RV-Archive.digest.vol-pe

April 09, 2004 - April 21, 2004



From: "Mills, Trevor R" <MillsTR(at)az1.bp.com>
Subject: Governor from travellair
> > In my search for the right engine at the right price, I found one out of a travellair (O-360 A1A) > coming from a twin it has a governor on it, can anyone tell me if it is OK for one of Vans hartzell's. > as this would sweeten the deal for me. > > Thanks > Trevor Mills 80605 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 09, 2004
From: Hal / Carol Kempthorne <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Glareshield vinyl - good/bad ?
Talk to Cee Bailey Plastics - they strongly talk against any vinyl and acrylic saying it can crack a windshield in less than a year. they include a specail warning with each acrylic window they ship. hal At 06:13 PM 4/9/2004, you wrote: > >I purchased Cleaveland Aircraft Tool gareshield material (vinyl), but has >since heard that it may out-gas and be bad for the canopy. Is there any body >out there with actual bad experience, or is this just theoretical ? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: FAB
Date: Apr 10, 2004
Thanks for all the input on the filtered air box. With the prop back on the plane, I see I can easily get the cowl off/on with the FAB shortened to 15.75 inches. That's the good news. The bad news is the clearance between the FAB and the cowl air scoop. The left side of the FAB is nearly touching the cowl. One guy said this was not an unusual problem. The best solution I can think of is to fabricate another mounting plate, moving everything over a 1/2". This will put the filter and opening for the carb off center with the base of the carb. I don't think that will create any problems. Do you? Anyone else have to do this? Thanks, - Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 09, 2004
From: jamesbaldwin(at)attglobal.net
Subject: RV4 wingtip lens
Anyone - Who sells a larger dimension wingtip lens kit for my HID landing/nav/strobe light setup? I was going to cut a hole in the leading edge for the old style landing light but now that the HID lights are available I could fit the whole arrangement into a larger lens. The old Van's kit I bought years ago isn't quite big enough nor is the new fiberglass kit he has. Ideas? Thanks. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 10, 2004
From: Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: FAB
I just got done fixing this. The FAB didn't quite touch the cowl, but after 10 hours I found a fair amount of rubbing on the left side of the FAB. I cut out the offending area and re-glassed a little indentation in the FAB. Probably easier than making a new mounting plate. Jeff Point RV-6 flying, 12 hrs now Milwaukee WI Larry Bowen wrote: > >Thanks for all the input on the filtered air box. With the prop back on >the plane, I see I can easily get the cowl off/on with the FAB shortened >to 15.75 inches. > >That's the good news. The bad news is the clearance between the FAB and >the cowl air scoop. The left side of the FAB is nearly touching the >cowl. One guy said this was not an unusual problem. The best solution >I can think of is to fabricate another mounting plate, moving everything >over a 1/2". This will put the filter and opening for the carb off >center with the base of the carb. I don't think that will create any >problems. Do you? Anyone else have to do this? > > >Thanks, > >- >Larry Bowen >Larry(at)BowenAero.com >http://BowenAero.com > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Harvey Sigmon" <rv6hes(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: FAB
Date: Apr 10, 2004
Larry: I had a similar problem on my last RV, what I did was elongate the holes on the mounting plate so I could slip the fab box over to align with the cowl. Hope this helps. Harvey Sigmon RV-6A N602RV ----- Original Message ----- From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> Subject: RV-List: FAB > > Thanks for all the input on the filtered air box. With the prop back on > the plane, I see I can easily get the cowl off/on with the FAB shortened > to 15.75 inches. > > That's the good news. The bad news is the clearance between the FAB and > the cowl air scoop. The left side of the FAB is nearly touching the > cowl. One guy said this was not an unusual problem. The best solution > I can think of is to fabricate another mounting plate, moving everything > over a 1/2". This will put the filter and opening for the carb off > center with the base of the carb. I don't think that will create any > problems. Do you? Anyone else have to do this? > > > Thanks, > > - > Larry Bowen > Larry(at)BowenAero.com > http://BowenAero.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ronnie Brown" <romott(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: RE: RV-Liist Catto Props
Date: Apr 10, 2004
I have a Catto three blade on my Velocity and have been extremely pleased with the quality and ruggedness. (Stuff tends to go through the rear mounted prop!) IMHO, a better value than the Performance props and tougher too. Craig Catto builds props for some of the Reno air racers. And I believe there is at least one Velocity/Lycoming IO540 with a Catto on it. See http://www.cattoprops.com/ . I would think the RV10 would do just fine with a fixed pitch Catto on it. And at 1/5 the cost and complexity of a constant speed prop, might be worth it! Ronnie Brown From: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> Subject: RE: RV-List: Catto Props You're putting a fixed pitch prop on an IO-540? In a -10? Mike Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR 13B in gestation mode At 12:29 2004-04-08, you wrote: > > >I flew an RV-9A with a Catto prop for a while. I will be putting one on my >RV-10. > >Sincerely, > >Noel Simmons ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Huft" <rv8tor(at)lazy8.net>
Subject: Re: Glareshield vinyl - good/bad ?
Date: Apr 10, 2004
I also purchased this material, put it on, and have had no problems in 1 1/2 years it has been on. John Huft RV8 flying ----- Original Message ----- From: "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan(at)hotmail.com> Subject: RV-List: Glareshield vinyl - good/bad ? > > I purchased Cleaveland Aircraft Tool gareshield material (vinyl), but has > since heard that it may out-gas and be bad for the canopy. Is there any body > out there with actual bad experience, or is this just theoretical ? > > Thanks, > Amit. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Noel Strong" <nstrong01(at)msn.com>
Subject: Questions about Fradulent Engine Builder
Date: Apr 10, 2004
As a late response to the question about the Fraudulent Engine Builder. Whenever I want to learn something about a company/individual/products, I do a quick web search. I will go to Google. Type the individual/company full name in quotes in the search window i.e.: "First Middle Last". And many times items show up. Since there is no way to validate the posting without further research, including contacting the person who posted the original information you might want to view the information with a "grain of salt". In this case, you may find a posting. Check it out. You will not have the same results using the MSN search engine. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com>
Subject: Re: Glareshield vinyl - good/bad ?
Date: Apr 10, 2004
Amit, if you're talking about the edging, I installed it four years ago and with 368 hrs no problem or any sign of outgassing (scummy film on the windscreen) whatsoever. Randy Lervold RV-8 sold RV-3B building (www.romeolima.com/RV3factory) ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Huft" <rv8tor(at)lazy8.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: Glareshield vinyl - good/bad ? > > I also purchased this material, put it on, and have had no problems in 1 1/2 > years it has been on. > > John Huft > RV8 flying > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan(at)hotmail.com> > To: > Subject: RV-List: Glareshield vinyl - good/bad ? > > > > > > I purchased Cleaveland Aircraft Tool gareshield material (vinyl), but has > > since heard that it may out-gas and be bad for the canopy. Is there any > body > > out there with actual bad experience, or is this just theoretical ? > > > > Thanks, > > Amit. > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 10, 2004
Subject: Re: Alternator belt size
Amit, NAPA (Gates) PREMIUM XL 25-7350. Dan Hopper RV-7A (almost done) In a message dated 4/9/04 8:12:42 PM US Eastern Standard Time, amitdagan(at)hotmail.com writes: > > > If there is anybody out there with an 0-360 (9 and 3/4" pully) and Vans > 60Amp aternator, > could you please tell me which size belt you found best fits this combo? > > Thanks, > Amit. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
Subject: Re: FAB
Date: Apr 10, 2004
Larry, Just got done doing this on my RV6-A with 0360-A1A and it works great! Another plus is you now have a straighter shot of air to the air box......less bends more performance!! Tom in Ohio ----- Original Message ----- From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> Subject: RV-List: FAB > > > The best solution > I can think of is to fabricate another mounting plate, moving everything > over a 1/2". This will put the filter and opening for the carb off > center with the base of the carb. I don't think that will create any > problems. Do you? Anyone else have to do this? > > > Thanks, > > - > Larry Bowen > Larry(at)BowenAero.com > http://BowenAero.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "jgburns" <jgburns(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Rotary Engine Discussions at Sun 'n Fun
Date: Apr 10, 2004
Some rotary engine enthusiasts plan on meeting in the Sun 'n Fun engine forum tent next Tuesday and Saturday (12:30 to 1:30). While you're likely to find someone around the engine forum tent each day during the event, two times were set aside to discuss rotary engine subsystem issues. Please share your knowledge, questions, and concerns. For more information check out this webpage: http://mywebpages.comcast.net/jgburns/Engine/Sun-n-fun-rotary.html and http://www.rotaryaviation.com/events.html Cheers, John Burns Albuquerque, NM RV-7A QB ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rvsearey(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 10, 2004
Subject: Re: Legal IFR panel w/ Dynon?
Scott, I just went through the process of getting new operating limitations for my RV-4. (I needed exact wording to include IFR). If you go to the EAA web site you will find a sample letter with the exact wording necessary to get the new limitations. The FAA person I worked with did not have any experience with experimentals and he said I actually did all the work for him. He did want to look at the aircraft (although the 8130 handbook specifically states an inspection is not necessary), but it was just a quick look see to assure him that the aircraft was appropriately equipped. All in all it was pretty painless. Dan Decker RV-4 Flying and just sold. Received RV-7 tail kit one week later. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 10, 2004
Subject: [ Bob Olds ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Bob Olds Subject: Two more of the Very Best RV's http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/Oldsfolks@aol.com.04.10.2004/index.html o Main Photo Share Index http://www.matronics.com/photoshare o Submitting a Photo Share If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the following information along with your email message and files: 1) Email List or Lists that they are related to: 2) Your Full Name: 3) Your Email Address: 4) One line Subject description: 5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic: 6) One-line Description of each photo or file: Email the information above and your files and photos to: pictures(at)matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Nick N" <rvator(at)nicknaf.com>
Subject: Glareshield vinyl - good/bad ?
Date: Apr 10, 2004
As long as it doesn't actually touch the canopy you should be fine. We have a Glasair locally that has a padded vinyl glare shield, with the first 1"-2" pushed up against the canopy. Now whether from heat (the vinyl is black) or out-gassing I don't know, but he has micro cracks everywhere the vinyl touches. Needless to say, he's not a happy camper. FWIW, the airplanes aprox 3 years old and the cracks started about 1.5 years ago. Nick -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Amit Dagan Subject: RV-List: Glareshield vinyl - good/bad ? I purchased Cleaveland Aircraft Tool gareshield material (vinyl), but has since heard that it may out-gas and be bad for the canopy. Is there any body out there with actual bad experience, or is this just theoretical ? Thanks, Amit. = = = = ________________________________________________________________________________
From: CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 10, 2004
Subject: Fuel tank leaks
Hello all, Because of my quest for an RV I have been lurking to learn what I could. Now it would seem I have a question that some may be able to address. I have found an RV-4 (finished in 1991) with a fuel tank that appears to be . leaking at the rivits. In the past I had a Cherokee with this same problem and the fix was to send the tanks off for resealing. I would assume that the same could be done to the RV tank as well as building or buy a new tank or ?? I am thinking that the old tank would be a mess to deal with. Any input ? Thanks Sal Capra Lakeland, FL My Home Page http://hometown.aol.com/cbrxxdrv/index.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel tank leaks
Date: Apr 10, 2004
Fixing a problem tank would be much less work than building a new one. There are numerous suggestions in the RV list archives on how to fix a leaking tank. KB ----- Original Message ----- From: <CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com> Subject: RV-List: Fuel tank leaks > > Hello all, > > Because of my quest for an RV I have been lurking to learn what I could. > Now it would seem I have a question that some may be able to address. > I have found an RV-4 (finished in 1991) with a fuel tank that appears to be . > leaking at the rivits. > In the past I had a Cherokee with this same problem and the fix was to send > the tanks off for resealing. I would assume that the same could be done to the > RV tank > as well as building or buy a new tank or ?? I am thinking that the old tank > would be a mess to deal with. > > Any input ? > > Thanks > > Sal Capra > Lakeland, FL > My Home Page > http://hometown.aol.com/cbrxxdrv/index.html > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Harvey Sigmon" <rv6hes(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel tank leaks
Date: Apr 10, 2004
Sal: The thing to consider with buying an older RV is the tanks, back in the early 90's we used tank sealer and then used a sloshing solution. This stuff can be a problem when you have to do repairs, this slosh has a white plastic appearance and is hard like plastic. Van quit using it a few years ago, myself I would replace the tanks, I think there are people that repair the tanks by cutting access plates in each bay at the rear bulkhead. Big project. I hope this helps. Harvey Sigmon RV-6A N602RV ----- Original Message ----- From: <CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com> Subject: RV-List: Fuel tank leaks > > Hello all, > > Because of my quest for an RV I have been lurking to learn what I could. > Now it would seem I have a question that some may be able to address. > I have found an RV-4 (finished in 1991) with a fuel tank that appears to be . > leaking at the rivits. > In the past I had a Cherokee with this same problem and the fix was to send > the tanks off for resealing. I would assume that the same could be done to the > RV tank > as well as building or buy a new tank or ?? I am thinking that the old tank > would be a mess to deal with. > > Any input ? > > Thanks > > Sal Capra > Lakeland, FL > My Home Page > http://hometown.aol.com/cbrxxdrv/index.html > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 10, 2004
From: Warren W Hurd <warren(at)ahyup.com>
Subject: Fast Day
I will try and keep this simple, I am building an RV and I joined the local EAA chapter... They elected me president. Well, I decided to have a fly-in on Fast Day. The term fast day comes from not eating on a particular day up here in New Hampshire, but I have a tendency to interpret it differently. We do not have a lot to offer just a 6000 foot runway and a clean rest room. We hope to have a barbecue, one of our members has a barbecue on a trailer that he may bring. No rain date, but we do have a ILS so if the weather is lousy we will see if any IFR folk show up. As an added attraction if the weather is real nice some rather proficient RC builders will give a demo. This would even include the mowing of some grass with a helicopter using its rotor blades. (I have yet to see it done). This is not an RV flyin, the New England RV chapter will be holding their fly in on June 12th. So invite anybody that feels like flying to come on by. As a disclaimer the EAA says I should not encourage anybody to fly fast on Fast Day as it could be considered racing. So be mellow and take it easy. As a side note Fast day was started in 1681, to help the health of the governor back then. Well he died. The holiday had continued for several hundred years. So stop by and have a bite to eat on Fast Day. More at http://www.ahyup.com/fast/ Warren Hurd Still working on the wings http://www.ahyup.com 90454 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JhnstnIII(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 10, 2004
Subject: Re: Stick - panel interference
Listers--I am posting this in case it will help others avoid a problem. We are building an RV-6. We built a 2 1/2 inch sub panel all the way across the bottom of the instrument panel (to get more panel space). The sub panel surface is in the same plane as the main panel surface (ie., not inset forward). The stick grips we ordered had a forward angle to them. We discovered to our dismay that with the sticks at their forward limit, the stick grips interfered with things on the subpanel Iike the ignition key on the left side and the mixture control knob on the right side. We are now ordering straight grips (Ray Allens) that should solve the problem. Suggest if you are installing a subpanel that you set it forward and be careful about stick intererfence, especially with grips that angle forward. We had already shortened our sticks and although we tweaked the stick positions there was not enough adjustment available to allow us to keep our original stick grips. --LeRoy Johnston/Dave White RV-6 project, Columbus OH. Finishing panel wiring, engine/cowl is next. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 10, 2004
From: Matt Jurotich <mjurotich(at)hst.nasa.gov>
Subject: HID Upgrade ?
I recently purchased the HID upgrade kit from Duckworks. There is a key (slot) in the replacement mounting bracket. I assume this key is blue side up (toward top of wing). Anybody know for sure? Don and Janet have not answered me and the instructions are not crystal clear. Matthew M. Jurotich NASA/Goddard Space Flight Center JWST ISIM Systems Engineer m/c : 443 e-mail mailto: mjurotich(at)hst.nasa.gov phone : 301-286-5919 fax : 301-286-7021 JWST URL: <http://ngst1.gsfc.nasa.gov> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: FATKORAT(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 10, 2004
Subject: RV-8 U-803 Bolts
While attempting to torque the bolts through the U-803 Outside Gear Mounting Bracket I discovered 2 problems. First one of the 2 brackets has much more than the prescribed .030 clearance over the wear plate. Is this a problem? Second, the NAS 6206-27 Bolt has only .390 of thread and the prescribed AN 365-624A Locking nut is .450 thick. Thus, the bolt will never engage the nylon locking portion of the bolt. Has anyone else had this problem? Bob Gibbons RV-8 ALMOST on Gear. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fiveonepw(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 10, 2004
Subject: Re: Stick - panel interference
Listers--I am posting this in case it will help others avoid a problem. We are building an RV-6. We built a 2 1/2 inch sub panel all the way across the bottom of the instrument panel (to get more panel space). The sub panel surface is in the same plane as the main panel surface (ie., not inset forward). The stick grips we ordered had a forward angle to them. We discovered to our dismay that with the sticks at their forward limit, the stick grips interfered with things on the subpanel Iike the ignition key on the left side and the mixture control knob on the right side. We are now ordering straight grips (Ray Allens) that should solve the problem. Another option is to just shorten the sticks- I had the same condition with my CH Products sticks and simply cut the tubes an inch shorter- actually they are still a tad tall & they might get shorter yet! FWIW my sub panel IS inset 1.5" and is 1.5" tall- all cable controls reside there... From The PossumWorks in TN Mark -6A N51PW ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com>
Subject: Anyone heard of an RV-4 w/ an O-290 on it ?
Date: Apr 10, 2004
Okay experts (and the rest of you), Has anyone ever heard of an RV-4 with an O-290 mounted on the nose? Will the same conical mount for the O-320 work for the O-290 also? How does an RV-4 fly (take-off, cruise, aerobatics, landing wise) with less than 150 HP ? Thanks, in advance, for all replies. Chuck ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Shemp" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Oil/gas leak out of Bendix Servo
Date: Apr 10, 2004
Im wondering if anyone has seen this before. I have a Bendix fi servo and Ive noticed some liquid seeping out of the bottom of the servo on the top of the fab mounting plate upon shutdown. The air cleaner also seems awful dark looking thru the fiberglass, oil? I call it a "liquid" because I cant determine what it is. It seems to be a mix of oil and fuel but I gave up on my rotax a long time ago:) Its a blueish thick oilly mess. It also drips out of the bottom of the fab. I dont know what to make of it. Thanks Jeff Dowling RV-6a/ 58 hours Chicago/ Louisville ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Shemp" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel tank leaks
Date: Apr 10, 2004
Look in one of the most recent RV-ators. There is a guy who will build your tanks for you. Sounds like it may be worth the cost if you dont want to mess with the mess. Jeff ----- Original Message ----- From: <CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com> Subject: RV-List: Fuel tank leaks > > Hello all, > > Because of my quest for an RV I have been lurking to learn what I could. > Now it would seem I have a question that some may be able to address. > I have found an RV-4 (finished in 1991) with a fuel tank that appears to be . > leaking at the rivits. > In the past I had a Cherokee with this same problem and the fix was to send > the tanks off for resealing. I would assume that the same could be done to the > RV tank > as well as building or buy a new tank or ?? I am thinking that the old tank > would be a mess to deal with. > > Any input ? > > Thanks > > Sal Capra > Lakeland, FL > My Home Page > http://hometown.aol.com/cbrxxdrv/index.html > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Oil/gas leak out of Bendix Servo
Date: Apr 11, 2004
> Im wondering if anyone has seen this before. > > I have a Bendix fi servo and Ive noticed some liquid seeping > out of the bottom of the servo on the top of the fab mounting > plate upon shutdown. The air cleaner also seems awful dark > looking thru the fiberglass, oil? I call it a "liquid" > because I cant determine what it is. It seems to be a mix of > oil and fuel but I gave up on my rotax a long time ago:) Its > a blueish thick oilly mess. It also drips out of the bottom > of the fab. I dont know what to make of it. Was your engine pickled prior to being started? If so, I suspect what you are finding is induction oil from the pickling that is being washed down to the FAB with priming. It seems that mine did that for a couple hundred hours. The pickling oil sort of turns waxy, and does not run or weep by itself. Since no fuel is being sucked up the induction system, the only time it gets washed is by prime running down. Do you have small holes on the bottom of the FAB, both inside and outside the filter? The hole inside will drain the goo you talk about, and the hole outside will drain water. I found that the oily stuff attacks the fiberglass of the FAB, and after about 400 hours I needed to put some new layers of glass on the bottom inside of the FAB. You may want to proseal on a fitting on the hole which is inside the filter, and connect it to a little drain line to bring the slime to the back of the cooling air exit. Otherwise, it seems to lubricate the nose gear fairing. Don't use any fitting which will have a part inside the filter! Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN RV6-A N66AP 454 hours http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVEIGHTA(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 11, 2004
Subject: Re: Catto Props
Harry, I have a Catto three blade prop on my RV-8A (IO-360 180 hp). I've been very happy with the prop and with Craig. Walt Shipley ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Anyone heard of an RV-4 w/ an O-290 on it ?
Date: Apr 11, 2004
Don Simmons Redding California has the set up you describe. He is now pulling the O-290 and installling an O-320. I flew in formation with Don about 6 years ago to the Scappoose RV Fly-In from Redding. The airplane is very very light and flew well but was not very fast. I was running about 22 squared to go the same speed. Don's RV-4 has twice had photos of it in flight published by Van. Not sure if it was the calendar and RVATOR or the RVATOR both times. Yes the same conical mount will work. Did everything an O-320 does at particial power. Yes it will do aerobatics. Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, 1,451 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com ----Original Message Follows---- From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> Subject: RV-List: Anyone heard of an RV-4 w/ an O-290 on it ? Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2004 20:49:37 -0700 Okay experts (and the rest of you), Has anyone ever heard of an RV-4 with an O-290 mounted on the nose? Will the same conical mount for the O-320 work for the O-290 also? How does an RV-4 fly (take-off, cruise, aerobatics, landing wise) with less than 150 HP ? Thanks, in advance, for all replies. Chuck ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com>
Subject: EVO F1 Rocket (long winded as usual)
Date: Apr 11, 2004
Hello from soggy Central Texas.... I was in Burnett Texas for the annual BlueBonnet Airshow. First the Bad news, The airshow rained out, and Howard Pardue fliped his Wildcat. The good news is, Howard only got a scratch on the head, the airplane damage is as little as could be expected for a roll over, and I GOT TO FLY THE EVO ROCKET! Mark Fredrick was at there with the Falcon Flight and they performed the opening, and pretty much closing ceremonies. It started raining while Falcon Flight was flying during the national anthem and poured the rest of the afteroon. In the Morning after begging, pleading, groveling, and general sucking up on my part, Mark offered to let me fly the new wing. What a machine!!!!! Marcel Dassault said, "For an airplane to fly well, it must look good." Well the EVO Rocket is off to a good start, the new wing looks great on the airplane. It has much better lines than the traditional Rocket which, I think, "looks" like the wing is too short. I have always thought the RV-3 had the best lines in the RV- series and thought the Rocket looked better than that when viewed on the ground. All the RV's look like Cherokees that were designed for ease of contruction when they fly over, and the standard Rocket wing looks too short. Well when the EVO Rocket is observed flying over, it looks GREAT. Mr. Daussault would approve. Let me be clear, I have only flown Marks old Rocket one time, and I was impressed, but I do not have enough recent experience to directly compare them. The new wing has a Laminar Flow airfoil like the Mustang, and I expected it to fly much more like it. Somewhat true.... The RV's when compared to a fighter, fly much more like the Corsair than the Mustang, they have big fat, fairly lightly loaded wings. The Mustang, and the EVO have a thinner wing with the fattest part of the wing back at about 50% chord instead of about 30% on the RV/Rocket. For all your benefit, I wish Kevin Horton had flown it, so he could tell you better what it is going on. The launch is, well, like a Rocket... It really scoots. The climb rate is, well, like a Rocket.... The pointy kind I mean. The Rocket needs a little more right rudder than an RV, just think of it like an RV with a 10 knot crosswind. I did not collect any data and we were flying under a fairly low ceiling. The airplane does not fly like an RV. It flys very nicely, just very different. Mark is still working with control ratios but if he sells it just like it is now, it will be fine. This airplane has a longer stick than his other Rocket and so the ailerons require more stick displacement and that yeilds less aileron displacement, but a similar roll rate I would suppose. The stalls are straight forward, again I did not collect data, the airplane breaks cleanly, with any power on at all the nose up attitude is very high. Both clean and dirty stalls are similar. In steep turns the airplane really holds energy! I did a 3.5 G turn at 25/25 and it just hung in there. My recollection is that the Std Rocket payed off some energy when loaded up. I am sure that the new wing will like altitude better than the short wing because of aspect ratio and it should really show dramatic cruise speed improvement at high altitude. I tried flying the airplane holding the stick about 3 inches down from the top and I liked it better, the control forces are fine. The ailerons require more displacement than the elevator which is, I think, requires a little less movement with this wing than the standard. It is not goosey in pitch at all, and the pressures are good, it just doesnt take much movement. Also, the airplane "Points" better than the standard RV, that is, if you point the nose at something on the ground, the RV with tend to accelerate and pitch up, this airplane will stay on the point with little effort, what that says is the airplane has less airspeed/trim stability, but it does not seem to be noticable flying VFR. It might be more noticable IFR? The airplane has lots of lift, it is easy in the pattern, at 80 kts, the pitch attitude is good with the flaps down and it lands like an RV. The titanium gear has more spring in it than steel and it will bounce easily. I did not 3 point it, but based on the stalls I did and what Mark said, a full stall 3 point would have the gear pretty far in the air when the T/W touched. So, I had a Real Big "Rocket Grin" when I landed. I am certain the performance will be better because of the aspect ratio. Standard Rockets would not want to dogfight this airplane, because they would get waxxed. The airplane should LOVE altitude and benefit greatly from cruising at higher altitudes. This airplane is, with out a doubt, the best looking RV deriviative ever!!! And, as true to Mr Dassault, the airplane flies well, not as good as an RV-4, but almost nothing does. Having said that no one would be dissatisfied with it's handling, and Mark is still tweaking the control ratios. The real question is, if I were ordering, which would I order? No Question, The EVO wing. Just about the time I think I might be satisfied with someone's cast off Rocket, Mark comes up with something new..... I hate you Mark Fredrick!!! ;-) Tailwinds Doug "I wanna Rocket(with an EVO wing)" Rozendaal Tailwinds, Doug Rozendaal dougr(at)petroblend.com www.petroblend.com/dougr ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV8ter(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 11, 2004
Subject: 60 amp alternator auto part number?
