RV-Archive.digest.vol-pi
May 25, 2004 - June 04, 2004
Once you have the basics of beam theory under control, you might
wish to get a demo copy of ANSYS. http://www.ansys.com/ansys/designspace.htm
You can then see how the stresses actually distribute. You will
discover that, near the ends, beams don't behave like anything resembling
beam theory.
What you will come to realize, is that mechanical (structural)
engineering is not nearly as neat and tidy as electrical engineering is.
Nearly every project is a tangled ball of twine without a straightforward
solution. Unlike electrical components, mechanical components often can't
be modeled with simple equations. Electrical engineers moan when faced with
transmission line or antenna design because every component effects every
other component in a non-linear manner. These non-linear problems are
typical for mechanical engineers. You can calculate the voltage and current
with great accuracy in every part of a very complex circuit, but you can
only take an educated guess as to the stress distribution in a crankshaft.
Even with the best stress analysis software, you know the answer is
probably no better than plus or minus 10%.
Unlike electrical engineers, mechanical engineers are not upset
when they cannot have an exact solution. They are not upset with what they
know is a crappy solution, as long as they are confident that the solution
is within safe bounds and probably won't fail. They are comfortable with a
percentage of uncertainty, because they have no choice.
Since you are working on a mechanical project, you must cultivate
a more relaxed attitude towards an unavoidable degree of uncertainty.
Bill Dube'
I have a degree in mechanical engineering, and very nearly a degree in
electrical engineering, so I am uniquely qualified to understand your
dilemma. I can take the persecutive of either (or both) type of engineer.
Check out my LED position lights at
<http://www.killacycle.com/Lights.htm>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Bending SS hinge pins |
In a message dated 5/24/04 2:11:23 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
Fiveonepw(at)aol.com writes:
>
> Hi Larry-
>
> I bent mine at 90 degrees, about 3/4" long and they still pull easily- I did
>
> it like this so the bent end can be inserted into a hole in a little piece
> of
> angle bonded to the inside of the skin with VHB tape to secure the pin. Has
>
> worked well so far, but I'd definately make them as long as practical- mine
> only come through the firewall about 7". I wish I'd made them at least 5 or
> 6
> inches longer, maybe more...
>
> From The PossumWorks in TN
> Mark -6A, flying 75 hrs
>
>
>
I found that some old motorcycle clutch or brake cables were exactly the
right size for bringing the hinge pins into the cockpit and anchoring them to the
side of the second bulkhead (F-902). I bent the end down about 1 1/2 inches,
then in at a slight forward angle about 3/8 inch, and slip it into a hole in
the bulkhead. That way there are no sharp ends sticking out, and the pin is
locked from coming back out. The hole is protected by a small piece of hard
stainless steel to keep from scratching the bulkhead. I clamped the cable with
2
6-32 screws through a .032 1/2 inch wide clamp bent around a drill bit in a
vise. Where it penetrates the firewall, another clamp was riveted through the
skin and firewall, and filled with Pro-seal. The cable jacket takes quite a
lot of force and needs to be anchored well.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (Went to the airport for final assy yesterday!)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
Subject: | I gotta Rocket!!!! |
All, and especially Gummi Bear,
After years of whining and crying on this list I finally got a Rocket!
Yippee!
Get in that Bird of yours Gummi Bear and get out here and we will rip up the
skies and find out who can fly ;-)
Mark Fredrick is now the proud owner of my SNB-4 (Twin Beech in laymans
Language) and I have the "Check Six" Rocket. I don't know what the plan is
for it right now, I've got a freind who wants to buy it.
What an airplane!
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
Rocketeer!
P.S. Now I have to come up with a new reason to hate Tom Gummo ;-)
(suggestions accepted)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Wing Skin Install question |
In a message dated 5/23/04 3:08:38 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
jdnewsum(at)qwest.net writes:
>
> Looking for advice on installing the top outboard wing skin on a RV6 QB -
> specifically where the top wing skin (W-603)and the leading edge skin
> (W-601) butt together along the front spar web flange (W-606).
>
> In the George Orndorf QB construction video, he dimples the skin and
> countersinks the wing spar flange. He makes the countersinking the spar
> flange part look easy but this looks tricky to me as the flange is only
> 0.040 thick and only 1/2 wide (not enough to support the width of the
> microstop countersink tool).
>
> The QB construction manual describes a method that calls for dimpling the
> rivet holes in 0.040 spare flange and additionally countersinks the dimple
> in the spar flange to slightly deepen it. (If I am reading the manual
> correctly)
>
> Also, should the edge of the W-603 skin along this rivet line need to be
> rolled so that it lays down flat?
>
> Any recommendations (do's or don'ts) advice would be appreciated.
>
>
I had the same problem. Take a piece of .040 or .062 aluminum about 1 by 3
inches and put a hole (about 1/2 inch) near one end of it. Hold this piece of
aluminum against the spar and countersink the spar through the hole. This
will give you a flat surface for the micro-stop countersink tool.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (At the airport for final assembly)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Bending SS hinge pins |
If you want to bend a tight radius in the pins, a propane torch won't
get it hot enough. Find someone with a oxy-propane (these can be bought
at any hardware store for 25 bucks or so) or an oxy-acetylene torch.
The pin needs to be red, then it will bend easily.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 472 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Mckenna" <mmckenna(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | when problems are problems, and when they're not |
"Stress Without Tears", by Tom Rhoads.
http://www.aircraft-spruce.com/catalog/bvpages/php/stress_wotears.php
Mike Mckenna
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jeff Cours
Subject: RV-List: when problems are problems, and when they're not
Can anyone recommend a book on aircraft structural engineering for
people whose eyes glaze over when they see greek letters in equations? I
don't mean an "acceptable repair methods" kind of thing: I'd really like
to be able to visualize the stresses in the airframe, so I can
understand why Van designed it the way he did.
thanks,
Jeff
_
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: I gotta Rocket!!!! |
Why not fly that new rocket down to Rebel's Bluff, and show it off to
Les Featherstone? Probably only take a half hour ..... He only had one
rocket show up last year at the first annual rocket and rv fly in.
It was a real winner.
Denis in Denver
On May 25, 2004, at 5:58 AM, Doug Rozendaal wrote:
>
> All, and especially Gummi Bear,
>
> After years of whining and crying on this list I finally got a Rocket!
> Yippee!
>
> Get in that Bird of yours Gummi Bear and get out here and we will rip
> up the
> skies and find out who can fly ;-)
>
> Mark Fredrick is now the proud owner of my SNB-4 (Twin Beech in
> laymans
> Language) and I have the "Check Six" Rocket. I don't know what the
> plan is
> for it right now, I've got a freind who wants to buy it.
>
> What an airplane!
>
> Tailwinds,
> Doug Rozendaal
> Rocketeer!
>
> P.S. Now I have to come up with a new reason to hate Tom Gummo ;-)
> (suggestions accepted)
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Moore, Warren" <Warren.Moore(at)tidelandsoil.com> |
Subject: | RV-4 elevator to horiz stab fitting problem |
If I remember correctly, on drawing 5a they give a dimension from the
bearing center to the elevator spar. I set my two bearings to this
dimension and there was four or more turns showing thru the nutplate. I
then attached the elevator to the HS, drilled the center bearing thru the
elevator horn, and then made the elevator tips to match the HS.
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Stoffel [mailto:rickstoffel(at)sbcglobal.net]
Subject: RV-List: RV-4 elevator to horiz stab fitting problem
Hello all,
This has me stumped and I couldn' t find this exact situation in the
archives. . .
When fitting my elevators to the HS Stab, I can only rotate the rod end
bearings about 3-4 times into the nutplates to make everything fit
perfectly. Any more rotations and the elevators begin to move too far
forward and the weighted arm sticks out in front of the Horizontal Stab.
It seems like a longer version of the HEIM 3614M bearing would be the best
choice to solve this but I can't find one (or an equivelant if there is
one). I'm guessing 3-4 rotations into the bearing is not enough, is it?
Thanks,
Rick
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Michael Schipper <mike(at)learningplanet.com> |
Subject: | Re: I gotta Rocket!!!! |
For those of us who have joined the list in the past year, could
someone please explain the apparent lack of love between RV builders
and Rocket builders? Or is this all just in good natured fun?
Mike Schipper
-9a Wings
www.my9a.com
On May 25, 2004, at 9:08 AM, Denis Walsh wrote:
>
> Why not fly that new rocket down to Rebel's Bluff, and show it off to
> Les Featherstone? Probably only take a half hour ..... He only had one
> rocket show up last year at the first annual rocket and rv fly in.
>
> It was a real winner.
>
> Denis in Denver
> On May 25, 2004, at 5:58 AM, Doug Rozendaal wrote:
>
>>
>> All, and especially Gummi Bear,
>>
>> After years of whining and crying on this list I finally got a Rocket!
>> Yippee!
>>
>> Get in that Bird of yours Gummi Bear and get out here and we will rip
>> up the
>> skies and find out who can fly ;-)
>>
>> Mark Fredrick is now the proud owner of my SNB-4 (Twin Beech in
>> laymans
>> Language) and I have the "Check Six" Rocket. I don't know what the
>> plan is
>> for it right now, I've got a freind who wants to buy it.
>>
>> What an airplane!
>>
>> Tailwinds,
>> Doug Rozendaal
>> Rocketeer!
>>
>> P.S. Now I have to come up with a new reason to hate Tom Gummo ;-)
>> (suggestions accepted)
>>
>>
>> _-
>> ======================================================================
>> >> _-
>> ======================================================================
>> >> _-
>> ======================================================================
>> >> _-
>> ======================================================================
>> >>>
>>
>>
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com> |
Subject: | when problems are problems, and when they're not |
Alex Strojnick did a series of three books on low power laminar flow
aircraft design. One of them is "Low Power Laminar Aircraft Structures". I
am traveling now and am not 100% sure on that title. All three books are
good. I hear "Stress Without Tears" is very good also, but do not have that
one yet.
Not directly related to your question, but "Simplified Aircraft Design for
Homebuilders" by Dan Raymer is an excelent design book, fairly low cost, and
doesn't need an engineering degree to understand. www.aircraftdesign.com is
Raymer's web site and has all of the above mentioned books for sale.
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill Dube
Subject: Re: RV-List: when problems are problems, and when they're not
>
>
>Can anyone recommend a book on aircraft structural engineering for
>people whose eyes glaze over when they see greek letters in equations? I
>don't mean an "acceptable repair methods" kind of thing: I'd really like
>to be able to visualize the stresses in the airframe, so I can
>understand why Van designed it the way he did.
Marks' Mechanical Engineers' Handbook (McGraw-Hill)
Older editions of Marks' are better than newer editions, in my
opinion.
Once you have the basics of beam theory under control, you might
wish to get a demo copy of ANSYS. http://www.ansys.com/ansys/designspace.htm
You can then see how the stresses actually distribute. You will
discover that, near the ends, beams don't behave like anything resembling
beam theory.
What you will come to realize, is that mechanical (structural)
engineering is not nearly as neat and tidy as electrical engineering is.
Nearly every project is a tangled ball of twine without a straightforward
solution. Unlike electrical components, mechanical components often can't
be modeled with simple equations. Electrical engineers moan when faced with
transmission line or antenna design because every component effects every
other component in a non-linear manner. These non-linear problems are
typical for mechanical engineers. You can calculate the voltage and current
with great accuracy in every part of a very complex circuit, but you can
only take an educated guess as to the stress distribution in a crankshaft.
Even with the best stress analysis software, you know the answer is
probably no better than plus or minus 10%.
Unlike electrical engineers, mechanical engineers are not upset
when they cannot have an exact solution. They are not upset with what they
know is a crappy solution, as long as they are confident that the solution
is within safe bounds and probably won't fail. They are comfortable with a
percentage of uncertainty, because they have no choice.
Since you are working on a mechanical project, you must cultivate
a more relaxed attitude towards an unavoidable degree of uncertainty.
Bill Dube'
I have a degree in mechanical engineering, and very nearly a degree in
electrical engineering, so I am uniquely qualified to understand your
dilemma. I can take the persecutive of either (or both) type of engineer.
Check out my LED position lights at
<http://www.killacycle.com/Lights.htm>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | I gotta Rocket!!!! |
From: | "Rabaut, Chuck" <Chuck.Rabaut(at)fresnosheriff.org> |
Well Mike, you have to realize...
"They" ARE, better than "Us" (speaking as an RV-4 guy and wishin' I had a Rocket,
but not the added expense).
... and what are you referring to as "good natured fun" ? :-}
Chuck
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Michael Schipper
Subject: Re: RV-List: I gotta Rocket!!!!
For those of us who have joined the list in the past year, could
someone please explain the apparent lack of love between RV builders
and Rocket builders? Or is this all just in good natured fun?
Mike Schipper
-9a Wings
www.my9a.com
On May 25, 2004, at 9:08 AM, Denis Walsh wrote:
>
> Why not fly that new rocket down to Rebel's Bluff, and show it off to
> Les Featherstone? Probably only take a half hour ..... He only had one
> rocket show up last year at the first annual rocket and rv fly in.
>
> It was a real winner.
>
> Denis in Denver
> On May 25, 2004, at 5:58 AM, Doug Rozendaal wrote:
>
>>
>> All, and especially Gummi Bear,
>>
>> After years of whining and crying on this list I finally got a Rocket!
>> Yippee!
>>
>> Get in that Bird of yours Gummi Bear and get out here and we will rip
>> up the
>> skies and find out who can fly ;-)
>>
>> Mark Fredrick is now the proud owner of my SNB-4 (Twin Beech in
>> laymans
>> Language) and I have the "Check Six" Rocket. I don't know what the
>> plan is
>> for it right now, I've got a freind who wants to buy it.
>>
>> What an airplane!
>>
>> Tailwinds,
>> Doug Rozendaal
>> Rocketeer!
>>
>> P.S. Now I have to come up with a new reason to hate Tom Gummo ;-)
>> (suggestions accepted)
>>
>>
>> _-
>> ======================================================================
>> >> _-
>> ======================================================================
>> >> _-
>> ======================================================================
>> >> _-
>> ======================================================================
>> >>>
>>
>>
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
I installed mine in the right wing of a 6 right in the middle of the
inspection panel.
There is a rib that goes through there so I was able to use the plate
supplied by Gretz to catch the spar flange and the rib flange. It also
allows one to modify the inspection cover rather than the lower wing skin.
I did have to bend some joggles in the plate to get it to lay behind the
flanges with nut plates, but the center mount area lays flat against the
inspection panel.
All is installed with flush screws so it comes out easily to get into the
wing, or to remove completely.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Michael Schipper <mike(at)learningplanet.com> |
Subject: | Re: I gotta Rocket!!!! |
Ah, airplane envy. I get that every time I meet someone who actually
gets to FLY his airplane. :-)
Mike Schipper
-9a Wings
www.my9a.com
On May 25, 2004, at 12:00 PM, Rabaut, Chuck wrote:
>
>
> Well Mike, you have to realize...
>
> "They" ARE, better than "Us" (speaking as an RV-4 guy and wishin' I
> had a Rocket, but not the added expense).
> ... and what are you referring to as "good natured fun" ? :-}
> Chuck
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Michael
> Schipper
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: I gotta Rocket!!!!
>
>
>
>
> For those of us who have joined the list in the past year, could
> someone please explain the apparent lack of love between RV builders
> and Rocket builders? Or is this all just in good natured fun?
>
> Mike Schipper
> -9a Wings
> www.my9a.com
>
>
> On May 25, 2004, at 9:08 AM, Denis Walsh wrote:
>
>>
>> Why not fly that new rocket down to Rebel's Bluff, and show it off to
>> Les Featherstone? Probably only take a half hour ..... He only had
>> one
>> rocket show up last year at the first annual rocket and rv fly in.
>>
>> It was a real winner.
>>
>> Denis in Denver
>> On May 25, 2004, at 5:58 AM, Doug Rozendaal wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> All, and especially Gummi Bear,
>>>
>>> After years of whining and crying on this list I finally got a
>>> Rocket!
>>> Yippee!
>>>
>>> Get in that Bird of yours Gummi Bear and get out here and we will rip
>>> up the
>>> skies and find out who can fly ;-)
>>>
>>> Mark Fredrick is now the proud owner of my SNB-4 (Twin Beech in
>>> laymans
>>> Language) and I have the "Check Six" Rocket. I don't know what the
>>> plan is
>>> for it right now, I've got a freind who wants to buy it.
>>>
>>> What an airplane!
>>>
>>> Tailwinds,
>>> Doug Rozendaal
>>> Rocketeer!
>>>
>>> P.S. Now I have to come up with a new reason to hate Tom Gummo ;-)
>>> (suggestions accepted)
>>>
>>>
>>> _-
>>> =====================================================================
>>> >>>>> _-
>>> =====================================================================
>>> >>>>> _-
>>> =====================================================================
>>> >>>>> _-
>>> =====================================================================
>>> >>>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> _-
>> ======================================================================
>> >> _-
>> ======================================================================
>> >> _-
>> ======================================================================
>> >> _-
>> ======================================================================
>> >>>
>>
>>
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
Subject: | Re: I gotta Rocket!!!! |
For those of us who have joined the list in the past year, could
someone please explain the apparent lack of love between RV builders
and Rocket builders? Or is this all just in good natured fun?
Mike Schipper
It is All in good fun!
Tom Gummo hates me because I fly Warbirds and I hate him because he has a
Rocket. I gotta Rocket now so I have to have a new reason to hate him.
Tailwinds,
Doug "I Gotta Rocket" Rozendaal
John Starn offered this list of good reasons offline but it is worth
sharing:
#1: You fly very low & fast (seat pucker time) over the desert. Look up to
find out Gummibears location only to see him flash by at half your
altitude.
#2: How many "Top Gun" plaques he's earned. (Too many to count. One from
each Sq. on the wall. duplicates are in a box somewhere)
#3: How many blades does your prop have ?
If it's not five or more, hes gotcha again.
#4: He claims the jack rabbits really can jump 25' vertically, that's how he
got the fir in the wheel pants.
#5: On top of it all he happens to be really GREAT guy.
#6: I had to send this off-list because he wouldn't want me to brag on him.
Please advise if you need more. 8*) KABONG
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jeff Cours <rv-j(at)moriarti.org> |
Subject: | Re: when problems are problems, and when they're not |
Thanks for the info, everyone -- I'm developing quite a reading list!
Yesterday, I was trying to put a little humor in my message and I think
I might've given the wrong impression. I didn't mean to come across as
complaining that I screw up too often. Actually, there are a couple
things going on here.
The first is building.
One reason I'm building an airplane because I like to build things. I
try not to make mistakes, but I'm a lot more used to working in wood
than aluminum, so once in a while a mistake's going to happen. Also,
every once in a great while I might come across a part that slipped in
tooling or otherwise looks a little odd. When I see a mistake, or
there's a strange looking part, I call Van's, find out whether or not
it's a problem, and if it is, I replace the part. Some mistakes, like
punching an extra hole in a skin, aren't structural problems. Since I'm
not out to build a show plane, in that case I probably wouldn't be
inclined to order a new skin. On the other hand, if it's a structural or
longevity issue, I have no qualms about replacing the part.
At the building level, I'm just fine working with Vans' recommendations
and AC43-13.
The second level is learning.
Another reason I'm building an airplane is to learn how an airplane goes
together -- and why. That's the level that's pushing me towards the
books. When I got my pilots license, I had to learn the basics of how a
pitot-static system works, how the fuel system works, etc. Now that I'm
building a plane, I want to know the basics of how the structure works.
Also, there are some really fundamental questions that've been nagging
me, like why stress concentrates. What, mechanically, is going on at a
stress riser? And how is it related to work hardening? You know, the
kinds of questions you think about when you're deburring the thousandth
hole of the day. :-)
So, yeah, I probably should just tune the radio to a game and get on
with building, but I'll probably wind up ordering some books and slowly
working my way through them as I build.
Anyway, thanks again for the recommendations!
- Jeff
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn(at)verizon.net> |
Subject: | Re: I gotta Rocket!!!! |
GEE THANKS Doug. Now ya went and done it. BUT beware there are those on the
lists that think there is no room for humor. Most of my posts are either to
share what we learned in building N561FS or to share in the fun of getting
to know all those on the lists. Most times I have my tongue shoved so far
into my cheek that it wraps around my eye teeth so I can't see what I'm
saying. IMNSHO HRII is just another form of an RV. I like them all and the
people who build/fly them. Our hanger is always open. KABONG Do Not
Archive 8*)
>
>
> For those of us who have joined the list in the past year, could
> someone please explain the apparent lack of love between RV builders
> and Rocket builders? Or is this all just in good natured fun?
>
> Mike Schipper
>
>
> It is All in good fun!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
Subject: | Re: [RV10] Re: Landing Lights |
rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com, RV10(at)yahoogroups.com
Should be at least 25% brighter than my Halogens, probably more, quite a but
less heat, and half the current draw... I should know more in a week or
two...
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Lauritsen" <mike(at)cleavelandtool.com>
Subject: [RV10] Re: Landing Lights
How does the light output and heat compare to your originals?
Thanks,
Mike
On 05/24 10:09, Bill VonDane wrote:
> I will have HID's (25w HID / Metal Halide lamps) available soon that
> will fit in the same space my current Halogen lamps...
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
http://us.click.yahoo.com/Z1wmxD/DREIAA/yQLSAA/1yWplB/TM
<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV10/
<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
RV10-unsubscribe(at)yahoogroups.com
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Andy Karmy <andy(at)karmy.com> |
Subject: | Electronic Ignition Problem? |
Let me start with my base assumption. I was under the impression that
electronic ignition worked better than mags under all conditions. Less
or no RPM drop at mag check time, better burn, quicker start, etc etc
etc. So far so good?
What I see:
At 1800 rpm doing mag check, both the electronic ign and the mag give
equal drops in RPM. In flight at hi-cruise if I switch off the mag I
get VERY rough running, with backfire pop of unburned fuel until I
switch the mag back on. Turning off the electronic ign the mag works
fine by itself with a slight RPM drop. What's going on here?
My setup: 0-320-D2A Carb based, 1 Slick, 1 Jeff Rose Electro-Air with
mag hole sensor
Conditions of test:
2550 RPM
26.0 MAP
60 OAT
107 Carb Temp
350 CHT
1366 EGT
18 deg Advance on Electronic ign
10.7 GPH
3500FT ALT
- Andy Karmy
RV9A Seattle WA
andy(at)karmy.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Party time / Dishwasher parts cleaning for acid etch & alodine |
The following may be such common knowledge that no one has bothered to
talk about it, but I found nothing in the archives. I hope some new guy
finds the info useful.
I remember someone on some list somewhere joking about sneaking parts
into the dishwasher for cleaning before etch/alodine. After a couple of
tiring & inconsistently effective sessions with the Dawn dishwashing
detergent & a scotchbrite pad, I decided to try it. With my wife's
blessing I loaded up the family dishwasher with ribs (even the -7's main
wing ribs fit), stiffeners, etc. & threw in some fuel tank plumbing
parts for good measure. Cleaning chemical was standard Electro Sol
dishwashing detergent.
In a word, Awesome! No muss, no fuss, just load up anything that will
fit & don your rubber gloves to unload the washer when it's finished
doing its thing. If you could fit the whole plane in there, you could
alodine & have a perfect gold finish with no blotches, runs, or missed
spots, & if you care for gold, a virtually weightless paint job to boot.
If anyone knows of a downside to this, please speak up now.
(Obviously, lack of support or at least indifference from your spouse is
one downside, but I'm talking a/c safety issues, not domestic
tranquility issues.)
The only side effect I noticed was that one pretty blue a/c quality nut
for the tank plumbing came out looking like it went in, and another lost
almost all its 'blue'. (?)
Charlie
Getting 'tanked' & getting ready to serve BBQ on June 5 here at Slobovia
Outernational in Mississippi. Ya'll come.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Party time / Dishwasher parts cleaning for acid etch & alodine |
The following may be such common knowledge that no one has bothered to
talk about it, but I found nothing in the archives. I hope some new guy
finds the info useful.
I remember someone on some list somewhere joking about sneaking parts
into the dishwasher for cleaning before etch/alodine. After a couple of
tiring & inconsistently effective sessions with the Dawn dishwashing
detergent & a scotchbrite pad, I decided to try it. With my wife's
blessing I loaded up the family dishwasher with ribs (even the -7's main
wing ribs fit), stiffeners, etc. & threw in some fuel tank plumbing
parts for good measure. Cleaning chemical was standard Electro Sol
dishwashing detergent.
In a word, Awesome! No muss, no fuss, just load up anything that will
fit & don your rubber gloves to unload the washer when it's finished
doing its thing. If you could fit the whole plane in there, you could
alodine & have a perfect gold finish with no blotches, runs, or missed
spots, & if you care for gold, a virtually weightless paint job to boot.
If anyone knows of a downside to this, please speak up now.
(Obviously, lack of support or at least indifference from your spouse is
one downside, but I'm talking a/c safety issues, not domestic
tranquility issues.)
The only side effect I noticed was that one pretty blue a/c quality nut
for the tank plumbing came out looking like it went in, and another lost
almost all its 'blue'. (?)
Charlie
Getting 'tanked' & getting ready to serve BBQ on June 5 here at Slobovia
Outernational in Mississippi. Ya'll come.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Art Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net> |
Subject: | Re: Party time / Dishwasher parts cleaning for acid etch |
& alodine
I cleaned my C-85 in the dishwasher about 20 years ago and mentioned it
on this list. I might be the guy you were referring to. The grease
inside an engine is no worse and possibly less in quantity than that on
dishes. Every nook and cranny comes out clean.
Art Glaser
Charlie England wrote:
>
>The following may be such common knowledge that no one has bothered to
>talk about it, but I found nothing in the archives. I hope some new guy
>finds the info useful.
>
>I remember someone on some list somewhere joking about sneaking parts
>into the dishwasher for cleaning before etch/alodine. After a couple of
>tiring & inconsistently effective sessions with the Dawn dishwashing
>detergent & a scotchbrite pad, I decided to try it. With my wife's
>blessing I loaded up the family dishwasher with ribs (even the -7's main
>wing ribs fit), stiffeners, etc. & threw in some fuel tank plumbing
>parts for good measure. Cleaning chemical was standard Electro Sol
>dishwashing detergent.
>
>In a word, Awesome! No muss, no fuss, just load up anything that will
>fit & don your rubber gloves to unload the washer when it's finished
>doing its thing. If you could fit the whole plane in there, you could
>alodine & have a perfect gold finish with no blotches, runs, or missed
>spots, & if you care for gold, a virtually weightless paint job to boot.
>
>If anyone knows of a downside to this, please speak up now.
>
>(Obviously, lack of support or at least indifference from your spouse is
>one downside, but I'm talking a/c safety issues, not domestic
>tranquility issues.)
>
>The only side effect I noticed was that one pretty blue a/c quality nut
>for the tank plumbing came out looking like it went in, and another lost
>almost all its 'blue'. (?)
>
>Charlie
>Getting 'tanked' & getting ready to serve BBQ on June 5 here at Slobovia
>Outernational in Mississippi. Ya'll come.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition Problem? |
Andy,
Have you checked your wire terminal ends at the spark plug? I know that
Jeff's system is very susceptible to misfires if the ends are not properly
done. And it's not easy to get them right in my opinion. As you know, he
says to insert the little spring end into the wire end next to the spiral
core. The trick is keep the inserted spring wire next to the center core.
There will be a tendency for the spring end to wander towards the outside of
the wire away from the core center. If this happens, you will get misfires
evidenced by small black dots inside the spark plug on the ceramic insulator
material. Look inside all of your plugs and where you see the tell-tale
back dots, you need to re-work the little spring ends. I have found that if
you carefully insert the end parallel to the core, you can actually feel the
wire rubbing against the center core as you insert the spring. Go slow and
deliberate and you will get them right. Once you get these ends right your
problems will disappear.
Hope this helps.
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 All Flying
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com>
Subject: RV-List: Electronic Ignition Problem?
>
> Let me start with my base assumption. I was under the impression that
> electronic ignition worked better than mags under all conditions. Less
> or no RPM drop at mag check time, better burn, quicker start, etc etc
> etc. So far so good?
>
> What I see:
>
> At 1800 rpm doing mag check, both the electronic ign and the mag give
> equal drops in RPM. In flight at hi-cruise if I switch off the mag I
> get VERY rough running, with backfire pop of unburned fuel until I
> switch the mag back on. Turning off the electronic ign the mag works
> fine by itself with a slight RPM drop. What's going on here?
>
> My setup: 0-320-D2A Carb based, 1 Slick, 1 Jeff Rose Electro-Air with
> mag hole sensor
>
> Conditions of test:
>
> 2550 RPM
> 26.0 MAP
> 60 OAT
> 107 Carb Temp
> 350 CHT
> 1366 EGT
> 18 deg Advance on Electronic ign
> 10.7 GPH
> 3500FT ALT
>
>
> - Andy Karmy
> RV9A Seattle WA
> andy(at)karmy.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition Problem? |
Andy, it sounds to me like you got a spark problem from the EI. This should
be discussed with Jeff Rose to find the source. It could be the plug wires,
or how the tips are installed. Maybe a timing thing. Do you have the meter
that shows the degrees of advance? Something is very wrong and it should be
addressed IMHO.
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp (not flying yet, but getting closer)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com>
Subject: RV-List: Electronic Ignition Problem?
>
> Let me start with my base assumption. I was under the impression that
> electronic ignition worked better than mags under all conditions. Less
> or no RPM drop at mag check time, better burn, quicker start, etc etc
> etc. So far so good?
>
> What I see:
>
> At 1800 rpm doing mag check, both the electronic ign and the mag give
> equal drops in RPM. In flight at hi-cruise if I switch off the mag I
> get VERY rough running, with backfire pop of unburned fuel until I
> switch the mag back on. Turning off the electronic ign the mag works
> fine by itself with a slight RPM drop. What's going on here?
>
> My setup: 0-320-D2A Carb based, 1 Slick, 1 Jeff Rose Electro-Air with
> mag hole sensor
>
> Conditions of test:
>
> 2550 RPM
> 26.0 MAP
> 60 OAT
> 107 Carb Temp
> 350 CHT
> 1366 EGT
> 18 deg Advance on Electronic ign
> 10.7 GPH
> 3500FT ALT
>
>
> - Andy Karmy
> RV9A Seattle WA
> andy(at)karmy.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
Subject: | Sliding Canopy Instruction Question? |
The instructions say:
Before you do anthing else, determine and mark which holes will receive
rivets directly, and which one will contact dimpled aluminum...
Is this just because the one that will cantact dimpled aluminum will be
countersunk deeper?
I think this means that the only holes that will receive rivets directly
are the ones on the frt. bow. does this sound right?
