RV-Archive.digest.vol-pg
April 30, 2004 - May 12, 2004
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | Re: Lightspeeds Experience |
Donald Mei wrote:
>
>
> I've owned a set of Lightspeed 20Ks for about 4 1/2 yrs. They are large and
> bulky and kindof goofy looking, BUT they are the single most comfortable
> headset I've ever put on my head.
>
> Sound quality is excellent. They have been back to Lightspeed 2 times for
> tweaks and repairs. Both times it was handled at no charge with a smile.
> Overall I would recommend these to others with some reservations.
>
> But, and this is a huge but. A couple of years at AOPA, right after
> Lightspeed came out with their ANR version of their cheapie headset, the QFR
> Solo XC. Retail was $275. Show special was $200 with rebate. This headset
> does not have the cushy ear cups and headband. The headband is actually
> very thinly padded, but its comfortable because the headset is very light.
> The headband is a simple sprung wire affair. Much less plastic than my
> 20Ks.
>
> These "economy" ANR headsets have now become the ones that I use all the
> time. They have needed no repairs. Their more traditional and simple
> construction seems to make them much more durrable. Also, my head doesn't
> hit the canopy in negative G maneuvers.
> I can recommend these headsets STRONGLY without reservation.
>
> Don
My experience with Lightspeed mirrors Don's. A couple of years ago I
looked at the QFR's as a replacement for my old 15K's, but the new model
just looked too flimsy. Last year at S-N-F I decided to give them
another look since I was tired of bumping my head against the canopy in
light turbulence. I purchased a set of QFR's and have flown them for a
year. I am completely satisfied with them and I rarely touch the canopy,
even in moderate turbulence due to the thin yet comfortable headband.
They do have a bit more clamping force than the plastic Lightspeeds, but
they represent a tremendous value when comparing performance to price.
In spite of their wimpy appearance, they have proved to be very durable.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "RO" <ozambela(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Lightspeeds Experience |
please remove mfrom your list
----- Original Message -----
From: "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Lightspeeds Experience
>
>
> I've owned a set of Lightspeed 20Ks for about 4 1/2 yrs. They are large
and
> bulky and kindof goofy looking, BUT they are the single most comfortable
> headset I've ever put on my head.
>
> Sound quality is excellent. They have been back to Lightspeed 2 times for
> tweaks and repairs. Both times it was handled at no charge with a smile.
> Overall I would recommend these to others with some reservations.
>
> But, and this is a huge but. A couple of years at AOPA, right after
> Lightspeed came out with their ANR version of their cheapie headset, the
QFR
> Solo XC. Retail was $275. Show special was $200 with rebate. This
headset
> does not have the cushy ear cups and headband. The headband is actually
> very thinly padded, but its comfortable because the headset is very light.
> The headband is a simple sprung wire affair. Much less plastic than my
> 20Ks.
>
> These "economy" ANR headsets have now become the ones that I use all the
> time. They have needed no repairs. Their more traditional and simple
> construction seems to make them much more durrable. Also, my head doesn't
> hit the canopy in negative G maneuvers.
> I can recommend these headsets STRONGLY without reservation.
>
> Don
>
>
> "All of us need to be reminded that the federal government did not create
> the states; the states created the federal government!"---Ronald Reagan
>
> Mothers Day is May 9. Make it special with great ideas from the Mothers
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
I just checked the Lightspeed web site. The one I raved about was the QFR
Solo ANR. Lightspeed has refurbs of this model for $200 on their web site
for sale direct. ( anrheadsets.com )This is a great deal on an excellent
anr headset.
Don
it's FREE! http://messenger.msn.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "RO" <ozambela(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Strapping down batteries |
please remove me from your list
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Strapping down batteries
>
> The Odessey battery is sealed.
>
>
> >From: Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Strapping down batteries
> >Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2004 17:49:49 -0600
> >
> >
> > >
> > >In a message dated 4/29/2004 7:26:30 AM Central Standard Time,
> > >crowbotham(at)hotmail.com writes:
> > >
> > > > We used a couple of 1.5" wide velcrow straps. Has worked great.
> > >
> > >A couple of 1.5" pieces of velcro holding down a 15# battery that might
> >come
> > >loose in rough air, nose over or akro.
> > >YOU GOT TO BE KIDDING !
> >
> > Typically, in commercial aircraft, you design for something
like
> >10 g's forward, 4 g's up, 7 g's down, and about 2 g's sideways. This is
for
> >objects that might come loose and hurt someone in an accident. A battery
is
> >a critical component, so you would want to add a bit more margin to it,
> >especially in an RV which will have routine flight loads that could be
more
> >than these numbers.
> >
> > Automobiles often use 8 g's in the horizontal plane and 4 g's
in
> >the vertical axis as a design criterion.
> >
> > You would also want to stay away from materials that could be
> >weakened by the battery electrolyte without obviously showing damage.
Nylon
> >would thus be a bad choice as it could become very weak, but look just
> >fine.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "RO" <ozambela(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Lightspeeds Experience |
please remove me from your list
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Lightspeeds Experience
>
> Donald Mei wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > I've owned a set of Lightspeed 20Ks for about 4 1/2 yrs. They are large
and
> > bulky and kindof goofy looking, BUT they are the single most comfortable
> > headset I've ever put on my head.
> >
> > Sound quality is excellent. They have been back to Lightspeed 2 times
for
> > tweaks and repairs. Both times it was handled at no charge with a
smile.
> > Overall I would recommend these to others with some reservations.
> >
> > But, and this is a huge but. A couple of years at AOPA, right after
> > Lightspeed came out with their ANR version of their cheapie headset, the
QFR
> > Solo XC. Retail was $275. Show special was $200 with rebate. This
headset
> > does not have the cushy ear cups and headband. The headband is actually
> > very thinly padded, but its comfortable because the headset is very
light.
> > The headband is a simple sprung wire affair. Much less plastic than my
> > 20Ks.
> >
> > These "economy" ANR headsets have now become the ones that I use all the
> > time. They have needed no repairs. Their more traditional and simple
> > construction seems to make them much more durrable. Also, my head
doesn't
> > hit the canopy in negative G maneuvers.
> > I can recommend these headsets STRONGLY without reservation.
> >
> > Don
>
>
> My experience with Lightspeed mirrors Don's. A couple of years ago I
> looked at the QFR's as a replacement for my old 15K's, but the new model
> just looked too flimsy. Last year at S-N-F I decided to give them
> another look since I was tired of bumping my head against the canopy in
> light turbulence. I purchased a set of QFR's and have flown them for a
> year. I am completely satisfied with them and I rarely touch the canopy,
> even in moderate turbulence due to the thin yet comfortable headband.
> They do have a bit more clamping force than the plastic Lightspeeds, but
> they represent a tremendous value when comparing performance to price.
> In spite of their wimpy appearance, they have proved to be very durable.
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "RO" <ozambela(at)hotmail.com> |
remove me from your lists
----- Original Message -----
From: "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: QFR Solo
>
> I just checked the Lightspeed web site. The one I raved about was the
QFR
> Solo ANR. Lightspeed has refurbs of this model for $200 on their web site
> for sale direct. ( anrheadsets.com )This is a great deal on an excellent
> anr headset.
>
> Don
>
> it's FREE! http://messenger.msn.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu> |
RO wrote:
>
> remove me from your lists
Hi RO,
At the bottom of each message you will see a place
to go to unsubscribe.
Hope this helps,
-Dj
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
Subject: | Re: Lightspeeds Experience |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Lightspeeds Experience
>
> Donald Mei wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > I've owned a set of Lightspeed 20Ks for about 4 1/2 yrs. They are large
and
> > bulky and kindof goofy looking, BUT they are the single most comfortable
> > headset I've ever put on my head.
> >
> > Sound quality is excellent. They have been back to Lightspeed 2 times
for
> > tweaks and repairs. Both times it was handled at no charge with a
smile.
> > Overall I would recommend these to others with some reservations.
> >
> > But, and this is a huge but. A couple of years at AOPA, right after
> > Lightspeed came out with their ANR version of their cheapie headset, the
QFR
> > Solo XC. Retail was $275. Show special was $200 with rebate. This
headset
> > does not have the cushy ear cups and headband. The headband is actually
> > very thinly padded, but its comfortable because the headset is very
light.
> > The headband is a simple sprung wire affair. Much less plastic than my
> > 20Ks.
> >
> > These "economy" ANR headsets have now become the ones that I use all the
> > time. They have needed no repairs. Their more traditional and simple
> > construction seems to make them much more durrable. Also, my head
doesn't
> > hit the canopy in negative G maneuvers.
> > I can recommend these headsets STRONGLY without reservation.
> >
> > Don
>
>
> My experience with Lightspeed mirrors Don's. A couple of years ago I
> looked at the QFR's as a replacement for my old 15K's, but the new model
> just looked too flimsy. Last year at S-N-F I decided to give them
> another look since I was tired of bumping my head against the canopy in
> light turbulence. I purchased a set of QFR's and have flown them for a
> year. I am completely satisfied with them and I rarely touch the canopy,
> even in moderate turbulence due to the thin yet comfortable headband.
> They do have a bit more clamping force than the plastic Lightspeeds, but
> they represent a tremendous value when comparing performance to price.
> In spite of their wimpy appearance, they have proved to be very durable.
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov> |
Subject: | Re: Strapping down batteries |
>
>The Odessey battery is sealed.
Not really.
It is a Valve-Regulated Sealed Lead Acid (VRSLA) battery. It has
small "Bunsen" valves on each cell under a strip of plastic on the top.
These valves maintain a pressure of a few psi within each cell to aid in
the recombination of the gases evolved during charge and discharge. Small
amounts of hydrogen, oxygen and sulfuric acid vapor come out of these vents
all the time. While the quantity released is much less than old fashioned
flooded lead-acid batteries, these "sealed" batteries do indeed vent.
If you accidentally subject a VRSLA battery to too much voltage,
(if your voltage regulator malfunctions, for example) then they vent
copiously. This would quickly weaken a nylon strap. The normal venting
would slowly weaken a nylon strap.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Terry Williams <7ecapilot(at)comcast.net> |
Maybe you mean the QFR X-Country? I have the QFR Solo and it is a
non-ANR headset. A really fine one, mind you. Very comfortable and
quiet. My only beef (not just with this headset either) is that the mic
sensitivity causes most intercoms to remain open after I talk for about
a second or 2. None of my friends' DCs do that. The 1 or 2 seconds of
wind and engine noise is just little annoying. I haven't tried to mess
with the gain adjustment on the mic for fear of screwing it up. But,
otherwise I think the QFR Solo is a great headset and an excellent
value.
tw
On Apr 30, 2004, at 7:05 AM, Donald Mei wrote:
>
> I just checked the Lightspeed web site. The one I raved about was the
> QFR
> Solo ANR. Lightspeed has refurbs of this model for $200 on their web
> site
> for sale direct. ( anrheadsets.com )This is a great deal on an
> excellent
> anr headset.
>
> Don
>
> it's FREE! http://messenger.msn.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
> on lead myths:
>
> http://www.avweb.com/news/columns/182149-1.html
>
My experience has shown me that I slightly disagree with this person's
article, or at least the spirit of it. That said I'm not certain of the
science of it as I didn't do anything to prove the source of the problem,
but:
I was rebuilding a few engines back then when automotive was going to
unleaded (late 70s). When the aircooled 4 cyls opposed auto engines were run
on unleaded they tended to go through valve seats more pronouncedly. The
"unproved" theory was that the TEL did act as an anti scuffing agent, much
like our existing lubricants do. Essentially when the two surfaces are
pounded together by closing, while in a very hot state the tendancy is for
them to stick slightly. Something about the leaded gasoline either reduced
this sticking or produced a conversion layer that easily separated with less
errosion to the seat.
Not too long after this problem showed up there was a fix, that if I
remember correctly, was a change in both the valves and the seats.
Now, was this effect caused by the loss of TEL, or was it caused by the TEL
replacement additives? Don't know, but I do know that the change in wear was
caused by switching to unleaded.
So my disagreement was with the article's supposition that these issues were
merely "wives" (or more probably husband's) tales, when in fact there were
pattern problems that occured to some engines during the transition to
unleaded. Some of those problems were related to the switch and some
weren't. And these problems were addressed either by intent or by accident.
And the only reason I take exception to the supposition now, is that the
same thing will occur as we continue transitioning to unleaded in the
aviation industry. Some of the problems will be real and eventually fixable,
and some will be fiction sprung from real problems combined with ignorance
and fertile imaginations.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Lightspeeds Experience |
In a message dated 4/30/04 8:29:32 AM Central Daylight Time,
don_mei(at)hotmail.com writes:
> I can recommend these headsets STRONGLY without reservation.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Same hear- REAL happy with my XC's!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Lightspeeds Experience |
I own 5 headsets.
Only the ANR ones are adequate for me in RVs (the fun over spam cans seems
to come with a sound level price tag but worth it).
I have flown for about an hour with Bose. I honestly couldn't tell the
difference once the engine ran between them and the Lightspeeds with respect
to how well it worked. They are nice and light weight and low profile but
not eough to spend a grand on. I own a lightspeed 15XL that's got to be at
least 5 or 6 years old now. It was great in Florida but the ear seals have
real issues dealing with cold in PA. They freeze stiff until you wear them
for a while and the cover material is falling apart. They are supposed to
be sending me new ear pieces. One time I heard a crack as I was first
putting them on last winter. I thought I had cracked the plastic headband
when stretching them open first thing in the morning. I kept wondering if
they were going to snap apart completely while flying. I never did find the
source of the cracking noise. Maybe next winter. ;-)
I just bought a pair of the ANR cross countries at SNF for my back seater
and used them all the way back myself. I like them a lot as far as comfort
and they are OK as far as muting sound. The mic though sucked. Everytime I
talked there was instant 'sound of wind' feedback in my ears. Also, if I
turned the mic into a draft I could get that to happen too. If I yawned and
broke the ear seal it would also occur. I made sure the mic was positioned
correctly. I turned down the gain once I saw how but don't know if that will
fix it. If that doesn't fix it I will return them. The small profile
headband doesn't ever hit the canopy and that's important in the back seat
of the 8. Also, they stay on your head a LOT better than Lightspeed's
higher priced ANRs do. Also, the traditionally shaped ear piece can be
replaced with gel as an upgrade (so I was told but haven't done so yet).
lucky
----Original Message Follows----
From: Fiveonepw(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Lightspeeds Experience
Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2004 16:30:14 EDT
In a message dated 4/30/04 8:29:32 AM Central Daylight Time,
don_mei(at)hotmail.com writes:
> I can recommend these headsets STRONGLY without reservation.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Same hear- REAL happy with my XC's!
Mark
Watch LIVE baseball games on your computer with MLB.TV, included with MSN
Premium!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "RO" <ozambela(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: New Style Nosewheel Pant Attach |
please remove me from your list
----- Original Message -----
From: <SportAV8R(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: New Style Nosewheel Pant Attach
>
> In a message dated 4/30/2004 8:40:09 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Fiveonepw
writes:
>
> > Anyone come up with a way to attach the newer style (fat) nose pant that
> > doesn't require the holes for axle bolt access or allows
> > removal of the pant
> > without taking off the wheel?
>
> Except for repairs to the pant itself (which I am now doing, BTW), I can
think of no reason to pull the pant off other than to remove the nose wheel
(i.e., to repack bearings or change a tire/tube). Therefore I considered
and discarded the idea of going to any trouble to make the pant removable
independently of the axle. I should add that I do have a nice spring-loaded
and magnetically latched door in one side for airing the tire. Why exactly
would one want this feature? I'm curious.
>
> -Bill B
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "RO" <ozambela(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: New Style Nosewheel Pant Attach |
Remove me please.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: New Style Nosewheel Pant Attach
>
> maybe I don't know what wheel pant you're talking about, but I have the
new
> style I think and it came with a drawing... had brackets like the
mains...
> Actually, I have another new one, one of the green s-glass pants that I
need
> to install, and I think it came with a drawing too... I will have to look
> this weekend...
>
>
> -Bill VonDane
> EAA Tech Counselor
> RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
> www.vondane.com
> www.creativair.com
> www.epanelbuilder.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Fiveonepw(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: New Style Nosewheel Pant Attach
>
>
> Howdy List-
>
> Anyone come up with a way to attach the newer style (fat) nose pant that
> doesn't require the holes for axle bolt access or allows removal of the
pant
> without taking off the wheel? I spoke with Alex Peterson who did this on
> the
> earlier pants (see archives), but it doesn't work for the newer one since
> the
> brackets are much wider and the opening at the front is about the same as
> the old
> ones.
>
> Or have any of y'all building a -10 seen how it's done on the prototype?
> Looking at the April cover of SA there is only one little hole on the side
> of the
> pant for (presumably) a towbar- Perhaps a very well-concealed plug or ?
>
> Thanks-
> Mark Phillips
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "RO" <ozambela(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: New Style Nosewheel Pant Attach |
Please remove me from your list
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: New Style Nosewheel Pant Attach
>
> maybe I don't know what wheel pant you're talking about, but I have the
new
> style I think and it came with a drawing... had brackets like the
mains...
> Actually, I have another new one, one of the green s-glass pants that I
need
> to install, and I think it came with a drawing too... I will have to look
> this weekend...
>
>
> -Bill VonDane
> EAA Tech Counselor
> RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
> www.vondane.com
> www.creativair.com
> www.epanelbuilder.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Fiveonepw(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: New Style Nosewheel Pant Attach
>
>
> Howdy List-
>
> Anyone come up with a way to attach the newer style (fat) nose pant that
> doesn't require the holes for axle bolt access or allows removal of the
pant
> without taking off the wheel? I spoke with Alex Peterson who did this on
> the
> earlier pants (see archives), but it doesn't work for the newer one since
> the
> brackets are much wider and the opening at the front is about the same as
> the old
> ones.
>
> Or have any of y'all building a -10 seen how it's done on the prototype?
> Looking at the April cover of SA there is only one little hole on the side
> of the
> pant for (presumably) a towbar- Perhaps a very well-concealed plug or ?
>
> Thanks-
> Mark Phillips
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard Suffoletto" <rsuffoletto(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Painting / Finishing interior |
For a number of reasons it is not possible for me to paint the interior
of the RV-7A I am building. It is in a two car garage and building a
tent over it is not an option, nor do I want to move the fuselage to
another location and then bring it back. I plan to finish some of the
inside with upholstered panels, however there will be areas that will
need to be painted. I will have the exterior professionally painted. Has
anyone had success with painting the interior at the same time?
Any suggestions?
Thanks
Richard
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: What size hole for step? |
I just finished this job. I used a 1 1/2" hole cutter but I had to open it
slightly more with a small scotchbrite wheel. I looked at this for days
before actually making the cut only to find out this was a very simple job.
The thing that perplexed me the most was what angle to rivet the step to the
fuselage, nothing in the plans about this. Mine turned out fine and I have
plenty of pics if you are interested.
Karie Daniel
RV-7A QB (in progress)
Sammamish, WA.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cammie Patch" <cammie(at)sunvalley.net>
Subject: RV-List: What size hole for step?
>
>
> I need to drill the hole in F-725 rib for the step (which I haven't
ordered
> yet). The plans say to drill it out with a 1 5/8" hole saw, but the prints
> say to drill out to 1 1/2". I want to use a pie cutter to drill this hole,
> what size should the finished diameter be?
> Cammie
> RV-7a
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "deruiteraircraftservices" <deruiteraircraftservices(at)btinternet.com> |
Subject: | Leadtime on Lycomings |
Hi all,
Anyone out there have a new lycoming on order through Van's? Our's about 4
weeks late and still no sign. It was originally due at the start of april.
marcel
RV7, almost finished, no engine
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Strapping down batteries |
In a message dated 4/28/04 4:30:11 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
terry(at)tcwatson.com writes:
> I found some heavy duty 24" long plastic tie wraps for about $0.25 apiece
> at
> Home Depot that are just the right length to strap down my PC680. Of course
> you have to cut them to get them off, unless you find some of the removable
> kind. I think they are plenty strong enough, but if you are concerned, use
> two (or more). Since they are plastic, you don't have to worry about them
> shorting the terminals out.
>
I would urge you to reconsider using plastic tie wraps for battery hold
downs. Even the black ones can become brittle with time. Discovered this when I
used them to temporarily attach fluorescent shop lights to hangar ceiling. Some
of them broke in less than a year and they were not exposed to the sun.
Dale Ensing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
Listers,
I will spill my guts for the benefit of all of you, especially nosedragger
pilots. I too flew my plane (a Cessna 150) with the towbar attached. Let me
tell the whole story:
It was late one evening. I landed and was getting ready to put the plane
away in a large hanger shared by about 6 airplanes. I attached the towbar and
then realized that one of the planes was still out flying that needed to go in
before mine, so I laid the towbar (still attached) on the ground and went into
the hangar to shoot the sh.. oops -- bull -- with some of the guys. About
that time my stepson from out of town showed up and was really excited about
taking a ride. The plane was warm and had just been flown -- no need for a
preflight -- so a quick ride around the area was taken. Uh oh!!
Well, fortunately (in some ways), I had completely forgotten about the towbar
until after landing and noticing about a half inch curl at the tip of each
prop blade. Thank God I wasn't aware of the towbar being attached, I was able
to make a perfect landing which otherwise may have been done in a state of
panic.
My wife said she saw sparks as we started the takeoff roll, and come to think
of it I heard some strange sounds too, but thought it was just some bouncy
noises that we always get on the grass strip.
OK. Heres why it will never happen again. I NEVER, EVER leave the airplane
with the towbar attached. Needless to say it is automatic on my preflight to
check for the towbar. Nothing makes a believer out of you like having it
happen to you.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (getting really close)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | Re: Strapping down batteries |
DWENSING(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 4/28/04 4:30:11 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> terry(at)tcwatson.com writes:
>
>
>
>>I found some heavy duty 24" long plastic tie wraps for about $0.25 apiece
>>at
>>Home Depot that are just the right length to strap down my PC680. Of course
>>you have to cut them to get them off, unless you find some of the removable
>>kind. I think they are plenty strong enough, but if you are concerned, use
>>two (or more). Since they are plastic, you don't have to worry about them
>>shorting the terminals out.
>>
>
>
> I would urge you to reconsider using plastic tie wraps for battery hold
> downs. Even the black ones can become brittle with time. Discovered this when
I
> used them to temporarily attach fluorescent shop lights to hangar ceiling. Some
> of them broke in less than a year and they were not exposed to the sun.
> Dale Ensing
Just as a data point, I have used large plastic cable ties to secure the
small battery on the firewall of my RV-6 for the past 2 1/2 years:
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/battery.htm
I have seen no degradation of the ties in spite of dire warnings to the
contrary. When I replace the battery every two years, it gets new ties.
The battery is located where I can see the ties every time I check the
oil during preflight.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
Subject: | Re: Strapping down batteries |
There is a wide variety in quality and materials for tie wraps.
Quality ones will outlast you, cheapo ones ( not neccesarily $$ cheap )
will only last a very short time.
there are tiewraps made who's sole purpose is to keep a bundle of wires
neat till you arrive home from home depot or where ever you bought that
extension cord. then there are tiewraps made to keep industrial stuff
together, and then there are tiewraps designed to be in engine
compartments in hot oily conditions. All designed for specific purposes.
you wouldn't want to pay an extra dollar just for a tiewrap to keep the
extension cord together, you'd be happy to pay many extra dollars for a
good tiewrap that holds your battery in place.
If you do not know the material they are made from you cannot draw
conclusions as to their longlevety
Gert
Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
> DWENSING(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
>>
>>In a message dated 4/28/04 4:30:11 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>>terry(at)tcwatson.com writes:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>I found some heavy duty 24" long plastic tie wraps for about $0.25 apiece
>>>at
>>>Home Depot that are just the right length to strap down my PC680. Of course
>>>you have to cut them to get them off, unless you find some of the removable
>>>kind. I think they are plenty strong enough, but if you are concerned, use
>>>two (or more). Since they are plastic, you don't have to worry about them
>>>shorting the terminals out.
>>>
>>
>>
>>I would urge you to reconsider using plastic tie wraps for battery hold
>>downs. Even the black ones can become brittle with time. Discovered this when
I
>>used them to temporarily attach fluorescent shop lights to hangar ceiling. Some
>>of them broke in less than a year and they were not exposed to the sun.
>>Dale Ensing
>
>
>
> Just as a data point, I have used large plastic cable ties to secure the
> small battery on the firewall of my RV-6 for the past 2 1/2 years:
>
> http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/battery.htm
>
> I have seen no degradation of the ties in spite of dire warnings to the
> contrary. When I replace the battery every two years, it gets new ties.
> The battery is located where I can see the ties every time I check the
> oil during preflight.
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Neilekins(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Strapping down batteries |
I would try the battery tie downs you find on a boat battery. It s light and
strong...Neil
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Greg Puckett" <rv8er(at)myawai.com> |
Subject: | Louis Smith's email address??? |
Does anyone have Louis Smith's email address? The one on his web site
seems to be invalid.
Thanks,
Greg Puckett
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Scott <rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com> |
Subject: | Jones-Blair paint Has anyone used it? |
Bob Brashear recommends using Jones-Blair Acrylithane, which he claims runs
$33 / gal. See http://65.219.228.161/articles/voices_BobBrashear.htm
Has anyone used this stuff? Is it any good? Easy to apply?
Richard Scott
9 Emp
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 5/1/04 8:17:47 AM Pacific Daylight Time, Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
writes:
<< no need for a preflight >>
Another set of famous last words?
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, final assembly
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Louis Smith's email address??? |
In a message dated 5/1/2004 7:19:44 PM Eastern Standard Time,
rv8er(at)myawai.com writes:
> Does anyone have Louis Smith's email address? The one on his web site
> seems to be invalid.
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Greg Puckett
>
flynfish(at)earthlink.net is the last one I had that worked.
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, NC N910LL
231 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Huft" <rv8tor(at)lazy8.net> |
Thanks Dan
Have ya'll heard of the California Highway Patrol guy who took off with a
motorized tug still attached to the tail wheel of his C-185? Into a low
overcast, had to circle and shoot the ILS, all turned out OK. Aft CG?
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oh oh!!!
Listers,
I will spill my guts for the benefit of all of you, especially nosedragger
pilots. I too flew my plane (a Cessna 150) with the towbar attached. Let
me
tell the whole story:
It was late one evening. I landed and was getting ready to put the plane
away in a large hanger shared by about 6 airplanes. I attached the towbar
and
then realized that one of the planes was still out flying that needed to go
in
before mine, so I laid the towbar (still attached) on the ground and went
into
the hangar to shoot the sh.. oops -- bull -- with some of the guys. About
that time my stepson from out of town showed up and was really excited about
taking a ride. The plane was warm and had just been flown -- no need for a
preflight -- so a quick ride around the area was taken. Uh oh!!
Well, fortunately (in some ways), I had completely forgotten about the
towbar
until after landing and noticing about a half inch curl at the tip of each
prop blade. Thank God I wasn't aware of the towbar being attached, I was
able
to make a perfect landing which otherwise may have been done in a state of
panic.
My wife said she saw sparks as we started the takeoff roll, and come to
think
of it I heard some strange sounds too, but thought it was just some bouncy
noises that we always get on the grass strip.
OK. Heres why it will never happen again. I NEVER, EVER leave the airplane
with the towbar attached. Needless to say it is automatic on my preflight
to
check for the towbar. Nothing makes a believer out of you like having it
happen to you.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (getting really close)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | bruno <rv4(at)videotron.ca> |
Subject: | RV-4 Cowling Hinges Pins |
Hello Listers
Are there any of you on the List flying an RV-4 who
retrofitted their top cowlings from Van's hinge pins to Zsus fasteners or
strait screws? How did it go? Did you get cracks later on or any problems
whatsoever??
Eventough I've removed the top cowling close to fifty
times so far I never had any problems but lately it has been a major pain in
the back to get these pins thru. I have realigned the hinges as best as I
could but I still have troubles getting the top pins thru.
Now I'm starting to look at better options.
Anyone with a web site or pictures I can look at will
be appreciated.
Thank you
Bruno
C-GDBH RV-4
rv4(at)videotron.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | gerald conrad <gwcgwc(at)videotron.ca> |
What is the fuel burn per hour in cruise, at altitudes below 10,000=92?
My partners & I recently purchased a RV-6A. I did my first 500 NM cross country
of 3 hrs + 37 min & was shocked at the fuel remaining (my ass was sore too).
We have a 0-320, 160 HP with a Sensenich fixed pitch metal 80=94 cruise prop.
Magneto ignition.
Gerry Conrad
C-GCUN
RV-6A, 25 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bob U." <rv3(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel Burn 0-320 |
gerald conrad wrote:
>
>What is the fuel burn per hour in cruise, at altitudes below 10,000=92?
>
>
>My partners & I recently purchased a RV-6A. I did my first 500 NM cross country
of 3 hrs + 37 min & was shocked at the fuel remaining (my ass was sore too).
We have a 0-320, 160 HP with a Sensenich fixed pitch metal 80=94 cruise prop.
Magneto ignition.
>
>
>Gerry Conrad
>
>C-GCUN
>
>RV-6A, 25 hrs
>
Gerry,
Your question is far too broad, even if you gave more specifics.
Fuel burn is not magic. It is function on how much horsepower you are
using and how rich/lean the mixture. There is a rule of thumb that can
be stated in many ways. One is ... 12 horsepower per gallon per hour. On
this basis wide open throttle [WOT] at sea level will produce the rated
160 horsepower at 2700 RPM. This would be a MINIMUM of approx 13.3
gallons per hour. If you reduced throttle to 50% power or 80 horsepower,
it would be approximately a MINIMUM of 6.66 GPH. To know what horsepower
you are actually using can be elusive. Check the Lycoming charts for the
horsepower produced at various combinations of altitude, RPM's and
manifold pressures. If you don't have a manifold pressure gauge, you are
out of luck and will have to resort to some assumptions and guessing.
BTW... the above figures assume you are leaning appropriately.
Consumption figures will be higher, if you are running richer or leaner
than necessary. BTW... leaning your Lycoming is a whole 'nuther LONG
chapter and a subject of much controversy.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <zilik(at)excelgeo.com> |
Subject: | electroaiir ei miss |
Listers,
Yesterday Laird Owens, Paul Rosales annd myself returned to
florida fromm the bbahammas to get replacemment mmags for
hhis plane. on tthe return trip mmy EI acted up, miissing
aand spitting on the ei siide, smooothe running on the
mmag. I have checkked out the system aand could fiind
nothinng visually wrong. II plan on replacing the auto
pluts this mmmoorning. Anyone have anyy other ideas?
