RV-Archive.digest.vol-po
July 21, 2004 - August 03, 2004
I pressure tested my tanks after I built them last summer - all was fine.
Today I am going to remove the left tank cover plate because of a pesky
'seepage' type of leak around the sender gasket. I tried sealing it with
proseal from the outside twice - no luck. Save yourself a potential hassle
and proseal around the inside of that gasket and screw heads.
Ron
----- Original Message -----
| From: | "mark phipps" <skydive80020(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Sender Gasket |
>
> After installing the Fuel sender today with rubber gasket I am wondering
if I should have used any additional sealing compound to prevent leaks. What
have others done with this and has leaking been a problem just using the
gasket?
>
> Mark Phipps, N242RP, Almost Flying
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "sdellangelo(at)netzero.com" <sdellangelo(at)netzero.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flaring Tool |
I do have the nice one (Parker?) but when I saw this one I figured I would give
a heads up that it exists.
Scott DellAngelo
#90598 Waiting on Fuselage
Plainfield, IL
>From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: flaring tool
>Ditto that! Spend the money or borrow a good flaring tool and throw >away the
>clumsy clamp types that don't do as good of a job anyway....The >parker tool
>is top notch and "almost" idiot proof.
Only $14.95/ month -visit www.netzero.com to sign up today!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Sender Gasket |
Mark
If you didn't do so already, you need to add sealant to the screw threads
and under the screw heads for both the sender and the cover plate.
Dean Van Winkle
RV-9A Fuselage/Finish
----- Original Message -----
From: "mark phipps" <skydive80020(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Sender Gasket
>
> After installing the Fuel sender today with rubber gasket I am wondering
if I should have used any additional sealing compound to prevent leaks. What
have others done with this and has leaking been a problem just using the
gasket?
>
> Mark Phipps, N242RP, Almost Flying
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | IO-360 FAB airbox blows up |
Please help!
The FAB air box blew up yesterday when I got a backfire trying to restart my
hot IO-360 (200 hp) engine. The engine floods every time it is shut down. To
clear the flooded condition, I opened the throttle and went to lean cutoff
and cranked. Sometime during this starting sequence I heard a backfire, and
then the engine started. Later I noticed the air filter (K&N) was wrinkled, and
removed the cowling to find that the FAB air box had opened up at the seams.
I have the Lycoming "sniffle valve" installed, and it dribbles fuel. The
sniffle valve is installed on a bracket about 6 inches aft of the hole in the
bottom of the plenum, and plumbed with 1/4 inch AN hardware in order to clear the
exhaust system.
The fuel system is the kit that Vans sells for the IO-360. The engine idles
and runs fine in every other regard.
It seems that opening the throttle may be the wrong thing to do, or is it? I
am new to this engine, and would appreciate any advice on how to start it to
prevent this from happening.
Does a purge valve prevent this flooding? If so, where is it placed in the
fuel system? Where do I get one?
Dan Hopper
N766DH
RV-7A (Flying 15 hours now)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Garrett, Randy L (C4S)" <Randy.L.Garrett(at)gdc4s.com> |
| Subject: | Alaska trip report |
Many thanks for the excellent advice I received from this list. The trip was successful and a whole lot of fun. The trip report is online at: http://www.flyguides.com/roadtrip/
Randy Garrett
RV-6A
380 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Gray <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: New engine and prop... long... |
Kevin,
I agree, why not eliminate the error if we can. A GPS and the simple
calculation provides a remarkably precise tool to make real performance
assessment.
To make use of Heading rather than the GPS track data the solution is to
create a new cell that is the sum of the squares of the differences
between the spreadsheet's Heading output cells and the actual headings
recorded.
Then, use the 'solver' tool to minimise this cell (ie zero since it is
the sum of squares) while varying the three track input fields.
It is a bit messy, but has rescued more than one flight data set.
Note.. I believe some GPS manufacturers label the 'Track' data field as
'Heading'. This does not help.
Thanks for hosting the paper and s'sheet on your site and for the plugs
along the way.
The NTPS variant is very interesting and if I recall correctly students
are frequently able to achieve very good results with it. Their paper
describing their method is (or at least was) available on their website.
Very readable.
Greg Lewis of the NTPS has also submitted changes to Appendix 9 of the
FAA's AC 23-8 (Pitot Static methods - not sure of the title)
incorporating the calculation.
Regards,
Doug
Kevin Horton wrote:
>
> It looks like Bill simply took the average of the three ground
> speeds. Many people do that, but it doesn't give the right answer,
> unless there is no wind. The error is probably only a few mph, but
> if you are evaluating the effect of a minor performance improvement,
> then you need a method that has an error that is less than the amount
> of the speed increase from the perf improvement.
>
> Doug - I'm a big fan of your spreadsheet (which is available for
> download from my web site). I'm curious - please educate us on how
> to use it if the user has headings, and not tracks.
>
> Doug's method of calculating TAS from GPS data has the stamp of
> approval from the National Test Pilot School (although they made a
> useful mod to do four data runs, to get redundant data so errors
> would be noticed). I pointed them at it when I was on a refresher
> course there a couple of years ago, and they incorporated it into
> their set of standard performance methods.
>
> Doug's spreadsheet:
>
> http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rvlinks/doug_gray/TASCALC.ZIP
>
> The NTPS version:
>
> http://www.ntps.edu/Files/GPS%20PEC.XLS
>
> My Flight Test Links section:
>
> http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/phplinks/index.php?PID=1
>
> Kevin Horton
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IO-360 FAB airbox blows up |
Dan,
Sure sounds like your cutoff mixture isn't really cutting off...if it's
really sniffling fuel after every shutdown. I'm no expert at Bendix servos
by any stretch, but that's where I'd check/adjust first.
The purge valve definitely ensures that you're cutting fuel off prior to the
flow divider. It installs right next to the flow divider, and the fuel hose
that normally goes to the f.d. goes to the purve valve instead.
The purge valve requires a return line, which you can easily tee into a fuel
supply line upstream of the selector valve (I teed mine into the right side
supply line...I select the left tank when purging).
I use the purge valve to shut down, as my Airflow Performance injection is
designed such that when the mixture is pulled back to cutoff, there is still
a small amount of allowable fuel flow happening. The purge valve diverts
that fuel prior to reaching the flow divider, and you eliminate any fuel
from getting to the distribution lines or cylinders. It really helps hot
starts...even without using the purge as a true purge...which I rarely do.
Before complicating your system, I'd check into adjusting your Bendix
(presumably) servo so that it shuts down properly and doesn't sniffle. If
you can fix that, that's 99% of the battle.
Best of luck,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <Hopperdhh(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: IO-360 FAB airbox blows up
>
> Please help!
>
> The FAB air box blew up yesterday when I got a backfire trying to restart
my
> hot IO-360 (200 hp) engine. The engine floods every time it is shut down.
To
> clear the flooded condition, I opened the throttle and went to lean cutoff
> and cranked. Sometime during this starting sequence I heard a backfire,
and
> then the engine started. Later I noticed the air filter (K&N) was
wrinkled, and
> removed the cowling to find that the FAB air box had opened up at the
seams.
>
> I have the Lycoming "sniffle valve" installed, and it dribbles fuel. The
> sniffle valve is installed on a bracket about 6 inches aft of the hole in
the
> bottom of the plenum, and plumbed with 1/4 inch AN hardware in order to
clear the
> exhaust system.
>
> The fuel system is the kit that Vans sells for the IO-360. The engine
idles
> and runs fine in every other regard.
>
> It seems that opening the throttle may be the wrong thing to do, or is it?
I
> am new to this engine, and would appreciate any advice on how to start it
to
> prevent this from happening.
>
> Does a purge valve prevent this flooding? If so, where is it placed in
the
> fuel system? Where do I get one?
>
> Dan Hopper
> N766DH
> RV-7A (Flying 15 hours now)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: IO-360 FAB airbox blows up |
In a message dated 7/21/04 10:05:20 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
dan(at)rvproject.com writes:
>
>
> Dan,
>
> Sure sounds like your cutoff mixture isn't really cutting off...if it's
> really sniffling fuel after every shutdown. I'm no expert at Bendix servos
> by any stretch, but that's where I'd check/adjust first.
>
I'll definitely check that out. When I had the airplane inspected he found
that the linkage was hitting the FAB before the lean stop, and I fixed it then.
I'll look again. The servo was overhauled when I bought the overhauled
engine, but that was 2 years ago. Unfortunately, I didn't preserve the servo like
I should have. It does have orange silicone diaphragms, etc.
Thanks for the detailed reply. I will keep a close watch on it for sniffles.
I'm not sure if it does it all the time or not.
Dan Hopper
N766DH
RV-7A (Flying 15 hours now)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal / Carol Kempthorne <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: carrying pressurized cylinders |
At 09:22 PM 7/20/2004, you wrote:
>
>Isn't an oxygen system powered by a pressurized cylinder (if "powered" is
>the right term)?
My oxygen bottle has a gauge that reads to 3000 lbs. This is 'gauge
pressure'. Absolute pressure would be that minus the 15 or so lbs ambient
pressure here at El Paso de Robles (~800 feet MSL). So the absolute
pressure max is 2985 lbs. here. Climb to altitude or drive up to Tioga
Pass in the Sierra Nevada Range (9900+ ft) and the absolute pressure will
be higher by what? less than 15 lbs.
Right?
The oxygen bottle is very sturdy. Can we say the same for cans of freon or
propane bottles? Surely either can be hauled anywhere in the country in a car?
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Schlotthauer" <rv7maker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Prop Governor Settings |
Gents,
I bought the MT hydraulic governor from Vans and specified my engine to have
a rear mounted gov. pad. However, in all actuality, I have a front mounted
pad.
1.) Will the difference in oil pressure front to back make a difference
in the way my governor operates with the factory setup?
2.) If it is erring to the side of high speed, how much is too much? I
imagine that 2705 would be fine but how about 2750.
Thanks in advance,
Ross Schlotthauer
RV-7 Finishing
>From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: IO-360 FAB airbox blows up
>Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2004 08:02:47 -0700
>
>
>Dan,
>
>Sure sounds like your cutoff mixture isn't really cutting off...if it's
>really sniffling fuel after every shutdown. I'm no expert at Bendix servos
>by any stretch, but that's where I'd check/adjust first.
>
>The purge valve definitely ensures that you're cutting fuel off prior to
>the
>flow divider. It installs right next to the flow divider, and the fuel
>hose
>that normally goes to the f.d. goes to the purve valve instead.
>
>The purge valve requires a return line, which you can easily tee into a
>fuel
>supply line upstream of the selector valve (I teed mine into the right side
>supply line...I select the left tank when purging).
>
>I use the purge valve to shut down, as my Airflow Performance injection is
>designed such that when the mixture is pulled back to cutoff, there is
>still
>a small amount of allowable fuel flow happening. The purge valve diverts
>that fuel prior to reaching the flow divider, and you eliminate any fuel
>from getting to the distribution lines or cylinders. It really helps hot
>starts...even without using the purge as a true purge...which I rarely do.
>
>Before complicating your system, I'd check into adjusting your Bendix
>(presumably) servo so that it shuts down properly and doesn't sniffle. If
>you can fix that, that's 99% of the battle.
>
>Best of luck,
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <Hopperdhh(at)aol.com>
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: IO-360 FAB airbox blows up
>
>
> >
> > Please help!
> >
> > The FAB air box blew up yesterday when I got a backfire trying to
>restart
>my
> > hot IO-360 (200 hp) engine. The engine floods every time it is shut
>down.
>To
> > clear the flooded condition, I opened the throttle and went to lean
>cutoff
> > and cranked. Sometime during this starting sequence I heard a backfire,
>and
> > then the engine started. Later I noticed the air filter (K&N) was
>wrinkled, and
> > removed the cowling to find that the FAB air box had opened up at the
>seams.
> >
> > I have the Lycoming "sniffle valve" installed, and it dribbles fuel.
>The
> > sniffle valve is installed on a bracket about 6 inches aft of the hole
>in
>the
> > bottom of the plenum, and plumbed with 1/4 inch AN hardware in order to
>clear the
> > exhaust system.
> >
> > The fuel system is the kit that Vans sells for the IO-360. The engine
>idles
> > and runs fine in every other regard.
> >
> > It seems that opening the throttle may be the wrong thing to do, or is
>it?
>I
> > am new to this engine, and would appreciate any advice on how to start
>it
>to
> > prevent this from happening.
> >
> > Does a purge valve prevent this flooding? If so, where is it placed in
>the
> > fuel system? Where do I get one?
> >
> > Dan Hopper
> > N766DH
> > RV-7A (Flying 15 hours now)
> >
> >
>
>
Discover the best of the best at MSN Luxury Living. http://lexus.msn.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: carrying pressurized cylinders |
Actually, it's the other way around: Absolute
pressure is gauge pressure + ambient pressure. At see
level, if your gauge reads 3000, the absolute pressure
would be 3014.7. Gauge pressure is really
differential pressure between the gauge pressure port
and the outside pressure acting on the gauge body.
Also, atmospheric pressure drops apporox. 1 psi for
every 2343 feet of altitude, so at 10,000 feet,
atmospheric pressure would be about 4 psi less than
see level. Hardly enough difference to worry about.
Also, Freon in the bottle will be about 100 psia (85
psig) at 80 degrees, and 132 psia or 117 psig at 100
degrees.
--- Hal / Carol Kempthorne
wrote:
> Kempthorne
> My oxygen bottle has a gauge that reads to 3000 lbs.
> This is 'gauge
> pressure'. Absolute pressure would be that minus
> the 15 or so lbs ambient
> pressure here at El Paso de Robles (~800 feet MSL).
> So the absolute
> pressure max is 2985 lbs. here. Climb to altitude
> or drive up to Tioga
> Pass in the Sierra Nevada Range (9900+ ft) and the
> absolute pressure will
> be higher by what? less than 15 lbs.
>
> Right?
>
> The oxygen bottle is very sturdy. Can we say the
> same for cans of freon or
> propane bottles? Surely either can be hauled
> anywhere in the country in a car?
>
> hal
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Flightline Interiors |
I recently purchased a set of seats from Abby a.k.a. Flightline Interiors
and I'd be happy to show them to anyone there, but there is only about a 30%
chance I'll make it to Osh at this time.
However I'd like to weigh in on my experience. First, the end product is
FAR FAR nicer than I could ever have imagined. The workmanship is
absolutely top notch. I had my seats made up like her Style C seats, with
leather in the tucked pattern. It is GORGEOUS.
In addition, the whole experience was very pleasant and professional.
Abby's communication was great.
Because Abby had never done an RV-4 before, there was more than a normal
amount of discussion required. I sent her my old seats, she sent me
templates, I sent her back another template.
The process was actually fun. In the end I now have very beautiful and very
comfortable seats in my RV-4.
I know there aren't a lot of '4 completions happening these days, but if you
have a '4 and the old seats are getting a bit worn, you may want to contact
Abby. She now has templates to make up seats for you.
Also, her prices were very reasonable considering the quality of the
workmanship. Although Abbys track record doesn't go back as far, I wouldn't
hesitate to put her up there with Stein and Avery as a vendor who produces
great stuff for the RV community.
Best regards,
Don Mei
Discover the best of the best at MSN Luxury Living. http://lexus.msn.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: UV Smooth Prime (fiberglass - Ugh!) |
In a message dated 7/20/04 11:17:16 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
sarg314(at)earthlink.net writes:
> I am finishing up my wheel fairings. Having used polyfiber's UV smooth
> Prime on my tail fairing (great stuff) I went to mix up a batch for the
> wheel fairings. Well after sitting on the shelf in my hot arizona garage
> for about a year and a half, the little bottle of hardener has turned
> into a rubbery solid. Still looks the same, but shakes like Jello.
>
> Does any one know if this stuff can be revitalized by adding in some
> (presumably long-ago-evaporated) solvent? Or is it toast? For that
> matter, is the smooth prime itself still usable or do I have to buy new?
>
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A, Landing gear
>
>
Tom,
I had the same problem. I called Polyfiber and they sent me a new bottle of
activator, no charge. Man, I hate sanding that stuff but it does work well.
Lower cowl to go and that's it!!!
Rick McBride
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal / Carol Kempthorne <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: carrying pressurized cylinders |
At 11:48 AM 7/21/2004, you wrote:
>
>But then out of curiousity I got to thinking. If the bottle is already
>pressurized, why does it care inside the canister what the altitude?
>Temperature aside, my tires don't seem to swell up or deflate with altitude.
Good example, tires! Yes, they do swell up as you climb because there is
less pressure on the outside of the tire or bottle.
Try climbing to altitude with a bag of potato chips and watch the bag
swell. (Don't eat a few first!)
I just learned that absolute pressure is gauge plus ambient pressure - so
as you climb the gauge will read a hair higher.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Beene" <kbeene(at)citilink.com> |
| Subject: | Prop Governor Settings |
>
> I bought the MT hydraulic governor from Vans and specified my engine to
> have
> a rear mounted gov. pad. However, in all actuality, I have a front
> mounted
> pad.
>
> 1.) Will the difference in oil pressure front to back make a difference
> in the way my governor operates with the factory setup?
> 2.) If it is erring to the side of high speed, how much is too much? I
> imagine that 2705 would be fine but how about 2750.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Ross Schlotthauer
> RV-7 Finishing
>
Ross,
I too have a front mounted governor and recently purchased the MT unit from
Van's. The governor is designed to maintain the engine RPM set by the
governor control and will adjust the pressure (within limits) to change the
prop pitch as necessary to maintain the set RPM.
If you just recently received the governor, it may be different from the one
on Van's installation drawing or even in the MT installation manual. My new
governor had a combined control and stop arm which was setup for the
accessory case mount. Van's drawing shows a unit with separate control and
stop arms which allow repositioning of the arm - a different arm position
is required for the forward mount position.
I contacted MT and was told how to reposition the combined arm. They said
the manual is currently being updated. It is necessary to cut the safety
wire on the six screws and loosen them. The inside barrel can then be
rotated as necessary to reposition the arm and the control stops together
for the forward mount.
If you have questions, I can send you a picture.
Ken
RV-6A N94KB
RV-4 FWF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Stewart Warner 200hp oil cooler result |
To the List,
I just installed the new oil cooler in my RV-7A. I am happy to report that
the money was not wasted. The SW 11 row cooler outperforms the Niagara 13 row
cooler by about 20 degrees F. On a long climb at 25/25 oil temp only went to
210 F. where before it would reach 230 (or more if I would let it) with OAT
about the same -- about 85 degrees. The engine was just overhauled so the temp
should come down some more.
In all fairness, some of the reduction may be due to installing the wheel and
gear leg fairings.
At any rate, the hot oil problem is solved. I can now use those 200 ponies!
What a blast on takeoff! This airplane is so easy to fly, and easy to land,
too. If you're building one, keep at it, its worth every hour you are
spending on it.
Thanks to Dan Checkoway for the tip on the SW coolers.
Hope to have the time flown off in time for OSH.
Dan Hopper
N766DH
RV-7A (17.5 hours now)
In a message dated 7/14/04 6:15:11 PM US Eastern Standard Time, Hopperdhh
writes:
>
> Lucky,
>
> How timely for me!
>
> I have been flying my RV-7A with the 200 HP IO-360-C1E6 (like A1B6 now) for
> only a week in the hot summer in Indiana. The oil reaches 230 deg. F. in any
> kind of climb or even level flight at 24 inches/ 2400 RPM with OAT at 85
> deg. We are 850 ft. MSL here. I feel like I'm having to baby the engine to
> keep the oil temp down. The cyl. heads are OK -- never over 400 deg.
>
> The engine is not broken in yet. I have a firewall mounted 13 row cooler
> from Niagara Air Parts -- their part no. 20006A -- as in Greg Hales RV-8.
> (Search for Greg Hale using your browser for a picture.) My cooler sits at about
> a 45 degree angle to the firewall making the airflow into it not quite
> direct into the fins. I am feeding an aluminum shroud that I fabricated (which
is
> less than perfect) with 4" scat, but several people have looked at it and
> most say that it should work.
>
> I just ordered the 11 row 10611R Stewart Warner cooler from Pacific Oil
> Coolers, Inc. which is the same size as the 20006A. It will be a week before
it
> gets here from LA, but I'll post the results then.
>
> I really like having the oil cooler on the firewall as opposed to the baffle
> from a vibration standpoint -- even if I have to go to 5 inch scat!
>
> I have considered lowering the exit scoop an inch because of the poor
> airflow of the cluttered exit area with the 7A's nosegear tubing, and all kinds
of
> other things, blocking the exit area, but decided to try the SW cooler first.
>
> I would be very glad to hear from others having this problem and what they
> did about it. There's no use having 200 HP if you can't use it.
>
> Dan Hopper
> RV-7A (Flying -- 8 hrs.)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: New engine and prop... long... |
Doug and Kevin,
It seems to me that since GPS does not give "heading" information, that
data would have had to come from the DG or compass, both of which are a
little suspect accuracy wise. So I would think it more prudent to make
another test flight and get the "track" data from the GPS. Or maybe I'm
missing something? : > )
Thanks for a another great tool and all the really usable info you guys
give us on a regular basis!
Dave Bristol
Doug Gray wrote:
>
>Kevin,
>
>I agree, why not eliminate the error if we can. A GPS and the simple
>calculation provides a remarkably precise tool to make real performance
>assessment.
>
>To make use of Heading rather than the GPS track data the solution is to
>create a new cell that is the sum of the squares of the differences
>between the spreadsheet's Heading output cells and the actual headings
>recorded.
>
>Then, use the 'solver' tool to minimise this cell (ie zero since it is
>the sum of squares) while varying the three track input fields.
>
>It is a bit messy, but has rescued more than one flight data set.
>
>Note.. I believe some GPS manufacturers label the 'Track' data field as
>'Heading'. This does not help.
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Brown <dan(at)familybrown.org> |
| Subject: | Re: carrying pressurized cylinders |
-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
Hash: SHA1
Tim Bryan wrote:
| translate through the steel and rigid cylinder walls? I suppose even
metal
| objects like a closed, sealed and solid metal container can still grow
with
| pressure but then wouldn't that be a really bad thing?
Not really. Steel is elastic, just like rubber (though of course much
stronger), and the container will expand with increasing
pressure--though the expansion will be immeasurable under normal conditions.
- --
Dan Brown, KE6MKS, dan(at)familybrown.org
"Since all the world is but a story, it were well for thee to buy the
more enduring story rather than the story that is less enduring."
~ -- The Judgment of St. Colum Cille
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iD8DBQFA/wOeyQGUivXxtkERAo70AJ9k/E2tCDC+H5XkZbaw2WPIBhfqrACgld88
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-----END PGP SIGNATURE-----
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
"RV-8(at)yahoogroups.com"
| Subject: | Camping in Vintage Camping in Oshkosh |
This is a heads up for all who would like to continue camping in the
ORIGINAL showplane camping area by vintage planes.
Antique/classic/vintage has informed us that as a general rule only
vintage airplanes can camp in that area. homebuilds will have to go to
the *NEW* homebuild area, west of the RV parking area.
only *pre-approved* non-vintage airplanes will be allowed. At least that
is what we, the 'north-point crew' have een told.
Ya'all read my buddy Jeff's article in the RVator on signs, signals,
etc. If not, please do. If you do NOT have a readable sign, and sticky
notes in pencil behind the colored canopy do not count as a sign, count
on being stopped at about *every* intersection.
For those who are 'old timers' and have parked in the rv area before,
know that the taxiway leading up to the RV area and now the new
homebuilt/showplane camping is only a ONE_WAY taxiway.
This means that if traffic is en-route on the taxi way we have to not
only hold you but also *STAGE* you at the entry to the warbird area.
This to prevent a mexican stand-off at the intersection with Papa 1.
Read about the EAA PECKING ORDER in the RVator.
Please, please, when we direct you in the throat of the warbird area by
the trimoter, turn into the throat and make a 180 degree turn so you
face south again. Unless you fly in nigerian warbird RV6 colors you
won't be welcome in warbirds. Hopefully we will be able to accomoate
you as soon as possible.
Gert
p.s.
Did I mention yet to bring yer 8x11 sign..facing the orange vests...the
one in the NOTAMs....For several years now, the FAA folks have joked
with us about starting NOTAM checks, let's hope it stays a joke. Last
year one of them stood at north point doing an informal count of lack of
signs.....he left shaking his head in despair....I have seen the feds
follow at least 2 airplanes to their parking spots for gross neglect of
following hand signals, almost running over an orange vest in each
instance did not help their course..., neither airplane was an RV of
course, but....have a copy in the airplane.....ya never know...
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Cours <rv-j(at)moriarti.org> |
| Subject: | Re: carrying pressurized cylinders |
It's also what happens inside your altimeter. :-)
Tim Bryan wrote:
> Good examples. I think I was hung up on the idea that a steel cylinder was
> kinda well not like a balloon in that how does the outside pressure
> translate through the steel and rigid cylinder walls? I suppose even metal
> objects like a closed, sealed and solid metal container can still grow with
> pressure but then wouldn't that be a really bad thing?
It can range from not good to very bad.
Scuba tanks, for example, have a pressure relief valve, a one-time valve
that's designed to blow if the tank's pressure differential gets
dangerously high. I've heard stories from older dive masters about
listening to the valves blow when people left their tanks in the bright
sun for too long. That's actually a very good safety feature, because if
the valve stem were to blow out of the top of the tank, it could become
an air-powered missile. (They train divers in the safe handling of scuba
tanks for exactly that reason: you don't want a tank falling over and
having the valve stem bang the side of a park bench, for example.)
What happens to a tank of freon probably depends on how they've made the
tank and how much freon it contains.
- Jeff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: carrying pressurized cylinders |
Mount them under the wings, valve facing aft. That way, if they do blow,
they could at least give you a boost for a second.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Soon
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Cours" <rv-j(at)moriarti.org>
Subject: Re: RV-List: carrying pressurized cylinders
>
> It's also what happens inside your altimeter. :-)
>
> Tim Bryan wrote:
>
> > Good examples. I think I was hung up on the idea that a steel cylinder
was
> > kinda well not like a balloon in that how does the outside pressure
> > translate through the steel and rigid cylinder walls? I suppose even
metal
> > objects like a closed, sealed and solid metal container can still grow
with
> > pressure but then wouldn't that be a really bad thing?
>
> It can range from not good to very bad.
>
> Scuba tanks, for example, have a pressure relief valve, a one-time valve
> that's designed to blow if the tank's pressure differential gets
> dangerously high. I've heard stories from older dive masters about
> listening to the valves blow when people left their tanks in the bright
> sun for too long. That's actually a very good safety feature, because if
> the valve stem were to blow out of the top of the tank, it could become
> an air-powered missile. (They train divers in the safe handling of scuba
> tanks for exactly that reason: you don't want a tank falling over and
> having the valve stem bang the side of a park bench, for example.)
>
> What happens to a tank of freon probably depends on how they've made the
> tank and how much freon it contains.
>
> - Jeff
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Stewart Warner 200hp oil cooler result |
Thanks for the report. I have two oil coolers coming from Van's. I think
I'll use the new large cooler from positech they market for the 200 hp/hot
climate environment.
Anyone else using the new largest size oil cooler from Positech?
Lucky
In a message dated 7/21/2004 7:42:30 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Hopperdhh(at)aol.com writes:
To the List,
I just installed the new oil cooler in my RV-7A. I am happy to report that
the money was not wasted. The SW 11 row cooler outperforms the Niagara 13
row
cooler by about 20 degrees F. On a long climb at 25/25 oil temp only went to
210 F. where before it would reach 230 (or more if I would let it) with OAT
about the same -- about 85 degrees. The engine was just overhauled so the
temp
should come down some more.
In all fairness, some of the reduction may be due to installing the wheel and
gear leg fairings.
At any rate, the hot oil problem is solved. I can now use those 200 ponies!
What a blast on takeoff! This airplane is so easy to fly, and easy to land,
too. If you're building one, keep at it, its worth every hour you are
spending on it.
Thanks to Dan Checkoway for the tip on the SW coolers.
Hope to have the time flown off in time for OSH.
Dan Hopper
N766DH
RV-7A (17.5 hours now)
In a message dated 7/14/04 6:15:11 PM US Eastern Standard Time, Hopperdhh
writes:
>
> Lucky,
>
> How timely for me!
>
> I have been flying my RV-7A with the 200 HP IO-360-C1E6 (like A1B6 now) for
> only a week in the hot summer in Indiana. The oil reaches 230 deg. F. in
any
> kind of climb or even level flight at 24 inches/ 2400 RPM with OAT at 85
> deg. We are 850 ft. MSL here. I feel like I'm having to baby the engine
to
> keep the oil temp down. The cyl. heads are OK -- never over 400 deg.
>
> The engine is not broken in yet. I have a firewall mounted 13 row cooler
> from Niagara Air Parts -- their part no. 20006A -- as in Greg Hales RV-8.
> (Search for Greg Hale using your browser for a picture.) My cooler sits at
about
> a 45 degree angle to the firewall making the airflow into it not quite
> direct into the fins. I am feeding an aluminum shroud that I fabricated
(which is
> less than perfect) with 4" scat, but several people have looked at it and
> most say that it should work.
>
> I just ordered the 11 row 10611R Stewart Warner cooler from Pacific Oil
> Coolers, Inc. which is the same size as the 20006A. It will be a week
before it
> gets here from LA, but I'll post the results then.
>
> I really like having the oil cooler on the firewall as opposed to the
baffle
> from a vibration standpoint -- even if I have to go to 5 inch scat!
>
> I have considered lowering the exit scoop an inch because of the poor
> airflow of the cluttered exit area with the 7A's nosegear tubing, and all
kinds of
> other things, blocking the exit area, but decided to try the SW cooler
first.