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
rv-list
Subject: | unsolicited email from SportFlyingShop.com |
Anybody else getting unsolicited email from www.SportFlyingShop.com
after visiting their website.
I am pretty sure I did NOT sign up for anything, just had a brief look
after I read an email here on the list.
Darn anyoing, I know I won't visit their site anymore.
Gert
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov> |
Subject: | Interesting LED position lights on Ebay |
I noticed that someone is selling LED position lights on Ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2479464181&category=26438
Quite a bit more money than the LED Position Light kits that I sell:
http://www.killacycle.com/Lights.htm
Has anyone seen the ones on Ebay in person? Anyone know anything about
them?
Bill Dube'
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | PSPRV6A(at)aol.com (by way of Matt Dralle <nospam(at)matronics.com>) |
Subject: | Re: RV7 Vibration |
RV7 Vibration
This happened 27years ago but might be pertinent: My brother & I purchased
a spanking new 172 and found everything OK except for engine-speed
vibration. Balancing the prop made almost no improvement. We took the
prop off & brought it to Maxwell Prop Shop here in the twin cities.
They found that the BLADE WIDTH (chord) was different by 1/8", causing
more lift on one blade than the other. That gives an unbalanced rotating
force vector! Maxwell corrected this and smoothness went from quite poor
to exceptional! This should be considered before giving up! Still just as
smooth after 27 years!
Paul S.
Petersen, RV6A with son Eric, 90%done
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com> |
Subject: | Re: Interesting LED position lights on Ebay |
they look pretty cool
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Dube" <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov>
Subject: RV-List: Interesting LED position lights on Ebay
I noticed that someone is selling LED position lights on Ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2479464181&category=26438
Quite a bit more money than the LED Position Light kits that I sell:
http://www.killacycle.com/Lights.htm
Has anyone seen the ones on Ebay in person? Anyone know anything
about them?
Bill Dube'
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave & Darlene" <dnimigon(at)telusplanet.net> |
Hi All
'm in the process of getting together metal, etc for my XL. I live in Alberta,
just west of Edmonton. I'm looking for a builder who might have some extra metal
kicking around. I realize there are many different sizes of angles,sheeting
that we need. I can access the most common, but there are some that can only
be ordered by the 4x12 sheet. Most of the sheet is never needed and there
seems to be much left over. I would be willing to pay fair price plus shipping.
I just think this would be a lettle more less expensive then buying a whole
sheet or a long length of angle only to use a small piece of it. It would probably
only be worthwhile getting this from a canadian as shipping cross the
border can get expensive. Any thoughts from the group are welcome.
Dave
dnimigon(at)telusplanet.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
Subject: | Electronic Ignition Problem? |
I suggest a call to Jef Rose.
He will gladly walk you through diagnosing this.
Sounds like a loose wire or timing pickup offset but Jeff will be able to
get you sorted out.
We have the Jeff Rose system and on mag check, we get drop on mag and
basically no drop on EI only (the EI is dominating carrying the load so to
speak.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Andy Karmy
> Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2004 4:58 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Electronic Ignition Problem?
>
>
> Let me start with my base assumption. I was under the impression that
> electronic ignition worked better than mags under all conditions. Less
> or no RPM drop at mag check time, better burn, quicker start, etc etc
> etc. So far so good?
>
> What I see:
>
> At 1800 rpm doing mag check, both the electronic ign and the mag give
> equal drops in RPM. In flight at hi-cruise if I switch off the mag I
> get VERY rough running, with backfire pop of unburned fuel until I
> switch the mag back on. Turning off the electronic ign the mag works
> fine by itself with a slight RPM drop. What's going on here?
>
> My setup: 0-320-D2A Carb based, 1 Slick, 1 Jeff Rose Electro-Air with
> mag hole sensor
>
> Conditions of test:
>
> 2550 RPM
> 26.0 MAP
> 60 OAT
> 107 Carb Temp
> 350 CHT
> 1366 EGT
> 18 deg Advance on Electronic ign
> 10.7 GPH
> 3500FT ALT
>
>
> - Andy Karmy
> RV9A Seattle WA
> andy(at)karmy.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition Problem? |
Double check your timing. Once upon a time I had a similar problem that was
caused by incorrect timing on the EI.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Electronic Ignition Problem?
>
> I suggest a call to Jef Rose.
>
> He will gladly walk you through diagnosing this.
>
> Sounds like a loose wire or timing pickup offset but Jeff will be able to
> get you sorted out.
>
> We have the Jeff Rose system and on mag check, we get drop on mag and
> basically no drop on EI only (the EI is dominating carrying the load so to
> speak.
>
> James
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Andy Karmy
> > Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2004 4:58 PM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV-List: Electronic Ignition Problem?
> >
> >
> >
> > Let me start with my base assumption. I was under the impression that
> > electronic ignition worked better than mags under all conditions. Less
> > or no RPM drop at mag check time, better burn, quicker start, etc etc
> > etc. So far so good?
> >
> > What I see:
> >
> > At 1800 rpm doing mag check, both the electronic ign and the mag give
> > equal drops in RPM. In flight at hi-cruise if I switch off the mag I
> > get VERY rough running, with backfire pop of unburned fuel until I
> > switch the mag back on. Turning off the electronic ign the mag works
> > fine by itself with a slight RPM drop. What's going on here?
> >
> > My setup: 0-320-D2A Carb based, 1 Slick, 1 Jeff Rose Electro-Air with
> > mag hole sensor
> >
> > Conditions of test:
> >
> > 2550 RPM
> > 26.0 MAP
> > 60 OAT
> > 107 Carb Temp
> > 350 CHT
> > 1366 EGT
> > 18 deg Advance on Electronic ign
> > 10.7 GPH
> > 3500FT ALT
> >
> >
> > - Andy Karmy
> > RV9A Seattle WA
> > andy(at)karmy.com
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV7 Vibration |
At 18:57 2004-05-25, you wrote:
>)
>
> RV7 Vibration
>This happened 27years ago but might be pertinent: My brother & I purchased
>a spanking new 172 and found everything OK except for engine-speed
>vibration. Balancing the prop made almost no improvement. We took the
>prop off & brought it to Maxwell Prop Shop here in the twin cities.
> They found that the BLADE WIDTH (chord) was different by 1/8", causing
>more lift on one blade than the other. That gives an unbalanced rotating
>force vector! Maxwell corrected this and smoothness went from quite poor
>to exceptional! This should be considered before giving up! Still just as
>smooth after 27 years!
> Paul S.
>Petersen, RV6A with son Eric, 90%done
I found this same problem on a wood prop that originally came with my
RV-4. I spent many hours trying to balance the prop then discovered one
blade was smaller than the other when it balanced. Never could get the
vibs out of that prop. It's now a wall ornament and part time test club.
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
13B in gestation mode, RD-1C, EC-2
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ron Walker" <ron(at)walker.net> |
Subject: | Re: Interesting LED position lights on Ebay |
At $350, no wonder there are no bids.
I've installed your lights ... and show them off at every opportunity.
Always gets interest.
Ron
You doing a white tail light anytime soon ?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Dube" <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov>
Subject: RV-List: Interesting LED position lights on Ebay
>
> I noticed that someone is selling LED position lights on Ebay:
>
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2479464181&category=26438
>
> Quite a bit more money than the LED Position Light kits that I sell:
> http://www.killacycle.com/Lights.htm
>
> Has anyone seen the ones on Ebay in person? Anyone know anything
about them?
>
> Bill Dube'
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Warren Hurd <warren(at)ahyup.com> |
Subject: | Re: Interesting LED position lights on Ebay |
The 1 watt Luxeon Star LED is bright, they also have three and five watt
LED's. I have bought a couple of flashlights with the Luxeon LED's They
are truly amazing. I have thought of using a series of them for landing
lights. A series of three watt LED arrays in the leading edge would
give 648 lumens, and a retro fighter effect. Then a low level run
with the "guns" a blazing would make quite an effect. LED's unlike HID's
can blink very fast. Here is a link to a flashlight with the type of
optic I was considering.
http://elektrolumens.com/Tri_Star_Phazer/Tri-Star-Phazer.html
Warren
90454
htttp://ahyup.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com> |
Subject: | Re: Interesting LED position lights on Ebay |
I probably have more hours into developing LED landing lights than about
anybody out there. I have run a lot of light level tests and tried about
every kind of optic there is including some custom made optics. I have
found that the Luxeon's numbers don't quite add up. The problem is that
they don't dissipate heat effectively from the die to the heat sink and the
light level drops off dramaticaly as soon as the die temperature comes up,
whis is almost instantly. When you do a lot of testing you also find that
the 3 and 5W Luxeons don't really give a much brighter beam than the 1W,
again because of the temperature problems.
The Luxeon looks bright until you turn it off and then turn on a GE 4509
100W landing light. That is when you realize that the Luxeon isn't even in
the same league as the GE bulb. I compared an array of nine Luxeons with
CAD Research reflectors against the GE.
I am currently working with some newer LED technologies that show some
promise. I have 30 or 40 1W Luxeon stars if anyone wants them for $5.00
each, minimum quantity 5.
In the meantime, take a look at my fiber optic instrument lights at
www.engalt.com/aviation.htm. I have recently changed to a much brighter LED
light source. I am buying a special LED from Korea with four LED dice in
one package. The current draw is now 75mA and the light source is under
half the size. I have not had a chance to take new pictures and put them on
the web site yet. Wicks also carries them and will have the newer light
sources in a few days. http://www.jpmaircraftinstruments.com also has them.
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Warren Hurd
Subject: RV-List: Re: Interesting LED position lights on Ebay
The 1 watt Luxeon Star LED is bright, they also have three and five watt
LED's. I have bought a couple of flashlights with the Luxeon LED's They
are truly amazing. I have thought of using a series of them for landing
lights. A series of three watt LED arrays in the leading edge would
give 648 lumens, and a retro fighter effect. Then a low level run
with the "guns" a blazing would make quite an effect. LED's unlike HID's
can blink very fast. Here is a link to a flashlight with the type of
optic I was considering.
http://elektrolumens.com/Tri_Star_Phazer/Tri-Star-Phazer.html
Warren
90454
htttp://ahyup.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | GB <microsys(at)alltel.net> |
Subject: | rv-8 seats for sale |
Hello,
Posting for a friend:
front and back seats for an RV-8, used less than 40 hours. Vinyl
construction, light gray,
excellent condition. Selling because upgraded to leather.
$150 plus shipping.
please respond to: skykingrv8(at)mchsi.com
Thanks,
Glen
Moultrie, GA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson(at)consolidated.net> |
Subject: | Re: Interesting LED position lights on Ebay |
Bill Dube wrote:
>
> I noticed that someone is selling LED position lights on Ebay:
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2479464181&category=26438
>
> Quite a bit more money than the LED Position Light kits that I sell:
> http://www.killacycle.com/Lights.htm
>
> Has anyone seen the ones on Ebay in person? Anyone know anything about
them?
>
> Bill Dube'
I have yours and I like the lite yours puts out better. Even the pictures of yours
and the EBAY
ones shows yours to have a better concentration of light in all directions. plus
the fact that
the cost of his would buy four or five sets of yours...
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ross Schlotthauer" <rv7maker(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | when problems are problems, and when they're not |
Jeff,
If you want a good broad based understanding of all structures that isn't
too technical, I would recommend "Structures: Or, Why Things Don't Fall
Down". You can get it from Amazon for about 13 bucks. The ISBN =
0306801515. I think you would enjoy reading it and it may help you to
understand some of the basic stuctural theories.
-Ross Schlotthauer
RV-7 wiring
www.experimentalair.com
>From: Jeff Cours <rv-j(at)moriarti.org>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: when problems are problems, and when they're not
>Date: Mon, 24 May 2004 11:53:30 -0700
>
>
>As I've been building this airplane, every few hours I run into
>something that's wrong. Maybe it's a rivet that's too close to the edge,
>maybe a place where I goofed and trimmed something to the wrong
>dimensions, and so on.
>
>When that happens, I e-mail Van's with a description of the thing, and
>sometimes a small picture, and get a prompt, helpful answer. Sometimes
>that answer is "it's fine, don't worry about it", and sometimes it's
>"yep, better replace it". Either answer is great 'cause it gets me back
>on track with the building.
>
>However, there's a problem. The problem is that I'm an engineer.
>
>Like most engineers, it really starts to bug me to work on something I
>don't understand. Unfortunately, I learned electrical and computer
>engineering, not aircraft structural engineering. That means my math's
>pretty weak and I couldn't calculate beam stresses to save my life.
>
>Right now, I'm getting this great practical education in what's right
>and what's wrong -- I goof, I find out if it's OK or not, and I learn --
>but an airplane is pretty complicated. At this rate it's going to take
>me 'till the next century of flight to screw up enough to understand
>this beast.
>
>Can anyone recommend a book on aircraft structural engineering for
>people whose eyes glaze over when they see greek letters in equations? I
>don't mean an "acceptable repair methods" kind of thing: I'd really like
>to be able to visualize the stresses in the airframe, so I can
>understand why Van designed it the way he did.
>
>thanks,
>Jeff
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: when problems are problems, and when they're not |
Hi Jeff,
I too am an engineer. Imagine this: I started life as a mechanic. I was
putting new hubs in bicycle wheels in grade school. You know, with all the
spokes removed. Worked on cars (self taught) -- was rebuilding friends
transmissions (in the mid 50s) when I was 13. When it was time to go to college
I went
into EE because I thought mechanical engineering was too simple! Of course,
now I know better. But, it is interesting to read your posts because that's how
I think too.
I spent 8 years of my life racing stock cars and trying to figure out how the
"hillbillies" (no offense to anyone) could go just as fast as an engineer!
College educated engineers tend to think "in the box!" I recently talked to a
college student who was taking a course called "Thinking out of the box." I
told her that it was my impression that colleges were there to teach everyone
to think alike. Quite a dilemma!
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (Engineered by Vans -- built by an engineer!)
In a message dated 5/25/04 1:47:14 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
rv-j(at)moriarti.org writes:
>
> Thanks for the info, everyone -- I'm developing quite a reading list!
>
> Yesterday, I was trying to put a little humor in my message and I think
> I might've given the wrong impression. I didn't mean to come across as
> complaining that I screw up too often. Actually, there are a couple
> things going on here.
>
> The first is building.
>
> One reason I'm building an airplane because I like to build things. I
> try not to make mistakes, but I'm a lot more used to working in wood
> than aluminum, so once in a while a mistake's going to happen. Also,
> every once in a great while I might come across a part that slipped in
> tooling or otherwise looks a little odd. When I see a mistake, or
> there's a strange looking part, I call Van's, find out whether or not
> it's a problem, and if it is, I replace the part. Some mistakes, like
> punching an extra hole in a skin, aren't structural problems. Since I'm
> not out to build a show plane, in that case I probably wouldn't be
> inclined to order a new skin. On the other hand, if it's a structural or
> longevity issue, I have no qualms about replacing the part.
>
> At the building level, I'm just fine working with Vans' recommendations
> and AC43-13.
>
> The second level is learning.
>
> Another reason I'm building an airplane is to learn how an airplane goes
> together -- and why. That's the level that's pushing me towards the
> books. When I got my pilots license, I had to learn the basics of how a
> pitot-static system works, how the fuel system works, etc. Now that I'm
> building a plane, I want to know the basics of how the structure works.
>
> Also, there are some really fundamental questions that've been nagging
> me, like why stress concentrates. What, mechanically, is going on at a
> stress riser? And how is it related to work hardening? You know, the
> kinds of questions you think about when you're deburring the thousandth
> hole of the day. :-)
>
> So, yeah, I probably should just tune the radio to a game and get on
> with building, but I'll probably wind up ordering some books and slowly
> working my way through them as I build.
>
> Anyway, thanks again for the recommendations!
>
> - Jeff
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov> |
Subject: | Re: Interesting LED position lights on Ebay |
>
>I have yours and I like the lite yours puts out better. Even the pictures
>of yours and the EBAY
>ones shows yours to have a better concentration of light in all directions.
It is always hard to judge via pictures alone. That is why I asked
if anyone had seen them in person. There are very specific FAA requirements
for the light output at each angle along the horizon as well as in
elevation. Looking at the picture (and knowing the specs on the Luxeon
units) I'm not convinced that this fellow's lights meets the FAA
requirements, especially at the extreme angles. Again, I have made no
measurements, so I can't know for sure. I was hoping someone on the list
had actually seen these units first hand.
Apparently not.
> plus the fact that
>the cost of his would buy four or five sets of yours...
That is nice of you to say, but you could buy just 3 sets of of
mine for the price of his. :-) Actually, if you bought three sets all at
once, I'd give you a discount!
Bill Dube'
http://www.killacycle.com/Lights.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
Subject: | Questions For An Overhaul Shop |
Hi all,
So much for having TOO much fun in the Bahamas last month.
After I got home from the trip, I changed the oil and found metal in
the oil filter. 950 TTSN, in 3 years. Lycoming confirmed it was
bearing material. %$#@!!! There were no symptoms during the last
flights, such as low oil pressure (75psi warm) or vibration. I had just
finished flying 45 hrs in the previous 2 weeks, with nothing in the
filter on the last oil change.
At this point I'm not interested in doing the overhaul myself, even
assisted, so I'm looking for a shop to do an overhaul to get back
flying.
Right now I've got some shops in my mind (including Aero Sport) but I'm
not quite sure how to approach them.
How do I approach these companies to compare prices to get an "apples
to apples comparison. I'm sure they'd want to look at the engine
before making any quote. I can't send them all the engine. I want to
make sure I look around to get a warm fuzzy when I end up sending it
someone and parting with the next 5 years of my expendable income.
Would asking them for a quote on their labor costs for a "standard"
(whatever that is) overhaul would be the right way to do it?. Or a
quote on an overhaul with all parts assumed good, like crankcase,
crank, cam, pistons and cylinders. (I know that there will be some
components that'll need replacing, but with a 1000hr motor since new,
there should be a lot of good parts, except what has been damaged from
the bearing giving up.)
Any other ideas?
Since this is the first experience with this kind of experience, any
suggestions would be welcomed.
TIA,
Laird RV-6
SoCal
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Hal / Carol Kempthorne <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Questions For An Overhaul Shop |
At 11:50 AM 5/26/2004, you wrote:
>
>After I got home from the trip, I changed the oil and found metal in
>the oil filter. 950 TTSN, in 3 years. Lycoming confirmed it was
>bearing material. %$#@!!!
Laird, I'll give you some suggestions but you have to realize that while
I've overhauled more than 200 engines, none of them were aircraft.
First, the Lyc is composed of three 'sections'. The bottom end, the top
end and the accessory case. Do all of these need overhaul? Check first
for compressions. If they are good then maybe the bottom is all that is
really needed, especially since this engine is first run. Usually,
cylinders give out first don't they? Poor compression, burning oil etc are
usual reasons for overhaul from what I hear. Why is yours different?
Could it be due to frisky flying? Acro is hard on crankshaft bearings so
engines that do acro need bottom end work first. I assume you have been
good about changing oil, flying regularly etc.
If your cylinders chck out good then I would select a shop that others have
been satisfied with and talk to them about your special situation. If
cylinders are also weak you might as well shop for a full overhaul. There
are two kinds of overhauls (maybe more?). One is described as "to new
limits" and the other is "to service limits". I suspect you will want the
former which is also more expensive.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob <panamared3(at)brier.net> |
Subject: | Re; Electrical failure, was All Glass |
>Ok Bob, you have my curiosity aroused, all glass --- Bob's Z -.XX wiring ??
>
>How did the total electrical failure occur?
>
>George in Langley
George and All
It is funny how you remember things. I usually remember the good things,
in this case a successful landing, and then I forget the bad things, like
what caused it.
So it has taken some thought to reconstruct, but here goes:
1. My electrical system is one of Bob Nuckoll's design.
2. The problems were an intermittent charging system, after a while of
flying thinking everything is charging, then getting a low voltage
indicator, then at some point around 10 volts the RMI microencoder (all of
the flight instruments) quits.
3. Alternator was bench checked by an alternator rebuild shop, and no
problems.
4. Put alternator back in aircraft. Seemed to work fine during test flight.
5. A week later took off at night, at uncontrolled airfield, at lift off
microencoder went dark. To say it was a total electrical failure is a
point of debate. At that time I did not consciously check to see if the
radio, transponder, landing lights, strobe lights or nav lights or even the
GRT Engine monitor were working. They may or may not have been working, I
know that the microencoder drops out at 10 volts, I don't know about
everything else. But as far as I was concerned all flight instruments were
definitely not working. First priority was to safely fly the aircraft and
second priority was to land it.
6. Aircraft safely landed, absolutely no problem in good VFR conditions.
7. I had the alternator rechecked on the bench by a reputable rebuild shop
and all OK!
8. I fiddle around with rewiring this and that, and nothing seemed to fix
the problem.
9. Finally I bought a rebuilt alternator from Mark Landoll (for about $80)
and I have not had the problem since.
10. How did I fix it, I replaced a supposedly good alternator with a
rebuilt one!?!
11. This is not an endorsement to fly your aircraft without electrical
power or the required instruments. But, if your only options are crashing
or flying without electrics and instruments, then do the best you can with
what you have.
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob <panamared3(at)brier.net> |
Subject: | Re: Predrilled holes |
At 11:16 AM 5/24/04, you wrote:
>The real dead giveaway is the bitter builder standing next to it who can't
>seem to stop chanting, "I had to drill all the holes!" 8-)
I had to drill all the holes, and the next airplane that I build will be
plans built. Do they come with predrilled holes, or should I wait a few
years before I buy the plans?
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob <panamared3(at)brier.net> |
Subject: | Re: Low Fuel Pressure |
<6.0.1.1.0.20040521132943.032b6510(at)mail.brier.net>
Some of you really smart guys might be able to help me out on this one. I
am getting low fuel pressures during cruise flight. Normal fuel pressures
are 22-24 PSI without Aux boost pump and 26-27 PSI with boost pump on. Now
without the aux boost pump I get about 10-11 PSI in cruise, I get 24 PSI at
takeoff and landing. On the Sunday flight, when I had low pressures I
turned on the boost pump and pressures went back to the 24 PSI
range. Yesterday, after the PSI dropped, I turned on the boost pump,
pressure went back up to normal range, then slowly dropped back to 10-11
PSI. I turned the boost pump off and pressures dropped below 9 PSI.
Engine is a IO 360 A1A (180 hp), Bendix fuel injection, and airflow
performance boost pump with assembly (fuel return line/check valve) and
fuel filter. All this stuff is plumbed according to airflow's
instructions. The system has been working fine for the first 150
hours. Since the last annual, it has been acting funny. The only things
that I did to the fuel system during the annual was to clean the fuel
filter and to clean the finger screen in the fuel servo.
My mechanic said to fly and watch it, but I think now I need to do
something. Any ideas would be appreciated.
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Huft" <rv8tor(at)lazy8.net> |
Subject: | Questions For An Overhaul Shop |
Laird, you should just call Ken Tunnel at Lycon and ask him. In many
conversations, I never felt like I was getting anything but the straight
scoop from him.
Were you running high compression pistons?
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Laird Owens
Subject: RV-List: Questions For An Overhaul Shop
Hi all,
So much for having TOO much fun in the Bahamas last month.
After I got home from the trip, I changed the oil and found metal in
the oil filter. 950 TTSN, in 3 years. Lycoming confirmed it was
bearing material. %$#@!!! There were no symptoms during the last
flights, such as low oil pressure (75psi warm) or vibration. I had just
finished flying 45 hrs in the previous 2 weeks, with nothing in the
filter on the last oil change.
At this point I'm not interested in doing the overhaul myself, even
assisted, so I'm looking for a shop to do an overhaul to get back
flying.
Right now I've got some shops in my mind (including Aero Sport) but I'm
not quite sure how to approach them.
How do I approach these companies to compare prices to get an "apples
to apples comparison. I'm sure they'd want to look at the engine
before making any quote. I can't send them all the engine. I want to
make sure I look around to get a warm fuzzy when I end up sending it
someone and parting with the next 5 years of my expendable income.
Would asking them for a quote on their labor costs for a "standard"
(whatever that is) overhaul would be the right way to do it?. Or a
quote on an overhaul with all parts assumed good, like crankcase,
crank, cam, pistons and cylinders. (I know that there will be some
components that'll need replacing, but with a 1000hr motor since new,
there should be a lot of good parts, except what has been damaged from
the bearing giving up.)
Any other ideas?
Since this is the first experience with this kind of experience, any
suggestions would be welcomed.
TIA,
Laird RV-6
SoCal
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Interesting LED position lights on Ebay |
From: | "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" <F.vanderHulst(at)ucol.ac.nz> |
The Hyundai HCD-8 concept car and 2002 Ford Mighty F-350 Tonka concept
truck use LEDs for headlights. See
http://www.spectrum.ieee.org/WEBONLY/publicfeature/mar04/0304car.html
Frank
Learn real skills for the real world - Apply online
at http://www.ucol.ac.nz or call 0800 GO UCOL
(0800 46 8265) or txt free 3388 for more information
and make a good move to UCOL Universal College of
Learning.
Enrol with a public institute and be certain of your
future
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | George Neal E Capt AU/PC <Neal.George(at)maxwell.af.mil> |
Subject: | Dimpling nit-niods |
I see occasional references to special dimple dies for the tank skins.
What's the difference standard 3-32 dimple dies and the tank skin dies?
Neal
RV-7 (emp, fitting tips)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
Subject: | Re: Dimpling nit-niods |
The dimple is a little larger to compensate for the proseal under the
rivet heads - leaving flush heads like normal.
Without this the heads will likely protrude a few thousandths above the
skin.
Dick Tasker
George Neal E Capt AU/PC wrote:
>
>I see occasional references to special dimple dies for the tank skins.
>What's the difference standard 3-32 dimple dies and the tank skin dies?
>
>Neal
>RV-7 (emp, fitting tips)
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Dimpling nit-niods |
>I see occasional references to special dimple dies for the tank skins.
>What's the difference standard 3-32 dimple dies and the tank skin dies?
>
>Neal
>RV-7 (emp, fitting tips)
The tank dies dimple deeper to allow for sealant under/around the rivet. I
didn't use them on my -8 tanks and some of the rivets stood up a bit proud
of the skin. The paint job blended them in quite nicely but I think the
tank dies would have made for a better finish all around.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
http://join.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200362ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
Subject: | Lightspeed Plasma II roughness, just a bad spark plug |
> > Now the mag has become the 'just get us back home' accessory when the
> > electrons go TU.
>
> Which mine (Lightspeed Plasma II) did yesterday...will provide more info
> once I'm done debugging it...pretty sure it's just a very simple
> problem...in the process of figuring it out as we email...
Turned out to be a bum spark plug.
Yesterday, after a couple of hours of flying, I got roughness during runup
when running only on the Plasma II. Up until that point (93 hours), the LSI
system had been smooth as silk.
I figured it might have been plug fouling, so I did my best to lean and
clean it out on the ground. No joy. I made the call to fly it home in that
condition, essentially putting the onus on the Slick mag. Arguably a risky
decision, but I wanted to fly it to see if I could lean & clean it out
better in flight. I was very skeptical, though, because I fly normally on
the very lean side (usually 50 LOP unless I'm running hard, in which case 75
ROP). I had just flown an hour and a half, leaning aggressively, and I
seriously doubted it was fouling. Anyway, I decided to head home. I was in
the desert at the time, so viable off-airport landing options were
a-plenty... Made it home fine, obviously.
During the flight I periodically checked the LSI by switching off the mag,
and it continued to run rough. Felt like it was running on 3 cylinders,
sputtering and backfiring on one cylinder. EGTs and CHTs didn't really give
me any clues that I could pick up on, because I didn't want to run on the
LSI-only long enough to determine the EGT trend.
Once back at the hangar I removed the top cowl and pulled the plugs. They
looked normal. Tan in color, dry as a bone. I checked the gap, and I
noticed that the electrodes had eroded a bit and the gap had increased from
my original .032" setting to about .036". This shouldn't cause the problem,
though. Just for kicks, I regapped 'em to .032" and put the plugs back in.
Recowled, started up, ran up, and again the Lightspeed system ran rough.
The variables involved could have been the crank position sensor (loose,
shifted, etc.), the coils, spark plug wires, the "brain," the RG400 wires
running to the coils, etc. I figured if it was the crank sensor, I'd have
to pull the prop to double check the clearance with the flywheel magnets.
Why not replace the plugs first, just to rule that out?
My engine & Plasma II came with Denso W24EMR-C spark plugs, which is what
Klaus recommends for the system. He sells those inexpensively, but I tried
to find them locally. Good luck! No joy.
This morning I spoke with Klaus about it, and he confirmed that it could be
any number of the things I mentioned above, and that if I wanted to pop some
locally accessible (i.e. at an auto parts store) spark plugs in just to
troubleshoot, then the NGK 5422 (BR8ES) or 4221 (BR8ET) plugs would be ok to
use. He advised against keeping those in there, though, because he has seen
some trouble with NGK spark plugs. He recommended just buying some new
Denso plugs from him. Klaus said that he has tried all sorts of different
spark plugs but that the W24EMR-C and W27EMR-C (slightly cooler plug) are
what he uses on his own plane. I figured I'd give the NGK plugs a shot just
to see if plugs were the problem.
I drove to Kragen and picked up their last four NGK 5422s, and I also got an
inductive timing light while I was there...assuming that if changing the
plugs out didn't solve it, the next step would be to check the LSI timing on
each cylinder (LSI publishes a decent troubleshooting flow chart on
http://www.lightspeedengineering.com).
Long story short, replacing the plugs solved the problem. Again the system
ran smooth as silk (10 RPM drop during an 1800 RPM runup). I flew up to
Santa Paula and bought a new set of Denso spark plugs from Klaus. He had no
idea why a plug would go bad, especially if it looked fine and not fouled.
Anyway, I guess my real point in all of this is to say that if anybody else
is running a Lightspeed ignition on an IO-360, the NGK 5422 (BR8ES) seems
like a potentially viable substitute or spare for the Denso W24EMR-C plug,
should you ever get stranded and need an "auto parts store" plug in a pinch.
I flew 1.7 hours today on the NGKs and didn't fall out of the sky... I'm
going to keep the NGKs in my tool bag just in case.
Hope this helps,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
Subject: | Re: Predrilled holes |
Hi Bob,
I wouldn't wait, I can't see what use or advantage having all those holes in
the plans would be. {[B-)!
Happy drilling,
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob" <panamared3(at)brier.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Predrilled holes
>
> At 11:16 AM 5/24/04, you wrote:
> >The real dead giveaway is the bitter builder standing next to it who
can't
> >seem to stop chanting, "I had to drill all the holes!" 8-)
>
> I had to drill all the holes, and the next airplane that I build will be
> plans built. Do they come with predrilled holes, or should I wait a few
> years before I buy the plans?
