RV-Archive.digest.vol-pk
June 15, 2004 - June 25, 2004
800-368-1822
Mike(at)CleavelandTool.com
www.cleavelandtool.com
-----------------------
tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com writes:
Does anyone out there know anything about "Boeing Quick Change Drill
Chucks"?
-----------------------
You will probably be better off and much happier removing the Boeing
Style Quick Change Chuck from your Dotco Drill and installing a Jacobs
standard or keyless chuck. The Boeing Quick Change system has been
around for well over 15 years now, and there is a reason it has not
migrated to the rest of the industry including the home-built market
---- it is extremely expensive! Boeing and all of the other big
manufacturers are willing to pay the cost of the system beacause it
shaves thousands of man hours from an aircraft assembly. On smaller
aircraft, or projects, the Boeing Quick Change System does not make
economic sense. The cost of Boeing Style Quick Change Drills is 3-4
times the cost of standard drills.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Traveling Tool Kit |
In a message dated 6/15/2004 7:12:55 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
Larry(at)bowenaero.com writes:
Where do you get the spare O-rings?
=================================
Ace Seal in Santa Clara, CA is one place. Look in the archives for my
posting on the P/Ns.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 701 hrs; last trip, Sedona)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Flight bags, was Traveling Tool Kit |
Since Kathleen has a sense of humor, and we have not had a good barnburner
like T/W vs Trike, or 3pt vs wheelies, or a good primer discussion, I
thought why not add a new one to the list of red hot issues on the RV-list,
Flight bag contents!!! This should warm things up a bit!!! People get
personal about all the "must haves" so this should be fun!
I see people arrive at airplanes with flight bags that look like duffel
bags. Some flight bags have every gadget in the Sportys catalog, and weigh
in at about 40 pounds. Sorry folks, but in my experience, the size of the
flight bag is usually inversely proportional to the experience of the pilot.
So in the interest of a spirited discussion (Yippee!!) I offer my flight bag
contents.
For warbird flying, my flight bag is a G.I. Helmet bag. In it either a
helmet or a headset, or both, depending on the mission. An MBU-12P Oxygen
mask. An impedance converter for civil radios. A small kneeboard. Howie
Keefe's Air Chart As appropriate. NOS approach plates if needed go in the
side pockets of the Helmet bag. I also have a small black fanny pack in the
helmet bag.
For flights in my own airplane all I take is the fanny pack, the charts have
a home in the airplane. Charts and headset stay in the plane. The fanny
pack has an old Lowrance GPS, the little one, a 6" needle nose vice grip, a
6" red Endres screwdriver that has a flip shaft in it with a flip bit in
each end. 6 AA batteries & 1-9V, 4 AAs for the GPS and 2 for the flashlight
or the CD player, and the 9v for my noise cancelling headset. A "AA" size
Mag light. A Sharpie for signing autographs at airshows, a ball point pen,
a couple flight suit name tags, some politically incorrect. Ear plugs, a
small bottle of sunscreen, a pad of checks, and a small bundle of business
cards. The fanny pack is always within reach in the cockpit. Not in the
fanny pack but always with me is a cellphone. That covers for a handheld.
There, that should be enough kindling to get a good fire going, anyone got a
match?
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kathleen (rv7)" <Kathleen(at)rv7.us> |
| Subject: | Flight bags, was Traveling Tool Kit |
Alright, I'm in and I raise you one AA size Maglight (yes, 2 in all) and a
small stick-type lipstick (you never know who you're gonna meet out there).
Anyone want to add a stack of sectionals covering the lower 48?
Kathleen
www.rv7.us
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doug Rozendaal
Subject: RV-List: Flight bags, was Traveling Tool Kit
Since Kathleen has a sense of humor, and we have not had a good barnburner
like T/W vs Trike, or 3pt vs wheelies, or a good primer discussion, I
thought why not add a new one to the list of red hot issues on the RV-list,
Flight bag contents!!! This should warm things up a bit!!! People get
personal about all the "must haves" so this should be fun!
I see people arrive at airplanes with flight bags that look like duffel
bags. Some flight bags have every gadget in the Sportys catalog, and weigh
in at about 40 pounds. Sorry folks, but in my experience, the size of the
flight bag is usually inversely proportional to the experience of the pilot.
So in the interest of a spirited discussion (Yippee!!) I offer my flight bag
contents.
For warbird flying, my flight bag is a G.I. Helmet bag. In it either a
helmet or a headset, or both, depending on the mission. An MBU-12P Oxygen
mask. An impedance converter for civil radios. A small kneeboard. Howie
Keefe's Air Chart As appropriate. NOS approach plates if needed go in the
side pockets of the Helmet bag. I also have a small black fanny pack in the
helmet bag.
For flights in my own airplane all I take is the fanny pack, the charts have
a home in the airplane. Charts and headset stay in the plane. The fanny
pack has an old Lowrance GPS, the little one, a 6" needle nose vice grip, a
6" red Endres screwdriver that has a flip shaft in it with a flip bit in
each end. 6 AA batteries & 1-9V, 4 AAs for the GPS and 2 for the flashlight
or the CD player, and the 9v for my noise cancelling headset. A "AA" size
Mag light. A Sharpie for signing autographs at airshows, a ball point pen,
a couple flight suit name tags, some politically incorrect. Ear plugs, a
small bottle of sunscreen, a pad of checks, and a small bundle of business
cards. The fanny pack is always within reach in the cockpit. Not in the
fanny pack but always with me is a cellphone. That covers for a handheld.
There, that should be enough kindling to get a good fire going, anyone got a
match?
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Kunkel" <rvator(at)socal.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flight bags, was Traveling Tool Kit |
Put a signal mirror in the flight bag. Best communications device ever
invented when you need it - hopefully never!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com>
Subject: RV-List: Flight bags, was Traveling Tool Kit
>
> Since Kathleen has a sense of humor, and we have not had a good barnburner
> like T/W vs Trike, or 3pt vs wheelies, or a good primer discussion, I
> thought why not add a new one to the list of red hot issues on the
RV-list,
> Flight bag contents!!! This should warm things up a bit!!! People get
> personal about all the "must haves" so this should be fun!
>
> I see people arrive at airplanes with flight bags that look like duffel
> bags. Some flight bags have every gadget in the Sportys catalog, and
weigh
> in at about 40 pounds. Sorry folks, but in my experience, the size of the
> flight bag is usually inversely proportional to the experience of the
pilot.
>
> So in the interest of a spirited discussion (Yippee!!) I offer my flight
bag
> contents.
> For warbird flying, my flight bag is a G.I. Helmet bag. In it either a
> helmet or a headset, or both, depending on the mission. An MBU-12P Oxygen
> mask. An impedance converter for civil radios. A small kneeboard. Howie
> Keefe's Air Chart As appropriate. NOS approach plates if needed go in the
> side pockets of the Helmet bag. I also have a small black fanny pack in
the
> helmet bag.
>
> For flights in my own airplane all I take is the fanny pack, the charts
have
> a home in the airplane. Charts and headset stay in the plane. The fanny
> pack has an old Lowrance GPS, the little one, a 6" needle nose vice grip,
a
> 6" red Endres screwdriver that has a flip shaft in it with a flip bit in
> each end. 6 AA batteries & 1-9V, 4 AAs for the GPS and 2 for the
flashlight
> or the CD player, and the 9v for my noise cancelling headset. A "AA" size
> Mag light. A Sharpie for signing autographs at airshows, a ball point
pen,
> a couple flight suit name tags, some politically incorrect. Ear plugs, a
> small bottle of sunscreen, a pad of checks, and a small bundle of business
> cards. The fanny pack is always within reach in the cockpit. Not in the
> fanny pack but always with me is a cellphone. That covers for a handheld.
>
> There, that should be enough kindling to get a good fire going, anyone got
a
> match?
>
> Tailwinds,
> Doug Rozendaal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Flight bags, was Traveling Tool Kit |
Kathleen (rv7) wrote:
> Anyone want to add a stack of sectionals covering the lower 48?
Does the Airchart VFR atlas count (covers
eastern half of US)? :-)
-Dj
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Flight bags, was Traveling Tool Kit |
>
> Put a signal mirror in the flight bag. Best communications
> device ever invented when you need it - hopefully never!
Fred, Fred, Fred. This isn't the movies, you know. The good guys
aren't going to be looking your way at the right instant when you happen
to find the sun and get just the exact angle for the mirror. Better
would be to wait until night time and light off some fireworks. If that
doesn't work, just torch the plane, someone will see it.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 483 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:Flight bag,was Travelling Tool bag |
I read a description which said a flashlight is a storage container for dead
batteries. I'll stick with my Cyalume Light Sticks(Wrapped in aluminum foil
to use as reflectors). They don't even have batteries and can be used in
explosive atmosphere,(Like plane on back and gas leaking) !
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVEIGHTA(at)aol.com |
Guys, just noticed after approximately 110 hours flying time that I have
cracks around the prop openings (I have a three blade prop) in my spinner.. The
cracks are at the front of the openings where the fiberglass rests against the
front bulkhead. Anyone had this problem?
I'm considering a polished aluminum spinner, anyone know who carries them and
price?
Thanks, Walt Shipley RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry(at)mc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Traveling Tool Kit |
Hi Shirley ... I just got home from my ex's where everyone celebrated Mark
and Rebecca's birthday. Mark is 48 and Rebecca 12. Everyone is growing up
except me and you. I thank you for doing this shopping for me ... you are a
doll ... did you know that? I'll be happy with any color T-shirt because
you know what ... it really doesn't matter about the color. I am blessed to
have a friend like you. Thanks so much ... I'll keep an eye out for the
package. Today I painted on about 3/4 of a gallon primer and it's going to
be a grind doing all the nooks and crannies in this hangar but it'll look
pure white and sharpe as a well painted place.
I must go to bed now before it's time to get up. I'll be up at about 5 to
hit it again and this will go on for several days ... just watch.
Thankfully I have a real good painter to help me ... a pro at his work.
God bless and kisses to you ...
Jerry
----- Original Message -----
From: "qcbccgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Traveling Tool Kit
>
> Note you have two types of plugs but not a plug wrench for either.
> Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
> Safety Programs Editor - TC
> EAA Sport Pilot
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Traveling Tool Kit
>
>
> >
> > > "gotta have" or "sure wish I woulda had" tools that would make
> > > up a small traveling tool kit.
> >
> > My kit is pretty simple and is still being developed over time. I bring
> it
> > everywhere I go, regardless of how far I'm travelling.
> >
> > - small first aid kit
> > - spare screws, washers, and nuts of all sizes
> > - spare fuses of all ratings used
> > - cotter pins of various sizes
> > - about 4' of .032" safety wire
> > - tie wraps
> > - 1x new UREM37BY spark plug
> > - copper crush washers for spark plugs
> > - 4x automotive plugs
> > - duct tape
> > - aluminum tape
> > - electrical tape
> > - masking tape
> > - heat wrap tape
> > - silicone tape
> > - sharpie marker
> > - small wire cutters
> > - Leatherman tool
> > - small retractable razor
> > - screwdrivers:
> > - 1 ratcheting w/bits
> > - 1 stubby Phillips
> > - 1 very small Phillips
> > - 1 very small flat head
> > - needle nose pliers
> > - 1/4" drive ratchet & sockets (1/4" thru 1/2")
> > - 1/4", 3/8", & 7/16" open end wrenches
> > - 5/16" nut driver
> > - small crescent wrench
> > - small flashlight
> > - fingerless gloves w/integrated lights
> > - rags
> > - oil spout adapter
> > - disposable paper funnels
> > - plastic cup
> > - small plastic part bin
> >
> > The whole thing maybe weighs 5 pounds and lives in a small duffel bag
that
> I
> > keep behind my seat.
> >
> > )_( Dan
> > RV-7 N714D
> > http://www.rvproject.com
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Traveling Tool Kit |
In a message dated 6/15/2004 2:32:57 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
owens(at)aerovironment.com writes:
I've had a flat tire at a place where no help was available.....that
sucks. Now I carry a can of fix-a-flat. If Paul Rosales hadn't had a
spare package of brake O-rings in his tool kit, one of our guys
wouldn't have made to the final destination (Idaho) on one of our group
trips.....we've had starter solenoids fail, and Paul had one of those.
Another friend carries a Hall pickup for Rose ignitions.....because
he's had them fail. Someone forgot to secure a fuel cap....I had one
of those. On our last trip to the Bahamas, I DID take a spare
tire...and everything I needed to change it by myself. As far as an
air-compressor....I took a bike tire pump.
===========================
Laird is a good and smart guy and I agree with the admonition to carry a
spare Skytec solenoid and a Hall pickup and anything thing else that is a common
failure item, not mainstream aircraft issue and likely to be in stock at the
out of the way FBO.
As far as the lost fuel cap, well, that was pilot error and thus avoidable.
Avoidable in the sense of you need to put it back on and also in the sense
of we all know these cap pivot pins are JUNK and should be replaced with a
solid pin if you want them to remain in one piece for any length of time. This
is in the archives.
The brake O-rings, yep, pilot error again. Why, you ask? Because the
standard issue nitrile O-rings are just inferior when used at the calipers and
any
pilot worth his salt would just replace them now with Viton versions and be
done with it.
For tire repair, scooter outlets carry patch kits complete with inflation
cartridges. Wish I had had one on Memorial Day when my nose gear tube lost
it's mojo at Rio Vista.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 701 hrs; last trip, Sedona)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
"'owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com '"(at)matronics.com
Doug,
Dan's list is pretty good, I have some additions.
1/4" wobbly sockets 1/4 thru 9/16, can be had at sears. All my sockets and
wrenches go to 9/16, and 11/16 except for one stubby 7/8 to get to the
plugs.
whatever you need to lift and change a tire, spark plug and belt, (torque
wrench can usually be borrowed) do most safetying, small wiring repairs,
cheapo DVOM, some cash and a credit card.
Although heavy, a spare fuel cap is not a bad idea either, although I think
a 150kt tape patch would work in a pinch.
rags, and several super LEDs type lights.
A spare ignition key
1 qt of oil, 1 qt of water, and 1 qt of jon bottle.
a working cell phone
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Walt,
No cracks so far (2 Blade) but we did wrap the front buldhead mounting plate
with elec tape to provide a little vibration isolation between the spinner
and bulkhead.
Good luck,
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A (300 + hrs)
>From: RVEIGHTA(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Spinner woes
>Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2004 22:29:42 EDT
>
>
>Guys, just noticed after approximately 110 hours flying time that I have
>cracks around the prop openings (I have a three blade prop) in my spinner..
>The
>cracks are at the front of the openings where the fiberglass rests against
>the
>front bulkhead. Anyone had this problem?
>
>I'm considering a polished aluminum spinner, anyone know who carries them
>and
>price?
>
>Thanks, Walt Shipley RV-8A
>
>
http://join.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200362ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flight bags, was Traveling Tool Kit |
Kathleen,
As long as the lipstick is Red, cause "airplanes, pickup trucks, and
lipstick should all be Blood Red."
Tailwinds,
Doug
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kathleen (rv7)" <Kathleen(at)rv7.us>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Flight bags, was Traveling Tool Kit
>
> Alright, I'm in and I raise you one AA size Maglight (yes, 2 in all) and a
> small stick-type lipstick (you never know who you're gonna meet out
there).
> Anyone want to add a stack of sectionals covering the lower 48?
>
> Kathleen
> www.rv7.us
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doug Rozendaal
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Flight bags, was Traveling Tool Kit
>
>
> Since Kathleen has a sense of humor, and we have not had a good barnburner
> like T/W vs Trike, or 3pt vs wheelies, or a good primer discussion, I
> thought why not add a new one to the list of red hot issues on the
RV-list,
> Flight bag contents!!! This should warm things up a bit!!! People get
> personal about all the "must haves" so this should be fun!
>
> I see people arrive at airplanes with flight bags that look like duffel
> bags. Some flight bags have every gadget in the Sportys catalog, and
weigh
> in at about 40 pounds. Sorry folks, but in my experience, the size of the
> flight bag is usually inversely proportional to the experience of the
pilot.
>
> So in the interest of a spirited discussion (Yippee!!) I offer my flight
bag
> contents.
> For warbird flying, my flight bag is a G.I. Helmet bag. In it either a
> helmet or a headset, or both, depending on the mission. An MBU-12P Oxygen
> mask. An impedance converter for civil radios. A small kneeboard. Howie
> Keefe's Air Chart As appropriate. NOS approach plates if needed go in the
> side pockets of the Helmet bag. I also have a small black fanny pack in
the
> helmet bag.
>
> For flights in my own airplane all I take is the fanny pack, the charts
have
> a home in the airplane. Charts and headset stay in the plane. The fanny
> pack has an old Lowrance GPS, the little one, a 6" needle nose vice grip,
a
> 6" red Endres screwdriver that has a flip shaft in it with a flip bit in
> each end. 6 AA batteries & 1-9V, 4 AAs for the GPS and 2 for the
flashlight
> or the CD player, and the 9v for my noise cancelling headset. A "AA" size
> Mag light. A Sharpie for signing autographs at airshows, a ball point
pen,
> a couple flight suit name tags, some politically incorrect. Ear plugs, a
> small bottle of sunscreen, a pad of checks, and a small bundle of business
> cards. The fanny pack is always within reach in the cockpit. Not in the
> fanny pack but always with me is a cellphone. That covers for a handheld.
>
> There, that should be enough kindling to get a good fire going, anyone got
a
> match?
>
> Tailwinds,
> Doug Rozendaal
>
>
> advertising on the Matronics Forums.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sjhdcl(at)kingston.net |
A spare fuel cap is a very good thing. Saved me once after the attendant
broke the top off.
Steve
RV7A
Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
sjhdcl(at)kingston.net wrote:
>
> A spare fuel cap is a very good thing. Saved me once after the attendant
> broke the top off.
>
> Steve
> RV7A
> Flying
This info is in the archives, but I have found 1/16" stainless welding
rod to be a great replacement for the original pins in the fuel caps. It
is softer than drill rod which means you can quickly make a replacement
on the ramp with a decent pair of cutting pliers, but it will stand up
to years of use. I carry a 6" length in the flight bag along with the
pneumatic squeezer and spare exhaust system. :-)
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 575 hrs)
http://www.thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Shemp" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Advice for apartment dwelling wannabe builder? loong |
I live downtown Chicago in a 500 sq ft studio apartment and had the same
dilemma. I had a 6 tail kit still sitting in the original box for 2 years.
I ended up selling the tail and buying an unfinished kit. I thought this
would save a ton of time so I somewhat moved back to my airline "crashpad"
where I had an unbelievably great option for help and tools at an airport.
I could easily commute between there and my apartment. I found that in my
infatuation with finishing the airplane I spent very little time in my
apartment.
Now, with all of that being said, if you're planning on living in an
apartment complex or even worse, a high rise in downtown NY, as they say,
"fugetaboutit".
On the positive side, I would look for local garages for rent. I ended
going garage to garage with flyers requesting to rent. Unfortunately it
didnt work for me but it was worth the effort.
If you have to drive for a while to get to your project, I think you'll find
it not to be a problem. You'll have plenty to think about during your
drives. There will be many tasks you can work on at the apartment during
the week. Pack a lunch and head out for the shop on the wknds. You may be
surprised to find how much gets done when you're away from distractions.
Jeff Dowling
RV-6a/ 80 hours
Chicago/ Louisville
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Heuveln" <lemar(at)alliancecom.net> |
| Subject: | Oshkosh Enroute Camping |
I'm located in NW Iowa, about four hundred miles from Oshkosh. I'm considering
inviting RVrs who want to camp to spend the night here. We're on a private strip
(7IA2) with 2200' asphalt and 3400' excellent turf runway. I have a couple
of acres of backyard for camping, would set up a BBQ grill for cooking and have
a couple of bathrooms with showers.
My thought is to make this invitation for 7/21 thru 7/27 ( I leave for OSH on 7/28).
Questions: Is there any interest from RVrs from the West who would like to spend
a night about two flight hours from OSH? If so, how many? When? Since we haven't
done this before, what other amenities do we need to provide? Other suggestions
are welcome.
Van
100 hours on RV7 N77VH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Alley <n320wt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Spinner woes |
Walt, I produce parts for homebuilts from carbon
fiber. Everything I make is light and very strong. I
use mil spec C-282 carbon fiber fabric and production
quality molds. I make spinners, wheel pants, cowlings
instrument panels and other parts for the Wittman
Tailwind. Call me if your interested in a carbon fiber spinner.
====
BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
304-872-7938 shop
304-562-6800 home
How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darwin Barrie" <ktlkrn(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flight bags, was Traveling Tool Kit |
As a former search and rescue helicopter pilot for a major law enforcement agency
in AZ I have been involved in lots of searches.
A short list of stuff you need in your survival kit when you may have a forced
landing is some water and a "Hot Pink" thong bikini. Just wave the bikini in the
air, it is like a GPS signal to a cop pilot. You'll be found in minutes.
Darwin N. Barrie
7 almost done
Chandler AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Infinity Aerospace control grips position and stick length |
David,
I installed mine in a twisted position to match the angle of my
arm/wrist when my elbow is on the arm rest. This is a very comfortable
position and I have not found any drawbacks. A friend of mine installed
his straight on and I did not like how it felt.
I trimmed my stick down so it would not interfere with my instrument
panel that is deeper than stock. In reality, I don't think this is
needed as I can not imagine a situation where I would move the stick
that far. I would recommend trimming it to make it a comfortable
height.
Ross Mickey
N9PT
RV6A
80 hours and growing
-----Original Message-----
Subject: RV-List: Infinity Aerospace control grips position and stick
length
Listers
I am installing Infinity control grips in my RV6, I notice from a few
photos from my visits to Oshkosh that some builders fit it offset,
rather than level across the aircraft Can I have a few opinions from
both camps. IE, does it cause problems with your wrist , sitting in my
aircraft with my arm on the arm rest it seems that there is quite a bit
of angle needed in the wrist joint... Also, what is the optimum length
for the control stick.
Regards
David Roseblade
RV 6 Finishing
Dubai, UAE
Persian Gulf
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu> |
| Subject: | turn coordinator theory |
Hi all,
I'm looking for an Internet reference that
explains how a turn coordinator works.
Anyone know of one?
Thanks,
-Dj
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Infinity Aerospace control grips position and stick length |
On the issue of cutting down the front stick. We keep ours as long as
possible to clear the panel with our thumb on the top coolie hat switch of
the grip.
We DID cut down the length of the rear stick - That way we could over
leverage the rear stick from the Front. (don't remember who suggested this
about 4 years ago) but it's a good safety feature.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (300+ hrs)
>From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Infinity Aerospace control grips position and stick
>length
>Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2004 08:37:25 -0700
>
>
>David,
>
>I installed mine in a twisted position to match the angle of my
>arm/wrist when my elbow is on the arm rest. This is a very comfortable
>position and I have not found any drawbacks. A friend of mine installed
>his straight on and I did not like how it felt.
>
>I trimmed my stick down so it would not interfere with my instrument
>panel that is deeper than stock. In reality, I don't think this is
>needed as I can not imagine a situation where I would move the stick
>that far. I would recommend trimming it to make it a comfortable
>height.
>
>Ross Mickey
>N9PT
>RV6A
>80 hours and growing
>
>-----Original Message-----
>Subject: RV-List: Infinity Aerospace control grips position and stick
>length
>
>Listers
>
>I am installing Infinity control grips in my RV6, I notice from a few
>photos from my visits to Oshkosh that some builders fit it offset,
>rather than level across the aircraft Can I have a few opinions from
>both camps. IE, does it cause problems with your wrist , sitting in my
>aircraft with my arm on the arm rest it seems that there is quite a bit
>of angle needed in the wrist joint... Also, what is the optimum length
>for the control stick.
>Regards
>
>David Roseblade
>RV 6 Finishing
>Dubai, UAE
>Persian Gulf
>
>
>=
>=
>=
>=
>
>
Looking to buy a house? Get informed with the Home Buying Guide from MSN
House & Home. http://coldwellbanker.msn.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bluecavu(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Traveling Tool Kit |
>I'd add the o rings that seal the cylinder down at the brake pad and
whatever it
takes to remove the wheelpants and remove that piston and sealing 0-ring.
>On the day ours went out at Sun and Fun this year we turned out to be the
4th or
5th plane of the day in the experimental parking area that had this problem.
So in the big scheme of things it must not be all that uncommon.=A0 We were
stuck
with only one brake working.
>The brake O-rings, yep, pilot error again.=A0 Why, you ask?=A0=A0 Because the
standard issue nitrile O-rings are just inferior when used at the=A0 calipers
and
any
pilot worth his salt would just replace them now=A0 with Viton versions and be
done with it.
Frankly I'm amazed at this... after decades now of fooling around with little
airplanes -both as a full-time GA A&P for many years, and as a
homebuilder/restorer. I've never heard of a brake O-ring failure at the caliper
(other than
a little sticky ooze of a leak) -EXCEPT where the poor souls have had the
pistons installed backwards... -and as the pads wore, the (wrong) end of the
piston w/ the O-rings moved out of the bore. Must be some really poor O-rings out
there these days... or else you guys are puttin the pistons in wrong (the end
w/ the O-ring goes in the hole first!)
Scott
N4ZW (and NC76740/N2597V)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | mindless profiteering: was flight bag |
Mount Sanderson: That's what we call our mountain of overstocked Jeppesen
Flightbags in the corner of the warehouse. These are medium sized, nicely
constructed flightbags which normally sell for $40 or which are included as
part of the various Jeppesen pilot training and maintenance kits. They have
a main center section and a series of pouches on the outside for charts,
pens, flashlights, and other quick needed items. They are big enough to
store most of the spare parts and tools we've been talking about the last
couple days. (except maybe not Sam Buchanan's spare exhaust system). I've
got about fifty I can let go for $20. Write back off list in the next
couple days if you want one.
While I'm at it, I'm also way overstocked on CSG (E6B) manual flight
computers. These are the sliding computers that tell you wind correction
angles, density altitude, lots of conversions, and other in-flight
navigation problems. Most of us haven't used these since passing our check
rides, however if you still like them as a backup, I've got about twenty of
the nice metal kind I can sell for $20 each (half the normal retail). And,
if you don't remember how to use them, they do come with a manual. Write
back off list or call in the next couple of days if you want one
Thanks for putting up with this mindless profiteering.
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
http://www.buildersbooks.com
800 780-4115
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV-7A Builder" <RV-7A(at)Austin.RR.com> |
| Subject: | Installing Left Gear Mount in a -7A QB |
Oddly enough I picked the right side to do first and it went right in. But the
left side does not want to fit unless I drill and remove the F-902-L bulkhead.
The forward leg of the mount is keeping it from dropping down the the cut hole
for the gear tube. See pics of problem here. If I have to drill rivets and
remove bulkhead so be it, but if someone has good info on doing it easier I'm
all for it. I didn't buy a QB so I could take it apart.
http://jeffsrv7a.com/FUSELAGE/FUSELAGE%20031.jpg
http://jeffsrv7a.com/FUSELAGE/FUSELAGE%20032.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Geoff Evans <hellothaimassage(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | mag compass location |
Can anyone offer any advice (or personal experience) about whether it is
better to place a mag compass in the panel or on top of the glareshield?
I'm building a VFR-only RV-8, and I'm going to buy a vertical card mag
compass. Specifically, I'm interested to hear if anyone has any problems with
compass inaccuracy when it's in the panel (due to electromagnetic
interference), as opposed to when it's on the glareshield.
Thanks.
-Geoff
RV-8 QB
__________________________________
http://mobile.yahoo.com/maildemo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dwpetrus(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: mag compass location |
Mine works fine mounted in the panel. Be sure to calibrate with everything
turned on and engine running.
Wayne Petrus
RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com> |
| Subject: | Advice for apartment dwelling wannabe builder? loong |
I'd have to say that that's a bit negative. Seems there was a guy working
on his RV while living in a stateroom aboard a warship. I forget the
details, but it was reported either on the list or in the RV-ator.
