RV-Archive.digest.vol-pm
July 06, 2004 - July 14, 2004
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
Some defective Annual Inspection DVDs:
We learned this weekend that about half of the new Annual
Inspection-Powerplant videos which were sent out over the last week are
defective.
At about 15 minutes into the presentation, (within the oil filter section),
the video will begin to sporadically pixilate and the audio will drop in and
out continuing throughout the rest of the program.
If you have a bad disk, please let me know by return e-mail
agold(at)buildersbooks.com or by phone at 800 780-4115, so that I can replace
it.
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Insurance Exclusions? |
Hi All,
In my insurance policy, PART TWO - EXCLUSIONS, I read the following sentence:
This insurance does not apply:
2. to any claim YOU, YOUR survivors or YOUR estate makes for BODILY INJURY or
death to YOU.
Does anyone else have this same exclusion in their policy?
I believe this means that as the aircraft and policy owner I am NEVER covered
for bodily injury, since it is part of the liability coverage.
It doesn't matter if I have a single place, two place or four place aircraft,
as the policy/aircraft owner I am not covered by the liability bodily injury
portion of the aircraft insurance policy.
My policy also allows $1,000 medical coverage. But that's medical coverage,
not liability coverage.
If your policy reads the same as mine, it might be worth knowing when you
think about the first flight of your airplane.
A "non owner" (flight test pilot) flying your airplane is covered by the
bodily injury portion of your liability insurance, while, being the "owner", you
are not covered by the liability bodily injury portion of the same policy.
Jim Ayers
EAA Flight Advisor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Insurance Exclusions? |
It's that way on all aviation policies. You, as the owner, purchase the liability
portion of your insurance coverage to protect yourself from lawsuits from
others that arise out of the use of or the ownership of your plane. The liability
coverage is not designed to be a life or health policy for you (the owner).
The medical coverages normally are afforded to the owner. That is because most
companies include the crew for that coverage.
Just to throw a wrench into things, the typical Life Insurance policy excludes coverage while you are operating an aircraft or are a passenger of an unscheduled flight. Normally, they will include coverage for you while you are flying as a passenger on a commercial airline. There are very few policies which don't address that issue. www.piclife.com is a website I've referred pilots to for years. The agent is an Allstate agent, and at least the last time I heard, he was the only Allstate agent in the country who could add coverage for aircraft owners thru Allstate.
JT
----- Original Message -----
From: LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 2004 11:38 AM
Subject: RV-List: Insurance Exclusions?
Hi All,
In my insurance policy, PART TWO - EXCLUSIONS, I read the following sentence:
This insurance does not apply:
2. to any claim YOU, YOUR survivors or YOUR estate makes for BODILY INJURY or
death to YOU.
Does anyone else have this same exclusion in their policy?
I believe this means that as the aircraft and policy owner I am NEVER covered
for bodily injury, since it is part of the liability coverage.
It doesn't matter if I have a single place, two place or four place aircraft,
as the policy/aircraft owner I am not covered by the liability bodily injury
portion of the aircraft insurance policy.
My policy also allows $1,000 medical coverage. But that's medical coverage,
not liability coverage.
If your policy reads the same as mine, it might be worth knowing when you
think about the first flight of your airplane.
A "non owner" (flight test pilot) flying your airplane is covered by the
bodily injury portion of your liability insurance, while, being the "owner",
you
are not covered by the liability bodily injury portion of the same policy.
Jim Ayers
EAA Flight Advisor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Perry Rhoads" <perryrhoads(at)ctnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Insurance Exclusions? |
All this is telling you is that you can't be liable to yourself. If you kill
yourself in your airplane, the Bodily Injury doesn't apply.
You still have Bodily Injury protection if you injure or kill someone else
with your aircraft.
ALL liability policies( auto, general liability, homeowners,etc) read this
way, as they should.
Perry Rhoads
RV-3
N96GW
----- Original Message -----
From: <LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Insurance Exclusions?
>
> Hi All,
>
> In my insurance policy, PART TWO - EXCLUSIONS, I read the following
sentence:
>
> This insurance does not apply:
> 2. to any claim YOU, YOUR survivors or YOUR estate makes for BODILY INJURY
or
> death to YOU.
>
> Does anyone else have this same exclusion in their policy?
>
> I believe this means that as the aircraft and policy owner I am NEVER
covered
> for bodily injury, since it is part of the liability coverage.
> It doesn't matter if I have a single place, two place or four place
aircraft,
> as the policy/aircraft owner I am not covered by the liability bodily
injury
> portion of the aircraft insurance policy.
>
> My policy also allows $1,000 medical coverage. But that's medical
coverage,
> not liability coverage.
>
> If your policy reads the same as mine, it might be worth knowing when you
> think about the first flight of your airplane.
>
> A "non owner" (flight test pilot) flying your airplane is covered by the
> bodily injury portion of your liability insurance, while, being the
"owner", you
> are not covered by the liability bodily injury portion of the same policy.
>
> Jim Ayers
> EAA Flight Advisor
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon and Marge" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Right throttle, Left throttle... Thats the ? |
Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)
Subject: RV-List: Right throttle, Left throttle... Thats the ?
OK you ole timers and vastly experienced pilots here goes.
I have been flying my 6 for the past 2 years left seat right throttle
for 1200 hours. Its as comfortable as comfortable can be. In preparation
for my 8, I have been flying right seat left throttle in the 6 just to
get a feel and begin a transition. After 10 or so of these awarkward
flights, I am now asking myself, " Why a left throttle in a tandem?"
I have no doubt I could soon become comfortable with the stick in the
right hand, but will I ever be able to write with my left hand? Push
buttons and turn knobs with my left hand as well as my right? I am
wondering why I shouldn't just put the throttle in the 8 on the right
side. My good friend Stu McCurdy has a neat pedestal arrangement on the
right floor holding up his kneeboard so he can easily write when flying.
Means he has to switch hands to do it. When flying in my 6, writing and
knob turning from the right seat meant switching hands. "Why am I
switching hands?" I ask myself. This is dumb.
---
Michael: I started flying in Air Knockers--left throttle, control
stick. Later, Cessna 140, right throttle, left hand control wheel.
Then a Fairchild 24W, right throttle, left hand control stick, but to
start with in that airplane I flew from the right seat, left throttle
and right hand on the stick because the instructor needed to have the
only brakes until he thought I would not likely groundloop it. I never
became very comfortable in the right seat, perhaps because I was there
for only a few hours. I flew the RV-9, left hand stick, right hand
throttle. Gliders had no throttle so either hand on the stick. Quite a
few hours in conventional 4/6 place aircraft.
The point of all this is that it probably doesn't matter a whole lot.
If you have not flown much from the right seat (in anything), that may
be part of the source of your discomfort. Much has been made of the
need to switch hands when performing various tasks but I have found it
to be absolutely a non problem. The switch occurs without thought and
essentially as quickly as if you had not switched hands. It is difficult
to design a cockpit where switching hands is not required, at least
occasionally. The configuration that does not appeal to me is one where
side sticks are used because the switching hands option is not really
available. I have only flown a glider with this arrangement.
Again, it probably doesn't matter very much which way you go. It might
be helpful to spend some time thinking about various flight conditions,
short flights, long flights, radio use, need to write things down, and
consider where your hands will be most comfortable all things
considered.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Plexi Drilling Question |
| From: | tacaruth(at)ralcorp.com |
07/06/2004 12:49:01 PM
Hi All,
I've been working on my sliding canopy and am at the point of final
drilling the holes for the pop rivets around the front frame. I've
followed the instructions and have pilot drilled the holes with a #40 drill
bit and have countersunk to the proper depth. The problem I'm having is
choosing the final drill size for these holes. A 5/32" plexiglass bit
makes too large a hole as the rivet does not have enough shoulder for the
rivet head to rest on. A 1/8" plexiglass bit is too small. My unibit has
1/32" steps which are either too small or too large. When I called Van's
with this question, they said to use a #27 or #28 bit. That's great except
for their warnings about using a standard drill bit to enlarge a hole. A
call to Cleveland Tools got the advise to use a #28 that had been dulled
with a sharpening stone. What have others done? Van's instructions seem
to lead a builder to a no-win situation.
Thanks in advance,
Tom, RV-7A, slo-build
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Plexi Drilling Question |
With a grinding wheel grind off the cutting edge of the drill. This will
turn it into more like a scraper, worked great for me. I got this info in a
plastics class I had in college.......a few years ago.
>
>
>Hi All,
>
>I've been working on my sliding canopy and am at the point of final
>drilling the holes for the pop rivets around the front frame. I've
>followed the instructions and have pilot drilled the holes with a #40 drill
>bit and have countersunk to the proper depth. The problem I'm having is
>choosing the final drill size for these holes. A 5/32" plexiglass bit
>makes too large a hole as the rivet does not have enough shoulder for the
>rivet head to rest on. A 1/8" plexiglass bit is too small. My unibit has
>1/32" steps which are either too small or too large. When I called Van's
>with this question, they said to use a #27 or #28 bit. That's great except
>for their warnings about using a standard drill bit to enlarge a hole. A
>call to Cleveland Tools got the advise to use a #28 that had been dulled
>with a sharpening stone. What have others done? Van's instructions seem
>to lead a builder to a no-win situation.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Tom, RV-7A, slo-build
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Plexi Drilling Question |
tacaruth(at)ralcorp.com wrote:
>
>
>Hi All,
>
>I've been working on my sliding canopy and am at the point of final
>drilling the holes for the pop rivets around the front frame. I've
>followed the instructions and have pilot drilled the holes with a #40 drill
>bit and have countersunk to the proper depth. The problem I'm having is
>choosing the final drill size for these holes. A 5/32" plexiglass bit
>makes too large a hole as the rivet does not have enough shoulder for the
>rivet head to rest on. A 1/8" plexiglass bit is too small. My unibit has
>1/32" steps which are either too small or too large. When I called Van's
>with this question, they said to use a #27 or #28 bit. That's great except
>for their warnings about using a standard drill bit to enlarge a hole. A
>call to Cleveland Tools got the advise to use a #28 that had been dulled
>with a sharpening stone. What have others done? Van's instructions seem
>to lead a builder to a no-win situation.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Tom, RV-7A, slo-build
>
>
Now you've got me worried. I did as the directions said and drilled my
holes to 5/32" with a plexiglass bit. I did not check the fit of the
rivet. Please somebody tell me that what I did is the correct thing to
have done!
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Plexi Drilling Question |
I dont remember the exact size hole to use but on my 8a I made the holes
about .040 larger than the screws I used. I wanted room for the canopy to
squirm a little. No rivets for me.
>
>tacaruth(at)ralcorp.com wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >Hi All,
> >
> >I've been working on my sliding canopy and am at the point of final
> >drilling the holes for the pop rivets around the front frame. I've
> >followed the instructions and have pilot drilled the holes with a #40 drill
> >bit and have countersunk to the proper depth. The problem I'm having is
> >choosing the final drill size for these holes. A 5/32" plexiglass bit
> >makes too large a hole as the rivet does not have enough shoulder for the
> >rivet head to rest on. A 1/8" plexiglass bit is too small. My unibit has
> >1/32" steps which are either too small or too large. When I called Van's
> >with this question, they said to use a #27 or #28 bit. That's great except
> >for their warnings about using a standard drill bit to enlarge a hole. A
> >call to Cleveland Tools got the advise to use a #28 that had been dulled
> >with a sharpening stone. What have others done? Van's instructions seem
> >to lead a builder to a no-win situation.
> >
> >Thanks in advance,
> >Tom, RV-7A, slo-build
> >
> >
>Now you've got me worried. I did as the directions said and drilled my
>holes to 5/32" with a plexiglass bit. I did not check the fit of the
>rivet. Please somebody tell me that what I did is the correct thing to
>have done!
>
>--
>Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
>Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
>RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Cunningham" <benandginny(at)insightbb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Plexi Drilling Question |
On the RV7 tipup the plans call for 5/32" holes in the plexi all around. I
enlarged the #30 hole using a unibit that has 1/32" steps. Also, with plexi
bits readily available, why would you risk a crack by using anything but the
best ones you can buy? The 7 tip up plans also call for using AN507-6R8
screws and nuts all around. No pulled rivets at all..... I have not checked
the plans for a slider, so I don't know about them.
Ben Cunningham
RV7 71313
Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bobby Hester" <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Plexi Drilling Question
>
> tacaruth(at)ralcorp.com wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >Hi All,
> >
> >I've been working on my sliding canopy and am at the point of final
> >drilling the holes for the pop rivets around the front frame. I've
> >followed the instructions and have pilot drilled the holes with a #40
drill
> >bit and have countersunk to the proper depth. The problem I'm having is
> >choosing the final drill size for these holes. A 5/32" plexiglass bit
> >makes too large a hole as the rivet does not have enough shoulder for the
> >rivet head to rest on. A 1/8" plexiglass bit is too small. My unibit
has
> >1/32" steps which are either too small or too large. When I called Van's
> >with this question, they said to use a #27 or #28 bit. That's great
except
> >for their warnings about using a standard drill bit to enlarge a hole. A
> >call to Cleveland Tools got the advise to use a #28 that had been dulled
> >with a sharpening stone. What have others done? Van's instructions seem
> >to lead a builder to a no-win situation.
> >
> >Thanks in advance,
> >Tom, RV-7A, slo-build
> >
> >
> Now you've got me worried. I did as the directions said and drilled my
> holes to 5/32" with a plexiglass bit. I did not check the fit of the
> rivet. Please somebody tell me that what I did is the correct thing to
> have done!
>
> --
> Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
List-Unsubscribe:
| Subject: | Re: Plexi Drilling Question |
tacaruth(at)ralcorp.com wrote:
>
>
>Hi All,
>
>I've been working on my sliding canopy and am at the point of final
>drilling the holes for the pop rivets around the front frame. I've
>followed the instructions and have pilot drilled the holes with a #40 drill
>bit and have countersunk to the proper depth. The problem I'm having is
>choosing the final drill size for these holes. A 5/32" plexiglass bit
>makes too large a hole as the rivet does not have enough shoulder for the
>rivet head to rest on. A 1/8" plexiglass bit is too small. My unibit has
>1/32" steps which are either too small or too large. When I called Van's
>with this question, they said to use a #27 or #28 bit. That's great except
>for their warnings about using a standard drill bit to enlarge a hole. A
>call to Cleveland Tools got the advise to use a #28 that had been dulled
>with a sharpening stone. What have others done? Van's instructions seem
>to lead a builder to a no-win situation.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Tom, RV-7A, slo-build
>
>
Now you've got me worried. I did as the directions said and drilled my
holes to 5/32" with a plexiglass bit. I did not check the fit of the
rivet. Please somebody tell me that what I did is the correct thing to
have done!
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
http://us.click.yahoo.com/Z1wmxD/DREIAA/yQLSAA/1yWplB/TM
Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
www.vansaircraft.net
<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV7and7A/
<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
RV7and7A-unsubscribe(at)yahoogroups.com
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Insurance Exclusions? |
JT,
My life policies through USAA (which I'm sure many RV drivers are eligible)
allowed me the option of excluding aviation activities. Obviously, a lower
premium if I elected to do so but in no case did they deny me coverage if I
elected to cover those activities.
Rick McBride
In a message dated 7/6/04 1:10:03 PM Eastern Daylight Time, jhelms(at)i1.net
writes:
>
> It's that way on all aviation policies. You, as the owner, purchase the
> liability portion of your insurance coverage to protect yourself from lawsuits
> from others that arise out of the use of or the ownership of your plane. The
> liability coverage is not designed to be a life or health policy for you (the
> owner).
>
> The medical coverages normally are afforded to the owner. That is because
> most companies include the crew for that coverage.
>
> Just to throw a wrench into things, the typical Life Insurance policy
> excludes coverage while you are operating an aircraft or are a passenger of an
> unscheduled flight. Normally, they will include coverage for you while you are
> flying as a passenger on a commercial airline. There are very few policies
> which don't address that issue. www.piclife.com is a website I've referred
> pilots to for years. The agent is an Allstate agent, and at least the last time
> I heard, he was the only Allstate agent in the country who could add
> coverage for aircraft owners thru Allstate.
>
> JT
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 2004 11:38 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Insurance Exclusions?
>
>
>
> Hi All,
>
> In my insurance policy, PART TWO - EXCLUSIONS, I read the following
> sentence:
>
> This insurance does not apply:
> 2. to any claim YOU, YOUR survivors or YOUR estate makes for BODILY INJURY
> or
> death to YOU.
>
> Does anyone else have this same exclusion in their policy?
>
> I believe this means that as the aircraft and policy owner I am NEVER
> covered
> for bodily injury, since it is part of the liability coverage.
> It doesn't matter if I have a single place, two place or four place
> aircraft,
> as the policy/aircraft owner I am not covered by the liability bodily
> injury
> portion of the aircraft insurance policy.
>
> My policy also allows $1,000 medical coverage. But that's medical
> coverage,
> not liability coverage.
>
> If your policy reads the same as mine, it might be worth knowing when you
> think about the first flight of your airplane.
>
> A "non owner" (flight test pilot) flying your airplane is covered by the
> bodily injury portion of your liability insurance, while, being the
> "owner", you
> are not covered by the liability bodily injury portion of the same policy.
>
> Jim Ayers
> EAA Flight Advisor
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Plexi Drilling Question |
| From: | tacaruth(at)ralcorp.com |
07/06/2004 05:24:41 PM
Ben,
The only plexiglass bits available are 1/8" and 5/32". The 1/8" are too
small and the 5/32" are too large. Therein lies the problem. The plans
call for AACQ-4-4 pulled rivets for the front bow of the canopy frame. The
smallest step in a unibit I can find is 1/32", which would go from 1/8" to
5/32". What I need is a 9/64" plexiglass bit. Anyone know where to get
such an animal?
Thanks, Tom
"Ben Cunningham"
To
Sent by:
owner-rv-list-ser cc
ver(at)matronics.com
Subject
Re: RV-List: Plexi Drilling
07/06/2004 04:02 Question
PM
Please respond to
rv-list@matronics
.com
On the RV7 tipup the plans call for 5/32" holes in the plexi all around. I
enlarged the #30 hole using a unibit that has 1/32" steps. Also, with plexi
bits readily available, why would you risk a crack by using anything but
the
best ones you can buy? The 7 tip up plans also call for using AN507-6R8
screws and nuts all around. No pulled rivets at all..... I have not checked
the plans for a slider, so I don't know about them.
Ben Cunningham
RV7 71313
Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bobby Hester" <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Plexi Drilling Question
>
> tacaruth(at)ralcorp.com wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >Hi All,
> >
> >I've been working on my sliding canopy and am at the point of final
> >drilling the holes for the pop rivets around the front frame. I've
> >followed the instructions and have pilot drilled the holes with a #40
drill
> >bit and have countersunk to the proper depth. The problem I'm having is
> >choosing the final drill size for these holes. A 5/32" plexiglass bit
> >makes too large a hole as the rivet does not have enough shoulder for
the
> >rivet head to rest on. A 1/8" plexiglass bit is too small. My unibit
has
> >1/32" steps which are either too small or too large. When I called
Van's
> >with this question, they said to use a #27 or #28 bit. That's great
except
> >for their warnings about using a standard drill bit to enlarge a hole.
A
> >call to Cleveland Tools got the advise to use a #28 that had been dulled
> >with a sharpening stone. What have others done? Van's instructions
seem
> >to lead a builder to a no-win situation.
> >
> >Thanks in advance,
> >Tom, RV-7A, slo-build
> >
> >
> Now you've got me worried. I did as the directions said and drilled my
> holes to 5/32" with a plexiglass bit. I did not check the fit of the
> rivet. Please somebody tell me that what I did is the correct thing to
> have done!
>
> --
> Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
>
>
If you are not the intended addressee indicated in this message (or
responsible for delivery of the message to such person), you may not copy
message and kindly notify the sender by reply email. Please advise
immediately if you or your employer do not consent to internet email for
messages of this kind.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Plexi Drilling Question |
Take your #27 bit to a grinding stone and grind a 60 deg. angle to the
tip and it will work fine!
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: <tacaruth(at)ralcorp.com>
Subject: [rv_list] RV-List: Plexi Drilling Question
>
>
> Hi All,
>
> I've been working on my sliding canopy and am at the point of final
> drilling the holes for the pop rivets around the front frame. I've
> followed the instructions and have pilot drilled the holes with a #40
drill
> bit and have countersunk to the proper depth. The problem I'm having is
> choosing the final drill size for these holes. A 5/32" plexiglass bit
> makes too large a hole as the rivet does not have enough shoulder for the
> rivet head to rest on. A 1/8" plexiglass bit is too small. My unibit has
> 1/32" steps which are either too small or too large. When I called Van's
> with this question, they said to use a #27 or #28 bit. That's great
except
> for their warnings about using a standard drill bit to enlarge a hole. A
> call to Cleveland Tools got the advise to use a #28 that had been dulled
> with a sharpening stone. What have others done? Van's instructions seem
> to lead a builder to a no-win situation.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Tom, RV-7A, slo-build
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Plexi Drilling Question |
tacaruth(at)ralcorp.com wrote:
>
>
>Ben,
>
>The only plexiglass bits available are 1/8" and 5/32". The 1/8" are too
>small and the 5/32" are too large. Therein lies the problem. The plans
>call for AACQ-4-4 pulled rivets for the front bow of the canopy frame. The
>smallest step in a unibit I can find is 1/32", which would go from 1/8" to
>5/32". What I need is a 9/64" plexiglass bit. Anyone know where to get
>such an animal?
>
>Thanks, Tom
>
>
>
Tom, I haven't checked the fit yet. I do know that the hole must be
bigger than the rivet to allow the plexiglass to move with temp.
changes. The holes will crack if they are not bigger than normally used
in metal.
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Plexi Drilling Question |
>
>
>Ben,
>
>The only plexiglass bits available are 1/8" and 5/32". The 1/8" are too
>small and the 5/32" are too large. Therein lies the problem. The plans
>call for AACQ-4-4 pulled rivets for the front bow of the canopy frame. The
>smallest step in a unibit I can find is 1/32", which would go from 1/8" to
>5/32". What I need is a 9/64" plexiglass bit. Anyone know where to get
>such an animal?
>
>Thanks, Tom
A Google for "plastic drill 9/64" turned up:
http://www.abbeon.com/newFiles/plexidrill.html
I have no idea how good they are. I though I bought my 9/64
plexiglas drill bit from Aircraft Spruce, but they don't list one on
their web site now.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "davercook" <davercook(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Plexi Drilling Question |
Take the plexie off drill 5/32 ,drill the frame #30
Dave Cook
----- Original Message -----
From: <tacaruth(at)ralcorp.com>
Subject: RV-List: Plexi Drilling Question
>
>
> Hi All,
>
> I've been working on my sliding canopy and am at the point of final
> drilling the holes for the pop rivets around the front frame. I've
> followed the instructions and have pilot drilled the holes with a #40
drill
> bit and have countersunk to the proper depth. The problem I'm having is
> choosing the final drill size for these holes. A 5/32" plexiglass bit
> makes too large a hole as the rivet does not have enough shoulder for the
> rivet head to rest on. A 1/8" plexiglass bit is too small. My unibit has
> 1/32" steps which are either too small or too large. When I called Van's
> with this question, they said to use a #27 or #28 bit. That's great
except
> for their warnings about using a standard drill bit to enlarge a hole. A
> call to Cleveland Tools got the advise to use a #28 that had been dulled
> with a sharpening stone. What have others done? Van's instructions seem
> to lead a builder to a no-win situation.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Tom, RV-7A, slo-build
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Right throttle, Left throttle... Thats the ? |
>
>
>Let me be a little clearer.
>I feel the finesse of flying the plane can be done with either hand,
>both stick and throttle.
>
>But other duties, like writing, knob turning, button pushing and so
>forth, will always be bad with the weak hand. When bumping around in the
>soup for example and getting new freqs, or pulling up the approach in a
>430, when accuracy and feel are critical, would you want to put stick in
>left hand and do those functions with the right?
>
In my experience, your left hand will learn to get very good at
button twiddling and knob twisting, if you give it a bit of time.
But I agree that you will always want to write with your right hand
(all this spoken from the context of someone who is right-handed).
It has also been my experience that it is quite rare to have to write
something when I am in a situation where I can't take my hand off the
throttle and switch hands. I would be willing to take my hand off
the throttle any time except short final, or when flying formation on
someone.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)comcast.net> |
Hi gang.
In a recent post, someone mentioned that they use an oxygen sensor to
adjust their mixture setting. About 4 or 5 years ago, there was a long
string of posts about the use of oxygen sensors. Several builders were
going to try them. But the results were never posted or updated. If any of
you have a good understanding and have had good results using O/S's to help
adjust mixture, please let us know. I would love to have something other
than my EGT gauge.
Louis
-
Louis I Willig
1640 Oakwood Dr.
Penn Valley, PA 19072
610 668-4964
RV-4, N180PF
190HP IO-360, C/S prop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Right throttle, Left throttle... Thats the ? |
>
> Why not just rig the plane for left stick right throttle,
> right hand free to do the things its really good at, keep the
> stick is the left hand, and do those writing/knob pushing
> items with the right/strong hand.
>
> I write a lot. Notes, weather, formation debrief items,
> frequencies, etc...
Mike, congratulations on 1200 hours in two years! I don't know if
anyone's done that before. Maybe Rosales (sp?).
If you prefer the throttle on the right side, put it there. Resale is
the only consideration, everything else is preference only. If you are
creative, you could design things so that the throttle quadrant can be
moved to the other side with minimal rework effort in the event you sell
it or change your mind.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 493 hours (still waiting for summer!)
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oxygen sensor |
At 19:14 2004-07-06, you wrote:
>
>Hi gang.
>
>In a recent post, someone mentioned that they use an oxygen sensor to
>adjust their mixture setting. About 4 or 5 years ago, there was a long
>string of posts about the use of oxygen sensors. Several builders were
>going to try them. But the results were never posted or updated. If any of
>you have a good understanding and have had good results using O/S's to help
>adjust mixture, please let us know. I would love to have something other
>than my EGT gauge.
>
>Louis
>
>
>-
>Louis I Willig
>1640 Oakwood Dr.
>Penn Valley, PA 19072
>610 668-4964
>RV-4, N180PF
>190HP IO-360, C/S prop
Oxygen sensors for exhaust gas are designed and optimized for smog control
on cars. Your EGT gauge is telling you directly how much you are abusing
(or not) your rosy red exhaust valves. Having an O2 sensor on a Lycoming
would just be eye candy and using it to replace your EGT would - in my
humble opinion - be risky at best. Why have something you would have to
translate when you can read it directly with a good EGT?
Us alternative engine guys will sometimes use O2 sensors to help the engine
control computer or to manually develop the fuel maps for the
computer. After that they're eye candy.
Contrary to some stories they will work with 100LL in the above
situations. The lead will slow down the response but not so much that the
light bar on the mixture meter on your panel won't tell you what you
want. It would be too slow for a car's computer to be able to pass DEQ.
Just an opinion from a controls engineer.
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
13B in gestation mode, RD-1C, EC-2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Cracks in rudder skin - looking for suggestions |
This past weekend, I noticed the first two cracks in the skin of the rudder
on my -4. I have 200+ hours on the aircraft. It has an IO-360 (180 hp)
with a CS prop. The cracks are not much of a surprise, but are
disappointing nonetheless. The cracks propagate from two of the most forward
rivets holding two of the skin stiffeners to the right-side rudder skin. I
have stop-drilled the cracks and continue to fly, but plan to start the
fabrication of a new rudder immediately.
My rudder has the older 0.016" skin and has RTV in the trailing edge. I
plan to use 0.020" skin for the new rudder and will use Pro-Seal in lieu of
silicone at the trailing edge. In addition, I plan to use Pro-Seal, in
addition to rivets, to attach the skin stiffeners.
Are there any (other) suggestions that I can consider in order to build a
more durable rudder the second time around? Any ideas are most appreciated.
Dean Pichon
RV-4
Bolton, MA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Plexi Drilling Question |
| From: | tacaruth(at)ralcorp.com |
07/07/2004 07:41:56 AM
As stated earlier, a 5/32" hole is too large for the head of the rivet to
hold properly unless a piece of aluminum is over the top. There is no
cover over the holes in the forward slider frame. The rivets rest on the
plexiglass. I got this info directly from Van's phone support.
As others have already suggested, I took a #28 drill and ground down the
tip to resemble the tip of a plexiglasss bit. After doing this, I drilled
the holes last night with no problem. I had the drill so slow that I could
almost count the RPM. Also, I hardly pushed on the drill.
Thanks for all the advise.