What's the commercial part number for the 60 amp alternator I could use at a place like Napa? Has Van's version been modified from its car design to work with lycoming? thx, lucky In a message dated 4/11/2004 11:17:45 AM Eastern Standard Time, rv8striker(at)hotmail.com writes: RV-List message posted by: "Steve Struyk" With my O-360-A1A and 60 Amp alternator I finally settled on a Gates 7355. Actually, I bought several sizes around the 7355, (returned the unused ones later) tried them all and found it put the belt tension adjuster in the middle of it's range and still had good clearance from the prop governor line. It's possible that I'll have a cowl clearance issue later, but I'm not there yet. A small "blister" over the area near the alternator pulley is all I expect to encounter if any. Hope this helps. Steve Struyk RV-8, St. Charles, MO Fiberglass (Yuk!) waiting for avionics What's the commercial part number for the 60 amp alternator I could use at a place like Napa? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Flamini" <flamini2(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Fw: Tailwind-List: Interesting
Date: Apr 11, 2004
----- Original Message ----- From: Dennis Flamini Subject: Tailwind-List: Interesting i came across this at Hicks, looks great if you are not married. Dennis in Dallas Back to Listings Airpark Hicks Airfield - Fort Worth, Texas Description This property is located 12 miles northwest of downtown Fort Worth, 7 miles north of Meacham airport, 10 miles north east of Carswell Joint reserve base, and 7 mile south of Alliance airport. It is also a very short drive to Texas Motor Speedway. The airport is private, owned by the property owners, has approximately 50 permanent residents, around 300 hangers, Airport Restaurant, 24 Hour fuel, Flight Schools, Aircraft parts Supplier, A&P's, Instructors, and a 3740' paved runway. The lot size is 95'X75', the hanger is 55'WX75'LX25'H or 4,125 Sq.FT. It has one 16'x44' electric main door, 8'x10' remote controlled vehicle door, and standard personnel door. The electrical service is 200 amps, with generator and backup panel. There are six Quartz High Bay lights of which only three are needed. The home is located in the back upper 1/3 of the building, approx.(1300 sq.ft.), has a (4) ton heat pump, is carpet and tile through-out, with a 12'x15' & 16'x18' bed room. The master bedroom has a 10'x6' walk-in closet, 10'x10' master bath, with walk-in shower, & whirlpool tub. The living area is approx 15'x25', with a 5'x8' bath off the north side. The dinning area is open & adjacent to the kitchen and living area. The kitchen has lots of storage, with utility room & pantry off the kitchen. Home has security camera/intercom system, which includes access control of the personnel door. The intercom also exists in the lower level. The lower level of the home (Pilots lounge/Game room) is 20'x25', with bath, small kitchen area, overhead TV, and could be used as another bedroom. All major appliances are included with the home. Asking $175,000.00 509-528-4880 Contact Bryan Spicer - 509-528-4880 or :Jan Lary @ 817-656-1040 Email: bspicer(at)charter.net Photos (Please click on photo to zoom in and use your browser's Back button to return to this page) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com>
Subject: Insurance, and The Final Chapter
Date: Apr 11, 2004
Many of you are aware that I had an "incident" on 1/31 wherein I was hit by a gust and groundlooped my RV-8 while in the process of selling it. I've been meaning to post some sort of more in-depth follow-up because I know we all like to hear the full story in cases such as this, but it somehow hasn't made it to the top of my to-do list. In addition to providing a full write-up I wanted to let you know about the experience I had with the insurance company. Insurance is a frequent topic on these lists including debate about one company over another. My insurance was with the Vanguard program through NationAir and managed by frequent list contributor JT Helms. The actual insurance is through Phoenix Aviation, so in essence you're dealing with two companies, one who sells it, and one who handles claims. To make a long story short, I've always found JT to be very straightforward, attentive, and helpful, but of course until you have a claim you'll never know if the "back end" of the program shares those qualities. After having the unfortunate need to actually file a claim I can tell you that dealing with Phoenix Aviation was an excellent experience. The adjuster, Tracey Barrus, was prompt, communicative, and in the end very fair. In retrospect I think one of the things that made it go smoothly is that I was prepared. Two days after the accident I began putting together a repair plan spreadsheet that included both parts and labor and was grouped by major subassembly (wings, fuselage, landing gear). When Tracey did the inspection I took him through the damage to the aircraft, then my estimate for repairing it. In the end he thought it was entirely reasonable and agreed to settle without further negotiation or hassle. I had a settlement form to sign and a check a week later. Bottom line: I highly recommend the Vanguard program and will certainly use them again when my next aircraft is finished. Regarding the incident itself, I have added a section called "The Final Chapter" to the Flying page of my web site at... http://www.rv-8.com/Flying.htm What's next for me? Having been attracted to the RV-3 for several years now, and especially ever since Whirl Wind introduced their light weight 150 series constant speed props which I've always thought would be *perfect* on an RV-3, I've started construction of an RV-3B. All kits have been ordered, including the QB wings, and I've started a web site for that project at... http://www.romeolima.com/RV3factory/ Randy Lervold RV-8 N558RL, 368 hrs, sold RV-3B N223RL, empennage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Walker" <ron(at)walker.net>
Subject: Re: Austin Tx Info
Date: Apr 11, 2004
I'm also in Austin ... I live at Breakaway Airpark just to the north. There are a few homes here for sale as well as acreage lots that are ready to build. Lemme know if you want further info. Ron ----- Original Message ----- From: "Boss" <bossone(at)cox.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: Austin Tx Info > > Contact Chris Boultinghouse sonexbuilder(at)yahoo.com > he lives in Austin. I know that Georgetown recently expanded the airport > there (just North of Austin). I an not sure what was done with the main > airport as it was moved to the ex Air Force Base. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net> > To: > Subject: RV-List: Austin Tx Info > > > > > > I'm thinking of taking a job in Austin Texas. I would be taking my project > and finishing it there. I would like to know if there are any airparks in > the Austin area? I've found a few on the web but any specific info (RV > friendly, other builders in the area) would be great. I would be working in > the downtown Austin area so I'm not looking for a big commute but would be > willing if the home/airpark were right. > > > > Thanks, > > > > Karie Daniel > > Sammamish, WA > > RV-7A QB In Progress > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HCRV6(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 11, 2004
Subject: Re: Catto Props
Walt. Thanks for the reply. Have you had the opportunity to get any performance data with your prop such ROC, cruise speed vs. RPM, etc? Also, have you noted what RPMs your engine is turning at full throttle. Lastly, what diameter and pitch did Craig use for your prop. Sorry to pile on so many questions but I'm trying to gather as much information as I can to reach a decision on which fixed pitch prop to go with. Thanks. Harry Crosby Pleasanton, California RV-6, final assembly ________________________________________________________________________________
From: david.keck(at)amd.com
Subject: Austin Tx Info
Date: Apr 11, 2004
There is also Cross Country Estates airpark just east of Georgetown. www.airparks.com/07ts There are a few lots left and they're a bit less expensive than Breakaway. Dave -----Original Message----- From: tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com [mailto:tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com] Subject: RE: RV-List: Austin Tx Info Karie, Breakaway Park is the main one I konw of, but it is not cheap. I think Lakeway has a "community" airport, but it is not close to downtown either. Austin has a very large RV population. Most people in town keep their planes out at Georgetown, as they have added a bunch of hangars. It's probably a 35 minute drive from downtown. You might also check the EAA 187 website (link on Vans). The roster lists all of the members, and you can see what everyone is building. Scott Haskins Pflugerville (Austin), TX 7A Wings --- On Fri 04/09, Karie Daniel < karie4(at)comcast.net > wrote: From: Karie Daniel [mailto: karie4(at)comcast.net] Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2004 22:21:33 -0700 Subject: RV-List: Austin Tx Info I'm thinking of taking a job in Austin Texas. I would be taking my project and finishing it there. I would like to know if there are any airparks in the Austin area? I've found a few on the web but any specific info (RV friendly, other builders in the area) would be great. I would be working in the downtown Austin area so I'm not looking for a big commute but would be willing if the home/airpark were right. Thanks, Karie Daniel Sammamish, WA RV-7A QB In Progress L NEW LIST CHAT!! http://www.matronics.com/chat ================= Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com The most personalized portal on the Web! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Hyde" <nauga(at)brick.net>
Subject: Fuel pressure question
Date: Apr 11, 2004
Just got back from flying. What a beautiful day, but bumpy as all get-out. I've seen a lot of discussion here about low fuel pressure at altitude, but wasn't able to find a definitive answer in the archives. With the boost pump off I always see 0 psi from an electrical tranducer whenever I get above about 4K ft. The engine runs fine. It looks like I'm not the only one with this problem (if it is a problem). So far I've been turning the boost pump on - that brings it up to ~3psi, and it remains at 1-3psi after turning the boost off. When I start maneuvering, fuel pressure drops again. It's obvious the engine is getting fuel, so is there a solution to the spurious warning? What are others doing out there? Details: RV-4 Carbureted O320-D2C Grand Rapids EIS-4000 VDO 0-30 psi transducer on the firewall Facet low-pressure boost pump Lycoming low-pressure mech fuel pump This one goes in the 'annoyance' column so long as the engine keeps running . I LOVE this airplane! Dave Hyde nauga(at)brick.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 11, 2004
Subject: Re: Fuel pressure question
In a message dated 4/11/04 6:26:03 PM Eastern Daylight Time, nauga(at)brick.net writes: > I've seen a lot of discussion here about low fuel > pressure at altitude, but wasn't able to find a > definitive answer in the archives. With the boost > pump off I always see 0 psi from an electrical > tranducer whenever I get above about 4K ft. The > engine runs fine. It looks like I'm not the only > one with this problem (if it is a problem). > So far I've been turning the boost pump on - that > brings it up to ~3psi, and it remains at 1-3psi after > turning the boost off. When I start maneuvering, fuel > pressure drops again. It's obvious the engine is > getting fuel, so is there a solution to the spurious > warning? What are others doing out there? > A friend with a RV-9 had a simular problem and was running a EIS. The fix was a static port on the sensor was too small and would not allow the sensor to adjust its self. Fuel flow and pressure were both goofy. All has been fine since the fix. Sal Capra Lakeland, FL My Home Page http://hometown.aol.com/cbrxxdrv/index.html ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 11, 2004
From: Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel pressure question
> >In a message dated 4/11/04 6:26:03 PM Eastern Daylight Time, nauga(at)brick.net >writes: > > >> I've seen a lot of discussion here about low fuel >> pressure at altitude, but wasn't able to find a >> definitive answer in the archives. With the boost >> pump off I always see 0 psi from an electrical >> tranducer whenever I get above about 4K ft. The >> engine runs fine. It looks like I'm not the only >> one with this problem (if it is a problem). >> So far I've been turning the boost pump on - that >> brings it up to ~3psi, and it remains at 1-3psi after >> turning the boost off. When I start maneuvering, fuel >> pressure drops again. It's obvious the engine is >> getting fuel, so is there a solution to the spurious >> warning? What are others doing out there? >> > >A friend with a RV-9 had a simular problem and >was running a EIS. The fix was a static port on the sensor >was too small and would not allow the sensor to adjust >its self. Fuel flow and pressure were both goofy. >All has been fine since the fix. > > >Sal Capra >Lakeland, FL > My Home Page >http://hometown.aol.com/cbrxxdrv/index.html That makes a lot of sense, as the fuel pressure sensor recommended by Grand Rapids seems to be designed for automotive applications. Thus the designer probably envisioned that the static pressure would change very slowly. -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit) Ottawa, Canada http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 11, 2004
From: Matt Jurotich <mjurotich(at)hst.nasa.gov>
Subject: Re: HID Upgrade
My apologies to Don and Janet. They were out of town. For any who are interested this is Don's answer. Matt, sorry for the slow response, just returned from 2 weeks in Asia yesterday. The notch being on the top or bottom doesn't matter. Since there isn't a filament in the HID the orientation is not as critical. Enjoy flying your RV! dw Matthew M. Jurotich NASA/Goddard Space Flight Center JWST ISIM Systems Engineer m/c : 443 e-mail mailto: mjurotich(at)hst.nasa.gov phone : 301-286-5919 fax : 301-286-7021 JWST URL: <http://ngst1.gsfc.nasa.gov> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 11, 2004
From: Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel pressure question
So what was the fix? I have had low fuel pressure readings, tried a new sensor to no avail. Also I have suspiciously high flow readings with the EIS. Jeff Point RV-6 14 hours Milwaukee WI > >A friend with a RV-9 had a simular problem and >was running a EIS. The fix was a static port on the sensor >was too small and would not allow the sensor to adjust >its self. Fuel flow and pressure were both goofy. >All has been fine since the fix. > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 11, 2004
Subject: Re: Fuel pressure question
In a message dated 4/11/04 9:44:54 PM Eastern Daylight Time, jpoint(at)mindspring.com writes: > So what was the fix? I have had low fuel pressure readings, tried a new > sensor to no avail. Also I have suspiciously high flow readings with > the EIS. > So did he. He inlarged the hole for the static vent on the sender/sensor. Sal Capra Lakeland, FL My Home Page http://hometown.aol.com/cbrxxdrv/index.html ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 12, 2004
From: Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel pressure question
I don't recall seeing such a hole. How much did he enlarge it? And how did this affect the flow sensor? Jeff >So did he. He inlarged the hole for the static vent on the sender/sensor. > > >Sal Capra >Lakeland, FL > My Home Page >http://hometown.aol.com/cbrxxdrv/index.html > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 12, 2004
Subject: Re: Fuel pressure question
In a message dated 4/12/04 4:24:44 AM Eastern Daylight Time, jpoint(at)mindspring.com writes: > I don't recall seeing such a hole. How much did he enlarge it? And how > did this affect the flow sensor? > I will get all the tech info from him today and pass it along. It reallly was not rocket science. You would imagine the hole is none exsistant to not allow the pressure to equalize. If what is needed is not apparent I will get the needed info and pass it along. Sal Capra Lakeland, FL My Home Page http://hometown.aol.com/cbrxxdrv/index.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon(at)msn.com>
Subject: Soliciting advice on replacing throttle quadrant with Van's "Deluxe"
model
Date: Apr 12, 2004
Hi All, This weekend, I plan to swap-out the standard 3-lever throttle quadrant in my -4 for the "deluxe" version available through Van's. I would like to know if anyone has done this and can share any fit/function problems that may have been experienced. I don't want my plane down just for upgrading the quadrant! I am aware of the "Service Letter" regarding the clevis interference. Thanks in advance for the help. Dean Pichon RV-4, 185 hrs Check out MSN PC Safety & Security to help ensure your PC is protected and safe. http://specials.msn.com/msn/security.asp ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel tank leaks
Date: Apr 12, 2004
Hey...Thats me! I have built a lot of them....working on a set of RV10 tanks today. If you have just one or two rivets leaking I can probably help you fix them. More that that and you should consider a new set of tanks. Give me a call when you get a chance. Evan (530)351-1776 Cell ----- Original Message ----- From: "Shemp" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel tank leaks > > Look in one of the most recent RV-ators. There is a guy who will build your > tanks for you. Sounds like it may be worth the cost if you dont want to > mess with the mess. > > Jeff > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: <CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com> > To: > Subject: RV-List: Fuel tank leaks > > > > > > Hello all, > > > > Because of my quest for an RV I have been lurking to learn what I could. > > Now it would seem I have a question that some may be able to address. > > I have found an RV-4 (finished in 1991) with a fuel tank that appears to > be . > > leaking at the rivits. > > In the past I had a Cherokee with this same problem and the fix was to > send > > the tanks off for resealing. I would assume that the same could be done to > the > > RV tank > > as well as building or buy a new tank or ?? I am thinking that the old > tank > > would be a mess to deal with. > > > > Any input ? > > > > Thanks > > > > Sal Capra > > Lakeland, FL > > My Home Page > > http://hometown.aol.com/cbrxxdrv/index.html > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel tank leaks
Date: Apr 12, 2004
> >Hey...Thats me! I have built a lot of them....working on a set of RV10 >tanks >today. If you have just one or two rivets leaking I can probably help you >fix them. More that that and you should consider a new set of tanks. Give >me >a call when you get a chance. > >Evan >(530)351-1776 Cell Hey, Evan. What are you charging for a set of RV-10 tanks? Your website doesn't mention them. Thanks, Brian Denk RV8 N94BD RV10 '51 Watch LIVE baseball games on your computer with MLB.TV, included with MSN Premium! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 12, 2004
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: Soliciting advice on replacing throttle quadrant
with Van's "Deluxe" model My only complaint with this quadrant is there is metal to metal contact with the levers and the slot they ride in, if, they are not pushed exactly straight ahead. Before you install the new one you might want to install some UHMW tape or something like that. > >Hi All, > >This weekend, I plan to swap-out the standard 3-lever throttle quadrant in >my -4 for the "deluxe" version available through Van's. I would like to >know if anyone has done this and can share any fit/function problems that >may have been experienced. I don't want my plane down just for upgrading >the quadrant! I am aware of the "Service Letter" regarding the clevis >interference. >Thanks in advance for the help. > >Dean Pichon >RV-4, 185 hrs > >Check out MSN PC Safety & Security to help ensure your PC is protected and >safe. http://specials.msn.com/msn/security.asp > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard McCraw" <rmccraw(at)wcvt.com>
Subject: Workshop: What size door?
Date: Apr 12, 2004
I am getting ready to build a house that will have an unfinished walkout cellar. Within this cellar I plan to set up my workshop so I can finally start assembling the RV-7 kit I bought about three years ago. (Pretty soon I'll probably be studying posts about corrosion on stored-too-long skins, but I already know that's in the archives. Sigh.) Here's the question: If it were your shop, how big a door would you have? What is the minimum that would work? I am assuming, by the way, that I would not be attaching the gear down there. I don't see having a seven-foot door. Please pardon if this is answered elsewhere, but I don't see it in the builder's book or in the archives. Thanks kindly. Rick McCraw RV-7, someday ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 12, 2004
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Power Vs Speed Vs altitude
Has anyone done any testing at various power settings to see what air speeds are obtained. I am trying to find "the wall" where more power really does little in the way of more speed. Right now I cruise at 60% power, Alt 9500, and 160 knts TAS and 7.5 gal an hour. This seems to be kind of a sweet spot. Does any one else have any cruise data. Power settings Vs fuel flow Vs altitude etc. I am just looking for in the ball park figures. Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVEIGHTA(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 12, 2004
Subject: Re: Catto Props
Harry, my prop is a 3-blade, 66" in diam. Pitch is 75." During a static runup, I get around 2290 rpm. At 8,000' wide open and level I get slightly over 2700 rpm and during a four way run at this altitude I'm going 202 mph at full throttle. Climb has varied from around 1600' on a hot muggy day to 2400' on a frigid morning. All of these stats are solo with 1/2 - 3/4 tanks of fuel. I most likely would see somewhat better performance with the Sensenic metal prop, but I was more interested in quietness and smoothness which the Catto delivers in spades. Most pilots who have flown with me comment on how smooth my Lyc runs and I tell 'em its the prop. Maybe if I had it to do over, I would have gone with the Catto two-blade, but frankly I just think the 3 blade just looks so great. You can see my plane in the February Sport Aviation completions section. If I can be of any further help, let me know. Walt Shipley N314TS 85.3 hrs an gettin' ready for SNF ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com>
Subject: Brake Reservoir
Date: Apr 12, 2004
Some time back there was a post about using individual Reservoirs mounted on each master cyl. I could not find it in the archives. Have any of you done it this way and what are your thoughts/ John Furey RV6A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WHigg1170(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 12, 2004
Subject: S/S roll bar brace RV6 Slider ?
Hello I was wondering if anyone found a good way or place to mount the mag compass. I was going to mount it on the roll bar brace but I will have to order a new one that is made of stainless steal, not a big problem yet since I don't have the top skin on. any info or names of a good compass and mounting system would be great it will save me research time. Thanks Bill Higgins Pembroke Ma ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Brake Reservoir
Date: Apr 12, 2004
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2004 16:21:52 -0400 > > >Some time back there was a post about using individual Reservoirs mounted >on each master cyl. I could not find it in the archives. Have any of you >done it this way and what are your thoughts/ > >John Furey >RV6A > Yes. Recently completed this modification on my -8. Pics of Randy Lervold's -8 installation can be seen at http://www.rv-8.com/IdeasProducts.htm. I don't know if this can be made to work on the -6A but I really like how it turned out in my airplane. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD RV10 '51 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: Power Vs Speed Vs altitude
Date: Apr 12, 2004
Hi Scott, Almost exactly the same numbers I use on my -360 powered RV6 at the same altitudes, +/- 1K for winds/direction, etc.. I can do a bit better at 11.5 & 12.5 on Fuel flow and TAS, but as a whole, your numbers are pretty close to what I see and use for "best economy" cruise. Having a FP prop, I think the CS guys may be able to do little better, but I'm pretty happy with that! Cheers, Stein Bruch RV6's, Minneapolis. http://www.steinair.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Scott Bilinski Subject: RV-List: Power Vs Speed Vs altitude <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com> Has anyone done any testing at various power settings to see what air speeds are obtained. I am trying to find "the wall" where more power really does little in the way of more speed. Right now I cruise at 60% power, Alt 9500, and 160 knts TAS and 7.5 gal an hour. This seems to be kind of a sweet spot. Does any one else have any cruise data. Power settings Vs fuel flow Vs altitude etc. I am just looking for in the ball park figures. Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com>
Subject: Re: Brake Reservoir
Date: Apr 12, 2004
> Some time back there was a post about using individual Reservoirs mounted on each master cyl. I could not find it in the archives. Have any of you done it this way and what are your thoughts/ > > John Furey > RV6A Not sure if they will work on a -6, but this might be what you're referring to... http://www.rv-8.com/IdeasProducts.htm Randy Lervold RV-8, 368 hrs, sold RV-3B, empennage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Hyde" <nauga(at)brick.net>
Subject: re: Flyoff Request Letter/FAA
Date: Apr 12, 2004
> Hello again...anyone know a link to or where I might get an > example of the letter that the DAR needs to see requesting > the flyoff area and any other pert. There's a sample program letter in Advisor Circular AC20-27F, which is at: http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgAdvisoryCircular .nsf/1ab39b4ed563b08985256a35006d56af/0ca2845e2aafffbb86256dbf00640cb2/$FILE /AC20-27F.pdf Line wrap will probably kill that, so go to: http://av-info.faa.gov/ click on "Amateur-Built Aircraft" and follow the links to AC20-27F. The letter is on page 47 of the PDF doc. It's got a checklist of things you need to present to the DAR at inspection, so it's good to review even if you don't use it. My DAR wanted *much* less detail and went so far as to rewrite the letter for me (I used AC20-27 as guidance). The final letter I ended up with basically said, "This is my airplane. I built it. It was fun. Now I'm going to fly it." The flight test area, etc, are in my operating limitations. Good luck. Dave Hyde nauga(at)brick.net RV-4 in flight test, EAA Technical Counselor ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 12, 2004
From: Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org>
Subject: Re: Brake Reservoir
Hi John, My thoughts are that you'd have to be one hamburger short of a picnic to do that! I have the standard issue setup on my -6 and it's an excellent system - zero problems. My Stinson had the reservoirs on the pedals and they were a major pain to service - and the Stinson had a lot of room under there. Remember that even to just check the fluid, you're going to have to get upside down and backwards with a flashlight in your teeth. :>) Dave Bristol -6, So Cal EAA Technical Counselor John Furey wrote: > >Some time back there was a post about using individual Reservoirs mounted on each master cyl. I could not find it in the archives. Have any of you done it this way and what are your thoughts/ > >John Furey >RV6A > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 12, 2004
From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Brake Reservoir
John Furey wrote: > >Some time back there was a post about using individual Reservoirs mounted on each master cyl. I could not find it in the archives. Have any of you done it this way and what are your thoughts/ > >John Furey >RV6A > > > That is the way it was it was done on all of the old RV-6's with the floor mounted rudder pedals. Mine has worked flawlessly for 15 years. Jerry ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HCRV6(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 12, 2004
Subject: Re: Catto Props
Thanks for the performance data Walt, and congratulations on a beautiful airplane. Your comment that if you were doing it again you "might" consider a Catto two blade instead of the three blade interests me. Can you explain your reasoning there? Harry Crosby Pleasanton, California RV-6, final assembly ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Brown" <nightmare(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Step for RV6
Date: Apr 12, 2004
Has anybody ever put a step on an RV-6 (not -6A). I need to put one on my already built -6. Paul ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 12, 2004
Subject: Re: Workshop: What size door?
Rick, I built my RV-7A in my "Radio Room." I'm a ham operator and the radio room is about 27 by 17 feet inside. By the way, I have had both wings on the plane inside this room at the same time. It was tight! It is a room of the house on the ground floor. About a year ago I had the local EAA meeting at my house and didn't want to spent the whole evening answering, "How you gonna get it outta here?" So I installed a 6 foot wide double door in place of the single door at one end or the room. It looks like two regular steel entry doors that swing toward each other. One door has a latch at the top which you can unlatch when the other (normal) door is open. I think I can wiggle the RV-7A through the door on the gear. I will have to start through the door at an angle and then slide it sideways to continue through the door. I wouldn't want a smaller door than 6 ft. wide. Hope this helps, Dan Hopper RV-7A (almost done) In a message dated 4/12/04 1:28:11 PM US Eastern Standard Time, rmccraw(at)wcvt.com writes: > > Here's the question: If it were your shop, how big a door would you have? > What is the minimum that would work? > > > I am assuming, by the way, that I would not be attaching the gear down > there. I don't see having a seven-foot door. > > > Please pardon if this is answered elsewhere, but I don't see it in the > builder's book or in the archives. > > > Thanks kindly. > > > Rick McCraw > > RV-7, someday > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 12, 2004
Subject: Re: Workshop: What size door?
Rick, Some additional information. If you don't have steps or gear on your plane it will go through a 4 foot wide door with about 2 inches to spare. The center bottom skin is the widest part. If its a -7A you would want to have steps, I think, and that requires a 5 foot opening. Dan Hopper RV-7A (almost done) In a message dated 4/12/04 1:28:11 PM US Eastern Standard Time, rmccraw(at)wcvt.com writes: > > Here's the question: If it were your shop, how big a door would you have? > What is the minimum that would work? > > > I am assuming, by the way, that I would not be attaching the gear down > there. I don't see having a seven-foot door. > > > Please pardon if this is answered elsewhere, but I don't see it in the > builder's book or in the archives. > > > Thanks kindly. > > > Rick McCraw > > RV-7, someday > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net>
Subject: Re: RV 10 tanks
Date: Apr 12, 2004
Brian, This is the second set of RV 10 tanks I will have built....the first is going on my wings :) The labor looks to be about 1700.00 per set. I have to say these suckers take a long time compared to what I am used to building. There are just a ton or rivets and gobs of sealant to use. The matched hole design is really nice though, both sets are looking beautiful. You will have to plan on using 2 quarts of sealant and the shipping will have to be by freight. The crates will be too big for UPS. I havent updated the website because I was waiting to see how the hours balanced out on the second set. The first set is always slow because of learning curve. If you or any others out there are interested please feel free to email or call me. If you decide to build them yourself you should also feel free to call for advise, I dont mind as long as I dont have proseal setting up on me. If you dont want to risk the leaks and you dont want to get stickey...call me :) Evan (530)247-0375 (530)351-1776 cell www.evansaviationproducts.com evmeg(at)snowcrest.net ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel tank leaks > > > > > >Hey...Thats me! I have built a lot of them....working on a set of RV10 > >tanks > >today. If you have just one or two rivets leaking I can probably help you > >fix them. More that that and you should consider a new set of tanks. Give > >me > >a call when you get a chance. > > > >Evan > >(530)351-1776 Cell > > Hey, Evan. What are you charging for a set of RV-10 tanks? Your website > doesn't mention them. > > Thanks, > > Brian Denk > RV8 N94BD > RV10 '51 > > Watch LIVE baseball games on your computer with MLB.TV, included with MSN > Premium! > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com>
Subject: Brake Reservoir
Date: Apr 12, 2004
You can check out my upside down pictures here. Care must be taken to ensure the bolts don't touch each other but I got mine to work out fine. http://bmnellis.com/images/Fuselage/pedals-seatribs/DCP02987.JPG Mike Nellis RV-6 Fuselage N699BM 1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K http://bmnellis.com *** *** > *** >Some time back there was a post about using individual Reservoirs *** >mounted *** >on each master cyl. I could not find it in the archives. *** Have any of you *** >done it this way and what are your thoughts/ *** > *** >John Furey *** >RV6A *** > *** *** Yes. Recently completed this modification on my -8. Pics of Randy *** Lervold's -8 installation can be seen at *** http://www.rv-8.com/IdeasProducts.htm. *** *** I don't know if this can be made to work on the -6A but I *** really like how it *** turned out in my airplane. *** *** Brian Denk *** RV8 N94BD *** RV10 '51 *** *** *** ============= *** Matronics Forums. *** ============= *** ============= *** ============= *** *** *** *** *** *** *** ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gabe A Ferrer" <ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Fuel Pressure Question
Date: Apr 12, 2004
I also have had similar problems with my EIS fuel pressure sensor. I talked to Gregg (EIS, Grand Rapids) and he sent me a fuel pressure sensor with a drilled hole in it to vent it. The fuel sensors don't come with a hole in them. I've been dragging my feet in installing the new sensor. I think that it's about time that I tried it. I'll report in future email. Gabe A Ferrer RV6 N2GX 109 hours South Florida Email: ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net Cell: 561 758 8894 Night Phone: 561 622 0960 Fax: 561 622 0960 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 12, 2004
From: richard dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net>
Subject: Re: S/S roll bar brace RV6 Slider ?
Hi Bill, Have you checked the roll bar brace with a magnet? I had the same concern because I wanted to mount my vertical card compass on that bar. I checked it with a magnet and found it to NOT be ferromagnetic. I had assumed that it was the same material as the roll bar. The magnet was not attracted to it whereas the roll bar itself is ferromagnetic. So, my compass is mounted on that bar. I purchased a mount that was made to go on that brace. Good luck. Richard Dudley -6A final loose ends before painting WHigg1170(at)aol.com wrote: > >Hello I was wondering if anyone found a good way or place to mount the mag >compass. I was going to mount it on the roll bar brace but I will have to order >a new one that is made of stainless steal, not a big problem yet since I don't >have the top skin on. any info or names of a good compass and mounting >system would be great it will save me research time. Thanks > >Bill Higgins >Pembroke Ma > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Harvey Sigmon" <rv6hes(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: S/S roll bar brace RV6 Slider ?
