's instructions I need 35 Degrees up and 25 down the
*** best I can seem to do
*** is 20 up and 15 down I have played around with different
*** size horns but with
*** little luck. I went threw the archive's and saw others with
*** the same problem
*** but didn't see a solution to solve the problem. If someone
*** has come up with a
*** solution for this problem or tell me what I might of missed
*** I would appreciate
*** it. Thanks
***
*** Bill H
***
*** RV-6
***
***
*** =============
*** Matronics Forums.
*** =============
*** =============
*** =============
***
***
***
***
***
***
***
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gretz Electric elevator trim Travel question. |
Hmmmmm
those values sound like the ones for the elevator, not the elevator trim
tab. haven't seen actual rec's for the *trim tab*
Gert
BillRVSIX(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Hello IM in need of some help I have installed the Gretz Aero electric
> elevator trim kit and I can't get the correct throw in the elevator trim tab.
As per
> van's instructions I need 35 Degrees up and 25 down the best I can seem to do
> is 20 up and 15 down I have played around with different size horns but with
> little luck. I went threw the archive's and saw others with the same problem
> but didn't see a solution to solve the problem. If someone has come up with a
> solution for this problem or tell me what I might of missed I would appreciate
> it. Thanks
>
> Bill H
>
> RV-6
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com> |
| Subject: | RV6 slider defrosters |
Alex:
Where did you mount your fans?? I am considering mounting mine just under
the top forward skin just aft of the windscreen, but I am concerned about
the magnets in the motors. Can I assume that even if you have one on each
side of a possible compass mounted on the rollbar support and equal
distances from the midline of the airplane, that there still would be some
trouble with compass errors?
This brings up another question..... Does the compass heading readout in
the Dynon satisfy the Feds regarding the compass requirement?
Thanks in advance
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
panel
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV6 slider defrosters
>
> > to the 6 slider drivers...especially in the Northern climates.
> >
> > Have some "muffin" fans that I purchased a couple of years
> > ago that were
> > intended for installation in the top forward skin just aft of
> > the windscreen on my
> > 6 slider for clearing the windscreen on cold days. Have the wiring
> > etc.finished and will soon be putting the top forward skin
> > on. Now am flip/flopping on
> > the need for the fans. Would appreciate comments/advise on
> > the merits of
> > putting the in the fans.
> > Dale Ensing
>
> Dale, put them in. I find that they are necessary when the temp is
> below 10F, particularly when there are two souls on board.
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> RV6-A N66AP 443 hours
> http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 slider defrosters |
I'd recommend them for sure. I wouldn't be comfortable flying in cold
weather without some kind of defroster, and that's just with one person on
board. They're fairly light and they don't cost much. They work very well in
simple "freestanding" mode like most people install them - you don't really
need to duct any heat to them. I generally still leave the canopy cracked
until I'm warmed up and ready for taxi. I keep the vent open a bit as well
just to keep lots of airflow until I'm airborne. Once in the air the canopy
clears right up and the fans aren't even required, though I still keep them
on. Coldest flight so far -29F.
I don't know how long they will last though. Mine are from the surplus store
and don't sound as healthy as they used to. I think they were designed for
the easy life of a heated office, and here we are using them in a cold
airplane, pulling 6Gs with a shaky 'ol Lyc up front. Mine are still working
so far.
Curt
----- Original Message -----
From: <DWENSING(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV6 slider defrosters
>
> to the 6 slider drivers...especially in the Northern climates.
>
> Have some "muffin" fans that I purchased a couple of years ago that were
> intended for installation in the top forward skin just aft of the
windscreen on my
> 6 slider for clearing the windscreen on cold days. Have the wiring
> etc.finished and will soon be putting the top forward skin on. Now am
flip/flopping on
> the need for the fans. Would appreciate comments/advise on the merits of
> putting the in the fans.
> Dale Ensing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John D. Heath" <altoq(at)direcway.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gretz Electric elevator trim Travel question. |
25 Degrees TAB UP travel.....................35 Degrees TAB DOWN Travel
The manual trim TAB geometery is diffrent than Electric trim.
Distance from the hindge pin to the Linkage atachment hole is shorter for
electric trim.
Check for linkage interferrence and proper alignment of the trim servo
motor.
John D
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gert" <gert(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Gretz Electric elevator trim Travel question.
>
> Hmmmmm
>
> those values sound like the ones for the elevator, not the elevator trim
> tab. haven't seen actual rec's for the *trim tab*
>
> Gert
>
> BillRVSIX(at)aol.com wrote:
> >
> > Hello IM in need of some help I have installed the Gretz Aero electric
> > elevator trim kit and I can't get the correct throw in the elevator trim
tab. As per
> > van's instructions I need 35 Degrees up and 25 down the best I can seem
to do
> > is 20 up and 15 down I have played around with different size horns but
with
> > little luck. I went threw the archive's and saw others with the same
problem
> > but didn't see a solution to solve the problem. If someone has come up
with a
> > solution for this problem or tell me what I might of missed I would
appreciate
> > it. Thanks
> >
> > Bill H
> >
> > RV-6
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
> is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: RV 10 Tail cone top skins |
Hi Bruce:
If I was twenty years younger, it would be an option but now it will not
happen. I said that when the 6A was finished that would be my last project.
That all changed when I had the opportunity to fly the RV 10 at Van's
Homecoming. I asked myself "why are you considering building the 10", well
after flying it I knew that if I didn't I would be regretting it for the
rest of my life.
When I received my emp- tail cone kit and started to work on it I realized
that this was going to be a joy to build. After building two slow builds the
difference is unbelievable, the way it all goes together with the
pre-punching and such a great manual I look forward to heading to the shop
every morning, it almost feels like I am cheating.
Anyway hoping my health holds out and energy keeps up it would be a great
way to celebrate my eighty-first birthday next year by flying the 10 on that
day.
Eustace
----- Original Message -----
From: <BBreckenridge(at)att.net>
Subject: RV-List: RE: RV 10 Tail cone top skins
>
> Mr. Bowhay;
>
> Why do I get this feeling that your "10" will have a set of floats???!!!
>
> Bruce Breckenridge
> 40018
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
| Subject: | Dynon/Trio report |
http://www.miramarcollege.net/programs/avim/faculty/north/gauges/index.htm
is a simple website I made of a GNS 430, a Dynon D-10 and the Trio EZ pilot
shooting a localizer approach in really gusty conditions.
The Dynon D-10 is displaying the OAT screen with the OAT/Density
Altitude/True Airspeed data on the left info screen.
The OAT probe needed no offset factor as it read right on with the offset at
zero. I'll need to fly it a while in smoother air to see if the TAS is
similar to the steam gauge. It seemed a little off today, but I was really
getting keel hauled up there today.
The pics also show the GPS having some inaccuracies compared to a localizer.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim and Bev Cone" <jimnbev(at)olypen.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Attach Questions... |
You need one and one half threads showing past the nut.
BTW, an easy way to get the bolts in is to use a rivet gun with a smooth set to
drive them in. It beats hammering on them and they go right in.
Jim Cone
3-peat offender
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jakent(at)unison.ie |
| Subject: | Gretz trim servo travel |
The trim tab horn is shorter for the electric trim. Remember the servo only has
1.2 inch travel and the cable travels more than this with the manual trim.
If, as in my case, changing he horn is too much metal butchery, then do as I did
and instal a ratio arm (lever) between the servo and cable end. On my RV-4
it let me get full tab travel and also let me reverse the direction of the servo
to make a neater installation. Just do the maths for the correct lever ratios.
John Kent (Ireland)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jakent(at)unison.ie |
| Subject: | Gretz trim Mod (addendum) |
Almost forgot to mention - getting full travel by the ratio lever will speed up
the tab movement - not what you want at flaps-up speeds - you will need one of
Matt's governors (or similar) to slow things down in the high speed regime.
Good luck ! John Kent.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dynon/Trio report |
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Nice.
Is the OAT available now or are you a beta tester?
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Wheeler North said:
>
> http://www.miramarcollege.net/programs/avim/faculty/north/gauges/index.htm
>
> is a simple website I made of a GNS 430, a Dynon D-10 and the Trio EZ
> pilot
> shooting a localizer approach in really gusty conditions.
>
> The Dynon D-10 is displaying the OAT screen with the OAT/Density
> Altitude/True Airspeed data on the left info screen.
>
> The OAT probe needed no offset factor as it read right on with the offset
> at
> zero. I'll need to fly it a while in smoother air to see if the TAS is
> similar to the steam gauge. It seemed a little off today, but I was really
> getting keel hauled up there today.
>
> The pics also show the GPS having some inaccuracies compared to a
> localizer.
>
> W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | N8WV Upgrades... |
vansairforce
I've just updated my upgrades page if anyone is interested:
http://www.vondane.com/rv8a/finish/finish13.htm
Got my new panel back from Ross at Experimental Air -
www.experimentalair.com, and it looks great!
-Bill VonDane
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Shipping kits from Van's |
I signed up on the Freight Quote website last night ( www.freightquote.com )
and entered the 320# wt and 97"X48"X28" of my RV-6 Finish Kit, used "Freight
class of 150 (whatever that is). Went thru the "free quote" routine and
noted cost - looked good. I got an e-mail last night saying I'd get a call
today. This morning I received a call from one of their reps, Jim Siders,
1-800-323-5441, Ext 1812, and we settled on "Van's dock to my residence" for
$370 (instead of $395 to a terminal 10 miles away) . Job will be done by
Bullet Freight.
Van's would have used ABF and shipped "Van's to ABF Terminal" 10 miles from
my house for $395 and I'd have to scrounge a truck or trailer to pick the
crate up at the terminal and unload at my house.
So, I save a litle bit in money and save more in time and effort by having
it come direct to my home.
I would have done terminal to terminal and saved even more except that
Bullet has no terminal in my area. The next lowest price from Freight Quote
was SAIA. They have a terminal here and would have charged $354 for "Van's
to terminal" with me picking up at terminal. Would have saved me only $16
over Bullet bringing it to my door - not worth the extra work by me.
I made final payment Monday, Van's was posting payments today, and will put
my kit out for crating later today to be ready for pickup next week.
Barbara has no problem with us choosing our own shipping company. She just
needs a name & number to call to request pickup. I paid Freight Quote
today. Very little effort or time spent.
David
----- Original Message -----
From: "pcondon" <pcondon(at)mitre.org>
Subject: RV-List: RV-List Digest Shipping Heavy stuff - Good idea (Cheap way
to ship & Move heavy items)
>
> I ended up
> using Freight Quote to arrange my shipping. . Wylie's number is
> 800-323-5441 ext. 1761. If you call him, let him know that Randy Stout
told
> you about Freight Quote. BTW, I get nothing for this. I just told him that
> if I were happy with everything, I would put the word out.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Sneed <n242ds(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Non-RV related Hanger related |
I am thinking about buying a 3000 square foot hanger and I was
wondering if you guys that know something about metal buildings could
give me a price per square foot for metal buildings. It has the more
expensive electric folding door. I am just looking for an estimate. It
is built on concrete and has a slab in front of the hanger also.
Thanks
Jason Sneed
RV-6 (may be getting a new home)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Shipping kits from Van's |
David Carter wrote:
>
> I signed up on the Freight Quote website last night ( www.freightquote.com )
> and entered the 320# wt and 97"X48"X28" of my RV-6 Finish Kit, used "Freight
> class of 150 (whatever that is). Went thru the "free quote" routine and
> noted cost - looked good. I got an e-mail last night saying I'd get a call
> today. This morning I received a call from one of their reps, Jim Siders,
> 1-800-323-5441, Ext 1812, and we settled on "Van's dock to my residence" for
> $370 (instead of $395 to a terminal 10 miles away) . Job will be done by
> Bullet Freight.
Freight Quote has been used quite a bit with mostly good outcomes for
shipping several of the StalkerV6 car kits.
By the way, my new cruise missile is now running!
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/stalkerv6
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 552 hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Non-RV related Hanger related |
In a message dated 3/11/2004 12:30:48 PM Eastern Standard Time, n242ds(at)cox.net
writes:
> I am thinking about buying a 3000 square foot hanger
Dude, you must have an enormous trench coat to put on that hanger!
Seriously, my neighbor's hangar door is electric bifold and cost more than my RV-6A
complete kit did back in '94. I don't remember exact figures, but those puppies
are worth some serious bucks. They're also interesting to operate if the
power is out ;-)
I hear 50x100 foot metal buildings being advertized all the time for around 19k,
but I am sure shipping and erection add considerably to the cost, not to mention
the concrete floor, wiring, and other amenities.
Seems like hangars are scarce these days, and probably an excellent investment
when at the right location.
-Bill B
owner of humble but effective homebuilt metal hangar on sod strip.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us(at)hotmail.com> |
dan(at)rvproject.com, rv7boy(at)yahoo.com, drwalker(at)powernet.net,
jhallrv4(at)comcast.net, n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com, klaus(at)yosemite.net,
RV-List(at)matronics.com, mikesrv6(at)yahoo.com, rosales(at)bigfoot.com,
randy(at)rv-8.com, n667sr(at)comcast.net
| Subject: | Carson City Fly-in |
I have just received the final information on the rooms available for our
fly-in. The Pinion Plaza Resort 1-877-519 -5567 is $89.00 a night + 10% tax
on top. Carson Station Hotel (6 rooms avail.) 1-800-501-2929 is $66.00 a
night + tax on top. When making reservations state that you are a guest with
the EAA Chapter 403 Fly-in. Suites are also available at the Pinion but
start at $112.00 a night if you wish. These rates will be in effect Mar.
15th through Apr. 8th after that they will go to the public and at a higher
rate.
Frustrated with dial-up? Lightning-fast Internet access for as low as
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: RV 10 Tail cone top skins |
Wow, I'm impressed. I hope to just be able to "fog a mirror" when I reach
80!! Go for it Eustace. Will this be on Float?
Marty in Brentwood TN (still can't seem to get my first project airborne)
From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: RV 10 Tail cone top skins
Hi Bruce:
If I was twenty years younger, it would be an option but now it will not
happen. I said that when the 6A was finished that would be my last project.
That all changed when I had the opportunity to fly the RV 10 at Van's
Homecoming. I asked myself "why are you considering building the 10", well
after flying it I knew that if I didn't I would be regretting it for the
rest of my life.
When I received my emp- tail cone kit and started to work on it I realized
that this was going to be a joy to build. After building two slow builds the
difference is unbelievable, the way it all goes together with the
pre-punching and such a great manual I look forward to heading to the shop
every morning, it almost feels like I am cheating.
Anyway hoping my health holds out and energy keeps up it would be a great
way to celebrate my eighty-first birthday next year by flying the 10 on that
day.
Eustace
----- Original Message -----
From: <BBreckenridge(at)att.net>
Subject: RV-List: RE: RV 10 Tail cone top skins
>
> Mr. Bowhay;
>
> Why do I get this feeling that your "10" will have a set of floats???!!!
>
> Bruce Breckenridge
> 40018
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | RV3/4 Round cowl inlet size |
Anyone, know if these inlets and plenum will these work on a -6 and does
Dave have a web site to view these?
Marty in Brentwood TN
From: John <aflyer(at)direcway.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV3/4 Round cowl inlet size
Call Dave Anders at (559) 627-3375. He has it all worked out and sells the
machined rings for each size engine.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rick Fogerson
Subject: RV-List: RV3/4 Round cowl inlet size
Hi Listers,
I'm considering using round cowl inlets and an aluminum plenum on my RV3
with an 0320. Does anyone know the proper dia. of a round inlet and how
this compares to the size/area of Van's std oblong inlet. Thanks, Rick
Fogerson RV3 engine baffling Boise, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Non-RV related Hanger related |
Is the hanger a kit?
Ross
----- Original Message -----
From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Non-RV related Hanger related
>
> I'm moving "away" from big government...
>
> -buying into a 40 acre, 1800' dirt strip $25,000
> -one 40' x 60' concrete slab (self pour/level ?) $ 2,300
> -one 40' x 60' arch style hanger (blew away once
> during construction)
> $6,900
> -lots of work (no marketable value) $
> 0
> -tons of other odds & ends (electrical, plumbing, etc) $3,000
> -------------------------------------------------
> ----------------
> -having your own private dirt strip
> "priceless"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RV6 slider defrosters |
> Alex:
>
> Where did you mount your fans?? I am considering mounting
> mine just under the top forward skin just aft of the
> windscreen, but I am concerned about the magnets in the
> motors. Can I assume that even if you have one on each side
> of a possible compass mounted on the rollbar support and
> equal distances from the midline of the airplane, that there
> still would be some trouble with compass errors?
I mounted them to the fuse forward top skin, just in front of the
instrument panel. It took a little creativity to cram them in amongst
the avionics, but it worked out. Don't know about the effect upon the
compass, which is in the right panel. One of these days I'll swing it.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 443 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | weight and balance |
http://www.rvproject.com/wab.html
That's a javascript web form that I now use for weight & balance (CG)
calculations. Feel free to steal that HTML file and tweak it according to
your own plane's data.
The WAP (mobile phone) version is coming soon...
I love having more time to code now that the plane is "done."
Hehehheh...yeah, right. 8-)
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randy Richter <richterrbb(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: weight and balance |
Hey, Dan,
I tried to "Save page as..." and put it somewhere on my mo-sheen; then
when I opened that saved file, I could input weights for the passenger,
etc., but the matrix to calculate the moments and cg wouldn't work.
Any idea why not?
Thanks!
Randy
BTW, I tried to send you a note and some pictures (of me in Thule,
Greenland, and Honduras) and got a reply that the files were too big.
Any other address I can send them to, or should I try to shrink 'em somehow?
Dan Checkoway wrote:
>
>http://www.rvproject.com/wab.html
>
>That's a javascript web form that I now use for weight & balance (CG)
>calculations. Feel free to steal that HTML file and tweak it according to
>your own plane's data.
>
>The WAP (mobile phone) version is coming soon...
>
>I love having more time to code now that the plane is "done."
>Hehehheh...yeah, right. 8-)
>
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
>
>
--
Randy Richter
richterrbb(at)earthlink.net
-7QB Kit in hibernation
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Wiegenstein" <n727jw(at)hellerwiegenstein.com> |
| Subject: | EL Panel/Glareshield Lighting |
Just an update for those who responded to my earlier inquries re: panel
lighting options. After poking around the 'net to see what there was, I
ended up ordering an Electroluminescent green tape strip kip from Startech.
