RV-Archive.digest.vol-pf
April 21, 2004 - April 30, 2004
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: Automotive Spark Plugs |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Denis Walsh
I have been running Jeff Rose (Electroair) system on left drive for
about a thousand hours. No significant problems. I used auto plugs as
recommended by him for most of that time, but have used REM 37BYs for
the past few hundred hours, at his (changed) recommendation.
Never had any problem with the 386 or C86 Auto plugs lasting a hundred
hours or several hundred with cleaning and regapping. I did quit
regapping them and started discarding them when I discovered I was
probably damaging them when gapping them. At a buck apiece it was
smarter.
The airplane REM 37 BYs that I am now using are certainly sturdier, but
in my normal aspirated O-360 A1A, the auto ones were just fine, too.
Hope this helps your research.
Denis
> I talked
> to an engine builder at SnF who said the auto plugs are not holding up
> as well
> as the aviation plugs. Does anyone have several hundred hours of
> flying on
> auto plugs to substantiate or refute the claim?
>
> Stan Sutterfield
> RV-8A
> Tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: Automotive Spark Plugs |
You have the same set up as I do ignition wise, but add 9.2:1 pistons and
FI for the rest of the engine. I have had no problems in 103 hrs. By the
way I am runing lean of peak at cruise power settings if that makes a
difference? (Yes the cyl's have been matched to with in .2 GPH)
>
>
>Guys, there's a thread going on the Aeroelectric list about automotive spark
>plugs used with electronic ignition systems. Apparently some folks have had
>trouble with them, others no problems. The thread below says that Jeff Rose
>at Electroair now recommends aircraft plugs...not sure why exactly?
>
>I'm interested in input from any RV'ers out there running auto plugs in a
>Lycosaur...what has been your experience? Specifically, I have a dual
>Lightspeed Plasma II system on my O-360, and plan to use the plugs included
>with the system by Klaus. Any input good or bad would be appreciated.
>
>Thanks,
>
>--Mark Navratil
>Cedar Rapids, Iow
>RV-8A N2D fwf stuff....
>
>From: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net>
>Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Automotive Spark Plugs
>
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Denis Walsh
>
>I have been running Jeff Rose (Electroair) system on left drive for
>about a thousand hours. No significant problems. I used auto plugs as
>recommended by him for most of that time, but have used REM 37BYs for
>the past few hundred hours, at his (changed) recommendation.
>
>Never had any problem with the 386 or C86 Auto plugs lasting a hundred
>hours or several hundred with cleaning and regapping. I did quit
>regapping them and started discarding them when I discovered I was
>probably damaging them when gapping them. At a buck apiece it was
>smarter.
>
>The airplane REM 37 BYs that I am now using are certainly sturdier, but
>in my normal aspirated O-360 A1A, the auto ones were just fine, too.
>
>Hope this helps your research.
>
>
>Denis
>
>> I talked
>> to an engine builder at SnF who said the auto plugs are not holding up
>> as well
>> as the aviation plugs. Does anyone have several hundred hours of
>> flying on
>> auto plugs to substantiate or refute the claim?
>>
>> Stan Sutterfield
>> RV-8A
>> Tampa
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: Automotive Spark Plugs |
Why dosent somebody contact Jeff Rose and get the straight scoop?
>
>
>Guys, there's a thread going on the Aeroelectric list about automotive spark
>plugs used with electronic ignition systems. Apparently some folks have had
>trouble with them, others no problems. The thread below says that Jeff Rose
>at Electroair now recommends aircraft plugs...not sure why exactly?
>
>I'm interested in input from any RV'ers out there running auto plugs in a
>Lycosaur...what has been your experience? Specifically, I have a dual
>Lightspeed Plasma II system on my O-360, and plan to use the plugs included
>with the system by Klaus. Any input good or bad would be appreciated.
>
>Thanks,
>
>--Mark Navratil
>Cedar Rapids, Iow
>RV-8A N2D fwf stuff....
>
>From: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net>
>Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Automotive Spark Plugs
>
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Denis Walsh
>
>I have been running Jeff Rose (Electroair) system on left drive for
>about a thousand hours. No significant problems. I used auto plugs as
>recommended by him for most of that time, but have used REM 37BYs for
>the past few hundred hours, at his (changed) recommendation.
>
>Never had any problem with the 386 or C86 Auto plugs lasting a hundred
>hours or several hundred with cleaning and regapping. I did quit
>regapping them and started discarding them when I discovered I was
>probably damaging them when gapping them. At a buck apiece it was
>smarter.
>
>The airplane REM 37 BYs that I am now using are certainly sturdier, but
>in my normal aspirated O-360 A1A, the auto ones were just fine, too.
>
>Hope this helps your research.
>
>
>Denis
>
>> I talked
>> to an engine builder at SnF who said the auto plugs are not holding up
>> as well
>> as the aviation plugs. Does anyone have several hundred hours of
>> flying on
>> auto plugs to substantiate or refute the claim?
>>
>> Stan Sutterfield
>> RV-8A
>> Tampa
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: trim: springs vrs tabs |
Larry James wrote:
>
> I'm at another decision cross-roads and would like some input from those
> experienced RV drivers. I'm deciding which kind of trim system to
> incorporate for elevator; manual trim tab or servo trim tab, and aileron;
> manual springs or servo trim tab. My primary decision drivers are
> performance (in terms of light responsive controls) and simplicity (in terms
> of weight and overall system complexity). These two drivers seem to be at
> odds with one another, so a compromise is in order. Any good advice ??
Larry, your decision is not as hard as you think. :-)
Neither trim system will have any impact on the responsiveness of the
controls.
The manual systems are very simple, inexpensive, and work perfectly.
If you want trim controls on the control stick, you will need the
electric systems.
My RV-6 (565 hrs) has both manual elevator and aileron trims (I have
flown an RV with electric trims as well) and I have absolutely no
regrets about going this route, and have none of the problems often
associated with electric trims (regulating trim speed and sensitivity).
You will receive opinions from electric trim users that are opposed to
mine. :-)
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | enunciator panel |
| From: | "Bordelon, Greg" <gbordelon(at)hess.com> |
I am rebuilding my instrument panel and want to add an enunciator
panel/strip above my instruments to display alarms and such. I know I
can do this with LEDs/LAMPs and place markings above or below the lamps.
However, this is not quite what I want.
I want something like in our cars, where we have a strip that appears
black but when an alarm goes on it illuminates the wording or area
around the wording with red, amber or whatever lighting.
I've seen clusters of rectangular dark colored lamp assemblies before in
panels but a search on the Internet proves "no-joy" for me.
Anyone know a source of these items or have built such an enunciator
panel before?
Thanks - Greg
gbordelon(at)hess.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Imfairings(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: SNF Judging & SUN 100 Race |
Tracy,
Congratulations on your showing. Hope to get to SNF next year and see you
race!
Bob
Fairings-Etc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: enunciator panel |
Bordelon, Greg wrote:
>
>I am rebuilding my instrument panel and want to add an enunciator
>panel/strip above my instruments to display alarms and such. I know I
>can do this with LEDs/LAMPs and place markings above or below the lamps.
>However, this is not quite what I want.
>
>I want something like in our cars, where we have a strip that appears
>black but when an alarm goes on it illuminates the wording or area
>around the wording with red, amber or whatever lighting.
>
>I've seen clusters of rectangular dark colored lamp assemblies before in
>panels but a search on the Internet proves "no-joy" for me.
>
>Anyone know a source of these items or have built such an enunciator
>panel before?
>
>Thanks - Greg
>gbordelon(at)hess.com
>
You must have a lot of room in your panel!! 8-) . You can make your
own. The hard part is making the 'egg crate' to separate the lamps (or
LEDs) from each other. Go to a sign shop and get some 1/16" clear
plastic and some glue. Find a Brother Label Maker (like a p-touch) and
use clear lettering on black background ..... I think they have it that
way. Put all the 'words' in one strip to determine how long your
'egg-crate' will be and the spacing for the dividers between the words.
One or two spaces between words is sufficient. Paint the egg-crate flat
black. Lay the lettered strip between a clear front panel and the
egg-crate and mount the lamps any way you can. The LEDs will have a
nice bezel that will mount in a hole .... just use another strip of
plastic just like the front. All the other lights/holders will be large
so I would recommend the LEDs. Check out the different colors you can
get in LEDs too.
There are many ways to do what you want ..... just brainstorm with a few
Experimental friends .... we're creative and more so when we get together!!!
Linn
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | old vs. new nosewheel hardware |
Here's where I am in my efforts to replace bad wheel bearings in the -6A, after
talking to Van's builder assistance. DELETE if you don't have a nose wheel; this
couldn't possibly interest you, and you'll only be tempted to make disparaging
comments about my sissy gear ;-)
I evidently have the old Cleveland wheel on the front (If I were home right now
I could establish this with 100% certainty by looking). This means I have a
U-609 full-length aluminum axle and a pair of U-610 spacers (info gleaned from
the RV List archives). The newer hardware includes the Matco wheel and a pair
of stepped spacers without the axle.
My bearings are both bad, and the replacements I have gotten from Van's are of
a new type: Timken LM67000L-A, with the integral neoprene dust seal on the outside.
Both new and old bearings use the old cup, Timken # LM67010, and I have
these replacements as well (although, incredibly, Van's doesn't sell them, just
the bearings). Problem: new bearing is wider than old one, so old washers
and felt are too thick to fit inside the retaining ring that locks the bearing
into the wheel. Potential solutions: remove neoprene, risk damage to bearing
and defeat the anti-contamination feature. Buy new (matco)wheel and spacers.
Find old bearing and live with the lack of dust seal (risks repeat bearing failure
but is most attractive option at this point.) Problem: Timken part number
is worn away on my old bearings; Van's no longer stocks them, and the builder's
plans for the Cleveland nose wheel don't reference a part # for the bearing.
My best hope seems to be wandering down to the auto parts store with old
bearing in hand and looking pitiful at the counter guy; perhaps he can come up
with a cross reference from the dimensions. I am, of course, hoping someone
on the List has the old part # written down somewhere. I may end up having to
tear the neoprene off of the LM67000L-A's and "going retro."
Next chapter: I have the dreaded end-play in my gear leg; just a little, but it's
there. Gus tells me there are lots of -A's flying like that, and the cures
the factory has tried range from JB weld, to tack-welding, to oversize bolts
and welded-on gusset/doublers. They were not enthusiastic about taper pins, which
seem to me like an elegant potential fix... Unfortunately, the oversizing
bolt options all started with, "First, you'll have to pull the engine for access..."
Never mind. When the gear leg falls off, I will deal with it!
-Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | trim: springs vrs tabs |
Hi Larry and others
I would agree with Sam. I have manual trims on my four, and would not trade
them for the electric. I set the elevator trim lever just behind my
throttle quadrant and can just reach back with my thumb to adjust it. I fly
with my hand on the throttle most of the time. The aileron trim is the bog
simple springs on the stick. Doesn't need adjusting very often but works
just fine.
Joe Hine
Larry James wrote:
>
> I'm at another decision cross-roads and would like some input from those
> experienced RV drivers. I'm deciding which kind of trim system to
> incorporate for elevator; manual trim tab or servo trim tab, and aileron;
> manual springs or servo trim tab. My primary decision drivers are
> performance (in terms of light responsive controls) and simplicity (in
terms
> of weight and overall system complexity). These two drivers seem to be at
> odds with one another, so a compromise is in order. Any good advice ??
Larry, your decision is not as hard as you think. :-)
Neither trim system will have any impact on the responsiveness of the
controls.
The manual systems are very simple, inexpensive, and work perfectly.
If you want trim controls on the control stick, you will need the
electric systems.
My RV-6 (565 hrs) has both manual elevator and aileron trims (I have
flown an RV with electric trims as well) and I have absolutely no
regrets about going this route, and have none of the problems often
associated with electric trims (regulating trim speed and sensitivity).
You will receive opinions from electric trim users that are opposed to
mine. :-)
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 "Bounty Hunter" for sale |
Fellow Listers:
I am helping a friend sell his RV-4. It is a very nice airplane and has won
many awards including several air races. It's located in Park City, UT.
Here's a website we put together with all the information.
http://www.pressenter.com/~dougweil/N18TW/
Many thanks
Doug Weiler
pres, MN Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | ControlVision Hookup |
I'm using a ControlVision GPS setup to feed my Navaid. ControlVision used a
cigaret lighter plugin to power both the Garmin GPS receiver and the IPAQ
PDA. I wanted a more permanent setup so I ripped apart the cigaret lighter
plugin and made an interface box. Wiring up the Navaid autopilot to the
ControlVision setup wasn't difficult but took some time to find out the
appropriate wires. If anyone is going through the same puzzle, I'll share my
wiring diagram via email. My setup uses the external Smart Coupler rather
than the one built into the Navaid control unit but they are nearly the
same.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net> |
ControlVision uses a hand-held computer and a GPS receiver to make a GPS
setup for navigation. At Copperstate last year I say another company that
does about the same thing but I can't remember their name. Does this ring a
bell with anyone? I'm interested in using the EZ Pilot autopilot from Trio
but ControlVision doesn't supply the proper GPS signal for EZ Pilot and
apparently doesn't plan on doing so in the future.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | old vs. new nosewheel hardware |
> Next chapter: I have the dreaded end-play in my gear leg;
> just a little, but it's there. Gus tells me there are lots
> of -A's flying like that, and the cures the factory has tried
> range from JB weld, to tack-welding, to oversize bolts and
> welded-on gusset/doublers. They were not enthusiastic about
> taper pins, which seem to me like an elegant potential fix...
> Unfortunately, the oversizing bolt options all started with,
> "First, you'll have to pull the engine for access..."
Bill, are you talking about the play around the gear retention bolt
which goes through the motor mount and gear leg? If so, there can be
some relief had by putting in a close tolerance bolt (if it will go,
obviously - if not, it might be worth having a machine shop turn a few
tenths off from some bolts, rather than trying to get the gear hole
bigger). I pulled my nose gear for a general inspection after about 350
hours, and it was a bugger getting the bolt out. The bolt gets worked a
bit as the nose gear rotates back and forth. I might simply add
replacing that bolt to my annual, to prevent it from getting so bad that
it can't be removed.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 458 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Holland" <hollandm(at)pacbell.net> |
Just curious since I just invested in a hand held Halon based fire extinguisher
for my 9A project, whether anyone has rigged one of these for an engine fire?
Seems to me that with some sort of attachment via a detachable hose that runs from
the fire extinguisher to the forward side of the firewall it would be possible
to smother a fire, at least on the ground. Doubtful in the air.
Better still would be real world fire experiences anyone has had to share.
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie & Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: SNF Judging & SUN 100 Race |
Tracy Crook wrote:
>
>Speaking of results,
>
>How come all you 160 HP RVers stayed away from the Sun 100 race this year? There
weren't enough of us to form a class this time so I had to race against the
fast glass retractables, canards, etc. I came in third at 216.1 mph behind
a pair of Lancairs. Only .7 mph behind the 2nd place and beat a Glasair that
came in 4th.
>
>Flew at 220 IAS but the high winds knocked the average down. Have not flutter
tested above 220 but would have been tempted to use a little of my reserve power
if I have known the 2nd place Lancair was that close.
>
>Tracy (not victorious but God!, was that fun!)
>Mazda 13B powered RV-4
>
I wish I had known about the problem Tuesday evening. I would have
entered my -4 to help you make a separate RV class if I had known you
needed more RV's to be entered. Ed, Finn & I could have entered & that
would have solved the problem.
If you will send out a call next year, I'm sure that we can recruit a
few RV's to fill up your class.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Poor Man's GPS |
Albert Gardner wrote:
>
> ControlVision uses a hand-held computer and a GPS receiver to make a GPS
> setup for navigation. At Copperstate last year I say another company that
> does about the same thing but I can't remember their name. Does this ring a
> bell with anyone? I'm interested in using the EZ Pilot autopilot from Trio
> but ControlVision doesn't supply the proper GPS signal for EZ Pilot and
> apparently doesn't plan on doing so in the future.
> Albert Gardner
> RV-9A 872RV
> Yuma, AZ
The Controlvision AnywhereMap system does indeed supply the NMEA data
that is needed by the EZ-Pilot. The trick is to use a connection scheme
that will allow you to access the data line. Call Controlvision; they
can fix you up with the interfaces necessary to send NMEA to the EZ-Pilot.
Here is the link to my article on how I ran the Navaid (same NMEA data
as the EZ-Pilot) from my AWM.
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/ipaq.htm
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Smoke system - nozzle size? |
| From: | "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net> |
5 gallons, 2min, 35 sec.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Finn Lassen
Subject: Re: [[SPAM]] RV-List: Smoke system - nozzle size?
Thanks Mike!
It's not clear how many gallons your tank holds, otherwise I'd ask how
many minutes of smoke you get with 2 * 7/64" holes as 14 psi.
So what is your flow rate?
Finn
Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta) wrote:
>
>My 2 nozzles are 7/64ths each.
>I get good comments on my smoke.
>Here are some shots of it in action:
>http://www2.mstewart.net:8081/michael/rv/teamrv/waco03/index.htm
>
>Also the videos on doug's site from a day or 2 ago from SnF04 have good
>shots of the smoke. And that was crappy ole diesel in there.
>
>Hollor if I can help on the smoke. I have been around the block on this
>already. This system is my design based on lots of research.
>
>You can read about some of my system on my website here:
>http://www.mstewart.net/michael/rv/rvhome.htm
>Go to flying/smoke
>
>Enjoy
>Kahuna
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Finn Lassen
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: [[SPAM]] RV-List: Smoke system - nozzle size?
>
>
>I'm looking at installing a smoke system in my RV-3.
>I've just browsed the archives.
>The only question that remains is:
>Recommended nozzle size?
>
>I talked with a couple of guys at Sun'n'Fun and the recommendations
>were:
>Start small and drill bigger and bigger until you find the right size.
>But I have no idea what "small" means.
>
>Finn
>
>
>=
>=
>=
>=
>
>
>
>
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: old vs. new nosewheel hardware |
I would like to make a couple of comments on the loose gear leg at the engine
mount, and also on getting wheel bearings.
I discovered quite by accident that 5/16 drill bits are typically tapered.
The business end is about .002 inch bigger than the shank of the bit about
halfway up. All the old bits I could find around here were that way. Some old
machinists didn't believe me until they miked the bits themselves. When I
drilled my gear legs I took one of these bits, cut it off in a grinder and
resharpened it, and got a good fit to the bolts that came with my kit. Time will
tell
if this prevented the problem that you are having. Maybe it will help
someone else.
On getting bearings: There used to be a place called Bearings, Inc., but the
name has changed, and I don't know what the new name is. But, they
specialize in all types of bearings. You can take your old bearings to them and
if the
number is missing they will measure them and sell you replacements. Name
brands. They were about 1/4 the cost of the certificated bearings from Spruce.
I have no doubt that they are just as good.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A ( Finishing up -- will fly in a month or two.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Smoke system - nozzle size? |
What kind of oil are you using.
Cash Copeland
In a message dated 4/21/2004 4:37:34 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
mstewart(at)iss.net writes:
5 gallons, 2min, 35 sec.
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum to Nylon Tubing Transition |
>
>
>I'm intending to install a heated pitot, and know that I can't
>directly connect the flexible nylon style (NylaFlow) tubing to the
>pitot due to heat considerations. People have done this and have
>discovered that the heat from the pitot can melt the tubing ... which
>causes some minor problems. :) The NylaFlow tubing is much easier to
>work with than aluminum and at some point it pays to change to nylon
>if only for routing behind the panel (or so it seems to me).
There was a similar thread about two months ago.
My suggestion was to run a couple feet of thin-wall stainless
tubing from the heated pitot. Stainless is a crummy conductor. Anchor the
stainless to a rib with an Adel clamp to help suck away some of the heat.
A good way to bend thin wall stainless is to plug one end with wax
or duct seal, fill the tube with water, then freeze it solid. (The freezer
will do, but dry ice or LN2 is better.) You can bend is in a corkscrew and
it won't collapse. This is also a good way to bend one tube inside another
and have them stay concentric.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Lycoming 320 MT Propeller offer |
Hi All,
I am making the following offer for new MT Propellers for the Lycoming 320
engine. These are electric constant speed propellers. They do not require a
hydraulic governor, or any engine modification required to install a hydraulic
governor.
MTV-17-C/178-59 propeller. 70" dia. 2 blade electric constant speed
propeller.
List price $9,260 ex works Germany ($600 to $1,000 additional delivery cost).
Van's price $7,750 delivered to closest MT Assembly Facility in USA.
$7,350 Assembled in Southern California.
$7,350 delivered to closest MT Assembly Facility in USA
MTV-18-C/180-119d propeller. 70" dia. 3 blade electric constant speed
propeller.
List price $10,880 ex works Germany ($600 to $1,000 additional delivery cost).
Van's price $9,390 delivered to closest MT Assembly Facility in USA.
$8,700 Assembled in Southern California.
$8,700 delivered to closest MT Assembly Facility in USA
Contact Jim Ayers at jim(at)lessdrag.com for details. Or call 805-795-5377.
Jim Ayers
Less Drag Products, Inc.
MT Propeller Certified Assembly Facility - Southern California
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tracy Crook" <lors01(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: SNF Judging & SUN 100 Race |
Tracy,
Congratulations on your showing. Hope to get to SNF next year and see you
race!
Bob
Fairings-Etc
Thanks Bob. Replacing my crude gear leg intersection fairings with your lovely
parts certainly helped!
Tracy
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Smoke system - nozzle size? |
| From: | "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net> |
If Im paying, I use plain ole diesel fuel $1.75/gal.
If the air show is paying, they put in corvis oil at $4.50/gal.
Only a trained eye can tell the difference in a good smoke installation.
Diesel works just fine in a good installation. The pictures you are
probably looking at are diesel. SnF04 and the waco 03 pictures are
diesel.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of JusCash(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: [[SPAM]] RV-List: Smoke system - nozzle size?
What kind of oil are you using.
Cash Copeland
In a message dated 4/21/2004 4:37:34 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
mstewart(at)iss.net writes:
5 gallons, 2min, 35 sec.
Mike
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: Automotive Spark Plugs |
I have 230+ hours on my original set of auto plugs running on an Electroair
Ignition. No problems with plugs so far. Even if I had to replace them
every 100 hours, they would still be easier to deal with than aircraft
plugs.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: <czechsix(at)juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: AeroElectric-List: Automotive Spark Plugs
>
>
> Guys, there's a thread going on the Aeroelectric list about automotive
spark plugs used with electronic ignition systems. Apparently some folks
have had trouble with them, others no problems. The thread below says that
Jeff Rose at Electroair now recommends aircraft plugs...not sure why
exactly?
>
> I'm interested in input from any RV'ers out there running auto plugs in a
Lycosaur...what has been your experience? Specifically, I have a dual
Lightspeed Plasma II system on my O-360, and plan to use the plugs included
with the system by Klaus. Any input good or bad would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iow
> RV-8A N2D fwf stuff....
>
> From: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Automotive Spark Plugs
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Denis Walsh
>
> I have been running Jeff Rose (Electroair) system on left drive for
> about a thousand hours. No significant problems. I used auto plugs as
> recommended by him for most of that time, but have used REM 37BYs for
> the past few hundred hours, at his (changed) recommendation.
>
> Never had any problem with the 386 or C86 Auto plugs lasting a hundred
> hours or several hundred with cleaning and regapping. I did quit
> regapping them and started discarding them when I discovered I was
> probably damaging them when gapping them. At a buck apiece it was
> smarter.
>
> The airplane REM 37 BYs that I am now using are certainly sturdier, but
> in my normal aspirated O-360 A1A, the auto ones were just fine, too.
>
> Hope this helps your research.
>
>
> Denis
>
> > I talked
> > to an engine builder at SnF who said the auto plugs are not holding up
> > as well
> > as the aviation plugs. Does anyone have several hundred hours of
> > flying on
> > auto plugs to substantiate or refute the claim?
> >
> > Stan Sutterfield
> > RV-8A
> > Tampa
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming 320 MT Propeller offer |
I want one! ...will you take $100 down and $100 a month!?
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: <LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Lycoming 320 MT Propeller offer
Hi All,
I am making the following offer for new MT Propellers for the Lycoming 320
engine. These are electric constant speed propellers. They do not require
a
hydraulic governor, or any engine modification required to install a
hydraulic
governor.
MTV-17-C/178-59 propeller. 70" dia. 2 blade electric constant speed
propeller.
List price $9,260 ex works Germany ($600 to $1,000 additional delivery
cost).
Van's price $7,750 delivered to closest MT Assembly Facility in USA.
$7,350 Assembled in Southern California.
$7,350 delivered to closest MT Assembly Facility in USA
MTV-18-C/180-119d propeller. 70" dia. 3 blade electric constant speed
propeller.
List price $10,880 ex works Germany ($600 to $1,000 additional delivery
cost).
Van's price $9,390 delivered to closest MT Assembly Facility in USA.
$8,700 Assembled in Southern California.
$8,700 delivered to closest MT Assembly Facility in USA
Contact Jim Ayers at jim(at)lessdrag.com for details. Or call 805-795-5377.
Jim Ayers
Less Drag Products, Inc.
MT Propeller Certified Assembly Facility - Southern California
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tracy Crook" <lors01(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Power Vs Speed Vs altitude |
Has anyone done any testing at various power settings to see what air
speeds are obtained. I am trying to find "the wall" where more power really
does little in the way of more speed. Right now I cruise at 60% power, Alt
9500, and 160 knts TAS and 7.5 gal an hour. This seems to be kind of a
sweet spot. Does any one else have any cruise data. Power settings Vs fuel
flow Vs altitude etc. I am just looking for in the ball park figures.
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
"Sweet spot" depends on the relative value you put on speed and fuel economy.
My own sweet spot is at 152 kts (175 mph) at 12,500 ft burning 6.25 gph.
Another sweet spot definition is the point on the HP required vs IAS airspeed curve
of the aircraft that is tangent to a straight line drawn from the origin
(lower left corner of graph). This point turns out to be at about 130 - 135 mph
IAS on all RV types (3 - 6). This point does not change with altitude and
illustrates the increased efficiency at higher altitudes since any given IAS is
faster the higher you fly.
Tracy
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Smoke system - nozzle size? |
Thanks Mike, I was wondering if there was a substitute for corvis oil.
Cash
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Homebrew halon |
Mike, I'll attach 3 Word documents and send this to both the list and to
your e-mail address ched (RV-list will strip off the attachments)- the 3
docs are things that I copied and pasted from www.H3R.com's website. Go
visit the site.
I'm plannng on putting the spray "wands" in the engine compartment with a
"pull the cable" activation system.
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Holland" <hollandm(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: RV-List: Homebrew halon
>
> Just curious since I just invested in a hand held Halon based fire
extinguisher for my 9A project, whether anyone has rigged one of these for
an engine fire?
>
> Seems to me that with some sort of attachment via a detachable hose that
runs from the fire extinguisher to the forward side of the firewall it would
be possible to smother a fire, at least on the ground. Doubtful in the air.
>
> Better still would be real world fire experiences anyone has had to share.
>
> Thanks
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Poor Man's GPS |
Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
> Albert Gardner wrote:
>
>>
>>ControlVision uses a hand-held computer and a GPS receiver to make a GPS
>>setup for navigation. At Copperstate last year I say another company that
>>does about the same thing but I can't remember their name. Does this ring a
>>bell with anyone? I'm interested in using the EZ Pilot autopilot from Trio
>>but ControlVision doesn't supply the proper GPS signal for EZ Pilot and
>>apparently doesn't plan on doing so in the future.
>>Albert Gardner
>>RV-9A 872RV
>>Yuma, AZ
>
>
>
> The Controlvision AnywhereMap system does indeed supply the NMEA data
> that is needed by the EZ-Pilot. The trick is to use a connection scheme
> that will allow you to access the data line. Call Controlvision; they
> can fix you up with the interfaces necessary to send NMEA to the EZ-Pilot.
I need to correct the above post. It has been brought to my attention by
someone who has every reason to know what he is talking about that
AnywhereMap does *not* send all the NMEA data that is required for
proper operation of the EZ-Pilot.
I apologize for the incorrect response.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Holland" <hollandm(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Trigear Heat Muff Placement |
I assume I have the Robbins muff since it came with my Vetterman exhaust. Placement
on the left side is where I think Vans recommends. This placement provides
an effective heat shield for the fuel hose but complicates attachment of
the exhaust hangars to the engine case on that side.
Is there any problem with placing the muff on the crossover pipe between port 4
and 3 (in front of the sump)? About the only issue I can see is a long run from
the muff to the firewall.
Another question has to do with keeping this thing from moving or rattling around.
I understand there is some sort of high temperature cement that can be used
on exhaust systems. Is this true?
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harvey Sigmon" <rv6hes(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Trigear Heat Muff Placement |
Mike: I will try my hand at answering your question about the heat muff on
an tri gear, I have a RV-6A, I have the Robbins heat muff, but mine is one
the right side pipe. I use the Carburetor heat on the front cross over
pipe. The sump bolt I used was the second bolt inboard for the exhaust
hanger and it worked fine. The pipe hangers is located just aft of the weld
on the pipe aft of the heat muff. You said you was having trouble keeping
the muff tight on the pipes. After putting the assembly together with the
small rods and nuts using the hose clamps with the kit around the front and
aft end of the muff it is held secure. The two half stainless pieces that
come with the kit should be a perfect fit around the pipe. My system has
been together for 300 hrs and is still very snug. I hope this helps.