On a more practical note, see my website (www.flion.com). My tail and wings
were built in the living room of my apartment. I had a hiatus afterward, as
I was unable to find a garage for my fuselage, but the apartment I am in now
has one and the project is slowly going forward. I hope to be in a house by
year end, and no more obstacles. I could have waited, but then I would be
that much farther behind...
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - fuse bottom skins being fitted
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Shemp
Subject: Re: RV-List: Advice for apartment dwelling wannabe builder? loong
I live downtown Chicago in a 500 sq ft studio apartment and had the same
dilemma. I had a 6 tail kit still sitting in the original box for 2 years.
I ended up selling the tail and buying an unfinished kit. I thought this
would save a ton of time so I somewhat moved back to my airline "crashpad"
where I had an unbelievably great option for help and tools at an airport.
I could easily commute between there and my apartment. I found that in my
infatuation with finishing the airplane I spent very little time in my
apartment.
Now, with all of that being said, if you're planning on living in an
apartment complex or even worse, a high rise in downtown NY, as they say,
"fugetaboutit".
On the positive side, I would look for local garages for rent. I ended
going garage to garage with flyers requesting to rent. Unfortunately it
didnt work for me but it was worth the effort.
If you have to drive for a while to get to your project, I think you'll find
it not to be a problem. You'll have plenty to think about during your
drives. There will be many tasks you can work on at the apartment during
the week. Pack a lunch and head out for the shop on the wknds. You may be
surprised to find how much gets done when you're away from distractions.
Jeff Dowling
RV-6a/ 80 hours
Chicago/ Louisville
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Installing Left Gear Mount in a -7A QB |
In a message dated 6/16/2004 12:49:02 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
RV-7A(at)Austin.RR.com writes:
> http://jeffsrv7a.com/FUSELAGE/FUSELAGE%20032.jpg
I just confronted the same situation a few days ago. What finally solved the
problem was a combination of:
1) Trimming a bit off the aft end of the 717 lower longeron
2) Trimming a tiny bit of the aft end that sticks up on the 772B Floor
stiffener
3) Drilling out three nutplates on the 704 fwd bulkhead
4) Slightly enlarging the oblong hole for the gear leg in the bottom skin
That fwd gear leg has to go behind the 904 bulkhead first
Hope this helps,
John McDonnell RV7A QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Knicholas2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh Enroute Camping |
In a message dated 6/16/2004 8:07:04 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
lemar(at)alliancecom.net writes:
Questions: Is there any interest from RVrs from the West who would like to
spend a night about two flight hours from OSH?
WOW. I am not able to go to OSH this year but I am impressed with your
kindness and generous offer. As someone who cannot attend, I thank you for
thinking of your RV brethren.
Kim Nicholas
RV9A -DONE. 1st flight next week!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: mag compass location |
In a message dated 6/16/04 12:44:24 PM Central Daylight Time,
hellothaimassage(at)yahoo.com writes:
> Can anyone offer any advice (or personal experience) about whether it is
> better to place a mag compass in the panel or on top of the glareshield?
>>>>>>>>
My PAI-700 is mounted top center in the panel, right above Microair 760 and
T2000. Haven't seen it flinch yet and it points the way well... Precision
warns to not mount these in the panel (buy their mount instead!) but I've seen
many in many different positions (in panel) and haven't heard any complaints.
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark -6A Tip-up, 75 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh Enroute Camping |
How about something to fill a "Hot Pink" thong bikini which I'm
considering adding to my tool bag.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
----- Original Message -----
> Questions: Is there any interest from RVrs from the West who would like to
spend a night about two flight hours from OSH? If so, how many? When? Since
we haven't done this before, what other amenities do we need to provide?
Other suggestions are welcome.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Hyde" <nauga(at)brick.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Flight bags, was Traveling Tool Kit |
> There, that should be enough kindling to get a good fire going,
> anyone got a match?
I have a little gov't issue nav bag for home-based flights.
Inside:
A couple of old, tattered sectionals (DC, LA, KC and STL)
Nasty foam earplugs
Timer with dead batteries
7 year old jar of once-strong sunscreen
A piddle pack from my 'secret stash' or a diaper in a ziploc
An opaque Hefty bag (think full-body sic-sac)
$1.73 in assorted loose change
3-4 5x7 cards and pencil with broken lead
Dirt
In my flight suit I always carry my wallet, a cellphone,
and a Phillips screwdriver that doubles as a canopy breaker.
Dave Hyde
nauga(at)brick.net
RV-4 in flight test, EAA tech counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | CCR-264SS-3-2 vs. MK319*BS |
When using a blind rivet to substitue for an AN426AD3-X flush head rivet
does anyone have a preference on these two alternatives? The MK319 needs to
be drilled out to 7/64" so that's one negative from the get go. Which one
lays more flush and looks better?
Randy Lervold
RV-3B, empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | C P <yankeerv10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | WTB RV 6/6A/7/7A |
Hi,
A friend of mine I took to the New England wing of Van's Air
Force fly-in last week is hot to trot to buy a 6/6A/7/7A! He was
all set to buy his third Yak but fell in love with the RV's.
Please, if you know of someone selling, pass on some contact
info?! He's got cash burning a hole in his pocket!
thanks,
Chuck Packard
YankeeRV10(at)yahoo.com
__________________________________
http://mobile.yahoo.com/maildemo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | CCR-264SS-3-2 vs. MK319*BS |
>
> When using a blind rivet to substitue for an AN426AD3-X flush
> head rivet does anyone have a preference on these two
> alternatives? The MK319 needs to be drilled out to 7/64" so
> that's one negative from the get go. Which one lays more
> flush and looks better?
>
> Randy Lervold
> RV-3B, empennage
What is the other alternative?
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 482 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Greasing rod end bearings |
Mickey,
I repack them with automotive wheel bearing grease. The female type joints can
be easily re-packed. Remove the related rod, pack grease in the threaded hole
of the joint and re-install the threaded rod. It will force the fresh grease
into the Heim joint. Evidence of this will be seen as the original grease leaking
out of the joint.
Charlie Kuss
>
>Hi,
>
>What's the procedure for keeping the rod end bearings
>well lubricated? They come with a bit of grease on
>them, but should I try to pack them more? How often
>do they need to be either re-greased or replaced?
>
>Thanks,
>Mickey
>
>--
>Mickey Coggins
>http://www.rv8.ch/
>#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <EricHe(at)FlexSolPackaging.com> |
Dear Lord Man, what are you thinking? You forgot Corvettes. This is why red paint
costs twice as much as the ugly colors.
Eric
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Kathleen,
As long as the lipstick is Red, cause "airplanes, pickup trucks, and
lipstick should all be Blood Red."
Tailwinds,
Doug
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: mindless profiteering: was flight bag |
Andy
Pencil me in for one of those bags. I'll wait till a decent hour (your time) to
call and give you my Credit Card info
Charlie Kuss
>
>Mount Sanderson: That's what we call our mountain of overstocked Jeppesen
>Flightbags in the corner of the warehouse. These are medium sized, nicely
>constructed flightbags which normally sell for $40 or which are included as
>part of the various Jeppesen pilot training and maintenance kits. They have
>a main center section and a series of pouches on the outside for charts,
>pens, flashlights, and other quick needed items. They are big enough to
>store most of the spare parts and tools we've been talking about the last
>couple days. (except maybe not Sam Buchanan's spare exhaust system). I've
>got about fifty I can let go for $20. Write back off list in the next
>couple days if you want one.
>
>
>While I'm at it, I'm also way overstocked on CSG (E6B) manual flight
>computers. These are the sliding computers that tell you wind correction
>angles, density altitude, lots of conversions, and other in-flight
>navigation problems. Most of us haven't used these since passing our check
>rides, however if you still like them as a backup, I've got about twenty of
>the nice metal kind I can sell for $20 each (half the normal retail). And,
>if you don't remember how to use them, they do come with a manual. Write
>back off list or call in the next couple of days if you want one
>
>Thanks for putting up with this mindless profiteering.
>
>Andy
>Builder's Bookstore
>http://www.buildersbooks.com
>800 780-4115
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: CCR-264SS-3-2 vs. MK319*BS |
Alex, CCR-264SS-3-2 (it was in the subject line)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: CCR-264SS-3-2 vs. MK319*BS
>
>
> >
> > When using a blind rivet to substitue for an AN426AD3-X flush
> > head rivet does anyone have a preference on these two
> > alternatives? The MK319 needs to be drilled out to 7/64" so
> > that's one negative from the get go. Which one lays more
> > flush and looks better?
> >
> > Randy Lervold
> > RV-3B, empennage
>
> What is the other alternative?
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> RV6-A N66AP 482 hours
> http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dr. Leathers" <DrLeathers(at)822heal.com> |
I once owned a fleet of Oil Field Rig-up trucks. I had one of my Peterbuilt
conventionals painted Porsche Guards Red, which is the deepest reddest red
there is (IMHO). That truck would literally draw crowds anywhere it was
parked. Tourists would take pictures of it. It was really something to see.
I'll see if I can find a picture to scan and post.
Doc
----- Original Message -----
From: <EricHe(at)FlexSolPackaging.com>
Subject: RV-List: Flight bags
>
>
> Dear Lord Man, what are you thinking? You forgot Corvettes. This is why
red paint costs twice as much as the ugly colors.
>
> Eric
>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> Kathleen,
>
> As long as the lipstick is Red, cause "airplanes, pickup trucks, and
> lipstick should all be Blood Red."
>
> Tailwinds,
> Doug
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: mindless profiteering: was flight bag |
They are actually pretty nice bags. I got one as a thank you for donating to the
RV-List. Lots of room for your must-haves.
Kuss
Andy
Pencil me in for one of those bags. I'll wait till a decent hour (your time) to
call and give you my Credit Card info
Charlie Kuss
>
>Mount Sanderson: That's what we call our mountain of overstocked Jeppesen
>Flightbags in the corner of the warehouse. These are medium sized, nicely
>constructed flightbags which normally sell for $40 or which are included as
>part of the various Jeppesen pilot training and maintenance kits. They have
>a main center section and a series of pouches on the outside for charts,
>pens, flashlights, and other quick needed items. They are big enough to
>store most of the spare parts and tools we've been talking about the last
>couple days. (except maybe not Sam Buchanan's spare exhaust system). I've
>got about fifty I can let go for $20. Write back off list in the next
>couple days if you want one.
>
>
>While I'm at it, I'm also way overstocked on CSG (E6B) manual flight
>computers. These are the sliding computers that tell you wind correction
>angles, density altitude, lots of conversions, and other in-flight
>navigation problems. Most of us haven't used these since passing our check
>rides, however if you still like them as a backup, I've got about twenty of
>the nice metal kind I can sell for $20 each (half the normal retail). And,
>if you don't remember how to use them, they do come with a manual. Write
>back off list or call in the next couple of days if you want one
>
>Thanks for putting up with this mindless profiteering.
>
>Andy
>Builder's Bookstore
>http://www.buildersbooks.com
>800 780-4115
>
>
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Suffoletto" <rsuffoletto(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Elevator horn travel limit |
I am not able to get the necessary up travel on the elevators because the most
rear horn hits the rear bulk head just as it reaches the stop. ( 4 degrees short)
Consequently taking anymore off the stop is not going to help. Is it OK to
trim away some of the lower horn to get a few more degrees of travel? Anybody
else run into this?
Richard
RV-7A QB
Getting married? Find great tips, tools and the latest trends at MSN Life Events.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kathleen (rv7)" <Kathleen(at)rv7.us> |
| Subject: | Elevator horn travel limit |
Are you sure your problem is with "up"? Normally, you must notch the
HS-603PP flange to get adequate down travel, but I don't think there should
be any interference with up travel. I wouldn't touch anything else until
you figure out why your situation is unique. First, though, I'd look at it
again. Remember, when the aileron travels up (up travel), the control arm
(horn?) travels down. That's normally where the clearance problem is and
where the trimming needs to take place. You might have to trim out 3/8" or
so.
Good luck,
Kathleen,
www.rv7.us
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Suffoletto
Subject: RV-List: Elevator horn travel limit
-->
I am not able to get the necessary up travel on the elevators because the
most rear horn hits the rear bulk head just as it reaches the stop. ( 4
degrees short) Consequently taking anymore off the stop is not going to
help. Is it OK to trim away some of the lower horn to get a few more degrees
of travel? Anybody else run into this?
Richard
RV-7A QB
Getting married? Find great tips, tools and the latest trends at MSN Life
Events.
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Elevator horn travel limit |
>
> I am not able to get the necessary up travel on the elevators
> because the
> most rear horn hits the rear bulk head just as it reaches the
> stop. ( 4
> degrees short) Consequently taking anymore off the stop is
> not going to
> help. Is it OK to trim away some of the lower horn to get a
> few more degrees
> of travel? Anybody else run into this?
>
>
> Richard
Richard,
I seem to recall that the aft end of one of the elevator horns on my
plane needed to be trimmed for the exact issue you have. The left and
right horns are typically not aligned well with one another, so IIRC
only one needed to be trimmed. In my case, this was not builder
adjustable - the weldments simply were off.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 482 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator horn travel limit |
I had to trim the lower rear of the horn a little on my -6 because it
contacted the rear bulkhead before the desired up elevator travel was
reached.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
N296JC RV6
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Suffoletto" <rsuffoletto(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Elevator horn travel limit
>
>
> I am not able to get the necessary up travel on the elevators because the
most rear horn hits the rear bulk head just as it reaches the stop. ( 4
degrees short) Consequently taking anymore off the stop is not going to
help. Is it OK to trim away some of the lower horn to get a few more degrees
of travel? Anybody else run into this?
>
>
> Richard
>
>
> RV-7A QB
>
>
> Getting married? Find great tips, tools and the latest trends at MSN Life
Events.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kathleen (rv7)" <Kathleen(at)rv7.us> |
| Subject: | Elevator horn travel limit |
OK, so I got myself confused with the "elevator goes up, horn goes down"
thing. I still think you only need to notch out the HS-603PP....
Kathleen,
www.rv7.us
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Suffoletto
Subject: RV-List: Elevator horn travel limit
-->
I am not able to get the necessary up travel on the elevators because the
most rear horn hits the rear bulk head just as it reaches the stop. ( 4
degrees short) Consequently taking anymore off the stop is not going to
help. Is it OK to trim away some of the lower horn to get a few more degrees
of travel? Anybody else run into this?
Richard
RV-7A QB
Getting married? Find great tips, tools and the latest trends at MSN Life
Events.
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Elevator horn travel limit |
| From: | James Ashford <jashford(at)ashcreekwireless.com> |
Richard,
I had to do the same-trim the horn a bit where it contacted the
bulkhead in order to get the req'd. travel. Very little trimming is
required.
Jim Ashford
RV 7 N713RV
On Thursday, June 17, 2004, at 03:33 PM, Richard Suffoletto wrote:
>
>
>
> I am not able to get the necessary up travel on the elevators because
> the most rear horn hits the rear bulk head just as it reaches the
> stop. ( 4 degrees short) Consequently taking anymore off the stop is
> not going to help. Is it OK to trim away some of the lower horn to get
> a few more degrees of travel? Anybody else run into this?
>
>
> Richard
>
>
> RV-7A QB
>
>
> Getting married? Find great tips, tools and the latest trends at MSN
> Life Events.
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Anglin" <jlanglin44(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Garmin/Navaid interface |
I am having trouble figuring out which pin goes to which pin to navigate
with input from my Garmin GNC 300XL to my Navaid autopilot. If anyone out
there has some positive input I will listen. I have the Smart Coupler in my
autopilot if that helps.
Jim Anglin
HR II
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Replacement Viton Brake O-Rings |
In a message dated 6/16/2004 6:58:41 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
lhelming(at)sigecom.net writes:
Would you mind very much to make another posting to me or to the list and
identify the part number and where you purchase the replacement Viton O-Rings.
I see from some previous postings a company reference, but no part number.
===========================================
Actually, I'm slow in responding here because I'm unsure of exactly what
O-ring goes where. You see, four years ago I bought a bunch of O-rings for a
variety of applications on the same invoice. The various O-rings on the
invoice are:
2-006V-75
2-010V-75
2-113V-75
2-216V-75
2-218V-75
I believe that the smaller numbered seals are for inside the master
cylinders and the caliper O-ring is one of the last two P/Ns listed. In 2000
I
noticed during the preflight that my buna-n (nitrile std) caliper O-rings were
seeping/leaking on the ramp at Henderson, NV after two years of flying (FYI, I
have parking brakes). I managed to get home to LVK without a problem, but
when I pulled them, I could see that they clearly had suffered heat distress and
were taking a square set. Viton ones have been working for four years with
zero problems.
Their phone is 408-727-3995. I hope this helps.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 701 hrs; last trip, Sedona)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator horn travel limit |
Silly question - how are you measuring the angle for travel?
If you put a "smart tool" or equivalent level on the
elevator directly, you will be measuring a lesser
angle than the real travel. I did this for a while
trying to figure out how to get the required travel,
until I went "duh!"
If your plane is level, then putting the "smart tool" near
the counter balance weights is better, or you can level
the elevator, measure the angle, and then measure the
angle with full travel.
Mickey
>I am not able to get the necessary up travel on the elevators
>because the most rear horn hits the rear bulk head just as it
>reaches the stop. ( 4 degrees short) Consequently taking anymore
>off the stop is not going to help. Is it OK to trim away some of
>the lower horn to get a few more degrees of travel? Anybody else run into this?
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator horn travel limit |
Unless I'm missing something, I don't get your logic. If you put a digital
protractor on the surface of the elevator (*anywhere* on the surface), take
a "neutral" reading, and then take the reading at both extremes of travel,
you can determine the angular deflection that way.
The protractor doesn't have to be on the elevator's chord-wise centerline to
be accurate. The top skin on the elevator, for example, is at a *fixed*
relative angle relative to the centerline. If the elevator is deflected 9
degrees upward, the top skin would likewise be deflected 9 degrees.
I could be on crack, however...so correct me if I'm wrong! 8-)
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Elevator horn travel limit
>
> Silly question - how are you measuring the angle for travel?
>
> If you put a "smart tool" or equivalent level on the
> elevator directly, you will be measuring a lesser
> angle than the real travel. I did this for a while
> trying to figure out how to get the required travel,
> until I went "duh!"
>
> If your plane is level, then putting the "smart tool" near
> the counter balance weights is better, or you can level
> the elevator, measure the angle, and then measure the
> angle with full travel.
>
> Mickey
>
>
> >I am not able to get the necessary up travel on the elevators
> >because the most rear horn hits the rear bulk head just as it
> >reaches the stop. ( 4 degrees short) Consequently taking anymore
> >off the stop is not going to help. Is it OK to trim away some of
> >the lower horn to get a few more degrees of travel? Anybody else run into
this?
>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator horn travel limit |
You are right. If you are on crack, it's better than mine.
When I first did it, I was not measuring deflection, but
the angle of the elevator when at the full up position.
I wasn't taking into account the shape of the elevator,
which reduces the absolute angle of the smart tool reading.
What I suggested, with pretty bad wording, is to do what
you said - put the elevator in the neutral position,
take a reading, deflect the elevator, and read again.
Use complex mathematics to compute the angle deflected.
This is probably so totally obvious to everyone but me
that I should not have mentioned it!
Mickey
>Unless I'm missing something, I don't get your logic. If you put a digital
>protractor on the surface of the elevator (*anywhere* on the surface), take
>a "neutral" reading, and then take the reading at both extremes of travel,
>you can determine the angular deflection that way.
>
>The protractor doesn't have to be on the elevator's chord-wise centerline to
>be accurate. The top skin on the elevator, for example, is at a *fixed*
>relative angle relative to the centerline. If the elevator is deflected 9
>degrees upward, the top skin would likewise be deflected 9 degrees.
>
>I could be on crack, however...so correct me if I'm wrong! 8-)
>
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
>> Silly question - how are you measuring the angle for travel?
>>
>> If you put a "smart tool" or equivalent level on the
>> elevator directly, you will be measuring a lesser
>> angle than the real travel. I did this for a while
>> trying to figure out how to get the required travel,
>> until I went "duh!"
>>
>> If your plane is level, then putting the "smart tool" near
>> the counter balance weights is better, or you can level
>> the elevator, measure the angle, and then measure the
>> angle with full travel.
>>
>> Mickey
>>
>>
>>>I am not able to get the necessary up travel on the elevators
>>>because the most rear horn hits the rear bulk head just as it
>>>reaches the stop. ( 4 degrees short) Consequently taking anymore
>>>off the stop is not going to help. Is it OK to trim away some of
>>>the lower horn to get a few more degrees of travel? Anybody else
>>>run into this?
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | eregensburg(at)triad.rr.com |
| Subject: | RV 6A FOR SALE !! IFR Certified and more !! |
yankeerv10(at)yahoo.com.0.8.MANY_EXCLAMATIONS.Subject.has.many.exclamations
I am selling my RV6A. Price $69,500
1992 RV6A TTSN 2590, SMOH 1151, Lyc O320 fixed Sensinch prop,
KA134 audio panel, Approach certified Garmin 300XL GPS/Com w/ extra card and
subscription for updates thru 1/2005, KX125 Nav/Com, AT 150 Transponder w/ altitude,
KR86 ADF, Singtronix, SPA 400 intercom w/ music plug in, Digital tach, CHT,
Oil
Temp/pressure, heated pitot and more. BUILT TO FLY IFR !!
----- Original Message -----
From: C P <yankeerv10(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Thursday, June 17, 2004 7:52 am
Subject: RV-List: WTB RV 6/6A/7/7A
>
> Hi,
>
> A friend of mine I took to the New England wing of Van's Air
> Force fly-in last week is hot to trot to buy a 6/6A/7/7A! He was
> all set to buy his third Yak but fell in love with the RV's.
> Please, if you know of someone selling, pass on some contact
> info?! He's got cash burning a hole in his pocket!
>
> thanks,
> Chuck Packard
> YankeeRV10(at)yahoo.com
>
>
>
> __________________________________
> http://mobile.yahoo.com/maildemo
>
>
> _-
> _-
> _-
> _-
> =======================================================================
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Minimum Hours for Insurance |
| From: | "Jamie Painter" <jdpainter(at)jpainter.org> |
Fellow Listers:
Since I haven't seen this topic come up on the list for a while and since
it's always changing, I feel now would be a good time to discuss it...the
dreaded 'I' word.
I'm a low time pilot (70 hours) with no advanced ratings, etc. I've been
told by several builders that I will need around 300 hours of
incident-free total time to make my insurance affordable (i.e. there's a
HUGE premium break @ 300 hrs). I contacted the NationAir folks selling
the VanGuard policies and was told that there is only a very slight
premium break ($200/yr at greater than 200 hours).
Do these numbers reflect your experiences? If so, why have I been hearing
this 300 hour number everywhere? Have you low-time flyers found it
difficult to get insured (hull & liability)?
Kind Regards,
Jamie
--
Jamie D. Painter
RV-7A wings N622JP (reserved)
http://rv.jpainter.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Minimum Hours for Insurance |
Jamie...
When I started flying my -8A I had a total of about 90 hours... I have the
standard liability limits and $51K hull and my premium was about $1400 for
the first year... JT at Nationair told me I would get a break at 200 hrs TT
and I did, my premium is about $1200 now... These numbers are close, but I
don't have the exact amounts right in from of me...
All I needed was a signoff in my logbook to be insured on the first flight,
no minimum hours...
Call JT and he will give you all the details:
John (JT) Helms
Nationair
877 475 5860.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jamie Painter" <jdpainter(at)jpainter.org>
Subject: RV-List: Minimum Hours for Insurance
Fellow Listers:
Since I haven't seen this topic come up on the list for a while and since
it's always changing, I feel now would be a good time to discuss it...the
dreaded 'I' word.
I'm a low time pilot (70 hours) with no advanced ratings, etc. I've been
told by several builders that I will need around 300 hours of
incident-free total time to make my insurance affordable (i.e. there's a
HUGE premium break @ 300 hrs). I contacted the NationAir folks selling
the VanGuard policies and was told that there is only a very slight
premium break ($200/yr at greater than 200 hours).
Do these numbers reflect your experiences? If so, why have I been hearing
this 300 hour number everywhere? Have you low-time flyers found it
difficult to get insured (hull & liability)?
Kind Regards,
Jamie
--
Jamie D. Painter
RV-7A wings N622JP (reserved)
http://rv.jpainter.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Minimum Hours for Insurance |
Hi All,
In talking to my insurance agent, I asked for a quote without the medical
coverage.
On my policy, the medical provided $1,000 of coverage. Basically, ambulance
and ER up to $1,000. It turns out it cost me $300 a year for this coverage.
And coverage did not apply for the owner.
If you can cover $1,000 of medical expenses yourself (self insured), you
might ask for a quote without medical coverage. Medical coverage seems to be
automatically included.
Jim Ayers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David E. Nelson" <david.nelson(at)pobox.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator horn travel limit |
Hi Richard,
If memory serves me right (which is questionable sometimes), there is a note in
the that you should _NOT_ notch the elevator horns. Could you possibly adjust
your rod-end bearings a little outward to gain some more movement?
Regards,
/\/elson
Austin, TX
RV-7A
On Thu, 17 Jun 2004, Richard Suffoletto wrote:
>
>
> I am not able to get the necessary up travel on the elevators because the
> most rear horn hits the rear bulk head just as it reaches the stop. ( 4
> degrees short) Consequently taking anymore off the stop is not going to help.
> Is it OK to trim away some of the lower horn to get a few more degrees of
> travel? Anybody else run into this?
>
>
> Richard
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Minimum Hours for Insurance |
My rule of thumb: If "everyone says" it, it is probably inaccurate.
Call JT. You can take what he tells you to the bank.
Denis (we all had 70 hours once.)
On Jun 18, 2004, at 7:26 AM, Bill VonDane wrote:
>
> Jamie...
>
> When I started flying my -8A I had a total of about 90 hours... I
> have the
> standard liability limits and $51K hull and my premium was about $1400
> for
> the first year... JT at Nationair told me I would get a break at 200
> hrs TT
> and I did, my premium is about $1200 now... These numbers are close,
> but I
> don't have the exact amounts right in from of me...
>
> All I needed was a signoff in my logbook to be insured on the first
> flight,
> no minimum hours...
>
> Call JT and he will give you all the details:
>
> John (JT) Helms
> Nationair
> 877 475 5860.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jamie Painter" <jdpainter(at)jpainter.org>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Minimum Hours for Insurance
>
>
> Fellow Listers:
>
> Since I haven't seen this topic come up on the list for a while and
> since
> it's always changing, I feel now would be a good time to discuss
> it...the
> dreaded 'I' word.
>
> I'm a low time pilot (70 hours) with no advanced ratings, etc. I've
> been
> told by several builders that I will need around 300 hours of
> incident-free total time to make my insurance affordable (i.e. there's
> a
> HUGE premium break @ 300 hrs). I contacted the NationAir folks selling
> the VanGuard policies and was told that there is only a very slight
> premium break ($200/yr at greater than 200 hours).
>
> Do these numbers reflect your experiences? If so, why have I been
> hearing
> this 300 hour number everywhere? Have you low-time flyers found it
> difficult to get insured (hull & liability)?
>
> Kind Regards,
>
> Jamie
>
> --
> Jamie D. Painter
> RV-7A wings N622JP (reserved)
> http://rv.jpainter.org
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Minimum Hours for Insurance |
Jim,
I think you should check again with your agent as to what you have now and exactly
what it is you've asked him to remove. $300 sounds more like the total cost
for all of the liability coverages (with the medical payments thrown in for
free).
All the companies that we work with (all but AVEMCO the direct writer) include
medical payments for FREE at some level (the lowest being $1000 and the norm being
$3000). You aren't charged for it at all, it comes free with the purchase
of liability coverages. The companies want those medical payment limits on
the policy and normally won't remove them.
