RV-Archive.digest.vol-pl

June 25, 2004 - July 06, 2004



Subject: Re: Aeroquip hose ID
In a message dated 6/25/2004 10:00:46 AM Pacific Daylight Time, mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch writes: I'm looking at the flop tube supplied by Van's, which is basically a bit of aeroquip hose with a brass pickup at the end. My question is about the inside diameter of the aeroquip hose. Normally an AN8XX fitting of size -6 should have an ID of 6/16" or 3/8", right? For some reason, the aeroquip hose on the flop tube is less than 1/4". This seems like it could be quite a problem by restricting fuel flow. I called Van's and they said that no one has had a problem with this, but I really want to find out if this is normal. ========================================== Fittings aside, 3/8" aluminum hard fuel line is measured by OD with a .035" wall and flex line is measured by ID. The resulting .305" ID of hard line will drop a small amount of pressure over the length from tank to pump in our low flow (<20 gph) application. IMO, the pressure drop added by an 18" run of 1/4" ID flex line would be slight in terms of the overall system drop. You can test the effect yourself empirically by setting up a small siphon test of your own. GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 703 hrs) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 25, 2004
From: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Re: turbine power
At 17:55 2004-06-25, you wrote: > >OK Folks, > > There's a new article in "Kitbuilt Airplanes" about "Affordable > Turbine power" and there Solar turbine engine. Again they boast that > they are getting 16 gph at 250 hp and 13 gph at 200 hp using an > automotive type fuel injection system. Now the last time we talked about > this it was said that the best they could possibly get would be about 1.1 > to 1.2 pounds of fuel per hp with a single stage compressor. That's over > 20 gph! So what's going on? Could they possibly be getting that kind of > fuel burn? It sure would be COOL to be running a turbine. Any comments > from you engineers out there? > >Wayne Engineer comment: ..show me.. Mike McGee, PE Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR 13B in gestation mode, RD-1C, EC-2 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Weiler" <dweiler(at)nomadwi.com>
Subject: Cabin heat slide valve
Date: Jun 25, 2004
Fellow Listers: One of our enterprising MN Wing members is now manufacturing a really neat and clean cabin heat valve. It is a flush mounted slide valve that adapts well to the side-by-side RVs. Thought you might be interested. Here's his website: http://www.pressenter.com/~dougweil/Slidevalve/ Thanks Doug Weiler pres, MN Wing RV-4, almost finished painting at Razor's Edge ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 25, 2004
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: turbine power
Wayne R. Couture wrote: > >OK Folks, > > There's a new article in "Kitbuilt Airplanes" about "Affordable Turbine power" and there Solar turbine engine. Again they boast that they are getting 16 gph at 250 hp and 13 gph at 200 hp using an automotive type fuel injection system. Now the last time we talked about this it was said that the best they could possibly get would be about 1.1 to 1.2 pounds of fuel per hp with a single stage compressor. That's over 20 gph! So what's going on? Could they possibly be getting that kind of fuel burn? It sure would be COOL to be running a turbine. Any comments from you engineers out there? > >Wayne > At SNF this spring I asked the ATP guy what speed & fuel burn they are now getting in their RV-4 now that they have fixed the exhaust angle. He said that they were burning 14gph at 140 mph. I believe that the hp required to fly a -4 at 140 mph is well under 100. It would be cool, but... Charlie ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "GMC" <gmcnutt(at)uniserve.com>
Subject: canadian charts
Date: Jun 25, 2004
Hi Kurt Best prices I could find on Canadian maps, and I just spent over $150 (ouch)! Don't pay full list price ($21 ?) to Nav-Canada when Calgary Pilot Supply has VNC & WAC charts at $14.89 Cdn. Walk in price is higher and best price is internet order http://www.cyberpilotshop.com/. If you feel uneasy about giving credit card number on internet, order on internet and then phone in your credit card number. Note Calgary Pilot Supply has higher price on some items such as Canada Flight Supplement than some others. George in Langley -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Curt Reimer Subject: Re: RV-List: canadian charts Canadian VNCs now cost $21CDN, directly from the government map supply outlet. I just bought 5 of them here in Winnipeg. That's just under $16 USD. Production and sale of aviation charts is now the responsibility of Nav Canada, the arms-length non-profit company that was spun off from the government a few years ago. Unfortunately they also have no competition, and the air travel slowdown after 9/11 really hit their revenues hard. So without the government subsidization that would have helped them through the lean years, they have been jacking up prices for all their services in order to balance their books. If there is an upside to ethe privatization of aviation services, I haven't seen it yet. The service they provide is generally good, but then it always has been IMHO. Curt ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Huft" <rv8tor(at)lazy8.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: canadian charts > > Canadian VNC charts cost $16 CAD. Sporty's charges $16 US for them. Very > sporting of them. > > Any other ideas anyone? > > Thanks again, John > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> > To: > Subject: Re: RV-List: canadian charts > > > > > > Sporty's has them... > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "John Huft" <rv8tor(at)lazy8.net> > > To: "Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com" > > Subject: RV-List: canadian charts > > > > > > > > > > Where can I buy Canadian sectionals? > > > > > > TIA John Huft > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DejaVu" <wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net>
Subject: Re: need 12" N-numbers for flight into Canada?
Date: Jun 26, 2004
Unless the regs have changed, no problems when I last flew into Toronto in 2000 with 3" numbers on the fin. The FBO at Buffalo Muni gave me an 800 number to call Toronto. I got a very hospitable lady at the other end, as I find in most Canadians. She just asked who you are, who your daddy is.... and gave a confirmation number in case anyone gives you trouble. I didn't find it to be a big deal. Now US Customs was a different story but I won't go into that. Make sure you have proper papers to re-enter the country. Ahn, RV-6, Maryland ----- Original Message ----- From: "GMC" <gmcnutt(at)uniserve.com> Subject: RE: RV-List: need 12" N-numbers for flight into Canada? > > Subject: RV-List: need 12" N-numbers for flight into Canada? > > > Hi Dan > > The short answer is "NO". > > The long answer is that the bureaucrats have screwed up our regulations so > badly that nobody really knows exactly what is required for this simple item > anymore. > > George in Langley > (6 inch numbering) > > > ------------------- > > Do I really need 12" N-numbers for flight into Canada? The reason I ask is > because of something specified in the document: > > STANDARDISED VALIDATION OF A SPECIAL AIRWORTHINESS CERTIFICATE - > EXPERIMENTAL, FOR THE PURPOSE OF OPERATING A UNITED STATES - REGISTERED > AMATEUR-BUILT AIRCRAFT IN CANADIAN AIRSPACE > > (jeez, what a long title) That's a document that I'm required to have with > me, and it says: > > "3. the nationality and registration marks assigned to the aircraft by the > Federal Aviation Administration shall be displayed on the aircraft in > accordance with the requirements of the United States;" > > Well, the requirements of the US...that's 3" numbers. I'm not clear on > whether that means I can get by with 3" numbers or whether I'll need 12" > numbers...anybody know the real deal? > > Thanks in advance, > )_( Dan > RV-7 N714D > http://www.rvproject.com > > > --- > Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. > > --- > > > --- > > --- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: Aeroquip hose ID
Date: Jun 25, 2004
My IO-360 sucks up to 14gph+ through that little flop tube, both right side up and upside down....200+hrs and no troubles yet! Cheers, Stein Bruch RV6's, Minneapolis http://www.steinair.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Vanremog(at)aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Aeroquip hose ID In a message dated 6/25/2004 10:00:46 AM Pacific Daylight Time, mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch writes: I'm looking at the flop tube supplied by Van's, which is basically a bit of aeroquip hose with a brass pickup at the end. My question is about the inside diameter of the aeroquip hose. Normally an AN8XX fitting of size -6 should have an ID of 6/16" or 3/8", right? For some reason, the aeroquip hose on the flop tube is less than 1/4". This seems like it could be quite a problem by restricting fuel flow. I called Van's and they said that no one has had a problem with this, but I really want to find out if this is normal. ========================================== Fittings aside, 3/8" aluminum hard fuel line is measured by OD with a .035" wall and flex line is measured by ID. The resulting .305" ID of hard line will drop a small amount of pressure over the length from tank to pump in our low flow (<20 gph) application. IMO, the pressure drop added by an 18" run of 1/4" ID flex line would be slight in terms of the overall system drop. You can test the effect yourself empirically by setting up a small siphon test of your own. GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 703 hrs) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: canadian charts
Date: Jun 26, 2004
> Don't pay full list price ($21 ?) to Nav-Canada when Calgary Pilot Supply > has VNC & WAC charts at $14.89 Cdn. Walk in price is higher and best price > is internet order http://www.cyberpilotshop.com/. If you feel uneasy about > giving credit card number on internet, order on internet and then phone in > your credit card number. Note Calgary Pilot Supply has higher price on some > items such as Canada Flight Supplement than some others. Yes, I see the local retail price I paid was a rip off. Oh well, I needed them on short notice and couldn't wait for the mail. Lesson learned. thanks, Curt ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Cowling mounting without prop
Date: Jun 26, 2004
Thanks again Eustace. I am starting to understand this better, but I'm having trouble understanding why the 1/4" spacer and washer as shown on drawing C4, when mounted on the face of the backing plate will affect the distance from the starting ring crank flange to the back of the backing plate. Can you help me to understand? Marty in Brentwood TN From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: Cowling mounting without prop Hi Marty: The measurement on my 6A from the face of the starting ring at the crank flange to the back of the backing plate is 2 and 1/32 inches. The backing plate has a doubter on the back and this measurement is from the face of the ring gear to the doubter. The backing plate for the spinner is mounted to the prop with a washer and a 1/4 inch spacer between it and the prop. Some may leave this washer out so that would add the width of the washer to my measurement. Hope this is what you are looking for. Eustace ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 26, 2004
From: richard dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net>
Subject: Re: The Annual Inspection - Powerplant; a new video
Andy, Could you tell us the price of the new video/DVD? Thanks. RHDudley Aircraft Technical Book Company wrote: > >I don't normally spam on this list, but I've been working on this video for >about a year, its my first one, and I'm kinda proud of it. So here goes: > > >THE ANNUAL INSPECTION - POWERPLANT 55 minutes > Follow Westwood College of Aviation A&P instructors Tim Guerrera and >Vaughn Dowell through a step by step demonstration of an annual inspection >of the powerplant section of a Lycoming 0-360. This video explains every >step of the process from an initial AD search to the final log entries. >Each procedure is detailed including compression check, ignition timing, >spark plug service, exhaust pressure check, oil change, fuel system, >propeller, electrical system, etc..... , showing the proper techniques >along with plenty of professional hints and tips. A final segment details >safety wiring techniques as used throughout the powerplant section. > Most of this video was filmed at Westwood College in Denver using a >Piper Archer, however a few segments were done locally in Granby, CO with my >RV-6A and hangarmate Dave Cook's RV-6. > >available now in DVD and VHS >from Builder's Bookstore >http://www.buildersbooks.com/annual_inspection_powerplant.htm >800 780-4115 > >...and to sweeten up the spam, mention "Matronics" when you order and get >25% off through the end of June. > >Thanks, >Andy >RV-6A N-5060 flying > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org>
Subject: The Annual Inspection - Powerplant; a new video
Date: Jun 26, 2004
Follow the link. It lists a price of $34.95. Bruce www.glasair.org -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of richard dudley Subject: Re: RV-List: The Annual Inspection - Powerplant; a new video Andy, Could you tell us the price of the new video/DVD? Thanks. RHDudley Aircraft Technical Book Company wrote: > >I don't normally spam on this list, but I've been working on this video for >about a year, its my first one, and I'm kinda proud of it. So here goes: > > >THE ANNUAL INSPECTION - POWERPLANT 55 minutes > Follow Westwood College of Aviation A&P instructors Tim Guerrera and >Vaughn Dowell through a step by step demonstration of an annual inspection >of the powerplant section of a Lycoming 0-360. This video explains every >step of the process from an initial AD search to the final log entries. >Each procedure is detailed including compression check, ignition timing, >spark plug service, exhaust pressure check, oil change, fuel system, >propeller, electrical system, etc..... , showing the proper techniques >along with plenty of professional hints and tips. A final segment details >safety wiring techniques as used throughout the powerplant section. > Most of this video was filmed at Westwood College in Denver using a >Piper Archer, however a few segments were done locally in Granby, CO with my >RV-6A and hangarmate Dave Cook's RV-6. > >available now in DVD and VHS >from Builder's Bookstore >http://www.buildersbooks.com/annual_inspection_powerplant.htm >800 780-4115 > >...and to sweeten up the spam, mention "Matronics" when you order and get >25% off through the end of June. > >Thanks, >Andy >RV-6A N-5060 flying > > > > = = = = ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Brick" <jbrick(at)wolfenet.com>
Subject: Building Materials For Sale
Date: Jun 26, 2004
Contact Dana Burt in Tacoma, mailto:dburt(at)nventure.com 253-474-4467 He will give a good discount if you buy the whole package List of aluminum, clecos, and rivets Misc 1 36 solid round bar, 6061-T6 $14.00 Tube 4 1x2&1/2x9 .049 streamlined tube $158.00 4 1x2&1/2x19 .049 streamlined tube $20.00 5 2x12 .058 $427.00 5 1&7/8x 12 .058 $410.00 5 1x12 .058 $250.00 2 x12 .058 square tube $80.00 1 7/8x12 .058 $41.00 Angle 1 2x24x1/8 $64.80 1 1&1/4x24x1/8 $54.00 3 x24x1/8 $106.56 1 1x126&1/2x1/8 $13.00 1 1x96&1/4x1/8 $10.00 2 3/4x12x1/8 $34.00 Sheet 2 .025x12 6061 T6 $168.80 1 .050 x11 6061 T6 $125.00 1 .090x2x4 6061 T6 $31.50 Aluminum Total $2007.66 Clecos 50 #3s $12.50 100 #4s $25.00 50 #5s $12.50 Solid rivets 3-3, 3-4, 3-7 flush approx 1lb $25.00 4-10 on down 1lb+ $13.00 5-6 1lb 5-9 1lb $25.00 Cherry rivets 290 4-3 $110.00 100 4-2 $35.00 12 5-2 $5.40 Books (All in like new condition) Restoring and Flying a Sport Plane on a Budget. 1985 Signed. $3.00 Pazmanys Light Plane Construction and Light Airplane Design $5.00 Wanttajas Kitplane Construction $10.00 Elements Of Sport Airplane Design For The Homebuilder $5.00 Bingelis Firewall Forward $18.00 Bingelis on Engines $18.00 Bingelis Sport Plane Builder $18.00 Bingelis Sportplane Construction Techniques $18.00 Or, all four Bingelis for $50.00 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 26, 2004
From: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: screwing AN elbow into cleavland brake
I started hooking up the brake line to the brakes today and tried to screw the AN elbow fitting into the brake itself. After less than a full turn it abruptly becomes pretty hard to screw in (using fingers With a wrench I'm sure I can crank it a lot further). I generally don't like to push the fittings more than about 1 turn past that point, but obviously I want more than 2 full threads engaged. How many turns does a fitting like this need to get in order to be adequately engaged? -- Tom Sargent, RV-6A, Landing gear ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com>
Subject: screwing AN elbow into cleavland brake
Date: Jun 26, 2004
And how many licks does it take to get to the center of a Tootsi Pop? Sorry, I couldn't resist. I had a similar situation on the brakes on my KR-2. After putting a wrench to it I got about four more threads without excessively tightening it which is more than I expected after hand tightening. Sometimes pipe threads are just funny that way. Brian Kraut Engineering Alternatives, Inc. www.engalt.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of thomas a. sargent Subject: RV-List: screwing AN elbow into cleavland brake How many turns does a fitting like this need to get in order to be adequately engaged? -- Tom Sargent, RV-6A, Landing gear ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 26, 2004
From: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net>
Subject: Re: screwing AN elbow into cleavland brake
Below is the standard for pipe threads. If you can only get the fitting to go in one turn by hand, something is wrong. The brake lines see a good bit of pressure so you do want a reasonable number of threads engaged, although you really do not need as many as the specification which is specified for pressures up to 10,000 psi.. Have you tried a different AN fitting to see if there is something wrong with the fitting? Does this happen with both brakes? American Standard Taper Pipe Threads Nominal size Actual OD Threads per inch Length of engagement (tightened by hand) Hand tight turns Wrench makeup turns Length of effective thread 1 ?_8 0.405 27 0.180 4 2 0.260 0.540 18 0.200 4 3 0.401 3 ?_8 0.675 18 0.240 4 3 0.408 0.840 14 0.320 4 3 0.534 1.050 14 0.340 4 3 0.546 Dick Tasker thomas a. sargent wrote: > >I started hooking up the brake line to the brakes today and tried to >screw the AN elbow fitting into the brake itself. After less than a >full turn it abruptly becomes pretty hard to screw in (using fingers >With a wrench I'm sure I can crank it a lot further). I generally don't >like to push the fittings more than about 1 turn past that point, but >obviously I want more than 2 full threads engaged. How many turns does >a fitting like this need to get in order to be adequately engaged? > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Hyde" <nauga(at)brick.net>
Subject: Ignition problem
Date: Jun 26, 2004
I have what I think is an ignition problem that's got me baffled. My #3 cylinder has always run a little cold on the right mag only. I fixed what I thought was an intake leak 20 hours ago and that helped, or at least seemed like it, but today it became clear that #3 was not firing on the right mag. To make a very long story a little shorter, the problem travels with the ignition lead. If I switch top and bottom leads on #3, it still goes cold on the right mag, which tells me that it's not the plug. The harness checks fine on a lead tester, and when I finally broke down and pulled the mag I was able to 'spark out' all four leads against the mag case. I was expecting either the #3 lead would be bad or it wouldn't spark, but it looks like that's not the case. Anybody ever see anything like this? Anyone got any suggestions? The engine is an O-320D with Slick mags in an RV-4. The engine, airplane, and mags all have about 24 hours on them (STOH in the case of the engine). The mags, harness, and plugs are about 6 months old. Dave Hyde RV-4 in flight test, EAA tech counselor ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 26, 2004
Subject: RV-List Bird Rash
From: smoothweasel(at)juno.com
Hey guys, I intercepted the path of a innocent bystander (some kind of a bird) at aprox. 180kn. today. It only made a little click noise but looking to the left revealed a seen that I didn't wan't to see. I now have a really nice or maybe not so nice dent on the leading edge of the wing and it isn't where I would put a landing light. Have anyone of you had experience doing this kind of repair? Did you replace the whole skin or can I cut out the dent, flute the edge and then make a new piece to fit the cut out? The dent is contained between two ribs. Weasel Graber -4 (39hr.....was happy, now feelin bad) Brooksville MS 662 574 5210 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: screwing AN elbow into cleavland brake
Date: Jun 26, 2004
Sounds like you have it cross-threaded. Check the fitting and B-nut threads carefully. Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair Safety Programs Editor - TC EAA Sport Pilot ----- Original Message ----- From: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314(at)earthlink.net> Subject: RV-List: screwing AN elbow into cleavland brake > > I started hooking up the brake line to the brakes today and tried to > screw the AN elbow fitting into the brake itself. After less than a > full turn it abruptly becomes pretty hard to screw in (using fingers > With a wrench I'm sure I can crank it a lot further). I generally don't > like to push the fittings more than about 1 turn past that point, but > obviously I want more than 2 full threads engaged. How many turns does > a fitting like this need to get in order to be adequately engaged? > -- > Tom Sargent, RV-6A, Landing gear > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com>
Subject: RV-List Bird Rash
Date: Jun 26, 2004
The good news is that a bird strike is a once in a lifetime experience. You have now probably been saved from the chance of one going through your windshield sometime later in life. Brian Kraut Engineering Alternatives, Inc. www.engalt.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of smoothweasel(at)juno.com Subject: RV-List: RV-List Bird Rash Hey guys, I intercepted the path of a innocent bystander (some kind of a bird) at aprox. 180kn. today. It only made a little click noise but looking to the left revealed a seen that I didn't wan't to see. I now have a really nice or maybe not so nice dent on the leading edge of the wing and it isn't where I would put a landing light. Have anyone of you had experience doing this kind of repair? Did you replace the whole skin or can I cut out the dent, flute the edge and then make a new piece to fit the cut out? The dent is contained between two ribs. Weasel Graber -4 (39hr.....was happy, now feelin bad) Brooksville MS 662 574 5210 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: screwing AN elbow into cleavland brake
Date: Jun 26, 2004
You also may have damaged threads as it took a fitting and easily turned is about 4 turn by hand. The fitting then had no play. Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair Safety Programs Editor - TC EAA Sport Pilot ----- Original Message ----- From: "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> Subject: Re: RV-List: screwing AN elbow into cleavland brake > > Sounds like you have it cross-threaded. Check the fitting and B-nut threads > carefully. > > Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair > Safety Programs Editor - TC > EAA Sport Pilot > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314(at)earthlink.net> > To: > Subject: RV-List: screwing AN elbow into cleavland brake > > > > > > I started hooking up the brake line to the brakes today and tried to > > screw the AN elbow fitting into the brake itself. After less than a > > full turn it abruptly becomes pretty hard to screw in (using fingers > > With a wrench I'm sure I can crank it a lot further). I generally don't > > like to push the fittings more than about 1 turn past that point, but > > obviously I want more than 2 full threads engaged. How many turns does > > a fitting like this need to get in order to be adequately engaged? > > -- > > Tom Sargent, RV-6A, Landing gear > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MMcs139808(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 26, 2004
Subject: Re: screwing AN elbow into cleavland brake
Tom I found myself in a similar situation and after ensuring that the threads were not crossed I used a tap to increase the thread depth. This not the first time I have to do this, another occassion that comes to mind was on the fuel tank drains. Eugene ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jerry Howell <jehowell(at)tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: how tight - threaded fittings in fuel tank?
Date: Jun 26, 2004
Listers, Haven't found an answer to this one in the archives. I'm beginning to wrap up my first fuel tank. Since, ideally, it won't be opened again, I want to ensure that I don't leave anything to chance. So, how tight should the threaded fittings be for the vent line? Is there a standard torque? If so, how is it verified? Thanks!, Jerry RV-7A Left Wing, Fuel tank sealing..... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Walker" <ron(at)walker.net>
Subject: Re: how tight - threaded fittings in fuel tank?
