RV-Archive.digest.vol-pb
March 17, 2004 - March 27, 2004
http://clk.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
vansairforce
Anyone have an extra compass correction card laying around that they don't
need?
-Bill VonDane
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV8 horizontal stabilizer mounting problem |
"option 1: Check with Van's. Get a recommended fix from them on your
specific situation."
Could not agree more. These message boards are great but run everything by
the experts once you think you have the answer.
>
>Bummer on the problem. Had a few myself.
>
>My recommendation:
>
>option 1: Check with Van's. Get a recommended fix from them on your
>specific situation.
>
>option 2: Fix it as per the plans (replace metal).
>
>IMVHO, this is far too critical to do anything different. I personally
>wouldn't want to have the worry from that attachment detract from the
>enjoyment of flying.
>
>BTW - looks like you may need a little more shim under the angle in your
>pic.
>
>Good luck.
>
>Bryan Jones -8
>www.LoneStarSquadron.com
>Houston, Texas
>
>
>>Ouch. I goofed while drilling the holes for the forward
>>spar on the HS. I'm not sure what to do, and I would
>>appreciate any advice you can offer. I've got pictures
>>and details on my site, and I would be happy to hear
>>any advice or tips or tricks.
>>
>> http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story 04031620072395
>>
>>Thanks,
>>Mickey
>>
>>
>
>Find a broadband plan that fits. Great local deals on high-speed Internet
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | stick/rudder lock |
So what is everyone using for a control stick and rudder lock?
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neil McLeod" <bedrock(at)theriver.com> |
| Subject: | Engine monitoring |
Do you have a web site?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Trampas
Subject: RV-List: Engine monitoring
I just wanted to let you know that Stern Tech's engine monitor is now
shipping!
It is a graphical engine monitor which can be configured for any engine
up
to 8 cylinders. The user can change the display layout and even sensors
calibration. Now you can have an engine monitor the way you want it.
If you have any questions please feel free to call me or email me.
Regards,
Trampas Stern
1-877-820-6590
=
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=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Knicholas2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: some questions from a new guy |
Eddie,
I didn't notice exactly where you live - but if you are in the greater
Seattle area visit the EAA 326 Chapter in Puyallup (Thun Field). (We have a great
web page at: www.EAA326.org) At last count we have over 40 RV's in the
chapter that are under construction or flying. Want an dose of RV??? this is
the
place!
Kim Nicholas
RV9A - almost done!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: OT: Oshkosh bound... |
Alex, you don't even have to camp do you? With you being 1.5 hours away,
could you not fly in, in the early morning, park the plane somewhere for a
few hours without camping, and take off about 6 in the evening if the
weather is fair? I don't know the answer, and I had not even thought it
about before you posted your message. Is that possible and save the 3 days
camping charge?
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp
TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
JeffRose Flightline Interiors
Firewall Forward, Wiring
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: OT: Oshkosh bound...
>
> >
> > > >We've decided to make our first pilgrimage to Oshkosh this
> > summer and
> > > >we're going to camp on the grounds. I've read the EAA's survival
> > > >guide, but I'd some specific recommendations about what to bring.
> > > >What sort of tent, sleeping bag, etc. Should I just go
> > down to REI
> > > >and have at it? I'd hate to purchase or pack anything unnecessary.
> > > >
> > Things to take to Oshkosh:
> >
> > 1 Cash
> > 2 Credit Cards (take several so you have backups as you
> > reach your credit
> > limit)
> > 3 More Cash
> > 4 Your best walking shoes
> >
> > Everything will cost more than you ever thought. Don't let it
> > slow you down,
> > just be prepared.
> >
> > You'll have a great time.
> >
> > Grizz
>
> I'd add one more imporant thing, which is a hot button for me, and that
> is that they charge a minimum of 3 nights' camping. This feels like a
> gouge if one only wants to stay one night. I've decided to only go for
> the day (I'm only 1.5 hours away by RV) because of it.
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> RV6-A N66AP 445 hours
>
> http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | RV8 horizontal stabilizer mounting problem |
Thanks everyone for all the good advice. Van's said
just put a bolt on and go fly, but they also said that
if you're going to worry about it, then it's best to
"fix" it. I think I will worry about it, but my
memory is getting shorter the older I get. :-)
Replacing the angle sounds like a good idea, and I
may end up doing that, but I'm not sure I can really
add enough to the length to make a difference. Not
much more space there.
One idea I got from Scott was to add an angle to the
back of the front spar on the HS, and drill that into
the longeron. I looked at that today, and it seems like
the best idea I've heard, and looks fast, easy, and will
add strength that was not there.
Here in Switzerland we have to run these kinds of design
changes by our build advisor, which I will do. I'm sure
he'll be ok with it.
Thanks again, guys!
Mickey
>option 1: Check with Van's. Get a recommended fix from them on your
>specific situation.
>
>option 2: Fix it as per the plans (replace metal).
>
>IMVHO, this is far too critical to do anything different. I personally
>wouldn't want to have the worry from that attachment detract from the
>enjoyment of flying.
>
>BTW - looks like you may need a little more shim under the angle in your
>pic.
>
>Good luck.
>
>Bryan Jones -8
>www.LoneStarSquadron.com
>Houston, Texas
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
| Subject: | Re: stick/rudder lock |
I have tried several different methods and now finally have one that I like.
I use a 1/8" welding rod that is bent appropriately and attached to the
bottom of the instrument panel with one eye of hinge at each end. It simply
flips back out of sight when not in use.
The rudder is pinned with a piece of the same rod bent into a "U" and
inserted into a hole in each of the rudder control stops with a red flag
attached.
I can probably post a picture if you would like.
John Furey
2nd RV6A O-320 170hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Trainnut01(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: some questions from a new guy |
Eddie
Stick with the A. You can find a lot of pictures of RVs on their back and
more often than not there are two wheels sticking up, not three.
Carroll Jernigan
RV-7A Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: some questions from a new guy |
Ed,
writes:
>
>
> After about a year of lurking and considering I am getting real
> closing
> to ordering an rv-8a kit. Although before I take the plunge I was
> hoping for
> a little advice.
>
> 1) How do I find find builders in the seattle area? If I join
> eaa, will the web page tell me there to go to meet other builders?
From reading the various web builde's logs out there, it looks like
knowiing others is vital to building a top quality kit.
Try <http://www.rvfinder.com/rvfinder.jsp>
2) How long should I expect to spend building a quickbuild
rv-8a? I have built various rc models, and consider myself OK with
mechanical things. However I have never worked with sheet metal
or riviting before.
I don't know.
3) Would you consider the emp kit a good way to see if I am cut
out for home building?
It's the only way IMHO.
4) I've never actually flown in an rv before. I assume it makes
sense to go to the factory and get a demo flight? Is there anything
else I should do while I am down there?
Check out the other aircraft. Be sure your picking the right plane
for the right mission.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Japundza <bjapundza(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | iridite distributor |
Hi All,
None of the local chemical supply houses knew of or heard of Iridite 14-2 (Alodine).
Can anyone point me to a mail-order supplier?
Regards,
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Compass Adjusting |
Is there any way to get more adjustment to the compass when dialing it in
at the compass rose? Everything is great except North is 10 degree's off at
best. ............................................................
Hmmmmmmm, why cant I cheat and rotate the compass slightly. I have the
pedistal type and could pivot it around its verticle axis .....I bet this
would work. It would move everything else off but there is plenty of
adjustment in the other directions.
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ed " <ed_88(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: some questions from a new guy |
From: "ed \240" <ed_88@hotmai...
Wow, thanks for all the quick responses to my questions. People are
replying to me way faster thanks I can keep up with, so here is the quick
summary of what people have been telling me.
1) EAA 326 is the local chapter for me. I'm going to join the EAA and attend
their next meeting, so those of you in the area can here my endless
questions in person :)
2) http://www.rvfinder.com/rvfinder.jsp will tell me how the builders are
near me. But I figure I'll go to the EAA meeting rather than cold call
people.
3) The project will take a long long time, but it is best not to dwell on
that.
4) Working on the plane may lead to divorce - Since I am not married, I
think I am safe from this one.
5) yes - the emp kit is first for a reason, thats where new builders can see
if they have what it takes.
thanks again for the quick responses from everyone.
--Eddie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Well,
this will stir the pot a little, but..
My first qualifier is that I have Randy's Ti-tiedowns and love them. They
are good for most situations particularly where there is a wind that is
shearing across the ground in one direction and the plane can be tied down
in a non lifting orientation (backwards to the wind). This is common out
here in the west where the wind comes from alaska or japan most times.
But, in tornado country where the plane can be lifted directly up with a lot
of force the doggy ties will pull out. How do I know this?
I used to own a tractor and had the job of pulling out left over tie downs
at our flyins. The doggy ties if cheap will straighten out, if strong they
will still come upwards fairly easily as they loosen the surrounding soil as
they are screwed in. My experience in So Cal soil was the doggy ties come
out easier than any other type.
A straight stake driven 2 to 3 ft into the ground will compact the soil
around it and solidify itself to the surrounding substrate. Ribbed re-bar is
particularly good for this. This is why many major structures are stabilized
locally with large pilings driven straight into the ground rather than bored
in.
This type of tie down was the only thing that would gag my tractor and lift
its nose off the ground while pulling it out.
I use three 30" peices of 3/4 flange x 1/8thk 6061 aluminum angle with a
sharp point, and a series of 1/4" holes every 1.5" on the top half. This
allows one to make an extraction lever that fits into the holes and can be
levered against a piece of wood on the ground.
Another school of thought also has one leave the tail wheel loose enough so
that it lifts to a position that stops the main wing from lifting. I'm not
convinced that this is good for RVs, but, I throw it out there for group
digestion.
If one was really clever they would integrate the mass of their canopy
breaker into a stake driver/lever pullerouter fire extinguisher flashlight
drooling/touchey looky loo beater tool.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
| Subject: | Re: some questions from a new guy |
> Stick with the A. You can find a lot of pictures of RVs on their back and
> more often than not there are two wheels sticking up, not three.
And what percentage of the fleet total hours is in taildraggers?
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | OT: Oshkosh bound... |
Larry, that is what I plan to do (as I wrote originally below). It is
just that the camping was a fun part of the O experience, I just didn't
want to do it 3 nights.
Alex
> -->
>
> Alex, you don't even have to camp do you? With you being 1.5
> hours away, could you not fly in, in the early morning, park
> the plane somewhere for a few hours without camping, and take
> off about 6 in the evening if the weather is fair? I don't
> know the answer, and I had not even thought it about before
> you posted your message. Is that possible and save the 3
> days camping charge?
>
> Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp
> TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
> JeffRose Flightline Interiors
> Firewall Forward, Wiring
> > I'd add one more important thing, which is a hot button for me, and
> > that is that they charge a minimum of 3 nights' camping.
> This feels
> > like a gouge if one only wants to stay one night. I've decided to
> > only go for the day (I'm only 1.5 hours away by RV) because of it.
> >
> > Alex Peterson
> > Maple Grove, MN
> > RV6-A N66AP 445 hours
> >
> > http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
> >
> >
>
>
> ===========
> Matronics Forums.
> ===========
> ===========
> ===========
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Trainnut01(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: some questions from a new guy |
Konrad
You're right of course. I quess that one in back is so small I just didn't
notice it. I really did not intend to start an argument. I realize its a matter
of opinion, that's why Van builds them both ways.
Carroll
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: OSH - what to take |
Wheelers list is great but don't forget your water bottles - input and
output. Drink lotsa water during the day and no pop. (Don't ever drink pop!)
Beer, wine, whiskey are all hard to get at OSH.
Shower at any time except morning and evening as the water then is often
real cold. Don't drop your soap!
Map and event calendars - my buddy prints them out & we plan the day around
them. To reduce hiking time plan to see things in order.
You'll need at least one day to look at and study the RV's and to talk to
builders and, if you have your plane there, to talk to lookers.
If you don't want to camp, better make reservations now!
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: stick/rudder lock |
I've seen a u-shaped piece of rod designed to drop into the rudder control horn
and control stop (on one side, with appropriate hole drilled in each) thus securing
the rudder in a fully deflected position , and I've personally always secured
the stick full-aft by using the lap belt as a control lock.. Works 100%
-Bill B
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | For Sale - RV-6 Almost done with a panel to die for |
Hi
Most interested in buying RV6-for sale? Info? Price? Will you attend Sun
and Fun?
Goran Wintzell
-----Ursprungligt meddelande-----
Frn: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] Fr Tim Bryan
Skickat: den 20 december 2003 06:31
Till: rv-list(at)matronics.com
mne: RV-List: For Sale - RV-6 Almost done with a panel to die for
Listers,
My RV-6 is for sale. It is almost done.
Sheet metal work is pretty much done, Canopy is pretty much done except
for
fiberglass.
Cowling is cut and fitted but hinges not on permanent, Engine is
installed,
baffles are fitted and installed but no chaffe rubber yet, panel
installed
complete, wiring done, wings test fitted.
0-360A1A Lycoming from Aerosport, New Constant Speed prop from Vans
I have everything to finish this airplane except the paint.
Serious buyers contact me off list for further details.
Tim Bryan
tim(at)bryantechnology.com
Redmond, Oregon
=
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=
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Cours <rv-j(at)moriarti.org> |
| Subject: | what does alodining do? |
Hi, everyone -
The primer I'm currently using specifically recommends against metal
treatments, so I'm not alodining, but I may switch primers in the
future. Talking about alodining got me curious. What, chemically, does
alodining do to the aluminum, and what is its purpose -- is it an
adhesion enhancer or an extra corrosion barrier?
thanks,
Jeff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: iridite distributor |
>
>Hi All,
>
>None of the local chemical supply houses knew of or heard of Iridite 14-2
>(Alodine). Can anyone point me to a mail-order supplier?
West Marine
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10001&langId=-1&catalogId=10001&productId=136&catalogId=10001&classNum=10892&subdeptNum=11204&storeNum=4
>Regards,
>Bob
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Trampas" <tstern(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Engine monitoring |
www.sterntech.com
Regards,
Trampas Stern
Stern Technologies
4321 Waterwheel Dr
Raleigh NC 27606
919-832-8441 Ext. 12 (voice)
919-832-8441 (fax)
www.sterntech.com
tstern(at)sterntech.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Neil McLeod
Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine monitoring
Do you have a web site?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Trampas
Subject: RV-List: Engine monitoring
I just wanted to let you know that Stern Tech's engine monitor is now
shipping!
It is a graphical engine monitor which can be configured for any engine
up
to 8 cylinders. The user can change the display layout and even sensors
calibration. Now you can have an engine monitor the way you want it.
If you have any questions please feel free to call me or email me.
Regards,
Trampas Stern
1-877-820-6590
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Coldenhoff <rv9a_000(at)deru.com> |
| Subject: | Re: iridite distributor |
Bob Japundza wrote:
> None of the local chemical supply houses knew of or heard of Iridite 14-2 (Alodine).
> Can anyone point me to a mail-order supplier?
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/nsearch.php?s=alodine
Does "chemical supply houses" include the local
automotive paint store and/or body shops?
--
Tim Coldenhoff
www.deru.com/~rv9a
90338 - electrical/finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andy Karmy <andy(at)karmy.com> |
| Subject: | How to use Ti-Downs |
Ok, with all the discussions about which tiedowns to get and use in
various locations... Are there any tips from those of you that are
using Randy's Titanium Ti-Downs as to how to use them?
I have had a set for 2 years now and am still having problems getting
them in far enough. At Arlington this last summer I was only able to
get them in about half way using the supplied cheater bar. What are the
rest of you doing? I saw Wheeler's all the way screwed in right next to
me, but mine didn't seem to want to go in.
- Andy Karmy
RV9A Seattle WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: How to use Ti-Downs |
Sounds like its time to hit the gym?
My ground support crew has never had any problems getting them in all the way
with the supplied bar. (Brian age 10 or Jeffrey age 13)
Now that we are building a RV-10 everyone will gets to go!! The only fight
now will be who gets to seat in front.
www.hometown.aol.com/robhickman/rv10.html
Rob Hickman
www.advanced-flight-systems.com
RV-4 N401RH
RV-10 S/N: 40204
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Compass Card... |
Here's one I scanned. It's a jpeg, but if you open it with almost any
photo program, you can print the corrected headings on it and print it!!!
Linn
Bill VonDane wrote:
>
>Anyone have an extra compass correction card laying around that they don't
>need?
>
>-Bill VonDane
>EAA Tech Counselor
>RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
>www.vondane.com
>www.creativair.com
>www.epanelbuilder.com
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Schilling Karl <Karl.Schilling(at)ssfhs.org> |
Some one was looking for a place to get a RV painted in Indiana. There is a
first class shop located in Columbus Indiana.
The owner is Mike Williams. You can see his Oshkosh award winning work and
contact him at www.mike(at)mikeshangar.com
__________________________________
The information contained in this email and any accompanying documents is
intended for the sole use of the recipient to whom it is addressed, and may
contain information that is privileged, confidential, and prohibited from
disclosure under applicable law. If you are not the intended recipient, or
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notified that any review, use, disclosure, copying, or distribution is
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sender by e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message. Thank you.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R. Craig Chipley" <mechtech81(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: OSH tie-downs/how to use |
I also have a set of Ti-downs for my aircraft. At a 45
degree angle I think they could hold quite well in
strong winds. We had VERY strong gusts at OSH last
year and they all held all show with no re
positioning. Thanks, Randy !!
--- Randy Simpson wrote:
>
>
> England
>
> >
> >Scott Bilinski wrote:
> >
> <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
> >>
> >>So what are the best tie-downs for OSH?
> >>
> >>
> >>Scott Bilinski
> >>Eng dept 305
> >>Phone (858) 657-2536
> >>Pager (858) 502-5190
> >>
> >
> >Here's the triple spike system someone mentioned:
> >
> >http://www.theclaw.com/products/claw.php
> >
> >Just some Mississippi good ol' boys tryin' to make
> a livin'.
> >
> >Give 'em a call; we need the money down here. :-)
> >
> >Charlie
> >(no financial ties to them)
> ---------------
> Listers, here's a little story.
>
> Since I make a living making titanium Ti-downs for
> airplanes, I'm always
> interested in other types of aircraft Tie-downs.
> I first heard about "the claw" this past year while
> at the Arlington, WA
> fly-in.
> While wandering around, looking at all the cool
> planes, I met Bruce
> Bohannan and "The Flying Tiger".
> I'm sure most of you have heard about this
> record-breaking pilot and his
> HIGHLY modified RV-4.
>
http://www.pilotjournal.com/content/2003/septoct/images/tiger/plane.jpg
>
> The Tiger was tied down with the wimpy, weak doggie
> tie-downs.
>
> Being the kidder I am, I began to tease Bruce about
> him holding his awesome
> plane down with such crummy tie-downs.
> Bruce explained to me that he has a really good
> tie-down kit called "the
> claw", but didn't have them with him because he
> didn't have space in his
> plane to carry them, and they were HEAVY (8 lbs).
>
> Of course, I had to show him my titanium Ti-downs.
> He checked to see if the
> Ti-down kit would fit in his little glovebox sized
> cargo compartment, and
> yep, they fit easily in there.
> I offered to give him a kit, but he declined because
> he didn't know if the
> owner of the Flying Tiger had an exclusive deal with
> the maker of "the
> claw", as they had given him the kit.
>
> We chatted for a while, and discovered that we both
> were planning to be at
> OshKosh in a coulple of weeks, and he'd talk to the
> Tiger's owner to see if
> he could use my Ti-downs.
>
> At OshKosh, I wandered around and finally found the
> Exxon display, Flying
> Tiger, Bruce, and the Tiger's owner (sorry, I can't
> remember his name at
> the moment).
>
> Yep, it'd be no problem if Bruce used my Ti-downs,
> so I gave him a kit, and
> they gave me 3 Flying Tiger T-shirts.
>
> A little later the same day, while wandering around
> the vendor displays, I
> came across the guy (Bill Alexander) selling "the
> claw"...
>
> At first, I just looked at them, with enough
> interest for him to hold up a
> kit for me to see closer, and he informed me that
> they "only weigh 8 lbs,
> complete". I was kinda biting my lip, trying to
> decide if I should tell him
> who I was. I was wearing a "Flying Tiger" T-shirt
> that Bruce had given me,
> and Bill pointed at the picture on my shirt and said
> "that plane uses "the
> claw"...
>
> I shoulda just kept my mouth shut, but I blurted out
> "not anymore", before
> I could stop myself. I kicked myself later for
> saying that.
>
> Bill wanted to know what I meant by "not anymore",
> so I told him Bruce was
> using my titanium Ti-downs now.
>
> I let Bill know that Bruce spoke highly of his
> "claw", but he just didn't
> have room to carry them. Bill told me that he had
> alot of people tell him
> as they walked by that they already had some great
> titanium Ti-downs they'd
> bought at OshKosh the year before.
>
> We chatted pleasantly for another 10-15 minutes
> before I wished him well
> with his business and moved on. I did see quite a
> few of his "claw" kits
> holding down planes there, so I know he did sell
> some.
>
> There are some other Tie-down kits available...
>
> Fly-ties is one...(6 lb. kit)
> http://www.flyties.com/airplanes.htm
>
> Screw its, is another...and pretty cheap...(weight
> unknown)
> http://www.mcp.com.au/screwits/
>
> I personally think my titanium Ti-downs are the
> World's Best aircraft
> Tie-downs, but like I said in an earlier message,
> I'm biased.
>
> Keep on flying, and make sure you anchor your plane
> good, no matter what
> system you use.
>
> Sincerely,
> Randy Simpson
> Airtime Mfg.
> http://www.airtimemfg.com
>
> p.s. When I met Bruce Bohannan at Arlington, he
> happend to be chatting with
> my all-time hero...Bob "Hurricane" Hannah, multi
> time National motocross
> champion and past unlimited Reno air racer...
>
> I got to hang out with Bob, and while eating lunch,
> he told me a great
> story of his experience of almost losing his Piper
> Supercub in a sneak
> windstorm (due to it not being tied down) while
> hunting rockchucks on a
> mesa out in the boonies...he went totally nuts over
> my Ti-downs, and now
> has a kit in his plane at all times...
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
>
=== message truncated ==
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "GMC" <gmcnutt(at)uniserve.com> |
| Subject: | Compass Adjusting |
Hi Scott
If north is off 10 degrees the other compass headings should not be "great".
Yes you can rotate the compass slightly to align the lubber line with the
fore aft aircraft axis or to adjust it slightly.
I would suggest that you start again, zero both adjuster magnets and then
check that the lubber line (compass) is lined up with the aircraft fore aft
axis. Then swing the compass following the proper procedure.
Next check and record the compass errors at each 30 degree heading (N 030
060) etc.
You should have errors that are both positive and negative as you turn the
aircraft through 360 degrees and these errors should average out. If the
errors are plotted on paper they will look like a sine wave, and with a good
compass this wave will be quite flat (2-3 deg) both above below the zero
line, a poor compass will have higher/lower peaks (5-6 + deg)errors. If the
lubber line (compass) is not aligned with the aircraft longitudinal axis
then the sine wave will be biased above or below the zero line.
What you want to do is find if there is a difference between the positive
and negative errors and adjust the compass (lubber line) by that same number
of degrees, you might still have a poor compass but the errors will then be
averaged out through the full 360 degrees.
Some compasses seem to perform better than other identical compasses and I
have had to replace one in a Cessna to get proper compass performance, on my
RV-6A the Sirs windshield mounted compass swings to within 2-3 degrees.
George in Langley
-
<bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Is there any way to get more adjustment to the compass when dialing it in
at the compass rose? Everything is great except North is 10 degree's off at
best. ............................................................
Hmmmmmmm, why cant I cheat and rotate the compass slightly. I have the
pedistal type and could pivot it around its verticle axis .....I bet this
would work. It would move everything else off but there is plenty of
adjustment in the other directions.
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Geoff Evans <hellothaimassage(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Defective Flap Actuator |
Heads up..
As I was rigging the flaps on my QB -8 today, I discovered that my flap
actuator (made in September 2002 according to the stamp on it) is defective.
Specifically, when it runs all the way out to the fully-extended position,
the black sliding part (with the rod-end bearing) completely unscrews and
disconnects itself from the worm drive inside the silver case. Obviously,
this would not be a good thing to have happen in flight...
By the way, there is no way to re-thread the black sliding piece to the worm
drive because of the clutch mechanism in the actuator. You can't keep the
worm drive from rotating while trying to reengage the threads on the end of
the black sliding piece.
A call to Vans and subsequently to Usher Enterprises -- the manufacturer of
the actuator -- revealed the following information:
When manufactured, the black sliding piece is threaded tightly into the worm
drive and secured with loctite. No pin or other method of anti-rotation --
only loctite.
The loctite is supposed to be strong enough that, when the actuator
reachesthe fully-extended limit of travel,the clutch in the actuator
releases before the loctite does. Thus, the actuator doesn't fall apart.
My actuator either never had loctite, had loctite that didn't work, or was
defective in some other way. Usher Enterprises is going to replace the
actuator for me (once I ship them the defective one -- at my expense).
This experience brings up another interesting point... There are many
messages in the archives about safety-wiring the rod-end bearing to the end
of the actuator arm because loctite supposedly isn't good enough to prevent
the bearing from unscrewing. However, safety-wiring the rod-end bearing won't
do a darn bit of good if the loctite inside the actuator doesn't do its job
and the sliding part pulls out of the case. It seems to be an equally-likely
point of failure -- especially if the clutch inside the actuator malfunctions
and the rotational forces inside the actuator are the same as those on the
rod-end bearing.
Although I'm not real pleased with an actuator design that holds itself
together with 10 or so threads and some loctite, both Vans and Usher told me
that they'd never encountered this problem before.
Any thoughts?
-Geoff
RV-8 QB
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob W M Shipley" <rob(at)robsglass.com> |
| Subject: | Difficult to drill rivets cleanly. |
"Gerry Filby | Date: | Mar 17, 2004 |
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: what does alodining do? |
Jeff
have a look at http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/corrosion/alodine.htm
gert
Jeff Cours wrote:
>
> Hi, everyone -
>
> The primer I'm currently using specifically recommends against metal
> treatments, so I'm not alodining, but I may switch primers in the
> future. Talking about alodining got me curious. What, chemically, does
> alodining do to the aluminum, and what is its purpose -- is it an
> adhesion enhancer or an extra corrosion barrier?
>
> thanks,
> Jeff
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: iridite distributor |
Bob,
Forget the chemical supply houses. Find a local supplier of plating chemicals
and materials. (ie chrome, nickel and anodizing)
Charlie Kuss
>
>Hi All,
>
>None of the local chemical supply houses knew of or heard of Iridite 14-2 (Alodine).
Can anyone point me to a mail-order supplier?
>
>Regards,
>Bob
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: what does Alodining do? |
Jeff,
Alodining and Iriditing (generic term is chromic acid conversion coating) do both.
They convert the surface layer of the aluminum to an oxide which resists
further oxidation. This coating also improves adhesion of the primer applied afterward.
Everything you ever wanted to know about corrosion control is in the
tech section of EAA chapter 1000's web site. See
http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/corrosion/corridx.htm
Charlie Kuss
>
>Hi, everyone -
>
>The primer I'm currently using specifically recommends against metal
>treatments, so I'm not alodining, but I may switch primers in the
>future. Talking about alodining got me curious. What, chemically, does
>alodining do to the aluminum, and what is its purpose -- is it an
>adhesion enhancer or an extra corrosion barrier?
>
>thanks,
>Jeff
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Iridite distributor |
Bob,
Forget about purchasing Alodine or Iridite in liquid form. It costs to much and
incurs hazardous material shipping charges to ship (big $$) Go to MacDirmid's
web site and Henkel Surface Technologies (formerly Henkel Corp) web site. Do
a search for the nearest distributor near you. In Miami, I can buy 10 pounds
of Iridite 14-2 powder (enough for 100 - 130 gallons of liquid) for $170. You
will pay $25 per gallon for the liquid.
Duh! Do the math. You can buy a 10 pound can of powdered Alodine or Iridite
and split it with 2 friends. You will all have enough of the stuff to do your
entire projects.