>
> I would be very glad to hear from others having this problem and what they
> did about it. There's no use having 200 HP if you can't use it.
>
> Dan Hopper
> RV-7A (Flying -- 8 hrs.)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Allen Fulmer" <afulmer(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | WD-421 Aileron Bellcrank bushing |
Striving for perfection now!
WD-421 Aileron Bell crank bushing, DWG 15a
I have reamed the brass bushing with 0.250 reamer, polished the AN4-32a bolt
with 600 sandpaper, lubricated with Bolube, and while the bolt will go
through the bushing it is apparently bent slightly as it will not rotate
freely. Both of the bell crank bushings have this problem.
Any suggestions short of ordering several AN4-32a bolts in the hope of
getting 2 that are straight?
Thanks,
Allen Fulmer
RV7 Wings
N808AF reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Travis Hamblen" <TravisHamblen(at)cox.net> |
I am looking for a picture of the installation of the RV7A rudder tip.
Actually looking for a picture of the bottom tip. I am having trouble
visualizing what needs to get cut and where to cut it. If I could look at
someone else's it would help me to decide how to approach this one. I have
done all the other empennage tips with no problems, but this one is a real
pain, and Vans gives no guidance in the plans! Please e-mail me at the
above address or post a link if you have your picture online.
Thanks in advance...
Travis in Las Vegas, NV
RV7A - Empennage done (waiting on wings and fuse)
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Bibb" <rebibb(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | RV4 Center Console Pictures |
Looking for idea on a center panel for mounting the radio stack and other
things. Anybody got any good pictures for an RV-4 installation please let
me know.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: WD-421 Aileron Bellcrank bushing |
Allen,
You're gonna want to replace that bolt you sanded ASAP! You most likely
removed the cad plating, and the bolt can now rust. The intent is not for
the bushing to rotate around the bolt -- rather the bellcrank rotates around
the bushing. To make this perfectly clear...the bolt & bushing should
remain STATIONARY with respect to the plane and each other. This is the
case for aileron bellcranks, control stick pivots, etc.
(Note: I'm speaking in terms of RV-7 and RV-8 wings only...I can't speak for
the design on other models, but I presume they're similar.)
Hope this helps,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Allen Fulmer" <afulmer(at)charter.net>
Subject: RV-List: WD-421 Aileron Bellcrank bushing
>
> Striving for perfection now!
>
> WD-421 Aileron Bell crank bushing, DWG 15a
>
> I have reamed the brass bushing with 0.250 reamer, polished the AN4-32a
bolt
> with 600 sandpaper, lubricated with Bolube, and while the bolt will go
> through the bushing it is apparently bent slightly as it will not rotate
> freely. Both of the bell crank bushings have this problem.
>
> Any suggestions short of ordering several AN4-32a bolts in the hope of
> getting 2 that are straight?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Allen Fulmer
> RV7 Wings
> N808AF reserved
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: WD-421 Aileron Bellcrank bushing |
> You're gonna want to replace that bolt you sanded ASAP! You most likely
> removed the cad plating, and the bolt can now rust. The intent is not for
> the bushing to rotate around the bolt -- rather the bellcrank rotates
around
> the bushing. To make this perfectly clear...the bolt & bushing should
> remain STATIONARY with respect to the plane and each other. This is the
> case for aileron bellcranks, control stick pivots, etc.
>
> (Note: I'm speaking in terms of RV-7 and RV-8 wings only...I can't speak
for
> the design on other models, but I presume they're similar.)
Dan is correct; but, my controls don't work that way. When I was building
Scooter, I approached my local A&Ps with IAs and discussed how the assembly
is to be built. I could build it as Dan stated; or, I could build it making
the bushing stationary and let it rotate about the bolt. The latter was the
preferred method, by general concensus amongst us. The reason being is to
let the bolt wear out before the assembly. It's easier to replace the bolt
than it is to replace the weldment, if that still exists when the weldment
wears out. Granted, we could be talking about years from now; but, I still
liked the idea of replacing a bolt rather than the assembly. I installed my
bushing with a very tight fit and let the bolt rotate within it. I also
changed out the bolts so that I could use castellated nuts and cotter pins.
I also installed washers at each end of the bushing for friction relief. So
far, it's working quite well. I keep the bolt lubed with LPS-2, each year.
There's very little friction there; so, the bolt should last well into this
century. If not, I'll buy a bushing and bolt instead of an assembly. Much
cheaper to fix, that way.
Although I'm not advocating anyone's changing the way they're doing their
assembly, I just wanted you to know that there is another way to approach
the problem. I'm sure the cad plating is already gone on my bolts because
of the rotation. I'm not planning on replacing them anytime soon, though.
I'm also going to use the same method on my new -7A because it seems like
the right thing to do for me.
Now, to the original question. When the rubbing occurs, is the bolt
tightened down or loose? I'm betting the bolts are straight. You could do
a roll test on a very flat surface and watch for light under them as you
roll them. A bent bolt will have light variances under them as they are
rolled. Is it possible that when you tighten down the bolts that you may be
bending the bushing ever so slightly? I can remember vaguely that mine did
that until I changed my approach to the problem. I can't swear to that,
though. It was a very long time ago.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
RV-7A #70317 (Finishing the tail. Wings awaitin')
EAA Technical Counselor
EAA Flight Advisor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kirk Hammersmith" <kirk(at)direct2avionics.com> |
| Subject: | Blue Mountain EFIS for sale on ebay |
For anyone interested in a BM EFIS or BM EFIS Lite, I came accross this on ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd1&item2485259014&category26436&sspagenameWDVW
Kirk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Blue Mountain EFIS for sale on ebay |
The = signs get removed for some reason, probably a
Microsoft conspiracy. :-)
Try this simplified URL:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2485259014
or search for item number 2485259014.
Mickey
>For anyone interested in a BM EFIS or BM EFIS Lite, I came accross this on ebay.
>
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd1&item2485259014&category26436&sspagenameWDVW
>
>Kirk
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: WD-421 Aileron Bellcrank bushing |
Let me take a different approach. When the bushing rotates on the bolt, the
bolt assumes all the loadings. When the bushing does not rotate on the bolt,
all loadings are taken by the bushing, Since the bushing is larger, it is
stronger to let the fitting rotate about the bushing. That is the way Van
and many others design pivots so they can use a bolt that is small for
lightness but doesn't have the critical strength necessary.
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: WD-421 Aileron Bellcrank bushing
>
>
> > You're gonna want to replace that bolt you sanded ASAP! You most likely
> > removed the cad plating, and the bolt can now rust. The intent is not
for
> > the bushing to rotate around the bolt -- rather the bellcrank rotates
> around
> > the bushing. To make this perfectly clear...the bolt & bushing should
> > remain STATIONARY with respect to the plane and each other. This is the
> > case for aileron bellcranks, control stick pivots, etc.
> >
> > (Note: I'm speaking in terms of RV-7 and RV-8 wings only...I can't speak
> for
> > the design on other models, but I presume they're similar.)
>
> Dan is correct; but, my controls don't work that way. When I was building
> Scooter, I approached my local A&Ps with IAs and discussed how the
assembly
> is to be built. I could build it as Dan stated; or, I could build it
making
> the bushing stationary and let it rotate about the bolt. The latter was
the
> preferred method, by general concensus amongst us. The reason being is to
> let the bolt wear out before the assembly. It's easier to replace the
bolt
> than it is to replace the weldment, if that still exists when the weldment
> wears out. Granted, we could be talking about years from now; but, I
still
> liked the idea of replacing a bolt rather than the assembly. I installed
my
> bushing with a very tight fit and let the bolt rotate within it. I also
> changed out the bolts so that I could use castellated nuts and cotter
pins.
> I also installed washers at each end of the bushing for friction relief.
So
> far, it's working quite well. I keep the bolt lubed with LPS-2, each
year.
> There's very little friction there; so, the bolt should last well into
this
> century. If not, I'll buy a bushing and bolt instead of an assembly.
Much
> cheaper to fix, that way.
>
> Although I'm not advocating anyone's changing the way they're doing their
> assembly, I just wanted you to know that there is another way to approach
> the problem. I'm sure the cad plating is already gone on my bolts because
> of the rotation. I'm not planning on replacing them anytime soon, though.
> I'm also going to use the same method on my new -7A because it seems like
> the right thing to do for me.
>
> Now, to the original question. When the rubbing occurs, is the bolt
> tightened down or loose? I'm betting the bolts are straight. You could
do
> a roll test on a very flat surface and watch for light under them as you
> roll them. A bent bolt will have light variances under them as they are
> rolled. Is it possible that when you tighten down the bolts that you may
be
> bending the bushing ever so slightly? I can remember vaguely that mine
did
> that until I changed my approach to the problem. I can't swear to that,
> though. It was a very long time ago.
>
> Jim Sears in KY
> RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
> RV-7A #70317 (Finishing the tail. Wings awaitin')
> EAA Technical Counselor
> EAA Flight Advisor
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Garrett, Randy L (C4S)" <Randy.L.Garrett(at)gdc4s.com> |
| Subject: | Bahamas trip in November? |
John King (kingjohn(at)erols.com) is organizing a trip to the Bahamas in November.
John has a Kitfox, but has opened this trip to RV's and other types as well. For a sample of John's excellent trip planning skills (and a really fun read), see http://www.sportflight.com/alaska/
I am planning to go. If anyone else is interested, please contact John by email.
Randy
RV-6A
380 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Neal E Capt AU/PC <Neal.George(at)maxwell.af.mil> |
Travis -
I haven't yet mounted the bottom rudder tip on my -7; I'm waiting till the
tail is mounted to make sure there isn't a gross mismatch in the
tailcone-to-rudder intersection. Mine has a line scribed in the gelcoat. A
call to Van's confirmed my suspicion that the scribed line is a trim-to
mark. If you're burning to cut it now just to have something to do, trim to
the scribe mark...
Neal George, RV-7 N8ZG (wings)
> I am having trouble visualizing what needs to get cut and where to cut it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Walker" <ron(at)walker.net> |
Got my first look up close at an RV10 under construction. I've seen the
factory demo one, but seeing the 'guts' really gives you a better
understanding of it. Really sweet lookin even without the skins. These guys
had the emp done, QB wings and were working on the fuse. They're really
making progress and will have it in the air before ya know it.
What *really* impressed me were the new plans! The way the instructions are
printed along side of the assembly drawings now on legal size paper bound in
a binder ! A very nice layout! They just keep getting better and better! Now
if they could go back and retrofit the 7 plans to that format ;o) Wouldn't
help me at all ... but there are plenty out there that WOULD benefit !
It was also cool seeing a 6A, 7A, 9A and 10 all in the same hangar space
that's not at the Vans factory!
Ron
N520TX - 41 hrs and out of my Phase 1 prison cell !!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Bahamas trip in November? |
| From: | "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net> |
Feel free to poke around the site I created for the flight of 15 RV's 3
months ago to the Bahamas and the Turks. It will probably have some
useful info for newbees. This site was the central communications tool
for the group. It was indeed a trip of a lifetime. Funny thing is we all
are interested in headin for Alaska on our next adventure.
Enjoy.
Mike Stewart
http://www.mstewart.net/teamrv/turkscaicos
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Garrett, Randy
L (C4S)
Subject: RV-List: Bahamas trip in November?
John King (kingjohn(at)erols.com) is organizing a trip to the Bahamas in
November.
John has a Kitfox, but has opened this trip to RV's and other types as
well. For a sample of John's excellent trip planning skills (and a
really fun read), see http://www.sportflight.com/alaska/
I am planning to go. If anyone else is interested, please contact John
by email.
Randy
RV-6A
380 hours
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Grover" <grover(at)ev1.net> |
| Subject: | Hotel room available for OSH |
I have reservation for a room at the Best Western in Ripon starting July
28 - Aug. 1st. that I am not going to be able to use. If anyone is
interested in any or all of the days in the block that I have reserved
please contact me off the list.
David Grover
grover(at)ev1.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Sneed <n242ds(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Need help with brake lines |
I have an RV-6 and I have had numerous problems with my brake lines.
The builder used what looks like plastic (poly) brake lines down the
gear leg fairing to the caliper. A couple times the caliper heated up
and melted the plastic tube at the fitting and I lost all my fluid.
Yesterday I did a fast no flap landing and my right brake pedal was
very stiff after landing (probably due to the brake fluid being VERY
hot) once stopped I mashed the brake and POP. At the very top of the
gear leg fairing I have a pin hole in the plastic which leaked the
fluid. I am getting pretty good at landing on a 2000 foot strip with no
brakes but I do not think this is a good thing to brag about.
Obviously I have to get rid of the plastic hose on both sides my
questions are:
1. What type of hose to use?
2. I have woods stiffeners on my gear legs wrapped in glass, do I need
to remove this to install the brake line?
3. Do I need to order pre-made hoses or can I make my own?
4. Is aluminum tubbing better that steel braided? or is there something
better?
5. my brake lines basically are in the middle of the wood stiffeners.
Any help would be great...
Thanks,
Jason Sneed
Commercial Lending Officer
First National Bank and Trust
www.highland-parks.com/n242ds
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
> What *really* impressed me were the new plans! The way the instructions
are
> printed along side of the assembly drawings now on legal size paper bound
in
> a binder ! A very nice layout! They just keep getting better and better!
Now
> if they could go back and retrofit the 7 plans to that format ;o) Wouldn't
> help me at all ... but there are plenty out there that WOULD benefit !
Like Ron, I do like the way they did it; but, I can attest to seeing some
instructions that really need to be edited to make sense. A friend showed
me one that I must have read at least three or four times and still didn't
get much sense out of. As Dana says, we've become assemblers. :-) Even
with some of the minor problems I'm having with the -7A, it sure beats all
of the trial fitting I had to do with the -6A. Not having the mark and
drill holes is nice, as well.
Jim Sears in KY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: WD-421 Aileron Bellcrank bushing |
> Let me take a different approach. When the bushing rotates on the bolt,
the
> bolt assumes all the loadings. When the bushing does not rotate on the
bolt,
> all loadings are taken by the bushing, Since the bushing is larger, it is
> stronger to let the fitting rotate about the bushing. That is the way Van
> and many others design pivots so they can use a bolt that is small for
> lightness but doesn't have the critical strength necessary.
That's a good observation; but, it seems to me that the loads, which haven't
been very heavy in my RV, would be in shear. If that's the case, wouldn't
the shear loads be carried by the bolt, no matter how big or small it is and
which of the two methods is used? I'm no engineer; so, I can't swear to it.
I just know the method I used was the preferred method when I talked with my
IA buddies. It made sense then and still does. I think we talked about
shear, as well. It's been a long while ago, though. With the bolt rotating
in the bushing, one might want to check the bolt for wear more often than
when the assembly is rotating around the bushing. I don't think it rotates
all that much, though. Unless one is beating the heck out of the end points
of the stick throws, there is very little force on those bolts. Just how
much force is required when one is flying by barely touching the stick with
the fingertips? Even when the loads are heavier in the pattern, they
aren't very much because we trim that out. Under aerobatic loads, one might
see things load up a bit. Since I'm a big chicken, I've not experienced
those loads in Scooter. :-)
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rebibb(at)comcast.net |
Has anyone ever used National Paint Industries Uraglow Polyurethane Enamel? I'm
thinkking using it on my RV and wanted to see if anyone has ever used or seen
it being used.
Thanks
Has anyone ever used National Paint Industries Uraglow Polyurethane Enamel? I'm
thinkking using it on my RV and wanted to see if anyone has ever used or seen
it being used.
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: WD-421 Aileron Bellcrank bushing |
Thanks Cy, that was the explanation I was going to send. The reason you gave
was hashed out on the list a few years ago.
Cash Copeland A&P
RV-6 N46FC
Hayward, Ca
In a message dated 7/22/2004 5:57:11 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
cgalley(at)qcbc.org writes:
Let me take a different approach. When the bushing rotates on the bolt, the
bolt assumes all the loadings. When the bushing does not rotate on the bolt,
all loadings are taken by the bushing, Since the bushing is larger, it is
stronger to let the fitting rotate about the bushing. That is the way Van
and many others design pivots so they can use a bolt that is small for
lightness but doesn't have the critical strength necessary.
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: WD-421 Aileron Bellcrank bushing
>
>
> > You're gonna want to replace that bolt you sanded ASAP! You most likely
> > removed the cad plating, and the bolt can now rust. The intent is not
for
> > the bushing to rotate around the bolt -- rather the bellcrank rotates
> around
> > the bushing. To make this perfectly clear...the bolt & bushing should
> > remain STATIONARY with respect to the plane and each other. This is the
> > case for aileron bellcranks, control stick pivots, etc.
> >
> > (Note: I'm speaking in terms of RV-7 and RV-8 wings only...I can't speak
> for
> > the design on other models, but I presume they're similar.)
>
> Dan is correct; but, my controls don't work that way. When I was building
> Scooter, I approached my local A&Ps with IAs and discussed how the
assembly
> is to be built. I could build it as Dan stated; or, I could build it
making
> the bushing stationary and let it rotate about the bolt. The latter was
the
> preferred method, by general concensus amongst us. The reason being is to
> let the bolt wear out before the assembly. It's easier to replace the
bolt
> than it is to replace the weldment, if that still exists when the weldment
> wears out. Granted, we could be talking about years from now; but, I
still
> liked the idea of replacing a bolt rather than the assembly. I installed
my
> bushing with a very tight fit and let the bolt rotate within it. I also
> changed out the bolts so that I could use castellated nuts and cotter
pins.
> I also installed washers at each end of the bushing for friction relief.
So
> far, it's working quite well. I keep the bolt lubed with LPS-2, each
year.
> There's very little friction there; so, the bolt should last well into
this
> century. If not, I'll buy a bushing and bolt instead of an assembly.
Much
> cheaper to fix, that way.
>
> Although I'm not advocating anyone's changing the way they're doing their
> assembly, I just wanted you to know that there is another way to approach
> the problem. I'm sure the cad plating is already gone on my bolts because
> of the rotation. I'm not planning on replacing them anytime soon, though.
> I'm also going to use the same method on my new -7A because it seems like
> the right thing to do for me.
>
> Now, to the original question. When the rubbing occurs, is the bolt
> tightened down or loose? I'm betting the bolts are straight. You could
do
> a roll test on a very flat surface and watch for light under them as you
> roll them. A bent bolt will have light variances under them as they are
> rolled. Is it possible that when you tighten down the bolts that you may
be
> bending the bushing ever so slightly? I can remember vaguely that mine
did
> that until I changed my approach to the problem. I can't swear to that,
> though. It was a very long time ago.
>
> Jim Sears in KY
> RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
> RV-7A #70317 (Finishing the tail. Wings awaitin')
> EAA Technical Counselor
> EAA Flight Advisor
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <rv6flyer(at)improvementteam.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need help with brake lines |
Jason,
The plans call for soft aluminum tubing to the brakes from the firewall area
You may be able to just replace a small section near and connecting to the
brake caliper to eliminate the heat.
Tim Bryan
RV-6 N616TB
-------Original Message-------
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Date: 07/22/04 09:21:52
Subject: RV-List: Need help with brake lines
I have an RV-6 and I have had numerous problems with my brake lines.
The builder used what looks like plastic (poly) brake lines down the
gear leg fairing to the caliper. A couple times the caliper heated up
and melted the plastic tube at the fitting and I lost all my fluid.
Yesterday I did a fast no flap landing and my right brake pedal was
very stiff after landing (probably due to the brake fluid being VERY
hot) once stopped I mashed the brake and POP. At the very top of the
gear leg fairing I have a pin hole in the plastic which leaked the
fluid. I am getting pretty good at landing on a 2000 foot strip with no
brakes but I do not think this is a good thing to brag about.
Obviously I have to get rid of the plastic hose on both sides my
questions are:
1. What type of hose to use?
2. I have woods stiffeners on my gear legs wrapped in glass, do I need
to remove this to install the brake line?
3. Do I need to order pre-made hoses or can I make my own?
4. Is aluminum tubbing better that steel braided? or is there something
better?
5. my brake lines basically are in the middle of the wood stiffeners.
Any help would be great...
Thanks,
Jason Sneed
Commercial Lending Officer
First National Bank and Trust
www.highland-parks.com/n242ds
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: WD-421 Aileron Bellcrank bushing |
Jim and Others
Van's bellcrank designs, at least in the RV-9/9A, is that the bushing is
slightly longer than the bellcrank tube so that the bellcrank rotates about
the captured bushing. By design, the bolt is more than adequate to take out
any induced shear loads. The only contribution that the bushing could make
against shear loads would be slight from the clamping friction at each end
supplied by the bolt pressure. The bushing is the sacrificial material in
the rotating joint. The wear rate on the OD of the bushing will be less than
it would be on the ID due to the larger surface area and lower unit surface
pressures involved. This design allows for easy bushing replacement and
precludes bolt rotation that could enlarge holes in the support brackets.
Hope this adds a little clarity to the situation.
Dean Van Winkle
RV-9A Fuselage/Finish
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: WD-421 Aileron Bellcrank bushing
>
>
> > Let me take a different approach. When the bushing rotates on the bolt,
> the
> > bolt assumes all the loadings. When the bushing does not rotate on the
> bolt,
> > all loadings are taken by the bushing, Since the bushing is larger, it
is
> > stronger to let the fitting rotate about the bushing. That is the way
Van
> > and many others design pivots so they can use a bolt that is small for
> > lightness but doesn't have the critical strength necessary.
>
> That's a good observation; but, it seems to me that the loads, which
haven't
> been very heavy in my RV, would be in shear. If that's the case, wouldn't
> the shear loads be carried by the bolt, no matter how big or small it is
and
> which of the two methods is used? I'm no engineer; so, I can't swear to
it.
> I just know the method I used was the preferred method when I talked with
my
> IA buddies. It made sense then and still does. I think we talked about
> shear, as well. It's been a long while ago, though. With the bolt
rotating
> in the bushing, one might want to check the bolt for wear more often than
> when the assembly is rotating around the bushing. I don't think it
rotates
> all that much, though. Unless one is beating the heck out of the end
points
> of the stick throws, there is very little force on those bolts. Just how
> much force is required when one is flying by barely touching the stick
with
> the fingertips? Even when the loads are heavier in the pattern, they
> aren't very much because we trim that out. Under aerobatic loads, one
might
> see things load up a bit. Since I'm a big chicken, I've not experienced
> those loads in Scooter. :-)
>
> Jim Sears in KY
> RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Garrett, Randy L (C4S)" <Randy.L.Garrett(at)gdc4s.com> |
| Subject: | Avionics shop in New England? |
It's time for me to get my biennial transponder check.
Is there an avionics shop in the Boston / Providence area that anyone particularly
recommends?
Thanks, Randy
RV-6A
380 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pressure Trivia (was carrying pressurized cylinders) |
| From: | Sebastian Trost <sebastian.trost(at)sbcglobal.net> |
I don't know what airliner you were flying, but the Boeing 737 baggage
compartment is pressurized, as I think all other jets are. You do get to
8000' cabin altitude, which I have had pop open sunscreen tubes, but you get
to the same altitude sitting in the cabin. That's why passengers with a
head cold have ear pain on descent...
Sebastian Trost
RV-7A QB Tipup
Just got finish kit
Working on rollover bar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Need help with brake lines |
Jason,
On all the current aircraft the brake lines from the fuselage to the brake
calipers are aluminum. You may be able to snake the alum line through as
you pull the poly line out from your gear legs.
Mike Robertson
>From: Jason Sneed <n242ds(at)cox.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Need help with brake lines
>Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2004 10:34:30 -0500
>
>
>I have an RV-6 and I have had numerous problems with my brake lines.
>The builder used what looks like plastic (poly) brake lines down the
>gear leg fairing to the caliper. A couple times the caliper heated up
>and melted the plastic tube at the fitting and I lost all my fluid.
>Yesterday I did a fast no flap landing and my right brake pedal was
>very stiff after landing (probably due to the brake fluid being VERY
>hot) once stopped I mashed the brake and POP. At the very top of the
>gear leg fairing I have a pin hole in the plastic which leaked the
>fluid. I am getting pretty good at landing on a 2000 foot strip with no
>brakes but I do not think this is a good thing to brag about.
>
>Obviously I have to get rid of the plastic hose on both sides my
>questions are:
>
>1. What type of hose to use?
>2. I have woods stiffeners on my gear legs wrapped in glass, do I need
>to remove this to install the brake line?
>3. Do I need to order pre-made hoses or can I make my own?
>4. Is aluminum tubbing better that steel braided? or is there something
>better?
>5. my brake lines basically are in the middle of the wood stiffeners.
>
>Any help would be great...
>
>Thanks,
>
>Jason Sneed
>Commercial Lending Officer
>First National Bank and Trust
>www.highland-parks.com/n242ds
>
>
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Camping in Vintage Camping in Oshkosh |
This is a heads up for all who would like to continue camping in the
ORIGINAL showplane camping area by vintage planes.
Antique/classic/vintage has informed us that as a general rule only
vintage airplanes can camp in that area. homebuilds will have to go to
the *NEW* homebuild area, west of the RV parking area.
only *pre-approved* non-vintage airplanes will be allowed. At least that
is what we, the 'north-point crew' have een told.
Ya'all read my buddy Jeff's article in the RVator on signs, signals,
etc. If not, please do. If you do NOT have a readable sign, and sticky
notes in pencil behind the colored canopy do not count as a sign, count
on being stopped at about *every* intersection.
For those who are 'old timers' and have parked in the rv area before,
know that the taxiway leading up to the RV area and now the new
homebuilt/showplane camping is only a ONE_WAY taxiway.
This means that if traffic is en-route on the taxi way we have to not
only hold you but also *STAGE* you at the entry to the warbird area.
This to prevent a mexican stand-off at the intersection with Papa 1.
Read about the EAA PECKING ORDER in the RVator.
Please, please, when we direct you in the throat of the warbird area by
the trimoter, turn into the throat and make a 180 degree turn so you
face south again. Unless you fly in nigerian warbird RV6 colors you
won't be welcome in warbirds. Hopefully we will be able to accomoate you
as soon as possible.
Gert
p.s.
Did I mention yet to bring yer 8x11 sign..facing the orange vests...the
one in the NOTAMs....For several years now, the FAA folks have joked
with us about starting NOTAM checks, let's hope it stays a joke. Last
year one of them stood at north point doing an informal count of lack of
signs.....he left shaking his head in despair....I have seen the feds
follow at least 2 airplanes to their parking spots for gross neglect of
following hand signals, almost running over an orange vest in each
instance did not help their course..., neither airplane was an RV of
course, but....have a copy in the airplane.....ya never know...
--
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Fw: Firewall access through oil filler door |
Fellow listers,
I'm thinking about mounting a battery charger connector on my firewall so that
I can keep my battery charged as my AM/FM radio draws some current to keep the
stations/clock....
I'm trying to determine what area on the firewall can be reached through the oil
filler door so I can mount this thing before I close the forward top skin and
work on my canopy
Does anyone have a general idea of what can be reached? I'm hoping for an area
above and to the right/left of where Van's firewall forward instructions tell
you to put the brake fluid reservior.
Thanks,
Ralph Capen
RV6AQB - N822AR on the gear - engine's real soon
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Need help with brake lines |
Go to Pegasus racing, they have some an4 stainless steel braided hose and
fittings. Very easy to assemble and very flexible. E-mail me offline if you
can't find the part numbers and I'll get the catalog from the hanger this
weekend.
-Mike Kraus
N223RV RV-4 Flying
N213RV RV-10 Empennage complete, working on Tailcone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Firewall access through oil filler door |
Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>
>Fellow listers,
>
>I'm thinking about mounting a battery charger connector on my firewall so that
I can keep my battery charged as my AM/FM radio draws some current to keep the
stations/clock....
>
>I'm trying to determine what area on the firewall can be reached through the oil
filler door so I can mount this thing before I close the forward top skin and
work on my canopy
>
>Does anyone have a general idea of what can be reached? I'm hoping for an area
above and to the right/left of where Van's firewall forward instructions tell
you to put the brake fluid reservior.
>
>Thanks,
>Ralph Capen
>RV6AQB - N822AR on the gear - engine's real soon
>
Great idea Ralph, but instead of mounting it to the firewall, why not
attach a pigtail to the engine mount with a ty-rap or some other type of
clip? That way it would be easily accessible and the open oil door
would vent the heat after a flight. Radio Shack has some nice molex
polarized 2-pin connectors that are just made to order for this job.
Just use the molex crimping tool.
Linn
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Firewall access through oil filler door |
A 2-prong extension cord works well in this application too. The female
end gets cut off and attached to the battery, and tie-wrapped to the
mount. The male end can be used to connect to the charger with whatever
kind of connector is called for. The male end/ charger adapter is part
of my emergency tool kit.
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
>Great idea Ralph, but instead of mounting it to the firewall, why not
>attach a pigtail to the engine mount with a ty-rap or some other type of
>clip? That way it would be easily accessible and the open oil door
>would vent the heat after a flight. Radio Shack has some nice molex
>polarized 2-pin connectors that are just made to order for this job.
>Just use the molex crimping tool.
>Linn
>
>
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Firewall access through oil filler door |
Ralph,
I wanted to be able to do the same, but came up with a different way to
do than putting it on the firewall.
I have a 12V receptacle in the cockpit that's hooked straight to the E
bus, which comes straight off the battery. I made an adapter from the
male 12V plug for the battery tender. Works great to keep the
battery topped off.