The medical payments limit is designed to be an 'easy to get' coverage for someone
who is injured in some minor way (twisted ankle exiting the plane) to get
an ambulance ride and ER visit without having to file a lawsuit against you.
You don't want the coverage to be too high or it becomes a target. If someone
is severely injured or killed then the liability section is still there to protect
you from that more severe liability. If the medical payments limit were
removed, then even the most minor claim would be much harder to handle.
While you are correct that the LIABILITY coverages do not include you, the medical
payments do include you as a crewmember. You have purchased the liability
coverages to defend yourself from lawsuits from others whose property you've
damaged or who've sustained bodily injury due to your ownership/operation of your
plane. But, you too would want coverage under the policy if you break your
hand by closing the canopy on it. I've actually had a claim like that, and
the company paid the limit of the medical payments out for that individual.
JT
----- Original Message -----
From: LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, June 18, 2004 8:39 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Minimum Hours for Insurance
Hi All,
In talking to my insurance agent, I asked for a quote without the medical
coverage.
On my policy, the medical provided $1,000 of coverage. Basically, ambulance
and ER up to $1,000. It turns out it cost me $300 a year for this coverage.
And coverage did not apply for the owner.
If you can cover $1,000 of medical expenses yourself (self insured), you
might ask for a quote without medical coverage. Medical coverage seems to be
automatically included.
Jim Ayers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Minimum Hours for Insurance |
In a message dated 06/18/2004 7:11:08 AM Pacific Daylight Time, jhelms(at)i1.net
writes:
Jim,
I think you should check again with your agent as to what you have now and
exactly what it is you've asked him to remove. $300 sounds more like the total
cost for all of the liability coverages (with the medical payments thrown in
for free).
I did check. I don't have hull insurance, just $1,000,000 liability. $190
per year.
Medical coverage was $300 additional.
I'm sorry if you find it difficult to believe. Ask for a quote to see for
yourself.
Jim Ayers
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-6/7 Fire Extinguisher Location |
Where are people mouting the fire extinguisher in the RV-6/7? I can't seem to
find a good place. Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
vansairforce(at)yahoogroups.com
| Subject: | RV-6/7 Oxygen Mounting Location |
For people using oxygen, where and how are you mounting it. I was hoping to put
it right behind the passenger seat between the seat belt tie downs, but it is
too big with the electric flaps. Just wondering what other ideas others have
had.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Minimum Hours for Insurance |
I have no clue whom you are insured with. I would love to know. And I will ask
your insurer for a hypothetical case similar to yours and report my findings
back to this forum to clear this up.
You are confused, though. It isn't that I find what you've said hard to believe,
it's that I know that what you've stated is not true with regards to any 'A'
or better rated insurance company that does business in the US. (There actually
aren't any 'B' or lower rated companies operating in aviation insurance that
I am aware of at the moment, nor would I advise anyone to use one rated that
low.)
I work with every aviation insurance company available (except AVEMCO, but I'm
familiar enough with them.) It sounds as if you are insured by AIG or AVEMCO.
The other carriers have minimum premiums of $400 or more.
AIG's liability coverages come with $1000 of med pay for free. You can't take
it off of the policy. Increasing from $1000 to $3000 only costs $24 for a four
place plane normally so, there is no way that their cost for the $1000 is $300.
AVEMCO I believe automatically includes $3000 of med pay.
JT
----- Original Message -----
From: LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, June 18, 2004 9:28 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Minimum Hours for Insurance
In a message dated 06/18/2004 7:11:08 AM Pacific Daylight Time, jhelms(at)i1.net
writes:
Jim,
I think you should check again with your agent as to what you have now and
exactly what it is you've asked him to remove. $300 sounds more like the total
cost for all of the liability coverages (with the medical payments thrown in
for free).
I did check. I don't have hull insurance, just $1,000,000 liability. $190
per year.
Medical coverage was $300 additional.
I'm sorry if you find it difficult to believe. Ask for a quote to see for
yourself.
Jim Ayers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Replacement Viton Brake O-Rings |
The MS replacement for the caliper o-rings is MS28775-218.....
So I'm guessing that the correct Viton o-ring would be 2-218V-75
Gary, I see the phone #, but who what was the name of your supplier?
Laird
On Jun 17, 2004, at 9:56 PM, Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 6/16/2004 6:58:41 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> lhelming(at)sigecom.net writes:
>
> Would you mind very much to make another posting to me or to the list
> and
> identify the part number and where you purchase the replacement Viton
> O-Rings.
> I see from some previous postings a company reference, but no part
> number.
>
>
> ===========================================
>
> Actually, I'm slow in responding here because I'm unsure of exactly
> what
> O-ring goes where. You see, four years ago I bought a bunch of
> O-rings for a
> variety of applications on the same invoice. The various O-rings on
> the
> invoice are:
>
> 2-006V-75
> 2-010V-75
> 2-113V-75
> 2-216V-75
> 2-218V-75
>
> I believe that the smaller numbered seals are for inside the master
> cylinders and the caliper O-ring is one of the last two P/Ns listed.
> In 2000 I
> noticed during the preflight that my buna-n (nitrile std) caliper
> O-rings were
> seeping/leaking on the ramp at Henderson, NV after two years of
> flying (FYI, I
> have parking brakes). I managed to get home to LVK without a
> problem, but
> when I pulled them, I could see that they clearly had suffered heat
> distress and
> were taking a square set. Viton ones have been working for four
> years with
> zero problems.
>
> Their phone is 408-727-3995. I hope this helps.
>
> GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 701 hrs; last trip, Sedona)
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin/Navaid interface |
Hi Jim,
See the page 7 in your Navaid manual for Fig. 3. In my manual there are 2
page 7's and 2 Fig. 3's! You want the one titled "WIRING DIAGRAM FOR HAND-HELD
GPS AND AP-1 WITH GPS COUPLER." It shows the Data Out pin of the GPS going to
pin 8 of the Autopilot. Ground of the GPS also needs to go to ground of the
Autopilot (pin 1). You also need to connect 2 jumpers: one from pin 11 to pin
3, and one from pin 12 to pin 6. The pins on the GPS you can find in your
GPS manual or on the internet by searching for "Garmin connector." I used a
twisted pair of wires to make the connection.
A Garmin connector is avaliable at pfranc.com that is only $5 if your GNC
300XL has the same connector as the Garmin 295.
You will need to go to the interface screen on the GPS and enable the NMEA
output. This causes the GPS to send serial (ASCII) data which the Smart Coupler
receives and converts to an analog voltage which comes out pins 11 and 12,
and goes back into pins 3 and 6.
Hope this helps,
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (Taxi testing & waiting for inspection)
In a message dated 6/17/04 11:49:51 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
jlanglin44(at)earthlink.net writes:
>
>
> I am having trouble figuring out which pin goes to which pin to navigate
> with input from my Garmin GNC 300XL to my Navaid autopilot. If anyone out
> there has some positive input I will listen. I have the Smart Coupler in my
> autopilot if that helps.
>
> Jim Anglin
> HR II
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)warpdriveonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6/7 Oxygen Mounting Location |
>
> For people using oxygen, where and how are you mounting it.
Vertically on the rear of the electric flap box. The regulator extends up
above the seats and is accessible during flight.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://n5lp.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Replacement Viton Brake O-Rings |
Hi,
Just stick the phone number into Google, and you will
find that it is:
Ace Seal Inc, (408) 727-3995, 2065 Martin Ave, Santa Clara, CA 95050
Mickey
At 17:40 18-06-04, Laird Owens wrote:
-----Start of Original Message-----
>
>The MS replacement for the caliper o-rings is MS28775-218.....
>
>So I'm guessing that the correct Viton o-ring would be 2-218V-75
>
>Gary, I see the phone #, but who what was the name of your supplier?
>
>Laird
>
>On Jun 17, 2004, at 9:56 PM, Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> In a message dated 6/16/2004 6:58:41 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
>> lhelming(at)sigecom.net writes:
>>
>> Would you mind very much to make another posting to me or to the list
>> and
>> identify the part number and where you purchase the replacement Viton
>> O-Rings.
>> I see from some previous postings a company reference, but no part
>> number.
>>
>>
>> ===========================================
>>
>> Actually, I'm slow in responding here because I'm unsure of exactly
>> what
>> O-ring goes where. You see, four years ago I bought a bunch of
>> O-rings for a
>> variety of applications on the same invoice. The various O-rings on
>> the
>> invoice are:
>>
>> 2-006V-75
>> 2-010V-75
>> 2-113V-75
>> 2-216V-75
>> 2-218V-75
>>
>> I believe that the smaller numbered seals are for inside the master
>> cylinders and the caliper O-ring is one of the last two P/Ns listed.
>> In 2000 I
>> noticed during the preflight that my buna-n (nitrile std) caliper
>> O-rings were
>> seeping/leaking on the ramp at Henderson, NV after two years of
>> flying (FYI, I
>> have parking brakes). I managed to get home to LVK without a
>> problem, but
>> when I pulled them, I could see that they clearly had suffered heat
>> distress and
>> were taking a square set. Viton ones have been working for four
>> years with
>> zero problems.
>>
>> Their phone is 408-727-3995. I hope this helps.
>>
>> GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 701 hrs; last trip, Sedona)
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
rv7-list(at)matronics.com, RV7and7A(at)yahoogroups.com,
vansairforce(at)yahoogroups.com
| From: | ronlee(at)pcisys.net |
| Subject: | Re: [VAF Mailing List] RV-6/7 Oxygen Mounting Location |
I made another metal sheet that goes over the removeable metal that covers
the flap actuating mechanism (first panel behind seat at bottom). Then I
mounted the Aerox brackets to that piece. The bottle is mounted
vertically and can be reached by the pilot and easily removed for filling.
I will take a pictures of it when I get home and post it for you.
Ron
Lee
---------------------------------------------
This message was sent using Endymion MailMan.
http://www.endymion.com/products/mailman/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6/7 Oxygen Mounting Location |
I put mine in the aft right corner. Seems to take up less valuable
space then on the flap box, and I can still get to the handle in
flight.
Be sure where ever you put it that the mounting is secure enough that
in an off field landing (20-30g's ? in a sudden stop) that the bottle
can't get loose and become a projectile....ie, if you put a force of
200 lbs on it, would it break loose? I've seen some mounting where I
don't think it would stand that test.
Be safe.
Laird
On Jun 18, 2004, at 8:27 AM, Larry Pardue wrote:
>
>
>
>>
>> For people using oxygen, where and how are you mounting it.
>
> Vertically on the rear of the electric flap box. The regulator
> extends up
> above the seats and is accessible during flight.
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
>
> RV-6 N441LP Flying
> http://n5lp.net
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Suffoletto" <rsuffoletto(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Elevator travel-Triming horn |
Thanks to all who responded to my question on elevator travel. I queried Van's
at the same time and here is their response on triming the elevator horn.
"Yes. The horn may be trimmed to within about 1/2" of the pushrod bolt, although
it probably won't need that much."
On my 7A the most aft elevator horn was also ~ 1/8 inch longer than the other horn.
I'm sure this contributed to the limit on up elevator travel.
Thanks
Richard
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Birkelbach <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator horn travel limit |
My elevator horn hits the bulkhead right at the required up travel, so I
got lucky. I called Van's to make sure that it was okay that the horn
hit the bulkhead before it hit the stop and they were not worried about
it but they did want to make sure that I had the required up travel.
I suspect that you could trim a little on the horns, just make sure that
you don't cut into the 'flanges' and be sure that the edge distances
are okay. I would also call Van's and double check.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Panel
http://www.myrv7.com
Richard Suffoletto wrote:
>
>
>I am not able to get the necessary up travel on the elevators because the most
rear horn hits the rear bulk head just as it reaches the stop. ( 4 degrees short)
Consequently taking anymore off the stop is not going to help. Is it OK to
trim away some of the lower horn to get a few more degrees of travel? Anybody
else run into this?
>
>
>Richard
>
>
>RV-7A QB
>
>
> Getting married? Find great tips, tools and the latest trends at MSN Life Events.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Philip Condon" <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
We are using a elect powered tow bar on a RV and Bonanza
that is fantastic. It uses a DeWalt elect drill as the power unit and can
push the Bonanza around all day (about 3 to 4 months) between charges, Great
quality unit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)excelgeo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Tow Bar |
Now the obvious. Who makes it and where can one be got
Gary
Philip Condon wrote:
>
> We are using a elect powered tow bar on a RV and Bonanza
> that is fantastic. It uses a DeWalt elect drill as the power unit and can
> push the Bonanza around all day (about 3 to 4 months) between charges, Great
> quality unit.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Schlotthauer" <rv7maker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Minimum Hours for Insurance |
Jamie,
I am a fellow "low timer" and I have had the NationAir builders risk policy
for several years. I was told a couple of days ago by my agent; that my
yearly rate would be about $2400 until I hit 300 hours total time. It then
will go down a little and then some more when I hit 500 TT and 300 in type.
I don't know the reduction in premium at 300 but at 500 it goes down about
700 bucks. I think it is easy to insure an RV if you are well heeled.
For $2400 per year a guy could fly a rental 172 around for 40 hours and have
a wife that will still let him sleep in the bedroom. In hind sight....I'd
still build the RV!
Ross
RV-7 finishing in Idaho
>From: "Jamie Painter" <jdpainter(at)jpainter.org>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Minimum Hours for Insurance
>Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2004 09:03:19 -0400 (EDT)
>
>
>Fellow Listers:
>
>Since I haven't seen this topic come up on the list for a while and since
>it's always changing, I feel now would be a good time to discuss it...the
>dreaded 'I' word.
>
>I'm a low time pilot (70 hours) with no advanced ratings, etc. I've been
>told by several builders that I will need around 300 hours of
>incident-free total time to make my insurance affordable (i.e. there's a
>HUGE premium break @ 300 hrs). I contacted the NationAir folks selling
>the VanGuard policies and was told that there is only a very slight
>premium break ($200/yr at greater than 200 hours).
>
>Do these numbers reflect your experiences? If so, why have I been hearing
>this 300 hour number everywhere? Have you low-time flyers found it
>difficult to get insured (hull & liability)?
>
>Kind Regards,
>
>Jamie
>
>--
>Jamie D. Painter
>RV-7A wings N622JP (reserved)
>http://rv.jpainter.org
>
>
http://join.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200362ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel lube source... |
Can anyone point me to a current source of Fuel Lube? The real stuff,
not the 'EZ Turn' product that seems to have taken its place everywhere.
Love that peanut butter... :-)
Regards,
Ken Balch
RV-8 N118KB
M-12 N612KB (finishing lower left wing)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kathleen (rv7)" <Kathleen(at)rv7.us> |
| Subject: | Elevator horn travel limit |
OK Phil, I must be confused about what you guys are discussing. According
to the builders' manual, "It will probably be necessary to remove the bottom
flange of the HS-603PP to allow the elevator horns enough swing." On my
DWG-3 (of the HS) it says, pointing to the lower flange, "Trim HS rear spar
to allow elevator horns to pivot forward and contact the elevator 'down'
control stop."
Nowhere does it say anything about trimming the horns. Are you talking
about something else or making the case that the plans are wrong?
Kathleen,
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phil Birkelbach
Subject: Re: RV-List: Elevator horn travel limit
My elevator horn hits the bulkhead right at the required up travel, so I got
lucky. I called Van's to make sure that it was okay that the horn hit the
bulkhead before it hit the stop and they were not worried about it but they
did want to make sure that I had the required up travel.
I suspect that you could trim a little on the horns, just make sure that you
don't cut into the 'flanges' and be sure that the edge distances are okay.
I would also call Van's and double check.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Panel
http://www.myrv7.com
Richard Suffoletto wrote:
>-->
>
>
>I am not able to get the necessary up travel on the elevators because the
most rear horn hits the rear bulk head just as it reaches the stop. ( 4
degrees short) Consequently taking anymore off the stop is not going to
help. Is it OK to trim away some of the lower horn to get a few more degrees
of travel? Anybody else run into this?
>
>
>Richard
>
>
>RV-7A QB
>
>
> Getting married? Find great tips, tools and the latest trends at MSN Life
Events.
>
>
>
>
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Minimum Hours for Insurance |
In a message dated 06/18/2004 12:35:22 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
jhelms(at)i1.net writes:
Rob, you know what... thank you. You're correct.
I've been so defensive that my mind has not been clear to fully analyze what
Jim has been saying. When I read YOUR post, it hit me what Jim likely has
been talking about. While he hasn't been using the correct insurance term
Yes. How stupid of me to use the wrong insurance term.
This is exactly why I am NOT willing to share what I have learned about
performance improvement with the LIST.
There is ALWAYS someone VERY WILLING to CRITICIZE before they think.
Jim Ayers
Less Drag Products, Inc.
RV-3 N47RV 125 hp = RV-3 N51RV 160 hp
You figure out how to make a 35 hp difference in performance. I'm not
talking!!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vic Jacko" <vicwj(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Minimum Hours for Insurance |
Jim, I for one want your opinions. If anyone in the future criticizes you
we will form a squadron and drop flower bags on his house, swimming pool and
hanger!
Vic
A thirst for knowledge that exceeds my desire for almost any thing else
except ---
----- Original Message -----
From: <LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Minimum Hours for Insurance
>
> In a message dated 06/18/2004 12:35:22 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> jhelms(at)i1.net writes:
>
> Rob, you know what... thank you. You're correct.
>
> I've been so defensive that my mind has not been clear to fully analyze
what
> Jim has been saying. When I read YOUR post, it hit me what Jim likely has
> been talking about. While he hasn't been using the correct insurance term
>
> Yes. How stupid of me to use the wrong insurance term.
>
> This is exactly why I am NOT willing to share what I have learned about
> performance improvement with the LIST.
>
> There is ALWAYS someone VERY WILLING to CRITICIZE before they think.
>
> Jim Ayers
> Less Drag Products, Inc.
> RV-3 N47RV 125 hp = RV-3 N51RV 160 hp
> You figure out how to make a 35 hp difference in performance. I'm not
> talking!!!!!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Minimum Hours for Insurance |
Wow. You use the wrong term, and I'm to blame. That's new.
Hope the list learned a lesson about dealing with you. I was right all along,
and you cannot admit it. At least I admitted that my mind wasn't open enough
initially to see that you were merely using the wrong term.
If you look back at my original posts, I asked that you verify it with your agent,
but you insisted you had and that you were correct (which you weren't by the
way.)
Perhaps you could have said, "Wow, you are right, I mispoke. There is medical pay
on my policy. I was talking about passenger liability."
How do you feel about your advice to other builders to call and get med pay removed
from their policy? I'm sure glad I was paying attention to the list today.
I hope I saved all my customers, my receptionist and myself 1000 phonecalls.
JT
----- Original Message -----
From: LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, June 18, 2004 4:03 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Minimum Hours for Insurance
In a message dated 06/18/2004 12:35:22 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
jhelms(at)i1.net writes:
Rob, you know what... thank you. You're correct.
I've been so defensive that my mind has not been clear to fully analyze what
Jim has been saying. When I read YOUR post, it hit me what Jim likely has
been talking about. While he hasn't been using the correct insurance term
Yes. How stupid of me to use the wrong insurance term.
This is exactly why I am NOT willing to share what I have learned about
performance improvement with the LIST.
There is ALWAYS someone VERY WILLING to CRITICIZE before they think.
Jim Ayers
Less Drag Products, Inc.
RV-3 N47RV 125 hp RV-3 N51RV 160 hp
You figure out how to make a 35 hp difference in performance. I'm not
talking!!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Elevator horn travel limit |
Kathleen,
You simply CANNOT assume that just because a potential
issue isn't mentioned in the builder's manual, then it
must be a non existent problem in the real world.
Van's builder's manual is simply meant to be a general
guide for construction, and while it will point out
some potential issues, many many others go completely
unmentioned.
When you begin actually building "the rest" of your
kit, you will quickly find that the builder's manual
is much less detailed for the wings and fuse than it
was for the empennage.
Skylor
RV-8 QB
Under Construction
N808SJ Reserved
--- "Kathleen (rv7)" wrote:
>
>
> OK Phil, I must be confused about what you guys are
> discussing. According
> to the builders' manual, "It will probably be
> necessary to remove the bottom
> flange of the HS-603PP to allow the elevator horns
> enough swing." On my
> DWG-3 (of the HS) it says, pointing to the lower
> flange, "Trim HS rear spar
> to allow elevator horns to pivot forward and contact
> the elevator 'down'
> control stop."
>
> Nowhere does it say anything about trimming the
> horns. Are you talking
> about something else or making the case that the
> plans are wrong?
>
> Kathleen,
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Phil Birkelbach
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Elevator horn travel limit
>
>
>
> My elevator horn hits the bulkhead right at the
> required up travel, so I got
> lucky. I called Van's to make sure that it was okay
> that the horn hit the
> bulkhead before it hit the stop and they were not
> worried about it but they
> did want to make sure that I had the required up
> travel.
>
> I suspect that you could trim a little on the horns,
> just make sure that you
> don't cut into the 'flanges' and be sure that the
> edge distances are okay.
> I would also call Van's and double check.
>
> Godspeed,
>
> Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
> RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Panel
> http://www.myrv7.com
>
>
> Richard Suffoletto wrote:
>
>
> >-->
> >
> >
> >I am not able to get the necessary up travel on the
> elevators because the
> most rear horn hits the rear bulk head just as it
> reaches the stop. ( 4
> degrees short) Consequently taking anymore off the
> stop is not going to
> help. Is it OK to trim away some of the lower horn
> to get a few more degrees
> of travel? Anybody else run into this?
> >
> >
> >Richard
> >
> >
> >RV-7A QB
> >
> >
> > Getting married? Find great tips, tools and the
> latest trends at MSN Life
> Events.
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> advertising on the Matronics Forums.
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Geoff Evans <hellothaimassage(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | rv-8 switch locations |
From what I can tell, there seems to be about an even split between people
who have put light switches on the right side console and people who have put
them somewhere on the instrument panel.
I'm looking for feedback from people with completed and flying RV-8/8As. Did
you put switches on that right side console, or did you put them on the
forward panel? Did you wish you had done it differently? What do you see as
the good and bad points of your chosen mounting location?
I'm trying to decide whether or not to use that right side switch console for
switches, and I'm looking for some pros and cons.
Thanks.
-Geoff
RV-8 QB
__________________________________
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel lube source... |
Got mine from Aircraft Spruce.
----- Original Message -----
From: Ken Balch
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, June 18, 2004 3:49 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fuel lube source...
Can anyone point me to a current source of Fuel Lube? The real stuff,
not the 'EZ Turn' product that seems to have taken its place everywhere.
Love that peanut butter... :-)
Regards,
Ken Balch
RV-8 N118KB
M-12 N612KB (finishing lower left wing)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Minimum Hours for Insurance |
In a message dated 6/18/2004 4:06:39 PM Central Standard Time,
LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com writes:
Jim Ayers
Less Drag Products, Inc.
RV-3 N47RV 125 hp = RV-3 N51RV 160 hp
You figure out how to make a 35 hp difference in performance. I'm not
talking!!!!!
Mr. Ayers, why don't u go join the groutchy old fart's forum....
Doug Preston
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Minimum Hours for Insurance |
In a message dated 06/18/2004 2:44:43 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com writes:
In a message dated 6/18/2004 4:06:39 PM Central Standard Time,
LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com writes:
Jim Ayers
Less Drag Products, Inc.
RV-3 N47RV 125 hp = RV-3 N51RV 160 hp
You figure out how to make a 35 hp difference in performance. I'm not
talking!!!!!
Mr. Ayers, why don't u go join the groutchy old fart's forum....
Doug Preston
How nice of you, Mr. Preston.
However, it's what I DON'T join that will make the difference.
BYE!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Streit <wooody04(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator horn travel limit |
You're not!!!!!
Dan Checkoway wrote:
>
>Unless I'm missing something, I don't get your logic. If you put a digital
>protractor on the surface of the elevator (*anywhere* on the surface), take
>a "neutral" reading, and then take the reading at both extremes of travel,
>you can determine the angular deflection that way.
>
>The protractor doesn't have to be on the elevator's chord-wise centerline to
>be accurate. The top skin on the elevator, for example, is at a *fixed*
>relative angle relative to the centerline. If the elevator is deflected 9
>degrees upward, the top skin would likewise be deflected 9 degrees.
>
>I could be on crack, however...so correct me if I'm wrong! 8-)
>
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Elevator horn travel limit
>
>
>
>
>>
>>Silly question - how are you measuring the angle for travel?
>>
>>If you put a "smart tool" or equivalent level on the
>>elevator directly, you will be measuring a lesser
>>angle than the real travel. I did this for a while
>>trying to figure out how to get the required travel,
>>until I went "duh!"
>>
>>If your plane is level, then putting the "smart tool" near
>>the counter balance weights is better, or you can level
>>the elevator, measure the angle, and then measure the
>>angle with full travel.
>>
>>Mickey
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>I am not able to get the necessary up travel on the elevators
>>>because the most rear horn hits the rear bulk head just as it
>>>reaches the stop. ( 4 degrees short) Consequently taking anymore
>>>off the stop is not going to help. Is it OK to trim away some of
>>>the lower horn to get a few more degrees of travel? Anybody else run into
>>>
>>>
>this?
>
>
>>--
>>Mickey Coggins
>>http://www.rv8.ch/
>>#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kathleen (rv7)" <Kathleen(at)rv7.us> |
| Subject: | Elevator horn travel limit |
Skylor,
That's great advice, but perhaps you missed the point that since the plans
seem to directly contradict what Phil was saying (don't cut into the
'flanges'), I was asking if the suggestion was to ignore the plans. You
didn't offer anything on that point, but I'm sure everyone will find your
advice on assumptions and the value of the plans as useful as I do.
So, at the risk of putting yourself on the spot, do you trim the flange or
not?
Kathleen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Skylor Piper
Subject: RE: RV-List: Elevator horn travel limit
Kathleen,
You simply CANNOT assume that just because a potential issue isn't mentioned
in the builder's manual, then it must be a non existent problem in the real
world.
Van's builder's manual is simply meant to be a general guide for
construction, and while it will point out some potential issues, many many
others go completely unmentioned.
When you begin actually building "the rest" of your kit, you will quickly
find that the builder's manual is much less detailed for the wings and fuse
than it was for the empennage.
Skylor
RV-8 QB
Under Construction
N808SJ Reserved
--- "Kathleen (rv7)" wrote:
>
>
> OK Phil, I must be confused about what you guys are discussing.
> According to the builders' manual, "It will probably be necessary to
> remove the bottom flange of the HS-603PP to allow the elevator horns
> enough swing." On my
> DWG-3 (of the HS) it says, pointing to the lower flange, "Trim HS rear
> spar to allow elevator horns to pivot forward and contact the elevator
> 'down'
> control stop."
>
> Nowhere does it say anything about trimming the horns. Are you
> talking about something else or making the case that the plans are
> wrong?
>
> Kathleen,
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phil
> Birkelbach
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Elevator horn travel limit
>
>
>
> My elevator horn hits the bulkhead right at the required up travel, so
> I got lucky. I called Van's to make sure that it was okay that the
> horn hit the bulkhead before it hit the stop and they were not worried
> about it but they did want to make sure that I had the required up
> travel.
>
> I suspect that you could trim a little on the horns, just make sure
> that you don't cut into the 'flanges' and be sure that the edge
> distances are okay.
> I would also call Van's and double check.
>
> Godspeed,
>
> Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
> RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Panel
> http://www.myrv7.com
>
>
> Richard Suffoletto wrote:
>
>
> >-->
> >
> >
> >I am not able to get the necessary up travel on the
> elevators because the
> most rear horn hits the rear bulk head just as it reaches the stop. (
> 4 degrees short) Consequently taking anymore off the stop is not going
> to help. Is it OK to trim away some of the lower horn to get a few
> more degrees of travel? Anybody else run into this?