While applying the acid with a sponge or spray bottle may work (my results with
these methods was less than spectacular) dipping the parts will give the best
results and the least waste of the material. With the purchase of Alodine in
powder form, you can economically make 40 gallons of the stuff. I've dipped all
4 of my 1 piece RV-8A wing skins with 40 gallons. I've done my 15+ foot long
main longerons with the same amount, as well as my fuselage tail cone skins.
Just make sure you use this stuff in the shade. Exposure to direct sun light will
ruin the chemicals. Ask RV-8 builder Andy Johnson, he learned the hard way!
:-(
You can locate your nearest distributor of powdered Iridite 14-2 at:
http://www.macindustrialproducts.com/sales.html
To locate a local distributor of Henkel Surface Technologies Alodine 1201 go to
http://www.hstna.com/corrosion/contactus.cfm
http://www.hstna.com/index.cfm?location=10&subsection=5&faq=2
Please note that you must register with both companies to access their database
of literature and tech info on these products. Registration is free.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8A wiring
Boca Raton, Fl.
>
>Bob Japundza wrote:
>> None of the local chemical supply houses knew of or heard of Iridite 14-2 (Alodine).
> > Can anyone point me to a mail-order supplier?
>
>http://www.aircraftspruce.com/nsearch.php?s=alodine
>
>Does "chemical supply houses" include the local
>automotive paint store and/or body shops?
>--
>Tim Coldenhoff
>www.deru.com/~rv9a
>90338 - electrical/finishing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie & Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: OSH tie-downs |
They ain't cheap, but the price is probably about right to go with one
of those $400 fuel selector valves....
Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG) wrote:
>
>I'd hate to take money away from your Mississippi boys, but US$120 is
>*way* too steep for me.
>
>However, it does look like the kind of thing that *any* good ol' RV
>builder could put together on a Saturday afternoon with a few 12" nails,
>a few 3/16" bolts, and some bits of .063" angle aluminum. The only
>tricky thing would be how to attach the nails to the ends of the arms at
>the right angle... anyone got any ideas there?
>
>In fact, you could probably make them a bit smaller and lighter than the
>original... it looks like (apart from stability issues) you would only
>need *one* of the official Claw's to hold an RV down. Of course, the
>limiting factor is th strength of the soil that you nail these into! But
>maybe for RVs you could get away with 6" nails?
>
>Or maybe you could make it all out of Titanium? :-)
>
>Of course, you would have to buy your own hammer ;-)
>
>Frank
>
>
>
>>Here's the triple spike system someone mentioned:
>>
>>http://www.theclaw.com/products/claw.php
>>
>>
>
>Learn real skills for the real world - Apply online
>at http://www.ucol.ac.nz or call 0800 GO UCOL
>(0800 46 8265) or txt free 3388 for more information
>and make a good move to UCOL Universal College of
>Learning.
>
>Enrol with a public institute and be certain of your
>future
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: what does alodining do? |
In a message dated 3/17/2004 11:40:40 AM Pacific Standard Time,
rv-j(at)moriarti.org writes:
The primer I'm currently using specifically recommends against metal
treatments, so I'm not alodining, but I may switch primers in the
future. Talking about alodining got me curious. What, chemically, does
alodining do to the aluminum, and what is its purpose -- is it an
adhesion enhancer or an extra corrosion barrier?
Both. It's also a desert topping ;
)
It is merely a controlled corrosion of the surface aluminum layer that forms
a uniform oxide layer. The trick to keeping your old Alodine's mojo up is to
warm the solution up and oxygenate it using an aquarium stone.
GV (RV-6A N1GV flying 685 hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Clayton Henderson <gsuit(at)eonet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: what does alodining do? |
Jeff,
Do you really want to open THAT can of worms? :)
Seriously, check the archives for 'an exhaustive' listing on this
subject...under priming, alodine, etc.
Clayton Henderson
RV-7 Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Flop Tube - Which Tank |
| From: | "" <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com> |
All,
More stupid questions for the list...
- If I am installing a flop tube in just one tank...does it matter which one?
- Since I am using float senders, I know I will need to install the sender in the
flop tube tank in the 2nd bay. I understand that I use the regular cover plate
as a template to drill/cut the sender opening in the baffle. Any other modifications
that are needed? Is there any specific orientation that the sender
must be in the 2nd bay? Is there a best method for making the cutout in the
baffle?
- Does the vent tube get moved at all with the flop tube tank?
- I noticed that Van's sells a solid access plate if you are not using the float
sender holes. Any reason whay a piece of metal can't be riveted/sealed over
the sender opening? Trying to avoid another handling fee and 2 week ship time.
- Any other special parts needed for the tank completion?
Sorry for all the questions.
Thanks,
Scott
7A Wings
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flop Tube - Which Tank |
I put mine in the left tank, I don't think it matters at all which one.
If I had it to do again, however, I wouldn't do it at all. Unless you
intent to hang upside down, and have inverted oil as well, it's a waste
of time. It adds weight and complicates running the fuel lines in the
cockpit, with no real benefit.
That said, if you want to do it anyway:
>- Since I am using float senders, I know I will need to install the sender in
the flop tube tank in the 2nd bay. I understand that I use the regular cover
plate as a template to drill/cut the sender opening in the baffle. Any other
modifications that are needed? Is there any specific orientation that the sender
must be in the 2nd bay? Is there a best method for making the cutout in the
baffle?
>
Putting the sender in the second bay guarantees that the two gauges will
never be the same, with the same about of fuel in the tank, due to wing
dihedral. There is no real trick, just put the hole in the rear
baffle. I cut out the piece of the tank cover where the sender normally
attaches, and riveted/prosealed it to the baffle as a reinforcement.
You will have to modify the bend of the float arm.
>- Does the vent tube get moved at all with the flop tube tank?
>
No.
>- I noticed that Van's sells a solid access plate if you are not using the float
sender holes. Any reason whay a piece of metal can't be riveted/sealed over
the sender opening? Trying to avoid another handling fee and 2 week ship time.
>
I used the old cover, with the piece cut out (see above) as a template
to make a new cover out of scrap 063. Took about 15 minutes and saved
the time/cost from Vans. I would not rivet it on, as you will want to
be able to remove it to get access to the tank. I used the rubberized
cork gaskets, gooped up with form-a-gasket, and liberal use of fuelube
on the screws. No leaks or weaps yet (after two months with gas in the
tanks, time will tell...) Also, junk the black rubber gaskets supplied
with the senders. These have been a source of leaks to many builders.
I prosealed my senders right in- leak free, and not terribly difficult
to remove, should I ever need to replace a sender
>
>- Any other special parts needed for the tank completion?
>
Lots and lots of proseal. If a little is good, a lot is better, and way
too much is just right. ;)
Lots and lots of surgical gloves. I went through 3 or 4 boxes of 50.
Lots and lots of patience.
Jeff Point
RV-6 Flying! (for three days now)
Milwaukee WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randy Simpson <airtime(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How to use Ti-Downs? |
>
>Ok, with all the discussions about which tiedowns to get and use in
>various locations... Are there any tips from those of you that are
>using Randy's Titanium Ti-Downs as to how to use them?
>
>I have had a set for 2 years now and am still having problems getting
>them in far enough. At Arlington this last summer I was only able to
>get them in about half way using the supplied cheater bar. What are the
>rest of you doing? I saw Wheeler's all the way screwed in right next to
>me, but mine didn't seem to want to go in.
>
>- Andy Karmy
> RV9A Seattle WA
-------------------
Andy and other RV-listers with my titanium Ti-downs,
With the risk of overusing the RV-List bandwidth with all this Ti-down
discussion, here's my thoughts on this matter.
I'm probably most qualified to answer your good question, as I've probably
screwed Ti-downs into the ground more times and more places than anyone.
There are two main factors that control how deep a person can screw the
Ti-downs into the ground. #1 is how hard and rocky the ground is, and #2,
how strong the person is that's screwing them into the ground.
I make the points pretty sharp, which makes them cut thru hard dirt pretty
good, and when they hit rocks, the point can slip around the rocks sometime
by just twisting and flexing the Ti-downs a few times, and if that doesn't
work, unscrew it and try another spot a few inches away from the first
attempt. In real rocky ground, it sometimes takes several tries to get it
to go down all the way. In REALLY hard, rocky dirt, it doesn't need to go
all the way in. Finding a crack in the ground to start it also helps in
really hard ground. I've been able to screw them all the way into asphalt
several times, by finding a crack to screw them into.
When I decided on a standard length for the titanium cheater bar, I picked
a length that worked for me, a person with average strength. With the
length I came up with, twisting the Ti-downs with all my might, I can't
bend them to the distort point. I didn't want to make them too long, as it
may cause really strong people to twist the Ti-downs past their yeilding
point. Even tho the titanium is super strong, there are limits to it's
strength. Someone famous once said "if I had a lever long enough, I could
move the world", and that's true with the Ti-downs.
I fly on alot of long cross country aircamping adventures with Arty Trost,
a 60 yr old, 95 lb. grandmother with very limited strength. Alot of times,
I'd get mine in all the way, and she only would screw hers in halfway. I'd
usually see that and screw them in further for her.
Last year when I broke my collarbone badly, I made a special longer
cheaterbar to use, and it made it easier to screw them into hard ground.
When my collarbone healed up (about as good as it's gonna be), I gave the
long cheater bar to Arty, and now she can sink her Ti-downs in alot further.
Now, I wouldn't want to accuse anyone of being weak, but lets face it, not
everyone has the same strength as everyone else. Andy's note today made me
realize I should offer longer cheater bars to people that request them, so
I may do that.
If there's anyone that thinks they'd be able to benefit from a longer
cheater bar, please let me know and I'll send you one. It may not fit into
the screwed-together-for-storage Ti-downs as well as the cheater bars I
currently supply with the kits, but it'll still fit in the storage bag ok.
I'm always looking for ways to improve the Ti-down's user-friendliness, and
this may be one way to do that.
For those of you that've not recieved your ordered Ti-downs yet, please
know that I'm working hard on getting caught up. I'm shipping Ti-downs
daily, in the order I recieved the orders, unless someone requests them
asap, due to needing them right away...
Sincerely,
Randy Simpson
Airtime Mfg.
http://www.airtimemfg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Defective Flap Actuator |
>Although I'm not real pleased with an actuator design that holds itself
>together with 10 or so threads and some loctite, both Vans and Usher told me
>that they'd never encountered this problem before.
>
>Any thoughts?
There are different types of Loctite out there some are removable some are
not. If you REALLY dont want it to come apart use Loctite bearing retainer.
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pcondon" <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | stick/rudder lock |
For .49 cents, get a new, white PVC elbow from the hardware store and put a
piece of old safety belt webbing on one end. A 16 to 18 inch piece of
webbing (Loews and Home Depo also has this webbing) screwed with some
washers to one end of the elbow is all it takes. Slip the other end of the
elbow ever the passenger stick (top) and loop the real aircraft passenger
safety belt thru the elbow belt webbing, snug the real safety belt (after
latching). (Takes less time to do this then it took to read this
blather.....) FWIW I found some orange webbing and used SS #10
screws.....looks good, weighs nothing, costs nothing and works.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Difficult to drill rivets cleanly. |
Drilling through the rivet might work on big rivets but it's difficult
to use that technique on #3's or 4"s without damaging the hole. The best
way that I've found is to use a drill the same size as the hole and
drill only through the rivet HEAD then using a punch the size of the
hole (with a sharp edge) pop the rivet head off, and using a little
smaller punch, tap the rivet shank out of the hole. This avoids
excessive damage to the hole.
Dave Bristol RV6 Flying So Cal
EAA Technical Counselor
Rob W M Shipley wrote:
>
>
>"Gerry Filby "clean" and if you can avoid it you're better off going that
>way. Also there's two blind rivets between the tip rib and the
>end of the spar which, if I heed the many warnings I've seen,
>are very difficult to drill out. I'm not worried so much about
>the cosmetics of it, more the strength."
>
>For those who are finding rivet removal less than straightforward try my method.
No guarantees but it works for me. Drill a hole down through the center of
the rivet one size smaller than the rivet diameter and just barely through the
thickness of the parts it is holding together. If you have a lot to do a depth
stop can be useful here. Then with a variable speed drill running slowly
and using a bit slightly smaller than the rivet head at about a 45 deg. angle,
twist off the head. Now the shop head can now be twisted away with a high quality
pair of linesman's pliers. If this technique is mastered you'll cause
no damage to the hole. If the swelling rivet has slightly enlarged the hole take
the next length rivet and very gently give it a SLIGHT squeeze to increase
it's diameter a little and ensure a snug fit.
>Good luck
>Rob
>Rob W M Shipley
>N919RV (res) Fuselage .....still!
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re:Defective Flap Actuator |
The rod end bearing screwed out the end of my flap actuator (because I had
not secured it as the plans suggest) on final one day. Makes a big 'thunk'
as you go from full to no flaps. With some altitude it's no big deal but I
wouldn't want it to happen down close. With that experience behind me I
don't adjust the flaps either on TO or landing when I'm low.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net> |
"Rv-List(at)Matronics. Com" ,
"Rv9-List(at)Matronics. Com" ,
"Rv8-List(at)Matronics. Com" ,
, ,
, ,
I am posting this to all the RV lists so if you get duplicates dont be
upset.
It is that time for me at Blue Sky Aviation to add another set of
experienced hands. I am looking for someone with prior building experience,
A&P would be nice, along with private pilot ticket. Must be trustworthy,
hard working, reliable, and a good eye for detail.
If you are or know of someone, please have him or her give me a call or drop
me an email. This is a full time permanent position and is available
immediately.
Sincerely,
Noel Simmons
Blue Sky Aviation, Inc.
Phone & Fax: 406-538-6574
noel(at)blueskyaviation.net
www.blueskyaviation.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | stick/rudder lock |
This works for the elevators but what about the rudder?
Ross
N9PT
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> For .49 cents, get a new, white PVC elbow from the hardware
> store and put a piece of old safety belt webbing on one end.
> A 16 to 18 inch piece of webbing (Loews and Home Depo also
> has this webbing) screwed with some washers to one end of the
> elbow is all it takes. Slip the other end of the elbow ever
> the passenger stick (top) and loop the real aircraft
> passenger safety belt thru the elbow belt webbing, snug the
> real safety belt (after latching). (Takes less time to do
> this then it took to read this
> blather.....) FWIW I found some orange webbing and used SS
> #10 screws.....looks good, weighs nothing, costs nothing and works.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Eberhart <steve(at)newtech.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Difficult to drill rivets cleanly. |
I have a flat 1/2" wide sharp wood carvers chisel that easily slices off
the shop head. A pin punch can usually punch out the bad rivet. THere
are places where it works great and some where punching out the rivet
can damage the skins. Just an FYI.
Steve Eberhart
RV-7A - still working on wings.
Dave Bristol wrote:
>
> Drilling through the rivet might work on big rivets but it's difficult
> to use that technique on #3's or 4"s without damaging the hole. The best
> way that I've found is to use a drill the same size as the hole and
> drill only through the rivet HEAD then using a punch the size of the
> hole (with a sharp edge) pop the rivet head off, and using a little
> smaller punch, tap the rivet shank out of the hole. This avoids
> excessive damage to the hole.
>
> Dave Bristol RV6 Flying So Cal
> EAA Technical Counselor
>
> Rob W M Shipley wrote:
>
>
>>
>>
>>"Gerry Filby >"clean" and if you can avoid it you're better off going that
>>way. Also there's two blind rivets between the tip rib and the
>>end of the spar which, if I heed the many warnings I've seen,
>>are very difficult to drill out. I'm not worried so much about
>>the cosmetics of it, more the strength."
>>
>>For those who are finding rivet removal less than straightforward try my method.
No guarantees but it works for me. Drill a hole down through the center
of the rivet one size smaller than the rivet diameter and just barely through
the thickness of the parts it is holding together. If you have a lot to do a
depth stop can be useful here. Then with a variable speed drill running slowly
and using a bit slightly smaller than the rivet head at about a 45 deg. angle,
twist off the head. Now the shop head can now be twisted away with a high
quality pair of linesman's pliers. If this technique is mastered you'll cause
no damage to the hole. If the swelling rivet has slightly enlarged the hole
take the next length rivet and very gently give it a SLIGHT squeeze to increase
it's diameter a little and ensure a snug fit.
>>Good luck
>>Rob
>>Rob W M Shipley
>>N919RV (res) Fuselage .....still!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Engine monitoring |
A beautiful instrument but priced for what? Learjets?
I want a 3" instrument that shows what I need to know. I don't need to
know that all four egts are in the green as are all four chts. I don't
need to know that both fuel tanks are at least half full. Don't show me a
clock so I can see a trend, advise me if there is an ugly trend in progress
etc etc.
I don't want to see data - I want to see information! For less than $500.
hal (retired software engineer)
At 11:58 AM 3/17/2004, you wrote:
>
>www.sterntech.com
>
>Regards,
>Trampas Stern
>
>Stern Technologies
>4321 Waterwheel Dr
>Raleigh NC 27606
>919-832-8441 Ext. 12 (voice)
>919-832-8441 (fax)
>www.sterntech.com
>tstern(at)sterntech.com
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Neil McLeod
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine monitoring
>
>
>Do you have a web site?
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Trampas
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Engine monitoring
>
>
>I just wanted to let you know that Stern Tech's engine monitor is now
>shipping!
>
>It is a graphical engine monitor which can be configured for any engine
>up
>to 8 cylinders. The user can change the display layout and even sensors
>calibration. Now you can have an engine monitor the way you want it.
>
>If you have any questions please feel free to call me or email me.
>
>Regards,
>Trampas Stern
>1-877-820-6590
>
>
>=
>=
>=
>=
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
| Subject: | Engine monitoring |
The problem with that approach is that you still need to see the raw
data to confirm that a true alarm condition exists. What you want can be
done with 'idiot lights'.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of kempthornes
Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine monitoring
A beautiful instrument but priced for what? Learjets?
I want a 3" instrument that shows what I need to know. I don't need to
know that all four egts are in the green as are all four chts. I don't
need to know that both fuel tanks are at least half full. Don't show me
a
clock so I can see a trend, advise me if there is an ugly trend in
progress
etc etc.
I don't want to see data - I want to see information! For less than
$500.
hal (retired software engineer)
At 11:58 AM 3/17/2004, you wrote:
>
>www.sterntech.com
>
>Regards,
>Trampas Stern
>
>Stern Technologies
>4321 Waterwheel Dr
>Raleigh NC 27606
>919-832-8441 Ext. 12 (voice)
>919-832-8441 (fax)
>www.sterntech.com
>tstern(at)sterntech.com
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Neil McLeod
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine monitoring
>
>
>Do you have a web site?
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Trampas
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Engine monitoring
>
>
>I just wanted to let you know that Stern Tech's engine monitor is now
>shipping!
>
>It is a graphical engine monitor which can be configured for any engine
>up
>to 8 cylinders. The user can change the display layout and even sensors
>calibration. Now you can have an engine monitor the way you want it.
>
>If you have any questions please feel free to call me or email me.
>
>Regards,
>Trampas Stern
>1-877-820-6590
>
>
>=
>=
>=
>=
>
>
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
...(he) must be trustworthy, hard working, reliable, and a good eye for
detail.....
Hey, hire me and I'll help you look for someone like that !
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | For Sale - RV-6 Almost done with a panel to die for |
Hi
Srry if I dubble the mail - did it work the other day?
Ok - Your Rv still for sale? If so please some info!? Will you be at Sun
and Fun ? I will show up and try to find something "exiting" !
All the best
Goran Wintzell
-----Ursprungligt meddelande-----
Frn: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] Fr Tim Bryan
Skickat: den 20 december 2003 06:31
Till: rv-list(at)matronics.com
mne: RV-List: For Sale - RV-6 Almost done with a panel to die for
Listers,
My RV-6 is for sale. It is almost done.
Sheet metal work is pretty much done, Canopy is pretty much done except
for
fiberglass.
Cowling is cut and fitted but hinges not on permanent, Engine is
installed,
baffles are fitted and installed but no chaffe rubber yet, panel
installed
complete, wiring done, wings test fitted.
0-360A1A Lycoming from Aerosport, New Constant Speed prop from Vans
I have everything to finish this airplane except the paint.
Serious buyers contact me off list for further details.
Tim Bryan
tim(at)bryantechnology.com
Redmond, Oregon
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Sneed <n242ds(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: stick/rudder lock |
I use a bungee with clips on both ends run it around the stick to hold
a full aft-right position. Bought a container of bungees from home depo
for $4. I clip to the back of the seat or anywhere I see fit.
JS
On Mar 18, 2004, at 10:37 AM, Ross Mickey wrote:
>
> This works for the elevators but what about the rudder?
>
> Ross
> N9PT
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
>> For .49 cents, get a new, white PVC elbow from the hardware
>> store and put a piece of old safety belt webbing on one end.
>> A 16 to 18 inch piece of webbing (Loews and Home Depo also
>> has this webbing) screwed with some washers to one end of the
>> elbow is all it takes. Slip the other end of the elbow ever
>> the passenger stick (top) and loop the real aircraft
>> passenger safety belt thru the elbow belt webbing, snug the
>> real safety belt (after latching). (Takes less time to do
>> this then it took to read this
>> blather.....) FWIW I found some orange webbing and used SS
>> #10 screws.....looks good, weighs nothing, costs nothing and works.
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
Jason Sneed
Commercial Lending Officer
First National Bank and Trust
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Sisson," <sisson(at)consolidated.net> |
Where is this position located?
tnx, Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Trampas" <tstern(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Engine monitoring |
My philosophy is fairly simple, in that the purpose of engine monitoring is
to prevent two things, your death and harming the engine.
The difference between the Pulsar 200 and other engine monitors on the
market is you get to decide what you want to monitor and want to alarm on.
That is the Pulsar is a blank slate that you can easily define what you want
to see, how you want to see it.
For example if you want to only have an oil pressure alarm when the
tachometer is above 500RPMs you can easily do that, if you do not like the
analog gauges and want to show all the data as digital only, you can do
that. If you want to add a humidity sensor to the unit, you can do it. If
you want to alarm when the left and right magneto are reading different by
more than 100RPMs you can do that.
It is really hard to explain the unit, other than to say it is a data
acquisition box, with a built in programmable calculator with display and
data logging capabilities.
For all you engineers and software developers out there, imagine an engine
monitor where you could program how it works, what it shows, and how it
shows it, then Pulsar is that engine monitor.
That is the Pulsar is not an engine monitor, it is your engine monitor the
way you want it.
Regards,
Trampas Stern
www.sterntech.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Gray
Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine monitoring
The problem with that approach is that you still need to see the raw
data to confirm that a true alarm condition exists. What you want can be
done with 'idiot lights'.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of kempthornes
Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine monitoring
A beautiful instrument but priced for what? Learjets?
I want a 3" instrument that shows what I need to know. I don't need to
know that all four egts are in the green as are all four chts. I don't
need to know that both fuel tanks are at least half full. Don't show me
a
clock so I can see a trend, advise me if there is an ugly trend in
progress
etc etc.
I don't want to see data - I want to see information! For less than
$500.
hal (retired software engineer)
At 11:58 AM 3/17/2004, you wrote:
>
>www.sterntech.com
>
>Regards,
>Trampas Stern
>
>Stern Technologies
>4321 Waterwheel Dr
>Raleigh NC 27606
>919-832-8441 Ext. 12 (voice)
>919-832-8441 (fax)
>www.sterntech.com
>tstern(at)sterntech.com
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Neil McLeod
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine monitoring
>
>
>Do you have a web site?
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Trampas
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Engine monitoring
>
>
>I just wanted to let you know that Stern Tech's engine monitor is now
>shipping!
>
>It is a graphical engine monitor which can be configured for any engine
>up
>to 8 cylinders. The user can change the display layout and even sensors
>calibration. Now you can have an engine monitor the way you want it.
>
>If you have any questions please feel free to call me or email me.
>
>Regards,
>Trampas Stern
>1-877-820-6590
>
>
>=
>=
>=
>=
>
>
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Engine monitoring |
Hal,
This doesn't answer your desire for less than $500, but check out Blue
Mountain EFIS/one's approach. You don't see the engine instruments on the
screen unless you want to, OR one of them goes outside of the range you have
set for it. Then it pops up to alert you. It records all engine instruments
and all flight data every 5 seconds and allows you to download it onto a
Compact Flash card and run it through software to display trends or whatever
else you want to look at, and you can get it from Van's.
Terry
RV-8A wiring
Seattle
A beautiful instrument but priced for what? Learjets?
I want a 3" instrument that shows what I need to know. I don't need to
know that all four egts are in the green as are all four chts. I don't
need to know that both fuel tanks are at least half full. Don't show me a
clock so I can see a trend, advise me if there is an ugly trend in progress
etc etc.
I don't want to see data - I want to see information! For less than $500.
hal (retired software engineer)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | stick/rudder lock |
Here's how Mike Robbins did it in his RV-8. Scroll down and you will see
pictures of his rear seat stick lock and his rudder lock.
http://www.rv-8.com/MikeRobbins.htm
Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us(at)hotmail.com> |
John, What are you looking for this individual to do? If the person has the
passion for the task at hand or job you may find a whole lot of people
willing. Long term? Rate of pay? And qualifications needed for this potion?
Thanks, Bruce
>From: "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: job offer Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2004 11:00:35 -0700
>
>
>...(he) must be trustworthy, hard working, reliable, and a good eye for
>detail.....
>
>
>Hey, hire me and I'll help you look for someone like that !
>
>John
>
>
http://moneycentral.msn.com/tax/home.asp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jordan Grant" <gra9933(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Workshop to paint shed conversion |
Listers:
I am about to build a 24'x32' workshop behind my home. After the building
is complete, I plan to use it as a dedicated paint shed to paint my RV-6.
After that's finished, I plan to turn it into a full-up workshop. My
question is for the experienced painters out there. What can I do to have
the best and safest paint shed possible (within budgetary reason, of course)
using this building? Specific areas I'm thinking about:
1. Ventilation
2. Dust/bug prevention
3. Lighting
Has anyone out there successfully turned their home
workshop/garage/outbuilding into a dedicated paint shed?
Thanks for your help,
Jordan Grant
RV6 N198G (Reserved)
Fuel system and workshop building
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
I see in the archives that Scott McDaniels likes to put UHMW tape on the
baffles where they contact the cylinder heads to reduce wear and tear on
the baffles. Is anybody else doing this?
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Alternative Strobes |
| From: | "" <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com> |
Reposting for Larry's request...
--- On Sun 01/18, Radomir Zaric < radomirz(at)vitez.net > wrote:
From: Radomir Zaric [mailto: radomirz(at)vitez.net]
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 14:35:14 -0500
Subject: RE: RV-List: Alternative Strobes
As for Aeroflash tail position/strobe, I think this is what you'd be
looking for:
http://www.aeroflash.com/plane.html#tailposition
(PS.. I didn't find this listed on ACS site).
Going with this whole Aeroflash set... the price difference between it
and the Whelen system is not all that much (something like $570 vs.
$780).
Some folks on the list have cast their doubts in the Aeroflash setup as
not being bright enough... but I wouldn't know for sure, as I have no
experience with 'em.
Also, what I saw in the archives was that someone was using this PS:
(http://strobeguy.safeshopper.com/11/1808.htm?326)
Even going with this one, the savings over Whelen are not all that
exciting :(
While I'm not there yet, my understanding is that you wouldn't have to
have two conduits for strobes and landing lights... However, this would
be a must with a wingtip mounted antenna -- where the
interference would
be noticeable.
HTH.
Radomir
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]
Subject: RV-List: Alternative Strobes
All,
I'va heard lots about some alternative strobe sources from
strobes-n-more, but I have been haing a hard time understanding what I
need in looking at their website. I am looking to have a setup similar
to the Whelan "System 6" (nav/strobe on wings, position/strobe on tail).
I am also considering Aeroflash, but the only solution I can seem to
find is nav/strobe on wings and position on tail (no 3 strobe power).
Anyone have a non-Whelan solution (part numbers would be great) that is
equivalent to System 6?
Also, since i will have nav/strobes and duckworks lights
in the wings,
do I not need to drill two separate conduit holes to separate the strobe
lines (for noise)? Right now i am drilling holes low and aft of the 1st
lightening hole (per the recent thread).