Harvey Sigmon RV-6A N602RV
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Holland" <hollandm(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: RV-List: Trigear Heat Muff Placement
>
> I assume I have the Robbins muff since it came with my Vetterman exhaust.
Placement on the left side is where I think Vans recommends. This placement
provides an effective heat shield for the fuel hose but complicates
attachment of the exhaust hangars to the engine case on that side.
>
> Is there any problem with placing the muff on the crossover pipe between
port 4 and 3 (in front of the sump)? About the only issue I can see is a
long run from the muff to the firewall.
>
> Another question has to do with keeping this thing from moving or rattling
around. I understand there is some sort of high temperature cement that can
be used on exhaust systems. Is this true?
>
> Thanks
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: Automotive Spark Plugs |
> I'm interested in input from any RV'ers out there running auto plugs in a
Lycosaur...what has been your experience? Specifically, I have a dual
Lightspeed Plasma II system on my O-360, and plan to use the plugs included
with the system by Klaus. Any input good or bad would be appreciated.
45 hours on a 200hp IO-360-A1B6 with a single LightSpeed Plasma II with the
stock automotive plugs. My only regret is that I think I wish I installed
dual Lightspeeds...
Just had the plugs out this afternoon to check condition and gap, and they
were all still fine. I gap 'em at .032".
This engine is running strong and smooth. No complaints.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Poor Man's GPS |
Well, there is some confusion here. My Navaid and Controlvision work fine
together but Jerry Hansen at Trio (EZ Pilot) says the data stream from
Controlvision lacks something essential so the EZ Pilot is not compatible
with Controlvision's Anywhere Map at present. Jerry also emailed me today
and said Trio met with Controlvision at Sun 'n Fun and Controlvision was
going to send them beta software to test '...within two weeks' so it sounds
like it's just a matter of time. Meanwhile another RV-9A builder here in
Yuma who has an EZ Pilot in his hand is going up with me this weekend to
compare the Navaid against the EZ Pilot. For this test we'll supply GPS data
from a handheld for the EZ Pilot and from my Controlvision for the Navaid.
The EZ Pilot plugs into the Navaid wiring harness so it will be easy to swap
units. I'll post what we discover.
Albert Gardner
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Poor Man's GPS
> The Controlvision AnywhereMap system does indeed supply the NMEA data
> that is needed by the EZ-Pilot. The trick is to use a connection scheme
> that will allow you to access the data line. Call Controlvision; they
> can fix you up with the interfaces necessary to send NMEA to the EZ-Pilot.
> Here is the link to my article on how I ran the Navaid (same NMEA data
> as the EZ-Pilot) from my AWM.
> http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/ipaq.htm
> Sam Buchanan
>>
> Albert Gardner wrote:
> > ControlVision uses a hand-held computer and a GPS receiver to make a GPS
> > setup for navigation. At Copperstate last year I say another company
that
> > does about the same thing but I can't remember their name. Does this
ring a
> > bell with anyone? I'm interested in using the EZ Pilot autopilot from
Trio
> > but ControlVision doesn't supply the proper GPS signal for EZ Pilot and
> > apparently doesn't plan on doing so in the future.
> > Albert Gardner
> > RV-9A 872RV
> > Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: Automotive Spark Plugs |
[snip]
> Why dosent somebody contact Jeff Rose and get the straight scoop?
>
>
Scott, I did so about a year ago. Just posted some comments from memory. You
are right, anyone that wants to really know should just call him. He is
agreat guy and will take the time to explain exactly why he recommends
certain things for his product.
Of course, I would not recommend calling him to ask why its "OK" to run
automotive plugs on Klaus' system. :-)
James
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: Automotive Spark Plugs |
[snip]
> Guys, there's a thread going on the Aeroelectric list about
> automotive spark plugs used with electronic ignition systems.
> Apparently some folks have had trouble with them, others no
> problems. The thread below says that Jeff Rose at Electroair now
> recommends aircraft plugs...not sure why exactly?
Jeff found that the REM37BY's deliver another ~4HP if I recall correctly.
Better spark distribution or something of that matter.
I spoke with him at length about this and discovered that he was a proponent
of automotive plugs "way back when" ... even used to turn them on a lathe I
think to make them fit better.
He also discovered something about flame propagation that was not as good
with the automotive plugs. Give him a call and he will gladly fill you in on
why he recommends aircraft pugs on the ElectroAir EI systems. Of course
Klaus recommends the automotive plugs.
I swapped out our REM37BYs for some Autolite 386's. It did appear that there
was a little less power **BUT** that *might* have just benn my imagination.
Maybe the power of suggestion.
For sure, the automotive plugs are in fact cheaper.
James
>
> I'm interested in input from any RV'ers out there running auto
> plugs in a Lycosaur...what has been your experience?
> Specifically, I have a dual Lightspeed Plasma II system on my
> O-360, and plan to use the plugs included with the system by
> Klaus. Any input good or bad would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iow
> RV-8A N2D fwf stuff....
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
I won't try to go into details but I was standing right next to the Trio
people and the ControlVision people when this dialogue occurred.
The conversation was as represented. If I were you, I would give them a few
weeks. ( A week or so for them to decompress from SnF and a week or two for
it all to be tested/sorted out.)
Disclaimer: I neither work for nor represent either company ... just
validating that they conversed on this matter.
James
[snip]
> Well, there is some confusion here. My Navaid and Controlvision work fine
> together but Jerry Hansen at Trio (EZ Pilot) says the data stream from
> Controlvision lacks something essential so the EZ Pilot is not compatible
> with Controlvision's Anywhere Map at present. Jerry also emailed me today
> and said Trio met with Controlvision at Sun 'n Fun and Controlvision was
> going to send them beta software to test '...within two weeks' so
> it sounds
> like it's just a matter of time. Meanwhile another RV-9A builder here in
[snip]
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming 320 MT Propeller offer |
In a message dated 04/21/2004 7:58:07 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
bill(at)vondane.com writes:
I want one! ...will you take $100 down and $100 a month!?
-Bill
It's better than that. NO MONTHLY PAYMENTS! 100% down
Just read the fine print. :-)
Jim Ayers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: Automotive Spark Plugs |
Forgot to mention below that I put the REM 37BYs back in after one or two
test flights.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of James E. Clark
> Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2004 12:24 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: AeroElectric-List: Automotive Spark Plugs
>
>
> [snip]
>
> > Guys, there's a thread going on the Aeroelectric list about
> > automotive spark plugs used with electronic ignition systems.
> > Apparently some folks have had trouble with them, others no
> > problems. The thread below says that Jeff Rose at Electroair now
> > recommends aircraft plugs...not sure why exactly?
>
> Jeff found that the REM37BY's deliver another ~4HP if I recall correctly.
> Better spark distribution or something of that matter.
>
> I spoke with him at length about this and discovered that he was
> a proponent
> of automotive plugs "way back when" ... even used to turn them on
> a lathe I
> think to make them fit better.
>
> He also discovered something about flame propagation that was not as good
> with the automotive plugs. Give him a call and he will gladly
> fill you in on
> why he recommends aircraft pugs on the ElectroAir EI systems. Of course
> Klaus recommends the automotive plugs.
>
> I swapped out our REM37BYs for some Autolite 386's. It did appear
> that there
> was a little less power **BUT** that *might* have just benn my
> imagination.
> Maybe the power of suggestion.
>
> For sure, the automotive plugs are in fact cheaper.
>
>
> James
>
>
> >
> > I'm interested in input from any RV'ers out there running auto
> > plugs in a Lycosaur...what has been your experience?
> > Specifically, I have a dual Lightspeed Plasma II system on my
> > O-360, and plan to use the plugs included with the system by
> > Klaus. Any input good or bad would be appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > --Mark Navratil
> > Cedar Rapids, Iow
> > RV-8A N2D fwf stuff....
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Smoke system - nozzle size? |
Interesting. Do you have complete pictures of your installation?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: trim: springs vrs tabs |
I switched from an aileron trim tab to the spring system on my 6. It was
easy to install, invisible, and works great. I dont think the ail trim tab
looks very good.
Im wondering if anyone uses a spring for rudder trim. It sure seems it
would work.
Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
68 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry James" <larry(at)ncproto.com>
Subject: RV-List: trim: springs vrs tabs
>
> I'm at another decision cross-roads and would like some input from those
> experienced RV drivers. I'm deciding which kind of trim system to
> incorporate for elevator; manual trim tab or servo trim tab, and aileron;
> manual springs or servo trim tab. My primary decision drivers are
> performance (in terms of light responsive controls) and simplicity (in
terms
> of weight and overall system complexity). These two drivers seem to be at
> odds with one another, so a compromise is in order. Any good advice ??
>
> Larry E. James (Bellevue, WA HR2)
> New Concepts Prototyping and Production
> phone 206 633 3111
> fax 206 633 3114
> larry(at)ncproto.com
>
> This electronic message is intended only for the individual(s) to whom it
is
> addressed and may contain information that is privileged, confidential, or
> exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you have received this
> electronic message in error, would you please notify me immediately by
> return email, or by telephone (collect). Thank you.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Whiteside" <erwhites(at)bellsouth.net> |
There was a product demo'ed at Sun-n-Fun called NAVAIR (www.airgator.com)
similar to Controlvision/Anywheremap. They also have optional in-flight
weather displays using XM
satellite radio broadcast. (special receiver and subscription required.) It
looked like
worthy competition to Anywheremap.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Albert Gardner
Subject: Re: RV-List: Poor Man's GPS
-->
Well, there is some confusion here. My Navaid and Controlvision work fine
together but Jerry Hansen at Trio (EZ Pilot) says the data stream from
Controlvision lacks something essential so the EZ Pilot is not compatible
with Controlvision's Anywhere Map at present. Jerry also emailed me today
and said Trio met with Controlvision at Sun 'n Fun and Controlvision was
going to send them beta software to test '...within two weeks' so it sounds
like it's just a matter of time. Meanwhile another RV-9A builder here in
Yuma who has an EZ Pilot in his hand is going up with me this weekend to
compare the Navaid against the EZ Pilot. For this test we'll supply GPS data
from a handheld for the EZ Pilot and from my Controlvision for the Navaid.
The EZ Pilot plugs into the Navaid wiring harness so it will be easy to swap
units. I'll post what we discover. Albert Gardner
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Poor Man's GPS
> The Controlvision AnywhereMap system does indeed supply the NMEA data
> that is needed by the EZ-Pilot. The trick is to use a connection
> scheme that will allow you to access the data line. Call
> Controlvision; they can fix you up with the interfaces necessary to
> send NMEA to the EZ-Pilot. Here is the link to my article on how I ran
> the Navaid (same NMEA data as the EZ-Pilot) from my AWM.
> http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/ipaq.htm
> Sam Buchanan
>>
> Albert Gardner wrote:
> > ControlVision uses a hand-held computer and a GPS receiver to make a
> > GPS setup for navigation. At Copperstate last year I say another
> > company
that
> > does about the same thing but I can't remember their name. Does this
ring a
> > bell with anyone? I'm interested in using the EZ Pilot autopilot
> > from
Trio
> > but ControlVision doesn't supply the proper GPS signal for EZ Pilot
> > and apparently doesn't plan on doing so in the future. Albert
> > Gardner RV-9A 872RV
> > Yuma, AZ
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum to Nylon Tubing Transition |
> Do you have any pictures of how you attached the aluminum tubing to the
> pitot tube. My Gretz heated pitot tube has only bare aluminum tubing
> coming off it.
It's just like any other AN flared connection.
My Gretz tube came with a very short length of tubing with a brazed/welded
flared male AN fitting on the end. I just flared the end of my aluminum
tubing and used AN fittings like anything else.
If you're not familiar with AN fittings, now's the time to learn! There are
lots more in your future... 8-)
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | DVOR 100 Information Needed |
Listers,
I posted this request on the Avionics-List with no result.
Does anyone have any information, schematic, pinout, or manual on the HT
Instruments DVOR 100 indicator? I probably won't put this in my plane, but would
like to play with it on the bench to learn how it works, and study the design
for my own curiosity.
Thanks,
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (almost done)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad Werner" <klwerner(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Need an GPS antenna... |
Bill,
While cleaning out my Inbox I found this email of yours: Did you ever find yourself
an antenna for your GPS.
If not, I do have one of the small black noncertified, but active GPS Antennas
that Gretz Aero sells.
Let me know at your convenience.
Konrad
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill VonDane
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com ; rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com ; vansairforce
Sent: Monday, March 01, 2004 11:02 AM
Subject: RV-List: Need an GPS antenna...
If any one of you fine folks out there have one of those little black Garmin
hockey puck GPS antennas that you're not going to be using, I sure could use
one...
Here's a photo of what I an looking for:
http://www.vondane.com/rv8a/gpsa.jpg
Thanks!
-Bill VonDane
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad Werner" <klwerner(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Need an GPS antenna... |
Bill,
While cleaning out my Inbox I found this email of yours: Did you ever find yourself
an antenna for your GPS.
If not, I do have one of the small black noncertified, but active GPS Antennas
that Gretz Aero sells.
Let me know at your convenience.
Konrad
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill VonDane
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com ; rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com ; vansairforce
Sent: Monday, March 01, 2004 11:02 AM
Subject: RV-List: Need an GPS antenna...
If any one of you fine folks out there have one of those little black Garmin
hockey puck GPS antennas that you're not going to be using, I sure could use
one...
Here's a photo of what I an looking for:
http://www.vondane.com/rv8a/gpsa.jpg
Thanks!
-Bill VonDane
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Vetterman exhaust systems |
| From: | <phil.jones(at)medpacs.com> |
I just recieved from Vans the Vetterman exhaust systems for my 7A which has a IO360.
To surprise it does not include the heat muff even though it costs the same
as ones with the heat muff and the web page on the heat muff said "This heat
muff is the same universal one that comes with our regular exhaust system.".
To my dismay Vans said the heat muff is not included because it does not fit
on the fuel injected engine, and sent me to talk to Vetterman. My question is
what is everyone doing to get cabin heat? This plane is going to be worthless
here in Wisconsin without cabin heat!
Phil Jones
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Electronics Guru |
vansairforce
Ok, I need some help... I want to roll my own 24v to 12v voltage reducer
and would like to talk to someone who know about these things...
Please contact me off list...
-Bill VonDane
bill(at)vondane.com
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Vetterman exhaust systems |
Phil,
I bought the firewall forward kit from Van's for my -7A and it came with the
heat muff. I don't think it is considered part of the exhaust system. There
may have been some miscommunications. My heat muff is on the right front
exhaust (no. 1 cyl.) and measures 8 inches long. May be a little short of heat,
but that's what the plans call for.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (almost done)
In a message dated 4/22/04 12:07:26 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
phil.jones(at)medpacs.com writes:
>
> I just recieved from Vans the Vetterman exhaust systems for my 7A which has
> a IO360. To surprise it does not include the heat muff even though it costs
> the same as ones with the heat muff and the web page on the heat muff said
> "This heat muff is the same universal one that comes with our regular exhaust
> system.". To my dismay Vans said the heat muff is not included because it does
> not fit on the fuel injected engine, and sent me to talk to Vetterman. My
> question is what is everyone doing to get cabin heat? This plane is going to
be
> worthless here in Wisconsin without cabin heat!
>
> Phil Jones
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vetterman exhaust systems |
Phil... My buddy has a Robbins heat muff on his IO360 and vetterman
exhaust... It seems to me there was only one place it would fit, but it did
fit...
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: <phil.jones(at)medpacs.com>
Subject: RV-List: Vetterman exhaust systems
I just recieved from Vans the Vetterman exhaust systems for my 7A which has
a IO360. To surprise it does not include the heat muff even though it costs
the same as ones with the heat muff and the web page on the heat muff said
"This heat muff is the same universal one that comes with our regular
exhaust system.". To my dismay Vans said the heat muff is not included
because it does not fit on the fuel injected engine, and sent me to talk to
Vetterman. My question is what is everyone doing to get cabin heat? This
plane is going to be worthless here in Wisconsin without cabin heat!
Phil Jones
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Vetterman exhaust systems |
Phil,
I forgot to mention that I have the IO-360-A1A angle valve engine, and it
fits just fine. I don't know why Van's would have told you that it doesn't fit.
Dan
In a message dated 4/22/04 12:36:12 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
Hopperdhh(at)aol.com writes:
>
>
>
> Phil,
>
> I bought the firewall forward kit from Van's for my -7A and it came with the
>
> heat muff. I don't think it is considered part of the exhaust system.
> There
> may have been some miscommunications. My heat muff is on the right front
> exhaust (no. 1 cyl.) and measures 8 inches long. May be a little short of
> heat,
> but that's what the plans call for.
>
> Dan Hopper
> RV-7A (almost done)
>
>
> In a message dated 4/22/04 12:07:26 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
> phil.jones(at)medpacs.com writes:
>
> >
> >I just recieved from Vans the Vetterman exhaust systems for my 7A which has
>
> >a IO360. To surprise it does not include the heat muff even though it costs
>
> >the same as ones with the heat muff and the web page on the heat muff said
> >"This heat muff is the same universal one that comes with our regular
> exhaust
> >system.". To my dismay Vans said the heat muff is not included because it
> does
> >not fit on the fuel injected engine, and sent me to talk to Vetterman. My
> >question is what is everyone doing to get cabin heat? This plane is going
> to be
> >worthless here in Wisconsin without cabin heat!
> >
> >Phil Jones
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Guys,
Take a look at this:
http://www.stopthenoise.org/problemindex.htm
This kinda stuff makes your blood boil. You read this kind of agenda and it's
easy to see that not only is GA under attack, but SPECIFICALLY recreational aviation.
Things aren't gonna get any easier for us to protect our flying rights.
Obviously groups like Stop the Noise need to be fought on legal and political
grounds, and AOPA is already doing this, but it's also a good reminder to
do everything we can (short of stop flying altogether) to avoid irritating people
unnecessarily.
Which brings up the question, has anyone fitted a good muffler to an RV that fits
inside the cowl and is reasonably light? I know this won't make radical anti-GA
people go away, but it would reduce our noise signature which would be nice
for both the folks on the ground and us in the cockpit. Europeans already
live under strict noise rules and their airplanes are pretty quiet, but I haven't
seen a muffler system on the market that would be a bolt-on item for the
RV series (except the -10, which does have a muffler).
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D finishing...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Stop the Noise |
There is another approach to making the engine quiet. A Electronic Ignition
causes a more complete combustion in the combustion chamber. This is why
your EGT temps go down and your CHT temps go up with EI. Burning the
air/fuel mixture in the engine instead of dumping still burning gas into
the exhaust system makes a big difference in the amount of noise put out.
Also the prop can make a lot of noise, I have the WW 151 and with the
smaller dia 68", and small tips it is very quiet. On take off people tell
me my IO-360 is much quieter than other RV's at the field. One guy even
made a comment it sounds more like a auto engine.
>
>
>Guys,
>
>Take a look at this:
>
>http://www.stopthenoise.org/problemindex.htm
>
>This kinda stuff makes your blood boil. You read this kind of agenda and
>it's easy to see that not only is GA under attack, but SPECIFICALLY
>recreational aviation. Things aren't gonna get any easier for us to protect
>our flying rights. Obviously groups like Stop the Noise need to be fought
>on legal and political grounds, and AOPA is already doing this, but it's
>also a good reminder to do everything we can (short of stop flying
>altogether) to avoid irritating people unnecessarily.
>
>Which brings up the question, has anyone fitted a good muffler to an RV that
>fits inside the cowl and is reasonably light? I know this won't make
>radical anti-GA people go away, but it would reduce our noise signature
>which would be nice for both the folks on the ground and us in the cockpit.
>Europeans already live under strict noise rules and their airplanes are
>pretty quiet, but I haven't seen a muffler system on the market that would
>be a bolt-on item for the RV series (except the -10, which does have a
>muffler).
>
>--Mark Navratil
>Cedar Rapids, Iowa
>RV-8A N2D finishing...
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
The first seed was planted when I was a 15 hr student pilot in a C-152
waaaayyyyy back in 2000. My instructor demonstrated how even with the
mixture set for idle cutoff the engine could start and kill you. We shut
the plane off by pulling the mixture. About 30 seconds later we spun the
engine and it fired for about second then died.
Guys,
just to clarify, this is an example of comparing apples to oil filters and
getting lucky.
The older smaller engines often used a bendix back suction carb where the
ambient float bowl pressure was altered as the means to vary mixture. This
was done with a rotory gate valve that ported between MAP and pre throttle
pressure.
These engines often won't shut down no matter what you do, but sometimes
they will if the idle is raised. They can then start at anytime, and won't
shut off until there is enough MAP to drop the bowl pressure back to cut
off.
Any carbs without this or a positive means to shut off the fuel flow will
run-on if the RPM is high enough such that the carb is running on the
transition ports as well as the idle port. This is common in cars with the
idle set to high.
Marvel-Schebler Carb's mixture control is a rotory cylinder valve that shuts
off all fuel flow to any of the jets when in idle cutoff postion. With a
Bendix/Presicision/RSA injected engine they have a positive fuel shut off
rotory gate valve which then seats the diaphram poppet valve, which then
seats the manifold valve, shutting off fuel flow right there.
Using a slightly elevated RPM on either of these causes the engine to run
out of gas more abruptly, which reduces the duration of the "poor running"
period.
Apparently the Airflow performance units do not always fully seat the
manifold valve without some means to dump the pre manifold valve pressure.
(I've tested this and they do produce a slight amount of flow at idle cut
off)
If any of the above other than the back suction or the Airflow Performance
are running on indefinately, then they are not in design parameters.
W
PS, Continental does injection very differently so this does not fully
apply.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Shake Rattle and Roll - The Genesis |
This is not true with our carbs. The mixture control is actually a valve
that controls the fuel directly. The old Strombergs that were used on
the small Continentals like the A65/75 did use such a mixture control
and they didn't work very well, in fact most of them were wired in the
rich position.
Dave Bristol -6 SoCal
EAA Technical Counselor
>
>He explained to me that idle cutoff works by not actually shutting off the
>fuel, but by blocking the breather in the carb. Thats why the reaction
>isnt instantaneous while you are leaning. It takes a while for a vacuum to
>be pulled inside the part of the carb affected.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum to Nylon Tubing Transition |
| From: | tacaruth(at)ralcorp.com |
04/22/2004 03:33:38 PM
Thanks, My pitot tube has "only bare aluminum tubing" about 2" long, no
fittings and no way to get fitting on them. I'm probably looking at a
compression fitting of some type.
Tom
"Dan Checkoway"
To
Sent by:
owner-rv-list-ser cc
ver(at)matronics.com
Subject
Re: RV-List: Aluminum to Nylon
04/22/2004 09:51 Tubing Transition
AM
Please respond to
rv-list@matronics
.com
> Do you have any pictures of how you attached the aluminum tubing to the
> pitot tube. My Gretz heated pitot tube has only bare aluminum tubing
> coming off it.
It's just like any other AN flared connection.
My Gretz tube came with a very short length of tubing with a brazed/welded
flared male AN fitting on the end. I just flared the end of my aluminum
tubing and used AN fittings like anything else.
If you're not familiar with AN fittings, now's the time to learn! There
are
lots more in your future... 8-)
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
If you are not the intended addressee indicated in this message (or
responsible for delivery of the message to such person), you may not copy
message and kindly notify the sender by reply email. Please advise
immediately if you or your employer do not consent to internet email for
messages of this kind.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <panamared3(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Stop the Noise |
I have done some extensive research on all of these groups. At first
glance I felt the exact same way that the below lister did. But upon
reflection, I can see the other side of the issue.
As one person wrote, every Saturday and Sunday morning, the Aerobatic box
over or near his house opens at 0800 and closes at dark, and as soon as one
plane leaves another enters the box. I love airplanes, but I do believe
that even I would eventually tire of this noise, especially if most of the
akro is bad Akro flying between 1500 and 2500 feet AGL.
They specifically state they are not trying to stop, commercial flights,
medical flights or private flights with a transportation purpose, they are
mostly against AKRO flights or training flights that stay in one place and
never go away.
One noise group has assigned tailnumber watchers with highpower telescopes
and cameras. They are the ones that want the 24" tailnumbers on the bottom
of the wings. My 3" tailnumbers are almost unreadable at 200 feet AGL,
hence the desire for 24" numbers.
When I used to fly Akro out of Houston, we did it out over the bay, not
over someone's country home or farm. Now I live in WV and I try and keep
my Akro work 5000 to 7000 feet AGL and limit my practice time to about 10
minutes. I also vary my practice area. My RV6 is the only Akro aircraft
at my airport, so I am not that hard to find once the complaints roll in.
I have had noise complaints about my flying over my farm. I live in the
mountains and the person making the complaint could not even see my
aircraft as I was below ridge top level. But, she could hear it. She
could not make an official complaint without an aircraft description or
tailnumber.
My point is: legally we can fly Akro 1500 feet AGL over sparsely populated
areas, but if we upset enough people the FAA Regulations can be changed to
our detriment. I understand the anger and frustration of the stop the
noise people. I am convinced, they will not stop until the aircraft noise
stops!
For the most part (unless they are growing something illegal) they don't
care if someone flies overhead as long as they don't hear it. We need to
fly friendly or become sailplane pilots.
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
At 01:03 PM 4/22/04, you wrote:
>
>
>Guys,
>
>Take a look at this:
>
>http://www.stopthenoise.org/problemindex.htm
>
>This kinda stuff makes your blood boil. You read this kind of agenda and
>it's easy to see that not only is GA under attack, but SPECIFICALLY
>recreational aviation. Things aren't gonna get any easier for us to
>protect our flying rights. Obviously groups like Stop the Noise need to
>be fought on legal and political grounds, and AOPA is already doing this,
>but it's also a good reminder to do everything we can (short of stop
>flying altogether) to avoid irritating people unnecessarily.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
| Subject: | SD-8 TEMPERATURE DATA |
RV-6 CRUISING AT 9300 FT DENSITY ALTITUDE, 2400 RPM
THE TEMPERATURE PROBE ATTACHED WITH ALUMINUM TAPE TO THE SD-8 REGULATOR
DATA RECORDING BEGAN AFTER 45 MINUTES OF FLIGHT
AT TIME :00 SD-8 ALTERNATOR SWITCHED ON AND MAIN ALTERNATOR SWITCHED OFF
TIME OAT - F REGULATOR - F
:00 43 86
:07 45 97
:12 45 100
:16 45 101
:19 45 101
:24 45 102
:28 45 101
:36 45 100
:43 45 99
LOAD ANALYSIS:
TYPICAL MAXIMUM
AMPS AMPS
ENG MONITOR 0.4 0.4
GPS 1.5 1.5
ALT ENCODER 0.2 0.3
TRANSPONDER 1.8 1.8
TURN COORDINATOR 0.4 1.0
INTERCOMM 0.2 0.2
EFIS 0.8 1.0
COMM RADIO 0.3 3.2
TOTAL 5.6 9.4
This data does not indicate a heat problem for this installation in which
the regulator is bolted directly to the firewall.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)rogers.com> |
Mark
A local builder here in Fredericton N.B. has built 4 RV's with an exhaust
system he builds up himself, including a muffler. There is one other 6
locally that copied his system. They work very well and are noticeably
quieter. He was considering marketing the system, but I don't think he has
done anything to follow up. All four pipes go to one muffler with an
exhaust pipe going out the bottom of the cowl. He did send some photos to
Vans a number of years ago and they were published in the rvator.
Joe Hine
RV4 C-FYTQ
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of czechsix(at)juno.com
Subject: RV-List: Stop the Noise
Guys,
Take a look at this:
http://www.stopthenoise.org/problemindex.htm
This kinda stuff makes your blood boil. You read this kind of agenda and
it's easy to see that not only is GA under attack, but SPECIFICALLY
recreational aviation. Things aren't gonna get any easier for us to protect
our flying rights. Obviously groups like Stop the Noise need to be fought
on legal and political grounds, and AOPA is already doing this, but it's
also a good reminder to do everything we can (short of stop flying
altogether) to avoid irritating people unnecessarily.
Which brings up the question, has anyone fitted a good muffler to an RV that
fits inside the cowl and is reasonably light? I know this won't make
radical anti-GA people go away, but it would reduce our noise signature
which would be nice for both the folks on the ground and us in the cockpit.
Europeans already live under strict noise rules and their airplanes are
pretty quiet, but I haven't seen a muffler system on the market that would
be a bolt-on item for the RV series (except the -10, which does have a
muffler).
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D finishing...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gabe A Ferrer" <ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim: spring vrs tabs |
I installed a manual elevator trim. Works great.
I had flown RV6's with electric elevator trim and I could not get used to their
sensitivity. Too fast for me.
May be due to my age?
Gabe A Ferrer
RV6 N2GX 111 hours
South Florida
Email: ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net
Cell: 561 758 8894
Night Phone: 561 622 0960
Fax: 561 622 0960
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
| Subject: | Electronics Guru |
We electronic types call what you want generically a voltage converter though technically
I suppose it is a series voltage
regulator circuit. Anyway...
The simplest and easiest way I know is to use a Series adjustable Voltage Regulator
Chip from National Instruments called
an LM317. With a given input voltage and the selection of a couple of resistors
and capacitors(for filtering) you can
create a simple device that will maintain a constant 12 VDC and ~ 1.5 Amps when
the input fluctuates between 13(1VDC above
output) and 36 VDC (upper limit I believe).
Radio Shack should have this and possibly have a circuit in one of their project
books.
I suspect however, that 'Google' will show you tons of premade units that are too
cheap to justify making your own.
But if you still want to 'roll your own'... go to: http://www.national.com/pf/LM/LM317.html There is a tab called
application notes. The link: http://www.national.com/an/AN/AN-181.pdf will show you a couple of sample circuits.
