RV-Archive.digest.vol-pe
April 09, 2004 - April 21, 2004
From: | "Mills, Trevor R" <MillsTR(at)az1.bp.com> |
Subject: | Governor from travellair |
>
> In my search for the right engine at the right price, I found one out of a
travellair (O-360 A1A)
> coming from a twin it has a governor on it, can anyone tell me if it is OK
for one of Vans hartzell's.
> as this would sweeten the deal for me.
>
> Thanks
> Trevor Mills 80605
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Hal / Carol Kempthorne <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Glareshield vinyl - good/bad ? |
Talk to Cee Bailey Plastics - they strongly talk against any vinyl and
acrylic saying it can crack a windshield in less than a year.
they include a specail warning with each acrylic window they ship.
hal
At 06:13 PM 4/9/2004, you wrote:
>
>I purchased Cleaveland Aircraft Tool gareshield material (vinyl), but has
>since heard that it may out-gas and be bad for the canopy. Is there any body
>out there with actual bad experience, or is this just theoretical ?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Thanks for all the input on the filtered air box. With the prop back on
the plane, I see I can easily get the cowl off/on with the FAB shortened
to 15.75 inches.
That's the good news. The bad news is the clearance between the FAB and
the cowl air scoop. The left side of the FAB is nearly touching the
cowl. One guy said this was not an unusual problem. The best solution
I can think of is to fabricate another mounting plate, moving everything
over a 1/2". This will put the filter and opening for the carb off
center with the base of the carb. I don't think that will create any
problems. Do you? Anyone else have to do this?
Thanks,
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jamesbaldwin(at)attglobal.net |
Subject: | RV4 wingtip lens |
Anyone -
Who sells a larger dimension wingtip lens kit for my HID
landing/nav/strobe light setup? I was going to cut a hole in the
leading edge for the old style landing light but now that the HID lights
are available I could fit the whole arrangement into a larger lens. The
old Van's kit I bought years ago isn't quite big enough nor is the new
fiberglass kit he has. Ideas? Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
I just got done fixing this. The FAB didn't quite touch the cowl, but
after 10 hours I found a fair amount of rubbing on the left side of the
FAB. I cut out the offending area and re-glassed a little indentation
in the FAB. Probably easier than making a new mounting plate.
Jeff Point
RV-6 flying, 12 hrs now
Milwaukee WI
Larry Bowen wrote:
>
>Thanks for all the input on the filtered air box. With the prop back on
>the plane, I see I can easily get the cowl off/on with the FAB shortened
>to 15.75 inches.
>
>That's the good news. The bad news is the clearance between the FAB and
>the cowl air scoop. The left side of the FAB is nearly touching the
>cowl. One guy said this was not an unusual problem. The best solution
>I can think of is to fabricate another mounting plate, moving everything
>over a 1/2". This will put the filter and opening for the carb off
>center with the base of the carb. I don't think that will create any
>problems. Do you? Anyone else have to do this?
>
>
>Thanks,
>
>-
>Larry Bowen
>Larry(at)BowenAero.com
>http://BowenAero.com
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Harvey Sigmon" <rv6hes(at)comcast.net> |
Larry: I had a similar problem on my last RV, what I did was elongate the
holes on the mounting plate so I could slip the fab box over to align with
the cowl. Hope this helps.
Harvey Sigmon RV-6A N602RV
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: RV-List: FAB
>
> Thanks for all the input on the filtered air box. With the prop back on
> the plane, I see I can easily get the cowl off/on with the FAB shortened
> to 15.75 inches.
>
> That's the good news. The bad news is the clearance between the FAB and
> the cowl air scoop. The left side of the FAB is nearly touching the
> cowl. One guy said this was not an unusual problem. The best solution
> I can think of is to fabricate another mounting plate, moving everything
> over a 1/2". This will put the filter and opening for the carb off
> center with the base of the carb. I don't think that will create any
> problems. Do you? Anyone else have to do this?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ronnie Brown" <romott(at)adelphia.net> |
Subject: | RE: RV-Liist Catto Props |
I have a Catto three blade on my Velocity and have been extremely pleased with
the quality and ruggedness. (Stuff tends to go through the rear mounted prop!)
IMHO, a better value than the Performance props and tougher too.
Craig Catto builds props for some of the Reno air racers. And I believe there is at least one Velocity/Lycoming IO540 with a Catto on it. See http://www.cattoprops.com/ .
I would think the RV10 would do just fine with a fixed pitch Catto on it. And
at 1/5 the cost and complexity of a constant speed prop, might be worth it!
Ronnie Brown
From: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Catto Props
You're putting a fixed pitch prop on an IO-540? In a -10?
Mike
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
13B in gestation mode
At 12:29 2004-04-08, you wrote:
>
>
>I flew an RV-9A with a Catto prop for a while. I will be putting one on my
>RV-10.
>
>Sincerely,
>
>Noel Simmons
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Huft" <rv8tor(at)lazy8.net> |
Subject: | Re: Glareshield vinyl - good/bad ? |
I also purchased this material, put it on, and have had no problems in 1 1/2
years it has been on.
John Huft
RV8 flying
----- Original Message -----
From: "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Glareshield vinyl - good/bad ?
>
> I purchased Cleaveland Aircraft Tool gareshield material (vinyl), but has
> since heard that it may out-gas and be bad for the canopy. Is there any
body
> out there with actual bad experience, or is this just theoretical ?
>
> Thanks,
> Amit.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Noel Strong" <nstrong01(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Questions about Fradulent Engine Builder |
As a late response to the question about the Fraudulent Engine Builder. Whenever
I want to learn something about a company/individual/products, I do a quick
web search. I will go to Google. Type the individual/company full name in quotes
in the search window i.e.: "First Middle Last". And many times items show
up.
Since there is no way to validate the posting without further research, including
contacting the person who posted the original information you might want to
view the information with a "grain of salt".
In this case, you may find a posting. Check it out. You will not have the same
results using the MSN search engine.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
Subject: | Re: Glareshield vinyl - good/bad ? |
Amit, if you're talking about the edging, I installed it four years ago and
with 368 hrs no problem or any sign of outgassing (scummy film on the
windscreen) whatsoever.
Randy Lervold
RV-8 sold
RV-3B building (www.romeolima.com/RV3factory)
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Huft" <rv8tor(at)lazy8.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Glareshield vinyl - good/bad ?
>
> I also purchased this material, put it on, and have had no problems in 1
1/2
> years it has been on.
>
> John Huft
> RV8 flying
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan(at)hotmail.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Glareshield vinyl - good/bad ?
>
>
> >
> > I purchased Cleaveland Aircraft Tool gareshield material (vinyl), but
has
> > since heard that it may out-gas and be bad for the canopy. Is there any
> body
> > out there with actual bad experience, or is this just theoretical ?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Amit.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Alternator belt size |
Amit,
NAPA (Gates) PREMIUM XL 25-7350.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (almost done)
In a message dated 4/9/04 8:12:42 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
amitdagan(at)hotmail.com writes:
>
>
> If there is anybody out there with an 0-360 (9 and 3/4" pully) and Vans
> 60Amp aternator,
> could you please tell me which size belt you found best fits this combo?
>
> Thanks,
> Amit.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
Larry, Just got done doing this on my RV6-A with 0360-A1A and it works
great! Another plus is you now have a straighter shot of air to the air
box......less bends more performance!!
Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: RV-List: FAB
>
>
> The best solution
> I can think of is to fabricate another mounting plate, moving everything
> over a 1/2". This will put the filter and opening for the carb off
> center with the base of the carb. I don't think that will create any
> problems. Do you? Anyone else have to do this?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "jgburns" <jgburns(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Rotary Engine Discussions at Sun 'n Fun |
Some rotary engine enthusiasts plan on meeting in the Sun 'n Fun engine forum tent
next Tuesday and Saturday (12:30 to 1:30). While you're likely to find someone
around the engine forum tent each day during the event, two times were set
aside to discuss rotary engine subsystem issues. Please share your knowledge,
questions, and concerns. For more information check out this webpage:
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/jgburns/Engine/Sun-n-fun-rotary.html and http://www.rotaryaviation.com/events.html
Cheers,
John Burns
Albuquerque, NM
RV-7A QB
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Rvsearey(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Legal IFR panel w/ Dynon? |
Scott, I just went through the process of getting new operating limitations
for my RV-4. (I needed exact wording to include IFR). If you go to the EAA web
site you will find a sample letter with the exact wording necessary to get
the new limitations. The FAA person I worked with did not have any experience
with experimentals and he said I actually did all the work for him. He did
want to look at the aircraft (although the 8130 handbook specifically states an
inspection is not necessary), but it was just a quick look see to assure him
that the aircraft was appropriately equipped. All in all it was pretty
painless.
Dan Decker
RV-4 Flying and just sold.
Received RV-7 tail kit one week later.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | [ Bob Olds ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Bob Olds
Subject: Two more of the Very Best RV's
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/Oldsfolks@aol.com.04.10.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Nick N" <rvator(at)nicknaf.com> |
Subject: | Glareshield vinyl - good/bad ? |
As long as it doesn't actually touch the canopy you should be fine. We
have a Glasair locally that has a padded vinyl glare shield, with the
first 1"-2" pushed up against the canopy. Now whether from heat (the
vinyl is black) or out-gassing I don't know, but he has micro cracks
everywhere the vinyl touches. Needless to say, he's not a happy
camper. FWIW, the airplanes aprox 3 years old and the cracks started
about 1.5 years ago.
Nick
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Amit Dagan
Subject: RV-List: Glareshield vinyl - good/bad ?
I purchased Cleaveland Aircraft Tool gareshield material (vinyl), but
has
since heard that it may out-gas and be bad for the canopy. Is there any
body
out there with actual bad experience, or is this just theoretical ?
Thanks,
Amit.
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com |
Hello all,
Because of my quest for an RV I have been lurking to learn what I could.
Now it would seem I have a question that some may be able to address.
I have found an RV-4 (finished in 1991) with a fuel tank that appears to be .
leaking at the rivits.
In the past I had a Cherokee with this same problem and the fix was to send
the tanks off for resealing. I would assume that the same could be done to the
RV tank
as well as building or buy a new tank or ?? I am thinking that the old tank
would be a mess to deal with.
Any input ?
Thanks
Sal Capra
Lakeland, FL
My Home Page
http://hometown.aol.com/cbrxxdrv/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel tank leaks |
Fixing a problem tank would be much less work than building a new one. There
are numerous suggestions in the RV list archives on how to fix a leaking
tank.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: <CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Fuel tank leaks
>
> Hello all,
>
> Because of my quest for an RV I have been lurking to learn what I could.
> Now it would seem I have a question that some may be able to address.
> I have found an RV-4 (finished in 1991) with a fuel tank that appears to
be .
> leaking at the rivits.
> In the past I had a Cherokee with this same problem and the fix was to
send
> the tanks off for resealing. I would assume that the same could be done to
the
> RV tank
> as well as building or buy a new tank or ?? I am thinking that the old
tank
> would be a mess to deal with.
>
> Any input ?
>
> Thanks
>
> Sal Capra
> Lakeland, FL
> My Home Page
> http://hometown.aol.com/cbrxxdrv/index.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Harvey Sigmon" <rv6hes(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel tank leaks |
Sal: The thing to consider with buying an older RV is the tanks, back in
the early 90's we used tank sealer and then used a sloshing solution. This
stuff can be a problem when you have to do repairs, this slosh has a white
plastic appearance and is hard like plastic. Van quit using it a few years
ago, myself I would replace the tanks, I think there are people that repair
the tanks by cutting access plates in each bay at the rear bulkhead. Big
project. I hope this helps.
Harvey Sigmon RV-6A N602RV
----- Original Message -----
From: <CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Fuel tank leaks
>
> Hello all,
>
> Because of my quest for an RV I have been lurking to learn what I could.
> Now it would seem I have a question that some may be able to address.
> I have found an RV-4 (finished in 1991) with a fuel tank that appears to
be .
> leaking at the rivits.
> In the past I had a Cherokee with this same problem and the fix was to
send
> the tanks off for resealing. I would assume that the same could be done to
the
> RV tank
> as well as building or buy a new tank or ?? I am thinking that the old
tank
> would be a mess to deal with.
>
> Any input ?
>
> Thanks
>
> Sal Capra
> Lakeland, FL
> My Home Page
> http://hometown.aol.com/cbrxxdrv/index.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Warren W Hurd <warren(at)ahyup.com> |
I will try and keep this simple, I am building an RV and I joined the
local EAA chapter... They elected me president. Well, I decided to have
a fly-in on Fast Day. The term fast day comes from not eating on a
particular day up here in New Hampshire, but I have a tendency to
interpret it differently. We do not have a lot to offer just a 6000 foot
runway and a clean rest room. We hope to have a barbecue, one of our
members has a barbecue on a trailer that he may bring. No rain date,
but we do have a ILS so if the weather is lousy we will see if any IFR
folk show up. As an added attraction if the weather is real nice some
rather proficient RC builders will give a demo. This would even include
the mowing of some grass with a helicopter using its rotor blades. (I
have yet to see it done). This is not an RV flyin, the New England RV
chapter will be holding their fly in on June 12th. So invite anybody
that feels like flying to come on by. As a disclaimer the EAA says I
should not encourage anybody to fly fast on Fast Day as it could be
considered racing. So be mellow and take it easy. As a side note Fast
day was started in 1681, to help the health of the governor back then.
Well he died. The holiday had continued for several hundred years. So
stop by and have a bite to eat on Fast Day.
More at http://www.ahyup.com/fast/
Warren Hurd
Still working on the wings
http://www.ahyup.com
90454
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JhnstnIII(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Stick - panel interference |
Listers--I am posting this in case it will help others avoid a problem. We
are building an RV-6. We built a 2 1/2 inch sub panel all the way across the
bottom of the instrument panel (to get more panel space). The sub panel
surface is in the same plane as the main panel surface (ie., not inset forward).
The stick grips we ordered had a forward angle to them. We discovered to our
dismay that with the sticks at their forward limit, the stick grips interfered
with things on the subpanel Iike the ignition key on the left side and the
mixture control knob on the right side. We are now ordering straight grips (Ray
Allens) that should solve the problem. Suggest if you are installing a
subpanel that you set it forward and be careful about stick intererfence, especially
with grips that angle forward. We had already shortened our sticks and
although we tweaked the stick positions there was not enough adjustment available
to allow us to keep our original stick grips. --LeRoy Johnston/Dave White RV-6
project, Columbus OH. Finishing panel wiring, engine/cowl is next.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Jurotich <mjurotich(at)hst.nasa.gov> |
I recently purchased the HID upgrade kit from Duckworks. There is a key
(slot) in the replacement mounting bracket. I assume this key is blue side
up (toward top of wing). Anybody know for sure? Don and Janet have not
answered me and the instructions are not crystal clear.
Matthew M. Jurotich
NASA/Goddard Space Flight Center
JWST ISIM Systems Engineer
m/c : 443
e-mail mailto: mjurotich(at)hst.nasa.gov
phone : 301-286-5919
fax : 301-286-7021
JWST URL: <http://ngst1.gsfc.nasa.gov>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | FATKORAT(at)aol.com |
Subject: | RV-8 U-803 Bolts |
While attempting to torque the bolts through the U-803 Outside Gear Mounting
Bracket I discovered 2 problems. First one of the 2 brackets has much more
than the prescribed .030 clearance over the wear plate. Is this a problem?
Second, the NAS 6206-27 Bolt has only .390 of thread and the prescribed AN
365-624A Locking nut is .450 thick. Thus, the bolt will never engage the nylon
locking portion of the bolt. Has anyone else had this problem?
Bob Gibbons
RV-8 ALMOST on Gear.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Stick - panel interference |
Listers--I am posting this in case it will help others avoid a problem. We
are building an RV-6. We built a 2 1/2 inch sub panel all the way across the
bottom of the instrument panel (to get more panel space). The sub panel
surface is in the same plane as the main panel surface (ie., not inset
forward).
The stick grips we ordered had a forward angle to them. We discovered to our
dismay that with the sticks at their forward limit, the stick grips
interfered
with things on the subpanel Iike the ignition key on the left side and the
mixture control knob on the right side. We are now ordering straight grips
(Ray
Allens) that should solve the problem.
Another option is to just shorten the sticks- I had the same condition with
my CH Products sticks and simply cut the tubes an inch shorter- actually they
are still a tad tall & they might get shorter yet! FWIW my sub panel IS inset
1.5" and is 1.5" tall- all cable controls reside there...
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark -6A N51PW
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
Subject: | Anyone heard of an RV-4 w/ an O-290 on it ? |
Okay experts (and the rest of you),
Has anyone ever heard of an RV-4 with an O-290 mounted on the nose? Will
the same conical mount for the O-320 work for the O-290 also? How does an RV-4
fly (take-off, cruise, aerobatics, landing wise) with less than 150 HP ? Thanks,
in advance, for all replies.
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Shemp" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Oil/gas leak out of Bendix Servo |
Im wondering if anyone has seen this before.
I have a Bendix fi servo and Ive noticed some liquid seeping out of the
bottom of the servo on the top of the fab mounting plate upon shutdown. The
air cleaner also seems awful dark looking thru the fiberglass, oil? I call
it a "liquid" because I cant determine what it is. It seems to be a mix of
oil and fuel but I gave up on my rotax a long time ago:) Its a blueish
thick oilly mess. It also drips out of the bottom of the fab. I dont know
what to make of it.
Thanks
Jeff Dowling
RV-6a/ 58 hours
Chicago/ Louisville
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Shemp" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel tank leaks |
Look in one of the most recent RV-ators. There is a guy who will build your
tanks for you. Sounds like it may be worth the cost if you dont want to
mess with the mess.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: <CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Fuel tank leaks
>
> Hello all,
>
> Because of my quest for an RV I have been lurking to learn what I could.
> Now it would seem I have a question that some may be able to address.
> I have found an RV-4 (finished in 1991) with a fuel tank that appears to
be .
> leaking at the rivits.
> In the past I had a Cherokee with this same problem and the fix was to
send
> the tanks off for resealing. I would assume that the same could be done to
the
> RV tank
> as well as building or buy a new tank or ?? I am thinking that the old
tank
> would be a mess to deal with.
>
> Any input ?
>
> Thanks
>
> Sal Capra
> Lakeland, FL
> My Home Page
> http://hometown.aol.com/cbrxxdrv/index.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Oil/gas leak out of Bendix Servo |
> Im wondering if anyone has seen this before.
>
> I have a Bendix fi servo and Ive noticed some liquid seeping
> out of the bottom of the servo on the top of the fab mounting
> plate upon shutdown. The air cleaner also seems awful dark
> looking thru the fiberglass, oil? I call it a "liquid"
> because I cant determine what it is. It seems to be a mix of
> oil and fuel but I gave up on my rotax a long time ago:) Its
> a blueish thick oilly mess. It also drips out of the bottom
> of the fab. I dont know what to make of it.
Was your engine pickled prior to being started? If so, I suspect what
you are finding is induction oil from the pickling that is being washed
down to the FAB with priming. It seems that mine did that for a couple
hundred hours. The pickling oil sort of turns waxy, and does not run or
weep by itself. Since no fuel is being sucked up the induction system,
the only time it gets washed is by prime running down.
Do you have small holes on the bottom of the FAB, both inside and
outside the filter? The hole inside will drain the goo you talk about,
and the hole outside will drain water. I found that the oily stuff
attacks the fiberglass of the FAB, and after about 400 hours I needed to
put some new layers of glass on the bottom inside of the FAB. You may
want to proseal on a fitting on the hole which is inside the filter, and
connect it to a little drain line to bring the slime to the back of the
cooling air exit. Otherwise, it seems to lubricate the nose gear
fairing. Don't use any fitting which will have a part inside the
filter!
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 454 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RVEIGHTA(at)aol.com |
Harry, I have a Catto three blade prop on my RV-8A (IO-360 180 hp). I've been
very happy with the prop and with Craig.
Walt Shipley
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Anyone heard of an RV-4 w/ an O-290 on it ? |
Don Simmons Redding California has the set up you describe. He is now
pulling the O-290 and installling an O-320.
I flew in formation with Don about 6 years ago to the Scappoose RV Fly-In
from Redding. The airplane is very very light and flew well but was not
very fast. I was running about 22 squared to go the same speed.
Don's RV-4 has twice had photos of it in flight published by Van. Not sure
if it was the calendar and RVATOR or the RVATOR both times.
Yes the same conical mount will work. Did everything an O-320 does at
particial power. Yes it will do aerobatics.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,451 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com>
Subject: RV-List: Anyone heard of an RV-4 w/ an O-290 on it ?
Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2004 20:49:37 -0700
Okay experts (and the rest of you),
Has anyone ever heard of an RV-4 with an O-290 mounted on the nose?
Will the same conical mount for the O-320 work for the O-290 also? How does
an RV-4 fly (take-off, cruise, aerobatics, landing wise) with less than 150
HP ? Thanks, in advance, for all replies.
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
Subject: | EVO F1 Rocket (long winded as usual) |
Hello from soggy Central Texas....
I was in Burnett Texas for the annual
BlueBonnet Airshow. First the Bad news, The airshow rained out, and Howard
Pardue fliped his Wildcat.
The good news is, Howard only got a scratch on the head, the airplane damage is
as little as could be expected for a roll over, and I GOT TO FLY THE EVO ROCKET!
Mark Fredrick was at there with the Falcon Flight and they performed the
opening, and pretty much closing ceremonies. It started raining while Falcon
Flight was flying during the national anthem and poured the rest of the afteroon.
In the Morning after begging, pleading, groveling, and general sucking up on my
part, Mark offered to let me fly the new wing. What a machine!!!!!
Marcel Dassault said, "For an airplane to fly well, it must look good." Well
the EVO Rocket is off to a good start, the new wing looks great on the airplane.
It has much better lines than the traditional Rocket which, I think, "looks"
like the wing is too short. I have always thought the RV-3 had the best lines
in the RV- series and thought the Rocket looked better than that when viewed on
the ground. All the RV's look like Cherokees that were designed for ease of
contruction when they fly over, and the standard Rocket wing looks too short.
Well when the EVO Rocket is observed flying over, it looks GREAT. Mr. Daussault
would approve.
Let me be clear, I have only flown Marks old Rocket one time, and I was
impressed, but I do not have enough recent experience to directly compare them.
The new wing has a Laminar Flow airfoil like the Mustang, and I expected it to
fly much more like it. Somewhat true....
The RV's when compared to a fighter, fly much more like the Corsair than the
Mustang, they have big fat, fairly lightly loaded wings. The Mustang, and the
EVO have a thinner wing with the fattest part of the wing back at about 50%
chord instead of about 30% on the RV/Rocket. For all your benefit, I wish Kevin
Horton had flown it, so he could tell you better what it is going on.
The launch is, well, like a Rocket... It really scoots. The climb rate is,
well, like a Rocket.... The pointy kind I mean. The Rocket needs a little more
right rudder than an RV, just think of it like an RV with a 10 knot crosswind.
I did not collect any data and we were flying under a fairly low ceiling. The
airplane does not fly like an RV. It flys very nicely, just very different.
Mark is still working with control ratios but if he sells it just like it is
now, it will be fine. This airplane has a longer stick than his other Rocket
and so the ailerons require more stick displacement and that yeilds less aileron
displacement, but a similar roll rate I would suppose.
The stalls are straight forward, again I did not collect data, the airplane
breaks cleanly, with any power on at all the nose up attitude is very high.
Both clean and dirty stalls are similar. In steep turns the airplane really
holds energy! I did a 3.5 G turn at 25/25 and it just hung in there. My
recollection is that the Std Rocket payed off some energy when loaded up.
I am sure that the new wing will like altitude better than the short wing
because of aspect ratio and it should really show dramatic cruise speed
improvement at high altitude.
I tried flying the airplane holding the stick about 3 inches down from the top
and I liked it better, the control forces are fine. The ailerons require more
displacement than the elevator which is, I think, requires a little less
movement with this wing than the standard. It is not goosey in pitch at all, and
the pressures are good, it just doesnt take much movement.
Also, the airplane "Points" better than the standard RV, that is, if you point
the nose at something on the ground, the RV with tend to accelerate and pitch
up, this airplane will stay on the point with little effort, what that says is
the airplane has less airspeed/trim stability, but it does not seem to be
noticable flying VFR. It might be more noticable IFR?
The airplane has lots of lift, it is easy in the pattern, at 80 kts, the pitch
attitude is good with the flaps down and it lands like an RV. The titanium gear
has more spring in it than steel and it will bounce easily. I did not 3 point
it, but based on the stalls I did and what Mark said, a full stall 3 point would
have the gear pretty far in the air when the T/W touched.
So, I had a Real Big "Rocket Grin" when I landed. I am certain the performance
will be better because of the aspect ratio. Standard Rockets would not want to
dogfight this airplane, because they would get waxxed. The airplane should LOVE
altitude and benefit greatly from cruising at higher altitudes. This airplane
is, with out a doubt, the best looking RV deriviative ever!!! And, as true to
Mr Dassault, the airplane flies well, not as good as an RV-4, but almost nothing
does. Having said that no one would be dissatisfied with it's handling, and
Mark is still tweaking the control ratios. The real question is, if I were
ordering, which would I order? No Question, The EVO wing.
Just about the time I think I might be satisfied with someone's cast off Rocket,
Mark comes up with something new..... I hate you Mark Fredrick!!! ;-)
Tailwinds
Doug "I wanna Rocket(with an EVO wing)" Rozendaal
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | 60 amp alternator auto part number? |
What's the commercial part number for the 60 amp alternator I could use at a
place like Napa? Has Van's version been modified from its car design to work
with lycoming?
thx,
lucky
In a message dated 4/11/2004 11:17:45 AM Eastern Standard Time,
rv8striker(at)hotmail.com writes:
RV-List message posted by: "Steve Struyk"
With my O-360-A1A and 60 Amp alternator I finally settled on a Gates 7355.
Actually, I bought several sizes around the 7355, (returned the unused ones
later) tried them all and found it put the belt tension adjuster in the
middle of it's range and still had good clearance from the prop governor
line. It's possible that I'll have a cowl clearance issue later, but I'm not
there yet. A small "blister" over the area near the alternator pulley is all
I expect to encounter if any.
Hope this helps.
Steve Struyk
RV-8, St. Charles, MO
Fiberglass (Yuk!) waiting for avionics
What's the commercial part number for the 60 amp alternator I could use at a
place like Napa?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Flamini" <flamini2(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Fw: Tailwind-List: Interesting |
----- Original Message -----
From: Dennis Flamini
Subject: Tailwind-List: Interesting
i came across this at Hicks, looks great if you are not married.
Dennis in Dallas
Back to Listings
Airpark Hicks Airfield - Fort Worth, Texas
Description This property is located 12 miles northwest of downtown Fort
Worth, 7 miles north of Meacham airport, 10 miles north east of Carswell Joint
reserve base, and 7 mile south of Alliance airport. It is also a very short drive
to Texas Motor Speedway. The airport is private, owned by the property owners,
has approximately 50 permanent residents, around 300 hangers, Airport Restaurant,
24 Hour fuel, Flight Schools, Aircraft parts Supplier, A&P's, Instructors,
and a 3740' paved runway. The lot size is 95'X75', the hanger is 55'WX75'LX25'H
or 4,125 Sq.FT. It has one 16'x44' electric main door, 8'x10' remote
controlled vehicle door, and standard personnel door. The electrical service is
200 amps, with generator and backup panel. There are six Quartz High Bay lights
of which only three are needed. The home is located in the back upper 1/3
of the building, approx.(1300 sq.ft.), has a (4) ton heat pump, is carpet and
tile through-out, with a 12'x15' & 16'x18' bed room. The master bedroom has a
10'x6' walk-in closet, 10'x10' master bath, with walk-in shower, & whirlpool tub.
The living area is approx 15'x25', with a 5'x8' bath off the north side. The
dinning area is open & adjacent to the kitchen and living area. The kitchen
has lots of storage, with utility room & pantry off the kitchen. Home has security
camera/intercom system, which includes access control of the personnel
door. The intercom also exists in the lower level. The lower level of the home
(Pilots lounge/Game room) is 20'x25', with bath, small kitchen area, overhead
TV, and could be used as another bedroom. All major appliances are included with
the home. Asking $175,000.00 509-528-4880
Contact Bryan Spicer - 509-528-4880 or :Jan Lary @ 817-656-1040
Email: bspicer(at)charter.net
Photos
(Please click on photo to zoom in and use your browser's Back button to return
to this page)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
Subject: | Insurance, and The Final Chapter |
Many of you are aware that I had an "incident" on 1/31 wherein I was hit by
a gust and groundlooped my RV-8 while in the process of selling it. I've
been meaning to post some sort of more in-depth follow-up because I know we
all like to hear the full story in cases such as this, but it somehow hasn't
made it to the top of my to-do list.