Thanks,
Scott Haskins
RV7A Wings
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
=
=
=
.com
=
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Great RV-6A for sale |
Fellow Listers:
Dick Nordquist, one of our local MN Wing members has just put up his RV-6A
for sale. This is a nice, neat clean -6A, with impeccable workmanship.
Here's a link to the website with all the details. Please take a look!!
Thanks
Doug Weiler
pres, MN Wing
http://www.pressenter.com/~dougweil/N666RN/
________________________________________________________________________________
f1builders(at)lists.cc.utexas.edu
| Subject: | F1 Rocket QB wings for sale |
FOR SALE
Complete F1 Rocket QB wing set including all related parts (fairings, tips, etc)
and hardware. Asking $12K, will crate and ship anywhere within the continental
U.S.
Danny Melnik
F1 #25
Melbourne (FL) Rocket Factory
407-687-3126
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | stick/rudder lock |
>Here's how Mike Robbins did it in his RV-8. Scroll down and you will see
>pictures of his rear seat stick lock and his rudder lock.
>http://www.rv-8.com/MikeRobbins.htm
http://www.rv-8.com/MikeRobbins/GustLock.JPG
That's very cool. Something similar installed
in the front, connected to one or both rudder
pedals would be *perfect*! :-)
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Kirby" <davewendi(at)earthlink.net> |
Looking for a set of used sheet metal tools. Please contact me directly.
David Kirby
RV-6A QB
Griffin, Ga.
davewendi(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)excelgeo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: UHMW on Baffles |
Yes. I pulled my baffles for a cylinder change and was amazed at how the
fins had worn into the baffles. I installed uhmw in an attempt to slow
the wear and tear.
Z
Larry Bowen wrote:
>
>I see in the archives that Scott McDaniels likes to put UHMW tape on the
>baffles where they contact the cylinder heads to reduce wear and tear on
>the baffles. Is anybody else doing this?
>
>-
>Larry Bowen
>Larry(at)BowenAero.com
>http://BowenAero.com
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tandem vs SBS Seating |
On the SBS seating I dont like butting shoulders or shoulder over lap. I
was in a 6 a while back and the pilot could not get max stick movement
because I could not get my legs out of the way. I have heard this comment
before on most SBS. I am 6' 3" and 195 so I am not carrying a lot of extra lbs.
Aside from these details, I think that the SBS seating is better
>in every way...especially if you enjoy company while flying. You also
>reduce CG loading issues with SBS seating.
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ollie Washburn" <ollie-6a(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Fw: RV Fly-in and Bar-BQ Lunch |
Subject: Fl.Wing of Vans Airforce Fly-in and Bar-BQ lunch
Finally it looks like we will have good weather for the RV fly-in tomorrow. Hope
to see all of you here. There will be coffee and doughnuts for the early birds
and sumptuous slow smoked pork plus hamburgers,hotdogs,ham and all the other
fixins at noon.
Location--Love's Landing Airpark ( 97FL) N 28*57.42 W 081*53.29 10 mi.
N. of Leesburg. Driving take RT 27 to CR42, East on 42 to 155th ave. South
on 155th to 175th st. East on 175th about 1/2 mi along white fence to gate.
Straight through gate to bright yellow house and hopfully many,many RVs.
Runway---18/36 (9/27 will be closed unless there is strong wind)
Freq.-------122.9
NOTE---- This is private airport; land at your own risk.
Ollie Washburn ollie-6a(at)prodigy.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard" <chiefs(at)peak.org> |
Listers...
Anybody have any idea where I could find rubber hole plugs that are about 1 1/4
in dia.?
My plan is to use them in the wheel pants on my RV-8. I am too lazy to make doors
to gain access to wheels to inflate tires.
Dick White
RV-8 N94DW
Old Crow
Newport, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Rubber (body) plugs |
Richard,
Rubber "Body Plug Assortments" are available from JC Whitney, page 184 in
current catalog 684J-03.
1-800-529-4486 or < www.jcw.com >
Jack
>From: "Richard" <chiefs(at)peak.org>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Rubber plug
>Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2004 07:27:46 -0800
>
>
>Listers...
>
>Anybody have any idea where I could find rubber hole plugs that are about 1
>1/4 in dia.?
>
>My plan is to use them in the wheel pants on my RV-8. I am too lazy to
>make doors to gain access to wheels to inflate tires.
>
>Dick White
>RV-8 N94DW
>Old Crow
>Newport, OR
>
>
Check out MSN PC Safety & Security to help ensure your PC is protected and
safe. http://specials.msn.com/msn/security.asp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Re: UHMW on Baffles |
I installed UHMW on the baffles from day one.
On day two, after the first engine start, the baffles get hot enough
to melt the adhesive holding the UHMW on. Then the UHMW starts
curling up....lots of baked on adhesive not holding the UHMW....
As long as the UHMW doesn't slip out of place, it still protects the
baffle, but it looks like crap.
Laird RV-6 950 hrs
SoCal
>
>Yes. I pulled my baffles for a cylinder change and was amazed at how the
>fins had worn into the baffles. I installed uhmw in an attempt to slow
>the wear and tear.
>
>Z
>
>Larry Bowen wrote:
>
>>
>>I see in the archives that Scott McDaniels likes to put UHMW tape on the
>>baffles where they contact the cylinder heads to reduce wear and tear on
>>the baffles. Is anybody else doing this?
>>
>>-
>>Larry Bowen
>>Larry(at)BowenAero.com
>>http://BowenAero.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Cutter" <rcutter(at)cupower.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rubber (body) plugs |
You may also try your local "rubber and gasket" store. They usually have many
different sizes of rubber grommets and/or plugs and you might not have to get
a complete assortment.
Robert Cutter
----- Original Message -----
From: Jack Blomgren
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, March 19, 2004 11:25 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Rubber (body) plugs
Richard,
Rubber "Body Plug Assortments" are available from JC Whitney, page 184 in
current catalog 684J-03.
1-800-529-4486 or < www.jcw.com >
Jack
>From: "Richard" <chiefs(at)peak.org>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Rubber plug
>Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2004 07:27:46 -0800
>
>
>Listers...
>
>Anybody have any idea where I could find rubber hole plugs that are about 1
>1/4 in dia.?
>
>My plan is to use them in the wheel pants on my RV-8. I am too lazy to
>make doors to gain access to wheels to inflate tires.
>
>Dick White
>RV-8 N94DW
>Old Crow
>Newport, OR
>
>
Check out MSN PC Safety & Security to help ensure your PC is protected and
safe. http://specials.msn.com/msn/security.asp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finn.lassen(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine monitoring |
Hal at first glance I would agree with you.
I would never pay that kind of money, I'd rather design and build it myself.
But, turn around and look at it from the perspective of someone that
might like to make a bit of a profit and maybe even a living. It's not
just the materials and manufacturing, it's the promotion, sales and not
least tech support. What kind of hourly wage would *you* be willing to
work for?
I thought about designing and selling a simple and cheap engine monitor,
but the price growns rapidly if you don't want to answer endless
questions for free, not to mention fixing broken units ("I plugged it
into wall outlet at home to play with it - was that wrong?"). Might get
real old after a while. I think that people expect you to be at their
disposal if they have paid you for something (no matter how little), so
you might as well make it enough to cover your expenses and make a tiny
profit.
Finn
kempthornes wrote:
>
>A beautiful instrument but priced for what? Learjets?
>
>I want a 3" instrument that shows what I need to know. I don't need to
>know that all four egts are in the green as are all four chts. I don't
>need to know that both fuel tanks are at least half full. Don't show me a
>clock so I can see a trend, advise me if there is an ugly trend in progress
>etc etc.
>
>I don't want to see data - I want to see information! For less than $500.
>
>hal (retired software engineer)
>
>At 11:58 AM 3/17/2004, you wrote:
>
>
>>
>>www.sterntech.com
>>
>>Regards,
>>Trampas Stern
>>
>>Stern Technologies
>>4321 Waterwheel Dr
>>Raleigh NC 27606
>>919-832-8441 Ext. 12 (voice)
>>919-832-8441 (fax)
>>www.sterntech.com
>>tstern(at)sterntech.com
>>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Neil McLeod
>>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine monitoring
>>
>>
>>Do you have a web site?
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Trampas
>>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: RV-List: Engine monitoring
>>
>>
>>I just wanted to let you know that Stern Tech's engine monitor is now
>>shipping!
>>
>>It is a graphical engine monitor which can be configured for any engine
>>up
>>to 8 cylinders. The user can change the display layout and even sensors
>>calibration. Now you can have an engine monitor the way you want it.
>>
>>If you have any questions please feel free to call me or email me.
>>
>>Regards,
>>Trampas Stern
>>1-877-820-6590
>>
>>
>>=
>>=
>>=
>>=
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV-7 Rudder Question |
Listers,
I decided to build my replacement rudder (RV-9) before flying my RV-7A. Have
there been any changes in the past year. I was one of the first to get the
replacement rudder after I had already built the original RV-7 rudder. The
original rudder had .020 skins. The replacement has .016 skins. Is this the
same as current RV-7 kits?
Dan RV-7A
(70066) (almost done)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
| Subject: | some questions from a new guy |
On Fri, 19 Mar 2004, Scott Bilinski wrote:
> Nose draggers are cheaper to insure over tail draggers, period.
In the context, you seem to be suggesting that this fact indicates an RV
taildragger is more likely to be involved in a wreck than an RV nosedragger.
But I think you'll find that the actuarial data used isn't that fine-grained.
If RV taildragger insurance is higher it's almost certainly because taildragger
insurance is IN GENERAL higher, not because RV taildraggers, specifically,
represent a higher risk.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ollie Washburn" <ollie-6a(at)prodigy.net> |
Subject: TFR
CAUTION---To all RVers coming to Love's Landing Bar-BQ from South Florida, the
Orlando TFR is official and is active Sat 20th from 11am until 1:45 pm.So,get
out early and head for the fly-in.Also note that the TFR ring is different than
the normal 30 mi ring around Orlando.
Fly safe Ollie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "W. Doyce Graham" <dgraham(at)CLEMSON.EDU> |
In response to the report of motor being loose on an Altrak I took down the
baggage compartment panels and inspected mine. Motor was secure and bolts
were tight. Would not tighten at all.
Doyce Graham
RV 6 N69TB
________________________________________________________________________________
I got mine from ACE Hardware. They are chromed metal and they
were in the section where they have drawers of stainless screws, washers
and kind of special stuff. 75 cents ea.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard
Subject: RV-List: Rubber plug
Listers...
Anybody have any idea where I could find rubber hole plugs that are
about 1 1/4 in dia.?
My plan is to use them in the wheel pants on my RV-8. I am too lazy to
make doors to gain access to wheels to inflate tires.
Dick White
RV-8 N94DW
Old Crow
Newport, OR
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: some questions from a new guy |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Jeff,
Actually "looking cool" never really occurred to me as a factor in the side-by-side
vs tandem decision. I think the centerline seating position for the pilot
is better than the SBS configuration, especially for visibility. Also when
I started my -8A, the -7/A didn't exist yet, so for me the -8A offered a more
advanced kit (more prepunching etc), more fuel capacity, and more engine options
than the -6/A kit offered at the time. Today, it would be a tough choice between
the -8A and -7A....I now have kids and would probably lean towards the
-7A out of consideration for them, even though as a pilot I think the -8A will
always be better.
Just some things to consider...
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D fwf forever...
From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: some questions from a new guy
I cant resist.
If were going to question masculinity, why get a tandem in the first place?
If the extra 3 knots is the answer, ok. Otherwise, its all about looking
cool. A side by side wins in every other way.
Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
58 hours
Chicago/Louisville
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
word of caution, about two or three years ago a fella took off out of
Arlington in WA and had the right stick was strapped with the seat belt in a
RV6, plane went up and then down, and he burned to death after telling
everyone to get away from the burning wreckage.
The lesson is to only lock the controls at the location you use them, such
that you have to hurt yourself just to sit in that seat with the locks in
place.
And one more significant advantage of tail draggers with steerable wheels is
they keep the rudder locked.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: some questions from a new guy |
I am 6' 3" and 215lbs and do not find it a problem at all getting enough
control movement even with another
passenger my size. In reality how often well you be using max contol
movement while carrying a passenger?
Also it is more fun to have your female passenger sitting beside you.
IMO :-)
Jerry
Scott Bilinski wrote:
>
>On the SBS seating I dont like butting shoulders or shoulder over lap. I
>was in a 6 a while back and the pilot could not get max stick movement
>because I could not get my legs out of the way. I have heard this comment
>before on most SBS. I am 6' 3" and 195 so I am not carrying a lot of extra lbs.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)QCBC.ORG> |
Hardware store has snap-in style plastic plugs with a flange like Cessna
uses.
Cy Galley - Bellanca Champion Club
Newsletter Editor-in-Chief & EAA TC
www.bellanca-championclub.com
Actively supporting Aeroncas every day
Quarterly newsletters on time
Reasonable document reprints
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard" <chiefs(at)peak.org>
Subject: RV-List: Rubber plug
>
> Listers...
>
> Anybody have any idea where I could find rubber hole plugs that are about
1 1/4 in dia.?
>
> My plan is to use them in the wheel pants on my RV-8. I am too lazy to
make doors to gain access to wheels to inflate tires.
>
> Dick White
> RV-8 N94DW
> Old Crow
> Newport, OR
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Cylinder Blocker |
There has been some discussion on the list about the effectiveness in using cylinder
blockers to balance out CHT's. In general, people report the #1 cylinder
(right front) is the coolest, with #3 (right rear) being the warmest. Adding
a cylinder blocker in front of #1 is supposed to increase the temp on #1 and
reduce the temp on #3.
In my case, Cht's were typically 325 for #1, 335 for #2 & #4 and 375 for #3 during
cruise. During takeoff and climb out, #3 was usually well over 400F, sometimes
over 425F, while the other cylinders were 50 degrees cooler.
To make a long story short, I added a cylinder blocker to the front of #1 and the
variation between #1 and #3 is way down. The variation is probably no more
than 15 degrees now, and the maximum variation between any two cylinders is down
as well. I'd say #'s 1, 2, and 4 are now in the 335F range in cruise, with
#3 350F or less. In particular, the temps on #3 are much better in climb, and
30+ degrees cooler in cruise. I'd rate this experiment a success.
How did I fabricate the cylinder blocker? It is a small piece of .032 sheet that
is as wide as the cylinder head, but doesn't cover any of the barrel. The
sheet rivets to the bottom baffle ramp where the ramp slopes upwards towards
the cylinder. The blocker follows that line, which hits the cylinder about 3/4"
above where the stock ramp meets the cylinder fins. In addition, the blocker
has a 1/2" wide flange that rests against the cylinder fins, and raises the
overall height of the blocker to 1.25".
I'm very happy with the results, so I don't plan to experiment and find the *perfect*
height. 1.25 inches with "my" geometry is fine for me...
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob W M Shipley" <rob(at)robsglass.com> |
Dave, 3s and 4s are exactly the rivets this technique works well for. The key
is to use a drill bit bit with a smaller diameter than the rivet. The benefit
of drilling most of the way through is that much of the stress on the sides of
the hole is removed and the rivet is far easier to remove cleanly. A major
difficulty I encountered with the punch method is the damage that can be done
to thinner skins when trying to drive the rivet through. The drill and twist
method eliminates this difficulty.
It really isn't hard. I taught a new builder the technique in five minutes last
weekend and I'm certain if you try it you'll be pleased.
Rob
From: Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Difficult to drill rivets cleanly.
Drilling through the rivet might work on big rivets but it's difficult
to use that technique on #3's or 4"s without damaging the hole. The best
way that I've found is to use a drill the same size as the hole and
drill only through the rivet HEAD then using a punch the size of the
hole (with a sharp edge) pop the rivet head off, and using a little
smaller punch, tap the rivet shank out of the hole. This avoids
excessive damage to the hole.
Dave Bristol RV6 Flying So Cal
EAA Technical Counselor
Rob W M Shipley wrote:
>
>
>"Gerry Filby "clean" and if you can avoid it you're better off going that
>way. Also there's two blind rivets between the tip rib and the
>end of the spar which, if I heed the many warnings I've seen,
>are very difficult to drill out. I'm not worried so much about
>the cosmetics of it, more the strength."
>
>For those who are finding rivet removal less than straightforward try my method.
No guarantees but it works for me. Drill a hole down through the center of
the rivet one size smaller than the rivet diameter and just barely through the
thickness of the parts it is holding together. If you have a lot to do a depth
stop can be useful here. Then with a variable speed drill running slowly
and using a bit slightly smaller than the rivet head at about a 45 deg. angle,
twist off the head. Now the shop head can now be twisted away with a high quality
pair of linesman's pliers. If this technique is mastered you'll cause
no damage to the hole. If the swelling rivet has slightly enlarged the hole take
the next length rivet and very gently give it a SLIGHT squeeze to increase
it's diameter a little and ensure a snug fit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: stick/rudder lock |
How about running a bungee from the stick to one of the rudder pedals?
It seems like it should work.
Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
58 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jason Sneed" <n242ds(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: stick/rudder lock
>
> I use a bungee with clips on both ends run it around the stick to hold
> a full aft-right position. Bought a container of bungees from home depo
> for $4. I clip to the back of the seat or anywhere I see fit.
>
> JS
>
>
> On Mar 18, 2004, at 10:37 AM, Ross Mickey wrote:
>
> >
> > This works for the elevators but what about the rudder?
> >
> > Ross
> > N9PT
> >
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> >
> >> For .49 cents, get a new, white PVC elbow from the hardware
> >> store and put a piece of old safety belt webbing on one end.
> >> A 16 to 18 inch piece of webbing (Loews and Home Depo also
> >> has this webbing) screwed with some washers to one end of the
> >> elbow is all it takes. Slip the other end of the elbow ever
> >> the passenger stick (top) and loop the real aircraft
> >> passenger safety belt thru the elbow belt webbing, snug the
> >> real safety belt (after latching). (Takes less time to do
> >> this then it took to read this
> >> blather.....) FWIW I found some orange webbing and used SS
> >> #10 screws.....looks good, weighs nothing, costs nothing and works.
> >
> >
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
> Jason Sneed
> Commercial Lending Officer
> First National Bank and Trust
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Cours <rv-j(at)moriarti.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-7 Rudder Question |
Hopperdhh(at)aol.com wrote:
> The replacement has .016 skins. Is this the same as current RV-7
> kits?
I just mic-ed mine at .016, and I got my empennage kit in January, so it
sounds like the replacement rudders are the same as the ones they're
shipping with the current kits.
- Jeff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: stick/rudder lock |
> How about running a bungee from the stick to one of the rudder pedals?
>
> It seems like it should work.
>
When I first took Scooter to the airport, I thought of many ways of doing
it. I finally decided that using the seat belt around the stick was
perfect. I have foam rubber grips for bicycles on my sticks; so, there is
plenty of grabbing ability in them. I just wrap the belt around the grip
and nudge it up a little. I've never had the belt fall off of the stick,
even in really bad wings.
As for the rudder, I took a piece of 2"X2" (I think) scrap angle stock, cut
it narrow enough to fit from the rudder lock to the rudder stop. I drilled
a hole through the flat portion of the angle and the stop. I drilled
through the verticle portion and the rudder horn. A couple of 1", or less,
AN3 bolts put me in business. It's a solid lock that takes just seconds to
remove and install. I tighten the AN365 nuts finger tight so I can remove
them with my fingers. Neither has come off from movement, yet. Actually,
one could make one from 1/16" stock and would be just fine. It doesn't take
that much to hold one in place.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net (Chris Brooks) |
| Subject: | Re: Workshop to paint shed conversion |
I framed a temporary wall in one bay of my garage and lined the walls,
ceiling, and floor with plastic sheeting purchased in 10X100 foot rolls.
I have 3-3tube 8ft fluorescent lights on the ceiling (9 tubes total)
and an 8ft 2-tube light mounted horizontally on each side wall. You
can't have too much light and sometimes I'd use a shop light to get a
better look. No matter how bright it looks in there that will change
when the paint starts flying.
At one end of the booth I mounted 6 pleated furnace filters to filter
the incoming air. The more filters you use the less restriction, and
Your plastic won't try to suck in as bad or pull as much dirt in around
it. Don't tape the floor plastic down or it will lift, and you may have
to wet it with some water to keep your shoes from sticking.
At the other end I built a large box from waferboard. Inside it is a
3000 CFM squirrel cage blower. At the back of the box is a 25 foot 12"
flexible furnace duct that I drag outside.
The opening of the box holds 2 -25X25 fiberglass furnace filters side by
side (pleated filters would plug up with paint too fast at the exit). I
started out using the exit filters 2 deep (4filters) but after some
experimentation switched to 3 filters deep (6filters). On a related
note, Clay Magic will remove Acrylic Urethane overspray from your wifes
pearl red Eldorado. You want to pull your exit air low because the
Overspray settles. Some people use box fans but I couldn't get the
airflow I desired with them.
You'll need a table, shelf or something in the booth to set your
stuff on so you don't have to run outside to refill your gun.
If you haven't bought a paint gun yet consider a gravity feed that can
use cup liners. They will spray upside down.
I use a Neoterik supplied air hood respirator. It's a pain fighting with
the hose but it beats breathing paint.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling rivets |
Rob,
I developed the same technique you described also. It is the best way to
remove a bent or miss-bucked rivet. I became an expert at drilling out rivets
when I started my project! In fact I think I drilled out more rivets than I
kept. The problem with drilling out rivets is that the hole has been enlarged
by
the rivet shank expanding against it. Each time you put a new rivet in the
same hole the hole gets bigger, even if you drill it out perfectly. I think as
your riveting skill improves, you'll find that you won't have to use the
skill you developed at drilling out the rivets! Just my $.02 worth.
Dan
RV-7A N766DH (almost done)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "vansrv4grvmj" <vansrv4grvmj(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-7 Rudder Question |
Hi Dan,
the new rudder has the 16 thou skins. Follow instructions carefully for the
trailing edge and you'll end up with a perfectly straight trailing edge. You
can also cheat a little and use a lenght of steel angle, drill through every
hole through the angle, and partially set the rivets in between.
Marcel
RV7 ~71481
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com> |
rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com
| Subject: | Making your own ELT antenna |
I'd like to make a custom ELT antenna to fit under my VS. The King antenna
is too long so instead of cutting it down I thought I'd save it for my UHF
comm needs later on.
I saw an example of a copper strip bonded to the inside of the empennage
fairing and somehow made to work with the supplied ELT antenna cable. I
don't know how he supported the BNC connector but would rather avoid doing
it that way alltogether.
I searched through ACS online and even wrote them an email asking for some
lengths of possible pre-made ELT replacement antennas and received no reply.
It's been a few days so I don't think that's going anywhere.
So why not just make one myself too out of soft SS like the stock antenna?
As I looked into it I even considered using the telescoping antenna which
comes with the ELT since it also already had a BNC adapter on the bottom but
that would mean modifiying the base of the antenna to be mountable to the
mini-bulkhead just in front of the Horisontal Stab. The telescoping antenna
isn't meant for that. I could try to mount it using clamps to keep it in
place and away from touching anything but would rather not.
Anyone have a web site showing a solution to this or otherwise have a simple
solution idea? It's duplicating the threaded base of the antenna which I
can't seem to find a supply for.
thanks in advance,
lucky
MSN Toolbar provides one-click access to Hotmail from any Web page FREE
download! http://clk.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200413ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-7 Rudder Question |
In a message dated 3/20/04 8:26:59 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
vansrv4grvmj(at)btinternet.com writes:
>
>
> Hi Dan,
>
> the new rudder has the 16 thou skins. Follow instructions carefully for the
> trailing edge and you'll end up with a perfectly straight trailing edge. You
> can also cheat a little and use a lenght of steel angle, drill through every
> hole through the angle, and partially set the rivets in between.
>
> Marcel
> RV7 ~71481
>
Marcel,
Could you please clarify the last sentence? I understand that I should
partially set all the rivets and check the straightness. I was going to use
Proseal and perhaps a piece of hardwood for a straight edge with Clecos through
the
trailing edge into the hardwood. Then wait a few days for the Proseal to set,
then rivet. I have also heard of alternating the direction of rivets to
avoid warping the trailing edge. That makes sense.
Thanks for the help,
Dan RV-7A (second rudder)
N766DH (almost done)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: stick/rudder lock |
Jeff,
Since the rudder is cable operated, you have to push on the pedals to
lock the rudder not pull.
Dave
Jeff Dowling wrote:
>
>How about running a bungee from the stick to one of the rudder pedals?
>
>It seems like it should work.
>
>Jeff Dowling
>RV-6A, N915JD
>58 hours
>Chicago/Louisville
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Jason Sneed" <n242ds(at)cox.net>
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: stick/rudder lock
>
>
>
>
>>
>>I use a bungee with clips on both ends run it around the stick to hold
>>a full aft-right position. Bought a container of bungees from home depo
>>for $4. I clip to the back of the seat or anywhere I see fit.
>>
>>JS
>>
>>
>>On Mar 18, 2004, at 10:37 AM, Ross Mickey wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>This works for the elevators but what about the rudder?
>>>
>>>Ross
>>>N9PT
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>For .49 cents, get a new, white PVC elbow from the hardware
>>>>store and put a piece of old safety belt webbing on one end.
>>>>A 16 to 18 inch piece of webbing (Loews and Home Depo also
>>>>has this webbing) screwed with some washers to one end of the
>>>>elbow is all it takes. Slip the other end of the elbow ever
>>>>the passenger stick (top) and loop the real aircraft
>>>>passenger safety belt thru the elbow belt webbing, snug the
>>>>real safety belt (after latching). (Takes less time to do
>>>>this then it took to read this
>>>>blather.....) FWIW I found some orange webbing and used SS
>>>>#10 screws.....looks good, weighs nothing, costs nothing and works.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>_-
>>>======================================================================
>>>_-
>>>======================================================================
>>>_-
>>>======================================================================
>>>_-
>>>======================================================================
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>Jason Sneed
>>Commercial Lending Officer
>>First National Bank and Trust
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: stick/rudder lock |
I think Wheeler had a great point about not putting a lock on flight
controls that could not be removed from the cockpit.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: stick/rudder lock
>
>
> > How about running a bungee from the stick to one of the rudder pedals?
> >
> > It seems like it should work.
> >
>
> When I first took Scooter to the airport, I thought of many ways of doing
> it. I finally decided that using the seat belt around the stick was
> perfect. I have foam rubber grips for bicycles on my sticks; so, there is
> plenty of grabbing ability in them. I just wrap the belt around the grip
> and nudge it up a little. I've never had the belt fall off of the stick,
> even in really bad wings.
>
> As for the rudder, I took a piece of 2"X2" (I think) scrap angle stock,
cut
> it narrow enough to fit from the rudder lock to the rudder stop. I
drilled
> a hole through the flat portion of the angle and the stop. I drilled
> through the verticle portion and the rudder horn. A couple of 1", or
less,
> AN3 bolts put me in business. It's a solid lock that takes just seconds
to
> remove and install. I tighten the AN365 nuts finger tight so I can remove
> them with my fingers. Neither has come off from movement, yet. Actually,
> one could make one from 1/16" stock and would be just fine. It doesn't
take
> that much to hold one in place.
>
> Jim
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Making your own ELT antenna |
Lucky,
I have done some testing on the ELT antenna under the fiberglass fuselage
empennage fairing, and have found that that is a really poor place for an ELT
antenna. Antennas are greatly affected by metal objects near them. Of course,
it will work to some extent, but your range will be severely compromised. No
one wants to put an antenna out in the 200 MPH breeze, but that is the best
place for them -- electrically. Compromises must be made in lots of cases. I
have been a ham radio operator for over 40 years and have tried lots of
antennas, and have a pretty good feel for what works and what doesn't. I hate
to
think of myself as an authority on the subject, though. I am hoping to get some
agreement from those on the List who are more expert than I am. As they say:
IMHO.
Dan K9WEK
RV-7A (almost done)
>
>
> I'd like to make a custom ELT antenna to fit under my VS. The King antenna
> is too long so instead of cutting it down I thought I'd save it for my UHF
> comm needs later on.