Here's the link:
http://www.mutantmods.com/itemdetail.cfm?ProductID=ELTAPEGN
I ordered thru Buy.com, for a total cost of about $18. The kit arrived
today, with a 4 foot long strip of green EL tape, a nice, compact
transformer that runs off 12VDC, and connectors. Mocking it up where my
glareshield will be shows that it gives lots of light, in a nice, even, soft
green hue. I have the B&C dimmer for the other panel items (avionics) and
the dimming curve for them seems to match well with the EL strip. My
glareshield overhangs the panel by only about 1.5 inches, and if I had left
a longer overhang it would position the EL strip further away from the panel
and help give better light towards the bottom of the panel. But, so far
it looks like it will be a slick setup for panel lighting, at very low cost,
and should give very long life.
John Wiegenstein
Hansville, WA
RV-6 N727JW (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: weight and balance |
I don't know what browser you are using, but if you can "view page
source" then save that it works just fine when opened.
Thanks, Dan for this resource!
Dick Tasker
Randy Richter wrote:
>
>Hey, Dan,
>
>I tried to "Save page as..." and put it somewhere on my mo-sheen; then
>when I opened that saved file, I could input weights for the passenger,
>etc., but the matrix to calculate the moments and cg wouldn't work.
>
>Any idea why not?
>
>Thanks!
>Randy
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
| Subject: | RV3/4 Round cowl inlet size |
Will James has inlets and plenum for the six.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Emrath
> Sent: Thursday, March 11, 2004 7:08 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RV3/4 Round cowl inlet size
>
>
> Anyone, know if these inlets and plenum will these work on a -6 and does
> Dave have a web site to view these?
> Marty in Brentwood TN
>
>
> From: John <aflyer(at)direcway.com>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: RV3/4 Round cowl inlet size
>
>
> Call Dave Anders at (559) 627-3375. He has it all worked out and sells the
> machined rings for each size engine.
>
> John
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rick Fogerson
> Subject: RV-List: RV3/4 Round cowl inlet size
>
>
> Hi Listers,
> I'm considering using round cowl inlets and an aluminum plenum on my RV3
> with an 0320. Does anyone know the proper dia. of a round inlet and how
> this compares to the size/area of Van's std oblong inlet. Thanks, Rick
> Fogerson RV3 engine baffling Boise, ID
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KIMSEYCO(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Non-RV related Hanger related |
jason, i just completed a metal building hangar that is 70 ft wide by 84 ft
deep and 18 ft at the roof eves. it has a 2/12 roof pitch and a standing seem
roof. the building came to approx 35,000$ not including the hyd door that i
installed that came to about 7,000$. the concrete for mime ran a little high at
about 12,000$. and i have two walk doors and also a 10 x 10 roll up door,
included with hanger price. tom kimsey
warner robins ga. building came from about 10 miles north of valdosta ,Ga. if
i can help with any thing else let me know. tom kimsey ps i did it all -
age 62
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | EL Panel/Glareshield Lighting |
I was wondering if you had tested it with your radios or a handheld radio
on. I seem to remember that the transformers for the electroluminescent
(sp??) lighting can be noisy??
Then on the other hand, for $18 what the heck?
Don
"All of us need to be reminded that the federal government did not create
the states; the states created the federal government!"---Ronald Reagan
Get business advice and resources to improve your work life, from bCentral.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Meske <rmeske@gcfn.org> (SquirrelMail authenticated user rmeske) by www.gcfn.org with HTTP; Fri, |
12 Mar 2004 08:18:38.-0500(at)matronics.com (EST)
| Subject: | Re: EL Panel/Glareshield Lighting |
Don,
We sell EL Lighting with inverters. NO one has complained about noise
from our systems to this date. They are designed for low power and low
electromatic radiation. The lights can easily be dimmed as well by varying
the DC to the inverter from the +12V.
GOOD LUCK with your project!
Rich
www.aircraftextras.com
>
> I was wondering if you had tested it with your radios or a handheld
> radio on. I seem to remember that the transformers for the
> electroluminescent (sp??) lighting can be noisy??
>
> Then on the other hand, for $18 what the heck?
>
> Don
>
>
> "All of us need to be reminded that the federal government did not
> create the states; the states created the federal
> government!"---Ronald Reagan
>
> Get business advice and resources to improve your work life, from
> bCentral.
>
>
--
Rich
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <Fred.Stucklen(at)UTCFuelCells.com> |
| Subject: | RE: EL Panel/Glare shield Lighting |
Listers,
I've installed the same EL strip into my Tip Up RV-6A. I have about 4.5"
of
glare shield overhang (it makes BIG difference on canopy reflections). I've
installed one .5" wide in close to the panel, and am planning a second one
further out on the bottom of the glare shield to better illuminate of the
lower
panel areas. The single unit does a very nice job of lighting up panel areas
that were previously dark. IMO, they do not replace instrument lighting, but
rather compliment it by lowering the contrast between the panel and the
instruments. The unit works well on the dimmer, but does have some flicker
at
some levels (due to the 'beat frequency' between the inverter freq and the
digital dimmer circuit I am using). I might have to filter the dimmed
voltage
to this unit to eliminate the flicker....
I have also installed two 50* white LEDs near the top latch of the canopy
(on
either side of the canopy safety latch). These are used as general cabin
lighting. Each has a small reflector that helps widen out the light beam. I
have found that by focusing the right side LED towards the left panel area
(and conversely the left side LED towards the right panel area) passenger
head
shadows are nearly eliminated. These two LEDs will light up the panel
sufficiently
for safe flight in the event of a panel lighting failure.....
I'm also planning on adding similar white LEDs in the baggage area. I'd
like to
have better cabin lighting of the 'hat rack' area where maps & charts are
usually stored during long trips. I've also contemplated putting the same
lighting
into the foot well areas......
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV
155 Hrs
Just an update for those who responded to my earlier inquries re:
panel
lighting options. After poking around the 'net to see what there was,
I
ended up ordering an Electroluminescent green tape strip kip from
Startech.
Here's the link:
http://www.mutantmods.com/itemdetail.cfm?ProductID=ELTAPEGN
I ordered thru Buy.com, for a total cost of about $18. The kit
arrived
today, with a 4 foot long strip of green EL tape, a nice, compact
transformer that runs off 12VDC, and connectors. Mocking it up where
my
glareshield will be shows that it gives lots of light, in a nice,
even, soft
green hue. I have the B&C dimmer for the other panel items
(avionics) and
the dimming curve for them seems to match well with the EL strip.
My
glareshield overhangs the panel by only about 1.5 inches, and if I had
left
a longer overhang it would position the EL strip further away from the
panel
and help give better light towards the bottom of the panel. But, so
far
it looks like it will be a slick setup for panel lighting, at very low
cost,
and should give very long life.
John Wiegenstein
Hansville, WA
RV-6 N727JW (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EL Panel/Glareshield Lighting |
I used the same material on my RV-6A with lighting throughout the panel, and
the power supply was in close proximity to all of my circuit breakers. I
had no interference from the system.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Soon
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: EL Panel/Glareshield Lighting
>
> I was wondering if you had tested it with your radios or a handheld radio
> on. I seem to remember that the transformers for the electroluminescent
> (sp??) lighting can be noisy??
>
> Then on the other hand, for $18 what the heck?
>
> Don
>
>
> "All of us need to be reminded that the federal government did not create
> the states; the states created the federal government!"---Ronald Reagan
>
> Get business advice and resources to improve your work life, from
bCentral.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | F1 QB wings for sale |
For sale. One complete set of F1 wings. Contact me off list if interested.
Danny Melnik
F1 #25
Melbourne (FL) Rocket Factory
vft(at)aol.com
407-687-3126
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Ugrades Update... |
vansairforce
Got my panel done and ready to paint...
I also got my new moving map software yesterday and have been playing around
with this morning... It's the Mountain Scope Moving Map stuff from
www.pcavionics.com... So far I think it's VERY COOL... I have posted a
bunch of screen shots and info to my site...
http://www.vondane.com/rv8a/finish/finish13.htm
-Bill VonDane
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Upgrades Update... |
Maybe you can check out all that new equipment in route to our fly-in if you
can make it? Your new panel is going to be pretty trick. (Carson City
Fly-in) Bruce
>From: Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com, rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com, vansairforce
>
>Subject: RV-List: Ugrades Update...
>Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 10:16:29 -0700
>
>
>Got my panel done and ready to paint...
>
>I also got my new moving map software yesterday and have been playing
>around
>with this morning... It's the Mountain Scope Moving Map stuff from
>www.pcavionics.com... So far I think it's VERY COOL... I have posted a
>bunch of screen shots and info to my site...
>
>http://www.vondane.com/rv8a/finish/finish13.htm
>
>-Bill VonDane
>EAA Tech Counselor
>RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
>www.vondane.com
>www.creativair.com
>www.epanelbuilder.com
>
>
One-click access to Hotmail from any Web page download MSN Toolbar now!
http://clk.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200413ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Milner" <tldrgred(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N8WV Upgrades... |
Bill,
I`m running 125hp and was using a Sterba 68x68. Bought a 68x66 from a guy
with a -3 and performance was same, (1900 static rpm and 170mph at
2700rpm.). Sent the 68x66 to Sterba and requested 2200 static and no speed
loss on top end. I got it back and it`s 68x62 now and my tach reads 2050
static. Used a friends tach checker and found it`s realy turning 2250rpm
static (perfect). I still cruise at about 160mph @ 2500rpm. Sterba got the
prop baqck in a couple weeks and didn`t charge anything. Good man to work
with. My tach is accurate at 2500rpm but I don`t trust it anymore. What
would you do with it?
Red Milner
RV-4 79KM
based @ UES
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com>
Subject: RV-List: N8WV Upgrades...
>
> I've just updated my upgrades page if anyone is interested:
> http://www.vondane.com/rv8a/finish/finish13.htm
>
> Got my new panel back from Ross at Experimental Air -
> www.experimentalair.com, and it looks great!
>
> -Bill VonDane
> EAA Tech Counselor
> RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
> www.vondane.com
> www.creativair.com
> www.epanelbuilder.com
>
>
> _____________________________________________________
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Brame <charleyb(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RV6 slider defrosters |
I haven't mounted my fans yet, but they will go in the fuse forward top
skin, centered in front of each occupant, in front of the instrument
panel and just inside the windshield (6A-Slider.) I also wondered about
the effect on the mag compass.
I set my fans on my work shop table and hooked them up to a power
supply. I positioned a boy scout compass between the fans and turned
them on. No movement on the compass. I repositioned the compass to
several other areas, above the fans, beside each fan, forward, back,
etc. I never saw any movement in the compass between fans on and fans
off. I even left the compass in place between the fans, and then removed
the fans one at a time - again no movement. Moving the compass anywhere
near the power supply; however, induced big errors. Thus, I am
comfortable that the fans won't cause compass errors once mounted.
Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB
San Antonio
-------------------------------
> From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net>
> Subject: RE: Fans causing compass errors ...was... RV-List: RV6 slider defrosters
>
>
>
>
> > Alex:
> >
> > Where did you mount your fans?? I am considering mounting
> > mine just under the top forward skin just aft of the
> > windscreen, but I am concerned about the magnets in the
> > motors. Can I assume that even if you have one on each side
> > of a possible compass mounted on the rollbar support and
> > equal distances from the midline of the airplane, that there
> > still would be some trouble with compass errors?
>
> I mounted them to the fuse forward top skin, just in front of the
> instrument panel. It took a little creativity to cram them in amongst
> the avionics, but it worked out. Don't know about the effect upon the
> compass, which is in the right panel. One of these days I'll swing it.
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> RV6-A N66AP 443 hours
> http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Fogerson" <rickf(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Dave Anders phone number |
I was told to contact Dave Anders at 559-627-3375 for round cowl inlets by 3 different
people on the list. Tried twice (carefully) and each time got the same
person who didn't know a Dave Anders. Does anyone have a different (correct?)
number?
Thanks,
Rick Fogerson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Carson City Fly-in |
This Carson City --- Nevada? When?
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Non-RV related Hanger related |
Sad but here it won't buy a lot in town.
hal
Paso Robles, CA (but the Apricot trees are in full bloom!)
At 03:00 PM 3/12/2004, you wrote:
>
>Up here 40 acres would cost between 100,000 to
>120,000 Rochester Mn area.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Becker" <ctbecker(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Gretz trim servo travel |
I agree with an earlier post. I think that you are applying the elevator up
and down requirements to the trim tab.
Charles Becker
N464CB RV8A(e)
Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jakent(at)unison.ie
Subject: RV-List: Gretz trim servo travel
The trim tab horn is shorter for the electric trim. Remember the servo only
has 1.2 inch travel and the cable travels more than this with the manual
trim.
If, as in my case, changing he horn is too much metal butchery, then do as
I did and instal a ratio arm (lever) between the servo and cable end. On my
RV-4 it let me get full tab travel and also let me reverse the direction of
the servo to make a neater installation. Just do the maths for the correct
lever ratios. John Kent (Ireland)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ronschreck99(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Prop Governor Dimension |
Listers,
I have an old style Hartzell governor which measures seven and a half inches
from the mounting flange face to the rear of the unit. I have not mounted my
IO-360B1E on my RV-8 yet, so I can't accurately measure the firewall
clearance. Can someone tell me what the clearance is from the governor mounting
flange
to the firewall and I would be interested to know the size of some other
governors. I may be able to make a swap for a different model or brand if this
one won't fit.
Thanks.
Ron Schreck
RV-8
Gold Hill, NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
Ok, I ready to install the F6111L & R, those little pcs. that go above
the baggage area on the top skin sides for the sliding canopy. I guess
they need to be cut off to fit. How much? Top and bottom or only top or
bottom? I seem to remember someone saying how much they had to cut.
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Stucklen" <wstucklen1(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | e: EL Panel/Glareshield Lighting |
Fred Stucklen
Rich,
But you are not competing with the cost... $89 instead of $18.00 for
essentially the same product...
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV 155 Hrs
Don,
We sell EL Lighting with inverters. NO one has complained about
noise
from our systems to this date. They are designed for low power
and low
electromatic radiation. The lights can easily be dimmed as well
by varying
the DC to the inverter from the +12V.
GOOD LUCK with your project!
Rich
www.aircraftextras.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie & Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Non-RV related Hanger related |
>>>
>>>Jason Sneed wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>>I am thinking about buying a 3000 square foot hanger and I was
>>>>wondering if you guys that know something about metal buildings could
>>>>give me a price per square foot for metal buildings. It has the more
>>>>expensive electric folding door. I am just looking for an estimate. It
>>>>is built on concrete and has a slab in front of the hanger also.
>>>>
>>>>Thanks
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Jason Sneed
>>>>RV-6 (may be getting a new home)
>>>>
Nine of the eleven hangars here at Slobovia Outernational (in
Mississippi) are 'chicken houses' erected by a guy who stays very busy
building...chicken houses. Shop-built (engineered, of course) trusses
with 2X6 purlins & Galvalume metal roofing. The builder expects a
reasonably level surface. He comes out one day & shoots leveled spots
for & pours the foundation pads for the trusses. The next day they start
erecting the trusses & within 3 or 4 days you have a shed to park
under. I believe that the current price is about $2.25-$2.50 per sq ft,
parts & labor. Add the cost of slab, door, walls, etc to that. Painted
Galvalume metal for walls runs around 60 cents per sq ft.
The various owners here have researched almost every possible idea for
hangar construction, & this is by far the cheapest in this area. One
advantage is that if money is tight, you can protect the plane for very
little initial cash outlay. Another advantage if you have unstable soil
(we do) is that you can park planes, vehicles, tractors, etc under the
shed for months to pack the soil hard before actually pouring the slab.
If you are willing to do it all yourself & just need an RV sized hangar
(30' span), drop me a line for a way to do it even cheaper that that.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cory Emberson" <bootless(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Request: Information for Kitplanes Article (Interiors/Exteriors) |
Hello!
I am writing an article for Kitplanes magazine that will feature builders who have
distinctive interiors and/or exteriors.
My deadline is rather short, so if you could email me as soon as possible, hopefully
by Tuesday, that will give me enough time to put it together.
Here are some of the criteria I'm looking for:
Interiors that are (one or any combination):
1. creative
2. inexpensive
3. very comfortable
4. lightweight
5. generally cool and different
6. distinctive in some way.
Exteriors that are:
1.. stunningly attractive
2.. original design
3.. historically accurate
4.. distinctive in some way
Other things to keep in mind:
1. How you came to design your interior/exterior (How you got your idea)
2. The reasons why you did it as you did
3. What benefits you had in mind
4. Any unexpected benefits (and/or pitfalls) there were
5. What you learned
6. How many hours you've flown with it (if completed)
7. How much of the work did you do yourself?
8. Did you have any professional assistance? How much?
9. The equipment and tools you used
10. How much time it took to build and install
11. The cost of building it.
12. Would you do it again the same way? Why?
Here are the photo requirements for Kitplanes: Photos must be 300 dpi at a size
large enough to use in the magazine, which is usually at least 3 x 3 inches.
If an image is 300 dpi at 1 x 1 inch, it won't be big enough to do any good. Hard
copy photos are good, too.
Thanks so much - I really appreciate your help!
best regards,
Cory Emberson
Hayward, CA [KHWD]
510.599.4409
cory(at)lightspeededit.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
Bobby,
If your F6111 pieces are the same as mine, cut off the top at 1 3/8 inch
(measured along a "centerline" running through the tooling holes) above the
tooling holes. Don't cut yet! They should be cut at about a 30 degree angle with
the bottom sides being longer than the top sides. That's 30 degrees from just
whacking it off at 90 degrees. You will angle back the flanges to fit flush
to the bulkhead as you trim it to fit. Draw vertical lines 1/4 inch inboard of
the center of the corner holes that hold the corrugated baggage plate in
place. The tooling holes end up just in front of this line (about 5/8 inch).
If
I had done mine that way it would look great. I cut off too much! That's
easy to do. It would be better to cut long to begin with to be sure what I said
will work for you. There has to be a twist in them to fit the skin. But this
information should help. Once the top is done, incrementally trim the bottom
until the center line of the flange lies under the holes in the skin and the
bottom just almost touches the longeron. I think 1/16 inch from the longeron
looks good.
This information is as I measured it on my airplane.
Hope this helps you get a good fit.
Dan Hopper RV-7A (almost done)
>
> Ok, I ready to install the F6111L &R, those little pcs. that go above
> the baggage area on the top skin sides for the sliding canopy. I guess
> they need to be cut off to fit. How much? Top and bottom or only top or
> bottom? I seem to remember someone saying how much they had to cut.
>
> --
> Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Non-RV related Hanger related |
Cy,
I live in the middle of Indiana about that distance from Chicago. Where is
your strip. If its close maybe I can give up on mine!