> >
> >
> >Richard
> >
> >
> >RV-7A QB
> >
> >
> > Getting married? Find great tips, tools and the
> latest trends at MSN Life
> Events.
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> advertising on the Matronics Forums.
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Elevator horn travel limit |
I was really referring to these two quotes:
"Are you sure your problem is with "up"? Normally,
you must notch the
HS-603PP flange to get adequate down travel, but I
don't think there should
be any interference with up travel."
and
"According to the builders' manual,..."
FYI, The note on drawing 3 refers to clearancing the
HS-603PP flange to achieve required elevator DOWN
travel. Phil stated that his problem is lack of
required UP travel because the horn hits the bulkhead.
This is not addressed in the drawings & instructions.
This is probably an issue in Phil's case because of
Vans' often poorly aligned weldments.
--- "Kathleen (rv7)" wrote:
>
>
> Skylor,
> That's great advice, but perhaps you missed the
> point that since the plans
> seem to directly contradict what Phil was saying
> (don't cut into the
> 'flanges'), I was asking if the suggestion was to
> ignore the plans. You
> didn't offer anything on that point, but I'm sure
> everyone will find your
> advice on assumptions and the value of the plans as
> useful as I do.
>
> So, at the risk of putting yourself on the spot, do
> you trim the flange or
> not?
>
> Kathleen
>
__________________________________
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kathleen (rv7)" <Kathleen(at)rv7.us> |
| Subject: | Elevator horn travel limit |
Skylor, thanks for answering the question.
Kathleen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Skylor Piper
Subject: RE: RV-List: Elevator horn travel limit
I was really referring to these two quotes:
"Are you sure your problem is with "up"? Normally, you must notch the
HS-603PP flange to get adequate down travel, but I don't think there should
be any interference with up travel."
and
"According to the builders' manual,..."
FYI, The note on drawing 3 refers to clearancing the HS-603PP flange to
achieve required elevator DOWN travel. Phil stated that his problem is lack
of required UP travel because the horn hits the bulkhead.
This is not addressed in the drawings & instructions.
This is probably an issue in Phil's case because of Vans' often poorly
aligned weldments.
--- "Kathleen (rv7)" wrote:
>
>
> Skylor,
> That's great advice, but perhaps you missed the point that since the
> plans seem to directly contradict what Phil was saying (don't cut into
> the 'flanges'), I was asking if the suggestion was to ignore the
> plans. You didn't offer anything on that point, but I'm sure everyone
> will find your advice on assumptions and the value of the plans as
> useful as I do.
>
> So, at the risk of putting yourself on the spot, do you trim the
> flange or not?
>
> Kathleen
>
__________________________________
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Minimum Hours for Insurance |
In a message dated 6/18/2004 5:04:47 PM Central Standard Time,
LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com writes:
Jim Ayers
Less Drag Products, Inc.
RV-3 N47RV 125 hp = RV-3 N51RV 160 hp
You figure out how to make a 35 hp difference in performance. I'm not
talking!!!!!
Mr. Ayers, why don't u go join the groutchy old fart's forum....
Doug Preston
How nice of you, Mr. Preston.
However, it's what I DON'T join that will make the difference.
BYE!
GOOD RIDDANCE !
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Val INS422 vs Garmin 295 GPS |
I have just installed the Val Ins 422 (digital VOR gauge) in my RV6a. I was at
3000 ft msl and flying to our local VOR. The Garmin 295 said I need to fly 011
heading to get to the VOR which was 6 miles away. I then asked the Ins 422 to
find the bearing to the VOR. It said I need to fly 354 heading to the VOR.
I have tried several other directions and the difference is always 17 or 18 degrees
different from each other. The GPS always gets me to the VOR. My question
is "Should those two numbers be closer together or even the same?"
The VOR antenna is from Bob Archer in the wingtip.
Maybe I need to talk to someone at VAL, but since they are closed untill Monday,
I thought I would ask the RV-list.
Dan DeNeal
N256GD (156 hours)
________________________________________________________________________________
rv7-list(at)matronics.com, vansairforce(at)yahoogroups.com
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: [VAF Mailing List] RV-6/7 Oxygen Mounting Location |
Here are my pics. Note the doubled sheet aluminum that is riveted to
the original cover over the flap hinge area. Then the two clamps are
bolted through that assembly. Reinstall all original screws. Been installed
for a year with no problems.
Some pics may need to be turned 90% for correct orientation. I forgot!
In pic #2 you can see the lower portion of the passenger seat back metal.
http://home.pcisys.net/~ronlee/RV6A/Oxygen/O2Bottle1.jpg
http://home.pcisys.net/~ronlee/RV6A/Oxygen/O2Bottle2.jpg
http://home.pcisys.net/~ronlee/RV6A/Oxygen/O2Bottle4.jpg
http://home.pcisys.net/~ronlee/RV6A/Oxygen/O2Bottle5.jpg
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | rv-8 switch locations |
I tried to organize mine so that pre-takeoff switches are on the console and
switches used in flight are on the lower left hand side of the panel. I
shouldn't have to switch anything with my right hand after the mag check
(except stick mounted switches) until I'm shutting down or something odd is
happening.........
-
Larry Bowen, RV-8 in progress
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Geoff Evans [mailto:hellothaimassage(at)yahoo.com]
> Sent: Friday, June 18, 2004 5:31 PM
> To: RV List
> Subject: RV-List: rv-8 switch locations
>
>
>
>
> >From what I can tell, there seems to be about an even split between
> >people
> who have put light switches on the right side console and
> people who have put them somewhere on the instrument panel.
>
> I'm looking for feedback from people with completed and
> flying RV-8/8As. Did you put switches on that right side
> console, or did you put them on the forward panel? Did you
> wish you had done it differently? What do you see as the good
> and bad points of your chosen mounting location?
>
> I'm trying to decide whether or not to use that right side
> switch console for switches, and I'm looking for some pros and cons.
>
> Thanks.
> -Geoff
> RV-8 QB
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Minimum Hours for Insurance |
Cut him some slack JT. I've spoken to you on the phone and you've dressed me down
for not speaking in the correct terms. We're all pilots and builders here,
not insurance agents. Try to think out of the box a little bit and listen to
what we're trying to say. We're not lawyers (well most of us aren't) so we
don't talk like lawyers.
That's really not a flame. I respect JT for REALLY devoting himself to his chosen
profession. I certainly can't fault his knowledge of the insurance industry.
John Helms wrote:
Wow. You use the wrong term, and I'm to blame. That's new.
Hope the list learned a lesson about dealing with you. I was right all along, and
you cannot admit it. At least I admitted that my mind wasn't open enough initially
to see that you were merely using the wrong term.
If you look back at my original posts, I asked that you verify it with your agent,
but you insisted you had and that you were correct (which you weren't by the
way.)
Perhaps you could have said, "Wow, you are right, I mispoke. There is medical pay
on my policy. I was talking about passenger liability."
How do you feel about your advice to other builders to call and get med pay removed
from their policy? I'm sure glad I was paying attention to the list today.
I hope I saved all my customers, my receptionist and myself 1000 phonecalls.
JT
----- Original Message -----
From: LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Minimum Hours for Insurance
In a message dated 06/18/2004 12:35:22 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
jhelms(at)i1.net writes:
Rob, you know what... thank you. You're correct.
I've been so defensive that my mind has not been clear to fully analyze what
Jim has been saying. When I read YOUR post, it hit me what Jim likely has
been talking about. While he hasn't been using the correct insurance term
Yes. How stupid of me to use the wrong insurance term.
This is exactly why I am NOT willing to share what I have learned about
performance improvement with the LIST.
There is ALWAYS someone VERY WILLING to CRITICIZE before they think.
Jim Ayers
Less Drag Products, Inc.
RV-3 N47RV 125 hp RV-3 N51RV 160 hp
You figure out how to make a 35 hp difference in performance. I'm not
talking!!!!!
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Minimum Hours for Insurance |
Hi All,
I received an answer directly from John Helms.
As an attempt to summary today's exchange:
In my original Email, my description of being "without medical coverage" was
totally unacceptable to Mr. Helms.
My description of the "medical coverage" was very poorly written.
As I understood from Mr. Helms comments; a single place aircraft (and
multi-place aircraft always flown without crew or passengers) can have an insurance
policy written with liability coverage, without hull coverage and WITHOUT
MEDICAL COVERAGE.
What John Helms had difficulty getting around to saying is that if passengers
or crew are carried on the aircraft, then the insurance company is required
to provide the medical coverage in the insurance contract.
What is the result of this discussion to me?
My RV-3 insurance is liability coverage only. (The $300. No medical coverage.
No one else flies it.)
My RV-6A insurance includes medical coverage to cover nonowner pilots and
passengers.
My HR2 insurance will include medical coverage. There will also be a supply
of sick sacks. More for the front seat than the passenger. :-)
"med pay" I love those buzz words. Reminds me of when I worked at a big
company.
"med pay" will not be part of any of these policies, unless it is truly free.
According to my policy; if someone is hurt other than the aircraft owner, it
covers the cost of the ambulance ride to the ER. If it is a short ride,
what's left goes towards ER costs only. The aircraft owner is not covered.
(Gee. I sure hope I'm clearer this time.)
As John Helms has already determined, my "little RV-3" and RV-6A are insured
through AIG. My agent is Trish at SkySmith Insurance Agency. (800) 743-1439
I apologize to the list for not saying enough about my insurance situation
for clarity.
And I apologize to the list for the previous exchanges of extreme bandwidth
taken today with no apparent clarification.
Jim Ayers
And I especially apologize to "the kid", Doug Preston, whoever you are. :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Rocky Mountain oil pressure sender |
I took off last week and I was showing 94 pounds of oil pressure. Typically
I run 73-74 pounds. Not knowing what was going on, I went back to the
airport and drove.
Last night I pulled the sender and hooked it up to an airline with 80 pounds
in it, the gauge read over 100 then I unhooked the air and realized it was
reading 18 pounds with no air pressure on it. I recalibrated the gauge at
zero and the calibration factor was -30 essentially the limit of the unit.
My question is, has anyone else had this problem, and I assume the sender is
failing, am I correct? Is this sender a Napa store part? a VDO 0-10 bar
sender.
Tailwinds
Doug Rozendaal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Trampas" <tstern(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Rocky Mountain oil pressure sender |
I was going to suggest getting a sender for a Mercedes or, other German car
that uses VDO sensors. However I think Mercedes are only 0-5 bar (0-74 psi).
You can get VDO sensors relatively cheap on line. Of course if Rocky
Mountain allows you to calibrate to any sensor you can just pick a sensor up
at Napa and use it.
Regards,
Trampas Stern
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doug Rozendaal
Subject: RV-List: Rocky Mountain oil pressure sender
I took off last week and I was showing 94 pounds of oil pressure. Typically
I run 73-74 pounds. Not knowing what was going on, I went back to the
airport and drove.
Last night I pulled the sender and hooked it up to an airline with 80 pounds
in it, the gauge read over 100 then I unhooked the air and realized it was
reading 18 pounds with no air pressure on it. I recalibrated the gauge at
zero and the calibration factor was -30 essentially the limit of the unit.
My question is, has anyone else had this problem, and I assume the sender is
failing, am I correct? Is this sender a Napa store part? a VDO 0-10 bar
sender.
Tailwinds
Doug Rozendaal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV8 switch locations |
Just a thought, I wouldn't put switches on the right hand side. I fly a '4
that was built by someone else. I have switches on the right side. I have
to remove my hand from the stick to turn on what I consider the basics:
boost pump, lights, etc.
While this isn't huge, if I were building, I would put all switches within
reach of my throttle hand.
Chuck Rowbotham, who is on this list, has a wonderfully ergonomic '8
cockpit, including many functions on an Infinity type stick.
Don
"All of us need to be reminded that the federal government did not create
the states; the states created the federal government!"---Ronald Reagan
Watch the online reality show Mixed Messages with a friend and enter to win
a trip to NY
http://www.msnmessenger-download.click-url.com/go/onm00200497ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Val INS422 vs Garmin 295 GPS |
Dan,
You're Garmin is probably set to show heading in true north, NOT magnetic.
While (I believe) VORs are magnetic.
I may have it wrong, but the key item is that they're probably not synched.
The garmin's ship by default to follow true.
Also your error of 17 deg sounds too close to what the magnetic correction
should be. (its 14 degrees in the northeast)
Don
"All of us need to be reminded that the federal government did not create
the states; the states created the federal government!"---Ronald Reagan
MSN Movies - Trailers, showtimes, DVD's, and the latest news from Hollywood!
http://movies.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200509ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Art Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Val INS422 vs Garmin 295 GPS |
Why not check it at a vor check point or compare it to a hand held or to
another aircraft?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bertrv6(at)highstream.net |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Tow Bar |
Quoting Philip Condon :
>
> We are using a elect powered tow bar on a RV and Bonanza
> that is fantastic. It uses a DeWalt elect drill as the power unit and can
> push the Bonanza around all day (about 3 to 4 months) between charges, Great
> quality unit.
>
> Philip: Sounds good, where did you buy it from? Thanks Bert
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "GMC" <gmcnutt(at)uniserve.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6/7 Oxygen Mounting Location |
For people using oxygen, where and how are you mounting it. I was hoping to
put it right behind the passenger seat between the seat belt tie downs, but
it is too big with the electric flaps. Just wondering what other ideas
others have had.
My 6A setup.
I mounted my O2 bottle vertically in the right forward corner of the baggage
compartment (behind pax seat) and similar to pictures in another post. Made
2 half moon shaped sheet metal brackets and riveted them onto sidewall.
Bottle is secured to brackets with large hose clamps.
Oxygen quick disconnect outlets are installed on 45 degree angled brackets
at front end of arm rests with vinyl low pressure lines running underneath
arm rests back to, and under, rear seat support to "T" fitting and then a
single line to quick disconnect at O2 bottle regulator.
The important thing to remember is that it is very difficult to don O2
equipment in the air, remove headset, hat, darn there goes the glasses -
oh -oh off heading, now how does that stupid cannula go on - dam altitude
oh-oh need another heading change for that next cu top etc, etc.
If planning a high altitude flight everything is set up before departure and
O2 turned on when required. However I find that about 50% of the time I find
myself in an un-planned situation where O2 is needed and I am also busy with
other flying duties such as ATC and dodging cu tops so the O2 setup and
donning must be as simple as possible.
With the bottle on right sidewall it is easy to turn on with right hand
while flying the aircraft. Cannula masks are stored in seat pocket on aft
side of passenger seat and can be easily reached in flight. With the outlets
at the forward end of each arm rest the plug-in process is simple.
George in Langley
6A - 280 hrs.
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rv-8 switch locations |
>
>From what I can tell, there seems to be about an even split between people
>who have put light switches on the right side console and people who have put
>them somewhere on the instrument panel.
>
>I'm looking for feedback from people with completed and flying RV-8/8As. Did
>you put switches on that right side console, or did you put them on the
>forward panel? Did you wish you had done it differently? What do you see as
>the good and bad points of your chosen mounting location?
>
>I'm trying to decide whether or not to use that right side switch console for
>switches, and I'm looking for some pros and cons.
>
>Thanks.
>-Geoff
>RV-8 QB
If the aircraft will never fly night IFR, you might be OK with light
switches on the right side console. But, if you fly IFR at night,
you will want to be able to quickly be able to switch the strobes OFF
(if you enter cloud and they bother you) and the landing lights ON
(after you break out of cloud on final approach).
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | rv-8 switch locations |
| From: | "Chiocchio, Stanley" <schiocchio(at)olhcc.edu> |
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CgkNCgkNCg0K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV8 switch locations |
Thanks for the kind words - Will be at
>From: "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: RV8 switch locations
>Date: Sat, 19 Jun 2004 12:06:47 +0000
>
>
>Just a thought, I wouldn't put switches on the right hand side. I fly a '4
>that was built by someone else. I have switches on the right side. I have
>to remove my hand from the stick to turn on what I consider the basics:
>boost pump, lights, etc.
>
>While this isn't huge, if I were building, I would put all switches within
>reach of my throttle hand.
>
>Chuck Rowbotham, who is on this list, has a wonderfully ergonomic '8
>cockpit, including many functions on an Infinity type stick.
>
>Don
>
>
>"All of us need to be reminded that the federal government did not create
>the states; the states created the federal government!"---Ronald Reagan
>
>Watch the online reality show Mixed Messages with a friend and enter to win
>a trip to NY
>http://www.msnmessenger-download.click-url.com/go/onm00200497ave/direct/01/
>
>
http://join.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200361ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | rv-8 switch locations |
Geoff,
The anwser to your question is based on which hand holds your stick: If you
hold the stick with your right - switches & throttle quad on your left. The
oppsite would be true if you fly your RV with your left hand on the stick -
The switches - throttle quad and radios on the Right.
Not only does this design allow you to keep your hand on your control stick
but also reduces the manipulation effort of switches, ect since your free
hand falls to the swicthes naturally.
This is just the first phase of an ergonomic cockpit design.
We posted some pictures on Oct 12, 2002 and I'll post a more current one
tonight (Shoudl be available in a couple of days.
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A (300+ hrs)
>From: Geoff Evans <hellothaimassage(at)yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: RV List
>Subject: RV-List: rv-8 switch locations
>Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2004 14:30:46 -0700 (PDT)
>
>
>From what I can tell, there seems to be about an even split between people
>who have put light switches on the right side console and people who have
>put
>them somewhere on the instrument panel.
>
>I'm looking for feedback from people with completed and flying RV-8/8As.
>Did
>you put switches on that right side console, or did you put them on the
>forward panel? Did you wish you had done it differently? What do you see as
>the good and bad points of your chosen mounting location?
>
>I'm trying to decide whether or not to use that right side switch console
>for
>switches, and I'm looking for some pros and cons.
>
>Thanks.
>-Geoff
>RV-8 QB
>
>
>__________________________________
>http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
All,
I am off to Alaska for the Elmendorf AFB airshow next weekend, I am flying
up on a crowd-killer (aka airliner) Monday, we will do a crew change at
Anchorage and I will be at Elmendorf next weekend with our B-25 "Miss
Mitchell" and then home across Canada early the Mon-Tues following. Any
Alaska RVers that are at the show please stop by the B-25, ask for me, and
say hello. I will give you the VIP tour. No extra charge for putting spit
on the inside of the windshield. As I said last year, everyone should take
a trip to Alaska in a little airplane, it is an easy trip and the most
beautiful flying you will ever do!!!
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Danielson" <Jdaniel343(at)bresnan.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Minimum Hours for Insurance |
My 2 cents worth.
When I finished my RV-6, Nation Air wanted me to get signed off by a CFI
with RV experience.
At the time I had 170 hrs. total time, 8 hrs in a Decathalon (which I got my
tailwheel endorcement in), 18 hours in a Hiperbipe, and 20 hours of RV-6A
time (all inclusive in the 170 hrs).
I contacted Tom Irlbeck in Sommerset, WI. He has a RV-8, is a CFI and was a
Top Gun instructor for the Navy.
I had him fly out to Casper, WY and we preceeded for the next 4 days to get
me checked out in my RV-6.
This was great training and I really appreciated Toms patience.
At the end of 16 hrs, Tom signed me off and I felt pretty comfortable behind
the stick when I did my first solo flight in the RV.
Tom signed my log book and thats all Nation Air required.
I had total insurance coverage for $65,000 and it only cost me $1700 for the
first year. The next year I had total time the added up to 330 hrs and my
coverage dropped to $1500. John told me that when I had total time of 500
hrs that insurance would probably be $1200.
I am sure that these figures probably have changed since I sold my RV last
January and didn't need to reapply.
John Danielson
Harmon Rocket next
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Birkelbach" <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator horn travel limit |
I was not talking about the flange of the HS I was talking about the flange
on the Horn. The HS spar flange won't help the original poster because his
problem is that the elevator horn is hitting the rear bulkhead before it
hits the elevator stop. I had the same issue but on my airplane it hit the
bulkhead at exactly the right elevator travel so I got lucky. Richard was
not so lucky and will have to trim the elevator horn to get the right
travel.
You will find as you progress through the process that the plans become less
and less useful. Van's did not anticipate every single little problem than
any builder is ever going to have. Sometimes you have to trust your own
judgement, or the judgement of others or simply call Van's.
Godspeed,
Phil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kathleen (rv7)" <Kathleen(at)rv7.us>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Elevator horn travel limit
>
> OK Phil, I must be confused about what you guys are discussing. According
> to the builders' manual, "It will probably be necessary to remove the
bottom
> flange of the HS-603PP to allow the elevator horns enough swing." On my
> DWG-3 (of the HS) it says, pointing to the lower flange, "Trim HS rear
spar
> to allow elevator horns to pivot forward and contact the elevator 'down'
> control stop."
>
> Nowhere does it say anything about trimming the horns. Are you talking
> about something else or making the case that the plans are wrong?
>
> Kathleen,
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phil Birkelbach
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Elevator horn travel limit
>
>
> My elevator horn hits the bulkhead right at the required up travel, so I
got
> lucky. I called Van's to make sure that it was okay that the horn hit the
> bulkhead before it hit the stop and they were not worried about it but
they
> did want to make sure that I had the required up travel.
>
> I suspect that you could trim a little on the horns, just make sure that
you
> don't cut into the 'flanges' and be sure that the edge distances are
okay.
> I would also call Van's and double check.
>
> Godspeed,
>
> Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
> RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Panel
> http://www.myrv7.com
>
>
> Richard Suffoletto wrote:
>
> >-->
> >
> >
> >I am not able to get the necessary up travel on the elevators because the
> most rear horn hits the rear bulk head just as it reaches the stop. ( 4
> degrees short) Consequently taking anymore off the stop is not going to
> help. Is it OK to trim away some of the lower horn to get a few more
degrees
> of travel? Anybody else run into this?
> >
> >
> >Richard
> >
> >
> >RV-7A QB
> >
> >
> > Getting married? Find great tips, tools and the latest trends at MSN
Life
> Events.
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> advertising on the Matronics Forums.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal / Carol Kempthorne <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: North to Alaska |
At 07:47 PM 6/19/2004, you wrote:
>
>All,
>
>I am off to Alaska for the Elmendorf AFB airshow next weekend
Hi Doug, Are you sure you are not having too much fun for an Iowan?
I have heard of flying the trench but I can't figure out from the charts
where that is. Have you heard of it?
How will the B25 get there?
hal
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "davercook" <davercook(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Slider Canopy Help |
Hi all
Canopy frustration time. Question, after drilling canopy to frame, it causes the
frame to exert pressure on the tracks so that the canopy nolonger rolls , but
scrapes the track and digs into the aluminum. I widened the tracks about 1/8"
on both sides but no joy.I trimmed the rollers , no joy.I bent the bracket holding
the roller, no joy. What's a body to do,start over? I tried bending the
front bow for conformity to the roll bar and broke it and had to have it welded
so I know I don't want to go that route again. Sometimes the head of the screw
digs in, and sometime the shoulder of the bracket digs in.
I should have built the tip-up!
Dave Cook Finish Kit/Canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Walker" <ron(at)walker.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Slider Canopy Help |
While I don't have any *direct* experience, I do understand your
frustrations ... there were a few times in my tip-up construction that I was
saying "Wish I built the slider!" ... Take a deep breath .. maybe move on to
something else for a couple days ... you'll find your answer ;o)
Good Luck and keep steady!
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: "davercook" <davercook(at)prodigy.net>
Subject: RV-List: Slider Canopy Help
>
> Hi all
>
> Canopy frustration time. Question, after drilling canopy to frame, it
causes the frame to exert pressure on the tracks so that the canopy nolonger
rolls , but scrapes the track and digs into the aluminum. I widened the
tracks about 1/8" on both sides but no joy.I trimmed the rollers , no joy.I
bent the bracket holding the roller, no joy. What's a body to do,start over?
I tried bending the front bow for conformity to the roll bar and broke it
and had to have it welded so I know I don't want to go that route again.
Sometimes the head of the screw digs in, and sometime the shoulder of the
bracket digs in.
>
> I should have built the tip-up!
>
> Dave Cook Finish Kit/Canopy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Slider Canopy Help |
Hi Dave,
Yes, start over! You need to take it apart and bend the frame narrower until
it springs to the right width. Leave the tracks alone once you have them
parallel, and adjust on the frame. Some builders cut the frame and cut or bend
the pieces individually, then weld it back together. I didn't have to do that,
but I may have gotten a better fit if I had. There is an issue of the RVator
about a year ago which was devoted to the slider. Someone else may remember
exactly which one it was. It would probably help you to review it.
Hang in there. It took me maybe two weeks just to get the frame and canopy
fit. The better job you do here, the better and easier it is to get the skirts
to fit and look good.
Regards,
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (Taxiing and waiting for FAA paperwork.)
In a message dated 6/20/04 3:55:46 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
davercook(at)prodigy.net writes:
>
>
> Hi all
>
> Canopy frustration time. Question, after drilling canopy to frame, it causes
> the frame to exert pressure on the tracks so that the canopy nolonger rolls
> , but scrapes the track and digs into the aluminum. I widened the tracks
> about 1/8" on both sides but no joy.I trimmed the rollers , no joy.I bent the
> bracket holding the roller, no joy. What's a body to do,start over? I tried
> bending the front bow for conformity to the roll bar and broke it and had to
have
> it welded so I know I don't want to go that route again. Sometimes the head
> of the screw digs in, and sometime the shoulder of the bracket digs in.
>
> I should have built the tip-up!
>
> Dave Cook Finish Kit/Canopy
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Slider Canopy Help |
Hi Dave,
Your problem is not uncommon to us slider types. I now have 2 flying slider
RV6's, and after much cussing, et.al, I now have two canopies that slide
themselves open past the first 8 inches.
The 1st thing is to absolutely get the front bow to shape. That may mean
some bending, maybe the use of a torch or something. I just put one of
those ratcheting straps across the bottom of the bow and cranked until it
was right. Next, make sure the rails are at the appropriate spot outboard.
Moving them too far outboard will cause problems with the side skirts later,
so be careful about moving them too far outboard. Make sure the canopy
frame slides nicely before you put the plexi on, if it doesn't, it only gets
worse when you put the plexi on. In fact, I would try to bend the frame
slightly inboard a bit too much, as the weight of the plexi and it's effort
try to push the frame open somewhat, exaserbating any rubbing tendencies you
may have had before installing the plexi.
Also, gently chamfer the outboard side of the plastic rollers to the shape
of the rail and make sure you have the right amount of spacers between the
mouting ear and the roller, that will keep the screw head from rubbing the
rail. You may have to fiddle with that as well.
Last but not least, to make for a really nice, smooth opening, I have put a
strip of teflon tape in the inside of the rail. That way if the roller
rubs, it still slides nicely. Both mine were extreme pains in the rear, but
with some time they now work great. Both of my canopies slide by themselves
and the skirts fit like gloves!
Hope this helps,
Stein.
RV6's, Minneapolis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of davercook
Subject: RV-List: Slider Canopy Help
Hi all
Canopy frustration time. Question, after drilling canopy to frame, it causes
the frame to exert pressure on the tracks so that the canopy nolonger rolls
about 1/8" on both sides but no joy.I trimmed the rollers , no joy.I bent
the bracket holding the roller, no joy. What's a body to do,start over? I
tried bending the front bow for conformity to the roll bar and broke it and
had to have it welded so I know I don't want to go that route again.
Sometimes the head of the screw digs in, and sometime the shoulder of the
bracket digs in.
I should have built the tip-up!
Dave Cook Finish Kit/Canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Traveling Tool Kit |
Or, could it be people are not using the right fluid? I don't really want to
start anything here, but I know from just my limited exposure at the local
airport of 3 different "best" brake fluids.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (Waiting for FAA registration. Register your plane now. Don't wait
'till its done!)