Date: Jun 26, 2004
"Since, ideally, it won't be opened again" Sorry ... thats funny to me ;o) I've opened mine twice so far (tank cover plate) ... once was my doing, other was unforseen. My piece of wisdom is get some hex head screws for the fuel tank cover - once your wings are mounted, its a real pain to take those taking covers off with a short philips driver! The vent fitting will be just fine since its only venting fumes. Ron - first engine start today and cant wait for first flight!!!!! http://home.earthlink.net/~n706lg ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jerry Howell" <jehowell(at)tampabay.rr.com> Subject: RV-List: how tight - threaded fittings in fuel tank? > > Listers, > > Haven't found an answer to this one in the archives. I'm beginning to > wrap up my first fuel tank. Since, ideally, it won't be opened again, > I want to ensure that I don't leave anything to chance. So, how tight > should the threaded fittings be for the vent line? Is there a standard > torque? If so, how is it verified? > > Thanks!, > Jerry > RV-7A > Left Wing, Fuel tank sealing..... > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dick Jordan" <mkejrj(at)erols.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List Bird Rash
Date: Jun 27, 2004
Weasel, My finished wing fell from a storage stand resulting in a 3" dent on the leading edge. After an unsuccessful try to push the dent out from the inside using a wood die and a small jack I thought I might seek assistance from a pro in the automotive field. I found that most auto repair shops are not really into dent removal any more. They either replace the damaged panel in toto or rough out the dent and fill with Bondo. I hoped to avoid this approach. I did find a pro in a local Antique Auto restoration shop who was quite competent in metal fabrication and repair and on aluminum and steel. He removed my dent in 15 minutes with a body hammer and a dolly. You can not tell, even under close examination, that the leading edge was damaged. My repair was possible in that the location of the damage was accessible to the pro so he could hold the dolly on the inside while relieving the stress crease on the outside with light taps. In short see if you can find a pro in a reputable Antique auto shop. Good luck ! Dick Jordan RV8A Finishing N888BZ-Reserved ----- Original Message ----- From: <smoothweasel(at)juno.com> Subject: RV-List: RV-List Bird Rash > > Hey guys, I intercepted the path of a innocent bystander (some kind of > a bird) at aprox. 180kn. today. It only made a little click noise but > looking to the left revealed a seen that I didn't wan't to see. I now > have a really nice or maybe not so nice dent on the leading edge of the > wing and it isn't where I would put a landing light. > Have anyone of you had experience doing this kind of repair? Did > you replace the whole skin or can I cut out the dent, flute the edge and > then make a new piece to fit the cut out? > > The dent is contained between two ribs. > > Weasel Graber > -4 (39hr.....was happy, now feelin bad) > Brooksville MS > 662 574 5210 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 26, 2004
From: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: screwing AN elbow into cleavland brake
The threads are fine in both the brakes and the AN fitting. It's just clear that to get it to go further it's going to take some force and I don't want to push it any further than I have to. So, my question is, is there a specification for a minimum number of threads that should be engaged in these AN fittings? cgalley wrote: > > You also may have damaged threads as it took a fitting and easily turned is > about 4 turn by hand. The fitting then had no play. > -- Tom Sargent, RV-6A, Landing gear ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: screwing AN elbow into cleavland brake
Date: Jun 26, 2004
I'm sorry. I missed the fact that you were screwing the pipe thread end into a casting. As someone else pointed out, you may have to tap a little deeper BUT before you do, get some pipe thread dope with Teflon powder. The will make it easier to turn in. Since it is an elbow, "clocking" to get the tubing end point the correct direction is the important thing. It is also important to never go beyond the position as backing up will make it leak. powder for ease of tightening and some "crazy glue" that sets up to hold the "clocking" and not leak even if it isn't real tight. Some times that last turn can get so tight that you will break something trying to get to the right position. If you get into this place where you think you can't turn it locks up. Hope I did a better job explaining a solution this time. Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair Safety Programs Editor - TC EAA Sport Pilot ----- Original Message ----- From: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314(at)earthlink.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: screwing AN elbow into cleavland brake > > The threads are fine in both the brakes and the AN fitting. It's just > clear that to get it to go further it's going to take some force and I > don't want to push it any further than I have to. So, my question is, > is there a specification for a minimum number of threads that should be > engaged in these AN fittings? > > cgalley wrote: > > > > You also may have damaged threads as it took a fitting and easily turned is > > about 4 turn by hand. The fitting then had no play. > > > > > -- > Tom Sargent, RV-6A, Landing gear > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 26, 2004
From: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net>
Subject: Re: screwing AN elbow into cleavland brake
Below is the standard for pipe threads (NPT). Hopefully this will come through better than the previous table which was HTML and got totally garbled on transmission. American Standard Taper Pipe Threads Columns below are: 1. Nominal size 2. Actual OD 3. Threads per inch 4. Length of engagement (tightened by hand) 5. Hand tight turns 6. Wrench makeup turns 7. Length of effective thread 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 1/8 0.405 27 0.180 4 2.5 0.260 1/4 0.540 18 0.200 4 3 0.401 3/8 0.675 18 0.240 4 3 0.408 1/2 0.840 14 0.320 4 3 0.534 So, the total threads engaged should be 6-7 depending on the pipe size. These specifications are for pressures up to 10,000 psi, so a little less than this would probably be fine for anything in our planes. They also assume that both the male and female threads are nominal. Since each can be +/- 1/2 thread from nominal you could have an engagement of +/- 1 from the above numbers. In general, I accept anything that is five threads or more. If it is a low pressure fitting, I might even go down to four (brakes are not low pressure). I have found plenty of threads that are not to spec, by the way - usually under tapped. Dick Tasker thomas a. sargent wrote: > >The threads are fine in both the brakes and the AN fitting. It's just >clear that to get it to go further it's going to take some force and I >don't want to push it any further than I have to. So, my question is, >is there a specification for a minimum number of threads that should be >engaged in these AN fittings? > >cgalley wrote: > > >> >>You also may have damaged threads as it took a fitting and easily turned is >>about 4 turn by hand. The fitting then had no play. >> >> >> > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us>
"'owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com '"(at)matronics.com
Subject: rocket scientists
Date: Jun 26, 2004
Jim, most of us rocket scientists on the list don't happen to have a schematic of a garmin 300 in our back pockets so your question wasn't very answerable. I can tell you that the 400 series garmins put out "aviation" gps data, the handhelds put out national marine electronics association 0183 verxx data. Not sure what the differences are in these two types data streams but I believe they are different. I don't remember if the porcine converter will digest the aviation type data or not, but it will digest the nmea 0183 data. the trio avionics unit will digest either though. I can attest that the navaid works better on the serial data then it does on the analog data, (less oscillation) but it does work on both. And the trio works better then the navaid both staying on track and not wandering. Call porcine or try chuck at trio avionics if you want more specific info. He's very friendly and would be glad to help you out even if you don't buy his product. W ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us>
"'owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com '"(at)matronics.com
Subject: water vs oil
Date: Jun 26, 2004
water may boil at 100C but it will evaporate at something slightly below 0C and above, and very little water by mass will actually dissolve into the oil. The oil manufacturers work hard on this so that even a luke warm engine can motivate water out of the oil. The issue is rate, but at 90C it will get rid of all the water in due time unless you are flying through rain. The atmosphere you are in will always have a dew point well below engine temps so it must move the water out eventually. (I've been told this rule may not hold up in the deep south where it gets so humid the rain falls up) W ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Oldsfolks(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 27, 2004
Subject: Re:how tight threaded fittings in the tank
Better be sure the vent line fitting is tight too. I forgot and left one only finger tight ,once. It would seep fuel into the line while parked and periodically spurt it onto the ground,as the tank warmed. After being notified about my "Fuel leak" numerous times,I finally removed the tank,access cover and tightened the fitting. I didn't make the same mistake on the second plane. Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor Charleston,Arkansas Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Huft" <rv8tor(at)lazy8.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List Bird Rash
Date: Jun 27, 2004
I replaced the outboard leading edge skin on my 8. (I was using a bolt in the tie down hole to jack the airplane, a wheel jumped a chock, and the plane rolled a little, fell off the jack, and the jack put a big dent in the bottom of the skin.I couldn't stand the thought of a bondo repair, so I replaced the whole skin). Anyway, the 8 skins are prepunched, so it might have been a little easier. The holes in the new skin matched the holes in the old ribs (and the skin cost $80...thanks Van's). I had to take the fuel tank off that side so I could reach in and buck the rivets, and of course the wing tips. I was lucky that the airplane was not painted yet. It was well worth the trouble in the end. Good luck, John Huft p.s. I don't use the bolt in the tiedown hole anymore. ----- Original Message ----- From: <smoothweasel(at)juno.com> Subject: RV-List: RV-List Bird Rash > > Hey guys, I intercepted the path of a innocent bystander (some kind of > a bird) at aprox. 180kn. today. It only made a little click noise but > looking to the left revealed a seen that I didn't wan't to see. I now > have a really nice or maybe not so nice dent on the leading edge of the > wing and it isn't where I would put a landing light. > Have anyone of you had experience doing this kind of repair? Did > you replace the whole skin or can I cut out the dent, flute the edge and > then make a new piece to fit the cut out? > > The dent is contained between two ribs. > > Weasel Graber > -4 (39hr.....was happy, now feelin bad) > Brooksville MS > 662 574 5210 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gordon Robertson" <grobertson(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Removing dent in wing
Date: Jun 27, 2004
>> snip... I did find a pro in a local Antique Auto restoration shop who was quite competent in metal fabrication and repair and on aluminum and steel. He removed my dent in 15 minutes with a body hammer and a dolly. You can not tell, even under close examination, that the leading edge was damaged ... end snip There are franchises all over the place (look in the yellow pages) called "Dent King", or "Dent Pro" or some such name. Varies with franchise. They specialize in removing dents from cars without needing repainting etc. They use special tools and proprietary know-how to push out dents. I am sure they can do just fine with aluminum. They advertise that the fix will not be noticeable at all when completed. Best of all, they only charge about $100 - $200 depending on the size of the dent, and THEY COME TO YOUR HOUSE WITH THEIR VAN. Let us know on the list if you try this and if it is satisfactory. Gordon Robertson RV8 ready for engine ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tracy Crook" <lors01(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: water vs oil
Date: Jun 27, 2004
----- Original Message ----- From: Wheeler North<mailto:wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> To: 'RV-List Digest Server ' ; "'owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com '"(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, June 27, 2004 1:33 AM Subject: RV-List: water vs oil water may boil at 100C but it will evaporate at something slightly below 0C and above, and very little water by mass will actually dissolve into the oil. The oil manufacturers work hard on this so that even a luke warm engine can motivate water out of the oil. The issue is rate, but at 90C it will get rid of all the water in due time unless you are flying through rain. The atmosphere you are in will always have a dew point well below engine temps so it must move the water out eventually. (I've been told this rule may not hold up in the deep south where it gets so humid the rain falls up) W About time somebody dispelled the myth that indicated oil temp has to reach boiling point to get rid of moisture. Another factor is that all the oil eventually goes over the cylinder heads where the peak temperature of the oil does go well over boiling point even when the oil temp indicator is showing 180F or so. BTW, we rotor heads measure oil temp after the cooler. Is this the same practice you Lycoming drivers use? Tracy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List Bird Rash
Date: Jun 27, 2004
Don't believe it's a "once in a lifetime" event. I took a sparrow hit on the leading edge of the fuel tank, then a month later had a hawk come thru the front windshield. The full story is at: http://www.vansairforce.net/articles/howtoruinyourwindshield.htm Pics at: http://members3.clubphoto.com/socal230330/429051/guest.phtml Be careful out there. Laird RV-6 950hrs SoCal On Jun 26, 2004, at 3:51 PM, Brian Kraut wrote: > > The good news is that a bird strike is a once in a lifetime > experience. You > have now probably been saved from the chance of one going through your > windshield sometime later in life. > > Brian Kraut > Engineering Alternatives, Inc. > www.engalt.com > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of > smoothweasel(at)juno.com > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: RV-List Bird Rash > > > Hey guys, I intercepted the path of a innocent bystander (some kind > of > a bird) at aprox. 180kn. today. It only made a little click noise but > looking to the left revealed a seen that I didn't wan't to see. I now > have a really nice or maybe not so nice dent on the leading edge of the > wing and it isn't where I would put a landing light. > Have anyone of you had experience doing this kind of repair? Did > you replace the whole skin or can I cut out the dent, flute the edge > and > then make a new piece to fit the cut out? > > The dent is contained between two ribs. > > Weasel Graber > -4 (39hr.....was happy, now feelin bad) > Brooksville MS > 662 574 5210 > > > _- > ======================================================================= > _- > ======================================================================= > _- > ======================================================================= > _- > ======================================================================= > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "rv6tc" <rv6tc(at)myawai.com>
Subject: Falcon Filght in the Rockies
Date: Jun 27, 2004
Howdy RVers. I just returned from working at the EAA Rocky Mountain fly in where I worked on the line with the airshow performers. I wanted to publicly let you all (all-Y'all for the Texans) know how well represented we are by the members of Falcon Flight. To those of you who have seen them fly, their flying speaks for itself. We had performers ranging from a DeHavilland DH-112 Venom (only three flying) to a MIG -17, with a number of military and professional pilots, but I wanted to tell you that no one was as totally professional and easy to work with as the Falcon Flight. Their hard work made a positive impression on everyone at the air show staff, and are fantastic ambassadors to the RV world. Just thought you should know. Thanks guys, it was a pleasure. Keith Hughes RV-6 Denver ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MMcs139808(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 27, 2004
Subject: Re: Insurance Requirement Change
In the UK/Ireland several insurance companies offer reduced rates for lady automobile drivers. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Anglin" <jlanglin44(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: rocket scientists
Date: Jun 27, 2004
What I have learned so far is that the deviation bar output (left + and right +) of the GNC300 will control the autopilot. There is some evidence that it takes the abalog and converts it to digital but that can't be verified. I am connecting via the deviation bar outputs and praying. Even if it doesn't follow a course it will hold the plane level while I look at a chart............... Jim ----- Original Message ----- From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> <"'owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com '"(at)matronics.com> Subject: RV-List: rocket scientists > > Jim, > > most of us rocket scientists on the list don't happen to have a schematic of > a garmin 300 in our back pockets so your question wasn't very answerable. > > I can tell you that the 400 series garmins put out "aviation" gps data, the > handhelds put out national marine electronics association 0183 verxx data. > Not sure what the differences are in these two types data streams but I > believe they are different. > > I don't remember if the porcine converter will digest the aviation type data > or not, but it will digest the nmea 0183 data. > > the trio avionics unit will digest either though. > > I can attest that the navaid works better on the serial data then it does on > the analog data, (less oscillation) but it does work on both. And the trio > works better then the navaid both staying on track and not wandering. > > Call porcine or try chuck at trio avionics if you want more specific info. > He's very friendly and would be glad to help you out even if you don't buy > his product. > > W > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dean Psiropoulos" <deanpsir(at)easystreet.com>
Subject: RV-6 Rudder Stops
Date: Jun 28, 2004
Ok guys I've been pulling my hair out tonight about this thing. I've thought about this and even drawn out the geometry. 35 degrees from neutral to left stop and 35 degrees from neutral to right stop is what the instructions say. If the fuselage sides were straight, that would mean the angle cut into the stop should be 55 degrees (since the rudder horn is 90 degrees to neutral rudder, 180 deg fuse centerline minus 90deg horn minus 35 degrees max rudder travel equal 55 degrees remaining). However the fuse sides are not straight and since they angle outward toward the rudder (sort of) one must make the angle in the stop smaller to account for this. My measurements show the fuse sides angle about 10 degrees back in the tail area. So.due to this fact it looks like I need to also subtract this value from the 180 degrees in the equation above, which leaves me with a 45 degree cut in the rudder stop. It also seems like an RV builder long ago told me that his stop came out to be about 45 degrees but I don't remember for certain. So..those of you who've done this, is 45 degrees the right answer? And while I was trimming my side skins to try and get the rudder to be able to travel that far (assuming 45 degree stop) I seem to have run into something that is keeping the rudder from quite getting there. Can't seem to figure out exactly what that is yet (which is what caused me to draw out the geometry and start pulling what little is left of my hair out) but that brought up the question...if indeed my calculations are correct and I need the 45 degree stop can I actually get the rudder to move that far? Anybody had a problem getting your rudder to bump up against the stop (assuming you needed that much angle on the stop)? Thanks for the help. Dean Psiropoulos RV-6A N197DM TMX-360 in test cell this week. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 28, 2004
Subject: Re: RV-6 Rudder Stops
Dean, Your math and geometry look right. The angle you're talking about is only the angle at the very back of the stop where the rudder horn touches. I would suggest making the stop oversized, and then slide it fore and aft for the right rudder travel before making the rivet holes. Make sure you get the interference fixed before doing the stops. If you have to adjust the heim joints, the position of the stops will change. Moving the heim joints out to get more travel doesn't help much, since the pivot point is fixed, and making the hinges longer just means that the rudder has to travel farther for the same angle. My rudder skins hit the vertical stab very close to the stop. Also, the bottom fiberglass tip rubs some before reaching the stops. I think I will have to trim some of it. In my RV-7 plans book it calls for 30 to 35 degrees. Not sure about the -6. The extra 5 degrees may not be worth the trouble. Hope this helps. Dan Hopper RV-7A (Final inspection over with. Still waiting for FAA registration for signoff. Register you aircraft several months before you're done!) In a message dated 6/28/04 12:44:09 AM US Eastern Standard Time, deanpsir(at)easystreet.com writes: > > > Ok guys I've been pulling my hair out tonight about this thing. I've > thought about this and even drawn out the geometry. 35 degrees from > neutral to left stop and 35 degrees from neutral to right stop is what the > instructions say. If the fuselage sides were straight, that would mean the > angle cut into the stop should be 55 degrees (since the rudder horn is 90 > degrees to neutral rudder, 180 deg fuse centerline minus 90deg horn minus 35 > degrees max rudder travel equal 55 degrees remaining). However the fuse > sides are not straight and since they angle outward toward the rudder (sort > of) one must make the angle in the stop smaller to account for this. My > measurements show the fuse sides angle about 10 degrees back in the tail > area. So.due to this fact it looks like I need to also subtract this value > from the 180 degrees in the equation above, which leaves me with a 45 degree > cut in the rudder stop. It also seems like an RV builder long ago told me > that his stop came out to be about 45 degrees but I don't remember for > certain. So..those of you who've done this, is 45 degrees the right answer? > > > And while I was trimming my side skins to try and get the rudder to be able > to travel that far (assuming 45 degree stop) I seem to have run into > something that is keeping the rudder from quite getting there. Can't seem > to figure out exactly what that is yet (which is what caused me to draw out > the geometry and start pulling what little is left of my hair out) but that > brought up the question...if indeed my calculations are correct and I need > the 45 degree stop can I actually get the rudder to move that far? Anybody > had a problem getting your rudder to bump up against the stop (assuming you > needed that much angle on the stop)? Thanks for the help. > > > Dean Psiropoulos > > RV-6A N197DM > > TMX-360 in test cell this week. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV8ter(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 28, 2004
Subject: Re: dynon performance
Hi Tom, Thanks for the feedback! For the G meter, the 10A version which supports audio should help out because you should be able to set audio alarms at different values so you don't have to look at it nearly as much. We do this in some military aircraft using pre-recorded .wav files (I think they are .wav files - I could double check if they ask). Like all other software, you have to figure out how to do this without being overly sensitive and annoying to the crew, i.e. if you set up an alarm to go off at plus 3 Gs and another at plus 4 Gs and you are trying to hold it steady at 3 during a loop and go back and forth between 2.8 and 3.2 Gs what should the alarm do? And what if you quickly go from 2.9 to 4 and back to 3.1, what should you hear then? Stuff like that they have to figure out. But it's definately doable and nice when working right. The beauty is in software the test, fix, fly, test, fix, fly, test, fix, fly...is cheap compared to hardware fixes and can be done usually a lot quicker. Same concept for the AI fixes you'd like to see. I think the SW requirements writers don't write the requirements perfectly the first time or two on purpose for each function so they have job security by having to stick around to keep tweaking the requirements. :-) Nobody on the email lists I asked had anything good to say about their Angle of Attack function. I guess they have a ways to go to fix it and maybe it will require a hardware mod to their probe. It's one of the main reasons I want the unit so I hope they get on that one. Another feature I hope they add is a an ability to add a cheap glass head that slaved to the main unit so in Tandem aircraft arrangements a pilot in back could use it to fly. A hardware change I hope they make before I buy (but surely probably won't in time) is to use a knob instead of just all buttons to more quickly and easy do stuff like change barometric pressure values. I'd pay some more for that ease of use feature. Lucky In a message dated 6/27/2004 8:27:35 PM Eastern Standard Time, skytop(at)megsinet.net writes: Lucky, You raise some good points about the usability of the EFIS-D10. (see below). Confession: I have 35 hours behind the EFIS and have just yesterday began aerobatics. First, I am hard pressed to deal with the usability of the g-meter beyond 2 g's. I have another g-meter from Van's and it works just fine - easier to watch the needle when pressing into tight situations. I feel this feature is just a bonus goodie on the Dynon. You may want to leave it set throughout the flight, just to see the absolute max, while resetting the larger gauge between maneuvers. The rate of climb on the Dynon is more sensitive than my steam unit and when I want to stabilize my altitude, I look to the Dynon. Again, small font, but very useful once you know where to look. Regarding the airspeed, I almost always rely on the big numbers on the Dynon. I found it most useful when coming up with the numbers for placing in my POH regarding stall speeds. The lowest number that your brain registers (prior to the break) is the number that goes into the book. I say "prior to the break", because during the break, it registers about 2mph drop for a brief moment during the buffet and nose drop. Once in a while, I will notice the artificial horizon is banked while I am traveling straight. This is a warning that the ball is out of center. Rest my toe on the right rudder (1/2 ball's worth) and the AH comes back level. I like to use the standard rate turn feature on this unit over the one provided with my wing leveler. And most of all, I like the way it works without regard to physical limitations regarding aileron rolls and loops. I have not gotten used to the way they represent the number of degrees bank and pitch. ===> With a copy of this e-mail to Dynon support, I would suggest they add a feature where; when the bank angle or climb angle exceeds a certain point, numbers appear on the screen, maybe every 5 degrees or so. Then you could tell you are at 60, 65, 70 degrees at a glance. The way it is now, I have to think about it. Maybe for F-16 pilots it is intuitive, but not for me. The feature I REALLY like is the check lists. Very well done. One quirk that bothers me is when using the checklist during engine start, and the unit is running on its backup battery, at some point, maybe when I switch on the aircraft power buss, three or four of the lower lines of the check list is overlaid with data. I forget exactly what data, maybe the battery voltage and a couple other things. But sure enough, it blows away the items I'm suppost to check following the engine start. Maybe for someone that does not have another indication of voltage, this is a good feature. Good luck with your fact finding. I'm sure you'll love your EFIS once you pull it out of the box. That last year of construction will pass more enjoyably for you. Tom Barnes RV-6 N442TB 35+ hrs. ~snip A few of questions about the Dynon EFIS for those that have flown with it for a while. Why haven't I heard anyone talk about it's Angle of Attack performance? Does the AOA work well? Is it's display too small to be easily used in the pattern? Same for the VSI. I have heard that it's very hard to use in flight - requires one to study it vs. quick glance. Why is that and have they tried to fix it yet? For those that are using it, besides an alternate ASI and Altimeter, what other steam gauge do you recommend to buy to make life easier? For example, is the G meter too difficult to read during acro? Finally, it's encoder. What's a good transponder that can take read it's seriel output? The one I was contemplating appears setup for a parallel signal. thx, lucky ~snip ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 28, 2004
From: linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-6 Rudder Stops
Dean Psiropoulos wrote: > >Ok guys I've been pulling my hair out tonight about this thing. I've >thought about this and even drawn out the geometry. 35 degrees from >neutral to left stop and 35 degrees from neutral to right stop is what the >instructions say. If the fuselage sides were straight, that would mean the >angle cut into the stop should be 55 degrees (since the rudder horn is 90 >degrees to neutral rudder, 180 deg fuse centerline minus 90deg horn minus 35 >degrees max rudder travel equal 55 degrees remaining). However the fuse >sides are not straight and since they angle outward toward the rudder (sort >of) one must make the angle in the stop smaller to account for this. My >measurements show the fuse sides angle about 10 degrees back in the tail >area. So.due to this fact it looks like I need to also subtract this value >from the 180 degrees in the equation above, which leaves me with a 45 degree >cut in the rudder stop. It also seems like an RV builder long ago told me >that his stop came out to be about 45 degrees but I don't remember for >certain. So..those of you who've done this, is 45 degrees the right answer? > Well, I haven't done this ..... planning on a -10 in the near future ..... but take it from an Pitts driver .... you want all the rudder you can get. There isn't any real design reason to limit the rudder travel ..... I've seen my buddies -6a up close ..... and you just may need the rudder travel in a severe crosswind someday. Instead of doing the math to incorporate the fuse angle, just drop a plumb bob to the floor from the hinge line and the trailing edge ..... draw the lines and measure the angle. >And while I was trimming my side skins to try and get the rudder to be able >to travel that far (assuming 45 degree stop) I seem to have run into >something that is keeping the rudder from quite getting there. Can't seem >to figure out exactly what that is yet (which is what caused me to draw out >the geometry and start pulling what little is left of my hair out) but that >brought up the question...if indeed my calculations are correct and I need >the 45 degree stop can I actually get the rudder to move that far? Anybody >had a problem getting your rudder to bump up against the stop (assuming you >needed that much angle on the stop)? Thanks for the help. > You may check to see if the geometry of the pedals isn't causing them to hit something. Maybe the brake hoses need to be re-routed or fittings turned etc. for more cleareance. I hope someone that has actual experience on a -6 will comment ...... my comment is from a practical standpoint. I can't really find fault with your math though! Linn > > >Dean Psiropoulos > >RV-6A N197DM > >TMX-360 in test cell this week. > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-6 Rudder Stops
Date: Jun 28, 2004
> Ok guys I've been pulling my hair out tonight about this thing. I've > thought about this and even drawn out the geometry. 35 degrees from > neutral to left stop and 35 degrees from neutral to right > stop is what the instructions say. If the fuselage sides > were straight, that would mean the angle cut into the stop Another way to work it out is to mount the horizontal stab and elevators together with the vs and rudder. The desired deflection angles bring the rudder quite close to the elevators when they are at their neutral position. I'd set that gap at around 1/2" and call it good. Mine has the correct angular deflection, but gets within about 1/8" under no air loads, a bit too close I'd say. Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN RV6-A N66AP 484 hours http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 28, 2004
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: turbine power
I talked with them a couple years ago, they calculate HP from thrust, after asking around I learned that method has a lot to be desired. The way I look at it is if they cant get over 3000 FPM climb........well do I need to say any more. They dont give performance numbers for the RV-4. > >OK Folks, > > There's a new article in "Kitbuilt Airplanes" about "Affordable > Turbine power" and there Solar turbine engine. Again they boast that > they are getting 16 gph at 250 hp and 13 gph at 200 hp using an > automotive type fuel injection system. Now the last time we talked about > this it was said that the best they could possibly get would be about 1.1 > to 1.2 pounds of fuel per hp with a single stage compressor. That's over > 20 gph! So what's going on? Could they possibly be getting that kind of > fuel burn? It sure would be COOL to be running a turbine. Any comments > from you engineers out there? > >Wayne > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 28, 2004
Subject: Re: Insurance Requirements
In a message dated 6/25/04 11:44:48 AM US Eastern Standard Time, n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com writes: > > > 3. Avemco should be viewed in light of their handling of the infamous > Davenport case where payment was refused when a fuel system change was > made, then re-changed again to original configuration and then an > off-airport landing occured where some property damage was done. Avemco held > that there should have been a new airworthiness inspection upon the first > change, and another one when the system was restored to its original > configuration; since that wasn't done they said the coverage was void. If > you have Avemco I wonder just what, if any, coverage you really have. Look > up the case if your interested. I dropped Avemco after that one !! > Since then it is my understanding they have changed their attitude on this > sort of thing, but you wonder ? > > 4. Illegitimus non carborundum ! > > John at Salida, CO > > > This is also my reason for not using Avemco. I'm sure anyone with Avemco insurance who reads the case would have to wonder if they are "insured." Dan H. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 28, 2004
Subject: Re: RV-6 Rudder Stops
In a message dated 6/28/04 4:40:20 AM US Eastern Standard Time, Hopperdhh(at)aol.com writes: > > > Dean, > > Your math and geometry look right. The angle you're talking about is only > the angle at the very back of the stop where the rudder horn touches. I > would > suggest making the stop oversized, and then slide it fore and aft for the > right > rudder travel before making the rivet holes. Make sure you get the > interference fixed before doing the stops. If you have to adjust the heim > joints, the > position of the stops will change. > > I was wrong in saying that the "position of the stops will change." The pivot point is fixed to the vertical stab which is fixed to the fuselage. Therefore the angle, once set should not change. Dan ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 28, 2004
Subject: Pledge?