Tom,
RV-7A, Finishing canopy (I hope)
"davercook"
To
Sent by:
owner-rv-list-ser cc
ver(at)matronics.com
Subject
Re: RV-List: Plexi Drilling
07/06/2004 07:59 Question
PM
Please respond to
rv-list@matronics
.com
Take the plexie off drill 5/32 ,drill the frame #30
Dave Cook
----- Original Message -----
From: <tacaruth(at)ralcorp.com>
Subject: RV-List: Plexi Drilling Question
>
>
> Hi All,
>
> I've been working on my sliding canopy and am at the point of final
> drilling the holes for the pop rivets around the front frame. I've
> followed the instructions and have pilot drilled the holes with a #40
drill
> bit and have countersunk to the proper depth. The problem I'm having is
> choosing the final drill size for these holes. A 5/32" plexiglass bit
> makes too large a hole as the rivet does not have enough shoulder for the
> rivet head to rest on. A 1/8" plexiglass bit is too small. My unibit
has
> 1/32" steps which are either too small or too large. When I called Van's
> with this question, they said to use a #27 or #28 bit. That's great
except
> for their warnings about using a standard drill bit to enlarge a hole. A
> call to Cleveland Tools got the advise to use a #28 that had been dulled
> with a sharpening stone. What have others done? Van's instructions seem
> to lead a builder to a no-win situation.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Tom, RV-7A, slo-build
>
>
If you are not the intended addressee indicated in this message (or
responsible for delivery of the message to such person), you may not copy
message and kindly notify the sender by reply email. Please advise
immediately if you or your employer do not consent to internet email for
messages of this kind.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Cracks in rudder skin - looking for suggestions |
>
> This past weekend, I noticed the first two cracks in the skin
> of the rudder
> on my -4. I have 200+ hours on the aircraft. It has an
> IO-360 (180 hp)
> with a CS prop. The cracks are not much of a surprise, but are
> disappointing nonetheless. The cracks propagate from two of
> the most forward
> rivets holding two of the skin stiffeners to the right-side
> rudder skin. I
> have stop-drilled the cracks and continue to fly, but plan to
> start the
> fabrication of a new rudder immediately.
>
> My rudder has the older 0.016" skin and has RTV in the
> trailing edge. I
My same setup on a 6A cracked at around 200 hours in those same places,
requiring about 7 or 8 stop drill holes. I have an additional 300 hours
now, no additional cracking. I initially planned to rebuild the rudder,
but don't plan to now. If my plane wasn't painted, I'd probably build a
new one.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 493 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cracks in rudder skin - looking for suggestions |
On the Pink Panther, I put "click" patches (Aircraft Spruce part # 04-0615)
over the rivets after they were stop drilled and never had another problem.
I did lots of acro, including hammerheads etc. I think I had four patches
on the rudder and that was the end of it. no more cracking, the cracks never
propagated any further once the click patches were installed. They are
$11.50 each, very thin, and nearly invisible.
They also fix leaky rivets on fuel tanks which is what they were originally
designed for.....
Doug Rozendaal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Howard Walrath <der_jagdflieger(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Operating Efficiently Lean Of Peak |
The recent rv-list posts on EI versus magnetoes
for LOP operation was interesting and informative.
Several posters pointed out that a matched set of
injectors was key to efficient operation Lean Of Peak.
The Van's Airforce World Wide Wing homepage
has an article on this subject I wrote that was in EAA Chapter 168's newsletter.
The url for the
Van's Airforce World Wide Wing homepage
homepage is www.vansairforce.net . The
"THE RV NEWS" column on the homepage
discusses the article andcontains a link to the
entire issue.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Operating Efficiently Lean Of Peak |
Can you narrow down the location a little more, I am having trouble finding
the article.
>
>The recent rv-list posts on EI versus magnetoes
>for LOP operation was interesting and informative.
>Several posters pointed out that a matched set of
>injectors was key to efficient operation Lean Of Peak.
>
>
>The Van's Airforce World Wide Wing homepage
>has an article on this subject I wrote that was in EAA Chapter 168's
>newsletter. The url for the
>Van's Airforce World Wide Wing homepage
>homepage is www.vansairforce.net . The
>"THE RV NEWS" column on the homepage
>discusses the article andcontains a link to the
>entire issue.
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Plexi Drilling Question |
| From: | "Lockamy, Jack L" <jack.lockamy(at)navy.mil> |
Why is 5/32" too large? It worked well for me and I'm sure thousands of other
RV's that have the same plans and instructions....
The pulled/pop/blind rivets fit perfectly if you countersunk the plexi BEFORE opening
up the holes to 5/32" (as mentioned in my construction manual).
Jack
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cracks in rudder skin - looking for suggestions |
Tracy Crook wrote:
>
>
> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Pichon" >
>
>
> >
> > This past weekend, I noticed the first two cracks in the skin
> > of the rudder
> > on my -4. I have 200+ hours on the aircraft. It has an
> > IO-360 (180 hp)
> > with a CS prop. The cracks are not much of a surprise, but are
> > disappointing nonetheless. The cracks propagate from two of
> > the most forward
> > rivets holding two of the skin stiffeners to the right-side
> > rudder skin. I
> > have stop-drilled the cracks and continue to fly, but plan to
> > start the
> > fabrication of a new rudder immediately.
> >
> > My rudder has the older 0.016" skin and has RTV in the
> > trailing edge. I
>
> Dean, It's that vibrating thing on the nose that does it.
> Sorry guys, couldn't stop myself.
>
> Tracy Crook
> Rotary powered RV-4, 1425 hrs, .016 rudder skins, no cracks. (I promise to
stop now)
I suspect the rudder cracks are caused not by the vibrating thing on the
nose but the pounding airflow on the right side of the airframe caused
by that blade-like thing on the nose (which even the rotary-powered
planes must carry around). :-)
All the cracked rudders I have seen (including the one on my RV-6) have
cracks on the right side of the rudder. Wonder if they might also be the
result of holding right rudder during takeoffs and climbs?
Maybe the rotary powered planes don't have this problem because they
don't produce as much torque as the Lycomings during takeoff..... :-)
Doug, please research the part number you posted for the click patches;
I can't get that number to work on Spruce's site (comes up with Cherry
rivets).
Sam Buchanan (RV-6 with lumpy vibrating thing bolted to nose)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Prior" <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Right throttle, Left throttle... Thats the |
On 7:18 06/07/2004 Tedd McHenry wrote:
> I can appreciate your not wanting to switch from what you have the most
> experience with. All my early flying was with the military
> configuration, and I doubt I'll ever feel comfortable the other way.
> (Some people say they quickly learned to change hands. I say you don't
> know until you try formation. If someone flies formation well both ways,
> with equal comfort, then they've made the switch.)
For what it's worth, here's another data point.
I grew up at my local airport, and over the years had many rides in many
different aircraft. Always, I was right-hand-stick, left-hand-throttle
(RHS-LHT), in every airplane. In any side-by-side aircraft, I would always
be in the right seat. In any tandem, it didn't matter which seat.
When I did my private license, I flew Cessna 152's exclusively, from the
left seat. I don't recall the transition to left-hand-stick,
right-hand-throttle (LHS-RHT) being a problem, but I was still relatively
green as a pilot. After the 45 hours for my license, I switched to our
club's tandem-seat homebuilt, and back to RHS-LHT. I *immediately* felt
more comfortable. About 200 hours later, I started learning formation
flying, and eventually transitioned to RV's and have been helping to give
formation instruction to others.
I recently had my first experience flying an RV-6 in formation from the
left seat (until now i've been in RV-6 right seat, or RV-6 left seat with
dual throttles, or tandem-seat configurations). That was a real challenge,
every time I wanted a power correction I would fly up or down out of
position, and every time I wanted a vertical position correction I would
move ahead and back, as my "formation hands" were still thinking in
reverse. It took most of that hour's flight to get even slightly
comfortable holding position, and the landing back at the airport was all
over the place for the same reasons.
So, i've decided that my RV will have a left-hand throttle for the pilot.
Either it will be center-mounted and available to both seats, and I will
fly it from the right seat, or it will be left-side mounted, and will be
only available to the left seat. I find I can operate anything on the dash
fine with my left hand, and I usually don't need to write anything down
while flying... The times I do, I can switch hands.
Just my $0.02.
-Rob Prior
RV-7 Empennage
rv7 "at" b4.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Bibb" <rebibb(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Right throttle, Left throttle... Thats the |
I fly a Mooney and an AT-6. Never had any problem switching back and
forth....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "923te" <923te(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Click patches ?? |
> Doug, please research the part number you posted for the click patches;
> I can't get that number to work on Spruce's site (comes up with Cherry
> rivets).
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6 with lumpy vibrating thing bolted to nose)
>
I got the same rivets for that part number. Please post more info on the
click patches
Thanks,
Ned
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Insurance Exclusions? |
Hi All,
Why do you guys sound so upset?
If I do not carry passengers in my RV-3. And if I don't have other pilots
flying my RV-3. The liability insurance for bodily injury "including passengers
and crew" provides me no coverage whatsoever.
And it would cost me $300 a year for the RV-3.
I have had nonowner named pilots listed on my policy, and the liability
coverage "including passengers and crew" was applied to protect me and to protect
them.
When I removed the named pilots, the additional coverage was retained because
I didn't ask to have it removed.
If there is another RV pilot on this list that has this situation, this
exchange could be of some benefit.
I suggested that JT put this into "insurance speak" in the previous Emails on
insurance.
Is it easier to engage in character assassination than to provide information?
From what I read from JT before, he couldn't write my policy. He said he has
a $400 minimum for the policies he writes. I don't remember if he put this
on the list, or just sent it to me.
Somehow I'm sure I'll be told I'm wrong about that. :-)
Jim Ayers
RV-3 Maroon Marauder
In a message dated 07/07/2004 12:00:12 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
From: "Perry Rhoads" <perryrhoads(at)ctnet.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Insurance Exclusions?
All this is telling you is that you can't be liable to yourself. If you kill
yourself in your airplane, the Bodily Injury doesn't apply.
You still have Bodily Injury protection if you injure or kill someone else
with your aircraft.
ALL liability policies( auto, general liability, homeowners,etc) read this
way, as they should.
Perry Rhoads
RV-3
N96GW
----- Original Message -----
From: <LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Insurance Exclusions?
>
> Hi All,
>
> In my insurance policy, PART TWO - EXCLUSIONS, I read the following
sentence:
>
> This insurance does not apply:
> 2. to any claim YOU, YOUR survivors or YOUR estate makes for BODILY INJURY
or
> death to YOU.
>
> Does anyone else have this same exclusion in their policy?
>
> I believe this means that as the aircraft and policy owner I am NEVER
covered
> for bodily injury, since it is part of the liability coverage.
> It doesn't matter if I have a single place, two place or four place
aircraft,
> as the policy/aircraft owner I am not covered by the liability bodily
injury
> portion of the aircraft insurance policy.
>
> My policy also allows $1,000 medical coverage. But that's medical
coverage,
> not liability coverage.
>
> If your policy reads the same as mine, it might be worth knowing when you
> think about the first flight of your airplane.
>
> A "non owner" (flight test pilot) flying your airplane is covered by the
> bodily injury portion of your liability insurance, while, being the
"owner", you
> are not covered by the liability bodily injury portion of the same policy.
>
> Jim Ayers
> EAA Flight Advisor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | N766DH First Flight! |
Hello All RVers,
RV-7A N766DH (Kit number 70066 -- pretty original huh?) took me for a
wonderful ride last evening, the same day the inspection was signed off.
No problems at all with the airplane. It was a little hazy and I kept losing
the airport since it was not my home field and the RV covers 2 or 3 miles
very quickly! So I hate to admit it, but much of the flight was spent trying to
locate the airport. That happened maybe 3 times! It is a 2000 foot grass
strip (8I3 near Kokomo, IN). Of course I was concerned about the landing, but
it
went perfectly.
What a dream of an airplane. Let me tell you, it is certainly worth all the
effort spent building to finally fly it. I have so much yet to learn about it
though, but it seems friendly enough.
Thank the Lord, my wife and Vans, and of course all the help that comes from
those of you on the rv-list.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (Starting Phase I flight testing)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Cracks in rudder skin - looking for suggestions |
> I suspect the rudder cracks are caused not by the vibrating
> thing on the
> nose but the pounding airflow on the right side of the
> airframe caused
> by that blade-like thing on the nose (which even the rotary-powered
> planes must carry around). :-)
FWIW, the cracks on my rudder on equally distributed on both the left
and right sides.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 493 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob 1" <rv3a(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Insurance Exclusions? |
> Hi All,
>
> Why do you guys sound so upset?
Looks to be the other way 'round from my RV-3 seat.
> If I do not carry passengers in my RV-3. And if I don't have other pilots
> flying my RV-3. The liability insurance for bodily injury "including
passengers
> and crew" provides me no coverage whatsoever.
> And it would cost me $300 a year for the RV-3.
>
> I have had nonowner named pilots listed on my policy, and the liability
> coverage "including passengers and crew" was applied to protect me and to
protect
> them.
> When I removed the named pilots, the additional coverage was retained
because
> I didn't ask to have it removed.
>
> If there is another RV pilot on this list that has this situation, this
> exchange could be of some benefit.
I fly an RV-3 and never have had an issue with NationAir over liability.
I've enjoyed the single seat savings from day one. That was more than three
years ago. Further, the liability savings to me is $50 or so, not the $300
you quote... IIRC.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Insurance Exclusions? |
I didn't see anything that seemed to indicate that Perry was upset. He stressed
one word ("ALL") in his post, but that looked as if he did it merely for emphasis.
I certainly didn't see Perry or myself attacking your character.
His response (and mine) endeavored to explain to you that the owner of a plane
purchases liability protection to help protect himself or herself from liabilities
incurred due to the use or ownership of the plane. And, that they aren't
designed to be life insurance or health insurance for the owner.
By the way, yes you're wrong, but I don't mean that in a cruel way. I can write
policies thru AIG for RVs or other aircraft. They do not have a minimum premium,
and are very often the most competitive company for liability only for that
reason. I am AIG's 3rd largest broker. We do write the vast majority of
our Van's Aircraft owners thru the VanGuard Program which is underwritten by a
different company.
I certainly would hope that all RV'ers will benefit from this and any posts I make
regarding insurance, whether I insure them or not. That is why I've endeavored
to correct the incorrect parts of your posts a few weeks ago (re: medical
vs passenger coverage).
JT
----- Original Message -----
From: LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, July 07, 2004 11:09 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-List Insurance Exclusions?
Hi All,
Why do you guys sound so upset?
If I do not carry passengers in my RV-3. And if I don't have other pilots
flying my RV-3. The liability insurance for bodily injury "including passengers
and crew" provides me no coverage whatsoever.
And it would cost me $300 a year for the RV-3.
I have had nonowner named pilots listed on my policy, and the liability
coverage "including passengers and crew" was applied to protect me and to protect
them.
When I removed the named pilots, the additional coverage was retained because
I didn't ask to have it removed.
If there is another RV pilot on this list that has this situation, this
exchange could be of some benefit.
I suggested that JT put this into "insurance speak" in the previous Emails on
insurance.
Is it easier to engage in character assassination than to provide information?
>From what I read from JT before, he couldn't write my policy. He said he has
a $400 minimum for the policies he writes. I don't remember if he put this
on the list, or just sent it to me.
Somehow I'm sure I'll be told I'm wrong about that. :-)
Jim Ayers
RV-3 Maroon Marauder
In a message dated 07/07/2004 12:00:12 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
From: "Perry Rhoads" <perryrhoads(at)ctnet.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Insurance Exclusions?
All this is telling you is that you can't be liable to yourself. If you kill
yourself in your airplane, the Bodily Injury doesn't apply.
You still have Bodily Injury protection if you injure or kill someone else
with your aircraft.
ALL liability policies( auto, general liability, homeowners,etc) read this
way, as they should.
Perry Rhoads
RV-3
N96GW
----- Original Message -----
From: <LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Insurance Exclusions?
>
> Hi All,
>
> In my insurance policy, PART TWO - EXCLUSIONS, I read the following
sentence:
>
> This insurance does not apply:
> 2. to any claim YOU, YOUR survivors or YOUR estate makes for BODILY INJURY
or
> death to YOU.
>
> Does anyone else have this same exclusion in their policy?
>
> I believe this means that as the aircraft and policy owner I am NEVER
covered
> for bodily injury, since it is part of the liability coverage.
> It doesn't matter if I have a single place, two place or four place
aircraft,
> as the policy/aircraft owner I am not covered by the liability bodily
injury
> portion of the aircraft insurance policy.
>
> My policy also allows $1,000 medical coverage. But that's medical
coverage,
> not liability coverage.
>
> If your policy reads the same as mine, it might be worth knowing when you
> think about the first flight of your airplane.
>
> A "non owner" (flight test pilot) flying your airplane is covered by the
> bodily injury portion of your liability insurance, while, being the
"owner", you
> are not covered by the liability bodily injury portion of the same policy.
>
> Jim Ayers
> EAA Flight Advisor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Click patches ?? |
So sorry, P/N 04-06040 I missed a zero......
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/clickbond.php
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
----- Original Message -----
From: "923te" <923te(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Click patches ??
>
> > Doug, please research the part number you posted for the click patches;
> > I can't get that number to work on Spruce's site (comes up with Cherry
> > rivets).
> >
> > Sam Buchanan (RV-6 with lumpy vibrating thing bolted to nose)
> >
>
> I got the same rivets for that part number. Please post more info on the
> click patches
>
> Thanks,
> Ned
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Plexi Drilling Question |
| From: | tacaruth(at)ralcorp.com |
07/07/2004 12:07:49 PM
Van's recommendation was that 5/32 hole for the pulled rivets was too large
for the head of the rivet. Just their opinion. Yours may be different.
Tom
"Lockamy, Jack L"
<jack.lockamy@nav
y.mil> To
Sent by:
owner-rv-list-ser cc
ver(at)matronics.com
Subject
Re: RV-List: Plexi Drilling
07/07/2004 09:21 Question
AM
Please respond to
rv-list@matronics
.com
Why is 5/32" too large? It worked well for me and I'm sure thousands of
other RV's that have the same plans and instructions....
The pulled/pop/blind rivets fit perfectly if you countersunk the plexi
BEFORE opening up the holes to 5/32" (as mentioned in my construction
manual).
Jack
If you are not the intended addressee indicated in this message (or
responsible for delivery of the message to such person), you may not copy
message and kindly notify the sender by reply email. Please advise
immediately if you or your employer do not consent to internet email for
messages of this kind.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Myers <jmyers(at)powernet.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Click patches ?? |
Click fasteners on page 105 of 03-04 catalog
P/N 04-06015 for the repair patch kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oxygen sensor |
I have an Av-Mix oxygen sensor on one pipe of my Vetterman crossover
exhaust. I have had it for around 6 to 7 years, and only needed to replace
the sensor ($20 or so at NAPA) once in that time.
I also have an Electronics International EGT and can cross check it against
the Av-Mix...seems good agreement. Also both those systems come pretty close
to the Lycoming advise of leaning to roughness, then enriching to
smoothness. The difference is pretty small.
I have been setting the mixture on the O-320 for over 400 hours using the
oxygen sensor and haven't hurt a thing.
But, there are folks who want to argue about the benefits of sliced bread
too it seems.
Whatever you like, go for it !
John at Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cracks in rudder skin - looking for suggestions |
Alex Peterson wrote:
> FWIW, the cracks on my rudder on equally distributed on both the left
> and right sides.
>
> Alex Peterson
Bummer, Alex.
By the way, your post prompted my less than perfect memory to recall
that some rudder skins cracked at the spar rivets which Vans suspected
was due to having a too sharp transition to the rolled leading edge at
the spar. But the cracks on older RVs in my area have occurred at the
leading rivet in some of the stiffeners where the skin is most apt to flex.
One of our RV-4 pilots extended the stiffeners and tied them to the spar
when he rebuilt his rudder which resulted in a very stiff rudder skin.
The cracks at three of the stiffeners on my rudder appeared many, many
hours ago underneath the paint and spread about 1/4" but have not spread
further, possibly because the cracks relieved the stress. I will
probably repair the cracks at some point because I don't want the
heavier replacement skin on the tail of my RV-6. The Click patches are
an intriguing option. Thanks for the update on the Spruce numbers, Doug!
Sam Buchanan
http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Serge Boucher" <serge.boucher4(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: N766DH First Flight! |
Congratulation, many more flight looking for airports.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Hopperdhh(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: N766DH First Flight!
>
> Hello All RVers,
>
> RV-7A N766DH (Kit number 70066 -- pretty original huh?) took me for a
> wonderful ride last evening, the same day the inspection was signed off.
>
> No problems at all with the airplane. It was a little hazy and I kept
losing
> the airport since it was not my home field and the RV covers 2 or 3 miles
> very quickly! So I hate to admit it, but much of the flight was spent
trying to
> locate the airport. That happened maybe 3 times! It is a 2000 foot grass
> strip (8I3 near Kokomo, IN). Of course I was concerned about the landing,
but it
> went perfectly.
>
> What a dream of an airplane. Let me tell you, it is certainly worth all
the
> effort spent building to finally fly it. I have so much yet to learn
about it
> though, but it seems friendly enough.
>
> Thank the Lord, my wife and Vans, and of course all the help that comes
from
> those of you on the rv-list.
>
> Dan Hopper
> RV-7A (Starting Phase I flight testing)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Donald Nowakowski <nowakod(at)us.ibm.com> |
07/07/2004 15:12:50,
Serialize complete at 07/07/2004 15:12:50
Michael,
In response to your abbreviated post below: I have had a Champ since 1991.
I built my -6 starting in 1995 and finally finishing in 2001. I worried
about the throttle/stick position through the whole building process but
finally decided to just go with the plans. So...the Champ has throttle on
the left and stick is held with the right hand. The -6 has the throttle in
the right hand and the stick in the left. The worry was unfounded as I
didn't even notice the difference on the first flight. Now I routinely
jump out of the Champ and into the -6, and vice versa, and never even
think about the throttle/stick position. I think you will find the same
thing. I don't know if this will help you make a decision or not but
perhaps it will provide food for thought......don
P.S. both planes seem "as comfortable as can be" to me.....
Subject: RV-List: Right throttle, Left throttle... Thats the ?
From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net>
OK you ole timers and vastly experienced pilots here goes.
I have been flying my 6 for the past 2 years left seat right throttle
for 1200 hours. Its as comfortable as comfortable can be. In preparation
for my 8, I have been flying right seat left throttle in the 6 just to
get a feel and begin a transition. After 10 or so of these awarkward
flights, I am now asking myself, " Why a left throttle in a tandem?"
Don Nowakowski , Equipment Engineering Tech
Telephone (802)288-3359,
Aviation in itself is not inherently dangerous. But to an
even greater degree than the sea, it is terribly unforgiving
of any carelessness, incapacity or neglect.
---- Original author unknown, dates back to World War II
advisory.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
Tom:
As I understand it, they have NEVER closed the field to arriving SHOW
aircraft. Your HR-II is a SHOW aircraft so do not worry about the field
closing. As I understand it, they will close the field to SPAM Cans.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,522 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo(at)verizon.net>
Subject: RV-List: osh
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2004 07:59:04 -0700
I plan on arriving at OSH on Monday, the day before OSH starts. I was told
that the parking areas may be filled by then. When do they start to divert
aircraft to other fields?
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA
Harmon Rocket-II
http://mysite.verizon.net/t.gummo/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Operating Efficiently Lean Of Peak |
Scroll down to
Hangar Echoes Article: GAMIjectors
You'll need to click on the Link to newsletter, a 1.5 Mb PDF file. You can
save the NL like I did. It's a great example of an EAA Chapter newsletter.
Mike
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
13B in gestation mode, RD-1C, EC-2
At 07:03 2004-07-07, you wrote:
>
>Can you narrow down the location a little more, I am having trouble finding
>the article.
>
> >
> >The recent rv-list posts on EI versus magnetoes
> >for LOP operation was interesting and informative.
> >Several posters pointed out that a matched set of
> >injectors was key to efficient operation Lean Of Peak.
> >
> >
> >The Van's Airforce World Wide Wing homepage
> >has an article on this subject I wrote that was in EAA Chapter 168's
> >newsletter. The url for the
> >Van's Airforce World Wide Wing homepage
> >homepage is www.vansairforce.net . The
> >"THE RV NEWS" column on the homepage
> >discusses the article andcontains a link to the
> >entire issue.
> >
> >
>
>
>Scott Bilinski
>Eng dept 305
>Phone (858) 657-2536
>Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Turbo Tom" <turbotom(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Infinity-grip trim relays |
Hi Guys!
I'm fleshing out the systems portion of my RV-8. I intend to use the
Infinity stick grip for controlling my aileron and elevator trim through the
ubitquitious "coolie hat", and my flaps through another toggle on the grip.
I'm soliciting input from you Infinty-flyers out there on what you used on
your RV and why you like it.
I intend to give the back-seater flap and trim controls but wish to keep the
simple manual [non-relayed] rocker switches for that seat. Can someone who
has already been through this offer up a little guidance? Is there any such
thing as "keeping this simple"?
1] Can I go with what seems to be the simple route and use the trim/relay
board available from Infinty?
2] Will the standard trim-motor speed be usable or will I absoulutely need
some method of controlling how fast the trim operates. [I've only flown
manual-trim RVs]
3] Where are most folks placing the toggle switch for their flaps?
4] What the heck are you guys doing with all the other switch positions?
Freq flip/flop? Ident? Worth the effort?
5] Favorite place for the PTT?
6] Especially valuable would be any "wish I hadn't done it that way"
experiences.
Thanks!
TT
Atlanta, GA RV-8QB Systems and wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Infinity-grip trim relays |
Tom,
Great questions. I only have a couple of comments. I just sent a check to
Infinity for my RV-8A front seat stick grip, and got a call from JD last
night.
First, he says that the trigger is the most common place for the PTT. I had
another idea, but since all the switches are going to be momentary contact
normally open (I think), I can change most anything if I don't like the way
I wire it the first time.
I too am figuring on minimal back seat switches, and I don't think I will
put any of them on the stick. Trim and flaps will go just below the back
seat throttle. I haven't convinced myself yet that I need a back seat PTT.
I put my flap switch on the panel right above the throttle where I can
control it with my left hand still on the throttle/prop/mixture controls.
The boost pump switch is right above it, so neither of those will go on the
stick grip.
JD said the long awaited throttle grip with many switches will go into
production this Fall. It could reproduce all the controls on my Blue
Mountain EFIS/one, but I have already mounted Blue Mountain's remote keypad
right beside the flaps and boost pump switches above the throttle.
Terry
RV-8A #80729 vsb wiring & stuff
Seattle
I intend to give the back-seater flap and trim controls but wish to keep
the
simple manual [non-relayed] rocker switches for that seat. Can someone who
has already been through this offer up a little guidance? Is there any such
thing as "keeping this simple"?
1] Can I go with what seems to be the simple route and use the trim/relay
board available from Infinty?
2] Will the standard trim-motor speed be usable or will I absoulutely need
some method of controlling how fast the trim operates. [I've only flown
manual-trim RVs]
3] Where are most folks placing the toggle switch for their flaps?
4] What the heck are you guys doing with all the other switch positions?
Freq flip/flop? Ident? Worth the effort?
5] Favorite place for the PTT?
6] Especially valuable would be any "wish I hadn't done it that way"
experiences.
Thanks!
TT
Atlanta, GA RV-8QB Systems and wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Reply to Stein's post re MAP |
Stiein,
We've spoken on the phone, I've bought stuff from you. You are a good guy, but
I have to respectfully tell you your post describing why price fixing is good
made absolutely no sense. Dealers drop the price until they are making the minimum
amount that they can make. Those that sell for too little die. Prices come
up and the process continues until equilibrium is achieved. This is the basis
of free market economics.
If the product being sold benefits from a lot of touchy feeley "value add" then
the low cost provider will not always win. If there is not a value add, then
it is a comodity. A comodity is assumed to be the same product regardless of who
you buy it from.
You are a perfect example. I buy nice faston connectors from you for 1/2 of what
AC$pruce sells them for. Why, because I know your 1/2 off faston is the same
as someone elses faston. A handheld GPS is the same. I don't need some schlumpf
showing me how to use it. I'll read the manual and figure it out for myself.
So in the end a high end avionics shop has nothing to offer ME (thats key) in
the purchase of a handheld over a low end mail ordeer only place. If I were
a GPS novice, I'd spend a few extra bucks from the high end avionics shop to get
handholding.
I'm done venting. In the end a handheld GPS is no different to most of us than
a Molex connector. The brand matters, not the source. Actually that doesn't work
for me, I know nothing about molex connectors and would probably need some
handholding from you to select the right one. (In that case I'd be willing to
spend more for the value add) But not for a handheld GPS.
Don
Get tips for maintaining your PC, notebook accessories and reviews in Technology
101.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | richard dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: N766DH First Flight! |
Congratulations Dan!!!!
Richard Dudley
-6A painting
Hopperdhh(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>Hello All RVers,
>
>RV-7A N766DH (Kit number 70066 -- pretty original huh?) took me for a
>wonderful ride last evening, the same day the inspection was signed off.
>
>No problems at all with the airplane. It was a little hazy and I kept losing
>the airport since it was not my home field and the RV covers 2 or 3 miles
>very quickly! So I hate to admit it, but much of the flight was spent trying
to
>locate the airport. That happened maybe 3 times! It is a 2000 foot grass
>strip (8I3 near Kokomo, IN). Of course I was concerned about the landing, but
it
>went perfectly.