Dan (Walton, IN)
In a message dated 3/13/04 10:44:20 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
pa201950(at)yahoo.com writes:
> Only bad thing about this setup is
> that the strip is only 1,100 ft. long and it is 160
> miles from where I live. The good thing is that I have
> an RV-6 that can get there in an hour,land and take
> off from this short strip,and if it is a nice day I
> can taxi up in the yard of the farm house so my RV is
> about 30 ft. from the door. Can you imagine being
> downtown Chicago fighting the traffic and in a couple
> of hours being out in the middle of nowhere sitting on
> the front porch smoking a cigar and looking at your RV
> sitting on your own grass strip!!
>
> --- Cy Galley wrote:
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Carson City Fly-in |
The dates are Apr. 30th through May 2nd. The 30th is set up for early
arrivals. You can find more info. on vansaircraft.com under FLY-IN SCHEDULE.
That will forward you to the host sight. Thanks for the interest and hope
you and some others can make it. Bruce
>From: kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Carson City Fly-in
>Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 16:18:38 -0800
>
>
>This Carson City --- Nevada? When?
>
>hal
>
>
Find things fast with the new MSN Toolbar includes FREE pop-up blocking!
http://clk.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200414ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | RV-4 N504RV Flew today |
Hey listers:
Thanks to many of you who support and are active on the RV-List, My RV-4, N504RV
flew from Nut Tree Airport today. First flight, 40 minutes, to 9,000 feet,
ended with ground observing smoke and a leaky gasket to the prop gov. Otherwise,
COOOOOL!
This is Van's #1305, began in 1984 by Ret Col Don Disbrow (diseased). After 7
years of love and pain, it flies. A great feeling and a debt to you all on the
list. Also Van's, who always had a rough idea of what my problems where but
a solution just the same. Mike Seager was a big help in getting me ready for
the first flight and all the help from the local Hanger bums at the Nut Tree.
My wife Ronni and kids Casey and Kelly, yes your dad is still alive and now will
be home a bit more. A great bunch of people and a life-time high!
Dave Aronson
RV-4 N504RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
Bobby,
If your F6111 pieces are the same as mine, cut off the top at 1 3/8 inch
(measured along a "centerline" running through the tooling holes) above the
tooling holes.=A0 Don't cut yet!=A0 They should be cut at about a 30 degree angle
with
the bottom sides being longer than the top sides.=A0 That's 30 degrees from just
whacking it off at 90 degrees.=A0 You will angle back the flanges to fit flush
to the bulkhead as you trim it to fit.=A0 Draw vertical lines 1/4 inch inboard
of
the center of the corner holes that hold the corrugated baggage plate in
place.=A0 The tooling holes end up just in front of this line (about 5/8 inch).=A0
If
I had done mine that way it would look great.=A0 I cut off too much!=A0 That's
easy to do.=A0 It would be better to cut long to begin with to be sure what I
said
will work for you.=A0 There has to be a twist in them to fit the skin.=A0 But this
information should help.=A0 Once the top is done, incrementally trim the bottom
until the center line of the flange lies under the holes in the skin and the
bottom just almost touches the longeron.=A0 I think 1/16 inch from the longeron
looks good.
This information is as I measured it on my airplane.
Hope this helps you get a good fit.
Dan Hopper RV-7A (almost done)
>
> Ok, I ready to install the F6111L &R, those little pcs. that go above
> the baggage area on the top skin sides for the sliding canopy. I guess
> they need to be cut off to fit. How much? Top and bottom or only top or
> bottom? I seem to remember someone saying how much they had to cut.
>
> --
> Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Non-RV related Hanger related |
Cy,
I live in the middle of Indiana about that distance from Chicago.=A0 Where is
your strip.=A0 If its close maybe I can give up on mine!
Dan (Walton, IN)
In a message dated 3/13/04 10:44:20 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
pa201950(at)yahoo.com writes:
> Only bad thing about this setup is
> that the strip is only 1,100 ft. long and it is 160
> miles from where I live. The good thing is that I have
> an RV-6 that can get there in an hour,land and take
> off from this short strip,and if it is a nice day I
> can taxi up in the yard of the farm house so my RV is
> about 30 ft. from the door. Can you imagine being
> downtown Chicago fighting the traffic and in a couple
> of hours being out in the middle of nowhere sitting on
> the front porch smoking a cigar and looking at your RV
> sitting on your own grass strip!!
>
> --- Cy Galley wrote:
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
Bobby,
If your F6111 pieces are the same as mine, cut off the top at 1 3/8 inch
(measured along a "centerline" running through the tooling holes) above the
tooling holes.=A0 Don't cut yet!=A0 They should be cut at about a 30 degree angle
with
the bottom sides being longer than the top sides.=A0 That's 30 degrees from just
whacking it off at 90 degrees.=A0 You will angle back the flanges to fit flush
to the bulkhead as you trim it to fit.=A0 Draw vertical lines 1/4 inch inboard
of
the center of the corner holes that hold the corrugated baggage plate in
place.=A0 The tooling holes end up just in front of this line (about 5/8 inch).=A0
If
I had done mine that way it would look great.=A0 I cut off too much!=A0 That's
easy to do.=A0 It would be better to cut long to begin with to be sure what I
said
will work for you.=A0 There has to be a twist in them to fit the skin.=A0 But this
information should help.=A0 Once the top is done, incrementally trim the bottom
until the center line of the flange lies under the holes in the skin and the
bottom just almost touches the longeron.=A0 I think 1/16 inch from the longeron
looks good.
This information is as I measured it on my airplane.
Hope this helps you get a good fit.
Dan Hopper RV-7A (almost done)
>
> Ok, I ready to install the F6111L &R, those little pcs. that go above
> the baggage area on the top skin sides for the sliding canopy. I guess
> they need to be cut off to fit. How much? Top and bottom or only top or
> bottom? I seem to remember someone saying how much they had to cut.
>
> --
> Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Carson City Fly-in |
At 03:51 PM 3/13/2004, you wrote:
>
>The dates are Apr. 30th through May 2nd. The 30th is set up for early
>arrivals. You can find more info. on vansaircraft.com under FLY-IN SCHEDULE.
>That will forward you to the host sight. Thanks for the interest and hope
>you and some others can make it. Bruce
Thanks for the invite, Bruce!
I did the linking and jumping and found that indeed, the fly in is at
CARSON CITY , NEVADA. (Not carson city, NY.)
It has so far been a somewhat secretive event so it must really be worth
attending - maybe the SR71 will fly by or the Wright Flyer or even the RV11?
hal
(This Paso Robles Zinfandel is some good wine!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
I'll try one more time.
Bobby,
If your F6111 pieces are the same as mine, cut off the top at 1 3/8 inch
(measured along a "centerline" running through the tooling holes) above the
tooling holes. Don't actually cut yet! The pieces should be cut at about a 30
degree angle with the bottom sides being longer than the top sides. That's 30
degrees from just cutting it off at 90 degrees. You will angle back the flanges
to fit flush to the bulkhead as you trim it to fit. Draw a vertical line on
each side 1/4 inch inboard of the center of the corner holes that hold the
corrugated baggage plate in place. The tooling holes end up just in front of this
line (about 5/8 inch). If I had done mine that way it would look great. I
cut off too much! That's easy to do. It would be better to cut long to begin
with to be sure what I said will work for you. There has to be a twist in
them to fit the skin. But this information should help. Once the top is done,
incrementally trim the bottom until the center line of the flange lies under
the holes in the skin and the bottom just almost touches the longeron. I think
1/16 inch from the longeron looks good.
This information is as I measured it on my airplane.
Hope this helps you get a good fit.
Dan Hopper RV-7A (almost done)
In a message dated 3/13/04 10:01:56 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
bhester(at)hopkinsville.net writes:
>
> Ok, I ready to install the F6111L &R, those little pcs. that go above
> the baggage area on the top skin sides for the sliding canopy. I guess
> they need to be cut off to fit. How much? Top and bottom or only top or
> bottom? I seem to remember someone saying how much they had to cut.
>
> --
> Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 N504RV Flew today |
Dave,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: RV-4 N504RV Flew today
>Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 17:51:20 -0800 (PST)
>
>
>Hey listers:
>Thanks to many of you who support and are active on the RV-List, My RV-4,
>N504RV flew from Nut Tree Airport today. First flight, 40 minutes, to
>9,000 feet, ended with ground observing smoke and a leaky gasket to the
>prop gov. Otherwise, COOOOOL!
Get business advice and resources to improve your work life, from bCentral.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RGray67968(at)aol.com |
Bobby,
Here's what I did....NOTHING. I threw mine away. My skins are plenty stiff and
those things are just plain ugly :
). Tip came from my building mentor and friend, Mr. Paul Rosales!!
Rick Gray in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm
http://rv6rick.tripod.com/ohiovalleyrvators/index.html
feel free to archive :
)
Bobby,
If your F6111 pieces are the same as mine, cut off the top at 1 3/8 inch
(measured along a "centerline" running through the tooling holes) above the
tooling holes.=A0 Don't cut yet!=A0 They should be cut at about a 30 degree angle
with
the bottom sides being longer than the top sides.=A0 That's 30 degrees from just
whacking it off at 90 degrees.=A0 You will angle back the flanges to fit flush
to the bulkhead as you trim it to fit.=A0 Draw vertical lines 1/4 inch inboard
of
the center of the corner holes that hold the corrugated baggage plate in
place.=A0 The tooling holes end up just in front of this line (about 5/8 inch).=A0
If
I had done mine that way it would look great.=A0 I cut off too much!=A0 That's
easy to do.=A0 It would be better to cut long to begin with to be sure what I
said
will work for you.=A0 There has to be a twist in them to fit the skin.=A0 But this
information should help.=A0 Once the top is done, incrementally trim the bottom
until the center line of the flange lies under the holes in the skin and the
bottom just almost touches the longeron.=A0 I think 1/16 inch from the longeron
looks good.
This information is as I measured it on my airplane.
Hope this helps you get a good fit.
Dan Hopper RV-7A (almost done)
>
> Ok, I ready to install the F6111L &R, those little pcs. that go above
> the baggage area on the top skin sides for the sliding canopy. I guess
> they need to be cut off to fit. How much? Top and bottom or only top or
> bottom? I seem to remember someone saying how much they had to cut.
>
> --
> Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Dave Anders phone number |
I have the same number and it was GOOD last time I called it 3 years ago. I
have a work phone number of (559) 625-2744. May want to try that. If they
do not know them, my suggestion would be to look them up on the FAA Database
to see if they moved. I was told they were building a house at "Lake
California Air Park" (38CA). Lake California is in Northern California near
Redding.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,442 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Rick Fogerson" <rickf(at)cableone.net>
Subject: RV-List: Dave Anders phone number
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 15:06:25 -0700
I was told to contact Dave Anders at 559-627-3375 for round cowl inlets by 3
different people on the list. Tried twice (carefully) and each time got the
same person who didn't know a Dave Anders. Does anyone have a different
(correct?) number?
Thanks,
Rick Fogerson
Find things fast with the new MSN Toolbar includes FREE pop-up blocking!
http://clk.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200414ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Shemp" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Request: Information for Kitplanes Article (Interiors/Exteriors) |
Look at Jim Noram's Razmataz.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cory Emberson" <bootless(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Request: Information for Kitplanes Article
(Interiors/Exteriors)
>
> Hello!
>
> I am writing an article for Kitplanes magazine that will feature builders
who have distinctive interiors and/or exteriors.
>
> My deadline is rather short, so if you could email me as soon as possible,
hopefully by Tuesday, that will give me enough time to put it together.
>
> Here are some of the criteria I'm looking for:
>
> Interiors that are (one or any combination):
>
> 1. creative
> 2. inexpensive
> 3. very comfortable
> 4. lightweight
> 5. generally cool and different
> 6. distinctive in some way.
>
> Exteriors that are:
>
> 1.. stunningly attractive
> 2.. original design
> 3.. historically accurate
> 4.. distinctive in some way
> Other things to keep in mind:
>
> 1. How you came to design your interior/exterior (How you got your idea)
> 2. The reasons why you did it as you did
> 3. What benefits you had in mind
> 4. Any unexpected benefits (and/or pitfalls) there were
> 5. What you learned
> 6. How many hours you've flown with it (if completed)
> 7. How much of the work did you do yourself?
> 8. Did you have any professional assistance? How much?
> 9. The equipment and tools you used
> 10. How much time it took to build and install
> 11. The cost of building it.
> 12. Would you do it again the same way? Why?
>
>
> Here are the photo requirements for Kitplanes: Photos must be 300 dpi at a
size large enough to use in the magazine, which is usually at least 3 x 3
inches. If an image is 300 dpi at 1 x 1 inch, it won't be big enough to do
any good. Hard copy photos are good, too.
>
> Thanks so much - I really appreciate your help!
>
> best regards,
>
> Cory Emberson
> Hayward, CA [KHWD]
> 510.599.4409
> cory(at)lightspeededit.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ronschreck99(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Prop Governor Dimension |
Listers,
I must have caught you all on a bad day or you are all out flying on a
beautiful weekend as nobody responded to my inquiry. I'll try again:
I have an old style Hartzell governor which measures seven and a half inches
from the mounting flange face to the rear of the unit. I have not mounted my
IO-360B1E on my RV-8 yet, so I can't accurately measure the firewall
clearance. Can someone tell me what the clearance is from the governor mounting
flange
to the firewall and I would be interested to know the size of some other
governors. I may be able to make a swap for a different model or brand if this
one won't fit.
Thanks.
Ron Schreck
RV-8
Gold Hill, NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
Bobby,
I built a -6A which uses the same part, not that this means it fits the
same.
I do not recall where or how I trimmed it. I simply developed the line where
it was to go based on measurements from the plans and where the top skin
just aft of the canopy ended and trimmed it to fit. I drew the rivet line
and drilled the holes first and arranged the position of the -6111 to hit a
drawn centreline on the flange. If you are lucky the -7A kits will be
prepunched along this line.
Others have noted the ends must be trimmed at an angle and that the piece
gets a degree of twist when being installed.
I'll enclose a picture of the finished item which may help.
Jim Oke
RV-6A
Wpg, MB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bobby Hester" <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net>
Subject: RV-List: F6111
>
> Ok, I ready to install the F6111L & R, those little pcs. that go above
> the baggage area on the top skin sides for the sliding canopy. I guess
> they need to be cut off to fit. How much? Top and bottom or only top or
> bottom? I seem to remember someone saying how much they had to cut.
>
> --
> Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | eregensburg(at)triad.rr.com |
| Subject: | Upcoming HUGE fly in !!! |
A great day for flying indeed !!! Went out to Brunswick county for their EAA meeting/lunch. flew back to Burlington, a few touch and goes; Siler City for gas and then back to South East. By the way - The organizers of the Lumberton Fly in " Mid Atlantic Fly in" came and spoke at the EAA meeting. Check out the web site: www.midatlanticflyin.com . The guy organizing it was facilities coordinator for Sun & Fun for 12 years. He expects it to be huge !!! And considering it is in our back yard I think the RV Wing should make a "Big Appearance". Check it out and spread the word.
Ed
Ditch - N925RV - 6A
eregensburg(at)triad.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Gretz trim servo travel |
The Gretz electric trim in my 6A had insufficient authority to trim the
plane in all configurations. In particular, on final with full flaps, I had
to exert some stick back pressure. I do not like flying an out-of-trim
plane, so in retrospect the manual trim would have been a better solution. I
chose the electric trim to get rid of that big knob that seemed to be in the
wrong place!
Regards,
Dennis Persyk N600DP sold
Pictures at http://home.att.net/~dpersyk/rv6a.htm
From: "Charles Becker" <ctbecker(at)charter.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Gretz trim servo travel
I agree with an earlier post. I think that you are applying the elevator up
and down requirements to the trim tab.
Charles Becker
N464CB RV8A(e)
Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jakent(at)unison.ie
Subject: RV-List: Gretz trim servo travel
The trim tab horn is shorter for the electric trim. Remember the servo only
has 1.2 inch travel and the cable travels more than this with the manual
trim.
If, as in my case, changing he horn is too much metal butchery, then do as
I did and instal a ratio arm (lever) between the servo and cable end. On my
RV-4 it let me get full tab travel and also let me reverse the direction of
the servo to make a neater installation. Just do the maths for the correct
lever ratios. John Kent (Ireland)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
I'm going to be in the LA area (Manhattan Beach) for the next couple of weeks on
business. I'm building an RV-10 and would very much like to visit area builders
to see projects in various stages of completion. Of course, I'm also will
to discuss RV-10 specifics with anybody interested. I recently took delivery
of my wings and am finishing up the tailcone (as soon as I can reduce my travel
schedule).
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)QCBC.ORG> |
| Subject: | Re: Non-RV related Hanger related |
Think you sent this to the wrong person.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Hopperdhh(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Non-RV related Hanger related
>
>
> Cy,
> I live in the middle of Indiana about that distance from Chicago. Where
is
> your strip. If its close maybe I can give up on mine!
> Dan (Walton, IN)
>
>
> In a message dated 3/13/04 10:44:20 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
> pa201950(at)yahoo.com writes:
>
> > Only bad thing about this setup is
> > that the strip is only 1,100 ft. long and it is 160
> > miles from where I live. The good thing is that I have
> > an RV-6 that can get there in an hour,land and take
> > off from this short strip,and if it is a nice day I
> > can taxi up in the yard of the farm house so my RV is
> > about 30 ft. from the door. Can you imagine being
> > downtown Chicago fighting the traffic and in a couple
> > of hours being out in the middle of nowhere sitting on
> > the front porch smoking a cigar and looking at your RV
> > sitting on your own grass strip!!
> >
> > --- Cy Galley wrote:
> > >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
| Subject: | Reminder: The First Palmetto RV FlyIn Cookout - March 20th |
The Palmetto Wing of Van's Air Force
Invites any and all RV pilots/flyers/builders/etc. to the
FIRST PALMETTO RV FLYIN COOKOUT
Saturday, March 20th
Columbia Downtown Owens Field Airport
Columbia, SC
Palmetto Burgers and Carolina Dogs
Grills will be fired up at 11:00 AM
No Program
No Vendors
No Speeches
No Organization
No Charge
(Donations Accepted)
Just good food, RV's, and friendly conversation.
www.airnav.com/airport/KCUB
Note right traffic for runway 13
If you plan to come email Ken.Harrill(at)Columbia.SC so we can buy enough food.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | O-360 Filter air box |
I am nearing the point where I will be doing the fiberglass work for the cowl inlet
nozzle.
I need some advise as to the dimension between the cowl inlet (unfinished) and
the front of the filtered air box before doing the glass work? In other words
how long does the glass nozzle need to be? The foam block Van supplies is about
2" wide. I assume the dimension needs to be less than 2" but how much less?
