RV-Archive.digest.vol-pi

May 25, 2004 - June 04, 2004



      
               Once you have the basics of beam theory under control, you might
      wish to get a demo copy of ANSYS. http://www.ansys.com/ansys/designspace.htm
      
               You can then see how the stresses actually distribute. You will
      discover that, near the ends, beams don't behave like anything resembling
      beam theory.
      
               What you will come to realize, is that mechanical (structural)
      engineering is not nearly as neat and tidy as electrical engineering is.
      Nearly every project is a tangled ball of twine without a straightforward
      solution. Unlike electrical components, mechanical components often can't
      be modeled with simple equations. Electrical engineers moan when faced with
      transmission line  or antenna design because every component effects every
      other component in a non-linear manner.  These non-linear problems are
      typical for mechanical engineers. You can calculate the voltage and current
      with great accuracy in every part of a very complex circuit, but you can
      only take an educated guess as to the stress distribution in a crankshaft.
      Even with the best stress analysis software, you know the answer is
      probably no better than plus or minus 10%.
      
               Unlike electrical engineers, mechanical engineers are not upset
      when they cannot have an exact solution. They are not upset with what they
      know is a crappy solution, as long as they are confident that the solution
      is within safe bounds and probably won't fail. They are comfortable with a
      percentage of uncertainty, because they have no choice.
      
               Since you are working on a mechanical project, you must cultivate
      a more relaxed attitude towards an unavoidable degree of uncertainty.
      
               Bill Dube'
      
      I have a degree in mechanical engineering, and very nearly a degree in
      electrical engineering, so I am uniquely qualified to understand your
      dilemma. I can take the persecutive of either (or both) type of engineer.
      
      Check out my LED position lights at
      <http://www.killacycle.com/Lights.htm>
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: May 25, 2004
Subject: Re: Bending SS hinge pins
In a message dated 5/24/04 2:11:23 PM US Eastern Standard Time, Fiveonepw(at)aol.com writes: > > Hi Larry- > > I bent mine at 90 degrees, about 3/4" long and they still pull easily- I did > > it like this so the bent end can be inserted into a hole in a little piece > of > angle bonded to the inside of the skin with VHB tape to secure the pin. Has > > worked well so far, but I'd definately make them as long as practical- mine > only come through the firewall about 7". I wish I'd made them at least 5 or > 6 > inches longer, maybe more... > > From The PossumWorks in TN > Mark -6A, flying 75 hrs > > > I found that some old motorcycle clutch or brake cables were exactly the right size for bringing the hinge pins into the cockpit and anchoring them to the side of the second bulkhead (F-902). I bent the end down about 1 1/2 inches, then in at a slight forward angle about 3/8 inch, and slip it into a hole in the bulkhead. That way there are no sharp ends sticking out, and the pin is locked from coming back out. The hole is protected by a small piece of hard stainless steel to keep from scratching the bulkhead. I clamped the cable with 2 6-32 screws through a .032 1/2 inch wide clamp bent around a drill bit in a vise. Where it penetrates the firewall, another clamp was riveted through the skin and firewall, and filled with Pro-seal. The cable jacket takes quite a lot of force and needs to be anchored well. Dan Hopper RV-7A (Went to the airport for final assy yesterday!) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com>
Subject: I gotta Rocket!!!!
Date: May 25, 2004
All, and especially Gummi Bear, After years of whining and crying on this list I finally got a Rocket! Yippee! Get in that Bird of yours Gummi Bear and get out here and we will rip up the skies and find out who can fly ;-) Mark Fredrick is now the proud owner of my SNB-4 (Twin Beech in laymans Language) and I have the "Check Six" Rocket. I don't know what the plan is for it right now, I've got a freind who wants to buy it. What an airplane! Tailwinds, Doug Rozendaal Rocketeer! P.S. Now I have to come up with a new reason to hate Tom Gummo ;-) (suggestions accepted) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: May 25, 2004
Subject: Re: Wing Skin Install question
In a message dated 5/23/04 3:08:38 PM US Eastern Standard Time, jdnewsum(at)qwest.net writes: > > Looking for advice on installing the top outboard wing skin on a RV6 QB - > specifically where the top wing skin (W-603)and the leading edge skin > (W-601) butt together along the front spar web flange (W-606). > > In the George Orndorf QB construction video, he dimples the skin and > countersinks the wing spar flange. He makes the countersinking the spar > flange part look easy but this looks tricky to me as the flange is only > 0.040 thick and only 1/2 wide (not enough to support the width of the > microstop countersink tool). > > The QB construction manual describes a method that calls for dimpling the > rivet holes in 0.040 spare flange and additionally countersinks the dimple > in the spar flange to slightly deepen it. (If I am reading the manual > correctly) > > Also, should the edge of the W-603 skin along this rivet line need to be > rolled so that it lays down flat? > > Any recommendations (do's or don'ts) advice would be appreciated. > > I had the same problem. Take a piece of .040 or .062 aluminum about 1 by 3 inches and put a hole (about 1/2 inch) near one end of it. Hold this piece of aluminum against the spar and countersink the spar through the hole. This will give you a flat surface for the micro-stop countersink tool. Dan Hopper RV-7A (At the airport for final assembly) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Bending SS hinge pins
Date: May 25, 2004
If you want to bend a tight radius in the pins, a propane torch won't get it hot enough. Find someone with a oxy-propane (these can be bought at any hardware store for 25 bucks or so) or an oxy-acetylene torch. The pin needs to be red, then it will bend easily. Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN RV6-A N66AP 472 hours http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Mckenna" <mmckenna(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: when problems are problems, and when they're not
Date: May 25, 2004
"Stress Without Tears", by Tom Rhoads. http://www.aircraft-spruce.com/catalog/bvpages/php/stress_wotears.php Mike Mckenna -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jeff Cours Subject: RV-List: when problems are problems, and when they're not Can anyone recommend a book on aircraft structural engineering for people whose eyes glaze over when they see greek letters in equations? I don't mean an "acceptable repair methods" kind of thing: I'd really like to be able to visualize the stresses in the airframe, so I can understand why Van designed it the way he did. thanks, Jeff _ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: I gotta Rocket!!!!
Date: May 25, 2004
Why not fly that new rocket down to Rebel's Bluff, and show it off to Les Featherstone? Probably only take a half hour ..... He only had one rocket show up last year at the first annual rocket and rv fly in. It was a real winner. Denis in Denver On May 25, 2004, at 5:58 AM, Doug Rozendaal wrote: > > All, and especially Gummi Bear, > > After years of whining and crying on this list I finally got a Rocket! > Yippee! > > Get in that Bird of yours Gummi Bear and get out here and we will rip > up the > skies and find out who can fly ;-) > > Mark Fredrick is now the proud owner of my SNB-4 (Twin Beech in > laymans > Language) and I have the "Check Six" Rocket. I don't know what the > plan is > for it right now, I've got a freind who wants to buy it. > > What an airplane! > > Tailwinds, > Doug Rozendaal > Rocketeer! > > P.S. Now I have to come up with a new reason to hate Tom Gummo ;-) > (suggestions accepted) > > > _- > ======================================================================= > _- > ======================================================================= > _- > ======================================================================= > _- > ======================================================================= > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Moore, Warren" <Warren.Moore(at)tidelandsoil.com>
Subject: RV-4 elevator to horiz stab fitting problem
Date: May 25, 2004
If I remember correctly, on drawing 5a they give a dimension from the bearing center to the elevator spar. I set my two bearings to this dimension and there was four or more turns showing thru the nutplate. I then attached the elevator to the HS, drilled the center bearing thru the elevator horn, and then made the elevator tips to match the HS. -----Original Message----- From: Richard Stoffel [mailto:rickstoffel(at)sbcglobal.net] Subject: RV-List: RV-4 elevator to horiz stab fitting problem Hello all, This has me stumped and I couldn' t find this exact situation in the archives. . . When fitting my elevators to the HS Stab, I can only rotate the rod end bearings about 3-4 times into the nutplates to make everything fit perfectly. Any more rotations and the elevators begin to move too far forward and the weighted arm sticks out in front of the Horizontal Stab. It seems like a longer version of the HEIM 3614M bearing would be the best choice to solve this but I can't find one (or an equivelant if there is one). I'm guessing 3-4 rotations into the bearing is not enough, is it? Thanks, Rick ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Michael Schipper <mike(at)learningplanet.com>
Subject: Re: I gotta Rocket!!!!
Date: May 25, 2004
For those of us who have joined the list in the past year, could someone please explain the apparent lack of love between RV builders and Rocket builders? Or is this all just in good natured fun? Mike Schipper -9a Wings www.my9a.com On May 25, 2004, at 9:08 AM, Denis Walsh wrote: > > Why not fly that new rocket down to Rebel's Bluff, and show it off to > Les Featherstone? Probably only take a half hour ..... He only had one > rocket show up last year at the first annual rocket and rv fly in. > > It was a real winner. > > Denis in Denver > On May 25, 2004, at 5:58 AM, Doug Rozendaal wrote: > >> >> All, and especially Gummi Bear, >> >> After years of whining and crying on this list I finally got a Rocket! >> Yippee! >> >> Get in that Bird of yours Gummi Bear and get out here and we will rip >> up the >> skies and find out who can fly ;-) >> >> Mark Fredrick is now the proud owner of my SNB-4 (Twin Beech in >> laymans >> Language) and I have the "Check Six" Rocket. I don't know what the >> plan is >> for it right now, I've got a freind who wants to buy it. >> >> What an airplane! >> >> Tailwinds, >> Doug Rozendaal >> Rocketeer! >> >> P.S. Now I have to come up with a new reason to hate Tom Gummo ;-) >> (suggestions accepted) >> >> >> _- >> ====================================================================== >> >> _- >> ====================================================================== >> >> _- >> ====================================================================== >> >> _- >> ====================================================================== >> >>> >> >> > > > _- > ======================================================================= > _- > ======================================================================= > _- > ======================================================================= > _- > ======================================================================= > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com>
Subject: when problems are problems, and when they're not
Date: May 25, 2004
Alex Strojnick did a series of three books on low power laminar flow aircraft design. One of them is "Low Power Laminar Aircraft Structures". I am traveling now and am not 100% sure on that title. All three books are good. I hear "Stress Without Tears" is very good also, but do not have that one yet. Not directly related to your question, but "Simplified Aircraft Design for Homebuilders" by Dan Raymer is an excelent design book, fairly low cost, and doesn't need an engineering degree to understand. www.aircraftdesign.com is Raymer's web site and has all of the above mentioned books for sale. Brian Kraut Engineering Alternatives, Inc. www.engalt.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill Dube Subject: Re: RV-List: when problems are problems, and when they're not > > >Can anyone recommend a book on aircraft structural engineering for >people whose eyes glaze over when they see greek letters in equations? I >don't mean an "acceptable repair methods" kind of thing: I'd really like >to be able to visualize the stresses in the airframe, so I can >understand why Van designed it the way he did. Marks' Mechanical Engineers' Handbook (McGraw-Hill) Older editions of Marks' are better than newer editions, in my opinion. Once you have the basics of beam theory under control, you might wish to get a demo copy of ANSYS. http://www.ansys.com/ansys/designspace.htm You can then see how the stresses actually distribute. You will discover that, near the ends, beams don't behave like anything resembling beam theory. What you will come to realize, is that mechanical (structural) engineering is not nearly as neat and tidy as electrical engineering is. Nearly every project is a tangled ball of twine without a straightforward solution. Unlike electrical components, mechanical components often can't be modeled with simple equations. Electrical engineers moan when faced with transmission line or antenna design because every component effects every other component in a non-linear manner. These non-linear problems are typical for mechanical engineers. You can calculate the voltage and current with great accuracy in every part of a very complex circuit, but you can only take an educated guess as to the stress distribution in a crankshaft. Even with the best stress analysis software, you know the answer is probably no better than plus or minus 10%. Unlike electrical engineers, mechanical engineers are not upset when they cannot have an exact solution. They are not upset with what they know is a crappy solution, as long as they are confident that the solution is within safe bounds and probably won't fail. They are comfortable with a percentage of uncertainty, because they have no choice. Since you are working on a mechanical project, you must cultivate a more relaxed attitude towards an unavoidable degree of uncertainty. Bill Dube' I have a degree in mechanical engineering, and very nearly a degree in electrical engineering, so I am uniquely qualified to understand your dilemma. I can take the persecutive of either (or both) type of engineer. Check out my LED position lights at <http://www.killacycle.com/Lights.htm> ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: I gotta Rocket!!!!
Date: May 25, 2004
From: "Rabaut, Chuck" <Chuck.Rabaut(at)fresnosheriff.org>
Well Mike, you have to realize... "They" ARE, better than "Us" (speaking as an RV-4 guy and wishin' I had a Rocket, but not the added expense). ... and what are you referring to as "good natured fun" ? :-} Chuck -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Michael Schipper Subject: Re: RV-List: I gotta Rocket!!!! For those of us who have joined the list in the past year, could someone please explain the apparent lack of love between RV builders and Rocket builders? Or is this all just in good natured fun? Mike Schipper -9a Wings www.my9a.com On May 25, 2004, at 9:08 AM, Denis Walsh wrote: > > Why not fly that new rocket down to Rebel's Bluff, and show it off to > Les Featherstone? Probably only take a half hour ..... He only had one > rocket show up last year at the first annual rocket and rv fly in. > > It was a real winner. > > Denis in Denver > On May 25, 2004, at 5:58 AM, Doug Rozendaal wrote: > >> >> All, and especially Gummi Bear, >> >> After years of whining and crying on this list I finally got a Rocket! >> Yippee! >> >> Get in that Bird of yours Gummi Bear and get out here and we will rip >> up the >> skies and find out who can fly ;-) >> >> Mark Fredrick is now the proud owner of my SNB-4 (Twin Beech in >> laymans >> Language) and I have the "Check Six" Rocket. I don't know what the >> plan is >> for it right now, I've got a freind who wants to buy it. >> >> What an airplane! >> >> Tailwinds, >> Doug Rozendaal >> Rocketeer! >> >> P.S. Now I have to come up with a new reason to hate Tom Gummo ;-) >> (suggestions accepted) >> >> >> _- >> ====================================================================== >> >> _- >> ====================================================================== >> >> _- >> ====================================================================== >> >> _- >> ====================================================================== >> >>> >> >> > > > _- > ======================================================================= > _- > ======================================================================= > _- > ======================================================================= > _- > ======================================================================= > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Subject: Dynon Pitot
Date: May 25, 2004
I installed mine in the right wing of a 6 right in the middle of the inspection panel. There is a rib that goes through there so I was able to use the plate supplied by Gretz to catch the spar flange and the rib flange. It also allows one to modify the inspection cover rather than the lower wing skin. I did have to bend some joggles in the plate to get it to lay behind the flanges with nut plates, but the center mount area lays flat against the inspection panel. All is installed with flush screws so it comes out easily to get into the wing, or to remove completely. W ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Michael Schipper <mike(at)learningplanet.com>
Subject: Re: I gotta Rocket!!!!
Date: May 25, 2004
Ah, airplane envy. I get that every time I meet someone who actually gets to FLY his airplane. :-) Mike Schipper -9a Wings www.my9a.com On May 25, 2004, at 12:00 PM, Rabaut, Chuck wrote: > > > Well Mike, you have to realize... > > "They" ARE, better than "Us" (speaking as an RV-4 guy and wishin' I > had a Rocket, but not the added expense). > ... and what are you referring to as "good natured fun" ? :-} > Chuck > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Michael > Schipper > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: I gotta Rocket!!!! > > > > > For those of us who have joined the list in the past year, could > someone please explain the apparent lack of love between RV builders > and Rocket builders? Or is this all just in good natured fun? > > Mike Schipper > -9a Wings > www.my9a.com > > > On May 25, 2004, at 9:08 AM, Denis Walsh wrote: > >> >> Why not fly that new rocket down to Rebel's Bluff, and show it off to >> Les Featherstone? Probably only take a half hour ..... He only had >> one >> rocket show up last year at the first annual rocket and rv fly in. >> >> It was a real winner. >> >> Denis in Denver >> On May 25, 2004, at 5:58 AM, Doug Rozendaal wrote: >> >>> >>> >>> All, and especially Gummi Bear, >>> >>> After years of whining and crying on this list I finally got a >>> Rocket! >>> Yippee! >>> >>> Get in that Bird of yours Gummi Bear and get out here and we will rip >>> up the >>> skies and find out who can fly ;-) >>> >>> Mark Fredrick is now the proud owner of my SNB-4 (Twin Beech in >>> laymans >>> Language) and I have the "Check Six" Rocket. I don't know what the >>> plan is >>> for it right now, I've got a freind who wants to buy it. >>> >>> What an airplane! >>> >>> Tailwinds, >>> Doug Rozendaal >>> Rocketeer! >>> >>> P.S. Now I have to come up with a new reason to hate Tom Gummo ;-) >>> (suggestions accepted) >>> >>> >>> _- >>> ===================================================================== >>> >>>>> _- >>> ===================================================================== >>> >>>>> _- >>> ===================================================================== >>> >>>>> _- >>> ===================================================================== >>> >>>>>> >>> >>> >> >> >> _- >> ====================================================================== >> >> _- >> ====================================================================== >> >> _- >> ====================================================================== >> >> _- >> ====================================================================== >> >>> >> >> > > > _- > ======================================================================= > _- > ======================================================================= > _- > ======================================================================= > _- > ======================================================================= > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com>
Subject: Re: I gotta Rocket!!!!
Date: May 25, 2004
For those of us who have joined the list in the past year, could someone please explain the apparent lack of love between RV builders and Rocket builders? Or is this all just in good natured fun? Mike Schipper It is All in good fun! Tom Gummo hates me because I fly Warbirds and I hate him because he has a Rocket. I gotta Rocket now so I have to have a new reason to hate him. Tailwinds, Doug "I Gotta Rocket" Rozendaal John Starn offered this list of good reasons offline but it is worth sharing: #1: You fly very low & fast (seat pucker time) over the desert. Look up to find out Gummibears location only to see him flash by at half your altitude. #2: How many "Top Gun" plaques he's earned. (Too many to count. One from each Sq. on the wall. duplicates are in a box somewhere) #3: How many blades does your prop have ? If it's not five or more, hes gotcha again. #4: He claims the jack rabbits really can jump 25' vertically, that's how he got the fir in the wheel pants. #5: On top of it all he happens to be really GREAT guy. #6: I had to send this off-list because he wouldn't want me to brag on him. Please advise if you need more. 8*) KABONG ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 25, 2004
From: Jeff Cours <rv-j(at)moriarti.org>
Subject: Re: when problems are problems, and when they're not
Thanks for the info, everyone -- I'm developing quite a reading list! Yesterday, I was trying to put a little humor in my message and I think I might've given the wrong impression. I didn't mean to come across as complaining that I screw up too often. Actually, there are a couple things going on here. The first is building. One reason I'm building an airplane because I like to build things. I try not to make mistakes, but I'm a lot more used to working in wood than aluminum, so once in a while a mistake's going to happen. Also, every once in a great while I might come across a part that slipped in tooling or otherwise looks a little odd. When I see a mistake, or there's a strange looking part, I call Van's, find out whether or not it's a problem, and if it is, I replace the part. Some mistakes, like punching an extra hole in a skin, aren't structural problems. Since I'm not out to build a show plane, in that case I probably wouldn't be inclined to order a new skin. On the other hand, if it's a structural or longevity issue, I have no qualms about replacing the part. At the building level, I'm just fine working with Vans' recommendations and AC43-13. The second level is learning. Another reason I'm building an airplane is to learn how an airplane goes together -- and why. That's the level that's pushing me towards the books. When I got my pilots license, I had to learn the basics of how a pitot-static system works, how the fuel system works, etc. Now that I'm building a plane, I want to know the basics of how the structure works. Also, there are some really fundamental questions that've been nagging me, like why stress concentrates. What, mechanically, is going on at a stress riser? And how is it related to work hardening? You know, the kinds of questions you think about when you're deburring the thousandth hole of the day. :-) So, yeah, I probably should just tune the radio to a game and get on with building, but I'll probably wind up ordering some books and slowly working my way through them as I build. Anyway, thanks again for the recommendations! - Jeff ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: I gotta Rocket!!!!
Date: May 25, 2004
GEE THANKS Doug. Now ya went and done it. BUT beware there are those on the lists that think there is no room for humor. Most of my posts are either to share what we learned in building N561FS or to share in the fun of getting to know all those on the lists. Most times I have my tongue shoved so far into my cheek that it wraps around my eye teeth so I can't see what I'm saying. IMNSHO HRII is just another form of an RV. I like them all and the people who build/fly them. Our hanger is always open. KABONG Do Not Archive 8*) > > > For those of us who have joined the list in the past year, could > someone please explain the apparent lack of love between RV builders > and Rocket builders? Or is this all just in good natured fun? > > Mike Schipper > > > It is All in good fun! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 25, 2004
From: Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com>
Subject: Re: [RV10] Re: Landing Lights
rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com, RV10(at)yahoogroups.com Should be at least 25% brighter than my Halogens, probably more, quite a but less heat, and half the current draw... I should know more in a week or two... -Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Lauritsen" <mike(at)cleavelandtool.com> Subject: [RV10] Re: Landing Lights How does the light output and heat compare to your originals? Thanks, Mike On 05/24 10:09, Bill VonDane wrote: > I will have HID's (25w HID / Metal Halide lamps) available soon that > will fit in the same space my current Halogen lamps... [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] http://us.click.yahoo.com/Z1wmxD/DREIAA/yQLSAA/1yWplB/TM <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV10/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: RV10-unsubscribe(at)yahoogroups.com http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Andy Karmy <andy(at)karmy.com>
Subject: Electronic Ignition Problem?
Date: May 25, 2004
Let me start with my base assumption. I was under the impression that electronic ignition worked better than mags under all conditions. Less or no RPM drop at mag check time, better burn, quicker start, etc etc etc. So far so good? What I see: At 1800 rpm doing mag check, both the electronic ign and the mag give equal drops in RPM. In flight at hi-cruise if I switch off the mag I get VERY rough running, with backfire pop of unburned fuel until I switch the mag back on. Turning off the electronic ign the mag works fine by itself with a slight RPM drop. What's going on here? My setup: 0-320-D2A Carb based, 1 Slick, 1 Jeff Rose Electro-Air with mag hole sensor Conditions of test: 2550 RPM 26.0 MAP 60 OAT 107 Carb Temp 350 CHT 1366 EGT 18 deg Advance on Electronic ign 10.7 GPH 3500FT ALT - Andy Karmy RV9A Seattle WA andy(at)karmy.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 25, 2004
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Party time / Dishwasher parts cleaning for acid etch & alodine
The following may be such common knowledge that no one has bothered to talk about it, but I found nothing in the archives. I hope some new guy finds the info useful. I remember someone on some list somewhere joking about sneaking parts into the dishwasher for cleaning before etch/alodine. After a couple of tiring & inconsistently effective sessions with the Dawn dishwashing detergent & a scotchbrite pad, I decided to try it. With my wife's blessing I loaded up the family dishwasher with ribs (even the -7's main wing ribs fit), stiffeners, etc. & threw in some fuel tank plumbing parts for good measure. Cleaning chemical was standard Electro Sol dishwashing detergent. In a word, Awesome! No muss, no fuss, just load up anything that will fit & don your rubber gloves to unload the washer when it's finished doing its thing. If you could fit the whole plane in there, you could alodine & have a perfect gold finish with no blotches, runs, or missed spots, & if you care for gold, a virtually weightless paint job to boot. If anyone knows of a downside to this, please speak up now. (Obviously, lack of support or at least indifference from your spouse is one downside, but I'm talking a/c safety issues, not domestic tranquility issues.) The only side effect I noticed was that one pretty blue a/c quality nut for the tank plumbing came out looking like it went in, and another lost almost all its 'blue'. (?) Charlie Getting 'tanked' & getting ready to serve BBQ on June 5 here at Slobovia Outernational in Mississippi. Ya'll come. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 25, 2004
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Party time / Dishwasher parts cleaning for acid etch & alodine
The following may be such common knowledge that no one has bothered to talk about it, but I found nothing in the archives. I hope some new guy finds the info useful. I remember someone on some list somewhere joking about sneaking parts into the dishwasher for cleaning before etch/alodine. After a couple of tiring & inconsistently effective sessions with the Dawn dishwashing detergent & a scotchbrite pad, I decided to try it. With my wife's blessing I loaded up the family dishwasher with ribs (even the -7's main wing ribs fit), stiffeners, etc. & threw in some fuel tank plumbing parts for good measure. Cleaning chemical was standard Electro Sol dishwashing detergent. In a word, Awesome! No muss, no fuss, just load up anything that will fit & don your rubber gloves to unload the washer when it's finished doing its thing. If you could fit the whole plane in there, you could alodine & have a perfect gold finish with no blotches, runs, or missed spots, & if you care for gold, a virtually weightless paint job to boot. If anyone knows of a downside to this, please speak up now. (Obviously, lack of support or at least indifference from your spouse is one downside, but I'm talking a/c safety issues, not domestic tranquility issues.) The only side effect I noticed was that one pretty blue a/c quality nut for the tank plumbing came out looking like it went in, and another lost almost all its 'blue'. (?) Charlie Getting 'tanked' & getting ready to serve BBQ on June 5 here at Slobovia Outernational in Mississippi. Ya'll come. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 25, 2004
From: Art Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net>
Subject: Re: Party time / Dishwasher parts cleaning for acid etch
& alodine I cleaned my C-85 in the dishwasher about 20 years ago and mentioned it on this list. I might be the guy you were referring to. The grease inside an engine is no worse and possibly less in quantity than that on dishes. Every nook and cranny comes out clean. Art Glaser Charlie England wrote: > >The following may be such common knowledge that no one has bothered to >talk about it, but I found nothing in the archives. I hope some new guy >finds the info useful. > >I remember someone on some list somewhere joking about sneaking parts >into the dishwasher for cleaning before etch/alodine. After a couple of >tiring & inconsistently effective sessions with the Dawn dishwashing >detergent & a scotchbrite pad, I decided to try it. With my wife's >blessing I loaded up the family dishwasher with ribs (even the -7's main >wing ribs fit), stiffeners, etc. & threw in some fuel tank plumbing >parts for good measure. Cleaning chemical was standard Electro Sol >dishwashing detergent. > >In a word, Awesome! No muss, no fuss, just load up anything that will >fit & don your rubber gloves to unload the washer when it's finished >doing its thing. If you could fit the whole plane in there, you could >alodine & have a perfect gold finish with no blotches, runs, or missed >spots, & if you care for gold, a virtually weightless paint job to boot. > >If anyone knows of a downside to this, please speak up now. > >(Obviously, lack of support or at least indifference from your spouse is >one downside, but I'm talking a/c safety issues, not domestic >tranquility issues.) > >The only side effect I noticed was that one pretty blue a/c quality nut >for the tank plumbing came out looking like it went in, and another lost >almost all its 'blue'. (?) > >Charlie >Getting 'tanked' & getting ready to serve BBQ on June 5 here at Slobovia >Outernational in Mississippi. Ya'll come. > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Electronic Ignition Problem?
Date: May 25, 2004
Andy, Have you checked your wire terminal ends at the spark plug? I know that Jeff's system is very susceptible to misfires if the ends are not properly done. And it's not easy to get them right in my opinion. As you know, he says to insert the little spring end into the wire end next to the spiral core. The trick is keep the inserted spring wire next to the center core. There will be a tendency for the spring end to wander towards the outside of the wire away from the core center. If this happens, you will get misfires evidenced by small black dots inside the spark plug on the ceramic insulator material. Look inside all of your plugs and where you see the tell-tale back dots, you need to re-work the little spring ends. I have found that if you carefully insert the end parallel to the core, you can actually feel the wire rubbing against the center core as you insert the spring. Go slow and deliberate and you will get them right. Once you get these ends right your problems will disappear. Hope this helps. Pat Hatch RV-4 RV-6 RV-7 All Flying Vero Beach, FL ----- Original Message ----- From: "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com> Subject: RV-List: Electronic Ignition Problem? > > Let me start with my base assumption. I was under the impression that > electronic ignition worked better than mags under all conditions. Less > or no RPM drop at mag check time, better burn, quicker start, etc etc > etc. So far so good? > > What I see: > > At 1800 rpm doing mag check, both the electronic ign and the mag give > equal drops in RPM. In flight at hi-cruise if I switch off the mag I > get VERY rough running, with backfire pop of unburned fuel until I > switch the mag back on. Turning off the electronic ign the mag works > fine by itself with a slight RPM drop. What's going on here? > > My setup: 0-320-D2A Carb based, 1 Slick, 1 Jeff Rose Electro-Air with > mag hole sensor > > Conditions of test: > > 2550 RPM > 26.0 MAP > 60 OAT > 107 Carb Temp > 350 CHT > 1366 EGT > 18 deg Advance on Electronic ign > 10.7 GPH > 3500FT ALT > > > - Andy Karmy > RV9A Seattle WA > andy(at)karmy.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net>
Subject: Re: Electronic Ignition Problem?
Date: May 25, 2004
Andy, it sounds to me like you got a spark problem from the EI. This should be discussed with Jeff Rose to find the source. It could be the plug wires, or how the tips are installed. Maybe a timing thing. Do you have the meter that shows the degrees of advance? Something is very wrong and it should be addressed IMHO. Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp (not flying yet, but getting closer) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com> Subject: RV-List: Electronic Ignition Problem? > > Let me start with my base assumption. I was under the impression that > electronic ignition worked better than mags under all conditions. Less > or no RPM drop at mag check time, better burn, quicker start, etc etc > etc. So far so good? > > What I see: > > At 1800 rpm doing mag check, both the electronic ign and the mag give > equal drops in RPM. In flight at hi-cruise if I switch off the mag I > get VERY rough running, with backfire pop of unburned fuel until I > switch the mag back on. Turning off the electronic ign the mag works > fine by itself with a slight RPM drop. What's going on here? > > My setup: 0-320-D2A Carb based, 1 Slick, 1 Jeff Rose Electro-Air with > mag hole sensor > > Conditions of test: > > 2550 RPM > 26.0 MAP > 60 OAT > 107 Carb Temp > 350 CHT > 1366 EGT > 18 deg Advance on Electronic ign > 10.7 GPH > 3500FT ALT > > > - Andy Karmy > RV9A Seattle WA > andy(at)karmy.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 25, 2004
From: Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net>
Subject: Sliding Canopy Instruction Question?