YMMV,
Laird RV-6 950 hrs
SoCal
On Jul 22, 2004, at 6:54 PM, linn walters wrote:
>
> Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Fellow listers,
>>
>> I'm thinking about mounting a battery charger connector on my
>> firewall so that I can keep my battery charged as my AM/FM radio
>> draws some current to keep the stations/clock....
>>
>> I'm trying to determine what area on the firewall can be reached
>> through the oil filler door so I can mount this thing before I close
>> the forward top skin and work on my canopy
>>
>> Does anyone have a general idea of what can be reached? I'm hoping
>> for an area above and to the right/left of where Van's firewall
>> forward instructions tell you to put the brake fluid reservior.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Ralph Capen
>> RV6AQB - N822AR on the gear - engine's real soon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harvey Sigmon" <rv6hes(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Firewall access through oil filler door |
Ralph: On my RV-6A I installed a external power receptacle system inside
the oil door. What I did was at my airplane junkyard I removed the whole
external power system from a piper Cherokee. Inside the door aft on the
engine mount V I mounted the Receptacle Socket and on the opposite side of
the firewall I mounted the relay to control the power. And the power feeds
through the firewall to the battery bus. Inside the oil door I have a
switch to control the external power Relay. I also carry with my tools a
jumper cord to start the engine if the battery might be dead. I think
Electric Bob has an schematic idea of how to do this, Works fine.
Harvey Sigmon RV-6A N602RV
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Fw: Firewall access through oil filler door
>
> Fellow listers,
>
> I'm thinking about mounting a battery charger connector on my firewall so
that I can keep my battery charged as my AM/FM radio draws some current to
keep the stations/clock....
>
> I'm trying to determine what area on the firewall can be reached through
the oil filler door so I can mount this thing before I close the forward top
skin and work on my canopy
>
> Does anyone have a general idea of what can be reached? I'm hoping for an
area above and to the right/left of where Van's firewall forward
instructions tell you to put the brake fluid reservior.
>
> Thanks,
> Ralph Capen
> RV6AQB - N822AR on the gear - engine's real soon
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Anglin" <jlanglin44(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Tach & Tune and Bank for sale |
I have in excellent condition a used Mitchell tach with 27" cable and a
Bendix Turn and Bank that hasn't been used since I got this -4. I am
getting rid of them because my tach drive seal is leaking and I don't want
to tear the engine apart to fix it so I went with electric. I don't want to
put on a vac. pump so the T & B has got to go.
I can email pictures.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Firewall access through oil filler door |
In a message dated 7/22/2004 7:46:57 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
owens(at)aerovironment.com writes:
I have a 12V receptacle in the cockpit that's hooked straight to the E
bus, which comes straight off the battery. I made an adapter from the
male 12V plug for the battery tender. Works great to keep the
battery topped off.
====================================
Also good for charging the cell phone overnight while airplane camping.
Always connect your 12V receptacle (lighter socket) thru a circuit breaker (or
fuse) directly to the battery bus and it can do double duty unattended.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 708 hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: WD-421 Aileron Bellcrank bushing |
> Jim and Others
>
> Van's bellcrank designs, at least in the RV-9/9A, is that the bushing is
> slightly longer than the bellcrank tube so that the bellcrank rotates
about
> the captured bushing. By design, the bolt is more than adequate to take
out
> any induced shear loads. The only contribution that the bushing could make
> against shear loads would be slight from the clamping friction at each end
> supplied by the bolt pressure. The bushing is the sacrificial material in
> the rotating joint. The wear rate on the OD of the bushing will be less
than
> it would be on the ID due to the larger surface area and lower unit
surface
> pressures involved. This design allows for easy bushing replacement and
> precludes bolt rotation that could enlarge holes in the support brackets.
> Hope this adds a little clarity to the situation.
>
Now, that makes much more sense. I also thought about the hole enlargement;
but, that doesn't seem to be happening. I did get the rubbing as in the
original request on this thread when I tried tightening the bolt down on the
bushing. That went away when I went with the method I used. Thanks for the
input!
Jim Sears in KY
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fw: Firewall access through oil filler door |
| From: | "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net> |
I have a picture of my installation on my engine mount through the
firewall access door.
http://www.mstewart.net/michael/rv/
under the 6A/systems/electrical/ramp jump
1300 hrs. of flying her. Never used it. Super 8 will NOT have it.
That said, my firewall has the master relay(always hot on one side)
mounted on the right side under the oil door and I have put jumpers down
there for various reasons to check voltage, or get live voltage, or
what ever on many occasions.
Mike
Headin to Mason City IA for Clinic in the morning. 37 pilots registered.
Sweet!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
Subject: RV-List: Fw: Firewall access through oil filler door
Fellow listers,
I'm thinking about mounting a battery charger connector on my firewall
so that I can keep my battery charged as my AM/FM radio draws some
current to keep the stations/clock....
I'm trying to determine what area on the firewall can be reached through
the oil filler door so I can mount this thing before I close the forward
top skin and work on my canopy
Does anyone have a general idea of what can be reached? I'm hoping for
an area above and to the right/left of where Van's firewall forward
instructions tell you to put the brake fluid reservior.
Thanks,
Ralph Capen
RV6AQB - N822AR on the gear - engine's real soon
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neil Henderson" <neil.mo51(at)btopenworld.com> |
| Subject: | Counter Balance Weights |
Listers
Last year some time their was a thread about additional elevator counter balance
weight being required to compensate for the trim servo and paint. I seem to
recall it emanated from a Vans. Can anyone throw any light on this subject as
I'm about to close up the tip prior to paint.
Thanks Neil Henderson RV9A Aylesbury UK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Anglin" <jlanglin44(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Tach and T&B for sale |
You can see these on ebay after 6 tonight. Do a search.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: WD-421 Aileron Bellcrank bushing |
I too and a small amount of binding when I tightened
the bolt, but I found that the binding tended to be in
certain spots. By trial and error I rotated the
bushing a bit & tightened the bolt, and was able to
find a spot that was completely free of binding
throughout the range of bellcrank travel.
Incidentally, my bushings did not fit freely into the
bellcrank weldments out of the box. I think the tubes
were slightly distorted from the welds of the arms,
and also hardened in those areas so they weren't
reamed perfectly smooth from the factory. I had to
spend quite a bit of time "massaging" the bushings and
the inside of the bellcrank tubes, until the bushing
rotated freely and smoothly inside the bellcrank.
--- Jim Sears wrote:
> Now, that makes much more sense. I also thought
> about the hole enlargement;
> but, that doesn't seem to be happening. I did get
> the rubbing as in the
> original request on this thread when I tried
> tightening the bolt down on the
> bushing. That went away when I went with the method
> I used. Thanks for the
> input!
>
> Jim Sears in KY
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://advision.webevents.yahoo.com/yahoo/votelifeengine/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Counter Balance Weights |
I had to make new weights for the left elevator. I cast them from lead wheel
balance weights from a tire shop. Don't remember the exact weight, but was
quite a bit more than the stock weight.
Cash Copeland
RV-6
Hayward, Ca
In a message dated 7/23/2004 6:13:47 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
neil.mo51(at)btopenworld.com writes:
Listers
Last year some time their was a thread about additional elevator counter
balance weight being required to compensate for the trim servo and paint. I seem
to recall it emanated from a Vans. Can anyone throw any light on this subject
as I'm about to close up the tip prior to paint.
Thanks Neil Henderson RV9A Aylesbury UK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cammie Patch" <cammie(at)sunvalley.net> |
| Subject: | Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhh!!! |
Mayday Mayday Mayday!
Dan Checkoway's site is down.... All work has come to a halt....
deep breaths, deep breaths
Maybe it's safe to debur stiffeners for now.....
Dan, please send me a cd version of your site right away to avoid future
trama!
Cammie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Headset Recommendation |
This is interesting! Two or three years ago, I asked one of Lightspeed's
reps at the Washington State Aviation Conference if the cord could be put on
the right, and got a "No, of course not." or similar response. It was the
only negative experience I have had with Lightspeed, but it was enough to
leave a bad taste. They considered their headsets the ideal choice for
RV-4's and 8's, but didn't give a damn about whether we had to climb over
the cord and wrap it around behind us or not. Glad to see they figured out
what at least some of their customers need. I'll see if I can get them to
switch mine.
Terry
<bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
I sent them a 25XL for repair......came back with the cord and mike of the
right! So it can be changed.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | CHTs, EGTs, and Oil Temp |
I continue to have high CHTs, especially on climbout.
I went flying this morning with OAT about 80. At 3000' in
a stabilized cruise with no leaning, I saw the following numbers
for EGTs & CHTs:
Cyl 1 1280 372
Cyl 2 1269 365
Cyl 3 1300 391
Cyl 4 1295 361
Oil temp was 195.
Data taken at 2240 RPM.
The EGTs seem low if anything and the oil temperature certainly
isn't real hot. The CHTs just seem too high and cylinder 3 can
easily climb to 430+ on climbout at which point I throttle back
to stop the climb in temperature. I have a small baffle in front
of cylinder 1 and cylinders 1 & 3 are very close during climbout
despite the 19 degree difference in cruise. I built a plenum
but never put the permatex around the baffle/engine line. I'm
going to do that real soon. It seems like I should be getting 50
degrees cooler from my setup. Can the permatex make that
much difference? Anybody have experience before and after
using caulking on their baffling?
(BTW, I calibrated my CHT sensors against a candy thermometer
at about 400 degrees and they were easily within 5 degrees of each
other.)
Thanks in advance.
Doug Medema
RV-6A N276DM
I continue to have high CHTs, especially on climbout.
I went flying this morning with OAT about 80. At 3000' in
a stabilized cruise with no leaning, I saw the following numbers
for EGTs CHTs:
Cyl 1 1280 372
Cyl 21269 365
Cyl 31300 391
Cyl 41295 361
Oil temp was 195.
Data taken at 2240 RPM.
The EGTs seem low if anything and the oil temperature certainly
isn't real hot. The CHTs just seem too high and cylinder 3 can
easily climb to 430+ on climbout at which point I throttle back
to stop the climb in temperature. I have a small baffle in front
of cylinder 1 and cylinders 1 3 are very close during climbout
despite the 19 degree difference in cruise. I built a plenum
but never put the permatex around the baffle/engine line. I'm
going to do that real soon. It seems like I should be getting 50
degrees cooler from my setup. Can the permatex make that
much difference? Anybody have experience before and after
using caulking on their baffling?
(BTW, I calibrated my CHT sensors against a candy thermometer
at about 400 degrees and they were easily within 5 degrees of each
other.)
Thanks in advance.
Doug Medema
RV-6A N276DM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Firewall access through oil filler door |
Mike,
This is probably close to what I'm looking for - but I can't get to your
website.....
Maybe when you get back....
Thanks,
Ralph
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Fw: Firewall access through oil filler door
>
> I have a picture of my installation on my engine mount through the
> firewall access door.
> http://www.mstewart.net/michael/rv/
>
> under the 6A/systems/electrical/ramp jump
>
> 1300 hrs. of flying her. Never used it. Super 8 will NOT have it.
>
> That said, my firewall has the master relay(always hot on one side)
> mounted on the right side under the oil door and I have put jumpers down
> there for various reasons to check voltage, or get live voltage, or
> what ever on many occasions.
>
> Mike
> Headin to Mason City IA for Clinic in the morning. 37 pilots registered.
> Sweet!
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Fw: Firewall access through oil filler door
>
>
> Fellow listers,
>
> I'm thinking about mounting a battery charger connector on my firewall
> so that I can keep my battery charged as my AM/FM radio draws some
> current to keep the stations/clock....
>
> I'm trying to determine what area on the firewall can be reached through
> the oil filler door so I can mount this thing before I close the forward
> top skin and work on my canopy
>
> Does anyone have a general idea of what can be reached? I'm hoping for
> an area above and to the right/left of where Van's firewall forward
> instructions tell you to put the brake fluid reservior.
>
> Thanks,
> Ralph Capen
> RV6AQB - N822AR on the gear - engine's real soon
>
>
> =
> =
> =
> =
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Allen Fulmer" <afulmer(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | WD-421 Aileron Bellcrank bushing |
I started this thread and now that I have seen all the responses I think I
have it down pat. Amazing how much feedback a seemingly simple plea can
evoke!
I actually ended up passing a .375 drill through the bell crank before the
.375 bushing would slide in freely. I too think the welding caused some
high spots on the interior of the bell crank.
Moving on now! Thanks to everyone.
Allen Fulmer
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Skylor Piper
Subject: Re: RV-List: WD-421 Aileron Bellcrank bushing
I too and a small amount of binding when I tightened
the bolt, but I found that the binding tended to be in
certain spots. By trial and error I rotated the
bushing a bit & tightened the bolt, and was able to
find a spot that was completely free of binding
throughout the range of bellcrank travel.
Incidentally, my bushings did not fit freely into the
bellcrank weldments out of the box. I think the tubes
were slightly distorted from the welds of the arms,
and also hardened in those areas so they weren't
reamed perfectly smooth from the factory. I had to
spend quite a bit of time "massaging" the bushings and
the inside of the bellcrank tubes, until the bushing
rotated freely and smoothly inside the bellcrank.
--- Jim Sears wrote:
> Now, that makes much more sense. I also thought
> about the hole enlargement;
> but, that doesn't seem to be happening. I did get
> the rubbing as in the
> original request on this thread when I tried
> tightening the bolt down on the
> bushing. That went away when I went with the method
> I used. Thanks for the
> input!
>
> Jim Sears in KY
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
__________________________________
http://advision.webevents.yahoo.com/yahoo/votelifeengine/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cammie Patch" <cammie(at)sunvalley.net> |
| Subject: | Brake pedal finish |
After constructing my brake pedals (and priming each part) I thought about
what kind of finish to put on them. I flew a 182 the other day and noticed
that it's painted pedals were worn thru to the aluminum, so I didn't want to
go the paint route. Anodizing sounded cool, but the primer was already
on.....
So, I took the pedals to a local Ameriguard store (like Rhino Lining) and
had him spray a black truck bed liner coating on them. I taped off the sides
so it won't interfere with the rudder assembly, then painted the sides
black. They look awesome! Now that the rudder/brake assembly is done, I'm
thinking about storing it on the living room wall. :-)
I tried to upload a picture, but it wouldn't go thru. I can email a pic to
anyone who is interested.
Cammie
RV-7a
N5YR reserved
(might have to change the number to 6YR if I can't get finished by January!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
| Subject: | CHTs, EGTs, and Oil Temp |
I have an O-320 with a Sensenich prop. I also have about the same Cyl temps
with #3being the hottest at 390 in cruise and will hit 450 on climb. I had a
very tight plenum and took it off but had no effect on the cht's. My oil
temp is also cold and I put a flap to close it off and still only see 210 on
the hottest days with the flap closed. I spoke to Lycomming at SNF and they
said its fine, go fly and forget it. I have about 180 degree spread on egt
at cruise and 50 degree on cht. I'm not happy about it but have no answers
as of yet.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Firewall access through oil filler door |
Jeff,
I like the your basic idea but, if I'm reading your message correctly,
the implementation bothers me on several counts. First, it appears that
you have an unprotected male connector that could easily short your
battery if it inadvertently touches a ground. Second, it would be very
easy to get the polarity reversed from the charger. And three, I sure
don't want to be around when someone mistakes it for an engine
pre-heater and connects it to 110 v. 8>)
I'd recommend using a connector that is protected from accidental
shorting, can't be reversed and doesn't look like a 110v plug. Also, I'd
put a fuse somewhere in the wire, probably close to the battery connection.
Dave Bristol RV6 So Cal
EAA Technical Counselor and Flight Advisor
Jeff Point wrote:
>--> message posted by: Jeff Point
>
>A 2-prong extension cord works well in this application too. The female
>end gets cut off and attached to the battery, and tie-wrapped to the
>mount. The male end can be used to connect to the charger with whatever
>kind of connector is called for. The male end/ charger adapter is part
>of my emergency tool kit.
>
>Jeff Point
>RV-6
>Milwaukee WI
>
>
>
>>Great idea Ralph, but instead of mounting it to the firewall, why not
>>attach a pigtail to the engine mount with a ty-rap or some other type of
>>clip? That way it would be easily accessible and the open oil door
>>would vent the heat after a flight. Radio Shack has some nice molex
>>polarized 2-pin connectors that are just made to order for this job.
>>Just use the molex crimping tool.
>>Linn
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal / Carol Kempthorne <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | CHTs, EGTs, and Oil Temp |
At 06:25 PM 7/23/2004, you wrote:
>
>I have about 180 degree spread on egt
>at cruise
Isn't that tod big a spread for a Lycoming 4? Maybe try switching probes
to see that gauge is okay.
Of course, if one is extra hot really then maybe a valve is leaking. Or...
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: CHTs, EGTs, and Oil Temp |
Hal / Carol Kempthorne wrote:
>
>At 06:25 PM 7/23/2004, you wrote:
>
>
>>
>>I have about 180 degree spread on egt
>>at cruise
>>
>>
>
>Isn't that tod big a spread for a Lycoming 4? Maybe try switching probes
>to see that gauge is okay.
>
>Of course, if one is extra hot really then maybe a valve is leaking. Or...
>hal
>
>
>
>
Perfectly normal on a carberator engine.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mxbruegger(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhh!!! |
Hi all, I too bought the CD but never use it because my connection speed is
fantastic. I only got it because I think Dan deserves something in return for
the endless information on his site. This also takes him endless hours to
continue to put together just so all of us waiting for an update have something
new to read and learn. I think that anyone who has gained anything at all
from Dan's site should drop the small chunk of pizza change and show your
thanks. (............. okay, maybe some beer change in there as well :)........).
Anyway, nothing beats a permanent copy if you ask me! And Dan, keep writing
as we all love the whole thing as it develops now into ownership trials and
tribulations of your RV7.
Mike....................'
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Jurotich <mjurotich(at)hst.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: CHTs, EGTs, and Oil Temp |
Might want to try the archives. I seem to remember a story about casting
flash causing very high temps on some cylinders.
Matthew M. Jurotich
NASA/Goddard Space Flight Center
JWST ISIM Systems Engineer
m/c : 443
e-mail mailto: mjurotich(at)hst.nasa.gov
phone : 301-286-5919
fax : 301-286-7021
JWST
URL:
<http://ngst1.gsfc.nasa.gov>http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list/Digest.RV-List.2004-07-23.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
Hi,
How does one tap an NPT (American Standard Taper Pipe thread),
since it is tapered? Anyone know of a good place to pick up
a tap and die kit with all the "common" sizes we use on an RV?
Thanks,
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry2DT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Candy thermometer? |
Doug,
Aren't you assuming then, that the candy thermometer is correct? These things
are not lab quality instruments I think... Would it work to boil some water
at 212 deg. (adjusted for local elevation) and calibrate against that? I'm sure
some scientists on this board would have thoughts on this. JM .02...
Jerry Cochran
(BTW, I calibrated my CHT sensors against a candy thermometer
at about 400 degrees and they were easily within 5 degrees of each
other.)
Thanks in advance.
Doug Medema
RV-6A N276DM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: NPT question |
In a message dated 7/24/2004 8:51:54 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch writes:
How does one tap an NPT (American Standard Taper Pipe thread),
since it is tapered? Anyone know of a good place to pick up
a tap and die kit with all the "common" sizes we use on an RV?
====================================
I never needed any building my 6A, but these are readily available many
places. I know McMaster-Carr, Olander and MSC would have them. You probably
need only two sizes, 1/8" and 1/4".
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 708 hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ammeter <jammeter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: NPT question |
>
>Hi,
>
>How does one tap an NPT (American Standard Taper Pipe thread),
>since it is tapered? Anyone know of a good place to pick up
>a tap and die kit with all the "common" sizes we use on an RV?
>
>Thanks,
>Mickey
The NPT thread dies are available at most larger hardware
stores. I built an RV-6 and don't recall ever needing to
tap anything, though...
What is it that you're wanting to tap??
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: NPT question |
The 1/8 and 1/4 are probably available right in you local hardware
store. Also, I know Home Depot carries them.
That said, you probably don't really need them.
Dick Tasker, RV9A # 90573
Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
>In a message dated 7/24/2004 8:51:54 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
>mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch writes:
>
>How does one tap an NPT (American Standard Taper Pipe thread),
>since it is tapered? Anyone know of a good place to pick up
>a tap and die kit with all the "common" sizes we use on an RV?
>
>
>====================================
>
>I never needed any building my 6A, but these are readily available many
>places. I know McMaster-Carr, Olander and MSC would have them. You probably
>need only two sizes, 1/8" and 1/4".
>
>GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 708 hrs)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: NPT question |
Hi,
My local HW stores only have metric stuff, since I
live in Switzerland. I was back in the US a week
or so ago, but I had not yet stripped out the
NPT fitting on the ACS A-600 brake reservoirs
when I was there. I think I'll just buy a
new reservoir, or go back to the Van's method.
Probably the easiest.
Best regards,
Mickey
>The NPT thread dies are available at most larger hardware
>stores. I built an RV-6 and don't recall ever needing to
>tap anything, though...
>
>What is it that you're wanting to tap??
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net (Chris Brooks) |
| Subject: | Re: Counter Balance Weights |
I would suggest that you sand the inside of the fiberglass tips before
you install them. I had to add weight after painting.
1. Drill a 3/8" hole thru the counterbalance rib just aft of the
weight.
2. Hang the elevator from the hinges, wire or string works fine.
3. While holding the elevator level place a small paper cup over the
front of the counterbalance, and fill with lead shot (from shotgun
shells) until the elevator hangs level.
4. Place a short piece of clear 3/8" vinyl tube into the 3/8" hole, and
stick a funnel into the end of it.
5. Temporarily tape the elevator to the wire in a trailing edge up
position so that the lead shot will fall down to the front of the
counter balance.
6. Mix some epoxy resin and stir into your cup of lead shot.
7. Pour the resin/shot into the counter balance. You'll need a piece of
coat hangar wire or something to help shove it in.
8. Cap the hole with a 3/8" stainless snap plug (I found mine at Home
Depot).
9. Before the resin has time to cure, remove the tape holding the
trailing edge up. With the added weight of the resin the counterbalance
should hang slightly low. Tilt the nose up briefly so that the
resin/shot mixture slides aft until the elevator hang level. If you go
too far just lift the trailing edge to slide the shot forward.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim & Bev Cone" <jimnbev(at)olypen.com> |
| Subject: | Brake fluid leak |
I just put brake fluid in my RV-7A and even though I tightened the fittings as
tight as I could and still have them point in the right direction, they both leak.
They will not make another turn tighter. Does anyone on the list have a
suggestion to stop the leaks?
Jim Cone
3-peat Offender
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Isler" <jlisler(at)alltel.net> |
Where is the best place to install a fuel filter? Here are the options:
1) Between the tanks and the fuel selector valve. This would require 2
filters but would provide some back up if one clogged, assuming you had fuel
in the non-clogged tank.
2) Between the fuel selector and the electric fuel pump. Only one filter,
but not clog tolerant.
3) Downstream of the electric fuel pump. Still only one filter.
What kind of filter would you use? I am leaning toward one with AN flaired
fittings on both ends and a sintered bronze filter element of about 35
microns. Would a paper element be better? How about the see thru glass tube
type?
I don't intend to use the gasculator I purchased. There just isn't a decent
place to put it on an RV4.
Jerry Isler
RV4 N455J
Donalsonville,Ga
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Alternate Oil Cooler Location/Setup |
I've been farting around with my oil cooler setup on my RV-7. I recently
beefed up the installation behind cylinder #4, braced the oil cooler better,
and I have very high confidence in this setup for this particular plane &
engine & conditions. It works great.
But I was looking back through some old photos I took of my Mooney 201
several years ago. I bought the plane with a run-out engine (1962 hours
TTAF and TTE, good compression but burning oil) with the intent to replace
the engine right away. I got a Lycoming factory overhauled engine, and I
took some photos of the r&r process that my shop did at the time (before I
had a shadow of a clue).
Anyway, a couple of photos caught my eye this morning as I looked through
'em. On the '77 Mooney 201, the oil cooler attaches to a plenum/duct that
attaches to the firewall, and the duct butts up against the back of the #4
baffles with what looks like a silicone seal:
http://images.rvproject.com/m20j/images/engine/firewall.jpg
The baffles have a built-in duct of sorts that dumps into the oil cooler
plenum/duct:
http://images.rvproject.com/m20j/images/engine/baffle.jpg
The duct in the baffles also serves to have one continuous wall along the
back of the engine to simplify the baffle seals.
I figured this might be of interest to some folks out there who are
contemplating alternative oil cooler setups. I don't know if I recommend
this setup per se, since I usually had pretty hot oil temps in the summer
and had to at least partially open the cowl flaps to keep it in check a lot
of the time. But I think that may be partly due to the crappy oil cooler
that was being used. Who knows. I'm not endorsing this setup, just figured
somebody out there might find interest in it. Food for thought, at least.
On my current setup with the oil cooler right behind #4, things are workin'
great.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (160 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Brake fluid leak |
Buy a tube of Leak Lock at and air conditioning supply house and
your troubles are over. I fought the same problems. The stuff is less
than $3.00 and I will assure it works.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim & Bev Cone
Subject: RV-List: Brake fluid leak
I just put brake fluid in my RV-7A and even though I tightened the
fittings as tight as I could and still have them point in the right
direction, they both leak. They will not make another turn tighter.
Does anyone on the list have a suggestion to stop the leaks?
Jim Cone
3-peat Offender
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: NPT question |
Mickey
Generally, I run the tap about 3/4 of it's length into the hole. This
will allow about 4 to 5 threads of whatever AN fitting you are screwing in.
Some machinist books suggest 1/2 way in, but I find that this only allows
2-3 threads of the fitting to screw in. That's not enough in my book.
Charlie Kuss
PS Remember, you can always tap it deeper, but you can't "untap" it.
>
>Hi,
>
>How does one tap an NPT (American Standard Taper Pipe thread),
>since it is tapered? Anyone know of a good place to pick up
>a tap and die kit with all the "common" sizes we use on an RV?
>
>Thanks,
>Mickey
>
>--
>Mickey Coggins
>http://www.rv8.ch/
>#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Doug Gray ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Doug Gray
Subject: Plenum - Very good example & worth a look.
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/dgra1233@bigpond.net.au.07.24.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Transponder testing |
Fellow listers,
Is there any way to check your transponder on the ground? I had a conversation
with the controller at my airport today and he told me that I needed to be airborne....meanwhile,
this little birdie from flight school reminds me that I was
always instructed to leave my transponder in the 'Stand-By' mode till I took
the active so it wouldn't mess up the controllers.
Considering that I was a hundred yards away, I thought that he could have told
me to hit the ident button and be done with it...we have radar on the field too
but that shouldn't matter.
Am I nutso? Does one of us not really know how stuff works? I'll be more than
happy to take an education from this list.....
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Why an NPT tap/die? |
Hi guys.
Its funny how often a coincidental situation arises on this list. No one
can think of why Mickey Coggins might need an NPT tap/die. But I can.
I have had a mystery leak in my RV-4 (IO-360, CS prop) for three years. No
one could find the source. I always had drips on the right side of my
engine, towards the front and below the cooling air intake ramp. The
alternator always had oil on it as did the crankcase and front cylinder
base. Three mechanics and the builder tried everything from replacing the
crankshaft nose seal to replacing the oil return line on the cylinder, to
tightening the cylinder base nuts. Since the upper front of the engine was
dry, we could rule out the upper half from our search. Right?
WRONG, WRONG, WRONG.
Last week, I was in a Sherlock Holmes mode and decided to solve this
problem or die trying. Here's what happened:
With a magnifying glass, I spent 1/2 hour just looking at every nook and
cranny on the front right of the engine. Starting from the bottom. When I
got above the level of the air intake ramp, I kept on looking even though
the engine is always dry and clean in this zone. But ,then, I found a
droplet of oil.
The C/S prop oil line that runs from the prop governor to the prop runs
below the right hand cylinders and takes a turn vertically at the front of
crankcase. It runs up through a hole cut out of the air ramp, and connects
to the nose of the engine via a bronze elbow. The elbow has a standard
aircraft flare on the end that points down to the oil line, and it screws
into the crankcase with a NPT pipe thread. There is absolutely NO
misalignment permitted between the S/S oil line and the elbow. The Elbow
must be dead nuts vertical, while at the same time be tight enough to seal.
The area where the elbow screws into the engine is hidden by the oil line
and is out of view and out of touch. This is where I found a droplet of oil.
I loosened the flare connection to the elbow and found the elbow absolutely
loose to the touch. A sealant was used at the time the engine was built up.
This was probably done because your could not give an additional 360 degree
turn to the elbow without something snapping or threads stripping. This
sealant lost its capacity to make a good seal after the first 100 hrs. of
operation. At high RPMs the oil must have been leaking at a moderate rate,
but the huge volume of air entering the intake pushed this oil down the
outside of the oil line and through the hole in the air ramp to then
dispersed all over the lower half of the engine. This explains everything I
have found over the past few years. But how do I fix this. Well, I could
have purchased a few more elbows and find the one that might fit perfectly.
OR, I could chase the pipe threads a little bit at a time until the fitting
aligned and tight concurrently.
I guess I'm surprised that so many people responded similarly to G.V. But
then, I'm surprised that so many mechanics didn't find my oil leak problem.
Did I do the wrong thing by chasing the NPT threads to attain alignment?
Louis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Gill" <wgill10(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Transponder testing |
At a recent CFI refresher clinic, the manager of the Kansas City ARTCC
said that putting the transponder on standby while on the ground was no
longer necessary. He explained that the new terminal radars were immune
to ground transmissions.
Hope this helps.