Regards,
Vince Himsl
RV8 - SB Finish
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill VonDane
Subject: RV-List: Electronics Guru
Ok, I need some help... I want to roll my own 24v to 12v voltage reducer
and would like to talk to someone who know about these things...
Please contact me off list...
-Bill VonDane
bill(at)vondane.com
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Electronics Guru |
Vince,
What if you wanted, say, 6 amps?
Dan RV-7A (almost done)
In a message dated 4/22/04 6:55:02 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
vhimsl(at)turbonet.com writes:
>
>
> We electronic types call what you want generically a voltage converter
> though technically I suppose it is a series voltage
> regulator circuit. Anyway...
>
> The simplest and easiest way I know is to use a Series adjustable Voltage
> Regulator Chip from National Instruments called
> an LM317. With a given input voltage and the selection of a couple of
> resistors and capacitors(for filtering) you can
> create a simple device that will maintain a constant 12 VDC and ~ 1.5 Amps
> when the input fluctuates between 13(1VDC above
> output) and 36 VDC (upper limit I believe).
> Regards,
> Vince Himsl
> RV8 - SB Finish
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Cours <rv-j(at)moriarti.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Stop the Noise |
Joe Hine wrote:
> A local builder here in Fredericton N.B. has built 4 RV's with an
> exhaust system he builds up himself, including a muffler. There is
> one other 6 locally that copied his system. They work very well and
> are noticeably quieter. He was considering marketing the system, but
> I don't think he has done anything to follow up. All four pipes go to
> one muffler with an exhaust pipe going out the bottom of the cowl. He
> did send some photos to Vans a number of years ago and they were
> published in the rvator.
I'm still a very long way from working on the exhaust system, but I've
been intrigued with the idea of a quiet airplane for some time, now. If
someone has the year, or approximate year, of the RVAtor, could you
please pass it along?
I'm not up to building a YO-3A, but I'd be overjoyed to get cabin noise
down to about the level of a cheap passenger car, and would probably be
willing to sacrifice a bit of speed to do it. I'm guessing the first
priorities are prop and exhaust noise, which may mean a small-ish or 3
blade prop and a pretty good muffler. Next would be some sound deading
or vibration suppression at the firewall, floor, and sides, and some
attention to sealing the gaps around the canopy.
- Jeff C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
I am curious to know if anyone has tried the "Swedish Muffler" referred to in "Firewall
Forward"?
Vince Himsl
RV8-SB Finish
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronics Guru |
For what .... or why? Where does the 24V come from? The simplest (but
heaviest, I think) would be to use two 12V batteries in series, and then
tap off the 12V to run whatever it is. A DC to DC converter will work
too, but it's been years (many :-P ) since I designed my last one. I
guess the answer lies somewhere between how much you want it to weigh
Vs. how much you want to spend!!!
Linn
Hopperdhh(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>Vince,
>
>What if you wanted, say, 6 amps?
>
>Dan RV-7A (almost done)
>
>
>In a message dated 4/22/04 6:55:02 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
>vhimsl(at)turbonet.com writes:
>
>
>
>>
>>We electronic types call what you want generically a voltage converter
>>though technically I suppose it is a series voltage
>>regulator circuit. Anyway...
>>
>>The simplest and easiest way I know is to use a Series adjustable Voltage
>>Regulator Chip from National Instruments called
>>an LM317. With a given input voltage and the selection of a couple of
>>resistors and capacitors(for filtering) you can
>>create a simple device that will maintain a constant 12 VDC and ~ 1.5 Amps
>>when the input fluctuates between 13(1VDC above
>>output) and 36 VDC (upper limit I believe).
>>Regards,
>>Vince Himsl
>>RV8 - SB Finish
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Daniels <jwdanie(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Stop the Noise |
How about these? http://www.aircraftexhaust.net/rv_exhaust.html
Jim Daniels
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
| Subject: | Electronics Guru |
If you have several unique items that require 12 VDC at ~1 AMP or less then make
the circuit below for each item. Avoids
single point of failure. Make extras for replacement. Else...
My requirements have always been met with LM317 circuit or similar variants. I
don't off the top of my head have a 'slick
chip' for higher currents. Others on list will probably have some suggestions
though my vote still is with buying a
voltage/power converter off the shelf at 'Digi-Key' or 'Newark' etc. especially
if it will power a radio, transponder, etc.
A note of caution: when I troubleshoot electronic instrumentation (university research),
I first check the power supply as
experience has shown me that is where most equipment failures originate. So unless
your circuit is right on in its design
and construction, don't use it on something necessary for the pucker factor free
continuation of your flight.
Regards,
Vince Himsl
RV8 - SB Finish
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Electronics Guru
Vince,
What if you wanted, say, 6 amps?
Dan RV-7A (almost done)
In a message dated 4/22/04 6:55:02 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
vhimsl(at)turbonet.com writes:
>
>
> We electronic types call what you want generically a voltage converter
> though technically I suppose it is a series voltage
> regulator circuit. Anyway...
>
> The simplest and easiest way I know is to use a Series adjustable Voltage
> Regulator Chip from National Instruments called
> an LM317. With a given input voltage and the selection of a couple of
> resistors and capacitors(for filtering) you can
> create a simple device that will maintain a constant 12 VDC and ~ 1.5 Amps
> when the input fluctuates between 13(1VDC above
> output) and 36 VDC (upper limit I believe).
> Regards,
> Vince Himsl
> RV8 - SB Finish
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
> I'm not up to building a YO-3A, but I'd be overjoyed to get
> cabin noise
> down to about the level of a cheap passenger car, and would
> probably be
> willing to sacrifice a bit of speed to do it. I'm guessing the first
> priorities are prop and exhaust noise, which may mean a
> small-ish or 3
> blade prop and a pretty good muffler. Next would be some
> sound deading
> or vibration suppression at the firewall, floor, and sides, and some
> attention to sealing the gaps around the canopy.
>
> - Jeff C.
The floor and side insulation helps a lot. The best way to quiet down
an RV is to fly real slow. The bulk of the noise at cruise is simply
white noise from air flow around the plane. The prop and exhaust noises
can be reduced if not eliminated via ANR (BTW, I use a Bose X and love
it. I tried a Telex top of the line headset last year, and it's ANR was
so good that I was uncomfortable not hearing any sign of the engine
rpm/power).
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 458 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Stop the Noise |
Great idea - unless you have a nosewheel (A) with FI......but they tell me
they're working on it...I'm hopeful!
SNIP
> How about these? http://www.aircraftexhaust.net/rv_exhaust.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie & Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Garmin Etrex Legend in the cockpit? |
I'm considering the Etrex Legend as a GPS driver for my IPAQ & as a
backup GPS with it's non-aviation mapping ability.
Is anyone out there currently using one? What are your experiences?
Thanks,
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie & Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronics Guru |
A 'switcher' is the most efficient method, but for cheap you can still
use the 317 to drive the base terminal of a high-current 'pass
transistor'. The application notes for the device will almost certainly
offer a design & parts list to achieve this.
Charlie
>
>Hopperdhh(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
>
>>
>>Vince,
>>
>>What if you wanted, say, 6 amps?
>>
>>Dan RV-7A (almost done)
>>
>>
>>In a message dated 4/22/04 6:55:02 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
>>vhimsl(at)turbonet.com writes:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>We electronic types call what you want generically a voltage converter
>>>though technically I suppose it is a series voltage
>>>regulator circuit. Anyway...
>>>
>>>The simplest and easiest way I know is to use a Series adjustable Voltage
>>>Regulator Chip from National Instruments called
>>>an LM317. With a given input voltage and the selection of a couple of
>>>resistors and capacitors(for filtering) you can
>>>create a simple device that will maintain a constant 12 VDC and ~ 1.5 Amps
>>>when the input fluctuates between 13(1VDC above
>>>output) and 36 VDC (upper limit I believe).
>>>Regards,
>>>Vince Himsl
>>>RV8 - SB Finish
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie & Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
Wheeler North wrote:
>
>The first seed was planted when I was a 15 hr student pilot in a C-152
>waaaayyyyy back in 2000. My instructor demonstrated how even with the
>mixture set for idle cutoff the engine could start and kill you. We shut
>the plane off by pulling the mixture. About 30 seconds later we spun the
>engine and it fired for about second then died.
>
>
>Guys,
>
>just to clarify, this is an example of comparing apples to oil filters and
>getting lucky.
>
>The older smaller engines often used a bendix back suction carb where the
>ambient float bowl pressure was altered as the means to vary mixture. This
>was done with a rotory gate valve that ported between MAP and pre throttle
>pressure.
>
>These engines often won't shut down no matter what you do, but sometimes
>they will if the idle is raised. They can then start at anytime, and won't
>shut off until there is enough MAP to drop the bowl pressure back to cut
>off.
>
>Any carbs without this or a positive means to shut off the fuel flow will
>run-on if the RPM is high enough such that the carb is running on the
>transition ports as well as the idle port. This is common in cars with the
>idle set to high.
>
>Marvel-Schebler Carb's mixture control is a rotory cylinder valve that shuts
>off all fuel flow to any of the jets when in idle cutoff postion. With a
>Bendix/Presicision/RSA injected engine they have a positive fuel shut off
>rotory gate valve which then seats the diaphram poppet valve, which then
>seats the manifold valve, shutting off fuel flow right there.
>
>Using a slightly elevated RPM on either of these causes the engine to run
>out of gas more abruptly, which reduces the duration of the "poor running"
>period.
>
>Apparently the Airflow performance units do not always fully seat the
>manifold valve without some means to dump the pre manifold valve pressure.
>(I've tested this and they do produce a slight amount of flow at idle cut
>off)
>
>If any of the above other than the back suction or the Airflow Performance
>are running on indefinately, then they are not in design parameters.
>
>W
>
>PS, Continental does injection very differently so this does not fully
>apply.
>
I've never looked inside the Bendix injection on the Lycs, but the best
hot-start procedure for me on both a 160 & an angle valve 200 (certified
installs) after an idle stop shutdown was to open the throttle fully
with the mixture at idle cutoff & crank a few blades until the engine
fires. To me, this implies that you shouldn't assume that idle cutoff
will stop fuel flow & prevent engine start (even though it won't
continue to run). This takes us back to the 1st paragraph above.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Garmin Etrex Legend in the cockpit? |
Charlie,
I have a Garmin eTrex Vista that I use for hiking. This particular model of
the eTrex has an atmospheric pressure sensing altimeter and an electronic
compass in it. I had planned to use it for a backup flying, but then I
bought a Garmin 196.
The eTrex is very small but it is designed to hold in your right hand to
squeeze buttons with your fingers and use a little joystick with your thumb.
I think it would be a bit awkward to use extensively in the cockpit, but it
sure would be nice to have along if everything else failed and you were
lost. The screen and text on the screen are quite small, which isn't a
problem hiking but might be flying. As a driver for the Ipaq, it might be
just fine.
Terry
I'm considering the Etrex Legend as a GPS driver for my IPAQ & as a
backup GPS with it's non-aviation mapping ability.
Is anyone out there currently using one? What are your experiences?
Thanks,
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren W Hurd <warren(at)ahyup.com> |
| Subject: | Fast Day Fly-In at EEN (Keene NH) |
Good Day RV builders and flyers,
We are having a small fly-in this Sunday at Keene Airport (EEN) from
10:00 until 2:00 The fly-in is called the "Fast Day Fly-In" after the
old NH Fast Day Holiday, so come help us celebrate. We will have burgers
and dogs on the grill. If the winds cooperate we will have the long
awaited "Flying upside down and mowing the grass with a RC helicopter
demo" So stop by and say hi. It would be fun to see some RV's
More info at http://www.ahyup.com/fast/
Thank You
Warren Hurd
RV builder 90454
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com> |
| Subject: | Garmin Etrex Legend in the cockpit? |
I used one for about two years and loved it. The only thing I did not like
was not having the aviation database in it and having to manually enter the
positions of all the airports in my area, but for the price difference
between it and any aviation unit I can't complain.
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Charlie & Tupper
England
Subject: RV-List: Garmin Etrex Legend in the cockpit?
I'm considering the Etrex Legend as a GPS driver for my IPAQ & as a
backup GPS with it's non-aviation mapping ability.
Is anyone out there currently using one? What are your experiences?
Thanks,
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Stop the Noise |
In a message dated 4/22/04 8:13:00 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
jwdanie(at)comcast.net writes:
>
> How about these? http://www.aircraftexhaust.net/rv_exhaust.html
>
> Jim Daniels
>
>
>
Looks great! Will the 4 into 1 fit a -7A? That should give a horsepower
gain. How much on an IO-360 200 hp? How do I get pricing?
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (almost done)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: trim: springs vrs tabs |
Van's RV-9 demonstator had one when I flew with Mike Seager- worked just fine
and I'll be installing one in my -6A (when I get a chance!)
Mark Phillips - 55 hours & still wrestling with wheelpants!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Electronics Guru |
Vince,
I certainly agree with everything you said. Power supplies are where most of
the heat and less reliable components are. They are usually simple in theory
and are taken perhaps a little too lightly.
I posted the question to be sure I gave the right reply to Bill's original
post offline. He wanted to power 12 volt landing lights from 24 volts. Not a
particularly easy load to drive.
Several others also gave good advice. Thanks to all who replied.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (finishing up)
In a message dated 4/22/04 8:28:28 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
vhimsl(at)turbonet.com writes:
>
> If you have several unique items that require 12 VDC at ~1 AMP or less then
> make the circuit below for each item. Avoids
> single point of failure. Make extras for replacement. Else...
>
> My requirements have always been met with LM317 circuit or similar variants.
> I don't off the top of my head have a 'slick
> chip' for higher currents. Others on list will probably have some
> suggestions though my vote still is with buying a
> voltage/power converter off the shelf at 'Digi-Key' or 'Newark' etc.
> especially if it will power a radio, transponder, etc.
>
>
> A note of caution: when I troubleshoot electronic instrumentation
> (university research), I first check the power supply as
> experience has shown me that is where most equipment failures originate. So
> unless your circuit is right on in its design
> and construction, don't use it on something necessary for the pucker factor
> free continuation of your flight.
>
> Regards,
>
> Vince Himsl
> RV8 - SB Finish
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Trampas" <tstern(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Electronics Guru |
When dealing with resistive loads like landing lights an easy solution is to
hook up two lights in series. The only problem here is that if one light
burns out it also causes second light not to work.
Regards,
Trampas Stern
www.sterntech.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Electronics Guru
Vince,
I certainly agree with everything you said. Power supplies are where most
of
the heat and less reliable components are. They are usually simple in
theory
and are taken perhaps a little too lightly.
I posted the question to be sure I gave the right reply to Bill's original
post offline. He wanted to power 12 volt landing lights from 24 volts. Not
a
particularly easy load to drive.
Several others also gave good advice. Thanks to all who replied.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (finishing up)
In a message dated 4/22/04 8:28:28 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
vhimsl(at)turbonet.com writes:
>
> If you have several unique items that require 12 VDC at ~1 AMP or less
then
> make the circuit below for each item. Avoids
> single point of failure. Make extras for replacement. Else...
>
> My requirements have always been met with LM317 circuit or similar
variants.
> I don't off the top of my head have a 'slick
> chip' for higher currents. Others on list will probably have some
> suggestions though my vote still is with buying a
> voltage/power converter off the shelf at 'Digi-Key' or 'Newark' etc.
> especially if it will power a radio, transponder, etc.
>
>
> A note of caution: when I troubleshoot electronic instrumentation
> (university research), I first check the power supply as
> experience has shown me that is where most equipment failures originate.
So
> unless your circuit is right on in its design
> and construction, don't use it on something necessary for the pucker
factor
> free continuation of your flight.
>
> Regards,
>
> Vince Himsl
> RV8 - SB Finish
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stop the Noise |
This is interesting but this web page doesn't have any contact information
or links to a home page. Any more information available.
Mike R.
>From: Jim Daniels <jwdanie(at)comcast.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Stop the Noise
>Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2004 19:12:09 -0600
>
>
>How about these? http://www.aircraftexhaust.net/rv_exhaust.html
>
>Jim Daniels
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | powering the anr headset from ships power |
Has anyone come up with a safe way to connect the Headsets anr kit to ships power?
It runs on a transistor batt and says not to connect to the plane due to
grounding. It would be nice to power it directly.
Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
68 hours
Chicago/Louisville
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Electronics Guru |
One can use a pass transistor to increase the current.
You can find many simple circuits in Google
Peter
>
> If you have several unique items that require 12 VDC at ~1 AMP or less
> then make the circuit below for each item. Avoids single point of
> failure. Make extras for replacement. Else...
>
> My requirements have always been met with LM317 circuit or similar
> variants. I don't off the top of my head have a 'slick chip' for
> higher currents. Others on list will probably have some suggestions
> though my vote still is with buying a voltage/power converter off the
> shelf at 'Digi-Key' or 'Newark' etc. especially if it will power a
> radio, transponder, etc.
>
>
> A note of caution: when I troubleshoot electronic instrumentation
> (university research), I first check the power supply as experience
> has shown me that is where most equipment failures originate. So
> unless your circuit is right on in its design and construction, don't
> use it on something necessary for the pucker factor free continuation
> of your flight.
>
> Regards,
>
> Vince Himsl
> RV8 - SB Finish
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Hopperdhh(at)aol.com To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV-List:
> Electronics Guru
>
>
>
> Vince,
>
> What if you wanted, say, 6 amps?
>
> Dan RV-7A (almost done)
>
>
> In a message dated 4/22/04 6:55:02 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
> vhimsl(at)turbonet.com writes:
>
> >
> >
> > We electronic types call what you want generically a voltage
> > converter though technically I suppose it is a series voltage
> > regulator circuit. Anyway...
> >
> > The simplest and easiest way I know is to use a Series adjustable
> > Voltage Regulator Chip from National Instruments called an LM317.
> > With a given input voltage and the selection of a couple of
> > resistors and capacitors(for filtering) you can create a simple
> > device that will maintain a constant 12 VDC and ~ 1.5 Amps when the
> > input fluctuates between 13(1VDC above output) and 36 VDC (upper
> > limit I believe). Regards, Vince Himsl RV8 - SB Finish
> >
>
>
> advertising on the Matronics Forums.
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
> ===
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Stop the Noise |
| From: | tacaruth(at)ralcorp.com |
04/23/2004 11:10:38 AM
Try
http://www.aircraftexhaust.net
Good Luck, Tom
"Mike Robertson"
To
Sent by: rv-list(at)matronics.com
owner-rv-list-ser cc
ver(at)matronics.com
Subject
Re: RV-List: Stop the Noise
04/23/2004 10:01
AM
Please respond to
rv-list@matronics
.com
This is interesting but this web page doesn't have any contact information
or links to a home page. Any more information available.
Mike R.
>From: Jim Daniels <jwdanie(at)comcast.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Stop the Noise
>Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2004 19:12:09 -0600
>
>
>How about these? http://www.aircraftexhaust.net/rv_exhaust.html
>
>Jim Daniels
>
>
If you are not the intended addressee indicated in this message (or
responsible for delivery of the message to such person), you may not copy
message and kindly notify the sender by reply email. Please advise
immediately if you or your employer do not consent to internet email for
messages of this kind.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stop the Noise |
Just take the tail end stuff off of the URL:
http://www.aircraftexhaust.net/
This page has contact info including the following:
Aircraft Exhaust Technologies, Inc.
FAA Repair Station # AHUR248X
1-800-770-7287
218-278-4858
Fax: 218-278-4859
Mike Robertson wrote:
This is interesting but this web page doesn't have any contact information
or links to a home page. Any more information available.
Mike R.
>From: Jim Daniels
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Stop the Noise
>Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2004 19:12:09 -0600
>
>
>How about these? http://www.aircraftexhaust.net/rv_exhaust.html
>
>Jim Daniels
>
>
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Beene" <kbeene(at)citilink.com> |
Mike,
The home page is:
http://www.aircraftexhaust.net
When a URL doesn't link back to the home page one can usually go to the
address line and remove the URL extension.
Ken
This is interesting but this web page doesn't have any contact information
or links to a home page. Any more information available.
Mike R.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Trampas" <tstern(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Electronics Guru |
Just use a simple switcher. After all with out a switcher at 3Amps the
24-12V converter using a LM317 or other linear regulating schemes would
require the regulator to dissipate 36 Watts, which is a reasonable amount of
power.
Regards,
Trampas Stern
www.sterntech.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
plaurence@the-beach.net
Subject: RE: RV-List: Electronics Guru
One can use a pass transistor to increase the current.
You can find many simple circuits in Google
Peter
>
> If you have several unique items that require 12 VDC at ~1 AMP or less
> then make the circuit below for each item. Avoids single point of
> failure. Make extras for replacement. Else...
>
> My requirements have always been met with LM317 circuit or similar
> variants. I don't off the top of my head have a 'slick chip' for
> higher currents. Others on list will probably have some suggestions
> though my vote still is with buying a voltage/power converter off the
> shelf at 'Digi-Key' or 'Newark' etc. especially if it will power a
> radio, transponder, etc.
>
>
> A note of caution: when I troubleshoot electronic instrumentation
> (university research), I first check the power supply as experience
> has shown me that is where most equipment failures originate. So
> unless your circuit is right on in its design and construction, don't
> use it on something necessary for the pucker factor free continuation
> of your flight.
>
> Regards,
>
> Vince Himsl
> RV8 - SB Finish
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Hopperdhh(at)aol.com To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV-List:
> Electronics Guru
>
>
>
> Vince,
>
> What if you wanted, say, 6 amps?
>
> Dan RV-7A (almost done)
>
>
> In a message dated 4/22/04 6:55:02 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
> vhimsl(at)turbonet.com writes:
>
> >
> >
> > We electronic types call what you want generically a voltage
> > converter though technically I suppose it is a series voltage
> > regulator circuit. Anyway...
> >
> > The simplest and easiest way I know is to use a Series adjustable
> > Voltage Regulator Chip from National Instruments called an LM317.
> > With a given input voltage and the selection of a couple of
> > resistors and capacitors(for filtering) you can create a simple
> > device that will maintain a constant 12 VDC and ~ 1.5 Amps when the
> > input fluctuates between 13(1VDC above output) and 36 VDC (upper
> > limit I believe). Regards, Vince Himsl RV8 - SB Finish
> >
>
>
> advertising on the Matronics Forums.
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
> ===
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Electronics Guru |
In a message dated 4/23/04 12:59:11 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
tstern(at)nc.rr.com writes:
>
>
> Just use a simple switcher. After all with out a switcher at 3Amps the
> 24-12V converter using a LM317 or other linear regulating schemes would
> require the regulator to dissipate 36 Watts, which is a reasonable amount of
> power.
>
> Regards,
> Trampas Stern
> www.sterntech.com
>
>
I'm not sure I follow, Trampas. 36 watts (actually the power of the 12 volt
light -- 55 watts since we are dropping the voltage in half) seems like a lot
of power to me. A simple switcher would dissipate much less. What are you
saying?
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (almost done)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | PM3000 Intercom For sale |
rv-list(at)matronics.com, vansairforce
I still have the PM3000 for sale, and I have put together a complete jack
kit for it...
http://www.vondane.com/forsale/index.htm
-Bill VonDane
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Stop the Noise |
I don't think I'm ready to scrap my current exhaust for a new one unless I
have to make a change anyway. I think a good noise reducing solution would
fit on the Vetterman exhaust that Vans endorses. I know of a motorbike type
that fits on the end of the exhaust that Vans sells. Has anyone used that
and liked it? (I agree that we need to be sensitive to noise to help not
rile those who would voice opposition to GA because of it.)
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
----- Original Message -----
From: <tacaruth(at)ralcorp.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Stop the Noise
>
>
> Try
>
> http://www.aircraftexhaust.net
>
> Good Luck, Tom
>
>
> "Mike Robertson"
> il.com> To
> Sent by: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> owner-rv-list-ser cc
> ver(at)matronics.com
> Subject
> Re: RV-List: Stop the Noise
> 04/23/2004 10:01
> AM
>
>
> Please respond to
> rv-list@matronics
> .com
>
>
> This is interesting but this web page doesn't have any contact information
> or links to a home page. Any more information available.
>
> Mike R.
>
>
> >From: Jim Daniels <jwdanie(at)comcast.net>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Stop the Noise
> >Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2004 19:12:09 -0600
> >
> >
> >How about these? http://www.aircraftexhaust.net/rv_exhaust.html
> >
> >Jim Daniels
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
I've never looked inside the Bendix injection on the Lycs, but the best
hot-start procedure for me on both a 160 & an angle valve 200 (certified
installs) after an idle stop shutdown was to open the throttle fully
with the mixture at idle cutoff & crank a few blades until the engine
fires. To me, this implies that you shouldn't assume that idle cutoff
will stop fuel flow & prevent engine start (even though it won't
continue to run). This takes us back to the 1st paragraph above.
Charlie
As I said, the fuel flow is shut off at the manifold valve. This leaves fuel
in the SS lines out to the injectors, which will eventually percolate out
into the intake and leave the proverbial round chambered...
To which I think we all agree, never play roulette with a propeller,
regardless of the fuel system that drives it.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel boiling in the injector lines.......again |
So I definitely have fuel boiling in the injectors or injector lines just
after landing. I have heat shielded everything, fire sleeve plus a
reflective sleeve! No difference. Then I went from .028 nozzles down to
.022 and that helped a lot by raising the system pressure in the injector
lines. After balancing the nozzles so all cylinders peak at the same time I
now have the problem back. I am worried about his coming summer. One recent
hot day (80) on final I went to throttle up to make it to the threshold and
nothing was there for about 2 seconds. I would have made the runway even if
the engine quit but I dont want to experience that! I think I will now
change my approach so I always have some power on this should be a temp
fix. Does anyone know of anybody, that has fixed this problem RV or not?
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronics Guru |
Remembered that there is a specific regulator chip for 12 VDC from National: LM340T-12
In the application note (http://www.national.com/an/AN/AN-103.pdf) it talks about a circuit for boosting the current
capability to 5 amps though it uses a 15 volt regulator as an example. Could probably
be modified to use the 12 VDC one.
An overview of linear regulators can be found at: http://www.maxim-ic.com/appnotes.cfm/appnote_number/751 This site also
has some application note discussions about powering LED lights. Many of us are
planning to use them so this might be of
general interest. This site also discusses 'batteries in the real world'. Though
they emphasize laptop batteries, it would
be informative to us builders.
Yes, I am a big fan of the National Instruments Site (http://www.national.com)! Other companies are Texas Instruments
http://www.ti.com) which acquired Burr-Brown, and Analog Devices (http://www.analogdevices.com/).
Only concern about 'switchers' i.e. switching power supplies is electronic noise
which may or may not wreak havoc on
radios. (not my specialty)
My last post on this subject as I spell guru with a very very small 'g'! {;)
Regards,
Vince Himsl
RV8 - SB Finish
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harvey Sigmon" <rv6hes(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: powering the anr headset from ships power |
Jeff: I have a kit headset ANR in my David Clark headset. I have an
English Friend that made me an adapter to connect the power supply to the
airplane through a converter module to drop the voltage to 9 Volts. Works
very well, if you would like I will try to get a diagram how to fabricate
one. He has converted about 85 headsets in the UK. I like mine as it plugs
into a jack in the panel and that way I can get away from that battery box.
Hope this helps.
Harvey Sigmon RV-6A N602RV
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: powering the anr headset from ships power
>
> Has anyone come up with a safe way to connect the Headsets anr kit to
ships power? It runs on a transistor batt and says not to connect to the
plane due to grounding. It would be nice to power it directly.
>
> Jeff Dowling
> RV-6A, N915JD
> 68 hours
> Chicago/Louisville
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Stop the Noise |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Jim,
Thanks for the heads up on these guys. I gave them a call and was told that their
crossover exhaust with mufflers which fits all the RV-6 thru 9 series, including
-A models, is $989 and includes dual heat muffs (around the mufflers),
exhaust hangers and gaskets. They claim a minimum of 6 db noise reduction and
much better cabin heat. On the downside it adds 3.5 lbs vs. the standard crossover
system without mufflers and you lose 2 hp at full throttle as tested on
a dyno. All in all, doesn't sound too bad. I've already got Vetterman's exhaust
system but am thinking about changing it for this one....I'll have to mull
it over for a bit. Extra heat would be nice here in Iowa, but in the -8A the
biggest problem is how to get the heat to the back seat...my biggest reason
would be for the noise reduction.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D fwf...
From: Jim Daniels <jwdanie(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Stop the Noise
How about these? http://www.aircraftexhaust.net/rv_exhaust.html
Jim Daniels
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Stop the Noise |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Jim,
Thanks for the heads up on these guys. I gave them a call and was told that their
crossover exhaust with mufflers which fits all the RV-6 thru 9 series, including
-A models, is $989 and includes dual heat muffs (around the mufflers),
exhaust hangers and gaskets. They claim a minimum of 6 db noise reduction and
much better cabin heat. On the downside it adds 3.5 lbs vs. the standard crossover
system without mufflers and you lose 2 hp at full throttle as tested on
a dyno. All in all, doesn't sound too bad. I've already got Vetterman's exhaust
system but am thinking about changing it for this one....I'll have to mull
it over for a bit. Extra heat would be nice here in Iowa, but in the -8A the
biggest problem is how to get the heat to the back seat...my biggest reason
would be for the noise reduction.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D fwf...