Gary Zilik Brokke doown inn FT Peirce fl.
This keyboard suckks with multipple characters. sorry
my cell number is 303 538 2342
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: RV-4 Cowling Hinge Pins |
I think you can't find a system better than the hinge pins for the RV-4 cowl.
My pins got easier to put in after a few hours and have worked very well
since.
I ground a long taper on the end of the pins,very slightly curved in the
proper direction for the side it is used on. I ALWAYS rub "Boelube" on them
before inserting. The Boelube is the answer,probably.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: electroaiir ei miss |
Gary I have had this problem sseveral times in the last few years. It
has always been a wire terminus problem or a fouled plug. Check both
ends of the wires. If in doubt call Jeff Rose.
The phone number don't seem to work.
denis
On May 2, 2004, at 7:17 AM, wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> Yesterday Laird Owens, Paul Rosales annd myself returned to
> florida fromm the bbahammas to get replacemment mmags for
> hhis plane. on tthe return trip mmy EI acted up, miissing
> aand spitting on the ei siide, smooothe running on the
> mmag. I have checkked out the system aand could fiind
> nothinng visually wrong. II plan on replacing the auto
> pluts this mmmoorning. Anyone have anyy other ideas?
>
> Gary Zilik Brokke doown inn FT Peirce fl.
>
> This keyboard suckks with multipple characters. sorry
>
> my cell number is 303 538 2342
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: electroaiir ei miss |
Here is Jeff's number from yeller pages:
ELECTROAIR (JEFF ROSE) 423-622-8825 electroair(at)juno.com ELECTRONIC
IGNITION
Denis
On May 2, 2004, at 7:17 AM, wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> Yesterday Laird Owens, Paul Rosales annd myself returned to
> florida fromm the bbahammas to get replacemment mmags for
> hhis plane. on tthe return trip mmy EI acted up, miissing
> aand spitting on the ei siide, smooothe running on the
> mmag. I have checkked out the system aand could fiind
> nothinng visually wrong. II plan on replacing the auto
> pluts this mmmoorning. Anyone have anyy other ideas?
>
> Gary Zilik Brokke doown inn FT Peirce fl.
>
> This keyboard suckks with multipple characters. sorry
>
> my cell number is 303 538 2342
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV-4 Cowling Hinges Pins |
I kept the hinge pins on the side of the cowl, but have replaced the top of
the firewall with the Sky Bolt fasteners (www.skybolt.com). They are very nice
fasteners, they have adjustable depth, sit flush, work excellent, but they
are kind of big and they don't look as nice as they are more pronounced and are
much more visible (I had flush screws there, but they were chipping the paint
and were a pain to unscrew). I can now get my upper cowl off in about 3
minutes, verses 10 or more before.
I sacrificed a small appearance downgrade for ease of removal.
-Mike Kraus
N223RV RV-4 Flying
N213RV RV-10 Empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)rogers.com> |
Subject: | RV-4 Cowling Hinges Pins |
Hi Bruno
Glad to see you are still flying/upgrading the 4. I have my top cowl
attached at the firewall with simple screws. I have had no problems so far,
other than having to replace a platenut occasionally. I would recommend the
plate nuts with the floating nut to allow for some misalignment when trying
to get the cowl back on. The only problem that I can see is the cowl is a
bit wavy, with the low spots being where the screws are. I would think that
some kind of fastener like zsus would work fine as well and be quicker
getting the cowl on and off. I also eliminated the short piece of piano
hinge on either side of the cowl just behind the prop. No cracking or any
signs of stress so far.
If you have some time off this summer, Don't forget the COPA convention is
here in Fredericton.
Joe Hine
RV4 C-FYTQ
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of bruno
Subject: RV-List: RV-4 Cowling Hinges Pins
Hello Listers
Are there any of you on the List flying an RV-4 who
retrofitted their top cowlings from Van's hinge pins to Zsus fasteners or
strait screws? How did it go? Did you get cracks later on or any problems
whatsoever??
Eventough I've removed the top cowling close to fifty
times so far I never had any problems but lately it has been a major pain in
the back to get these pins thru. I have realigned the hinges as best as I
could but I still have troubles getting the top pins thru.
Now I'm starting to look at better options.
Anyone with a web site or pictures I can look at will
be appreciated.
Thank you
Bruno
C-GDBH RV-4
rv4(at)videotron.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Fuel Burn 0-320 |
I have an O-320, 160 hp, typically fly around 6500-8500 ft, 75% power (2450
rpm assuming my tach is correct) and depending on how I lean I get from 7.5-8.5
gph. I have the Van's recommended Sensenich prop for an RV-4, 160 hp (don't
have the model number handy).
-Mike Kraus
N223RV RV-4 Flying
N213RV RV-10 Empennage just about done
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "GMC" <gmcnutt(at)uniserve.com> |
What is the fuel burn per hour in cruise, at altitudes below 10,000=92?
Gerry Conrad
C-GCUN
RV-6A, 25 hrs
Hi Gerry
On my RV-6A with carbureted 160HP 0-320, Sensenich metal 79" pitch.
I flight plan a cruise fuel flow of 8.3 US gal/hr for x-country @ 65% - 70%
power, no fancy equipment so I normally lean to peak power on tachometer, I
plan 11.5 GPH for climb. Flight plan speed is 145 knots.
In local flying & short X-country's I am averaging 7.7 to 8.3 GPH overall
burn.
So don't keep us in suspense, how much fuel did you have left??
George in Langley
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com |
Subject: | whelen strobes capacitors |
Any one have a source for the whelen strobe capacitors. It
seems as though I have a bad one.
TIA
Sal Capra
Lakeland, FL
My Home Page
http://hometown.aol.com/cbrxxdrv/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Jurotich <mjurotich(at)hst.nasa.gov> |
I am upgrading many things on my purchased RV 6A. One of them is cockpit
ventilation using Van's NACA ducts. Please point me to a web site with a
series of how to install or send me some pictures or a word description.
Things like size of hole to cut, just where on the fuselage aft of the
firewall wall, can they be level with the middle of the panel, etc. If
these sound very easy fundamental questions they are. But you folks have
built some very fine machines and I'd like to not make a mistake on my very
first cut the metal job.
Thanks
Matthew M. Jurotich
NASA/Goddard Space Flight Center
JWST ISIM Systems Engineer
m/c : 443
e-mail mailto: mjurotich(at)hst.nasa.gov
phone : 301-286-5919
fax : 301-286-7021
JWST URL: <http://ngst1.gsfc.nasa.gov>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
Subject: | electroaiir ei miss |
Gary,
I get a " ... cannot be completed as dialled ..." for the number given.
Might want to double check to see if a digit is off.
First, I would give Jeff Rose a call. He is VERY helpful.
Three things to check:
1. Plugs
Seems you are using auto plugs. If so, they may have reached the end of
their service life. As you probably know, Jeff has found that the REM37BYs
work better. That doesn't help you at the moment so hopefully a new set will
do the trick. And they are cheap so a quick run to Auto Zone might get you
back smooth.
2. Wires
Any chance a wire has rubbed against something and has arcing going on? We
saw some chaffing on one of our wires and was able to catch it before it was
too late. Jeff says his system has either 65,000 or 85,000 (I **think**)
volts being spewed forth so if there is a way for electron-type things to
"escape" before the plug they will.
Since you are using automotive then to attachment to the plug is probably
OK. If it were the REM37BYs then I would say make **sure** it did not slip
out a bit. Maybe even a little RTV to make sure would have been in order.
3. Pickup
Have you been able to make sure the pickup is not just a little bit loose?
Do you have the directions with you to tell if the timing is right? If need
be, a trip to the airport could be made. But by the time you get this, you
probably will have called Jeff Rose ... which is what I would do first order
of business.
When I was trying to chase don a problem, Jeff was there "with me" every
step of the way (even though it turned out to NOT be his system as the
culprit). He was paitent and helpful ... even on WEEKENDS!
I'd give him a call.
But if there is anything we can do "shoreside" to help, give a call ...
James
803-238-2113
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> zilik(at)excelgeo.com
> Sent: Sunday, May 02, 2004 9:17 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: electroaiir ei miss
>
>
> Listers,
>
> Yesterday Laird Owens, Paul Rosales annd myself returned to
> florida fromm the bbahammas to get replacemment mmags for
> hhis plane. on tthe return trip mmy EI acted up, miissing
> aand spitting on the ei siide, smooothe running on the
> mmag. I have checkked out the system aand could fiind
> nothinng visually wrong. II plan on replacing the auto
> pluts this mmmoorning. Anyone have anyy other ideas?
>
> Gary Zilik Brokke doown inn FT Peirce fl.
>
> This keyboard suckks with multipple characters. sorry
>
> my cell number is 303 538 2342
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Antenna Cables Available |
From: | Jack <jgh2(at)charter.net> |
A number of list members reported that transponder and bent whip com
antennas located under the fuselage worked well, so I started looking
for a suitable cable. Various experts (including Bob N. at
) recommended RG-400 because of it's stranded center
conductor, small bend radius, teflon insulation, and plated copper
shield. However local and on-line sources wanted $1.75/foot and
additional dollars for the connectors and attachment tool. I finally
found a source who had unused 15' RG-400 cables with male BNC
connectors and molded strain reliefs on each end. Unfortunately they
had to be purchased in bulk and I now have more than I need. If you
would be interested buying one or two, pictures are posted at
<http://webpages.charter.net/jghkah/cables/cables.html>. They are
$18/cable (plus $5 dollars for shipping via US mail to a US address and
$1 for each additional cable shipped to the same address).
Jack H.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | j pearlman <rvexch(at)yahoo.com> |
I am thinking about getting a james cowl. Any comments one way or the other?
jay
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Fuel Burn 0-320 |
In a message dated 5/2/2004 9:45:45 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
gmcnutt(at)uniserve.com writes:
On my RV-6A with carbureted 160HP 0-320, Sensenich metal 79" pitch.
I flight plan a cruise fuel flow of 8.3 US gal/hr for x-country @ 65% - 70%
power, no fancy equipment so I normally lean to peak power on tachometer, I
plan 11.5 GPH for climb. Flight plan speed is 145 knots.
In local flying & short X-country's I am averaging 7.7 to 8.3 GPH overall
burn.
So don't keep us in suspense, how much fuel did you have left??
======================================
Was this on Easter? Maybe this was one of those Christ intervention
situations where there was more fish left after the fact than they started with.
;
)
GV (RV-6A N1GV flying 690 hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" <F.vanderHulst(at)ucol.ac.nz> |
http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/bunnys-guide/rv/bunny/fusejig.htm (near
the bottom of the document).
When you buy the vents from Vans you get a paper template for the size
and shape of the hole to cut.
Not sure if this will work when upgrading an existing plane, but a
cunning trick I found out AFTER I'd cut my holes is to install the vents
in line with the cowl hinge line. The hinge pins can then be installed
from the rear (and can't slip out into your prop).
Frank
-----Original Message-----
I am upgrading many things on my purchased RV 6A. One of them is
cockpit
ventilation using Van's NACA ducts. Please point me to a web site with
a
series of how to install or send me some pictures or a word description.
Things like size of hole to cut, just where on the fuselage aft of the
firewall wall, can they be level with the middle of the panel, etc.
Learn real skills for the real world - Apply online
at http://www.ucol.ac.nz or call 0800 GO UCOL
(0800 46 8265) or txt free 3388 for more information
and make a good move to UCOL Universal College of
Learning.
Enrol with a public institute and be certain of your
future
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Wallace Enga <wenga(at)svtv.com> |
Subject: | Antenna Cables Available |
Jack,
I'll take two of the cables.
E-mail your preferred payment info.
Thanks
Wally Enga
>
>A number of list members reported that transponder and bent whip com
>antennas located under the fuselage worked well, so I started looking
>for a suitable cable. Various experts (including Bob N. at
>) recommended RG-400 because of it's stranded center
>conductor, small bend radius, teflon insulation, and plated copper
>shield. However local and on-line sources wanted $1.75/foot and
>additional dollars for the connectors and attachment tool. I finally
>found a source who had unused 15' RG-400 cables with male BNC
>connectors and molded strain reliefs on each end. Unfortunately they
>had to be purchased in bulk and I now have more than I need. If you
>would be interested buying one or two, pictures are posted at
><http://webpages.charter.net/jghkah/cables/cables.html>. They are
>$18/cable (plus $5 dollars for shipping via US mail to a US address and
>$1 for each additional cable shipped to the same address).
>
>Jack H.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <Fred.Stucklen(at)UTCFuelCells.com> |
Subject: | electroaiir ei miss |
Gary,
Sounds like the sensor on the magslot pickup has gone intermittent. Jeff
has changed vendors for this part because of quality issues. You should call
him..
I had a similar problem a number of years ago, and, since replacing the
sensor, it has not re-occurred....
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV
Listers,
Yesterday Laird Owens, Paul Rosales annd myself returned to
florida fromm the bbahammas to get replacemment mmags for
hhis plane. on tthe return trip mmy EI acted up, miissing
aand spitting on the ei siide, smooothe running on the
mmag. I have checkked out the system aand could fiind
nothinng visually wrong. II plan on replacing the auto
pluts this mmmoorning. Anyone have anyy other ideas?
Gary Zilik Brokke doown inn FT Peirce fl.
This keyboard suckks with multipple characters. sorry
my cell number is 303 538 2342
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Parker" <dennis(at)k2workflow.com> |
This is an interesting thread. I have been asking the same questions and
could do with some help from somebody who understands this well. My
understanding is that the GPS vertical guidance will allow the autopilot
to take guidance from a suitable equipped GPS (Garmin 430 or the CNX80)
and feed that to the autopilot. So if that is the case and you have a
certified GPS approach (WAAS - whatever that means) then the IIVSG
should effectively be able to shoot an ILS. Although not in NAV mode as
it does not have the ability to do anything with a localizer or glide
slope.
To confuse this further though, what does it do if you set the CNX80 up
for the localizer and glideslope (i.e. for an ILS approach) using the
NAV function on the CNX80? I would have thought that the ARINC interface
coming from the CNX80 unit to the IIVSG would not be able to
differentiate from data coming from the GPS or the NAV sections of that
box.
So the question from someone who really knows about this is: Does ARINC
differentiate GPS based guidance data from localizer / glideslope data?
Regards
Dennis Parker
RV7
71041
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
(US SSA)
Subject: RE: RV-List: autopilots
Noel,
I was under the impression that the IIVSG couldn't shoot an ILS (only
GPS with v/guidance). My understanding comes from reviewing the product
capability matrix
(http://www.trutrakflightsystems.com/ttfsproducts.html) and from a short
discussion with the TruTrak folks although I may not have asked the
right questions. Isn't it the Nav Modes feature that allows a LOC or
ILS approach? I've been thinking about a DFC 200 (or maybe 250) but
would really like to have vertical GPS guidance ala the IIVSG. My phone
call implied that this would probably be added to the DFC series in the
future. If the IIVSG can really do an ILS approach, what does the "Nav
Modes" on the DFC series feature provide? Since they both use the same
servos I've ordered them for my RV-10 but held off on the actual
autopilot.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Noel & Yoshie
Simmons
Subject: RE: RV-List: autopilots
-->
TruTrak Digiflight IIVSG $4995.00 coupled up to the CNX-80 will do
every thing you need. By itself; wing level, heading mode (internal Mag
sensor), Altitude hold along with climb/descend @ airspeed/Feet. Has
minim airspeed and max airspeed. CNX-80 has the vertical steering, GPS
steering, VOR, LOC, Glide slope and all the other great things I like.
Actually the CNX-80 is my favorite GPS/COM easy to use.
Noel
=
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
=
=
=
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net> |
Subject: | whelen strobes capacitors |
Most times these bad units can be sent in to Whelen and they will fix them
for a nominal fee of $150.00
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: whelen strobes capacitors
Any one have a source for the whelen strobe capacitors. It
seems as though I have a bad one.
TIA
Sal Capra
Lakeland, FL
My Home Page
http://hometown.aol.com/cbrxxdrv/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | FW: Les' Fly In at Rebel's Bluff |
From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
Les Featherston is having his 2nd annual fly-in on June 5th. Details
below.
The best date for all concerned seems to be June 5th. So that's it! I
am advertising it for June 5th. Can you let the Indy group know, and
try to rouse a big interest? Details are 10:00AM, N37 06.1, and W93
52.2, or two miles NNE of Mt Vernon International AP (2MO). UNICOM is
122.9. Come and stay overnight just like last year. We will have the
Boy Scouts providing lunch. Dinner will be about $8 for steak or
Bar-B-Que Chicken with all the trimmings. Overnight camping is
encouraged (for the hearty souls) and Super 8 is the other option. I
have it coming out on Doug Reeve's website, and if Van's cooperates, on
their calander page. Please tell me you are coming, See you soon, Les
417-425-3595
For a few pics of last year's fly-in:
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/Photo%20Gallery.html
More info later, but make yer plans now!!!!
Vince
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel Burn 0-320 |
I have an RV6A with an O-320 Senenich 80" pitch. I always run at 70% power
(2000'~10000') based upon my % of power instrument. I am full rich which is
about 50 degrees rich of peak(JPI). I plan 8 GPH take off to touch down.
True air speed 155~160 kts depending on altitude.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Atlanta Area Builders |
Hello,
I find myself in Atlanta (Marietta)on business tomorrow (5/4) with a
free night. Anybody in the area interested in flying or building and
some dinner?
Pete Howell
-9A wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Coers, John" <John.Coers(at)fkilogistex.com> |
Subject: | POWDER COAT EXTERIOR? |
Hi Guys,
I have a question that may make you think I'm nuts. I am working on my wings
at this point, but I'm thinking ahead to painting and am considering
painting the aircraft as components.
Here's my question(s): I have seen a powder coating system from Eastwood
that utilizes a infrared heat lamp to cure powder coat. The lamp heats small
areas of a piece to 400 degrees for the curing process. They sell a lower
temp curing powder coat for structural aluminum that only requires 320
degrees to cure. Do you think it would be possible to powder coat the finish
of my airplane? Would the heating of the aluminum be a problem? Am I nuts?
Do you think powder coat would work as a exterior finish? Has anyone else
tried this?
I would really like to hear what you guys think of this idea.
Thank you!
John Coers
90780
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: POWDER COAT EXTERIOR? |
Powder coating is heavy and chips easily, at least on my gear legs it sure
did. I dont recall what temp 2024 can take before it looses its original
heat treating but I would sure want to look that up before heating any of
the aircraft aluminium.beyond a few hundred degrees.
>
>Hi Guys,
>
>I have a question that may make you think I'm nuts. I am working on my wings
>at this point, but I'm thinking ahead to painting and am considering
>painting the aircraft as components.
>
>Here's my question(s): I have seen a powder coating system from Eastwood
>that utilizes a infrared heat lamp to cure powder coat. The lamp heats small
>areas of a piece to 400 degrees for the curing process. They sell a lower
>temp curing powder coat for structural aluminum that only requires 320
>degrees to cure. Do you think it would be possible to powder coat the finish
>of my airplane? Would the heating of the aluminum be a problem? Am I nuts?
>Do you think powder coat would work as a exterior finish? Has anyone else
>tried this?
>
>I would really like to hear what you guys think of this idea.
>
>Thank you!
>
>John Coers
>90780
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
Subject: | Re: POWDER COAT EXTERIOR? |
You can't powder coat the fiberglass, so you would have to at least paint
that. Plus, if the powder coat chips, you are in trouble. I think powder
coating is great for the steel parts, but that is where I would leave it.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Soon
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Coers, John" <John.Coers(at)fkilogistex.com>
Subject: RV-List: POWDER COAT EXTERIOR?
>
> Hi Guys,
>
> I have a question that may make you think I'm nuts. I am working on my
wings
> at this point, but I'm thinking ahead to painting and am considering
> painting the aircraft as components.
>
> Here's my question(s): I have seen a powder coating system from Eastwood
> that utilizes a infrared heat lamp to cure powder coat. The lamp heats
small
> areas of a piece to 400 degrees for the curing process. They sell a lower
> temp curing powder coat for structural aluminum that only requires 320
> degrees to cure. Do you think it would be possible to powder coat the
finish
> of my airplane? Would the heating of the aluminum be a problem? Am I nuts?
> Do you think powder coat would work as a exterior finish? Has anyone else
> tried this?
>
> I would really like to hear what you guys think of this idea.
>
> Thank you!
>
> John Coers
> 90780
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 19 Msgs - 05/02/04 |
FUEL BURN O-320
My brother & I have flown a 1975 172 since NEW mostly on mostly on car
gas the last 20 years. At low cruise power, 20" Hg & 2000 RPM, lean mixture,
fuel burn is at or below 6 gal/ tach-hr. That means burn per clock hour is
less, about 5.6/hr. I can be done! The 172 is slow enough you're not going to
get anywhere in a hurry, so you might as well relax and enjoy it. This is the
low-compression 0-320 80 octane engine.
Paul S. Petersen, Partner with son Eric
RV6A 90% & 50% to go
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Carson City Fly-in |
It was a success for the 1st Silver State RV Fly-in. There were 51
registered fly-in aircraft with 31 of them being RV's. Yes, I am counting
the Factory RV-10 flown in by Ken Scott and the Exxon Flying Tiger flown in
by Bruce Bohannon himself. Over 300 general public showed and everyone
enjoyed the weather and food. We look forward to making this an annual event
if the interest is there. Don't think it will be a problem. Bruce Gray RV8
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov> |
Subject: | Anodize? (was: POWDER COAT EXTERIOR?) |
>
>You can't powder coat the fiberglass, so you would have to at least paint
>that. Plus, if the powder coat chips, you are in trouble. I think powder
>coating is great for the steel parts, but that is where I would leave it.
I agree. Powder coat is great for steel parts. Aluminum has many
superior options. Zinc chromate primer and then paint are the standard.
Anodizing could work. Anodizing is astoundingly simple and
inexpensive to do. It is also durable and lightweight.
http://www.focuser.com/atm/anodize/anodize99.html
My pal bought the above kit (with instructions) and got
outstanding results on the modest-sized parts he anodized. I can't see why
it would not work just as well on large parts.
I have no idea whether anodizing an airplane skin would be
effective or how long the surface would hold up to the weather. High
quality dye would be a must for parts exposed to UV. It would definitely be
unique look for an airplane, however.
I should note that you can't easily anodize 7075 aluminum or the
2000 series aluminum. It has too much copper. You can easily anodize 6061
and 5000 series as well as pure aluminum.
I'll try a chunk of Alclad and see how it comes out.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Anodize? (was: POWDER COAT EXTERIOR?) |
FYI. Anodized parts do fade.
>
>>
>>You can't powder coat the fiberglass, so you would have to at least paint
>>that. Plus, if the powder coat chips, you are in trouble. I think powder
>>coating is great for the steel parts, but that is where I would leave it.
>
> I agree. Powder coat is great for steel parts. Aluminum has many
>superior options. Zinc chromate primer and then paint are the standard.
>
> Anodizing could work. Anodizing is astoundingly simple and
>inexpensive to do. It is also durable and lightweight.
>
> http://www.focuser.com/atm/anodize/anodize99.html
>
> My pal bought the above kit (with instructions) and got
>outstanding results on the modest-sized parts he anodized. I can't see why
>it would not work just as well on large parts.
>
> I have no idea whether anodizing an airplane skin would be
>effective or how long the surface would hold up to the weather. High
>quality dye would be a must for parts exposed to UV. It would definitely be
>unique look for an airplane, however.
>
> I should note that you can't easily anodize 7075 aluminum or the
>2000 series aluminum. It has too much copper. You can easily anodize 6061
>and 5000 series as well as pure aluminum.
>
> I'll try a chunk of Alclad and see how it comes out.
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
>Listers,
>
>Yesterday Laird Owens, Paul Rosales annd myself returned to
>florida fromm the bbahammas to get replacemment mmags for
>hhis plane. on tthe return trip mmy EI acted up, miissing
>aand spitting on the ei siide, smooothe running on the
>mmag. I have checkked out the system aand could fiind
>nothinng visually wrong. II plan on replacing the auto
>pluts this mmmoorning. Anyone have anyy other ideas?
>
>Gary Zilik Brokke doown inn FT Peirce fl.
>
>This keyboard suckks with multipple characters. sorry
>
>my cell number is 303 538 2342
Tried this cell number but could not connect.
Anyone else have an update?
In the meantime, as an EI owner, I would check the following:
1. toggle switch/keyswitch integrity
2. cable from hall sensor/mag module to black box connections
3. cable chafing
4. coils for cracks or signs of arcing
5. spark plug leads for cracks or burn through
6. manifold pressure line
I list the switch as number 1 because I've had a dirty toggle switch go
intermittent on my remaining mag.
Gary, Laird, Rosie and the other Triangle Travellers, take care and get home
safely!
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
wishin' I wuz on da beach too!
Mothers Day is May 9. Make it special with great ideas from the Mothers
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RGray67968(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Atlanta Area Builders |
Many of the Atlanta (Team RV) folks are smack dab in the middle of their
Turks trip right now.
You might try their Yahoo site though:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AtlRVers/
Rick Gray RV6 in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm
Hello,
I find myself in Atlanta (Marietta)on business tomorrow (5/4) with a
free night. Anybody in the area interested in flying or building and
some dinner?
Pete Howell
-9A wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | HalBenjamin(at)aol.com |
Subject: | RV-4 Jig - Long Island New York |
Listers,
I'll be finished with my wooden fuselage jig in a couple of weeks. It's free
to anybody who wants to come and get it!
Hal Benjamin
RV-4, Almost sea worthy
Long Island, NY
(631)385-6016
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "sportpilot" <sportpilot(at)moneypit.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV6/A Gross Weight.... |
Anyone have or know were to find RV9a or any RV flight sim 2004 files ?
thanks in advance..
Danny..
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Rear view of vacuum gyros...a request. |
This might sound odd, but if there is anyone out there with R.C. Allen
vacuum gyros (DG and AI) on their bench, I would very much appreciate a
picture of the units from the rear.
I want to know the locations of the vac hoses connections.
(Since you can't simply post files to the RV-list, either post the pix with
a direct reply to me, or on the matronics picture server).
Thanks,
Amit.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | RV6/A Gross Weight.... |
From: | "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" <F.vanderHulst(at)ucol.ac.nz> |
There must surely be a downside to upping your Max Gross Weight though?
Don't you have to justify to the FAA *why* your RV-6A is apparently safe
to fly at 1800lbs, whilst Van's one isn't?
-----Original Message-----
I set my RV-6A Gross Weight at 1800 lbs. The FAA says you - the
manufacture gets to make that decision.
Learn real skills for the real world - Apply online
at http://www.ucol.ac.nz or call 0800 GO UCOL
(0800 46 8265) or txt free 3388 for more information
and make a good move to UCOL Universal College of
Learning.
Enrol with a public institute and be certain of your
future
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | RV6/A Gross Weight.... Now Vans for Flight Simulator |
I sent this a few months ago, it a great download for FS. No 9 though, just
a 7. (not just a 7) :-)
First of all, I am in no way associated with Flight Factory Simulations! I'm
just a fan of MS Flight Simulator. The link below is to a company who has
just released an RV-7 for MS Flight Simulator. The cost for the aircraft is
$19.00 bucks. The RV-7 comes equipped with a tip-up canopy, 200hp engine and
it's a tail dragger. The flight dynamics are fairly realistic and it has a
downloadable POH that is included in the price.
If you like simulations for practicing approaches, maneuvers or whatever
then why not have an RV-7? I spent some time with it and it's was a kick to
show my family what my airplane will look like........some day.
http://www.flightfactory-simulations.com/
Karie Daniel
Sammamish, WA
RV-7A QB in progress
----- Original Message -----
From: "sportpilot" <sportpilot(at)moneypit.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6/A Gross Weight....
>
> Anyone have or know were to find RV9a or any RV flight sim 2004 files
?
>
> thanks in advance..
>
> Danny..
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
Subject: | 2 1/4" RPM + MP Display **or** Engine Power Monitor (Where to |
find???)
Does anyone out there in RV-Land know where I can find a combined Tach and
Manifold Pressure display that fits into a 2 1/4" hole????
I want to replace the two gauges from Van's with **ONE** that fits into the
same size hole.
The "Engine Power Monitor" from "Technology Kitchen" used to do this and
seemingly did a fine job. BUT (!!) the product was sold to Alcor (***I
think***) some time ago and they don't seem to have rolled out anything
based on it.
I have sent email to both places ... just in case, but do not expect much of
a positive reply thus the appeal to the list.
Sooooo.... if you have an old EPM just lying around collecting dust because
you decided to go with the VM1000 or something ... let me take it off your
hands! :-) Or if you know of such a gauge from someone else, please let me
know.
Thanks,
James
... trying to fit 10lbs of stuff into a 9lb RV6 panel
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RSamuelson(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Lasar vs. Lightspeed |
Can anyone compare/contrast the Lasar Ignition vs the Lightspeed Plasma II on
an O- 360.
Thanks for the info.
Roy Samuelson
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | rv7a <rv7a(at)prosody.org> |
Subject: | Re: Anodize? (was: POWDER COAT EXTERIOR?) |
I would not anodize any aircraft skins.
Things like canopy hardware ok.
Anodizing creates a hard thin coating on the aluminum.
The coating has a different hardness than the base metal.
This may well lead to stress cracking.
Boeing skins are not anodized. They are alodined.
I worked at Boeing as a Chemical Process Engineer.
Joe
N633Z @ AWO
19.8 hours!
On Mon, 3 May 2004, Scott Bilinski wrote:
>
> FYI. Anodized parts do fade.
>
> >
> >
> > I have no idea whether anodizing an airplane skin would be
> >effective or how long the surface would hold up to the weather. High
> >quality dye would be a must for parts exposed to UV. It would definitely be
> >unique look for an airplane, however.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Neil Henderson" <neil.mo51(at)btopenworld.com> |
Subject: | Undercarriage Stiffeners |
Listers
I recall from postings some time ago that the general consensus was that the wooden
undercarriage stiffeners called for on the Van's plans were unnecessary.
A question to those with nose dragger RV's in the air. Did you fit and if not
how is the ground handling. Your input would be very welcome.
Neil Henderson RV9-A Aylesbury UK
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV6/A Gross Weight.... |
> There must surely be a downside to upping your Max Gross Weight though?
>
> Don't you have to justify to the FAA *why* your RV-6A is apparently safe
> to fly at 1800lbs, whilst Van's one isn't?