>
>
> Bob
> RV6 NightFighter
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Louis Willig <larywil(at)comcast.net>" <6.0.1.1.0.20040521132943.032b6510(at)mail.brier.net> |
Subject: | Re: Low Fuel Pressure |
<6.0.1.1.0.20040521132943.032b6510(at)mail.brier.net>
At 04:30 PM 5/26/2004, you wrote:
>
><am getting low fuel pressures during cruise flight. Normal fuel pressures
>are 22-24 PSI without Aux boost pump and 26-27 PSI with boost pump on. Now
>without the aux boost pump I get about 10-11 PSI in cruise>>>,
Bob,
Sometimes I read posts such as yours and worry about the pilot continuing
to fly the plane with a problem such as this. I wouldn't get back into this
aircraft until I found the solution or, at least, found a way to check out
the problem without killing myself.
A few weeks ago I lost all power on take-off at about 500 feet off the
ground with no runway available. I was so busy flying, switching tanks and
looking for a landing spot that I didn't have a chance to get scared and
the adrenaline never did kick in. The problem was fuel starvation from a
faulty tank. The switch-over took a few seconds to reestablish fuel flow,
but everything went OK. If you have an impending fuel problem, find it
before you get into that plane. While some people will disagree with my
position, I will take safety over expedience in this situation.
Luigi
-
Louis I Willig
1640 Oakwood Dr.
Penn Valley, PA 19072
610 668-4964
RV-4, N180PF
190HP IO-360, C/S prop
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Re: Dimpling nit-niods |
Neal,
The tank dies set the dimple .007" deeper than the normal dimple dies. This is
to compensate for the film thickness of the ProSeal. Some folks find that using
the tank dies only on the under structure (ribs, stiffeners & rear baffle)
works best. I used them on my tanks. I had noted a lot of builders who didn't
use them, had rivets which stood proud of the skins. My tanks came out very nice.
Charlie Kuss
>
>I see occasional references to special dimple dies for the tank skins.
>What's the difference standard 3-32 dimple dies and the tank skin dies?
>
>Neal
>RV-7 (emp, fitting tips)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
Subject: | Re: Lightspeed Plasma II roughness, just a bad spark plug |
Dan, I have run into plugs that were bad right out of the box so it can
happen.
Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: RV-List: Lightspeed Plasma II roughness, just a bad spark plug
>
> > > Now the mag has become the 'just get us back home' accessory when the
> > > electrons go TU.
> >
> > Which mine (Lightspeed Plasma II) did yesterday...will provide more info
> > once I'm done debugging it...pretty sure it's just a very simple
> > problem...in the process of figuring it out as we email...
>
> Turned out to be a bum spark plug.
>
> Yesterday, after a couple of hours of flying, I got roughness during runup
> when running only on the Plasma II. Up until that point (93 hours), the
LSI
> system had been smooth as silk.
>
> I figured it might have been plug fouling, so I did my best to lean and
> clean it out on the ground. No joy. I made the call to fly it home in
that
> condition, essentially putting the onus on the Slick mag. Arguably a
risky
> decision, but I wanted to fly it to see if I could lean & clean it out
> better in flight. I was very skeptical, though, because I fly normally on
> the very lean side (usually 50 LOP unless I'm running hard, in which case
75
> ROP). I had just flown an hour and a half, leaning aggressively, and I
> seriously doubted it was fouling. Anyway, I decided to head home. I was
in
> the desert at the time, so viable off-airport landing options were
> a-plenty... Made it home fine, obviously.
>
> During the flight I periodically checked the LSI by switching off the mag,
> and it continued to run rough. Felt like it was running on 3 cylinders,
> sputtering and backfiring on one cylinder. EGTs and CHTs didn't really
give
> me any clues that I could pick up on, because I didn't want to run on the
> LSI-only long enough to determine the EGT trend.
>
> Once back at the hangar I removed the top cowl and pulled the plugs. They
> looked normal. Tan in color, dry as a bone. I checked the gap, and I
> noticed that the electrodes had eroded a bit and the gap had increased
from
> my original .032" setting to about .036". This shouldn't cause the
problem,
> though. Just for kicks, I regapped 'em to .032" and put the plugs back
in.
> Recowled, started up, ran up, and again the Lightspeed system ran rough.
>
> The variables involved could have been the crank position sensor (loose,
> shifted, etc.), the coils, spark plug wires, the "brain," the RG400 wires
> running to the coils, etc. I figured if it was the crank sensor, I'd have
> to pull the prop to double check the clearance with the flywheel magnets.
> Why not replace the plugs first, just to rule that out?
>
> My engine & Plasma II came with Denso W24EMR-C spark plugs, which is what
> Klaus recommends for the system. He sells those inexpensively, but I
tried
> to find them locally. Good luck! No joy.
>
> This morning I spoke with Klaus about it, and he confirmed that it could
be
> any number of the things I mentioned above, and that if I wanted to pop
some
> locally accessible (i.e. at an auto parts store) spark plugs in just to
> troubleshoot, then the NGK 5422 (BR8ES) or 4221 (BR8ET) plugs would be ok
to
> use. He advised against keeping those in there, though, because he has
seen
> some trouble with NGK spark plugs. He recommended just buying some new
> Denso plugs from him. Klaus said that he has tried all sorts of different
> spark plugs but that the W24EMR-C and W27EMR-C (slightly cooler plug) are
> what he uses on his own plane. I figured I'd give the NGK plugs a shot
just
> to see if plugs were the problem.
>
> I drove to Kragen and picked up their last four NGK 5422s, and I also got
an
> inductive timing light while I was there...assuming that if changing the
> plugs out didn't solve it, the next step would be to check the LSI timing
on
> each cylinder (LSI publishes a decent troubleshooting flow chart on
> http://www.lightspeedengineering.com).
>
> Long story short, replacing the plugs solved the problem. Again the
system
> ran smooth as silk (10 RPM drop during an 1800 RPM runup). I flew up to
> Santa Paula and bought a new set of Denso spark plugs from Klaus. He had
no
> idea why a plug would go bad, especially if it looked fine and not fouled.
>
> Anyway, I guess my real point in all of this is to say that if anybody
else
> is running a Lightspeed ignition on an IO-360, the NGK 5422 (BR8ES) seems
> like a potentially viable substitute or spare for the Denso W24EMR-C plug,
> should you ever get stranded and need an "auto parts store" plug in a
pinch.
> I flew 1.7 hours today on the NGKs and didn't fall out of the sky... I'm
> going to keep the NGKs in my tool bag just in case.
>
> Hope this helps,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ross Scroggs" <rv4ross(at)charter.net> |
Subject: | Re: Low Fuel Pressure <6.0.1.1.0.20040521132943.032b6510(at)mail.brier.net> |
Bob,
Make sure your fuel tank vents are working properly, inducing a positive
pressure or at least not
a negative one. Sounds like your creating a negative pressure in the tank
that your drawing fuel
from while in flight but not while your on the ground.
Just a thought,
Ross Scroggs
RV4 #3911 Wings
Locust Grove, Ga.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob" <panamared3(at)brier.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Low Fuel Pressure
<6.0.1.1.0.20040521132943.032b6510(at)mail.brier.net>
>
> Some of you really smart guys might be able to help me out on this one. I
> am getting low fuel pressures during cruise flight. Normal fuel pressures
> are 22-24 PSI without Aux boost pump and 26-27 PSI with boost pump on.
Now
> without the aux boost pump I get about 10-11 PSI in cruise, I get 24 PSI
at
> takeoff and landing. On the Sunday flight, when I had low pressures I
> turned on the boost pump and pressures went back to the 24 PSI
> range. Yesterday, after the PSI dropped, I turned on the boost pump,
> pressure went back up to normal range, then slowly dropped back to 10-11
> PSI. I turned the boost pump off and pressures dropped below 9 PSI.
>
> Engine is a IO 360 A1A (180 hp), Bendix fuel injection, and airflow
> performance boost pump with assembly (fuel return line/check valve) and
> fuel filter. All this stuff is plumbed according to airflow's
> instructions. The system has been working fine for the first 150
> hours. Since the last annual, it has been acting funny. The only things
> that I did to the fuel system during the annual was to clean the fuel
> filter and to clean the finger screen in the fuel servo.
>
> My mechanic said to fly and watch it, but I think now I need to do
> something. Any ideas would be appreciated.
>
> Bob
> RV6 NightFighter
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MMcs139808(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Lightspeed Plasma II roughness, just a bad spark plug |
Dan
I have had bad plugs out of the box in the motor (auto) trade on a couple of
occasions.
Eugene
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan(at)hotmail.com> |
Folks,
What temp. does the breather hose need to withstand?
Thanks,
Amit.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Dimpling nit-niods |
The tank dimple dies create a slightly deeper dimple, presumably to offset
the Proseal that will seal the base of the rivet. I have found them useful
for other purposes too, such as when you are nesting several dimples.
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 All Flying
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "George Neal E Capt AU/PC" <Neal.George(at)maxwell.af.mil>
Subject: RV-List: Dimpling nit-niods
>
> I see occasional references to special dimple dies for the tank skins.
> What's the difference standard 3-32 dimple dies and the tank skin dies?
>
> Neal
> RV-7 (emp, fitting tips)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
Subject: | Re: Breather Hose |
Hi Amit,
Hopefully, the highest temps that the breather hose will have to survive
should happen during hot soaking (just after engine shut down).
My 'guess' is that temp might reach to the area about 300 + degrees F. for a
short while just after shut down. I'm sure others can give a tested result.
Oil and chemical resistant hose such as that used for automotive heater hose
will stand higher heat than that and stand up quite well and long for the
task. As suggested by others before I just hit the auto supply shop and
bought a length with lots of pre-formed bends to use with some aluminum
tubing to make that hose go where it should.
Keep on building,
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Breather Hose
>
> Folks,
> What temp. does the breather hose need to withstand?
> Thanks,
> Amit.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MikeReiman(at)webtv.net (The Reiman Corporation) |
Subject: | Re: Low Fuel Pressure <6.0.1.1.0.20040521132943.032b6510(at)mail.brier.net> |
Dear RV6 owner,
I'm an A&P....... Get another mechanic if he just tells you,"To watch
it".
This is what I would do in this order:
1. Swap out or replace fuel caps..... Vent might be clogged in one, and
that could be enough to do it. Cheap fix.
2. Call factory service rep., and ask if other's have had this problem
and what their fix was.
3. Check the filter element you opened, and look very carefully for any
folded over or cracked sealed areas around it.
I don't own an RV, but as your basic A&P I hope that helps you. Like to
know where you are....? I'm in Florida.
Oh, Please let me know of any Grumman Tigers for sale...! That would be
great.
Soft Landings,
Mike Reiman
The Reiman Corporation, CEO
2505 South Ocean Boulevard
Palm Beach, Florida 33480
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
Subject: | Re: Breather Hose |
Not very hot, I used rubber radiator hose sourced from the local auto parts
store with no ill effects for 368 hours.
Randy Lervold
> Folks,
> What temp. does the breather hose need to withstand?
> Thanks,
> Amit.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Lightspeed Plasma II roughness, just a bad spark plug |
You need to learn to read your EGT's on the engine
analyzer. That should show you exactly which cylinder
is missing when you do a mag check! If you do a LOP
mag check, you should always see a small rise in EGT's
when swiching from both mags/EI to one or the other.
If you don't get a rise on a particular cylinder, or
it drops, you know that one is missing.
--- Dan Checkoway wrote:
>
>
> > > Now the mag has become the 'just get us back
> home' accessory when the
> > > electrons go TU.
> >
> > Which mine (Lightspeed Plasma II) did
> yesterday...will provide more info
> > once I'm done debugging it...pretty sure it's just
> a very simple
> > problem...in the process of figuring it out as we
> email...
>
> Turned out to be a bum spark plug.
>
> Yesterday, after a couple of hours of flying, I got
> roughness during runup
> when running only on the Plasma II. Up until that
> point (93 hours), the LSI
> system had been smooth as silk.
>
> I figured it might have been plug fouling, so I did
> my best to lean and
> clean it out on the ground. No joy. I made the
> call to fly it home in that
> condition, essentially putting the onus on the Slick
> mag. Arguably a risky
> decision, but I wanted to fly it to see if I could
> lean & clean it out
> better in flight. I was very skeptical, though,
> because I fly normally on
> the very lean side (usually 50 LOP unless I'm
> running hard, in which case 75
> ROP). I had just flown an hour and a half, leaning
> aggressively, and I
> seriously doubted it was fouling. Anyway, I decided
> to head home. I was in
> the desert at the time, so viable off-airport
> landing options were
> a-plenty... Made it home fine, obviously.
>
> During the flight I periodically checked the LSI by
> switching off the mag,
> and it continued to run rough. Felt like it was
> running on 3 cylinders,
> sputtering and backfiring on one cylinder. EGTs and
> CHTs didn't really give
> me any clues that I could pick up on, because I
> didn't want to run on the
> LSI-only long enough to determine the EGT trend.
>
> Once back at the hangar I removed the top cowl and
> pulled the plugs. They
> looked normal. Tan in color, dry as a bone. I
> checked the gap, and I
> noticed that the electrodes had eroded a bit and the
> gap had increased from
> my original .032" setting to about .036". This
> shouldn't cause the problem,
> though. Just for kicks, I regapped 'em to .032" and
> put the plugs back in.
> Recowled, started up, ran up, and again the
> Lightspeed system ran rough.
>
> The variables involved could have been the crank
> position sensor (loose,
> shifted, etc.), the coils, spark plug wires, the
> "brain," the RG400 wires
> running to the coils, etc. I figured if it was the
> crank sensor, I'd have
> to pull the prop to double check the clearance with
> the flywheel magnets.
> Why not replace the plugs first, just to rule that
> out?
>
> My engine & Plasma II came with Denso W24EMR-C spark
> plugs, which is what
> Klaus recommends for the system. He sells those
> inexpensively, but I tried
> to find them locally. Good luck! No joy.
>
> This morning I spoke with Klaus about it, and he
> confirmed that it could be
> any number of the things I mentioned above, and that
> if I wanted to pop some
> locally accessible (i.e. at an auto parts store)
> spark plugs in just to
> troubleshoot, then the NGK 5422 (BR8ES) or 4221
> (BR8ET) plugs would be ok to
> use. He advised against keeping those in there,
> though, because he has seen
> some trouble with NGK spark plugs. He recommended
> just buying some new
> Denso plugs from him. Klaus said that he has tried
> all sorts of different
> spark plugs but that the W24EMR-C and W27EMR-C
> (slightly cooler plug) are
> what he uses on his own plane. I figured I'd give
> the NGK plugs a shot just
> to see if plugs were the problem.
>
> I drove to Kragen and picked up their last four NGK
> 5422s, and I also got an
> inductive timing light while I was there...assuming
> that if changing the
> plugs out didn't solve it, the next step would be to
> check the LSI timing on
> each cylinder (LSI publishes a decent
> troubleshooting flow chart on
> http://www.lightspeedengineering.com).
>
> Long story short, replacing the plugs solved the
> problem. Again the system
> ran smooth as silk (10 RPM drop during an 1800 RPM
> runup). I flew up to
> Santa Paula and bought a new set of Denso spark
> plugs from Klaus. He had no
> idea why a plug would go bad, especially if it
> looked fine and not fouled.
>
> Anyway, I guess my real point in all of this is to
> say that if anybody else
> is running a Lightspeed ignition on an IO-360, the
> NGK 5422 (BR8ES) seems
> like a potentially viable substitute or spare for
> the Denso W24EMR-C plug,
> should you ever get stranded and need an "auto parts
> store" plug in a pinch.
> I flew 1.7 hours today on the NGKs and didn't fall
> out of the sky... I'm
> going to keep the NGKs in my tool bag just in case.
>
> Hope this helps,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://messenger.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: > Re: Breather Hose |
I used the same rubber hose as the others and I put abouy 3" of aluminum
tubing in the end so I could run it against the exhaust pipe. Within 1/8" anyway.
That bakes all the oily fumes to ashes.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
RV-List , OhioValleyRVators(at)yahoogroups.com
Subject: | Airplane paintshop |
Anyone that is looking for a place to get their plane painted, here is a
good one.
Kentucky Aircraft Restoration is owned and operated by Toni Renye. I saw
the work that he did to a Great Lakes and an RV6 and both were very
good. Toni takes pride in his work. He has some of the nicest painting
equipment that I have seen. He moved here from Germany, setup his shop
in Princeton, Kentucky and has been putting out very good work. He has
alot of pictures of his work, that he said he would be willing to send
to anyone interested in getting their plane painted at his shop. Anyone
that is interested can reach him during day at his shop, he will be
happy to answer any of your questions. His shop is a very large hanger
located off the north end of Princeton-Caldwell Co. Kentucky airport
(2M0) located in the south western corner of Kentucky. I plan on having
my RV painted at Toni's shop when the time comes. He will be out of town
June 6-12.
Kentucky Aircraft Restoration
90 Murray Drive
Princeton, KY 42445
Phone: 270-365-1010
Email: kyaircraft(at)vci.net
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Hal / Carol Kempthorne <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Breather Hose |
I used auto heater hose but next iteration will be all aluminum tubing -
less weight.
hal
At 06:10 PM 5/26/2004, you wrote:
>
>Folks,
>What temp. does the breather hose need to withstand?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
"aeroelectric-list"
Subject: | Fw: LED flashlights |
I know we have some tinkerers on these lists so I thought I should pass on
the prompt and kindly reply of Wayne, of Electrolumens.com
My e-mail to him is at bottom. Looks like he's had a lot of fun with this
sideline (see 2nd link, at bottom of his reply). His prices are a bit high
for me, but he also sells parts to hobbyists/tinkerers - so he's not "too
proud" or "too proprietary oriented" to help someone.
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne" <elektrolumens(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: LED flashlights
> See this link of a modified flashlight I make, called the Anglelux:
>
> http://elektrolumens.com/AngleLux/AngleLux.html
>
>
> This light might be good for aviation, as it has the different lens
> colors. I make them with a single LED, and with the dual LED
> setup.
> I do it as it is interesting and provides work for a help of
> mine, so he can make a little money too.
>
> For using LEDs, you just need to pay attention to the voltage
> requirements of the LED. For the Luxeon LED, you also need to
> pay attention to sinking the heat from the LED.
>
> In the Anglelux, I use a switch in one model to go from a single to
> dual LEDs. It could also be done with a single LED and a switch for
> low power/high power, so when you're in a small area or reading a
> map, you can cut the power down.
>
> Just some suggestons.
>
> I use the genuine Fulton Industries anglehead flashlights in my
> Anglelux. I also have some generic ones, which I cannot use. You
> can have one for minimal cost, if you want one. They work just as
> good, but my customers insist on the American made quality
> product. I also have the Fulton Anglheads, if you want one of those,
> which you can modify yourself. I normally do not sell the flashlight
> like this. I can also throw in the needed heat sink. You'll have to do
> the rest.
>
> Here's a link to flashlights I've modified in the past, for your
> amusement:
>
> http://elektrolumens.com/Modified_Flashlights.html
>
>
> Wayne
> =============================================
> On 26 May 2004 at 9:45, David Carter wrote:
>
> > Your website was mentioned on a home-built aircraft e-mail forum. I
> > spent a long time in Wal-Mart last month looking at LED flashlights -
> > all but 1 (MagLite) were made in China. I don't buy anything made in
> > China.
> >
> > I'm not in law enforcement or military, so don't need a superbright
> > flashlight. However, I am a pilot, fly at night and on instruments,
> > so need a flashlight with LONG battery life and just average - or less
> > - light "power".
> >
> > I'd think a single NmH AA or AAA battery ought to power a small LED
> > for a "long" time - smaller flashlight is "better" for holding in my
> > mouth or velcro'ing to a mounting pad to shine on instrument panel.
> >
> > Tight beam is probably NOT best for looking at a map or illuminating
> > several instruments on the panel.
> >
> > Any suggestions? I am building my own RV-6 from a kit and am doing
> > all my own electrical work and have experience as a flight simulator
> > repairman (old tube type thing in 1960), so I have some experience
> > soldering and have all the good solder and devices, heat shrink, etc.
> > I have saved some e-mails from the Aeroelectric List that tell how to
> > size the resistors for any particular LED. Seems like "optics head"
> > and the "case & switch" will be the keys to making my own light. I
> > have a "bread board" for prototyping from Radio Shack.
> >
> > Since you seem to be kind enough to make your parts available for the
> > "flashlight hobbyist", may I ask if you have any suggestions of parts
> > for me to make my own "little flashlight"
> >
> > I am also a Scoutmaster and family camper. I need a more normal "2 D
> > cell" type flashlight for my back pack - and for emergency use in my
> > two cars. Is conversion of a std 2 D cell flashlight to LED feasible?
> > Any suggestions for parts for thist?
> >
> > Not trying to take your time away from "real money makers", so hope
> > you don't find my questions bothersome. I'll certainly appreciate any
> > time you can spare to respond to this.
> >
> > David Carter
> > 409-722-7259
> > dcarter(at)datarecall.net
> > 619 S. 16th St.
> > Nederland, Texas 77627
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Danielson" <Jdaniel343(at)bresnan.net> |
Subject: | Re: I gotta Rocket!!!! |
Hi Denis,
Where is Rebel's Bluff?
Thanks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Denis Walsh" <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: I gotta Rocket!!!!
>
> Why not fly that new rocket down to Rebel's Bluff, and show it off to
> Les Featherstone? Probably only take a half hour ..... He only had one
> rocket show up last year at the first annual rocket and rv fly in.
>
> It was a real winner.
>
> Denis in Denver
> On May 25, 2004, at 5:58 AM, Doug Rozendaal wrote:
>
> >
> > All, and especially Gummi Bear,
> >
> > After years of whining and crying on this list I finally got a Rocket!
> > Yippee!
> >
> > Get in that Bird of yours Gummi Bear and get out here and we will rip
> > up the
> > skies and find out who can fly ;-)
> >
> > Mark Fredrick is now the proud owner of my SNB-4 (Twin Beech in
> > laymans
> > Language) and I have the "Check Six" Rocket. I don't know what the
> > plan is
> > for it right now, I've got a freind who wants to buy it.
> >
> > What an airplane!
> >
> > Tailwinds,
> > Doug Rozendaal
> > Rocketeer!
> >
> > P.S. Now I have to come up with a new reason to hate Tom Gummo ;-)
> > (suggestions accepted)
> >
> >
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
Subject: | Reminder - Langley Fly-in |
The Langley (BC) fly-in will be Saturday, June 12, 2004 at Langley Township
Regional Airport (CYNJ). Langley is 20 nm north of Bellengham, WA. This is
the annual fly-in for Van's Air Force Western Canada Wing.
Eustace Bowhay will be giving his always-popular seminar on all things RV. And
Gus Funnell, from Van's, will be there, probably with the RV-10. Border
crossing for U.S. visitors is quite simple, and you'll find detailed
instructions on the Home Wing web site,
http://www.edt.com/homewing/international/index.html
Come see a whole other world of flying just across the border.
The Langley fly-in is also a popular event for builders other than RVers, and
this year we're going to have a seminar by Murphy Aircraft, as well as a Murphy
booth. There will be camping on the field as well as local hotel accommodation
for anyone who wants to stay overnight. You can get all the details on the
fly-in web site, at
http://www.vansairforce.org/CYNJ/
Tedd McHenry
Van's Air Force
Western Canada Wing
tedd(at)vansairforce.org
www.vansairforce.org
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kathleen (rv7)" <Kathleen(at)rv7.us> |
Subject: | FW: And When the Holes Don't Line Up? |
In inspecting my QB (7a) fuselage I found that (f706) cabin member has a
noticeable bend in it. When it is forced straight, the metal (f652 upper
cabin bulkhead) bows out and there isn't any reasonable way to make it all
fit. OK, I don't know how to further explain, so there is a picture or two
at http://www.rv7.us/daily040516.htm The bottom line is that the
pre-punched holes don't line up. I've decided on a fix -- redrill the holes
in the back side and move the nutplates. That won't show inside the cabin,
but I'm not sure that the problem isn't with the rib (f-706). If it is, it
would mean that the outer skin wouldn't fit. Any suggestions on how I can
determine where the real culprit is? This is the way it came from Van's.
Any ideas? Anyone else have this problem?
Kathleen
www.rv7.us
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
I used top quality, preformed heater hose from NAPA, which I've had
excellent service in cars with. However, after two years on the
breather line in my 6A, it started to get mushy. I used a 180 degree
section to change direction, and then used regular aircraft breather
hose. I replaced it with a metal tube I fashioned from some copper
plumbing parts. My breather line does see oil, as I fly inverted from
time to time.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 472 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
>
> Not very hot, I used rubber radiator hose sourced from the
> local auto parts store with no ill effects for 368 hours.
>
> Randy Lervold
>
>
> > Folks,
> > What temp. does the breather hose need to withstand?
> > Thanks,
> > Amit.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <Fred.Stucklen(at)UTCFuelCells.com> |
Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition Problem? |
Andy,
I'm assuming that your listed 18 deg advance on the electronic ignition
is in addition to the 25 deg base point. If it's not, then you are running
the timing very retarded.
Otherwise, It sounds like you have a connection problem as what you have
described for operation on just the electronic ignition is not typical.
Check the connections on all ignition leads first. The leads are resistive,
so they should ohm out to somewhere around 10,000 ohms. But if there is a
bad connection on either end, the resistance would be much higher or
infinite.
You might also be picking up some noise in the mag hole pickup device
leads. Be sure that none of your ignition leads are near this lead. Also
check the to see that your power source is for some reason intermittent.
Another area to investigate would be the spark plug gaps. Be sure that
they are somewhere near .030 or so.......
I have two of Jeff's systems on my RV-6A, and have not had any problems.
On a previous RV-6A, I had exactly your installation, and also had no
problems (in 2008 Hrs of operation)....
I wouldn't fly your plane until you have this problem fixed......
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV
Let me start with my base assumption. I was under the impression that
electronic ignition worked better than mags under all conditions. Less
or no RPM drop at mag check time, better burn, quicker start, etc etc
etc. So far so good?
What I see:
At 1800 rpm doing mag check, both the electronic ign and the mag give
equal drops in RPM. In flight at hi-cruise if I switch off the mag I
get VERY rough running, with backfire pop of unburned fuel until I
switch the mag back on. Turning off the electronic ign the mag works
fine by itself with a slight RPM drop. What's going on here?
My setup: 0-320-D2A Carb based, 1 Slick, 1 Jeff Rose Electro-Air with
mag hole sensor
Conditions of test:
2550 RPM
26.0 MAP
60 OAT
107 Carb Temp
350 CHT
1366 EGT
18 deg Advance on Electronic ign
10.7 GPH
3500FT ALT
- Andy Karmy
RV9A Seattle WA
andy(at)karmy.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | GB <microsys(at)alltel.net> |
My friend says thanks for the response...the rv8 seats are sold!
Glen
RV9 wings as soon as they get here
Moultrie, GA
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Fw: LED flashlights |
In a message dated 5/28/2004 8:34:31 PM Eastern Daylight Time, dcarter(at)datarecall.net
writes:
> . I don't buy anything made in
> > > China
DAMN RIGHT !!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | EddyFernan(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Aluminum air vents |
I thought the fellow RVers could benefit from my experience. I saw your
blurb about the new large aluminum air vents that Van's is selling, and I was
about to order them when another builder told me that Affordablepanels.com was
selling nicer ones much cheaper. I couldn't make up my mind on which ones to
order, so I ordered a pair from Vans, and another one from Affordable Panels.
Well, after having seen them both, and I will send back the ones I bought from
Van's. I just thought I should let everyone know, so they can get them while
they are cheap.
Eddy Fernandez
In canopy mode
RV9a
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)excelgeo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition Problem? |
I just went through this on my last long trip. The symptoms were the
same as yours but mine finally died completely so it was easy to trouble
shoot.
1. A bad plug will render two cylinders inop since they run on the same
coil and both plugs fire at the same time. A wasted spark system. Sort
of sucks that one plug will take out two cylinders
2. A bad plug lead will do the same as a bad plug. Usually only surfaces
at higher power settings when cylinder pressures are high.
3. A bad hall effect sensor. Check the resistance between the red and
black wire. It should be 600-800 ohms.
4. In my case, the red wire for the hall effect sensor failed and was
intermittent until it finally hard failed. A quick fix once it was found.
Gary
Stucklen, Frederic IFC wrote:
>
>Andy,
>
> I'm assuming that your listed 18 deg advance on the electronic ignition
>is in addition to the 25 deg base point. If it's not, then you are running
>the timing very retarded.
> Otherwise, It sounds like you have a connection problem as what you have
>described for operation on just the electronic ignition is not typical.
>Check the connections on all ignition leads first. The leads are resistive,
>so they should ohm out to somewhere around 10,000 ohms. But if there is a
>bad connection on either end, the resistance would be much higher or
>infinite.
> You might also be picking up some noise in the mag hole pickup device
>leads. Be sure that none of your ignition leads are near this lead. Also
>check the to see that your power source is for some reason intermittent.
> Another area to investigate would be the spark plug gaps. Be sure that
>they are somewhere near .030 or so.......
> I have two of Jeff's systems on my RV-6A, and have not had any problems.
>On a previous RV-6A, I had exactly your installation, and also had no
>problems (in 2008 Hrs of operation)....
> I wouldn't fly your plane until you have this problem fixed......
>
>Fred Stucklen
>RV-6A N926RV
>
>
> Let me start with my base assumption. I was under the impression that
> electronic ignition worked better than mags under all conditions. Less
>
> or no RPM drop at mag check time, better burn, quicker start, etc etc
> etc. So far so good?
>
> What I see:
>
> At 1800 rpm doing mag check, both the electronic ign and the mag give
> equal drops in RPM. In flight at hi-cruise if I switch off the mag I
> get VERY rough running, with backfire pop of unburned fuel until I
> switch the mag back on. Turning off the electronic ign the mag works
> fine by itself with a slight RPM drop. What's going on here?
>
> My setup: 0-320-D2A Carb based, 1 Slick, 1 Jeff Rose Electro-Air with
> mag hole sensor
>
> Conditions of test:
>
> 2550 RPM
> 26.0 MAP
> 60 OAT
> 107 Carb Temp
> 350 CHT
> 1366 EGT
> 18 deg Advance on Electronic ign
> 10.7 GPH
> 3500FT ALT
>
>
> - Andy Karmy
> RV9A Seattle WA
> andy(at)karmy.com
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us(at)hotmail.com> |
I knew that wouldn't last long. Thank you for the heads-up. Bruce
>From: GB <microsys(at)alltel.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: RV List
>Subject: RV-List: rv8 seats sold
>Date: Thu, 27 May 2004 08:31:28 -0400
>
>
>My friend says thanks for the response...the rv8 seats are sold!