In addition to providing a full write-up I wanted to let you know about the
experience I had with the insurance company. Insurance is a frequent topic
on these lists including debate about one company over another. My insurance
was with the Vanguard program through NationAir and managed by frequent list
contributor JT Helms. The actual insurance is through Phoenix Aviation, so
in essence you're dealing with two companies, one who sells it, and one who
handles claims. To make a long story short, I've always found JT to be very
straightforward, attentive, and helpful, but of course until you have a
claim you'll never know if the "back end" of the program shares those
qualities. After having the unfortunate need to actually file a claim I can
tell you that dealing with Phoenix Aviation was an excellent experience. The
adjuster, Tracey Barrus, was prompt, communicative, and in the end very
fair. In retrospect I think one of the things that made it go smoothly is
that I was prepared. Two days after the accident I began putting together a
repair plan spreadsheet that included both parts and labor and was grouped
by major subassembly (wings, fuselage, landing gear). When Tracey did the
inspection I took him through the damage to the aircraft, then my estimate
for repairing it. In the end he thought it was entirely reasonable and
agreed to settle without further negotiation or hassle. I had a settlement
form to sign and a check a week later. Bottom line: I highly recommend the
Vanguard program and will certainly use them again when my next aircraft is
finished.
Regarding the incident itself, I have added a section called "The Final
Chapter" to the Flying page of my web site at...
http://www.rv-8.com/Flying.htm
What's next for me? Having been attracted to the RV-3 for several years now,
and especially ever since Whirl Wind introduced their light weight 150
series constant speed props which I've always thought would be *perfect* on
an RV-3, I've started construction of an RV-3B. All kits have been ordered,
including the QB wings, and I've started a web site for that project at...
http://www.romeolima.com/RV3factory/
Randy Lervold
RV-8 N558RL, 368 hrs, sold
RV-3B N223RL, empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ron Walker" <ron(at)walker.net> |
Subject: | Re: Austin Tx Info |
I'm also in Austin ... I live at Breakaway Airpark just to the north. There
are a few homes here for sale as well as acreage lots that are ready to
build. Lemme know if you want further info.
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: "Boss" <bossone(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Austin Tx Info
>
> Contact Chris Boultinghouse sonexbuilder(at)yahoo.com
> he lives in Austin. I know that Georgetown recently expanded the airport
> there (just North of Austin). I an not sure what was done with the main
> airport as it was moved to the ex Air Force Base.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Austin Tx Info
>
>
> >
> > I'm thinking of taking a job in Austin Texas. I would be taking my
project
> and finishing it there. I would like to know if there are any airparks in
> the Austin area? I've found a few on the web but any specific info (RV
> friendly, other builders in the area) would be great. I would be working
in
> the downtown Austin area so I'm not looking for a big commute but would be
> willing if the home/airpark were right.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Karie Daniel
> > Sammamish, WA
> > RV-7A QB In Progress
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Walt. Thanks for the reply. Have you had the opportunity to get any
performance data with your prop such ROC, cruise speed vs. RPM, etc? Also, have
you
noted what RPMs your engine is turning at full throttle. Lastly, what
diameter and pitch did Craig use for your prop. Sorry to pile on so many questions
but I'm trying to gather as much information as I can to reach a decision on
which fixed pitch prop to go with. Thanks.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, final assembly
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | david.keck(at)amd.com |
There is also Cross Country Estates airpark just east of Georgetown.
www.airparks.com/07ts
There are a few lots left and they're a bit less expensive than Breakaway.
Dave
-----Original Message-----
From: tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com [mailto:tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com]
Subject: RE: RV-List: Austin Tx Info
Karie,
Breakaway Park is the main one I konw of, but it is not cheap. I think Lakeway
has a "community" airport, but it is not close to downtown either.
Austin has a very large RV population. Most people in town keep their planes out
at Georgetown, as they have added a bunch of hangars. It's probably a 35 minute
drive from downtown.
You might also check the EAA 187 website (link on Vans). The roster lists all
of the members, and you can see what everyone is building.
Scott Haskins
Pflugerville (Austin), TX
7A Wings
--- On Fri 04/09, Karie Daniel < karie4(at)comcast.net > wrote:
From: Karie Daniel [mailto: karie4(at)comcast.net]
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2004 22:21:33 -0700
Subject: RV-List: Austin Tx Info
I'm thinking of taking a job in Austin Texas. I would be taking my project and
finishing it there. I would like to know if there are any airparks in the Austin
area? I've found a few on the web but any specific info (RV friendly, other
builders in the area) would be great. I would be working in the downtown Austin
area so I'm not looking for a big commute but would be willing if the home/airpark
were right.
Thanks,
Karie Daniel
Sammamish, WA
RV-7A QB In Progress
L NEW LIST CHAT!! http://www.matronics.com/chat
=================
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave Hyde" <nauga(at)brick.net> |
Subject: | Fuel pressure question |
Just got back from flying. What a beautiful day,
but bumpy as all get-out.
I've seen a lot of discussion here about low fuel
pressure at altitude, but wasn't able to find a
definitive answer in the archives. With the boost
pump off I always see 0 psi from an electrical
tranducer whenever I get above about 4K ft. The
engine runs fine. It looks like I'm not the only
one with this problem (if it is a problem).
So far I've been turning the boost pump on - that
brings it up to ~3psi, and it remains at 1-3psi after
turning the boost off. When I start maneuvering, fuel
pressure drops again. It's obvious the engine is
getting fuel, so is there a solution to the spurious
warning? What are others doing out there?
Details:
RV-4
Carbureted O320-D2C
Grand Rapids EIS-4000
VDO 0-30 psi transducer on the firewall
Facet low-pressure boost pump
Lycoming low-pressure mech fuel pump
This one goes in the 'annoyance' column so long
as the engine keeps running . I LOVE this airplane!
Dave Hyde
nauga(at)brick.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Fuel pressure question |
In a message dated 4/11/04 6:26:03 PM Eastern Daylight Time, nauga(at)brick.net
writes:
> I've seen a lot of discussion here about low fuel
> pressure at altitude, but wasn't able to find a
> definitive answer in the archives. With the boost
> pump off I always see 0 psi from an electrical
> tranducer whenever I get above about 4K ft. The
> engine runs fine. It looks like I'm not the only
> one with this problem (if it is a problem).
> So far I've been turning the boost pump on - that
> brings it up to ~3psi, and it remains at 1-3psi after
> turning the boost off. When I start maneuvering, fuel
> pressure drops again. It's obvious the engine is
> getting fuel, so is there a solution to the spurious
> warning? What are others doing out there?
>
A friend with a RV-9 had a simular problem and
was running a EIS. The fix was a static port on the sensor
was too small and would not allow the sensor to adjust
its self. Fuel flow and pressure were both goofy.
All has been fine since the fix.
Sal Capra
Lakeland, FL
My Home Page
http://hometown.aol.com/cbrxxdrv/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel pressure question |
>
>In a message dated 4/11/04 6:26:03 PM Eastern Daylight Time, nauga(at)brick.net
>writes:
>
>
>> I've seen a lot of discussion here about low fuel
>> pressure at altitude, but wasn't able to find a
>> definitive answer in the archives. With the boost
>> pump off I always see 0 psi from an electrical
>> tranducer whenever I get above about 4K ft. The
>> engine runs fine. It looks like I'm not the only
>> one with this problem (if it is a problem).
>> So far I've been turning the boost pump on - that
>> brings it up to ~3psi, and it remains at 1-3psi after
>> turning the boost off. When I start maneuvering, fuel
>> pressure drops again. It's obvious the engine is
>> getting fuel, so is there a solution to the spurious
>> warning? What are others doing out there?
>>
>
>A friend with a RV-9 had a simular problem and
>was running a EIS. The fix was a static port on the sensor
>was too small and would not allow the sensor to adjust
>its self. Fuel flow and pressure were both goofy.
>All has been fine since the fix.
>
>
>Sal Capra
>Lakeland, FL
> My Home Page
>http://hometown.aol.com/cbrxxdrv/index.html
That makes a lot of sense, as the fuel pressure sensor recommended by
Grand Rapids seems to be designed for automotive applications. Thus
the designer probably envisioned that the static pressure would
change very slowly.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Jurotich <mjurotich(at)hst.nasa.gov> |
My apologies to Don and Janet. They were out of town. For any who are
interested this is Don's answer.
Matt,
sorry for the slow response, just returned from 2 weeks in Asia yesterday.
The notch being on the top or bottom doesn't matter.
Since there isn't a filament in the HID the orientation is not as critical.
Enjoy flying your RV!
dw
Matthew M. Jurotich
NASA/Goddard Space Flight Center
JWST ISIM Systems Engineer
m/c : 443
e-mail mailto: mjurotich(at)hst.nasa.gov
phone : 301-286-5919
fax : 301-286-7021
JWST URL: <http://ngst1.gsfc.nasa.gov>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel pressure question |
So what was the fix? I have had low fuel pressure readings, tried a new
sensor to no avail. Also I have suspiciously high flow readings with
the EIS.
Jeff Point
RV-6 14 hours
Milwaukee WI
>
>A friend with a RV-9 had a simular problem and
>was running a EIS. The fix was a static port on the sensor
>was too small and would not allow the sensor to adjust
>its self. Fuel flow and pressure were both goofy.
>All has been fine since the fix.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Fuel pressure question |
In a message dated 4/11/04 9:44:54 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
jpoint(at)mindspring.com writes:
> So what was the fix? I have had low fuel pressure readings, tried a new
> sensor to no avail. Also I have suspiciously high flow readings with
> the EIS.
>
So did he. He inlarged the hole for the static vent on the sender/sensor.
Sal Capra
Lakeland, FL
My Home Page
http://hometown.aol.com/cbrxxdrv/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel pressure question |
I don't recall seeing such a hole. How much did he enlarge it? And how
did this affect the flow sensor?
Jeff
>So did he. He inlarged the hole for the static vent on the sender/sensor.
>
>
>Sal Capra
>Lakeland, FL
> My Home Page
>http://hometown.aol.com/cbrxxdrv/index.html
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Fuel pressure question |
In a message dated 4/12/04 4:24:44 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
jpoint(at)mindspring.com writes:
> I don't recall seeing such a hole. How much did he enlarge it? And how
> did this affect the flow sensor?
>
I will get all the tech info from him today and pass it along.
It reallly was not rocket science. You would imagine the
hole is none exsistant to not allow the pressure to equalize.
If what is needed is not apparent I will get the needed info
and pass it along.
Sal Capra
Lakeland, FL
My Home Page
http://hometown.aol.com/cbrxxdrv/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Soliciting advice on replacing throttle quadrant with Van's "Deluxe" |
model
Hi All,
This weekend, I plan to swap-out the standard 3-lever throttle quadrant in
my -4 for the "deluxe" version available through Van's. I would like to
know if anyone has done this and can share any fit/function problems that
may have been experienced. I don't want my plane down just for upgrading
the quadrant! I am aware of the "Service Letter" regarding the clevis
interference.
Thanks in advance for the help.
Dean Pichon
RV-4, 185 hrs
Check out MSN PC Safety & Security to help ensure your PC is protected and
safe. http://specials.msn.com/msn/security.asp
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel tank leaks |
Hey...Thats me! I have built a lot of them....working on a set of RV10 tanks
today. If you have just one or two rivets leaking I can probably help you
fix them. More that that and you should consider a new set of tanks. Give me
a call when you get a chance.
Evan
(530)351-1776 Cell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Shemp" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel tank leaks
>
> Look in one of the most recent RV-ators. There is a guy who will build
your
> tanks for you. Sounds like it may be worth the cost if you dont want to
> mess with the mess.
>
> Jeff
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Fuel tank leaks
>
>
> >
> > Hello all,
> >
> > Because of my quest for an RV I have been lurking to learn what I could.
> > Now it would seem I have a question that some may be able to address.
> > I have found an RV-4 (finished in 1991) with a fuel tank that appears to
> be .
> > leaking at the rivits.
> > In the past I had a Cherokee with this same problem and the fix was to
> send
> > the tanks off for resealing. I would assume that the same could be done
to
> the
> > RV tank
> > as well as building or buy a new tank or ?? I am thinking that the old
> tank
> > would be a mess to deal with.
> >
> > Any input ?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Sal Capra
> > Lakeland, FL
> > My Home Page
> > http://hometown.aol.com/cbrxxdrv/index.html
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel tank leaks |
>
>Hey...Thats me! I have built a lot of them....working on a set of RV10
>tanks
>today. If you have just one or two rivets leaking I can probably help you
>fix them. More that that and you should consider a new set of tanks. Give
>me
>a call when you get a chance.
>
>Evan
>(530)351-1776 Cell
Hey, Evan. What are you charging for a set of RV-10 tanks? Your website
doesn't mention them.
Thanks,
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
Watch LIVE baseball games on your computer with MLB.TV, included with MSN
Premium!
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Soliciting advice on replacing throttle quadrant |
with Van's "Deluxe" model
My only complaint with this quadrant is there is metal to metal contact
with the levers and the slot they ride in, if, they are not pushed exactly
straight ahead. Before you install the new one you might want to install
some UHMW tape or something like that.
>
>Hi All,
>
>This weekend, I plan to swap-out the standard 3-lever throttle quadrant in
>my -4 for the "deluxe" version available through Van's. I would like to
>know if anyone has done this and can share any fit/function problems that
>may have been experienced. I don't want my plane down just for upgrading
>the quadrant! I am aware of the "Service Letter" regarding the clevis
>interference.
>Thanks in advance for the help.
>
>Dean Pichon
>RV-4, 185 hrs
>
>Check out MSN PC Safety & Security to help ensure your PC is protected and
>safe. http://specials.msn.com/msn/security.asp
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard McCraw" <rmccraw(at)wcvt.com> |
Subject: | Workshop: What size door? |
I am getting ready to build a house that will have an unfinished walkout
cellar. Within this cellar I plan to set up my workshop so I can finally
start assembling the RV-7 kit I bought about three years ago. (Pretty soon
I'll probably be studying posts about corrosion on stored-too-long skins,
but I already know that's in the archives. Sigh.)
Here's the question: If it were your shop, how big a door would you have?
What is the minimum that would work?
I am assuming, by the way, that I would not be attaching the gear down
there. I don't see having a seven-foot door.
Please pardon if this is answered elsewhere, but I don't see it in the
builder's book or in the archives.
Thanks kindly.
Rick McCraw
RV-7, someday
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Power Vs Speed Vs altitude |
Has anyone done any testing at various power settings to see what air
speeds are obtained. I am trying to find "the wall" where more power really
does little in the way of more speed. Right now I cruise at 60% power, Alt
9500, and 160 knts TAS and 7.5 gal an hour. This seems to be kind of a
sweet spot. Does any one else have any cruise data. Power settings Vs fuel
flow Vs altitude etc. I am just looking for in the ball park figures.
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RVEIGHTA(at)aol.com |
Harry, my prop is a 3-blade, 66" in diam. Pitch is 75." During a static
runup, I get around 2290 rpm. At 8,000' wide open and level I get slightly over
2700 rpm and during a four way run at this altitude I'm going 202 mph at full
throttle. Climb has varied from around 1600' on a hot muggy day to 2400' on a
frigid morning. All of these stats are solo with 1/2 - 3/4 tanks of fuel.
I most likely would see somewhat better performance with the Sensenic metal
prop, but I was more interested in quietness and smoothness which the Catto
delivers in spades. Most pilots who have flown with me comment on how smooth my
Lyc runs and I tell 'em its the prop.
Maybe if I had it to do over, I would have gone with the Catto two-blade, but
frankly I just think the 3 blade just looks so great. You can see my plane in
the February Sport Aviation completions section.
If I can be of any further help, let me know.
Walt Shipley N314TS 85.3 hrs an gettin' ready for SNF
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
Some time back there was a post about using individual Reservoirs mounted on each
master cyl. I could not find it in the archives. Have any of you done it this
way and what are your thoughts/
John Furey
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | WHigg1170(at)aol.com |
Subject: | S/S roll bar brace RV6 Slider ? |
Hello I was wondering if anyone found a good way or place to mount the mag
compass. I was going to mount it on the roll bar brace but I will have to order
a new one that is made of stainless steal, not a big problem yet since I don't
have the top skin on. any info or names of a good compass and mounting
system would be great it will save me research time. Thanks
Bill Higgins
Pembroke Ma
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2004 16:21:52 -0400
>
>
>Some time back there was a post about using individual Reservoirs mounted
>on each master cyl. I could not find it in the archives. Have any of you
>done it this way and what are your thoughts/
>
>John Furey
>RV6A
>
Yes. Recently completed this modification on my -8. Pics of Randy
Lervold's -8 installation can be seen at
http://www.rv-8.com/IdeasProducts.htm.
I don't know if this can be made to work on the -6A but I really like how it
turned out in my airplane.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
Subject: | Power Vs Speed Vs altitude |
Hi Scott,
Almost exactly the same numbers I use on my -360 powered RV6 at the same
altitudes, +/- 1K for winds/direction, etc.. I can do a bit better at 11.5 &
12.5 on Fuel flow and TAS, but as a whole, your numbers are pretty close to
what I see and use for "best economy" cruise. Having a FP prop, I think the
CS guys may be able to do little better, but I'm pretty happy with that!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis.
http://www.steinair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Scott Bilinski
Subject: RV-List: Power Vs Speed Vs altitude
<bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Has anyone done any testing at various power settings to see what air
speeds are obtained. I am trying to find "the wall" where more power really
does little in the way of more speed. Right now I cruise at 60% power, Alt
9500, and 160 knts TAS and 7.5 gal an hour. This seems to be kind of a
sweet spot. Does any one else have any cruise data. Power settings Vs fuel
flow Vs altitude etc. I am just looking for in the ball park figures.
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
Subject: | Re: Brake Reservoir |
> Some time back there was a post about using individual Reservoirs mounted
on each master cyl. I could not find it in the archives. Have any of you
done it this way and what are your thoughts/
>
> John Furey
> RV6A
Not sure if they will work on a -6, but this might be what you're referring
to...
http://www.rv-8.com/IdeasProducts.htm
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 368 hrs, sold
RV-3B, empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave Hyde" <nauga(at)brick.net> |
Subject: | re: Flyoff Request Letter/FAA |
> Hello again...anyone know a link to or where I might get an
> example of the letter that the DAR needs to see requesting
> the flyoff area and any other pert.
There's a sample program letter in Advisor Circular AC20-27F, which is at:
http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgAdvisoryCircular
.nsf/1ab39b4ed563b08985256a35006d56af/0ca2845e2aafffbb86256dbf00640cb2/$FILE
/AC20-27F.pdf
Line wrap will probably kill that, so go to:
http://av-info.faa.gov/
click on "Amateur-Built Aircraft" and follow the links to AC20-27F.
The letter is on page 47 of the PDF doc. It's got a checklist
of things you need to present to the DAR at inspection, so
it's good to review even if you don't use it.
My DAR wanted *much* less detail and went so far as to
rewrite the letter for me (I used AC20-27 as guidance).
The final letter I ended up with basically said,
"This is my airplane. I built it. It was fun. Now I'm
going to fly it."
The flight test area, etc, are in my operating limitations.
Good luck.
Dave Hyde
nauga(at)brick.net
RV-4 in flight test, EAA Technical Counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
Subject: | Re: Brake Reservoir |
Hi John,
My thoughts are that you'd have to be one hamburger short of a picnic to
do that! I have the standard issue setup on my -6 and it's an excellent
system - zero problems. My Stinson had the reservoirs on the pedals and
they were a major pain to service - and the Stinson had a lot of room
under there. Remember that even to just check the fluid, you're going to
have to get upside down and backwards with a flashlight in your teeth. :>)
Dave Bristol -6, So Cal
EAA Technical Counselor
John Furey wrote:
>
>Some time back there was a post about using individual Reservoirs mounted on each
master cyl. I could not find it in the archives. Have any of you done it this
way and what are your thoughts/
>
>John Furey
>RV6A
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Brake Reservoir |
John Furey wrote:
>
>Some time back there was a post about using individual Reservoirs mounted on each
master cyl. I could not find it in the archives. Have any of you done it this
way and what are your thoughts/
>
>John Furey
>RV6A
>
>
>
That is the way it was it was done on all of the old RV-6's with the
floor mounted rudder pedals.
Mine has worked flawlessly for 15 years.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
Thanks for the performance data Walt, and congratulations on a beautiful
airplane. Your comment that if you were doing it again you "might" consider a
Catto two blade instead of the three blade interests me. Can you explain your
reasoning there?
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, final assembly
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Brown" <nightmare(at)adelphia.net> |
Has anybody ever put a step on an RV-6 (not -6A). I need to put one on my already
built -6.
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Workshop: What size door? |
Rick,
I built my RV-7A in my "Radio Room." I'm a ham operator and the radio room
is about 27 by 17 feet inside. By the way, I have had both wings on the plane
inside this room at the same time. It was tight! It is a room of the house
on the ground floor. About a year ago I had the local EAA meeting at my house
and didn't want to spent the whole evening answering, "How you gonna get it
outta here?" So I installed a 6 foot wide double door in place of the single
door at one end or the room. It looks like two regular steel entry doors that
swing toward each other. One door has a latch at the top which you can unlatch
when the other (normal) door is open. I think I can wiggle the RV-7A through
the door on the gear. I will have to start through the door at an angle and
then slide it sideways to continue through the door. I wouldn't want a
smaller door than 6 ft. wide.
Hope this helps,
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (almost done)
In a message dated 4/12/04 1:28:11 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
rmccraw(at)wcvt.com writes:
>
> Here's the question: If it were your shop, how big a door would you have?
> What is the minimum that would work?
>
>
> I am assuming, by the way, that I would not be attaching the gear down
> there. I don't see having a seven-foot door.
>
>
> Please pardon if this is answered elsewhere, but I don't see it in the
> builder's book or in the archives.
>
>
> Thanks kindly.
>
>
> Rick McCraw
>
> RV-7, someday
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Workshop: What size door? |
Rick,
Some additional information. If you don't have steps or gear on your plane
it will go through a 4 foot wide door with about 2 inches to spare. The center
bottom skin is the widest part. If its a -7A you would want to have steps, I
think, and that requires a 5 foot opening.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (almost done)
In a message dated 4/12/04 1:28:11 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
rmccraw(at)wcvt.com writes:
>
> Here's the question: If it were your shop, how big a door would you have?
> What is the minimum that would work?
>
>
> I am assuming, by the way, that I would not be attaching the gear down
> there. I don't see having a seven-foot door.
>
>
> Please pardon if this is answered elsewhere, but I don't see it in the
> builder's book or in the archives.
>
>
> Thanks kindly.
>
>
> Rick McCraw
>
> RV-7, someday
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net> |
Brian,
This is the second set of RV 10 tanks I will have built....the first is
going on my wings :) The labor looks to be about 1700.00 per set. I have to
say these suckers take a long time compared to what I am used to building.
There are just a ton or rivets and gobs of sealant to use. The matched hole
design is really nice though, both sets are looking beautiful. You will have
to plan on using 2 quarts of sealant and the shipping will have to be by
freight. The crates will be too big for UPS. I havent updated the website
because I was waiting to see how the hours balanced out on the second set.
The first set is always slow because of learning curve. If you or any others
out there are interested please feel free to email or call me. If you decide
to build them yourself you should also feel free to call for advise, I dont
mind as long as I dont have proseal setting up on me. If you dont want to
risk the leaks and you dont want to get stickey...call me :)
Evan
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
www.evansaviationproducts.com
evmeg(at)snowcrest.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel tank leaks
>
>
> >
> >Hey...Thats me! I have built a lot of them....working on a set of RV10
> >tanks
> >today. If you have just one or two rivets leaking I can probably help you
> >fix them. More that that and you should consider a new set of tanks. Give
> >me
> >a call when you get a chance.
> >
> >Evan
> >(530)351-1776 Cell
>
> Hey, Evan. What are you charging for a set of RV-10 tanks? Your website
> doesn't mention them.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> RV10 '51
>
> Watch LIVE baseball games on your computer with MLB.TV, included with MSN
> Premium!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
You can check out my upside down pictures here. Care must be taken to
ensure the bolts don't touch each other but I got mine to work out fine.
http://bmnellis.com/images/Fuselage/pedals-seatribs/DCP02987.JPG
Mike Nellis
RV-6 Fuselage N699BM
1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K
http://bmnellis.com
***
*** >
*** >Some time back there was a post about using individual Reservoirs
*** >mounted
*** >on each master cyl. I could not find it in the archives.
*** Have any of you
*** >done it this way and what are your thoughts/
*** >
*** >John Furey
*** >RV6A
*** >
***
*** Yes. Recently completed this modification on my -8. Pics of Randy
*** Lervold's -8 installation can be seen at
*** http://www.rv-8.com/IdeasProducts.htm.
***
*** I don't know if this can be made to work on the -6A but I
*** really like how it
*** turned out in my airplane.
***
*** Brian Denk
*** RV8 N94BD
*** RV10 '51
***
***
*** =============
*** Matronics Forums.
*** =============
*** =============
*** =============
***
***
***
***
***
***
***
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gabe A Ferrer" <ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Fuel Pressure Question |
I also have had similar problems with my EIS fuel pressure sensor.
I talked to Gregg (EIS, Grand Rapids) and he sent me a fuel pressure sensor with
a drilled hole in it to vent it. The fuel sensors don't come with a hole in
them.
I've been dragging my feet in installing the new sensor. I think that it's about
time that I tried it. I'll report in future email.
Gabe A Ferrer
RV6 N2GX 109 hours
South Florida
Email: ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net
Cell: 561 758 8894
Night Phone: 561 622 0960
Fax: 561 622 0960
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | richard dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
Subject: | Re: S/S roll bar brace RV6 Slider ? |
Hi Bill,
Have you checked the roll bar brace with a magnet? I had the same
concern because I wanted to mount my vertical card compass on that bar.
I checked it with a magnet and found it to NOT be ferromagnetic. I had
assumed that it was the same material as the roll bar. The magnet was
not attracted to it whereas the roll bar itself is ferromagnetic. So, my
compass is mounted on that bar. I purchased a mount that was made to go
on that brace.
Good luck.
Richard Dudley
-6A final loose ends before painting
WHigg1170(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>Hello I was wondering if anyone found a good way or place to mount the mag
>compass. I was going to mount it on the roll bar brace but I will have to order
>a new one that is made of stainless steal, not a big problem yet since I don't
>have the top skin on. any info or names of a good compass and mounting
>system would be great it will save me research time. Thanks
>
>Bill Higgins
>Pembroke Ma
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Harvey Sigmon" <rv6hes(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: S/S roll bar brace RV6 Slider ? |
The Roll Bar Brace is Stanless Steel for that purpose.
----- Original Message -----
From: "richard dudley" <rhdudley(at)att.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: S/S roll bar brace RV6 Slider ?
>
> Hi Bill,
> Have you checked the roll bar brace with a magnet? I had the same
> concern because I wanted to mount my vertical card compass on that bar.
> I checked it with a magnet and found it to NOT be ferromagnetic. I had
> assumed that it was the same material as the roll bar. The magnet was
> not attracted to it whereas the roll bar itself is ferromagnetic. So, my
> compass is mounted on that bar. I purchased a mount that was made to go
> on that brace.
>
> Good luck.
>
> Richard Dudley
> -6A final loose ends before painting
>
> WHigg1170(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> >
> >Hello I was wondering if anyone found a good way or place to mount the
mag
> >compass. I was going to mount it on the roll bar brace but I will have to
order
> >a new one that is made of stainless steal, not a big problem yet since I
don't
> >have the top skin on. any info or names of a good compass and mounting
> >system would be great it will save me research time. Thanks
> >
> >Bill Higgins
> >Pembroke Ma
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: S/S roll bar brace RV6 Slider ? |
I'm using a vertical compass card mount purchased from Aircraft Spruce specifically
designed for the slider brace. It's P/N is 10-07934 PACMO-RV6C-KIT
Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
Hello I was wondering if anyone found a good way or place to mount the mag compass.