Frank has a point there; but, I did make mine 1800 pounds. I figured that I
would not be subjecting mine to 6 gs, any time soon. I figured I'd be
flying mine in the normal class because I don't have the nerve for, or
desire to learn, aerobatics. I just wanted to build an airplane. One that
goes fast was a nice attribute, too. With that, I wanted to make sure the
wings could carry the load of a 200 pound increase in gross. I was pretty
sure they could. I did the weight and balance calculations already
mentioned and found that I could carry a 300 pound passenger with 5 gallons
of fuel if I didn't have a lot of baggage and stayed within CG limits.
Since I had no intentions of carrying a 300 pound passenger, it looked good
to me. If I went with Van's calculations of 1600 pounds, I'd be able to
fill my tanks and have room for a 115 pound passenger, roughly. That's not
much, is it?
I've flown mine at over 1700 pounds several times because it's so easy to
get that much of a load in a RV. I'm near standard pilot weight; but, I've
had passengers who weigh well over 200 pounds. The heaviest was at about
260 pounds. At full fuel, one can go well over 1700 pounds, easily. My
take off weight with that passenger was at about 1750 pounds. My 150 hp
powered -6A did just fine with that. I couldn't tell a whole lot of
difference in performance, either. The climb out wasn't quite as good as
normal; but, it was just fine.
Now, here's the big difference I think I've finally figured out. It's not
the wings. It's the landing gear. If you notice, the newer kits have a
higher gross weight. Notice the wing attachments? I'd trust the 80 bolt
wing attachments on my -6A more than those 20 bolts that hold on the new
wings. The gross weights on the new kits are higher, though. I hate the
new taller main gears. I wanted to put -6A main gear legs on my new -7A.
Nothing doing. I'd was told I'd have to drill the mounts, myself. After a
lot of questions, they finally told me at Van's that the gear legs on
the -7A are larger in diameter than the ones on the -6A. With that, I
finally understood the increase in gross weights. What the wings can stand
is one thing. What the gear legs can handle is another.
If you increase your gross weight, understand that the gear legs aren't as
strong as those on the -7A. With that, treat them accordingly. They can
withstand quite a bit of punishment; but, they will bend. My -6A is still
flying with the legs that came with the kit. Many have already replaced the
nose gears. Some have had to replace the mains. I make sure that my take
off weight is going to be burned off on a trip so that my landing weight is
at least close to Van's gross weight calculations. If I can't do that, I
make darned sure I make a good landing so that I don't beat up the gear
legs.
Now, understand that I can only speculate and go on experinces of others,
here. I'm no engineer. I'm basing this on my experience and the
experiences of others before me. I knew it would be impossible to not get
over Van's gross weight if I carried anyone, other than children, on board
with me at full tanks. I set mine high enough that I'd never go over it and
have to deal with a balking insurance company. I do not try to test the
limits. I try to stay at no more than 1750 pounds at take off. I try to
land with much less than that. That's worked for me, so far.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
RV-7A #70317 (New building nearing completion. Waiting on wings)
EAA Tech Counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Undercarriage Stiffeners |
> I recall from postings some time ago that the general consensus was that
the
> wooden undercarriage stiffeners called for on the Van's plans were
unnecessary.
> A question to those with nose dragger RV's in the air. Did you fit and if
not how is > the ground handling. Your input would be very welcome.
I do not have gear stiffeners on any of my -6A's gear legs. I did balance
the main gear wheel pants, though. So far, I'm satisfied with the results.
I think I may get a little shimmy at a taxi speed just above a walk; but, I
change the speed to stop it. It could also be prop pulses I'm feeling. Not
sure on that. I try to keep the mains at 30 pounds pressure and the nose
wheel at 22 pounds.
The reason I did not go with the stiffeners is that I had a problem getting
past the idea that the stiffeners could be adding more stress at the points
where the gear legs enter the mounts. The legs are supposed to flex so that
the loads are spread out. If we stiffen them, that has to concentrate those
loads at critical points. Just look at the spar design on your wings. The
spars are stepped down so that the loads are spread out. If not, the wings
could shear off. I'm not an engineer; but, logic seemed to point out to me
that the landing gear could do the same thing. I decided to go without the
stiffeners to see what would happen. So far, I'm happy with mine. When I
helped Jim Render build his -9A, we didn't use stiffeners on that, either.
I never saw any shimmy action during his testing.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
RV-7A #70317 (Awaiting wings)
EAA Tech Counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bob U." <rv3(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: Tailwheel Horn |
Stein Bruch wrote:
>I fly off a grass strip.....
>
>200+hrs and 400+landings (still using same "cheap" tires, almost look new)!
>
Thank the grass and alignment, not the tire manufacturer for such
longevity. However, there is more to good life than mere longevity. My
STURDY Condor tires have been such an increased pleasure for ground
handling, I wouldn't use weak sidewall cheapies, now, if I could get
them free.
YMMV.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: Undercarriage Stiffeners |
Hi Neil,
While they may now longer be considered necessary or recommended, I had
to make a panic stop one time from an aborted take off. I am convinced that
if I had not had the wooden stiffeners on the main gear legs the extreme
braking applied would have caused them to tires to hop and skip as the steel
gear first bent backward under the load and the sprang forward. As it was,
I left 300 ft of black tire marks from touch down to the end of the runway
(ended up 12 ft off in the grass with no damage) which showed no sign of
skipping tires or tire lock up. Just 300 ft of soft rubber gripping the
tarmac and bring me to a stop. I also have never had any shimmy from the
main gear. FWIW
Ed
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Neil Henderson" <neil.mo51(at)btopenworld.com>
Subject: RV-List: Undercarriage Stiffeners
>
> Listers
>
> I recall from postings some time ago that the general consensus was that
the wooden undercarriage stiffeners called for on the Van's plans were
unnecessary. A question to those with nose dragger RV's in the air. Did you
fit and if not how is the ground handling. Your input would be very welcome.
>
> Neil Henderson RV9-A Aylesbury UK
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Tailwheel Horn |
We have the same problem on our RV8 after about 170 hours TT. As u stated, it
is no fun with crosswind and having to use brakes to taxi. Have yet to take
it apart to see the what has happened.
Regards,
Doug Preston
RV8
N127EK
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: Undercarriage Stiffeners |
Dear Neil,
I did not fit stiffeners to my RV-6A. Originally the nose strut had a
stiffener, but when replaced (a retrofit), Van no longer recommended
a stiffener. I have the older wheel pants. The other half dozen 6As
on the field also have no stiffeners, the newer "dolly partin" pants
and no shimmy whatsoever.
No handling problems. My gear does occasionally tend to shake at 23 to
30 MPH taxi speed, but only when tires (tyres) are out of balance.
this would probably be alleviated with stiffeners. Since I normally
taxi at 20 mph or less, this is not a problem for me. On take off the
plane accelerates so fast it never occurs. On landing It is a brief
shudder which I use for a cue that I have slowed enough to make the
turn off.
My very personal opinion is that the stiffeners are not worth
installing, although they would probably help dampen vibrations and
shimmy when/if they do occur.
Shimmy very seldom occurs to a large degree (for me) and it is always
associated with worn tires, or out of balance wheels.
I was also concerned that the wood stiffeners cover an area which is
best inspected annually, and could be a source of corrosion, if they
are not perfectly sealed.
Last but not least. You can add them later, but trying to chisel loose
those already installed looks like a daunting task to me.
Denis in Denver (RV-6A with 2300 landings so far )
On May 4, 2004, at 3:13 AM, Neil Henderson wrote:
>
>
> Listers
>
> I recall from postings some time ago that the general consensus was
> that the wooden undercarriage stiffeners called for on the Van's plans
> were unnecessary. A question to those with nose dragger RV's in the
> air. Did you fit and if not how is the ground handling. Your input
> would be very welcome.
>
> Neil Henderson RV9-A Aylesbury UK
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Lasar vs. Lightspeed |
>
>Can anyone compare/contrast the Lasar Ignition vs the Lightspeed Plasma II
>on
>an O- 360.
>
>Thanks for the info.
>
>Roy Samuelson
Might I suggest searching the archives as this topic has been discussed ad
infinitum. You may find your questions have already been answered.
Have fun.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
O-360/Lightspeed and think it's swell.
RV10 '51
Check out the coupons and bargains on MSN Offers! http://youroffers.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | RV6/A Gross Weight.... |
Just imagine, you survive the crash into a house, but one person on the
ground got seriously injured, this has led to a court case and the lawyer
asks you "so Mr. Smith your got you aeronautical engineering degree where?"
I dont care what the FAA says about setting your own gross weight. In my
opinion the designer sets the weight limits.
>
>
>There must surely be a downside to upping your Max Gross Weight though?
>
>Don't you have to justify to the FAA *why* your RV-6A is apparently safe
>to fly at 1800lbs, whilst Van's one isn't?
>
>-----Original Message-----
> I set my RV-6A Gross Weight at 1800 lbs. The FAA says you - the
>manufacture gets to make that decision.
>Learn real skills for the real world - Apply online
>at http://www.ucol.ac.nz or call 0800 GO UCOL
>(0800 46 8265) or txt free 3388 for more information
>and make a good move to UCOL Universal College of
>Learning.
>
>Enrol with a public institute and be certain of your
>future
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Wallace Enga <wenga(at)svtv.com> |
Subject: | RV6/A Gross Weight.... |
Jim,
Bingo, you figured it out.
The landing weight differential becomes very apparent in heavy air carrier
aircraft.
A 747-400 has a structural takeoff weight of 870,00 lbs, but the
structural max landing weight is only 630,00 lbs.
That's a huge difference of 240,000 lbs, which is also why it has a fuel
dump system,
as it would take close to 10 hours to burn that much fuel off in an
emergency situation.
Wally Enga
RV7
>
>
>Now, here's the big difference I think I've finally figured out. It's not
>the wings. It's the landing gear. If you notice, the newer kits have a
>higher gross weight. Notice the wing attachments? I'd trust the 80 bolt
>wing attachments on my -6A more than those 20 bolts that hold on the new
>wings. The gross weights on the new kits are higher, though. I hate the
>new taller main gears. I wanted to put -6A main gear legs on my new -7A.
>Nothing doing. I'd was told I'd have to drill the mounts, myself. After a
>lot of questions, they finally told me at Van's that the gear legs on
>the -7A are larger in diameter than the ones on the -6A. With that, I
>finally understood the increase in gross weights. What the wings can stand
>is one thing. What the gear legs can handle is another.
>
>If you increase your gross weight, understand that the gear legs aren't as
>strong as those on the -7A. With that, treat them accordingly. They can
>withstand quite a bit of punishment; but, they will bend. My -6A is still
>flying with the legs that came with the kit. Many have already replaced the
>nose gears. Some have had to replace the mains. I make sure that my take
>off weight is going to be burned off on a trip so that my landing weight is
>at least close to Van's gross weight calculations. If I can't do that, I
>make darned sure I make a good landing so that I don't beat up the gear
>legs.
>
>Now, understand that I can only speculate and go on experinces of others,
>here. I'm no engineer. I'm basing this on my experience and the
>experiences of others before me. I knew it would be impossible to not get
>over Van's gross weight if I carried anyone, other than children, on board
>with me at full tanks. I set mine high enough that I'd never go over it and
>have to deal with a balking insurance company. I do not try to test the
>limits. I try to stay at no more than 1750 pounds at take off. I try to
>land with much less than that. That's worked for me, so far.
>
>Jim Sears in KY
>RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
>RV-7A #70317 (New building nearing completion. Waiting on wings)
>EAA Tech Counselor
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
Matthew,
On my prepunched RV-7A skins the NACA vent openings are positioned starting
at 5 1/8 inches behind the FWD edge of the skin and end at 10 1/2 inches. The
centerline is 3 inches down from the top skin edge (measured at the front edge
of the duct opening). The centerline is parallel to the canopy skirts.
Frank did a neat trick with the hinge pins. I used some pieces of motorcycle
clutch/brake cable housing and brought the pins into the cockpit. They end
in clamps to the vertical bulkheads about 9 inches FWD of the instrument panel.
The ends of the pins were bent to spring-fit into a hole in the same
verticals leaving no sharp ends exposed. I protected the bulkheads from gouging
with
some small stainless steel pieces. The firewall penetration has to be
clamped or ProSealed, too. Came out very nice but was quite a bit of work.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (almost done)
In a message dated 5/2/04 6:29:39 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
mjurotich(at)hst.nasa.gov writes:
>
>
> I am upgrading many things on my purchased RV 6A. One of them is cockpit
> ventilation using Van's NACA ducts. Please point me to a web site with a
> series of how to install or send me some pictures or a word description.
>
> Things like size of hole to cut, just where on the fuselage aft of the
> firewall wall, can they be level with the middle of the panel, etc. If
> these sound very easy fundamental questions they are. But you folks have
> built some very fine machines and I'd like to not make a mistake on my very
> first cut the metal job.
>
> Thanks
>
> Matthew M. Jurotich
>
> NASA/Goddard Space Flight Center
> JWST ISIM Systems Engineer
>
F.vanderHulst(at)ucol.ac.nz>
http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/bunnys-guide/rv/bunny/fusejig.htm (near
the bottom of the document).
When you buy the vents from Vans you get a paper template for the size
and shape of the hole to cut.
Not sure if this will work when upgrading an existing plane, but a
cunning trick I found out AFTER I'd cut my holes is to install the vents
in line with the cowl hinge line. The hinge pins can then be installed
from the rear (and can't slip out into your prop).
Frank
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Tailwheel Horn |
From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)warpdriveonline.com> |
on 5/4/04 6:39 AM, DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com at DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> We have the same problem on our RV8 after about 170 hours TT. As u stated, it
> is no fun with crosswind and having to use brakes to taxi. Have yet to take
> it apart to see the what has happened.
> Regards,
> Doug Preston
> RV8
> N127EK
>
It is very likely not that the steering horn is wallowed out.
I recently lost tailwheel steering on my 6 and all it was was a bit of grit
jamming the pawl, preventing it from extending into the steering notch. It
was jammed so hard that I had to use a punch to get it to move at all. A
cleaning and regreasing cured it completely.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://n5lp.net
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | nose gear shimmy |
Anyone have a solution for nose gear shimmy? Its on an 8a.
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Undercarriage Stiffeners |
>While they may now longer be considered necessary or recommended, I had
> to make a panic stop one time from an aborted take off. I am convinced
that
> if I had not had the wooden stiffeners on the main gear legs the extreme
> braking applied would have caused them to tires to hop and skip as the
steel
> gear first bent backward under the load and the sprang forward. As it
was,
> I left 300 ft of black tire marks from touch down to the end of the runway
> (ended up 12 ft off in the grass with no damage) which showed no sign of
> skipping tires or tire lock up. Just 300 ft of soft rubber gripping the
> tarmac and bring me to a stop. I also have never had any shimmy from the
> main gear. FWIW
>
> Ed
It sounds like the stiffeners helped to save Ed's day; but, I just wonder
how much damage was done at the points where the gear legs enter the mounts.
Granted, I'm sure Ed wasn't too worried about that at the time. :-) Still,
it had to put a lot of stress on those points.
Alas, I must admit that I did not build my airplane to withstand crashes,
etc.. I built it hoping I'd never crash it. With that, I've built it with
the day to day operation in mind with much hoping that I'll never need to
test out the Van's design. If that happens, I'm hoping the insurance
company will work with me to replace the bent gear and any other damage that
may be caused by the bent gear. From what I've seen from some bent ones, I
can manage the repairs. I'll not be using the stiffeners on the -7A,
either.
Jim Sears in KY
EAA Tech Counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | nose gear shimmy |
Hi Scott,
What is the tire pressure on your nose wheel? We lowered ours and
significantly reduced the shimmy. We also try and keep the nose wheel off
the runway as long as possible (on landing). With a little weight (case of
oil) in the rear baggage comp - I can hold the nose wheel off until about 25
kts. We have the 200hp IO-360 with C/S prop.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (260 hrs)
>From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: nose gear shimmy
>Date: Tue, 04 May 2004 07:09:09 -0700
>
><bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
>Anyone have a solution for nose gear shimmy? Its on an 8a.
>
>
>Scott Bilinski
>Eng dept 305
>Phone (858) 657-2536
>Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu> |
Subject: | Re: RV6/A Gross Weight.... |
Dave Bristol wrote:
> In my opinion it depends a lot on the CG of YOUR airplane. On my -6, if
> I had an O-320 and a wood prop, I wouldn't be able to load it above
I'll be the first to admit I don't know a lot on this
topic. I understand that CG and gross weight are coupled in
some sense, but isn't the gross weight really defined by
what the landing gear and wings will withstand for a max
load? I could add 10,000 pounds of lead weight right on
the center CG, and I'm pretty sure the plane would
not fly, but it could be well within CG limits.
-Dj
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
Subject: | Re: 2 1/4" RPM + MP Display **or** Engine Power Monitor (Where |
to find???)
I have the EPM power monitor and just love it. It is the most instrument for
the money anywhere. I bought it from the guy who came up with the idea. As
stated, they sold it to Alcor but I have no idea why they have set on it and
won't sell it. It would be a winner.
John Furey
RV6A O-320
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bluecavu(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Anodize? (was: POWDER COAT EXTERIOR?) |
Some aircraft produced in eastern-block countries have had *all* their parts
anodized... and I heard many of these airframes have been given a definite
lifespan (usually pretty low -like 5000 hours) before they must be
retired/destroyed according to their manufacturers.
I woundn't do it. Anodizing lowers the fatigue life of aluminum -sometimes in
excess of 50% -in some cases this is not a problem -like when the fatigue
life of a part before anodizing is say 100,000 hours... but it could be a problem
with things like skins and thinner parts that flex/vibrate a lot.
Nor would I powder coat... for all the reasons mentioned by other listers.
Nor would I paint in sections... a customer we worked with insisted in doing
this on a Cessna 180 he had us helping him with. The problem is that most of
the time there are subtle differences in the shades of paint betweent the
batches/parts. He ended up with a Cessna 180 with about 50 different shades of
the
same two colors of pearlescent white and burgandy throughout the airframe. The
access panels were a different shade than the surrounding skin... the cowl
different than the fuselage it met... etc. etc. All technically the same paint
out of the same can. Expensive paint and beautifully applied (no runs, sags,
orangepeel etc) -But boy did it look like crap!
Not to be arrogant or anything -cause I'm always trying 'new' ideas myself
-but most of the processes and techniques in place for this sort of stuff have
been proven to be best -and well thought out by people who know a lot more than
we do. If anodizing were the way to go, Cessna would be doing it by now.
Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | nose gear shimmy |
Tire pressure.....good question. I need to check that. Currently 100% of
the tread is making contact with the ground. That makes it about 20 PSI I
think. I may also try adding more of those disc springs and see what happens.
>
>Hi Scott,
>
>What is the tire pressure on your nose wheel? We lowered ours and
>significantly reduced the shimmy. We also try and keep the nose wheel off
>the runway as long as possible (on landing). With a little weight (case of
>oil) in the rear baggage comp - I can hold the nose wheel off until about 25
>kts. We have the 200hp IO-360 with C/S prop.
>
>Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
>RV-8A (260 hrs)
>
>
>>From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: RV-List: nose gear shimmy
>>Date: Tue, 04 May 2004 07:09:09 -0700
>>
>><bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>>
>>Anyone have a solution for nose gear shimmy? Its on an 8a.
>>
>>
>>Scott Bilinski
>>Eng dept 305
>>Phone (858) 657-2536
>>Pager (858) 502-5190
>>
>>
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | anodizing instrument panel? |
I'm curious what others opinion would be about anodizing an instrument panel
grey or black. It might stand up to all the poking and touching that
occurs when you throw switches, set altimeter, etc.
Don
"All of us need to be reminded that the federal government did not create
the states; the states created the federal government!"---Ronald Reagan
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | WHigg1170(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Rear view of vacuum gyros...a request. |
Hi Amit If you go to http://www.kellymfg.com/gyros.htm They have the drawing
with dimensions on them. Accept maybe the AI.
Bill Higgins
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
Subject: | Re: Tailwheel Horn |
> We have the same problem on our RV8 after about 170 hours TT. As u stated,
it
> is no fun with crosswind and having to use brakes to taxi. Have yet to
take
> it apart to see the what has happened.
> Regards,
> Doug Preston
> RV8
Gents, been there and done that. The problem is that the plunger mushrooms
out after a certain amount of time and then hangs up in the groove in the
shaft one day with no notice. The solution is to take it a part and grind or
file the top and bottom to get it flat again so that it will slide into the
slot freely. Keep it oiled (not greased), repeat every annual.
Randy Lervold
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: nose gear shimmy |
Scott Bilinski wrote:
>
>Tire pressure.....good question. I need to check that. Currently 100% of
>the tread is making contact with the ground. That makes it about 20 PSI I
>think. I may also try adding more of those disc springs and see what happens.
>
I think that's going to be a little low. I had a wizened (read old) A&P
tell me to inflate until the outside rib of the tire just lifts off the
pavement. That eliminated trying to get a tire gauge under the wheel
pants to measure. I've been getting even tire wear since I started
doing it this way ..... for about 20 years now. Doesn't seem to matter
how much the plane weighs or the tire size.
Linn
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ron Walker" <ron(at)walker.net> |
Subject: | Re: anodizing instrument panel? |
I had mine powdercoated black by a local shop ... $60. Looks great, gonna
last a while !
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: anodizing instrument panel?
>
> I'm curious what others opinion would be about anodizing an instrument
panel
> grey or black. It might stand up to all the poking and touching that
> occurs when you throw switches, set altimeter, etc.
>
> Don
>
>
> "All of us need to be reminded that the federal government did not create
> the states; the states created the federal government!"---Ronald Reagan
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | nose gear shimmy |
>
> Scott Bilinski wrote:
>
> >--> <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
> >
> >Tire pressure.....good question. I need to check that.
> Currently 100%
> >of the tread is making contact with the ground. That makes
> it about 20
> >PSI I think. I may also try adding more of those disc
> springs and see
> >what happens.
> >
> I think that's going to be a little low. I had a wizened
> (read old) A&P
> tell me to inflate until the outside rib of the tire just
> lifts off the
> pavement. That eliminated trying to get a tire gauge under the wheel
> pants to measure. I've been getting even tire wear since I started
> doing it this way ..... for about 20 years now. Doesn't seem
> to matter
> how much the plane weighs or the tire size.
> Linn
Did that "wizened", old A&P ever fly an RV trike? I'd lower the
pressure until the shimmy problem goes away, seems like mine is around
20 to 25 psi (which is where the whole tread makes contact).
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 463 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Troubles contacting S-TEC |
From: | <John.Morrissey(at)csiro.au> |
Hi All,
About a month ago I returned a pitch computer to S-TEC for repair
(hopefully under warranty). Since then I have been unable to contact
them on any of the following email addresses
support@s-tec.com
info@s-tec.com
Does anyone out there know of any other email addresses I should try?
Has anyone else had any issues with getting things fixed by S-TEC?
Cheers
John Morrissey
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Troubles contacting S-TEC |
try mavstec.aero
----- Original Message -----
From: <John.Morrissey(at)csiro.au>
Subject: RV-List: Troubles contacting S-TEC
>
> Hi All,
>
>
> About a month ago I returned a pitch computer to S-TEC for repair
> (hopefully under warranty). Since then I have been unable to contact
> them on any of the following email addresses
>
>
> support@s-tec.com
>
> info@s-tec.com
>
>
> Does anyone out there know of any other email addresses I should try?
> Has anyone else had any issues with getting things fixed by S-TEC?
>
>
> Cheers
>
>
> John Morrissey
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: nose gear shimmy |
Alex Peterson wrote:
>
>Did that "wizened", old A&P ever fly an RV trike? I'd lower the
>pressure until the shimmy problem goes away, seems like mine is around
>20 to 25 psi (which is where the whole tread makes contact).
>
>Alex Peterson
>Maple Grove, MN
>RV6-A N66AP 463 hours
>
>
I can honestly say that he hasn't. And I haven't either! However, I do
have many hours in a Grumman, which also has a castering nosewheel. The
answer to the shimmy problem on them is to increase the drag on the
nosewheel fork. The Grummans have belleville (also known as cup)
washers and the nut holding the fork onto the gear leg is tightened to
increase the drag on the fork. Whether or not this will be any help to
an RV owner, I can't say. I can say that reducing the tire pressure
won't stop the shimmy in a Grumman. When I get my 10 built, I'll be
much more informed!!!
Linn
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: >Re:nose gear shimmy |
When I test flew my neighbors RV-6A it had the same sensation. After he
started flying it ,I could see that the movement was fore and aft - NOT a side
to
side shimmy. The solution to this was to hold the nose off ,as another said.
A permanent fix would be a stiffener on the nose gear leg.
Check that out before you go to other things?
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jason Sneed <n242ds(at)cox.net> |
Does anyone know if the goodyear flight custom tires will fit in vans
one piece narrow wheel pants?
Thanks a lot,
Jason Sneed
Commercial Lending Officer
First National Bank and Trust
www.highland-parks.com/n242ds
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
RV-List
Subject: | Internal Regulated Alternator converted to External? |
Has anyone had there Van's internal regulated 60amp alternator converted
to external and used B&C's LR3C-14 regulator?
Does this make since to do?
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "GMC" <gmcnutt(at)uniserve.com> |
Subject: | nose gear shimmy |
Subject: Re: RV-List: nose gear shimmy
Big Snip >>> I have many hours in a Grumman, which also has a castering
nosewheel.
The answer to the shimmy problem on them is to increase the drag on the
nosewheel fork.
The Grummans have belleville (also known as cup)washers and the nut holding
the fork
onto the gear leg is tightened to increase the drag on the fork. Whether or
not this
will be any help to an RV owner, I can't say. I can say that reducing the
tire pressure
won't stop the shimmy in a Grumman.
------
I have the following thoughts about RV-6A nose gear shimmy after dealing
with it on both my and a friends aircraft.
1) First check which gear is the problem, a main gear may be causing the
problem and it can be very difficult
to tell the difference. Have someone stand close to the runway to observe
the gear while you do a few landings.
Main gear shimmy can usually be cured by getting rid of the Aero Trainer
tires and/or balancing the
wheel pants.
2) After curing the main gear shake I now have some residual "shimmy" in the
nose gear on roll-out at about 25 to 15 MPH.
I tightened the belleville (cup) washers on the nose gear twice, one flat of
the nut each time with no effect. When I later checked the breakout pressure
on the nose wheel it was too high and I had to back the nut off those two
flats, essentially there had been no change in breakout pressure from brand
new up to 240 hrs.
3) I believe that the "shimmy" I feel from my nose wheel is not a sideways
shimmy but is in fact a vertical bounce of the gear leg and it is influenced
by tire pressure. I have reduced the "shimmy" to what I now consider normal,
but not eliminated it entirely. My nose wheel is not out of round and has
been balanced.
George in Langley
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Hal / Carol Kempthorne <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV6/A Gross Weight.... |
I set mine at 1800 lbs - it is my airplane.
Setting the GW too low can cause a problem if you load heavier than that
setting and have an accident/incident wherein overloading is an issue.
Technically, there are several things that limit gross weight for an airplane:
1. Ability to takeoff and climb
2. Loads on structure while on the ground
3. Loads on structure while in the air.
4. Center of gravity - balance (I have often flown alone with
heavy baggage in the pax seat and on the pax floor.)
5. Mission of flights - my limit for aerobatics is still 1375 lbs.
If you want to set your GW to eliminate legal problems in all possible
situations, better set it to zero.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bob U." <rv3(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV6/A Gross Weight.... |
Hal / Carol Kempthorne wrote:
>
>I set mine at 1800 lbs - it is my airplane.
>
>Setting the GW too low can cause a problem if you load heavier than that
>setting and have an accident/incident wherein overloading is an issue.
>
>Technically, there are several things that limit gross weight for an airplane:
>
> 1. Ability to takeoff and climb
>
> 2. Loads on structure while on the ground
>
> 3. Loads on structure while in the air.
>
> 4. Center of gravity - balance (I have often flown alone with
>heavy baggage in the pax seat and on the pax floor.)
>
> 5. Mission of flights - my limit for aerobatics is still 1375 lbs.
>
>If you want to set your GW to eliminate legal problems in all possible
>situations, better set it to zero.
>
>K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
>RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
>PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
>
Addressing #3....
Would you all believe MANUEVERING speed increases as gross weight increases?
So, flying your airplane at cruise in rough air is safer with a max
load.
Bob
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | G B <microsys(at)alltel.net> |
Hello,
A fellow RV'er let me borrow some CHT probes that he had as spares for his
IO-360.
Question is: these seem to be thermistor type, measuring around 7k ohm
at room temperature.
What is this 14mm or 18mm size mean? The probe is quite small and seems
to have a thread diameter
of 3/8", and a probe length (below threaded area) of 0.85".
Also, I see other CHT probes that use rings under spark plugs, and these
seem to be the thermocouple
type.
What are some of you using?
Thanks,
Glen
RV9 emp almost done, wings on order
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tim_Lewis(at)msm.umr.edu |
Subject: | WxWorx observations |
Sunday I completed my first long XC with WxWorx weather data link. The flight
was
from HEF (Manassas VA) to ISM (Kissimmee FL). I mounted the WxWorx receiver
under the panel. The WxWorx antenna and GPS antenna sit on the dash. I display
the weather on a Fujitsu ST 5011D daylight-readable Tablet PC mounted on the
panel (photos at http://www.tabletpcbuzz.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=11230).
Observations: Wx Worx works great! Nexrad radar updates every 5-6 min, w/ 7-level
radar displayed in color. Lightning data is also displayed.
The route took us through several areas of thunderstorms and IFR conditions. I
used
Wx Worx to pick a route clear of precip, and well away from the lightning. At
our fuel
stop I found that the FBO's radar display was down, and FSS was reporting multiple
TRWs in the area. Without WxWork I would have been afraid to launch into this
wx.
With WxWorx, it was easy and safe. I turned WxWorx on a few minutes before
engine start to get a radar update, took off and picked up our IFR clearance airborne.
I used WxWorx to ID the storm cells and request deviations well ahead of time.
It
was nice to be able to pick up METARs and TAFs well ahead of time, too.
I think WxWorx is a great product. The $50/month subscription is pricey, but the
data
can be invaluable.
Tim Lewis
RV-6A N47TD, 650 hrs
Writing from Di$ney World
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
Subject: | Re: Garmin 430 install manual |
You can get manuals through this site:
http://www.garmin.com/contactUs/techSupport.jsp
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rob Prior" <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
Subject: | Re: RV6/A Gross Weight.... |
On 21:42 04/05/2004 Hal / Carol Kempthorne wrote:
> Setting the GW too low can cause a problem if you load heavier than that
> setting and have an accident/incident wherein overloading is an issue.