>
>Glen
>RV9 wings as soon as they get here
>Moultrie, GA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Nielsen Mark <Mark.Nielsen(at)andritz.com> |
Subject: | Re: Breather Hose |
>
> Not very hot, I used rubber radiator hose sourced from the local auto
parts store > with no ill effects for 368 hours.
>
> Randy Lervold
>
>
>> Folks,
>> What temp. does the breather hose need to withstand?
>> Thanks,
>> Amit.
Initially, I used automotive heater hose for my breather hose. After
200-300 hours the hose started to sweat oil. Not a big problem, other than
the hose was grimy to the touch. I replaced it with a hose that was rated
for fuel and oil service. (I got the hose at a local speed shop.) I like
the new hose a lot better.
Mark Nielsen
RV-6; 909 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Phil Birkelbach" <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
Subject: | Re: FW: And When the Holes Don't Line Up? |
Have you tried to see how the thing fits with the top skin clecoed on. You
may simply need to adjust some of the flutes. Also you could simply drill
all the holes in the baggage cover out to #12 instead of #19 and that would
probably let it move around enough to get all the screws in. That's easier
than trying to move the nutplates. Maybe I am misunderstanding your
question.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Panel
http://www.myrv7.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kathleen (rv7)" <Kathleen(at)rv7.us>
Subject: RV-List: FW: And When the Holes Don't Line Up?
>
>
> In inspecting my QB (7a) fuselage I found that (f706) cabin member has a
> noticeable bend in it. When it is forced straight, the metal (f652 upper
> cabin bulkhead) bows out and there isn't any reasonable way to make it all
> fit. OK, I don't know how to further explain, so there is a picture or
two
> at http://www.rv7.us/daily040516.htm The bottom line is that the
> pre-punched holes don't line up. I've decided on a fix -- redrill the
holes
> in the back side and move the nutplates. That won't show inside the
cabin,
> but I'm not sure that the problem isn't with the rib (f-706). If it is,
it
> would mean that the outer skin wouldn't fit. Any suggestions on how I can
> determine where the real culprit is? This is the way it came from Van's.
> Any ideas? Anyone else have this problem?
>
> Kathleen
> www.rv7.us
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ross Schlotthauer" <rv7maker(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Aluminum air vents |
For another option check out:
Check out www.experimentalair.com/products.html
>From: EddyFernan(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Aluminum air vents
>Date: Thu, 27 May 2004 10:11:57 EDT
>
>
>I thought the fellow RVers could benefit from my experience. I saw your
>blurb about the new large aluminum air vents that Van's is selling, and I
>was
>about to order them when another builder told me that Affordablepanels.com
>was
>selling nicer ones much cheaper. I couldn't make up my mind on which ones
>to
>order, so I ordered a pair from Vans, and another one from Affordable
>Panels.
>Well, after having seen them both, and I will send back the ones I bought
>from
>Van's. I just thought I should let everyone know, so they can get them
>while
>they are cheap.
>
>Eddy Fernandez
>In canopy mode
>RV9a
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
Subject: | Re: Aluminum air vents |
rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com, RV10(at)yahoogroups.com
There is another option from www.experimentalair.com:
http://www.experimentalair.com/products.html
----- Original Message -----
From: <EddyFernan(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Aluminum air vents
I thought the fellow RVers could benefit from my experience. I saw your
blurb about the new large aluminum air vents that Van's is selling, and I
was
about to order them when another builder told me that Affordablepanels.com
was
selling nicer ones much cheaper. I couldn't make up my mind on which ones
to
order, so I ordered a pair from Vans, and another one from Affordable
Panels.
Well, after having seen them both, and I will send back the ones I bought
from
Van's. I just thought I should let everyone know, so they can get them while
they are cheap.
Eddy Fernandez
In canopy mode
RV9a
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bob <panamared3(at)brier.net>" <6.0.1.1.0.20040521132943.032b6510(at)mail.brier.net> |
Subject: | Re: Low Fuel Pressure |
<6.0.1.1.0.20040521132943.032b6510(at)mail.brier.net>
>Sometimes I read posts such as yours and worry about the pilot continuing
>to fly the plane with a problem such as this. I wouldn't get back into this
>aircraft until I found the solution or, at least, found a way to check out
>the problem without killing myself.
My thoughts exactly. I do fly with a parachute, but I certainly do not
look forward to using it.
Any ideas of how to find the solution without flying will be greatly
appreciated.
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
Subject: | Re: Aluminum air vents |
Or you get a pair from B&B hardware, Kansas (??)
for under a 100, just bought another pair from them.
They showed the vents at OSh, I believe they are 1-1/4" vents.
Gert
EddyFernan(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I thought the fellow RVers could benefit from my experience. I saw your
> blurb about the new large aluminum air vents that Van's is selling, and I was
> about to order them when another builder told me that Affordablepanels.com was
> selling nicer ones much cheaper. I couldn't make up my mind on which ones to
> order, so I ordered a pair from Vans, and another one from Affordable Panels.
> Well, after having seen them both, and I will send back the ones I bought from
> Van's. I just thought I should let everyone know, so they can get them while
> they are cheap.
>
> Eddy Fernandez
> In canopy mode
> RV9a
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Subject: | unsolicited email from SportFlyingShop.com |
>
> Okay, from one friendly NWA to another NWA.
>
> No SportFlyingShop.com did not download anything, nor did I opt for
> anything when looking at their website. Websites can and will download
> your email address without your knowledge.
>
> It is not a virus, nor is it spyware adware or other ware, it's an
> internet feature ;-)
>
> Gert
>
Gert, is there anyway to disable this "feature" in the MS IExplore 6.0
Browser??
Ed Anderson
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
Subject: | Wing wiring conduits & heated pitot tube |
I'm studying my RV-6 QB wings & Dwg 10 showing aileron push tube, and other
dwgs and websites showing ways to route pitot tube tubing for Gretz heated
pitot tube.
Looks like lots of space in big lightening holes in all the ribs aft of
spar. Aileron pushtube has to go in there but seems there shouldn't be any
problem securing 1 or two small PVC pipes in there for 12volt wires to
strobes & position lights & RG-58 (0.20 inch OD) to a Bob Archer antenna in
each wing tip.
There'd be a 12 wire to landing light and 12 v wire to heated pitot in
left tip, plus air plumbing from pitot in left.
Ques 1: Has it been common practice to run wires in conduits aft of the
spar in those lightening holes? I'd secure the pvc at each end (root & tip)
with an Adel clamp. I'm thinking I'd let one pvc conduit lay on the bottom
of the lightening holes and mount the other opposite on the top side (keep
my strobe pwr wire sep from antenna cable, just in case) - I can secure that
upper conduit with 1 or more Adel clamps, starting above the inspection
plate area and outboard (that area is open on the QB wings so I'd install
the conduit before closing the wing). Seems like the pvc conduits should be
out of the way of the aileron tube in inbd half of wing.
Ques 2: Few months ago some folks reported large jumps in price of Gretz
pitot tubes. Besides salvage, is there a lower priced alternative for new
heated pitot that has any track record of reliability - or potential, if
new? Is Dynon coming out with their own heated pitot tube? I'm planning on
a D-10.
- I've reviewed websites and found the caution about wing tie down
being uncomfortably close to Gretz pitot tube, if mounted just outb'd of std
location for Van's pitot tube. My QB wings already have the square threaded
rod for the tie down eye bolts in the stock place, so I'm not planning to
move them outbd 1 bay - no access now.
- So, looks like rope would be running down and outbd from std tie down
point, right under the pitot tube, mounted slight further outbd. Been a
problem or is that a reasonable plan?
Appreciate any comments and words of wisdom on these two areas.
David
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
Subject: | Re: unsolicited email from SportFlyingShop.com |
Hmm not that I know of, but then again, I don't really use IE6. There
are however a slew of settings you can play with.
Active X does make it easier to get your info, if you do not tighten up
or disable IE6 Active X controls.
problem is some websites won't work without them. I'd say, the heck with
those websites..........
Gert
Ed Anderson wrote:
>
>
>>
>>Okay, from one friendly NWA to another NWA.
>>
>>No SportFlyingShop.com did not download anything, nor did I opt for
>>anything when looking at their website. Websites can and will download
>>your email address without your knowledge.
>>
>>It is not a virus, nor is it spyware adware or other ware, it's an
>>internet feature ;-)
>>
>>Gert
>>
>
>
>
> Gert, is there anyway to disable this "feature" in the MS IExplore 6.0
> Browser??
>
> Ed Anderson
> eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Wing wiring conduits & heated pitot tube |
From: | "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" <F.vanderHulst(at)ucol.ac.nz> |
Many people do run conduit there. From reading the RV-list, it seems
that getting the wires forward of the spar to the instrument panel might
be a bit awkward. I opted to drill new holes in the LE ribs for conduit,
and then to run wires between the fuel tanks and the spar (where the
tube to the pitot goes). I don't know how effective this is, since I
haven't actually run any wires.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
I'm studying my RV-6 QB wings & Dwg 10 showing aileron push tube, and
other dwgs and websites showing ways to route pitot tube tubing for
Gretz heated pitot tube.
Looks like lots of space in big lightening holes in all the ribs aft of
spar. Aileron pushtube has to go in there but seems there shouldn't be
any problem securing 1 or two small PVC pipes in there for 12volt wires
to strobes & position lights & RG-58 (0.20 inch OD) to a Bob Archer
antenna in each wing tip.
There'd be a 12 wire to landing light and 12 v wire to heated pitot
in left tip, plus air plumbing from pitot in left.
Ques 1: Has it been common practice to run wires in conduits aft of the
spar in those lightening holes? I'd secure the pvc at each end (root &
tip) with an Adel clamp. I'm thinking I'd let one pvc conduit lay on
the bottom of the lightening holes and mount the other opposite on the
top side (keep my strobe pwr wire sep from antenna cable, just in case)
- I can secure that upper conduit with 1 or more Adel clamps, starting
above the inspection plate area and outboard (that area is open on the
QB wings so I'd install the conduit before closing the wing). Seems
like the pvc conduits should be out of the way of the aileron tube in
inbd half of wing.
Learn real skills for the real world - Apply online
at http://www.ucol.ac.nz or call 0800 GO UCOL
(0800 46 8265) or txt free 3388 for more information
and make a good move to UCOL Universal College of
Learning.
Enrol with a public institute and be certain of your
future
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu> |
Subject: | Re: unsolicited email from SportFlyingShop.com |
Gert wrote:
> problem is some websites won't work without them. I'd say, the heck with
> those websites..........
You got my vote... :-)
-Dj
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: Low Fuel Pressure <6.0.1.1.0.20040521132943.032b6510(at)mail.brier.net> |
This sure sounds like Stew Bergner's problem, which was eventually
traced to AFP boost pump assembly. Are you listening stewie??
I don't remember the fix but I think he disabled the purge system?
On May 26, 2004, at 2:30 PM, Bob wrote:
>
> Some of you really smart guys might be able to help me out on this
> one. I
> am getting low fuel pressures during cruise flight. Normal fuel
> pressures
> are 22-24 PSI without Aux boost pump and 26-27 PSI with boost pump on.
> Now
> without the aux boost pump I get about 10-11 PSI in cruise, I get 24
> PSI at
> takeoff and landing. On the Sunday flight, when I had low pressures I
> turned on the boost pump and pressures went back to the 24 PSI
> range. Yesterday, after the PSI dropped, I turned on the boost pump,
> pressure went back up to normal range, then slowly dropped back to
> 10-11
> PSI. I turned the boost pump off and pressures dropped below 9 PSI.
>
> Engine is a IO 360 A1A (180 hp), Bendix fuel injection, and airflow
> performance boost pump with assembly (fuel return line/check valve) and
> fuel filter. All this stuff is plumbed according to airflow's
> instructions. The system has been working fine for the first 150
> hours. Since the last annual, it has been acting funny. The only
> things
> that I did to the fuel system during the annual was to clean the fuel
> filter and to clean the finger screen in the fuel servo.
>
> My mechanic said to fly and watch it, but I think now I need to do
> something. Any ideas would be appreciated.
>
> Bob
> RV6 NightFighter
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kathleen (rv7)" <Kathleen(at)rv7.us> |
Subject: | And When the Holes Don't Line Up? |
OK, I got lots of advice on this. I clecoed on the top skin -- at least
enough to realize it wouldn't fit. Then I took Mike Holland's advice. He
wrote, "What you need to do is remove the scrap aluminum tabs that attach
the j-stringers to the curved bulkhead. They are pop-riveted this way for
shipping. Once you do that you will note that the ends of the j's are
longer than necessary. With this freed you will find that the skin holes
align fine." He was right. Now I see that I got excited over nothing,
well, it looked like something when the skin and the bulkhead didn't fit.
Thanks Mike for the good advice...
Kathleen
www.rv7.us
Subject: And When the Holes Don't Line Up?
From: Kathleen (rv7) (Kathleen(at)rv7.us)
Date: Wed May 26 - 9:28 PM
In inspecting my QB (7a) fuselage I found that (f706) cabin member has a
noticeable bend in it. When it is forced straight, the metal (f652 upper
cabin bulkhead) bows out and there isn't any reasonable way to make it all
fit. OK, I don't know how to further explain, so there is a picture or two
at http://www.rv7.us/daily040516.htm The bottom line is that the
pre-punched holes don't line up. I've decided on a fix -- redrill the holes
in the back side and move the nutplates. That won't show inside the cabin,
but I'm not sure that the problem isn't with the rib (f-706). If it is, it
would mean that the outer skin wouldn't fit. Any suggestions on how I can
determine where the real culprit is? This is the way it came from Van's.
Any ideas? Anyone else have this problem?
Kathleen
www.rv7.us
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | lightspeed ignition buyers questions |
It's time to buy an ignition system. I can't use the Lasar due to my Mag
design (dual mag pack on a A1B6D engine from a Mooney).
I need a Lightspeed 101 class.
I guess Lightspeed is the best alternative since it's basically all anyone
discusses. What's the practical difference between Lightspeed Plasma II, the II
plus and the III? I don't see a picture in Van's catalog of how one would
view the optional outputs the II Plus and III offer. How's that work?
It sounds like if I go with the regular Plasma, I have to go with a push
button start system? I can't use a Key start? I never hear anyone discuss using
the Cockpit adjustable timing advance feature. Is that something that's only
useful during initial setup and not used in flight?
Any strong opinions out there on any of this?
thx in advance,
Lucky
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
Subject: | lightspeed ignition buyers questions |
Lucky,
The Jeff Rose ElectroAir system is also a good option. And Jeff also
provides good support.
We are (happily) flying with one of Jeff's systems and I am building using
one of Klaus' systems (Plasma II+). BOTH are good options. Both of these
options allow for a keyswitch.
Not trying to promote either. Just saying you do have options.
James
[SNIP]
> I guess Lightspeed is the best alternative since it's basically
> all anyone
> discusses. What's the practical difference between Lightspeed
[SNIP]
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Brian Alley <n320wt(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | lightspeed ignition buyers questions |
I purchased the Lightspeed system based on the minimum
operating voltage. The Rose system will quite around
10 volts I believe. The Lightspeed system is
advertised to operate on as low as 4 volts. If you
loose an alternator you'll have some extra time to
find an airport.
====
BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
304-872-7938 shop
304-562-6800 home
How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Christopher Stone <rv8iator(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Wing wiring conduits & heated pitot tube |
We (two RV-8s being built simultaneously) enlarged the tooling holes (step drill)
in the ribs aft of the spar to accept flexable pvc conduit purchased from Van's.
It's ~1 in diameter, large enough for wires for strobes, position, landing
lights and antenna coax. The pitot-static lines are routed through prepunched
holes provided for them. There are plastic bushing provided to support
the aluminum pitot-static tubing.
Chris Stone
-8 wings
Newberg, OR
-----Original Message-----
From: "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" <F.vanderHulst(at)ucol.ac.nz>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Wing wiring conduits & heated pitot tube
Many people do run conduit there. From reading the RV-list, it seems
that getting the wires forward of the spar to the instrument panel might
be a bit awkward. I opted to drill new holes in the LE ribs for conduit,
and then to run wires between the fuel tanks and the spar (where the
tube to the pitot goes). I don't know how effective this is, since I
haven't actually run any wires.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
I'm studying my RV-6 QB wings & Dwg 10 showing aileron push tube, and
other dwgs and websites showing ways to route pitot tube tubing for
Gretz heated pitot tube.
Looks like lots of space in big lightening holes in all the ribs aft of
spar. Aileron pushtube has to go in there but seems there shouldn't be
any problem securing 1 or two small PVC pipes in there for 12volt wires
to strobes & position lights & RG-58 (0.20 inch OD) to a Bob Archer
antenna in each wing tip.
There'd be a 12 wire to landing light and 12 v wire to heated pitot
in left tip, plus air plumbing from pitot in left.
Ques 1: Has it been common practice to run wires in conduits aft of the
spar in those lightening holes? I'd secure the pvc at each end (root &
tip) with an Adel clamp. I'm thinking I'd let one pvc conduit lay on
the bottom of the lightening holes and mount the other opposite on the
top side (keep my strobe pwr wire sep from antenna cable, just in case)
- I can secure that upper conduit with 1 or more Adel clamps, starting
above the inspection plate area and outboard (that area is open on the
QB wings so I'd install the conduit before closing the wing). Seems
like the pvc conduits should be out of the way of the aileron tube in
inbd half of wing.
Learn real skills for the real world - Apply online
at http://www.ucol.ac.nz or call 0800 GO UCOL
(0800 46 8265) or txt free 3388 for more information
and make a good move to UCOL Universal College of
Learning.
Enrol with a public institute and be certain of your
future
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ken Balch <kbalch(at)cfl.rr.com> |
Well, it's time to buy some of the expensive pieces of the new project,
so my RV-8 is for sale. The full details:
RV-8 150TT - empty weight 1110 - built from a standard kit
IO-360-A1B6 (200+HP) 150SMOH by Bart Lalonde (AeroSport Power) - the case
& crank were certified by Bart to conform to new limits or better and
everything else is new
- Hartzell C2YK prop - new from Van's
- Airflow Performance fuel injection system with purge valve
- Lightspeed electronic ignition system
- Vetterman crossover exhaust
- Denso 35amp alternator
- SkyTec lightweight starter
- Stewart Warner oil cooler - new from Pacific Oil Cooler
- Fuel tanks professionally built by Evan Johnson with flop tube in left
tank
- Infinity grip with PTT, coolie hat two-axis trim, start button, flap
switch & two unassigned buttons
- Andair fuel selector
- Deluxe throttle quadrant from Van's
- Halon fire extinguisher
- ACK ELT
- Brake reservoirs on pedals with no low pressure plastic tubing.
- Cowling installed with Camlocs. No hinges fwf.
- Becki Orndorff seats - navy blue w/gray chevron
- Hooker harnesses
All instruments & avionics brand new:
UPS GX-65 GPS/Comm
UPS SL-70 Transponder
UMA airspeed indicator - knots
SigmaTek attitude indicator - vacuum
Altimeter - 20K'
Turn coordinator
SigmaTek directional gyro - vacuum
RMI uEncoder
Manifold pressure - Van's
Tachometer - Van's
Oil temp - Van's
Oil pressure - Van's
EGT - Van's (one channel - cylinder #3)
CHT - Van's (one channel - Cylinder #3)
G meter
Clock - Electronics International
Volt/Ammeter - Electronics International
Magnetic compass - S.I.R.S.
Fuel computer - Electronics International
Dual fuel gauge - Electronics International
suction gauge
digital trim indicators (two-axis)
PS Engineering intercom
Hobbs meter
toggle switches for magneto & electronic ignition
Electrical system & wiring per Van's plans and utilizing Van's harness
kit.
Full custom paint job in a stylized, Stars & Stripes scheme. The design
was my idea, refined by Craig Barnett (Scheme Designers), and further
refined & executed by John Stahr (Stahr Design). The plane was
extensively hand airbrushed, with rippling depth effects and
embroidered-look stars & N numbers. It was a hit at SnF 2004. The plane
was photographed by Sport Aviation for an upcoming feature and will be
mentioned in Kitplanes next month.
Photos:
www.clubphoto.com/_cgi-bin/app.pl/albums/large_image_view?id=2288801&link_code=sa01_17
The plane is located in Kissimmee, Florida. I will deliver it anywhere
in the US for expenses.
$136,000
Regards,
Ken Balch
RV-8 N118KB
Pitts Model 12 #228
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
Subject: | Finding AD's for your engine... |
rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com, RV10(at)yahoogroups.com
Thanks to Mike Robertson for helping me find the AD's for my engine... I
should be assembling my engine this weekend and back in the air soon! I've
been starting to have withdrawals, but flying with my buddy in the Yak-52
seems to help! :)
I just thought I would pass along some instructions on how to do this for
yourself if you're interested...
How to find AD's that apply to your engine:
Go to the FAA's Regulatory and Guidance Library (be careful of line rap in
the URL below):
http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgAD.nsf/MainFrame?OpenFrameSet
Click on Current ADs - By Make
Click on the "L" at the top of the page
Find Lycoming Engines in the list and click on the link
Find your engine and click on the link
Hope this helps!
-Bill VonDane
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | BBreckenridge(at)att.net |
Subject: | RE: Wing wiring conduits & heated pitot tube |
Ques 2: Few months ago some folks reported large jumps in price of Gretz
pitot tubes. Besides salvage, is there a lower priced alternative for new
heated pitot that has any track record of reliability - or potential, if
new? Is Dynon coming out with their own heated pitot tube? I'm planning on
a D-10.
David;
I just ordered Dynon's heated PITOT from SafeAir1 for $199 (http://www.safeair1.com/index.htm). Delivery won't be til late July or so. I found it, lost it, dug for it, found it again! Now, I can't tell you exactly how to find it on their website again. The non-heated version is easily found. I received my invoice yesterday and it clearly states "heated" pitot. I ordered it based on list conversation some time back of how expensive these things have gotten.
Bruce Breckenridge
RV-10 #18
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
<6.0.1.1.0.20040521132943.032b6510(at)mail.brier.net>
Subject: | Re: Low Fuel Pressure |
<6.0.1.1.0.20040521132943.032b6510(at)mail.brier.net>
I would also take a look at the main filter again. Something may have come
loose and is now partially blocking the outlet.
Mike Robertson
>From: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Low Fuel Pressure
><6.0.1.1.0.20040521132943.032b6510(at)mail.brier.net>
>Date: Thu, 27 May 2004 06:57:18 -0600
>
>
>This sure sounds like Stew Bergner's problem, which was eventually
>traced to AFP boost pump assembly. Are you listening stewie??
>
>I don't remember the fix but I think he disabled the purge system?
>
>
>On May 26, 2004, at 2:30 PM, Bob wrote:
>
> >
> > Some of you really smart guys might be able to help me out on this
> > one. I
> > am getting low fuel pressures during cruise flight. Normal fuel
> > pressures
> > are 22-24 PSI without Aux boost pump and 26-27 PSI with boost pump on.
> > Now
> > without the aux boost pump I get about 10-11 PSI in cruise, I get 24
> > PSI at
> > takeoff and landing. On the Sunday flight, when I had low pressures I
> > turned on the boost pump and pressures went back to the 24 PSI
> > range. Yesterday, after the PSI dropped, I turned on the boost pump,
> > pressure went back up to normal range, then slowly dropped back to
> > 10-11
> > PSI. I turned the boost pump off and pressures dropped below 9 PSI.
> >
> > Engine is a IO 360 A1A (180 hp), Bendix fuel injection, and airflow
> > performance boost pump with assembly (fuel return line/check valve) and
> > fuel filter. All this stuff is plumbed according to airflow's
> > instructions. The system has been working fine for the first 150
> > hours. Since the last annual, it has been acting funny. The only
> > things
> > that I did to the fuel system during the annual was to clean the fuel
> > filter and to clean the finger screen in the fuel servo.
> >
> > My mechanic said to fly and watch it, but I think now I need to do
> > something. Any ideas would be appreciated.
> >
> > Bob
> > RV6 NightFighter
> >
> >
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Get 200+ ad-free, high-fidelity stations and LIVE Major League Baseball
Gameday Audio! http://radio.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200491ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: unsolicited email from SportFlyingShop.com |
From: | "Dave Parsons" <rvl(at)davepar.com> |
> Gert, is there anyway to disable this "feature" in the MS IExplore 6.0
> Browser??
I have to jump in here. Internet Explorer does not send your email address
to web sites that you visit. You are most likely getting junk mail from
posting to this list. Since our email addresses are posted on the
Matronics rv-list web site archive, anybody can write a program to search
through the archive and pick up the email addresses. I use different email
addresses for every service I sign up for. The only junk mail I am getting
is from the address I use for this list.
Dave
Seattle
RV-7A wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com> |
Subject: | RE: Finding AD's for your engine... |
Here is a link to the Lycoming Service Bulletins, like the 505B and 475C.
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main.jsp?bodyPage/support/publications/main
tenancePublications/serviceBulletins.html
Matthew Brandes,
Van's RV-9A (Wings/Fuselage)
EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com> |
Subject: | RE: lightspeed ignition buyers questions |
Lucky,
I found this site with a picture and diagram.
http://www.sx300group.org/hangar_talk.htm
Matthew Brandes,
Van's RV-9A (Wings/Fuselage)
EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RE: lightspeed ignition buyers questions |
Hey, you win! Thanks for the information as you saved me from making a
mistake if I had ordered the Jeff Rose system. My engine only has one mag
accessory hole which drives both mag packs (that's what the D is about in the A1B6D).
I plan on using one single mag so I'll still need the
In a message dated 5/28/2004 4:45:48 PM Eastern Standard Time,
matthew(at)n523rv.com writes:
Lucky,
I found this site with a picture and diagram.
http://www.sx300group.org/hangar_talk.htm
Matthew Brandes,
Van's RV-9A (Wings/Fuselage)
EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tim Barnes" <meangreenrv4(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Bakersfield EAA BBQ |
Chapter 71 BBQ will be held June 5, @ L45 (Bakersfield Muni) There are a few
things that we will try to approve on, this year we will serve at 1:00pm,
the cost is only $ 10.00. Lots of planes and hangar talk. So if you will be
going to Merced this year fly over to L45 and get a Tri-Tip lunch, visit
with old friends or make some new ones. If you still have some questions you
can call (661) 836-1028
Get 200+ ad-free, high-fidelity stations and LIVE Major League Baseball
Gameday Audio! http://radio.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200491ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Are Barstad" <are_barstad(at)norlogic.com> |
Okay - this is embarrassing... After assembling one of my flaps I noticed
that I must have forgot to dimple one side of the main spar - D'Oh! The side
with the hinge is dimpled but not the side under the top skin.
While I'm confident it will never come apart, I'm not sure if it will pass
inspection.
I have no idea how I could forget this and not notice before riveting. I can
only fix this by building a new flap since it would be impossible to salvage
due to cherry max rivets on the spar where the ribs are attached. It would
be a shame since the flap otherwise looks like a million bucks...
Does anyone have any experience with this?
Are
RV-8 - Wings
---
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
Subject: | Re: Bakersfield EAA BBQ |
Tim,
Are you doing this in conjunction with the car show and RC models like
you did awhile back or is it like the old days, just a fly-in?
Laird
On May 28, 2004, at 2:10 PM, Tim Barnes wrote:
>
>
> Chapter 71 BBQ will be held June 5, @ L45 (Bakersfield Muni) There are
> a few
> things that we will try to approve on, this year we will serve at
> 1:00pm,
> the cost is only $ 10.00. Lots of planes and hangar talk. So if you
> will be
> going to Merced this year fly over to L45 and get a Tri-Tip lunch,
> visit
> with old friends or make some new ones. If you still have some
> questions you
> can call (661) 836-1028
>
> Get 200+ ad-free, high-fidelity stations and LIVE Major League Baseball
> Gameday Audio!
> http://radio.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200491ave/direct/01/
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Missing dimples |
Can you simply drill out the rivets that are in the
un-dimpled holes, then machine countersink the holes
and re-rivet?
--- Are Barstad wrote:
>
>
> Okay - this is embarrassing... After assembling one
> of my flaps I noticed
> that I must have forgot to dimple one side of the
> main spar - D'Oh! The side
> with the hinge is dimpled but not the side under the
> top skin.
>
> While I'm confident it will never come apart, I'm
> not sure if it will pass
> inspection.
>
> I have no idea how I could forget this and not
> notice before riveting. I can
> only fix this by building a new flap since it would
> be impossible to salvage
> due to cherry max rivets on the spar where the ribs
> are attached. It would
> be a shame since the flap otherwise looks like a
> million bucks...
>
> Does anyone have any experience with this?
>
> Are
> RV-8 - Wings
> ---
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://messenger.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
Subject: | Re: lightspeed ignition buyers questions |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Alley" <n320wt(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: lightspeed ignition buyers questions
>
> I purchased the Lightspeed system based on the minimum
> operating voltage. The Rose system will quite around
> 10 volts I believe. The Lightspeed system is
> advertised to operate on as low as 4 volts. If you
> loose an alternator you'll have some extra time to
> find an airport.
>
> ====
> BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
> CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
> 304-872-7938 shop
> 304-562-6800 home
>
((((((((((())))))))))))))
That is why it is good to have the other half of the spark plugs driven by a
magneto. Even if the battery fails to deliver, for what ever reason, you
still have spark plugs working. EI with magneto is a safer system with
alternate power source for contingency.
I suggest you consider Bob Nuckoll's methodology of using an endurance buss
system with a yearly new 17 amp hour battery. With not more than 8 amps
draw on the endurance buss, there will be 2 hours to find that airport or
continue your flight to final destination if the alternator quits provided
you have a fully charged and capable battery. For more information on the
endurance buss and Bob Nuckolls, visit
http://www.matronics.com/subscription/ and subscribe to aeroelectric-list
or search aeroelectric-list archives at
http://www.matronics.com/searching/ws_script.cgi
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
Subject: | Re: Missing dimples |
No experience with this -- however -- You should be able to drill them out.
If that fails, you can always buy new parts and do the work over. You are
not the first person/builder to do this and you will not be the last.
Other alternatives? You should call Vans and see what they advise.
Indiana Larry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Are Barstad" <are_barstad(at)norlogic.com>
Subject: RV-List: Missing dimples
>
> Okay - this is embarrassing... After assembling one of my flaps I noticed
> that I must have forgot to dimple one side of the main spar - D'Oh! The
side
> with the hinge is dimpled but not the side under the top skin.
>
> While I'm confident it will never come apart, I'm not sure if it will pass
> inspection.
>
> I have no idea how I could forget this and not notice before riveting. I
can
> only fix this by building a new flap since it would be impossible to
salvage
> due to cherry max rivets on the spar where the ribs are attached. It would
> be a shame since the flap otherwise looks like a million bucks...
>
> Does anyone have any experience with this?