Tommy Walker
6A, Ridgetop, TN
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ugrades Update... |
Bill,
I've been watching these PDA-based solutions for some time, and have used a
simple one in my glider with great success to run glide computer software.
As I contemplate what to put in the panel of my new RV-3B project these look
attractive but I still have two major concerns...
1. The PocketPC operating system is a typical Microsoft product and is
complicated and bloated code and therefore prone to crashing, and managing
it does require some real understanding of it. Anyone concerned about OS
stability?
2. The interface looks like it requires a stylus -- anyone concerned about
using a stylus while bouncing around in a cockpit?
Thoughts on these?
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 368 hrs, sold
RV-3B, starting construction
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com>
Subject: RV-List: Ugrades Update...
>
> Got my panel done and ready to paint...
>
> I also got my new moving map software yesterday and have been playing
around
> with this morning... It's the Mountain Scope Moving Map stuff from
> www.pcavionics.com... So far I think it's VERY COOL... I have posted a
> bunch of screen shots and info to my site...
>
> http://www.vondane.com/rv8a/finish/finish13.htm
>
> -Bill VonDane
> EAA Tech Counselor
> RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
> www.vondane.com
> www.creativair.com
> www.epanelbuilder.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: O-360 Filter air box |
In a message dated 3/14/04 10:43:01 AM Pacific Standard Time,
twsurveyor(at)msn.com writes:
<< I need some advise as to the dimension between the cowl inlet
(unfinished) and the front of the filtered air box before doing the glass work?
In other
words how long does the glass nozzle need to be? >>
You will probably get half a dozen different answers to this. The way I did
it is to finish the FAB first and then trim the inlet end of the FAB so that
it was reasonably "square" with the cowl inlet. Then the length of the glass
nozzle is whatever it takes to extend to within about 3/8" of the FAB inlet. I
made mine initially almost touching the FAB and then trimmed it to get the
spacing for the air seal and it wound up about 1 1/2" long. I have seen several
that are much shorter. Just make certain that you can drop the cowl down
past the front of the FAB when it is finished. Hope this helps.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, final assembly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Ugrades Update... |
Both of your points were a concern of mine when I had to decide on panel
layout, especially #2. That's why I stayed with Garmin. I'm very happy
with my Garmin 196. I love the latest techno-geek stuff, but the
Garmin's are still the best as far as functionality, IMO.
-
Larry Bowen. RV-8 FWF
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Randy Lervold [mailto:randy@rv-8.com]
> Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2004 2:08 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; vansairforce; rv-3(at)yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Ugrades Update...
>
>
>
> Bill,
>
> I've been watching these PDA-based solutions for some time,
> and have used a simple one in my glider with great success to
> run glide computer software. As I contemplate what to put in
> the panel of my new RV-3B project these look attractive but I
> still have two major concerns...
>
> 1. The PocketPC operating system is a typical Microsoft
> product and is complicated and bloated code and therefore
> prone to crashing, and managing it does require some real
> understanding of it. Anyone concerned about OS stability?
>
> 2. The interface looks like it requires a stylus -- anyone
> concerned about using a stylus while bouncing around in a cockpit?
>
> Thoughts on these?
>
> Randy Lervold
> RV-8, 368 hrs, sold
> RV-3B, starting construction
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com>
> To: ; ;
> "vansairforce"
> Subject: RV-List: Ugrades Update...
>
>
> >
> > Got my panel done and ready to paint...
> >
> > I also got my new moving map software yesterday and have
> been playing
> around
> > with this morning... It's the Mountain Scope Moving Map stuff from
> > www.pcavionics.com... So far I think it's VERY COOL... I
> have posted
> > a bunch of screen shots and info to my site...
> >
> > http://www.vondane.com/rv8a/finish/finish13.htm
> >
> > -Bill VonDane
> > EAA Tech Counselor
> > RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
> > www.vondane.com
> > www.creativair.com
> > www.epanelbuilder.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | AIRPORT THREATS-not RV related |
Folks
International Speedway Corporation of Daytona, Florida is collecting
information about possible track sites in the pacific northwest. It is quite
disturbing, as there is alot that comes with the building of a "major" racing
facility.
In my neck of the woods, at least(I believe they are looking along the I-5
corridor in WA & OR) there are three possible sites that may be considered.
ALL THREE sites, if developed, would adversely affect general aviation via
TFR's. TWO of these are just South of Arlington Municipal Airport, home of the
EAANW Fly-In.
If a dot was placed on the map in the approx. center of the proposed track
site, and a 3NM radius drawn, either of those two sites would "totally
encompass" the airport. The patrons at the airport are pursuing various methods
to
ensure the final siting is not too close to any airport, much less this one. We
will also be working to get out the word to homeowners, since there are ALOT
of these folks that would also be adversely affected.
We are NOT Anti-NASCAR here, but we are certainly hoping that there will be a
way for ISC to meet their "criteria" for a site without beating down airports
and homeowners. There are other sites also being considered. It is my
thought that if there is enough visibility given to Arlington Municipal Airport
along with other airports in general, that it may play into their decision as to
where to site a facility.
If there is any interest by the folks on this list, it would be appreciated
if contact could be made with Thomas Valley, Director of Corporate Development,
International Speedway Corporation, 1801 International Speedway Blvd.,
Daytona, Florida 32114. The phone number is 386-254-2700.
There are two lines of thought to me right now. One is the fact that these
folks be made to understand things in a Post 9/11 mentality. The other is that
if they just plain don't care about these matters, that they understand that
some of these sites might be mired in litigation should that become necessary.
Generally, I would think that they are looking for a big bang for the buck
without alot of unforseen headaches. There may be other sites that would work
better in that regard, like ones that are set just a little farther from
subdivisions and airports.
Any help in attempting to preserve our "little piece of paradise" would be
greatly appreciated.
James Nice
WA State
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "" <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com> |
List,
Looked in the archives, but did not get a lot of recent info. Have people had
good results with the RST audio panel and the latest electronics (Garmin 430,
etc.)? Line clarity (intercom) will be one of the most important features for
me. Does the RST compare well against the pricey ones (Apollo, Garmin, etc.)?
Sure seems like a bargain for under $300 for a new kit if it works well.
Thanks,
Scott
7A Wings
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Prop Governor Dimension |
Ron,
I don't know that this will help, but on my RV-8A with Superior
XP-IO-360-B1B, I have 7-9/16" from the flange to the firewall, and 2" clear
from the firewall to the closest part of the Czechoslovakian governor I
bought from Van's.
Terry
RV-8A #80729 wiring
Listers,
I must have caught you all on a bad day or you are all out flying on a
beautiful weekend as nobody responded to my inquiry. I'll try again:
I have an old style Hartzell governor which measures seven and a half inches
from the mounting flange face to the rear of the unit. I have not mounted
my
IO-360B1E on my RV-8 yet, so I can't accurately measure the firewall
clearance. Can someone tell me what the clearance is from the governor
mounting flange
to the firewall and I would be interested to know the size of some other
governors. I may be able to make a swap for a different model or brand if
this
one won't fit.
Thanks.
Ron Schreck
RV-8
Gold Hill, NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ugrades Update... |
RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
>
>Bill,
>
>I've been watching these PDA-based solutions for some time, and have used a
>simple one in my glider with great success to run glide computer software.
>As I contemplate what to put in the panel of my new RV-3B project these
>look
>attractive but I still have two major concerns...
>
>1. The PocketPC operating system is a typical Microsoft product and is
>complicated and bloated code and therefore prone to crashing, and managing
>it does require some real understanding of it. Anyone concerned about OS
>stability?
>
>2. The interface looks like it requires a stylus -- anyone concerned about
>using a stylus while bouncing around in a cockpit?
>
>Thoughts on these?
>
>Randy Lervold
>RV-8, 368 hrs, sold
>RV-3B, starting construction
Absolutely valid concerns! I'm planning on a mini PC in my RV10...moving
map GPS, MP3's, DVD, flight planning software, etc. My main concerns are
ops sys, and user interface. Oh, the survivability of hard drives in a
choppy flight environment gives me pause as well, but this will not be a
safety of flight concern...merely an annoyance. I'm planning on this solely
as a nice-to-have item, and can aviate/navigate/communicate just fine
without it. Oh, it also rates very high on the "cool factor" scale. ;)
The Windows CE is a faster booting op sys for sure, but how or if it can be
employed on a conventional hard disk PC, I simply don't know yet. For
interface, I'm thinking touch screen LCD (pricey, but what isn't these
days?). Complimentary to that, or as sole means of interface, a mini
keyboard or trackball tucked away under the panel somewhere, but handy to
either right or left seat occupant, could be done.
It's all a pipe dream now, but it's being done. See myglasscockpit.com.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee when you click here.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harvey Sigmon" <rv6hes(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RST Audio Panel |
Scott: I am sure you will get lots of opinions about RST audio panels.
For the money they are only as good as your workmanship during construction.
I have built two of them, the last one had the built in intercom, it was OK
but not as good as a separate Intercom panel. My RST I could never get rid
of the noise in the normal position from the alternator, a whine used all
the normal methods to get ride of noise to no avail. Finally I went to a
older King KMA-20 which works a lot better. I really feel if you have more
than one radio a quality audio panel makes the install work a lot better.
My opinion only, good luck on your choice.
Harvey Sigmon RV-6A flying
----- Original Message -----
From: <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com>
Subject: RV-List: RST Audio Panel
>
>
> List,
>
> Looked in the archives, but did not get a lot of recent info. Have people
had good results with the RST audio panel and the latest electronics (Garmin
430, etc.)? Line clarity (intercom) will be one of the most important
features for me. Does the RST compare well against the pricey ones (Apollo,
Garmin, etc.)?
>
> Sure seems like a bargain for under $300 for a new kit if it works well.
>
> Thanks,
> Scott
> 7A Wings
>
> Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
> The most personalized portal on the Web!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
| Subject: | Cleveland Brake Assembly |
I can't recall how I assembled my Cleveland brakes 10 years ago to get both
the input high pressure lines on the top of the caliber assembly....I
suspect I merely changed the location of the bleeder port thingy that
Cleveland supplied...that way both input lines were on top and the bleeder
thingys were on the bottom after installation...if my recollection is right
it wouldn't make any difference which 'port' is used as the high pressure
input.
Does that sound right? A friend building an RV7 is scratching his head as to
how I did it...so am I !
Does my shaky memory sound right?
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Non-RV related Hanger related |
If you are willing to do it all yourself & just need an RV sized hangar
(30' span), drop me a line for a way to do it even cheaper that that.
Charlie
Charlie: you've stood in my 36x48x12 hangar recently, a homebuilt pole building
with engineered trusses on 4 foot centers, and I've got about $10k in it all-up
(slab, sides, roof, doors, water & electric). I bet you can get him in a 30
foot span for cheap if he's willing to swing his own hammer :-)
-Bill Boyd
Clifton Forge, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleveland Brake Assembly |
Yes
On Mar 14, 2004, at 3:35 PM, John wrote:
>
> I can't recall how I assembled my Cleveland brakes 10 years ago to
> get both
> the input high pressure lines on the top of the caliber assembly....I
> suspect I merely changed the location of the bleeder port thingy that
> Cleveland supplied...that way both input lines were on top and the
> bleeder
> thingys were on the bottom after installation...if my recollection is
> right
> it wouldn't make any difference which 'port' is used as the high
> pressure
> input.
>
> Does that sound right? A friend building an RV7 is scratching his head
> as to
> how I did it...so am I !
>
> Does my shaky memory sound right?
>
> John
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
Time for the garage sale of leftover items from my project. All items
are new-in-box, unless noted. All prices include UPS shipping to
anywhere in the lower 48, anywhere else, contact me and we'll work
something out.
Jeff Point
Milwaukee, WI
RV-6 signed off, ready to fly, waiting for the weather to improve...
Complete Alternator Kit 60 AMP
Part Number = ES ALTERNATOR 60A KIT
Price = $250.00
ES 14684: A small lightweight high output unit that is capable of
developing 60 amperes (12 volt DC). This unit is INTERNALLY voltage
regulated and will work fine with any of the batteries sold by Van's
Aircraft. ES ALTERNATOR 60A KIT: Kit includes the alternator and a
bracket for mounting on boss mount style Lycoming engines.
Was bolted to the engine briefly, but never run. Sell for $240.
Passenger brakes for overhead mounted rudder bars (RV-6/6A, 7/7A, 9/9A)
Part Number = BRAKE DUAL OVERHEAD
Price = $170.00
Allows complete control from either seat. Kit includes master cylinders,
hoses and all hardware.
New in box, never opened. Sell for $160.
Gascolator
Part Number = GAS-5
Price = $76.00
Quick Drain Bottom
Part Number = CAV-110
Price = $8.90
Made of anodized aluminum, with a simple disc screen. The bottom is
tapered so it drains completely. The side is drilled for mounting.Note:
Quick drain for bottom is NOT INCLUDED. If not using a primer system,
you must also purchase the brass plug for the primer port.
New, never installed. Both for $80. I'll throw in the $.64 brass plug
if you need it.
Hose
VA-139 FUEL SUPPLY HOSE 16.50"X3/8" $62.50
3/8" Aeroquip hose with firesleeve, used for fuel supply lines.
New, never used. Sell for $55.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 N504RV Flew today |
Congrats Dave. Glad to see another 'antique" RV-4 take to the skies.
Enjoy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
RV-4, N722DW, a 12-year project
> >From: David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RV-List: RV-4 N504RV Flew today
> >Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 17:51:20 -0800 (PST)
> >
> >
> >Hey listers:
> >Thanks to many of you who support and are active on the RV-List, My RV-4,
> >N504RV flew from Nut Tree Airport today. First flight, 40 minutes, to
> >9,000 feet, ended with ground observing smoke and a leaky gasket to the
> >prop gov. Otherwise, COOOOOL!
>
> Get business advice and resources to improve your work life, from
bCentral.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleveland Brake Assembly |
Sounds right to me. That's how I did mine. One can change them as you
describe, by swapping the "thingys"
Steve Struyk
RV-8, N842S (res.)
St. Charles, MO
wiring
----- Original Message -----
From: "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com>
Subject: RV-List: Cleveland Brake Assembly
>
> I can't recall how I assembled my Cleveland brakes 10 years ago to get
both
> the input high pressure lines on the top of the caliber assembly....I
> suspect I merely changed the location of the bleeder port thingy that
> Cleveland supplied...that way both input lines were on top and the bleeder
> thingys were on the bottom after installation...if my recollection is
right
> it wouldn't make any difference which 'port' is used as the high pressure
> input.
>
> Does that sound right? A friend building an RV7 is scratching his head as
to
> how I did it...so am I !
>
> Does my shaky memory sound right?
>
> John
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Shemp" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gretz trim servo travel |
Did you ever run out of nose down trim?
Jeff Dowling
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Gretz trim servo travel
>
> The Gretz electric trim in my 6A had insufficient authority to trim the
> plane in all configurations. In particular, on final with full flaps, I
had
> to exert some stick back pressure. I do not like flying an out-of-trim
> plane, so in retrospect the manual trim would have been a better solution.
I
> chose the electric trim to get rid of that big knob that seemed to be in
the
> wrong place!
>
> Regards,
>
> Dennis Persyk N600DP sold
> Pictures at http://home.att.net/~dpersyk/rv6a.htm
>
> From: "Charles Becker" <ctbecker(at)charter.net>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Gretz trim servo travel
>
>
> I agree with an earlier post. I think that you are applying the elevator
up
> and down requirements to the trim tab.
>
> Charles Becker
> N464CB RV8A(e)
> Wings
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jakent(at)unison.ie
> Subject: RV-List: Gretz trim servo travel
>
>
> The trim tab horn is shorter for the electric trim. Remember the servo
only
> has 1.2 inch travel and the cable travels more than this with the manual
> trim.
> If, as in my case, changing he horn is too much metal butchery, then do
as
> I did and instal a ratio arm (lever) between the servo and cable end. On
my
> RV-4 it let me get full tab travel and also let me reverse the direction
of
> the servo to make a neater installation. Just do the maths for the correct
> lever ratios. John Kent (Ireland)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finn.lassen(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | O-290D2 cylinders wanted |
A freind of mine, who is not on the Internet, is looking for servicable
O-290D2 cylinders for his RV-3.
Please call him, if you have a lead or what he wants.
Mike: 813-884-4600.
Finn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <impalaflyer(at)sev.org> |
| Subject: | Crossover Exhaust with Mufflers? |
Does anyone have mufflers on their Lycoming powered RV? What's your
experience been? Would you do it again?
Has anyone installed the exhaust system with Mufflers from
http://www.aircraftexhaust.net yet?
I'm installing an O-320 and a fixed pitch Sensenich prop which has a 2600
red-line. I'm thinking this should limit my tip speed noise somewhat so
before I buy an exhaust system without mufflers I was wondering if anyone
has ANYTHING (good or bad) to say about a system with mufflers as it applies
to an RV.
Thanks,
Tony Kirk
RV-6A Finish
http://members.accesstoledo.com/jkirk/rv6a/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tommy Mead" <bigun73(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AIRPORT THREATS-not RV related |
one thing to consider is the revenue produced by "hosting" a NASCAR race. every
driver, owner, and crew fly to the race site. that is, there will be at least
43 drivers, somewhere around 25 owners, and several hundred crew members, and
the sponsors and their associates, and fans that fly in in RV's and Spam cans.
all of these people will be looking for food, hotels, and jet-A and 100LL. also,
they will need a tie down spot or hanger, and many other things. so some
of the revenue generated could be used to effect airport repairs or upgrades,
parks, and other civic and economic ventures in your community.
just another way to look at a 3 to 4 day hold on flying out of your home airport.
another possibility to look at is moving your plane to another airport and
rent your hanger to someone flying in.
My only interest in NASCAR is as a fan. and I lived in Florence, South Carolina.
it is fifteen minutes from Darlington raceway. twice a year, the race would
"come to town". The impact on the community is tremendous. restaurants, hotels,
stores, and many other businesses would do millions in revenue.
NASCAR is also extremely committed to communities that they visit. as I said, just
another way to look at the situation.
thank you,
Tommy Mead
bigun73(at)msn.com
----- Original Message -----
From: JNice51355(at)aol.com<mailto:JNice51355(at)aol.com>
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2004 2:56 PM
Subject: RV-List: AIRPORT THREATS-not RV related
Folks
International Speedway Corporation of Daytona, Florida is collecting
information about possible track sites in the pacific northwest. It is quite
disturbing, as there is alot that comes with the building of a "major" racing
facility.
In my neck of the woods, at least(I believe they are looking along the I-5
corridor in WA & OR) there are three possible sites that may be considered.