I would suggest that if your insurance company finds out that the only
reason you set the GW to 1800# was so you could operate the plane beyond
it's design GW, that you'll still be up the creek unless you can show some
engineering that supports your change to 1800#.
I've been watching this thread and telling myself I wouldn't get
involved... I've already been through the same arguement on the
Recreational Aircraft Association's national mailing list. But this one
statement really stuck out as ludicrous:
(factors that affect choice of gross weight)
> 5. Mission of flights - my limit for aerobatics is still 1375 lbs.
Why? You obviously think an extra 200# is safe for normal and utility
category operations. Why don't you think it's safe for acro? In either
case, you're eating into design margins that were put there to protect you
and the airframe from errors.
> If you want to set your GW to eliminate legal problems in all possible
> situations, better set it to zero.
Or set it to what Van's recommends in the first place.
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rob Prior" <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
Subject: | Re: RV6/A Gross Weight.... |
> >
> >
> > 3. Loads on structure while in the air.
>
> Addressing #3....
> Would you all believe MANUEVERING speed increases as gross weight
> increases? So, flying your airplane at cruise in rough air is safer with
> a max load.
Completely untrue. If you think about it for a minute, you'll see why. If
it were true, then it would be even safer if you had 4000# in it. One spot
of bumpy air, though, and you'll be looking for your parachute in your
4000# of baggage.
The maneuvering speed only increases with gross weight IF you assume that
the same design limits apply. ie. if 1600# at 4g is safe (Van's design)
then your Va only increases IF you assume that 1800# at 4g is also safe.
Or if you've put some of that increased gross weight into beefing up the
structure of the aircraft.
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dale Mitchell <dfm4290(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV6/A Gross Weight.... |
--- Rob Prior wrote:
>
>
>
> Kempthorne
> > >
> > >
> > > 3. Loads on structure while in the
> air.
> >
> > Addressing #3....
> > Would you all believe MANUEVERING speed increases
> as gross weight
> > increases? So, flying your airplane at cruise in
> rough air is safer with
> > a max load.
>
> Completely untrue. If you think about it for a
> minute, you'll see why. If
> it were true, then it would be even safer if you had
> 4000# in it. One spot
> of bumpy air, though, and you'll be looking for your
> parachute in your
> 4000# of baggage.
>
> The maneuvering speed only increases with gross
> weight IF you assume that
> the same design limits apply. ie. if 1600# at 4g is
> safe (Van's design)
> then your Va only increases IF you assume that 1800#
> at 4g is also safe.
> Or if you've put some of that increased gross weight
> into beefing up the
> structure of the aircraft.
>
> -Rob
The maneuvering speed will increase with more weight.
With more weight the airplane will not as easily
change the angle of attack.
Dale Mitchell
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/careermakeover
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu> |
Subject: | Re: RV6/A Gross Weight.... |
Hal / Carol Kempthorne wrote:
>
> I set mine at 1800 lbs - it is my airplane.
This is not flame bait, I am genuinely curious - how did
you determine that 1800 lbs is safe as compared to Van's
recommended gross weight ? Did you change anything in the
airplane structure or do additional testing?
-Dj
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Brian Alley <n320wt(at)yahoo.com> |
I have a new in the box Felix Bi-Cambered prop for
sale. It is 68"D X 71"P with urethane leading edge
protection. The prop mounts on an 0320 with 3/8" prop
bolts and has a 4 1/8" hub thickness. I'm selling the
prop because it has too much pitch for my application.
I have over $950.00 invested and am asking $700.00.
Interested parties my contact me off the list at
n320wt(at)yahoo.com or call me at the numbers below.
====
BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
304-872-7938 shop
304-562-6800 home
How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave Biddle" <d_biddle(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re:nose gear shimmy |
My RV-6A had the same problem and I tried everything - breakout tension,
tire balancing, close tolerance bolt, new tire, new wheel, more balancing,
various tire pressures, alignment.
Then I mounted a miniature camera to record the motion as I taxied and
dictated speed into the audio portion of the tape. It turned out to be fore
and aft motion of the nosewheel not a side to side shimmy. Starting around
22mph and getting worse up to around 40. The gearleg is flexing. The new
gearleg design actually tapers to 7/8" in the middle, the old design was 1"
the whole length.
I installed an oak stiffner shaped into the same profile as the fiberglass
fairing. That took care of 80 percent of the problem. Now it starts up a
around 27 mph taxi but not much trouble using back stick pressure on takeoff
and landing.
Dave Biddle
N432DG
RV-6A 200 hours
Phoenix, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV6/A Gross Weight.... |
--- Dale Mitchell wrote:
...snip
>
> The maneuvering speed will increase with more
> weight.
> With more weight the airplane will not as easily
> change the angle of attack.
>
> Dale Mitchell
>
NO! Maneuvering speed will DECREASE with DECREASED
weight below gross. Maneuvering speed WLL NOT
increase above gross weight. Stall speed will.
You see, two factors really come in two play when
determining maneuvering speed: Structural design load
limits AND certified "G" ratings.
You see, a utility cattegory plane cannot exceed 4.4g.
At [design] gross weight, 4.4g will be the point of
stall at the published maneuvering speed AND the
design structural limit. Reduce the weight from gross
and 4.4g will be exceeded at the gross weight
maneuvering speed, therefore the maneuvirng speed must
be decreased to keep 4.4g from being exceeded at full
control deflection. Stuctural loading of the wings
will be reduced, too, because at lower speed, the
wings will produce less lift at stall.
HOWEVER, if you increase the weight above gross, then
you will not achieve 4.4g with full elevator
deflection AT maneuvering speed, BUT the lift that the
wings produce at stall WILL be the same, hence the
same load on the spar. If you are naive enough to
think that your maneuvering speed increases if you
increase your gross weight above DESIGN limits, then
you are reducing the safety margin of your wing!
Skylor
RV-8 QB under construction
__________________________________
http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/careermakeover
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bob U." <rv3(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV6/A Gross Weight.... |
Rob Prior wrote:
>>Addressing #3....
>>Would you all believe MANEUVERING speed increases as gross weight
>>increases?
>>
>Completely untrue. If you think about it for a minute, you'll see why. If
>it were true, then it would be even safer if you had 4000# in it. One spot
>of bumpy air, though, and you'll be looking for your parachute in your
>4000# of baggage.
>
Sorry Rob,
My statement is COMPLETELY TRUE.
>The maneuvering speed only increases with gross weight IF you assume that
>the same design limits apply. ie. if 1600# at 4g is safe (Van's design)
>then your Va only increases IF you assume that 1800# at 4g is also safe.
>Or if you've put some of that increased gross weight into beefing up the
>structure of the aircraft.
>
>-Rob
>
Maneuvering speed increases with an increase in gross load regardless of
design considerations.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim and Bev Cone" <jimnbev(at)olypen.com> |
Subject: | Info on Chilliwack |
I am considering a trip to Harrison Hot Springs Resort and Spa in BC, Canada.
The nearest airport is Chilliwack, BC. Does anyone have any info on the spa or
the airport. How about getting a car at the airport? I can't seem to find
much info online. Thanks.
Jim Cone
3-Peat Offender
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Wayne Cahoon @ Aircraft Engravers" <wayne(at)engravers.net> |
Subject: | Re: anodizing instrument panel? |
Don,
Here is my two cents worth. My company Aircraft Engravers has been engraving
placards, overlays and panels for 15 years so I have a little insight into
the process involved. What it comes down to is, what do you want for the
finished look? An anodized panel can look great or as a sloppy mess if you
don't plan ahead. You have to ask yourself some questions that you may not
know the answers to right away. I'll give you some questions and some brief
answers to think about.
Q) Is the panel ever (for a long time) going to have any changes made to it?
A) Whenever you add any holes, especially counter sinks the bare aluminum
will be visible again if you don't do some touch-up.
Q) Do I want the text and/or graphics silk screened on, engraved into or do
you want placards?
A) Silk screening looks great if the surface does not have a deep brushed
texture, it should be clear coated to protect the thin silk screened paint
layer, especially around areas that have your fingers touching any text.
Engraving into the panel to make the text aluminum in color can be done but
it also must be clear coated to protect the bare aluminum for oxidation.
Both of these procedures limit you to make changes without removing the
panel to have it updated. Having placards and overlays can give you a very
large choice of options such as; Colors, textures, material types, a lower
cost and the ability to easily change any aspect of the panel. In 3 years
when you add a new circuit breaker, a new overlay can easily be made and
installed with only removing any local switches and/or breakers.
Q) Are you open to another option such as a painted panel?
A) We have directions for you to paint your panel with 2 contrasting colored
paints. I will use black and white for this example but any two contracting
colors can be used. First prime the panel, then paint it a base color of the
text. Then paint the top finish color. Aircraft Engravers would then engrave
through the top color into the base color without going into the aluminum
panel below. This type of panel looks as if it came right out of the
factory. Of course there is more about this on my web site.
The painted panel info can be found at
http://engravers.net/aircraft/painted_panels.htm
While the custom overlays can be found at
http://engravers.net/aircraft/custom-placards.htm
It's a tuff job to get clear detailed images of the jobs that we have done
in a small file size
I do have one problem that I don't know how to solve. When placing images on
my site what is the best sizes to make them verses how fast they down load
verses the detail needed to see the text clearly. Any help from anyone would
be greatly appreciated. I can send you or anyone reading this message an
email with the images at any resolution they need so that they can be seen
up close.
If I can help you in any way you can contact me.
Wayne Cahoon
Aircraft Engravers
(860) 653-2780
(860) 653-7324 Fax
http://engravers.net/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: anodizing instrument panel?
>
> I'm curious what others opinion would be about anodizing an instrument
panel
> grey or black. It might stand up to all the poking and touching that
> occurs when you throw switches, set altimeter, etc.
>
> Don
>
>
> "All of us need to be reminded that the federal government did not create
> the states; the states created the federal government!"---Ronald Reagan
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob <panamared3(at)brier.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV6/A Gross Weight.... |
>......I have an old email from
>vans listing up to 1800 but limiting to 4.5 G's (1750/4.7G, 1700/4.8G)....
Are you sure this is from Van's Aircraft?????
My FSDO inspector asked Van's to put this in writing and Van refused. You
can put anything you want in your POH, but if you think it is from Van's I
would get it in writing signed by Van himself. If you do get it, I would
like a copy!
Been there, done that, and was returned to Go without collecting $200!
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
Subject: | Free shipping on Builder's Bookstore |
We are now offering free UPS shipping with all orders over $50 on:
www.buildersbooks.com (for the custom airplane builder)
www.PilotsBooks.com (for pilots and aircraft owners)
www.ACtechbooks.com (for professional and student A&Ps)
If you haven't yet, come take a look at our huge selection of RV relevant
material from Vans, EAA, Jeppesen, Bob Nuckolls, Sam James, and 38 other
publishers, including our own unique Aircraft Builder's Logbook.
Shipments which can't go by UPS Ground will be given a credit to shipping of
up to 10% of the value of your order. Orders under $50 are charged just the
actual shipping cost - never "packing or handling"
Thank you everyone for your business and continued support over the years.
Andy Gold
Builder's Bookstore
800 780-4115
RV-6A N-5060 - flying
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ross Schlotthauer" <rv7maker(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Internal Regulated Alternator converted to External? |
Bobby,
I think it makes sense if you want to have overvoltage protection. I
however am not sure how to modify the regulator so I am following lectric
bobs plans to add the OV protection to an internal unit which should be
equivelent. You can see Bob's approach at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Appendix_Z_Drawings/z24-25h.dwg
-Ross Schlotthauer
RV-7 Finishing
www.experimentalair.com
>From: Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com, RV7and7A ,
>RV-List
>Subject: RV-List: Internal Regulated Alternator converted to External?
>Date: Tue, 04 May 2004 23:01:20 -0500
>
>
>Has anyone had there Van's internal regulated 60amp alternator converted
>to external and used B&C's LR3C-14 regulator?
>Does this make since to do?
>
>--
>Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
>Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
>RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
>
>
Watch LIVE baseball games on your computer with MLB.TV, included with MSN
Premium!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim Needham <stickshker_99(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Northern Airborne Tech. |
I have a switching relay made by NAT (p/n RS08-001) does anyone know
how to set this up to switch a KNI-520 indicator between a Garmin
GNC420 input and a UPS SL30 LOC/GS input. If this is not practical
what would be a good alternative? Thanks in advance.
Jim Needham
RV-7
====
Jim Needham
Port Townsend, WA
__________________________________
http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/careermakeover
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard Suffoletto" <rsuffoletto(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Wing incidence spacer block |
I have not found a recent post on this subject in the archives... My question is
on the size of the spacer used with a level to measure wing incidence. On RV-7
drawing # 38 it shows the spacer as three inches. I also have instructions
that say make a 2.78 " spacer. ( don't you love these measurements / tolerances
? ) Which is correct? with the three inch spacer my level(electronic) indicates
zero and with a 2.8" spacer I am at 1 degree... The documents I am using are
2001 vintage.
Thanks
Richard
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave Hyde" <nauga(at)brick.net> |
Subject: | SoCal hangar space? |
Does anyone know of any hangar space
available *anywhere* in Southern California?
I'll be moving my RV-4 out there sometime
around July. Prefer on or near SNA,
but I don't think I can be too picky.
Dave Hyde
RV-4 in flight test
nauga(at)brick.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV6/A Gross Weight.... |
>
>
> --- Dale Mitchell wrote:
> ...snip
> >
> > The maneuvering speed will increase with more
> > weight.
> > With more weight the airplane will not as easily
> > change the angle of attack.
> >
> > Dale Mitchell
> >
It all boils down to Mr. Newton and F=MA. (Force = Mass*Acceleration). Since
we are interested in the effect of changing aircraft weight(mass) on
maneuvering speed, we can rearrange the equation to where Acceleration Force/Mass.
If the acceleration A (G loading the aircraft is capable of a
maneuvering speed) remains constant (in otherwords we do not exceed - say a
6 G load limit) then if A is to remain constant, the ratio to which it is
equal (F/M )must remain constant. So lets say we reduce the weight of the
aircraft (or reduce the mass), if A = F/M is to remain constant and we
reduce M then F must also reduce to maintain the ratio of F/M which of
course is our acceleration limit. We have reduced M and therefore must
reduce F so that the ratio remains at or 6 G limit. The way we reduce F
(force) is to reduce the airspeed producing the loading on the wing and
therefore reducing the loading.
So contrary to what intuition might have you believe - i.e. lighter weight
means higher maneuvering speed, in reality just the opposite is correct.
Lighter mass/weight requires a lower maneuvering airspeed. The structural
strength and stall speed of the wing (at that weight) also are factors. The
maneuvering speed is calculated so that the Force produced by the 6 G
maneuver (in this example) will stall the wing (reducing the force) before
exceeding the structural limits.
Ed Anderson
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV6/A Gross Weight.... |
>
>Rob Prior wrote:
>
>>>Addressing #3....
>>>Would you all believe MANEUVERING speed increases as gross weight
>>>increases?
>>>
>>Completely untrue. If you think about it for a minute, you'll see why. If
>>it were true, then it would be even safer if you had 4000# in it. One spot
>>of bumpy air, though, and you'll be looking for your parachute in your
>>4000# of baggage.
>>
>
>Sorry Rob,
>My statement is COMPLETELY TRUE.
>
>>The maneuvering speed only increases with gross weight IF you assume that
>>the same design limits apply. ie. if 1600# at 4g is safe (Van's design)
>>then your Va only increases IF you assume that 1800# at 4g is also safe.
>>Or if you've put some of that increased gross weight into beefing up the
>>structure of the aircraft.
>>
>>-Rob
>>
>
>Maneuvering speed increases with an increase in gross load regardless of
>design considerations.
>
>Bob
>
You are both right, depending on the details of the design. It
depends on what part of the structure is limiting. I.e. which part
will be the first to fail if you put too much load on it.
Case 1 - the limiting structure sees the same loads no matter what
the gross weight is, like an engine mount. If the strength of the
engine mount is what caused the designer to recommend a certain g
limit, then the loads on the mount will not change will gross weight
(assuming the weight of the engine and prop is constant). In this
case the manoeuvring speed will go up with gross weight.
Case 2 - the limiting structure sees loads that vary with gross
weight, like a wing spar. In this case the structure has been
designed to see a certain load, e.g. 6 g at 1375 lb gross weight -
the wing is designed to support a load of 8,250 lb. The manoeuvring
speed is the speed at which the wing can produce 8,250 lb of lift at
the stall (actually, the wing has to do a bit more than that, as it
also has to counter the downwards lift of the tail, but we'll ignore
that for simplicity). If you put some more sandbags in the baggage
compartment to get up to 1800 lb gross weight, the wing is no
stronger than it was before, and it can still only handle 8,250 lb of
lift. Now the g-limit has to be 8,250/1,800 = 4.58 g. The
manoeurving speed is still the speed at which the wing can develop
8,250 lb of lift at the stall - in other words it is the same speed
as it was at 1,375 lb gross weight.
Usually we don't know whether we are dealing with Case 1 or Case 2,
so we have to assume that they both may be valid. So, we should keep
the manoeuvring speed the same if we increase gross weight (to cover
Case 2), and we need to reduce manouvring speed if we reduce gross
weight (to cover Case 1, by ensuring the available load factor does
not increase above the allowable limit).
From a structural point of the view it is actually a bit more
complicated than I have described, as it does matter where on the
airframe you put the extra weight. Extra weight in the fuselage is
much worse than extra weight in the wings, as the wing bending moment
is much more affected by fuselage weight increases than wing weight
increases. Picture a long span modern glider. If you put a bunch of
extra weight in the fuselage, you put a lot of extra load on the wing
spar. But if you distribute the same amount of additional weight
evenly along the wing span, then the loads on the wing spar increase
only a little, or maybe not at all.
Clear as mud?
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave Hyde" <nauga(at)brick.net> |
Subject: | re: Socal hangar space |
Dan Checkoway wrote:
> Best of luck getting a hangar.
Just so it's clear, I'm looking for shared space
in a hangar, not a hangar to myself.
I'll try the SoCal yahoo group too, thanks.
Dave Hyde
nauga(at)brick.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: Undercarriage Stiffeners |
>
> It sounds like the stiffeners helped to save Ed's day; but, I just wonder
> how much damage was done at the points where the gear legs enter the
mounts.
> Granted, I'm sure Ed wasn't too worried about that at the time. :-)
Still,
> it had to put a lot of stress on those points.
>
> Alas, I must admit that I did not build my airplane to withstand crashes,
> etc.. I built it hoping I'd never crash it. With that, I've built it
with
> the day to day operation in mind with much hoping that I'll never need to
> test out the Van's design. If that happens, I'm hoping the insurance
> company will work with me to replace the bent gear and any other damage
that
> may be caused by the bent gear. From what I've seen from some bent ones,
I
> can manage the repairs. I'll not be using the stiffeners on the -7A,
> either.
>
> Jim Sears in KY
> EAA Tech Counselor
>
You are correct, Jim, at the time, I was not the least bit concerned - you
can well understand. However, I later got thinking about the same thing and
took off the fairing to inspect as best I could. I did a dye test on the
upper legs where they go into the sockets and down 4 inches and found no
signs of cracks. Does not mean the gear was not stressed but apparently the
stress stayed with design limits.
You'll note I did not recommend stiffeners, just related one experience (and
hopefully the only one {:>)) that I believe stiffeners may have helped. I
have heard of no failure of the main gear of the 6 series due to stiffener
induced failures which was the Van recommended way (at that time) to reduce
potential gear shimmy. Van clearly changed his view about the value of
stiffeners later.
Ed Anderson
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
Subject: | Re: RV6/A Gross Weight.... |
Here is what my RV-6/6A builders manual says in Section 14 "Weight and
Balance" on page 14-1 (dated 14/4/97) under a list of definitions:
Quote:
Gross Weight: Sum of empty weight plus crew, passengers, fuel and baggage.
It is important because of the effect it has on both the structure and
performance of the airplane. Obviously, higher gross weights will diminish
all aspects of performance, particularly takeoff and climb performance.
Increased weight also increases stall speed. Higher gross weights will tend
to overstress the airplane's structure in flight and on the ground. In the
Experimental Amateur Built Category - the category in which the RV-6/6A
would typically be licensed - the aircraft builder is allowed to specify
this weight. Van's recommends a 1600-1650 pound limit.
End quote.
The bottom of page 14-3 (same date) has a table entitled "RV-6/6A Weights
and Limits - Easy Reference" with the words "Recommended Gross Weight
1600/1650 lbs" in it and the worked W&B samples use 1600 lbs for an RV-6 and
say nothing about max gross for a RV-6A.
So that's Van's sort of final word. The builder sets the Gross weight and
1600 lbs is recommended for a -6 and 1650 lbs for a -6A.
However, interestingly, the manual that came with my preview plans (and
which leaves page 14-1 undated although it looks newer) uses the same first
five sentences of the Gross Weight definition but leaves out the final two
sentences after ".... on the ground." The table entitled "RV-6/6A Weights
and Limits - Easy Reference" in the earlier manual is simply missing. The
sample W&B calculations do use 1600 lbs for a -6 and 1650 lbs for a -6A.
One suspects that Vans and his employees have been nagged incessantly over
the years to provide detailed analyses for this weight or that and, having
learned their lesson, now simply refuse to discuss max weight issues leaving
these to each and every builder's personal discretion. The later editions of
the builders manual seem intentionally silent on this issue.
Personally I use 1750 lbs on a more restrictive aft CofG limit above 1650
lbs for my -6A. In practical terms, it is quite hard to get a gross weight
above 1700 in my aircraft and remain forward of this aft limit unless I pile
lead bars, etc. up by the rudder pedals which I expect I will never do. (As
fuel burns below 1650, the aft limit go further aft so no problem for
landing).
Of possible interest, I have read airworthiness authorities will (or used
to) routinely issue one-off flight permits for over gross operations of up
to 15% over normal gross weight but with restrictions such as no passengers,
etc. This helps out those lucky guys who ferry light singles across the
oceans and so on.
Jim Oke
RV-6A
Wpg., MB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob" <panamared3(at)brier.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6/A Gross Weight....
>
>
> >......I have an old email from
> >vans listing up to 1800 but limiting to 4.5 G's (1750/4.7G,
1700/4.8G)....
>
>
> Are you sure this is from Van's Aircraft?????
>
> My FSDO inspector asked Van's to put this in writing and Van refused. You
> can put anything you want in your POH, but if you think it is from Van's I
> would get it in writing signed by Van himself. If you do get it, I would
> like a copy!
>
> Been there, done that, and was returned to Go without collecting $200!
>
> Bob
> RV6 NightFighter
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bob U." <rv3(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV6/A Gross Weight.... |
Kevin Horton wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>Maneuvering speed increases with an increase in gross load regardless of
>>design considerations.
>>
>>Bob
>>
>>
>>
>
>You are both right, depending on the details of the design. It
>depends on what part of the structure is limiting. I.e. which part
>will be the first to fail if you put too much load on it.
>
>
> From a structural point of the view it is actually a bit more
>complicated than I have described, as it does matter where on the
>airframe you put the extra weight. Extra weight in the fuselage is
>much worse than extra weight in the wings, as the wing bending moment
>is much more affected by fuselage weight increases than wing weight
>increases. Picture a long span modern glider. If you put a bunch of
>extra weight in the fuselage, you put a lot of extra load on the wing
>spar. But if you distribute the same amount of additional weight
>evenly along the wing span, then the loads on the wing spar increase
>only a little, or maybe not at all.
>
>Clear as mud?
>
Plenty clear here, Kevin.
Of course, it was very clear to me before stirring the INTUITION POT a
tad. :-)
P.S.
Anybody ever notice that the fire bombers that lost their wings lost
them when they UNLOADED?
Bob - devil's advocate and retired pilot of extremely overloaded crop
dusters.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bluecavu(at)aol.com |
Subject: | anodizing instrument panel? |
>>I'm curious what others opinion would be about anodizing an instrument
panel
grey or black.=A0 It might stand up to all the poking and touching=A0 that
occurs when you throw switches, set altimeter, etc.<<
Although I'm really not a proponent of doing something like the skins and
some other thin and stressed structural parts for many reasons -see my earlier
post - *I am* in favor of anodizing or powder-coating the instrument panel,
various interior parts, bafffeling and a host of other things. I've seen one
anodized RV instrument panel and it was pretty cool. A friend had all the
baffeling for his project powder-coated and it's holding up great. There are lots
of
planes flying around with anodized baffeling. Anodizing is a very cool and
tough surface finish... and so is powder- coating -just not the sort of thing you
want on the outside of your plane as a primary finish.
Another thing regarding powder-coating... just like paint, there are many
different varieties of power-coat. Some are hard as rock, some more flexible,
etc. Some designed for different temperature ranges, and on and on. So you can't
just lump all powder-coat jobs in one category.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave Ford" <dford(at)michweb.net> |
Surely there must be a simple solution for cleaning bug blood & guts from the propellor--anybody
have a good recipe?
Dave Ford
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: RV6/A Gross Weight.... |
In a message dated 5/5/2004 11:38:41 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
skylor4(at)yahoo.com writes:
If you are naive enough to
think that your maneuvering speed increases if you
increase your gross weight above DESIGN limits, then
you are reducing the safety margin of your wing!
==========================================
I believe that the 6 wing was determined to suffer permanent deformation at
11g when rated at 1600 gross, that's 9.26g at 1900 lbs gross. I can live with
that. You just have to ask yourself whether you really believe that your wing
is built as strong as a 6. The gear needs to be guarded by good landings at
this weight though.
GV (RV-6A N1GV flying 690 hrs at 1900 lb gross wt)
Not all questions or values which human beings find worth pursuing and
committing themselves to can be approached scientifically. There can be no doubt
that scientific theories fulfill a vital human need. But so do non-scientific
theories, whether they be in the field of cosmology or religion, art, morality,
knowledge or even science. ---Robert Todd Carroll
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
Subject: | Re: blood & guts |
At 21:01 2004-05-05, you wrote:
>
>Surely there must be a simple solution for cleaning bug blood & guts from
>the propellor--anybody have a good recipe?
>
>Dave Ford
>RV6
Nice segue Dave, I was getting tired of that gross weight thread. P-)
If it's a metal prop try Goof-Off. It's at Home Depot in the paint
department. Not sure about a wood prop, caution on the finish.
Mike
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
13B in gestation mode, RD-1C, EC-2
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: blood & guts |
At SNF, MT Propeller introduced a new product called MT-Propeller Care Kit X9
I got some when I was there, but haven't tried it yet.
(Why clean the propeller when I still need to fill some holes and repaint the
nose bowl.)
Available from MT-Propeller USA, Inc. Florida
(386) 736-7762
Email: mtprop(at)bellsouth.net
Jim Ayers
Less Drag Products, Inc.
RV-3 N47RV LOM M332A with oil cooler installed.
Strange how those Northern Europeans don't seem to need oil coolers? :-)
In a message dated 05/05/2004 9:04:20 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com writes:
If it's a metal prop try Goof-Off. It's at Home Depot in the paint
department. Not sure about a wood prop, caution on the finish.
Mike
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
13B in gestation mode, RD-1C, EC-2
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: blood & guts |
Cold water, while they are fresh.
Cash
In a message dated 5/5/2004 7:51:14 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
dford(at)michweb.net writes:
Surely there must be a simple solution for cleaning bug blood & guts from the
propellor--anybody have a good recipe?
Dave Ford
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Thomas Wimmer" <thomas.wimmer(at)web.de> |
Subject: | small slip-indicator [slightly offtopic] |
Hello
for an (not rv-related) project, we do need a small slip-indicator (the "ball").
Can you point me to a vendor that sells these (certification not required)?
Thanks in advance
Thomas
... and the winner is... WEB.DE FreeMail! - Deutschlands beste E-Mail
ist zum 39. Mal Testsieger (PC Praxis 03/04) http://f.web.de/?mc=021191
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ross Scroggs" <rv4ross(at)charter.net> |
Subject: | Re: blood & guts |
Dave,
On a metal prop, I use 409 or Fantastic and then use fresh water
afterwards. When it is dry, put
a coat of a good paste wax on both sides. This will help you clean the bugs
off after a flight.
I own a Cub with a wood prop and use the same procedure.
Works great!
Ross Scroggs
RV4 Wings
Locust Grove, Ga.
----- Original Message -----
From: <JusCash(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: blood & guts
>
> Cold water, while they are fresh.
>
> Cash
>
> In a message dated 5/5/2004 7:51:14 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> dford(at)michweb.net writes:
>
> Surely there must be a simple solution for cleaning bug blood & guts from
the
> propellor--anybody have a good recipe?
>
> Dave Ford
> RV6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Trainnut01(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: blood & guts |
A light coat of PAM cooking spray before flight will make the bugs wipe right
off after the flight. Works well on my wood Weedhopper prop also.
Carroll Jernigan
7A Wings.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: small slip-indicator [slightly offtopic] |
From: | Jack Haviland <jgh2(at)charter.net> |
On Thursday, May 6, 2004, at 06:52 AM, Thomas Wimmer wrote:
> Can you point me to a vendor that sells these (certification not
> required)?
www.airstuff.com
jack
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David E. Nelson" <david.nelson(at)pobox.com> |
Subject: | Re: blood & guts |
Hi Ross,
Not sure what type of metal(s) are used for metal props, but I was warned in
one of my EAA meetings not to use 409 on aluminum (even the MSDS warns about
using 409 on the aluminum -
http://www.biosci.ohio-state.edu/~jsmith/MSDS/FORMULA%20409%20DEGREASER.htm)since
it chemically reacts with it. So a _good_ rinsing is required.
Regards,
/\/elson
RV-7A - SB wings almost here...
Austin, TX
On Thu, 6 May 2004, Ross Scroggs wrote:
>
> Dave,
> On a metal prop, I use 409 or Fantastic and then use fresh water
> afterwards. When it is dry, put a coat of a good paste wax on both sides.
> This will help you clean the bugs off after a flight. I own a Cub with a wood
> prop and use the same procedure. Works great!
>
> Ross Scroggs
> RV4 Wings
> Locust Grove, Ga.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <JusCash(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: blood & guts
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gordon Robertson" <grobertson(at)verizon.net> |
>>Surely there must be a simple solution for cleaning bug blood & guts from
the propellor--anybody>>have a good recipe?
I have never tried this on an airplane, but I find that on my cars Simple
Green, applied concentrated, removes EVERYTHING except paint. Removes tar,
bugs, grease and oil, brake pad dust from the wheels, etc. Spray or wipe
on, leave 2-3 minutes, and rub off.
Also removes polish, so remember to rewax afterwards.