I was going to mount it on the roll bar brace but I will have to ordera new
one that is made of stainless steal, not a big problem yet since I don'thave
the top skin on. any info or names of a good compass and mounting system would
be great it will save me research time. ThanksBill HigginsPembroke Ma
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | smoothweasel(at)juno.com |
This is a follow up on the planned Fish Fry here in East Mississippi.
Hey Guys/Gals, we are planning a fly-in fish fry for anyone that wants
to come. All ya need ta do is fly in and eat. The strip is 2000ft. grass
and is located right on a fish farm here in east Mississippi. If you have
ever been in this area you have noticed the large amount of ponds here so
this is a great opportunity for you to try some
locally-raised-farm-grown-CATFISH!!!!! Invite your friends (and
enemies......... you don't have to have an RV) and come on down for some
great food.
> > This is an invitation to a fly-in to be held on Saturday, May 15,2004
at
> > 11:00 a.m. We will plan on serving the meal at 12:00 noon. We
welcome
> > all aircraft that land on grass to come try out our strip. If you
don't
> > do grass strips join us for the food and friendly conversation.
> >
> > We are located at:
> > GPS: N 33 08.511' W 088 24.485'
> > 1950 ft. grass N/S runway
> > Caution: Power pole on the S/W corner of the runway
> >
> > If driving:
> > Travel Hwy 45 to Prairie Point Rd. Turn East on Prairie Point Rd,
pass
> > Macon Airport and of about 8.5 mi. to Greenbriar Rd. Turn South onto
> > Greenbriar, look for black catfish mailbox. Turn right at the
mailbox
> > and drive between the ponds to the house. We plan to be there,
waiting
> > for you.
> >
> > Questions? Contact us at:
> > Dwight Lee (662) 726-9709 e-mail: bubbalee69(at)juno.com
> > Levi Lee (662) 726-5560
> >
> > Check e-mail or call before coming if there is a chance of bad
weather
> > cancellation.
> >
> > PS If you know anyone who would enjoy this please pass this
invitation
on
> > for us.
>
Joel "Weasel" Graber
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Bleeding brakes |
A trick which was shown to me by an old A&P: get a hardware store
pressure oil can and some 1/4 OD plastic tube. Attach the can (full of
brake juice) with the tube to the brake bleeder screw. Attach a fitting
w/ another tube to the reservoir, and run the tube into a jar. Open the
bleed screw and pump the oil can until the fluid comes out at the
reservoir end. Keep pumping until you are satisfied the air is out
(which is easy to check- just tighten the bleed screw and try the brakes
w/out disconnecting the apparatus.) Easy to do, and requires only one
person. Just check the overflow jar once in a while, and don't let the
oil can run dry.
Jeff Point
RV-6 14 hours
Milwaukee WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Brake Reservoir |
I have the same setup as Mike (actually, mine is right-side-up) and I
like it. I did have to move a few of the spacers around to get the
reservoirs to miss each other, but they now clear by a good 1/4 inch.
The stock reservoir and lines look awfully leak prone, and I heard
enough horror stories about them to do it this way.
Jeff Point
RV-6 14 hours
Milwaukee WI
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Strapdown inertial navigation systems WAS: Autopilot Itch |
From: | "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" <F.vanderHulst(at)ucol.ac.nz> |
Our email server has been out over Easter, although it seems to be
working again now. I *know* that some of my incoming email has been lost
:-(. So I may have missed replies to Trampas's message. Anyway, here's
my reply...
> So the first step is to measure the angle of the plane. There are two
simple
> ways to do this one is the magnometer which measures earth's magnetic
field,
> however if you are near a hanger this could be off.
That would be a magnetometer, right?
A little-understood fact is that the Earth's magnetic field dips at
various angles, depending where you are on it (round here, it dips at 60
degrees). So, to use a single magnetometer to measure angle, you need to
know where you are, and which way you're facing. You can use 3
orthogonal magnetometers... then you just need to know where you are.
Note that since the magnetic field is characterised as a vector, you
can't measure any rolling about the vector using just magnetometers.
> The second is an inclinometer...
This will work fine whilst on the ground and not accelerating (ie not
turning).
> Ok back to the problem so on the ground we will measure the pitch and
roll using
> two inclinometers. Now we can reset our rate gyros and life is good,
note we are
> assuming plane is upright which is a fair assumption on the ground...
Yup, OK so far.
> Now we take off and the rate gyros have errors in them so at some
point we need
> to reset them. Well if we assume that we still have the inclinometer
then we could
> reset them when the inclinometers are level. However this will not
work as that we
> could be in a banked turn which could throw the inclinometers off.
Yup. An unbanked turn would be even worse.
> So now we to know when we can reset the gyros, which will be basically
when we only
> have gravity vector (and lift hopefully) acting on the plane.
Actually, any time when the nature of the aircraft's motion is known.
However, for practical purpose, this is basically straight and level
flight.
> So we look at the gyros and say yes there is some error but does it
say all forces
> are zero, if so then it might be a good time to reset. Now if we also
look at our
> magnometer (aka compass sensors) and see if we have been flying
straight then we can
> be fairly sure it is a good time to reset. That is we are not in a
long banked turn.
I agree... My guess is that the combination of accelerometers and
magnetometers is used to detect S&L... if total acceleration force is 1G
towards the wheels, and the magnetometer readings aren't changing, then
I guess it's pretty safe to assume S&L. Either that, or the pilot is
executing a perfect 1G roll about the magnetic vector. Assuming flying
due magnetic north or south, that would mean a pitch attitude of 60deg
up or down, and a roll about the aicraft centreline. Flying east/west,
it implies loops, maintaining 1G. In any other direction, some kind of
wierd half-roll, half-loop. Although the due north case is possibly
doable in an RV, *I* certainly wouldn't be able to keep it up for long!
> Well this works well as long as we are upright, which is not a fair
assumption in
> the air. Therefore we need to have a sensor, a simple mercury switch
that tells
> us if we are upright are not. Actually the inclinometers may have this
feature included.
Whoa!! A mercury switch won't tell you whether you're upright or not. If
you execute a loop and maintain positive G all the way, the mercury
switch won't switch.
> Well this would work quite well depending on the error rate of the
gyros, well if we
> also had the velocity of the plane we could compensate for some of the
gyro errors. That
> is if we know we are going 100knts and turning we can get an idea of
what the gyros
> should read. So lets add air speed into the mix as well.
Whoa again! Air speed is not velocity. I guess you could get velocity
from GPS though.
Sensing another parameter such as altitude or maybe airspeed would
narrow down the circulmstances where drift would occur... fly due
magnetic north, pitch up 60deg, roll 1G about the aicraft centreline
whilst not changing altitude might I guess be theoretically possible
(for a moment or two), but I think that flying due magnetic north, pitch
up 60deg, roll 1G whilst not changing altitude OR AIRSPEED would be
completely impossible in an RV. Maybe in an F-22? So throw in something
to measure engine power as well!
> Then we derive equations for our outputs, then we apply these
equations using a signal
> processing method called a Kalman filter. This will basically keep the
system reset all
> the time and provide us with our outputs. We also add some sanity
checks to see if the
> data is in left field and basically ship the product. That is the
magic is actually in
> the filtering algorithm for the data.
I'm familiar with digital filtering, but not Kalman filters
specifically, so I'm not sure how they would help in keeping the system
straight. My approach would be as I've outlined above... detect when the
aircraft is *probably* S&L, and then reset the drift in the gyros. Some
digital filters to keep the way-out numbers out of the calculations.
After all, typically you only want an autopilot to work properly when
you're spending most of your time in S&L flight. If you're doing
hard-out maneuvring like aerobatics, the pilot is responsible for
judging where the horizon is. Dunno how well you would expect an
autopilot to work whilst inside a turbulent cloud, but I would
expect/hope that that would be only for limited time, so the drift
wouldn't be too significant.
> I would also guess that they use temperature inside their box as well
to compensate the
> gyros but again this is only a WAG.
I'd guess that that wouldn't be necessary... the box is in the cockpit,
where temperatures are kept within a reasonable range.
> If someone wants to pay me to do it I will even make an attempt to see
if this system would actually work. :)
Me too! :-)
Frank
Learn real skills for the real world - Apply online
at http://www.ucol.ac.nz or call 0800 GO UCOL
(0800 46 8265) or txt free 3388 for more information
and make a good move to UCOL Universal College of
Learning.
Enrol with a public institute and be certain of your
future
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Bleeding brakes |
Jeff,
I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the same procedure you outlined
using a dedicated ACT pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the reservoir
fluid to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to a week or
more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear and collect at the high point in
the loops of the dual brake line system no matter what I do. Both left and right
brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes during the bleeding process,
l've used relatively high pressure, low pressure, but always making sure
the lines and overflow are absolutely bubble free before I stop the process.
Sure enough, after a period of time passes, usually after several days, the
bubbles reappear. The brakes *seem* okay when I depress them, the bubbles merely
migrate a bit when I depress the petals, but I have no way to judge brake
effectiveness until real world taxi tests. I would sure like to see no bubbles
at all in the lines at any time, what am I
overlooking.......thoughts?
Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
A trick which was shown to me by an old A&P: get a hardware store
pressure oil can and some 1/4 OD plastic tube. Attach the can (full of
brake juice) with the tube to the brake bleeder screw. Attach a fitting
w/ another tube to the reservoir, and run the tube into a jar. Open the
bleed screw and pump the oil can until the fluid comes out at the
reservoir end. Keep pumping until you are satisfied the air is out
(which is easy to check- just tighten the bleed screw and try the brakes
w/out disconnecting the apparatus.) Easy to do, and requires only one
person. Just check the overflow jar once in a while, and don't let the
oil can run dry.
Jeff Point
RV-6 14 hours
Milwaukee
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Bleeding brakes |
From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)warpdriveonline.com> |
on 4/13/04 6:27 AM, Rick Galati at rick6a(at)yahoo.com wrote:
>
> Jeff,
>
> I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the same procedure you
> outlined using a dedicated ACT pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the
> reservoir fluid to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to a
> week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear and collect at the high
> point in the loops of the dual brake line system no matter what I do.
>
> Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
>
It sounds like you have a leak in the system.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://n5lp.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Shemp" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Oil/gas leak out of Bendix Servo |
Yep, it was somewhat pickled for 6 years. It wasnt sealed but it did have a
lot of preservative oil in it.
I only have a hole inside the filter now. I never thought to put a second
one. Thanks for the tip.
Jeff Dowling
RV-6a/ 52 hours
Chicago/ Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Oil/gas leak out of Bendix Servo
>
>
> > Im wondering if anyone has seen this before.
> >
> > I have a Bendix fi servo and Ive noticed some liquid seeping
> > out of the bottom of the servo on the top of the fab mounting
> > plate upon shutdown. The air cleaner also seems awful dark
> > looking thru the fiberglass, oil? I call it a "liquid"
> > because I cant determine what it is. It seems to be a mix of
> > oil and fuel but I gave up on my rotax a long time ago:) Its
> > a blueish thick oilly mess. It also drips out of the bottom
> > of the fab. I dont know what to make of it.
>
> Was your engine pickled prior to being started? If so, I suspect what
> you are finding is induction oil from the pickling that is being washed
> down to the FAB with priming. It seems that mine did that for a couple
> hundred hours. The pickling oil sort of turns waxy, and does not run or
> weep by itself. Since no fuel is being sucked up the induction system,
> the only time it gets washed is by prime running down.
>
> Do you have small holes on the bottom of the FAB, both inside and
> outside the filter? The hole inside will drain the goo you talk about,
> and the hole outside will drain water. I found that the oily stuff
> attacks the fiberglass of the FAB, and after about 400 hours I needed to
> put some new layers of glass on the bottom inside of the FAB. You may
> want to proseal on a fitting on the hole which is inside the filter, and
> connect it to a little drain line to bring the slime to the back of the
> cooling air exit. Otherwise, it seems to lubricate the nose gear
> fairing. Don't use any fitting which will have a part inside the
> filter!
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> RV6-A N66AP 454 hours
>
> http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Shemp" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | 2 planes in one hangar? |
Im wondering if my little low wing 6a would fit in a "standard" hangar with a small-ish
high wing, ie c150 or 172. The place I would like to keep her is in
Schaumburg, about 5 miles from ORD, and has a waiting list of about 3 billion
years. If it would fit, Im planning on approaching one of the current renters
with an offer he cant refuse :)
Jeff Dowling
RV-6a/ 52 hours
Chicago/ Louisville
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ron Burnett" <smileyburnett(at)charter.net> |
Subject: | Re: Brake Reservoir |
Does this eliminate all the lines in a single brake system and what about
dual brakes?
Ron Burnett
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Point" <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Brake Reservoir
>
> I have the same setup as Mike (actually, mine is right-side-up) and I
> like it. I did have to move a few of the spacers around to get the
> reservoirs to miss each other, but they now clear by a good 1/4 inch.
> The stock reservoir and lines look awfully leak prone, and I heard
> enough horror stories about them to do it this way.
>
> Jeff Point
> RV-6 14 hours
> Milwaukee WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dave Durakovich <ddurakovich(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Engine overhaul? |
Getting ready to redo a Lyc. O-360 for an RV-4, and would like local (or thereabouts)
folks to work with if possible. I'm in Detroit, and I consider most of
the mid-west as well as Western NY and PA as local.
Pretty much going to do it all, and prefer to do it myself (disassembly/asembly/maybe
the accessories), so any reccomendations for bottom end, case, and cylinder
guys would be appreciated.
I've already talked to G&N about doing a bottom end only and they politely declined
- an insurance thing.
Anyone know anything about Harrison Engine Service in LaPorte, IN?
Thanks,
Dave Durakovich
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
Subject: | 2 planes in one hangar? |
I have seen two RV6's in a single hangar. Small ramp to facilitate wing
overlap. "Twas CLOSE.
So *maybe* it could work.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Shemp
> Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 10:15 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: 2 planes in one hangar?
>
>
> Im wondering if my little low wing 6a would fit in a "standard"
> hangar with a small-ish high wing, ie c150 or 172. The place I
> would like to keep her is in Schaumburg, about 5 miles from ORD,
> and has a waiting list of about 3 billion years. If it would
> fit, Im planning on approaching one of the current renters with
> an offer he cant refuse :)
>
> Jeff Dowling
> RV-6a/ 52 hours
> Chicago/ Louisville
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Travis Hamblen" <TravisHamblen(at)cox.net> |
I am about to have my prop refinished and wanted some input from guys who
have wood props. I have seen many props with the back of the prop painted
black, is there a reason for this? Mine is just stained like the front and
I don=92t have any visibility problems. Does this enhance the visibility
through the prop in night flight or any other time, or maybe is it just for
looks? Any other tips or things to ask for when I have the prop refinished
would be greatly appreciated. This will be my first refinish of a wood prop
so I want to get the best job done. The prop is an Ed Sterba prop (68x76 on
my RV-6A w/ O-320) and it is a GREAT prop, it is pitched just right and I
have not one complaint other than I can=92t fly it in the rain! I will be
having Jeff at Props Inc doing the refinish, and I have heard good things
about his service. Any input is VERY appreciated.
Travis
RV-6A @ VGT 335 hrs
--
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus (http://www.grisoft.com).
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Bleeding brakes |
In a message dated 4/13/04 7:30:04 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
rick6a(at)yahoo.com writes:
> Jeff,
>
> I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the same procedure you
> outlined using a dedicated ACT pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the
> reservoir fluid to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to a
> week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear and collect at the high
> point in the loops of the dual brake line system no matter what I do. Both
> left and right brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes during the
> bleeding process, l've used relatively high pressure, low pressure, but always
> making sure the lines and overflow are absolutely bubble free before I stop
> the process. Sure enough, after a period of time passes, usually after
> several days, the bubbles reappear. The brakes *seem* okay when I depress them,
> the bubbles merely migrate a bit when I depress the petals, but I have no way
> to judge brake effectiveness until real world taxi tests. I would sure like
> to see no bubbles at all in the lines at any time, what am I
> overlooking.......thoughts?
>
> Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Bleeding brakes |
Rick,
Whoops! Please excuse the empty post.
The air is probably not all out of the system. Maybe there are some small
bubbles still trapped that finally collect at the highest point. I doubt if air
is leaking in. Can you pull down on the plastic hoses, maybe tape them down
temporarily, so that the air can escape up into the reservoir?
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (almost done)
In a message dated 4/13/04 7:30:04 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
rick6a(at)yahoo.com writes:
> Jeff,
>
> I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the same procedure you
> outlined using a dedicated ACT pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the
> reservoir fluid to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to a
> week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear and collect at the high
> point in the loops of the dual brake line system no matter what I do. Both
> left and right brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes during the
> bleeding process, l've used relatively high pressure, low pressure, but always
> making sure the lines and overflow are absolutely bubble free before I stop
> the process. Sure enough, after a period of time passes, usually after
> several days, the bubbles reappear. The brakes *seem* okay when I depress them,
> the bubbles merely migrate a bit when I depress the petals, but I have no way
> to judge brake effectiveness until real world taxi tests. I would sure like
> to see no bubbles at all in the lines at any time, what am I
> overlooking.......thoughts?
>
> Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: 2 planes in one hangar? |
Jeff,
If your tail is low enough to go under the wing of the high wing it will
probably fit. If the tail is low enough, make some scale "paper dolls" and try
it
on paper.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (still almost done)
In a message dated 4/13/04 9:21:41 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
shempdowling(at)earthlink.net writes:
>
>
> Im wondering if my little low wing 6a would fit in a "standard" hangar with
> a small-ish high wing, ie c150 or 172. The place I would like to keep her is
> in Schaumburg, about 5 miles from ORD, and has a waiting list of about 3
> billion years. If it would fit, Im planning on approaching one of the current
> renters with an offer he cant refuse :)
>
> Jeff Dowling
> RV-6a/ 52 hours
> Chicago/ Louisville
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Travis Hamblen" <TravisHamblen(at)cox.net> |
I am about to have my prop refinished and wanted some input from guys who
have wood props. I have seen many props with the back of the prop painted
black, is there a reason for this? Mine is just stained like the front and
I don=92t have any visibility problems. Does this enhance the visibility
through the prop in night flight or any other time, or maybe is it just for
looks? Any other tips or things to ask for when I have the prop refinished
would be greatly appreciated. This will be my first refinish of a wood prop
so I want to get the best job done. The prop is an Ed Sterba prop (68x76 on
my RV-6A w/ O-320) and it is a GREAT prop, it is pitched just right and I
have not one complaint other than I can=92t fly it in the rain! I will be
having Jeff at Props Inc doing the refinish, and I have heard good things
about his service. Any input is VERY appreciated.
Travis
RV-6A @ VGT 335 hrs
--
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus (http://www.grisoft.com).
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Engine overhaul? |
In a message dated 4/13/04 9:35:11 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
ddurakovich(at)yahoo.com writes:
>
> Anyone know anything about Harrison Engine Service in LaPorte, IN?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave Durakovich
>
Dave,
Harrison does only cylinders, I'm pretty sure.
You're lucky G&N declined!
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (almost done)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Brake Reservoir |
Yes, it eliminates all the lines in you go single brake. If using dual,
I would put the reservoirs on the pax side and run lines from the pax to
the pilots side, thus eliminating one set of lines.
Jeff Point
>Does this eliminate all the lines in a single brake system and what about
>dual brakes?
>Ron Burnett
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
Subject: | Re: 2 planes in one hangar? |
Jeff,
It will likely fit. I've done this several times, when I've had RV's
visiting me (I just slip them into a friend's hanger with his Cessna 175).
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Shemp <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: 2 planes in one hangar?
>
> Im wondering if my little low wing 6a would fit in a "standard" hangar
with a small-ish high wing, ie c150 or 172. The place I would like to keep
her is in Schaumburg, about 5 miles from ORD, and has a waiting list of
about 3 billion years. If it would fit, Im planning on approaching one of
the current renters with an offer he cant refuse :)
>
> Jeff Dowling
> RV-6a/ 52 hours
> Chicago/ Louisville
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Thorne" <rv7a(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Engine Decision-Sump Choice |
I've decided to go with an ECI or Superior O-360 Clone with fuel injection and
dual electronic ignition, Plasma II Plus and a Plasma III. The final decision
is the sump. Other than the lack of scoop is there any advantage to the horizontal
sump to offset the added cost? Can you obtain any "Ram Air" effect with
the Van's cowl?
Jim Thorne
RV-7A QB
CHD
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: 2 planes in one hangar? |
Jeff,
I share an approximately 43'X43' hangar that houses my C-150, a hangarmate's 172
and my unfinished RV-6A. Full to be sure but they all fit. The wings of the
172 will pass over the canopy of my 6A, but not so with my 150, but just barely.
When my 150 happens to be spotted next to the RV, and I want to go flying,
I have to put a blanket over the roll bar to keep from scratching the paint
on the lower surface of the wing of the 150 as it slides over the top of the RV's
roll bar (the windshield is not yet attached). If someone is available, I
simply have them lift the wing slightly so that it clears the RV as I push or
pull the 150 into or out of the hangar to clear the RV. Its a minor aggravation,
but it works.
Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
>
>
> Im wondering if my little low wing 6a would fit in a "standard" hangar with
> a small-ish high wing, ie c150 or 172. The place I would like to keep her is
> in Schaumburg, about 5 miles from ORD, and has a waiting list of about 3
> billion years. If it would fit, Im planning on approaching one of the current
> renters with an offer he cant refuse :)
>
> Jeff Dowling
> RV-6a/ 52 hours
> Chicago/ Louisville
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
We have an Ed Sterba prop on our O-320 RV6 as well. A couple of things to
consider ...
I recall Ed saying that paint imbalance can cause vibrations in the prop.
Never mind ... I see you are having a shop do it that does this all the
time.
Many props are BLACK on the back so as to *not* reflect light from the
STROBES. Making it white might be problematic.
On a different note, what kind of performance do you get with this combo???
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Travis Hamblen
> Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 11:19 AM
> To: RV-List(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Wood prop
>
>
> I am about to have my prop refinished and wanted some input from guys who
> have wood props. I have seen many props with the back of the prop painted
> black, is there a reason for this? Mine is just stained like the
> front and
> I don=92t have any visibility problems. Does this enhance the visibility
> through the prop in night flight or any other time, or maybe is
> it just for
> looks? Any other tips or things to ask for when I have the prop
> refinished
> would be greatly appreciated. This will be my first refinish of
> a wood prop
> so I want to get the best job done. The prop is an Ed Sterba
> prop (68x76 on
> my RV-6A w/ O-320) and it is a GREAT prop, it is pitched just right and I
> have not one complaint other than I can=92t fly it in the rain! I will be
> having Jeff at Props Inc doing the refinish, and I have heard good things
> about his service. Any input is VERY appreciated.
>
>
> Travis
>
> RV-6A @ VGT 335 hrs
>
>
> --
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus (http://www.grisoft.com).
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: Bleeding brakes |
>
> >
> > I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the same procedure you
> > outlined using a dedicated ACT pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the
> > reservoir fluid to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days
> to a
> > week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear and collect at
> the high
> > point in the loops of the dual brake line system no matter what I do.
>
>
> >
> > Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
> >
>
>
>It sounds like you have a leak in the system.
>
>Larry Pardue
>Carlsbad, NM
Larry & Rick,
My old RV-4 couldn't be bled properly using any conceivable method
suggested. There was always a one to two inch bubble in the upper loop or
down by the wheel cylinder fitting. I finally ended up loosening the
fitting on the wheel cylinder(just barely), and pressed down on the brake
pedal to squeeze the air out. Later I loosened a fitting up near the master
cylinder. It seems that, sometimes, there are loops and crannies that allow
fluid to be pumped right by them. My current -4 seems to bleed very easily
using the "oil can" or pressure bleeder that is standard in most shops. Go
figure...
PS... These bubbles never seemed to affect the feel or braking ability of
the aircraft. Go figure that, too...
Louis
Louis I Willig
1640 Oakwood Dr.
Penn Valley, PA 19072
610 668-4964
RV-4, N180PF ("Miss Viagra")
190HP IO-360, C/S prop
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Knicholas2(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: 2 planes in one hangar? |
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Knicholas2(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: 2 planes in one hangar? |
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Knicholas2(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: 2 planes in one hangar? |
A friend just installed an aero-lift in his hanger. (www.ArmAerospace.com)
It is very cool although it makes me nervous seeing a beautiful Mooney
houvering over a beautiful Beech. Appartently the insurance companies are ok with
it
because it did not affect his rates. ...yet another option..
Kim Nicholas
Seattle - RV9A. Almost done!!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Shemp" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: 2 planes in one hangar? |
How tall is the hangar?
----- Original Message -----
From: <Knicholas2(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: 2 planes in one hangar?
>
> A friend just installed an aero-lift in his hanger. (www.ArmAerospace.com)
> It is very cool although it makes me nervous seeing a beautiful Mooney
> houvering over a beautiful Beech. Appartently the insurance companies are
ok with it
> because it did not affect his rates. ...yet another option..
>
> Kim Nicholas
> Seattle - RV9A. Almost done!!!!!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gordon Robertson" <grobertson(at)verizon.net> |
>>Some time back there was a post about using individual Reservoirs mounted
on each
>>master cyl. I could not find it in the archives. Have any of you done it
this
>>way and what are your thoughts/
I have done this on my RV-8. At first I thought it was a great idea, save
hoses, chances of leakage, etc. But now I am not so sure. The first thing
is that it restricts the travel of the pedals somewhat, the reservoir
contacts the firewall if the pedals are adjusted fully forward. I have
tried to think of ways to put the reservoir at the side of the pedal, but no
luck. I have not made the final decision just yet, but you should check
your clearances.
Gordon Robertson
RV-8 waiting for engine
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
Subject: | Re: Bleeding brakes |
Here's something that might work for one person brake bleeding. At $10/ea
it might be an interesting investment.
http://www.cyclebrakes.com/Accessories.htm middle of the page.
Mike Nellis
RV-6 Fuselage N699BM
1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K
http://bmnellis.com
*** -----Original Message-----
*** From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
*** [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Galati
*** Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 7:27 AM
*** To: jpoint(at)mindspring.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com
*** Subject: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
***
***
***
*** Jeff,
***
*** I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the
*** same procedure you outlined using a dedicated ACT
*** pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the reservoir fluid
*** to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to
*** a week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear
*** and collect at the high point in the loops of the dual
*** brake line system no matter what I do. Both left and right
*** brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes during
*** the bleeding process, l've used relatively high pressure,
*** low pressure, but always making sure the lines and overflow
*** are absolutely bubble free before I stop the process. Sure
*** enough, after a period of time passes, usually after
*** several days, the bubbles reappear. The brakes *seem* okay
*** when I depress them, the bubbles merely migrate a bit when
*** I depress the petals, but I have no way to judge brake
*** effectiveness until real world taxi tests. I would sure
*** like to see no bubbles at all in the lines at any time,
*** what am I overlooking.......thoughts?
***
*** Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
***
***
*** A trick which was shown to me by an old A&P: get a hardware store
*** pressure oil can and some 1/4 OD plastic tube. Attach the
*** can (full of
*** brake juice) with the tube to the brake bleeder screw.
*** Attach a fitting
*** w/ another tube to the reservoir, and run the tube into a
*** jar. Open the
*** bleed screw and pump the oil can until the fluid comes out at the
*** reservoir end. Keep pumping until you are satisfied the air is out
*** (which is easy to check- just tighten the bleed screw and
*** try the brakes
*** w/out disconnecting the apparatus.) Easy to do, and
*** requires only one
*** person. Just check the overflow jar once in a while, and
*** don't let the
*** oil can run dry.
***
*** Jeff Point
*** RV-6 14 hours
*** Milwaukee
***
***
***
*** ---------------------------------
***
***
*** =============
*** Matronics Forums.
*** =============
*** =============
*** =============
***
***
***
***
***
***
***
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | WHigg1170(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: S/S roll bar brace RV6 Slider ? |
Yes, I did. Right after I wrote the e mail just for the heck of it I checked
it with a magnet and it was made of stainless steal.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Brake Reservoir |
I to put the reservoirs at the side of the pedals and no go. I moved them
to the fire wall between the pedals just below the baggage compartment
floor. I can add fluid by the access cover in the baggage compartment floor
which is 1/4 inch above the reservoirs. Oh, this is on an 8a.
>
>>>Some time back there was a post about using individual Reservoirs mounted
>on each
>>>master cyl. I could not find it in the archives. Have any of you done it
>this
>>>way and what are your thoughts/
>
>
>I have done this on my RV-8. At first I thought it was a great idea, save
>hoses, chances of leakage, etc. But now I am not so sure. The first thing
>is that it restricts the travel of the pedals somewhat, the reservoir
>contacts the firewall if the pedals are adjusted fully forward. I have
>tried to think of ways to put the reservoir at the side of the pedal, but no
>luck. I have not made the final decision just yet, but you should check
>your clearances.