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Is lemon pledge still the favorite cleaner for the canopy? - Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 28, 2004
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List Bird Rash
I saw an A&P remove just that type of dent. He started tapping with a rubber mallet around the dent and pretty soon it was 90% gone! I was amazed at what I saw. I would ask around locally as to who has the skill to remove that type of dent. Remember though the alum is 2024 once bent it is difficult to return it to its proper shape for us mortals. > >Hey guys, I intercepted the path of a innocent bystander (some kind of >a bird) at aprox. 180kn. today. It only made a little click noise but >looking to the left revealed a seen that I didn't wan't to see. I now >have a really nice or maybe not so nice dent on the leading edge of the >wing and it isn't where I would put a landing light. > Have anyone of you had experience doing this kind of repair? Did >you replace the whole skin or can I cut out the dent, flute the edge and >then make a new piece to fit the cut out? > >The dent is contained between two ribs. > >Weasel Graber >-4 (39hr.....was happy, now feelin bad) >Brooksville MS >662 574 5210 > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net>
Subject: Re: RV-6 Rudder Stops
Date: Jun 28, 2004
Because of all the filing of skins to get 30 degrees deflection, I chose to accept 30 degrees, not 35 as my "goal". The angle on my stop is 36 degrees from perpendicular. Gives me 30 degrees of rudder deflection. Stop measured on Drawing is 47 degrees from perpendicular. David ----- Original Message ----- From: <Hopperdhh(at)aol.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-6 Rudder Stops > > Dean, > > Your math and geometry look right. The angle you're talking about is only > the angle at the very back of the stop where the rudder horn touches. I would > suggest making the stop oversized, and then slide it fore and aft for the right > rudder travel before making the rivet holes. Make sure you get the > interference fixed before doing the stops. If you have to adjust the heim joints, the > position of the stops will change. > > Moving the heim joints out to get more travel doesn't help much, since the > pivot point is fixed, and making the hinges longer just means that the rudder > has to travel farther for the same angle. My rudder skins hit the vertical stab > very close to the stop. Also, the bottom fiberglass tip rubs some before > reaching the stops. I think I will have to trim some of it. > > In my RV-7 plans book it calls for 30 to 35 degrees. Not sure about the -6. > The extra 5 degrees may not be worth the trouble. > > Hope this helps. > > Dan Hopper > RV-7A (Final inspection over with. Still waiting for FAA registration for > signoff. Register you aircraft several months before you're done!) > > > In a message dated 6/28/04 12:44:09 AM US Eastern Standard Time, > deanpsir(at)easystreet.com writes: > > > > > > > Ok guys I've been pulling my hair out tonight about this thing. I've > > thought about this and even drawn out the geometry. 35 degrees from > > neutral to left stop and 35 degrees from neutral to right stop is what the > > instructions say. If the fuselage sides were straight, that would mean the > > angle cut into the stop should be 55 degrees (since the rudder horn is 90 > > degrees to neutral rudder, 180 deg fuse centerline minus 90deg horn minus 35 > > degrees max rudder travel equal 55 degrees remaining). However the fuse > > sides are not straight and since they angle outward toward the rudder (sort > > of) one must make the angle in the stop smaller to account for this. My > > measurements show the fuse sides angle about 10 degrees back in the tail > > area. So.due to this fact it looks like I need to also subtract this value > > from the 180 degrees in the equation above, which leaves me with a 45 degree > > cut in the rudder stop. It also seems like an RV builder long ago told me > > that his stop came out to be about 45 degrees but I don't remember for > > certain. So..those of you who've done this, is 45 degrees the right answer? > > > > > > And while I was trimming my side skins to try and get the rudder to be able > > to travel that far (assuming 45 degree stop) I seem to have run into > > something that is keeping the rudder from quite getting there. Can't seem > > to figure out exactly what that is yet (which is what caused me to draw out > > the geometry and start pulling what little is left of my hair out) but that > > brought up the question...if indeed my calculations are correct and I need > > the 45 degree stop can I actually get the rudder to move that far? Anybody > > had a problem getting your rudder to bump up against the stop (assuming you > > needed that much angle on the stop)? Thanks for the help. > > > > > > Dean Psiropoulos > > > > RV-6A N197DM > > > > TMX-360 in test cell this week. > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 28, 2004
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)direcpc.com>
Subject: Re: RV-6 Rudder Stops
Basically the only measurement needed is to make sure that at full rudder deflection the trailing edge of the elevator is 1/2-3/4" away from rudder. This results in approx 35 degrees rudder deflection. Gary Dean Psiropoulos wrote: > >Ok guys I've been pulling my hair out tonight about this thing. I've >thought about this and even drawn out the geometry. 35 degrees from >neutral to left stop and 35 degrees from neutral to right stop is what the >instructions say. If the fuselage sides were straight, that would mean the >angle cut into the stop should be 55 degrees (since the rudder horn is 90 >degrees to neutral rudder, 180 deg fuse centerline minus 90deg horn minus 35 >degrees max rudder travel equal 55 degrees remaining). However the fuse >sides are not straight and since they angle outward toward the rudder (sort >of) one must make the angle in the stop smaller to account for this. My >measurements show the fuse sides angle about 10 degrees back in the tail >area. So.due to this fact it looks like I need to also subtract this value >from the 180 degrees in the equation above, which leaves me with a 45 degree >cut in the rudder stop. It also seems like an RV builder long ago told me >that his stop came out to be about 45 degrees but I don't remember for >certain. So..those of you who've done this, is 45 degrees the right answer? > > >And while I was trimming my side skins to try and get the rudder to be able >to travel that far (assuming 45 degree stop) I seem to have run into >something that is keeping the rudder from quite getting there. Can't seem >to figure out exactly what that is yet (which is what caused me to draw out >the geometry and start pulling what little is left of my hair out) but that >brought up the question...if indeed my calculations are correct and I need >the 45 degree stop can I actually get the rudder to move that far? Anybody >had a problem getting your rudder to bump up against the stop (assuming you >needed that much angle on the stop)? Thanks for the help. > > >Dean Psiropoulos > >RV-6A N197DM > >TMX-360 in test cell this week. > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Falcon Filght in the Rockies
Date: Jun 28, 2004
From: "Rabaut, Chuck" <Chuck.Rabaut(at)fresnosheriff.org>
Mike, Hope you're not offended, but I'm reposting "for the archives". Chuck -----Original Message----- Subject: RE: RV-List: Falcon Filght in the Rockies Great Post Keith. No doubt they will appreciate you saying so. I can tell you from personal experience, they are all those things you mentioned, and a lot more. They fly great, but more importantly, they are great people. The team had a personal loss last year and really showed their professionalism during that time. They got back out on the circuit and just kept flying. When times are tough, you really see what people are made of. They responded gracefully with dignity. Remember, there is no money in this stuff. They do it for the love of the sport, personal gratification, comradery, fun, and for the public. They shell out their own time and effort to put on a show. Sure its fun, but it is a lot of work and commitment. Not to mention the cost. They are not only ambassadors to the RV community, but to general aviation as a whole. Many pilots, and wanna be pilots have been inspired by their pursuit of perfection, myself included. I first saw Falcon Flight fly into Waco a few years ago. They brought the place to a halt. The field was buzzing with early morning activity with all the arrivals into the tiny grass strip. But when they made their first pass, all eyes were up and glued, including mine. For a few moments, the world stopped for every single person on that field. A real class act. Since then I have gotten to fly with them on a several occasions. They fly great, but as always, it's the people. When you get to know them personally, you quickly learn why they do it, and why they are so good. It's a passion. Those at Osh this year will get to see them perform their routine with an 8 ship I believe. With any luck, I'll get to hang on a wing with them. Come out and see them. If you have a desire to fly like that, you have a golden opportunity to train with them. Falcon Flight, along with other like minded formation pilots, are putting on a formation clinic in Mason City Iowa, the weekend before Osh. Details here. http://www.mstewart.net/teamrv/formationclinic/masoncity04/ Don't miss this golden opportunity to learn from experienced pilots and hang out with pilots with a passion for precision formation demonstration flight like none you have seen before. Its fun, challenging, and very rewarding. Regards, Mike -----Original Message----- Subject: RV-List: Falcon Filght in the Rockies Howdy RVers. I just returned from working at the EAA Rocky Mountain fly in where I worked on the line with the airshow performers. I wanted to publicly let you all (all-Y'all for the Texans) know how well represented we are by the members of Falcon Flight. To those of you who have seen them fly, their flying speaks for itself. We had performers ranging from a DeHavilland DH-112 Venom (only three flying) to a MIG -17, with a number of military and professional pilots, but I wanted to tell you that no one was as totally professional and easy to work with as the Falcon Flight. Their hard work made a positive impression on everyone at the air show staff, and are fantastic ambassadors to the RV world. Just thought you should know. Thanks guys, it was a pleasure. Keith Hughes RV-6 Denver ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Subject: RV-6 Rudder Stops
Date: Jun 28, 2004
Gary's correct, the most important issue is non-interference with the elevator. Additionally, position them vertically so they don't interfere with the rudder cables. Don't bother calculating the angle, it will vary with the space between the elevator horns and the adjustment of the rod ends. Just put an oversize stop in place and trim with a Dremel. Greg > > > Basically the only measurement needed is to make sure that at > full rudder deflection the trailing edge of the elevator is > 1/2-3/4" away from rudder. This results in approx 35 degrees > rudder deflection. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 28, 2004
From: Stuart B McCurdy <sturdy(at)att.net>
Subject: Re: Falcon Flight in the Rockies
Keith and the RV World, Thanks for the great comments about Falcon Flight, but I want the world to know how well run and what a great site the newly relocated Rocky Mountain Regional Fly-in is. The site is in the flat land east of Denver, and through it is very close to DIA, the airspace was not a problem. The airfield layout is perfect for display and for the airshow. But even greater was the attention to detail and the responsiveness of the organizers. We were met on the flight line by Keith and others who cared about what they were doing and had the information ready to pass out. Everything was planned and taken care of. Their efforts and answers spoke well of their preplanning. Keith was on top of everything making sure our needs were met, that info was flowing, that performers were ready on time, and that any problems were taken care of. Scott McMillan and Keith Hughes (and many others) put on a great fly-in. Stu McCurdy Falcon Flight ------ From: "rv6tc" <rv6tc(at)myawai.com> Subject: RV-List: Falcon Filght in the Rockies Howdy RVers. I just returned from working at the EAA Rocky Mountain fly in where I worked on the line with the airshow performers. I wanted to publicly let you all (all-Y'all for the Texans) know how well represented we are by the members of Falcon Flight. To those of you who have seen them fly, their flying speaks for itself. We had performers ranging from a DeHavilland DH-112 Venom (only three flying) to a MIG -17, with a number of military and professional pilots, but I wanted to tell you that no one was as totally professional and easy to work with as the Falcon Flight. Their hard work made a positive impression on everyone at the air show staff, and are fantastic ambassadors to the RV world. Just thought you should know. Thanks guys, it was a pleasure. Keith Hughes RV-6 Denver ____________ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: rudder stops
Date: Jun 28, 2004
From: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu>
SNIP From: "Dean Psiropoulos" <deanpsir(at)easystreet.com> Subject: RV-List: RV-6 Rudder Stops Ok guys I've been pulling my hair out tonight about this thing. I've thought about this and even drawn out the geometry. 35 degrees from neutral to left stop and 35 degrees from neutral to right stop is what the instructions say. If the fuselage sides were straight, that would mean the angle cut into the stop should be 55 degrees (since the rudder horn is 90 degrees to neutral rudder, 180 deg fuse centerline minus 90deg horn minus 35 degrees max rudder travel equal 55 degrees remaining). However the fuse sides are not straight and since they angle outward toward the rudder (sort of) one must make the angle in the stop smaller to account for this. My measurements show the fuse sides angle about 10 degrees back in the tail area. So.due to this fact it looks like I need to also subtract this value from the 180 degrees in the equation above, which leaves me with a 45 degree cut in the rudder stop. It also seems like an RV builder long ago told me that his stop came out to be about 45 degrees but I don't remember for certain. So..those of you who've done this, is 45 degrees the right answer? And while I was trimming my side skins to try and get the rudder to be able to travel that far (assuming 45 degree stop) I seem to have run into something that is keeping the rudder from quite getting there. Can't seem to figure out exactly what that is yet (which is what caused me to draw out the geometry and start pulling what little is left of my hair out) but that brought up the question...if indeed my calculations are correct and I need the 45 degree stop can I actually get the rudder to move that far? Anybody had a problem getting your rudder to bump up against the stop (assuming you needed that much angle on the stop)? Thanks for the help. SNIP Dean, The rod ends on the rudder can be screwed in or out somewhat to help correct the interferences. Often the fiberglas rudder bottom will hit the VS stab. If the rod ends are out as far as is designed, then it's time to trim fuselage skin or grind fiberglas. Have fun. My Rocket required that part of the rudder fiberglass bottom be ground away to clear the bolt heads that hold the VS to the fuselage. I've found that the angles aren't critical. Don't fret over them too much. The elevators provide you with the data you need since the rudder must not touch them! So just hack off the rudder stop as needed to provide 1/4" or so clearance at the elevators. Sometimes eyeball engineering really is best. I think this situation is an appropriate example. Vince Frazier F-1H Rocket, N540VF http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/page1.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Oldsfolks(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 28, 2004
Subject: Re:Pledge?
Not the preferred canopy cleaner around our house !! I'll stick with Mequiars Mirrow Glaze. That's a PROVEN product : not something which might ruin my $5,000.00 Rv-4 canopy. (My time to replace the canopy would be worth that much-at least !!) Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor Charleston,Arkansas Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Oldsfolks(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 28, 2004
Subject: Re:Rv-6 Rudder Stops
Why not just move the rudder to the max travel and place the rudder stop angle on the skin,then trace the angle needed on the rudder stop angle ??? NO math needed !!! Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor Charleston,Arkansas Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Shemp" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Trutrack alt hold
Date: Jun 28, 2004
I just installed the trutrack alt hold and flew for a couple of hours. I couldnt be more pleased. Wow, what a nice upgrade. It held altitude within 10 feet for over an hour and a half, including some small turns. Push the button, its on, push it again, its off. Really simple. The install was also very simple. I would recommend keeping the controller behind the baggage comp, close to the servo, to simplify the wiring harness. I dont have it hooked up to the static system. Excellent customer support as well. I have the old nav aid auto pilot and the two worked well together so far. Jeff Dowling RV-6a Chicago/ Louisville ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Shemp" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-6 Rudder Stops
Date: Jun 28, 2004
As Alex already stated, I would just center the elevator, move the rudder to within about 1/2 inch and drill the stop. The swaged fitting on the rudder pedal side of the cable may be getting stuck on the former and causing the interference. Jeff ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-6 Rudder Stops > > Because of all the filing of skins to get 30 degrees deflection, I chose to > accept 30 degrees, not 35 as my "goal". The angle on my stop is 36 degrees > from perpendicular. Gives me 30 degrees of rudder deflection. Stop > measured on Drawing is 47 degrees from perpendicular. > > David > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: <Hopperdhh(at)aol.com> > To: > Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-6 Rudder Stops > > > > > > Dean, > > > > Your math and geometry look right. The angle you're talking about is only > > the angle at the very back of the stop where the rudder horn touches. I > would > > suggest making the stop oversized, and then slide it fore and aft for the > right > > rudder travel before making the rivet holes. Make sure you get the > > interference fixed before doing the stops. If you have to adjust the heim > joints, the > > position of the stops will change. > > > > Moving the heim joints out to get more travel doesn't help much, since the > > pivot point is fixed, and making the hinges longer just means that the > rudder > > has to travel farther for the same angle. My rudder skins hit the > vertical stab > > very close to the stop. Also, the bottom fiberglass tip rubs some before > > reaching the stops. I think I will have to trim some of it. > > > > In my RV-7 plans book it calls for 30 to 35 degrees. Not sure about > the -6. > > The extra 5 degrees may not be worth the trouble. > > > > Hope this helps. > > > > Dan Hopper > > RV-7A (Final inspection over with. Still waiting for FAA registration for > > signoff. Register you aircraft several months before you're done!) > > > > > > In a message dated 6/28/04 12:44:09 AM US Eastern Standard Time, > > deanpsir(at)easystreet.com writes: > > > > > > > > > > > > Ok guys I've been pulling my hair out tonight about this thing. I've > > > thought about this and even drawn out the geometry. 35 degrees from > > > neutral to left stop and 35 degrees from neutral to right stop is what > the > > > instructions say. If the fuselage sides were straight, that would mean > the > > > angle cut into the stop should be 55 degrees (since the rudder horn is > 90 > > > degrees to neutral rudder, 180 deg fuse centerline minus 90deg horn > minus 35 > > > degrees max rudder travel equal 55 degrees remaining). However the fuse > > > sides are not straight and since they angle outward toward the rudder > (sort > > > of) one must make the angle in the stop smaller to account for this. My > > > measurements show the fuse sides angle about 10 degrees back in the tail > > > area. So.due to this fact it looks like I need to also subtract this > value > > > from the 180 degrees in the equation above, which leaves me with a 45 > degree > > > cut in the rudder stop. It also seems like an RV builder long ago told > me > > > that his stop came out to be about 45 degrees but I don't remember for > > > certain. So..those of you who've done this, is 45 degrees the right > answer? > > > > > > > > > And while I was trimming my side skins to try and get the rudder to be > able > > > to travel that far (assuming 45 degree stop) I seem to have run into > > > something that is keeping the rudder from quite getting there. Can't > seem > > > to figure out exactly what that is yet (which is what caused me to draw > out > > > the geometry and start pulling what little is left of my hair out) but > that > > > brought up the question...if indeed my calculations are correct and I > need > > > the 45 degree stop can I actually get the rudder to move that far? > Anybody > > > had a problem getting your rudder to bump up against the stop (assuming > you > > > needed that much angle on the stop)? Thanks for the help. > > > > > > > > > Dean Psiropoulos > > > > > > RV-6A N197DM > > > > > > TMX-360 in test cell this week. > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Olympia to Arlington Route Suggestions
Date: Jun 28, 2004
I am planning my flight to Arlington for the 9th and would like some suggestions from local flyers. I will be in a meeting the morning of the 9th in Olympia, WA and will be heading to Arlington around 1pm. I am IFR capable and am wondering what the best route to Arlington may be. I have the NOTAM and all the other info from the website. Ross Mickey N9PT ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Sat Radio Antenna
Date: Jun 28, 2004
From: <EricHe(at)FlexSolPackaging.com>
Anyone have any idea if you could run your GPS off a Satellite Radio antenna? They have some slick little antennas. Eric ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: Pledge?
Date: Jun 28, 2004
I've been using Plexus for some years now, used by the Heli guys on those huge bubbles and used by the Biz Jet folks on thier windows to. Not cheap, but does a really nice job. Cheers, Stein Bruch RV6's, Minneapolis -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry Bowen Subject: RV-List: Pledge? Is lemon pledge still the favorite cleaner for the canopy? - Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JusCash(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 28, 2004
Subject: Re: RV-6 Rudder Stops
You have received a lot of good advice about setting the rudder angle. One thing I haven't seen mentioned is rudder cable interference with the stop at full deflection. Make sure that the rudder horn contacts the stop squarely without interference from the cable clevis fork. Cash Copeland RV-6 150hrs and counting Hayward, Ca In a message dated 6/27/2004 10:44:09 PM Pacific Daylight Time, deanpsir(at)easystreet.com writes: Ok guys I've been pulling my hair out tonight about this thing. I've thought about this and even drawn out the geometry. 35 degrees from neutral to left stop and 35 degrees from neutral to right stop is what the instructions say. If the fuselage sides were straight, that would mean the angle cut into the stop should be 55 degrees (since the rudder horn is 90 degrees to neutral rudder, 180 deg fuse centerline minus 90deg horn minus 35 degrees max rudder travel equal 55 degrees remaining). However the fuse sides are not straight and since they angle outward toward the rudder (sort of) one must make the angle in the stop smaller to account for this. My measurements show the fuse sides angle about 10 degrees back in the tail area. So.due to this fact it looks like I need to also subtract this value from the 180 degrees in the equation above, which leaves me with a 45 degree cut in the rudder stop. It also seems like an RV builder long ago told me that his stop came out to be about 45 degrees but I don't remember for certain. So..those of you who've done this, is 45 degrees the right answer? And while I was trimming my side skins to try and get the rudder to be able to travel that far (assuming 45 degree stop) I seem to have run into something that is keeping the rudder from quite getting there. Can't seem to figure out exactly what that is yet (which is what caused me to draw out the geometry and start pulling what little is left of my hair out) but that brought up the question...if indeed my calculations are correct and I need the 45 degree stop can I actually get the rudder to move that far? Anybody had a problem getting your rudder to bump up against the stop (assuming you needed that much angle on the stop)? Thanks for the help. Dean Psiropoulos RV-6A N197DM TMX-360 in test cell this week. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Pledge?
Date: Jun 28, 2004
From: "Rabaut, Chuck" <Chuck.Rabaut(at)fresnosheriff.org>
I'll second the Plexus. Comes in an aerosal can, costs an arm & a leg, doesn't smell as good as Lemon Pledge, but does a good cleanin' job. So good in fact, I can't remember what I use to use (5+ years ago). Chuck -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Stein Bruch Subject: RE: RV-List: Pledge? I've been using Plexus for some years now, used by the Heli guys on those huge bubbles and used by the Biz Jet folks on thier windows to. Not cheap, but does a really nice job. Cheers, Stein Bruch RV6's, Minneapolis -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry Bowen Subject: RV-List: Pledge? Is lemon pledge still the favorite cleaner for the canopy? - Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JusCash(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 28, 2004
Subject: Re: Pledge?
Maybe an "old wives tale," I was told years ago not to use the lemon version because of some reaction with the plastic. Have been using the regular for 20 years with no problem. Cash Copeland RV-6 150hrs and counting Hayward, Ca In a message dated 6/28/2004 6:38:06 AM Pacific Daylight Time, Larry(at)bowenaero.com writes: Is lemon pledge still the favorite cleaner for the canopy? - Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Pledge?
Date: Jun 28, 2004
I tried Pledge on the plexi but was not pleased with the dust it seemed to attract/gather/stuck to it afterward. Instead I use an aviation aerosol foam plexi cleaner - sorry, can't remember the name. I do use a pledge knock-off on the paint. Walgreens sells their store brand in 12 or 16-ounce cans. you can catch them on sale periodically for $1 each (2 for $1.99). Bryan Jones -8 www.LoneStarSquadron.com Houston, Texas > >Is lemon pledge still the favorite cleaner for the canopy? > >- >Larry Bowen >Larry(at)BowenAero.com >http://BowenAero.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 28, 2004
From: linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Pledge?