>
> I saw an example of a copper strip bonded to the inside of the empennage
> fairing and somehow made to work with the supplied ELT antenna cable. I
> don't know how he supported the BNC connector but would rather avoid doing
> it that way alltogether.
>
> I searched through ACS online and even wrote them an email asking for some
> lengths of possible pre-made ELT replacement antennas and received no reply.
>
> It's been a few days so I don't think that's going anywhere.
>
> So why not just make one myself too out of soft SS like the stock antenna?
> As I looked into it I even considered using the telescoping antenna which
> comes with the ELT since it also already had a BNC adapter on the bottom but
>
> that would mean modifiying the base of the antenna to be mountable to the
> mini-bulkhead just in front of the Horisontal Stab. The telescoping antenna
>
> isn't meant for that. I could try to mount it using clamps to keep it in
> place and away from touching anything but would rather not.
>
> Anyone have a web site showing a solution to this or otherwise have a simple
>
> solution idea? It's duplicating the threaded base of the antenna which I
> can't seem to find a supply for.
>
> thanks in advance,
> lucky
>
> MSN Toolbar provides one-click access to Hotmail from any Web page FREE
> download! http://clk.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200413ave/direct/01/
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Trainnut01(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-7 Rudder Question |
Dan
I drilled my rudder trailing edge to a 2x6. Then, when I squeezed the rivets,
I started from the middle and worked toward the top and bottom simultaneously
while alternating the direction of rivet insertion. The trailing edge is
perfectly straight and no sealer was used. I ran this by Van's after the fact and
they approve.
Carroll
RV-7A Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-7 Rudder Question |
Carroll,
Thanks for the advice. I may forgo the Proseal, or maybe put on a real thin
layer and rivet immediately so it can't cause problems.
Dan
RV-7A (almost done)
In a message dated 3/20/04 10:50:13 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
Trainnut01(at)aol.com writes:
>
>
> Dan
> I drilled my rudder trailing edge to a 2x6. Then, when I squeezed the
> rivets,
> I started from the middle and worked toward the top and bottom
> simultaneously
> while alternating the direction of rivet insertion. The trailing edge is
> perfectly straight and no sealer was used. I ran this by Van's after the
> fact and
> they approve.
> Carroll
> RV-7A Wings
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Making your own ELT antenna |
Lucky,
I agree. I have an IO-360 and a Hartzell up front too. I'm afraid it may
take more than an ELT to hold the tail down! Anyway, I didn't want to start a
fight either.
To answer your original question, use a piece of copper foil tape about 22
1/4 inches long taped or glued to the fiberglass as far as you can get it from
any aluminum. Actually, you could use a copper wire epoxied to the fairing as
well. Insulation on the wire doesn't matter. Feed it with 50 ohm coax (RG-58
from Radio Shack). Solder the center conductor to the end of the foil or
wire and ground the braid with the shortest connection possible to the airframe.
This will work as well as anything mounted in the tail. All this is assuming
that you want it in the fuselage to horizontal and vertical stab fiberglass
fairing.
Regards,
Dan
RV-7A (almost done)
I have zero trust in the ELT. I am not counting on it to help me out. For
>
> me, it has more value as a counterweight to my angle valve engine. I have
> another portable yaesu titanium cased triband hand held and my cell phone
> which I
> have a LOT more faith in to help me should the need arise. This discussion
> could drag out and end up in quite a long diatribe and flame war and I'm not
>
> personally interested in hearing from any of it.
>
> I think ELTs should be a personal choice. End of discussion for me.
>
> lucky
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Making your own ELT antenna |
CORRECTION. 23.11 inches is the theoretical length of a 1/4 wave antenna at
121.5 MHz.
In a message dated 3/20/04 11:36:01 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
Hopperdhh(at)aol.com writes:
>
> Lucky,
>
> I agree. I have an IO-360 and a Hartzell up front too. I'm afraid it may
> take more than an ELT to hold the tail down! Anyway, I didn't want to start
> a
> fight either.
>
> To answer your original question, use a piece of copper foil tape about 22
> 1/4 inches long taped or glued to the fiberglass as far as you can get it
> from
> any aluminum. Actually, you could use a copper wire epoxied to the fairing
> as
> well. Insulation on the wire doesn't matter. Feed it with 50 ohm coax
> (RG-58
> from Radio Shack). Solder the center conductor to the end of the foil or
> wire and ground the braid with the shortest connection possible to the
> airframe.
> This will work as well as anything mounted in the tail. All this is
> assuming
> that you want it in the fuselage to horizontal and vertical stab fiberglass
> fairing.
>
> Regards,
> Dan
> RV-7A (almost done)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robin Wessel" <Robin.Wessel(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Garmin 296 color GPS |
Attention gadget geeks-
Got an e-mail from Pacific Coast Avionics previewing the new Garmin 296,
a color version of the 196.
price: $1,699
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <groves(at)epix.net> |
Hello everyone,
I just fit up my elevators today and don't know if I have a problem or not. I
clamped my elevators in trail just as the manual says, but the elevator horns
don't match up perfect. The left elevator horn is slightly lower and the horns
are a little out of line fore and aft, I can line everything up by using my
hands and slightly moving the horns. Is this normal or are my elevators a little
out of wack. Any advice would be greatly appreciated
Thanks
Kirk RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator horns? |
Par for the course. Mine were like that, too. Drill 'em where they are,
with the elevators clamped in trail (use a digital protractor if you're
anal), and it'll all work out fine. 8-)
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <groves(at)epix.net>
Subject: RV-List: Elevator horns?
>
> Hello everyone,
> I just fit up my elevators today and don't know if I have a problem or
not. I clamped my elevators in trail just as the manual says, but the
elevator horns don't match up perfect. The left elevator horn is slightly
lower and the horns are a little out of line fore and aft, I can line
everything up by using my hands and slightly moving the horns. Is this
normal or are my elevators a little out of wack. Any advice would be greatly
appreciated
> Thanks
> Kirk RV-8
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Altrak/Digitrak servo solution |
OK,
I have the Altrak and Digitrak autopilots. I have the same concerns
regarding bolt safety as other listers. My servos are the same for both units.
Here's my solution -- for piece of mind:
Drill out the threaded mounting holes to accommodate an AN3-12 (or 13) bolt.
That would be a no. 12 or 3/16" drill.
Mount the servo using these bolts, a washer on the motor side (this
captivates the socket head screw), and a fiber lock nut. This also safeties the
mounting bolts.
This is what I'm going to do. It may not be wise regarding TruTrak warrantee
issues, but what the hay, it's my butt.
Bob Trumpfheller
http://users.aol.com/n67bt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator horns? |
>
> Hello everyone,
> I just fit up my elevators today and don't know if I have a problem or
not. I clamped my elevators in trail just as the manual says, but the
elevator horns don't match up perfect. The left elevator horn is slightly
lower and the horns are a little out of line fore and aft, I can line
everything up by using my hands and slightly moving the horns. Is this
normal or are my elevators a little out of wack. Any advice would be greatly
appreciated
> Thanks
> Kirk RV-8
Very common on these airplanes. Had the same issue on my RV-4. I ended up
matching the elevator horns fairly close (they are off slightly). The
trailing edge of my elevators are off slightly also (probably 3/16").
Airplane flies perfect.
Doug Weiler
RV-4, 105 hours, rebuilding new canopy and havin' fun!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Francis Malczynski" <ebbfmm(at)yahoo.com> |
While on a long cross country, the only mechanical problem we experienced
was a screw falling out of our vans Pedestal Mount Northern Hemisphere
compass, Part Number = IF CM-24L. This is the screw that is behind the flip
up tab that holds the light bulb in place and is used to secure the compass
bezel to the compass. Can anyone tell me what size this screw is so I can
try and find a replacement? Needless to say Ive searched all over the
inside of the plane to find the original, but no luckThanks
Fran Malczynski
RV-6 N594EF
Olcott, NY
ebbfmm(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Allen Fulmer" <afulmer(at)charter.net> |
Just did mine tonight and noticed the same "problem". Don't think it
matters when you consider the geometry of the setup.
Allen Fulmer
Empennage almost finished!
N808AF reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Saffold" <michaelsaffold(at)hotmail.com> |
I know that lots of people on the list are deciding which engine to go with. Whether
it's a Lycoming or one of the popular auto conversions, it seams to me that
to make the best decision we need to consider four factors: Safety, Weight,
Power, Cost and Ease of Installation. Safety and Ease of Installation are subjective
areas. The other three are (or should be) easily quantified.
I would like to put together an apples to apples comparison of some of the major
engine options. This could then be used as a reference to more intelligently
discuss the options and could be a good yard stick to judge other engine packages
when they come on the market.
Weight can be difficult to get nailed down. We have to decide if we are talking
about FWF weight, or just the engine alone. A "basic or average" FWF weight may
be the best comparison because comparing engine only weights between auto engines
and airplane engines is misleading. Auto engines require a prop reduction
unit, radiators and liquid at approx 8lbs/gal while airplane engines do not.
A while back someone posted the weights for all the common Lycoming engines.
The weights listed included:
carburetor or fuel injection
magnetos
spark plugs, ignition harness
inter cylinder baffles
starter
generator or alternator with mounting brackets
For a fair comparison an auto engine should include:
carburetor or fuel injection
ignition system
spark plugs, ignition harness
starter
alternator with mounting brackets
prop reduction unit
coolant weight
cooling system (radiators, hoses)
Does everyone agree that this is basically FWF weight? Is there something missing?
Can the engine mount and exhaust system be removed from the equation because
they would be about the same for any system?
I'm trying to come up with a standard for comparison, even if it's not actually
the true FWF weight. Maybe we should call it the "RV List Comparison Weight"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob U." <rv3(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engines again |
Michael Saffold wrote:
>
>I know that lots of people on the list are deciding which engine to go with. Whether
it's a Lycoming or one of the popular auto conversions, it seams to me
that to make the best decision we need to consider four factors: Safety, Weight,
Power, Cost and Ease of Installation. Safety and Ease of Installation are subjective
areas. The other three are (or should be) easily quantified.
>
Dunno what "lots" is, but....
For me, with more than 50 years of flight --
It's more about CERTIFIED RELIABILITY then ever before.
Not to mention being INSURABLE....
preferably, at LOW COST.
YMMV.
Lycoming Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
>
> Just did mine tonight and noticed the same "problem". Don't
> think it matters when you consider the geometry of the setup.
>
Just be sure to not put any loads on them to "bring" them back to
alignment. When you drill the hole(s) for the bearing and pushrod, make
sure that the elevators are both in trail, and the horns will have to be
wherever they end up. Also, make sure that there aren't lateral loads -
use washers as appropriate.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 445 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <groves(at)epix.net> |
Thanks to all who replied, This list sure is great!!!,
after a little adjusting of the rod end bearings the horns are only slightly off
and from what I hear thats OK!. Sorry to bug you guys with silly questions,
but I sure do appreciate it!
Have a great day
Kirk 81925
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
I used a .025 shim under each weldment and they lined up perfectly.
-
Larry Bowen, RV-8 FWF
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dan Checkoway [mailto:dan(at)rvproject.com]
> Sent: Saturday, March 20, 2004 7:40 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Elevator horns?
>
>
>
> Par for the course. Mine were like that, too. Drill 'em
> where they are, with the elevators clamped in trail (use a
> digital protractor if you're anal), and it'll all work out fine. 8-)
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <groves(at)epix.net>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Elevator horns?
>
>
> >
> > Hello everyone,
> > I just fit up my elevators today and don't know if I have
> a problem
> > or
> not. I clamped my elevators in trail just as the manual says,
> but the elevator horns don't match up perfect. The left
> elevator horn is slightly lower and the horns are a little
> out of line fore and aft, I can line everything up by using
> my hands and slightly moving the horns. Is this normal or are
> my elevators a little out of wack. Any advice would be
> greatly appreciated
> > Thanks
> > Kirk RV-8
> >
> >
>
>
> ===========
> Matronics Forums.
> ===========
> ===========
> ===========
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
Mike,
You probably folded this under "safety" but one thing you might consider is
"reliability".
Of course this is not easy to get at either. As a proxy you could start with
TBO as that is a timeframe that the supplier **currently** thinks the engine
will operate safely.
Another measure of this could be MTBF. The problem then would be getting
some actual failure data.
So that this is not viewed as one type of engine vs another ... take the
scenario where someone produces a Lycoming clone that is lighter, produces
more power for the weight and a specific amount of fuel, and comes as a
*complete* firewall forward offering, many would want to jump on it. But if
we found that the crankshaft broke within 50 hours on the first 5 that were
installed, we might think otherwise.
Just more food for thought.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Michael Saffold
> Sent: Sunday, March 21, 2004 3:18 AM
> To: RV List
> Subject: RV-List: Engines again
>
>
>
>
> I know that lots of people on the list are deciding which engine
> to go with. Whether it's a Lycoming or one of the popular auto
> conversions, it seams to me that to make the best decision we
> need to consider four factors: Safety, Weight, Power, Cost and
> Ease of Installation. Safety and Ease of Installation are
> subjective areas. The other three are (or should be) easily quantified.
>
[snip]
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finn.lassen(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engines again |
The idea comparison would include *everything* FWF.
After all, that is what determines empty weight of the airplane and
climb performance, as far as the power plant is concerned.
With an operational installation (oil and coolant topped off),
remove the gear legs,
unbolt the engine mount from the firewall (and any parts mounted to it)
and weigh it and the two cowling halfs.
Nuts, bolts, brackets, baffels, cowling fiberglass work, engine mount
pieces, exhaust system, intake system - it all adds up. At a wild guess
I would say you could see as much as 50 pounds difference in two
automotive installations with the same basic engine.
By all means specify how much idividual parts weight:
prop
spinner w/hardware
prop nuts/bolts, any prop extention
starter
alternator
PSRU (including all hardware and oil)
etc.
Of course, who would want to do the above? But that would give the
ideal comparison.
Finn
RV-3 Mazda 13B Rotary 435 hours.
Michael Saffold wrote:
>Does everyone agree that this is basically FWF weight? Is there something missing?
Can the engine mount and exhaust system be removed from the equation because
they would be about the same for any system?
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon Robertson" <grobertson(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | RV8 elevator horns |
CAUTION CAUTION... Make sure that when you drill them, there is enough
clearance around the hole on both elevator horns. I did not do this, just
drilled away from one side. I was VERY LUCKY to have just enough clearance
on the other side. I did not check it properly in advance.
Gordon Robertson
RV8 ready for engine
>Par for the course. Mine were like that, too. Drill 'em where they are,
>with the elevators clamped in trail (use a digital protractor if you're
>anal), and it'll all work out fine. 8-)
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <groves(at)epix.net>
Subject: RV-List: Elevator horns?
>
> Hello everyone,
> I just fit up my elevators today and don't know if I have a problem or
not. I clamped my elevators in trail just as the manual says, but the
elevator horns don't match up perfect. The left elevator horn is slightly
lower and the horns are a little out of line fore and aft, I can line
everything up by using my hands and slightly moving the horns. Is this
normal or are my elevators a little out of wack. Any advice would be greatly
appreciated
> Thanks
> Kirk RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
If you think countersinking them will be hard, wait
until you try to rivet them! May want to practice
that before you drill. I couldn't and Van's said
to just use a nut and washer. Works fine, but
then you need to do a little cutout on the floors
to leave space for those plastic holders. That
worked great for me.
Mickey
>The discussion on countersinking was timely. I'm trying to fit the flap brace/flap
using the temp rivet method that Dan Checkoway wrote up.
>
>The issue I have is countersinking the flap brace. It's basically impossible to
countersink this without enlarging the holes some. Yes the thickness is .040,
but the countersink has to be deep enough for a dimpled skin not just a rivet.
It seems these rivets would experience some significant shear load the way
the brace is installed.
>
>It seems I would have had the same problem when doing the flap side of the hinge/flap
spar. I just don't recall it. Am I making to big a deal of this?
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <edbundy(at)velocitus.net> |
| Subject: | stick/rudder lock |
I'm not sure I understand the concern here. Yes, taking off with locked
controls would be disastrous, but ordinary care and standard operating
procedures give two separate times to find this out before flight.
Personally, I use a small doohickey that locks the outboard portion of the
aileron to the wingtip, another that locks the elevator in trail with the
stab, and a piece of piano wire to lock the rudder horn to the V stab. They
are all very light, small, simple, and have a bright orange streamer hanging
from them. They also keep gust loads off of the control surfaces that might
occur using the seatbelt method.
As for it being a safety of flight issue, the streamers are very hard to
miss, and even without any, wouldn't a control lock show up during even the
briefest preflight? If a preflight isn't done, there are a lot of other
things that may create problems for the flight.
Then there's the pre-takeoff checklist - even the most basic ones have
"flight controls free and correct".
I'm not trying to be preachy, but if one fails to move the control surfaces
during the preflight, and neglects to wiggle the stick and rudder before
pouring on the coal, some other unchecked gremlin will probably get them
even if they do use cockpit correctable control locks. Plus, I don't see
how it would even be possible to taxi for takeoff without using the rudder.
Sorry for the rant, I guess I really just wanted to point out the importance
of before-start, and pre-flight checklists.
Ed Bundy - Eagle, Idaho
RV6A 600+ hours
> I think Wheeler had a great point about not putting a lock on flight
> controls that could not be removed from the cockpit.
> > As for the rudder, I took a piece of 2"X2" (I think) scrap angle stock,
> cut
> > it narrow enough to fit from the rudder lock to the rudder stop. I
> drilled
>
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Saffold" <michaelsaffold(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engines again |
Finn Lassen wrote:
"The idea comparison would include *everything* FWF.
After all, that is what determines empty weight of the airplane and
climb performance, as far as the power plant is concerned.
With an operational installation (oil and coolant topped off),
remove the gear legs, unbolt the engine mount from the firewall (and any parts
mounted to it) and weigh it and the two cowling halves.
Nuts, bolts, brackets, baffles, cowling fiberglass work, engine mount
pieces, exhaust system, intake system - it all adds up. At a wild guess
I would say you could see as much as 50 pounds difference in two
automotive installations with the same basic engine."
Finn, you are undoubtedly correct. The most accurate comparison would include everything.
However as you also point out, most people will not do all that.
To get some numbers for comparison there needs to be a compromise between impossible
to obtain exact numbers and easy to get gross generalizations. We have
the weights from Lycoming for their engines with given components, lets compare
the weights of the other options with the equivalent components. Do you know
the weight of your 13B installation with the following?
fuel injection
ignition system
spark plugs, ignition harness
starter
alternator with mounting brackets
prop reduction unit
coolant & cooling system
Again since we have these figures from Lycoming we can start there as a benchmark.
We can then get the same numbers for average subaru, rotary, and even V8 LS-1
installations. Once we have a "reasonably" close idea of weight and power
we can talk more about cost benefit of a given choice.
I would like to stay away from the subjective areas of safety & reliability. We
are all building or thinking about building our own aircraft. I am sure we all
used our own criteria and made a decision about the safety and reliability of
doing that. The safest most reliable transportation is probably walking. On
the other hand people have soared thousands of feet into the air by strapping
weather balloons to lawn chairs and descended by shooting them one by one with
a pellet gun. Discussions about reliability and safety are interesting but I
would like to get some weight, power, and cost numbers together first.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Engine monitoring |
At 09:53 AM 3/18/2004, you wrote:
>
>The problem with that approach is that you still need to see the raw
>data to confirm that a true alarm condition exists. What you want can be
>done with 'idiot lights'.
Thanks, Bruce, but what I want can't be done with idiot lights. I do have
one for oil pressure, right next to the gauge. Now all I need for my idiot
light is a tiny computer between it and the oil pressure sender. This
little computer would watch the oil pressure and turn on the light if the
pressure began an undesirable trend. Of course, the computer would also
have to know engine RPM and probably manifold vacuum. I guess I would call
it a 'brainy light'.
Software people used to have a name for raw data. Sometimes they actually
called it raw data but they also called it 'garbage in'. After filtering
the raw input for anomalies (flyers) the input is ready for
processing. Picture a little person inside the box, or better still, a
copilot! The copilot watches the engine instruments but instead of telling
you, the pilot, the reading he gets from each instrument as he scans them
but speaks only when he sees something troublesome. "Hey, pilot, the EGT
for number five is over 1400!" Maybe he just tells you to enrich mixture
slightly. If he reaches out and adjusts the mixture do we then have FADEC?
The problem with the existing system is that the information you need as
pilot in command comes too late. The gauge is timely enough but the PIC is
busy dealing with weather, turbulence, charts or looking out the window. I
had a salty old instructor once who insisted that being able to fly on
instruments had to be so automatic that you could handle what he once had
to. He was setting up for approach in heavy rain and turbulence when the
pax next to him dropped his cigarette and one in back began puking while
another screamed. Could we expect him to be watching engine instruments??
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: stick/rudder lock |
Hi Ed
At least one plane every year for as long as I can remember will taxi
out with at least one streamer hanging off of the airplane. Lucky for
them, the ground crews will catch it before they actaully reach the
treshhold. I'd say the pitot cover seems to be the worst offender here.
Point is, it may never happen to you, but some unlucky sod is going to
do it, for whatever reason, just like people take of on empty fueltanks,
tanks switched off, etc.
One does not have to actually take off, rolling into somebody/something
because the rudder did not work is bad enough.
Anything one can do to make it more obvious, is an accident prevented.
Ed Bundy wrote:
>
> I'm not sure I understand the concern here. Yes, taking off with locked
> controls would be disastrous, but ordinary care and standard operating
> procedures give two separate times to find this out before flight.
>
> Personally, I use a small doohickey that locks the outboard portion of the
> aileron to the wingtip, another that locks the elevator in trail with the
> stab, and a piece of piano wire to lock the rudder horn to the V stab. They
> are all very light, small, simple, and have a bright orange streamer hanging
> from them. They also keep gust loads off of the control surfaces that might
> occur using the seatbelt method.
>
> As for it being a safety of flight issue, the streamers are very hard to
> miss, and even without any, wouldn't a control lock show up during even the
> briefest preflight? If a preflight isn't done, there are a lot of other
> things that may create problems for the flight.
>
> Then there's the pre-takeoff checklist - even the most basic ones have
> "flight controls free and correct".
>
> I'm not trying to be preachy, but if one fails to move the control surfaces
> during the preflight, and neglects to wiggle the stick and rudder before
> pouring on the coal, some other unchecked gremlin will probably get them
> even if they do use cockpit correctable control locks. Plus, I don't see
> how it would even be possible to taxi for takeoff without using the rudder.
>
> Sorry for the rant, I guess I really just wanted to point out the importance
> of before-start, and pre-flight checklists.
>
> Ed Bundy - Eagle, Idaho
> RV6A 600+ hours
>
>
>
>>I think Wheeler had a great point about not putting a lock on flight
>>controls that could not be removed from the cockpit.
>
>
>>>As for the rudder, I took a piece of 2"X2" (I think) scrap angle stock,
>>
>>cut
>>
>>>it narrow enough to fit from the rudder lock to the rudder stop. I
>>
>>drilled
>>
>
> ---
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
| Subject: | Engine monitoring |
Oh, I know what you mean. The issue with trend monitors is that again,
you need to see the raw data to verify a true alarm condition. Most of
the engine analyzers have trend monitoring. Some have deviations from
norm alarms. I would prefer the later.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of kempthornes
Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine monitoring
At 09:53 AM 3/18/2004, you wrote:
>
>The problem with that approach is that you still need to see the raw
>data to confirm that a true alarm condition exists. What you want can
be
>done with 'idiot lights'.
Thanks, Bruce, but what I want can't be done with idiot lights. I do
have
one for oil pressure, right next to the gauge. Now all I need for my
idiot
light is a tiny computer between it and the oil pressure sender. This
little computer would watch the oil pressure and turn on the light if
the
pressure began an undesirable trend. Of course, the computer would also
have to know engine RPM and probably manifold vacuum. I guess I would
call
it a 'brainy light'.
Software people used to have a name for raw data. Sometimes they
actually
called it raw data but they also called it 'garbage in'. After
filtering
the raw input for anomalies (flyers) the input is ready for
processing. Picture a little person inside the box, or better still, a
copilot! The copilot watches the engine instruments but instead of
telling
you, the pilot, the reading he gets from each instrument as he scans
them
but speaks only when he sees something troublesome. "Hey, pilot, the
EGT
for number five is over 1400!" Maybe he just tells you to enrich
mixture
slightly. If he reaches out and adjusts the mixture do we then have
FADEC?
The problem with the existing system is that the information you need as
pilot in command comes too late. The gauge is timely enough but the PIC
is
busy dealing with weather, turbulence, charts or looking out the window.
I
had a salty old instructor once who insisted that being able to fly on
instruments had to be so automatic that you could handle what he once
had
to. He was setting up for approach in heavy rain and turbulence when
the
pax next to him dropped his cigarette and one in back began puking while
another screamed. Could we expect him to be watching engine
instruments??
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Engine monitoring |
At 11:35 AM 3/18/2004, you wrote:
>This doesn't answer your desire for less than $500, but check out Blue
>Mountain EFIS/one's approach. You don't see the engine instruments on the
>screen unless you want to, OR one of them goes outside of the range you have
>set for it. Then it pops up to alert you.
Very nifty indeed. I would love to have one but a little out of my league
at $15000 without probes!
What these systems are is a bright little monitor and a tiny computer -
with some input devices. The monitors and computers are already cheap to
make and the devices are dropping in price rapidly. As the price falls,
the demand will rise which will mean increased production and more units to
spread the cost of development over which will cause price to fall.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine monitoring |
At 10:56 AM 3/19/2004, you wrote:
>
>I thought about designing and selling a simple and cheap engine monitor,
>but the price growns rapidly if you don't want to answer endless
>questions for free
Finn, the costs you will incur once your monitor is in production will not
be the big issue. It is the development cost that makes new stuff expensive.
I once was part of a team of software engineers, all at more than $60K in
the '80s. We blew away a whole day on the logging in process and just how
it should work because that really concerned the lead engineer! I
estimated that the company spent over a million before they got a single
line of code but the fact is, it was money well spent!
Developing a simple little engine monitor ought to be much cheaper since
everything for it already exists.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "GMC" <gmcnutt(at)uniserve.com> |
A few days ago someone was looking for airport data for Canadian airports,
FYI the following web site has basic data on world-wide airports.
http://worldaerodata.com/countries/
George in Langley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Stupid canopy question |
I just got the gas struts installed on my tip-up canopy frame and
screwed the plexi in place and marveled at my 6A holding its canopy up.
A great sight. However, I discovered something unexpected when I closed
it. Once the canopy gets low enough so that the strut attachment point
drops below the level of the canopy hinge, the struts start forcing it
closed rather than holding it open.
So, the question is this: When you walk up to a closed plane and un-do
the latch, how do you raise the canopy? There's nothing on the outside
to grab hold of and the gas struts are doing their best to keep it
closed. What am I missing here?
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, Canopy.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Stupid canopy question |
The 7 has a little piece of angle that is riveted on near the back to open
the canopy. I'm sure the 6 has something similar.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Stupid canopy question
>
> I just got the gas struts installed on my tip-up canopy frame and
> screwed the plexi in place and marveled at my 6A holding its canopy up.
> A great sight. However, I discovered something unexpected when I closed
> it. Once the canopy gets low enough so that the strut attachment point
> drops below the level of the canopy hinge, the struts start forcing it
> closed rather than holding it open.
>
> So, the question is this: When you walk up to a closed plane and un-do
> the latch, how do you raise the canopy? There's nothing on the outside
> to grab hold of and the gas struts are doing their best to keep it
> closed. What am I missing here?
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A, Canopy.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harvey Sigmon" <rv6hes(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Stupid canopy question |
On the tip up canopies, sometimes you will find a tab at the center aft
edge to raise the canopy straight up. On my last RV-6 I placed a tab at the
aft lower end of the canopy skirt on both sides of the canopy for easy
access. I also installed the tabs for my sliding canopy on my current 6A.
Harvey Sigmon RV-6A Flying
----- Original Message -----
From: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Stupid canopy question
>
> The 7 has a little piece of angle that is riveted on near the back to
open
> the canopy. I'm sure the 6 has something similar.