Date: Apr 12, 2004
The Roll Bar Brace is Stanless Steel for that purpose. ----- Original Message ----- From: "richard dudley" <rhdudley(at)att.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: S/S roll bar brace RV6 Slider ? > > Hi Bill, > Have you checked the roll bar brace with a magnet? I had the same > concern because I wanted to mount my vertical card compass on that bar. > I checked it with a magnet and found it to NOT be ferromagnetic. I had > assumed that it was the same material as the roll bar. The magnet was > not attracted to it whereas the roll bar itself is ferromagnetic. So, my > compass is mounted on that bar. I purchased a mount that was made to go > on that brace. > > Good luck. > > Richard Dudley > -6A final loose ends before painting > > WHigg1170(at)aol.com wrote: > > > > >Hello I was wondering if anyone found a good way or place to mount the mag > >compass. I was going to mount it on the roll bar brace but I will have to order > >a new one that is made of stainless steal, not a big problem yet since I don't > >have the top skin on. any info or names of a good compass and mounting > >system would be great it will save me research time. Thanks > > > >Bill Higgins > >Pembroke Ma > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 12, 2004
From: Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: S/S roll bar brace RV6 Slider ?
I'm using a vertical compass card mount purchased from Aircraft Spruce specifically designed for the slider brace. It's P/N is 10-07934 PACMO-RV6C-KIT Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing" Hello I was wondering if anyone found a good way or place to mount the mag compass. I was going to mount it on the roll bar brace but I will have to ordera new one that is made of stainless steal, not a big problem yet since I don'thave the top skin on. any info or names of a good compass and mounting system would be great it will save me research time. ThanksBill HigginsPembroke Ma --------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 12, 2004
Subject: Fly-in Fish Fry
From: smoothweasel(at)juno.com
This is a follow up on the planned Fish Fry here in East Mississippi. Hey Guys/Gals, we are planning a fly-in fish fry for anyone that wants to come. All ya need ta do is fly in and eat. The strip is 2000ft. grass and is located right on a fish farm here in east Mississippi. If you have ever been in this area you have noticed the large amount of ponds here so this is a great opportunity for you to try some locally-raised-farm-grown-CATFISH!!!!! Invite your friends (and enemies......... you don't have to have an RV) and come on down for some great food. > > This is an invitation to a fly-in to be held on Saturday, May 15,2004 at > > 11:00 a.m. We will plan on serving the meal at 12:00 noon. We welcome > > all aircraft that land on grass to come try out our strip. If you don't > > do grass strips join us for the food and friendly conversation. > > > > We are located at: > > GPS: N 33 08.511' W 088 24.485' > > 1950 ft. grass N/S runway > > Caution: Power pole on the S/W corner of the runway > > > > If driving: > > Travel Hwy 45 to Prairie Point Rd. Turn East on Prairie Point Rd, pass > > Macon Airport and of about 8.5 mi. to Greenbriar Rd. Turn South onto > > Greenbriar, look for black catfish mailbox. Turn right at the mailbox > > and drive between the ponds to the house. We plan to be there, waiting > > for you. > > > > Questions? Contact us at: > > Dwight Lee (662) 726-9709 e-mail: bubbalee69(at)juno.com > > Levi Lee (662) 726-5560 > > > > Check e-mail or call before coming if there is a chance of bad weather > > cancellation. > > > > PS If you know anyone who would enjoy this please pass this invitation on > > for us. > Joel "Weasel" Graber ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 13, 2004
From: Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Bleeding brakes
A trick which was shown to me by an old A&P: get a hardware store pressure oil can and some 1/4 OD plastic tube. Attach the can (full of brake juice) with the tube to the brake bleeder screw. Attach a fitting w/ another tube to the reservoir, and run the tube into a jar. Open the bleed screw and pump the oil can until the fluid comes out at the reservoir end. Keep pumping until you are satisfied the air is out (which is easy to check- just tighten the bleed screw and try the brakes w/out disconnecting the apparatus.) Easy to do, and requires only one person. Just check the overflow jar once in a while, and don't let the oil can run dry. Jeff Point RV-6 14 hours Milwaukee WI > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 13, 2004
From: Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Brake Reservoir
I have the same setup as Mike (actually, mine is right-side-up) and I like it. I did have to move a few of the spacers around to get the reservoirs to miss each other, but they now clear by a good 1/4 inch. The stock reservoir and lines look awfully leak prone, and I heard enough horror stories about them to do it this way. Jeff Point RV-6 14 hours Milwaukee WI ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Strapdown inertial navigation systems WAS: Autopilot Itch
Date: Apr 13, 2004
From: "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" <F.vanderHulst(at)ucol.ac.nz>
Our email server has been out over Easter, although it seems to be working again now. I *know* that some of my incoming email has been lost :-(. So I may have missed replies to Trampas's message. Anyway, here's my reply... > So the first step is to measure the angle of the plane. There are two simple > ways to do this one is the magnometer which measures earth's magnetic field, > however if you are near a hanger this could be off. That would be a magnetometer, right? A little-understood fact is that the Earth's magnetic field dips at various angles, depending where you are on it (round here, it dips at 60 degrees). So, to use a single magnetometer to measure angle, you need to know where you are, and which way you're facing. You can use 3 orthogonal magnetometers... then you just need to know where you are. Note that since the magnetic field is characterised as a vector, you can't measure any rolling about the vector using just magnetometers. > The second is an inclinometer... This will work fine whilst on the ground and not accelerating (ie not turning). > Ok back to the problem so on the ground we will measure the pitch and roll using > two inclinometers. Now we can reset our rate gyros and life is good, note we are > assuming plane is upright which is a fair assumption on the ground... Yup, OK so far. > Now we take off and the rate gyros have errors in them so at some point we need > to reset them. Well if we assume that we still have the inclinometer then we could > reset them when the inclinometers are level. However this will not work as that we > could be in a banked turn which could throw the inclinometers off. Yup. An unbanked turn would be even worse. > So now we to know when we can reset the gyros, which will be basically when we only > have gravity vector (and lift hopefully) acting on the plane. Actually, any time when the nature of the aircraft's motion is known. However, for practical purpose, this is basically straight and level flight. > So we look at the gyros and say yes there is some error but does it say all forces > are zero, if so then it might be a good time to reset. Now if we also look at our > magnometer (aka compass sensors) and see if we have been flying straight then we can > be fairly sure it is a good time to reset. That is we are not in a long banked turn. I agree... My guess is that the combination of accelerometers and magnetometers is used to detect S&L... if total acceleration force is 1G towards the wheels, and the magnetometer readings aren't changing, then I guess it's pretty safe to assume S&L. Either that, or the pilot is executing a perfect 1G roll about the magnetic vector. Assuming flying due magnetic north or south, that would mean a pitch attitude of 60deg up or down, and a roll about the aicraft centreline. Flying east/west, it implies loops, maintaining 1G. In any other direction, some kind of wierd half-roll, half-loop. Although the due north case is possibly doable in an RV, *I* certainly wouldn't be able to keep it up for long! > Well this works well as long as we are upright, which is not a fair assumption in > the air. Therefore we need to have a sensor, a simple mercury switch that tells > us if we are upright are not. Actually the inclinometers may have this feature included. Whoa!! A mercury switch won't tell you whether you're upright or not. If you execute a loop and maintain positive G all the way, the mercury switch won't switch. > Well this would work quite well depending on the error rate of the gyros, well if we > also had the velocity of the plane we could compensate for some of the gyro errors. That > is if we know we are going 100knts and turning we can get an idea of what the gyros > should read. So lets add air speed into the mix as well. Whoa again! Air speed is not velocity. I guess you could get velocity from GPS though. Sensing another parameter such as altitude or maybe airspeed would narrow down the circulmstances where drift would occur... fly due magnetic north, pitch up 60deg, roll 1G about the aicraft centreline whilst not changing altitude might I guess be theoretically possible (for a moment or two), but I think that flying due magnetic north, pitch up 60deg, roll 1G whilst not changing altitude OR AIRSPEED would be completely impossible in an RV. Maybe in an F-22? So throw in something to measure engine power as well! > Then we derive equations for our outputs, then we apply these equations using a signal > processing method called a Kalman filter. This will basically keep the system reset all > the time and provide us with our outputs. We also add some sanity checks to see if the > data is in left field and basically ship the product. That is the magic is actually in > the filtering algorithm for the data. I'm familiar with digital filtering, but not Kalman filters specifically, so I'm not sure how they would help in keeping the system straight. My approach would be as I've outlined above... detect when the aircraft is *probably* S&L, and then reset the drift in the gyros. Some digital filters to keep the way-out numbers out of the calculations. After all, typically you only want an autopilot to work properly when you're spending most of your time in S&L flight. If you're doing hard-out maneuvring like aerobatics, the pilot is responsible for judging where the horizon is. Dunno how well you would expect an autopilot to work whilst inside a turbulent cloud, but I would expect/hope that that would be only for limited time, so the drift wouldn't be too significant. > I would also guess that they use temperature inside their box as well to compensate the > gyros but again this is only a WAG. I'd guess that that wouldn't be necessary... the box is in the cockpit, where temperatures are kept within a reasonable range. > If someone wants to pay me to do it I will even make an attempt to see if this system would actually work. :) Me too! :-) Frank Learn real skills for the real world - Apply online at http://www.ucol.ac.nz or call 0800 GO UCOL (0800 46 8265) or txt free 3388 for more information and make a good move to UCOL Universal College of Learning. Enrol with a public institute and be certain of your future ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 13, 2004
From: Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Bleeding brakes
Jeff, I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the same procedure you outlined using a dedicated ACT pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the reservoir fluid to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to a week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear and collect at the high point in the loops of the dual brake line system no matter what I do. Both left and right brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes during the bleeding process, l've used relatively high pressure, low pressure, but always making sure the lines and overflow are absolutely bubble free before I stop the process. Sure enough, after a period of time passes, usually after several days, the bubbles reappear. The brakes *seem* okay when I depress them, the bubbles merely migrate a bit when I depress the petals, but I have no way to judge brake effectiveness until real world taxi tests. I would sure like to see no bubbles at all in the lines at any time, what am I overlooking.......thoughts? Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing" A trick which was shown to me by an old A&P: get a hardware store pressure oil can and some 1/4 OD plastic tube. Attach the can (full of brake juice) with the tube to the brake bleeder screw. Attach a fitting w/ another tube to the reservoir, and run the tube into a jar. Open the bleed screw and pump the oil can until the fluid comes out at the reservoir end. Keep pumping until you are satisfied the air is out (which is easy to check- just tighten the bleed screw and try the brakes w/out disconnecting the apparatus.) Easy to do, and requires only one person. Just check the overflow jar once in a while, and don't let the oil can run dry. Jeff Point RV-6 14 hours Milwaukee --------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 13, 2004
Subject: Re: Bleeding brakes
From: Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)warpdriveonline.com>
on 4/13/04 6:27 AM, Rick Galati at rick6a(at)yahoo.com wrote: > > Jeff, > > I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the same procedure you > outlined using a dedicated ACT pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the > reservoir fluid to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to a > week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear and collect at the high > point in the loops of the dual brake line system no matter what I do. > > Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing" > It sounds like you have a leak in the system. Larry Pardue Carlsbad, NM RV-6 N441LP Flying http://n5lp.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Shemp" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Oil/gas leak out of Bendix Servo
Date: Apr 13, 2004
Yep, it was somewhat pickled for 6 years. It wasnt sealed but it did have a lot of preservative oil in it. I only have a hole inside the filter now. I never thought to put a second one. Thanks for the tip. Jeff Dowling RV-6a/ 52 hours Chicago/ Louisville ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> Subject: RE: RV-List: Oil/gas leak out of Bendix Servo > > > > Im wondering if anyone has seen this before. > > > > I have a Bendix fi servo and Ive noticed some liquid seeping > > out of the bottom of the servo on the top of the fab mounting > > plate upon shutdown. The air cleaner also seems awful dark > > looking thru the fiberglass, oil? I call it a "liquid" > > because I cant determine what it is. It seems to be a mix of > > oil and fuel but I gave up on my rotax a long time ago:) Its > > a blueish thick oilly mess. It also drips out of the bottom > > of the fab. I dont know what to make of it. > > Was your engine pickled prior to being started? If so, I suspect what > you are finding is induction oil from the pickling that is being washed > down to the FAB with priming. It seems that mine did that for a couple > hundred hours. The pickling oil sort of turns waxy, and does not run or > weep by itself. Since no fuel is being sucked up the induction system, > the only time it gets washed is by prime running down. > > Do you have small holes on the bottom of the FAB, both inside and > outside the filter? The hole inside will drain the goo you talk about, > and the hole outside will drain water. I found that the oily stuff > attacks the fiberglass of the FAB, and after about 400 hours I needed to > put some new layers of glass on the bottom inside of the FAB. You may > want to proseal on a fitting on the hole which is inside the filter, and > connect it to a little drain line to bring the slime to the back of the > cooling air exit. Otherwise, it seems to lubricate the nose gear > fairing. Don't use any fitting which will have a part inside the > filter! > > Alex Peterson > Maple Grove, MN > RV6-A N66AP 454 hours > > http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/ > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Shemp" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: 2 planes in one hangar?
Date: Apr 13, 2004
Im wondering if my little low wing 6a would fit in a "standard" hangar with a small-ish high wing, ie c150 or 172. The place I would like to keep her is in Schaumburg, about 5 miles from ORD, and has a waiting list of about 3 billion years. If it would fit, Im planning on approaching one of the current renters with an offer he cant refuse :) Jeff Dowling RV-6a/ 52 hours Chicago/ Louisville ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Burnett" <smileyburnett(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: Brake Reservoir
Date: Apr 13, 2004
Does this eliminate all the lines in a single brake system and what about dual brakes? Ron Burnett ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeff Point" <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Brake Reservoir > > I have the same setup as Mike (actually, mine is right-side-up) and I > like it. I did have to move a few of the spacers around to get the > reservoirs to miss each other, but they now clear by a good 1/4 inch. > The stock reservoir and lines look awfully leak prone, and I heard > enough horror stories about them to do it this way. > > Jeff Point > RV-6 14 hours > Milwaukee WI > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 13, 2004
From: Dave Durakovich <ddurakovich(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Engine overhaul?
Getting ready to redo a Lyc. O-360 for an RV-4, and would like local (or thereabouts) folks to work with if possible. I'm in Detroit, and I consider most of the mid-west as well as Western NY and PA as local. Pretty much going to do it all, and prefer to do it myself (disassembly/asembly/maybe the accessories), so any reccomendations for bottom end, case, and cylinder guys would be appreciated. I've already talked to G&N about doing a bottom end only and they politely declined - an insurance thing. Anyone know anything about Harrison Engine Service in LaPorte, IN? Thanks, Dave Durakovich --------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com>
Subject: 2 planes in one hangar?
Date: Apr 13, 2004
I have seen two RV6's in a single hangar. Small ramp to facilitate wing overlap. "Twas CLOSE. So *maybe* it could work. James > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Shemp > Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 10:15 AM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: 2 planes in one hangar? > > > Im wondering if my little low wing 6a would fit in a "standard" > hangar with a small-ish high wing, ie c150 or 172. The place I > would like to keep her is in Schaumburg, about 5 miles from ORD, > and has a waiting list of about 3 billion years. If it would > fit, Im planning on approaching one of the current renters with > an offer he cant refuse :) > > Jeff Dowling > RV-6a/ 52 hours > Chicago/ Louisville > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Travis Hamblen" <TravisHamblen(at)cox.net>
Subject: Wood prop...
Date: Apr 13, 2004
I am about to have my prop refinished and wanted some input from guys who have wood props. I have seen many props with the back of the prop painted black, is there a reason for this? Mine is just stained like the front and I don=92t have any visibility problems. Does this enhance the visibility through the prop in night flight or any other time, or maybe is it just for looks? Any other tips or things to ask for when I have the prop refinished would be greatly appreciated. This will be my first refinish of a wood prop so I want to get the best job done. The prop is an Ed Sterba prop (68x76 on my RV-6A w/ O-320) and it is a GREAT prop, it is pitched just right and I have not one complaint other than I can=92t fly it in the rain! I will be having Jeff at Props Inc doing the refinish, and I have heard good things about his service. Any input is VERY appreciated. Travis RV-6A @ VGT 335 hrs -- Checked by AVG Anti-Virus (http://www.grisoft.com). ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 13, 2004
Subject: Re: Bleeding brakes
In a message dated 4/13/04 7:30:04 AM US Eastern Standard Time, rick6a(at)yahoo.com writes: > Jeff, > > I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the same procedure you > outlined using a dedicated ACT pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the > reservoir fluid to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to a > week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear and collect at the high > point in the loops of the dual brake line system no matter what I do. Both > left and right brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes during the > bleeding process, l've used relatively high pressure, low pressure, but always > making sure the lines and overflow are absolutely bubble free before I stop > the process. Sure enough, after a period of time passes, usually after > several days, the bubbles reappear. The brakes *seem* okay when I depress them, > the bubbles merely migrate a bit when I depress the petals, but I have no way > to judge brake effectiveness until real world taxi tests. I would sure like > to see no bubbles at all in the lines at any time, what am I > overlooking.......thoughts? > > Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing" ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 13, 2004
Subject: Re: Bleeding brakes
Rick, Whoops! Please excuse the empty post. The air is probably not all out of the system. Maybe there are some small bubbles still trapped that finally collect at the highest point. I doubt if air is leaking in. Can you pull down on the plastic hoses, maybe tape them down temporarily, so that the air can escape up into the reservoir? Dan Hopper RV-7A (almost done) In a message dated 4/13/04 7:30:04 AM US Eastern Standard Time, rick6a(at)yahoo.com writes: > Jeff, > > I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the same procedure you > outlined using a dedicated ACT pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the > reservoir fluid to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to a > week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear and collect at the high > point in the loops of the dual brake line system no matter what I do. Both > left and right brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes during the > bleeding process, l've used relatively high pressure, low pressure, but always > making sure the lines and overflow are absolutely bubble free before I stop > the process. Sure enough, after a period of time passes, usually after > several days, the bubbles reappear. The brakes *seem* okay when I depress them, > the bubbles merely migrate a bit when I depress the petals, but I have no way > to judge brake effectiveness until real world taxi tests. I would sure like > to see no bubbles at all in the lines at any time, what am I > overlooking.......thoughts? > > Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing" ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 13, 2004
Subject: Re: 2 planes in one hangar?
Jeff, If your tail is low enough to go under the wing of the high wing it will probably fit. If the tail is low enough, make some scale "paper dolls" and try it on paper. Dan Hopper RV-7A (still almost done) In a message dated 4/13/04 9:21:41 AM US Eastern Standard Time, shempdowling(at)earthlink.net writes: > > > Im wondering if my little low wing 6a would fit in a "standard" hangar with > a small-ish high wing, ie c150 or 172. The place I would like to keep her is > in Schaumburg, about 5 miles from ORD, and has a waiting list of about 3 > billion years. If it would fit, Im planning on approaching one of the current > renters with an offer he cant refuse :) > > Jeff Dowling > RV-6a/ 52 hours > Chicago/ Louisville > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Travis Hamblen" <TravisHamblen(at)cox.net>
Subject: Wood prop
Date: Apr 13, 2004
I am about to have my prop refinished and wanted some input from guys who have wood props. I have seen many props with the back of the prop painted black, is there a reason for this? Mine is just stained like the front and I don=92t have any visibility problems. Does this enhance the visibility through the prop in night flight or any other time, or maybe is it just for looks? Any other tips or things to ask for when I have the prop refinished would be greatly appreciated. This will be my first refinish of a wood prop so I want to get the best job done. The prop is an Ed Sterba prop (68x76 on my RV-6A w/ O-320) and it is a GREAT prop, it is pitched just right and I have not one complaint other than I can=92t fly it in the rain! I will be having Jeff at Props Inc doing the refinish, and I have heard good things about his service. Any input is VERY appreciated. Travis RV-6A @ VGT 335 hrs -- Checked by AVG Anti-Virus (http://www.grisoft.com). ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 13, 2004
Subject: Re: Engine overhaul?
In a message dated 4/13/04 9:35:11 AM US Eastern Standard Time, ddurakovich(at)yahoo.com writes: > > Anyone know anything about Harrison Engine Service in LaPorte, IN? > > Thanks, > > Dave Durakovich > Dave, Harrison does only cylinders, I'm pretty sure. You're lucky G&N declined! Dan Hopper RV-7A (almost done) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 13, 2004
From: Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Brake Reservoir
Yes, it eliminates all the lines in you go single brake. If using dual, I would put the reservoirs on the pax side and run lines from the pax to the pilots side, thus eliminating one set of lines. Jeff Point >Does this eliminate all the lines in a single brake system and what about >dual brakes? >Ron Burnett > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com>
Subject: Re: 2 planes in one hangar?
Date: Apr 13, 2004
Jeff, It will likely fit. I've done this several times, when I've had RV's visiting me (I just slip them into a friend's hanger with his Cessna 175). Chuck ----- Original Message ----- From: Shemp <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> Subject: RV-List: 2 planes in one hangar? > > Im wondering if my little low wing 6a would fit in a "standard" hangar with a small-ish high wing, ie c150 or 172. The place I would like to keep her is in Schaumburg, about 5 miles from ORD, and has a waiting list of about 3 billion years. If it would fit, Im planning on approaching one of the current renters with an offer he cant refuse :) > > Jeff Dowling > RV-6a/ 52 hours > Chicago/ Louisville > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Thorne" <rv7a(at)cox.net>
Subject: Engine Decision-Sump Choice
Date: Apr 13, 2004
I've decided to go with an ECI or Superior O-360 Clone with fuel injection and dual electronic ignition, Plasma II Plus and a Plasma III. The final decision is the sump. Other than the lack of scoop is there any advantage to the horizontal sump to offset the added cost? Can you obtain any "Ram Air" effect with the Van's cowl? Jim Thorne RV-7A QB CHD ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 13, 2004
From: Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: 2 planes in one hangar?
Jeff, I share an approximately 43'X43' hangar that houses my C-150, a hangarmate's 172 and my unfinished RV-6A. Full to be sure but they all fit. The wings of the 172 will pass over the canopy of my 6A, but not so with my 150, but just barely. When my 150 happens to be spotted next to the RV, and I want to go flying, I have to put a blanket over the roll bar to keep from scratching the paint on the lower surface of the wing of the 150 as it slides over the top of the RV's roll bar (the windshield is not yet attached). If someone is available, I simply have them lift the wing slightly so that it clears the RV as I push or pull the 150 into or out of the hangar to clear the RV. Its a minor aggravation, but it works. Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing" > > > Im wondering if my little low wing 6a would fit in a "standard" hangar with > a small-ish high wing, ie c150 or 172. The place I would like to keep her is > in Schaumburg, about 5 miles from ORD, and has a waiting list of about 3 > billion years. If it would fit, Im planning on approaching one of the current > renters with an offer he cant refuse :) > > Jeff Dowling > RV-6a/ 52 hours > Chicago/ Louisville --------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com>
Subject: Wood prop
Date: Apr 13, 2004
We have an Ed Sterba prop on our O-320 RV6 as well. A couple of things to consider ... I recall Ed saying that paint imbalance can cause vibrations in the prop. Never mind ... I see you are having a shop do it that does this all the time. Many props are BLACK on the back so as to *not* reflect light from the STROBES. Making it white might be problematic. On a different note, what kind of performance do you get with this combo??? James > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Travis Hamblen > Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 11:19 AM > To: RV-List(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Wood prop > > > I am about to have my prop refinished and wanted some input from guys who > have wood props. I have seen many props with the back of the prop painted > black, is there a reason for this? Mine is just stained like the > front and > I don=92t have any visibility problems. Does this enhance the visibility > through the prop in night flight or any other time, or maybe is > it just for > looks? Any other tips or things to ask for when I have the prop > refinished > would be greatly appreciated. This will be my first refinish of > a wood prop > so I want to get the best job done. The prop is an Ed Sterba > prop (68x76 on > my RV-6A w/ O-320) and it is a GREAT prop, it is pitched just right and I > have not one complaint other than I can=92t fly it in the rain! I will be > having Jeff at Props Inc doing the refinish, and I have heard good things > about his service. Any input is VERY appreciated. > > > Travis > > RV-6A @ VGT 335 hrs > > > -- > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus (http://www.grisoft.com). > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 13, 2004
From: Louis Willig <larywil(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Bleeding brakes
> > > > > I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the same procedure you > > outlined using a dedicated ACT pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the > > reservoir fluid to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days > to a > > week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear and collect at > the high > > point in the loops of the dual brake line system no matter what I do. > > > > > > Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing" > > > > >It sounds like you have a leak in the system. > >Larry Pardue >Carlsbad, NM Larry & Rick, My old RV-4 couldn't be bled properly using any conceivable method suggested. There was always a one to two inch bubble in the upper loop or down by the wheel cylinder fitting. I finally ended up loosening the fitting on the wheel cylinder(just barely), and pressed down on the brake pedal to squeeze the air out. Later I loosened a fitting up near the master cylinder. It seems that, sometimes, there are loops and crannies that allow fluid to be pumped right by them. My current -4 seems to bleed very easily using the "oil can" or pressure bleeder that is standard in most shops. Go figure... PS... These bubbles never seemed to affect the feel or braking ability of the aircraft. Go figure that, too... Louis Louis I Willig 1640 Oakwood Dr. Penn Valley, PA 19072 610 668-4964 RV-4, N180PF ("Miss Viagra") 190HP IO-360, C/S prop ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Knicholas2(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 13, 2004
Subject: Re: 2 planes in one hangar?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Knicholas2(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 13, 2004
Subject: Re: 2 planes in one hangar?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Knicholas2(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 13, 2004
Subject: Re: 2 planes in one hangar?
A friend just installed an aero-lift in his hanger. (www.ArmAerospace.com) It is very cool although it makes me nervous seeing a beautiful Mooney houvering over a beautiful Beech. Appartently the insurance companies are ok with it because it did not affect his rates. ...yet another option.. Kim Nicholas Seattle - RV9A. Almost done!!!!! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Shemp" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: 2 planes in one hangar?
Date: Apr 13, 2004
How tall is the hangar? ----- Original Message ----- From: <Knicholas2(at)aol.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: 2 planes in one hangar? > > A friend just installed an aero-lift in his hanger. (www.ArmAerospace.com) > It is very cool although it makes me nervous seeing a beautiful Mooney > houvering over a beautiful Beech. Appartently the insurance companies are ok with it > because it did not affect his rates. ...yet another option.. > > Kim Nicholas > Seattle - RV9A. Almost done!!!!! > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gordon Robertson" <grobertson(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Brake Reservoir
Date: Apr 13, 2004
>>Some time back there was a post about using individual Reservoirs mounted on each >>master cyl. I could not find it in the archives. Have any of you done it this >>way and what are your thoughts/ I have done this on my RV-8. At first I thought it was a great idea, save hoses, chances of leakage, etc. But now I am not so sure. The first thing is that it restricts the travel of the pedals somewhat, the reservoir contacts the firewall if the pedals are adjusted fully forward. I have tried to think of ways to put the reservoir at the side of the pedal, but no luck. I have not made the final decision just yet, but you should check your clearances. Gordon Robertson RV-8 waiting for engine ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com>
Subject: Re: Bleeding brakes
Date: Apr 13, 2004
Here's something that might work for one person brake bleeding. At $10/ea it might be an interesting investment. http://www.cyclebrakes.com/Accessories.htm middle of the page. Mike Nellis RV-6 Fuselage N699BM 1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K http://bmnellis.com *** -----Original Message----- *** From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com *** [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Galati *** Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 7:27 AM *** To: jpoint(at)mindspring.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com *** Subject: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes *** *** *** *** Jeff, *** *** I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the *** same procedure you outlined using a dedicated ACT *** pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the reservoir fluid *** to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to *** a week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear *** and collect at the high point in the loops of the dual *** brake line system no matter what I do. Both left and right *** brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes during *** the bleeding process, l've used relatively high pressure, *** low pressure, but always making sure the lines and overflow *** are absolutely bubble free before I stop the process. Sure *** enough, after a period of time passes, usually after *** several days, the bubbles reappear. The brakes *seem* okay *** when I depress them, the bubbles merely migrate a bit when *** I depress the petals, but I have no way to judge brake *** effectiveness until real world taxi tests. I would sure *** like to see no bubbles at all in the lines at any time, *** what am I overlooking.......thoughts? *** *** Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing" *** *** *** A trick which was shown to me by an old A&P: get a hardware store *** pressure oil can and some 1/4 OD plastic tube. Attach the *** can (full of *** brake juice) with the tube to the brake bleeder screw. *** Attach a fitting *** w/ another tube to the reservoir, and run the tube into a *** jar. Open the *** bleed screw and pump the oil can until the fluid comes out at the *** reservoir end. Keep pumping until you are satisfied the air is out *** (which is easy to check- just tighten the bleed screw and *** try the brakes *** w/out disconnecting the apparatus.) Easy to do, and *** requires only one *** person. Just check the overflow jar once in a while, and *** don't let the *** oil can run dry. *** *** Jeff Point *** RV-6 14 hours *** Milwaukee *** *** *** *** --------------------------------- *** *** *** ============= *** Matronics Forums. *** ============= *** ============= *** ============= *** *** *** *** *** *** *** ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WHigg1170(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 13, 2004
Subject: Re: S/S roll bar brace RV6 Slider ?