The instructions say: Before you do anthing else, determine and mark which holes will receive rivets directly, and which one will contact dimpled aluminum... Is this just because the one that will cantact dimpled aluminum will be countersunk deeper? I think this means that the only holes that will receive rivets directly are the ones on the frt. bow. does this sound right? -- Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/ RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 25, 2004
From: Gert <gert(at)execpc.com>
rv-list
Subject: unsolicited email from SportFlyingShop.com
Anybody else getting unsolicited email from www.SportFlyingShop.com after visiting their website. I am pretty sure I did NOT sign up for anything, just had a brief look after I read an email here on the list. Darn anyoing, I know I won't visit their site anymore. Gert -- is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 25, 2004
From: Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov>
Subject: Interesting LED position lights on Ebay
I noticed that someone is selling LED position lights on Ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2479464181&category=26438 Quite a bit more money than the LED Position Light kits that I sell: http://www.killacycle.com/Lights.htm Has anyone seen the ones on Ebay in person? Anyone know anything about them? Bill Dube' ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 25, 2004
From: PSPRV6A(at)aol.com (by way of Matt Dralle <nospam(at)matronics.com>)
Subject: Re: RV7 Vibration
RV7 Vibration This happened 27years ago but might be pertinent: My brother & I purchased a spanking new 172 and found everything OK except for engine-speed vibration. Balancing the prop made almost no improvement. We took the prop off & brought it to Maxwell Prop Shop here in the twin cities. They found that the BLADE WIDTH (chord) was different by 1/8", causing more lift on one blade than the other. That gives an unbalanced rotating force vector! Maxwell corrected this and smoothness went from quite poor to exceptional! This should be considered before giving up! Still just as smooth after 27 years! Paul S. Petersen, RV6A with son Eric, 90%done ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com>
Subject: Re: Interesting LED position lights on Ebay
Date: May 25, 2004
they look pretty cool -Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Dube" <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov> Subject: RV-List: Interesting LED position lights on Ebay I noticed that someone is selling LED position lights on Ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2479464181&category=26438 Quite a bit more money than the LED Position Light kits that I sell: http://www.killacycle.com/Lights.htm Has anyone seen the ones on Ebay in person? Anyone know anything about them? Bill Dube' ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave & Darlene" <dnimigon(at)telusplanet.net>
Subject: Aluminum
Date: May 25, 2004
Hi All 'm in the process of getting together metal, etc for my XL. I live in Alberta, just west of Edmonton. I'm looking for a builder who might have some extra metal kicking around. I realize there are many different sizes of angles,sheeting that we need. I can access the most common, but there are some that can only be ordered by the 4x12 sheet. Most of the sheet is never needed and there seems to be much left over. I would be willing to pay fair price plus shipping. I just think this would be a lettle more less expensive then buying a whole sheet or a long length of angle only to use a small piece of it. It would probably only be worthwhile getting this from a canadian as shipping cross the border can get expensive. Any thoughts from the group are welcome. Dave dnimigon(at)telusplanet.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com>
Subject: Electronic Ignition Problem?
Date: May 25, 2004
I suggest a call to Jef Rose. He will gladly walk you through diagnosing this. Sounds like a loose wire or timing pickup offset but Jeff will be able to get you sorted out. We have the Jeff Rose system and on mag check, we get drop on mag and basically no drop on EI only (the EI is dominating carrying the load so to speak. James > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Andy Karmy > Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2004 4:58 PM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Electronic Ignition Problem? > > > Let me start with my base assumption. I was under the impression that > electronic ignition worked better than mags under all conditions. Less > or no RPM drop at mag check time, better burn, quicker start, etc etc > etc. So far so good? > > What I see: > > At 1800 rpm doing mag check, both the electronic ign and the mag give > equal drops in RPM. In flight at hi-cruise if I switch off the mag I > get VERY rough running, with backfire pop of unburned fuel until I > switch the mag back on. Turning off the electronic ign the mag works > fine by itself with a slight RPM drop. What's going on here? > > My setup: 0-320-D2A Carb based, 1 Slick, 1 Jeff Rose Electro-Air with > mag hole sensor > > Conditions of test: > > 2550 RPM > 26.0 MAP > 60 OAT > 107 Carb Temp > 350 CHT > 1366 EGT > 18 deg Advance on Electronic ign > 10.7 GPH > 3500FT ALT > > > - Andy Karmy > RV9A Seattle WA > andy(at)karmy.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Electronic Ignition Problem?
Date: May 25, 2004
Double check your timing. Once upon a time I had a similar problem that was caused by incorrect timing on the EI. KB ----- Original Message ----- From: "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> Subject: RE: RV-List: Electronic Ignition Problem? > > I suggest a call to Jef Rose. > > He will gladly walk you through diagnosing this. > > Sounds like a loose wire or timing pickup offset but Jeff will be able to > get you sorted out. > > We have the Jeff Rose system and on mag check, we get drop on mag and > basically no drop on EI only (the EI is dominating carrying the load so to > speak. > > James > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Andy Karmy > > Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2004 4:58 PM > > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > > Subject: RV-List: Electronic Ignition Problem? > > > > > > > > Let me start with my base assumption. I was under the impression that > > electronic ignition worked better than mags under all conditions. Less > > or no RPM drop at mag check time, better burn, quicker start, etc etc > > etc. So far so good? > > > > What I see: > > > > At 1800 rpm doing mag check, both the electronic ign and the mag give > > equal drops in RPM. In flight at hi-cruise if I switch off the mag I > > get VERY rough running, with backfire pop of unburned fuel until I > > switch the mag back on. Turning off the electronic ign the mag works > > fine by itself with a slight RPM drop. What's going on here? > > > > My setup: 0-320-D2A Carb based, 1 Slick, 1 Jeff Rose Electro-Air with > > mag hole sensor > > > > Conditions of test: > > > > 2550 RPM > > 26.0 MAP > > 60 OAT > > 107 Carb Temp > > 350 CHT > > 1366 EGT > > 18 deg Advance on Electronic ign > > 10.7 GPH > > 3500FT ALT > > > > > > - Andy Karmy > > RV9A Seattle WA > > andy(at)karmy.com > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 25, 2004
From: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Re: RV7 Vibration
At 18:57 2004-05-25, you wrote: >) > > RV7 Vibration >This happened 27years ago but might be pertinent: My brother & I purchased >a spanking new 172 and found everything OK except for engine-speed >vibration. Balancing the prop made almost no improvement. We took the >prop off & brought it to Maxwell Prop Shop here in the twin cities. > They found that the BLADE WIDTH (chord) was different by 1/8", causing >more lift on one blade than the other. That gives an unbalanced rotating >force vector! Maxwell corrected this and smoothness went from quite poor >to exceptional! This should be considered before giving up! Still just as >smooth after 27 years! > Paul S. >Petersen, RV6A with son Eric, 90%done I found this same problem on a wood prop that originally came with my RV-4. I spent many hours trying to balance the prop then discovered one blade was smaller than the other when it balanced. Never could get the vibs out of that prop. It's now a wall ornament and part time test club. Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR 13B in gestation mode, RD-1C, EC-2 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Walker" <ron(at)walker.net>
Subject: Re: Interesting LED position lights on Ebay
Date: May 25, 2004
At $350, no wonder there are no bids. I've installed your lights ... and show them off at every opportunity. Always gets interest. Ron You doing a white tail light anytime soon ? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Dube" <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov> Subject: RV-List: Interesting LED position lights on Ebay > > I noticed that someone is selling LED position lights on Ebay: > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2479464181&category=26438 > > Quite a bit more money than the LED Position Light kits that I sell: > http://www.killacycle.com/Lights.htm > > Has anyone seen the ones on Ebay in person? Anyone know anything about them? > > Bill Dube' > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 26, 2004
From: Warren Hurd <warren(at)ahyup.com>
Subject: Re: Interesting LED position lights on Ebay
The 1 watt Luxeon Star LED is bright, they also have three and five watt LED's. I have bought a couple of flashlights with the Luxeon LED's They are truly amazing. I have thought of using a series of them for landing lights. A series of three watt LED arrays in the leading edge would give 648 lumens, and a retro fighter effect. Then a low level run with the "guns" a blazing would make quite an effect. LED's unlike HID's can blink very fast. Here is a link to a flashlight with the type of optic I was considering. http://elektrolumens.com/Tri_Star_Phazer/Tri-Star-Phazer.html Warren 90454 htttp://ahyup.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com>
Subject: Re: Interesting LED position lights on Ebay
Date: May 26, 2004
I probably have more hours into developing LED landing lights than about anybody out there. I have run a lot of light level tests and tried about every kind of optic there is including some custom made optics. I have found that the Luxeon's numbers don't quite add up. The problem is that they don't dissipate heat effectively from the die to the heat sink and the light level drops off dramaticaly as soon as the die temperature comes up, whis is almost instantly. When you do a lot of testing you also find that the 3 and 5W Luxeons don't really give a much brighter beam than the 1W, again because of the temperature problems. The Luxeon looks bright until you turn it off and then turn on a GE 4509 100W landing light. That is when you realize that the Luxeon isn't even in the same league as the GE bulb. I compared an array of nine Luxeons with CAD Research reflectors against the GE. I am currently working with some newer LED technologies that show some promise. I have 30 or 40 1W Luxeon stars if anyone wants them for $5.00 each, minimum quantity 5. In the meantime, take a look at my fiber optic instrument lights at www.engalt.com/aviation.htm. I have recently changed to a much brighter LED light source. I am buying a special LED from Korea with four LED dice in one package. The current draw is now 75mA and the light source is under half the size. I have not had a chance to take new pictures and put them on the web site yet. Wicks also carries them and will have the newer light sources in a few days. http://www.jpmaircraftinstruments.com also has them. Brian Kraut Engineering Alternatives, Inc. www.engalt.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Warren Hurd Subject: RV-List: Re: Interesting LED position lights on Ebay The 1 watt Luxeon Star LED is bright, they also have three and five watt LED's. I have bought a couple of flashlights with the Luxeon LED's They are truly amazing. I have thought of using a series of them for landing lights. A series of three watt LED arrays in the leading edge would give 648 lumens, and a retro fighter effect. Then a low level run with the "guns" a blazing would make quite an effect. LED's unlike HID's can blink very fast. Here is a link to a flashlight with the type of optic I was considering. http://elektrolumens.com/Tri_Star_Phazer/Tri-Star-Phazer.html Warren 90454 htttp://ahyup.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 26, 2004
From: GB <microsys(at)alltel.net>
Subject: rv-8 seats for sale
Hello, Posting for a friend: front and back seats for an RV-8, used less than 40 hours. Vinyl construction, light gray, excellent condition. Selling because upgraded to leather. $150 plus shipping. please respond to: skykingrv8(at)mchsi.com Thanks, Glen Moultrie, GA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 26, 2004
From: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson(at)consolidated.net>
Subject: Re: Interesting LED position lights on Ebay
Bill Dube wrote: > > I noticed that someone is selling LED position lights on Ebay: > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2479464181&category=26438 > > Quite a bit more money than the LED Position Light kits that I sell: > http://www.killacycle.com/Lights.htm > > Has anyone seen the ones on Ebay in person? Anyone know anything about them? > > Bill Dube' I have yours and I like the lite yours puts out better. Even the pictures of yours and the EBAY ones shows yours to have a better concentration of light in all directions. plus the fact that the cost of his would buy four or five sets of yours... Phil ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ross Schlotthauer" <rv7maker(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: when problems are problems, and when they're not
Date: May 26, 2004
Jeff, If you want a good broad based understanding of all structures that isn't too technical, I would recommend "Structures: Or, Why Things Don't Fall Down". You can get it from Amazon for about 13 bucks. The ISBN = 0306801515. I think you would enjoy reading it and it may help you to understand some of the basic stuctural theories. -Ross Schlotthauer RV-7 wiring www.experimentalair.com >From: Jeff Cours <rv-j(at)moriarti.org> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: when problems are problems, and when they're not >Date: Mon, 24 May 2004 11:53:30 -0700 > > >As I've been building this airplane, every few hours I run into >something that's wrong. Maybe it's a rivet that's too close to the edge, >maybe a place where I goofed and trimmed something to the wrong >dimensions, and so on. > >When that happens, I e-mail Van's with a description of the thing, and >sometimes a small picture, and get a prompt, helpful answer. Sometimes >that answer is "it's fine, don't worry about it", and sometimes it's >"yep, better replace it". Either answer is great 'cause it gets me back >on track with the building. > >However, there's a problem. The problem is that I'm an engineer. > >Like most engineers, it really starts to bug me to work on something I >don't understand. Unfortunately, I learned electrical and computer >engineering, not aircraft structural engineering. That means my math's >pretty weak and I couldn't calculate beam stresses to save my life. > >Right now, I'm getting this great practical education in what's right >and what's wrong -- I goof, I find out if it's OK or not, and I learn -- >but an airplane is pretty complicated. At this rate it's going to take >me 'till the next century of flight to screw up enough to understand >this beast. > >Can anyone recommend a book on aircraft structural engineering for >people whose eyes glaze over when they see greek letters in equations? I >don't mean an "acceptable repair methods" kind of thing: I'd really like >to be able to visualize the stresses in the airframe, so I can >understand why Van designed it the way he did. > >thanks, >Jeff > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: May 26, 2004
Subject: Re: when problems are problems, and when they're not
Hi Jeff, I too am an engineer. Imagine this: I started life as a mechanic. I was putting new hubs in bicycle wheels in grade school. You know, with all the spokes removed. Worked on cars (self taught) -- was rebuilding friends transmissions (in the mid 50s) when I was 13. When it was time to go to college I went into EE because I thought mechanical engineering was too simple! Of course, now I know better. But, it is interesting to read your posts because that's how I think too. I spent 8 years of my life racing stock cars and trying to figure out how the "hillbillies" (no offense to anyone) could go just as fast as an engineer! College educated engineers tend to think "in the box!" I recently talked to a college student who was taking a course called "Thinking out of the box." I told her that it was my impression that colleges were there to teach everyone to think alike. Quite a dilemma! Dan Hopper RV-7A (Engineered by Vans -- built by an engineer!) In a message dated 5/25/04 1:47:14 PM US Eastern Standard Time, rv-j(at)moriarti.org writes: > > Thanks for the info, everyone -- I'm developing quite a reading list! > > Yesterday, I was trying to put a little humor in my message and I think > I might've given the wrong impression. I didn't mean to come across as > complaining that I screw up too often. Actually, there are a couple > things going on here. > > The first is building. > > One reason I'm building an airplane because I like to build things. I > try not to make mistakes, but I'm a lot more used to working in wood > than aluminum, so once in a while a mistake's going to happen. Also, > every once in a great while I might come across a part that slipped in > tooling or otherwise looks a little odd. When I see a mistake, or > there's a strange looking part, I call Van's, find out whether or not > it's a problem, and if it is, I replace the part. Some mistakes, like > punching an extra hole in a skin, aren't structural problems. Since I'm > not out to build a show plane, in that case I probably wouldn't be > inclined to order a new skin. On the other hand, if it's a structural or > longevity issue, I have no qualms about replacing the part. > > At the building level, I'm just fine working with Vans' recommendations > and AC43-13. > > The second level is learning. > > Another reason I'm building an airplane is to learn how an airplane goes > together -- and why. That's the level that's pushing me towards the > books. When I got my pilots license, I had to learn the basics of how a > pitot-static system works, how the fuel system works, etc. Now that I'm > building a plane, I want to know the basics of how the structure works. > > Also, there are some really fundamental questions that've been nagging > me, like why stress concentrates. What, mechanically, is going on at a > stress riser? And how is it related to work hardening? You know, the > kinds of questions you think about when you're deburring the thousandth > hole of the day. :-) > > So, yeah, I probably should just tune the radio to a game and get on > with building, but I'll probably wind up ordering some books and slowly > working my way through them as I build. > > Anyway, thanks again for the recommendations! > > - Jeff > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 26, 2004
From: Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov>
Subject: Re: Interesting LED position lights on Ebay
> >I have yours and I like the lite yours puts out better. Even the pictures >of yours and the EBAY >ones shows yours to have a better concentration of light in all directions. It is always hard to judge via pictures alone. That is why I asked if anyone had seen them in person. There are very specific FAA requirements for the light output at each angle along the horizon as well as in elevation. Looking at the picture (and knowing the specs on the Luxeon units) I'm not convinced that this fellow's lights meets the FAA requirements, especially at the extreme angles. Again, I have made no measurements, so I can't know for sure. I was hoping someone on the list had actually seen these units first hand. Apparently not. > plus the fact that >the cost of his would buy four or five sets of yours... That is nice of you to say, but you could buy just 3 sets of of mine for the price of his. :-) Actually, if you bought three sets all at once, I'd give you a discount! Bill Dube' http://www.killacycle.com/Lights.htm ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com>
Subject: Questions For An Overhaul Shop
Date: May 26, 2004
Hi all, So much for having TOO much fun in the Bahamas last month. After I got home from the trip, I changed the oil and found metal in the oil filter. 950 TTSN, in 3 years. Lycoming confirmed it was bearing material. %$#@!!! There were no symptoms during the last flights, such as low oil pressure (75psi warm) or vibration. I had just finished flying 45 hrs in the previous 2 weeks, with nothing in the filter on the last oil change. At this point I'm not interested in doing the overhaul myself, even assisted, so I'm looking for a shop to do an overhaul to get back flying. Right now I've got some shops in my mind (including Aero Sport) but I'm not quite sure how to approach them. How do I approach these companies to compare prices to get an "apples to apples comparison. I'm sure they'd want to look at the engine before making any quote. I can't send them all the engine. I want to make sure I look around to get a warm fuzzy when I end up sending it someone and parting with the next 5 years of my expendable income. Would asking them for a quote on their labor costs for a "standard" (whatever that is) overhaul would be the right way to do it?. Or a quote on an overhaul with all parts assumed good, like crankcase, crank, cam, pistons and cylinders. (I know that there will be some components that'll need replacing, but with a 1000hr motor since new, there should be a lot of good parts, except what has been damaged from the bearing giving up.) Any other ideas? Since this is the first experience with this kind of experience, any suggestions would be welcomed. TIA, Laird RV-6 SoCal ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 26, 2004
From: Hal / Carol Kempthorne <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Questions For An Overhaul Shop
At 11:50 AM 5/26/2004, you wrote: > >After I got home from the trip, I changed the oil and found metal in >the oil filter. 950 TTSN, in 3 years. Lycoming confirmed it was >bearing material. %$#@!!! Laird, I'll give you some suggestions but you have to realize that while I've overhauled more than 200 engines, none of them were aircraft. First, the Lyc is composed of three 'sections'. The bottom end, the top end and the accessory case. Do all of these need overhaul? Check first for compressions. If they are good then maybe the bottom is all that is really needed, especially since this engine is first run. Usually, cylinders give out first don't they? Poor compression, burning oil etc are usual reasons for overhaul from what I hear. Why is yours different? Could it be due to frisky flying? Acro is hard on crankshaft bearings so engines that do acro need bottom end work first. I assume you have been good about changing oil, flying regularly etc. If your cylinders chck out good then I would select a shop that others have been satisfied with and talk to them about your special situation. If cylinders are also weak you might as well shop for a full overhaul. There are two kinds of overhauls (maybe more?). One is described as "to new limits" and the other is "to service limits". I suspect you will want the former which is also more expensive. K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now. PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 24, 2004
From: Bob <panamared3(at)brier.net>
Subject: Re; Electrical failure, was All Glass
>Ok Bob, you have my curiosity aroused, all glass --- Bob's Z -.XX wiring ?? > >How did the total electrical failure occur? > >George in Langley George and All It is funny how you remember things. I usually remember the good things, in this case a successful landing, and then I forget the bad things, like what caused it. So it has taken some thought to reconstruct, but here goes: 1. My electrical system is one of Bob Nuckoll's design. 2. The problems were an intermittent charging system, after a while of flying thinking everything is charging, then getting a low voltage indicator, then at some point around 10 volts the RMI microencoder (all of the flight instruments) quits. 3. Alternator was bench checked by an alternator rebuild shop, and no problems. 4. Put alternator back in aircraft. Seemed to work fine during test flight. 5. A week later took off at night, at uncontrolled airfield, at lift off microencoder went dark. To say it was a total electrical failure is a point of debate. At that time I did not consciously check to see if the radio, transponder, landing lights, strobe lights or nav lights or even the GRT Engine monitor were working. They may or may not have been working, I know that the microencoder drops out at 10 volts, I don't know about everything else. But as far as I was concerned all flight instruments were definitely not working. First priority was to safely fly the aircraft and second priority was to land it. 6. Aircraft safely landed, absolutely no problem in good VFR conditions. 7. I had the alternator rechecked on the bench by a reputable rebuild shop and all OK! 8. I fiddle around with rewiring this and that, and nothing seemed to fix the problem. 9. Finally I bought a rebuilt alternator from Mark Landoll (for about $80) and I have not had the problem since. 10. How did I fix it, I replaced a supposedly good alternator with a rebuilt one!?! 11. This is not an endorsement to fly your aircraft without electrical power or the required instruments. But, if your only options are crashing or flying without electrics and instruments, then do the best you can with what you have. Bob RV6 NightFighter ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 24, 2004
From: Bob <panamared3(at)brier.net>
Subject: Re: Predrilled holes
At 11:16 AM 5/24/04, you wrote: >The real dead giveaway is the bitter builder standing next to it who can't >seem to stop chanting, "I had to drill all the holes!" 8-) I had to drill all the holes, and the next airplane that I build will be plans built. Do they come with predrilled holes, or should I wait a few years before I buy the plans? Bob RV6 NightFighter ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 26, 2004
From: Bob <panamared3(at)brier.net>
Subject: Re: Low Fuel Pressure
<6.0.1.1.0.20040521132943.032b6510(at)mail.brier.net> Some of you really smart guys might be able to help me out on this one. I am getting low fuel pressures during cruise flight. Normal fuel pressures are 22-24 PSI without Aux boost pump and 26-27 PSI with boost pump on. Now without the aux boost pump I get about 10-11 PSI in cruise, I get 24 PSI at takeoff and landing. On the Sunday flight, when I had low pressures I turned on the boost pump and pressures went back to the 24 PSI range. Yesterday, after the PSI dropped, I turned on the boost pump, pressure went back up to normal range, then slowly dropped back to 10-11 PSI. I turned the boost pump off and pressures dropped below 9 PSI. Engine is a IO 360 A1A (180 hp), Bendix fuel injection, and airflow performance boost pump with assembly (fuel return line/check valve) and fuel filter. All this stuff is plumbed according to airflow's instructions. The system has been working fine for the first 150 hours. Since the last annual, it has been acting funny. The only things that I did to the fuel system during the annual was to clean the fuel filter and to clean the finger screen in the fuel servo. My mechanic said to fly and watch it, but I think now I need to do something. Any ideas would be appreciated. Bob RV6 NightFighter ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Huft" <rv8tor(at)lazy8.net>
Subject: Questions For An Overhaul Shop
Date: May 26, 2004
Laird, you should just call Ken Tunnel at Lycon and ask him. In many conversations, I never felt like I was getting anything but the straight scoop from him. Were you running high compression pistons? John -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Laird Owens Subject: RV-List: Questions For An Overhaul Shop Hi all, So much for having TOO much fun in the Bahamas last month. After I got home from the trip, I changed the oil and found metal in the oil filter. 950 TTSN, in 3 years. Lycoming confirmed it was bearing material. %$#@!!! There were no symptoms during the last flights, such as low oil pressure (75psi warm) or vibration. I had just finished flying 45 hrs in the previous 2 weeks, with nothing in the filter on the last oil change. At this point I'm not interested in doing the overhaul myself, even assisted, so I'm looking for a shop to do an overhaul to get back flying. Right now I've got some shops in my mind (including Aero Sport) but I'm not quite sure how to approach them. How do I approach these companies to compare prices to get an "apples to apples comparison. I'm sure they'd want to look at the engine before making any quote. I can't send them all the engine. I want to make sure I look around to get a warm fuzzy when I end up sending it someone and parting with the next 5 years of my expendable income. Would asking them for a quote on their labor costs for a "standard" (whatever that is) overhaul would be the right way to do it?. Or a quote on an overhaul with all parts assumed good, like crankcase, crank, cam, pistons and cylinders. (I know that there will be some components that'll need replacing, but with a 1000hr motor since new, there should be a lot of good parts, except what has been damaged from the bearing giving up.) Any other ideas? Since this is the first experience with this kind of experience, any suggestions would be welcomed. TIA, Laird RV-6 SoCal ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Interesting LED position lights on Ebay
Date: May 27, 2004
From: "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" <F.vanderHulst(at)ucol.ac.nz>
The Hyundai HCD-8 concept car and 2002 Ford Mighty F-350 Tonka concept truck use LEDs for headlights. See http://www.spectrum.ieee.org/WEBONLY/publicfeature/mar04/0304car.html Frank Learn real skills for the real world - Apply online at http://www.ucol.ac.nz or call 0800 GO UCOL (0800 46 8265) or txt free 3388 for more information and make a good move to UCOL Universal College of Learning. Enrol with a public institute and be certain of your future ________________________________________________________________________________
From: George Neal E Capt AU/PC <Neal.George(at)maxwell.af.mil>
Subject: Dimpling nit-niods
Date: May 26, 2004
I see occasional references to special dimple dies for the tank skins. What's the difference standard 3-32 dimple dies and the tank skin dies? Neal RV-7 (emp, fitting tips) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 26, 2004
From: Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Dimpling nit-niods
The dimple is a little larger to compensate for the proseal under the rivet heads - leaving flush heads like normal. Without this the heads will likely protrude a few thousandths above the skin. Dick Tasker George Neal E Capt AU/PC wrote: > >I see occasional references to special dimple dies for the tank skins. >What's the difference standard 3-32 dimple dies and the tank skin dies? > >Neal >RV-7 (emp, fitting tips) > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Dimpling nit-niods
Date: May 26, 2004
>I see occasional references to special dimple dies for the tank skins. >What's the difference standard 3-32 dimple dies and the tank skin dies? > >Neal >RV-7 (emp, fitting tips) The tank dies dimple deeper to allow for sealant under/around the rivet. I didn't use them on my -8 tanks and some of the rivets stood up a bit proud of the skin. The paint job blended them in quite nicely but I think the tank dies would have made for a better finish all around. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD RV10 '51 http://join.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200362ave/direct/01/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Lightspeed Plasma II roughness, just a bad spark plug
Date: May 26, 2004
> > Now the mag has become the 'just get us back home' accessory when the > > electrons go TU. > > Which mine (Lightspeed Plasma II) did yesterday...will provide more info > once I'm done debugging it...pretty sure it's just a very simple > problem...in the process of figuring it out as we email... Turned out to be a bum spark plug. Yesterday, after a couple of hours of flying, I got roughness during runup when running only on the Plasma II. Up until that point (93 hours), the LSI system had been smooth as silk. I figured it might have been plug fouling, so I did my best to lean and clean it out on the ground. No joy. I made the call to fly it home in that condition, essentially putting the onus on the Slick mag. Arguably a risky decision, but I wanted to fly it to see if I could lean & clean it out better in flight. I was very skeptical, though, because I fly normally on the very lean side (usually 50 LOP unless I'm running hard, in which case 75 ROP). I had just flown an hour and a half, leaning aggressively, and I seriously doubted it was fouling. Anyway, I decided to head home. I was in the desert at the time, so viable off-airport landing options were a-plenty... Made it home fine, obviously. During the flight I periodically checked the LSI by switching off the mag, and it continued to run rough. Felt like it was running on 3 cylinders, sputtering and backfiring on one cylinder. EGTs and CHTs didn't really give me any clues that I could pick up on, because I didn't want to run on the LSI-only long enough to determine the EGT trend. Once back at the hangar I removed the top cowl and pulled the plugs. They looked normal. Tan in color, dry as a bone. I checked the gap, and I noticed that the electrodes had eroded a bit and the gap had increased from my original .032" setting to about .036". This shouldn't cause the problem, though. Just for kicks, I regapped 'em to .032" and put the plugs back in. Recowled, started up, ran up, and again the Lightspeed system ran rough. The variables involved could have been the crank position sensor (loose, shifted, etc.), the coils, spark plug wires, the "brain," the RG400 wires running to the coils, etc. I figured if it was the crank sensor, I'd have to pull the prop to double check the clearance with the flywheel magnets. Why not replace the plugs first, just to rule that out? My engine & Plasma II came with Denso W24EMR-C spark plugs, which is what Klaus recommends for the system. He sells those inexpensively, but I tried to find them locally. Good luck! No joy. This morning I spoke with Klaus about it, and he confirmed that it could be any number of the things I mentioned above, and that if I wanted to pop some locally accessible (i.e. at an auto parts store) spark plugs in just to troubleshoot, then the NGK 5422 (BR8ES) or 4221 (BR8ET) plugs would be ok to use. He advised against keeping those in there, though, because he has seen some trouble with NGK spark plugs. He recommended just buying some new Denso plugs from him. Klaus said that he has tried all sorts of different spark plugs but that the W24EMR-C and W27EMR-C (slightly cooler plug) are what he uses on his own plane. I figured I'd give the NGK plugs a shot just to see if plugs were the problem. I drove to Kragen and picked up their last four NGK 5422s, and I also got an inductive timing light while I was there...assuming that if changing the plugs out didn't solve it, the next step would be to check the LSI timing on each cylinder (LSI publishes a decent troubleshooting flow chart on http://www.lightspeedengineering.com). Long story short, replacing the plugs solved the problem. Again the system ran smooth as silk (10 RPM drop during an 1800 RPM runup). I flew up to Santa Paula and bought a new set of Denso spark plugs from Klaus. He had no idea why a plug would go bad, especially if it looked fine and not fouled. Anyway, I guess my real point in all of this is to say that if anybody else is running a Lightspeed ignition on an IO-360, the NGK 5422 (BR8ES) seems like a potentially viable substitute or spare for the Denso W24EMR-C plug, should you ever get stranded and need an "auto parts store" plug in a pinch. I flew 1.7 hours today on the NGKs and didn't fall out of the sky... I'm going to keep the NGKs in my tool bag just in case. Hope this helps, )_( Dan RV-7 N714D http://www.rvproject.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net>
Subject: Re: Predrilled holes
Date: May 26, 2004