JusCash(at)aol.com wrote: > >Maybe an "old wives tale," I was told years ago not to use the lemon version >because of some reaction with the plastic. Have been using the regular for 20 >years with no problem. > >Cash Copeland >RV-6 150hrs and counting >Hayward, Ca > You don't want to use anything with ammonia in it. Like Windex etc. Haven't heard anything against the 'lemon' .... which may nt be real anyway!!! Linn > >In a message dated 6/28/2004 6:38:06 AM Pacific Daylight Time, >Larry(at)bowenaero.com writes: > >Is lemon pledge still the favorite cleaner for the canopy? > >- >Larry Bowen >Larry(at)BowenAero.com >http://BowenAero.com > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Anglin" <jlanglin44(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Olympia to Arlington Route Suggestions
Date: Jun 28, 2004
Get yourself a Seattle Sectional and Terminal Chart. You can go east from there and then go north up the east side of the Seattle area using the charts to avoid Class B and military areas (my favorite), or you can go north from there and cross the Sound north of Arlington avoiding military space and TFRs. Entering the Arlington airspace is possible and simple from either way. Get the directions from the NWEAA website. Jim ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> Subject: RV-List: Olympia to Arlington Route Suggestions > > I am planning my flight to Arlington for the 9th and would like some > suggestions from local flyers. I will be in a meeting the morning of > the 9th in Olympia, WA and will be heading to Arlington around 1pm. I > am IFR capable and am wondering what the best route to Arlington may be. > I have the NOTAM and all the other info from the website. > > Ross Mickey > N9PT > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV4WGH(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 28, 2004
Subject: Re: RV-List Digest: 10 Msgs - 06/27/04
In a message dated 6/28/2004 2:00:08 AM Central Standard Time, rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes: >> snip... I did find a pro in a local Antique Auto restoration shop who was quite competent in metal fabrication and repair and on aluminum and steel. He removed my dent in 15 minutes with a body hammer and a dolly. You can not tell, even under close examination, that the leading edge was damaged ... end snip Our flying club had a Beech Sundowner with the same problem. Our mechanic counted 150 dents in both leading edges! Two of our memberes, both CFI's were landing in Central Wisconsin late on an October evening when they suddenly were "IFR" in a flock of Starlings. Our mechanic had a friend who worked in the body shop of the local Chevy dealer who was able to remove over 80% of the dents with a single "educated" tap with a small hammer! VERY little bondo was necessary. I think at that time that the leading edge which is a "D" section was $4000 each if I remember correctly. Two CFI"s were very lucky to have maintained control as they were on final apprach at the time. Wally Hunt Rockford, IL ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Nick Gaglia <ngaglia(at)calpine.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List Digest: Control Stick S- bending
Date: Jun 28, 2004
I recall reading about a guy that offered a service of S- bending control sticks for RV-8's But I can't find it Can anyone give a link Nick in Livermore ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com>
Subject: Re: Pledge?
Date: Jun 28, 2004
Is there anything you like using other then paper towels to clean your canopy? I'd like to find something less likely to scratch and disposable so I can pitch it after one use... Thanks! ----- Original Message ----- From: "linn walters" <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Pledge? > > JusCash(at)aol.com wrote: > > > > >Maybe an "old wives tale," I was told years ago not to use the lemon version > >because of some reaction with the plastic. Have been using the regular for 20 > >years with no problem. > > > >Cash Copeland > >RV-6 150hrs and counting > >Hayward, Ca > > > You don't want to use anything with ammonia in it. Like Windex etc. > Haven't heard anything against the 'lemon' .... which may nt be real > anyway!!! > Linn > > > > >In a message dated 6/28/2004 6:38:06 AM Pacific Daylight Time, > >Larry(at)bowenaero.com writes: > > > >Is lemon pledge still the favorite cleaner for the canopy? > > > >- > >Larry Bowen > >Larry(at)BowenAero.com > >http://BowenAero.com > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Subject: Re: Pledge?
Date: Jun 28, 2004
Not sure about paper towels that you could use safely. I used to keep a ziploc bag with a soft cloth in it (too keep dirt out of the cloth) and a can of Plexus. The cloth could be used over and over again, and washed occasionally. Or, you can buy a package of them (I purchased the yellow ones at an autopart store). Use one (keep it away from dirt, i.e. a ziploc bag) for a while, then discard and move on to the next. You might buy 2 or 3 packages of these per year. Works great, and won't harm your canopy like paper towels will. Paul Besing RV-6A Sold RV-10 Someday http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software http://www.kitlog.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Pledge? > > Is there anything you like using other then paper towels to clean your > canopy? I'd like to find something less likely to scratch and disposable so > I can pitch it after one use... > > Thanks! > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "linn walters" <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> > To: > Subject: Re: RV-List: Pledge? > > > > > > JusCash(at)aol.com wrote: > > > > > > > >Maybe an "old wives tale," I was told years ago not to use the lemon > version > > >because of some reaction with the plastic. Have been using the regular > for 20 > > >years with no problem. > > > > > >Cash Copeland > > >RV-6 150hrs and counting > > >Hayward, Ca > > > > > You don't want to use anything with ammonia in it. Like Windex etc. > > Haven't heard anything against the 'lemon' .... which may nt be real > > anyway!!! > > Linn > > > > > > > >In a message dated 6/28/2004 6:38:06 AM Pacific Daylight Time, > > >Larry(at)bowenaero.com writes: > > > > > >Is lemon pledge still the favorite cleaner for the canopy? > > > > > >- > > >Larry Bowen > > >Larry(at)BowenAero.com > > >http://BowenAero.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo(at)verizon.net>
"Rocket List" , "RV List"
Subject: APV - Apple Valley, California Open House
Date: Jun 28, 2004
Everybody, The Apple Valley Air Fair is being reduced this year to an "open house - fly in". Money and politics have caused a reduction in this years event. Anyway, the initial planning has started and everybody is invited to fly in for the pancake breakfast. It is looking like the breakfast will be free for those that fly in (more on than later and it is not in concrete yet). So put October 9, 2004 from 9:00 AM to 3:00 PM, breakfast from 9:00 to 11:00 AM, on your calendar. Come to the high desert and enjoy our beautiful blue skies, warn weather, good food, and comradeship. Multiple low approaches on arrival and departure will be encouraged. There will be NO waived airspace but safety is paramount. People Choice Awards will be given to the planes, cars, etc that the attendees vote for. So plan on coming and having a good time. More details will be posted as they become available. Tom "The Fired Air Boss" Gummo Apple Valley, CA Harmon Rocket-II http://mysite.verizon.net/t.gummo/index.html ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 28, 2004
From: SportAV8R(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: Pledge?
The yellow flannel rags from Wal Mart and Auto Zone are good for this job; stay away from the microfiber ones; they feel soft to the touch but they will scratch your canopy- been there & done that. Ditto on keeping them uncontaminated in a plastic bag; but, why not wash and reuse them? I toss mine in the laundry and they are good for dozens of uses. -Stormy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Pledge?
Date: Jun 28, 2004
> > > The yellow flannel rags from Wal Mart and Auto Zone are good > for this job; stay away from the microfiber ones; they feel > soft to the touch but they will scratch your canopy- been > there & done that. > > Ditto on keeping them uncontaminated in a plastic bag; but, > why not wash and reuse them? I toss mine in the laundry and > they are good for dozens of uses. > > -Stormy I bought a pack of the yellow cotton cloths at WalMart three years ago, I've washed them several times. Just be sure not to put anything else in the wash that you don't want yellow. In the summer, I keep a bundle of them in the plane. Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN RV6-A N66AP 489 hours http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gordon and Marge" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com>
Subject: Pledge?
Date: Jun 28, 2004
-----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Burton Subject: Re: RV-List: Pledge? Is there anything you like using other then paper towels to clean your canopy? I'd like to find something less likely to scratch and disposable so I can pitch it after one use... Thanks! I suggest you not use paper in any form on a canopy. Water and bare hands (if clean) work well but are not always practical. My canopy accumulates enough bugs and dirt that I don't reuse any cloth. Plain cotton T-shirt material with a good cleaner works very well. Use the cloth once and throw it in the laundry. There are several good cleaners available but I like Brillianize best. It can be sprayed on in sufficient volume to soften bugs and leaves a polished surface. It can be bought in gallon bottles and transferred to a small spritzer bottle. Gordon Comfort N363GC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "sportpilot" <sportpilot(at)moneypit.com>
Subject: Re: Pledge?
Date: Jun 28, 2004
anyone used RainX to keep it slippery ? or does that harm it.. ? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gordon and Marge" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> Subject: RE: RV-List: Pledge? > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Burton > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: Pledge? > > > Is there anything you like using other then paper towels to clean your > canopy? I'd like to find something less likely to scratch and > disposable so I can pitch it after one use... > > Thanks! > > I suggest you not use paper in any form on a canopy. Water and bare > hands (if clean) work well but are not always practical. My canopy > accumulates enough bugs and dirt that I don't reuse any cloth. Plain > cotton T-shirt material with a good cleaner works very well. Use the > cloth once and throw it in the laundry. There are several good cleaners > available but I like Brillianize best. It can be sprayed on in > sufficient volume to soften bugs and leaves a polished surface. It can > be bought in gallon bottles and transferred to a small spritzer bottle. > > Gordon Comfort > N363GC > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 28, 2004
Subject: Re: Pledge?
In a message dated 6/28/2004 8:43:53 PM Pacific Daylight Time, sportpilot(at)moneypit.com writes: anyone used RainX to keep it slippery ? ====================================== If memory serves, RainX is a silicone grease dissolved in an isopropanol solvent, so it should be okay on the acrylic every once in a while. I sure like it on auto glass. GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 703 hrs) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Pledge?
Date: Jun 28, 2004
> anyone used RainX to keep it slippery ? > > or does that harm it.. ? > I have heard that it doesn't harm plexi, but... I did a test. I put RainX on the left half of my 6A windscreen, and nothing on the right side. I then found a little rain to fly through and discovered absolutely no difference between the two halves. There are people who swear by it, but do the side by side test. Works wonders on my auto windshield, does nothing on the plexi. Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN RV6-A N66AP 489 hours http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ned Thomas" <923te(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Pledge?
Date: Jun 28, 2004
I called RainX. They said not to use it on pleiglass that it may cause crazing, cracking and yellowing. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> Subject: RE: RV-List: Pledge? > > > > anyone used RainX to keep it slippery ? > > > > or does that harm it.. ? > > > > I have heard that it doesn't harm plexi, but... I did a test. I put > RainX on the left half of my 6A windscreen, and nothing on the right > side. I then found a little rain to fly through and discovered > absolutely no difference between the two halves. There are people who > swear by it, but do the side by side test. Works wonders on my auto > windshield, does nothing on the plexi. > > Alex Peterson > Maple Grove, MN > RV6-A N66AP 489 hours > http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/ > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 28, 2004
From: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson(at)consolidated.net>
Subject: Re: Pledge?
Alex Peterson wrote: > > > anyone used RainX to keep it slippery ? > > > > or does that harm it.. ? > > > > I have heard that it doesn't harm plexi, but... I did a test. I put > RainX on the left half of my 6A windscreen, and nothing on the right > side. I then found a little rain to fly through and discovered > absolutely no difference between the two halves. There are people who > swear by it, but do the side by side test. Works wonders on my auto > windshield, does nothing on the plexi. > > Alex Peterson > Maple Grove, MN > RV6-A N66AP 489 hours Works great on a Harley Plexi windshield... Must be the speed....... Phil in Illinois ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com>
Subject: Pledge?
Date: Jun 29, 2004
I went to my local fabic store and asked for the softest fabric they had. I got a couple of yards of flanel very cheap. Well worth it. Brian Kraut Engineering Alternatives, Inc. www.engalt.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of David Burton Subject: Re: RV-List: Pledge? Is there anything you like using other then paper towels to clean your canopy? I'd like to find something less likely to scratch and disposable so I can pitch it after one use... Thanks! ----- Original Message ----- From: "linn walters" <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Pledge? > > JusCash(at)aol.com wrote: > > > > >Maybe an "old wives tale," I was told years ago not to use the lemon version > >because of some reaction with the plastic. Have been using the regular for 20 > >years with no problem. > > > >Cash Copeland > >RV-6 150hrs and counting > >Hayward, Ca > > > You don't want to use anything with ammonia in it. Like Windex etc. > Haven't heard anything against the 'lemon' .... which may nt be real > anyway!!! > Linn > > > > >In a message dated 6/28/2004 6:38:06 AM Pacific Daylight Time, > >Larry(at)bowenaero.com writes: > > > >Is lemon pledge still the favorite cleaner for the canopy? > > > >- > >Larry Bowen > >Larry(at)BowenAero.com > >http://BowenAero.com > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 29, 2004
From: linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Pledge?
David Burton wrote: > >Is there anything you like using other then paper towels to clean your >canopy? > Never, ever, use paper towels to clean your windshield! It's a tree!!! Baby diapers work very well ..... use 'em and wash 'em. Any soft cloth will be OK for your windshield. Linn > I'd like to find something less likely to scratch and disposable so >I can pitch it after one use... > Well, the baby diapers aren't really disposable ..... but if it's disposable, it's probably rougher than a cob. > >Thanks! > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "linn walters" <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> >To: >Subject: Re: RV-List: Pledge? > > > > >> >>JusCash(at)aol.com wrote: >> >> >> >>> >>>Maybe an "old wives tale," I was told years ago not to use the lemon >>> >>> >version > > >>>because of some reaction with the plastic. Have been using the regular >>> >>> >for 20 > > >>>years with no problem. >>> >>>Cash Copeland >>>RV-6 150hrs and counting >>>Hayward, Ca >>> >>> >>> >>You don't want to use anything with ammonia in it. Like Windex etc. >>Haven't heard anything against the 'lemon' .... which may nt be real >>anyway!!! >>Linn >> >> >> >>>In a message dated 6/28/2004 6:38:06 AM Pacific Daylight Time, >>>Larry(at)bowenaero.com writes: >>> >>>Is lemon pledge still the favorite cleaner for the canopy? >>> >>>- >>>Larry Bowen >>>Larry(at)BowenAero.com >>>http://BowenAero.com >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us>
"'owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com '"(at)matronics.com
Subject: dent
Date: Jun 29, 2004
call Kent White in grass valley CA area. Best aluminum man in the US and possibly the world. Goes by the trade name of "The Tin Man" and has a web page for his classes. http://www.tinmantech.com/ Tell him I sent you and he'll probably give you the special deal, one for the price of two... The one time I had to do this type of repair due to a flock of birds strike I had to add an access panel hole, put in a doubler, fixed the other dents and cherry maxed the hole/cover closed. AC 41.13 gives you criteria for structural skin repairs. W ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us>
"'owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com '"(at)matronics.com
Subject: ignition problem
Date: Jun 29, 2004
It could still be a bad lead or rotor switch. Sparking in ambient pressure is easy to do, but driving the spark under compression is hard. It could be leaking to ground under these conditions but work fine when sparking to one's tounge. Could also be a problem with the primary coil, or the magentic rotor getting weak and this lead is the one that is the highest resistance so its failing first. W ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us>
"'owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com '"(at)matronics.com
Subject: h2o/oil/lycomings
Date: Jun 29, 2004
Tracy, If I remember right most lycs take temp pre oil cooler at the vernatherm bypass valve. W ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us>
"'owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com '"(at)matronics.com
Subject: garmin 300
Date: Jun 29, 2004
Jim, if the unit is using a wire for left and one for right along with the normal grounding system then it is most likely an analog output. 150 mV for full deflection left or right Do any of the setup pages in the 300 allow one to select input/output data types for the serial lines? Again, without the 300 install manual this is hard to tell, but you can get a manual probably online if you call garmin tech support, they'll give you the url. The users manual won't give you this info, its got to be the install manual. W ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PSILeD(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 29, 2004
Subject: Re: RE: RV-List Digest: Control Stick S- bending
try _www.rvwoody.com_ (http://www.rvwoody.com) name is Todd Rudberg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us>
"'owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com '"(at)matronics.com
Subject: Rudder stops
Date: Jun 29, 2004
Dean, who cares what the angle one the stop is. If you position it fwd the rudder travel will increase, if you move aft it will decrease. Note two, the data in the plans is a little weak, they give a rudder travel of 30 to 35 deg each way. 35 is too much if you don't have the training wheel in front as the rudder needs to stop before unlocking the real pilot's lockable tailwheel. This unlocking occurs with the tailwheel at about 35 degrees and should only happen when one gives full rudder deflection at 30 degs and then some brake to stretch the springs a little. W 4 days before I leave for AWO, OSH and the other 45 states. Starting to get excited here... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PGLong(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 29, 2004
Subject: Re: Pledge?
The cleaner I prefer to use is Permatex Plastic Cleaner # 403D available at your local automotive store. It's a polish and cleaner and easy to work with. Pat Long PGLong(at)aol.com N120PL RV-4 Bay City, Michigan 3CM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ronschreck99(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 29, 2004
Subject: Oil Cooler
Anybody have experience with the Positech 4215 oil cooler offered by Van's? Alternatively, what is the Stuart Warner cooler best suited to an IO-360 in a souther climate? Thanks for the insight. Ron Schreck RV-8 Gold Hill Airpark, NC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Walker" <ron(at)walker.net>
Subject: Re: Oil Cooler
Date: Jun 29, 2004
I've been told my many a builder here in Texas that for the IO-360, go with the Stuart Warner- it's a better design internally that allows more oil to evenly pass through the cooling fins. I believe Dan C went with the Vans supplied unit at first but has since switched to the SW cooler for this very reason. Ron ----- Original Message ----- From: <Ronschreck99(at)aol.com> Subject: RV-List: Oil Cooler > > Anybody have experience with the Positech 4215 oil cooler offered by Van's? > Alternatively, what is the Stuart Warner cooler best suited to an IO-360 in a > souther climate? Thanks for the insight. > > > Ron Schreck > RV-8 > Gold Hill Airpark, NC > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Oil Cooler
Date: Jun 29, 2004
Ron, We have the Positech Oil cooler mounted to the rear baffle and it works very well on our 200hp IO360. We was a problem with the early units (about 4 years ago) but the manufacturer modified the design to prevent air damming and replaced our used one with the new one at N/C. Very good customer support. Chuck Rowbotham RV-8A (300 hrs) >From: "Ron Walker" <ron(at)walker.net> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Cooler >Date: Tue, 29 Jun 2004 06:56:18 -0500 > > >I've been told my many a builder here in Texas that for the IO-360, go with >the Stuart Warner- it's a better design internally that allows more oil to >evenly pass through the cooling fins. I believe Dan C went with the Vans >supplied unit at first but has since switched to the SW cooler for this >very >reason. > >Ron > >----- Original Message ----- >From: <Ronschreck99(at)aol.com> >To: >Subject: RV-List: Oil Cooler > > > > > > Anybody have experience with the Positech 4215 oil cooler offered by >Van's? > > Alternatively, what is the Stuart Warner cooler best suited to an IO-360 >in a > > souther climate? Thanks for the insight. > > > > > > Ron Schreck > > RV-8 > > Gold Hill Airpark, NC > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Pledge? Cleaning cloth
Date: Jun 29, 2004
I was once told by a retired optometrist that the best way to clean plastic was as follows: 1. wash with water (flush away the loose dust and dirt) 2. use cleaner approved for the plastic 3. wipe the plastic surface once with clean 100% cotton terri cloth 4. turn over same clean cloth and wipe dry Works pretty good for me, even though I don't always do step 1 myself. The thought process on terri cloth is that it captures the abrasive things (dirt, bug parts...) in the folds of the cloth and doesn't keep grinding them into the plastic, scratching the surface. Bryan Jones -8 www.LoneStarSquadron.com Houston, Texas ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Great Interior Work
Date: Jun 29, 2004
I wanted you get you here with that subject line. No, I am not like the Wendy's man and "unofficially" associated with Abby at Flightline Interiors, http://my.execpc.com/~erdmannb/ but I do have a big mouth and have a tendency to speak my mine:-) and if it's nice I'll tell ya. I received my interior from Abby yesterday. Let's put it this way, I'm going to have to increase my level of workmanship to match the quality of the work I unboxed yesterday!! If you are in the market for an interior, my recommendation is contract Abby at the above site or call 262-679-5934. I'm not discrediting any other interior provider, I am just at a loss for words on how great Abby's work is. A little history, as most you you know I went off the deep end and went with Imron black as my paint color. It seems the black airplane took on a life of it's own and progressed to having a carbon fiber panel, as much glass as possible in the panel including a 7" DVD screen for the passenger, gold powder coated rotary engine http://rvflying.tripod.com/goldengine.jpg, rocket tinted canopy and a bunch of other little do-dads. Well, a name had to be decided on so Black Magic was it with Mickey's little wizard hat reproduced as a 3" gold replication on the VS. Now, here is where it gets fun. I relayed this theme and interior desires to Abby by way of the phone. She was wanting to get more into custom interiors in addition to "normal" interior work. Once again, some will consider my path somewhat on the trailing edge of normal:-) Several ideas were bounces back and forth until a final idea was decided upon. Abby then took this idea and ran with it. I wanted the Black Magic theme to be somewhat discreet, this was achieved. Here is a pic of the passenger side panel http://rvflying.tripod.com/interior1.jpg In keeping with the gold trim here is the baggage compartment rear cover with tonneau cover http://rvflying.tripod.com/interior2.jpg progressing to the pilot side side panel http://rvflying.tripod.com/interior3.jpg The pictures make the stitching stand out much more than it really is. As you can see, the starburst comes out of the finger, does a couple loops across the seat backs and disappears into the palm. Way too cool in my book!! Folks, Abby doesn't have creativity cornered but she sure know where the corner is. As I count the interior panels, I see over 30 individual panels to install using 3M 77. Each panel is cut and numbered for easy install. No alum will be seen anywhere inside the cockpit, forward fuselage or baggage compartment including the rudder motor housing and seat back brace. The attention to detail is so obvious, it's incredible. Look at the cutout for the fuselage vertical member on the side of the tonneau cover http://rvflying.tripod.com/interior4.jpg This is the panel just forward of the spar carrythough on the pilots side...........nice pen holder http://rvflying.tripod.com/interior5.jpg This pic shows just what I mean about the attention to detail http://rvflying.tripod.com/interior6.jpg This is the pic of the lower baggage compartment panel. On the top you see the very small cutout for wrapping it around the vertical support, on the top front you see the cutout to wrap it under the armrest and in front of the seat back support vertical post. About 1/2 way down is the round cutout for the rudder cable and the bottom cutout is for the flap weldment. This is just one example of the quality of Abby's work. Folks, if you are in the market for an interior you need to do yourself a favor and check out Abby's website. It is worth the look!! You can certainly criticize my choices:-) but you can't Flightline Interior's work. Dana Overall Richmond, KY i39 RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic" Finish kit 13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon. http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Oshkosh campers notice
Date: Jun 29, 2004
From: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Just saw a note on the EAA site that the Piggly Wiggly off the west end of 9/27 has closed. Plan on a longer hike for groceries if you were counting on it. Regards, Greg Young - Houston (DWH) RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 29, 2004
From: RV8ter(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: Oil Cooler
Which oil cooler number from Van's catalogue did you use? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Smcm75(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 29, 2004
Subject: Navy T-34 color schemes
Guys: I am going to painting my RV-6A in a navy T-34 paint scheme> I understand that there were quite a few that were utilized during the operation life of the aircraft. Do any of you out there know where I can obtain color photos of the various color schemes preferably on the web if possible. I appreciate an help you guys can provide. Scott Morrow RV-6A just about there! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BGCrook(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 29, 2004
Subject: Re: Navy T-34 color schemes
Try Scale Model Research or Bob's Aircraft Documentation. They provide scale documentation for models, however, I'm sure they would have documentation on just about any color scheme that ever existed. http://www.bobsairdoc.com/ Scale Model Reserach (714) 979-8058 Bryon Crook -7 wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 29, 2004
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: Navy T-34 color schemes
http://www.t-34.com/ > >Try Scale Model Research or Bob's Aircraft Documentation. They provide scale >documentation for models, however, I'm sure they would have documentation on >just about any color scheme that ever existed. > >http://www.bobsairdoc.com/ > >Scale Model Reserach >(714) 979-8058 > >Bryon Crook >-7 wings > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net>
Subject: Re: Navy T-34 color schemes
Date: Jun 29, 2004