Gordon Robertson
RV8
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Aviation humor off-topic hit delete, etc |
Date: Wed, 5 May 2004 18:47:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: Liz <lilibet2(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Pilotism's
"Lt. Warren W. Tomlinson" ,
Rob Wells ,
Byrd & Judy Saville ,
Ray and Lynn Moffett ,
"Lt. jg Amy Redditt" ,
Chris & Stoney Richards ,
Gin & Bill Edmunds , Fran Bullard ,
Lou Churchville
--0-1266889236-1083808028=:88156
The only three things a wingman should ever say are:
1. Two's up.
2. Lead, you're on fire.
3. I'll take the fat chick.
...and in a multi-place aircraft, there are only three things the copilot should
ever say:
1. Nice landing, Sir.
2. I'll buy the first round.
3. I'll take the fat chick.
As a new copilot on American Airlines, I was told to say these three things, and
otherwise keep my mouth shut and not touch anything:
1. Clear on the right.
2. Outer (marker) on the double (indicator)
3. I'll eat the chicken. (Crew meals consisted of one steak and one chicken to
avoid possible food poisoning of the cockpit crew).
About Pilots
1. As an aviator in flight you can do anything you want... As long as it's right...
And we'll let you know if it's right after you get down.
2. You can't fly forever without getting killed.
3. As a pilot only two bad things can happen to you and one of them will: a. One
day you will walk out to the aircraft knowing that it is your last flight in
a airplane.. b. One day you will walk out to the airplane not knowing that
it is your last flight in a airplane..
4. Any flight over water in a single engine airplane will absolutely guarantee
abnormal engine noises and vibrations.
5. There are Rules and there are Laws. The rules are made by men who think that
they know better how to fly your airplane than you. The Laws (of Physics) were
made by the Great One. You can, and sometimes should, suspend the Rules but
you can never suspend the Laws.
6. More about Rules: a. The rules are a good place to hide if you don't have a
better idea and the talent to execute it. b. If you deviate from a rule, it must
be a flawless performance. (e.g., If you fly under a bridge, don't hit the
bridge.)
7. The pilot is the highest form of life on earth.
8. The ideal pilot is the perfect blend of discipline and aggressiveness.
9. About check rides: a. The only real objective of a check ride is to complete
it and get the bastard out of your airplane. b. It has never occurred to any
flight examiner that the examinee couldn't care less what the examiner's opinion
of his flying ability really is.
10. The medical profession is the natural enemy of the aviation profession.
11. The job of the Wing Commander is to worry incessantly that his career depends
solely on the abilities of his aviators to fly their airplanes without mishap
and that their only minuscule contribution to the effort is to bet their lives
on it.
12. Ever notice that the only experts who decree that the age of the pilot is over
are people who have never flown anything? Also, in spite of the intensity
of their feelings that the pilot's day is over I know of no such expert who
has volunteered to be a passenger in a non-piloted aircraft.
13. It is absolutely imperative that the pilot be unpredictable. Rebelliousness
is very predictable. In the end, conforming almost all the time is the best way
to be unpredictable.
14. He who demands everything that his aircraft can give him is a pilot; he that
demands one iota more is a fool.
15. If you're gonna fly low, do not fly slow! ASW pilots know this only too well.
16. It is solely the pilot's responsibility to never let any other thing touch
his aircraft.
17. If you can learn how to fly as a Lt. and not forget how to fly by the time
you're a Lt.Col you will have lived a happy life.
18. About night flying: a. Remember that the airplane doesn't know that it's dark.
b. On a clear, moonless night, never fly between the tanker's lights. c. There
are certain aircraft sounds that can only be heard at night. d. If you're
going to night fly, it might as well be in the weather so you can double count
your exposure to both hazards. e. Night formation is really an endless series
of near misses in equilibrium with each other. f. You would have to pay a
lot of money at a lot of amusement parks and perhaps add a few drugs, to get
the same blend of psychedelic sensations as a single engine night weather flight.19.
One of the most important skills that a pilot must develop is the skill
to ignore those things that were designed by non-pilots to get the pilot's
attention.
20. At the end of the day, the controllers, ops supervisors, maintenance guys,
weather guessers, and birds; they're all trying to kill you and your job is to
not let them!
21. The concept of "controlling" airspace with radar is just a form of FAA sarcasm
directed at pilots to see if they're gullible enough to swallow it. Or to
put it another way, when's the last time the FAA ever shot anyone down?
22. Remember that the radio is only an electronic suggestion box for the pilot.
Sometimes the only way to clear up a problem is to turn it off.
23. It is a tacit, yet profound admission of the pre-eminence of flying in the
hierarchy of the human spirit, that those who seek to control aviators via threats
always threaten to take one's wings and not one's life.
24. Remember when flying low and inverted that the rudder still works the same
old way but hopefully your IP never taught you "pull stick back, plane go up".
25. Mastering the prohibited maneuvers in the Natops Manual is one of the best
forms of aviation life insurance you can get.
26. A tactic done twice is a procedure. (Refer to unpredictability discussion above)
27. The aircraft G-limits are only there in case there is another flight by that
particular airplane. If subsequent flights do not appear likely, there are
no G-limits.
28. One of the beautiful things about a single piloted aircraft is the quality
of the social experience.
29. If a mother has the slightest suspicion that her infant might grow up to be
a pilot, she had better teach him to put things back where he got them.
30. The ultimate responsibility of the pilot is to fulfill the dreams of the countless
millions of earthbound ancestors who could only stare skyward and wish.
---------------------------------
--0-1266889236-1083808028=:88156
The only three things a wingman should ever say are:
1. Two's up.
2. Lead, you're on fire.
3. I'll take the fat chick.
...and in a multi-place aircraft, there are only three things the copilot should
ever say:
1. Nice landing, Sir.
2. I'll buy the first round.
3. I'll take the fat chick.
As a new copilot on American Airlines, I was told to say these three things, and
otherwise keep my mouth shut and not touch anything:
1. Clear on the right.
2. Outer (marker) on the double (indicator)
3. I'll eat the chicken. (Crew meals consisted of one steak and one chicken to
avoid possible food poisoning of the cockpit crew).
About Pilots
1. As an aviator in flight you can do anything you want... As long as it's right...
And we'll let you know if it's right after you get down.
2. You can't fly forever without getting killed.
3. As a pilot only two bad things can happen to you and one of them will: a. One
day you will walk out to the aircraft knowing that it is your last flight in
a airplane.. b. One day you will walk out to the airplane not knowing that it
is your last flight in a airplane..
4. Any flight over water in a single engine airplane will absolutely guarantee
abnormal engine noises and vibrations.
5. There are Rules and there are Laws. The rules are made by men who think that
they know better how to fly your airplane than you. The Laws (of Physics) were
made by the Great One. You can, and sometimes should, suspend the Rules but
you can never suspend the Laws.
6. More about Rules: a. The rules are a good place to hide if you don't have a
better idea and the talent to execute it. b. If you deviate from a rule, it must
be a flawless performance. (e.g., If you fly under a bridge, don't hit the
bridge.)
7. The pilot is the highest form of life on earth.
8. The ideal pilot is the perfect blend of discipline and aggressiveness.
9. About check rides: a. The only real objective of a check ride is to complete
it and get the bastard out of your airplane. b. It has never occurred to any
flight examiner that the examinee couldn't care less what the examiner's opinion
of his flying ability really is.
10. The medical profession is the natural enemy of the aviation profession.
11. The job of the Wing Commander is to worry incessantly that his career depends
solely on the abilities of his aviators to fly their airplanes without mishap
and that their only minuscule contribution to the effort is to bet their lives
on it.
12. Ever notice that the only experts who decree that the age of the pilot is over
are people who have never flown anything? Also, in spite of the intensity
of their feelings that the pilot's day is over I know of no such expert who has
volunteered to be a passenger in a non-piloted aircraft.
13. It is absolutely imperative that the pilot be unpredictable. Rebelliousness
is very predictable. In the end, conforming almost all the time is the best way
to be unpredictable.
14. He who demands everything that his aircraft can give him is a pilot; he that
demands one iota more is a fool.
15. If you're gonna fly low, do not fly slow! ASW pilots know this only too well.
16. It is solely the pilot's responsibility to never let any other thing touch
his aircraft.
17. If you can learn how to fly as a Lt. and not forget how to fly by the time
you're a Lt.Col you will have lived a happy life.
18. About night flying: a. Remember that the airplane doesn't know that it's dark.
b. On a clear, moonless night, never fly between the tanker's lights. c. There
are certain aircraft sounds that can only be heard at night. d. If you're
going to night fly, it might as well be in the weather so you can double count
your exposure to both hazards. e. Night formation is really an endless series
of near misses in equilibrium with each other. f. You would have to pay a lot
of money at a lot of amusement parks and perhaps add a few drugs, to get the
same blend of psychedelic sensations as a single engine night weather flight.
19. One of the most important skills that a pilot must develop is the skill to
ignore those things that were designed by non-pilots to get the pilot's attention.
20. At the end of the day, the controllers, ops supervisors, maintenance guys,
weather guessers, and birds; they're all trying to kill you and your job is to
not let them!
21. The concept of "controlling" airspace with radar is just a form of FAA sarcasm
directed at pilots to see if they're gullible enough to swallow it. Or to
put it another way, when's the last time the FAA ever shot anyone down?
22. Remember that the radio is only an electronic suggestion box for the pilot.
Sometimes the only way to clear up a problem is to turn it off.
23. It is a tacit, yet profound admission of the pre-eminence of flying in the
hierarchy of the human spirit, that those who seek to control aviators via threats
always threaten to take one's wings and not one's life.
24. Remember when flying low and inverted that the rudder still works the same
old way but hopefully your IP never taught you "pull stick back, plane go up".
25. Mastering the prohibited maneuvers in the Natops Manual is one of the best
forms of aviation life insurance you can get.
26. A tactic done twice is a procedure. (Refer to unpredictability discussion above)
27. The aircraft G-limits are only there in case there is another flight by that
particular airplane. If subsequent flights do not appear likely, there are no
G-limits.
28. One of the beautiful things about a single piloted aircraft is the quality
of the social experience.
29. If a mother has the slightest suspicion that her infant might grow up to be
a pilot, she had better teach him to put things back where he got them.
30. The ultimate responsibility of the pilot is to fulfill the dreams of the countless
millions of earthbound ancestors who could only stare skyward and wish.
--0-1266889236-1083808028=:88156--
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kosta Lewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
Subject: | cleaning props (blood and guts) |
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV-List Digest
Server
Subject: RV-List Digest: 40 Msgs - 05/05/04
*
=================================================
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
=================================================
Today's complete RV-List Digest can be also be found in either
of the two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
formatted in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features
Hyperlinked
Indexes and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII
version of the RV-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic
text editor such as Notepad or with a web browser.
HTML Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list/Digest.RV-List.2004-05-05.html
Text Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list/Digest.RV-List.2004-05-05.txt
===============================================
EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
===============================================
RV-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Wed 05/05/04: 40
Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:40 AM - Re: RV6/A Gross Weight.... (Bob U.)
2. 04:37 AM - Garmin 430 install manual (Dana Overall)
3. 05:15 AM - Re: Troubles contacting S-TEC (Tommy Walker)
4. 05:56 AM - cht probe (G B)
5. 06:09 AM - WxWorx observations (Tim_Lewis(at)msm.umr.edu)
6. 06:39 AM - Re: [SPAM] Garmin 430 install manual (Stewart,
Michael (ISS Atlanta))
7. 07:10 AM - Re: Garmin 430 install manual (LarryRobertHelming)
8. 09:13 AM - Re: RV6/A Gross Weight.... (Rob Prior)
9. 09:24 AM - Re: RV6/A Gross Weight.... (Rob Prior)
10. 10:00 AM - Re: RV6/A Gross Weight.... (Dale Mitchell)
11. 10:25 AM - Re: RV6/A Gross Weight.... (Dj Merrill)
12. 10:26 AM - Prop 4 Sale (Brian Alley)
13. 10:30 AM - Re:nose gear shimmy (Dave Biddle)
14. 11:08 AM - Re: RV6/A Gross Weight.... (Stewart, Michael (ISS
Atlanta))
15. 11:34 AM - Re: RV6/A Gross Weight.... (richard dudley)
16. 11:37 AM - Re: RV6/A Gross Weight.... (Skylor Piper)
17. 11:54 AM - Re: RV6/A Gross Weight.... (Bob U.)
18. 11:54 AM - Info on Chilliwack (Jim and Bev Cone)
19. 12:08 PM - Re: anodizing instrument panel? (Wayne Cahoon @
Aircraft Engravers)
20. 01:14 PM - Re: RV6/A Gross Weight.... (Bob)
21. 02:27 PM - Free shipping on Builder's Bookstore (Aircraft
Technical Book Company)
22. 02:41 PM - Re: Internal Regulated Alternator converted to
External? (Ross Schlotthauer)
23. 03:24 PM - Northern Airborne Tech. (Jim Needham)
24. 04:24 PM - Wing incidence spacer block (Richard Suffoletto)
25. 04:31 PM - SoCal hangar space? (Dave Hyde)
26. 04:39 PM - Re: RV6/A Gross Weight.... (Ed Anderson)
27. 05:48 PM - Re: SoCal hangar space? (Dan Checkoway)
28. 05:50 PM - Re: RV6/A Gross Weight.... (Kevin Horton)
29. 05:53 PM - Re: RV6/A Gross Weight.... (Jim Sears)
30. 06:23 PM - Re: Socal hangar space (Dave Hyde)
31. 06:43 PM - Re: Undercarriage Stiffeners (Ed Anderson)
32. 06:47 PM - Re: RV6/A Gross Weight.... (Jim Oke)
33. 06:54 PM - Re: RV6/A Gross Weight.... (Bob U.)
34. 07:45 PM - anodizing instrument panel? (Bluecavu(at)aol.com)
35. 07:50 PM - blood & guts (Dave Ford)
36. 08:42 PM - Re: RV6/A Gross Weight.... (Vanremog(at)aol.com)
37. 09:03 PM - Re: blood & guts (Michael McGee)
38. 09:44 PM - Re: blood & guts (LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com)
39. 10:13 PM - Re: blood & guts (JusCash(at)aol.com)
Cleaning the prop: I keep my wood Warnke (good ol' Bernie, rest his
soul) prop looking new by keeping a fresh layer of carnauba wax on it
for just general protection and then cleaning even "old" bugs off with
just plain water. I keep a squirt bottle of water handy and as soon as I
roll the old girl into the hanger, clean the prop. Takes about a minute
and the bugs slide right off. The prop (and airplane, by the way) has
over 750 hours on it and looks great. Someone asked me the other day if
this was a new prop. Nope; just take care of the one I have.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV6/A Gross Weight.... |
Kevin,
Excellent explanation!
I get the feeling that some people assume that because
you must reduce maneuvering speed with decreased
weight, you then also increase it when increasing
weight, even when going over design gross. Your case
2 explains why that's not true.
In my previous post, I forgot to mention regarding
this quote:
"With more weight the airplane will not as easily
change the angle of attack."
This is false. A heavier plane will not as easily
change DIRECTION, but in fact will change angle of
attack easier than a light plane. For example, when
flying in turbulence a lighter plane will respond
(accelerate) faster to changing forces, hence when the
angle of attack changes for vertical gusts, the
lighter plane will respond faster to that change &
actually have a reduced angle of attack when compared
to a heavier plane. This phenomenon is well explained
in "Stick and Rudder".
--- Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I believe that the 6 wing was determined to suffer
> permanent deformation at
> 11g when rated at 1600 gross, that's 9.26g at 1900
> lbs gross. I can live with
> that. You just have to ask yourself whether you
> really believe that your wing
> is built as strong as a 6.
>
One thing that's not being considered here is the
effect on fatigue life that repeated operation over
Van's design loads has. Aluminum structures' fatigue
life reduces drastically as cyclic stresses increase
towards the ultimate strength of that structure.
While your wings may tolerate greater loads than Van
intended, they may only tolerate them for 1500 hours
instead of 100,000.
This has become a very real problem for the T-34's
that have been used in Air Combat "training". While
they are not necessarily being operated over gross,
some have been known to be repeatedly stressed beyond
6 g's. Then, one day the wings decide to fall off at
5 g's.
Skylor
--- Kevin Horton wrote:
>
>
> You are both right, depending on the details of the
> design. It
> depends on what part of the structure is limiting.
> I.e. which part
> will be the first to fail if you put too much load
> on it.
>
> Case 1 - the limiting structure sees the same loads
> no matter what
> the gross weight is, like an engine mount. If the
> strength of the
> engine mount is what caused the designer to
> recommend a certain g
> limit, then the loads on the mount will not change
> will gross weight
> (assuming the weight of the engine and prop is
> constant). In this
> case the manoeuvring speed will go up with gross
> weight.
>
> Case 2 - the limiting structure sees loads that vary
> with gross
> weight, like a wing spar. In this case the
> structure has been
> designed to see a certain load, e.g. 6 g at 1375 lb
> gross weight -
> the wing is designed to support a load of 8,250 lb.
> The manoeuvring
> speed is the speed at which the wing can produce
> 8,250 lb of lift at
> the stall (actually, the wing has to do a bit more
> than that, as it
> also has to counter the downwards lift of the tail,
> but we'll ignore
> that for simplicity). If you put some more sandbags
> in the baggage
> compartment to get up to 1800 lb gross weight, the
> wing is no
> stronger than it was before, and it can still only
> handle 8,250 lb of
> lift. Now the g-limit has to be 8,250/1,800 = 4.58
> g. The
> manoeurving speed is still the speed at which the
> wing can develop
> 8,250 lb of lift at the stall - in other words it is
> the same speed
> as it was at 1,375 lb gross weight.
>
> Usually we don't know whether we are dealing with
> Case 1 or Case 2,
> so we have to assume that they both may be valid.
> So, we should keep
> the manoeuvring speed the same if we increase gross
> weight (to cover
> Case 2), and we need to reduce manouvring speed if
> we reduce gross
> weight (to cover Case 1, by ensuring the available
> load factor does
> not increase above the allowable limit).
>
> From a structural point of the view it is actually
> a bit more
> complicated than I have described, as it does matter
> where on the
> airframe you put the extra weight. Extra weight in
> the fuselage is
> much worse than extra weight in the wings, as the
> wing bending moment
> is much more affected by fuselage weight increases
> than wing weight
> increases. Picture a long span modern glider. If
> you put a bunch of
> extra weight in the fuselage, you put a lot of extra
> load on the wing
> spar. But if you distribute the same amount of
> additional weight
> evenly along the wing span, then the loads on the
> wing spar increase
> only a little, or maybe not at all.
>
> Clear as mud?
> --
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
__________________________________
http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/careermakeover
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: blood & guts |
In a message dated 5/6/04 7:30:04 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
grobertson(at)verizon.net writes:
<< Simple Green, applied concentrated, removes EVERYTHING except paint.
Removes tar, bugs, grease and oil, brake pad dust from the wheels, etc. Spray
or
wipe on, leave 2-3 minutes, and rub off.
Also removes polish, so remember to rewax afterwards. >>
I am a big fan of Simple Green for cleaning of all the above mentioned stuff,
definitely including wax and polish, but it seems there is some evidence
(anecdotal maybe) that Simple Green can lead to corrosion if allowed to remain
on
or under surfaces so I always rinse it off thoroughly with running water.
Just my $0.02.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, final assembly
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | What would your perfect EHSI look like? |
Hello listers,
Have you ever thought that, given the chance, you could design avionics better
than what is presently available. Well heres your chance! We are in the very
early stages of defining our future EHSI product. Our only constraint is that
it is the same physical format as our current EFIS-D10 with regards to display
and user interface. While we certainly have our own ideas of what will make
a great instrument, we would really like to have yours as well. So .
What features does it have to have to be a useful addition to your panel?
What features would be nice additions?
What display formats do you want to see available? 60 degree arc? 360 degrees?
Others?
What does it have to interface with? GPS only? NAV radios? Marker Beacons?
Would the HSI display be a good place to include an autopilot interface or would
you prefer a dedicated autopilot head?
Were not making any promises that well design the instrument of your personal dreams,
but without your input, we most likely wont make your perfect instrument.
So dream away, warm up your keyboard, and send us an email. My direct email
address here at Dynon is doug.medema(at)dynonavionics.com.
Thanks for your interest.
Doug Medema
Dynon Avionics
RV-6A N276DM
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Don Mack" <don(at)dmack.net> |
Subject: | RE: Simplegreen - was blood & guts |
FYI - From the simplegreen website Faqs:
Aluminum - Is it safe to use Simple Green on aluminum?
Simple Green products have been successfully and safely used on aircraft,
automotive, industrial and consumer aluminum items for over 20 years.
However, caution and common sense must be used: Aluminum is a soft metal
that easily corrodes with unprotected exposure to water. The aqueous-base
and alkalinity of Simple Green or Crystal Simple Green can accelerate the
corrosion process. Therefore, contact times of All-Purpose Simple Green and
Crystal Simple Green with unprotected or unpainted aluminum surfaces should
be kept as brief as the job will allow - never for more than 10 minutes.
Large cleaning jobs should be conducted in smaller-area stages to achieve
lower contact time. Rinsing after cleaning should always be extremely
thorough - paying special attention to flush out cracks and crevices to
remove all Simple Green/Crystal Simple Green residues. Unfinished, uncoated
or unpainted aluminum cleaned with Simple Green products should receive some
sort of protectant after cleaning to prevent oxidation.
Remember that you have overlapping and joined skins. How do you get that
stuff out of there?
I use 409 on my fabric and aluminum Ercoupe - If anyone know of a problem
with this stuff let me know.
Don Mack . don(at)dmack.net . www.dmack.net
-----Original Message-----
<< Simple Green, applied concentrated, removes EVERYTHING except paint.
Removes tar, bugs, grease and oil, brake pad dust from the wheels, etc.
Spray or
wipe on, leave 2-3 minutes, and rub off.
Also removes polish, so remember to rewax afterwards. >>
I am a big fan of Simple Green for cleaning of all the above mentioned
stuff,
definitely including wax and polish, but it seems there is some evidence
(anecdotal maybe) that Simple Green can lead to corrosion if allowed to
remain on
or under surfaces so I always rinse it off thoroughly with running water.
Just my $0.02.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ross Scroggs" <rv4ross(at)charter.net> |
Subject: | Re: blood & guts |
David,
You are absolutely correct. Seems like everything that works good has a
bad side as well.
Fresh water and even a mild soap solution, if possible, works great and then
the wax.
Ross Scroggs
RV4 #3911 Wings
Locust Grove, Ga.
----- Original Message -----
From: "David E. Nelson" <david.nelson(at)pobox.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: blood & guts
>
>
> Hi Ross,
>
> Not sure what type of metal(s) are used for metal props, but I was warned
in
> one of my EAA meetings not to use 409 on aluminum (even the MSDS warns
about
> using 409 on the aluminum -
>
http://www.biosci.ohio-state.edu/~jsmith/MSDS/FORMULA%20409%20DEGREASER.htm)since
> it chemically reacts with it. So a _good_ rinsing is required.
>
> Regards,
> /\/elson
> RV-7A - SB wings almost here...
> Austin, TX
>
>
> On Thu, 6 May 2004, Ross Scroggs wrote:
>
> >
> > Dave,
> > On a metal prop, I use 409 or Fantastic and then use fresh water
> > afterwards. When it is dry, put a coat of a good paste wax on both
sides.
> > This will help you clean the bugs off after a flight. I own a Cub with a
wood
> > prop and use the same procedure. Works great!
> >
> > Ross Scroggs
> > RV4 Wings
> > Locust Grove, Ga.
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <JusCash(at)aol.com>
> > To:
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: blood & guts
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: What would your perfect EHSI look like? |
Large screen, sunlight readable, even when reflecting off your white shirt.
360 Deg EFIS arc (sic)
built-in GPS with WAAS (receivers are cheap enough now to build right into just
about any device)
BlueTooth for up/dowloading data/patches/features maybe for even attaching
input devices (keyboard/mouse/phone for weather graphics?)
Terrain
Weather
Flight and Engine instruments
all for under $500 :-)
dmedema(at)att.net wrote:
Hello listers,
Have you ever thought that, given the chance, you could design avionics better
than what is presently available. Well heres your chance! We are in the very early
stages of defining our future EHSI product. Our only constraint is that it
is the same physical format as our current EFIS-D10 with regards to display
and user interface. While we certainly have our own ideas of what will make a
great instrument, we would really like to have yours as well. So .
What features does it have to have to be a useful addition to your panel?
What features would be nice additions?
What display formats do you want to see available? 60 degree arc? 360 degrees?
Others?
What does it have to interface with? GPS only? NAV radios? Marker Beacons?
Would the HSI display be a good place to include an autopilot interface or would
you prefer a dedicated autopilot head?
Were not making any promises that well design the instrument of your personal dreams,
but without your input, we most likely wont make your perfect instrument.
So dream away, warm up your keyboard, and send us an email. My direct email
address here at Dynon is doug.medema(at)dynonavionics.com.
Thanks for your interest.
Doug Medema
Dynon Avionics
RV-6A N276DM
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jamesbaldwin(at)attglobal.net |
Subject: | Lycoming drawings |
Lycoming users-
I had asked the EAA if there were any accesible drawings of the Lycoming
series of enigines but was told they had none of any type, either actual
factory produced or "aftermarket." I was told "copyright, blah, blah."
Does anyone have any cross section or other drawings showing the
internals? Thank you. JBB
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jeff Cours <rv-j(at)moriarti.org> |
Subject: | Re: What would your perfect EHSI look like? |
> What features does it have to have to be a useful addition to your panel?
I don't know if the Dynon already has this, since I'm not currently
flying behind one, but I'd like something that keeps track of winds
aloft (direction and speed) as I climb and suggests a good VFR cruising
altitude, adjusting for even or odd altitudes as appropriate, based on
what my intended heading seems to be.
Other nifty features, some that require more horsepower than others:
- Give me a warning, like a change in background color, if I'm flying
the wrong magnetic heading at the wrong altitude.
- A single button press that sets heading and altitude bugs to the
current heading and altitude would be handy. If it can send that info to
an autopilot or two, so much the better.
- I'd really like a one-button count-up timer for IFR approaches. The
timer always counts up. The button just resets it to zero -- in fact,
that's ALL it does. No presets for countdown. No starting and stopping.
No alarms. Just dead-simple count-up-once-a-second and punch to zero,
like a trip odometer on a car. (I used to use a kitchen timer. The
button would start and stop it. In a bouncy airplane, I could never tell
whether I'd hit it once or twice. Since I'm occasionally foolish, I tend
to favor fool-resistant features. :-) ).
- Press-to-reset: two (hardware) buttons that must be pushed
simultaneously to have any effect. When you punch them both at the same
time, they trigger an NMI, toggle the reset pin on the processor, or
interrupt the power supply, forcing a system reset. Ideally, they should
be at opposite ends of the faceplate to minimize the chances of bumping
them both accidentally.
- Instant Pirep: select an option and get summary information in the
right order and format to make a pirep. If there's a map in the memory,
suggest a frequency, too.
- If the system can do mapping, I'd like a 3D out-the-cockpit view that
shows controlled airspace (classes B-D, MOAs, Restricted areas, etc.) as
translucent, color-coded walls or wire-frame grids. Adjusting the
airspace based on time of day, so it knows about airports that become
class E at 21:00 local, or airspace that changes status at sunset, would
be a very nifty trick.
- Support an industry standard bus, pin-out, and data protocol for
talking to other manufacturers' boxes. Ok, I know, this is the hardest
of the bunch. But a guy can dream, right?
Jeff C.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Garry Legare <versadek(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Terra TRT 250 D Xponder and TX 760 D Comm For Sale |
I'm redoing the panel on my 6 soooo the Terra has got to go. The
transponder just passed a check about 2 months ago, and works great.
Which is more than I can say for the Comm.
The Comm transmits and receives great, but the digital display is
intermittent. It will work for weeks at a time then decide it doesn't
want to display anything for a day or two.
Not my idea of fun.
Both are about 3 years old and complete with trays and manuals.
pay the freight.
Please respond off list.
Casper
Having sooo much fun rewiring.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "George P. Tyler" <gptyler(at)metrocast.net> |
Subject: | Re: blood & guts |
I use "Fantastic", with very good results for bugs on both the prop wood and
the leading edge of the wing. 226DG
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gordon Robertson" <grobertson(at)verizon.net>
Subject: RV-List: blood & guts
>
> >>Surely there must be a simple solution for cleaning bug blood & guts
from
> the propellor--anybody>>have a good recipe?
>
>
> I have never tried this on an airplane, but I find that on my cars Simple
> Green, applied concentrated, removes EVERYTHING except paint. Removes
tar,
> bugs, grease and oil, brake pad dust from the wheels, etc. Spray or wipe
> on, leave 2-3 minutes, and rub off.
>
> Also removes polish, so remember to rewax afterwards.
>
> Gordon Robertson
> RV8
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "ed " <ed_88(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: What would your perfect EHSI look like? |
I don't know how much this applies to the product you are designing, but a
feature I would love to have in any form of electronic avionics would be the
ability to get real time data from it. Basically I would like to use it as a
datasource to drive a laptop with some custom software on it. This way I
could always write my own features when I had a specific desire, but I would
still have a "real" device to fall back on should my code not work :)
I don't know if anyone has mentioned this yet, but if you had some kind of
traffic display in your EHSI, that would also be a great too.
>From: Jeff Cours <rv-j(at)moriarti.org>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: What would your perfect EHSI look like?
>Date: Thu, 06 May 2004 13:52:49 -0700
>
>
>- Support an industry standard bus, pin-out, and data protocol for
>talking to other manufacturers' boxes. Ok, I know, this is the hardest
>of the bunch. But a guy can dream, right?
>
it's FREE! http://messenger.msn.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Garry Legare <versadek(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Terra TRT 250 D Xponder and TX 760 D Comm For Sale |
For some reason the post was missing the first part of the line that
ended with; pay the freight. It was supposed to say; Best offer by next
friday and I'll pay the freight. Sorry for the confusion.
Casper
Garry Legare wrote:
>
>I'm redoing the panel on my 6 soooo the Terra has got to go. The
>transponder just passed a check about 2 months ago, and works great.
>Which is more than I can say for the Comm.
>The Comm transmits and receives great, but the digital display is
>intermittent. It will work for weeks at a time then decide it doesn't
>want to display anything for a day or two.
>Not my idea of fun.
>Both are about 3 years old and complete with trays and manuals.
>pay the freight.
>Please respond off list.
>Casper
>Having sooo much fun rewiring.
>
>
>
>
Garry Legare wrote:
>
>I'm redoing the panel on my 6 soooo the Terra has got to go. The
>transponder just passed a check about 2 months ago, and works great.