Hi Bob, I wouldn't wait, I can't see what use or advantage having all those holes in the plans would be. {[B-)! Happy drilling, Jim in Kelowna ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob" <panamared3(at)brier.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: Predrilled holes > > At 11:16 AM 5/24/04, you wrote: > >The real dead giveaway is the bitter builder standing next to it who can't > >seem to stop chanting, "I had to drill all the holes!" 8-) > > I had to drill all the holes, and the next airplane that I build will be > plans built. Do they come with predrilled holes, or should I wait a few > years before I buy the plans? > > > Bob > RV6 NightFighter > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 26, 2004
From: "Louis Willig <larywil(at)comcast.net>" <6.0.1.1.0.20040521132943.032b6510(at)mail.brier.net>
Subject: Re: Low Fuel Pressure
<6.0.1.1.0.20040521132943.032b6510(at)mail.brier.net> At 04:30 PM 5/26/2004, you wrote: > ><am getting low fuel pressures during cruise flight. Normal fuel pressures >are 22-24 PSI without Aux boost pump and 26-27 PSI with boost pump on. Now >without the aux boost pump I get about 10-11 PSI in cruise>>>, Bob, Sometimes I read posts such as yours and worry about the pilot continuing to fly the plane with a problem such as this. I wouldn't get back into this aircraft until I found the solution or, at least, found a way to check out the problem without killing myself. A few weeks ago I lost all power on take-off at about 500 feet off the ground with no runway available. I was so busy flying, switching tanks and looking for a landing spot that I didn't have a chance to get scared and the adrenaline never did kick in. The problem was fuel starvation from a faulty tank. The switch-over took a few seconds to reestablish fuel flow, but everything went OK. If you have an impending fuel problem, find it before you get into that plane. While some people will disagree with my position, I will take safety over expedience in this situation. Luigi - Louis I Willig 1640 Oakwood Dr. Penn Valley, PA 19072 610 668-4964 RV-4, N180PF 190HP IO-360, C/S prop ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 26, 2004
From: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Dimpling nit-niods
Neal, The tank dies set the dimple .007" deeper than the normal dimple dies. This is to compensate for the film thickness of the ProSeal. Some folks find that using the tank dies only on the under structure (ribs, stiffeners & rear baffle) works best. I used them on my tanks. I had noted a lot of builders who didn't use them, had rivets which stood proud of the skins. My tanks came out very nice. Charlie Kuss > >I see occasional references to special dimple dies for the tank skins. >What's the difference standard 3-32 dimple dies and the tank skin dies? > >Neal >RV-7 (emp, fitting tips) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
Subject: Re: Lightspeed Plasma II roughness, just a bad spark plug
Date: May 26, 2004
Dan, I have run into plugs that were bad right out of the box so it can happen. Tom in Ohio ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> Subject: RV-List: Lightspeed Plasma II roughness, just a bad spark plug > > > > Now the mag has become the 'just get us back home' accessory when the > > > electrons go TU. > > > > Which mine (Lightspeed Plasma II) did yesterday...will provide more info > > once I'm done debugging it...pretty sure it's just a very simple > > problem...in the process of figuring it out as we email... > > Turned out to be a bum spark plug. > > Yesterday, after a couple of hours of flying, I got roughness during runup > when running only on the Plasma II. Up until that point (93 hours), the LSI > system had been smooth as silk. > > I figured it might have been plug fouling, so I did my best to lean and > clean it out on the ground. No joy. I made the call to fly it home in that > condition, essentially putting the onus on the Slick mag. Arguably a risky > decision, but I wanted to fly it to see if I could lean & clean it out > better in flight. I was very skeptical, though, because I fly normally on > the very lean side (usually 50 LOP unless I'm running hard, in which case 75 > ROP). I had just flown an hour and a half, leaning aggressively, and I > seriously doubted it was fouling. Anyway, I decided to head home. I was in > the desert at the time, so viable off-airport landing options were > a-plenty... Made it home fine, obviously. > > During the flight I periodically checked the LSI by switching off the mag, > and it continued to run rough. Felt like it was running on 3 cylinders, > sputtering and backfiring on one cylinder. EGTs and CHTs didn't really give > me any clues that I could pick up on, because I didn't want to run on the > LSI-only long enough to determine the EGT trend. > > Once back at the hangar I removed the top cowl and pulled the plugs. They > looked normal. Tan in color, dry as a bone. I checked the gap, and I > noticed that the electrodes had eroded a bit and the gap had increased from > my original .032" setting to about .036". This shouldn't cause the problem, > though. Just for kicks, I regapped 'em to .032" and put the plugs back in. > Recowled, started up, ran up, and again the Lightspeed system ran rough. > > The variables involved could have been the crank position sensor (loose, > shifted, etc.), the coils, spark plug wires, the "brain," the RG400 wires > running to the coils, etc. I figured if it was the crank sensor, I'd have > to pull the prop to double check the clearance with the flywheel magnets. > Why not replace the plugs first, just to rule that out? > > My engine & Plasma II came with Denso W24EMR-C spark plugs, which is what > Klaus recommends for the system. He sells those inexpensively, but I tried > to find them locally. Good luck! No joy. > > This morning I spoke with Klaus about it, and he confirmed that it could be > any number of the things I mentioned above, and that if I wanted to pop some > locally accessible (i.e. at an auto parts store) spark plugs in just to > troubleshoot, then the NGK 5422 (BR8ES) or 4221 (BR8ET) plugs would be ok to > use. He advised against keeping those in there, though, because he has seen > some trouble with NGK spark plugs. He recommended just buying some new > Denso plugs from him. Klaus said that he has tried all sorts of different > spark plugs but that the W24EMR-C and W27EMR-C (slightly cooler plug) are > what he uses on his own plane. I figured I'd give the NGK plugs a shot just > to see if plugs were the problem. > > I drove to Kragen and picked up their last four NGK 5422s, and I also got an > inductive timing light while I was there...assuming that if changing the > plugs out didn't solve it, the next step would be to check the LSI timing on > each cylinder (LSI publishes a decent troubleshooting flow chart on > http://www.lightspeedengineering.com). > > Long story short, replacing the plugs solved the problem. Again the system > ran smooth as silk (10 RPM drop during an 1800 RPM runup). I flew up to > Santa Paula and bought a new set of Denso spark plugs from Klaus. He had no > idea why a plug would go bad, especially if it looked fine and not fouled. > > Anyway, I guess my real point in all of this is to say that if anybody else > is running a Lightspeed ignition on an IO-360, the NGK 5422 (BR8ES) seems > like a potentially viable substitute or spare for the Denso W24EMR-C plug, > should you ever get stranded and need an "auto parts store" plug in a pinch. > I flew 1.7 hours today on the NGKs and didn't fall out of the sky... I'm > going to keep the NGKs in my tool bag just in case. > > Hope this helps, > )_( Dan > RV-7 N714D > http://www.rvproject.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ross Scroggs" <rv4ross(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: Low Fuel Pressure <6.0.1.1.0.20040521132943.032b6510(at)mail.brier.net>
Date: May 26, 2004
Bob, Make sure your fuel tank vents are working properly, inducing a positive pressure or at least not a negative one. Sounds like your creating a negative pressure in the tank that your drawing fuel from while in flight but not while your on the ground. Just a thought, Ross Scroggs RV4 #3911 Wings Locust Grove, Ga. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob" <panamared3(at)brier.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: Low Fuel Pressure <6.0.1.1.0.20040521132943.032b6510(at)mail.brier.net> > > Some of you really smart guys might be able to help me out on this one. I > am getting low fuel pressures during cruise flight. Normal fuel pressures > are 22-24 PSI without Aux boost pump and 26-27 PSI with boost pump on. Now > without the aux boost pump I get about 10-11 PSI in cruise, I get 24 PSI at > takeoff and landing. On the Sunday flight, when I had low pressures I > turned on the boost pump and pressures went back to the 24 PSI > range. Yesterday, after the PSI dropped, I turned on the boost pump, > pressure went back up to normal range, then slowly dropped back to 10-11 > PSI. I turned the boost pump off and pressures dropped below 9 PSI. > > Engine is a IO 360 A1A (180 hp), Bendix fuel injection, and airflow > performance boost pump with assembly (fuel return line/check valve) and > fuel filter. All this stuff is plumbed according to airflow's > instructions. The system has been working fine for the first 150 > hours. Since the last annual, it has been acting funny. The only things > that I did to the fuel system during the annual was to clean the fuel > filter and to clean the finger screen in the fuel servo. > > My mechanic said to fly and watch it, but I think now I need to do > something. Any ideas would be appreciated. > > Bob > RV6 NightFighter > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MMcs139808(at)aol.com
Date: May 26, 2004
Subject: Re: Lightspeed Plasma II roughness, just a bad spark plug
Dan I have had bad plugs out of the box in the motor (auto) trade on a couple of occasions. Eugene ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Breather Hose
Date: May 27, 2004
Folks, What temp. does the breather hose need to withstand? Thanks, Amit. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Dimpling nit-niods
Date: May 26, 2004
The tank dimple dies create a slightly deeper dimple, presumably to offset the Proseal that will seal the base of the rivet. I have found them useful for other purposes too, such as when you are nesting several dimples. Pat Hatch RV-4 RV-6 RV-7 All Flying Vero Beach, FL ----- Original Message ----- From: "George Neal E Capt AU/PC" <Neal.George(at)maxwell.af.mil> Subject: RV-List: Dimpling nit-niods > > I see occasional references to special dimple dies for the tank skins. > What's the difference standard 3-32 dimple dies and the tank skin dies? > > Neal > RV-7 (emp, fitting tips) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net>
Subject: Re: Breather Hose
Date: May 26, 2004
Hi Amit, Hopefully, the highest temps that the breather hose will have to survive should happen during hot soaking (just after engine shut down). My 'guess' is that temp might reach to the area about 300 + degrees F. for a short while just after shut down. I'm sure others can give a tested result. Oil and chemical resistant hose such as that used for automotive heater hose will stand higher heat than that and stand up quite well and long for the task. As suggested by others before I just hit the auto supply shop and bought a length with lots of pre-formed bends to use with some aluminum tubing to make that hose go where it should. Keep on building, Jim in Kelowna ----- Original Message ----- From: "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan(at)hotmail.com> Subject: RV-List: Breather Hose > > Folks, > What temp. does the breather hose need to withstand? > Thanks, > Amit. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MikeReiman(at)webtv.net (The Reiman Corporation)
Date: May 26, 2004
Subject: Re: Low Fuel Pressure <6.0.1.1.0.20040521132943.032b6510(at)mail.brier.net>
Dear RV6 owner, I'm an A&P....... Get another mechanic if he just tells you,"To watch it". This is what I would do in this order: 1. Swap out or replace fuel caps..... Vent might be clogged in one, and that could be enough to do it. Cheap fix. 2. Call factory service rep., and ask if other's have had this problem and what their fix was. 3. Check the filter element you opened, and look very carefully for any folded over or cracked sealed areas around it. I don't own an RV, but as your basic A&P I hope that helps you. Like to know where you are....? I'm in Florida. Oh, Please let me know of any Grumman Tigers for sale...! That would be great. Soft Landings, Mike Reiman The Reiman Corporation, CEO 2505 South Ocean Boulevard Palm Beach, Florida 33480 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com>
Subject: Re: Breather Hose
Date: May 26, 2004
Not very hot, I used rubber radiator hose sourced from the local auto parts store with no ill effects for 368 hours. Randy Lervold > Folks, > What temp. does the breather hose need to withstand? > Thanks, > Amit. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 26, 2004
From: Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Lightspeed Plasma II roughness, just a bad spark plug
You need to learn to read your EGT's on the engine analyzer. That should show you exactly which cylinder is missing when you do a mag check! If you do a LOP mag check, you should always see a small rise in EGT's when swiching from both mags/EI to one or the other. If you don't get a rise on a particular cylinder, or it drops, you know that one is missing. --- Dan Checkoway wrote: > > > > > Now the mag has become the 'just get us back > home' accessory when the > > > electrons go TU. > > > > Which mine (Lightspeed Plasma II) did > yesterday...will provide more info > > once I'm done debugging it...pretty sure it's just > a very simple > > problem...in the process of figuring it out as we > email... > > Turned out to be a bum spark plug. > > Yesterday, after a couple of hours of flying, I got > roughness during runup > when running only on the Plasma II. Up until that > point (93 hours), the LSI > system had been smooth as silk. > > I figured it might have been plug fouling, so I did > my best to lean and > clean it out on the ground. No joy. I made the > call to fly it home in that > condition, essentially putting the onus on the Slick > mag. Arguably a risky > decision, but I wanted to fly it to see if I could > lean & clean it out > better in flight. I was very skeptical, though, > because I fly normally on > the very lean side (usually 50 LOP unless I'm > running hard, in which case 75 > ROP). I had just flown an hour and a half, leaning > aggressively, and I > seriously doubted it was fouling. Anyway, I decided > to head home. I was in > the desert at the time, so viable off-airport > landing options were > a-plenty... Made it home fine, obviously. > > During the flight I periodically checked the LSI by > switching off the mag, > and it continued to run rough. Felt like it was > running on 3 cylinders, > sputtering and backfiring on one cylinder. EGTs and > CHTs didn't really give > me any clues that I could pick up on, because I > didn't want to run on the > LSI-only long enough to determine the EGT trend. > > Once back at the hangar I removed the top cowl and > pulled the plugs. They > looked normal. Tan in color, dry as a bone. I > checked the gap, and I > noticed that the electrodes had eroded a bit and the > gap had increased from > my original .032" setting to about .036". This > shouldn't cause the problem, > though. Just for kicks, I regapped 'em to .032" and > put the plugs back in. > Recowled, started up, ran up, and again the > Lightspeed system ran rough. > > The variables involved could have been the crank > position sensor (loose, > shifted, etc.), the coils, spark plug wires, the > "brain," the RG400 wires > running to the coils, etc. I figured if it was the > crank sensor, I'd have > to pull the prop to double check the clearance with > the flywheel magnets. > Why not replace the plugs first, just to rule that > out? > > My engine & Plasma II came with Denso W24EMR-C spark > plugs, which is what > Klaus recommends for the system. He sells those > inexpensively, but I tried > to find them locally. Good luck! No joy. > > This morning I spoke with Klaus about it, and he > confirmed that it could be > any number of the things I mentioned above, and that > if I wanted to pop some > locally accessible (i.e. at an auto parts store) > spark plugs in just to > troubleshoot, then the NGK 5422 (BR8ES) or 4221 > (BR8ET) plugs would be ok to > use. He advised against keeping those in there, > though, because he has seen > some trouble with NGK spark plugs. He recommended > just buying some new > Denso plugs from him. Klaus said that he has tried > all sorts of different > spark plugs but that the W24EMR-C and W27EMR-C > (slightly cooler plug) are > what he uses on his own plane. I figured I'd give > the NGK plugs a shot just > to see if plugs were the problem. > > I drove to Kragen and picked up their last four NGK > 5422s, and I also got an > inductive timing light while I was there...assuming > that if changing the > plugs out didn't solve it, the next step would be to > check the LSI timing on > each cylinder (LSI publishes a decent > troubleshooting flow chart on > http://www.lightspeedengineering.com). > > Long story short, replacing the plugs solved the > problem. Again the system > ran smooth as silk (10 RPM drop during an 1800 RPM > runup). I flew up to > Santa Paula and bought a new set of Denso spark > plugs from Klaus. He had no > idea why a plug would go bad, especially if it > looked fine and not fouled. > > Anyway, I guess my real point in all of this is to > say that if anybody else > is running a Lightspeed ignition on an IO-360, the > NGK 5422 (BR8ES) seems > like a potentially viable substitute or spare for > the Denso W24EMR-C plug, > should you ever get stranded and need an "auto parts > store" plug in a pinch. > I flew 1.7 hours today on the NGKs and didn't fall > out of the sky... I'm > going to keep the NGKs in my tool bag just in case. > > Hope this helps, > )_( Dan > RV-7 N714D > http://www.rvproject.com > > > > Contributions > any other > Forums. > > http://www.matronics.com/chat > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > > > > __________________________________ http://messenger.yahoo.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Oldsfolks(at)aol.com
Date: May 26, 2004
Subject: Re: > Re: Breather Hose
I used the same rubber hose as the others and I put abouy 3" of aluminum tubing in the end so I could run it against the exhaust pipe. Within 1/8" anyway. That bakes all the oily fumes to ashes. Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor Charleston,Arkansas Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 26, 2004
From: Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net>
RV-List , OhioValleyRVators(at)yahoogroups.com
Subject: Airplane paintshop
Anyone that is looking for a place to get their plane painted, here is a good one. Kentucky Aircraft Restoration is owned and operated by Toni Renye. I saw the work that he did to a Great Lakes and an RV6 and both were very good. Toni takes pride in his work. He has some of the nicest painting equipment that I have seen. He moved here from Germany, setup his shop in Princeton, Kentucky and has been putting out very good work. He has alot of pictures of his work, that he said he would be willing to send to anyone interested in getting their plane painted at his shop. Anyone that is interested can reach him during day at his shop, he will be happy to answer any of your questions. His shop is a very large hanger located off the north end of Princeton-Caldwell Co. Kentucky airport (2M0) located in the south western corner of Kentucky. I plan on having my RV painted at Toni's shop when the time comes. He will be out of town June 6-12. Kentucky Aircraft Restoration 90 Murray Drive Princeton, KY 42445 Phone: 270-365-1010 Email: kyaircraft(at)vci.net -- Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/ RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 26, 2004
From: Hal / Carol Kempthorne <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Breather Hose
I used auto heater hose but next iteration will be all aluminum tubing - less weight. hal At 06:10 PM 5/26/2004, you wrote: > >Folks, >What temp. does the breather hose need to withstand? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net>
"aeroelectric-list"
Subject: Fw: LED flashlights
Date: May 26, 2004
I know we have some tinkerers on these lists so I thought I should pass on the prompt and kindly reply of Wayne, of Electrolumens.com My e-mail to him is at bottom. Looks like he's had a lot of fun with this sideline (see 2nd link, at bottom of his reply). His prices are a bit high for me, but he also sells parts to hobbyists/tinkerers - so he's not "too proud" or "too proprietary oriented" to help someone. David Carter ----- Original Message ----- From: "Wayne" <elektrolumens(at)verizon.net> Subject: Re: LED flashlights > See this link of a modified flashlight I make, called the Anglelux: > > http://elektrolumens.com/AngleLux/AngleLux.html > > > This light might be good for aviation, as it has the different lens > colors. I make them with a single LED, and with the dual LED > setup. > I do it as it is interesting and provides work for a help of > mine, so he can make a little money too. > > For using LEDs, you just need to pay attention to the voltage > requirements of the LED. For the Luxeon LED, you also need to > pay attention to sinking the heat from the LED. > > In the Anglelux, I use a switch in one model to go from a single to > dual LEDs. It could also be done with a single LED and a switch for > low power/high power, so when you're in a small area or reading a > map, you can cut the power down. > > Just some suggestons. > > I use the genuine Fulton Industries anglehead flashlights in my > Anglelux. I also have some generic ones, which I cannot use. You > can have one for minimal cost, if you want one. They work just as > good, but my customers insist on the American made quality > product. I also have the Fulton Anglheads, if you want one of those, > which you can modify yourself. I normally do not sell the flashlight > like this. I can also throw in the needed heat sink. You'll have to do > the rest. > > Here's a link to flashlights I've modified in the past, for your > amusement: > > http://elektrolumens.com/Modified_Flashlights.html > > > Wayne > ============================================= > On 26 May 2004 at 9:45, David Carter wrote: > > > Your website was mentioned on a home-built aircraft e-mail forum. I > > spent a long time in Wal-Mart last month looking at LED flashlights - > > all but 1 (MagLite) were made in China. I don't buy anything made in > > China. > > > > I'm not in law enforcement or military, so don't need a superbright > > flashlight. However, I am a pilot, fly at night and on instruments, > > so need a flashlight with LONG battery life and just average - or less > > - light "power". > > > > I'd think a single NmH AA or AAA battery ought to power a small LED > > for a "long" time - smaller flashlight is "better" for holding in my > > mouth or velcro'ing to a mounting pad to shine on instrument panel. > > > > Tight beam is probably NOT best for looking at a map or illuminating > > several instruments on the panel. > > > > Any suggestions? I am building my own RV-6 from a kit and am doing > > all my own electrical work and have experience as a flight simulator > > repairman (old tube type thing in 1960), so I have some experience > > soldering and have all the good solder and devices, heat shrink, etc. > > I have saved some e-mails from the Aeroelectric List that tell how to > > size the resistors for any particular LED. Seems like "optics head" > > and the "case & switch" will be the keys to making my own light. I > > have a "bread board" for prototyping from Radio Shack. > > > > Since you seem to be kind enough to make your parts available for the > > "flashlight hobbyist", may I ask if you have any suggestions of parts > > for me to make my own "little flashlight" > > > > I am also a Scoutmaster and family camper. I need a more normal "2 D > > cell" type flashlight for my back pack - and for emergency use in my > > two cars. Is conversion of a std 2 D cell flashlight to LED feasible? > > Any suggestions for parts for thist? > > > > Not trying to take your time away from "real money makers", so hope > > you don't find my questions bothersome. I'll certainly appreciate any > > time you can spare to respond to this. > > > > David Carter > > 409-722-7259 > > dcarter(at)datarecall.net > > 619 S. 16th St. > > Nederland, Texas 77627 > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Danielson" <Jdaniel343(at)bresnan.net>
Subject: Re: I gotta Rocket!!!!
Date: May 26, 2004
Hi Denis, Where is Rebel's Bluff? Thanks ----- Original Message ----- From: "Denis Walsh" <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: I gotta Rocket!!!! > > Why not fly that new rocket down to Rebel's Bluff, and show it off to > Les Featherstone? Probably only take a half hour ..... He only had one > rocket show up last year at the first annual rocket and rv fly in. > > It was a real winner. > > Denis in Denver > On May 25, 2004, at 5:58 AM, Doug Rozendaal wrote: > > > > > All, and especially Gummi Bear, > > > > After years of whining and crying on this list I finally got a Rocket! > > Yippee! > > > > Get in that Bird of yours Gummi Bear and get out here and we will rip > > up the > > skies and find out who can fly ;-) > > > > Mark Fredrick is now the proud owner of my SNB-4 (Twin Beech in > > laymans > > Language) and I have the "Check Six" Rocket. I don't know what the > > plan is > > for it right now, I've got a freind who wants to buy it. > > > > What an airplane! > > > > Tailwinds, > > Doug Rozendaal > > Rocketeer! > > > > P.S. Now I have to come up with a new reason to hate Tom Gummo ;-) > > (suggestions accepted) > > > > > > _- > > ====================================================================== > > _- > > ====================================================================== > > _- > > ====================================================================== > > _- > > ====================================================================== > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 26, 2004
From: Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org>
Subject: Reminder - Langley Fly-in
The Langley (BC) fly-in will be Saturday, June 12, 2004 at Langley Township Regional Airport (CYNJ). Langley is 20 nm north of Bellengham, WA. This is the annual fly-in for Van's Air Force Western Canada Wing. Eustace Bowhay will be giving his always-popular seminar on all things RV. And Gus Funnell, from Van's, will be there, probably with the RV-10. Border crossing for U.S. visitors is quite simple, and you'll find detailed instructions on the Home Wing web site, http://www.edt.com/homewing/international/index.html Come see a whole other world of flying just across the border. The Langley fly-in is also a popular event for builders other than RVers, and this year we're going to have a seminar by Murphy Aircraft, as well as a Murphy booth. There will be camping on the field as well as local hotel accommodation for anyone who wants to stay overnight. You can get all the details on the fly-in web site, at http://www.vansairforce.org/CYNJ/ Tedd McHenry Van's Air Force Western Canada Wing tedd(at)vansairforce.org www.vansairforce.org ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kathleen (rv7)" <Kathleen(at)rv7.us>
Subject: FW: And When the Holes Don't Line Up?
Date: May 26, 2004
In inspecting my QB (7a) fuselage I found that (f706) cabin member has a noticeable bend in it. When it is forced straight, the metal (f652 upper cabin bulkhead) bows out and there isn't any reasonable way to make it all fit. OK, I don't know how to further explain, so there is a picture or two at http://www.rv7.us/daily040516.htm The bottom line is that the pre-punched holes don't line up. I've decided on a fix -- redrill the holes in the back side and move the nutplates. That won't show inside the cabin, but I'm not sure that the problem isn't with the rib (f-706). If it is, it would mean that the outer skin wouldn't fit. Any suggestions on how I can determine where the real culprit is? This is the way it came from Van's. Any ideas? Anyone else have this problem? Kathleen www.rv7.us ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Breather Hose
Date: May 27, 2004
I used top quality, preformed heater hose from NAPA, which I've had excellent service in cars with. However, after two years on the breather line in my 6A, it started to get mushy. I used a 180 degree section to change direction, and then used regular aircraft breather hose. I replaced it with a metal tube I fashioned from some copper plumbing parts. My breather line does see oil, as I fly inverted from time to time. Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN RV6-A N66AP 472 hours http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/ > > Not very hot, I used rubber radiator hose sourced from the > local auto parts store with no ill effects for 368 hours. > > Randy Lervold > > > > Folks, > > What temp. does the breather hose need to withstand? > > Thanks, > > Amit. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <Fred.Stucklen(at)UTCFuelCells.com>
Subject: Re: Electronic Ignition Problem?
Date: May 27, 2004
Andy, I'm assuming that your listed 18 deg advance on the electronic ignition is in addition to the 25 deg base point. If it's not, then you are running the timing very retarded. Otherwise, It sounds like you have a connection problem as what you have described for operation on just the electronic ignition is not typical. Check the connections on all ignition leads first. The leads are resistive, so they should ohm out to somewhere around 10,000 ohms. But if there is a bad connection on either end, the resistance would be much higher or infinite. You might also be picking up some noise in the mag hole pickup device leads. Be sure that none of your ignition leads are near this lead. Also check the to see that your power source is for some reason intermittent. Another area to investigate would be the spark plug gaps. Be sure that they are somewhere near .030 or so....... I have two of Jeff's systems on my RV-6A, and have not had any problems. On a previous RV-6A, I had exactly your installation, and also had no problems (in 2008 Hrs of operation).... I wouldn't fly your plane until you have this problem fixed...... Fred Stucklen RV-6A N926RV Let me start with my base assumption. I was under the impression that electronic ignition worked better than mags under all conditions. Less or no RPM drop at mag check time, better burn, quicker start, etc etc etc. So far so good? What I see: At 1800 rpm doing mag check, both the electronic ign and the mag give equal drops in RPM. In flight at hi-cruise if I switch off the mag I get VERY rough running, with backfire pop of unburned fuel until I switch the mag back on. Turning off the electronic ign the mag works fine by itself with a slight RPM drop. What's going on here? My setup: 0-320-D2A Carb based, 1 Slick, 1 Jeff Rose Electro-Air with mag hole sensor Conditions of test: 2550 RPM 26.0 MAP 60 OAT 107 Carb Temp 350 CHT 1366 EGT 18 deg Advance on Electronic ign 10.7 GPH 3500FT ALT - Andy Karmy RV9A Seattle WA andy(at)karmy.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 27, 2004
From: GB <microsys(at)alltel.net>
Subject: rv8 seats sold
My friend says thanks for the response...the rv8 seats are sold! Glen RV9 wings as soon as they get here Moultrie, GA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 27, 2004
From: UFOBUCK(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: Fw: LED flashlights
In a message dated 5/28/2004 8:34:31 PM Eastern Daylight Time, dcarter(at)datarecall.net writes: > . I don't buy anything made in > > > China DAMN RIGHT !!!!! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: EddyFernan(at)aol.com
Date: May 27, 2004
Subject: Aluminum air vents
I thought the fellow RVers could benefit from my experience. I saw your blurb about the new large aluminum air vents that Van's is selling, and I was about to order them when another builder told me that Affordablepanels.com was selling nicer ones much cheaper. I couldn't make up my mind on which ones to order, so I ordered a pair from Vans, and another one from Affordable Panels. Well, after having seen them both, and I will send back the ones I bought from Van's. I just thought I should let everyone know, so they can get them while they are cheap. Eddy Fernandez In canopy mode RV9a ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 27, 2004
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)excelgeo.com>
Subject: Re: Electronic Ignition Problem?
I just went through this on my last long trip. The symptoms were the same as yours but mine finally died completely so it was easy to trouble shoot. 1. A bad plug will render two cylinders inop since they run on the same coil and both plugs fire at the same time. A wasted spark system. Sort of sucks that one plug will take out two cylinders 2. A bad plug lead will do the same as a bad plug. Usually only surfaces at higher power settings when cylinder pressures are high. 3. A bad hall effect sensor. Check the resistance between the red and black wire. It should be 600-800 ohms. 4. In my case, the red wire for the hall effect sensor failed and was intermittent until it finally hard failed. A quick fix once it was found. Gary Stucklen, Frederic IFC wrote: > >Andy, > > I'm assuming that your listed 18 deg advance on the electronic ignition >is in addition to the 25 deg base point. If it's not, then you are running >the timing very retarded. > Otherwise, It sounds like you have a connection problem as what you have >described for operation on just the electronic ignition is not typical. >Check the connections on all ignition leads first. The leads are resistive, >so they should ohm out to somewhere around 10,000 ohms. But if there is a >bad connection on either end, the resistance would be much higher or >infinite. > You might also be picking up some noise in the mag hole pickup device >leads. Be sure that none of your ignition leads are near this lead. Also >check the to see that your power source is for some reason intermittent. > Another area to investigate would be the spark plug gaps. Be sure that >they are somewhere near .030 or so....... > I have two of Jeff's systems on my RV-6A, and have not had any problems. >On a previous RV-6A, I had exactly your installation, and also had no >problems (in 2008 Hrs of operation).... > I wouldn't fly your plane until you have this problem fixed...... > >Fred Stucklen >RV-6A N926RV > > > Let me start with my base assumption. I was under the impression that > electronic ignition worked better than mags under all conditions. Less > > or no RPM drop at mag check time, better burn, quicker start, etc etc > etc. So far so good? > > What I see: > > At 1800 rpm doing mag check, both the electronic ign and the mag give > equal drops in RPM. In flight at hi-cruise if I switch off the mag I > get VERY rough running, with backfire pop of unburned fuel until I > switch the mag back on. Turning off the electronic ign the mag works > fine by itself with a slight RPM drop. What's going on here? > > My setup: 0-320-D2A Carb based, 1 Slick, 1 Jeff Rose Electro-Air with > mag hole sensor > > Conditions of test: > > 2550 RPM > 26.0 MAP > 60 OAT > 107 Carb Temp > 350 CHT > 1366 EGT > 18 deg Advance on Electronic ign > 10.7 GPH > 3500FT ALT > > > - Andy Karmy > RV9A Seattle WA > andy(at)karmy.com > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: rv8 seats sold
Date: May 27, 2004
I knew that wouldn't last long. Thank you for the heads-up. Bruce >From: GB <microsys(at)alltel.net> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: RV List >Subject: RV-List: rv8 seats sold >Date: Thu, 27 May 2004 08:31:28 -0400 > > >My friend says thanks for the response...the rv8 seats are sold! > >Glen >RV9 wings as soon as they get here >Moultrie, GA > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Nielsen Mark <Mark.Nielsen(at)andritz.com>
Subject: Re: Breather Hose
Date: May 27, 2004
> > Not very hot, I used rubber radiator hose sourced from the local auto parts store > with no ill effects for 368 hours. > > Randy Lervold > > >> Folks, >> What temp. does the breather hose need to withstand? >> Thanks, >> Amit. Initially, I used automotive heater hose for my breather hose. After 200-300 hours the hose started to sweat oil. Not a big problem, other than the hose was grimy to the touch. I replaced it with a hose that was rated for fuel and oil service. (I got the hose at a local speed shop.) I like the new hose a lot better. Mark Nielsen RV-6; 909 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil(at)petrasoft.net>
Subject: Re: FW: And When the Holes Don't Line Up?