ALL THREE sites, if developed, would adversely affect general aviation via
TFR's. TWO of these are just South of Arlington Municipal Airport, home of the
EAANW Fly-In.
If a dot was placed on the map in the approx. center of the proposed track
site, and a 3NM radius drawn, either of those two sites would "totally
encompass" the airport. The patrons at the airport are pursuing various methods
to
ensure the final siting is not too close to any airport, much less this one.
We
will also be working to get out the word to homeowners, since there are ALOT
of these folks that would also be adversely affected.
We are NOT Anti-NASCAR here, but we are certainly hoping that there will be a
way for ISC to meet their "criteria" for a site without beating down airports
and homeowners. There are other sites also being considered. It is my
thought that if there is enough visibility given to Arlington Municipal Airport
along with other airports in general, that it may play into their decision as
to
where to site a facility.
If there is any interest by the folks on this list, it would be appreciated
if contact could be made with Thomas Valley, Director of Corporate Development,
International Speedway Corporation, 1801 International Speedway Blvd.,
Daytona, Florida 32114. The phone number is 386-254-2700.
There are two lines of thought to me right now. One is the fact that these
folks be made to understand things in a Post 9/11 mentality. The other is that
if they just plain don't care about these matters, that they understand that
some of these sites might be mired in litigation should that become necessary.
Generally, I would think that they are looking for a big bang for the buck
without alot of unforseen headaches. There may be other sites that would work
better in that regard, like ones that are set just a little farther from
subdivisions and airports.
Any help in attempting to preserve our "little piece of paradise" would be
greatly appreciated.
James Nice
WA State
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Walker" <ron(at)walker.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleveland Brake Assembly |
Sounds right to me. A couple weeks back I was at this step and on one of the
brakes just removed the bleeder fitting and put it in the opposite side
hole. This allowed both lines to be a the top of the bake assemblies. My A&P
was here at the time and those were his instructions.
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com>
Subject: RV-List: Cleveland Brake Assembly
>
> I can't recall how I assembled my Cleveland brakes 10 years ago to get
both
> the input high pressure lines on the top of the caliber assembly....I
> suspect I merely changed the location of the bleeder port thingy that
> Cleveland supplied...that way both input lines were on top and the bleeder
> thingys were on the bottom after installation...if my recollection is
right
> it wouldn't make any difference which 'port' is used as the high pressure
> input.
>
> Does that sound right? A friend building an RV7 is scratching his head as
to
> how I did it...so am I !
>
> Does my shaky memory sound right?
>
> John
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Narco AT150 Pin Orientation |
List:
Those that have installed AT150 Transponders..........
If you are looking at the back of the radio, Which side is pin 1 for the molex
connector? Is pin one on the right or the left?
I have an installation manual and for the life of me I cannot see where that is
designated. They do show a diagram for a connnector for a voltage converter
which I do not need, but not for the transponder.
Any help is much appreciated.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
Panel
Peshtigo, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Alternator Indicator Light hookup |
Does anyone on the List know if an indicator light can be hooked up to the
unused Yellow wire on Van's 35 amp system?
Dan (for Weasel)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Ugrades Update... |
In a message dated 3/14/04 1:15:33 PM Central Standard Time, randy@rv-8.com
writes:
> 2. The interface looks like it requires a stylus -- anyone concerned about
> using a stylus while bouncing around in a cockpit?
Hi Randy-
I'm using 2 PDAs built into my panel (EFIS & GPS) and when the going gets
bumpy they sometimes do require several stabs to hit the right thing. Some time
ago I saw some little plastic styluses (styli?) that just slipped over your
fingertip (think Halloween witches fingernails!) that looked like a good
solution with a little pad of velcro on top of it for storage under the glareshield.
Problem is, I haven't been able to find any locally or on the internet-
Anyone know where to get these?
Mark Phillips - RV-6A N51PW - 50+ hours of grin! 8-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harvey Sigmon" <rv6hes(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Narco AT150 Pin Orientation |
Jeff: Looking from the back of the connector the left side is number 1.
Looking very close at the connector you will see the numbers.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: Narco AT150 Pin Orientation
>
> List:
>
> Those that have installed AT150 Transponders..........
>
> If you are looking at the back of the radio, Which side is pin 1 for the
molex connector? Is pin one on the right or the left?
>
> I have an installation manual and for the life of me I cannot see where
that is designated. They do show a diagram for a connnector for a voltage
converter which I do not need, but not for the transponder.
>
> Any help is much appreciated.
>
> Regards,
>
> Jeff Orear
> RV6A
> Panel
> Peshtigo, WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Microaor 760 Comm |
vansairforce
Anyone have any experience with having a Microair Radio repaired? Is there
a repair shop in the US?
-Bill VonDane
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: > Re: Narco AT 150 Pin Orientation |
I can't give you a definite answer without removing the top skin from our
RV-4. The numbers are stamped in the plastic of the connector on top. They are
TINY though. I rubbed a black felt pen over them before I started wiring the
connector,to make them more visible.
Hope this helps,
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
do not arvhive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ollie Washburn" <ollie-6a(at)prodigy.net> |
To all flying RV'ers, RV builders, or just thinking about building, for the best
slow smoked pork bar-bq in the Southeast (imho) plus hamburgers, hotdogs, ham
and all the other fixins come to our fly-in this Sat.Mar. 20th at Love's Landing
Airpark (97FL) located 10 mi. North of Leesburg Fl. airport. This is the
Mar. event for FL wing of Van's Airforce.
There will be coffee and doughnuts for the early birds and lunch at noon. No programs,
just a lot of RV tales and fellowship.
For more info plus picture and satellite image look under activities calendar
on Doug Reeve's great site-
http://www.vansairforce.net/ or ollie-6a@prodigy.net
Note: This is private airport; land at your own risk.
Ollie Washburn 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ugrades Update... |
I have a the new iPAQ 5555 and have been messing with it since day one,
installing crap and whipping it and installing more crap, and I have never
had a lockup of any kind... Not that it will never happen, but I think they
are really getting good now...
The 5555 has the 400 MHz XScale processor and 128 MB of onboard SDRAM, and I
added an 128 MB SD card so I have plenty of storage space... It also have
built in Wi-Fi/WLAN and Bluetooth... The Bluetooth is nice because I can
use a Bluetooth GPS receiver and have no wires to dink with in the
cockpit... Oh, and the battery is replaceable like a cell phone! Probably
one of the nicest features...
One more thing, if I don't want anyone else to use the thing I can set the
security to only unlock after it scans and recognizes my fingerprint...
Pretty freakin cool, and it actually works!
Anyway, this is my 4th iPAQ and easily the best... There are a lot of guys
here at work that have different variations on the palm, and nothing
compares in my opinion...
Other software I am running on it right now:
Airport Insight - http://www.notamd.com/
FB FltLog - http://www.frontbeach.com/pocketlog/basic/
I am also looking at some checklist apps now, there are a lot of them!
-Bill VonDane
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Ugrades Update...
Bill,
I've been watching these PDA-based solutions for some time, and have used a
simple one in my glider with great success to run glide computer software.
As I contemplate what to put in the panel of my new RV-3B project these look
attractive but I still have two major concerns...
1. The PocketPC operating system is a typical Microsoft product and is
complicated and bloated code and therefore prone to crashing, and managing
it does require some real understanding of it. Anyone concerned about OS
stability?
2. The interface looks like it requires a stylus -- anyone concerned about
using a stylus while bouncing around in a cockpit?
Thoughts on these?
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 368 hrs, sold
RV-3B, starting construction
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com>
Subject: RV-List: Ugrades Update...
>
> Got my panel done and ready to paint...
>
> I also got my new moving map software yesterday and have been playing
around
> with this morning... It's the Mountain Scope Moving Map stuff from
> www.pcavionics.com... So far I think it's VERY COOL... I have posted a
> bunch of screen shots and info to my site...
>
> http://www.vondane.com/rv8a/finish/finish13.htm
>
> -Bill VonDane
> EAA Tech Counselor
> RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
> www.vondane.com
> www.creativair.com
> www.epanelbuilder.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cleveland Brake Assembly |
In a message dated 3/14/04 2:37:03 PM Pacific Standard Time,
n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com writes:
<< Does my shaky memory sound right? >>
Yes
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, final assembly
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ugrades Update... |
Randy,
I would not want to use any windows products in flight crital computers. However,
it is being done today by Avidine. There are several Electronic Flights Bag
products that allow no paper in the cockpit that are windows based. For my
own flying I have been using some map software on an Ipaq. I have never had
the Ipaq lockup in flight (I have had problems with the GPS but not the Ipaq)
I reboot the ipaq before each flight and only run my flight software.
As for using a stylus, it can get tricky. I only fly VFR so route changes don't
happen to often in the air. You can get a finger tip stylus that some people
realy seem to like and make selection easier if you bouncing around. One other
thing that helps is to have a place to brace your hand when your trying to
touch the screen.
Hope this helps,
Alan Kritzman
Cedar Rapids, IA
RV-8
I've been watching these PDA-based solutions for some time, and have used a
simple one in my glider with great success to run glide computer software.
As I contemplate what to put in the panel of my new RV-3B project these look
attractive but I still have two major concerns...
1. The PocketPC operating system is a typical Microsoft product and is
complicated and bloated code and therefore prone to crashing, and managing
it does require some real understanding of it. Anyone concerned about OS
stability?
2. The interface looks like it requires a stylus -- anyone concerned about
using a stylus while bouncing around in a cockpit?
Thoughts on these?
Randy Lervold
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Microaor 760 Comm(add T-2000) |
Hi Bill-
I had a problem with mine shortly after initial installation- e-mailed
Australia and got instructions for return, boxed it up and took it to the post
office. Was back with no charge after about 10-12 days, IIRC.
While we're airing our Micros, has anyone else had the NO COMM error on their
T-2000? Happens when I try to punch in a new code. According to manual, it
may have to go back to Oz as well...
Mark Phillips
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Ugrades Update... |
In a message dated 3/15/04 12:29:55 PM Central Standard Time, N13eer(at)aol.com
writes:
> As for using a stylus, it can get tricky. I only fly VFR so route changes
> don't happen to often in the air. You can get a finger tip stylus that some
> people realy seem to like and make selection easier if you bouncing around.
> One other thing that helps is to have a place to brace your hand when your
> trying to touch the screen.
Found the fingertip sylus at: http://www.truetip.com/
It's irritating that they require you to open an "account" to buy a $10 item,
though......
Mark Phillips
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
RV-6 N187CF, aka The Spruce Moose, took to the skies today for the first
time. The flight was about 25 minutes, during which we climbed out to
5,000 ft. over the airport, checked temps and such, and came back for a
landing. It flies like a dream, with only a slight heaviness to the
right wing.
Stats:
RV-6 tip-up, slow build kit #25728, started 9/99.
Approx. 1800 hours build time over 4 1/2 years.
Aerosport Power O-360/ Ed Sterba 70X82 prop.
Basic IFR panel w/ Dynon
Heavy, but very comfortable Oregon aero seats
1,067lbs empty (surprisingly heavy, I question the scales...)
I didn't get much in the way of numbers, other than a climb of 1500fpm
at 100 kts. CHTs never went above 400, on a brand new engine. Lots of
little things to be tweaked over the next few weeks.
Many thanks to Matt for the list, as well as all listers who have been
such a help over the years. Thanks to Alex Dedominicis for the
transition training, which was a tremendous help. And of course, thanks
Van for such a great design.
Pictures and numbers will follow when time allows.
Jeff Point
RV-6 FLYING!
Milwaukee, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cory Emberson" <bootless(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Request: Information for Kitplanes Article (Interiors/Exteriors) |
Thanks, Shemp! I'm running out the door now, but will write back this
evening.
best,
Cory
----- Original Message -----
From: "Shemp" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Request: Information for Kitplanes Article
(Interiors/Exteriors)
>
> Look at Jim Noram's Razmataz.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Cory Emberson" <bootless(at)earthlink.net>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Request: Information for Kitplanes Article
> (Interiors/Exteriors)
>
>
> >
> > Hello!
> >
> > I am writing an article for Kitplanes magazine that will feature
builders
> who have distinctive interiors and/or exteriors.
> >
> > My deadline is rather short, so if you could email me as soon as
possible,
> hopefully by Tuesday, that will give me enough time to put it together.
> >
> > Here are some of the criteria I'm looking for:
> >
> > Interiors that are (one or any combination):
> >
> > 1. creative
> > 2. inexpensive
> > 3. very comfortable
> > 4. lightweight
> > 5. generally cool and different
> > 6. distinctive in some way.
> >
> > Exteriors that are:
> >
> > 1.. stunningly attractive
> > 2.. original design
> > 3.. historically accurate
> > 4.. distinctive in some way
> > Other things to keep in mind:
> >
> > 1. How you came to design your interior/exterior (How you got your idea)
> > 2. The reasons why you did it as you did
> > 3. What benefits you had in mind
> > 4. Any unexpected benefits (and/or pitfalls) there were
> > 5. What you learned
> > 6. How many hours you've flown with it (if completed)
> > 7. How much of the work did you do yourself?
> > 8. Did you have any professional assistance? How much?
> > 9. The equipment and tools you used
> > 10. How much time it took to build and install
> > 11. The cost of building it.
> > 12. Would you do it again the same way? Why?
> >
> >
> > Here are the photo requirements for Kitplanes: Photos must be 300 dpi at
a
> size large enough to use in the magazine, which is usually at least 3 x 3
> inches. If an image is 300 dpi at 1 x 1 inch, it won't be big enough to do
> any good. Hard copy photos are good, too.
> >
> > Thanks so much - I really appreciate your help!
> >
> > best regards,
> >
> > Cory Emberson
> > Hayward, CA [KHWD]
> > 510.599.4409
> > cory(at)lightspeededit.com
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Crossover Exhaust with Mufflers? |
>... I was wondering if anyone
>has ANYTHING (good or bad) to say about a system with mufflers as it applies
>to an RV.
You did say ANYTHING - right? :-)
Thanks for looking into this. I really feel we all need to do
our little part to keep aviation available to our children and
grandchildren. Reducing the noise factor helps.
We added a pretty serious muffler on our club's Piper Cherokee,
which *greatly* reduced the noise, and I really didn't notice
any difference in power output. Clearly there was a reduction,
but I could not sense it while flying. It's completely under
the cowl, so no additional drag.
You don't see people that live near a lake complaining about
the sailboats out there!
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Younie" <rv6capt(at)pacificcoast.net> |
| Subject: | TV Camera for Sale |
I know a few guys are thinking about installing cameras on their aircraft. Here's
a camera that I can get for whoever is interested. This is just the camera,
receiver, antenna and transformers - they work on 9V, NTSC system 380 lines,
color and sound. Quality is excellent. You will still need a recorder to record
the images. The photo pretty much speaks for itself. If anyone wants more
information, contact me at rv6capt(at)pacificcoast.net
$78 (US) each set
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Carson City Fly-in |
NO SR-71 or RV-11 but we will have the RV-10. And yes this event is in
Nevada. This fly-in will be our first so we'll see how many it drawls. Bruce
>From: kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Carson City Fly-in
>Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 18:51:05 -0800
>
>
>At 03:51 PM 3/13/2004, you wrote:
> >
> >The dates are Apr. 30th through May 2nd. The 30th is set up for early
> >arrivals. You can find more info. on vansaircraft.com under FLY-IN
>SCHEDULE.
> >That will forward you to the host sight. Thanks for the interest and hope
> >you and some others can make it. Bruce
>Thanks for the invite, Bruce!
>
>I did the linking and jumping and found that indeed, the fly in is at
>CARSON CITY , NEVADA. (Not carson city, NY.)
>
>It has so far been a somewhat secretive event so it must really be worth
>attending - maybe the SR71 will fly by or the Wright Flyer or even the
>RV11?
>
>hal
>(This Paso Robles Zinfandel is some good wine!)
>
>
One-click access to Hotmail from any Web page download MSN Toolbar now!
http://clk.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200413ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
Bless you & "the Moose" Jeff...
and here's wishing Calm Blue Skies to you both.
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: RV-List: First Flight
>
> RV-6 N187CF, aka The Spruce Moose, took to the skies today for the first
> time. The flight was about 25 minutes, during which we climbed out to
> 5,000 ft. over the airport, checked temps and such, and came back for a
> landing. It flies like a dream, with only a slight heaviness to the
> right wing.
>
> Stats:
> RV-6 tip-up, slow build kit #25728, started 9/99.
> Approx. 1800 hours build time over 4 1/2 years.
> Aerosport Power O-360/ Ed Sterba 70X82 prop.
> Basic IFR panel w/ Dynon
> Heavy, but very comfortable Oregon aero seats
> 1,067lbs empty (surprisingly heavy, I question the scales...)
>
> I didn't get much in the way of numbers, other than a climb of 1500fpm
> at 100 kts. CHTs never went above 400, on a brand new engine. Lots of
> little things to be tweaked over the next few weeks.
>
> Many thanks to Matt for the list, as well as all listers who have been
> such a help over the years. Thanks to Alex Dedominicis for the
> transition training, which was a tremendous help. And of course, thanks
> Van for such a great design.
>
> Pictures and numbers will follow when time allows.
>
> Jeff Point
> RV-6 FLYING!
> Milwaukee, WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie & Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Non-RV related Hanger related |
SportAV8R(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>If you are willing to do it all yourself & just need an RV sized hangar
>(30' span), drop me a line for a way to do it even cheaper that that.
>
>Charlie
>
>Charlie: you've stood in my 36x48x12 hangar recently, a homebuilt pole building
with engineered trusses on 4 foot centers, and I've got about $10k in it all-up
(slab, sides, roof, doors, water & electric). I bet you can get him in a
30 foot span for cheap if he's willing to swing his own hammer :-)
>
>-Bill Boyd
>Clifton Forge, VA
>
Hi Bill,
First, pencil in the 1st Saturday in June so ya'll can come on down to
Slobovia & eat whatever we decide to cook for our next flyin. Just throw
in a couple of sleeping bags & we'll find a place out of the heat for
you to sleep. It might even be a bed!
Now, on to the hangar:
$10k is really impressive considering that your hangar is complete with
door, power, water, etc.
I added a 30' X 48' 'lean-to' to my hangar about 5 years ago, & the
metal purlins (rafters) & roofing came to about $1500. The slab was
around $2k, with me doing the form work but paying for the pour &
finishing. I believe I could do a bare bones 30x50 for under $5k. I keep
threatening to write a magazine article about it, but priorities.....
Come see us & bring the family.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "GMC" <gmcnutt(at)uniserve.com> |
| Subject: | Microaor 760 Comm |
Hi Bill
No direct experience but check with American Avionics in Seattle. If I
remember correctly they said that normally the Microair goes back to
Australia for warranty work but that they did have complete circuit boards
for the Microair.