>
>What a dream of an airplane. Let me tell you, it is certainly worth all the
>effort spent building to finally fly it. I have so much yet to learn about it
>though, but it seems friendly enough.
>
>Thank the Lord, my wife and Vans, and of course all the help that comes from
>those of you on the rv-list.
>
>Dan Hopper
>RV-7A (Starting Phase I flight testing)
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cracks in rudder skin - looking for suggestions |
Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
>Tracy Crook wrote:
>
>
>>
>>
>> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Pichon" >
>>
>>
>> >
>> > This past weekend, I noticed the first two cracks in the skin
>> > of the rudder
>> > on my -4. I have 200+ hours on the aircraft. It has an
>> > IO-360 (180 hp)
>> > with a CS prop. The cracks are not much of a surprise, but are
>> > disappointing nonetheless. The cracks propagate from two of
>> > the most forward
>> > rivets holding two of the skin stiffeners to the right-side
>> > rudder skin. I
>> > have stop-drilled the cracks and continue to fly, but plan to
>> > start the
>> > fabrication of a new rudder immediately.
>> >
>> > My rudder has the older 0.016" skin and has RTV in the
>> > trailing edge. I
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>> Dean, It's that vibrating thing on the nose that does it.
>> Sorry guys, couldn't stop myself.
>>
>> Tracy Crook
>> Rotary powered RV-4, 1425 hrs, .016 rudder skins, no cracks. (I promise to
stop now)
>>
>>
>
>
>I suspect the rudder cracks are caused not by the vibrating thing on the
>nose but the pounding airflow on the right side of the airframe caused
>by that blade-like thing on the nose (which even the rotary-powered
>planes must carry around). :-)
>
>All the cracked rudders I have seen (including the one on my RV-6) have
>cracks on the right side of the rudder. Wonder if they might also be the
>result of holding right rudder during takeoffs and climbs?
>
>Maybe the rotary powered planes don't have this problem because they
>don't produce as much torque as the Lycomings during takeoff..... :-)
>
>Doug, please research the part number you posted for the click patches;
>I can't get that number to work on Spruce's site (comes up with Cherry
>rivets).
>
>Sam Buchanan (RV-6 with lumpy vibrating thing bolted to nose)
>
My 1st -4 (160hp wood prop) had cracks on both sides of the rudder
starting at around 300hrs. Must have been those torque reversals by that
thang on the front getting at both sides of the rudder.
:-)
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com> |
I had one on my KR-2 with a VW engine. I had Westach make a custom quad
gauge with the mixture meter in it. While I waiting on that I used one of
their 2" automotive gauges.
I can't say enough about it. It reacts instantly and is much easier to
adjust the mixture than the EGT. I will never own another plane and not
have one in it.
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Louis Willig
Subject: RV-List: Oxygen sensor
Hi gang.
In a recent post, someone mentioned that they use an oxygen sensor to
adjust their mixture setting. About 4 or 5 years ago, there was a long
string of posts about the use of oxygen sensors. Several builders were
going to try them. But the results were never posted or updated. If any of
you have a good understanding and have had good results using O/S's to help
adjust mixture, please let us know. I would love to have something other
than my EGT gauge.
Louis
-
Louis I Willig
1640 Oakwood Dr.
Penn Valley, PA 19072
610 668-4964
RV-4, N180PF
190HP IO-360, C/S prop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Christopher Stone <rv8iator(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Operating Efficiently Lean Of Peak |
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Operating Efficiently Lean Of Peak
Scott...
Here is the link to John Deakin's (GAMI) articles on LOP operation.
http://www.avweb.com/news/columns/182544-1.html
Chris Stone
RV-8 wings
Can you narrow down the location a little more, I am having trouble finding
the article.
>
>The recent rv-list posts on EI versus magnetoes
>for LOP operation was interesting and informative.
>Several posters pointed out that a matched set of
>injectors was key to efficient operation Lean Of Peak.
>
>
>The Van's Airforce World Wide Wing homepage
>has an article on this subject I wrote that was in EAA Chapter 168's
>newsletter. The url for the
>Van's Airforce World Wide Wing homepage
>homepage is www.vansairforce.net . The
>"THE RV NEWS" column on the homepage
>discusses the article andcontains a link to the
>entire issue.
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Infinity-grip trim relays |
1. I did a simple relay that you can see on my website.
2. You will need a speed control to slow it down, imho.
3. Be careful here. I had the toggle on the top, next to the china hat
switch. I inadvertently activated it once while cruising at 190MPH. Scared
the daylights out of me and my wife. I had a flight guide in my hand I was
thumbing through and it bumped the flaps down. Luckily it was a momentary
switch, so not too much flaps came down.
4. For me, I don't think it's worth the effort. While I really liked the
grips, and think JD makes a great product, I don't think I'd do it again.
The only things I used were, PTT, flaps, and trim. I thought I would used
flip flop, engine start, a/p disconnect. The wiring time and complexity I
had to do just to get those three functions was enough in itself, so I gave
up on the other functions.
I did enjoy the trim and flaps right there, though. Short final, I could
give a bump of flaps or something if I was too steep and wanted to slow
down. Plus, I could run them up without holding the switch, as I used the
monentary/off/on switch for the flaps. I think with the RV-10 it's going to
be based on the KISS principle, and the grips will not be used.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Soon
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Turbo Tom" <turbotom(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: RV-List: Infinity-grip trim relays
>
> Hi Guys!
>
> I'm fleshing out the systems portion of my RV-8. I intend to use the
> Infinity stick grip for controlling my aileron and elevator trim through
the
> ubitquitious "coolie hat", and my flaps through another toggle on the
grip.
> I'm soliciting input from you Infinty-flyers out there on what you used on
> your RV and why you like it.
>
> I intend to give the back-seater flap and trim controls but wish to keep
the
> simple manual [non-relayed] rocker switches for that seat. Can someone
who
> has already been through this offer up a little guidance? Is there any
such
> thing as "keeping this simple"?
>
> 1] Can I go with what seems to be the simple route and use the trim/relay
> board available from Infinty?
>
> 2] Will the standard trim-motor speed be usable or will I absoulutely need
> some method of controlling how fast the trim operates. [I've only flown
> manual-trim RVs]
>
> 3] Where are most folks placing the toggle switch for their flaps?
>
> 4] What the heck are you guys doing with all the other switch positions?
> Freq flip/flop? Ident? Worth the effort?
>
> 5] Favorite place for the PTT?
>
> 6] Especially valuable would be any "wish I hadn't done it that way"
> experiences.
>
> Thanks!
>
> TT
> Atlanta, GA RV-8QB Systems and wiring
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Barnes" <skytop(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Infinity-grip trim relays |
Tom,
I have an RV-6 with both sticks setup with the Infinity. Both the pilot
and co-pilot controls are wired for flaps and pitch and roll trim. I
control the usage of the flaps and trim via a toggle switch on the pannel,
labeled "pilot" and "co-pilot" authority. These are the functions that
would cause a short if both switches were exercised opposite at the same
time. The switch merely controls a common ground path.
I have found the trigger is most useful for Push-To-Talk although at
first I would have rather had a standard thumb operated red button. The
reason for my change of mind comes with experience of needing to use the
thumb operated flaps at the same time as being on the PTT during short
final.
I have another button set up to swap frequency of the #2 radio. It is
useful again when you are most busy and want to shut off the receiver for
more important issues. Of course this only accomplishes the task if the
standby freq is tuned appropriately.
I used another button, pilot side only, for overriding the wing leveler.
It is the type push-on, push-off and takes some dicipline to always leave it
in the right position. I have a switch on the panel to control power to the
wing leveler and the wing leveler has its own function switch, so I wouldn't
waste my time on this (stick) feature if I were to do it again.
In time, I might wire up the green button for the starter, but I will
also put a panel switch in-line so it can not be accidently activated.
I took the advice of the guy at Infinity on using the momentary
(spring-loaded) flaps down and non-momentary for flaps up. I think I would
be happier with the spring loaded on both sides, because too often I forget
to turn off the flaps and during landing roll-out, it's nearly impossible to
hear the flap motor running. Even if there was a flashing light associated
with the condition, I'm not sure I'd be paying much attention to it.
All the relays and associated wiring from the sticks come together in
one of the bays under the co-pilot seat over which I installed an inspection
panel, so as to not have to pull the seat panel.
A multi-function grip like this is surely something I would want to have
in my next project.
Good luck,
Tom Barnes -6 36+ hrs N442TB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Turbo Tom" <turbotom(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: RV-List: Infinity-grip trim relays
>
> Hi Guys!
>
> I'm fleshing out the systems portion of my RV-8. I intend to use the
> Infinity stick grip for controlling my aileron and elevator trim through
the
> ubitquitious "coolie hat", and my flaps through another toggle on the
grip.
> I'm soliciting input from you Infinty-flyers out there on what you used on
> your RV and why you like it.
>
> I intend to give the back-seater flap and trim controls but wish to keep
the
> simple manual [non-relayed] rocker switches for that seat. Can someone
who
> has already been through this offer up a little guidance? Is there any
such
> thing as "keeping this simple"?
>
> 1] Can I go with what seems to be the simple route and use the trim/relay
> board available from Infinty?
>
> 2] Will the standard trim-motor speed be usable or will I absoulutely need
> some method of controlling how fast the trim operates. [I've only flown
> manual-trim RVs]
>
> 3] Where are most folks placing the toggle switch for their flaps?
>
> 4] What the heck are you guys doing with all the other switch positions?
> Freq flip/flop? Ident? Worth the effort?
>
> 5] Favorite place for the PTT?
>
> 6] Especially valuable would be any "wish I hadn't done it that way"
> experiences.
>
> Thanks!
>
> TT
> Atlanta, GA RV-8QB Systems and wiring
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
RV-List
Anyone know if this was an RV? The cowl looks like one.
http://cnn.netscape.cnn.com/news/us2.jsp
http://cnn.netscape.cnn.com/news/story.jsp?idq=/ff/story/0001%2F20040707%2F1434944465.htm&sc=1110&flok=NW_3-T
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Plexi Drilling Question |
Lockamy, Jack L wrote:
>
>Why is 5/32" too large? It worked well for me and I'm sure thousands of other
RV's that have the same plans and instructions....
>
>The pulled/pop/blind rivets fit perfectly if you countersunk the plexi BEFORE
opening up the holes to 5/32" (as mentioned in my construction manual).
>
>Jack
>
>
I agree, I checked the fit of the rivets on mine and they look fine to
me. I learned early that most of the answers I got from the Vans help
line was useless. Evertime I asked a question, they acted like no one
had ever asked that before, and their answers were not much help. Just
like this, the instruction say one thing and someone calls to question
it and gets an answer that no one has ever heard of and does not match
what the instructions say. Do they read their own instruction before
answering a question?
Mine fit fine and I'm happy with them drilled to 5/32 with a plexi bit.
If my canopy flys off later I'll let everyone know ;-)
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Was this an RV? |
Hard to say,
But the air intake does not look quite right for an RV, like its up
closer to the spinner. But, of course, difficult to tell and someone could
have made mods to an RV cowl.
Ed
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bobby Hester" <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net>
Subject: RV-List: Was this an RV?
>
> Anyone know if this was an RV? The cowl looks like one.
> http://cnn.netscape.cnn.com/news/us2.jsp
>
http://cnn.netscape.cnn.com/news/story.jsp?idq=/ff/story/0001%2F20040707%2F1434944465.htm&sc=1110&flok=NW_3-T
>
> --
> Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Was this an RV? |
According to this story it was a Harmon Rocket II...
http://www.sanluisobispo.com/mld/sanluisobispo/news/politics/9101383.htm
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Soon
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Was this an RV?
>
> Hard to say,
>
> But the air intake does not look quite right for an RV, like its up
> closer to the spinner. But, of course, difficult to tell and someone
could
> have made mods to an RV cowl.
>
> Ed
>
> Ed Anderson
> RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> Matthews, NC
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bobby Hester" <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net>
> To: "RV7and7A" ; "RV-List"
>
> Subject: RV-List: Was this an RV?
>
>
> >
> > Anyone know if this was an RV? The cowl looks like one.
> > http://cnn.netscape.cnn.com/news/us2.jsp
> >
>
http://cnn.netscape.cnn.com/news/story.jsp?idq=/ff/story/0001%2F20040707%2F1434944465.htm&sc=1110&flok=NW_3-T
> >
> > --
> > Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> > Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> > RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
ID'd as an HRII.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bobby Hester
Subject: RV-List: Was this an RV?
Anyone know if this was an RV? The cowl looks like one.
http://cnn.netscape.cnn.com/news/us2.jsp
http://cnn.netscape.cnn.com/news/story.jsp?idq=/ff/story/0001%2F20040707%2F1
434944465.htm&sc=1110&flok=NW_3-T
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Was this an RV? |
This was an HRII, as other's have posted. The pilot's
name was Ross Anderson, and he kept his plane right
across from my hangar at Torrance. We talked quite a
bit, and he was a nice guy. I'm sorry to hear about
the accident.
Skylor Piper
RV-8 QB Under Construction
--- Bobby Hester wrote:
>
>
> Anyone know if this was an RV? The cowl looks like
> one.
> http://cnn.netscape.cnn.com/news/us2.jsp
>
http://cnn.netscape.cnn.com/news/story.jsp?idq=/ff/story/0001%2F20040707%2F1434944465.htm&sc=1110&flok=NW_3-T
>
> --
> Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my web site at:
> http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Was this an RV? |
strangely enough, the picture in the link below is
definitely NOT Ross's plane, but who knows, the
picture could be an old file photo.
Here are some pictures of Ross and his plane:
http://www.harmonrocket.com/anderson.htm
--- Bobby Hester wrote:
>
>
> Anyone know if this was an RV? The cowl looks like
> one.
> http://cnn.netscape.cnn.com/news/us2.jsp
>
http://cnn.netscape.cnn.com/news/story.jsp?idq=/ff/story/0001%2F20040707%2F1434944465.htm&sc=1110&flok=NW_3-T
>
> --
> Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my web site at:
> http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Was this an RV? |
One of my FAA friends that built and flys an RV-6 at TOA called me this
morning to let me know the bad news. Ross was a good pilot and a great guy.
We will miss him. Not sure where the cowl came from but it was not the cowl
from his airplane.
Gary A. Sobek
EAA TC
FAA A&P
AB DAR
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,522 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Was this an RV?
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2004 20:17:42 -0700 (PDT)
This was an HRII, as other's have posted. The pilot's
name was Ross Anderson, and he kept his plane right
across from my hangar at Torrance. We talked quite a
bit, and he was a nice guy. I'm sorry to hear about
the accident.
Skylor Piper
RV-8 QB Under Construction
--- Bobby Hester wrote:
>
>
> Anyone know if this was an RV? The cowl looks like
> one.
> http://cnn.netscape.cnn.com/news/us2.jsp
>
http://cnn.netscape.cnn.com/news/story.jsp?idq=/ff/story/0001%2F20040707%2F1434944465.htm&sc=1110&flok=NW_3-T
>
> --
> Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my web site at:
> http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
MSN 9 Dial-up Internet Access helps fight spam and pop-ups now 2 months
FREE! http://join.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200361ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allarzil(at)aol.com |
below(at)matronics.com, pts(at)matronics.com, rule(at)matronics.com,
name(at)matronics.com, description(at)matronics.com
RV6 homebuilder, I expect to equip my rv6 with SUPERIOR XP 360 engine with
carb and fixed propeller.
Has somebody ever got the experience of this engine ?, with succes?
Alain Larzilliere
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allarzil(at)aol.com |
below(at)matronics.com, pts(at)matronics.com, rule(at)matronics.com,
name(at)matronics.com, description(at)matronics.com
RV6 homebuilder, I expect to equip my rv6 with SUPERIOR XP 360 engine with
carb and fixed propeller.
Has somebody ever got the experience of this engine ?, with succes?
Alain Larzilliere
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Infinity-grip trim relays |
I have 200+ hours on my -4 with an Infinity grip in only the front cockpit
and love it. I decided the complexity of the Infinity grip was not
warranted in the back seat. I use the "trigger" button as the PTT. In
addition to PTT, I use one momentary switch for the starter solenoid. This
allows me to have one hand on the stick and the other on the throttle &
mixture levers during starting. This seems to work well. Like you plan, I
have two-axis trim using the coolie hat switch. I wired my flaps using the
"paddle" (?) switch to the left of the trim switch. This is very
convenient. I used the remaining switches for transponder ident and radio
frequency flip-flop. For whatever reason, I have not yet gotten into the
habit of using these last two switches.
I recently installed a PTT in the rear seat so my wife can talk to other
aircraft when we fly. I opted not to mount the switch on the stick to
prevent the back seater from moving the stick when activating the PTT. This
is especially important when your back seater is not a pilot or is not
familiar with the light stick forces of an RV.
I did not bother to slow down the trim servos for either the elevator or
aileron. I have read many other posts about the excessive speeds of the MAC
servos, but I have not found it to be a problem. If anything, I wish the
aileron trim reacted more quickly. Pitch trim is fast, but not a problem.
Good luck,
Dean
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Turbo Tom" <turbotom(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: RV-List: Infinity-grip trim relays
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2004 16:13:04 -0400
Hi Guys!
I'm fleshing out the systems portion of my RV-8. I intend to use the
Infinity stick grip for controlling my aileron and elevator trim through the
ubitquitious "coolie hat", and my flaps through another toggle on the grip.
I'm soliciting input from you Infinty-flyers out there on what you used on
your RV and why you like it.
I intend to give the back-seater flap and trim controls but wish to keep the
simple manual [non-relayed] rocker switches for that seat. Can someone who
has already been through this offer up a little guidance? Is there any such
thing as "keeping this simple"?
1] Can I go with what seems to be the simple route and use the trim/relay
board available from Infinty?
2] Will the standard trim-motor speed be usable or will I absoulutely need
some method of controlling how fast the trim operates. [I've only flown
manual-trim RVs]
3] Where are most folks placing the toggle switch for their flaps?
4] What the heck are you guys doing with all the other switch positions?
Freq flip/flop? Ident? Worth the effort?
5] Favorite place for the PTT?
6] Especially valuable would be any "wish I hadn't done it that way"
experiences.
Thanks!
TT
Atlanta, GA RV-8QB Systems and wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "sdellangelo(at)netzero.com" <sdellangelo(at)netzero.com> |
| Subject: | Cheaper 37 degree flair tool |
description
I noticed in the new Summit Racing catalog that they now have a 37 degree one.
The part number is SUM-900311 and it's $34.95. I believe they are free shipping
too?
Scott DellAngelo
#90598 flaps, fuselage shipping 7/19
Looking for an O-320
Only $14.95/ month -visit www.netzero.com to sign up today!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Infinity-grip trim relays |
| From: | "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net> |
Tom,
You will want some pitch trim speed control. It really makes a
difference at fast cruise, particularly with your fast Franklin. You
will be cruising I suspect well into the 185kt range.
Since I KNOW you will be flying a lot of formation with Team RV, I would
suggest:
1. A mom on switch for flip flop.. This really makes a difference Tom. I
use it to swap radios. But you can use it either way. In formation, this
is quite helpful for those freq changes where lead did not spread you
first, although I do not know of any particular lead that does this:)
2. a toggle for hi/low speed trim. Anything over 170kt cruise and I
think this is a must. There are those that don't have this option and
don't complain. I put mine in at about the 200hr mark and I really enjoy
it.
3. A sw for smoke. You will have smoke wont you?
I think flaps and starter on the grip is a bad idea.
Cheers
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Turbo Tom
Subject: RV-List: Infinity-grip trim relays
Hi Guys!
I'm fleshing out the systems portion of my RV-8. I intend to use the
Infinity stick grip for controlling my aileron and elevator trim through
the
ubitquitious "coolie hat", and my flaps through another toggle on the
grip.
I'm soliciting input from you Infinty-flyers out there on what you used
on
your RV and why you like it.
I intend to give the back-seater flap and trim controls but wish to keep
the
simple manual [non-relayed] rocker switches for that seat. Can someone
who
has already been through this offer up a little guidance? Is there any
such
thing as "keeping this simple"?
1] Can I go with what seems to be the simple route and use the
trim/relay
board available from Infinty?
2] Will the standard trim-motor speed be usable or will I absoulutely
need
some method of controlling how fast the trim operates. [I've only flown
manual-trim RVs]
3] Where are most folks placing the toggle switch for their flaps?
4] What the heck are you guys doing with all the other switch
positions?
Freq flip/flop? Ident? Worth the effort?
5] Favorite place for the PTT?
6] Especially valuable would be any "wish I hadn't done it that way"
experiences.
Thanks!
TT
Atlanta, GA RV-8QB Systems and wiring
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sjhdcl(at)kingston.net |
below(at)matronics.com, pts(at)matronics.com, rule(at)matronics.com,
name(at)matronics.com, description(at)matronics.com
For those experiences small cracks on their RV6/6A rudders I have a new
one sitting here that someone can buy if they wish.
Shipping may be a bit but if anybody wants it let me know. Its from a 1999
kit and is completely finished and primed inside. Fiberglass pieces are
here somewhere.
$100?
Stand-by for several items coming up for sale. The token, cleaning out the
hanger/garage sale.
Steve Hurlbut
RV7A 70015 - 103 hours & sold
RV7A 71629 - Fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Right throttle, Left throttle... Thats the ? |
| From: | "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net> |
description
This was sent to me directly and worthy of archiving.
-----Original Message-----
From: Glen Matejcek [mailto:aerobubba(at)earthlink.net]
Subject: Throttles
Hi Mike-
"But other duties, like writing, knob turning, button pushing and so
forth, will always be bad with the weak hand. When bumping around in the
soup for example and getting new freqs, or pulling up the approach in a
430, when accuracy and feel are critical, would you want to put stick in
left hand and do those functions with the right? "
FWIW, my .02, ymmv, etc, as well as apologizing in advance for the
length of this note....
You're right, changing which hand you fly with is trivial. CFI's do it
all the time. Like most things in life, it is all the other stuff
that's an issue. As someone who has sat in and taught from both sides
of highly automated (read LOTS of buttons, knobs, and other gadgets with
complex operations) cockpits, both stick and yoke equipped, I can tell
you definitively that you and your left hand will acclimate just fine.
Making a grip switch to write rapidly becomes trivial. I even knew a
fella who got his private, including the instrument work, in a Citabria.
Who ever heard of an IFR-equipped Citabria? But it can be done, with
the proper ground rules / priorities. Task management is the key. In
air carrier ops, one guy flies, the other does everything else. The
busier you are the more important this is.
The part about pulling up approaches can be relatively easy. If you
look at the wx / access the notams and atis, you can set up the most
likely approach before you even take off, or at least somewhere far out
and at cruise. The part of your note that concerns me most is the "When
bumping around in the
soup for example..." line. Mike, if you go bumping around in the soup
in that nimble an airplane and hand fly it and try to write stuff down,
you WILL get vertigo sooner or later. If this is how you plan on using
your plane and you can afford a 430, it seems to me you can afford at
least a wing leveler. As much as I dislike the concept of an autopilot
in this type of aircraft, it's the route I went in the interest of
keeping the love of my life (as well as myself...) alive. The autopilot
will fly the plane, and I'll be the task manager.
For your consideration, here are some quotes from the conclusion section
of "Operational Problems Experienced By Single Pilots In Instrument
Meteorological Conditions", NASA, August 15, 1981:
2. It appears that the operational problems being experienced by the
SPIFR (SPIFR single pilot IFR) may be independent of experience.
Although this hypothesis needs to be tested more thoroughly, it is
suggested that if the hypothesis were found to be valid then remedies to
SPIFR operational problems do not lie in improving SPIFR capabilities
through more training and experience. Rather the nature of the SPIFR
task should be changed through the redesign of cockpit systems and ATC
procedures in handling the SPIFR.
3. Safety, Efficiency, and Workload factors are present in SPIFR
Operational Problem occurrences. Half of the occurrences involved an
act or condition likely to lead to grave consequences, and one-third
involved an act or condition of ignorant or imprudent deviation from
acceptable procedures. In more than one-third of the occurrences, the
efficiency of IFR flight was affected. Depending upon what determinant
is used to assess workload, between one-quarter and three-quarters of
the occurrences involved workload as a factor (emphasis added).
9. Loss of airplane control generally followed the pilot being
distracted. Even relatively experienced pilots lost airplane control.
Also, current research (not yet completed) indicates that the average
experience level of spatial disorientation victims is on the increase.
Food for thought....
Glen Matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | N766DH First Flight! |
Dan,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: N766DH First Flight!
>Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2004 12:44:00 EDT
>
>
>Hello All RVers,
>
>RV-7A N766DH (Kit number 70066 -- pretty original huh?) took me for a
>wonderful ride last evening, the same day the inspection was signed off.
>
>No problems at all with the airplane. It was a little hazy and I kept
>losing
>the airport since it was not my home field and the RV covers 2 or 3 miles
>very quickly! So I hate to admit it, but much of the flight was spent
>trying to
>locate the airport. That happened maybe 3 times! It is a 2000 foot grass
>strip (8I3 near Kokomo, IN). Of course I was concerned about the landing,
>but it
>went perfectly.
>
>What a dream of an airplane. Let me tell you, it is certainly worth all
>the
>effort spent building to finally fly it. I have so much yet to learn about
>it
>though, but it seems friendly enough.
>
>Thank the Lord, my wife and Vans, and of course all the help that comes
>from
>those of you on the rv-list.
>
>Dan Hopper
>RV-7A (Starting Phase I flight testing)
>
>
MSN Life Events gives you the tips and tools to handle the turning points in
your life. http://lifeevents.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Rozema <hartist1(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Was this an RV? |
Bobby Hester wrote:
>
>Anyone know if this was an RV? The cowl looks like one.
>http://cnn.netscape.cnn.com/news/us2.jsp
>http://cnn.netscape.cnn.com/news/story.jsp?idq=/ff/story/0001%2F20040707%2F1434944465.htm&sc=1110&flok=NW_3-T
>
>
>
Hammond Rocket
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Cunningham" <benandginny(at)insightbb.com> |
, , ,
| Subject: | Re: Rv-6/6A Rudder |
Steve,
Will you be selling any tools? I need a longeron yoke.
Ben Cunningham
RV7
----- Original Message -----
From: <sjhdcl(at)kingston.net>
; ; ;
; ;
Subject: RV-List: Rv-6/6A Rudder
>
> For those experiences small cracks on their RV6/6A rudders I have a new
> one sitting here that someone can buy if they wish.
>
> Shipping may be a bit but if anybody wants it let me know. Its from a 1999
> kit and is completely finished and primed inside. Fiberglass pieces are
> here somewhere.
>
> $100?
>
> Stand-by for several items coming up for sale. The token, cleaning out the
> hanger/garage sale.
>
> Steve Hurlbut
> RV7A 70015 - 103 hours & sold
> RV7A 71629 - Fuse
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 57 Msgs - 07/07/04 |
In a message dated 07/08/2004 12:03:16 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
From: "John Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV-List Insurance Exclusions?
(Stuff Cut)
By the way, yes you're wrong, but I don't mean that in a cruel way. (Stuff
Cut)
JT
I really like the way you kept slipping in how wrong I am.
I understand your position of being the absolute authority on any insurance
question.
So I have a question. What does the word "compliance" mean?
That is, How would your state department of insurance regard a written
presentation in a public forum. Is this advertisement by an insurance agent that
would require that agent to include their license number on each presentation?
And I could be wrong. But I don't mean that in a cruel way.
Jim Ayers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael D Crowe" <tripacer(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Infinity-grip trim relays |
Tom,
You might want to look at this product for slowing down the trim.
http://www.f1-rocketboy.com/tcm.html
Mike Crowe
-----Original Message-----
On Behalf Of Turbo Tom
Subject: RV-List: Infinity-grip trim relays
2] Will the standard trim-motor speed be usable or will I absoulutely need
some method of controlling how fast the trim operates. [I've only flown
manual-trim RVs]
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 57 Msgs - 07/07/04 |
| From: | "Rabaut, Chuck" <Chuck.Rabaut(at)fresnosheriff.org> |
Good one Jim.
Some "Gods" need to be pulled back to earth occasionally.
Chuck
-----Original Message-----
In a message dated 07/08/2004 12:03:16 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
From: "John Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV-List Insurance Exclusions?
(Stuff Cut)
By the way, yes you're wrong, but I don't mean that in a cruel way. (Stuff
Cut)
JT
I really like the way you kept slipping in how wrong I am.
I understand your position of being the absolute authority on any insurance
question.
So I have a question. What does the word "compliance" mean?
That is, How would your state department of insurance regard a written
presentation in a public forum. Is this advertisement by an insurance agent that
would require that agent to include their license number on each presentation?
And I could be wrong. But I don't mean that in a cruel way.