Yes, I did. Right after I wrote the e mail just for the heck of it I checked it with a magnet and it was made of stainless steal. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 13, 2004
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: Brake Reservoir
I to put the reservoirs at the side of the pedals and no go. I moved them to the fire wall between the pedals just below the baggage compartment floor. I can add fluid by the access cover in the baggage compartment floor which is 1/4 inch above the reservoirs. Oh, this is on an 8a. > >>>Some time back there was a post about using individual Reservoirs mounted >on each >>>master cyl. I could not find it in the archives. Have any of you done it >this >>>way and what are your thoughts/ > > >I have done this on my RV-8. At first I thought it was a great idea, save >hoses, chances of leakage, etc. But now I am not so sure. The first thing >is that it restricts the travel of the pedals somewhat, the reservoir >contacts the firewall if the pedals are adjusted fully forward. I have >tried to think of ways to put the reservoir at the side of the pedal, but no >luck. I have not made the final decision just yet, but you should check >your clearances. > >Gordon Robertson > >RV-8 waiting for engine > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com>
Subject: Re: Bleeding brakes
Date: Apr 13, 2004
Mike, That's looks GREAT. But I don't know which one to order... they don't list my RV-4. Chuck ----- Original Message ----- From: Mike Nellis <mike(at)bmnellis.com> Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes > > Here's something that might work for one person brake bleeding. At $10/ea > it might be an interesting investment. > http://www.cyclebrakes.com/Accessories.htm middle of the page. > > Mike Nellis > RV-6 Fuselage N699BM > 1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K > http://bmnellis.com > > *** -----Original Message----- > *** From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > *** [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Galati > *** Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 7:27 AM > *** To: jpoint(at)mindspring.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com > *** Subject: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes > *** > *** > *** > *** Jeff, > *** > *** I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the > *** same procedure you outlined using a dedicated ACT > *** pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the reservoir fluid > *** to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to > *** a week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear > *** and collect at the high point in the loops of the dual > *** brake line system no matter what I do. Both left and right > *** brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes during > *** the bleeding process, l've used relatively high pressure, > *** low pressure, but always making sure the lines and overflow > *** are absolutely bubble free before I stop the process. Sure > *** enough, after a period of time passes, usually after > *** several days, the bubbles reappear. The brakes *seem* okay > *** when I depress them, the bubbles merely migrate a bit when > *** I depress the petals, but I have no way to judge brake > *** effectiveness until real world taxi tests. I would sure > *** like to see no bubbles at all in the lines at any time, > *** what am I overlooking.......thoughts? > *** > *** Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing" > *** > *** > *** A trick which was shown to me by an old A&P: get a hardware store > *** pressure oil can and some 1/4 OD plastic tube. Attach the > *** can (full of > *** brake juice) with the tube to the brake bleeder screw. > *** Attach a fitting > *** w/ another tube to the reservoir, and run the tube into a > *** jar. Open the > *** bleed screw and pump the oil can until the fluid comes out at the > *** reservoir end. Keep pumping until you are satisfied the air is out > *** (which is easy to check- just tighten the bleed screw and > *** try the brakes > *** w/out disconnecting the apparatus.) Easy to do, and > *** requires only one > *** person. Just check the overflow jar once in a while, and > *** don't let the > *** oil can run dry. > *** > *** Jeff Point > *** RV-6 14 hours > *** Milwaukee > *** > *** > *** > *** --------------------------------- > *** > *** > *** ============= > *** Matronics Forums. > *** ============= > *** ============= > *** ============= > *** > *** > *** > *** > *** > *** > *** > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 13, 2004
From: Bob Japundza <bjapundza(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Engine Decision-Sump Choice
Jim, Talk to Larry Vetterman--he has one of the new plastic sumps on his RV-4 and has a lot of good things to say about it. Hopping up a Lyc. without modifying or replacing the sump is a wasted effort IMO. In order to get more power out of these engines you have to get them to swallow more air and fuel, and improving the induction system is one thing you have to do in order to get those results. Bob Japundza RV-6 flying 500+ hours F1 QB under const. - highly modified sump and RSA-10 servo --------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "GMC" <gmcnutt(at)uniserve.com>
Subject: Re: Bleeding brakes
Date: Apr 13, 2004
> > I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the same procedure you > outlined using a dedicated ACT pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the > reservoir fluid to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to a > week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear and collect at the high > point in the loops of the dual brake line system no matter what I do. > > Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing" > Relax Gents Dual brakes on my 6A. During first filling I had no bubbles, then when drained for servicing and subsequent refill there was no way to eliminate the bubbles. I believe that is due to the slippery residue inside the lines, the brake fluid goes around the bubbles leaving them at the high spots. I tried regular oil can filling, pressure pot refilling from bottom and also tried a vacuum pump at reservoir with suction filling from below, no way could I eliminate seeing bubbles in brake line. Maybe I should paint the lines black to avoid seeing bubbles! Anyway my brakes have operated satisfactorily with bubbles at the high spots for 260+ hrs. George in Langley ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mark/Micki Phillips" <mphill(at)gcctv.com>
Subject: Re: Step for RV6
Date: Apr 13, 2004
Paul, I got a pair, give ya a good deal, primed with variprime. Do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Brown" <nightmare(at)adelphia.net> Subject: RV-List: Step for RV6 > > Has anybody ever put a step on an RV-6 (not -6A). I need to put one on my already built -6. > > Paul > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)QCBC.ORG>
Subject: Re: Bleeding brakes
Date: Apr 13, 2004
Unfortunately, those check ball bleeder screws are set up to pump fluid out of the wheel cylinder top by pressure from the master cylinder. Aircraft bleeder valves on the other hand are installed in the bottom of the cylinder and the fluid must be pumped in the opposite direction into the bottom up thru the master cylinder. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com> Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes > > Here's something that might work for one person brake bleeding. At $10/ea > it might be an interesting investment. > http://www.cyclebrakes.com/Accessories.htm middle of the page. > > Mike Nellis > RV-6 Fuselage N699BM > 1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K > http://bmnellis.com > > *** -----Original Message----- > *** From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > *** [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Galati > *** Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 7:27 AM > *** To: jpoint(at)mindspring.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com > *** Subject: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes > *** > *** > *** > *** Jeff, > *** > *** I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the > *** same procedure you outlined using a dedicated ACT > *** pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the reservoir fluid > *** to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to > *** a week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear > *** and collect at the high point in the loops of the dual > *** brake line system no matter what I do. Both left and right > *** brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes during > *** the bleeding process, l've used relatively high pressure, > *** low pressure, but always making sure the lines and overflow > *** are absolutely bubble free before I stop the process. Sure > *** enough, after a period of time passes, usually after > *** several days, the bubbles reappear. The brakes *seem* okay > *** when I depress them, the bubbles merely migrate a bit when > *** I depress the petals, but I have no way to judge brake > *** effectiveness until real world taxi tests. I would sure > *** like to see no bubbles at all in the lines at any time, > *** what am I overlooking.......thoughts? > *** > *** Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing" > *** > *** > *** A trick which was shown to me by an old A&P: get a hardware store > *** pressure oil can and some 1/4 OD plastic tube. Attach the > *** can (full of > *** brake juice) with the tube to the brake bleeder screw. > *** Attach a fitting > *** w/ another tube to the reservoir, and run the tube into a > *** jar. Open the > *** bleed screw and pump the oil can until the fluid comes out at the > *** reservoir end. Keep pumping until you are satisfied the air is out > *** (which is easy to check- just tighten the bleed screw and > *** try the brakes > *** w/out disconnecting the apparatus.) Easy to do, and > *** requires only one > *** person. Just check the overflow jar once in a while, and > *** don't let the > *** oil can run dry. > *** > *** Jeff Point > *** RV-6 14 hours > *** Milwaukee > *** > *** > *** > *** --------------------------------- > *** > *** > *** ============= > *** Matronics Forums. > *** ============= > *** ============= > *** ============= > *** > *** > *** > *** > *** > *** > *** > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com>
Subject: Re: Bleeding brakes
Date: Apr 13, 2004
I dis-agree. It seems to me that the motorcycle hydraulic brakes system is set up almost identical to our system, especially those of us who have installed the reservoir on the master cylinder. Chuck ----- Original Message ----- From: Cy Galley <cgalley(at)QCBC.ORG> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes > > Unfortunately, those check ball bleeder screws are set up to pump fluid out > of the wheel cylinder top by pressure from the master cylinder. > > Aircraft bleeder valves on the other hand are installed in the bottom of the > cylinder and the fluid must be pumped in the opposite direction into the > bottom up thru the master cylinder. > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com> > To: > Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes > > > > > > Here's something that might work for one person brake bleeding. At $10/ea > > it might be an interesting investment. > > http://www.cyclebrakes.com/Accessories.htm middle of the page. > > > > Mike Nellis > > RV-6 Fuselage N699BM > > 1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K > > http://bmnellis.com > > > > *** -----Original Message----- > > *** From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > > *** [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Galati > > *** Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 7:27 AM > > *** To: jpoint(at)mindspring.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com > > *** Subject: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes > > *** > > *** > > *** > > *** Jeff, > > *** > > *** I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the > > *** same procedure you outlined using a dedicated ACT > > *** pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the reservoir fluid > > *** to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to > > *** a week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear > > *** and collect at the high point in the loops of the dual > > *** brake line system no matter what I do. Both left and right > > *** brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes during > > *** the bleeding process, l've used relatively high pressure, > > *** low pressure, but always making sure the lines and overflow > > *** are absolutely bubble free before I stop the process. Sure > > *** enough, after a period of time passes, usually after > > *** several days, the bubbles reappear. The brakes *seem* okay > > *** when I depress them, the bubbles merely migrate a bit when > > *** I depress the petals, but I have no way to judge brake > > *** effectiveness until real world taxi tests. I would sure > > *** like to see no bubbles at all in the lines at any time, > > *** what am I overlooking.......thoughts? > > *** > > *** Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing" > > *** > > *** > > *** A trick which was shown to me by an old A&P: get a hardware store > > *** pressure oil can and some 1/4 OD plastic tube. Attach the > > *** can (full of > > *** brake juice) with the tube to the brake bleeder screw. > > *** Attach a fitting > > *** w/ another tube to the reservoir, and run the tube into a > > *** jar. Open the > > *** bleed screw and pump the oil can until the fluid comes out at the > > *** reservoir end. Keep pumping until you are satisfied the air is out > > *** (which is easy to check- just tighten the bleed screw and > > *** try the brakes > > *** w/out disconnecting the apparatus.) Easy to do, and > > *** requires only one > > *** person. Just check the overflow jar once in a while, and > > *** don't let the > > *** oil can run dry. > > *** > > *** Jeff Point > > *** RV-6 14 hours > > *** Milwaukee > > *** > > *** > > *** > > *** --------------------------------- > > *** > > *** > > *** ============= > > *** Matronics Forums. > > *** ============= > > *** ============= > > *** ============= > > *** > > *** > > *** > > *** > > *** > > *** > > *** > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Travis Hamblen" <TravisHamblen(at)cox.net>
Subject: Fuel pressure gauge for sale
Date: Apr 13, 2004
I have a Mitchell fuel pressure gauge for sale. It is in PERFECT condition, just went to a different system so I don=92t need this one. I have pictures available and whoever buys this can rest assured that it works perfectly. I still have the box it came in, bubble wrap it was wrapped in and the receipt from Aircraft Spruce. I will give you everything. It is part number 10-10152 at Aircraft Spruce (Mitchell part number D1-211-6064) and is $89.00 plus shipping was $7.47 for a total of $96.47. I will sell it to you for $65.00 which INCLUDES SHIPPING! I can accept credit card payments if necessary. This is a good deal for a fellow RV owner. E-mail me to make arrangements. Travis Hamblen HYPERLINK "mailto:TravisHamblen(at)cox.net"TravisHamblen(at)cox.net RV-6A @ VGT -- Checked by AVG Anti-Virus (http://www.grisoft.com). ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Shemp" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: No RV-10 at SnF
Date: Apr 13, 2004
I just heard from a friend down there that Tom Green said the 10 had some problems on the way down and wont make the airshow. Something about a door latch maybe..... Jeff ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Neil Henderson" <neil.mo51(at)btopenworld.com>
Subject: Re: S/S roll bar brace RV6 Slider ?
Date: Apr 14, 2004
Bill I think you will find the standard support bar that is supplied by Van's is non magnetic. Neil Henderson RV9-A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce Meacham" <bruce_meacham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-3 for sale
Date: Apr 13, 2004
See add as posted on Barnstormers for pictures: http://www.barnstormers.com/listing.php?id34843 RV-3 '91 610 TTAE 50 STOH (Mattituck), O-320 E2C 150hp immaculate. New paint job, Dynon EFIS, Micro Monitor, Garmin 195, Becker 4201 Comm, mode-c transponder, night equipped, a true 10/10! Earnest money required. $31,500 Contact: Brock Vaughn - located Bedford, MA USA Telephone: 781-354-6656 or Bruce Meacham (978)-557-9378 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mickey & Paula" <mimartin(at)sweetwaterhsa.com>
Subject: Rude Pilot
Date: Apr 13, 2004
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 13, 2004
From: Dale Walker <davawalker(at)nwboronet.com>
Subject: Re: Engine overhaul?
> >Getting ready to redo a Lyc. O-360 for an RV-4, and would like local (or >thereabouts) >folks to work with if possible. I'm in Detroit, and I consider most of >the mid-west as well as Western NY and PA as local. > >Pretty much going to do it all, and prefer to do it myself >(disassembly/asembly/maybe >the accessories), so any reccomendations for bottom end, case, and cylinder >guys would be appreciated. > >I've already talked to G&N about doing a bottom end only and they politely >declined - an insurance thing. > >Anyone know anything about Harrison Engine Service in LaPorte, IN? > >Thanks, > >Dave Durakovich > >Dave, In my experience they do a very,very poor job on cylinders. Dale Walker-RV7 > >--------------------------------- > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)QCBC.ORG>
Subject: Re: Bleeding brakes
Date: Apr 13, 2004
You can't use any of them as the threads are METRIC not SAE! ----- Original Message ----- From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes > > Mike, > > That's looks GREAT. But I don't know which one to order... they don't > list my RV-4. > > Chuck > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Mike Nellis <mike(at)bmnellis.com> > To: > Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes > > > > > > Here's something that might work for one person brake bleeding. At $10/ea > > it might be an interesting investment. > > http://www.cyclebrakes.com/Accessories.htm middle of the page. > > > > Mike Nellis > > RV-6 Fuselage N699BM > > 1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K > > http://bmnellis.com > > > > *** -----Original Message----- > > *** From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > > *** [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Galati > > *** Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 7:27 AM > > *** To: jpoint(at)mindspring.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com > > *** Subject: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes > > *** > > *** > > *** > > *** Jeff, > > *** > > *** I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the > > *** same procedure you outlined using a dedicated ACT > > *** pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the reservoir fluid > > *** to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to > > *** a week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear > > *** and collect at the high point in the loops of the dual > > *** brake line system no matter what I do. Both left and right > > *** brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes during > > *** the bleeding process, l've used relatively high pressure, > > *** low pressure, but always making sure the lines and overflow > > *** are absolutely bubble free before I stop the process. Sure > > *** enough, after a period of time passes, usually after > > *** several days, the bubbles reappear. The brakes *seem* okay > > *** when I depress them, the bubbles merely migrate a bit when > > *** I depress the petals, but I have no way to judge brake > > *** effectiveness until real world taxi tests. I would sure > > *** like to see no bubbles at all in the lines at any time, > > *** what am I overlooking.......thoughts? > > *** > > *** Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing" > > *** > > *** > > *** A trick which was shown to me by an old A&P: get a hardware store > > *** pressure oil can and some 1/4 OD plastic tube. Attach the > > *** can (full of > > *** brake juice) with the tube to the brake bleeder screw. > > *** Attach a fitting > > *** w/ another tube to the reservoir, and run the tube into a > > *** jar. Open the > > *** bleed screw and pump the oil can until the fluid comes out at the > > *** reservoir end. Keep pumping until you are satisfied the air is out > > *** (which is easy to check- just tighten the bleed screw and > > *** try the brakes > > *** w/out disconnecting the apparatus.) Easy to do, and > > *** requires only one > > *** person. Just check the overflow jar once in a while, and > > *** don't let the > > *** oil can run dry. > > *** > > *** Jeff Point > > *** RV-6 14 hours > > *** Milwaukee > > *** > > *** > > *** > > *** --------------------------------- > > *** > > *** > > *** ============= > > *** Matronics Forums. > > *** ============= > > *** ============= > > *** ============= > > *** > > *** > > *** > > *** > > *** > > *** > > *** > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 13, 2004
Subject: Re: Engine overhaul?
Dave, My friend and instructor had his Warrior overhauled by: Kline Aviation 8725 Crego Rd. Brooklyn MI 49230 517-592-2316 He has done several engines around here and everyone has been happy with his work. Dan Hopper Near Peru, IN RV-7A (almost done) In a message dated 4/13/04 9:35:11 AM US Eastern Standard Time, ddurakovich(at)yahoo.com writes: > > > Getting ready to redo a Lyc. O-360 for an RV-4, and would like local (or > thereabouts) > folks to work with if possible. I'm in Detroit, and I consider most of > the mid-west as well as Western NY and PA as local. > > Pretty much going to do it all, and prefer to do it myself > (disassembly/asembly/maybe > the accessories), so any reccomendations for bottom end, case, and cylinder > guys would be appreciated. > > I've already talked to G&N about doing a bottom end only and they politely > declined - an insurance thing. > > Anyone know anything about Harrison Engine Service in LaPorte, IN? > > Thanks, > > Dave Durakovich > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com>
Subject: Re: Bleeding brakes
Date: Apr 13, 2004
...ah you are correct! ----- Original Message ----- From: Cy Galley <cgalley(at)QCBC.ORG> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes > > You can't use any of them as the threads are METRIC not SAE! > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> > To: > Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes > > > > > > Mike, > > > > That's looks GREAT. But I don't know which one to order... they don't > > list my RV-4. > > > > Chuck > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: Mike Nellis <mike(at)bmnellis.com> > > To: > > Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes > > > > > > > > > > Here's something that might work for one person brake bleeding. At > $10/ea > > > it might be an interesting investment. > > > http://www.cyclebrakes.com/Accessories.htm middle of the page. > > > > > > Mike Nellis > > > RV-6 Fuselage N699BM > > > 1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K > > > http://bmnellis.com > > > > > > *** -----Original Message----- > > > *** From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > > > *** [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Galati > > > *** Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 7:27 AM > > > *** To: jpoint(at)mindspring.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com > > > *** Subject: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes > > > *** > > > *** > > > *** > > > *** Jeff, > > > *** > > > *** I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the > > > *** same procedure you outlined using a dedicated ACT > > > *** pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the reservoir fluid > > > *** to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to > > > *** a week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear > > > *** and collect at the high point in the loops of the dual > > > *** brake line system no matter what I do. Both left and right > > > *** brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes during > > > *** the bleeding process, l've used relatively high pressure, > > > *** low pressure, but always making sure the lines and overflow > > > *** are absolutely bubble free before I stop the process. Sure > > > *** enough, after a period of time passes, usually after > > > *** several days, the bubbles reappear. The brakes *seem* okay > > > *** when I depress them, the bubbles merely migrate a bit when > > > *** I depress the petals, but I have no way to judge brake > > > *** effectiveness until real world taxi tests. I would sure > > > *** like to see no bubbles at all in the lines at any time, > > > *** what am I overlooking.......thoughts? > > > *** > > > *** Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing" > > > *** > > > *** > > > *** A trick which was shown to me by an old A&P: get a hardware store > > > *** pressure oil can and some 1/4 OD plastic tube. Attach the > > > *** can (full of > > > *** brake juice) with the tube to the brake bleeder screw. > > > *** Attach a fitting > > > *** w/ another tube to the reservoir, and run the tube into a > > > *** jar. Open the > > > *** bleed screw and pump the oil can until the fluid comes out at the > > > *** reservoir end. Keep pumping until you are satisfied the air is out > > > *** (which is easy to check- just tighten the bleed screw and > > > *** try the brakes > > > *** w/out disconnecting the apparatus.) Easy to do, and > > > *** requires only one > > > *** person. Just check the overflow jar once in a while, and > > > *** don't let the > > > *** oil can run dry. > > > *** > > > *** Jeff Point > > > *** RV-6 14 hours > > > *** Milwaukee > > > *** > > > *** > > > *** > > > *** --------------------------------- > > > *** > > > *** > > > *** ============= > > > *** Matronics Forums. > > > *** ============= > > > *** ============= > > > *** ============= > > > *** > > > *** > > > *** > > > *** > > > *** > > > *** > > > *** > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 13, 2004
Subject: Re: Bleeding brakes
Rick, If the bubbles reappear, you may be pumping air into the system with a leaky pump. If you can use higher pressure and make the fluid flow faster, I would think that you could push the air into the reservoir and not have it reappear. Put a line on the reservoir to catch all that fluid! You need to get that air out, or the right side brakes won't work right. Another idea is to raise the right wing as much as possible to avoid downhill runs of fluid while you're pumping fluid in. I think the problem is that the lines are 1/4 inch. Smaller lines would work fine and would not allow the fluid to pass under the air at the high points like the large lines do. Most cars use 3/16 brake lines. Smaller lines also can also handle higher pressure at the same wall thickness. I was off base when I suggested lowering the high points. I will probably have the same problem when I try to bleed mine. There's some more ideas. Hope something helps. Dan Hopper RV-7A (almost done and headed to S-n-F tomorrow my RV-wanna-be a Grumman AA1-C) In a message dated 4/13/04 7:30:04 AM US Eastern Standard Time, rick6a(at)yahoo.com writes: > > > Jeff, > > I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the same procedure you > outlined using a dedicated ACT pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the > reservoir fluid to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to a > week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear and collect at the high > point in the loops of the dual brake line system no matter what I do. Both > left and right brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes during the > bleeding process, l've used relatively high pressure, low pressure, but always > making sure the lines and overflow are absolutely bubble free before I stop > the process. Sure enough, after a period of time passes, usually after > several days, the bubbles reappear. The brakes *seem* okay when I depress them, > the bubbles merely migrate a bit when I depress the petals, but I have no way > to judge brake effectiveness until real world taxi tests. I would sure like > to see no bubbles at all in the lines at any time, what am I > overlooking.......thoughts? > > Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing" > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 13, 2004
From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Wood prop
Travis Hamblen wrote: > >I am about to have my prop refinished and wanted some input from guys who >have wood props. I have seen many props with the back of the prop painted >black, is there a reason for this? Mine is just stained like the front and >I don=92t have any visibility problems. Does this enhance the visibility >through the prop in night flight or any other time, or maybe is it just for >looks? Any other tips or things to ask for when I have the prop refinished >would be greatly appreciated. This will be my first refinish of a wood prop >so I want to get the best job done. The prop is an Ed Sterba prop (68x76 on >my RV-6A w/ O-320) and it is a GREAT prop, it is pitched just right and I >have not one complaint other than I can=92t fly it in the rain! I will be >having Jeff at Props Inc doing the refinish, and I have heard good things >about his service. Any input is VERY appreciated. > > >Travis > >RV-6A @ VGT 335 hrs > > > If you ever try to land with the sun at your back in the late afternoon you well see why the back of the prop is painted black. It is like a big mirror. Jerry ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard McCraw" <rmccraw(at)wcvt.com>
Subject: Engine overhaul?
Date: Apr 13, 2004
Penn Yan Aero in upstate New York (KPEO) has been in business for a long time and has a good reputation in these parts. I've met the owner and came away with a positive impression Rick RV-7, empennage in the box ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 13, 2004
Subject: Re: Bleeding brakes
Rick, I had another bright(?) idea. Take the bottom bolts out of the right side master cylinders and tip them up while bleeding. Wouldn't this eliminate the downhill run? Dan Hopper RV-7A (almost done) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com>
Subject: No RV-10 at SnF
Date: Apr 13, 2004
that is what they told me at the booth today Brian Kraut Engineering Alternatives, Inc. www.engalt.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Shemp Subject: RV-List: No RV-10 at SnF I just heard from a friend down there that Tom Green said the 10 had some problems on the way down and wont make the airshow. Something about a door latch maybe..... Jeff ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: Re: Bleeding brakes
Date: Apr 13, 2004
Has anyone tried the all-in-one matco brakes, the MC5? No remote or external reservoir needed. http://www.chiefaircraft.com/cgi-bin/frame/frame-aircraft.cgi?URL=/Aircr aft/Brakes/MasterCylinders.html - Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com > -----Original Message----- > From: C. Rabaut [mailto:crabaut(at)coalinga.com] > Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 6:23 PM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes > > > > I dis-agree. > It seems to me that the motorcycle hydraulic brakes system is > set up almost identical to our system, especially those of us > who have installed the reservoir on the master cylinder. > > Chuck > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Cy Galley <cgalley(at)QCBC.ORG> > To: > Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes > > > > > > Unfortunately, those check ball bleeder screws are set up to pump > > fluid > out > > of the wheel cylinder top by pressure from the master cylinder. > > > > Aircraft bleeder valves on the other hand are installed in > the bottom > > of > the > > cylinder and the fluid must be pumped in the opposite > direction into > > the bottom up thru the master cylinder. > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com> > > To: > > Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes > > > > > > > > > > Here's something that might work for one person brake > bleeding. At > $10/ea > > > it might be an interesting investment. > > > http://www.cyclebrakes.com/Accessories.htm middle of the page. > > > > > > Mike Nellis > > > RV-6 Fuselage N699BM > > > 1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K > > > http://bmnellis.com > > > > > > *** -----Original Message----- > > > *** From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > > > *** [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick > > > Galati > > > *** Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 7:27 AM > > > *** To: jpoint(at)mindspring.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com > > > *** Subject: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes > > > *** > > > *** > > > *** > > > *** Jeff, > > > *** > > > *** I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the > > > *** same procedure you outlined using a dedicated ACT > > > *** pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the reservoir fluid > > > *** to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to > > > *** a week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear > > > *** and collect at the high point in the loops of the dual > > > *** brake line system no matter what I do. Both left and right > > > *** brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes during > > > *** the bleeding process, l've used relatively high pressure, > > > *** low pressure, but always making sure the lines and overflow > > > *** are absolutely bubble free before I stop the process. Sure > > > *** enough, after a period of time passes, usually after > > > *** several days, the bubbles reappear. The brakes *seem* okay > > > *** when I depress them, the bubbles merely migrate a bit when > > > *** I depress the petals, but I have no way to judge brake > > > *** effectiveness until real world taxi tests. I would sure > > > *** like to see no bubbles at all in the lines at any time, > > > *** what am I overlooking.......thoughts? > > > *** > > > *** Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing" > > > *** > > > *** > > > *** A trick which was shown to me by an old A&P: get a > hardware store > > > *** pressure oil can and some 1/4 OD plastic tube. Attach the > > > *** can (full of > > > *** brake juice) with the tube to the brake bleeder screw. > > > *** Attach a fitting > > > *** w/ another tube to the reservoir, and run the tube into a > > > *** jar. Open the > > > *** bleed screw and pump the oil can until the fluid > comes out at the > > > *** reservoir end. Keep pumping until you are satisfied > the air is out > > > *** (which is easy to check- just tighten the bleed screw and > > > *** try the brakes > > > *** w/out disconnecting the apparatus.) Easy to do, and > > > *** requires only one > > > *** person. Just check the overflow jar once in a while, and > > > *** don't let the > > > *** oil can run dry. > > > *** > > > *** Jeff Point > > > *** RV-6 14 hours > > > *** Milwaukee ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com>
"vansairforce"
Subject: Cylinder Work...
Date: Apr 13, 2004
Any recommendations on where to send my cylinders? I need an exhaust port welded on one, new exhaust guides in 3, seats ground and a light hone on all 4... Oh, and did I mention I'm on a budget? ;) Thanks! -Bill VonDane RV-8A - Colorado www.vondane.com www.creativair.com www.epanelbuilder.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 13, 2004
From: Finn Lassen <finn.lassen(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: No RV-10 at SnF
You mean you can't use the doors in the RV-10 as extra wings? :) Finn Shemp wrote: > >I just heard from a friend down there that Tom Green said the 10 had some problems on the way down and wont make the airshow. Something about a door latch maybe..... > >Jeff > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 13, 2004
From: SCOTT MORGAN <sdmorgan(at)prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Cylinder Work...
