RV-Archive.digest.vol-pj
June 04, 2004 - June 15, 2004
My question to the group is one around logistics. Vans told me for
an addition $60 the trucking company can deliver to your door.
However, I was told that they trucker will not assist in the unloading.
Some folks have opted to pick up the crates at the terminal with a
uhaul rental. If you go this route, the folks at the terminal will
load your truck. You can then drive home and unpack at your leisure.
For those of you who have gone the home delivery option. How have
you unloaded the truck? Would you do it again or opt for a terminal
delivery?
Thanks in advance for sharing your experience.
Best,
Mike
Bridgewater, MA
RV-8 qb (finally)
Message
I am back in the building mode working on
my emp and am just about to
place an order for a QB fuse/wing.
My
question to the group is one around logistics. Vans told me for
an addition
$60 the trucking company can deliver to your door.
However, I was told that
theytrucker will not assist in the
unloading.
Some folks have opted to pick up the crates at the terminal
with a
uhaul rental. If you go this route, the folks at the terminal
will
load your truck. You can then drive home and unpack at your
leisure.
For those of you who have gone the home delivery option. How
have
you unloaded the truck? Would you
do it again or opt for a terminal delivery?
Thanks in advance for
sharing your experience.
Best,
Mike
Bridgewater, MA
RV-8 qb
(finally)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Curt" <choffman9(at)cinci.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: QB delivery logistics |
I went the terminal route for the QB fuselage. The wings I had the slow kit.
I liked the terminal method better since I could pick the time to get it to
my house, have some friends to help, and take my time unloading. Plus with
the Uhaul trailer, the box was only about 18" or so off the ground. And it
is a very big box. Hangs over the 12' flat bed trailer by a bit.
I will say the terminal in Cincinnati was not high on loading the box onto
my trailer. They don't have a good method to get it down to ground level. it
took them a while to agree to do it and then a while to get it down there
via a narrow twisty ramp. I told them they either get it on the trailer or
send it back to Oregon. Either way was ok with me but I wasn't paying unless
it was on my trailer or on the ground at my house.
It got to my trailer pretty quick after that.
Curt Hoffman
RV-9A Wings done, QB fuselage, tail about done
Cherokee N5320W
TR6 back to running with HS6 SUs
Harley Road King Classic
Maybe I need a sailboat
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Draper" <mdraper(at)nww.com>
Subject: RV-List: QB delivery logistics
>
> I am back in the building mode working on my emp and am just about to
> place an order for a QB fuse/wing.
>
> My question to the group is one around logistics. Vans told me for
> an addition $60 the trucking company can deliver to your door.
> However, I was told that they trucker will not assist in the unloading.
>
> Some folks have opted to pick up the crates at the terminal with a
> uhaul rental. If you go this route, the folks at the terminal will
> load your truck. You can then drive home and unpack at your leisure.
>
> For those of you who have gone the home delivery option. How have
> you unloaded the truck? Would you do it again or opt for a terminal
> delivery?
>
> Thanks in advance for sharing your experience.
>
> Best,
>
> Mike
> Bridgewater, MA
> RV-8 qb (finally)
>
>
> Message
>
>
>
> I am back in the building mode working on
> my emp and am just about to
> place an order for a QB fuse/wing.
>
> My
> question to the group is one around logistics. Vans told me for
> an addition
> $60 the trucking company can deliver to your door.
> However, I was told that
> theytrucker will not assist in the
> unloading.
>
> Some folks have opted to pick up the crates at the terminal
> with a
> uhaul rental. If you go this route, the folks at the terminal
> will
> load your truck. You can then drive home and unpack at your
> leisure.
>
> For those of you who have gone the home delivery option. How
> have
> you unloaded the truck? Would you
> do it again or opt for a terminal delivery?
>
> Thanks in advance for
> sharing your experience.
>
> Best,
>
> Mike
> Bridgewater, MA
> RV-8 qb
> (finally)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jamesbaldwin(at)attglobal.net |
I have seen several posts here with comments regarding speed vs
horsepower, most recently Bill Von Dan's comment on converting his 0-320
to 160 HP. Just so you other guys don't perform these engine hop-ups
to gain unattainable speed increases I hasten to point out that the
increase in speed (cruise) is the cube root of the horsepower ratio. In
other words, add an engine with 50% more power (pretty difficult without
increasing displacement) and you might see as much as 14% speed
increase. If it was a 170 mph airframe it would now cruise best case
at maybe 193 mph. Of course the big engine will have more cooling drag,
perhaps a larger cowl, etc., so the increase is more likely less.
A friend told me, after converting his Grumman Cheetah, 150 HP, to a
Tiger with 180 HP that his cruise was 20 mph faster. Of course large
numbers of beers were bet and only barely did I escape the Betty Ford
Clinic. The speed increase worked out to 6 mph which was very close to
the cube root of the HP ratio. Just thought you guys might like to know
before you spend the bucks upgrading. Now, if we're talking climb
numbers, the equation is much different and HP makes a bigger
difference. Good for a later post.
James Baldwin
SportAV8R(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>Bill- best of luck with the new engine.
>
>I did the belchfire upgrade to mine after a bad cam & followers episode, but only
went to 8.5:1, for a nominal 160 hp. Now I get to buy premium mogas at home
and 100LL while on the road (nobody sells premium mogas at FBO's) for an additional
10 hp, which has made little if any perceptible difference in performance
(I'm still limited to 2600 rpm by the Sensenich engineering marvel on the
nose and get 2280 static rpm at 1050 MSL typically, will get even less if I coarsen
the pitch as has been recommended to avoid overspeeding in cruise!) Would
I do it again if I had it to do over? NO WAY! Not for the privilege of
paying 20 cents per gallon more for hi-test when regular used to do. Also, I
heard that 160hp was as high as one ought to push the O-320-E2D due to the small
front main bearing (from an O-290; gee, thanks, Lycoming...) so you might be
in relatively uncharted territory.
>
>Hope your mileage varies considerably from mine.
>
>-Stormy / 6-A, 386 hrs.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Big Momma & Landings |
I find my -6 handles and performs just fine with a full load (1750) and two
people. I might give up a couple of hundred feet per minute in climb, even
with only 160 hp and a fixed pitch prop. There are some advantages too. With
the higher wing loading, it's noticably more solid in feel, which isn't a
bad thing on a cross country flight. What I dislike about flying with two is
the lack of space. RV-6s just don't have a lot of extra room. I'm the
broad-shouldered type and even with me and my small wife, I find it cramped.
I'd give up 10 knots for another 4" of width. Hmmm - maybe the next RV
should be a widebody varient...
Curt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | inner tube valve nut |
I just put my first wheel together. There is a washer and nut
installed on the inner tube valve as it comes out of the box. I don't
see anything useful to do with that nut and washer.
The part of the valve sticking out of the wheel isn't threaded all the
way down to where it emerges from the wheel, so the nut can't be made to
bear against that. Is the nut not used on the RV wheel? Or does it go
inside the wheel?
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, Landing gear
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Hog Air "T" shirts |
Hog Air "T" shirts are now available.
We have had alot of people asking for them. So I thought I'd let you
guys know. You can see them here http://www.hog-air.com/Shirts.htm
Thanks
Brett Ray
www.hog-air.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Abby Erdmann's Flight line interiors RV-6A |
Just wanted to know if any of you guys out there have purchased RV interiors
from Abby Erdmann? The specific questions that I have are:
1. How is the workmanship?
2. Are ALL the sidewall fabric and carpet pieces either pre cut or at least
marked out with a template or are you provided with rolls of fabric and carpet
unmarked?
3. Are detailed installation instructions provided?
Thanks for your imput>
Scott Morrow
RV-6A 95% Almost there
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Slider Canopy Rear Skirts ... No Problem! |
The rear skirts on my -7A slider canopy are TWO separate parts (LT and RT). Van's
did a pretty good job of laying these two parts out on a small sheet of AL
(you have to cut both of them out of blank material which has the patterns traced
onto them from the factory).
Jack Lockamy
Camarillo, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph Koger" <rhkoger(at)fbx.com> |
| Subject: | Boone Annual RV Day |
Join us Saturday June 12th for the "ANNUAL BOONE RV DAY"
See completed RVs and the many projects in process.
RV-6; three RV-7s; RV-8 and two RV-10s.
Planned presentations on many RV related topics.
Planning for the interior by DJ Lauritsen
Wireing Aircraft systems.
First Flight/transition by Stu VanDyke
Getting the most from your GPS by Chuck Genz
Doing a thorough annual by Dave Kuykendal
Of course the usual coffee & donuts and noon-catered lunch of BBQ Pork Sandwiches.
For more information Ralph Koger rhkoger(at)fbx.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Abby Erdmann's Flight line interiors RV-6A |
Hi
Got mine from Abby, she's really great to work with and will bend over
backwards to help if you have special requests. I know of 4 RV's here
that have Abby's interior and all are very pleased.
Oh Yeah, I got a RV8A and have not made a desision on sidewalls yet.
Don't know about *written* instructions as she came over in person to
supervise, now that's service ..................
Gert
Smcm75(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Just wanted to know if any of you guys out there have purchased RV interiors
> from Abby Erdmann? The specific questions that I have are:
>
> 1. How is the workmanship?
> 2. Are ALL the sidewall fabric and carpet pieces either pre cut or at least
> marked out with a template or are you provided with rolls of fabric and carpet
> unmarked?
> 3. Are detailed installation instructions provided?
>
> Thanks for your imput>
>
> Scott Morrow
> RV-6A 95% Almost there
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dr. Leathers" <DrLeathers(at)822heal.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Abby Erdmann's Flight line interiors RV-6A |
Is she the wife of the famous BearHawk builder?
Doc
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gert" <gert(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Abby Erdmann's Flight line interiors RV-6A
>
> Hi
>
> Got mine from Abby, she's really great to work with and will bend over
> backwards to help if you have special requests. I know of 4 RV's here
> that have Abby's interior and all are very pleased.
>
> Oh Yeah, I got a RV8A and have not made a desision on sidewalls yet.
> Don't know about *written* instructions as she came over in person to
> supervise, now that's service ..................
>
>
> Gert
>
> Smcm75(at)aol.com wrote:
> >
> > Just wanted to know if any of you guys out there have purchased RV
interiors
> > from Abby Erdmann? The specific questions that I have are:
> >
> > 1. How is the workmanship?
> > 2. Are ALL the sidewall fabric and carpet pieces either pre cut or at
least
> > marked out with a template or are you provided with rolls of fabric and
carpet
> > unmarked?
> > 3. Are detailed installation instructions provided?
> >
> > Thanks for your imput>
> >
> > Scott Morrow
> > RV-6A 95% Almost there
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
> is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alan Erickson" <alaner_rv8(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | QB delivery logistics |
|
|I am back in the building mode working on my emp and am just about to
|place an order for a QB fuse/wing.
|
|My question to the group is one around logistics. Vans told me for
|an addition $60 the trucking company can deliver to your door.
|However, I was told that they trucker will not assist in the unloading.
|
|Some folks have opted to pick up the crates at the terminal with a
|uhaul rental. If you go this route, the folks at the terminal will
|load your truck. You can then drive home and unpack at your leisure.
|
|For those of you who have gone the home delivery option. How have
|you unloaded the truck? Would you do it again or opt for a terminal
|delivery?
|
Great question! I solicited advice from many professionals, and nobody had
what I felt to be a safe solution for both the cargo and the guilty
bystanders. So: I built a little loading ramp, which took half a day and
<$100 in lumber. Here's a shot of the dev truck emitting my qb fuse crate;
I'm using a bar to ease the 2x4 foot over the lip of the ramp:
http://www.blarg.net/~ericka/ramp01.jpg (~100k)
The crate slides down the plywood ramp into the shop and onto furniture
dollys. The shop end of the ramp is about 1 dolly high, and the truck end is
about 3.5'. The ramp surface is 3/4" x 4' x 16' plywood and is supported by
three 2x8 beams (which is massive overkill but has good safety karma!). I
block the truck end of the ramp up to match the truck height after wheeling
it into position on a furniture dolly. I've used this ramp for the qb
fuse/emp, qb wings, and finish/fwf kits, and will use it again for the
engine in a coupla weeks (yayy!). Each unload was less than 10 minutes. I
and the delivery drivers have been very happy with this method; I wouldn't
choose to do anything differently.
Holler if you'd like more pics or description, I'll be glad to provide them.
Alan Erickson
8A (QB)
AeroSport Power IO360M1B6, 9.2:1, AFP, 2xPlasma
WW 200RV
Dynon, 430, SL30, 327, 2x106a, ACS2002
(...no longer lurking -- howdy, RV folks!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Slider Canopy Rear Skirts ... No Problem! |
I would put some anti-chafe material on the skirt right away before you
start to scratch the skin. Mine is starting to get a little banged up and
it doesnt fit very well.
Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
68 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy(at)att.net>
Subject: RV-List: Slider Canopy Rear Skirts ... No Problem!
>
> Hi all,
>
> Just wanted to share a few thoughts and "crow" about how well (and easy)
my -7A slider canopy rear skirts were to install. Took all of 2.0 hours
from start to finish and they are FLUSH! I was really dreading this step in
the construction of the canopy after reading all the horror stories in the
RV List archives and various email lists. Heck, even Van's construction
manual warns "....installing the rear canopy skirts is perhaps the most
difficult part of the entire canopy construction process.....". I
dis-agree! It was the easiest part for me. I have a few ideas that may
help dispell the fear of others who are not quite there. Read on.....
>
> First of all, none of this would have been possible without the help of my
good friend and local -7A builder Tom Yaberg. Tom has helped and guided me
every step of the way during the canopy construction from properly bending
the canopy frame and attaching the "glass", as well as installing the side
and rear canopy skirts. Tom recently completed his -7A slider canopy and it
came out PERFECT. My canopy is coming along just as well thanks to Tom's
skills and the fact the canopy construction is still fresh in his memory
bank. Thank you, Tom!
>
> Here are a couple of tips:
>
> 1. Try to locate a local builder who has sucessfully built a good looking
(and fitting) slider canopy that is willing to lend a hand. This is
invaluable. Don't be afraid to ask for help. Offer cold beer and pizza, a
couple of steak dinners, just do whatever it takes.... :-). It really takes
two sets of hands to safely move the canopy on/off the frame and to pull
those skirts tight!
>
> 2. Spend the time necessary to get the steel canopy frame bent as close
as possible to the dimesions called out in the plans. Seems my canopy frame
came from the factory in pretty good shape.... only took Tom and me about 3
hours of 'tweaking' and we only had to install/re-move the canopy frame
about 2 dozen times from the fuselage.
>
> 3. I mis-takenly trimmed the canopy plexigalss within 3/8"-1/2" of the
rear canopy frame where the skirts will be attached. The plans indicate you
should leave approx. 1.5" of plexiglass back there. I didn't (again... by
mistake) and I think this is another reason the rear skirts fit so well and
easy. By cutting the plexiglass nearer the steel tube, I didn't have the
"ski-slope/dove-tail" effect of the rear canopy to worry about.... It just
didn't exist!
>
> 4. I placed a 1/8" AL space between the roll bar and the forward portion
of the sliding canopy on both sides effectively holding it "open/ajar" while
the rear skirts were fitted. This I believe also helped snug-up the skirts
even more when the canopy is fully closed and latched.
>
> Hope this helps those that haven't quite gotten there yet on the canopy.
I may have just gotten lucky, but I'm feeling pretty good about my "skirts"
and canopy in general. Only thing left is to fiberglass the front
windscreen and Tom has agreed to lend an expert hand there as well.....
>
> Take care,
> Jack Lockamy #71103
> Camarillo, CA
> -7A slider canopy almost done
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Slider Canopy Rear Skirts ... No Problem! |
Im thinking of cutting nothces out of my fairing so that I can bend it to
fit perfectly and then lay some glass up over the notched skirt. Any
suggestions?
Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
68 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy(at)att.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Slider Canopy Rear Skirts ... No Problem!
>
> The rear skirts on my -7A slider canopy are TWO separate parts (LT and
RT). Van's did a pretty good job of laying these two parts out on a small
sheet of AL (you have to cut both of them out of blank material which has
the patterns traced onto them from the factory).
>
> Jack Lockamy
> Camarillo, CA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard V. Reynolds" <rvreynolds(at)macs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Boone Annual RV Day |
How much trouble would it be to include AIRPORT, CITY, STATE??????
Inquiring minds would like to know!
Richard Reynolds
Ralph Koger wrote:
>
> Join us Saturday June 12th for the "ANNUAL BOONE RV DAY"
>
> See completed RVs and the many projects in process.
> RV-6; three RV-7s; RV-8 and two RV-10s.
>
> Planned presentations on many RV related topics.
>
> Planning for the interior by DJ Lauritsen
> Wireing Aircraft systems.
> First Flight/transition by Stu VanDyke
> Getting the most from your GPS by Chuck Genz
> Doing a thorough annual by Dave Kuykendal
>
> Of course the usual coffee & donuts and noon-catered lunch of BBQ Pork Sandwiches.
>
> For more information Ralph Koger rhkoger(at)fbx.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: QB delivery logistics |
| From: | Thomas E Doran <dorante(at)juno.com> |
Mike:
I received my QB fuse/wing shipment about 2 years ago. Here are
my recommendations:
1. Accept delivery at the terminal. Depending on where you
live, it may not be possible to get a tractor trailer into your driveway.
(Although the QB fits in a large van, don't expect the delivery agency to
deliver it in one.) I live in the country, and for delivery of another
large item, the truck driver refused to come in my driveway. That is
another long story, but my experience with home delivery has been bad.
The drivers don't show up when they are scheduled to, offer no help, and
give you 30 minutes to unload.
2. Rent a large van truck. It cost me about $250 and I had to
drive almost 200 miles total. Most terminals only have the ability to
unload and load at the standard height of a truck or trailer backed up to
the loading dock. I don't remember the exact height, but it is about 48"
above the ground. The terminal I used would not load onto a low
trailer. Their fork truck did not leave the warehouse/transfer building.
3. Make sure that you check with the transport company to make
sure they accept personal checks. I brought cash.
4. Once you are at the terminal, take a Valium before watching
the unloading and reloading by the fork lift driver. Thank heavens that
Van's builds a strong crate and does an excellent job of packaging.
Van's marks the box as "High Value Airplane Parts", but that serves
little purpose since I doubt the fork lift operator could read. The QB is
a very large box, and in not easily forked. Therefore, it is usually
pushed around with an empty pallet on the forks, or otherwise abused. I
had to help the forklift operator. He could not get the Fuse Box off the
delivery truck. He tried to pick up one end and drag it out, but it kept
falling off the forks. I had brought 50' of 3/8 nylon rope. I finally
convinced him to tie the box to the fork trunk and that held it on the
forks, allowing it to be dragged. The unloading from the delivery truck
and loading into the rented van was quite traumatic. I expect that my
experience in probably not normal, but be prepared for an interesting
time. The wing box is very long, tall and slender. It is difficult to
handle since it is "tipsy". It is not real heavy, but be careful. Make
sure you bring rope, tie down straps, wood blocks, nails and a hammer (or
long screws and a battery screw driver) to secure the two boxes in the
van prior to departing the terminal. Screw the woodblocks to the floor
of the truck to keep the boxes from sliding around.
5. Once at home, I actually unloaded the boxes by myself. I do
not recommend this. I have a front end loader that helped me, but it
was very difficult.. I recommend getting 3 or 4 friends to help.
6. Unload the fuse box first. Run the rope around the front of
the box and drag it out the back of the truck. Once it is about 5 or 6
feet out of the truck, build a support by making two columns of cinder
blocks with a 4x4 across them to support that end of the box. Two people
and lift one end of the box to allow the 4x4 to be placed under that end.
Now, secure the rope you have running around the front of the truck to
some immovable object, like a car or a tree, and slowly start moving the
van forward, till about 3-4 feet of the box is still in the truck. You
will have moved forward about 10 feet. Now build another set of support
columns and a 4x4 next to the truck to support that end of the box. You
should now have the box sitting up in the air supported on four columns
of cinder blocks and can drive the truck away.
7. Now, have two men lift one end, and remove one cinder block
from the columns on one end. Do the same on the other end, and repeat
this till the box is on the ground. If eight inch increments (height of
one cinder block) is too much use 4" wood blocks to lower it 4'' at a
time on each end. I did this process by myself, but I used my loader to
lift the end of the box.
8. To unload the wings, I used the ramp that came with the
truck. I slid the wing box, using a pry bar, to the center of the truck
and lined it up with the ramp. I then pushed it out onto the ramp. The
scary part was when the wing box was half way out of the truck and I had
to lift the end in the truck to get the box in line with the ramp. Use
ropes attached to the top and held securely by helpers on each side to
keep the box from tipping over. Once it is on the ramp, just let it
slowly slide down. One the box front edge hits the ground, you can just
lift it and drag if off the ramp. Again, have a helper on each side to
keep if balanced.
9. If you have some 2" plastic pipe, you can these as rollers to
help you move it around. The boxes have 2x4 cross braces on the bottom
which interfere with these rollers, but they help some. The boxes are
light enough that they can be pushed and dragged on concrete without much
difficulty by 2 people.
Hope this helps. Don't forget the camera. (and the beer and burgers for
your helpers)
Happy building,
TOM
RV 6A, QB (making slow progress)
>
> I am back in the building mode working on my emp and am just about
> to
> place an order for a QB fuse/wing.
>
> My question to the group is one around logistics. Vans told me for
> an addition $60 the trucking company can deliver to your door.
> However, I was told that they trucker will not assist in the
> unloading.
>
> Some folks have opted to pick up the crates at the terminal with a
> uhaul rental. If you go this route, the folks at the terminal will
> load your truck. You can then drive home and unpack at your
> leisure.
>
> For those of you who have gone the home delivery option. How have
> you unloaded the truck? Would you do it again or opt for a
> terminal
> delivery?
>
> Thanks in advance for sharing your experience.
>
> Best,
>
> Mike
> Bridgewater, MA
> RV-8 qb (finally)
>
>
> Message
>
>
>
> I am back in the building mode working on
> my emp and am just about to
> place an order for a QB fuse/wing.
>
> My
> question to the group is one around logistics. Vans told me for
> an addition
> $60 the trucking company can deliver to your door.
> However, I was told that
> theytrucker will not assist in the
> unloading.
>
> Some folks have opted to pick up the crates at the terminal
> with a
> uhaul rental. If you go this route, the folks at the terminal
> will
> load your truck. You can then drive home and unpack at your
> leisure.
>
> For those of you who have gone the home delivery option. How
> have
> you unloaded the truck? Would you
> do it again or opt for a terminal delivery?
>
> Thanks in advance for
> sharing your experience.
>
> Best,
>
> Mike
> Bridgewater, MA
> RV-8 qb
> (finally)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Abby Erdmann's Flight line interiors RV-6A |
Nope, different Erdmann.
Dr. Leathers wrote:
>
>Is she the wife of the famous BearHawk builder?
>
>Doc
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Gert" <gert(at)execpc.com>
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Abby Erdmann's Flight line interiors RV-6A
>
>
>
>
>>
>>Hi
>>
>>Got mine from Abby, she's really great to work with and will bend over
>>backwards to help if you have special requests. I know of 4 RV's here
>>that have Abby's interior and all are very pleased.
>>
>>Oh Yeah, I got a RV8A and have not made a desision on sidewalls yet.
>>Don't know about *written* instructions as she came over in person to
>>supervise, now that's service ..................
>>
>>
>>Gert
>>
>>Smcm75(at)aol.com wrote:
>>
>>
>>>
>>>Just wanted to know if any of you guys out there have purchased RV
>>>
>>>
>interiors
>
>
>>>from Abby Erdmann? The specific questions that I have are:
>>>
>>>1. How is the workmanship?
>>>2. Are ALL the sidewall fabric and carpet pieces either pre cut or at
>>>
>>>
>least
>
>
>>>marked out with a template or are you provided with rolls of fabric and
>>>
>>>
>carpet
>
>
>>>unmarked?
>>>3. Are detailed installation instructions provided?
>>>
>>>Thanks for your imput>
>>>
>>>Scott Morrow
>>>RV-6A 95% Almost there
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>--
>>is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Expired Sectionals |
Does anybody know of a source for expired sectionals?? I need some of these
for "pre" flight planning purposes. It could be useful in helping to
establish a trip plan.
Thanks
Jim Nice
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Abby Erdmann's Flight line interiors RV-6A |
----- Original Message -----
From: <Smcm75(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Abby Erdmann's Flight line interiors RV-6A
>
> Just wanted to know if any of you guys out there have purchased RV
interiors
> from Abby Erdmann? The specific questions that I have are:
>
> 1. How is the workmanship?
It is very good. Good material.
> 2. Are ALL the sidewall fabric and carpet pieces either pre cut or at
least
> marked out with a template or are you provided with rolls of fabric and
carpet
> unmarked?
Yes.
> 3. Are detailed installation instructions provided?
Yes.
>
> Thanks for your imput>
I have not fully installed it yet, but it looks to be all there. I found
Abby to be easy to work with. Nice person in addition. Seems willing to do
any thing to make you happy with her work.
>
> Scott Morrow
> RV-6A 95% Almost there
>
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph Koger" <rhkoger(at)fbx.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Boone Annual RV Day |
Sorry about not giving complete information about location of Boone, IA RV
day. Airport indemnification is BNW. Also, forgot to say that there is a
swap for cash or trade items. If you come you can buy a Koger SunShade at
wholesale price. Thank you for bringing this to my attention.
>
> >
> > Join us Saturday June 12th for the "ANNUAL BOONE RV DAY"
> >
> > See completed RVs and the many projects in process.
> > RV-6; three RV-7s; RV-8 and two RV-10s.
> >
> > Planned presentations on many RV related topics.
> >
> > Planning for the interior by DJ Lauritsen
> > Wireing Aircraft systems.
> > First Flight/transition by Stu VanDyke
> > Getting the most from your GPS by Chuck Genz
> > Doing a thorough annual by Dave Kuykendal
> >
> > Of course the usual coffee & donuts and noon-catered lunch of BBQ Pork
Sandwiches.
> >
> > For more information Ralph Koger rhkoger(at)fbx.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Abby Erdmann's Flight line interiors RV-6A |
Abby Erdmann will work with you until completely satisfied. How do I know? I
ordered aileron boots from her but she had no pattern for the RV-6 series. I sent
her a rough drawing and based upon that, made up a pair of boots but alas,
did not fit. The second try was somewhat better, but still not perfect. Finally,
for the third try, I sent her a full scale aluminum doubler/retaining ring
that I fabricated for use in my 6A aileron boot installation and she sized the
boots accordingly....and I had them within a week. In the end, my out of pocket
cost was for postage only, because in Abby's opinion I provided her the
means to offer aileron boots for the RV-6 series. Her workmanship, people skills,
and dedication to craft is truly outstanding.
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla" "finishing"
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve & Denise" <sjhdcl(at)kingston.net> |
"RV List"
| Subject: | Transponder not working |
Today my transponder quit working. I have a GTX327 and an A-30 encoder wired using
Approach Avionics hub.
The transponder still shows the reply being carried out but ATC could not pick
me up.
The antenna is located far enough away from the comm antenna.
I have checked the BNC connector on antenna.
I'm going to order a different antenna and try that. The antenna I have is the
normal rod type with the ball on the end.
I've seen this problem with Microair transponders before and it turned out to be
a problem with the unit. I've never heard
of a problem with the 327.
I do let the encoder warm up. On this mornings flight it was intermittent and ATC
commented that I came in and out when
I maneuvered. Can't really prove this as ot doesn't happen all the time. Then after
flying for 1.5 hours I returned to the airport
and ATC never received my transponder at all. No position, no altitude.
Any other ideas of how to trouble shot this?
Thanks
Steve Hurlbut
RV7A
90 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
,
| Subject: | For Sale: RV-7A QB kit + completed empennage |
I'm posting this for a friend.
Don't feel like waiting for the QB lead time? Snag these RV-7A QB wings &
fuselage kits still in the crates:
http://www.rvproject.com/forsale/qb.html
Respond to Gordon directly (his contact info is on that page).