Date: May 27, 2004
Have you tried to see how the thing fits with the top skin clecoed on. You may simply need to adjust some of the flutes. Also you could simply drill all the holes in the baggage cover out to #12 instead of #19 and that would probably let it move around enough to get all the screws in. That's easier than trying to move the nutplates. Maybe I am misunderstanding your question. Godspeed, Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Panel http://www.myrv7.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kathleen (rv7)" <Kathleen(at)rv7.us> Subject: RV-List: FW: And When the Holes Don't Line Up? > > > In inspecting my QB (7a) fuselage I found that (f706) cabin member has a > noticeable bend in it. When it is forced straight, the metal (f652 upper > cabin bulkhead) bows out and there isn't any reasonable way to make it all > fit. OK, I don't know how to further explain, so there is a picture or two > at http://www.rv7.us/daily040516.htm The bottom line is that the > pre-punched holes don't line up. I've decided on a fix -- redrill the holes > in the back side and move the nutplates. That won't show inside the cabin, > but I'm not sure that the problem isn't with the rib (f-706). If it is, it > would mean that the outer skin wouldn't fit. Any suggestions on how I can > determine where the real culprit is? This is the way it came from Van's. > Any ideas? Anyone else have this problem? > > Kathleen > www.rv7.us > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ross Schlotthauer" <rv7maker(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Aluminum air vents
Date: May 27, 2004
For another option check out: Check out www.experimentalair.com/products.html >From: EddyFernan(at)aol.com >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Aluminum air vents >Date: Thu, 27 May 2004 10:11:57 EDT > > >I thought the fellow RVers could benefit from my experience. I saw your >blurb about the new large aluminum air vents that Van's is selling, and I >was >about to order them when another builder told me that Affordablepanels.com >was >selling nicer ones much cheaper. I couldn't make up my mind on which ones >to >order, so I ordered a pair from Vans, and another one from Affordable >Panels. >Well, after having seen them both, and I will send back the ones I bought >from >Van's. I just thought I should let everyone know, so they can get them >while >they are cheap. > >Eddy Fernandez >In canopy mode >RV9a > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 27, 2004
From: Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com>
Subject: Re: Aluminum air vents
rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com, RV10(at)yahoogroups.com There is another option from www.experimentalair.com: http://www.experimentalair.com/products.html ----- Original Message ----- From: <EddyFernan(at)aol.com> Subject: RV-List: Aluminum air vents I thought the fellow RVers could benefit from my experience. I saw your blurb about the new large aluminum air vents that Van's is selling, and I was about to order them when another builder told me that Affordablepanels.com was selling nicer ones much cheaper. I couldn't make up my mind on which ones to order, so I ordered a pair from Vans, and another one from Affordable Panels. Well, after having seen them both, and I will send back the ones I bought from Van's. I just thought I should let everyone know, so they can get them while they are cheap. Eddy Fernandez In canopy mode RV9a ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 27, 2004
From: "Bob <panamared3(at)brier.net>" <6.0.1.1.0.20040521132943.032b6510(at)mail.brier.net>
Subject: Re: Low Fuel Pressure
<6.0.1.1.0.20040521132943.032b6510(at)mail.brier.net> >Sometimes I read posts such as yours and worry about the pilot continuing >to fly the plane with a problem such as this. I wouldn't get back into this >aircraft until I found the solution or, at least, found a way to check out >the problem without killing myself. My thoughts exactly. I do fly with a parachute, but I certainly do not look forward to using it. Any ideas of how to find the solution without flying will be greatly appreciated. Bob RV6 NightFighter ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 27, 2004
From: Gert <gert(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Aluminum air vents
Or you get a pair from B&B hardware, Kansas (??) for under a 100, just bought another pair from them. They showed the vents at OSh, I believe they are 1-1/4" vents. Gert EddyFernan(at)aol.com wrote: > > I thought the fellow RVers could benefit from my experience. I saw your > blurb about the new large aluminum air vents that Van's is selling, and I was > about to order them when another builder told me that Affordablepanels.com was > selling nicer ones much cheaper. I couldn't make up my mind on which ones to > order, so I ordered a pair from Vans, and another one from Affordable Panels. > Well, after having seen them both, and I will send back the ones I bought from > Van's. I just thought I should let everyone know, so they can get them while > they are cheap. > > Eddy Fernandez > In canopy mode > RV9a > > > > > > > -- is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: unsolicited email from SportFlyingShop.com
Date: May 27, 2004
> > Okay, from one friendly NWA to another NWA. > > No SportFlyingShop.com did not download anything, nor did I opt for > anything when looking at their website. Websites can and will download > your email address without your knowledge. > > It is not a virus, nor is it spyware adware or other ware, it's an > internet feature ;-) > > Gert > Gert, is there anyway to disable this "feature" in the MS IExplore 6.0 Browser?? Ed Anderson eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net>
Subject: Wing wiring conduits & heated pitot tube
Date: May 27, 2004
I'm studying my RV-6 QB wings & Dwg 10 showing aileron push tube, and other dwgs and websites showing ways to route pitot tube tubing for Gretz heated pitot tube. Looks like lots of space in big lightening holes in all the ribs aft of spar. Aileron pushtube has to go in there but seems there shouldn't be any problem securing 1 or two small PVC pipes in there for 12volt wires to strobes & position lights & RG-58 (0.20 inch OD) to a Bob Archer antenna in each wing tip. There'd be a 12 wire to landing light and 12 v wire to heated pitot in left tip, plus air plumbing from pitot in left. Ques 1: Has it been common practice to run wires in conduits aft of the spar in those lightening holes? I'd secure the pvc at each end (root & tip) with an Adel clamp. I'm thinking I'd let one pvc conduit lay on the bottom of the lightening holes and mount the other opposite on the top side (keep my strobe pwr wire sep from antenna cable, just in case) - I can secure that upper conduit with 1 or more Adel clamps, starting above the inspection plate area and outboard (that area is open on the QB wings so I'd install the conduit before closing the wing). Seems like the pvc conduits should be out of the way of the aileron tube in inbd half of wing. Ques 2: Few months ago some folks reported large jumps in price of Gretz pitot tubes. Besides salvage, is there a lower priced alternative for new heated pitot that has any track record of reliability - or potential, if new? Is Dynon coming out with their own heated pitot tube? I'm planning on a D-10. - I've reviewed websites and found the caution about wing tie down being uncomfortably close to Gretz pitot tube, if mounted just outb'd of std location for Van's pitot tube. My QB wings already have the square threaded rod for the tie down eye bolts in the stock place, so I'm not planning to move them outbd 1 bay - no access now. - So, looks like rope would be running down and outbd from std tie down point, right under the pitot tube, mounted slight further outbd. Been a problem or is that a reasonable plan? Appreciate any comments and words of wisdom on these two areas. David ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 27, 2004
From: Gert <gert(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: unsolicited email from SportFlyingShop.com
Hmm not that I know of, but then again, I don't really use IE6. There are however a slew of settings you can play with. Active X does make it easier to get your info, if you do not tighten up or disable IE6 Active X controls. problem is some websites won't work without them. I'd say, the heck with those websites.......... Gert Ed Anderson wrote: > > >> >>Okay, from one friendly NWA to another NWA. >> >>No SportFlyingShop.com did not download anything, nor did I opt for >>anything when looking at their website. Websites can and will download >>your email address without your knowledge. >> >>It is not a virus, nor is it spyware adware or other ware, it's an >>internet feature ;-) >> >>Gert >> > > > > Gert, is there anyway to disable this "feature" in the MS IExplore 6.0 > Browser?? > > Ed Anderson > eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com > > > > > > > -- is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Wing wiring conduits & heated pitot tube
Date: May 28, 2004
From: "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" <F.vanderHulst(at)ucol.ac.nz>
Many people do run conduit there. From reading the RV-list, it seems that getting the wires forward of the spar to the instrument panel might be a bit awkward. I opted to drill new holes in the LE ribs for conduit, and then to run wires between the fuel tanks and the spar (where the tube to the pitot goes). I don't know how effective this is, since I haven't actually run any wires. Frank -----Original Message----- I'm studying my RV-6 QB wings & Dwg 10 showing aileron push tube, and other dwgs and websites showing ways to route pitot tube tubing for Gretz heated pitot tube. Looks like lots of space in big lightening holes in all the ribs aft of spar. Aileron pushtube has to go in there but seems there shouldn't be any problem securing 1 or two small PVC pipes in there for 12volt wires to strobes & position lights & RG-58 (0.20 inch OD) to a Bob Archer antenna in each wing tip. There'd be a 12 wire to landing light and 12 v wire to heated pitot in left tip, plus air plumbing from pitot in left. Ques 1: Has it been common practice to run wires in conduits aft of the spar in those lightening holes? I'd secure the pvc at each end (root & tip) with an Adel clamp. I'm thinking I'd let one pvc conduit lay on the bottom of the lightening holes and mount the other opposite on the top side (keep my strobe pwr wire sep from antenna cable, just in case) - I can secure that upper conduit with 1 or more Adel clamps, starting above the inspection plate area and outboard (that area is open on the QB wings so I'd install the conduit before closing the wing). Seems like the pvc conduits should be out of the way of the aileron tube in inbd half of wing. Learn real skills for the real world - Apply online at http://www.ucol.ac.nz or call 0800 GO UCOL (0800 46 8265) or txt free 3388 for more information and make a good move to UCOL Universal College of Learning. Enrol with a public institute and be certain of your future ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 28, 2004
From: Dj Merrill <deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu>
Subject: Re: unsolicited email from SportFlyingShop.com
Gert wrote: > problem is some websites won't work without them. I'd say, the heck with > those websites.......... You got my vote... :-) -Dj ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Low Fuel Pressure <6.0.1.1.0.20040521132943.032b6510(at)mail.brier.net>
Date: May 27, 2004
This sure sounds like Stew Bergner's problem, which was eventually traced to AFP boost pump assembly. Are you listening stewie?? I don't remember the fix but I think he disabled the purge system? On May 26, 2004, at 2:30 PM, Bob wrote: > > Some of you really smart guys might be able to help me out on this > one. I > am getting low fuel pressures during cruise flight. Normal fuel > pressures > are 22-24 PSI without Aux boost pump and 26-27 PSI with boost pump on. > Now > without the aux boost pump I get about 10-11 PSI in cruise, I get 24 > PSI at > takeoff and landing. On the Sunday flight, when I had low pressures I > turned on the boost pump and pressures went back to the 24 PSI > range. Yesterday, after the PSI dropped, I turned on the boost pump, > pressure went back up to normal range, then slowly dropped back to > 10-11 > PSI. I turned the boost pump off and pressures dropped below 9 PSI. > > Engine is a IO 360 A1A (180 hp), Bendix fuel injection, and airflow > performance boost pump with assembly (fuel return line/check valve) and > fuel filter. All this stuff is plumbed according to airflow's > instructions. The system has been working fine for the first 150 > hours. Since the last annual, it has been acting funny. The only > things > that I did to the fuel system during the annual was to clean the fuel > filter and to clean the finger screen in the fuel servo. > > My mechanic said to fly and watch it, but I think now I need to do > something. Any ideas would be appreciated. > > Bob > RV6 NightFighter > > > _- > ======================================================================= > _- > ======================================================================= > _- > ======================================================================= > _- > ======================================================================= > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kathleen (rv7)" <Kathleen(at)rv7.us>
Subject: And When the Holes Don't Line Up?
Date: May 27, 2004
OK, I got lots of advice on this. I clecoed on the top skin -- at least enough to realize it wouldn't fit. Then I took Mike Holland's advice. He wrote, "What you need to do is remove the scrap aluminum tabs that attach the j-stringers to the curved bulkhead. They are pop-riveted this way for shipping. Once you do that you will note that the ends of the j's are longer than necessary. With this freed you will find that the skin holes align fine." He was right. Now I see that I got excited over nothing, well, it looked like something when the skin and the bulkhead didn't fit. Thanks Mike for the good advice... Kathleen www.rv7.us Subject: And When the Holes Don't Line Up? From: Kathleen (rv7) (Kathleen(at)rv7.us) Date: Wed May 26 - 9:28 PM In inspecting my QB (7a) fuselage I found that (f706) cabin member has a noticeable bend in it. When it is forced straight, the metal (f652 upper cabin bulkhead) bows out and there isn't any reasonable way to make it all fit. OK, I don't know how to further explain, so there is a picture or two at http://www.rv7.us/daily040516.htm The bottom line is that the pre-punched holes don't line up. I've decided on a fix -- redrill the holes in the back side and move the nutplates. That won't show inside the cabin, but I'm not sure that the problem isn't with the rib (f-706). If it is, it would mean that the outer skin wouldn't fit. Any suggestions on how I can determine where the real culprit is? This is the way it came from Van's. Any ideas? Anyone else have this problem? Kathleen www.rv7.us ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV8ter(at)aol.com
Date: May 28, 2004
Subject: lightspeed ignition buyers questions
It's time to buy an ignition system. I can't use the Lasar due to my Mag design (dual mag pack on a A1B6D engine from a Mooney). I need a Lightspeed 101 class. I guess Lightspeed is the best alternative since it's basically all anyone discusses. What's the practical difference between Lightspeed Plasma II, the II plus and the III? I don't see a picture in Van's catalog of how one would view the optional outputs the II Plus and III offer. How's that work? It sounds like if I go with the regular Plasma, I have to go with a push button start system? I can't use a Key start? I never hear anyone discuss using the Cockpit adjustable timing advance feature. Is that something that's only useful during initial setup and not used in flight? Any strong opinions out there on any of this? thx in advance, Lucky ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com>
Subject: lightspeed ignition buyers questions
Date: May 28, 2004
Lucky, The Jeff Rose ElectroAir system is also a good option. And Jeff also provides good support. We are (happily) flying with one of Jeff's systems and I am building using one of Klaus' systems (Plasma II+). BOTH are good options. Both of these options allow for a keyswitch. Not trying to promote either. Just saying you do have options. James [SNIP] > I guess Lightspeed is the best alternative since it's basically > all anyone > discusses. What's the practical difference between Lightspeed [SNIP] > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 28, 2004
From: Brian Alley <n320wt(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: lightspeed ignition buyers questions
I purchased the Lightspeed system based on the minimum operating voltage. The Rose system will quite around 10 volts I believe. The Lightspeed system is advertised to operate on as low as 4 volts. If you loose an alternator you'll have some extra time to find an airport. ==== BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT) CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES 304-872-7938 shop 304-562-6800 home How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 28, 2004
From: Christopher Stone <rv8iator(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Wing wiring conduits & heated pitot tube
We (two RV-8s being built simultaneously) enlarged the tooling holes (step drill) in the ribs aft of the spar to accept flexable pvc conduit purchased from Van's. It's ~1 in diameter, large enough for wires for strobes, position, landing lights and antenna coax. The pitot-static lines are routed through prepunched holes provided for them. There are plastic bushing provided to support the aluminum pitot-static tubing. Chris Stone -8 wings Newberg, OR -----Original Message----- From: "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" <F.vanderHulst(at)ucol.ac.nz> Subject: RE: RV-List: Wing wiring conduits & heated pitot tube Many people do run conduit there. From reading the RV-list, it seems that getting the wires forward of the spar to the instrument panel might be a bit awkward. I opted to drill new holes in the LE ribs for conduit, and then to run wires between the fuel tanks and the spar (where the tube to the pitot goes). I don't know how effective this is, since I haven't actually run any wires. Frank -----Original Message----- I'm studying my RV-6 QB wings & Dwg 10 showing aileron push tube, and other dwgs and websites showing ways to route pitot tube tubing for Gretz heated pitot tube. Looks like lots of space in big lightening holes in all the ribs aft of spar. Aileron pushtube has to go in there but seems there shouldn't be any problem securing 1 or two small PVC pipes in there for 12volt wires to strobes & position lights & RG-58 (0.20 inch OD) to a Bob Archer antenna in each wing tip. There'd be a 12 wire to landing light and 12 v wire to heated pitot in left tip, plus air plumbing from pitot in left. Ques 1: Has it been common practice to run wires in conduits aft of the spar in those lightening holes? I'd secure the pvc at each end (root & tip) with an Adel clamp. I'm thinking I'd let one pvc conduit lay on the bottom of the lightening holes and mount the other opposite on the top side (keep my strobe pwr wire sep from antenna cable, just in case) - I can secure that upper conduit with 1 or more Adel clamps, starting above the inspection plate area and outboard (that area is open on the QB wings so I'd install the conduit before closing the wing). Seems like the pvc conduits should be out of the way of the aileron tube in inbd half of wing. Learn real skills for the real world - Apply online at http://www.ucol.ac.nz or call 0800 GO UCOL (0800 46 8265) or txt free 3388 for more information and make a good move to UCOL Universal College of Learning. Enrol with a public institute and be certain of your future ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 28, 2004
From: Ken Balch <kbalch(at)cfl.rr.com>
Subject: RV-8 For Sale
Well, it's time to buy some of the expensive pieces of the new project, so my RV-8 is for sale. The full details: RV-8 150TT - empty weight 1110 - built from a standard kit IO-360-A1B6 (200+HP) 150SMOH by Bart Lalonde (AeroSport Power) - the case & crank were certified by Bart to conform to new limits or better and everything else is new - Hartzell C2YK prop - new from Van's - Airflow Performance fuel injection system with purge valve - Lightspeed electronic ignition system - Vetterman crossover exhaust - Denso 35amp alternator - SkyTec lightweight starter - Stewart Warner oil cooler - new from Pacific Oil Cooler - Fuel tanks professionally built by Evan Johnson with flop tube in left tank - Infinity grip with PTT, coolie hat two-axis trim, start button, flap switch & two unassigned buttons - Andair fuel selector - Deluxe throttle quadrant from Van's - Halon fire extinguisher - ACK ELT - Brake reservoirs on pedals with no low pressure plastic tubing. - Cowling installed with Camlocs. No hinges fwf. - Becki Orndorff seats - navy blue w/gray chevron - Hooker harnesses All instruments & avionics brand new: UPS GX-65 GPS/Comm UPS SL-70 Transponder UMA airspeed indicator - knots SigmaTek attitude indicator - vacuum Altimeter - 20K' Turn coordinator SigmaTek directional gyro - vacuum RMI uEncoder Manifold pressure - Van's Tachometer - Van's Oil temp - Van's Oil pressure - Van's EGT - Van's (one channel - cylinder #3) CHT - Van's (one channel - Cylinder #3) G meter Clock - Electronics International Volt/Ammeter - Electronics International Magnetic compass - S.I.R.S. Fuel computer - Electronics International Dual fuel gauge - Electronics International suction gauge digital trim indicators (two-axis) PS Engineering intercom Hobbs meter toggle switches for magneto & electronic ignition Electrical system & wiring per Van's plans and utilizing Van's harness kit. Full custom paint job in a stylized, Stars & Stripes scheme. The design was my idea, refined by Craig Barnett (Scheme Designers), and further refined & executed by John Stahr (Stahr Design). The plane was extensively hand airbrushed, with rippling depth effects and embroidered-look stars & N numbers. It was a hit at SnF 2004. The plane was photographed by Sport Aviation for an upcoming feature and will be mentioned in Kitplanes next month. Photos: www.clubphoto.com/_cgi-bin/app.pl/albums/large_image_view?id=2288801&link_code=sa01_17 The plane is located in Kissimmee, Florida. I will deliver it anywhere in the US for expenses. $136,000 Regards, Ken Balch RV-8 N118KB Pitts Model 12 #228 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 28, 2004
From: Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com>
Subject: Finding AD's for your engine...
rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com, RV10(at)yahoogroups.com Thanks to Mike Robertson for helping me find the AD's for my engine... I should be assembling my engine this weekend and back in the air soon! I've been starting to have withdrawals, but flying with my buddy in the Yak-52 seems to help! :) I just thought I would pass along some instructions on how to do this for yourself if you're interested... How to find AD's that apply to your engine: Go to the FAA's Regulatory and Guidance Library (be careful of line rap in the URL below): http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgAD.nsf/MainFrame?OpenFrameSet Click on Current ADs - By Make Click on the "L" at the top of the page Find Lycoming Engines in the list and click on the link Find your engine and click on the link Hope this helps! -Bill VonDane EAA Tech Counselor RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs www.vondane.com www.creativair.com www.epanelbuilder.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BBreckenridge(at)att.net
Subject: RE: Wing wiring conduits & heated pitot tube
Date: May 28, 2004
Ques 2: Few months ago some folks reported large jumps in price of Gretz pitot tubes. Besides salvage, is there a lower priced alternative for new heated pitot that has any track record of reliability - or potential, if new? Is Dynon coming out with their own heated pitot tube? I'm planning on a D-10. David; I just ordered Dynon's heated PITOT from SafeAir1 for $199 (http://www.safeair1.com/index.htm). Delivery won't be til late July or so. I found it, lost it, dug for it, found it again! Now, I can't tell you exactly how to find it on their website again. The non-heated version is easily found. I received my invoice yesterday and it clearly states "heated" pitot. I ordered it based on list conversation some time back of how expensive these things have gotten. Bruce Breckenridge RV-10 #18 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
<6.0.1.1.0.20040521132943.032b6510(at)mail.brier.net>
Subject: Re: Low Fuel Pressure
<6.0.1.1.0.20040521132943.032b6510(at)mail.brier.net>
Date: May 28, 2004
I would also take a look at the main filter again. Something may have come loose and is now partially blocking the outlet. Mike Robertson >From: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: Low Fuel Pressure ><6.0.1.1.0.20040521132943.032b6510(at)mail.brier.net> >Date: Thu, 27 May 2004 06:57:18 -0600 > > >This sure sounds like Stew Bergner's problem, which was eventually >traced to AFP boost pump assembly. Are you listening stewie?? > >I don't remember the fix but I think he disabled the purge system? > > >On May 26, 2004, at 2:30 PM, Bob wrote: > > > > > Some of you really smart guys might be able to help me out on this > > one. I > > am getting low fuel pressures during cruise flight. Normal fuel > > pressures > > are 22-24 PSI without Aux boost pump and 26-27 PSI with boost pump on. > > Now > > without the aux boost pump I get about 10-11 PSI in cruise, I get 24 > > PSI at > > takeoff and landing. On the Sunday flight, when I had low pressures I > > turned on the boost pump and pressures went back to the 24 PSI > > range. Yesterday, after the PSI dropped, I turned on the boost pump, > > pressure went back up to normal range, then slowly dropped back to > > 10-11 > > PSI. I turned the boost pump off and pressures dropped below 9 PSI. > > > > Engine is a IO 360 A1A (180 hp), Bendix fuel injection, and airflow > > performance boost pump with assembly (fuel return line/check valve) and > > fuel filter. All this stuff is plumbed according to airflow's > > instructions. The system has been working fine for the first 150 > > hours. Since the last annual, it has been acting funny. The only > > things > > that I did to the fuel system during the annual was to clean the fuel > > filter and to clean the finger screen in the fuel servo. > > > > My mechanic said to fly and watch it, but I think now I need to do > > something. Any ideas would be appreciated. > > > > Bob > > RV6 NightFighter > > > > > > _- > > ====================================================================== > > _- > > ====================================================================== > > _- > > ====================================================================== > > _- > > ====================================================================== > > > > > > > > > Get 200+ ad-free, high-fidelity stations and LIVE Major League Baseball Gameday Audio! http://radio.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200491ave/direct/01/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 28, 2004
Subject: Re: unsolicited email from SportFlyingShop.com
From: "Dave Parsons" <rvl(at)davepar.com>
> Gert, is there anyway to disable this "feature" in the MS IExplore 6.0 > Browser?? I have to jump in here. Internet Explorer does not send your email address to web sites that you visit. You are most likely getting junk mail from posting to this list. Since our email addresses are posted on the Matronics rv-list web site archive, anybody can write a program to search through the archive and pick up the email addresses. I use different email addresses for every service I sign up for. The only junk mail I am getting is from the address I use for this list. Dave Seattle RV-7A wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com>
Subject: RE: Finding AD's for your engine...
Date: May 28, 2004
Here is a link to the Lycoming Service Bulletins, like the 505B and 475C. http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main.jsp?bodyPage/support/publications/main tenancePublications/serviceBulletins.html Matthew Brandes, Van's RV-9A (Wings/Fuselage) EAA Chapter 868/91/1329 www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com>
Subject: RE: lightspeed ignition buyers questions
Date: May 28, 2004
Lucky, I found this site with a picture and diagram. http://www.sx300group.org/hangar_talk.htm Matthew Brandes, Van's RV-9A (Wings/Fuselage) EAA Chapter 868/91/1329 www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV8ter(at)aol.com
Date: May 28, 2004
Subject: Re: RE: lightspeed ignition buyers questions
Hey, you win! Thanks for the information as you saved me from making a mistake if I had ordered the Jeff Rose system. My engine only has one mag accessory hole which drives both mag packs (that's what the D is about in the A1B6D). I plan on using one single mag so I'll still need the In a message dated 5/28/2004 4:45:48 PM Eastern Standard Time, matthew(at)n523rv.com writes: Lucky, I found this site with a picture and diagram. http://www.sx300group.org/hangar_talk.htm Matthew Brandes, Van's RV-9A (Wings/Fuselage) EAA Chapter 868/91/1329 www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Barnes" <meangreenrv4(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Bakersfield EAA BBQ
Date: May 28, 2004
Chapter 71 BBQ will be held June 5, @ L45 (Bakersfield Muni) There are a few things that we will try to approve on, this year we will serve at 1:00pm, the cost is only $ 10.00. Lots of planes and hangar talk. So if you will be going to Merced this year fly over to L45 and get a Tri-Tip lunch, visit with old friends or make some new ones. If you still have some questions you can call (661) 836-1028 Get 200+ ad-free, high-fidelity stations and LIVE Major League Baseball Gameday Audio! http://radio.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200491ave/direct/01/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Are Barstad" <are_barstad(at)norlogic.com>
Subject: Missing dimples
Date: May 28, 2004
Okay - this is embarrassing... After assembling one of my flaps I noticed that I must have forgot to dimple one side of the main spar - D'Oh! The side with the hinge is dimpled but not the side under the top skin. While I'm confident it will never come apart, I'm not sure if it will pass inspection. I have no idea how I could forget this and not notice before riveting. I can only fix this by building a new flap since it would be impossible to salvage due to cherry max rivets on the spar where the ribs are attached. It would be a shame since the flap otherwise looks like a million bucks... Does anyone have any experience with this? Are RV-8 - Wings --- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com>
Subject: Re: Bakersfield EAA BBQ
Date: May 28, 2004
Tim, Are you doing this in conjunction with the car show and RC models like you did awhile back or is it like the old days, just a fly-in? Laird On May 28, 2004, at 2:10 PM, Tim Barnes wrote: > > > Chapter 71 BBQ will be held June 5, @ L45 (Bakersfield Muni) There are > a few > things that we will try to approve on, this year we will serve at > 1:00pm, > the cost is only $ 10.00. Lots of planes and hangar talk. So if you > will be > going to Merced this year fly over to L45 and get a Tri-Tip lunch, > visit > with old friends or make some new ones. If you still have some > questions you > can call (661) 836-1028 > > Get 200+ ad-free, high-fidelity stations and LIVE Major League Baseball > Gameday Audio! > http://radio.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200491ave/direct/01/ > > > _- > ======================================================================= > _- > ======================================================================= > _- > ======================================================================= > _- > ======================================================================= > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 28, 2004
From: Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Missing dimples
Can you simply drill out the rivets that are in the un-dimpled holes, then machine countersink the holes and re-rivet? --- Are Barstad wrote: > > > Okay - this is embarrassing... After assembling one > of my flaps I noticed > that I must have forgot to dimple one side of the > main spar - D'Oh! The side > with the hinge is dimpled but not the side under the > top skin. > > While I'm confident it will never come apart, I'm > not sure if it will pass > inspection. > > I have no idea how I could forget this and not > notice before riveting. I can > only fix this by building a new flap since it would > be impossible to salvage > due to cherry max rivets on the spar where the ribs > are attached. It would > be a shame since the flap otherwise looks like a > million bucks... > > Does anyone have any experience with this? > > Are > RV-8 - Wings > --- > > > > Contributions > any other > Forums. > > http://www.matronics.com/chat > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > > > > __________________________________ http://messenger.yahoo.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net>
Subject: Re: lightspeed ignition buyers questions
Date: May 28, 2004
----- Original Message ----- From: "Brian Alley" <n320wt(at)yahoo.com> Subject: RE: RV-List: lightspeed ignition buyers questions > > I purchased the Lightspeed system based on the minimum > operating voltage. The Rose system will quite around > 10 volts I believe. The Lightspeed system is > advertised to operate on as low as 4 volts. If you > loose an alternator you'll have some extra time to > find an airport. > > ==== > BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT) > CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES > 304-872-7938 shop > 304-562-6800 home > ((((((((((()))))))))))))) That is why it is good to have the other half of the spark plugs driven by a magneto. Even if the battery fails to deliver, for what ever reason, you still have spark plugs working. EI with magneto is a safer system with alternate power source for contingency. I suggest you consider Bob Nuckoll's methodology of using an endurance buss system with a yearly new 17 amp hour battery. With not more than 8 amps draw on the endurance buss, there will be 2 hours to find that airport or continue your flight to final destination if the alternator quits provided you have a fully charged and capable battery. For more information on the endurance buss and Bob Nuckolls, visit http://www.matronics.com/subscription/ and subscribe to aeroelectric-list or search aeroelectric-list archives at http://www.matronics.com/searching/ws_script.cgi Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker" ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net>
Subject: Re: Missing dimples
Date: May 28, 2004
No experience with this -- however -- You should be able to drill them out. If that fails, you can always buy new parts and do the work over. You are not the first person/builder to do this and you will not be the last. Other alternatives? You should call Vans and see what they advise. Indiana Larry ----- Original Message ----- From: "Are Barstad" <are_barstad(at)norlogic.com> Subject: RV-List: Missing dimples > > Okay - this is embarrassing... After assembling one of my flaps I noticed > that I must have forgot to dimple one side of the main spar - D'Oh! The side > with the hinge is dimpled but not the side under the top skin. > > While I'm confident it will never come apart, I'm not sure if it will pass > inspection. > > I have no idea how I could forget this and not notice before riveting. I can > only fix this by building a new flap since it would be impossible to salvage > due to cherry max rivets on the spar where the ribs are attached. It would > be a shame since the flap otherwise looks like a million bucks... > > Does anyone have any experience with this? > > Are > RV-8 - Wings > --- > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net>
Subject: Re: Missing dimples
Date: May 28, 2004
Hello Are, If I am reading your email correctly: Are the the Cherry Max rivets you refer to the structural type? if so they will have a steel shank in the center that can be driven out with a pin punch. In some cases a die grinder or Dremel is needed to remove most of the rivet head Once the pin is removed they can be drilled out with ease. This then should allow you to salvage the good parts and or allow you to dimple the forgotten dimples and then get back to building. If you feel the skin or any other part is damaged too much replacement will be your choice. If the Cherry Max rivets you refer to are the lighter duty type that come with the kit you should be able to drill them out with little effort. Jim in Kelowna ----- Original Message ----- From: "Are Barstad" <are_barstad(at)norlogic.com> Subject: RV-List: Missing dimples > > Okay - this is embarrassing... After assembling one of my flaps I noticed > that I must have forgot to dimple one side of the main spar - D'Oh! The side > with the hinge is dimpled but not the side under the top skin. > > While I'm confident it will never come apart, I'm not sure if it will pass > inspection. > > I have no idea how I could forget this and not notice before riveting. I can > only fix this by building a new flap since it would be impossible to salvage > due to cherry max rivets on the spar where the ribs are attached. It would > be a shame since the flap otherwise looks like a million bucks... > > Does anyone have any experience with this? > > Are > RV-8 - Wings > --- > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 28, 2004
From: RV-7A(at)austin.rr.com
Subject: Rotating Fuselage Stands for Sale.