>
>Gordon Robertson
>
>RV-8 waiting for engine
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
Subject: | Re: Bleeding brakes |
Mike,
That's looks GREAT. But I don't know which one to order... they don't
list my RV-4.
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Nellis <mike(at)bmnellis.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
>
> Here's something that might work for one person brake bleeding. At $10/ea
> it might be an interesting investment.
> http://www.cyclebrakes.com/Accessories.htm middle of the page.
>
> Mike Nellis
> RV-6 Fuselage N699BM
> 1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K
> http://bmnellis.com
>
> *** -----Original Message-----
> *** From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> *** [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Galati
> *** Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 7:27 AM
> *** To: jpoint(at)mindspring.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com
> *** Subject: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
> ***
> ***
> ***
> *** Jeff,
> ***
> *** I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the
> *** same procedure you outlined using a dedicated ACT
> *** pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the reservoir fluid
> *** to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to
> *** a week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear
> *** and collect at the high point in the loops of the dual
> *** brake line system no matter what I do. Both left and right
> *** brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes during
> *** the bleeding process, l've used relatively high pressure,
> *** low pressure, but always making sure the lines and overflow
> *** are absolutely bubble free before I stop the process. Sure
> *** enough, after a period of time passes, usually after
> *** several days, the bubbles reappear. The brakes *seem* okay
> *** when I depress them, the bubbles merely migrate a bit when
> *** I depress the petals, but I have no way to judge brake
> *** effectiveness until real world taxi tests. I would sure
> *** like to see no bubbles at all in the lines at any time,
> *** what am I overlooking.......thoughts?
> ***
> *** Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
> ***
> ***
> *** A trick which was shown to me by an old A&P: get a hardware store
> *** pressure oil can and some 1/4 OD plastic tube. Attach the
> *** can (full of
> *** brake juice) with the tube to the brake bleeder screw.
> *** Attach a fitting
> *** w/ another tube to the reservoir, and run the tube into a
> *** jar. Open the
> *** bleed screw and pump the oil can until the fluid comes out at the
> *** reservoir end. Keep pumping until you are satisfied the air is out
> *** (which is easy to check- just tighten the bleed screw and
> *** try the brakes
> *** w/out disconnecting the apparatus.) Easy to do, and
> *** requires only one
> *** person. Just check the overflow jar once in a while, and
> *** don't let the
> *** oil can run dry.
> ***
> *** Jeff Point
> *** RV-6 14 hours
> *** Milwaukee
> ***
> ***
> ***
> *** ---------------------------------
> ***
> ***
> *** =============
> *** Matronics Forums.
> *** =============
> *** =============
> *** =============
> ***
> ***
> ***
> ***
> ***
> ***
> ***
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Japundza <bjapundza(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Engine Decision-Sump Choice |
Jim,
Talk to Larry Vetterman--he has one of the new plastic sumps on his RV-4 and has
a lot of good things to say about it. Hopping up a Lyc. without modifying or
replacing the sump is a wasted effort IMO. In order to get more power out of
these engines you have to get them to swallow more air and fuel, and improving
the induction system is one thing you have to do in order to get those results.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying 500+ hours
F1 QB under const. - highly modified sump and RSA-10 servo
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "GMC" <gmcnutt(at)uniserve.com> |
Subject: | Re: Bleeding brakes |
>
> I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the same procedure
you
> outlined using a dedicated ACT pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the
> reservoir fluid to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to
a
> week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear and collect at the
high
> point in the loops of the dual brake line system no matter what I do.
>
> Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
>
Relax Gents
Dual brakes on my 6A. During first filling I had no bubbles, then when
drained for servicing and subsequent refill there was no way to eliminate
the bubbles. I believe that is due to the slippery residue inside the lines,
the brake fluid goes around the bubbles leaving them at the high spots.
I tried regular oil can filling, pressure pot refilling from bottom and also
tried a vacuum pump at reservoir with suction filling from below, no way
could I eliminate seeing bubbles in brake line. Maybe I should paint the
lines black to avoid seeing bubbles!
Anyway my brakes have operated satisfactorily with bubbles at the high spots
for 260+ hrs.
George in Langley
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mark/Micki Phillips" <mphill(at)gcctv.com> |
Subject: | Re: Step for RV6 |
Paul, I got a pair, give ya a good deal, primed with variprime. Do not
archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Brown" <nightmare(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: RV-List: Step for RV6
>
> Has anybody ever put a step on an RV-6 (not -6A). I need to put one on my
already built -6.
>
> Paul
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)QCBC.ORG> |
Subject: | Re: Bleeding brakes |
Unfortunately, those check ball bleeder screws are set up to pump fluid out
of the wheel cylinder top by pressure from the master cylinder.
Aircraft bleeder valves on the other hand are installed in the bottom of the
cylinder and the fluid must be pumped in the opposite direction into the
bottom up thru the master cylinder.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
>
> Here's something that might work for one person brake bleeding. At $10/ea
> it might be an interesting investment.
> http://www.cyclebrakes.com/Accessories.htm middle of the page.
>
> Mike Nellis
> RV-6 Fuselage N699BM
> 1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K
> http://bmnellis.com
>
> *** -----Original Message-----
> *** From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> *** [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Galati
> *** Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 7:27 AM
> *** To: jpoint(at)mindspring.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com
> *** Subject: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
> ***
> ***
> ***
> *** Jeff,
> ***
> *** I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the
> *** same procedure you outlined using a dedicated ACT
> *** pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the reservoir fluid
> *** to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to
> *** a week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear
> *** and collect at the high point in the loops of the dual
> *** brake line system no matter what I do. Both left and right
> *** brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes during
> *** the bleeding process, l've used relatively high pressure,
> *** low pressure, but always making sure the lines and overflow
> *** are absolutely bubble free before I stop the process. Sure
> *** enough, after a period of time passes, usually after
> *** several days, the bubbles reappear. The brakes *seem* okay
> *** when I depress them, the bubbles merely migrate a bit when
> *** I depress the petals, but I have no way to judge brake
> *** effectiveness until real world taxi tests. I would sure
> *** like to see no bubbles at all in the lines at any time,
> *** what am I overlooking.......thoughts?
> ***
> *** Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
> ***
> ***
> *** A trick which was shown to me by an old A&P: get a hardware store
> *** pressure oil can and some 1/4 OD plastic tube. Attach the
> *** can (full of
> *** brake juice) with the tube to the brake bleeder screw.
> *** Attach a fitting
> *** w/ another tube to the reservoir, and run the tube into a
> *** jar. Open the
> *** bleed screw and pump the oil can until the fluid comes out at the
> *** reservoir end. Keep pumping until you are satisfied the air is out
> *** (which is easy to check- just tighten the bleed screw and
> *** try the brakes
> *** w/out disconnecting the apparatus.) Easy to do, and
> *** requires only one
> *** person. Just check the overflow jar once in a while, and
> *** don't let the
> *** oil can run dry.
> ***
> *** Jeff Point
> *** RV-6 14 hours
> *** Milwaukee
> ***
> ***
> ***
> *** ---------------------------------
> ***
> ***
> *** =============
> *** Matronics Forums.
> *** =============
> *** =============
> *** =============
> ***
> ***
> ***
> ***
> ***
> ***
> ***
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
Subject: | Re: Bleeding brakes |
I dis-agree.
It seems to me that the motorcycle hydraulic brakes system is set up almost
identical to our system, especially those of us who have installed the
reservoir on the master cylinder.
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Cy Galley <cgalley(at)QCBC.ORG>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
>
> Unfortunately, those check ball bleeder screws are set up to pump fluid
out
> of the wheel cylinder top by pressure from the master cylinder.
>
> Aircraft bleeder valves on the other hand are installed in the bottom of
the
> cylinder and the fluid must be pumped in the opposite direction into the
> bottom up thru the master cylinder.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com>
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
>
>
> >
> > Here's something that might work for one person brake bleeding. At
$10/ea
> > it might be an interesting investment.
> > http://www.cyclebrakes.com/Accessories.htm middle of the page.
> >
> > Mike Nellis
> > RV-6 Fuselage N699BM
> > 1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K
> > http://bmnellis.com
> >
> > *** -----Original Message-----
> > *** From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > *** [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Galati
> > *** Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 7:27 AM
> > *** To: jpoint(at)mindspring.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > *** Subject: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
> > ***
> > ***
> > ***
> > *** Jeff,
> > ***
> > *** I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the
> > *** same procedure you outlined using a dedicated ACT
> > *** pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the reservoir fluid
> > *** to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to
> > *** a week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear
> > *** and collect at the high point in the loops of the dual
> > *** brake line system no matter what I do. Both left and right
> > *** brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes during
> > *** the bleeding process, l've used relatively high pressure,
> > *** low pressure, but always making sure the lines and overflow
> > *** are absolutely bubble free before I stop the process. Sure
> > *** enough, after a period of time passes, usually after
> > *** several days, the bubbles reappear. The brakes *seem* okay
> > *** when I depress them, the bubbles merely migrate a bit when
> > *** I depress the petals, but I have no way to judge brake
> > *** effectiveness until real world taxi tests. I would sure
> > *** like to see no bubbles at all in the lines at any time,
> > *** what am I overlooking.......thoughts?
> > ***
> > *** Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
> > ***
> > ***
> > *** A trick which was shown to me by an old A&P: get a hardware store
> > *** pressure oil can and some 1/4 OD plastic tube. Attach the
> > *** can (full of
> > *** brake juice) with the tube to the brake bleeder screw.
> > *** Attach a fitting
> > *** w/ another tube to the reservoir, and run the tube into a
> > *** jar. Open the
> > *** bleed screw and pump the oil can until the fluid comes out at the
> > *** reservoir end. Keep pumping until you are satisfied the air is out
> > *** (which is easy to check- just tighten the bleed screw and
> > *** try the brakes
> > *** w/out disconnecting the apparatus.) Easy to do, and
> > *** requires only one
> > *** person. Just check the overflow jar once in a while, and
> > *** don't let the
> > *** oil can run dry.
> > ***
> > *** Jeff Point
> > *** RV-6 14 hours
> > *** Milwaukee
> > ***
> > ***
> > ***
> > *** ---------------------------------
> > ***
> > ***
> > *** =============
> > *** Matronics Forums.
> > *** =============
> > *** =============
> > *** =============
> > ***
> > ***
> > ***
> > ***
> > ***
> > ***
> > ***
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Travis Hamblen" <TravisHamblen(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Fuel pressure gauge for sale |
I have a Mitchell fuel pressure gauge for sale. It is in PERFECT condition,
just went to a different system so I don=92t need this one. I have pictures
available and whoever buys this can rest assured that it works perfectly. I
still have the box it came in, bubble wrap it was wrapped in and the receipt
from Aircraft Spruce. I will give you everything. It is part number
10-10152 at Aircraft Spruce (Mitchell part number D1-211-6064) and is $89.00
plus shipping was $7.47 for a total of $96.47. I will sell it to you for
$65.00 which INCLUDES SHIPPING! I can accept credit card payments if
necessary. This is a good deal for a fellow RV owner. E-mail me to make
arrangements.
Travis Hamblen
HYPERLINK "mailto:TravisHamblen(at)cox.net"TravisHamblen(at)cox.net
RV-6A @ VGT
--
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus (http://www.grisoft.com).
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Shemp" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
I just heard from a friend down there that Tom Green said the 10 had some problems
on the way down and wont make the airshow. Something about a door latch maybe.....
Jeff
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Neil Henderson" <neil.mo51(at)btopenworld.com> |
Subject: | Re: S/S roll bar brace RV6 Slider ? |
Bill
I think you will find the standard support bar that is supplied by Van's is non
magnetic.
Neil Henderson RV9-A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bruce Meacham" <bruce_meacham(at)hotmail.com> |
See add as posted on Barnstormers for pictures:
http://www.barnstormers.com/listing.php?id34843
RV-3 '91 610 TTAE 50 STOH (Mattituck), O-320 E2C 150hp immaculate. New paint job,
Dynon EFIS, Micro Monitor, Garmin 195, Becker 4201 Comm, mode-c transponder,
night equipped, a true 10/10! Earnest money required. $31,500 Contact: Brock
Vaughn - located Bedford, MA USA Telephone: 781-354-6656 or Bruce Meacham (978)-557-9378
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mickey & Paula" <mimartin(at)sweetwaterhsa.com> |
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dale Walker <davawalker(at)nwboronet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Engine overhaul? |
>
>Getting ready to redo a Lyc. O-360 for an RV-4, and would like local (or
>thereabouts)
>folks to work with if possible. I'm in Detroit, and I consider most of
>the mid-west as well as Western NY and PA as local.
>
>Pretty much going to do it all, and prefer to do it myself
>(disassembly/asembly/maybe
>the accessories), so any reccomendations for bottom end, case, and cylinder
>guys would be appreciated.
>
>I've already talked to G&N about doing a bottom end only and they politely
>declined - an insurance thing.
>
>Anyone know anything about Harrison Engine Service in LaPorte, IN?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Dave Durakovich
>
>Dave, In my experience they do a very,very poor job on cylinders.
Dale Walker-RV7
>
>---------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)QCBC.ORG> |
Subject: | Re: Bleeding brakes |
You can't use any of them as the threads are METRIC not SAE!
----- Original Message -----
From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
>
> Mike,
>
> That's looks GREAT. But I don't know which one to order... they don't
> list my RV-4.
>
> Chuck
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Mike Nellis <mike(at)bmnellis.com>
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
>
>
> >
> > Here's something that might work for one person brake bleeding. At
$10/ea
> > it might be an interesting investment.
> > http://www.cyclebrakes.com/Accessories.htm middle of the page.
> >
> > Mike Nellis
> > RV-6 Fuselage N699BM
> > 1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K
> > http://bmnellis.com
> >
> > *** -----Original Message-----
> > *** From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > *** [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Galati
> > *** Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 7:27 AM
> > *** To: jpoint(at)mindspring.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > *** Subject: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
> > ***
> > ***
> > ***
> > *** Jeff,
> > ***
> > *** I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the
> > *** same procedure you outlined using a dedicated ACT
> > *** pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the reservoir fluid
> > *** to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to
> > *** a week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear
> > *** and collect at the high point in the loops of the dual
> > *** brake line system no matter what I do. Both left and right
> > *** brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes during
> > *** the bleeding process, l've used relatively high pressure,
> > *** low pressure, but always making sure the lines and overflow
> > *** are absolutely bubble free before I stop the process. Sure
> > *** enough, after a period of time passes, usually after
> > *** several days, the bubbles reappear. The brakes *seem* okay
> > *** when I depress them, the bubbles merely migrate a bit when
> > *** I depress the petals, but I have no way to judge brake
> > *** effectiveness until real world taxi tests. I would sure
> > *** like to see no bubbles at all in the lines at any time,
> > *** what am I overlooking.......thoughts?
> > ***
> > *** Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
> > ***
> > ***
> > *** A trick which was shown to me by an old A&P: get a hardware store
> > *** pressure oil can and some 1/4 OD plastic tube. Attach the
> > *** can (full of
> > *** brake juice) with the tube to the brake bleeder screw.
> > *** Attach a fitting
> > *** w/ another tube to the reservoir, and run the tube into a
> > *** jar. Open the
> > *** bleed screw and pump the oil can until the fluid comes out at the
> > *** reservoir end. Keep pumping until you are satisfied the air is out
> > *** (which is easy to check- just tighten the bleed screw and
> > *** try the brakes
> > *** w/out disconnecting the apparatus.) Easy to do, and
> > *** requires only one
> > *** person. Just check the overflow jar once in a while, and
> > *** don't let the
> > *** oil can run dry.
> > ***
> > *** Jeff Point
> > *** RV-6 14 hours
> > *** Milwaukee
> > ***
> > ***
> > ***
> > *** ---------------------------------
> > ***
> > ***
> > *** =============
> > *** Matronics Forums.
> > *** =============
> > *** =============
> > *** =============
> > ***
> > ***
> > ***
> > ***
> > ***
> > ***
> > ***
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Engine overhaul? |
Dave,
My friend and instructor had his Warrior overhauled by:
Kline Aviation
8725 Crego Rd.
Brooklyn MI 49230
517-592-2316
He has done several engines around here and everyone has been happy with his
work.
Dan Hopper
Near Peru, IN
RV-7A (almost done)
In a message dated 4/13/04 9:35:11 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
ddurakovich(at)yahoo.com writes:
>
>
> Getting ready to redo a Lyc. O-360 for an RV-4, and would like local (or
> thereabouts)
> folks to work with if possible. I'm in Detroit, and I consider most of
> the mid-west as well as Western NY and PA as local.
>
> Pretty much going to do it all, and prefer to do it myself
> (disassembly/asembly/maybe
> the accessories), so any reccomendations for bottom end, case, and cylinder
> guys would be appreciated.
>
> I've already talked to G&N about doing a bottom end only and they politely
> declined - an insurance thing.
>
> Anyone know anything about Harrison Engine Service in LaPorte, IN?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave Durakovich
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
Subject: | Re: Bleeding brakes |
...ah you are correct!
----- Original Message -----
From: Cy Galley <cgalley(at)QCBC.ORG>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
>
> You can't use any of them as the threads are METRIC not SAE!
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
>
>
> >
> > Mike,
> >
> > That's looks GREAT. But I don't know which one to order... they
don't
> > list my RV-4.
> >
> > Chuck
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Mike Nellis <mike(at)bmnellis.com>
> > To:
> > Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Here's something that might work for one person brake bleeding. At
> $10/ea
> > > it might be an interesting investment.
> > > http://www.cyclebrakes.com/Accessories.htm middle of the page.
> > >
> > > Mike Nellis
> > > RV-6 Fuselage N699BM
> > > 1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K
> > > http://bmnellis.com
> > >
> > > *** -----Original Message-----
> > > *** From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > > *** [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Galati
> > > *** Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 7:27 AM
> > > *** To: jpoint(at)mindspring.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > > *** Subject: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
> > > ***
> > > ***
> > > ***
> > > *** Jeff,
> > > ***
> > > *** I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the
> > > *** same procedure you outlined using a dedicated ACT
> > > *** pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the reservoir fluid
> > > *** to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to
> > > *** a week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear
> > > *** and collect at the high point in the loops of the dual
> > > *** brake line system no matter what I do. Both left and right
> > > *** brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes during
> > > *** the bleeding process, l've used relatively high pressure,
> > > *** low pressure, but always making sure the lines and overflow
> > > *** are absolutely bubble free before I stop the process. Sure
> > > *** enough, after a period of time passes, usually after
> > > *** several days, the bubbles reappear. The brakes *seem* okay
> > > *** when I depress them, the bubbles merely migrate a bit when
> > > *** I depress the petals, but I have no way to judge brake
> > > *** effectiveness until real world taxi tests. I would sure
> > > *** like to see no bubbles at all in the lines at any time,
> > > *** what am I overlooking.......thoughts?
> > > ***
> > > *** Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
> > > ***
> > > ***
> > > *** A trick which was shown to me by an old A&P: get a hardware store
> > > *** pressure oil can and some 1/4 OD plastic tube. Attach the
> > > *** can (full of
> > > *** brake juice) with the tube to the brake bleeder screw.
> > > *** Attach a fitting
> > > *** w/ another tube to the reservoir, and run the tube into a
> > > *** jar. Open the
> > > *** bleed screw and pump the oil can until the fluid comes out at the
> > > *** reservoir end. Keep pumping until you are satisfied the air is
out
> > > *** (which is easy to check- just tighten the bleed screw and
> > > *** try the brakes
> > > *** w/out disconnecting the apparatus.) Easy to do, and
> > > *** requires only one
> > > *** person. Just check the overflow jar once in a while, and
> > > *** don't let the
> > > *** oil can run dry.
> > > ***
> > > *** Jeff Point
> > > *** RV-6 14 hours
> > > *** Milwaukee
> > > ***
> > > ***
> > > ***
> > > *** ---------------------------------
> > > ***
> > > ***
> > > *** =============
> > > *** Matronics Forums.
> > > *** =============
> > > *** =============
> > > *** =============
> > > ***
> > > ***
> > > ***
> > > ***
> > > ***
> > > ***
> > > ***
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Bleeding brakes |
Rick,
If the bubbles reappear, you may be pumping air into the system with a leaky
pump.
If you can use higher pressure and make the fluid flow faster, I would think
that you could push the air into the reservoir and not have it reappear. Put
a line on the reservoir to catch all that fluid! You need to get that air
out, or the right side brakes won't work right.
Another idea is to raise the right wing as much as possible to avoid downhill
runs of fluid while you're pumping fluid in.
I think the problem is that the lines are 1/4 inch. Smaller lines would work
fine and would not allow the fluid to pass under the air at the high points
like the large lines do. Most cars use 3/16 brake lines. Smaller lines also
can also handle higher pressure at the same wall thickness.
I was off base when I suggested lowering the high points. I will probably
have the same problem when I try to bleed mine.
There's some more ideas. Hope something helps.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (almost done and headed to S-n-F tomorrow my RV-wanna-be a Grumman
AA1-C)
In a message dated 4/13/04 7:30:04 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
rick6a(at)yahoo.com writes:
>
>
> Jeff,
>
> I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the same procedure you
> outlined using a dedicated ACT pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the
> reservoir fluid to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to a
> week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear and collect at the high
> point in the loops of the dual brake line system no matter what I do. Both
> left and right brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes during the
> bleeding process, l've used relatively high pressure, low pressure, but always
> making sure the lines and overflow are absolutely bubble free before I stop
> the process. Sure enough, after a period of time passes, usually after
> several days, the bubbles reappear. The brakes *seem* okay when I depress them,
> the bubbles merely migrate a bit when I depress the petals, but I have no way
> to judge brake effectiveness until real world taxi tests. I would sure like
> to see no bubbles at all in the lines at any time, what am I
> overlooking.......thoughts?
>
> Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
Travis Hamblen wrote:
>
>I am about to have my prop refinished and wanted some input from guys who
>have wood props. I have seen many props with the back of the prop painted
>black, is there a reason for this? Mine is just stained like the front and
>I don=92t have any visibility problems. Does this enhance the visibility
>through the prop in night flight or any other time, or maybe is it just for
>looks? Any other tips or things to ask for when I have the prop refinished
>would be greatly appreciated. This will be my first refinish of a wood prop
>so I want to get the best job done. The prop is an Ed Sterba prop (68x76 on
>my RV-6A w/ O-320) and it is a GREAT prop, it is pitched just right and I
>have not one complaint other than I can=92t fly it in the rain! I will be
>having Jeff at Props Inc doing the refinish, and I have heard good things
>about his service. Any input is VERY appreciated.
>
>
>Travis
>
>RV-6A @ VGT 335 hrs
>
>
>
If you ever try to land with the sun at your back in the late afternoon
you well see why the back of the prop
is painted black. It is like a big mirror.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard McCraw" <rmccraw(at)wcvt.com> |
Subject: | Engine overhaul? |
Penn Yan Aero in upstate New York (KPEO) has been in business for a long
time and has a good reputation in these parts. I've met the owner and came
away with a positive impression
Rick
RV-7, empennage in the box
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Bleeding brakes |
Rick,
I had another bright(?) idea. Take the bottom bolts out of the right side
master cylinders and tip them up while bleeding. Wouldn't this eliminate the
downhill run?
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (almost done)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com> |
that is what they told me at the booth today
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Shemp
Subject: RV-List: No RV-10 at SnF
I just heard from a friend down there that Tom Green said the 10 had some
problems on the way down and wont make the airshow. Something about a door
latch maybe.....
Jeff
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Subject: | Re: Bleeding brakes |
Has anyone tried the all-in-one matco brakes, the MC5? No remote or
external reservoir needed.
http://www.chiefaircraft.com/cgi-bin/frame/frame-aircraft.cgi?URL=/Aircr
aft/Brakes/MasterCylinders.html
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: C. Rabaut [mailto:crabaut(at)coalinga.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 6:23 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
>
>
>
> I dis-agree.
> It seems to me that the motorcycle hydraulic brakes system is
> set up almost identical to our system, especially those of us
> who have installed the reservoir on the master cylinder.
>
> Chuck
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Cy Galley <cgalley(at)QCBC.ORG>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
>
>
> >
> > Unfortunately, those check ball bleeder screws are set up to pump
> > fluid
> out
> > of the wheel cylinder top by pressure from the master cylinder.
> >
> > Aircraft bleeder valves on the other hand are installed in
> the bottom
> > of
> the
> > cylinder and the fluid must be pumped in the opposite
> direction into
> > the bottom up thru the master cylinder.
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com>
> > To:
> > Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Here's something that might work for one person brake
> bleeding. At
> $10/ea
> > > it might be an interesting investment.
> > > http://www.cyclebrakes.com/Accessories.htm middle of the page.
> > >
> > > Mike Nellis
> > > RV-6 Fuselage N699BM
> > > 1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K
> > > http://bmnellis.com
> > >
> > > *** -----Original Message-----
> > > *** From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > > *** [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
> > > Galati
> > > *** Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 7:27 AM
> > > *** To: jpoint(at)mindspring.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > > *** Subject: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
> > > ***
> > > ***
> > > ***
> > > *** Jeff,
> > > ***
> > > *** I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the
> > > *** same procedure you outlined using a dedicated ACT
> > > *** pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the reservoir fluid
> > > *** to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to
> > > *** a week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear
> > > *** and collect at the high point in the loops of the dual
> > > *** brake line system no matter what I do. Both left and right
> > > *** brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes during
> > > *** the bleeding process, l've used relatively high pressure,
> > > *** low pressure, but always making sure the lines and overflow
> > > *** are absolutely bubble free before I stop the process. Sure
> > > *** enough, after a period of time passes, usually after
> > > *** several days, the bubbles reappear. The brakes *seem* okay
> > > *** when I depress them, the bubbles merely migrate a bit when
> > > *** I depress the petals, but I have no way to judge brake
> > > *** effectiveness until real world taxi tests. I would sure
> > > *** like to see no bubbles at all in the lines at any time,
> > > *** what am I overlooking.......thoughts?
> > > ***
> > > *** Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
> > > ***
> > > ***
> > > *** A trick which was shown to me by an old A&P: get a
> hardware store
> > > *** pressure oil can and some 1/4 OD plastic tube. Attach the
> > > *** can (full of
> > > *** brake juice) with the tube to the brake bleeder screw.
> > > *** Attach a fitting
> > > *** w/ another tube to the reservoir, and run the tube into a
> > > *** jar. Open the
> > > *** bleed screw and pump the oil can until the fluid
> comes out at the
> > > *** reservoir end. Keep pumping until you are satisfied
> the air is out
> > > *** (which is easy to check- just tighten the bleed screw and
> > > *** try the brakes
> > > *** w/out disconnecting the apparatus.) Easy to do, and
> > > *** requires only one
> > > *** person. Just check the overflow jar once in a while, and
> > > *** don't let the
> > > *** oil can run dry.
> > > ***
> > > *** Jeff Point
> > > *** RV-6 14 hours
> > > *** Milwaukee
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com> |
"vansairforce"
Subject: | Cylinder Work... |
Any recommendations on where to send my cylinders?
I need an exhaust port welded on one, new exhaust guides in 3, seats ground and
a light hone on all 4...
Oh, and did I mention I'm on a budget? ;)
Thanks!
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A - Colorado
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Finn Lassen <finn.lassen(at)verizon.net> |
Subject: | Re: No RV-10 at SnF |
You mean you can't use the doors in the RV-10 as extra wings? :)
Finn
Shemp wrote:
>
>I just heard from a friend down there that Tom Green said the 10 had some problems
on the way down and wont make the airshow. Something about a door latch
maybe.....
>
>Jeff
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SCOTT MORGAN <sdmorgan(at)prodigy.net> |
Subject: | Re: Cylinder Work... |
Gibson Aviation
El Reno OK
The have an ad in TAP every month. I have sent cyls over the years.
Very reputable shop with integrity.
Ask for Marshall.
Regards,
Scott
--- Bill VonDane wrote:
>
> Any recommendations on where to send my cylinders?
>
> I need an exhaust port welded on one, new exhaust guides in 3, seats
> ground and a light hone on all 4...
>
> Oh, and did I mention I'm on a budget? ;)
>
> Thanks!