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Flying RV's in Ontario |
>
>In the last 60 days, Terry Kohler has flown his RV-9 and I have flown my
>RV6 into Ontario, (twice). We met some great people and saw some good
>looking RV's.
>
>Just a note: This week I received a bill from Nav Canada for "charges
>for air navigation", the amount $CAN 17.39. I called 1-800-876-4693 and
>explained to them that my aircraft weight was under 617kg (1,360
>pounds). They told me that I was exempt and I was not required to pay
>the bill. The lady I spoke with at Nav Canada was polite and very
>helpful. All they asked was that I fax them my documented weight.
>
>Ted Gauthier, RV-6
>140 hours
>Pontiac, Michigan USA
Unfortunately the charges are based on maximum take-off weight. The
document that details the Nav Canada charges has the following
definition of weight:
""weight", in relation to an aircraft, means the maximum permissible
take-off weight (MTOW) specified in the aircraft's certificate of
airworthiness or in a document referred to in that certificate."
<http://www.navcanada.ca/ContentDefinitionFiles/Services/ChargesAndAdmin/guidetocharges/Customer_Guide_to_Charges_en.pdf>
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | A question of size |
| From: | "Tim Butterworth" <Tim.Butterworth(at)cvluk.com> |
A general question if I can please. I am on the verge of starting an RV9 build
project from the standard kit. My big reservation is that I only have a single
garage measuring 18.5 feet x 7.5 feet. Given that the finished fuselage length
is 20.5, is it wishful thinking that I can complete the task in such a small
place? Has anyone else done this and are there any trick to the trade?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Second hand tools |
| From: | "Tim Butterworth" <Tim.Butterworth(at)cvluk.com> |
Hi, before I launch into a new build project (in the UK), can I ask if anyone who
has recently completed a kit would consider selling tools to help me out. I
would consider a set from the US if we can sort reasonable shipping costs. A
pneumatic riveter sounds a rather handy tool to start with!!
Thanks
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Transponder not working |
Steve,
I had the same problem last year. Finally took it over
to Muncie Indiana and had an electronic shop look at
it. They found that I had failed to install the snap
ring that holds the antenna wire to the case. My
antenna wire was loose from the back of the
transponder. So I would check and make sure all your
antenna wires are solid.
Good Luck
Dan DeNeal
RV6a 150 hrs.
--- Steve & Denise wrote:
>
>
> Today my transponder quit working. I have a GTX327
> and an A-30 encoder wired using Approach Avionics
> hub.
>
> The transponder still shows the reply being carried
> out but ATC could not pick me up.
>
> The antenna is located far enough away from the comm
> antenna.
> I have checked the BNC connector on antenna.
>
> I'm going to order a different antenna and try that.
> The antenna I have is the normal rod type with the
> ball on the end.
> I've seen this problem with Microair transponders
> before and it turned out to be a problem with the
> unit. I've never heard
> of a problem with the 327.
>
> I do let the encoder warm up. On this mornings
> flight it was intermittent and ATC commented that I
> came in and out when
> I maneuvered. Can't really prove this as ot doesn't
> happen all the time. Then after flying for 1.5 hours
> I returned to the airport
> and ATC never received my transponder at all. No
> position, no altitude.
>
> Any other ideas of how to trouble shot this?
>
> Thanks
> Steve Hurlbut
> RV7A
> 90 hours
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://messenger.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve & Denise" <sjhdcl(at)kingston.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Transponder not working |
Did you still see the reply light come on if this is the problem?
Steve
RV7A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan DeNeal" <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Transponder not working
>
> Steve,
> I had the same problem last year. Finally took it over
> to Muncie Indiana and had an electronic shop look at
> it. They found that I had failed to install the snap
> ring that holds the antenna wire to the case. My
> antenna wire was loose from the back of the
> transponder. So I would check and make sure all your
> antenna wires are solid.
>
> Good Luck
> Dan DeNeal
> RV6a 150 hrs.
>
>
> --- Steve & Denise wrote:
> >
> >
> > Today my transponder quit working. I have a GTX327
> > and an A-30 encoder wired using Approach Avionics
> > hub.
> >
> > The transponder still shows the reply being carried
> > out but ATC could not pick me up.
> >
> > The antenna is located far enough away from the comm
> > antenna.
> > I have checked the BNC connector on antenna.
> >
> > I'm going to order a different antenna and try that.
> > The antenna I have is the normal rod type with the
> > ball on the end.
> > I've seen this problem with Microair transponders
> > before and it turned out to be a problem with the
> > unit. I've never heard
> > of a problem with the 327.
> >
> > I do let the encoder warm up. On this mornings
> > flight it was intermittent and ATC commented that I
> > came in and out when
> > I maneuvered. Can't really prove this as ot doesn't
> > happen all the time. Then after flying for 1.5 hours
> > I returned to the airport
> > and ATC never received my transponder at all. No
> > position, no altitude.
> >
> > Any other ideas of how to trouble shot this?
> >
> > Thanks
> > Steve Hurlbut
> > RV7A
> > 90 hours
> >
> >
> >
> > Contributions
> > any other
> > Forums.
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/chat
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> __________________________________
> http://messenger.yahoo.com/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: A question of size |
Can you complete the project in that space? Probably not. However, if
you're motivated, you can build the wings, tail, and fuselage there. Then
you'll need to take the beast outside on a series of nice days to fit the
empennage and wings. With the flying surfaces removed, you should be able
to install the engine in the space you describe.
After that, it is a matter of taking all of the big pieces to the airport
and fitting them together in the shape of an airplane.
The bottom line is that a space that small will make the overall process
more difficult, but it can be done..
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Butterworth" <Tim.Butterworth(at)cvluk.com>
Subject: RV-List: A question of size
>
> A general question if I can please. I am on the verge of starting an RV9
build project from the standard kit. My big reservation is that I only have
a single garage measuring 18.5 feet x 7.5 feet. Given that the finished
fuselage length is 20.5, is it wishful thinking that I can complete the task
in such a small place? Has anyone else done this and are there any trick to
the trade?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Expired Sectionals |
JNice51355(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>Does anybody know of a source for expired sectionals?? I need some of these
>for "pre" flight planning purposes. It could be useful in helping to
>establish a trip plan.
>Thanks
>Jim Nice
>
>
>
>
Check with http://www.buildersbooks.com/ I think they will send you
expired sectionals with an order.
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Birkelbach" <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
| Subject: | Re: A question of size |
No Doubt that will be tight, but I think that it can be done. You'll
probably have to have some place to store the stuff when you finish. Rent
some storage close to home for the tail and the wings as you finish them.
Remember that the finished length of the fuselage includes the rudder,
engine and spinner. My guess is that it'll fit in your space okay until you
are ready to assemble it. Then you'll probably have to move to the airport
and finish in the hangar.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach
RV7 727WB(Reserved)
http://www.myrv7.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Butterworth" <Tim.Butterworth(at)cvluk.com>
Subject: RV-List: A question of size
>
> A general question if I can please. I am on the verge of starting an RV9
build project from the standard kit. My big reservation is that I only have
a single garage measuring 18.5 feet x 7.5 feet. Given that the finished
fuselage length is 20.5, is it wishful thinking that I can complete the task
in such a small place? Has anyone else done this and are there any trick to
the trade?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Expired Sectionals |
In a message dated 6/6/04 8:01:07 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
bhester(at)hopkinsville.net writes:
> Check with http://www.buildersbooks.com/ I think they will send you
> expired sectionals with an order.
>
Thanks. That was the reference I needed.
Jim Nice
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Abby Erdmann's Flight line interiors RV-6A |
1. OUTSTANDING! The workmanship is first class.....
2. All pieces are pre-cut. Glue and go.... No templates required.
3. Yes (in color....)
Wonderful lady to work with. Most importantly to me... she ships your interior
in a very timely manner (3 weeks in my case) and when she promised it (unlike
a lot of other vendors I have worked with).
I highly recommend Abby. Her interiors are a work of art!!!
Jack Lockamy
Camarillo, CA
-7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Expired Sectionals |
Jim,
If we have expired charts left when the new revisions come out, I am always
glad to give them away. However we no longer keep them for that purpose or
advertise their availablility.
I did this a few years ago and it caused too many problems. We'd offer free
expired charts with any purchase (so I'd have a means of covering the
shipping cost) People would request a list of 25-30 free charts and then
I'd get hate mail for the next couple months cause I only had 22-23 of them.
This happened more often than you can imagine. So now, we clip the corners
for credit and use the rest of the chart for box stuffing.
Best thing to do if you want some is write to me 4-5 days before any new set
of revisions comes out and ask to be sent a copy of whatever is available.
No promisses, but I'll be happy to send whatever I've got. But please do so
with an order, even a small one, just so we have a manner to cover the
shipping cost.
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
www.buildersbooks.com
PilotsBooks
www.Pilotsbooks.com
> Check with http://www.buildersbooks.com/ I think they will send you
> expired sectionals with an order.
>
> --
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Slider Canopy Rear Skirts ... No Problem! |
Jeff,
That was a question I was gonna ask.... should the 1/2" UHMV tape called for in
the plans be placed on the skirts or on the fuselage (after painting)?
Jack Lockamy
Camarillo, CA
-7A slider
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Slider Canopy Rear Skirts ... No Problem! |
I have tried it both ways and prefer the tape on the skirt, since it
doesn't show.
On Jun 6, 2004, at 10:19 AM, Jack Lockamy wrote:
>
> Jeff,
>
> That was a question I was gonna ask.... should the 1/2" UHMV tape
> called for in the plans be placed on the skirts or on the fuselage
> (after painting)?
>
> Jack Lockamy
> Camarillo, CA
> -7A slider
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Emmanuelle Richard <frenchflyer21(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Transponder not working |
I'm having the same situation. My set up is GTX 327, Ameriking AK-350 encoder
and blade antenna. All 3 years old.
Noticed the problem first when ATC could not pick me up and asked me to turn my
Xpdr on after T/Off - it was already on mode C the whole time. I checked the
BNC connections and cleaned the antenna. Another time ATC asked me to confirm
what altitude I was at and to turn off mode C. I noticed the "pressure altitude"
window indicate erratic altitudes once in a while, like you are at 2200ft
and it cycles through 1300, 6700, 5900, and settles on 2200. Also the (R) that
flashes on/off when the xpdr is interrogated does not flash as fast as it
used to. Anyway, problem appears to be intermittent.
I heard that Ameriking encoders tend to be the weak link. Would appreciate input
on that.
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "sportpilot" <sportpilot(at)moneypit.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Abby Erdmann's Flight line interiors RV-6A |
whats the name of her company ?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy(at)att.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Abby Erdmann's Flight line interiors RV-6A
>
> 1. OUTSTANDING! The workmanship is first class.....
>
> 2. All pieces are pre-cut. Glue and go.... No templates required.
>
> 3. Yes (in color....)
>
> Wonderful lady to work with. Most importantly to me... she ships your
interior in a very timely manner (3 weeks in my case) and when she promised
it (unlike a lot of other vendors I have worked with).
>
> I highly recommend Abby. Her interiors are a work of art!!!
>
> Jack Lockamy
> Camarillo, CA
> -7A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Abby Erdmann's Flight line interiors RV-6A |
Flightline Interiors, LLC. at http://my.execpc.com/~erdmannb/index.htm
Dick Tasker, 90573
sportpilot wrote:
>
>whats the name of her company ?
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy(at)att.net>
>To: "RV List"
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Abby Erdmann's Flight line interiors RV-6A
>
>
>
>
>>
>>1. OUTSTANDING! The workmanship is first class.....
>>
>>2. All pieces are pre-cut. Glue and go.... No templates required.
>>
>>3. Yes (in color....)
>>
>>Wonderful lady to work with. Most importantly to me... she ships your
>>
>>
>interior in a very timely manner (3 weeks in my case) and when she promised
>it (unlike a lot of other vendors I have worked with).
>
>
>>I highly recommend Abby. Her interiors are a work of art!!!
>>
>>Jack Lockamy
>>Camarillo, CA
>>-7A
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Expired Sectionals |
Jim,
Here's another suggestion. The huge wall charts you see at some FBOs are called
JNC charts. Three make up the country (east, central, and west). they are
not expensive. The set of 3 is just $12.50. They show airports, VORs, some special
use airspace, and terrain. They are not revised very often, so you can't
use them for navigation, but they are perfectly good for initial planning.
Also, WACs are good for planning and have a 12 month revision life, as is a current
IFR/VFR planning chart, but those only show airports and airways - not terrain.
All three types are in the "other charts" section off of the Nav Charts category
on both Builder's Books and PilotsBooks
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
www.buildersbooks.com
PilotsBooks
www.pilotsbooks.com
800 780-4115
----- Original Message -----
From: JNice51355(at)aol.com
To: winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com
Sent: Sunday, June 06, 2004 10:45 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Expired Sectionals
In a message dated 6/6/04 9:19:57 AM Pacific Daylight Time, winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com
writes:
People would request a list of 25-30 free charts and then
I'd get hate mail for the next couple months cause I only had 22-23 of them.
Andy
I had sent you another email through one of the web sites before reading this
email. Sorry that folks send "hate mail". There's no excuse for that. For
the sake of your sanity, I will order from you through the web site, sectionals
I need that "will not" expire before or during my planned excursion. I will
just have to go down to the FBO and do some planning with the old charts on the
"wall", even if I need a ladder. They will not mind, since I am the one that
gave them most of those old maps. Just "can't wait" to formulate a "trip plan",
even though I "know" there will be changes along the way.
Thanks
Jim Nice
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve & Denise" <sjhdcl(at)kingston.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Transponder not working |
My pressure altitude indication is pretty consistent. No problems there.
Its a tough problem to solve because recently the radar system has been
changed in this area. We are interrogated with 3 different
radars now all feeding into 1 system. Hard to say whos doing the
interrogation. I'll try calling different radar centres tomorrow
and see if anybody get me. I've always hated BNC connectors. That tiny pin
is side is not the best as far as I'm concerned. My
radio antenna has a screw terminal on it and its the best I've seen by far.
I'll try the BNC connection on the back of the transponder first.
Any others experienced in this please speak up.
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: "Emmanuelle Richard" <frenchflyer21(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Transponder not working
>
> I'm having the same situation. My set up is GTX 327, Ameriking AK-350
encoder and blade antenna. All 3 years old.
>
> Noticed the problem first when ATC could not pick me up and asked me to
turn my Xpdr on after T/Off - it was already on mode C the whole time. I
checked the BNC connections and cleaned the antenna. Another time ATC asked
me to confirm what altitude I was at and to turn off mode C. I noticed the
"pressure altitude" window indicate erratic altitudes once in a while, like
you are at 2200ft and it cycles through 1300, 6700, 5900, and settles on
2200. Also the (R) that flashes on/off when the xpdr is interrogated does
not flash as fast as it used to. Anyway, problem appears to be
intermittent.
>
> I heard that Ameriking encoders tend to be the weak link. Would
appreciate input on that.
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harvey Sigmon" <rv6hes(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Transponder not working |
Steve: I had a similar problem with my transponder, I tried every thing, it
would work fine on the ground with the test box connected. In flight no
reply, finally I checked the BNC connector at the antenna for the second
time. It had failed to the point you could pull it out of the connector.
It seems the vibration on the floor made the connection fail. Man it was
sure frustrating. Do not give up on the antenna wire connector.
Harvey Sigmon RV-6A flying
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve & Denise" <sjhdcl(at)kingston.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Transponder not working
>
> My pressure altitude indication is pretty consistent. No problems there.
>
> Its a tough problem to solve because recently the radar system has been
> changed in this area. We are interrogated with 3 different
> radars now all feeding into 1 system. Hard to say whos doing the
> interrogation. I'll try calling different radar centres tomorrow
> and see if anybody get me. I've always hated BNC connectors. That tiny pin
> is side is not the best as far as I'm concerned. My
> radio antenna has a screw terminal on it and its the best I've seen by
far.
>
> I'll try the BNC connection on the back of the transponder first.
>
> Any others experienced in this please speak up.
>
> Steve
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Emmanuelle Richard" <frenchflyer21(at)yahoo.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Transponder not working
>
>
>
> >
> > I'm having the same situation. My set up is GTX 327, Ameriking AK-350
> encoder and blade antenna. All 3 years old.
> >
> > Noticed the problem first when ATC could not pick me up and asked me to
> turn my Xpdr on after T/Off - it was already on mode C the whole time. I
> checked the BNC connections and cleaned the antenna. Another time ATC
asked
> me to confirm what altitude I was at and to turn off mode C. I noticed
the
> "pressure altitude" window indicate erratic altitudes once in a while,
like
> you are at 2200ft and it cycles through 1300, 6700, 5900, and settles on
> 2200. Also the (R) that flashes on/off when the xpdr is interrogated does
> not flash as fast as it used to. Anyway, problem appears to be
> intermittent.
> >
> > I heard that Ameriking encoders tend to be the weak link. Would
> appreciate input on that.
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: A question of size |
>> Can you complete the project in that space? Probably not. However, if
you're motivated, you can build the wings, tail, and fuselage there. Then
you'll need to take the beast outside on a series of nice days to fit the
empennage and wings. With the flying surfaces removed, you should be able
to install the engine in the space you describe. <<
You will vastly improve your capability to finish your project with greater
quality if you configure your project environment to be as comfortable and
as accommodating as possible. You will spend a lot of time there. Make it
an enjoyable experience.
I can't imagine how you can make a plane in an 18.5' x 7.5' garage. I'm 95%
done on the same RV-9A. At the time that you "flip the canoe" so that the
fuselage is right side up you will still be near the beginning of the
project. BTW: You have to put the engine mount on before you do the legs.
The legs and steps use up all of your 7.5'. Do you plan to put primer on
your metal? You will need a safe place nearby - with a separate breathable
air source, to prep and paint both large and small pieces. You will also
need a work bench where you can run a bench grinder, drill press, etc. It
needs a runout area. You will also need a work table for most of your work.
Many things are done "in assembly" or require detailed fitting. Takes work
space and walk around space. Needs to be near the project. Do you plan to
use air tools for painting and assembly work (where will you put the
compressor?). Where will you put your file drawers for parts and hardware?
Needs to be near your work table and the project. Where will you be able to
lay out one or two drawings, the parts, the tools, the builder's manual and
the hardware as well as be able to work on the assembly at the same time.
Do you have room to sit down (concrete floors are hard)? Can you make a
coffee, have a visitor, play a radio, etc., etc.? Building is a lifestyle
that will define your life. Increase your odds of completing your plane as
well as having fun.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jordan Grant" <gra9933(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Airflow Performance (AFP) fuel hose routing |
Listers:
I am working on the fuel system for my Airflow Performance Fuel
Injection. My XP-360 came from Aerosport power with the "distribution"
manifold already mounted on the top of the engine. It has a fuel hose coming
out of the bottom of it and routed down between the two cylinders on the
right side of the engine. My question is:
How should I route this hose to get to the AFP throttle body?
Right now, my best theory is to take it aft immediately under the
cylinders - this puts it in-between the cylinders and the intake manifold
pipes. Then route it over the bracket that mounts the mixture control and
into the fitting on the throttle body. My only concern is that this makes
some relatively sharp bends in the hose. I don't 'think' that there are any
kinks in the hose this way, but its a pretty important hose so I thought I'd
ask to see what others have done in case there is a better way.
Thanks in advance,
Jordan Grant
RV-6 Fuel System Stuff
N198G Reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Airflow Performance (AFP) fuel hose routing |
Jordan,
Typically that hose runs straight down from the flow divider to the injector
servo and has a 90-degree bend on the bottom end. Will your setup not
permit a straight-down run between #1 & #3?
If the hose you have doesn't work and you need a custom hose, I highly
recommend PHT (Precision Hose Technology). http://www.aircrafthose.com The
best prices (at least as far as I could find), and very helpful folks.
I've got some notes on installing an AFP FM-200 on my horizontal induction
IO-360-A1B6 here: http://www.rvproject.com/20030728.html I presume you've
got vertical induction, so this may or may not be helpful.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jordan Grant" <gra9933(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RV-List: Airflow Performance (AFP) fuel hose routing
>
> Listers:
> I am working on the fuel system for my Airflow Performance Fuel
> Injection. My XP-360 came from Aerosport power with the "distribution"
> manifold already mounted on the top of the engine. It has a fuel hose
coming
> out of the bottom of it and routed down between the two cylinders on the
> right side of the engine. My question is:
>
> How should I route this hose to get to the AFP throttle body?
>
> Right now, my best theory is to take it aft immediately under the
> cylinders - this puts it in-between the cylinders and the intake manifold
> pipes. Then route it over the bracket that mounts the mixture control and
> into the fitting on the throttle body. My only concern is that this makes
> some relatively sharp bends in the hose. I don't 'think' that there are
any
> kinks in the hose this way, but its a pretty important hose so I thought
I'd
> ask to see what others have done in case there is a better way.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Jordan Grant
> RV-6 Fuel System Stuff
> N198G Reserved
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jordan Grant" <gra9933(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Airflow Performance (AFP) fuel hose routing |
Dan,
Thanks for the reply. My installation does have the vertical induction.
The
outlet fitting is on the aft side of the throttle body, pointed upwards. The
engine came with the hose routed straight down between #1 and #3 - but I
can't hook it up to the throttle body by going straight down unless I kind
of go under the throttle cable linkage, around the throttle cable arms, and
then put a mighty twist in the hose to get it to hook up to the outlet
fitting. The OTHER problem with this is the hose is pressed up against one
of the exhaust pipes. It is firesleeved - but it didn't seem prudent to push
my luck by pressing this hose against such a hot part of the engine. I saw
your pictures, and it seemed like a different problem for you since the
outlet fitting was on the side of the induction, not the back.
Oh yeah - I could rotate the throttle body 180 degrees and put the outlet
in front, but then my control arm throws would both be backwards.
Thanks for your help,
Jordan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
Subject: Re: RV-List: Airflow Performance (AFP) fuel hose routing
Jordan,
Typically that hose runs straight down from the flow divider to the injector
servo and has a 90-degree bend on the bottom end. Will your setup not
permit a straight-down run between #1 & #3?
If the hose you have doesn't work and you need a custom hose, I highly
recommend PHT (Precision Hose Technology). http://www.aircrafthose.com The
best prices (at least as far as I could find), and very helpful folks.
I've got some notes on installing an AFP FM-200 on my horizontal induction
IO-360-A1B6 here: http://www.rvproject.com/20030728.html I presume you've
got vertical induction, so this may or may not be helpful.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jordan Grant" <gra9933(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RV-List: Airflow Performance (AFP) fuel hose routing
>
> Listers:
> I am working on the fuel system for my Airflow Performance Fuel
> Injection. My XP-360 came from Aerosport power with the "distribution"
> manifold already mounted on the top of the engine. It has a fuel hose
coming
> out of the bottom of it and routed down between the two cylinders on the
> right side of the engine. My question is:
>
> How should I route this hose to get to the AFP throttle body?
>
> Right now, my best theory is to take it aft immediately under the
> cylinders - this puts it in-between the cylinders and the intake manifold
> pipes. Then route it over the bracket that mounts the mixture control and
> into the fitting on the throttle body. My only concern is that this makes
> some relatively sharp bends in the hose. I don't 'think' that there are
any
> kinks in the hose this way, but its a pretty important hose so I thought
I'd
> ask to see what others have done in case there is a better way.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Jordan Grant
> RV-6 Fuel System Stuff
> N198G Reserved
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Knicholas2(at)aol.com |
I have recently been running the engine on my RV9A for the first time. I am
getting "low voltage" readings and seem to be getting only 11.5 volts and "low
Battery" messages on my micromonitor. I am using Vans 60 amp alternator with
build-in voltage regulator.
Any ideas?
Kim Nicholas
RV9A - FAA inspection this week!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Removing Cherry Rivets? |
| From: | "Bordelon, Greg" <gbordelon(at)hess.com> |
0.8 REMOVE_REMOVAL_NEAR List removal information
Guys, I am well versed in removing plain rivets. However, removing these Cherry
rivets with the steel inserts are very difficult. Any smart methods out there
on how to get these our with the least damage to the hole? The archive was not
fruitful.
Thanks - Greg
remove cherry rivet
remove pop rivet
remove blind rivet
please archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Smith" <dave(at)rv10project.net> |
| Subject: | Second hand tools |
Tim,
You might check ebay. I got a pretty good deal on a pneumatic squeezer up
there, and I'm guessing you'd be able to find several of the larger 'big
buck' items.
------------------------------------------
Dave Smith
http://www.rv10project.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Butterworth
Subject: RV-List: Second hand tools
-->
Hi, before I launch into a new build project (in the UK), can I ask if
anyone who has recently completed a kit would consider selling tools to help
me out. I would consider a set from the US if we can sort reasonable
shipping costs. A pneumatic riveter sounds a rather handy tool to start
with!!
Thanks
Tim
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
Do you know for a fact that the alternator has ever worked? Stated
differently ...
Did you **just** start the engine, using a fully charged battery and the
voltage thereafter showed 11.5 with no change?
Do you have anything that measures either the amperage out of the alternator
or into the battery?
Kim,
Do you have a good connection for the alternator "field" wire? When you
switch the alternator on (or is it always "switched" on?) do you see **ANY**
change in voltage?
Sorry to try to answer with so many questions but the answers may help find
the answer.
James
(Van's big alternator on RV6)
[SNIP]
> Subject: RV-List: low voltage
>
>
> I have recently been running the engine on my RV9A for the first
> time. I am
> getting "low voltage" readings and seem to be getting only 11.5
> volts and "low
> Battery" messages on my micromonitor. I am using Vans 60 amp
> alternator with
> build-in voltage regulator.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Kim Nicholas
> RV9A - FAA inspection this week!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Airflow Performance (AFP) fuel hose routing |
Jordan,
I would do your best to keep that hose run as short and straight as humanly
possible. That's metered fuel in there, and any length or complexity you
add to that run is going to have an effect on throttle & mixture response
(at least I assume it will). It will also increase the potential for vapor
lock. I wouldn't even think about twisting and curving that hose
(especially near exhaust) if you have an alternative. Straight up is best.
The AFP manual indicates that the servo can be mounted at any attitude or
angle. I would explore other mounting options if that's a possibility. You
might be able to mount it 90 degrees rotated from where you've currently got
it, and that will solve the hose problem. Of course that might cause other
control linkage challenges, but those are relatively easy to solve. In case
this is any consolation, I got my engine from Bart with the FM-200 installed
already, hose connected, etc. -- but I ended up having to rotate the servo
90 degrees to make things work.
Scott Bilinski has a very similar engine setup as you, I believe. AFP on a
vertical sump. I think he monitors this list...
Best of luck,
)_( Dan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jordan Grant" <gra9933(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Airflow Performance (AFP) fuel hose routing
>
> Dan,
> Thanks for the reply. My installation does have the vertical
induction. The
> outlet fitting is on the aft side of the throttle body, pointed upwards.
The
> engine came with the hose routed straight down between #1 and #3 - but I
> can't hook it up to the throttle body by going straight down unless I kind
> of go under the throttle cable linkage, around the throttle cable arms,
and
> then put a mighty twist in the hose to get it to hook up to the outlet
> fitting. The OTHER problem with this is the hose is pressed up against one
> of the exhaust pipes. It is firesleeved - but it didn't seem prudent to
push
> my luck by pressing this hose against such a hot part of the engine. I saw
> your pictures, and it seemed like a different problem for you since the
> outlet fitting was on the side of the induction, not the back.
> Oh yeah - I could rotate the throttle body 180 degrees and put the
outlet
> in front, but then my control arm throws would both be backwards.
>
> Thanks for your help,
> Jordan
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Airflow Performance (AFP) fuel hose routing
>
>
> Jordan,
>
> Typically that hose runs straight down from the flow divider to the
injector
> servo and has a 90-degree bend on the bottom end. Will your setup not
> permit a straight-down run between #1 & #3?
>
> If the hose you have doesn't work and you need a custom hose, I highly
> recommend PHT (Precision Hose Technology). http://www.aircrafthose.com
The
> best prices (at least as far as I could find), and very helpful folks.