In a message dated 6/16/04 11:21:18 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
Bluecavu(at)aol.com writes:
>
> Frankly I'm amazed at this... after decades now of fooling around with
> little
> airplanes -both as a full-time GA A&P for many years, and as a
> homebuilder/restorer. I've never heard of a brake O-ring failure at the
> caliper (other than
> a little sticky ooze of a leak) -EXCEPT where the poor souls have had the
> pistons installed backwards... -and as the pads wore, the (wrong) end of the
> piston w/ the O-rings moved out of the bore. Must be some really poor
> O-rings out
> there these days... or else you guys are puttin the pistons in wrong (the
> end
> w/ the O-ring goes in the hole first!)
>
> Scott
> N4ZW (and NC76740/N2597V)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Traveling Tool Kit |
Cleveland had a manufacturing problem where the pistons were installed
backwards AT the FACTORY.
I spent a lot of time with them developing a way to check without
disassembly. The article is in one of the past Experimenters in my safety
column. Basically, it involves loosening the bolts holding out pad so one
can pump the piston out. If you see the o-ring within about a 1/10 of an
inch, it is in back wards. No fluid is lost, and no disassembly is
necessary unless you find that the piston has been installed incorrectly.
There have been several reports of the backward piston coming out far enough
to leak all the brake fluid. This happens when the pads wear enough in about
300 hours and it dumps the brake fluid. O-rings can't do the job when one
assumes that the factory installed the piston correctly.
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: <Hopperdhh(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Traveling Tool Kit
>
>
> Or, could it be people are not using the right fluid? I don't really want
to
> start anything here, but I know from just my limited exposure at the local
> airport of 3 different "best" brake fluids.
>
> Dan Hopper
> RV-7A (Waiting for FAA registration. Register your plane now. Don't wait
> 'till its done!)
>
> In a message dated 6/16/04 11:21:18 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
> Bluecavu(at)aol.com writes:
>
> >
> > Frankly I'm amazed at this... after decades now of fooling around with
> > little
> > airplanes -both as a full-time GA A&P for many years, and as a
> > homebuilder/restorer. I've never heard of a brake O-ring failure at the
> > caliper (other than
> > a little sticky ooze of a leak) -EXCEPT where the poor souls have had
the
> > pistons installed backwards... -and as the pads wore, the (wrong) end of
the
> > piston w/ the O-rings moved out of the bore. Must be some really poor
> > O-rings out
> > there these days... or else you guys are puttin the pistons in wrong
(the
> > end
> > w/ the O-ring goes in the hole first!)
> >
> > Scott
> > N4ZW (and NC76740/N2597V)
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted" <ted_french(at)telus.net> |
"Flying the trench" is the north end of the trip in a direct route from
Prince george BC to Watson Lake. It starts roughly at Williston lake and
runs for about 250 miles north. The lake is also part of it. In my RV-6A I
did the PG to Watson Lake trip in 3 hours even. From PG to Fort Ware which
is 50 miles north of the north end of Williston lake there are emergency
landing strips. From Ft Ware to Watson Lake is 1.5 hrs of trees.
Ted French
RV-6A C-FXCS 180 hours
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Hal / Carol
Kempthorne
Subject: Re: RV-List: North to Alaska
At 07:47 PM 6/19/2004, you wrote:
>
>All,
>
>I am off to Alaska for the Elmendorf AFB airshow next weekend
Hi Doug, Are you sure you are not having too much fun for an Iowan?
I have heard of flying the trench but I can't figure out from the charts
where that is. Have you heard of it?
How will the B25 get there?
hal
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Traveling Tool Kit |
In a message dated 6/20/2004 3:36:02 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
Hopperdhh(at)aol.com writes:
Or, could it be people are not using the right fluid? I don't really want
to
start anything here, but I know from just my limited exposure at the local
airport of 3 different "best" brake fluids.
==================================
MIL-H-5606 (petroleum, flash point ~104 deg C) with nitrile seals (~135 deg
C rated) is what is recommended.
DOT 5 (silicone, high flash point) with Viton seals (~232 deg C rated) is
what some local Long-EZ drivers swear by because they land fast, with a long
roll out and are heavy on the brakes.
MIL-H-83282 (synthetic, flash point ~240 deg C) replaced MIL-H-5606 for all
but civilian aircraft use in the '50s after they got fed up having too many
military aircraft brake fires. It is usable with Viton seals.
You all are grownups and can decide for yourselves whether the first case is
the preferred situation.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 701 hrs; last trip, Sedona)
If you do what you've always done, you will get what you've always gotten.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "GMC" <gmcnutt(at)uniserve.com> |
I have heard of flying the trench but I can't figure out from the charts
where that is. Have you heard of it?
hal
-----------------------------------------
Hi Hal
I have never flown the trench, just looked down from the flight levels.
The Trench is a fairly straight valley running from Mackenzie (near 55N
123W) to Watson Lake on the Alaska Highway, approximately 360 N.M. The floor
of the trench is 2-3000' msl with 7-8000' mountains along each side.
It is a frequently used flight way but with very limited facilities and
emergency strips.
George in Langley
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Elevator horn travel limit |
Is the elevator attached to the back side of the rear mount or the forward
side?
>
>
> >
> > I am not able to get the necessary up travel on the elevators
> > because the
> > most rear horn hits the rear bulk head just as it reaches the
> > stop. ( 4
> > degrees short) Consequently taking anymore off the stop is
> > not going to
> > help. Is it OK to trim away some of the lower horn to get a
> > few more degrees
> > of travel? Anybody else run into this?
> >
> >
> > Richard
>
>Richard,
>
>I seem to recall that the aft end of one of the elevator horns on my
>plane needed to be trimmed for the exact issue you have. The left and
>right horns are typically not aligned well with one another, so IIRC
>only one needed to be trimmed. In my case, this was not builder
>adjustable - the weldments simply were off.
>
>Alex Peterson
>Maple Grove, MN
>RV6-A N66AP 482 hours
>http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Minimum Hours for Insurance |
I was not trying to flame anyone or 'dress anyone down'. I do want you all to
understand what was being said, and it was very obvious that Jim was confused.
I didn't want 1000 of you all to call me asking to remove the medical payments
from your policy.
That simply can't be done, nor would you want to. Medical Payments are included
automatically. What Jim apparently removed from his policy (and what his agent
should have done automatically for him) was passenger liability. If Jim is
the only pilot on his RV-3 and there aren't any non-owner pilots named on the
policy, then there is no passenger exposure.
I haven't even finished reading all the posts about this but from Jim's post I'm
reading now, it's apparent that he still doesn't quite understand what it is
he's removed from the policy gaining him the $300.
Medical payments are included at some limit (with AIG it's $1000 per person) for
free. Increasing it to $3000 or some other limit will normally cost, but you
can't eliminate it altogether from the policy.
Medical payments are designed to be easier to get for minor medical claims. The
insurance company includes it for free along with liability so that someone
(perhaps a family member?) wouldn't have to go to the trouble of suing you because
they twist and break their ankle getting off your plane.
I insure so many RVs that someone posting something like that on a list like this
will surely shut me down temporarily. We just can't handle that many service
calls on top of our normal traffic for something that can't even be done.
I wanted to make sure that everyone (at a minimum those whom I insure) understood
that what he was suggesting wasn't possible. And it certainly wouldn't save
anyone $300.
Jim's is an extremely unique position in that he owns a one seat plane with one
pilot owner listed as a pilot. That's the only reason that he's able to remove
the passenger liability. The companies won't do that for a flying 2 + seat
plane.
JT
----- Original Message -----
From: Scott Vanartsdalen
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, June 18, 2004 10:25 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Minimum Hours for Insurance
Cut him some slack JT. I've spoken to you on the phone and you've dressed me
down for not speaking in the correct terms. We're all pilots and builders here,
not insurance agents. Try to think out of the box a little bit and listen
to what we're trying to say. We're not lawyers (well most of us aren't) so we
don't talk like lawyers.
That's really not a flame. I respect JT for REALLY devoting himself to his chosen
profession. I certainly can't fault his knowledge of the insurance industry.
John Helms wrote:
Wow. You use the wrong term, and I'm to blame. That's new.
Hope the list learned a lesson about dealing with you. I was right all along,
and you cannot admit it. At least I admitted that my mind wasn't open enough
initially to see that you were merely using the wrong term.
If you look back at my original posts, I asked that you verify it with your agent,
but you insisted you had and that you were correct (which you weren't by
the way.)
Perhaps you could have said, "Wow, you are right, I mispoke. There is medical
pay on my policy. I was talking about passenger liability."
How do you feel about your advice to other builders to call and get med pay removed
from their policy? I'm sure glad I was paying attention to the list today.
I hope I saved all my customers, my receptionist and myself 1000 phonecalls.
JT
----- Original Message -----
From: LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Minimum Hours for Insurance
In a message dated 06/18/2004 12:35:22 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
jhelms(at)i1.net writes:
Rob, you know what... thank you. You're correct.
I've been so defensive that my mind has not been clear to fully analyze what
Jim has been saying. When I read YOUR post, it hit me what Jim likely has
been talking about. While he hasn't been using the correct insurance term
Yes. How stupid of me to use the wrong insurance term.
This is exactly why I am NOT willing to share what I have learned about
performance improvement with the LIST.
There is ALWAYS someone VERY WILLING to CRITICIZE before they think.
Jim Ayers
Less Drag Products, Inc.
RV-3 N47RV 125 hp RV-3 N51RV 160 hp
You figure out how to make a 35 hp difference in performance. I'm not
talking!!!!!
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Minimum Hours for Insurance |
Actually it does have medical coverage on it. What it doesn't have is passenger
liability coverage. If you added a pilot friend of yours as a named pilot on
the policy, you'd actually have to add the passenger liability back on.
Medical payments or med pay is included on all policies of this type. You apparently
still don't quite get it. You are confusing med pay with passenger liability.
And I think you'll be shocked to find out that none of the insurance
companies will remove the passenger liability on a flying RV or any type of plane
when it has more than one seat.
Your unique position on the RV-3 is what set up this whole situation. That, coupled
with the fact that you're the only pilot, allowed your agent which you're
so high on to make a mistake (trying to include passenger liability when it
wasn't needed). She apparently then noticed (or you did) and the passenger liability
was removed, in effect saving you $300. (the med pay is still on there.)
I hope I'm clearer this time too.
JT
----- Original Message -----
From: LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, June 18, 2004 10:54 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Minimum Hours for Insurance
Hi All,
I received an answer directly from John Helms.
As an attempt to summary today's exchange:
In my original Email, my description of being "without medical coverage" was
totally unacceptable to Mr. Helms.
My description of the "medical coverage" was very poorly written.
As I understood from Mr. Helms comments; a single place aircraft (and
multi-place aircraft always flown without crew or passengers) can have an insurance
policy written with liability coverage, without hull coverage and WITHOUT
MEDICAL COVERAGE.
What John Helms had difficulty getting around to saying is that if passengers
or crew are carried on the aircraft, then the insurance company is required
to provide the medical coverage in the insurance contract.
What is the result of this discussion to me?
My RV-3 insurance is liability coverage only. (The $300. No medical coverage.
No one else flies it.)
My RV-6A insurance includes medical coverage to cover nonowner pilots and
passengers.
My HR2 insurance will include medical coverage. There will also be a supply
of sick sacks. More for the front seat than the passenger. :-)
"med pay" I love those buzz words. Reminds me of when I worked at a big
company.
"med pay" will not be part of any of these policies, unless it is truly free.
According to my policy; if someone is hurt other than the aircraft owner, it
covers the cost of the ambulance ride to the ER. If it is a short ride,
what's left goes towards ER costs only. The aircraft owner is not covered.
(Gee. I sure hope I'm clearer this time.)
As John Helms has already determined, my "little RV-3" and RV-6A are insured
through AIG. My agent is Trish at SkySmith Insurance Agency. (800) 743-1439
I apologize to the list for not saying enough about my insurance situation
for clarity.
And I apologize to the list for the previous exchanges of extreme bandwidth
taken today with no apparent clarification.
Jim Ayers
And I especially apologize to "the kid", Doug Preston, whoever you are. :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jamie Painter" <jdpainter(at)jpainter.org> |
A while back a fellow and his father made the trip from NY state to Alaska
and back and documented the entire trip. Here are some nice pictures of
what I believe to be 'The Trench'.
http://www.geocities.com/jruhjr/10.htm
--
Jamie D. Painter
RV-7A wings N622JP (reserved)
http://rv.jpainter.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Val INS422 vs Garmin 295 GPS |
Be careful to compare apples to apples. Certain functions of the gps a
designed to maintain the radial to the target regardless of the actual bearing.
That is what makes the Hsi function work. Check them against each other by
centering the bar and reusing the direct to key. They should be the same until
you begin to loose course.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bluecavu(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | navaid ap rv-list |
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin/Navaid interface
Hi Jim,
See the page 7 in your Navaid manual for Fig. 3.=A0 In my manual there are 2
page 7's and 2 Fig. 3's!=A0 You want the one titled "WIRING DIAGRAM FOR
HAND-HELD
GPS AND AP-1 WITH GPS COUPLER."=A0 It shows the Data Out pin of the GPS going
to
pin 8 of the Autopilot.=A0 Ground of the GPS also needs to go to ground of the
Autopilot (pin 1).=A0 You also need to connect 2 jumpers: one from pin 11 to
pin
3, and one from pin 12 to pin 6.=A0 The pins on the GPS you can find in your
GPS manual or on the internet by searching for "Garmin connector."=A0 I used a
twisted pair of wires to make the connection.
A Garmin connector is avaliable at pfranc.com that is only $5 if your GNC
300XL has the same connector as the Garmin 295.
You will need to go to the interface screen on the GPS and enable the NMEA
output.=A0 This causes the GPS to send serial (ASCII) data which the Smart
Coupler
receives and converts to an analog voltage which comes out pins 11 and 12,
and goes back into pins 3 and 6.
Hope this helps,
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (Taxi testing & waiting for inspection)
In a message dated 6/17/04 11:49:51 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
jlanglin44(at)earthlink.net writes:
>
>
> I am having trouble figuring out which pin goes to which pin to navigate
> with input from my Garmin GNC 300XL to my Navaid autopilot.=A0 If anyone out
> there has some positive input I will listen.=A0 I have the Smart Coupler in
my
> autopilot if that helps.
>
> Jim Anglin
> HR II
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel lube source... |
They don't carry it any longer.
KB
Tommy Walker wrote:
>
>Got mine from Aircraft Spruce.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ken Balch
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Friday, June 18, 2004 3:49 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Fuel lube source...
>
>
> Can anyone point me to a current source of Fuel Lube? The real stuff,
> not the 'EZ Turn' product that seems to have taken its place everywhere.
>
> Love that peanut butter... :-)
>
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> RV-8 N118KB
> M-12 N612KB (finishing lower left wing)
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lwfeatherston(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Cool Collar oil filter cooler. |
Does anyone have any experience with the "Cool Collar" oil filter cooler?
It is an aluminum part which looks like a corrugated cardboard which wraps
around the oil filter, and is held on with a hose clamp. The Porsche owners and
Muscle Car guys swear by them. Claims are about 10% reduction in temp both
on the bench and on the road. One was a Corvette with a digital oil temp,
and driven on an 85F day the claim was 221F reduced to 201 on the same 35 mile
course with no change except the "Cool Collar." Best price seems to be from
J.C. Whitney (aircraft parts department, just kidding) at $25.99 plus $6
shipping. A friend of mine says his Harmon Rocket II is at least 10F cooler,
but
he has a SCAT tube blowing air on his filter. The d#%m thing looks too
simple to work, but sometimes simplicity is genius. What do you guys think?
See
jcwhitney.com, and type in "Cool Collar" in the parts selection window.
Thanks, Les Featherston HRII "N206KT" get it-get it? 75% power too.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | SD-20 Alternator installation question |
Fellow listers,
Have any of you successfully used either the Aircraft Spruce or Cleaveland vacuum
pump installation tool (wrench) on a B&C SD-20 alternator?
There is one bolt at 7 o'clock that can't be gotten to 'normally'. One lister
made a tool with a 1/4" drive socket and some 1/4" square stock bent to fit so
I know it can be done.....
I've sent mail to both Spruce and Cleaveland without any answers - so far....
Thanks,
Ralph Capen
RV6A N822AR - finally registered!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cool Collar oil filter cooler. |
Yes, the "Cool Collar" does work. I was fighting higher oil temperatures
than I wanted and put one one. It reduced my oil temp about 10-degrees F.
The real problem was elsewhere but I kept the collar because it does offer a
lot more surface area for the radiation of heat...certainly couldn't hurt
anything.
John at Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cool Collar oil filter cooler. |
8 degrees cooler for me. Internal air flow in the cowl can make a BIG
difference in the temp reduction. I imagine air flowing over the Cool
Collar you might be able to get 15 degrees max.
>
>Does anyone have any experience with the "Cool Collar" oil filter cooler?
>It is an aluminum part which looks like a corrugated cardboard which wraps
>around the oil filter, and is held on with a hose clamp. The Porsche
>owners and
>Muscle Car guys swear by them. Claims are about 10% reduction in temp both
>on the bench and on the road. One was a Corvette with a digital oil temp,
>and driven on an 85F day the claim was 221F reduced to 201 on the same 35
>mile
>course with no change except the "Cool Collar." Best price seems to be from
>J.C. Whitney (aircraft parts department, just kidding) at $25.99 plus $6
>shipping. A friend of mine says his Harmon Rocket II is at least 10F
>cooler, but
>he has a SCAT tube blowing air on his filter. The d#%m thing looks too
>simple to work, but sometimes simplicity is genius. What do you guys
>think? See
>jcwhitney.com, and type in "Cool Collar" in the parts selection window.
>Thanks, Les Featherston HRII "N206KT" get it-get it? 75% power too.
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: SD-20 Alternator installation question |
Ralph,
I have the SD-20 on the RV-7 and used the Cleaveland vacuum pump tool.
Worked very well. However, I think it is much easier to mount the SD-20
when the engine is off the mount. Not sure how much access their is for the
wrench with the engine on the aircraft/mount. I'll check it out and let you
know.
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 All Flying
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: SD-20 Alternator installation question
>
> Fellow listers,
>
> Have any of you successfully used either the Aircraft Spruce or Cleaveland
vacuum pump installation tool (wrench) on a B&C SD-20 alternator?
>
> There is one bolt at 7 o'clock that can't be gotten to 'normally'. One
lister made a tool with a 1/4" drive socket and some 1/4" square stock bent
to fit so I know it can be done.....
>
> I've sent mail to both Spruce and Cleaveland without any answers - so
far....
>
> Thanks,
> Ralph Capen
> RV6A N822AR - finally registered!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cool Collar oil filter cooler. |
>
>Yes, the "Cool Collar" does work. I was fighting higher oil temperatures
>than I wanted and put one one. It reduced my oil temp about 10-degrees F.
>The real problem was elsewhere but I kept the collar because it does offer
>a
>lot more surface area for the radiation of heat...certainly couldn't hurt
>anything.
>
>John at Salida, CO
I use one as well. It does help! I took off from Las Vegas a couple days
ago in 96 degree heat, full fuel, two aboard plus bags. Climbed at 120mph
and oil got up to 200 deg. F. It used to go 210-220. Other particulars:
seven row Niagara oil cooler on baffle behind cyl 4, Aeroshell W100,
O-360/Lightspeed/Sensenich metal prop.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: SD-20 Alternator installation question |
Thanks Pat! - mine is currently off the mount as you have described - I just
wanted to know if the tool would fit before I bought it.
How did you measure the torque?...or did you just muscle it, paint a dot on
it, and check it regularly?
Looking forward to hearing about that after-mounting access...!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: SD-20 Alternator installation question
>
> Ralph,
>
> I have the SD-20 on the RV-7 and used the Cleaveland vacuum pump tool.
> Worked very well. However, I think it is much easier to mount the SD-20
> when the engine is off the mount. Not sure how much access their is for
the
> wrench with the engine on the aircraft/mount. I'll check it out and let
you
> know.
>
> Pat Hatch
> RV-4
> RV-6
> RV-7 All Flying
> Vero Beach, FL
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: SD-20 Alternator installation question
>
>
> >
> > Fellow listers,
> >
> > Have any of you successfully used either the Aircraft Spruce or
Cleaveland
> vacuum pump installation tool (wrench) on a B&C SD-20 alternator?
> >
> > There is one bolt at 7 o'clock that can't be gotten to 'normally'. One
> lister made a tool with a 1/4" drive socket and some 1/4" square stock
bent
> to fit so I know it can be done.....
> >
> > I've sent mail to both Spruce and Cleaveland without any answers - so
> far....
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Ralph Capen
> > RV6A N822AR - finally registered!
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Ford" <dford(at)michweb.net> |
Just wondering about egt's and what is considered a normal range during takeoff--I
am showing in the yellow at about 1450 to 1500 F. I know it is relative to
where the probes are on the exhaust but is the range of temp really a cause
for concern or is it more to look at a departing individual egt from the group?
Dave Ford
RV6 85 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
>
>
> Just wondering about egt's and what is considered a normal
> range during takeoff--I am showing in the yellow at about
> 1450 to 1500 F. I know it is relative to where the probes
> are on the exhaust but is the range of temp really a cause
> for concern or is it more to look at a departing individual
> egt from the group?
>
> Dave Ford
> RV6 85 hours
Do you have a fuel flow measurement system? At full power (full rich),
near sea level, you should have around 16 gph for a 180 horse, around
14+ for a 160 horse. In other words, VERY rich of peak EGT. I'll look
tomorrow night at the egt's during climbout.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 487 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com> |
1450 to 1500 might be a bit high, but what's really
more important is your CHT's. If your CHT's run below
380 at full power/climb power, then you're fine. If
you're CHT's are warmer, you need to have your full
power mixture richened. Once you've established good
takeoff/climb CHT's, then you can note your EGT's and
use those as future reference for ideal takeoff
mixture, & those EGT's will be good target values for
high altitude takeoff leaning.
--- Dave Ford wrote:
>
>
> Just wondering about egt's and what is considered a
> normal range during takeoff--I am showing in the
> yellow at about 1450 to 1500 F. I know it is
> relative to where the probes are on the exhaust but
> is the range of temp really a cause for concern or
> is it more to look at a departing individual egt
> from the group?
>
> Dave Ford
> RV6 85 hours
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com> |
, ,
"vansairforce"
| Subject: | New MicroFilter Oil Filter... |
Ok... Well I wasn't going to post anything about this yet, but with all the
talk about the cool collar oil filter thingy I thought I would go ahead...
I have been working with a friend of mine to develop a new oil filter for
the experimental market... I have a page on my site with some photos and
info, but am not ready to market and sell yet... Soon I hope though!
We have two flying here on my field, one on the new engine in my -8A and one
on a new ECI engine in an RV-4... So far they are fantastic!
Here you go:
http://www.creativair.com/_new/microfilter/index.htm
-Bill VonDane
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New MicroFilter Oil Filter... |
Hey, Bill. The "enlarged" pictures on your web site are the same size
as the un-enlarged pictures (at least on my computer) - both small.
Dick Tasker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
EGT readings are relative and always go down as your plane goes up. Why?
because EGT is a measure of the heat or power that the engine is producing.
Unless your engine is turboed, more altitude always means less air. Less
air, less power, less heat! So your take-off temps should be higher than the
max possible high altitude EGT readings.
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Skylor Piper" <skylor4(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: high egt's
>
> 1450 to 1500 might be a bit high, but what's really
> more important is your CHT's. If your CHT's run below
> 380 at full power/climb power, then you're fine. If
> you're CHT's are warmer, you need to have your full
> power mixture richened. Once you've established good
> takeoff/climb CHT's, then you can note your EGT's and
> use those as future reference for ideal takeoff
> mixture, & those EGT's will be good target values for
> high altitude takeoff leaning.
>
> --- Dave Ford wrote:
> >
> >
> > Just wondering about egt's and what is considered a
> > normal range during takeoff--I am showing in the
> > yellow at about 1450 to 1500 F. I know it is
> > relative to where the probes are on the exhaust but
> > is the range of temp really a cause for concern or
> > is it more to look at a departing individual egt
> > from the group?
> >
> > Dave Ford
> > RV6 85 hours
> >
> >
> >
> > Contributions
> > any other
> > Forums.
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/chat
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> __________________________________
> http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cool Collar oil filter cooler. |
LarryRobertHelming wrote:
>((((((((())))))))))))
>Interesting. What is the formula so anyone could determine the boil temp
>for other altitudes, like say 12,000 or 8,000 feet. I don't plan to take my
>7 up to 82,500 for a while anyway. ;-)
>
PV=nRT
>While you are doing that, I assume that the freezing temp for water changes
>also at altitude. How about that formula too if you don't mind.
>
Water freezes at 32 deg F or 0 deg C. No change at altitude.
Linn
>
>Thanks, Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: SD-20 Alternator installation question |
Ralph,
I was able to torque three of the nuts with the torque wrench, then I
guessed at the one with the Cleaveland wrench based on the other three. I
did use torque seal on the nut to mark it. I have the -7 uncowled today so
I will check the clearance and get back to you.
Pat
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: SD-20 Alternator installation question
>
> Thanks Pat! - mine is currently off the mount as you have described - I
just
> wanted to know if the tool would fit before I bought it.
>
> How did you measure the torque?...or did you just muscle it, paint a dot
on
> it, and check it regularly?
>
> Looking forward to hearing about that after-mounting access...!
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: SD-20 Alternator installation question
>
>
> >
> > Ralph,
> >
> > I have the SD-20 on the RV-7 and used the Cleaveland vacuum pump tool.
> > Worked very well. However, I think it is much easier to mount the SD-20
> > when the engine is off the mount. Not sure how much access their is for
> the
> > wrench with the engine on the aircraft/mount. I'll check it out and let
> you
> > know.
> >
> > Pat Hatch
> > RV-4
> > RV-6
> > RV-7 All Flying
> > Vero Beach, FL
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
> > To:
> > Subject: RV-List: SD-20 Alternator installation question
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Fellow listers,
> > >
> > > Have any of you successfully used either the Aircraft Spruce or
> Cleaveland
> > vacuum pump installation tool (wrench) on a B&C SD-20 alternator?
> > >
> > > There is one bolt at 7 o'clock that can't be gotten to 'normally'.
One
> > lister made a tool with a 1/4" drive socket and some 1/4" square stock
> bent
> > to fit so I know it can be done.....
> > >
> > > I've sent mail to both Spruce and Cleaveland without any answers - so
> > far....
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Ralph Capen
> > > RV6A N822AR - finally registered!
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
With my set up the highest I see is just over 1400. On a normal day with a
full rich climb out I will see about 1250. I have the VM1000.
>
>Just wondering about egt's and what is considered a normal range during
>takeoff--I am showing in the yellow at about 1450 to 1500 F. I know it is
>relative to where the probes are on the exhaust but is the range of temp
>really a cause for concern or is it more to look at a departing individual
>egt from the group?
>
>Dave Ford
>RV6 85 hours
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Cool Collar installation |
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
Cool Collar installation
Squirt some silicone heat sink compound on it before installation so
you'll get good heat transfer. You can get the silicone stuff at any
electronics store.
Vince
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New MicroFilter Oil Filter... |
rv-8(at)yahoogroups.com, RV10(at)yahoogroups.com
Larry...
The filters have a cleanable and reusable filter element, so you don't have
to replace it... The filters are designed to last a lifetime, and will
easily last the life of your 2000 hour engine! The quad-ring gasket and the
spirol lock are also designed to last for the life of your engine, but if
you should damage them in any way, replacements will be available for just a
few bucks each...
Pricing is yet to be determined, but consider this; on a 2000 hour engine,
and changing the oil and filter every 50 hours, and Champion oil filters at
$17 a pop, you talking $680 in filters over the life of your engine... Even
if you go 100 hours on the filter you're talking $340!
That said... I am hoping to keep the cost to about $150... I will let you
all know when I have all the details worked out...
-Bill VonDane
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: New MicroFilter Oil Filter...