I am building and selling Fuselage Stands that support all RV's for $250. I have them listed on Ebay as well. Feel free to email me for info. RV-7A@Austin.RR.com Pics are here. http://jeffsrv7a.com/Fusejig.htm ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com>
Subject: lightspeed ignition buyers questions
Date: May 28, 2004
Those "operating voltages" may not be as far apart as you may think. In any case though if you take the midpoint for both, you still should have some time before your ("in good health .... right??") battery goes dead. Also I **THINK** there is a difference in where they operate in the "starting the engine" mode vs once the engine is running. Don't have the numbers and details right now but a friend of mine has noticed this. Again, both systems are good systems. James > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Brian Alley > Sent: Friday, May 28, 2004 9:10 AM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV-List: lightspeed ignition buyers questions > > > I purchased the Lightspeed system based on the minimum > operating voltage. The Rose system will quite around > 10 volts I believe. The Lightspeed system is > advertised to operate on as low as 4 volts. If you > loose an alternator you'll have some extra time to > find an airport. > > ==== > BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT) > CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES > 304-872-7938 shop > 304-562-6800 home > > How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck? > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us>
"'owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com '"(at)matronics.com
Subject: bearing material
Date: May 28, 2004
Laird, big bummer, Obviously don't run the engine at all, but its really unusual to see bearing wear this early in the life of a proven engine. Was there a lot of metal? Lycoming has a sb on the 100% replacement items during OH, but its a long list. The downside is things like cams and lifter bodies tend to go after TBO so now you are in the quandry of dealing with that in another 1000 hours again, given that they pass muster now. Its true that there are service limits and new limits, but the service limits aren't that great, and on many parts you will not reach TBO by using them. I'm not convinced you yet know what caused the premature failure or where it is specifically. One option is to pull the cylinders and see if its a con bearing. If so, and the metal load was very low, then your bottom end mains may be ok. In this case the OH is just a disassembly, clean, replace all bearings and seals and reassemble. The other thing that I don't yet know is was there any other contaminants such as silicon or steel. Bearings can be wiped by failing things like an oil pump, or a bad air filter letting a lot of dirt in. This latter will usually show up as poor compresion first though. Re shops, Lycon does seem to be the best in our sorta local area, to which I've never heard of a complaint. This is definately an area where you get what you pay for, but paying big bucks doesn't ensure that. Take the time to have a long conversation with them. If they know their stuff they will grant you that luxury. Most good pros know that this is a part of running a good business and maintaining a strong reputation. I would also add that you are more than competent to tear this down your self and explore it some more, and in fact, possibly repair it your self. I've built a lot of aircraft and automotive engines, and like anything else, taking your time, getting good info, borrowing the right tools when you need them, etc will produce a good job and you will gain from the experience. And worse case, if you tear it down and all looks nasty, box it up and mail it off. But at least you will be confident at that point that it really needed a full OH. I'd be happy to pop up and look at it once you got it apart, or anytime for that matter. W From: Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com> Subject: RV-List: Questions For An Overhaul Shop Hi all, So much for having TOO much fun in the Bahamas last month. After I got home from the trip, I changed the oil and found metal in the oil filter. 950 TTSN, in 3 years. Lycoming confirmed it was bearing material. %$#@!!! There were no symptoms during the last flights, such as low oil pressure (75psi warm) or vibration. I had just finished flying 45 hrs in the previous 2 weeks, with nothing in the filter on the last oil change. At this point I'm not interested in doing the overhaul myself, even assisted, so I'm looking for a shop to do an overhaul to get back flying. Right now I've got some shops in my mind (including Aero Sport) but I'm not quite sure how to approach them. How do I approach these companies to compare prices to get an "apples to apples comparison. I'm sure they'd want to look at the engine before making any quote. I can't send them all the engine. I want to make sure I look around to get a warm fuzzy when I end up sending it someone and parting with the next 5 years of my expendable income. Would asking them for a quote on their labor costs for a "standard" (whatever that is) overhaul would be the right way to do it?. Or a quote on an overhaul with all parts assumed good, like crankcase, crank, cam, pistons and cylinders. (I know that there will be some components that'll need replacing, but with a 1000hr motor since new, there should be a lot of good parts, except what has been damaged from the bearing giving up.) Any other ideas? Since this is the first experience with this kind of experience, any suggestions would be welcomed. TIA, Laird RV-6 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us>
"'owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com '"(at)matronics.com
Subject: automotive parts
Date: May 29, 2004
Folks, Automotive coolant hoses are not rated for constant fuel and oil exposure, they will usually begin the swell and sweat the oil through. They can also delaminate internally and then possibly cause a plug. I would never use this in a breather installation. Use the soft 3003 aluminum versa tube with the 303 hose and ss clamps for the connections. RE little crankcase vent filter used in cars. These are most often integrated with a PCV valve, to which you wouldn't want in an AC engine. These can not only plug up, but they are rated for a specific flow and most of us do not have access to what that is, or how to appropriately rate one to a lycoming. If either of these plug, you will have your front seal move out, or a case gasket move out, and a big oil leak to follow. W ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil(at)petrasoft.net>
Subject: Re: unsolicited email from SportFlyingShop.com
Date: May 29, 2004
> No SportFlyingShop.com did not download anything, nor did I opt for > anything when looking at their website. Websites can and will download > your email address without your knowledge. > Sorry but this is simply not true. There is (or was) an HTTP header that was used for this purpose but your email only get's sent to webservers if YOUR browser writes this header entry. The webserver has no way to download your email address. Your browser my have the ability to send your address and if you are using an old version of IE that may be happening, but most (if not all) browsers have stopped this practice. I did a little test on my webserver once just so see how many of my visitors had browsers that were sending email addresses and I didn't get any. Godspeed, Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Panel http://www.myrv7.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Finding AD's for your engine...
Date: May 29, 2004
Matthew Thanks for the info - have bookmarked it, Chuck Rowbotham RV-8A >From: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: RV-List: RE: Finding AD's for your engine... >Date: Fri, 28 May 2004 15:17:36 -0500 > > >Here is a link to the Lycoming Service Bulletins, like the 505B and 475C. > >http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main.jsp?bodyPage/support/publications/main >tenancePublications/serviceBulletins.html > > >Matthew Brandes, >Van's RV-9A (Wings/Fuselage) >EAA Chapter 868/91/1329 >www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/> > > Watch LIVE baseball games on your computer with MLB.TV, included with MSN Premium! http://join.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200439ave/direct/01/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Barnyard BOb" <rv3a(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: unsolicited email from SportFlyingShop.com
Date: May 29, 2004
> > No SportFlyingShop.com did not download anything, nor did I opt for > > anything when looking at their website. Websites can and will download > > your email address without your knowledge. > > > > Sorry but this is simply not true. There is (or was) an HTTP header that > was used for this purpose but your email only get's sent to webservers if > YOUR browser writes this header entry. The webserver has no way to download > your email address. Your browser my have the ability to send your address > and if you are using an old version of IE that may be happening, but most > (if not all) browsers have stopped this practice. I did a little test on my > webserver once just so see how many of my visitors had browsers that were > sending email addresses and I didn't get any. > > Godspeed, > > Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas > RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Panel +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ What roll do cookies play? Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com>
Subject: Governor Problem - MT Governor
Date: May 29, 2004
With about 19 hours on the -7, I had a problem this morning. On the runup I noticed that there was no prop RPM drop off and it felt like there was no resistance on the other end of the control cable. I went back to the hangar and un-cowled and found the control arm and rod end resting on the shelf of the firewall recess. The small metric bolt that held the control arm in place had backed out and the arm had worked itself off the splined shaft. To be honest, I am not sure that I checked to make sure the lock washer was in place and properly installed. My assumption now is that the governor probably came without the tabs on the lock washer bent--perhaps anticipating having to re-clock the arm. But I'm not sure. Anyway, can anyone shine any light on this, and does anyone have any suggestions on where one might find one of these metric bolts? The bolt appears to be about the size of a #8 screw. More importantly it might be a good idea to check your governor control arm if you have the MT governor. The lock washer has a tab that bends over the arm and another that bends in the opposite direction to capture the bolt. Pat Hatch RV-4 RV-6 RV-7 All Flying Vero Beach, FL ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ladyrat01(at)aol.com
Date: May 29, 2004
Subject: Re: Governor Problem - MT Governor
DROP DEAD RUMP ASS ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 29, 2004
From: linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Governor Problem - MT Governor
For the metric stuff, visit your neighborhood ace aircraft supply. Ace is the place! Linn Pat Hatch wrote: > >With about 19 hours on the -7, I had a problem this morning. On the runup I noticed that there was no prop RPM drop off and it felt like there was no resistance on the other end of the control cable. I went back to the hangar and un-cowled and found the control arm and rod end resting on the shelf of the firewall recess. The small metric bolt that held the control arm in place had backed out and the arm had worked itself off the splined shaft. To be honest, I am not sure that I checked to make sure the lock washer was in place and properly installed. My assumption now is that the governor probably came without the tabs on the lock washer bent--perhaps anticipating having to re-clock the arm. But I'm not sure. Anyway, can anyone shine any light on this, and does anyone have any suggestions on where one might find one of these metric bolts? The bolt appears to be about the size of a #8 screw. > >More importantly it might be a good idea to check your governor control arm if you have the MT governor. The lock washer has a tab that bends over the arm and another that bends in the opposite direction to capture the bolt. > >Pat Hatch >RV-4 >RV-6 >RV-7 All Flying >Vero Beach, FL > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jordan Grant" <gra9933(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Governor Problem - MT Governor
Date: May 29, 2004
Pat, I recently installed my MT Governor. Like you said, it came with instructions to set the arm to the proper clock position you want, then to bend over the washer yourself. I think this is something that is easily forgotten - especially if you don't need to reset the arm. I'm going to write myself a note to remember to do that before I fly. Jordan Grant RV-6 - Working on the fuel System -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Pat Hatch Subject: RV-List: Governor Problem - MT Governor With about 19 hours on the -7, I had a problem this morning. On the runup I noticed that there was no prop RPM drop off and it felt like there was no resistance on the other end of the control cable. I went back to the hangar and un-cowled and found the control arm and rod end resting on the shelf of the firewall recess. The small metric bolt that held the control arm in place had backed out and the arm had worked itself off the splined shaft. To be honest, I am not sure that I checked to make sure the lock washer was in place and properly installed. My assumption now is that the governor probably came without the tabs on the lock washer bent--perhaps anticipating having to re-clock the arm. But I'm not sure. Anyway, can anyone shine any light on this, and does anyone have any suggestions on where one might find one of these metric bolts? The bolt appears to be about the size of a #8 screw. More importantly it might be a good idea to check your governor control arm if you have the MT governor. The lock washer has a tab that bends over the arm and another that bends in the opposite direction to capture the bolt. Pat Hatch RV-4 RV-6 RV-7 All Flying Vero Beach, FL ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Anglin" <jlanglin44(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Matronics trim governor
Date: May 29, 2004
Would it be possible for one of these to come with a direct short to ground in the circuit? I wired mine into the system and the yellow common wire that is supposed to go to the coolie hat switch is grounded. I don't get it. Jim ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: Governor Problem - MT Governor
Date: May 29, 2004
I would think that safety wiring the bolt would be much more foolproof than the bent-up washer thing. I did bend up the washer, but it seemed on the hokey side to me. It's been a while since I looked closely at mine, but if I recall, the bolt head isn't fat enough for a lunk like me to try drilling it myself. If anybody happens to find a source for those metric bolts with a drilled head, please pass the word on. Thanks, )_( Dan RV-7 N714D http://www.rvproject.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jordan Grant" <gra9933(at)bellsouth.net> Subject: RE: RV-List: Governor Problem - MT Governor > > Pat, > I recently installed my MT Governor. Like you said, it came with > instructions to set the arm to the proper clock position you want, then to > bend over the washer yourself. I think this is something that is easily > forgotten - especially if you don't need to reset the arm. I'm going to > write myself a note to remember to do that before I fly. > > Jordan Grant > RV-6 - Working on the fuel System > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Pat Hatch > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Governor Problem - MT Governor > > > With about 19 hours on the -7, I had a problem this morning. On the runup I > noticed that there was no prop RPM drop off and it felt like there was no > resistance on the other end of the control cable. I went back to the hangar > and un-cowled and found the control arm and rod end resting on the shelf of > the firewall recess. The small metric bolt that held the control arm in > place had backed out and the arm had worked itself off the splined shaft. > To be honest, I am not sure that I checked to make sure the lock washer was > in place and properly installed. My assumption now is that the governor > probably came without the tabs on the lock washer bent--perhaps anticipating > having to re-clock the arm. But I'm not sure. Anyway, can anyone shine any > light on this, and does anyone have any suggestions on where one might find > one of these metric bolts? The bolt appears to be about the size of a #8 > screw. > > More importantly it might be a good idea to check your governor control arm > if you have the MT governor. The lock washer has a tab that bends over the > arm and another that bends in the opposite direction to capture the bolt. > > Pat Hatch > RV-4 > RV-6 > RV-7 All Flying > Vero Beach, FL > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Governor Problem - MT Governor
Date: May 29, 2004
Jordan, thanks for the reply. You know, on further inspection of some photographs that I have of the governor installation, it looks like the tabs are bent over. So now I'm wondering whether the arm just slipped off the shaft and then the bolt backed out. Not sure, but now I'm thinking about drilling the hole out for an AN3 bolt and using a castle nut on the other side. I am not a big fan of lock washers in an installation like this anyway. Also, this way I won't have to wait a week for a metric bolt to get here in the mail. I am still debating whether I want to do this or not or maybe even use a #8 screw with a metal stop nut. As you know, the arm is not very wide and an AN3 bolt might be too big. And obviously I would probably void the warranty if I go this route. Anyone have any thoughts on this? Pat ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jordan Grant" <gra9933(at)bellsouth.net> Subject: RE: RV-List: Governor Problem - MT Governor > > Pat, > I recently installed my MT Governor. Like you said, it came with > instructions to set the arm to the proper clock position you want, then to > bend over the washer yourself. I think this is something that is easily > forgotten - especially if you don't need to reset the arm. I'm going to > write myself a note to remember to do that before I fly. > > Jordan Grant > RV-6 - Working on the fuel System > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Pat Hatch > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Governor Problem - MT Governor > > > With about 19 hours on the -7, I had a problem this morning. On the runup I > noticed that there was no prop RPM drop off and it felt like there was no > resistance on the other end of the control cable. I went back to the hangar > and un-cowled and found the control arm and rod end resting on the shelf of > the firewall recess. The small metric bolt that held the control arm in > place had backed out and the arm had worked itself off the splined shaft. > To be honest, I am not sure that I checked to make sure the lock washer was > in place and properly installed. My assumption now is that the governor > probably came without the tabs on the lock washer bent--perhaps anticipating > having to re-clock the arm. But I'm not sure. Anyway, can anyone shine any > light on this, and does anyone have any suggestions on where one might find > one of these metric bolts? The bolt appears to be about the size of a #8 > screw. > > More importantly it might be a good idea to check your governor control arm > if you have the MT governor. The lock washer has a tab that bends over the > arm and another that bends in the opposite direction to capture the bolt. > > Pat Hatch > RV-4 > RV-6 > RV-7 All Flying > Vero Beach, FL > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WFACT01(at)aol.com
Date: May 29, 2004
Subject: Re: Governor Problem - MT Governor
Pat Loctite works better than drilling a hole in the shaft-Tom Tom Whelan Whelan Farms Airport President EAA Chapter 1097 wfact01(at)aol.com 249 Hard Hill Road North PO Box 426 Bethlehem, CT 06751 Tel: 203-266-5300 Fax: 202-266-5140 EAA Technical/Flight Advisor RV-8 540 LYC (Engine Runs, Taxi-Tests) S-51 Mustang Turbine (Under Construction) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 29, 2004
From: Larry G RV-7 N697RV <edge540t(at)direcway.com>
Subject: Fuel tank proseal !
On the AN fittings for the fuel and vent fittings do I need to scuff up the fittings at all or just clean with MEK. And how tight is tight on the fittings. Is there a number for torque. Larry Gobin RV-7 Wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 29, 2004
From: Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: Matronics trim governor
> >Would it be possible for one of these to come with a direct short to ground >in the circuit? I wired mine into the system and the yellow common wire >that is supposed to go to the coolie hat switch is grounded. I don't get >it. Jim, My Matronics Governor Mk III docs say that that yellow wire may be optionally connected to ground. In that case the common wire from the coolie hat switch would also be connected to ground. I think your trim governor is probably perfectly fine. -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit) Ottawa, Canada http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 30, 2004
From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: Re: Governor Problem - MT Governor
Depends on where you live, but even back in the 70's I could get top quality German bolts at the nearest auto parts store. Metric stuff is pretty widely used everywhere in the world, even the USA and UK, except in aviation. I'd also check with MT to explain the problem, and try to find out if there is a "fix". This could help other people in the future. My 1/50th of a dollar. Mickey >... Also, this way I won't have to wait a week for a metric bolt to get >here in the mail. I am still debating whether I want to do this or not or >maybe even use a #8 screw with a metal stop nut. As you know, the arm is >not very wide and an AN3 bolt might be too big. And obviously I would >probably void the warranty if I go this route. Anyone have any thoughts on >this? -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JhnstnIII(at)aol.com
Date: May 30, 2004
Subject: drawing 25 and firewall penetrations and 0-360
Listers--Have checked the archives and can't find this one. Does anyone know if the firewall penetration locations on drawing 25 (RV-6) work for the 0-360 A1A? Thanks. --LeRoy Johnston, Columbus, OH, RV-6, firewall forward. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Governor Problem - MT Governor
Date: May 30, 2004
Pat, You may want to replace it with a metric stainless steel socket head (Allen) screw. They are available from our friendly Lowe's or Ace hardware. Then drill the head for .022 safety wire. I have found over time that this set-up works quite well. Mike Robertson >From: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: Re: RV-List: Governor Problem - MT Governor >Date: Sat, 29 May 2004 19:01:39 -0400 > > >Jordan, thanks for the reply. You know, on further inspection of some >photographs that I have of the governor installation, it looks like the >tabs >are bent over. So now I'm wondering whether the arm just slipped off the >shaft and then the bolt backed out. Not sure, but now I'm thinking about >drilling the hole out for an AN3 bolt and using a castle nut on the other >side. I am not a big fan of lock washers in an installation like this >anyway. Also, this way I won't have to wait a week for a metric bolt to >get >here in the mail. I am still debating whether I want to do this or not or >maybe even use a #8 screw with a metal stop nut. As you know, the arm is >not very wide and an AN3 bolt might be too big. And obviously I would >probably void the warranty if I go this route. Anyone have any thoughts on >this? > >Pat >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Jordan Grant" <gra9933(at)bellsouth.net> >To: >Subject: RE: RV-List: Governor Problem - MT Governor > > > > > > Pat, > > I recently installed my MT Governor. Like you said, it came with > > instructions to set the arm to the proper clock position you want, then >to > > bend over the washer yourself. I think this is something that is easily > > forgotten - especially if you don't need to reset the arm. I'm going to > > write myself a note to remember to do that before I fly. > > > > Jordan Grant > > RV-6 - Working on the fuel System > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Pat Hatch > > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > > Subject: RV-List: Governor Problem - MT Governor > > > > > > > > With about 19 hours on the -7, I had a problem this morning. On the >runup >I > > noticed that there was no prop RPM drop off and it felt like there was >no > > resistance on the other end of the control cable. I went back to the >hangar > > and un-cowled and found the control arm and rod end resting on the shelf >of > > the firewall recess. The small metric bolt that held the control arm in > > place had backed out and the arm had worked itself off the splined >shaft. > > To be honest, I am not sure that I checked to make sure the lock washer >was > > in place and properly installed. My assumption now is that the governor > > probably came without the tabs on the lock washer bent--perhaps >anticipating > > having to re-clock the arm. But I'm not sure. Anyway, can anyone shine >any > > light on this, and does anyone have any suggestions on where one might >find > > one of these metric bolts? The bolt appears to be about the size of a >#8 > > screw. > > > > More importantly it might be a good idea to check your governor control >arm > > if you have the MT governor. The lock washer has a tab that bends over >the > > arm and another that bends in the opposite direction to capture the >bolt. > > > > Pat Hatch > > RV-4 > > RV-6 > > RV-7 All Flying > > Vero Beach, FL > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com>
Subject: Jet Stream
Date: May 30, 2004
Here in the Colorado mountains I find that one of the most important factors effecting weather is the jet stream. If you want a good web site to see the streams present positions as well as forecasts into the future (up to 5 days or so) try this web site...I think its an important part of weather planning. http://squall.sfsu.edu/crws/jetstream.html#forecast John ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Austin" <austin(at)uniserve.com>
Subject: Brake fluid leak
Date: May 30, 2004
Listers, I have a small brake fluid leak from the bottom 90 degree fitting on the side of my right rudder pedal. This is the blue fitting going into the cylinder..low pressure. Since turning this tighter will either strip the threads or have the tubing running off at an unacceptable angle, I was wondering if teflon tape on the thread will fix the problem, or will the fluid eventually eat the tape ? What fix would you do ? Regards, Austin RV6A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Lamb" <lamb_russell(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Bakersfield EAA BBQ
Date: May 30, 2004
Laird, It is just like the old days no cars, no motorcycles and no RC planes. It will be just fly in and BBQ. Russell Tim, Are you doing this in conjunction with the car show and RC models like you did awhile back or is it like the old days, just a fly-in? Laird ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com>
Subject: Brake fluid leak
Date: May 30, 2004
Tefflon tape is fine for brake fluid, but you need to be carefull and put it on the fitting starting at about the second thread. You don't want to get it at the end of the threads where some of it can come off and block small orifices in the system. A better solution is to use the liquid pipe sealant. You can get it at any hardware store. With the liquid you can leave the fiting slightly loose and at the correct position and it will harden some. All of your pipe thread fittings should have a sealant applied. Brian Kraut Engineering Alternatives, Inc. www.engalt.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Austin Subject: RV-List: Brake fluid leak Listers, I have a small brake fluid leak from the bottom 90 degree fitting on the side of my right rudder pedal. This is the blue fitting going into the cylinder..low pressure. Since turning this tighter will either strip the threads or have the tubing running off at an unacceptable angle, I was wondering if teflon tape on the thread will fix the problem, or will the fluid eventually eat the tape ? What fix would you do ? Regards, Austin RV6A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 30, 2004
From: "Richard V. Reynolds" <rvreynolds(at)macs.net>
Subject: cowl mysterious pustules
After about 6 hours of test flights, my upper cowl has developed three mysterious pustules or blisters. My RV-6A cowl is about 5 years old and is of the "new" epoxy honeycomb construction. The inside was finished with a very thin coat of WEST epoxy and a high temperature white urethane enamel. The outside was finished with a urethane enamel. The cowl was finished last November in Norfolk, VA, and it has been stored in the hangar. The three blisters are are about 1 x 3, 1 x 2, and 1 x 2 , all about 1/8 high. There are corresponding blisters on the inside. The first two are located at the rear baffling line and the third one is located between cylinders 1-3 . It appears that the epoxy glass coating has lifted of the honeycomb but I have not pressed so hard as to pop them. The surface of the blister is "firm", not real soft and squeshy. Any thoughts??? Richard Reynolds, Norfolk, VA, RV-6A, N841RV, Flying, 7.8 hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Governor Problem - MT Governor
Date: May 30, 2004
Thanks, Mike. I did something similar. I replaced it with a stainless #8 screw. I drilled out the 4mm threads with a #19 drill and secured the screw with an AN363 metal stop nut. It's working well, better than the original setup I think. Pat ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Governor Problem - MT Governor > > Pat, > > You may want to replace it with a metric stainless steel socket head (Allen) > screw. They are available from our friendly Lowe's or Ace hardware. Then > drill the head for .022 safety wire. I have found over time that this > set-up works quite well. > > Mike Robertson > > > >From: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > >To: > >Subject: Re: RV-List: Governor Problem - MT Governor > >Date: Sat, 29 May 2004 19:01:39 -0400 > > > > > >Jordan, thanks for the reply. You know, on further inspection of some > >photographs that I have of the governor installation, it looks like the > >tabs > >are bent over. So now I'm wondering whether the arm just slipped off the > >shaft and then the bolt backed out. Not sure, but now I'm thinking about > >drilling the hole out for an AN3 bolt and using a castle nut on the other > >side. I am not a big fan of lock washers in an installation like this > >anyway. Also, this way I won't have to wait a week for a metric bolt to > >get > >here in the mail. I am still debating whether I want to do this or not or > >maybe even use a #8 screw with a metal stop nut. As you know, the arm is > >not very wide and an AN3 bolt might be too big. And obviously I would > >probably void the warranty if I go this route. Anyone have any thoughts on > >this? > > > >Pat > >----- Original Message ----- > >From: "Jordan Grant" <gra9933(at)bellsouth.net> > >To: > >Subject: RE: RV-List: Governor Problem - MT Governor > > > > > > > > > > Pat, > > > I recently installed my MT Governor. Like you said, it came with > > > instructions to set the arm to the proper clock position you want, then > >to > > > bend over the washer yourself. I think this is something that is easily > > > forgotten - especially if you don't need to reset the arm. I'm going to > > > write myself a note to remember to do that before I fly. > > > > > > Jordan Grant > > > RV-6 - Working on the fuel System > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > > > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Pat Hatch > > > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > > > Subject: RV-List: Governor Problem - MT Governor > > > > > > > > > > > > With about 19 hours on the -7, I had a problem this morning. On the > >runup > >I > > > noticed that there was no prop RPM drop off and it felt like there was > >no > > > resistance on the other end of the control cable. I went back to the > >hangar > > > and un-cowled and found the control arm and rod end resting on the shelf > >of > > > the firewall recess. The small metric bolt that held the control arm in > > > place had backed out and the arm had worked itself off the splined > >shaft. > > > To be honest, I am not sure that I checked to make sure the lock washer > >was > > > in place and properly installed. My assumption now is that the governor > > > probably came without the tabs on the lock washer bent--perhaps > >anticipating > > > having to re-clock the arm. But I'm not sure. Anyway, can anyone shine > >any > > > light on this, and does anyone have any suggestions on where one might > >find > > > one of these metric bolts? The bolt appears to be about the size of a > >#8 > > > screw. > > > > > > More importantly it might be a good idea to check your governor control > >arm > > > if you have the MT governor. The lock washer has a tab that bends over > >the > > > arm and another that bends in the opposite direction to capture the > >bolt. > > > > > > Pat Hatch > > > RV-4 > > > RV-6 > > > RV-7 All Flying > > > Vero Beach, FL > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com>
Subject: Digiflight II VS Autopilot
Date: May 30, 2004
I felt compelled to comment on this incredible autopilot after about 23 hours of test flying the -7. I have observed it holding a track, follow a GPS flight plan using GPSS steering, hold a rate of climb or descent, and hold an altitude. This autopilot is rock solid, smooth as silk, and I have not been able to upset it even flying in heavy turbulence. If you set a 500 fpm climb, it maintains 500 fpm precisely, etc. It has a different feel than an analog autopilot, no porpoising, instead the stepper motors give you a series of bumps that are very positive and precise. We'll see how well it holds up, but I suspect this company will provide good support. I expect they will have more good things coming. Pat (No connection of any kind to TRUTRAK) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: N223RV(at)aol.com
Date: May 30, 2004
Subject: Re: Brake fluid leak
Be sure the fittings are tight enough. I had 2 small leaks on my RV-4 braking system at first. I found out I could turn the fittings one more turn around and they both sealed. They seemed tight, but apparently not tight enough. No leaks for over 150 hours of flying. Maybe you have a similar situation. -Mike Kraus N223RV RV-4 Flying N213RV RV-10 Empennage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
Date: May 30, 2004
Subject: Re: Governor Problem - MT Governor
WILL YOU FUCK OFF EMAILING ME Thanks, Mike. I did something similar. I replaced it with a stainless #8 screw. I drilled out the 4mm threads with a #19 drill and secured the screw with an AN363 metal stop nut. It's working well, better than the original setup I think. Pat ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Robertson" Subject: Re: RV-List: Governor Problem - MT Governor > > Pat, > > You may want to replace it with a metric stainless steel socket head (Allen) > screw. They are available from our friendly Lowe's or Ace hardware. Then > drill the head for .022 safety wire. I have found over time that this > set-up works quite well. > > Mike Robertson > > > >From: "Pat Hatch" > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > >To: > >Subject: Re: RV-List: Governor Problem - MT Governor > >Date: Sat, 29 May 2004 19:01:39 -0400 > > > > > >Jordan, thanks for the reply. You know, on further inspection of some > >photographs that I have of the governor installation, it looks like the > >tabs > >are bent over. So now I'm wondering whether the arm just slipped off the > >shaft and then the bolt backed out. Not sure, but now I'm thinking about > >drilling the hole out for an AN3 bolt and using a castle nut on the other > >side. I am not a big fan of lock washers in an installation like this > >anyway. Also, this way I won't have to wait a week for a metric bolt to > >get > >here in the mail. I am still debating whether I want to do this or not or > >maybe even use a #8 screw with a metal stop nut. As you know, the arm is > >not very wide and an AN3 bolt might be too big. And obviously I would > >probably void the warranty if I go this route. Anyone have any thoughts on > >this? > > > >Pat > >----- Original Message ----- > >From: "Jordan Grant" > >To: > >Subject: RE: RV-List: Governor Problem - MT Governor > > > > > > > > > > Pat, > > > I recently installed my MT Governor. Like you said, it came with > > > instructions to set the arm to the proper clock position you want, then > >to > > > bend over the washer yourself. I think this is something that is easily > > > forgotten - especially if you don't need to reset the arm. I'm going to > > > write myself a note to remember to do that before I fly. > > > > > > Jordan Grant > > > RV-6 - Working on the fuel System > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > > > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Pat Hatch > > > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > > > Subject: RV-List: Governor Problem - MT Governor > > > > > > > > > > > > With about 19 hours on the -7, I had a problem this morning. On the > >runup > >I > > > noticed that there was no prop RPM drop off and it felt like there was > >no > > > resistance on the other end of the control cable. I went back to the > >hangar > > > and un-cowled and found the control arm and rod end resting on the shelf > >of > > > the firewall recess. The small metric bolt that held the control arm in > > > place had backed out and the arm had worked itself off the splined > >shaft. > > > To be honest, I am not sure that I checked to make sure the lock washer > >was > > > in place and properly installed. My assumption now is that the governor > > > probably came without the tabs on the lock washer bent--perhaps > >anticipating > > > having to re-clock the arm. But I'm not sure. Anyway, can anyone shine > >any > > > light on this, and does anyone have any suggestions on where one might > >find > > > one of these metric bolts? The bolt appears to be about the size of a > >#8 > > > screw. > > > > > > More importantly it might be a good idea to check your governor control > >arm > > > if you have the MT governor. The lock washer has a tab that bends over > >the > > > arm and another that bends in the opposite direction to capture the > >bolt. > > > > > > Pat Hatch > > > RV-4 > > > RV-6 > > > RV-7 All Flying > > > Vero Beach, FL > > > > > > > > > > > > --------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: Brake fluid leak