Jim Ayers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Hartzell prop & gov for sale |
Hi all,
I'm posting this for a friend. If you are interested in this Hartzell prop,
please contact him directly. Kent Rockwell at (909)-734-7523 or E-mail
krseahunt(at)aol.com
Hartzell constant speed prop for sale
72" Hartzell for I0-320/360
HC-M2YR-1BF/F7663-4 Extended hub version S/N EN 482
With Woodward 210105 governor S/N 5167 and new Lycoming drive gear assembly
Built up by the Prop Center in Santee, Calif.
Prop has 0 hours total time since buildup 4-20-93 and has been displayed in
my living room since. Gloss black blades feature elliptical tips painted in
yellow, sharp looking.
Complete for $4500
Contact Kent Rockwell at (909)-734-7523
or E-mail krseahunt(at)aol.com
Located in Southern Calif.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 57 Msgs - 07/07/04 |
I certainly don't think I am a God. I believe that I know my way around insuring
a plane, especially an RV as I insure over 1000 of them. Jim apparently has
an issue with being corrected. I do not mean to imply that he is stupid, just
that he has been using the wrong insurance verbage, and subsequently passing
along inaccurate information about me, and my office's capabilities.
His re-posting of one sentence of a complete post I made drastically distorts what
I said. I was merely pointing out to Jim that he was indeed wrong when he
indicated that I could not access quotes thru AIG. I am that companies third
largest aviation broker. They can at times be quite competitive on RV's especially
for liability only.
I do not intend to leave this list. As long as I do not break the rules, I'd expect
not to be asked to leave. I believe that I have always followed the rules
of this list. There are many who I believe are much more commercial than I
am on this forum.
But, I also do not think Jim should leave. I do wish that he and some people on
this site would be a little less antagonistic especially when it comes to insurance
and insurance agents. Either buy it or don't.
I would suggest to Jim that he read the posts that are directed to his concerns
more closely. No one has attacked his character. He has been corrected and
pointed in the right direction by me and others, but again, those corrections
do not say he's stupid, nor are they intended as such.
But, I can take it this little bit of heat. I would appreciate being quoted in
full and not have my posts pieced apart sentence at a time out of context though.
I believe most would feel the same.
JT
----- Original Message -----
From: Rabaut, Chuck
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, July 08, 2004 11:49 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: 57 Msgs - 07/07/04
Good one Jim.
Some "Gods" need to be pulled back to earth occasionally.
Chuck
-----Original Message-----
In a message dated 07/08/2004 12:03:16 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
From: "John Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV-List Insurance Exclusions?
(Stuff Cut)
By the way, yes you're wrong, but I don't mean that in a cruel way. (Stuff
Cut)
JT
I really like the way you kept slipping in how wrong I am.
I understand your position of being the absolute authority on any insurance
question.
So I have a question. What does the word "compliance" mean?
That is, How would your state department of insurance regard a written
presentation in a public forum. Is this advertisement by an insurance agent
that
would require that agent to include their license number on each presentation?
And I could be wrong. But I don't mean that in a cruel way.
Jim Ayers
________________________________________________________________________________
I used the XP-360 built by Aerosport Power and I am very
satisfied and highly recommend Aerosport Power. Customer service is
excellent.
Dick Dial
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Allarzil(at)aol.com
below(at)matronics.com; pts(at)matronics.com; rule(at)matronics.com;
name(at)matronics.com; description(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: superior engine
RV6 homebuilder, I expect to equip my rv6 with SUPERIOR XP 360 engine
with
carb and fixed propeller.
Has somebody ever got the experience of this engine ?, with succes?
Alain Larzilliere
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Right throttle, Left throttle... Thats the ? |
| From: | Bruce Green <mailindex(at)juno.com> |
writes:
>
>
> Let me be a little clearer.
> I feel the finesse of flying the plane can be done with either hand,
> both stick and throttle.
>
> But other duties, like writing, knob turning, button pushing and so
> forth, will always be bad with the weak hand. When bumping around in
> the
> soup for example and getting new freqs, or pulling up the approach
> in a
> 430, when accuracy and feel are critical, would you want to put
> stick in
> left hand and do those functions with the right?
>
> Why not just rig the plane for left stick right throttle, right hand
> free to do the things its really good at, keep the stick is the left
> hand, and do those writing/knob pushing items with the right/strong
> hand.
>
> I write a lot. Notes, weather, formation debrief items, frequencies,
> etc...
>
> When flying right seat in my 6 and trying to get the right airport
> and
> frequency into the Garmin 430 for example, It was a bear as my left
> hand
> just plays dumb and cant do it well. I can whiz bang through it no
> problem with my right hand, but the left just is not as cooperative.
>
> You guys flying right hand stick left hand throttle, don't you find
> yourself swapping hands around for this stuff?
>
I fly an Eagle with throttle on the left and I don't find myself swapping
hands. Unless your plane is badly out of rig/trim, you can just take
your hand off of the stick and write what you have to write. That is
what I do with the Eagle and I have no where near the stability of an RV.
Bruce Green
Eagle N110GM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LML Klingmuller" <l_klingmuller(at)earthlink.net> |
description
My non-flying friends ask me how I can afford having and flying an airplane. My
typical reply is that I don't chase little balls around the golf,course and
I don't drive a big gas tussling SUV. However, I do not mention airplane insurance
and hangar costs!!
Here are some recent data comparing times, gas consumption and cost flying from
Denver (FTG) to Nucla (6V6), a small agricultural town on the Western Slope of
Colorado.
Round trip distance: air: 512 stml road: 700 ml
Time air: 3:00 (tach) road: 12:45 (estm @ 55ml/hr)
Fuel used air: 22.7 gl road: 25 gl (estm @ 28
ml/gl)
Consumption: air: 7.6gl/hr
Fuel costs air $ 66.23 road: $50.- (estm @ $2/gl)
Aviation and car fuel prices made a big jump recently. Paid $2.73 @ FTG and $2.83
@ 6V6.
Note: I fly an RV-6A with a Lycoming O-360 1A1, Fixed pitch prop. Power setting
is 2450 rpm. On trips tach time is equal to clock time consistently.
If I would drive my friend's SUV or the pick up truck, the road fuel cost would
double!
For those living outside the Rocky Mountains, we need to climb from 5,500( FTG)
to around 13, 500 to get over the Collegial Range in central Colorado. Most
cruising was around 12,000 as I like to look at the rocks.
I have not made any significant trips with an rpm setting at 2700 to compare times
and fuel consumption. All I know that fuel consumption increases to around
8.9 gl/hr @ 2450 rpm when I fly towards Florida or low lands.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 57 Msgs - 07/07/04 |
| From: | "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net> |
I think JT is both.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rabaut, Chuck
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: 57 Msgs - 07/07/04
Scott was a fantastic resource!!! JT is an insurance salesman, plain &
simple.
...now I have to go wash my mouth out with soap.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 57 Msgs - 07/07/04 |
Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta) wrote:
>
> I think JT is both.
> Mike
FWIW, I agree.
-Dj
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 57 Msgs - 07/07/04 |
Thank you (if I read it correctly that you think of me as more than an insurance
salesman but as a resource).
JT
----- Original Message -----
From: Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, July 08, 2004 3:07 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: 57 Msgs - 07/07/04
I think JT is both.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rabaut, Chuck
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: 57 Msgs - 07/07/04
Scott was a fantastic resource!!! JT is an insurance salesman, plain &
simple.
...now I have to go wash my mouth out with soap.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vic Jacko" <vicwj(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Headwind vs Tailwind was: Poor man's toy? |
Nice report, I for one would enjoy reading more of these .
You have tempted me to change the subject slightly. Head wind vs tailwind:
Auto vs Airplane.
I have run the numbers and come to the conclusion it is in most cases
better to fly at max cruise when facing headwinds than to slow down and stay
in the air burning less fuel per hour but burning more fuel to get to your
destination..
I am not sure where the line is as far as velocity of the headwind where
it is more fuel efficient to fly quick, than flying slower and taking more
time and actually burning more fuel!
OK----- How about the auto driving into a headwind vs having a tailwind to
increase your fuel mileage.
Would it be better to drive slower in a headwind to cut wind resistance and
drive quicker with a tailwind to take advantage of the free push?
What a great way to spend an afternoon!
Vic
----- Original Message -----
From: "LML Klingmuller" <l_klingmuller(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Poor man's toy?
>
> My non-flying friends ask me how I can afford having and flying an
airplane. My typical reply is that I don't chase little balls around the
golf,course and I don't drive a big gas tussling SUV. However, I do not
mention airplane insurance and hangar costs!!
>
> Here are some recent data comparing times, gas consumption and cost flying
from Denver (FTG) to Nucla (6V6), a small agricultural town on the Western
Slope of Colorado.
>
> Round trip distance: air: 512 stml road: 700 ml
> Time air: 3:00 (tach) road: 12:45
(estm @ 55ml/hr)
> Fuel used air: 22.7 gl road: 25 gl
(estm @ 28 ml/gl)
> Consumption: air: 7.6gl/hr
> Fuel costs air $ 66.23 road: $50.-
(estm @ $2/gl)
>
> Aviation and car fuel prices made a big jump recently. Paid $2.73 @ FTG
and $2.83 @ 6V6.
>
> Note: I fly an RV-6A with a Lycoming O-360 1A1, Fixed pitch prop. Power
setting is 2450 rpm. On trips tach time is equal to clock time
consistently.
>
> If I would drive my friend's SUV or the pick up truck, the road fuel cost
would double!
>
> For those living outside the Rocky Mountains, we need to climb from
5,500( FTG) to around 13, 500 to get over the Collegial Range in central
Colorado. Most cruising was around 12,000 as I like to look at the rocks.
>
> I have not made any significant trips with an rpm setting at 2700 to
compare times and fuel consumption. All I know that fuel consumption
increases to around 8.9 gl/hr @ 2450 rpm when I fly towards Florida or low
lands.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bertrv6(at)highstream.net |
| Subject: | Re: Plexi Drilling Question |
Quoting Kevin Horton :
>
> >
> >
> >Ben,
> >
> >The only plexiglass bits available are 1/8" and 5/32". The 1/8" are too
> >small and the 5/32" are too large. Therein lies the problem. The plans
> >call for AACQ-4-4 pulled rivets for the front bow of the canopy frame. The
> >smallest step in a unibit I can find is 1/32", which would go from 1/8" to
> >5/32". What I need is a 9/64" plexiglass bit. Anyone know where to get
> >such an animal?
> >
> >Thanks, Tom
>
> A Google for "plastic drill 9/64" turned up:
>
> http://www.abbeon.com/newFiles/plexidrill.html
>
> I have no idea how good they are. I though I bought my 9/64
> plexiglas drill bit from Aircraft Spruce, but they don't list one on
> their web site now.
> --
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
>
> Remember you must leave plenty of space, for expansion and contraction no?
othersie you will have a crack windshield or canopy....If I remember I taped
the holes for the front.
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris W <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Headwind vs Tailwind was: Poor man's toy? |
Vic Jacko wrote:
>
>Nice report, I for one would enjoy reading more of these .
>
>You have tempted me to change the subject slightly. Head wind vs tailwind:
>Auto vs Airplane.
>
>I have run the numbers and come to the conclusion it is in most cases
>better to fly at max cruise when facing headwinds than to slow down and stay
>in the air burning less fuel per hour but burning more fuel to get to your
>destination..
>
> I am not sure where the line is as far as velocity of the headwind where
>it is more fuel efficient to fly quick, than flying slower and taking more
>time and actually burning more fuel!
>
>
You would have to come up with a formula for TAS in terms of GPH for
your airplane at a given altitude. With 3 or 4 data points you could
come up with a quadratic curve fit that would be plenty accurate for the
range of speeds we are dealing with. Then it should be a simple matter
of pluging in the wind speed, taking the derivative, setting it equal to
zero and solving. Just be sure you find the right zero.
>OK----- How about the auto driving into a headwind vs having a tailwind to
>increase your fuel mileage.
>
> Would it be better to drive slower in a headwind to cut wind resistance and
>drive quicker with a tailwind to take advantage of the free push?
>
>
>
The problem with that is you can't always just drive the speed you want
to. However I do something similar when I am in the mountains. If the
ups and downs are short (around a mile or so) and they are such that
there is no place for a cop to be hiding at the bottom of the hill, I
will let my speed wind up to about 90 on the down side and slow down to
about 50 on the up side before I intervene with a change in pressure on
the gas or brake pedal.
Chris W
Bring Back the HP 15C http://hp15c.org
Not getting the gifts you want? The Wish Zone can help.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Cloughley <claw2265(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Re: RV-List Digest: 57 Msgs - 07/07/04 |
These RV's we will or are flying around are worth serious amounts of money and
it is prudent to insure them. Aviation insurance is part of the aviation experience,
whether we like it or not. I look at all the websites and trade magazines
and it's pretty obvious that JT is "the" authority in the field of aviation
insurance. A big part of it is his willingness to give his knowledge freely
or answer questions, whether you are a customer or not. I don't have an intense
interest in the nuances of aviation insurance so I'm grateful there is a
professional who explains it in terms anyone can understand. I think we ought
to be thanking him, not giving him a hard time.
... Bill
RV-7 Wings
http://www.aircobratech.com/Bill/RV7_Main.htm
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 57 Msgs - 07/07/04 |
John Helms wrote:
>
> Thank you (if I read it correctly that you think of me as more than an insurance
salesman but as a resource).
>
> JT
Yes, that was the intent. :-)
-Dj
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal / Carol Kempthorne <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Headwind vs Tailwind was: Poor man's toy? |
Don't forget to figure in the value of your time! If you are working,
figure it is at least what it would cost you to take off a day without
pay. If you are retired and getting up in years, figure a much, much
higher cost.
What is life without an airplane?
hal (with one airplane too many!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rv-6/6A Rudder |
I am interested in the rudder. Where are you located?
Thanks
Rollie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal / Carol Kempthorne <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Operating costs - MADHIT & FEMPI |
I once got really interested in the cost of my flying and came up with
these words to help me remember what the components of the cost are.
There are two kinds of costs - fixed and variable. Fixed is so much a
month or year while variable is (duh) variable.
Fixed:
M Maintenance that is not related to hours such as ELT batteries,
main battery
A Annual inspection expense -
D Decline in value of the aircraft (depreciation is actually an IRS
word which you can perhaps call on to help!)
H Hangar - or tiedown etc
I Interest on loan and on cash paid such as down payment, which could
earn interest.
T Taxes
Variable:
F Fuel
E Engine reserve
M Maintenance that is related to hours usage such as tires
P Prop care - especially for controllables
I I forget what this is??
(To help me remember, I use my checklist. Now all I need is something to
remind me to use the checklist!)
We spend $10 or more a day to own the plane, it is a shame to not fly it
because we figure cost per hour with fixed costs included.
The first hour each year costs MADHIT, the others just FEMPI.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Decuir <dacure(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sensenich prop rpm |
I have a 160 HP Lyc in my RV-4. I bought it 2 years ago, equipped with
a -79 Sensenich. Static RPM was about 2250. I re-pitched the prop to -81
this January. Static RPM is now about 2050. I definitely climb at a
slower rate now, but I can carry more MP at cruise without overspeeding
the prop. I have not checked time-to-climb rates or service ceiling,
but I know they dropped . But, I can climb on course at 125-130 KIAS at
2450-2500 RPM with WOT, and at 6500-7500 MSL pull MP back to 21.0-21.5
inches to hold 2450 RPM, and 185 mph. Downhill performance is sweet! I
just don't know how she will do over the Sierras. It was no trouble at
all with the -79.
John DeCuir
Salinas CA
RV4 N204CP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com> |
| Subject: | Anyone heard of this? |
(not processed: message from valid local sender)
When going to buy MEK the person informed us that this is what a lot of people
are using to prep aluminum instead of the toxic MEK...
anyone heard of it? what are your thoughts?
http://www.jasco-help.com/products/prod_mg.htm
- Matt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Anyone heard of this? (not processed: message from valid |
local s...
In a message dated 7/8/2004 9:54:58 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
matt(at)n559rv.com writes:
When going to buy MEK the person informed us that this is what a lot of
people are using to prep aluminum instead of the toxic MEK...
Anyone heard of it? What are your thoughts?
=========================
How does it go?...Leave the gun, take the canoli.... or in this case, leave
the MEK and take the Naphtha (Coleman Lantern Fluid). Your liver will thank
you.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 708 hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon and Marge" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
SUBJ_HAS_SPACES 0.97)
pts rule namedescription
name description
I have a 160 HP Lyc in my RV-4. I bought it 2 years ago, equipped with
a -79 Sensenich. Static RPM was about 2250. I re-pitched the prop to -81
this January. Static RPM is now about 2050. I definitely climb at a
slower rate now, but I can carry more MP at cruise without overspeeding
the prop.
.
John DeCuir
Salinas CA
RV4 N204CP
John: I can tell you you will have no trouble looking down from 15,000
feet. I have the same setup as you, arrived at the same way.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | List Discussions |
Hi All,
I would like to thank JT Helms for his contributions to the list.
My experience has been that an open discussion leads to a better
understanding by all involved.
I have also observed that, if right and wrong are the only options, there
cannot be an open discussion. There is no synergy in black and white, it comes
out of the gray area between the ears.
For me, one person said it all when he observed directly to me, 'It's
difficult being called a liar in front of 2000 people'.
From my experience, successful insurance agents are from two of the four
basic personalities.
The action personality: Just DO IT.
And the control personality: "This is the way it is because I say it is."
Somehow I see JT as the control personality.
I'm basically a technical personality. A data gatherer.
I would make a terrible insurance salesmen. Dwelling on all of the ins and
outs of the coverage, and whether it was appropriate for the customer.
I would drive an action personality nuts with all the data. They just want
to DO IT.
I would be in direct conflict with a control personality. There would always
be one piece of data that the control personality KNEW ABSOLUTELY was WRONG.
If the RV-list is a mix of the USA population, 38% would be the control
personality, 38% would be the action personality, 12% would be the technical
personality and 12% would be the relational personality. Each percentage variation
being +/- 2%.
The relational personality - Can't we all just get along?
If the people of this list recognize that these personalities are there,
perhaps we can all get along.
38% will know absolutely that I am wrong.
38% will be building their RV, instead of reading the list.
12% will be trying to share their data, even if they are wrong.
and 12% will be planting flowers in the garden, instead of reading the list.
Jim Ayers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ollie Washburn" <ollie-6a(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 57 Msgs - 07/07/04 |
JT,
Do all insurance companies require a medical every year after the age of
70 and if not can you tell us which don't ? Getting a medical every year
just adds to the cost of my insurance.
Thanks, Ollie Washburn Fl.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: 57 Msgs - 07/07/04
>
>
> I answer questions every week on this list for people who's agent has not
adequately explained their coverage to them. Some of those people end up
insuring their planes with me. Some do not. But, I never solicit them. If
they recognize that they've learned more from me in a short email, or that I
am willing to spend time with them on the phone explaining something and
their current agent doesn't and never has, how is that bad for them?
>
>
> JT
> -----
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Neal E Capt AU/PC <Neal.George(at)maxwell.af.mil> |
| Subject: | Fuel Level Senders |
Listers -
The no-moving-parts aspect of Van's capacitive senders makes a lot of sense
to me. Being months or years from populating the panel, I'm concerned about
broad compatibility on the panel end of the wire. Your thoughts /
experience?
Neal
RV-7 N8ZG (reserved)
(wrestling with the wing order)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Trampas" <tstern(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Level Senders |
Don't worry too much about the panel end of the wire. There are lots of
people making conversion circuits. These circuits convert the capacitance
from the probe to a voltage or frequency that most gauges can use.
Regards,
Trampas Stern
Stern Technologies
4321 Waterwheel Dr
Raleigh NC 27606
919-832-8441 Ext. 12 (voice)
919-832-8441 (fax)
www.sterntech.com
tstern(at)sterntech.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of George Neal E Capt
AU/PC
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Level Senders
Listers -
The no-moving-parts aspect of Van's capacitive senders makes a lot of sense
to me. Being months or years from populating the panel, I'm concerned about
broad compatibility on the panel end of the wire. Your thoughts /
experience?
Neal
RV-7 N8ZG (reserved)
(wrestling with the wing order)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bluecavu(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 49 Msgs - 07/08/04 |
below(at)matronics.com, pts(at)matronics.com, rule(at)matronics.com,
name(at)matronics.com, description(at)matronics.com
In a message dated 7/9/2004 1:59:40 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
> I would appreciate being quoted in
> full and not have my posts pieced apart sentence at a time out of context
> though.
> I believe most would feel the same.
>
Read the list usage guidelines -they say to snip -and it seems that very few
follow this
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
Listers,
I'm looking for a 12V plug-in receptacle for installation into the instrument panel
to occasionally power such things as a hand-held, etc. The power receptacles
I have seen look like they came out of a car.....okay I suppose.... just not
for me. Does anyone know of a source I can check out for a suitable receptacle
that suggests "aircraft" instead of "automobile"?
Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bluecavu(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 49 Msgs - 07/08/04 |
below(at)matronics.com, pts(at)matronics.com, rule(at)matronics.com,
name(at)matronics.com, description(at)matronics.com
In a message dated 7/9/2004 1:59:40 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
> I think JT is both.
> Mike
This whole issue should have taken place by private email and not on the list
-the 'pissing-match-factor' would have then been much reduced... when issues
like this are debated in front of the whole group then each party is
consciously of subconciously trying to form a camp of other members behind him
and his
side of the issue -and things just escalate... causing bigger divisions.
Basic sociology/psychology. Get it out of the public forum!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad Werner" <klwerner(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rv-6/6A Rudder |
Dear Rollie,
Good to see that you are still involved with RV's. How is your rebuild on the
RV-6A coming along? Done?
P.S. In case you still need a rudder, etc. >>> I do have a complete spare empennage
that I am willing to sell. It is the newer version with the taller counter
balanced rudder. Let me know.
Konrad
ABQ, NM
----- Original Message -----
From: Rquinn1(at)aol.com
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, July 08, 2004 5:27 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rv-6/6A Rudder
I am interested in the rudder. Where are you located?
Thanks
Rollie
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 12V receptacle |
| From: | Kevin Maxwell <kevmaxwell(at)mac.com> |
try this:
http://www.powerletproducts.com/products.php?mid=1
On Friday, July 9, 2004, at 10:29 AM, Rick Galati wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> I'm looking for a 12V plug-in receptacle for installation into the
> instrument panel to occasionally power such things as a hand-held,
> etc. The power receptacles I have seen look like they came out of a
> car.....okay I suppose.... just not for me. Does anyone know of a
> source I can check out for a suitable receptacle that suggests
> "aircraft" instead of "automobile"?
>
> Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne @ Aircraft Engravers" <wayne(at)engravers.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 12V receptacle |
Look into a website that sells RV (Recreational Vehicle) or marine
accessories.
Wayne Cahoon
Aircraft Engravers
(860) 653-2780
(860) 653-7324 Fax
http://www.engravers.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Galati" <rick6a(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: 12V receptacle
>
> Listers,
>
> I'm looking for a 12V plug-in receptacle for installation into the
instrument panel to occasionally power such things as a hand-held, etc. The
power receptacles I have seen look like they came out of a car.....okay I
suppose.... just not for me. Does anyone know of a source I can check out
for a suitable receptacle that suggests "aircraft" instead of "automobile"?
>
> Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 12V receptacle |
This is the one I used:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/cigrecept.php
Enough people have asked "What's that?" to indicate to me that it doesn't
smack of automobile. If I were doing it again, I might just hide the thing
up under the panel (but still accessible). No need for it to be exposed
since I basically never use it.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Galati" <rick6a(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: 12V receptacle
>
> Listers,
>
> I'm looking for a 12V plug-in receptacle for installation into the
instrument panel to occasionally power such things as a hand-held, etc. The
power receptacles I have seen look like they came out of a car.....okay I
suppose.... just not for me. Does anyone know of a source I can check out
for a suitable receptacle that suggests "aircraft" instead of "automobile"?
>
> Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 12V receptacle |
I have two such receptacles...for GPS units, one on each side of the
panel...they are both regular aircraft microphone jacks...gives you two
circuits...one for 12V and the other I use for GPS signals to the autopilot.
Works just fine and the current levels involved are so small that the mic
jack is perfect, relatively cheap ($10 or less) and take up almost no room
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | AlternatorBeltTensionAdjustmentRange |
I've mounted Vans 35 amp alternator to my O360-A!A with constant speed prop on
my RV8A. I find that the upper half of the slot on the belt tensioning adjustment
bracket is unusable because the body of the alternator contacts the prop
pitch oil control line. Is there anything I can do to increase the usable adjustment
range so I can position the alternator higher up? I'd like to minimize
chances of the pulley contacting the lower cowling during operation and be able
to use a 3.6" diameter pulley that I have machined to slow the alternator
down.
Dave Reel - RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Wenk" <david.wenk(at)flyguides.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6A travelogue on Flyguides |
RV flyers and builders might like to know about a four-part series that's starting today on Flyguides. Our series follows Dr Randy Garrett and his daughter Stacey as they attempt to fly their RV-6A from Massachusetts to Alaska. Link here: http://flyguides.com/roadtrip/index.htm
Safe flying,
David Wenk
Flyguides Pilot Travel
http://flyguides.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Neal E Capt AU/PC <Neal.George(at)maxwell.af.mil> |
Rick -
If you're not dead set on a cigar-lighter type power point, you might
consider the Anderson Power Pole line of connectors. In the amateur radio
community, emergency operations and exercises have historically been
frustrating because of the great variety of connector styles and
compatibility. We have finally begun to standardize around the Anderson
Power Pole connector for 12v power connectors. It's compact, idiot-proof,
inexpensive, durable and available in a variety of configurations, both
mountable and pig-tail.
Here's a link to a number of sources... www.qsl.net/w6apd/powerpole.html
>I'm looking for a 12V plug-in receptacle
>Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
73...n8zg
Neal George
RV-7, Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob 1" <rv3a(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 12V receptacle |
>
> I have two such receptacles...for GPS units, one on each side of the
> panel...they are both regular aircraft microphone jacks...gives you two
> circuits...one for 12V and the other I use for GPS signals to the
autopilot.
> Works just fine and the current levels involved are so small that the mic
> jack is perfect, relatively cheap ($10 or less) and take up almost no room
>
> John
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Very bad idea for my money.
Odds are that, sooner or later, someone is going to plug a headset or
somethting else into one of these lashups.
What happens when someone does.....
say, from any of the various headsets, especially ANR types or whatever?
For me....
it's imperative to limit recognizable receptacles to approved STANDARD uses.
Otherwise, a blown fuse, damaged equipment or a cockpit fire could be in the
making.
Bob -
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bartrim, Todd" <Steve.Bartrim(at)canfor.com> |
Hi Rick;
When I was building I considered alternative power outlets as I find the
idea of using a device intended for igniting a cigarette to be somewhat archaic.
However consider that many of the devices that you may intend to use with
these plug-ins use less than 12-14 volts. Most of these have the voltage regulator/power
supply and fuse inside the plug that fits into the "cigarette lighter".
So if you were to simply cut off this plug and wire in your own, you may
find your expensive little electronic accessory is leaking smoke :-(
We are so entrenched in the use of this archaic device that it is hard
to get away from it and I didn't want the hassle of dealing with voltage regulation
for individual devices, so I submitted and installed 4 of them. 2 are located
just under the panel lip, out of sight, and 2 more are concealed behind
a small flap similar to the way a will find them in newer autos.
I'm quite satisfied with this arrangement.
S. Todd Bartrim
Turbo 13B
RX-9endurance
C-FSTB
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
"Imagination is more important than knowledge"
-Albert Einstein
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
Quite right! I sell a LOT of these archaic 12V power receptacles on a
regular basis. You may be surprised to know that these very units are in
use in some military airplanes as well, and are nothing super special! The
ones I stock are standard 12V power points, which simply mount in the panel.
Given the fact that most portable devices come with this type of plug, it
makes the most sense.
Anyway, just an fyi from the perspective of someone who has gone through
several hundred of these this year. I too have looked at alternatives, but
as of yet haven't found any good ones.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's Minneapolis
http://www.steinair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bartrim, Todd
Subject: RE: RV-List: 12V receptacle
Hi Rick;
When I was building I considered alternative power outlets as I find
the idea of using a device intended for igniting a cigarette to be somewhat
archaic. However consider that many of the devices that you may intend to
use with these plug-ins use less than 12-14 volts. Most of these have the
voltage regulator/power supply and fuse inside the plug that fits into the
"cigarette lighter". So if you were to simply cut off this plug and wire in
your own, you may find your expensive little electronic accessory is leaking
smoke :-(
We are so entrenched in the use of this archaic device that it is
hard to get away from it and I didn't want the hassle of dealing with
voltage regulation for individual devices, so I submitted and installed 4 of
them. 2 are located just under the panel lip, out of sight, and 2 more are
concealed behind a small flap similar to the way a will find them in newer
autos.
I'm quite satisfied with this arrangement.