The picture enlarging works on my computer. I just wonder how much the
filter housing and replaceable filters will cost. Have you set prices yet?
Do you need more testers?
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Canopy Frame Tweak |
| From: | <EricHe(at)FlexSolPackaging.com> |
Guys (and all) all canopys are a royal pain in the A$$. I bent my frame for 2 long
days before I cut it apart and peged it and had it welded. Now that you have
drilled the glass on you have a serious delima that you need to be aware of.
This is a closed loop. The stress that you put on the canopy on the front bow
will manifest itself in the rear bow if you are not extremely carefull to isolate
what you do. DO NOT bend the bow on your knee after you have it drilled.
I helped a rocket builder one day. His started out just like you describe. The
glass put an outward bias on the rollers. So he grabbed his frame and just bent
it in. We bent that frame for 8 hours chasing out the new stresses. Don't
do this. Make a wood form out of ply wood that will isolate what you need to do.
Make sure the form holds the frame secure and bends only what you intend. What
you need is an inward bias and you can simply put spacers between the glass
and the bars if you need to maintain the shape you currently have, after you
do the bending.
Also keep in mind, it will loosen up as the rollers wear, help them out by sanding
them down on the edges just a little, make a nice smooth radius with 600 grit
sand paper.
Hope this helps
Eric
>
> Hi all
>
> Canopy frustration time. Question, after drilling canopy to frame, it causes
the frame to exert pressure on the tracks so that the canopy nolonger rolls ,
but scrapes the track and digs into the aluminum. I widened the tracks about 1/8"
on both sides but no joy.I trimmed the rollers , no joy.I bent the bracket
holding the roller, no joy. What's a body to do,start over? I tried bending the
front bow for conformity to the roll bar and broke it and had to have it welded
so I know I don't want to go that route again. Sometimes the head of the
screw digs in, and sometime the shoulder of the bracket digs in.
>
> I should have built the tip-up!
> Dave Cook Finish Kit/Canopy
Hey Dave.......
I should have built a tip over. I am doing my canopy and I am having same frustrations.
The canopy bow is an abortion as it comes from the factory. !/2 inch
off from the windshild bow in some areas. I straightened, rebent, straightend
and rebent and I am almost there now. Then I talk with others who say theirs mated
right up. Oh well I made my mind up a couple of years ago that it wasnt
going to get any trophy's. About the only thing I havent managed to screwed up
on it is the paint--- It is still in the cans. Phil in Illinois
sometimes, I wish I would have left its engine on the Pitt's......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dag adamson <dag_adamson(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Proprietary Systems AOA - Location suggestions for sensors for |
RV-8
Hello-
Looking for suggestions on placement of AOA sensors
for an RV-8 wing.
I know the instuctions say 10 to 40% of the cord
With the tips off - I was planning on installing the
top and lower sensors in the first bay. Thoughts?
How man inches from the leading edge? or inches from
the forward cutout hole of the rib?
Thanks
Dag
PS please post and email.
====
*****************
Dag Adamson
617 513 1182
Cambridge, MA
Denver, CO
*****************
__________________________________
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Proprietary Systems AOA - Location suggestions for sensors |
for RV-8
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Actually they have detailed info on the web site - I've attached the
link. I just purchased one of these for my RV-10.
http://www.angle-of-attack.com/FAQ.htm Scroll down and there's a table
with locations for a variety of aircraft including all of the RVs.
Bob RV-10 #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of dag adamson
To:
rv-list(at)matronics.com.pts.rule.name.description.----.-------------------
---.-------------------------------------------
Subject: RV-List: Proprietary Systems AOA - Location suggestions for
sensors for RV-8
Hello-
Looking for suggestions on placement of AOA sensors
for an RV-8 wing.
I know the instuctions say 10 to 40% of the cord
With the tips off - I was planning on installing the
top and lower sensors in the first bay. Thoughts?
How man inches from the leading edge? or inches from
the forward cutout hole of the rib?
Thanks
Dag
PS please post and email.
====
*****************
Dag Adamson
617 513 1182
Cambridge, MA
Denver, CO
*****************
__________________________________
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
=
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Suffoletto" <rsuffoletto(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | QB Aft top skin F-7112 (slider canopy0 |
It's not clear to me when you are suppose to rivet on the aft top skin F-7112.
The instructtions end with telling you to cleco on the skin and match up the F-6111
l R brace. I have read through the manual up to and including the canopy
installation and have found no mention of riveting on the Aft top skin. Seems
it should be done before the canopy on a slider.
Can any of you who have been through this give me some guidance?
Thanks
Richard.... drilling out too many rivets...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: QB Aft top skin F-7112 (slider canopy0 |
I did mine right before fitting the slider mechanism...I could have put the clecoes
in from below - but I wanted it to have no chances of changing. No regrets
so far and I'll be working the plastic this summer.
Ralph Capen
6AQB N822AR
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Suffoletto <rsuffoletto(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: QB Aft top skin F-7112 (slider canopy0
It's not clear to me when you are suppose to rivet on the aft top skin F-7112.
The instructtions end with telling you to cleco on the skin and match up the F-6111
l R brace. I have read through the manual up to and including the canopy
installation and have found no mention of riveting on the Aft top skin. Seems
it should be done before the canopy on a slider.
Can any of you who have been through this give me some guidance?
Thanks
Richard.... drilling out too many rivets...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Pro Sys AOA - RV-8 Location |
Dag.
Placement guide for the -8 wing are in the AOA Operating and Installation
Manual, and are as follows:
Wing Span Location--"Middle of the outboard wing bay. Upper port 4 3/4" and
lower port 7 1/2" inboard of the wing skin outer end."
Wing Chord Location-- " 6" forward of the wing skin break [or] about 12" aft
of the leading edge."
Jack, -8 80% Red Wing, MN
From: dag adamson dag_adamson(at)yahoo.com
Subject: RV-List: Proprietary Systems AOA - Location suggestions for
sensors for RV-8
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2004 09:34:41 -0700 (PDT)
Hello-
Looking for suggestions on placement of AOA sensors
for an RV-8 wing.
(snip)
Dag Adamson
Cambridge, MA
Denver, CO
MSN 9 Dial-up Internet Access fights spam and pop-ups now 3 months FREE!
http://join.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200361ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com> |
> EGT readings are relative and always go down as your
> plane goes up. Why?
> because EGT is a measure of the heat or power that
> the engine is producing.
This is not exactly true. EGT goes down as your plane
goes up because the mixture is getting richer (less
air, same fuel).
> Unless your engine is turboed, more altitude always
> means less air. Less
> air, less power, less heat! So your take-off temps
> should be higher than the
> max possible high altitude EGT readings.
PEAK EGT will decrease with altitude BUT don't forget,
proper Sea Level full power mixture is set well rich
of peak (250F).
Somewhere in the neighborhood of 8000', Peak EGT will
be pretty close to sea level takeoff EGT, and also
pretty close to peak power. Since the engine IS
making less power at this altitude, you don't need to
be well rich (or lean) of peak for temperature control.
__________________________________
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Even when leaned, since the air is less dense at higher altitudes, the
naturally aspirated engine with produce less power as the altitude goes up.
Physics being what they are, as the air is less dense from any reason, the
power goes down. Even higher humidity will reduce the power output.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Skylor Piper" <skylor4(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: high egt's
>
> > EGT readings are relative and always go down as your
> > plane goes up. Why?
> > because EGT is a measure of the heat or power that
> > the engine is producing.
>
> This is not exactly true. EGT goes down as your plane
> goes up because the mixture is getting richer (less
> air, same fuel).
>
>
> > Unless your engine is turboed, more altitude always
> > means less air. Less
> > air, less power, less heat! So your take-off temps
> > should be higher than the
> > max possible high altitude EGT readings.
>
> PEAK EGT will decrease with altitude BUT don't forget,
> proper Sea Level full power mixture is set well rich
> of peak (250F).
>
> Somewhere in the neighborhood of 8000', Peak EGT will
> be pretty close to sea level takeoff EGT, and also
> pretty close to peak power. Since the engine IS
> making less power at this altitude, you don't need to
> be well rich (or lean) of peak for temperature control.
>
>
> __________________________________
> http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: SD-20 Alternator installation question |
Ralph,
Update: I just checked the Cleaveland wrench on the RV-7 and it works fine
on the 7 o'clock nut, but it would be easier to get to if the oil filter was
removed. The length of the wrench is just enough to clear the rear of the
SD-20.
Pat
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: SD-20 Alternator installation question
>
> Thanks Pat! - mine is currently off the mount as you have described - I
just
> wanted to know if the tool would fit before I bought it.
>
> How did you measure the torque?...or did you just muscle it, paint a dot
on
> it, and check it regularly?
>
> Looking forward to hearing about that after-mounting access...!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New MicroFilter Oil Filter... |
Thanks. Keep me posted when you get it all worked out.
Indiana Larry, RV7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com>
;
Subject: Re: RV-List: New MicroFilter Oil Filter...
>
> Larry...
>
> The filters have a cleanable and reusable filter element, so you don't
have
> to replace it... The filters are designed to last a lifetime, and will
> easily last the life of your 2000 hour engine! The quad-ring gasket and
the
> spirol lock are also designed to last for the life of your engine, but if
> you should damage them in any way, replacements will be available for just
a
> few bucks each...
>
> Pricing is yet to be determined, but consider this; on a 2000 hour engine,
> and changing the oil and filter every 50 hours, and Champion oil filters
at
> $17 a pop, you talking $680 in filters over the life of your engine...
Even
> if you go 100 hours on the filter you're talking $340!
>
> That said... I am hoping to keep the cost to about $150... I will let
you
> all know when I have all the details worked out...
>
> -Bill VonDane
> EAA Tech Counselor
> RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
> www.vondane.com
> www.creativair.com
> www.epanelbuilder.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" <F.vanderHulst(at)ucol.ac.nz> |
Hmmm... that page says that off-the-shelf hardware and OS are used.
Can I get an "As used in Space" badge for my PC? "Intel Outside (the
Atmosphere)"?
Wonder what the OS is?
This could bring a whole new meaning to Windows BSOD!
Frank
http://www.scaled.com/projects/tierone/data_sheets/html/flight_nav.htm
Learn real skills for the real world - Apply online
at http://www.ucol.ac.nz or call 0800 GO UCOL
(0800 46 8265) or txt free 3388 for more information
and make a good move to UCOL Universal College of
Learning.
Enrol with a public institute and be certain of your
future
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com> |
EGT's alone are not a good measure of engine power:
For example: Run an engine 100 LOP and run 100 ROP at
the same MP. Same EGT, right? Yep Same power?
Absolutely not.
I KNOW less power is made at high altitude with a NA
engine. The last sentence in my previous post states
that...
I guess I should have said "Somewhere in the
neighborhood of 8000', PEAK EGT will be pretty close
to sea level takeoff EGT, and this will also be pretty
close to peak power [for that altitude]."
--- cgalley wrote:
>
>
> Even when leaned, since the air is less dense at
> higher altitudes, the
> naturally aspirated engine with produce less power
> as the altitude goes up.
> Physics being what they are, as the air is less
> dense from any reason, the
> power goes down. Even higher humidity will reduce
> the power output.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Skylor Piper" <skylor4(at)yahoo.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: high egt's
>
>
>
> >
> > > EGT readings are relative and always go down as
> your
> > > plane goes up. Why?
> > > because EGT is a measure of the heat or power
> that
> > > the engine is producing.
> >
> > This is not exactly true. EGT goes down as your
> plane
> > goes up because the mixture is getting richer
> (less
> > air, same fuel).
> >
> >
> > > Unless your engine is turboed, more altitude
> always
> > > means less air. Less
> > > air, less power, less heat! So your take-off
> temps
> > > should be higher than the
> > > max possible high altitude EGT readings.
> >
> > PEAK EGT will decrease with altitude BUT don't
> forget,
> > proper Sea Level full power mixture is set well
> rich
> > of peak (250F).
> >
> > Somewhere in the neighborhood of 8000', Peak EGT
> will
> > be pretty close to sea level takeoff EGT, and also
> > pretty close to peak power. Since the engine IS
> > making less power at this altitude, you don't need
> to
> > be well rich (or lean) of peak for temperature
> control.
> >
> >
>
__________________________________
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Proprietary Systems AOA - Location suggestions for sensors |
for RV-8
Dag,
I know you've a couple of good responses. If you still have any questions -
I'd give Jim Frantz a call at Pro Sys. Have you decided where you're going
to locate the indicator? If you decide to place it above the glare shield in
the Left side - Jim makes a holder for it.
Good Building,
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: dag adamson <dag_adamson(at)yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>rv-list(at)matronics.com.pts.rule.name.description.----.----------------------.-------------------------------------------
>Subject: RV-List: Proprietary Systems AOA - Location suggestions for
>sensors for RV-8
>Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2004 09:34:41 -0700 (PDT)
>
>
>Hello-
>
>Looking for suggestions on placement of AOA sensors
>for an RV-8 wing.
>
>I know the instuctions say 10 to 40% of the cord
>
>With the tips off - I was planning on installing the
>top and lower sensors in the first bay. Thoughts?
>
>How man inches from the leading edge? or inches from
>the forward cutout hole of the rib?
>
>Thanks
>Dag
>PS please post and email.
>
>====
>*****************
>Dag Adamson
>617 513 1182
>Cambridge, MA
>Denver, CO
>*****************
>
>
>__________________________________
>http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
>
>
http://join.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200361ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Anglin" <jlanglin44(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin/Navaid interface |
Thanks for the help.............you are the only one of all those Rocket
Scientists on the list who responded. I don't know if there is a difference
in pinouts between a panel mount and handheld, but I found out that I can
use the Deviation Bar pinouts (R & L) from the GPS to the AP-1 pins 3 and 6
since the GPS output is analog on these two pins. I got this from a tech
at Pacific Coast Avionics.
Thanks again
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: <Hopperdhh(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin/Navaid interface
>
>
> Hi Jim,
>
> See the page 7 in your Navaid manual for Fig. 3. In my manual there are 2
> page 7's and 2 Fig. 3's! You want the one titled "WIRING DIAGRAM FOR
HAND-HELD
> GPS AND AP-1 WITH GPS COUPLER." It shows the Data Out pin of the GPS
going to
> pin 8 of the Autopilot. Ground of the GPS also needs to go to ground of
the
> Autopilot (pin 1). You also need to connect 2 jumpers: one from pin 11 to
pin
> 3, and one from pin 12 to pin 6. The pins on the GPS you can find in your
> GPS manual or on the internet by searching for "Garmin connector." I used
a
> twisted pair of wires to make the connection.
>
> A Garmin connector is avaliable at pfranc.com that is only $5 if your GNC
> 300XL has the same connector as the Garmin 295.
>
> You will need to go to the interface screen on the GPS and enable the NMEA
> output. This causes the GPS to send serial (ASCII) data which the Smart
Coupler
> receives and converts to an analog voltage which comes out pins 11 and 12,
> and goes back into pins 3 and 6.
>
> Hope this helps,
>
> Dan Hopper
> RV-7A (Taxi testing & waiting for inspection)
>
>
> In a message dated 6/17/04 11:49:51 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
> jlanglin44(at)earthlink.net writes:
>
> >
> >
> > I am having trouble figuring out which pin goes to which pin to navigate
> > with input from my Garmin GNC 300XL to my Navaid autopilot. If anyone
out
> > there has some positive input I will listen. I have the Smart Coupler
in my
> > autopilot if that helps.
> >
> > Jim Anglin
> > HR II
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruno <rv4(at)videotron.ca> |
Hello Bill
I've been flying behind a 3 bladded Catto Prop on my RV-4 for
the last 3 years and I can tell you that I wouldn't trade it for any wood
or fix pitch metal prop for all the gold in world (Well maybe for all the
gold in the world).
It is very well built and very smooth compared to my previous
wood prop ( B.Warnke) and the better ground clearance is a plus on gravel
or dirt strip.
Craig Catto has been very nice to deal with but expect a 2.5
to 3 months delivery window.Specially before the Reno Races which keep Craig
pretty busy.
Hope it answered some of your questions.
Cheers
Bruno Dionne
rv4(at)videotron.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin/Navaid interface |
Jim,
I was thinking handheld GPS in my reply. Glad that you were able to get it
connected. You don't need the smart coupler for the GNC 300XL. Maybe you can
sell it to someone without a panel mount GPS. Its just a small board added
inside the Autopilot head.
Dan Hopper
In a message dated 6/22/04 7:04:31 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
jlanglin44(at)earthlink.net writes:
>
>
> Thanks for the help.............you are the only one of all those Rocket
> Scientists on the list who responded. I don't know if there is a difference
> in pinouts between a panel mount and handheld, but I found out that I can
> use the Deviation Bar pinouts (R &L) from the GPS to the AP-1 pins 3 and 6
> since the GPS output is analog on these two pins. I got this from a tech
> at Pacific Coast Avionics.
>
> Thanks again
>
> Jim
>
> >In a message dated 6/17/04 11:49:51 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
> >jlanglin44(at)earthlink.net writes:
> >
> >>
> >>
> >>I am having trouble figuring out which pin goes to which pin to navigate
> >>with input from my Garmin GNC 300XL to my Navaid autopilot. If anyone
> out
> >>there has some positive input I will listen. I have the Smart Coupler
> in my
> >>autopilot if that helps.
> >>
> >>Jim Anglin
> >>HR II
> >>
> >>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Catto Prop VS |
Bruno...
What engine you running? How much does the -4 weigh? Can you give me any
performance numbers?
Thanks!
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruno" <rv4(at)videotron.ca>
description ---- ---------------------- ------------------------------------
-------"
Subject: RV-List: Catto Prop VS
Hello Bill
I've been flying behind a 3 bladded Catto Prop on my RV-4 for
the last 3 years and I can tell you that I wouldn't trade it for any wood
or fix pitch metal prop for all the gold in world (Well maybe for all the
gold in the world).
It is very well built and very smooth compared to my previous
wood prop ( B.Warnke) and the better ground clearance is a plus on gravel
or dirt strip.
Craig Catto has been very nice to deal with but expect a 2.5
to 3 months delivery window.Specially before the Reno Races which keep Craig
pretty busy.
Hope it answered some of your questions.
Cheers
Bruno Dionne
rv4(at)videotron.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vic Jacko" <vicwj(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | 2 1/4" Instruments for sale |
Hi you RV-4 and 8 builders,
I have almost a whole panel of new and used 2 1/4 " instrument and gauges for sale.
Please call or e-mail me off-list for info and prices.
Vic
505-622-8513
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh RV Camping |
The location of homebuilt camping is new this year. They created an
area for camping which is immediately west of the area used for RV
parking the past few years (in the old red lot auto parking.) It is for
all homebuilt types, and is first come, first served. There will be
showers and porta-potties (we call 'em Glasairs) in the area.
For the past few years, homebuilt camping has been allowed down in
Antique/ Classic at the south end of the grounds, and I imagine you
could camp there as well this year. Just be sure to read the Notam and
have the appropriate sign in your window so the ground volunteers know
where to direct you.
Jeff Point
RV-6 65 hours
Milwaukee WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | FwdBaggageHingePin |
In order to remove the forward baggage door hinge pin from the engine compartment
of my RV8A, I'm going to have to file a groove about half the thickness of
the flange of the cowling top attach hinge in order to provide enough bend relief
to remove and insert the pin. In your experience, has such a thing posed
a hazard to the integrity of the cowling attachment? Has another approach to
engine-side removal made this unnecessary?
Dave Reel - RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
| Subject: | Oshkosh RV Camping |
I'll meet you over by the Glasair and bring a six-pack of "RV's" with
me.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Point
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oshkosh RV Camping
The location of homebuilt camping is new this year. They created an
area for camping which is immediately west of the area used for RV
parking the past few years (in the old red lot auto parking.) It is for
all homebuilt types, and is first come, first served. There will be
showers and porta-potties (we call 'em Glasairs) in the area.
For the past few years, homebuilt camping has been allowed down in
Antique/ Classic at the south end of the grounds, and I imagine you
could camp there as well this year. Just be sure to read the Notam and
have the appropriate sign in your window so the ground volunteers know
where to direct you.
Jeff Point
RV-6 65 hours
Milwaukee WI
>
>
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andy" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | slight stumble in engine |
My 0-360 has developed a slight stumble as I throttle from idle past 1500 rpm.
It happens every time, regardless of the mixture setting or how fast throttle
is applied. There is no stumble when reducing power, and I can hold smooth power
at that 1500 rpm mark. Power is smooth and consistent in all other modes.
The engine is carbureted with a 20 hour old Slick mag on one side and a 20 hour
old Lightspeed on the other. Compression is good. Timing is good.
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rebibb(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: slight stumble in engine |
Sounds like the accelerator pump in the carb or a blocked passage in the venturi
of the carb. There are three small holes in the main venturi body of the carb
that work to provide a smooth idle and to meter fule smoothly as the butterfly
valve opens during acceleration. If one of those is blocked it could cause
a problem. The accelerator pump might also be defective in the carb and that
would produce the same symptom.
>
> My 0-360 has developed a slight stumble as I throttle from idle past 1500 rpm.
> It happens every time, regardless of the mixture setting or how fast throttle
is
> applied. There is no stumble when reducing power, and I can hold smooth power
> at that 1500 rpm mark. Power is smooth and consistent in all other modes.
>
> The engine is carbureted with a 20 hour old Slick mag on one side and a 20 hour
> old Lightspeed on the other. Compression is good. Timing is good.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Thanks,
> Andy
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: slight stumble in engine |
In a message dated 6/23/04 4:25:49 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com writes:
> My 0-360 has developed a slight stumble as I throttle from idle past 1500
> rpm. It happens every time, regardless of the mixture setting or how fast
> throttle is applied. There is no stumble when reducing power, and I can hold
> smooth power at that 1500 rpm mark. Power is smooth and consistent in all
> other modes.
>
> The engine is carbureted with a 20 hour old Slick mag on one side and a 20
> hour old Lightspeed on the other. Compression is good. Timing is good.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Thanks,
> Andy
>
accelerator pump
Sal Capra
Lakeland, FL
My Home Page
http://hometown.aol.com/cbrxxdrv/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Pflimlin" <pablo(at)phonewave.net> |
Question for tilt canopy RV-6-7-&9's.:: What is the purpose/advantage/disadvantage
of having plexiglass, behind the cokpit over the baggage compartment??
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Essential Tools in the Hangar |
How 'bout some thoughts on what to keep at the hangar for routine maintenance on
the RV. My tools are currently spread out at three different locations and
I need to do something to increase the current near-zero probability of having
the right tools in the right place at the right time.
Here is my first pass. The idea is to have the essential tools to maintain the
airplane, including condition inspections.
Hand Tools:
Wrenches - open and box end - 1/4" to 1".
Sockets 1/4" to 1",
Rachet Drives - 1/4" & 3/8"
Torque wrench for prop bolts
Screwdrivers - Phillips & Slot
Offset screwdrivers - Phillips & Slot
Safety Wire pliers
Safety wire (.032 & .040)
Side cutters
Battery operated screwdriver.
Inspection Mirror(s)
Ball peen hammer
Lubrication:
Grease gun.
Oil funnel
Oil drain pan
Hose to fit sump quick drain
Miscellaneous:
Mineral Spirits for cleaning greasy stuff
Cleaning cloths
First aid kit.
Flashlight
Battery Charger
Creeper
3' x 6' workbench w/ vise
Inexpensive multi-meter
Environment Modification:
Lighting - Portable Halogen
Lighting - Flourescent drop light
Heater - Gas fired
Undercarriage Maintenance:
Jack apparatus for main gear.
Baby powder for new tubes
Air source for inflating tires.
Pressure gauge
Valve stem extension.
Brake pad rivet tool
Consumables:
Paper towels
Trash bags
Oil
Oil Filters
Grease
Zip Ties
Manuals:
Electroair
Lycoming
AC 43.XX
Other:
Compression test rig - borrow or rent
Mag Timing Rig - borrow or rent
I left off the "luxuries" category because it tends to be excessive...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Walker" <ron(at)walker.net> |
You can check your 6 while in flight!
Great visibility
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Pflimlin" <pablo(at)phonewave.net>
Subject: RV-List: Tilt canapy
>
> Question for tilt canopy RV-6-7-&9's.:: What is the
purpose/advantage/disadvantage of having plexiglass, behind the cokpit over
the baggage compartment??
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Essential Tools in the Hangar |
Why not change your approach? Bring all your tools to the hangar then figure
out what you need elsewhere. There is benefit to being able to say "Gee
honey, all my tools are at the airport. I'll get to it later."
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
>
> -->
>
> How 'bout some thoughts on what to keep at the hangar for
> routine maintenance on the RV. My tools are currently spread
> out at three different locations and I need to do something
> to increase the current near-zero probability of having the
> right tools in the right place at the right time.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
Or at least check 5 and 7. 6 isn't really visible.
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Walker
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tilt canapy
You can check your 6 while in flight!
Great visibility
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Pflimlin" <pablo(at)phonewave.net>
Subject: RV-List: Tilt canapy
>
> Question for tilt canopy RV-6-7-&9's.:: What is the
purpose/advantage/disadvantage of having plexiglass, behind the cokpit
over
the baggage compartment??
>
>
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Schlotthauer" <rv7maker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | polishing aluminum |
I have been polishing my slider canopy track and rails for the last few
days. I have heard that putting a coat of clear over them will preserve the
shine. Any truth to this fellas? The initial polishing is a lot of work
but I think cleaning them back up once and a while would be farily easy.
Note to newbies: Polishing aluminum with rouge and a buffing wheel makes a
huge mess. Cover up anything you don't want to have an oily red film over.
-Ross Schlotthauer
RV-7 Finishing
www.experimentalair.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Essential Tools in the Hangar |
Forgot the refrigerator!!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Essential Tools in the Hangar
>
> How 'bout some thoughts on what to keep at the hangar for routine
maintenance on the RV. My tools are currently spread out at three different
locations and I need to do something to increase the current near-zero
probability of having the right tools in the right place at the right time.
>
> Here is my first pass. The idea is to have the essential tools to
maintain the airplane, including condition inspections.
>
> Hand Tools:
>
> Wrenches - open and box end - 1/4" to 1".
> Sockets 1/4" to 1",
> Rachet Drives - 1/4" & 3/8"
> Torque wrench for prop bolts
> Screwdrivers - Phillips & Slot
> Offset screwdrivers - Phillips & Slot
> Safety Wire pliers
> Safety wire (.032 & .040)
> Side cutters
> Battery operated screwdriver.
> Inspection Mirror(s)
> Ball peen hammer
>
>
> Lubrication:
>
> Grease gun.
> Oil funnel
> Oil drain pan
> Hose to fit sump quick drain
>
>
> Miscellaneous:
>
> Mineral Spirits for cleaning greasy stuff
> Cleaning cloths
> First aid kit.
> Flashlight
> Battery Charger
> Creeper
> 3' x 6' workbench w/ vise
> Inexpensive multi-meter
>
>
> Environment Modification:
>
> Lighting - Portable Halogen
> Lighting - Flourescent drop light
> Heater - Gas fired
>
>
> Undercarriage Maintenance:
>
> Jack apparatus for main gear.
> Baby powder for new tubes
> Air source for inflating tires.
> Pressure gauge
> Valve stem extension.
> Brake pad rivet tool
>
>
> Consumables:
>
> Paper towels
> Trash bags
> Oil
> Oil Filters
> Grease
> Zip Ties
>
>
> Manuals:
>
> Electroair
> Lycoming
> AC 43.XX
>
>
> Other:
>
> Compression test rig - borrow or rent
> Mag Timing Rig - borrow or rent
>
>
> I left off the "luxuries" category because it tends to be excessive...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: polishing aluminum |
Why not polish and then clear annodize, then a final buffing, keeps the
shine a lot longer and makes it more wear resistance, the'll get a
slightly darker appearance bit worth it.