>
> Darwin N. Barrie
> Chandler AZ
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314(at)earthlink.net>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Stupid canopy question
>
>
> >
> > I just got the gas struts installed on my tip-up canopy frame and
> > screwed the plexi in place and marveled at my 6A holding its canopy up.
> > A great sight. However, I discovered something unexpected when I closed
> > it. Once the canopy gets low enough so that the strut attachment point
> > drops below the level of the canopy hinge, the struts start forcing it
> > closed rather than holding it open.
> >
> > So, the question is this: When you walk up to a closed plane and un-do
> > the latch, how do you raise the canopy? There's nothing on the outside
> > to grab hold of and the gas struts are doing their best to keep it
> > closed. What am I missing here?
> > --
> > Tom Sargent, RV-6A, Canopy.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)warpdriveonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stupid canopy question |
>
>
> So, the question is this: When you walk up to a closed plane and un-do
> the latch, how do you raise the canopy? There's nothing on the outside
> to grab hold of and the gas struts are doing their best to keep it
> closed. What am I missing here?
> --
I think most everyone fabricates a simple L shaped bracket to grab hold of.
It normally goes right at the rear of the left side of the canopy frame. I
guess Van's still doesn't tell all.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://n5lp.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tracy Crook" <lors01(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engines again / Weights |
OK I'll throw mine in. These are the figures for my currently flying configuration.
The 2004 Renesis rotary that I'm getting ready to install will weigh about
22 pounds less.
1989 vintage Mazda 13B rotary
with water pump & plugs - 180 lbs
carburetor or fuel injection - 13.5 lbs very crude manifold, throttle body,
injectors, fuel rails, fuel pumps (2)
ignition system - 6 lbs (coil/igniter modules)
spark plugs, ignition harness - Plugs included in "long block" weight
starter - 7.5 lbs
alternator with mounting brackets - 9.2 lbs.
prop reduction unit - 42 lbs
coolant weight - 12.7 lbs (7 qts 50/50 mix)
cooling system (radiators, hoses) - 15 lbs (includes oil cooler)
total - 285.9 lbs
Tracy Crook
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Stupid canopy question |
I used 1/2 x 1/2 x 1/16 angle stock about 2 inches long and drilled it for
the last 3 blind rivets that go into the canopy frame just in front of the rear
skirt on my slider. I would assume you could use the same dimensions for your
tip-up, but maybe not the same position.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (almost done) building my "spare rudder" right now
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tracy Crook" <lors01(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine monitoring |
At 10:56 AM 3/19/2004, you wrote:
>
>I thought about designing and selling a simple and cheap engine monitor,
>but the price growns rapidly if you don't want to answer endless
>questions for free
Finn, the costs you will incur once your monitor is in production will not
be the big issue. It is the development cost that makes new stuff expensive.
I once was part of a team of software engineers, all at more than $60K in
the '80s. We blew away a whole day on the logging in process and just how
it should work because that really concerned the lead engineer! I
estimated that the company spent over a million before they got a single
line of code but the fact is, it was money well spent!
Developing a simple little engine monitor ought to be much cheaper since
everything for it already exists.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
Ok, lets say you are incredibly successful and capture 33% of the RV market over
the past 20 years. That's about 1170 units. That million bucks blown before
the first line of code is written represents $854.70 per unit and you haven't
paid for any production costs yet. It also assumes you didn't starve to death
during those 20 years.
Yeah, I know, you could do it for well under a mil, but it ain't as easy as it
sounds.
Tracy Crook
(Lots of time & effort invested, way less than 1% engine monitor market penetration,
but having gobs of fun)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV List Fly-in Fish Fry |
| From: | smoothweasel(at)juno.com |
Hey Guys/Gals, we are planning a fly-in fish fry for anyone that wants
to come. All ya need ta do is fly in and eat. The strip is 2000ft. grass
and is located right on a fish farm here in east Mississippi. If you have
ever been in this area you have noticed the large amount of ponds here so
this is a great opportunity for you to try some
locally-raised-farm-grown-CATFISH!!!!! Invite your friends (and
enemies......... you don't have to have an RV) and come on down for some
great food.
Date: May 15
Location: approx. 10 east of Macon, MS
Please let me know off line if you plan to be there so we know how many
fish to catch!!!!! and I will give ya more specific directions. I
will try to send out another email closer to the fryin date.
Joel "Weasel" Graber
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Sisson," <sisson(at)consolidated.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV List Fly-in Fish Fry |
smoothweasel(at)juno.com wrote:
>
> Hey Guys/Gals, we are planning a fly-in fish fry for anyone that wants
> to come. All ya need ta do is fly in and eat. The strip is 2000ft. grass
> and is located right on a fish farm here in east Mississippi. If you have
> ever been in this area you have noticed the large amount of ponds here so
> this is a great opportunity for you to try some
> locally-raised-farm-grown-CATFISH!!!!! Invite your friends (and
> enemies......... you don't have to have an RV) and come on down for some
> great food.
>
> Date: May 15
>
> Location: approx. 10 east of Macon, MS
>
> Please let me know off line if you plan to be there so we know how many
> fish to catch!!!!! and I will give ya more specific directions. I
> will try to send out another email closer to the fryin date.
>
> Joel "Weasel" Graber
Yankee's too?
phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
| Subject: | Engine monitoring |
I remember talking to a fella once whose brother felt that the likes of
Insight and JPI were charging way too much for their engine monitors. He
felt that surely he could "build a better (cheaper) mousetrap and they
launched an effort to do so.
They gave it a valiant try bit I think they too discovered that it is in
fact difficult and the price needs to be closer to where it is today than
where we might wish it were.
This is not to say that we should endeavor to puch the envelope to develop
things that are better/faster/cheaper. Just an acknowledgement that
sometimes it is really tough.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tracy Crook
> Sent: Sunday, March 21, 2004 9:51 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine monitoring
>
>
> At 10:56 AM 3/19/2004, you wrote:
> >
> >I thought about designing and selling a simple and cheap engine monitor,
> >but the price growns rapidly if you don't want to answer endless
> >questions for free
>
> Finn, the costs you will incur once your monitor is in production
> will not
> be the big issue. It is the development cost that makes new
> stuff expensive.
> I once was part of a team of software engineers, all at more than $60K in
> the '80s. We blew away a whole day on the logging in process and
> just how
> it should work because that really concerned the lead engineer! I
> estimated that the company spent over a million before they got a single
> line of code but the fact is, it was money well spent!
>
> Developing a simple little engine monitor ought to be much cheaper since
> everything for it already exists.
>
>
> K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
>
> Ok, lets say you are incredibly successful and capture 33% of the
> RV market over the past 20 years. That's about 1170 units. That
> million bucks blown before the first line of code is written
> represents $854.70 per unit and you haven't paid for any
> production costs yet. It also assumes you didn't starve to death
> during those 20 years.
> Yeah, I know, you could do it for well under a mil, but it ain't
> as easy as it sounds.
> Tracy Crook
> (Lots of time & effort invested, way less than 1% engine monitor
> market penetration, but having gobs of fun)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren W Hurd <warren(at)ahyup.com> |
| Subject: | Edge Roller Wave |
I posted a photo at http://www.ahyup.com/Wrinkle/ of a wave I made in
the wing skin edge. The wheels of the Avery edge roller were not
perpendicular to the edge of the skin, thus stretching the metal and
making a wave. Are these kits so good that I could order a new skin and
drill out the holes without match drilling? I want to replace the
wrinkled skin.
Warren
http:ahyup.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <Fred.Stucklen(at)UTCFuelCells.com> |
Eric,
I'm running both an EL panel under the glare shield, and a digital dimmer.
I have no noise in the radios, even with the squelch open. My RV-6A is a
full IFR plane.
The key to no noise in the radios is proper placement of the EL Inverter,
and good wiring practices. The EL inverter should not be placed near the
radios. I have mine mounted on the right side if the tip-up canopy, far from
the radios.
The EL inverter ground should go to the airframe, where it's ground
currents will not be mixed in with the ground currents of radio power leads.
It's power lead should also be kept away from radio leads. Sometimes, as
small capacitor (.01 uF) is needed near the inverter, to keep noise currents
circulating near the inverter.
When using an EL panel with digital dimmers, you can sometimes get a beat
frequency flicker in the EL panel. (The beat frequency is the difference
between the inverter freq and the digital dimmer freq.) This can also be
mitigated by installing a 100Uf cat near the inverter, or by changing one of
the frequencies....
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV 155 Hrs
Re: RE: EL lighting
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: richard dudley
Eric,
I have installed EL lighting under my glareshield. Thuough I have not
yet flown I have tested it with my two navcoms also installed. With
squelch open, there is no noise from the EL. The power from the
inverter
is supposedly a 400 Hz square wave.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
-6A paint prep
Eric M. Jones wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones"
>
> Question for EL Lighting users---
>
>I have always presumed that inverters were electrically noisy and
thus EL
>lighting might lead to some interference.
>
>Does anyone have experience with this?
>
>Regards,
>Eric M. Jones
>www.PerihelionDesign.com
>113 Brentwood Drive
>Southbridge MA 01550-2705
>Phone (508) 764-2072
>Email: emjones(at)charter.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Trampas" <tstern(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Engine monitoring |
Well, let me speak from my first hand experience building an Engine Monitor.
First off most people just assume that all you need is the inputs and a
simple computer. Well there are other considerations you have to look at.
For example will the unit operate in Alaska at extremely low temperatures
and in Arizona at extremely high ones? OK so now you need industrial
temperature electronics, well that eliminates most all common off the shelf
hardware. Now start considering what happens when the guy wiring up the unit
accidentally connects 12V or 28V to one of your input pins. Or if even worse
he connects the P-lead to the oil pressure input. How about more basic
questions like what operating system do you use? For example if you use a
Windows box are you willing to wait for the system to boot up? What about
power supply, should it operate while cranking the engine? Should it operate
at 28V?
Once you got this questions considered think about how many you will sell.
Today there are about 1200 experimental aircraft registered each year. Thus
if you sell 10 units a month you have 10% of the market, which is not a lot
of sales but a large part of the market. Like Tracy said you will have a
significant amount of development expense in each unit thus the units will
not be cheap as the volumes will not be high. You also have competition out
there, so what are you going to do different than them to get the customers
to buy your product. My thoughts were that giving the user control over
what the unit would be of value to customers.
What I found is that a most people who want to do some special things, like
one guy wants to hook up a speed sensor to the wheel to measure take off
distances. Another guy wants to hook up weight sensors on the landing gears
and calculate weight and balance before each flight. Another guy wants to
have the ability to set cruise alarms that notify them if anything changes
more that 10% while at cruise. One guy even wants to monitor his Subaru's
injector on time to calculate fuel flow. Thus from talking to people what I
found was everybody wanted to do something a little different on their
plane. Thus I designed the Pulsar unit such that it can read almost any
sensor and then do any calculations the user wants on the sensor and display
the data. However the people who wanted to do this really wanted someone to
do it for them, for free.
My mistake was that I should have asked how much would you be willing to pay
to get the features you want, and would you be willing to do some work to
make it happen? So if you want a "trend monitoring" engine monitor, how
much would you pay for it and if you could do it by configuring a unit would
you be willing to do that configuring work? The Pulsar unit I am shipping
can do it, but it is not free and it will require work on your part.
Regards,
Trampas
www.sterntech.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com> |
Gentlemen,
I have an IO-360 with one Lightspeed EI and one Slick mag. The mag was
mounted to the engine by the builder and the cap with leads attached was in
a separate box. I looked at the cap this weekend and see a marking for the
no. 1 wire on the outside. However, I don't see how to identify the other
leads and I don't see any kind of mark that tells me the orientation of the
cap when placed onto the mag.
Can any of you gentlemen point me in the right direction?
Vince Welch
All the action. All the drama. Get NCAA hoops coverage at MSN Sports by
ESPN. http://msn.espn.go.com/index.html?partnersite=espn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: some questions from a new guy |
You are correct TW insurance rates tend to be 10% to 20% higher no matter
what type of aircraft you're talking about. That holds true for most of the
companies including the one who underwrites the VanGuard Program.
JT
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tedd McHenry" <tedd(at)vansairforce.org>
Subject: RE: RV-List: some questions from a new guy
On Fri, 19 Mar 2004, Scott Bilinski wrote:
> Nose draggers are cheaper to insure over tail draggers, period.
In the context, you seem to be suggesting that this fact indicates an RV
taildragger is more likely to be involved in a wreck than an RV nosedragger.
But I think you'll find that the actuarial data used isn't that
fine-grained.
If RV taildragger insurance is higher it's almost certainly because
taildragger
insurance is IN GENERAL higher, not because RV taildraggers, specifically,
represent a higher risk.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)QCBC.ORG> |
Don't think that the cap will go on but one way. Cap has three screws and
there a four leads.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Slick Mag
>
> Gentlemen,
>
> I have an IO-360 with one Lightspeed EI and one Slick mag. The mag was
> mounted to the engine by the builder and the cap with leads attached was
in
> a separate box. I looked at the cap this weekend and see a marking for
the
> no. 1 wire on the outside. However, I don't see how to identify the other
> leads and I don't see any kind of mark that tells me the orientation of
the
> cap when placed onto the mag.
>
> Can any of you gentlemen point me in the right direction?
>
> Vince Welch
>
> All the action. All the drama. Get NCAA hoops coverage at MSN Sports by
> ESPN. http://msn.espn.go.com/index.html?partnersite=espn
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov> |
| Subject: | Renesis (was: Engines again / Weights) |
>
>
>OK I'll throw mine in. These are the figures for my currently flying
>configuration. The 2004 Renesis rotary that I'm getting ready to install
>will weigh about 22 pounds less.
Very exciting news. Please keep us informed about your progress
with the Renesis engine.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RE: EL lighting |
I received my EL lighting tapes last week from Buy.com and thought some
Listers may be interested in the following information about them. To get free
shipping, I ordered 3 EL kits to get the total over $25. The red ones were
cheaper -- about $8.95, than the green ones, and I thought I may want red anyway,
so I ordered 2 reds and one green. The green EL tapes are brighter than the
red, and much more efficient (see below). And my 2 reds were different colors.
One was almost purple, and not near as bright as the other red. Also, all
three inverters were different. One was much smaller than the other two. The
dimensions of the larger ones are 1 3/4 by 1 by 15/16 high, not counting the
mounting ears. The smaller one is 1 1/16 by 11/16 by 13/16 high. The inverters
have 2 cables and connectors to drive 2 tapes, so maybe you can buy the tapes
separately.
The package has some specs on the inverter. The input is 12V and has a
connector which mates to a disk drive power cable in the computer. The output
is
90 VAC at 1 KHz. I measured the input current on one of the inverters driving
each strip as: green 28 mA, red 64 mA, and purple 32 mA. When driving no
strip at all the current was 15 mA. The current is less at lower voltage. This
limited testing shows that the green is much more efficient. The point is that
there is a lot of variation between the different colors. Of course, I don't
have enough strips to be sure that my data is typical of all the parts.
The width of the strip according to the package is 0.3 inches, but they
measured 0.4, 0.5 and 0.55 inches! The 0.55 inches was because of sloppy assembly,
the two outside clear tapes were offset from each other. The length is
(almost) 5 feet and can be cut off, but I don't know how you would connect to the
unused piece to use it again. At Delco we had some conductive epoxy which
would work, but I don't know where to get it now, and its probably expensive.
Does anyone know? Short pieces may come in handy to light instruments, switches,
etc.
I'm not unhappy with these EL lighting strips. I think I will make use of at
least one of them, and the price is great.
Regards,
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (Building my RV-9 rudder before the first flight, not that I intend on
doing spins!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris W <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm(at)cox.net> |
I was watching an automotive show the other day and they were talking
about compressors. They said one of the best ways to keep the noise
down was to install an inlet muffler, because that is where most of the
noise comes from. Has anyone here tried that? My old compressor
doesn't have anywhere to attach one, so I can't try it. If people have
good success with them, it will give me one more reason to upgrade my
dying 35+ year old compressor.
Chris W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 3/22/04 2:20:06 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
warren(at)ahyup.com writes:
>
>
> I posted a photo at http://www.ahyup.com/Wrinkle/ of a wave I made in
> the wing skin edge. The wheels of the Avery edge roller were not
> perpendicular to the edge of the skin, thus stretching the metal and
> making a wave. Are these kits so good that I could order a new skin and
> drill out the holes without match drilling? I want to replace the
> wrinkled skin.
>
> Warren
> http:ahyup.com
Warren,
They probably are. I understand that some people build the wings without
jigs now. Maybe Vans even recommends it, I don't know. BTW I couldn't make out
the wave for sure in your picture, probably because I didn't know exactly
where to look. If its the trailing edge, why would you roll that?
Instead of rolling edges, I found that I can taper the last 1/8 inch down to
about .015 and it looks rolled, but looks nicer, kind of like a scarf joint.
Just put the skin right at the edge of the work table and file away. It does
take a little time, but the results are worth it. I didn't do it on the wing,
but did it on the fuselage where the .032 skins end.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (almost done)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neil McLeod" <bedrock(at)theriver.com> |
In my experience they are that good.
Neil McLeod
Bisbee, AZ
RV7 QB FWF and finishing
-----Original Message-----
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Warren W Hurd
I posted a photo at http://www.ahyup.com/Wrinkle/ of a wave I made in
the wing skin edge. The wheels of the Avery edge roller were not
perpendicular to the edge of the skin, thus stretching the metal and
making a wave. Are these kits so good that I could order a new skin and
drill out the holes without match drilling? I want to replace the
wrinkled skin.
Warren
http:ahyup.com
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Trainnut01(at)aol.com |
Chris
I work with a company that installs air conditioning systems in street rods,
classic cars and other vehicles that were not equiped with compressors from
the manufacturer. From experience I can promise you the use of intake as well as
exhaust mufflers on A/C compressors has negligible if any benefit. We find
the noise in compressors usually has more to do with hoses contacting body
panels than anything else. Also the style of compressor has a major effect,
generally the more pistons the better. Most modern compressors have 5 to 9 cylinders
with some as many as fifteen. Your 35 year old compressor may only have two.
Contact me off list and I'll see if I can help.
Carroll
trainnut01(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Danielson" <johnd(at)wlcwyo.com> |
I had the same thing happen. After it was riveted it looked fine.
John L. Danielson
RV-6
-----Original Message-----
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Warren W Hurd
I posted a photo at http://www.ahyup.com/Wrinkle/ of a wave I made in
the wing skin edge. The wheels of the Avery edge roller were not
perpendicular to the edge of the skin, thus stretching the metal and
making a wave. Are these kits so good that I could order a new skin and
drill out the holes without match drilling? I want to replace the
wrinkled skin.
Warren
http:ahyup.com
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)QCBC.ORG> |
Yes BUT! Air conditioning compressor are a closed system. Air compressors
are open to the air and the intake can be muffled by fitting a aircleaner
and muffler unit. Getting your air from the outside leaves the noise
outside as well.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or sportpilot(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
| From: | <Trainnut01(at)aol.com> |
>
> Chris
> I work with a company that installs air conditioning systems in street
rods,
> classic cars and other vehicles that were not equiped with compressors
from
> the manufacturer. From experience I can promise you the use of intake as
well as
> exhaust mufflers on A/C compressors has negligible if any benefit. We find
> the noise in compressors usually has more to do with hoses contacting body
> panels than anything else. Also the style of compressor has a major
effect,
> generally the more pistons the better. Most modern compressors have 5 to 9
cylinders
> with some as many as fifteen. Your 35 year old compressor may only have
two.
> Contact me off list and I'll see if I can help.
> Carroll
> trainnut01(at)aol.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Trainnut01(at)aol.com |
You're right. I have been working with a friend to fit an A/C compressor on a
RV and was so locked in on that I assumed you were talking about A/C
compressors. Forget I said anything.
Carroll
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Schipper <mike(at)learningplanet.com> |
I did the exact same thing on my left rudder skin. I thought I was
being smart by edge-rolling the trailing edge, but instead it came out
all wavy. I continued with the process of bonding the skin to the AEX
wedge hoping that it would straighten up, but as soon as I started back
riveting, the waves reappeared. It was a big mess, and afterwards I
wished I had cut my losses early, because I wasted a perfectly good
right skin and AEX wedge.
So, I ordered two new skins and wedge, and since then I haven't edge
rolled any of the trailing edges on the empennage.
Mike Schipper
9A - #90768
Wings on order
On Mar 22, 2004, at 1:17 AM, Warren W Hurd wrote:
>
> I posted a photo at http://www.ahyup.com/Wrinkle/ of a wave I made in
> the wing skin edge. The wheels of the Avery edge roller were not
> perpendicular to the edge of the skin, thus stretching the metal and
> making a wave. Are these kits so good that I could order a new skin and
> drill out the holes without match drilling? I want to replace the
> wrinkled skin.
>
> Warren
> http:ahyup.com
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tracy Crook" <lors01(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Renesis (was: Engines again / Weights) |
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Dube
Very exciting news. Please keep us informed about your progress
with the Renesis engine.
Bill Dube
Bill,
I have not installed the Renesis yet but here is a synopsis of the testing done
in preparation for it. This is a collection of messages and replies sent to
a rotary engine discussion group so it may sound a bit choppy.
I'm just now starting on my Renesis evaluation. First I wanted to compare it to
the earlier rotary (89 vintage) so I installed the RD-1C 2.85 : 1 drive and
larger prop [74 x 88] (intended for the Renesis). Things are different enough
that it will take at least 20 hours to evaluate. I'll be posting detailed reports
on the website.
On the second flight test of this configuration I had planned to do a maximum performance
takeoff to see how it compared. I was fully aware that the P-factor
would be opposite (prop turns right instead of left) but I was unprepared for
the magnitude of it. With full right rudder the plane was still veering left.
Things happened too quickly for me to be exactly sure of what happened next but
I think when the tail wheel lifted off, the plane turned sharply to the left
and I was certain that I was going to crash into the fence that borders the runway.
No one was more surprised than I when the RV-4 lifted off and cleared the
fence (barely!).
There were lots more interesting differences (most of them good) but it will take
several pages and more time than I have right now to explain them.
My first recommendation when using the -C drive and a big prop is Feed in power
gradually on takeoff until rudder is fully effective. A bit of right offset
in the engine mount might also be in order (mine has none).
Tracy
( Ed Anderson asked for some comparison fuel burn numbers)
Hi Ed,
Wish I had more carefully documented fuel burn vs airspeed on the -B drive & old
prop. But from the few well documented points that I have, it looks about the
same at 6.0 GPH (sea level) IAS, 143 - 148 depending on OAT, humidity, etc
(its amazing how much conditions affect things). This is the only point I've
had a chance to compare so far. I have not built the prop blade cuffs that I
feel will be necessary to get best performance from this combination. Clark at
Performance Props was very honest about the difficulty in getting the proper
pitch at the blade root (out to ~ 3" past the 13" dia. spinner) with pitch this
high. This being the case, I'm very happy with the results so far.
Other conclusions are that anything less than 74" L prop is a waste on the -C drive.
More would be better but that's as long as the -4 prop clearance would
allow.
I can't measure static rpm (plane wants to skid on grass and/or nose over) but
climb RPM is at 6200 at 120 mph (up from about 5200 with -B drive) and VSI is
pegged (hard!). Only did very brief test of WOT in level flight and engine hit
7050 rpm. IAS was still climbing at 215 mph. Oil cooling has suffered due
to stalled air around prop hub and reversed spiral of airflow due to RH prop.
Erased several years of tweaking inlet shapes.
Most unexpected finding so far is the radically improved glide at idle setting.
Have no clue why. Would have expected worse instead of better.
Tracy
The -C drive has very different internals but I will look at the feasibility of
reworking the -B housing to receive the -C guts. I think it can be done. Yes,
the -C bolts right up to the same adapter plate. I think you are right about
the 2.85 becoming the preferred ratio, but only if you can handle the longer
prop. You nose draggers have the advantage here
The more I fly it the better I like this setup. The higher rpm was very disconcerting
at first but I acclimated rapidly. And now that I have digested the
fact that the actual rpm difference at normally used throttle settings is only
about 5%, I absolutely love it. Another good sign is that the manifold pressure
is now more than 5% lower at any given airspeed that I've tested so far.
Even if the wear rate is up 5% or so it would be a non issue.
One more plus for the 2.85 is something I hesitate to mention. It's kind of like
the "engine making oil so I have to drain some out" thing, kind of unbelievable.
It makes sense that there would be less prop noise but I'm also getting
less engine noise.
I was getting tired of the increased noise with the Hushpower II muffler and was
almost ready to put the Spintech back on even though it costs at least 5 - 6
mph in drag. But with the -C drive things have quieted down substantially.
I think part of the credit for this goes to the difference in RPM moving the vibrations
away from the resonance point of the sheet metal panels in my RV-4 but
even observers on the ground have mentioned that the engine sounds quieter.
I better shut-up now, this is starting to sound too good to be true.
Tracy
The following message was a reply to a wise crack by Finn Lassen saying that Paul
Lamar was right all along (about the best ratio being higher than the 2.176
: 1 that I used previously)
OK, OK, rub it in, but before you guys get carried away, consider the following:
The prop limitation was always my only reservation about using the higher ratio.
I must emphasize that in order for this to work, the prop must not only be
long but has to have a good profile as far down toward the root as possible with
the MUCH higher pitch. I worked with Clark at Performance Props and emphasized
this. It required a thicker than standard hub to get close to what was
needed (and it still needs the previously mentioned cuffs).
If you don't do these things, all you get is significantly higher rpm, less performance,
higher fuel burn and higher wear. Look at the numbers from previous
users of the 2.85 drive.
Did I mention the three spinners, various spinner bulkheads, prop bolts that were
now too short and other various things that went wrong during the effort to
make this work right?
Tracy
Tune in again next week : )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pcondon" <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | Drilling Rivets (out) |
A simple way to do this is to drill the brazier head of the rivet with the
shank sized (30 or 40), only to the depth of the mushroomed brazier head.
Simply remove the drill bit from the chuck of the drill and take the chuck
end (no drill flutes) of the drill, insert into drilled out rivet head and
briskly snap off the head using the drill bit as a "break off tool". Works
all the time for me....when I was repairing some else's rivets.....never my
crappy rivets.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | DeVilbiss E-Z Liners |
| From: | <EricHe(at)FlexSolPackaging.com> |
Just wanted to throw this into the archives. Finally got to use my new box of DeVilbiss
E-Z Liners this weekend. Its an innexpensive kit with zip lock bags and
inserts that go into the neck of any gravity feed HVLP gun. You insert a receptical
into the base of your guns cup, then put an insert into the bag, you
poke the two together with an insert tool. Pour in your paint, zip the bag closed
with the help of the zipper tool. Turn the gun upside down and spray until
paint comes out. Once the gun is drawing paint, you can paint in any direction
with absolutely no difference (that I observed) in the way the paint comes out.
You also don't have to clean out your cup when you are done. Fits all guns.
This weekend I shot the bottom of a 6A and this worked out great with my Sharpe
SGF gun. The cost is about 25 bucks which beats the stink out of buying a pressure
pot to paint the bottom surfaces. Here's a link. Do a search for E-Z liners
in the gun cup section.
Build On
Eric
http://www.autorefinishdevilbiss.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com> |
| Subject: | (Humor) Van's Caption Contest |
I just got the #1, 2004 RVator and see that one of my captions won the
contest. I say 'one' because I inundated them with captions; it was a
little bit of fun. For your amusement, I share the remainder and I'd like
to hear from other entrants to extend the list. With permission, I'll
compile the list and post it on my website.
[quote]
My caption idea is: "How can you cite me for a wheels up landing, Officer?
It doesn't have retractable gear!"
#2 - "Honest, Officer, I never thought it could do an axial roll while
taxiing."
#3 - "Would you believe I thought I was in Australia?" or "I bought this
gyro from a guy named Johanson."
#4 - "They ran off saying something about this 'being more fun than cows'."
#5 - "It was a perfect 180-degree letdown. except for the rollout at the
end."
#6 - "Officer, let me tell you about P-factor."
#7 - "Ya mean to tell me the plans were upside down when I built this?!!"
#8 - ".just like a bug with it's feet in the air. Don't know why it does
that when the engine dies."