>
> Are
> RV-8 - Wings
> ---
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
Subject: | Re: Missing dimples |
Hello Are,
If I am reading your email correctly:
Are the the Cherry Max rivets you refer to the structural type? if so they
will have a steel shank in the center that can be driven out with a pin
punch. In some cases a die grinder or Dremel is needed to remove most of the
rivet head Once the pin is removed they can be drilled out with ease.
This then should allow you to salvage the good parts and or allow you to
dimple the forgotten dimples and then get back to building. If you feel the
skin or any other part is damaged too much replacement will be your choice.
If the Cherry Max rivets you refer to are the lighter duty type that come
with the kit you should be able to drill them out with little effort.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Are Barstad" <are_barstad(at)norlogic.com>
Subject: RV-List: Missing dimples
>
> Okay - this is embarrassing... After assembling one of my flaps I noticed
> that I must have forgot to dimple one side of the main spar - D'Oh! The
side
> with the hinge is dimpled but not the side under the top skin.
>
> While I'm confident it will never come apart, I'm not sure if it will pass
> inspection.
>
> I have no idea how I could forget this and not notice before riveting. I
can
> only fix this by building a new flap since it would be impossible to
salvage
> due to cherry max rivets on the spar where the ribs are attached. It would
> be a shame since the flap otherwise looks like a million bucks...
>
> Does anyone have any experience with this?
>
> Are
> RV-8 - Wings
> ---
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV-7A(at)austin.rr.com |
Subject: | Rotating Fuselage Stands for Sale. |
I am building and selling Fuselage Stands that support all RV's for $250. I have them listed on Ebay as well. Feel free to email me for info. RV-7A@Austin.RR.com Pics are here. http://jeffsrv7a.com/Fusejig.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
Subject: | lightspeed ignition buyers questions |
Those "operating voltages" may not be as far apart as you may think. In any
case though if you take the midpoint for both, you still should have some
time before your ("in good health .... right??") battery goes dead.
Also I **THINK** there is a difference in where they operate in the
"starting the engine" mode vs once the engine is running. Don't have the
numbers and details right now but a friend of mine has noticed this.
Again, both systems are good systems.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Brian Alley
> Sent: Friday, May 28, 2004 9:10 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: lightspeed ignition buyers questions
>
>
> I purchased the Lightspeed system based on the minimum
> operating voltage. The Rose system will quite around
> 10 volts I believe. The Lightspeed system is
> advertised to operate on as low as 4 volts. If you
> loose an alternator you'll have some extra time to
> find an airport.
>
> ====
> BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
> CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
> 304-872-7938 shop
> 304-562-6800 home
>
> How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
"'owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com '"(at)matronics.com
Subject: | bearing material |
Laird,
big bummer,
Obviously don't run the engine at all, but its really unusual to see bearing
wear this early in the life of a proven engine.
Was there a lot of metal?
Lycoming has a sb on the 100% replacement items during OH, but its a long
list. The downside is things like cams and lifter bodies tend to go after
TBO so now you are in the quandry of dealing with that in another 1000 hours
again, given that they pass muster now.
Its true that there are service limits and new limits, but the service
limits aren't that great, and on many parts you will not reach TBO by using
them.
I'm not convinced you yet know what caused the premature failure or where it
is specifically.
One option is to pull the cylinders and see if its a con bearing. If so, and
the metal load was very low, then your bottom end mains may be ok. In this
case the OH is just a disassembly, clean, replace all bearings and seals and
reassemble.
The other thing that I don't yet know is was there any other contaminants
such as silicon or steel. Bearings can be wiped by failing things like an
oil pump, or a bad air filter letting a lot of dirt in. This latter will
usually show up as poor compresion first though.
Re shops, Lycon does seem to be the best in our sorta local area, to which
I've never heard of a complaint. This is definately an area where you get
what you pay for, but paying big bucks doesn't ensure that. Take the time to
have a long conversation with them. If they know their stuff they will grant
you that luxury. Most good pros know that this is a part of running a good
business and maintaining a strong reputation.
I would also add that you are more than competent to tear this down your
self and explore it some more, and in fact, possibly repair it your self.
I've built a lot of aircraft and automotive engines, and like anything else,
taking your time, getting good info, borrowing the right tools when you need
them, etc will produce a good job and you will gain from the experience.
And worse case, if you tear it down and all looks nasty, box it up and mail
it off. But at least you will be confident at that point that it really
needed a full OH.
I'd be happy to pop up and look at it once you got it apart, or anytime for
that matter.
W
From: Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com>
Subject: RV-List: Questions For An Overhaul Shop
Hi all,
So much for having TOO much fun in the Bahamas last month.
After I got home from the trip, I changed the oil and found metal in
the oil filter. 950 TTSN, in 3 years. Lycoming confirmed it was
bearing material. %$#@!!! There were no symptoms during the last
flights, such as low oil pressure (75psi warm) or vibration. I had just
finished flying 45 hrs in the previous 2 weeks, with nothing in the
filter on the last oil change.
At this point I'm not interested in doing the overhaul myself, even
assisted, so I'm looking for a shop to do an overhaul to get back
flying.
Right now I've got some shops in my mind (including Aero Sport) but I'm
not quite sure how to approach them.
How do I approach these companies to compare prices to get an "apples
to apples comparison. I'm sure they'd want to look at the engine
before making any quote. I can't send them all the engine. I want to
make sure I look around to get a warm fuzzy when I end up sending it
someone and parting with the next 5 years of my expendable income.
Would asking them for a quote on their labor costs for a "standard"
(whatever that is) overhaul would be the right way to do it?. Or a
quote on an overhaul with all parts assumed good, like crankcase,
crank, cam, pistons and cylinders. (I know that there will be some
components that'll need replacing, but with a 1000hr motor since new,
there should be a lot of good parts, except what has been damaged from
the bearing giving up.)
Any other ideas?
Since this is the first experience with this kind of experience, any
suggestions would be welcomed.
TIA,
Laird RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
"'owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com '"(at)matronics.com
Subject: | automotive parts |
Folks,
Automotive coolant hoses are not rated for constant fuel and oil exposure,
they will usually begin the swell and sweat the oil through. They can also
delaminate internally and then possibly cause a plug. I would never use this
in a breather installation.
Use the soft 3003 aluminum versa tube with the 303 hose and ss clamps for
the connections.
RE little crankcase vent filter used in cars. These are most often
integrated with a PCV valve, to which you wouldn't want in an AC engine.
These can not only plug up, but they are rated for a specific flow and most
of us do not have access to what that is, or how to appropriately rate one
to a lycoming.
If either of these plug, you will have your front seal move out, or a case
gasket move out, and a big oil leak to follow.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Phil Birkelbach" <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
Subject: | Re: unsolicited email from SportFlyingShop.com |
> No SportFlyingShop.com did not download anything, nor did I opt for
> anything when looking at their website. Websites can and will download
> your email address without your knowledge.
>
Sorry but this is simply not true. There is (or was) an HTTP header that
was used for this purpose but your email only get's sent to webservers if
YOUR browser writes this header entry. The webserver has no way to download
your email address. Your browser my have the ability to send your address
and if you are using an old version of IE that may be happening, but most
(if not all) browsers have stopped this practice. I did a little test on my
webserver once just so see how many of my visitors had browsers that were
sending email addresses and I didn't get any.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Panel
http://www.myrv7.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | RE: Finding AD's for your engine... |
Matthew
Thanks for the info - have bookmarked it,
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: RE: Finding AD's for your engine...
>Date: Fri, 28 May 2004 15:17:36 -0500
>
>
>Here is a link to the Lycoming Service Bulletins, like the 505B and 475C.
>
>http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main.jsp?bodyPage/support/publications/main
>tenancePublications/serviceBulletins.html
>
>
>Matthew Brandes,
>Van's RV-9A (Wings/Fuselage)
>EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
>www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/>
>
>
Watch LIVE baseball games on your computer with MLB.TV, included with MSN
Premium! http://join.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200439ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Barnyard BOb" <rv3a(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: unsolicited email from SportFlyingShop.com |
> > No SportFlyingShop.com did not download anything, nor did I opt for
> > anything when looking at their website. Websites can and will download
> > your email address without your knowledge.
> >
>
> Sorry but this is simply not true. There is (or was) an HTTP header that
> was used for this purpose but your email only get's sent to webservers if
> YOUR browser writes this header entry. The webserver has no way to
download
> your email address. Your browser my have the ability to send your address
> and if you are using an old version of IE that may be happening, but most
> (if not all) browsers have stopped this practice. I did a little test on
my
> webserver once just so see how many of my visitors had browsers that were
> sending email addresses and I didn't get any.
>
> Godspeed,
>
> Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
> RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Panel
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
What roll do cookies play?
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Governor Problem - MT Governor |
With about 19 hours on the -7, I had a problem this morning. On the runup I noticed
that there was no prop RPM drop off and it felt like there was no resistance
on the other end of the control cable. I went back to the hangar and un-cowled
and found the control arm and rod end resting on the shelf of the firewall
recess. The small metric bolt that held the control arm in place had backed
out and the arm had worked itself off the splined shaft. To be honest, I am
not sure that I checked to make sure the lock washer was in place and properly
installed. My assumption now is that the governor probably came without the
tabs on the lock washer bent--perhaps anticipating having to re-clock the arm.
But I'm not sure. Anyway, can anyone shine any light on this, and does anyone
have any suggestions on where one might find one of these metric bolts?
The bolt appears to be about the size of a #8 screw.
More importantly it might be a good idea to check your governor control arm if
you have the MT governor. The lock washer has a tab that bends over the arm and
another that bends in the opposite direction to capture the bolt.
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 All Flying
Vero Beach, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ladyrat01(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Governor Problem - MT Governor |
DROP DEAD RUMP ASS
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: Governor Problem - MT Governor |
For the metric stuff, visit your neighborhood ace aircraft supply. Ace
is the place!
Linn
Pat Hatch wrote:
>
>With about 19 hours on the -7, I had a problem this morning. On the runup I noticed
that there was no prop RPM drop off and it felt like there was no resistance
on the other end of the control cable. I went back to the hangar and un-cowled
and found the control arm and rod end resting on the shelf of the firewall
recess. The small metric bolt that held the control arm in place had backed
out and the arm had worked itself off the splined shaft. To be honest, I
am not sure that I checked to make sure the lock washer was in place and properly
installed. My assumption now is that the governor probably came without the
tabs on the lock washer bent--perhaps anticipating having to re-clock the arm.
But I'm not sure. Anyway, can anyone shine any light on this, and does anyone
have any suggestions on where one might find one of these metric bolts?
The bolt appears to be about the size of a #8 screw.
>
>More importantly it might be a good idea to check your governor control arm if
you have the MT governor. The lock washer has a tab that bends over the arm
and another that bends in the opposite direction to capture the bolt.
>
>Pat Hatch
>RV-4
>RV-6
>RV-7 All Flying
>Vero Beach, FL
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jordan Grant" <gra9933(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Governor Problem - MT Governor |
Pat,
I recently installed my MT Governor. Like you said, it came with
instructions to set the arm to the proper clock position you want, then to
bend over the washer yourself. I think this is something that is easily
forgotten - especially if you don't need to reset the arm. I'm going to
write myself a note to remember to do that before I fly.
Jordan Grant
RV-6 - Working on the fuel System
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Pat Hatch
Subject: RV-List: Governor Problem - MT Governor
With about 19 hours on the -7, I had a problem this morning. On the runup I
noticed that there was no prop RPM drop off and it felt like there was no
resistance on the other end of the control cable. I went back to the hangar
and un-cowled and found the control arm and rod end resting on the shelf of
the firewall recess. The small metric bolt that held the control arm in
place had backed out and the arm had worked itself off the splined shaft.
To be honest, I am not sure that I checked to make sure the lock washer was
in place and properly installed. My assumption now is that the governor
probably came without the tabs on the lock washer bent--perhaps anticipating
having to re-clock the arm. But I'm not sure. Anyway, can anyone shine any
light on this, and does anyone have any suggestions on where one might find
one of these metric bolts? The bolt appears to be about the size of a #8
screw.
More importantly it might be a good idea to check your governor control arm
if you have the MT governor. The lock washer has a tab that bends over the
arm and another that bends in the opposite direction to capture the bolt.
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 All Flying
Vero Beach, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Anglin" <jlanglin44(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Matronics trim governor |
Would it be possible for one of these to come with a direct short to ground
in the circuit? I wired mine into the system and the yellow common wire
that is supposed to go to the coolie hat switch is grounded. I don't get
it.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
Subject: | Re: Governor Problem - MT Governor |
I would think that safety wiring the bolt would be much more foolproof than
the bent-up washer thing. I did bend up the washer, but it seemed on the
hokey side to me.
It's been a while since I looked closely at mine, but if I recall, the bolt
head isn't fat enough for a lunk like me to try drilling it myself.
If anybody happens to find a source for those metric bolts with a drilled
head, please pass the word on.
Thanks,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jordan Grant" <gra9933(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Governor Problem - MT Governor
>
> Pat,
> I recently installed my MT Governor. Like you said, it came with
> instructions to set the arm to the proper clock position you want, then to
> bend over the washer yourself. I think this is something that is easily
> forgotten - especially if you don't need to reset the arm. I'm going to
> write myself a note to remember to do that before I fly.
>
> Jordan Grant
> RV-6 - Working on the fuel System
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Pat Hatch
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Governor Problem - MT Governor
>
>
> With about 19 hours on the -7, I had a problem this morning. On the runup
I
> noticed that there was no prop RPM drop off and it felt like there was no
> resistance on the other end of the control cable. I went back to the
hangar
> and un-cowled and found the control arm and rod end resting on the shelf
of
> the firewall recess. The small metric bolt that held the control arm in
> place had backed out and the arm had worked itself off the splined shaft.
> To be honest, I am not sure that I checked to make sure the lock washer
was
> in place and properly installed. My assumption now is that the governor
> probably came without the tabs on the lock washer bent--perhaps
anticipating
> having to re-clock the arm. But I'm not sure. Anyway, can anyone shine
any
> light on this, and does anyone have any suggestions on where one might
find
> one of these metric bolts? The bolt appears to be about the size of a #8
> screw.
>
> More importantly it might be a good idea to check your governor control
arm
> if you have the MT governor. The lock washer has a tab that bends over
the
> arm and another that bends in the opposite direction to capture the bolt.
>
> Pat Hatch
> RV-4
> RV-6
> RV-7 All Flying
> Vero Beach, FL
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Governor Problem - MT Governor |
Jordan, thanks for the reply. You know, on further inspection of some
photographs that I have of the governor installation, it looks like the tabs
are bent over. So now I'm wondering whether the arm just slipped off the
shaft and then the bolt backed out. Not sure, but now I'm thinking about
drilling the hole out for an AN3 bolt and using a castle nut on the other
side. I am not a big fan of lock washers in an installation like this
anyway. Also, this way I won't have to wait a week for a metric bolt to get
here in the mail. I am still debating whether I want to do this or not or
maybe even use a #8 screw with a metal stop nut. As you know, the arm is
not very wide and an AN3 bolt might be too big. And obviously I would
probably void the warranty if I go this route. Anyone have any thoughts on
this?
Pat
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jordan Grant" <gra9933(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Governor Problem - MT Governor
>
> Pat,
> I recently installed my MT Governor. Like you said, it came with
> instructions to set the arm to the proper clock position you want, then to
> bend over the washer yourself. I think this is something that is easily
> forgotten - especially if you don't need to reset the arm. I'm going to
> write myself a note to remember to do that before I fly.
>
> Jordan Grant
> RV-6 - Working on the fuel System
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Pat Hatch
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Governor Problem - MT Governor
>
>
> With about 19 hours on the -7, I had a problem this morning. On the runup
I
> noticed that there was no prop RPM drop off and it felt like there was no
> resistance on the other end of the control cable. I went back to the
hangar
> and un-cowled and found the control arm and rod end resting on the shelf
of
> the firewall recess. The small metric bolt that held the control arm in
> place had backed out and the arm had worked itself off the splined shaft.
> To be honest, I am not sure that I checked to make sure the lock washer
was
> in place and properly installed. My assumption now is that the governor
> probably came without the tabs on the lock washer bent--perhaps
anticipating
> having to re-clock the arm. But I'm not sure. Anyway, can anyone shine
any
> light on this, and does anyone have any suggestions on where one might
find
> one of these metric bolts? The bolt appears to be about the size of a #8
> screw.
>
> More importantly it might be a good idea to check your governor control
arm
> if you have the MT governor. The lock washer has a tab that bends over
the
> arm and another that bends in the opposite direction to capture the bolt.
>
> Pat Hatch
> RV-4
> RV-6
> RV-7 All Flying
> Vero Beach, FL
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Governor Problem - MT Governor |
Pat Loctite works better than drilling a hole in the shaft-Tom
Tom Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
President EAA Chapter 1097
wfact01(at)aol.com
249 Hard Hill Road North
PO Box 426
Bethlehem, CT 06751
Tel: 203-266-5300
Fax: 202-266-5140
EAA Technical/Flight Advisor
RV-8 540 LYC (Engine Runs, Taxi-Tests)
S-51 Mustang Turbine (Under Construction)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Larry G RV-7 N697RV <edge540t(at)direcway.com> |
Subject: | Fuel tank proseal ! |
On the AN fittings for the fuel and vent fittings do I need to scuff up the fittings
at all or just clean with MEK. And how tight is tight on the fittings. Is
there a number for torque.
Larry Gobin
RV-7
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
Subject: | Re: Matronics trim governor |
>
>Would it be possible for one of these to come with a direct short to ground
>in the circuit? I wired mine into the system and the yellow common wire
>that is supposed to go to the coolie hat switch is grounded. I don't get
>it.
Jim,
My Matronics Governor Mk III docs say that that yellow wire may be
optionally connected to ground. In that case the common wire from
the coolie hat switch would also be connected to ground. I think
your trim governor is probably perfectly fine.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
Subject: | Re: Governor Problem - MT Governor |
Depends on where you live, but even back in the 70's I
could get top quality German bolts at the nearest
auto parts store. Metric stuff is pretty widely used
everywhere in the world, even the USA and UK, except
in aviation.
I'd also check with MT to explain the problem, and
try to find out if there is a "fix". This could help
other people in the future.
My 1/50th of a dollar.
Mickey
>... Also, this way I won't have to wait a week for a metric bolt to get
>here in the mail. I am still debating whether I want to do this or not or
>maybe even use a #8 screw with a metal stop nut. As you know, the arm is
>not very wide and an AN3 bolt might be too big. And obviously I would
>probably void the warranty if I go this route. Anyone have any thoughts on
>this?
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JhnstnIII(at)aol.com |
Subject: | drawing 25 and firewall penetrations and 0-360 |
Listers--Have checked the archives and can't find this one. Does anyone know
if the firewall penetration locations on drawing 25 (RV-6) work for the 0-360
A1A? Thanks. --LeRoy Johnston, Columbus, OH, RV-6, firewall forward.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Governor Problem - MT Governor |
Pat,
You may want to replace it with a metric stainless steel socket head (Allen)
screw. They are available from our friendly Lowe's or Ace hardware. Then
drill the head for .022 safety wire. I have found over time that this
set-up works quite well.
Mike Robertson
>From: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Governor Problem - MT Governor
>Date: Sat, 29 May 2004 19:01:39 -0400
>
>
>Jordan, thanks for the reply. You know, on further inspection of some
>photographs that I have of the governor installation, it looks like the
>tabs
>are bent over. So now I'm wondering whether the arm just slipped off the
>shaft and then the bolt backed out. Not sure, but now I'm thinking about
>drilling the hole out for an AN3 bolt and using a castle nut on the other
>side. I am not a big fan of lock washers in an installation like this
>anyway. Also, this way I won't have to wait a week for a metric bolt to
>get
>here in the mail. I am still debating whether I want to do this or not or
>maybe even use a #8 screw with a metal stop nut. As you know, the arm is
>not very wide and an AN3 bolt might be too big. And obviously I would
>probably void the warranty if I go this route. Anyone have any thoughts on
>this?
>
>Pat
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Jordan Grant" <gra9933(at)bellsouth.net>
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Governor Problem - MT Governor
>
>
> >
> > Pat,
> > I recently installed my MT Governor. Like you said, it came with
> > instructions to set the arm to the proper clock position you want, then
>to
> > bend over the washer yourself. I think this is something that is easily
> > forgotten - especially if you don't need to reset the arm. I'm going to
> > write myself a note to remember to do that before I fly.
> >
> > Jordan Grant
> > RV-6 - Working on the fuel System
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Pat Hatch
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV-List: Governor Problem - MT Governor
> >
> >
> >
> > With about 19 hours on the -7, I had a problem this morning. On the
>runup
>I
> > noticed that there was no prop RPM drop off and it felt like there was
>no
> > resistance on the other end of the control cable. I went back to the
>hangar
> > and un-cowled and found the control arm and rod end resting on the shelf
>of
> > the firewall recess. The small metric bolt that held the control arm in
> > place had backed out and the arm had worked itself off the splined
>shaft.
> > To be honest, I am not sure that I checked to make sure the lock washer
>was
> > in place and properly installed. My assumption now is that the governor
> > probably came without the tabs on the lock washer bent--perhaps
>anticipating
> > having to re-clock the arm. But I'm not sure. Anyway, can anyone shine
>any
> > light on this, and does anyone have any suggestions on where one might
>find
> > one of these metric bolts? The bolt appears to be about the size of a
>#8
> > screw.
> >
> > More importantly it might be a good idea to check your governor control
>arm
> > if you have the MT governor. The lock washer has a tab that bends over
>the
> > arm and another that bends in the opposite direction to capture the
>bolt.
> >
> > Pat Hatch
> > RV-4
> > RV-6
> > RV-7 All Flying
> > Vero Beach, FL
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
Here in the Colorado mountains I find that one of the most important factors
effecting weather is the jet stream. If you want a good web site to see the
streams present positions as well as forecasts into the future (up to 5 days
or so) try this web site...I think its an important part of weather
planning.
http://squall.sfsu.edu/crws/jetstream.html#forecast
John
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Austin" <austin(at)uniserve.com> |
Subject: | Brake fluid leak |
Listers,
I have a small brake fluid leak from the bottom 90 degree fitting
on the side of my right rudder pedal.
This is the blue fitting going into the cylinder..low pressure.
Since turning this tighter will either strip the threads or have the tubing running
off at an unacceptable angle, I was wondering if teflon tape on the thread
will fix the problem, or will the fluid eventually eat the tape ?
What fix would you do ?
Regards,
Austin RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Russell Lamb" <lamb_russell(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Bakersfield EAA BBQ |
Laird,
It is just like the old days no cars, no motorcycles and no RC planes. It will
be just fly in and BBQ.
Russell
Tim,
Are you doing this in conjunction with the car show and RC models like you did
awhile back or is it like the old days, just a fly-in?
Laird
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com> |
Subject: | Brake fluid leak |
Tefflon tape is fine for brake fluid, but you need to be carefull and put it
on the fitting starting at about the second thread. You don't want to get
it at the end of the threads where some of it can come off and block small
orifices in the system.
A better solution is to use the liquid pipe sealant. You can get it at any
hardware store. With the liquid you can leave the fiting slightly loose and
at the correct position and it will harden some.
All of your pipe thread fittings should have a sealant applied.
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Austin
Subject: RV-List: Brake fluid leak
Listers,
I have a small brake fluid leak from the bottom 90 degree
fitting on the side of my right rudder pedal.
This is the blue fitting going into the cylinder..low pressure.
Since turning this tighter will either strip the threads or have the tubing
running off at an unacceptable angle, I was wondering if teflon tape on the
thread will fix the problem, or will the fluid eventually eat the tape ?
What fix would you do ?
Regards,
Austin RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard V. Reynolds" <rvreynolds(at)macs.net> |
Subject: | cowl mysterious pustules |
After about 6 hours of test flights, my upper cowl has developed three
mysterious pustules or blisters.
My RV-6A cowl is about 5 years old and is of the "new" epoxy honeycomb
construction.
The inside was finished with a very thin coat of WEST epoxy and a high
temperature white urethane enamel.
The outside was finished with a urethane enamel.
The cowl was finished last November in Norfolk, VA, and it has been
stored in the hangar.
The three blisters are are about 1 x 3, 1 x 2, and 1 x 2 , all about
1/8 high. There are corresponding blisters on the inside. The first two
are located at the rear baffling line and the third one is located
between cylinders 1-3 .
It appears that the epoxy glass coating has lifted of the honeycomb but
I have not pressed so hard as to pop them. The surface of the blister is
"firm", not real soft and squeshy.
Any thoughts???
Richard Reynolds, Norfolk, VA, RV-6A, N841RV, Flying, 7.8 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Governor Problem - MT Governor |
Thanks, Mike. I did something similar. I replaced it with a stainless #8
screw. I drilled out the 4mm threads with a #19 drill and secured the screw
with an AN363 metal stop nut. It's working well, better than the original
setup I think.
Pat
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Governor Problem - MT Governor
>
> Pat,
>
> You may want to replace it with a metric stainless steel socket head
(Allen)
> screw. They are available from our friendly Lowe's or Ace hardware. Then
> drill the head for .022 safety wire. I have found over time that this
> set-up works quite well.
>
> Mike Robertson
>
>
> >From: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To:
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Governor Problem - MT Governor
> >Date: Sat, 29 May 2004 19:01:39 -0400
> >
> >
> >Jordan, thanks for the reply. You know, on further inspection of some
> >photographs that I have of the governor installation, it looks like the
> >tabs
> >are bent over. So now I'm wondering whether the arm just slipped off the
> >shaft and then the bolt backed out. Not sure, but now I'm thinking about
> >drilling the hole out for an AN3 bolt and using a castle nut on the other
> >side. I am not a big fan of lock washers in an installation like this
> >anyway. Also, this way I won't have to wait a week for a metric bolt to
> >get
> >here in the mail. I am still debating whether I want to do this or not
or
> >maybe even use a #8 screw with a metal stop nut. As you know, the arm is
> >not very wide and an AN3 bolt might be too big. And obviously I would
> >probably void the warranty if I go this route. Anyone have any thoughts
on
> >this?
> >
> >Pat
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Jordan Grant" <gra9933(at)bellsouth.net>
> >To:
> >Subject: RE: RV-List: Governor Problem - MT Governor
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Pat,
> > > I recently installed my MT Governor. Like you said, it came
with
> > > instructions to set the arm to the proper clock position you want,
then
> >to
> > > bend over the washer yourself. I think this is something that is
easily
> > > forgotten - especially if you don't need to reset the arm. I'm going
to
> > > write myself a note to remember to do that before I fly.
> > >
> > > Jordan Grant
> > > RV-6 - Working on the fuel System
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Pat Hatch
> > > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > > Subject: RV-List: Governor Problem - MT Governor
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > With about 19 hours on the -7, I had a problem this morning. On the
> >runup
> >I
> > > noticed that there was no prop RPM drop off and it felt like there was
> >no
> > > resistance on the other end of the control cable. I went back to the
> >hangar
> > > and un-cowled and found the control arm and rod end resting on the
shelf
> >of
> > > the firewall recess. The small metric bolt that held the control arm
in
> > > place had backed out and the arm had worked itself off the splined
> >shaft.
> > > To be honest, I am not sure that I checked to make sure the lock
washer
> >was
> > > in place and properly installed. My assumption now is that the
governor
> > > probably came without the tabs on the lock washer bent--perhaps
> >anticipating
> > > having to re-clock the arm. But I'm not sure. Anyway, can anyone
shine
> >any
> > > light on this, and does anyone have any suggestions on where one might
> >find
> > > one of these metric bolts? The bolt appears to be about the size of a
> >#8
> > > screw.
> > >
> > > More importantly it might be a good idea to check your governor
control
> >arm
> > > if you have the MT governor. The lock washer has a tab that bends
over
> >the
> > > arm and another that bends in the opposite direction to capture the
> >bolt.
> > >
> > > Pat Hatch
> > > RV-4
> > > RV-6
> > > RV-7 All Flying
> > > Vero Beach, FL
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Digiflight II VS Autopilot |
I felt compelled to comment on this incredible autopilot after about 23 hours of
test flying the -7. I have observed it holding a track, follow a GPS flight
plan using GPSS steering, hold a rate of climb or descent, and hold an altitude.
This autopilot is rock solid, smooth as silk, and I have not been able to
upset it even flying in heavy turbulence. If you set a 500 fpm climb, it maintains
500 fpm precisely, etc. It has a different feel than an analog autopilot,
no porpoising, instead the stepper motors give you a series of bumps that
are very positive and precise. We'll see how well it holds up, but I suspect
this company will provide good support. I expect they will have more good things
coming.
Pat
(No connection of any kind to TRUTRAK)
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Brake fluid leak |
Be sure the fittings are tight enough. I had 2 small leaks on my RV-4
braking system at first. I found out I could turn the fittings one more turn around
and they both sealed. They seemed tight, but apparently not tight enough.
No leaks for over 150 hours of flying. Maybe you have a similar situation.
-Mike Kraus
N223RV RV-4 Flying
N213RV RV-10 Empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
Subject: | Re: Governor Problem - MT Governor |
WILL YOU FUCK OFF EMAILING ME
Thanks, Mike. I did something similar. I replaced it with a stainless #8
screw. I drilled out the 4mm threads with a #19 drill and secured the screw
with an AN363 metal stop nut. It's working well, better than the original
setup I think.
Pat
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Robertson"
Subject: Re: RV-List: Governor Problem - MT Governor
>
> Pat,
>
> You may want to replace it with a metric stainless steel socket head
(Allen)
> screw. They are available from our friendly Lowe's or Ace hardware. Then
> drill the head for .022 safety wire. I have found over time that this
> set-up works quite well.
>
> Mike Robertson
>
>
> >From: "Pat Hatch"
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To:
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Governor Problem - MT Governor
> >Date: Sat, 29 May 2004 19:01:39 -0400
> >
> >
> >Jordan, thanks for the reply. You know, on further inspection of some
> >photographs that I have of the governor installation, it looks like the
> >tabs
> >are bent over. So now I'm wondering whether the arm just slipped off the
> >shaft and then the bolt backed out. Not sure, but now I'm thinking about
> >drilling the hole out for an AN3 bolt and using a castle nut on the other
> >side. I am not a big fan of lock washers in an installation like this
> >anyway. Also, this way I won't have to wait a week for a metric bolt to
> >get
> >here in the mail. I am still debating whether I want to do this or not
or
> >maybe even use a #8 screw with a metal stop nut. As you know, the arm is
> >not very wide and an AN3 bolt might be too big. And obviously I would
> >probably void the warranty if I go this route. Anyone have any thoughts
on
> >this?