>Which is more than I can say for the Comm.
>The Comm transmits and receives great, but the digital display is
>intermittent. It will work for weeks at a time then decide it doesn't
>want to display anything for a day or two.
>Not my idea of fun.
>Both are about 3 years old and complete with trays and manuals.
>pay the freight.
>Please respond off list.
>Casper
>Having sooo much fun rewiring.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu> |
Subject: | Re: What would your perfect EHSI look like? |
Fiveonepw(at)aol.com wrote:
> I mailed Doug with a request for a moving map / nav instrument on the same
> display as the D10. Anybody else?
Actually, yes! :-)
-Dj
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com> |
A good recipe for the bug guts or a good recipe for something to remove
them?
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dave Ford
Subject: RV-List: blood & guts
Surely there must be a simple solution for cleaning bug blood & guts from
the propellor--anybody have a good recipe?
Dave Ford
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robin Wessel" <robin.wessel(at)verizon.net> |
Subject: | Re: What would your perfect EHSI look like? |
Doug-
Thanks for asking for input.
I am building an RV-10 and it is fun watching the EFIS technologies mature
and develop. The missing link with your system in my opinion is the lack of
a DG/HSI to complement your D-10.
Must haves:
LOC/HSI inputs (+/- 150 mV)
LOC/HSI Flag input
ARC and HSI display with mag heading and course select
OBS select with that outputs either XYZ or ARINC 429 to a Garmin 430 or
CNX80
Heading bug
NMEA data repeater (capable of displaying GPS bearing, distance, dtk, trk,
spd, etc)
Can slave off of existing existing mag sensor
VERY Nice to haves:
Accepts Argus serial aviation-in or NMEA to slave current flight plan from
external GPS (functions like most MFD's or handheld slaved by a panel mount)
Displays course, waypoints, and database symbols with zoom like the King 825
EHSI
Electronic display of NAV source
Uses GPS data to crosscheck the attitude solution
Displays wind vector
Can act as backup for D10
Can display advanced course data such as DME arcs, holds, etc.
Nice to haves:
Outputs airdata to GPS
Terrain / map overlay
Encoder knob instead of one button for better usability
Heading bug can drive an autopilot
Adds flight director functionality to D10
Optional built-in GPS
Back course
Marker beacon inputs
Since vendors like Garmin have spent millions on developing GPS user
interfaces and have IFR certs, my preference would be for a EHSI to act
solely as a slave device and not have any flight planning functions to
complicate the core functions.
Price I would be willing to strongly consider: $2,500
Thanks,
Robin Wessel
Tigard, OR
RV-10 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ron Walker" <ron(at)walker.net> |
Subject: | Re: blood & guts |
> I have never tried this on an airplane, but I find that on my cars Simple
> Green, applied concentrated, removes EVERYTHING except paint. Removes
tar,
> bugs, grease and oil, brake pad dust from the wheels, etc. Spray or wipe
> on, leave 2-3 minutes, and rub off.
>
> Also removes polish, so remember to rewax afterwards.
>
> Gordon Robertson
> RV8
The "Simple Green" solution has already made the rounds on several other
aviation lists - like the Grumman Gang. While it most likely WILL remove the
bugs, it MAY also remove the metal! Word is, Simple Green reacts in a very
nasty way to corrode the aluminum. I've not experienced this first hand, but
there were loads of testimonials as well as a directive by the air
force/navy to not use this product on their aircraft (can't find the direct
quote). "Simple Green" itself does have comments on these issues on their
web site - http://www.simplegreen.com/faq.html check "aircraft" and
"aluminum".
Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dave Durakovich <ddurakovich(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: blood & guts |
Lemon Pledge, either spray or aerosol. Have used it on my Cherokee for years. And
makes them easier to get them off the next time!
Not to mention that it leaves your plane "Lemony Fresh"
Dave Durakovich
RV-4
> In a message dated 5/5/2004 7:51:14 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> dford(at)michweb.net writes:
>
> Surely there must be a simple solution for cleaning bug blood & guts from
the
> propellor--anybody have a good recipe?
>
> Dave Ford
> RV6
>
>
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Undercarriage Stiffeners |
It is my impression that the wood attached to the gear legs is more of a
DAMPENER than a stiffener. If that is the case, it would reduce the stress on
the
gear leg by not letting it build up energy. The resultant amplitude would
then be less than it would be without the dampeners.
I'm still following this thread trying to decide what to do.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (getting close to final assembly)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Christopher Stone <rv8iator(at)earthlink.net> |
Dear Dynon,
With regard to your request for input for a new EFIS...
Reliability, reliability, reliability. All the features, bells and whistles are
of no use if they don't work. A POwerupSelfTest that would display (in conversational
English) any system anomalies or discrepancies since the previous power
up.
That being said...
CDI/GS overlay with input from GPS, Vor/Loc/Glideslope receiver, and Marker Beacon
display.
Thanks for giving your customers a chance to provide design input.
Chris Stone
Design Engineer
A-DEC
Newberg, Oregon
www.a-dec.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
Subject: | Re: What would your perfect EHSI look like? |
Doug,
I would like a system that is simple. Few if any more "front end" features
than a steam gauge HSI.
As for the features embedded in the system to talk with other equipment, I
am not an avionics engineer, but it looks like you have some good equipment
interface comments here from others.
Airplanes are becoming too "feature rich" I fly with too many pilots who
make flying more difficult, not simpler, by trying to use the "features" in
all the magic they paid good money for.
This is a serious problem in our industry. The FAA has just announced a
rewrite of the Inst. Rating Practical Test Standards to address this, but
the FAA is still concerned as are the airframe manufacturers.
All the features that are available can add utility to an airplane, but the
problem is, they add workload too. Many IFR pleasure pilots that I see are
marginally current at best. For this crowd, they should be turning the toys
off when they fly IFR, not looking for more "features" to fiddle with. You
cannot install experience in the panel.
The VFR folks have no need for most of the toys they have and spend time
fiddling with them when they should be looking outside.
Sorry folks, but I get to fly in lots of airplanes with lots of pilots and
this is a widespread problem.
I vote for a simple system that works well and has a fair price like the
D-10.
Standing by with my asbestos underwear ;-)
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
RV-4 with too many toys.....
----- Original Message -----
From: <dmedema(at)att.net>
Subject: RV-List: What would your perfect EHSI look like?
>
> Hello listers,
>
> Have you ever thought that, given the chance, you could design avionics
better than what is presently available. Well heres your chance! We are in
the very early stages of defining our future EHSI product. Our only
constraint is that it is the same physical format as our current EFIS-D10
with regards to display and user interface. While we certainly have our own
ideas of what will make a great instrument, we would really like to have
yours as well. So .
>
> What features does it have to have to be a useful addition to your panel?
> What features would be nice additions?
> What display formats do you want to see available? 60 degree arc? 360
degrees? Others?
> What does it have to interface with? GPS only? NAV radios? Marker
Beacons?
> Would the HSI display be a good place to include an autopilot interface or
would you prefer a dedicated autopilot head?
>
> Were not making any promises that well design the instrument of your
personal dreams, but without your input, we most likely wont make your
perfect instrument. So dream away, warm up your keyboard, and send us an
email. My direct email address here at Dynon is
doug.medema(at)dynonavionics.com.
>
> Thanks for your interest.
>
> Doug Medema
> Dynon Avionics
> RV-6A N276DM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Redimpling heavy gauge aluminum |
From: | "Bruce Anthony" <bruce.anthony(at)holidaycompanies.com> |
So I made the mistake of watching TV and dimpling my elevator trim tab spar at
the same time and dimpled the flange the wrong direction. When I redimpled it
the right direction I heard a little ping as the metal went from flat to dimpled.
This I believe was the sound of cracks forming circumferentially on the
raised dimple. The cracks were only noticeable under a magnifying glass. It
didn't take too much poking with a tool to get the dimple to fail completely.
Van's said that redimpling is safe if no cracks form, and I noticed in the archive
that others have encountered the same reasonable recommendation. However,
in the case of the heavier gauge pieces, I recommend examining the metal closely
and then just order a new part like I did.
Bruce Anthony
RV-9A
Finishing the empennage and starting the wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com |
Subject: | Second Com Antenna |
I have one Comat bent whip Com antenna mounted just aft of the battery box (next
to the firewall) in the midline of my RV6A. I have a second Archer wingtip
Com antenna in my right wingtip. The Archer is not performing up to my specifications
and I want to put a second bent whip Comat Com antenna somewhere. My
first choice would be behind the first on the midline of the belly. If I put
it there, how far back do I need to place it? Are there other locations that
would be better? My hanger mate has one on the belly and one on the turtledeck.
I don't particularly like the idea of putting the antenna on the top.
Thanks.
Ross Mickey
N9PT
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Hal / Carol Kempthorne <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV6/A Gross Weight.... |
At 10:21 AM 5/5/2004, you wrote:
>
>Hal / Carol Kempthorne wrote:
>
> >
> > I set mine at 1800 lbs - it is my airplane.
>
> This is not flame bait, I am genuinely curious - how did
>you determine that 1800 lbs is safe as compared to Van's
>recommended gross weight ? Did you change anything in the
>airplane structure or do additional testing?
Van hisself said so. I suppose I should have tested it to be sure that the
wings don't snap off but I haven't got to that yet.
What would testing consist of? Load to 1800 and pull 4.3 (?) G's to see if
wings fall off. If they do, set GW lower and retest.
Load to 1800 and land. If gear collapses, etc
Seriously, how would you determine what is safe? How did Van do it? Or is
gross weight more of a legal term?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David E. Nelson" <david.nelson(at)pobox.com> |
Subject: | Re: blood & guts |
Lemon Pledge works great on leather, also. I had a custom saddle made for my
touring motorcycle and the gentleman/craftsman specifically recommended Lemon
Pledge.
/\/elson
On Fri, 7 May 2004, Dave Durakovich wrote:
>
> Lemon Pledge, either spray or aerosol. Have used it on my Cherokee for years.
> And makes them easier to get them off the next time!
>
> Not to mention that it leaves your plane "Lemony Fresh"
>
> Dave Durakovich
> RV-4
--
~~ ** ~~ If you didn't learn anything when you broke it the 1st ~~ ** ~~
time, then break it again.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)excelgeo.com> |
Subject: | Electronic Ignition Miss - Conclusion |
First of all I would like to thank everyone that tried to help us out
while away from home. Thanks, what a great bunch of people. Now the story.
It all started on a tiny island 600nm SE of Florida. Grand Turk island
(MBGT) for those that wish to find it on a map. One of the RV's was
giving a ride to the local Dive Master when the LASAR ignition light
started blinking. Subsequent ground checks proved that the right mag was
dead. A quick phone call to Unison and new mags were on their way to
KFPR in Florida. His wallet was also quite a bit lighter.
Since RVers are safety oriented folks a two ship flight (safety in
numbers) was dispatched on Saturday morning to retrieve the parts from
KFPR. All went well and after refueling, getting the parts and a little
breakfast we headed back over the turquoise waters to the islands. On
climb-out somewhere around 3000' the engine in 99PZ started missing and
generally running rough. Since we were not to far out I radioed the lead
ship that two was headed back and we both made the turn and landed
without incident.
I pulled the cowl, checked the plugs, checked all the connections
including plug wires and found nothing out of the ordinary. A 25 Square
ground run went well so we re-cowled the plane and again headed for the
islands. We made it a little further the second time. Running down the
coast of Florida and after ICAO flight plans were opened 99PZ started
missing again. I guess PZ was determined to stay over land. A quick
check again proved it was the EI side and not fuel or carb ice. Turning
off the mag would cause the engine to run real rough and pop and
sputter. My wifes eyes were as big as oranges by this time. I turned off
the EI and returned to KFPR again without any further incident. Lead
decided to keep going with the parts to fix the original plane.
We borrowed the local courtesy car and ran down to NAPA and bought 4 new
plugs for the EI side. After installing the plugs I started the engine
and now the EI side would not work at all. At least now it was a hard
failure and not an intermittent one. After checking into a local hotel I
found and internet access terminal with a bad keyboard and sent a plea
out to the RV-List for help. After getting Jeff Rose's number I called
him and discussed my problem. Jeff felt the culprit was the Hall effect
sensor and suggested checking the resistance of the pickup. Another trip
to NAPA and 20 bucks lighter I had their cheapest VOM in hand and
checked the resistance of the sensor. It was good. I started checking
all the connections again and found the red wire on the brain-box end of
the sensor cable was not connected to anything. I pull out my cell phone
and called Jeff and asked him what the red wire was. His reply was
"Thats the Sense wire". I had found my problem, or so I hoped. I
rummaged up a #22 butt splice (radio shack brand) and repaired the red
wire. Another ground run and the EI side now worked. The next test was t
see if it would work in flight.
We strapped ourselves in and took off. All systems reported normal so we
pointed the nose towards KCTY and points beyond and 9.5 hours of flying
later (two fuel stops) we arrived back home in Denver without the EI
ever missing a beat.
Gary Zilik
RV-6A N99PZ
--
Gary Zilik, Sr. Geophysicist
Excel Geophysical Services, Inc. Email: zilik(at)excelgeo.com
5690 DTC Boulevard, Suite 330W Phone: (303) 694-9629
Greenwood Village, CO 80111 Fax: (303) 771-1646
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: What would your perfect EHSI look like? |
Doug,
First, I commend you on your request for input from the pilot/builder
community - I would like to see the same approach to designing avionics from
every company!
Many have requested lots of features, and they are all good ideas. I would
like to suggest going the other direction - having a very simple and cheap
alternative to todays (yesterdays?) gyros:
A simple stand-alone digital DG. a simple stand-alone AI, a simple digital
stand alone TC.
All with the same user interface we are used to (on an LCD panel though),
but much higher reliablity, lower price ($400 a peice? is that feasable?),
while smaller behind the panel, much lighter - that is exactly what we could
all use.
If you are looking into something less "conservative", then why not go
all-out radical, and try something completely new. how about a real time V-N
diagram? I'll send you a drawing of what I have in mind seperately (can't
send attachements to the list).
My thoughts.
Amit.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com wrote:
>
>
>I have one Comat bent whip Com antenna mounted just aft of the battery box (next
to the firewall) in the midline of my RV6A. I have a second Archer wingtip
Com antenna in my right wingtip. The Archer is not performing up to my specifications
and I want to put a second bent whip Comat Com antenna somewhere. My
first choice would be behind the first on the midline of the belly. If I put
it there, how far back do I need to place it? Are there other locations that
would be better? My hanger mate has one on the belly and one on the turtledeck.
I don't particularly like the idea of putting the antenna on the top.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Ross Mickey
>N9PT
>
>
>
Ross on my RV-6 I have to com antennas mounted right in front of the
wing spar on each side of the cabin. I realize
you have the gear structure in this area but that location works very
well for me. I also have the transponder antenna
mounted in between the two com antennas.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Undercarriage Stiffeners |
Hopperdhh(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>It is my impression that the wood attached to the gear legs is more of a
>DAMPENER than a stiffener. If that is the case, it would reduce the stress on
the
>gear leg by not letting it build up energy. The resultant amplitude would
>then be less than it would be without the dampeners.
>
>I'm still following this thread trying to decide what to do.
>
>Dan Hopper
>RV-7A (getting close to final assembly)
>
>
>
Can't decide for you, but in my experience having several hundred hours
without them and then
installing them, I am much happier with them ON my RV-6.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | What would your perfect EHSI look like? |
From: | "Bartrim, Todd" <Steve.Bartrim(at)canfor.com> |
There has been a few great suggestions already, but the GPS question brings
up an opportunity. An interface with any of the existing products is likely
the best (cheapest) solution, however if the plan is to have it's own internal
GPS, then I'd like to suggest looking into the Russian GLONASS system. Use
of both GPS & GLONASS with position calculated from averaging the signals or
selecting the stronger signal(s) would provide greater accuracy and redundancy
in case of system failure.
I asked on the list about GLONASS a few years ago, but most of the replies
that I received claimed that it was not a serviceable system due to system
maintenance neglect, so I researched it a little further and found that on the
contrary, the Ruskies had just put up 2 new birds to replace aging satts. They
continue to have 24 satts in orbit just like the US GPS system. Unfortunately
most of the info I found was written in Russian.
Another one to consider, since any new product that you may be considering
developing is likely several years away, would be the proposed European Galileao
system due to become operational in 2008. This will be a commercial system
(versus military), with 3 meter accuracy for free and 3mm accuracy for a fee
(?? I know, I find this hard to believe too).
This is likely more than you'd like to consider for your proposed instrument,
but you asked and I'd love to see it.
S. Todd Bartrim
Turbo 13B
RX-9endurance
C-FSTB
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
"Imagination is more important than knowledge"
-Albert Einstein
> -----Original Message-----
> From: dmedema(at)att.net [SMTP:dmedema(at)att.net]
> Sent: Thursday, May 06, 2004 10:37 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: What would your perfect EHSI look like?
>
>
> Hello listers,
>
> Have you ever thought that, given the chance, you could design avionics better
than what is presently available. Well heres your chance! We are in the very
early stages of defining our future EHSI product. Our only constraint is that
it is the same physical format as our current EFIS-D10 with regards to display
and user interface. While we certainly have our own ideas of what will make
a great instrument, we would really like to have yours as well. So .
>
> What features does it have to have to be a useful addition to your panel?
> What features would be nice additions?
> What display formats do you want to see available? 60 degree arc? 360 degrees?
Others?
> What does it have to interface with? GPS only? NAV radios? Marker Beacons?
> Would the HSI display be a good place to include an autopilot interface or would
you prefer a dedicated autopilot head?
>
> Were not making any promises that well design the instrument of your personal
dreams, but without your input, we most likely wont make your perfect instrument.
So dream away, warm up your keyboard, and send us an email. My direct email
address here at Dynon is doug.medema(at)dynonavionics.com.
>
> Thanks for your interest.
>
> Doug Medema
> Dynon Avionics
> RV-6A N276DM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tracy Crook" <lors01(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Terra TRT 250 D Xponder and TX 760 D Comm For Sale |
Just a hint for you or whoever buys the Terra stuff. To fix an interrmittent display,
try spraying the display driver chips (near display) with Corrosion X.
Plasma displays use a relatively high voltage which leaks all over the board
(which Terra in their infinite wisdom did not conformal coat) in humid conditions.
Tracy Crook (experienced flakey Terra display user)
----- Original Message -----
From: Garry Legare
Subject: RV-List: Terra TRT 250 D Xponder and TX 760 D Comm For Sale
I'm redoing the panel on my 6 soooo the Terra has got to go. The
transponder just passed a check about 2 months ago, and works great.
Which is more than I can say for the Comm.
The Comm transmits and receives great, but the digital display is
intermittent. It will work for weeks at a time then decide it doesn't
want to display anything for a day or two.
Not my idea of fun.
Both are about 3 years old and complete with trays and manuals.
pay the freight.
Please respond off list.
Casper
Having sooo much fun rewiring.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | PeterHunt1(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Help with tachometer pickup |
rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com.pts.rule.name.description.----.----------------------.--------------------------------------------------
After installing my SD20 alternator on the vacuum pad of my 0-360-A1A, I find
there isn't sufficient clearance for Van's tachometer transducer to screw
onto the tachometer outlet on the back of my engine. I built my all electric
panel around my SD20, so it will stay. Would someone help me understand my other
tachometer pickup options? Thanks.
Pete
Clearwater, FL
RV-6, installing the engine
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Nolan" <jamespnolan(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Gear leg Stiffners |
Listers,
I've read the comments about Gear Leg Stiffeners with interest. My RV4
doesn't have stiffeners and I wouldn't put them on, here's why.
Once I landed at Rochester to have breakfast at a restaurant called
Karen's. Now, to get to this restaurant you have to taxi over a neatly mowed
field. While I was taxing, my left wheel dropped into a gopher hole, The
airplane made an immediate left turn, 180 degrees. I figure the only thing
that saved my gear and motor mount, was the Whitman gear. If it had been
stiff, I probley would have had to replace more than just the wheelpant.
I realize that this could only happen to me, but for those with luck
like mine, here's another way to look at gear stiffeners.
Jim Nolan
N444JN
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
Subject: | Two weeks till Twin Cities RV Fly-In |
Fellow Listers:
Two weeks and counting to the 10th Annual Twin Cities Rv Fly-In (Anoka, MN).
We need hundreds and hundreds of RVs to honor us with their attendance!!
Lots of great doin's lined up:
1. RV Formation guru Stu McCurdy will talk on formation flying.
2. Painting seminar by Valspar Paints Inc.
3. Larry Vetterman will be there (worth the trip in itself!!!)
4. Bruce Reynolds from Van's Aircraft
5. Best RV award plus other RV related give-always and door prizes!!!!!!
AND.... Discover Aviation Days going on all around us. For details, head to
our website:
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~rvflyin/
Questions?? email me off list.
Doug Weiler
pres, MN Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
Subject: | Help with tachometer pickup |
Peter,
What we did on our RV6 is to attach a short cable from the engine to the
pickup. The pickup is mounted on a "shelf" that also holds the GPS antenna
just under the cowl. Seems to work just fine.
I think I got the cable from the "Aviation" department of some place like
NAPA/AutoZone.
Email me if there are additional questions.
James
p.s. Since you are "all electric", do you have an EFIS or electronic engine
monitor along with Electronic Ignition? Many of these combinations allow for
RPM to be determined from counting pulses on the EI.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> PeterHunt1(at)aol.com
> Sent: Friday, May 07, 2004 6:22 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com;
> rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com.pts.rule.name.description.----.------------
> ----------.--------------------------------------------------
> Subject: RV-List: Help with tachometer pickup
>
>
> After installing my SD20 alternator on the vacuum pad of my
> 0-360-A1A, I find
> there isn't sufficient clearance for Van's tachometer transducer to screw
> onto the tachometer outlet on the back of my engine. I built my
> all electric
> panel around my SD20, so it will stay. Would someone help me
> understand my other
> tachometer pickup options? Thanks.
>
> Pete
> Clearwater, FL
> RV-6, installing the engine
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "jan" <lydiaxa(at)pobox.sk> |
Subject: | stick it in a cute blonde tonight! 15 |
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "jan" <lydiaxa(at)pobox.sk> |
Subject: | stick it in a cute blonde tonight! 15 |
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "jan" <lydiaxa(at)pobox.sk> |
Subject: | stick it in a cute blonde tonight! 15 |
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
Subject: | Re: Undercarriage Stiffeners |
I have not flown my plane yet, but I have installed the landing leg gear
dampeners/stiffeners in less than 6 hours total time over a couple days
(waiting for epoxy to cure) and the cost is less than $20. However, it does
require some fairly precise angled wood cutting/filing or you can order the
ready cut wood, a set for both legs for $40. It is in the archives. I like
to call mine dampeners since I am sure the steel is strong and does not need
stiffening. The other thing I like about them is they hold and position
your gear leg fairings perfectly -- whether taxing or flying at 190 mph.
So, it is important to align them carefully with airflow line when you epoxy
the dampeners on the gear leg. The fairings fit around the dampeners like a
glove.
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Springer" <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Undercarriage Stiffeners
>
> Hopperdhh(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> >
> >It is my impression that the wood attached to the gear legs is more of a
> >DAMPENER than a stiffener. If that is the case, it would reduce the
stress on the
> >gear leg by not letting it build up energy. The resultant amplitude
would
> >then be less than it would be without the dampeners.
> >
> >I'm still following this thread trying to decide what to do.
> >
> >Dan Hopper
> >RV-7A (getting close to final assembly)
> >
> >
> >
> Can't decide for you, but in my experience having several hundred hours
> without them and then
> installing them, I am much happier with them ON my RV-6.
>
> Jerry
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ted Hultzapple" <thultzap(at)rochester.rr.com> |
I'm thinking of installing a "swiss" style muffler and am wondering if
anyone has any ideas or pictures of installations that would help,
particularly the isolation hangers. I did see the bit in the RVator about
noise measuring in Switzerland by Arnold Aebischer. Does anyone know if
Arnold has an email address?
Thanks,
Ted
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Brian Alley <n320wt(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Wood prop 4 sale |
Brand new Felix prop for sale. This prop is 68DX71P
with urethane leading edge protection and fits an 0320
with 3/8" prop bolts. I've reduced my asking price to
$600. Contact me by email or call me at 304-872-7938
shop, 304-562-6800 home for more information.
====
BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
304-872-7938 shop
304-562-6800 home
How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Finn Lassen <finn.lassen(at)verizon.net> |
Subject: | Re: What would your perfect EHSI look like? |
I think you'll find that the most expensive part in such instruments
wold be the solid state gyro (rate sensors and accelerometers).
Once you have that unit it doesn't make economical sense to limit it's
use to only an AI or DG. However, you could use that unit to feed simple
AI and DG heads. (Actually the DG would also need a magnometer for
longer term stability.)
Finn
Amit Dagan wrote:
>
>Doug,
>First, I commend you on your request for input from the pilot/builder
>community - I would like to see the same approach to designing avionics from
>every company!
>
>Many have requested lots of features, and they are all good ideas. I would
>like to suggest going the other direction - having a very simple and cheap
>alternative to todays (yesterdays?) gyros:
>
>A simple stand-alone digital DG. a simple stand-alone AI, a simple digital
>stand alone TC.
>
>All with the same user interface we are used to (on an LCD panel though),
>but much higher reliablity, lower price ($400 a peice? is that feasable?),
>while smaller behind the panel, much lighter - that is exactly what we could
>all use.
>
>If you are looking into something less "conservative", then why not go
>all-out radical, and try something completely new. how about a real time V-N
>diagram? I'll send you a drawing of what I have in mind seperately (can't
>send attachements to the list).
>
>My thoughts.
>Amit.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "steve blackwell" <n10557(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: blood & guts |
It sound like everyone cleans with this and that --- then re-waxes...?
For 7 years now, at the end of every flying day I clean the leading edges
and prop with .......
WAX!
I clean the belly with wax also.
I teach flying full time in my aircraft and after using mothers, turtle, and
other waxes I found that
RAIN DANCE wax works best as a cleaner and repels dirt, water, dust, bugs...
goes on easy
and looks great.
Thanks for all of the great RV info
RV8 builder (steve blackwell)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Thomas Wimmer <thomas.wimmer(at)web.de> |
Subject: | Re: "swiss muffler" |
Ted Hultzapple schrieb:
>
> I'm thinking of installing a "swiss" style muffler and am wondering if
> anyone has any ideas or pictures of installations that would help,
> particularly the isolation hangers. I did see the bit in the RVator about
> noise measuring in Switzerland by Arnold Aebischer. Does anyone know if
> Arnold has an email address?
Don't know about arnold, but try to contact these two companies, both in
germany, selling mufflers for certified light piston aircraft.
http://www.gomolzig.de/
http://www.hliese.de/
> Thanks,
> Ted
Thomas
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gordon Robertson" <grobertson(at)verizon.net> |
Subject: | Dynon market research |
>>SNIP>>
First, I commend you on your request for input from the pilot/builder
community - I would like to see the same approach to designing avionics from
every company!
Many have requested lots of features, and they are all good ideas. I would
like to suggest going the other direction - having a very simple and cheap
alternative to todays (yesterdays?) gyros:
A simple stand-alone digital DG. a simple stand-alone AI, a simple digital
stand alone TC.
All with the same user interface we are used to (on an LCD panel though),
but much higher reliablity, lower price ($400 a peice? is that feasable?),
while smaller behind the panel, much lighter - that is exactly what we could
all use.
>>END SNIP >>
Totally agree. What I loved about Dynon from the first was the price and
the reliability and absence of vacuum. I strongly suggest that your
marketing niche is just there. Dont try to compete with BlueMountain, Grand
Rapids etc. Stay low cost and you will sell another 1000 units.
Gordon Robertson
RV8 thinking about panel
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
Subject: | Re: blood & guts |
Be careful using "Goof-Off" it's also a pretty good paint remover.
Dave
>
>If it's a metal prop try Goof-Off. It's at Home Depot in the paint
>department. Not sure about a wood prop, caution on the finish.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robin Wessel" <robin.wessel(at)verizon.net> |
Subject: | re: Dynon market research |
Based on Dynon's current product platform costs, they likely need to deliver
about $2,200-$2,500 worth of utility value.
If I were to consider the Dynon solution, I would compare it to the cost of
a mechanical DG and a CDI/OBS. This combo costs about $2,500-$3,000. If they
only delivered an electronic version of a DG and charged $2,200 because
their material cost is about the same, then it is probably not a good value.
I am totally guessing here but my guess is that the mechanicals, and the
display likely make up the bulk of the BOM so a simple electronic DG only
solution that costs $1,000 is unlikely to be a profitable venture. If they
were able to yank out one of their angular rate sensors, a couple of
pressure sensors they would likely not make up for the cost advantages of
volume and development simplification that a common hardware platform
provides. Notice how Garmin reuses their handheld platforms in order to
maximize cost savings.
Robin Wessel
RV-10 wings Tigard, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re:"swiss muffler" |
Bayesian(at)matronics.com, spam(at)matronics.com, probability(at)matronics.com,
is(at)matronics.com, 44(at)matronics.com, to(at)matronics.com
Try Larry Vetterman.
He builds RV exhaust systems and is familiar with the materials and the
planes.
605-745-5932
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
Subject: | re: Dynon market research |
Robin,
I think you are correct.
I spoke with the Dynon people a year ago about a "similar" product and
talked about reducing costs to do such. The basic response was that as you
say the BOM is dominated by things that cannot easily be
removed/replaced/reduced (display etc.)
So my **GUESS** (like you) is that they MUST deliver something for which
they can charge $2000-$2500 and that they can "throw in" additional
functionality to get the "value proposition" up. The key to this value would
be software as opposed to extrea hardware.
Frankly I am amazed that they can hold the price at $2000 for the D10!
Now if they "simply" [ :-) provided the functionality of the
****$12,000-$12,500**** KI825 from Bendix-King for $2000-$2500 , I would
think they might have something. And ... I they might even be able to throw
in a few more features.
[Tried to convince a King person that the 825 could rule the universe if
they took an approach like Dynon ... didn't go over too well.]
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robin Wessel
> Sent: Saturday, May 08, 2004 9:04 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: re: Dynon market research
>
>
> Based on Dynon's current product platform costs, they likely need
> to deliver
> about $2,200-$2,500 worth of utility value.
>
>
> If I were to consider the Dynon solution, I would compare it to
> the cost of
> a mechanical DG and a CDI/OBS. This combo costs about
> $2,500-$3,000. If they
> only delivered an electronic version of a DG and charged $2,200 because
> their material cost is about the same, then it is probably not a
> good value.