>
> -Bill VonDane
> RV-8A - Colorado
> www.vondane.com
> www.creativair.com
> www.epanelbuilder.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu> |
Subject: | Re: No RV-10 at SnF |
Shemp wrote:
>
>I just heard from a friend down there that Tom Green said the 10 had some problems
on the way down and wont make the airshow. Something about a door latch
maybe.....
>
>Jeff
>
>
>
They told me the same thing when I asked at the Van's booth.
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill Thayer School of Engineering
Assoc. Director of Technical Services 8000 Cummings Hall
deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu - N1JOV Dartmouth College,Hanover,NH 03755
"On the side of the software box, in the 'System Requirements' section,
it said 'Requires Windows 95 or better'. So I installed Linux." -Anonymous
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
Subject: | Re: Bleeding brakes |
It shouldn't matter should it? The spring hold the check ball in place so
why would the orientation matter? Do you think the air would be reluctant
to release with the bleeder pointed down? Is that why it's recommended to
use the oil can method? Haven't done it on an RV yet so I don't have any
experience.
*** -----Original Message-----
*** From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
*** [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Cy Galley
*** Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 5:10 PM
*** To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
*** Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
***
***
***
*** Unfortunately, those check ball bleeder screws are set up
*** to pump fluid out of the wheel cylinder top by pressure
*** from the master cylinder.
***
*** Aircraft bleeder valves on the other hand are installed in
*** the bottom of the cylinder and the fluid must be pumped in
*** the opposite direction into the bottom up thru the master cylinder.
***
***
*** ----- Original Message -----
*** From: "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com>
*** To:
*** Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
***
***
*** >
*** > Here's something that might work for one person brake
*** bleeding. At
*** > $10/ea it might be an interesting investment.
*** > http://www.cyclebrakes.com/Accessories.htm middle of the page.
*** >
*** > Mike Nellis
*** > RV-6 Fuselage N699BM
*** > 1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K
*** > http://bmnellis.com
*** >
*** > *** -----Original Message-----
*** > *** From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
*** > *** [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
*** > Galati
*** > *** Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 7:27 AM
*** > *** To: jpoint(at)mindspring.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com
*** > *** Subject: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
*** > ***
*** > ***
*** > ***
*** > *** Jeff,
*** > ***
*** > *** I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the
*** > *** same procedure you outlined using a dedicated ACT
*** > *** pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the reservoir fluid
*** > *** to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to
*** > *** a week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear
*** > *** and collect at the high point in the loops of the dual
*** > *** brake line system no matter what I do. Both left and right
*** > *** brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes during
*** > *** the bleeding process, l've used relatively high pressure,
*** > *** low pressure, but always making sure the lines and overflow
*** > *** are absolutely bubble free before I stop the process. Sure
*** > *** enough, after a period of time passes, usually after
*** > *** several days, the bubbles reappear. The brakes *seem* okay
*** > *** when I depress them, the bubbles merely migrate a bit when
*** > *** I depress the petals, but I have no way to judge brake
*** > *** effectiveness until real world taxi tests. I would sure
*** > *** like to see no bubbles at all in the lines at any time,
*** > *** what am I overlooking.......thoughts?
*** > ***
*** > *** Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
*** > ***
*** > ***
*** > *** A trick which was shown to me by an old A&P: get a
*** hardware store
*** > *** pressure oil can and some 1/4 OD plastic tube. Attach the
*** > *** can (full of
*** > *** brake juice) with the tube to the brake bleeder screw.
*** > *** Attach a fitting
*** > *** w/ another tube to the reservoir, and run the tube into a
*** > *** jar. Open the
*** > *** bleed screw and pump the oil can until the fluid
*** comes out at the
*** > *** reservoir end. Keep pumping until you are satisfied
*** the air is out
*** > *** (which is easy to check- just tighten the bleed screw and
*** > *** try the brakes
*** > *** w/out disconnecting the apparatus.) Easy to do, and
*** > *** requires only one
*** > *** person. Just check the overflow jar once in a while, and
*** > *** don't let the
*** > *** oil can run dry.
*** > ***
*** > *** Jeff Point
*** > *** RV-6 14 hours
*** > *** Milwaukee
*** > ***
*** > ***
*** > ***
*** > *** ---------------------------------
*** > ***
*** > ***
*** > *** =============
*** > *** Matronics Forums.
*** > *** =============
*** > *** =============
*** > *** =============
*** > ***
*** > ***
*** > ***
*** > ***
*** > ***
*** > ***
*** > ***
*** >
*** >
***
***
*** =============
*** Matronics Forums.
*** =============
*** =============
*** =============
***
***
***
***
***
***
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
Subject: | Re: Bleeding brakes |
No THAT makes sense. :) It's touch to put a square peg in a round hole.
Thanks Cy.
Mike Nellis
RV-6 Fuselage N699BM
1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K
http://bmnellis.com
***
*** You can't use any of them as the threads are METRIC not SAE!
***
*** ----- Original Message -----
*** From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com>
*** To:
*** Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
***
***
*** >
*** > Mike,
*** >
*** > That's looks GREAT. But I don't know which one to
*** order... they
*** > don't list my RV-4.
*** >
*** > Chuck
*** >
*** > ----- Original Message -----
*** > From: Mike Nellis <mike(at)bmnellis.com>
*** > To:
*** > Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
*** >
*** >
*** > >
*** > > Here's something that might work for one person brake
*** bleeding. At
*** $10/ea
*** > > it might be an interesting investment.
*** > > http://www.cyclebrakes.com/Accessories.htm middle of the page.
*** > >
*** > > Mike Nellis
*** > > RV-6 Fuselage N699BM
*** > > 1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K
*** > > http://bmnellis.com
*** > >
*** > > *** -----Original Message-----
*** > > *** From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
*** > > *** [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
*** Behalf Of Rick
*** > > Galati
*** > > *** Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 7:27 AM
*** > > *** To: jpoint(at)mindspring.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com
*** > > *** Subject: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
*** > > ***
*** > > ***
***
*** > > ***
*** > > *** Jeff,
*** > > ***
*** > > *** I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the
*** > > *** same procedure you outlined using a dedicated ACT
*** > > *** pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the reservoir fluid
*** > > *** to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to
*** > > *** a week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear
*** > > *** and collect at the high point in the loops of the dual
*** > > *** brake line system no matter what I do. Both left and right
*** > > *** brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes during
*** > > *** the bleeding process, l've used relatively high pressure,
*** > > *** low pressure, but always making sure the lines and overflow
*** > > *** are absolutely bubble free before I stop the process. Sure
*** > > *** enough, after a period of time passes, usually after
*** > > *** several days, the bubbles reappear. The brakes *seem* okay
*** > > *** when I depress them, the bubbles merely migrate a bit when
*** > > *** I depress the petals, but I have no way to judge brake
*** > > *** effectiveness until real world taxi tests. I would sure
*** > > *** like to see no bubbles at all in the lines at any time,
*** > > *** what am I overlooking.......thoughts?
*** > > ***
*** > > *** Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
*** > > ***
*** > > ***
*** > > *** A trick which was shown to me by an old A&P: get a
*** hardware store
*** > > *** pressure oil can and some 1/4 OD plastic tube. Attach the
*** > > *** can (full of
*** > > *** brake juice) with the tube to the brake bleeder screw.
*** > > *** Attach a fitting
*** > > *** w/ another tube to the reservoir, and run the tube into a
*** > > *** jar. Open the
*** > > *** bleed screw and pump the oil can until the fluid
*** comes out at the
*** > > *** reservoir end. Keep pumping until you are
*** satisfied the air is out
*** > > *** (which is easy to check- just tighten the bleed screw and
*** > > *** try the brakes
*** > > *** w/out disconnecting the apparatus.) Easy to do, and
*** > > *** requires only one
*** > > *** person. Just check the overflow jar once in a while, and
*** > > *** don't let the
*** > > *** oil can run dry.
*** > > ***
*** > > *** Jeff Point
*** > > *** RV-6 14 hours
*** > > *** Milwaukee
*** > > ***
*** > > ***
*** > > ***
*** > > *** ---------------------------------
*** > > ***
*** > > ***
*** > > *** =============
*** > > *** Matronics Forums.
*** > > *** =============
*** > > *** =============
*** > > *** =============
*** > > ***
*** > > ***
*** > > ***
*** > > ***
*** > > ***
*** > > ***
*** > > ***
*** > >
*** > >
*** >
*** >
***
***
*** =============
*** Matronics Forums.
*** =============
*** =============
*** =============
***
***
***
***
***
***
***
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | S & F Fuel Stop? |
Heading to S & F tonight.
Can anyone recommend a fuel stop/camping around Waycross, GA (AYS)?
ERic--
GodSpeed Aviation
RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)QCBC.ORG> |
Subject: | Re: Bleeding brakes |
First and foremost these "plugs" are METRIC. They won't fit your aircraft
brakes.
Second, they are designed to let out the air under pressure from the master
cylinder.
Third, because of the longer vertical rise of aircraft systems, most fill
and bleed from the wheel cylinder up.
Fourth, There are two locations for fittings. Generally the bottom is the
valve or plug, the top the brake line. As air rises in the brake fluid, the
air has to be forced out the top. If you reverse the positions, (tapped
hole is the same) you will trap air in the brake line instead of the wheel
cylinder. As it is, forcing the brake fluid up pushes the air up into the
large master cylinder reservoir.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or sportpilot(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
>
> It shouldn't matter should it? The spring hold the check ball in place so
> why would the orientation matter? Do you think the air would be reluctant
> to release with the bleeder pointed down? Is that why it's recommended to
> use the oil can method? Haven't done it on an RV yet so I don't have any
> experience.
>
> *** -----Original Message-----
> *** From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> *** [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Cy Galley
> *** Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 5:10 PM
> *** To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> *** Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
> ***
> ***
> ***
> *** Unfortunately, those check ball bleeder screws are set up
> *** to pump fluid out of the wheel cylinder top by pressure
> *** from the master cylinder.
> ***
> *** Aircraft bleeder valves on the other hand are installed in
> *** the bottom of the cylinder and the fluid must be pumped in
> *** the opposite direction into the bottom up thru the master cylinder.
> ***
> ***
> *** ----- Original Message -----
> *** From: "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com>
> *** To:
> *** Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
> ***
> ***
> *** >
> *** > Here's something that might work for one person brake
> *** bleeding. At
> *** > $10/ea it might be an interesting investment.
> *** > http://www.cyclebrakes.com/Accessories.htm middle of the page.
> *** >
> *** > Mike Nellis
> *** > RV-6 Fuselage N699BM
> *** > 1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K
> *** > http://bmnellis.com
> *** >
> *** > *** -----Original Message-----
> *** > *** From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> *** > *** [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
> *** > Galati
> *** > *** Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 7:27 AM
> *** > *** To: jpoint(at)mindspring.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com
> *** > *** Subject: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
> *** > ***
> *** > ***
> *** > ***
> *** > *** Jeff,
> *** > ***
> *** > *** I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the
> *** > *** same procedure you outlined using a dedicated ACT
> *** > *** pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the reservoir fluid
> *** > *** to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to
> *** > *** a week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear
> *** > *** and collect at the high point in the loops of the dual
> *** > *** brake line system no matter what I do. Both left and right
> *** > *** brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes during
> *** > *** the bleeding process, l've used relatively high pressure,
> *** > *** low pressure, but always making sure the lines and overflow
> *** > *** are absolutely bubble free before I stop the process. Sure
> *** > *** enough, after a period of time passes, usually after
> *** > *** several days, the bubbles reappear. The brakes *seem* okay
> *** > *** when I depress them, the bubbles merely migrate a bit when
> *** > *** I depress the petals, but I have no way to judge brake
> *** > *** effectiveness until real world taxi tests. I would sure
> *** > *** like to see no bubbles at all in the lines at any time,
> *** > *** what am I overlooking.......thoughts?
> *** > ***
> *** > *** Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
> *** > ***
> *** > ***
> *** > *** A trick which was shown to me by an old A&P: get a
> *** hardware store
> *** > *** pressure oil can and some 1/4 OD plastic tube. Attach the
> *** > *** can (full of
> *** > *** brake juice) with the tube to the brake bleeder screw.
> *** > *** Attach a fitting
> *** > *** w/ another tube to the reservoir, and run the tube into a
> *** > *** jar. Open the
> *** > *** bleed screw and pump the oil can until the fluid
> *** comes out at the
> *** > *** reservoir end. Keep pumping until you are satisfied
> *** the air is out
> *** > *** (which is easy to check- just tighten the bleed screw and
> *** > *** try the brakes
> *** > *** w/out disconnecting the apparatus.) Easy to do, and
> *** > *** requires only one
> *** > *** person. Just check the overflow jar once in a while, and
> *** > *** don't let the
> *** > *** oil can run dry.
> *** > ***
> *** > *** Jeff Point
> *** > *** RV-6 14 hours
> *** > *** Milwaukee
> *** > ***
> *** > ***
> *** > ***
> *** > *** ---------------------------------
> *** > ***
> *** > ***
> *** > *** =============
> *** > *** Matronics Forums.
> *** > *** =============
> *** > *** =============
> *** > *** =============
> *** > ***
> *** > ***
> *** > ***
> *** > ***
> *** > ***
> *** > ***
> *** > ***
> *** >
> *** >
> ***
> ***
> *** =============
> *** Matronics Forums.
> *** =============
> *** =============
> *** =============
> ***
> ***
> ***
> ***
> ***
> ***
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ken Brooks" <kenbrooks(at)charter.net> |
Subject: | Re: Brake Reservoir |
While I am not yet flying <8-( , I solved the brake reservoir:firewall
clearance problem by putting a blue 90 degree fitting on the master cylinder
and then attached the individual reservoir directly to the fitting. The
reservoirs are thus closer together for ease of bleeding, and clearance with
the firewall was improved. I get significant brake pedal deflection prior
to firewall contact in the last (most forward) hole on the adjustable rudder
pedal slide tube. Even then, it is the top of the brake pedal and not the
reservoir itself that makes contact. A narrow strip of protective rubber at
this contact point should scratch-proof the firewall. With well-bled
brakes, I suspect that braking begins with very little toe-pedal deflection.
Hopefully, my theory will prove correct upon ground/flight testing. Photo
available on request if you respond privately.
Ken Brooks
Roscoe, IL
RV-8 Eng & Elec
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Pat Perry" <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Bleeding brakes |
I've been fighting the same issue in my RV-4. The original bleed out worked
great and I had no air at all in the system. During the fly-off time I had
a brake line problem that required the left line to be refit. From that
point on I could not get the small air bubble out of the high point. This
did cause some additional softness in the pedal but only noticeable while
the other was still air free. I have since made a routing change to the
right side and subsequently got a small amount of air in the right side that
won't bleed out.
Both sides are even and the brakes are firm and responsive enough. I was
planning on adding a brass coupling with a bleeder tap to the high point on
both sides during the next annual to allow for future bleeding.
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 N154PK Flies great!
>From: Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: jpoint(at)mindspring.com, rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
>Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2004 05:27:24 -0700 (PDT)
>
>
>Jeff,
>
>I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the same procedure you
>outlined using a dedicated ACT pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the
>reservoir fluid to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to
>a week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear and collect at the
>high point in the loops of the dual brake line system no matter what I do.
>Both left and right brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes
>during the bleeding process, l've used relatively high pressure, low
>pressure, but always making sure the lines and overflow are absolutely
>bubble free before I stop the process. Sure enough, after a period of time
>passes, usually after several days, the bubbles reappear. The brakes
>*seem* okay when I depress them, the bubbles merely migrate a bit when I
>depress the petals, but I have no way to judge brake effectiveness until
>real world taxi tests. I would sure like to see no bubbles at all in the
>lines at any time, what am I
> overlooking.......thoughts?
>
>Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
>
>
>A trick which was shown to me by an old A&P: get a hardware store
>pressure oil can and some 1/4 OD plastic tube. Attach the can (full of
>brake juice) with the tube to the brake bleeder screw. Attach a fitting
>w/ another tube to the reservoir, and run the tube into a jar. Open the
>bleed screw and pump the oil can until the fluid comes out at the
>reservoir end. Keep pumping until you are satisfied the air is out
>(which is easy to check- just tighten the bleed screw and try the brakes
>w/out disconnecting the apparatus.) Easy to do, and requires only one
>person. Just check the overflow jar once in a while, and don't let the
>oil can run dry.
>
>Jeff Point
>RV-6 14 hours
>Milwaukee
>
>
>---------------------------------
>
>
Tax headache? MSN Money provides relief with tax tips, tools, IRS forms and
more! http://moneycentral.msn.com/tax/workshop/welcome.asp
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
Subject: | Re: Cylinder Work... |
rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com, vansairforce
Anyone ever heard of these guys? ...have anything good or bad to say about them?
http://www.dongeorgeaircraft.com/cylinder.htm
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill VonDane
Subject: Cylinder Work...
Any recommendations on where to send my cylinders?
I need an exhaust port welded on one, new exhaust guides in 3, seats ground and
a light hone on all 4...
Oh, and did I mention I'm on a budget? ;)
Thanks!
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A - Colorado
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | STS Loran Manual Needed |
OhioValleyRVators(at)yahoogroups.com, ExperimentalAvionics(at)yahoogroups.com
I have an STS Loran, 120 MC that I don't have a manual for. Does anyone have
one I could borrow long enough to make a copy? I'll pay for all postage. STS
is out of business and of no help. Thanks in advance for your help.
Pat Long
PGLong(at)aol.com
N120PL
RV4 Ready to paint
Bay City, Michigan
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
Subject: | Re: Cylinder Work... |
rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com, vansairforce
Anyone have any idea how much a cylinder weighs??
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill VonDane
Subject: Re: Cylinder Work...
Anyone ever heard of these guys? ...have anything good or bad to say about them?
http://www.dongeorgeaircraft.com/cylinder.htm
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill VonDane
Subject: Cylinder Work...
Any recommendations on where to send my cylinders?
I need an exhaust port welded on one, new exhaust guides in 3, seats ground and
a light hone on all 4...
Oh, and did I mention I'm on a budget? ;)
Thanks!
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A - Colorado
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mickey & Paula" <mimartin(at)sweetwaterhsa.com> |
I'd like to relate a story about an RV6A pilot on his way from Oregon to the Sun
& Fun Fly-in, who landed at our airport on Tuesday April 14, 2004. Seems he
had problems with the alternator on his RV6A and made an unplanned stop here
in Rock Springs WY to do repairs.
A friend at the airport saw his predicament and called me since I am building
an RV6. I went to the airport with my new still in the box alternator expecting
to offer it to him as a courtesy to a fellow RV builder. Turns out it was
only a connector that he needed. When I arrived at the airport and approached
the gentleman, he immediately started talking about how the residents of Rock
Springs couldn't be smart enough to finish high school. All attempts to speak
with this gentleman were met with rude replies. After listening to a few of
his curt replies to our attempt at conversation, I knew I wouldn't be offering
him any of my parts and walked away.
I now have a new respect for Van's Aircraft for the courtesy I always receive
every time I speak to them on the phone either with a question or to place an
order. How they keep their pleasant manner after dealing with people like this
guy amazes me.
Sincerely,
Mickey Martin
RV6 builder
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)excelgeo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Bleeding brakes |
If the dual brake setup is plumbed as per Van's drawings the fluid path
is; Fluid Reservoir - PAX master cylinders - Pilot master cylinders -
brakes. If the bubbles reside between the line between the Pax and Pilot
master cylinders then the pilots side is not effected by the bubbles as
they are on the supply side of the cylinder. They do effect the Pax side
since the bubbles are between the master and slave cylinders and thus
create a spongy pedal.
Gary Zilik
GMC wrote:
>
>
>
>
>>I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the same procedure
>>
>>
>you
>
>
>>outlined using a dedicated ACT pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the
>>reservoir fluid to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to
>>
>>
>a
>
>
>>week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear and collect at the
>>
>>
>high
>
>
>>point in the loops of the dual brake line system no matter what I do.
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>>Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
>>
>>
>>
>
>Relax Gents
>
>Dual brakes on my 6A. During first filling I had no bubbles, then when
>drained for servicing and subsequent refill there was no way to eliminate
>the bubbles. I believe that is due to the slippery residue inside the lines,
>the brake fluid goes around the bubbles leaving them at the high spots.
>
>I tried regular oil can filling, pressure pot refilling from bottom and also
>tried a vacuum pump at reservoir with suction filling from below, no way
>could I eliminate seeing bubbles in brake line. Maybe I should paint the
>lines black to avoid seeing bubbles!
>
>Anyway my brakes have operated satisfactorily with bubbles at the high spots
>for 260+ hrs.
>
>George in Langley
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)excelgeo.com> |
Yeah, you really gotta watch them 6A drivers ;-)
Gary Zilik
RV-6A
Mickey & Paula wrote:
>
>I'd like to relate a story about an RV6A pilot on his way from Oregon to the
Sun & Fun Fly-in, who landed at our airport on Tuesday April 14, 2004. Seems he
had problems with the alternator on his RV6A and made an unplanned stop here
in Rock Springs WY to do repairs.
>
> A friend at the airport saw his predicament and called me since I am building
an RV6. I went to the airport with my new still in the box alternator expecting
to offer it to him as a courtesy to a fellow RV builder. Turns out it was
only a connector that he needed. When I arrived at the airport and approached
the gentleman, he immediately started talking about how the residents of Rock
Springs couldn't be smart enough to finish high school. All attempts to speak
with this gentleman were met with rude replies. After listening to a few of
his curt replies to our attempt at conversation, I knew I wouldn't be offering
him any of my parts and walked away.
>
> I now have a new respect for Van's Aircraft for the courtesy I always receive
every time I speak to them on the phone either with a question or to place an
order. How they keep their pleasant manner after dealing with people like this
guy amazes me.
>
>Sincerely,
>
>Mickey Martin
>
>RV6 builder
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
Mickey,
As a resident of the Portland, Oregon area, and V.P. of Chapter 105, let me
apologize on this fella's behalf. Of course I have no idea who it was, but
there are lots of -6As in our area. Fortunately this kind of behavior is
quite rare, and I hope he wasn't one of ours.
Yours,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 368 hrs, sold
RV-3B, empennage
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mickey & Paula" <mimartin(at)sweetwaterhsa.com>
Subject: RV-List: Rude Pilot
>
> I'd like to relate a story about an RV6A pilot on his way from Oregon to
the Sun & Fun Fly-in, who landed at our airport on Tuesday April 14, 2004.
Seems he had problems with the alternator on his RV6A and made an unplanned
stop here in Rock Springs WY to do repairs.
>
> A friend at the airport saw his predicament and called me since I am
building an RV6. I went to the airport with my new still in the box
alternator expecting to offer it to him as a courtesy to a fellow RV
builder. Turns out it was only a connector that he needed. When I arrived
at the airport and approached the gentleman, he immediately started talking
about how the residents of Rock Springs couldn't be smart enough to finish
high school. All attempts to speak with this gentleman were met with rude
replies. After listening to a few of his curt replies to our attempt at
conversation, I knew I wouldn't be offering him any of my parts and walked
away.
>
> I now have a new respect for Van's Aircraft for the courtesy I always
receive every time I speak to them on the phone either with a question or to
place an order. How they keep their pleasant manner after dealing with
people like this guy amazes me.
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Mickey Martin
>
> RV6 builder
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tim Coldenhoff <rv9a_000(at)deru.com> |
Subject: | Inaccurate trim servo indicator |
My aileron trim indicator seems to be grossly inaccurate.
When the servo is centered, the RP3 LED indicator shows the
second LED from the right lit. Also, the rate of change for
the LEDs is very non-linear with respect to the actual servo
position.
I swapped the elevator and aileron indicators and saw the same
thing, so it must be the servo's internal position sensor that
is a tad flaky.
Anybody else seen this problem?
--
Tim Coldenhoff
www.deru.com/~rv9a
90338 - electrical/finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dr. Kevin P. Leathers" <DrLeathers(at)822heal.com> |
Hi Randy,
May I ask why you sold an 8 to build a 3?
Doc
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rude Pilot
>
> Mickey,
>
> As a resident of the Portland, Oregon area, and V.P. of Chapter 105, let
me
> apologize on this fella's behalf. Of course I have no idea who it was, but
> there are lots of -6As in our area. Fortunately this kind of behavior is
> quite rare, and I hope he wasn't one of ours.
>
> Yours,
> Randy Lervold
> RV-8, 368 hrs, sold
> RV-3B, empennage
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mickey & Paula" <mimartin(at)sweetwaterhsa.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Rude Pilot
>
>
>
> >
> > I'd like to relate a story about an RV6A pilot on his way from Oregon
to
> the Sun & Fun Fly-in, who landed at our airport on Tuesday April 14, 2004.
> Seems he had problems with the alternator on his RV6A and made an
unplanned
> stop here in Rock Springs WY to do repairs.
> >
> > A friend at the airport saw his predicament and called me since I am
> building an RV6. I went to the airport with my new still in the box
> alternator expecting to offer it to him as a courtesy to a fellow RV
> builder. Turns out it was only a connector that he needed. When I arrived
> at the airport and approached the gentleman, he immediately started
talking
> about how the residents of Rock Springs couldn't be smart enough to finish
> high school. All attempts to speak with this gentleman were met with rude
> replies. After listening to a few of his curt replies to our attempt at
> conversation, I knew I wouldn't be offering him any of my parts and walked
> away.
> >
> > I now have a new respect for Van's Aircraft for the courtesy I always
> receive every time I speak to them on the phone either with a question or
to
> place an order. How they keep their pleasant manner after dealing with
> people like this guy amazes me.
> >
> > Sincerely,
> >
> > Mickey Martin
> >
> > RV6 builder
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
bleeding brakes downhill is harder but it can be done. Done it hundreds of
times both ways. If its a tall system then it isn't very easy though.
I have gotten the bubble out many times but it would then reappear after
acro. It would eventually get big enough to make the right seat MCs fail
I finally replaced the MC upper orings on the left seat side and the problem
went away.
I don't know how it can leak air in but no fluid out????
Some things just aren't ex-plane-able.
I have no idea why you would want to climb into the wheel well to sevice the
fluid level though. That would suck. The remote reservior is a very nice
feature compared to that.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
Subject: | Re: Bleeding brakes |
If you insist on using them, better would be to get the ones that fit.
I received this email answer from the originally referenced source:
We can get them but they are not currently in stock, for HD they are either
1/4x28 for older models and 3/8x24 for newer.
To complete your order we will need...
ORDER INFORMATION:
Bike Info and parts desired.
Name & Phone Number
Credit Card Number (Visa/MC)
Shipping address and Billing address (where Card statements are sent) must
be the same.
This quote is good for two weeks. We make every attempt to ship same day and
we're located in southern California. You may call toll-free 1-800-805-2118,
e-mail, fax, mail, or use pay pal to order. Remember to provide all the
info above including day-time phone.
C.O.D. and Pay Pal customers must ask for complete quote including shipping
charges. C.O.D. is additional $7 charge and must be cashier's check or money
order (no personal checks). Pay Pal must be a "confirmed address", go to
www.paypal.com and use the 'Send Money' tab and enter our account
'sales(at)cyclebrakes.com'.
Thanks for your request,
take care,
Melissa
Phone: (805)671-5010, Toll-free ordering: 1-800-805-2118
Fax: (805) 671-5002
sales(at)cyclebrakes.com
www.cyclebrakes.com
You may have to fib a little (I don't know what their attitude is regarding use
on airplanes) about your "vehicle".
Dick Tasker, RV9A #90573
Cy Galley wrote:
>
>O.K. If you are bound and determined to use an item that is NOT necessary.
>Buy the smallest diameter. Get a NPT plug that fits the casting of the brake
>calipher. Then drill, machine seat for the valve. The tap it for the metric
>threads using the proper metric bottom tap. After you are all done, it is
>still setup for a top down pressure fill. This may or may not easily work.
>
>KISS is better idea so that everyone that ever works on your plane finds the
>simple standard system.
>
>Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
>Editor, EAA Safety Programs
>cgalley(at)qcbc.org or sportpilot(at)eaa.org
>
>Always looking for articles for Sport Pilot
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rick Fogerson" <rickf(at)cableone.net> |
"RV List"
Subject: | HELP! Airflow Performance F.I. & Van's Cowl |
Hi RV-3'ers,
I'm having trouble figuring out the best way to mount the FI so it is most compatible
with Van's cowls and scoops (haven't ordered yet). Sorry for the lengthy
description.