>
> I've got some notes on installing an AFP FM-200 on my horizontal induction
> IO-360-A1B6 here: http://www.rvproject.com/20030728.html I presume
you've
> got vertical induction, so this may or may not be helpful.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jordan Grant" <gra9933(at)bellsouth.net>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Airflow Performance (AFP) fuel hose routing
>
>
> >
> > Listers:
> > I am working on the fuel system for my Airflow Performance Fuel
> > Injection. My XP-360 came from Aerosport power with the "distribution"
> > manifold already mounted on the top of the engine. It has a fuel hose
> coming
> > out of the bottom of it and routed down between the two cylinders on the
> > right side of the engine. My question is:
> >
> > How should I route this hose to get to the AFP throttle body?
> >
> > Right now, my best theory is to take it aft immediately under the
> > cylinders - this puts it in-between the cylinders and the intake
manifold
> > pipes. Then route it over the bracket that mounts the mixture control
and
> > into the fitting on the throttle body. My only concern is that this
makes
> > some relatively sharp bends in the hose. I don't 'think' that there are
> any
> > kinks in the hose this way, but its a pretty important hose so I thought
> I'd
> > ask to see what others have done in case there is a better way.
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> > Jordan Grant
> > RV-6 Fuel System Stuff
> > N198G Reserved
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Removing Cherry Rivets? |
Hi Greg,
There are basically two or three ways to remove a cherry rivet. It depends
on the type of cherry rivet and the material they are made of (yes Virginia,
there are MANY different types of "Cherry" rivets). In almost all cases,
the pin is some variant of steel, and if you simply try to drill it without
removing the center pin, you'll make a mess.
Method #1: For button or countersink head soft metal cherry rivets.
With a backing of some sort, try to drive out the pin from the front, then
drill off the head VERY carefully. May have to be done at a slight angle to
keep the rivet from spinning...then remove like a normal rivet.
Method #2: For button head hard metal rivets.
Drive out the pin as described above if possible. Some cherry type rivets
have captive pins and that's not possible, so the only alternative is to
grind off the head with either a sanding type disc/barrel, or a pointed
rasp/stone on a dremel. Be VERY carfull with doing this, and don't grind off
all of the head. Basically you should leave a few thousands of material
before you get to the base metal that was riveted. Then you should be able
to punch the rivet out.
Method #3: One of the best removal methods if access to the back side of
the rivet (not usually possible, hence the use of a "blind rivet")....but,
you can cut/snip/grind the back of the rivet off and drive it out from the
back.
Hope this helps......
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
http://www.steinair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bordelon, Greg
Subject: RV-List: Removing Cherry Rivets?
Guys, I am well versed in removing plain rivets. However, removing these
Cherry rivets with the steel inserts are very difficult. Any smart methods
out there on how to get these our with the least damage to the hole? The
archive was not fruitful.
Thanks - Greg
remove cherry rivet
remove pop rivet
remove blind rivet
please archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net (Chris Brooks) |
| Subject: | Re: Removing Cherry Rivets |
I took a straight rivet gun set and modified it to have a small pin on
the end. I rough cut it with a hack saw and then chucked it in a drill
and spun it while holding against a belt sander to shape it. The pin is
slightly less in diameter than the rivet mandrel and about 1/4" long. It
only took about 30 minutes to make. I expected the pin to break on the
first try, but I've used it about a dozen times and it's holding up
fine. It will drive the mandrel on a Cherry-Max as soon as you pull the
trigger. Then you just drill the rivet head and snap it off as usual.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
Knicholas2(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>I have recently been running the engine on my RV9A for the first time. I am
>getting "low voltage" readings and seem to be getting only 11.5 volts and "low
>Battery" messages on my micromonitor. I am using Vans 60 amp alternator with
>build-in voltage regulator.
>
>Any ideas?
>
>Kim Nicholas
>RV9A - FAA inspection this week!
>
Go to http://www.aeroelectric.com/ and check out their troubleshooting
guides. If you don't find what you need, email Bob. I suspect a
regulator or wiring problem. For all the mistery, charging systems are
pretty dirt simple.
Linn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Second hand tools |
try these guys: www.clearairtools.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Smith" <dave(at)rv10project.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Second hand tools
Tim,
You might check ebay. I got a pretty good deal on a pneumatic squeezer up
there, and I'm guessing you'd be able to find several of the larger 'big
buck' items.
------------------------------------------
Dave Smith
http://www.rv10project.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Butterworth
Subject: RV-List: Second hand tools
-->
Hi, before I launch into a new build project (in the UK), can I ask if
anyone who has recently completed a kit would consider selling tools to help
me out. I would consider a set from the US if we can sort reasonable
shipping costs. A pneumatic riveter sounds a rather handy tool to start
with!!
Thanks
Tim
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Birkelbach" <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Airflow Performance (AFP) fuel hose routing |
I have a similar setup. My hose goes down between the two cylinders, is
clamped to the bottom of the intake tube and then goes right under the
control cable to the servo. I had to trim the AFP mounting bracket to get
it to go. It was painfull cutting into that beautiful anodized part but it
worked okay.
http://www.myrv7.com/viewimage.php?pictureid=541
http://www.myrv7.com/viewimage.php?pictureid=533
Yes that control cable bracket is flimsy. :-) I promise I'll fix it.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Panel
http://www.myrv7.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jordan Grant" <gra9933(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RV-List: Airflow Performance (AFP) fuel hose routing
>
> Listers:
> I am working on the fuel system for my Airflow Performance Fuel
> Injection. My XP-360 came from Aerosport power with the "distribution"
> manifold already mounted on the top of the engine. It has a fuel hose
coming
> out of the bottom of it and routed down between the two cylinders on the
> right side of the engine. My question is:
>
> How should I route this hose to get to the AFP throttle body?
>
> Right now, my best theory is to take it aft immediately under the
> cylinders - this puts it in-between the cylinders and the intake manifold
> pipes. Then route it over the bracket that mounts the mixture control and
> into the fitting on the throttle body. My only concern is that this makes
> some relatively sharp bends in the hose. I don't 'think' that there are
any
> kinks in the hose this way, but its a pretty important hose so I thought
I'd
> ask to see what others have done in case there is a better way.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Jordan Grant
> RV-6 Fuel System Stuff
> N198G Reserved
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Boone Annual RV Day |
| From: | tacaruth(at)ralcorp.com |
06/07/2004 10:40:49 AM
Times???
"Ralph Koger"
Sent by: To
owner-rv-list-ser
ver(at)matronics.com cc
Subject
06/05/2004 05:11 Re: RV-List: Boone Annual RV Day
PM
Please respond to
rv-list@matronics
.com
Sorry about not giving complete information about location of Boone, IA RV
day. Airport indemnification is BNW. Also, forgot to say that there is a
swap for cash or trade items. If you come you can buy a Koger SunShade at
wholesale price. Thank you for bringing this to my attention.
>
> >
> > Join us Saturday June 12th for the "ANNUAL BOONE RV DAY"
> >
> > See completed RVs and the many projects in process.
> > RV-6; three RV-7s; RV-8 and two RV-10s.
> >
> > Planned presentations on many RV related topics.
> >
> > Planning for the interior by DJ Lauritsen
> > Wireing Aircraft systems.
> > First Flight/transition by Stu VanDyke
> > Getting the most from your GPS by Chuck Genz
> > Doing a thorough annual by Dave Kuykendal
> >
> > Of course the usual coffee & donuts and noon-catered lunch of BBQ Pork
Sandwiches.
> >
> > For more information Ralph Koger rhkoger(at)fbx.com
If you are not the intended addressee indicated in this message (or
responsible for delivery of the message to such person), you may not copy
message and kindly notify the sender by reply email. Please advise
immediately if you or your employer do not consent to internet email for
messages of this kind.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Boone Annual RV Day |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Here's the link with all the info available.
http://www.cleavelandtool.com/rvday.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
tacaruth(at)ralcorp.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Boone Annual RV Day
Times???
"Ralph Koger"
Sent by:
To
owner-rv-list-ser
ver(at)matronics.com
cc
Subject
06/05/2004 05:11 Re: RV-List: Boone Annual RV Day
PM
Please respond to
rv-list@matronics
.com
Sorry about not giving complete information about location of Boone, IA
RV day. Airport indemnification is BNW. Also, forgot to say that there
is a swap for cash or trade items. If you come you can buy a Koger
SunShade at wholesale price. Thank you for bringing this to my
attention.
>
> >
> > Join us Saturday June 12th for the "ANNUAL BOONE RV DAY"
> >
> > See completed RVs and the many projects in process.
> > RV-6; three RV-7s; RV-8 and two RV-10s.
> >
> > Planned presentations on many RV related topics.
> >
> > Planning for the interior by DJ Lauritsen
> > Wireing Aircraft systems.
> > First Flight/transition by Stu VanDyke
> > Getting the most from your GPS by Chuck Genz
> > Doing a thorough annual by Dave Kuykendal
> >
> > Of course the usual coffee & donuts and noon-catered lunch of BBQ
> > Pork
Sandwiches.
> >
> > For more information Ralph Koger rhkoger(at)fbx.com
If you are not the intended addressee indicated in this message (or
responsible for delivery of the message to such person), you may not
copy message and kindly notify the sender by reply email. Please advise
immediately if you or your employer do not consent to internet email for
messages of this kind.
=
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Cours <rv-j(at)moriarti.org> |
| Subject: | Re: A question of size |
> A general question if I can please. I am on the verge of starting an
> RV9 build project from the standard kit. My big reservation is that I
> only have a single garage measuring 18.5 feet x 7.5 feet. Given that
> the finished fuselage length is 20.5, is it wishful thinking that I
> can complete the task in such a small place?
I'm still very early in the construction of my RV, so this advice may
not be worth a whole lot :-) , but my experience working on other
projects has been that solutions present themselves once you get started.
For example, I've seen pictures of builders who've built temporary
extensions to their garages using PVC pipe and plastic sheeting to get a
few extra feet for the time they're working on the long stuff. Or, in
the process of building, you might meet someone who's willing to loan
you some hangar space. Or, here in the States, there are self storage
places that will rent space, some of which is garage-sized. There's even
a builder in the local EAA chapter who was living in Taiwan when he
started his Kitfox. He began building the wing in his back yard. It was
so long that he got permission from the neighbors -- on both sides -- to
let it overhang their yards while he worked on it.
In my own shop, to make the best use of limited space, most of the tools
are on wheels or castors. Also, the work table is modular and has
removable legs, to make it easy to reconfigure as the project
progresses. The work "bench", with the grinder and vice, is really a
rolling tool cart based on one of the Bingelis designs. And, this past
weekend, after trying to prime one too many times in gusty winds, I
started on a small, collapsible spray booth -- more of a fume hood,
really -- that'll let me prime smaller parts in the garage instead of
the windy driveway, but will store out of the way when it's not in use.
Given that you need only a few extra feet, and only during part of the
project, it certainly seems possible.
Good luck!
Jeff C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | UtilityOfRemovingForwardBaggageFloor |
Has anyone found it useful to remove the forward baggage floor and well panels
after construction? I'm thinking of using them to support adel clamps for wiring
and control cable runs which will make them harder to remove and obstruct
the opening somewhat when removed.
Dave Reel - RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: UtilityOfRemovingForwardBaggageFloor |
I've got my ELT under there - I've seen them used for oil storage (with associated
doors etc).
-----Original Message-----
From: DAVID REEL <dreel(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV-List: UtilityOfRemovingForwardBaggageFloor
Has anyone found it useful to remove the forward baggage floor and well panels
after construction? I'm thinking of using them to support adel clamps for wiring
and control cable runs which will make them harder to remove and obstruct
the opening somewhat when removed.
Dave Reel - RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jordan Grant" <gra9933(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Airflow Performance (AFP) fuel hose routing |
Yup, I think mine is almost exactly the same. The only difference is I
routed my hose over the control cable instead of under it. Michael Robbins
is going to send me a picture of his RV-8 setup, so we'll see if this is the
standard. I also E-mailed Aerosport Power, so if they tell me something
similar, I'll post that for the archives.
Jordan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Phil Birkelbach
Subject: Re: RV-List: Airflow Performance (AFP) fuel hose routing
I have a similar setup. My hose goes down between the two cylinders, is
clamped to the bottom of the intake tube and then goes right under the
control cable to the servo. I had to trim the AFP mounting bracket to get
it to go. It was painfull cutting into that beautiful anodized part but it
worked okay.
http://www.myrv7.com/viewimage.php?pictureid=541
http://www.myrv7.com/viewimage.php?pictureid=533
Yes that control cable bracket is flimsy. :-) I promise I'll fix it.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Panel
http://www.myrv7.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jordan Grant" <gra9933(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RV-List: Airflow Performance (AFP) fuel hose routing
>
> Listers:
> I am working on the fuel system for my Airflow Performance Fuel
> Injection. My XP-360 came from Aerosport power with the "distribution"
> manifold already mounted on the top of the engine. It has a fuel hose
coming
> out of the bottom of it and routed down between the two cylinders on the
> right side of the engine. My question is:
>
> How should I route this hose to get to the AFP throttle body?
>
> Right now, my best theory is to take it aft immediately under the
> cylinders - this puts it in-between the cylinders and the intake manifold
> pipes. Then route it over the bracket that mounts the mixture control and
> into the fitting on the throttle body. My only concern is that this makes
> some relatively sharp bends in the hose. I don't 'think' that there are
any
> kinks in the hose this way, but its a pretty important hose so I thought
I'd
> ask to see what others have done in case there is a better way.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Jordan Grant
> RV-6 Fuel System Stuff
> N198G Reserved
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | UtilityOfRemovingForwardBaggageFloor |
David,
I cut maybe the forward 8" or so off the panel that separates the rudder
pedals from the lower part of the baggage compartment for the reasons you
noted. My fuse blocks, second battery, and cross-feed and 2nd battery
contactor are in the bottom of the forward baggage well. I will still screw
it in place with the nutplates, but I don't expect to ever remove it, since
it will have wires running through it. I used a pair of stiffener angles
back to back each side of the seam with nutplates in it to make the now two
panels back into one, and give me a place to unfasten the removable part.
Terry
RV-8A #80729
Wiring
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of DAVID REEL
Subject: RV-List: UtilityOfRemovingForwardBaggageFloor
Has anyone found it useful to remove the forward baggage floor and well
panels after construction? I'm thinking of using them to support adel
clamps for wiring and control cable runs which will make them harder to
remove and obstruct the opening somewhat when removed.
Dave Reel - RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Speaking of Beautiful fixed pitched Props... |
| From: | "Rabaut, Chuck" <Chuck.Rabaut(at)fresnosheriff.org> |
"rv4-list(at)matronics. com \(E-mail\)" ,
"rv6-list(at)matronics. com \(E-mail\)" ,
"rv7-list(at)matronics. com \(E-mail\)" ,
"rv8-list(at)matronics. com \(E-mail\)" ,
"rv-list(at)matronics. com \(E-mail\)"
2.6 SUSPICIOUS_RECIPS Similar addresses in recipient list
Hi guys & Gals,
I just received my new Prop from "CloudCars". It looks BEAUTIFUL. This
prop reminds me of the high quality & low price we use to get from Pacesetter
Props. Pacesetter is no longer in business but man did I love my old Pacesetter
prop. The guy who made my new prop is Jay Anderson. He is very knowledgeable
and willing to work with you to get a custom Prop that you will love.
His prices are extremely fair (I got mine for about $500.oo including s your
price may vary depending on what you want) and the delivery time was only about
6 weeks. For a custom made, quality Prop you can't beat that price with a
stick. You can contact Jay at cloudcars99(at)yahoo.com or (325) 356-2810. His
motto/slogan is "Quality Wood Propellers at Reasonable Prices". I'm a satisfied
customer.
**note: I get no discount, nor do I have any financial interest in this
business.** We experimental builders & flyers should support small businesses
that provide quality products & service at reasonable prices. That's why
I'm sharing this hot tip with all the RV folks. If you call him, tell 'em Chuck
says "Hi".
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
Made the first flight in my RV6 N89DD Saturday June 5th at Spicewood
Apt. (88R) west of Austin, TX. All went perfect and I now have my new RV
grin. Thanks for all of the help I have received from the list.
Dick Dial
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Serge Boucher" <serge.boucher4(at)sympatico.ca> |
Congrats on a job well done including the first flight.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of J. R. Dial
Subject: RV-List: N89DD 1st flt.
Made the first flight in my RV6 N89DD Saturday June 5th at Spicewood
Apt. (88R) west of Austin, TX. All went perfect and I now have my new RV
grin. Thanks for all of the help I have received from the list.
Dick Dial
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Utility Of Removing Forward Baggage Floor |
Dave,
Yes, you will need to remove the floor occasionally. Any work on the brake master
cylinders, fittings, hoses or electric fuel pump & filter will be much easier
with the floor removed. I made small spacer blocks to fit between the baggage
compartment rear wall as well as the floor. These spacer blocks are countersunk.
They stand the Adel clamps off the surfaces and allow the use of flush screws
(so that you don't have "pan" style screw heads sticking out on the baggage
compartment wall and floor) I have having hardware that snags on stowed items.
I can remove the Adel clamps from the removable parts quite quickly. I can
send you photos off list if you like.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8A wiring
PS Is the space bar broken on your keyboard?? :-)
>
>Has anyone found it useful to remove the forward baggage floor and well panels
after construction? I'm thinking of using them to support adel clamps for wiring
and control cable runs which will make them harder to remove and obstruct
the opening somewhat when removed.
>
>Dave Reel - RV8A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | A question of size |
| From: | "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" <F.vanderHulst(at)ucol.ac.nz> |
The RV-6 fuselage jig is 14' long by 4' wide. If necessary, the firewall
end could be placed against a wall, but I think that would be
inconvenient. So you need a space about 20' long by 8' wide (plus
workbench, storage, etc.) to build your fuselage.
So, the short answer is that you couldn't complete the project in the
space you've got.
The long answer is that with a bit of extra work or money, it will be
possible. Your single garage will be big enough to build the empennage
and wings. The fuselage is a long way down the track... who knows where
you will be in 3 years time? If you're short of money, I've seen
builders with plastic tents extending their garages, and so on. If
you've got money to spare, rent hangar space a bit earlier.
Have a look at
http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/bunnys-guide/rv/bunny/hs_vs.htm,
http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/bunnys-guide/rv/bunny/wingskin.htm and
http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/bunnys-guide/rv/bunny/bulkhead.htm
Frank
> A general question if I can please. I am on the verge of starting an
> RV9 build project from the standard kit. My big reservation is that I
> only have a single garage measuring 18.5 feet x 7.5 feet. Given that
> the finished fuselage length is 20.5, is it wishful thinking that I
> can complete the task in such a small place?
Learn real skills for the real world - Apply online
at http://www.ucol.ac.nz or call 0800 GO UCOL
(0800 46 8265) or txt free 3388 for more information
and make a good move to UCOL Universal College of
Learning.
Enrol with a public institute and be certain of your
future
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | UtilityOfRemovingForwardBaggageFloor |
Dave,
We extended our forward baggage floor when we removed the drop down section.
I would think this wouldn't be to hard to do after the fact. But you will
have to have a two peice floor. It's nice ot have the extra room. I would
not remove the entire forward baggage floor - there are times (like when the
rear baggage comp is full - that you'll appreciate the space plus need the
CG weight.
Good BUilding,
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "rvlist"
>Subject: RV-List: UtilityOfRemovingForwardBaggageFloor
>Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 16:23:46 -0400 3.8 TRACKER_ID
>
>
>Has anyone found it useful to remove the forward baggage floor and well
>panels after construction? I'm thinking of using them to support adel
>clamps for wiring and control cable runs which will make them harder to
>remove and obstruct the opening somewhat when removed.
>
>Dave Reel - RV8A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Removing Cherry Rivets? |
I carefully grind off the retaining ring (or whatever it is) in the middle of the
rivet head, then punch out the pin, then drill and snap off just like a regular
rivet.
Forgive my use of non-standard language, I'm so used to explaining things to my
wife now that I don't know if I even remember the proper terms!
"Bordelon, Greg" wrote:
Guys, I am well versed in removing plain rivets. However, removing these Cherry
rivets with the steel inserts are very difficult. Any smart methods out there
on how to get these our with the least damage to the hole? The archive was not
fruitful.
Thanks - Greg
remove cherry rivet
remove pop rivet
remove blind rivet
please archive
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Travis Hamblen" <TravisHamblen(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Prop question... |
I just got my prop back from servicing. It is a wood prop and I just had it
refinished and the tips custom painted by a very reputable prop shop.
Mostly just for aesthetics, and they sure did a great job! Anyway, my
question is about reinstalling, just wanted to make sure I didnt miss
anything critical. After replacing the prop and bolts I torqued the bolts
to the manufacturers specs and re-safety wired the bolts as needed. I did
a run-up and tried all RPM ranges from 900 to 2300 (normal static maximum
RPM). There was no unusual vibration or anything else unusual noted. I
have heard that it is a good practice to measure from the prop tip to a
central location and to do it on both tips to make sure the prop is centered
or symmetrical. Is it better to measure this distance from the ground to
the tip with the prop in a vertical position or from the tip of the spinner
to the tips on both sides? Any advice is GREATLY appreciated, just want to
make sure I didnt forget anything (I had a weird feeling I was forgetting
something). Anyone with experience or info to pass on please speak-up, I am
not to proud to take free advice!
Thanks in advance
Travis Hamblen
N457DH RV6A @ VGT 342 hours!
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop question... |
How about rechecking to bolt torque after running the engine?
Jeff Point
RV-6 55 hours
Milwaukee WI
Travis Hamblen wrote:
>
>I just got my prop back from servicing. It is a wood prop and I just had it
>refinished and the tips custom painted by a very reputable prop shop.
>Mostly just for aesthetics, and they sure did a great job! Anyway, my
>question is about reinstalling, just wanted to make sure I didnt miss
>anything critical. After replacing the prop and bolts I torqued the bolts
>to the manufacturers specs and re-safety wired the bolts as needed. I did
>a run-up and tried all RPM ranges from 900 to 2300 (normal static maximum
>RPM). There was no unusual vibration or anything else unusual noted. I
>have heard that it is a good practice to measure from the prop tip to a
>central location and to do it on both tips to make sure the prop is centered
>or symmetrical. Is it better to measure this distance from the ground to
>the tip with the prop in a vertical position or from the tip of the spinner
>to the tips on both sides? Any advice is GREATLY appreciated, just want to
>make sure I didnt forget anything (I had a weird feeling I was forgetting
>something). Anyone with experience or info to pass on please speak-up, I am
>not to proud to take free advice!
>
>Thanks in advance
>Travis Hamblen
>N457DH RV6A @ VGT 342 hours!
>
>---
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop question... |
Hello Travis,
To check for prop diameter and run out you could use something such as a
step ladder, a short piece of stiff wire and some Vice-Grips. Stand the
ladder close to but just far enough away from the prop to avoid accidental
contact. Clamp the wire to the ladder or what have you so that it just
clears the blade tips Rotate each prop blade to the wire and measure, it
will turn easier with the top plugs removed (less chance of moving the
airframe)
Jim in Kelowna The wiring is done and tested, No Smoke devils escaped :-)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Travis Hamblen" <TravisHamblen(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV-List: Prop question...
>
> I just got my prop back from servicing. It is a wood prop and I just had
it
> refinished and the tips custom painted by a very reputable prop shop.
> Mostly just for aesthetics, and they sure did a great job! Anyway, my
> question is about reinstalling, just wanted to make sure I didnt miss
> anything critical. After replacing the prop and bolts I torqued the bolts
> to the manufacturers specs and re-safety wired the bolts as needed. I did
> a run-up and tried all RPM ranges from 900 to 2300 (normal static maximum
> RPM). There was no unusual vibration or anything else unusual noted. I
> have heard that it is a good practice to measure from the prop tip to a
> central location and to do it on both tips to make sure the prop is
centered
> or symmetrical. Is it better to measure this distance from the ground to
> the tip with the prop in a vertical position or from the tip of the
spinner
> to the tips on both sides? Any advice is GREATLY appreciated, just want
to
> make sure I didnt forget anything (I had a weird feeling I was forgetting
> something). Anyone with experience or info to pass on please speak-up, I
am
> not to proud to take free advice!
>
> Thanks in advance
> Travis Hamblen
> N457DH RV6A @ VGT 342 hours!
>
> ---
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "qcbccgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop question... |
I think what you are really talking about is "track" The tips of the blades
want to be in the same plane; no wobble. To check this, remove a plug from
each cylinder so the prop is easy to rotate. Then use a chair or some other
item as fixed point. Check to see if the tips are the same location when you
rotate them. That they miss your fixed point by the same amount. They can be
as much as 1/8" difference from your fixed point. 1/16" is better. If the
tips don't follow each other (track) the prop will vibrate regardless of
balance.
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Travis Hamblen" <TravisHamblen(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV-List: Prop question...
>
> I just got my prop back from servicing. It is a wood prop and I just had
it
> refinished and the tips custom painted by a very reputable prop shop.
> Mostly just for aesthetics, and they sure did a great job! Anyway, my
> question is about reinstalling, just wanted to make sure I didnt miss
> anything critical. After replacing the prop and bolts I torqued the bolts
> to the manufacturers specs and re-safety wired the bolts as needed. I did
> a run-up and tried all RPM ranges from 900 to 2300 (normal static maximum
> RPM). There was no unusual vibration or anything else unusual noted. I
> have heard that it is a good practice to measure from the prop tip to a
> central location and to do it on both tips to make sure the prop is
centered
> or symmetrical. Is it better to measure this distance from the ground to
> the tip with the prop in a vertical position or from the tip of the
spinner
> to the tips on both sides? Any advice is GREATLY appreciated, just want
to
> make sure I didnt forget anything (I had a weird feeling I was forgetting
> something). Anyone with experience or info to pass on please speak-up, I
am
> not to proud to take free advice!
>
> Thanks in advance
> Travis Hamblen
> N457DH RV6A @ VGT 342 hours!
>
> ---
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob 1" <rv3a(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop question... |
The way I check TRACKING is to use a reference point off the aircraft
itself. That way I don't need to pull spark plugs or anything or worry about
the chair or whatever moving to screw up my fixed reference point. In the
case of my slider canopy RV-3, I use a steel measuring tape from the
backside of the windshield to the prop tip. Start with the prop vertical.
Rotate 180 degrees and do again. Very simple, accurate and done in minutes.
Worked well on my old Ercoupe, too. YMMV... if you have a tip up canopy.
Bob - RV-3
=====================================
>
> I think what you are really talking about is "track" The tips of the
blades
> want to be in the same plane; no wobble. To check this, remove a plug from
> each cylinder so the prop is easy to rotate. Then use a chair or some
other
> item as fixed point. Check to see if the tips are the same location when
you
> rotate them. That they miss your fixed point by the same amount. They can
be
> as much as 1/8" difference from your fixed point. 1/16" is better. If the
> tips don't follow each other (track) the prop will vibrate regardless of
> balance.
>
> Cy Galley -
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Dick,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "J. R. Dial" <jrdial@hal-pc.org>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "RV-List"
>Subject: RV-List: N89DD 1st flt.
>Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 18:00:50 -0500
>
>
>Made the first flight in my RV6 N89DD Saturday June 5th at Spicewood
>Apt. (88R) west of Austin, TX. All went perfect and I now have my new RV
>grin. Thanks for all of the help I have received from the list.
> Dick Dial
>
>
Watch the online reality show Mixed Messages with a friend and enter to win
a trip to NY
http://www.msnmessenger-download.click-url.com/go/onm00200497ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)excelgeo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Grommets for fuel lines |
On the old super slow build kits I open up the hole in the skin to 1"
and install the grommet in the 6101 (7101 in your case). This skin is
thinner and easier to work on since it is on the outside. I could never
imagine installing two grommets here. I would shy away from a bulkhead
fitting as it introduces two more failure points.
Gary
Dan Checkoway wrote:
>
> Don't use two grommets. Open up the hole in the 7101 (or whatever it is)
> plate large enough so that the fuel line couldn't possibly touch. Then just
> use a single grommet in the hole in the skin.