Bill Gill
Kansas City, MO
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
Subject: RV-List: Transponder testing
Fellow listers,
Is there any way to check your transponder on the ground? I had a
conversation with the controller at my airport today and he told me that
I needed to be airborne....meanwhile, this little birdie from flight
school reminds me that I was always instructed to leave my transponder
in the 'Stand-By' mode till I took the active so it wouldn't mess up the
controllers.
Considering that I was a hundred yards away, I thought that he could
have told me to hit the ident button and be done with it...we have radar
on the field too but that shouldn't matter.
Am I nutso? Does one of us not really know how stuff works? I'll be
more than happy to take an education from this list.....
Thanks
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cammie Patch" <cammie(at)sunvalley.net> |
| Subject: | Transponder testing |
Here in Boise ATC has a brand new radar. It's so good, it picks up all
transponders on the surface of the airport, which really clutters up the
screen for the controllers. In addition, I've been flying around in a Cirrus
a lot lately, and it's annoying to here "traffic, traffic" in my ear while
in the pattern, just because someone is taxiing around with their
transponder on ALT. I'm sure everyone else with some sort of traffic alert
system gets the same results.
I teach my students to activate the transponder only when cleared for
takeoff.
Cammie
cfii
-----Original Message-----
At a recent CFI refresher clinic, the manager of the Kansas City ARTCC
said that putting the transponder on standby while on the ground was no
longer necessary. He explained that the new terminal radars were immune
to ground transmissions.
Fellow listers,
Is there any way to check your transponder on the ground? I had a
conversation with the controller at my airport today and he told me that
I needed to be airborne....meanwhile, this little birdie from flight
school reminds me that I was always instructed to leave my transponder
in the 'Stand-By' mode till I took the active so it wouldn't mess up the
controllers.
Considering that I was a hundred yards away, I thought that he could
have told me to hit the ident button and be done with it...we have radar
on the field too but that shouldn't matter.
Am I nutso? Does one of us not really know how stuff works? I'll be
more than happy to take an education from this list.....
Thanks
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: SW 10 Coil Oil Cooler for sale |
You are the only bidder on this oil cooler, do you still want it for $100?
I'll charge only the exact amount that UPS charges me to ship if you do.
Give me an address and I'll get it in the box and gone.
Albert
----- Original Message -----
From: "sportpilot" <sportypilot(at)stx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: SW 10 Coil Oil Cooler for sale
>
> I would like to bid on that item , 100.00 when I get back from cancun
> thursday ?
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net>
> To: ;
> Subject: RV-List: SW 10 Coil Oil Cooler for sale
>
>
> >
> > I have a yellow tagged Stewart Warner 10 coil oil cooler 10610A that I
> > bought from Pacific Oil Cooler but never used because it wouldn't fit on
> the
> > rear baffle without a lot more work than I wanted to do. I'll sell this
> for
> > the best offer.
> > Albert Gardner
> > RV-9A 872RV
> > Yuma, AZ
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "sportpilot" <sportypilot(at)stx.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: SW 10 Coil Oil Cooler for sale |
yeah send me a picture, those are hard to buy site unseen but I need one
soon enough.. hope it works on
my 0320, I live in a very hot climate South Texas (Corpus Christi) so I will
be needing full use of one
of those.. and I have the funds , so if its not all beat up then I suppose I
can mail out a check.. :)
or paypal whatever you like..
Danny Lawhon
14010 River Rock
Corpus Christi, Texas 78410
361-387-9535 home
361-232-1902 mobile phone
361-289-3161 Work Starting Days Monday.. ( I work shift work) 4 on 4 off
alternate nights and days each week
let me know..
Danny..
----- Original Message -----
From: "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: SW 10 Coil Oil Cooler for sale
>
> You are the only bidder on this oil cooler, do you still want it for $100?
> I'll charge only the exact amount that UPS charges me to ship if you do.
> Give me an address and I'll get it in the box and gone.
> Albert
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "sportpilot" <sportypilot(at)stx.rr.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: SW 10 Coil Oil Cooler for sale
>
>
> >
> > I would like to bid on that item , 100.00 when I get back from cancun
> > thursday ?
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net>
> > To: ;
> > Subject: RV-List: SW 10 Coil Oil Cooler for sale
> >
> >
>
> > >
> > > I have a yellow tagged Stewart Warner 10 coil oil cooler 10610A that I
> > > bought from Pacific Oil Cooler but never used because it wouldn't fit
on
> > the
> > > rear baffle without a lot more work than I wanted to do. I'll sell
this
> > for
> > > the best offer.
> > > Albert Gardner
> > > RV-9A 872RV
> > > Yuma, AZ
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "sportpilot" <sportypilot(at)stx.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: SW 10 Coil Oil Cooler for sale |
btw I did find this on the piper site for that serial number
http://www.pipertomahawk.com/adlist.htm
80-25-07 Stewart Warner Oil Cooler
Model # S/N to S/N
8406J 12558 16212
8406L 1496 1763
8432K 514 541
8432L 631 964
10568C 1105 1141
10578B 2212 2316
10599A 7369 9013
10610A 1815 1956
10614A 732 947
10622A 333 394
10634D 105 907
8446C 372 629
8437C 422 472
10641B 101 162
8493B 1269 1603
NOTE: The affected oil coolers were manufactured between July 1,1979, and
Nov 1,1980.
Oil coolers of the above model and serial numbers that have a date ink
stamped next to the nameplate have been
inspected by Stewart-Warner and found satisfactory for continued use.
Compliance is required prior to further flight. To prevent the loss of
engine oil.
1. If the oil cooler has accumulated 10 hours or less total time since
new,
prior to further
flight, replace with an airworthy oil cooler not of the above serial
numbers or with an airworthy oil cooler o
of the above serial numbers that have a date ink stamped next to the
oil
cooler name plate.
2. If the oil cooler has accumulated more than 10 hours time in service
since new, visually inspect the
cooler for oil leakage prior to further flight. Removal of the engine
cowling is not required if it
can be positively determined from inspection of areas adjacent to the
oil cooler that the oil cooler is not leaking.
A. If oil leakage is evident, prior to further flight, replace with an
airworthy oil cooler not of the
above serial numbers or with an airworthy oil cooler of the above serial
numbers that have a date ink stamped next
to the oil cooler name plate.
B. If oil leakage is not detected:
i. Fabricate and install the following placard on the aircraft instrument
panel in plain view
of the crew, using letters 1/8-inch high minimum:
"Visually check oil cooler for leakage prior to each flight.
If leakage is detected, refer to AD Number 80-25-07."
NOTE: The owner or operator may make and install this
placard and conduct the preflight check.
This check does not require a logbook entry. The inspection
procedures identified in the note following paragraph 2
also apply to this preflight check.
ii. If the oil cooler is replaced with an airworthy oil
cooler not of the above serial numbers
or with an airworthy oil cooler of the above serial numbers
that have a date ink stamped next to the oil cooler name
plate, the placard can be removed.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: SW 10 Coil Oil Cooler for sale
>
> You are the only bidder on this oil cooler, do you still want it for $100?
> I'll charge only the exact amount that UPS charges me to ship if you do.
> Give me an address and I'll get it in the box and gone.
> Albert
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "sportpilot" <sportypilot(at)stx.rr.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: SW 10 Coil Oil Cooler for sale
>
>
> >
> > I would like to bid on that item , 100.00 when I get back from cancun
> > thursday ?
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net>
> > To: ;
> > Subject: RV-List: SW 10 Coil Oil Cooler for sale
> >
> >
>
> > >
> > > I have a yellow tagged Stewart Warner 10 coil oil cooler 10610A that I
> > > bought from Pacific Oil Cooler but never used because it wouldn't fit
on
> > the
> > > rear baffle without a lot more work than I wanted to do. I'll sell
this
> > for
> > > the best offer.
> > > Albert Gardner
> > > RV-9A 872RV
> > > Yuma, AZ
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Transponder testing |
An instructor friend teachs students this little blurb after clearance for
takeoff,,,,,,,,,,,, "lights, camera, action". Which means - turn on the
strobes, take transponder off standby, and give 'er the throttle.
Jerry Calvert
RV6 N296JC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cammie Patch" <cammie(at)sunvalley.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Transponder testing
> **snip**
>> I teach my students to activate the transponder only when cleared for
> takeoff.
> Cammie
> cfii
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mark phipps <skydive80020(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Transponder testing |
Ralph, I am a controller at Denver Artcc, I am not sure what your airport radar
coverage is like, but in most instances all of our radar is line of site. Thats
why quite often in hilly or mountainous terrain we cant pick up all targets
till they reach certain altitudes. Your transponder anntenae is on the bottom
of your aircraft and will need close to an unimpeded line to our radar for us
to be able to interogate the data from your transponder and verify your equipment
is working accurately. Hope this helps.
Mark Phipps, N242RP, In the paint shop!
"Ralph E. Capen" wrote:
Fellow listers,
Is there any way to check your transponder on the ground? I had a conversation
with the controller at my airport today and he told me that I needed to be airborne....meanwhile,
this little birdie from flight school reminds me that I was
always instructed to leave my transponder in the 'Stand-By' mode till I took
the active so it wouldn't mess up the controllers.
Considering that I was a hundred yards away, I thought that he could have told
me to hit the ident button and be done with it...we have radar on the field too
but that shouldn't matter.
Am I nutso? Does one of us not really know how stuff works? I'll be more than happy
to take an education from this list.....
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronnie Brown" <romott(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Transponder testing |
>Is there any way to check your transponder on the ground?
Reply: Sure, the controller should be able to give you a readout from your
transponder while on the ground unless his equipment just won't pick up
from certain locations on the field.
>I had a conversation with the controller at my airport today and he told me
that I needed to be airborne.
Reply: He can do that too. A good way to check your static system accuracy
while at speed is to do a low pass over the runway (50 feet above the runway
is fine). Your altimeter and transponder should indicate approximately 50
feet above the field. By the way, altitude encoders feeding transponders
are only accurate to +/- 100 feet.
>this little birdie from flight school reminds me that I was always
instructed to leave my transponder in the 'Stand-By' mode till I took the
active so it wouldn't mess up the controllers.
Reply: A Designated Examiner who flies in and out of Atlanta's Hartsfield
busy airport said controllers there told him it was fine to leave the
transponder in mode C reporting altitude. They rather have it that way than
have the pilot forget to put it in mode C after take off. They will tell
you to put it in standby if it is a problem.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Firewall access through oil filler door |
Thanks to all who responded....between the postings, Van's FWF
documentation, and looking at a working example, I was able to get the
information that I need...
For future reference:
I am planning on placing the canon-plug connector on the firewall above the
crease line that points the top portion of the firewall forward at a slight
angle and outboard of the vertical rib on the passenger side. Essentially
inboard and higher than the placement of the brake fluid reservoir for
dual-brake applications. The canon-plug will be wired in to the fuse block
for the always hot bus and grounded to my grounding bus mounted on the
firewall.
I'll have pictures after I'm done if anyone wants them - zap me direct.
Ralph
RV6AQB Slider N822AR
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Fw: Firewall access through oil filler door
>
> Fellow listers,
>
> I'm thinking about mounting a battery charger connector on my firewall so
that I can keep my battery charged as my AM/FM radio draws some current to
keep the stations/clock....
>
> I'm trying to determine what area on the firewall can be reached through
the oil filler door so I can mount this thing before I close the forward top
skin and work on my canopy
>
> Does anyone have a general idea of what can be reached? I'm hoping for an
area above and to the right/left of where Van's firewall forward
instructions tell you to put the brake fluid reservior.
>
> Thanks,
> Ralph Capen
> RV6AQB - N822AR on the gear - engine's real soon
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternate Oil Cooler Location/Setup |
Dan,
Where does the exit air, after it leaves the oil cooler go? It appears to
blow right against the firewall.
Marty in Brentwood TN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net> |
Jerry,
I plan on using two fuel filters of 25 micron purchased from
http://pegasusautoracing.com/. One in each supply prior to the value, thus
protecting the valve and the pump. Chris Heitman on this list owns the
business and he has built a RV-9A, I believe.
Marty RV6-A Fiberglass stuff.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Transponder testing redux |
Thanks to all that responded to the initial post - I think that I understand the
part of the original posting regarding ATC, standby, and their ability to 'see'
me on the ground.
This still leaves me with a lack of knowledge of how to ensure that my transponder
is responding to interrogations correctly.
My airport is within the mode C veil so I'll technically need it even for first
flight (that's a ways off too but if I gotta get something fixed - now's the
time). Do I need to contact an avionics shop with portable test gear? Removing
the radio seems silly since I need to test my system not just the radio.
Any takers......
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Transponder sign off |
I have been flying my RV6 (34 hours) with a Becker
transponder which shows me what is being reported to ATC and it is
correct. I have also verified it with a check from an approach
controller. Since I am the repairman for this airplane can I sign off
this system or do I need to pay for a sign off? This sounds like a dumb
question but I have several contradictory answers from people that
should know.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Coldenhoff <rv9a_000(at)deru.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Transponder testing redux |
Ralph E. Capen wrote:
> This still leaves me with a lack of knowledge of how to ensure that my transponder
is responding to interrogations correctly.
> My airport is within the mode C veil so I'll technically need it even for first
flight (that's a ways off too but if I gotta get something fixed - now's the
time). Do I need to contact an avionics shop with portable test gear? Removing
the radio seems silly since I need to test my system not just the radio.
>
> Any takers......
If you need to fly the plane to an airfield with an appropriate
avionics shop, you can call ATC and ask for a waiver to operate
without Mode C for that purpose.
--
Tim Coldenhoff
#90338 - Finishing!
http://rv9a.deru.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Transponder sign off |
Sorry, good try. FAR 91 tells you exactly who must do your
encoder/transponder check nd how often it must be done (every two years).
I'm not in front of my regs at the moment or I would quate yuo but its in
there. Take a look.
Mike Robertson
>From: "J. R. Dial" <jrdial@hal-pc.org>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "RV-List"
>Subject: RV-List: Transponder sign off
>Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2004 09:28:08 -0500
>
>
> I have been flying my RV6 (34 hours) with a Becker
>transponder which shows me what is being reported to ATC and it is
>correct. I have also verified it with a check from an approach
>controller. Since I am the repairman for this airplane can I sign off
>this system or do I need to pay for a sign off? This sounds like a dumb
>question but I have several contradictory answers from people that
>should know.
>
>
Planning a family vacation? Check out the MSN Family Travel guide!
http://dollar.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Walker" <ron(at)walker.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Transponder sign off |
I have heard from more than one source that you do need an avionics guy in
there to give it the proper signoff and test. This ensures that the device
is reporting the correct altitudes to the radar interrogation.
I have the MicroAir T2000 which also has this feature of displaying what
altitude it is responding to ATC with, so I see how this may be seen as "not
needed" in our cases.
According to FAR 91.413 (c) ... "The tests and inspections specified (in
Appendix F, Part 43) in this section must be conducted by:
1) a "certified repair station" ... and the requirements of that station
are then listed. Our "repariman certificate" does not include a "radio
rating, ClassIII".
OR
3) The manufacturer of the aircraft on which the transponder was installed
....
It would seem to me that *I* am the manufacturer, so *I* have the ability to
sign this off.
Then have a look at what the tests involved ARE .. in AppxF, Part 43. I have
NO CLUE what any of that stuff means. Too bad it didn't say "Just look at
the transponder display screen to see if it is reporting altitude correctly
+-100 feet when corrected for 29.92".
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: "J. R. Dial" <jrdial@hal-pc.org>
Subject: RV-List: Transponder sign off
>
>
> I have been flying my RV6 (34 hours) with a Becker
> transponder which shows me what is being reported to ATC and it is
> correct. I have also verified it with a check from an approach
> controller. Since I am the repairman for this airplane can I sign off
> this system or do I need to pay for a sign off? This sounds like a dumb
> question but I have several contradictory answers from people that
> should know.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Transponder testing redux |
Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>
>Thanks to all that responded to the initial post - I think that I understand the
part of the original posting regarding ATC, standby, and their ability to 'see'
me on the ground.
>
>This still leaves me with a lack of knowledge of how to ensure that my transponder
is responding to interrogations correctly.
>My airport is within the mode C veil so I'll technically need it even for first
flight (that's a ways off too but if I gotta get something fixed - now's the
time). Do I need to contact an avionics shop with portable test gear? Removing
the radio seems silly since I need to test my system not just the radio.
>
>Any takers......
>
Ah, that little light bulb just went on. I may not be of much help, but
for arguments sake let's talk about transponder testing at the avionics
shop. As I understand it, (I could be wrong) even if you're not IFR
certified you still need a transponder check every two years. This can
be accomplished at the avionics shop OR the test can be done from the
controllers readout .... to verify the altitude codes. However, with a
new unit that may have sat on the shelf for two years or more while
you're building .... are you outside the two years check period??? I
dunno. Second thing is that I've not heard of any enforcement action
taken because of a transponder failure (Senator what's-his-face going to
washington recently would have been a good candidate!!!) so there's
really no problem there. I've flown into (and out of) class B space
with a broke transponder .... it was in ident mode all the time ......
and then quit altogether ...... the controller just informed me of the
problem and I went on my way. It's fixed. So, I'd worry about bent
tails and smiley faces ..... and have your local controller verify your
trnasponder on your first flight ... as long as you don't have any other
pressing problems. Even if it's not working correctly, it'll be a
non-event which can be saved for another less stressful time. Just MHO,
and I hope someone with real knowledge will chime in. Reading the FAR's
isn't on my list of ways to spend my time.
Linn
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Transponder sign off |
>
>I have heard from more than one source that you do need an avionics guy in
>there to give it the proper signoff and test. This ensures that the device
>is reporting the correct altitudes to the radar interrogation.
>
>I have the MicroAir T2000 which also has this feature of displaying what
>altitude it is responding to ATC with, so I see how this may be seen as "not
>needed" in our cases.
>
>According to FAR 91.413 (c) ... "The tests and inspections specified (in
>Appendix F, Part 43) in this section must be conducted by:
>
>1) a "certified repair station" ... and the requirements of that station
>are then listed. Our "repariman certificate" does not include a "radio
>rating, ClassIII".
>
>OR
>
>3) The manufacturer of the aircraft on which the transponder was installed
>....
>
>It would seem to me that *I* am the manufacturer, so *I* have the ability to
>sign this off.
>
>Then have a look at what the tests involved ARE .. in AppxF, Part 43. I have
>NO CLUE what any of that stuff means. Too bad it didn't say "Just look at
>the transponder display screen to see if it is reporting altitude correctly
>+-100 feet when corrected for 29.92".
>
>Ron
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "J. R. Dial" <jrdial@hal-pc.org>
>To: "RV-List"
>Subject: RV-List: Transponder sign off
>
Unfortunately, the tests that are required by FAR
91.411 are not possible to do without specialized
test equipment. They go way beyond just seeing
if the transponder's output agrees with the
altimeter.
If you want to fly IFR, FAR 91.411(a)(1) says:
Within the preceding 24 calendar months, each
static pressure system, each altimeter
instrument, and each automatic pressure altitude
reporting system has been tested and inspected
and found to comply with appendix E of part 43 of
this chapter;
FAR 43 Appendix E has a very detailed test of the
accuracy of the altimeter and encoder.
That means that both the altimeter and the
altitude encoder must be checked against a static
pressure test set to confirm that they are
accurate. It is not good enough to verify that
the altimeter and the encoder are saying the same
thing.
FAR 91.413 applies for VFR and IFR. FAR 91.413(a) says:
No persons may use an ATC transponder that is
specified in 91.215(a), 121.345(c), or
135.143(c) of this chapter unless, within the
preceding 24 calendar months, the ATC transponder
has been tested and inspected and found to comply
with appendix F of part 43 of this chapter.
FAR 43 Appendix F specifies a test of the radio
transmissions from the transponder, Radio Reply
Frequency, Reciever Sensitivity, etc. This test
requires specialized equipment and knowledge.
FAR 91.413(b) says:
Following any installation or maintenance on an
ATC transponder where data correspondence error
could be introduced, the integrated system has
been tested, inspected, and found to comply with
paragraph (c), appendix E, of part 43 of this
chapter.
This means that you must do the same accuracy
test as the IFR guys, after installation, or any
maintenance that could affect the accuracy of the
encoder. This would probably include any work on
the wiring between the encoder and the
transponder. Yes, a comparison of the altimeter
against the transponder's readout would meet the
intent of this check, if you only did wiring
work, but unfortunately you have to meet the
letter of the reg, not just the intent.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
Jerry,
I'll second Marty's suggestion. 5 of the local RV builders got together
and made a group purchase of the fuel filters made by Eze Flow and sold by
Pegasus. These are the filters recommended by AirFlow Performance for their
fuel injection systems.
Installing a filter in the area between each fuel tank and the fuselage
has several advantages.
#1 A clogged filter can be bypassed by switching fuel tanks. (Avoids
single point of failure)
#2 Fuel is filtered before it reaches your fuel selector valve and
electric pump. This prolongs the life of these parts.
#3 Servicing the filter is easier and doesn't cause fuel spillage in
the cockpit. Simply remove the wing intersection fairing for access.
#4 These filters are tapped 3/8" NPT at each end. This allows use of
standard AN fittings. It gives you the choice of using a straight
(AN816-6-6D) 45 degree (AN823-6-6D) or 90 degree angle (AN822-6-6D)
fittings. You have more flexibility in plumbing your filters, as you have
more options.
Charlie Kuss
>From: "Emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net>
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Filter
>Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2004 09:13:59 -0500
>Sender: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
>Jerry,
>I plan on using two fuel filters of 25 micron purchased from
>http://pegasusautoracing.com/. One in each supply prior to the value, thus
>protecting the valve and the pump. Chris Heitman on this list owns the
>business and he has built a RV-9A, I believe.
>Marty RV6-A Fiberglass stuff.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
Maybe RV's are different but, we've had nothing but problems with
filters upstream of the electric fuel pump in Glasairs. I have a real
problem with installing any device in the fuel system that doesn't have
some kind of automatic bypass. The big problem is that your engine sucks
the fuel from the tank. This means your most likely type of leak is
going to be air bubbles into your fuel line. Hard to find, symptoms are
engine stumble at high power settings. All cases of this in Glasairs
were cured by removal of the inline filters and relying on the
gasculator to do it's job.
I have the Andair Gas 500 gasculator, built in bypass, excellent
product.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie Kuss
Subject: Fwd: Re: RV-List: Fuel Filter
Jerry,
I'll second Marty's suggestion. 5 of the local RV builders got
together
and made a group purchase of the fuel filters made by Eze Flow and sold
by
Pegasus. These are the filters recommended by AirFlow Performance for
their
fuel injection systems.
Installing a filter in the area between each fuel tank and the
fuselage
has several advantages.
#1 A clogged filter can be bypassed by switching fuel tanks. (Avoids
single point of failure)
#2 Fuel is filtered before it reaches your fuel selector valve and
electric pump. This prolongs the life of these parts.
#3 Servicing the filter is easier and doesn't cause fuel spillage
in
the cockpit. Simply remove the wing intersection fairing for access.
#4 These filters are tapped 3/8" NPT at each end. This allows use
of
standard AN fittings. It gives you the choice of using a straight
(AN816-6-6D) 45 degree (AN823-6-6D) or 90 degree angle (AN822-6-6D)
fittings. You have more flexibility in plumbing your filters, as you
have
more options.
Charlie Kuss
>From: "Emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net>
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Filter
>Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2004 09:13:59 -0500
>Sender: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
>Jerry,
>I plan on using two fuel filters of 25 micron purchased from
>http://pegasusautoracing.com/. One in each supply prior to the value,
thus
>protecting the valve and the pump. Chris Heitman on this list owns the
>business and he has built a RV-9A, I believe.
>Marty RV6-A Fiberglass stuff.
>
>
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Hiers" <craig_rv4(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | voltage regulator |
0.2 FROM_HAS_ULINE_NUMS From: contains an underline and numbers/letters
Waaaaay back in 1997 I purchased a non-ajustable voltage regulator from
Van's. Now, all these years later the regulator has gone belly-up. Does
anyone remember what type of regulator Van's was selling back then( who made
it/what type of car it was for)? The only thing on the regulator itself is
"made in USA" and the #61751. I took it to the NAPA store, where the guy
behind the counter just stared at me like I was nuts. If you can't tell them
a year, make, and model they are worthless.
The damn thing just had to go out on a nice "flying weekend".
Craig Hiers
Tifton,GA.
RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: voltage regulator |
Craig Hiers wrote:
>
> Waaaaay back in 1997 I purchased a non-ajustable voltage regulator from
> Van's. Now, all these years later the regulator has gone belly-up. Does
> anyone remember what type of regulator Van's was selling back then( who made
> it/what type of car it was for)? The only thing on the regulator itself is
> "made in USA" and the #61751. I took it to the NAPA store, where the guy
> behind the counter just stared at me like I was nuts. If you can't tell them
> a year, make, and model they are worthless.
>
> The damn thing just had to go out on a nice "flying weekend".
>
> Craig Hiers
> Tifton,GA.
> RV-4
1975 Ford regulator works like a charm. :-)
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Hiers" <craig_rv4(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: voltage regulator |
>
> Craig Hiers wrote:
>
> >
> > Waaaaay back in 1997 I purchased a non-ajustable voltage regulator from
> > Van's. Now, all these years later the regulator has gone belly-up. Does
> > anyone remember what type of regulator Van's was selling back then( who
made
> > it/what type of car it was for)? The only thing on the regulator itself
is
> > "made in USA" and the #61751. I took it to the NAPA store, where the guy
> > behind the counter just stared at me like I was nuts. If you can't tell
them
> > a year, make, and model they are worthless.
> >
> > The damn thing just had to go out on a nice "flying weekend".
> >
> > Craig Hiers
> > Tifton,GA.
> > RV-4
>
>
> 1975 Ford regulator works like a charm. :-)
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
>
Sam
I was hoping to find the exact replacement so I could avoid having to drill
new holes and refit the firewall insulation (just being lazy).
Craig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
Bruce,
Do the Glasair guys running fuel injection have this same problem?
Airflow Performance places the fuel filter upstream (before) the electric
and mechanical fuel pumps in their system. I think this is a situation
where sloppy workmanship is the underlaying problem. Attention to detail
will prevent a possible air leak on the suction side of the system.
You are correct that this sort of problem is tough to find.
Charlie Kuss
>
>Maybe RV's are different but, we've had nothing but problems with
>filters upstream of the electric fuel pump in Glasairs. I have a real
>problem with installing any device in the fuel system that doesn't have
>some kind of automatic bypass. The big problem is that your engine sucks
>the fuel from the tank. This means your most likely type of leak is
>going to be air bubbles into your fuel line. Hard to find, symptoms are
>engine stumble at high power settings. All cases of this in Glasairs
>were cured by removal of the inline filters and relying on the
>gasculator to do it's job.
>
>I have the Andair Gas 500 gasculator, built in bypass, excellent
>product.
>
>Bruce
>www.glasair.org
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie Kuss
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Fwd: Re: RV-List: Fuel Filter
>
>
>Jerry,
> I'll second Marty's suggestion. 5 of the local RV builders got
>together
>and made a group purchase of the fuel filters made by Eze Flow and sold
>by
>Pegasus. These are the filters recommended by AirFlow Performance for
>their
>fuel injection systems.
> Installing a filter in the area between each fuel tank and the
>fuselage
>has several advantages.
>#1 A clogged filter can be bypassed by switching fuel tanks. (Avoids
>single point of failure)
>#2 Fuel is filtered before it reaches your fuel selector valve and
>electric pump. This prolongs the life of these parts.
>#3 Servicing the filter is easier and doesn't cause fuel spillage
>in
>the cockpit. Simply remove the wing intersection fairing for access.
>#4 These filters are tapped 3/8" NPT at each end. This allows use
>of
>standard AN fittings. It gives you the choice of using a straight
>(AN816-6-6D) 45 degree (AN823-6-6D) or 90 degree angle (AN822-6-6D)
>fittings. You have more flexibility in plumbing your filters, as you
>have
>more options.
>Charlie Kuss
>
> >From: "Emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net>
> >To:
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Filter
> >Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2004 09:13:59 -0500
> >Sender: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >
> >
> >Jerry,
> >I plan on using two fuel filters of 25 micron purchased from
> >http://pegasusautoracing.com/. One in each supply prior to the value,
>thus
> >protecting the valve and the pump. Chris Heitman on this list owns the
> >business and he has built a RV-9A, I believe.
> >Marty RV6-A Fiberglass stuff.
> >
> >
>
>
>=
>=
>=
>=
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
Yes, because of the higher fuel pressure also means a higher vacuum
upstream of the pump, those with FI are the most susceptible.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie Kuss
Subject: RE: Re: RV-List: Fuel Filter
Bruce,
Do the Glasair guys running fuel injection have this same problem?
Airflow Performance places the fuel filter upstream (before) the
electric
and mechanical fuel pumps in their system. I think this is a situation
where sloppy workmanship is the underlaying problem. Attention to detail
will prevent a possible air leak on the suction side of the system.
You are correct that this sort of problem is tough to find.
Charlie Kuss
>
>Maybe RV's are different but, we've had nothing but problems with
>filters upstream of the electric fuel pump in Glasairs. I have a real
>problem with installing any device in the fuel system that doesn't have
>some kind of automatic bypass. The big problem is that your engine
sucks
>the fuel from the tank. This means your most likely type of leak is
>going to be air bubbles into your fuel line. Hard to find, symptoms are
>engine stumble at high power settings. All cases of this in Glasairs
>were cured by removal of the inline filters and relying on the
>gasculator to do it's job.
>
>I have the Andair Gas 500 gasculator, built in bypass, excellent
>product.