Date: May 30, 2004
You would be better served by removing the fitting and use a Teflon filled Teflon tape is not a very good idea. It works well for the 1st application but the 2nd application can and does push little pieces of the tape that will NOT dissolve but can plug small openings. A piece behind one of the o-rings will cause leaks and brake malfunctions. Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair Safety Programs Editor - TC EAA Sport Pilot ----- Original Message ----- From: "Austin" <austin(at)uniserve.com> Subject: RV-List: Brake fluid leak > > Listers, > I have a small brake fluid leak from the bottom 90 degree fitting on the side of my right rudder pedal. > This is the blue fitting going into the cylinder..low pressure. > Since turning this tighter will either strip the threads or have the tubing running off at an unacceptable angle, I was wondering if teflon tape on the thread will fix the problem, or will the fluid eventually eat the tape ? > What fix would you do ? > Regards, > Austin RV6A > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <dwhite17(at)columbus.rr.com>
Subject: RayAllen Stick Grips for Sale
Date: May 30, 2004
I have a two Ray Allen Stick Grips for sale. 1 G101 and 1 G205. Both are wired and ready to install into your stick. Sell both for $90.00 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: Brake fluid leak
Date: May 30, 2004
Austin, I had a similar situation, a leaky brass fitting on my brake cylinder. In my limited experience, I found that using Loctite 565 (white teflon pipe thread sealant paste) works great on pipe threads in the brake system, and I also use it on nylon pipe threads in the pitot/static system (as recommended by a pro when I had my IFR pitot/static check done). http://www.loctite.com/int_henkel/loctite_us/?layout=6&productline=565 On pipe threads in the fuel system, I always use EZ-Turn (fuelube). http://www.aircraftspruce.com/nsearch.php?s=ez+turn On pipe threads in the oil system, I use Permatex Form-a-Gasket #2 (http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/permatexprod.php) in some spots, teflon tape in others (i.e. oil cooler fittings, as recommended by Pacific Oil Coolers). When I was building my -7 I was dumbfounded at the lack of a definitive reference on how to lube pipe threads properly. I read too many conflicting recommendations. Anyway, the info above is what I've settled on over time, gospel to me now. Hope this helps, )_( Dan RV-7 N714D http://www.rvproject.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Austin" <austin(at)uniserve.com> Subject: RV-List: Brake fluid leak > > Listers, > I have a small brake fluid leak from the bottom 90 degree fitting on the side of my right rudder pedal. > This is the blue fitting going into the cylinder..low pressure. > Since turning this tighter will either strip the threads or have the tubing running off at an unacceptable angle, I was wondering if teflon tape on the thread will fix the problem, or will the fluid eventually eat the tape ? > What fix would you do ? > Regards, > Austin RV6A > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Anglin" <jlanglin44(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Diode on starter relay (solenoid)
Date: May 30, 2004
I have my HR II all wired and my neighbor showed me a wiring diagram of a starter solenoid with a diode between the S terminal and ground. I have owned 3 planes that didn't have this. What is the thinking behind this? I also have Van's RV-8 wiring schematic that comes with the wiring kit and it doesn't call out a diode. However, the diagram I saw with the diode was from Van's. ????????? Jim HR-II #153 flying soon............ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: May 31, 2004
Subject: Re: Diode on starter relay (solenoid)
In a message dated 5/30/2004 10:59:52 PM Pacific Daylight Time, jlanglin44(at)earthlink.net writes: I have my HR II all wired and my neighbor showed me a wiring diagram of a starter solenoid with a diode between the S terminal and ground. I have owned 3 planes that didn't have this. What is the thinking behind this? I also have Van's RV-8 wiring schematic that comes with the wiring kit and it doesn't call out a diode. However, the diagram I saw with the diode was from Van's. -------------------------------------------------------- It's called a catch diode and helps to safely dissipate the relay primary electromagnetic field and reduce switch contact arcing and pitting when you release the key switch from the starter position. GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 701 hrs; last trip, Sedona) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: Diode on starter relay (solenoid)
Date: May 31, 2004
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1086003353-510-210&bro wse=electrical&product=diodes - Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com > -----Original Message----- > From: Jim Anglin [mailto:jlanglin44(at)earthlink.net] > Sent: Monday, May 31, 2004 1:51 AM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Diode on starter relay (solenoid) > > > > I have my HR II all wired and my neighbor showed me a wiring > diagram of a starter solenoid with a diode between the S > terminal and ground. I have owned 3 planes that didn't have > this. What is the thinking behind this? I also have Van's > RV-8 wiring schematic that comes with the wiring kit and it > doesn't call out a diode. However, the diagram I saw with > the diode was from Van's. > > ????????? > > Jim > HR-II #153 flying soon............ > > > =========== > Matronics Forums. > =========== > =========== > =========== > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 31, 2004
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Slobovia Outernational Airport BBQ
Five days to BBQ DAY. Please plan to visit with us, eat some BBQ & talk airplanes. Location: Slobovia Outernational Airport (MS71) 10 mi north of Jackson MS on the Memphis sectional Approx. 4000' usable with decent approaches. Email me direct for a map if you are driving. (Don't trust the online mapping services for this one.) You are welcome to come for the day, or stay the weekend. Just throw a bedroll in the plane/car & we'll find you a place to sleep that's out of the heat. If you plan to overnight, please call us at 601-879-9596 or drop us an email at ceengland(at)bellsouth.net so we can get breakfast stuff lined up. If you've never done any a/c metal work, you can come & play with drills & rivet guns. Alternative engine discussions will probably revolve around the Mazda rotary. (Sorry 'bout that. :-) ) No formal seminars, but lots of knowledge is in the air when we have these events. Come on down! Charlie Slobovia Outernational Airport ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fred Stucklen" <wstucklen1(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: cowl mysterious pustules
Date: May 31, 2004
Richard, Are you sure it's not the paint on the cowl that is blistering? I had one small bubble on my RV-6A cowl after running the engine the first time. It turned out to be a small blister in the paint, probably due to some trapped air in the fiberglass. I found that pricking it with a needle and letting it breath solved the problem.. Fred Stucklen RV-6A N926RV From: "Richard V. Reynolds" <rvreynolds(at)macs.net> Subject: cowl mysterious pustules After about 6 hours of test flights, my upper cowl has developed three mysterious pustules or blisters. My RV-6A cowl is about 5 years old and is of the "new" epoxy honeycomb construction. The inside was finished with a very thin coat of WEST epoxy and a high temperature white urethane enamel. The outside was finished with a urethane enamel. The cowl was finished last November in Norfolk, VA, and it has been stored in the hangar. The three blisters are are about 1 x 3, 1 x 2, and 1 x 2 , all about 1/8 high. There are corresponding blisters on the inside. The first two are located at the rear baffling line and the third one is located between cylinders 1-3 . It appears that the epoxy glass coating has lifted of the honeycomb but I have not pressed so hard as to pop them. The surface of the blister is "firm", not real soft and squeshy. Any thoughts??? Richard Reynolds, Norfolk, VA, RV-6A, N841RV, Flying, 7.8 hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BBreckenridge(at)att.net
Subject: Home Wing Fly-In
Date: May 31, 2004
Anyone planning on showing up? http://www.edt.com/homewing/nwflyin.html Bruce Breckenridge RV-10 NOT flying, still crated ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott Diffenbaugh" <diff(at)foothill.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List Digest: 19 Msgs - 05/30/04
Date: May 31, 2004
From: JhnstnIII(at)aol.com Subject: RV-List: drawing 25 and firewall penetrations and 0-360 Listers--Have checked the archives and can't find this one. Does anyone know if the firewall penetration locations on drawing 25 (RV-6) work for the 0-360 A1A? Thanks. --LeRoy Johnston, Columbus, OH, RV-6, firewall forward. Leroy- Personally, I would not drill any penetrations or mount anything on the inside or outside of the firewall (including stiffners, doublers, etc) until I had my engine and all accessories mounted ( including the electrical system). Fortunately we had not drilled too many holes and therefore were able to align things much better than the drawings showed. Scott Diffenbaugh diff(at)foothill.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JhnstnIII(at)aol.com
Date: May 31, 2004
Subject: Re: RE: RV-List Digest: 19 Msgs - 05/30/04
Thanks Scott. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 31, 2004
From: Stuart B McCurdy <sturdy(at)att.net>
Subject: P-51C Off Field Landing
Anyone know anything about this? Was it Doug Rozendaal in Red Tail? How is he? Please respond directly to my email rather than to the List.. From AvFlash(31 May 04)....."A Commemorative Air Force P-51C made an emergency off-field landing during an air show near Red Wing, Minn., on Saturday. The pilot was airlifted to hospital but his condition wasn't known at our deadline, nor was the fate of the aircraft, one of just four flying..." Stu McCurdy ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 31, 2004
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: P-51C Off Field Landing
Stuart B McCurdy wrote: > > Anyone know anything about this? Was it Doug Rozendaal in Red Tail? > How is he? Please respond directly to my email rather than to the List.. > > From AvFlash(31 May 04)....."A Commemorative Air Force P-51C made an > emergency off-field landing during an air show near Red Wing, Minn., on > Saturday. The pilot was airlifted to hospital but his condition wasn't > known at our deadline, nor was the fate of the aircraft, one of just > four flying..." > > Stu McCurdy It was not Doug. The pilot died yesterday. Sam Buchanan ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 31, 2004
From: Henry Hochberg <aeroncadoc(at)comcast.net>
BODY": HTML.title.contains.no.text(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: P-51C Off Field Landing 0.1 HTML_TITLE_EMPTY
Pilot's name was Don Hinz, and he did not survive the crash. Henry H. Stuart B McCurdy wrote: > >Anyone know anything about this? Was it Doug Rozendaal in Red Tail? >How is he? Please respond directly to my email rather than to the List.. > > From AvFlash(31 May 04)....."A Commemorative Air Force P-51C made an >emergency off-field landing during an air show near Red Wing, Minn., on >Saturday. The pilot was airlifted to hospital but his condition wasn't >known at our deadline, nor was the fate of the aircraft, one of just >four flying..." > >Stu McCurdy > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com>
Subject: Re: Bakersfield EAA BBQ
Date: May 31, 2004
Glad to hear it. Quite a few of the SoCal bunch should show up then. Laird On May 30, 2004, at 11:01 AM, Russell Lamb wrote: > > > Laird, > > It is just like the old days no cars, no motorcycles and no RC planes. > It will be just fly in and BBQ. > > Russell > > Tim, > > Are you doing this in conjunction with the car show and RC models > like you did awhile back or is it like the old days, just a fly-in? > > Laird > > > _- > ======================================================================= > _- > ======================================================================= > _- > ======================================================================= > _- > ======================================================================= > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com>
Subject: Re: P-51C Off Field Landing
Date: May 31, 2004
It was not me. I was flying the B-25 landing and Don Hinz was flying the Redtail. He said he was losing the engine, Larry Lumpkin was on the ground in the Gunfighter and told Don to turn on the boost pump, I said get the prop back, Don said, that is all done. Larry said, Fly it to the ground Don, Fly it to the ground." That is exactly what he did. The airplane landed in a wings level low speed low angle condition, as survivable as it could be. He hit one tree which took off one wing, and then another which spun him around and the airplane came to rest on it right side with both wings severed. The Crash crews were there with in 4 minutes. Larry took off imeadiately to locate the wreckage incase the crash crews could not find it, and by the time he was overhead they were there. Gerry Beck came down this morning and went with the FAA to the wreckage. Early indications are that the V drive which powers the cam failed. Both cams would quit turning and there was nothing that Don could have done but fly it to the ground. He did that. Your thoughts and prayer for his family are appreciated. Don would never forgive us if we let this setback stop the Redtail project which he gave the last 10 years, and ultimately his life for. With a million bucks and 18 months we could be flying again. Don would want that. Wish us luck. You can learn more at www.redtail.org Tailwinds, Doug Rozendaal ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com>
Subject: Re: bearing material
Date: May 31, 2004
On May 28, 2004, at 11:42 PM, Wheeler North wrote: > > Laird, > > big bummer, That's for sure..... > > Obviously don't run the engine at all, but its really unusual to see > bearing > wear this early in the life of a proven engine. RV's already grounded. Engine is out > > Was there a lot of metal? 2 or 3 flecks of bearing material per pleat in the filter > > Lycoming has a sb on the 100% replacement items during OH, but its a > long > list. The downside is things like cams and lifter bodies tend to go > after > TBO so now you are in the quandry of dealing with that in another 1000 > hours > again, given that they pass muster now. > > Its true that there are service limits and new limits, but the service > limits aren't that great, and on many parts you will not reach TBO by > using > them. > > I'm not convinced you yet know what caused the premature failure or > where it > is specifically. May never know > > One option is to pull the cylinders and see if its a con bearing. If > so, and > the metal load was very low, then your bottom end mains may be ok. In > this > case the OH is just a disassembly, clean, replace all bearings and > seals and > reassemble. > > The other thing that I don't yet know is was there any other > contaminants > such as silicon or steel. Bearings can be wiped by failing things like > an > oil pump, or a bad air filter letting a lot of dirt in. This latter > will > usually show up as poor compresion first though. > > Re shops, Lycon does seem to be the best in our sorta local area, to > which > I've never heard of a complaint. This is definately an area where you > get > what you pay for, but paying big bucks doesn't ensure that. Take the > time to > have a long conversation with them. If they know their stuff they will > grant > you that luxury. Most good pros know that this is a part of running a > good > business and maintaining a strong reputation. > > I would also add that you are more than competent to tear this down > your > self and explore it some more, and in fact, possibly repair it your > self. > I've built a lot of aircraft and automotive engines, and like anything > else, > taking your time, getting good info, borrowing the right tools when > you need > them, etc will produce a good job and you will gain from the > experience. > > And worse case, if you tear it down and all looks nasty, box it up and > mail > it off. But at least you will be confident at that point that it really > needed a full OH. Pop and thought about it but decided to just let Lycon do the work. It'll get delivered to them tomorrow. > > > I'd be happy to pop up and look at it once you got it apart, or > anytime for > that matter. > > W Thanks for the offer. Laird > > > From: Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com> > Subject: RV-List: Questions For An Overhaul Shop > > > Hi all, > > So much for having TOO much fun in the Bahamas last month. > > After I got home from the trip, I changed the oil and found metal in > the oil filter. 950 TTSN, in 3 years. Lycoming confirmed it was > bearing material. %$#@!!! There were no symptoms during the last > flights, such as low oil pressure (75psi warm) or vibration. I had just > finished flying 45 hrs in the previous 2 weeks, with nothing in the > filter on the last oil change. > > At this point I'm not interested in doing the overhaul myself, even > assisted, so I'm looking for a shop to do an overhaul to get back > flying. > > Right now I've got some shops in my mind (including Aero Sport) but I'm > not quite sure how to approach them. > > How do I approach these companies to compare prices to get an "apples > to apples comparison. I'm sure they'd want to look at the engine > before making any quote. I can't send them all the engine. I want to > make sure I look around to get a warm fuzzy when I end up sending it > someone and parting with the next 5 years of my expendable income. > > Would asking them for a quote on their labor costs for a "standard" > (whatever that is) overhaul would be the right way to do it?. Or a > quote on an overhaul with all parts assumed good, like crankcase, > crank, cam, pistons and cylinders. (I know that there will be some > components that'll need replacing, but with a 1000hr motor since new, > there should be a lot of good parts, except what has been damaged from > the bearing giving up.) > > Any other ideas? > > Since this is the first experience with this kind of experience, any > suggestions would be welcomed. > > TIA, > Laird RV-6 > > > _- > ======================================================================= > _- > ======================================================================= > _- > ======================================================================= > _- > ======================================================================= > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cory Emberson" <bootless(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: P-51C Off Field Landing
Date: May 31, 2004
Hello Doug, Thank you for posting this, and my thoughts and prayers go up for Don and his family. I read about this on another forum, and the unanimous opinion was that he was indeed a hero for avoiding the populated area. I will spread the word for the Redtail project. best, Cory > > It was not me. I was flying the B-25 landing and Don Hinz was flying the > Redtail. He said he was losing the engine, Larry Lumpkin was on the ground > in the Gunfighter and told Don to turn on the boost pump, I said get the > prop back, Don said, that is all > done. Larry said, Fly it to the ground Don, Fly it to the ground." > > That is exactly what he did. > > The airplane landed in a wings level low speed low angle condition, as > survivable as it could be. He hit one tree which took off one wing, and then > another which spun him around and the airplane came to rest on it right side > with both wings severed. > > The Crash crews were there with in 4 minutes. Larry took off imeadiately to > locate the wreckage incase the crash crews could not find it, and by the > time he was overhead they were there. > > Gerry Beck came down this morning and went with the FAA to the wreckage. > Early indications are that the V drive which powers the cam failed. Both > cams would quit turning and there was nothing that Don could have done but > fly it to the ground. He did that. > > Your thoughts and prayer for his family are appreciated. Don would never > forgive us if we let this setback stop the Redtail project which he gave the > last 10 years, and ultimately his life for. With a million bucks and 18 > months we could be flying again. Don would want that. Wish us luck. You can > learn more at www.redtail.org > > > Tailwinds, > Doug Rozendaal > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Anglin" <jlanglin44(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Home Wing Fly-In
Date: May 31, 2004
I'll be there but then I only live 20 min away............. Jim ----- Original Message ----- From: <BBreckenridge(at)att.net> Subject: RV-List: Home Wing Fly-In > > Anyone planning on showing up? > > http://www.edt.com/homewing/nwflyin.html > > Bruce Breckenridge > RV-10 NOT flying, still crated > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 31, 2004
From: Finn Lassen <finn.lassen(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Facet fuel pump failure
As usual before staring the engine, I turned on both my 40105 facet fuel pumps. However, for the first time in 460+ hours, one of them did not start. I checked voltage across red/black wires to the pump and had 12.7 volts. Ohm-ing across those two wires (power disconnected) I got some 27K ohms. Seems awfully high. Tapped the pump with a screwdriver and reconnected power and it started up. A couple of times in flight I have noticed momentary pressure drops. (I have a fuel filter before the pumps. No engine driven pump. Filter replaced in the last 25 hours.) Is it possible to have an intermittent failure mode in these pumps? Archive search only mentions complete failure (transistor blown). Appeared form one posting that one could take them apart and put back together again - or should I simple order a new pump? Finn ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 31, 2004
Subject: [ Matt Dralle ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Matt Dralle Subject: WWII Bombers at Livermore California - May 31 2004 http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/dralle@matronics.com.05.31.2004/index.html o Main Photo Share Index http://www.matronics.com/photoshare o Submitting a Photo Share If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the following information along with your email message and files: 1) Email List or Lists that they are related to: 2) Your Full Name: 3) Your Email Address: 4) One line Subject description: 5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic: 6) One-line Description of each photo or file: Email the information above and your files and photos to: pictures(at)matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com>
Subject: Re: P-51C Off Field Landing
Date: May 31, 2004
Thanks for you thoughts, what forum did you read about it? Doug ----- Original Message ----- From: "Cory Emberson" <bootless(at)earthlink.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: P-51C Off Field Landing > > Hello Doug, > > Thank you for posting this, and my thoughts and prayers go up for Don and > his family. I read about this on another forum, and the unanimous opinion > was that he was indeed a hero for avoiding the populated area. > > I will spread the word for the Redtail project. > > best, Cory > > > > > It was not me. I was flying the B-25 landing and Don Hinz was flying the > > Redtail. He said he was losing the engine, Larry Lumpkin was on the ground > > in the Gunfighter and told Don to turn on the boost pump, I said get the > > prop back, Don said, that is all > > done. Larry said, Fly it to the ground Don, Fly it to the ground." > > > > That is exactly what he did. > > > > The airplane landed in a wings level low speed low angle condition, as > > survivable as it could be. He hit one tree which took off one wing, and > then > > another which spun him around and the airplane came to rest on it right > side > > with both wings severed. > > > > The Crash crews were there with in 4 minutes. Larry took off imeadiately > to > > locate the wreckage incase the crash crews could not find it, and by the > > time he was overhead they were there. > > > > Gerry Beck came down this morning and went with the FAA to the wreckage. > > Early indications are that the V drive which powers the cam failed. Both > > cams would quit turning and there was nothing that Don could have done but > > fly it to the ground. He did that. > > > > Your thoughts and prayer for his family are appreciated. Don would never > > forgive us if we let this setback stop the Redtail project which he gave > the > > last 10 years, and ultimately his life for. With a million bucks and 18 > > months we could be flying again. Don would want that. Wish us luck. You > can > > learn more at www.redtail.org > > > > > > Tailwinds, > > Doug Rozendaal > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WILLMINCEY(at)aol.com
Date: May 31, 2004
Subject: Re: cowl mysterious pustules
Richard, Sorry to hear about your cowl bumps. I have the same problem. It started after some glass rework. The only way to stop the swelling was prick/drill a small hole through one side to relieve the pressure. It would be better if you could go into the cavity from the inside because it will continue to create a liquid drainage. This is what happens when the proper amount of hardener is not used in the layup. I made the mistake of a small hole on the outside. Its been draining/streaking the cowl every flight now for four years, believe it or not. You would thing that it would eventually disappear, but heat from the exhaust pipes causes flow during each flight. Not being a glassworker, I live with the wipedown after each flight. If you find an easy/quick fix I would like to know also. Thanks Will Mincey RV3 81TD ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 01, 2004
From: Matt Jurotich <mjurotich(at)hst.nasa.gov>
Subject: Electric Fuel Pump
My electric fuel pump "Facet?" is on the engine side of the firewall. Been there for 325 hours. One on my friends said the firewall side is too hot and may cause the pump to not work when you need it. What do you fuel system wizards say? O360 with mechanical pump on engine. Thanks Matthew M. Jurotich NASA/Goddard Space Flight Center Swales contractor to the JWST ISIM Systems Engineer m/c : 443 e-mail mail to: phone : 301-286-5919 fax : 301-286-7021 JWST URL: <http://ngst1.gsfc.nasa.gov ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 01, 2004
From: Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Electric Fuel Pump
I'd say a 325-hour installation makes you something of an "expert". Any problems so far? If not, why mess with success? - Mike Matt Jurotich wrote: My electric fuel pump "Facet?" is on the engine side of the firewall. Been there for 325 hours. One on my friends said the firewall side is too hot and may cause the pump to not work when you need it. What do you fuel system wizards say? O360 with mechanical pump on engine. Michael E. Thompson (Grobdriver(at)yahoo.com) Austin, TX, USA RV-6 N140RV, FLYING! Ex-AX1 Sub Hunter, P-3 (B/B-TACMOD/C) Orion Aircrew, PP-G,ASEL, Motorglider Driver and Unlimited Air Race Nut! --------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Barnes" <meangreenrv4(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Bakersfield EAA BBQ
Date: Jun 01, 2004
Just like the old days Laird....Fly In, 1:00 pm BBQ $10.00, Hangar talk. Hope to see you there. >From: Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: Bakersfield EAA BBQ >Date: Fri, 28 May 2004 15:14:39 -0700 > > >Tim, > >Are you doing this in conjunction with the car show and RC models like >you did awhile back or is it like the old days, just a fly-in? > >Laird > >On May 28, 2004, at 2:10 PM, Tim Barnes wrote: > > > > > > > Chapter 71 BBQ will be held June 5, @ L45 (Bakersfield Muni) There are > > a few > > things that we will try to approve on, this year we will serve at > > 1:00pm, > > the cost is only $ 10.00. Lots of planes and hangar talk. So if you > > will be > > going to Merced this year fly over to L45 and get a Tri-Tip lunch, > > visit > > with old friends or make some new ones. If you still have some > > questions you > > can call (661) 836-1028 > > > > Get 200+ ad-free, high-fidelity stations and LIVE Major League Baseball > > Gameday Audio! > > http://radio.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200491ave/direct/01/ > > > > > > _- > > ====================================================================== > > _- > > ====================================================================== > > _- > > ====================================================================== > > _- > > ====================================================================== > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fred Kunkel" <rvator(at)socal.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Bakersfield EAA BBQ
Date: Jun 01, 2004
Hello again Tim, Better yet, give me a call at 888-777-1650. Thanks! Fred ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Barnes" <meangreenrv4(at)hotmail.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Bakersfield EAA BBQ > > Just like the old days Laird....Fly In, 1:00 pm BBQ $10.00, Hangar talk. > Hope to see you there. > > > >From: Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com> > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > >Subject: Re: RV-List: Bakersfield EAA BBQ > >Date: Fri, 28 May 2004 15:14:39 -0700 > > > > > >Tim, > > > >Are you doing this in conjunction with the car show and RC models like > >you did awhile back or is it like the old days, just a fly-in? > > > >Laird > > > >On May 28, 2004, at 2:10 PM, Tim Barnes wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > Chapter 71 BBQ will be held June 5, @ L45 (Bakersfield Muni) There are > > > a few > > > things that we will try to approve on, this year we will serve at > > > 1:00pm, > > > the cost is only $ 10.00. Lots of planes and hangar talk. So if you > > > will be > > > going to Merced this year fly over to L45 and get a Tri-Tip lunch, > > > visit > > > with old friends or make some new ones. If you still have some > > > questions you > > > can call (661) 836-1028 > > > > > > Get 200+ ad-free, high-fidelity stations and LIVE Major League Baseball > > > Gameday Audio! > > > http://radio.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200491ave/direct/01/ > > > > > > > > > _- > > > ====================================================================== > > > _- > > > ====================================================================== > > > _- > > > ====================================================================== > > > _- > > > ====================================================================== > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 01, 2004
From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: Re: Completions
I had always assumed that they rejected some of the RVs that are completed so that they can at least show *some* of the other kits. >Did anybody notice that the completions section in the June issue of "Sport >Aviation" is 100 percent RV instead of the usual 90 percent or so? Thirteen >planes. I don't know whether to be happy or sad about that. The things are >so good they are getting way too common. Shoot, there were about 8 of 'em >parked on the ramp at my small town this weekend. We've got a grand total of three flying RVs in the whole country, and less that 10 under construction. Fly yours here and you'll be real special! :-) I have to say, I'd really love to be able to drive down to the airport and look at another RV8 during those times when I get stuck. -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com>
Subject: Duel electric fuel pumps
Date: Jun 01, 2004
Hey gang.. I have a 320-D2J that doesn't have a fuel pump (nor a pad for one) on it that is going in my RV-9A. I've swapped numerous emails with Mahlon at Mattituck (Thanks!) about exchanging the accesorry case for one with a pump pad on it in order to drive a mechanical pump. I'm curious if anyone has experience running duel electric pumps. What are the pros/cons of this type of setup. It's going to cost me on the order of $750 to get a mechanical pump installed on my D2J ($250 accessory case swap/$136 drive pin/$100 idler gear/$248 fuel pump). ACS has the electric facet fuel pumps that deliver 4-6psi with the AN fitting for $35.60. (At that price I could replace often and have redundancy.) PROS: Lighweight, inexpensive, saves me $$$. CONS: Electric, life expectency? A properly designed electrical system would all but eliminate the problem of the pump being electric in case of electrical failure. Thoughts? Matthew Brandes, Van's RV-9A (Wings/Fuselage) EAA Chapter 868/91/1329 www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 01, 2004
From: Frederick Oldenburg <foldenburg(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Lesson Learned
I recently acquired a CP-214 Pneumatic squeezer. The squeezer has an adjustable set holder. Having no prior experience with a pneumatic, I dove in with both feet on my rudder spar last night. With a hand squeezer I had been setting the dimple die so that the dies were completely flush with each other (i.e. no space at all between the dies). This seemed to work well....I'd get a crisp dimple and little or no deformation around it. Well, after trying this same setting with the pneumatic I discovered that there was a "fluting effect" because the pneumatic is so strong it was bending the metal slightly. My rudder spar was now bowed slightly, like a rib would be before fluting it....maybe 1/4" or so when you lay it flat on a table. Well, in my typical gorilla ham-fisted manner I thought I could "gently" flex it back somewhat. Wrong! I ended up kinking it slightly. Tried to fix it with a hand seamer until good reason took hold of me.... I ordered a new one from Van this morning. I will most definitely be practicing a little more with the pneumatic (on scrap) as I wait for the new spar to arrive.... Fred Oldenburg RV-7A - Empennage http://www.rv.oldsack.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 01, 2004
From: David Nelson <david.nelson(at)pobox.com>
Subject: Re: Lesson Learned
Hi Fred, From the sound of it, I ran into this same problem when I started building. However, it was because I wasn't squeezing enough. I usually give an additional half or one full turn of the set holder to compensate for any flex in the yoke. You'll know when you have a good dimple when there's a ring around the outside of where the dies meet up. I also noticed that the reflection in the aluminum of something with crisp lines (I used my truck bumber's reflection for example) was not nearly as distorted as when the dimples were not properly made. Made for very quick litmus test if I failed to properly set any dimples. Finally, compare a dimple made with the c-frame (using a good solid foundation and several good wacks) and your pneumatic. You'll see what I'm talking about. I've got a picture I can send you as an attachment if you wish to make sure that we're talking about the same thing. Regards, /\/elson Austin, TX RV-7A - Wings - Getting ready to build the wing jig/holder On Tue, 1 Jun 2004, Frederick Oldenburg wrote: > > I recently acquired a CP-214 Pneumatic squeezer. The squeezer has an > adjustable set holder. Having no prior experience with a pneumatic, I dove in > with both feet on my rudder spar last night. With a hand squeezer I had been > setting the dimple die so that the dies were completely flush with each other > (i.e. no space at all between the dies). This seemed to work well....I'd get > a crisp dimple and little or no deformation around it. > > Well, after trying this same setting with the pneumatic I discovered that > there was a "fluting effect" because the pneumatic is so strong it was > bending the metal slightly. My rudder spar was now bowed slightly, like a rib > would be before fluting it....maybe 1/4" or so when you lay it flat on a > table. > > Well, in my typical gorilla ham-fisted manner I thought I could "gently" flex > it back somewhat. Wrong! I ended up kinking it slightly. Tried to fix it with > a hand seamer until good reason took hold of me.... > > I ordered a new one from Van this morning. > > I will most definitely be practicing a little more with the pneumatic (on > scrap) as I wait for the new spar to arrive.... > > > Fred Oldenburg > RV-7A - Empennage > http://www.rv.oldsack.com > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Oldsfolks(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 01, 2004