S. Todd Bartrim
Turbo 13B
RX-9endurance
C-FSTB
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
"Imagination is more important than knowledge"
-Albert Einstein
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 12V receptacle |
Stein Bruch wrote:
>
>Quite right! I sell a LOT of these archaic 12V power receptacles on a
>regular basis. You may be surprised to know that these very units are in
>use in some military airplanes as well, and are nothing super special! The
>ones I stock are standard 12V power points, which simply mount in the panel.
>Given the fact that most portable devices come with this type of plug, it
>makes the most sense.
>
>Anyway, just an fyi from the perspective of someone who has gone through
>several hundred of these this year. I too have looked at alternatives, but
>as of yet haven't found any good ones.
>
>Cheers,
>Stein Bruch
>RV6's Minneapolis
>
>http://www.steinair.com
>
>
>
>
How does this one attach to the panel? Is there a nut on the back?
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rv-6/6A Rudder |
Konrad, Yes we are flying thanks for asking. I have a bit of hanger rash on
my rudder and may replace or reskin it. Since we are flying there is no rush.
I dot think the taller rudder will fit but thanks again.
Rollie
799RQ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Chuck & Dave Rowbotham ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
Subject: Panel - N712CR
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/crowbotham@hotmail.com.07.09.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
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Email the information above and your files and photos to:
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Tom Clark ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Tom Clark
Subject: New Photo RV8 Fastback
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/Tom.Clark@UTCFuelCells.com.07.09.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
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o Submitting a Photo Share
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following information along with your email message and files:
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "czechsix(at)juno.com" <czechsix(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Infinity-grip trim relays |
Tom,
I'm not flying yet but I asked the List some of the same questions you have when
I was trying to figure out how to set up my -8A. The one thing I learned is
that there's no "standard" setup for the Infinity grip....everybody's got their
own preference. I've talked to guys with military experience in multiple aircraft
types and it seems that there's no set standard there either....each aircraft
manufacturer sets things up a bit differently. Bottom line is to make
it work the way you want it.
In my case, I have the Infinity grip in the front seat only. Coolie hat is trim
of course, and the trigger is PTT. Top right button is red and is the CWS (Control
Wheel Steering) button for my Trutrak autopilot. Top left is a toggle
switch for flaps. The thumb-operated button halfway down the left side is blue
and is used to turn the fuel pump on/off (100LL is blue : ). The pinkie-operated
button on the bottom of the grip is green and controls my Wig-wag.
In the back seat, I don't have any buttons on the stick so it can be quickly removed.
Instead I mounted switches/buttons just above the rear throttle quadrant
in the plate that the front seatback weldment bolts to. I have a PTT button,
roll trim, flaps, and a map light with miniature on/off toggle switch. I put
the pitch trim just forward of the rear seat throttle lever. In the front
seat I have a toggle switch mounted in the right side console that can disable
the back seat trim and flaps by opening their ground paths.
A few more notes that may be of interest: when I ordered my grip from J.D. at
Infinity, he talked me into using a On-Off (On) toggle for the flaps, so that
you can flip the flaps up using the On position and retract them without having
to keep your thumb on the toggle. However I later replaced it with what I originally
wanted, an (On)Off(On) switch... I don't think in the RV it's a very
big deal to hold the switch with your thumb (especially if the PTT is on the
trigger and you can operate it simultaneously while holding the flaps toggle)
and I'm more worried about forgetting and leaving the flap motor running for the
whole flight.
I did NOT like the idea of having the starter on my stick grip....could do bad
things to your starter/ring gear if you bump it unintentionally while the engine
is running, or cause injury or damage if bumped inadvertently while on the
ground. Just my personal opinion, and I know J.D. and others disagree with me.
I was concerned about being able to tell whether the fuel pump and wig-wag push-button switches are on or off (you can't tell by looks or feel what position they're in) so I put a blue LED (to match the blue button for the fuel pump) and green LED (matching the green button for the wig-wag) in my panel to show when they are ON. The LED's are also dimmed by my panel bright-dim switch (yes, all this stuff is WAY more complex than just putting toggle switches on the panel!). And of course there's relays for the pitch trim, roll trim, and flaps (two each for a total of six). The back seat switches share the same relays. The boost pump is controlled directly by the pushbutton switch on the stick grip. The wig-wag I got from www.periheliondesign.com (it was the original Rev A wig-wag) which is very light and small, and can be controlled by a low-voltage switch like the one in the stick grip. I also have a toggle switch on the panel that can override the wig-wag for landing an
d taxi light modes, but since 99% of my flying will be day VFR, I put the wig-wag
on the stick because I'll use it all the time in the pattern.
And finally, I have a pitch trim speed reducer that is active when the flaps are
up (controlled by microswitch on the flaps weldment).
So far all I've done is hangar flying but I think this setup will enable me to
keep my hands on the stick most of the time, especially in the pattern. My throttle
hand will operate carb heat, fuel selector, and radio/transponder/GPS (all
mounted on the LH side of my panel).
I have a diagram of my panel/cockpit (including rear seat) that I can send off-list
if anyone would like to see my layout....
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D prepping fuse for paint....
Subject: Infinity-grip trim relays
From: Turbo Tom (turbotom(at)mindspring.com)
Date: Wed Jul 07 - 1:13 PM
Hi Guys!
I'm fleshing out the systems portion of my RV-8. I intend to use the
Infinity stick grip for controlling my aileron and elevator trim through the
ubitquitious "coolie hat", and my flaps through another toggle on the grip.
I'm soliciting input from you Infinty-flyers out there on what you used on
your RV and why you like it.
I intend to give the back-seater flap and trim controls but wish to keep the
simple manual [non-relayed] rocker switches for that seat. Can someone who
has already been through this offer up a little guidance? Is there any such
thing as "keeping this simple"?
1] Can I go with what seems to be the simple route and use the trim/relay
board available from Infinty?
2] Will the standard trim-motor speed be usable or will I absoulutely need
some method of controlling how fast the trim operates. [I've only flown
manual-trim RVs]
3] Where are most folks placing the toggle switch for their flaps?
4] What the heck are you guys doing with all the other switch positions?
Freq flip/flop? Ident? Worth the effort?
5] Favorite place for the PTT?
6] Especially valuable would be any "wish I hadn't done it that way"
experiences.
Thanks!
TT
Atlanta, GA RV-8QB Systems and wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Harker" <dpharker(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Flaps--Big Picture? |
I have finished the left wing in my 7A and have the flap and aileron
attached. I have reviewed the wing/fuselage assembly instructions and don't
understand why I need to split the flap hinge pin or drill a hole in the
aileron bracket.
Must the wing be mated to the fuselage without the flap attached? Or are
these instructions for flap removal at some future point in time. If I have
to remove the flap why can't I drill the hole in the aileron bracket then?
Trying to sort out big picture. Thanks
Don Harker
Gurnee IL
7A Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flaps--Big Picture? |
The key is keeping the hinge pin in place...not allowing it to work its way
out of the hinge and ruining your day! 8-)
I did the split method, separating each hinge pin into two sections that
insert from the center. I liked that method better...my opinion in general
is that the shorter the pin, the less hassle it'll give you. The ends are
bent and safety wired in the middle of the flap brace. Essentially no
chance of them working in either direction, and they're pretty easy to
install & remove there. Just need to disconnect the flap pushrod from the
flap and let the flap go down further to expose access.
Best of luck,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Harker" <dpharker(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: RV-List: Flaps--Big Picture?
>
>
> I have finished the left wing in my 7A and have the flap and aileron
> attached. I have reviewed the wing/fuselage assembly instructions and
don't
> understand why I need to split the flap hinge pin or drill a hole in the
> aileron bracket.
>
> Must the wing be mated to the fuselage without the flap attached? Or are
> these instructions for flap removal at some future point in time. If I
have
> to remove the flap why can't I drill the hole in the aileron bracket then?
>
> Trying to sort out big picture. Thanks
>
> Don Harker
> Gurnee IL
> 7A Wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LarryLicking(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Sensenich Fixed-Pitch Prop |
Hello All,
I must soon choose a prop for my RV6A, and have definitely (nearly) decided
on a Sensenich prop. Their web site lists props for a standard cowl and for a
long cowl. Vans sent an S type cowl, but I cannot determine if this is a std
or long. Anyone have any idea on this?
Next, what are your experiences with the climb, cruise and standard pitches?
This may have been covered many times before on this site, but any thoughts
would be appreciated.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Sensenich Fixed-Pitch Prop |
>Next, what are your experiences with the climb, cruise and standard pitches?
>This may have been covered many times before on this site, but any thoughts
>would be appreciated.
>
>
>_-
I can tell you that 76" of pitch is not enough for the 160 hp Lyc on a 6A. I need
to have mine coarsened,, perhaps to 78 or 79 inches to prevent overspeeding
at cruise above about 6000 feet.
So says Ed Zercher at the Sensenich factory.
-BB
=======================================================================
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com> |
| Subject: | Fluting Questions... |
(not processed: message from valid local sender)
Does anyone have a closeup of a rib that has been fluted? I want to make
sure that mine is correctly done. All the pictures I have found on
the web have been too far away to really see the detail of the flute...
Also, I know that many people in the pictures have full size plans
showing the flute locations on the rib. My kit does not have this (in the
plans or the preview plans). I just purchased the empennage kit a week
ago so I am not sure if this is something that has been removed
from the newer kits? What DWG plan number is it so I can see if it is
missing?
Thanks for the feedback.
- Matt
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel Float Wire bends |
| From: | "" <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com> |
All,
I am finishing up the 2nd (right) wing and tank on my RV7a. I am using the standard
Stewart Warner floats, and I have run into a problem. I had no problem
on the left, but it appears that the float will hit the stiffener on the right
if I bend it per the bending instructions included with the floats. I saw Randy
Lervold posted this exact same question quite some time ago in the archives,
but it never got answered. Should I just bend it to fit? Is there any way
to tell the difference between the right and left senders? I have one of the
385B and 385C, but I thought they might be mixed up in the C box.
Thanks,
Scott
7A Wings
www.scottsrv7a.com
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LarryLicking(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Sensenich Fixed Pitch Prop |
I failed to mention that I have an O-360, 180 hp engine. Again, does anyone
know if the S Type cowl is the standard or the long version? Also,
Sensenich's standard prop has 83", climb has 81", and cruise has 85". In a hot
climate, perhaps the standard (83) may be a good compromise.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flaps--Big Picture? |
It is much easier to drill the rear spar attach point with the flap off.
Jeff Point
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Float Wire bends |
IIRC, you can tell the left from right by using the pre-drilled holes in
the access cover. The left and right are off slightly, and putting one
in the wrong hole will be obvious, as it is tilted 20 deg or so sideways.
Jeff Point
RV-6 72 hours
Milwaukee WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Flaps--Big Picture? |
Don,
I have read Dan C. and Steins replies to you. I took the other approach and
like it. Put just the pin in the hinge of the wing and see where the hole
wants to be -- exactly in line with the pin. Mark the aileron bracket and drill
the hole. This will let the flap hinge pin come out, even if the ailerons are
installed. Now for the trick! When you install the flap hinge pin, leave it
long enough to extend out both ends. The fuselage will keep it from moving
inboard. To keep it from moving outboard just bend the end about 1/8 of an
inch so it misses the hole in the flap bracket. That means bending about the
last inch or so of the pin. Now when you want to remove the pin you just reach
up with pliers, spring it 1/8 inch until it starts into the hole, and it can be
slid out. With the offset, it can never get itself started into the hole.
Round both ends of the pin on your Scotchbrite wheel.
Regards,
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (Finally flying -- about 4 hours into phase I.)
In a message dated 7/9/04 7:33:17 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
dpharker(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
>
>
> I have finished the left wing in my 7A and have the flap and aileron
> attached. I have reviewed the wing/fuselage assembly instructions and don't
> understand why I need to split the flap hinge pin or drill a hole in the
> aileron bracket.
>
> Must the wing be mated to the fuselage without the flap attached? Or are
> these instructions for flap removal at some future point in time. If I have
> to remove the flap why can't I drill the hole in the aileron bracket then?
>
> Trying to sort out big picture. Thanks
>
> Don Harker
> Gurnee IL
> 7A Wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Art Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: engine seminars at oshkosh |
Does anyone remember a post regarding an engine disassembly and
reassembly seminar at oshkosh? Who, When, Where? I believe it was
several hours over a couple of days.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: engine seminars at oshkosh |
In a message dated 7/10/04 6:35:58 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
airplane(at)megsinet.net writes:
>
>
> Does anyone remember a post regarding an engine disassembly and
> reassembly seminar at oshkosh? Who, When, Where? I believe it was
> several hours over a couple of days.
>
>
I attended at SnF. It was at the Mattituck tent.
Dan H (RV-7A)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Float Wire bends |
I'm building an 8A so I can't be sure how this applies to other models, but I also
had difficulty interpreting the instructions for bending the fuel float gauge
wires. The left and right sides are both shown in Van's installation instructions,
however, I found that the drawing for the right tank was misleading.
The wire wrapped end of the float should be forward instead of aft as shown
in the right wing tank drawing. With this change I was able to get the float
to move unrestricted throughout the tank. Hope this helps Scott.
Dave Reel - RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HalBenjamin(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fluting Questions... (not processed: message from valid local |
se...
In a message dated 7/10/2004 12:10:06 AM Eastern Standard Time,
matt(at)n559rv.com writes:
> Does anyone have a closeup of a rib that has been fluted? I want to make
> sure that mine is correctly done. All the pictures I have found on
> the web have been too far away to really see the detail of the flute...
>
> Also, I know that many people in the pictures have full size plans
> showing the flute locations on the rib.
Hi Matt,
I don't have any pictures with me (On vacation). But it's pretty easy. Just
figure out where you are going to drill holes and flute between them. Flutes
usually don't have to be to deep, so just start slow and easy. You can
always make the flutes a little deeper if you need to. Be sure you check the ribs
a
good flat surface
& you'll be done in no time. Have fun!
Hal "Where's da paddle" Benjamin
RV-4 Canoe Stage
Vacationing on Cap Cod
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fluting Questions... (not processed: message from |
valid local sender)
Matt,
It is not so much what the flute looks like but the final result achieved
that is important. What you want is for the rib to lie flat on a flat
surface, and the flanges should be 90 degrees to the web (in most cases). I
would attempt to get the flanges square first, then apply your flutes,
lightly at first to see what effect it has. You will soon learn which
direction and how much the web moves in relation to the flute...so you might
want to have some flutes deeper than others depending on how much the web
needs to move--usually the flutes are deeper in the center of the rib, for
example. Also, I try to flute every space between holes, even if only very
slightly in some places. Apply all your flutes lightly, check on a flat
surface, re-apply your flutes, check again. Occasionally you will "over
flute." You will know this because the web is now "out of flat" in the
opposite direction. So take your hand seamers and lightly squeeze some of
your flutes and check again. You will soon develop the skill needed to make
perfect ribs.
On some ribs, the flanges will not necessarily be 90 degrees; for example,
on the tapering horizontal stab, you may want to go slightly beyond the 90
to match the angle of the skin, but this is definitely advanced metal
working!
After you complete your flutes, go back and check your flange angles--they
may need a tweak or two. For this job it helps the have a small 90 degree
square, available at hobby shops for RC modelers. (Or you can make your own
out of balsa.)
Of course, you need to position your flutes between the holes! I just
eyeball mine; again, it is not important where the flutes are, just the
final result. I would not waste a lot of time trying to center the flute
exactly between the holes--close is close enough.
Hope this helps.
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 All Flying
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com>
Subject: RV-List: Fluting Questions... (not processed: message from valid
local sender)
>
> Does anyone have a closeup of a rib that has been fluted? I want to make
> sure that mine is correctly done. All the pictures I have found on
> the web have been too far away to really see the detail of the flute...
>
> Also, I know that many people in the pictures have full size plans
> showing the flute locations on the rib. My kit does not have this (in the
> plans or the preview plans). I just purchased the empennage kit a week
> ago so I am not sure if this is something that has been removed
> from the newer kits? What DWG plan number is it so I can see if it is
> missing?
>
> Thanks for the feedback.
>
> - Matt
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal / Carol Kempthorne <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sensenich Fixed Pitch Prop |
I had an 83" on my RV6a with 180hp and sold it to get an 85"
Full throttle at 7500 ft would give more than 2700 rpm with the 83".
hal
At 09:23 PM 7/9/2004, you wrote:
>
>I failed to mention that I have an O-360, 180 hp engine. Again, does anyone
>know if the S Type cowl is the standard or the long version? Also,
>Sensenich's standard prop has 83", climb has 81", and cruise has 85". In
>a hot
>climate, perhaps the standard (83) may be a good compromise.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com> |
| Subject: | Countersinking Question... |
(not processed: message from valid local sender)
In the instructions, it talks about increasing the countersink "two clicks" to
accomidate a dimple when you are putting a dimple against a
countersink to make sure the metals are flat. In order for us to get the dimpled
sheet to lay flat we had to increase the countersink about
two full turns! and that was just enough to make the metal with the dimple lay
flat. Are we doing someting wrong? the goal is to have the
dimpled metal lay flat correct? two clicks did nothing... I dont want to continue
past this until I know we are doing it correctly, any feedback
would be appreciated, thanks.
- Matt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sensenich Fixed Pitch Prop |
Hal:
I also have an 83" sensenich. Back when I bought it, that was what they
were recommending. (They've offered to repitch it for me.) I'm not
flying yet, but what did your 83" prop do at higher altitudes? Here in
arizona, one can find oneself at 10,000 - 12,000 ft fairly often. I'm
guessing that when taking off from a 7000 ft runway at 100 degrees F.,
an 83" might be good to have.
Hal / Carol Kempthorne wrote:
>
> I had an 83" on my RV6a with 180hp and sold it to get an 85"
>
> Full throttle at 7500 ft would give more than 2700 rpm with the 83".
>
> hal
> At 09:23 PM 7/9/2004, you wrote:
>
>>
>>I failed to mention that I have an O-360, 180 hp engine. Again, does anyone
>>know if the S Type cowl is the standard or the long version? Also,
>>Sensenich's standard prop has 83", climb has 81", and cruise has 85". In
>>a hot
>>climate, perhaps the standard (83) may be a good compromise.
>
>
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, Landing gear
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Shemp" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | xm satellite weather |
Has anyone tried using this service yet?
shemp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Sensenich Fixed Pitch Prop |
I would concurr. It seems as of late that the 85" seems to be the best
compromise, give the new whell pant fairings etc.. With my 180hp & 85", I
can still run up to 2800+, even at altitude, and I fly out of a 1800' grass
strip with no troubles at all, climb is still fine. I've seen these twisted
up to 87", I know there are some RV8 guys around with 87" FP's around down
in IA.
Anyway, just my 2 cents.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Hal / Carol
Kempthorne
Subject: Re: RV-List: Sensenich Fixed Pitch Prop
I had an 83" on my RV6a with 180hp and sold it to get an 85"
Full throttle at 7500 ft would give more than 2700 rpm with the 83".
hal
At 09:23 PM 7/9/2004, you wrote:
>
>I failed to mention that I have an O-360, 180 hp engine. Again, does
anyone
>know if the S Type cowl is the standard or the long version? Also,
>Sensenich's standard prop has 83", climb has 81", and cruise has 85". In
>a hot
>climate, perhaps the standard (83) may be a good compromise.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal / Carol Kempthorne <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sensenich Fixed Pitch Prop |
I returned from Oshkosh last year with the 85" prop at high altitudes. It
was very smoky over the Sierra Nevada so I came direct from about Bishop to
Visalia at 17,999 feet. It was still willing to climb but I didn't have
IFR equipment. I have the newer 'pressure recovery' wheelpants and they
make a big difference.
hal
At 09:12 AM 7/10/2004, you wrote:
>
>Hal:
> I also have an 83" sensenich. Back when I bought it, that was
> what they
>were recommending. (They've offered to repitch it for me.) I'm not
>flying yet, but what did your 83" prop do at higher altitudes? Here in
>arizona, one can find oneself at 10,000 - 12,000 ft fairly often. I'm
>guessing that when taking off from a 7000 ft runway at 100 degrees F.,
>an 83" might be good to have.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Cours <rv-j(at)moriarti.org> |
| Subject: | stiffeners for the 7 rudder |
I've been fabricating the stiffeners for a newer 7-style rudder. I'm
almost done with them, and will probably finish by the time any
responses to this message come back, but I'm in this process to learn
and can't help but wonder if there's a better way.
So far, I've been cutting away the extra aluminum with snips, leaving it
wide of the line. Then I file to the line with an aluminum file, deburr,
finish on a scotch-brite wheel, and bend and flute as necessary (since
the snips tend to distort the soft stiffener stock) to get them flat
again. It works well, but it's a fairly slow process. Out of curiousity,
have any of you all come up with a better or faster method?
thanks,
Jeff
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: stiffeners for the 7 rudder |
I used a Robin Craftsmen snip I got from Avery. Cuts a nice smooth burr free
line without distorting the metal. Then just scotchbrite and your done.
Bryon Crook
-7 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Pitot tube line? |
Hi all,
I'm getting ready to route my pitot line through the wing. I didn't
find any info on the plans as to how much tubing should extend out the root rib.
I have considered using a bulkhead union at the root rib instead. Later when
the wing was mated to the fuse, I could just make a line to connect the root
rib fitting to the fitting in the fuse. However, I don't know if this would
work as I have not seen how much room there is between the wing and the fuse.
Any thoughts or suggestions?
Bryon Crook
-7 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: 12 V Receptical |
| From: | "Nielsen Mark" <Mark.Nielsen(at)andritz.com> |
>
> I'm looking for a 12V plug-in receptacle for installation into the
instrument panel
> to occasionally power such things as a hand-held, etc. The power
receptacles
> I have seen look like they came out of a car.....okay I suppose....
just not
> for me. Does anyone know of a source I can check out for a suitable
receptacle
> that suggests "aircraft" instead of "automobile"?
>
>
Rick,
I installed two 12V power jacks: 1) a standard cigar lighter jack under
the panel where it is out of the way but easily accessible, and 2) a
panel mounted, small diameter power jack similar to the jacks that you
see in the myriad of electronic devices with AC power converters. I
bought the power jacks and mating plugs at Radio Shack.
I use the small jack to power a handheld GPS that's mounted in my panel.
I cut the "cigarette lighter" adapter cord that came with the GPS short,
to the exact length I needed and installed the mating plug for the small
panel-mounted jack. I also installed an in-line jack in the other cut
end of the adapter cord. That leaves open the option of using the GPS
with the cigarette lighter adapter away from the airplane.
Note: In over seven years of flying, I have used the cigar lighter
power jack once -- to power a hand-held radio when my panel-mounted
radio went belly-up.
Mark Nielsen
RV-6; 920 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Cunningham" <benandginny(at)insightbb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot tube line? |
Bryon,
This is an issue I have put off a long time. (I'm currently close to
finishing the finish kit.) I would like to transition from the alum tubing
to flexible tubing but I can't decide where to do it. (Obviously before
entering the fuse somewhere) My thoughts are to take the alum tube to the
last rib then transition to flexible tubing there. The length to be
determined much later in the project.
Ben Cunningham
Louisville, KY
RV7 N701VF
Crossflow Subaru
----- Original Message -----
From: <BGCrook(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Pitot tube line?
>
> Hi all,
>
> I'm getting ready to route my pitot line through the wing. I didn't
> find any info on the plans as to how much tubing should extend out the
root rib.
>
> I have considered using a bulkhead union at the root rib instead. Later
when
> the wing was mated to the fuse, I could just make a line to connect the
root
> rib fitting to the fitting in the fuse. However, I don't know if this
would
> work as I have not seen how much room there is between the wing and the
fuse.
>
> Any thoughts or suggestions?
>
> Bryon Crook
> -7 wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 12V receptacle |
Many thanks to all who responded to my query both on and off list regarding the
12V receptacle question. So many helpful responses provided me with a fresh
perspective and new ways of thinking through the subject. I'm still not 100%
sure how I will proceed but thanks to your valued input, I do know this. At
the end of the day "Darla" will have a receptacle (or two) installed, but the
casual observer viewing from the perspective of the flight line will never know
it.
Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: stiffeners for the 7 rudder |
Your process seems OK but I'm fairly sure that the stiffeners don't get or
need to be fluted.
Karie Daniel
RV-7A
QB In Progress
Sammamish, WA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Cours" <rv-j(at)moriarti.org>
Subject: RV-List: stiffeners for the 7 rudder
>
> I've been fabricating the stiffeners for a newer 7-style rudder. I'm
> almost done with them, and will probably finish by the time any
> responses to this message come back, but I'm in this process to learn
> and can't help but wonder if there's a better way.
>
> So far, I've been cutting away the extra aluminum with snips, leaving it
> wide of the line. Then I file to the line with an aluminum file, deburr,
> finish on a scotch-brite wheel, and bend and flute as necessary (since
> the snips tend to distort the soft stiffener stock) to get them flat
> again. It works well, but it's a fairly slow process. Out of curiousity,
> have any of you all come up with a better or faster method?
>
> thanks,
> Jeff
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pitot tube line? |
How is the flexible tubing connected to the alum tubing? My thought was that
I could install the bulkhead union fitting in the root rib. If I could connect
the flexible tubing to this fitting I could make the transition there at the
root rib.
Is this possible? I'm not familar with how the flexible tubing connects.
Bryon Crook
-7 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Walker" <ron(at)walker.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot tube line? |
I used 3/8 OD nyloflex to connect to the instrument panel. Ran it down to
the left wing root under the pilots floor where the 3/8" AL tubing came in
from the wing. I connected them with some 3/8" ID tubing (from the aircraft
parts section of Lowes) ... it slipped snugly over both the AL and the
Nyloflex ... overlapped by about 6". Some tie wraps and bam - worked like a
charm. No leaks either !
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: <BGCrook(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Pitot tube line?
>
> How is the flexible tubing connected to the alum tubing? My thought was
that
> I could install the bulkhead union fitting in the root rib. If I could
connect
> the flexible tubing to this fitting I could make the transition there at
the
> root rib.
>
> Is this possible? I'm not familar with how the flexible tubing connects.
>
> Bryon Crook
> -7 wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Walker" <ron(at)walker.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot tube line? |
Ooops ... Now that I think a bit more ... it may have been 1/4 OD nyloflex
with 1/4 ID tube joining it ... but I'm sure you get the picture.
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Walker" <ron(at)walker.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Pitot tube line?
>
> I used 3/8 OD nyloflex to connect to the instrument panel. Ran it down to
> the left wing root under the pilots floor where the 3/8" AL tubing came in
> from the wing. I connected them with some 3/8" ID tubing (from the
aircraft
> parts section of Lowes) ... it slipped snugly over both the AL and the
> Nyloflex ... overlapped by about 6". Some tie wraps and bam - worked like
a
> charm. No leaks either !
>
> Ron
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <BGCrook(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Pitot tube line?
>
>
> >
> > How is the flexible tubing connected to the alum tubing? My thought was
> that
> > I could install the bulkhead union fitting in the root rib. If I could
> connect
> > the flexible tubing to this fitting I could make the transition there at
> the
> > root rib.
> >
> > Is this possible? I'm not familar with how the flexible tubing connects.
> >
> > Bryon Crook
> > -7 wings
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)direcpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sensenich Fixed-Pitch Prop |
I think the s-cowl is the old standard cowl length. The fixed pitch guys
of old had longer cowls to get the prop a little further forward to
maybe help cg issues. I do know that you want to order the Sensenich
with a 2.25" spacer for the S-type cowl.
Also the little rule of thumb (pitch * rpm /1125 = mph) is amazingly
accurate.
I had a 6A running 83 pitch in Denver and would of rather had 85" of
pitch. I swapped the whole thing out for a CS and really like the 180
CS performance.
Gary
LarryLicking(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>Hello All,
>
>I must soon choose a prop for my RV6A, and have definitely (nearly) decided
>on a Sensenich prop. Their web site lists props for a standard cowl and for a
>long cowl. Vans sent an S type cowl, but I cannot determine if this is a std
>or long. Anyone have any idea on this?
>
>Next, what are your experiences with the climb, cruise and standard pitches?
>This may have been covered many times before on this site, but any thoughts
>would be appreciated.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)direcpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: stiffeners for the 7 rudder |
I cut mine for my old slow-build six by making a simple jig for my table
saw. A carbide tipped blade works wonders. Most wood working tools work
well with aluminum.
Gary
Jeff Cours wrote:
>
>I've been fabricating the stiffeners for a newer 7-style rudder. I'm
>almost done with them, and will probably finish by the time any
>responses to this message come back, but I'm in this process to learn
>and can't help but wonder if there's a better way.
>
>So far, I've been cutting away the extra aluminum with snips, leaving it
>wide of the line. Then I file to the line with an aluminum file, deburr,
>finish on a scotch-brite wheel, and bend and flute as necessary (since
>the snips tend to distort the soft stiffener stock) to get them flat
>again. It works well, but it's a fairly slow process. Out of curiousity,
>have any of you all come up with a better or faster method?
>
>thanks,
>Jeff
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <are_barstad(at)norlogic.com> |
| Subject: | Pitot tube line? |
I used nyloflex in the entire wing... almost all the way to the heated
pitot/static. I only left approx. 4" of alum tubing between the nyloflex and
tube to avoid heat melting the nylon. It's now 2 1/2 years ago but I seem to
remember that this was what was recommended.