Gert
Ross Schlotthauer wrote:
>
>
> I have been polishing my slider canopy track and rails for the last few
> days. I have heard that putting a coat of clear over them will preserve the
> shine. Any truth to this fellas? The initial polishing is a lot of work
> but I think cleaning them back up once and a while would be farily easy.
>
> Note to newbies: Polishing aluminum with rouge and a buffing wheel makes a
> huge mess. Cover up anything you don't want to have an oily red film over.
>
> -Ross Schlotthauer
> RV-7 Finishing
> www.experimentalair.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Cowling mounting without prop |
Listers:
I have some instructions for mounting my cowling without having a prop in
hand. I would like to set up my RV-6 for a C/S Hartzell and wanted to know
from someone that has mounted the cowling in this fashion, what the correct
spacing is from the crankshaft starting ring to the back of the spinner. I
believe it is 2.25". Anyone have some advice on this?
Marty in Brentwood TN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Cool Collar oil filter cooler. |
> Water will boil off as the oil hits the bottom of the pistons
> which are about
> 40 or 50 degrees hotter than the average oil temperature. So
> it is not
> really necessary to get the indicated oil temperature above
> the boiling point of
> water.
>
I put some water out on the table at room temperature, and guess what?
It dried. As stated above, don't get worried about whether or not the
oil is at or above water's boiling temperature, that doesn't matter.
What matters for driving out moisture is how long it is at a given
temperature. Hotter equals faster, cooler equals slower.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 483 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Oshkosh RV Camping |
They will have a new this year homebuilt camping area near the RV ghetto and
Replica Fighters area. It's certainly close to the action but space is
limited. The showplane camping extends from the antique/classic area south
to somewhere well past the ultralights (Fond du Lac?;). The past 2 years
I've been in the vintage area with my Navion and have thoroughly enjoyed it
vs the North 40. The big benefits are proximity to the show, convenience and
the overall atmosphere. The North 40 feels more like a transient motel and
the showplane area is more like a community. Your neighbors are more likely
to share common interests and you get a lot of visitors stopping if you stay
by the plane. I found I would go back to the plane to drop off purchases and
sit under the wing (it's a big plane) to relax or watch the airshow. Of
course, I've been parked near the Homebuilt Cafe and I suspect that the
atmosphere and convenience would diminish as you got closer to the
Ultralight area and disappear south of that.
The downside is food, groceries and ice. The camp store at Camp Schoeller is
a good hike. The Ultralight store is closer but a more limited selection.
Evening food is very limited as well, it's one thing that SnF does better.
The North 40's access to Friar Tuck, Wal Mart, etc. was sorely missed. Also
be aware that if you arrive before the show starts your choices are pretty
much limited to Tall Pines Cafe down by the Ultralights. They started
providing breakfast and dinner before the show 2 years ago and they were the
only game in town. Make sure you know their hours and go early because they
have run out of food. If you miss it, it's a bitch to find your way to an
off airport eatery.
The earlier you arrive the better your location will be but you may get
lucky and fill-in for a mid-week departure, something they do better in
Showplane parking than the North 40. Also, as far as I know, Showplane
camping has never closed - one more advantage over the North 40.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY - project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of GMC
> Sent: Wednesday, June 23, 2004 12:30 PM
> To: Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com
> Subject: RV-List: Oshkosh RV Camping
>
>
>
> I cannot find a description on EAA web site of facilities or
> location of show-plane camping area at Oshkosh.
>
> My previous trips to Oshkosh were in Cessna (last in 2000)
> and I have always camped under wing in North 40. This year I
> will be in the RV-6A and I would like information about the
> show-plane camping area.
>
> Can someone who was there last year fill me in about camping,
> facilities, pro & con of camping in (RV) show-plane area
> versus the North 40.
>
> Thanks
>
> George in Langley
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Comeaux" <mcomeaux(at)bendnet.com> |
| Subject: | Pilot operrating handbook |
Is there a web site someone can down load a POH for a RV6A
180 HP fixed pitch?
REgards Mike Comeaux
mcomeaux(at)bendnet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cowling mounting without prop |
Van's has directions on how to do this on their website. Be advised that on
a RV-7 that we have been working on, we used the dimensions in the directions,
then ended up with about a 1/4" interference when I actually installed the
prop. We had to re-cut the back end of the cowl to get clearance.
You can shim the back plate some on C/S props, but initially ours was no were
close.
-Mike Kraus
N223RV RV-4 Flying
N213RV RV-10 Empennage complete, working on Tailcone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Bertsch <noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Upper Gear Leg Fairing |
The upper gear leg fairing on our RV-4 keeps cracking and pulling loose from its
attach points. It is screwed to the underside of the gear leg and the front
edge of the fairing is attached to the lower portion of the cowling. I think
the gear leg moves so much that rigid attachments may not be a good idea. Years
ago I saw an RV-6 that had a spring that attached to the inside of the fairing
and simply held the fairing in place. That sounds interesting and can anyone
send pictures of such a design? Anyone have an RV-4 with something similar
- or maybe a better suggestion.
Thanks.
Jeff Bertsch
RV-4 Houston, TX
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smoothweasel(at)juno.com |
Hey do any of you have or know where I can get a 13" Polished Alum.
Spinner for a O-320 with a Hartzell HCYL prop hub.
Phone numbers are ideal however if you send a web link I will try to find
somewhere that I can vew it.
Weasel Graber
-4 (38.5hr of super fun)
Brooksville MS
662 574 5210
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vic Jacko" <vicwj(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Instruments for Sale |
Here is the list:
New UMA, New in Box
VSI ....... 2,000-0-2,000......... $169.00
ALT........20,0000 '.....................$139.00
ASI.........40 to 240 MPH............$99.00
Mitchell Pictorial T and B used and yellow tagged, face in near perfect condition........$199.00
G-Meter, new condition but not in box............$199.00
Two inch black, new in box gauges:
Volt Meter.......$29.00
Ammeter........$29.00
Oil Temp with sender....... $59.00
Oil Pressure with sender.....$59.00
Also have used ASI 3 1/8" .......40 to 200 MPH..........$99.00
All the above prices plus shipping
Vic Jacko
505-622-8513
Roswell, NM
Nm-rv mailing list
Nm-rv@nm-rv-builders.org
http://nm-rv-builders.org/mailman/listinfo/nm-rv_nm-rv-builders.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Upper Gear Leg Fairing |
In a message dated 6/23/04 9:41:17 PM Central Daylight Time,
noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com writes:
The upper gear leg fairing on our RV-4 keeps cracking and pulling loose from
its attach point.
You can rivet an aluminum angle to both sides of the inside of the fairing
and tie a loop of safety wire between them. Then put an Adel clamp around the
motor mount and run a spring down to the wire loop from the bolt in the clamp.
this has worked well on my -4.
Pat Allender
Iowa City
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Pilot operrating handbook |
On Wed, 23 Jun 2004, Mike Comeaux wrote:
> Is there a web site someone can down load a POH for a RV6A
> 180 HP fixed pitch?
Mike:
On our web site we have a POH for an RV-6A with an O-320 and CS prop and one
for an O-360 FP prop. You may be able to combine them to come up with a POH
for your airplane. You will, of course, have to fill in the numbers unique to
your plane.
http://www.vansairforce.org/POH/
Tedd McHenry
Van's Air Force
Western Canada Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Keith T Uhls <keithuhls(at)juno.com> |
RVers,
I have a 24 hour layover in Fort Wayne IN this Fri/Sat. (June 25th/26th)
I would love to come see some ones project, plane or just shoot the
breeze. Please contact me either via e-mail or phone. (512)740-8457.
Keith Uhls
RV-7
FInish Kit
About to run the engine....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Psiropoulos" <deanpsir(at)easystreet.com> |
| Subject: | Vertical Stab Alignment |
Anybody have a quick and easy way to set the leading edge of the Vertical
stabilizer before drilling its front spar to the horizontal stabilizer? I
have measured across the front spar of the horizontal stabilizer and made a
mark at the midpoint as a reference thinking that if I align the midpoint of
the vertical stab spar with this mark I'll get the vertical stab centered on
the centerline of the fuselage as recommended by the plans (no left or right
offset). I'm thinking this should give me a good reference point but is
there a better/easier way? Also, has anyone canted the vertical stab to the
left to compensate for P-factor and torque? If so how much should it be
canted (inches off centerline reference) to compensate for the torque of a
180 horse 0-360 Lycoming at 75% cruise? Is this a good idea or should I
just put the small wedge on the rudder and compensate for it that way?
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Putting the BIG pieces together!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "GMC" <gmcnutt(at)uniserve.com> |
| Subject: | slight stumble in engine |
Hi Andy
My carbureted 0-320 has a slight stumble about 1400 RPM when power is
increased slowly, only notice it occasionally and usually in level off from
descent. I have been told that is the change-over from carb idle system to
main jet.
Catches your attention the first few times you notice it.
George in Langley
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Andy
Subject: RV-List: slight stumble in engine
My 0-360 has developed a slight stumble as I throttle from idle past 1500
rpm. It happens every time, regardless of the mixture setting or how fast
throttle is applied. There is no stumble when reducing power, and I can
hold smooth power at that 1500 rpm mark. Power is smooth and consistent in
all other modes.
The engine is carbureted with a 20 hour old Slick mag on one side and a 20
hour old Lightspeed on the other. Compression is good. Timing is good.
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Hot air box with Ellison |
| From: | Phil Chapman <CHAPMAP(at)uk.ibm.com> |
24/06/2004 09:11:46
Hi,
Does anyone have a good design of a hot air box for use with a forward
facing Ellison carb, any help appreciated.
Cheers
Phil Chapman
Internet Chapmap(at)uk.ibm.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Dynon EFIS-D10A Usability |
A few of questions about the Dynon EFIS for those that have flown with it for
a while.
Why haven't I heard anyone talk about it's Angle of Attack performance?
Does the AOA work well? Is it's display too small to be easily used in the
pattern?
Same for the VSI. I have heard that it's very hard to use in flight -
requires one to study it vs. quick glance. Why is that and have they tried to
fix
it yet?
For those that are using it, besides an alternate ASI and Altimeter, what
other steam gauge do you recommend to buy to make life easier? For example, is
the G meter too difficult to read during acro?
Finally, it's encoder. What's a good transponder that can take read it's
seriel output? The one I was contemplating appears setup for a parallel signal.
thx,
lucky
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvsearey(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Vertical Stab Alignment |
In a message dated 06/24/2004 1:10:36 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
deanpsir(at)easystreet.com writes:
> Also, has anyone canted the vertical stab to the
> left to compensate for P-factor and torque
Dean, I offset the vertical stab 3/16th inch to the left on my RV-4 (180 HP,
CS prop) and no rudder trim was required.
Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pilot operrating handbook |
Here are several POH's that may be beneficial.
http://www.vansairforce.net/poh.htm
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
N296JC RV6
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Comeaux" <mcomeaux(at)bendnet.com>
Subject: RV-List: Pilot operrating handbook
>
> Is there a web site someone can down load a POH for a RV6A
> 180 HP fixed pitch?
>
> REgards Mike Comeaux
> mcomeaux(at)bendnet.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV-List Digest: 44 Msgs - 06/23/04 |
> The North 40's access to Friar Tuck, Wal Mart, etc. was sorely missed.
Wal Mart moved some time ago. It's now several miles away.
Bummer. It was a good source for all the stuff I forgot to pack.
gm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Vertical Stab Alignment |
I stretched a string above the fuselage center line so I could drop
plumb bobs. Then it's a simple matter to make a center mark on the top
skin and you can do any offsets from there.
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dean
Psiropoulos
Subject: RV-List: Vertical Stab Alignment
Anybody have a quick and easy way to set the leading edge of the
Vertical
stabilizer before drilling its front spar to the horizontal stabilizer?
I
have measured across the front spar of the horizontal stabilizer and
made a
mark at the midpoint as a reference thinking that if I align the
midpoint of
the vertical stab spar with this mark I'll get the vertical stab
centered on
the centerline of the fuselage as recommended by the plans (no left or
right
offset). I'm thinking this should give me a good reference point but is
there a better/easier way? Also, has anyone canted the vertical stab to
the
left to compensate for P-factor and torque? If so how much should it be
canted (inches off centerline reference) to compensate for the torque of
a
180 horse 0-360 Lycoming at 75% cruise? Is this a good idea or should I
just put the small wedge on the rudder and compensate for it that way?
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Putting the BIG pieces together!
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Dynon EFIS-D10A Usability |
>Same for the VSI. I have heard that it's very hard to use in flight -
>requires one to study it vs. quick glance. Why is that and have they tried
>to fix
>it yet?
It has very small numbers on the display, but does work well. For me, it's
much easier to glance at the old steam gauge VSI. Seems that Dynon could
make the display items optionally large or small with some future software
rev. That might make it better. But when they get the autopilot system
finished, it'll be a moot point - for cruise anyway! ;)
>For those that are using it, besides an alternate ASI and Altimeter, what
>other steam gauge do you recommend to buy to make life easier?
I like my current arrangement - Typical 6-pack with Dynon top center and
Garmin 196 embedded bottom center. Might go with 2.25" instruments when I
built my F-1 (wishing) at some point in the future.
>For example, is the G meter too difficult to read during acro?
No, I have trained my eyes to know where to go when I'm pulling. It works
OK and I believe I like not having the old analog G-meter in the panel.
For normal flight, and even IMC, I pretty much use the Dynon for attitude
only. still like the conventional altimeter, airspeed, VSI.
Don't get me wrong though... I think the Dynon EFIS is one of the best
homebuilder avionics developments in the last 20 years.
>Finally, it's encoder. What's a good transponder that can take read it's
>seriel output? The one I was contemplating appears setup for a parallel
>signal.
Contemplating the change to the D-10A, I am faced with putting that d@##
encoder back in or switching transponders (MORE $$!). I believe I'd go with
the Garmin GTX-327. Solid state, digital, about $1900 and Garmin. Not sure
what I'll do about the xpdr situation... Probably put the encoder back in.
Bryan Jones -8
www.LoneStarSquadron.com
Houston, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ned Thomas" <923te(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Jeff Rose Electroair web site? |
Anyone know of a link to information on Jeff Rose Electroair electronic
ignition?
Thanks,
Ned
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LML Klingmuller" <l_klingmuller(at)earthlink.net> |
LIGHT, LOOKS (while parked) , for all to see what you have in the baggage compartment
and more glass to polish.
Ggo to a tip up and cover it with dark paper to see what it looks like.
LML Klingmuller
l_klingmuller(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Schlotthauer" <rv7maker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Dynon EFIS-D10A Usability |
I have only flown my 7 around inside the garage, but... it's encoder seems
to work fine with the garmin GTX-327. The g-meter is very consistent in
letting me know that no matter how sharp I pull back on the stick, I can't
pull more than 1.0 G's.
-Ross Schlotthauer
RV-7 Finishing
www.experimentalair.com
>From: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Dynon EFIS-D10A Usability
>Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2004 08:46:33 -0500
>
>
> >Same for the VSI. I have heard that it's very hard to use in flight -
> >requires one to study it vs. quick glance. Why is that and have they
>tried
> >to fix
> >it yet?
>
>It has very small numbers on the display, but does work well. For me, it's
>much easier to glance at the old steam gauge VSI. Seems that Dynon could
>make the display items optionally large or small with some future software
>rev. That might make it better. But when they get the autopilot system
>finished, it'll be a moot point - for cruise anyway! ;)
>
> >For those that are using it, besides an alternate ASI and Altimeter, what
> >other steam gauge do you recommend to buy to make life easier?
>
>I like my current arrangement - Typical 6-pack with Dynon top center and
>Garmin 196 embedded bottom center. Might go with 2.25" instruments when I
>built my F-1 (wishing) at some point in the future.
>
> >For example, is the G meter too difficult to read during acro?
>
>No, I have trained my eyes to know where to go when I'm pulling. It works
>OK and I believe I like not having the old analog G-meter in the panel.
>
>For normal flight, and even IMC, I pretty much use the Dynon for attitude
>only. still like the conventional altimeter, airspeed, VSI.
>
>Don't get me wrong though... I think the Dynon EFIS is one of the best
>homebuilder avionics developments in the last 20 years.
>
> >Finally, it's encoder. What's a good transponder that can take read it's
> >seriel output? The one I was contemplating appears setup for a parallel
> >signal.
>
>Contemplating the change to the D-10A, I am faced with putting that d@##
>encoder back in or switching transponders (MORE $$!). I believe I'd go
>with
>the Garmin GTX-327. Solid state, digital, about $1900 and Garmin. Not
>sure
>what I'll do about the xpdr situation... Probably put the encoder back in.
>
>Bryan Jones -8
>www.LoneStarSquadron.com
>Houston, Texas
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowling mounting without prop |
Hi Marty:
On my 6A the distance from the front of the teeth on the ring gear to the
rear edge of the backing plate for the spinner is 3 and 1/32 inches . This
is a Aero Sport 0360 with a Hartzell HC=C2YK-1BF/F7666A-4. This gives me
about 3/16 gap.The backing plate is from a 1998 finishing kit.
Eustace
----- Original Message -----
From: "Emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Cowling mounting without prop
>
> Listers:
> I have some instructions for mounting my cowling without having a prop in
> hand. I would like to set up my RV-6 for a C/S Hartzell and wanted to know
> from someone that has mounted the cowling in this fashion, what the
correct
> spacing is from the crankshaft starting ring to the back of the spinner.
I
> believe it is 2.25". Anyone have some advice on this?
> Marty in Brentwood TN
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dale Mitchell <dfm4290(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Jeff Rose Electroair web site? |
TRY THIS LINK
http://www.fly-gbi.com/EIS.htm
Dale Mitchell
--- Ned Thomas <923te(at)cox.net> wrote:
> <923te(at)cox.net>
>
> Anyone know of a link to information on Jeff Rose
> Electroair electronic
> ignition?
> Thanks,
> Ned
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
| Subject: | Insurance Requirement Change |
I was just informed by Nation Air that under the Van Guard program, when
writing on Phoenix Aviation Underwriters, that pilots 70 years of age or
older are now required by the underwriter to have an ANNUAL MEDICAL
examination... class 3 for private pilot...even though FAA only requires the
exam every TWO years.
The agent suggested that the annual exam isn't required under the EAA
program for the same coverage, but having just checked for another pilot
that the rate would be $350 more than Phoenix wants.
Any suggestions short of selling the plane?
John at Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV9 <rv9(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Insurance Requirement Change |
Hello John,
It looks to me like you have at least three choices
besides selling the plane.
1. Pay the extra $350 dollars/year for coverage.
2. Take the yearly medical exam.
3. Fly without insurance.
They are listed in my personal order of preference.
Steve Mottin
RV-9A Fuselage
N609RV (Reserved)
Granbury, Texas
Thursday, June 24, 2004, 2:52:31 PM, you wrote:
J> I was just informed by Nation Air that under the Van Guard program, when
J> writing on Phoenix Aviation Underwriters, that pilots 70 years of age or
J> older are now required by the underwriter to have an ANNUAL MEDICAL
J> examination... class 3 for private pilot...even though FAA only requires the
J> exam every TWO years.
J> The agent suggested that the annual exam isn't required under the EAA
J> program for the same coverage, but having just checked for another pilot
J> that the rate would be $350 more than Phoenix wants.
J> Any suggestions short of selling the plane?
J> John at Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Prior" <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Insurance Requirement Change |
On 15:59 31/12/1969 "John" wrote:
> The agent suggested that the annual exam isn't required under the EAA
> program for the same coverage, but having just checked for another pilot
> that the rate would be $350 more than Phoenix wants.
>
> Any suggestions short of selling the plane?
One thing comes to mind: get a medical every year.
Living in Canada, and being under 45, I only need a medical every *five*
years to meet Transport Canada requirements for my PPL. But if I want to
fly into the US, I have to get one every *two* years, because the FAA
doesn't recognize medical periods longer than 2 years. Yes, it's annoying.
But really, it's not that big a deal. I just tell myself that if there is
something medically wrong with me, that it's best to catch it sooner rather
than later.
Insurance companies are always going to be looking for ways to reduce
costs. Phoenix has just decided that this will be one way they reduce
their costs this year, by trying to find pilots with medical problems one
year earlier than the FAA would.
So, compare the cost of the extra medical to the $350 more it would cost to
go elsewhere, and take the cheaper of the two options (and it's probably
still Phoenix). Really, there isn't much other choice, unless you would
rather make a point of switching to EAA's insurance, and paying more, just
on principle.
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Airplanes on the cheap |
The EAA Homebuilt Council wants to showcase at AirVenture recently built
experimentals that were built for $10,000, $20,000 and $30,000. If you
know of anyone who has built an airplane that fits one of these
categories who would like to be in the spotlight there and in a future
issue of Sport Aviation, have them contact Wally Anderson at
WALLYANDER(at)earthlink.net.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Airplanes on the cheap |
What a great angle. I don't think most people realize that they can build a fly
a good airplane for less than what they paid for their SUV.
If $35,000 qualifies, I'm in.
Ross Mickey wrote:
The EAA Homebuilt Council wants to showcase at AirVenture recently built
experimentals that were built for $10,000, $20,000 and $30,000. If you
know of anyone who has built an airplane that fits one of these
categories who would like to be in the spotlight there and in a future
issue of Sport Aviation, have them contact Wally Anderson at
WALLYANDER(at)earthlink.net.
tion
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vic Jacko" <vicwj(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Rear Facing Sump I0-320BIA |
List, I have a rear (aft) facing sump for a Lycoming I0-320 BIA in perfect condition
if anyone is interested. (cheap)
Vic
505-622-8513
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "czechsix(at)juno.com" <czechsix(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV List Spinner |
Weasel,
You can get one from George Ordorff (his contact info is in the yeller pages).
When I got mine, it was $200 and comes uncut (i.e. you have to make the cutouts
for the blades of whatever prop you're using). It's exactly the same shape
as the fiberglass spinner that Vans includes in the kits. You use the spinner
bulkheads from Vans.
One comment...while the spinner comes "polished", it's not polished very well...it
looks decent from 10 ft away but you can still see grooves up close that should
have been worked smooth before polishing. That's a shame because I plan
to take sandpaper to it and undo the polishing to get out the grooves and then
work back up the a shiny finish. That said, for $200 it's not a bad deal (the
only other metal spinner on the market that I'm aware of for RV's is the Sensenich
one which comes unpolished and is over $400 if I recall correctly).
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D fuselage paint...polished Ordorff spinner still sitting on the shelf
where it's been for a couple years...
Subject: RV-List: RV List Spinner
From: smoothweasel(at)juno.com
Hey do any of you have or know where I can get a 13" Polished Alum.
Spinner for a O-320 with a Hartzell HCYL prop hub.
Phone numbers are ideal however if you send a web link I will try to find
somewhere that I can vew it.
Weasel Graber
-4 (38.5hr of super fun)
Brooksville MS
662 574 5210
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6/-7 Tip-up canopy side frame WD-725 |
Gus, RV-6 Dwg 22, the long drawing showing full length side view, also has a
"top view curve profile for upper fuselage longeron, full size". If you
will check at Station 55 3/4, which is where the fwd face of F-631A canopy
frame lies, and remember that the fwd end of the angle welded onto the aft
end of WD-725 side frame is 2 inches fwd of station 55 3/4, you can clearly
see that the longeron is, for all practical purposes, parallel to the
longitudinal axis of the RV-6. It is true that the fuselage "appears" - to
the naked eye - to be getting fatter for just a bit in front of Sta 55 34 -
but it is an optical illusion. Dwg 22 gives the facts, and that drawing
agrees with what I see, as described below.
I measured the angle of between the aft end of angle on frame and the welded
on side frame and it is 92 degrees, i.e., 2 degrees (2.2 to be precise) off
of perpendicular - this is causing the aft face of the aft angle to NOT be
flush with the F-631A rear frame, as reported in my original e-mail below.
With reference to your statement in your reply below that it "should be a
couple of degrees off 90 because as you go forward from the 631 the fuse is
getting wider", and your ref to RV-6 Dwgs 51 & 37, those drawings do look
that way (only about 1 degree) but neither is authoritative or accurate,
when compared to Dwg 22 cited above.
I suggest you take a machinist's square and a piece of 3 inch long aluminum
stock (1/8 or more thick) that is truly rectangular or square (has 90 degree
angles) that is 2 or 3 or more inches wide, go to an RV-6 with the tip-up
canopy raised out of the way, lay the stock on canopy deck with aft edge
against roll bar, with outbd edge near o'bd edge of longeron, and hold a
machinist square against the front face of stock and see if the other side
of the square doesn't look exactly parallel to the longeron. It does on my
plane.
If you agree that Dwg 22 is correct, and you verify as suggested in
preceding paragraph, I would again ask you to have the production jigs
corrected to make the side frame and its aft angle "perpendicular" at the
outside aft corner.
For the RV-list, RV-6 and RV-7 builders, have you noticed that the aft face
of "the angle at aft end of side frame" does not lay flush (parallel) to aft
canopy frame F-631A? I hope other builders will comment, so as either to
correct me, or to help Van's see that there is an opportunity to make life
easier for future builders.
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gus Funnell" <gusf(at)vansaircraft.com>
Subject: Re: RV-7 and -6 Tip-up's canopy side frame WD-725
> It seems odd that your 631 is perpendicular to the longeron, it
> should be a couple of degrees off 90 because as you go forward
> from the 631 the fuse is getting wider, and narrower as you go
> back. That is the reason the WD-725Bs are not welded at 90 deg.
> to the 725As outboard surface.
>
> I suspect either your fuselage is not getting wider forward of the
> 605 bulkhead or the 631 roll bar is slightly twisted so its face is
> perpendicular to the longeron. You can see on dwg 51 or 37 or
> some others what the fuse shape should be. You could fix the part
> as you describe to work with your fuse.
>
> Vans
>
> On 23 Jun 04, at 15:10, David Carter wrote:
>
> > Dear Van's,
> >
> > Both my WD-725s (L & R) had the angle welded on aft end at less than
> > 90 degrees to the side piece, which makes entire side frame stick
> > outbd of longeron/side of fuselage IF you hold the angle flush to the
> > F-631. I put right side on first and made a wedge shim to fill gap of
> > rivet in top outbd corner of the aft angle. Now I'm working on pilot
> > side frame, noticed the same anomally, and took more time to examine
> > it - put my shop square up to aft side of frame and can see that aft
> > angle has about 1/8" gap from other arm of square at outbd side. .. .
> > . . - I put the square on my F-631 and it is perpendicular to
> > longeron, as I believe the canopy side frame's angle should be. .. . .
> > . - These parts came in my April 2004 Finish Kit and so the WD-725
> > nomenclature indicates this is a part common to the RV-7. .. . . . -
> > Will you please correct your production jigs to eliminate this small
> > error? This should be easy to correct, then all your thousands of
> > FUTURE RV-7 builders will not have this small problem to deal with.
> >
> > I'm going to use a 3" cutoff wheel, cut the fore-aft weld, bend the
> > weld of aft flange of angle-to-side to get 90 degrees, and then rivet
> > (in lieu of weld) the horizontal flange of angle back onto lower
> > flange of side piece.
> >
> > Your comments/feed back/response to this e-mail would be greatly
> > appreciated.
> >
> > Respectfully,
> >
> > David Carter
> > 409-722-7259
> > Bldr 60314
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Airplanes on the cheap |
Wally is the one who will be deciding who is in. I would encourage you
to email him with your info.
Ross
-----Original Message-----
What a great angle. I don't think most people realize that they can
build a fly a good airplane for less than what they paid for their SUV.
If $35,000 qualifies, I'm in.