#9 - "I just painted those gear fairings."
#10 - "I've been doing aerobatics all day; the approach looked perfectly
normal to me."
#11 - "Upside down? Heck, I was flying it backwards, too."
#12 - "Under the influence? Yeah, of CAVU and the best airplane ever."
[/quote]
Patrick Kelley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Sun-N-Fun -- GPS coordinates |
Does anyone have the GPS coordinates for the (2) towers West of lake Parker?
Also any plans for get togethers?
Chuck Rowbotham
RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
>>>>>>>>>>>
Sorry for the rant, I guess I really just wanted to point out the importance
of before-start, and pre-flight checklists.
Ed Bundy - Eagle, Idaho
RV6A 600+ hours
<<<<<<<<<<<<
I couldn't agree with you more than I already do about checklists and
process. But even with twice checking, I have left the canopy unlatched and
aborted a takeoff.
My point was if you can accomplish something in a fashion that doesn't leave
the plane disabled, or makes it impossible to even get in the airplane until
you reable it then you have one more level of redundancy that is good for
our health.
On the other hand, experience/history tells us that if a procedure which is
regularly used, disables the aircraft, it can/will eventually lead to an
incident. So therefore safety demands that we reduce these types of
procedures as much as possible, and where not possible we conduct the
procedure in a failsafe manner if at all possible. (IE can't open the
canopy, can't get in the airplane, engine won't start, etc)
So a better choice than a rudder lock would be a set of rudder trim springs
or rubber stops that allow the rudder to move but prevent or reduce wind
banging of the rudder.
If you must have a rudder lock then it can be a piece of rubber gap seal
with two short pieces of hard rubber hose stuffed through it, inserted into
the counterweight horn gap, and a piece of string that runs from it to the
canopy cover, or prop tip so you have to remove it just to climb in. If that
fails, along with your checklists than the rubber should allow you to flex
the rudder some, and maybe pop the lock out.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi Vince,
Look at the nuts on the end of the wires. They will be marked 1T Or 1B, 2T
or 2B, etc. Don't worry about the Top or Bottom markings. Just connect them
all on the bottom plugs as marked.
Cash Copeland
RV-6 Hayward, Ca
In a message dated 3/22/2004 6:06:08 AM Pacific Standard Time,
welchvincent(at)hotmail.com writes:
Gentlemen,
I have an IO-360 with one Lightspeed EI and one Slick mag. The mag was
mounted to the engine by the builder and the cap with leads attached was in
a separate box. I looked at the cap this weekend and see a marking for the
no. 1 wire on the outside. However, I don't see how to identify the other
leads and I don't see any kind of mark that tells me the orientation of the
cap when placed onto the mag.
Can any of you gentlemen point me in the right direction?
Vince Welch
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neil McLeod" <bedrock(at)theriver.com> |
| Subject: | Renesis (was: Engines again / Weights) |
At the risk of offending the fanatics, I just love reading about these
types of experiments with the good AND bad without all the "Pie in the
Sky" better, faster, cheaper than Lycoming bashing. Real World Solutions
is an apt name. Thanks Tracy!
Neil McLeod
7QB AEIO-360, baffles
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tracy Crook
Subject: Re: RV-List: Renesis (was: Engines again / Weights)
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Dube
Very exciting news. Please keep us informed about your progress
with the Renesis engine.
Bill Dube
Bill,
I have not installed the Renesis yet but here is a synopsis of the
testing done in preparation for it. This is a collection of messages
and replies sent to a rotary engine discussion group so it may sound a
bit choppy.
I'm just now starting on my Renesis evaluation. First I wanted to
compare it to the earlier rotary (89 vintage) so I installed the RD-1C
2.85 : 1 drive and larger prop [74 x 88] (intended for the Renesis).
Things are different enough that it will take at least 20 hours to
evaluate. I'll be posting detailed reports on the website.
On the second flight test of this configuration I had planned to do a
maximum performance takeoff to see how it compared. I was fully aware
that the P-factor would be opposite (prop turns right instead of left)
but I was unprepared for the magnitude of it. With full right rudder
the plane was still veering left.
Things happened too quickly for me to be exactly sure of what happened
next but I think when the tail wheel lifted off, the plane turned
sharply to the left and I was certain that I was going to crash into the
fence that borders the runway. No one was more surprised than I when
the RV-4 lifted off and cleared the fence (barely!).
There were lots more interesting differences (most of them good) but it
will take several pages and more time than I have right now to explain
them.
My first recommendation when using the -C drive and a big prop is Feed
in power gradually on takeoff until rudder is fully effective. A bit of
right offset in the engine mount might also be in order (mine has none).
Tracy
( Ed Anderson asked for some comparison fuel burn numbers)
Hi Ed,
Wish I had more carefully documented fuel burn vs airspeed on the -B
drive & old prop. But from the few well documented points that I have,
it looks about the same at 6.0 GPH (sea level) IAS, 143 - 148 depending
on OAT, humidity, etc (its amazing how much conditions affect things).
This is the only point I've had a chance to compare so far. I have not
built the prop blade cuffs that I feel will be necessary to get best
performance from this combination. Clark at Performance Props was very
honest about the difficulty in getting the proper pitch at the blade
root (out to ~ 3" past the 13" dia. spinner) with pitch this high. This
being the case, I'm very happy with the results so far.
Other conclusions are that anything less than 74" L prop is a waste on
the -C drive. More would be better but that's as long as the -4 prop
clearance would allow.
I can't measure static rpm (plane wants to skid on grass and/or nose
over) but climb RPM is at 6200 at 120 mph (up from about 5200 with -B
drive) and VSI is pegged (hard!). Only did very brief test of WOT in
level flight and engine hit 7050 rpm. IAS was still climbing at 215
mph. Oil cooling has suffered due to stalled air around prop hub and
reversed spiral of airflow due to RH prop. Erased several years of
tweaking inlet shapes.
Most unexpected finding so far is the radically improved glide at idle
setting. Have no clue why. Would have expected worse instead of
better.
Tracy
The -C drive has very different internals but I will look at the
feasibility of reworking the -B housing to receive the -C guts. I think
it can be done. Yes, the -C bolts right up to the same adapter plate.
I think you are right about the 2.85 becoming the preferred ratio, but
only if you can handle the longer prop. You nose draggers have the
advantage here
The more I fly it the better I like this setup. The higher rpm was
very disconcerting at first but I acclimated rapidly. And now that I
have digested the fact that the actual rpm difference at normally used
throttle settings is only about 5%, I absolutely love it. Another good
sign is that the manifold pressure is now more than 5% lower at any
given airspeed that I've tested so far. Even if the wear rate is up 5%
or so it would be a non issue.
One more plus for the 2.85 is something I hesitate to mention. It's
kind of like the "engine making oil so I have to drain some out" thing,
kind of unbelievable. It makes sense that there would be less prop
noise but I'm also getting less engine noise.
I was getting tired of the increased noise with the Hushpower II muffler
and was almost ready to put the Spintech back on even though it costs at
least 5 - 6 mph in drag. But with the -C drive things have quieted down
substantially. I think part of the credit for this goes to the
difference in RPM moving the vibrations away from the resonance point of
the sheet metal panels in my RV-4 but even observers on the ground have
mentioned that the engine sounds quieter.
I better shut-up now, this is starting to sound too good to be true.
Tracy
The following message was a reply to a wise crack by Finn Lassen saying
that Paul Lamar was right all along (about the best ratio being higher
than the 2.176 : 1 that I used previously)
OK, OK, rub it in, but before you guys get carried away, consider the
following:
The prop limitation was always my only reservation about using the
higher ratio. I must emphasize that in order for this to work, the prop
must not only be long but has to have a good profile as far down toward
the root as possible with the MUCH higher pitch. I worked with Clark at
Performance Props and emphasized this. It required a thicker than
standard hub to get close to what was needed (and it still needs the
previously mentioned cuffs).
If you don't do these things, all you get is significantly higher rpm,
less performance, higher fuel burn and higher wear. Look at the numbers
from previous users of the 2.85 drive.
Did I mention the three spinners, various spinner bulkheads, prop bolts
that were now too short and other various things that went wrong during
the effort to make this work right?
Tracy
Tune in again next week : )
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: Renesis (was: Engines again / Weights) |
> This is a collection of messages and replies sent to a rotary engine
> discussion group so it may sound a bit choppy.
Rotary engine discussion group???? Which one talks about aircraft
installations?
>One more plus for the 2.85 is something I hesitate to mention. It's kind
>of like the "engine making oil so I have to drain some out" thing, kind of
>unbelievable. It makes sense that there would be less prop noise but I'm
>also getting less engine noise.
>
>I was getting tired of the increased noise with the Hushpower II muffler
>and was almost ready to put the Spintech back on even though it costs at
>least 5 - 6 mph in drag. But with the -C drive things have quieted down
>substantially. I think part of the credit for this goes to the difference
>in RPM moving the vibrations away from the resonance point of the sheet
>metal panels in my RV-4 but even observers on the ground have mentioned
>that the engine sounds quieter.
>
>I better shut-up now, this is starting to sound too good to be true.
>Tracy
A muffler is basically a low-pass filter. If you go to higher
frequency input (higher RPM) you should get greater attenuation. Typically,
they are more than 1st order filters, so you should get much more than 20
dB per decade.
Also, you are making less energy per combustion cycle. (The HP
demand is the same, but you are running at higher RPM.) This should reduce
the peak combustion pressure and the concomitant pressure fluctuation at
the exhaust port.
The muffler becomes more effective and the pressure pulses are
reduced in magnitude. You can't help but reduce the noise.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Austin" <austin(at)uniserve.com> |
Listers,
I have a Lowrance 100 handheld GPS unit with power cord adapter
for sale.....$200....
Unit as new, just used to doodle with, but old eyes need bigger unit....
Will pay postage anywhere....
Please contact offline,
Austin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV List Fly-in Fish Fry |
writes:
>
>
> smoothweasel(at)juno.com wrote:
>
> >
> > Hey Guys/Gals, we are planning a fly-in fish fry for anyone that
> wants
> > to come. All ya need ta do is fly in and eat. The strip is 2000ft.
> grass
> > and is located right on a fish farm here in east Mississippi. If
> you have
> > ever been in this area you have noticed the large amount of ponds
> here so
> > this is a great opportunity for you to try some
> > locally-raised-farm-grown-CATFISH!!!!! Invite your friends
> (and
> > enemies......... you don't have to have an RV) and come on down
> for some
> > great food.
> >
> > Date: May 15
> >
> > Location: approx. 10 east of Macon, MS
> >
> > Please let me know off line if you plan to be there so we know how
> many
> > fish to catch!!!!! and I will give ya more specific directions.
> I
> > will try to send out another email closer to the fryin date.
> >
> > Joel "Weasel" Graber
>
> Yankee's too?
>
> phil
>
Yeh I guess so?????!!!!!!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finn.lassen(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Renesis (was: Engines again / Weights) |
Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/
Archive: http://lancaironline.net/lists/flyrotary/List.html
and (I hate to do this to you, but:)
http://home.earthlink.net/~rotaryeng/
Finn
Bill Dube wrote:
> Rotary engine discussion group???? Which one talks about aircraft
>installations?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robin Wessel" <Robin.Wessel(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | RE: DeVilbiss E-Z Liners |
In addition to the EZ-liners, check out 3M's PPG disposable cup system.
I have not tried them out yet but I hear that they are very convenient.
They allow you to spray at any angle and the cup is usable for measuring
and storage. Think of it like a disposable baby bottle.
HYPERLINK
"http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/en001/auto_marine_aero/aerospace/nod
e_N0D6GTZ148be/root_GST1T4S9TCgv/vroot_GSNNJ6NQDKge/gvel_1CCHNCJWK7gl/th
eme_us_aerospace_3_0/command_AbcPageHandler/output_html"http://products3
.3m.com/catalog/us/en001/auto_marine_aero/aerospace/node_N0D6GTZ148be/ro
ot_GST1T4S9TCgv/vroot_GSNNJ6NQDKge/gvel_1CCHNCJWK7gl/theme_us_aerospace_
3_0/command_AbcPageHandler/output_html
robin wessel
RV-10, Tigard, OR
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Pedersen" <wayne(at)pedersentransport.com> |
| Subject: | air-oil separator |
Cant seem to find any info in the archives on this slime/oil on the belly
apparatus. Anyone have any experience with these air-oil separators ? A/S
has them as cheap as $38.50 and up. Vans is $157.00 Do they work ? and Is
this $$$ well spent. Suggestions ?
Thanks
Wayne
RV7a IO-360 Finishing
S.Alberta
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Christopher Stone <rv8iator(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: EL lighting |
Conductive epoxy is available from
http://www.masterbond.com/sg/ecsg.html
I too purchased the green EL strips from Buy.Com...
Great price!
Dan,
Thanks for the data collection.
Chris Stone
RV8
Newberg, OR
-----Original Message-----
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: EL lighting
I received my EL lighting tapes last week from Buy.com and thought some
Listers may be interested in the following information about them. To get free
shipping, I ordered 3 EL kits to get the total over $25. The red ones were
cheaper -- about $8.95, than the green ones, and I thought I may want red anyway,
so I ordered 2 reds and one green. The green EL tapes are brighter than the
red, and much more efficient (see below). And my 2 reds were different colors.
One was almost purple, and not near as bright as the other red. Also, all
three inverters were different. One was much smaller than the other two. The
dimensions of the larger ones are 1 3/4 by 1 by 15/16 high, not counting the
mounting ears. The smaller one is 1 1/16 by 11/16 by 13/16 high. The inverters
have 2 cables and connectors to drive 2 tapes, so maybe you can buy the tapes
separately.
The package has some specs on the inverter. The input is 12V and has a
connector which mates to a disk drive power cable in the computer. The output
is
90 VAC at 1 KHz. I measured the input current on one of the inverters driving
each strip as: green 28 mA, red 64 mA, and purple 32 mA. When driving no
strip at all the current was 15 mA. The current is less at lower voltage. This
limited testing shows that the green is much more efficient. The point is that
there is a lot of variation between the different colors. Of course, I don't
have enough strips to be sure that my data is typical of all the parts.
The width of the strip according to the package is 0.3 inches, but they
measured 0.4, 0.5 and 0.55 inches! The 0.55 inches was because of sloppy assembly,
the two outside clear tapes were offset from each other. The length is
(almost) 5 feet and can be cut off, but I don't know how you would connect to the
unused piece to use it again. At Delco we had some conductive epoxy which
would work, but I don't know where to get it now, and its probably expensive.
Does anyone know? Short pieces may come in handy to light instruments, switches,
etc.
I'm not unhappy with these EL lighting strips. I think I will make use of at
least one of them, and the price is great.
Regards,
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (Building my RV-9 rudder before the first flight, not that I intend on
doing spins!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pcondon" <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
I recall the trick of using the -H2AD pistons in a standard O-320 for a
compression rise. Being "standard" pistons for the -H2AD, the cost isn't
outrageous for hi compression pistons-for standard O-320's.....
Does anyone else recall this...or maybe I should replace the filter in my
paint mask more often.....
From: Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com>
Subject: RV-List: Pistons...
vansairforce
Anyone have any high compression pistons for an O320?
-Bill VonDane
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
www.vondane.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Air-Oil Seperator |
Wayne;
I had my crankcase vent tube led down to the exhaust pipe and pointed dead
against the pipe. About 1/8" clearance. The oil hits the hot pipe and bakes so
there is just dry ash to get on the belly.
Bob Olds -- RV-4 , N1191X
oldsfolks(at)aol.com
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Sneed <n242ds(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | starter problem? |
I need some help to diagnose a problem I am having. When my airplane
was built the builder did not think the battery had enough power for
the airplane because it did not spin the prop very fast for startup
although it usually would spin it enough for startup. The builder
installed a motorcycle battery in the luggage compartment for extra
power.
During the winter I had a time or two when the the starter or battery
just barley turned the prop and I had to jump the plane in one
occasion. I noticed the battery in the plane was old and I thought a
new one would fix the issue. I order a new odyssey battery and that
seemed to fix the problem. After about 30 hours of flying with the new
battery I decided to remove the 10 pound motorcycle battery from the
luggage compartment thinking I did not need it anymore. I flew another
5 hours (warm weather 70's) with no problem. two nights ago the low was
40 degrees down here in NW florida, yesterday it was about 55 when I
went flying, sure enough the starter/battery just barley turned the
prop enough for the engine to start. nothing drains the battery when
the master is off (no clock ect...) and the voltage on the battery is
12.8-12.9. With the alt on it shows about 14.4 volts. Does anyone have
any idea what my problem is? I only have trouble on the first start of
the day (my guess is that once the oil heats up it is MUCH easier to
start the engine.) Could I have a weak/bad starter (it is a lightweight
starter)? any ideas or things to check would be great.
Thanks,
Jason Sneed
Commercial Lending Officer
First National Bank and Trust
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: starter problem? |
From my experience, at 65 (engine temp) the first few blades turn very slow
and then a immediate start (elect ign). After the engine warms up as you
mentioned its a non issue. I was told by my engine builder to pre heat the
engine any time the temps get into the 50's. Not so much for ease of
starting but to get the oil flowing in a timely manner after starting. The
side benefit to this is the engine will turn over faster when starting.
Another thing to consider is OAT and engine temp. You mentioned it was 55
when you went flying. I bet the internal engine temp was 45, no wonder you
were having problems turning the engine over.
>
>I need some help to diagnose a problem I am having. When my airplane
>was built the builder did not think the battery had enough power for
>the airplane because it did not spin the prop very fast for startup
>although it usually would spin it enough for startup. The builder
>installed a motorcycle battery in the luggage compartment for extra
>power.
>
>During the winter I had a time or two when the the starter or battery
>just barley turned the prop and I had to jump the plane in one
>occasion. I noticed the battery in the plane was old and I thought a
>new one would fix the issue. I order a new odyssey battery and that
>seemed to fix the problem. After about 30 hours of flying with the new
>battery I decided to remove the 10 pound motorcycle battery from the
>luggage compartment thinking I did not need it anymore. I flew another
>5 hours (warm weather 70's) with no problem. two nights ago the low was
>40 degrees down here in NW florida, yesterday it was about 55 when I
>went flying, sure enough the starter/battery just barley turned the
>prop enough for the engine to start. nothing drains the battery when
>the master is off (no clock ect...) and the voltage on the battery is
>12.8-12.9. With the alt on it shows about 14.4 volts. Does anyone have
>any idea what my problem is? I only have trouble on the first start of
>the day (my guess is that once the oil heats up it is MUCH easier to
>start the engine.) Could I have a weak/bad starter (it is a lightweight
>starter)? any ideas or things to check would be great.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Jason Sneed
>Commercial Lending Officer
>First National Bank and Trust
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <rv3(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: air-oil separator |
Wayne Pedersen wrote:
>
>Cant seem to find any info in the archives on this slime/oil on the belly
>apparatus. Anyone have any experience with these air-oil separators ? A/S
>has them as cheap as $38.50 and up. Vans is $157.00 Do they work ? and Is
>this $$$ well spent. Suggestions ?
>
>Thanks
>
>Wayne
>RV7a IO-360 Finishing
>S.Alberta
>
The more important question may be....
Is it good for your engine to be re-ingesting this nasty 'goop'?
IMO...
'Tis better and cheaper to let the contaminated water laded oil gunk
drip on the hot exhaust or catch it in a container for later disposal.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Sneed <n242ds(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: starter problem? |
The hangar temp and the engine temp were the same that day, 54 degrees.
On Mar 23, 2004, at 10:27 AM, Scott Bilinski wrote:
> <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
> From my experience, at 65 (engine temp) the first few blades turn very
> slow
> and then a immediate start (elect ign). After the engine warms up as
> you
> mentioned its a non issue. I was told by my engine builder to pre heat
> the
> engine any time the temps get into the 50's. Not so much for ease of
> starting but to get the oil flowing in a timely manner after starting.
> The
> side benefit to this is the engine will turn over faster when starting.
> Another thing to consider is OAT and engine temp. You mentioned it was
> 55
> when you went flying. I bet the internal engine temp was 45, no wonder
> you
> were having problems turning the engine over.
>
> wrote:
>>
>> I need some help to diagnose a problem I am having. When my airplane
>> was built the builder did not think the battery had enough power for
>> the airplane because it did not spin the prop very fast for startup
>> although it usually would spin it enough for startup. The builder
>> installed a motorcycle battery in the luggage compartment for extra
>> power.
>>
>> During the winter I had a time or two when the the starter or battery
>> just barley turned the prop and I had to jump the plane in one
>> occasion. I noticed the battery in the plane was old and I thought a
>> new one would fix the issue. I order a new odyssey battery and that
>> seemed to fix the problem. After about 30 hours of flying with the new
>> battery I decided to remove the 10 pound motorcycle battery from the
>> luggage compartment thinking I did not need it anymore. I flew another
>> 5 hours (warm weather 70's) with no problem. two nights ago the low
>> was
>> 40 degrees down here in NW florida, yesterday it was about 55 when I
>> went flying, sure enough the starter/battery just barley turned the
>> prop enough for the engine to start. nothing drains the battery when
>> the master is off (no clock ect...) and the voltage on the battery is
>> 12.8-12.9. With the alt on it shows about 14.4 volts. Does anyone have
>> any idea what my problem is? I only have trouble on the first start of
>> the day (my guess is that once the oil heats up it is MUCH easier to
>> start the engine.) Could I have a weak/bad starter (it is a
>> lightweight
>> starter)? any ideas or things to check would be great.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Jason Sneed
>> Commercial Lending Officer
>> First National Bank and Trust
>>
>>
>
>
> Scott Bilinski
> Eng dept 305
> Phone (858) 657-2536
> Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
Jason Sneed
Commercial Lending Officer
First National Bank and Trust
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Re: DeVilbiss E-Z Liners |
I started using a gravity feed gun with the throw-away baggies on my
last project. Awesome!
I'll never go back to my suction feed gun again.
Laird RV-6
SoCal
>
>
>Just wanted to throw this into the archives. Finally got to use my
>new box of DeVilbiss E-Z Liners this weekend. Its an innexpensive
>kit with zip lock bags and inserts that go into the neck of any
>gravity feed HVLP gun. You insert a receptical into the base of your
>guns cup, then put an insert into the bag, you poke the two together
>with an insert tool. Pour in your paint, zip the bag closed with the
>help of the zipper tool. Turn the gun upside down and spray until
>paint comes out. Once the gun is drawing paint, you can paint in any
>direction with absolutely no difference (that I observed) in the way
>the paint comes out. You also don't have to clean out your cup when
>you are done. Fits all guns.
>
>This weekend I shot the bottom of a 6A and this worked out great
>with my Sharpe SGF gun. The cost is about 25 bucks which beats the
>stink out of buying a pressure pot to paint the bottom surfaces.
>Here's a link. Do a search for E-Z liners in the gun cup section.
>
>Build On
>
>Eric
>
>
>http://www.autorefinishdevilbiss.com/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: starter problem? |
What kind of starter are you using? My O-320-A2A with a Sky-Tec starter,
Odyssey battery and Marvel carb with accel pump but no primer lines turns
over and starts fine even in the 40's. On a trip to Nampa, ID last winter
it started fine at 38 one morning. (Knock on wood)
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: air-oil separator |
I bought the $38.50 job,
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/hboilbreather.php
cut a big hole on the front, made a cover for it, and stuffed it with
stainless steel pot scrubbers. The drain hose is about 14" long and ends in a
radiator-type petcock. At 50 hour checkout on a re-ringed engine, I only got about
a teaspoon of water and a tablespoon of oil out of it, and have a
barely-noticeable film on the belly. The exit vent hose is about 1/2" from the
exhaust
pipe. At 100 hrs I'll add more scrubbers to see how that works. Let me know if
ya want a foto of the surgery...
From The PossumWorks
Mark -6A, FLYING!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: starter problem? |
Engine temps always lag behind the air temps when warming up because thats
a very large mass that needs to change temp. If at 5am it was 45 air temp
and then 9am its 55 the engine will still be at 45, on its very long
journey to reaching current temps. I dont have a heated hanger but this is
what I see. By the way I also have a PC680 battery and the engine is IO-360
with 9.2:1. Can you borrow a starter from somebody and try it out? Thats
about the only other area to look other than connections, power, gnd, etc.
>
>The hangar temp and the engine temp were the same that day, 54 degrees.
>
>
>On Mar 23, 2004, at 10:27 AM, Scott Bilinski wrote:
>
>> <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>>
>> From my experience, at 65 (engine temp) the first few blades turn very
>> slow
>> and then a immediate start (elect ign). After the engine warms up as
>> you
>> mentioned its a non issue. I was told by my engine builder to pre heat
>> the
>> engine any time the temps get into the 50's. Not so much for ease of
>> starting but to get the oil flowing in a timely manner after starting.
>> The
>> side benefit to this is the engine will turn over faster when starting.
>> Another thing to consider is OAT and engine temp. You mentioned it was
>> 55
>> when you went flying. I bet the internal engine temp was 45, no wonder
>> you
>> were having problems turning the engine over.
>>
>> wrote:
>>>
>>> I need some help to diagnose a problem I am having. When my airplane
>>> was built the builder did not think the battery had enough power for
>>> the airplane because it did not spin the prop very fast for startup
>>> although it usually would spin it enough for startup. The builder
>>> installed a motorcycle battery in the luggage compartment for extra
>>> power.
>>>
>>> During the winter I had a time or two when the the starter or battery
>>> just barley turned the prop and I had to jump the plane in one
>>> occasion. I noticed the battery in the plane was old and I thought a
>>> new one would fix the issue. I order a new odyssey battery and that
>>> seemed to fix the problem. After about 30 hours of flying with the new
>>> battery I decided to remove the 10 pound motorcycle battery from the
>>> luggage compartment thinking I did not need it anymore. I flew another
>>> 5 hours (warm weather 70's) with no problem. two nights ago the low
>>> was
>>> 40 degrees down here in NW florida, yesterday it was about 55 when I
>>> went flying, sure enough the starter/battery just barley turned the
>>> prop enough for the engine to start. nothing drains the battery when
>>> the master is off (no clock ect...) and the voltage on the battery is
>>> 12.8-12.9. With the alt on it shows about 14.4 volts. Does anyone have
>>> any idea what my problem is? I only have trouble on the first start of
>>> the day (my guess is that once the oil heats up it is MUCH easier to
>>> start the engine.) Could I have a weak/bad starter (it is a
>>> lightweight
>>> starter)? any ideas or things to check would be great.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Jason Sneed
>>> Commercial Lending Officer
>>> First National Bank and Trust
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> Scott Bilinski
>> Eng dept 305
>> Phone (858) 657-2536
>> Pager (858) 502-5190
>>
>>
>> _-
>> =======================================================================
>> _-
>> =======================================================================
>> _-
>> =======================================================================
>> _-
>> =======================================================================
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
>Jason Sneed
>Commercial Lending Officer
>First National Bank and Trust
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <rv3(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: starter problem? |
Albert Gardner wrote:
>
>
>What kind of starter are you using? My O-320-A2A with a Sky-Tec starter,
>Odyssey battery and Marvel carb with accel pump but no primer lines turns
>over and starts fine even in the 40's. On a trip to Nampa, ID last winter
>it started fine at 38 one morning. (Knock on wood)
>Albert Gardner
>RV-9A 872RV
>Yuma, AZ
>
>
Similar results here using a Wal-mart lawn and garden battery to power
my 0-320 into the 30's.
My starter was originally issued to a 1980 Toyota truck. Yes, Toyota
truck. :-)
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
Phil & Bill,
This same question was recently answered by Mahlon (of Mattituck) on the Lycoming
list recently. Phil is correct, the H2AD pistons can be used in the standard
O-320s to affect a compression increase to 9.2 to 1. They can also be used
in the parallel valve O-360s as well. There is an increase in the weight of these
pistons though.
Charlie Kuss
>
> From: "pcondon" <pcondon(at)mitre.org>
> Date: 2004/03/23 Tue AM 10:00:10 EST
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Pistons...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: starter problem? |
Jason Sneed wrote:
>
>I need some help to diagnose a problem I am having. When my airplane
>was built the builder did not think the battery had enough power for
>the airplane because it did not spin the prop very fast for startup
>although it usually would spin it enough for startup. The builder
>installed a motorcycle battery in the luggage compartment for extra
>power.