From: Jim Daniels <jwdanie(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Stop the Noise
How about these? http://www.aircraftexhaust.net/rv_exhaust.html
Jim Daniels
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "MSices" <msices(at)core.com> |
| Subject: | KX125 For Sale and other King odds and ends |
For Sale: Almost new KX125 14v Nav/Com with internal CDI. This unit has
been slid in and out of few times, but other than that it is new, and
guaranteed to work. Does not come with tray or connector, but I can get
those if you need em'. Also have a new KY97A 14v Comm and a KI-204 CDI in
new condition as well. KX125 - $1450, KY97A - $700, KI204 - $800. Thanks,
Mike Sices
RV8 N339JA
Kenosha, WI
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Daniels <jwdanie(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Stop the Noise |
> Jim,
>
> Thanks for the heads up on these guys. I gave them a call and was
> told that their crossover exhaust with mufflers which fits all the
> RV-6 thru 9 series, including -A models, is $989 and includes dual
> heat muffs (around the mufflers), exhaust hangers and gaskets.
Mark,
That's not as bad as I would have thought. I, too, already have the
Vetterman ready to go. This is just one of those sites I bookmarked
while browsing just in case and I tossed it out when the subject came
up. It gets pretty darn cold here in Albuquerque as well so it's worth
considering.
Jim
Fiberglass :(
http://home.comcast.net/~jwdanie/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Trampas" <tstern(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Electronics Guru |
Linear power supplies are devices which operate by limiting the voltage to a
circuit. For example let's imagine that you need 12V at 3Amps then you have
36 Watts power being drawn by the device. Now let's say you want a 24V to
12V regulator. If you use a linear regulator like the LM317 then you will be
drawing 3Amps from the 24V source, or 72Watts, but your only using 36Watts
for your device. So where did the other 36Watts go? Well the answer is of
course is that the regulator dissipated this power as heat.
The basic rule is that for a linear regulator like the 780x series or the
LM317 the amount of current out of the device is the same as the amount of
current into the device.
A switching regulator is a different animal completely. To understand a
switching regulator, imagine that you had a light bulb connected to the 24V
power supply. Well if you could switch the light bulb on and off really fast
such that you had the light on only 50% of the time then you would roughly
get the same output light as having it connected to a 12V power supply. The
problem of course is that you are switching really fast so you need to
filter the power with large capacitors and inductors to get a nice stable
power supply and reduce noise.
Now switching power supplies are usually around 80%-90% efficient, that is
for our 12V 3A power supply, we were using 36 Watts so if the regulator is
80% efficient it would draw 45 Watts from the 24V source or roughly 2Amps.
Thus the regulator would only need to dissipate 9 Watts of heat, compared
with 36 Watts for the linear regulator.
For a relative measure of Watts and heat, most household light bulbs are 60
Watts. The engine monitor I made draws about 12 Watts of power. An SD-8
alternator will produce about 96 Watts of power.
Thus a switcher regulator is a simple device and easy to build. If there is
an interest I can make a regulator and provide it as a kit to the group. The
kit would be about $30-$50.
Regards,
Trampas Stern
www.sterntech.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: powering the anr headset from ships power |
I would love to have that diagram too!. I love my DC headsets except for
that stupid battery thingy. Please put me on the interested list.
Thanks...Evan
www.evansaviationproducts.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Harvey Sigmon" <rv6hes(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: powering the anr headset from ships power
>
> Jeff: I have a kit headset ANR in my David Clark headset. I have an
> English Friend that made me an adapter to connect the power supply to the
> airplane through a converter module to drop the voltage to 9 Volts. Works
> very well, if you would like I will try to get a diagram how to fabricate
> one. He has converted about 85 headsets in the UK. I like mine as it
plugs
> into a jack in the panel and that way I can get away from that battery
box.
> Hope this helps.
> Harvey Sigmon RV-6A N602RV
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: powering the anr headset from ships power
>
>
> >
> > Has anyone come up with a safe way to connect the Headsets anr kit to
> ships power? It runs on a transistor batt and says not to connect to the
> plane due to grounding. It would be nice to power it directly.
> >
> > Jeff Dowling
> > RV-6A, N915JD
> > 68 hours
> > Chicago/Louisville
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: powering the anr headset from ships power |
I'm planning on ANR's too.....
Soooooo - me too!
Thanks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: powering the anr headset from ships power
>
> I would love to have that diagram too!. I love my DC headsets except for
> that stupid battery thingy. Please put me on the interested list.
> Thanks...Evan
>
> www.evansaviationproducts.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Harvey Sigmon" <rv6hes(at)comcast.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: powering the anr headset from ships power
>
>
> >
> > Jeff: I have a kit headset ANR in my David Clark headset. I have an
> > English Friend that made me an adapter to connect the power supply to
the
> > airplane through a converter module to drop the voltage to 9 Volts.
Works
> > very well, if you would like I will try to get a diagram how to
fabricate
> > one. He has converted about 85 headsets in the UK. I like mine as it
> plugs
> > into a jack in the panel and that way I can get away from that battery
> box.
> > Hope this helps.
> > Harvey Sigmon RV-6A N602RV
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net>
> > To:
> > Subject: RV-List: powering the anr headset from ships power
> >
> >
>
> > >
> > > Has anyone come up with a safe way to connect the Headsets anr kit to
> > ships power? It runs on a transistor batt and says not to connect to
the
> > plane due to grounding. It would be nice to power it directly.
> > >
> > > Jeff Dowling
> > > RV-6A, N915JD
> > > 68 hours
> > > Chicago/Louisville
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aerospace Logic Fuel level gage |
I have one, and I like it. It is the older, non-certified version, but
I don't know if it is really any different. Having all the colored LEDs
lit is not a distraction, providing the dimmer is turned down enough,
and the unit is not mounted front and center. Customer service from
them is excellent. I like the fact that it is calibrated in one gallon
increments, and has proved to be quite accurate.
Jeff Point
RV-6 N187CF 25 hrs
Milwaukee WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Tube bending 101 or Not! |
I'm starting the tedious job of plumbing fuel and break lines on my 7A. I just
cracked open my handy dandy tubing bender, the standard hand held lever type made
by Rigid. This thing is starting to get under my skin. After about 4 feet
of tube I can't make one bend without scaring the tube. I have tried to be a gentle
as I can, I even put a little oil on the bender and it still gouges the
tube.
What the heck is everyone using to bend soft aluminum for fuel and break lines.
This tool is a pile of !$#@ or I'm just really bad at this (not unlikely) but
I'll take any advice I can get on a tool that will do the job or a technique
to use with this tool.
Thanks,
Karie Daniel
RV-7A QB
Sammamish, WA
BTW..... Looks like I'll be staying in Washington, Austin just isn't ready for
me. :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tube bending 101 or Not! |
Karie,
For what it's worth, the tubing bender I have (not sure if it's the same
one) liked to put little gouges in the sides of the tubing as it did its
thing. In my case, it was that the black paint on the tool had chipped off,
and the chipped area was scratching (deeply) the soft tubing. I ended up
taking emery cloth and scotch brite to the grooves in the tool to make them
a little gentler on the tubing. It still leaves a bit of a mark, but it's
not bad.
Anyway, you may find you have to massage your tool a little bit (sorry,
couldn't help the pun) to get the results you want.
Best of luck,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Tube bending 101 or Not!
>
> I'm starting the tedious job of plumbing fuel and break lines on my 7A. I
just cracked open my handy dandy tubing bender, the standard hand held lever
type made by Rigid. This thing is starting to get under my skin. After about
4 feet of tube I can't make one bend without scaring the tube. I have tried
to be a gentle as I can, I even put a little oil on the bender and it still
gouges the tube.
>
> What the heck is everyone using to bend soft aluminum for fuel and break
lines. This tool is a pile of !$#@ or I'm just really bad at this (not
unlikely) but I'll take any advice I can get on a tool that will do the job
or a technique to use with this tool.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Karie Daniel
> RV-7A QB
> Sammamish, WA
>
>
> BTW..... Looks like I'll be staying in Washington, Austin just isn't ready
for me. :-)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tube bending 101 or Not! |
What you describe is exactly what I'm experiencing. I thought about just
taking the paint off of the tool also but I wanted to ask before investing
another inch of tube on this tool. Sounds like this is common, I'm just not
very happy with how this is turning out. My electronic fuel pump came from
Vans with a few lines already done and they looked very clean.
Thanks, I'll keep at it. (after I order another five feet of tube).
Karie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tube bending 101 or Not!
>
> Karie,
>
> For what it's worth, the tubing bender I have (not sure if it's the same
> one) liked to put little gouges in the sides of the tubing as it did its
> thing. In my case, it was that the black paint on the tool had chipped
off,
> and the chipped area was scratching (deeply) the soft tubing. I ended up
> taking emery cloth and scotch brite to the grooves in the tool to make
them
> a little gentler on the tubing. It still leaves a bit of a mark, but it's
> not bad.
>
> Anyway, you may find you have to massage your tool a little bit (sorry,
> couldn't help the pun) to get the results you want.
>
> Best of luck,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Tube bending 101 or Not!
>
>
> >
> > I'm starting the tedious job of plumbing fuel and break lines on my 7A.
I
> just cracked open my handy dandy tubing bender, the standard hand held
lever
> type made by Rigid. This thing is starting to get under my skin. After
about
> 4 feet of tube I can't make one bend without scaring the tube. I have
tried
> to be a gentle as I can, I even put a little oil on the bender and it
still
> gouges the tube.
> >
> > What the heck is everyone using to bend soft aluminum for fuel and break
> lines. This tool is a pile of !$#@ or I'm just really bad at this (not
> unlikely) but I'll take any advice I can get on a tool that will do the
job
> or a technique to use with this tool.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Karie Daniel
> > RV-7A QB
> > Sammamish, WA
> >
> >
> > BTW..... Looks like I'll be staying in Washington, Austin just isn't
ready
> for me. :-)
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Ford" <dford(at)michweb.net> |
| Subject: | dynon losing backup memory |
Not a big deal but has anyone been losing their clock memory on the Dynon since
the last software upgrade? It use to work fine and still have the A/C battery
hooked to backup line.
Dave Ford
RV6 N516D flying!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: dynon losing backup memory |
Everytime you access the Dynon with an external computer, you lose the clock
memory. It has always been this way. Once you reset the clock, it should not
reset until the next time you connect to it a computer....
-Mike Kraus
N223RV RV-4 Flying
N213RV RV-10 Empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: powering the anr headset from ships power |
Headsets, Inc., manufacturer of the popular ANR Retrofit Kits for David Clark headsets and others, sells a ready to install, panel-mounted 12 or 24 volt power adapter for the 9v ANR system (see http://www.headsetsinc.com/options_and_access.htm ). $49.00 each or $39 each when you purchase two.
I have two wired into my panel. Works great running the ANR off ship's power.
No battery boxes for me!
Jack Lockamy
Camarillo, CA
RV-7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tube bending 101 or Not! |
Karie, I liked to use the spring tube benders purchased from Avery Tools.
They always made any multi-angle bends a snap and no marks. Flying late
summer.......working cowl and wheel pants RV6-A!
Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Tube bending 101 or Not!
>
> I'm starting the tedious job of plumbing fuel and break lines on my 7A. I
just cracked open my handy dandy tubing bender, the standard hand held lever
type made by Rigid. This thing is starting to get under my skin. After about
4 feet of tube I can't make one bend without scaring the tube. I have tried
to be a gentle as I can, I even put a little oil on the bender and it still
gouges the tube.
>
> What the heck is everyone using to bend soft aluminum for fuel and break
lines. This tool is a pile of !$#@ or I'm just really bad at this (not
unlikely) but I'll take any advice I can get on a tool that will do the job
or a technique to use with this tool.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Karie Daniel
> RV-7A QB
> Sammamish, WA
>
>
> BTW..... Looks like I'll be staying in Washington, Austin just isn't ready
for me. :-)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
So you're are saying the Telex was better than the Bose? So much so,
you returned them?!
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
========================================
The floor and side insulation helps a lot. The best way to quiet down
an RV is to fly real slow. The bulk of the noise at cruise is simply
white noise from air flow around the plane. The prop and exhaust noises
can be reduced if not eliminated via ANR (BTW, I use a Bose X and love
it. I tried a Telex top of the line headset last year, and it's ANR was
so good that I was uncomfortable not hearing any sign of the engine
rpm/power).
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 458 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
Larry,
Telex was a generous sponsor of our Twin Cities RV Forum last year. I
already had been flying with a set of Bose X headsets for a couple years
in my RV, so the Telex rep and I hopped in my plane for some real time
comparisons. My honest assessment was this: The Telex utterly stopped
all pulsatile engine noise, so much so that it was unnerving, to me at
least. The Bose allow a low level of the engine noise to come through,
such that I have really gotten used to "hearing" the plane as subtle
changes in airspeed/power occur. My perception, and it may not be real,
is that there was more hissing (from airflow around the plane) allowed
through the Telex, but that would require instrumentation to determine.
I felt that the Bose were more comfortable, but that is something that
would take hours of comparison to really establish. I believe that the
Telex model we had was about $100 less than the Bose X, but don't recall
exactly. We talked about bringing some of their instrumentation aboard
to really nail it, but we haven't done so as yet.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 459 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
> -----Original Message-----
> So you're are saying the Telex was better than the Bose? So
> much so, you returned them?!
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
> ========================================
>
> The floor and side insulation helps a lot. The best way to
> quiet down an RV is to fly real slow. The bulk of the noise
> at cruise is simply white noise from air flow around the
> plane. The prop and exhaust noises can be reduced if not
> eliminated via ANR (BTW, I use a Bose X and love it. I tried
> a Telex top of the line headset last year, and it's ANR was
> so good that I was uncomfortable not hearing any sign of the
> engine rpm/power).
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> RV6-A N66AP 458 hours
>
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Schlotthauer" <rv7maker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tube bending 101 or Not! |
Karie,
You may want to get a spring type bender also. Some of the bends for the
fuel lines are pretty tough to get the lever type into and it is much easier
to just slip the spring over the tube and bend away. They keep you from
kinking the wall. I initially tried to use my lever type and ended up
going back and replacing several sections using the sping type.
Good luck,
Ross
Ross Schlotthauer
www.experimentalair.com
RV-7 Finishing
>From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Tube bending 101 or Not!
>Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2004 22:02:07 -0700
>
>
>Karie,
>
>For what it's worth, the tubing bender I have (not sure if it's the same
>one) liked to put little gouges in the sides of the tubing as it did its
>thing. In my case, it was that the black paint on the tool had chipped
>off,
>and the chipped area was scratching (deeply) the soft tubing. I ended up
>taking emery cloth and scotch brite to the grooves in the tool to make them
>a little gentler on the tubing. It still leaves a bit of a mark, but it's
>not bad.
>
>Anyway, you may find you have to massage your tool a little bit (sorry,
>couldn't help the pun) to get the results you want.
>
>Best of luck,
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net>
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Tube bending 101 or Not!
>
>
> >
> > I'm starting the tedious job of plumbing fuel and break lines on my 7A.
>I
>just cracked open my handy dandy tubing bender, the standard hand held
>lever
>type made by Rigid. This thing is starting to get under my skin. After
>about
>4 feet of tube I can't make one bend without scaring the tube. I have tried
>to be a gentle as I can, I even put a little oil on the bender and it still
>gouges the tube.
> >
> > What the heck is everyone using to bend soft aluminum for fuel and break
>lines. This tool is a pile of !$#@ or I'm just really bad at this (not
>unlikely) but I'll take any advice I can get on a tool that will do the job
>or a technique to use with this tool.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Karie Daniel
> > RV-7A QB
> > Sammamish, WA
> >
> >
> > BTW..... Looks like I'll be staying in Washington, Austin just isn't
>ready
>for me. :-)
> >
> >
>
>
http://travel.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | eregensburg(at)triad.rr.com |
| Subject: | Loaded IFR RV-6A for sale |
I will be selling my RV6A. Price $69,500
1992 RV6A TTSN 2590, SMOH 1151, Lyc O320 fixed Sensinch prop, KA134 audio panel,
Approach certified Garmin 300XL GPS/Com w/ extra card and subscription for updates
thru 1/2005, KX125 Nav/Com, AT 150 Transponder w/ altitude, KR86 ADF, Singtronix
SPA 400 intercom w/ music plug in, Digital tach, CHT, Oil Temp/pressure,
heated pitot and more. BUILT TO FLY IFR !!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: powering the anr headset from ships power |
Finally something I can post on that I know something about! :)
I ordered ANR upgrade kits for all my family's headsets, from
ANR Headsets. http://www.anr-headsets.com/
I was very very happy with them, and immediately knew I'd be wiring
them into the panel to be able to skip buying batteries.
They have information on their power supplies here:
http://www.anr-headsets.com/Html_folder/Power.html
You can buy these, and in the end, I think that's not a bad way to go
at all, as you'd save a lot of time and hassle, but, I wanted at
the time to save money and wire in a single main power supply
for all 4 headset jacks.
What it requires is a DC/DC converter to isolate the power for the
headsets from the rest of the eletrical system. What I did was
something like this:
- Inline fuse for the whole circuit, to protect the circuit from the
plane and the plane from my circuit.
- One 3 pin regulator (I used an LM2940 regulator for 1A of low-dropout
power) I regulated it to 12V incoming (I can't remember if I even left
this in the circuit in the final install, since the isolator can
handle spikes itself...I think I skipped it)
- One B100RW Series DC/DC converter from MicroPower Direct
This is the magic box that isolates the power systems.
- One more 3 pin regulator (The LM2940 would work, or any other 3 pin
regulator to regulate the output of the converter to 9VDC)
The power plugs used with the ANR kits are Switchcraft 146 L1 locking
plugs, so I then purchased some matching jacks. I can't seem to
find all of my information on these plugs for some reason, but
It's a really simple circuit...basically power and ground goes into
a couple of pins, and a couple of pieces tie together with not much
wiring, and then it comes out as power and ground that's isolated.
I could email some data sheets on these things, but thinking back to
the time when I put this stuff together...when I had plenty of time
on my hands, the research and sourcing of the parts was a pain,
so unless you have good connections from which to order, you're probably
best just buying the completed components from the links above.
Besides, many RV's are 2 seaters, so the cost per seat would maybe even
be higher than buying individual components. I think when I wire up
my -10 I'm going to just buy these jacks and install them, rather than
build it myself.
Hope this helps. You should be able to find the datasheets online
pretty easily, using the part numbers above, but if you get in a real
bind, send me and email and I'll send them to you.
Tim Olson
-=-=-
Tim Olson RV10 #170 - Wisconsin
RV-10 Empennage Kit - N104CD (reserved)
'77 Sundower Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Puckett" <rv8er(at)myawai.com> |
| Subject: | IO360-A3B6D oil cooler ports |
Does anyone know which port is the inlet and outlet on the dual mag
D-3000 version of the IO360 accessory case? The Lycoming operators
manual does not have an installation drawing of this. One port just to
the right of the spin on filter housing and one to the left in the
center of the accessory case.
Thanks,
Greg Puckett
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tube bending 101 or Not! |
I saw these springs at Home Depot last night for about six dollars. It just
looked too good to be true. For six bucks I'll give them a try.
Thanks,
Karie Daniel
RV-7A QB
Sammamish, WA.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tube bending 101 or Not!
>
> Karie, I liked to use the spring tube benders purchased from Avery Tools.
> They always made any multi-angle bends a snap and no marks. Flying late
> summer.......working cowl and wheel pants RV6-A!
>
> Tom in Ohio
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Tube bending 101 or Not!
>
>
> >
> > I'm starting the tedious job of plumbing fuel and break lines on my 7A.
I
> just cracked open my handy dandy tubing bender, the standard hand held
lever
> type made by Rigid. This thing is starting to get under my skin. After
about
> 4 feet of tube I can't make one bend without scaring the tube. I have
tried
> to be a gentle as I can, I even put a little oil on the bender and it
still
> gouges the tube.
> >
> > What the heck is everyone using to bend soft aluminum for fuel and break
> lines. This tool is a pile of !$#@ or I'm just really bad at this (not
> unlikely) but I'll take any advice I can get on a tool that will do the
job
> or a technique to use with this tool.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Karie Daniel
> > RV-7A QB
> > Sammamish, WA
> >
> >
> > BTW..... Looks like I'll be staying in Washington, Austin just isn't
ready
> for me. :-)
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Myers <jmyers(at)powernet.org> |
I also looked for Trio all week at SunNFun and also asked many
people. They must have been well hid. I went there intending to discuss
servo location with them and buy but couldn't find them. Where are 8
builders putting the roll servo? Any help.
Thanks Lucky for helpful comments regarding tubing bending and fuel plumbing.
John 8 in AL
At 10:07 AM 4/24/2004, you wrote:
>
>Trio was there and their product works great.
> Ollie---6A---Fl.
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <RV8ter(at)aol.com>
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Xcom @ SNF
>
>
> >
> > I went 3 days and looked for them and Trio as well and didn't see either.
> > I'd have bought from them if they had been there with a product as good as
>their
> > web site claims it to be. Frustrating.
> >
> > lucky
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Rosenberg" <ronr(at)medicalpmrg.com> |
Listers:
I've got a King KX155 w/ Glideslope, 28V. I'd love to use it in my RV3, but
I've heard conflicting stories on the workability of Step-Up converters from
14 to 28 volts.
Any thoughts??
Ron Rosenberg, PA, MPH
RV3 N9286T - Petaluma CA (O69)
Practice Management Resource Group, Inc.
www.medicalpmrg.com - (800)230-4923
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
John Myers wrote:
>
> I also looked for Trio all week at SunNFun and also asked many
> people. They must have been well hid. I went there intending to discuss
> servo location with them and buy but couldn't find them. Where are 8
> builders putting the roll servo? Any help.
>
> Thanks Lucky for helpful comments regarding tubing bending and fuel plumbing.
>
> John 8 in AL
>
> At 10:07 AM 4/24/2004, you wrote:
>
>>
>>Trio was there and their product works great.
>> Ollie---6A---Fl.
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: <RV8ter(at)aol.com>
>>To:
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Xcom @ SNF
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>I went 3 days and looked for them and Trio as well and didn't see either.
>>>I'd have bought from them if they had been there with a product as good as
>>
>>their
>>
>>>web site claims it to be. Frustrating.
>>>
>>>lucky
Guys, guys.......don't hyperventilate! Trio was at S-N-F but they have
been unable to purchase indoor booth space so they were sharing an
outdoor booth with another vendor. Maybe they will move up the que far
enough to have their own booth next year.
You can rest assured their product is every bit as good as they claim.
Give them a call or email and you will receive a prompt and thorough reply.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn(at)verizon.net> |
"rv-list"
| Subject: | SW Regional Fly-in |
BlankI'm going to a family wedding in Austin on friday May 14. Will be flying
American Airlines in on the 13th and leaving the 16th. Saturday was going to be
spent listening to wife, daughter and the rest talking. BUT, I have a rental
car and just found out the 46.7 miles south of Austin there is a fly-in at New
Braunfels. I can't bring N561FS but I will there on saturday. If you see an
ole fart with a Rocket hat and Apple Valley Air Corps shirt, introduce your self.
See ya'll. KABONG (GBA) 8*)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dane Sheahen" <dane(at)mutualace.com> |
To all RV Pilots:
Dick Martin and I are planning a trip to Alaska on Aug 2nd. (Day after
Oshkosh). Anyone interested in going please contact me or Dick Martin .
Tentative plans we will start from Chicago for me and Green Bay Wi. for
Dick and meet up on the way to Cutbank Montana the first day. Second day we
clear customs in Canada and head north. We are doing the IFR plan that is
"I Follow Roads" . You can Email me at the address below or call.
My Cell phone is 847-727-0026
dane(at)mutualace.com
Dane Sheahen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Beene" <kbeene(at)citilink.com> |
| Subject: | Conical Engine Brushings |
I am mounting an O-360-C1G on an RV-4. This is a conical engine. I need
the conical mount bushings. Aircraft Spruce sells a set of eight (non
PMA'd) for $39.50. Van's price is $300. Has anyone used the AS conical
bushings on an RV?
Thanks,
Ken
RV-6A N94KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net> |
Listers: Does anyone have a CAD drawing of a basic RV-6 panel. I have
TurboCAD 4 and would like to start planning out panel using this. Please
contact me directly if you can assist. Thanks. Marty in Brentwood, TN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie & Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Conical Engine Brushings |
Ken Beene wrote:
>
>I am mounting an O-360-C1G on an RV-4. This is a conical engine. I need
>the conical mount bushings. Aircraft Spruce sells a set of eight (non
>PMA'd) for $39.50. Van's price is $300. Has anyone used the AS conical
>bushings on an RV?
>
>
>Thanks,
>
>Ken
>
>RV-6A N94KB
>
Wag-Aero Group has a replacement set for Lyc p/n 71032 (their catalog #
1-982-000) for $28.50. They fit a lot of the O-320 -A & -B engines, so
they might fit the360 -C's as well. 800-558-6868
Charlie
(no affiliation with the company)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
| Subject: | Conical Engine Brushings |
Check archives for "all shook up" + "vibration".
Your mileage may vary.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ken Beene
> Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2004 8:57 PM
> To: 'Rv-List@Matronics. Com'
> Subject: RV-List: Conical Engine Brushings
>
>
> I am mounting an O-360-C1G on an RV-4. This is a conical engine. I need
> the conical mount bushings. Aircraft Spruce sells a set of eight (non
> PMA'd) for $39.50. Van's price is $300. Has anyone used the AS conical
> bushings on an RV?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ken
>
> RV-6A N94KB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Conical Engine Brushings |
Hi Ken,
There is a huge difference between the conical bushins that ACS sells and
the high dollar ones that Van's sells.
I've used both, here's the big difference. The "cheapos" are just plain
rubber biscuits. They work fine, but do wear out at a faster, higher rate
than the more expensive ones, and the engine will sag sooner.
The high dollar ones are Lord mounts which are cast rubber over metal
sleevers and are not perfectly symmetrical. They are almost like miniature
dynafocal mounts in the fact that they must be assembled in a certain way
and the two pieces need to be lined up.
Anyway, the LORD mounts are more money, but personally I like them. They
seem to be very high quality and a lot stiffer than plain rubber. The plain
rubber ones are fine, cheap and the benefit is you can replace them many
times before you reach the price of the Lord mounts. It basically comes
down to personal preference. I'd be fairly comfortable using either type.
Sounds like that -4 is coming along nicely!! How are you going to fly 2
planes at once?!?
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
Minneapolis.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ken Beene
Subject: RV-List: Conical Engine Brushings
I am mounting an O-360-C1G on an RV-4. This is a conical engine. I need
the conical mount bushings. Aircraft Spruce sells a set of eight (non
PMA'd) for $39.50. Van's price is $300. Has anyone used the AS conical
bushings on an RV?
Thanks,
Ken
RV-6A N94KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | MT Propeller sale |
Hi All,
First Annual MT Propeller Sale!
Anyone interested in buying a new MT Propeller?
Tell me what you engine and aircraft you want it for, and I'll provide a
quote.
Van's price delivers the MT Propeller to an MT Propeller assembly facility.
Assembly can cost between $300 to $800.
Less Drag Products, Inc. quoted price will typically be below Van's price,
delivered to your door.
Jim Ayers
Less Drag Products, Inc.
MT Propeller Certified Assembly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Wimmer <thomas.wimmer(at)web.de> |
| Subject: | RV-builders/-flyers in perth, AU? |
Hello
I'm a prospective builder from germany (still searching for a place to
build) and I am going to perth, australia for a couple of weeks next month.
Are there RVs (in various stages of completion or flying) at jandakot?
Thanks
Thomas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVEIGHTA(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: powering the anr headset from ships power |
I had my David Clark non ANR headset converted to ANR by Headsets, Inc. After
replacing the 9v battery numerous times, I finally bought the panel power
supply from Headsets, Inc and that problem has been solved. I believe the cost
for the panel power supply is around $35.
Walt Shipley
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: powering the anr headset from ships power |
can you make it work with other brand of headsets like light speed without
modifying the other brands?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ned Thomas" <923te(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: powering the anr headset from ships power |
I bought a 9V batterry eliminator for my ANR headset.It works fine. It
requires a typical cigar power outlet. The thing I like about it is that it
will power any 9V decvice, so when not using the headset I can use it in my
CD player. Check it out here:
http://www.qcavionics.com/BE-9.html
Your Fellow RV Enthusiast,
Ned
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
"'VAF SouthEast RV Squadron'"
| Subject: | MC5 Master cylinders |
I purchased two MC5 brake master cylinders with the internal reservoirs
to address the firewall clearance issues I was having. The ends are
different than the stock MC's from Van's, but I think they will work. I
have one loosely installed in these pictures. What do you think?
http://bowenaero.com/copper/thumbnails.php?album=search&search=MC5
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "sdavis12" <sdavis12(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel drawing |
Marty,
What format can TurboCAD read? I have a few I can send you in AutoCAD if
you will let me know what you are looking at in the way of instruments I can
include the drawings for those as well.
Steve Davis
The Panel Pilot in Memphis
Author of Kitlog Pro Builders Log Software
www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Panel drawing
>
> Listers: Does anyone have a CAD drawing of a basic RV-6 panel. I have
> TurboCAD 4 and would like to start planning out panel using this. Please
> contact me directly if you can assist. Thanks. Marty in Brentwood, TN
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bluecavu(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: powering the anr headset from ships power |
an adapter to connect the power supply to the
> airplane through a converter module to drop the voltage to 9 Volts.=A0 Works
> very well
I did the same thing -with about $5 worth of components from Radio Shack... a
cheap IC voltage regulator being the principal component...