Gibson Aviation El Reno OK The have an ad in TAP every month. I have sent cyls over the years. Very reputable shop with integrity. Ask for Marshall. Regards, Scott --- Bill VonDane wrote: > > Any recommendations on where to send my cylinders? > > I need an exhaust port welded on one, new exhaust guides in 3, seats > ground and a light hone on all 4... > > Oh, and did I mention I'm on a budget? ;) > > Thanks! > > -Bill VonDane > RV-8A - Colorado > www.vondane.com > www.creativair.com > www.epanelbuilder.com > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 13, 2004
From: Dj Merrill <deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu>
Subject: Re: No RV-10 at SnF
Shemp wrote: > >I just heard from a friend down there that Tom Green said the 10 had some problems on the way down and wont make the airshow. Something about a door latch maybe..... > >Jeff > > > They told me the same thing when I asked at the Van's booth. -Dj -- Dj Merrill Thayer School of Engineering Assoc. Director of Technical Services 8000 Cummings Hall deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu - N1JOV Dartmouth College,Hanover,NH 03755 "On the side of the software box, in the 'System Requirements' section, it said 'Requires Windows 95 or better'. So I installed Linux." -Anonymous ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com>
Subject: Re: Bleeding brakes
Date: Apr 13, 2004
It shouldn't matter should it? The spring hold the check ball in place so why would the orientation matter? Do you think the air would be reluctant to release with the bleeder pointed down? Is that why it's recommended to use the oil can method? Haven't done it on an RV yet so I don't have any experience. *** -----Original Message----- *** From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com *** [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Cy Galley *** Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 5:10 PM *** To: rv-list(at)matronics.com *** Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes *** *** *** *** Unfortunately, those check ball bleeder screws are set up *** to pump fluid out of the wheel cylinder top by pressure *** from the master cylinder. *** *** Aircraft bleeder valves on the other hand are installed in *** the bottom of the cylinder and the fluid must be pumped in *** the opposite direction into the bottom up thru the master cylinder. *** *** *** ----- Original Message ----- *** From: "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com> *** To: *** Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes *** *** *** > *** > Here's something that might work for one person brake *** bleeding. At *** > $10/ea it might be an interesting investment. *** > http://www.cyclebrakes.com/Accessories.htm middle of the page. *** > *** > Mike Nellis *** > RV-6 Fuselage N699BM *** > 1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K *** > http://bmnellis.com *** > *** > *** -----Original Message----- *** > *** From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com *** > *** [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick *** > Galati *** > *** Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 7:27 AM *** > *** To: jpoint(at)mindspring.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com *** > *** Subject: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes *** > *** *** > *** *** > *** *** > *** Jeff, *** > *** *** > *** I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the *** > *** same procedure you outlined using a dedicated ACT *** > *** pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the reservoir fluid *** > *** to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to *** > *** a week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear *** > *** and collect at the high point in the loops of the dual *** > *** brake line system no matter what I do. Both left and right *** > *** brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes during *** > *** the bleeding process, l've used relatively high pressure, *** > *** low pressure, but always making sure the lines and overflow *** > *** are absolutely bubble free before I stop the process. Sure *** > *** enough, after a period of time passes, usually after *** > *** several days, the bubbles reappear. The brakes *seem* okay *** > *** when I depress them, the bubbles merely migrate a bit when *** > *** I depress the petals, but I have no way to judge brake *** > *** effectiveness until real world taxi tests. I would sure *** > *** like to see no bubbles at all in the lines at any time, *** > *** what am I overlooking.......thoughts? *** > *** *** > *** Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing" *** > *** *** > *** *** > *** A trick which was shown to me by an old A&P: get a *** hardware store *** > *** pressure oil can and some 1/4 OD plastic tube. Attach the *** > *** can (full of *** > *** brake juice) with the tube to the brake bleeder screw. *** > *** Attach a fitting *** > *** w/ another tube to the reservoir, and run the tube into a *** > *** jar. Open the *** > *** bleed screw and pump the oil can until the fluid *** comes out at the *** > *** reservoir end. Keep pumping until you are satisfied *** the air is out *** > *** (which is easy to check- just tighten the bleed screw and *** > *** try the brakes *** > *** w/out disconnecting the apparatus.) Easy to do, and *** > *** requires only one *** > *** person. Just check the overflow jar once in a while, and *** > *** don't let the *** > *** oil can run dry. *** > *** *** > *** Jeff Point *** > *** RV-6 14 hours *** > *** Milwaukee *** > *** *** > *** *** > *** *** > *** --------------------------------- *** > *** *** > *** *** > *** ============= *** > *** Matronics Forums. *** > *** ============= *** > *** ============= *** > *** ============= *** > *** *** > *** *** > *** *** > *** *** > *** *** > *** *** > *** *** > *** > *** *** *** ============= *** Matronics Forums. *** ============= *** ============= *** ============= *** *** *** *** *** *** ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com>
Subject: Re: Bleeding brakes
Date: Apr 13, 2004
No THAT makes sense. :) It's touch to put a square peg in a round hole. Thanks Cy. Mike Nellis RV-6 Fuselage N699BM 1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K http://bmnellis.com *** *** You can't use any of them as the threads are METRIC not SAE! *** *** ----- Original Message ----- *** From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> *** To: *** Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes *** *** *** > *** > Mike, *** > *** > That's looks GREAT. But I don't know which one to *** order... they *** > don't list my RV-4. *** > *** > Chuck *** > *** > ----- Original Message ----- *** > From: Mike Nellis <mike(at)bmnellis.com> *** > To: *** > Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes *** > *** > *** > > *** > > Here's something that might work for one person brake *** bleeding. At *** $10/ea *** > > it might be an interesting investment. *** > > http://www.cyclebrakes.com/Accessories.htm middle of the page. *** > > *** > > Mike Nellis *** > > RV-6 Fuselage N699BM *** > > 1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K *** > > http://bmnellis.com *** > > *** > > *** -----Original Message----- *** > > *** From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com *** > > *** [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On *** Behalf Of Rick *** > > Galati *** > > *** Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 7:27 AM *** > > *** To: jpoint(at)mindspring.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com *** > > *** Subject: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes *** > > *** *** > > *** *** *** > > *** *** > > *** Jeff, *** > > *** *** > > *** I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the *** > > *** same procedure you outlined using a dedicated ACT *** > > *** pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the reservoir fluid *** > > *** to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to *** > > *** a week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear *** > > *** and collect at the high point in the loops of the dual *** > > *** brake line system no matter what I do. Both left and right *** > > *** brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes during *** > > *** the bleeding process, l've used relatively high pressure, *** > > *** low pressure, but always making sure the lines and overflow *** > > *** are absolutely bubble free before I stop the process. Sure *** > > *** enough, after a period of time passes, usually after *** > > *** several days, the bubbles reappear. The brakes *seem* okay *** > > *** when I depress them, the bubbles merely migrate a bit when *** > > *** I depress the petals, but I have no way to judge brake *** > > *** effectiveness until real world taxi tests. I would sure *** > > *** like to see no bubbles at all in the lines at any time, *** > > *** what am I overlooking.......thoughts? *** > > *** *** > > *** Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing" *** > > *** *** > > *** *** > > *** A trick which was shown to me by an old A&P: get a *** hardware store *** > > *** pressure oil can and some 1/4 OD plastic tube. Attach the *** > > *** can (full of *** > > *** brake juice) with the tube to the brake bleeder screw. *** > > *** Attach a fitting *** > > *** w/ another tube to the reservoir, and run the tube into a *** > > *** jar. Open the *** > > *** bleed screw and pump the oil can until the fluid *** comes out at the *** > > *** reservoir end. Keep pumping until you are *** satisfied the air is out *** > > *** (which is easy to check- just tighten the bleed screw and *** > > *** try the brakes *** > > *** w/out disconnecting the apparatus.) Easy to do, and *** > > *** requires only one *** > > *** person. Just check the overflow jar once in a while, and *** > > *** don't let the *** > > *** oil can run dry. *** > > *** *** > > *** Jeff Point *** > > *** RV-6 14 hours *** > > *** Milwaukee *** > > *** *** > > *** *** > > *** *** > > *** --------------------------------- *** > > *** *** > > *** *** > > *** ============= *** > > *** Matronics Forums. *** > > *** ============= *** > > *** ============= *** > > *** ============= *** > > *** *** > > *** *** > > *** *** > > *** *** > > *** *** > > *** *** > > *** *** > > *** > > *** > *** > *** *** *** ============= *** Matronics Forums. *** ============= *** ============= *** ============= *** *** *** *** *** *** *** ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: S & F Fuel Stop?
Date: Apr 14, 2004
Heading to S & F tonight. Can anyone recommend a fuel stop/camping around Waycross, GA (AYS)? ERic-- GodSpeed Aviation RV-8A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)QCBC.ORG>
Subject: Re: Bleeding brakes
Date: Apr 14, 2004
First and foremost these "plugs" are METRIC. They won't fit your aircraft brakes. Second, they are designed to let out the air under pressure from the master cylinder. Third, because of the longer vertical rise of aircraft systems, most fill and bleed from the wheel cylinder up. Fourth, There are two locations for fittings. Generally the bottom is the valve or plug, the top the brake line. As air rises in the brake fluid, the air has to be forced out the top. If you reverse the positions, (tapped hole is the same) you will trap air in the brake line instead of the wheel cylinder. As it is, forcing the brake fluid up pushes the air up into the large master cylinder reservoir. Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh Editor, EAA Safety Programs cgalley(at)qcbc.org or sportpilot(at)eaa.org Always looking for articles for Sport Pilot ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com> Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes > > It shouldn't matter should it? The spring hold the check ball in place so > why would the orientation matter? Do you think the air would be reluctant > to release with the bleeder pointed down? Is that why it's recommended to > use the oil can method? Haven't done it on an RV yet so I don't have any > experience. > > *** -----Original Message----- > *** From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > *** [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Cy Galley > *** Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 5:10 PM > *** To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > *** Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes > *** > *** > *** > *** Unfortunately, those check ball bleeder screws are set up > *** to pump fluid out of the wheel cylinder top by pressure > *** from the master cylinder. > *** > *** Aircraft bleeder valves on the other hand are installed in > *** the bottom of the cylinder and the fluid must be pumped in > *** the opposite direction into the bottom up thru the master cylinder. > *** > *** > *** ----- Original Message ----- > *** From: "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com> > *** To: > *** Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes > *** > *** > *** > > *** > Here's something that might work for one person brake > *** bleeding. At > *** > $10/ea it might be an interesting investment. > *** > http://www.cyclebrakes.com/Accessories.htm middle of the page. > *** > > *** > Mike Nellis > *** > RV-6 Fuselage N699BM > *** > 1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K > *** > http://bmnellis.com > *** > > *** > *** -----Original Message----- > *** > *** From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > *** > *** [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick > *** > Galati > *** > *** Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 7:27 AM > *** > *** To: jpoint(at)mindspring.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com > *** > *** Subject: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes > *** > *** > *** > *** > *** > *** > *** > *** Jeff, > *** > *** > *** > *** I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the > *** > *** same procedure you outlined using a dedicated ACT > *** > *** pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the reservoir fluid > *** > *** to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to > *** > *** a week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear > *** > *** and collect at the high point in the loops of the dual > *** > *** brake line system no matter what I do. Both left and right > *** > *** brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes during > *** > *** the bleeding process, l've used relatively high pressure, > *** > *** low pressure, but always making sure the lines and overflow > *** > *** are absolutely bubble free before I stop the process. Sure > *** > *** enough, after a period of time passes, usually after > *** > *** several days, the bubbles reappear. The brakes *seem* okay > *** > *** when I depress them, the bubbles merely migrate a bit when > *** > *** I depress the petals, but I have no way to judge brake > *** > *** effectiveness until real world taxi tests. I would sure > *** > *** like to see no bubbles at all in the lines at any time, > *** > *** what am I overlooking.......thoughts? > *** > *** > *** > *** Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing" > *** > *** > *** > *** > *** > *** A trick which was shown to me by an old A&P: get a > *** hardware store > *** > *** pressure oil can and some 1/4 OD plastic tube. Attach the > *** > *** can (full of > *** > *** brake juice) with the tube to the brake bleeder screw. > *** > *** Attach a fitting > *** > *** w/ another tube to the reservoir, and run the tube into a > *** > *** jar. Open the > *** > *** bleed screw and pump the oil can until the fluid > *** comes out at the > *** > *** reservoir end. Keep pumping until you are satisfied > *** the air is out > *** > *** (which is easy to check- just tighten the bleed screw and > *** > *** try the brakes > *** > *** w/out disconnecting the apparatus.) Easy to do, and > *** > *** requires only one > *** > *** person. Just check the overflow jar once in a while, and > *** > *** don't let the > *** > *** oil can run dry. > *** > *** > *** > *** Jeff Point > *** > *** RV-6 14 hours > *** > *** Milwaukee > *** > *** > *** > *** > *** > *** > *** > *** --------------------------------- > *** > *** > *** > *** > *** > *** ============= > *** > *** Matronics Forums. > *** > *** ============= > *** > *** ============= > *** > *** ============= > *** > *** > *** > *** > *** > *** > *** > *** > *** > *** > *** > *** > *** > *** > *** > > *** > > *** > *** > *** ============= > *** Matronics Forums. > *** ============= > *** ============= > *** ============= > *** > *** > *** > *** > *** > *** > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ken Brooks" <kenbrooks(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: Brake Reservoir
Date: Apr 14, 2004
While I am not yet flying <8-( , I solved the brake reservoir:firewall clearance problem by putting a blue 90 degree fitting on the master cylinder and then attached the individual reservoir directly to the fitting. The reservoirs are thus closer together for ease of bleeding, and clearance with the firewall was improved. I get significant brake pedal deflection prior to firewall contact in the last (most forward) hole on the adjustable rudder pedal slide tube. Even then, it is the top of the brake pedal and not the reservoir itself that makes contact. A narrow strip of protective rubber at this contact point should scratch-proof the firewall. With well-bled brakes, I suspect that braking begins with very little toe-pedal deflection. Hopefully, my theory will prove correct upon ground/flight testing. Photo available on request if you respond privately. Ken Brooks Roscoe, IL RV-8 Eng & Elec ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pat Perry" <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Bleeding brakes
Date: Apr 14, 2004
I've been fighting the same issue in my RV-4. The original bleed out worked great and I had no air at all in the system. During the fly-off time I had a brake line problem that required the left line to be refit. From that point on I could not get the small air bubble out of the high point. This did cause some additional softness in the pedal but only noticeable while the other was still air free. I have since made a routing change to the right side and subsequently got a small amount of air in the right side that won't bleed out. Both sides are even and the brakes are firm and responsive enough. I was planning on adding a brass coupling with a bleeder tap to the high point on both sides during the next annual to allow for future bleeding. Pat Perry Dallas, PA RV-4 N154PK Flies great! >From: Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: jpoint(at)mindspring.com, rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes >Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2004 05:27:24 -0700 (PDT) > > >Jeff, > >I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the same procedure you >outlined using a dedicated ACT pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the >reservoir fluid to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to >a week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear and collect at the >high point in the loops of the dual brake line system no matter what I do. >Both left and right brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes >during the bleeding process, l've used relatively high pressure, low >pressure, but always making sure the lines and overflow are absolutely >bubble free before I stop the process. Sure enough, after a period of time >passes, usually after several days, the bubbles reappear. The brakes >*seem* okay when I depress them, the bubbles merely migrate a bit when I >depress the petals, but I have no way to judge brake effectiveness until >real world taxi tests. I would sure like to see no bubbles at all in the >lines at any time, what am I > overlooking.......thoughts? > >Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing" > > >A trick which was shown to me by an old A&P: get a hardware store >pressure oil can and some 1/4 OD plastic tube. Attach the can (full of >brake juice) with the tube to the brake bleeder screw. Attach a fitting >w/ another tube to the reservoir, and run the tube into a jar. Open the >bleed screw and pump the oil can until the fluid comes out at the >reservoir end. Keep pumping until you are satisfied the air is out >(which is easy to check- just tighten the bleed screw and try the brakes >w/out disconnecting the apparatus.) Easy to do, and requires only one >person. Just check the overflow jar once in a while, and don't let the >oil can run dry. > >Jeff Point >RV-6 14 hours >Milwaukee > > >--------------------------------- > > Tax headache? MSN Money provides relief with tax tips, tools, IRS forms and more! http://moneycentral.msn.com/tax/workshop/welcome.asp ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 14, 2004
From: Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com>
Subject: Re: Cylinder Work...
rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com, vansairforce Anyone ever heard of these guys? ...have anything good or bad to say about them? http://www.dongeorgeaircraft.com/cylinder.htm -Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: Bill VonDane Subject: Cylinder Work... Any recommendations on where to send my cylinders? I need an exhaust port welded on one, new exhaust guides in 3, seats ground and a light hone on all 4... Oh, and did I mention I'm on a budget? ;) Thanks! -Bill VonDane RV-8A - Colorado www.vondane.com www.creativair.com www.epanelbuilder.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PGLong(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 14, 2004
Subject: STS Loran Manual Needed
OhioValleyRVators(at)yahoogroups.com, ExperimentalAvionics(at)yahoogroups.com I have an STS Loran, 120 MC that I don't have a manual for. Does anyone have one I could borrow long enough to make a copy? I'll pay for all postage. STS is out of business and of no help. Thanks in advance for your help. Pat Long PGLong(at)aol.com N120PL RV4 Ready to paint Bay City, Michigan ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 14, 2004
From: Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com>
Subject: Re: Cylinder Work...
rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com, vansairforce Anyone have any idea how much a cylinder weighs?? -Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: Bill VonDane Subject: Re: Cylinder Work... Anyone ever heard of these guys? ...have anything good or bad to say about them? http://www.dongeorgeaircraft.com/cylinder.htm -Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: Bill VonDane Subject: Cylinder Work... Any recommendations on where to send my cylinders? I need an exhaust port welded on one, new exhaust guides in 3, seats ground and a light hone on all 4... Oh, and did I mention I'm on a budget? ;) Thanks! -Bill VonDane RV-8A - Colorado www.vondane.com www.creativair.com www.epanelbuilder.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mickey & Paula" <mimartin(at)sweetwaterhsa.com>
Subject: Rude Pilot
Date: Apr 14, 2004
I'd like to relate a story about an RV6A pilot on his way from Oregon to the Sun & Fun Fly-in, who landed at our airport on Tuesday April 14, 2004. Seems he had problems with the alternator on his RV6A and made an unplanned stop here in Rock Springs WY to do repairs. A friend at the airport saw his predicament and called me since I am building an RV6. I went to the airport with my new still in the box alternator expecting to offer it to him as a courtesy to a fellow RV builder. Turns out it was only a connector that he needed. When I arrived at the airport and approached the gentleman, he immediately started talking about how the residents of Rock Springs couldn't be smart enough to finish high school. All attempts to speak with this gentleman were met with rude replies. After listening to a few of his curt replies to our attempt at conversation, I knew I wouldn't be offering him any of my parts and walked away. I now have a new respect for Van's Aircraft for the courtesy I always receive every time I speak to them on the phone either with a question or to place an order. How they keep their pleasant manner after dealing with people like this guy amazes me. Sincerely, Mickey Martin RV6 builder ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 14, 2004
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)excelgeo.com>
Subject: Re: Bleeding brakes
If the dual brake setup is plumbed as per Van's drawings the fluid path is; Fluid Reservoir - PAX master cylinders - Pilot master cylinders - brakes. If the bubbles reside between the line between the Pax and Pilot master cylinders then the pilots side is not effected by the bubbles as they are on the supply side of the cylinder. They do effect the Pax side since the bubbles are between the master and slave cylinders and thus create a spongy pedal. Gary Zilik GMC wrote: > > > > >>I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the same procedure >> >> >you > > >>outlined using a dedicated ACT pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the >>reservoir fluid to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to >> >> >a > > >>week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear and collect at the >> >> >high > > >>point in the loops of the dual brake line system no matter what I do. >> >> > > > > >>Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing" >> >> >> > >Relax Gents > >Dual brakes on my 6A. During first filling I had no bubbles, then when >drained for servicing and subsequent refill there was no way to eliminate >the bubbles. I believe that is due to the slippery residue inside the lines, >the brake fluid goes around the bubbles leaving them at the high spots. > >I tried regular oil can filling, pressure pot refilling from bottom and also >tried a vacuum pump at reservoir with suction filling from below, no way >could I eliminate seeing bubbles in brake line. Maybe I should paint the >lines black to avoid seeing bubbles! > >Anyway my brakes have operated satisfactorily with bubbles at the high spots >for 260+ hrs. > >George in Langley > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 14, 2004
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)excelgeo.com>
Subject: Re: Rude Pilot
Yeah, you really gotta watch them 6A drivers ;-) Gary Zilik RV-6A Mickey & Paula wrote: > >I'd like to relate a story about an RV6A pilot on his way from Oregon to the Sun & Fun Fly-in, who landed at our airport on Tuesday April 14, 2004. Seems he had problems with the alternator on his RV6A and made an unplanned stop here in Rock Springs WY to do repairs. > > A friend at the airport saw his predicament and called me since I am building an RV6. I went to the airport with my new still in the box alternator expecting to offer it to him as a courtesy to a fellow RV builder. Turns out it was only a connector that he needed. When I arrived at the airport and approached the gentleman, he immediately started talking about how the residents of Rock Springs couldn't be smart enough to finish high school. All attempts to speak with this gentleman were met with rude replies. After listening to a few of his curt replies to our attempt at conversation, I knew I wouldn't be offering him any of my parts and walked away. > > I now have a new respect for Van's Aircraft for the courtesy I always receive every time I speak to them on the phone either with a question or to place an order. How they keep their pleasant manner after dealing with people like this guy amazes me. > >Sincerely, > >Mickey Martin > >RV6 builder > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com>
Subject: Re: Rude Pilot
Date: Apr 14, 2004
Mickey, As a resident of the Portland, Oregon area, and V.P. of Chapter 105, let me apologize on this fella's behalf. Of course I have no idea who it was, but there are lots of -6As in our area. Fortunately this kind of behavior is quite rare, and I hope he wasn't one of ours. Yours, Randy Lervold RV-8, 368 hrs, sold RV-3B, empennage ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mickey & Paula" <mimartin(at)sweetwaterhsa.com> Subject: RV-List: Rude Pilot > > I'd like to relate a story about an RV6A pilot on his way from Oregon to the Sun & Fun Fly-in, who landed at our airport on Tuesday April 14, 2004. Seems he had problems with the alternator on his RV6A and made an unplanned stop here in Rock Springs WY to do repairs. > > A friend at the airport saw his predicament and called me since I am building an RV6. I went to the airport with my new still in the box alternator expecting to offer it to him as a courtesy to a fellow RV builder. Turns out it was only a connector that he needed. When I arrived at the airport and approached the gentleman, he immediately started talking about how the residents of Rock Springs couldn't be smart enough to finish high school. All attempts to speak with this gentleman were met with rude replies. After listening to a few of his curt replies to our attempt at conversation, I knew I wouldn't be offering him any of my parts and walked away. > > I now have a new respect for Van's Aircraft for the courtesy I always receive every time I speak to them on the phone either with a question or to place an order. How they keep their pleasant manner after dealing with people like this guy amazes me. > > Sincerely, > > Mickey Martin > > RV6 builder > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 14, 2004
From: Tim Coldenhoff <rv9a_000(at)deru.com>
Subject: Inaccurate trim servo indicator
My aileron trim indicator seems to be grossly inaccurate. When the servo is centered, the RP3 LED indicator shows the second LED from the right lit. Also, the rate of change for the LEDs is very non-linear with respect to the actual servo position. I swapped the elevator and aileron indicators and saw the same thing, so it must be the servo's internal position sensor that is a tad flaky. Anybody else seen this problem? -- Tim Coldenhoff www.deru.com/~rv9a 90338 - electrical/finishing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dr. Kevin P. Leathers" <DrLeathers(at)822heal.com>
Subject: Re: Rude Pilot
Date: Apr 14, 2004
Hi Randy, May I ask why you sold an 8 to build a 3? Doc ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Rude Pilot > > Mickey, > > As a resident of the Portland, Oregon area, and V.P. of Chapter 105, let me > apologize on this fella's behalf. Of course I have no idea who it was, but > there are lots of -6As in our area. Fortunately this kind of behavior is > quite rare, and I hope he wasn't one of ours. > > Yours, > Randy Lervold > RV-8, 368 hrs, sold > RV-3B, empennage > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Mickey & Paula" <mimartin(at)sweetwaterhsa.com> > To: > Subject: RV-List: Rude Pilot > > > > > > > I'd like to relate a story about an RV6A pilot on his way from Oregon to > the Sun & Fun Fly-in, who landed at our airport on Tuesday April 14, 2004. > Seems he had problems with the alternator on his RV6A and made an unplanned > stop here in Rock Springs WY to do repairs. > > > > A friend at the airport saw his predicament and called me since I am > building an RV6. I went to the airport with my new still in the box > alternator expecting to offer it to him as a courtesy to a fellow RV > builder. Turns out it was only a connector that he needed. When I arrived > at the airport and approached the gentleman, he immediately started talking > about how the residents of Rock Springs couldn't be smart enough to finish > high school. All attempts to speak with this gentleman were met with rude > replies. After listening to a few of his curt replies to our attempt at > conversation, I knew I wouldn't be offering him any of my parts and walked > away. > > > > I now have a new respect for Van's Aircraft for the courtesy I always > receive every time I speak to them on the phone either with a question or to > place an order. How they keep their pleasant manner after dealing with > people like this guy amazes me. > > > > Sincerely, > > > > Mickey Martin > > > > RV6 builder > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Subject: bleeding brakes
Date: Apr 14, 2004
bleeding brakes downhill is harder but it can be done. Done it hundreds of times both ways. If its a tall system then it isn't very easy though. I have gotten the bubble out many times but it would then reappear after acro. It would eventually get big enough to make the right seat MCs fail I finally replaced the MC upper orings on the left seat side and the problem went away. I don't know how it can leak air in but no fluid out???? Some things just aren't ex-plane-able. I have no idea why you would want to climb into the wheel well to sevice the fluid level though. That would suck. The remote reservior is a very nice feature compared to that. W ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 14, 2004
From: Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Bleeding brakes
If you insist on using them, better would be to get the ones that fit. I received this email answer from the originally referenced source: We can get them but they are not currently in stock, for HD they are either 1/4x28 for older models and 3/8x24 for newer. To complete your order we will need... ORDER INFORMATION: Bike Info and parts desired. Name & Phone Number Credit Card Number (Visa/MC) Shipping address and Billing address (where Card statements are sent) must be the same. This quote is good for two weeks. We make every attempt to ship same day and we're located in southern California. You may call toll-free 1-800-805-2118, e-mail, fax, mail, or use pay pal to order. Remember to provide all the info above including day-time phone. C.O.D. and Pay Pal customers must ask for complete quote including shipping charges. C.O.D. is additional $7 charge and must be cashier's check or money order (no personal checks). Pay Pal must be a "confirmed address", go to www.paypal.com and use the 'Send Money' tab and enter our account 'sales(at)cyclebrakes.com'. Thanks for your request, take care, Melissa Phone: (805)671-5010, Toll-free ordering: 1-800-805-2118 Fax: (805) 671-5002 sales(at)cyclebrakes.com www.cyclebrakes.com You may have to fib a little (I don't know what their attitude is regarding use on airplanes) about your "vehicle". Dick Tasker, RV9A #90573 Cy Galley wrote: > >O.K. If you are bound and determined to use an item that is NOT necessary. >Buy the smallest diameter. Get a NPT plug that fits the casting of the brake >calipher. Then drill, machine seat for the valve. The tap it for the metric >threads using the proper metric bottom tap. After you are all done, it is >still setup for a top down pressure fill. This may or may not easily work. > >KISS is better idea so that everyone that ever works on your plane finds the >simple standard system. > >Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh >Editor, EAA Safety Programs >cgalley(at)qcbc.org or sportpilot(at)eaa.org > >Always looking for articles for Sport Pilot > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rick Fogerson" <rickf(at)cableone.net>
"RV List"
Subject: HELP! Airflow Performance F.I. & Van's Cowl
Date: Apr 14, 2004
Hi RV-3'ers, I'm having trouble figuring out the best way to mount the FI so it is most compatible with Van's cowls and scoops (haven't ordered yet). Sorry for the lengthy description. First I tried API's 90 elbow attached to sump and the FI mounted to the elbow in a horizontal position. API's filtered air system (a Y pipe that lets you choose ram air or filtered air with a butterfly valve) then mounts to the front of FI. I would prefer this but the FI with Y pipe is very far forward and the mixture lever is so low it doesn't appear to me to be workable. The only other thing I can think to try is mounting the FI directly to the sump in a vertical position. However, this appears to lead to three choices for installing the throttle/mixture levers each with their own problems: 1) install both levers on the left side of the FI (opposite from throttle linkages) with throttle lever down and mix lever up. 2) same as 1) only mixture lever down but with the throttle lever outboard an additional 1/2 inch to avoid conflict with the lever cables. 3) the throttle lever on the linkage side (right) which still requires an additional offset outboard of about 1/2 inch to avoid conflict with the linkages. What has been successful for those installing API fuel injection on an RV-3? Thanks, Rick Fogerson RV-3 (last 90%) Boise, ID ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com>
Subject: Re: STS Loran Manual Needed
Date: Apr 14, 2004
Tropic Aero used to sell STS and they may still have the information you are looking for since they were still doing repairs on these... http://www.tropicaero.com/index.cfm ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 14, 2004
From: Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Wiring Conduits
List, I'm considering using 1/2" and/or 3/4" .016 or .020 wall aluminum tubing for wing and fuselage wire conduits in my RV-8. I was considering this over the plastic conduit that Van's sells for several reasons; 1. It's heat/flame resistant. 2. It offers some additional shielding. 3. It's still light. I'm curious what comments people have about this, and specifically if there's any good reasons why I should not use thin wall aluminum tube for wire conduits. Thanks, Skylor RV-8 QB Under Construction __________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 14, 2004
From: "Jim Pekin" <jpekin(at)hartconstruction.net>
Subject: Vertical stabilizer fit to aft bulkhead
I'm trying to fit the vert stab on my 7 QB The horiz legs of the longerons and the aft deck project 3/32" aft past the aft face of the f-712 bulkhead. Is the aft spar of the VS is supposed to fit flush w/ the 712 bulkhead and bolt to the up elev stop? Should I shim the back face of 712 bulkhead? Should I trim the longerons and aft deck? Thanks, Jim Pekin ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GLCole5475(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 14, 2004
Subject: Re: Wiring Conduits
I used 2 smaller (5/16) tubing. One for the landing and position lights and the other for the strobe wires. I agree with your reasoning about weight and strength of the aluminum instead of plastic. That may be too conservative (using two smaller ones), but I don't like the idea of having that high voltage for the strobes any closer to any other wire than is necessary. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net>
Subject: Re: Rude Pilot
Date: Apr 14, 2004
Hey Randy...when you get to the tanks on your 3B let me know... I would enjoy that one :) I had a 3 kit for a while but it was such a basket case I had to let it go. I ended up with the opposite end of the spectrum in RV world...RV10 Evan ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Rude Pilot > > Mickey, > > As a resident of the Portland, Oregon area, and V.P. of Chapter 105, let me > apologize on this fella's behalf. Of course I have no idea who it was, but > there are lots of -6As in our area. Fortunately this kind of behavior is > quite rare, and I hope he wasn't one of ours. > > Yours, > Randy Lervold > RV-8, 368 hrs, sold > RV-3B, empennage > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Mickey & Paula" <mimartin(at)sweetwaterhsa.com> > To: > Subject: RV-List: Rude Pilot > > > > > > > I'd like to relate a story about an RV6A pilot on his way from Oregon to > the Sun & Fun Fly-in, who landed at our airport on Tuesday April 14, 2004. > Seems he had problems with the alternator on his RV6A and made an unplanned > stop here in Rock Springs WY to do repairs. > > > > A friend at the airport saw his predicament and called me since I am > building an RV6. I went to the airport with my new still in the box > alternator expecting to offer it to him as a courtesy to a fellow RV > builder. Turns out it was only a connector that he needed. When I arrived > at the airport and approached the gentleman, he immediately started talking > about how the residents of Rock Springs couldn't be smart enough to finish > high school. All attempts to speak with this gentleman were met with rude > replies. After listening to a few of his curt replies to our attempt at > conversation, I knew I wouldn't be offering him any of my parts and walked > away. > > > > I now have a new respect for Van's Aircraft for the courtesy I always > receive every time I speak to them on the phone either with a question or to > place an order. How they keep their pleasant manner after dealing with > people like this guy amazes me. > > > > Sincerely, > > > > Mickey Martin > > > > RV6 builder > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 14, 2004
From: Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org>
Subject: Re: Inaccurate trim servo indicator
Tim, There is an adjustment on the indicator that is adjusted for full deflection - it's mentioned in the installation instructions. Dave Bristol EAA Technical Counselor Tim Coldenhoff wrote: > >My aileron trim indicator seems to be grossly inaccurate. > >When the servo is centered, the RP3 LED indicator shows the >second LED from the right lit. Also, the rate of change for >the LEDs is very non-linear with respect to the actual servo >position. > >I swapped the elevator and aileron indicators and saw the same >thing, so it must be the servo's internal position sensor that >is a tad flaky. > >Anybody else seen this problem? > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "steve dinieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: looking for rv6 rudder
Date: Apr 15, 2004
Hangar rash has claimed the rudder on my rv6a. now rather than build a new rudder (it'll take time from my rv-10 tail assembly) I'd love to buy an assembled rudder. I'll travel up to several hours from the buffalo NY area to get it. And I'll throw in lifetime scenic Niagara Falls guided tours..... Really I'm begging Steve DiNieri 221RV capsteve(at)adelphia.net 716.283.0123 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mark Taylor" <mtaylo17(at)msn.com>
Subject: Apollo ACU Manuals
Date: Apr 15, 2004
I bought a used ACU that came without any documentation. This is about the only one you cannot download from Garmin's web site! If anybody is going to SnF over the next days, and has an owner guide and an install manual for one, I'd like to borrow it if at all possible. I'll be there Friday and Saturday. I am available on Family Band Radio at SnF on channel 7-2, or by cell phone 248 area code, then 722, then 0764... Thanks in advance! Mark Taylor ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: Apollo ACU Manuals
Date: Apr 15, 2004
It's made by Mid-Continent... http://www.mcico.com You can download it there. )_( Dan RV-7 N714D http://www.rvproject.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Taylor" <mtaylo17(at)msn.com> Subject: RV-List: Apollo ACU Manuals > > I bought a used ACU that came without any documentation. This is about the > only one you cannot download from Garmin's web site! > > If anybody is going to SnF over the next days, and has an owner guide and an > install manual for one, I'd like to borrow it if at all possible. I'll be > there Friday and Saturday. > > I am available on Family Band Radio at SnF on channel 7-2, or by cell phone > 248 area code, then 722, then 0764... > > Thanks in advance! > > Mark Taylor > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ronnie Brown" <romott(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Cylinder Work...