>
>During the winter I had a time or two when the the starter or battery
>just barley turned the prop and I had to jump the plane in one
>occasion. I noticed the battery in the plane was old and I thought a
>new one would fix the issue. I order a new odyssey battery and that
>seemed to fix the problem. After about 30 hours of flying with the new
>battery I decided to remove the 10 pound motorcycle battery from the
>luggage compartment thinking I did not need it anymore. I flew another
>5 hours (warm weather 70's) with no problem. two nights ago the low was
>40 degrees down here in NW florida, yesterday it was about 55 when I
>went flying, sure enough the starter/battery just barley turned the
>prop enough for the engine to start. nothing drains the battery when
>the master is off (no clock ect...) and the voltage on the battery is
>12.8-12.9. With the alt on it shows about 14.4 volts. Does anyone have
>any idea what my problem is? I only have trouble on the first start of
>the day (my guess is that once the oil heats up it is MUCH easier to
>start the engine.) Could I have a weak/bad starter (it is a lightweight
>starter)? any ideas or things to check would be great.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Jason Sneed
>Commercial Lending Officer
>First National Bank and Trust
>
Go to http://www.skytecair.com/ and click 'troubleshooting'. If you
follow his directions carefully and accurately, you'll find your
problem. All you need is a voltmeter and patience. You could be
suffering from poor grounds (is there a ground strap from the engine to
the airframe?), too small a starter cable ..... just a number of things.
Linn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: starter problem? |
> 12.8-12.9. With the alt on it shows about 14.4 volts. Does anyone have
> any idea what my problem is? I only have trouble on the first start of
> the day (my guess is that once the oil heats up it is MUCH easier to
> start the engine.) Could I have a weak/bad starter (it is a lightweight
> starter)? any ideas or things to check would be great.
If the battery is deemed healthy, then I would look much more closely at the
wiring than at the battery. That "little battery in back" sounds like a
real hackety hack bandaid for a poorly designed system.
Specifically, how's the engine ground strap doing? Poor engine grounding
could be the culprit, I suppose.
And what gauge is the wire running to the starter, how long is that run,
etc.?
Those are the first things I would check if the battery otherwise seems
healthy.
Hope this helps,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Remove bugs not wax? |
So how does everyone go about cleaning their plane, removing bugs etc, with
out removing the great wax job from the previous week? Most cleaners will
remove the wax wont they?
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Remove bugs not wax? |
Plain old cold water and a towel works for me!
Cash Copeland
RV-6 Hayward, Ca
In a message dated 3/23/2004 9:54:48 AM Pacific Standard Time,
bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com writes:
So how does everyone go about cleaning their plane, removing bugs etc, with
out removing the great wax job from the previous week? Most cleaners will
remove the wax wont they?
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: air-oil separator |
Mark,
I love it. A simple, low cost cure for the slimy belly. I bought a surplus certified
seperator at Sun N' Fun last year. I had considered an upgrade till reading
your post. Great idea. Thanks.
Charlie Kuss
>
> From: Fiveonepw(at)aol.com
> Date: 2004/03/23 Tue PM 12:34:18 EST
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: air-oil separator
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
Charlie... Did he mention the part number?
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Pistons...
Phil & Bill,
This same question was recently answered by Mahlon (of Mattituck) on the
Lycoming list recently. Phil is correct, the H2AD pistons can be used in the
standard O-320s to affect a compression increase to 9.2 to 1. They can also
be used in the parallel valve O-360s as well. There is an increase in the
weight of these pistons though.
Charlie Kuss
>
> From: "pcondon" <pcondon(at)mitre.org>
> Date: 2004/03/23 Tue AM 10:00:10 EST
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Pistons...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Sneed <n242ds(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: starter problem? |
What is the best type and gauge wire to run to the starter? Not sure
what size I hae but the battery is located between the rudder pedals.
Jason
On Mar 23, 2004, at 11:51 AM, Dan Checkoway wrote:
>
>> 12.8-12.9. With the alt on it shows about 14.4 volts. Does anyone have
>> any idea what my problem is? I only have trouble on the first start of
>> the day (my guess is that once the oil heats up it is MUCH easier to
>> start the engine.) Could I have a weak/bad starter (it is a
>> lightweight
>> starter)? any ideas or things to check would be great.
>
> If the battery is deemed healthy, then I would look much more closely
> at the
> wiring than at the battery. That "little battery in back" sounds like
> a
> real hackety hack bandaid for a poorly designed system.
>
> Specifically, how's the engine ground strap doing? Poor engine
> grounding
> could be the culprit, I suppose.
>
> And what gauge is the wire running to the starter, how long is that
> run,
> etc.?
>
> Those are the first things I would check if the battery otherwise seems
> healthy.
>
> Hope this helps,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
Jason Sneed
Commercial Lending Officer
First National Bank and Trust
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Sisson," <sisson(at)consolidated.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: EL lighting |
Christopher Stone wrote:
>
> Conductive epoxy is available from
>
> http://www.masterbond.com/sg/ecsg.html
>
> I too purchased the green EL strips from Buy.Com...
>
> Great price!
>
> Dan,
>
> Thanks for the data collection.
>
> Chris Stone
> RV8
> Newberg, OR
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: EL lighting
>
>
> I received my EL lighting tapes last week from Buy.com and thought some
> Listers may be interested in the following information about them. To get free
> shipping, I ordered 3 EL kits to get the total over $25. The red ones were
> cheaper -- about $8.95, than the green ones, and I thought I may want red anyway,
> so I ordered 2 reds and one green. The green EL tapes are brighter than the
> red, and much more efficient (see below). And my 2 reds were different colors.
> One was almost purple, and not near as bright as the other red. Also, all
> three inverters were different. One was much smaller than the other two. The
> dimensions of the larger ones are 1 3/4 by 1 by 15/16 high, not counting the
> mounting ears. The smaller one is 1 1/16 by 11/16 by 13/16 high. The inverters
> have 2 cables and connectors to drive 2 tapes, so maybe you can buy the tapes
> separately.
>
> The package has some specs on the inverter. The input is 12V and has a
> connector which mates to a disk drive power cable in the computer. The output
is
> 90 VAC at 1 KHz. I measured the input current on one of the inverters driving
> each strip as: green 28 mA, red 64 mA, and purple 32 mA. When driving no
> strip at all the current was 15 mA. The current is less at lower voltage. This
> limited testing shows that the green is much more efficient. The point is that
> there is a lot of variation between the different colors. Of course, I don't
> have enough strips to be sure that my data is typical of all the parts.
>
> The width of the strip according to the package is 0.3 inches, but they
> measured 0.4, 0.5 and 0.55 inches! The 0.55 inches was because of sloppy assembly,
> the two outside clear tapes were offset from each other. The length is
> (almost) 5 feet and can be cut off, but I don't know how you would connect to
the
> unused piece to use it again. At Delco we had some conductive epoxy which
> would work, but I don't know where to get it now, and its probably expensive.
> Does anyone know? Short pieces may come in handy to light instruments, switches,
> etc.
>
> I'm not unhappy with these EL lighting strips. I think I will make use of at
> least one of them, and the price is great.
>
> Regards,
>
> Dan Hopper
> RV-7A (Building my RV-9 rudder before the first flight, not that I intend on
> doing spins!)
>
what does Buy.com list them as as?
Tnx, Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dwpetrus(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Remove bugs not wax? |
I use Rejex instead of wax. It works great down here in Louisiana where we
have a bug or two.
Wayne Petrus
RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: starter problem? |
The wire should run between your starter contactor and the starter. I used
2 AWG for mine.
How are your contactors wired?
My battery (+) terminal is wired to the battery contactor with 2 AWG. The
starter contactor is linked to the battery contactor with two short solid
strips of copper for the least possible resistance (within reason). From
there, a 2 AWG wire runs to the starter. This is pretty much status quo for
the latest Van's FWF kits, I believe.
This may be operation overkill, but it cranks like a mutha...
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jason Sneed" <n242ds(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: starter problem?
>
> What is the best type and gauge wire to run to the starter? Not sure
> what size I hae but the battery is located between the rudder pedals.
>
>
> Jason
> On Mar 23, 2004, at 11:51 AM, Dan Checkoway wrote:
>
> >
> >> 12.8-12.9. With the alt on it shows about 14.4 volts. Does anyone have
> >> any idea what my problem is? I only have trouble on the first start of
> >> the day (my guess is that once the oil heats up it is MUCH easier to
> >> start the engine.) Could I have a weak/bad starter (it is a
> >> lightweight
> >> starter)? any ideas or things to check would be great.
> >
> > If the battery is deemed healthy, then I would look much more closely
> > at the
> > wiring than at the battery. That "little battery in back" sounds like
> > a
> > real hackety hack bandaid for a poorly designed system.
> >
> > Specifically, how's the engine ground strap doing? Poor engine
> > grounding
> > could be the culprit, I suppose.
> >
> > And what gauge is the wire running to the starter, how long is that
> > run,
> > etc.?
> >
> > Those are the first things I would check if the battery otherwise seems
> > healthy.
> >
> > Hope this helps,
> > )_( Dan
> > RV-7 N714D
> > http://www.rvproject.com
> >
> >
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
> Jason Sneed
> Commercial Lending Officer
> First National Bank and Trust
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Remove bugs not wax? |
Hi Wayne,
next time you see Glenn tell him I am trying to plan a trip to ElDorado next
month. I will come by Farmerville for a visit. Will let him know.
Paul leDoux
RV-8 QB (slowbuild)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Canadian fuel price conversion tool |
Yes...I am definitely that lazy.
http://www.rvproject.com/convert.jsp
This is a new quickie tool that lets you convert fuel prices from Canadian
dollars per liter to US dollars per gallon. Hope this helps some other lazy
fools out there like me...
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dwpetrus(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Remove bugs not wax? |
He would like that. He has told me some about some of your adventures.
I will let him know that I heard from you. We have 3 RV's flying in
Farmerville.
My 8A, 7A, and an 8 taildragger.
Wayne Petrus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Canadian fuel price conversion tool |
Dan
I'm that lazy as well, could you set one up for those of us who want to
convert the other way....We've been doing it so long I'm comfortable in
liters now.
Joe Hine
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
Subject: RV-List: Canadian fuel price conversion tool
Yes...I am definitely that lazy.
http://www.rvproject.com/convert.jsp
This is a new quickie tool that lets you convert fuel prices from Canadian
dollars per liter to US dollars per gallon. Hope this helps some other lazy
fools out there like me...
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
The part number is LW-15357 for the 9.2 to 1 pistons
Charlie
>
> From: Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com>
> Date: 2004/03/23 Tue PM 01:30:23 EST
> To: Charlie Kuss
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Pistons...
>
> Charlie... Did he mention the part number?
>
> -Bill
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2004 10:45 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Pistons...
>
>
>
> Phil & Bill,
> This same question was recently answered by Mahlon (of Mattituck) on the
> Lycoming list recently. Phil is correct, the H2AD pistons can be used in the
> standard O-320s to affect a compression increase to 9.2 to 1. They can also
> be used in the parallel valve O-360s as well. There is an increase in the
> weight of these pistons though.
> Charlie Kuss
>
> >
> > From: "pcondon" <pcondon(at)mitre.org>
> > Date: 2004/03/23 Tue AM 10:00:10 EST
> > To:
> > Subject: RV-List: Pistons...
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: air-oil separator |
Bob: Read the attached post from the old Possumworks. He is right on. It
is the same solution that I used. His design "captures" the crud for
draining when he does maintenance. I put a bulb from ACS low on the
firewall. I could drain mine as part of a pre-flight walkaround similar to
the gascolator.
I think that re-ingesting back into the engine is indeed BAD. Letting the
crud drip onto the hot exhaust is also BAD, if you have a stainless steel
system. Any carbon in this mixture could possibly create cracks in the
stainless eventually IMHO.
Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop
90% Complete - Instruments, Final Paint
>> The more important question may be....Is it good for your engine to be
re-ingesting this nasty 'goop'?
>> IMO...'Tis better and cheaper to let the contaminated water laded oil
gunk drip on the hot exhaust ... Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: <Fiveonepw(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: air-oil separator
>
> I bought the $38.50 job,
>
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/hboilbreather.php
>
> cut a big hole on the front, made a cover for it, and stuffed it with
> stainless steel pot scrubbers. The drain hose is about 14" long and ends
in a
> radiator-type petcock. At 50 hour checkout on a re-ringed engine, I only
got about
> a teaspoon of water and a tablespoon of oil out of it, and have a
> barely-noticeable film on the belly. The exit vent hose is about 1/2"
from the exhaust
> pipe. At 100 hrs I'll add more scrubbers to see how that works. Let me
know if
> ya want a foto of the surgery...
>
> From The PossumWorks
> Mark -6A, FLYING!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: > Re: Remove Bugs Not Wax |
I have an antique Maytag wringer washer in the hangar,with a foot switch to
start the wringer. I keep the chamoise and towel there and wash off the bugs
while they are fresh and juicy. As another said; fresh water doesn't remove
the wax.
Bob Olds -- RV-4 , N1191X
oldsfolks(at)aol.com
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RE: EL lighting |
In a message dated 3/23/04 2:52:57 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
sisson(at)consolidated.net writes:
>
> what does Buy.com list them as as?
>
> Tnx, Phil
>
>
Go to buy.com and search for "tape strip".
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: starter problem? |
Along these lines: Is it still considered proper to run the starter current
through the master relay, the starter relay, and then the starter solenoid?
Each of these contactors has actually 2 contacts inside. Wow thats 6 contacts
that have to make between the battery and starter!
Dan
RV-7A (almost done)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tracy Crook" <lors01(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Renesis (was: Engines again / Weights) |
At the risk of offending the fanatics, I just love reading about these
types of experiments with the good AND bad without all the "Pie in the
Sky" better, faster, cheaper than Lycoming bashing. Real World Solutions
is an apt name. Thanks Tracy!
Neil McLeod
7QB AEIO-360, baffles
Thank you Neil. Lycoming bashing really does not hold much water. We have all
heard the "Obsolete 1930's technology" type comments but the truth is that if
you were to design a simple, reliable and lightweight piston engine with today's
technology, it would look a lot like a Lycoming.
OK, so maybe the magnetos would have to go : )
Tracy Crook
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV 3 Kit for sale |
Is anyone interested in a RV3 kit? Make me an offer.
I was going to put it together but I am just to busy with other stuff
right now. Sooo..
I am not sure every piece is there but most of it is.
Stuff like,
Wing Ribs
wing skins
Bulkheads
canopy
all the fiberglass cowlings, wing tips, fairings etc.
Motor mount/landing gear
angles, chanels, panels and so on
a box full of rivits and hardware.
a 70in. Sensenich metal prop and spinner
fuel tank
and a O 290 lycoming engine all apart and in rough shape. My
understanding was it was all gone through new bearings, rings etc.
then never put back together. So things rusted. I am sure the cases,
carb and stuff like that are still good.
If you are interested give me a call at 618-937-6767
Make me an offer. I need some money for Sun N Fun.
Brett Ray
Hog-Air.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Nolan" <jamespnolan(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RV 7 Tip-UP Canopy Leak |
I've got to order the wing and fuselage for my RV-7 project and I need to
know if Van's has redesigned or fixed the problem with the Tip-UP canopy's
leaking water when it rained. I'd like to have a Tip-Up but if they still
require taping the front seam to keep rain out of the radios, I'll go with a
slider.
Jim Nolan
N444JN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Evenson" <revenson(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Dropped bucking bar--Need ding fix |
While helping a friend (previous friend?), I dropped a bucking bar inside the wing
near the leading edge, and left two noticeable dings. Surely this isn't
the first time this has happened.
Other than starting over with the new skin, do you have any suggestions for a fix?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cylinder Blocker |
In a message dated 3/5/2004 8:24:47 PM Eastern Standard Time,
pat_hatch(at)msn.com writes:
> Kyle,
>
> I also had about a 40 degree difference between cylinders 1 &3 and fixed it
> with the blocker as you describe.
>
> Here is a picture for reference.
>
> http://home.bellsouth.net/p/s/community.dll?ep=87&subpageid=134196&ck
> You can start with speed tape or something similar until you get the right
> size, but the size shown will get you pretty close.
>
> Pat Hatch
>
Pat:
I have a fairly large difference in CHT too but didn't know it was something
that needed to be addressed ... what is the deal?
Thanks !!
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, NC N910LL
218 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert E. Lynch" <rv6lynch(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aero trainers |
Austin,
I have found the shimmy is caused by the main wheels having a flat spot or
out of balance. The fact it only happens ever now a then is miss leading. It
will only get worse. Replace the mains and forget about it.
Bob
Repeat offender, about to fly number 5.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DPrestonsr(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 38 Msgs - 03/23/04 |
Jason, our 8 has a Skytec light weight starter and a Concorde 25RG-XC battery
(22lbs).
These were installed by the builder about 2/02 and still starts fine at
temps in 30's. I think the suggestion to try another starter is a good move.
We are probably going to SYI Sat. Come join us.
Doug
RV8
N127EK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cylinder Blocker |
Hey Len,
This seems to be a pattern in the RV's where the #3 cylinder runs much
hotter than #1 and somewhat hotter than 2 & 4. The blocker baffle in front
of cylinder #1 seems to even everything up. You have just so much cooling
air and I think the idea is to distribute it in the most efficient way--keep
CHT's even and in the 350 degree range in cruise and below 400 in the climb.
Beyond that, I think exit air area is the key, so if CHT's are still too
high, I would begin trimming some of the lower cowl ramp area to increase
exit air. Also, I believe you will get some success with smoothing out the
exit air flow by adding a rolling-pin shaped baffle on the lower firewall
area as many have done.
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 QB (Building)
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: <Lenleg(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cylinder Blocker
>
> In a message dated 3/5/2004 8:24:47 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> pat_hatch(at)msn.com writes:
>
> > Kyle,
> >
> > I also had about a 40 degree difference between cylinders 1 &3 and fixed
it
> > with the blocker as you describe.
> >
> > Here is a picture for reference.
> >
> > http://home.bellsouth.net/p/s/community.dll?ep=87&subpageid=134196&ck
> > You can start with speed tape or something similar until you get the
right
> > size, but the size shown will get you pretty close.
> >
> > Pat Hatch
> >
>
> Pat:
>
> I have a fairly large difference in CHT too but didn't know it was
something
> that needed to be addressed ... what is the deal?
>
> Thanks !!
>
> Len Leggette, RV-8A
> Greensboro, NC N910LL
> 218 hrs
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
>
> Austin,
> I have found the shimmy is caused by the main wheels having a
> flat spot or out of balance. The fact it only happens ever
> now a then is miss leading. It will only get worse. Replace
> the mains and forget about it.
>
> Bob
> Repeat offender, about to fly number 5.
Not always so simple - I had about 400+ landings on my Van's cheapies
with no vibration/shimmy problems. I replaced them with Michelin tires
(on the mains), and have consistently had a fore-aft shimmy at 22 knots
ever since. It is a compromise between reduced air pressure, which
helps the problem, vs difficulty pushing the plane back into the hangar.
I don't sense that they are out of balance, because in that case, I
would expect a little vibration just after liftoff, which I don't have.
Every vibration is a spring, mass and damper. Change any one, and the
vibration behavior changes. The Michelin tires are noticably heavier
than the Van's ones were.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 446 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert E. Lynch" <rv6lynch(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aero trainers |
Austin,
I forgot to mention the tension on the nose wheel, check and make sure it is
proper, it will loosen in time.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Navaid pushrod safety |
Howdy -list!
Just installed my Navaid servo in the right wingtip similar to Bob Butler's
installation outlined on Sam Buchannan's website:
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/navaid.html
and after eyeballin' them itty-bitty #6 screws on the rod ends, I'm a tad
nervous about what would happen if one of them were to let go- If either end of
the tube comes loose, you could be in for an interesting ride, to say the
least. Has anyone come up with a way to keep the pushrod from interfering with
the aileron linkage if it comes loose at that end, or with the servo or wingrib
if it gets disconnected at the other end? A couple of ideas include "hanging"
each end of the tube with some light extension springs to hold it up and away
from stuff if it does come adrift? Or maybe an upsize on the rod ends to #8
+ safety wires?
Yeah, so I'm paranoid- anyone else?
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips -6A 51PW & still grinnin'!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid pushrod safety |
Maybe not paranoid, That is exactly what we do in the Mustang on the gear
retraction pushrods, they have a pushrod with a rodend bearing that pushes
the gear up. If that rodend fails, which has happened, the pushrod can jamb
preventing the gear from freefalling to the down/locked position. To
preclude that we have a small spring on the pushrod that will pull the
pushrod up and away, allowing the gear to freefall.
FWIW.
Doug Rozendaal
>
> Howdy -list!
>
> Just installed my Navaid servo in the right wingtip similar to Bob
Butler's
> installation outlined on Sam Buchannan's website:
> http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/navaid.html
> and after eyeballin' them itty-bitty #6 screws on the rod ends, I'm a tad
> nervous about what would happen if one of them were to let go- If either
end of
> the tube comes loose, you could be in for an interesting ride, to say the
> least. Has anyone come up with a way to keep the pushrod from interfering
with
> the aileron linkage if it comes loose at that end, or with the servo or
wingrib
> if it gets disconnected at the other end? A couple of ideas include
"hanging"
> each end of the tube with some light extension springs to hold it up and
away
> from stuff if it does come adrift? Or maybe an upsize on the rod ends to
#8
> + safety wires?
>
> Yeah, so I'm paranoid- anyone else?
>
> From The PossumWorks in TN
> Mark Phillips -6A 51PW & still grinnin'!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid pushrod safety |
Fiveonepw(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Howdy -list!
>
> Just installed my Navaid servo in the right wingtip similar to Bob Butler's
> installation outlined on Sam Buchannan's website:
> http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/navaid.html
> and after eyeballin' them itty-bitty #6 screws on the rod ends, I'm a tad
> nervous about what would happen if one of them were to let go- If either end
of
> the tube comes loose, you could be in for an interesting ride, to say the
> least. Has anyone come up with a way to keep the pushrod from interfering with
> the aileron linkage if it comes loose at that end, or with the servo or wingrib
> if it gets disconnected at the other end? A couple of ideas include "hanging"
> each end of the tube with some light extension springs to hold it up and away
> from stuff if it does come adrift? Or maybe an upsize on the rod ends to #8
> + safety wires?
>
> Yeah, so I'm paranoid- anyone else?
>
>>From The PossumWorks in TN
> Mark Phillips -6A 51PW & still grinnin'!
Grinnin' like a 'possum, eh?!
Yep, those screws do look very, very small. However, unless something
totally unanticipated or atypical happens, they are never under much
load. When the servo is powered down, the clutch has no drag. When the
servo is running, it is moving the ailerons a tiny amount. Biggest load
I can think of is if when we overpower the clutch by moving the stick
when the servo is energized. But even then the properly adjusted clutch
breaks loose with minimal effort.
Your idea about springs that would pull the pushrod up out of the way in
case a screw broke may have merit if you *really* want to eliminate all
possibility of jammed controls; the tricky part will be setting the
springs to be strong enough to raise the pushrod without adding loads to
the servo during normal ops. However,if a screw broke, more than likely
the pushrod would be under so much tension it would jam in spite of the
very light springs you are proposing.
As far as I know, broken pushrod screws have not been a problem with the
Navaid installation.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Brooks" <kenbrooks(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Rubber Cable Grommets |
I'm trying to seal up a 1 3/16" hole that has a 1/4" cable going through the
center and am having trouble locating the right size rubber grommet (Wicks,
ACS, etc.). Seems like the ones that fit the large bulkhead hole size all
have larger holes for the cable also (1/2"). Has anyone had any luck making
their own rubber grommets by cutting/punching out the right cable size hole
in the middle? Any suggestions would be appreciated. I'm trying to seal
well and look good too.
Ken Brooks
Roscoe, IL
RV-8 spaghetti everywhere
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harvey Sigmon" <rv6hes(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid pushrod safety |
Sam: What I did was put a glob of RTV on the nut so it could not turn, and
un screw.
Harvey Sigmon RV-6A N602RV
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Navaid pushrod safety
>
> Fiveonepw(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> >
> > Howdy -list!
> >
> > Just installed my Navaid servo in the right wingtip similar to Bob
Butler's
> > installation outlined on Sam Buchannan's website:
> > http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/navaid.html
> > and after eyeballin' them itty-bitty #6 screws on the rod ends, I'm a
tad
> > nervous about what would happen if one of them were to let go- If
either end of
> > the tube comes loose, you could be in for an interesting ride, to say
the
> > least. Has anyone come up with a way to keep the pushrod from
interfering with
> > the aileron linkage if it comes loose at that end, or with the servo or
wingrib
> > if it gets disconnected at the other end? A couple of ideas include
"hanging"
> > each end of the tube with some light extension springs to hold it up and
away
> > from stuff if it does come adrift? Or maybe an upsize on the rod ends
to #8
> > + safety wires?
> >
> > Yeah, so I'm paranoid- anyone else?
> >
> >>From The PossumWorks in TN
> > Mark Phillips -6A 51PW & still grinnin'!
>
>
> Grinnin' like a 'possum, eh?!
>
> Yep, those screws do look very, very small. However, unless something
> totally unanticipated or atypical happens, they are never under much
> load. When the servo is powered down, the clutch has no drag. When the
> servo is running, it is moving the ailerons a tiny amount. Biggest load
> I can think of is if when we overpower the clutch by moving the stick
> when the servo is energized. But even then the properly adjusted clutch
> breaks loose with minimal effort.
>
> Your idea about springs that would pull the pushrod up out of the way in
> case a screw broke may have merit if you *really* want to eliminate all
> possibility of jammed controls; the tricky part will be setting the
> springs to be strong enough to raise the pushrod without adding loads to
> the servo during normal ops. However,if a screw broke, more than likely
> the pushrod would be under so much tension it would jam in spite of the
> very light springs you are proposing.
>
> As far as I know, broken pushrod screws have not been a problem with the
> Navaid installation.
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | >Re; Rubber Cable Grommets |
How about a circle of aluminum and a hole in to fit the right size
grommet;then rivet the circle in place ?
Bob Olds -- RV-4 , N1191X
oldsfolks(at)aol.com
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid pushrod safety |
Harvey Sigmon wrote:
>
> Sam: What I did was put a glob of RTV on the nut so it could not turn, and
> un screw.
> Harvey Sigmon RV-6A N602RV
Harvey, that is certainly not a bad idea. I think Mark is more concerned
about the little bolts actually breaking from extreme overload.
I am almost certain I have nyloc nuts on the bolts in my plane. This is
another example of where the bolts should be pulled down tight so there
is no rotation of the bolt itself or the ball part of the bearing. All
rotation should be the rod end around the ball bearing.
Sam Buchanan
======================
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Navaid pushrod safety
>
>
>
>>
>>Fiveonepw(at)aol.com wrote:
>>
>>
>>>
>>>Howdy -list!
>>>
>>>Just installed my Navaid servo in the right wingtip similar to Bob
>
> Butler's
>
>>>installation outlined on Sam Buchannan's website:
>>>http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/navaid.html
>>>and after eyeballin' them itty-bitty #6 screws on the rod ends, I'm a
>
> tad
>
>>>nervous about what would happen if one of them were to let go- If
>
> either end of
>
>>>the tube comes loose, you could be in for an interesting ride, to say
>
> the
>
>>>least. Has anyone come up with a way to keep the pushrod from
>
> interfering with
>
>>>the aileron linkage if it comes loose at that end, or with the servo or
>
> wingrib
>
>>>if it gets disconnected at the other end? A couple of ideas include
>
> "hanging"
>
>>>each end of the tube with some light extension springs to hold it up and
>
> away
>
>>>from stuff if it does come adrift? Or maybe an upsize on the rod ends
>
> to #8
>
>>>+ safety wires?
>>>
>>>Yeah, so I'm paranoid- anyone else?
>>>
>>>>From The PossumWorks in TN
>>>Mark Phillips -6A 51PW & still grinnin'!
>>
>>
>>Grinnin' like a 'possum, eh?!