>
>
> I am totally guessing here but my guess is that the mechanicals, and the
> display likely make up the bulk of the BOM so a simple electronic DG only
> solution that costs $1,000 is unlikely to be a profitable
> venture. If they
> were able to yank out one of their angular rate sensors, a couple of
> pressure sensors they would likely not make up for the cost advantages of
> volume and development simplification that a common hardware platform
> provides. Notice how Garmin reuses their handheld platforms in order to
> maximize cost savings.
>
>
> Robin Wessel
>
> RV-10 wings Tigard, OR
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | YonderRDC(at)aol.com |
Hi All...To introduce myself---David Ward here......
I have been spying on you all for the last couple of years while preparing to
seriously join the fray. Two years worth of planning, saving, and educating
myself. You all have been a big part of that last one. Thanks for all the
insight and education! I am currently in the permit application process to build
a new shop in which to build my RV-8....God willing (and the County permit
folks), I should have the shop completed by the 4th of July or so. A trip to
Vans is planned for June (in concert with Scappose I suspect)...to pick up an
empennage kit.
That said....I though you might lend your expertise as I draw up my wish list
for the new shop/Hanger (room for a 1700 ft. strip!). Yes...I Have reviewed
the archives. What has worked especially well for you in the shop...what do
you wish you had done....what should'nt you have done...done differently, any
hints on any aspect would be appreciated. Lighting, tools, hanger doors,
creature comforts, floor paint?....plumbing for the compressor (anybody use
PVC?)...etc. You get the idea. If you were doing what I was, what would you
do?
If you don't want to clog up the list with this stuff feel free to resond
directly to yonderrdc(at)aol.com. If anyone wants phone #'s let me know.
I'll be ordering aircraft tools from cleveland or avery soon and dropping a
small fortune at SEARS. I've been picking up odds and ends recently ....latest
is a Dremel setup and a gross of flame-proof underwear :).
Thanks very much for any information all. It's a pleasure to finally say
Hi...
David
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Hal / Carol Kempthorne <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Gear leg Stiffners |
At 04:35 PM 5/6/2004, you wrote:
>
> I wouldn't put them on, here's why.
>
snip
>I figure the only thing
>that saved my gear and motor mount, was the Whitman gear. If it had been
>stiff, I probley would have had to replace more than just the wheelpant.
I doubt it. The steel is twenty times stronger than the wood, maybe
more. The wood would have added very little to strength.
However, wood is very good at damping vibration. Some years ago a railroad
tried using ties made of concrete instead of wood in order to reduce
costs. While wood ties last years, the concrete began breaking up in a few
weeks.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bob U." <rv3(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: Gear leg Stiffners |
>Some years ago a railroad
>tried using ties made of concrete instead of wood in order to reduce
>costs. While wood ties last years, the concrete began breaking up in a few
>weeks.
>
>
>K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
>RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
>PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
>
Tsk. Tsk.
Rocla Concrete Tie, Inc sure would take issue with you.
Concrete ties have been used successfully throughout the world for more
than 50 years.
Just a few websites....
http://www.aslrra.org/who_we_serve/associate_members/details.cfm?memberid=1783
http://www.kellysearch.com/qz-product-106454.html
http://www.koppers.com/htm/PandS_Rail_KSA.html
http://64.233.167.104/search?q=cache:PVwLKhNmP8wJ:www.lbfoster.com/cxt/cxtrailroadproducts/TiesProd2.pdf+concrete+railroad+ties&hl=en
FYI, even ships have been successfully been manufactured from concrete!
http://www.concreteships.org/history/
Bob - retired Class I railroad employee
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Brian Alley <n320wt(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Gear leg Stiffners |
Several Tailwinds and other aircraft equipped with
tapered rod gear have suffered cracks in the gear
mount truss due to the oscillation of the gear. The
wood stiffeners change the natural frequency of the
spring gear in the direction the gear tends to
oscillate. I added wood to my gear and did eliminate a
moderate oscillation. The wood is bonded to both the
front and rear edges of the gear leg then carved into
an airfoil shape. The wood is then wrapped with
fiberglass, filled with epoxy/micro, sanded and
painted. It's a permanent part of the gear legs and
solved the problem completely.
====
BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
304-872-7938 shop
304-562-6800 home
How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
________________________________________________________________________________
rv-list(at)matronics.com, brooks6(at)ustconline.net
Subject: | RV List Fish Fry |
From: | smoothweasel(at)juno.com |
Hey Guy's The time is almost here for the fish fry fly-in that we have
been planning.
There will be a plenty of fun and food so come on out and see us!!!!
See ya Sat.
Weasel
> > This is an invitation to a fly-in to be held on Saturday, May 15,2004
at
> > 11:00 a.m. We will plan on serving the meal at 12:00 noon. We
welcome
> > all aircraft that land on grass to come try out our strip. If you
don't
> > do grass strips join us for the food and friendly conversation.
> >
> > We are located at:
> > GPS: N 33 08.511' W 088 24.485'
> > 1950 ft. grass N/S runway
> > Caution: Power pole on the S/W corner of the runway
> >
> > If driving:
> > Travel Hwy 45 to Prairie Point Rd. Turn East on Prairie Point Rd,
pass
> > Macon Airport and of about 8.5 mi. to Greenbriar Rd. Turn South onto
> > Greenbriar, look for black catfish mailbox. Turn right at the
mailbox
> > and drive between the ponds to the house. We plan to be there,
waiting
> > for you.
> >
> > Questions? Contact us at:
> > Dwight Lee (662) 726-9709 e-mail: bubbalee69(at)juno.com
> > Levi Lee (662) 726-5560
> >
> > Check e-mail or call before coming if there is a chance of bad
weather
> > cancellation.
> >
> > PS If you know anyone who would enjoy this please pass this
invitation
on
> > for us.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
Subject: | RV6 firewall insulation |
Searched the archives and found no recent info on installation of firewall
insulation.
The archive info did seem to indicate that the spray on adhesive is not
sufficient to hold insulation in place for very long.
1. Is firewall insulation a "must" for reducing heat and noise on the RV6?
2. Has anyone found an attachment method that is durable?
Dale Ensing
RV6A N118DE reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV6 firewall insulation |
From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)warpdriveonline.com> |
on 5/10/04 7:04 AM, DWENSING(at)aol.com at DWENSING(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Searched the archives and found no recent info on installation of firewall
> insulation.
> The archive info did seem to indicate that the spray on adhesive is not
> sufficient to hold insulation in place for very long.
>
> 1. Is firewall insulation a "must" for reducing heat and noise on the RV6?
>
I have no insulation anywhere and have never missed it, as long as I wear
headseats.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://n5lp.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Unleaded 100 Octane |
Dear All,
There is continuous discussion of "the demise of 100ll". I was recently
refered to this info by a mutual car nut. If Sunoco can get 100 Oct without
any "metal additives", whats to prevent the same thing from replacing 100
LL.
Kindof a speculative question, but I'm hoping it will lead to some
interesting discussion. I am aware that Av fuel and auto fuel octane
ratings are measured differently at different A/F ratios but am not aware of
the affect it has on the rating.
Don
***********************
http://www.racegas.com/gt100locals/default.asp
Sunoco GTTM 100, which has the highest octane rating of any street legal
fuel, is now available at selected retail locations. Sunoco GT 100 is
designed for high performance street cars, muscle cars, classics, street
rods, motorcycles, karts and marine applications. Sunoco GT 100 contains no
metallic compounds to harm catalytic converters or oxygen sensors. It
contains a comprehensive additive package for greater engine protection and
reduced fuel system deposits as measured by the BMW test. Sunoco GT 100 is
also compatible with virtually all two-stroke synthetic and mineral based
motor oils.
GT 100 Unleaded is available at selected locations throughout the U.S. In
certain areas, GT 100 Unleaded is available under the CAM2 GTTM 100 label.
Mothers Day is May 9. Make it special with great ideas from the Mothers
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
Subject: | Re: RV6 firewall insulation |
Dale,
Put your money into good headsets. While the insulation would probably
help reduce he overall noise by a relatively small amount, it's heavy
and expensive and, in my opinion, the exhaust and wind noise are more
of a problem.
Dave, RV6 So Cal
EAA Technical Counselor
DWENSING(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
>Searched the archives and found no recent info on installation of firewall
>insulation.
>The archive info did seem to indicate that the spray on adhesive is not
>sufficient to hold insulation in place for very long.
>
>1. Is firewall insulation a "must" for reducing heat and noise on the RV6?
>
>2. Has anyone found an attachment method that is durable?
>Dale Ensing
>RV6A N118DE reserved
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: RV6 firewall insulation |
In a message dated 5/10/2004 6:11:22 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
DWENSING(at)aol.com writes:
1. Is firewall insulation a "must" for reducing heat and noise on the RV6?
2. Has anyone found an attachment method that is durable?
=========================
This is, of course, a personal choice and the RV is, by nature, a noisy
airframe. Insulation is desirable to make it less so.
However, insulation that works will add weight. I have probably one of the
coolest and quietest RVs around, but that comes at a price in $$ and weight.
There remains a substantial noise level that must be dealt with using ANR
headsets.
Further, unless you get your external air from some place other than the
fuselage, you will still get warmed air from the cowling external surface.
GV (RV-6A N1GV flying 690 hrs)
Not all questions or values which human beings find worth pursuing and
committing themselves to can be approached scientifically. There can be no doubt
that scientific theories fulfill a vital human need. But so do nonscientific
theories, whether they be in the field of cosmology or religion, art, morality,
knowledge or even science.---Robert Todd Carroll
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "pcondon" <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
Subject: | Re: Gear leg Stiffners (This may be a bad idea) |
The kind of Steel that these gear legs we use are easily rusted. I wonder if
the long term effects of burying the gear rods in a tomb of sealed bondo,
wood and F/G and water will cause mayor rust and structural problems down
the road. Especially if you cannot inspect the condition of the rods....
.........................................................................
From: Brian Alley <n320wt(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear leg Stiffners
Several Tailwinds and other aircraft equipped with
tapered rod gear have suffered cracks in the gear
mount truss due to the oscillation of the gear. The
wood stiffeners change the natural frequency of the
spring gear in the direction the gear tends to
oscillate. I added wood to my gear and did eliminate a
moderate oscillation. The wood is bonded to both the
front and rear edges of the gear leg then carved into
an airfoil shape. The wood is then wrapped with
fiberglass, filled with epoxy/micro, sanded and
painted. It's a permanent part of the gear legs and
solved the problem completely.
====
BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
304-872-7938 shop
304-562-6800 home
How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Gear leg Stiffners (This may be a bad idea) |
In a message dated 5/10/2004 11:22:02 AM Eastern Daylight Time, pcondon(at)mitre.org
writes:
> The kind of Steel that these gear legs we use are easily rusted. I wonder if
> the long term effects of burying the gear rods in a tomb of sealed bondo,
> wood and F/G and water will cause mayor rust and structural problems down
> the road. Especially if you cannot inspect the condition of
> the rods....
Yes, check the archives; mine were rusted and pitted when I removed the dampening
stuff (never to be replaced and never missed, by the way.)
-Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Brian Alley <n320wt(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Gear leg Stiffners (This may be a bad idea) |
The gear are epoxy primed and painted with Stits
Aerothane before the wood is bonded on. The bond is a
urethane adhesive used to install auto windows. I'm
sure the metal gear legs are well protected from rust
and corrosion.
====
BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
304-872-7938 shop
304-562-6800 home
How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
Subject: | Gear leg Stiffners (This may be a bad idea) |
This very issue has gone full circle sometime ago, and there were a number
of gear legs that ended up with corrossion/pitting on them as a result of
the bonded stiffners. The general consensus in the past was to leave them
off, but then again.....to each his own.
I have 2 flying -6's, 1 with stiffners and 1 without. Honestly don't notice
a difference and they won't be installed on anymore RV's that I build.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of pcondon
Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear leg Stiffners (This may be a bad idea)
The kind of Steel that these gear legs we use are easily rusted. I wonder if
the long term effects of burying the gear rods in a tomb of sealed bondo,
wood and F/G and water will cause mayor rust and structural problems down
the road. Especially if you cannot inspect the condition of the rods....
.........................................................................
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Electronic Widget Power Draw |
From: | "" <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com> |
All,
I am loking for the max estimated current draw most typical airplane "widgets"
(strobes, lights, radio, pitot tube, navaid, etc.) draw. I am assuming most all
would fit in the under 10 amp category?
Reason I ask is that I am looking to get a regulated DC power supply to do testing
on the bench, and I am trying to figure out which model to get (3A or 10A).
I know I could also buy a cheap lawnmower battery, but I would rather not
deal with charging it.
Thanks,
Scott
7A Wings
www.scottsrv7a.com
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Help with tachometer pickup |
Since you have an all electric panel, there may be one other option worth
looking into. If you engine monitor uses or accepts electronic impluse to
register RPM there is a magneto pickup that pops right in place in the
magneto side case. It works whether the magneto is firing or grounded. Or
if you have dual electronic ignition then you can use one of the ignition
modules for the PRm pickup. The only problem with this is during the engine
run-up. When you turn off that particular ignition module you lose the RPM
sensing. If you are interested in the magneto pickup give Rob Hickman a call
at Advanced Control Systems (ACS). His number is (503) 598-7727.
Mike Robertson
>From: "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Help with tachometer pickup
>Date: Fri, 7 May 2004 23:08:40 -0400
>
>
>Peter,
>
>What we did on our RV6 is to attach a short cable from the engine to the
>pickup. The pickup is mounted on a "shelf" that also holds the GPS antenna
>just under the cowl. Seems to work just fine.
>
>I think I got the cable from the "Aviation" department of some place like
>NAPA/AutoZone.
>
>Email me if there are additional questions.
>
>James
>
>p.s. Since you are "all electric", do you have an EFIS or electronic engine
>monitor along with Electronic Ignition? Many of these combinations allow
>for
>RPM to be determined from counting pulses on the EI.
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> > PeterHunt1(at)aol.com
> > Sent: Friday, May 07, 2004 6:22 PM
> > To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com;
> > rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com.pts.rule.name.description.----.------------
> > ----------.--------------------------------------------------
> > Subject: RV-List: Help with tachometer pickup
> >
> >
> >
> > After installing my SD20 alternator on the vacuum pad of my
> > 0-360-A1A, I find
> > there isn't sufficient clearance for Van's tachometer transducer to
>screw
> > onto the tachometer outlet on the back of my engine. I built my
> > all electric
> > panel around my SD20, so it will stay. Would someone help me
> > understand my other
> > tachometer pickup options? Thanks.
> >
> > Pete
> > Clearwater, FL
> > RV-6, installing the engine
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
Subject: | Electronic Widget Power Draw |
Check the Matronics aeroelectric list archives. Lots of useful stuff there.
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com
Subject: RV-List: Electronic Widget Power Draw
All,
I am loking for the max estimated current draw most typical airplane
"widgets" (strobes, lights, radio, pitot tube, navaid, etc.) draw. I am
assuming most all would fit in the under 10 amp category?
Thanks,
Scott
7A Wings
www.scottsrv7a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
Subject: | Electronic Widget Power Draw |
If you have to choose between those two, go with the 10A.
There will be times that you will desire to connect more than one thing.
There will be times you will experience s a sag in voltage with the 3A etc.
I have both sizes. The 10A is bulkier but that is what is on the bench at
the hangar now.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com
> Sent: Monday, May 10, 2004 1:21 PM
> To: RV7and7A(at)yahoogroups.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Electronic Widget Power Draw
>
>
> All,
>
> I am loking for the max estimated current draw most typical
> airplane "widgets" (strobes, lights, radio, pitot tube, navaid,
> etc.) draw. I am assuming most all would fit in the under 10 amp
> category?
>
> Reason I ask is that I am looking to get a regulated DC power
> supply to do testing on the bench, and I am trying to figure out
> which model to get (3A or 10A). I know I could also buy a cheap
> lawnmower battery, but I would rather not deal with charging it.
>
> Thanks,
> Scott
> 7A Wings
> www.scottsrv7a.com
>
>
> Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
> The most personalized portal on the Web!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: Electronic Widget Power Draw |
tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com wrote:
>
>
>All,
>
>I am loking for the max estimated current draw most typical airplane "widgets"
(strobes, lights, radio, pitot tube, navaid, etc.) draw. I am assuming most
all would fit in the under 10 amp category?
>
>Reason I ask is that I am looking to get a regulated DC power supply to do testing
on the bench, and I am trying to figure out which model to get (3A or 10A).
I know I could also buy a cheap lawnmower battery, but I would rather not
deal with charging it.
>
>Thanks,
>Scott
>7A Wings
>www.scottsrv7a.com
>
Scott, each component is a couple of amps or less, but if you want to
power a couple of items at once .....
I'd go with the 10A. Depending on just how good the filtering of the
power supply is, you may or may not get hum in the audio stuff. If you
do, just put the tractor battery across the power supply as a filter.
Linn
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Gear leg Stiffners (This may be a bad idea) |
This may have gone full circle, but then many discussions here do so
without ever coming to a concensus one way or the other. :-)
In this case, I think we need to separate the "wood stiffeners help dampen
oscillation" issue from the "wood stiffeners cause corrosion" issue. I think
the concensus on damping is that the wood either works well (most cases) or
made no difference. So I would conclude that it is worth doing from that
perspective. Then there is the issue of corrosion, and the right way to do
the job if you are going to do it. As another lister posted, the right way
to do this is with a good epoxy primer coat prior to any stiffner bonding or
fibreglass work. Has anyone who primed their gearlegs with an epoxy primer
(not just epoxy) before installing the stiffeners still experienced a
corrosion problem?
Sometimes people try to cut corners or redesign a part or process, fail, and
then rationalize that there must have been something inherently wrong with
the original idea. (me included)
Curt
RV-6 140 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Gear leg Stiffners (This may be a bad idea)
>
> This very issue has gone full circle sometime ago, and there were a number
> of gear legs that ended up with corrossion/pitting on them as a result of
> the bonded stiffners. The general consensus in the past was to leave them
> off, but then again.....to each his own.
>
> I have 2 flying -6's, 1 with stiffners and 1 without. Honestly don't
notice
> a difference and they won't be installed on anymore RV's that I build.
>
> Cheers,
> Stein Bruch
> RV6's, Minneapolis.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of pcondon
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear leg Stiffners (This may be a bad idea)
>
>
> The kind of Steel that these gear legs we use are easily rusted. I wonder
if
> the long term effects of burying the gear rods in a tomb of sealed bondo,
> wood and F/G and water will cause mayor rust and structural problems down
> the road. Especially if you cannot inspect the condition of the rods....
>
>
> .........................................................................
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Gear leg Stiffners (This may be a bad idea) |
My gear legs came from Van's powder coated. I was not too impressed with the
powder coating on the canopy frame. It appears that the steel wasn't prepped
at all. If the gear legs are the same, flexing could open up cracks in the
paint where corrosion could start. Has anyone had this happen?
Now, how is the best way to get that powder coating off? Don't say just flex
the legs and it will fall off!
I am glad that someone suggested epoxy primer. I have some Dexter which is
as tough as nails -- almost literally! It should be good for the gear legs.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (still almost done!)
In a message dated 5/10/04 2:41:38 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca writes:
> In this case, I think we need to separate the "wood stiffeners help dampen
> oscillation" issue from the "wood stiffeners cause corrosion" issue. I think
> the concensus on damping is that the wood either works well (most cases) or
> made no difference. So I would conclude that it is worth doing from that
> perspective. Then there is the issue of corrosion, and the right way to do
> the job if you are going to do it. As another lister posted, the right way
> to do this is with a good epoxy primer coat prior to any stiffner bonding or
> fibreglass work. Has anyone who primed their gearlegs with an epoxy primer
> (not just epoxy) before installing the stiffeners still experienced a
> corrosion problem?
>
> Sometimes people try to cut corners or redesign a part or process, fail, and
> then rationalize that there must have been something inherently wrong with
> the original idea. (me included)
>
> Curt
> RV-6 140 hours
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Standing by with my asbestos underwear ;-)
Now wait a minute Doug, that's gotta itch something fierce,
so,,,
there you are flying along scratching and scritching both joy sticks and
who's eyes are outside the cockpit?
;{)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | George Neal E Capt AU/PC <Neal.George(at)maxwell.af.mil> |
Subject: | Electronic Widget Power Draw |
Scott -
In my Amateur Radio activities, I've been very happy with Astron power
supplies. I'd recommend a bigger supply than you think you'll need. The
RS-20M will provide 20 amps intermittent and about 14 amps continuous
without damaging the supply, and has meters for voltage and current mounted
in the case. $117 from Ham Radio Outlet ( www.hamradio.com ).
Switching supplies of equal capacity are usually advertised as less
expensive, but must be carefully (expensively) filtered to control the
electrical noise and RFI that is generated by the switching circuitry. A
properly filtered switching power supply will cost about the same as a
linear supply. It's only true "advantage" is less weight.
In the Ham Shack, dirty power will make your head hurt. It will make a mess
of your aviation equipment, too.
73... N8ZG (Neal)
RV-7 Elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob <panamared3(at)brier.net> |
>That said....I though you might lend your expertise as I draw up my wish list
>for the new shop/Hanger (room for a 1700 ft. strip!). Yes...I Have reviewed
>the archives. What has worked especially well for you in the shop...what do
>you wish you had done....what should'nt you have done...done differently, any
>hints on any aspect would be appreciated. Lighting, tools, hanger doors,
>creature comforts, floor paint?....plumbing for the compressor (anybody use
>PVC?)...etc. You get the idea. If you were doing what I was, what would
>you do?
I started building in a 2 car garage and finally moved to a 2500 square
foot metal barn with concrete floors. A few comments:
1. You need good heat in the winter and some way to stay cool in the
summer. This is important! I used a 250 gal propane tank with a 250,000
BTU propane barn heater. Large fans in the summer.
2. You can almost never have too much money or room, but 2500 square feet
was way too big, especially for heating and cooling. I enclosed a small
space of about 600 square feet for most of the building. I did have the
wings and tail surfaces mounted for over a year inside the barn, and still
had plenty of room to move around, what a real luxury!
3. Get all the light you can, operating a flashlight, bucking bar and
riveting gun all at once is hard to do.
4. Get plenty of electrical outlets, for power tools, shop tools, wood
working tools and the electric drill. You can use the air drill, but I
preferred the electric drill. For me, just a matter of preference. I used
both, nice to have two drills ready to go at any time, both with different
bits or attachments. Also get a good angel drill attachment and angle
grinder. Matter of fact, just go to the Sears tool area and buy one of
everything. Just kidding...well almost!!
5. I would have loved to have a painted floor. But, building the airplane
came first, after the airplane was built no need for the painted floor.
6. Get a quite compressor, oil less is really loud.
7. Build shelves, cabinets and drawers. Organization of all the tools and
parts is a great time saver.
8. Make sure you have plenty of electrical power, I used a 50 amp circuit
box with 20 Amp outlets, now I wished I had done 100 Amps, 50 Amps is good
for RV building, 100 Amps would be nice for TIG welding (welding not
required, but a nice luxury). Don't forget power requirements for the air
conditioner, water heater, heating system, microwave, hot tub etc.
9. Plumbing for a sink and toilet would be nice. Water is needed for
cleaning and painting, etc. Outdoor faucet and hose will work.
10. Doors big enough to get parts in and out. My barn doors were big
enough to roll the entire aircraft in and out. Again a real luxury!
11. You do need an AM/FM radio, used mine a lot. Also a TV with VCR would
be nice to view the how to tapes.
12. And while you are at it, put in a bed and a kitchen. Will save a lot
of time, get you back to building quicker.
13. Of course a two car garage will work also.
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
Subject: | Corrosion of gear legs vs Gear leg Stiffners vs were legs primed |
adequately
An aluminum air filter body (in-line on my shop air compressor/tank) was
powder coated at the factory and corroded through and blew out. Based on
that single data point, powder coating seems worthless as a corrosion
resisting treatment. I'll coat my gear legs with the strontium chomate
epoxy primer that I've used on my other aluminum & steel parts.
David
----- Original Message -----
From: <Hopperdhh(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear leg Stiffners (This may be a bad idea)
>
>
> My gear legs came from Van's powder coated. I was not too impressed with
the
> powder coating on the canopy frame. It appears that the steel wasn't
prepped
> at all. If the gear legs are the same, flexing could open up cracks in
the
> paint where corrosion could start. Has anyone had this happen?
>
> Now, how is the best way to get that powder coating off? Don't say just
flex
> the legs and it will fall off!
>
> I am glad that someone suggested epoxy primer. I have some Dexter which
is
> as tough as nails -- almost literally! It should be good for the gear
legs.
>
> Dan Hopper
> RV-7A (still almost done!)
>
>
> In a message dated 5/10/04 2:41:38 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
> cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca writes:
>
> > In this case, I think we need to separate the "wood stiffeners help
dampen
> > oscillation" issue from the "wood stiffeners cause corrosion" issue. I
think
> > the concensus on damping is that the wood either works well (most cases)
or
> > made no difference. So I would conclude that it is worth doing from that
> > perspective. Then there is the issue of corrosion, and the right way to
do
> > the job if you are going to do it. As another lister posted, the right
way
> > to do this is with a good epoxy primer coat prior to any stiffner
bonding or
> > fibreglass work. Has anyone who primed their gearlegs with an epoxy
primer
> > (not just epoxy) before installing the stiffeners still experienced a
> > corrosion problem?
> >
> > Sometimes people try to cut corners or redesign a part or process, fail,
and
> > then rationalize that there must have been something inherently wrong
with
> > the original idea. (me included)
> >
> > Curt
> > RV-6 140 hours
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV6 firewall insulation |
----- Original Message -----
From: <DWENSING(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV6 firewall insulation
>
>
> Searched the archives and found no recent info on installation of firewall
> insulation.
> The archive info did seem to indicate that the spray on adhesive is not
> sufficient to hold insulation in place for very long.
>
> 1. Is firewall insulation a "must" for reducing heat and noise on the RV6?
A must? Naah, but RV's are very noisy (no mufflers), and a
carpeted/insulated floor and firewall really help with the noise. As far as
heat, the firewall insulation is really nice in Southern climates.
> 2. Has anyone found an attachment method that is durable?
Yep. I used the spray adhesive and a little tape the first time, then had
loose insulation after a couple of years. The secret is to use the spray
adhesive to tack the insulation in place (starting with the biggest pieces),
then to use aluminum HVAC tape to tape the heck out of each piece as you
install it. Tape the big pieces to the firewall stiffeners along the
perimeter of each piece, and you'll be good, then tape the adjoining pieces
of insulation to the accessable stiffeners. Where stiffeners are not
accessable, tape to securely fastened pieces of insulation.
KB
> Dale Ensing
> RV6A N118DE reserved
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov> |
Subject: | Re: Gear leg Stiffeners (This may be a bad idea) |
Speaking of potentially bad ideas, has anyone tried fiberglass sheets
clamped to the gear leg in a few spots?
The reason I ask this is that in days of yore, leaf springs served as
suspension dampers. The leaves are clamped together in several spots and
thus rub against one another as the spring flexes. This damps out movement
via friction.
I am guessing that several layers of fiberglass "leaves" might do the same
thing. Has this been tried?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
Subject: | RV6 firewall insulation |
For what its worth: One of my building construction magazines this month
noted that Dow's "Great Stuff"(tm) canned foam insulation has been approved
for fire stopping in buildings. They will be making a version of it in
orange color to insure the inspectors that it is the approved kind, but it
will be no different from the stuff you buy at Home Depot.
Terry
> Searched the archives and found no recent info on installation of firewall
> insulation.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
Subject: | Gear leg Stiffeners (This may be a bad idea) |
Yep.....In fact, there are a number of RV's flying with Fiberglass Rod's
instead of wood attached to the legs. The thinking at the time was that the
glass wouldn't absorb moisture. Not commong practice anymore.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill Dube
Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear leg Stiffeners (This may be a bad idea)
Speaking of potentially bad ideas, has anyone tried fiberglass
sheets
clamped to the gear leg in a few spots?
The reason I ask this is that in days of yore, leaf springs served
as
suspension dampers. The leaves are clamped together in several spots and
thus rub against one another as the spring flexes. This damps out movement
via friction.
I am guessing that several layers of fiberglass "leaves" might do
the same
thing. Has this been tried?
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Gear leg Stiffeners (This may be a bad idea) |
I have the fiberglass gear leg fairings filled with foam. To insure that my
gear legs would not corrode from moisture soaked foam, I first primed the gear
legs with epoxy primer, and then applied large heat shrink tubing to the gear
legs. Worked great! Large diameter heat shrink tubing is available at
electrical wholesale warehouses. I put the brake lines between the gear leg and
the
heat shrink.
Bill Mahoney
RV-6 N747W
first flight 9/91
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Gear leg Stiffners (are a good idea) |
My RV-6 was hit by at car when it was 1.5 years old and 307 hours on it.
The engine mount was broken and a gear leg bent so all was replaced.
I removed the WOOD from the gear legs to inspect the steel. NO corrosion
was found. I used Rustoleum primer on the gear legs. The replacements were
done the exact same way. First flight was September 1997. Been across the
US 9 times. As far north as Fort Yukon Alaska (north of the Arctic Circle)
and as far east as the Bahamas (MYLS). The airplane also sat out side in
San Jose for 6 weeks on a business trip.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,498 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of pcondon
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear leg Stiffners (This may be a bad idea)
>
>
>
>
> The kind of Steel that these gear legs we use are easily rusted. I wonder
if
> the long term effects of burying the gear rods in a tomb of sealed bondo,
> wood and F/G and water will cause mayor rust and structural problems down
> the road. Especially if you cannot inspect the condition of the rods....
>
>
> .........................................................................
>
>
it's FREE! http://messenger.msn.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Piavis" <piavis(at)pacbell.net> |
Subject: | LP4-3 Blind Fasteners |
I'm short several LP4-3 fasteners and need to find a couple or twenty. Van's
list them but to make the weekend I'd like to order from Spruce. Anyone know
a suitable sub for the LP4-3 as I can't find any reference aside from Van's.
Jim
-7 2nd Wing
Mountain View, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rich Crosley" <dirtrider(at)qnet.com> |
Subject: | RV-8 Main Gear Leg Fairings |
It seems to me that it would be easier to just epoxy the trailing edges of
the main gear leg fairings together rather than mess with the hinges.
Besides not being able to remove them, what's the disadvantage? Why would
you want to remove them? It looks like you will have to remove the wheel to
get the hinge pin in and out anyway. What am I missing here?