If you happen to be going to OSH, look for the T-34 owned by a fellow named Dave Holt. It has a big "DH" on the vertical stab. It was built over the last couple of years by Dave Miller (The best airplane craftsman I have ever met) Painted in marine corps blue with yellow and red details. It is sure to make a big splash this year at OSH. If you meet him please compliment him on the mirror finish firewall. It is really cool and adds a lot of depth to the engine compartment........and I had the privilege of building it. :) Really a spectacular airplane.....Dave Miller has been a winner in the past at OSH and this project will show you why. It really is a special airplane...... Evan ----- Original Message ----- From: <Smcm75(at)aol.com> Subject: RV-List: Navy T-34 color schemes > > Guys: > > I am going to painting my RV-6A in a navy T-34 paint scheme> I understand > that there were quite a few that were utilized during the operation life of the > aircraft. Do any of you out there know where I can obtain color photos of the > various color schemes preferably on the web if possible. > > I appreciate an help you guys can provide. > > Scott Morrow > RV-6A just about there! > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Hyde" <nauga(at)brick.net>
Subject: re: ignition problem
Date: Jun 29, 2004
Wheeler North wrote: > It could still be a bad lead or rotor switch... Well, Unison overnighted a new harness and I installed it today. No change, #3 still doesn't fire on the right mag, whether the lead is on the top or bottom plug. We'll see if they'll fork over a new mag. If that doesn't work I'm tempted to see if a bullet through the block helps. I now think that this problem has been going on since first flight. #3 always ran rough on the right mag. Several knowlegable people attributed it to (a) cylinders not being broken in, and/or (b) an intake leak. It wasn't until last week, when #3 stopped firing at all on the right mag, that I started snooping around the ignition system. I figured that with new mags and a harness that that would be the *last* thing to go bad. I hope I was wrong then and right now, 'cause if it ain't the mag no one here knows what to do next. Dave Hyde nauga(at)brick.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Smcm75(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 29, 2004
Subject: Re: Navy T-34 color schemes
In a message dated 6/29/04 6:10:19 PM Eastern Daylight Time, BGCrook(at)aol.com writes: > > Try Scale Model Research or Bob's Aircraft Documentation. They provide scale > > documentation for models, however, I'm sure they would have documentation on > > just about any color scheme that ever existed. > > http://www.bobsairdoc.com/ > > Scale Model Reserach > (714) 979-8058 > > Bryon Crook > -7 wings > > Thanks for your help. You guys are great! Scott Morrow ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Smcm75(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 29, 2004
Subject: Re: Navy T-34 color schemes
In a message dated 6/29/04 6:40:09 PM Eastern Daylight Time, bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com writes: > > http://www.t-34.com/ > > > > > >Try Scale Model Research or Bob's Aircraft Documentation. They provide > scale > >documentation for models, however, I'm sure they would have documentation > on > >just about any color scheme that ever existed. > > > >http://www.bobsairdoc.com/ > > > >Scale Model Reserach > >(714) 979-8058 > > > >Bryon Crook > >-7 wings > > > > > > > Thanks I really appreciate your help. Scott Morrow ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com>
Subject: re: ignition problem
Date: Jun 29, 2004
Could be a cracked distributor block in the mag or flashover and a carbon trail. It is fairly easy to open a Slick mag and check it. Be sure you know the procedure for timing it when you put it back together though! I assume you have already eliminaed the plug as a suspect? Brian Kraut Engineering Alternatives, Inc. www.engalt.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dave Hyde Subject: RV-List: re: ignition problem Wheeler North wrote: > It could still be a bad lead or rotor switch... Well, Unison overnighted a new harness and I installed it today. No change, #3 still doesn't fire on the right mag, whether the lead is on the top or bottom plug. We'll see if they'll fork over a new mag. If that doesn't work I'm tempted to see if a bullet through the block helps. I now think that this problem has been going on since first flight. #3 always ran rough on the right mag. Several knowlegable people attributed it to (a) cylinders not being broken in, and/or (b) an intake leak. It wasn't until last week, when #3 stopped firing at all on the right mag, that I started snooping around the ignition system. I figured that with new mags and a harness that that would be the *last* thing to go bad. I hope I was wrong then and right now, 'cause if it ain't the mag no one here knows what to do next. Dave Hyde nauga(at)brick.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net>
Subject: Care of plexiglass
Date: Jun 29, 2004
What has worked best for me over the years is the following. Use only flannel cloth ( ripped old bed sheet into sixteen inch squares) then store them in a plastic bag. If wind screen (canopy) is dusty (stored for awhile) rinse off with water without touching the plexi by (spraying or pouring water over it. Then with a piece of clean flannel soaked in slightly soapy water and partially wrung out, take it by two corners and drag it full width over the plexi without any pressure on it, turn it over and do it a second time then put the flannel in a plastic bag to washing. If there are bugs take another clean cloth soaked in the soapy water gently clean them off. Put this cloth in the bag for washing. I have used Mirror Glaze for around forty years and would use nothing else, recently a friend asked me to try some Plexus and found it to be a good product. Again taking another clean cloth spray on the cleaner and wipe dry, another cloth for the laundry bag. This may sound a bit like over- kill but it is the only way I could be sure of not winding up with some scratches. I have flown many aircraft that had scratched plexi and found that by using Mirror Glaze all but the worst scratches would eventually disappear. If the canopy is new and scratch free the Plexus will sure do the job and is quicker to use. Anyway the whole idea is prevent getting any scratches in the first place and the only way I have been able to do that is not rub with any gritty stuff on the plexi. Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C. Eustace Bowhay ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Oldsfolks(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 29, 2004
Subject: Re:ignition problem
Brian has the right idea. I had a problem with a Bendix mag where the distributor block had an arc path from center to one wire lug. It made a bad situation until I disassembled the mag and found it. About $ 100 for a new distributor block and it has been OK since then. Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor Charleston,Arkansas Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Aileron Pushrod Substitute For an RV-7A
Date: Jun 29, 2004
I'm finishing off my wings and I've put off a heinous job that I struggled with early on. The standard aileron pushrod is this powder coat rod that you cut then place the fitting in the end, drill 4 holes through the pushrod and fitting then rivet it. No matter what I do I keep screwing up these rivets. I would just weld the fitting and be done with it and forget about the rivets but I was wondering if there is an alternative pushrod I could use that doesn't require welding or riveting. Thanks, Karie Daniel RV-7A Sammamish, WA BTW..... If there is someone out there planning on flying from Seattle to Oshkosh solo and would like some company and someone to share the flying and gas give me a shout. I'd like to go and I'm flexible on time. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Subject: 48 States Report
Date: Jun 29, 2004
Folks, you are on this distribution list because I thought you might like to recieve updates from me on the trip I am about to start. If you do not wish to recieve these please pop me a note and I'll drop you off the list. The current plan has me at T minus 3 days, with launch on this Friday morning. First stop is Minden NV, then Scapoose Oregon. If time permits I will continue on to Arlington WA that day, or else I'll pop over to Vernonia for the night. I'm supposed to be on the setup crew for the NWEAA flyin from 7.3-7.11, I'll be in that area for the week so would love to drop by and visit if any of you local to the area are going to be around. After the flyin the plan is to head east until Maine goes by, then south until Florida appears, then back west until Texas, then up the Mississippi to Oshkosh for the big flyin, and then zigzag back to San Diego in early August, thereby landing in every state in the lower 48. Obviously the weather will help plan my route so it isn't too firm right now. But my plan is to post an update daily, as time permits. Again, if this is too much email for you, reply and I'll take you out of the loop, as I am certainly sensitive to too much email. I won''t be posting pictures other than to a website, if I get a land line connection as the cell connection is somewhat too slow for picture uploads. I'll probably send the next note out Thursday night just before I get on the road. ta ta for now Wheeler ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 30, 2004
From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: 48 States Report
Wheeler North wrote: > >Folks, > >you are on this distribution list because I thought you might like to >recieve updates from me on the trip I am about to start. > >If you do not wish to recieve these please pop me a note and I'll drop you >off the list. > >The current plan has me at T minus 3 days, with launch on this Friday >morning. > >First stop is Minden NV, then Scapoose Oregon. If time permits I will >continue on to Arlington WA that day, or else I'll pop over to Vernonia for >the night. I'm supposed to be on the setup crew for the NWEAA flyin from >7.3-7.11, I'll be in that area for the week so would love to drop by and >visit if any of you local to the area are going to be around. > > > Wheeler what is the N# of your airplane so we can look you up at Arlington? Jerry Springer ( N906GS) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Care of plexiglass
Date: Jun 30, 2004
Is this the Meguiars Mirror Glaze or another brand? Jerry Calvert Edmond Ok RV6 N296JC ----- Original Message ----- From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> Subject: RV-List: Care of plexiglass > > What has worked best for me over the years is the following. > > Use only flannel cloth ( ripped old bed sheet into sixteen inch squares) then store them in a plastic bag. > > If wind screen (canopy) is dusty (stored for awhile) rinse off with water without touching the plexi by (spraying or pouring water over it. Then with a piece of clean flannel soaked in slightly soapy water and partially wrung out, take it by two corners and drag it full width over the plexi without any pressure on it, turn it over and do it a second time then put the flannel in a plastic bag to washing. > > If there are bugs take another clean cloth soaked in the soapy water gently clean them off. Put this cloth in the bag for washing. > > I have used Mirror Glaze for around forty years and would use nothing else, recently a friend asked me to try some Plexus and found it to be a good product. Again taking another clean cloth spray on the cleaner and wipe dry, another cloth for the laundry bag. > > This may sound a bit like over- kill but it is the only way I could be sure of not winding up with some scratches. > > I have flown many aircraft that had scratched plexi and found that by using Mirror Glaze all but the worst scratches would eventually disappear. > > If the canopy is new and scratch free the Plexus will sure do the job and is quicker to use. > > Anyway the whole idea is prevent getting any scratches in the first place and the only way I have been able to do that is not rub with any gritty stuff on the plexi. > > Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C. > > Eustace Bowhay > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Trampas" <tstern(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Van's Capacitive Fuel level sensors
Date: Jun 30, 2004
Does anyone know of a company which sells an adapter circuit for the Van's capacitive fuel level sensors? For my application it does not matter if the sensor outputs a frequency or a voltage. Thanks Trampas ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: Van's Capacitive Fuel level sensors
Date: Jun 30, 2004
You might consider calling Advanced Control Systems (http://www.advanced-control-systems.com). I doubt they'd distribute just the adapters if you're not buying the ACS2002 system. The adapters they use come from Princeton Electronics. You can contact Todd at Princeton at 616-281-5193. Best of luck, )_( Dan RV-7 N714D http://www.rvproject.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Trampas" <tstern(at)nc.rr.com> Subject: RV-List: Van's Capacitive Fuel level sensors > > Does anyone know of a company which sells an adapter circuit for the Van's > capacitive fuel level sensors? For my application it does not matter if the > sensor outputs a frequency or a voltage. > > Thanks > Trampas > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 30, 2004
From: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: 48 States Report
Wheeler, How far down the Florida peninsula do you plan to go? I'm in Boca Raton (in Palm Beach County on the SE coast) Let me know if you'll be in the area. Charlie Kuss > >Folks, > >you are on this distribution list because I thought you might like to >recieve updates from me on the trip I am about to start. > >If you do not wish to recieve these please pop me a note and I'll drop you >off the list. > >The current plan has me at T minus 3 days, with launch on this Friday >morning. > >First stop is Minden NV, then Scapoose Oregon. If time permits I will >continue on to Arlington WA that day, or else I'll pop over to Vernonia for >the night. I'm supposed to be on the setup crew for the NWEAA flyin from >7.3-7.11, I'll be in that area for the week so would love to drop by and >visit if any of you local to the area are going to be around. > >After the flyin the plan is to head east until Maine goes by, then south >until Florida appears, then back west until Texas, then up the Mississippi >to Oshkosh for the big flyin, and then zigzag back to San Diego in early >August, thereby landing in every state in the lower 48. > >Obviously the weather will help plan my route so it isn't too firm right >now. But my plan is to post an update daily, as time permits. > >Again, if this is too much email for you, reply and I'll take you out of the >loop, as I am certainly sensitive to too much email. I won''t be posting >pictures other than to a website, if I get a land line connection as the >cell connection is somewhat too slow for picture uploads. > >I'll probably send the next note out Thursday night just before I get on the >road. > >ta ta for now > >Wheeler > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 30, 2004
From: Dj Merrill <deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu>
Subject: Re: 48 States Report
Wheeler North wrote: > After the flyin the plan is to head east until Maine goes by, then south Wave when you go over NH! :-) -Dj ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com>
Subject: Van's Capacitive Fuel level sensors
Date: Jun 30, 2004
Blue Mountain Avionics (bluemountainavionics.com) has one to adapt Van's sensors to their EFIS/one. Terry Does anyone know of a company which sells an adapter circuit for the Van's capacitive fuel level sensors? For my application it does not matter if the sensor outputs a frequency or a voltage. Thanks Trampas ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Lwfeatherston(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 30, 2004
Subject: Re: 48 States Report
Hi Wheeler, I think I am on your route. I would love to host you in Southwest Missouri as you pass through. See if Mt Vernon, MO, between Joplin, and Springfield, is on your Texas to OSH route. I have AvGas 100LL, and can hangar you, and feed you. Give me an e-mail with your estimated ETA. Les Featherston 417-466-4663 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 01, 2004
From: "Stan J. Jones" <stan.jones(at)xtra.co.nz>
Subject: Fuel Valve
I am not at all familiar with injected motors. Is there a fuel return line from the motor on an IO 360, and do I need to order one of those fancy fuel valves that Vans sells, ($350), in order to return surplus fuel to the tank, and do I need to plumb up two new fuel lines for that purpose. Stan Jones. N.Z. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: Fuel Valve
Date: Jun 30, 2004
Nope. Plumbing is similar to the O engines, but the Fuel pressure is much higher, necessitating a higher pressure boost pump and engine driven pump. Cheers, Stein Bruch RV6's, Minneapolis. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Stan J. Jones Subject: RV-List: Fuel Valve I am not at all familiar with injected motors. Is there a fuel return line from the motor on an IO 360, and do I need to order one of those fancy fuel valves that Vans sells, ($350), in order to return surplus fuel to the tank, and do I need to plumb up two new fuel lines for that purpose. Stan Jones. N.Z. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Hyde" <nauga(at)brick.net>
Subject: re: ignition problem
Date: Jun 30, 2004
Problem solved. Steve Carter at Unison arranged for me to pick up a new mag at a nearby parts shop. Installed it this evening and the engine runs great. I'd love to know what was going on in there, but the mag is still under warranty so I'm not going to crack the case. Troubleshooting was extremely frustrating, but Unison bent over backwards to help, and as far as I'm concerned more than made up for the troubles. Dave Hyde nauga(at)brick.net RV-4 in flight test, EAA tech counselor ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JusCash(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 30, 2004
Subject: Re: re: ignition problem
There is a really good article in the July 2004 Aviation Consumer about Slick and Bendix magnetos. Cash Copeland In a message dated 6/30/2004 6:23:25 PM Pacific Daylight Time, nauga(at)brick.net writes: Problem solved. Steve Carter at Unison arranged for me to pick up a new mag at a nearby parts shop. Installed it this evening and the engine runs great. I'd love to know what was going on in there, but the mag is still under warranty so I'm not going to crack the case. Troubleshooting was extremely frustrating, but Unison bent over backwards to help, and as far as I'm concerned more than made up for the troubles. Dave Hyde nauga(at)brick.net RV-4 in flight test, EAA tech counselor ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Oldsfolks(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 30, 2004
Subject: Re:Fuel Valve
You will need a fuel return line to your fuel tank. Mine runs to the left tank. This means that I MUST use fuel from the left tank first. If I fail to select the left tank, when both are full, I will soon overflow the left tank and fuel will be discharged through the left vent line. I'm not familiar with the expensive valve from Vans but it probably just shifts the return line to flow into the same tank you are drawing from. Hope this helps, Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor Charleston,Arkansas Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers ________________________________________________________________________________
From: N223RV(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 30, 2004
Subject: Re: Trutrack alt hold
I couldn't agree with you more. I have the same set up and have had no issues for about100 hours. In fact, if I could only purchase one for the RV, I'd pick the altitude hold over the wings leveler! -Mike Kraus N223RV RV-4 Flying N213RV RV-10 Empennage complete, working on Tailcone ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 30, 2004
From: Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Valve
So to add to all of the different responses... On my RV-8 drawings for the fuel injected plumbing routing, Van's shows a return line running from the Airflow Performance boost bump back to a tee that is mounted on the fuel valve outlet port. This way, the return doesn't have to be run all the way back to the tank and you don't need the expensive valve. Skylor RV-8 QB Under Construction N808SJ Reserved --- "Stan J. Jones" wrote: > > > I am not at all familiar with injected motors. Is > there a fuel return line > from the motor on an IO 360, and do I need to order > one of those fancy fuel > valves that Vans sells, ($350), in order to return > surplus fuel to the tank, > and do I need to plumb up two new fuel lines for > that purpose. > Stan Jones. N.Z. > > > > Contributions > any other > Forums. > > http://www.matronics.com/chat > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > > > > > __________________________________ http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: Re:Fuel Valve
Date: Jun 30, 2004
Hi Bob, What fuel injection system are you using?? Neither the Bendix RSA nor the Airflow Performance system mandates the use of a fuel return line. The only case I'm aware of needing a return line is if using a "purge valve", which in itself is also not a necessity on either system. There are a lot of both Bendix & AFP systems flying without a return type line, nor a purge valve. That being said, if one plans to use a purge valve, then of course some sort of return line would be necessary. Cheers, Stein Bruch RV6's, Minneapolis -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Oldsfolks(at)aol.com Subject: RV-List: Re:Fuel Valve You will need a fuel return line to your fuel tank. Mine runs to the left tank. This means that I MUST use fuel from the left tank first. If I fail to select the left tank, when both are full, I will soon overflow the left tank and fuel will be discharged through the left vent line. I'm not familiar with the expensive valve from Vans but it probably just shifts the return line to flow into the same tank you are drawing from. Hope this helps, Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor Charleston,Arkansas Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net>
Subject: Re: Care of plexiglass
Date: Jun 30, 2004
Hi Jerry: Yes it is Meguiars, they have three products #10-17and18. The one I use is #10. However # 17 would probably be better if there are any scratches. Eustace ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: Care of plexiglass > > Is this the Meguiars Mirror Glaze or another brand? > > Jerry Calvert > Edmond Ok > RV6 N296JC > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> > To: "rv list" > Subject: RV-List: Care of plexiglass > > > > > > What has worked best for me over the years is the following. > > > > Use only flannel cloth ( ripped old bed sheet into sixteen inch squares) > then store them in a plastic bag. > > > > If wind screen (canopy) is dusty (stored for awhile) rinse off with water > without touching the plexi by (spraying or pouring water over it. Then with > a piece of clean flannel soaked in slightly soapy water and partially wrung > out, take it by two corners and drag it full width over the plexi without > any pressure on it, turn it over and do it a second time then put the > flannel in a plastic bag to washing. > > > > If there are bugs take another clean cloth soaked in the soapy water > gently clean them off. Put this cloth in the bag for washing. > > > > I have used Mirror Glaze for around forty years and would use nothing > else, recently a friend asked me to try some Plexus and found it to be a > good product. Again taking another clean cloth spray on the cleaner and wipe > dry, another cloth for the laundry bag. > > > > This may sound a bit like over- kill but it is the only way I could be > sure of not winding up with some scratches. > > > > I have flown many aircraft that had scratched plexi and found that by > using Mirror Glaze all but the worst scratches would eventually disappear. > > > > If the canopy is new and scratch free the Plexus will sure do the job and > is quicker to use. > > > > Anyway the whole idea is prevent getting any scratches in the first place > and the only way I have been able to do that is not rub with any gritty > stuff on the plexi. > > > > Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C. > > > > Eustace Bowhay > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Care of plexiglass
Date: Jun 30, 2004
Although it hasn't been mentioned yet, I learned that to avoid creating scratches that you never, ever, ever wipe or clean plexiglass in a circular motion. Always wipe up and down. I see guys going to town with whatever cleaner as if they were "waxing" the canopy. This is the fastest way to scratch it up. Maybe an old wives tale but that's what the pros say! Karie ----- Original Message ----- From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: Care of plexiglass > > Hi Jerry: > > Yes it is Meguiars, they have three products #10-17and18. The one I use is > #10. However # 17 would probably be better if there are any scratches. > > Eustace > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net> > To: > Subject: Re: RV-List: Care of plexiglass > > > > > > Is this the Meguiars Mirror Glaze or another brand? > > > > Jerry Calvert > > Edmond Ok > > RV6 N296JC > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> > > To: "rv list" > > Subject: RV-List: Care of plexiglass > > > > > > > > > > What has worked best for me over the years is the following. > > > > > > Use only flannel cloth ( ripped old bed sheet into sixteen inch squares) > > then store them in a plastic bag. > > > > > > If wind screen (canopy) is dusty (stored for awhile) rinse off with > water > > without touching the plexi by (spraying or pouring water over it. Then > with > > a piece of clean flannel soaked in slightly soapy water and partially > wrung > > out, take it by two corners and drag it full width over the plexi without > > any pressure on it, turn it over and do it a second time then put the > > flannel in a plastic bag to washing. > > > > > > If there are bugs take another clean cloth soaked in the soapy water > > gently clean them off. Put this cloth in the bag for washing. > > > > > > I have used Mirror Glaze for around forty years and would use nothing > > else, recently a friend asked me to try some Plexus and found it to be a > > good product. Again taking another clean cloth spray on the cleaner and > wipe > > dry, another cloth for the laundry bag. > > > > > > This may sound a bit like over- kill but it is the only way I could be > > sure of not winding up with some scratches. > > > > > > I have flown many aircraft that had scratched plexi and found that by > > using Mirror Glaze all but the worst scratches would eventually disappear. > > > > > > If the canopy is new and scratch free the Plexus will sure do the job > and > > is quicker to use. > > > > > > Anyway the whole idea is prevent getting any scratches in the first > place > > and the only way I have been able to do that is not rub with any gritty > > stuff on the plexi. > > > > > > Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C. > > > > > > Eustace Bowhay > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us>
"'owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com '"(at)matronics.com
Subject: trio report
Date: Jul 01, 2004
Dang it, I just realized my last post didn't delete the entire digest, sorry about that folks. Rule number 47.5, no emails after 12am... Just test flew the upgraded EZ pilot. Most noticable is the analog slip/skid ball(quartz tube with hard ball, fluid and a requisite bubble to which one can try to get it to move across to the other side with various unusual attitudes). Its very sensitive. Pay close attention to getting it into the panel square and level. And its lighted from the panel backlight above it. Can't wait to see it in the dark. Its not only useful but it really makes this instrument look very "styling". The large format TC is way cool, although it took a few minutes after startup to find zero. It worked great in the air though. The rest of the features are as good as ever. The Track Offset Position is accessed directly with the LR sw in course mode. And there are a few slight changes in screen formats and formatability of user data. All in all these guys are putting out a great product, and they are following their market's input desires with timely and useful upgrades. Second note, although I have traditionally not had too much difficulty with oil temps, on a hot Sedona AZ day it will see 230 on a long climb out to 10k and then take its sweet time chilling after level cruise, so I decided to put one of the cool collars on the oil filter. I put a 11/16 hole in the plenum and ran a blast tube pointed at it from about 2" away. Typical temps today would have been about 190-195, but with the cool collar on it ran 170-175. I am way impressed, but, that said, I need to fly it some more and get a better data set on a variety of temp and flying conditions. It is a pain in the backside to get it on the filter though. The RV6 bird cage doesn't leave much room in the back for things like engine accessories. W ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 01, 2004
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Pix of UFO following me!!