>
> Just my 2 cents,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Richard Suffoletto" <rsuffoletto(at)hotmail.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Grommets for fuel lines
>
>
>
>
>
>
>>
>>The plans show two grommets per side where the fuel line exits the side of
>
> the fuselage on a 7A, . I simply cannot get two grommets to fit, one from
> the inside and one from the outside. The small space between the fuselage
> skins in this area is not wide enough for two grommets.
>
>>
>>What am I missing or doing wrong?
>>
>>
>>Thanks
>>
>>
>>Richard
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)excelgeo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Location of Fuel Flow Transducer |
Interesting topic here. I installed my transducer between the mechanical
pump and the carb. My reasoning was; that's where the manufacturer of my
fuel flow wanted it and I also thought that the pulsing from the
mechanical pump would negate all the problems associated with running
the boost pump. Well, guess what, my fuel flow still goes up with the
boost pump on. I only use my boost pump for takeoff and landings, a
small percentage of flying time so it is not an issue. My totalizer is
consistently less than 1% different than actual used.
IMHO the dampener is not warranted. It adds WEIGHT and more complexity
in a simple system.
Gary
Bill VonDane wrote:
>
> I installed mine in the same place, but haven't flown it enough to know how
> well it works... I did notice that when I turn on the boost pump it read
> about 1 gph higher... I ended up buying a pulsation dampener from Matt
> Dralle to install:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/fuelchec/dampener.html
>
> The instructions also say something bout using a flexible line to help with
> the pulses, so I may install the sphere right after the fuel pump and use a
> flex line from the dampener to the flow transducer... Anyone see any
> problems with this?
>
> -Bill VonDane
> EAA Tech Counselor
> RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
> www.vondane.com
> www.creativair.com
> www.epanelbuilder.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Location of Fuel Flow Transducer
>
>
>
> Pete,
>
> On my 6A, I put the transducer on side of the fuselage next to the
> rudder pedals between the electric fuel pump and the firewall. I have
> about 6 inches of straight tubing before the transducer and probably
> 8-10 inches after. The transducer is angled the same as the fuel pump.
> This set up is working well. My fuel flow reading is within .5 gal of
> actual consumed. I have it set on the conservative side (i.e. reading
> less fuel remaining than actual.) I am using the GRT EIS and am getting
> a non-steady fuel flow reading at all power settings. The fuel flow
> reading will slowly go up about 1 gal/hr and slowly back down and then
> up again. Since it reads 0.1 gal/hr, this fluctuation looks big but my
> end result fuel flow error is not large Greg at GRT is recommending
> that I place a dampening tube before the transducer that I will probably
> do next winter. Right now, I am having to much fun flying to worry
> about this.
>
> Ross Mickey
> N9PT
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Subject: RV-List: Location of Fuel Flow Transducer
> posted by: PeterHunt1(at)aol.com
>
> I need a little help understanding where to place my fuel flow
> transducer.
> The manufacturer suggested suspending it somewhere in the flexible hose
> running
> between the engine fuel pump and carburetor, and at the same level as
> the
> carburetor. This is awkward in my situation (O-360-A1A) and would
> involve
> several additional fittings (and perhaps failure points). I would like
> to place my
> fuel flow transducer just after my electric fuel pump (inside the
> cockpit and
> before the gascolator). Is there an argument against doing this? Is
> there
> some pulsing issue? What have others done that has worked well? The
> manufacturer discourages fastening the fuel flow transducer outlet
> directly to the
> carburetor which is another option for me, but I can't get from them a
> reason why.
> What I want to understand is where to place my fuel flow transducer and,
> most
> specifically, why.
>
> Pete
> Clearwater, FL
> RV-6, completing engine instillation
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Philip Condon" <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | RV-List Digest: 37 propeler manufacturers listed in web link |
list format
http://www.dulfu.dk/linkdir/results.asp?view=Gruppe&Gruppe=18
List of prop propeller manufacturers and links (contact information) from
this web site. Good, single source list of most all propeller options
available to us builders.
http://www.dulfu.dk/linkdir/results.asp?view=Gruppe&Gruppe=18
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop question... |
Sounds like a great idea! Thinking outside the box (or stepladder).
On Jun 8, 2004, at 5:55 AM, Bob 1 wrote:
>
>
> The way I check TRACKING is to use a reference point off the aircraft
> itself. That way I don't need to pull spark plugs or anything or worry
> about
> the chair or whatever moving to screw up my fixed reference point. In
> the
> case of my slider canopy RV-3, I use a steel measuring tape from the
> backside of the windshield to the prop tip. Start with the prop
> vertical.
> Rotate 180 degrees and do again. Very simple, accurate and done in
> minutes.
> Worked well on my old Ercoupe, too. YMMV... if you have a tip up
> canopy.
>
> Bob - RV-3
> =====================================
>
>
>>
>> I think what you are really talking about is "track" The tips of the
> blades
>> want to be in the same plane; no wobble. To check this, remove a plug
>> from
>> each cylinder so the prop is easy to rotate. Then use a chair or some
> other
>> item as fixed point. Check to see if the tips are the same location
>> when
> you
>> rotate them. That they miss your fixed point by the same amount. They
>> can
> be
>> as much as 1/8" difference from your fixed point. 1/16" is better. If
>> the
>> tips don't follow each other (track) the prop will vibrate regardless
>> of
>> balance.
>>
>> Cy Galley -
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Philip Condon" <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | RV-List Digest: 37 propeller manufacturers list ( cut from web |
page and posted)
Webname
Description
Country
Group
AEROBAT, Spain
The wood which we used in Aerobat, is a type of
hard wood specially treated and cut for us, its
origin is of the French Normandia.
ES
Mfg of
Propellers
Air-Contact
German FITI-propellers for Ultralights.
DE
Mfg of
Propellers
Airmaster
4-cyl driven, max. 3300 rpm suitable for 912,
912S, 914, Jabiru 2200 & 3300 engines.
US
Mfg of
Propellers
Arplast -
ECOprop
Propellers
Des hlices pour laviation de loisir et des
pices en composite pour construction
amateur... Only in French
FR
Mfg of
Propellers
Arplast France
Manufacturer of high efficient propellers
FR
Mfg of
Propellers
Arrowprop Company
Arrowprop Company manufacturers wood and
composite Aircraft Propellers, Ultralight Aircraft
Propellers and Experimental Aircraft Propellers.
US
Mfg of
Propellers
AVTEK Propeller
Italian hydraulic adjustable propellers
IT
Mfg of
Propellers
Bolly Optima Series
Propellers
All BOS 2, 3 & 4 blades are sold as digital
weight matched component sets
AU
Mfg of
Propellers
Brolga Propellers
High performance Ultra-Prop blades are
available for larger, faster, higher horsepower
ultralight aircraft. The "Brolga" blades are
manufactured in Australia by Aerofibre
Industries Pty, Ltd
US
Mfg of
Propellers
Catto Propellers
Almost 1000 propellers have been made for
applications from a 1hp electric motor up to a
turbo charged 350hp IO-540
US
Mfg of
Propellers
Constant Speed Prop from
Quinti Avio
Using your tachometer and manifold pressure it
is possible to set any combination of RPM and
MAP you like. THIS IS THE STANDARD
CONTROLLER FOR ALL HUBS for Rotax 582,
912, 914, Jabiru and Subaru.
IT
Mfg of
Propellers
DUC Propellers
The manufacturing of DUC FC propellers
answers the strictest industry standards, including
the use of a unique production tool specially
built to ensure you the highest quality.
FR
Mfg of
Propellers
Edward Sterpa Aircraft
Propeller
Sterba Propellers are homebuilt and made of
Hard Maple, Northern Birch, and Cherry wood
laminated in our shop using Plastic Resin Glue.
Also many rules of thump and other information.
US
Mfg of
Propellers
Gemini Propeller Duplicator
Carve your own propeller. The Gemini Propeller
Duplicator is a machine that allows individuals
to easily and accurately carve wooden
propellers for experimental aircraft.
US
Mfg of
Propellers
GSC Systems
GSC Systems has been propelling the world
since 1984 and is one of the oldest and most
world-wide renowned propeller manufacturing
companies.
CA
Mfg of
Propellers
GT Propellers
GT PROPELLERS is the only company to have
produced the tail rotor and the mixed woods
and composites particular blade installed on the
L221, twin engine light and single bladed main
rotor helicopter.
IT
Mfg of
Propellers
HELIX
Die Firma HELIX Kunststofftechnik entwickelt
und produziert seit 1990 Propeller fr einen
breiten Anwendungsbereich.
DE
Mfg of
Propellers
Homebuilt Homepage -
Propellers
Many US manufatures and suppliers of
propellers listed
US
Mfg of
Propellers
IVOPROP
More than 20000 propellers sold. Propellers up
to 700 HP - Quick adjustable and in-flight
adjustable: Ultralight, Medium and Magnum
models.
US
Mfg of
Propellers
Kalmar-Aero
KA-1 is a propeller of the new series of the
propellers adjustable in flight for ULL.
CZ
Mfg of
Propellers
Kievprop
KievProp makes a range of 3 and 5 blade tractor
and pusher configuration composite propellers
ideal for use with ultralight and amateur built
aircraft.
UA
Mfg of
Propellers
Making a Composite Prop
This page describes a simple method of making
a two bladed composite propeller, by Jukka
Tervamaki.
FI
Mfg of
Propellers
mt-propeller
mt-Propeller is located directly at the Straubing
Airport (EDMS) in South Germany.
Development, Production, Sales and Service of
MT Variable and MT Fixed Pitch Propellers.
MT-Propeller was founded by Gerd Mhlbauer
in 1981, who started his career in the design of
propellers for general aviation and other
applications in 1968.
DE
Mfg of
Propellers
Neuform Propellers
NEUFORM Composite Propellers
DE
Mfg of
Propellers
Newton Propeller
Newton Propeller is a company with over 25
years of experience, supplying aircraft propellers
of the highest quality to customers across the
globe.
GB
Mfg of
Propellers
Powerfin Inc.
Powerfin Inc. offer the ultralight and small
experimental pilot the safest, most efficient,
highest quality carbon fiber composite
propellers.
US
Mfg of
Propellers
P-PROP
The P-Prop is renowned as a high quality wood
and composite propeller for homebuilt and
microlight aircraft. Each prop is hand crafted to
the most exacting standards and suited to your
performance needs.
ZA
Mfg of
Propellers
Precision Propellers
Precisions Propellers has serviced the aircraft
industry for over 22 years. Each blade is hand
crafted, balanced and finished now with
polyurethane (no more varnish) to the highest of
standards.
US
Mfg of
Propellers
PropLink - Variable Pitch
System for Experimental
Aircraft
With its all-mechanical variable pitch hub,
PropLink, LP is giving builders a new and
important variable pitch alternative.
US
Mfg of
Propellers
Rospeller
ROSPELLER is the manufacturer of a well
known ultralight and experimental aircraft
inflight 2- and 3-blade variable pitch propeller.
DE
Mfg of
Propellers
Russian Propellers
The props are designed by Russian professional
aerodynamic engineers and has excellent
operating characteristics
CA
Mfg of
Propellers
SEBESTAIR
Fixed-pitch propellers and variable-pitch
propellers
DE
Mfg of
Propellers
ULTRALIGHT AVIATION
PORTAL, Propellers
Great Spanish link to manufacturers of
propellers for ultralight aircrafts.
ES
Mfg of
Propellers
VZLU Propellers
At present VZL is manufacturing fixed
two-bladed, three bladed ground adjustable and
constantspeed propellers. All propellers are
certified in accordance with JAR-P and FAR 35
(approved by Civil Aviation Authority) or in
accordance with UL-2 (Light Aircraft
Association).
CZ
Mfg of
Propellers
Warp Drive Carbon Fiber
Composite Propellers
We are dealers for Warp Drive carbon fiber
propellers and offer factory-direct pricing to our
customers.
US
Mfg of
Propellers
Whirl Wind Propellers
Whirl Wind offers a complete line of composite
constant speed propellers for the most popular
kitplanes with engines like Rotax 912 and 914.
US
Mfg of
Propellers
WOODCOMP
Wooden propellers and the former SportsProp
propellers
CZ
Mfg of
Propellers
Total 37 links
Webname
Description
Country
Group
AEROBAT, Spain
The wood which we used in Aerobat, is a type of
hard wood specially treated and cut for us, its
origin is of the French Normandia.
ES
Mfg of
Propellers
Air-Contact
German FITI-propellers for Ultralights.
DE
Mfg of
Propellers
Airmaster
4-cyl driven, max. 3300 rpm suitable for 912,
912S, 914, Jabiru 2200 & 3300 engines.
US
Mfg of
Propellers
Arplast -
ECOprop
Propellers
Des hlices pour laviation de loisir et des
pices en composite pour construction
amateur... Only in French
FR
Mfg of
Propellers
Arplast France
Manufacturer of high efficient propellers
FR
Mfg of
Propellers
Arrowprop Company
Arrowprop Company manufacturers wood and
composite Aircraft Propellers, Ultralight Aircraft
Propellers and Experimental Aircraft Propellers.
US
Mfg of
Propellers
AVTEK Propeller
Italian hydraulic adjustable propellers
IT
Mfg of
Propellers
Bolly Optima Series
Propellers
All BOS 2, 3 & 4 blades are sold as digital
weight matched component sets
AU
Mfg of
Propellers
Brolga Propellers
High performance Ultra-Prop blades are
available for larger, faster, higher horsepower
ultralight aircraft. The "Brolga" blades are
manufactured in Australia by Aerofibre
Industries Pty, Ltd
US
Mfg of
Propellers
Catto Propellers
Almost 1000 propellers have been made for
applications from a 1hp electric motor up to a
turbo charged 350hp IO-540
US
Mfg of
Propellers
Constant Speed Prop from
Quinti Avio
Using your tachometer and manifold pressure it
is possible to set any combination of RPM and
MAP you like. THIS IS THE STANDARD
CONTROLLER FOR ALL HUBS for Rotax 582,
912, 914, Jabiru and Subaru.
IT
Mfg of
Propellers
DUC Propellers
The manufacturing of DUC FC propellers
answers the strictest industry standards, including
the use of a unique production tool specially
built to ensure you the highest quality.
FR
Mfg of
Propellers
Edward Sterpa Aircraft
Propeller
Sterba Propellers are homebuilt and made of
Hard Maple, Northern Birch, and Cherry wood
laminated in our shop using Plastic Resin Glue.
Also many rules of thump and other information.
US
Mfg of
Propellers
Gemini Propeller Duplicator
Carve your own propeller. The Gemini Propeller
Duplicator is a machine that allows individuals
to easily and accurately carve wooden
propellers for experimental aircraft.
US
Mfg of
Propellers
GSC Systems
GSC Systems has been propelling the world
since 1984 and is one of the oldest and most
world-wide renowned propeller manufacturing
companies.
CA
Mfg of
Propellers
GT Propellers
GT PROPELLERS is the only company to have
produced the tail rotor and the mixed woods
and composites particular blade installed on the
L221, twin engine light and single bladed main
rotor helicopter.
IT
Mfg of
Propellers
HELIX
Die Firma HELIX Kunststofftechnik entwickelt
und produziert seit 1990 Propeller fr einen
breiten Anwendungsbereich.
DE
Mfg of
Propellers
Homebuilt Homepage -
Propellers
Many US manufatures and suppliers of
propellers listed
US
Mfg of
Propellers
IVOPROP
More than 20000 propellers sold. Propellers up
to 700 HP - Quick adjustable and in-flight
adjustable: Ultralight, Medium and Magnum
models.
US
Mfg of
Propellers
Kalmar-Aero
KA-1 is a propeller of the new series of the
propellers adjustable in flight for ULL.
CZ
Mfg of
Propellers
Kievprop
KievProp makes a range of 3 and 5 blade tractor
and pusher configuration composite propellers
ideal for use with ultralight and amateur built
aircraft.
UA
Mfg of
Propellers
Making a Composite Prop
This page describes a simple method of making
a two bladed composite propeller, by Jukka
Tervamaki.
FI
Mfg of
Propellers
mt-propeller
mt-Propeller is located directly at the Straubing
Airport (EDMS) in South Germany.
Development, Production, Sales and Service of
MT Variable and MT Fixed Pitch Propellers.
MT-Propeller was founded by Gerd Mhlbauer
in 1981, who started his career in the design of
propellers for general aviation and other
applications in 1968.
DE
Mfg of
Propellers
Neuform Propellers
NEUFORM Composite Propellers
DE
Mfg of
Propellers
Newton Propeller
Newton Propeller is a company with over 25
years of experience, supplying aircraft propellers
of the highest quality to customers across the
globe.
GB
Mfg of
Propellers
Powerfin Inc.
Powerfin Inc. offer the ultralight and small
experimental pilot the safest, most efficient,
highest quality carbon fiber composite
propellers.
US
Mfg of
Propellers
P-PROP
The P-Prop is renowned as a high quality wood
and composite propeller for homebuilt and
microlight aircraft. Each prop is hand crafted to
the most exacting standards and suited to your
performance needs.
ZA
Mfg of
Propellers
Precision Propellers
Precisions Propellers has serviced the aircraft
industry for over 22 years. Each blade is hand
crafted, balanced and finished now with
polyurethane (no more varnish) to the highest of
standards.
US
Mfg of
Propellers
PropLink - Variable Pitch
System for Experimental
Aircraft
With its all-mechanical variable pitch hub,
PropLink, LP is giving builders a new and
important variable pitch alternative.
US
Mfg of
Propellers
Rospeller
ROSPELLER is the manufacturer of a well
known ultralight and experimental aircraft
inflight 2- and 3-blade variable pitch propeller.
DE
Mfg of
Propellers
Russian Propellers
The props are designed by Russian professional
aerodynamic engineers and has excellent
operating characteristics
CA
Mfg of
Propellers
SEBESTAIR
Fixed-pitch propellers and variable-pitch
propellers
DE
Mfg of
Propellers
ULTRALIGHT AVIATION
PORTAL, Propellers
Great Spanish link to manufacturers of
propellers for ultralight aircrafts.
ES
Mfg of
Propellers
VZLU Propellers
At present VZL is manufacturing fixed
two-bladed, three bladed ground adjustable and
constantspeed propellers. All propellers are
certified in accordance with JAR-P and FAR 35
(approved by Civil Aviation Authority) or in
accordance with UL-2 (Light Aircraft
Association).
CZ
Mfg of
Propellers
Warp Drive Carbon Fiber
Composite Propellers
We are dealers for Warp Drive carbon fiber
propellers and offer factory-direct pricing to our
customers.
US
Mfg of
Propellers
Whirl Wind Propellers
Whirl Wind offers a complete line of composite
constant speed propellers for the most popular
kitplanes with engines like Rotax 912 and 914.
US
Mfg of
Propellers
WOODCOMP
Wooden propellers and the former SportsProp
propellers
CZ
Mfg of
Propellers
Total 37 links
See prior post for URL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Alley <n320wt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EIS. QUESTION |
Also make sure you installed the resistor between the
EIS and mag P-lead!!!
====
BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
304-872-7938 shop
304-562-6800 home
How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jacklockamy(at)att.net |
Found a chart service that includes all VFR sectionals and IFR Enroute colored
charts and Approach Plates in spiral bound books at a very fair price.
Check out www.airchart.com
After years of using Jeppesen IFR charts and buying individual VFR sectionals when
needed for local/cross-country flight, this service appears to be a real bargain.
Also, no more folding/un-folding sectionals in our smaller cockpits.
ALL the charts are one binder!
I'm not associated with this service or company in any way. Just thought others
may find the service as valuable as I believe it to be.
Jack Lockamy
Camarillo, CA
-7A
Found a chart service that includes all VFR sectionals and IFR Enroute colored
charts and Approach Plates in spiral bound books at a very fair price.
Check out www.airchart.com
After years of using Jeppesen IFR charts and buying individual VFR sectionals when
needed for local/cross-country flight, this service appears to be a real bargain.
Also, no more folding/un-folding sectionals in our smaller cockpits. ALL
the charts are one binder!
I'm not associated with this service or company in any way. Just thought others
may find the service as valuable as I believe it to be.
Jack Lockamy
Camarillo, CA
-7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dwpetrus(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: EIS. QUESTION |
Give them a call at Grand Rapids. They have always been helpful to me.
Wayne Petrus
RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
I talked to Greg but I think you will find the tach settings on
page 20 of the instructions as they have several options. They are
helpful as I had some other problems that they took care of
expeditiously.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Dwpetrus(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: EIS. QUESTION
Give them a call at Grand Rapids. They have always been helpful to me.
Wayne Petrus
RV8A
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: UtilityOfRemovingForwardBaggageFloor |
I mounted an angle just below the floor, attached front and back to the
bulkheads. The adel clamps and etc. hang off of that making the floor
easily removable.
Jim Bean
RV-8
Getting close
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu> |
jacklockamy(at)att.net wrote:
> Check out www.airchart.com
>
> After years of using Jeppesen IFR charts and buying individual VFR sectionals
when needed for local/cross-country flight, this service appears to be a real
bargain. Also, no more folding/un-folding sectionals in our smaller cockpits.
ALL the charts are one binder!
I'm on my second year using their
VFR Atlas. Really nice having all the charts
for the entire east half of the US - I never have
to worry about not having the right chart, or
not being up to date. However, the rather large
spiral bound atlas is very difficult to
use in a small cockpit. I've stripped the
plastic spiral binder off, and punched regular
three-hole format holes and used three rings to
hold it together. That allows you to remove just
the pages you need and have them on your
kneepad, and the rest of the book in the back in case you need
them but don't have to fight with them all the time.
I've inquired with the company about
offering a three-hole format, but they are
not considering it at this time, unfortunately.
Still a great service, although annoying to have to
strip and punch my own holes to make it
useable in the plane.
-Dj
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
Look inside nearly any airshow airplane and you will see Howie Keefe's
aircharts. They are great for old eyes and small cockpits.
They come in both sectional 2 books for the country, and WACs 1 book for the
country. I flew on the WACs for the last several years, but my bifocals
mandated the change to the Sectional books this year. I use the IFR system
as well. Highly recommended.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
Ditto that! I've been using both for several years and will never go back
to individual sectionals or charts (IFR & VFR). Hopefully this good press
will give them some more coverage and more people will discover these. They
are really a nice addition. Unlike some people, I actually like the spiral
binding because I can just flip to the page I need and lay the whole book up
on the dash when it's not in my lap. Haven't yet purchased their
sectionals, I've been using the WAC version, but the sectionals will be my
next purchase!
Just my 2 cents.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Doug Rozendaal
Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Charts
Look inside nearly any airshow airplane and you will see Howie Keefe's
aircharts. They are great for old eyes and small cockpits.
They come in both sectional 2 books for the country, and WACs 1 book for the
country. I flew on the WACs for the last several years, but my bifocals
mandated the change to the Sectional books this year. I use the IFR system
as well. Highly recommended.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Garrett, Randy L (C4S)" <Randy.L.Garrett(at)gdc4s.com> |
Hi ...
I have a question about flying off gravel strips. I am planning to fly to Alaska
from Massachusetts in a few weeks in a Van's RV-6A. I'm assuming I should
remove the wheel pants. Should I also remove the gear leg fairings? I wanted
to get advice from people who fly there about the best tradeoff between operating
from gravel versus keeping the drag down with the fairings. I would only
be going to major public airports, not real back country strips, but still
places like Northway are gravel.
Second, any RV-ators along the Alaska Highway or in Fairbanks / Anchorage area
who would like a call or visit on the way?
Thanks!
Randy
N4031P
RV-6A 300 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bluecavu(at)aol.com |
Another happy customer...
5 years now using aircharts in my RV-4. The *only* way to go in a small RV
cockpit. I personally love the spiral bound format -easy to flip through and
lays on my left or right leg. Page numbering system makes finding the page you
need easy.
I was using the VFR Atlas (WAC charts) but have switched to the east and west
Sectional Atlases.
Several friends use the IFR system and are happy wih it -though it is much
more cumbersome -as it uses NOS plate books -but it's still one of the most
cost-effective systems going.
I have an (aluminum) 'pocket' I made against the fuse side behind the -404
bulkhead just for the purpose of putting a chart book when it's not out on my
leg. Very slick.
Scott
N4ZW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rver <rv61234(at)earthlink.net> |
Hi, I have an O320-D32B, 160 HP for sale. 2900 TT, 1300 SMOH, 800
since prop strike. New mags, harness, plugs. 1300 hrs on all other
accessories. Currently flying in a RV6. I also have a matching
Sensinech fixed pitch prop for the engine and RV6. Will sell for best
offer. Please email me with your serious inquires.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Johnny Johnson" <Johnny(at)wiktel.com> |
| Subject: | Looking for O-320 ring gear |
I want to find a 122-tooth large pulley ring gear for my O-320. Would
prefer to buy outright but will consider swapping my small pulley if you
have an O-320 and want your alternator to turn a little slower.
Reason: I want to install an MT electric prop and Im told that requires
the large pulley I would prefer to adapt the prop controls to my current
ring gear to save wear & tear on the alternator, but that apparently isnt
possible.
Thanks Johnny Johnson
RV-3A 49MM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted" <ted_french(at)telus.net> |
Randy
Leave them on. The worst gravel damage I suffered in my 6A was from taking
off on a gravel strip with no wheel pants. Rock almost punched a hole right
through the belly. As long as you have reasonable clearance between the
ground and the bottom of your pants you won't have a problem. Also if you
have to land on dirt or gravel and its wet, you won't believe how much mud
can collect on the bottom of the wing. I leave mine on all summer regardless
of gravel, grass or dirt. Just take them off for the winter...
Ted
Flying RV-6A C-FXCS 170 hrs around central British Columbia.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Garrett, Randy L
(C4S)
Subject: RV-List: RV's and gravel
Hi ...
I have a question about flying off gravel strips. I am planning to fly to
Alaska from Massachusetts in a few weeks in a Van's RV-6A. I'm assuming I
should remove the wheel pants. Should I also remove the gear leg fairings?
I wanted to get advice from people who fly there about the best tradeoff
between operating from gravel versus keeping the drag down with the
fairings. I would only be going to major public airports, not real back
country strips, but still places like Northway are gravel.
Second, any RV-ators along the Alaska Highway or in Fairbanks / Anchorage
area who would like a call or visit on the way?
Thanks!
Randy
N4031P
RV-6A 300 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Way back machine - not building related |
Care to take a walk throug yesteryear at Van's?
Take a look:
http://web.archive.org/web/19970601164123/www.vansaircraft.com/main.htm
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Way back machine - not building related |
| From: | "Rabaut, Chuck" <Chuck.Rabaut(at)fresnosheriff.org> |
Scott,
Thanks for the trip down memory lane. I still want an RV-3.
Chuck
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Scott
Vanartsdalen
Subject: RV-List: Way back machine - not building related
Care to take a walk throug yesteryear at Van's?
Take a look:
http://web.archive.org/web/19970601164123/www.vansaircraft.com/main.htm
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Way back machine - not building related |
>Care to take a walk throug yesteryear at Van's?
>
>Take a look:
>http://web.archive.org/web/19970601164123/www.vansaircraft.com/main.htm
>
>
>--
>Scott VanArtsdalen
>RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
>
Neat! I started my -8 in '97. Pics of Morgan and Benedict add a slightly
somber note....and N58RV...
Thanks for the memories!
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51 who'd a thunk of a four seat RV in '97!
Looking to buy a house? Get informed with the Home Buying Guide from MSN
House & Home. http://coldwellbanker.msn.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: N89DD 1st flt. |
Congrats Dick...!!!
Kurt in OKC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Price of RV4's |
>
> Hi All,
> Just received a Notice of Appraised Value from the Lubbock Central
Appraisal
> District for my unfinished RV4, still unassembled in the garage, for
> $295,000 dollars! Proposed tax estimate $5,536.55! Aircraft for private
use
> should be exempt from the tax here but the value is out of sight.