Date: Apr 15, 2004
>Anyone ever heard of these guys? ...have anything good or bad to say about them? >http://www.dongeorgeaircraft.com/cylinder.htm >-Bill Don George is well known to the Velocity folks. Located in Orlando, he builds many of the engines that power Velocities. I have an IO360 which was very nicely built and documented, complete with magnaflux reports and yellow tags. I now have 140 hours on it with NO problems. Ronnie ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Rude Pilot
Date: Apr 15, 2004
Yes, It is true you have even rude people that enjoy flying these great little airplanes. But has it occurred to you that the individual that you encountered was some big shot with money that may have just purchased this RV6A and has no idea about the labor love the rest of us enjoy by building these airplane with our bare hands. Don't take it for granite that a lot of RV's have been built and sold over the years and you are going to run into more and more of these purchasers that may not share the same passion as some. Truly a sad fact. >From: "Mickey & Paula" <mimartin(at)sweetwaterhsa.com> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: RV-List: Rude Pilot >Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 10:40:31 -0600 > > > >I'd like to relate a story about an RV6A pilot on his way from Oregon to >the Sun & Fun Fly-in, who landed at our airport on Tuesday April 14, 2004. >Seems he had problems with the alternator on his RV6A and made an unplanned >stop here in Rock Springs WY to do repairs. > > A friend at the airport saw his predicament and called me since I am >building an RV6. I went to the airport with my new still in the box >alternator expecting to offer it to him as a courtesy to a fellow RV >builder. Turns out it was only a connector that he needed. When I arrived >at the airport and approached the gentleman, he immediately started talking >about how the residents of Rock Springs couldn't be smart enough to finish >high school. All attempts to speak with this gentleman were met with rude >replies. After listening to a few of his curt replies to our attempt at >conversation, I knew I wouldn't be offering him any of my parts and walked >away. > > I now have a new respect for Van's Aircraft for the courtesy I always >receive every time I speak to them on the phone either with a question or >to place an order. How they keep their pleasant manner after dealing with >people like this guy amazes me. > >Sincerely, > >Mickey Martin > >RV6 builder > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 15, 2004
From: mark phipps <skydive80020(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: looking for rv6 rudder
Steve, I have one here in Colorado if you are interested, 100 dollars plus shipping. Mark Phipps steve dinieri wrote: Hangar rash has claimed the rudder on my rv6a. now rather than build a new rudder (it'll take time from my rv-10 tail assembly) I'd love to buy an assembled rudder. I'll travel up to several hours from the buffalo NY area to get it. And I'll throw in lifetime scenic Niagara Falls guided tours..... Really I'm begging Steve DiNieri 221RV capsteve(at)adelphia.net 716.283.0123 --------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com>
Subject: Wiring Conduits
Date: Apr 15, 2004
Unnecessary extra work. Vince RV-8 Finish -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Skylor Piper Subject: RV-List: Wiring Conduits List, I'm considering using 1/2" and/or 3/4" .016 or .020 wall aluminum tubing for wing and fuselage wire conduits in my RV-8. I was considering this over the plastic conduit that Van's sells for several reasons; 1. It's heat/flame resistant. 2. It offers some additional shielding. 3. It's still light. I'm curious what comments people have about this, and specifically if there's any good reasons why I should not use thin wall aluminum tube for wire conduits. Thanks, Skylor RV-8 QB Under Construction __________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 15, 2004
From: Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Wiring Conduits
I'm not sure that I understand this comment! If I'm going to install conduit anyway, I don't see how the material makes any difference work wise, other than having to alodine the aluminum. --- Vince Himsl wrote: > > > Unnecessary extra work. > > Vince > RV-8 Finish > __________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 15, 2004
Subject: Need links to panel pictures for -7 and -8
From: alan(at)reichertech.com
All, I was playing with the ePanel web site today, trying to get ideas on a panel layout. I'm still on a fence about building either a -7 or a -8. What I've found is that putting a good IFR panel in a -8 seems to be quite difficult. Can "Those Who Have Done It" provide links to pictures of your -8 panel so I can get some more ideas? Thanks. - Alan ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bartrim, Todd" <sbartrim(at)mail.canfor.ca>
"'aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com'"
Subject: Dynon heated AOA pitot now available
Date: Apr 15, 2004
this week for the heated AOA pitot and plans to begin shipping next week. I've ordered mine. I also currently have the PSS AOA system installed so I can do some direct comparisons. S. Todd Bartrim Turbo 13B RX-9endurance C-FSTB http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm "Imagination is more important than knowledge" -Albert Einstein ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 15, 2004
Subject: Wiring Conduits
From: "Jamie Painter" <jdpainter(at)jpainter.org>
I am not an expert on this issue by any stretch of the imagination, but have you considered the stress loads that will be placed on stiff aluminum tubing while the wings are flexing while pulling G's? My first impression would be that it would be best to have the soft conduit to reduce friction and wear between the conduit and the ribs. Maybe this is an issue...maybe it isn't...I don't know. Just a thought from someone who has no clue... :-) (hey, at least I'm self-aware) Jamie RV-7A, waiting on wings (should've ordered with emp kit!) > List, > > I'm considering using 1/2" and/or 3/4" .016 or .020 > wall aluminum tubing for wing and fuselage wire > conduits in my RV-8. I was considering this over the > plastic conduit that Van's sells for several reasons; > 1. It's heat/flame resistant. 2. It offers some > additional shielding. 3. It's still light. > > I'm curious what comments people have about this, and > specifically if there's any good reasons why I should > not use thin wall aluminum tube for wire conduits. > > Thanks, ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Travis Hamblen" <TravisHamblen(at)cox.net>
Subject: Las Vegas RVers
Date: Apr 15, 2004
I have an RV6A at VGT and I don't know a single person around the airport. Was hoping to meet some other RV types, check out some projects, learn a little, and hopefully fly a little. Although I'm not the builder of my plane I will be starting some smaller projects soon and was hoping to find some type of RV support group or other RVers in Las Vegas. I also go out of town on business on a regular basis and was hoping to find some RVers or people who are interested in RVs to keep an eye on mine, maybe fly it once in a while when I'm out of town (I really don't like her to sit there unused). I will soon be starting a couple projects and it would be really cool to have other experienced people or like-minded people to call upon every once in a while. Drop me an e-mail if you are in the Las Vegas area and need a hand with your project, need a second opinion, or want to go for a ride in a 6A sometime. Travis Hamblen N457DH RV-6A 335 hrs at VGT TravisHamblen(at)cox.net -- Checked by AVG Anti-Virus (http://www.grisoft.com). ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Wiring Conduits
Date: Apr 15, 2004
No matter what you use for conduit it will only be supported where it passes through the ribs and its only function is to contain and protect the wires and to make it easier to add additional wires later on. I used thin wall 3/4 alum tube (10' = 1 lb.) others have used smaller alum; some pvc tube and some used black plastic sprinkler tubing. Make sure the location you pick for rigid tubing doesn't interfere with things like the bolts that pass through the spar to hold the gas tanks on. I think weight is the largest consideration. Albert Gardner RV-9A 872RV Yuma, AZ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jamie Painter" <jdpainter(at)jpainter.org> > I am not an expert on this issue by any stretch of the imagination, but > have you considered the stress loads that will be placed on stiff aluminum > tubing while the wings are flexing while pulling G's? My first impression > would be that it would be best to have the soft conduit to reduce friction > and wear between the conduit and the ribs. Maybe this is an issue...maybe > it isn't...I don't know. > Jamie > RV-7A, waiting on wings (should've ordered with emp kit!) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 15, 2004
From: Hal / Carol Kempthorne <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Need links to panel pictures for -7 and -8
Hey Alan, Build whichever suits you otherwise. By the time you are ready to think about the panel, the RV8 will be more than big enough. There is a revolution taking place in instruments and avionics. Soon, two six inch displays will be all you need. There are plenty of classical full fledged IFR RV8s flying too. Panel and engine are finishing touches. Build an airframe. Right now, you are wasting time, get your tail kit and start riveting! K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now. PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WPAerial(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 15, 2004
Subject: Re: Rude Pilot
I am from Oregon. I hated to hear this man was from Oregon too. I had trouble with my fuel cap last year in Rock Springs. Not a whole lot there. But the young volunteer fire fighter that was running the whole air port did every thing he could for me. We jerryriged it together and it got me all the way to Sun-Fun. I hope I thanked him enough. Remember we all have our good and bad days. You see them on the highways all the time. I am sure some of these people have just had a long bad day and on other days they could be just fine. My wife can't stand me some days. I don't know why? Jerry Wilken Albany Or RV6A 210 Hours N699WP Stop by any time. Need Help or a ride to eat, give a call 926-8316 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 15, 2004
From: Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Wiring Conduits
I'm planning on using even thinner wall tubing than you did. 0.020 wall 3/4" tubing weighs about 9oz per 10 feet. I will probably use 1/2" and 3/8". Thin wall tubing has enough flex to it, that it won't produce any significant stress on the ribs when the wings flex. In addition, I was planning to support the tubes with plastic grommets. I'm glad to see that I won't be the only one to use Al tubing for conduit. Skylor RV-8QB Under Construction --- Albert Gardner wrote: > > > No matter what you use for conduit it will only be > supported where it passes > through the ribs and its only function is to contain > and protect the wires > and to make it easier to add additional wires later > on. I used thin wall 3/4 > alum tube (10' = 1 lb.) others have used smaller > alum; some pvc tube and > some used black plastic sprinkler tubing. Make sure > the location you pick > for rigid tubing doesn't interfere with things like > the bolts that pass > through the spar to hold the gas tanks on. I think > weight is the largest > consideration. > Albert Gardner > RV-9A 872RV > Yuma, AZ > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Jamie Painter" <jdpainter(at)jpainter.org> > > I am not an expert on this issue by any stretch of > the imagination, but > > have you considered the stress loads that will be > placed on stiff aluminum > > tubing while the wings are flexing while pulling > G's? My first impression > > would be that it would be best to have the soft > conduit to reduce friction > > and wear between the conduit and the ribs. Maybe > this is an issue...maybe > > it isn't...I don't know. > > Jamie > > RV-7A, waiting on wings (should've ordered with > emp kit!) > > > > Contributions > any other > Forums. > > http://www.matronics.com/chat > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > > > > __________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 15, 2004
From: Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net>
Subject: Re: Need links to panel pictures for -7 and -8
alan(at)reichertech.com wrote: > > >All, > >I was playing with the ePanel web site today, trying to get ideas on a >panel layout. I'm still on a fence about building either a -7 or a -8. > >What I've found is that putting a good IFR panel in a -8 seems to be quite >difficult. Can "Those Who Have Done It" provide links to pictures of your >-8 panel so I can get some more ideas? > >Thanks. > >- Alan > > > Check out the panel layout on this page, looks like plenty of run for everything http://www.acubedllc.com/Rev2Information.html -- Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/ RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com>
Subject: Need links to panel pictures for -7 and -8
Date: Apr 15, 2004
I really think Hal is on the right track here. My RV-8A panel under construction has a Blue Mountain EFIS/one with 2-1/4" airspeed, altimeter, vertical velocity and turn and bank as backup, with room left for an audio panel/marker beacon, SL-30 nav/com, and a Garmin transponder. There was still room left for a second control panel for the EFIS/one right over the throttle and my Garmin 196 on the upper right of the panel, in addition to most of the switches, a few breakers, the ignition and starter switches, ELT warning lights, a row of 8 misc. warning lights, the AoA indicator and a few switches, jacks and indicators I forget at the moment. The BMA EFIS/one takes a lot of space, but it replaces a whole lot of stuff, including all the air data and attitude instruments plus a moving map plus all the engine gauges you could ever want and the 2-axis autopilot controls and HITS (Highway In The Sky) indicator. I spent a whole lot of time doing and re-doing the arrangement in CAD and building prototypes, but it hasn't changed for a month or so, so I'm about ready to have Todd cut the final version for me. And I have room for one of those traffic warning boxes but haven't decided for sure whether or which to do. But it doesn't have room that I could find to have dual conventional nav/coms, ADF, and a whole lot of other traditional IFR instrumentation. Terry RV-8A wiring Seattle Hey Alan, Build whichever suits you otherwise. By the time you are ready to think about the panel, the RV8 will be more than big enough. There is a revolution taking place in instruments and avionics. Soon, two six inch displays will be all you need. There are plenty of classical full fledged IFR RV8s flying too. Panel and engine are finishing touches. Build an airframe. Right now, you are wasting time, get your tail kit and start riveting! K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now. PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA) ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Landoll starter
Date: Apr 16, 2004
From: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu>
Guys, FWIW, Mark Landoll is selling an aftermarket type starter that he says is a bit under 10 pounds and $190. Similar to the B&C units. Call him for more details at 405-685-0239 or 405-392-3847. I have one of his alternators and like it. Vince ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 16, 2004
From: Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com>
Subject: S&F New 180hp Engines to use Mogas
vansairforce Sun&Fun> NEW Superior 180hp engines to use mogas > http://www.avweb.com/eletter/archives/avflash/223-full.html#187103 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RiteAngle3(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 16, 2004
Subject: Las Vegas RV'ers
I have an RV6A at VGT and I don't know a single person around the airport. Was hoping to meet some other RV types, check out some projects, learn a little, and hopefully fly a little. Although I'm not the builder of my plane I will be starting some smaller projects soon and was hoping to find some type of RV support group or other RVers in Las Vegas. I also go out of town on business on a regular basis and was hoping to find some RVers or people who are interested in RVs to keep an eye on mine, maybe fly it once in a while when I'm out of town (I really don't like her to sit there unused). ******* In the early '70's there was a very active EAA chapter in Las Vegas, built a Breezy, was a member when I lived there while flying for USAEC. We met at what was known as North Las Vegas Airport back then. Elbie ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 16, 2004
From: Bob <panamared3(at)brier.net>
Subject: Re: Conditional Inspection
I have searched and searched the archives and numerous web pages for a copy of a annual conditional inspection. Can someone please let me know where I can find a copy on the Web. Thanks Bob RV6 Nightfighter ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Conditional Inspection
Date: Apr 16, 2004
>>I have searched and searched the archives and numerous web pages for a >>copy >of a annual conditional inspection. Can someone please let me know where I >can find a copy on the Web. > >Thanks > >Bob >RV6 Nightfighter If you're an EAA member, you can get a basic version that can be tweaked to suit your particular aircraft at: http://members.eaa.org/home/homebuilders/operating/inspection.html It's really up to you to determine how to verify the airworthiness of your RV. FAR part 43 is where it all starts. There may be several checklists posted on various builder's websites as well. Link to them off Van's webpage or the world wide wing at vansaircraft.net. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD RV10 '51 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com>
Subject: Conditional Inspection
Date: Apr 16, 2004
Randy Levold has one at http://www.rv-8.com/Flying.htm#Aircraft%20documents%20(downloads) Terry I have searched and searched the archives and numerous web pages for a copy of a annual conditional inspection. Can someone please let me know where I can find a copy on the Web. Thanks Bob RV6 Nightfighter ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 16, 2004
From: Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com>
Subject: Re: Conditional Inspection
http://www.vondane.com/rv8a/downloads/index.htm -Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob" <panamared3(at)brier.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: Conditional Inspection I have searched and searched the archives and numerous web pages for a copy of a annual conditional inspection. Can someone please let me know where I can find a copy on the Web. Thanks Bob RV6 Nightfighter ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: speeds (BEFORE FAIRINGS)
Date: Apr 16, 2004
Data points just for kicks.... Just got down from speed run testing. First I landed at SNA and used the compass rose to calibrate my Dynon's remote compass. That thing is rock solid now. You can be hauling 3G through a 90-bank turn, and the thing indicates dead-on (best I can tell). No acceleration errors, no lag/lead, it's a thing of beauty. With a reliable compass indication, I went out to the practice area for speed runs. NOTE: all tests performed at full throttle, leaned to 100 ROP NOTE: all tests performed in smooth air, in level, stabilized flight NOTE: plane has NO LEG FAIRINGS or WHEEL PANTS installed NOTE: fresh air vents were closed NOTE: all speeds are in KNOTS ***** Test Set A: 7500' MSL, Alt=30.04", OAT=43F 1) 23.7" / 2500RPM, N=176, E=171, S=152, W=156 Average: 164 KTAS 2) 23.7" / 2600 RPM, N=180, E=172, S=153, W=158 Average: 166 KTAS 3) 23.6" / 2660 RPM, N=183, E=174, S=155, W=159 Average: 168 KTAS ***** Test Set B: 6500' MSL, Alt=30.04", OAT=46F 1) 24.6" / 2500 RPM, N=174, E=170, S=155, W=161 Average: 165 KTAS 2) 24.65" / 2600 RPM, N=177, E=169, S=158, W=164 Average: 167 KTAS 3) 24.5" / 2670 RPM, N=178, E=172, S=160, W=165 Average: 169 KTAS That's all the testing I did so far. The purpose of this is to establish a baseline before installing any gear/leg/intersection fairings. I'm going to "itemize" the speed gains with fairings, starting with just the leg fairings. I'm hopeful that I'll be able to hit 180 KTAS at some altitude & power configuration once everything is cleaned up. Wish me luck... )_( Dan RV-7 N714D http://www.rvproject.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 16, 2004
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: speeds (BEFORE FAIRINGS)
Dan dont worry, 180 knots will be easy for you. All the fairings will add 10 knots which will put you right there. Just to let you know the wheel pants add little, the big increase comes form the gear leg fairings. > >Data points just for kicks.... > >Just got down from speed run testing. First I landed at SNA and used the >compass rose to calibrate my Dynon's remote compass. That thing is rock >solid now. You can be hauling 3G through a 90-bank turn, and the thing >indicates dead-on (best I can tell). No acceleration errors, no lag/lead, >it's a thing of beauty. > >With a reliable compass indication, I went out to the practice area for >speed runs. > >NOTE: all tests performed at full throttle, leaned to 100 ROP >NOTE: all tests performed in smooth air, in level, stabilized flight >NOTE: plane has NO LEG FAIRINGS or WHEEL PANTS installed >NOTE: fresh air vents were closed >NOTE: all speeds are in KNOTS > >***** Test Set A: 7500' MSL, Alt=30.04", OAT=43F > >1) 23.7" / 2500RPM, N=176, E=171, S=152, W=156 >Average: 164 KTAS > >2) 23.7" / 2600 RPM, N=180, E=172, S=153, W=158 >Average: 166 KTAS > >3) 23.6" / 2660 RPM, N=183, E=174, S=155, W=159 >Average: 168 KTAS > >***** Test Set B: 6500' MSL, Alt=30.04", OAT=46F > >1) 24.6" / 2500 RPM, N=174, E=170, S=155, W=161 >Average: 165 KTAS > >2) 24.65" / 2600 RPM, N=177, E=169, S=158, W=164 >Average: 167 KTAS > >3) 24.5" / 2670 RPM, N=178, E=172, S=160, W=165 >Average: 169 KTAS > >That's all the testing I did so far. The purpose of this is to establish a >baseline before installing any gear/leg/intersection fairings. I'm going to >"itemize" the speed gains with fairings, starting with just the leg >fairings. > >I'm hopeful that I'll be able to hit 180 KTAS at some altitude & power >configuration once everything is cleaned up. Wish me luck... > >)_( Dan >RV-7 N714D >http://www.rvproject.com > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 16, 2004
From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: speeds (BEFORE FAIRINGS)
Scott Bilinski wrote: > >Dan dont worry, 180 knots will be easy for you. All the fairings will add >10 knots which will put you right there. Just to let you know the wheel >pants add little, the big increase comes form the gear leg fairings. > > > >> >>Data points just for kicks.... >> >>Just got down from speed run testing. First I landed at SNA and used the >>compass rose to calibrate my Dynon's remote compass. That thing is rock >>solid now. You can be hauling 3G through a 90-bank turn, and the thing >>indicates dead-on (best I can tell). No acceleration errors, no lag/lead, >>it's a thing of beauty. >> >>With a reliable compass indication, I went out to the practice area for >>speed runs. >> >>NOTE: all tests performed at full throttle, leaned to 100 ROP >>NOTE: all tests performed in smooth air, in level, stabilized flight >>NOTE: plane has NO LEG FAIRINGS or WHEEL PANTS installed >>NOTE: fresh air vents were closed >>NOTE: all speeds are in KNOTS >> >>***** Test Set A: 7500' MSL, Alt=30.04", OAT=43F >> >>1) 23.7" / 2500RPM, N=176, E=171, S=152, W=156 >>Average: 164 KTAS >> >>2) 23.7" / 2600 RPM, N=180, E=172, S=153, W=158 >>Average: 166 KTAS >> >>3) 23.6" / 2660 RPM, N=183, E=174, S=155, W=159 >>Average: 168 KTAS >> >>***** Test Set B: 6500' MSL, Alt=30.04", OAT=46F >> >>1) 24.6" / 2500 RPM, N=174, E=170, S=155, W=161 >>Average: 165 KTAS >> >>2) 24.65" / 2600 RPM, N=177, E=169, S=158, W=164 >>Average: 167 KTAS >> >>3) 24.5" / 2670 RPM, N=178, E=172, S=160, W=165 >>Average: 169 KTAS >> >>That's all the testing I did so far. The purpose of this is to establish a >>baseline before installing any gear/leg/intersection fairings. I'm going to >>"itemize" the speed gains with fairings, starting with just the leg >>fairings. >> >>I'm hopeful that I'll be able to hit 180 KTAS at some altitude & power >>configuration once everything is cleaned up. Wish me luck... >> >>)_( Dan >>RV-7 N714D >>http://www.rvproject.com >> >> >> >> > > >Scott Bilinski >Eng dept 305 >Phone (858) 657-2536 >Pager (858) 502-5190 > > > I would not say wheel pants add very little, they are good for at least 4 kts which is not very little IMO. Jerry ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 16, 2004
From: Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: speeds (BEFORE FAIRINGS)
I can verify this. I just installed my fairings for the first time yesterday. It was a little bumpy and not ideal conditions for testing, but I got a good 11-12 kt increase with all the fairings. This is 75%, WOT at 8000', 100 ROP, 2720 RPM. On a related note, my gear leg fairings, which I so carefully aligned, seem to be off by a good bit. I needed to hold significant right rudder to keep the ball centered, with the fairings attached. I mean significant, it felt like flying with the left engine out. I did carefully align them using the method in the plans. Now it is going to be trial and error to get them more accurately aligned. Guess that's why they call it flight testing. Jeff Point RV-6 18 hours Milwaukee WI Scott Bilinski wrote: >Dan dont worry, 180 knots will be easy for you. All the fairings will add >10 knots which will put you right there. Just to let you know the wheel >pants add little, the big increase comes form the gear leg fairings. > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Corrosion fix for steel?