Ross Mickey wrote:
The EAA Homebuilt Council wants to showcase at AirVenture recently built
experimentals that were built for $10,000, $20,000 and $30,000. If you
know of anyone who has built an airplane that fits one of these
categories who would like to be in the spotlight there and in a future
issue of Sport Aviation, have them contact Wally Anderson at
WALLYANDER(at)earthlink.net.
tion
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "sportpilot" <sportpilot(at)moneypit.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear Facing Sump I0-320BIA |
does this work on the RV 9A ?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vic Jacko" <vicwj(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Rear Facing Sump I0-320BIA
>
> List, I have a rear (aft) facing sump for a Lycoming I0-320 BIA in
perfect condition if anyone is interested. (cheap)
>
> Vic
>
> 505-622-8513
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Insurance Requirement Change |
There is a 4th option (my 1st choice): sit down, write that 'agent
designation' letter & go see another agent.
Maybe the agent is correct & you're just out of luck. Maybe he/she isn't
right & you have other options with other underwriters. All it will cost
you is your time to go elsewhere & ask.
In my opinion, we should do everything we can to drag a/c insurance
underwriters kicking & screaming back into the free market.
Anybody out there using AOPA's underwriter who has gone through this?
Charlie
RV9 wrote:
>
>Hello John,
>
>It looks to me like you have at least three choices
>besides selling the plane.
>
>1. Pay the extra $350 dollars/year for coverage.
>2. Take the yearly medical exam.
>3. Fly without insurance.
>
>They are listed in my personal order of preference.
>
>Steve Mottin
>RV-9A Fuselage
>N609RV (Reserved)
>Granbury, Texas
>
>Thursday, June 24, 2004, 2:52:31 PM, you wrote:
>
>
>J> I was just informed by Nation Air that under the Van Guard program, when
>J> writing on Phoenix Aviation Underwriters, that pilots 70 years of age or
>J> older are now required by the underwriter to have an ANNUAL MEDICAL
>J> examination... class 3 for private pilot...even though FAA only requires the
>J> exam every TWO years.
>
>J> The agent suggested that the annual exam isn't required under the EAA
>J> program for the same coverage, but having just checked for another pilot
>J> that the rate would be $350 more than Phoenix wants.
>
>J> Any suggestions short of selling the plane?
>
>J> John at Salida, CO
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:Insurance Requirement Change |
I am insured with AVEMCO for liability only and they haven't said anything
like that. I'm 72. I just renewed my policy.
I tried the EAA plan and they wouldn't insure me at all because I fly from an
1100' grass strip,with our RV-4. That didn't sound like a good system for
sport flyers who want to fly to home strips. My neighbor has their policy and
it would cost a bunch more to have grass strip coverage for his RV-6A.
Most of the fun little fly-ins around here are on grass strips,so the EAA
plan can go jump, as far as I'm concerned.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Bertsch <noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Upper Gear Leg Fairing |
Thanks for the suggestion Pat. That sounds similar to what I was thinking.
It is a little hard to visualize so if you have any pictures of the design that
would be great too.
Jeff Bertsch
Houston RV-4
RV4PatA(at)aol.com wrote:
In a message dated 6/23/04 9:41:17 PM Central Daylight Time,
noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com writes:
The upper gear leg fairing on our RV-4 keeps cracking and pulling loose from
its attach point.
You can rivet an aluminum angle to both sides of the inside of the fairing
and tie a loop of safety wire between them. Then put an Adel clamp around the
motor mount and run a spring down to the wire loop from the bolt in the clamp.
this has worked well on my -4.
Pat Allender
Iowa City
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Insurance Requirement Change |
Charlie, the annual medical requirement in lieu of charging more money is GREAT!.
And it gives people an option. You see, if it were your money you were talking
about, you would be looking for some way to lessen your risk when an insured
turned XX (some age at which point you started to worry about the million
$'s of liability and perhaps the $60K or so worth of hull coverage). Let's see
what your options would be as an insurer...
1. Cancel his coverage because he turned XX. Ooops, nope, can't do that because
it is illegal in most states.
2. Increase the premium for that individual by surcharging it due to his age.
(why the heck aren't you all up in arms about that?). Max allowed by most states
is 20% per year unless the insurance company notifies you 60 days prior to
the renewal date. Some companies surcharge for age AND require the annual medical
(get up in arms about that.)
3. Tighten up the requirements... (i.e. require an annual medical so that you
know he is a better risk).
Those are your only options. And as for a free market, it is a free market, but
signing a Broker of Record letter merely assigns the existing quotes to a new
agent as is. There are only 8 companies out there which write aviation insurance.
And fewer still which will do homebuilts. Most good agencies work with
all the companies. Your implication that he's getting poor advice is frankly
ludicruous. My office insures over 1000 RVs. And you think I don't know what
all the markets are doing on older pilots?
And by the way, most companies won't take a 74 year old on as new business. (and
before you all get up in arms, yes it's legal for them to use age as a discriminator
when it is new business.) So, signing a broker of record letter won't
help. He could try calling AVEMCO, the direct writer.
With regard to your comment about dragging insurance companies kicking and screaming,
I think you should be happy that there are insurance companies willing
to take on aviation risks, especially homebuilts. It is already a very small
marketplace and making an insurance company do something it doesn't want to would
likely make them do something drastic like ceasing writing homebuilt coverages
at all. We certainly don't need fewer market.
JT
----- Original Message -----
From: Charlie England
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, June 24, 2004 7:09 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Insurance Requirement Change
There is a 4th option (my 1st choice): sit down, write that 'agent
designation' letter & go see another agent.
Maybe the agent is correct & you're just out of luck. Maybe he/she isn't
right & you have other options with other underwriters. All it will cost
you is your time to go elsewhere & ask.
In my opinion, we should do everything we can to drag a/c insurance
underwriters kicking & screaming back into the free market.
Anybody out there using AOPA's underwriter who has gone through this?
Charlie
RV9 wrote:
>
>Hello John,
>
>It looks to me like you have at least three choices
>besides selling the plane.
>
>1. Pay the extra $350 dollars/year for coverage.
>2. Take the yearly medical exam.
>3. Fly without insurance.
>
>They are listed in my personal order of preference.
>
>Steve Mottin
>RV-9A Fuselage
>N609RV (Reserved)
>Granbury, Texas
>
>Thursday, June 24, 2004, 2:52:31 PM, you wrote:
>
>
>J> I was just informed by Nation Air that under the Van Guard program, when
>J> writing on Phoenix Aviation Underwriters, that pilots 70 years of age or
>J> older are now required by the underwriter to have an ANNUAL MEDICAL
>J> examination... class 3 for private pilot...even though FAA only requires
the
>J> exam every TWO years.
>
>J> The agent suggested that the annual exam isn't required under the EAA
>J> program for the same coverage, but having just checked for another pilot
>J> that the rate would be $350 more than Phoenix wants.
>
>J> Any suggestions short of selling the plane?
>
>J> John at Salida, CO
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net> |
| Subject: | Re:Insurance Requirement Change |
Are you aware that AVEMCO provides less coverage than any other with respect to
their liability coverage?
All companies (except AVEMCO) write their liability coverage as (for example) $1
Million per occurrence with $100,000 sublimit per passenger. AVEMCO limits
that $100,000 to each person. That is right, they limit anyone who may get hurt
whether they're inside or outside the plane. You can say no to your 30 year
old doctor when he asks you for a ride, but if you crash land on a road and
hit his Lexus and kill him, and his wife sues you for $1,000,000 AVEMCO would
only pay out $100,000 for his death. Any other company out there would pay the
whole million.
AND AVEMCO further sublimits that $100,000 to $25,000 if the person injured is
a family member of yours (the owner).
They make their coverages sound the same as what other companies offer, but they
aren't. And they try and hide things in their policy (like family sublimits.)
That is why having an agent who can go to all the available markets and advise
you on them is best.
JT
----- Original Message -----
From: Oldsfolks(at)aol.com
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, June 24, 2004 8:43 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re:Insurance Requirement Change
I am insured with AVEMCO for liability only and they haven't said anything
like that. I'm 72. I just renewed my policy.
I tried the EAA plan and they wouldn't insure me at all because I fly from an
1100' grass strip,with our RV-4. That didn't sound like a good system for
sport flyers who want to fly to home strips. My neighbor has their policy and
it would cost a bunch more to have grass strip coverage for his RV-6A.
Most of the fun little fly-ins around here are on grass strips,so the EAA
plan can go jump, as far as I'm concerned.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ollie Washburn" <ollie-6a(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Insurance Requirement Change |
And what happens when and IF the sport pilot rules are passed with no
medical ?
Ollie
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Insurance Requirement Change
>
> Charlie, the annual medical requirement in lieu of charging more money is
GREAT!. And it gives people an option. You see, if it were your money you
were talking about, you would be looking for some way to lessen your risk
when an insured turned XX (some age at which point you started to worry
about the million $'s of liability and perhaps the $60K or so worth of hull
coverage). Let's see what your options would be as an insurer...
>
> 1. Cancel his coverage because he turned XX. Ooops, nope, can't do that
because it is illegal in most states.
>
> 2. Increase the premium for that individual by surcharging it due to his
age. (why the heck aren't you all up in arms about that?). Max allowed by
most states is 20% per year unless the insurance company notifies you 60
days prior to the renewal date. Some companies surcharge for age AND
require the annual medical (get up in arms about that.)
>
> 3. Tighten up the requirements... (i.e. require an annual medical so that
you know he is a better risk).
>
> Those are your only options. And as for a free market, it is a free
market, but signing a Broker of Record letter merely assigns the existing
quotes to a new agent as is. There are only 8 companies out there which
write aviation insurance. And fewer still which will do homebuilts. Most
good agencies work with all the companies. Your implication that he's
getting poor advice is frankly ludicruous. My office insures over 1000 RVs.
And you think I don't know what all the markets are doing on older pilots?
>
> And by the way, most companies won't take a 74 year old on as new
business. (and before you all get up in arms, yes it's legal for them to
use age as a discriminator when it is new business.) So, signing a broker
of record letter won't help. He could try calling AVEMCO, the direct
writer.
>
> With regard to your comment about dragging insurance companies kicking and
screaming, I think you should be happy that there are insurance companies
willing to take on aviation risks, especially homebuilts. It is already a
very small marketplace and making an insurance company do something it
doesn't want to would likely make them do something drastic like ceasing
writing homebuilt coverages at all. We certainly don't need fewer market.
>
> JT
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Charlie England
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Thursday, June 24, 2004 7:09 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Insurance Requirement Change
>
>
> There is a 4th option (my 1st choice): sit down, write that 'agent
> designation' letter & go see another agent.
>
> Maybe the agent is correct & you're just out of luck. Maybe he/she isn't
> right & you have other options with other underwriters. All it will cost
> you is your time to go elsewhere & ask.
>
> In my opinion, we should do everything we can to drag a/c insurance
> underwriters kicking & screaming back into the free market.
>
> Anybody out there using AOPA's underwriter who has gone through this?
>
> Charlie
>
>
> RV9 wrote:
>
> >
> >Hello John,
> >
> >It looks to me like you have at least three choices
> >besides selling the plane.
> >
> >1. Pay the extra $350 dollars/year for coverage.
> >2. Take the yearly medical exam.
> >3. Fly without insurance.
> >
> >They are listed in my personal order of preference.
> >
> >Steve Mottin
> >RV-9A Fuselage
> >N609RV (Reserved)
> >Granbury, Texas
> >
> >Thursday, June 24, 2004, 2:52:31 PM, you wrote:
> >
> >
> >J> I was just informed by Nation Air that under the Van Guard program,
when
> >J> writing on Phoenix Aviation Underwriters, that pilots 70 years of
age or
> >J> older are now required by the underwriter to have an ANNUAL MEDICAL
> >J> examination... class 3 for private pilot...even though FAA only
requires the
> >J> exam every TWO years.
> >
> >J> The agent suggested that the annual exam isn't required under the
EAA
> >J> program for the same coverage, but having just checked for another
pilot
> >J> that the rate would be $350 more than Phoenix wants.
> >
> >J> Any suggestions short of selling the plane?
> >
> >J> John at Salida, CO
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Dynon Inatallation in Memphis area? |
rv-8(at)yahoogroups.com, RV10(at)yahoogroups.com
I just got an email from my YAK-52 buddy who knows a guy with a CJ-6A who is
looking to install a Dynon and was looking for anyone with one already
flying in the Memphis area...
If you can help let me know and I will get you in contact!
Thanks!
-Bill
PS... I got a ride in a CJ a couple weeks ago! YAAA HAAAA!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Insurance Requirement Change |
Then you can get insurance thru the EAA's program and be stuck with a company that
will surcharge you due to your age. That company (Global Aerospace) surcharges
a little bit over their normal rates for each year past age 60.
I don't quite get why some of you are less upset by those companies which just
want to charge you more money than you are by the annual medical which Phoenix
has chosen to do for those pilots over 70 years old. That doesn't seem to fit
with the frugality of many RV'ers I've known.
I wouldn't bet the farm on the Sport Pilots License. While the EAA Program and
other companies have been "sport pilot ready" for quite some time, you must realize
that like any other group of insureds, if the loss ratio's are higher for
those with merely a Sport Pilot license, then the premiums for that group will
go up. Or, they'll stop insuring those with Sport Pilots Licenses altogether.
Please realize that these insurance companies make decisions based numbers which
are very easy for them to calculate. The fact that they are "sport pilot ready"
doesn't mean that they will ignore business decisions.
JT
----- Original Message -----
From: Ollie Washburn
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, June 25, 2004 8:38 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Insurance Requirement Change
And what happens when and IF the sport pilot rules are passed with no
medical ?
Ollie
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net>
To:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Insurance Requirement Change
>
> Charlie, the annual medical requirement in lieu of charging more money is
GREAT!. And it gives people an option. You see, if it were your money you
were talking about, you would be looking for some way to lessen your risk
when an insured turned XX (some age at which point you started to worry
about the million $'s of liability and perhaps the $60K or so worth of hull
coverage). Let's see what your options would be as an insurer...
>
> 1. Cancel his coverage because he turned XX. Ooops, nope, can't do that
because it is illegal in most states.
>
> 2. Increase the premium for that individual by surcharging it due to his
age. (why the heck aren't you all up in arms about that?). Max allowed by
most states is 20% per year unless the insurance company notifies you 60
days prior to the renewal date. Some companies surcharge for age AND
require the annual medical (get up in arms about that.)
>
> 3. Tighten up the requirements... (i.e. require an annual medical so that
you know he is a better risk).
>
> Those are your only options. And as for a free market, it is a free
market, but signing a Broker of Record letter merely assigns the existing
quotes to a new agent as is. There are only 8 companies out there which
write aviation insurance. And fewer still which will do homebuilts. Most
good agencies work with all the companies. Your implication that he's
getting poor advice is frankly ludicruous. My office insures over 1000 RVs.
And you think I don't know what all the markets are doing on older pilots?
>
> And by the way, most companies won't take a 74 year old on as new
business. (and before you all get up in arms, yes it's legal for them to
use age as a discriminator when it is new business.) So, signing a broker
of record letter won't help. He could try calling AVEMCO, the direct
writer.
>
> With regard to your comment about dragging insurance companies kicking and
screaming, I think you should be happy that there are insurance companies
willing to take on aviation risks, especially homebuilts. It is already a
very small marketplace and making an insurance company do something it
doesn't want to would likely make them do something drastic like ceasing
writing homebuilt coverages at all. We certainly don't need fewer market.
>
> JT
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Charlie England
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Thursday, June 24, 2004 7:09 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Insurance Requirement Change
>
>
>
> There is a 4th option (my 1st choice): sit down, write that 'agent
> designation' letter & go see another agent.
>
> Maybe the agent is correct & you're just out of luck. Maybe he/she isn't
> right & you have other options with other underwriters. All it will cost
> you is your time to go elsewhere & ask.
>
> In my opinion, we should do everything we can to drag a/c insurance
> underwriters kicking & screaming back into the free market.
>
> Anybody out there using AOPA's underwriter who has gone through this?
>
> Charlie
>
>
> RV9 wrote:
>
> >
> >Hello John,
> >
> >It looks to me like you have at least three choices
> >besides selling the plane.
> >
> >1. Pay the extra $350 dollars/year for coverage.
> >2. Take the yearly medical exam.
> >3. Fly without insurance.
> >
> >They are listed in my personal order of preference.
> >
> >Steve Mottin
> >RV-9A Fuselage
> >N609RV (Reserved)
> >Granbury, Texas
> >
> >Thursday, June 24, 2004, 2:52:31 PM, you wrote:
> >
> >
> >J> I was just informed by Nation Air that under the Van Guard program,
when
> >J> writing on Phoenix Aviation Underwriters, that pilots 70 years of
age or
> >J> older are now required by the underwriter to have an ANNUAL MEDICAL
> >J> examination... class 3 for private pilot...even though FAA only
requires the
> >J> exam every TWO years.
> >
> >J> The agent suggested that the annual exam isn't required under the
EAA
> >J> program for the same coverage, but having just checked for another
pilot
> >J> that the rate would be $350 more than Phoenix wants.
> >
> >J> Any suggestions short of selling the plane?
> >
> >J> John at Salida, CO
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Huft" <rv8tor(at)lazy8.net> |
Where can I buy Canadian sectionals?
TIA John Huft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: canadian charts |
Sporty's has them...
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Huft" <rv8tor(at)lazy8.net>
Subject: RV-List: canadian charts
>
> Where can I buy Canadian sectionals?
>
> TIA John Huft
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Huft" <rv8tor(at)lazy8.net> |
| Subject: | Re: canadian charts |
Canadian VNC charts cost $16 CAD. Sporty's charges $16 US for them. Very
sporting of them.
Any other ideas anyone?
Thanks again, John
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: canadian charts
>
> Sporty's has them...
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Huft" <rv8tor(at)lazy8.net>
> To: "Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com"
> Subject: RV-List: canadian charts
>
>
> >
> > Where can I buy Canadian sectionals?
> >
> > TIA John Huft
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Prior" <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: canadian charts |
On 7:24 25/06/2004 "John Huft" wrote:
> Where can I buy Canadian sectionals?
Here's a list of sources from the Nav Canada (publisher of the maps) website:
<http://www.navcanada.ca/NavCanada.asp?Language=EN&Content=ContentDefinitionFiles%5CPublications%5CAeronauticalInfoProducts%5CDistributors%5Cdefault.xml>
If that link is broken due to it's length, go to www.navcanada.ca, choose
"Aeronautical Information Products" from the left column, then "Purchase
Information", then "List of Distributors".
Sporty's is listed, as well as Aero Training Products, which is a Canadian
company that can deliver to the US as well.
Check what the current edition is and when the next scheduled publication
will be (a few are due out this month, a couple others in August) at this
page:
<http://www.navcanada.ca/NavCanada.asp?Language=EN&Content=ContentDefinitionFiles%5CPublications%5CAeronauticalInfoProducts%5CCharts%5CAeroCharts%5CListOfVFR.xml>
(Aeronautical Information Products -> Aeronautical Charts -> List of Charts)
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <are_barstad(at)norlogic.com> |
You can get Canadian sectionals at www.aviationworld.ca
Are
RV-8 Wings
www.ontariorvators.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Huft
Subject: RV-List: canadian charts
Where can I buy Canadian sectionals?
TIA John Huft
---
Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
| Subject: | Insurance Requirements |
I have decided to accept the annual medical required by Phoenix Aviation
Underwriters for several reasons:
1. Being upset doesn't change anything.
2. The annual might just be in my best interests from a health standpoint.
3. Avemco should be viewed in light of their handling of the infamous
Davenport case where payment was refused when a fuel system change was
made, then re-changed again to original configuration and then an
off-airport landing occured where some property damage was done. Avemco held
that there should have been a new airworthiness inspection upon the first
change, and another one when the system was restored to its original
configuration; since that wasn't done they said the coverage was void. If
you have Avemco I wonder just what, if any, coverage you really have. Look
up the case if your interested. I dropped Avemco after that one !!
Since then it is my understanding they have changed their attitude on this
sort of thing, but you wonder ?
4. Illegitimus non carborundum !
John at Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Aeroquip hose ID |
Hi,
I'm looking at the flop tube supplied by Van's, which
is basically a bit of aeroquip hose with a brass
pickup at the end. My question is about the inside
diameter of the aeroquip hose.
Normally an AN8XX fitting of size -6 should have an ID
of 6/16" or 3/8", right? For some reason, the aeroquip
hose on the flop tube is less than 1/4". This seems
like it could be quite a problem by restricting fuel
flow.
I called Van's and they said that no one has had a
problem with this, but I really want to find out if
this is normal.
I have some pictures here, if it helps clarify things.
http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story 040625174334102
Thanks,
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: canadian charts |
At 12:03 25/6/2004, John Huft wrote:
>
>Canadian VNC charts cost $16 CAD. Sporty's charges $16 US for them. Very
>sporting of them.
>
>Any other ideas anyone?
>
>Thanks again, John
It looks like you can purchase them direct from Nav Canada, or try the
official list of distributors:
Nav Canada:
1-866-731-PUBS (7827) or
email at aeropubs(at)navcanada.ca
List of distributors:
<http://www.navcanada.ca/NavCanada.asp?Language=EN&Content=ContentDefinitionFiles%5CPublications%5CAeronauticalInfoProducts%5CDistributors%5Cdefault.xml>
That URL might be chopped into two lines by the e-mail system.
Kevin Horton
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Insurance Requirement Change |
Has anyone asked what evidence the insurance companies have that older
pilots cause more claims, thereby justifying the higher premiums?
I've never seen a study on that and would sure like to see one.
FYI: my mother-in-law's car insurance premium went down with age. What's so
different about aviation insurance?
And by the way, what hard evidence is there that performing more medicals
reduces the claim rate? If this were truly the case, don't you think auto
insurers would offer a lower rate to those people willing to undergo more
frequent medicals?
This whole thing stinks to high heaven.
Regards,
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Huft" <rv8tor(at)lazy8.net> |
| Subject: | Re: canadian charts |
Thanks everyone!
John
----- Original Message -----
From: "Are Barstad" <are_barstad(at)norlogic.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: canadian charts
>
> You can get Canadian sectionals at www.aviationworld.ca
>
> Are
> RV-8 Wings
> www.ontariorvators.org
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Huft
> To: Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com
> Subject: RV-List: canadian charts
>
>
> Where can I buy Canadian sectionals?
>
> TIA John Huft
>
>
> ---
> Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
>
> ---
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aeroquip hose ID |
Unless you are running a fuel injected engine with 30-40 GPH flow the
difference is totally irrelevant. Even in your case where you are
running fuel injection (I think you are), the short length of 1/4" line
will have a small effect on total restriction - on the order of a few
inches of water restriction (0.1 psi drop or so).
If the rest of your feed line is 3/8 and you don't have too many bends
and fittings, then the 1/4" section of line can be ignored.
All that said, anytime you can reduce a restriction (within reason - no
1" lines :-) ) you are better off.
Dick Tasker
Mickey Coggins wrote:
>
>Hi,
>
>I'm looking at the flop tube supplied by Van's, which
>is basically a bit of aeroquip hose with a brass
>pickup at the end. My question is about the inside
>diameter of the aeroquip hose.
>
>Normally an AN8XX fitting of size -6 should have an ID
>of 6/16" or 3/8", right? For some reason, the aeroquip
>hose on the flop tube is less than 1/4". This seems
>like it could be quite a problem by restricting fuel
>flow.
>
>I called Van's and they said that no one has had a
>problem with this, but I really want to find out if
>this is normal.
>
>I have some pictures here, if it helps clarify things.
>
> http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story 040625174334102
>
>Thanks,
>Mickey
>
>
>--
>Mickey Coggins
>http://www.rv8.ch/
>#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: canadian charts |
| From: | Patty and Dan krueger <pndkrueg(at)mchsi.com> |
Air Ways @ http://www.flyairways.com/
Has Canadian charts for $13.20 plus postage which runs about $3+
Dan Krueger
RV6A Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Hansen" <jerry-hansen(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | New autopilot model |
Trio Avionics has just announced the EZ Pilot II autopilot, which
incorporates new, often requested features. If you've have an interest,
stop by and see us at the Arlington (WA) fly-in July 7-11. Effective today
we are offering an "Arlington" $100 discount on both models, through July
11th. http://www.trioavionics.com
Jerry Hansen (affiliated with the company)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowling mounting without prop |
Hi Marty:
The measurement on my 6A from the face of the starting ring at the crank
flange to the back of the backing plate is 2 and 1/32 inches. The backing
plate has a doubter on the back and this measurement is from the face of the
ring gear to the doubter. The backing plate for the spinner is mounted to
the prop with a washer and a 1/4 inch spacer between it and the prop. Some
may leave this washer out so that would add the width of the washer to my
measurement.
Hope this is what you are looking for.
Eustace
----- Original Message -----
From: "Emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Cowling mounting without prop
>
> Listers:
> I have some instructions for mounting my cowling without having a prop in
> hand. I would like to set up my RV-6 for a C/S Hartzell and wanted to know
> from someone that has mounted the cowling in this fashion, what the
correct
> spacing is from the crankshaft starting ring to the back of the spinner.
I
> believe it is 2.25". Anyone have some advice on this?
> Marty in Brentwood TN
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
OK Folks,
There's a new article in "Kitbuilt Airplanes" about "Affordable Turbine power"
and there Solar turbine engine. Again they boast that they are getting 16
gph at 250 hp and 13 gph at 200 hp using an automotive type fuel injection system.
Now the last time we talked about this it was said that the best they could
possibly get would be about 1.1 to 1.2 pounds of fuel per hp with a single
stage compressor. That's over 20 gph! So what's going on? Could they possibly
be getting that kind of fuel burn? It sure would be COOL to be running a
turbine. Any comments from you engineers out there?
Wayne
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: canadian charts |
Canadian VNCs now cost $21CDN, directly from the government map supply
outlet. I just bought 5 of them here in Winnipeg. That's just under $16 USD.
Production and sale of aviation charts is now the responsibility of Nav
Canada, the arms-length non-profit company that was spun off from the
government a few years ago. Unfortunately they also have no competition, and
the air travel slowdown after 9/11 really hit their revenues hard. So
without the government subsidization that would have helped them through the
lean years, they have been jacking up prices for all their services in order
to balance their books.
If there is an upside to ethe privatization of aviation services, I haven't
seen it yet. The service they provide is generally good, but then it always
has been IMHO.
Curt
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Huft" <rv8tor(at)lazy8.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: canadian charts
>
> Canadian VNC charts cost $16 CAD. Sporty's charges $16 US for them. Very
> sporting of them.
>
> Any other ideas anyone?
>
> Thanks again, John
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: canadian charts
>
>
> >
> > Sporty's has them...
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "John Huft" <rv8tor(at)lazy8.net>
> > To: "Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com"
> > Subject: RV-List: canadian charts
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Where can I buy Canadian sectionals?
> > >
> > > TIA John Huft
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | The Annual Inspection - Powerplant; a new video |
I don't normally spam on this list, but I've been working on this video for
about a year, its my first one, and I'm kinda proud of it. So here goes:
THE ANNUAL INSPECTION - POWERPLANT 55 minutes
Follow Westwood College of Aviation A&P instructors Tim Guerrera and
Vaughn Dowell through a step by step demonstration of an annual inspection
of the powerplant section of a Lycoming 0-360. This video explains every
step of the process from an initial AD search to the final log entries.
Each procedure is detailed including compression check, ignition timing,
spark plug service, exhaust pressure check, oil change, fuel system,
propeller, electrical system, etc..... , showing the proper techniques
along with plenty of professional hints and tips. A final segment details
safety wiring techniques as used throughout the powerplant section.
Most of this video was filmed at Westwood College in Denver using a
Piper Archer, however a few segments were done locally in Granby, CO with my
RV-6A and hangarmate Dave Cook's RV-6.
available now in DVD and VHS
from Builder's Bookstore
http://www.buildersbooks.com/annual_inspection_powerplant.htm
800 780-4115
...and to sweeten up the spam, mention "Matronics" when you order and get
25% off through the end of June.
Thanks,
Andy
RV-6A N-5060 flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
June 15, 2004 - June 25, 2004
RV-Archive.digest.vol-pk