Scott
N4ZW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bluecavu(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Tube bending 101 or Not! |
What the heck is everyone using to bend soft aluminum for fuel and break
>lines.
My hands/fingers... whenever possible -better results than any bender on the
soft stuff (3000 series)... works well on the 1/4" anyway -and largely
impossible for harder tubing. Learn to massage it correctly and it'll stay absolutely
round and have no kinks or scars. For the 3/8" I use a combination of
hands/fingers and tube bender (I fiddled with a tube bender and some sandpaper/files
to remove/smooth/round all the places on the bender that seemed to scar the
tubes...
Scott (A&P 15 years)
N4ZW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: MC5 Master cylinders |
Looks good, didn't know those existed!
Randy Lervold
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: RV-List: MC5 Master cylinders
>
> I purchased two MC5 brake master cylinders with the internal reservoirs
> to address the firewall clearance issues I was having. The ends are
> different than the stock MC's from Van's, but I think they will work. I
> have one loosely installed in these pictures. What do you think?
>
> http://bowenaero.com/copper/thumbnails.php?album=search&search=MC5
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted" <ted_french(at)telus.net> |
Take a look at: http://www3.telus.net/elfrench/panel.html
Ted
RV-6A flying
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Emrath
Subject: RV-List: Panel drawing
Listers: Does anyone have a CAD drawing of a basic RV-6 panel. I have
TurboCAD 4 and would like to start planning out panel using this. Please
contact me directly if you can assist. Thanks. Marty in Brentwood, TN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harvey Sigmon" <rv6hes(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: MC5 Master cylinders |
Larry: We used a similar arrangement of the earlier RV's they save a lot
of tubing, but you have a clearance to firewall problem and a pain to
service.The fluid overflows to the floor and below when servicing, you have
to stand on your head to reach. But I forgot you are a young guy with a
flexible back
Harvey Sigmon N602RV
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: RV-List: MC5 Master cylinders
>
> I purchased two MC5 brake master cylinders with the internal reservoirs
> to address the firewall clearance issues I was having. The ends are
> different than the stock MC's from Van's, but I think they will work. I
> have one loosely installed in these pictures. What do you think?
>
> http://bowenaero.com/copper/thumbnails.php?album=search&search=MC5
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | MC5 Master cylinders |
It was the firewall clearance problem using the *local* reservoir I was
trying to solve. These MC5's with the *internal* reservoirs do not
contact the firewall before the rudder hits the stop.
As far as servicing, I hope that will be limited to annuals, at which
time I can take the fwd baggage floor out and access them through the
baggage door. Am I being naive?
I was young when I started this project. Now I'm not so sure....
Thanks for your input.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
>
>
> Larry: We used a similar arrangement of the earlier RV's
> they save a lot of tubing, but you have a clearance to
> firewall problem and a pain to service.The fluid overflows to
> the floor and below when servicing, you have to stand on your
> head to reach. But I forgot you are a young guy with a
> flexible back Harvey Sigmon N602RV
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> >
> > I purchased two MC5 brake master cylinders with the internal
> > reservoirs to address the firewall clearance issues I was
> having. The
> > ends are different than the stock MC's from Van's, but I think they
> > will work. I have one loosely installed in these pictures.
> What do
> > you think?
> >
> > http://bowenaero.com/copper/thumbnails.php?album=search&search=MC5
> >
> > -
> > Larry Bowen
> > Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> > http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | MC5 Master cylinders |
>
>It was the firewall clearance problem using the *local* reservoir I was
>trying to solve. These MC5's with the *internal* reservoirs do not
>contact the firewall before the rudder hits the stop.
>
>As far as servicing, I hope that will be limited to annuals, at which
>time I can take the fwd baggage floor out and access them through the
>baggage door. Am I being naive?
>
>I was young when I started this project. Now I'm not so sure....
>
>Thanks for your input.
>
>-
>Larry Bowen
Larry,
I've had the dedicated reservoirs on the pedals for a few months now and
they're doing fine. They did seep some fluid initially from the tiny little
pinholes in the plugs but these are moving around a lot more than the
firewall mounted tank. I just cleaned up the drips and all is well. I
suppose those bronze mesh plugs would hold fluid better and not let out so
much fluid. Your installation should work great and I kinda wish I had
investigated them as well! I'm probably going to sell my -8 to a really
tall guy who needs the pedals moved forward. It won't happen with the
reservoirs on each pedal. Your pics show that the MC5's should take care of
that. Once the brakes are filled and bled, you shouldn't have to get down
there to the pedals very much. Most likely only during annuals. Can just
take out the baggage hold floor and reach in from the door. Going in
through the cabin is sheer murder on the back. That's one thing I won't
miss at all.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
Lose those love handles! MSN Fitness shows you two moves to slim your waist.
http://fitness.msn.com/articles/feeds/article.aspx?dept=exercise&article=et_pv_030104_lovehandles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
Yep. I found Trio at SNF by calling their office number,
which was routed to a cell phone at the booth. I was
about 50 yards away when I called. I bought the whole
system which will be shipped soon. Good guys.
I hope SNF figures out a way to add booth space to the
next show. It's often the new, small companies that
have the most interesting products.
Mickey
>Guys, guys.......don't hyperventilate! Trio was at S-N-F but they have
>been unable to purchase indoor booth space so they were sharing an
>outdoor booth with another vendor. Maybe they will move up the que far
>enough to have their own booth next year.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Conical Engine Brushings |
Not on a RV but I used them on my 601 XL and they are just fine.
Brett
>
> I am mounting an O-360-C1G on an RV-4. This is a conical engine. I
need
> the conical mount bushings. Aircraft Spruce sells a set of eight
(non
> PMA'd) for $39.50. Van's price is $300. Has anyone used the AS
conical
> bushings on an RV?
do not arcive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Sneed <n242ds(at)cox.net> |
Has anyone else had trouble with a EIS from Grand Rapids Technologies?
after 25 hours of trouble free operation the display started moving
from right to left a couple of digits. It then started getting worse,
jumping 4-5 digits every 5 min. or so of flying. GRT sent me a new unit
and all the problems went away, until today. The display has started
shifting from the right to the left again. So it seems as though after
25 hours or so of flight the EIS starts having trouble in my plane.
Greg really did not have an explanation for me at sun and fun and I was
hoping someone out there has had a similar problem and may have a fix.
Thanks,
Jason Sneed
Commercial Lending Officer
First National Bank and Trust
www.highland-parks.com/n242ds
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | MC5 Master cylinders |
Speaking of leaks -- These MC5's have a nylon cap screw with a small
hole in the middle. Remove the screw to fill, etc. I wonder how bad
these will leak through that vent hole. The system definitely needs to
be vented somehow, is that right? I guess if I keep it 75% full it will
be fine.........
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Brian Denk [mailto:akroguy(at)hotmail.com]
> Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2004 2:32 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: MC5 Master cylinders
>
>
>
> >
> >It was the firewall clearance problem using the *local*
> reservoir I was
> >trying to solve. These MC5's with the *internal* reservoirs do not
> >contact the firewall before the rudder hits the stop.
> >
> >As far as servicing, I hope that will be limited to annuals,
> at which
> >time I can take the fwd baggage floor out and access them
> through the
> >baggage door. Am I being naive?
> >
> >I was young when I started this project. Now I'm not so sure....
> >
> >Thanks for your input.
> >
> >-
> >Larry Bowen
>
> Larry,
>
> I've had the dedicated reservoirs on the pedals for a few
> months now and
> they're doing fine. They did seep some fluid initially from
> the tiny little
> pinholes in the plugs but these are moving around a lot more than the
> firewall mounted tank. I just cleaned up the drips and all
> is well. I
> suppose those bronze mesh plugs would hold fluid better and
> not let out so
> much fluid. Your installation should work great and I kinda
> wish I had
> investigated them as well! I'm probably going to sell my -8
> to a really
> tall guy who needs the pedals moved forward. It won't happen
> with the
> reservoirs on each pedal. Your pics show that the MC5's
> should take care of
> that. Once the brakes are filled and bled, you shouldn't
> have to get down
> there to the pedals very much. Most likely only during
> annuals. Can just
> take out the baggage hold floor and reach in from the door. Going in
> through the cabin is sheer murder on the back. That's one
> thing I won't
> miss at all.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> RV10 '51
>
> Lose those love handles! MSN Fitness shows you two moves to
> slim your waist.
> http://fitness.msn.com/articles/feeds/article.aspx?dept=exerci
se&article=et_pv_030104_lovehandles
=
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | MC5 Master cylinders |
>Speaking of leaks -- These MC5's have a nylon cap screw with a small
>hole in the middle. Remove the screw to fill, etc. I wonder how bad
>these will leak through that vent hole. The system definitely needs to
>be vented somehow, is that right? I guess if I keep it 75% full it will
>be fine.........
>
>-
>Larry Bowen
Sounds like the same plug that came in the machined reservoirs. Yes, they
*should* be vented to allow them to feed fluid if the need should arise.
Once mine dribbled out a few cc's, they haven't done it again. I filled them
very close to full and in the taildragger, the pedals flop aft without my
feet on them. This no doubt contributed to the leaks. I suppose with some
vigorous acro or turbulence they might urp up some more, but for the most
part, they're staying dry now. 75% full might be the ticket.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris & Kellie Hand" <ckhand(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | friend looking for VFR RV-6 |
I'm posting this for a friend and neighbor I fly with occasionally (his
C-172 & C-182 club planes and my C-140). After following my RV-6A project
over the last 10 years, along with pitching in and helping out when I need
extra hands, he is now thinking about buying a flying RV-6. He would like
to find an RV-6 owner in the western Washington area that would be willing
to take him on a short flight, or at least let him sit in an RV-6 to get a
feel for the cockpit and sight picture on the ground. I think he may decide
to build a plane sometime down the road, but right now is looking to buy
first so I didn't suggest that he make a flight to Aurora for a Van's demo
flight.
If there's anybody out there willing to help get him hooked on RV flying,
please reply to Larry at: 1flyer(at)wavecable.com
Also, he's checking all the usual web classifieds, but if you know of a good
RV-6 for sale, please send him a note. Looking in particular for VFR only,
fixed pitch setup.
Thanks,
Chris Hand
RV-6A, almost ready for finishing kit....
Poulsbo, WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ed " <ed_88(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Care to recommend some workshop furnishings? |
In preperation for starting my rv-8a qb, I was going to set up a table
to be my work surface. In particular I am wondering if it makes sense to
have a bench up against a wall, or will I be better served by something on
wheels so I can back it away and work on things from all angles. Since I
will probbably be building this myself, does anyone have a recommendation on
what size I should make it?
Also any recommendations for what size air compressor to get?
Thanks for advising a soon to be builder,
--Eddie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ed " <ed_88(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Care to recommend some workshop furnishings? |
In preperation for starting my rv-8a qb, I was going to set up a table
to be my work surface. In particular I am wondering if it makes sense to
have a bench up against a wall, or will I be better served by something on
wheels so I can back it away and work on things from all angles. Since I
will probbably be building this myself, does anyone have a recommendation on
what size I should make it?
Also any recommendations for what size air compressor to get?
Thanks for advising a soon to be builder,
--Eddie
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Care to recommend some workshop furnishings? |
| From: | "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" <F.vanderHulst(at)ucol.ac.nz> |
Hi Eddie,
I have a workbench set up against a wall, *and* a table for working
round things. I suggest that you avoid a workbench on wheels... Murphy
says that it'll move just when you don't want it to. OTOH, a wheeled
trolley would be useful as a portable tool-rack.
Don't make your wall-mounted workbench too deep... you won't be able to
conveniently reach stuff that's at the far side. Mine is about 3 feet
deep, and that's just a bit too much. But it does give room to store
various tools and things. In its latest incarnation, my workbench
protrudes a bit from the end of the wall, which makes a convenient area
for working round things. On my bench, I have a little tray-thing with
several little compartments which is good for keeping all the little
tools that you need. And a block of wood with holes in it to keep drill
bits in.
Drilling and painting are the two things that really work your
compressor.
I started with a little home-made 1/3hp one, and it was too small. OTOH,
it just meant being a bit savvy about working... drill a while, and when
the pressure dropped too much, go and deburr/dimple/whatever for a while
until pressure built up, then back to drilling. Had that compressor
motor running for hours on end (maybe that's why it died?).
I now have a 2.5hp compressor, and that's OK. Of course, a 5hp one would
be better!
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: ed [mailto:ed_88(at)hotmail.com]
Subject: RV-List: Care to recommend some workshop furnishings?
In preperation for starting my rv-8a qb, I was going to set up a
table
to be my work surface. In particular I am wondering if it makes sense to
have a bench up against a wall, or will I be better served by something
on
wheels so I can back it away and work on things from all angles. Since I
will probbably be building this myself, does anyone have a
recommendation on
what size I should make it?
Also any recommendations for what size air compressor to get?
Thanks for advising a soon to be builder,
--Eddie
Learn real skills for the real world - Apply online
at http://www.ucol.ac.nz or call 0800 GO UCOL
(0800 46 8265) or txt free 3388 for more information
and make a good move to UCOL Universal College of
Learning.
Enrol with a public institute and be certain of your
future
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Care to recommend some workshop furnishings? |
Ed, I made my "work bench/table" 6'x3'. It's heavily built with 4x4 legs and can
be accessed from all sides. I also bought a little work bench/tool chest from
sears. It has 7 drawers where I keep all my aero tools. The top is about 4'x2'
and I set my drill press and band saw on top. I added caster wheels so it will
roll around the plane as needed. Also when you get your wing and or fuselage
boxes just add some legs to it to get it up off the floor. It makes a wonderful
storage bin/work table.
Tommy
6A, FWF
Ridgetop, TN
----- Original Message -----
From: ed
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, April 26, 2004 12:36 AM
Subject: RV-List: Care to recommend some workshop furnishings?
In preperation for starting my rv-8a qb, I was going to set up a table
to be my work surface. In particular I am wondering if it makes sense to
have a bench up against a wall, or will I be better served by something on
wheels so I can back it away and work on things from all angles. Since I
will probbably be building this myself, does anyone have a recommendation on
what size I should make it?
Also any recommendations for what size air compressor to get?
Thanks for advising a soon to be builder,
--Eddie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Care to recommend some workshop furnishings? |
Also any recommendations for what size air compressor to get?
I would advise, as a minimum, a 220V-5 HP with a 20-30 gallon tank.
Tommy
6A, FWF
Ridgetop, TN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dwpetrus(at)aol.com |
I have 260 hours on mine and it has worked great.
Wayne Petrus
RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve&Anita Nyman" <nyman(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Care to recommend some workshop furnishings? |
Ed,
I made 3 worktable from plans found at this website http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/worktabl/worktabl.htm. One table is against the wall with tools and such. The other two tables were originally placed end to end with a cheap sheet of 4x8 particle board attached to the top as a work surface that could be drilled into and walked around. After finishing with the wings the table were rearranged to accommodate the fuselage, then moved again when it came time to put on the wings. I'm building a 7QB and my 5hp, 13gal Campbell Hausefeld compressor I bought on sale at Wal-Mart has been adequate.
Steve
7QB
MEM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David E. Nelson" <david.nelson(at)pobox.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Care to recommend some workshop furnishings? |
Hi Ed,
I built a set of EAA Chapter 1000 tables. So far I'm very satisfied with them
as they're sturdy, moderately heavy, but not bulky. The supplies you get will
build two tables. I would highly recommend that you make a jig (out of some
2x4) for the screw patterns and glue all joints with wood glue. Also, having
two drills (one with a pilot hole drill bit and the other with a phillips bit)
was really handy. Tip: Use some bath bar soap (Irish Spring, Safeguard, etc)
on the long wood screws and they'll go in a _lot_ easier and not tend to strip
out the philips head. I also used the deck screws that come with their own
phillips bit.
http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/worktabl/worktabl.htm
As for compressor, I traded up from an oil-less unit to a 25 Gal, 110V, 5 HP,
belt driven, oil compressor and have been very happy with it. Handles all my
drilling and priming needs w/o any problems....and I still have my hearing! ;)
Regards,
/\/elson
Austin, TX
RV-7A - Waiting on the wings....
On Mon, 26 Apr 2004, ed wrote:
>
> In preperation for starting my rv-8a qb, I was going to set up a table
> to be my work surface. In particular I am wondering if it makes sense to
> have a bench up against a wall, or will I be better served by something on
> wheels so I can back it away and work on things from all angles. Since I
> will probbably be building this myself, does anyone have a recommendation on
> what size I should make it?
>
>
> Also any recommendations for what size air compressor to get?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Conical Engine Brushings |
Buy the ones from Van's is what everyone told me so I did.......Or take the
chance with the cheapies and report back to us?
>
>I am mounting an O-360-C1G on an RV-4. This is a conical engine. I need
>the conical mount bushings. Aircraft Spruce sells a set of eight (non
>PMA'd) for $39.50. Van's price is $300. Has anyone used the AS conical
>bushings on an RV?
>
>
>Thanks,
>
>Ken
>
>RV-6A N94KB
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Trainnut01(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Care to recommend some workshop furnishings? |
Where is Ridgetop, TN?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert E. Newhall II" <renewhall2(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | colorado transition training |
Does anyone know of a CFI doing RV transition training
in Colorado? I need to get 5 hrs from any CFI who has
25 hrs of RV time. I'm current in tailwheel and have
flown RVs before. I just need the time for the
insurance.
Bob
__________________________________
http://photos.yahoo.com/ph/print_splash
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Lycoming Bolt Kit... |
vansairforce
I've tried ECI, ASI, and El Reno...
Anyone know where I can get a bolt kit (for case, sump, accy case) for a
Lycoming?
-Bill VonDane
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Neal E Capt AU/PC <Neal.George(at)maxwell.af.mil> |
| Subject: | Care to recommend some workshop furnishings? |
Ed -
My primary work table is a luan hollow-core door laid across two heavy-duty
folding steel saw-horses. It is smooth, absolutely flat, light-weight,
adjustable height, easy to drill into, will hold a cleco, thin enough to
clamp pieces to, easy to move or take apart. It was also cheap - $20 for a
32" door and $15 each for saw horses. Scraps of 2x6 and carpet screwed to
the tops make the saw-horses even more versatile.
Resist the temptation to buy an oil-free direct-drive compressor. If you
compare Hp ratings and cost, the direct drive units appear to be cheaper per
Hp than the belt-drive units. In operation, the belt drive units are more
efficient, MUCH quieter, run cooler and will last much longer. My neighbors
tell me that my pneumatic squeezer makes more noise that the compressor.
Your ears, your family and your neighbors will thank you.
Neal
N8ZG
>to set up a table to be my work surface.
>recommendations for air compressor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Sneed <n242ds(at)cox.net> |
I have an rv-6 with rv-4 wheel pants, does anyone know if the goodyear
flight custom 3's will work with my wheel pants?
Thanks,
Jason Sneed
Commercial Lending Officer
First National Bank and Trust
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | powering the anr headset from ships power |
| From: | "Williams Hildred" <WilliamsJrHildred(at)JohnDeere.com> |
I am currently running my D&C headsets with the 'ANR Retrofit Kit' off of the panel
mount.
In the past, I have experience 'feed back' when using the updated headsets using
panel or battery power.
I can eliminate the 'feed back', by pulling the headset 'down' and 'back' onto
my ears.
At Sun-N-Fun this year, I spoke with the company representative about the 'feed
back' in my headset.
He indicated that there is NOT enough volume/space between my ear and the speaker.
(I am already using the recommended headset ear cups from Aero Oregon and
do not know of any larger cups on the market)
Has any one else encountered this 'feed back' or a similar problem??
Hildred Williams
WilliamsJrHildred(at)JohnDeere.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
You should first check all your connections. Something like this can happen
if a screw is working loose due to vibration.
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jason Sneed" <n242ds(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV-List: EIS Trouble
>
> Has anyone else had trouble with a EIS from Grand Rapids Technologies?
> after 25 hours of trouble free operation the display started moving
> from right to left a couple of digits. It then started getting worse,
> jumping 4-5 digits every 5 min. or so of flying. GRT sent me a new unit
> and all the problems went away, until today. The display has started
> shifting from the right to the left again. So it seems as though after
> 25 hours or so of flight the EIS starts having trouble in my plane.
> Greg really did not have an explanation for me at sun and fun and I was
> hoping someone out there has had a similar problem and may have a fix.
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Jason Sneed
> Commercial Lending Officer
> First National Bank and Trust
> www.highland-parks.com/n242ds
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Care to recommend some workshop furnishings? |
| From: | "" <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com> |
Eddie,
Feedback based on my observations:
- Build at least 2 workbenches. One will hold your bench-mounted tools, and the
other will be your workbench. For the bench-mount tools, I have a 2' x 6' table
up against the wall which works great. For the "work" bench, make it at
least 3' wide. I built mine both 2' wide, and it is really not big enough. When
using the c-frame dimpler, you will really want 3' width.
- As for the compressor, definitely go with the oiled type. They are the ones
with the belt drive. The difference is noise is unbelievable. I originally bought
a direct-drive (oilfree) but sold it for a belt-driven (I was losing my
hearing).
scott
7a wings
--- On Mon 04/26, ed < ed_88(at)hotmail.com > wrote:
From: ed [mailto: ed_88(at)hotmail.com]
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2004 05:36:17 +0000
Subject: RV-List: Care to recommend some workshop furnishings?
In preperation for starting my rv-8a qb, I was going to set up a table
to be my work surface. In particular I am wondering if it makes sense to
have a bench up against a wall, or will I be better served by something on
wheels so I can back it away and work on things from all angles. Since I
will probbably be building this myself, does anyone have a recommendation on
what size I should make it?
Also any recommendations for what size air compressor to get?
Thanks for advising a soon to be builder,
--Eddie
====================================
tion
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | powering the anr headset from ships power |
| From: | "Nuffer, Chuck" <CNuffer(at)it21.com> |
Do you wear glasses............ I had the same problem with a set of
conversion headsets (headset inc. in DC 13.4's). The guys at headset
inc. replaced the mic in one ear cup. The point where the headset seal
rests against your glasses ear piece can also allow noise to "leak" into
the mic area causing the feedback. I'd send them in for
repair......................
Regards,
Chuck Nuffer
F1 rocket
www.f1rocket.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Williams
Hildred
Subject: RE: RV-List: powering the anr headset from ships power
-->
I am currently running my D&C headsets with the 'ANR Retrofit Kit' off
of the panel mount.
In the past, I have experience 'feed back' when using the updated
headsets using panel or battery power.
I can eliminate the 'feed back', by pulling the headset 'down' and
'back' onto my ears.
At Sun-N-Fun this year, I spoke with the company representative about
the 'feed back' in my headset.
He indicated that there is NOT enough volume/space between my ear and
the speaker. (I am already using the recommended headset ear cups from
Aero Oregon and do not know of any larger cups on the market)
Has any one else encountered this 'feed back' or a similar problem??
Hildred Williams
WilliamsJrHildred(at)JohnDeere.com
=
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bruno <rv4(at)videotron.ca> |
| Subject: | For User of Garmin GTX 327 Txpr. |
Hello All
I just purchase a new Garmin GTX 327 and finally turn it "ON"
for the first time yesterday and I would like to know if it is normal for
the Press Alt window to show nothing eventough the unit is connected to my
Ameri-King encoder.Is it normal while on the ground or is there something I
can do to have the Press Alt displayed
Also the unit is wired thru an avionic master switch and while
it does turn the unit "OFF" when selected "OFF" it doesn't turn the unit
back "ON" when I turn the master back "ON" I have to manually turn the txpr
"ON". Is it a normal Garmin feature???
Thanks for your imputs
Bruno Dionne
C-GDBH RV-4
rv4(at)videotron.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ed " <ed_88(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Care to recommend some workshop furnishings? |
Thanks to everyone who responded. As always RV-List is proving to be a
great place to get information quickly.
For those who are curious, I have decided to build a 3 x 8 bench, with
no wheels. I don't think I will be moving it often enough to need wheels,
and will not be risking my project moving while I work on it.
I'll also be getting another smaller bench up against the wall to hold
scotchbrite wheel and other stationary tools as the become nessasary.
Probbably next to a pegboard for holding misc. smaller tools.
As for the compressor, everyone recommends avoiding the oil-free type,
so I will definatley do that. People are split about if a big one is really
needed. I plan on starting with a smaller one. If it turns out to be to
small, I'll sell it and get a bigger one.
Thanks again,
--Eddie
>From: "ed " <ed_88(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Care to recommend some workshop furnishings?
>Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2004 05:36:29 +0000
>
>
> In preperation for starting my rv-8a qb, I was going to set up a
>table
>to be my work surface. In particular I am wondering if it makes sense to
>have a bench up against a wall, or will I be better served by something on
>wheels so I can back it away and work on things from all angles. Since I
>will probbably be building this myself, does anyone have a recommendation
>on
>what size I should make it?
>
>
> Also any recommendations for what size air compressor to get?
>
>Thanks for advising a soon to be builder,
>--Eddie
>
>
Lose those love handles! MSN Fitness shows you two moves to slim your waist.
http://fitness.msn.com/articles/feeds/article.aspx?dept=exercise&article=et_pv_030104_lovehandles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal / Carol Kempthorne <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: For User of Garmin GTX 327 Txpr. |
It takes a while for the encoder to warm up. Should then show local
'altitude'.
My txp needs to be turned on with button push. Helps you remember to
adjust code.
hal
At 02:35 PM 4/26/2004, you wrote:
>
>Hello All
> I just purchase a new Garmin GTX 327 and finally turn it "ON"
>for the first time yesterday and I would like to know if it is normal for
>the Press Alt window to show nothing eventough the unit is connected to my
>Ameri-King encoder.Is it normal while on the ground or is there something I
>can do to have the Press Alt displayed
>
> Also the unit is wired thru an avionic master switch and while
>it does turn the unit "OFF" when selected "OFF" it doesn't turn the unit
>back "ON" when I turn the master back "ON" I have to manually turn the txpr
>"ON". Is it a normal Garmin feature???
>
>Thanks for your imputs
>
>Bruno Dionne
>C-GDBH RV-4
>rv4(at)videotron.ca
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | For User of Garmin GTX 327 Txpr. |
> Also the unit is wired thru an avionic master
> switch and while it does turn the unit "OFF" when selected
> "OFF" it doesn't turn the unit back "ON" when I turn the
> master back "ON" I have to manually turn the txpr "ON". Is it
> a normal Garmin feature???
>
> Thanks for your imputs
>
> Bruno Dionne
Bruno, call Garmin and they will email you the installation and setup
manual for the unit. There are a lot of set up configurations for the
unit.
If you simply kill the 327 with the master, it should come back on with
the master. If it doesn't, it is probably a setup command. If you
power down the 327 by pressing its "off" button, it won't come back on
automatically when the master is switched on.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 459 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michel" <rv8ter(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | For User of Garmin GTX 327 Txpr. |
You can have it set either way, on with master or on manually. In our Piper
Cheyennes we have them come on with the radio master while on my 8 I have it
stay off when I through the Master switch because I don't have a radio
master. It is a wiring or software setup, forget which it was now.
Michel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hal / Carol
Kempthorne
Subject: Re: RV-List: For User of Garmin GTX 327 Txpr.
It takes a while for the encoder to warm up. Should then show local
'altitude'.
My txp needs to be turned on with button push. Helps you remember to
adjust code.
hal
At 02:35 PM 4/26/2004, you wrote:
>
>Hello All
> I just purchase a new Garmin GTX 327 and finally turn it
"ON"
>for the first time yesterday and I would like to know if it is normal for
>the Press Alt window to show nothing eventough the unit is connected to my
>Ameri-King encoder.Is it normal while on the ground or is there something I
>can do to have the Press Alt displayed
>
> Also the unit is wired thru an avionic master switch and
while
>it does turn the unit "OFF" when selected "OFF" it doesn't turn the unit
>back "ON" when I turn the master back "ON" I have to manually turn the txpr
>"ON". Is it a normal Garmin feature???
>
>Thanks for your imputs
>
>Bruno Dionne
>C-GDBH RV-4
>rv4(at)videotron.ca
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Schaefer" <dschaefer1(at)kc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Sam James Plenum / RV6 Cowl / Oil Cooler |
I need some help from any one out there who has installed the Sam James
plenum on an RV6A. I've installed the plenum (no problems) but can not
install the oil cooler at the angle described behind #4 cylinder because of
the engine mount. The cooler just barely clears the mount without the
'angled spacer' assembly.
Additionally does anyone have pictures of how you modified the Van's cowl to
accept Sam's rings!!
Any help will be appreciated and pictures would be a big-time help!!
Regards
David Schaefer
RV6-A Finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: For User of Garmin GTX 327 Txpr. |
At 05:35 PM 4/26/2004, you wrote:
>
>Hello All
> I just purchase a new Garmin GTX 327 and finally turn it "ON"
>for the first time yesterday and I would like to know if it is normal for
>the Press Alt window to show nothing eventough the unit is connected to my
>Ameri-King encoder.Is it normal while on the ground or is there something I
>can do to have the Press Alt displayed.
I believe that you must press the "ALT" button in the center to show the
altitude. Now read what I write carefully:
You can manually turn on the GTX 327 by pushing the "ON" button. This will
activate the transponder, but will NOT show the pressure altitude on the
screen. If you now push the ALT button, the pressure altitude feature will
show up on the screen.
But here is a much better method to use the GTX 327: You can also manually
turn on the GTX 327 by pushing the ALT button. This will simultaneously
activate the transponder and the pressure altitude feature. This is the
way I turn mine on. A few times I used the former method and forgot to push
the ALT button when I was airborne . I got a call from the Philadelphia ATC
center after one of these flights. They were not happy with me. I then made
the decision to never turn the X-ponder on with the ON button, but only use
the ALT button.