Subject: >Re; Lesson learned
The pneumatic squeezer I used had to have the air pressure properly adjusted to squeeze just right. It was an Alligator type. The "C" frame adjusts the height of the die. You're lucky if you only have to replace that much. I ruined the HS skeletin and two skins on my first one. Keep working and learning, Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor Charleston,Arkansas Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Comp User" <trebla(at)directinter.net>
Date: Jun 01, 2004
Subject: Re: Duel electric fuel pumps
I changed from a single Facet fuel pump to a dual setup. They are hooked up in series. Totally seperate electrical control from the buss. This even includes the ground. They will free flow so you can run either one. They can be checked on the ground before flight by switching back and forth between the two. Switching on both jumps the fuel pressure up and helps the starts on chilly mornings. The origional install location was engine side of the firewall. Had terrible vapor lock. My pump gave the warning signs when it started to fail. Short time, around 5 hrs. Not common. High pressure then low. The internal valve wore on one side. Would seal when turned just right. I must confess, I do not have an RV. It is my next project. Flying a Mod. 5 Kitfox with an NSI 140turbo right now. Albert Smith MudLake, Idaho ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 01, 2004
Subject: Re: Duel electric fuel pumps
In a message dated 6/1/2004 2:04:24 PM Pacific Daylight Time, matthew(at)n523rv.com writes: I have a 320-D2J that doesn't have a fuel pump (nor a pad for one) on it that is going in my RV-9A. I've swapped numerous emails with Mahlon at Mattituck (Thanks!) about exchanging the accesorry case for one with a pump pad on it in order to drive a mechanical pump. I'm curious if anyone has experience running duel electric pumps. What are the pros/cons of this type of setup. ------------------------------------------------ My buddy, Walter Treadwell runs this setup in his Alley Cat. The Alley Cat is a highly altered Super Cat and has a Continental O-200 with no mechanical fuel pumping provisions up front. He has two identical Facet pumps with check valves plumbed in parallel. One is running all the time and one is the boost. Works great! GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 702 hrs; last trip, Sedona) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Duel electric fuel pumps
Date: Jun 02, 2004
Hi Matthew, I'd buy the Best fuel pumps available and run the wiring by Bob Nuckolls. Personally I'd spend the $$ for the engine fuel pump and still use the Best electirc pump I could find. For what it's worth on our IO-360 we have a engine driven fuel pump and our electric boost (which cost about $500 as I remember). Good building, Chuck Rowbotham RV-8A (300 hrs) >From: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: RV-List: Duel electric fuel pumps >Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2004 16:00:38 -0500 > > >Hey gang.. I have a 320-D2J that doesn't have a fuel pump (nor a pad for >one) on it that is going in my RV-9A. I've swapped numerous emails with >Mahlon at Mattituck (Thanks!) about exchanging the accesorry case for one >with a pump pad on it in order to drive a mechanical pump. > >I'm curious if anyone has experience running duel electric pumps. What are >the pros/cons of this type of setup. > >It's going to cost me on the order of $750 to get a mechanical pump >installed on my D2J ($250 accessory case swap/$136 drive pin/$100 idler >gear/$248 fuel pump). > >ACS has the electric facet fuel pumps that deliver 4-6psi with the AN >fitting for $35.60. (At that price I could replace often and have >redundancy.) > >PROS: Lighweight, inexpensive, saves me $$$. >CONS: Electric, life expectency? > >A properly designed electrical system would all but eliminate the problem >of >the pump being electric in case of electrical failure. > >Thoughts? > >Matthew Brandes, >Van's RV-9A (Wings/Fuselage) >EAA Chapter 868/91/1329 >www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/> > > Looking to buy a house? Get informed with the Home Buying Guide from MSN House & Home. http://coldwellbanker.msn.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: pneumatic squeezers
Date: Jun 02, 2004
From: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu>
SNIP Well, after trying this same setting with the pneumatic I discovered that there was a "fluting effect" because the pneumatic is so strong it was bending the metal slightly. My rudder spar was now bowed slightly, like a rib would be before fluting it....maybe 1/4" or so when you lay it flat on a table. SNIP In my experience, never use a pneumatic squeezer on hinge material unless you want a useless, banana shaped part. And always, always make sure that you have rounded the edges of your dies with your Scotchbrite wheel to avoid unsightly rings. Vince ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Imfairings(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 02, 2004
Subject: Down side of Reporting Spam
Good Morning, Apparently one of my email addresses, bob@fairings-etc.com has been "JoeJobbed". As I understand it I was randomly picked by the spammers to be "JoeJobbed" as a get even tactic. This means they are sending out emails using my @fairings-etc.com. If you get an email from any address other than bob@fairings-etc.com please be advised it is not from me. My imfairings(at)aol.com seems not to have been hit. Bob Fairings-Etc 623-203-9795 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Duel electric fuel pumps
Date: Jun 02, 2004
I would work but I would make sure that the second fuel pump is running on a dedicated backup battery. Mike Robertson >From: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: RV-List: Duel electric fuel pumps >Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2004 16:00:38 -0500 > > >Hey gang.. I have a 320-D2J that doesn't have a fuel pump (nor a pad for >one) on it that is going in my RV-9A. I've swapped numerous emails with >Mahlon at Mattituck (Thanks!) about exchanging the accesorry case for one >with a pump pad on it in order to drive a mechanical pump. > >I'm curious if anyone has experience running duel electric pumps. What are >the pros/cons of this type of setup. > >It's going to cost me on the order of $750 to get a mechanical pump >installed on my D2J ($250 accessory case swap/$136 drive pin/$100 idler >gear/$248 fuel pump). > >ACS has the electric facet fuel pumps that deliver 4-6psi with the AN >fitting for $35.60. (At that price I could replace often and have >redundancy.) > >PROS: Lighweight, inexpensive, saves me $$$. >CONS: Electric, life expectency? > >A properly designed electrical system would all but eliminate the problem >of >the pump being electric in case of electrical failure. > >Thoughts? > >Matthew Brandes, >Van's RV-9A (Wings/Fuselage) >EAA Chapter 868/91/1329 >www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 02, 2004
From: Brian Alley <n320wt(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Modifying RV6 chin scoop
Before spending a bunch of money, Try making your own!!! I've made several small fairings buy using aluminum screen to form the shape, smear it with 5 minute epoxy after you get the shape close . Do minor body work with bond and after waxing this form, layup several layers of glass cloth with resin. Remove the part from the form and install just like it came from Vans!!! This is a quick and easy way to make small parts. ==== BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT) CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES 304-872-7938 shop 304-562-6800 home How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck? ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Down side of Reporting Spam
Date: Jun 02, 2004
From: "Rabaut, Chuck" <Chuck.Rabaut(at)fresnosheriff.org>
Bob, I'm sorry you've been "gotten" too. You've always been great to work with, very reasonably priced, and honest as the day is long. I wish I dealt with more people/businesses like you. BTW, the fairings you made for my RV-4 still look/fit/work great. Take care, Chuck -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Imfairings(at)aol.com Subject: RV-List: Down side of Reporting Spam Good Morning, Apparently one of my email addresses, bob@fairings-etc.com has been "JoeJobbed". As I understand it I was randomly picked by the spammers to be "JoeJobbed" as a get even tactic. This means they are sending out emails using my @fairings-etc.com. If you get an email from any address other than bob@fairings-etc.com please be advised it is not from me. My imfairings(at)aol.com seems not to have been hit. Bob Fairings-Etc 623-203-9795 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 02, 2004
From: "Dr. Peter Laurence" <dr.laurence(at)mbdi.org>
Subject: Re: pneumatic squeezers
Vince I used my pneumatic squeezer on my empennage spars with no problem. The trick is to pay very close attention as the sets engage and make sure that the squeezer is perpendicular to the surface. Peter From: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> Subject: RV-List: pneumatic squeezers > > SNIP Well, after trying this same setting with the pneumatic I > discovered that there > was a "fluting effect" because the pneumatic is so strong it was bending > the > metal slightly. My rudder spar was now bowed slightly, like a rib would > be before > fluting it....maybe 1/4" or so when you lay it flat on a table. SNIP > > In my experience, never use a pneumatic squeezer on hinge material > unless you want a useless, banana shaped part. > > And always, always make sure that you have rounded the edges of your > dies with your Scotchbrite wheel to avoid unsightly rings. > > Vince > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jerry Hansen" <jerry-hansen(at)cox.net>
Subject: Space date set for Rutan SpaceShipOnce
Date: Jun 02, 2004
Read about the big event here... http://www.scaled.com/news/news.htm Jerry Hansen ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 02, 2004
From: Jeff Cours <rv-j(at)moriarti.org>
Subject: Re: Lesson Learned
I also ran into a similar problem: I bought a used squeezer on E-bay with a yoke that someone ground for clearance. It's great for getting into corners, but the grind is slightly off level, which lets the set tilt just a touch. It's not a problem when squeezing rivets, but it'll dent the aluminum when dimpling. Lucky thing for me was that it didn't come with directions, so I experimented on scrap before using it on anything expensive. For now, I'm using the hand squeezer for dimpling and the pneumatic for squeezing. I'll probably wind up buying a new yoke at some point, but I'm finding that dimpling doesn't take as much force as, say, using a Tatco squeezer on an AD4 rivet, the ligher hand squeezer is a lot easer to maneuver than the pneumatic tool, and, so far at least, I've been able to generate enough force to get good quality dimples, so hand dimpling may be the answer for a while. - Jeff ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 02, 2004
Subject: Electric Fuel Pump
From: <czechsix(at)juno.com>
Matt, There are tons of certified spam cans flying with a Facet fuel pump on the engine side of the firewall....all the Piper Warrior/Archer series that I've worked on are this way. I don't think they really get that hot...as long as you aren't having vapor lock problems, I wouldn't worry about it...the electric boost pump is redundant to the mech pump anyway, so a failure isn't going to be a big deal. --Mark Navratil Cedar Rapids, Iowa RV-8A N2D with Facet 'beer can' pump in the wing root, along with the gascolator, where it ain't gonna vapor lock... -----Original Message----- From: Matt Jurotich <mjurotich(at)hst.nasa.gov> Subject: RV-List: Electric Fuel Pump My electric fuel pump "Facet?" is on the engine side of the firewall. Been there for 325 hours. One on my friends said the firewall side is too hot and may cause the pump to not work when you need it. What do you fuel system wizards say? O360 with mechanical pump on engine. Thanks Matthew M. Jurotich ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 02, 2004
From: mark phipps <skydive80020(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Ellison Throttle Body
I am installing an Ellison Throttle Body on my 6A and find the standard length throttle cable does not work due to the 90 degree right orientation. I would like some info as to what length Throttle cable others have used for the Ellison and how they routed it through the firewall. Mark Phipps, N242RP, almost flying. --------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 02, 2004
From: Frederick Oldenburg <foldenburg(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: XP-360 Question
On Superior's XP-360 website, it says the following: "...each crankshaft is made from VAR steel and dynamically balanced to with-in one-quarter ounce inch to reduce engine vibration. " Is this the same thing as a counter-balanced crank? I would assume not. What is the difference? Thanks, Fred Fred Oldenburg RV-7A - Empennage http://www.rv.oldsack.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 02, 2004
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: XP-360 Question
The F6 crankshaft is counterweighted to eliminate the sixth and eighth order harmonic vibrations in order to prevent vibration damage to three blade props. This was recommended by MT when I ordered one of their hyd props. Superior did not make a F6 type crankshaft at the time I ordered my engine from Bart LaLonde - he built my XP360 with a stock Lycoming F6 crank. This is the story that I got and I'm sticking to it! Ralph Capen N822AR - getting ready to bolt the prop to the engine to the mount to the firewall....... SNIP On Superior's XP-360 website, it says the following: "...each crankshaft is made from VAR steel and dynamically balanced to with-in one-quarter ounce inch to reduce engine vibration. " Is this the same thing as a counter-balanced crank? I would assume not. What is the difference? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 02, 2004
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: Ellison Throttle Body
How short is it? Spruce sells extensions.......up to 6 inches I think. > >I am installing an Ellison Throttle Body on my 6A and find the standard >length throttle cable does not work due to the 90 degree right >orientation. I would like some info as to what length Throttle cable >others have used for the Ellison and how they routed it through the firewall. > >Mark Phipps, N242RP, almost flying. > > >--------------------------------- > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: pneumatic squeezers
Date: Jun 02, 2004
I've always used the 'unsightly' rings to guage the quality of the dimple. Missing or half a ring, I did something wrong. Just another opinion.... - Larry Bowen, RV-8 in progress Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com > -----Original Message----- > From: Frazier, Vincent A [mailto:VFrazier(at)usi.edu] > Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 2004 9:21 AM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: pneumatic squeezers > > > > SNIP Well, after trying this same setting with the pneumatic > I discovered that there was a "fluting effect" because the > pneumatic is so strong it was bending the metal slightly. My > rudder spar was now bowed slightly, like a rib would be > before fluting it....maybe 1/4" or so when you lay it flat on > a table. SNIP > > In my experience, never use a pneumatic squeezer on hinge > material unless you want a useless, banana shaped part. > > And always, always make sure that you have rounded the edges > of your dies with your Scotchbrite wheel to avoid unsightly rings. > > Vince > > > =========== > Matronics Forums. > =========== > =========== > =========== > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 02, 2004
From: Liz Taylor <n7011n(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: For Sale: Avery RV Tools with Pneumatic Squeezer
After deciding not to continue building my RV7 past the empenage stage, I'm parting with my set of Avery Tools. Attached is a .pdf Acrobat file containing shots of my complete RV7 tool set I'm selling along with images of the original invoice from Avery Tools. Several items were added after the original purchase and are not reflected in the original invoice. These items are listed below: -Precision Instruments 1/4" Drive Dial-Type Torque Wrench with Memory, 0-75 lb.in (I discovered that the cheap torque wrench I had purchased was not accurate enough for aircraft construction. After twisting the head off a bolt that was spec'd for only 24 inch/lbs, I bought the best I could find. This lists for $199 online. -Adjustable Rivet Cutter -Quick change pins for the pneumatic squeezer (a great addition since you'll frequently change the yokes) -2nd cleco wrench -Boelube-tube These items roughly add up to an additional $250 over the invoice price shown below of $2,422. 2 items that show up on the original invoice are not included. These are a 24" metal ruler and the S/B cutting and polishing wheel. I believe I have used up 1 or 2 of the cobalt bits. These are about a buck apiece depending on the bit. All of the tools are in like new shape as I only used them on the tail kit for an RV7 with the drill bits and countersink bits like new. Avery tools are great quality. The pneumatic squeezer and 3 yokes with adjustable set holder are not included in the basic Avery Tools RV7 kit (good to know if you are trying to compare my price with Avery's current pricing). Also upgraded from the basic kit is the digital angle finder, heavy duty ball bearing microstop countersink cutter and metal micrometer. There may be others that I'm forgetting. I just checked their website and it looks like their prices have gone up since I purchased these. To replace everything today would likely top $3,000 for all the items I've listed here. I'd be willing to part with everything for $2,100 (the items I'm selling cost me $2,600 roughly). The buyer will need to pay for shipping of their choice. I will also require payment via cashier's check made out to my name. If I can answer any questions, please call me at 312.943.5529 ext:14 during the day or e-mail me at richard(at)taylorbruce.com. __________________________________ http://messenger.yahoo.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 02, 2004
From: mark phipps <skydive80020(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Ellison Throttle Body
Thanks Scott, I look into that, I am not sure yet how short it is because i havent decided on exactly where I want to penetrate the firewall. Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com> wrote:--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski How short is it? Spruce sells extensions.......up to 6 inches I think. > >I am installing an Ellison Throttle Body on my 6A and find the standard >length throttle cable does not work due to the 90 degree right >orientation. I would like some info as to what length Throttle cable >others have used for the Ellison and how they routed it through the firewall. > >Mark Phipps, N242RP, almost flying. > > >--------------------------------- > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 --------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Boyce, Ph.D." <matronicspost@csg-i.com>
Subject: Re: Modifying RV6 chin scoop
Date: Jun 02, 2004
Shirley: I had the same problem with my RV-7A and an XP-360 engine with FADEC. Vertical clearances for the FAB and the cowl were very very tight. They were rubbing. So I cut off the bottom portion of the scoop, lowered it by one inch, re-fiberglassed and re-contoured and now no more problems. The position of the air inlet hole was not altered. I was lucky enough to have the advice of a Velocity builder. With hindsight, it was a straightforward operation, though at the beginning I definitely did not have the glass layup skills I needed. After all, I built a METAL airplane! Get some advice before you start. Regards, Paul ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 02, 2004
From: "R. Craig Chipley" <mechtech81(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV Fly In Missouri
There is a fly in this weekend around Mt Vernon,MO. I lost the info. Would someone let me know the coordinates again, Thanks, Craig C __________________________________ http://messenger.yahoo.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Lwfeatherston(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 02, 2004
Subject: Re: RV Fly In Missouri
Hi Craig, My name if Les Featherston. I had a wonderful FlyIn last year at my small grass airstrip near Mt Vernon, MO. I would love it if you could come on June 5th. Rebel's Bluff AS is named after a Civil War event that occurred just about 200 yards off the end of RW 34. It is a 2,200' by 75' of very, VERY nice sod runway. N37 06.1 and W93 52.2. Program Mt Vernon International Airport (2MO) in your GPS and look 2 miles NNE for Rebel's Bluff. We are getting together about 10:00AM till 5:00PM, and the Boy Scouts are having a fund raiser for lunch. If you can spend the night, my wife and I would like to host you for a steak or Bar-B-Que Chicken Dinner (About $8) with all the trimmings, and you can camp on the airstrip or the local Super 8 is very nice for $50. I will provide the transportation to Super 8. I must warn you, if you stay for dinner, you will be forced to listen to some really old "war stories," but most are somewhat true????????? I have AVgas 100LL for $2.25, and would love to have you in. Where are you located, and what do you fly? Hope to see you, Les 417-466-4663 Please RSVP for dinner as we are getting a bit crowded. Thx ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 02, 2004
From: Greg Grigson <iflyhawaii2(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Ellison Throttle Body
Mark, I'll have to check the length, probably the 60 incher. I went through the center of the FW down the right side of the lower engine case.. I am using a center mounted quadrant, but should be similar. What did you do about the lower (TB) mixture bracket? That one has me stumped. Greg Honolulu mark phipps wrote: I am installing an Ellison Throttle Body on my 6A and find the standard length throttle cable does not work due to the 90 degree right orientation. I would like some info as to what length Throttle cable others have used for the Ellison and how they routed it through the firewall. Mark Phipps, N242RP, almost flying. --------------------------------- --------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Craig Warner" <cwarner(at)twcny.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV Fly In Missouri
Date: Jun 02, 2004
Hi Les Right now I am flying a Piper tri-Pacer. I am just finishing the empenage of an RV6 non-pre-punched. Your fly in sounds interesting. Maybe next year when the RV6 is flying ;-) Thanks for the invite. ----- Original Message ----- From: <Lwfeatherston(at)aol.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV Fly In Missouri > > Hi Craig, My name if Les Featherston. I had a wonderful FlyIn last year at > my small grass airstrip near Mt Vernon, MO. I would love it if you could come > on June 5th. Rebel's Bluff AS is named after a Civil War event that occurred > just about 200 yards off the end of RW 34. It is a 2,200' by 75' of very, > VERY nice sod runway. N37 06.1 and W93 52.2. Program Mt Vernon International > Airport (2MO) in your GPS and look 2 miles NNE for Rebel's Bluff. We are > getting together about 10:00AM till 5:00PM, and the Boy Scouts are having a fund > raiser for lunch. If you can spend the night, my wife and I would like to host > you for a steak or Bar-B-Que Chicken Dinner (About $8) with all the trimmings, > and you can camp on the airstrip or the local Super 8 is very nice for $50. I > will provide the transportation to Super 8. I must warn you, if you stay for > dinner, you will be forced to listen to some really old "war stories," but > most are somewhat true????????? I have AVgas 100LL for $2.25, and would love to > have you in. Where are you located, and what do you fly? Hope to see you, > Les 417-466-4663 Please RSVP for dinner as we are getting a bit crowded. Thx > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVer273sb(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 03, 2004
Subject: Re: Duel electric fuel pumps
I just installed an accessory case machined for the pump on my D2J. I remember there was also a place that could machine the D2J case for the pump. I wanted the redundancy of Mech/ Elec pumps. Stewart Rv4 950 hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Modifying RV6 Chin Scoop
Date: Jun 03, 2004
From: <EricHe(at)FlexSolPackaging.com>
Shirley, it is time for you to discover the wonders of two-part expanding foam. With ex-foam, all things are possible. Go to your local fiberglass boat supply house and ask for it. You mix it 50/50 and hear me now and believe me later, DO NOT GET IT ON YOUR SKIN. It will hang on for a month. Just hack away at the scoop as you see fit and get it clecoed into place some how. Just put it where ya want it and dont make it pretty. Hack away any thing that gets in the way of an eventual smooth transition between surfaces. Pay close attention that each side is semetrical. When you get it all fixed liek ya like it, mix up a little cup of ex-foam and stir it up, let it start to bubble before you put it on and then just pour it into the voids. It will rise up like bread and will sand like stale bread. 80 grit sandpaper will shape it with ease. Just keep putting it where ya need to make a nice transition. Cut away anything that gets in the way (flanges that don't fit). Keep at it until you have a nice smooth scoop. Then lay two layers of glass over what you have, light glass is fine. Bring the two layers up on the edges of the outer cowl a couple of inches. Let that dry over night. You have just made the outer shell of your new scoop. I like to let the outer shell kick for about an hour and then I come back over it when its tacky and slather it with microbaloons so everything comes from the same layup. Now that its dry, flip it over. You have a lot of extra crud you don't need inside. Take your die grinder and sand all the unneeded crap away, a hack saw blade will rip out all the exp-foam quickly. Make it transition nice and smooth to the new shell from inside. Sand everything inside and lay up two more layers of glass on the inside. Then just make it all pretty. BTW, for sanding inside the concave surfaces of the scoop, pvc T's are great. Go get one of each size for round sanding blocks. The actual process is easier than reading this long e-mail. Eric Henson From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com Subject: RV-List: Modifying RV6 chin scoop I have an RV6 with a Superior O-360 carby engine in it and the FAB 0-360 S type cowl air box on it. I have just trimmed and then tried to fit my O-320 cowl air chin scoop on (bought some years ago as part of the quick build kit when I was planning on a smaller engine) and it is too small vertically to accept the air box. Does anyone have any ideas about splitting the chin scoop and then fibreglassing it to a new shape, as I live in Western Australia and the freight back to Vans and the fact that it is already trimmed to shape make it unreturnable, and very expensive to buy a new correct O-360 type. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 7A Slider Question
From: tacaruth(at)ralcorp.com
Date: Jun 03, 2004
06/03/2004 09:23:08 AM HI All, I have a question for the group about the slider canopy. How far does the center cover extend on the rear of the canopy? This is the 1" wide aluminum strip that covers the center tube and plexiglass down the top middle of the canopy. Will this be covered by the rear skirts or will the skirts but up to it? Does the center rail "doghouse (???)" attach on top of this junction? The plans are don't show the relationship of these pieces. I'm hoping someone who has done this can give some advise. Thanks in advance, Tom, RV-7A, working slowly on the canopy ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 03, 2004
From: Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: 7A Slider Question
tacaruth(at)ralcorp.com wrote: How far does the center cover extend on the rear of the canopy? This is the 1" wide aluminum strip that covers the center tube and plexiglass down the top middle of the canopy. All the way to the rear skirt. Will this be covered by the rear skirts or will the skirts but up to it? The rear skirts overlap, butt the center strip to the leading edge of the skirts. Does the center rail "doghouse (???)" attach on top of this junction? Yes. The cover should mount on top of the skirts, up to the leading edge of the skirts (just to the rear of the center strip), and then back however far it needs to go. There are a lot of web sites out there that will show you this detail. And don't limit yourself to the -7 when you're looking. -6 sliders are pretty much the same in this regard. - Mike Michael E. Thompson (Grobdriver(at)yahoo.com) Austin, TX, USA RV-6 N140RV, FLYING! Ex-AX1 Sub Hunter, P-3 (B/B-TACMOD/C) Orion Aircrew, PP-G,ASEL, Motorglider Driver and Unlimited Air Race Nut! --------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Electric Fuel Pump
From: Scott.Fink(at)microchip.com
Date: Jun 03, 2004
06/03/2004 09:50:45 AM, Serialize complete at 06/03/2004 09:50:45 AM Mark/Matt, It should be noted, however, that on my Cherokee the electric fuel pump and gascolator are isolated from the rest of the engine compartment with baffling and have a blast tube for cooling of the "box" they are in. Scott Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com 06/02/2004 10:24 AM Please respond to rv-list To: rv-list(at)matronics.com cc: Subject: RV-List: Electric Fuel Pump Matt, There are tons of certified spam cans flying with a Facet fuel pump on the engine side of the firewall....all the Piper Warrior/Archer series that I've worked on are this way. I don't think they really get that hot...as long as you aren't having vapor lock problems, I wouldn't worry about it...the electric boost pump is redundant to the mech pump anyway, so a failure isn't going to be a big deal. --Mark Navratil Cedar Rapids, Iowa RV-8A N2D with Facet 'beer can' pump in the wing root, along with the gascolator, where it ain't gonna vapor lock... -----Original Message----- From: Matt Jurotich <mjurotich(at)hst.nasa.gov> Subject: RV-List: Electric Fuel Pump My electric fuel pump "Facet?" is on the engine side of the firewall. Been there for 325 hours. One on my friends said the firewall side is too hot and may cause the pump to not work when you need it. What do you fuel system wizards say? O360 with mechanical pump on engine. Thanks Matthew M. Jurotich ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net>
Subject: Pulley Groove Dimensions
Date: Jun 03, 2004
To machine a pulley for my alternator, I need the dimensions/tolerances for pulley groove 10A/11A or .380/.440" which is found in copyrighted SAE standard J636 which I can buy for $60. Before I do that, I thought I'd ask if anyone on the list had that information, eg. Groove width at top Groove depth Groove included angle of sides Dave Reel - RV8A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us>
"'owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com '"(at)matronics.com
Subject: crankshaft
Date: Jun 03, 2004
Is this the same thing as a counter-balanced crank? I would assume not. What is the difference? Fred, A dymanically balanced crankshaft is one that was balanced by spinning it and measuring the out-of-balanced acceleration and then correcting this by mass addition or removal. A crankshaft with counter balancers is a misnomer. These are actually pendulums designed to interfere with torsional vibrations which can harmonically resonate the crankshaft at higher load/rpm settings. The simplified version is, order defines which resonant level you are shooting for to alter. An example of this is when you run a prop or spoked wheel next to a strobe, like a house light strobing at 60hz, the spokes will appear to line up and stop at various RPMs, ie they are "resonating" with the 60hz light at different levels or multiples of 60hz. The harmonic resononce is not linear in terms of RPM like it is with the spokes and light, but it does have levels where the torsional vibration will time in a frequency that causes the metal to become more flexible. This doesn't mean much unless there's enough load for the extra flexibility to suddenly allow the crank to actually flex and twist destructively. So a crank with a specific prop, and possibly in a specific aircraft, will hit these resonant ranges at various RPMs, but the only ones that matter are the ones at higher load settings, say above 50% power. So first order may be at 1500, second at 1800, third at 2100, fourth at 2500 and fifth at 2900 and so on. If redline is 2700, and 50% power is at 2200 RPM than the only one that matters in terms of being a resonant frequency, and having enough load to actually do damage due to the extra flexibility is the fourth order one at 2500. (Note; I've made up these numbers for the purpose of illustrating this) The other thing to be aware of is that the resonant flexibility they are trying to dampen, and it can be more then one, may not be about preventing crankshaft damage. They might have found a whipping problem in the accessory section or somewhere else to which they are addressing. I always get Order and Mode mixed up, but I believe Mode is the number of twists back and forth that will exist in the shaft at a specific order. In other words if you whip a rope slowly it will make a sine wave, if speed this up it will eventually make two sine waves, then three, and on and on. The same thing is true of I start twisting a rubber band with a weight on one end. Since a six cylinder engine may have two on either end of the power stroke and two on either end of the compression stroke one can see why they tend to have more complex twisting loads. And therefore more often have balancers. W ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce Meacham" <bruce_meacham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: New England Wing RVator Fly-In
Date: Jun 03, 2004
Announcing - - for those who do not already know ... The EAA106 chapter of Greater Boston www.EAA106.org is hosting a RV Fly-In at LWM Saturday June 12 which is the 3rd annual RV Fly-In by the New England Van's Air Force Wing www.nevaf.com - including 3 seminars - RAIN DATE: Sat, June 19th To be held at the EAA106 hanger at LWM - - Lawrence Municipal airport - - just northwest of Boston, MA Schedule for the day 09:00 - RV Static Display aircraft requested to arrive by this time 09:30 - RV Active Area aircraft and non-RV aircraft requested to arrive by this time 09:00-10:00 Gate manned for those driving in 10:00 - SEMINAR - Formation Flying: Stu McCurdy of Formation Flight International (FFI) 11:30-NOON Gate manned again for those driving in 11:30 - LUNCH - socializing / look at aircraft 13:00 - SEMINAR - Preparing for your first flight: Joe Gauthier 14:30 - SEMINAR - Basic metalworking workshop: Bob DiMeo 16:00 - Aircraft Depart Fly or Drive - but PLEASE send fill out and send me the RSVP form (one for each aircraft or carload) along with guest info. We need to get counts of people, how many staying during lunch cookout, planes (including non-RVs which we will need to park in a separate area), and especially how many in your party want to purchase the seminar handouts - the seminars are free, but the materials must be pre-printed and cost $10 for a set covering all 3 seminars). Go to the www.EAA106.org website for our RSVP form (we're not sophisticated enough this year for a fancy web form - it's a Word document with questions in a table - next year we'll try to do it better) as well as links to maps for driving (after you are on Rt-495 northbound just north of I-93), airport diagram for locating the EAA106 hanger, frequencies, and hanger area diagram showing 3 aircraft parking areas - - RV static display, RV active area, and non-RV aircraft. Send me an e-mail if you cannot grab the RSVP form from the website and I'll e-mail it to you. Please fill out and send me the RSVP along with an aircraft picture and caption for EACH person in your party (see RSVP form page 1 for explanation and caption examples) - send ASAP. If you think you are probably going to come but are not 100% sure, I'd rather have your info and spend time THIS week making your badge then not use it if you cancel than have you send me your info for the first time next week which leaves me little time to make badges. The event badges are not an "ID" per se, but rather a conversation stimulator with your name, your aviation affiliations, and most importantly, a picture of an aircraft that you either a) have built, b) are building (or one like it), own (such as certified), or one you'd like to build or own (category of many pilots and aviation enthusiasts without wings at present). So far (as I write this mail on Thurs, 6/3, at 6 pm), we have 13 RVs confirmed and another 3 RVs not fully confirmed, 8 non-RV aircraft, and 84 people so far... but if you are coming, PLEASE send me the RSVP form ASAP so I can add you to the list and make your badge now. Thanks. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Ford" <dford(at)michweb.net>
Subject: exhaust smell during descent
Date: Jun 03, 2004
I have recently been noticing an exhaust type smell during power reduced decents in my RV6. Was just wondering if anyone has experienced that. Nothing has changed since I started flying in January other than warmer weather coming to Michigan now. I'm not quite sure where it would be coming in except maybe somewhere in the tail/tailwheel area? The only other place might be the .030 holes I drilled for the gear leg fairing hinge pins? Dave Ford RV6 80 hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: exhaust smell during descent