>>
>>Yep, those screws do look very, very small. However, unless something
>>totally unanticipated or atypical happens, they are never under much
>>load. When the servo is powered down, the clutch has no drag. When the
>>servo is running, it is moving the ailerons a tiny amount. Biggest load
>>I can think of is if when we overpower the clutch by moving the stick
>>when the servo is energized. But even then the properly adjusted clutch
>>breaks loose with minimal effort.
>>
>>Your idea about springs that would pull the pushrod up out of the way in
>>case a screw broke may have merit if you *really* want to eliminate all
>>possibility of jammed controls; the tricky part will be setting the
>>springs to be strong enough to raise the pushrod without adding loads to
>>the servo during normal ops. However,if a screw broke, more than likely
>>the pushrod would be under so much tension it would jam in spite of the
>>very light springs you are proposing.
>>
>>As far as I know, broken pushrod screws have not been a problem with the
>>Navaid installation.
>>
>>Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid pushrod safety |
In a message dated 3/24/2004 6:12:22 AM Pacific Standard Time,
Fiveonepw(at)aol.com writes:
Just installed my Navaid servo in the right wingtip similar to Bob Butler's
installation outlined on Sam Buchannan's website:
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/navaid.html
and after eyeballin' them itty-bitty #6 screws on the rod ends, I'm a tad
nervous about what would happen if one of them were to let go- If either end
of
the tube comes loose, you could be in for an interesting ride, to say the
least. Has anyone come up with a way to keep the pushrod from interfering
with
the aileron linkage if it comes loose at that end, or with the servo or
wingrib
if it gets disconnected at the other end? A couple of ideas include
"hanging"
each end of the tube with some light extension springs to hold it up and away
from stuff if it does come adrift? Or maybe an upsize on the rod ends to #8
+ safety wires?
Yeah, so I'm paranoid- anyone else?
================================
Mark-
I too was concerned with the small diameter of these 6-32 fasteners, but
ended up leaving them as is because I didn't want to increase the diameter of the
pushrod in that tight area. Just make sure that you have no binding
whatsoever at the full travel limits or else you could be contributing to cyclic
loading fatigue of these fasteners. There has been no problem in 685 hrs.
GV (RV-6A N1GV flying 685 hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
At 09:45 AM 3/23/2004, you wrote:
>
>< snipped piston part nums etc>There is an increase in the weight of these
>pistons though.
Does the added weight and power produced call for stronger rods?
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Navaid Servo Installation |
Hello Fellow Listers,
While we're on the subject of Autopilot Servos: I think that my installation
came out great. I don't have a website or any pictures of it, but while I
was building the right wing I fitted the servo into the bellcrank bay. My
pushrod is only about 4.125 inches long. I installed aluminum doublers and
nutplates on the forward side of the spar web. The doublers are to keep me from
worrying about the web cracking. There is room to get to the servo to adjust it
fairly easily, and it can be removed using an allen wrench. I had to cut off
two of the mounting ears and mount a plate across the bottom of the servo to
get it as far as possible from the bellcrank. A longer piece of aluminum tubing
was found and threaded for the 6-32 rod ends.
The linkage angles were calculated to give equal left and right travel of the
pushrod to the control sticks for equal servo travels from center. I only
had to drill a single hole through the lower side of the bellcrank to put a 5-40
screw for the pushrod pivot.
Maybe when I get time I can get some pictures.
Regards,
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (almost done)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
vansairforce
I just added the new Garmin 296 to the ePanel Builder!
www.epanelbuilder.com
More info: http://www.garmin.com/products/gpsmap296/
-Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid pushrod safety |
In a message dated 3/24/04 9:41:03 AM Central Standard Time, sbuc(at)hiwaay.net
writes:
> As far as I know, broken pushrod screws have not been a problem with the
> Navaid installation.
That's good news- perhaps I'm being too concerned about the extra weight of
50" of 5/8" tubing where the original design had that one little tube... My
completed pushrod wound up weighing about 9 ounces. By the way Sam- I'm getting
ready for pants- still recommend the Rocket stuff?
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV 7 Tip-UP Canopy Leak |
I haven't flown in the rain but when I wash the airplane I don't get any
water inside.
Cash Copeland
RV-6 Tip UP
In a message dated 3/24/2004 2:52:28 AM Pacific Standard Time,
jamespnolan(at)earthlink.net writes:
I've got to order the wing and fuselage for my RV-7 project and I need to
know if Van's has redesigned or fixed the problem with the Tip-UP canopy's
leaking water when it rained. I'd like to have a Tip-Up but if they still
require taping the front seam to keep rain out of the radios, I'll go with a
slider.
Jim Nolan
N444JN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid pushrod safety |
Fiveonepw(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 3/24/04 9:41:03 AM Central Standard Time, sbuc(at)hiwaay.net
> writes:
>
>
>>As far as I know, broken pushrod screws have not been a problem with the
>>Navaid installation.
>
>
> That's good news- perhaps I'm being too concerned about the extra weight of
> 50" of 5/8" tubing where the original design had that one little tube... My
> completed pushrod wound up weighing about 9 ounces. By the way Sam- I'm getting
> ready for pants- still recommend the Rocket stuff?
>
> Mark
Mark, there are now other venders beside Rocket, but the Team Rocket
fairings have held up well on my RV-6.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garry Legare <versadek(at)earthlink.net> |
Which reminds me, I've a 196 that I got about 4 months ago used it about
4 times, also have a King skymap111 that I just like better. So the 196
is for sale First $ 750. takes it. Please contact me off list.
Casper
Bill VonDane wrote:
>
>I just added the new Garmin 296 to the ePanel Builder!
>
>www.epanelbuilder.com
>
>More info: http://www.garmin.com/products/gpsmap296/
>
>-Bill
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JVanLaak(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid pushrod safety |
I was also uncomfortable with the installation, particularly the wimpy
control arm. I ended up upgrading the rod ends using some old pushrods I had around
and went to AN-3 bolts with locknuts. I had to fab a new control arm for the
servo, which took about 30 minutes, but now I am certain that there will be
no structural failure and no fouling. Just watch the clearances.
Jim Van Laak
RV-6 N79RL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Jason,
Although this is not universal, high current Voltage drop problems that
change with temperature are often due to carbon in a poor connection. The
connection changes as the temp changes. First thing would be to check the
contactors and the various connections.
Have a helper and do voltage drop checks at every connection and contactor.
A V-drop check is done best with a DVOM in V mode and just leap frog the
leads from point to point starting at Bat + and ending at bat -, cranking at
each check with the mags disabled/plug leads disconnected, but leave the
plugs in for cranking load. (be careful here, but if you have some good
quality long test leads its very doable, and the best way to diagnose the
problem) Anything other than the starter having more than .1 V-drop is a
problem although some cables are long enough and small enough to get up to
.5V drop.
My bat/mastersol/startersol/starter/eng gnd/bat gnd loop is 00 cable and is
less than 4ft total loop length. This weighs less than 2 lbs The trick to
using large cable is to keep it short.
If there is not significant V-drop, and the battery is good, then your
starter is the culprit, probably carbon in the commutator and or weak
brushes.
W
From: Jason Sneed <n242ds(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV-List: starter problem?
I need some help to diagnose a problem I am having. When my airplane
was built the builder did not think the battery had enough power for
the airplane because it did not spin the prop very fast for startup
although it usually would spin it enough for startup. The builder
installed a motorcycle battery in the luggage compartment for extra
power.
During the winter I had a time or two when the the starter or battery
just barley turned the prop and I had to jump the plane in one
occasion. I noticed the battery in the plane was old and I thought a
new one would fix the issue. I order a new odyssey battery and that
seemed to fix the problem. After about 30 hours of flying with the new
battery I decided to remove the 10 pound motorcycle battery from the
luggage compartment thinking I did not need it anymore. I flew another
5 hours (warm weather 70's) with no problem. two nights ago the low was
40 degrees down here in NW florida, yesterday it was about 55 when I
went flying, sure enough the starter/battery just barley turned the
prop enough for the engine to start. nothing drains the battery when
the master is off (no clock ect...) and the voltage on the battery is
12.8-12.9. With the alt on it shows about 14.4 volts. Does anyone have
any idea what my problem is? I only have trouble on the first start of
the day (my guess is that once the oil heats up it is MUCH easier to
start the engine.) Could I have a weak/bad starter (it is a lightweight
starter)? any ideas or things to check would be great.
Thanks,
Jason Sneed
Commercial Lending Officer
First National Bank and Trust
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cylinder Blocker |
In addition to Pat's thoughts I would add that the gap at the bottom of
cylinder head and barrel wrap baffles makes a significant difference in the
individual cylinder head temperatures. Kent Paser's book "Speed with
Economy went into this in depth.
I would advise caution in closing up the barrel porting of the baffle too
much since this area is not normally instrumented and I would have no idea
what the minimum dimension would be before high barrel temps might become a
problem.
Dick Sipp
RV4
RV10
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cylinder Blocker
>
> Hey Len,
>
> This seems to be a pattern in the RV's where the #3 cylinder runs much
> hotter than #1 and somewhat hotter than 2 & 4. The blocker baffle in
front
> of cylinder #1 seems to even everything up. You have just so much cooling
> air and I think the idea is to distribute it in the most efficient
way--keep
> CHT's even and in the 350 degree range in cruise and below 400 in the
climb.
> Beyond that, I think exit air area is the key, so if CHT's are still too
> high, I would begin trimming some of the lower cowl ramp area to increase
> exit air. Also, I believe you will get some success with smoothing out
the
> exit air flow by adding a rolling-pin shaped baffle on the lower firewall
> area as many have done.
>
> Pat Hatch
> RV-4
> RV-6
> RV-7 QB (Building)
> Vero Beach, FL
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Lenleg(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Cylinder Blocker
>
>
> >
> > In a message dated 3/5/2004 8:24:47 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> > pat_hatch(at)msn.com writes:
> >
> > > Kyle,
> > >
> > > I also had about a 40 degree difference between cylinders 1 &3 and
fixed
> it
> > > with the blocker as you describe.
> > >
> > > Here is a picture for reference.
> > >
> > > http://home.bellsouth.net/p/s/community.dll?ep=87&subpageid=134196&ck
> > > You can start with speed tape or something similar until you get the
> right
> > > size, but the size shown will get you pretty close.
> > >
> > > Pat Hatch
> > >
> >
> > Pat:
> >
> > I have a fairly large difference in CHT too but didn't know it was
> something
> > that needed to be addressed ... what is the deal?
> >
> > Thanks !!
> >
> > Len Leggette, RV-8A
> > Greensboro, NC N910LL
> > 218 hrs
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Sneed <n242ds(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | air-show is SW Florida |
If anyone is looking for a fun place to fly this weekend here is a good
air-show and you can fly to the airport. I plan on going Sat.
http://www.cwi-fl.org/intro.html
Jason Sneed
www.highland-parks.com/n242ds
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tacaruth(at)ralcorp.com |
03/25/2004 07:52:20 AM
Hi All,
I am at the stage of planning wire routing from the main spar to behind the
control panel on a 7A for antenna leads and other wiring. I was planning
on running the wires from the spar to the firewall under the F782C floor
cover and then up the firewall. My question is how to get around the
firewall recess. The floor cover needs to be removable so a hole with a
gromet would not work. Maybe a U-shaped slot with a gromet at the bottom
of the "U"? Would the wires then be attached to the firewall with wire
ties? Is this the preferred routing? Any help would be greatly
appreciated.
Thanks, Tom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wilder, Scott" <SWilder(at)LOWEENTERPRISES.com> |
Anyone have a lead on a -4 fuse jig in the SF bay area or norcal? Do not
archive
swilder(at)loweenterprises.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David L Ahrens <daviddla(at)juno.com> |
Hello to list members, Just a quick shameless plug to let you know that
their is a Pitot tube listed on e bay. It is a heated unit off of a 1973
Cessna 150L, 12 Volt working heater. I used a piece of stainless tubing
for my RV6A and I will not need this unit. The e bay number is
2469422076.
Thanks, David Ahrens
PS The first flight of my RV6A was Feb. 14, 2004. Just like everyone
saids, it is worth it, keep building.
RV6A, 0-320 and Sensenich metal propeller.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 3/25/04 7:35:30 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
daviddla(at)juno.com writes:
> PS The first flight of my RV6A was Feb. 14, 2004. Just like everyone
> saids, it is worth it, keep building.
>
> RV6A, 0-320 and Sensenich metal propeller.
>
>
Congratulations David!
And thanks for the encouragement. There must be lots of folks like me that
sure need it. I have been getting a little burned out trying to get this thing
done for the upcoming flying season.
Fly safely,
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
,
""
| Subject: | Fourth Annual SoCal Wing Fly-In, Chino, CA - May 15 & 16 |
Mark your calendars...May 15 & 16 at Chino, CA will be the Fourth Annual
SoCal Wing of Van's Air Force RV Fly-In, hosted by Dave "Hog" Klages (RV-8
N808DK) and the "Chino Power Squadron" of RVs.
http://www.rvproject.com/chino_flyin.html
That link will take you to all the info you need. C'mon out/up/down/over to
Chino on May 15 & 16 for a great time with a whole bunch of RV fanatics. Oh
yeah, and a little airshow, too... 8-) (Planes of Fame Museum Air Show)
To find Chino, just head toward the sound of a flight of RVs drowning out
the sound of a bunch of warbirds.
Hope to see you there!
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim and Bev Cone" <jimnbev(at)olypen.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dropped bucking bar--Need ding fix |
If the dent was made from the inside, the fix is easy. Just make the bump into
a dent, sand with 80 grit sandpaper, fill with Bondo and sand to contour. After
painting, it will not show.
Jim Cone
3-Peat offender
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Light Weight Starter |
vansairforce
Who has the best prices on the light weight / high torque starters these
days?
-Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Champion RV6-A For Sale |
2002 Champion Kit Plane award Oshkosh, 180 hp with new Hartzell blended
prop. IFR with Multi Function Display MX20, S-Tec auto pilot. TTSN 55
hours. $118,500
Awards:
Arlington, WA 2002-Champion Kit Plane
Oshkosh, WI 2002 Kit plane Champion- Lindy Award
This is a gorgeous airplane.
See it here
http://aocreative.com/airplane/
Contact Wally Anderson at info(at)synergyair.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack <jgh2(at)charter.net> |
For appearance and convenience reasons, I'm considering installing a
bent whip antenna under the fuselage of a VFR 6A slightly aft of the
main spar. However the proximity of the gear legs (~3' away) and the
antenna's 3.0 VSWR are of concern. Comments from those of you have
experience with a bent whip antenna mounted under the fuselage would be
appreciated.
Jack H.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dropped bucking bar--Need ding fix |
DON'T USE BONDO ! Unless you want to see a crack at its edges after aroound
100 hours...use Miracle Fill....mine hasn't come loose or shown edge lifting
in 9 years...Bondo has !!
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <rv3(at)comcast.net> |
Jack wrote:
>
>
>For appearance and convenience reasons, I'm considering installing a
>bent whip antenna under the fuselage of a VFR 6A slightly aft of the
>main spar. However the proximity of the gear legs (~3' away) and the
>antenna's 3.0 VSWR are of concern. Comments from those of you have
>experience with a bent whip antenna mounted under the fuselage would be
>appreciated.
>
>Jack H.
>
=========================================
Jack:
That is where I have a similar com antenna mounted.
Dunno what the VSWR is, but I have no trouble talking 100 miles air to
air on a 2 watt walkie-talkie.
Bob - N863WL - RV3
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net> |
| Subject: | hidden pitot tube |
A question for those of you in the know....I was looking at a Diamond aircraft
this morning and a friend pointed out that the pitot tube is completly hidden
in the leading edge of the wing...just a 1/4 hole!? Can this be done on an RV
wing? It would be cool to have no pitot sticking out in the wind, but I dont know
if the front of the leading edge is undisturbed air. It certainly is as it
passes over the leading edge. Instinct tells me that the air pressure would be
changed right at the leading edge and the airspeed readings would be inaccurate....but
Diamond does it. Hmmmmmm any thoughts?
Thanks ...Evan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clark, Thomas IFC" <Tom.Clark(at)UTCFuelCells.com> |
rv-list(at)matronics.com, vansairforce
| Subject: | CHT installation |
Group,
I am in the need for the bayonet inserts that screw into the cylinders on
the bottom of the Lycoming cylinders that hold the spring loaded CHT
thermocouples. Does anyone out there know a good source to obtain them? Is
there a Lycoming part number for them?
Thanks
Tom Clark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Trampas" <tstern(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | CHT installation |
Aircraft Spruce sells them part number on package says "CT03 CHT probe
(Bayonet)".
The invoice has description as "@64383 EFIS CHT Probe - Bayonet."
I will warn you that they are not cheap and they were back ordered for
several months.
Regards,
Trampas Stern
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Clark, Thomas IFC
Subject: RV-List: CHT installation
Group,
I am in the need for the bayonet inserts that screw into the cylinders on
the bottom of the Lycoming cylinders that hold the spring loaded CHT
thermocouples. Does anyone out there know a good source to obtain them? Is
there a Lycoming part number for them?
Thanks
Tom Clark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Birmingham" <mbirmham(at)flightline.com> |
"'vansairforce'"
We are about to install a VOR in our RV-6 and we hesitate to cut up the
vertical stab to install the Nav antenna. Has anyone attempted to install it
on the belly? Any other type of antenna available to the experimental market
that might do the job?
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 3/26/04 12:42:19 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
jgh2(at)charter.net writes:
>
>
> For appearance and convenience reasons, I'm considering installing a
> bent whip antenna under the fuselage of a VFR 6A slightly aft of the
> main spar. However the proximity of the gear legs (~3' away) and the
> antenna's 3.0 VSWR are of concern. Comments from those of you have
> experience with a bent whip antenna mounted under the fuselage would be
> appreciated.
>
> Jack H.
>
>
Jack,
The SWR may be OK in the air. The proximity to the ground may be causing it
to be high.
Dan Hopper K9WEK
RV-7A (almost done)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)rogers.com> |
Jack
I have a bent whip antenna under my 4, just slightly aft of the gear and
have had no problems. I get many comments on how good the radio is (val)
and have talked to people over a hundred miles away at 1000ft.
Joe Hine
RV4 C-FYTQ
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jack
Subject: RV-List: Com Antenna
For appearance and convenience reasons, I'm considering installing a
bent whip antenna under the fuselage of a VFR 6A slightly aft of the
main spar. However the proximity of the gear legs (~3' away) and the
antenna's 3.0 VSWR are of concern. Comments from those of you have
experience with a bent whip antenna mounted under the fuselage would be
appreciated.
Jack H.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net> |
I'm a believer. Great strength on the ground, and the best range in
the air.
6A with bottom bent whip. It is in midst of baggage compartment.
On Mar 26, 2004, at 4:57 PM, Joe Hine wrote:
>
> Jack
>
> I have a bent whip antenna under my 4, just slightly aft of the gear
> and
> have had no problems. I get many comments on how good the radio is
> (val)
> and have talked to people over a hundred miles away at 1000ft.
>
> Joe Hine
> RV4 C-FYTQ
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jack
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Com Antenna
>
>
> For appearance and convenience reasons, I'm considering installing a
> bent whip antenna under the fuselage of a VFR 6A slightly aft of the
> main spar. However the proximity of the gear legs (~3' away) and the
> antenna's 3.0 VSWR are of concern. Comments from those of you have
> experience with a bent whip antenna mounted under the fuselage would be
> appreciated.
>
> Jack H.
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Comeaux" <mcomeaux(at)bendnet.com> |
Is there any other manufactures of cowlings similar to the James Aircraft with
the small round openings & plenum?
Mike Comeaux
mcomeaux(at)bendnet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GRGSCHMIDT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: hidden pitot tube |
For your information, Cessna did this on the Pressurized Skymaster also, but
they installed the pitot holes in the leading edge of the wing strut and it
works fine. In addition to the unconventional pitot source it is also heated and
certified for IFR operations.
Whether or not it would be satisfactory on an RV wing is questionable.
Greg Schmidt
RV6S N250GS
Flying PHX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 03/26/2004 1:37:28 PM Pacific Standard Time,
mbirmham(at)flightline.com writes:
We are about to install a VOR in our RV-6 and we hesitate to cut up the
vertical stab to install the Nav antenna. Has anyone attempted to install it
on the belly? Any other type of antenna available to the experimental market
that might do the job?
Thanks
Contact Bob Archer at bobsantennas(at)earthlink.com
Or call him at 310-316-8796.
Jim Ayers
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-List Skidding |
| From: | smoothweasel(at)juno.com |
Hey Guys, Is it possible to have a plane flying in a skid ( sideways )
with the turn coordinator ball in the center????
I have already checked that the instrument was installed level to the
aircraft. Any ideas??? Fairings out of line????
Weasel Graber
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gould, Richard AE1 NAVTESTWINGPAC 561000E" <richard.j.gould(at)navy.mil> |
> Anyone have a lead on a -4 fuse jig in the SF bay area or norcal? Do not
> archive
I have one down here in the Ventura area. I'll be transferring up to WA, and might
be able to bring it with me, but that wouldn't be until October. Or, you can
meet me half-way in the Fresno area in July, and I could bring it with me when
I hit the High Sierras. Email me off-list if interested.
Rick Gould
RV-4 Camarillo, CA
FLY NAVY!
__I__
--O--O--( )--O--O--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net (Chris Brooks) |
| Subject: | Re: hidden pitot tube |
Are you sure the hole is for pitot? The Katana has a hole in the leading
edge for stall indication. The Pitot is a blade under the wing.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Skidding |
I think the answer is no, it can not, unless the ball is stuck or not
functioning correctly, but I'm no expert.
You may want to experiment with a yaw string however to get a second opinion
from your turn coordinator. A yaw string is simply a short piece of string
secured on the centerline of your fuselage that is visible from inside. If
the airplane is slipping the string will angle off to the side indicating
the centerline of the plane is not lined up with the slipstream. Just my two
cents worth. Something to try.
Steve Struyk
RV-8, wiring antennas, waiting for avionics.
St. Charles, MO
----- Original Message -----
From: <smoothweasel(at)juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV-List Skidding
>
> Hey Guys, Is it possible to have a plane flying in a skid ( sideways )
> with the turn coordinator ball in the center????
> I have already checked that the instrument was installed level to the
> aircraft. Any ideas??? Fairings out of line????
>
> Weasel Graber
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Skidding |
Steve Struyk wrote:
> You may want to experiment with a yaw string however to get a second opinion
> from your turn coordinator. A yaw string is simply a short piece of string
> secured on the centerline of your fuselage that is visible from inside. If
> the airplane is slipping the string will angle off to the side indicating
> the centerline of the plane is not lined up with the slipstream. Just my two
> cents worth. Something to try.
Careful where you place it, though... If it's on the deck in front of the
canopy, you could get slipstream effects from the propellor, which would
push it to one side. Also, if it's too close to the canopy, you could get
effects from the stagnation point at the intersection of the canopy and the
deck.
The best place I would suggest would be on the canopy over the rear seat
passenger (far enough back to minimize slipstream yet still be visible).
-Rob P.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Skidding |
In a message dated 3/27/04 10:13:17 AM US Eastern Standard Time, rv7(at)b4.ca
writes:
>
>
> Steve Struyk wrote:
> >You may want to experiment with a yaw string however to get a second
> opinion
> >from your turn coordinator. A yaw string is simply a short piece of string
> >secured on the centerline of your fuselage that is visible from inside. If
> >the airplane is slipping the string will angle off to the side indicating
> >the centerline of the plane is not lined up with the slipstream. Just my
> two
> >cents worth. Something to try.
>
> Careful where you place it, though... If it's on the deck in front of the
> canopy, you could get slipstream effects from the propellor, which would
> push it to one side. Also, if it's too close to the canopy, you could get
> effects from the stagnation point at the intersection of the canopy and the
> deck.
>
> The best place I would suggest would be on the canopy over the rear seat
> passenger (far enough back to minimize slipstream yet still be visible).
>
> -Rob P.
>
Rob makes a good point. A yaw string seems pretty simple. There was one on
the T-33s that I worked on back in the 60s. But wait a minute, that was a
jet! I am under the impression that the prop causes the air over the whole
fuselage to rotate, hence the need for vertical stab offset. Uh oh, I hope this
doesn't start anything.
Dan
RV-7A (almost done)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Skidding |
Steve and Weasel
The yaw string will work fine on a pusher, sailplane, or conventional twin,
but I am very doubtful that it will give a true indication on a tractor due
to the prop swirl effect. Does the turn coordinator have a true ball in a
liquid filled curved glass tube or is it a ball "symbol" hanging from a
pivot shaft in the instrument ?
Dean Van Winkle
RV-9A Fuselage/Finish
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-List Skidding
>
> I think the answer is no, it can not, unless the ball is stuck or not
> functioning correctly, but I'm no expert.
>
> You may want to experiment with a yaw string however to get a second
opinion
> from your turn coordinator. A yaw string is simply a short piece of string
> secured on the centerline of your fuselage that is visible from inside. If
> the airplane is slipping the string will angle off to the side indicating
> the centerline of the plane is not lined up with the slipstream. Just my
two
> cents worth. Something to try.
>
> Steve Struyk
> RV-8, wiring antennas, waiting for avionics.
> St. Charles, MO
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <smoothweasel(at)juno.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: RV-List Skidding
>
>
> >
> > Hey Guys, Is it possible to have a plane flying in a skid ( sideways )
> > with the turn coordinator ball in the center????
> > I have already checked that the instrument was installed level to the
> > aircraft. Any ideas??? Fairings out of line????
> >
> > Weasel Graber
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6/6A canopy headroom and headsets |
I am finally at the point where I can raise and lower a (nearly)
finished tip-up canopy AND can install the seat cushions just delivered
to me from D.J. Lauritsen. (She does nice work, BTW.) I'm very normal
size - about 5' 10" and was surprised at how little room there is
between the top of my head and the canopy. Probably less than 2
inches. I certainly wouldn't want to sit lower than this for visibility
reasons. With D.J.'s booster cushion installed, there's less than an
inch, but I like the visibility. (I remember that Van's tips for
landing an RV advise pilots to sit as high in the saddle as possible.)
This was all done with the seat all the way back, which helps a bit.
I then looked at my old David Clark headset and realized it would
definitely be rubbing against the canopy because the "bridge" piece that
goes across the top of my head is more than an inch thick. The
references in the archives to headroom seem to mostly be from people who
haven't picked which plane to build yet.
So for those of you who are flying, here's the question: Do you use
headsets with very thin bridges? Which ones? Or do you all have
scratches on your canopies above your head?
On the plus side, a low canopy is probably one the reasons these things
go so fast. There's lots of compromises in an airplane design.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, Canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 3/26/04 1:37:22 PM Pacific Standard Time,
mbirmham(at)flightline.com writes:
<< We are about to install a VOR in our RV-6 and we hesitate to cut up the
vertical stab to install the Nav antenna. Has anyone attempted to install it
on the belly? Any other type of antenna available to the experimental market
that might do the job?
Thanks >>
Have you considered the Bob Archer wing tip VOR antenna (installs internally
in the fiberglass wing tips)? All the users reports I have seen are positive
for this unit, check the archives.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, final assembly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVEIGHTA(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | IO-360 Engine problem |
All, my IO-360 has begun to run strange at low rpm after it has warmed up. I
noticed this when taxiing into the FBO yesterday - the engine would run
smooth, then it would drop rpm then pick back up again. At any thing above about
1200-1300 rpm the engine is fine.
Any thoughts about what could be the cause? Improper idle mixture adjustment
maybe? The engine should show a slight rise in rpm when the mixture lever is
brought back to idle cutoff, but doesn't, which is an indicator of idle
mixture problem (I think).
Walt Shipley RV-8A 81 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Rob Ray ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Rob Ray
Subject: Backcountry RV4
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/smokyray@yahoo.com.03.27.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
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If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
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Email the information above and your files and photos to:
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Rob Ray ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Rob Ray
Subject: Two Best RV's...
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/smokyray@yahoo.com.1.03.27.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
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If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
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Email the information above and your files and photos to:
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March 17, 2004 - March 27, 2004
RV-Archive.digest.vol-pb