>
> Bruce Bell
> Lubbock, Texas
> RV4 # 2888
> N23BB
>
>
See, if the district would be willing to buy it for 1/2 their assessed
value{:>). More seriously, perhaps their decimal point slipped a bit. I
would think an argument could be made that a Kit is simple an assemblage of
parts, certainly not worth more than you paid for the pieces. Unless there
is a "Value Added" tax in Texas on kits, I would assert that until it
receives an airworthiness certificate from the FAA then it is technically
not an airplane. It worked for me during the years it took to complete my
kit. But, then I wasn't in Texas
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Huffaker <bifft(at)xmission.com> |
On Wed, 9 Jun 2004, Rver wrote:
>
> Hi, I have an O320-D32B, 160 HP for sale. 2900 TT, 1300 SMOH, 800
> since prop strike. New mags, harness, plugs. 1300 hrs on all other
> accessories. Currently flying in a RV6. I also have a matching
> Sensinech fixed pitch prop for the engine and RV6. Will sell for best
> offer. Please email me with your serious inquires.
Looking for something similar to this for my -8A, but wondering about
the prop strike. Since you've put 800 hours on since, I imagine it wasn't
too bad, do you have more detail on it?
Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com)
RV-8A 80091 Riviting fuselage subfloor.
1/4 Starduster II N23UT flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cory Emberson" <bootless(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Has Anyone Financed an RV kit? |
Hello!
I'm writing an article for Kitplanes magazine about financing for
homebuilts, and just got off the phone with the President of First Pryority
Bank in Oklahoma. We spoke quite a bit about RVs, given that is the ONLY
kind of experimental aircraft they will finance. Van has built up such
long-standing reputation of quality and reliability ... They pretty much
only finance the fastbuild kits, which gets their collateral out of their
hair sooner.
Has anyone had any experience in financing your RV kit, and would you care
to share that experience? Also, if you've had the experience of financing an
already-completed RV, I would love to hear from you as well.
Thanks so much! If you care to contact me off-list, my email address is
cory(at)lightspeededit.com or kpl(at)lightspeededit.com. My "list" email address
is bootless(at)earthlink.net.
Best, Cory
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Anglin" <jlanglin44(at)earthlink.net> |
"RV List"
| Subject: | LASAR IGNITION TIMING |
Hi all -
I have a friend here who is trying to time his new RV-6A with LASAR
ignition................... without a timer. He wants to know if there is
anyone locally who would be willing to loan him one. I have no idea what it
takes but if you have the device to time it you should know . He is on
the airpark at Independence, Oregon. You can get him by emailing me or just
reply to the list.
Jim
HR II almost flying.................
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Jones" <disposable1(at)gpsconnection.com> |
| Subject: | For Sale: Unstarted RV-7 prepunched empennage kit |
Hi All,
I have decided that buying makes more sense than building for me at this time in
my life and have decided to put my RV-7 tail kit up for sale.
It's a new, unstarted prepunched kit with the electric trim tab upgrade and is
still boxed and strapped the way it came from Van's. It was never opened. I
will also include the preview plans set and will assist in any way in any transfer
of ownership documents that Vans might want.
I will deliver anywhere in the ROC / SYR / BUF area for free and will ship anywhere
in the US for actual shipping charges.
The kit is listed at the Van's website for $1425.00 plus $240 for the electric
trim option.
price: $1300
Please send me an email if interested.
Thanks!
Randy Jones
7G0
disposable1(at)gpsconnection.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Has Anyone Financed an RV kit? |
Cory Emberson wrote:
>
>Hello!
>
>I'm writing an article for Kitplanes magazine about financing for
>homebuilts, and just got off the phone with the President of First Pryority
>Bank in Oklahoma. We spoke quite a bit about RVs, given that is the ONLY
>kind of experimental aircraft they will finance. Van has built up such
>long-standing reputation of quality and reliability ... They pretty much
>only finance the fastbuild kits, which gets their collateral out of their
>hair sooner.
>
>Has anyone had any experience in financing your RV kit, and would you care
>to share that experience? Also, if you've had the experience of financing an
>already-completed RV, I would love to hear from you as well.
>
>Thanks so much! If you care to contact me off-list, my email address is
>cory(at)lightspeededit.com or kpl(at)lightspeededit.com. My "list" email address
>is bootless(at)earthlink.net.
>
>Best, Cory
>
I haven't tried to finance a kit, but my 1st RV-4 was financed by my
credit union at work. The interest rate & term of the loan was the same
as for a boat or an ... RV. The short amortization period made the note
a little higher than a 10-15 year loan, but I had no desire to finance
an a/c over such a long period anyway. All they required beyond normal
stuff was an appraisal from an a/c appraiser since they had no 'blue
book' to follow like for cars and ...RV's.
Since it was a credit union, the rate was actually better than the rate
for used factory a/c at the time.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Johnny Johnson" <Johnny(at)wiktel.com> |
| Subject: | Looking for ring gear... should be flywheel assy |
My message:
I want to find a 122-tooth large pulley ring gear for my O-320. Would
prefer to buy outright but will consider swapping my small pulley if you
have an O-320 and want your alternator to turn a little slower.
Reason: I want to install an MT electric prop and I'm told that requires
the large pulley. I would prefer to adapt the prop controls to my current
ring gear to save wear & tear on the alternator, but that apparently isn't
possible.
Thanks Johnny Johnson
RV-3A 49MM
That should be "flywheel" I guess... I need the whole business that goes
behind the prop :=))
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV's and gravel |
Hi Randy:
You will find that most of the gravel runways in the arctic and along the
Alaska highway are well maintained. I have flown my 6 as far north as the
arctic islands leaving the wheel pants on with no problems.
The main concern is prop damage and this can be avoided by restricting the
RPM to max 1200 while taxiing.
on gravel. If there is no paved run-up area or pad I run at 1000 till I get
minimum oil temp, check the mags at 1000 and go. On take-off I open the
throttle gradually until around 30-40 before going to full throttle.
If I have any concerns about the mags I will check them on the downwind leg
before landing.
Hope this helps
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C. RV10 #30 Finishing up the wings
----- Original Message -----
From: "Garrett, Randy L (C4S)" <Randy.L.Garrett(at)gdc4s.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV's and gravel
>
> Hi ...
>
> I have a question about flying off gravel strips. I am planning to fly to
Alaska from Massachusetts in a few weeks in a Van's RV-6A. I'm assuming I
should remove the wheel pants. Should I also remove the gear leg fairings?
I wanted to get advice from people who fly there about the best tradeoff
between operating from gravel versus keeping the drag down with the
fairings. I would only be going to major public airports, not real back
country strips, but still places like Northway are gravel.
>
> Second, any RV-ators along the Alaska Highway or in Fairbanks / Anchorage
area who would like a call or visit on the way?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Randy
> N4031P
> RV-6A 300 hours
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Schlotthauer" <rv7maker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | lectrical planning per Aeroelectric |
Hi All,
I thought that I had my electrics all layed out, and mostly installed until
I started wondering about my e-bus architecture. Per Aeroelectric figure
Z-11, Bob puts a s*&% load of stuff on the e-bus and runs it all off a 7A
fuse. What the heck? And the feed from the main bus, through the diode is
on 16 GA wire (11A max). What am I missing? My layout is more like Z-11 for
the all electric variety, but I would think that I need to size wire, fuses,
switches, and diode for a situation where everything is on. Is this a
difference in fuse ratings and actual loads?
Thanks,
Ross Schlotthauer
www.experimentalair.com
RV-7 wiring (head scratching)
http://join.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200362ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Bell" <DBell(at)ManisteeNational.com> |
Corey,
I have been financing my kit for just over 5 years with NAFCO out of Florida.
I have found it very easy and actually refied a couple times as my kit orders
increased.
I have found it easy, affordable, and a way to get started.
I would be happy to fill you in more if needed.
My 8 is now complete and ready for first flight soon.
Doug Bell
Manistee MI
dbell(at)manisteenational.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rver <rv61234(at)earthlink.net> |
I had a prop strike while taxing in grass. Both prop blades struck t
Idler speed. The engine stopped. I had the crank runout check by the
local mechanic. It was within limits. I have had 800 hrs of trouble
free flying since then.
I have all the log books and the mechanics findings.
Since then, just a few days ago, there is a new AD for prop strike.
Two bolts in the accessory case at the crank gear must be changed. I
am told that it can be done without splitting the case (you need to
verify). This means that the engine will have to come out for repairs.
I have decided in light of the circumstances that I would buy a
superior engine with a little more HP and a constant speed prop if, I
can get a reasonable price for mine. This engine is perfect for
someone building and having it overhauled during the building process.
Rob
On Wednesday, June 9, 2004, at 12:42 PM, Brian Huffaker wrote:
>
> On Wed, 9 Jun 2004, Rver wrote:
>
>>
>> Hi, I have an O320-D32B, 160 HP for sale. 2900 TT, 1300 SMOH, 800
>> since prop strike. New mags, harness, plugs. 1300 hrs on all other
>> accessories. Currently flying in a RV6. I also have a matching
>> Sensinech fixed pitch prop for the engine and RV6. Will sell for best
>> offer. Please email me with your serious inquires.
>
> Looking for something similar to this for my -8A, but wondering
> about
> the prop strike. Since you've put 800 hours on since, I imagine it
> wasn't
> too bad, do you have more detail on it?
>
> Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com)
> RV-8A 80091 Riviting fuselage subfloor.
> 1/4 Starduster II N23UT flying
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
vansairforce
Yesterday afternoon I finally got my StabCam installed and went for a
flight... I'm not too good with the video editing software yet, I have
Pinnacle 8, but I am working on it... If anyone has any suggestions on
better software please let me know... Anyway, I posted three videos to my
site this morning:
http://www.rv8a.com/stabcam/index.htm
-Bill VonDane
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Prop question... |
Travis,
The prop needs to be indexed to the engine correctly. That is, the six bolts
may (in some cases) let the prop go on 6 ways. Actually, there are only 3
ways given the symmetry of the 2 blades. Only one of these ways is correct.
I'll leave it up to the experts to tell you which way is right.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (Doing taxi testing and waiting for FAA registration. I've been saying
"almost done" for the past 6 months!)
In a message dated 6/8/04 12:51:08 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
TravisHamblen(at)cox.net writes:
>
> I just got my prop back from servicing. It is a wood prop and I just had it
> refinished and the tips custom painted by a very reputable prop shop.
> Mostly just for aesthetics, and they sure did a great job! Anyway, my
> question is about reinstalling, just wanted to make sure I didnt miss
> anything critical. After replacing the prop and bolts I torqued the bolts
> to the manufacturers specs and re-safety wired the bolts as needed. I did
> a run-up and tried all RPM ranges from 900 to 2300 (normal static maximum
> RPM). There was no unusual vibration or anything else unusual noted. I
> have heard that it is a good practice to measure from the prop tip to a
> central location and to do it on both tips to make sure the prop is centered
> or symmetrical. Is it better to measure this distance from the ground to
> the tip with the prop in a vertical position or from the tip of the spinner
> to the tips on both sides? Any advice is GREATLY appreciated, just want to
> make sure I didnt forget anything (I had a weird feeling I was forgetting
> something). Anyone with experience or info to pass on please speak-up, I am
> not to proud to take free advice!
>
> Thanks in advance
> Travis Hamblen
> N457DH RV6A @ VGT 342 hours!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: CloudCars prop |
| From: | "Rabaut, Chuck" <Chuck.Rabaut(at)fresnosheriff.org> |
"rv6-list(at)matronics. com \(E-mail\)" ,
"rv7-list(at)matronics. com \(E-mail\)" ,
"rv8-list(at)matronics. com \(E-mail\)" ,
"rv-list(at)matronics. com \(E-mail\)"
2.6 SUSPICIOUS_RECIPS Similar addresses in recipient list
Chris,
I agree whole heartedly about props being a critical component on a aircraft.
I've been flyin' since 1976 (all sorts of aircraft) and I've been fortunate
enough not to have ever had a prop related in-flight problem (though I have
experienced "the joy" of several engine out/dead stick landings, but like
any thrilling story, those take awhile to tell).
What I have learned is that every business starts out as a small "garage
business", as you referred to them. Even IBM started in a garage in Menlo Park,
Ca. The small businesses are the real innovators, they are the ones who
bring the best quality and ideas forward at a "competitive" price; because they
have to just to survive. The BIG guys usually just kick back and rely on their
name. And... you PAY alot of extra $$$ for their name too. I am not knocking
the quality of Sensenich or other big names. But I know that there are
high quality, reasonably priced competitors that I would rather support. Heck,
if I want a Sensenich label on my prop, Sensenich sells their name stickers
in various catalogues too.
When I ordered my prop from Jay at CloudCars, I knew exactly what I wanted.
However Jay also gave me valuable, knowledgeable advice. Now that I have
my prop, Jay is insisting that I hook it up and try it/fly it to see if it performs
as I expected it to. Then I send it back for final backing and edge protection,
and if I need any pitch or other adjustments he'll do that too. Now
I will give updates to the RV-list(s) as I go, but it sure is re-assuring that
CloudCars is that interested in making certain I am (as Jay has said) "Completely
Satisfied" with my new prop.
PaceSetter was not a large company, and unfortunately they are no longer
in the business (though I know the guy still makes props on the side). But
PaceSetter's quality, reliability and name carried a lot of respect from everyone
that I've ever spoken with who has flown on their props. It is very unfortunate
that it took several years for their name and word of their quality to
spread; I think that was a major part of their downfall. I believe CloudCars
is on par with the quality and hence the reliability, of PaceSetter and the
BIG named manufactures in the production of their props. I hazard to guess
that if/when CloudCars gets well known, their prices will certainly rise as the
demand rises for their skilled craftsmanship. But the choice is always up
to the consumer. By the way, ask Jay if he builds three (3) bladed props, I just
got an inquiry about that. Take care, and take to the Air,
Chuck
p.s. Chris I hope you don't mind, I'm gonna CC a copy to the RV-list(s) because
I think this is a valid discussion topic for experimental builders.
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Boultinghouse [mailto:sonexbuilder(at)yahoo.com]
Subject: CloudCars prop
Hi Chuck,
I saw your post on the RV list about the prop you got
from Jay at CloudCars. I dropped him a note about a
prop for my Jabiru 3300/Sonex combo, and received a
prompt reply (and a picture). His prices are
reasonable too (about $250 less than a comparable
Sensenich wood prop). My problem is that my wife is
uncomfortable with the idea of me buying something as
critical as a prop from a "garage business". I was
hoping you'd be able to offer some insight into the
craftmanship and perceived design of the prop. Have
you flown yours yet?
I'm not averted to spending the money for a Sensenich
(or Prince) but I do like to save a buck and help the
little guy as long as I'm not risking my butt to do
so!
Thanks for your thoughts.
====
Best Regards,
Chris Boultinghouse
Austin, TX
Sonex N260SX (reserved)
http://sonex260.wheelsup.org
__________________________________
http://messenger.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 6/10/2004 6:34:21 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com writes:
Can anyone recommend a source for rocker switches at a reasonable price?
=====================================
I bought some from Carlingswitch thru Wicks.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 701 hrs; last trip, Sedona)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Prop question... |
In a message dated 6/10/2004 10:45:12 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Hopperdhh writes:
> Travis,
>
> The prop needs to be indexed to the engine correctly
I disagree. And for the record, so does Lycoming. Check the archives; there is
room for experimentation here to find the index setting that gives most desirable
vibration damping or hand-propping ease or both. Lycoming factory rep has
NO PROBLEM with bolting on a prop in any index configurtation, at least as
far as the O-320 and Sensenich FP metal prop, which is what I specifically called
them about. Again, it's all in the archives... search "prop & index & vibration"
-Bill Boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rabaut, Chuck" <Chuck.Rabaut(at)fresnosheriff.org> |
I've heard of practicing "Dead Stick" landings... but that's ridiculous!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill VonDane
Subject: Re: RV-List: StabCam Flight
Yeah, but it is fast for going backwards!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: StabCam Flight
Bill, you might want to look at the RPM's of your engine. Your prop seems a
little slow!
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Someday
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com>
"vansairforce"
Subject: RV-List: StabCam Flight
>
> Yesterday afternoon I finally got my StabCam installed and went for a
> flight... I'm not too good with the video editing software yet, I have
> Pinnacle 8, but I am working on it... If anyone has any suggestions on
> better software please let me know... Anyway, I posted three videos to my
> site this morning:
> http://www.rv8a.com/stabcam/index.htm
>
> -Bill VonDane
> EAA Tech Counselor
> RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
> www.vondane.com
> www.creativair.com
> www.epanelbuilder.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop question... |
Agreed... I have heard of several different ways of indexing the prop... I
used to do it one way, and now have it indexed a different way and feel the
engine/prop is now smoother at some RPMs, and not at others... I am going
to experiment a bit more...
-Bill VonDane
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <SportAV8R(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop question...
In a message dated 6/10/2004 10:45:12 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Hopperdhh
writes:
> Travis,
>
> The prop needs to be indexed to the engine correctly
I disagree. And for the record, so does Lycoming. Check the archives;
there is room for experimentation here to find the index setting that gives
most desirable vibration damping or hand-propping ease or both. Lycoming
factory rep has NO PROBLEM with bolting on a prop in any index
configurtation, at least as far as the O-320 and Sensenich FP metal prop,
which is what I specifically called them about. Again, it's all in the
archives... search "prop & index & vibration"
-Bill Boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne @ Aircraft Engravers" <wayne(at)engravers.net> |
It all depends on what you call reasonable. Aircraft Engravers has been
engraving the rocker switch operators (the part that rocks back and forth)
for years. We have done many different types of switches over the years,
however, many of our customers use the Honeywell AML54/56 series switches.
They make a quality switch for about $25.00. The operators cost a couple of
bucks each and we can engrave the text if needed.
There is some information on our website about the AML54/56 switches if you
chose to view it http://www.engravers.net/rocker-switches/aml34-36.htm.
Wayne Cahoon
Aircraft Engravers
(860) 653-2780
(860) 653-7324 Fax
http://www.engravers.net
----- Original Message -----
From: <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Switches
>
>
> In a message dated 6/10/2004 6:34:21 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com writes:
>
> Can anyone recommend a source for rocker switches at a reasonable price?
>
>
> =====================================
>
> I bought some from Carlingswitch thru Wicks.
>
> GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 701 hrs; last trip, Sedona)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Bell" <rv4bell(at)door.net> |
Good afternoon all,
Anyone know where to find the Blue Book on a RV4?
Best regards,
Bruce Bell
Lubbock, Texas
RV4 # 2888
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" <F.vanderHulst(at)ucol.ac.nz> |
Cool videos!
Can you tell us how you got your prop turning backwards please? Seems
like that would be a useful thing for slowing an RV up (and for backing
into a hangar) :-)
Actually, I think it might improve the video a lot if you were to paint
the back of the prop black.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
Yesterday afternoon I finally got my StabCam installed and went for a
flight... I'm not too good with the video editing software yet, I have
Pinnacle 8, but I am working on it... If anyone has any suggestions on
better software please let me know... Anyway, I posted three videos to
my site this morning: http://www.rv8a.com/stabcam/index.htm
Learn real skills for the real world - Apply online
at http://www.ucol.ac.nz or call 0800 GO UCOL
(0800 46 8265) or txt free 3388 for more information
and make a good move to UCOL Universal College of
Learning.
Enrol with a public institute and be certain of your
future
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Beaver <jason(at)jasonbeaver.com> |
| Subject: | Re: StabCam Flight |
Actually, you should take the prop off...it's distracting to watch...
jason
On Jun 10, 2004, at 1:55 PM, Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG) wrote:
>
>
> Cool videos!
>
> Can you tell us how you got your prop turning backwards please? Seems
> like that would be a useful thing for slowing an RV up (and for backing
> into a hangar) :-)
>
> Actually, I think it might improve the video a lot if you were to paint
> the back of the prop black.
>
> Frank
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Yesterday afternoon I finally got my StabCam installed and went for a
> flight... I'm not too good with the video editing software yet, I have
> Pinnacle 8, but I am working on it... If anyone has any suggestions on
> better software please let me know... Anyway, I posted three videos to
> my site this morning: http://www.rv8a.com/stabcam/index.htm
> Learn real skills for the real world - Apply online
> at http://www.ucol.ac.nz or call 0800 GO UCOL
> (0800 46 8265) or txt free 3388 for more information
> and make a good move to UCOL Universal College of
> Learning.
>
> Enrol with a public institute and be certain of your
> future
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: > Re: Stab Cam Flight |
Bill:
That new engine is really sharp - Rewinds the rubber band all by itself
!!!!!!
Cool pix,
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cory Emberson" <bootless(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Ken Balch's N118KB in July Kitplanes Magazine |
Hello!
Just a quick note to let you know that Ken Balch's stunning flag-design RV-8 (which
is now for sale) is featured in the July issue of Kitplanes on page 39 (Exteriors
and Interiors)...
Ken, thank you for sharing the story of your plane with me ... I'm sorry I wasn't
able to meet you in person at LAL this year.
best, Cory
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph Koger" <rhkoger(at)fbx.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Boone Annual RV Day |
A REMINDER: ALL DAY JUNE 12TH
COMPLETE AIRPORT INFORMATION AT http://www.cleavelandtool.com/rvday.htm
Boone, IA is 40 miles north northwest of Des Moines, IA
> Join us Saturday June 12th for the "ANNUAL BOONE RV DAY"
>
> See completed RVs and the many projects in process.
> RV-6; three RV-7s; RV-8 and two RV-10s.
>
> Planned presentations on many RV related topics.
> Painting by Don Shear
> Planning for the interior by DJ Lauritsen
> Wireing Aircraft systems.
> First Flight/transition by Stu VanDyke
> Getting the most from your GPS by Chuck Genz
> Doing a thorough annual by Dave Kuykendal
>
> Of course the usual coffee & donuts and noon-catered lunch of BBQ Pork
Sandwiches.
> I will be selling Koger SunShades to thoes that attend for a little less
than wholesale price. I have developed a workable sunshade for the tandem
seating as per RV-8 and RV-3 and will have a unit to see Sat. Those that are
interested in a "TANDEM SEATING KOGER SUNSHADE" can get back to me for more
information.
JUST TRYING TO GET YOU TO JOIN THE RV FUN DAY IN BOONE, IA
Ralph Koger rhkoger(at)fbx.com
==============================================
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
Not really- After 3 weeks of paint prep and no running, I dragged 51PW out of
the hangar to do a runup.... She happily fired on about the 3rd blade and ran
perfectly. Even taxiied up & down the T-hangar row just for kix&giglz. On
shutdown, I set rpm at about 900 and gently pulled mixture back to shut down
(per recent shutdown thread- has been working great!) and the engine slowed to
barely running then ran BACKWARDS for about 3-4 seconds before finally
stopping(?!) Is this a "bad thing"?
Sure did get my attention!
Mark - -6A, E3D. dual mags, nothin' fancy..............
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
per the recent FP prop thread-
I got a 3-blade from Craig Catto and have NO complaints. Does exactly what I
asked him for. Other than a satisfied customer, no connection whatsoever (but
you better get one from him or your plane will fall out of the sky!)
From The PossumWorks way the hell down in nasty, humid, hot as all bejeezus
TN-
Mark -6A, 150 hp, 66X66 Catto, 1200 fpm climb, 190 mph (observed & before
wheel fairings- leg fairings installed) and smoothernababysbutt!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | lectrical planning per Aeroelectric |
Ross,
Suggest you call Bob (evening) I'm sure he can clarify th eissue.
Chuck
>From: "Ross Schlotthauer" <rv7maker(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: lectrical planning per Aeroelectric
>Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2004 22:16:54 -0700
>
>
>Hi All,
>
>I thought that I had my electrics all layed out, and mostly installed until
>I started wondering about my e-bus architecture. Per Aeroelectric figure
>Z-11, Bob puts a s*&% load of stuff on the e-bus and runs it all off a 7A
>fuse. What the heck? And the feed from the main bus, through the diode is
>on 16 GA wire (11A max). What am I missing? My layout is more like Z-11
>for
>the all electric variety, but I would think that I need to size wire,
>fuses,
>switches, and diode for a situation where everything is on. Is this a
>difference in fuse ratings and actual loads?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Ross Schlotthauer
>www.experimentalair.com
>RV-7 wiring (head scratching)
>
>http://join.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200362ave/direct/01/
>
>
Watch the online reality show Mixed Messages with a friend and enter to win
a trip to NY
http://www.msnmessenger-download.click-url.com/go/onm00200497ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com> |
, ,
"vansairforce"
Anyone have any hangar space available in Columbus, NE for this weekend?
Will need it for Friday and Saturday nights if possible...
Thanks!
-Bill VonDane
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | IFR flight tracking |
Anyone know of a free source for tracking data for private aircraft on IFR flight
plans? I've got company coming today and would like to check their progress
before they cancel IFR and drop in at the house...
Many thanks,
-Stormy / RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Bell" <DBell(at)ManisteeNational.com> |
We weighed our 8 last night and thought it may be interesting news for fellow builders
N266WB came in at 1040 lbs. total weight
No Gear Leg Fairings, Wheelpants, or Paint.
VFR Panel
O-360 w/ Ellison Throttle Body
3 Blade Catto Prop
Doug Bell
Manistee,MI
________________________________________________________________________________
does catto props have a URL to learn more about them?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4 Blue Book |
Our county tax people here in the California Central Valley just use Trade-A-Plane
to determine value. They take the average of the TAP for sale prices or your
declared value, whichever is more. :-)
At least that's what the remarkably intelligent girl answering the phone said.
| |
sarcasm---------------------+-----------------------------+
(Just in case anyone missed it)
Bruce Bell wrote:
Good afternoon all,
Anyone know where to find the Blue Book on a RV4?
Best regards,
Bruce Bell
Lubbock, Texas
RV4 # 2888
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
http://www.cattoprops.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <RV8ter(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV 8 Weight
does catto props have a URL to learn more about them?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us(at)hotmail.com> |
Yes, www.cattoprops.com Enjoy, Bruce
>From: RV8ter(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: RV 8 Weight
>Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2004 09:16:47 -0400
>
>
>does catto props have a URL to learn more about them?
>
>
Getting married? Find great tips, tools and the latest trends at MSN Life
Events. http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=married
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Alley <n320wt(at)yahoo.com> |
http://www.cattoprops.com/
====
BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
304-872-7938 shop
304-562-6800 home
How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us(at)hotmail.com> |
You should be very close to factory print on your finish weight all said and
done. My target weight is to come in at 1050-1060# all said. Fixed, no
vacuum, and simple day/night VFR should do it. Best of luck on test phase I.
Bruce
>From: "Doug Bell" <DBell(at)ManisteeNational.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: RV 8 Weight
>Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2004 08:48:05 -0400
>
>
>We weighed our 8 last night and thought it may be interesting news for
>fellow builders
>
>N266WB came in at 1040 lbs. total weight
>
>No Gear Leg Fairings, Wheelpants, or Paint.
>
>VFR Panel
>O-360 w/ Ellison Throttle Body
>3 Blade Catto Prop
>
>Doug Bell
>Manistee,MI
>
>
http://join.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200361ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
when I last weighted my -8A after the panel upgrades it was 1020#... I want
to weight it again after my overhaul because I took off the primer system
and put on a light weight starter...
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV 8 Weight
You should be very close to factory print on your finish weight all said and
done. My target weight is to come in at 1050-1060# all said. Fixed, no
vacuum, and simple day/night VFR should do it. Best of luck on test phase I.
Bruce
>From: "Doug Bell" <DBell(at)ManisteeNational.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: RV 8 Weight
>Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2004 08:48:05 -0400
>
>
>We weighed our 8 last night and thought it may be interesting news for
>fellow builders
>
>N266WB came in at 1040 lbs. total weight
>
>No Gear Leg Fairings, Wheelpants, or Paint.
>
>VFR Panel
>O-360 w/ Ellison Throttle Body
>3 Blade Catto Prop
>
>Doug Bell
>Manistee,MI
>
>
http://join.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200361ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andy Karmy <andy(at)karmy.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition Problem? |
Hey Fred,
Thanks for the help in thinking through my electronic ignition issue.
Turns out everything checked out ok, except one plug wire end. I
reterminated all of the plug ends and one had some black junk at the
end of the wire where it was arcing. After cleaning and reseating the
springs everything is working much better.
- Andy Karmy
andy(at)karmy.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Smith" <dave(at)rv10project.net> |
| Subject: | Oops rivet question |
I'm riveting the brackets on the front HS spar of a -10. The called out
rivet is a AN470AD4-10. I wasn't happy w/ how one of them set, so I drilled
it out. Now the hole is large enough that when I squeeze a new -10, I can't
get a big enough shop head.