A friend of mine and I were doing a dinner run, he had his camera phone and snapped some pictures. We were looking at them on the phone trying to figure out what the spot was. Well after posting them I sure know what it looks like!!!! Go to Pix #5. http://www.vzwpix.com/mlib/Navigate?acl=pHolQDzBC7Y Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List Digest: 25 Msgs - 06/30/04
Date: Jul 01, 2004
> > From: "Stan J. Jones" <stan.jones(at)xtra.co.nz> > Subject: RV-List: Fuel Valve > > > I am not at all familiar with injected motors. Is there a fuel return line > from the motor on an IO 360, and do I need to order one of those fancy fuel > valves that Vans sells, ($350), in order to return surplus fuel to the tank, > and do I need to plumb up two new fuel lines for that purpose. > Stan Jones. N.Z. > > Hi Stan- Here's the deal as I understand it: 1 The fuel injection system itself on the IO 360 does not require a return line to the tank. 2 The electric boost pump does require a bypass line to allow excess output fuel volume to circulate back around to any point upstream of the electric pump. 3 The point of running this return line all the way back to the outlet side of the selector valve is to provide a length of tubing that acts as a radiator. This will help dissipate the heat that was picked up by the fuel while passing through the electric pump. This in turn helps prevent vapor lock during extended use of the electric pump, like when the mechanical pump fails over inhospitable terrain. 4 Finding that particular routing of the return line fairly obnoxious, I elected to bend up an equivalent length of tubing to fit entirely forward of the gear tower and connect it to the inlet side of the AFP filter. This was done with the blessings of all relevant parties. Hope this helps, FWIW, YMMV, Nomex bird cage cover on monitor..... gm ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 01, 2004
From: Gerald McKibben <gmckib(at)ra.msstate.edu>
Subject: TruTrak
I got in late on the discussion of the problems interfacing the TruTrak autopilot with the King KLX 135A. I just ordered one, and the company representative I talked to told me it would work. In the experience of this group, which GPS units WILL work with this autopilot? I also have a Magellan 315, and they told me it should work also. I plan to wire in two GPS sources, switch selectable. Gerald McKibben ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: trio report
Date: Jul 01, 2004
From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net>
Wheeler great report on the new Trio. I am sending mine in after my trip to NM this weekend to get the upgrade. This is one I asked for during my initial tests. And you are right, these guys are great to work with. As a testament to my confidence in them, I just received my servo for my wing of the Super 8. Even thought I am 2 years from flying it, I know this is the unit I want guiding me along. I am very excited about the product and feel privileged to be able to provide input with quick upgrades. Like raising a child. I am a proud Papa. Have a great trip and of course, you have a place to stay in Atlanta. Regards, Mike Stewart 6A flying Super 8 in the womb -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wheeler North '"@matronics.com Subject: RV-List: trio report Dang it, I just realized my last post didn't delete the entire digest, sorry about that folks. Rule number 47.5, no emails after 12am... Just test flew the upgraded EZ pilot. Most noticable is the analog slip/skid ball(quartz tube with hard ball, fluid and a requisite bubble to which one can try to get it to move across to the other side with various unusual attitudes). Its very sensitive. Pay close attention to getting it into the panel square and level. And its lighted from the panel backlight above it. Can't wait to see it in the dark. Its not only useful but it really makes this instrument look very "styling". The large format TC is way cool, although it took a few minutes after startup to find zero. It worked great in the air though. The rest of the features are as good as ever. The Track Offset Position is accessed directly with the LR sw in course mode. And there are a few slight changes in screen formats and formatability of user data. All in all these guys are putting out a great product, and they are following their market's input desires with timely and useful upgrades. Second note, although I have traditionally not had too much difficulty with oil temps, on a hot Sedona AZ day it will see 230 on a long climb out to 10k and then take its sweet time chilling after level cruise, so I decided to put one of the cool collars on the oil filter. I put a 11/16 hole in the plenum and ran a blast tube pointed at it from about 2" away. Typical temps today would have been about 190-195, but with the cool collar on it ran 170-175. I am way impressed, but, that said, I need to fly it some more and get a better data set on a variety of temp and flying conditions. It is a pain in the backside to get it on the filter though. The RV6 bird cage doesn't leave much room in the back for things like engine accessories. W = = = = ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Valve
Date: Jul 01, 2004
Although your particular fuel injection system may not require a fuel return line, you should consider adding a T with a small bleeder hole, say #60 drill size, and a small return line to one tank. This helps prevent hard starting when the hot engine compartment vaporizes fuel in the lines. I'd also consider simplifying the fuel system by eliminating the tank switch and providing a low pressure facet fuel pump to transfer fuel from the other tank as needed. This makes the return tank a single point of failure in the system in case, say, the fuel vent becomes plugged. Overall though, I'd say the reliability is similar to a switched system & you can drain the non-return tank dry without worrying about the engine sputtering when the level gets low. Practically, this decreases unusable fuel.. Dave Reel - RV8A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: trio report
Date: Jul 01, 2004
>Wheeler great report on the new Trio. >I am sending mine in after my trip to NM this weekend to get the >upgrade. This is one I asked for during my initial tests. > Mike, Have a great trip and let me know if you need any info or guidance on ops in New Mexico. I hangar the RV8 at AEG in Albuquerque. Wx forecast for this weekend is severe clear, hot and dry. Go figure. :) Brian Denk RV8 N94BD RV10 '51 tailcone ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Pix of UFO following me!!
Date: Jul 01, 2004
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/9656/akroshomepage.htm >A friend of mine and I were doing a dinner run, he had his camera phone and >snapped some pictures. We were looking at them on the phone trying to >figure out what the spot was. Well after posting them I sure know what it >looks like!!!! Go to Pix #5. > > >http://www.vzwpix.com/mlib/Navigate?acl=pHolQDzBC7Y > > >Scott Bilinski Well, Scott, it does look pretty alien to me. As long as you didn't get "probed", it's no cause for concern! I hear those guys can fly a tight formation and are very good at maintaining radio silence. Why would they want to talk to us anyway? They're probably into composites. Friends don't let friends fly plastic UFO's. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD RV10 '51 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org>
Subject: Pix of UFO following me!!
Date: Jul 01, 2004
Oh! Was that you? Bruce www.glasair.org -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Denk Subject: RE: RV-List: Pix of UFO following me!! http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/9656/akroshomepage.htm >A friend of mine and I were doing a dinner run, he had his camera phone and >snapped some pictures. We were looking at them on the phone trying to >figure out what the spot was. Well after posting them I sure know what it >looks like!!!! Go to Pix #5. > > >http://www.vzwpix.com/mlib/Navigate?acl=pHolQDzBC7Y > > >Scott Bilinski Well, Scott, it does look pretty alien to me. As long as you didn't get "probed", it's no cause for concern! I hear those guys can fly a tight formation and are very good at maintaining radio silence. Why would they want to talk to us anyway? They're probably into composites. Friends don't let friends fly plastic UFO's. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD RV10 '51 = = = = ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor(at)msn.com>
Subject: Trio EZ Pilot
Date: Jul 01, 2004
I just ordered my EZ pilot II from Trio. I would like to mount the servo under the seat in my 6A. If anyone has any installation pictures, instructions and/or advise that they would like to share, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Tommy Walker 6A, finishing Ridgetop, TN ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ted" <ted_french(at)telus.net>
Subject: Trio EZ Pilot
Date: Jul 01, 2004
Take a look at the pictures at : http://www3.telus.net/elfrench/rv6%20no4.html It's for a Navaid but should work in a similiar fashion. Ted French RV-6A 180 hrs -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tommy Walker Subject: RV-List: Trio EZ Pilot I just ordered my EZ pilot II from Trio. I would like to mount the servo under the seat in my 6A. If anyone has any installation pictures, instructions and/or advise that they would like to share, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Tommy Walker 6A, finishing Ridgetop, TN ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: TruTrak
Date: Jul 01, 2004
Gerald, Ours works great with our Garmin 295 - with ground and heading tracks. Chuck & Dave Rowbotham RV-8A >From: Gerald McKibben <gmckib(at)ra.msstate.edu> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: TruTrak >Date: Thu, 01 Jul 2004 08:51:37 -0500 > > >I got in late on the discussion of the problems interfacing the TruTrak >autopilot with the King KLX 135A. I just ordered one, and the company >representative I talked to told me it would work. In the experience of this >group, which GPS units WILL work with this autopilot? I also have a >Magellan 315, and they told me it should work also. I plan to wire in two >GPS sources, switch selectable. > >Gerald McKibben > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 01, 2004
From: Chris W <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm(at)cox.net>
Subject: Air Nibbler vs Air Shears
I was browsing through one of the tool catalogs I get in the mail on a regular basis, dreaming of when I can start building an RV, and was wondering why I would want both a Nibbler and a Shear. It seems to me since the nibbler can do inside cuts, like a hole in a panel, and a shear can only do outside cuts, the Nibbler would be the thing to have. But I am sure there is more to it than that, so I thought I would ask. -- Chris W Bring Back the HP 15C http://hp15c.org Not getting the gifts you want? The Wish Zone can help. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Walker" <ron(at)walker.net>
Subject: Re: RE: RV-List Digest: 25 Msgs - 06/30/04
Date: Jul 01, 2004
> So, I'll bite, why so many forced landings? > > -Dj > I'll take a stab .... gravity ? ;o) Ron ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 01, 2004
From: Dj Merrill <deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu>
Subject: Re: RE: RV-List Digest: 25 Msgs - 06/30/04
Ron Walker wrote: > >> So, I'll bite, why so many forced landings? >> >>-Dj >> > > > I'll take a stab .... gravity ? Like I said - glider pilot! *grin* -Dj ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kathleen (rv7)" <Kathleen(at)rv7.us>
From: contains numbers mixed in with letters
Date: Jul 01, 2004
Chris, that's a question I asked a few months ago as I started on my RV-7. At first, I didn't buy either. I think in building an RV, there is no need for pneumatic shears. A pair of hand shears is adequate. I decided not to buy a nibbler, but then found a new/used nibbler for $10 in the box. I bought it and have already used it more than I ever expected. I don't like it, but I use it because it makes some jobs really easy to rough in, like roughing out notches for clearance and so on. I don't use it for big cuts. I guess it works for that, but I find it difficult to make good straight cuts with it or to make smooth curves. I'd buy a nibbler again, even at the regular price. I happy with the had shears and don't see any need for pneumatic shears. Start building! It's more fun than you ever imagined! Kathleen www.rv7.us -----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris W contains numbers mixed in with letters --> <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm(at)cox.net> I was browsing through one of the tool catalogs I get in the mail on a regular basis, dreaming of when I can start building an RV, and was wondering why I would want both a Nibbler and a Shear. It seems to me since the nibbler can do inside cuts, like a hole in a panel, and a shear can only do outside cuts, the Nibbler would be the thing to have. But I am sure there is more to it than that, so I thought I would ask. -- Chris W Bring Back the HP 15C http://hp15c.org Not getting the gifts you want? The Wish Zone can help. advertising on the Matronics Forums. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Valve
Date: Jul 01, 2004
I think we need to clarify this. I believe Stan was referring to the "purge" line option that AFP offers for their product. This is not the same as a boost bump pressure relief system that AFP uses. The pressure relief valve opens with excess boost pump and pipes that back to the inlet side of the pump. A by-pass valve is also used on this system to by-pass the AFP pump when running on the engine pump. Marty in Brentwood TN From: Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Valve So to add to all of the different responses... On my RV-8 drawings for the fuel injected plumbing routing, Van's shows a return line running from the Airflow Performance boost bump back to a tee that is mounted on the fuel valve outlet port. This way, the return doesn't have to be run all the way back to the tank and you don't need the expensive valve. Skylor RV-8 QB Under Construction N808SJ Reserved --- "Stan J. Jones" wrote: > > > I am not at all familiar with injected motors. Is > there a fuel return line > from the motor on an IO 360, and do I need to order > one of those fancy fuel > valves that Vans sells, ($350), in order to return > surplus fuel to the tank, > and do I need to plumb up two new fuel lines for > that purpose. > Stan Jones. N.Z. > > > > Contributions > any other > Forums. > > http://www.matronics.com/chat > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm > http://www.matronics.com/archives http://www.matronics.com/photoshare > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Air Nibbler vs Air Shears 0.3
Date: Jul 01, 2004
Second Kathleen's comments. If you get a pneumatic nibbler, be preparred for lots of sharp little pieces of metal scattered all over your shop! I got one from Harbor Freight for something like $29. Have used it on a couple of jobs - one being a new instrument panel. It works well on 0.0625 2024-T3. Doesn't cut very straight at all unless you use a guide.v I had a cheap hand nibbler during the construction of my plane - sure wished I had that pneumatic nibbler! Also, on the panel - use a fly cutter or some kind of punch to make the round holes. Much easier, precise and provides a nicer finished product. You can get a fly cutter for $10-15 last I checked. Just keep your fingers away. my 2 Bryan Jones -8 www.LoneStarSquadron.com Houston, Texas >Chris, that's a question I asked a few months ago as I started on my RV-7. >At first, I didn't buy either. I think in building an RV, there is no need >for pneumatic shears. A pair of hand shears is adequate. I decided not to >buy a nibbler, but then found a new/used nibbler for $10 in the box. I >bought it and have already used it more than I ever expected. I don't like >it, but I use it because it makes some jobs really easy to rough in, like >roughing out notches for clearance and so on. I don't use it for big cuts. >I guess it works for that, but I find it difficult to make good straight >cuts with it or to make smooth curves. I'd buy a nibbler again, even at >the >regular price. I happy with the had shears and don't see any need for >pneumatic shears. > >Start building! It's more fun than you ever imagined! > >Kathleen >www.rv7.us > > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris W >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >contains numbers mixed in with letters > >--> <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm(at)cox.net> > >I was browsing through one of the tool catalogs I get in the mail on a >regular basis, dreaming of when I can start building an RV, and was >wondering why I would want both a Nibbler and a Shear. It seems to me >since >the nibbler can do inside cuts, like a hole in a panel, and a shear can >only >do outside cuts, the Nibbler would be the thing to have. But I am sure >there is more to it than that, so I thought I would ask. > > >-- >Chris W > >Bring Back the HP 15C >http://hp15c.org > >Not getting the gifts you want? The Wish Zone can help. > > >advertising on the Matronics Forums. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com>
Subject: Nose gear leg nut
Date: Jul 01, 2004
List: I am losing enough hair as it is without pulling it out looking for the all metal lock nut that is called out for the bolt that holds the nosegear onto the motor mount for a 6A. It calls for an MS21045-5 all metal locknut. I have looked in my bag content lists and cannot for the life of me find where to find one. I can find it listed for bags that were not included with the 6A/7A finish kit, however. Was a regular old nylock nut substituted? Is this area too prone to exposure to heat to use a nylock nut?? Thanks in advance. Regards, Jeff Orear RV6A N782P (reserved) firewall forward Peshtigo, WI ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 02, 2004
From: "Stan Jones" <stan.jones(at)xtra.co.nz>
Subject: Re: Pix of UFO following me!!
Go on !!!! How did you organise that. Did you give him a call. You were lucky he did not zap you. Stan, A non believer. -------Original Message------- From: rv-list(at)matronics.com Date: Friday, 2 July 2004 2:06:12 a. Subject: RV-List: Pix of UFO following me!! com> A friend of mine and I were doing a dinner run, he had his camera phone and snapped some pictures. We were looking at them on the phone trying to figure out what the spot was. Well after posting them I sure know what it looks like!!!! Go to Pix #5. http://www.vzwpix.com/mlib/Navigate?aclpHolQDzBC7Y Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 02, 2004
Subject: Re: Nose gear leg nut
In a message dated 7/1/2004 9:33:55 PM Pacific Daylight Time, jorear(at)new.rr.com writes: I am losing enough hair as it is without pulling it out looking for the all metal lock nut that is called out for the bolt that holds the nosegear onto the motor mount for a 6A. It calls for an MS21045-5 all metal locknut. I have looked in my bag content lists and cannot for the life of me find where to find one. I can find it listed for bags that were not included with the 6A/7A finish kit, however. Was a regular old nylock nut substituted? Is this area too prone to exposure to heat to use a nylock nut?? ==================================== Contrary to popular belief, every little detail item needed to build these little buggers properly, even now when most of the work is done for you, is not always provided with the kit. That is why Jim Irwin has a job. All locking nuts firewall forward must be all metal and ACS has them. GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 703 hrs) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Shemp" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Body filler?
Date: Jul 02, 2004
A few months ago I spoke with someone about filling gaps between fairings and the plane. I cant remember what type of filler was recommended. I know evercoat has been highly recommended but there are many different types of evercoat. I bought some metal glaze but was told by the auto guy that it would crack at anything more that the minimum thickness. Any suggestions would be appreciated. (Well at least most of them) Thanks Jeff Dowling RV-6a Chicago/ Louisville ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org>
Subject: Body filler?
Date: Jul 02, 2004
Most of the Glasair guys use Evercoat Rage. Bruce www.glasair.org -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Shemp Subject: RV-List: Body filler? A few months ago I spoke with someone about filling gaps between fairings and the plane. I cant remember what type of filler was recommended. I know evercoat has been highly recommended but there are many different types of evercoat. I bought some metal glaze but was told by the auto guy that it would crack at anything more that the minimum thickness. Any suggestions would be appreciated. (Well at least most of them) Thanks Jeff Dowling RV-6a Chicago/ Louisville = = = = ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Subject: FW: 48 States report
Date: Jul 02, 2004
T-minus 8 hours... I just got word that our email server is being moved into a new building this weekend so I will be offline for the first few days of the trip. I'll try daily anyways as our guru's are usually pretty good about keeping the juice flowing. Not much to say about the last few prep items. The plane is topped off, and about as full of ca ca as I usually am. For those of you who know me well I'm sure that you will be amazed if it gets off the ground. First stop is Minden Lake Tahoe. This is just east of the lake on the east side of the ridge that forms the eastern edge of the lake. There are currently two wild fire air attack TFRs on either side of it so I will be using Trukee and Reno as alternates in case of smoke. Next stop after that will be Scappoose Oregon, which is north west of Portland by about 20 miles. It usually has great fuel prices. >From there I will shoot for Arlington Washington if it is not too late and the WX is good. The last three days it has seemed to be cruddy and scuddy in the mornings up there but nice and clear in the afternoons and evenings so it would be nice to get there in one day and arrive in the evening. If not I'll overnight in Vernonia, which is a nice little grass strip halfway to the coast west of Portland. The approach is down a short valley, yank back on the stick, turn left as you stop and start camping about ten feet away from the runway. Not sure what happens if another plane comes in a little off course, but there's a few stout trees I can pitch my tent behind. Last few times I camped there no other planes appeared. Those of you alums of the Mike Seger school of scaring your flight instructor half to death will remember this airport as the one where he gets to show you how a real pilot does it flawlessly. The up side of staying here is its a really pretty place to spend the night, and Mike usually drops out for a visit if he's in town. The dwonside is that I may not be able to get onward up coast until the afternoon. If this happens I'll plan on popping over to Auaora, or Independance for lunch, then head on North. For the rest of the weekend I am working on setup at the flyin, or doing whatever lowly tasks the chiefs would ask of me to do. I may head down on Monday to Umaqua Oregon to meet a friend who is bringing his flawless newly restored Stearman Biplane up to the flyin. I can't wait to fly alongside that one over the pudget sound and take a few shots with the islands as a backdrop. Well, off to bed, early to rise, Keep the blue side up on landings... W ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 02, 2004
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: Body filler?
There is a filler that I really like it's called All Metal (Evercoat?) it is a polyester filler with high aluminium powder fill. I would guess its about 75% aluminium powder. It will expand and contract the same as the plane, I would think it would old up better than any other type fill on aluminium. I will let you know in a few years if its holding up... You can find it at the local auto body shop/paint store. If your still not sure what to use always consult the experts, call Evercoat. I have talked to guys in their lab about how well things hold up. Its great talking to people who know everything about the product. > >A few months ago I spoke with someone about filling gaps between fairings >and the plane. I cant remember what type of filler was recommended. I >know evercoat has been highly recommended but there are many different >types of evercoat. I bought some metal glaze but was told by the auto guy >that it would crack at anything more that the minimum thickness. > >Any suggestions would be appreciated. (Well at least most of them) > >Thanks >Jeff Dowling >RV-6a >Chicago/ Louisville > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 02, 2004
From: C P <yankeerv10(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Pre-purchase inspection
Hi, I have a friend who is choosing between two RV-6s. He needs help finding A&Ps, DARs, or even experienced builders capable of helping with pre-purchase inspections. One is in Bangor, ME, the other is in Ft. Myers, FL. Any help would be appreciated! Mike can be reached at MnwPeeps(at)aol.com. cheers, Chuck __________________________________ http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Lwfeatherston(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 02, 2004
Subject: Re: ignition problem
In your most recent e-mail which I unfortunately erased, you stated that "if it is not the mag, no one here knows what to do next." I am not trying to be cute but can "anyone there" spell _klaus@lightspeedengineering_ (mailto:klaus@lightspeedengineering) . I have both of my semi-inoperative mags which were recently overhauled by a very reputable shop in a cabinet in the hangar, and two of LightSpeeds wonderful electronic ignitions on my engine. I have no scientific proof, but it is my sincere opinion that Klaus was absolutely correct when he said I would save at least one gallon of fuel per hour, and never have to worry about a mag going bad before it's 250 hr overhaul at about $350 per. (You'll need a backup battery and wiring for $25 to $75 depending.) My Lycoming hot starts on the second blade everytime. Dang! Life is good. You can pay me now, or pay me later. Thanks Klaus! Les Featherston N206KT Harmon Rocket II "Airgasm" with 70 hrs. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pete Howell" <pete.howell@gecko-group.com>
Subject: RV-9 Fuse stand/dolly
Date: Jul 02, 2004
Hello, I am ready to begin work on my RV-9 QB fuse and will require a stand/cradle/dolly that will enable me to move it about the garage on wheels. Has anyone built something like this that they can recommend? Is it wise to tie into the wing spar wood blocks? TIA Pete ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob 1" <rv3a(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: ignition problem
Date: Jul 02, 2004