>
>Bruce
>www.glasair.org
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie Kuss
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Fwd: Re: RV-List: Fuel Filter
>
>
>Jerry,
> I'll second Marty's suggestion. 5 of the local RV builders got
>together
>and made a group purchase of the fuel filters made by Eze Flow and sold
>by
>Pegasus. These are the filters recommended by AirFlow Performance for
>their
>fuel injection systems.
> Installing a filter in the area between each fuel tank and the
>fuselage
>has several advantages.
>#1 A clogged filter can be bypassed by switching fuel tanks. (Avoids
>single point of failure)
>#2 Fuel is filtered before it reaches your fuel selector valve and
>electric pump. This prolongs the life of these parts.
>#3 Servicing the filter is easier and doesn't cause fuel spillage
>in
>the cockpit. Simply remove the wing intersection fairing for access.
>#4 These filters are tapped 3/8" NPT at each end. This allows use
>of
>standard AN fittings. It gives you the choice of using a straight
>(AN816-6-6D) 45 degree (AN823-6-6D) or 90 degree angle (AN822-6-6D)
>fittings. You have more flexibility in plumbing your filters, as you
>have
>more options.
>Charlie Kuss
>
> >From: "Emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net>
> >To:
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Filter
> >Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2004 09:13:59 -0500
> >Sender: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >
> >
> >Jerry,
> >I plan on using two fuel filters of 25 micron purchased from
> >http://pegasusautoracing.com/. One in each supply prior to the
value,
>thus
> >protecting the valve and the pump. Chris Heitman on this list owns
the
> >business and he has built a RV-9A, I believe.
> >Marty RV6-A Fiberglass stuff.
> >
> >
>
>
>=
>=
>=
>=
>
>
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Transponder testing redux |
Ralph,
For the normal 2 year check, the transponder can be bench checked at an
avionics shop. However according to 91.413 (b), after installation where
"data correspondence error could be introduced", the "integrated
system" must be checked. That means to me that you can't fly until the
complete static system has been checked.
91.413 (c) (3) says that the manufacturer can do the inspection and
test but I'll bet that you'd have to prove that you're qualified and
have the properly calibrated test equipment.
Dave Bristol RV6 So Cal
EAA Technical Counselor and Flight Advisor
Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>
>Thanks to all that responded to the initial post - I think that I understand the
part of the original posting regarding ATC, standby, and their ability to 'see'
me on the ground.
>
>This still leaves me with a lack of knowledge of how to ensure that my transponder
is responding to interrogations correctly.
>My airport is within the mode C veil so I'll technically need it even for first
flight (that's a ways off too but if I gotta get something fixed - now's the
time). Do I need to contact an avionics shop with portable test gear? Removing
the radio seems silly since I need to test my system not just the radio.
>
>Any takers......
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | CHTs, EGTs, and Oil Temp |
>
>
> I continue to have high CHTs, especially on climbout.
> I went flying this morning with OAT about 80. At 3000' in
> a stabilized cruise with no leaning, I saw the following
> numbers for EGTs & CHTs:
> Cyl 1 1280 372
> Cyl 2 1269 365
> Cyl 3 1300 391
> Cyl 4 1295 361
>
> Oil temp was 195.
> Data taken at 2240 RPM.
>
> The EGTs seem low if anything and the oil temperature
> certainly isn't real hot. The CHTs just seem too high and
> cylinder 3 can easily climb to 430+ on climbout at which
> point I throttle back to stop the climb in temperature. I
> have a small baffle in front of cylinder 1 and cylinders 1 &
> 3 are very close during climbout despite the 19 degree
> difference in cruise. I built a plenum
> but never put the permatex around the baffle/engine line. I'm
> going to do that real soon. It seems like I should be
> getting 50 degrees cooler from my setup. Can the permatex
> make that much difference? Anybody have experience before
> and after using caulking on their baffling?
Doug, what exactly are you doing with regards to mixture? You only said
that you are not leaning...
Mixture is about the most important factor in controlling cylinder temps
(assuming baffling correct, etc.). I can run the temps up and down about
40 F degrees just by messing with mixture. Obviously, power settings vs
indicated airspeed vs OAT are huge also. That being said, there are
screwy things going on in the cooling air exit area on the 6A's. Have a
look at:
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/coolingmods.htm
I now climb up to altitude at full throttle, full mixture (yes, lots of
gas going in but in an RV it isn't for very long). I'll dial the prop
back to 2500 or so when the MAP has dropped to 26 or so inches. Some
power is lost with these extremely rich mixtures, but the engine will
really stay cool compared to being closer to peak power. I swiped these
methods from John Deakin's Avweb articles, and they really do work.
When I level off, I dial the prop down, and do an all at once mixture
pull until I feel power drop, then tweak it in using EGT.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 503 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Allen Fulmer" <afulmer(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Johansen Tip Tanks for RV7/7A |
Anyone tried these yet? $2,795 a pair for 12.7 gal. additional per side.
How about Jon's tip tanks for the 6? .Like them? Do it again?
Thanks,
Allen Fulmer
RV7 wings
N808AF reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: TVRVBG to Oshkosh |
Bobby Hester wrote:
>
> Well I got a call a earlier today that there was an RV6A at our airport
> awaiting better weather and that the pilot would like to see my RV if I
> was not busy. Hoped in the truck and zipped off to the airport.
>
> Kevin Belue was there with his beautiful RV6A he was on his way to
> Oshkosh, when he left John C. Tune in Nashville the sky was blue but by
> the time he got here the sky was closing in. We checked the weather on
> the terminal computer and it looked like it might be past us in an hour
> or so. Off we went to my hanger so Kevin could check out my RV7A. After
> a while we went back to the terminal and saw that the rain was all past
> us but the overcast was around 1300 and did not even start to clear up
> past Evansville, IN. Kevin made the decision to tie it down and head to
> a hotel. I helped him and then took him to a local hotel.
>
> He is safe and sound for the night and it looks like things should clear
> up tomarrow so he can countine on. I hope to hit the road Tuesday
> morning with a buddy for Oshkosh, hope to see some of you guys there :-)
Bobby, thanks for looking after our man Kevin! :-)
My brother and I plan to launch from DCU Tuesday morning so maybe we
will see you up the road. We'll stop at Watertown, WI to gas up for the
approach into OSH.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 399SB)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: what won't epoxy stick to? |
Paul Besing wrote:
>
>I don't like wax paper, becuase it tears and flakes. It's hard to get a
>true release. As others have said, duct tape works great. Be sure you put
>it on tight, and try not to have too many overlaps so you don't put many
>voides under the lay up.
>
>Another method when working with fiberglass pieces, drill holes and use
>clecos. This is assuming you are glassing together two already completed
>fiiberglass parts. You can fill the holes with filler when you take the
>clecos out. Just be sure you take the clecos out just before it is fully
>cured (the clecos will be kind of gooey when you take them out). Soak them
>in a bath of MEK and they'll be good as new.
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A Sold
>RV-10 Soon
>http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
>Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
>http://www.kitlog.com
>
Or put some oil or peroleum jelly on the cleco before assembly. Much
better than trying to clean them up after the fact.
Linn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Neal E Capt AU/PC <Neal.George(at)maxwell.af.mil> |
| Subject: | what won't epoxy stick to? |
My experiences with epoxy and waxed paper have been consistently bad.
It seems that if the wax gets into the epoxy, either by scratching or
melting (epoxy heats up as it cures), the epoxy will not cure properly, and
sometimes not at all.
Saran wrap works very well as a no-mess substrate.
Neal
RV-7 N8ZG (wings)
> Does wax paper release from dried up epoxy?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cammie Patch" <cammie(at)sunvalley.net> |
Has anyone considered the possibility of a titanium step?
Cammie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | re: Strobe Lights |
Darrell,
Whelen's public safety strobe power supplies are great for experimental
aircraft use. Do a search on my name and the word Whelen and you'll get
some hits.
My home field is right nextdoor to Whelen and is owned by whelen. I've had
several off the record conversations with Whelen people about this.
Some have written that public safety strobes don't have to be as visible as
far away in the day time. (Although the person who wrote that knows FAR
FAR more about aviation than I will ever know, he is wrong in this instance)
Whelen rates their power supplies in Joules. A Joule is a Joule is a Joule.
Another option is to investigate a power supply from another quality vendor.
Nova electronics. ( www.strobe.com ) Nova is just a few miles down the
road from Whelen and was started by ex-whelen employees. I have a Nova
power supply in my plane. (model EPS-40X)
It is a "ruggedized" verson of one of their power supplies. The entire unit
is potted in epoxy. Its completely water and vibration proof. It can drive
2 strobes with a variety of patterns. I believe I paid about $125 for it.
When I purchased it, I confirmed that it provided enough energy to the tubes
to be appropriate for aviation use.
It provides 34 Joules of energy to the tubes when used in an alternating
pattern.
This is identical to the energy provided with individual wing tip whelen
power supplies (A490ATSCF)
If you use the single Whelen power supply (A413AHDACF), this unit can
provide 42 Joules of power in alternating flash mode.
I hope this helps. Either way, a good Public safety power supply (either
Nova or Whelen) will work great in an aircraft.
By the way, have you ever been to Osh or SnF and seen the Whelen sponsored
airplane with all of the strobes all over it. That plane is powered by
several School Bus strobe power supplies.
Finally, some will say that non-aviation strobes are too "noisy". Have you
ever looked inside a modern Police car. They've got more radios than we do.
Power supplies, all of them, need to be quiet. Proper wiring and
grounding are what is needed for a quiet strobe installation. With any power
supply.
Don
Discover the best of the best at MSN Luxury Living. http://lexus.msn.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Power chart for IO-360A |
I've been on the road quite a bit lately, and I've had some time on
my hands in the evenings. I put together a power chart for the
IO-360A series engines. It has rpm and MP combinations for 75%, 65%
and 55% power, plus target fuel flows for best power and best
economy. All data is from the Lycoming Operator's Manual and checked
against power charts for Cessna 177RG and Beech Sierra 200 B24R (both
have IO-360-A1B6 engines).
The power chart is available one my web site at:
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
It's in the What's New block for now, on the right side of the page,
but it'll eventually slip off that page, and end up on the Links
page, under Engines.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Neal E Capt AU/PC <Neal.George(at)maxwell.af.mil> |
| Subject: | Counter Balance Weights |
Neil -
Before paint, my left elevator with electric trim needs a little more weight
than the supplied lead block provides. I mounted a nutplate across the
forward tooling hole in the ribs and used an assortment of fender washers on
a -3 bolt to balance it. I haven't decided yet whether to cast a lead chunk
to replace the washers.
Alternatively, someone (Gretz, maybe?) is making a kit to relocate the servo
and it's attendant weight to the fuse, to get the mass out of the elevator.
Neal
RV-7 N8ZG (wings)
________________________________________________________________________________
What's wrong the the cheaply price but complete looking nav/strobe kit sold in
ACS by Aeorflash (I think that's what it goes buy). Quite a bit less than Whelen
for the same setup (two seperate wing tip power supplies and integrated nav/white/strobe
wingtip lights)?
In a message dated 7/26/2004 10:54:32 AM Eastern Daylight Time, "Donald Mei"
writes:
>
>Darrell,
>
>Whelen's public safety strobe power supplies are great for experimental
>aircraft use. Do a search on my name and the word Whelen and you'll get
>some hits.
>
>My home field is right nextdoor to Whelen and is owned by whelen. I've had
>several off the record conversations with Whelen people about this.
>
>Some have written that public safety strobes don't have to be as visible as
>far away in the day time. (Although the person who wrote that knows FAR
>FAR more about aviation than I will ever know, he is wrong in this instance)
>
>Whelen rates their power supplies in Joules. A Joule is a Joule is a Joule.
>
>Another option is to investigate a power supply from another quality vendor.
> Nova electronics. ( www.strobe.com ) Nova is just a few miles down the
>road from Whelen and was started by ex-whelen employees. I have a Nova
>power supply in my plane. (model EPS-40X)
>
>It is a "ruggedized" verson of one of their power supplies. The entire unit
>is potted in epoxy. Its completely water and vibration proof. It can drive
>2 strobes with a variety of patterns. I believe I paid about $125 for it.
>When I purchased it, I confirmed that it provided enough energy to the tubes
>to be appropriate for aviation use.
>
>It provides 34 Joules of energy to the tubes when used in an alternating
>pattern.
>This is identical to the energy provided with individual wing tip whelen
>power supplies (A490ATSCF)
>
>If you use the single Whelen power supply (A413AHDACF), this unit can
>provide 42 Joules of power in alternating flash mode.
>
>I hope this helps. Either way, a good Public safety power supply (either
>Nova or Whelen) will work great in an aircraft.
>
>By the way, have you ever been to Osh or SnF and seen the Whelen sponsored
>airplane with all of the strobes all over it. That plane is powered by
>several School Bus strobe power supplies.
>
>Finally, some will say that non-aviation strobes are too "noisy". Have you
>ever looked inside a modern Police car. They've got more radios than we do.
> Power supplies, all of them, need to be quiet. Proper wiring and
>grounding are what is needed for a quiet strobe installation. With any power
>supply.
>
>
>Don
>
>Discover the best of the best at MSN Luxury Living. http://lexus.msn.com/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Re: re: Strobe Lights |
rv-8(at)yahoogroups.com, RV10(at)yahoogroups.com
I have contracted Nova (www.strobes.com) to make my power supplies... These
are not the automotive supplies they sell, they are new supplied designed
after their Whelen counterparts... They have the same or more output than
their Whelen counterparts, and are built using modern technology, not the
dated technology that Whelen and AeroFlash uses...
I currently only have the single centrally mounted power supply done and for
sale, but the individual power supplies are in developments as I write
this... I also have low profile strobe heads and installation kits...
My AVI-PAK power supply is $260, designed as a direct replacement for the
Whelen A-413A-HDA-CF-14, and is $110 cheaper than Van's price on the
Whelen...
I am working on direct replacements for the tail strobe/nav lamp from
Whelen, as well as the Whelen all-in-one position/strobe/nave unit that goes
out on the wingtip...
http://creativair.com/cva/
-Bill VonDane
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: re: Strobe Lights
Darrell,
Whelen's public safety strobe power supplies are great for experimental
aircraft use. Do a search on my name and the word Whelen and you'll get
some hits.
My home field is right nextdoor to Whelen and is owned by whelen. I've had
several off the record conversations with Whelen people about this.
Some have written that public safety strobes don't have to be as visible as
far away in the day time. (Although the person who wrote that knows FAR
FAR more about aviation than I will ever know, he is wrong in this instance)
Whelen rates their power supplies in Joules. A Joule is a Joule is a Joule.
Another option is to investigate a power supply from another quality vendor.
Nova electronics. ( www.strobe.com ) Nova is just a few miles down the
road from Whelen and was started by ex-whelen employees. I have a Nova
power supply in my plane. (model EPS-40X)
It is a "ruggedized" verson of one of their power supplies. The entire unit
is potted in epoxy. Its completely water and vibration proof. It can drive
2 strobes with a variety of patterns. I believe I paid about $125 for it.
When I purchased it, I confirmed that it provided enough energy to the tubes
to be appropriate for aviation use.
It provides 34 Joules of energy to the tubes when used in an alternating
pattern.
This is identical to the energy provided with individual wing tip whelen
power supplies (A490ATSCF)
If you use the single Whelen power supply (A413AHDACF), this unit can
provide 42 Joules of power in alternating flash mode.
I hope this helps. Either way, a good Public safety power supply (either
Nova or Whelen) will work great in an aircraft.
By the way, have you ever been to Osh or SnF and seen the Whelen sponsored
airplane with all of the strobes all over it. That plane is powered by
several School Bus strobe power supplies.
Finally, some will say that non-aviation strobes are too "noisy". Have you
ever looked inside a modern Police car. They've got more radios than we do.
Power supplies, all of them, need to be quiet. Proper wiring and
grounding are what is needed for a quiet strobe installation. With any power
supply.
Don
Discover the best of the best at MSN Luxury Living. http://lexus.msn.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Power chart for IO-360A |
> I've been on the road quite a bit lately, and I've had some time on
> my hands in the evenings. I put together a power chart for the
> IO-360A series engines. It has rpm and MP combinations for 75%, 65%
> and 55% power, plus target fuel flows for best power and best
> economy. All data is from the Lycoming Operator's Manual and checked
> against power charts for Cessna 177RG and Beech Sierra 200 B24R (both
> have IO-360-A1B6 engines).
Kevin,
A couple of years ago I had breakfast with Van and his brother Jerry and we
got to talking about power settings. I hypothosized that normal power charts
would not apply to RVs because the FAB intake system is more efficient than
a normal aircraft and in fact provides a minor bump in MAP relative to
ambient at any given altitude. They agreed and we concluded that using the
"rule of 48" system was probably a better method of estimating power. Of
course this wouldn't apply to anyone using a snorkel intake or anything
other than the FAB or some other ram air system.
Thoughts?
Randy Lervold
www.rv-8.com
www.rv-3.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rod Kimmell" <rod.kimmell(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | For Sale - RV6 Wing and Tail |
RV6A empenage and wing kits for sale. I'm moving and can't take the project
with me this time.
Wing kit has Phlogiston spars. Left wing skeleton is assembled. Tail section
is mostly complete.
This kit is mostly pre-punched.
All of the wing skins are prepunched from Vans except the top skin, where I
opted for a single one piece skins.
All of the small wing parts are totally finished. They are CNC machined,
punched and anodized. The small parts were purchased from Bernard Aircraft
when he was selling a fast build option prior to Van coming out with a full
pre-punched kit. The ribs are not pre-punched.
Price: $1800 Buyer pays all shipping.
Location: Portland Oregon Area
Please respond off-list to: rod.kimmell(at)comcast.net
Rod Kimmell
503 332-7438 mobile
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: what won't epoxy stick to? |
In a message dated 7/25/04 6:27:28 PM Pacific Daylight Time, RV8ter(at)aol.com
writes:
<< Does wax paper release from dried up epoxy?
How about electrical tape?
>>
Yes.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, final assembly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Walker" <ron(at)walker.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Power chart for IO-360A |
> They agreed and we concluded that using the
> "rule of 48" system was probably a better method of estimating power.
What's the "rule of 48" ?
Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Aeroflash strobes |
RV8ter(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> What's wrong the the cheaply price but complete looking nav/strobe
> kit sold in ACS by Aeorflash (I think that's what it goes buy).
> Quite a bit less than Whelen for the same setup (two seperate wing
> tip power supplies and integrated nav/white/strobe wingtip lights)?
Absolutely nothing. The Aeroflash strobes are in use on many RVs
(including mine) and are indeed reasonably priced.
There has been MUCH discussion on the list over the years (check the
archives!) as to whether or not they are powerful enough to meet current
experimental regs; those who think they aren't are firm in their
position, and those who think it doesn't matter that much are flying
them on their airplanes after successfully passing the DAR routine. :-)
Any strobe system is visible at night, and in my experience with a bunch
of flying with other RVs, some with Whelen systems and some with
AeroFlash, during daylight hours you will see the profile of an
approaching plane much sooner than you will notice the strobes.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Power chart for IO-360A |
>
>> I've been on the road quite a bit lately, and I've had some time on
>> my hands in the evenings. I put together a power chart for the
>> IO-360A series engines. It has rpm and MP combinations for 75%, 65%
>> and 55% power, plus target fuel flows for best power and best
>> economy. All data is from the Lycoming Operator's Manual and checked
>> against power charts for Cessna 177RG and Beech Sierra 200 B24R (both
>> have IO-360-A1B6 engines).
>
>
>Kevin,
>A couple of years ago I had breakfast with Van and his brother Jerry and we
>got to talking about power settings. I hypothosized that normal power charts
>would not apply to RVs because the FAB intake system is more efficient than
>a normal aircraft and in fact provides a minor bump in MAP relative to
>ambient at any given altitude. They agreed and we concluded that using the
>"rule of 48" system was probably a better method of estimating power. Of
>course this wouldn't apply to anyone using a snorkel intake or anything
>other than the FAB or some other ram air system.
>
>Thoughts?
>
>Randy Lervold
Load of crap, if you ask me. Yes, a more efficient intake means that
there is more MP available. So, you would be able to get a
particular percent power at a slightly higher altitude, than if you
had a less efficient intake. But, the Lycoming power chart uses
inputs of rpm, MP, altitude and temperature. So it is quite capable
of dealing with intakes of different efficiencies. It is just a pain
in the butt to use Lycoming's power chart. Which is why I converted
it into a spreadsheet, and why I've made up my own tabular power
chart.
With a given MP, the engine breathes better if you increase the
altitude. The lower pressure at the exhaust ports helps it scavenge
better, so it makes more power. The rule of 48 is not that
inaccurate, as it doesn't take the effect of altitude into account.
I just fired a few numbers into my IO-360 power spreadsheet (because
it was more interesting than sanding fibreglas, which is what I
really should be doing this afternoon). The rule of 48 isn't too far
off the mark at altitude (i.e. near the highest altitude at which you
can reasonably expect to get a given percent power). It is quite
inaccurate at lower altitudes. For example, using 48 (hundreds value
of RPM, plus MP = 48), I get percent powers that range from 68% to
74%. 45 gives me between 54% and 65%, and 42 gives me between 45%
and 55%. The rule is worst at sea level, and gets better as the
altitude increases.
The rule of 48 is not very good. It is about as accurate as saying
that on average, the sun's position is in the south. So if you head
for the sun you'll be going south. We wouldn't propose that as a
means of navigation, and we shouldn't propose the rule of 48 as a
substitute for a power setting chart.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Power chart for IO-360A |
> > They agreed and we concluded that using the
> > "rule of 48" system was probably a better method of estimating power.
>
> What's the "rule of 48" ?
Take your manifold pressure (in inches) and your rpm (in hundreds of rpm)
and add them together. 48, as in 24" of MAP, and 24(00) rpm equals 75%
power. Then for every 3 the sum drops or increases you lose/gain 10% power.
I created a set of tables which I printed and laminated for cockpit use...
http://www.rv-8.com/Downloads/N558RL-CockpitPowerChart.doc
Randy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Milner" <tldrgred(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: TVRVBG to Oshkosh |
Hartford has car gas for$1.99. 100ll might be $2.60. They have a credit card
actuated gas pump (24-7) and indoor men`s and ladies rooms if youd need to
wash up. Hartford is about 20mi. NW of Waukesha (UES)
Red Milner
RV-4
based@UES
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: TVRVBG to Oshkosh
>
> Bobby Hester wrote:
>
> >
> > Well I got a call a earlier today that there was an RV6A at our airport
> > awaiting better weather and that the pilot would like to see my RV if I
> > was not busy. Hoped in the truck and zipped off to the airport.
> >
> > Kevin Belue was there with his beautiful RV6A he was on his way to
> > Oshkosh, when he left John C. Tune in Nashville the sky was blue but by
> > the time he got here the sky was closing in. We checked the weather on
> > the terminal computer and it looked like it might be past us in an hour
> > or so. Off we went to my hanger so Kevin could check out my RV7A. After
> > a while we went back to the terminal and saw that the rain was all past
> > us but the overcast was around 1300 and did not even start to clear up
> > past Evansville, IN. Kevin made the decision to tie it down and head to
> > a hotel. I helped him and then took him to a local hotel.
> >
> > He is safe and sound for the night and it looks like things should clear
> > up tomarrow so he can countine on. I hope to hit the road Tuesday
> > morning with a buddy for Oshkosh, hope to see some of you guys there :-)
>
>
> Bobby, thanks for looking after our man Kevin! :-)
>
> My brother and I plan to launch from DCU Tuesday morning so maybe we
> will see you up the road. We'll stop at Watertown, WI to gas up for the
> approach into OSH.
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 399SB)
>
>
> _____________________________________________________
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John <jleclercq(at)charter.net> |
"rv9-list(at)matronics.com"
| Subject: | RV-9 Empanage Kit is Sold |
I am very sorry but the RV-9 Empenage Kit is Sold and most likely the
tools as well. I am sorry if I have not gotten to all the responses to
my post but I did not expect to recieve so many replies. This news group
is really a good one for everyone. Thanks to all for the help.
Sincerely, John L.
Another physically aging person...sadly parting from 90599
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Power chart for IO-360A |
> Load of crap, if you ask me. Yes, a more efficient intake means that
> there is more MP available. So, you would be able to get a
> particular percent power at a slightly higher altitude, than if you
> had a less efficient intake. But, the Lycoming power chart uses
> inputs of rpm, MP, altitude and temperature. So it is quite capable
> of dealing with intakes of different efficiencies. It is just a pain
> in the butt to use Lycoming's power chart. Which is why I converted
> it into a spreadsheet, and why I've made up my own tabular power
> chart.
>
> With a given MP, the engine breathes better if you increase the
> altitude. The lower pressure at the exhaust ports helps it scavenge
> better, so it makes more power. The rule of 48 is not that
> inaccurate, as it doesn't take the effect of altitude into account.
>
> I just fired a few numbers into my IO-360 power spreadsheet (because
> it was more interesting than sanding fibreglas, which is what I
> really should be doing this afternoon). The rule of 48 isn't too far
> off the mark at altitude (i.e. near the highest altitude at which you
> can reasonably expect to get a given percent power). It is quite
> inaccurate at lower altitudes. For example, using 48 (hundreds value
> of RPM, plus MP = 48), I get percent powers that range from 68% to
> 74%. 45 gives me between 54% and 65%, and 42 gives me between 45%
> and 55%. The rule is worst at sea level, and gets better as the
> altitude increases.
>
> The rule of 48 is not very good. It is about as accurate as saying
> that on average, the sun's position is in the south. So if you head
> for the sun you'll be going south. We wouldn't propose that as a
> means of navigation, and we shouldn't propose the rule of 48 as a
> substitute for a power setting chart.
Ok, thanks for setting us straight Kevin. Now you can go back to sanding
fiberglass... ;-)
Randy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Milner" <tldrgred(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | skychicken lands on taxi-way OSH |
Sunday a 172 landed on the taxi way left of rwy 36. Orange vests ran for cover.
100LL is $2.49 delivered at OSH.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Holland" <hollandm(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Blast tubes - Necessary or not? |
I'm working on baffles at the moment. O-320 D2A, 60amp vans alternator, gascolator,
one mag, one electronic setup.
Vans plans have call outs for:
1) Alternator
2) Mag
3) Gascolator
How necessary are any of these?
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Blast tubes - Necessary or not? |
Mike,
We installed blast tubes for the Alt, fuel pump and mag. Took Van's and
other's advice - cheap insurance. We picked up some used blast tubes from a
piper baffle set up.
Good Building - it's really worthit !!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (300 +) hours
>From: "Mike Holland" <hollandm(at)pacbell.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Blast tubes - Necessary or not?
>Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2004 18:54:42 -0700
>
>
>I'm working on baffles at the moment. O-320 D2A, 60amp vans alternator,
>gascolator, one mag, one electronic setup.
>
>Vans plans have call outs for:
>
>1) Alternator
>
>2) Mag
>
>3) Gascolator
>
>How necessary are any of these?
>
>Thanks
>
>
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ammeter <jammeter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Blast tubes - Necessary or not? |
>
>I'm working on baffles at the moment. O-320 D2A, 60amp vans alternator, gascolator,
one mag, one electronic setup.
>
>Vans plans have call outs for:
>
>1) Alternator
>
>2) Mag
>
>3) Gascolator
>
>How necessary are any of these?
>
>Thanks
>
>
I didn't do any of these and had no problems with an E2A 150
HP engine in an RV-6 in the Pacific Northwest...
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Blast tubes - Necessary or not? |
I think it is a good idea to install the cooling blast tubes. Not a big job
to do them. Vans sent me a couple of tubes. Not sure which kit it came
in -- might of been the FWF. I will attach tube thru/to the baffle using
two nuts and lock washer holding a bent brass rod inside of the tube so it
points to the alternator, mag, or whatever. Somebody has a picture of this
somewhere that I got the idea from. It works great. It will prolong the
useful life of your components by reducing temperature. It does rob a bit
of cooling air that would otherwise be used for oil and cylinder head
cooling. But Vans is the designer. He thought it important enough to
include the cooling tubes in his design. I figure I should use the design I
paid for and he probably made the inlets big enough to do that AND cool the
rest of the engine. What do you thinnk??
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
The sincerest satisfactions in life come in doing and not dodging duty; in
meeting and solving problems, in facing facts, in being a dependable person.
- Richard L. Evans
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Ammeter" <jammeter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Blast tubes - Necessary or not?
>
>
> >
> >I'm working on baffles at the moment. O-320 D2A, 60amp vans alternator,
gascolator, one mag, one electronic setup.
> >
> >Vans plans have call outs for:
> >
> >1) Alternator
> >
> >2) Mag
> >
> >3) Gascolator
> >
> >How necessary are any of these?
> >
> >Thanks
> >
> >
>
> I didn't do any of these and had no problems with an E2A 150
> HP engine in an RV-6 in the Pacific Northwest...
>
> John
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Sneed <n242ds(at)cox.net> |
I am in North West florida and lately we have had hot 87-94 degree very
humid days. I have noticed that if I do a hot start and take off from
an airport with an OAT of 86 degrees or more I am seeing in the climb
the following data:
climb (hot 85 degree day) Climb only went to 2,500
RF 380-395
LF 395-405
RB 405-445
LB 365-380
cruise (6000 feet 72-75 OAT)
RF 400
LF 410
RB 425
LB 370
I checked the probes, they are very accurate.