They make oops rivets to go from AD3 to AD4, but I haven't seen any that go
from AD4 to AD5.
So, do I order some AD5-10's and drill the hole a bit larger, or try an
AD4-11 and try not to cleat it?
------------------------------------------
Dave Smith
http://www.rv10project.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "glennpaulwilkinson" <gpww(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Pacesetter Prop For Sale |
Hey Guys:
I have a Pacesetter 200 prop for sale, it is a 68x69, has the urethane leading
edge, 22 hrs flight time. It came off of a RV-4 w/ 160 HP but should work well
with 150 HP too since it has less pitch than what I wanted. It is a good intermediate
between a cruise and climb prop. I am asking -$600.00 which includes
the 3/8 prop bolts.-
Glenn Wilkinson 478-452-6813
gpww(at)alltel.net
N654RV @ OKZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oops rivet question |
Hey Dave
This is what has worked well for me.
if the hole is larger that you original rivet but smaller than the next
size up, you can carefully pre squeeze a slightly longer rivet of the
original size. that will swell the body (and make it a little shorter in
the process).
practise a bit and you will find that you can make the rivet swell just
enough to:
a: fit well in the enlarged hole
b: still put on a good head.
done that several times after I had to drill a rivet out.
good luck.
Gert
Dave Smith wrote:
>
> I'm riveting the brackets on the front HS spar of a -10. The called out
> rivet is a AN470AD4-10. I wasn't happy w/ how one of them set, so I drilled
> it out. Now the hole is large enough that when I squeeze a new -10, I can't
> get a big enough shop head.
>
> They make oops rivets to go from AD3 to AD4, but I haven't seen any that go
> from AD4 to AD5.
>
> So, do I order some AD5-10's and drill the hole a bit larger, or try an
> AD4-11 and try not to cleat it?
>
>
> ------------------------------------------
> Dave Smith
> http://www.rv10project.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oops rivet question |
| From: | sjhdcl(at)kingston.net |
I would drill it #12 and insert an AN3 bolt so long as there is no
interference.
Steve
RV7A
Flying
>
> I'm riveting the brackets on the front HS spar of a -10. The called out
> rivet is a AN470AD4-10. I wasn't happy w/ how one of them set, so I
> drilled
> it out. Now the hole is large enough that when I squeeze a new -10, I
> can't
> get a big enough shop head.
>
> They make oops rivets to go from AD3 to AD4, but I haven't seen any that
> go
> from AD4 to AD5.
>
> So, do I order some AD5-10's and drill the hole a bit larger, or try an
> AD4-11 and try not to cleat it?
>
>
> ------------------------------------------
> Dave Smith
> http://www.rv10project.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oops rivet question |
At 08:29 2004-06-11, you wrote:
>
>I'm riveting the brackets on the front HS spar of a -10. The called out
>rivet is a AN470AD4-10. I wasn't happy w/ how one of them set, so I drilled
>it out. Now the hole is large enough that when I squeeze a new -10, I can't
>get a big enough shop head.
>
>They make oops rivets to go from AD3 to AD4, but I haven't seen any that go
>from AD4 to AD5.
>
>So, do I order some AD5-10's and drill the hole a bit larger, or try an
>AD4-11 and try not to cleat it?
>
>
>------------------------------------------
>Dave Smith
>http://www.rv10project.net
You can get NAS1097AD-5 and AD-6 rivets (oops rivets in larger sizes). I
don't think that Van's Aircraft carries them. I got mine from Columbia
Airmotive in Troutdale, Oregon. 503-665-4896
Mike McGee
VAF Home Wing/EAA Chapter 105 Flyin Coordinator
June 19th, 2004
Scappoose, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oops rivet question |
Dave
place a small piece of aluminum stock with a little proseal on it and redrill it
to 1/8".
Measure the grip length and re set.
Peter
> I'm riveting the brackets on the front HS spar of a -10. The called
> out rivet is a AN470AD4-10. I wasn't happy w/ how one of them set, so
> I drilled it out. Now the hole is large enough that when I squeeze a
> new -10, I can't get a big enough shop head.
>
> They make oops rivets to go from AD3 to AD4, but I haven't seen any
> that go from AD4 to AD5.
>
> So, do I order some AD5-10's and drill the hole a bit larger, or try
> an AD4-11 and try not to cleat it?
>
>
> ------------------------------------------
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rabaut, Chuck" <Chuck.Rabaut(at)fresnosheriff.org> |
I can confirm that is true for Fresno County Tax Asscessor. Lord it use to be
easy to say "Aw, it's just a pile of aluminum that I build into a plane... it
ain't really worth much." But nowadays with RV's selling for $50,000 - $120,000
life is just getting too darn expensive. I wonder what they're doing with
all our tax dollars. The county don't provide no funding to any airports.
They don't help regulate airspace. Heck-a-doodle they don't do anything related
to flying. Where's that money goin' anyway?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Scott
Vanartsdalen
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV4 Blue Book
Our county tax people here in the California Central Valley just use Trade-A-Plane
to determine value. They take the average of the TAP for sale prices or your
declared value, whichever is more. :-)
At least that's what the remarkably intelligent girl answering the phone said.
| |
sarcasm---------------------+-----------------------------+
(Just in case anyone missed it)
Bruce Bell wrote:
Good afternoon all,
Anyone know where to find the Blue Book on a RV4?
Best regards,
Bruce Bell
Lubbock, Texas
RV4 # 2888
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve & Denise" <sjhdcl(at)kingston.net> |
"RV List" ,
"Aeroelectric List"
| Subject: | Transponder problem found |
I few days ago I asked for suggestions concerning my GTX327 having intermittent
transmissions as ATC calls it.
After replacing the BNC connectors and the antenna I decided to still get it bench
tested.
After finding a decent shop (not easy) the problem was located. The unit would
pump out 30W instead of the minimum
125W. Tech commented that max range would be 60 nm. I found it to be more like
30 nm at 6000 ft. Not good enough.
The cost to get these things fixed is not cheap. Garmin has a flat rate for each
individual unit and the 327 is $250USD.
Plus I got it looked at locally that cost be $160. Plus FedEx shipping a few times.
You can also get a free loner if you talk
to the Garmin dealer where you bought it. The only cost is shipping. I'll post
the total cost when I get it back. Somewhere
around $600USD. Ouch.
So if you're transponder is intermittent, get it tested. It is rarely the antenna
and BNC connectors problem. But hey its
the easiest thing to trouble shoot.
Steve Hurlbut
RV7A
Flying (no class B for a while)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan White" <whited(at)rpi.edu> |
| Subject: | Advice for apartment dwelling wannabe builder? |
I currently live in a Brooklyn, NY apartment. For those of you not
familiar with the city, living spaces can be a bit small and
apartments generally do not come with garages. We plan on moving in
a couple years, but I've gotten the hardcore building bug and am
anxious to get started on a project.
Any possible shop areas would most likely be very far away and I have
a full time job. Do I wait until better situated? Has anyone
managed a build under similar circumstances? And how did you do it?
Also, from all the build logs I've read there comes a point when the
plane is almost complete and it's trailered up and moved to the
airport hangar for finishing. Does everybody out there have access
to hangar space? I've personally never been to a field that didn't
have a very long waiting list for even the dingiest hangars. What do
people do at that stage of the build if they can't secure any indoor
storage?
Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4 Blue Book |
For your best interests, you need to point out to the nice people in the tax
office that Trade a Plane shows Asking prices, not Selling prices. There is
often a significant difference.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Vanartsdalen" <svanarts(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV4 Blue Book
>
> Our county tax people here in the California Central Valley just use
Trade-A-Plane to determine value. They take the average of the TAP for sale
prices or your declared value, whichever is more. :-)
>
> At least that's what the remarkably intelligent girl answering the phone
said.
>
>
> | |
> sarcasm---------------------+-----------------------------+
> (Just in case anyone missed it)
>
> Bruce Bell wrote:
>
> Good afternoon all,
> Anyone know where to find the Blue Book on a RV4?
> Best regards,
> Bruce Bell
> Lubbock, Texas
> RV4 # 2888
>
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen
> RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
>
> When a man does all he can
> though it succeeds not well,
> blame not him that did it."
> -- George Washington
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oops rivet question |
If I understand this suggestion correctly, the idea is to create a washer of
sorts for the rivet head to bear on. If this is the case, this isn't a good
technique. Rivets are primarily designed for shear strength, and a fix of
this sort is very poor in shear and not a whole lot better in tension. Now,
if you're attaching platenuts or something cosmetic, it'll be fine, but for
anything that has meaningful structural loads, this is a definite no-no.
Being the builder, it is up to you to identify areas that have meaningful
structural loads.
One thing to consider in the future is that unless you've really screwed up
a rivet, you're probably better to leave a marginal rivets than to drill it
out and replace it. It is awfully hard to drill out a rivet without
enlarging or mis-shaping the hole. This was discussed in an RV-ator article
some years back.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: <plaurence@the-beach.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oops rivet question
>
> Dave
>
> place a small piece of aluminum stock with a little proseal on it and
redrill it to 1/8".
> Measure the grip length and re set.
>
>
> Peter
>
>
> > I'm riveting the brackets on the front HS spar of a -10. The called
> > out rivet is a AN470AD4-10. I wasn't happy w/ how one of them set, so
> > I drilled it out. Now the hole is large enough that when I squeeze a
> > new -10, I can't get a big enough shop head.
> >
> > They make oops rivets to go from AD3 to AD4, but I haven't seen any
> > that go from AD4 to AD5.
> >
> > So, do I order some AD5-10's and drill the hole a bit larger, or try
> > an AD4-11 and try not to cleat it?
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------------
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Hyde" <nauga(at)brick.net> |
| Subject: | re: Great service |
> I pulled the wires out of my oil temp.
> probe and of course it quit working.
Must be a bad week for oil temp senders.
Mine failed last weekend. I called Grand Rapids
on Monday and received a new one on Wednesday.
They said to try the new one and pay them
for it if it worked. They've been really
helpful with this and several other issues.
I think the reason it failed was 'cause I shook it
to death. I had my prop balanced today. Went from
0.3+ ips down to 0.05 ips with two runs on the
analyzer. The difference is amazing. Too windy
and too short on time to fly it, I'll find out
later if it took care of the shake at ~2200 RPM
and 120-140 KIAS.
Dave Hyde
nauga(at)brick.net
RV-4 in flight test, EAA tech counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank Thackeray <franko1944(at)yahoo.com> |
please do not send me any more emails.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com> |
| Subject: | Advice for apartment dwelling wannabe builder? |
I have heard of one person that built a KR-2 in the living room of their
high rise apartment. Anything can be done. Depends on how tolerant your
wife is!
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dan White
Subject: RV-List: Advice for apartment dwelling wannabe builder?
I currently live in a Brooklyn, NY apartment. For those of you not
familiar with the city, living spaces can be a bit small and
apartments generally do not come with garages. We plan on moving in
a couple years, but I've gotten the hardcore building bug and am
anxious to get started on a project.
Any possible shop areas would most likely be very far away and I have
a full time job. Do I wait until better situated? Has anyone
managed a build under similar circumstances? And how did you do it?
Also, from all the build logs I've read there comes a point when the
plane is almost complete and it's trailered up and moved to the
airport hangar for finishing. Does everybody out there have access
to hangar space? I've personally never been to a field that didn't
have a very long waiting list for even the dingiest hangars. What do
people do at that stage of the build if they can't secure any indoor
storage?
Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Comp User" <trebla(at)directinter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Advice for apartment dwelling wannabe builder? |
You have to ask yourself "how bad do I want it?" I built tailfeathers in the
kitchen. Stored wings in the hallway. Worked on them half in the bedroom
sticking out into the living room. The wife asked me one day what kind of
furniture polish to use on the motor. It was in the living room for months.
She dusted it just like it was another piece of furniture. If you are
planing on moving in a couple of years you can get a lot of the small stuff
done now. Look for a place with any kind of garage when you buy. You will
become a master at using the space you have. Check for an EAA group in the
area. They can be a big help and may have some connections. Good luck.
Albert Smith
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oops rivet question |
>
>One thing to consider in the future is that unless you've really screwed up
>a rivet, you're probably better to leave a marginal rivets than to drill it
>out and replace it. It is awfully hard to drill out a rivet without
>enlarging or mis-shaping the hole. This was discussed in an RV-ator article
>some years back.
>
While I agree with the general sentiment of Kyle's suggestion, I
think many new builders simply aren't using a very good technique for
drilling out rivets. I use an adaptation of the following technique,
posted by Leo Davies in 1996:
===================
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 14:52:45 -0800
From: Leo Davies
Subject: Re: RV-List: Drilling out rivets
There may be some metal working gurus out there with more experience but
here are a few tips (painfully acquired).
Like driving rivets drilling them out should be practised on scrap. Set a
dozen rivets in two bits of scrap and practive drilling them out.
Center punch the heads before you start to drill. Use a drill the same size
as the rivet shank but only drill to the depth of the head. Use a drive pin
punch of appropriate size to break the head out. Now finish drilling through
the rivet with a drill that is well undersize. eg #40 for a 1/8 rivet, #50
for a 3/32. You should be able to do this so that you don't touch the
material. You now have a stress relieving hole through the centre of the
rivet. Now have a good look at the whole situation: are there any proud
bits left on the factory head side? If so get a jeweller's file and tidy
up. Now... get some species of gripping pliers and gently turn the rivet in
the hole by holding the shop head. Sometimes with gentle traction the whole
thing will come out like a bolt from a hole.
If not..... now is the time to drive the remaining shaft out. Use the
correct size pin punch. SUPPORT the back of the material!!!. I use a lump
of lead left over from my elevator counter weights with lots of shop head
sized holes drilled in it so that no matter where the rivet is I can support
it from behind. This stops the bending in the back piece of material. You
may need a third hand to help with this. Driving the rivet should not take
much whack. If it doesn't come out with a wristy tap then you have some
proud material somewhere. Stop and look again. If you have expanded the
rivet between the two sheets of material the hole you drilled in the middle
may allow you to crush the rivet with pliers untill there is enough
clearance to wriggle it out.
The above technique works pretty well for me. I do remember being similairly
frustrated in the empennage, the wings much less, the fuselage not at all.
Van's parts are cheap so If you finish with a part you are unhappy with
throw it and order a new one. I have a collection of about 6 "bits" that
have cost me $50 in parts and $100 in postage. Trivial in the cost of the
airplane.
Cheers,
Leo Davies
Sydney, Australia
===================
I do one thing a bit different than Leo - I don't drill the small
hole quite all the way through the rivet. I try to drill just a bit
deeper than the thickness of the two pieces of material the rivet is
holding together. Then I insert a small punch in that hole, and tap
the rivet out. Being sure all the head is removed first, and being
carelful to support the back side of the material. Every once in a
while the piece of rivet will be jammed on the end of the punch after
it comes out of the hole. But a quick twist with a pair of pliers
has always been able to pull the piece of rivet off the punch.
And as Leo said, practice drilling rivets out on some scrap first.
Try drilling out some of those ugly ones you made when you were
practicing riveting.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4 Blue Book |
I wish I had the foresight that another list'er showed and called my plane a Scooter
Srap-pile Special. Find that in TAP!
As for your suggestion, you are of course correct. That is very logical approach
and something I would consider but answer this first: What's a good comeback
for "Well I don't know, SIR, that's just how we've always done it." ?
Kyle Boatright wrote:
For your best interests, you need to point out to the nice people in the tax
office that Trade a Plane shows Asking prices, not Selling prices. There is
often a significant difference.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Vanartsdalen"
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV4 Blue Book
>
> Our county tax people here in the California Central Valley just use
Trade-A-Plane to determine value. They take the average of the TAP for sale
prices or your declared value, whichever is more. :-)
>
> At least that's what the remarkably intelligent girl answering the phone
said.
>
>
> | |
> sarcasm---------------------+-----------------------------+
> (Just in case anyone missed it)
>
> Bruce Bell wrote:
>
> Good afternoon all,
> Anyone know where to find the Blue Book on a RV4?
> Best regards,
> Bruce Bell
> Lubbock, Texas
> RV4 # 2888
>
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen
> RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
>
> When a man does all he can
> though it succeeds not well,
> blame not him that did it."
> -- George Washington
>
>
ion
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Great Service |
In a message dated 6/11/04 12:16:59 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
Karl.Schilling(at)ssfhs.org writes:
<< The first was Great Lakes the maker of the EIS engine monitor. >>
Hey Karl, I agree totally with your sentiment regarding the great service
from these folks, only the name of the company is Grand Rapids, not Great Lakes.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, final assembly
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Corrosion Protection in the UK |
| From: | "Tim Butterworth" <Tim.Butterworth(at)cvluk.com> |
Hi,
I seem to get 2 conflicting stories as to whether I need to apply corrosion protection
to an RV9A as I build it in the UK. Some say that given the high quality
of the material and that it will be hangared, it is not necessary; other say
that the weather in the UK is so much more damp and humid that it will be corroded
within 3 years if I don't irrespective of it is hangared.
Is there a consensus view?
Thanks
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Huft" <rv8tor(at)lazy8.net> |
| Subject: | Oops rivet question |
I agree with all this, but when it comes time for the punch, I use a
spring-loaded center punch. Often the snap action pops the remainder of the
rivet out.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kevin Horton
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oops rivet question
>
>One thing to consider in the future is that unless you've really screwed up
>a rivet, you're probably better to leave a marginal rivets than to drill it
>out and replace it. It is awfully hard to drill out a rivet without
>enlarging or mis-shaping the hole. This was discussed in an RV-ator
article
>some years back.
>
While I agree with the general sentiment of Kyle's suggestion, I
think many new builders simply aren't using a very good technique for
drilling out rivets. I use an adaptation of the following technique,
posted by Leo Davies in 1996:
===================
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 14:52:45 -0800
From: Leo Davies
Subject: Re: RV-List: Drilling out rivets
There may be some metal working gurus out there with more experience but
here are a few tips (painfully acquired).
Like driving rivets drilling them out should be practised on scrap. Set a
dozen rivets in two bits of scrap and practive drilling them out.
Center punch the heads before you start to drill. Use a drill the same size
as the rivet shank but only drill to the depth of the head. Use a drive pin
punch of appropriate size to break the head out. Now finish drilling through
the rivet with a drill that is well undersize. eg #40 for a 1/8 rivet, #50
for a 3/32. You should be able to do this so that you don't touch the
material. You now have a stress relieving hole through the centre of the
rivet. Now have a good look at the whole situation: are there any proud
bits left on the factory head side? If so get a jeweller's file and tidy
up. Now... get some species of gripping pliers and gently turn the rivet in
the hole by holding the shop head. Sometimes with gentle traction the whole
thing will come out like a bolt from a hole.
If not..... now is the time to drive the remaining shaft out. Use the
correct size pin punch. SUPPORT the back of the material!!!. I use a lump
of lead left over from my elevator counter weights with lots of shop head
sized holes drilled in it so that no matter where the rivet is I can support
it from behind. This stops the bending in the back piece of material. You
may need a third hand to help with this. Driving the rivet should not take
much whack. If it doesn't come out with a wristy tap then you have some
proud material somewhere. Stop and look again. If you have expanded the
rivet between the two sheets of material the hole you drilled in the middle
may allow you to crush the rivet with pliers untill there is enough
clearance to wriggle it out.
The above technique works pretty well for me. I do remember being similairly
frustrated in the empennage, the wings much less, the fuselage not at all.
Van's parts are cheap so If you finish with a part you are unhappy with
throw it and order a new one. I have a collection of about 6 "bits" that
have cost me $50 in parts and $100 in postage. Trivial in the cost of the
airplane.
Cheers,
Leo Davies
Sydney, Australia
===================
I do one thing a bit different than Leo - I don't drill the small
hole quite all the way through the rivet. I try to drill just a bit
deeper than the thickness of the two pieces of material the rivet is
holding together. Then I insert a small punch in that hole, and tap
the rivet out. Being sure all the head is removed first, and being
carelful to support the back side of the material. Every once in a
while the piece of rivet will be jammed on the end of the punch after
it comes out of the hole. But a quick twist with a pair of pliers
has always been able to pull the piece of rivet off the punch.
And as Leo said, practice drilling rivets out on some scrap first.
Try drilling out some of those ugly ones you made when you were
practicing riveting.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Corrosion Protection in the UK |
In a message dated 6/12/2004 12:32:42 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
Tim.Butterworth(at)cvluk.com writes:
I seem to get 2 conflicting stories as to whether I need to apply corrosion
protection to an RV9A as I build it in the UK. Some say that given the high
quality of the material and that it will be hangared, it is not necessary;
other say that the weather in the UK is so much more damp and humid that it
will be corroded within 3 years if I don't irrespective of it is hangared.
Is there a consensus view?
=====================================
There is rarely a consensus on anything, however, it all boils down to your
comfort level relative to the investment you are making in your aircraft.
Are you a "long term" or "short term" kind of person. I've been into building
high reliability military hardware for most of my adult life as a career, so
I'm a long haul kind of guy. I want the fruit of my labor to pay off over
the balance of my lifetime. Our disposable culture today drives me nuts.
In contrast, I endeavor to build planes that will last forever. Since
nothing really lasts forever, it will probably last a good long time. If I sell
it sometime in the future, it will not be a liability burden for me, as it is
built to the very highest of standards. Unless the potential new owner flies
it into the ground, it will continue to stay together over the long haul.
I say prime it and it will last longer than you need it to. I would hate to
have any plane of mine deteriorating before my eyes ever.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 701 hrs; last trip, Sedona)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV4 Blue Book |
In a message dated 6/12/2004 7:41:46 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
T.gummo(at)verizon.net writes:
The tax people will come at your from all angles. While they couldn't look
up Gummo Special in Trade a Plane, they found my construction loan and used
it for the value of the plane. Of course, it is much lower than insured
value of the plane so I am still pretty happy about that.
==================================
In my area they have figured out that ploy and require for you, under
penalty of perjury, to state the insured hull value on a form you must return to
them early in the year. They are serious about collecting the maximum tax $$
these days.
So right up front they use an averaging scheme based on the asking prices of
similar aircraft listed in Trade-a-Plane, they assume that you have all the
bells and whistles on your plane, require you to state the insured value and
are more than willing to come out and inspect the aircraft, otherwise your
plane will be impounded.
It is up to you to fight back and negotiate a lower tax burden, and you may
have to do this every year in order to retain the privilege of hangaring your
aircraft within the county limits. If you would have just blown your money
instead on wine, women and song, they wouldn't have a prayer, but because you
built an airplane with it, you will pay forever. What a deal for them. And
the worst part is that the $$ go into the general fund, not to the county
airports.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 701 hrs; last trip, Sedona)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Roseblade <davidagr(at)emirates.net.ae> |
| Subject: | Infinity Aerospace control grips position and stick length |
Listers
I am installing Infinity control grips in my RV6, I notice from a few
photos from my visits to Oshkosh that some builders fit it offset,
rather than level across the aircraft Can I have a few opinions from
both camps. IE, does it cause problems with your wrist , sitting in my
aircraft with my arm on the arm rest it seems that there is quite a bit
of angle needed in the wrist joint... Also, what is the optimum length
for the control stick.
Regards
David Roseblade
RV 6 Finishing
Dubai, UAE
Persian Gulf
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Torquing brass brake fittings |
I am installing my bake lines. I can find no torque specifications for
the brass, high pressure fittings (the ones that take the high pressure
plastic tubing on an RV dual brake system). I find storque pecs for the
aluminum AN fittings and for steel fittings, but not brass. Does any on
have any information on this? I'm guessing the brass would be somewhere
between Aluminum and steel.
Thanks,
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, Brakes
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "qcbccgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Torquing brass brake fittings |
Torquing tubing fittings is overkill. Clocking or the pointing of the
fitting is more important. Of course you don't want it to leak so use pipe
dope on the threads NOT tape. Many pipe dopes have powdered Teflon in them
to make turning easier and this then makes any torquing spec wrong. The
also has "crazy glue" to maintain the "clocking" without over tightening.
Keep the dope back of the first thread so it doesn't get into the system.
Incidentally, tapered pipe threads are self-locking by design.
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Torquing brass brake fittings
>
> I am installing my bake lines. I can find no torque specifications for
> the brass, high pressure fittings (the ones that take the high pressure
> plastic tubing on an RV dual brake system). I find storque pecs for the
> aluminum AN fittings and for steel fittings, but not brass. Does any on
> have any information on this? I'm guessing the brass would be somewhere
> between Aluminum and steel.
>
> Thanks,
>
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A, Brakes
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Suffoletto" <rsuffoletto(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Gyro & DG mounting mounting |
I am mounting a DG Gyro in my 7A panel and they are a bit too long to fit properly.
I was not able to find anything in the archives on this so can someone tell
me how they solved the interference problem or direct me to someone's web
site where there may be pictures posted. I realize I can cut into the rear panel
but would like to hear what others have done.
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Infinity Aerospace control grips position and stick length |
In a message dated 6/12/2004 11:35:43 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
davidagr(at)emirates.net.ae writes:
I am installing Infinity control grips in my RV6, I notice from a few
photos from my visits to Oshkosh that some builders fit it offset,
rather than level across the aircraft Can I have a few opinions from
both camps. IE, does it cause problems with your wrist , sitting in my
aircraft with my arm on the arm rest it seems that there is quite a bit
of angle needed in the wrist joint... Also, what is the optimum length
for the control stick.
===============================
I placed my Teak grips with a little rotation so that Mr. Hand comes in at a
comfortable angle with no cocking of the wrist. The stick needs to be long
enough to reach Mr. Hand but not so long that the grip with your hand and
thumb around it hits the panel or controls.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 701 hrs; last trip, Sedona)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Wiegenstein" <n727jw(at)hellerwiegenstein.com> |
| Subject: | Tailwheel Chain Tension |
My slow build 6 is now starting taxi tests. Everything feels fine and I've
not run into anything, but I have some uncertainty as to the proper tension
or slack on the tailwheel chains. I checked the archives and found a lot
of related information, but nothing really specific on this point. For a
low time (new) tailwheel pilot, what's the general consensus, if any? A
link or two of slack? More? At the current setting I have probably 2-3
links of slack, and have to use a lot of pedal to get what feels like
meaningful tailwheel steering. But full pedal easily unlocks the tailwheel,
and its easy to get locked again with the pedals centered and taxiing a few
feet. On the other hand it doesn't feel as though there is much tailwheel
steering happening at normal taxi speeds and pedal deflections.
John Wiegenstein
Hansville, WA
RV-6 N727JW
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Advice for apartment dwelling wannabe builder? |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Dan,
I'll reiterate what several others have already said, if you wanna do it
bad enough, you'll find a way to make it happen. Might as well get
started now. Some folks think you need a huge shop plumbed with air and
a pneumatic squeezer, cable TV, kitchenette, jacuzzi, yada yada
yada...don't listen to 'em. : ) I've been building my -8A in a condo
for the past 5 years. I'm a bit better off than you in that I have a
garage, but it's still a more difficult situation than most folks have
since my neighbor's living room is on the other side of my garage wall,
and we have no basement so space is tight. Plus it's only a two bedroom
condo and we have two kids now....our newest car is a rusty, hail-damaged
'91 Corolla and the car I drive was built before I was born and before
Neil Armstrong took that one small step onto the moon ('67 Plymouth
Belvedere). I don't own an air drill, have never seen the need for one,
nor a pneumatic squeezer, nor a drill press or lots of other
"nice-to-haves."
Now for some practical advice:
1) Above all, you must have a very supportive wife (partner, dog,
whatever else shares your living space and income). My wife has
sacrificed a lot for me to fulfill this dream....she's a priceless gem.
2) Almost as important, you need to make good friends with any neighbors
within earshot of your riveting. 95% of your time building the RV will
be relatively quiet (cordless drill, filing edges, squeezing rivets,
reading plans, etc). The relatively few hours you'll spend dimpling with
a hammer or using a rivet gun can be done on Saturday afternoons, and if
you're on good terms with your neighbors and they know what's going
on--and you aren't keeping them awake at night--they'll probably not
complain. My neighbors have been great.