George in Langley
-----------
Anyone have any experience with having a Microair Radio repaired? Is there
a repair shop in the US?
-Bill VonDane
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie & Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Party invitation (was: Non-RV related Hanger related) |
OOPS; thought this was going straight to Bill, but consider it your pre
invitation announcement for our next weekend party here at Slobovia
Outernational (MS71) near Jackson MS.
Details to follow.
Charlie
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Re: RV-List: Non-RV related Hanger related
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 19:18:12 -0600
From: Charlie & Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
SportAV8R(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>If you are willing to do it all yourself & just need an RV sized hangar
>(30' span), drop me a line for a way to do it even cheaper that that.
>
>Charlie
>
>Charlie: you've stood in my 36x48x12 hangar recently, a homebuilt pole building
with engineered trusses on 4 foot centers, and I've got about $10k in it all-up
(slab, sides, roof, doors, water & electric). I bet you can get him in a
30 foot span for cheap if he's willing to swing his own hammer :-)
>
>-Bill Boyd
>Clifton Forge, VA
>
Hi Bill,
First, pencil in the 1st Saturday in June so ya'll can come on down to
Slobovia & eat whatever we decide to cook for our next flyin. Just throw
in a couple of sleeping bags & we'll find a place out of the heat for
you to sleep. It might even be a bed!
Now, on to the hangar:
$10k is really impressive considering that your hangar is complete with
door, power, water, etc.
I added a 30' X 48' 'lean-to' to my hangar about 5 years ago, & the
metal purlins (rafters) & roofing came to about $1500. The slab was
around $2k, with me doing the form work but paying for the pour &
finishing. I believe I could do a bare bones 30x50 for under $5k. I keep
threatening to write a magazine article about it, but priorities.....
Come see us & bring the family.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie & Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Party invitation (was: Non-RV related Hanger related) |
OOPS; thought this was going straight to Bill, but consider it your pre
invitation announcement for our next weekend party here at Slobovia
Outernational (MS71) near Jackson MS.
Details to follow.
Charlie
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Re: RV-List: Non-RV related Hanger related
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 19:18:12 -0600
From: Charlie & Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
SportAV8R(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>If you are willing to do it all yourself & just need an RV sized hangar
>(30' span), drop me a line for a way to do it even cheaper that that.
>
>Charlie
>
>Charlie: you've stood in my 36x48x12 hangar recently, a homebuilt pole building
with engineered trusses on 4 foot centers, and I've got about $10k in it all-up
(slab, sides, roof, doors, water & electric). I bet you can get him in a
30 foot span for cheap if he's willing to swing his own hammer :-)
>
>-Bill Boyd
>Clifton Forge, VA
>
Hi Bill,
First, pencil in the 1st Saturday in June so ya'll can come on down to
Slobovia & eat whatever we decide to cook for our next flyin. Just throw
in a couple of sleeping bags & we'll find a place out of the heat for
you to sleep. It might even be a bed!
Now, on to the hangar:
$10k is really impressive considering that your hangar is complete with
door, power, water, etc.
I added a 30' X 48' 'lean-to' to my hangar about 5 years ago, & the
metal purlins (rafters) & roofing came to about $1500. The slab was
around $2k, with me doing the form work but paying for the pour &
finishing. I believe I could do a bare bones 30x50 for under $5k. I keep
threatening to write a magazine article about it, but priorities.....
Come see us & bring the family.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Hultzapple" <thultzap(at)rochester.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Intake scoop for Sam James cowl. |
Hello listers, I am building an RV8A with an O-360 carb engine. What Intake
scoop should I use for the intake air? Van's sells one for the RV4 and one
for the RV6, but none for the 8.
Ted H.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <Tim_Lewis(at)msm.umr.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Ugrades Update... |
> Absolutely valid concerns! I'm planning on a mini PC in my
> RV10...moving map GPS, MP3's, DVD, flight planning software, etc.
> My
> main concerns are ops sys, and user interface. Oh, the survivability of
> hard drives in a choppy flight environment gives me pause as well, but
> this will not be a safety of flight concern...merely an annoyance.
> I'm planning on this solely as a nice-to-have item, and can
> aviate/navigate/communicate just fine without it. Oh, it also rates
> very high on the "cool factor" scale. ;)
I'm planning a similar setup for my RV-10. Proven (non-Bill Gates)
systems for primary aviate/navigate/communicate. Glass panel (tablet PC
such as Motion M1300VA with indoor/outdoor display) for large moving
map, weather (WxWorx.com), CD/DVD, flight planning S/W, etc.
I've also been concerned about hard drive survivability. I think a viable
solution is to remove the hard drive entirely and go with solid state main
memory (USB thumb drive, or similar). There are already bootable thumb
drives, so it appears this approach could be undertaken today. By the
time my RV-10 is ready to have the tablet PC mounted I should be able to
get a lot more tablet PC for the money, with huge solid state "hard drive"
available for a fraction of today's price. Now, if WxWorx/XM will just
come down from that $50/month price point...
Tim
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 600 hrs
RV-10 #40059 under construction
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD - 600 hrs
RV-10 #40059 under construction
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: OT: Oshkosh bound... |
Ken,
The ground at OSH is sandy and rocky and difficult to get the screw-in tie
down anchors to go into. You may want to make sure you have some good tiedowns
that will work in that kind of soil. They were described on the EAA web site
last year. I haven't looked this year. Each one has three long "nails" that
drive into the ground. I used to use the "medium dog size" corkscrew type but
those aren't too good up there.
Dan RV-7A ( getting closer -- hope to fly this Spring)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas A. Fischer" <dfischer(at)iserv.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleveland Brake Assembly |
Maybe I'm remembering this wrong from bleeding brakes in my old auto-shop
days, but isn't the bleeder valve ("thingy") supposed to be at the top?
It's purpose is to purge the system / caliper of air and the air naturally
floats to the top in the caliper piston cavity. Having the bleeder at the
bottom may allow trapped air to stay in the caliper. Maybe aircraft
calipers are different but it seems they should function the same as on an
auto.
Doug Fischer
-9A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Walker" <ron(at)walker.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland Brake Assembly
>
> Sounds right to me. A couple weeks back I was at this step and on one of
the
> brakes just removed the bleeder fitting and put it in the opposite side
> hole. This allowed both lines to be a the top of the bake assemblies. My
A&P
> was here at the time and those were his instructions.
>
> Ron
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Cleveland Brake Assembly
>
>
> >
> > I can't recall how I assembled my Cleveland brakes 10 years ago to get
> both
> > the input high pressure lines on the top of the caliber assembly....I
> > suspect I merely changed the location of the bleeder port thingy that
> > Cleveland supplied...that way both input lines were on top and the
bleeder
> > thingys were on the bottom after installation...if my recollection is
> right
> > it wouldn't make any difference which 'port' is used as the high
pressure
> > input.
> >
> > Does that sound right? A friend building an RV7 is scratching his head
as
> to
> > how I did it...so am I !
> >
> > Does my shaky memory sound right?
> >
> > John
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Cleveland Brake Assembly |
>
> Maybe I'm remembering this wrong from bleeding brakes in my
> old auto-shop days, but isn't the bleeder valve ("thingy")
> supposed to be at the top? It's purpose is to purge the
> system / caliper of air and the air naturally floats to the
> top in the caliper piston cavity. Having the bleeder at the
> bottom may allow trapped air to stay in the caliper. Maybe
> aircraft calipers are different but it seems they should
> function the same as on an auto.
>
> Doug Fischer
> -9A
Doug, they are different. The "bleeder" is on the bottom, but hydraulic
fluid (don't use brake fluid!) is pumped into this port and pushed all
the way through the master cylinders and on to the reservoir. Actually
quite simple to do, and you don't need two people, either.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 445 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleveland Brake Assembly |
Maybe it is simple on your airplane, but on a -4 it is usually a real
P.I.T.A. -4s tend to have a loop above the master cylinder and I have never
been able to back-bleed them, I always have to push it down from the top
with my finger over the bleeder. It takes a bunch of fluid and makes a big
mess. One of the worst airplanes I know of to bleed the brakes on. I have
talked to others who tell the same story on the -4.
Doug Rozendaal
> Actually
> quite simple to do, and you don't need two people, either.
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> RV6-A N66AP 445 hours
> http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
| Subject: | Cleveland Brake Assembly |
Most A/P's bleed the brakes with a pressure pot, from the bottom up.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Douglas A.
Fischer
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland Brake Assembly
Maybe I'm remembering this wrong from bleeding brakes in my old
auto-shop
days, but isn't the bleeder valve ("thingy") supposed to be at the top?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Intake scoop for Sam James cowl. |
> Hello listers, I am building an RV8A with an O-360 carb engine. What
Intake
> scoop should I use for the intake air? Van's sells one for the RV4 and one
> for the RV6, but none for the 8.
> Ted H.
Ted,
I believe I used the one for the RV-6...
http://www.rv-8.com/Cowl.htm
Have fun!
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 368 hrs, sold
RV-3B, starting construction
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Jeff,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: RV List
>Subject: RV-List: First Flight
>Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 14:42:57 -0600
>
>
>RV-6 N187CF, aka The Spruce Moose, took to the skies today for the first
>time. The flight was about 25 minutes, during which we climbed out to
>5,000 ft. over the airport, checked temps and such, and came back for a
>landing. It flies like a dream, with only a slight heaviness to the
>right wing.
>
>Stats:
>RV-6 tip-up, slow build kit #25728, started 9/99.
>Approx. 1800 hours build time over 4 1/2 years.
>Aerosport Power O-360/ Ed Sterba 70X82 prop.
>Basic IFR panel w/ Dynon
>Heavy, but very comfortable Oregon aero seats
>1,067lbs empty (surprisingly heavy, I question the scales...)
>
>I didn't get much in the way of numbers, other than a climb of 1500fpm
>at 100 kts. CHTs never went above 400, on a brand new engine. Lots of
>little things to be tweaked over the next few weeks.
>
>Many thanks to Matt for the list, as well as all listers who have been
>such a help over the years. Thanks to Alex Dedominicis for the
>transition training, which was a tremendous help. And of course, thanks
>Van for such a great design.
>
>Pictures and numbers will follow when time allows.
>
>Jeff Point
>RV-6 FLYING!
>Milwaukee, WI
>
>
One-click access to Hotmail from any Web page download MSN Toolbar now!
http://clk.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200413ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Cleveland Brake Assembly |
>
> Maybe it is simple on your airplane, but on a -4 it is
> usually a real P.I.T.A. -4s tend to have a loop above the
> master cylinder and I have never been able to back-bleed
> them, I always have to push it down from the top with my
> finger over the bleeder. It takes a bunch of fluid and makes
> a big mess. One of the worst airplanes I know of to bleed the
> brakes on. I have talked to others who tell the same story on the -4.
>
> Doug Rozendaal
Doug, you need to time your inverted flight just right, combined with a
little knife edge..... on a more serious note, is the tubing, from
which these loops above the master cylinders are made, too large a
diameter? Such that fluid/air gets mixed up? I would think that
shoving it in from the bottom of the wheel cylinders quickly enough
would take care of the mixing. It does require attaching a tube to the
top of the reservoir to catch the extra fluid belching out the top.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 445 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)QCBC.ORG> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleveland Brake Assembly |
For some reason, the RV series started with the master cylinders installed
up-side down creating a loop. It needs to be corrected with the lines
always going down hill. Otherwise you WILL have problem. Don't feel you
are alone. The Bonanza is difficult because the brake line goes down hill
due to the dihedral of the wing. You can make it easier by jacking up the
other side.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or sportpilot(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland Brake Assembly
>
> Maybe it is simple on your airplane, but on a -4 it is usually a real
> P.I.T.A. -4s tend to have a loop above the master cylinder and I have
never
> been able to back-bleed them, I always have to push it down from the top
> with my finger over the bleeder. It takes a bunch of fluid and makes a big
> mess. One of the worst airplanes I know of to bleed the brakes on. I have
> talked to others who tell the same story on the -4.
>
> Doug Rozendaal
>
>
> > Actually
> > quite simple to do, and you don't need two people, either.
> >
> > Alex Peterson
> > Maple Grove, MN
> > RV6-A N66AP 445 hours
> > http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Microaor 760 Comm |
rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com,
"vansairforce "
Hey Mark...
Good news... I called Microair last night and talked to one of their
techs... I told him the two things I THOUGHT I might have done to damage my
radio, which was; key the mic without an antenna, and operate the radio with
too low a voltage, and he told me neither one of those should have damaged
the radio... He told me to make a test cable and power up the radio on the
bench...
So I went back out to the hangar last night, did that and it worked fine...
Hooked everything back up in the plane again.....It all worked perfectly...
(I've had a battery charger on for a day at this point) ...so I guess the
low voltage that my battery was putting out wasn't enough for things to work
properly... So anyway, I don't need to get my radio repaired after all...
he also told me to have it repaired, if need be, would only be about two
weeks turn around, and he has never seen one that was more than $100 to
fix...
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: <menavrat(at)rockwellcollins.com>
Subject: Microaor 760 Comm
Ok Bill, don't leave us hangin', the suspense is killing me....did yours
break? What happened to it?
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D fwf....with Microair Comm for my panel....
From: Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com>
Subject: RV-List: Microaor 760 Comm
vansairforce
Anyone have any experience with having a Microair Radio repaired? Is there
a repair shop in the US?
-Bill VonDane
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon and Marge" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Cleveland Brake Assembly |
Subject: RE: RV-List: Cleveland Brake Assembly
>
> Maybe it is simple on your airplane, but on a -4 it is
> usually a real P.I.T.A. -4s tend to have a loop above the
> master cylinder and I have never been able to back-bleed
> them, I always have to push it down from the top with my
> finger over the bleeder. It takes a bunch of fluid and makes
> a big mess. One of the worst airplanes I know of to bleed the
> brakes on. I have talked to others who tell the same story on the -4.
>
> Doug Rozendaal
Doug, you need to time your inverted flight just right, combined with a
little knife edge..... on a more serious note, is the tubing, from
which these loops above the master cylinders are made, too large a
diameter? Such that fluid/air gets mixed up? I would think that
shoving it in from the bottom of the wheel cylinders quickly enough
would take care of the mixing. It does require attaching a tube to the
top of the reservoir to catch the extra fluid belching out the top.
Alex Peterson
I am using the nylon tubing for the brakes on the -4 so the fluid is
visible. I've found that by keeping the fluid reservoir filled and with
the bottom bleeder open, air bubbles, if they exist will flow down into
the brake assembly. From there, some are expelled but not all. After
closing the bleeder such air that is still in the brake assy will rise
to the top and appear at the elbow fitting. After the air stops
collecting, cracking the fitting will allow it to escape. Sometimes
this must be done more than once but it does a good job of ridding the
system of air.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Schilling Karl <Karl.Schilling(at)ssfhs.org> |
| Subject: | Cleveland Brake Assembly |
The cure for this is to use a vacuum bleeder and bleed from the bottom. You
can get one from your local auto parts store. If you contact Steve Wood @
RVator(at)aol.com he can help you get one if you aren't able to find one where
you live.
Karl RV-8 in Indy
-----Original Message-----
From: Gordon and Marge [mailto:gcomfo(at)tc3net.com]
Subject: RE: RV-List: Cleveland Brake Assembly
Subject: RE: RV-List: Cleveland Brake Assembly
>
> Maybe it is simple on your airplane, but on a -4 it is
> usually a real P.I.T.A. -4s tend to have a loop above the
> master cylinder and I have never been able to back-bleed
> them, I always have to push it down from the top with my
> finger over the bleeder. It takes a bunch of fluid and makes
> a big mess. One of the worst airplanes I know of to bleed the
> brakes on. I have talked to others who tell the same story on the -4.
>
> Doug Rozendaal
Doug, you need to time your inverted flight just right, combined with a
little knife edge..... on a more serious note, is the tubing, from
which these loops above the master cylinders are made, too large a
diameter? Such that fluid/air gets mixed up? I would think that
shoving it in from the bottom of the wheel cylinders quickly enough
would take care of the mixing. It does require attaching a tube to the
top of the reservoir to catch the extra fluid belching out the top.
Alex Peterson
I am using the nylon tubing for the brakes on the -4 so the fluid is
visible. I've found that by keeping the fluid reservoir filled and with
the bottom bleeder open, air bubbles, if they exist will flow down into
the brake assembly. From there, some are expelled but not all. After
closing the bleeder such air that is still in the brake assy will rise
to the top and appear at the elbow fitting. After the air stops
collecting, cracking the fitting will allow it to escape. Sometimes
this must be done more than once but it does a good job of ridding the
system of air.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
__________________________________
The information contained in this email and any accompanying documents is
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | RV8 horizontal stabilizer mounting problem |
Ouch. I goofed while drilling the holes for the forward
spar on the HS. I'm not sure what to do, and I would
appreciate any advice you can offer. I've got pictures
and details on my site, and I would be happy to hear
any advice or tips or tricks.
http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story 04031620072395
Thanks,
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8 horizontal stabilizer mounting problem |
I had a problem something like this and just added another angle bracket on
the other side, drilled and added an additional bolt on each side with
Van's blessing.
>
>Ouch. I goofed while drilling the holes for the forward
>spar on the HS. I'm not sure what to do, and I would
>appreciate any advice you can offer. I've got pictures
>and details on my site, and I would be happy to hear
>any advice or tips or tricks.
>
> http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story 04031620072395
>
>Thanks,
>Mickey
>
>
>--
>Mickey Coggins
>http://www.rv8.ch/
>#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
So what are the best tie-downs for OSH?
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
| Subject: | RV8 horizontal stabilizer mounting problem |
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Bilinski
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 horizontal stabilizer mounting problem
I had a problem something like this and just added another angle bracket on
the other side, drilled and added an additional bolt on each side with
Van's blessing.
>
>Ouch. I goofed while drilling the holes for the forward
>spar on the HS. I'm not sure what to do, and I would
>appreciate any advice you can offer. I've got pictures
>and details on my site, and I would be happy to hear
>any advice or tips or tricks.
>
> http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story 04031620072395
>
>Thanks,
>Mickey
>
>
>--
>Mickey Coggins
>http://www.rv8.ch/
>#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: K&N Filter... |
In a message dated 3/16/04 4:58:15 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
bill(at)vondane.com writes:
>
> Anyone have their K&N filter handy that could give me the part number off
> it?
>
> Thanks!
>
>
> -Bill VonDane
Bill,
The one for the IO-360 is 33-2060. I think that is the K&N number. Vans
number is E-33-2060.
Dan RV-7A (almost done)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randy Simpson <airtime(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: OSH tie-downs? |
Scott and others...