> >
> >Pat
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Jordan Grant"
> >To:
> >Subject: RE: RV-List: Governor Problem - MT Governor
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Pat,
> > > I recently installed my MT Governor. Like you said, it came
with
> > > instructions to set the arm to the proper clock position you want,
then
> >to
> > > bend over the washer yourself. I think this is something that is
easily
> > > forgotten - especially if you don't need to reset the arm. I'm going
to
> > > write myself a note to remember to do that before I fly.
> > >
> > > Jordan Grant
> > > RV-6 - Working on the fuel System
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Pat Hatch
> > > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > > Subject: RV-List: Governor Problem - MT Governor
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > With about 19 hours on the -7, I had a problem this morning. On the
> >runup
> >I
> > > noticed that there was no prop RPM drop off and it felt like there was
> >no
> > > resistance on the other end of the control cable. I went back to the
> >hangar
> > > and un-cowled and found the control arm and rod end resting on the
shelf
> >of
> > > the firewall recess. The small metric bolt that held the control arm
in
> > > place had backed out and the arm had worked itself off the splined
> >shaft.
> > > To be honest, I am not sure that I checked to make sure the lock
washer
> >was
> > > in place and properly installed. My assumption now is that the
governor
> > > probably came without the tabs on the lock washer bent--perhaps
> >anticipating
> > > having to re-clock the arm. But I'm not sure. Anyway, can anyone
shine
> >any
> > > light on this, and does anyone have any suggestions on where one might
> >find
> > > one of these metric bolts? The bolt appears to be about the size of a
> >#8
> > > screw.
> > >
> > > More importantly it might be a good idea to check your governor
control
> >arm
> > > if you have the MT governor. The lock washer has a tab that bends
over
> >the
> > > arm and another that bends in the opposite direction to capture the
> >bolt.
> > >
> > > Pat Hatch
> > > RV-4
> > > RV-6
> > > RV-7 All Flying
> > > Vero Beach, FL
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Subject: | Re: Brake fluid leak |
You would be better served by removing the fitting and use a Teflon filled
Teflon tape is not a very good idea. It works well for the 1st application
but the 2nd application can and does push little pieces of the tape that
will NOT dissolve but can plug small openings. A piece behind one of the
o-rings will cause leaks and brake malfunctions.
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Austin" <austin(at)uniserve.com>
Subject: RV-List: Brake fluid leak
>
> Listers,
> I have a small brake fluid leak from the bottom 90 degree
fitting on the side of my right rudder pedal.
> This is the blue fitting going into the cylinder..low pressure.
> Since turning this tighter will either strip the threads or have the
tubing running off at an unacceptable angle, I was wondering if teflon tape
on the thread will fix the problem, or will the fluid eventually eat the
tape ?
> What fix would you do ?
> Regards,
> Austin RV6A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <dwhite17(at)columbus.rr.com> |
Subject: | RayAllen Stick Grips for Sale |
I have a two Ray Allen Stick Grips for sale. 1 G101 and 1 G205. Both are wired
and ready to install into your stick. Sell both for $90.00
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
Subject: | Re: Brake fluid leak |
Austin,
I had a similar situation, a leaky brass fitting on my brake cylinder.
In my limited experience, I found that using Loctite 565 (white teflon pipe
thread sealant paste) works great on pipe threads in the brake system, and I
also use it on nylon pipe threads in the pitot/static system (as recommended
by a pro when I had my IFR pitot/static check done).
http://www.loctite.com/int_henkel/loctite_us/?layout=6&productline=565
On pipe threads in the fuel system, I always use EZ-Turn (fuelube).
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/nsearch.php?s=ez+turn
On pipe threads in the oil system, I use Permatex Form-a-Gasket #2
(http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/permatexprod.php) in some
spots, teflon tape in others (i.e. oil cooler fittings, as recommended by
Pacific Oil Coolers).
When I was building my -7 I was dumbfounded at the lack of a definitive
reference on how to lube pipe threads properly. I read too many conflicting
recommendations. Anyway, the info above is what I've settled on over time,
gospel to me now.
Hope this helps,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Austin" <austin(at)uniserve.com>
Subject: RV-List: Brake fluid leak
>
> Listers,
> I have a small brake fluid leak from the bottom 90 degree
fitting on the side of my right rudder pedal.
> This is the blue fitting going into the cylinder..low pressure.
> Since turning this tighter will either strip the threads or have the
tubing running off at an unacceptable angle, I was wondering if teflon tape
on the thread will fix the problem, or will the fluid eventually eat the
tape ?
> What fix would you do ?
> Regards,
> Austin RV6A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Anglin" <jlanglin44(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Diode on starter relay (solenoid) |
I have my HR II all wired and my neighbor showed me a wiring diagram of a
starter solenoid with a diode between the S terminal and ground. I have
owned 3 planes that didn't have this. What is the thinking behind this? I
also have Van's RV-8 wiring schematic that comes with the wiring kit and it
doesn't call out a diode. However, the diagram I saw with the diode was
from Van's.
?????????
Jim
HR-II #153 flying soon............
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Diode on starter relay (solenoid) |
In a message dated 5/30/2004 10:59:52 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
jlanglin44(at)earthlink.net writes:
I have my HR II all wired and my neighbor showed me a wiring diagram of a
starter solenoid with a diode between the S terminal and ground. I have
owned 3 planes that didn't have this. What is the thinking behind this? I
also have Van's RV-8 wiring schematic that comes with the wiring kit and it
doesn't call out a diode. However, the diagram I saw with the diode was
from Van's.
--------------------------------------------------------
It's called a catch diode and helps to safely dissipate the relay primary
electromagnetic field and reduce switch contact arcing and pitting when you
release the key switch from the starter position.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 701 hrs; last trip, Sedona)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Subject: | Diode on starter relay (solenoid) |
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1086003353-510-210&bro
wse=electrical&product=diodes
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim Anglin [mailto:jlanglin44(at)earthlink.net]
> Sent: Monday, May 31, 2004 1:51 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Diode on starter relay (solenoid)
>
>
>
> I have my HR II all wired and my neighbor showed me a wiring
> diagram of a starter solenoid with a diode between the S
> terminal and ground. I have owned 3 planes that didn't have
> this. What is the thinking behind this? I also have Van's
> RV-8 wiring schematic that comes with the wiring kit and it
> doesn't call out a diode. However, the diagram I saw with
> the diode was from Van's.
>
> ?????????
>
> Jim
> HR-II #153 flying soon............
>
>
> ===========
> Matronics Forums.
> ===========
> ===========
> ===========
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Slobovia Outernational Airport BBQ |
Five days to BBQ DAY. Please plan to visit with us, eat some BBQ & talk
airplanes.
Location: Slobovia Outernational Airport (MS71) 10 mi north of Jackson
MS on the Memphis sectional
Approx. 4000' usable with decent approaches.
Email me direct for a map if you are driving. (Don't trust the online
mapping services for this one.)
You are welcome to come for the day, or stay the weekend. Just throw a
bedroll in the plane/car & we'll find you a place to sleep that's out of
the heat. If you plan to overnight, please call us at 601-879-9596 or
drop us an email at ceengland(at)bellsouth.net so we can get breakfast
stuff lined up.
If you've never done any a/c metal work, you can come & play with drills
& rivet guns. Alternative engine discussions will probably revolve
around the Mazda rotary. (Sorry 'bout that. :-) )
No formal seminars, but lots of knowledge is in the air when we have
these events.
Come on down!
Charlie
Slobovia Outernational Airport
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Fred Stucklen" <wstucklen1(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: cowl mysterious pustules |
Richard,
Are you sure it's not the paint on the cowl that is blistering? I had
one small bubble on my RV-6A cowl after running the engine the first
time. It turned out to be a small blister in the paint, probably due to
some trapped air in the fiberglass. I found that pricking it with a
needle and letting it breath solved the problem..
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV
From: "Richard V. Reynolds" <rvreynolds(at)macs.net>
Subject: cowl mysterious pustules
After about 6 hours of test flights, my upper cowl has developed
three
mysterious pustules or blisters.
My RV-6A cowl is about 5 years old and is of the "new" epoxy
honeycomb
construction.
The inside was finished with a very thin coat of WEST epoxy and a
high
temperature white urethane enamel.
The outside was finished with a urethane enamel.
The cowl was finished last November in Norfolk, VA, and it has
been
stored in the hangar.
The three blisters are are about 1 x 3, 1 x 2, and 1 x 2 , all
about
1/8 high. There are corresponding blisters on the inside. The
first two
are located at the rear baffling line and the third one is located
between cylinders 1-3 .
It appears that the epoxy glass coating has lifted of the
honeycomb but
I have not pressed so hard as to pop them. The surface of the
blister is
"firm", not real soft and squeshy.
Any thoughts???
Richard Reynolds, Norfolk, VA, RV-6A, N841RV, Flying, 7.8 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | BBreckenridge(at)att.net |
Subject: | Home Wing Fly-In |
Anyone planning on showing up?
http://www.edt.com/homewing/nwflyin.html
Bruce Breckenridge
RV-10 NOT flying, still crated
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Scott Diffenbaugh" <diff(at)foothill.net> |
Subject: | RE: RV-List Digest: 19 Msgs - 05/30/04 |
From: JhnstnIII(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: drawing 25 and firewall penetrations and 0-360
Listers--Have checked the archives and can't find this one. Does anyone
know
if the firewall penetration locations on drawing 25 (RV-6) work for the
0-360
A1A? Thanks. --LeRoy Johnston, Columbus, OH, RV-6, firewall forward.
Leroy- Personally, I would not drill any penetrations or mount anything on
the inside or outside of the firewall (including stiffners, doublers, etc)
until I had my engine and all accessories mounted ( including the electrical
system). Fortunately we had not drilled too many holes and therefore were
able to align things much better than the drawings showed.
Scott Diffenbaugh
diff(at)foothill.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JhnstnIII(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: RE: RV-List Digest: 19 Msgs - 05/30/04 |
Thanks Scott.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Stuart B McCurdy <sturdy(at)att.net> |
Subject: | P-51C Off Field Landing |
Anyone know anything about this? Was it Doug Rozendaal in Red Tail?
How is he? Please respond directly to my email rather than to the List..
From AvFlash(31 May 04)....."A Commemorative Air Force P-51C made an
emergency off-field landing during an air show near Red Wing, Minn., on
Saturday. The pilot was airlifted to hospital but his condition wasn't
known at our deadline, nor was the fate of the aircraft, one of just
four flying..."
Stu McCurdy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | Re: P-51C Off Field Landing |
Stuart B McCurdy wrote:
>
> Anyone know anything about this? Was it Doug Rozendaal in Red Tail?
> How is he? Please respond directly to my email rather than to the List..
>
> From AvFlash(31 May 04)....."A Commemorative Air Force P-51C made an
> emergency off-field landing during an air show near Red Wing, Minn., on
> Saturday. The pilot was airlifted to hospital but his condition wasn't
> known at our deadline, nor was the fate of the aircraft, one of just
> four flying..."
>
> Stu McCurdy
It was not Doug. The pilot died yesterday.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Henry Hochberg <aeroncadoc(at)comcast.net> |
BODY": HTML.title.contains.no.text(at)matronics.com
Subject: | Re: P-51C Off Field Landing 0.1 HTML_TITLE_EMPTY |
Pilot's name was Don Hinz, and he did not survive the crash.
Henry H.
Stuart B McCurdy wrote:
>
>Anyone know anything about this? Was it Doug Rozendaal in Red Tail?
>How is he? Please respond directly to my email rather than to the List..
>
> From AvFlash(31 May 04)....."A Commemorative Air Force P-51C made an
>emergency off-field landing during an air show near Red Wing, Minn., on
>Saturday. The pilot was airlifted to hospital but his condition wasn't
>known at our deadline, nor was the fate of the aircraft, one of just
>four flying..."
>
>Stu McCurdy
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
Subject: | Re: Bakersfield EAA BBQ |
Glad to hear it. Quite a few of the SoCal bunch should show up then.
Laird
On May 30, 2004, at 11:01 AM, Russell Lamb wrote:
>
>
> Laird,
>
> It is just like the old days no cars, no motorcycles and no RC planes.
> It will be just fly in and BBQ.
>
> Russell
>
> Tim,
>
> Are you doing this in conjunction with the car show and RC models
> like you did awhile back or is it like the old days, just a fly-in?
>
> Laird
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
Subject: | Re: P-51C Off Field Landing |
It was not me. I was flying the B-25 landing and Don Hinz was flying the
Redtail. He said he was losing the engine, Larry Lumpkin was on the ground
in the Gunfighter and told Don to turn on the boost pump, I said get the
prop back, Don said, that is all
done. Larry said, Fly it to the ground Don, Fly it to the ground."
That is exactly what he did.
The airplane landed in a wings level low speed low angle condition, as
survivable as it could be. He hit one tree which took off one wing, and then
another which spun him around and the airplane came to rest on it right side
with both wings severed.
The Crash crews were there with in 4 minutes. Larry took off imeadiately to
locate the wreckage incase the crash crews could not find it, and by the
time he was overhead they were there.
Gerry Beck came down this morning and went with the FAA to the wreckage.
Early indications are that the V drive which powers the cam failed. Both
cams would quit turning and there was nothing that Don could have done but
fly it to the ground. He did that.
Your thoughts and prayer for his family are appreciated. Don would never
forgive us if we let this setback stop the Redtail project which he gave the
last 10 years, and ultimately his life for. With a million bucks and 18
months we could be flying again. Don would want that. Wish us luck. You can
learn more at www.redtail.org
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
Subject: | Re: bearing material |
On May 28, 2004, at 11:42 PM, Wheeler North wrote:
>
> Laird,
>
> big bummer,
That's for sure.....
>
> Obviously don't run the engine at all, but its really unusual to see
> bearing
> wear this early in the life of a proven engine.
RV's already grounded. Engine is out
>
> Was there a lot of metal?
2 or 3 flecks of bearing material per pleat in the filter
>
> Lycoming has a sb on the 100% replacement items during OH, but its a
> long
> list. The downside is things like cams and lifter bodies tend to go
> after
> TBO so now you are in the quandry of dealing with that in another 1000
> hours
> again, given that they pass muster now.
>
> Its true that there are service limits and new limits, but the service
> limits aren't that great, and on many parts you will not reach TBO by
> using
> them.
>
> I'm not convinced you yet know what caused the premature failure or
> where it
> is specifically.
May never know
>
> One option is to pull the cylinders and see if its a con bearing. If
> so, and
> the metal load was very low, then your bottom end mains may be ok. In
> this
> case the OH is just a disassembly, clean, replace all bearings and
> seals and
> reassemble.
>
> The other thing that I don't yet know is was there any other
> contaminants
> such as silicon or steel. Bearings can be wiped by failing things like
> an
> oil pump, or a bad air filter letting a lot of dirt in. This latter
> will
> usually show up as poor compresion first though.
>
> Re shops, Lycon does seem to be the best in our sorta local area, to
> which
> I've never heard of a complaint. This is definately an area where you
> get
> what you pay for, but paying big bucks doesn't ensure that. Take the
> time to
> have a long conversation with them. If they know their stuff they will
> grant
> you that luxury. Most good pros know that this is a part of running a
> good
> business and maintaining a strong reputation.
>
> I would also add that you are more than competent to tear this down
> your
> self and explore it some more, and in fact, possibly repair it your
> self.
> I've built a lot of aircraft and automotive engines, and like anything
> else,
> taking your time, getting good info, borrowing the right tools when
> you need
> them, etc will produce a good job and you will gain from the
> experience.
>
> And worse case, if you tear it down and all looks nasty, box it up and
> mail
> it off. But at least you will be confident at that point that it really
> needed a full OH.
Pop and thought about it but decided to just let Lycon do the work.
It'll get delivered to them tomorrow.
>
>
> I'd be happy to pop up and look at it once you got it apart, or
> anytime for
> that matter.
>
> W
Thanks for the offer.
Laird
>
>
> From: Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Questions For An Overhaul Shop
>
>
> Hi all,
>
> So much for having TOO much fun in the Bahamas last month.
>
> After I got home from the trip, I changed the oil and found metal in
> the oil filter. 950 TTSN, in 3 years. Lycoming confirmed it was
> bearing material. %$#@!!! There were no symptoms during the last
> flights, such as low oil pressure (75psi warm) or vibration. I had just
> finished flying 45 hrs in the previous 2 weeks, with nothing in the
> filter on the last oil change.
>
> At this point I'm not interested in doing the overhaul myself, even
> assisted, so I'm looking for a shop to do an overhaul to get back
> flying.
>
> Right now I've got some shops in my mind (including Aero Sport) but I'm
> not quite sure how to approach them.
>
> How do I approach these companies to compare prices to get an "apples
> to apples comparison. I'm sure they'd want to look at the engine
> before making any quote. I can't send them all the engine. I want to
> make sure I look around to get a warm fuzzy when I end up sending it
> someone and parting with the next 5 years of my expendable income.
>
> Would asking them for a quote on their labor costs for a "standard"
> (whatever that is) overhaul would be the right way to do it?. Or a
> quote on an overhaul with all parts assumed good, like crankcase,
> crank, cam, pistons and cylinders. (I know that there will be some
> components that'll need replacing, but with a 1000hr motor since new,
> there should be a lot of good parts, except what has been damaged from
> the bearing giving up.)
>
> Any other ideas?
>
> Since this is the first experience with this kind of experience, any
> suggestions would be welcomed.
>
> TIA,
> Laird RV-6
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cory Emberson" <bootless(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: P-51C Off Field Landing |
Hello Doug,
Thank you for posting this, and my thoughts and prayers go up for Don and
his family. I read about this on another forum, and the unanimous opinion
was that he was indeed a hero for avoiding the populated area.
I will spread the word for the Redtail project.
best, Cory
>
> It was not me. I was flying the B-25 landing and Don Hinz was flying the
> Redtail. He said he was losing the engine, Larry Lumpkin was on the ground
> in the Gunfighter and told Don to turn on the boost pump, I said get the
> prop back, Don said, that is all
> done. Larry said, Fly it to the ground Don, Fly it to the ground."
>
> That is exactly what he did.
>
> The airplane landed in a wings level low speed low angle condition, as
> survivable as it could be. He hit one tree which took off one wing, and
then
> another which spun him around and the airplane came to rest on it right
side
> with both wings severed.
>
> The Crash crews were there with in 4 minutes. Larry took off imeadiately
to
> locate the wreckage incase the crash crews could not find it, and by the
> time he was overhead they were there.
>
> Gerry Beck came down this morning and went with the FAA to the wreckage.
> Early indications are that the V drive which powers the cam failed. Both
> cams would quit turning and there was nothing that Don could have done but
> fly it to the ground. He did that.
>
> Your thoughts and prayer for his family are appreciated. Don would never
> forgive us if we let this setback stop the Redtail project which he gave
the
> last 10 years, and ultimately his life for. With a million bucks and 18
> months we could be flying again. Don would want that. Wish us luck. You
can
> learn more at www.redtail.org
>
>
> Tailwinds,
> Doug Rozendaal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Anglin" <jlanglin44(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Home Wing Fly-In |
I'll be there but then I only live 20 min away.............
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: <BBreckenridge(at)att.net>
Subject: RV-List: Home Wing Fly-In
>
> Anyone planning on showing up?
>
> http://www.edt.com/homewing/nwflyin.html
>
> Bruce Breckenridge
> RV-10 NOT flying, still crated
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Finn Lassen <finn.lassen(at)verizon.net> |
Subject: | Facet fuel pump failure |
As usual before staring the engine, I turned on both my 40105 facet fuel
pumps.
However, for the first time in 460+ hours, one of them did not start.
I checked voltage across red/black wires to the pump and had 12.7 volts.
Ohm-ing across those two wires (power disconnected) I got some 27K ohms.
Seems awfully high.
Tapped the pump with a screwdriver and reconnected power and it started up.
A couple of times in flight I have noticed momentary pressure drops.
(I have a fuel filter before the pumps. No engine driven pump. Filter
replaced in the last 25 hours.)
Is it possible to have an intermittent failure mode in these pumps?
Archive search only mentions complete failure (transistor blown).
Appeared form one posting that one could take them apart and put back
together again - or should I simple order a new pump?
Finn
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | [ Matt Dralle ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Matt Dralle
Subject: WWII Bombers at Livermore California - May 31 2004
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/dralle@matronics.com.05.31.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
Subject: | Re: P-51C Off Field Landing |
Thanks for you thoughts,
what forum did you read about it?
Doug
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cory Emberson" <bootless(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: P-51C Off Field Landing
>
> Hello Doug,
>
> Thank you for posting this, and my thoughts and prayers go up for Don and
> his family. I read about this on another forum, and the unanimous opinion
> was that he was indeed a hero for avoiding the populated area.
>
> I will spread the word for the Redtail project.
>
> best, Cory
>
> >
> > It was not me. I was flying the B-25 landing and Don Hinz was flying
the
> > Redtail. He said he was losing the engine, Larry Lumpkin was on the
ground
> > in the Gunfighter and told Don to turn on the boost pump, I said get the
> > prop back, Don said, that is all
> > done. Larry said, Fly it to the ground Don, Fly it to the ground."
> >
> > That is exactly what he did.
> >
> > The airplane landed in a wings level low speed low angle condition, as
> > survivable as it could be. He hit one tree which took off one wing, and
> then
> > another which spun him around and the airplane came to rest on it right
> side
> > with both wings severed.
> >
> > The Crash crews were there with in 4 minutes. Larry took off imeadiately
> to
> > locate the wreckage incase the crash crews could not find it, and by the
> > time he was overhead they were there.
> >
> > Gerry Beck came down this morning and went with the FAA to the wreckage.
> > Early indications are that the V drive which powers the cam failed. Both
> > cams would quit turning and there was nothing that Don could have done
but
> > fly it to the ground. He did that.
> >
> > Your thoughts and prayer for his family are appreciated. Don would never
> > forgive us if we let this setback stop the Redtail project which he gave
> the
> > last 10 years, and ultimately his life for. With a million bucks and 18
> > months we could be flying again. Don would want that. Wish us luck. You
> can
> > learn more at www.redtail.org
> >
> >
> > Tailwinds,
> > Doug Rozendaal
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | WILLMINCEY(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: cowl mysterious pustules |
Richard,
Sorry to hear about your cowl bumps. I have the same problem. It started
after some glass rework. The only way to stop the swelling was prick/drill a
small hole through one side to relieve the pressure. It would be better if you
could go into the cavity from the inside because it will continue to create a
liquid drainage. This is what happens when the proper amount of hardener is
not used in the layup. I made the mistake of a small hole on the outside.
Its been draining/streaking the cowl every flight now for four years, believe it
or not. You would thing that it would eventually disappear, but heat from
the exhaust pipes causes flow during each flight. Not being a glassworker, I
live with the wipedown after each flight.
If you find an easy/quick fix I would like to know also. Thanks
Will Mincey
RV3 81TD
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Jurotich <mjurotich(at)hst.nasa.gov> |
Subject: | Electric Fuel Pump |
My electric fuel pump "Facet?" is on the engine side of the firewall. Been
there for 325 hours. One on my friends said the firewall side is too hot
and may cause the pump to not work when you need it. What do you fuel
system wizards say? O360 with mechanical pump on engine.
Thanks
Matthew M. Jurotich
NASA/Goddard Space Flight Center
Swales contractor to the
JWST ISIM Systems Engineer
m/c : 443
e-mail mail to:
phone : 301-286-5919
fax : 301-286-7021
JWST URL: <http://ngst1.gsfc.nasa.gov
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Electric Fuel Pump |
I'd say a 325-hour installation makes you something of an "expert".
Any problems so far?
If not, why mess with success?
- Mike
Matt Jurotich wrote:
My electric fuel pump "Facet?" is on the engine side of the firewall. Been
there for 325 hours. One on my friends said the firewall side is too hot
and may cause the pump to not work when you need it. What do you fuel
system wizards say? O360 with mechanical pump on engine.
Michael E. Thompson (Grobdriver(at)yahoo.com)
Austin, TX, USA
RV-6 N140RV, FLYING!
Ex-AX1 Sub Hunter, P-3 (B/B-TACMOD/C) Orion Aircrew,
PP-G,ASEL, Motorglider Driver and Unlimited Air Race Nut!
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tim Barnes" <meangreenrv4(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Bakersfield EAA BBQ |
Just like the old days Laird....Fly In, 1:00 pm BBQ $10.00, Hangar talk.
Hope to see you there.
>From: Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Bakersfield EAA BBQ
>Date: Fri, 28 May 2004 15:14:39 -0700
>
>
>Tim,
>
>Are you doing this in conjunction with the car show and RC models like
>you did awhile back or is it like the old days, just a fly-in?
>
>Laird
>
>On May 28, 2004, at 2:10 PM, Tim Barnes wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Chapter 71 BBQ will be held June 5, @ L45 (Bakersfield Muni) There are
> > a few
> > things that we will try to approve on, this year we will serve at
> > 1:00pm,
> > the cost is only $ 10.00. Lots of planes and hangar talk. So if you
> > will be
> > going to Merced this year fly over to L45 and get a Tri-Tip lunch,
> > visit
> > with old friends or make some new ones. If you still have some
> > questions you
> > can call (661) 836-1028
> >
> > Get 200+ ad-free, high-fidelity stations and LIVE Major League Baseball
> > Gameday Audio!
> > http://radio.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200491ave/direct/01/
> >
> >
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Fred Kunkel" <rvator(at)socal.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: Bakersfield EAA BBQ |
Hello again Tim,
Better yet, give me a call at 888-777-1650.
Thanks!
Fred
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Barnes" <meangreenrv4(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Bakersfield EAA BBQ
>
> Just like the old days Laird....Fly In, 1:00 pm BBQ $10.00, Hangar talk.
> Hope to see you there.
>
>
> >From: Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Bakersfield EAA BBQ
> >Date: Fri, 28 May 2004 15:14:39 -0700
> >
> >
> >Tim,
> >
> >Are you doing this in conjunction with the car show and RC models like
> >you did awhile back or is it like the old days, just a fly-in?
> >
> >Laird
> >
> >On May 28, 2004, at 2:10 PM, Tim Barnes wrote:
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > Chapter 71 BBQ will be held June 5, @ L45 (Bakersfield Muni) There are
> > > a few
> > > things that we will try to approve on, this year we will serve at
> > > 1:00pm,
> > > the cost is only $ 10.00. Lots of planes and hangar talk. So if you
> > > will be
> > > going to Merced this year fly over to L45 and get a Tri-Tip lunch,
> > > visit
> > > with old friends or make some new ones. If you still have some
> > > questions you
> > > can call (661) 836-1028
> > >
> > > Get 200+ ad-free, high-fidelity stations and LIVE Major League
Baseball
> > > Gameday Audio!
> > > http://radio.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200491ave/direct/01/
> > >
> > >
> > > _-
> > >
======================================================================
> > > _-
> > >
======================================================================
> > > _-
> > >
======================================================================
> > > _-
> > >
======================================================================
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
I had always assumed that they rejected some of the RVs that
are completed so that they can at least show *some* of the other
kits.
>Did anybody notice that the completions section in the June issue of "Sport
>Aviation" is 100 percent RV instead of the usual 90 percent or so? Thirteen
>planes. I don't know whether to be happy or sad about that. The things are
>so good they are getting way too common. Shoot, there were about 8 of 'em
>parked on the ramp at my small town this weekend.
We've got a grand total of three flying RVs in the whole country,
and less that 10 under construction. Fly yours here and you'll
be real special! :-)
I have to say, I'd really love to be able to drive down to
the airport and look at another RV8 during those times when
I get stuck.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com> |
Subject: | Duel electric fuel pumps |
Hey gang.. I have a 320-D2J that doesn't have a fuel pump (nor a pad for
one) on it that is going in my RV-9A. I've swapped numerous emails with
Mahlon at Mattituck (Thanks!) about exchanging the accesorry case for one
with a pump pad on it in order to drive a mechanical pump.
I'm curious if anyone has experience running duel electric pumps. What are
the pros/cons of this type of setup.
It's going to cost me on the order of $750 to get a mechanical pump
installed on my D2J ($250 accessory case swap/$136 drive pin/$100 idler
gear/$248 fuel pump).
ACS has the electric facet fuel pumps that deliver 4-6psi with the AN
fitting for $35.60. (At that price I could replace often and have
redundancy.)
PROS: Lighweight, inexpensive, saves me $$$.
CONS: Electric, life expectency?
A properly designed electrical system would all but eliminate the problem of
the pump being electric in case of electrical failure.
Thoughts?
Matthew Brandes,
Van's RV-9A (Wings/Fuselage)
EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Frederick Oldenburg <foldenburg(at)earthlink.net> |
I recently acquired a CP-214 Pneumatic squeezer. The squeezer has an adjustable
set holder. Having no prior experience with a pneumatic, I dove in with both
feet on my rudder spar last night. With a hand squeezer I had been setting the
dimple die so that the dies were completely flush with each other (i.e. no space
at all between the dies). This seemed to work well....I'd get a crisp dimple
and little or no deformation around it.
Well, after trying this same setting with the pneumatic I discovered that there
was a "fluting effect" because the pneumatic is so strong it was bending the
metal slightly. My rudder spar was now bowed slightly, like a rib would be before
fluting it....maybe 1/4" or so when you lay it flat on a table.
Well, in my typical gorilla ham-fisted manner I thought I could "gently" flex it
back somewhat. Wrong! I ended up kinking it slightly. Tried to fix it with a
hand seamer until good reason took hold of me....
I ordered a new one from Van this morning.
I will most definitely be practicing a little more with the pneumatic (on scrap)
as I wait for the new spar to arrive....
Fred Oldenburg
RV-7A - Empennage
http://www.rv.oldsack.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | David Nelson <david.nelson(at)pobox.com> |
Subject: | Re: Lesson Learned |
Hi Fred,
From the sound of it, I ran into this same problem when I started building.
However, it was because I wasn't squeezing enough. I usually give an
additional half or one full turn of the set holder to compensate for any flex
in the yoke.
You'll know when you have a good dimple when there's a ring around the outside
of where the dies meet up. I also noticed that the reflection in the aluminum
of something with crisp lines (I used my truck bumber's reflection for example)
was not nearly as distorted as when the dimples were not properly made. Made
for very quick litmus test if I failed to properly set any dimples.
Finally, compare a dimple made with the c-frame (using a good solid foundation
and several good wacks) and your pneumatic. You'll see what I'm talking about.
I've got a picture I can send you as an attachment if you wish to make sure
that we're talking about the same thing.
Regards,
/\/elson
Austin, TX
RV-7A - Wings - Getting ready to build the wing jig/holder
On Tue, 1 Jun 2004, Frederick Oldenburg wrote:
>
> I recently acquired a CP-214 Pneumatic squeezer. The squeezer has an
> adjustable set holder. Having no prior experience with a pneumatic, I dove in
> with both feet on my rudder spar last night. With a hand squeezer I had been
> setting the dimple die so that the dies were completely flush with each other
> (i.e. no space at all between the dies). This seemed to work well....I'd get
> a crisp dimple and little or no deformation around it.