Louis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RGray67968(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder wiring. |
Dana.......Dana.........Dana,
Just leave slack in the wire(s) with a connector inside the fairing. You run
the wires out the bottom of the VS and UNDER the lower rod end bearing and
into the opening in the front of the bottom fairing. You need enough slack to be
able to remove the screws in the light holder (shroud....whatever) then pull
the wire out of the opening to undo the connector. I used a small molex so it
would fit through the hole. You can do this in 'reverse' if you choose......by
leaving to 'long' end of the wire connected to the light and pulling the
connector out of the front of the fairing.....it's your airplane :
). Be sure to
secure the nuts on the light shroud.....I buried them in some flox.....no
problemo'.
Rick Gray RV6 in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm
http://rv6rick.tripod.com/ohiovalleyrvators/index.html
archive this baby
Bear with me here for a moment. I'm installing the bottom rudder fairing on
my new 7 rudder. I have the postion light/strobe configuration mounted to
the bottom fairing. I've looked at a couple of sites in regards to the
position of the quick disconnect. If I leave enough wire to pull the
strobe/light setup out to get to the quick disconnect, the rudder will be
permanently attached to the fuselage. I know the number of times a rudder
will come off, owner assisted, will be minimal at best. However, I am
painting everything prior to final assembly so running wire through the
front of the fiberglass to quick disconnects inside the fairing looks to be
not an option. The only way I see to do it is to have the wire exit the
front of the bottom fairing and install a quick disconnect; leave enough
wire so as to allow some rotation and install a quick disconnect on the wire
leaving the fuselage.
Problem here, will a quick disconnect located between the aft VS spar and
the front of the rudder cause weather related or rubbing problems 100 hours
into flying this baby?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder wiring. |
> OK, Rick and Dan. My thinking was to seal the exit point in the bottom
> fairing to avoid any water getting inside. So, I'm guessing you just made
> the exit hole large enough to allow the wire/connectors to pass through??
> Next point here, what just drill a couple drain holes in the bottom
fairing
> and be done with it??
Water *will* get inside. Yep...I drilled two drain holes, one fore and one
aft, in the fairing.
There's no "exit hole" in my fairing for the wires. I run the wires through
the opening where the lower rod end bearing swings.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder wiring. |
I tried to get fancy and provide an exit point with a snap bushing, etc. on
my -6A and quickly found there was an interference problem most any place I
tried to place the exit hole. I ended up filling the holes I had made and
routing the wires just as Dan describes below.
I can also add a vote for drain holes in the rudder bottom fairing based on
experience with my -3. During a walk around one day, wiggling the rudder
resulted in sloshing noises. I drilled a drain hole at the low point and
about half a quart of water streamed out! (Heavy rain in the previous days).
Jim Oke
WPg., MB
RV-6A, RV-3
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rudder wiring.
>
> > OK, Rick and Dan. My thinking was to seal the exit point in the bottom
> > fairing to avoid any water getting inside. So, I'm guessing you just
made
> > the exit hole large enough to allow the wire/connectors to pass
through??
> > Next point here, what just drill a couple drain holes in the bottom
> fairing
> > and be done with it??
>
> Water *will* get inside. Yep...I drilled two drain holes, one fore and
one
> aft, in the fairing.
>
> There's no "exit hole" in my fairing for the wires. I run the wires
through
> the opening where the lower rod end bearing swings.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leland <Federigo(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise |
If you are considering the DRE 6000, read the customer reviews at:
http://www.avshop.com/catalog/reviews.html?productid=3815&#comment5
The reviews are definitely mixed.
Leland in Pleasanton
Wiring up EGTs on an RV9A
"For those of you about ready to purchase a headset for your RV, you might
consider the DRE 6000. It's one-third the cost of the Bose X and about a
year and a half ago, Aviation Consumer magazine did a comparison of about
six leading headsets and several of the testers liked the performance of
the
DRE (comparative "bang for the buck") and felt like it was close to the
noise canceling properties to the Bose X. My partner and I each bought one.
I paid $275 plus shipping for mine about a year ago."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
try
http://www.garmin.com/manuals/GTX327Transponder_InstallationManual.pdf
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
an add on thought,
if you have an older GTX327 this version (version J) of the manual will have
a few errors.
The screen displays will be slightly different and reordered, and several of
the pins are wrong, specifically those that communicate with a GNS430/530.
If I remember correctly pin 20 is not the RS232 #1 output but pin 2 is, so
it is not the RS232 #2 input as described in this version. (its been a while
since I ran into this) You need to call tech support if this version of the
manual has screen variations from what you actually have.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise |
They may be $1000, but Bose headsets will be the last pair you ever own.
Worth every penny.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Soon
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Leland" <Federigo(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise
>
> If you are considering the DRE 6000, read the customer reviews at:
> http://www.avshop.com/catalog/reviews.html?productid=3815&#comment5
> The reviews are definitely mixed.
> Leland in Pleasanton
> Wiring up EGTs on an RV9A
>
> "For those of you about ready to purchase a headset for your RV, you
might
> consider the DRE 6000. It's one-third the cost of the Bose X and
about a
> year and a half ago, Aviation Consumer magazine did a comparison of
about
> six leading headsets and several of the testers liked the
performance of the
> DRE (comparative "bang for the buck") and felt like it was close to
the
> noise canceling properties to the Bose X. My partner and I each
bought one.
> I paid $275 plus shipping for mine about a year ago."
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
| Subject: | Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise |
Good to point this out but I must say that I have have SEVERAL pair of the
DRE's and there are MANY people at our airport who have them with NO
reported problems of the nature mentioned.
I recall some time back, in some model, the discovered that the mic they
were using was either too sensitive or not sensitive enough. Free
replacements sent. No problem.
The ranges that headsets have to operate in is VERY wide. There is a (TSO??)
spec for these things but that does not make them work in all environments.
I know this because I also have had several Bose (including the newest ones)
and had to talk to them about a couple of things. They too have different
mics and updated electronics to cover what might be problems.
The key here, I think, is that MOST people are getting GREAT value from the
DRE's. I have. And they offer great service (at least I have received such).
James
Owner of DC, DRE and Bose headsets.
No business afilliation with either company
p.s. One of the comments said the headsets were "useless" with the noise
cancellation off. I find them (like many others) to have a degredation in
performance as one would expect. There are others that are better in the
"passive only" mode but they headsets are still useable in this mode. The
only time you are likely to be in that mode is if BOTH of the TWO 9 volt
batteries have run out. You will have seen a red LED for many hours before
this happens and would probably deserve a little more noise. :-)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Leland
> Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 2004 11:20 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise
>
>
> If you are considering the DRE 6000, read the customer reviews at:
> http://www.avshop.com/catalog/reviews.html?productid=3815&#comment5
> The reviews are definitely mixed.
> Leland in Pleasanton
> Wiring up EGTs on an RV9A
>
> "For those of you about ready to purchase a headset for your RV,
> you might
> consider the DRE 6000. It's one-third the cost of the Bose
> X and about a
> year and a half ago, Aviation Consumer magazine did a
> comparison of about
> six leading headsets and several of the testers liked the
> performance of the
> DRE (comparative "bang for the buck") and felt like it was
> close to the
> noise canceling properties to the Bose X. My partner and I
> each bought one.
> I paid $275 plus shipping for mine about a year ago."
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder wiring. |
Dana, Dan, & Jim,
I read your e-mails and went back out to look at my rudder sitting in the
shop - I also decided not to cut any holes in front of fiberglass rudder
bottom, planning to simply let wires that come out back of fuselage drop
down over the front top of the fiberglass, with lots of slack inside and the
original Whelen connectors for strobe & pos lites cut off the factory
harness and re-installed so they are in the big service loop inside the
rudder fairing, to allow removal of the light like you all described. I
added in an extra 2 feet or so (don't have notes in front of me) of wire
from the power supply aft into the rudder housing with 3 wire strobe
connector on these extensions.
I'm wondering how to prevent the wires from chaffing/cutting (from rudder
movement) as the wires ride on that fiberglass edge where they drop down
from the rod end bearing down inside the fiberglass fairing. I'll at
least put a bead of RTV silicone sealant over the fiberglass edge. Anythng
more fancy than that available or recommended? Something slicker like a
plastic "edge strip protector" would seem nicer/slicker/more durable.
David
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Rudder wiring.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise |
Paul Besing wrote:
>
> They may be $1000, but Bose headsets will be the last pair you ever own.
> Worth every penny.
I just bought a set at Sun-n-Fun, and so far I agree.
Even worked wonders on the Southwest flight home... *grin*
-Dj
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise |
I bought Bose & Lightspeed at the same time. Used both in Rv's and Citation. Sent
the Bose back. Not $600 better than Lightspeed in my opinion.
Doug Preston
RV8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder wiring. |
> I'm wondering how to prevent the wires from chaffing/cutting (from rudder
> movement) as the wires ride on that fiberglass edge where they drop down
> from the rod end bearing down inside the fiberglass fairing. I'll at
> least put a bead of RTV silicone sealant over the fiberglass edge.
Anythng
> more fancy than that available or recommended? Something slicker like a
> plastic "edge strip protector" would seem nicer/slicker/more durable.
In my case, the edge doesn't even come close to the wire. Granted, I opened
the "mouth" of the fairing up a bit and lowered the edge, but the wire exit
hole in the VS spar is high up enough, and the front edge of the fiberglass
fairing is forward enough so that the wires droop right down into the
fairing and there's basically no chance of contact.
YMMV
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Emmanuelle Richard <frenchflyer21(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: For User of Garmin GTX 327 Txpr. |
On the GTX, there is a pin for the Avionics Master switch and a pin for the power
(on the connector at the back of the GTX).
I just ran a wire to the power pin through the Avionics switch and have the same
behavior as you describe.
If you want the GTX to turn on when you turn on the Avionics master, I think you
need to have a jumper between the power pin and the Avionics Master pin. In
my plane it's hard to get to that connector, so i haven't added that yet.
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
I was browsing the Bunny's Guide to RV Building, Finish Kit, Canopy. The
links no longer work for Frank Cone's instructions and his e-mail at aol is
no longer recognized by aol. Anyone know where his articles are posted on a
website?
David
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder wiring. |
If you use a connector to facilitate installation
and removal I reccomend sealing it with Dow
Corning DC4 compound. I found severe corrosion
on the connector after 3 years use.
Stewart, RV4 978 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" <F.vanderHulst(at)ucol.ac.nz> |
That'd be Jim Cone :-)
In Matronics photoshare...
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/jimnbev@olypen.com.02.17.2004/
Frank (not Cone :-)
-----Original Message-----
I was browsing the Bunny's Guide to RV Building, Finish Kit, Canopy.
The links no longer work for Frank Cone's instructions and his e-mail at
aol is no longer recognized by aol. Anyone know where his articles are
posted on a website?
Learn real skills for the real world - Apply online
at http://www.ucol.ac.nz or call 0800 GO UCOL
(0800 46 8265) or txt free 3388 for more information
and make a good move to UCOL Universal College of
Learning.
Enrol with a public institute and be certain of your
future
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise |
In a message dated 04/27/2004 12:39:15 PM Central Standard Time,
DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com writes:
I bought Bose & Lightspeed at the same time. Used both in Rv's and Citation.
Sent the Bose back. Not $600 better than Lightspeed in my opinion.
Shickled totally titless with my new Lightspeed XCs- cheap & effective, but
I've never had one of the $Bose$ sets on so no way to compare.... Just mash
the little button and RRRRRRRR!!!!!!! turns into
hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.............
Shameless product review from The PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips - RV-6A N51PW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy - tip-up |
Try Will Cresinger's notes. Use them as a guide, but it does work pretty
well.
http://home.flash.net/~gila/wing_docs/canopy_notes2.htm
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Soon
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net>
Subject: RV-List: Canopy - tip-up
>
> I was browsing the Bunny's Guide to RV Building, Finish Kit, Canopy. The
> links no longer work for Frank Cone's instructions and his e-mail at aol
is
> no longer recognized by aol. Anyone know where his articles are posted on
a
> website?
>
> David
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | j pearlman <rvexch(at)yahoo.com> |
I am looking for an autopilot other than an STEC which has ILS approach capability,
altitude hold, nav, etc. Any suggestions based on experience?
jp
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Mazda 13B mufflers |
| From: | "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" <F.vanderHulst(at)ucol.ac.nz> |
Hi,
Just a heads-up for anyone interested... the latest Sport Flying
magazine (published by NZ Sport Aviation Assn, our equivalent of EAA)
has an article on the Aero Sport International
http://www.aero-sport.com/Products/Index.asp Kahu gyroplane, which is
designed round a 13B engine, converted for aeronautical use.
The exhaust system might be of interest to RV-list members with (or
planning) 13B rotary engine installations. The article claimed that
switching to this exhaust had reduced noise from 101dB down to 79-81dB.
In the photo, the exhaust looked to be a cylinder about 8" in diameter
by maybe 12" long, with a helical pipe, about 2" in diameter, going
around and in and out of the cylinder. The text said the exhaust design
was based on some Russian research. If anyone's interested in more
information, I can ask for permission to scan the article and photos.
Frank
Learn real skills for the real world - Apply online
at http://www.ucol.ac.nz or call 0800 GO UCOL
(0800 46 8265) or txt free 3388 for more information
and make a good move to UCOL Universal College of
Learning.
Enrol with a public institute and be certain of your
future
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
> I am looking for an autopilot other than an STEC which has
> ILS approach capability, altitude hold, nav, etc. Any
> suggestions based on experience?
>
> jp
I just looked at their website, and I don't believe TruTrak makes an
autopilot that couples to the GS, but I'd call them to be sure. There
is the old tried and true Century 2000, which can be had in a package
deal with an HSI and AH for something like $9000. It would be tough to
justify putting spinning gyros in a new plane now, but if you want GS
coupling, you might have to. I have the C2000 in my plane, and am
impressed at how it can nail an ILS approach.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 459 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick Jordan" <mkejrj(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sam James Plenum / RV6 Cowl / Oil Cooler |
Dave,
I ran into the same problem installing an oil cooler on the rear baffle
on the " James Plenum ". I constructed an oil cooler mount which was angled
back at the top by 15 degrees and also angled out by 20 degrees. The" angle
out " concept was not mentioned in any of the stuff I read but it moved the
actual cooler outboard from the engine mount so that there was clearance.
I will try to send you pictures as requested. My installation is on an
RV8 but I don't think there is any material difference with your A/C.If I
can provide additional details let me know.
Dick Jordan
RV8 Finishing
N888BZ Reserved
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Schaefer" <dschaefer1(at)kc.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: Sam James Plenum / RV6 Cowl / Oil Cooler
>
>
> I need some help from any one out there who has installed the Sam James
> plenum on an RV6A. I've installed the plenum (no problems) but can not
> install the oil cooler at the angle described behind #4 cylinder because
of
> the engine mount. The cooler just barely clears the mount without the
> 'angled spacer' assembly.
>
> Additionally does anyone have pictures of how you modified the Van's cowl
to
> accept Sam's rings!!
>
> Any help will be appreciated and pictures would be a big-time help!!
>
> Regards
>
> David Schaefer
> RV6-A Finishing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
Tru-Trak does make such a unit for coupled approaches....New price is
somewhere in the are of $6700+ and up, gets more expensive when you put in a
yaw damper, etc.. I believe everything from the "DFC-200" and up has the ILS
coupling capability. Website is: http://www.trutrakflightsystems.com
Also, Blue mountain avionics makes a unit that will fly a coupled approach.
http://bluemountainavionics.com
Century also makes a new digital/solid state auto-pilot for
GPS/VOR/LOC/etc.. http://www.centuryflight.com/
Meggit/Magic makes one, but you'll shell out over $60K for their system!
Same thing for Chelton, except I think they are only around $25-35K for the
setup!
Of course, you can always go the path Alex did, they are tried and true, but
like he said, I don't know why you would mess with anything other than the
digital ones that are out there now! Naturally, you can get the old
Cesspool "Nav-o-Matic" / ARC systems quite cheap!
Hope this is what you were looking for!
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Alex Peterson
Subject: RE: RV-List: autopilots
> I am looking for an autopilot other than an STEC which has
> ILS approach capability, altitude hold, nav, etc. Any
> suggestions based on experience?
>
> jp
I just looked at their website, and I don't believe TruTrak makes an
autopilot that couples to the GS, but I'd call them to be sure. There
is the old tried and true Century 2000, which can be had in a package
deal with an HSI and AH for something like $9000. It would be tough to
justify putting spinning gyros in a new plane now, but if you want GS
coupling, you might have to. I have the C2000 in my plane, and am
impressed at how it can nail an ILS approach.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 459 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder wiring. |
David;
As per Dan's comments on this subject, I just do not recall wire chafing
being an issue.
On a -6A there is the fairly large tail tiedown weldment to accommodate so
the exit hole from the fuse required some experimenting to get right. I
recall using some heatshrink tubing on the wire run in that area - as much
to tidy up the wiring as protection but it served that purpose as well.
Rounding the fibreglass and/or adding some sort of edging might help and
would not likely do any harm. Note that generally there is not a lot of
clearance in that area for the rudder LE so avoid anything too bulky.
Jim Oke
RV-6A, RV-3
Wpg., MB
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rudder wiring.
>
> Dana, Dan, & Jim,
>
> I read your e-mails and went back out to look at my rudder sitting in the
> shop - I also decided not to cut any holes in front of fiberglass rudder
> bottom, planning to simply let wires that come out back of fuselage drop
> down over the front top of the fiberglass, with lots of slack inside and
the
> original Whelen connectors for strobe & pos lites cut off the factory
> harness and re-installed so they are in the big service loop inside the
> rudder fairing, to allow removal of the light like you all described. I
> added in an extra 2 feet or so (don't have notes in front of me) of wire
> from the power supply aft into the rudder housing with 3 wire strobe
> connector on these extensions.
>
> I'm wondering how to prevent the wires from chaffing/cutting (from rudder
> movement) as the wires ride on that fiberglass edge where they drop down
> from the rod end bearing down inside the fiberglass fairing. I'll at
> least put a bead of RTV silicone sealant over the fiberglass edge.
Anythng
> more fancy than that available or recommended? Something slicker like a
> plastic "edge strip protector" would seem nicer/slicker/more durable.
>
> David
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Rudder wiring.
>
>
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise |
My two cents:
Last summer at Osh I did the rounds looking for a new ANR headset. I pretty
much tried them all, and went home with a pair of Lightspeed 30-3Gs. They
aren't perfect, but every headset has strong & weak points. My main criteria
was personal comfort. Turns out I must have large ears because every other
headset I tried clamped part of my ear against my head, or pushed againt my
ear in some way. My old DCs do this too. The lightspeed 3G series has a lot
of room within the ear cup so the phones clamp against my head, not my ears.
The ear cups are leather-covered confor or temper foam and temperature-mold
to your head.
Other good & bad points about the 30-3Gs:
1. The ANR noise cancelling works great. One of the best in the business
according to the specs. I honestly don't know if the price difference for
the 30-3Gs over the 20-3Gs is really worth it for the extra 2 or 3 dBs of
noise cancelling. But I figured, what the hell...it was my Oshkosh gift to
myself :-)
2. Passive noise cancelling is not so great. The ANR removes the low end
noise from the prop and engine, but the white noise from airflow around the
canopy is still more than I would like. I think a lot of other headphones
are better in this regard, including my old passive DCs.
3. The mike is pretty good, but not as good a David Clark.
4. I seem to get 20 hours+ out of a set of two AA batteries, which is good
enough. When DC went to the 9v battery pack, I lost a lot of interest in
their ANR products. I prefer battery power for portability to other
aircraft, and AAs are dirt cheap if you buy the big strip packs.
5. While you just can't beat DC for quality and ruggedness, the Lightspeeds
have held up fine so far. Mind you, I try not to step on them when I climb
into the plane, or chuck them around. They don't look particularly robust.
6. The sound quality of the 3Gs is awesome. This was the tipping point for
me. These things sound as good as the studio monitor headphones that I use
for my music recording work.
7. The ability to plug a CD or mp3 player directly into the headphones is a
fabulous feature. My intercom isn't hi-fi and my wife isn't interested in
listening to my music at my volume anyway, so I seldom play music through
the intercom. This direct plug-in feature, along with the bass/treble boost
options and the overall sound quality make these great headphones for
music-loving pilots.
8. The ability to plug a cell phone into the headset is another feature I'd
never want to give up. It's great to be able to tell your wife from 8500
feet a hundred miles away that you'll be late for dinner and not to initiate
any search for you.
Frankly, Lightspeed sets the mark in terms of features and sound quality for
me. As for comfort, that is a personal thing and you have to buy what fits
your head the best. I'd say that the other manufacturers are going to have
to reproduce the features of the 30-3Gs if they ever want to get my business
again.
Curt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rv6tc" <rv6tc(at)myawai.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV list history |
In my opinion, near the top would have to be Aero Electric Bob. The man
always found time to answer even the stupidest of questions (trust me) and
would go so far as to look over your entire schematic, if you would send it
to him.
Then of course, you must credit the guy that wanted everyone to be his
"daisy". I miss him.
Howard "daisy".
Denver
----- Original Message -----
> ***
> *** We should start a "RV List Hall of Fame" nomination cycle.
> *** Folks like Scott
> *** McDaniels from Van's, Kyle Boatright (SP?), Alexander
> *** (RIP), etc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV list history/Bunny Guide |
| From: | "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" <F.vanderHulst(at)ucol.ac.nz> |
> Anyway, who was the original Bunny Guide RV6 writer and whatever
became of
> him and his project?
Hey, I resemble that! :-)
Yes, twas moi that appointed himself the constructor of "A Bunny's Guide
to RV Building".
Whatever became of me? Well, I disappeared from the RV-list for a couple
of years whilst I did my MTech thesis, when there weren't enough hours
in the day to read RV-list articles and do work and keep a family
together and do research. The degree is thankfully now complete. So I'm
back.
My project? Well, during those couple of years it languished under the
grandstand at the local racecourse. Actually, its still languishing,
although I did do a few hours on it a couple of monthes ago.
Non-progress is mainly because I've lost the motivation to work on it,
due partly to financial circumstances. Telling myself "Work on it now.
Then, when you can afford an engine you'll be able to finish it really
quickly" just doesn't seem to work. Sadly, my maths are good enough to
figure out the odds of winning the lottery in the next 10 years. But I
still buy lottery tickets now and then.
Donations, especially in the form of zero-time O-320s,
gratefully accepted.
To be honest though, partly my lack of aircraft construction motivation
is because I've discovered *robot* construction, which is a great outlet
for my constructive instincts, lots of fun, and not nearly as expensive!
Whilst reflecting on the Bunny's Guide history, I'm quite disappointed
that (to date) only a handful of people ever actually contributed to the
Guide. I'd hoped that I could promote myself to Editor-in-chief, with
hordes of readers contributing to the Guide as they worked with it. I
had this vision of a new kind of dynamic document that would eventually
encompass all there was to know about building an RV-6; an evolving
document that would grow into the ultimate RV-building resource.
It's beginning to look like I must have single-handedly made almost
every mistake possible in building an RV, and found nearly every
shortcut and improvement too. Mind you, a lot of what I put into the
Guide was interesting/useful things that I mined from the RV-list as
time went by, so that things to avoid and good ideas got added to the
Guide *before* I could make the mistake or improvement. For instance,
some time soon I'll add the relevant bits of the "rudder-wiring" and the
"manual elevator trim/Cessna knob" threads to Guide.
Frank
Learn real skills for the real world - Apply online
at http://www.ucol.ac.nz or call 0800 GO UCOL
(0800 46 8265) or txt free 3388 for more information
and make a good move to UCOL Universal College of
Learning.
Enrol with a public institute and be certain of your
future
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise |
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Which cell phone/provider do you have that functions at 8500'?
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Curt Reimer said:
>
> My two cents:
>
[snip]
> 8. The ability to plug a cell phone into the headset is another feature
> I'd
> never want to give up. It's great to be able to tell your wife from 8500
> feet a hundred miles away that you'll be late for dinner and not to
> initiate
> any search for you.
>
> Frankly, Lightspeed sets the mark in terms of features and sound quality
> for
> me. As for comfort, that is a personal thing and you have to buy what fits
> your head the best. I'd say that the other manufacturers are going to have
> to reproduce the features of the 30-3Gs if they ever want to get my
> business
> again.
>
> Curt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Lightspeed Timing Question |
All,
I have a Lightspeed Plasma I. Recently, I flew Mark F's F-1 Rocket and
found he had no drop at all on the electronic side of his ignition. I have
always had a drop, but recently my airplane has not been running as smoothly
as it did. I changed the plugs, that helped some. I put on new wires, that
helped too, but I still have a 70 -80 rpm drop on both the mag and the
Lightspeed.
I read the book, got a timing light and checked the timing. The Mag is dead
on at 25 deg BTDC. At 800 Rpm the Lightspeed is 35 deg.BTDC with the M.P.
line connected and 15 deg with it unhooked.
The way I read the manual (and they are not that great) is should be either
25 & 42 deg. BDTC (parallel valve IO-320) ( I did not build this airplane
and the builder says it was always dead on,) My sense is this is a chronic
deterioration, but I have not data to support that. Klaus says if it was
ever right, it will always be right, or it wont work at all. Great theory,
but I have been in the real world too long....
The airplane does not idle any better ont electronic than on the mag. It
idles fine on "both." That is not right and something is amiss. I have
checked out everything that I can think of outside of the unit? I have
talked to the builder, talked to Klause twice, dug in the archives and I am
at a loss. Anyone else have any ideas?
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net> |
TruTrak Digiflight IIVSG $4995.00 coupled up to the CNX-80 will do every
thing you need. By itself; wing level, heading mode (internal Mag sensor),
Altitude hold along with climb/descend @ airspeed/Feet. Has minim airspeed
and max airspeed. CNX-80 has the vertical steering, GPS steering, VOR, LOC,
Glide slope and all the other great things I like. Actually the CNX-80 is
my favorite GPS/COM easy to use.
Noel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Lightspeed Timing Question |
Doug,
I know you said you have the Plasma I but do you have the hall Effects
sensor located in the magneto hole or do you have the flywheel sensors. I
worked with a couple of different problems with the LSSE and with one
exception they were always the sensor that caused any problems. The one
exception was that Klaus sent the wrong main box for the sensor installed.
Anyways, check the sensors. The hall effects sensor has to be timedand they
have been known to slip a little on occassion. If it is the flywheel sensor
then you may want to check the gap between the pins in the flywheel and the
pickups.
Just a few ideas.
Mike Robertson
>From: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Lightspeed Timing Question
>Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2004 08:24:57 -0500
>
>
>All,
>
>I have a Lightspeed Plasma I. Recently, I flew Mark F's F-1 Rocket and
>found he had no drop at all on the electronic side of his ignition. I have
>always had a drop, but recently my airplane has not been running as
>smoothly
>as it did. I changed the plugs, that helped some. I put on new wires,
>that
>helped too, but I still have a 70 -80 rpm drop on both the mag and the
>Lightspeed.
>
>I read the book, got a timing light and checked the timing. The Mag is
>dead
>on at 25 deg BTDC. At 800 Rpm the Lightspeed is 35 deg.BTDC with the M.P.
>line connected and 15 deg with it unhooked.
>
>The way I read the manual (and they are not that great) is should be either
>25 & 42 deg. BDTC (parallel valve IO-320) ( I did not build this airplane
>and the builder says it was always dead on,) My sense is this is a chronic
>deterioration, but I have not data to support that. Klaus says if it was
>ever right, it will always be right, or it wont work at all. Great theory,
>but I have been in the real world too long....
>
>The airplane does not idle any better ont electronic than on the mag. It
>idles fine on "both." That is not right and something is amiss. I have
>checked out everything that I can think of outside of the unit? I have
>talked to the builder, talked to Klause twice, dug in the archives and I am
>at a loss. Anyone else have any ideas?
>
>Tailwinds,
>Doug Rozendaal
>
>
Lose those love handles! MSN Fitness shows you two moves to slim your waist.
http://fitness.msn.com/articles/feeds/article.aspx?dept=exercise&article=et_pv_030104_lovehandles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Japundza <bjapundza(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Lightspeed Timing Question |
Hi Doug,
In the past I have had an experience like yours and thought it was my Jeff Rose
system, then I thought it was the mag, it turned out to be a tiny induction leak
at the cylinder base gasket on #3. New plugs did seem to help temporarily,
but that was probably due to the perception of it running better since the plugs
were nice and new and clean. Replacing the seals is not a hard job and the
gaskets won't cost you much, its worth some piece of mind to help narrow down
your problem if you just go ahead and replace them. I rub the gaskets with
titeseal and thoroughly clean the flanges with a scotchbrite pad. A while before
that I had similar weirdness on runup and it turned out to be a new key switch
purchased from AC$ that some conact cleaner took care of. Look beyond the
ignition unit, its probably something else.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV6 550+ hours
F1 qb under const.
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob U." <rv3(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lightspeed Timing Question |
Doug Rozendaal wrote:
>
>All,
>
>I have a Lightspeed Plasma I. Recently, I flew Mark F's F-1 Rocket and
>found he had no drop at all on the electronic side of his ignition. I have
>always had a drop, but recently my airplane has not been running as smoothly
>as it did. I changed the plugs, that helped some. I put on new wires, that
>helped too, but I still have a 70 -80 rpm drop on both the mag and the
>Lightspeed.