Date: Apr 17, 2004
1.0 FAKE_HELO_HOTMAIL Host HELO did not match rDNS: hotmail.com All, Forgive me if somebody else has posted this idea. As we know, rust forms on unpainted steel quick as a wink, so what to do? Our nice powder coated parts are great, but when you clean out the bolt holes the resultant bare steel is vulnerable, and who wants to add thickness with paint? Try gun bluing. You can get a little plastic bottle of the stuff for a few bucks at Wal-Mart, and it works great. Make sure the steel is rust free, then dab the liquid on with a q-tip. It turns a nasty black color, but it won't rust thereafter. Jim Bower RV-6A Fuse St. Louis, MO ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 17, 2004
From: Louis Willig <larywil(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Shake rattle & roll...all gone.
A few weeks ago someone asked for a way to shut down the engine without that annoying shake rattle & roll. Only one lister responded with an actual solution. And the winner is......Donald Mei. I pasted his solution below: <> I have tried this for the last 15 shutdowns and it works every time. The only difference I have had to make is that I let the engine idle for about 15-30 seconds at this very lean, slightly rough setting. For me 900RPM works well. After 15-20 seconds, I pull the mixture and what's left of the throttle to cut off position. The engine stops smoothly. Something else too. It starts easier on the next start. I guess the plugs are cleaner. - Louis I Willig 1640 Oakwood Dr. Penn Valley, PA 19072 610 668-4964 RV-4, N180PF 190HP IO-360, C/S prop ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 17, 2004
From: Louis Willig <larywil(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Blown fuse-strange event.
Hi guys, I have two cigarette lighter type power sockets in my RV-4. Both are breaker protected at 5 amps. #1 socket powers my GPS, and #2 socket powers my ANR headset. A few weeks ago, the 2 amp fuse contained in the male power plug of my GPS blew. I changed it and a few hours later, it blew again. The breaker on my panel never blew. I switched the two devices, and the GPS has worked fine. But today the ANR power plug fuse blew. The problem is not in the devices used but seems to be in the power socket/wiring system. How can this be? Any ideas before I spend three hours tearing apart my honey? Thanks in advance. Louis - Louis I Willig 1640 Oakwood Dr. Penn Valley, PA 19072 610 668-4964 RV-4, N180PF 190HP IO-360, C/S prop ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor(at)msn.com>
Subject: Slick Mag Wires
Date: Apr 17, 2004
My Slick wiring harness leads are way too long. I figured out how to get the plug end assembly off (5 parts) to shorten the wires, but I'm having trouble getting the spring stud back in the shortened wire. Anyone know a good trick to easily get the spring stud back into the center of the wire?? Tommy 6A, Firewall Forward Ridgetop, TN ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 17, 2004
From: Geoff Evans <hellothaimassage(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-8 flap motor interference
Has anyone else had an interference problem with the flap actuator motor and the side panel cover in an RV-8? If so, can you offer any pictures or a description detailing what you did to fix it? My motor sticks out 3/16" beyond the armrest and side panel cover. The interference is at the top (retracted flap position), so I can't just move the bottom of the side panel cover inboard. I've heard that this is a common problem. I have a QB fuselage and the holes for the location of the plastic flap arm mounting blocks were pre-drilled, so there isn't anything I could have done wrong here (in terms of location of mounting). I talked to one builder who cut the end off the steel flap arm and re-welded it farther outboard (where there is plenty of room). I don't really have the resources to do that, so I was wondering if anyone had another solution that didn't end up looking too cheesy. Thanks. -Geoff RV-8 QB __________________________________ http://photos.yahoo.com/ph/print_splash ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Gun Bluing
Date: Apr 18, 2004
From: "Gould, Richard AE1 NAVTESTWINGPAC 561000E" <richard.j.gould(at)navy.mil>
From: "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> > Forgive me if somebody else has posted this idea. > the resultant bare steel is vulnerable, and who wants to add thickness with paint? > Try gun bluing. You can get a little plastic bottle of the stuff for a few > bucks at Wal-Mart, and it works great. > > Jim Bower What a great idea! Simple, cheap and effective! I never would have thought of it. Thanks for the tip! Rick Gould RV-4 Camarillo, CA FLY NAVY! __I__ --O--O--( )--O--O-- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 18, 2004
From: Richard Lundin <rlundin46(at)yahoo.com>
I think you need to check the voltage at the plug, while you have a load on it. My guess is you have a bad connection/soldier joint somewhere in the wiring. That causes a voltage drop, which causes excess amperage draw. Good luck, Rick Lundin RV-8 Tail done, wings on order --- Louis Willig wrote: > > > Hi guys, > > I have two cigarette lighter type power sockets in > my RV-4. Both are > breaker protected at 5 amps. #1 socket powers my > GPS, and #2 socket powers > my ANR headset. A few weeks ago, the 2 amp fuse > contained in the male power > plug of my GPS blew. I changed it and a few hours > later, it blew again. The > breaker on my panel never blew. > > I switched the two devices, and the GPS has worked > fine. But today the ANR > power plug fuse blew. > > The problem is not in the devices used but seems to > be in the power > socket/wiring system. How can this be? Any ideas > before I spend three > hours tearing apart my honey? > > Thanks in advance. Louis > > > - > Louis I Willig > 1640 Oakwood Dr. > Penn Valley, PA 19072 > 610 668-4964 > RV-4, N180PF > 190HP IO-360, C/S prop > > > > Contributions > any other > Forums. > > http://www.matronics.com/chat > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > > > > __________________________________ http://photos.yahoo.com/ph/print_splash ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DAVID DAVENPORT" <ddavenport5(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: VSI & Altimeter Flucuations
Date: Apr 18, 2004
While in level flight in my -6, if my plane yaws at all due to turbulence, I get a steady, rythmic flucuation in both the ASI and altimeter. I am assuming that the static system is getting some sort of airflow disturbance when one side or the other is exposed to a different airflow due to the yaw, but it is hard to say. I am using Van's rivet head static ports in the location marked on the static kit paperwork. If, when pushing the remaining rivet through the hole somehow has created two different size holes, would that make a difference? Has anyone run into this and come up with any decent solutions? I'd love to know, because my autopilot altitude hold is hooked into this system and it makes the pitch servo work hard trying to chase those altitude deviations. Thanks in advance for any help/ideas. David Davenport RV-6 N168DD 67 Hrs. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 18, 2004
From: "Tim Bryan" <Tim(at)bryantechnology.com>
I think you are right about a bad connection or such, however the heat from that may be more of the reason than over amperage. Same answer, same conclusion, just different idea of WHY Tim Bryan Redmond, OR. RV-6 N616TB Not yet flying but close I think you need to check the voltage at the plug, while you have a load on it. My guess is you have a bad connection/soldier joint somewhere in the wiring. That causes a voltage drop, which causes excess amperage draw. Good luck, Rick Lundin RV-8 Tail done, wings on order --- Louis Willig wrote: > > > Hi guys, > > I have two cigarette lighter type power sockets in > my RV-4. Both are > breaker protected at 5 amps. #1 socket powers my > GPS, and #2 socket powers > my ANR headset. A few weeks ago, the 2 amp fuse > contained in the male power > plug of my GPS blew. I changed it and a few hours > later, it blew again. The > breaker on my panel never blew. > > I switched the two devices, and the GPS has worked > fine. But today the ANR > power plug fuse blew. > > The problem is not in the devices used but seems to > be in the power > socket/wiring system. How can this be? Any ideas > before I spend three > hours tearing apart my honey? > > Thanks in advance. Louis > > > - > Louis I Willig > 1640 Oakwood Dr. > Penn Valley, PA 19072 > 610 668-4964 > RV-4, N180PF > 190HP IO-360, C/S prop > > > Contributions > any other > Forums. > > http://www.matronics.com/chat > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > __________________________________ http://photos.yahoo.com/ph/print_splash ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GLCole5475(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 18, 2004
Gentelmen, I am not sure why the fuses are blowing, but do disagree with your analysis. If you have a bad solder joint or connection the resistance of that connection will be higher. This will generate more heat in the connection and lower the voltage and therefore current being applied to the device being driven. But it will not cause the fuse to blow. Fuses are inherently current sensitive. Check the voltage being applied to the two devices. You may find that the voltage is high in the one blowing the fuses. If so, your bad connection will be in the one that is not blowing fuses. It's a thought. Good luck. Gary Working on my HRII fuselage. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 18, 2004
From: Hal / Carol Kempthorne <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Gun Bluing
Guns rust, blueing helps, but the steel does still rust. Poorly cared for guns show fingerprints at least. hal ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV8ter(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 18, 2004
Subject: Re: RV-8 flap motor interference
yes. just enlarge the hole in the fuse it passes through. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PASSPAT(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 18, 2004
Subject: Re: Sun & Fun Accident?
Also at the Sun 'N Fun Fly-In, a small plane flipped over on the runway. The two people inside the Glasair III had to be extricated, but neither was seriously hurt. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com>
Subject: 1st friendly reminder - Twin Cities RV Fly-In
Date: Apr 18, 2004
Fellow Listers: We are beginning the countdown for the Twin Cities RV Fly-In to be held in Minneapolis on May 22 and 23. Folks, we want this to be the premier RV event in the upper Midwest this spring. So we have a lofty goal: we want to see every RV in this area that has ever seen light under its tires to blacken the skies of the Twin Cities on May 22 and 23. If fact, lets just shoot for the moon and get every possible RV to Anoka County Airport that weekend. THIS MEANS YOU!!!! The TCRVFI will be a major part of Discover Aviation Days. This is a big deal with a fly-in breakfast, food, warbirds, fly-bys, displays, vendors, pig roast, hangar dance, etc, etc. We'll have an RV hospitality tent, awards for fly-in RVs, door prizes, wife rides, mini-seminars on Saturday (Van's Aircraft will be there represented by Bruce Reynolds) and more. Here's the Fly-In website: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~rvflyin/index.htm - check it often for updates Here's Discover Aviation Day's website: http://www.discoveraviationdays.org/ We'll be spreading the word and reminding everyone over the next 4 weeks. Let's show the Discover Aviation Days folks just what these RVs are all about. Any questions? Email me off list. Thanks Doug Weiler pres, MN Wing dougweil(at)pressenter.cojm ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: VSI & Altimeter Flucuations
Date: Apr 19, 2004
> While in level flight in my -6, if my plane yaws at all due > to turbulence, I get a steady, rythmic flucuation in both the > ASI and altimeter. I am assuming that the static system is > getting some sort of airflow disturbance when one side or the > other is exposed to a different airflow due to the yaw, but > it is hard to say. I am using Van's rivet head static ports > in the location marked on the static kit paperwork. If, when > pushing the remaining rivet through the hole somehow has > created two different size holes, would that make a > difference? Has anyone run into this and come up with any > decent solutions? I'd love to know, because my autopilot > altitude hold is hooked into this system and it makes the > pitch servo work hard trying to chase those altitude > deviations. Thanks in advance for any help/ideas. > > David Davenport > RV-6 N168DD 67 Hrs. You could try putting a restriction in the static line going to the altitude hold autopilot (you don't want the other static instruments affected, so make sure they are not down stream of this restriction). This could be a problem if your autopilot has a climb/descent RATE mode, you'll have to experiment. I suspect that the hole through the restriction will need to be quite small, and the volume between the restriction and the sensor should be high (a couple coils of tubing perhaps). Also, talk to the autopilot maker and see if there is a gain control for that purpose on the unit which can be adjusted. Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN RV6-A N66AP 458 hours http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 19, 2004
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
description ---- ---------------------- -------------------------------------------------- Thats great info. But dosent that also mean the idle mixture is to rich? > >A few weeks ago someone asked for a way to shut down the engine without >that annoying shake rattle & roll. Only one lister responded with an actual >solution. And the winner is......Donald Mei. I pasted his solution below: > ><until some roughness is detected. Leave it there for a few seconds, then >pull to idle cut off. The engine will shut down as if you had turned off >the key.>> > > >I have tried this for the last 15 shutdowns and it works every time. The >only difference I have had to make is that I let the engine idle for about >15-30 seconds at this very lean, slightly rough setting. For me 900RPM >works well. After 15-20 seconds, I pull the mixture and what's left of the >throttle to cut off position. The engine stops smoothly. Something else >too. It starts easier on the next start. I guess the plugs are cleaner. > > >- >Louis I Willig >1640 Oakwood Dr. >Penn Valley, PA 19072 >610 668-4964 >RV-4, N180PF >190HP IO-360, C/S prop > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 19, 2004
Subject: Re: Rude Pilot/Now Great Pilot!!
Sorry to hear of your loss, Dana. Condolences to family & friends. Hope it is some comfort to know he is in a better place. And yes, it is the people. Regards, Doug Preston RV8 N127EK ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 19, 2004
From: Geoff Evans <hellothaimassage(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-8 flap motor interference
>>yes. just enlarge the hole in the fuse it passes through.<< That's not the problem. It's not the actuator arm, but rather the actual electric motor itself. I can't screw the side panel cover on without some sort of a 1/4" spacer or without moving the motor outboard (which would require rewelding the tab where the motor connects to the steel flap weldment). I also had to notch the flange on the armrest, as the motor runs into it in the fully-retracted position. -Geoff __________________________________ http://photos.yahoo.com/ph/print_splash ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 19, 2004
Subject: Re: Slick Mag Wires
Tommy, The Lycoming Overhaul Manual (of all places) has pictures of the tools and complete instructions for working on the Slick plug wires. I just did this same thing myself. You drill a small hole down the center of the coiled wire and the spring piece screws into the hole. Dan Hopper RV-7A (almost done) In a message dated 4/17/04 7:13:29 PM US Eastern Standard Time, twsurveyor(at)msn.com writes: > > My Slick wiring harness leads are way too long. I figured out how to get the > plug end assembly off (5 parts) to shorten the wires, but I'm having trouble > getting the spring stud back in the shortened wire. Anyone know a good trick > to easily get the spring stud back into the center of the wire?? > > Tommy > 6A, Firewall Forward > Ridgetop, TN > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HCRV6(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 19, 2004
Subject: Control system final assembly question
When final assembling the aileron to control stick pushrods to the aileron bellcrank in my RV-6 I discovered that since the opening in the bellcrank is 1/2" and the pushrod bearing width is 7/16", there is no way (that I can see) to get the 1/16" thick 5702-75-060 small O.D. washers specified on RV-6 drawing 19a in the remaining 1/32" gap on each side of the bearing. Anyone out there remember what you did there. I called Van's this morning and they said to just use AN960-10L (thin) washers, but I figure the callout for the small O.D. washers must be on the drawing for some good reason. Harry Crosby Pleasanton, California RV-6, final assembly ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 19, 2004
From: Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com>
Subject: Re: Slick Mag Wires
I have been thinking of replacing my wires, can I use an automotive wire? -Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: <Hopperdhh(at)aol.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Slick Mag Wires Tommy, The Lycoming Overhaul Manual (of all places) has pictures of the tools and complete instructions for working on the Slick plug wires. I just did this same thing myself. You drill a small hole down the center of the coiled wire and the spring piece screws into the hole. Dan Hopper RV-7A (almost done) In a message dated 4/17/04 7:13:29 PM US Eastern Standard Time, twsurveyor(at)msn.com writes: > > My Slick wiring harness leads are way too long. I figured out how to get the > plug end assembly off (5 parts) to shorten the wires, but I'm having trouble > getting the spring stud back in the shortened wire. Anyone know a good trick > to easily get the spring stud back into the center of the wire?? > > Tommy > 6A, Firewall Forward > Ridgetop, TN > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 19, 2004
Subject: Re: Slick Mag Wires
In a message dated 4/19/04 11:57:06 AM US Eastern Standard Time, bill(at)vondane.com writes: > > I have been thinking of replacing my wires, can I use an automotive wire? > > -Bill > > Bill, Electrically, automotive wire is probably fine. But it isn't shielded for one thing. After stripping this wire and seeing the quality and toughness of the helical wound center conductor, several silicone insulation layers, and fiberglass braid for strength I was very impressed. Also, the terminations are very well designed. These Lycomings have a lot of vibration compared to auto engines. You can't bend or vibrate the wire on my plane enough to hurt it. Stay with the aircraft wire. IMHO. Dan Hopper (Worked in ignition for GM for 15 years.) RV-7A (almost done) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 19, 2004
From: "John D. Heath" <altoq(at)direcway.com>
Subject: Re: Control system final assembly question
----- Original Message ----- From: <HCRV6(at)aol.com> Subject: RV-List: Control system final assembly question > ......Van's this morning and they said to just > use AN960-10L (thin) washers............... > Pleasanton, California > RV-6, final assembly AN960-10L washer is 0.438" OD, 0.203" ID, and 0.032" Thick. Combonations of -10 's and -10L 's could be used to fill the space' staying equal on both sides of the bearing as posible. Purpose to minimize stress in the bell crankwhen you tighten the bolt and allow the control tube to turn around it's longitudinalaxis. John D ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Subject: Control system final assembly question
Date: Apr 19, 2004
Harry, The small OD washers allow the spherical bearings on the rod ends to rotate a little further without interference. The aileron pushrods are very sensitive to the position of the rod ends so that nothing binds during full stick movement. I found the control weldment to be the problem area, not the bellcrank. You may not need the small OD washers to get clearance but if you do then I'd spread the ears to get that extra 1/32". Regards, Greg Young - Houston (DWH) RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A > > > When final assembling the aileron to control stick pushrods > to the aileron > bellcrank in my RV-6 I discovered that since the opening in > the bellcrank is > 1/2" and the pushrod bearing width is 7/16", there is no way > (that I can see) to > get the 1/16" thick 5702-75-060 small O.D. washers specified > on RV-6 drawing > 19a in the remaining 1/32" gap on each side of the bearing. > Anyone out there > remember what you did there. I called Van's this morning and > they said to just > use AN960-10L (thin) washers, but I figure the callout for > the small O.D. > washers must be on the drawing for some good reason. > > Harry Crosby > Pleasanton, California > RV-6, final assembly ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 19, 2004
From: Louis Willig <larywil(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Shake rattle & roll...all gone.
At 09:21 AM 4/19/2004, you wrote: > >Thats great info. But dosent that also mean the idle mixture is to rich? > > > > >A few weeks ago someone asked for a way to shut down the engine without > >that annoying shake rattle & roll. Only one lister responded with an actual > >solution. And the winner is......Donald Mei. I pasted his solution below: > > > >< >until some roughness is detected. Leave it there for a few seconds, then > >pull to idle cut off. The engine will shut down as if you had turned off > >the key.>> I don't think so. When I slowly pull the mixture towards the idle cut off position, I get the normal 25-50 RPM rise. But a silly little millimeter prior to shut down, I stop pulling. I let the engine run ( its just a little rough at this point) for 15-20 seconds and then pull some more. I really thinks the engine is tuned properly throughout its RPM range. I don't know why the Lycosaures shake so much during shutdown, and I don't know why this procedure eliminates the shake. I just know that it works. Louis ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mark Antenbring <mantenbring(at)pangaeainc.com>
Subject: Elevator trim tab hinge
Date: Apr 19, 2004
I've drilled the hinge to the trim tab, but not to 606PP (elevator side) yet. When I clamp the hinge to 606PP and check the alignment of the trim tab, I'm thinking I screwed up somewhere. The trailing edge of the trim tab sticks out past the trailing edge of the elevator by 3/32" or maybe even 1/8". The shortest distance between the trim tab skin and the elevator skin that I can get is 1/4" because of the hinge contacting the radius of 606PP. Can I file the hinge down lengthwise 2/32"? Looking for other appropriate fixes. Mark RV7 - wings still in the crates - is there a flap hinge in there that I can use on the elevator? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor(at)msn.com>
Subject: Oil line connections
Date: Apr 19, 2004
I am about to order hose and fittings etc. for plumbing my oil cooler. Two questions come to mind: 1) Should I use steel AN fittings on the engine (AN-8) or will aluminum do? 2) what type of pipe thread sealer should be used? Thanks, Tommy 6A, FWF Ridgetop, TN ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Oil line connections
Date: Apr 19, 2004
Steel or aluminum will work. I used steel, but I had to pull OEM aluminum fittings loose to install the steel fittings... Those OEM fittings had lasted 2000+ hours... No pipe thread sealer is necessary on these fittings. Kyle ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor(at)msn.com> Subject: RV-List: Oil line connections > > I am about to order hose and fittings etc. for plumbing my oil cooler. Two questions come to mind: > > 1) Should I use steel AN fittings on the engine (AN-8) or will aluminum do? > 2) what type of pipe thread sealer should be used? > > Thanks, > > Tommy > 6A, FWF > Ridgetop, TN > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Elevator trim tab hinge
Date: Apr 19, 2004
I would think you could "file down" the hinge as long as you maintain the proper ED. Otherwise I wouldn't worry about it, my trim tab "sticks out" slightly past the elevator too. No one knows but me (and you)! Tommy Walker 6A, Finishing Ridgetop, TN ----- Original Message ----- From: Mark Antenbring To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com' Sent: Monday, April 19, 2004 5:27 PM Subject: RV-List: Elevator trim tab hinge I've drilled the hinge to the trim tab, but not to 606PP (elevator side) yet. When I clamp the hinge to 606PP and check the alignment of the trim tab, I'm thinking I screwed up somewhere. The trailing edge of the trim tab sticks out past the trailing edge of the elevator by 3/32" or maybe even 1/8". The shortest distance between the trim tab skin and the elevator skin that I can get is 1/4" because of the hinge contacting the radius of 606PP. Can I file the hinge down lengthwise 2/32"? Looking for other appropriate fixes. Mark RV7 - wings still in the crates - is there a flap hinge in there that I can use on the elevator? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net>
Subject: F-674 skin and back window (tip-up canopy)
Date: Apr 19, 2004
I've reviewed some msgs on trimming the glass and otherwise building the tip up canopy. Is there a website or document that gives good A-Z instructions that supplement the Vans manual on tip up canopy fabrication? David Carter Riveting on the F-675 aft top skin! Finish kit just inventoried ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Oil line connections
Date: Apr 19, 2004
> > No pipe thread sealer is necessary on these fittings. > Beware! More than one brand new oil cooler has been ruined when people have threaded aluminum fittings into them. These threaded joints will gall up, and you will be ordering a new cooler. Use EZ Turn thread lubricant. Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN RV6-A N66AP 458 hours http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 19, 2004
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: F-674 skin and back window (tip-up canopy)
David Carter wrote: > > I've reviewed some msgs on trimming the glass and otherwise building the tip > up canopy. Is there a website or document that gives good A-Z instructions > that supplement the Vans manual on tip up canopy fabrication? > > David Carter > Riveting on the F-675 aft top skin! > Finish kit just inventoried David, a resource that is probably totally unknown to current builders is the set of notes compiled by Will Cretsinger: http://home.flash.net/~gila/wing_docs/canopy_notes2.htm Back in the middle/late 90's, Will's notes were a valuable complement to those of us muddling through the primitive Vans manual. No doubt there is still a lot of good info in Will's notes that would be helpful for builders of the pop-together kits. Here is another blast from the past, Frank Justice's notes: http://www.edt.com/homewing/justice I fear that many new builders fail to consider the older notes and websites and in so doing, pass over some valuable info. Hope this helps, Sam Buchanan "The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com > > > > > > > > . > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Oil line connections
Date: Apr 20, 2004
Tommy: It is good practice to use steel in the engine. I have a 1961 O-320 that I removed from a Tri-Pacer. It had aluminum fittings and I replaced them with new aluminum fittings when I REBUILT the engine. The Governer for the Constant Speed Prop REQUIRES STEEL fittings at both ends. I also use conical copper seals on the flaired fittings that mate to steel but not on the aluminum ones. I used Baker Seal on all pipe thread fittings reguardless of weather they are aluminum or steel. There are aluminum fittings in my oil cooler. Gary A. Sobek EAA TC FAA A&P "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, 1,452 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com ----Original Message Follows---- From: "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor(at)msn.com> Subject: RV-List: Oil line connections Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 17:55:20 -0500 I am about to order hose and fittings etc. for plumbing my oil cooler. Two questions come to mind: 1) Should I use steel AN fittings on the engine (AN-8) or will aluminum do? 2) what type of pipe thread sealer should be used? Thanks, Tommy 6A, FWF Ridgetop, TN ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fiveonepw(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 19, 2004
Subject: Re: speeds (BEFORE FAIRINGS)
I would not say wheel pants add very little, they are good for at least 4 kts which is not very little IMO. FWIW, I speed taped my Team Rocket leg fairings on for the S&F run and saw about 8 or 9 mph improvement (still pantless)- still bangin' on the dam pants, tho, & will see what happens there..... From The PossumWorks in TN Mark (1st big trip & omigawdwhutaplane!!!!!!!!!) 8-) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fiveonepw(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 19, 2004
descr... I have tried this for the last 15 shutdowns and it works every time. Same here- Thanks, Don... (150 hp E3D) Mark at The PossumWorks ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Walker" <ron(at)walker.net>
Subject: Re: F-674 skin and back window (tip-up canopy)
Date: Apr 19, 2004
Tip of the day: After making *any* cuts to it, make sure sure sure sure to clean the edges of any and all sharp edges BEFORE MOVING IT. These edges *will* focus any stress encountered while moving it, and cracks (expensive ones) are *very* likely to occur. Ron ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> Subject: RV-List: F-674 skin and back window (tip-up canopy) > > I've reviewed some msgs on trimming the glass and otherwise building the tip > up canopy. Is there a website or document that gives good A-Z instructions > that supplement the Vans manual on tip up canopy fabrication? > > David Carter > Riveting on the F-675 aft top skin! > Finish kit just inventoried > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 19, 2004
Subject: Re: Oil line connections
In a message dated 4/19/2004 3:50:42 PM Pacific Daylight Time, twsurveyor(at)msn.com writes: I am about to order hose and fittings etc. for plumbing my oil cooler. Two questions come to mind: 1) Should I use steel AN fittings on the engine (AN-8) or will aluminum do? 2) what type of pipe thread sealer should be used? ======================================== If there is a hose hanging on a fitting, I always recommend using stainless steel on the engine proper and aluminum elsewhere. I have seen that Van's use aluminum all places, including engine. Fuelube. GV (RV-6A N1GV flying 685 hrs) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net>
Subject: Manual Elev Trim - 'Cessna Wheel' orientation of knob
Date: Apr 19, 2004
Sorry I took so long to expand my skills at web page updates, to add photos (a first for me). Here's the link to photos I promised about 2 weeks ago - how I changed the routing of manual elev trim cable so knob it is oriented and works like a Cessna Trim wheel. You can take a look at this link to my web page - it's the "Apr. 19, 2004" entry at top of page. http://www.datarecall.net/~dcarter/Builder's%20Log.html David ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com>
Subject: Gascolator bracket for 6/6A
Date: Apr 19, 2004
List: I am "fix'n" to mount my gascolator for my 6A and have run into a snag. I have received my firewall forward kit which is designed more for the 7/7A. The 6/6A additions kit was also ordered. For the gascolator bracket, in the 7/7A, it fits on the aft side of the firewall between the diagonal stiffener and the side stiffener on the pax side. In the 6/6A, there is an additional diagonal stiffener that prevents the gascolator bracket from sitting flush on the aft side of the firewall. What have other 6/6A builders done in this situation? My tentative plan is to cut the bracket so that it will sit between the firewall diagonal stiffeners and then add a 3/4 x 3/4 x .063 piece of angle to tie it to the additional diagonal stiffener at the bracket's cut end. This, along with riveting the modified bracket to the firewall should provide enough strength to support the gascolator. Just thought I would run this by fellow builders before I go and ruin a perfectly good part. Not that I have ever done that, mind you........ Regards, Jeff Orear RV6A N782P (res) wiring, panel stuff, firewall stuff Peshtigo, WI ________________________________________________________________________________
From: tacaruth(at)ralcorp.com
Date: Apr 20, 2004
04/20/2004 08:33:12 AM I would check for a loose connection. Since fuses are designed to melt at a certain temperature, any external heat source would have a negative effect. A loose connection would have a higher resistance and would generate extra heat. You might also want to use slo-blowing fuses to eliminate nuisance tripping. Good Luck, Tom Louis Willig <larywil@comcast. net> To Sent by: rv-list(at)matronics.com owner-rv-list-ser cc ver(at)matronics.com Subject RV-List: Blown fuse-strange event. PM description ---- ---------------------- ----------------------------------- Please respond to --------------- rv-list@matronics .com Hi guys, I have two cigarette lighter type power sockets in my RV-4. Both are breaker protected at 5 amps. #1 socket powers my GPS, and #2 socket powers my ANR headset. A few weeks ago, the 2 amp fuse contained in the male power plug of my GPS blew. I changed it and a few hours later, it blew again. The breaker on my panel never blew. I switched the two devices, and the GPS has worked fine. But today the ANR power plug fuse blew. The problem is not in the devices used but seems to be in the power socket/wiring system. How can this be? Any ideas before I spend three hours tearing apart my honey? Thanks in advance. Louis - Louis I Willig 1640 Oakwood Dr. Penn Valley, PA 19072 610 668-4964 RV-4, N180PF 190HP IO-360, C/S prop If you are not the intended addressee indicated in this message (or responsible for delivery of the message to such person), you may not copy message and kindly notify the sender by reply email. Please advise immediately if you or your employer do not consent to internet email for messages of this kind. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pcondon" <pcondon(at)mitre.org>