>
> Well, after trying this same setting with the pneumatic I discovered that
> there was a "fluting effect" because the pneumatic is so strong it was
> bending the metal slightly. My rudder spar was now bowed slightly, like a rib
> would be before fluting it....maybe 1/4" or so when you lay it flat on a
> table.
>
> Well, in my typical gorilla ham-fisted manner I thought I could "gently" flex
> it back somewhat. Wrong! I ended up kinking it slightly. Tried to fix it with
> a hand seamer until good reason took hold of me....
>
> I ordered a new one from Van this morning.
>
> I will most definitely be practicing a little more with the pneumatic (on
> scrap) as I wait for the new spar to arrive....
>
>
> Fred Oldenburg
> RV-7A - Empennage
> http://www.rv.oldsack.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
Subject: | >Re; Lesson learned |
The pneumatic squeezer I used had to have the air pressure properly adjusted
to squeeze just right. It was an Alligator type.
The "C" frame adjusts the height of the die.
You're lucky if you only have to replace that much. I ruined the HS skeletin
and two skins on my first one.
Keep working and learning,
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Comp User" <trebla(at)directinter.net> |
Subject: | Re: Duel electric fuel pumps |
I changed from a single Facet fuel pump to a dual setup. They are hooked up
in series. Totally seperate electrical control from the buss. This even
includes the ground. They will free flow so you can run either one. They can
be checked on the ground before flight by switching back and forth between
the two. Switching on both jumps the fuel pressure up and helps the starts
on chilly mornings. The origional install location was engine side of the
firewall. Had terrible vapor lock. My pump gave the warning signs when it
started to fail. Short time, around 5 hrs. Not common. High pressure then
low. The internal valve wore on one side. Would seal when turned just right.
I must confess, I do not have an RV. It is my next project. Flying a Mod. 5
Kitfox with an NSI 140turbo right now.
Albert Smith
MudLake, Idaho
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Duel electric fuel pumps |
In a message dated 6/1/2004 2:04:24 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
matthew(at)n523rv.com writes:
I have a 320-D2J that doesn't have a fuel pump (nor a pad for
one) on it that is going in my RV-9A. I've swapped numerous emails with
Mahlon at Mattituck (Thanks!) about exchanging the accesorry case for one
with a pump pad on it in order to drive a mechanical pump.
I'm curious if anyone has experience running duel electric pumps. What are
the pros/cons of this type of setup.
------------------------------------------------
My buddy, Walter Treadwell runs this setup in his Alley Cat. The Alley Cat
is a highly altered Super Cat and has a Continental O-200 with no mechanical
fuel pumping provisions up front. He has two identical Facet pumps with
check valves plumbed in parallel. One is running all the time and one is the
boost. Works great!
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 702 hrs; last trip, Sedona)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Duel electric fuel pumps |
Hi Matthew,
I'd buy the Best fuel pumps available and run the wiring by Bob Nuckolls.
Personally I'd spend the $$ for the engine fuel pump and still use the Best
electirc pump I could find. For what it's worth on our IO-360 we have a
engine driven fuel pump and our electric boost (which cost about $500 as I
remember).
Good building,
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A (300 hrs)
>From: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Duel electric fuel pumps
>Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2004 16:00:38 -0500
>
>
>Hey gang.. I have a 320-D2J that doesn't have a fuel pump (nor a pad for
>one) on it that is going in my RV-9A. I've swapped numerous emails with
>Mahlon at Mattituck (Thanks!) about exchanging the accesorry case for one
>with a pump pad on it in order to drive a mechanical pump.
>
>I'm curious if anyone has experience running duel electric pumps. What are
>the pros/cons of this type of setup.
>
>It's going to cost me on the order of $750 to get a mechanical pump
>installed on my D2J ($250 accessory case swap/$136 drive pin/$100 idler
>gear/$248 fuel pump).
>
>ACS has the electric facet fuel pumps that deliver 4-6psi with the AN
>fitting for $35.60. (At that price I could replace often and have
>redundancy.)
>
>PROS: Lighweight, inexpensive, saves me $$$.
>CONS: Electric, life expectency?
>
>A properly designed electrical system would all but eliminate the problem
>of
>the pump being electric in case of electrical failure.
>
>Thoughts?
>
>Matthew Brandes,
>Van's RV-9A (Wings/Fuselage)
>EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
>www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/>
>
>
Looking to buy a house? Get informed with the Home Buying Guide from MSN
House & Home. http://coldwellbanker.msn.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | pneumatic squeezers |
From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
SNIP Well, after trying this same setting with the pneumatic I
discovered that there
was a "fluting effect" because the pneumatic is so strong it was bending
the
metal slightly. My rudder spar was now bowed slightly, like a rib would
be before
fluting it....maybe 1/4" or so when you lay it flat on a table. SNIP
In my experience, never use a pneumatic squeezer on hinge material
unless you want a useless, banana shaped part.
And always, always make sure that you have rounded the edges of your
dies with your Scotchbrite wheel to avoid unsightly rings.
Vince
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Imfairings(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Down side of Reporting Spam |
Good Morning,
Apparently one of my email addresses, bob@fairings-etc.com has been
"JoeJobbed". As I understand it I was randomly picked by the spammers to be
"JoeJobbed" as a get even tactic. This means they are sending out emails using
my
@fairings-etc.com. If you get an email from any address other than
bob@fairings-etc.com please be advised it is not from me.
My imfairings(at)aol.com seems not to have been hit.
Bob
Fairings-Etc
623-203-9795
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Duel electric fuel pumps |
I would work but I would make sure that the second fuel pump is running on a
dedicated backup battery.
Mike Robertson
>From: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Duel electric fuel pumps
>Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2004 16:00:38 -0500
>
>
>Hey gang.. I have a 320-D2J that doesn't have a fuel pump (nor a pad for
>one) on it that is going in my RV-9A. I've swapped numerous emails with
>Mahlon at Mattituck (Thanks!) about exchanging the accesorry case for one
>with a pump pad on it in order to drive a mechanical pump.
>
>I'm curious if anyone has experience running duel electric pumps. What are
>the pros/cons of this type of setup.
>
>It's going to cost me on the order of $750 to get a mechanical pump
>installed on my D2J ($250 accessory case swap/$136 drive pin/$100 idler
>gear/$248 fuel pump).
>
>ACS has the electric facet fuel pumps that deliver 4-6psi with the AN
>fitting for $35.60. (At that price I could replace often and have
>redundancy.)
>
>PROS: Lighweight, inexpensive, saves me $$$.
>CONS: Electric, life expectency?
>
>A properly designed electrical system would all but eliminate the problem
>of
>the pump being electric in case of electrical failure.
>
>Thoughts?
>
>Matthew Brandes,
>Van's RV-9A (Wings/Fuselage)
>EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
>www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Brian Alley <n320wt(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Modifying RV6 chin scoop |
Before spending a bunch of money, Try making your
own!!! I've made several small fairings buy using
aluminum screen to form the shape, smear it with 5
minute epoxy after you get the shape close . Do minor
body work with bond and after waxing this form, layup
several layers of glass cloth with resin. Remove the
part from the form and install just like it came from
Vans!!! This is a quick and easy way to make small parts.
====
BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
304-872-7938 shop
304-562-6800 home
How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Down side of Reporting Spam |
From: | "Rabaut, Chuck" <Chuck.Rabaut(at)fresnosheriff.org> |
Bob,
I'm sorry you've been "gotten" too. You've always been great to work with,
very reasonably priced, and honest as the day is long. I wish I dealt with
more people/businesses like you. BTW, the fairings you made for my RV-4 still
look/fit/work great. Take care,
Chuck
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Imfairings(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Down side of Reporting Spam
Good Morning,
Apparently one of my email addresses, bob@fairings-etc.com has been
"JoeJobbed". As I understand it I was randomly picked by the spammers to be
"JoeJobbed" as a get even tactic. This means they are sending out emails using
my
@fairings-etc.com. If you get an email from any address other than
bob@fairings-etc.com please be advised it is not from me.
My imfairings(at)aol.com seems not to have been hit.
Bob
Fairings-Etc
623-203-9795
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dr. Peter Laurence" <dr.laurence(at)mbdi.org> |
Subject: | Re: pneumatic squeezers |
Vince
I used my pneumatic squeezer on my empennage spars with no problem.
The trick is to pay very close attention as the sets engage and make sure
that the squeezer is perpendicular to the surface.
Peter
From: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu>
Subject: RV-List: pneumatic squeezers
>
> SNIP Well, after trying this same setting with the pneumatic I
> discovered that there
> was a "fluting effect" because the pneumatic is so strong it was bending
> the
> metal slightly. My rudder spar was now bowed slightly, like a rib would
> be before
> fluting it....maybe 1/4" or so when you lay it flat on a table. SNIP
>
> In my experience, never use a pneumatic squeezer on hinge material
> unless you want a useless, banana shaped part.
>
> And always, always make sure that you have rounded the edges of your
> dies with your Scotchbrite wheel to avoid unsightly rings.
>
> Vince
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jerry Hansen" <jerry-hansen(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Space date set for Rutan SpaceShipOnce |
Read about the big event here...
http://www.scaled.com/news/news.htm
Jerry Hansen
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jeff Cours <rv-j(at)moriarti.org> |
Subject: | Re: Lesson Learned |
I also ran into a similar problem: I bought a used squeezer on E-bay
with a yoke that someone ground for clearance. It's great for getting
into corners, but the grind is slightly off level, which lets the set
tilt just a touch. It's not a problem when squeezing rivets, but it'll
dent the aluminum when dimpling. Lucky thing for me was that it didn't
come with directions, so I experimented on scrap before using it on
anything expensive.
For now, I'm using the hand squeezer for dimpling and the pneumatic for
squeezing. I'll probably wind up buying a new yoke at some point, but
I'm finding that dimpling doesn't take as much force as, say, using a
Tatco squeezer on an AD4 rivet, the ligher hand squeezer is a lot easer
to maneuver than the pneumatic tool, and, so far at least, I've been
able to generate enough force to get good quality dimples, so hand
dimpling may be the answer for a while.
- Jeff
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Electric Fuel Pump |
From: | <czechsix(at)juno.com> |
Matt,
There are tons of certified spam cans flying with a Facet fuel pump on the engine
side of the firewall....all the Piper Warrior/Archer series that I've worked
on are this way. I don't think they really get that hot...as long as you aren't
having vapor lock problems, I wouldn't worry about it...the electric boost
pump is redundant to the mech pump anyway, so a failure isn't going to be a
big deal.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D with Facet 'beer can' pump in the wing root, along with the gascolator,
where it ain't gonna vapor lock...
-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Jurotich <mjurotich(at)hst.nasa.gov>
Subject: RV-List: Electric Fuel Pump
My electric fuel pump "Facet?" is on the engine side of the firewall. Been
there for 325 hours. One on my friends said the firewall side is too hot
and may cause the pump to not work when you need it. What do you fuel
system wizards say? O360 with mechanical pump on engine.
Thanks
Matthew M. Jurotich
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | mark phipps <skydive80020(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Ellison Throttle Body |
I am installing an Ellison Throttle Body on my 6A and find the standard length
throttle cable does not work due to the 90 degree right orientation. I would like
some info as to what length Throttle cable others have used for the Ellison
and how they routed it through the firewall.
Mark Phipps, N242RP, almost flying.
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Frederick Oldenburg <foldenburg(at)earthlink.net> |
On Superior's XP-360 website, it says the following:
"...each crankshaft is made from VAR steel and dynamically balanced to with-in
one-quarter ounce inch to reduce engine vibration. "
Is this the same thing as a counter-balanced crank? I would assume not. What is
the difference?
Thanks,
Fred
Fred Oldenburg
RV-7A - Empennage
http://www.rv.oldsack.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: XP-360 Question |
The F6 crankshaft is counterweighted to eliminate the sixth and eighth order harmonic
vibrations in order to prevent vibration damage to three blade props.
This was recommended by MT when I ordered one of their hyd props.
Superior did not make a F6 type crankshaft at the time I ordered my engine from
Bart LaLonde - he built my XP360 with a stock Lycoming F6 crank.
This is the story that I got and I'm sticking to it!
Ralph Capen
N822AR - getting ready to bolt the prop to the engine to the mount to the firewall.......
SNIP
On Superior's XP-360 website, it says the following:
"...each crankshaft is made from VAR steel and dynamically balanced to with-in
one-quarter ounce inch to reduce engine vibration. "
Is this the same thing as a counter-balanced crank? I would assume not. What is
the difference?
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Ellison Throttle Body |
How short is it? Spruce sells extensions.......up to 6 inches I think.
>
>I am installing an Ellison Throttle Body on my 6A and find the standard
>length throttle cable does not work due to the 90 degree right
>orientation. I would like some info as to what length Throttle cable
>others have used for the Ellison and how they routed it through the firewall.
>
>Mark Phipps, N242RP, almost flying.
>
>
>---------------------------------
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Subject: | pneumatic squeezers |
I've always used the 'unsightly' rings to guage the quality of the dimple.
Missing or half a ring, I did something wrong. Just another opinion....
-
Larry Bowen, RV-8 in progress
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Frazier, Vincent A [mailto:VFrazier(at)usi.edu]
> Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 2004 9:21 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: pneumatic squeezers
>
>
>
> SNIP Well, after trying this same setting with the pneumatic
> I discovered that there was a "fluting effect" because the
> pneumatic is so strong it was bending the metal slightly. My
> rudder spar was now bowed slightly, like a rib would be
> before fluting it....maybe 1/4" or so when you lay it flat on
> a table. SNIP
>
> In my experience, never use a pneumatic squeezer on hinge
> material unless you want a useless, banana shaped part.
>
> And always, always make sure that you have rounded the edges
> of your dies with your Scotchbrite wheel to avoid unsightly rings.
>
> Vince
>
>
> ===========
> Matronics Forums.
> ===========
> ===========
> ===========
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Liz Taylor <n7011n(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | For Sale: Avery RV Tools with Pneumatic Squeezer |
After deciding not to continue building my RV7 past
the empenage stage, I'm parting with my set of Avery
Tools. Attached is a .pdf Acrobat file containing
shots of my complete RV7 tool set I'm selling along
with images of the original invoice from Avery Tools.
Several items were added after the original purchase
and are not reflected in the original invoice. These
items are listed below:
-Precision Instruments 1/4" Drive Dial-Type Torque
Wrench with Memory, 0-75 lb.in (I discovered that the
cheap torque wrench I had purchased was not accurate
enough for aircraft construction. After twisting the
head off a bolt that was spec'd for only 24 inch/lbs,
I bought the best I could find. This lists for $199
online.
-Adjustable Rivet Cutter
-Quick change pins for the pneumatic squeezer (a great
addition since you'll frequently change the yokes)
-2nd cleco wrench
-Boelube-tube
These items roughly add up to an additional $250 over
the invoice price shown below of $2,422.
2 items that show up on the original invoice are not
included. These are a 24" metal ruler and the S/B
cutting and polishing wheel. I believe I have used up
1 or 2 of the cobalt bits. These are about a buck
apiece depending on the bit.
All of the tools are in like new shape as I only used
them on the tail kit for an RV7 with the drill bits
and countersink bits like new. Avery tools are great
quality. The pneumatic squeezer and 3 yokes with
adjustable set holder are not included in the basic
Avery Tools RV7 kit (good to know if you are trying to
compare my price with Avery's current pricing). Also
upgraded from the basic kit is the digital angle
finder, heavy duty ball bearing microstop countersink
cutter and metal micrometer. There may be others that
I'm forgetting. I just checked their website and it
looks like their prices have gone up since I purchased
these. To replace everything today would likely top
$3,000 for all the items I've listed here. I'd be
willing to part with everything for $2,100 (the items
I'm selling cost me $2,600 roughly). The buyer will
need to pay for shipping of their choice. I will also
require payment via cashier's check made out to my
name. If I can answer any questions, please call me at
312.943.5529 ext:14 during the day or e-mail me at richard(at)taylorbruce.com.
__________________________________
http://messenger.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | mark phipps <skydive80020(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Ellison Throttle Body |
Thanks Scott, I look into that, I am not sure yet how short it is because i havent
decided on exactly where I want to penetrate the firewall.
Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com> wrote:--> RV-List message posted
by: Scott Bilinski
How short is it? Spruce sells extensions.......up to 6 inches I think.
>
>I am installing an Ellison Throttle Body on my 6A and find the standard
>length throttle cable does not work due to the 90 degree right
>orientation. I would like some info as to what length Throttle cable
>others have used for the Ellison and how they routed it through the firewall.
>
>Mark Phipps, N242RP, almost flying.
>
>
>---------------------------------
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Modifying RV6 chin scoop |
Shirley:
I had the same problem with my RV-7A and an XP-360 engine with FADEC.
Vertical clearances for the FAB and the cowl were very very tight. They were
rubbing. So I cut off the bottom portion of the scoop, lowered it by one
inch, re-fiberglassed and re-contoured and now no more problems. The
position of the air inlet hole was not altered.
I was lucky enough to have the advice of a Velocity builder. With hindsight,
it was a straightforward operation, though at the beginning I definitely did
not have the glass layup skills I needed. After all, I built a METAL
airplane! Get some advice before you start.
Regards,
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "R. Craig Chipley" <mechtech81(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | RV Fly In Missouri |
There is a fly in this weekend around Mt Vernon,MO. I
lost the info. Would someone let me know the
coordinates again, Thanks, Craig C
__________________________________
http://messenger.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Lwfeatherston(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: RV Fly In Missouri |
Hi Craig, My name if Les Featherston. I had a wonderful FlyIn last year at
my small grass airstrip near Mt Vernon, MO. I would love it if you could come
on June 5th. Rebel's Bluff AS is named after a Civil War event that occurred
just about 200 yards off the end of RW 34. It is a 2,200' by 75' of very,
VERY nice sod runway. N37 06.1 and W93 52.2. Program Mt Vernon International
Airport (2MO) in your GPS and look 2 miles NNE for Rebel's Bluff. We are
getting together about 10:00AM till 5:00PM, and the Boy Scouts are having a fund
raiser for lunch. If you can spend the night, my wife and I would like to host
you for a steak or Bar-B-Que Chicken Dinner (About $8) with all the trimmings,
and you can camp on the airstrip or the local Super 8 is very nice for $50. I
will provide the transportation to Super 8. I must warn you, if you stay for
dinner, you will be forced to listen to some really old "war stories," but
most are somewhat true????????? I have AVgas 100LL for $2.25, and would love to
have you in. Where are you located, and what do you fly? Hope to see you,
Les 417-466-4663 Please RSVP for dinner as we are getting a bit crowded. Thx
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Greg Grigson <iflyhawaii2(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Ellison Throttle Body |
Mark,
I'll have to check the length, probably the 60 incher. I went through the center
of the FW down the right side of the lower engine case.. I am using a center
mounted quadrant, but should be similar. What did you do about the lower (TB)
mixture bracket? That one has me stumped.
Greg
Honolulu
mark phipps wrote:
I am installing an Ellison Throttle Body on my 6A and find the standard length
throttle cable does not work due to the 90 degree right orientation. I would like
some info as to what length Throttle cable others have used for the Ellison
and how they routed it through the firewall.
Mark Phipps, N242RP, almost flying.
---------------------------------
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Craig Warner" <cwarner(at)twcny.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV Fly In Missouri |
Hi Les
Right now I am flying a Piper tri-Pacer. I am just finishing the empenage of
an RV6 non-pre-punched. Your fly in sounds interesting. Maybe next year
when the RV6 is flying ;-) Thanks for the invite.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Lwfeatherston(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV Fly In Missouri
>
> Hi Craig, My name if Les Featherston. I had a wonderful FlyIn last year
at
> my small grass airstrip near Mt Vernon, MO. I would love it if you could
come
> on June 5th. Rebel's Bluff AS is named after a Civil War event that
occurred
> just about 200 yards off the end of RW 34. It is a 2,200' by 75' of very,
> VERY nice sod runway. N37 06.1 and W93 52.2. Program Mt Vernon
International
> Airport (2MO) in your GPS and look 2 miles NNE for Rebel's Bluff. We are
> getting together about 10:00AM till 5:00PM, and the Boy Scouts are having
a fund
> raiser for lunch. If you can spend the night, my wife and I would like to
host
> you for a steak or Bar-B-Que Chicken Dinner (About $8) with all the
trimmings,
> and you can camp on the airstrip or the local Super 8 is very nice for
$50. I
> will provide the transportation to Super 8. I must warn you, if you stay
for
> dinner, you will be forced to listen to some really old "war stories," but
> most are somewhat true????????? I have AVgas 100LL for $2.25, and would
love to
> have you in. Where are you located, and what do you fly? Hope to see
you,
> Les 417-466-4663 Please RSVP for dinner as we are getting a bit crowded.
Thx
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Duel electric fuel pumps |
I just installed an accessory case machined for the pump
on my D2J. I remember there was also a place that could
machine the D2J case for the pump. I wanted the redundancy
of Mech/ Elec pumps.
Stewart Rv4 950 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Modifying RV6 Chin Scoop |
From: | <EricHe(at)FlexSolPackaging.com> |
Shirley, it is time for you to discover the wonders of two-part expanding foam.
With ex-foam, all things are possible. Go to your local fiberglass boat supply
house and ask for it. You mix it 50/50 and hear me now and believe me later,
DO NOT GET IT ON YOUR SKIN. It will hang on for a month. Just hack away at the
scoop as you see fit and get it clecoed into place some how. Just put it where
ya want it and dont make it pretty. Hack away any thing that gets in the way
of an eventual smooth transition between surfaces. Pay close attention that
each side is semetrical.
When you get it all fixed liek ya like it, mix up a little cup of ex-foam and stir
it up, let it start to bubble before you put it on and then just pour it into
the voids. It will rise up like bread and will sand like stale bread. 80 grit
sandpaper will shape it with ease. Just keep putting it where ya need to make
a nice transition. Cut away anything that gets in the way (flanges that don't
fit). Keep at it until you have a nice smooth scoop. Then lay two layers of
glass over what you have, light glass is fine. Bring the two layers up on the
edges of the outer cowl a couple of inches. Let that dry over night. You have
just made the outer shell of your new scoop. I like to let the outer shell
kick for about an hour and then I come back over it when its tacky and slather
it with microbaloons so everything comes from the same layup.
Now that its dry, flip it over. You have a lot of extra crud you don't need inside.
Take your die grinder and sand all the unneeded crap away, a hack saw blade
will rip out all the exp-foam quickly. Make it transition nice and smooth to
the new shell from inside. Sand everything inside and lay up two more layers
of glass on the inside. Then just make it all pretty. BTW, for sanding inside
the concave surfaces of the scoop, pvc T's are great. Go get one of each size
for round sanding blocks.
The actual process is easier than reading this long e-mail.
Eric Henson
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Modifying RV6 chin scoop
I have an RV6 with a Superior O-360 carby engine in it
and the FAB 0-360 S type cowl air box on it.
I have just trimmed and then tried to fit my O-320
cowl air chin scoop on (bought some years ago as part
of the quick build kit when I was planning on a
smaller engine) and it is too small vertically to
accept the air box.
Does anyone have any ideas about splitting the chin
scoop and then fibreglassing it to a new shape, as I
live in Western Australia and the freight back to Vans
and the fact that it is already trimmed to shape make
it unreturnable, and very expensive to buy a new
correct O-360 type.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | 7A Slider Question |
From: | tacaruth(at)ralcorp.com |
06/03/2004 09:23:08 AM
HI All,
I have a question for the group about the slider canopy. How far does the
center cover extend on the rear of the canopy? This is the 1" wide
aluminum strip that covers the center tube and plexiglass down the top
middle of the canopy. Will this be covered by the rear skirts or will the
skirts but up to it? Does the center rail "doghouse (???)" attach on top
of this junction? The plans are don't show the relationship of these
pieces. I'm hoping someone who has done this can give some advise.
Thanks in advance,
Tom, RV-7A, working slowly on the canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: 7A Slider Question |
tacaruth(at)ralcorp.com wrote:
How far does the
center cover extend on the rear of the canopy? This is the 1" wide
aluminum strip that covers the center tube and plexiglass down the top
middle of the canopy.
All the way to the rear skirt.
Will this be covered by the rear skirts or will the skirts but up to it?
The rear skirts overlap, butt the center strip to the leading edge of the skirts.
Does the center rail "doghouse (???)" attach on top
of this junction?
Yes. The cover should mount on top of the skirts, up to the leading edge of the
skirts (just to the rear of the center strip), and then back however far it
needs to go.
There are a lot of web sites out there that will show you this detail. And don't
limit yourself to the -7 when you're looking. -6 sliders are pretty much the
same in this regard.
- Mike
Michael E. Thompson (Grobdriver(at)yahoo.com)
Austin, TX, USA
RV-6 N140RV, FLYING!
Ex-AX1 Sub Hunter, P-3 (B/B-TACMOD/C) Orion Aircrew,
PP-G,ASEL, Motorglider Driver and Unlimited Air Race Nut!
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Electric Fuel Pump |
From: | Scott.Fink(at)microchip.com |
06/03/2004 09:50:45 AM,
Serialize complete at 06/03/2004 09:50:45 AM
Mark/Matt,
It should be noted, however, that on my Cherokee the electric fuel pump
and gascolator are isolated from the rest of the engine compartment with
baffling and have a blast tube for cooling of the "box" they are in.
Scott
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
06/02/2004 10:24 AM
Please respond to rv-list
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Electric Fuel Pump
Matt,
There are tons of certified spam cans flying with a Facet fuel pump on the
engine side of the firewall....all the Piper Warrior/Archer series that
I've worked on are this way. I don't think they really get that hot...as
long as you aren't having vapor lock problems, I wouldn't worry about
it...the electric boost pump is redundant to the mech pump anyway, so a
failure isn't going to be a big deal.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D with Facet 'beer can' pump in the wing root, along with the
gascolator, where it ain't gonna vapor lock...
-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Jurotich <mjurotich(at)hst.nasa.gov>
Subject: RV-List: Electric Fuel Pump
My electric fuel pump "Facet?" is on the engine side of the firewall. Been
there for 325 hours. One on my friends said the firewall side is too hot
and may cause the pump to not work when you need it. What do you fuel
system wizards say? O360 with mechanical pump on engine.
Thanks
Matthew M. Jurotich
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Pulley Groove Dimensions |
To machine a pulley for my alternator, I need the dimensions/tolerances for pulley
groove 10A/11A or .380/.440" which is found in copyrighted SAE standard J636
which I can buy for $60. Before I do that, I thought I'd ask if anyone on
the list had that information, eg.
Groove width at top
Groove depth
Groove included angle of sides
Dave Reel - RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
"'owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com '"(at)matronics.com
Is this the same thing as a counter-balanced crank? I would assume not. What
is
the difference?
Fred,
A dymanically balanced crankshaft is one that was balanced by spinning it
and measuring the out-of-balanced acceleration and then correcting this by
mass addition or removal.
A crankshaft with counter balancers is a misnomer. These are actually
pendulums designed to interfere with torsional vibrations which can
harmonically resonate the crankshaft at higher load/rpm settings.
The simplified version is, order defines which resonant level you are
shooting for to alter. An example of this is when you run a prop or spoked
wheel next to a strobe, like a house light strobing at 60hz, the spokes will
appear to line up and stop at various RPMs, ie they are "resonating" with
the 60hz light at different levels or multiples of 60hz.
The harmonic resononce is not linear in terms of RPM like it is with the
spokes and light, but it does have levels where the torsional vibration will
time in a frequency that causes the metal to become more flexible. This
doesn't mean much unless there's enough load for the extra flexibility to
suddenly allow the crank to actually flex and twist destructively.
So a crank with a specific prop, and possibly in a specific aircraft, will
hit these resonant ranges at various RPMs, but the only ones that matter are
the ones at higher load settings, say above 50% power.
So first order may be at 1500, second at 1800, third at 2100, fourth at 2500
and fifth at 2900 and so on. If redline is 2700, and 50% power is at 2200
RPM than the only one that matters in terms of being a resonant frequency,
and having enough load to actually do damage due to the extra flexibility is
the fourth order one at 2500. (Note; I've made up these numbers for the
purpose of illustrating this)
The other thing to be aware of is that the resonant flexibility they are
trying to dampen, and it can be more then one, may not be about preventing
crankshaft damage. They might have found a whipping problem in the accessory
section or somewhere else to which they are addressing.
I always get Order and Mode mixed up, but I believe Mode is the number of
twists back and forth that will exist in the shaft at a specific order. In
other words if you whip a rope slowly it will make a sine wave, if speed
this up it will eventually make two sine waves, then three, and on and on.
The same thing is true of I start twisting a rubber band with a weight on
one end.
Since a six cylinder engine may have two on either end of the power stroke
and two on either end of the compression stroke one can see why they tend to
have more complex twisting loads. And therefore more often have balancers.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bruce Meacham" <bruce_meacham(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | New England Wing RVator Fly-In |
Announcing - - for those who do not already know ...
The EAA106 chapter of Greater Boston
www.EAA106.org
is hosting a RV Fly-In at LWM
Saturday June 12
which is the 3rd annual RV Fly-In by the
New England Van's Air Force Wing
www.nevaf.com
- including 3 seminars -
RAIN DATE: Sat, June 19th
To be held at the EAA106 hanger at LWM - -
Lawrence Municipal airport - - just northwest of Boston, MA
Schedule for the day
09:00 - RV Static Display aircraft requested to arrive by this time
09:30 - RV Active Area aircraft and non-RV aircraft requested to arrive by
this time
09:00-10:00 Gate manned for those driving in
10:00 - SEMINAR - Formation Flying: Stu McCurdy of Formation Flight International
(FFI)
11:30-NOON Gate manned again for those driving in
11:30 - LUNCH - socializing / look at aircraft
13:00 - SEMINAR - Preparing for your first flight: Joe Gauthier
14:30 - SEMINAR - Basic metalworking workshop: Bob DiMeo
16:00 - Aircraft Depart
Fly or Drive - but PLEASE send fill out and send me the RSVP form (one for each
aircraft or carload) along with guest info. We need to get counts of people,
how many staying during lunch cookout, planes (including non-RVs which we will
need to park in a separate area), and especially how many in your party want
to purchase the seminar handouts - the seminars are free, but the materials must
be pre-printed and cost $10 for a set covering all 3 seminars).
Go to the www.EAA106.org website for our RSVP form (we're not sophisticated enough this year for a fancy web form - it's a Word document with questions in a table - next year we'll try to do it better) as well as links to maps for driving (after you are on Rt-495 northbound just north of I-93), airport diagram for locating the EAA106 hanger, frequencies, and hanger area diagram showing 3 aircraft parking areas - - RV static display, RV active area, and non-RV aircraft.