3) Along the lines of noise reduction, by all means get a belt-driven
compressor. MUCH, MUCH quieter than the oil-less direct drive types.
They cost a bit more but you'll be thankful (as will your family and
neighbors) every time you turn it on.
4) Bulky, expensive tools like a drill press are rarely needed and on
the rare occasion that I've had to use one I just went over to a friend's
house (thanks Alan).
5) If you want to prime everything internally, you're gonna have a
problem in your apartment. Either you'll have to take all the parts
somewhere else to prime, or just forego this step. If you have a patio
or deck you might be able to get away with using some of the rattle can
primer (i.e. Sherwin Williams 988) and just hit the rivet seams where
there's metal-to-metal contact. Quick, easy, minimal overspray and it
keeps the airplane light. Will be fine like this unless you plan to keep
it next to the ocean where it gets bathed in salt spray...
I'd say you could pretty easily get the empennage and wings done in an
apartment. Beyond that, it will begin to get very difficult...the
fuselage is too big to get out of an average apartment door or window,
and is a pain to move too. I'd be looking seriously for something with a
two-car garage when you want to start the fuselage. Some have done it in
a one-car garage space, but you have to have some other storage/hangar
space available to put the parts that are completed as you progress. My
biggest problem is the condo has no basement, so about half of my
airplane is in a neighbor's basement (did I mention I have great
neighbors?). The rest of it is wedged into every nook and cranny and
closet corner I could find.
Good luck....call Vans on Monday, order an empennage and you'll figure
out a way to make it happen.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D prepping fuselage for paint....in my paint booth, in my
condo... : )
From: "Dan White" <whited(at)rpi.edu>
Subject: RV-List: Advice for apartment dwelling wannabe builder?
I currently live in a Brooklyn, NY apartment. For those of you not
familiar with the city, living spaces can be a bit small and
apartments generally do not come with garages. We plan on moving in
a couple years, but I've gotten the hardcore building bug and am
anxious to get started on a project.
Any possible shop areas would most likely be very far away and I have
a full time job. Do I wait until better situated? Has anyone
managed a build under similar circumstances? And how did you do it?
Also, from all the build logs I've read there comes a point when the
plane is almost complete and it's trailered up and moved to the
airport hangar for finishing. Does everybody out there have access
to hangar space? I've personally never been to a field that didn't
have a very long waiting list for even the dingiest hangars. What do
people do at that stage of the build if they can't secure any indoor
storage?
Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jamesbaldwin(at)attglobal.net |
| Subject: | Re: IT'S ALIVE!] |
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Re: RV-List: IT'S ALIVE!
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2004 13:26:42 -0700
From: jamesbaldwin(at)attglobal.net
Hi Bill -
The original Cheetah engine was 150 HP. The Tiger version had 180 HP.
The "HP ratio" is thus 180/150 or 1.2. The cube root of 1.2 is about
1.063, yielding a speed increase of 6 percent or so. Other issues,
complicate the actual gain but this usually turns out to be pretty close
for the smaller HP ratios. As you pointed out, climb and performance in
density altitude challenged operations is a bigger benefit. For the
RV7a, I personally would be more concerned with the issue of straight
valve cylinders versus the angle valve version. The 180 is a hard
engine to beat (same basic cylinders as on the IO540 C4B5 I am planning
to use on my Harman Rocket) for reliability and the 200 HP weighs more
as well. This weight issue is one of the other performance factors many
forget to include when romancing the idea of big HP numbers. JBB
Bill Schlatterer wrote:
>James, just seeking clarity. I have seen this calculation before but it
>isn't clear to me what "cube root of the HP ratio" really is. In your
>Cheetah example, there was a 30 hp increase. The cube root of 30 is about
>3.1x so where does the 6 MPH come from. This is a particularly good example
>since I am building a RV7a and considering the difference between a 180 and
>200 and really can't see it except in climb.
>
>Having said that I would really like to see the specific calculation on the
>Cheetah example if you wouldn't mind.
>
>Thanks Bill S
>7a QB Fuse
>Maumelle, Arkansas
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
>jamesbaldwin(at)attglobal.net
>Sent: Friday, June 04, 2004 6:43 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: IT'S ALIVE!
>
>
>I have seen several posts here with comments regarding speed vs
>horsepower, most recently Bill Von Dan's comment on converting his 0-320
>to 160 HP. Just so you other guys don't perform these engine hop-ups
>to gain unattainable speed increases I hasten to point out that the
>increase in speed (cruise) is the cube root of the horsepower ratio. In
>other words, add an engine with 50% more power (pretty difficult without
>increasing displacement) and you might see as much as 14% speed
>increase. If it was a 170 mph airframe it would now cruise best case
>at maybe 193 mph. Of course the big engine will have more cooling drag,
>perhaps a larger cowl, etc., so the increase is more likely less.
> A friend told me, after converting his Grumman Cheetah, 150 HP, to a
>Tiger with 180 HP that his cruise was 20 mph faster. Of course large
>numbers of beers were bet and only barely did I escape the Betty Ford
>Clinic. The speed increase worked out to 6 mph which was very close to
>the cube root of the HP ratio. Just thought you guys might like to know
>before you spend the bucks upgrading. Now, if we're talking climb
>numbers, the equation is much different and HP makes a bigger
>difference. Good for a later post.
> James Baldwin
>
>SportAV8R(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
>
>>
>>Bill- best of luck with the new engine.
>>
>>I did the belchfire upgrade to mine after a bad cam & followers episode,
>>
>>
>but only went to 8.5:1, for a nominal 160 hp. Now I get to buy premium
>mogas at home and 100LL while on the road (nobody sells premium mogas at
>FBO's) for an additional 10 hp, which has made little if any perceptible
>difference in performance (I'm still limited to 2600 rpm by the Sensenich
>engineering marvel on the nose and get 2280 static rpm at 1050 MSL
>typically, will get even less if I coarsen the pitch as has been recommended
>to avoid overspeeding in cruise!) Would I do it again if I had it to do
>over? NO WAY! Not for the privilege of paying 20 cents per gallon more for
>hi-test when regular used to do. Also, I heard that 160hp was as high as
>one ought to push the O-320-E2D due to the small front main bearing (from an
>O-290; gee, thanks, Lycoming...) so you might be in relatively uncharted
>territory.
>
>
>>Hope your mileage varies considerably from mine.
>>
>>-Stormy / 6-A, 386 hrs.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Corrosion Protection in the UK |
Tim Butterworth wrote:
>
>Hi,
>
>I seem to get 2 conflicting stories as to whether I need to apply corrosion protection
to an RV9A as I build it in the UK. Some say that given the high quality
of the material and that it will be hangared, it is not necessary; other say
that the weather in the UK is so much more damp and humid that it will be corroded
within 3 years if I don't irrespective of it is hangared.
>
>Is there a consensus view?
>
>Thanks
>
>Tim
>
Wet won't kill the AL. Wet salt air will be a bit worse. To get a proper
handle on how AL will survive in your environment, seek out some AL
factory planes that were built shortly after WW-II & have lived out
their lives in the UK. There are lots of all-AL planes in the US that
are over 50 years old. None that I've seen have any interior corrosion
protection (primer) applied to the alclad sheet parts. (Obviously,
non-alclad parts need to be protected.)
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: >Re: Tailwheel Chain Tension |
I had too much slack in my tailwheel chains and the steering was very sloppy.
I too found chain with a different link length and that fixed my problem.
You might get just the right length with the chains you have; just try to get
1/4" or so sag in the chains. You don't want tension on them when the plane is
loaded - that will wear out the holes in the steering arms.
If you have no tailwheel time you should get some time in a Citabria, Champ,
etc., with an instructor, before you start taxi testing !!! Too many times a
taxi test becomes a flight and sometimes a catastrophie. You have too much at
stake to take that chance.
Keep on and I know you'll feel it was worth all the time.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Torquing brass brake fittings |
Cy:
I am using some Bakerseal on the fitting threads, sparingly, as you
say. I tighten the fitting as much as I can using my fingers and then
use a wrench to twist it around to the right position.
However, I wasn't clear enough in my original post. What I really want
to know about is tightening the brass "nut" that screws on to the
fitting. Do you have any advice on that?
qcbccgalley wrote:
>
> Torquing tubing fittings is overkill. Clocking or the pointing of the
> fitting is more important. Of course you don't want it to leak so use pipe
> dope on the threads NOT tape. Many pipe dopes have powdered Teflon in them
> to make turning easier and this then makes any torquing spec wrong. The
> also has "crazy glue" to maintain the "clocking" without over tightening.
> Keep the dope back of the first thread so it doesn't get into the system.
>>I am installing my bake lines. I can find no torque specifications for
>>the brass, high pressure fittings (the ones that take the high pressure
>>plastic tubing on an RV dual brake system).
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, Landing gear
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Hultzapple" <thultzap(at)rochester.rr.com> |
Today I installed the wings on my RV8A. I did all measurements according to
the plans with plumb lines, measurements from tail to wing tips, incidence ,
etc. All came out well. However, when I started fitting the bottom wing skin
to the bottom skin of the fuselage, there seems to be interference under the
rear spar fittings that extend from the fuselage (quickbuild). In other
words, when I push up on the bottom skin of the fuselage that screws to the
first wing rib, it is held down about one eighth to three sixteenths of an
inch by the rear spar attachment. I double checked the incidence and it is
right on. Am I missing something or is this nothing to worry about? I have
enough edge distance from the 5/16 attach bolt to file some material from
the spar attachment fittings, but it would be difficult especially because
it is a quickbuild. Has anyone else seen this problem?
Ted
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fixing Tank Leaks |
Dwight;
I have used Pro-Seal from the outside and had good results with it. A
neighbor had a Toyota with a matchstem size hole in the bottom of the tank. I
used
emery cloth to sand it, With fuel running out, and applied pro-Seal liberally.
I had to pat the Pro-Seal back up as it would form a bubble with the weight
of the fuel. After 15-20 minutes it set up enough to stay in place and
stopped the leak. He drove the car for several more years. I have done the same
on
my wifes antique car and it worked OK.
I have fixed RV tank leaks by sanding with #40 grit and wash with MEK,then
apply Pro-Seal liberally. It will work.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Gyro & DG mounting mounting |
Richard,
You didn't say if yours is a tip-up or slider. Mine is a slider. I made
holes big enough to clear the vacuum lines and fittings to the back of the
instruments. I can remove the longer of the two only by removing the fittings
out
of the back, but that is pretty easy. I have seen others cut out a lot more
material than I thought was necessary.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (Taxi testing and waiting for FAA registration)
In a message dated 6/12/04 6:28:02 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
rsuffoletto(at)hotmail.com writes:
>
>
>
>
> I am mounting a DG Gyro in my 7A panel and they are a bit too long to fit
> properly. I was not able to find anything in the archives on this so can
> someone tell me how they solved the interference problem or direct me to someone's
> web site where there may be pictures posted. I realize I can cut into the
> rear panel but would like to hear what others have done.
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | need 12" N-numbers for flight into Canada? |
Do I really need 12" N-numbers for flight into Canada? The reason I ask is
because of something specified in the document:
STANDARDISED VALIDATION OF A SPECIAL AIRWORTHINESS CERTIFICATE -
EXPERIMENTAL, FOR THE PURPOSE OF OPERATING A UNITED STATES - REGISTERED
AMATEUR-BUILT AIRCRAFT IN CANADIAN AIRSPACE
(jeez, what a long title) That's a document that I'm required to have with
me, and it says:
"3. the nationality and registration marks assigned to the aircraft by the
Federal Aviation Administration shall be displayed on the aircraft in
accordance with the requirements of the United States;"
Well, the requirements of the US...that's 3" numbers. I'm not clear on
whether that means I can get by with 3" numbers or whether I'll need 12"
numbers...anybody know the real deal?
Thanks in advance,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "qcbccgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: need 12" N-numbers for flight into Canada? |
12" are need to got thru a ADIZ. The border into Mexico requires them. The
Canadian border does not. Probably need them if you fly into the country
from a Caribbean Island.
I am surprised that the Namby-Pamby ADIZ covering the cowards in DC don't
require the large numbers. On second thought they probably do but I luckily
do not have to fly into DC. I was sure glad it was stupidity last week in DC
or we would all be flying mode S VFR flight plans.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: RV-List: need 12" N-numbers for flight into Canada?
>
> Do I really need 12" N-numbers for flight into Canada? The reason I ask
is
> because of something specified in the document:
>
> STANDARDISED VALIDATION OF A SPECIAL AIRWORTHINESS CERTIFICATE -
> EXPERIMENTAL, FOR THE PURPOSE OF OPERATING A UNITED STATES - REGISTERED
> AMATEUR-BUILT AIRCRAFT IN CANADIAN AIRSPACE
>
> (jeez, what a long title) That's a document that I'm required to have with
> me, and it says:
>
> "3. the nationality and registration marks assigned to the aircraft by the
> Federal Aviation Administration shall be displayed on the aircraft in
> accordance with the requirements of the United States;"
>
> Well, the requirements of the US...that's 3" numbers. I'm not clear on
> whether that means I can get by with 3" numbers or whether I'll need 12"
> numbers...anybody know the real deal?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Isler" <jlisler(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Best way to mount Dynon |
What is the most popular method to mount a Dynon D-10A in an instrument
panel? Since the face of my radios (KY-97A and KT-76A) stick out the front
of my panel I am leaning toward the 3.125" hole in the panel. I do have the
flush mount bracket on order so it is an option to mount it that way also.
Which way looks best? What's your opinion?
Jerry Isler
RV4 # 1070
Donalsonville, GA.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Daniels <jwdanie(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Best way to mount Dynon |
> Which way looks best? What's your opinion?
Definitely flush mount. Otherwise it looks like an afterthought or a
shortcut. Use the Dynon flush mount or better yet the bracket from
Todd: http://www.rvwoody.com/Rev2Information.html
Jim Daniels
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)direcpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: need 12" N-numbers for flight into Canada? |
I have gone in and out a couple of time with my 3" N numbers. I really
believe the 12 inchers are only required to cross the ADIZ
Gary
Dan Checkoway wrote:
>
>Do I really need 12" N-numbers for flight into Canada? The reason I ask is
>because of something specified in the document:
>
>STANDARDISED VALIDATION OF A SPECIAL AIRWORTHINESS CERTIFICATE -
>EXPERIMENTAL, FOR THE PURPOSE OF OPERATING A UNITED STATES - REGISTERED
>AMATEUR-BUILT AIRCRAFT IN CANADIAN AIRSPACE
>
>(jeez, what a long title) That's a document that I'm required to have with
>me, and it says:
>
>"3. the nationality and registration marks assigned to the aircraft by the
>Federal Aviation Administration shall be displayed on the aircraft in
>accordance with the requirements of the United States;"
>
>Well, the requirements of the US...that's 3" numbers. I'm not clear on
>whether that means I can get by with 3" numbers or whether I'll need 12"
>numbers...anybody know the real deal?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | EIS plus what engine instrumentation? |
-8, 8A Drivers,
I'm looking for good engine instrument solutions to accompany a Grand Rapids
EIS for the right third of my -8 panel. If you have an EIS plus instrument
combination you like and would recommend, I welcome your input. Thanks.
Jack Blomgren
-8 80%
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jordan Grant" <gra9933(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Best way to mount Dynon |
I did the regular surface mount through the 3 1/2" hole.
Reasons:
1: I can change to another gyro if I want to, or move the Dynon to one of
the other standard holes. (So far, I don't want to...)
2: Clearance behind the panel is tight. (In my RV-6 slider) If you use the
flush mount, its even worse - probably would necessitate (another) big
cutout in the bulkhead behind the panel. And if you screwed up like me and
cut the mounting hole right in front of the left panel support rib, you're
in even bigger trouble.
3: I think it looks just fine that way.
Jordan Grant
RV-6 FWF/painting?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Daniels
Subject: Re: RV-List: Best way to mount Dynon
> Which way looks best? What's your opinion?
Definitely flush mount. Otherwise it looks like an afterthought or a
shortcut. Use the Dynon flush mount or better yet the bracket from
Todd: http://www.rvwoody.com/Rev2Information.html
Jim Daniels
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Best way to mount Dynon |
Jerry,
While I think the flush installation looks cleanest by far, there are some
advantages to having it "stick out."
1. Simplify the installation. Cut your 3.125" hole if you haven't already,
drill the standard 4-screw pattern, slide it in, install the nuts, done.
2. When you're in turbulence and you're trying to use the menu buttons, it
can be a pain. Since mine sticks out, I rest one or two fingers on the top
"ledge" and it helps me to stabilize my hand if it's gettin' wobbly up
there.
Again, I think flush looks best, but if you're trying to rationalize the
easy way out, there are some advantages.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Isler" <jlisler(at)alltel.net>
Subject: RV-List: Best way to mount Dynon
>
> What is the most popular method to mount a Dynon D-10A in an instrument
> panel? Since the face of my radios (KY-97A and KT-76A) stick out the front
> of my panel I am leaning toward the 3.125" hole in the panel. I do have
the
> flush mount bracket on order so it is an option to mount it that way also.
> Which way looks best? What's your opinion?
>
> Jerry Isler
> RV4 # 1070
> Donalsonville, GA.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Hyde" <nauga(at)brick.net> |
| Subject: | re: EIS plus what engine instrumentation? |
> If you have an EIS plus instrument
> combination you like and would recommend...
I've got a -4, not an -8, but I've got an EIS and love
it. I've got (optional) fuel flow, manifold pressure,
and current (ammeter) sensors in the aux inputs.
Only other sort of engine-related instrumentation I
have are fuel gauges, although these could be incorporated
in the EIS as well.
By the way, 4-channel EGT and CHT have been a huge
help in troubleshooting engine and cooling problems
(which turned out to be mostly non-existant). Grand Rapids
is also great to deal with, and very helpful.
Dave Hyde
nauga(at)brick.net
RV-4 in flight test, EAA tech counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "GMC" <gmcnutt(at)uniserve.com> |
| Subject: | need 12" N-numbers for flight into Canada? |
Subject: RV-List: need 12" N-numbers for flight into Canada?
Hi Dan
The short answer is "NO".
The long answer is that the bureaucrats have screwed up our regulations so
badly that nobody really knows exactly what is required for this simple item
anymore.
George in Langley
(6 inch numbering)
-------------------
Do I really need 12" N-numbers for flight into Canada? The reason I ask is
because of something specified in the document:
STANDARDISED VALIDATION OF A SPECIAL AIRWORTHINESS CERTIFICATE -
EXPERIMENTAL, FOR THE PURPOSE OF OPERATING A UNITED STATES - REGISTERED
AMATEUR-BUILT AIRCRAFT IN CANADIAN AIRSPACE
(jeez, what a long title) That's a document that I'm required to have with
me, and it says:
"3. the nationality and registration marks assigned to the aircraft by the
Federal Aviation Administration shall be displayed on the aircraft in
accordance with the requirements of the United States;"
Well, the requirements of the US...that's 3" numbers. I'm not clear on
whether that means I can get by with 3" numbers or whether I'll need 12"
numbers...anybody know the real deal?
Thanks in advance,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
---
Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "greg" <greg(at)itmack.com> |
| Subject: | platenut problem |
I'm trying to mount the electric trim and the screws won't go into the platenuts
and I'm really laying into them and starting to bur the heads. Also I'm worried
about stretching the skin with all the force I'm putting onto them.
Is there any trick I'm missing or do I need to run a tap through the platenuts?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: platenut problem |
----- Original Message -----
From: "greg" <greg(at)itmack.com>
Subject: RV-List: platenut problem
>
> I'm trying to mount the electric trim and the screws won't go into the
platenuts and I'm really laying into them and starting to bur the heads.
Also I'm worried about stretching the skin with all the force I'm putting
onto them.
>
> Is there any trick I'm missing or do I need to run a tap through the
platenuts?
I woudn't tap 'em. First, make sure you're using the right size screws.
Second, rub some wax, soap, or Boe-lube (a great product sold by aviation
supply houses)on the screw threads as a lubricant.
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: need 12" N-numbers for flight into Canada? |
>
>Do I really need 12" N-numbers for flight into Canada? The reason I ask is
>because of something specified in the document:
>
>STANDARDISED VALIDATION OF A SPECIAL AIRWORTHINESS CERTIFICATE -
>EXPERIMENTAL, FOR THE PURPOSE OF OPERATING A UNITED STATES - REGISTERED
>AMATEUR-BUILT AIRCRAFT IN CANADIAN AIRSPACE
>
>(jeez, what a long title) That's a document that I'm required to have with
>me, and it says:
>
>"3. the nationality and registration marks assigned to the aircraft by the
>Federal Aviation Administration shall be displayed on the aircraft in
>accordance with the requirements of the United States;"
>
>Well, the requirements of the US...that's 3" numbers. I'm not clear on
>whether that means I can get by with 3" numbers or whether I'll need 12"
>numbers...anybody know the real deal?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D
>http://www.rvproject.com
Dan,
The applicable Canadian Aviation Regulation is CAR 202.01 (1)
202.01 (1) Subject to subsection (2), no person shall operate an
aircraft in Canada unless its marks are visible and are displayed
(a) in the case of a Canadian aircraft, in accordance with the
requirements of the Aircraft Marking and Registration Standards; and
(b) in the case of an aircraft registered in a foreign state, in
accordance with the laws of that foreign state.
Thus you only need to meet the US requirements, not the Canadian ones.
<http://www.tc.gc.ca/aviation/REGSERV/CARAC/CARS/cars/202e.htm#202_01>
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ellis" <rv8builder(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: platenut problem |
I had a couple of nutplates like yours and I ended up replacing them with
"floating" nutplates. Look under Aircraft Spruce part number F5000-08. The
nut part of this device floats and the threads of the screw are much easier
to engage.
Dale
----- Original Message -----
From: "greg" <greg(at)itmack.com>
Subject: RV-List: platenut problem
>
> I'm trying to mount the electric trim and the screws won't go into the
platenuts and I'm really laying into them and starting to bur the heads.
Also I'm worried about stretching the skin with all the force I'm putting
onto them.
>
> Is there any trick I'm missing or do I need to run a tap through the
platenuts?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Bell" <DBell(at)ManisteeNational.com> |
Thanks for the comments guys, Bill you did come in light.
Looking forward to seeing some of you soon after flight testing
Doug Bell
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Boeing Quick Change Chuck |
| From: | "" <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com> |
All,
Does anyone out there know anything about "Boeing Quick Change Drill Chucks"?
I bought a real nice used Dotco drill with this chuck, but I am a little confused.
1) Where do you get bits for it (it is not a hex-style quick change)?
2) How can you remove the chuck (it does not have an allen screw in the bottom)?
3) What chucks do the Sioux use and can you buy them separately?
I would appreciate any help anyone can provide. Contact me off list if desired.
Thanks,
Scott
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BrownTool(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Boeing Quick Change Chuck |
In a message dated 6/13/2004 9:19:33 PM Central Standard Time,
tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com writes:
All,
Does anyone out there know anything about "Boeing Quick Change Drill Chucks"?
I bought a real nice used Dotco drill with this chuck, but I am a little
confused.
1) Where do you get bits for it (it is not a hex-style quick change)?
2) How can you remove the chuck (it does not have an allen screw in the
bottom)?
3) What chucks do the Sioux use and can you buy them separately?
I would appreciate any help anyone can provide. Contact me off list if
desired.
Thanks,
Scott
Scott,
We can special order the Boeing Quick Change Drill Bits for you, but you will
find they are extremely expensive. You will probably be better off and much
happier removing the Boeing Style Quick Change Chuck from your Dotco Drill and
installing a Jacobs standard or keyless chuck. The Boeing Quick Change system
has been around for well over 15 years now, and there is a reason it has not
migrated to the rest of the industry including the home-built market ---- it
is extremely expensive! Boeing and all of the other big manufacturers are
willing to pay the cost of the system beacause it shaves thousands of man hours
from an aircraft assembly. On smaller aircraft, or projects, the Boeing Quick
Change System does not make economic sense. The cost of Boeing Style Quick
Change Drills is 3-4 times the cost of standard drills.
If you will call me, I will be glad to walk you through removing the chuck.
Have a pair of vise grip pliers, a vise, and a mallet ready when you call. The
Boeing Chuck you have on your drill and the normal Jacobs Chucks all feature
3/8-24 internal threads and are interchangeable from drill to drill.
Hope I have helped.
Michael Brown
Brown Aviation Tool Supply Co.
3801 S. Meridian Ave.
Oklahoma City, OK 73119
USA
1-800-587-3883
405-688-6888
Fax 405-688-6555
browntool(at)aol.com
www.browntool.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314(at)earthlink.net> |
parts stores, but haven't ben able to find it. Can any one suggest a
source?
Thanks,
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, Landing gear
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel White" <whited(at)rpi.edu> |
| Subject: | Advice for apartment dwelling wannabe builder? |
Thanks for all the input. You've all convinced me that it's definitely
possible to do the build. One of my biggest concerns, beyond the logistics
of building in my apartment, was finishing the tail kit and not being able
to proceed any further until I move. I think I'll first attend the SportAir
RV assembly workshop at the end of October, then order the empennage. Then
when I finish there'll only be less than a year left on my lease, and I can
spend that time studying the plans and dreaming up far too expensive glass
panels.
Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Best way to mount Dynon |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Isler" <jlisler(at)alltel.net>
Subject: RV-List: Best way to mount Dynon
>
> What is the most popular method to mount a Dynon D-10A in an instrument
> panel? Since the face of my radios (KY-97A and KT-76A) stick out the front
> of my panel I am leaning toward the 3.125" hole in the panel. I do have
the
> flush mount bracket on order so it is an option to mount it that way also.
> Which way looks best? What's your opinion?
>
> Jerry Isler
> RV4 # 1070
> Donalsonville, GA.
((((((((((())))))))))))))
I mounted my Dynon first with the hole and it protruded out. I let it be
for a while and grow on me for a few weeks. I looked at the rest of my
panel, except for the radio stack, and they were all flush with the panel
front. I thought it could look better. It was a tight fit with the
subpanel even mounted as it was. To eliminate chafing, the subpanel should
be cutout anyway. So........
I then used the perfect hole for the Dynon to align the needed drilling for
mounting the recessed bracket screw holes. It takes some careful
filing/cutting/filing but it now looks better in my opinion with it
recessed. The only thing protruding out now is my Garmin radio stack. I
will live with that. I had to cut a hole in the subpanel for the
Dynon-needed feeds. But that really does not weaken the plane that much.
Nothing compared to the size of the hole required for the radio stack.
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
----- Original Message -----
| From: | "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314(at)earthlink.net> |
>
> parts stores, but haven't ben able to find it. Can any one suggest a
> source?
>
> Thanks,
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A, Landing gear
(((((((((())))))))))))
I just bought some at Wicks Aircraft.
http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_cat.php/subid=1813/index.html
Larry in Indiana, RV7 tipup
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: platenut problem |
----- Original Message -----
From: "greg" <greg(at)itmack.com>
Subject: RV-List: platenut problem
>
> I'm trying to mount the electric trim and the screws won't go into the
platenuts and I'm really laying into them and starting to bur the heads.
Also I'm worried about stretching the skin with all the force I'm putting
onto them.
>
> Is there any trick I'm missing or do I need to run a tap through the
platenuts?
(((((((((((()))))))))))))
You should try first enlarging your original hole that is in front of the
threads in the nutplate to open up the path for the screw to enter into the
nutplate. Do this carefully so when your drill bit just meets the nutplate
it does not bite into it. Sometimes it just an alignment problem when the
screw will not screw into the nutplate. Then as another lister pointed out,
make sure you are using the right size screw. These things can look very
similar. When you have the right size screw, use some lubricant on it when
putting it in. As a second to last resort, you could run a tap through it.
But then if you do that, you should use some locktite on the screw when you
finally insert it. Medium strength because you might want to get it back
out. If all that fails, drill off the nutplate and install a new one.
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "MSices" <msices(at)core.com> |
| Subject: | Boeing Quick Change Chuck |
I have thousands of boing qc chuck bits which I originally bought on ebay.
You used to be able get them cheap on Ebay from user "reliabletools."