Are
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ron Walker
Subject: Re: RV-List: Pitot tube line?
I used 3/8 OD nyloflex to connect to the instrument panel. Ran it down to
the left wing root under the pilots floor where the 3/8" AL tubing came in
from the wing. I connected them with some 3/8" ID tubing (from the aircraft
parts section of Lowes) ... it slipped snugly over both the AL and the
Nyloflex ... overlapped by about 6". Some tie wraps and bam - worked like a
charm. No leaks either !
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: <BGCrook(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Pitot tube line?
>
> How is the flexible tubing connected to the alum tubing? My thought was
that
> I could install the bulkhead union fitting in the root rib. If I could
connect
> the flexible tubing to this fitting I could make the transition there at
the
> root rib.
>
> Is this possible? I'm not familar with how the flexible tubing connects.
>
> Bryon Crook
> -7 wings
>
>
---
Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Countersinking Question... (not processed: message |
from valid local sender)
I cut pieces of scrap 3/4 X 2 1/2 of the various thicknesses then drill them
1/2 in from one end deburr and dimple. These simulate the skins you are
countersinking for. I lay the piece with the dimple into the countersink and
deepen the countersink until the piece will lay flat. If the countersink
gets too deep the dimple will lay flat but will move in the countersink.
This gives the correct setting.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com>
Subject: RV-List: Countersinking Question... (not processed: message from
valid local sender)
>
> In the instructions, it talks about increasing the countersink "two
clicks" to accomidate a dimple when you are putting a dimple against a
> countersink to make sure the metals are flat. In order for us to get the
dimpled sheet to lay flat we had to increase the countersink about
> two full turns! and that was just enough to make the metal with the dimple
lay flat. Are we doing someting wrong? the goal is to have the
> dimpled metal lay flat correct? two clicks did nothing... I dont want to
continue past this until I know we are doing it correctly, any feedback
> would be appreciated, thanks.
>
> - Matt
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com> |
| Subject: | Rivet Direction, does it matter? |
(not processed: message from valid local sender)
I am about to rivet the HS-404, 405, 702 and 710 together for the front
spar and ribs on the HS but this question applies in general to all
riveting. Does it matter which direction the rivet goes in and which
side is the shop head? I noticed the plans dont distinctly say so I
imagine
it doesnt, can someone confirm or correct me on this?
- Matt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot tube line? |
You can connect fllexible tubing to AN flared fittings, by using the
flaring tool on the nylon tube. This is an acceptable way to connect
nylon and Al tube, and is the way I did it. But, as was pointed out to
me afterword, it is probably overkill. Use a larger diameter tube to
slip over the ends of both to make the connection. This has worked well
for many others. I'd also leave a couple of feet of Al tube past the
end rib, you can always trim it down later when you decide where to make
the transition.
Jeff Point
>
>Is this possible? I'm not familar with how the flexible tubing connects.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rivet Direction, does it matter? (not processed: message |
from valid local sender)
| From: | "" <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com> |
Matt,
Put the round head on the side with the thinner piece of metal. It prevents the
edges of the flange from curling up as bad.
Scott
7A WIngs
--- On Sun 07/11, Matt Johnson < matt(at)n559rv.com > wrote:
From: Matt Johnson [mailto: matt(at)n559rv.com]
Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2004 22:29:01 -0700
Subject: RV-List: Rivet Direction, does it matter? (not processed: message
from valid local sender)
I am about to rivet the HS-404, 405, 702 and 710 together for the front
spar and ribs on the HS but this question applies in general to all
riveting. Does it matter which direction the rivet goes in and which
side is the shop head? I noticed the plans dont distinctly say so I
imagine
it doesnt, can someone confirm or correct me on this?
- Matt
===========
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet Direction, does it matter? |
It can also reduce stress cracks from the expanding shop head in the thinner
material. There is no official rule about it from FAA that I can find, but
it makes sense to me to put, when practical/possible, the round head on the
side with the thinner material as previously advised. An experienced and
well schooled builder once told me that it was my plane and my life flying
in it. If you have a choice about doing it one way of the other, which way
do you want to go. Your choice.
Lack of information is not a concern, bad information is the real bummer.
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
----- Original Message -----
From: <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Rivet Direction, does it matter? (not processed:
message from valid local sender)
>
>
> Matt,
>
> Put the round head on the side with the thinner piece of metal. It
prevents the edges of the flange from curling up as bad.
>
> Scott
> 7A WIngs
>
>
> --- On Sun 07/11, Matt Johnson < matt(at)n559rv.com > wrote:
> From: Matt Johnson [mailto: matt(at)n559rv.com]
> To: RV7and7A(at)yahoogroups.com, rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2004 22:29:01 -0700
> Subject: RV-List: Rivet Direction, does it matter? (not processed:
message from valid local sender)
>
>
> I am about to rivet the HS-404, 405, 702 and 710 together for the front
> spar and ribs on the HS but this question applies in general to all
> riveting. Does it matter which direction the rivet goes in and which
> side is the shop head? I noticed the plans dont distinctly say so I
> imagine
> it doesnt, can someone confirm or correct me on this?
>
> - Matt
>
>
> ===========
>
>
> Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
> The most personalized portal on the Web!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don/Marcia Piermattei" <dlpier(at)lamar.colostate.edu> |
| Subject: | Paint on plexiglass |
Does anyone out there have a suggestion on removing paint from plexiglass?
Poor masking left me with a few streaks.
Don Piermattei
RV-9A N 192DP
Donald L. Piermattei DVM, PhD
5000 E County Rd 92
Carr, CO 80612
970/568-9047
Fax 970/568-7279
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint on plexiglass |
Kerosene or Stoddard solvent are the safest products to use. Take a look at
any aircraft windshield manufacturer's web site and they are likely to tell
you the same thing. Most other products are dangerous and the damage isn't
apparent until later... People will tell you that alcohol is safe. It is
not. I work in a hospital. Nurses wipe everything down with alcohol, even
when the instructions on the equipment specifically state not to use alcohol
to disinfect. There probably has been a billion dollars worth of medical
equipment ruined by cleaning with alcohol. Why repeat the same mistake over
and over? Use something known to be safe...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don/Marcia Piermattei" <dlpier(at)lamar.colostate.edu>
Subject: RV-List: Paint on plexiglass
>
> Does anyone out there have a suggestion on removing paint from plexiglass?
> Poor masking left me with a few streaks.
>
> Don Piermattei
> RV-9A N 192DP
>
> Donald L. Piermattei DVM, PhD
> 5000 E County Rd 92
> Carr, CO 80612
> 970/568-9047
> Fax 970/568-7279
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV-List Digest: 35 Msgs - 07/10/04 |
>
> From: BGCrook(at)aol.com
> Subject: RV-List: Pitot tube line?
>
>
> Hi all,
>
> I'm getting ready to route my pitot line through the wing. I didn't
> find any info on the plans as to how much tubing should extend out the
root rib.
>
>
> I have considered using a bulkhead union at the root rib instead. Later
when
> the wing was mated to the fuse, I could just make a line to connect the
root
> rib fitting to the fitting in the fuse. However, I don't know if this
would
> work as I have not seen how much room there is between the wing and the
fuse.
>
> Any thoughts or suggestions?
>
> Bryon Crook
> -7 wings
>
>
Hi Bryon-
I had a similar idea originaly. However, flaring the pitot line inside the
wing for the back side of the bulkhead union would be tricky, as would
installing the inbourd B nut of this union once the wing is on the plane.
What I've decided to do is leave about a foot and a half of my aluminum
pitot line protruding from the root rib and bent forward, almost parallel
to the rib. The pitot line from the instruments out the side of the fuse
will be flexible. Once I determine where exactly I want to exit the fuse
with this line, I'll shorten the aluminum line appropriately, slip the flex
line over the end of the aluminum line, and secure with a hose clamp.
Simple, easy, easy to work on in the extremely limited space between the
wing and fuse, and it eliminates three of the four joints / potential leaks
of the jumper / bulkhead union scheme I originallly considered.
FWIW
gm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Birkelbach" <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
| Subject: | Re: stiffeners for the 7 rudder |
Skip the file and go straight from the snips to the scotchbrite wheel.
Godspeed,
Phil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Cours" <rv-j(at)moriarti.org>
Subject: RV-List: stiffeners for the 7 rudder
>
> I've been fabricating the stiffeners for a newer 7-style rudder. I'm
> almost done with them, and will probably finish by the time any
> responses to this message come back, but I'm in this process to learn
> and can't help but wonder if there's a better way.
>
> So far, I've been cutting away the extra aluminum with snips, leaving it
> wide of the line. Then I file to the line with an aluminum file, deburr,
> finish on a scotch-brite wheel, and bend and flute as necessary (since
> the snips tend to distort the soft stiffener stock) to get them flat
> again. It works well, but it's a fairly slow process. Out of curiousity,
> have any of you all come up with a better or faster method?
>
> thanks,
> Jeff
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet Direction, does it matter? |
But if the material thickness are the same, riveting should be arranged to
give the most convenient access to the rivet for bar & gun. The idea being
to make it as easy as possible to get a quality rivet. Note there are some
cases in an RV where a row of rivets may call for several heads to be
reversed to allow a later component or bit of structure to be installed.
Jim Oke
RV-3, RV-6A
Wpg., MB
----- Original Message -----
From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rivet Direction, does it matter?
>
> It can also reduce stress cracks from the expanding shop head in the
thinner
> material. There is no official rule about it from FAA that I can find,
but
> it makes sense to me to put, when practical/possible, the round head on
the
> side with the thinner material as previously advised. An experienced and
> well schooled builder once told me that it was my plane and my life flying
> in it. If you have a choice about doing it one way of the other, which
way
> do you want to go. Your choice.
>
> Lack of information is not a concern, bad information is the real bummer.
>
>
> Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com>
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Rivet Direction, does it matter? (not processed:
> message from valid local sender)
>
>
> >
> >
> > Matt,
> >
> > Put the round head on the side with the thinner piece of metal. It
> prevents the edges of the flange from curling up as bad.
> >
> > Scott
> > 7A WIngs
> >
> >
> > --- On Sun 07/11, Matt Johnson < matt(at)n559rv.com > wrote:
> > From: Matt Johnson [mailto: matt(at)n559rv.com]
> > To: RV7and7A(at)yahoogroups.com, rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2004 22:29:01 -0700
> > Subject: RV-List: Rivet Direction, does it matter? (not
processed:
> message from valid local sender)
> >
> >
> > I am about to rivet the HS-404, 405, 702 and 710 together for the front
> > spar and ribs on the HS but this question applies in general to all
> > riveting. Does it matter which direction the rivet goes in and which
> > side is the shop head? I noticed the plans dont distinctly say so I
> > imagine
> > it doesnt, can someone confirm or correct me on this?
> >
> > - Matt
> >
> >
> > ===========
> >
> >
> > Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
> > The most personalized portal on the Web!
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot tube line? |
The simple answer is that there is not much room between the fuselage side
and the wing root rib. Getting things like wiring, fuel and vent lines
connected is enough of a struggle (unless you have skinny fingers about 8"
long!) that keeping the pitot connection simple is the best plan.
I made my 1/4" alum pitot line to fit with a grommet in the root rib and
then put a 90 bend about 1" past the rib and ran it parallel to the rib
forward about 12" to await further developments. Wait until you have the
fuselage done, the panel installed, and the routing of the pitot line
thought out re: bulkheads and support and exit point through the fuselage
side before getting too fancy.
As others have said, a simple joint with some plastic tubing slide over the
pitot line (from the wing) and some tiewraps or safety wire will do fine at
the end of the day.
Jim Oke
RV-3 RV-6A
Wpg., MB
----- Original Message -----
From: <BGCrook(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Pitot tube line?
>
> Hi all,
>
> I'm getting ready to route my pitot line through the wing. I didn't
> find any info on the plans as to how much tubing should extend out the
root rib.
>
> I have considered using a bulkhead union at the root rib instead. Later
when
> the wing was mated to the fuse, I could just make a line to connect the
root
> rib fitting to the fitting in the fuse. However, I don't know if this
would
> work as I have not seen how much room there is between the wing and the
fuse.
>
> Any thoughts or suggestions?
>
> Bryon Crook
> -7 wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet Direction, does it matter? |
Van's says that if it doesn't interfere with structure it makes no
difference. They agree that it makes intuitive sense to put the
manufactured head on the thin material, but if you are going to put a smile
on the material while driving the rivet it would be better to do it in the
thicker material... It's probably preferable to install it so that the best
quality rivet is obtained.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com>
Subject: RV-List: Rivet Direction, does it matter? (not processed: message
from valid local sender)
>
> I am about to rivet the HS-404, 405, 702 and 710 together for the front
> spar and ribs on the HS but this question applies in general to all
> riveting. Does it matter which direction the rivet goes in and which
> side is the shop head? I noticed the plans dont distinctly say so I
> imagine
> it doesnt, can someone confirm or correct me on this?
>
> - Matt
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Morrow" <DanFM01(at)butter.toast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: stiffeners for the 7 rudder |
A bandsaw works very well for cutting stiffeners. Once you have the fence
set for the desired angle of the cut, you can cut them almost like on an
assembly line. In order to cut the shallow angle taper on one end, I had
to make a T shaped wooden adapter to fit the fence. The bandsaw doesn't
cause any distortion while cutting and gives a fairly smooth cut. All that
is required then is to finish them on the scotchbrite wheel. I have the
inexpensive Sears Craftsman variable speed model with a metal cutting
blade. For cutting thin aluminum, a fixed gear model with wood blade would
probably work fine. It's a rather expensive tool just to cut stiffeners,
but it is useful for other projects.
Dan Morrow
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Cours" <rv-j(at)moriarti.org>
Subject: RV-List: stiffeners for the 7 rudder
>
> I've been fabricating the stiffeners for a newer 7-style rudder. I'm
> almost done with them, and will probably finish by the time any
> responses to this message come back, but I'm in this process to learn
> and can't help but wonder if there's a better way.
>
> So far, I've been cutting away the extra aluminum with snips, leaving it
> wide of the line. Then I file to the line with an aluminum file, deburr,
> finish on a scotch-brite wheel, and bend and flute as necessary (since
> the snips tend to distort the soft stiffener stock) to get them flat
> again. It works well, but it's a fairly slow process. Out of curiousity,
> have any of you all come up with a better or faster method?
>
> thanks,
> Jeff
>
>
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet Direction, does it matter? (not processed: message |
from va...
It is generally agreed that you want the shop head on the heavier gauge part.
This will usually result in less distortion of the shop head side part as
the head forms. I suggest you try squeezing and pounding several trial rivets
on some scrap just to see how this works before experimenting on your
experimental!
One thing that really worked well for me was to make some little donuts from
1/4" thick rubber sheet with a hole in the middle just big enough to hold it
on the shank of the rivet before you squeeze/pound. Just use it until the
rivet starts to expand, then remove and finish the rivet. Holds the rivet in
place on hard-to-access locations, but the main thing is that it will help make
sure there is no gap between the parts as the rivet begins to set.
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark - RV-6A N51PW 80+ hours & packing for OSH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "sportpilot" <sportpilot(at)moneypit.com> |
| Subject: | Part #A906 & A907-L wings alierons |
ok, now I have a question, my plans are dated 11/15/99
kinda old, but on my left wing brackets A906 & A907-L
shows bolts holding them to the alieron and I don't
see
any that are that small, anyone know what bag those
are suppose to be in.. ? do those rivet in ? they show
bolts and washer with nuts.. Danny..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Duckett <perfeng(at)3rivers.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Paint on Plexi |
Hi Don,
As you probably know you want to be careful with what products you use
on your plexi to prevent degradation. Most thinners, reducers, and
petroleum distillates used in refinishing will immediately or eventually
craze the plastic.
If your "streaks" are light to moderate overspray then polishing is
probably the best route to take. There are several products we use that
have worked fine for us and haven't shown any signs of degradtion or
crazing over the years. Both Meguir's and Reflekt make polishes and
glazes without any silicones, waxes, or distillates for doing final
finishes on clear coats and they work just as well on plexi and lexan.
Don't use any compounds (anything above 6 Microns) or you'll have a hard
time polishing the haze out. Plus most compounds have distillates added
to them to aid in the cutting action.
Start with a finish polish, then a final glaze, and finish with a good
cleaning with Plexus. Bottom line is, use the finest polish or glaze
you can that will remove the blemishes.
If your streaks are opaque (numerous coats of finish) it becomes far
more labor intensive and involves a larger area of the plastic. Plus
you will have to do several more stages of polishing.
Probably the easiest way to explain it is to imagine a bullseye. The
center is your blemish and where you will use the most aggresive polish.
With each finer polish you work from the center outward extending past
the last polishing. Be sure to remove all of the previous polish before
starting a finer polishing pass.
This process takes a lot of time and patience to keep from hazing the
plastic or creating a "lens" in the canopy from heavy centralized
polishing using coarse polishes.
Hope this helps...
Jim Duckett N708JD
Jimmie Dee's Custom Hot Rod Shop
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Sensenich Fixed-Pitch Prop |
I am using the 85" with 180 HP XP-360 and it is perfect for all
round use. Plane is an RV6. Talk to Ed Zercher at Sensenich as he is the
guru and I would sure go with his advice. Yours uses short spacer.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
LarryLicking(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Sensenich Fixed-Pitch Prop
Hello All,
I must soon choose a prop for my RV6A, and have definitely (nearly)
decided
on a Sensenich prop. Their web site lists props for a standard cowl and
for a
long cowl. Vans sent an S type cowl, but I cannot determine if this is
a std
or long. Anyone have any idea on this?
Next, what are your experiences with the climb, cruise and standard
pitches?
This may have been covered many times before on this site, but any
thoughts
would be appreciated.
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "sportpilot" <sportpilot(at)moneypit.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Part #A906 & A907-L wings alierons |
Forgot to say its an RV-9A left wing
Subject: RV-List: Part #A906 & A907-L wings alierons
>
>
> ok, now I have a question, my plans are dated 11/15/99
> kinda old, but on my left wing brackets A906 & A907-L
> shows bolts holding them to the alieron and I don't
> see
> any that are that small, anyone know what bag those
> are suppose to be in.. ? do those rivet in ? they show
> bolts and washer with nuts.. Danny..
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Float Wire bends |
tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com wrote:
>
>
>All,
>
>
>I am finishing up the 2nd (right) wing and tank on my RV7a. I am using the standard
Stewart Warner floats, and I have run into a problem. I had no problem
on the left, but it appears that the float will hit the stiffener on the right
if I bend it per the bending instructions included with the floats. I saw Randy
Lervold posted this exact same question quite some time ago in the archives,
but it never got answered. Should I just bend it to fit? Is there any way
to tell the difference between the right and left senders? I have one of the
385B and 385C, but I thought they might be mixed up in the C box.
>
>Thanks,
>Scott
>7A Wings
>www.scottsrv7a.com
>
I haven't gotten to the point of bending wires yet, but my B & C senders
look identical to me. I'd love to see an answer also.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Liming <gary(at)liming.org> |
| Subject: | Van's Turn Coordinator |
Could someone please post the current draw and recommended (by the factory)
fuse requirements for the T/C that Van's sells?
Thanks,
Gary Liming
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: engine seminars at oshkosh |
Here is the EAA link to all of the engine seminars at Oshkosh.
http://www.airventure.org/forums/interest.asp?EventID=12&InterestID=68
Cheers!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Art Glaser" <airplane(at)megsinet.net>
Subject: RV-List: Re: engine seminars at oshkosh
>
> Does anyone remember a post regarding an engine disassembly and
> reassembly seminar at oshkosh? Who, When, Where? I believe it was
> several hours over a couple of days.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:Don't trust this RV-6 Owner |
I too got no payment from a "Noo Yawker" way back when I was selling landing
lights. I don't even remember his name, some Italian sounding name.
He only cheated me out of fifty bucks or so.
I sold more than 400 sets of lights and he was the only deadbeat I found.
That makes a great percentage of RV'ers the best people in the country and other
countries also.
I'm sorry you got hit so hard,but your posting may save someone else from the
crook !!
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Float Wire bends |
| From: | "" <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com> |
Charlie,
After checking with others and finishing the 2nd tank this weekend, I am confident
that the picture for the right wing float bends is wrong. If you look real
close as you go along, it will be real apparent what is the proper way to bend
that arm.
As for distinguishing between the two senders...I am told of a couple ways:
1) hold the sender with the arm poiting down and away. The "SW" will be on the
right side if it is the right tank and the left side if it is the left tank.
2) Position the sender in the tank with the white part facing down...if it is incorrect
the alignment will be off 20 degrees or so.
Scott
7A Wings - 1.75 done
www.scottsrv7a.com
--- On Sun 07/11, Charlie England < ceengland(at)bellsouth.net > wrote:
From: Charlie England [mailto: ceengland(at)bellsouth.net]
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2004 20:12:43 -0500
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Float Wire bends
tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com wrote:
>
>
>All,
>
>
>I am finishing up the 2nd (right) wing and tank on my RV7a. I am using the standard
Stewart Warner floats, and I have run into a problem. I had no problem
on the left, but it appears that the float will hit the stiffener on the right
if I bend it per the bending instructions included with the floats. I saw Randy
Lervold posted this exact same question quite some time ago in the archives,
but it never got answered. Should I just bend it to fit? Is there any way
to tell the difference between the right and left senders? I have one of the
385B and 385C, but I thought they might be mixed up in the C box.
>
>Thanks,
>Scott
>7A Wings
>www.scottsrv7a.com
>
I haven't gotten to the point of bending wires yet, but my B & C senders
look identical
to me. I'd love to see an answer also.
Charlie
/rv-list
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Float Wire bends |
> I am finishing up the 2nd (right) wing and tank on my RV7a. I am using
the standard Stewart Warner floats, and I have run into a problem. I had no
problem on the left, but it appears that the float will hit the stiffener on
the right if I bend it per the bending instructions included with the
floats. I saw Randy Lervold posted this exact same question quite some time
ago in the archives, but it never got answered. Should I just bend it to
fit? Is there any way to tell the difference between the right and left
senders? I have one of the 385B and 385C, but I thought they might be mixed
up in the C box.
>
> Thanks,
> Scott
> 7A Wings
> www.scottsrv7a.com
Scott, as i recall the answer is to simply put the float in from the other
side and it avoids the stiffener completely.
Randy Lervold
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Cours <rv-j(at)moriarti.org> |
| Subject: | Re: stiffeners for the 7 rudder |
Thanks for all the suggestions!
The reason for the fluting is that the snips were mildly distorting the
stiffeners. They come straight/flat from the factory, but the snips made
them slightly concave. Since the stiffeners pretty much control the
shape of the rudder's skin, I wanted to make sure they had the right
shape. I was able to mostly straighten them with seamers but had to
flute a bit to get them completely flat again.
One one of them, I did try going straight from the snips to the
scotchbrite wheel, but it was slow going: for the taper, there were
places I had to leave quite a bit of aluminum. I think the file was
faster...
I guess there's a bandsaw, a belt sander, or both in my future. :-)
thanks again!
Jeff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet Direction, does it matter? (not processed: message |
from va...
In a message dated 7/11/04 11:20:18 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
Fiveonepw(at)aol.com writes:
> One thing that really worked well for me was to make some little donuts
> from
> 1/4" thick rubber sheet with a hole in the middle just big enough to hold it
>
> on the shank of the rivet before you squeeze/pound. Just use it until the
> rivet starts to expand, then remove and finish the rivet. Holds the rivet
> in
> place on hard-to-access locations, but the main thing is that it will help
> make
> sure there is no gap between the parts as the rivet begins to set.
>
> From The PossumWorks in TN
>
> Mark - RV-6A N51PW 80+ hours &packing for OSH
>
>
Great trick Mark! Now you tell me. I'll have to build another airplane to
try that out.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (almost 4 hours!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot tube line? |
Bryon,
Why not just leave enough to run all the way up to the indicator? There is
really no need for a connector. About 15 feet total is plenty if you take the
shortest route. How often do you expect to take the wings off? If you ever
do, you can then use the 1/4 inch id soft tubing to reconnect it. I used the
500 psi plastic brake tubing from Vans, since I don't have a heated pitot.
This heavy wall tubing is not likely to kink, chafe or get pinched. It runs
through the large fuselage hole that the pushrod goes through because the small
hole in the fuselage is out of line with the hole in the wing, if I remember
right. It needed to make a bend that didn't look good when running through the
small hole, so I just used cable ties to tie it to the bottom of the big hole.
It has plenty of clearance from the pushrod.
In retrospect (if you have a sliding canopy), and from some earlier posts, I
would run the static line down the right side of the fuselage and run a longer
(than the 15 ft. mentioned above) pitot line. You would go aft back to the
seat bulkhead, and then up and forward under the canopy skirt along the
longerons. I didn't do this because I already had the static line on the left
side.
This would hide the line better than how mine came out. Maybe I'll change it
later, probably not.
IMHO, YMMV as they say.
Regards,
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (Finally flying)
In a message dated 7/10/04 5:48:16 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
BGCrook(at)aol.com writes:
>
>
> Hi all,
>
> I'm getting ready to route my pitot line through the wing. I didn't
> find any info on the plans as to how much tubing should extend out the root
> rib.
>
> I have considered using a bulkhead union at the root rib instead. Later when
>
> the wing was mated to the fuse, I could just make a line to connect the root
>
> rib fitting to the fitting in the fuse. However, I don't know if this would
> work as I have not seen how much room there is between the wing and the
> fuse.
>
> Any thoughts or suggestions?
>
> Bryon Crook
> -7 wings
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | stiffeners for the 7 rudder |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Bandsaws have already been suggested but I've also had good results with
a small 6" cut-off saw from Harbor Freight (around $30 on sale). Dan
Checkoway has a picture of these on his website:
http://www.rvproject.com/tools.html you'll need to scroll down about 2/3
of the way to see it. This is definitely one of those things that you
could do without but there are times when it is VERY handy.
Bob
RV-10 #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Cours
Subject: Re: RV-List: stiffeners for the 7 rudder
Thanks for all the suggestions!
The reason for the fluting is that the snips were mildly distorting the
stiffeners. They come straight/flat from the factory, but the snips made
them slightly concave. Since the stiffeners pretty much control the
shape of the rudder's skin, I wanted to make sure they had the right
shape. I was able to mostly straighten them with seamers but had to
flute a bit to get them completely flat again.
One one of them, I did try going straight from the snips to the
scotchbrite wheel, but it was slow going: for the taper, there were
places I had to leave quite a bit of aluminum. I think the file was
faster...
I guess there's a bandsaw, a belt sander, or both in my future. :-)
thanks again!
Jeff
=
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Knicholas2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Kim's first flight in N82JN!!! |
Well, yesterday afternoon I could make no more excuses. The weather was
good. Temp mid 70's, light wind from the north. My EAA inspector said she was
ready. THe FAA gave their blessing. I have inspected and "pre-flighted" the
plane multiple times, the engine is running well, taxi tests were great.
With a friend flying chase plane in his Cessna, and just a few friends and
family watching, I took runway 34 at Pierce County (Thun) Airport. Slowly
applied power, kept the stick back to take the load off teh nose wheel....
perfect take off! SHE FLIES!!
I stayed in the pattern at 3000 feet for half an hour. Very smooth. No heavy
wing. Tried turns, slow flight, approach to stall with 1/2 flaps, then full
flaps. Even on climb out all I had to do is trim the elevator and she flew
hands-off. Good pilot sphincter control. I was very nervous about that first
landing but it was near perfect. Easy approach, flare, keep the nose wheel
up... up...up... Time to breath no. .
That was enough. My friends bought me a congralulatory beer with hand shakes
all around.
I was tired.
Kim Nicholas
RV9A FLYING!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Neal E Capt AU/PC <Neal.George(at)maxwell.af.mil> |
Listers -
If you're through building and would like to make room in your tool box, I'm
looking for some stuff like tank dimple dies, longeron yoke, thin-nose
no-hole yoke, flare tool, never know what else...
Contact me off-list at n8zg(at)arrl.net or 334-953-1516 or 334-546-2033.
Neal
RV-7 N8ZG
Wings ordered
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Indicator Lights |
| From: | sjhdcl(at)kingston.net |
Anybody know where I can get some indicator lights made? I want the 1" by
1/4" (or so) lights that have word cutouts on them such as LOW VOLTAGE,
CANOPY OPEN, etc. Cirrus SR22 aircraft have lights like this. Sort of like
most warning lights in cars.
I've tried all sorts of lights on my last RV but never really liked any of
them.
Steve
RV7A - 70015 sold
RV7A - 71629
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | gradual peak EGT creep - significance? |
I have a GRT engine monitor keeping watch over my Lycoming O-320 with fixed pitch
Sensenich prop. For the past 6 years and 400 hours, I have had the monitor
set to notify me at an upper limit EGT of 1520 F, to eliminate nuisance alarms.