Send me an e-mail if you cannot grab the RSVP form from the website and I'll e-mail
it to you. Please fill out and send me the RSVP along with an aircraft picture
and caption for EACH person in your party (see RSVP form page 1 for explanation
and caption examples) - send ASAP.
If you think you are probably going to come but are not 100% sure, I'd rather have
your info and spend time THIS week making your badge then not use it if you
cancel than have you send me your info for the first time next week which leaves
me little time to make badges. The event badges are not an "ID" per se,
but rather a conversation stimulator with your name, your aviation affiliations,
and most importantly, a picture of an aircraft that you either a) have built,
b) are building (or one like it), own (such as certified), or one you'd like
to build or own (category of many pilots and aviation enthusiasts without wings
at present).
So far (as I write this mail on Thurs, 6/3, at 6 pm), we have 13 RVs confirmed
and another 3 RVs not fully confirmed, 8 non-RV aircraft, and 84 people so far...
but if you are coming, PLEASE send me the RSVP form ASAP so I can add you
to the list and make your badge now. Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave Ford" <dford(at)michweb.net> |
Subject: | exhaust smell during descent |
I have recently been noticing an exhaust type smell during power reduced decents
in my RV6. Was just wondering if anyone has experienced that. Nothing has
changed since I started flying in January other than warmer weather coming to
Michigan now. I'm not quite sure where it would be coming in except maybe somewhere
in the tail/tailwheel area? The only other place might be the .030 holes
I drilled for the gear leg fairing hinge pins?
Dave Ford
RV6
80 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | exhaust smell during descent |
> I have recently been noticing an exhaust type smell during
> power reduced decents in my RV6. Was just wondering if
> anyone has experienced that. Nothing has changed since I
> started flying in January other than warmer weather coming to
> Michigan now. I'm not quite sure where it would be coming in
> except maybe somewhere in the tail/tailwheel area? The only
> other place might be the .030 holes I drilled for the gear
> leg fairing hinge pins?
>
> Dave Ford
> RV6
> 80 hrs
Dave, I have noticed the same thing when at higher angles of attack, 70
knots for example. Additionally, at those speeds normally one has the
mixture full rich in preparation for landing, making things worse. This
time of the year, in between using the heaters and using the ventilation
system is when one will notice this (no fresh air to push out other
incoming leaks).
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 273 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randy Compton" <thecomptons(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Re: exhaust smell during descent |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Ford" <dford(at)michweb.net>
Subject: RV-List: exhaust smell during descent
>
> I have recently been noticing an exhaust type smell during power reduced
decents in my RV6. Was just wondering if anyone has experienced that.
Nothing has changed since I started flying in January other than warmer
weather coming to Michigan now. I'm not quite sure where it would be coming
in except maybe somewhere in the tail/tailwheel area? The only other place
might be the .030 holes I drilled for the gear leg fairing hinge pins?
>
> Dave Ford
> RV6
> 80 hrs
I also get this smell in my -3. Like you, I think it is coming in through
the tail area.
I'm just wondering why I only get the fumes when I'm reducing power in a
descent, usually when descending and slowing to enter the landing pattern,
and not at any other time, i.e.. takeoff, cruise, acro. For what its worth,
the smell/fumes do not affect my carbon monoxide detector.
Randy Compton
RV-3
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | PeterHunt1(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Location of Fuel Flow Transducer |
I need a little help understanding where to place my fuel flow transducer.
The manufacturer suggested suspending it somewhere in the flexible hose running
between the engine fuel pump and carburetor, and at the same level as the
carburetor. This is awkward in my situation (O-360-A1A) and would involve
several additional fittings (and perhaps failure points). I would like to place
my
fuel flow transducer just after my electric fuel pump (inside the cockpit and
before the gascolator). Is there an argument against doing this? Is there
some pulsing issue? What have others done that has worked well? The
manufacturer discourages fastening the fuel flow transducer outlet directly to
the
carburetor which is another option for me, but I can't get from them a reason why.
What I want to understand is where to place my fuel flow transducer and, most
specifically, why.
Pete
Clearwater, FL
RV-6, completing engine instillation
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
Subject: | Big Momma & Landings |
Ok, I guess it's my turn to quote Austin without that archive-no-no stuff:
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Austin
Subject: RV-List: Big Momma & Landings
Hi guys,
Back when I was abuilding, I got precious little to none
rides in an RV, and wondered why this was so....
What I heard over and over was...." well, ya know, these RVs are sure a lot
different when you have another rider along...makes a big difference and ya
can sure feel it.."......B.S...Bravo Sierra..
I can't say I concur with that, but I will say that today made me
realize what changes CAN be noticed when you have full tanks and a full
load...and a very hot day...
Took Momma along for a ride to meet Daughter for lunch and it was so hot my
shirt stuck to my back all day....
Now Momma normally does not care all that much for " Them little arioplanes
" preferring Boeing type...but away we went and with the two landings I had
to make, while using full flap and approach at 85 and bleeding off, I
noticed to my great surprise that I altered trim very little ......Compared
to what I use when flying alone., I normally crank in a lot., but not
today...Momma is a bit big....bigger than me....and I guess that aids the
trim on a hot day with full fuel....
Landing speeds were the same...just seemed to be what the airplane wanted
and I got compliments on the landings for which I would also like to give
credit to my new tires....no shimmy.........
I ain't no expert on performance figures and all....me being a
pilot and not an accountant, but I still think the RV handles and feels much
the same with two up, all things considered, and jist think them old dinks
was stingy in not giving a rabid, budding builder a ride now and then.......
jist to keep the blood up and fire going on the rivet gun...I know I am
happy to spread the RV gospel anytime a newbie wants inspiration.....
Also, I give everlasting thanks to one real gentleman who gave me a full
hour of touch and goes without once touching the stick and this, after I
had been off for 4 years.....now there is faith...
I will always think of that..
Another note....I sure do like carrier landings and do believe that if you
have power..use it....but deadstick landing practice has told me that you
must be in close and know your sink rate to get in where you want to put
down 'cause these sure ain't Cessnas.
Ya gotta love these wonderful little hotrods.
And as us two old grey haired folk climbed in and buckled up, it brought a
smile when 4 people strolled by smiling, looked at us and the RV and gave "
thumbs up "....." lookin' good "
Back to the old armchair and a nap, logbook fallen on the floor, TV talking
to nobody, smell of gas on my hands turning the cat off, and dreaming of
cloud chasing....zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz.
Anonymous
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Location of Fuel Flow Transducer |
In a message dated 6/3/2004 7:53:07 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
PeterHunt1(at)aol.com writes:
I need a little help understanding where to place my fuel flow transducer.
The manufacturer suggested suspending it somewhere in the flexible hose
running
between the engine fuel pump and carburetor, and at the same level as the
carburetor. This is awkward in my situation (O-360-A1A) and would involve
several additional fittings (and perhaps failure points). I would like to
place my
fuel flow transducer just after my electric fuel pump (inside the cockpit
and
before the gascolator). Is there an argument against doing this? Is there
some pulsing issue? What have others done that has worked well?
Try to minimize turbulence in the line just upstream of your transducer
inlet (don't make single 90 degree turns close by, instead use a 45 degree
fitting on the hose end and then another 45 degree fitting on the transducer if
you
have to to make the turn). The transducer for my VM1000 is mounted to the
firewall using the long screw mounts that come installed on it and has worked
fine for me. Hard line runs from the interior wall mounted boost pump, thru
the f/w, to the f/w mounted gascolator, then flex line to the mech fuel pump
inlet, flex line to the transducer inlet and flex line to the carb inlet.
Pressure tap comes off the mech pump outlet fitting and primer line comes off
top of gascolator to f/w mounted solenoid, then to splitter and then to union
cones at three cylinders.
Pay particular attention to the orientation as described in the instructions
though. IIRC there is a particular portion of the transducer that must face
up to foster best flow.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 701 hrs; last trip, Sedona)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
Subject: | Fuel Flow Transducer |
I need a little help understanding where to place my fuel flow transducer.
The manufacturer suggested suspending it somewhere in the flexible hose
running
between the engine fuel pump and carburetor, and at the same level as the
carburetor. This is awkward in my situation (O-360-A1A) and would involve
several additional fittings (and perhaps failure points). I would like to
place my
fuel flow transducer just after my electric fuel pump (inside the cockpit
and
before the gascolator). Is there an argument against doing this? Is there
some pulsing issue? What have others done that has worked well? The
manufacturer discourages fastening the fuel flow transducer outlet directly
to the
carburetor which is another option for me, but I can't get from them a
reason why.
What I want to understand is where to place my fuel flow transducer and,
most
specifically, why.
Pete
Clearwater, FL
RV-6, completing engine instillation
((((((((((())))))))))))
I am using the transducer that comes with the ACS2002. I placed mine
between the electronic fuel pump and the gascolator on the cabin side of the
FW. Fuel line is level going into and out of the transducer. I had to put
some holes in the floor and build a bracket to hold the transducer above the
floor about an 1" and fabricate/bend some aluminum fuel line to get the
required straight 5" before and after the transducer. I think mine is a
little less than 5 " straight after the transducer. It is a fit and took
about 4 times before I got it so it looks right. You'll want to make sure
your rudder/brake peddles do touch anything when you are done.
I could probably send you a picture if you would like that.
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: exhaust smell during descent |
I have/had the same problem. It started after I tucked up and straightened
out my exhaust pipes. I have since then moved them to see if the exhaust
smell will go away. So, check to see if your exhaust pipe hangers are ok,
your pipes may have moved.
>
>I have recently been noticing an exhaust type smell during power reduced
>decents in my RV6. Was just wondering if anyone has experienced
>that. Nothing has changed since I started flying in January other than
>warmer weather coming to Michigan now. I'm not quite sure where it would
>be coming in except maybe somewhere in the tail/tailwheel area? The only
>other place might be the .030 holes I drilled for the gear leg fairing
>hinge pins?
>
>Dave Ford
>RV6
>80 hrs
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | please unsubscribe me |
Please unsubscribe me,,, thank you
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard Suffoletto" <rsuffoletto(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Grommets for fuel lines |
The plans show two grommets per side where the fuel line exits the side of the
fuselage on a 7A, . I simply cannot get two grommets to fit, one from the inside
and one from the outside. The small space between the fuselage skins in this
area is not wide enough for two grommets.
What am I missing or doing wrong?
Thanks
Richard
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
Subject: | Re: Grommets for fuel lines |
Put a bulkhead fitting there instead. This way you can remove the fuel tank
simply by disconnecting the fuel line at the fuselage.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Soon
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Suffoletto" <rsuffoletto(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Grommets for fuel lines
>
>
> The plans show two grommets per side where the fuel line exits the side of
the fuselage on a 7A, . I simply cannot get two grommets to fit, one from
the inside and one from the outside. The small space between the fuselage
skins in this area is not wide enough for two grommets.
>
>
> What am I missing or doing wrong?
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Richard
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Chuck Jensen <cjensen(at)dts9000.com> |
le
Subject: | Terminal procedures and airport diagrams now availab |
le
If you happen to be an AOPA member, https://www.aopa.org/ticketLogin, they
have all of the procedures in digital format, they list all of the
procedures for each airport, then you can select the producers you want and
download all of them in a single download. Free (after membership) and you
don't have to drill down half way to China just to get to a couple
procedures.
Or, they're only a couple clicks away on http://www.airnav.com/airport Free
also.
Chuck
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of David Carter
Subject: Re: RV-List: Terminal procedures and airport diagrams now
available
I went there - you have to drill down through the links on left side: Click
"Aeronautical Charting" then "On-line Products"(this is a good one to "book
mark") then either "digital- TPP" or "Airport Diagrams" then select the
"effective dates" you want - for inst apch procedures this is at
http://avn.faa.gov/index.asp?xml=naco/online/d_tpp
After you click the effective date, you get the map of US and click state,
then enter aprt identifier.
If you navigate a different route, you'll see stuff about subscription
prices - ignore that and keep going until you get to the page where you
enter your airport identifier and print the thing you want -for free.
David
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net>
Subject: RV-List: Terminal procedures and airport diagrams now available
>
> Though you would find interesting that the FAA has introduced FREE
> digital charting on-line with the availability of instrument approaches,
> procedures, airport diagrams, and other interesting stuff. Now I know
> you can get these in other places. But here is the catch. These are not
> scanned crappy images. These are digital, legal, up to date, printable,
> pdf's, high quality plates and airport diagrams.
>
> Images are 250kb ish in size.
>
> It appears that they will also be doing other charting items in the
> future so keep your eyes peeled.
>
> Enjoy,
>
> http://avn.faa.gov/index.asp?xmlnaco/onlineproducts
>
> Michael Stewart
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Chuck Jensen <cjensen(at)dts9000.com> |
Subject: | Re:New Electronic Instruments |
Martin, this is to confirm your encryption is working fine.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Martin Hone
Subject: RV-List: Re:New Electronic Instruments
RydEYXkgUm9ubmllLA0KIA0KVGhlIFNtYXJ0IFNpbmdsZXMgYW5kIGVsZWN0cm9uaWMsIHNvbGlk
LXN0YXRlIGd5cm9zIG9mZmVyZWQgYnkgdGhpcyBTb3V0aCBBZnJpY2FuIG91dGZpdCBhcmUgdmVy
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IA0KSSBoYWQgdGhlIG9wcG9ydHVuaXR5IHRvIGhhdmUgYSBmaXJzdC1oYW5kIGxvb2sgcmVjZW50
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YSB3b3JrLW91dCBhdCB0aGVpciBib290aC4gSSBzaW1wbHkgaGVsZCB0aGUgcmVtb3RlIGhlYWQg
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DQogDQpNYXJ0aW4gaW4gT3oNCg=
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
Subject: | Re: Grommets for fuel lines |
Don't use two grommets. Open up the hole in the 7101 (or whatever it is)
plate large enough so that the fuel line couldn't possibly touch. Then just
use a single grommet in the hole in the skin.
Just my 2 cents,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Suffoletto" <rsuffoletto(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Grommets for fuel lines
>
>
> The plans show two grommets per side where the fuel line exits the side of
the fuselage on a 7A, . I simply cannot get two grommets to fit, one from
the inside and one from the outside. The small space between the fuselage
skins in this area is not wide enough for two grommets.
>
>
> What am I missing or doing wrong?
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Richard
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Grommets for fuel lines |
I think the '9 is similar in this area. Some of us used just 1 grommet and
enlarged the other hole a little so it doesn't interfere with the line.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Suffoletto" <rsuffoletto(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Grommets for fuel lines
> The plans show two grommets per side where the fuel line exits the side of
the fuselage on a 7A, . I simply cannot get two grommets to fit, one from
the inside and one from the outside. The small space between the fuselage
skins in this area is not wide enough for two grommets.
> What am I missing or doing wrong?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
Subject: | Re: Terminal procedures and airport diagrams now availab |
le
Also try www.myairplane.com
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Soon
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen(at)dts9000.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Terminal procedures and airport diagrams now availab
le
>
> If you happen to be an AOPA member, https://www.aopa.org/ticketLogin, they
> have all of the procedures in digital format, they list all of the
> procedures for each airport, then you can select the producers you want
and
> download all of them in a single download. Free (after membership) and you
> don't have to drill down half way to China just to get to a couple
> procedures.
>
> Or, they're only a couple clicks away on http://www.airnav.com/airport
Free
> also.
>
> Chuck
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of David Carter
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Terminal procedures and airport diagrams now
> available
>
>
> I went there - you have to drill down through the links on left side:
Click
> "Aeronautical Charting" then "On-line Products"(this is a good one to
"book
> mark") then either "digital- TPP" or "Airport Diagrams" then select the
> "effective dates" you want - for inst apch procedures this is at
> http://avn.faa.gov/index.asp?xml=naco/online/d_tpp
>
> After you click the effective date, you get the map of US and click state,
> then enter aprt identifier.
>
> If you navigate a different route, you'll see stuff about subscription
> prices - ignore that and keep going until you get to the page where you
> enter your airport identifier and print the thing you want -for free.
>
> David
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net>
> To: ; <3.6>; ; ; ;
>
> Subject: RV-List: Terminal procedures and airport diagrams now available
>
>
>
> >
> > Though you would find interesting that the FAA has introduced FREE
> > digital charting on-line with the availability of instrument approaches,
> > procedures, airport diagrams, and other interesting stuff. Now I know
> > you can get these in other places. But here is the catch. These are not
> > scanned crappy images. These are digital, legal, up to date, printable,
> > pdf's, high quality plates and airport diagrams.
> >
> > Images are 250kb ish in size.
> >
> > It appears that they will also be doing other charting items in the
> > future so keep your eyes peeled.
> >
> > Enjoy,
> >
> > http://avn.faa.gov/index.asp?xmlnaco/onlineproducts
> >
> > Michael Stewart
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Location of Fuel Flow Transducer |
Pete,
On my 6A, I put the transducer on side of the fuselage next to the
rudder pedals between the electric fuel pump and the firewall. I have
about 6 inches of straight tubing before the transducer and probably
8-10 inches after. The transducer is angled the same as the fuel pump.
This set up is working well. My fuel flow reading is within .5 gal of
actual consumed. I have it set on the conservative side (i.e. reading
less fuel remaining than actual.) I am using the GRT EIS and am getting
a non-steady fuel flow reading at all power settings. The fuel flow
reading will slowly go up about 1 gal/hr and slowly back down and then
up again. Since it reads 0.1 gal/hr, this fluctuation looks big but my
end result fuel flow error is not large Greg at GRT is recommending
that I place a dampening tube before the transducer that I will probably
do next winter. Right now, I am having to much fun flying to worry
about this.
Ross Mickey
N9PT
-----Original Message-----
Subject: RV-List: Location of Fuel Flow Transducer
posted by: PeterHunt1(at)aol.com
I need a little help understanding where to place my fuel flow
transducer.
The manufacturer suggested suspending it somewhere in the flexible hose
running
between the engine fuel pump and carburetor, and at the same level as
the
carburetor. This is awkward in my situation (O-360-A1A) and would
involve
several additional fittings (and perhaps failure points). I would like
to place my
fuel flow transducer just after my electric fuel pump (inside the
cockpit and
before the gascolator). Is there an argument against doing this? Is
there
some pulsing issue? What have others done that has worked well? The
manufacturer discourages fastening the fuel flow transducer outlet
directly to the
carburetor which is another option for me, but I can't get from them a
reason why.
What I want to understand is where to place my fuel flow transducer and,
most
specifically, why.
Pete
Clearwater, FL
RV-6, completing engine instillation
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com, RV10(at)yahoogroups.com
Just wanted to let you all know that last Saturday, with the help of my
Yak-52 buddy, and safety wire aficionado, Dave Petri, and with adult
supervision from IA and RV-4 Driver Dom MacNiven, I reassembled the engine
for my -8A... Everything went together great with no problems at all...
After working the rest of the week on getting everything else back together
I finally fired her back up last night... What a relief... She came to
life in about 3 blades and ran great! Very smooth... I plan to do some
flying on Sunday and will post more info then...
Quick review:
Engine: (was) O320-E3D @150HP - that had a bad cam, which I was told was
cause about an 18% power loss, so let's say it was about 125HP... That
coupled with my field elevation of 7000' gave me about 94HP, and at 2300 RPM
on take-ff equated to about 65HP! LOL.....and I was still getting about 800
fpm climb and 175 MPH cruise!
Anyway... Engine: (now) O320-BELCHFIRE-170
I overhauled the engine with 9:1 pistons and an ASI Phase III CAM, which
should give me about 170HP, so this should be fun! I also had the cyls
overhauled by Don George aircraft... Just about everything else was
replaced but the cases, rods and valves, and everything was measured to be
within factory new specs... Looks like the finally price tag on this
overhaul is going to be about $4500, bringing the total cost for the engine
to $10,500...
I did get some donated parts that saved several hundred dollars, and a lot
of help from a lot of people! Thanks to all!
You can see more details here if you're interested:
http://www.rv8a.com/engine/overhaul/index.htm
-Bill VonDane
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
Subject: | Re: Location of Fuel Flow Transducer |
I installed mine in the same place, but haven't flown it enough to know how
well it works... I did notice that when I turn on the boost pump it read
about 1 gph higher... I ended up buying a pulsation dampener from Matt
Dralle to install:
http://www.matronics.com/fuelchec/dampener.html
The instructions also say something bout using a flexible line to help with
the pulses, so I may install the sphere right after the fuel pump and use a
flex line from the dampener to the flow transducer... Anyone see any
problems with this?
-Bill VonDane
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Location of Fuel Flow Transducer
Pete,
On my 6A, I put the transducer on side of the fuselage next to the
rudder pedals between the electric fuel pump and the firewall. I have
about 6 inches of straight tubing before the transducer and probably
8-10 inches after. The transducer is angled the same as the fuel pump.
This set up is working well. My fuel flow reading is within .5 gal of
actual consumed. I have it set on the conservative side (i.e. reading
less fuel remaining than actual.) I am using the GRT EIS and am getting
a non-steady fuel flow reading at all power settings. The fuel flow
reading will slowly go up about 1 gal/hr and slowly back down and then
up again. Since it reads 0.1 gal/hr, this fluctuation looks big but my
end result fuel flow error is not large Greg at GRT is recommending
that I place a dampening tube before the transducer that I will probably
do next winter. Right now, I am having to much fun flying to worry
about this.
Ross Mickey
N9PT
-----Original Message-----
Subject: RV-List: Location of Fuel Flow Transducer
posted by: PeterHunt1(at)aol.com
I need a little help understanding where to place my fuel flow
transducer.
The manufacturer suggested suspending it somewhere in the flexible hose
running
between the engine fuel pump and carburetor, and at the same level as
the
carburetor. This is awkward in my situation (O-360-A1A) and would
involve
several additional fittings (and perhaps failure points). I would like
to place my
fuel flow transducer just after my electric fuel pump (inside the
cockpit and
before the gascolator). Is there an argument against doing this? Is
there
some pulsing issue? What have others done that has worked well? The
manufacturer discourages fastening the fuel flow transducer outlet
directly to the
carburetor which is another option for me, but I can't get from them a
reason why.
What I want to understand is where to place my fuel flow transducer and,
most
specifically, why.
Pete
Clearwater, FL
RV-6, completing engine instillation
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
Bill- best of luck with the new engine.
I did the belchfire upgrade to mine after a bad cam & followers episode, but only
went to 8.5:1, for a nominal 160 hp. Now I get to buy premium mogas at home
and 100LL while on the road (nobody sells premium mogas at FBO's) for an additional
10 hp, which has made little if any perceptible difference in performance
(I'm still limited to 2600 rpm by the Sensenich engineering marvel on the
nose and get 2280 static rpm at 1050 MSL typically, will get even less if I coarsen
the pitch as has been recommended to avoid overspeeding in cruise!) Would
I do it again if I had it to do over? NO WAY! Not for the privilege of paying
20 cents per gallon more for hi-test when regular used to do. Also, I heard
that 160hp was as high as one ought to push the O-320-E2D due to the small
front main bearing (from an O-290; gee, thanks, Lycoming...) so you might be
in relatively uncharted territory.
Hope your mileage varies considerably from mine.
-Stormy / 6-A, 386 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
I talked to two different IAs about the so-called "weaker" front main
bearing in the E2D/E3D and they both told me it is bogus... In fact, my IA
buddy Len said that in his opinion the two piece bearing setup was easier to
install, less problematic, and probably stronger than the one piece...
The cases are the same, so where is the weakness? I don't know...
-Bill VonDane
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <SportAV8R(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: IT'S ALIVE!
Bill- best of luck with the new engine.
I did the belchfire upgrade to mine after a bad cam & followers episode, but
only went to 8.5:1, for a nominal 160 hp. Now I get to buy premium mogas at
home and 100LL while on the road (nobody sells premium mogas at FBO's) for
an additional 10 hp, which has made little if any perceptible difference in
performance (I'm still limited to 2600 rpm by the Sensenich engineering
marvel on the nose and get 2280 static rpm at 1050 MSL typically, will get
even less if I coarsen the pitch as has been recommended to avoid
overspeeding in cruise!) Would I do it again if I had it to do over? NO
WAY! Not for the privilege of paying 20 cents per gallon more for hi-test
when regular used to do. Also, I heard that 160hp was as high as one ought
to push the O-320-E2D due to the small front main bearing (from an O-290;
gee, thanks, Lycoming...) so you might be in relatively uncharted territory.
Hope your mileage varies considerably from mine.
-Stormy / 6-A, 386 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy(at)att.net> |
Subject: | Slider Canopy Rear Skirts ... No Problem! |
Hi all,
Just wanted to share a few thoughts and "crow" about how well (and easy) my -7A
slider canopy rear skirts were to install. Took all of 2.0 hours from start
to finish and they are FLUSH! I was really dreading this step in the construction
of the canopy after reading all the horror stories in the RV List archives
and various email lists. Heck, even Van's construction manual warns "....installing
the rear canopy skirts is perhaps the most difficult part of the entire
canopy construction process.....". I dis-agree! It was the easiest part for
me. I have a few ideas that may help dispell the fear of others who are not
quite there. Read on.....
First of all, none of this would have been possible without the help of my good
friend and local -7A builder Tom Yaberg. Tom has helped and guided me every
step of the way during the canopy construction from properly bending the canopy
frame and attaching the "glass", as well as installing the side and rear canopy
skirts. Tom recently completed his -7A slider canopy and it came out PERFECT.
My canopy is coming along just as well thanks to Tom's skills and the fact
the canopy construction is still fresh in his memory bank. Thank you, Tom!
Here are a couple of tips:
1. Try to locate a local builder who has sucessfully built a good looking (and
fitting) slider canopy that is willing to lend a hand. This is invaluable.
Don't be afraid to ask for help. Offer cold beer and pizza, a couple of steak
dinners, just do whatever it takes.... :-). It really takes two sets of hands
to safely move the canopy on/off the frame and to pull those skirts tight!
2. Spend the time necessary to get the steel canopy frame bent as close as possible
to the dimesions called out in the plans. Seems my canopy frame came from
the factory in pretty good shape.... only took Tom and me about 3 hours of
'tweaking' and we only had to install/re-move the canopy frame about 2 dozen times
from the fuselage.
3. I mis-takenly trimmed the canopy plexigalss within 3/8"-1/2" of the rear canopy
frame where the skirts will be attached. The plans indicate you should leave
approx. 1.5" of plexiglass back there. I didn't (again... by mistake) and
I think this is another reason the rear skirts fit so well and easy. By cutting
the plexiglass nearer the steel tube, I didn't have the "ski-slope/dove-tail"
effect of the rear canopy to worry about.... It just didn't exist!
4. I placed a 1/8" AL space between the roll bar and the forward portion of the
sliding canopy on both sides effectively holding it "open/ajar" while the rear
skirts were fitted. This I believe also helped snug-up the skirts even more
when the canopy is fully closed and latched.
Hope this helps those that haven't quite gotten there yet on the canopy. I may
have just gotten lucky, but I'm feeling pretty good about my "skirts" and canopy
in general. Only thing left is to fiberglass the front windscreen and Tom
has agreed to lend an expert hand there as well.....
Take care,
Jack Lockamy #71103
Camarillo, CA
-7A slider canopy almost done
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
Subject: | Home Wing Fly-in coming up! |
Don't miss the Thirteenth Annual Northwest RV Fly-In!
Hosted by EAA Chapter 105 and Van's Air Force, Home Wing
This is the premier RV event of the Northwest, with examples of every type
(and then some): Van's prototypes, Rockets, and all manner of RV to admire
and talk about. We'll have Vendors, and Flybys, and Burgers, an event
t-shirt, and lots and lots of good RV cameraderie.
Scappoose Airport (SPB)
Saturday June 19, 2004 starting at 10:00 A.M.
Details at www.eaa105.org.
See you there!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
Subject: | Re: [VAF Mailing List] Panel mounting a handheld GPS |
"vansairforce
<010201c449cd$c272e710$6401a8c0@dell8200>
<07a901c449ed$332499d0$6400a8c0@bvd1>" <00a101c44a66$8e9efc00$6401a8c0@dell8200>
No problem... You can pop the GPS out of the front too... There is a trim
ring around the GPS in the front that cleans it all up. It mounts using
nutplates in the panel... Take the ring off and you can pop out the gps...
http://www.vafml.org/members/bmackey/panel/9.jpg
http://www.vafml.org/members/bmackey/panel/3.jpg
http://www.vafml.org/members/bmackey/panel/2.jpg
If I were to do it again, and I guess I did on my -8A, I would make it
angled more toward the pilot... On mine I made a little puck to use for
mounting the GPS to the panel... It sticks out from the panel, but it is
also pointing right where I want it.....and I am very happy with it...
Follow the link below and scroll down to the "Garmin 196 Mounting"
section...
http://www.rv8a.com/upgrades/index.htm
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com>
Subject: Re: [VAF Mailing List] Panel mounting a handheld GPS
Bill, nice work, very creative! I may copy you, hope you don't mind.
Randy
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill VonDane
To: vansairforce(at)yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2004 9:34 PM
Subject: Re: [VAF Mailing List] Panel mounting a handheld GPS
Randy... you can sort of see how I did it in this photo:
http://www.vafml.org/members/bmackey/panel/9.jpg
Made a plate to attach the mount to, and then some stand offs to mount it
to
the panel with... the stand offs are delrin plastic and threaded on both
ends...
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com>
To:
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2004 6:45 PM
Subject: Re: [VAF Mailing List] Panel mounting a handheld GPS
Larry, how did you actually secure the GPS? I see a braket on the top but
no
means of attaching it to the GPS body.
Thanks,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 368 hrs
RV-3B, empennage
----- Original Message -----
From: Larry Bowen
To: vansairforce(at)yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2004 1:59 PM
Subject: RE: [VAF Mailing List] Panel mounting a handheld GPS
Yes.
http://bowenaero.com/copper/displayimage.php?album=topn&cat=0&pos=3
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: hughpa16 [mailto:hugh@bi-tech.com]
> Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2004 1:43 PM
> To: vansairforce(at)yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [VAF Mailing List] Panel mounting a handheld GPS
>
>
> Is it legal to panel mount a handheld GPS in an Experimental
> aircraft?? I am talking about a semi-permanent installation, not an
> installation that would make for quick removal. Thanks.
>
> Hugh "McFly"
>
>
>
>
>
> --------------------~-->
> Now with Pop-Up Blocker. Get it for free!
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/L5YrjA/eSIIAA/yQLSAA/1yWplB/TM
> ------~->
>
> Online help on this group at: http://help.yahoo.com/help/groups/
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Online help on this group at:
http://help.yahoo.com/help/groups/
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Draper <mdraper(at)nww.com> |
Subject: | QB delivery logistics |
I am back in the building mode working on my emp and am just about to
place an order for a QB fuse/wing.
May 25, 2004 - June 04, 2004
RV-Archive.digest.vol-pi