At about 2000 feet I start seeing 445 on the EIS at this point I level
off and fly for a while to cool the engine (I climb at 140 mph). This
is very aggregating because ATC does not like to see me stop climbing,
I am sweating my but off and my passenger is pale white watching the
birds and television towers go by. I understand that with a 90 degree
OAT it is hard to cool an engine but are these numbers correct? Is this
normal? My oil cooler is behind #4 and oil temps never bust 225 they
are around 195 in cruise. I have experimented with opening the baffling
sealing the cowl seal ect... The only thing I have not done is make the
air exit hole bigger in the bottom of the cowl. I think redline is 475
I wonder if it is better to just climb until I hit 475 and level off. I
am also not leaning on these hot days which I think is bad for carbon
buildup and bad on my wallet. Any help would be great.
Has anyone noticed a big difference enlarging the air exit hole at the
bottom of the cowl where the exhaust exits the bottom cowl?
RV-6
o-360 with airflow performance fuel injection
9.1 pistons
Thanks again,
Jason
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Danny Lawhon <dlawhon(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | RV9A wing tip pictures |
Trying to figure out how the wing tips get connected
using 913 & 914 brackets anyone have picture of
when they were doing that , I am building the
landing lights (wing tip type) and running wire
ect.. wanted to get a heads up before I mess
something up.. its a RV9
Danny RV9A WINGS
__________________________________
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Blast tubes - Necessary or not? |
0.2 FROM_HAS_ULINE_NUMS From: contains an underline and numbers/letters
The answer is not black and white. Increased heat kills (reduces the life
of) electronics and mechanisms. The closer you are to warm lattitudes, the
more you'll need this - generally speaking.
The only one I'd question would be the gascolator. When I've seen pressure
problems in the fuel system due to heat, it's been on the ground on a hot
day with a hot engine and little airflow through the cowl. Blast tube
wouldn't help much in this case, IMO.
I have a tube on the alt. Had one previously on the mags when I had Bendix
- need to reinstall one on my new Slicks. Nothing on the fuel components.
>1) Alternator
>
>2) Mag
>
>3) Gascolator
>
>How necessary are any of these?
Bryan Jones -8 640 hrs
www.LoneStarSquadron.com
Houston, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "steve blackwell" <n10557(at)hotmail.com> |
(blue shop towels - not paper towels)
After much testing over the years - I use blue shop towels.
They don't use a cellulose binder but rather a latex binder
and have never scratched my aircraft or sunglasses.
We buy them in a pack of 12 rolls at CostCo.
I also started with pledge but long ago switched to plexus.
It will somehow clean and polish better that anything else I have tried.
>From: linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Pledge?
>Date: Tue, 29 Jun 2004 00:56:36 -0400
>
>
>David Burton wrote:
>
> >
> >Is there anything you like using other then paper towels to clean your
> >canopy?
> >
>Never, ever, use paper towels to clean your windshield! It's a tree!!!
>Baby diapers work very well ..... use 'em and wash 'em. Any soft cloth
>will be OK for your windshield.
>Linn
>
> > I'd like to find something less likely to scratch and disposable so
> >I can pitch it after one use...
> >
>Well, the baby diapers aren't really disposable ..... but if it's
>disposable, it's probably rougher than a cob.
>
> >
> >Thanks!
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "linn walters" <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com>
> >To:
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Pledge?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>
> >>JusCash(at)aol.com wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>>
> >>>Maybe an "old wives tale," I was told years ago not to use the lemon
> >>>
> >>>
> >version
> >
> >
> >>>because of some reaction with the plastic. Have been using the regular
> >>>
> >>>
> >for 20
> >
> >
> >>>years with no problem.
> >>>
> >>>Cash Copeland
> >>>RV-6 150hrs and counting
> >>>Hayward, Ca
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>You don't want to use anything with ammonia in it. Like Windex etc.
> >>Haven't heard anything against the 'lemon' .... which may nt be real
> >>anyway!!!
> >>Linn
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>>In a message dated 6/28/2004 6:38:06 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> >>>Larry(at)bowenaero.com writes:
> >>>
> >>>Is lemon pledge still the favorite cleaner for the canopy?
> >>>
> >>>-
> >>>Larry Bowen
> >>>Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> >>>http://BowenAero.com
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Jurotich <mjurotich(at)hst.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: Cylinder Head temps |
Do an archive search on casting flash. Read the first hit carefully, then
examine your cylinders for casting flash. You might be surprised to find
your baffling is fine and your cylinders need work.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
What is a popular cleaner for the rest of the plane? Prop and leading
edges, etc....
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: steve blackwell [mailto:n10557(at)hotmail.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, July 27, 2004 10:50 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Pledge?
>
>
>
> (blue shop towels - not paper towels)
>
> After much testing over the years - I use blue shop towels.
> They don't use a cellulose binder but rather a latex binder
> and have never scratched my aircraft or sunglasses. We buy
> them in a pack of 12 rolls at CostCo. I also started with
> pledge but long ago switched to plexus. It will somehow clean
> and polish better that anything else I have tried.
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi Group
Well, This is your official notification of my news today. My RV4, Kit #656,
N120PL took it's first flight and all things worked well. As near as I could
tell anyway. Talk about half scared and half nervous. Glad the first flight
is over and we got it up and down successfully. It was just a 20 minute ride
and I stayed over the airport (3CM) in case the engine quite or something
went wrong. Can't wait to do it again and check more of the systems out. Enjoyed
flying with Mike Seager in Three Rivers, Michigan last week and am sure glad
I waited to get his transition training! Thanks to Van's for building
awesome kits! And to all the folks that answered my questions along the way.
Would have been tough without all the knowledge that these RV group members have
helped me with. Thanks again!
Pat Long
_PGLong(at)aol.com_ (mailto:PGLong(at)aol.com)
N120PL
RV-4
Bay City, Michigan
3CM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts(at)yahoo.com> |
I always use old bathroom towels. And sometimes some not so old bathroom towels.
Nice and soft on the canopy.
blackwell"
(blue shop towels - not paper towels)
After much testing over the years - I use blue shop towels.
They don't use a cellulose binder but rather a latex binder
and have never scratched my aircraft or sunglasses.
We buy them in a pack of 12 rolls at CostCo.
I also started with pledge but long ago switched to plexus.
It will somehow clean and polish better that anything else I have tried.
>From: linn walters
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Pledge?
>Date: Tue, 29 Jun 2004 00:56:36 -0400
>
>
>David Burton wrote:
>
> >
> >Is there anything you like using other then paper towels to clean your
> >canopy?
> >
>Never, ever, use paper towels to clean your windshield! It's a tree!!!
>Baby diapers work very well ..... use 'em and wash 'em. Any soft cloth
>will be OK for your windshield.
>Linn
>
> > I'd like to find something less likely to scratch and disposable so
> >I can pitch it after one use...
> >
>Well, the baby diapers aren't really disposable ..... but if it's
>disposable, it's probably rougher than a cob.
>
> >
> >Thanks!
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "linn walters"
> >To:
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Pledge?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>
> >>JusCash(at)aol.com wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>>
> >>>Maybe an "old wives tale," I was told years ago not to use the lemon
> >>>
> >>>
> >version
> >
> >
> >>>because of some reaction with the plastic. Have been using the regular
> >>>
> >>>
> >for 20
> >
> >
> >>>years with no problem.
> >>>
> >>>Cash Copeland
> >>>RV-6 150hrs and counting
> >>>Hayward, Ca
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>You don't want to use anything with ammonia in it. Like Windex etc.
> >>Haven't heard anything against the 'lemon' .... which may nt be real
> >>anyway!!!
> >>Linn
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>>In a message dated 6/28/2004 6:38:06 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> >>>Larry(at)bowenaero.com writes:
> >>>
> >>>Is lemon pledge still the favorite cleaner for the canopy?
> >>>
> >>>-
> >>>Larry Bowen
> >>>Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> >>>http://BowenAero.com
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George P. Tyler" <gptyler(at)metrocast.net> |
Since I don't have water available at my hangar, my plane has never been
cleaned with anything other than Fantastic, I buy it in a concentrated form.
It seems to work great for me.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Pledge?
>
> What is a popular cleaner for the rest of the plane? Prop and leading
> edges, etc....
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: steve blackwell [mailto:n10557(at)hotmail.com]
> > Sent: Tuesday, July 27, 2004 10:50 AM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Pledge?
> >
> >
> >
> > (blue shop towels - not paper towels)
> >
> > After much testing over the years - I use blue shop towels.
> > They don't use a cellulose binder but rather a latex binder
> > and have never scratched my aircraft or sunglasses. We buy
> > them in a pack of 12 rolls at CostCo. I also started with
> > pledge but long ago switched to plexus. It will somehow clean
> > and polish better that anything else I have tried.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
>
>What is a popular cleaner for the rest of the plane? Prop and leading
>edges, etc....
>
>-
>Larry Bowen
>Larry(at)BowenAero.com
MORE PLEDGE! I must have the freshest smelling RV in the state. I use
Simple Green on the belly to get rid of the breather hose splooge.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51 tailcone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
| Subject: | CHT temperatures |
My O-320 has similar issues. #3 hits 450 in climb, 390 in cruise. I cleaned
the flashing around the cylinders(can only reach one side of each cyl
without taking off the baffels) and have not had the chance to determine
precisely what effect it had but it looks like about 10~15 degree drop. I'll
report as soon as I can verify.
John Furey
RV6A O-320 Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Hooker Harness Seat Belts |
From time to time, on this list as well as others, Hooker has received bad press
about long delays for seat belt orders. My "first flight" being a few months
away, I decided to go ahead and order my belts from Hooker so I would have them
in "due time". Long story short, I ordered them on 7/23 and to my surprise
they were delivered today!
They are truly a work of art. Hooker did a great job on them and with the 4 day
service, I don't think they can be beat!
Just wanted to pass this along to those of you needing seat belts. "Give Hooker
a Look"!
Tommy Walker
Ridgetop, TN
6A, Finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leland <Federigo(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Painting the Dynon pitot tube |
I would like to paint or anodize (or at least Alodyne) an unheated Dynon
pitot tube but am a little afraid to take it apart. There is a hex-head
screw on the bottom and the nose looks like it might screw off, but
portions seems to be potted with RTV. Can anyone on this list tell me
how they finished their probe?
Leland in Pleasanton, California
gettin' close to the end with an RV9AQB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: CHT tempatures |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jason Sneed" <n242ds(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV-List: CHT tempatures
>
> I am in North West florida and lately we have had hot 87-94 degree very
> humid days. I have noticed that if I do a hot start and take off from
> an airport with an OAT of 86 degrees or more I am seeing in the climb
> the following data:
>
> climb (hot 85 degree day) Climb only went to 2,500
> RF 380-395
> LF 395-405
> RB 405-445
> LB 365-380
>
> cruise (6000 feet 72-75 OAT)
> RF 400
> LF 410
> RB 425
> LB 370
>
> I checked the probes, they are very accurate.
>
> At about 2000 feet I start seeing 445 on the EIS at this point I level
> off and fly for a while to cool the engine (I climb at 140 mph). This
> is very aggregating because ATC does not like to see me stop climbing,
> I am sweating my but off and my passenger is pale white watching the
> birds and television towers go by. I understand that with a 90 degree
> OAT it is hard to cool an engine but are these numbers correct? Is this
> normal? My oil cooler is behind #4 and oil temps never bust 225 they
> are around 195 in cruise. I have experimented with opening the baffling
> sealing the cowl seal ect... The only thing I have not done is make the
> air exit hole bigger in the bottom of the cowl. I think redline is 475
> I wonder if it is better to just climb until I hit 475 and level off. I
> am also not leaning on these hot days which I think is bad for carbon
> buildup and bad on my wallet. Any help would be great.
>
> Has anyone noticed a big difference enlarging the air exit hole at the
> bottom of the cowl where the exhaust exits the bottom cowl?
>
> RV-6
> o-360 with airflow performance fuel injection
> 9.1 pistons
>
>
> Thanks again,
> Jason
>
Your post brings to mind many questions:
1) What is your cruise power setting? You didn't give it.
2) Is the mixture set correctly? You should see a 25-50 rpm increase
initially as you pull the mixture from full rich to lean while the aircraft
idles. Otherwise, the mixture is too lean.
3) Have you checked the timing on the engine?
4) Is the CHT gauge accurate? The senders can be good, but the gauge could
be the problem.
5) How many hours on the engine?
I'd worry about the overall high temps first, then use a cylinder blocker on
the #1 (right front) cylinder head to balance out the temperatures once you
get the overall problem solved.
My guess is that there is something unique about your installation that is
causing your CHT problem.
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | YonderRDC(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV-List Digest: 28 Msgs - 07/26/04 |
I will pick up my -8 kit in AUG from Vans, and wondered if JT(?) would give
me a call or E-mail to discuss builders risk insurance for the kit while
building and perhapps also for the trip home from Vans on a trailer....JT???? or
if
anyone has a better idea???? David (at)......Yonderrdc@aol.com or cell is
252-350-2798. H is 360-825-6995 Thanks all......David
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Pat,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: PGLong(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: Rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: First flight
>Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2004 13:16:59 EDT
>
>
>Hi Group
>
>Well, This is your official notification of my news today. My RV4, Kit
>#656,
>N120PL took it's first flight and all things worked well. As near as I
>could
>tell anyway. Talk about half scared and half nervous. Glad the first
>flight
>is over and we got it up and down successfully. It was just a 20 minute
>ride
>and I stayed over the airport (3CM) in case the engine quite or something
>went wrong. Can't wait to do it again and check more of the systems out.
>Enjoyed
>flying with Mike Seager in Three Rivers, Michigan last week and am sure
>glad
>I waited to get his transition training! Thanks to Van's for building
>awesome kits! And to all the folks that answered my questions along the
>way.
>Would have been tough without all the knowledge that these RV group
>members have
>helped me with. Thanks again!
>
>
>Pat Long
>_PGLong(at)aol.com_ (mailto:PGLong(at)aol.com)
>N120PL
>RV-4
>Bay City, Michigan
>3CM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | richard dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: First flight |
Congratulations, Pat!!!!!!
PGLong(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
>Hi Group
>
>Well, This is your official notification of my news today. My RV4, Kit #656,
>N120PL took it's first flight and all things worked well. As near as I could
>tell anyway. Talk about half scared and half nervous. Glad the first flight
>is over and we got it up and down successfully. It was just a 20 minute ride
>and I stayed over the airport (3CM) in case the engine quite or something
>went wrong. Can't wait to do it again and check more of the systems out. Enjoyed
>flying with Mike Seager in Three Rivers, Michigan last week and am sure glad
>I waited to get his transition training! Thanks to Van's for building
>awesome kits! And to all the folks that answered my questions along the way.
>Would have been tough without all the knowledge that these RV group members have
>helped me with. Thanks again!
>
>
>Pat Long
>_PGLong(at)aol.com_ (mailto:PGLong(at)aol.com)
>N120PL
>RV-4
>Bay City, Michigan
>3CM
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Update on the left stick, right stick question. |
| From: | "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net> |
, ,
"Turbo Tom"
Just a recap, I have 1200hrs left seat in my 6, Im building a Super 8, I
have 200 hours recent Aeronca Chief (left seat right throttle)I have
never flown solo a right stick left throttle anything, and there was
some discussion about this started by me on the rv-list as to why I
would not just make my 8 a left stick right throttle Bird so I would not
have to have any transition issues and so I would be able to write with
my right hand and fly with my left. I write a lot, especially IFR and
was concerned about these various issues. Update below...
OK So I'm at the Macon City formation clinic last weekend July 04 and
an RV-8 driver Glenn Miller, aka "Air Dog" and I are chatting about this
and that and he out of the blue says "why don't you just take mine and
see what you think? Ahhh, hmmmm, ahhh, don't you want to get in the
back? Naa, he says, you don't want my fat a!@# in there, go see what you
think. Mind you this plane is new to him (recent purchase), new period
(low time), and an award winner. So I go strap in, get a 20 second brief
on buttons and switches from Air Dog, fire up and launch his 200 pony
c/s 8. I don't remember anything during this flight about ever thinking
about the stick being in my right hand. I flew around, performed a
couple of maneuvers I probably shouldn't have (this is an RV after all
and I just could not help myself) and came in to land. 1st landing,
choose 3 point as this is what I am used to in the Chief, made about 4
landing bounces and decided this was totally unacceptable and I must
redeem myself, and hit the gas to try again.
Landing #2 was more stable, only 2 bounces, acceptable, and decided to
taxi in whilst I was still ahead.
Later that night, he lets me try her all over again, only this time as
#3 in a three ship so I can try this in formation with step son Wesley
in the back. He is 14 and helps on the Super 8 and needed to get juiced
about banging rivets too. Section TO, 3 ship vic, I'm #3 on the right
side, departure roll and liftoff perfect, climb to altitude in route,,
and lead(Speedy) gives me some slow turns in parade (close) formation.
Im doing real well here. He hands me the cross under and I head for the
left side of the formation. Now Im looking over the right side at lead
and things don't feel too well here. My inputs were a little backwards
and brain wiring to hands was shorted out. When I needed to nose down a
touch, I added a touch of power. Brain wiring screwed up. ARGH!! This
is crappy "Lead I need to get back on the right side!"... "Approved" and
over I went. Ahhh, I could feel the wiring back. The Left side was like
someone switched the brake and gas pedals in my car. It was not
comfortable. So we flew around like this and I became really comfortable
on the right side. Tight formation was quickly wiring brain to hands and
I was really enjoying myself. Air was as smooth as a baby's bottom as we
tooled around, buzzed the lake, & performed some pitchouts and rejoins.
We RTB in for initial and I made a 10+ landing that was a complete ever
so light squeaker on the mains with a tail up taxi to the turn off. I
was stoked at my killer killer landing . I went to bed that night with a
great smile on my face dreaming of doing all that with a 6 banger out
front. Driving Air Doggs 8 was just the highlight of my trip. Many
thanks to him for letting me drive this great machine and taste what Im
headin for as my Super 8 comes together. Not too many guys will offer to
let you launch off in their airplane. Thanks Dog. He saw some payback
too as he got to join in for a 13 ship flight off a D model P-51 at the
conclusion of our clinic. Sneak photo at
www.mstewart.net/deletesoon/13ship.jpg
Anyway.... here are some of my conclusions.
1. Yee Haa. The 8 is really fun.
2. In a tail dragger, Bad landings suck, good landings feel just
great.
3. Tandem visibility rocks for flying, formation, and especially
rejoins to the left.
4. Just flying around was no problem, right side formation great,
left side needs more stick time and would also be fine. Brain was wired
the other way and would take a bit of time to rewire.
5. Wheel landings sweet, 3 point junk with the heavy nose IO-360
c/s 8.
6. Super 8 gets right stick, left throttle even though I am still
weary about how Im gonna deal with writing with my right hand.
7. I owe Air Dog a beer.
Michael Stewart
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Philip Condon" <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | RV-List Removing swirls @ micro scratches from canopy |
After months of playing around and experimenting with polishing out
scratches in anything plastic or glass, I did my canopy his weekend and it
looks fantastic and like new. I made up some polish wheels from some packing
foam that was medium density(squishyness). Cut a rough circle about 2 to 3
inches in diameter and glued a 1/4 inch drill adapter to the center of the
mini foam polisher with Gorilla Glue (fantastic stuff). I Used 3-M swirl
remover/finishing paste, my battery Makita drill and a spritzer bottle of
water and polished the canopy. 3 hours for the total job over 3 days
(inside and outside of canopy) did the job. Use tape to mark scratches as
you site them, the scratches disappear from sight if you don't mark them
(opposite side of where you polish). Finish up with plexus and enjoy the
results. Presta polish and McGuire's works great also.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
| Subject: | Delivery of your Quickbuild Kit? |
I will be in Oregon next week and returning to Central Texas with an empty
16' flatbed trailer. If anyone west of the Mississippi would like me to
deliver their kit(s) please let me know. I can pick your kit up at Vans and
deliver it to your doorstep and help you unload it.
The price is negotiable but I'm sure I can save you some money and help me
out so I'm not hauling an empty trailer back to Texas.
512 563 1230
Mike Nellis
RV-6 Fuselage N699BM
1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K
http://bmnellis.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Brinlee" <abfbrinlee(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Delivery of your Quickbuild Kit? |
Mike,
I have an rv7 tail and wing I may purchase.....It is unbuilt by owner in the
area.
How much to bring back to Oklahoma city......on your way home.
doug
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com>
Subject: RV-List: Delivery of your Quickbuild Kit?
>
> I will be in Oregon next week and returning to Central Texas with an empty
> 16' flatbed trailer. If anyone west of the Mississippi would like me to
> deliver their kit(s) please let me know. I can pick your kit up at Vans
and
> deliver it to your doorstep and help you unload it.
>
> The price is negotiable but I'm sure I can save you some money and help me
> out so I'm not hauling an empty trailer back to Texas.
>
> 512 563 1230
>
>
> Mike Nellis
> RV-6 Fuselage N699BM
> 1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K
> http://bmnellis.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | YonderRDC(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Builders risk insurance |
Got my cell # wrong by one digit in my previous post. It's
253-350-2798....Sorry bout that....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Brinlee" <abfbrinlee(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | RV -7 kit wanted |
RV-7 kit wanted 7A prefered... with slider.. will consider untouched and started..
prefer at least emp and wing..
Take care,
Doug
405-206-6768
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy crack repair question |
Speaking of canopy cracking problems, has anyone else tried
the method of gluing on the canopy, using automotive windshield
glue as discussed in a recent kitplanes article? It seems
like it would reduce the incidence of canopy cracking, since
the stress will be more evenly distributed, and the glue can
flex a little. I'm planning on using this method, unless I
hear a horror story!
Mickey
>>Help. Sometime back someone on the list reported on the use of a chemical
>>that, as I recall, they obtained from a drug store and used to seal a canopy
>>crack. I don't remember that it was the stuff called Weldon form ACS. I can't
>>find it in the archives and I have a small crack that I need stop drill, fill
>>and hopefully weld with that stuff, whatever it is. Thanks.
>
>ACS has Weld-on 3, part # 03-54800 ..... $8.85/pint. You can get
>acrylic glue at almost any sign shop.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leland <Federigo(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy crack repair question |
You might find it interesting to read about Harry's father's at
http://www.fiddlersgreen.net/AC/aircraft/Crosby-CR3-Racer/info/info.htm
. His 1930's racer is on display at the Oshkosh Airventure museum.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | osh kosh product update |
| From: | "Bartrim, Todd" <Steve.Bartrim(at)canfor.com> |
> I should know better than to ask but did anyone catch if the forever
> immenintly ready, soon to be released, right around the corner, XCOM 760
> radio is actually being displayed by any of the avionics companys?
>
I received an e-mail from Michael Coates last night in response to my inquiry
about an update. Apparently they've already shipped 60 units and expect
to ship another 140 units by the end of next week. According to his e-mail they
are at Oshkosh.
I had an order in for one from aircraft spruce, but they recently raised
the price almost $300usd due to an increase in the Australian dollar, however
the AUD has been falling so much that I saved $160 by canceling and ordering
direct from X-Air and paying the current exchange rate. This will likely add
a few weeks to the order.
S. Todd Bartrim
Turbo 13B
RX-9endurance
C-FSTB
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
"Imagination is more important than knowledge"
-Albert Einstein
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | key/mags/start switches |
I have a key operated /mags/start switch that does not ground the mag
without the impulse coupler for starting. This cause a kickback at starting. The
only thing I know about the switch is it has Bendix stamped on the key. There
are unused terminals on the switch but I don't have a diagram showing anything
about the connections it can make. Hopefully a rewire will correct the
problem. This is on my early RV4 and was probably supplied by Van's. Don't know
as
I bought someone's else's project and never got the details on this item.
Would any one have this information available?
Pat Long
PGLong(at)aol.com
N120PL
RV4
Bay City, Michigan
3CM
Do Not Archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: CR-3 and CR-4 |
Leland: I have never heard of Fiddler's Green before. Interesting
website. I browsed around a little and noticed a comment from someone named Chuck,
who claimed that the CR-4 used parts from the CR-3. I was only about 5 years
old at the time but I remember very clearly seeing the remains of the CR-3 in
my Dad's hangar/shop. I am certain that nothing useable remained of the CR-3
after his very nearly fatal forced (spell that CRASH) landing in a ravine on
an LA golf course.
Harry
PS Save the heavy vinyl tape, I realized how useful it will be for both of
us to mask the canopy when sanding the fiberglass fillet/fairing or whatever
it's called.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Walker" <ron(at)walker.net> |
| Subject: | Re: key/mags/start switches |
Page 389 of the spruce catalog has a diagram to wire it correctly.
According to the NOTES I am reading, you should use a jumper on TERMINAL 1
when the left mag has an impulse coupler.
----- Original Message -----
From: <PGLong(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: key/mags/start switches
>
> I have a key operated /mags/start switch that does not ground the mag
> without the impulse coupler for starting. This cause a kickback at
starting. The
> only thing I know about the switch is it has Bendix stamped on the key.
There
> are unused terminals on the switch but I don't have a diagram showing
anything
> about the connections it can make. Hopefully a rewire will correct the
> problem. This is on my early RV4 and was probably supplied by Van's. Don't
know as
> I bought someone's else's project and never got the details on this item.
> Would any one have this information available?
>
> Pat Long
> PGLong(at)aol.com
> N120PL
> RV4
> Bay City, Michigan
> 3CM
>
> Do Not Archive
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Holland" <hollandm(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Baffleologist Needed |
Vans baffle kit front floors require a diagonal bend to bring the front in alignment
with the real edge of the cowl. In trying to do that with all the extra
material there appeared to be I cut quite a bit away. But even with a deep bend
the edges don't align well so I was wondering how folks actually do this.
Has anyone posted pictures of these artful bends?
If not a word picture would help. I promise, if I ever get these to fit, per-plans,
I'll post the photos for posterity. It's a standard O-320 with fixed pitch
prop.
Thanks,
Mike Holland
RV9A
Dana Point, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: key/mags/start switches |
In a message dated 7/29/2004 5:25:39 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
PGLong(at)aol.com writes:
I have a key operated /mags/start switch that does not ground the mag
without the impulse coupler for starting. This cause a kickback at
starting. The
only thing I know about the switch is it has Bendix stamped on the key.
There
are unused terminals on the switch but I don't have a diagram showing
anything
about the connections it can make. Hopefully a rewire will correct the
problem. This is on my early RV4 and was probably supplied by Van's. Don't
know as
I bought someone's else's project and never got the details on this item.
Would any one have this information available?
====================================
I think all of these switches are pretty similar but if anything here
doesn't sound right for your switch, then disregard.
Adjacent to and coplanar with the terminal marked R is another terminal that
gets internally connected to Ground only when the key is turned to the
starter position. You should jumper across these two terminals. Your right mag
P
lead center conductor should also be attached to terminal R. The shields of
both P Leads should connect to the GND terminal in the center of the switch.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 708 hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andy Karmy <andy(at)karmy.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuse Blocks on a slider. |
I have some pictures of my flip down fuse blocks on my 9A slider.
http://www.karmy.com/rv9a/pictures/fuselage/electrical/index.htm
- Andy Karmy
andy(at)karmy.com
On Jul 27, 2004, at 3:54 AM, Dana Overall wrote:
>
> Does anyone know a good website showing picture locations for a
> battery,
> main and essential set of blocks for a 6 or 7 slider?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Baffleologist Needed |
You can rivet several pieces together to get the precise fit you want-it
doesn't have to be a one piece floor with just the right bends in it.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Holland" <hollandm(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: RV-List: Baffleologist Needed
>
> Vans baffle kit front floors require a diagonal bend to bring the front in
alignment with the real edge of the cowl. In trying to do that with all the
extra material there appeared to be I cut quite a bit away. But even with a
deep bend the edges don't align well so I was wondering how folks actually
do this. Has anyone posted pictures of these artful bends?
>
> If not a word picture would help. I promise, if I ever get these to fit,
per-plans, I'll post the photos for posterity. It's a standard O-320 with
fixed pitch prop.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike Holland
> RV9A
> Dana Point, CA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Bibb" <rebibb(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: key/mags/start switches |
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Rev10/z10.pdf
Look at Figure Z-20 in the above to see how to wire this switch. Tons of
good stuff on here related to anything electrical on your ship.
Bob is a real asset to the community.
Richard Bibb
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuse Blocks on a slider. |
Andy,
I like your solution - I had already made some decisions that prevented me
from doing it that way.....
next time......
Ralph Capen
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuse Blocks on a slider.
>
> I have some pictures of my flip down fuse blocks on my 9A slider.
>
> http://www.karmy.com/rv9a/pictures/fuselage/electrical/index.htm
>
> - Andy Karmy
> andy(at)karmy.com
>
> On Jul 27, 2004, at 3:54 AM, Dana Overall wrote:
>
> >
> > Does anyone know a good website showing picture locations for a
> > battery,
> > main and essential set of blocks for a 6 or 7 slider?
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Birkelbach <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Baffleologist Needed |
I went through a lot of posterboard while building my baffles. Make the
piece out of posterboard first and then use the posterboard as a
template to trim the aluminum. If you cut off too much paper stuff get
some tape and put some more on and trim again.
Here is my page on the baffles. I am building an O-360 C/S so it will
be somewhat different but it might help.
http://www.myrv7.com/viewlog.php?chapterid=23
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Panel
http://www.myrv7.com
Mike Holland wrote:
>
>Vans baffle kit front floors require a diagonal bend to bring the front in alignment
with the real edge of the cowl. In trying to do that with all the extra
material there appeared to be I cut quite a bit away. But even with a deep
bend the edges don't align well so I was wondering how folks actually do this.
Has anyone posted pictures of these artful bends?