> I have no > scientific proof, but it is my sincere opinion that Klaus was absolutely > correct when he said I would save at least one gallon of fuel per hour, and never > have to worry about a mag going bad before it's 250 hr overhaul at about > $350 per. When you have SCIENTIFIC PROOF to back up sincere opinion..... please post. Bob - from the Show Me state ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 02, 2004
From: "ray sheffield" <rv8a(at)csranet.com>
Subject: garmin 296
Looking for the best price on a new garmin 296 hand held gps ray rv8a(at)csranet.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 02, 2004
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: ignition problem
I flew with a friend, him, a stock O-360. Me an IO-360 with dual EI and injectors matched. Him and RV-8 me an RV-8a. I use 1.5 gallons less per hour. > > > > I have no > > scientific proof, but it is my sincere opinion that Klaus was absolutely > > correct when he said I would save at least one gallon of fuel per hour, >and never > > have to worry about a mag going bad before it's 250 hr overhaul at about > > $350 per. > > >When you have SCIENTIFIC PROOF >to back up sincere opinion..... >please post. > > >Bob - from the Show Me state > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 02, 2004
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: garmin 296
Spinners Pilot Shop $1680.00. Everyone else looks to be $1695.00 > >Looking for the best price on a new garmin 296 hand held gps > >ray > >rv8a(at)csranet.com > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com>
Subject: Re: garmin 296
Date: Jul 02, 2004
Garmin has told their dealers that if they discount this they will be cut off. They are not even supposed to offer free shipping to lower the price. I thought that the days of price fixing were long gone, but there apparently is legislation in place allowing manufacturers to do this. I tried to look it up but did could not find it. As I recall it was the Colgate act ? I'm sorry to see Garmin do this... I was looking at the 296 too. I don't plan to purchase anything from them except the updates for my 195 and 430 until they change this policy. I'm going to talk to their rep at Arlington on Wenesday to see what he knows about this. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BGCrook(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 02, 2004
Subject: Roll servo install (TruTrak)
Hello, I searched the archives and didn't find what I was looking for so here is my question. I'm getting close to finishing the left wing (RV-7) and I would like to install the TruTrak AP. I haven't yet purchased the unit so I'm not sure if I should close up the left wing or not. My question is which wing does it mount in. On the TT website shows a left wing install, but I have heard from another builder that his actually mounted in the right wing. I know it could be installed later, but I'd rather just mount the servo and run the wiring while I have better access. I have sent a couple e-mails to TT and have gotten no reply. Thanks, Bryon Crook -7 wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Roll servo install (TruTrak)
Date: Jul 02, 2004
Bryon, You can put it in either wing...just let them know which wing you chose when you ask for the install kit, which includes all the brackets, hardware and connectors you will need. Ask for the drawing for the wing you select, otherwise you might have to look at it in a mirror :-). Definitely do the install kit now, though. Let me know off line if you need any pictures or any other help. I have the Digiflight II VS in the RV-7, but I think they all use the same servos. Pat Hatch RV-4 RV-6 RV-7 All Flying Vero Beach, FL ----- Original Message ----- From: <BGCrook(at)aol.com> Subject: RV-List: Roll servo install (TruTrak) > > Hello, > > I searched the archives and didn't find what I was looking for so here > is my question. I'm getting close to finishing the left wing (RV-7) and I > would like to install the TruTrak AP. I haven't yet purchased the unit so I'm not > sure if I should close up the left wing or not. My question is which wing does > it mount in. On the TT website shows a left wing install, but I have heard > from another builder that his actually mounted in the right wing. I know it > could be installed later, but I'd rather just mount the servo and run the wiring > while I have better access. > > I have sent a couple e-mails to TT and have gotten no reply. > > Thanks, > Bryon Crook > -7 wings > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Roll servo install (TruTrak)
Date: Jul 02, 2004
I installed mine in the right wing. I don't see any reason why it couldn't be mounted in either wing. I think they have installation hardware for both. While you may be able to install it after you close the wing, it would be A LOT easier to do it before. I even made a separate inspection plate under mine for easy access. Ross Mickey RV6A N9PT -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of BGCrook(at)aol.com Subject: RV-List: Roll servo install (TruTrak) Hello, I searched the archives and didn't find what I was looking for so here is my question. I'm getting close to finishing the left wing (RV-7) and I would like to install the TruTrak AP. I haven't yet purchased the unit so I'm not sure if I should close up the left wing or not. My question is which wing does it mount in. On the TT website shows a left wing install, but I have heard from another builder that his actually mounted in the right wing. I know it could be installed later, but I'd rather just mount the servo and run the wiring while I have better access. I have sent a couple e-mails to TT and have gotten no reply. Thanks, Bryon Crook -7 wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com>
Subject: Re: Roll servo install (TruTrak)
Date: Jul 02, 2004
Byron, I found that mounting it the wing was a little tighter than I liked (RV-6), so I mounted the servo out on the wing tip and used a pushrod to the bellcrank. My buddy mounted his in the seat pan, which I like better because it's easier to wire, and you don't need the servo until your working on the finish kit. Pictures of both installs are at: http://www.rvproject.com/trutrak.html Good luck Laird RV-6 (950hrs ) SoCal On Jul 2, 2004, at 1:41 PM, BGCrook(at)aol.com wrote: > > Hello, > > I searched the archives and didn't find what I was looking for > so here > is my question. I'm getting close to finishing the left wing (RV-7) > and I > would like to install the TruTrak AP. I haven't yet purchased the unit > so I'm not > sure if I should close up the left wing or not. My question is which > wing does > it mount in. On the TT website shows a left wing install, but I have > heard > from another builder that his actually mounted in the right wing. I > know it > could be installed later, but I'd rather just mount the servo and run > the wiring > while I have better access. > > I have sent a couple e-mails to TT and have gotten no reply. > > Thanks, > Bryon Crook > -7 wings > > > _- > ======================================================================= > _- > ======================================================================= > _- > ======================================================================= > _- > ======================================================================= > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ben Cunningham" <benandginny(at)insightbb.com>
Subject: Re: RV-9 Fuse stand/dolly
Date: Jul 02, 2004
Hi Pete, fwiw, I used a padded saw horse right under the spar and an old office chair with vertical adjustment under the tail. Put the saw horse on wheels if you want. Works great. Simple. You will need to remove those wood blocks soon enough to work in the area forward of the spar. Ben Cunningham 71313 RV7 Finish Kit Crossflow Subaru ----- Original Message ----- From: "Pete Howell" <pete.howell@gecko-group.com> Subject: RV-List: RV-9 Fuse stand/dolly > > > Hello, > > I am ready to begin work on my RV-9 QB fuse and will require a > stand/cradle/dolly that will enable me to move it about the garage on > wheels. Has anyone built something like this that they can > recommend? > > Is it wise to tie into the wing spar wood blocks? > > TIA > > Pete > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 02, 2004
From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: ignition problem
Yes, and I can burn the same or less than a friend with a O-320 and me with a O-360, with mags,depends on many things, such as how well an airplane is built, power settings, props, altitude etc. You are not saving 1.5 gallons an hour with EI. I also have friends with them and they say no fuel saving at all. Jerry Scott Bilinski wrote: > >I flew with a friend, him, a stock O-360. Me an IO-360 with dual EI and >injectors matched. Him and RV-8 me an RV-8a. I use 1.5 gallons less per hour. > > > > >> >> >> >> >>> >>> >>>I have no >>>scientific proof, but it is my sincere opinion that Klaus was absolutely >>>correct when he said I would save at least one gallon of fuel per hour, >>> >>> >>and never >> >> >>>have to worry about a mag going bad before it's 250 hr overhaul at about >>>$350 per. >>> >>> >>When you have SCIENTIFIC PROOF >>to back up sincere opinion..... >>please post. >> >> >>Bob - from the Show Me state >> >> >> >> > > >Scott Bilinski >Eng dept 305 >Phone (858) 657-2536 >Pager (858) 502-5190 > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com>
Subject: RV-9 Fuse stand/dolly
Date: Jul 02, 2004
One of the guys in our chapter is making and selling just what you're looking for. (it's not me) http://bmnellis.com/eaa187/admin/index.php?sid=c3463d087f724c7ee311ab7ea702f 831 Mike Nellis RV-6 Fuselage N699BM 1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K http://bmnellis.com *** -----Original Message----- *** From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com *** [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pete Howell *** Sent: Friday, July 02, 2004 11:40 AM *** To: rv-list(at)matronics.com *** Subject: RV-List: RV-9 Fuse stand/dolly *** *** *** --> <pete.howell@gecko-group.com> *** *** *** Hello, *** *** I am ready to begin work on my RV-9 QB fuse and will *** require a stand/cradle/dolly that will enable me to move it *** about the garage on wheels. Has anyone built something *** like this that they can recommend? *** *** Is it wise to tie into the wing spar wood blocks? *** *** TIA *** *** Pete *** *** *** ============= *** Matronics Forums. *** ============= *** ============= *** ============= *** *** *** *** *** *** *** ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: ignition problem
Date: Jul 03, 2004
I have Bendix mags on my 1961 O-320 engine. They have never let me down since I overhauled both of them for less than $320 (price if for both mags) over 1,521 hours ago. No where that I know of is there a requirement or need for a 250 hour overhaul. There is a 500 hour inspection and that has cost me only time and no material. I have spent more time troubleshooting other peoples LightSpeed EI that I have working on my mags. Look at other posts to prove that you will NOT save any fuel with the EI. Last time I looked at the price, I could buy a NEW set of 2 Slick mags cheaper than I could 2 LightSpeed EI systems. The mags will also work with a complete electrical failure. Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, 1,521 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com > >>> > >>> > >>>I have no > >>>scientific proof, but it is my sincere opinion that Klaus was absolutely > >>>correct when he said I would save at least one gallon of fuel per hour, > >>> > >>> > >>and never > >> > >> > >>>have to worry about a mag going bad before it's 250 hr overhaul at about > >>>$350 per. > >>> > >>> > >>When you have SCIENTIFIC PROOF > >>to back up sincere opinion..... > >>please post. > >> > >> > >>Bob - from the Show Me state ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: ignition problem
Date: Jul 02, 2004
> Look at other posts to prove that you will NOT save any fuel > with the EI. > Gary, I have done careful measurements on this very topic. What I have found is that without the electronic spark advance (I happen to have Lasar), it is possible to run smoothly more lean of peak than without, at least at power settings around 55 - 60%. I have AFP injection, but I'm not sure how much of a factor that is. What I have found, during direct comparisons on the same flight, is about 0.4 gph less fuel burn (at 55-60% power) with EI as compared to 25 degree advance mags. Lasar is the only system which allows this direct comparison, as it can be disabled in flight, reverting to straight magneto ignition. There is an additional fuel economy benefit of simply being able to run leaner with the EI. For the data simply comparing with and without EI, see: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/fuelflow.htm Additionally, there is an RV7A here with a carb'd O360 with dual EI's. When we fly side by side, and run lean of peak, we have essentially the same fuel burn. Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN RV6-A N66AP 493 hours http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 02, 2004
From: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: ignition problem
Alex, Your statement below is not quite true. Jeff Rose's ElectroAir Electronic ignition has the ability to allow the pilot to both monitor the amount of spark advance (an optional extra) and "defeat" the additional advance (return to a steady 25 degrees of advance) with the addition of 1 wire and a toggle switch. This feature is standard on his units. Charlie Kuss >snipped >Gary, I have done careful measurements on this very topic. What I have >found is that without the electronic spark advance (I happen to have >Lasar), it is possible to run smoothly more lean of peak than without, >at least at power settings around 55 - 60%. I have AFP injection, but >I'm not sure how much of a factor that is. What I have found, during >direct comparisons on the same flight, is about 0.4 gph less fuel burn >(at 55-60% power) with EI as compared to 25 degree advance mags. Lasar >is the only system which allows this direct comparison, as it can be >disabled in flight, reverting to straight magneto ignition. There is an >additional fuel economy benefit of simply being able to run leaner with >the EI. For the data simply comparing with and without EI, see: snipped ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Hot start (was: Ignition problem)
Date: Jul 02, 2004
> before someone pipes in with the "holy grail" of heat soaked injected > Lycoming starting, please don't. Can't....resist....commenting.....must.....type.....response..... 8-) I have the Airflow Performance injection and purge valve system on my IO-360-A1B6. I thought the purge valve would be the coolest thing sinced sliced bread. Never use it. Well...until today. In Vegas, it was over 90F on the ground, and for the very first time in 150 hours, my engine got heat soaked badly enough to inhibit starting right up. It would kick and then die. Repeat x3, regardless of various attempts. I actually went ahead and used the purge valve as it's intended -- purge valve open, throttle & mixture firewalled, boost pump on for 20-30 sec, purge valve closed, mixture cutoff, crank -- started right up. It really did help. Up until this point, hot starts have required very little effort, and I went from using the purge valve occasionally to not bothering and essentially never needing it. But I do see that in certain conditions it really does pay off. )_( Dan RV-7 N714D http://www.rvproject.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com>
Subject: Re: ignition problem
Date: Jul 03, 2004
> Anyhow... > I'm a poor magneto jockey with a carb and a small retirement check > Auto fuel at 8 gph is my game most of the time. Beer budget all the way. > Bob, that's how I've operated for a long time. Even before I was retired, I ran auto gas in my engines at about 8 gallons per hour. At .4 gallons savings per hour at the current $1.65 per gallon for Shell auto gas, I could never use fuel savings to justify EI. Like Gary, I've had good luck with my mags. I never replaced a mag in the C172 I had. I did replace both mags in the Cheetah I had; but, both were well past their TBOs for throw aways. The Slicks I have now are fairly new; so, I expect a long time before replacement, if ever by me. > No way can I afford or justify FI, Gami injectors and two EI to save a buck > or two an hour running LOP if I was willing to SLOW DOWN in the first place. > Chances are excellent I won't fly enough to recover the costs through any > potential fuel savings. For me, I have an RV to GO FAST. No way am I gonna > slow down to 55% LOP power, even if I had the money to buy all the toys, > bells and whistles. > Same here. Granted, it's good that we have builders who can justify EI to themselves. Eventually, the cost may come down to that of mags; and, some of the potential problems of installation may be eliminated by better instructions, etc. Then, and only then, can I justify EI to myself. One side benefit of having mags is that about any A&P/IA worth his/her salt is going to know and understand mags. My thinking is that EI is fairly new to most of our aircraft; so, they may not be so privy to that. If I'm paying someone to fix an ignition problem, I'd rather they work on something they know so that the time to repair is less. That equals a smaller bill. We guys on a tight budget do well to afford a simple airplane; so, we have to let those with more loose change experiment with the newer toys. That eventually gets the prices down, hopefully, so that us poorer guys can benefit. I'd say EI, glass panels, etc. will be standard equipment on most aircraft, one day. Right now, I'm going to have to spend my money on those things that I can depend on working for lesser dollars. Mags and good quality steam gauges fill that bill. I can use the savings from purchasing those to help make up for that .4 gallons per hour I'll not have by using mags. Of course, I guess one could go back to work to afford those nicer things. Yeah, sure. :-) Jim Sears in KY RV-6A N198JS (Scooter) RV-7A #70317 EAA Tech Counselor EAA Flight Advisor ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 03, 2004
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: ignition problem
All I can say is 160 kts true 7GPH in a RV-8a, IO-360 180 HP. Those numbers have been verified. > >Yes, and I can burn the same or less than a friend with a O-320 and me >with a O-360, with mags,depends on many things, such as how well >an airplane is built, power settings, props, altitude etc. You are not >saving 1.5 gallons an hour with EI. I also have friends with >them and they say no fuel saving at all. > >Jerry > >Scott Bilinski wrote: > > <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com> > > > >I flew with a friend, him, a stock O-360. Me an IO-360 with dual EI and > >injectors matched. Him and RV-8 me an RV-8a. I use 1.5 gallons less per > hour. > > > > > > > > > >> > >> > >> > >> > >>> > >>> > >>>I have no > >>>scientific proof, but it is my sincere opinion that Klaus was absolutely > >>>correct when he said I would save at least one gallon of fuel per hour, > >>> > >>> > >>and never > >> > >> > >>>have to worry about a mag going bad before it's 250 hr overhaul at about > >>>$350 per. > >>> > >>> > >>When you have SCIENTIFIC PROOF > >>to back up sincere opinion..... > >>please post. > >> > >> > >>Bob - from the Show Me state > >> > >> > >> > >> > > > > > >Scott Bilinski > >Eng dept 305 > >Phone (858) 657-2536 > >Pager (858) 502-5190 > > > > > > > > > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 03, 2004
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: ignition problem
>"Look at other posts to prove that you will NOT save any fuel with the EI." This does not make sense, a more powerful ignition can ignite a leaner mixture than mags can. Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: ignition problem
Date: Jul 03, 2004
Also, don't forget that *appropriate* timing advance can increase power. Mag's are typically set at 25 degrees of advance, which is a good compromise. Electronic ignitions are not limited to one set-point. Also, the CAFE foundation found that Electronic ignitions can deliver better performance. This link will take you to their research page: http://www.cafefoundation.org/research.htm I think the real answer is that EI's do provide better performance, whether you want power or fuel efficiency. They probably don't pay for themselves which makes them like almost anything else in personal (?) aviation. The other issues to address are reliability and servicability. My EI failed at 25 hours, but has been flawless in 225 hours since. The problem is that the parts are not easy to come by when compared to mag's, and this can leave you up the proverbial creek if an EI failure catches you away from home... KB ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott Bilinski" <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: ignition problem <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com> > > > >"Look at other posts to prove that you will NOT save any fuel with the EI." > > > This does not make sense, a more powerful ignition can ignite a leaner > mixture than mags can. > > > Scott Bilinski > Eng dept 305 > Phone (858) 657-2536 > Pager (858) 502-5190 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com>
Subject: Mags v EI
Date: Jul 03, 2004
If you're happy with mags, fine ! If you like EI, go for it. I went to dual Lightspeed EI on the 160HP RV6A and here is what I found...I don't care about any potential fuel savings, I just like electronic thingies... Flying always at 9,500 to 11,500 (airport is at 7,489ft) I see for several years of flying these figures: Matronics fuel flow meter shows 6.1 GPH RPM at 2,300 , Manifold 'pressure' 23-in, power around 45% TAS 175MPH in cruise, day in, and day out. Top Speed, wood prop, max rpm 2,550, 205MPH TAS Leaning aided by oxygen sensor in exhaust stack (Av-Mix unit) This looks like another 'primer war' beginning !! Hooray ! John at Salida, CO ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob 1" <rv3a(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: ignition problem
Date: Jul 03, 2004
> >"Look at other posts to prove that you will NOT save any fuel with the EI." > > > This does not make sense, a more powerful ignition can ignite a leaner > mixture than mags can. > > > Scott Bilinski > Eng dept 305 > Phone (858) 657-2536 > Pager (858) 502-5190 ==================================== There is far more to the story than just being able to ignite a leaner mixture. The factors as I understand them, are as follows... E.I. without running in LOP mode saves no fuel. LOP cannot be run SMOOTHLY without precise F.I.... i.e., that calls for calibrated injectors.... i.e. GAMI. To keep an engine from frying at LOP with the special goodies... one needs to remain at low power settings, i.e., below 65 % power. For all this expense and trouble - good luck SCIENTIFICALLY proving more than .5 gph per hour fuel savings. Lastly... I THINK I remember reading that Lycoming does not recommend or endorse this kind of LOP jazz. I.E., it voids a Lycoming factory warranty. Could be wrong. Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Shemp" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: ignition problem
Date: Jul 03, 2004
Yeah but ei is cool. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: ignition problem > > > > Anyhow... > > I'm a poor magneto jockey with a carb and a small retirement check > > Auto fuel at 8 gph is my game most of the time. Beer budget all the way. > > > > Bob, that's how I've operated for a long time. Even before I was retired, I > ran auto gas in my engines at about 8 gallons per hour. At .4 gallons > savings per hour at the current $1.65 per gallon for Shell auto gas, I could > never use fuel savings to justify EI. Like Gary, I've had good luck with my > mags. I never replaced a mag in the C172 I had. I did replace both mags in > the Cheetah I had; but, both were well past their TBOs for throw aways. The > Slicks I have now are fairly new; so, I expect a long time before > replacement, if ever by me. > > > No way can I afford or justify FI, Gami injectors and two EI to save a > buck > > or two an hour running LOP if I was willing to SLOW DOWN in the first > place. > > Chances are excellent I won't fly enough to recover the costs through any > > potential fuel savings. For me, I have an RV to GO FAST. No way am I gonna > > slow down to 55% LOP power, even if I had the money to buy all the toys, > > bells and whistles. > > > > Same here. > > Granted, it's good that we have builders who can justify EI to themselves. > Eventually, the cost may come down to that of mags; and, some of the > potential problems of installation may be eliminated by better instructions, > etc. Then, and only then, can I justify EI to myself. One side benefit of > having mags is that about any A&P/IA worth his/her salt is going to know and > understand mags. My thinking is that EI is fairly new to most of our > aircraft; so, they may not be so privy to that. If I'm paying someone to > fix an ignition problem, I'd rather they work on something they know so that > the time to repair is less. That equals a smaller bill. > > We guys on a tight budget do well to afford a simple airplane; so, we have > to let those with more loose change experiment with the newer toys. That > eventually gets the prices down, hopefully, so that us poorer guys can > benefit. I'd say EI, glass panels, etc. will be standard equipment on most > aircraft, one day. Right now, I'm going to have to spend my money on those > things that I can depend on working for lesser dollars. Mags and good > quality steam gauges fill that bill. I can use the savings from purchasing > those to help make up for that .4 gallons per hour I'll not have by using > mags. Of course, I guess one could go back to work to afford those nicer > things. Yeah, sure. :-) > > Jim Sears in KY > RV-6A N198JS (Scooter) > RV-7A #70317 > EAA Tech Counselor > EAA Flight Advisor > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 03, 2004
From: Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: ignition problem
> I've seen more than one engine trashed by hotshots > running LOP and going fast at the same time. > You can buy a lot of gas for the price of an engine. This is a typical BS response to lean of peak operations. Tell me: Exactly how does LOP and higher power settings hurt an engine? And how do you know that LOP operations killed said engines? Fact is, the mere act of operating LOP at 70-75% power will not hurt an engine. Running engines at "factory suggested" mixtures (50 ROP) at these power setting is much harder on the engine than LOP (higher head temps, higher ICP's) The big IF is how the engine is leaned at higher power settings. If you SLOWLY pull the mixture back from rich to peak, you MIGHT abuse the engine. If you pull the mixture quickly to LOP, then find peak from the lean side and re-lean to 80 or so LOP, you won't hurt it. __________________________________ http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV8ter(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 03, 2004
Subject: michigan flyers/builders around?