I'm kinda biased, but I think my titanium Ti-downs are by far the best
Tie-down option for OshKosh and anywhere else, for that matter *smile*
I wandered all over the OshKosh grounds the last two fly-in's, screwing in
the Ti-downs in all over the place, and they worked most excellently
there....I think that anyone that's used them will agree...
Less than two pounds total for the kit, easy to use, and extremely strong.
Two years ago, I got a kick outta seeing the big barrell of broken doggie
tie-downs there at Osh...shoulda taken a picture of that.
Sincerely,
Randy Simpson
Airtime Mfg.
http://www.airtimemfg.com
p.s. I'm working overtime trying to get caught up on orders right now...If
you've ordered a set or kit, they'll be shipped soon. My little note here
on the RV-list from a couple weeks ago was very successful, orderwise. Five
kits are going in the mail today, with the rest to follow later this week,
hopefully...
pp.s. After this coming friday (the first day of spring), the $10 RV-list
discount is going away, along with the free shipping...
------------
>
>So what are the best tie-downs for OSH?
>
>
>Scott Bilinski
>Eng dept 305
>Phone (858) 657-2536
>Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Re: OSH tie-downs |
These are the best I've found....highly recommended.
http://www.airtimemfg.com/
Read Sam B.'s product review at:
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/tidowns.html
Laird
>
>So what are the best tie-downs for OSH?
>
>
>Scott Bilinski
>Eng dept 305
>Phone (858) 657-2536
>Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: OSH tie-downs |
Scott Bilinski wrote:
>
>So what are the best tie-downs for OSH?
>
12" nails from home depot. You can use 3 at each tiedown pushed in like
a teepee with the rope wound around the apex. Useful in sand, clay and
hardpan (with a handy hammer). Cheap and easily replaced.
Linn
>
>
>Scott Bilinski
>Eng dept 305
>Phone (858) 657-2536
>Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "GMC" <gmcnutt(at)uniserve.com> |
| Subject: | RV8 horizontal stabilizer mounting problem |
Subject: RV-List: RV8 horizontal stabilizer mounting problem
Ouch. I goofed while drilling the holes for the forward
spar on the HS. I'm not sure what to do, and I would
appreciate any advice you can offer. I've got pictures
and details on my site, and I would be happy to hear
any advice or tips or tricks.
http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story 04031620072395
Thanks,
Mickey
Hi Mickey
I remember having edge distance problems in this area also.
If Vans says not to worry I would accept that, however just to make myself
feel even better I would make a 1/8" doubler plate that extends outboard far
enough to have proper hole edge distance (if possible) and inboard far
enough to pick up on the inboard bolt.
On another point if it is (was) the final installation the inboard bolt
looks long, make sure the nut is not bottoming out on the bolt shank.
George in Langley
________________________________________________________________________________
Scott, you know better than to ask for the "best" of anything on this
list:-) My choice is the titanium ti-downs. They only like dog
stakes, otherwise no comparison. They absolutely won't break and you can
twist them with enough force to penetrate any soil and rocks and get deep
enough to anchor firmly in almost anything, even the SnF sand. I've used
them with my Citabria and Navion at both OSH & SnF with no fear. I voted
with my wallet... I thought enough of them to buy 10 sets for Xmas gifts one
year.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
>
> --> <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
> So what are the best tie-downs for OSH?
>
>
> Scott Bilinski
> Eng dept 305
> Phone (858) 657-2536
> Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 horizontal stabilizer mounting problem |
Mickey,
How about using a one legged nut plate instead of an AN365 nut? I "think" the
number is MS21051-L3 The nutplate would be attached to the angle in question
with 2 AN426AD-3 rivets. The nutplate would be anchored to the angle through those
2 rivets, which would not be near any edge.
Charlie Kuss
>
>Ouch. I goofed while drilling the holes for the forward
>spar on the HS. I'm not sure what to do, and I would
>appreciate any advice you can offer. I've got pictures
>and details on my site, and I would be happy to hear
>any advice or tips or tricks.
>
> http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story 04031620072395
>
>Thanks,
>Mickey
>
>
>--
>Mickey Coggins
>http://www.rv8.ch/
>#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie & Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: OSH tie-downs |
Scott Bilinski wrote:
>
>So what are the best tie-downs for OSH?
>
>
>Scott Bilinski
>Eng dept 305
>Phone (858) 657-2536
>Pager (858) 502-5190
>
Here's the triple spike system someone mentioned:
http://www.theclaw.com/products/claw.php
Just some Mississippi good ol' boys tryin' to make a livin'.
Give 'em a call; we need the money down here. :-)
Charlie
(no financial ties to them)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
Scott:
I have used the same ones for 5 of the past 6 AirVenture Oshkosh. I
purchased them from Randy Simpson at http://www.airtimemfg.com/
Check the archives about 6 years ago to see what I and everyone else had to
say.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,442 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: RV-List: OSH tie-downs
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 13:39:54 -0800
<bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
So what are the best tie-downs for OSH?
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
http://clk.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 horizontal stabilizer mounting problem |
Mickey:
The same thing happened to me. Mine is QB and when they built that
section they just didn't overlap the angle enough with the longeron. So,
I drilled the hole properly centered in the longeron and it came out
looking exactly like your picture on the inside. Given the dimensions
of that angle that's rivetted in there, you don't have much choice.
On the advice of Vans I cut a strip of 1/8" 6061 Aluminum (I cut it out
of a piece of angle I had laying around) and made it long enough so that
it fit over those last 2 bolt holes. I was careful to make it extend as
far outboard as it could and then drilled it to the 2 existing holes.
I had to do that on each side. So, I have these 2 extra piece of 1/8"
AL in there forevermore. It serves as a sort of doubler and gives
adequate edge distance (well, much better edge distance, anyway) and a
sound place to tighten the bolt against.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A canopy.
Mickey Coggins wrote:
>
>Ouch. I goofed while drilling the holes for the forward
>spar on the HS. I'm not sure what to do, and I would
>appreciate any advice you can offer. I've got pictures
>and details on my site, and I would be happy to hear
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" <F.vanderHulst(at)ucol.ac.nz> |
I'd hate to take money away from your Mississippi boys, but US$120 is
*way* too steep for me.
However, it does look like the kind of thing that *any* good ol' RV
builder could put together on a Saturday afternoon with a few 12" nails,
a few 3/16" bolts, and some bits of .063" angle aluminum. The only
tricky thing would be how to attach the nails to the ends of the arms at
the right angle... anyone got any ideas there?
In fact, you could probably make them a bit smaller and lighter than the
original... it looks like (apart from stability issues) you would only
need *one* of the official Claw's to hold an RV down. Of course, the
limiting factor is th strength of the soil that you nail these into! But
maybe for RVs you could get away with 6" nails?
Or maybe you could make it all out of Titanium? :-)
Of course, you would have to buy your own hammer ;-)
Frank
> Here's the triple spike system someone mentioned:
>
> http://www.theclaw.com/products/claw.php
Learn real skills for the real world - Apply online
at http://www.ucol.ac.nz or call 0800 GO UCOL
(0800 46 8265) or txt free 3388 for more information
and make a good move to UCOL Universal College of
Learning.
Enrol with a public institute and be certain of your
future
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Holland" <hollandm(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Alternator Belts |
Went shopping for an alternator belt today and couldn't find a local parts shop
that carried Gates. They all sold the same brand called Dayco Top Cog. My question
has to do with belt quality. These belts have a ribbed back. When I
questioned the fact that less material may make them less durable, the response
was they were more durable since the ribs made them more flexible and they ran
cooler.
What is the skinny on belt quality/durability? Is this for real or just a way
to sell cheap belts to a naive belt buyer, like me?
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randy Simpson <airtime(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: OSH tie-downs |
>
>Scott Bilinski wrote:
>
<bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>>
>>So what are the best tie-downs for OSH?
>>
>>
>>Scott Bilinski
>>Eng dept 305
>>Phone (858) 657-2536
>>Pager (858) 502-5190
>>
>
>Here's the triple spike system someone mentioned:
>
>http://www.theclaw.com/products/claw.php
>
>Just some Mississippi good ol' boys tryin' to make a livin'.
>
>Give 'em a call; we need the money down here. :-)
>
>Charlie
>(no financial ties to them)
---------------
Listers, here's a little story.
Since I make a living making titanium Ti-downs for airplanes, I'm always
interested in other types of aircraft Tie-downs.
I first heard about "the claw" this past year while at the Arlington, WA
fly-in.
While wandering around, looking at all the cool planes, I met Bruce
Bohannan and "The Flying Tiger".
I'm sure most of you have heard about this record-breaking pilot and his
HIGHLY modified RV-4.
http://www.pilotjournal.com/content/2003/septoct/images/tiger/plane.jpg
The Tiger was tied down with the wimpy, weak doggie tie-downs.
Being the kidder I am, I began to tease Bruce about him holding his awesome
plane down with such crummy tie-downs.
Bruce explained to me that he has a really good tie-down kit called "the
claw", but didn't have them with him because he didn't have space in his
plane to carry them, and they were HEAVY (8 lbs).
Of course, I had to show him my titanium Ti-downs. He checked to see if the
Ti-down kit would fit in his little glovebox sized cargo compartment, and
yep, they fit easily in there.
I offered to give him a kit, but he declined because he didn't know if the
owner of the Flying Tiger had an exclusive deal with the maker of "the
claw", as they had given him the kit.
We chatted for a while, and discovered that we both were planning to be at
OshKosh in a coulple of weeks, and he'd talk to the Tiger's owner to see if
he could use my Ti-downs.
At OshKosh, I wandered around and finally found the Exxon display, Flying
Tiger, Bruce, and the Tiger's owner (sorry, I can't remember his name at
the moment).
Yep, it'd be no problem if Bruce used my Ti-downs, so I gave him a kit, and
they gave me 3 Flying Tiger T-shirts.
A little later the same day, while wandering around the vendor displays, I
came across the guy (Bill Alexander) selling "the claw"...
At first, I just looked at them, with enough interest for him to hold up a
kit for me to see closer, and he informed me that they "only weigh 8 lbs,
complete". I was kinda biting my lip, trying to decide if I should tell him
who I was. I was wearing a "Flying Tiger" T-shirt that Bruce had given me,
and Bill pointed at the picture on my shirt and said "that plane uses "the
claw"...
I shoulda just kept my mouth shut, but I blurted out "not anymore", before
I could stop myself. I kicked myself later for saying that.
Bill wanted to know what I meant by "not anymore", so I told him Bruce was
using my titanium Ti-downs now.
I let Bill know that Bruce spoke highly of his "claw", but he just didn't
have room to carry them. Bill told me that he had alot of people tell him
as they walked by that they already had some great titanium Ti-downs they'd
bought at OshKosh the year before.
We chatted pleasantly for another 10-15 minutes before I wished him well
with his business and moved on. I did see quite a few of his "claw" kits
holding down planes there, so I know he did sell some.
There are some other Tie-down kits available...
Fly-ties is one...(6 lb. kit)
http://www.flyties.com/airplanes.htm
Screw its, is another...and pretty cheap...(weight unknown)
http://www.mcp.com.au/screwits/
I personally think my titanium Ti-downs are the World's Best aircraft
Tie-downs, but like I said in an earlier message, I'm biased.
Keep on flying, and make sure you anchor your plane good, no matter what
system you use.
Sincerely,
Randy Simpson
Airtime Mfg.
http://www.airtimemfg.com
p.s. When I met Bruce Bohannan at Arlington, he happend to be chatting with
my all-time hero...Bob "Hurricane" Hannah, multi time National motocross
champion and past unlimited Reno air racer...
I got to hang out with Bob, and while eating lunch, he told me a great
story of his experience of almost losing his Piper Supercub in a sneak
windstorm (due to it not being tied down) while hunting rockchucks on a
mesa out in the boonies...he went totally nuts over my Ti-downs, and now
has a kit in his plane at all times...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ed " <ed_88(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | some questions from a new guy |
From: "ed \240" <ed_88@hotmai...
After about a year of lurking and considering I am getting real closing
to ordering an rv-8a kit. Although before I take the plunge I was hoping for
a little advice.
1) How do I find find builders in the seattle area? If I join eaa, will
the web page tell me there to go to meet other builders? From reading the
various web builde's logs out there, it looks like knowiing others is vital
to building a top quality kit.
2) How long should I expect to spend building a quickbuild rv-8a? I
have built various rc models, and consider myself OK with mechanical things.
However I have never worked with sheet metal or riviting before.
3) Would you consider the emp kit a good way to see if I am cut out for
home building?
4) I've never actually flown in an rv before. I assume it makes sense
to go to the factory and get a demo flight? Is there anything else I should
do while I am down there?
Sorry for the long list of questions, but I am getting real close to
placing an order :)
--Eddie
http://clk.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: OSH tie-downs |
Does anyone have horror stories about RV's blowing away in the wind?
This all seems a bit excessive.
Jeff Shemp Dowling
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator Belts |
Mike,
Dayco is a good brand as far as I know. It makes sense that increasing the
area may help get rid of the heat -- a little.
Gates is sold by NAPA. That's what I used.
Dan RV-7A (almost done)
In a message dated 3/17/04 12:44:15 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
hollandm(at)pacbell.net writes:
>
>
> Went shopping for an alternator belt today and couldn't find a local parts
> shop that carried Gates. They all sold the same brand called Dayco Top Cog.
> My question has to do with belt quality. These belts have a ribbed back.
> When I questioned the fact that less material may make them less durable, the
> response was they were more durable since the ribs made them more flexible and
> they ran cooler.
>
> What is the skinny on belt quality/durability? Is this for real or just a
> way to sell cheap belts to a naive belt buyer, like me?
>
> Thanks
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Trampas" <tstern(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Engine monitoring |
I just wanted to let you know that Stern Tech's engine monitor is now
shipping!
It is a graphical engine monitor which can be configured for any engine up
to 8 cylinders. The user can change the display layout and even sensors
calibration. Now you can have an engine monitor the way you want it.
If you have any questions please feel free to call me or email me.
Regards,
Trampas Stern
1-877-820-6590
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: some questions from a new guy |
Eddie,
You came to the right place for answers. I bet you get offered about 10
rides in RV-8s.
I expected to finish my RV-7A (slow build) in about 2 years. Its going to be
almost 3. And I'm retired. The quick build, in my opinion, won't save you
as much time as you may think. The sheet metal work goes pretty fast with the
prepunched kits. The instrument panel, canopy, wiring, and firewall forward
is what really slowed me down. Van's says, I think, about 1600 hours to build
an 8. I have gone over 2200 on my 7A, but I'm slow.
Everyone starts with the empennage. Yes, that will at least give you a
pretty good idea of what you're up against. Tenacity is the real virtue that will
get you to the end.
I'm sure you'll get lots of opinions, this is just mine of course!
Go for it,
Dan
RV-7A (almost done!)
In a message dated 3/17/04 2:53:22 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
ed_88(at)hotmail.com writes:
>
>
>
> After about a year of lurking and considering I am getting real closing
> to ordering an rv-8a kit. Although before I take the plunge I was hoping for
>
> a little advice.
>
> 1) How do I find find builders in the seattle area? If I join eaa, will
> the web page tell me there to go to meet other builders? From reading the
> various web builde's logs out there, it looks like knowiing others is vital
> to building a top quality kit.
>
> 2) How long should I expect to spend building a quickbuild rv-8a? I
> have built various rc models, and consider myself OK with mechanical things.
>
> However I have never worked with sheet metal or riviting before.
>
> 3) Would you consider the emp kit a good way to see if I am cut out for
> home building?
>
> 4) I've never actually flown in an rv before. I assume it makes sense
> to go to the factory and get a demo flight? Is there anything else I should
> do while I am down there?
>
>
> Sorry for the long list of questions, but I am getting real close to
> placing an order :)
> --Eddie
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: OSH tie-downs |
Does anyone know where I can get a titanium hammer to save weight?
In a message dated 3/16/04 10:48:17 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
F.vanderHulst(at)ucol.ac.nz writes:
>
> In fact, you could probably make them a bit smaller and lighter than the
> original... it looks like (apart from stability issues) you would only
> need *one* of the official Claw's to hold an RV down. Of course, the
> limiting factor is th strength of the soil that you nail these into! But
> maybe for RVs you could get away with 6" nails?
>
> Or maybe you could make it all out of Titanium? :-)
>
> Of course, you would have to buy your own hammer ;-)
>
> Frank
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: OSH tie-downs |
I have been at one fly-in where a guy did NOT tie down his RV. A gust of
wind came up and blew it into another RV and they traded some paint but no
dented metal. This was ONE RV'er that I would not have wanted to be. He was
just about KICKED OUT of the RV parking area for not securing his aircraft.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,442 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: OSH tie-downs
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 02:13:39 -0600
Does anyone have horror stories about RV's blowing away in the wind?
This all seems a bit excessive.
Jeff Shemp Dowling
Get rid of annoying pop-up ads with the new MSN Toolbar FREE!
http://clk.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200414ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
>
> Does anyone know where I can get a titanium hammer to save weight?
>
Not titanium, but look at:
http://www.mcmaster.com/ page 2680, plastic lightweight hammer.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 445 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator Belts |
Mike
My personal opinion is to stay away from Dayco. As an auto mechanic, I've had
numerous instances of installing Dayco's belts, only to have to replace them for
free due to "belt squeek". I no longer will use any Dayco products. (Their
radiator hoses are flimsy) Avoid Pep Boys, Discount Auto, etc. type "off" brands.
The money saved is not worth the extra work of having to remove the cowl and
prop to change out an alternator belt sooner than absolutely necessary.
Ask your local independent auto parts store, if he can get Gates or Bando (used
by most Japanese OEMs) brand of belts. Another good brand that is less expensive
is called Pro One. I'm really impressed with the quality of this company's
products. They cost less than Gates but are of good quality.
Charlie Kuss
>
>Went shopping for an alternator belt today and couldn't find a local parts shop
that carried Gates. They all sold the same brand called Dayco Top Cog. My
question has to do with belt quality. These belts have a ribbed back. When I
questioned the fact that less material may make them less durable, the response
was they were more durable since the ribs made them more flexible and they
ran cooler.
>
>What is the skinny on belt quality/durability? Is this for real or just a way
to sell cheap belts to a naive belt buyer, like me?
>
>Thanks
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "T H" <flyinggrizz(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: OT: Oshkosh bound... |
> >We've decided to make our first pilgrimage to Oshkosh this summer and
> >we're going to camp on the grounds. I've read the EAA's survival guide,
> >but I'd some specific recommendations about what to bring. What sort of
> >tent, sleeping bag, etc. Should I just go down to REI and have at it?
> > I'd hate to purchase or pack anything unnecessary.