>
>If not a word picture would help. I promise, if I ever get these to fit, per-plans,
I'll post the photos for posterity. It's a standard O-320 with fixed pitch
prop.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Mike Holland
>RV9A
>Dana Point, CA
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Baffleologist Needed |
I got a pretty even fit of the baffle front floors to the lower cowl inlet flange
on my O360 by the bend a little then test fit method. Takes a lot of trips
back and forth to the vise but it does work though others may have some secret
approach I don't know about. What I found, Mike, was that the bend line on
the baffle kit plan didn't make sense. I think the cowl has changed making the
location of the bend line obsolete. I also cut a lot away from the front &
I would characterize the bend for the right side floor as fairly steep, about
30 degrees, whereas the left side floor is very shallow. On both sides, the bend
starts within about an inch forward of the cylinder fins and is not parallel
to them. I also remember that I put some twist into the right side floor by
bending it more sharply as you move outboard along the bend line to get the
floor to align with the inlet flange. Everything is disassembled right now, but
if you need it, send me an email & I should be able to eventually forward a
digital picture. My daughter is about to give me a grandson so there may be
some delay.
Dave Reel - RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com> |
| Subject: | Printable panel instruments |
I'd like to start mocking up my panel and would like some printable versions
of the various flight/engine instruments in full size if possible. Anyone
have any? Altimeter, VSI, ASI, etc.
Matthew Brandes,
Van's RV-9A (Fuselage)
EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Any I-K Technologies Aim-2 Reports? |
Listers:
Am planning on I-K Technologies Aim-2 Eng Monitor -- have searched archives
& found much-earlier favorable report on I-K 2000 by Stein Bruch, but
nothing recent. I-K site no help ("under constrn").
Any other user reports on this option? Any info on ease of sensor install,
or other comments?
Thanks in advance.
Dave Bockelman
F1 Rocket
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kathleen (rv7)" <Kathleen(at)rv7.us> |
| Subject: | Printable panel instruments |
Mathew,
I have images that I add to my panel layouts full-size in Photoshop. They
are not great quality, but you or anyone else is welcome to them. I'd be
happy to email them (they are all 300 dpi). I put each one up as a separate
layer so I can move them around at will. This is certainly not the best way
to do it, but failing other options, I'm happy to offer what I have.
You can look at some (shrunk and dropped to 72 dpi) panel mockups at
http://www.rv7.us/a_panel.htm, but NO laughing at my ideas! :-)
Kathleen Evans
Folsom, CA
www.rv7.us
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matthew Brandes
Subject: RV-List: Printable panel instruments
I'd like to start mocking up my panel and would like some printable versions
of the various flight/engine instruments in full size if possible. Anyone
have any? Altimeter, VSI, ASI, etc.
Matthew Brandes,
Van's RV-9A (Fuselage)
EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/>
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Printable panel instruments |
http://images.rvproject.com/images/panel/
That's some to start with, maybe outdated by now. Have fun with your "panel
puzzle." 8-)
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com>
Subject: RV-List: Printable panel instruments
>
> I'd like to start mocking up my panel and would like some printable
versions
> of the various flight/engine instruments in full size if possible. Anyone
> have any? Altimeter, VSI, ASI, etc.
>
>
> Matthew Brandes,
> Van's RV-9A (Fuselage)
> EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
> www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Printable panel instruments |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Fuse Blocks on a slider. |
Andy,
It's beautiful.
I wonder if you've considered a way to keep flame and gases from
penetrating the firewall at your wire and cable pass throughs? It
appears in the photos that you're using plastic snap fittings.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Andy Karmy
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuse Blocks on a slider.
I have some pictures of my flip down fuse blocks on my 9A slider.
http://www.karmy.com/rv9a/pictures/fuselage/electrical/index.htm
- Andy Karmy
andy(at)karmy.com
On Jul 27, 2004, at 3:54 AM, Dana Overall wrote:
>
> Does anyone know a good website showing picture locations for a
> battery,
> main and essential set of blocks for a 6 or 7 slider?
>
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Holland" <hollandm(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Baffle pics, thanks |
Appreciate the good photos and suggestions, excellent timing too, with the weekend
to bend aluminum.
It's beginning to make sense which usually is the feeling I get just before I have
to start ordering replacement parts.
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | google rocks the house |
Ok, I knew about google's conversion tools...which are way cool. For
example, go to http://google.com (or use the google toolbar) and type in
"200 mph in knots" or "42 gal in liters" or "1100 pounds in kilos" or "2
quarts in liters" or whatever.
But I just stumbled across something that's even more relevant to us
aviation geeks...
Go to google and type in any N-number. Above the search results is a link
to quickly look up the FAA registration. Now you don't have to navigate
through the FAA's horrible web site and click like 7 times just to get to
the query page. Straight to the results.
Somebody over there at google is thinkin', that's for sure.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Anderson" <ken(at)peggyking.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV-List Digest: Any I-K Technologies Aim-2 Reports? |
I had I-K Technologies make a AIM-2 unit that would read out Fuel Quantities
for my RV-9A with Capacitive sensors. I found that Ralph was knowledgeable,
responsive, and easy to work with. I have my AIM-2 unit now, but have not
installed it. The unit arrived with good documentation. I am looking
forward to installing and using it.
Ken Anderson
RV-9A Fuselage
From: DvdBock(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Any I-K Technologies Aim-2 Reports?
Listers:
Am planning on I-K Technologies Aim-2 Eng Monitor -- have searched
archives
& found much-earlier favorable report on I-K 2000 by Stein Bruch, but
nothing recent. I-K site no help ("under constrn").
Any other user reports on this option? Any info on ease of sensor install,
or other comments?
Thanks in advance.
Dave Bockelman
F1 Rocket
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Knicholas2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Micromonitor calibration |
How do I calibrate the amp. meter setting on my Rocky Mt. Instruments
micromonitor? The manual makes reference to calibration but I I cannot find it
in
the manual. (It is probably right in from of me and I just don't see it......)
Thanks.
Kim Nicholas
Seattle
RV9A Flying!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Strobe regs question |
| From: | Paul M Parashak <paulmike(at)parashak.net> |
With all the discussion of strobes, I started digging into the regs and have
a question. FAR23.1401=A0=A0=A0Anticollision light system ( found here:
http://tinyurl.com/3k6g3 ), is this the strobe or the red beacon? How many
strobes do I really need? Two or three? I was planning a rudder position
light but Van=B9s also sells an aft light/strobe combo. Do I need the combo?
Regards, Paul
rv8a.parashak.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Baffleologist Needed |
In a message dated 7/29/04 8:54:26 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
hollandm(at)pacbell.net writes:
<< if I ever get these to fit, per-plans >>
I don't think you ever will Mike. In my case with 0-360, I had to shorten
the inlet floors a lot and the bends, both the floors and the sidewalls,
required to match up with the cowl were not in the places shown on the plans.
I
concluded that the plans are more of a generic guide. I used a lot of cardboard
patterns to figure out the necessary geometry. Sorry, I don't have any
pictures, but that would just spoil your fun anyway.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, final assembly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuse Blocks on a slider. |
> Vans sell two types of heat selector boxes, you probably have either the
> 1st or 2nd one. The 1st is all aluminum, no good in a fire. Vans
sells.
> but according to EPM.AV's web site the stainless one will stand up to a
> 2000 degree fire.
I hate to sound like a spoil sport and may be totally off base in this
discussion; but, I've just got to ask the question, anyway. Have any of you
ever given any thoughts about what the cowl is made of? I think the heat
selector box is going to be the last thing I'll worry about if a fire in the
engine compartment is hot enough to melt the box. That cowl is going to be
going up in smoke. Right behind it will be a canopy melting in my lap. I'm
not going to be worried about a fire in a two inch hole. I'm going to worry
about how to get away from that melting plastic! One guy has already
experienced this problem and didn't make it. He was a great RV-list
contributor, too. Of course, I've been known to be wrong about these things
and try to learn from my mistakes. :-)
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
EAA Technical Counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Isler" <jlisler(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Alternate Air Source on RV4 |
I have a filtered air box from Van's that I am installing on an RV-4 and I
also have a carb heat muff from Robbins. The question is how do you connect
the two together? The filtered air box, as designed, has a flapper valve
that opens or closes a 'D' shaped hole in the top of the box for the
alternate air source. This source is the heated air that comes past the
cylinders underneath the engine. I do not see a good way to connect a 2"
SCAT hose to the top of the box and over to the heat muff. The problem is
the way the actuator arm is installed on the flapper valve. It protrudes
through the 'D' shaped hole so you cannot cover it up with a hose connector.
Is the heated air from the cylinders all I need for carb heat?
Thanks,
Jerry Isler
RV-4 N455J
Donalsonville, Ga.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe regs question |
At 10:43 2004-07-31, you wrote:
>
>With all the discussion of strobes, I started digging into the regs and have
>a question. FAR23.1401=A0=A0=A0Anticollision light system ( found here:
>http://tinyurl.com/3k6g3 ), is this the strobe or the red beacon? How many
>strobes do I really need? Two or three? I was planning a rudder position
>light but Van=B9s also sells an aft light/strobe combo. Do I need the combo?
>
>Regards, Paul
>rv8a.parashak.net
Simply put, you need to be able to see at least one of the strobes all the
way around the plane, all 360 degrees. So...
If you use the combo lights that stick out the end of the wing tips that
you can see from behind the plane, you don't need the tail light on the rudder.
If you use the lights that are recessed into the forward corner of the wing
tip that you cannot see from behind the plane, then you need the tail light.
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
13B in gestation mode, RD-1C, EC-2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternate Air Source on RV4 |
Van's sells an adapter that makes exactly the connection you need. It has a
2" flange for SCAT tubing on one end and the other end rivets to your
airbox. The airbox end is raised slightly off of the airbox, and I can think
of a couple of reasons for that, but I dunno if they are the *real* reasons.
There are a couple of pic's at this link:
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/engine4.html but they don't give a
tremendous view of the details of the adapter.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Isler" <jlisler(at)alltel.net>
Subject: RV-List: Alternate Air Source on RV4
>
> I have a filtered air box from Van's that I am installing on an RV-4 and I
> also have a carb heat muff from Robbins. The question is how do you
connect
> the two together? The filtered air box, as designed, has a flapper valve
> that opens or closes a 'D' shaped hole in the top of the box for the
> alternate air source. This source is the heated air that comes past the
> cylinders underneath the engine. I do not see a good way to connect a 2"
> SCAT hose to the top of the box and over to the heat muff. The problem is
> the way the actuator arm is installed on the flapper valve. It protrudes
> through the 'D' shaped hole so you cannot cover it up with a hose
connector.
> Is the heated air from the cylinders all I need for carb heat?
>
> Thanks,
> Jerry Isler
> RV-4 N455J
> Donalsonville, Ga.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Baffleologist Needed |
In contrast, my inlet floors & sides have no bends - they weren't needed. I
had to cut almost 2" off the floor length.
Use the plans only to understand the concepts of how/why it's done. Then do
whatever is needed to make your individual installation work.
-
Larry Bowen. RV-8 almost...
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: HCRV6(at)aol.com [mailto:HCRV6(at)aol.com]
> Sent: Saturday, July 31, 2004 2:06 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Baffleologist Needed
>
>
>
> In a message dated 7/29/04 8:54:26 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> hollandm(at)pacbell.net writes:
>
> << if I ever get these to fit, per-plans >>
>
> I don't think you ever will Mike. In my case with 0-360, I
> had to shorten
> the inlet floors a lot and the bends, both the floors and the
> sidewalls,
> required to match up with the cowl were not in the places
> shown on the plans. I
> concluded that the plans are more of a generic guide. I used
> a lot of cardboard
> patterns to figure out the necessary geometry. Sorry, I
> don't have any
> pictures, but that would just spoil your fun anyway.
>
> Harry Crosby
> Pleasanton, California
> RV-6, final assembly
>
>
> ===========
> Matronics Forums.
> ===========
> ===========
> ===========
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Streit <wooody04(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuse Blocks on a slider. |
A gasoline fire will be fed from a gasoline source ( the carburator/amd
or fuel lines)which is at the bottom of the engine. The air flow
through the cowling is from the air intake , through the baffles , then
down past the firewall and out through the exit at the rear of the
cowl. The cowling , at least at the air intake will be experiencing
relatively cool air vs. the temp of the air where the gasoline fire is
burning. Shutting off the fuel pump and fuel valve could stop the fire
before it spread to the fiberglass cowliing.
Jim Streit
CFII
RV-9A
90073
N973MC
Jim Sears wrote:
>
>
>
>
>>Vans sell two types of heat selector boxes, you probably have either the
>>1st or 2nd one. The 1st is all aluminum, no good in a fire. Vans
>>
>>
>sells.
>
>
>>but according to EPM.AV's web site the stainless one will stand up to a
>>2000 degree fire.
>>
>>
>
>I hate to sound like a spoil sport and may be totally off base in this
>discussion; but, I've just got to ask the question, anyway. Have any of you
>ever given any thoughts about what the cowl is made of? I think the heat
>selector box is going to be the last thing I'll worry about if a fire in the
>engine compartment is hot enough to melt the box. That cowl is going to be
>going up in smoke. Right behind it will be a canopy melting in my lap. I'm
>not going to be worried about a fire in a two inch hole. I'm going to worry
>about how to get away from that melting plastic! One guy has already
>experienced this problem and didn't make it. He was a great RV-list
>contributor, too. Of course, I've been known to be wrong about these things
>and try to learn from my mistakes. :-)
>
>Jim Sears in KY
>RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
>EAA Technical Counselor
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Low-Cost wig wag |
rv4-list(at)matronics.com
I just received Knuckolls' alternating flasher from the B&C website. Cost $25
including shipping. It took me about 15 minutes to install it mostly because
I had already wired up my switches in anticipation of installing a flasher. I
didn't want to shell out the buck for the other wig wag units (which are very
nice...I'm just a cheapskate.) The thing works great. Four wires, some fast-on
connectors, and a very small module; very easy to install. It's not adjustable,
you get one flash pattern and that's it. It's working well for me.
Submitted FWIW.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Low-Cost wig wag |
Scott Vanartsdalen wrote:
>
>I just received Knuckolls' alternating flasher from the B&C website. Cost $25
including shipping. It took me about 15 minutes to install it mostly because
I had already wired up my switches in anticipation of installing a flasher.
I didn't want to shell out the buck for the other wig wag units (which are very
nice...I'm just a cheapskate.) The thing works great. Four wires, some fast-on
connectors, and a very small module; very easy to install. It's not adjustable,
you get one flash pattern and that's it. It's working well for me.
>
>Submitted FWIW.
>
>
>--
>Scott VanArtsdalen
>RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
>
Is this a landing light flasher?
Linn
>
> When a man does all he can
> though it succeeds not well,
> blame not him that did it."
> -- George Washington
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Low-Cost wig wag |
Yes, sorry. I knew what I was thinking I guess I can't expect everyone else to
know. This was in fact, a landing light flasher that specifically alternately
flashes your landing and taxi lights. My landing lights are Duckworks lights
in the leading edge. Using the standard bulb that shipped with the kit circa
1999.
Scott Vanartsdalen wrote:
>
>I just received Knuckolls' alternating flasher from the B&C website. Cost $25
including shipping. It took me about 15 minutes to install it mostly because I
had already wired up my switches in anticipation of installing a flasher. I didn't
want to shell out the buck for the other wig wag units (which are very nice...I'm
just a cheapskate.) The thing works great. Four wires, some fast-on
connectors, and a very small module; very easy to install. It's not adjustable,
you get one flash pattern and that's it. It's working well for me.
>
>Submitted FWIW.
>
>
>--
>Scott VanArtsdalen
>RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
>
Is this a landing light flasher?
Linn
>
> When a man does all he can
> though it succeeds not well,
> blame not him that did it."
> -- George Washington
>
>
>
>
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RGray67968(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | lyco crankshaft crossover/sludge tube |
Regarding the crossover/sludge tube in the hollow crank of my O-360 engine,
can any of you engine gurus tell me:
1-What the crossover tube is for?
2-How is the oil supplied to the tube?
3-In a fixed pitch application the oil runs back down the crank to the
sump....in a C/S application, is the oil just 'trapped' in the hollow crank?
4-Is the tube necessary?
Thanks in advance.
Rick Gray in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm - Posted this on the lyco list as well.
for the archives
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Shopping for a VHF Radio |
1.4 DATE_IN_FUTURE_96_XX Date": is.96.hours.or.more.after.Received:date(at)matronics.com
Sigh, it seems that the old Terra handheld in my RV-3 has finally given it's last
gasp and it is time to shop for a suitable replacement. Due to size and space
constraints in my panel, the best option would probably be a 2 1/4" panel mount
such as the Microair M760 or similar. Anyone been shopping for a Microair
lately? How about the X-Air XCOM 760 or something similar? Any comment on price
and availability of these radios which I gather have been variable at times?
Jim Oke
RV-3 C-FIZM
RV-6A C-GKGZ
Winnipeg, MB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard B. Rauch" <richardr(at)apcon.com> |
| Subject: | Converting O360 to IO360 |
Has anyone had any experience converting a Lycoming O360 carbureted engine to an
IO360 fuel injected engine.
Richard B. Rauch
Email: richardr(at)apcon.com
APCON, Inc.
17938 SW Upper Boones Ferry Rd.
Portland, OR 97224 USA
Ph: (503)639-6700
Fax: (503)639-6740
Web: www.apcon.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Cimino" <jcimino(at)echoes.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Converting O360 to IO360 |
I have moved the fuel injection servo from the rear of my engine to the
front. But I think most guys just mount the fuel injection servo underneath
and install a scoop.
James Cimino
RV-8 SN 80039
100+ Hours
570-842-4057
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard B. Rauch" <richardr(at)apcon.com>
Subject: RV-List: Converting O360 to IO360
>
> Has anyone had any experience converting a Lycoming O360 carbureted engine
to an IO360 fuel injected engine.
>
>
> Richard B. Rauch
> Email: richardr(at)apcon.com
>
> APCON, Inc.
> 17938 SW Upper Boones Ferry Rd.
> Portland, OR 97224 USA
> Ph: (503)639-6700
> Fax: (503)639-6740
>
> Web: www.apcon.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roger Embree <j.embree(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Collingwood - Gathering of the Classics |
Southern Ontario RVators,
Due to the poor weather yesterday, the annual event at Collingwood was a
bit of a bust. After the heavy rain stopped, about a dozen of us pushed
our planes out for the public to view. The only classic to fly in was a
beautiful C170 from Burlington which arrived late in the day. Mine was
the only RV, so I had to answer the Q's about Van's machines. Many of
you might not know that at the last minute the organizers changed the
format to a full two day event. Please show up today and help me answer
those questions. I am looking out the window and there is nothing but
clear blue up here, so get going!
There is a beautiful example of a 3/4 scale storch on the field for any
of you who have never seen one.
Regards,
Roger Embree
RV-4 CGIRH Alliston, Ontario
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Counter Balance Weights |
> Neil -
>
> Before paint, my left elevator with electric trim needs a little more
weight
> than the supplied lead block provides. I mounted a nutplate across the
> forward tooling hole in the ribs and used an assortment of fender washers
on
> a -3 bolt to balance it. I haven't decided yet whether to cast a lead
chunk
> to replace the washers.
>
> Alternatively, someone (Gretz, maybe?) is making a kit to relocate the
servo
> and it's attendant weight to the fuse, to get the mass out of the
elevator.
>
> Neal
> RV-7 N8ZG (wings)
I had this very conversation with Van's at OSH this past week. It seems
that it's okay and within design parameters to balance the left and right
elevators as a unit, despite the lack of torsional rigidity of the system.
Their design accounts for this possibility.
Glen Matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Has anyone taken advantage of the D10 --> D10A upgrade offered by Dynon?
Was it worth the hassle and money? Is it truly a clean swap, or do you have
to monkey with the existing D10 wiring harness (ie, output to the
transonder)?
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
Hi,
The D10A only outputs serial transponder data (if that's what
it's called) whereas the D10 outputs parallel. This tells me
that the wiring will need to be changed, if the upgrade is
truly to a D10A.
Mickey
>Has anyone taken advantage of the D10 --> D10A upgrade offered by Dynon?
>Was it worth the hassle and money? Is it truly a clean swap, or do you have
>to monkey with the existing D10 wiring harness (ie, output to the
>transonder)?
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Strobe regs question |
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Strobe regs question
>
>
> At 10:43 2004-07-31, you wrote:
> >
> >With all the discussion of strobes, I started digging into the regs and
have
> >a question. FAR23.1401=A0=A0=A0Anticollision light system ( found here:
> >http://tinyurl.com/3k6g3 ), is this the strobe or the red beacon? How
many
> >strobes do I really need? Two or three? I was planning a rudder
position
> >light but Van=B9s also sells an aft light/strobe combo. Do I need the
combo?
> >
> >Regards, Paul
> >rv8a.parashak.net
>
> Simply put, you need to be able to see at least one of the strobes all
the
> way around the plane, all 360 degrees. So...
>
Howdy-
To answer your questions directly, Yes; None; Neither; Nope.
To expand a little: If you're gonna fly at night, the two things you will
need are position lights and anti collision lights. The viewing angle
requirements for these are shown in the Aircraft Spruce catalog lighting
section. To achieve the upward coverage specified, Van's sheared wingtips
generally require a standoff such as can be found in the Van's accessory
catalog. Either the 2 unit all-in-one wingtip variety or the more
conventional 3 position lights will work fine.
With regard to the strobe / beacon issue, the regs specify either an
approved aviation red or aviation white anti collision light system. This
can be an older style red incandescent beacon, a newer style strobe through
a red lens, white wingtip strobes, a white beacon (I believe Beech has done
this in the past), or whatever. The essential elements are that it not be
a steady light, that it be visible, and it be either red or white. Soooo,
strobes are fine, a beacon is fine, and both together are (at least from a
regulatory perspective) overkill.
As to the ability to see the strobe / beacon from any direction, in a
previous life I flew a few 152's that had a beacon on top of the fin and no
strobes at all. The wing, stabilizer, and fuse blocked quite a bit of fwd
and downward viewing angle. As an aside, I have also flown at least one
piper product that had wingtip strobes but no beacon.
For my own part, I elected to go with no beacon and the all in one wingtip
units from Whelen. Having viewed them side by side with the Aeroflashes I
felt Whelens put out more light, which is of course the whole idea. Also,
the wingtip units will eliminate one more potential reason for my larger
than average carcass to have to crawl into the tailcone again. Were I to
do it over, I'd probably use the less expensive Whelen spin off unit
recently mentioned.
YMMV,
FWIW,
Nomex on,
Etc.
Glen Matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Micromonitor calibration |
Kim,
You might want to call Ron at Rocky Mountain.
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: Knicholas2(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Micromonitor calibration
>Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2004 12:51:27 EDT
>
>
>How do I calibrate the amp. meter setting on my Rocky Mt. Instruments
>micromonitor? The manual makes reference to calibration but I I cannot
>find it in
>the manual. (It is probably right in from of me and I just don't see
>it......)
>
>Thanks.
>
>Kim Nicholas
>Seattle
>RV9A Flying!!!
>
>
Planning a family vacation? Check out the MSN Family Travel guide!
http://dollar.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RE: [RV-8] First Flight |
Jon,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "Jonathan Weiswasser" <jonweisw(at)rcn.com>
>Reply-To: RV-8(at)yahoogroups.com
>To: RV-8(at)yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [RV-8] First Flight
>Date: Sun, 01 Aug 2004 13:37:59 -0000
>
>N898JW, RV-8 sn#81639, borne out of a basement in downtown Washington,
>DC, took to the air over Leesburg on July 26. It sports an IO-360M1B
>with dual lightspeeds and a Whirlwind 151. Gross weight at 1140lbs
>(Yes, heavy, I know...) Part of the weight is due to the packed panel,
>which includes Dynon D-10, two axis trutrak, CNX-80 with MX-20, SL-40,
>PMA-4000B audio panel, Garmin GTX-330 (with mode S), full complement
>of steam gauges (including 2 1/4" peanut gyro from the fly market at
>OSH last year), EIS, and a WSI. I also put the Lyle Hefel side panel
>mods in. Look for featured article in The Washington Post style
>section next week.
>
>Without wheel pants or gear leg fairings, it looks like I'm getting
>150kts. The left wing is slightly heavy (what else is new?). What a
>pleasure to fly! Special thanks to Craig Moen (RV-8), Carl Froehlich
>(RV-8A), and Curtis Hinkley (RV-8) [aka "The Three C's" of MARV fame),
>who never failed to decend on my house to help me fix a problem or
>conquer another milestone in the build process. Without them, this
>project would have been very difficult.
>
>Good luck to all!
>
>Jon Weiswasser
>N898JW, RV-8
>Flying!
>
>
>http://us.click.yahoo.com/Z1wmxD/DREIAA/yQLSAA/jrDrlB/TM
>
>
><*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV-8/
>
><*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> RV-8-unsubscribe(at)yahoogroups.com
>
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Planning a family vacation? Check out the MSN Family Travel guide!
http://dollar.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Micromonitor calibration |
I don't remember calibrating mine. I just assembled it and slapped it on there.
It seems reasonably accurate but I've never really cross checked it. My Micromonitor
has been working great for about two years.
"Charles Rowbotham"
Kim,
You might want to call Ron at Rocky Mountain.
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: Knicholas2(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Micromonitor calibration
>Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2004 12:51:27 EDT
>
>
>How do I calibrate the amp. meter setting on my Rocky Mt. Instruments
>micromonitor? The manual makes reference to calibration but I I cannot
>find it in
>the manual. (It is probably right in from of me and I just don't see
>it......)
>
>Thanks.
>
>Kim Nicholas
>Seattle
>RV9A Flying!!!
>
>
Planning a family vacation? Check out the MSN Family Travel guide!
http://dollar.msn.com
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dag adamson <dag_adamson(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Looking for photos of exhaust installation for rv-8a |
Hello-
I am looking for photos of how the cross over exhaust was secured on an RV-8A with
an io360-A1b6. The diagram that came with the exhaust moinuting hardware
wasn't that great.
Thanks
Dag
*****************
Dag Adamson
617 513 1182
Cambridge, MA
Denver, CO
*****************
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Looking for photos of exhaust installation for rv-8a |
"wasn't that great" -- very kind.
I would have preferred a drawing or photo just half as well done as the
exhaust work. The Vetterman exhaust system sold by Van's is near perfect but
the
installation instructions --- lets say (also being kind) -- leave a lot to
be desired. I guess I'll just wing it unless some help is available here for
my IO360A!B6/RV7A installation.
Some of you are saying "just bolt it on" and that's what I did. The
question is, exactly how is the supplied support structure to be attached?
Bob Trumpfheller
am looking for photos of how the cross over exhaust was secured on an RV-8A
with an io360-A1b6. The diagram that came with the exhaust moinuting
hardware wasn't that great.
Thanks
Dag
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for photos of exhaust installation for rv-8a |
See the bottom of this page...
http://www.rvproject.com/20030825.html
Got a few crappy photos of the exhaust hanger setup for the A1B6 exhaust.
It's on a -7, so if anything it'll give you a clearer view without the
nosegear weldment in the way...you get the idea.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "dag adamson" <dag_adamson(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Looking for photos of exhaust installation for rv-8a
>
> Hello-
>
> I am looking for photos of how the cross over exhaust was secured on an
RV-8A with an io360-A1b6. The diagram that came with the exhaust moinuting
hardware wasn't that great.
>
> Thanks
> Dag
>
>
> *****************
> Dag Adamson
> 617 513 1182
> Cambridge, MA
> Denver, CO
> *****************
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thomas Phy" <tphy(at)bmi.net> |
| Subject: | alodine and or prime |
Hi folks,
I know, I know. But this is NOT a "which primer do I use" but IF I alodine (aka,
the wing spars) do I need to primer?
Tom, (RV-7 wings)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dr. Peter Laurence" <dr.laurence(at)mbdi.org> |
| Subject: | Re: alodine and or prime |
Tom,
The spars are anodized.
The only areas that need chromic conversion are the countersunk holes.
I would prime the spars.
Peter
RV9A
Waiting for wings.
>
> Hi folks,
> I know, I know. But this is NOT a "which primer do I use" but IF I
alodine (aka, the wing spars) do I need to primer?
> Tom, (RV-7 wings)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Kirk" <impalaflyer(at)sev.org> |
| Subject: | H2AD Alternator Mount Question |
Can anyone tell me if the "Boss Mount Alternator Bracket Kit" Part Number
"ES ALT-BKT" from Van's will fit on the O-320-H2AD?
The H2AD alternator mounting boss is horizontal (not angled like the starter
mounting pad) the two bolt holes are 2" apart (fore and aft) and use 5/16" x
18 bolts that go straight up into the crankcase about 1-1/2" from the case
centerline and the first hole is about 2-1/16" back from the center of the
flywheel v-groove.
I'm using the 35A alternator #ES14184 and I don't have the original H2AD
alt. bracket (#LW15350 in the Lycoming parts book) to test the alignment
either.
I can post pictures on my website if they may help answer this question.
Any help is greatly appreciated,
Tony Kirk
http://members.accesstoledo.com/jkirk/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Converting O360 to IO360 |
Richard,
It can be complecated or fairly easy depending on which way you want to do
it. If you want to go the whole route and change the sump, etc., then it
gets complicated. But if you just want to add the servo and such then it
gets much easier. Airflow Performance has a very nice installation package
to do just this.
Mike Robertson
>From: "Richard B. Rauch" <richardr(at)apcon.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Converting O360 to IO360
>Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2004 20:37:28 -0700
>
>
>Has anyone had any experience converting a Lycoming O360 carbureted engine
>to an IO360 fuel injected engine.