First I tried API's 90 elbow attached to sump and the FI mounted to the elbow in
a horizontal position. API's filtered air system (a Y pipe that lets you choose
ram air or filtered air with a butterfly valve) then mounts to the front of
FI. I would prefer this but the FI with Y pipe is very far forward and the
mixture lever is so low it doesn't appear to me to be workable.
The only other thing I can think to try is mounting the FI directly to the sump
in a vertical position. However, this appears to lead to three choices for installing
the throttle/mixture levers each with their own problems: 1) install
both levers on the left side of the FI (opposite from throttle linkages) with
throttle lever down and mix lever up. 2) same as 1) only mixture lever down but
with the throttle lever outboard an additional 1/2 inch to avoid conflict with
the lever cables. 3) the throttle lever on the linkage side (right) which
still requires an additional offset outboard of about 1/2 inch to avoid conflict
with the linkages.
What has been successful for those installing API fuel injection on an RV-3?
Thanks, Rick Fogerson
RV-3 (last 90%)
Boise, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
Subject: | Re: STS Loran Manual Needed |
Tropic Aero used to sell STS and they may still have the information you are
looking for since they were still doing repairs on these...
http://www.tropicaero.com/index.cfm
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com> |
List,
I'm considering using 1/2" and/or 3/4" .016 or .020
wall aluminum tubing for wing and fuselage wire
conduits in my RV-8. I was considering this over the
plastic conduit that Van's sells for several reasons;
1. It's heat/flame resistant. 2. It offers some
additional shielding. 3. It's still light.
I'm curious what comments people have about this, and
specifically if there's any good reasons why I should
not use thin wall aluminum tube for wire conduits.
Thanks,
Skylor
RV-8 QB
Under Construction
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Pekin" <jpekin(at)hartconstruction.net> |
Subject: | Vertical stabilizer fit to aft bulkhead |
I'm trying to fit the vert stab on my 7 QB
The horiz legs of the longerons and the aft deck project 3/32" aft past
the aft face of the f-712 bulkhead.
Is the aft spar of the VS is supposed to fit flush w/ the 712 bulkhead
and bolt to the up elev stop?
Should I shim the back face of 712 bulkhead? Should I trim the longerons
and aft deck?
Thanks, Jim Pekin
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | GLCole5475(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Wiring Conduits |
I used 2 smaller (5/16) tubing. One for the landing and position lights and
the other for the strobe wires.
I agree with your reasoning about weight and strength of the aluminum instead
of plastic.
That may be too conservative (using two smaller ones), but I don't like the
idea of having that high voltage for the strobes any closer to any other wire
than is necessary.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net> |
Hey Randy...when you get to the tanks on your 3B let me know... I would
enjoy that one :) I had a 3 kit for a while but it was such a basket case I
had to let it go. I ended up with the opposite end of the spectrum in RV
world...RV10
Evan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rude Pilot
>
> Mickey,
>
> As a resident of the Portland, Oregon area, and V.P. of Chapter 105, let
me
> apologize on this fella's behalf. Of course I have no idea who it was, but
> there are lots of -6As in our area. Fortunately this kind of behavior is
> quite rare, and I hope he wasn't one of ours.
>
> Yours,
> Randy Lervold
> RV-8, 368 hrs, sold
> RV-3B, empennage
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mickey & Paula" <mimartin(at)sweetwaterhsa.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Rude Pilot
>
>
>
> >
> > I'd like to relate a story about an RV6A pilot on his way from Oregon
to
> the Sun & Fun Fly-in, who landed at our airport on Tuesday April 14, 2004.
> Seems he had problems with the alternator on his RV6A and made an
unplanned
> stop here in Rock Springs WY to do repairs.
> >
> > A friend at the airport saw his predicament and called me since I am
> building an RV6. I went to the airport with my new still in the box
> alternator expecting to offer it to him as a courtesy to a fellow RV
> builder. Turns out it was only a connector that he needed. When I arrived
> at the airport and approached the gentleman, he immediately started
talking
> about how the residents of Rock Springs couldn't be smart enough to finish
> high school. All attempts to speak with this gentleman were met with rude
> replies. After listening to a few of his curt replies to our attempt at
> conversation, I knew I wouldn't be offering him any of my parts and walked
> away.
> >
> > I now have a new respect for Van's Aircraft for the courtesy I always
> receive every time I speak to them on the phone either with a question or
to
> place an order. How they keep their pleasant manner after dealing with
> people like this guy amazes me.
> >
> > Sincerely,
> >
> > Mickey Martin
> >
> > RV6 builder
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
Subject: | Re: Inaccurate trim servo indicator |
Tim,
There is an adjustment on the indicator that is adjusted for full
deflection - it's mentioned in the installation instructions.
Dave Bristol
EAA Technical Counselor
Tim Coldenhoff wrote:
>
>My aileron trim indicator seems to be grossly inaccurate.
>
>When the servo is centered, the RP3 LED indicator shows the
>second LED from the right lit. Also, the rate of change for
>the LEDs is very non-linear with respect to the actual servo
>position.
>
>I swapped the elevator and aileron indicators and saw the same
>thing, so it must be the servo's internal position sensor that
>is a tad flaky.
>
>Anybody else seen this problem?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "steve dinieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
Subject: | looking for rv6 rudder |
Hangar rash has claimed the rudder on my rv6a. now rather than build a
new rudder (it'll take time from my rv-10 tail assembly) I'd love to buy
an assembled rudder. I'll travel up to several hours from the buffalo NY
area to get it. And I'll throw in lifetime scenic Niagara Falls guided
tours.....
Really I'm begging
Steve DiNieri
221RV
capsteve(at)adelphia.net
716.283.0123
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mark Taylor" <mtaylo17(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Apollo ACU Manuals |
I bought a used ACU that came without any documentation. This is about the
only one you cannot download from Garmin's web site!
If anybody is going to SnF over the next days, and has an owner guide and an
install manual for one, I'd like to borrow it if at all possible. I'll be
there Friday and Saturday.
I am available on Family Band Radio at SnF on channel 7-2, or by cell phone
248 area code, then 722, then 0764...
Thanks in advance!
Mark Taylor
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
Subject: | Re: Apollo ACU Manuals |
It's made by Mid-Continent... http://www.mcico.com
You can download it there.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Taylor" <mtaylo17(at)msn.com>
Subject: RV-List: Apollo ACU Manuals
>
> I bought a used ACU that came without any documentation. This is about the
> only one you cannot download from Garmin's web site!
>
> If anybody is going to SnF over the next days, and has an owner guide and
an
> install manual for one, I'd like to borrow it if at all possible. I'll be
> there Friday and Saturday.
>
> I am available on Family Band Radio at SnF on channel 7-2, or by cell
phone
> 248 area code, then 722, then 0764...
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> Mark Taylor
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ronnie Brown" <romott(at)adelphia.net> |
Subject: | Re: Cylinder Work... |
>Anyone ever heard of these guys? ...have anything good or bad to say about them?
>http://www.dongeorgeaircraft.com/cylinder.htm
>-Bill
Don George is well known to the Velocity folks. Located in Orlando, he builds
many of the engines that power Velocities. I have an IO360 which was very nicely
built and documented, complete with magnaflux reports and yellow tags. I
now have 140 hours on it with NO problems.
Ronnie
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us(at)hotmail.com> |
Yes, It is true you have even rude people that enjoy flying these great
little airplanes. But has it occurred to you that the individual that you
encountered was some big shot with money that may have just purchased this
RV6A and has no idea about the labor love the rest of us enjoy by building
these airplane with our bare hands. Don't take it for granite that a lot of
RV's have been built and sold over the years and you are going to run into
more and more of these purchasers that may not share the same passion as
some. Truly a sad fact.
>From: "Mickey & Paula" <mimartin(at)sweetwaterhsa.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Rude Pilot
>Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 10:40:31 -0600
>
>
>
>I'd like to relate a story about an RV6A pilot on his way from Oregon to
>the Sun & Fun Fly-in, who landed at our airport on Tuesday April 14, 2004.
>Seems he had problems with the alternator on his RV6A and made an unplanned
>stop here in Rock Springs WY to do repairs.
>
> A friend at the airport saw his predicament and called me since I am
>building an RV6. I went to the airport with my new still in the box
>alternator expecting to offer it to him as a courtesy to a fellow RV
>builder. Turns out it was only a connector that he needed. When I arrived
>at the airport and approached the gentleman, he immediately started talking
>about how the residents of Rock Springs couldn't be smart enough to finish
>high school. All attempts to speak with this gentleman were met with rude
>replies. After listening to a few of his curt replies to our attempt at
>conversation, I knew I wouldn't be offering him any of my parts and walked
>away.
>
> I now have a new respect for Van's Aircraft for the courtesy I always
>receive every time I speak to them on the phone either with a question or
>to place an order. How they keep their pleasant manner after dealing with
>people like this guy amazes me.
>
>Sincerely,
>
>Mickey Martin
>
>RV6 builder
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | mark phipps <skydive80020(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: looking for rv6 rudder |
Steve, I have one here in Colorado if you are interested, 100 dollars plus shipping.
Mark Phipps
steve dinieri wrote:
Hangar rash has claimed the rudder on my rv6a. now rather than build a
new rudder (it'll take time from my rv-10 tail assembly) I'd love to buy
an assembled rudder. I'll travel up to several hours from the buffalo NY
area to get it. And I'll throw in lifetime scenic Niagara Falls guided
tours.....
Really I'm begging
Steve DiNieri
221RV
capsteve(at)adelphia.net
716.283.0123
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
Unnecessary extra work.
Vince
RV-8 Finish
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Skylor Piper
Subject: RV-List: Wiring Conduits
List,
I'm considering using 1/2" and/or 3/4" .016 or .020
wall aluminum tubing for wing and fuselage wire
conduits in my RV-8. I was considering this over the
plastic conduit that Van's sells for several reasons;
1. It's heat/flame resistant. 2. It offers some
additional shielding. 3. It's still light.
I'm curious what comments people have about this, and
specifically if there's any good reasons why I should
not use thin wall aluminum tube for wire conduits.
Thanks,
Skylor
RV-8 QB
Under Construction
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com> |
I'm not sure that I understand this comment! If I'm
going to install conduit anyway, I don't see how the
material makes any difference work wise, other than
having to alodine the aluminum.
--- Vince Himsl wrote:
>
>
> Unnecessary extra work.
>
> Vince
> RV-8 Finish
>
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Need links to panel pictures for -7 and -8 |
From: | alan(at)reichertech.com |
All,
I was playing with the ePanel web site today, trying to get ideas on a
panel layout. I'm still on a fence about building either a -7 or a -8.
What I've found is that putting a good IFR panel in a -8 seems to be quite
difficult. Can "Those Who Have Done It" provide links to pictures of your
-8 panel so I can get some more ideas?
Thanks.
- Alan
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bartrim, Todd" <sbartrim(at)mail.canfor.ca> |
"'aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com'"
Subject: | Dynon heated AOA pitot now available |
this week for the heated AOA pitot and plans to begin shipping next week.
I've ordered mine. I also currently have the PSS AOA system
installed so I can do some direct comparisons.
S. Todd Bartrim
Turbo 13B
RX-9endurance
C-FSTB
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
"Imagination is more important than knowledge"
-Albert Einstein
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jamie Painter" <jdpainter(at)jpainter.org> |
I am not an expert on this issue by any stretch of the imagination, but
have you considered the stress loads that will be placed on stiff aluminum
tubing while the wings are flexing while pulling G's? My first impression
would be that it would be best to have the soft conduit to reduce friction
and wear between the conduit and the ribs. Maybe this is an issue...maybe
it isn't...I don't know.
Just a thought from someone who has no clue... :-) (hey, at least I'm
self-aware)
Jamie
RV-7A, waiting on wings (should've ordered with emp kit!)
> List,
>
> I'm considering using 1/2" and/or 3/4" .016 or .020
> wall aluminum tubing for wing and fuselage wire
> conduits in my RV-8. I was considering this over the
> plastic conduit that Van's sells for several reasons;
> 1. It's heat/flame resistant. 2. It offers some
> additional shielding. 3. It's still light.
>
> I'm curious what comments people have about this, and
> specifically if there's any good reasons why I should
> not use thin wall aluminum tube for wire conduits.
>
> Thanks,
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Travis Hamblen" <TravisHamblen(at)cox.net> |
I have an RV6A at VGT and I don't know a single person around the airport.
Was hoping to meet some other RV types, check out some projects, learn a
little, and hopefully fly a little. Although I'm not the builder of my
plane I will be starting some smaller projects soon and was hoping to find
some type of RV support group or other RVers in Las Vegas. I also go out of
town on business on a regular basis and was hoping to find some RVers or
people who are interested in RVs to keep an eye on mine, maybe fly it once
in a while when I'm out of town (I really don't like her to sit there
unused). I will soon be starting a couple projects and it would be really
cool to have other experienced people or like-minded people to call upon
every once in a while. Drop me an e-mail if you are in the Las Vegas area
and need a hand with your project, need a second opinion, or want to go for
a ride in a 6A sometime.
Travis Hamblen
N457DH RV-6A 335 hrs at VGT
TravisHamblen(at)cox.net
--
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus (http://www.grisoft.com).
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Wiring Conduits |
No matter what you use for conduit it will only be supported where it passes
through the ribs and its only function is to contain and protect the wires
and to make it easier to add additional wires later on. I used thin wall 3/4
alum tube (10' = 1 lb.) others have used smaller alum; some pvc tube and
some used black plastic sprinkler tubing. Make sure the location you pick
for rigid tubing doesn't interfere with things like the bolts that pass
through the spar to hold the gas tanks on. I think weight is the largest
consideration.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jamie Painter" <jdpainter(at)jpainter.org>
> I am not an expert on this issue by any stretch of the imagination, but
> have you considered the stress loads that will be placed on stiff aluminum
> tubing while the wings are flexing while pulling G's? My first impression
> would be that it would be best to have the soft conduit to reduce friction
> and wear between the conduit and the ribs. Maybe this is an issue...maybe
> it isn't...I don't know.
> Jamie
> RV-7A, waiting on wings (should've ordered with emp kit!)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Hal / Carol Kempthorne <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Need links to panel pictures for -7 and -8 |
Hey Alan,
Build whichever suits you otherwise. By the time you are ready to think
about the panel, the RV8 will be more than big enough. There is a
revolution taking place in instruments and avionics. Soon, two six inch
displays will be all you need. There are plenty of classical full fledged
IFR RV8s flying too.
Panel and engine are finishing touches. Build an airframe. Right now, you
are wasting time, get your tail kit and start riveting!
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | WPAerial(at)aol.com |
I am from Oregon. I hated to hear this man was from Oregon too. I had trouble
with my fuel cap last year in Rock Springs. Not a whole lot there. But the
young volunteer fire fighter that was running the whole air port did every
thing he could for me. We jerryriged it together and it got me all the way to
Sun-Fun. I hope I thanked him enough.
Remember we all have our good and bad days. You see them on the highways all
the time. I am sure some of these people have just had a long bad day and on
other days they could be just fine. My wife can't stand me some days. I don't
know why?
Jerry Wilken
Albany Or
RV6A 210 Hours
N699WP
Stop by any time. Need Help or a ride to eat, give a call 926-8316
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Wiring Conduits |
I'm planning on using even thinner wall tubing than
you did. 0.020 wall 3/4" tubing weighs about 9oz per
10 feet. I will probably use 1/2" and 3/8".
Thin wall tubing has enough flex to it, that it won't
produce any significant stress on the ribs when the
wings flex. In addition, I was planning to support
the tubes with plastic grommets.
I'm glad to see that I won't be the only one to use Al
tubing for conduit.
Skylor
RV-8QB
Under Construction
--- Albert Gardner wrote:
>
>
> No matter what you use for conduit it will only be
> supported where it passes
> through the ribs and its only function is to contain
> and protect the wires
> and to make it easier to add additional wires later
> on. I used thin wall 3/4
> alum tube (10' = 1 lb.) others have used smaller
> alum; some pvc tube and
> some used black plastic sprinkler tubing. Make sure
> the location you pick
> for rigid tubing doesn't interfere with things like
> the bolts that pass
> through the spar to hold the gas tanks on. I think
> weight is the largest
> consideration.
> Albert Gardner
> RV-9A 872RV
> Yuma, AZ
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jamie Painter" <jdpainter(at)jpainter.org>
> > I am not an expert on this issue by any stretch of
> the imagination, but
> > have you considered the stress loads that will be
> placed on stiff aluminum
> > tubing while the wings are flexing while pulling
> G's? My first impression
> > would be that it would be best to have the soft
> conduit to reduce friction
> > and wear between the conduit and the ribs. Maybe
> this is an issue...maybe
> > it isn't...I don't know.
> > Jamie
> > RV-7A, waiting on wings (should've ordered with
> emp kit!)
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
Subject: | Re: Need links to panel pictures for -7 and -8 |
alan(at)reichertech.com wrote:
>
>
>All,
>
>I was playing with the ePanel web site today, trying to get ideas on a
>panel layout. I'm still on a fence about building either a -7 or a -8.
>
>What I've found is that putting a good IFR panel in a -8 seems to be quite
>difficult. Can "Those Who Have Done It" provide links to pictures of your
>-8 panel so I can get some more ideas?
>
>Thanks.
>
>- Alan
>
>
>
Check out the panel layout on this page, looks like plenty of run for
everything
http://www.acubedllc.com/Rev2Information.html
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
Subject: | Need links to panel pictures for -7 and -8 |
I really think Hal is on the right track here. My RV-8A panel under
construction has a Blue Mountain EFIS/one with 2-1/4" airspeed, altimeter,
vertical velocity and turn and bank as backup, with room left for an audio
panel/marker beacon, SL-30 nav/com, and a Garmin transponder. There was
still room left for a second control panel for the EFIS/one right over the
throttle and my Garmin 196 on the upper right of the panel, in addition to
most of the switches, a few breakers, the ignition and starter switches, ELT
warning lights, a row of 8 misc. warning lights, the AoA indicator and a few
switches, jacks and indicators I forget at the moment. The BMA EFIS/one
takes a lot of space, but it replaces a whole lot of stuff, including all
the air data and attitude instruments plus a moving map plus all the engine
gauges you could ever want and the 2-axis autopilot controls and HITS
(Highway In The Sky) indicator. I spent a whole lot of time doing and
re-doing the arrangement in CAD and building prototypes, but it hasn't
changed for a month or so, so I'm about ready to have Todd cut the final
version for me. And I have room for one of those traffic warning boxes but
haven't decided for sure whether or which to do.
But it doesn't have room that I could find to have dual conventional
nav/coms, ADF, and a whole lot of other traditional IFR instrumentation.
Terry
RV-8A wiring
Seattle
Hey Alan,
Build whichever suits you otherwise. By the time you are ready to think
about the panel, the RV8 will be more than big enough. There is a
revolution taking place in instruments and avionics. Soon, two six inch
displays will be all you need. There are plenty of classical full fledged
IFR RV8s flying too.
Panel and engine are finishing touches. Build an airframe. Right now, you
are wasting time, get your tail kit and start riveting!
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
Guys,
FWIW, Mark Landoll is selling an aftermarket type starter that he says
is a bit under 10 pounds and $190. Similar to the B&C units. Call him
for more details at 405-685-0239 or 405-392-3847.
I have one of his alternators and like it.
Vince
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
Subject: | S&F New 180hp Engines to use Mogas |
vansairforce
Sun&Fun> NEW Superior 180hp engines to use mogas >
http://www.avweb.com/eletter/archives/avflash/223-full.html#187103
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RiteAngle3(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Las Vegas RV'ers |
I have an RV6A at VGT and I don't know a single person around the airport.
Was hoping to meet some other RV types, check out some projects, learn a
little, and hopefully fly a little. Although I'm not the builder of my
plane I will be starting some smaller projects soon and was hoping to find
some type of RV support group or other RVers in Las Vegas. I also go out of
town on business on a regular basis and was hoping to find some RVers or
people who are interested in RVs to keep an eye on mine, maybe fly it once
in a while when I'm out of town (I really don't like her to sit there
unused).
*******
In the early '70's there was a very active EAA chapter in Las Vegas, built a
Breezy, was a member when I lived there while flying for USAEC. We met at what
was known as North Las Vegas Airport back then.
Elbie
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob <panamared3(at)brier.net> |
Subject: | Re: Conditional Inspection |
I have searched and searched the archives and numerous web pages for a copy
of a annual conditional inspection. Can someone please let me know where I
can find a copy on the Web.
Thanks
Bob
RV6 Nightfighter
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Conditional Inspection |
>>I have searched and searched the archives and numerous web pages for a
>>copy
>of a annual conditional inspection. Can someone please let me know where I
>can find a copy on the Web.
>
>Thanks
>
>Bob
>RV6 Nightfighter
If you're an EAA member, you can get a basic version that can be tweaked to
suit your particular aircraft at:
http://members.eaa.org/home/homebuilders/operating/inspection.html
It's really up to you to determine how to verify the airworthiness of your
RV. FAR part 43 is where it all starts.
There may be several checklists posted on various builder's websites as
well. Link to them off Van's webpage or the world wide wing at
vansaircraft.net.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
Subject: | Conditional Inspection |
Randy Levold has one at
http://www.rv-8.com/Flying.htm#Aircraft%20documents%20(downloads)
Terry
I have searched and searched the archives and numerous web pages for a copy
of a annual conditional inspection. Can someone please let me know where I
can find a copy on the Web.
Thanks
Bob
RV6 Nightfighter
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
Subject: | Re: Conditional Inspection |
http://www.vondane.com/rv8a/downloads/index.htm
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob" <panamared3(at)brier.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Conditional Inspection
I have searched and searched the archives and numerous web pages for a copy
of a annual conditional inspection. Can someone please let me know where I
can find a copy on the Web.
Thanks
Bob
RV6 Nightfighter
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
Subject: | speeds (BEFORE FAIRINGS) |
Data points just for kicks....
Just got down from speed run testing. First I landed at SNA and used the
compass rose to calibrate my Dynon's remote compass. That thing is rock
solid now. You can be hauling 3G through a 90-bank turn, and the thing
indicates dead-on (best I can tell). No acceleration errors, no lag/lead,
it's a thing of beauty.
With a reliable compass indication, I went out to the practice area for
speed runs.
NOTE: all tests performed at full throttle, leaned to 100 ROP
NOTE: all tests performed in smooth air, in level, stabilized flight
NOTE: plane has NO LEG FAIRINGS or WHEEL PANTS installed
NOTE: fresh air vents were closed
NOTE: all speeds are in KNOTS
***** Test Set A: 7500' MSL, Alt=30.04", OAT=43F
1) 23.7" / 2500RPM, N=176, E=171, S=152, W=156
Average: 164 KTAS
2) 23.7" / 2600 RPM, N=180, E=172, S=153, W=158
Average: 166 KTAS
3) 23.6" / 2660 RPM, N=183, E=174, S=155, W=159
Average: 168 KTAS
***** Test Set B: 6500' MSL, Alt=30.04", OAT=46F
1) 24.6" / 2500 RPM, N=174, E=170, S=155, W=161
Average: 165 KTAS
2) 24.65" / 2600 RPM, N=177, E=169, S=158, W=164
Average: 167 KTAS
3) 24.5" / 2670 RPM, N=178, E=172, S=160, W=165
Average: 169 KTAS
That's all the testing I did so far. The purpose of this is to establish a
baseline before installing any gear/leg/intersection fairings. I'm going to
"itemize" the speed gains with fairings, starting with just the leg
fairings.
I'm hopeful that I'll be able to hit 180 KTAS at some altitude & power
configuration once everything is cleaned up. Wish me luck...
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: speeds (BEFORE FAIRINGS) |
Dan dont worry, 180 knots will be easy for you. All the fairings will add
10 knots which will put you right there. Just to let you know the wheel
pants add little, the big increase comes form the gear leg fairings.
>
>Data points just for kicks....
>
>Just got down from speed run testing. First I landed at SNA and used the
>compass rose to calibrate my Dynon's remote compass. That thing is rock
>solid now. You can be hauling 3G through a 90-bank turn, and the thing
>indicates dead-on (best I can tell). No acceleration errors, no lag/lead,
>it's a thing of beauty.
>
>With a reliable compass indication, I went out to the practice area for
>speed runs.
>
>NOTE: all tests performed at full throttle, leaned to 100 ROP
>NOTE: all tests performed in smooth air, in level, stabilized flight
>NOTE: plane has NO LEG FAIRINGS or WHEEL PANTS installed
>NOTE: fresh air vents were closed
>NOTE: all speeds are in KNOTS
>
>***** Test Set A: 7500' MSL, Alt=30.04", OAT=43F
>
>1) 23.7" / 2500RPM, N=176, E=171, S=152, W=156
>Average: 164 KTAS
>
>2) 23.7" / 2600 RPM, N=180, E=172, S=153, W=158
>Average: 166 KTAS
>
>3) 23.6" / 2660 RPM, N=183, E=174, S=155, W=159
>Average: 168 KTAS
>
>***** Test Set B: 6500' MSL, Alt=30.04", OAT=46F
>
>1) 24.6" / 2500 RPM, N=174, E=170, S=155, W=161
>Average: 165 KTAS
>
>2) 24.65" / 2600 RPM, N=177, E=169, S=158, W=164
>Average: 167 KTAS
>
>3) 24.5" / 2670 RPM, N=178, E=172, S=160, W=165
>Average: 169 KTAS
>
>That's all the testing I did so far. The purpose of this is to establish a
>baseline before installing any gear/leg/intersection fairings. I'm going to
>"itemize" the speed gains with fairings, starting with just the leg
>fairings.
>
>I'm hopeful that I'll be able to hit 180 KTAS at some altitude & power
>configuration once everything is cleaned up. Wish me luck...
>
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: speeds (BEFORE FAIRINGS) |
Scott Bilinski wrote:
>
>Dan dont worry, 180 knots will be easy for you. All the fairings will add
>10 knots which will put you right there. Just to let you know the wheel
>pants add little, the big increase comes form the gear leg fairings.
>
>
>
>>
>>Data points just for kicks....
>>
>>Just got down from speed run testing. First I landed at SNA and used the
>>compass rose to calibrate my Dynon's remote compass. That thing is rock
>>solid now. You can be hauling 3G through a 90-bank turn, and the thing
>>indicates dead-on (best I can tell). No acceleration errors, no lag/lead,
>>it's a thing of beauty.
>>
>>With a reliable compass indication, I went out to the practice area for
>>speed runs.
>>
>>NOTE: all tests performed at full throttle, leaned to 100 ROP
>>NOTE: all tests performed in smooth air, in level, stabilized flight
>>NOTE: plane has NO LEG FAIRINGS or WHEEL PANTS installed
>>NOTE: fresh air vents were closed
>>NOTE: all speeds are in KNOTS
>>
>>***** Test Set A: 7500' MSL, Alt=30.04", OAT=43F
>>
>>1) 23.7" / 2500RPM, N=176, E=171, S=152, W=156
>>Average: 164 KTAS
>>
>>2) 23.7" / 2600 RPM, N=180, E=172, S=153, W=158
>>Average: 166 KTAS
>>
>>3) 23.6" / 2660 RPM, N=183, E=174, S=155, W=159
>>Average: 168 KTAS
>>
>>***** Test Set B: 6500' MSL, Alt=30.04", OAT=46F
>>
>>1) 24.6" / 2500 RPM, N=174, E=170, S=155, W=161
>>Average: 165 KTAS
>>
>>2) 24.65" / 2600 RPM, N=177, E=169, S=158, W=164
>>Average: 167 KTAS
>>
>>3) 24.5" / 2670 RPM, N=178, E=172, S=160, W=165
>>Average: 169 KTAS
>>
>>That's all the testing I did so far. The purpose of this is to establish a
>>baseline before installing any gear/leg/intersection fairings. I'm going to
>>"itemize" the speed gains with fairings, starting with just the leg
>>fairings.
>>
>>I'm hopeful that I'll be able to hit 180 KTAS at some altitude & power
>>configuration once everything is cleaned up. Wish me luck...
>>
>>)_( Dan
>>RV-7 N714D
>>http://www.rvproject.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>Scott Bilinski
>Eng dept 305
>Phone (858) 657-2536
>Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
>
I would not say wheel pants add very little, they are good for at least
4 kts which is not very little IMO.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: speeds (BEFORE FAIRINGS) |
I can verify this. I just installed my fairings for the first time
yesterday. It was a little bumpy and not ideal conditions for testing,
but I got a good 11-12 kt increase with all the fairings. This is 75%,
WOT at 8000', 100 ROP, 2720 RPM.