> >
Things to take to Oshkosh:
1 Cash
2 Credit Cards (take several so you have backups as you reach your credit
limit)
3 More Cash
4 Your best walking shoes
Everything will cost more than you ever thought. Don't let it slow you down,
just be prepared.
You'll have a great time.
Grizz
http://moneycentral.msn.com/tax/home.asp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob U." <rv3(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator Belts |
Mike,
I've been running the Dayco 'Top Cog' for nearly three years now
with over 300 hours. Trouble free, so far. Visually, still looks fine.
Bob
========================================
Hopperdhh(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>Mike,
>Dayco is a good brand as far as I know. It makes sense that increasing the
>area may help get rid of the heat -- a little.
>
>Gates is sold by NAPA. That's what I used.
>
>Dan RV-7A (almost done)
>
>
>In a message dated 3/17/04 12:44:15 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
>hollandm(at)pacbell.net writes:
>
>
>
>>
>>Went shopping for an alternator belt today and couldn't find a local parts
>>shop that carried Gates. They all sold the same brand called Dayco Top Cog.
>>My question has to do with belt quality. These belts have a ribbed back.
>>When I questioned the fact that less material may make them less durable, the
>>response was they were more durable since the ribs made them more flexible and
>>they ran cooler.
>>
>>What is the skinny on belt quality/durability? Is this for real or just a
>>way to sell cheap belts to a naive belt buyer, like me?
>>
>>Thanks
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Trainnut01(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator Belts |
Mike
My 7A is only to the wing stage but I do have a lot of experience with belts.
I design and install air conditioner compressor mounts for cars and trucks
that were not equipped with air from the factory. We have used a lot of the
Dayco TopCog belts and they really do have a longer life provided they are not
used in an installation that requires an idler pulley running on the back of the
belt. The negative flex angle coupled with the idler contact will disintegrate
the belt very quickly. With this exception they do a great job.
Carroll Jernigan
RV-7A Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker(at)hotmail.com> |
List,
I'm at the point of running wires to my RC Allen grip and I'm not sure how to get
the wires inside the stick. I've searched the archives but still have not formulated
a plan of attack. Just where, and how, is the best place to enter the
stick and still offer as much protection from chaffing as possible, yet allow
flexibility? I've got both elevator and aileron trim plus PTT wiring as well.
Steve Struyk
St. Charles, MO
RV-8, wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob U." <rv3(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: OSH tie-downs |
Hopperdhh(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
>Does anyone know where I can get a titanium hammer to save weight?
>
Argh....
Maybe it should be inflatable, too? :-) :-) :-)
A hammer that weighs next to nothing.....
is worth next to nothing, methinks.
Think about it.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | OT: Oshkosh bound... |
>
> > >We've decided to make our first pilgrimage to Oshkosh this
> summer and
> > >we're going to camp on the grounds. I've read the EAA's survival
> > >guide, but I'd some specific recommendations about what to bring.
> > >What sort of tent, sleeping bag, etc. Should I just go
> down to REI
> > >and have at it? I'd hate to purchase or pack anything unnecessary.
> > >
> Things to take to Oshkosh:
>
> 1 Cash
> 2 Credit Cards (take several so you have backups as you
> reach your credit
> limit)
> 3 More Cash
> 4 Your best walking shoes
>
> Everything will cost more than you ever thought. Don't let it
> slow you down,
> just be prepared.
>
> You'll have a great time.
>
> Grizz
I'd add one more imporant thing, which is a hot button for me, and that
is that they charge a minimum of 3 nights' camping. This feels like a
gouge if one only wants to stay one night. I've decided to only go for
the day (I'm only 1.5 hours away by RV) because of it.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 445 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net> |
I drilled a hole near the pivot point to minimize motion.
Be sure and use AWG 22, and the good stuff (tefzel) for chafe
resistance.
On Mar 17, 2004, at 6:46 AM, Steve Struyk wrote:
>
> List,
>
> I'm at the point of running wires to my RC Allen grip and I'm not sure
> how to get the wires inside the stick. I've searched the archives but
> still have not formulated a plan of attack. Just where, and how, is
> the best place to enter the stick and still offer as much protection
> from chaffing as possible, yet allow flexibility? I've got both
> elevator and aileron trim plus PTT wiring as well.
>
> Steve Struyk
> St. Charles, MO
> RV-8, wiring
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)QCBC.ORG> |
| Subject: | Re: some questions from a new guy |
What do you mean IF you join EAA?
Where are you going to get the support that the EAA's Technical Counselor
program offers?
Where are you going to the expertise for Test Flying your new RV-8?
Van has a factory pilot to give you some transition training in an RV-6 but
the EAA has also has gotten a waiver so there are probably several RV-8
pilots that can give you some prior transition training before you try the
same in your new RV. This is very important when going for that first
flight.
The local EAA Chapter also probably has a tool library for that special
one-time use tooling. There will be interested EAA members that can lend a
hand when it comes to inspecting and repositioning.
In my EAA Chapter, we have several completed RV-8s and several on the way.
Each helps each other even though they are many miles apart. The Chapter has
had project reviews of these projects along the way. Second pair of
eyeballs is extremely helpful. Another builder can help you over the tough
spots and help you avoid mistakes.
The Question is WHEN are you going to join the EAA?
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or sportpilot(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "ed " <ed_88(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: some questions from a new guy
>
>
> After about a year of lurking and considering I am getting real
closing
> to ordering an rv-8a kit. Although before I take the plunge I was hoping
for
> a little advice.
>
> 1) How do I find find builders in the seattle area? If I join eaa,
will
> the web page tell me there to go to meet other builders? From reading the
> various web builde's logs out there, it looks like knowiing others is
vital
> to building a top quality kit.
>
> 2) How long should I expect to spend building a quickbuild rv-8a? I
> have built various rc models, and consider myself OK with mechanical
things.
> However I have never worked with sheet metal or riviting before.
>
> 3) Would you consider the emp kit a good way to see if I am cut out
for
> home building?
>
> 4) I've never actually flown in an rv before. I assume it makes sense
> to go to the factory and get a demo flight? Is there anything else I
should
> do while I am down there?
>
>
> Sorry for the long list of questions, but I am getting real close to
> placing an order :)
> --Eddie
>
> http://clk.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Trampas" <tstern(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | OT: Oshkosh bound... |
I would also include sunglasses and a hat...
Of course if you have cash you can purchase them...
Regards,
Trampas Stern
Stern Technologies
4321 Waterwheel Dr
Raleigh NC 27606
919-832-8441 Ext. 12 (voice)
919-832-8441 (fax)
www.sterntech.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alex Peterson
Subject: RE: RV-List: OT: Oshkosh bound...
>
> > >We've decided to make our first pilgrimage to Oshkosh this
> summer and
> > >we're going to camp on the grounds. I've read the EAA's survival
> > >guide, but I'd some specific recommendations about what to bring.
> > >What sort of tent, sleeping bag, etc. Should I just go
> down to REI
> > >and have at it? I'd hate to purchase or pack anything unnecessary.
> > >
> Things to take to Oshkosh:
>
> 1 Cash
> 2 Credit Cards (take several so you have backups as you
> reach your credit
> limit)
> 3 More Cash
> 4 Your best walking shoes
>
> Everything will cost more than you ever thought. Don't let it
> slow you down,
> just be prepared.
>
> You'll have a great time.
>
> Grizz
I'd add one more imporant thing, which is a hot button for me, and that
is that they charge a minimum of 3 nights' camping. This feels like a
gouge if one only wants to stay one night. I've decided to only go for
the day (I'm only 1.5 hours away by RV) because of it.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 445 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator Belts |
> >
> >Went shopping for an alternator belt today and couldn't find a local
parts shop that carried Gates. They all sold the same brand called Dayco
Top Cog. My question has to do with belt quality. These belts have a
ribbed back. When I questioned the fact that less material may make them
less durable, the response was they were more durable since the ribs made
them more flexible and they ran cooler.
> >
> >What is the skinny on belt quality/durability? Is this for real or just
a way to sell cheap belts to a naive belt buyer, like me?
> >
> >Thanks
> >
Mike, I've had a Dayco belt last less than 20 hours, I have since insisted
on Gates and while they are a bit more expensive and harder to find, they
are well worth the effort. Peace of Mind, etc. Have you tried searching on
the internet for your particular Gate belt size?
Ed
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John D. Heath" <altoq(at)direcway.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator Belts |
Mike,
When I was much younger, playing around with Small Block Cheys and such, I
found a good running high winder would roll the belts over in the pullies.
When this belt came along, the news spread quickly that it did not roll
over.
Now when I look for belts, Dayco Top Cog (Outside Mass is what we called
them) is the only thing I use. As V-belts go IMHO they are the best
John D
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Holland" <hollandm(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: RV-List: Alternator Belts
>
> Went shopping for an alternator belt today and couldn't find a local parts
shop that carried Gates. They all sold the same brand called Dayco Top Cog.
My question has to do with belt quality. These belts have a ribbed back.
When I questioned the fact that less material may make them less durable,
the response was they were more durable since the ribs made them more
flexible and they ran cooler.
>
> What is the skinny on belt quality/durability? Is this for real or just a
way to sell cheap belts to a naive belt buyer, like me?
>
> Thanks
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
| Subject: | Re: some questions from a new guy |
>
> 1) How do I find find builders in the seattle area?
Ed:
Try the RV Finder,
http://www.rvproject.com/registry/rvfinder.jsp
If you do a search for 25 miles around Seattle, WA, you'll get a list of 5
registered RV-8s and 63 other types of RVs, complete with owner's names and
addresses.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)excelgeo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: OSH tie-downs |
Lets see
3 lb. titanium hammer = 3 lb.
3 lb. steel hammer = 3 lb.
What weighs more, a pound of feathers or a pound of lead?
GZ
Bob U. wrote:
>
>
>Hopperdhh(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
>
>>
>>
>>Does anyone know where I can get a titanium hammer to save weight?
>>
>>
>>
>
>Argh....
>Maybe it should be inflatable, too? :-) :-) :-)
>
>A hammer that weighs next to nothing.....
>is worth next to nothing, methinks.
>
>Think about it.
>
>
>Bob
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: some questions from a new guy |
I worked on my slow build has many hours as possible, which worked out to ~30
hrs a week, and thats with a full time job, and I am married. I had one good
helper for everything except paint. Neither of us have ever built a plane
before but we are both good mechanically and he is better than me electrically
and I better than him in the paint dept. 2 years to the month it flew painted
and I did the painting which added months. It flew with out the gear leg
fairings completed. My motivation for getting it done so fast was to go fly a
rental plane. Here are my tips for getting it done quickly:
1- Get buy in from the wife on the amount of time it is going to take.
2- Get the wife to help if at all interested.
3- Have a helper either for the entire project or for specific parts,
mechanical, electrical, paint etc.
4- A helper is a MUST for getting it done in a reasonable amount of time.
5- Knowing someone who has a arm with 2 elbows is also helpful.
>
>Eddie,
>
>You came to the right place for answers. I bet you get offered about 10
>rides in RV-8s.
>
>I expected to finish my RV-7A (slow build) in about 2 years. Its going to be
>almost 3. And I'm retired. The quick build, in my opinion, won't save you
>as much time as you may think. The sheet metal work goes pretty fast with the
>prepunched kits. The instrument panel, canopy, wiring, and firewall forward
>is what really slowed me down. Van's says, I think, about 1600 hours to build
>an 8. I have gone over 2200 on my 7A, but I'm slow.
>
>Everyone starts with the empennage. Yes, that will at least give you a
>pretty good idea of what you're up against. Tenacity is the real virtue
>that will
>get you to the end.
>
>I'm sure you'll get lots of opinions, this is just mine of course!
>
>Go for it,
>Dan
>RV-7A (almost done!)
>
>
>In a message dated 3/17/04 2:53:22 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
>ed_88(at)hotmail.com writes:
>
>>
>>
>>
>> After about a year of lurking and considering I am getting real closing
>> to ordering an rv-8a kit. Although before I take the plunge I was hoping for
>>
>> a little advice.
>>
>> 1) How do I find find builders in the seattle area? If I join eaa, will
>> the web page tell me there to go to meet other builders? From reading the
>> various web builde's logs out there, it looks like knowiing others is vital
>> to building a top quality kit.
>>
>> 2) How long should I expect to spend building a quickbuild rv-8a? I
>> have built various rc models, and consider myself OK with mechanical things.
>>
>> However I have never worked with sheet metal or riviting before.
>>
>> 3) Would you consider the emp kit a good way to see if I am cut out for
>> home building?
>>
>> 4) I've never actually flown in an rv before. I assume it makes sense
>> to go to the factory and get a demo flight? Is there anything else I should
>> do while I am down there?
>>
>>
>> Sorry for the long list of questions, but I am getting real close to
>> placing an order :)
>> --Eddie
>>
>>
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Trainnut01(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: OSH tie-downs |
The question is which weighs more a pound of feathers or a pound of gold?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV8 horizontal stabilizer mounting problem |
Bummer on the problem. Had a few myself.
My recommendation:
option 1: Check with Van's. Get a recommended fix from them on your
specific situation.
option 2: Fix it as per the plans (replace metal).
IMVHO, this is far too critical to do anything different. I personally
wouldn't want to have the worry from that attachment detract from the
enjoyment of flying.
BTW - looks like you may need a little more shim under the angle in your
pic.
Good luck.
Bryan Jones -8
www.LoneStarSquadron.com
Houston, Texas
>Ouch. I goofed while drilling the holes for the forward
>spar on the HS. I'm not sure what to do, and I would
>appreciate any advice you can offer. I've got pictures
>and details on my site, and I would be happy to hear
>any advice or tips or tricks.
>
> http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story 04031620072395
>
>Thanks,
>Mickey
>
>
Find a broadband plan that fits. Great local deals on high-speed Internet
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net> |
| Subject: | some questions from a new guy |
Ed,
Go fly the RV-8A at Van's and take your check book. Just finished mine
RV-8A 888FP and WOW best aircraft I have ever flown.
Sincerely,
Noel Simmons
Blue Sky Aviation, Inc.
Phone & Fax: 406-538-6574
noel(at)blueskyaviation.net
www.blueskyaviation.net <http://www.blueskyaviation.net>
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of ed
Subject: RV-List: some questions from a new guy
After about a year of lurking and considering I am getting real closing
to ordering an rv-8a kit. Although before I take the plunge I was hoping for
a little advice.
1) How do I find find builders in the seattle area? If I join eaa, will
the web page tell me there to go to meet other builders? From reading the
various web builde's logs out there, it looks like knowiing others is vital
to building a top quality kit.
2) How long should I expect to spend building a quickbuild rv-8a? I
have built various rc models, and consider myself OK with mechanical things.
However I have never worked with sheet metal or riviting before.
3) Would you consider the emp kit a good way to see if I am cut out for
home building?
4) I've never actually flown in an rv before. I assume it makes sense
to go to the factory and get a demo flight? Is there anything else I should
do while I am down there?
Sorry for the long list of questions, but I am getting real close to
placing an order :)
--Eddie
http://clk.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
| Subject: | Alternator Belts |
The belts that NAPA carry are made by Gates ... at least the ones I looked
at (and bought).
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ed Anderson
> Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2004 9:08 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Alternator Belts
>
>
> > >
> > >Went shopping for an alternator belt today and couldn't find a local
> parts shop that carried Gates. They all sold the same brand called Dayco
> Top Cog. My question has to do with belt quality. These belts have a
> ribbed back. When I questioned the fact that less material may make them
> less durable, the response was they were more durable since the ribs made
> them more flexible and they ran cooler.
> > >
> > >What is the skinny on belt quality/durability? Is this for
> real or just
> a way to sell cheap belts to a naive belt buyer, like me?
> > >
> > >Thanks
> > >
>
>
> Mike, I've had a Dayco belt last less than 20 hours, I have since insisted
> on Gates and while they are a bit more expensive and harder to find, they
> are well worth the effort. Peace of Mind, etc. Have you tried
> searching on
> the internet for your particular Gate belt size?
>
> Ed
>
> Ed Anderson
> RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> Matthews, NC
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: some questions from a new guy |
There are a bunch of guys in the Seattle area building RV's....if they dont
introduce themselves you can probably get a list from Vans. Also go the the
fly-ins close by this summer...Arlington,Scappoose and the homecoming come
to mind
Building time ALWAYS varies by the individual....some guys can do a quick
build in a year ...but not too many
Empennage is a perfect way to get a taste of building. Not too expensive,
but a good sampling of the skills you will need to build.
When in Portland go to a restarant called the Veritable Quandry....order the
osso bucco (veal) :) mmmmmmmmm
Evan
----- Original Message -----
From: "ed " <ed_88(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: some questions from a new guy
>
>
> After about a year of lurking and considering I am getting real
closing
> to ordering an rv-8a kit. Although before I take the plunge I was hoping
for
> a little advice.
>
> 1) How do I find find builders in the seattle area? If I join eaa,
will
> the web page tell me there to go to meet other builders? From reading the
> various web builde's logs out there, it looks like knowiing others is
vital
> to building a top quality kit.
>
> 2) How long should I expect to spend building a quickbuild rv-8a? I
> have built various rc models, and consider myself OK with mechanical
things.
> However I have never worked with sheet metal or riviting before.
>
> 3) Would you consider the emp kit a good way to see if I am cut out
for
> home building?
>
> 4) I've never actually flown in an rv before. I assume it makes sense
> to go to the factory and get a demo flight? Is there anything else I
should
> do while I am down there?
>
>
> Sorry for the long list of questions, but I am getting real close to
> placing an order :)
> --Eddie
>
> http://clk.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | RV8 horizontal stabilizer mounting problem |
Nice pictures. Maintaining good edge distances on through-bolted angles is
always difficult. I would recommend replacing the angle. Remove the HS
from the tail, drill out the rivets on the HS spar and reinstall a new piece
of angle. When you make the new angle, taper it to fit closely between the
longerons and radius the ends so it fits with as much material (edge
distance) as possible. It will take only a few hours and give years of
satisfaction.
Good luck,
Dean
RV-4
186 hours
>From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: RV8 horizontal stabilizer mounting problem
>Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 20:39:06 +0100
>
>
>Ouch. I goofed while drilling the holes for the forward
>spar on the HS. I'm not sure what to do, and I would
>appreciate any advice you can offer. I've got pictures
>and details on my site, and I would be happy to hear
>any advice or tips or tricks.
>
> http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story 04031620072395
>
>Thanks,
>Mickey
>
>
>--
>Mickey Coggins
>http://www.rv8.ch/
>#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>
>
March 07, 2004 - March 17, 2004
RV-Archive.digest.vol-pa