Hello, I'm in Mich for vacation this whole 4th of July week. Anyone flying/building and don't mind a visitor drop me a line and save me from too many parties and in law visiting - PLEASE! I've not flown a GA plane around here so an RV orientation flight would be sweet but I'd be very happy looking over a RV8s (which is what I'm finishing up). If you have a Jeff Rose EI that would be really good for me to take a look at. No one has one around where I live. Thanks a bunch, Lucky Macy cp 610 348 4296 MI number where staying most of the time is 248 853 3038 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 03, 2004
From: Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org>
Subject: Re: Hot start (was: Ignition problem)
Hi Dan, Just using the purge valve to shut the engine down tends to solve the restart problems that you normally have with fuel injection. When you shut down with the mixture control it usually leaves pressurized fuel in the system which then leaks past the idle cutoff valve and into the cylinders via the flow divider and injectors. While this won't necessarily flood the engine it does leave it in an unknown condition which can make restarting interesting. If you use the AFP purge valve to stop the engine, it bypasses the residual pressure back to the tank instead of letting it flow into the engine. This gives you a known condition for every warm start. I've used the purge valve (as a purge valve) only a couple of times myself but having flown the airplane for quite a while before I installed it I can tell you I wouldn't be without it! I used to dread quick turnarounds because I almost always had to flood the engine first then do a flooded start, but now every start is a piece of cake. So, I guess even if you're not using it, you're using it? : >) Dave Dan Checkoway wrote: > > > >>before someone pipes in with the "holy grail" of heat soaked injected >>Lycoming starting, please don't. >> >> > >Can't....resist....commenting.....must.....type.....response..... 8-) > >I have the Airflow Performance injection and purge valve system on my >IO-360-A1B6. I thought the purge valve would be the coolest thing sinced >sliced bread. Never use it. > >Well...until today. In Vegas, it was over 90F on the ground, and for the >very first time in 150 hours, my engine got heat soaked badly enough to >inhibit starting right up. It would kick and then die. Repeat x3, >regardless of various attempts. I actually went ahead and used the purge >valve as it's intended -- purge valve open, throttle & mixture firewalled, >boost pump on for 20-30 sec, purge valve closed, mixture cutoff, crank -- >started right up. It really did help. > >Up until this point, hot starts have required very little effort, and I went >from using the purge valve occasionally to not bothering and essentially >never needing it. But I do see that in certain conditions it really does >pay off. > >)_( Dan >RV-7 N714D >http://www.rvproject.com > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: Hot start (was: Ignition problem)
Date: Jul 03, 2004
> Just using the purge valve to shut the engine down tends to solve the I *always* shut down with the purge valve, no exception. > So, I guess even if you're not using it, you're using it? : >) Yeah, true... 8-) I guess my "never use it" statement was more about using it when starting. )_( Dan ________________________________________________________________________________ h75larry(at)hotmail.com, goobs47(at)juno.com, ceengland(at)bellsouth.net
Date: Jul 03, 2004
Subject: RV-List Fly-in EVERYONE WELCOME
From: smoothweasel(at)juno.com
Hey Guys, Each and everyone of you are invited to come over for our fly-in. This will be taking place over Oshkosh weekend so anyone that is passing through the area to or from Oshkosh please feel free to stop in. A Lunch will be provided at no cost!!!!! Bring anything that will fly.........there will be RV's, Biplanes, a whole lot of taildraggers, and some projects on display, including a Pitts, a Legal Eagle and more......and a whole lot of guys hangin' round and talkin about planes. If the weather is bad we will have it at the Macon, MS airport (20M). Time: anytime after 7:00am......we will have doughnuts for the early ones. Date: July 31 Location: Brooksville MS Freq. 122.75 Coordinates: 33deg 16.199N 088deg 34.168W Runway: 2500ft Grass North and South note: unobstructed app. from South. and trees on the North end. also note: 84ft tower located next to house. Tel. 662 738 5666 Weasel ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 04, 2004
From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Cylinder head temps
his was posted on newsgroup, thought it might be of interest to someone here. Jerry ------begin forward------- > > > X-Originating-IP: [208.49.242.11] > X-Sender: n76lima(at)mindspring.com@pop.mindspring.com > X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Version 5.1.1 > Date: Fri, 02 Jul 2004 19:52:16 -0500 > To: bd4@northwest-aero.com > From: Bob Steward <n76lima(at)mindspring.com> > > > As many of you know, I also participate in the Grumman email list, and this week while consulting with a well known engine shop over a problem that they'd been working on for 3 weeks a new discovery was made that suddenly dropped the CHTs 40+ degrees on engines that were running too hot. > > Here is my message to the Grumman list, and you'll find that the issue is also known among Expirmental pilots with GEM, JPI and EI engine monitors. > > If you have a digital CHT and have noticed spreads in temp between cylinders, this information is for you... > > The names mentioned in the message are familiar to those in the Grumman owners group, but probably mean little to anyone here on the BD-4 List. > ================== > On my way back from the Chicago area, picking up a wing panel for a Tiger, > I stopped in at Bill & Carol's Precision Engine in KY to put a fresh pair > of eyes on a plane that had been bedeviling them for the last 3 weeks. > Bill had called and left a long message on my answering machine, and I KNEW > he'd been having fits with a plane that I'd previously worked on, and knew > the owner well, so I decided that a 2 hour detour would be a reasonable > thing to do. > > A 74 Traveler with a fresh Precision High Compression STC O-320 was running > High CHTs on #2 and #3 (LF and RR) cylinders. They'd top 420 full rich at > cruise and break 450 at full power and #1 & #4 were in the 370-385 range, > right where you'd like them to be. > > After hearing the full story this morning of all the things that had been rechecked and swapped with known good test parts on this fresh engine, I told Bill that I thought the next step in troubleshooting was to pull 1 pair of cylinders and swap them front and rear to see if the high temp followed the cylinder or stayed with the same location on the engine. Of course on the heels of a 3 week thrash with the owner living in their spare bedroom, he really didn't want to pull the cylinders. I offered to give him a hand swapping them and figured that before dark we'd be able to test fly it and have a decision on if there was a cylinder problem or some odd internal engine problem (cam?) that was causing the high CHTs. > > During the course of visually inspecting the cylinders as currently installed, and recalling the 3 sets of cylinders that were installed on Hal Beauchchene's Tiger before similar high CHTs were corrected, it occurred to me that with Carol's water tight baffles, and all the rest of the work Bill had done to this engine, that it HAD to be something outside the items that are normally checked during OH, and something that Bill's 3 weeks worth of troubleshooting had not detected. > > After Hal's engine gave him such fits, and it had been inspected and instrumented by LoPresti East and ECI in Texas, and ECI had provided a second set of cylinders that were just as hot as the first, we were pretty vexed about it. Eventually Hal was able to convince ECI to sell him a set of the then new Titan cylinders and take the "hot" ones back in trade. We put the 3rd set on in Hal's hangar in Elba AL, and it ran cool right out of the box, even during break in, and at that moment we both knew that the CYLINDERS THEMSELVES can cause high CHTs, even if the baffling and the rest of the engine are perfect. Not just hotter than usual, but the kind of high CHT that prevents you from even pulling the mixture back at all because to lean even the slightest amount will spike the CHTs into the 450F and rising range while in 130 knots cruise flight in January OATs. > > Upon inspection of the offending cylinders on Hal's engine we noticed that SOME of the fins around the spark plug were partially obstructed with casting flashing. Not BAD, just some thin aluminum scrap poking out the sides of the fins about 1/2 way down. A tool made of a broken off hack saw blade allowed some guesstimating as to how obstructed some of the slots were. > > The NEW cylinders were the latest revision of the Titan cylinders with a different alloy and a different fin pattern, so they didn't look quite the same. And we didn't really follow up on it at the time because the new cylinders cooled no matter what one did with the red knob, so Hal was happy. > > Coming back to Bill's problem engine, I spotted the SAME flashing problem on the Genuine Lycoming cylinders Bill always uses (He hates ECI), as opposed to the 2 sets of ECI cylinders that we'd been through on Hal's engine. The problem was obviously worse on the #2 and #3 cylinders with much more "flash" filling the slots and limiting the air flow, though #1 and #4 were somewhat affected. > Before altering the cylinders, Lycoming Tech support was consulted again, > Bill had been picking their brain(s) for possible causes. They had never HEARD of such a thing as casting flash in between the fins restricting the air flow. > > After using a set of needle files to file the flash off of the fins (6 fins, vertical around the plugs), the owner and I flew the plane at 2500' and 5000' at 2650 RPM leaned to roughness and the enriched until smooth for a 30 min test flight. We discovered a 43 degree drop in CHT on #2 from the multiple previous test flights before the fin clean up. #3 which hadn't been as vigorously filed and cleaned showed a 16 degree drop. > > WOW! From 420 to 377 in one 45 minute operation! > > At this very minute we are filing and smoothing the flash on ALL the cylinders to make the fins straight with no casting flash protruding and to open up the fins that had had little if any opening between them. Comparing several cylinders that Bill had lying around, some from the 70's, we were able to establish what "normal" fins should look like and see that there should be NO core shift or parting line flash blocking the 6 fins airflow. > > Bill happened to have another customer's Cheetah engine in the shop and it was back for a warranty replacement of three jugs for excess valve guide wear in only a couple hundred hours. 3 of the cylinders were on the bench, and 1 which had showed acceptable wear was remaining on the plane. After examination of the 3 "bad" cylinders that Lycoming had already sent replacements for, and then the 1 "good" one that had passed the SB-388B wobble test, the exact same flash was found to correspond to each of the cylinders that were "bad". The owner reported being unable to keep them cool in a 105 knot climb at full rich based on engine monitor data. > > The one "good" cylinder was clear through all the fins. We were able to eyeball a good view straight through all 6 fins to see the floor. So that supported the hypothesis, flashing = high CHT and rapidly wearing valve guides. > > In another hour we'll go for a second test flight and see what the additional clean up does for us. If #3 drops to a similar temp like #2 did after the clean up, and possibly #1 and #4 go lower too, you may hear the shout all the way from Owensboro! > > So there you go: Check your cylinders on the 6 vertical fins between the spark plug and the valve cover. There should be 0.060" - 0.090" clearance on both sides of the fins. Look down between the fins about 1.5" for the parting line of the casting molds and you'll see the flashing of which I'm speaking. In the diagonal corners 90 degrees to the fins we found openings ranging from NONE to 1/8" holes that appeared to have been drilled post casting to a distorted "Y" at the outboard corner and a 5/8" long slot at the inboard corner. > > This explains why some planes in the fleet DON'T have CHT problems, and some DO, and some do only on 1 or 2 cylinders. It may be that being blessed with 4 good cylinders lets you brag to your buddies about your low CHTs, and they might never be able to achieve those readings if their cylinders have the flashing at the mold parting line! > > Grumman owners rejoice, a persistent problem, oft blamed on shoddy maintenance of the baffles has been tracked down on a plane that may well be among the best instrumented and certainly one of the most obsessed over and well baffled in the fleet. And you know if Bill and I are happy with it (and you know how picky we can both be), that everyone else should be pleased with the results, too. > ============== > > And the follow up message after the second test flight was even better with very tight groupings of the CHTs and the ability to lean at will without over heating the engine. > > ============= > A couple of folks have already run out to their aircraft and inspected for flashing on the hot cylinders they've been battling. And guess what? They have the exact situation described earlier on the engine Bill had just completed. Both were Genuine Lycoming cylinders and 1 was on a New Tiger. > > It was very difficult to get pictures down in the fins, the camera wanted to focus on the tops of the fins (damn autofocus). > > I've got some cylinders here that I will use my camera that has too many buttons on it to manually focus down into the fins and get some pictures. I'll post the URL as soon as I get them up. > > We did go out for that second flight after cleaning out the fins on ALL the cylinders, and the CHTs grouped very tightly and the temps at 5,000' DA and 2700 RPM leaned to roughness and then smoothed back out (on the high side of 80% power), indicating 130 mph (blunt nosed Traveler, TAS ~143) OAT 64 F. > > 385-390 on 3 of them, and the 4th one has a "combo" CHT to share the hole with the LASAR ignition (deactivated for testing) and we were advised by JPI that it "reads 20 degrees low", was showing 352. But its been consistently low in all the testing. > > So now with the CHTs tightly grouped and able to lean at will and run high power settings, the only thing left to prove is that this cleaning out of the fins will extend the valve guide life. Check back next year for that proof, as the owner has made the suggestion that he is going to put 4-500 hours on it in 12 months, so we'll have some idea how the guides are doing next year. > > In a 90 knot climb we'd see the CHT on 1 cylinder (#3 tha had been 420 in cruise and sneaking past 450 in a climb earlier) tickle the 400 number but never higher than 404. As soon as the nose was pushed over the temps went right down. > ============ > > A word of caution. I'm NOT suggesting you take files or broken hack saw blades to your cylinders. The discovery phase is here, the answer to how you in the field can correct this matter remains to be seen. hopefully with the continued discussion between myself and Lycoming and the input from those that have digital gauges and have eyeballed the fins, we can build enough data to move the giant Textron corporation off dead center and get a Service bulletin issued that gives approved limits for filing to offers exchange cylinders for those with defective ones. > > Don't put a big sticker on your plane that says "Experimental" just yet. > > I'll post the URL for the web site once I get the pictures and drawings completed. > > Bob Steward A&P IA > Birmingham, AL > BD-4 Serial #1 > http://www.mindspring.com/~n76lima/n624bd/ > > > > _______________________________________________ > bd4 mailing list > bd4@northwest-aero.com > http://northwest-aero.com/mailman/listinfo/bd4 -----end forward------ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List Digest: 31 Msgs - 07/02/04
Date: Jul 04, 2004
> > > Hello, > > I am ready to begin work on my RV-9 QB fuse and will require a > stand/cradle/dolly that will enable me to move it about the garage on > wheels. Has anyone built something like this that they can > recommend? > > Is it wise to tie into the wing spar wood blocks? > > TIA > > Pete > Hi Pete- As my shop is long and narrow, I needed some sort of 'wiggle' capability for my 8 QB. I got a set of industrial castors out of trade a plane for about $25 and mounted them to a 1 x 6 on the bottom of the wooden stub spars that came in the fuse. Works great! makes access to the innards easy (close to the floor) and moving it around is a snap. I have harbor freight auto dollies for when it's on it's gear legs. Another good deal. The only caveat I'm aware of is that I ended up clamping the top of the stub spar together as it had a tendency to delaminate over time. FWIW gm ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wayne R. Couture" <commando@cox-internet.com>
Subject: Skyloc fastners
Date: Jul 04, 2004
I just received the Skyloc fastener kit from "Skybolt" and in the instructions it says that they used 2024T3 .064 for support strips although others have used thinner strips with good results. .064 seems pretty thick to me. I'd like to find out what others have used? Wayne Couture RV-8A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 04, 2004
From: Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Skyloc fastners
I used .064 per the plans. It does seem to be a bit thick, but it hasn't cracked yet and I have no fear that it ever will. I cut it down to 2 foot strips of 064 along the perimeter, much easier to fit than longer strips. If anybody is on the fence about using Skybolts, they are worth their weight in gold! Jeff Point RV-6 70 hours Milwaukee WI Wayne R. Couture wrote: > > I just received the Skyloc fastener kit from "Skybolt" and in the instructions it says that they used 2024T3 .064 for support strips although others have used thinner strips with good results. .064 seems pretty thick to me. I'd like to find out what others have used? > >Wayne Couture >RV-8A > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Weiler" <dweiler(at)nomadwi.com>
Subject: Re: Skyloc fastners
Date: Jul 04, 2004
> > I used .064 per the plans. It does seem to be a bit thick, but it > hasn't cracked yet and I have no fear that it ever will. I cut it down > to 2 foot strips of 064 along the perimeter, much easier to fit than > longer strips. > > If anybody is on the fence about using Skybolts, they are worth their > weight in gold! I used .040 in my RV-4. No cracks after 120 hours. Doug Weiler 22DW in paint shop at Razor's Edge ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 04, 2004
From: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-6A gear leg fairing length
I just started trimmimg the gear leg fairing - cut it to match the drawing. The manual indicates that it might need to be trimmed shorter. Thinking about removing/inserting the hinge pin, I'd like to cut the lower end back an inch or so to give me more room to get the pin in & out. It also leaves a bit more room for the brake line. The drawings & manual don't indicate how much room there should be between the lower end of the gear leg fairing and the wheel fairing, if any. (Neither the top or bottom intersection fairings are made yet, of course.) Can any one tell me how the hinge pin is typically removed from the fairing? Do you remove the wheel fairing AND the top intersection fairing first and then loosen the hose clamp that holds the gear fairing to the leg? Also, how far down from the top is the hose clamp typically located? I find it hard to get the brake line laying flat against the gear leg as high up as the drawing seems to indicate, that is, an about an inch from the landing gear weldment. Thanks for any guidance here. -- Tom Sargent, RV-6A, Landing gear ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jerry2DT(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 05, 2004
Subject: Re:Cylinder head temps
Jerry... Wow, that is interesting news. Of course, who would expect the brilliant engineers at Lyco to have discovered that first? One wonders how many years it might take them to correct the problem in the manufacturing process... I just checked my Superior IO-360, and NO excess flashing to thwart ariflow. Jerry Cochran Wilsonville, OR From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> Subject: RV-List: Cylinder head temps his was posted on newsgroup, thought it might be of interest to someone here. Jerry ------begin forward------- > > > > As many of you know, I also participate in the Grumman email list, and this week while consulting with a well known engine shop over a problem that they'd been working on for 3 weeks a new discovery was made that suddenly dropped the CHTs 40+ degrees on engines that were running too hot. > > Here is my message to the Grumman list, and you'll find that the issue is also known among Expirmental pilots with GEM, JPI and EI engine monitors. > > If you have a digital CHT and have noticed spreads in temp between cylinders, this information is for you... > > The names mentioned in the message are familiar to those in the Grumman owners group, but probably mean little to anyone here on the BD-4 List. > ================== > On my way back from the Chicago area, picking up a wing panel for a Tiger, > I stopped in at Bill & Carol's Precision Engine in KY to put a fresh pair > of eyes on a plane that had been bedeviling them for the last 3 weeks. > Bill had called and left a long message on my answering machine, and I KNEW > he'd been having fits with a plane that I'd previously worked on, and knew > the owner well, so I decided that a 2 hour detour would be a reasonable > thing to do. > > A 74 Traveler with a fresh Precision High Compression STC O-320 was running > High CHTs on #2 and #3 (LF and RR) cylinders. They'd top 420 full rich at > cruise and break 450 at full power and #1 & #4 were in the 370-385 range, > right where you'd like them to be. > > After hearing the full story this morning of all the things that had been rechecked and swapped with known good test parts on this fresh engine, I told Bill that I thought the next step in troubleshooting was to pull 1 pair of cylinders and swap them front and rear to see if the high temp followed the cylinder or stayed with the same location on the engine. Of course on the heels of a 3 week thrash with the owner living in their spare bedroom, he really didn't want to pull the cylinders. I offered to give him a hand swapping them and figured that before dark we'd be able to test fly it and have a decision on if there was a cylinder problem or some odd internal engine problem (cam?) that was causing the high CHTs. > > During the course of visually inspecting the cylinders as currently installed, and recalling the 3 sets of cylinders that were installed on Hal Beauchchene's Tiger before similar high CHTs were corrected, it occurred to me that with Carol's water tight baffles, and all the rest of the work Bill had done to this engine, that it HAD to be something outside the items that are normally checked during OH, and something that Bill's 3 weeks worth of troubleshooting had not detected. > > After Hal's engine gave him such fits, and it had been inspected and instrumented by LoPresti East and ECI in Texas, and ECI had provided a second set of cylinders that were just as hot as the first, we were pretty vexed about it. Eventually Hal was able to convince ECI to sell him a set of the then new Titan cylinders and take the "hot" ones back in trade. We put the 3rd set on in Hal's hangar in Elba AL, and it ran cool right out of the box, even during break in, and at that moment we both knew that the CYLINDERS THEMSELVES can cause high CHTs, even if the baffling and the rest of the engine are perfect. Not just hotter than usual, but the kind of high CHT that prevents you from even pulling the mixture back at all because to lean even the slightest amount will spike the CHTs into the 450F and rising range while in 130 knots cruise flight in January OATs. > > Upon inspection of the offending cylinders on Hal's engine we noticed that SOME of the fins around the spark plug were partially obstructed with casting flashing. Not BAD, just some thin aluminum scrap poking out the sides of the fins about 1/2 way down. A tool made of a broken off hack saw blade allowed some guesstimating as to how obstructed some of the slots were. > > The NEW cylinders were the latest revision of the Titan cylinders with a different alloy and a different fin pattern, so they didn't look quite the same. And we didn't really follow up on it at the time because the new cylinders cooled no matter what one did with the red knob, so Hal was happy. > > Coming back to Bill's problem engine, I spotted the SAME flashing problem on the Genuine Lycoming cylinders Bill always uses (He hates ECI), as opposed to the 2 sets of ECI cylinders that we'd been through on Hal's engine. The problem was obviously worse on the #2 and #3 cylinders with much more "flash" filling the slots and limiting the air flow, though #1 and #4 were somewhat affected. > Before altering the cylinders, Lycoming Tech support was consulted again, > Bill had been picking their brain(s) for possible causes. They had never HEARD of such a thing as casting flash in between the fins restricting the air flow. > > After using a set of needle files to file the flash off of the fins (6 fins, vertical around the plugs), the owner and I flew the plane at 2500' and 5000' at 2650 RPM leaned to roughness and the enriched until smooth for a 30 min test flight. We discovered a 43 degree drop in CHT on #2 from the multiple previous test flights before the fin clean up. #3 which hadn't been as vigorously filed and cleaned showed a 16 degree drop. > > WOW! From 420 to 377 in one 45 minute operation! > > At this very minute we are filing and smoothing the flash on ALL the cylinders to make the fins straight with no casting flash protruding and to open up the fins that had had little if any opening between them. Comparing several cylinders that Bill had lying around, some from the 70's, we were able to establish what "normal" fins should look like and see that there should be NO core shift or parting line flash blocking the 6 fins airflow. > > Bill happened to have another customer's Cheetah engine in the shop and it was back for a warranty replacement of three jugs for excess valve guide wear in only a couple hundred hours. 3 of the cylinders were on the bench, and 1 which had showed acceptable wear was remaining on the plane. After examination of the 3 "bad" cylinders that Lycoming had already sent replacements for, and then the 1 "good" one that had passed the SB-388B wobble test, the exact same flash was found to correspond to each of the cylinders that were "bad". The owner reported being unable to keep them cool in a 105 knot climb at full rich based on engine monitor data. > > The one "good" cylinder was clear through all the fins. We were able to eyeball a good view straight through all 6 fins to see the floor. So that supported the hypothesis, flashing = high CHT and rapidly wearing valve guides. > > In another hour we'll go for a second test flight and see what the additional clean up does for us. If #3 drops to a similar temp like #2 did after the clean up, and possibly #1 and #4 go lower too, you may hear the shout all the way from Owensboro! > > So there you go: Check your cylinders on the 6 vertical fins between the spark plug and the valve cover. There should be 0.060" - 0.090" clearance on both sides of the fins. Look down between the fins about 1.5" for the parting line of the casting molds and you'll see the flashing of which I'm speaking. In the diagonal corners 90 degrees to the fins we found openings ranging from NONE to 1/8" holes that appeared to have been drilled post casting to a distorted "Y" at the outboard corner and a 5/8" long slot at the inboard corner. > > This explains why some planes in the fleet DON'T have CHT problems, and some DO, and some do only on 1 or 2 cylinders. It may be that being blessed with 4 good cylinders lets you brag to your buddies about your low CHTs, and they might never be able to achieve those readings if their cylinders have the flashing at the mold parting line! > > Grumman owners rejoice, a persistent problem, oft blamed on shoddy maintenance of the baffles has been tracked down on a plane that may well be among the best instrumented and certainly one of the most obsessed over and well baffled in the fleet. And you know if Bill and I are happy with it (and you know how picky we can both be), that everyone else should be pleased with the results, too. > ============== > > And the follow up message after the second test flight was even better with very tight groupings of the CHTs and the ability to lean at will without over heating the engine. > > ============= > A couple of folks have already run out to their aircraft and inspected for flashing on the hot cylinders they've been battling. And guess what? They have the exact situation described earlier on the engine Bill had just completed. Both were Genuine Lycoming cylinders and 1 was on a New Tiger. > > It was very difficult to get pictures down in the fins, the camera wanted to focus on the tops of the fins (damn autofocus). > > I've got some cylinders here that I will use my camera that has too many buttons on it to manually focus down into the fins and get some pictures. I'll post the URL as soon as I get them up. > > We did go out for that second flight after cleaning out the fins on ALL the cylinders, and the CHTs grouped very tightly and the temps at 5,000' DA and 2700 RPM leaned to roughness and then smoothed back out (on the high side of 80% power), indicating 130 mph (blunt nosed Traveler, TAS ~143) OAT 64 F. > > 385-390 on 3 of them, and the 4th one has a "combo" CHT to share the hole with the LASAR ignition (deactivated for testing) and we were advised by JPI that it "reads 20 degrees low", was showing 352. But its been consistently low in all the testing. > > So now with the CHTs tightly grouped and able to lean at will and run high power settings, the only thing left to prove is that this cleaning out of the fins will extend the valve guide life. Check back next year for that proof, as the owner has made the suggestion that he is going to put 4-500 hours on it in 12 months, so we'll have some idea how the guides are doing next year. > > In a 90 knot climb we'd see the CHT on 1 cylinder (#3 tha had been 420 in cruise and sneaking past 450 in a climb earlier) tickle the 400 number but never higher than 404. As soon as the nose was pushed over the temps went right down. > ============ >Snip>> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 05, 2004
From: richard dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net>
Subject: Re: RV-6A gear leg fairing length
Hi Tom, Though I haven't flown yet, I have made the upper and lower intersection fairings and fitted my gear leg fairings. I have put them together and taken them apart several times. So, this may be of interest to you. I chose to permanently attach the lower intersection fairings to the front half of the wheel fairings. Then I attached the trailing edges of the intersection fairing to the rear half with nutplates on the wheel fairing and screws through the intersection fairings. I trimmed the leg fairings so that there are about 1-1/2" of leg fairing inside the lower intersection fairings. and about 3/4" inside the upper intersection fairings. The gear leg fairings are about 24" long ( measured at either the leading or trailing edges; since the ends are angled). Since the lower intersection fairings are permanently attached to the front halves of the wheel fairings and split at the trailing edge, I spread the trailing edges (there is lots of "give" in the fiberglass) slide the intersection fairing forward over the leg fairing with the front half of the wheel fairing. Since I made the intersection fairings, there is a lot of latitude to many of the dimensions. To go on with the pin removal, After removing the lower intersection fairing and front half of the wheel fairing, I pull the pin out of the leg fairing. The stainless steel pin diameter is small enough and strong enough that it is very flexible and can be bent enough to remove it without exceeding its yield point. The original aluminum pin is very soft and will take a permanent set if bent. Of course, I had to cut several slots to accommodate the brake line and the hose clamp. The leg fairings are clamped just below the entry of the leg into the leg weldment. I hope that this is of some help. I'd take pictures, but everything is currently apart for painting. Regards, Richard Dudley -6A painting thomas a. sargent wrote: > >I just started trimmimg the gear leg fairing - cut it to match the >drawing. The manual indicates that it might need to be trimmed shorter. > Thinking about removing/inserting the hinge pin, I'd like to cut the >lower end back an inch or so to give me more room to get the pin in & >out. It also leaves a bit more room for the brake line. The drawings & >manual don't indicate how much room there should be between the lower >end of the gear leg fairing and the wheel fairing, if any. (Neither the >top or bottom intersection fairings are made yet, of course.) > >Can any one tell me how the hinge pin is typically removed from the >fairing? Do you remove the wheel fairing AND the top intersection >fairing first and then loosen the hose clamp that holds the gear fairing >to the leg? > >Also, how far down from the top is the hose clamp typically located? I >find it hard to get the brake line laying flat against the gear leg as >high up as the drawing seems to indicate, that is, an about an inch from >the landing gear weldment. > >Thanks for any guidance here. > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 05, 2004
From: Bruno <rv4(at)videotron.ca>
Subject: SKYLOCKS FASTENERS
Hello All Anyone ever used these Skylocks Fasteners on the Top Aft portion of the top cowlings of an RV-4 instead of the @#$%% pins??? Also if there is anyone with pictures of such an installation, I will really appreciate having a look at them. Respond off list if you like, Thank you Bruno Dionne C-GDBH RV-4 (Flying) rv4(at)videotron.ca ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net>
Subject: Sensenich prop RPM
Date: Jul 05, 2004
I have a 160hp 0-320 Lyc on the RV6 with a Sensenich FP prop with 80" of pitch. Static RPM is 2000 RPM. Seems a bit low. What pitch Sensenich props are being used on 0-320s to get the RPMs up??? Jerry Calvert Edmond Ok RV6 N296JC....waiting for DAR ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Harvey Sigmon" <rv6hes(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Sensenich prop RPM
Date: Jul 05, 2004
Jerry: I have a Sensenich propeller with a 160HP engine. Mine is a -79", that is what they recommended 3 years ago. Static take off RPM is 2240 RPM and about the same until you get to cruise altitude. I have an Electronic International Tachometer, below 5000' it is possible to exceed the 2600 RPM limit. Above that it will not go over 2600 limit in level flight. Hope this helps, if you have more detailed questions Ed Zelkie at Sensenich can really help.. Harvey Sigmon N602RV 330 hrs ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net> Subject: RV-List: Sensenich prop RPM > > I have a 160hp 0-320 Lyc on the RV6 with a Sensenich FP prop with 80" of pitch. Static RPM is 2000 RPM. Seems a bit low. > > What pitch Sensenich props are being used on 0-320s to get the RPMs up??? > > Jerry Calvert > Edmond Ok > RV6 N296JC....waiting for DAR > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: Sensenich prop RPM
Date: Jul 05, 2004
Hi Jerry, You're probably not too far off. I've got a 150hp -320, and that's about my static RPm with a 79" prop. That being said, after having flown it now for awhile, I think I might take out an inch of twist and bring the prop down to 78". The reason being, is that I can barely make the 2600RPM limit with WOT. That's a good thing, because I won't overspeed the prop, but bad because I can't get a ton of extra static RPM. That decrease of 1" should give me about 100-150RPM extra on takeoff. Based on the numbers, I'll bet yours will be fairly similar. Top end cruise should easily be around 185mph, but the climb will suffer as a result of the thick prop. Cheers, Stein Bruch RV6's, Minneapolis -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jerry Calvert Subject: RV-List: Sensenich prop RPM I have a 160hp 0-320 Lyc on the RV6 with a Sensenich FP prop with 80" of pitch. Static RPM is 2000 RPM. Seems a bit low. What pitch Sensenich props are being used on 0-320s to get the RPMs up??? Jerry Calvert Edmond Ok RV6 N296JC....waiting for DAR ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 05, 2004
From: "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com>
Subject: Should I scrap this piece? (picture attached)
(not processed: message size (144241) exceeds max size (25600)) This is the HS-710 where I drilled out the indentation as per the plans for my RV-7A. As you can see, it goes in another 1/8" from where it should have stopped (designated by the red lines). Should I scrap the pieces or continue to use them? I notice in the instructions that are circled that the important thing is that the rivets maintain a two diameter distance between the center of the rivet and the edge of the material. Even with the mistake I made that should not be a problem as the rivet is going to be to the left side of the relief and the extra material removed does not compriise that. Does this spar joint have some kind of structural significance that is going to be compomised by what I did? Hopefully you guys can imagine where this piece is. The 6 degree bend line is just to the left of the relief... Please let me know what you think ASAP. 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June 25, 2004 - July 06, 2004

RV-Archive.digest.vol-pl