>
>
>Richard B. Rauch
>Email: richardr(at)apcon.com
>
>APCON, Inc.
>17938 SW Upper Boones Ferry Rd.
>Portland, OR 97224 USA
>Ph: (503)639-6700
>Fax: (503)639-6740
>
>Web: www.apcon.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bartrim, Todd" <Steve.Bartrim(at)canfor.com> |
> >Has anyone taken advantage of the D10 --> D10A upgrade offered by Dynon?
> >Was it worth the hassle and money? Is it truly a clean swap, or do you have
> >to monkey with the existing D10 wiring harness (ie, output to the
> >transonder)?
>
>
When I first heard about it I thought it was a no-brainer. For a few hundred $$$
it sounds great especially when you consider the addition of an auto-pilot control
head. However about a week previous to the announcement I'd finally ordered
a MicroAir T2000 transponder (been flying without one). While I'd certainly
prefer the serial gray code output over the parallel, this issue is a showstopper.
I'm happily flying now with the D10 encoding the T2000 and while I'd
love to take advantage of the upgrade offer, I likely won't unless they address
this as I don't desire to change transponders or add an encoder.
S. Todd Bartrim
Turbo 13B
RX-9endurance
C-FSTB
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
"Imagination is more important than knowledge"
-Albert Einstein
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Diffenbaugh" <diff(at)foothill.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Approach Systems Wiring Hub |
I have reviewed the archives, and am looking to hear any new pros and cons
on the Approach Systems Wiring Hub from those who have had actual experience
with that system, particularly involving IFR stacks and autopilots. So far
I have only been able to find and converse with two users.
Thank you,
Scott Diffenbaugh-RV7A mostly complete except for instrument panel wiring
diff(at)foothill.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Allen " <ajdubers(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Need help with brake lines |
Jason
Use 'hard' aluminum with AN fittings. It will be a bit more difficult
to form the hard stuff but the soft AL has a fairly low burst point
(lower than the plastic in fact).
This will cure your adventures in braking....
allen
Allen Duberstein
ajdubers(at)comcast.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jason Sneed
Subject: RV-List: Need help with brake lines
I have an RV-6 and I have had numerous problems with my brake lines.
The builder used what looks like plastic (poly) brake lines down the
gear leg fairing to the caliper. A couple times the caliper heated up
and melted the plastic tube at the fitting and I lost all my fluid.
Yesterday I did a fast no flap landing and my right brake pedal was
very stiff after landing (probably due to the brake fluid being VERY
hot) once stopped I mashed the brake and POP. At the very top of the
gear leg fairing I have a pin hole in the plastic which leaked the
fluid. I am getting pretty good at landing on a 2000 foot strip with no
brakes but I do not think this is a good thing to brag about.
Obviously I have to get rid of the plastic hose on both sides my
questions are:
1. What type of hose to use?
2. I have woods stiffeners on my gear legs wrapped in glass, do I need
to remove this to install the brake line?
3. Do I need to order pre-made hoses or can I make my own?
4. Is aluminum tubbing better that steel braided? or is there something
better?
5. my brake lines basically are in the middle of the wood stiffeners.
Any help would be great...
Thanks,
Jason Sneed
Commercial Lending Officer
First National Bank and Trust
www.highland-parks.com/n242ds
=
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Knicholas2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Approach Systems Wiring Hub |
In a message dated 8/2/2004 7:07:51 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
diff(at)foothill.net writes:
I have reviewed the archives, and am looking to hear any new pros and cons
on the Approach Systems Wiring Hub from those who have had actual experience
with that system,
I have the approach systems hub and wiring. I bought one of the "early'
units and had some problems with their wiring bundles but they were terrific with
the customer support. At one point we could not diagnose the problem so a
local wiring guru from a wiring shop came out to the plane. We agreed that if
the problem was my fault, I would pay for the tech. If it was their problemn
Approach Systems would pay. The problem was in their wiring and they paid it
no questions asked. Would I use therir system again? ABSOLUTELY!!
Kim NIcholas
RV9A Flying
IFR panel.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: [RV10] It's all your fault! |
----- Original Message -----
From: "hasbrouckjohn" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com>
Subject: [RV10] It's all your fault!
> I told my wife that it's all your fault. You all seem to be having
> so much fun building a -10 that I figured I'd join in! I have loved
> Van's designs but found the 2 place too small for me. Promised
> myself if he ever offered a 4 place I'd build it. I've been
> following the group for some time and have been impressed with the
> lack of problems everyone seems to have building this plane. Must
> be a great kit, I thought, so with the family in tow off we went to
> OSH, arriving Saturday. No -10 to be found at Van's, out giving
> demo rides they told me, so I satisfied myself with sitting in the
> mockup. Finally saw the plane later in the day and now there's a
> smoking hole where my checkbook used to be! Buzz and Ida at
> Cleaveland Tools set me up with a tool kit and away we go! So if we
> meet sometime and my wife gives you a nasty look don't forget I told
> her it's all your fault!
Most excellent. This is best summary of this disease I have seen in awhile.
Another motivator or two:
At a fuel stop on the way to the Mason City, IA formation clinic and OSH in
my old 160HP CS prop RV4, a couple of guys walk up and one says to the
other, "Now this is what you should buy." Seems his buddy periodically gets
the hots for an RV and goes out looking. Guy one says, "would you mind
taking my buddy for a short ride?" I said, "sure let me put some gas in it,
check the weather, make a call, and then we'll go around the pattern." So
we prepare for a quick ride in a grossed out 4 with a big guy in the back,
some baggage and full fuel. On takeoff roll I hear a WOW! from the back
seat. A roll, a typical cruise power setting demo, high speed low approach
to a carrier break overhead approach and you guessed it, this guy is
infected.
Next day begins the second annual pre-OSH formation clinic hosted by warbird
pilot extrordinaire Doug Rozendalh, Falcon Flight Lead and FFI founder Stu
McCurdy and Team RV http://www2.mstewart.net:8080/teamrv/ lead Mike Stewart.
29 RVs flown by some of the nicest folks in the world show up for the
formation seminar. Sunday morning dawns crystal clear and, ho-hum, another
12 ship formation flight of RVs with a 13th P-51 is on the schedule. See
the pictures at Doug Reeves great RV sight:
http://www.vansairforce.net/calendarofthemonth/TeamRV2.jpg
Now the questions are: (1) will they let me fly formation with Team RV in an
RV10 or (2), how do you justify building a 10 when you already fly a 4.
Answer to 1 unknown, answer to 2, "Hun, now we can take the dog when we go
visit the kids."
One of the best kept secrets of the RV world is all the great people you
will meet flying around the country in your airplane.
Dick Sipp "Frogman"
RV 4 250DS
RV 10 110DV 40065
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: ICOM A200 Installation manual |
Hi,
The ICOM A200 installation manual is available here:
http://www.icomamerica.com/downloads/manuals.asp
Mickey
>If you would like a copy of the manual, I could make one for you and send it
>out snail mail. Just send me an address and I can get it out to you
>sometime this week.
>
>
>> I'm looking for an installation manual for this radio. I found the pinout
>> on Bob's website, but I was hoping for a little more detail.
>>
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Bibb" <rebibb(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ICOM A200 Installation manual |
That is only the instruction manual - not the installation manual.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: Re: RV-List: ICOM A200 Installation manual
>
> Hi,
>
> The ICOM A200 installation manual is available here:
>
> http://www.icomamerica.com/downloads/manuals.asp
>
> Mickey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: ICOM A200 Installation manual |
You are right - sorry about that. I'll have a look in
the shop to see if mine came with a separate installation
manual.
Mickey
>That is only the instruction manual - not the installation manual.
>
>>
>> The ICOM A200 installation manual is available here:
>>
>> http://www.icomamerica.com/downloads/manuals.asp
>>
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: ICOM A200 Installation manual |
Hi,
I found mine, and scanned it. Details here:
http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story 040803103538789
Mickey
>You are right - sorry about that. I'll have a look in
>the shop to see if mine came with a separate installation
>manual.
>
>>That is only the instruction manual - not the installation manual.
>>
>>>
>>> The ICOM A200 installation manual is available here:
>>>
>>> http://www.icomamerica.com/downloads/manuals.asp
>>>
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Brooks" <kenbrooks(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Award Winners at OSH |
Here's a link to the whole list of award winners at AirVenture. Congrats to
all the RV winners, and there are plenty! Did anyone get a photo of Lyle's
RV-8 that they'd like to send me? I didn't make it up there this year.
http://www.airventure.org/2004/monaug2/aircraft_awards.html
Ken Brooks
Roscoe, IL
Still Finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <EricHe(at)FlexSolPackaging.com> |
Is that Monty Barrett of Tulsa I see lurking on the RV list? If not don't anyone
read any further.
IF SO
I just want to tell people that Monty is a hell of an engine resource. Me and Charlie
Kuss rebuilt my IO-320-B1A and there were several times I couldn't find
parts. Monty is the guy that came through for me more than once. I'd consider
him the Bart Lalonde of the south. He builds lots of high performance acro types.
He doesn't know me from Adam, but went out of his way to help or swap any
way he could.
Don't know if he's been introduced or not, but I thought I'd pipe up and let it
be known that he's one hell of a resource and one hell of a nice guy to do business
with before some lister-know-it-all flames the hell out of him and runs
some more talent and resources off the list.
Thanks again Monty (of course assuming you are in fact THAT Monty)
Eric Henson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Bibb" <rebibb(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ICOM A200 Installation manual |
Attached is a couple of pages of an addendum that is most useful....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Among the living |
Purchased a RV-4 a few months ago. N42917
Purchased a tail kit for a RV-8 from Trade a Plane a few days ago
Ordered a QB kit just now.
Tools are next (got tools ?)
Finally pulled the triger.....feels good to be over that.
RV-4 N42917
RV-8 # 80533 awaiting tail QB ordered
1946 7ac Champ (85hp) N82766 (feels kinda slow now) (about to sell).
Sal Capra
Lakeland, FL
My Home Page
http://hometown.aol.com/cbrxxdrv/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Need help with brake lines |
-----Original Message-----
Jason Sneed
Subject: RV-List: Need help with brake lines
Obviously I have to get rid of the plastic hose on both sides my
questions are:
1. What type of hose to use?
Everyone I know has used the standard aluminum tubing Van provides down
the gear leg. The braided stainless can cause some serious wear if it
isn't totally isolated.
2. I have woods stiffeners on my gear legs wrapped in glass, do I need
to remove this to install the brake line?
There is no reason to as long as you can run and secure the lines
between the stiffeners and fairings.
3. Do I need to order pre-made hoses or can I make my own?
Make your own. You will need a 100 degree flaring tool and something to
help you make smooth bends. Freight Harbor has the metal sleeves and a
fancier bending tool for cheap.
4. Is aluminum tubbing better that steel braided? or is there something
better?
See above.
5. my brake lines basically are in the middle of the wood stiffeners.
They can stay there. Retro the new line outside the stiffeners.
Another consideration. I don't know how old your 6 is, but some people
have had problems with corrosion under their wooden gear stiffeners.
This happens when the gear leg is not adequately painted or the paint
gets scratched off. If this may be the case with yours, it may be best
to tear then off, treat the gear legs and reapply new gear stiffeners.
Ross Mickey
RV6A
N9PT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Sheared wingtip light covers |
Hi,
Van's recommends we install the VA-172 wingtip light covers
using two 6-32 screws and nutplates.
Does anyone have another method of mounting these?
I'm worried that the hole will crack and start lookin'
funky.
Thanks,
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Monty Barrett" <bpa(at)bpaengines.com> |
Yep, it is the same Monty. Thanks for the kind words.
I recently picked up a thread that had a quote from Mike Wolf of
Textron-Lycoming in it. Mike had stated that the 390 was the best
" Turbocharged, normally aspirated engine" Lycoming has had.
I cannot speak for Mr. Wolf but in his defense I am sure he meant
" fuel injected normally aspirated"------------. Mr. Wolf is most likely
under considerable corporate pressure at the present time and he either
spoke incorrectly or was mis-quoted. Either way, I agree with his
assessment of the I0-390-X engine. It gives equivalent power to the
high compression I0-360 engine without the inherent high cylinder pressures
and detonation tendencies the 10:1 engines have. The 390 is also a
counterweighted crankshaft engine and is extremely smooth running, according
to field reports we have from those fortunate enough to have a I0-390
installed and flying.
Monty Barrett, Sr.
Tulsa, Oklahoma
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
EricHe(at)FlexSolPackaging.com
Subject: RV-List: Hey Monty
Is that Monty Barrett of Tulsa I see lurking on the RV list? If not don't
anyone read any further.
IF SO
I just want to tell people that Monty is a hell of an engine resource. Me
and Charlie Kuss rebuilt my IO-320-B1A and there were several times I
couldn't find parts. Monty is the guy that came through for me more than
once. I'd consider him the Bart Lalonde of the south. He builds lots of high
performance acro types. He doesn't know me from Adam, but went out of his
way to help or swap any way he could.
Don't know if he's been introduced or not, but I thought I'd pipe up and let
it be known that he's one hell of a resource and one hell of a nice guy to
do business with before some lister-know-it-all flames the hell out of him
and runs some more talent and resources off the list.
Thanks again Monty (of course assuming you are in fact THAT Monty)
Eric Henson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Looking for -A1A Crankshaft |
Fellow listers,
I am looking for a used, airworthy, Lycoming IO-360-A1A crankshaft for an
engine I am overhauling to use in my RV-7A. I have made several phone calls and
it seems that these are hard to come by. Do any of you have any leads?
Please reply off-list so I get first crack at it!
Thanks,
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (Flying -- about 33 hours)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles E. Brame" <charleyb(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Approach Systems Wiring Hub |
Scott,
I have one of the Approach Systems Hubs installed, though it hasn't
flown yet. I like it and think it is worth the price, but it is not
without its problems.
I have a full IFR panel with autopilot. I was anticipating about 400+
hours of tedious wiring before I found Approach Systems. Their
installation was pretty simple, and only took a couple of hours to
completely install. I did have a couple of problems.
My panel design is a bit unique and my intercom panel (Apollo SL-10MS)
is way over on one side of the panel. Approach provided a standard
length cable (23 inches if memory serves me right) for all of the
avionics. The intercom cable (by far the biggest and most complex) as
supplied was too short. I returned it and they sent me a 42 inch cable
by return mail with no extra charge. No where in their literature could
I find a reference to a standard length inch cable.
Once installed, I found the intercom cable wired wrong. All of the
avionics cables were correct, but wires for the pilot and copilot
phones, mics and PTT were wired wrong. Again, they quickly replaced the
cable with no charge. Once the new cable was installed everything worked
as advertised on the first power up with no sparks or smoke. I have
since found that the external speaker wire (also part of the intercom
cable) is dead, but I am reluctant to pull the wiring apart again so it
will have to wait to get fixed.
Another advantage of the Approach Systems Hub is the ease of adding or
changing avionics. Even though I haven't flown yet, I already have some
avionics upgrades in mind for the future. Approach Systems will provide
new cables for additional avionics or upgrades at a nominal cost. I
think they even provide a refund for the old cables.
Pretty neat way of wiring avionics. Despite my problems, I recommend them.
Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB
San Antonio
-------------------------------------------
> From: "Scott Diffenbaugh" <diff(at)foothill.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Approach Systems Wiring Hub
>
>
> I have reviewed the archives, and am looking to hear any new pros and cons
> on the Approach Systems Wiring Hub from those who have had actual experience
> with that system, particularly involving IFR stacks and autopilots. So far
> I have only been able to find and converse with two users.
> Thank you,
>
> Scott Diffenbaugh-RV7A mostly complete except for instrument panel wiring
> diff(at)foothill.net
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
Monty,
Is the IO-390 a bored 360? A stroked 360 or some combination of the two?
What are the bore and stroke dimensions.
Charlie Kuss
Engine assembly assistant to the nameless :-)
>
>Yep, it is the same Monty. Thanks for the kind words.
>I recently picked up a thread that had a quote from Mike Wolf of
>Textron-Lycoming in it. Mike had stated that the 390 was the best
>" Turbocharged, normally aspirated engine" Lycoming has had.
>
>I cannot speak for Mr. Wolf but in his defense I am sure he meant
>" fuel injected normally aspirated"------------. Mr. Wolf is most likely
>under considerable corporate pressure at the present time and he either
>spoke incorrectly or was mis-quoted. Either way, I agree with his
>assessment of the I0-390-X engine. It gives equivalent power to the
>high compression I0-360 engine without the inherent high cylinder pressures
>and detonation tendencies the 10:1 engines have. The 390 is also a
>counterweighted crankshaft engine and is extremely smooth running, according
>to field reports we have from those fortunate enough to have a I0-390
>installed and flying.
>
>Monty Barrett, Sr.
>Tulsa, Oklahoma
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>EricHe(at)FlexSolPackaging.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Hey Monty
>
>
>Is that Monty Barrett of Tulsa I see lurking on the RV list? If not don't
>anyone read any further.
>
>IF SO
>
>I just want to tell people that Monty is a hell of an engine resource. Me
>and Charlie Kuss rebuilt my IO-320-B1A and there were several times I
>couldn't find parts. Monty is the guy that came through for me more than
>once. I'd consider him the Bart Lalonde of the south. He builds lots of high
>performance acro types. He doesn't know me from Adam, but went out of his
>way to help or swap any way he could.
>
>Don't know if he's been introduced or not, but I thought I'd pipe up and let
>it be known that he's one hell of a resource and one hell of a nice guy to
>do business with before some lister-know-it-all flames the hell out of him
>and runs some more talent and resources off the list.
>
>Thanks again Monty (of course assuming you are in fact THAT Monty)
>
>Eric Henson
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Approach Systems Wiring Hub |
FWIW, I have some first hand experience with their products. For those who
don't know, I (we-SteinAir) do a significant amount of custom wiring,
including complete panel wiring, including use of the Approach systems hubs.
Here's the deal in my experience.
If you're going with a huge IFR panel with Dual Nav/Coms (Dual 430's/530's,
VOR's, etc..) then their system is a lifesaver. They are a top notch
company, with top notch products, and wiring together dual radio stacks
costs a LOT of money.
That being said, if you're going with anything less, then it's frankly not
worth the money. If you look on the Vans Airforce website, you'll notice
one of their systems for sale from an individual who realized that the plug
and play cables just don't work well for a small customized panel. If you
use their system, you're stuck with a fairly generic type of installation,
and it allows little to no customization. Their system is very similar to
buying Van's wiring harness, only to realize that in order to use it you
have to do everything their way. A good share of people end up
"bastardizing" it.
Look at the comments below, and you'll see they basically echo what I've
said. One of the big downsides if using their system is you need to spend
at least $300.00 before you can do anything, then you need to buy all the
harnesses from them, including any future expansion/growth items. This is
fine for the huge IFR panels, but is not worth it for the normal RV panel.
Most of us like to have little things added into our wiring like FM/XM
radios, aux inputs/outputs, various warning lights, etc.. that just won't
work with their system. I know more than one person who has bought their
system, only to cut apart their cables and insert their own wiring, spending
more time and money than just doing it themselves.
Just to re-iterate, it is a fine system in use by many people, and I can
vouch for the company being first rate and top notch. I'm just saying that
it's really not worth it for the normal "sport" RV type panel. One last
thing to think about with the "hubs". Everything runs through a printed
circuit board in the hub, and if that thing gets fried, you could
"potentially" lose everything plugged into it. I'm not a huge fan of
running everything in my entire airplane through a potential single point of
failure, but that's just my personal opinion and worth what you paid for it.
Their marketing folks will tell you that will never happen, but I've seen it
happen with similar items (FMS's) on Boeings/Airbus etc..-that's why they
always have at least 2 of everything.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis.
PS...just ordered a new ECI -360 kit!!!!!!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Charles E. Brame
Subject: Re: RV-List: Approach Systems Wiring Hub
Scott,
I have one of the Approach Systems Hubs installed, though it hasn't
flown yet. I like it and think it is worth the price, but it is not
without its problems.
I have a full IFR panel with autopilot. I was anticipating about 400+
hours of tedious wiring before I found Approach Systems. Their
installation was pretty simple, and only took a couple of hours to
completely install. I did have a couple of problems.
My panel design is a bit unique and my intercom panel (Apollo SL-10MS)
is way over on one side of the panel. Approach provided a standard
length cable (23 inches if memory serves me right) for all of the
avionics. The intercom cable (by far the biggest and most complex) as
supplied was too short. I returned it and they sent me a 42 inch cable
by return mail with no extra charge. No where in their literature could
I find a reference to a standard length inch cable.
Once installed, I found the intercom cable wired wrong. All of the
avionics cables were correct, but wires for the pilot and copilot
phones, mics and PTT were wired wrong. Again, they quickly replaced the
cable with no charge. Once the new cable was installed everything worked
as advertised on the first power up with no sparks or smoke. I have
since found that the external speaker wire (also part of the intercom
cable) is dead, but I am reluctant to pull the wiring apart again so it
will have to wait to get fixed.
Another advantage of the Approach Systems Hub is the ease of adding or
changing avionics. Even though I haven't flown yet, I already have some
avionics upgrades in mind for the future. Approach Systems will provide
new cables for additional avionics or upgrades at a nominal cost. I
think they even provide a refund for the old cables.
Pretty neat way of wiring avionics. Despite my problems, I recommend them.
Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB
San Antonio
-------------------------------------------
> From: "Scott Diffenbaugh" <diff(at)foothill.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Approach Systems Wiring Hub
>
>
> I have reviewed the archives, and am looking to hear any new pros and cons
> on the Approach Systems Wiring Hub from those who have had actual
experience
> with that system, particularly involving IFR stacks and autopilots. So
far
> I have only been able to find and converse with two users.
> Thank you,
>
> Scott Diffenbaugh-RV7A mostly complete except for instrument panel wiring
> diff(at)foothill.net
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Papers on Cooling design |
I have a friend who is looking for any papers or articles on powerplant
cooling design. He's trying to diagnose some high cylinder problems on
a non RV airplane. I also have an interest in learning more about it.
Wasn't there a NASA grant to a South East university that published a
paper?
Any help would be appreciated.
Laird RV-6
SoCal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for -A1A Crankshaft |
Hopperdhh(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>Fellow listers,
>
>I am looking for a used, airworthy, Lycoming IO-360-A1A crankshaft for an
>engine I am overhauling to use in my RV-7A. I have made several phone calls and
>it seems that these are hard to come by. Do any of you have any leads?
>
>Please reply off-list so I get first crack at it!
>
>Thanks,
>
>Dan Hopper
>RV-7A (Flying -- about 33 hours)
>
Moldex will make you a billet crank for around $2,000. I have one in my
Pitts.
Linn
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Papers on Cooling design |
Laird Owens wrote:
>
>I have a friend who is looking for any papers or articles on powerplant
>cooling design. He's trying to diagnose some high cylinder problems on
>a non RV airplane. I also have an interest in learning more about it.
>
>Wasn't there a NASA grant to a South East university that published a
>paper?
>
>Any help would be appreciated.
>
>Laird RV-6
>SoCal
>
Info from another list seems to point to flashing from casting between
the cylinder fins. They've been there for a long time as old cylinders
show the problem as well as new. Pull the plugs and place a light below
the cylinders next to the plug hole. Look down between the fins
adjacent to the plug holes. Hope this helps!
Linn
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Among the living |
Hey there Sal,
I went from an Aeronca 7AC (85hp) to an RV-4. Don't the landings in the -4 just
spoil you? Nothing like the Champ in my opinion! Well, except they were both
fun airplanes!
CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com wrote:
Purchased a RV-4 a few months ago. N42917
Purchased a tail kit for a RV-8 from Trade a Plane a few days ago
Ordered a QB kit just now.
Tools are next (got tools ?)
Finally pulled the triger.....feels good to be over that.
RV-4 N42917
RV-8 # 80533 awaiting tail QB ordered
1946 7ac Champ (85hp) N82766 (feels kinda slow now) (about to sell).
Sal Capra
Lakeland, FL
My Home Page
http://hometown.aol.com/cbrxxdrv/index.html
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Among the living |
In a message dated 8/3/04 8:31:01 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
svanarts(at)yahoo.com writes:
> Hey there Sal,
> I went from an Aeronca 7AC (85hp) to an RV-4. Don't the landings in the -4
> just spoil you? Nothing like the Champ in my opinion! Well, except they
> were both fun airplanes!
>
The Champ by far is tougher to land than the 4. The 4 is a pussy cat.
The Champ is the first plane that I had to clean the bugs off the
trailing edge of the wing (Aeronca humor ) :)
Sal Capra
Lakeland, FL
My Home Page
http://hometown.aol.com/cbrxxdrv/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Approach Systems Wiring Hub |
I'm in agreement with you Stein, it wasn't that hard to wire up my plane. I went
with Knuckoll's design and it is simple and cheap to maintain. I did notice
on the AS website that they now have a "Sport" model.
FWIW, I have some first hand experience with their products. For those who
don't know, I (we-SteinAir) do a significant amount of custom wiring,
including complete panel wiring, including use of the Approach systems hubs.
Here's the deal in my experience.
If you're going with a huge IFR panel with Dual Nav/Coms (Dual 430's/530's,
VOR's, etc..) then their system is a lifesaver. They are a top notch
company, with top notch products, and wiring together dual radio stacks
costs a LOT of money.
That being said, if you're going with anything less, then it's frankly not
worth the money. If you look on the Vans Airforce website, you'll notice
one of their systems for sale from an individual who realized that the plug
and play cables just don't work well for a small customized panel. If you
use their system, you're stuck with a fairly generic type of installation,
and it allows little to no customization. Their system is very similar to
buying Van's wiring harness, only to realize that in order to use it you
have to do everything their way. A good share of people end up
"bastardizing" it.
Look at the comments below, and you'll see they basically echo what I've
said. One of the big downsides if using their system is you need to spend
at least $300.00 before you can do anything, then you need to buy all the
harnesses from them, including any future expansion/growth items. This is
fine for the huge IFR panels, but is not worth it for the normal RV panel.
Most of us like to have little things added into our wiring like FM/XM
radios, aux inputs/outputs, various warning lights, etc.. that just won't
work with their system. I know more than one person who has bought their
system, only to cut apart their cables and insert their own wiring, spending
more time and money than just doing it themselves.
Just to re-iterate, it is a fine system in use by many people, and I can
vouch for the company being first rate and top notch. I'm just saying that
it's really not worth it for the normal "sport" RV type panel. One last
thing to think about with the "hubs". Everything runs through a printed
circuit board in the hub, and if that thing gets fried, you could
"potentially" lose everything plugged into it. I'm not a huge fan of
running everything in my entire airplane through a potential single point of
failure, but that's just my personal opinion and worth what you paid for it.
Their marketing folks will tell you that will never happen, but I've seen it
happen with similar items (FMS's) on Boeings/Airbus etc..-that's why they
always have at least 2 of everything.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis.
PS...just ordered a new ECI -360 kit!!!!!!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Charles E. Brame
Subject: Re: RV-List: Approach Systems Wiring Hub
Scott,
I have one of the Approach Systems Hubs installed, though it hasn't
flown yet. I like it and think it is worth the price, but it is not
without its problems.
I have a full IFR panel with autopilot. I was anticipating about 400+
hours of tedious wiring before I found Approach Systems. Their
installation was pretty simple, and only took a couple of hours to
completely install. I did have a couple of problems.
My panel design is a bit unique and my intercom panel (Apollo SL-10MS)
is way over on one side of the panel. Approach provided a standard
length cable (23 inches if memory serves me right) for all of the
avionics. The intercom cable (by far the biggest and most complex) as
supplied was too short. I returned it and they sent me a 42 inch cable
by return mail with no extra charge. No where in their literature could
I find a reference to a standard length inch cable.
Once installed, I found the intercom cable wired wrong. All of the
avionics cables were correct, but wires for the pilot and copilot
phones, mics and PTT were wired wrong. Again, they quickly replaced the
cable with no charge. Once the new cable was installed everything worked
as advertised on the first power up with no sparks or smoke. I have
since found that the external speaker wire (also part of the intercom
cable) is dead, but I am reluctant to pull the wiring apart again so it
will have to wait to get fixed.
Another advantage of the Approach Systems Hub is the ease of adding or
changing avionics. Even though I haven't flown yet, I already have some
avionics upgrades in mind for the future. Approach Systems will provide
new cables for additional avionics or upgrades at a nominal cost. I
think they even provide a refund for the old cables.
Pretty neat way of wiring avionics. Despite my problems, I recommend them.
Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB
San Antonio
-------------------------------------------
> From: "Scott Diffenbaugh"
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Approach Systems Wiring Hub
>
>
> I have reviewed the archives, and am looking to hear any new pros and cons
> on the Approach Systems Wiring Hub from those who have had actual
experience
> with that system, particularly involving IFR stacks and autopilots. So
far
> I have only been able to find and converse with two users.
> Thank you,
>
> Scott Diffenbaugh-RV7A mostly complete except for instrument panel wiring
> diff(at)foothill.net
>
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Martin Hone" <mctrader(at)bigpond.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re : Papers on Cooling design |
Hi Laird,
I don't have anything fancy by way of cooling design info, although I did
design and fabricate a pressure plenum for my RV6, and can only suggest that
your friend consult the bible - Tony Bingelis's "Firewall Forward" or the
"Tony Bingellis on Engines" books
Cheers
Martin in Oz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Bibb" <rebibb(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Among the living |
I soloed in a Champ and I creit that airplane with teaching me how to fly.
I've flown a Champ, an RV-4, and a T6 and the Champ made me confident in all
three....
July 21, 2004 - August 03, 2004
RV-Archive.digest.vol-po