Thanks,
Rich Crosley
Palmdale, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-8 Main Gear Leg Fairings |
Rich,
At least on a -6/-7, you do not have to remover the wheels or the wheel
pants to remove the hinge pin, I doubt on an -8 if you'll have any problems
removing them either. You will need to remove the fairings if they wear out
or get damaged, also to do maintenance on your brake lines, etc. It is
really easy to install the hinges, I would recommend that you do it that
way.
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 Finishing Kit
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich Crosley" <dirtrider(at)qnet.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Main Gear Leg Fairings
>
> It seems to me that it would be easier to just epoxy the trailing edges of
> the main gear leg fairings together rather than mess with the hinges.
> Besides not being able to remove them, what's the disadvantage? Why would
> you want to remove them? It looks like you will have to remove the wheel
to
> get the hinge pin in and out anyway. What am I missing here?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Rich Crosley
> Palmdale, CA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gabe A Ferrer" <ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | RV-8 Main Gear Leg Fairings |
Don't know about an RV8. But on my RV6 I like to be able to inspect the Gear Legs.
I made a removable cuff to transition from the gear leg to the wheel cover. It's
easy to remove the hinge pin after removing the cuff.
Gabe A Ferrer
RV6 N2GX 112 hours
South Florida
Email: ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net
Cell: 561 758 8894
Night Phone: 561 622 0960
Fax: 561 622 0960
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Corrosion of gear legs vs Gear leg Stiffners vs were legs |
primed...
In a message dated 5/10/2004 2:09:21 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
dcarter(at)datarecall.net writes:
An aluminum air filter body (in-line on my shop air compressor/tank) was
powder coated at the factory and corroded through and blew out. Based on
that single data point, powder coating seems worthless as a corrosion
resisting treatment.
============================
I've explained this fact numerous times on the list, without garnering much
interest.
GV (RV-6A N1GV flying 690 hrs)
Not all questions or values which human beings find worth pursuing and
committing themselves to can be approached scientifically. There can be no doubt
that scientific theories fulfill a vital human need. But so do nonscientific
theories, whether they be in the field of cosmology or religion, art, morality,
knowledge or even science. ---Robert Todd Carroll
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)warpdriveonline.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-8 Main Gear Leg Fairings |
>
> It seems to me that it would be easier to just epoxy the trailing edges of
> the main gear leg fairings together rather than mess with the hinges.
> Besides not being able to remove them, what's the disadvantage? Why would
> you want to remove them? It looks like you will have to remove the wheel
to
> get the hinge pin in and out anyway. What am I missing here?
>
Well, I'm not sure how often it would come up, but I do like to be able to
get to the brake lines.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://n5lp.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-8 Main Gear Leg Fairings |
> It seems to me that it would be easier to just epoxy the trailing edges of
> the main gear leg fairings together rather than mess with the hinges.
> Besides not being able to remove them, what's the disadvantage? Why would
> you want to remove them? It looks like you will have to remove the wheel
to
> get the hinge pin in and out anyway. What am I missing here?
> > Thanks,
> Rich Crosley
> Palmdale, CA
Rich, I did exactly that and it worked just fine...
http://www.rv-8.com/Fairings.htm
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 368 hrs, sold
RV-3B, empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Unleaded 100 Octane |
I think 100-NoLead probably is possible, but I don't think the metal
additives are the reason for the real threat to 100LL. The problem, as
I understand it, is that 100LL is, by comparison a very small part of
the gasoline market and the oil refiners just don't want to bother with
it. Very few refineries (8 as of a year or 2 ago) still make the stuff.
If some one can correct me on this, please do. I have an IO360-B2B which
will get hung on my plane next month. I'd sure like to know that I'll
have a source of 100 oct. fuel for it well into the future.
--
Tom Sargent - RV-6A, Landing Gear.
Donald Mei wrote:
>
>Dear All,
>
>There is continuous discussion of "the demise of 100ll". I was recently
>refered to this info by a mutual car nut. If Sunoco can get 100 Oct without
>any "metal additives", whats to prevent the same thing from replacing 100
>LL.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
Subject: | RV-8 Main Gear Leg Fairings |
Another observation from one who has had my gear leg fairings off more times
than I care to divulge!
#1) If the tabs at the top that hold the thing to the gear ever break (and
they do sometimes), you'll need to get the fairing off to fix them.
#2) You don't have to remove the wheel to get the pin out.
#3) If you fly in snow deeper than 2-3", then the fairings get trashed at
the bottom (I know this from experience and now remove them in the winter
when flying out of our snowy grass strip).
#4) If I ever need to work on the break lines I can.
They really aren't that hard to get on and off, and like another listed
posted, repairing them is MUCH easier if they're not glued permanently on.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rich Crosley
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Main Gear Leg Fairings
It seems to me that it would be easier to just epoxy the trailing edges of
the main gear leg fairings together rather than mess with the hinges.
Besides not being able to remove them, what's the disadvantage? Why would
you want to remove them? It looks like you will have to remove the wheel to
get the hinge pin in and out anyway. What am I missing here?
Thanks,
Rich Crosley
Palmdale, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: Unleaded 100 Octane |
thomas a. sargent wrote:
>
>I think 100-NoLead probably is possible, but I don't think the metal
>additives are the reason for the real threat to 100LL. The problem, as
>I understand it, is that 100LL is, by comparison a very small part of
>the gasoline market and the oil refiners just don't want to bother with
>it. Very few refineries (8 as of a year or 2 ago) still make the stuff.
>
>If some one can correct me on this, please do. I have an IO360-B2B which
>will get hung on my plane next month. I'd sure like to know that I'll
>have a source of 100 oct. fuel for it well into the future.
>--
>Tom Sargent - RV-6A, Landing Gear.
>
>Donald Mei wrote:
>
Your IO360 will run quite well on mogas. Mine's an A4A in my Pitts
...... and I abuse the heck out of it running hi-test (92). I do not
have lead fouling problems which used to occur every 10 hrs or so. I,
for one, won't miss 100LL. However, if you're really hung up on 100LL,
be assured that the environmentalists will take issue with the lead and
whatever replacement the Feds agree on will work just fine ....... but
'works fine' is a subjectie term. Right now we have one fuel that
replaced 80 and 100/130 and 'works fine' includes digging lead rocks out
of the plugs periodically. Maybe we'll get a car-gas derrivative with a
'vapor pressure modifier' as an additive!!!
Linn
>
>
>
>>
>>Dear All,
>>
>>There is continuous discussion of "the demise of 100ll". I was recently
>>refered to this info by a mutual car nut. If Sunoco can get 100 Oct without
>>any "metal additives", whats to prevent the same thing from replacing 100
>>LL.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | bertrv6(at)highstream.net |
test hi
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "copperhead" <copperhead(at)tcmax.net> |
Well after much lurking, visiting different projects, and encouragement from other
RV builders (such as Rick in Nevada), I have stepped off into the deep water.
It took several visits out to the college to participate in numerous experiments
and selling vast quantities of various body fluids, but I finally got
the money and I am now the proud owner of an -9 empennage and complete tool kit.
After looking over the plans, I must say I am excitedly scared at the prospect
of building this machine. This is gonna be GREAT!
I anticipate ordering the wing kit by the end of the summer as I have a few other
projects to complete first (including a wedding), plus my back just wouldn't
hold up to the late night dancing at the club which threw my finances a little
off. The paper route is going well though, plus the whole lottery thing each
week, so hopefully I should be back on top by then.
I am located in Southeast Missouri and looking to hook up with a tech counselor
as I want it done the best I can possibly make it. I have received a contact
list from EAA which I plan on utilizing, unless someone wants to step forward
or has a better idea. I would also like to co-mingle with other builders in
the area.
One of the final decisions on this particular project was the RV family. Each
person seems genuinely concerned about every aspect of this hobby and goes out
of their way to show it. I have been greatly impressed with the overall attitude
of RVer's which made me want to be a part. Thanks for the opportunity to
participate with such a distinquished group.
BTW, I have an extra set of preview plans for sale (its a long, sad story). I
would consider a trade for a wing kit or maybe a set of those nomex shorts.
Chuck in Missouri #90662
99.9% to go (still trying to get the box opened)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Brian Alley <n320wt(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: eis question |
Bert, I have an EIS in my 0320 W-10 Tailwind. It has
on rare occasion done exactly as you describe. It has
never happened in flight and has always been remedied
by a power cycle. Still, I would contact Grand Rapids
and have a note placed in your customer file or insist
on a repair or replacement if you have not begun
flying with it yet!!!
====
BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
304-872-7938 shop
304-562-6800 home
How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
> Hi:
>
> Recently Started my engine, first time, everything showed OK for
>about 30 seconds, and then my EIS (GRAND RIPIDS TECHNOLOGIES)UNIT WENT
>BLANK..
>
> I stoped the engine then. With engine off, I turned master switch
>on, and unit came to live, normally..
>
> I have not started engine second time, as I have been doing other
>things
> Does any one have any ideas or suggestions, as to why this happened?
>
>
> I have not called Company as yet...
>
>
> thanks for any comments..
>
>
> Bert
>
>
> rv6a
>
Check bus voltage with alternator (engine) running. I suspect an over or
undervoltage condition might be present due to failed regulator or
overvoltage protection.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
Check out the coupons and bargains on MSN Offers! http://youroffers.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ross Schlotthauer" <rv7maker(at)hotmail.com> |
Chuck,
Congratulations. I will trade you a set of RV-7A Tip up canopy and gear
installation drawing for your 9 preview plans. I will also throw in a
scrapped out elevator skin that contains one extra hole.
Welcome to the party,
Ross
Ross Schlotthauer
RV-7 Slider, wiring
www.experimentalair.com
>From: "copperhead" <copperhead(at)tcmax.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: New builder....
>Date: Tue, 11 May 2004 13:44:57 -0500
>
>
>Well after much lurking, visiting different projects, and encouragement
>from other RV builders (such as Rick in Nevada), I have stepped off into
>the deep water. It took several visits out to the college to participate
>in numerous experiments and selling vast quantities of various body fluids,
>but I finally got the money and I am now the proud owner of an -9 empennage
>and complete tool kit. After looking over the plans, I must say I am
>excitedly scared at the prospect of building this machine. This is gonna
>be GREAT!
>
>I anticipate ordering the wing kit by the end of the summer as I have a few
>other projects to complete first (including a wedding), plus my back just
>wouldn't hold up to the late night dancing at the club which threw my
>finances a little off. The paper route is going well though, plus the
>whole lottery thing each week, so hopefully I should be back on top by
>then.
>
>I am located in Southeast Missouri and looking to hook up with a tech
>counselor as I want it done the best I can possibly make it. I have
>received a contact list from EAA which I plan on utilizing, unless someone
>wants to step forward or has a better idea. I would also like to co-mingle
>with other builders in the area.
>
>One of the final decisions on this particular project was the RV family.
>Each person seems genuinely concerned about every aspect of this hobby and
>goes out of their way to show it. I have been greatly impressed with the
>overall attitude of RVer's which made me want to be a part. Thanks for the
>opportunity to participate with such a distinquished group.
>
>BTW, I have an extra set of preview plans for sale (its a long, sad story).
> I would consider a trade for a wing kit or maybe a set of those nomex
>shorts.
>
>Chuck in Missouri #90662
>99.9% to go (still trying to get the box opened)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <groves(at)epix.net> |
Subject: | Re: New builder.... |
Congrats Chuck!!
You are going to love it..Have fun
Kirk RV-8 wings
>
> From: "copperhead" <copperhead(at)tcmax.net>
> Date: 2004/05/11 Tue PM 02:44:57 EDT
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: New builder....
>
>
> Well after much lurking, visiting different projects, and encouragement from
other RV builders (such as Rick in Nevada), I have stepped off into the deep water.
It took several visits out to the college to participate in numerous experiments
and selling vast quantities of various body fluids, but I finally got
the money and I am now the proud owner of an -9 empennage and complete tool
kit. After looking over the plans, I must say I am excitedly scared at the prospect
of building this machine. This is gonna be GREAT!
>
> I anticipate ordering the wing kit by the end of the summer as I have a few other
projects to complete first (including a wedding), plus my back just wouldn't
hold up to the late night dancing at the club which threw my finances a little
off. The paper route is going well though, plus the whole lottery thing
each week, so hopefully I should be back on top by then.
>
> I am located in Southeast Missouri and looking to hook up with a tech counselor
as I want it done the best I can possibly make it. I have received a contact
list from EAA which I plan on utilizing, unless someone wants to step forward
or has a better idea. I would also like to co-mingle with other builders in
the area.
>
> One of the final decisions on this particular project was the RV family. Each
person seems genuinely concerned about every aspect of this hobby and goes out
of their way to show it. I have been greatly impressed with the overall attitude
of RVer's which made me want to be a part. Thanks for the opportunity
to participate with such a distinquished group.
>
> BTW, I have an extra set of preview plans for sale (its a long, sad story).
I would consider a trade for a wing kit or maybe a set of those nomex shorts.
>
> Chuck in Missouri #90662
> 99.9% to go (still trying to get the box opened)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
On occassion I find screws (#8 particularly) that stick and refuse to the
removed...some so bad they have to be drilled out.
I just finished my annual condition inspection and found three of the frozen
screws...I replaced them (and others that were removed to open inspection
plates, fairings, etc) with new stainless screws and put a dab of grease on
the threads, hoping it will prevent screws from freeziing in their nut
plates.
I wondered: Would Torx-head screws be a better bet? The Phillips heads seem
to simply 'ream out' too readily.
What has worked for you?
John
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
> On occassion I find screws (#8 particularly) that stick and
> refuse to the removed...some so bad they have to be drilled out.
Use a little wax on the threads. For a buck, you can buy a toilet wax
ring, should last through about 100 747's. Don't use grease, it will
streak and generally not work anyway.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 463 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
Subject: | Re: "Frozen" Screws |
>
> > On occassion I find screws (#8 particularly) that stick and
> > refuse to the removed...some so bad they have to be drilled out.
>
> Use a little wax on the threads. For a buck, you can buy a toilet wax
> ring, should last through about 100 747's. Don't use grease, it will
> streak and generally not work anyway.
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> RV6-A N66AP 463 hours
I also used the toilet wax ring techniques especially the first time I
inserted new screws into new nutplates.
Works great!!
Doug Weiler
RV-4 in the paint shop in Tuscaloosa, AL
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: "Frozen" Screws |
John wrote:
>
>On occassion I find screws (#8 particularly) that stick and refuse to the
>removed...some so bad they have to be drilled out.
>
>I just finished my annual condition inspection and found three of the frozen
>screws...I replaced them (and others that were removed to open inspection
>plates, fairings, etc) with new stainless screws and put a dab of grease on
>the threads, hoping it will prevent screws from freeziing in their nut
>plates.
>
>I wondered: Would Torx-head screws be a better bet? The Phillips heads seem
>to simply 'ream out' too readily.
>
>What has worked for you?
>
Buy a can of 'anti-sieze' at your local auto parts place. It's messy,
but you won't have to drill them out again!
Linn
But to answer your question ..... yes, Torx would be better than Phillips.
>
>John
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
Subject: | Re: "Frozen" Screws |
If you decide on torx, this is where to get them.
http://www.microfasteners.com/catalog/products/SSCFCMXS.cfm
I am going to use them.
Dick Tasker, RV9A # 90573
John wrote:
>
>On occassion I find screws (#8 particularly) that stick and refuse to the
>removed...some so bad they have to be drilled out.
>
>I just finished my annual condition inspection and found three of the frozen
>screws...I replaced them (and others that were removed to open inspection
>plates, fairings, etc) with new stainless screws and put a dab of grease on
>the threads, hoping it will prevent screws from freeziing in their nut
>plates.
>
>I wondered: Would Torx-head screws be a better bet? The Phillips heads seem
>to simply 'ream out' too readily.
>
>What has worked for you?
>
>John
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ned Thomas" <923te(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: "Frozen" Screws |
Be careful about the torx or even the square hole screws as they are
generally not as strong as phillips head screws. One company makes the
square head #8 screws with a smaller hole than standard in order to give
greater strength to the screw. If interested I'll have to do a little
searching to find out who it is.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
Subject: | Re: "Frozen" Screws |
The "square hole" screws are actually called Robertson screws.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ned Thomas" <923te(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: "Frozen" Screws
>
> Be careful about the torx or even the square hole screws as they are
> generally not as strong as phillips head screws. One company makes the
> square head #8 screws with a smaller hole than standard in order to give
> greater strength to the screw. If interested I'll have to do a little
> searching to find out who it is.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "bryan hooks" <hook3607(at)bellsouth.net> |
I'm interested. Are the torx screws that microfastener sells weaker
than normal Phillips heads? I'd planned on using these in a few places
and wasn't aware that they weren't as strong.
Bryan Hooks
RV-7A, Slow...very slow
Knoxville, TN
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ned Thomas
Subject: Re: RV-List: "Frozen" Screws
Be careful about the torx or even the square hole screws as they are
generally not as strong as phillips head screws. One company makes the
square head #8 screws with a smaller hole than standard in order to
give
greater strength to the screw. If interested I'll have to do a little
searching to find out who it is.
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
Subject: | Re: "Frozen" Screws |
I've pasted 2 or 3 e-mails at the bottom of this that give the last/latest
info I saw & filed in "My Documents".
Summary: The Torx ("6 lobe") -8 screws were originally made for -20 Torx
driver bit. Some torque testing was done and the original batch of screws
was replaced with screws for the -15 (smaller) driver bit - at no charge.
So, see the e-mails down at the bottom of this for more details, prices, web
site/source.
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "bryan hooks" <hook3607(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: "Frozen" Screws
>
> I'm interested. Are the torx screws that microfastener sells weaker
> than normal Phillips heads? I'd planned on using these in a few places
> and wasn't aware that they weren't as strong.
>
> Bryan Hooks
> RV-7A, Slow...very slow
> Knoxville, TN
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ned Thomas
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: "Frozen" Screws
>
>
> Be careful about the torx or even the square hole screws as they are
> generally not as strong as phillips head screws. One company makes the
> square head #8 screws with a smaller hole than standard in order to
> give
> greater strength to the screw. If interested I'll have to do a little
> searching to find out who it is.
>
- - - - - - - - - - - -
Historical e-mails pasted here:
1st E-mail:
AeroElectric-List message posted by: BAKEROCB(at)aol.com
10/18/2002
Hello Fellow Builders, Stainless steel, flat head, 100 degree countersink,
six lobe recess drive*, screws are now available in the following sizes with
Micro Fastener catalog numbers in ( ).
4-40X1/2 (FCMXS0408) T8 recess
6-32X ? (not quite available yet, but soon. Check with John at Micro
Fasteners)
8X32-5/8 (FCMXS0810) T15 recess**
10X32-3/4 (FCMXS1112) T20 recess
**You may recall that a previous batch of the 8X32 screws had T20 recess
drives. These screw heads did not have adequate strength and Micro Fastener
is shipping replacement T15 drive 8X32 screws to all who purchased the
earlier batch.
I'd like to emphasize that these are special configuration screws that are
not available elsewhere. Also these screws are intended for use in amateur
built experimental aircraft. While these screws were not manufactured to
NASM
/ MS 24694 standards I have personally installation tested the 8X32 size
screws and have received a report of strength testing that gives me
confidence in using these screws in my aircraft for structural purposes such
as fastening aluminum hinges to composite control and flight surfaces.
The decision to use these screws and the manner of their use rests with the
individual builder.
You may contact Micro Fasteners at: 800-892-6917 or email
<> web site is <<http://microfasteners.com>>
I request that you relay this posting to any group that you may be part of
that has members that could be interested in this information. Thank you.
'OC' Baker, Builder of KIS TR-1 #116 4/14/97 - ?/?/?
*PS: While there is no longer a patent in force for Torx drive screws the
name Torx is still a registered trademark. So manufacturers are making
screws
and drive tools entirely compatible with the Torx configuration and various
T
sizes, but not using the Torx name.
- - - - - - - - -
2nd e-mail:
Hi Don;
You can go direct to them and buy at;
http://www.microfasteners.com/catalog/products/SSCFCMXS.cfm
FCMXS0408 100 4-40 x 1/2 $ 8.50
FCMXS0810 100 8-32 x 5/8 $ 14.50
FCMXS1112 100 10-32 x 3/4 $ 15.80
S. Todd Bartrim
Turbo 13B rotary powered
RV-9endurance (FWF)
C-FSTB
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
3rd e-mail (torque test results - test which prompted change from T20 to T15
drive on -8 screws)
9/4/2002
Hello Fellow Builders, I have some bad news and some good news. The bad news
is that I don't think the current supply of subject screws from Micro
Fasteners is of adequate strength for structural purposes such as installing
control surface hinges on composite aircraft. The good news is that John
Fleisher hasn't given up on us.
Let me explain. I bought a supply of the subject screws from MF and gave
them
a rudimentary comparative installation strength test. The test consisted of
putting four separate AN 365 alloy steel nuts in a vise then screwing in one
of four different 8 X 32 screws into each nut using a torque wrench until
something failed. I will give the results for the four different screws
below:
A) Alloy steel MS24694 structual machine screw (minimum tensile strength of
125,000 PSI). Drive: Phillips. Failure torque: 32 in lbs. Remarks: Phillips
bit cammed out of head, unable to tighten any further.
B) 4037 high molybdenum steel alloy through hardened to surface Rockwell C
38-44 and having a tensile strength of 137-150 ksi. These screws were made
per the reqts of ANSI/ASME B18.3 of 1986. Drive: 3/32 inch hex socket
(Allen). Failure torque: 50 in lbs. Remarks: Screw socket stripped. (These
screws were obtained from MF some time ago as a special order and were very
expensive).
C) 302 stainless steel, unhardened, with tensile strength of 85 ksi min.
Made
per the reqts of ANSI/ASME B18.3 of 1986. Drive: 3/32 inch hex socket
(Allen). Failure torque: 30 in lbs. Remarks: Screw socket stripped. (These
screws were obtained from MF some time ago as a special order and were very
expensive).
D) 302 stainless steel. Drive: Torx 20. Failure torque: 50 in lbs. Remarks:
Screw head sheared off. Just obtained recently from MF. See further remarks
below.
Let me try to add some perspective / caveats to the above home grown tests.
These are what I called "installation failure tests". The screws failed as I
deliberately overstressed them with a torque wrench while simulating their
installation. This does not mean that they would suffer installation failure
as a person would install (or remove) them in a normal prudent manner.
An "installation failure" is not the same as an "in service failure" in my
terminology. For example if you installed non defective examples of either
screw A) or screw B) satisfactorily in your structure and then that
structure, while in service, placed a stress upon those screws they would
obviously withstand a greater load than satisfactorily installed
nondefective
screws C) or D) simply by virtue of the material that they were made of
aside
from any design considerations.
But I feel that screw D) does have a too high "in service failure" potential
caused by its design.. I say this based on my examination of the sheared off
screw head and shank. There just does not apprear to be enough material
left
between the screw shank and the screw head because of the size of the Torx
20
cavity. I do not plan to use them.
Where do we go from here? I'm not sure. I've already alerted John Fleisher
to
my concerns and he has responded with an email that I have copied below. I
have two recommendations:
1) Please pass this entire posting on to any group that you are a part of
that may be interested in this subject and who will not see it through just
this posting.
2) Let's let John work the problem for a while -- please be patient.
Manufacturing and stocking issues are also very significant financial issues
for small businessmen and they require some time to resolve.
As a final point of this posting I would point out that there are standard
specification structural fasteners (such as MS 24694 machine screws
--Phillips drive) and non structural fasteners (such as MS 24693 machine
screws -- Phillips drive) of various tensile strengths available to us as
builders of amateur built experimental aircraft.
What fasteners we choose to use and why we choose them are, within some
bounds of reason and common sense, the choice of the individual builder.
Please respect your fellow builder's prerogative to make that choice --
after
all, he is an experimenter.
Below my signature line follows the email that I received from John
Fleisher.
'OC' Baker, Builder of KIS TR-1 #116 4/14/97 - ?/?/?
Subj: Re: 8-32x5/8 100 degree flat head torx screws
Date: 09/04/2002 1:38:54 PM Eastern Daylight Time
From: microfasteners(at)hotmail.com (John Fleisher)
OC, I've been concerned about them since I got Camcar's technical book
onTorx
+ and saw that they recommend a T15 for 8-32 flat heads and we used aT20. I
had tried to twist them off here before then, and couldn't, so Irelaxed.
I had asked our manufacturer before ordering them about the size, and he
being less than the most communicative guy in the world said T20 was
the largest he could put on that head. When I spoke with him again today he
said T15 would be a lot easier. He's making up a new lot with the T15 heads
and we'll send you some in a week or two. Also of course we will replace any
we have shipped, to you and to others.
We continue to think that our guy is a competent mfr; this time around we'll
get some verification of the quality before shipping them.
Thanks for the headsup. John Micro Fasteners
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
I guess a related question might be are there places
on the plans that show the use of phillips screws for
structural fastening? I'm not aware of any, but...
Mickey
>I'm interested. Are the torx screws that microfastener sells weaker
>than normal Phillips heads? I'd planned on using these in a few places
>and wasn't aware that they weren't as strong.
>>Be careful about the torx or even the square hole screws as they are
>>generally not as strong as phillips head screws. ...
>
>--
>Mickey Coggins
>http://www.rv8.ch/
>#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
The torx screws in question are stainless and are not as strong as the
cad plated steel ones. I asked Van's if there would be a problem using
those screws in the place of the Phillips screws supplied with the kit.
Their reply was that there was no structural reason not to, but that
they haven't had any problems with the Phillips screws and, that since
you'd probably never have to pull the fuel tanks off anyway, you
wouldn't ever strip the heads on them and if you did, they'd be cheap
enough to replace. Stainless screws would also be harder to stick paint
to. I'm undecided still.
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mickey Coggins
Subject: RE: RV-List: "Frozen" Screws
I guess a related question might be are there places
on the plans that show the use of phillips screws for
structural fastening? I'm not aware of any, but...
Mickey
>I'm interested. Are the torx screws that microfastener sells weaker
>than normal Phillips heads? I'd planned on using these in a few places
>and wasn't aware that they weren't as strong.
>>Be careful about the torx or even the square hole screws as they are
>>generally not as strong as phillips head screws. ...
>
>--
>Mickey Coggins
>http://www.rv8.ch/
>#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us(at)hotmail.com> |
I have heard in the big industry that mechanics have used bo-lube. The stuff
for your drill bites.
>From: "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: "Frozen" Screws
>From: contains numbers mixed in with letters
>
>
>On occassion I find screws (#8 particularly) that stick and refuse to the
>removed...some so bad they have to be drilled out.
>
>I just finished my annual condition inspection and found three of the
>frozen
>screws...I replaced them (and others that were removed to open inspection
>plates, fairings, etc) with new stainless screws and put a dab of grease
>on
>the threads, hoping it will prevent screws from freeziing in their nut
>plates.
>
>I wondered: Would Torx-head screws be a better bet? The Phillips heads
>seem
>to simply 'ream out' too readily.
>
>What has worked for you?
>
>John
>
>
it's FREE! http://messenger.msn.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Chris W <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: "Frozen" Screws |
A while back another RV list member posted that he runs a set screws
with a good lubricant into the nut plates before he puts the flat head
screw in. The reasoning behind this is that set screws are made to
tighter thread fit standard and they will "loosen" up the fit in the nut
plate just enough that the screw will go in a little easier and there
will be less of a chance of breaking heads off. I haven't tried this
myself but it seems like a sound plan to me.
Chris W.
--
Bring Back the HP 15C
http://hp15c.org:8080
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "copperhead" <copperhead(at)tcmax.net> |
Ross,
I appreciate the offer to trade for the plans, however, I made a really good
deal for some spare -9 parts. I was really amazed at the number of e-mails
I got offering spares for various models and never realized there would be that
many parts left over... :-)
I also had a guy who dontated a several yards of nomex so the "little" woman
could sew me up as suit as he said from the content of my first post I'd probably
need, although I am not certain what he meant by that.
Chuck in Missouri # 90662
99.9% to go
(got the box open...OMG, this thing is in little pieces)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: "Frozen" Screws |
In a message dated 5/11/04 6:12:15 PM Central Daylight Time,
n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com writes:
> I wondered: Would Torx-head screws be a better bet? The Phillips heads
> seem
> to simply 'ream out' too readily.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
I used the SS torx from Microfasteners for almost everything- tanks, baggage
floor & side skins, rear glass, wheel pants & all fairings. The #15 bit is
your overtorque device as it will snap before the head strips, at least that is
what happened to the one screw out of hundreds that I ran up too tightly with
my cordless drill. Wouldn't trade 'em for Phillips for all the chea in
Tina...
SCREW Phillips screws at The PossumWorks in TN
Mark PHILLIPS
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: "Frozen" Screws |
In a message dated 5/12/2004 1:44:20 AM Eastern Daylight Time, bicyclop(at)pacbell.net
writes:
> since
> you'd probably never have to pull the fuel tanks off
> anyway, you
> wouldn't ever strip the heads on them
Don't bet on it. My tanks have been off twice in the 6 years I've had my 6A flying.
Once to fix leaks, once to replace a sunken float on the Van's resistive
fuel level sender.
I use all SS screws as replacements for the cad-plated ones; they may be less strong
but seem more resistant to getting buggered up in the removal process, and
stay nice and shiny when unpainted. Fuel lube in use for a thread lubricant,
tho' toilet bowl wax sounds perfect for the job, too.
BTW, I would have thought that holding the fuel tank on was a "structural" application.
Bill B / "Stormy"
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: "Frozen" Screws |
In a message dated 5/12/2004 9:32:57 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm(at)cox.net
writes:
> The reasoning behind this is that set screws are made to
> tighter thread fit standard and they will "loosen" up the fit in the nut
> plate just enough that the screw will go in a little easier
> and there
> will be less of a chance of breaking heads off.
Thread tap works well here, carefully used so as not to over do it and remove the
locking grip of the plate nuts. Mandatory on #6 nut plates, and a good idea
on the larger ones, too.
-Stormy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sandifer Eric <Eric.Sandifer(at)siemens.com> |
Subject: | Gear leg/socket drilling |
Hello,
I have ordered a new RV-3 engine mount and gear legs from Vans and am
looking for any advice/experience with drilling the retainer bolt hole
through the gear leg and socket. Seems this procedure would apply to the -4
and -6 as well. Any info regarding what kind of bit, drill, technique used
would be helpful. Anyone have a good way of aligning and clamping the gear
legs securely before drilling?
Thanks for any help anyone has to offer,
Eric Sandifer
________________________________________________________________________________
April 30, 2004 - May 12, 2004
RV-Archive.digest.vol-pg