Subject: Dynon D-10 EFIS AOA Question
Date: Apr 20, 2004
I am interested in the AOA feature on the Dynon but have reservations on the indicator that presents the AOA data. I have stopped by the other AOA purveyors and listened to the sales pitches. I guess I can swallow the physics of the indicator and what it claims to measure. What I can't see is the real case of flying by the AOA in the Dynon display. Has anyone really flew by AOA reference NOT airspeed ?? Is the Dynon small yellow, green & red bars really accurate enough to yield real enough data for "edge of stall" flying ??? The reason I ask this is the other vendors have a rather large display with graduations that seem more functional for actual flying by (that) reference. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 20, 2004
Hold it guys! Some of the newer electronics uses switching regulators, even small cheap stuff, to reduce the power dissipation. With these devices, when the voltage drops the current increases to keep the power the same. So either of you could be right. My $0.02 worth. Dan RV-7A (almost done) In a message dated 4/18/04 11:45:41 AM US Eastern Standard Time, GLCole5475(at)aol.com writes: > > > Gentelmen, > > I am not sure why the fuses are blowing, but do disagree with your analysis. > > If you have a bad solder joint or connection the resistance of that > connection will be higher. This will generate more heat in the connection > and lower the > voltage and therefore current being applied to the device being driven. But > > it will not cause the fuse to blow. Fuses are inherently current sensitive. > > Check the voltage being applied to the two devices. You may find that the > voltage is high in the one blowing the fuses. If so, your bad connection > will > be in the one that is not blowing fuses. > > It's a thought. > > Good luck. > > Gary > > Working on my HRII fuselage. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com>
Date: Apr 20, 2004
I am stating the obvious here but just in case .... Is there any **remote** chance that the wiring of either the male plug or the female socket can short to the airframe in bumpy weather? Just a tap and the fuse will be a goner. James > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of > tacaruth(at)ralcorp.com > Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2004 9:29 AM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > description ---- ---------------------- > -------------------------------------------------- > > > I would check for a loose connection. Since fuses are designed to melt at > a certain temperature, any external heat source would have a negative > effect. A loose connection would have a higher resistance and would > generate extra heat. You might also want to use slo-blowing fuses to > eliminate nuisance tripping. > > Good Luck, > Tom > > > Louis Willig > > <larywil@comcast. > > net> > To > Sent by: rv-list(at)matronics.com > > owner-rv-list-ser > cc > ver(at)matronics.com > > > Subject > RV-List: Blown > fuse-strange event. > > PM description ---- > > ---------------------- > > > ----------------------------------- > Please respond to --------------- > > rv-list@matronics > > .com > > > Hi guys, > > I have two cigarette lighter type power sockets in my RV-4. Both are > breaker protected at 5 amps. #1 socket powers my GPS, and #2 socket powers > my ANR headset. A few weeks ago, the 2 amp fuse contained in the > male power > > plug of my GPS blew. I changed it and a few hours later, it blew > again. The > > breaker on my panel never blew. > > I switched the two devices, and the GPS has worked fine. But today the ANR > power plug fuse blew. > > The problem is not in the devices used but seems to be in the power > socket/wiring system. How can this be? Any ideas before I spend three > hours tearing apart my honey? > > Thanks in advance. Louis > > > - > Louis I Willig > 1640 Oakwood Dr. > Penn Valley, PA 19072 > 610 668-4964 > RV-4, N180PF > 190HP IO-360, C/S prop > > > If you are not the intended addressee indicated in this message (or > responsible for delivery of the message to such person), you may not copy > message and kindly notify the sender by reply email. Please advise > immediately if you or your employer do not consent to internet email for > messages of this kind. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 20, 2004
From: jamesbaldwin(at)attglobal.net
Subject: Re: F-674 skin and back window (tip-up canopy)
Would you please tell me where I can find all of Will's notes in general? Thank you. Sam Buchanan wrote: > > David Carter wrote: > > > > > I've reviewed some msgs on trimming the glass and otherwise building the tip > > up canopy. Is there a website or document that gives good A-Z instructions > > that supplement the Vans manual on tip up canopy fabrication? > > > > David Carter > > Riveting on the F-675 aft top skin! > > Finish kit just inventoried > > David, a resource that is probably totally unknown to current builders > is the set of notes compiled by Will Cretsinger: > > http://home.flash.net/~gila/wing_docs/canopy_notes2.htm > > Back in the middle/late 90's, Will's notes were a valuable complement to > those of us muddling through the primitive Vans manual. No doubt there > is still a lot of good info in Will's notes that would be helpful for > builders of the pop-together kits. > > Here is another blast from the past, Frank Justice's notes: > > http://www.edt.com/homewing/justice > > I fear that many new builders fail to consider the older notes and > websites and in so doing, pass over some valuable info. > > Hope this helps, > > Sam Buchanan > "The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > . > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Jones" <disposable1(at)gpsconnection.com>
Subject: test post.. please disregard. (EOM)
Date: Apr 20, 2004
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 20, 2004
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: F-674 skin and back window (tip-up canopy)
jamesbaldwin(at)attglobal.net wrote: > > Would you please tell me where I can find all of Will's notes in general? Thank > you. Go to this link and scroll to the bottom of the page: http://home.flash.net/~gila Sam Buchanan ======================= > > Sam Buchanan wrote: > > >> >>David Carter wrote: >> >> >>> >>>I've reviewed some msgs on trimming the glass and otherwise building the tip >>>up canopy. Is there a website or document that gives good A-Z instructions >>>that supplement the Vans manual on tip up canopy fabrication? >>> >>>David Carter >>>Riveting on the F-675 aft top skin! >>>Finish kit just inventoried >> >>David, a resource that is probably totally unknown to current builders >>is the set of notes compiled by Will Cretsinger: >> >>http://home.flash.net/~gila/wing_docs/canopy_notes2.htm >> >>Back in the middle/late 90's, Will's notes were a valuable complement to >>those of us muddling through the primitive Vans manual. No doubt there >>is still a lot of good info in Will's notes that would be helpful for >>builders of the pop-together kits. >> >>Here is another blast from the past, Frank Justice's notes: >> >>http://www.edt.com/homewing/justice >> >>I fear that many new builders fail to consider the older notes and >>websites and in so doing, pass over some valuable info. >> >>Hope this helps, >> >>Sam Buchanan >>"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: F-674 skin and back window (tip-up canopy)
Date: Apr 21, 2004
From: "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" <F.vanderHulst(at)ucol.ac.nz>
I'm surprised that David Carter didn't mention it or check it out, but my "Bunny's Guide to RV Building" site at http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/bunnys-guide/rv/bunny/ includes my notes (some from the RV list, some from my own experience) on building an RV-6. In particular, click on "Finish Kit" in the menu then (obviously?) click on "Canopy". From the menu, choosing "Odds & Ends" followed by "References" gets you a (perhaps somewhat dated?) list of RV construction pages, including Will Cretsinger and Frank Justice. Frank (self-appointed compiler of the Bunny's Guide) -----Original Messages----- > Would you please tell me where I can find all of Will's notes in general? Thank you. > > I've reviewed some msgs on trimming the glass and otherwise building > > the tip up canopy. Is there a website or document that gives good > > A-Z instructions that supplement the Vans manual on tip up canopy > > fabrication? Learn real skills for the real world - Apply online at http://www.ucol.ac.nz or call 0800 GO UCOL (0800 46 8265) or txt free 3388 for more information and make a good move to UCOL Universal College of Learning. Enrol with a public institute and be certain of your future ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com>
Subject: Re: Smart coupler
Date: Apr 20, 2004
FOR ARCHIVAL PURPOSES David, I pondered for some time how to connect the Garmin GPS-35 that I got with the Anywhere Map system so that it could "run" the Nav-Aid coupler and keep the plane on a GPS course that I had entered into the Anywhere Map. I do have it working and while it is a bit awkward, it does work very well and I have flown to OSH (1,006sm) and to the Mexican border (550sm) using it with not a single 'hitch.' Essentially what you need to do is to 'fish' out the lead from the Anywhere Map's iPAQ that has the NMEA data on it...that will the the digital "off-course" data that the Smart Coupler coverts to analog voltages to control the servo motor that actually drives the plane. If you take the plug end that goes INTO the iPAQ and look at it so that the little rounded "hump" that exists on one of the longer sides is "up" you will see (if you look closely) that there are 12 pins; They are numbered 1 though 12 from left to right. The data you need for the smart coupler will come from the iPAQ (or which ever PDA your are using) on pin #7. That wire in the cable in your hand now that you want is the RED wire from pin #7 .....it has what is called the RS-232 Transmit Data (from the SA1110) - I carefully opened the cable about two feet back from the end that connects to the iPAQ and cut that red wire. The side the leads back TOWARDS the GPS-35 can be taped and forgotten. The red wire end that comes from the iPAQ end of the cable should be soldered to a new wire so that you can connect it somehow into the Smart Coupler. You MIGHT be able to get a breakdown of the iPAQ connections from http://ecece.com/info/ipagcradlemod/ipaqeradlemod.html if it is still active Also the RV-List archives of Feb 21, 2002 at 0908CST has something that may help...I made a note of it, but don't recall what it was. The #4 and the #10 pins ( brown and green wires) of that plug's cable are ground and can be connected to the mic receptacle so that ground is carried through to the Smart Coupler and the aircraft's ground. The way I did it (and there are endless other ways of doing it) was to run that extended wire into a small cylinder which had its 'far end' blocked solidly so I could put a mic panel receptacle in it. I connected the extended red wire to that mic receptacle and taped things up solidly. When I want to have the Anywhere Map/.GPS-35 combination fly the airplane I simply plug a short cable that has a mic jack into that cylinder and the other end into a mic receptacle that I have on the instrument panel...from that receptacle I connect into the Nav Aid (mine has the internal Smart Coupler). Sounds complicated but it isn't in reality...it does work just fine. Hope this helps...contact me if more is needed. John ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 20, 2004
From: mark phipps <skydive80020(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Gascolator bracket for 6/6A
Jeff, I cut the bracket to fit inside the stiffeners on my "6A" firewall, but I did not add an additional piece of angle to the end of the bracket. Basically the bracket is just a stiffener riveted to the firewall anyway. By the time you bolt the gascolator to the nut plates through the bracket and the firewall its really quite a strong assembly. Mark Phipps, N242RP, electrical, panel, etc. Jeff Orear wrote: List: I am "fix'n" to mount my gascolator for my 6A and have run into a snag. I have received my firewall forward kit which is designed more for the 7/7A. The 6/6A additions kit was also ordered. For the gascolator bracket, in the 7/7A, it fits on the aft side of the firewall between the diagonal stiffener and the side stiffener on the pax side. In the 6/6A, there is an additional diagonal stiffener that prevents the gascolator bracket from sitting flush on the aft side of the firewall. What have other 6/6A builders done in this situation? My tentative plan is to cut the bracket so that it will sit between the firewall diagonal stiffeners and then add a 3/4 x 3/4 x .063 piece of angle to tie it to the additional diagonal stiffener at the bracket's cut end. This, along with riveting the modified bracket to the firewall should provide enough strength to support the gascolator. Just thought I would run this by fellow builders before I go and ruin a perfectly good part. Not that I have ever done that, mind you........ Regards, Jeff Orear RV6A N782P (res) wiring, panel stuff, firewall stuff Peshtigo, WI --------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gabe A Ferrer" <ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Shake Rattle & Roll
Date: Apr 20, 2004
I posted the original request for help on my Lycoming shake rattle and roll on shutdown. I want to publicly thank Don Mei. His engine shutdown procedure works great. Gabe A Ferrer RV6 N2GX 111 hours South Florida Email: ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net Cell: 561 758 8894 Night Phone: 561 622 0960 Fax: 561 622 0960 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Comeaux" <mcomeaux(at)bendnet.com>
Subject: Secure N #
Date: Apr 20, 2004
How does one go about to secure a N # online with the FAA? Is there a web site on how to do it all...? Regards Mike Comeaux Final stages & paint ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PSILeD(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 20, 2004
Subject: Re: Secure N #
go to Bill Von Danes site. He has a link to the FAA site. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: N223RV(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 20, 2004
Subject: SNF Judging Results??
Has anyone seen the results of the SNF judging? I saw tons of nice planes, but had not seen any postings of the judging results.... Just curious.... -Mike Kraus N223RV RV-4 Flying N213RV RV-10 Empennage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com>
Subject: Re: Secure N #
Date: Apr 20, 2004
http://vondane.com/rv8a/nnumber.htm -Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: <PSILeD(at)aol.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Secure N # go to Bill Von Danes site. He has a link to the FAA site. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Lyle Peterson" <lyleap(at)access4less.net>
Subject: Secure N #
Date: Apr 20, 2004
Try http://registry.faa.gov/aircraft.asp for information on registering an aircraft or reserving an N number. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of PSILeD(at)aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Secure N # go to Bill Von Danes site. He has a link to the FAA site. = = = = ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org>
Subject: SNF Judging Results??
Date: Apr 20, 2004
Yes, the Glasair III 2003 OSH Grand Champion took the 2004 SnF Grand Champion award. Bruce www.glasair.org -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of N223RV(at)aol.com Subject: RV-List: SNF Judging Results?? Has anyone seen the results of the SNF judging? I saw tons of nice planes, but had not seen any postings of the judging results.... Just curious.... -Mike Kraus N223RV RV-4 Flying N213RV RV-10 Empennage = = = = ________________________________________________________________________________
From: N223RV(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 21, 2004
Subject: Re: canopy cover
I don't know about Van's cover, but I purchased one from Bruce's Custom Covers for my RV-4 and it is very nice. It is lined on the inside and Sunbrella material on the outside and is of very good quality. I'm guessing it is not the lightest or cheapest one out there, but I am very happy with it. -Mike Kraus N223RV RV-4 Flying N213RV RV-10 Empennage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com>
Subject: SNF Judging Results??
Date: Apr 21, 2004
See ... http://www.sun-n-fun.org/content/interior.asp?section=flyin&body 04_awards James > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of N223RV(at)aol.com > Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2004 10:26 PM > To: vansairforce(at)yahoogroups.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: SNF Judging Results?? > > > Has anyone seen the results of the SNF judging? I saw tons of > nice planes, > but had not seen any postings of the judging results.... Just > curious.... > > -Mike Kraus > N223RV RV-4 Flying > N213RV RV-10 Empennage > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Fuselage Jig ?
Date: Apr 21, 2004
I'm considering purchasing a Fuselage jig used to build 3 RV-6s. The question I have is: Will this work for an RV-8A It is of made of Uni-strut and the name "Adjust-a-Jig" was mentioned. Thanks, ERic-- GodSpeed Aviation RV-8A Lose those love handles! MSN Fitness shows you two moves to slim your waist. http://fitness.msn.com/articles/feeds/article.aspx?dept=exercise&article=et_pv_030104_lovehandles ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 20, 2004
Subject: Ignition Timing
From: Bruce Green <mailindex(at)juno.com>
I have a 200hp, IO-360-A and the data plate says to time at 25BTDC but I believe there is a service buliten that says to time it at 20BTDC. Any ideas as to which way to do it? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 21, 2004
From: Finn Lassen <finn.lassen(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Smoke system - nozzle size?
I'm looking at installing a smoke system in my RV-3. I've just browsed the archives. The only question that remains is: Recommended nozzle size? I talked with a couple of guys at Sun'n'Fun and the recommendations were: Start small and drill bigger and bigger until you find the right size. But I have no idea what "small" means. Finn ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: Ignition Timing
Date: Apr 21, 2004
The one mag on my AeroSport Power IO-360-A1B6 is timed to 20 BTDC (came that way from Bart). If you look at the Lycoming operator's manual it shows a few exceptions to the 25 BTDC rule in there. I asked AeroSport about this a while back, and they also pointed me at the operator's manual...believe it's on page 2-3. )_( Dan RV-7 N714D http://www.rvproject.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bruce Green" <mailindex(at)juno.com> Subject: RV-List: Ignition Timing > > I have a 200hp, IO-360-A and the data plate says to time at 25BTDC but I > believe there is a service buliten that says to time it at 20BTDC. Any > ideas as to which way to do it? > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Shake Rattle and Roll - The Genesis
Date: Apr 21, 2004
Well, you guys all have me blushing right now. The story of how I came up with it is pretty interesting. The first seed was planted when I was a 15 hr student pilot in a C-152 waaaayyyyy back in 2000. My instructor demonstrated how even with the mixture set for idle cutoff the engine could start and kill you. We shut the plane off by pulling the mixture. About 30 seconds later we spun the engine and it fired for about second then died. He explained to me that idle cutoff works by not actually shutting off the fuel, but by blocking the breather in the carb. Thats why the reaction isnt instantaneous while you are leaning. It takes a while for a vacuum to be pulled inside the part of the carb affected. About the same time I met a Lycoming rep at an event in Hartford called Safetyfest. He gave me a book containing all of the Lycoming operating and end user bulletins. I read it from cover to cover. Somewhere in the book it recommends running at slightly elevated rpms with the mixture leaned to clean off the plugs prior to shut down. Although strangely, the article didnt mention anything about shutdown. When I got my license and started flying the RV I noticed that if I leaned very aggressively while on the ground my plugs and oil filter stayed very clean. I leaned just very slightly short of roughness. I used this when taxiing out before a flight as well as after a flight. It is not a safety issue because when you do your run up, if you forget to enrich the mixture, the engine stumbles at about 1100 rpm. So Im taxiing in in the RV rolling these experiences in my head. My RV shakes more than most on shut down (conical mount). I realized that part of the shake is from the engine continuing to run intermittently on less than 4 cylinders as a vacuum is gradually pulled on the carb when the mixture is placed at idle cut off. Well, why not let the vacuum build up prior to actual shutdown?? When I reached my hangar, I ran the engine up to 1000 rpm or so and leaned it to just a slight bit of stumble. Left it there for 5 seconds and pulled quickly to idle cut off. Wow, no stumble, no shake. Don ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Smoke system - nozzle size?
Date: Apr 21, 2004
From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net>
My 2 nozzles are 7/64ths each. I get good comments on my smoke. Here are some shots of it in action: http://www2.mstewart.net:8081/michael/rv/teamrv/waco03/index.htm Also the videos on doug's site from a day or 2 ago from SnF04 have good shots of the smoke. And that was crappy ole diesel in there. Hollor if I can help on the smoke. I have been around the block on this already. This system is my design based on lots of research. You can read about some of my system on my website here: http://www.mstewart.net/michael/rv/rvhome.htm Go to flying/smoke Enjoy Kahuna -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Finn Lassen Subject: [[SPAM]] RV-List: Smoke system - nozzle size? I'm looking at installing a smoke system in my RV-3. I've just browsed the archives. The only question that remains is: Recommended nozzle size? I talked with a couple of guys at Sun'n'Fun and the recommendations were: Start small and drill bigger and bigger until you find the right size. But I have no idea what "small" means. Finn = = = = ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RiteAngle3(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 21, 2004
Subject: Re:Photos wanted of RiteAngle AOA
Hi RV builders installing or flying the RiteAngle AOA system. Are you proud of your aircraft? I have had quite a few individual messages returned due to e-mail address changes and felt this was one way to reach the largest group of builders/flyers. I am in the process of updating the photos of the RiteAngle AOA system installed on aircraft on our website, Instructional CD and my photo book I'll have on display at AirVenture. I appreciate all photos, however those which show the display, Vane and / or a unique way of solving any problem related to RiteAngle AOA system would be appreciated along with a full aircraft photo. E-mailing these is fine, please give S/N of RiteAngle and approximate hours flown if you are completed building and "in the air." To those who have already replied, thanks! Please contact off list. Fly the Safe Angle with the RiteAngle Elbie EM Aviation, LLC www.riteangle.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 21, 2004
Subject: Elevator Trim Wire Routing?
Fellow listers, I need some advice on how to route the wiring from the fuselage to the elevator trim motor. The lead screw in the Ray Allen servo extends into the hole made for the manual trim, so that won't work. I am thinking of bypassing the horizontal stab and running it through the 4130 horn bracket directly to the back of the fuselage through some corrugated plastic armor and clamping it out of the way of any moving parts. The wiring I have for the feedback pot is 3 conductor shielded that is a little stiff, and I don't want it to have to bend too tight or over too short of a distance. Thanks in advance, Dan Hopper RV-7A (almost done) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Ignition Timing
Date: Apr 21, 2004
Bruce, You are refering to Service Bulletin 380A. This is for IO-360 C series engines only. For your engine it remains at 25 BTDC. Mike Robertson >From: Bruce Green <mailindex(at)juno.com> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Ignition Timing >Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 09:09:28 -0400 > > >I have a 200hp, IO-360-A and the data plate says to time at 25BTDC but I >believe there is a service buliten that says to time it at 20BTDC. Any >ideas as to which way to do it? > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tracy Crook" <lors01(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: SNF Judging & SUN 100 Race
Date: Apr 21, 2004
Speaking of results, How come all you 160 HP RVers stayed away from the Sun 100 race this year? There weren't enough of us to form a class this time so I had to race against the fast glass retractables, canards, etc. I came in third at 216.1 mph behind a pair of Lancairs. Only .7 mph behind the 2nd place and beat a Glasair that came in 4th. Flew at 220 IAS but the high winds knocked the average down. Have not flutter tested above 220 but would have been tempted to use a little of my reserve power if I have known the 2nd place Lancair was that close. Tracy (not victorious but God!, was that fun!) Mazda 13B powered RV-4 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RiteAngle3(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 21, 2004
Subject: Re: flying via AOA
Has anyone really flew by AOA reference NOT airspeed ?? In my admittedly biased opinion: Most definitely, ask any Navy pilot that question. When escaping windshear / microburst conditions in aircarriers the flight director is driven by the AOA, it is the only way to be insured you are getting the maximum performance out of the aircraft~~same goes with any aircraft if the AOA is setup and indicating correctly. A 747 & an ultralight still rely on lift derived from the airfoil, an AOA is a useful safety device on both, and all in-between. I tell my customers to use the AOA as a reference to know what airspeed to fly. It is not feasible to have one change their flying habits since their first flight overnight. As one gets used to the AOA it becomes more and more in the scan, so that over time you are automatically at the correct airspeed for the conditions as dictated by the AOA without actually being aware of it. This is from comments from our customers. Remember the AOA is changing every time you move the flaps. In my opinion an AOA should give warnings, both audio and visually when below the "minimum safe" approach speed, well ahead of the stalling angle so it takes only a small change in attitude to be back "safe" again. Should you be distracted the audio warning will do this. You will be amazed at the difference in approach speeds between your aircraft loaded and at a light weight, 1/2 & full flaps etc. Accidents are not planned. Safety has always been a hard sell, however, did you ever know anyone who prior to flying said "I'm going to have an accident today?" Safety is no accident! Contact off list if questions. Elbie www.riteangle.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry James" <larry(at)ncproto.com>
Subject: trim: springs vrs tabs
Date: Apr 21, 2004
I'm at another decision cross-roads and would like some input from those experienced RV drivers. I'm deciding which kind of trim system to incorporate for elevator; manual trim tab or servo trim tab, and aileron; manual springs or servo trim tab. My primary decision drivers are performance (in terms of light responsive controls) and simplicity (in terms of weight and overall system complexity). These two drivers seem to be at odds with one another, so a compromise is in order. Any good advice ?? Larry E. James (Bellevue, WA HR2) New Concepts Prototyping and Production phone 206 633 3111 fax 206 633 3114 larry(at)ncproto.com This electronic message is intended only for the individual(s) to whom it is addressed and may contain information that is privileged, confidential, or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you have received this electronic message in error, would you please notify me immediately by return email, or by telephone (collect). Thank you. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 21, 2004
Subject: Power Vs Speed Vs altitude
Airspeed and fuel flow data for a Lycoming 360 engine on a RV-6A is on my website. www.lessdrag.com Open the Lycoming 360 propeller page. Jim Ayers In a message dated 04/12/2004 11:59:56 AM Pacific Daylight Time, bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com writes: Has anyone done any testing at various power settings to see what air speeds are obtained. I am trying to find "the wall" where more power really does little in the way of more speed. Right now I cruise at 60% power, Alt 9500, and 160 knts TAS and 7.5 gal an hour. This seems to be kind of a sweet spot. Does any one else have any cruise data. Power settings Vs fuel flow Vs altitude etc. I am just looking for in the ball park figures. Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 21, 2004
From: Finn Lassen <finn.lassen(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Smoke system - nozzle size?
Thanks Mike! It's not clear how many gallons your tank holds, otherwise I'd ask how many minutes of smoke you get with 2 * 7/64" holes as 14 psi. So what is your flow rate? Finn Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta) wrote: > >My 2 nozzles are 7/64ths each. >I get good comments on my smoke. >Here are some shots of it in action: >http://www2.mstewart.net:8081/michael/rv/teamrv/waco03/index.htm > >Also the videos on doug's site from a day or 2 ago from SnF04 have good >shots of the smoke. And that was crappy ole diesel in there. > >Hollor if I can help on the smoke. I have been around the block on this >already. This system is my design based on lots of research. > >You can read about some of my system on my website here: >http://www.mstewart.net/michael/rv/rvhome.htm >Go to flying/smoke > >Enjoy >Kahuna > > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Finn Lassen >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: [[SPAM]] RV-List: Smoke system - nozzle size? > > >I'm looking at installing a smoke system in my RV-3. >I've just browsed the archives. >The only question that remains is: >Recommended nozzle size? > >I talked with a couple of guys at Sun'n'Fun and the recommendations >were: >Start small and drill bigger and bigger until you find the right size. >But I have no idea what "small" means. > >Finn > > >= >= >= >= > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RE: Dynon D-10 EFIS AOA Question
Date: Apr 21, 2004
From: "Swaney, Mark CAPT NAVAIRWARCENWPNDIV Bldg 36, Rm 2305" <mark.swaney(at)navy.mil>
Rm 2305" Pcondon, I'm not flying with a Dynon yet, but from my Navy experience with AOA I think it's most valuable with an indicator on the glareshield, such as is possible with the PSS units. If you had a Pitot-Static system failure that only impacted airspeed on your Dynon display, I imagine you'd still be able to fly cruise AOA's fairly easily, but approach AOA would be more difficult - due to being heads down. I think the biggest advantage of AOA is for a display failure and a heads up reference during approach. I'm planning using a Dynon as B/U for my EFIS/1, and also a PSS indicator on the glareshield. All 3 provide AOA. Mark Swaney F-1 Rocket (building slowly) From: "pcondon" <pcondon(at)mitre.org> Subject: RV-List: Dynon D-10 EFIS AOA Question I am interested in the AOA feature on the Dynon but have reservations on the indicator that presents the AOA data. I have stopped by the other AOA purveyors and listened to the sales pitches. I guess I can swallow the physics of the indicator and what it claims to measure. What I can't see is the real case of flying by the AOA in the Dynon display. Has anyone really flew by AOA reference NOT airspeed ?? Is the Dynon small yellow, green & red bars really accurate enough to yield real enough data for "edge of stall" flying ??? The reason I ask this is the other vendors have a rather large display with graduations that seem more functional for actual flying by (that) reference. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 21, 2004
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Automotive Spark Plugs
From: czechsix(at)juno.com
Guys, there's a thread going on the Aeroelectric list about automotive spark plugs used with electronic ignition systems. Apparently some folks have had trouble with them, others no problems. The thread below says that Jeff Rose at Electroair now recommends aircraft plugs...not sure why exactly? I'm interested in input from any RV'ers out there running auto plugs in a Lycosaur...what has been your experience? Specifically, I have a dual Lightspeed Plasma II system on my O-360, and plan to use the plugs included with the system by Klaus. Any input good or bad would be appreciated. Thanks, --Mark Navratil Cedar Rapids, Iow RV-8A N2D fwf stuff.... From: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net>


April 09, 2004 - April 21, 2004

RV-Archive.digest.vol-pe