>
Dunno about Lightspeeds, but on an all mag system, if you get no RPM drop...
check for broken P-leads.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob U." <rv3(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lightspeed Timing Question |
Doug Rozendaal wrote:
>
> All,
>
> I have a Lightspeed Plasma I. Recently, I flew Mark F's F-1 Rocket and
> found he had no drop at all on the electronic side of his ignition. I
> have
> always had a drop, but recently my airplane has not been running as
> smoothly
> as it did. I changed the plugs, that helped some. I put on new
> wires, that
> helped too, but I still have a 70 -80 rpm drop on both the mag and the
> Lightspeed.
>
Dunno about Lightspeeds, but on an all mag system, if you get no RPM
drop...
check for broken P-leads... or key switch problems.
Bob
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV list history/Bunny Guide |
Frank, my last contribution (and first) to the Bunny's Guide was my builders
notes on the empennage (1997-98). I appreciated your hosting of that
contribution. And, it got me started on learning about web documents.
- As the years have gone by, more people have created their own web
sites and post their stuff directly on their own site - that is probably a
significant reason for less contributions or archiving to the Bunny's List.
- Plus, many will post to the list, but not take time to refine their
problems and solutions and innovations for formal submission to a web site,
driven by the "keep on building if you are ever going to finish" rule.
- Matt's development of the Archives and Search engine also reduce the
perceived need to collect stuff into one web site. However, there is a real
jumble of RV-8, RV-6 slider, & RV-6 tip-up (and later models) that you have
to wade through to get what is really relevant to one's own plane and
personally desired outcome.
- I think possibly the greatest impediment to "web site contributions"
(whether to one's own site or someone else's like the Bunny's Guide) is
simply the lack of knowledge and software and experience of how to format
text and photos and sketches for posting. Just being able to write a Word
document or e-mail isn't enough - someone has to do the detail work. A lot
of people on the lists helped me learn & sort out some of the different
software for displaying things as either .dwg or .pdf (PDF Factory is a
great tool to format spreadsheets - electrical info - & CAD files for
people who don't have CAD software or, mainly don't have the time and help
to learn it well enough to use adequately). IRFAN is free and has all the
features one needs to size photos and scanned stuff - great to replace the
cheap, inadequate .jpg pgm that ships with Windows and frustrates the user.
- In the end, though, I still feel, like you, that there should be a
"consolidated" thing like the Bunny's Guide.
Yesterday, I searched the RV-list archives almost all day and copied about
30 e-mails on RV-6 tip-up canopy and instrument panel (removable) info.
Today, I start a split screen operation to create a substitute for the Van's
Manual (like I did for each part of the empennage) - document on one side,
screen to show an archived e-mail in other, then cut and paste/edit out of
e-mail and close it and bring up the next.
- It will incorporate my choices for canopy removal actuator system
(maintenance only, not in flt jett), canopy side skin overlap below
longerons, avoiding snags in front when raise, instrument panel (avoid
interference with other structure in front of it/"behind" deeper instrument
& radios, removable, notches and come up with a cad drawing), water/rain
protection above radio stack, rain sealing in front, guide block for
aligning of canopy when lowering into position, positioning of gas struts
with inst panel on to avoid interference, etc.
I'll send my documents & photos to you for the Bunny's Guide and post to my
own site, also.
Thanks, Frank, for you help and encouragement over the years.
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" <F.vanderHulst(at)ucol.ac.nz>
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV list history/Bunny Guide
>
> > Anyway, who was the original Bunny Guide RV6 writer and whatever
> became of
> > him and his project?
>
> Hey, I resemble that! :-)
>
> Yes, twas moi that appointed himself the constructor of "A Bunny's Guide
> to RV Building".
>
> Whatever became of me? Well, I disappeared from the RV-list for a couple
> of years whilst I did my MTech thesis, when there weren't enough hours
> in the day to read RV-list articles and do work and keep a family
> together and do research. The degree is thankfully now complete. So I'm
> back.
>
> My project? Well, during those couple of years it languished under the
> grandstand at the local racecourse. Actually, its still languishing,
> although I did do a few hours on it a couple of monthes ago.
> Non-progress is mainly because I've lost the motivation to work on it,
> due partly to financial circumstances. Telling myself "Work on it now.
> Then, when you can afford an engine you'll be able to finish it really
> quickly" just doesn't seem to work. Sadly, my maths are good enough to
> figure out the odds of winning the lottery in the next 10 years. But I
> still buy lottery tickets now and then.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Strapping down batteries |
Hi,
Are there any clever ways to fix batteries to a
battery "box"? My battery box is not exactly
a box, but a flat piece of .125" with some angle
around the edges of the batteries to keep them
from moving forward and back or side to side.
My fallback is the standard Van's method of using
a U channel with a pair of long bolts, but I'm
curious if there are better ways. The batteries
will be behind my baggage compartment, and in
the event of an off field landing, I don't want
them flying forward.
Thanks,
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Noel,
I was under the impression that the IIVSG couldn't shoot an ILS (only
GPS with v/guidance). My understanding comes from reviewing the product
capability matrix
(http://www.trutrakflightsystems.com/ttfsproducts.html) and from a short
discussion with the TruTrak folks although I may not have asked the
right questions. Isn't it the Nav Modes feature that allows a LOC or
ILS approach? I've been thinking about a DFC 200 (or maybe 250) but
would really like to have vertical GPS guidance ala the IIVSG. My phone
call implied that this would probably be added to the DFC series in the
future. If the IIVSG can really do an ILS approach, what does the "Nav
Modes" on the DFC series feature provide? Since they both use the same
servos I've ordered them for my RV-10 but held off on the actual
autopilot.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Noel & Yoshie
Simmons
Subject: RE: RV-List: autopilots
-->
TruTrak Digiflight IIVSG $4995.00 coupled up to the CNX-80 will do
every thing you need. By itself; wing level, heading mode (internal Mag
sensor), Altitude hold along with climb/descend @ airspeed/Feet. Has
minim airspeed and max airspeed. CNX-80 has the vertical steering, GPS
steering, VOR, LOC, Glide slope and all the other great things I like.
Actually the CNX-80 is my favorite GPS/COM easy to use.
Noel
=
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Jurotich <mjurotich(at)hst.nasa.gov> |
The BlueMountainAvionics EFIS lite with two axis autopilot is supposed to
fly the localizer and glide slope supplied by a Nav radio.
I sure hope so since that is what is going into my panel upgrade.
Matthew M. Jurotich
NASA/Goddard Space Flight Center
Swales contractor to the
JWST ISIM Systems Engineer
m/c : 443
e-mail mail to:
phone : 301-286-5919
fax : 301-286-7021
JWST URL: <http://ngst1.gsfc.nasa.gov
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
I have the TruTrak DFC 250,
http://www.trutrakflightsystems.com/ttfsproducts.html#DFC250 . It does
all you asked about and more. It works as advertised and I love it. I
am just about finished with my recertification of my instrument ticket
(after 15 years) in my recently completed RV6A.
Here is a sequence of use using GPS navigation and an ILS approach.
On the ground, set cruising altitude in autopilot (AP)
After takeoff, push a button on my Infinity stick to engage Control
Wheel Steering (CWS). The AP will keep flying in the current
configuration i.e. rate of climb and heading.
Use CWS mode to select headings given by IFR Controllers. (select the
track needed to fly the appropriate heading)
At attitude, AP levels off.
Trim.
When established on the GPS Flight Path, engage AP GPSS mode.
AP will fly the GPS flight plan, select altitudes as necessary.
When nearing the ILS, select AP LOC NAV mode and enter inbound course.
Select the ILS intercept angle on the AP.
The AP will intercept the inbound course and altitude will be coupled
with the glide slope keeping you centered in both axis.
At DA, push the Vertical Speed Up button to select the rate of climb for
missed approach and the AP will automatically switch to BC mode and
track the Back Course.
For GPS Approaches, its even easier. Whatever is in the GPS flight plan
will be flown by the AP. Just select the altitudes you want on the
different legs.
The user manual can be found in the documents section of the TruTrak
website.
Ross Mickey
N9PT
-----Original Message-----
From: pearlman
Subject: RV-List: autopilots
I am looking for an autopilot other than an STEC which has ILS approach
capability, altitude hold, nav, etc. Any suggestions based on
experience?
jp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "russell parr" <rrparr12(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise |
RVers: There is a way to get new Bose X headsets for $796 each, no shipping
fee, no tax if shipped to a no sales tax state. Here's how: You have to
buy a batch of four, the fifth one is free. The price is $3980 which is 4 X
$995, with the fifth headset thrown in. The headset are $796 each because
$3980/5 = $796 each. They come with a 5 year warranty. They have to be
ordered through Mark Claprood or Jeff Taylor (two of the Bose reps.) during
an aviation trade show or a big fly-in. Bose requires that the set of 4 be
paid by one person with a credit card. The next opportunity to get this
deal is a trade show from May 18-20. You would need to confirm these dates
with one of the Bose guys. Oshkosh in August would also work. I made my
order during Sun & Fun two weeks ago. I've filled my order of 5 already.
You would need to contact Mark Claprood at 508-766-4655/508-904-4659 or
Jeff Taylor at 508-766-1083/800-766-8452. They only ship 4 of the five
initially. They ship the 5th one (the "free" one) 30 days later to give the
4 buyers a return time period. You can request to shorten the 30 days if
all the buyers are sure they aren't returning their headsets. I highly
recommend the portable type with 2AA batteries. The hardwired type still
has a volume control just like the portable type so you really aren't saving
much awkward weight plus you can use the battery kind in different
airplanes. My RV-4 is incredibly loud inside and the Bose is great. I
don't work for Bose. This E-mail is FYI.
Russ Parr rrparr12(at)hotmail.com
>From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise
>Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2004 11:50:34 -0500
>
>
>They may be $1000, but Bose headsets will be the last pair you ever own.
>Worth every penny.
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A Sold
>RV-10 Soon
>http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
>Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
>http://www.kitlog.com
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Leland" <Federigo(at)pacbell.net>
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise
>
>
> >
> > If you are considering the DRE 6000, read the customer reviews at:
> > http://www.avshop.com/catalog/reviews.html?productid=3815&#comment5
> > The reviews are definitely mixed.
> > Leland in Pleasanton
> > Wiring up EGTs on an RV9A
> >
> > "For those of you about ready to purchase a headset for your RV, you
>might
> > consider the DRE 6000. It's one-third the cost of the Bose X and
>about a
> > year and a half ago, Aviation Consumer magazine did a comparison
>of
>about
> > six leading headsets and several of the testers liked the
>performance of the
> > DRE (comparative "bang for the buck") and felt like it was close
>to
>the
> > noise canceling properties to the Bose X. My partner and I each
>bought one.
> > I paid $275 plus shipping for mine about a year ago."
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cammie Patch" <cammie(at)sunvalley.net> |
| Subject: | What size hole for step? |
I need to drill the hole in F-725 rib for the step (which I haven't ordered
yet). The plans say to drill it out with a 1 5/8" hole saw, but the prints
say to drill out to 1 1/2". I want to use a pie cutter to drill this hole,
what size should the finished diameter be?
Cammie
RV-7a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: Capacitive fuel probe errors? |
> In sort, when using autogas in our plane we should, for our own safety and
> our engine's, test each batch of fuel for water/alcohol, octane rating,
and
> Reid vapor pressure. Supposedly the equipment needed for this testing is
> available from ACS at reasonable cost.
I'm not sure it's necessary to test each batch for the above. If one buys
gas from a high volume station, it's a good bet you'll never see water in
your gas. Let's face it. If a gas station starts selling gas with water in
it, they're in big trouble. The worst time for problems with vapor pressure
is when the temps outside start warming up from the winter months. Just
before the gas companies start selling summer blends, one can run into vapor
locking at fast turn arounds a bit easier. Alcohol is another matter. In
some larger cities, alcohol is used in the gas. I'd say California would be
a good candidate for this mix. I've tested fuel in my area and have never
had alcohol in the gas. I limit my gas purchases to BP, Marathon, and
Shell. If memory serves me, it's the gas sold under the chevron brands that
may most likely have alcohol in it. Don't quote me on that, though.
Anyway, it takes very little time to test a batch of fuel, if one wants to
do that with each fillup. The savings is worth the effort.
> In addition, each autogas purchase may have different brand additives and
> time-of-the-year/season related additives, different additives due to
state,
> EPA, and local regulations/fuel laws. There is none of these differences
in
> AVgas. Each batch of AVgas is identical regardless of where or time of
year
> it is purchased.
That's true. Don't forget the cost that one pays for that warm fuzzy
feeling! Around here, even at the elevated auto gas prices, avgas is about
$1 higher per gallon. I've been using auto gas since 1986 and have had no
failures due to the gas. For that matter, none of my fuel injected auto
engines have failed either! In my old Skyhawk, I do remember a time when
the float sank in the carby; but, so did the club plane's carby float the
same week! Mine used auto gas. They used 100LL.
> Vapor lock has been studied by the EAA. Here is 2001 reference:
> http://www.eaa.org/education/fuel/vaporlock.html
I don't fly above 10,000 feet. Most of my flights are no higher than 3500'.
The only time I experience vapor locking is when I do a quick turnaround.
When I was taking up a lot of Young Eagles, I'd just make sure I had some
100LL mixed in with the auto gas. Half and half is more than enough.
Actually, I think 25% 100LL may be almost enough. If you're flying with a
fuel injected engine, forget it. Those things do well to not vapor lock on
100LL! I honestly believe one can fly above 10K', if one blends in a
little 100LL. I've not tested that theory, yet.
> In addition some airplane parts may be altered in size due to autogas
> additives. Here are other EAA references for anyone having further
> interest:
> http://www.eaa.org/education/fuel/materials.html
> http://www.eaa.org/education/fuel/oxygenated.html
I've not seen any of that in my airplanes. I've flown a 1965 C172 500+
hours, a 1977 Grumman-American Cheetah 900+ hours, and the RV-6A 300+ hours
with it. I have done this over a period that started in 1986.
> And if we are interested in considering a mix of AVgas with autogas,
please
> read this article by EAA:
> http://www.eaa.org/education/fuel/fuel/mix.html
The two will mix just fine. I usually add some 100LL to my airplane's diet
on cross country trips where I can't be sure of the auto gas. I can always
tell. The engine runs rough at start up when I add the 100LL.
> And *finally* with a newly rebuilt engine, here is article by EAA on use
of
> autogas:
> http://www.eaa.org/education/fuel/overhaul.html
Yes, be sure to use 100LL during the break in period. That adds a nice
coating of lead to the top end parts during the break in. After that, it
doesn't take much 100LL to maintain that coating.
I'm not sure how the capacitance vs regular float type senders differ. I do
know that I don't put much faith in either. I check my fuel before I
takeoff and know about what my airplane uses per hour. If my gauges show
empty, I'm in trouble. That's how I set them up.
If one is worried about additives in the gas one buys, one can call the
manufacture, or maybe even the distributor, to find out what additives are
used. Some are just fine. Some are not. Alcohol is a not. I've not ready
the listed articles, lately, and can't be sure; but, I think MTBE may be one
that's added often and is just fine in our engines. Read the articles, to
be sure.
I just hate to hear anyone downplay auto gas usage, as you can tell. Maybe
Larry in Indiana really didn't mean to do that and was just giving some
warnings; but, I've had folks tell me I'm going to crash and burn because of
my auto gas usage. If the FAA says it's OK to use and are testing unleaded
fuels that may very well become what we use in aircraft regularly, I think I
can use auto gas with some confidence that I'll survive it. I think my
flying regularly with it since 1986 should prove out my point. 'Nough said.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Scooter, healthy on auto gas after four years of flying)
RV-7A #70317 (Will also run on auto gas, if I ever get it done.)
EAA Tech Counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Strapping down batteries |
I found some heavy duty 24" long plastic tie wraps for about $0.25 apiece at
Home Depot that are just the right length to strap down my PC680. Of course
you have to cut them to get them off, unless you find some of the removable
kind. I think they are plenty strong enough, but if you are concerned, use
two (or more). Since they are plastic, you don't have to worry about them
shorting the terminals out.
Terry
Hi,
Are there any clever ways to fix batteries to a
battery "box"? My battery box is not exactly
a box, but a flat piece of .125" with some angle
around the edges of the batteries to keep them
from moving forward and back or side to side.
My fallback is the standard Van's method of using
a U channel with a pair of long bolts, but I'm
curious if there are better ways. The batteries
will be behind my baggage compartment, and in
the event of an off field landing, I don't want
them flying forward.
Thanks,
Mickey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Carpenter <Carpenter(at)pilot.pprune.com> |
| Subject: | Re:Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise |
Just my opinion. As a flight instructor I have the opportunity to do side-by-side
testing of various headsets with my students, who have a variety of headsets.
I only tested ANR sets
Immediate switching of headsets back and forth under same flight conditions (RPM,
Airspeed, Aircraft are constants).
I use Telex Stratus 50D.
Compared with: David Clark ANR, Lightspeed 3g (and lesser models of lightspeed),
Bose X (latest), Sennheizer ANR.
Conclusions: David Clark are toughest but also have the least ANR noise reduction,
but best Passive noise reduction and possibly the best warranty (I'm sure
up for debate).
Lightspeed have very good noise reduction, but are not as toughly built as the
others, best ANR for the buck but passive noise reduction is poor (due to thin
ear seals I believe).
Bose is most stylish, lightest, least bulky and ANR is very good, like Lightspeed's
ANR, but with better Passive noise reduction. Very noticeably not as good
as the ANR in Telex 50D.
Telex 50D very noticeably better ANR than all tested with only the David Clark
having better Passive noise reduction. Heavier, bulkier but still very comfortable
over long periods (10 hours a day in aircraft use) due to thick confor foam.
Warranty has be tested and works. (Telex promptly went beyond the call of
duty and replaced ear seals as well as telling I didn't need a receipt).
Sennheizer ANR seemed about the same as DC ANR but very much less well built. Passive
not tested. Overpriced and I have heard of warranty problems (huge time
delays among others).
If cost no object, Telex 50D is the best for hearing protection (and yes you can
still hear the engine)
Bose is best if you are tall and have no headroom (and want style).
Limitations: could not test Lightspeed, DC, or Bose against each other, only compared
to the constant, Telex.
Chris Carpenter
RV-8, Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: Capacitive fuel probe errors? |
Tetraethyl lead does absolutely nothing to protect the
valves, other reduce the knock index of the fuel.
Beliefs that leaded fues somehow "lubricates" the top
end, valves, etc. are absolutely false and based on
many years of old wives tales! Here's a good article
on lead myths:
http://www.avweb.com/news/columns/182149-1.html
Skylor
--- Jim Sears wrote:
>
> > And *finally* with a newly rebuilt engine, here is
> article by EAA on use
> of
> > autogas:
> > http://www.eaa.org/education/fuel/overhaul.html
>
> Yes, be sure to use 100LL during the break in
> period. That adds a nice
> coating of lead to the top end parts during the
> break in. After that, it
> doesn't take much 100LL to maintain that coating.
>
__________________________________
http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/careermakeover
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise |
My local provider here in Manitoba is...Manitoba Telecom. I't also the
company I work for. Now that you mention it, reception wasn't very good at
8500, and I was in analog mode. I normally fly lower when cruising for fun
and the reception is generally good for a short call. A lot of our customers
are farmers and rural folks so we (putting my company hat on) tend to spend
a lot on providing good coverage in rural areas.
Curt
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise
>
> Which cell phone/provider do you have that functions at 8500'?
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
> Curt Reimer said:
> >
> > My two cents:
> >
>
> [snip]
>
> > 8. The ability to plug a cell phone into the headset is another feature
> > I'd
> > never want to give up. It's great to be able to tell your wife from 8500
> > feet a hundred miles away that you'll be late for dinner and not to
> > initiate
> > any search for you.
> >
> > Frankly, Lightspeed sets the mark in terms of features and sound quality
> > for
> > me. As for comfort, that is a personal thing and you have to buy what
fits
> > your head the best. I'd say that the other manufacturers are going to
have
> > to reproduce the features of the 30-3Gs if they ever want to get my
> > business
> > again.
> >
> > Curt
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: Capacitive fuel probe errors? |
| From: | "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" <F.vanderHulst(at)ucol.ac.nz> |
> I'm not sure how the capacitance vs regular float type senders differ.
Hugely!
See Jim Weir's Kitplanes article at
http://www.rst-engr.com/rst/articles/KP89SEP.pdf for details of how a
capacitance-type sender works.
Here's my summary.
A capacitance sender is immersed in the fuel, and measures 'capacitance'
(an electrical property) between two plates. The capacitance depends on
the 'dielectric constant' (DC) of the material between the plates. Air's
DC is 1, avgas is about 2. Basically, the amount of capacitance is
proportional to amount of fuel. The capacitance effect of auto fuel
varies depending on what's in the fuel, and in what proportions. For
example, alcohol has a DC of 25. If you have autogas which is 1/8
alcohol, a capacitance guage will read about two times as high as for
avgas (i.e. if calibrated for avgas, it will read full when the tank is
half-full). How large the error is depends on the proportion of alcohol,
and the DCs of the other components of the fuel. Note that some cars
have capacitance fuel senders in them
(http://www.datcon.com/products/4intelli.htm).
A float sender will also read about 2% high if it is in 1/8-alcohol
mogas rather than avgas, due to the difference in density of the fuels.
If the float is gas-filled, then air pressure will also change the
reading. But I'd guess that in the presence of the huge inaccuracies
inherent in a float sender installed in an RV tank (reads full if the
tank is over, what, 3/4 full, errors due to slope when on the ground or
to unbalanced flight), these difference wouldn't be significant to most
pilots.
Incidentally, a couple of benefits of capacitance senders are
1. They can be made any shape so that (a) they can go right from the
bottom of the tank to the top, and (b) the output is proportional to the
amount of fuel, not the height of the fuel
2. They can be used to detect water in the tank (because water's DC is
78, even a little water will give a 'vastly overfull' reading). In fact,
in any aircraft, there's no reason why a capacitance-based
water-detector couldn't be put into each tank.
> If one is worried about additives in the gas one buys, one can call
the manufacture,
> or maybe even the distributor, to find out what additives are used.
Some are just fine.
> Some are not. Alcohol is a not. I've not ready the listed articles,
lately, and can't
> be sure; but, I think MTBE may be one that's added often and is just
fine in our engines.
My impression is that the problem isn't so much the engine as the
plastic and rubber things that the fuel comes into contact with. Some
years ago, I was working for a petrol pump (as in gas station pump)
manufacturer when NZ switched to 'unleaded' (ie low-lead, with additives
to raise the octane rating) auto fuel. We had problems with gaskets
swelling and leaking and so on. Various problems also occurred in cars
with plastic fuel lines dissolving and gaskets swelling/disintegrating.
At that time, several planes running mogas had engine/fuel problems
caused by the same things, to the extent that CAA banned use of mogas in
aircraft until the issues had been sorted out.
Frank
Learn real skills for the real world - Apply online
at http://www.ucol.ac.nz or call 0800 GO UCOL
(0800 46 8265) or txt free 3388 for more information
and make a good move to UCOL Universal College of
Learning.
Enrol with a public institute and be certain of your
future
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nick N" <rvator(at)nicknaf.com> |
| Subject: | Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise |
Throwing in my $.02 here...
I went through "Headset Hell" a year ago when trying to decide what to
buy to replace my ANR DC's. I researched all of them and demoed every
brand I could get my hands on. I ended up going with Lightspeed
3G-30's. Bose: As everyone has stated... Wow! But I'm not spending
$1K on a headset, not yet anyway. DC's, they all squeezed my head,
and/or put pressure on my ears. Great for 1 - 1.5 hours, then becomes
painful. All others I tried I found either uncomfortable or did not
have the level of ANR I wanted. Lightspeed: I find I can wear them for
hours and am completely comfortable. The ANR is great, good battery
life (25-30 hours), and as stated by other the Sound quality has to be
heard to be believed. ***Quote*** I honestly don't know if the price
difference for the 30-3Gs over the 20-3Gs is really worth it for the
extra 2 or 3 dBs of noise canceling. ***End Quote*** YES it is! I
originally bought a pair of G3-20's, flew them for an hour. I promptly
exchanged them for my 30's. That last little bit of Noise Reduction
(for me anyway) was worth the $100.
FWIW, none of my flying has been done in RV's (yet) so your results may
vary. I spend the majority of my time in a 172RG, 182 (Skydiver
airplane, NO insulation...), Cherokee 140, Cherokee 180, and an Arrow
200. All of which, with the exception of the 182, I'm sure are quieter
than most RV's.
Now for my question. I've see several posts by different people that
claim the Lightspeed's are not as durable as other brands. Is this
based on appearance or have people actually had problems with them?
I've had mine for just over a year (260 Hours), do not baby them, but do
not abuse them either, and they look / function like the day they where
new!
Maybe I'm missing something?
Nick
-------------
LS 3G-30's <--- LOVE EM!
DC 10-30's w/ Headsets Inc Conversion
No RV, but I do have a new house!
-------------
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Curt Reimer
Subject: Re: RV-List: Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise
My two cents:
Last summer at Osh I did the rounds looking for a new ANR headset. I
pretty
much tried them all, and went home with a pair of Lightspeed 30-3Gs.
They
aren't perfect, but every headset has strong & weak points. My main
criteria
was personal comfort. Turns out I must have large ears because every
other
headset I tried clamped part of my ear against my head, or pushed againt
my
ear in some way. My old DCs do this too. The lightspeed 3G series has a
lot
of room within the ear cup so the phones clamp against my head, not my
ears.
The ear cups are leather-covered confor or temper foam and
temperature-mold
to your head.
Other good & bad points about the 30-3Gs:
1. The ANR noise cancelling works great. One of the best in the business
according to the specs. I honestly don't know if the price difference
for
the 30-3Gs over the 20-3Gs is really worth it for the extra 2 or 3 dBs
of
noise cancelling. But I figured, what the hell...it was my Oshkosh gift
to
myself :-)
2. Passive noise cancelling is not so great. The ANR removes the low end
noise from the prop and engine, but the white noise from airflow around
the
canopy is still more than I would like. I think a lot of other
headphones
are better in this regard, including my old passive DCs.
3. The mike is pretty good, but not as good a David Clark.
4. I seem to get 20 hours+ out of a set of two AA batteries, which is
good
enough. When DC went to the 9v battery pack, I lost a lot of interest in
their ANR products. I prefer battery power for portability to other
aircraft, and AAs are dirt cheap if you buy the big strip packs.
5. While you just can't beat DC for quality and ruggedness, the
Lightspeeds
have held up fine so far. Mind you, I try not to step on them when I
climb
into the plane, or chuck them around. They don't look particularly
robust.
6. The sound quality of the 3Gs is awesome. This was the tipping point
for
me. These things sound as good as the studio monitor headphones that I
use
for my music recording work.
7. The ability to plug a CD or mp3 player directly into the headphones
is a
fabulous feature. My intercom isn't hi-fi and my wife isn't interested
in
listening to my music at my volume anyway, so I seldom play music
through
the intercom. This direct plug-in feature, along with the bass/treble
boost
options and the overall sound quality make these great headphones for
music-loving pilots.
8. The ability to plug a cell phone into the headset is another feature
I'd
never want to give up. It's great to be able to tell your wife from 8500
feet a hundred miles away that you'll be late for dinner and not to
initiate
any search for you.
Frankly, Lightspeed sets the mark in terms of features and sound quality
for
me. As for comfort, that is a personal thing and you have to buy what
fits
your head the best. I'd say that the other manufacturers are going to
have
to reproduce the features of the 30-3Gs if they ever want to get my
business
again.
Curt
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise |
I've never seen anything but "No Service" on my Nokia phone and AT&T
service, when I'm airborne. I figured it was done programmatically when
I was seeing too many towers at once.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Curt Reimer [mailto:cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca]
> Sent: Wednesday, April 28, 2004 8:01 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise
>
>
>
>
> My local provider here in Manitoba is...Manitoba Telecom. I't
> also the company I work for. Now that you mention it,
> reception wasn't very good at 8500, and I was in analog mode.
> I normally fly lower when cruising for fun and the reception
> is generally good for a short call. A lot of our customers
> are farmers and rural folks so we (putting my company hat on)
> tend to spend a lot on providing good coverage in rural areas.
>
> Curt
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise
>
>
> >
> > Which cell phone/provider do you have that functions at 8500'?
> >
> > -
> > Larry Bowen
> > Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> > http://BowenAero.com
> >
> > Curt Reimer said:
> > > -->
> > >
> > > My two cents:
> > >
> >
> > [snip]
> >
> > > 8. The ability to plug a cell phone into the headset is another
> > > feature I'd never want to give up. It's great to be able to tell
> > > your wife from 8500 feet a hundred miles away that you'll be late
> > > for dinner and not to initiate
> > > any search for you.
> > >
> > > Frankly, Lightspeed sets the mark in terms of features and sound
> > > quality for me. As for comfort, that is a personal thing and you
> > > have to buy what
> fits
> > > your head the best. I'd say that the other manufacturers
> are going
> > > to
> have
> > > to reproduce the features of the 30-3Gs if they ever want
> to get my
> > > business again.
> > >
> > > Curt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise |
> Frankly, Lightspeed sets the mark in terms of features and sound quality
> for
> me. As for comfort, that is a personal thing and you have to buy what
> fits
> your head the best. I'd say that the other manufacturers are going to
I really loved the Lightspeed headset - unfortunately
the headband is so thick that I kept hitting it on the top
of the canopy. So I went with the Bose X due to the thinner
headband and of course the quality. None of the other headsets
I tried even came close to the LightSpeed or Bose for comfort
and noise reduction.