Date: Jun 03, 2004
> I have recently been noticing an exhaust type smell during > power reduced decents in my RV6. Was just wondering if > anyone has experienced that. Nothing has changed since I > started flying in January other than warmer weather coming to > Michigan now. I'm not quite sure where it would be coming in > except maybe somewhere in the tail/tailwheel area? The only > other place might be the .030 holes I drilled for the gear > leg fairing hinge pins? > > Dave Ford > RV6 > 80 hrs Dave, I have noticed the same thing when at higher angles of attack, 70 knots for example. Additionally, at those speeds normally one has the mixture full rich in preparation for landing, making things worse. This time of the year, in between using the heaters and using the ventilation system is when one will notice this (no fresh air to push out other incoming leaks). Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN RV6-A N66AP 273 hours http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Compton" <thecomptons(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: exhaust smell during descent
Date: Jun 03, 2004
----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave Ford" <dford(at)michweb.net> Subject: RV-List: exhaust smell during descent > > I have recently been noticing an exhaust type smell during power reduced decents in my RV6. Was just wondering if anyone has experienced that. Nothing has changed since I started flying in January other than warmer weather coming to Michigan now. I'm not quite sure where it would be coming in except maybe somewhere in the tail/tailwheel area? The only other place might be the .030 holes I drilled for the gear leg fairing hinge pins? > > Dave Ford > RV6 > 80 hrs I also get this smell in my -3. Like you, I think it is coming in through the tail area. I'm just wondering why I only get the fumes when I'm reducing power in a descent, usually when descending and slowing to enter the landing pattern, and not at any other time, i.e.. takeoff, cruise, acro. For what its worth, the smell/fumes do not affect my carbon monoxide detector. Randy Compton RV-3 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PeterHunt1(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 03, 2004
Subject: Location of Fuel Flow Transducer
I need a little help understanding where to place my fuel flow transducer. The manufacturer suggested suspending it somewhere in the flexible hose running between the engine fuel pump and carburetor, and at the same level as the carburetor. This is awkward in my situation (O-360-A1A) and would involve several additional fittings (and perhaps failure points). I would like to place my fuel flow transducer just after my electric fuel pump (inside the cockpit and before the gascolator). Is there an argument against doing this? Is there some pulsing issue? What have others done that has worked well? The manufacturer discourages fastening the fuel flow transducer outlet directly to the carburetor which is another option for me, but I can't get from them a reason why. What I want to understand is where to place my fuel flow transducer and, most specifically, why. Pete Clearwater, FL RV-6, completing engine instillation ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com>
Subject: Big Momma & Landings
Date: Jun 03, 2004
Ok, I guess it's my turn to quote Austin without that archive-no-no stuff: Terry -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Austin Subject: RV-List: Big Momma & Landings Hi guys, Back when I was abuilding, I got precious little to none rides in an RV, and wondered why this was so.... What I heard over and over was...." well, ya know, these RVs are sure a lot different when you have another rider along...makes a big difference and ya can sure feel it.."......B.S...Bravo Sierra.. I can't say I concur with that, but I will say that today made me realize what changes CAN be noticed when you have full tanks and a full load...and a very hot day... Took Momma along for a ride to meet Daughter for lunch and it was so hot my shirt stuck to my back all day.... Now Momma normally does not care all that much for " Them little arioplanes " preferring Boeing type...but away we went and with the two landings I had to make, while using full flap and approach at 85 and bleeding off, I noticed to my great surprise that I altered trim very little ......Compared to what I use when flying alone., I normally crank in a lot., but not today...Momma is a bit big....bigger than me....and I guess that aids the trim on a hot day with full fuel.... Landing speeds were the same...just seemed to be what the airplane wanted and I got compliments on the landings for which I would also like to give credit to my new tires....no shimmy......... I ain't no expert on performance figures and all....me being a pilot and not an accountant, but I still think the RV handles and feels much the same with two up, all things considered, and jist think them old dinks was stingy in not giving a rabid, budding builder a ride now and then....... jist to keep the blood up and fire going on the rivet gun...I know I am happy to spread the RV gospel anytime a newbie wants inspiration..... Also, I give everlasting thanks to one real gentleman who gave me a full hour of touch and goes without once touching the stick and this, after I had been off for 4 years.....now there is faith... I will always think of that.. Another note....I sure do like carrier landings and do believe that if you have power..use it....but deadstick landing practice has told me that you must be in close and know your sink rate to get in where you want to put down 'cause these sure ain't Cessnas. Ya gotta love these wonderful little hotrods. And as us two old grey haired folk climbed in and buckled up, it brought a smile when 4 people strolled by smiling, looked at us and the RV and gave " thumbs up "....." lookin' good " Back to the old armchair and a nap, logbook fallen on the floor, TV talking to nobody, smell of gas on my hands turning the cat off, and dreaming of cloud chasing....zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz. Anonymous ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 04, 2004
Subject: Re: Location of Fuel Flow Transducer
In a message dated 6/3/2004 7:53:07 PM Pacific Daylight Time, PeterHunt1(at)aol.com writes: I need a little help understanding where to place my fuel flow transducer. The manufacturer suggested suspending it somewhere in the flexible hose running between the engine fuel pump and carburetor, and at the same level as the carburetor. This is awkward in my situation (O-360-A1A) and would involve several additional fittings (and perhaps failure points). I would like to place my fuel flow transducer just after my electric fuel pump (inside the cockpit and before the gascolator). Is there an argument against doing this? Is there some pulsing issue? What have others done that has worked well? Try to minimize turbulence in the line just upstream of your transducer inlet (don't make single 90 degree turns close by, instead use a 45 degree fitting on the hose end and then another 45 degree fitting on the transducer if you have to to make the turn). The transducer for my VM1000 is mounted to the firewall using the long screw mounts that come installed on it and has worked fine for me. Hard line runs from the interior wall mounted boost pump, thru the f/w, to the f/w mounted gascolator, then flex line to the mech fuel pump inlet, flex line to the transducer inlet and flex line to the carb inlet. Pressure tap comes off the mech pump outlet fitting and primer line comes off top of gascolator to f/w mounted solenoid, then to splitter and then to union cones at three cylinders. Pay particular attention to the orientation as described in the instructions though. IIRC there is a particular portion of the transducer that must face up to foster best flow. GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 701 hrs; last trip, Sedona) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net>
Subject: Fuel Flow Transducer
Date: Jun 04, 2004
I need a little help understanding where to place my fuel flow transducer. The manufacturer suggested suspending it somewhere in the flexible hose running between the engine fuel pump and carburetor, and at the same level as the carburetor. This is awkward in my situation (O-360-A1A) and would involve several additional fittings (and perhaps failure points). I would like to place my fuel flow transducer just after my electric fuel pump (inside the cockpit and before the gascolator). Is there an argument against doing this? Is there some pulsing issue? What have others done that has worked well? The manufacturer discourages fastening the fuel flow transducer outlet directly to the carburetor which is another option for me, but I can't get from them a reason why. What I want to understand is where to place my fuel flow transducer and, most specifically, why. Pete Clearwater, FL RV-6, completing engine instillation ((((((((((()))))))))))) I am using the transducer that comes with the ACS2002. I placed mine between the electronic fuel pump and the gascolator on the cabin side of the FW. Fuel line is level going into and out of the transducer. I had to put some holes in the floor and build a bracket to hold the transducer above the floor about an 1" and fabricate/bend some aluminum fuel line to get the required straight 5" before and after the transducer. I think mine is a little less than 5 " straight after the transducer. It is a fit and took about 4 times before I got it so it looks right. You'll want to make sure your rudder/brake peddles do touch anything when you are done. I could probably send you a picture if you would like that. Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker" ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 2004
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: exhaust smell during descent
I have/had the same problem. It started after I tucked up and straightened out my exhaust pipes. I have since then moved them to see if the exhaust smell will go away. So, check to see if your exhaust pipe hangers are ok, your pipes may have moved. > >I have recently been noticing an exhaust type smell during power reduced >decents in my RV6. Was just wondering if anyone has experienced >that. Nothing has changed since I started flying in January other than >warmer weather coming to Michigan now. I'm not quite sure where it would >be coming in except maybe somewhere in the tail/tailwheel area? The only >other place might be the .030 holes I drilled for the gear leg fairing >hinge pins? > >Dave Ford >RV6 >80 hrs > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Lwshine(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 04, 2004
Subject: please unsubscribe me
Please unsubscribe me,,, thank you ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Suffoletto" <rsuffoletto(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Grommets for fuel lines
Date: Jun 04, 2004
The plans show two grommets per side where the fuel line exits the side of the fuselage on a 7A, . I simply cannot get two grommets to fit, one from the inside and one from the outside. The small space between the fuselage skins in this area is not wide enough for two grommets. What am I missing or doing wrong? Thanks Richard ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Subject: Re: Grommets for fuel lines
Date: Jun 04, 2004
Put a bulkhead fitting there instead. This way you can remove the fuel tank simply by disconnecting the fuel line at the fuselage. Paul Besing RV-6A Sold RV-10 Soon http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software http://www.kitlog.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Suffoletto" <rsuffoletto(at)hotmail.com> Subject: RV-List: Grommets for fuel lines > > > The plans show two grommets per side where the fuel line exits the side of the fuselage on a 7A, . I simply cannot get two grommets to fit, one from the inside and one from the outside. The small space between the fuselage skins in this area is not wide enough for two grommets. > > > What am I missing or doing wrong? > > > Thanks > > > Richard > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Chuck Jensen <cjensen(at)dts9000.com>
le
Subject: Terminal procedures and airport diagrams now availab
le
Date: Jun 04, 2004
If you happen to be an AOPA member, https://www.aopa.org/ticketLogin, they have all of the procedures in digital format, they list all of the procedures for each airport, then you can select the producers you want and download all of them in a single download. Free (after membership) and you don't have to drill down half way to China just to get to a couple procedures. Or, they're only a couple clicks away on http://www.airnav.com/airport Free also. Chuck -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of David Carter Subject: Re: RV-List: Terminal procedures and airport diagrams now available I went there - you have to drill down through the links on left side: Click "Aeronautical Charting" then "On-line Products"(this is a good one to "book mark") then either "digital- TPP" or "Airport Diagrams" then select the "effective dates" you want - for inst apch procedures this is at http://avn.faa.gov/index.asp?xml=naco/online/d_tpp After you click the effective date, you get the map of US and click state, then enter aprt identifier. If you navigate a different route, you'll see stuff about subscription prices - ignore that and keep going until you get to the page where you enter your airport identifier and print the thing you want -for free. David ----- Original Message ----- From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net> Subject: RV-List: Terminal procedures and airport diagrams now available > > Though you would find interesting that the FAA has introduced FREE > digital charting on-line with the availability of instrument approaches, > procedures, airport diagrams, and other interesting stuff. Now I know > you can get these in other places. But here is the catch. These are not > scanned crappy images. These are digital, legal, up to date, printable, > pdf's, high quality plates and airport diagrams. > > Images are 250kb ish in size. > > It appears that they will also be doing other charting items in the > future so keep your eyes peeled. > > Enjoy, > > http://avn.faa.gov/index.asp?xmlnaco/onlineproducts > > Michael Stewart ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Chuck Jensen <cjensen(at)dts9000.com>
Subject: Re:New Electronic Instruments
Date: Jun 04, 2004
Martin, this is to confirm your encryption is working fine. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Martin Hone Subject: RV-List: Re:New Electronic Instruments RydEYXkgUm9ubmllLA0KIA0KVGhlIFNtYXJ0IFNpbmdsZXMgYW5kIGVsZWN0cm9uaWMsIHNvbGlk LXN0YXRlIGd5cm9zIG9mZmVyZWQgYnkgdGhpcyBTb3V0aCBBZnJpY2FuIG91dGZpdCBhcmUgdmVy eSB3ZWxsIHByaWNlZC4NCiANClRoZSBvbmx5IHByb2JsZW0gaXMgdGhhdCwgd2hpbGUgdGhlIGZh Y2VzIGFyZSAyLjI1IGluY2hlcywgdGhlIGN1dCBvdXQgaXMgbm90IGNpcmN1bGFyLiBUaGUgYXJl IGVmZmVjdGl2ZWx5IHRvIGJlIG1vdW50ZWQgZnJvbSB0aGUgZnJvbnQsIG1pbGl0YXJ5LXN0eWxl LCBidXQgdGhpcyBpcyBub3QgZ29pbmcgdG8gc3VpdCBldmVyeWJvZHkuIFRoZSB1bml0cyBhcmUg dmVyeSBsaWdodCBidXQgYSBiaXQgY2hlYXAgbG9va2luZyBjb21wYXJlZCB0byB0aGUgaGlnaGVy LXByaWNlZCBhbmQgY29udmVudGlvbmFsIHN0dWZmIG91dCBjdXJyZW50bHkgYXZhaWxhYmxlLg0K IA0KSSBoYWQgdGhlIG9wcG9ydHVuaXR5IHRvIGhhdmUgYSBmaXJzdC1oYW5kIGxvb2sgcmVjZW50 bHksIGF0IGEgYmlnIHVsdHJhbGlnaHQgZmx5LWluLCBhbmQgZ2F2ZSB0aGUgQUggYSBiaXQgb2Yg YSB3b3JrLW91dCBhdCB0aGVpciBib290aC4gSSBzaW1wbHkgaGVsZCB0aGUgcmVtb3RlIGhlYWQg aW4gbXkgaGFuZCBhbmQgbWFkZSBhZXJvcGxhbmUgbW92ZW1lbnRzLCB3aGljaCB3ZXJlIGltbWVk aWF0ZWx5IHRyYW5zbGF0ZWQgaW50byBiYW5rcyBvciBjbGltYmluZyB0dXJucyBvbiB0aGUgZ2F1 Z2UuIFRoZSBnYXVnZSBpcyBhbHNvIG9ubHkgMi4yNSBpbmNoZXMsIG5vdCAzLjEyNSBpbmNoICB1 bmZvcnR1bmF0ZWx5LCBidXQgb2sgYXMgYSBiYWNrLXVwLg0KTXkgQXVzc2llICQwLjAyIHdvcnRo DQogDQpNYXJ0aW4gaW4gT3oNCg= ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: Grommets for fuel lines
Date: Jun 04, 2004
Don't use two grommets. Open up the hole in the 7101 (or whatever it is) plate large enough so that the fuel line couldn't possibly touch. Then just use a single grommet in the hole in the skin. Just my 2 cents, )_( Dan RV-7 N714D http://www.rvproject.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Suffoletto" <rsuffoletto(at)hotmail.com> Subject: RV-List: Grommets for fuel lines > > > The plans show two grommets per side where the fuel line exits the side of the fuselage on a 7A, . I simply cannot get two grommets to fit, one from the inside and one from the outside. The small space between the fuselage skins in this area is not wide enough for two grommets. > > > What am I missing or doing wrong? > > > Thanks > > > Richard > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Grommets for fuel lines
Date: Jun 04, 2004
I think the '9 is similar in this area. Some of us used just 1 grommet and enlarged the other hole a little so it doesn't interfere with the line. Albert Gardner RV-9A 872RV Yuma, AZ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Suffoletto" <rsuffoletto(at)hotmail.com> Subject: RV-List: Grommets for fuel lines > The plans show two grommets per side where the fuel line exits the side of the fuselage on a 7A, . I simply cannot get two grommets to fit, one from the inside and one from the outside. The small space between the fuselage skins in this area is not wide enough for two grommets. > What am I missing or doing wrong? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Subject: Re: Terminal procedures and airport diagrams now availab
le
Date: Jun 04, 2004
Also try www.myairplane.com Paul Besing RV-6A Sold RV-10 Soon http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software http://www.kitlog.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen(at)dts9000.com> Subject: RE: RV-List: Terminal procedures and airport diagrams now availab le > > If you happen to be an AOPA member, https://www.aopa.org/ticketLogin, they > have all of the procedures in digital format, they list all of the > procedures for each airport, then you can select the producers you want and > download all of them in a single download. Free (after membership) and you > don't have to drill down half way to China just to get to a couple > procedures. > > Or, they're only a couple clicks away on http://www.airnav.com/airport Free > also. > > Chuck > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of David Carter > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: Terminal procedures and airport diagrams now > available > > > I went there - you have to drill down through the links on left side: Click > "Aeronautical Charting" then "On-line Products"(this is a good one to "book > mark") then either "digital- TPP" or "Airport Diagrams" then select the > "effective dates" you want - for inst apch procedures this is at > http://avn.faa.gov/index.asp?xml=naco/online/d_tpp > > After you click the effective date, you get the map of US and click state, > then enter aprt identifier. > > If you navigate a different route, you'll see stuff about subscription > prices - ignore that and keep going until you get to the page where you > enter your airport identifier and print the thing you want -for free. > > David > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net> > To: ; <3.6>; ; ; ; > > Subject: RV-List: Terminal procedures and airport diagrams now available > > > > > > > Though you would find interesting that the FAA has introduced FREE > > digital charting on-line with the availability of instrument approaches, > > procedures, airport diagrams, and other interesting stuff. Now I know > > you can get these in other places. But here is the catch. These are not > > scanned crappy images. These are digital, legal, up to date, printable, > > pdf's, high quality plates and airport diagrams. > > > > Images are 250kb ish in size. > > > > It appears that they will also be doing other charting items in the > > future so keep your eyes peeled. > > > > Enjoy, > > > > http://avn.faa.gov/index.asp?xmlnaco/onlineproducts > > > > Michael Stewart > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Location of Fuel Flow Transducer
Date: Jun 04, 2004
Pete, On my 6A, I put the transducer on side of the fuselage next to the rudder pedals between the electric fuel pump and the firewall. I have about 6 inches of straight tubing before the transducer and probably 8-10 inches after. The transducer is angled the same as the fuel pump. This set up is working well. My fuel flow reading is within .5 gal of actual consumed. I have it set on the conservative side (i.e. reading less fuel remaining than actual.) I am using the GRT EIS and am getting a non-steady fuel flow reading at all power settings. The fuel flow reading will slowly go up about 1 gal/hr and slowly back down and then up again. Since it reads 0.1 gal/hr, this fluctuation looks big but my end result fuel flow error is not large Greg at GRT is recommending that I place a dampening tube before the transducer that I will probably do next winter. Right now, I am having to much fun flying to worry about this. Ross Mickey N9PT -----Original Message----- Subject: RV-List: Location of Fuel Flow Transducer posted by: PeterHunt1(at)aol.com I need a little help understanding where to place my fuel flow transducer. The manufacturer suggested suspending it somewhere in the flexible hose running between the engine fuel pump and carburetor, and at the same level as the carburetor. This is awkward in my situation (O-360-A1A) and would involve several additional fittings (and perhaps failure points). I would like to place my fuel flow transducer just after my electric fuel pump (inside the cockpit and before the gascolator). Is there an argument against doing this? Is there some pulsing issue? What have others done that has worked well? The manufacturer discourages fastening the fuel flow transducer outlet directly to the carburetor which is another option for me, but I can't get from them a reason why. What I want to understand is where to place my fuel flow transducer and, most specifically, why. Pete Clearwater, FL RV-6, completing engine instillation ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 2004
From: Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com>
Subject: IT'S ALIVE!
rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com, RV10(at)yahoogroups.com Just wanted to let you all know that last Saturday, with the help of my Yak-52 buddy, and safety wire aficionado, Dave Petri, and with adult supervision from IA and RV-4 Driver Dom MacNiven, I reassembled the engine for my -8A... Everything went together great with no problems at all... After working the rest of the week on getting everything else back together I finally fired her back up last night... What a relief... She came to life in about 3 blades and ran great! Very smooth... I plan to do some flying on Sunday and will post more info then... Quick review: Engine: (was) O320-E3D @150HP - that had a bad cam, which I was told was cause about an 18% power loss, so let's say it was about 125HP... That coupled with my field elevation of 7000' gave me about 94HP, and at 2300 RPM on take-ff equated to about 65HP! LOL.....and I was still getting about 800 fpm climb and 175 MPH cruise! Anyway... Engine: (now) O320-BELCHFIRE-170 I overhauled the engine with 9:1 pistons and an ASI Phase III CAM, which should give me about 170HP, so this should be fun! I also had the cyls overhauled by Don George aircraft... Just about everything else was replaced but the cases, rods and valves, and everything was measured to be within factory new specs... Looks like the finally price tag on this overhaul is going to be about $4500, bringing the total cost for the engine to $10,500... I did get some donated parts that saved several hundred dollars, and a lot of help from a lot of people! Thanks to all! You can see more details here if you're interested: http://www.rv8a.com/engine/overhaul/index.htm -Bill VonDane EAA Tech Counselor RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs www.vondane.com www.creativair.com www.epanelbuilder.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 2004
From: Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com>
Subject: Re: Location of Fuel Flow Transducer
I installed mine in the same place, but haven't flown it enough to know how well it works... I did notice that when I turn on the boost pump it read about 1 gph higher... I ended up buying a pulsation dampener from Matt Dralle to install: http://www.matronics.com/fuelchec/dampener.html The instructions also say something bout using a flexible line to help with the pulses, so I may install the sphere right after the fuel pump and use a flex line from the dampener to the flow transducer... Anyone see any problems with this? -Bill VonDane EAA Tech Counselor RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs www.vondane.com www.creativair.com www.epanelbuilder.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> Subject: RE: RV-List: Location of Fuel Flow Transducer Pete, On my 6A, I put the transducer on side of the fuselage next to the rudder pedals between the electric fuel pump and the firewall. I have about 6 inches of straight tubing before the transducer and probably 8-10 inches after. The transducer is angled the same as the fuel pump. This set up is working well. My fuel flow reading is within .5 gal of actual consumed. I have it set on the conservative side (i.e. reading less fuel remaining than actual.) I am using the GRT EIS and am getting a non-steady fuel flow reading at all power settings. The fuel flow reading will slowly go up about 1 gal/hr and slowly back down and then up again. Since it reads 0.1 gal/hr, this fluctuation looks big but my end result fuel flow error is not large Greg at GRT is recommending that I place a dampening tube before the transducer that I will probably do next winter. Right now, I am having to much fun flying to worry about this. Ross Mickey N9PT -----Original Message----- Subject: RV-List: Location of Fuel Flow Transducer posted by: PeterHunt1(at)aol.com I need a little help understanding where to place my fuel flow transducer. The manufacturer suggested suspending it somewhere in the flexible hose running between the engine fuel pump and carburetor, and at the same level as the carburetor. This is awkward in my situation (O-360-A1A) and would involve several additional fittings (and perhaps failure points). I would like to place my fuel flow transducer just after my electric fuel pump (inside the cockpit and before the gascolator). Is there an argument against doing this? Is there some pulsing issue? What have others done that has worked well? The manufacturer discourages fastening the fuel flow transducer outlet directly to the carburetor which is another option for me, but I can't get from them a reason why. What I want to understand is where to place my fuel flow transducer and, most specifically, why. Pete Clearwater, FL RV-6, completing engine instillation ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 2004
From: SportAV8R(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: IT'S ALIVE!
Bill- best of luck with the new engine. I did the belchfire upgrade to mine after a bad cam & followers episode, but only went to 8.5:1, for a nominal 160 hp. Now I get to buy premium mogas at home and 100LL while on the road (nobody sells premium mogas at FBO's) for an additional 10 hp, which has made little if any perceptible difference in performance (I'm still limited to 2600 rpm by the Sensenich engineering marvel on the nose and get 2280 static rpm at 1050 MSL typically, will get even less if I coarsen the pitch as has been recommended to avoid overspeeding in cruise!) Would I do it again if I had it to do over? NO WAY! Not for the privilege of paying 20 cents per gallon more for hi-test when regular used to do. Also, I heard that 160hp was as high as one ought to push the O-320-E2D due to the small front main bearing (from an O-290; gee, thanks, Lycoming...) so you might be in relatively uncharted territory. Hope your mileage varies considerably from mine. -Stormy / 6-A, 386 hrs. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 2004
From: Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com>
Subject: Re: IT'S ALIVE!
I talked to two different IAs about the so-called "weaker" front main bearing in the E2D/E3D and they both told me it is bogus... In fact, my IA buddy Len said that in his opinion the two piece bearing setup was easier to install, less problematic, and probably stronger than the one piece... The cases are the same, so where is the weakness? I don't know... -Bill VonDane EAA Tech Counselor RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs www.vondane.com www.creativair.com www.epanelbuilder.com ----- Original Message ----- From: <SportAV8R(at)aol.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: IT'S ALIVE! Bill- best of luck with the new engine. I did the belchfire upgrade to mine after a bad cam & followers episode, but only went to 8.5:1, for a nominal 160 hp. Now I get to buy premium mogas at home and 100LL while on the road (nobody sells premium mogas at FBO's) for an additional 10 hp, which has made little if any perceptible difference in performance (I'm still limited to 2600 rpm by the Sensenich engineering marvel on the nose and get 2280 static rpm at 1050 MSL typically, will get even less if I coarsen the pitch as has been recommended to avoid overspeeding in cruise!) Would I do it again if I had it to do over? NO WAY! Not for the privilege of paying 20 cents per gallon more for hi-test when regular used to do. Also, I heard that 160hp was as high as one ought to push the O-320-E2D due to the small front main bearing (from an O-290; gee, thanks, Lycoming...) so you might be in relatively uncharted territory. Hope your mileage varies considerably from mine. -Stormy / 6-A, 386 hrs. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy(at)att.net>
Subject: Slider Canopy Rear Skirts ... No Problem!
Date: Jun 04, 2004
Hi all, Just wanted to share a few thoughts and "crow" about how well (and easy) my -7A slider canopy rear skirts were to install. Took all of 2.0 hours from start to finish and they are FLUSH! I was really dreading this step in the construction of the canopy after reading all the horror stories in the RV List archives and various email lists. Heck, even Van's construction manual warns "....installing the rear canopy skirts is perhaps the most difficult part of the entire canopy construction process.....". I dis-agree! It was the easiest part for me. I have a few ideas that may help dispell the fear of others who are not quite there. Read on..... First of all, none of this would have been possible without the help of my good friend and local -7A builder Tom Yaberg. Tom has helped and guided me every step of the way during the canopy construction from properly bending the canopy frame and attaching the "glass", as well as installing the side and rear canopy skirts. Tom recently completed his -7A slider canopy and it came out PERFECT. My canopy is coming along just as well thanks to Tom's skills and the fact the canopy construction is still fresh in his memory bank. Thank you, Tom! Here are a couple of tips: 1. Try to locate a local builder who has sucessfully built a good looking (and fitting) slider canopy that is willing to lend a hand. This is invaluable. Don't be afraid to ask for help. Offer cold beer and pizza, a couple of steak dinners, just do whatever it takes.... :-). It really takes two sets of hands to safely move the canopy on/off the frame and to pull those skirts tight! 2. Spend the time necessary to get the steel canopy frame bent as close as possible to the dimesions called out in the plans. Seems my canopy frame came from the factory in pretty good shape.... only took Tom and me about 3 hours of 'tweaking' and we only had to install/re-move the canopy frame about 2 dozen times from the fuselage. 3. I mis-takenly trimmed the canopy plexigalss within 3/8"-1/2" of the rear canopy frame where the skirts will be attached. The plans indicate you should leave approx. 1.5" of plexiglass back there. I didn't (again... by mistake) and I think this is another reason the rear skirts fit so well and easy. By cutting the plexiglass nearer the steel tube, I didn't have the "ski-slope/dove-tail" effect of the rear canopy to worry about.... It just didn't exist! 4. I placed a 1/8" AL space between the roll bar and the forward portion of the sliding canopy on both sides effectively holding it "open/ajar" while the rear skirts were fitted. This I believe also helped snug-up the skirts even more when the canopy is fully closed and latched. Hope this helps those that haven't quite gotten there yet on the canopy. I may have just gotten lucky, but I'm feeling pretty good about my "skirts" and canopy in general. Only thing left is to fiberglass the front windscreen and Tom has agreed to lend an expert hand there as well..... Take care, Jack Lockamy #71103 Camarillo, CA -7A slider canopy almost done ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com>
Subject: Home Wing Fly-in coming up!
Date: Jun 04, 2004
Don't miss the Thirteenth Annual Northwest RV Fly-In! Hosted by EAA Chapter 105 and Van's Air Force, Home Wing This is the premier RV event of the Northwest, with examples of every type (and then some): Van's prototypes, Rockets, and all manner of RV to admire and talk about. We'll have Vendors, and Flybys, and Burgers, an event t-shirt, and lots and lots of good RV cameraderie. Scappoose Airport (SPB) Saturday June 19, 2004 starting at 10:00 A.M. Details at www.eaa105.org. See you there! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 2004
From: Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com>
Subject: Re: [VAF Mailing List] Panel mounting a handheld GPS
"vansairforce <010201c449cd$c272e710$6401a8c0@dell8200> <07a901c449ed$332499d0$6400a8c0@bvd1>" <00a101c44a66$8e9efc00$6401a8c0@dell8200> No problem... You can pop the GPS out of the front too... There is a trim ring around the GPS in the front that cleans it all up. It mounts using nutplates in the panel... Take the ring off and you can pop out the gps... http://www.vafml.org/members/bmackey/panel/9.jpg http://www.vafml.org/members/bmackey/panel/3.jpg http://www.vafml.org/members/bmackey/panel/2.jpg If I were to do it again, and I guess I did on my -8A, I would make it angled more toward the pilot... On mine I made a little puck to use for mounting the GPS to the panel... It sticks out from the panel, but it is also pointing right where I want it.....and I am very happy with it... Follow the link below and scroll down to the "Garmin 196 Mounting" section... http://www.rv8a.com/upgrades/index.htm -Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> Subject: Re: [VAF Mailing List] Panel mounting a handheld GPS Bill, nice work, very creative! I may copy you, hope you don't mind. Randy ----- Original Message ----- From: Bill VonDane To: vansairforce(at)yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2004 9:34 PM Subject: Re: [VAF Mailing List] Panel mounting a handheld GPS Randy... you can sort of see how I did it in this photo: http://www.vafml.org/members/bmackey/panel/9.jpg Made a plate to attach the mount to, and then some stand offs to mount it to the panel with... the stand offs are delrin plastic and threaded on both ends... -Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> To: Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2004 6:45 PM Subject: Re: [VAF Mailing List] Panel mounting a handheld GPS Larry, how did you actually secure the GPS? I see a braket on the top but no means of attaching it to the GPS body. Thanks, Randy Lervold RV-8, 368 hrs RV-3B, empennage ----- Original Message ----- From: Larry Bowen To: vansairforce(at)yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2004 1:59 PM Subject: RE: [VAF Mailing List] Panel mounting a handheld GPS Yes. http://bowenaero.com/copper/displayimage.php?album=topn&cat=0&pos=3 - Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com > -----Original Message----- > From: hughpa16 [mailto:hugh@bi-tech.com] > Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2004 1:43 PM > To: vansairforce(at)yahoogroups.com > Subject: [VAF Mailing List] Panel mounting a handheld GPS > > > Is it legal to panel mount a handheld GPS in an Experimental > aircraft?? I am talking about a semi-permanent installation, not an > installation that would make for quick removal. Thanks. > > Hugh "McFly" > > > > > > --------------------~--> > Now with Pop-Up Blocker. Get it for free! > http://us.click.yahoo.com/L5YrjA/eSIIAA/yQLSAA/1yWplB/TM > ------~-> > > Online help on this group at: http://help.yahoo.com/help/groups/ > > > > > > > > Online help on this group at: http://help.yahoo.com/help/groups/ ADVERTISEMENT -- -- a.. To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/vansairforce/ b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: vansairforce-unsubscribe(at)yahoogroups.com Service. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Online help on this group at: http://help.yahoo.com/help/groups/ Online help on this group at: http://help.yahoo.com/help/groups/ ADVERTISEMENT -- a.. To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/vansairforce/ b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: vansairforce-unsubscribe(at)yahoogroups.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Now with Pop-Up Blocker. Get it for free! http://us.click.yahoo.com/L5YrjA/eSIIAA/yQLSAA/1yWplB/TM Online help on this group at: http://help.yahoo.com/help/groups/ <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/vansairforce/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: vansairforce-unsubscribe(at)yahoogroups.com http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mike Draper <mdraper(at)nww.com>
Subject: QB delivery logistics
Date: Jun 04, 2004
I am back in the building mode working on my emp and am just about to place an order for a QB fuse/wing.


May 25, 2004 - June 04, 2004

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