Typically, when I lean to peak, and sometimes beyond, the EGT will rise on
#3 cylinder (the one I usually watch) to about 1510 and then drop. Of note,
I can lean this carbureted engine to about 1480 {lean-of-peak} without any roughness
(but with noticable power loss). I lean agressively in cruise, to about
peak, and then stop before power loss becomes a factor.
Over the past three weeks, I have noticed a steady increase in the number of EGT
over-temp alarms which require me to enrich the mixture to cancel them out.
On a recent cross country, this became very annoying. I realize that absolute
EGT readings are almost meaningless, and that one solution to the problem is
to reset the alarm limits on the GRT monitor, but I want to know why the new
trend has developed. Just for science, I went ahead and leaned to peak the other
day and found my "new peak" occurred at 1539 F. This is 25 degrees higher
than I had ever been able to push the EGT in the past 6 years. The engine otherwise
runs normally.
There has been no appreciable difference in fuel burn, static rpm or overall performance.
Could this be: a thermocouple or instrument issue; a change in timing
(e-gap, magneto points, etc); spring summer mogas blended differently this
year than last season; or some other cause I haven't thought of? The engine
is high-compression and has had nothing but 93 octane mogas for the past few months;
in past years I have been more consistent about running some 100LL through
it every now and then. Oil analysis and compression tests don't point to
anything wrong.
Before I just reset my alarm limits and learn to live with new relative readings,
I'd like to make sure there isn't more to be on the lookout for. Thoughts
appreciated.
-BB RV-6A 399 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | richard dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kim's first flight in N82JN!!! |
Congratulations Kim!!!
Richard Dudley
-6A painting
Knicholas2(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>Well, yesterday afternoon I could make no more excuses. The weather was
>good. Temp mid 70's, light wind from the north. My EAA inspector said she was
>ready. THe FAA gave their blessing. I have inspected and "pre-flighted" the
>plane multiple times, the engine is running well, taxi tests were great.
>
>With a friend flying chase plane in his Cessna, and just a few friends and
>family watching, I took runway 34 at Pierce County (Thun) Airport. Slowly
>applied power, kept the stick back to take the load off teh nose wheel....
>perfect take off! SHE FLIES!!
>
>I stayed in the pattern at 3000 feet for half an hour. Very smooth. No heavy
>wing. Tried turns, slow flight, approach to stall with 1/2 flaps, then full
>flaps. Even on climb out all I had to do is trim the elevator and she flew
>hands-off. Good pilot sphincter control. I was very nervous about that first
>landing but it was near perfect. Easy approach, flare, keep the nose wheel
>up... up...up... Time to breath no. .
>
>That was enough. My friends bought me a congralulatory beer with hand shakes
>all around.
>
>I was tired.
>
>Kim Nicholas
>RV9A FLYING!!!
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)direcpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Indicator Lights |
How about these?
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/legendlights.php
Gary
sjhdcl(at)kingston.net wrote:
>
>Anybody know where I can get some indicator lights made? I want the 1" by
>1/4" (or so) lights that have word cutouts on them such as LOW VOLTAGE,
>CANOPY OPEN, etc. Cirrus SR22 aircraft have lights like this. Sort of like
>most warning lights in cars.
>
>I've tried all sorts of lights on my last RV but never really liked any of
>them.
>
>Steve
>RV7A - 70015 sold
>RV7A - 71629
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: gradual peak EGT creep - significance? |
I'll bet it's ignition related. Turn off each mag in flight, one mag at a
time. When you turn off the mag you should see a rise in EGT on all 4
cylinders. If you don't see one or more cylinders' EGT rise, then you
pretty much know you've got a spark/ignition issue there. If all four
cylinders' EGTs rise when you turn off each mag, then you can rule out that
possibility.
On a recent flight I noticed cylinders 3 & 4 running hotter EGT than
"normal," and when I shut of my one mag (running only on the EI), the engine
ran rough at best. When I shut off the EI, only cylinders 1 & 2 EGTs
rose...I knew immediately that the coil firing 3 & 4 wasn't doing its job.
Traced the problem to a wiring fault, done deal.
I got into a debate last week when I attended the FAA's seminar on "Modern
Piston Engine Management." It was aimed at people running with fuel
injection and all-cylinder EGT monitoring capability, because the topic of
conversation was lean of peak operations. Right up my alley. But there
were some people with carb+single probe EGT there...the discussion didn't
really apply to them, but they asked if there was any rationalization for
having a 4-probe EGT on their O-360. Most people said, "Don't spend the
money, it's a waste." But I argue strongly on the other side of the fence.
The more engine monitoring we have, the more quickly we can detect and
diagnose a problem.
Just my 2 cents (only partially relevant, sorry).
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <SportAV8R(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: gradual peak EGT creep - significance?
>
> I have a GRT engine monitor keeping watch over my Lycoming O-320 with
fixed pitch Sensenich prop. For the past 6 years and 400 hours, I have had
the monitor set to notify me at an upper limit EGT of 1520 F, to eliminate
nuisance alarms. Typically, when I lean to peak, and sometimes beyond, the
EGT will rise on #3 cylinder (the one I usually watch) to about 1510 and
then drop. Of note, I can lean this carbureted engine to about 1480
{lean-of-peak} without any roughness (but with noticable power loss). I lean
agressively in cruise, to about peak, and then stop before power loss
becomes a factor.
>
> Over the past three weeks, I have noticed a steady increase in the number
of EGT over-temp alarms which require me to enrich the mixture to cancel
them out. On a recent cross country, this became very annoying. I realize
that absolute EGT readings are almost meaningless, and that one solution to
the problem is to reset the alarm limits on the GRT monitor, but I want to
know why the new trend has developed. Just for science, I went ahead and
leaned to peak the other day and found my "new peak" occurred at 1539 F.
This is 25 degrees higher than I had ever been able to push the EGT in the
past 6 years. The engine otherwise runs normally.
>
> There has been no appreciable difference in fuel burn, static rpm or
overall performance. Could this be: a thermocouple or instrument issue; a
change in timing (e-gap, magneto points, etc); spring summer mogas blended
differently this year than last season; or some other cause I haven't
thought of? The engine is high-compression and has had nothing but 93
octane mogas for the past few months; in past years I have been more
consistent about running some 100LL through it every now and then. Oil
analysis and compression tests don't point to anything wrong.
>
> Before I just reset my alarm limits and learn to live with new relative
readings, I'd like to make sure there isn't more to be on the lookout for.
Thoughts appreciated.
>
> -BB RV-6A 399 hrs
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Walker" <ron(at)walker.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kim's first flight in N82JN!!! |
Fantastic! I know that feeling all too well! Just went through it myself
with my 7A on the 4th of July !!!
Keep it goin! Congrats!
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: <Knicholas2(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Kim's first flight in N82JN!!!
>
> Well, yesterday afternoon I could make no more excuses. The weather was
> good. Temp mid 70's, light wind from the north. My EAA inspector said she
was
> ready. THe FAA gave their blessing. I have inspected and "pre-flighted"
the
> plane multiple times, the engine is running well, taxi tests were great.
>
> With a friend flying chase plane in his Cessna, and just a few friends
and
> family watching, I took runway 34 at Pierce County (Thun) Airport.
Slowly
> applied power, kept the stick back to take the load off teh nose wheel....
> perfect take off! SHE FLIES!!
>
> I stayed in the pattern at 3000 feet for half an hour. Very smooth. No
heavy
> wing. Tried turns, slow flight, approach to stall with 1/2 flaps, then
full
> flaps. Even on climb out all I had to do is trim the elevator and she
flew
> hands-off. Good pilot sphincter control. I was very nervous about that
first
> landing but it was near perfect. Easy approach, flare, keep the nose
wheel
> up... up...up... Time to breath no. .
>
> That was enough. My friends bought me a congralulatory beer with hand
shakes
> all around.
>
> I was tired.
>
> Kim Nicholas
> RV9A FLYING!!!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Indicator Lights |
If you want to make up your own, this line of LED indicators at Digikey
may be just what you are looking for.
MU04-2101 (0.8 x .027) or MU07-2101 (1.2 x 0.27). These are red, other
are colors available.
Just go to www.digikey.com and enter the part number. You can then get
to the page or the vendor's info.
Dick Tasker, RV9A # 90573
sjhdcl(at)kingston.net wrote:
>
>Anybody know where I can get some indicator lights made? I want the 1" by
>1/4" (or so) lights that have word cutouts on them such as LOW VOLTAGE,
>CANOPY OPEN, etc. Cirrus SR22 aircraft have lights like this. Sort of like
>most warning lights in cars.
>
>I've tried all sorts of lights on my last RV but never really liked any of
>them.
>
>Steve
>RV7A - 70015 sold
>RV7A - 71629
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kathleen (rv7)" <Kathleen(at)rv7.us> |
| Subject: | gradual peak EGT creep - significance? |
Dan raised the issue of finding these problems through having constant
monitoring of EGT for all cylinders. He's right. You can't live without
it. We recently lost a Mooney 201, and almost our lives, because of
partially clogged fuel injectors shortly after a warm day takeoff from a
5000' msl mountain airport. With only 1 cylinder being monitored for EGT,
the problem wasn't immediately apparent. Had we had 4-channel EGT, we may
have landed back at the airport instead of cartwheeling along a steep rocky
mountainside. In our case, Dan's 2 cents worth would have equaled avoiding
the loss of a nice airplane and months in the hospital. Hmmm, let's see,
that, or the cost of an EGT? A lesson hard learned. If you're not flying
with all-cylinder EGT monitoring, you'd better give it some really serious
thought. You can bet your hind quarters that I'm not flying anything
without it...
Kathleen Evans
www.rv7.us
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
Subject: Re: RV-List: gradual peak EGT creep - significance?
I'll bet it's ignition related. Turn off each mag in flight, one mag at a
time. When you turn off the mag you should see a rise in EGT on all 4
cylinders. If you don't see one or more cylinders' EGT rise, then you
pretty much know you've got a spark/ignition issue there. If all four
cylinders' EGTs rise when you turn off each mag, then you can rule out that
possibility.
On a recent flight I noticed cylinders 3 & 4 running hotter EGT than
"normal," and when I shut of my one mag (running only on the EI), the engine
ran rough at best. When I shut off the EI, only cylinders 1 & 2 EGTs
rose...I knew immediately that the coil firing 3 & 4 wasn't doing its job.
Traced the problem to a wiring fault, done deal.
I got into a debate last week when I attended the FAA's seminar on "Modern
Piston Engine Management." It was aimed at people running with fuel
injection and all-cylinder EGT monitoring capability, because the topic of
conversation was lean of peak operations. Right up my alley. But there
were some people with carb+single probe EGT there...the discussion didn't
really apply to them, but they asked if there was any rationalization for
having a 4-probe EGT on their O-360. Most people said, "Don't spend the
money, it's a waste." But I argue strongly on the other side of the fence.
The more engine monitoring we have, the more quickly we can detect and
diagnose a problem.
Just my 2 cents (only partially relevant, sorry).
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <SportAV8R(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: gradual peak EGT creep - significance?
>
> I have a GRT engine monitor keeping watch over my Lycoming O-320 with
fixed pitch Sensenich prop. For the past 6 years and 400 hours, I have had
the monitor set to notify me at an upper limit EGT of 1520 F, to eliminate
nuisance alarms. Typically, when I lean to peak, and sometimes beyond, the
EGT will rise on #3 cylinder (the one I usually watch) to about 1510 and
then drop. Of note, I can lean this carbureted engine to about 1480
{lean-of-peak} without any roughness (but with noticable power loss). I lean
agressively in cruise, to about peak, and then stop before power loss
becomes a factor.
>
> Over the past three weeks, I have noticed a steady increase in the number
of EGT over-temp alarms which require me to enrich the mixture to cancel
them out. On a recent cross country, this became very annoying. I realize
that absolute EGT readings are almost meaningless, and that one solution to
the problem is to reset the alarm limits on the GRT monitor, but I want to
know why the new trend has developed. Just for science, I went ahead and
leaned to peak the other day and found my "new peak" occurred at 1539 F.
This is 25 degrees higher than I had ever been able to push the EGT in the
past 6 years. The engine otherwise runs normally.
>
> There has been no appreciable difference in fuel burn, static rpm or
overall performance. Could this be: a thermocouple or instrument issue; a
change in timing (e-gap, magneto points, etc); spring summer mogas blended
differently this year than last season; or some other cause I haven't
thought of? The engine is high-compression and has had nothing but 93
octane mogas for the past few months; in past years I have been more
consistent about running some 100LL through it every now and then. Oil
analysis and compression tests don't point to anything wrong.
>
> Before I just reset my alarm limits and learn to live with new relative
readings, I'd like to make sure there isn't more to be on the lookout for.
Thoughts appreciated.
>
> -BB RV-6A 399 hrs
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: gradual peak EGT creep - significance? |
IMO, multi cylinder engine moniters should be
considered a must in ANY piston airplane. As Dan
indicated, they can be tremendously useful in
diagnosing engine problems.
If the ignition checks don't turn up anything, try
doing a compression check, and listen specifically for
exhaust valve leakage. Leaky exhaust valves can also
cause an increase in EGT's.
--- Dan Checkoway wrote:
>
>
> I'll bet it's ignition related. Turn off each mag
> in flight, one mag at a
> time. When you turn off the mag you should see a
> rise in EGT on all 4
> cylinders. If you don't see one or more cylinders'
> EGT rise, then you
> pretty much know you've got a spark/ignition issue
> there. If all four
> cylinders' EGTs rise when you turn off each mag,
> then you can rule out that
> possibility.
>
>.........................................
>
> I got into a debate last week when I attended the
> FAA's seminar on "Modern
> Piston Engine Management." It was aimed at people
> running with fuel
> injection and all-cylinder EGT monitoring
> capability, because the topic of
> conversation was lean of peak operations. Right up
> my alley. But there
> were some people with carb+single probe EGT
> there...the discussion didn't
> really apply to them, but they asked if there was
> any rationalization for
> having a 4-probe EGT on their O-360. Most people
> said, "Don't spend the
> money, it's a waste." But I argue strongly on the
> other side of the fence.
> The more engine monitoring we have, the more quickly
> we can detect and
> diagnose a problem.
>
> Just my 2 cents (only partially relevant, sorry).
>
__________________________________
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Philip Condon" <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | Burt Rutan's space ship and flight into space - first homebuilt |
in space
http://www.richard-seaman.com/Aircraft/AirShows/SpaceShipOne2004/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
| Subject: | Determining Compression Ratio |
Is there a simple method of determining the compression ratio on a Lycoming
O-320 that may or may not have been upgraded to larger pistons without
taking anything apart and without using some exotic measuring devise?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cammie Patch" <cammie(at)sunvalley.net> |
| Subject: | stiffeners for the 7 rudder |
The stiffeners can be maddeningly boring. I trim them just shy of the line
with a band saw, sand the edges on a 12" disc sander (one of my most valuble
building tools http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?itemnumber=G7297 ),
and then finish with a finer grit on a sanding block then debur quickly with
scotchbrite (the wheel or manually). No fluting necessary. The snips-file
route would be way to slow for me.
Cammie
brake pedals
7a
I've been fabricating the stiffeners for a newer 7-style rudder. I'm
almost done with them, and will probably finish by the time any
responses to this message come back, but I'm in this process to learn
and can't help but wonder if there's a better way.
So far, I've been cutting away the extra aluminum with snips, leaving it
wide of the line. Then I file to the line with an aluminum file, deburr,
finish on a scotch-brite wheel, and bend and flute as necessary (since
the snips tend to distort the soft stiffener stock) to get them flat
again. It works well, but it's a fairly slow process. Out of curiousity,
have any of you all come up with a better or faster method?
thanks,
Jeff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | stiffeners for the 7 rudder |
I'll do ya one better! After building 2 of these things the old slow way, I
have a tool that is hands down the most invaluable I have. It's bench
grinder with 2 3M scotchbrite wheels on it. On the left side I have a
"deburring wheel" which is like the abrasive quality of the brown
scotchbrite wheels, and on the right I have a finer buffing/polishing wheel
which is the consistancy of the blue scotchbrite wheels. No more using both
the disc sander and then the scotchbrite wheels. The left wheel is course
enought to grind corners and material, and the right wheel is fine enought
to polish with.
I agree with Cammie, cut with the bandsaw, then I just cleaned them up with
the scothbrite wheels on the bench grinder. It's VERY FAST, and does a
great job. Once again a tool I don't know how I did without on the 1st
plane.... The wheels are pricey but last a long time.
I still used the disc sander for thick (.063+) materials, but any thinner
than that and the scotchbrite wheels work fine. The RV7/9 rudder is not
difficult, I think I spend less than a day building the whole thing. I had
a head start after having built 2 of the old folded RV6 rudders though.
Just my 2 cents,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Cammie Patch
Subject: RE: RV-List: stiffeners for the 7 rudder
The stiffeners can be maddeningly boring. I trim them just shy of the line
with a band saw, sand the edges on a 12" disc sander (one of my most valuble
building tools http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?itemnumber=G7297 ),
and then finish with a finer grit on a sanding block then debur quickly with
scotchbrite (the wheel or manually). No fluting necessary. The snips-file
route would be way to slow for me.
Cammie
brake pedals
7a
I've been fabricating the stiffeners for a newer 7-style rudder. I'm
almost done with them, and will probably finish by the time any
responses to this message come back, but I'm in this process to learn
and can't help but wonder if there's a better way.
So far, I've been cutting away the extra aluminum with snips, leaving it
wide of the line. Then I file to the line with an aluminum file, deburr,
finish on a scotch-brite wheel, and bend and flute as necessary (since
the snips tend to distort the soft stiffener stock) to get them flat
again. It works well, but it's a fairly slow process. Out of curiousity,
have any of you all come up with a better or faster method?
thanks,
Jeff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Kim's first flight in N82JN!!! |
Kim,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: Knicholas2(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Kim's first flight in N82JN!!!
>Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2004 10:36:01 EDT
>
>
>Well, yesterday afternoon I could make no more excuses. The weather was
>good. Temp mid 70's, light wind from the north. My EAA inspector said she
>was
>ready. THe FAA gave their blessing. I have inspected and "pre-flighted"
>the
>plane multiple times, the engine is running well, taxi tests were great.
>
>With a friend flying chase plane in his Cessna, and just a few friends and
>family watching, I took runway 34 at Pierce County (Thun) Airport. Slowly
>applied power, kept the stick back to take the load off teh nose wheel....
>perfect take off! SHE FLIES!!
>
>I stayed in the pattern at 3000 feet for half an hour. Very smooth. No
>heavy
>wing. Tried turns, slow flight, approach to stall with 1/2 flaps, then
>full
>flaps. Even on climb out all I had to do is trim the elevator and she flew
>hands-off. Good pilot sphincter control. I was very nervous about that
>first
>landing but it was near perfect. Easy approach, flare, keep the nose wheel
>up... up...up... Time to breath no. .
>
>That was enough. My friends bought me a congralulatory beer with hand
>shakes
>all around.
>
>I was tired.
>
>Kim Nicholas
>RV9A FLYING!!!
>
>
http://join.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200361ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Fwd: Speed improvement? -Antenna effects |
Hi All,
Just thought I would forward some information from a TC A/C site.
Jim Ayers
Subj:Speed improvement? - Antenna effects
Date:07/12/2004 6:15:28 PM Pacific Daylight Time
From:jeff(at)irealtylink.com
To:grumman-gang(at)xmission.com
Sent from the Internet (Details)
There is a recent article in Plane & Pilot which features the Socata
Trinidad. Interesting enough, the engineers at Socata actually
quantified the cruise speed impact of each antenna:
ADF - .75 knots
G/S - .32 knots
VOR - .59 knots
ELT - .16 knots
Other items:
Non-enclosed wingtip strobes - .43 knots
Rotating beacon - .16 knots
They also mention that Roy LoPresti once did a test of a Mooney 201
before/after removing all of the antennas. He gained 3.5 knots.
Jeff Simon
Approach Aviation
www.ApproachAviation.com
Phone: (978) 567-9909
Fax: (801) 697-4537
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Imfairings(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kim's first flight in N82JN!!! |
Congratulations Kim on your first flight.
Bob Snedaker
Fairings-Etc
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: indicator lights |
| From: | sjhdcl(at)kingston.net |
Tried those. Had 5 of them in the last RV. They really need to be shielded
from direct sunlight. Not quite what I'm looking for.
Steve
RV7A
> From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)direcpc.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Indicator Lights
>
>
> How about these?
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/legendlights.php
> Gary
>
> sjhdcl(at)kingston.net wrote:
>
>>
>>Anybody know where I can get some indicator lights made? I want the 1" by
>>1/4" (or so) lights that have word cutouts on them such as LOW VOLTAGE,
>>CANOPY OPEN, etc. Cirrus SR22 aircraft have lights like this. Sort of
>> like
>>most warning lights in cars.
>>
>>I've tried all sorts of lights on my last RV but never really liked any
>> of
>>them.
>>
>>Steve
>>RV7A - 70015 sold
>>RV7A - 71629
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | stiffeners for the 7 rudder |
I do most of my metal cutting with a cutoff wheel in an angle die
grinder. On thin aluminum it cuts like butter and you can go right to
the line. Just clamp the work down so it doesn't move and run a finger
along the edge of the bench to help steady the die grinder.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Cours
Subject: Re: RV-List: stiffeners for the 7 rudder
Thanks for all the suggestions!
The reason for the fluting is that the snips were mildly distorting the
stiffeners. They come straight/flat from the factory, but the snips made
them slightly concave. Since the stiffeners pretty much control the
shape of the rudder's skin, I wanted to make sure they had the right
shape. I was able to mostly straighten them with seamers but had to
flute a bit to get them completely flat again.
One one of them, I did try going straight from the snips to the
scotchbrite wheel, but it was slow going: for the taper, there were
places I had to leave quite a bit of aluminum. I think the file was
faster...
I guess there's a bandsaw, a belt sander, or both in my future. :-)
thanks again!
Jeff
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
Anyone care to hazard a guess as to what an Air Beetle is before clicking on the
enclosed link?
http://www.dananig.com/air_betle.htm
Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
Isn't that the RV that Van's sold a bunch of to the Nigerian air force
as a primary trainer?
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Galati
Subject: RV-List: The Air Beetle
Anyone care to hazard a guess as to what an Air Beetle is before
clicking on the enclosed link?
http://www.dananig.com/air_betle.htm
Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The Air Beetle |
The Nigerian Air Force uses them. They also have RV grins!
Anyone care to hazard a guess as to what an Air Beetle is before clicking on the
enclosed link?
http://www.dananig.com/air_betle.htm
Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rebibb(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Question for engine gurus |
I have an O-320-E2D with about 900 hours or so on it. I have removed the cylinders
for inspection (the engine has been sittting around for awhile) and I can
see evidence of some spalling on the tappet faces. I cannot see any evidence
of lobe damage to the camshaft but I can't get that good a look without tearing
the engine apart further.
Question is: Is any level of spalling "acceptable" or is evidence of any reason
for rework/replacement of Camshaft and/or tappet faces?
I'm only looking to see if I should bite the bullet now or can I get a few more
hundred hours out of this as is. Of course it is preferable to redo the engine
now but I plan on upgrading to a larger engine in the future (either by adding
high compression pistons to this engine or going the whole nine yards to a
O-360/Constant speed setup.
How close to the original mirror finish does the tappet face have to remain before
it is declared junk?
I'm not really intertested in everyone's opionion on why it makes more sense to
do the overhaul now but rather to gain the knowledge to be able to intelligently
determine whether I HAVE to do it now to be safe.
I already know how to change a lightbulb....
Thanks,
Richard Bibb
RV-4 N144KT - being rebuilt for economical fun.
M20F N212WD - for going places
T6-G N3518G - for making noise and having uneconomical fun.
I have an O-320-E2D with about 900 hours or so on it. I have removed the cylinders
for inspection (the engine has been sittting around for awhile) and I can
see evidence of some spalling on the tappet faces. I cannot see any evidence of
lobe damage to the camshaft but I can't get that good a look without tearing
the engine apart further.
Question is: Is any level of spalling "acceptable" or is evidence of any reason
for rework/replacement of Camshaft and/or tappet faces?
I'm only looking to see if I should bite the bullet now or can I get a few more
hundred hours out of this as is. Of course it is preferable to redo the engine
now but I plan on upgrading to a larger engine in the future (either by adding
high compression pistons to this engine or going the whole nine yards to a
O-360/Constant speed setup.
How close to the original mirror finish does the tappet face have to remain before
it is declared junk?
I'm not really intertested in everyone's opionion on why it makes more sense to
do the overhaul now but rather to gain the knowledge to be able to intelligently
determine whether I HAVE to do it now to be safe.
I already know how to change a lightbulb....
Thanks,
Richard Bibb
RV-4 N144KT - being rebuilt for economical fun.
M20F N212WD - for going places
T6-G N3518G - for making noise and having uneconomical fun.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Question for engine gurus |
rebibb(at)comcast.net wrote:
>
>I have an O-320-E2D with about 900 hours or so on it. I have removed the cylinders
for inspection (the engine has been sittting around for awhile) and I can
see evidence of some spalling on the tappet faces. I cannot see any evidence
of lobe damage to the camshaft but I can't get that good a look without tearing
the engine apart further.
>Question is: Is any level of spalling "acceptable"
>
No
> or is evidence of any reason for rework/replacement of Camshaft and/or tappet
faces?
>
Rework/replacement of the cam followers is the only option.
>I'm only looking to see if I should bite the bullet now or can I get a few more
hundred hours out of this as is.
>
How much of a gambler are you? Failure would be gradual but along with
the cam followers you'll need a new camshaft.
> Of course it is preferable to redo the engine now
>
Of course!
> but I plan on upgrading to a larger engine in the future (either by adding high
compression pistons to this engine
>
You can do that now too.
> or going the whole nine yards to a O-360/Constant speed setup.
>
MUCH easier to make this decision now and avoid dismantling the airplane
later. Once you're flying, you'll do just about anything to keep from
taking it apart!!! Not a good mental choice.
>How close to the original mirror finish does the tappet face have to remain before
it is declared junk?
>
That depends on the depth of the spalling. The cam followers can be
faced if they're not too bad. This is one area that just a little
rust/corrosion can do a lot of damage. The faces aren't usually 'flat'
but are concave so that they rotate a little under use.
>I'm not really intertested in everyone's opionion on why it makes more sense to
do the overhaul now but rather to gain the knowledge to be able to intelligently
determine whether I HAVE to do it now to be safe.
>
Like I said, you're the gambler and it'll only cost more down the road.
Cam's ain't cheap! You don't HAVE to do it now ..... it's just SMARTER
to do it now. Something to think about. As the cam lobes deteriorate,
so does your available power. And it's insidious ...... you'll probably
not even be aware that it's happening ...... but one day at high DA
..... you'll be reminded.
Linn
> I already know how to change a lightbulb....
>Thanks,
>Richard Bibb
>RV-4 N144KT - being rebuilt for economical fun.
>M20F N212WD - for going places
>T6-G N3518G - for making noise and having uneconomical fun.
>
>
>I have an O-320-E2D with about 900 hours or so on it. I have removed the cylinders
for inspection (the engine has been sittting around for awhile) and I can
see evidence of some spalling on the tappet faces. I cannot see any evidence
of lobe damage to the camshaft but I can't get that good a look without tearing
the engine apart further.
>
>
>Question is: Is any level of spalling "acceptable" or is evidence of any reason
for rework/replacement of Camshaft and/or tappet faces?
>
>
>I'm only looking to see if I should bite the bullet now or can I get a few more
hundred hours out of this as is. Of course it is preferable to redo the engine
now but I plan on upgrading to a larger engine in the future (either by adding
high compression pistons to this engine or going the whole nine yards to a
O-360/Constant speed setup.
>
>
>How close to the original mirror finish does the tappet face have to remain before
it is declared junk?
>
>
>I'm not really intertested in everyone's opionion on why it makes more sense to
do the overhaul now but rather to gain the knowledge to be able to intelligently
determine whether I HAVE to do it now to be safe.
>
>
>I already know how to change a lightbulb....
>
>
>Thanks,
>
>
>Richard Bibb
>
>
>RV-4 N144KT - being rebuilt for economical fun.
>
>
>M20F N212WD - for going places
>
>
>T6-G N3518G - for making noise and having uneconomical fun.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Question for engine gurus |
Richard,
If there is spalling on the tappets you can pretty much accept that there is
galling on the cam lobes and it needs inspeciton and rework.
Mike Robertson
>From: rebibb(at)comcast.net
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Question for engine gurus
>Spam tool pattern in MIME boundary
>
>
>I have an O-320-E2D with about 900 hours or so on it. I have removed the
>cylinders for inspection (the engine has been sittting around for awhile)
>and I can see evidence of some spalling on the tappet faces. I cannot see
>any evidence of lobe damage to the camshaft but I can't get that good a
>look without tearing the engine apart further.
>Question is: Is any level of spalling "acceptable" or is evidence of any
>reason for rework/replacement of Camshaft and/or tappet faces?