-Dj
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com> |
| Subject: | Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise |
Unlike the old analog towers, the newer digital towers have high gain
antennas with very narrow beam widths. Their antenna beams are only a few
degrees wide so you are out of the beam at altitude.
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry Bowen
Subject: RE: RV-List: Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise
I've never seen anything but "No Service" on my Nokia phone and AT&T
service, when I'm airborne. I figured it was done programmatically when
I was seeing too many towers at once.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Curt Reimer [mailto:cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca]
> Sent: Wednesday, April 28, 2004 8:01 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise
>
>
>
>
> My local provider here in Manitoba is...Manitoba Telecom. I't
> also the company I work for. Now that you mention it,
> reception wasn't very good at 8500, and I was in analog mode.
> I normally fly lower when cruising for fun and the reception
> is generally good for a short call. A lot of our customers
> are farmers and rural folks so we (putting my company hat on)
> tend to spend a lot on providing good coverage in rural areas.
>
> Curt
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise
>
>
> >
> > Which cell phone/provider do you have that functions at 8500'?
> >
> > -
> > Larry Bowen
> > Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> > http://BowenAero.com
> >
> > Curt Reimer said:
> > > -->
> > >
> > > My two cents:
> > >
> >
> > [snip]
> >
> > > 8. The ability to plug a cell phone into the headset is another
> > > feature I'd never want to give up. It's great to be able to tell
> > > your wife from 8500 feet a hundred miles away that you'll be late
> > > for dinner and not to initiate
> > > any search for you.
> > >
> > > Frankly, Lightspeed sets the mark in terms of features and sound
> > > quality for me. As for comfort, that is a personal thing and you
> > > have to buy what
> fits
> > > your head the best. I'd say that the other manufacturers
> are going
> > > to
> have
> > > to reproduce the features of the 30-3Gs if they ever want
> to get my
> > > business again.
> > >
> > > Curt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
RV-List
| Subject: | Larry Hackney email address? |
Looking for an email address for Larry Hackney, builing an RV9A.
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon and Marge" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Re:Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise |
-->
Just my opinion. As a flight instructor I have the opportunity to do
side-by-side testing of various headsets with my students, who have a
variety of headsets. I only tested ANR sets Immediate switching of
headsets back and forth under same flight conditions (RPM, Airspeed,
Aircraft are constants). I use Telex Stratus 50D. Compared with: David
Clark ANR, Lightspeed 3g (and lesser models of lightspeed), Bose X
(latest), Sennheizer ANR.
Conclusions: David Clark are toughest but also have the least ANR noise
reduction, but best Passive noise reduction and possibly the best
warranty (I'm sure up for debate). Lightspeed have very good noise
reduction, but are not as toughly built as the others, best ANR for the
buck but passive noise reduction is poor (due to thin ear seals I
believe). Bose is most stylish, lightest, least bulky and ANR is very
good, like Lightspeed's ANR, but with better Passive noise reduction.
Very noticeably not as good as the ANR in Telex 50D. Telex 50D very
noticeably better ANR than all tested with only the David Clark having
better Passive noise reduction. Heavier, bulkier but still very
comfortable over long periods (10 hours a day in aircraft use) due to
thick confor foam. Warranty has be tested and works. (Telex promptly
went beyond the call of duty and replaced ear seals as well as telling I
didn't need a receipt). Sennheizer ANR seemed about the same as DC ANR
but very much less well built. Passive not tested. Overpriced and I have
heard of warranty problems (huge time delays among others). If cost no
object, Telex 50D is the best for hearing protection (and yes you can
still hear the engine) Bose is best if you are tall and have no headroom
(and want style).
Limitations: could not test Lightspeed, DC, or Bose against each other,
only compared to the constant, Telex. Chris Carpenter RV-8, Wings
Chris, et al: I would be interested in your take on the Sigtronics ANR
equipment. I have a set (2)and use them in my RV-4. I regard them as
very good but have no real basis for comparison, other than sampling
different systems at Oshkosh, etc. At my request Sigtronics provided a
ship's power adapter, complete with bayonet power connectors that fit in
place of the battery packs which I still possess. They are hot whenever
the electrical system is up and have no problem dealing with voltage
swings when starting the engine. The passive noise reduction seems to
be about the same as their non ANR sets. I have used them on long
flights and find them entirely satisfactory. Pity they are rather
ignored by the flying community.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise |
In a message dated 4/28/2004 5:54:14 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
rvator(at)nicknaf.com writes:
I've see several posts by different people that
claim the Lightspeed's are not as durable as other brands. Is this
based on appearance or have people actually had problems with them?
I've had mine for just over a year (260 Hours), do not baby them, but do
not abuse them either, and they look / function like the day they where
new!
Maybe I'm missing something?
===============================
Nick-
Yes, but you can look forward to returning them to Lightspeed Aviation for
intermittent cords, broken stirrups and sacked out headband springs. The good
thing though is that they will do all of these repairs for FREE because they
really stand behind their products. I still believe that my five year old 20Ks
(copilot's) and my two year old 25XLs (mine) are very good values.
GV (RV-6A N1GV flying 689 hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bruno <rv4(at)videotron.ca> |
| Subject: | Was Garmin GTX 327 |
Hello Listers
As usual I got a lot of excellent reply to my questions.
My Txpr was wired by John Stark so I'm gonna have to look
at the connector closely to see exactly what John did. I told him the unit
will be powered thru an avionic master switch so I hope it is.
I will also go thru the installation manual and look at the
set up pages for any info.
Once again thanks to all who replied
Bruno
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: Capacitive fuel probe errors? |
Very good response. Now that Skylor mentioned it, it seems I read that
somewhere on the list, or a publication, that this is true. I got my input
from the auto gas STC I purchased years ago. Thanks, Skylor!
Jim Sears in KY
EAA Tech Counselor
----- Original Message -----
From: "Skylor Piper" <skylor4(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: AeroElectric-List: Capacitive fuel probe errors?
>
> Tetraethyl lead does absolutely nothing to protect the
> valves, other reduce the knock index of the fuel.
> Beliefs that leaded fues somehow "lubricates" the top
> end, valves, etc. are absolutely false and based on
> many years of old wives tales! Here's a good article
> on lead myths:
>
> http://www.avweb.com/news/columns/182149-1.html
>
> Skylor
>
> --- Jim Sears wrote:
> >
>
> > > And *finally* with a newly rebuilt engine, here is
> > article by EAA on use
> > of
> > > autogas:
> > > http://www.eaa.org/education/fuel/overhaul.html
> >
> > Yes, be sure to use 100LL during the break in
> > period. That adds a nice
> > coating of lead to the top end parts during the
> > break in. After that, it
> > doesn't take much 100LL to maintain that coating.
> >
>
>
> __________________________________
> http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/careermakeover
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Francis Malczynski" <ebbfmm(at)yahoo.com> |
Listers. Im seriously thinking of relocating to South Carolina and would be
interested in hearing from anyone in SC about the tax implications of owning
an airplane in that state. My initial look at the property tax rates does
not comfort me. Please reply off list.Thanks
Fran Malczynski
RV-6 N594EF
Olcott, NY
ebbfmm(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Strapping down batteries |
Mickey,
We used a couple of 1.5" wide velcrow straps. Has worked great.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A - 260 hrs
>From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Strapping down batteries
>Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2004 18:05:41 +0200
>
>
>Hi,
>
>Are there any clever ways to fix batteries to a
>battery "box"? My battery box is not exactly
>a box, but a flat piece of .125" with some angle
>around the edges of the batteries to keep them
>from moving forward and back or side to side.
>
>My fallback is the standard Van's method of using
>a U channel with a pair of long bolts, but I'm
>curious if there are better ways. The batteries
>will be behind my baggage compartment, and in
>the event of an off field landing, I don't want
>them flying forward.
>
>Thanks,
>Mickey
>
>--
>Mickey Coggins
>http://www.rv8.ch/
>#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
There are several variables.
Where is SC are you considering?
Contact me off-line ...
(email or phone)
James
803-238-2113
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Francis
> Malczynski
> Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2004 7:15 AM
> To: RV-List
> Subject: RV-List: Relocation
>
>
> Listers. Im seriously thinking of relocating to South Carolina
> and would be
> interested in hearing from anyone in SC about the tax
> implications of owning
> an airplane in that state. My initial look at the property tax rates does
> not comfort me. Please reply off list.Thanks
>
> Fran Malczynski
> RV-6 N594EF
> Olcott, NY
> ebbfmm(at)yahoo.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Jurotich <mjurotich(at)hst.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | 2 magenetometers, Dynon |
I am planning to ditch the electric spinning gryos AI and DG in favor of a
second EFIS. Each would require a remote sensing magnetometer. Can I
place these side by side or one on top of the other? If they must be
separated, how far? If anybody has already done this, results? Pictures?
I have only one report on the FIX to the Dynon RFI problem. Has anyone
else installed the "dongle" and gotten rid of the interference?
Cross posted to RV and Aeroelectric lists.
Thanks in advance.
Matthew M. Jurotich
NASA/Goddard Space Flight Center
Swales contractor to the
JWST ISIM Systems Engineer
m/c : 443
e-mail mail to:
phone : 301-286-5919
fax : 301-286-7021
JWST URL: <http://ngst1.gsfc.nasa.gov
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lightspeed Timing Question |
The Report, Part 1 & more questions
Based on what I learned here, I checked the trigger bolt gap, and it was
probably closer to .040 maybe, .050. (the spec is ..025+/- .010) I
tightened it up and my timing advanced ~ 5 degrees. Well at least, I think
that is what caused the change, nothing else changed except the calender 1
day, but this has been a bit of an intermitent problem. Now I am running 20
DBTDC and 37 DBTDC. The runup and idle are noticibly when running on the
Lightspeed only.
I am still 5 deg from where I am supposed to be and where, based on a long
conversation with the builder, the airplane has been most of it's life. My
understanding of a trigger coil is it would either work or not work, it is
hard to imagine a scenario where it gets "weak?" This is puzzling too,
because the trigger bolt gap has not changed, there is no wear, or no sign
of any foriegn object damage in there anywhere. I am pretty certain That I
dont have an intake leak, the airplane is running on the rich side at idle
So what is going on? did moving the trigger bolt just happen to coincide
with some other intermittent probem?
My plan for now is to continue to fly and carefully monitor the mag drops,
at idle. and 1800. If I see any variation, I will check that against
mixture at idle. Anyother good ideas?
Thanks to everyone for the information.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lightspeed Timing Question |
Doug,
I have been working on a new 6A that will get inspected next week and we had
prblems also with the gap. I found that the closer the gap is the earlier
it will fire so we closed it to the minimum (.016) and it seems to fire much
better. Sometimes the magnetic strength of the interrupter bolt can can.
Not very often but it can happen. You may want to just get another bolt,
replace the existing one and see if that helps. I also know that on the
earlier models the interrupter colis are mounted on a plate bolted to the
case flange. That mounting plate is flat and has been known to bend
slightly thus changing the timing. Anyways, just a couple of ideas.
Mike Robertson
>From: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Lightspeed Timing Question
>Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2004 08:42:42 -0500
>
>
>The Report, Part 1 & more questions
>
>Based on what I learned here, I checked the trigger bolt gap, and it was
>probably closer to .040 maybe, .050. (the spec is ..025+/- .010) I
>tightened it up and my timing advanced ~ 5 degrees. Well at least, I think
>that is what caused the change, nothing else changed except the calender 1
>day, but this has been a bit of an intermitent problem. Now I am running
>20
>DBTDC and 37 DBTDC. The runup and idle are noticibly when running on the
>Lightspeed only.
>
>I am still 5 deg from where I am supposed to be and where, based on a long
>conversation with the builder, the airplane has been most of it's life. My
>understanding of a trigger coil is it would either work or not work, it is
>hard to imagine a scenario where it gets "weak?" This is puzzling too,
>because the trigger bolt gap has not changed, there is no wear, or no sign
>of any foriegn object damage in there anywhere. I am pretty certain That
>I
>dont have an intake leak, the airplane is running on the rich side at idle
>So what is going on? did moving the trigger bolt just happen to coincide
>with some other intermittent probem?
>
>My plan for now is to continue to fly and carefully monitor the mag drops,
>at idle. and 1800. If I see any variation, I will check that against
>mixture at idle. Anyother good ideas?
>
>Thanks to everyone for the information.
>
>Tailwinds,
>Doug Rozendaal
>
>
Lose those love handles! MSN Fitness shows you two moves to slim your waist.
http://fitness.msn.com/articles/feeds/article.aspx?dept=exercise&article=et_pv_030104_lovehandles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise |
In a message dated 4/29/2004 12:09:42 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Vanremog writes:
> Yes, but you can look forward to returning them to Lightspeed Aviation for
> intermittent cords, broken stirrups and sacked out headband springs. The good
> thing though is that they will do all of these repairs for
> FREE because they
> really stand behind their products.
Ditto that. My experience to the letter.
Bill B "Stormy"
380 hrs / 6 years on Lightspeeds
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise |
> Yes, but you can look forward to returning them to Lightspeed Aviation
for
> intermittent cords, broken stirrups and sacked out headband springs. The
good
> thing though is that they will do all of these repairs for
> FREE because they
> really stand behind their products.
>Ditto that. My experience to the letter.
DITTO DITTO.
I have a 6 yr old pair of L.S. 20k with the same issues.
Sent back for repair.
http://travel.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | baffle sealing fabric - measurements. |
1. What is the recommended gap between the aft edge of the cowling air
inlets and the forward edge of the baffles in the forward top inlets?
2. What is the recommended gap between the lower inlet and the airbox?
3. What is the recommended overlap of the sealing fabric over the (aluminum)
baffles?
4. What is the recommended overlap over the fiberglass side of the inlets?
Thanks,
Amit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tacaruth(at)ralcorp.com |
04/29/2004 03:54:57 PM
Hi All,
What are others using to hold wires on wiring runs in the fuselage area?
Would sticky wire-tie holders provide sufficient holding or would they come
loose after a while? Should one use Adel clamps? What is the recommended
spacing between holders?
Thanks in advance,
Tom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise |
In a message dated 4/29/04 11:28:04 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
SportAV8R(at)aol.com writes:
>
>
> In a message dated 4/29/2004 12:09:42 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Vanremog
> writes:
>
> >Yes, but you can look forward to returning them to Lightspeed Aviation for
> >intermittent cords, broken stirrups and sacked out headband springs. The
> good
> >thing though is that they will do all of these repairs for
> >FREE because they
> >really stand behind their products.
>
> Ditto that. My experience to the letter.
>
> Bill B "Stormy"
> 380 hrs / 6 years on Lightspeeds
>
>
Fellow listers,
I had intermittent cords on both my Lightspeed 20XLs at almost the same time
-- about 2 years of service -- and called the company. I told them I was
capable of replacing the cords if they would supply parts. They promptly sent
me
two complete systems up to the headsets which were very easy to replace --
just unscrew and unplug a tiny connector. Took only maybe ten minutes. It
looked like the new parts were improved to help reduce the possibility of the
problem happening again. All in all, I have been very happy with my Lightspeeds.
FWIW.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (almost ready for final assembly)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Strapping down batteries |
In a message dated 4/29/2004 7:26:30 AM Central Standard Time,
crowbotham(at)hotmail.com writes:
> We used a couple of 1.5" wide velcrow straps. Has worked great.
A couple of 1.5" pieces of velcro holding down a 15# battery that might come
loose in rough air, nose over or akro.
YOU GOT TO BE KIDDING !
BClary
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise |
Lightspeed's customer service is second to none. I was having some problems
with the mic on my 25XL while riding with friends to Sun N Fun 2002 and
stopped by their booth. They offered to look at them at their hotel that
night but weren't really equipped to do much. When I checked back the next
day they said they had never seen the glue fail on the earcups before so
rather than swap the mic they decided to give me a brand new set. Sometime
after I left their booth it dawned on me that the headset had been thru my
crash and had been soaked in gas and fire retardant foam. No wonder the glue
and mic failed. I'm surprised it worked at all. I didn't have the heart to
tell them that but I did leave the show with a new 30-3G set. So now my pax
can use the 25XL. Ya gotta love 'em.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
>
> In a message dated 4/29/04 11:28:04 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
> SportAV8R(at)aol.com writes:
>
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 4/29/2004 12:09:42 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> > Vanremog
> > writes:
> >
> > >Yes, but you can look forward to returning them to Lightspeed
> > >Aviation for
> > >intermittent cords, broken stirrups and sacked out
> headband springs. The
> > good
> > >thing though is that they will do all of these repairs for
> > >FREE because they
> > >really stand behind their products.
> >
> > Ditto that. My experience to the letter.
> >
> > Bill B "Stormy"
> > 380 hrs / 6 years on Lightspeeds
> >
> >
>
> Fellow listers,
>
> I had intermittent cords on both my Lightspeed 20XLs at
> almost the same time
> -- about 2 years of service -- and called the company. I
> told them I was
> capable of replacing the cords if they would supply parts.
> They promptly sent me
> two complete systems up to the headsets which were very easy
> to replace --
> just unscrew and unplug a tiny connector. Took only maybe
> ten minutes. It
> looked like the new parts were improved to help reduce the
> possibility of the
> problem happening again. All in all, I have been very happy
> with my Lightspeeds.
> FWIW.
>
> Dan Hopper
> RV-7A (almost ready for final assembly)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: Strapping down batteries |
>
>In a message dated 4/29/2004 7:26:30 AM Central Standard Time,
>crowbotham(at)hotmail.com writes:
>
> > We used a couple of 1.5" wide velcrow straps. Has worked great.
>
>A couple of 1.5" pieces of velcro holding down a 15# battery that might come
>loose in rough air, nose over or akro.
>YOU GOT TO BE KIDDING !
Typically, in commercial aircraft, you design for something like
10 g's forward, 4 g's up, 7 g's down, and about 2 g's sideways. This is for
objects that might come loose and hurt someone in an accident. A battery is
a critical component, so you would want to add a bit more margin to it,
especially in an RV which will have routine flight loads that could be more
than these numbers.
Automobiles often use 8 g's in the horizontal plane and 4 g's in
the vertical axis as a design criterion.
You would also want to stay away from materials that could be
weakened by the battery electrolyte without obviously showing damage. Nylon
would thus be a bad choice as it could become very weak, but look just fine.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wire Holders |
Tom,
In my view, the answer is both, and then some.
Adel clamps are ideal for securing larger wire bundles to structure. Smaller bundles,
such as we are likely to use are best attached using much lighter nylon
clamps. Between clamps, such as from one bulkhead to the next, I use wax (dacron)
tie cord every few inches to firmly bundle the wires together. No need
to worry that the cord will eventually come loose if it is attached properly using
a clove hitch followed by a square knot. The specifics of the knots are
outlined in AC 43 but a simple google search will reveal any number of boy scout
websites that use animation to illustrate how to properly make a clove hitch.
Tie cord is used extensively in military and commercial aircraft wire bundles.
Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
What are others using to hold wires on wiring runs in the fuselage area?
Would sticky wire-tie holders provide sufficient holding or would they come
loose after a while? Should one use Adel clamps? What is the recommended
spacing between holders?
Thanks in advance,
Tom
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wire Holders |
For single wires or small cables I just used red RTV. Dab a bit on the aluminum
and squish the wire into it. For larger wires or cables I used the plastic
tie-wrap anchors that you mentioned but I got the kind with no stick-um on them.
I scuff up the aluminum, then scuff up the plastic then stick-em with red
RTV.
The adhesive pads that most of those anchors come with will pop off after the first
warm day.
tacaruth(at)ralcorp.com wrote:
Hi All,
What are others using to hold wires on wiring runs in the fuselage area?
Would sticky wire-tie holders provide sufficient holding or would they come
loose after a while? Should one use Adel clamps? What is the recommended
spacing between holders?
Thanks in advance,
Tom
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Becker" <ctbecker(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Care to recommend some workshop furnishings? |
The EAA1000 table looks like mine, however, I used 2 pieces of 3/4 MDF
(medium density fiberboard) for the top. Its cheap, and is very easy to
replace when you drill a few too many holes in it. Its up against a wall
and the shelf is great for storing larger skins. I also built a couple of
adjustable saw horses (my own design) that allow me to set the height from
30 to 44 inches. On that I put a couple of cheap and light interior doors
for a work table. Its solid and very portable. A couple of pieces of
almost free carpet pad scraps from Lowes finished up the work table.
For a compressor. Harbor Freight has a 4.5 HP 21 Gal compressor that works
fine for one guy, and its only $169 (including shipping).
Charlie Becker
N464CB(res) RV8A(e)
Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David E. Nelson
Subject: Re: RV-List: Care to recommend some workshop furnishings?
Hi Ed,
I built a set of EAA Chapter 1000 tables. So far I'm very satisfied with
them
as they're sturdy, moderately heavy, but not bulky. The supplies you get
will
build two tables. I would highly recommend that you make a jig (out of some
2x4) for the screw patterns and glue all joints with wood glue. Also,
having
two drills (one with a pilot hole drill bit and the other with a phillips
bit)
was really handy. Tip: Use some bath bar soap (Irish Spring, Safeguard,
etc)
on the long wood screws and they'll go in a _lot_ easier and not tend to
strip
out the philips head. I also used the deck screws that come with their own
phillips bit.
http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/worktabl/worktabl.htm
As for compressor, I traded up from an oil-less unit to a 25 Gal, 110V, 5
HP,
belt driven, oil compressor and have been very happy with it. Handles all
my
drilling and priming needs w/o any problems....and I still have my hearing!
;)
Regards,
/\/elson
Austin, TX
RV-7A - Waiting on the wings....
On Mon, 26 Apr 2004, ed wrote:
>
> In preperation for starting my rv-8a qb, I was going to set up a
table
> to be my work surface. In particular I am wondering if it makes sense to
> have a bench up against a wall, or will I be better served by something on
> wheels so I can back it away and work on things from all angles. Since I
> will probbably be building this myself, does anyone have a recommendation
on
> what size I should make it?
>
>
> Also any recommendations for what size air compressor to get?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Reeves <williamdanielreeves(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: What size hole for step? |
I noticed the discrepancy between the Plan's and the instructions this week as
well. The diameter of the step is exactly 1 1/2". I drilled to the smaller dimension
and the step won't fit. I need to enlarge it to 1 5/8. 1 5/8 is the
number...
Dan
RV-7A
Cammie Patch wrote:
I need to drill the hole in F-725 rib for the step (which I haven't ordered
yet). The plans say to drill it out with a 1 5/8" hole saw, but the prints
say to drill out to 1 1/2". I want to use a pie cutter to drill this hole,
what size should the finished diameter be?
Cammie
RV-7a
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Jerry Springer wrote:
>
> When I do a registration search it says it is an RV-6A. The SB in the
> registration number caught my attention
> first as I thought it may be Sam Bs airplane :-)
>
> Jerry
Hey..........thanks for the vote of confidence, Jerry!!????!! :-)
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, N399SB, safely tucked into the hangar, towbar intact)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: baffle sealing fabric - measurements. |
In a message dated 4/29/2004 12:43:47 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
amitdagan(at)hotmail.com writes:
1. What is the recommended gap between the aft edge of the cowling air
inlets and the forward edge of the baffles in the forward top inlets?
2. What is the recommended gap between the lower inlet and the airbox?
3. What is the recommended overlap of the sealing fabric over the (aluminum)
baffles?
4. What is the recommended overlap over the fiberglass side of the inlets?
===================================
1. 3/8" (10mm)
2. 3/8" (10mm)
3. 3/4" min (19mm)
4. 1/2" (13mm)
GV (RV-6A N1GV flying 689 hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren Hurd <warren(at)ahyup.com> |
| Subject: | Fast Day Fly-In update |
Good Morning RV builders and Flyers,
I posted some photos of our Fast Day Fly-In at
http://ahyup.com/fast/ It was a great event, if I do say so myself. We
were a bit shy on the burgers and will try to do better next year. Got
lucky on the weather. The preceding day was a bit windy and the
following day was a washout. We netted enough money to pay for our
501(c)3 application though. So someday we could have a hanger for our
cooking! The next planned fly-in will be "The Great Pumpkin Fly-In" an
event that will coincide with the Keene Pumpkin Festival. (home of the
largest collection of lighted Jackolanterns, 10,000 plus I think) We
hope to have our fly-in last till midnight. By the way, I notified the
Keene Sentinel and had a very nice write up by their reporter. The
reporter even went for a plane ride.
Warren
http://ahyup.com/
90454 wings (still)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | New Style Nosewheel Pant Attach |
Howdy List-
Anyone come up with a way to attach the newer style (fat) nose pant that
doesn't require the holes for axle bolt access or allows removal of the pant
without taking off the wheel? I spoke with Alex Peterson who did this on the
earlier pants (see archives), but it doesn't work for the newer one since the
brackets are much wider and the opening at the front is about the same as the old
ones.
Or have any of y'all building a -10 seen how it's done on the prototype?
Looking at the April cover of SA there is only one little hole on the side of the
pant for (presumably) a towbar- Perhaps a very well-concealed plug or ?
Thanks-
Mark Phillips
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: New Style Nosewheel Pant Attach |
In a message dated 4/30/2004 8:40:09 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Fiveonepw writes:
> Anyone come up with a way to attach the newer style (fat) nose pant that
> doesn't require the holes for axle bolt access or allows
> removal of the pant
> without taking off the wheel?
Except for repairs to the pant itself (which I am now doing, BTW), I can think
of no reason to pull the pant off other than to remove the nose wheel (i.e., to
repack bearings or change a tire/tube). Therefore I considered and discarded
the idea of going to any trouble to make the pant removable independently of
the axle. I should add that I do have a nice spring-loaded and magnetically
latched door in one side for airing the tire. Why exactly would one want this
feature? I'm curious.
-Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert E. Lynch" <rv6lynch(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New Style Nosewheel Pant Attach |
All you have to do is put nut plates on the axle bolt attach brackets.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Style Nosewheel Pant Attach |
maybe I don't know what wheel pant you're talking about, but I have the new
style I think and it came with a drawing... had brackets like the mains...
Actually, I have another new one, one of the green s-glass pants that I need
to install, and I think it came with a drawing too... I will have to look
this weekend...
-Bill VonDane
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <Fiveonepw(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: New Style Nosewheel Pant Attach
Howdy List-
Anyone come up with a way to attach the newer style (fat) nose pant that
doesn't require the holes for axle bolt access or allows removal of the pant
without taking off the wheel? I spoke with Alex Peterson who did this on
the
earlier pants (see archives), but it doesn't work for the newer one since
the
brackets are much wider and the opening at the front is about the same as
the old
ones.
Or have any of y'all building a -10 seen how it's done on the prototype?
Looking at the April cover of SA there is only one little hole on the side
of the
pant for (presumably) a towbar- Perhaps a very well-concealed plug or ?
Thanks-
Mark Phillips
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Lightspeeds Experience |
I've owned a set of Lightspeed 20Ks for about 4 1/2 yrs. They are large and
bulky and kindof goofy looking, BUT they are the single most comfortable
headset I've ever put on my head.
Sound quality is excellent. They have been back to Lightspeed 2 times for
tweaks and repairs. Both times it was handled at no charge with a smile.
Overall I would recommend these to others with some reservations.
But, and this is a huge but. A couple of years at AOPA, right after
Lightspeed came out with their ANR version of their cheapie headset, the QFR
Solo XC. Retail was $275. Show special was $200 with rebate. This headset
does not have the cushy ear cups and headband. The headband is actually
very thinly padded, but its comfortable because the headset is very light.
The headband is a simple sprung wire affair. Much less plastic than my
20Ks.
These "economy" ANR headsets have now become the ones that I use all the
time. They have needed no repairs. Their more traditional and simple
construction seems to make them much more durrable. Also, my head doesn't
hit the canopy in negative G maneuvers.
I can recommend these headsets STRONGLY without reservation.
Don
"All of us need to be reminded that the federal government did not create
the states; the states created the federal government!"---Ronald Reagan
Mothers Day is May 9. Make it special with great ideas from the Mothers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Strapping down batteries |
The Odessey battery is sealed.
>From: Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Strapping down batteries
>Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2004 17:49:49 -0600
>
>
> >
> >In a message dated 4/29/2004 7:26:30 AM Central Standard Time,
> >crowbotham(at)hotmail.com writes:
> >
> > > We used a couple of 1.5" wide velcrow straps. Has worked great.
> >
> >A couple of 1.5" pieces of velcro holding down a 15# battery that might
>come
> >loose in rough air, nose over or akro.
> >YOU GOT TO BE KIDDING !
>
> Typically, in commercial aircraft, you design for something like
>10 g's forward, 4 g's up, 7 g's down, and about 2 g's sideways. This is for
>objects that might come loose and hurt someone in an accident. A battery is
>a critical component, so you would want to add a bit more margin to it,
>especially in an RV which will have routine flight loads that could be more
>than these numbers.
>
> Automobiles often use 8 g's in the horizontal plane and 4 g's in
>the vertical axis as a design criterion.
>
> You would also want to stay away from materials that could be
>weakened by the battery electrolyte without obviously showing damage. Nylon
>would thus be a bad choice as it could become very weak, but look just
>fine.
>
>
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| From: | "RO" <ozambela(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Style Nosewheel Pant Attach |
please remove mfrom your list
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert E. Lynch" <rv6lynch(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: New Style Nosewheel Pant Attach
>
> All you have to do is put nut plates on the axle bolt attach brackets.
>
> Bob
>
>
April 21, 2004 - April 30, 2004
RV-Archive.digest.vol-pf