Mike Sices
RV8 339JA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
BrownTool(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Boeing Quick Change Chuck
In a message dated 6/13/2004 9:19:33 PM Central Standard Time,
tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com writes:
All,
Does anyone out there know anything about "Boeing Quick Change Drill
Chucks"?
I bought a real nice used Dotco drill with this chuck, but I am a little
confused.
1) Where do you get bits for it (it is not a hex-style quick change)?
2) How can you remove the chuck (it does not have an allen screw in the
bottom)?
3) What chucks do the Sioux use and can you buy them separately?
I would appreciate any help anyone can provide. Contact me off list if
desired.
Thanks,
Scott
Scott,
We can special order the Boeing Quick Change Drill Bits for you, but you
will
find they are extremely expensive. You will probably be better off and much
happier removing the Boeing Style Quick Change Chuck from your Dotco Drill
and
installing a Jacobs standard or keyless chuck. The Boeing Quick Change
system
has been around for well over 15 years now, and there is a reason it has not
migrated to the rest of the industry including the home-built market ---- it
is extremely expensive! Boeing and all of the other big manufacturers are
willing to pay the cost of the system beacause it shaves thousands of man
hours
from an aircraft assembly. On smaller aircraft, or projects, the Boeing
Quick
Change System does not make economic sense. The cost of Boeing Style Quick
Change Drills is 3-4 times the cost of standard drills.
If you will call me, I will be glad to walk you through removing the chuck.
Have a pair of vise grip pliers, a vise, and a mallet ready when you call.
The
Boeing Chuck you have on your drill and the normal Jacobs Chucks all feature
3/8-24 internal threads and are interchangeable from drill to drill.
Hope I have helped.
Michael Brown
Brown Aviation Tool Supply Co.
3801 S. Meridian Ave.
Oklahoma City, OK 73119
USA
1-800-587-3883
405-688-6888
Fax 405-688-6555
browntool(at)aol.com
www.browntool.com
---
Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)direcpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: platenut problem |
Are you using the proper screw size?
Is the platenut the proper size for the intended screw?
Is the platenut threaded?
I have found a couple of odd sized platenuts in the bags. I try and
check to make sure that when I'm installing #8 platenuts that I don't
have a couple of 6's mixed in. It happens. I have also run into the rare
unthreaded platenut.
Z
greg wrote:
>
>I'm trying to mount the electric trim and the screws won't go into the platenuts
and I'm really laying into them and starting to bur the heads. Also I'm worried
about stretching the skin with all the force I'm putting onto them.
>
>Is there any trick I'm missing or do I need to run a tap through the platenuts?
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Myers <jmyers(at)powernet.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Boeing Quick Change Chuck |
Scott, Cleaveland tool has a quick change chuck that I think they call a
Boeing chuck or it is a copy of same. You might want to check with
them. They are kind of expensive. It is a bit of a choker to pay almost
as much for the chuck and male heads as you do for the drill. I have one
on my Sioux and have really enjoyed it. My Sioux came with a Jacobs that I
took off and put on a quick change adapter for those odd size bits that you
might need on occasion. The Quick change chuck just screws on like the
Jacobs.
Hope that helps.
John
At 09:18 PM 6/13/2004, you wrote:
>
>
>All,
>
>Does anyone out there know anything about "Boeing Quick Change Drill
>Chucks"? I bought a real nice used Dotco drill with this chuck, but I am
>a little confused.
>
>1) Where do you get bits for it (it is not a hex-style quick change)?
>
>2) How can you remove the chuck (it does not have an allen screw in
>the bottom)?
>
>3) What chucks do the Sioux use and can you buy them separately?
>
>I would appreciate any help anyone can provide. Contact me off list if
>desired.
>
>Thanks,
>Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fixing Tank Leaks |
Also apply what would be the equivalent of a patch over the hole with a
piece of metal, works great.
>
>Dwight;
>I have used Pro-Seal from the outside and had good results with it. A
>neighbor had a Toyota with a matchstem size hole in the bottom of the
>tank. I used
>emery cloth to sand it, With fuel running out, and applied pro-Seal
>liberally.
> I had to pat the Pro-Seal back up as it would form a bubble with the weight
>of the fuel. After 15-20 minutes it set up enough to stay in place and
>stopped the leak. He drove the car for several more years. I have done
>the same on
>my wifes antique car and it worked OK.
>I have fixed RV tank leaks by sanding with #40 grit and wash with MEK,then
>apply Pro-Seal liberally. It will work.
>
>
>Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
>A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
>Charleston,Arkansas
>Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net (Chris Brooks) |
| Subject: | Re: platenut problem |
Go to the hardware store and get a allen socket head screw. you can run
it in to loosen the platenut a little without pushing in on it, or
stripping it out.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "qcbccgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Last time I looked I saw it at an autoparts store.
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
| From: | "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314(at)earthlink.net> |
>
> parts stores, but haven't ben able to find it. Can any one suggest a
> source?
>
> Thanks,
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A, Landing gear
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
Loctite 565 is available here:
http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?9412
http://robertstool.com:8091/index.pl/loc
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
| From: | "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314(at)earthlink.net> |
>
> parts stores, but haven't ben able to find it. Can any one suggest a
> source?
>
> Thanks,
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A, Landing gear
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Eastham <eastham(at)netapp.com> |
| Subject: | Re: platenut problem |
I received the wrong size platenuts in my empennage kit and did not
realize it until the elevator was closed. Mine were too big, though.
I yelled at van's to check their stock, but got the feeling I was
being ignored.
Paul
http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
>
> I'm trying to mount the electric trim and the screws won't go into the platenuts
and I'm really laying into them and starting to bur the heads. Also I'm worried
about stretching the skin with all the force I'm putting onto them.
>
> Is there any trick I'm missing or do I need to run a tap through the platenuts?
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: platenut problem |
| From: | tacaruth(at)ralcorp.com |
06/14/2004 10:34:07 AM
Also, check to make sure the platenuts are threaded. I've had enough
un-threaded ones that I check every one before I rivet it on. There will
be LOTS of platenuts to follow.
Tom,
RV-7A, still working on canopy
"Dale Ellis"
To
Sent by:
owner-rv-list-ser cc
ver(at)matronics.com
Subject
Re: RV-List: platenut problem
06/13/2004 09:01
PM
Please respond to
rv-list@matronics
.com
I had a couple of nutplates like yours and I ended up replacing them with
"floating" nutplates. Look under Aircraft Spruce part number F5000-08.
The
nut part of this device floats and the threads of the screw are much easier
to engage.
Dale
----- Original Message -----
From: "greg" <greg(at)itmack.com>
Subject: RV-List: platenut problem
>
> I'm trying to mount the electric trim and the screws won't go into the
platenuts and I'm really laying into them and starting to bur the heads.
Also I'm worried about stretching the skin with all the force I'm putting
onto them.
>
> Is there any trick I'm missing or do I need to run a tap through the
platenuts?
>
>
If you are not the intended addressee indicated in this message (or
responsible for delivery of the message to such person), you may not copy
message and kindly notify the sender by reply email. Please advise
immediately if you or your employer do not consent to internet email for
messages of this kind.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Advice for apartment dwelling wannabe builder? |
Hi Dan;
Don't limit yourself to just working on a tail kit. If you press on with the
"slow-build" wing and fuselage kits (for most any model RV) you will find
there are lot of small sub assemblies and parts preparation jobs that you
can tackle in quite confined spaces and get out of the way in preparation
for the day when you do have access to the space needed for final assembly.
Straightening and prepping wing ribs, blind nuts on the spars, that sort of
thing. Have a look at Sam Buchanan's web site for his approach to this.
You could even assemble a prepunched fuselage in stages, do the match
drilling, then take it apart and do the deburring & dimpling and priming,
etc. that is needed in any case and then pack the parts away for later use.
Ailerons and flaps are reasonable "small apartment" jobs, too. Lots of guys
get their airplanes on the gear and then start thinking instrument panel for
months. Perhaps spend that time now and, with suitable attention to behind
panel structure considerations, cut and wire your panel while you are still
in your apartment. Its another reasonable kitchen table size project.
Jim Oke
RV-3, RV-6A
Winnipeg, MB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Daniel White" <whited(at)rpi.edu>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Advice for apartment dwelling wannabe builder?
>
> Thanks for all the input. You've all convinced me that it's definitely
> possible to do the build. One of my biggest concerns, beyond the
logistics
> of building in my apartment, was finishing the tail kit and not being able
> to proceed any further until I move. I think I'll first attend the
SportAir
> RV assembly workshop at the end of October, then order the empennage.
Then
> when I finish there'll only be less than a year left on my lease, and I
can
> spend that time studying the plans and dreaming up far too expensive glass
> panels.
>
> Dan
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
| Subject: | Countersunk Tinnerman washers |
I have discovered that my drawer for #8 countersunk washers contains washers
with two OD's. One is the common 9/16" OD (.56") and the others are 1/2 "
OD (.500"). I have a need for
about 100 of the washers with the smaller OD ( another story, don't ask) but
I can't locate the source. I have checked many of the usual hardware
sources to no avail. A source must exist since I have some. Can anyone
tell me where to get #8 countersunk Tinnerman washers with an OD of 1/2"
(.500")?
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Ken Harrill
RV-6,
325+ hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Greasing rod end bearings |
Hi,
What's the procedure for keeping the rod end bearings
well lubricated? They come with a bit of grease on
them, but should I try to pack them more? How often
do they need to be either re-greased or replaced?
Thanks,
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: platenut problem |
| From: | tacaruth(at)ralcorp.com |
06/14/2004 03:14:46 PM
Also, check to make sure the platenuts are threaded. I've had enough
un-threaded ones that I check every one before I rivet it on. There will
be LOTS of platenuts to follow.
Tom,
RV-7A, still working on canopy
"Dale Ellis"
To
Sent by:
owner-rv-list-ser cc
ver(at)matronics.com
Subject
Re: RV-List: platenut problem
06/13/2004 09:01
PM
Please respond to
rv-list@matronics
.com
I had a couple of nutplates like yours and I ended up replacing them with
"floating" nutplates. Look under Aircraft Spruce part number F5000-08.
The
nut part of this device floats and the threads of the screw are much easier
to engage.
Dale
----- Original Message -----
From: "greg" <greg(at)itmack.com>
Subject: RV-List: platenut problem
>
> I'm trying to mount the electric trim and the screws won't go into the
platenuts and I'm really laying into them and starting to bur the heads.
Also I'm worried about stretching the skin with all the force I'm putting
onto them.
>
> Is there any trick I'm missing or do I need to run a tap through the
platenuts?
>
>
If you are not the intended addressee indicated in this message (or
responsible for delivery of the message to such person), you may not copy
message and kindly notify the sender by reply email. Please advise
immediately if you or your employer do not consent to internet email for
messages of this kind.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | platenut problem |
| From: | "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" <F.vanderHulst(at)ucol.ac.nz> |
>
> I'm trying to mount the electric trim and the screws won't go into the
platenuts and I'm really laying into them and starting to bur the heads.
Also I'm worried about stretching the skin with all the force I'm
putting onto them.
Well done... you stopped soon enough. A bit more force and you'd
probably break the screw (voice of experience :-( )
> Is there any trick I'm missing or do I need to run a tap through the
platenuts?
From http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/bunnys-guide/rv/bunny/hs_vs.htm:
The #6 nutplates are very tight... I broke one screw trying to screw it
in. And then worried for several years (no, really!) what to do about
it. After that time had gone by, it was no big deal. By then, I had
plenty of practice at drilling out rivets. So I drilled out the rivets
holding the platenut with the broken screw, and replaced the platenut.
Rick Fogerson suggested to the RV-list: Rather than
ream them out, take some of the oval-ness out. Before I installed
nutplates, I put them in a vice and tried a screw in them. If they were
so tight I couldn't get the screw in without slipping, I took a vice
grip and carefully made the hole slightly more round by squeezing it
until the screw was manageable but still tight. If you can still get to
the end of the installed nutplate, you can try it but take it easy.
Frank
Learn real skills for the real world - Apply online
at http://www.ucol.ac.nz or call 0800 GO UCOL
(0800 46 8265) or txt free 3388 for more information
and make a good move to UCOL Universal College of
Learning.
Enrol with a public institute and be certain of your
future
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Advice for apartment dwelling wannabe builder? |
| From: | "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" <F.vanderHulst(at)ucol.ac.nz> |
There's a lot of work that can be done on the wing kit before you
actually assemble them... Building spars, bellcrank assemblies, fuel
tanks, flaps, and ailerons. Fluting and deburring ribs. See
http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/bunnys-guide/rv/log/log97.htm
Frank
Then when I finish there'll only be less than a year left on my lease,
and I can spend that time studying the plans and dreaming up far too
expensive glass panels.
Dan
Learn real skills for the real world - Apply online
at http://www.ucol.ac.nz or call 0800 GO UCOL
(0800 46 8265) or txt free 3388 for more information
and make a good move to UCOL Universal College of
Learning.
Enrol with a public institute and be certain of your
future
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Countersunk Tinnerman Washers |
I have prdered for years from : PSA Enterprises .Lakeland , Florida. Their
toll free order number is : 800-922-4491 I talked to Bob and he has
always been very helpful.
I used stainless screws and tinnerman washers in manufacturing landing lights.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darwin Barrie" <ktlkrn(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: platenut problem |
Hi Greg,
I made a little jig and "season" all nutplates before installation. Seems even
more important the smaller the nut plate.
I use the jig and the appropriate size Allen screw. I have 2" sections of Allen
wrenches for all of the various screws that I chuck up in the cordless drill.
This eliminates messing up the heads of Phillips screws. I put a drop of oil
on the screw and run it through the nutplate. Good to go.
There is a possibility you got a couple of bad ones. Kinda like that bag of peanuts
at the ball game!!
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darwin Barrie" <ktlkrn(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Regarding numbers |
Probably a little on the technical side but what constitutes a 12" number. For
example my neighbor has a beautiful RV8 with the base numerals at 9". After he
shadowed them (outlined, highlighted whatever) they are about 13."
Does this cover the 12" rule when required? Just thinking ahead as I finalize the
paint scheme.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Medema" <dmedema(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Traveling Tool Kit |
Hi all,
Father's day is here and I told my family I would come up with
a list of tools to make up a tool kit I would keep in the plane.
I know lot's of you keep some tools with you, so let's hit the
keyboards and either email me or to the list with a list of
"gotta have" or "sure wish I woulda had" tools that would make
up a small traveling tool kit.
Thanks,
Doug Medema RV-6A N276DM.
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Greasing rod end bearings |
In a message dated 6/14/2004 11:22:33 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch writes:
What's the procedure for keeping the rod end bearings
well lubricated? They come with a bit of grease on
them, but should I try to pack them more? How often
do they need to be either re-greased or replaced?
==========================
Most light duty types, like the ones we use, are sealed with lifetime grease
inside. For our applications, I would guess that the existing lubrication
would probably last the life of your airframe, but they might benefit
periodically from a little 30W oil to replace what separates from the grease over
time. They are really not very highly stressed items.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 701 hrs; last trip, Sedona)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Traveling Tool Kit |
> "gotta have" or "sure wish I woulda had" tools that would make
> up a small traveling tool kit.
My kit is pretty simple and is still being developed over time. I bring it
everywhere I go, regardless of how far I'm travelling.
- small first aid kit
- spare screws, washers, and nuts of all sizes
- spare fuses of all ratings used
- cotter pins of various sizes
- about 4' of .032" safety wire
- tie wraps
- 1x new UREM37BY spark plug
- copper crush washers for spark plugs
- 4x automotive plugs
- duct tape
- aluminum tape
- electrical tape
- masking tape
- heat wrap tape
- silicone tape
- sharpie marker
- small wire cutters
- Leatherman tool
- small retractable razor
- screwdrivers:
- 1 ratcheting w/bits
- 1 stubby Phillips
- 1 very small Phillips
- 1 very small flat head
- needle nose pliers
- 1/4" drive ratchet & sockets (1/4" thru 1/2")
- 1/4", 3/8", & 7/16" open end wrenches
- 5/16" nut driver
- small crescent wrench
- small flashlight
- fingerless gloves w/integrated lights
- rags
- oil spout adapter
- disposable paper funnels
- plastic cup
- small plastic part bin
The whole thing maybe weighs 5 pounds and lives in a small duffel bag that I
keep behind my seat.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "qcbccgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Traveling Tool Kit |
Note you have two types of plugs but not a plug wrench for either.
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Traveling Tool Kit
>
> > "gotta have" or "sure wish I woulda had" tools that would make
> > up a small traveling tool kit.
>
> My kit is pretty simple and is still being developed over time. I bring
it
> everywhere I go, regardless of how far I'm travelling.
>
> - small first aid kit
> - spare screws, washers, and nuts of all sizes
> - spare fuses of all ratings used
> - cotter pins of various sizes
> - about 4' of .032" safety wire
> - tie wraps
> - 1x new UREM37BY spark plug
> - copper crush washers for spark plugs
> - 4x automotive plugs
> - duct tape
> - aluminum tape
> - electrical tape
> - masking tape
> - heat wrap tape
> - silicone tape
> - sharpie marker
> - small wire cutters
> - Leatherman tool
> - small retractable razor
> - screwdrivers:
> - 1 ratcheting w/bits
> - 1 stubby Phillips
> - 1 very small Phillips
> - 1 very small flat head
> - needle nose pliers
> - 1/4" drive ratchet & sockets (1/4" thru 1/2")
> - 1/4", 3/8", & 7/16" open end wrenches
> - 5/16" nut driver
> - small crescent wrench
> - small flashlight
> - fingerless gloves w/integrated lights
> - rags
> - oil spout adapter
> - disposable paper funnels
> - plastic cup
> - small plastic part bin
>
> The whole thing maybe weighs 5 pounds and lives in a small duffel bag that
I
> keep behind my seat.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Allen " <ajdubers(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fixing Tank Leaks |
I have used a 2 part epoxy from a company called Sta-C0 from Chicago.
Applied outside on rivet heads it seals well, requires little prep and
is not messy (sounds good doesn't it?). The problem is that I can't get
Sta-Co to respond so I can get some more....
allen
Allen Duberstein
ajdubers(at)comcast.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Bilinski
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Fixing Tank Leaks
--> <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Also apply what would be the equivalent of a patch over the hole with a
piece of metal, works great.
>
>Dwight;
>I have used Pro-Seal from the outside and had good results with it. A
>neighbor had a Toyota with a matchstem size hole in the bottom of the
>tank. I used emery cloth to sand it, With fuel running out, and
>applied pro-Seal liberally.
> I had to pat the Pro-Seal back up as it would form a bubble with the
weight
>of the fuel. After 15-20 minutes it set up enough to stay in place and
>stopped the leak. He drove the car for several more years. I have
done
>the same on
>my wifes antique car and it worked OK.
>I have fixed RV tank leaks by sanding with #40 grit and wash with
MEK,then
>apply Pro-Seal liberally. It will work.
>
>
>Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
>A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
>Charleston,Arkansas
>Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
=
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Traveling Tool Kit |
I'd add the o rings that seal the cylinder down at the brake pad and whatever it
takes to remove the wheelpants and remove that piston and sealing 0-ring.
On the day ours went out at Sun and Fun this year we turned out to be the 4th or
5th plane of the day in the experimental parking area that had this problem.
So in the big scheme of things it must not be all that uncommon. We were stuck
with only one brake working.
We only didn't have to spend the night at lakeland this year becase we had brought
with us the O-rings and most of the tools. The hydraulic fluid and pump were
there and we borrowed it. Took off before the shut the field down by only
a few minutes. Didn't bother putting the wheelpant back on until the next day.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Traveling Tool Kit |
My tag along tool kit resides in a mans shave kit zip bag. It has 2" velcro
on the bottom, which attaches to the other half atop the tunnel in our RV-4.It
has:
A 1/4" drive ratchet with screwdriver & hex tips for all phillips and
slotted screw sizes & sockets for 3/16" to 1/2".
A multi tip liteweight screwdriver from Wal-Mart(very lite).
A 6" Crescent wrench.
a bit of safety wire.
Pair of pliers.
small aluminum angle chocks.
Nylon tie-down ropes.
4 or 5 paper towels.
Extra clips to hold the cowl hinge pins.
6 extra # 8 screws.
4 spare batteries for handheld GPS.
tie-down rings
Small vise grips.
Cuyalume light sticks(Wrapped in amuminum foil for reflectors).
My spare glasses.
The bag could be a rain cap.
It all weighs 3 pounds.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Traveling Tool Kit |
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Good one. Where do you get the spare O-rings?
-
Larry Bowen, RV-8 in progress at 8A7...
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
RV8ter(at)aol.com said:
>
> I'd add the o rings that seal the cylinder down at the brake pad and
> whatever it takes to remove the wheelpants and remove that piston and
> sealing 0-ring.
>
> On the day ours went out at Sun and Fun this year we turned out to be the
> 4th or 5th plane of the day in the experimental parking area that had this
> problem. So in the big scheme of things it must not be all that uncommon.
> We were stuck with only one brake working.
>
> We only didn't have to spend the night at lakeland this year becase we had
> brought with us the O-rings and most of the tools. The hydraulic fluid
> and pump were there and we borrowed it. Took off before the shut the
> field down by only a few minutes. Didn't bother putting the wheelpant
> back on until the next day.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A20driver(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Special RV for sale |
Note to everybody interested: Claudio Tonini is selling his super RV-4 ----
Purple Passion---- Anybody interested 732-673-5739 / CTonini @aol.com......
Jim Brown, RV-3 and 4....NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Russell Johnson <entec1(at)pld.com> |
| Subject: | You`ve got 1 VoiceMessage! |
Dear Customer!
You`ve got 1 VoiceMessage from voicemessage.com website!
You can listen your Virtual VoiceMessage at the following link:
http://virt.voicemessage.com/index.listen.php2=35affv
or by clicking the attached link.
Send VoiceMessage! Try our new virtual VoiceMessage Empire!
Best regards: SNAF.Team (R).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Diffenbaugh" <diff(at)foothill.net> |
| Subject: | Avionics Mounting Problems |
My local avionics shop has just completed the bench top wiring of a full
GARMIN-AT IFR stack into my RV7A panel subassembly. The panel was CNC cut
and all trays mounted flush and square with the front face of the panel.
The side attachment supports are .063 extruded aluminum angles. All racks
are tied together with additional side straps as well as a full surround
support at the rear subpanel (the 3 firewall braces are installed as well).
The assembly appears to be very solid.
THE PROBLEM: When any individual device is installed with no other devices
installed, that device works fine. When another device is installed as
well, intermittent problems begin to occur. With all 5 devices installed,
lots of problems. The shop explained this is very common and that ever so
slight twisting or pressure exerted by installing several devices at a time
will cause this to happen, and that once the assembly is mounted in the
plane, I will need to manipulate each tray by filing the panel openings,
loosening and retightening mounting screws, bracing, etc., until all devices
work together. Since this seemed incredulous to me, I checked with the
Garmin technical service rep who confirmed this is an everyday occurrence.
The trays must be "tweaked" so that all of the rear pin connectors line up
perfectly.
THE QUESTION: Can anyone share their experiences in dealing with this
"common occurrence" and best way to proceed before I start hacking away?
Thank you,
Scott Diffenbaugh RV7A
diff(at)foothill.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Russell Johnson <entec1(at)pld.com> |
| Subject: | You`ve got 1 VoiceMessage! |
Dear Customer!
You`ve got 1 VoiceMessage from voicemessage.com website!
You can listen your Virtual VoiceMessage at the following link:
http://virt.voicemessage.com/index.listen.php2=35affv
or by clicking the attached link.
Send VoiceMessage! Try our new virtual VoiceMessage Empire!
Best regards: SNAF.Team (R).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dr. Peter Laurence" <dr.laurence(at)mbdi.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Avionics Mounting Problems |
Scott
This is so.
I recently helped a friend place his panel in a Velocity XL RG.
We had to "tweak" the warp out of a case so that the pins would line up.
Peter
>
> THE QUESTION: Can anyone share their experiences in dealing with
this
> "common occurrence" and best way to proceed before I start hacking away?
>
> Thank you,
>
> Scott Diffenbaugh RV7A
> diff(at)foothill.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Avionics Mounting Problems |
With all the simple, high quality, 99.99% guaranteed to work, connectors
out there I find this totally unacceptable........Sometimes "aircraft
quality" amazes me. Needless to say everything in my basic VFR panel worked
the first time with no tweaking.
>
>Scott
>
>This is so.
>
>I recently helped a friend place his panel in a Velocity XL RG.
>
>We had to "tweak" the warp out of a case so that the pins would line up.
>
>
>Peter
>
> >
> > THE QUESTION: Can anyone share their experiences in dealing with
>this
> > "common occurrence" and best way to proceed before I start hacking away?
> >
> > Thank you,
> >
> > Scott Diffenbaugh RV7A
> > diff(at)foothill.net
> >
> >
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Traveling Tool Kit |
Dan and all,
Be sure to tie that 5lb tool bag down securely in the back. It can
become quite the projectile in the event of an off field landing.
One local pilot was killed in a survivable landing when the tool box he
had in the airplane hit him in the back of the head as the airplane
flipped over. His wife survived the accident with minor injuries.
Be careful out there.
Laird
On Jun 14, 2004, at 10:55 PM, Dan Checkoway wrote:
>
>> "gotta have" or "sure wish I woulda had" tools that would make
>> up a small traveling tool kit.
>
> My kit is pretty simple and is still being developed over time. I
> bring it
> everywhere I go, regardless of how far I'm travelling.
>
> - small first aid kit
> - spare screws, washers, and nuts of all sizes
> - spare fuses of all ratings used
> - cotter pins of various sizes
> - about 4' of .032" safety wire
> - tie wraps
> - 1x new UREM37BY spark plug
> - copper crush washers for spark plugs
> - 4x automotive plugs
> - duct tape
> - aluminum tape
> - electrical tape
> - masking tape
> - heat wrap tape
> - silicone tape
> - sharpie marker
> - small wire cutters
> - Leatherman tool
> - small retractable razor
> - screwdrivers:
> - 1 ratcheting w/bits
> - 1 stubby Phillips
> - 1 very small Phillips
> - 1 very small flat head
> - needle nose pliers
> - 1/4" drive ratchet & sockets (1/4" thru 1/2")
> - 1/4", 3/8", & 7/16" open end wrenches
> - 5/16" nut driver
> - small crescent wrench
> - small flashlight
> - fingerless gloves w/integrated lights
> - rags
> - oil spout adapter
> - disposable paper funnels
> - plastic cup
> - small plastic part bin
>
> The whole thing maybe weighs 5 pounds and lives in a small duffel bag
> that I
> keep behind my seat.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Traveling Tool Kit |
carry an extra fuel cap.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Traveling Tool Kit |
And one last thing that Laird reminded me of... you might want to tape an
extra key inside your cowl or some other secret spot in case you lose your
key while at OSH. Been there, done that.
Randy Lervold
>
> Dan and all,
>
> Be sure to tie that 5lb tool bag down securely in the back. It can
> become quite the projectile in the event of an off field landing.
>
> One local pilot was killed in a survivable landing when the tool box he
> had in the airplane hit him in the back of the head as the airplane
> flipped over. His wife survived the accident with minor injuries.
>
> Be careful out there.
>
> Laird
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Milner" <tldrgred(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | emergency fuel cap |
you can use a 2in. PVC end cap from home depot aviation supply. it`s a jam fit
and stays by itself (don`t ask how I know)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cleaveland Aircraft Tool" <mail(at)cleavelandtool.com> |
| Subject: | Boeing Quick Change Chuck |
We have been selling the Boeing
Quick change system to RV builders for over 10 years. While some think
it is expensive (about $140 to make the conversion including the chuck).
Everyone that uses it swears by it. It will save hundreds of hours in
changing tools and looking for the chuck key. The adapters that we sell
let you use standard drill bits, countersinks, and other tooling in the
quick change chuck. In addition the chucks are smaller and can get into
tighter places. Many builders use multiple drills to avoid tool
changes, which makes $140 seem cheap. Feel free to call or e-mail
directly if anyone has questions.
Mike
Mike Lauritsen
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
2225 First St.
Boone, IA 50036
June 04, 2004 - June 15, 2004
RV-Archive.digest.vol-pj