On a related note, my gear leg fairings, which I so carefully aligned,
seem to be off by a good bit. I needed to hold significant right rudder
to keep the ball centered, with the fairings attached. I mean
significant, it felt like flying with the left engine out. I did
carefully align them using the method in the plans. Now it is going to
be trial and error to get them more accurately aligned. Guess that's
why they call it flight testing.
Jeff Point
RV-6 18 hours
Milwaukee WI
Scott Bilinski wrote:
>Dan dont worry, 180 knots will be easy for you. All the fairings will add
>10 knots which will put you right there. Just to let you know the wheel
>pants add little, the big increase comes form the gear leg fairings.
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Corrosion fix for steel? |
1.0 FAKE_HELO_HOTMAIL Host HELO did not match rDNS: hotmail.com
All,
Forgive me if somebody else has posted this idea. As we know, rust forms on
unpainted steel quick as a wink, so what to do? Our nice powder coated
parts are great, but when you clean out the bolt holes the resultant bare
steel is vulnerable, and who wants to add thickness with paint?
Try gun bluing. You can get a little plastic bottle of the stuff for a few
bucks at Wal-Mart, and it works great. Make sure the steel is rust free,
then dab the liquid on with a q-tip. It turns a nasty black color, but it
won't rust thereafter.
Jim Bower
RV-6A Fuse
St. Louis, MO
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Shake rattle & roll...all gone. |
A few weeks ago someone asked for a way to shut down the engine without
that annoying shake rattle & roll. Only one lister responded with an actual
solution. And the winner is......Donald Mei. I pasted his solution below:
<>
I have tried this for the last 15 shutdowns and it works every time. The
only difference I have had to make is that I let the engine idle for about
15-30 seconds at this very lean, slightly rough setting. For me 900RPM
works well. After 15-20 seconds, I pull the mixture and what's left of the
throttle to cut off position. The engine stops smoothly. Something else
too. It starts easier on the next start. I guess the plugs are cleaner.
-
Louis I Willig
1640 Oakwood Dr.
Penn Valley, PA 19072
610 668-4964
RV-4, N180PF
190HP IO-360, C/S prop
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Blown fuse-strange event. |
Hi guys,
I have two cigarette lighter type power sockets in my RV-4. Both are
breaker protected at 5 amps. #1 socket powers my GPS, and #2 socket powers
my ANR headset. A few weeks ago, the 2 amp fuse contained in the male power
plug of my GPS blew. I changed it and a few hours later, it blew again. The
breaker on my panel never blew.
I switched the two devices, and the GPS has worked fine. But today the ANR
power plug fuse blew.
The problem is not in the devices used but seems to be in the power
socket/wiring system. How can this be? Any ideas before I spend three
hours tearing apart my honey?
Thanks in advance. Louis
-
Louis I Willig
1640 Oakwood Dr.
Penn Valley, PA 19072
610 668-4964
RV-4, N180PF
190HP IO-360, C/S prop
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor(at)msn.com> |
My Slick wiring harness leads are way too long. I figured out how to get the plug
end assembly off (5 parts) to shorten the wires, but I'm having trouble getting
the spring stud back in the shortened wire. Anyone know a good trick to easily
get the spring stud back into the center of the wire??
Tommy
6A, Firewall Forward
Ridgetop, TN
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Geoff Evans <hellothaimassage(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | RV-8 flap motor interference |
Has anyone else had an interference problem with the flap actuator motor and
the side panel cover in an RV-8? If so, can you offer any pictures or a
description detailing what you did to fix it?
My motor sticks out 3/16" beyond the armrest and side panel cover. The
interference is at the top (retracted flap position), so I can't just move
the bottom of the side panel cover inboard.
I've heard that this is a common problem. I have a QB fuselage and the holes
for the location of the plastic flap arm mounting blocks were pre-drilled, so
there isn't anything I could have done wrong here (in terms of location of
mounting).
I talked to one builder who cut the end off the steel flap arm and re-welded
it farther outboard (where there is plenty of room). I don't really have the
resources to do that, so I was wondering if anyone had another solution that
didn't end up looking too cheesy.
Thanks.
-Geoff
RV-8 QB
__________________________________
http://photos.yahoo.com/ph/print_splash
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gould, Richard AE1 NAVTESTWINGPAC 561000E" <richard.j.gould(at)navy.mil> |
From: "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com>
> Forgive me if somebody else has posted this idea.
> the resultant bare steel is vulnerable, and who wants to add thickness with paint?
> Try gun bluing. You can get a little plastic bottle of the stuff for a few
> bucks at Wal-Mart, and it works great.
>
> Jim Bower
What a great idea! Simple, cheap and effective! I never would have thought of it.
Thanks for the tip!
Rick Gould
RV-4 Camarillo, CA
FLY NAVY!
__I__
--O--O--( )--O--O--
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Lundin <rlundin46(at)yahoo.com> |
I think you need to check the voltage at the plug,
while you have a load on it. My guess is you have a
bad connection/soldier joint somewhere in the wiring.
That causes a voltage drop, which causes excess
amperage draw.
Good luck,
Rick Lundin
RV-8 Tail done, wings on order
--- Louis Willig wrote:
>
>
> Hi guys,
>
> I have two cigarette lighter type power sockets in
> my RV-4. Both are
> breaker protected at 5 amps. #1 socket powers my
> GPS, and #2 socket powers
> my ANR headset. A few weeks ago, the 2 amp fuse
> contained in the male power
> plug of my GPS blew. I changed it and a few hours
> later, it blew again. The
> breaker on my panel never blew.
>
> I switched the two devices, and the GPS has worked
> fine. But today the ANR
> power plug fuse blew.
>
> The problem is not in the devices used but seems to
> be in the power
> socket/wiring system. How can this be? Any ideas
> before I spend three
> hours tearing apart my honey?
>
> Thanks in advance. Louis
>
>
> -
> Louis I Willig
> 1640 Oakwood Dr.
> Penn Valley, PA 19072
> 610 668-4964
> RV-4, N180PF
> 190HP IO-360, C/S prop
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://photos.yahoo.com/ph/print_splash
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "DAVID DAVENPORT" <ddavenport5(at)nc.rr.com> |
Subject: | VSI & Altimeter Flucuations |
While in level flight in my -6, if my plane yaws at all due to turbulence, I get
a steady, rythmic flucuation in both the ASI and altimeter. I am assuming that
the static system is getting some sort of airflow disturbance when one side
or the other is exposed to a different airflow due to the yaw, but it is hard
to say. I am using Van's rivet head static ports in the location marked on the
static kit paperwork. If, when pushing the remaining rivet through the hole
somehow has created two different size holes, would that make a difference? Has
anyone run into this and come up with any decent solutions? I'd love to know,
because my autopilot altitude hold is hooked into this system and it makes
the pitch servo work hard trying to chase those altitude deviations. Thanks in
advance for any help/ideas.
David Davenport
RV-6 N168DD 67 Hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tim Bryan" <Tim(at)bryantechnology.com> |
I think you are right about a bad connection or such, however the heat from
that may be more of the reason than over amperage. Same answer, same
conclusion, just different idea of WHY
Tim Bryan
Redmond, OR.
RV-6 N616TB Not yet flying but close
I think you need to check the voltage at the plug,
while you have a load on it. My guess is you have a
bad connection/soldier joint somewhere in the wiring.
That causes a voltage drop, which causes excess
amperage draw.
Good luck,
Rick Lundin
RV-8 Tail done, wings on order
--- Louis Willig wrote:
>
>
> Hi guys,
>
> I have two cigarette lighter type power sockets in
> my RV-4. Both are
> breaker protected at 5 amps. #1 socket powers my
> GPS, and #2 socket powers
> my ANR headset. A few weeks ago, the 2 amp fuse
> contained in the male power
> plug of my GPS blew. I changed it and a few hours
> later, it blew again. The
> breaker on my panel never blew.
>
> I switched the two devices, and the GPS has worked
> fine. But today the ANR
> power plug fuse blew.
>
> The problem is not in the devices used but seems to
> be in the power
> socket/wiring system. How can this be? Any ideas
> before I spend three
> hours tearing apart my honey?
>
> Thanks in advance. Louis
>
>
> -
> Louis I Willig
> 1640 Oakwood Dr.
> Penn Valley, PA 19072
> 610 668-4964
> RV-4, N180PF
> 190HP IO-360, C/S prop
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
__________________________________
http://photos.yahoo.com/ph/print_splash
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | GLCole5475(at)aol.com |
Gentelmen,
I am not sure why the fuses are blowing, but do disagree with your analysis.
If you have a bad solder joint or connection the resistance of that
connection will be higher. This will generate more heat in the connection and lower
the
voltage and therefore current being applied to the device being driven. But
it will not cause the fuse to blow. Fuses are inherently current sensitive.
Check the voltage being applied to the two devices. You may find that the
voltage is high in the one blowing the fuses. If so, your bad connection will
be in the one that is not blowing fuses.
It's a thought.
Good luck.
Gary
Working on my HRII fuselage.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Hal / Carol Kempthorne <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
Guns rust, blueing helps, but the steel does still rust. Poorly cared for
guns show fingerprints at least.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV-8 flap motor interference |
yes. just enlarge the hole in the fuse it passes through.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Sun & Fun Accident? |
Also at the Sun 'N Fun Fly-In, a small plane flipped over on the runway. The
two people inside the Glasair III had to be extricated, but neither was
seriously hurt.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
Subject: | 1st friendly reminder - Twin Cities RV Fly-In |
Fellow Listers:
We are beginning the countdown for the Twin Cities RV Fly-In to be held in
Minneapolis on May 22 and 23. Folks, we want this to be the premier RV
event in the upper Midwest this spring. So we have a lofty goal: we want
to see every RV in this area that has ever seen light under its tires to
blacken the skies of the Twin Cities on May 22 and 23. If fact, lets just
shoot for the moon and get every possible RV to Anoka County Airport that
weekend. THIS MEANS YOU!!!!
The TCRVFI will be a major part of Discover Aviation Days. This is a big
deal with a fly-in breakfast, food, warbirds, fly-bys, displays, vendors,
pig roast, hangar dance, etc, etc. We'll have an RV hospitality tent,
awards for fly-in RVs, door prizes, wife rides, mini-seminars on Saturday
(Van's Aircraft will be there represented by Bruce Reynolds) and more.
Here's the Fly-In website:
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~rvflyin/index.htm - check it often for
updates
Here's Discover Aviation Day's website:
http://www.discoveraviationdays.org/
We'll be spreading the word and reminding everyone over the next 4 weeks.
Let's show the Discover Aviation Days folks just what these RVs are all
about.
Any questions? Email me off list.
Thanks
Doug Weiler
pres, MN Wing
dougweil(at)pressenter.cojm
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | VSI & Altimeter Flucuations |
> While in level flight in my -6, if my plane yaws at all due
> to turbulence, I get a steady, rythmic flucuation in both the
> ASI and altimeter. I am assuming that the static system is
> getting some sort of airflow disturbance when one side or the
> other is exposed to a different airflow due to the yaw, but
> it is hard to say. I am using Van's rivet head static ports
> in the location marked on the static kit paperwork. If, when
> pushing the remaining rivet through the hole somehow has
> created two different size holes, would that make a
> difference? Has anyone run into this and come up with any
> decent solutions? I'd love to know, because my autopilot
> altitude hold is hooked into this system and it makes the
> pitch servo work hard trying to chase those altitude
> deviations. Thanks in advance for any help/ideas.
>
> David Davenport
> RV-6 N168DD 67 Hrs.
You could try putting a restriction in the static line going to the
altitude hold autopilot (you don't want the other static instruments
affected, so make sure they are not down stream of this restriction).
This could be a problem if your autopilot has a climb/descent RATE mode,
you'll have to experiment. I suspect that the hole through the
restriction will need to be quite small, and the volume between the
restriction and the sensor should be high (a couple coils of tubing
perhaps). Also, talk to the autopilot maker and see if there is a gain
control for that purpose on the unit which can be adjusted.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 458 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
description ---- ----------------------
--------------------------------------------------
Thats great info. But dosent that also mean the idle mixture is to rich?
>
>A few weeks ago someone asked for a way to shut down the engine without
>that annoying shake rattle & roll. Only one lister responded with an actual
>solution. And the winner is......Donald Mei. I pasted his solution below:
>
><until some roughness is detected. Leave it there for a few seconds, then
>pull to idle cut off. The engine will shut down as if you had turned off
>the key.>>
>
>
>I have tried this for the last 15 shutdowns and it works every time. The
>only difference I have had to make is that I let the engine idle for about
>15-30 seconds at this very lean, slightly rough setting. For me 900RPM
>works well. After 15-20 seconds, I pull the mixture and what's left of the
>throttle to cut off position. The engine stops smoothly. Something else
>too. It starts easier on the next start. I guess the plugs are cleaner.
>
>
>-
>Louis I Willig
>1640 Oakwood Dr.
>Penn Valley, PA 19072
>610 668-4964
>RV-4, N180PF
>190HP IO-360, C/S prop
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Rude Pilot/Now Great Pilot!! |
Sorry to hear of your loss, Dana. Condolences to family & friends. Hope it is
some comfort to know he is in a better place. And yes, it is the people.
Regards,
Doug Preston
RV8
N127EK
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Geoff Evans <hellothaimassage(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-8 flap motor interference |
>>yes. just enlarge the hole in the fuse it passes through.<<
That's not the problem. It's not the actuator arm, but rather the actual
electric motor itself. I can't screw the side panel cover on without some
sort of a 1/4" spacer or without moving the motor outboard (which would
require rewelding the tab where the motor connects to the steel flap
weldment).
I also had to notch the flange on the armrest, as the motor runs into it in
the fully-retracted position.
-Geoff
__________________________________
http://photos.yahoo.com/ph/print_splash
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Slick Mag Wires |
Tommy,
The Lycoming Overhaul Manual (of all places) has pictures of the tools and
complete instructions for working on the Slick plug wires. I just did this same
thing myself. You drill a small hole down the center of the coiled wire and
the spring piece screws into the hole.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (almost done)
In a message dated 4/17/04 7:13:29 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
twsurveyor(at)msn.com writes:
>
> My Slick wiring harness leads are way too long. I figured out how to get the
> plug end assembly off (5 parts) to shorten the wires, but I'm having trouble
> getting the spring stud back in the shortened wire. Anyone know a good trick
> to easily get the spring stud back into the center of the wire??
>
> Tommy
> 6A, Firewall Forward
> Ridgetop, TN
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Control system final assembly question |
When final assembling the aileron to control stick pushrods to the aileron
bellcrank in my RV-6 I discovered that since the opening in the bellcrank is
1/2" and the pushrod bearing width is 7/16", there is no way (that I can see) to
get the 1/16" thick 5702-75-060 small O.D. washers specified on RV-6 drawing
19a in the remaining 1/32" gap on each side of the bearing. Anyone out there
remember what you did there. I called Van's this morning and they said to just
use AN960-10L (thin) washers, but I figure the callout for the small O.D.
washers must be on the drawing for some good reason.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, final assembly
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
Subject: | Re: Slick Mag Wires |
I have been thinking of replacing my wires, can I use an automotive wire?
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: <Hopperdhh(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Slick Mag Wires
Tommy,
The Lycoming Overhaul Manual (of all places) has pictures of the tools and
complete instructions for working on the Slick plug wires. I just did this
same
thing myself. You drill a small hole down the center of the coiled wire and
the spring piece screws into the hole.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (almost done)
In a message dated 4/17/04 7:13:29 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
twsurveyor(at)msn.com writes:
>
> My Slick wiring harness leads are way too long. I figured out how to get
the
> plug end assembly off (5 parts) to shorten the wires, but I'm having
trouble
> getting the spring stud back in the shortened wire. Anyone know a good
trick
> to easily get the spring stud back into the center of the wire??
>
> Tommy
> 6A, Firewall Forward
> Ridgetop, TN
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Slick Mag Wires |
In a message dated 4/19/04 11:57:06 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
bill(at)vondane.com writes:
>
> I have been thinking of replacing my wires, can I use an automotive wire?
>
> -Bill
>
>
Bill,
Electrically, automotive wire is probably fine. But it isn't shielded for
one thing. After stripping this wire and seeing the quality and toughness of
the helical wound center conductor, several silicone insulation layers, and
fiberglass braid for strength I was very impressed. Also, the terminations are
very well designed. These Lycomings have a lot of vibration compared to auto
engines. You can't bend or vibrate the wire on my plane enough to hurt it.
Stay with the aircraft wire. IMHO.
Dan Hopper (Worked in ignition for GM for 15 years.)
RV-7A (almost done)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John D. Heath" <altoq(at)direcway.com> |
Subject: | Re: Control system final assembly question |
----- Original Message -----
From: <HCRV6(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Control system final assembly question
> ......Van's this morning and they said to just
> use AN960-10L (thin) washers...............
> Pleasanton, California
> RV-6, final assembly
AN960-10L washer is 0.438" OD, 0.203" ID, and 0.032" Thick.
Combonations of -10 's and -10L 's could be used to fill the space' staying
equal on both sides of the bearing as posible. Purpose to minimize stress
in the bell crankwhen you tighten the bolt and allow the control tube to
turn
around it's longitudinalaxis.
John D
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Control system final assembly question |
Harry,
The small OD washers allow the spherical bearings on the rod ends to rotate
a little further without interference. The aileron pushrods are very
sensitive to the position of the rod ends so that nothing binds during full
stick movement. I found the control weldment to be the problem area, not the
bellcrank. You may not need the small OD washers to get clearance but if you
do then I'd spread the ears to get that extra 1/32".
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
>
>
> When final assembling the aileron to control stick pushrods
> to the aileron
> bellcrank in my RV-6 I discovered that since the opening in
> the bellcrank is
> 1/2" and the pushrod bearing width is 7/16", there is no way
> (that I can see) to
> get the 1/16" thick 5702-75-060 small O.D. washers specified
> on RV-6 drawing
> 19a in the remaining 1/32" gap on each side of the bearing.
> Anyone out there
> remember what you did there. I called Van's this morning and
> they said to just
> use AN960-10L (thin) washers, but I figure the callout for
> the small O.D.
> washers must be on the drawing for some good reason.
>
> Harry Crosby
> Pleasanton, California
> RV-6, final assembly
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: Shake rattle & roll...all gone. |
At 09:21 AM 4/19/2004, you wrote:
>
>Thats great info. But dosent that also mean the idle mixture is to rich?
>
> >
> >A few weeks ago someone asked for a way to shut down the engine without
> >that annoying shake rattle & roll. Only one lister responded with an actual
> >solution. And the winner is......Donald Mei. I pasted his solution below:
> >
> >< >until some roughness is detected. Leave it there for a few seconds, then
> >pull to idle cut off. The engine will shut down as if you had turned off
> >the key.>>
I don't think so. When I slowly pull the mixture towards the idle cut off
position, I get the normal 25-50 RPM rise. But a silly little millimeter
prior to shut down, I stop pulling. I let the engine run ( its just a
little rough at this point) for 15-20 seconds and then pull some more. I
really thinks the engine is tuned properly throughout its RPM range. I
don't know why the Lycosaures shake so much during shutdown, and I don't
know why this procedure eliminates the shake. I just know that it works.
Louis
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mark Antenbring <mantenbring(at)pangaeainc.com> |
Subject: | Elevator trim tab hinge |
I've drilled the hinge to the trim tab, but not to 606PP (elevator side)
yet. When I clamp the hinge to 606PP and check the alignment of the trim
tab, I'm thinking I screwed up somewhere. The trailing edge of the trim tab
sticks out past the trailing edge of the elevator by 3/32" or maybe even
1/8". The shortest distance between the trim tab skin and the elevator skin
that I can get is 1/4" because of the hinge contacting the radius of 606PP.
Can I file the hinge down lengthwise 2/32"? Looking for other appropriate
fixes.
Mark
RV7 - wings still in the crates - is there a flap hinge in there that I can
use on the elevator?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Oil line connections |
I am about to order hose and fittings etc. for plumbing my oil cooler. Two questions
come to mind:
1) Should I use steel AN fittings on the engine (AN-8) or will aluminum do?
2) what type of pipe thread sealer should be used?
Thanks,
Tommy
6A, FWF
Ridgetop, TN
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: Oil line connections |
Steel or aluminum will work. I used steel, but I had to pull OEM aluminum
fittings loose to install the steel fittings... Those OEM fittings had
lasted 2000+ hours...
No pipe thread sealer is necessary on these fittings.
Kyle
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor(at)msn.com>
Subject: RV-List: Oil line connections
>
> I am about to order hose and fittings etc. for plumbing my oil cooler. Two
questions come to mind:
>
> 1) Should I use steel AN fittings on the engine (AN-8) or will aluminum
do?
> 2) what type of pipe thread sealer should be used?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tommy
> 6A, FWF
> Ridgetop, TN
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Elevator trim tab hinge |
I would think you could "file down" the hinge as long as you maintain the proper
ED. Otherwise I wouldn't worry about it, my trim tab "sticks out" slightly past
the elevator too. No one knows but me (and you)!
Tommy Walker
6A, Finishing
Ridgetop, TN
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark Antenbring
To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com'
Sent: Monday, April 19, 2004 5:27 PM
Subject: RV-List: Elevator trim tab hinge
I've drilled the hinge to the trim tab, but not to 606PP (elevator side)
yet. When I clamp the hinge to 606PP and check the alignment of the trim
tab, I'm thinking I screwed up somewhere. The trailing edge of the trim tab
sticks out past the trailing edge of the elevator by 3/32" or maybe even
1/8". The shortest distance between the trim tab skin and the elevator skin
that I can get is 1/4" because of the hinge contacting the radius of 606PP.
Can I file the hinge down lengthwise 2/32"? Looking for other appropriate
fixes.
Mark
RV7 - wings still in the crates - is there a flap hinge in there that I can
use on the elevator?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
Subject: | F-674 skin and back window (tip-up canopy) |
I've reviewed some msgs on trimming the glass and otherwise building the tip
up canopy. Is there a website or document that gives good A-Z instructions
that supplement the Vans manual on tip up canopy fabrication?
David Carter
Riveting on the F-675 aft top skin!
Finish kit just inventoried
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Oil line connections |
>
> No pipe thread sealer is necessary on these fittings.
>
Beware! More than one brand new oil cooler has been ruined when people
have threaded aluminum fittings into them. These threaded joints will
gall up, and you will be ordering a new cooler. Use EZ Turn thread
lubricant.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 458 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | Re: F-674 skin and back window (tip-up canopy) |
David Carter wrote:
>
> I've reviewed some msgs on trimming the glass and otherwise building the tip
> up canopy. Is there a website or document that gives good A-Z instructions
> that supplement the Vans manual on tip up canopy fabrication?
>
> David Carter
> Riveting on the F-675 aft top skin!
> Finish kit just inventoried
David, a resource that is probably totally unknown to current builders
is the set of notes compiled by Will Cretsinger:
http://home.flash.net/~gila/wing_docs/canopy_notes2.htm
Back in the middle/late 90's, Will's notes were a valuable complement to
those of us muddling through the primitive Vans manual. No doubt there
is still a lot of good info in Will's notes that would be helpful for
builders of the pop-together kits.
Here is another blast from the past, Frank Justice's notes:
http://www.edt.com/homewing/justice
I fear that many new builders fail to consider the older notes and
websites and in so doing, pass over some valuable info.
Hope this helps,
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> .
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Oil line connections |
Tommy:
It is good practice to use steel in the engine.
I have a 1961 O-320 that I removed from a Tri-Pacer. It had aluminum
fittings and I replaced them with new aluminum fittings when I REBUILT the
engine. The Governer for the Constant Speed Prop REQUIRES STEEL fittings at
both ends. I also use conical copper seals on the flaired fittings that
mate to steel but not on the aluminum ones.
I used Baker Seal on all pipe thread fittings reguardless of weather they
are aluminum or steel. There are aluminum fittings in my oil cooler.
Gary A. Sobek
EAA TC
FAA A&P
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,452 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor(at)msn.com>
Subject: RV-List: Oil line connections
Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 17:55:20 -0500
I am about to order hose and fittings etc. for plumbing my oil cooler. Two
questions come to mind:
1) Should I use steel AN fittings on the engine (AN-8) or will aluminum do?
2) what type of pipe thread sealer should be used?
Thanks,
Tommy
6A, FWF
Ridgetop, TN
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: speeds (BEFORE FAIRINGS) |
I would not say wheel pants add very little, they are good for at least
4 kts which is not very little IMO.
FWIW, I speed taped my Team Rocket leg fairings on for the S&F run and saw
about 8 or 9 mph improvement (still pantless)- still bangin' on the dam pants,
tho, & will see what happens there.....
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark (1st big trip & omigawdwhutaplane!!!!!!!!!) 8-)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
descr...
I have tried this for the last 15 shutdowns and it works every time.
Same here- Thanks, Don... (150 hp E3D)
Mark at The PossumWorks
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ron Walker" <ron(at)walker.net> |
Subject: | Re: F-674 skin and back window (tip-up canopy) |
Tip of the day:
After making *any* cuts to it, make sure sure sure sure to clean the edges
of any and all sharp edges BEFORE MOVING IT. These edges *will* focus any
stress encountered while moving it, and cracks (expensive ones) are *very*
likely to occur.
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net>
Subject: RV-List: F-674 skin and back window (tip-up canopy)
>
> I've reviewed some msgs on trimming the glass and otherwise building the
tip
> up canopy. Is there a website or document that gives good A-Z
instructions
> that supplement the Vans manual on tip up canopy fabrication?
>
> David Carter
> Riveting on the F-675 aft top skin!
> Finish kit just inventoried
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Oil line connections |
In a message dated 4/19/2004 3:50:42 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
twsurveyor(at)msn.com writes:
I am about to order hose and fittings etc. for plumbing my oil cooler. Two
questions come to mind:
1) Should I use steel AN fittings on the engine (AN-8) or will aluminum do?
2) what type of pipe thread sealer should be used?
========================================
If there is a hose hanging on a fitting, I always recommend using stainless
steel on the engine proper and aluminum elsewhere. I have seen that Van's use
aluminum all places, including engine.
Fuelube.
GV (RV-6A N1GV flying 685 hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
Subject: | Manual Elev Trim - 'Cessna Wheel' orientation of knob |
Sorry I took so long to expand my skills at web page updates, to add photos
(a first for me). Here's the link to photos I promised about 2 weeks ago -
how I changed the routing of manual elev trim cable so knob it is oriented
and works like a Cessna Trim wheel. You can take a look at this link to my
web page - it's the "Apr. 19, 2004" entry at top of page.
http://www.datarecall.net/~dcarter/Builder's%20Log.html
David
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com> |
Subject: | Gascolator bracket for 6/6A |
List:
I am "fix'n" to mount my gascolator for my 6A and have run into a snag. I have
received my firewall forward kit which is designed more for the 7/7A. The 6/6A
additions kit was also ordered. For the gascolator bracket, in the 7/7A, it
fits on the aft side of the firewall between the diagonal stiffener and the
side stiffener on the pax side. In the 6/6A, there is an additional diagonal
stiffener that prevents the gascolator bracket from sitting flush on the aft side
of the firewall.
What have other 6/6A builders done in this situation? My tentative plan is to
cut the bracket so that it will sit between the firewall diagonal stiffeners and
then add a 3/4 x 3/4 x .063 piece of angle to tie it to the additional diagonal
stiffener at the bracket's cut end. This, along with riveting the modified
bracket to the firewall should provide enough strength to support the gascolator.
Just thought I would run this by fellow builders before I go and ruin a perfectly
good part. Not that I have ever done that, mind you........
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P (res)
wiring, panel stuff, firewall stuff
Peshtigo, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | tacaruth(at)ralcorp.com |
04/20/2004 08:33:12 AM
I would check for a loose connection. Since fuses are designed to melt at
a certain temperature, any external heat source would have a negative
effect. A loose connection would have a higher resistance and would
generate extra heat. You might also want to use slo-blowing fuses to
eliminate nuisance tripping.
Good Luck,
Tom
Louis Willig
<larywil@comcast.
net> To
Sent by: rv-list(at)matronics.com
owner-rv-list-ser cc
ver(at)matronics.com
Subject
RV-List: Blown fuse-strange event.
PM description ----
----------------------
-----------------------------------
Please respond to ---------------
rv-list@matronics
.com
Hi guys,
I have two cigarette lighter type power sockets in my RV-4. Both are
breaker protected at 5 amps. #1 socket powers my GPS, and #2 socket powers
my ANR headset. A few weeks ago, the 2 amp fuse contained in the male power
plug of my GPS blew. I changed it and a few hours later, it blew again. The
breaker on my panel never blew.