>I'm only looking to see if I should bite the bullet now or can I get a few
>more hundred hours out of this as is. Of course it is preferable to redo
>the engine now but I plan on upgrading to a larger engine in the future
>(either by adding high compression pistons to this engine or going the
>whole nine yards to a O-360/Constant speed setup.
>How close to the original mirror finish does the tappet face have to remain
>before it is declared junk?
>I'm not really intertested in everyone's opionion on why it makes more
>sense to do the overhaul now but rather to gain the knowledge to be able to
>intelligently determine whether I HAVE to do it now to be safe.
> I already know how to change a lightbulb....
>Thanks,
>Richard Bibb
>RV-4 N144KT - being rebuilt for economical fun.
>M20F N212WD - for going places
>T6-G N3518G - for making noise and having uneconomical fun.
>
>
>I have an O-320-E2D with about 900 hours or so on it. I have removed the
>cylinders for inspection (the engine has been sittting around for awhile)
>and I can see evidence of some spalling on the tappet faces. I cannot see
>any evidence of lobe damage to the camshaft but I can't get that good a
>look without tearing the engine apart further.
>
>
>Question is: Is any level of spalling "acceptable" or is evidence of any
>reason for rework/replacement of Camshaft and/or tappet faces?
>
>
>I'm only looking to see if I should bite the bullet now or can I get a few
>more hundred hours out of this as is. Of course it is preferable to redo
>the engine now but I plan on upgrading to a larger engine in the future
>(either by adding high compression pistons to this engine or going the
>whole nine yards to a O-360/Constant speed setup.
>
>
>How close to the original mirror finish does the tappet face have to remain
>before it is declared junk?
>
>
>I'm not really intertested in everyone's opionion on why it makes more
>sense to do the overhaul now but rather to gain the knowledge to be able to
>intelligently determine whether I HAVE to do it now to be safe.
>
>
>I already know how to change a lightbulb....
>
>
>Thanks,
>
>
>Richard Bibb
>
>
>RV-4 N144KT - being rebuilt for economical fun.
>
>
>M20F N212WD - for going places
>
>
>T6-G N3518G - for making noise and having uneconomical fun.
>
>
http://join.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200361ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alan McKeen" <amckeen(at)twcny.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re:Don't trust this RV-6 Owner |
From Yahoo people search. I do not know him but there are several very nice RV
plane and builders in the Buffalo NY area. They probably know who he is and
what he is up to.
Steven Dinieri
1202 Main St
Niagara Falls, NY
(716) 285-8935
rom: mark phipps
Subject: Re: Dont trust this RV6 owner
Hi Conrad, Good to hear from you. He owes $200. I also was hoping someone
on the
list knows this person. Sadly in these cases one of the two parties involved
has to send either the money or goods on faith. I would not have expected
this
from a fellow RV'r.
Mark Phipps
Konrad Werner wrote:
Dear Mark,
Sorry to hear that some RV'er is trying to not pay you for parts sent on
good faith.
What is the amount he owes you? Does anybody in the list know this guy?
Konrad
----- Original Message -----
From: mark phipps
Subject: RV-List: Dont trust this RV6 owner
Listers, Watch out for RV6 owner and RV10 builder Steve Dinieri of New York.
He
came on the list 3 months ago looking for a rudder for his six. I agreed
to sell
him an extra I had and made the mistake of sending it to him before I was
paid. Guess what, 3 months later and no money, says he is too busy. My mistake
evidently. If you deal with this person or know him, make sure you get paid
first.
Mark Phipps, N242RP, RV6A, Almost Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mark phipps <skydive80020(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re:Don't trust this RV-6 Owner |
Thanks for the info Alan.
Mark Phipps
Alan McKeen wrote:
From Yahoo people search. I do not know him but there are several very nice RV
plane and builders in the Buffalo NY area. They probably know who he is and what
he is up to.
Steven Dinieri
1202 Main St
Niagara Falls, NY
(716) 285-8935
rom: mark phipps
Subject: Re: Dont trust this RV6 owner
Hi Conrad, Good to hear from you. He owes $200. I also was hoping someone on the
list knows this person. Sadly in these cases one of the two parties involved
has to send either the money or goods on faith. I would not have expected this
from a fellow RV'r.
Mark Phipps
Konrad Werner wrote:
Dear Mark,
Sorry to hear that some RV'er is trying to not pay you for parts sent on good faith.
What is the amount he owes you? Does anybody in the list know this guy?
Konrad
----- Original Message -----
From: mark phipps
Subject: RV-List: Dont trust this RV6 owner
Listers, Watch out for RV6 owner and RV10 builder Steve Dinieri of New York. He
came on the list 3 months ago looking for a rudder for his six. I agreed to sell
him an extra I had and made the mistake of sending it to him before I was
paid. Guess what, 3 months later and no money, says he is too busy. My mistake
evidently. If you deal with this person or know him, make sure you get paid first.
Mark Phipps, N242RP, RV6A, Almost Flying
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Barnes" <skytop(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Determining Compression Ratio |
John,
This method is anything but exotic, but it works on light weight
motorcycle engines where they can easily be moved around. You can give it
some thought and consider if it will work for you.
If the engine is on the bench,
and you have relatively good piston rings in the cylinder to be tested,
stand the cylinder upright,
squirt a little oil around the piston to seal the rings,
position the piston to compression stroke, top-dead-center.
Use a dispensor that can measure CC's and fill the head cavity up to the
bottom of the spark plug threads and note the volume that was added.
Example: 90 cc's.
Next, you have to come up with the piston displacement. If you know the
exact bore and stroke, you can calculate it using the pi * R squared
formula.
The ugly way to find the piston displacement is to rotate the engine to
bottom-dead-center and repeat the process and record the amount liquid added
on this second run leaving the initial liquid in the chamber. Record the
volume. Example 900 cc's.
Your answer is the ratio between the two numbers. Example: 900 : 90 or
simply 10 : 1
Good luck.
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com>
Subject: RV-List: Determining Compression Ratio
>
> Is there a simple method of determining the compression ratio on a
Lycoming
> O-320 that may or may not have been upgraded to larger pistons without
> taking anything apart and without using some exotic measuring devise?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Determining Compression Ratio |
Wouldn't it be (900+90) : 90 ?
Charlie
Tom Barnes wrote:
>
>John,
> This method is anything but exotic, but it works on light weight
>motorcycle engines where they can easily be moved around. You can give it
>some thought and consider if it will work for you.
>
>If the engine is on the bench,
>and you have relatively good piston rings in the cylinder to be tested,
>stand the cylinder upright,
>squirt a little oil around the piston to seal the rings,
>position the piston to compression stroke, top-dead-center.
>Use a dispensor that can measure CC's and fill the head cavity up to the
>bottom of the spark plug threads and note the volume that was added.
>Example: 90 cc's.
>Next, you have to come up with the piston displacement. If you know the
>exact bore and stroke, you can calculate it using the pi * R squared
>formula.
>The ugly way to find the piston displacement is to rotate the engine to
>bottom-dead-center and repeat the process and record the amount liquid added
>on this second run leaving the initial liquid in the chamber. Record the
>volume. Example 900 cc's.
>Your answer is the ratio between the two numbers. Example: 900 : 90 or
>simply 10 : 1
>
>Good luck.
> Tom
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com>
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Determining Compression Ratio
>
>
>
>
>>
>>Is there a simple method of determining the compression ratio on a
>>
>>
>Lycoming
>
>
>>O-320 that may or may not have been upgraded to larger pistons without
>>taking anything apart and without using some exotic measuring devise?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Beene" <kbeene(at)citilink.com> |
| Subject: | Question for engine gurus |
Richard,
My engine is an O-320 E3D that was removed from service at 2250 hours total
time because of bad lifters and cam. The cam has only six lobes since two
of the lobes operate valves on both sides of the engine. These are the ones
that normally fail first. Most of the lifters showed some damage but the
ones on the second lobe from the front were the worst. I will send some
pictures of different ones removed from my engine. This might give you some
idea of how bad they can get and the engine still run.
It might be difficult to see the damage to the cam without close inspection.
The number two lobe didn't look so bad but it measures a full 0.1 inches
less in diameter than some of the other ones. This will cause a loss of
power on those cylinders.
I understand the desire to fly the engine and overhaul later. There is the
concern of testing a new overhaul and airplane at the same time as well as
the need to run high power during engine break-in. I think the any spalling
is not acceptable but I don't know how rapidly the existing spalling will
increase. If you decide to run the engine without overhaul, I would change
oil more frequently as the engine will "make metal" and there is the concern
of damaging other good components in the engine -- such as the crank;
however my crank measured to new tolerances and only required polishing.
You mentioned that you were considering a constant speed prop. Although the
E2D does not have a solid crank, the case, front bearing and rear accessory
case are not designed for constant speed use.
I updated my engine to 160 hp. My E3D had plain steel cylinders which were
in good shape. The machine shop that overhauled my cylinders said that the
high compression pistons (O-360) were supposed to be used with a choke bore
in the cylinders. For this reason I had them choked bored 0.010 over since
I needed the new pistons any way. As the cylinders are not chrome or
nitrite treated, they can be easily bored without re-treatment. You will
find that the plain steel cylinders require chrome rings which cost about
three times as much as the steel rings used on treated cylinders.
Good luck, what ever decision you make.
Ken
RV-6A N94KB
RV-4 firewall forward
http://www.mninter.net/~kbeene/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: stiffeners for the 7 rudder |
Jeff Cours wrote:
>
>Thanks for all the suggestions!
>
>The reason for the fluting is that the snips were mildly distorting the
>stiffeners. They come straight/flat from the factory, but the snips made
>them slightly concave. Since the stiffeners pretty much control the
>shape of the rudder's skin, I wanted to make sure they had the right
>shape. I was able to mostly straighten them with seamers but had to
>flute a bit to get them completely flat again.
>
>One one of them, I did try going straight from the snips to the
>scotchbrite wheel, but it was slow going: for the taper, there were
>places I had to leave quite a bit of aluminum. I think the file was
>faster...
>
>I guess there's a bandsaw, a belt sander, or both in my future. :-)
>
>thanks again!
>Jeff
>
I haven't seen anyone mention the relationship of rpm of the scotchbrite
wheel to how quickly you can dress edges with it. I found that the
highest speed on my el-cheapo benchtop drill press using the 6" wheel
makes dressing edges almost effortless (relatively speaking of course),
and faster than using a belt sander 1st because I could do it in one
operation.
I tried the band saw at first, then switched to snips for most of the
stiffeners. I used large sheet metal (non-aviation) snips that have ~4"
long smooth cutting edges & are probably 15-16" long overall. I was able
to cut all the way to the notch in the bend using these snips. Very
little distortion & much cleaner edge than the bandsawn ones, requiring
less dressing on the wheel.
Hope this is useful...
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re:Don't trust this RV-6 Owner |
For what it's worth, the FAA N number database has a different street
address, but still in Niagara Falls, NY.
N221RV:
Manufacturer Name
DINIERI STEVEN
Model
DINIERI RV-6A
Registered Owner
DINIERI STEVEN P
725 91ST ST
NIAGARA FALLS
NEW YORK
14304-3529
http://162.58.35.241/acdatabase/acmain.htm
Kevin Horton
>
>From Yahoo people search. I do not know him but there are several
>very nice RV plane and builders in the Buffalo NY area. They
>probably know who he is and what he is up to.
>
>Steven Dinieri
>1202 Main St
>Niagara Falls, NY
>
> (716) 285-8935
>
>
> rom: mark phipps
>
> Subject: Re: Dont trust this RV6 owner
>
>
>
> Hi Conrad, Good to hear from you. He owes $200. I also was
>hoping someone on the
> list knows this person. Sadly in these cases one of the two
>parties involved
> has to send either the money or goods on faith. I would not
>have expected this
> from a fellow RV'r.
> Mark Phipps
>
> Konrad Werner wrote:
>
> Dear Mark,
>
> Sorry to hear that some RV'er is trying to not pay you for
>parts sent on good faith.
> What is the amount he owes you? Does anybody in the list know this guy?
>
> Konrad
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: mark phipps
> Subject: RV-List: Dont trust this RV6 owner
>
>
>
>Dinieri of New York. He
> came on the list 3 months ago looking for a rudder for his
>six. I agreed to sell
> him an extra I had and made the mistake of sending it to him
>before I was
> paid. Guess what, 3 months later and no money, says he is too
>busy. My mistake
> evidently. If you deal with this person or know him, make sure
>you get paid first.
>
> Mark Phipps, N242RP, RV6A, Almost Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Brooks" <kenbrooks(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Matco MC-5 Brake Master Cylinder |
For those of you who have used the new style integrated reservoir master
cylinders from Matco, how did you attach to the Van's adjustable rudder
pedals? Any mods required? Any photos would be especially appreciated
off-list. I think they'll work great if I can just figure out the
logistics. Thanks in advance!
Ken Brooks
Roscoe, IL
Always Finishing (and retrofitting)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mark phipps <skydive80020(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re:Don't trust this RV-6 Owner |
I appreciate the help all the listers are showing here. This is what this list
and RVers are all about.
Mark Phipps
Kevin Horton wrote:
For what it's worth, the FAA N number database has a different street
address, but still in Niagara Falls, NY.
N221RV:
Manufacturer Name
DINIERI STEVEN
Model
DINIERI RV-6A
Registered Owner
DINIERI STEVEN P
725 91ST ST
NIAGARA FALLS
NEW YORK
14304-3529
http://162.58.35.241/acdatabase/acmain.htm
Kevin Horton
>
>From Yahoo people search. I do not know him but there are several
>very nice RV plane and builders in the Buffalo NY area. They
>probably know who he is and what he is up to.
>
>Steven Dinieri
>1202 Main St
>Niagara Falls, NY
>
> (716) 285-8935
>
>
> rom: mark phipps
>
> Subject: Re: Dont trust this RV6 owner
>
>
>
> Hi Conrad, Good to hear from you. He owes $200. I also was
>hoping someone on the
> list knows this person. Sadly in these cases one of the two
>parties involved
> has to send either the money or goods on faith. I would not
>have expected this
> from a fellow RV'r.
> Mark Phipps
>
> Konrad Werner wrote:
>
> Dear Mark,
>
> Sorry to hear that some RV'er is trying to not pay you for
>parts sent on good faith.
> What is the amount he owes you? Does anybody in the list know this guy?
>
> Konrad
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: mark phipps
> Subject: RV-List: Dont trust this RV6 owner
>
>
>
>Dinieri of New York. He
> came on the list 3 months ago looking for a rudder for his
>six. I agreed to sell
> him an extra I had and made the mistake of sending it to him
>before I was
> paid. Guess what, 3 months later and no money, says he is too
>busy. My mistake
> evidently. If you deal with this person or know him, make sure
>you get paid first.
>
> Mark Phipps, N242RP, RV6A, Almost Flying
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal / Carol Kempthorne <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Question for engine gurus |
At 01:30 PM 7/13/2004, you wrote:
>Question is: Is any level of spalling "acceptable" or is evidence of any
>reason for rework/replacement of Camshaft and/or tappet faces?
You are the inspector, you decide. If I were the inspector, a teardown
would be mandatory.
If labor is cheap, you might be well off to save the rest of the
engine. That is, replace cam and tappets only, clean everything well and
fly on for many more hours.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Bibb" <rebibb(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Question for engine gurus |
Thanks Ken.
I've pretty much decided to bite the bullet and send all the parts out for
rework so I can have a nice zero time engine. I was only thinking of
Constant speed if I changed engines and then I'd go with an O-360....
For now I will go with the reworked engine and high compression pistons (If
I can choke bore the cylinders) and a Sensinich prop.
I've flown this pane before but am rebuilding it as I landed it in trees
about 5 years ago. I need to fit the cowl (might do before I send engine
parts out), mount the wings and get ready to paint.
I've been working on this off and on for five years and I'm geting into it
again and want to fly. Might ahve had something to do with a ride I had in
a buddies RV-6 the other day. Man these planes are nice.
Thanks.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Beene" <kbeene(at)citilink.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Question for engine gurus
>
> Richard,
>
> My engine is an O-320 E3D that was removed from service at 2250 hours
total
> time because of bad lifters and cam. The cam has only six lobes since two
> of the lobes operate valves on both sides of the engine. These are the
ones
> that normally fail first. Most of the lifters showed some damage but the
> ones on the second lobe from the front were the worst. I will send some
> pictures of different ones removed from my engine. This might give you
some
> idea of how bad they can get and the engine still run.
>
> It might be difficult to see the damage to the cam without close
inspection.
> The number two lobe didn't look so bad but it measures a full 0.1 inches
> less in diameter than some of the other ones. This will cause a loss of
> power on those cylinders.
>
> I understand the desire to fly the engine and overhaul later. There is
the
> concern of testing a new overhaul and airplane at the same time as well as
> the need to run high power during engine break-in. I think the any
spalling
> is not acceptable but I don't know how rapidly the existing spalling will
> increase. If you decide to run the engine without overhaul, I would
change
> oil more frequently as the engine will "make metal" and there is the
concern
> of damaging other good components in the engine -- such as the crank;
> however my crank measured to new tolerances and only required polishing.
>
> You mentioned that you were considering a constant speed prop. Although
the
> E2D does not have a solid crank, the case, front bearing and rear
accessory
> case are not designed for constant speed use.
>
> I updated my engine to 160 hp. My E3D had plain steel cylinders which
were
> in good shape. The machine shop that overhauled my cylinders said that
the
> high compression pistons (O-360) were supposed to be used with a choke
bore
> in the cylinders. For this reason I had them choked bored 0.010 over
since
> I needed the new pistons any way. As the cylinders are not chrome or
> nitrite treated, they can be easily bored without re-treatment. You will
> find that the plain steel cylinders require chrome rings which cost about
> three times as much as the steel rings used on treated cylinders.
>
> Good luck, what ever decision you make.
>
> Ken
> RV-6A N94KB
> RV-4 firewall forward
> http://www.mninter.net/~kbeene/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The Air Beetle |
Scott Vanartsdalen wrote:
>
>The Nigerian Air Force uses them. They also have RV grins!
>
>
>Anyone care to hazard a guess as to what an Air Beetle is before clicking on the
enclosed link?
>
>http://www.dananig.com/air_betle.htm
>
>
>Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
>
>
>--
>Scott VanArtsdalen
>RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
>
>
>
What is interesting is that they use 91 octane automotive fuel in ther
O-360 A1A.
Becaue I was an early builder of an RV-6 I got a call from Dana inviting
me to go over
and help build them, but at the time I was not interested.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re:Don't trust this RV-6 Owner |
And he also owns a Piper Cherokee.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Horton" <khorton01(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:Don't trust this RV-6 Owner
>
> For what it's worth, the FAA N number database has a different street
> address, but still in Niagara Falls, NY.
>
> N221RV:
>
> Manufacturer Name
> DINIERI STEVEN
>
> Model
> DINIERI RV-6A
>
> Registered Owner
> DINIERI STEVEN P
> 725 91ST ST
> NIAGARA FALLS
> NEW YORK
> 14304-3529
>
>
> http://162.58.35.241/acdatabase/acmain.htm
>
> Kevin Horton
>
>
> >
> >From Yahoo people search. I do not know him but there are several
> >very nice RV plane and builders in the Buffalo NY area. They
> >probably know who he is and what he is up to.
> >
> >Steven Dinieri
> >1202 Main St
> >Niagara Falls, NY
> >
> > (716) 285-8935
> >
> >
> > rom: mark phipps
> >
> > Subject: Re: Dont trust this RV6 owner
> >
> >
> >
> > Hi Conrad, Good to hear from you. He owes $200. I also was
> >hoping someone on the
> > list knows this person. Sadly in these cases one of the two
> >parties involved
> > has to send either the money or goods on faith. I would not
> >have expected this
> > from a fellow RV'r.
> > Mark Phipps
> >
> > Konrad Werner wrote:
> >
> > Dear Mark,
> >
> > Sorry to hear that some RV'er is trying to not pay you for
> >parts sent on good faith.
> > What is the amount he owes you? Does anybody in the list know this
guy?
> >
> > Konrad
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: mark phipps
> > Subject: RV-List: Dont trust this RV6 owner
> >
> >
> >
> >Dinieri of New York. He
> > came on the list 3 months ago looking for a rudder for his
> >six. I agreed to sell
> > him an extra I had and made the mistake of sending it to him
> >before I was
> > paid. Guess what, 3 months later and no money, says he is too
> >busy. My mistake
> > evidently. If you deal with this person or know him, make sure
> >you get paid first.
> >
> > Mark Phipps, N242RP, RV6A, Almost Flying
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | re: don't trust this RV 6 guy |
All,
The trust among list members is one of the things that makes us a community. I've
sold stuff on the list for less than I could have goten on the "open market"
because it was no hassle. No ebay, no paypal, just ship the item and feel good
knowing that my item is crossing a check on its way to me somewhere in the
good old USPS.
So, we have a rat among us who has screwed Mark Phipps. Well, we should let him
know that we all know. We shold also let him know that he is not welcome at any
RV type events. I for one will take great pleasure in telling him this to his
face if I ever recognize his N number at an event.
The Oswego EAA Chapter has a big RV fly in. Is he a member of that chapter??
I think a good start is for all of us to send a nice personal (non-hostile, non-threatening)
email to mister "sticky fingers" Dinieri.
His email address is:
capsteve(at)adelphia.net
If that doesn't help get mister Phipps his rudder back, (the following is said
tongue in cheek) we should go get it back. If mr Phipps has not been paid, he
still owns the rudder. I think Oshkosh would be a nice place to very carefullyremove
the rudder if Mr. Dinieri makes the trip. We need to be careful not to
damage the aircraft, since our intent is to only get Mr Phipps back his rightfully
owned property.
God this crap burns me. When I was unemployed durring the tech colapse a few years
ago,and got a bit short of cash I had to string some people along. This included
the place where I kept my airplane. BUT, I made it a point to regularly
contact those I owed money to and let them know that I still planned to pay them
back, but that they came after my mortgage. They all understood. I'm guessing
Mr Phipps can afford the $200 or 300 he lost. Its the getting screwed that
hurts.
Now go send Sticky Fingers an email!
Best regards,
Don Mei
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: re: don't trust this RV 6 guy |
Donald Mei wrote:
>
>All,
>The trust among list members is one of the things that makes us a community. I've
sold stuff on the list for less than I could have goten on the "open market"
because it was no hassle. No ebay, no paypal, just ship the item and feel good
knowing that my item is crossing a check on its way to me somewhere in the
good old USPS.
>
>So, we have a rat among us who has screwed Mark Phipps. Well, we should let him
know that we all know. We shold also let him know that he is not welcome at
any RV type events. I for one will take great pleasure in telling him this to
his face if I ever recognize his N number at an event.
>
>The Oswego EAA Chapter has a big RV fly in. Is he a member of that chapter??
>
>I think a good start is for all of us to send a nice personal (non-hostile, non-threatening)
email to mister "sticky fingers" Dinieri.
>
>His email address is:
>
>capsteve(at)adelphia.net
>
>If that doesn't help get mister Phipps his rudder back, (the following is said
tongue in cheek) we should go get it back. If mr Phipps has not been paid, he
still owns the rudder. I think Oshkosh would be a nice place to very carefullyremove
the rudder if Mr. Dinieri makes the trip. We need to be careful not to
damage the aircraft, since our intent is to only get Mr Phipps back his rightfully
owned property.
>
>
While I sympathize with anyone "getting screwed" I don't think the above
is funny even tongue in cheek Don. While most of you know that I
replaced the rudder on my RV-6 with an RV-7 rudder and stabilizer some
of you may not know why. Last year at Van's homecoming
flyin someone severely damaged the rudder on my RV-6. I of course being
the great safe flight instructor jumped in my airplane and took off.
(very important lesson #1 ALWAYS DO A WALK AROUND AND PRE-FLIGHT)climb
was fine but when I leveled out I knew I had a problem
the airplane went into a left roll and it took a lot of rudder and
aileron to fly straight. When I landed I found the trailing edge of the
rudder was
pushed over about two inches and the skin was torn where it had been
hit. Of course no one said a word to me, no notes, nothing. This is one
of those
situation that if I had crashed no one would have known why or
understood. I can see it now, he probably had a medical problem, this
seems to be
a catch all for any unexplained crashes. I post this for a couple
reasons. #1 don't be stupid like I was and jump in your airplane with
out at least a quick
walk around. #2 Please if you damage someones airplane at least leave a
note or try to notify someone. While I don't like my airplane damaged I
understand
accidents can happen where damage can occur. I certainly would have a
lot more respect for someone that came to me and admitted they did some
damage.
Jerry (Flying my RV-6 15 years tomorrow, first flight July 14, 1989)
Springer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stan J. Jones" <stan.jones(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re:Don't trust this RV-6 Owner |
My father always drummed into me. "Always pay your bills by the 20th of the
month. Your credit rating is your biggest assett in life". This chap has
certainly blown his
Stan
-------Original Message-------
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Date: 07/14/04 14:33:11
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:Don't trust this RV-6 Owner
And he also owns a Piper Cherokee.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Horton" <khorton01(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:Don't trust this RV-6 Owner
>
> For what it's worth, the FAA N number database has a different street
> address, but still in Niagara Falls, NY.
>
> N221RV:
>
> Manufacturer Name
> DINIERI STEVEN
>
> Model
> DINIERI RV-6A
>
> Registered Owner
> DINIERI STEVEN P
> 725 91ST ST
> NIAGARA FALLS
> NEW YORK
> 14304-3529
>
>
> http://162.58.35.241/acdatabase/acmain.htm
>
> Kevin Horton
>
>
> >
> >From Yahoo people search. I do not know him but there are several
> >very nice RV plane and builders in the Buffalo NY area. They
> >probably know who he is and what he is up to.
> >
> >Steven Dinieri
> >1202 Main St
> >Niagara Falls, NY
> >
> > (716) 285-8935
> >
> >
> > rom: mark phipps
> >
> > Subject: Re: Dont trust this RV6 owner
> >
> >
> >
> > Hi Conrad, Good to hear from you. He owes $200. I also was
> >hoping someone on the
> > list knows this person. Sadly in these cases one of the two
> >parties involved
> > has to send either the money or goods on faith. I would not
> >have expected this
> > from a fellow RV'r.
> > Mark Phipps
> >
> > Konrad Werner wrote:
> >
> > Dear Mark,
> >
> > Sorry to hear that some RV'er is trying to not pay you for
> >parts sent on good faith.
> > What is the amount he owes you? Does anybody in the list know this
guy?
> >
> > Konrad
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: mark phipps
> > Subject: RV-List: Dont trust this RV6 owner
> >
> >
> >
> >Dinieri of New York. He
> > came on the list 3 months ago looking for a rudder for his
> >six. I agreed to sell
> > him an extra I had and made the mistake of sending it to him
> >before I was
> > paid. Guess what, 3 months later and no money, says he is too
> >busy. My mistake
> > evidently. If you deal with this person or know him, make sure
> >you get paid first.
> >
> > Mark Phipps, N242RP, RV6A, Almost Flying
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph Koger" <rhkoger(at)fbx.com> |
| Subject: | Re:Don't trust this RV-6 Owner |
This information fits into my situation also. For the last 8 years I have
been manufacturing and selling the Koger SunShade and have always shipped
the same or next day and have been telling them, just put a check in the
mail. The RV people have been outstanding and I have not lost a cent with
anyone. I sell a good number of shades to people that have other types of
planes and many of these people do not play by the same rules that the RV
people do. I have been beat out of a couple of shades to an out of the
country aircraft manufacture. I have had to send bills and ask others in
their type of aircraft groups for help to get paid for my shades. I now have
on the books Peter Hebert DMD from Stowe, VT that I special made a shade for
his Lancair Legacy N23PH. Thanks to the list for the gov information, it
shows that he just got his N number 6/03/04. He must be very busy for he has
not returned a couple of account due and e-mail notices for payment. When a
person states that they will put the check in the mail and don't it does
make us wonder if our method of doing business is correct. For over 20 years
I have been RV ing and it goes back to Van for his honest dealings and his
outstanding plane designs.
Ralph Koger
ALSO: I have developed a 46" long sunshade for the RV-8 or any tandem type
canopy, and will be showing it at Oshkosh. See it at Cleaveland Tool.
----- Original Message -----
From: "mark phipps" <skydive80020(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:Don't trust this RV-6 Owner
>
> Thanks for the info Alan.
>
> Mark Phipps
>
> Alan McKeen wrote:
>
> From Yahoo people search. I do not know him but there are several very
nice RV plane and builders in the Buffalo NY area. They probably know who he
is and what he is up to.
>
> Steven Dinieri
> 1202 Main St
> Niagara Falls, NY
>
> (716) 285-8935
>
>
> rom: mark phipps
>
> Subject: Re: Dont trust this RV6 owner
>
>
> Hi Conrad, Good to hear from you. He owes $200. I also was hoping someone
on the
> list knows this person. Sadly in these cases one of the two parties
involved
July 06, 2004 - July 14, 2004
RV-Archive.digest.vol-pm