I switched the two devices, and the GPS has worked fine. But today the ANR
power plug fuse blew.
The problem is not in the devices used but seems to be in the power
socket/wiring system. How can this be? Any ideas before I spend three
hours tearing apart my honey?
Thanks in advance. Louis
-
Louis I Willig
1640 Oakwood Dr.
Penn Valley, PA 19072
610 668-4964
RV-4, N180PF
190HP IO-360, C/S prop
If you are not the intended addressee indicated in this message (or
responsible for delivery of the message to such person), you may not copy
message and kindly notify the sender by reply email. Please advise
immediately if you or your employer do not consent to internet email for
messages of this kind.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "pcondon" <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
Subject: | Dynon D-10 EFIS AOA Question |
I am interested in the AOA feature on the Dynon but have reservations on the
indicator that presents the AOA data. I have stopped by the other AOA
purveyors and listened to the sales pitches. I guess I can swallow the
physics of the indicator and what it claims to measure. What I can't see is
the real case of flying by the AOA in the Dynon display. Has anyone really
flew by AOA reference NOT airspeed ?? Is the Dynon small yellow, green & red
bars really accurate enough to yield real enough data for "edge of stall"
flying ???
The reason I ask this is the other vendors have a rather large display with
graduations that seem more functional for actual flying by (that) reference.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
Hold it guys!
Some of the newer electronics uses switching regulators, even small cheap
stuff, to reduce the power dissipation. With these devices, when the voltage
drops the current increases to keep the power the same. So either of you could
be right.
My $0.02 worth.
Dan
RV-7A (almost done)
In a message dated 4/18/04 11:45:41 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
GLCole5475(at)aol.com writes:
>
>
> Gentelmen,
>
> I am not sure why the fuses are blowing, but do disagree with your analysis.
>
> If you have a bad solder joint or connection the resistance of that
> connection will be higher. This will generate more heat in the connection
> and lower the
> voltage and therefore current being applied to the device being driven. But
>
> it will not cause the fuse to blow. Fuses are inherently current sensitive.
>
> Check the voltage being applied to the two devices. You may find that the
> voltage is high in the one blowing the fuses. If so, your bad connection
> will
> be in the one that is not blowing fuses.
>
> It's a thought.
>
> Good luck.
>
> Gary
>
> Working on my HRII fuselage.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
I am stating the obvious here but just in case .... Is there any **remote**
chance that the wiring of either the male plug or the female socket can
short to the airframe in bumpy weather? Just a tap and the fuse will be a
goner.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> tacaruth(at)ralcorp.com
> Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2004 9:29 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> description ---- ----------------------
> --------------------------------------------------
>
>
> I would check for a loose connection. Since fuses are designed to melt at
> a certain temperature, any external heat source would have a negative
> effect. A loose connection would have a higher resistance and would
> generate extra heat. You might also want to use slo-blowing fuses to
> eliminate nuisance tripping.
>
> Good Luck,
> Tom
>
>
> Louis Willig
>
> <larywil@comcast.
>
> net>
> To
> Sent by: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> owner-rv-list-ser
> cc
> ver(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Subject
> RV-List: Blown
> fuse-strange event.
>
> PM description ----
>
> ----------------------
>
>
> -----------------------------------
> Please respond to ---------------
>
> rv-list@matronics
>
> .com
>
>
> Hi guys,
>
> I have two cigarette lighter type power sockets in my RV-4. Both are
> breaker protected at 5 amps. #1 socket powers my GPS, and #2 socket powers
> my ANR headset. A few weeks ago, the 2 amp fuse contained in the
> male power
>
> plug of my GPS blew. I changed it and a few hours later, it blew
> again. The
>
> breaker on my panel never blew.
>
> I switched the two devices, and the GPS has worked fine. But today the ANR
> power plug fuse blew.
>
> The problem is not in the devices used but seems to be in the power
> socket/wiring system. How can this be? Any ideas before I spend three
> hours tearing apart my honey?
>
> Thanks in advance. Louis
>
>
> -
> Louis I Willig
> 1640 Oakwood Dr.
> Penn Valley, PA 19072
> 610 668-4964
> RV-4, N180PF
> 190HP IO-360, C/S prop
>
>
> If you are not the intended addressee indicated in this message (or
> responsible for delivery of the message to such person), you may not copy
> message and kindly notify the sender by reply email. Please advise
> immediately if you or your employer do not consent to internet email for
> messages of this kind.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jamesbaldwin(at)attglobal.net |
Subject: | Re: F-674 skin and back window (tip-up canopy) |
Would you please tell me where I can find all of Will's notes in general? Thank
you.
Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
> David Carter wrote:
>
> >
> > I've reviewed some msgs on trimming the glass and otherwise building the tip
> > up canopy. Is there a website or document that gives good A-Z instructions
> > that supplement the Vans manual on tip up canopy fabrication?
> >
> > David Carter
> > Riveting on the F-675 aft top skin!
> > Finish kit just inventoried
>
> David, a resource that is probably totally unknown to current builders
> is the set of notes compiled by Will Cretsinger:
>
> http://home.flash.net/~gila/wing_docs/canopy_notes2.htm
>
> Back in the middle/late 90's, Will's notes were a valuable complement to
> those of us muddling through the primitive Vans manual. No doubt there
> is still a lot of good info in Will's notes that would be helpful for
> builders of the pop-together kits.
>
> Here is another blast from the past, Frank Justice's notes:
>
> http://www.edt.com/homewing/justice
>
> I fear that many new builders fail to consider the older notes and
> websites and in so doing, pass over some valuable info.
>
> Hope this helps,
>
> Sam Buchanan
> "The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > .
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randy Jones" <disposable1(at)gpsconnection.com> |
Subject: | test post.. please disregard. (EOM) |
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | Re: F-674 skin and back window (tip-up canopy) |
jamesbaldwin(at)attglobal.net wrote:
>
> Would you please tell me where I can find all of Will's notes in general? Thank
> you.
Go to this link and scroll to the bottom of the page:
http://home.flash.net/~gila
Sam Buchanan
=======================
>
> Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
>
>>
>>David Carter wrote:
>>
>>
>>>
>>>I've reviewed some msgs on trimming the glass and otherwise building the tip
>>>up canopy. Is there a website or document that gives good A-Z instructions
>>>that supplement the Vans manual on tip up canopy fabrication?
>>>
>>>David Carter
>>>Riveting on the F-675 aft top skin!
>>>Finish kit just inventoried
>>
>>David, a resource that is probably totally unknown to current builders
>>is the set of notes compiled by Will Cretsinger:
>>
>>http://home.flash.net/~gila/wing_docs/canopy_notes2.htm
>>
>>Back in the middle/late 90's, Will's notes were a valuable complement to
>>those of us muddling through the primitive Vans manual. No doubt there
>>is still a lot of good info in Will's notes that would be helpful for
>>builders of the pop-together kits.
>>
>>Here is another blast from the past, Frank Justice's notes:
>>
>>http://www.edt.com/homewing/justice
>>
>>I fear that many new builders fail to consider the older notes and
>>websites and in so doing, pass over some valuable info.
>>
>>Hope this helps,
>>
>>Sam Buchanan
>>"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | F-674 skin and back window (tip-up canopy) |
From: | "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" <F.vanderHulst(at)ucol.ac.nz> |
I'm surprised that David Carter didn't mention it or check it out, but
my "Bunny's Guide to RV Building" site at
http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/bunnys-guide/rv/bunny/ includes my
notes (some from the RV list, some from my own experience) on building
an RV-6. In particular, click on "Finish Kit" in the menu then
(obviously?) click on "Canopy".
From the menu, choosing "Odds & Ends" followed by "References" gets you
a (perhaps somewhat dated?) list of RV construction pages, including
Will Cretsinger and Frank Justice.
Frank
(self-appointed compiler of the Bunny's Guide)
-----Original Messages-----
> Would you please tell me where I can find all of Will's notes in
general? Thank you.
> > I've reviewed some msgs on trimming the glass and otherwise building
> > the tip up canopy. Is there a website or document that gives good
> > A-Z instructions that supplement the Vans manual on tip up canopy
> > fabrication?
Learn real skills for the real world - Apply online
at http://www.ucol.ac.nz or call 0800 GO UCOL
(0800 46 8265) or txt free 3388 for more information
and make a good move to UCOL Universal College of
Learning.
Enrol with a public institute and be certain of your
future
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
Subject: | Re: Smart coupler |
FOR ARCHIVAL PURPOSES
David,
I pondered for some time how to connect the Garmin GPS-35 that I got with the Anywhere
Map system so that it could "run" the Nav-Aid coupler and keep the plane
on a GPS course that I had entered into the Anywhere Map.
I do have it working and while it is a bit awkward, it does work very well and
I have flown to OSH (1,006sm) and to the Mexican border (550sm) using it with
not a single 'hitch.'
Essentially what you need to do is to 'fish' out the lead from the Anywhere Map's
iPAQ that has the NMEA data on it...that will the the digital "off-course"
data that the Smart Coupler coverts to analog voltages to control the servo motor
that actually drives the plane.
If you take the plug end that goes INTO the iPAQ and look at it so that the little
rounded "hump" that exists on one of the longer sides is "up" you will see
(if you look closely) that there are 12 pins; They are numbered 1 though 12 from
left to right. The data you need for the smart coupler will come from the
iPAQ (or which ever PDA your are using) on pin #7. That wire in the cable in
your hand now that you want is the RED wire from pin #7 .....it has what is
called the RS-232 Transmit Data (from the SA1110) - I carefully opened the cable
about two feet back from the end that connects to the iPAQ and cut that red
wire. The side the leads back TOWARDS the GPS-35 can be taped and forgotten.
The red wire end that comes from the iPAQ end of the cable should be soldered
to a new wire so that you can connect it somehow into the Smart Coupler.
You MIGHT be able to get a breakdown of the iPAQ connections from http://ecece.com/info/ipagcradlemod/ipaqeradlemod.html if it is still active
Also the RV-List archives of Feb 21, 2002 at 0908CST has something that may help...I
made a note of it, but don't recall what it was.
The #4 and the #10 pins ( brown and green wires) of that plug's cable are ground
and can be connected to the mic receptacle so that ground is carried through
to the Smart Coupler and the aircraft's ground.
The way I did it (and there are endless other ways of doing it) was to run that
extended wire into a small cylinder which had its 'far end' blocked solidly
so I could put a mic panel receptacle in it. I connected the extended red wire
to that mic receptacle and taped things up solidly.
When I want to have the Anywhere Map/.GPS-35 combination fly the airplane I simply
plug a short cable that has a mic jack into that cylinder and the other end
into a mic receptacle that I have on the instrument panel...from that receptacle
I connect into the Nav Aid (mine has the internal Smart Coupler).
Sounds complicated but it isn't in reality...it does work just fine.
Hope this helps...contact me if more is needed.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | mark phipps <skydive80020(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Gascolator bracket for 6/6A |
Jeff, I cut the bracket to fit inside the stiffeners on my "6A" firewall, but I
did not add an additional piece of angle to the end of the bracket. Basically
the bracket is just a stiffener riveted to the firewall anyway. By the time you
bolt the gascolator to the nut plates through the bracket and the firewall
its really quite a strong assembly.
Mark Phipps, N242RP, electrical, panel, etc.
Jeff Orear wrote:
List:
I am "fix'n" to mount my gascolator for my 6A and have run into a snag. I have
received my firewall forward kit which is designed more for the 7/7A. The 6/6A
additions kit was also ordered. For the gascolator bracket, in the 7/7A, it fits
on the aft side of the firewall between the diagonal stiffener and the side
stiffener on the pax side. In the 6/6A, there is an additional diagonal stiffener
that prevents the gascolator bracket from sitting flush on the aft side
of the firewall.
What have other 6/6A builders done in this situation? My tentative plan is to cut
the bracket so that it will sit between the firewall diagonal stiffeners and
then add a 3/4 x 3/4 x .063 piece of angle to tie it to the additional diagonal
stiffener at the bracket's cut end. This, along with riveting the modified
bracket to the firewall should provide enough strength to support the gascolator.
Just thought I would run this by fellow builders before I go and ruin a perfectly
good part. Not that I have ever done that, mind you........
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P (res)
wiring, panel stuff, firewall stuff
Peshtigo, WI
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gabe A Ferrer" <ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Shake Rattle & Roll |
I posted the original request for help on my Lycoming shake rattle and roll on
shutdown.
I want to publicly thank Don Mei. His engine shutdown procedure works great.
Gabe A Ferrer
RV6 N2GX 111 hours
South Florida
Email: ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net
Cell: 561 758 8894
Night Phone: 561 622 0960
Fax: 561 622 0960
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Comeaux" <mcomeaux(at)bendnet.com> |
How does one go about to secure a N # online with the FAA?
Is there a web site on how to do it all...?
Regards Mike Comeaux
Final stages & paint
________________________________________________________________________________
go to Bill Von Danes site. He has a link to the FAA site.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | SNF Judging Results?? |
Has anyone seen the results of the SNF judging? I saw tons of nice planes,
but had not seen any postings of the judging results.... Just curious....
-Mike Kraus
N223RV RV-4 Flying
N213RV RV-10 Empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com> |
http://vondane.com/rv8a/nnumber.htm
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: <PSILeD(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Secure N #
go to Bill Von Danes site. He has a link to the FAA site.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Lyle Peterson" <lyleap(at)access4less.net> |
Try http://registry.faa.gov/aircraft.asp for information on
registering an aircraft or reserving an N number.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of PSILeD(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Secure N #
go to Bill Von Danes site. He has a link to the FAA site.
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
Subject: | SNF Judging Results?? |
Yes, the Glasair III 2003 OSH Grand Champion took the 2004 SnF Grand
Champion award.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of N223RV(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: SNF Judging Results??
Has anyone seen the results of the SNF judging? I saw tons of nice
planes,
but had not seen any postings of the judging results.... Just
curious....
-Mike Kraus
N223RV RV-4 Flying
N213RV RV-10 Empennage
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: canopy cover |
I don't know about Van's cover, but I purchased one from Bruce's Custom
Covers for my RV-4 and it is very nice. It is lined on the inside and Sunbrella
material on the outside and is of very good quality. I'm guessing it is not the
lightest or cheapest one out there, but I am very happy with it.
-Mike Kraus
N223RV RV-4 Flying
N213RV RV-10 Empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
Subject: | SNF Judging Results?? |
See ...
http://www.sun-n-fun.org/content/interior.asp?section=flyin&body 04_awards
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of N223RV(at)aol.com
> Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2004 10:26 PM
> To: vansairforce(at)yahoogroups.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: SNF Judging Results??
>
>
> Has anyone seen the results of the SNF judging? I saw tons of
> nice planes,
> but had not seen any postings of the judging results.... Just
> curious....
>
> -Mike Kraus
> N223RV RV-4 Flying
> N213RV RV-10 Empennage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow(at)hotmail.com> |
I'm considering purchasing a Fuselage jig used to build 3 RV-6s.
The question I have is: Will this work for an RV-8A
It is of made of Uni-strut and the name "Adjust-a-Jig" was mentioned.
Thanks,
ERic--
GodSpeed Aviation
RV-8A
Lose those love handles! MSN Fitness shows you two moves to slim your waist.
http://fitness.msn.com/articles/feeds/article.aspx?dept=exercise&article=et_pv_030104_lovehandles
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bruce Green <mailindex(at)juno.com> |
I have a 200hp, IO-360-A and the data plate says to time at 25BTDC but I
believe there is a service buliten that says to time it at 20BTDC. Any
ideas as to which way to do it?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Finn Lassen <finn.lassen(at)verizon.net> |
Subject: | Smoke system - nozzle size? |
I'm looking at installing a smoke system in my RV-3.
I've just browsed the archives.
The only question that remains is:
Recommended nozzle size?
I talked with a couple of guys at Sun'n'Fun and the recommendations were:
Start small and drill bigger and bigger until you find the right size.
But I have no idea what "small" means.
Finn
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
Subject: | Re: Ignition Timing |
The one mag on my AeroSport Power IO-360-A1B6 is timed to 20 BTDC (came that
way from Bart). If you look at the Lycoming operator's manual it shows a
few exceptions to the 25 BTDC rule in there.
I asked AeroSport about this a while back, and they also pointed me at the
operator's manual...believe it's on page 2-3.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Green" <mailindex(at)juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: Ignition Timing
>
> I have a 200hp, IO-360-A and the data plate says to time at 25BTDC but I
> believe there is a service buliten that says to time it at 20BTDC. Any
> ideas as to which way to do it?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Shake Rattle and Roll - The Genesis |
Well, you guys all have me blushing right now. The story of how I came up
with it is pretty interesting.
The first seed was planted when I was a 15 hr student pilot in a C-152
waaaayyyyy back in 2000. My instructor demonstrated how even with the
mixture set for idle cutoff the engine could start and kill you. We shut
the plane off by pulling the mixture. About 30 seconds later we spun the
engine and it fired for about second then died.
He explained to me that idle cutoff works by not actually shutting off the
fuel, but by blocking the breather in the carb. Thats why the reaction
isnt instantaneous while you are leaning. It takes a while for a vacuum to
be pulled inside the part of the carb affected.
About the same time I met a Lycoming rep at an event in Hartford called
Safetyfest. He gave me a book containing all of the Lycoming operating and
end user bulletins. I read it from cover to cover. Somewhere in the book
it recommends running at slightly elevated rpms with the mixture leaned to
clean off the plugs prior to shut down. Although strangely, the article
didnt mention anything about shutdown.
When I got my license and started flying the RV I noticed that if I leaned
very aggressively while on the ground my plugs and oil filter stayed very
clean. I leaned just very slightly short of roughness. I used this when
taxiing out before a flight as well as after a flight. It is not a safety
issue because when you do your run up, if you forget to enrich the mixture,
the engine stumbles at about 1100 rpm.
So Im taxiing in in the RV rolling these experiences in my head. My RV
shakes more than most on shut down (conical mount). I realized that part
of the shake is from the engine continuing to run intermittently on less
than 4 cylinders as a vacuum is gradually pulled on the carb when the
mixture is placed at idle cut off. Well, why not let the vacuum build up
prior to actual shutdown?? When I reached my hangar, I ran the engine up to
1000 rpm or so and leaned it to just a slight bit of stumble. Left it there
for 5 seconds and pulled quickly to idle cut off. Wow, no stumble, no
shake.
Don
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Smoke system - nozzle size? |
From: | "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net> |
My 2 nozzles are 7/64ths each.
I get good comments on my smoke.
Here are some shots of it in action:
http://www2.mstewart.net:8081/michael/rv/teamrv/waco03/index.htm
Also the videos on doug's site from a day or 2 ago from SnF04 have good
shots of the smoke. And that was crappy ole diesel in there.
Hollor if I can help on the smoke. I have been around the block on this
already. This system is my design based on lots of research.
You can read about some of my system on my website here:
http://www.mstewart.net/michael/rv/rvhome.htm
Go to flying/smoke
Enjoy
Kahuna
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Finn Lassen
Subject: [[SPAM]] RV-List: Smoke system - nozzle size?
I'm looking at installing a smoke system in my RV-3.
I've just browsed the archives.
The only question that remains is:
Recommended nozzle size?
I talked with a couple of guys at Sun'n'Fun and the recommendations
were:
Start small and drill bigger and bigger until you find the right size.
But I have no idea what "small" means.
Finn
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RiteAngle3(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re:Photos wanted of RiteAngle AOA |
Hi RV builders installing or flying the RiteAngle AOA system.
Are you proud of your aircraft?
I have had quite a few individual messages returned due to e-mail address
changes and felt this was one way to reach the largest group of
builders/flyers.
I am in the process of updating the photos of the RiteAngle AOA system
installed on aircraft on our website, Instructional CD and my photo book I'll
have
on display at AirVenture. I appreciate all photos, however those which show
the display,
Vane and / or a unique way of solving any problem related to RiteAngle AOA
system would be appreciated along with a full aircraft photo.
E-mailing these is fine, please give S/N of RiteAngle and approximate hours
flown if you are completed building and "in the air."
To those who have already replied, thanks!
Please contact off list.
Fly the Safe Angle with the RiteAngle
Elbie
EM Aviation, LLC
www.riteangle.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Elevator Trim Wire Routing? |
Fellow listers,
I need some advice on how to route the wiring from the fuselage to the
elevator trim motor. The lead screw in the Ray Allen servo extends into the hole
made for the manual trim, so that won't work. I am thinking of bypassing the
horizontal stab and running it through the 4130 horn bracket directly to the
back of the fuselage through some corrugated plastic armor and clamping it out
of
the way of any moving parts. The wiring I have for the feedback pot is 3
conductor shielded that is a little stiff, and I don't want it to have to bend
too tight or over too short of a distance.
Thanks in advance,
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (almost done)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Bruce,
You are refering to Service Bulletin 380A. This is for IO-360 C series
engines only. For your engine it remains at 25 BTDC.
Mike Robertson
>From: Bruce Green <mailindex(at)juno.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Ignition Timing
>Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 09:09:28 -0400
>
>
>I have a 200hp, IO-360-A and the data plate says to time at 25BTDC but I
>believe there is a service buliten that says to time it at 20BTDC. Any
>ideas as to which way to do it?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tracy Crook" <lors01(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: SNF Judging & SUN 100 Race |
Speaking of results,
How come all you 160 HP RVers stayed away from the Sun 100 race this year? There
weren't enough of us to form a class this time so I had to race against the
fast glass retractables, canards, etc. I came in third at 216.1 mph behind a
pair of Lancairs. Only .7 mph behind the 2nd place and beat a Glasair that came
in 4th.
Flew at 220 IAS but the high winds knocked the average down. Have not flutter
tested above 220 but would have been tempted to use a little of my reserve power
if I have known the 2nd place Lancair was that close.
Tracy (not victorious but God!, was that fun!)
Mazda 13B powered RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RiteAngle3(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: flying via AOA |
Has anyone really
flew by AOA reference NOT airspeed ??
In my admittedly biased opinion:
Most definitely, ask any Navy pilot that question.
When escaping windshear / microburst conditions in aircarriers the flight
director is driven by the AOA, it is the only way to be insured you are getting
the maximum performance out of the aircraft~~same goes with any aircraft if the
AOA is setup and indicating correctly. A 747 & an ultralight still rely on
lift derived from the airfoil, an AOA is a useful safety device on both, and all
in-between.
I tell my customers to use the AOA as a reference to know what airspeed to
fly. It is not feasible to have one change their flying habits since their first
flight overnight. As one gets used to the AOA it becomes more and more in
the scan, so that over time you are automatically at the correct airspeed for
the conditions as dictated by the AOA without actually being aware of it. This
is from comments from our customers. Remember the AOA is changing every time
you move the flaps. In my opinion an AOA should give warnings, both audio and
visually when below the "minimum safe" approach speed, well ahead of the
stalling angle so it takes only a small change in attitude to be back "safe"
again. Should you be distracted the audio warning will do this.
You will be amazed at the difference in approach speeds between your
aircraft loaded and at a light weight, 1/2 & full flaps etc.
Accidents are not planned. Safety has always been a hard sell, however, did
you ever know anyone who prior to flying said "I'm going to have an accident
today?"
Safety is no accident!
Contact off list if questions.
Elbie
www.riteangle.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry James" <larry(at)ncproto.com> |
Subject: | trim: springs vrs tabs |
I'm at another decision cross-roads and would like some input from those
experienced RV drivers. I'm deciding which kind of trim system to
incorporate for elevator; manual trim tab or servo trim tab, and aileron;
manual springs or servo trim tab. My primary decision drivers are
performance (in terms of light responsive controls) and simplicity (in terms
of weight and overall system complexity). These two drivers seem to be at
odds with one another, so a compromise is in order. Any good advice ??
Larry E. James (Bellevue, WA HR2)
New Concepts Prototyping and Production
phone 206 633 3111
fax 206 633 3114
larry(at)ncproto.com
This electronic message is intended only for the individual(s) to whom it is
addressed and may contain information that is privileged, confidential, or
exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you have received this
electronic message in error, would you please notify me immediately by
return email, or by telephone (collect). Thank you.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Power Vs Speed Vs altitude |
Airspeed and fuel flow data for a Lycoming 360 engine on a RV-6A is on my
website.
www.lessdrag.com
Open the Lycoming 360 propeller page.
Jim Ayers
In a message dated 04/12/2004 11:59:56 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com writes:
Has anyone done any testing at various power settings to see what air
speeds are obtained. I am trying to find "the wall" where more power really
does little in the way of more speed. Right now I cruise at 60% power, Alt
9500, and 160 knts TAS and 7.5 gal an hour. This seems to be kind of a
sweet spot. Does any one else have any cruise data. Power settings Vs fuel
flow Vs altitude etc. I am just looking for in the ball park figures.
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Finn Lassen <finn.lassen(at)verizon.net> |
Subject: | Re: Smoke system - nozzle size? |
Thanks Mike!
It's not clear how many gallons your tank holds, otherwise I'd ask how
many minutes of smoke you get with 2 * 7/64" holes as 14 psi.
So what is your flow rate?
Finn
Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta) wrote:
>
>My 2 nozzles are 7/64ths each.
>I get good comments on my smoke.
>Here are some shots of it in action:
>http://www2.mstewart.net:8081/michael/rv/teamrv/waco03/index.htm
>
>Also the videos on doug's site from a day or 2 ago from SnF04 have good
>shots of the smoke. And that was crappy ole diesel in there.
>
>Hollor if I can help on the smoke. I have been around the block on this
>already. This system is my design based on lots of research.
>
>You can read about some of my system on my website here:
>http://www.mstewart.net/michael/rv/rvhome.htm
>Go to flying/smoke
>
>Enjoy
>Kahuna
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Finn Lassen
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: [[SPAM]] RV-List: Smoke system - nozzle size?
>
>
>I'm looking at installing a smoke system in my RV-3.
>I've just browsed the archives.
>The only question that remains is:
>Recommended nozzle size?
>
>I talked with a couple of guys at Sun'n'Fun and the recommendations
>were:
>Start small and drill bigger and bigger until you find the right size.
>But I have no idea what "small" means.
>
>Finn
>
>
>=
>=
>=
>=
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | RE: Dynon D-10 EFIS AOA Question |
From: | "Swaney, Mark CAPT NAVAIRWARCENWPNDIV Bldg 36, Rm 2305" <mark.swaney(at)navy.mil> |
Rm 2305"
Pcondon,
I'm not flying with a Dynon yet, but from my Navy experience with AOA I think it's
most valuable with an indicator on the glareshield, such as is possible with
the PSS units. If you had a Pitot-Static system failure that only impacted
airspeed on your Dynon display, I imagine you'd still be able to fly cruise AOA's
fairly easily, but approach AOA would be more difficult - due to being heads
down. I think the biggest advantage of AOA is for a display failure and a
heads up reference during approach. I'm planning using a Dynon as B/U for my
EFIS/1, and also a PSS indicator on the glareshield. All 3 provide AOA.
Mark Swaney
F-1 Rocket (building slowly)
From: "pcondon" <pcondon(at)mitre.org>
Subject: RV-List: Dynon D-10 EFIS AOA Question
I am interested in the AOA feature on the Dynon but have reservations on the
indicator that presents the AOA data. I have stopped by the other AOA
purveyors and listened to the sales pitches. I guess I can swallow the
physics of the indicator and what it claims to measure. What I can't see is
the real case of flying by the AOA in the Dynon display. Has anyone really
flew by AOA reference NOT airspeed ?? Is the Dynon small yellow, green & red
bars really accurate enough to yield real enough data for "edge of stall"
flying ???
The reason I ask this is the other vendors have a rather large display with
graduations that seem more functional for actual flying by (that) reference.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: Automotive Spark Plugs |
From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Guys, there's a thread going on the Aeroelectric list about automotive spark plugs
used with electronic ignition systems. Apparently some folks have had trouble
with them, others no problems. The thread below says that Jeff Rose at Electroair
now recommends aircraft plugs...not sure why exactly?
I'm interested in input from any RV'ers out there running auto plugs in a Lycosaur...what
has been your experience? Specifically, I have a dual Lightspeed Plasma
II system on my O-360, and plan to use the plugs included with the system
by Klaus. Any input good or bad would be appreciated.
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iow
RV-8A N2D fwf stuff....
From: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net>
April 09, 2004 - April 21, 2004
RV-Archive.digest.vol-pe