RV-Archive.digest.vol-pp
August 03, 2004 - August 11, 2004
----- Original Message -----
| From: | <CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Among the living |
>
> In a message dated 8/3/04 8:31:01 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> svanarts(at)yahoo.com writes:
>
>
> > Hey there Sal,
> > I went from an Aeronca 7AC (85hp) to an RV-4. Don't the landings in
the -4
> > just spoil you? Nothing like the Champ in my opinion! Well, except
they
> > were both fun airplanes!
> >
>
> The Champ by far is tougher to land than the 4. The 4 is a pussy cat.
> The Champ is the first plane that I had to clean the bugs off the
> trailing edge of the wing (Aeronca humor ) :)
>
> Sal Capra
> Lakeland, FL
> My Home Page
> http://hometown.aol.com/cbrxxdrv/index.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Sheared wingtip light covers |
In a message dated 08/03/2004 10:22:29 AM Central Standard Time,
mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch writes:
Van's recommends we install the VA-172 wingtip light covers
using two 6-32 screws and nutplates.
Does anyone have another method of mounting these?
I'm worried that the hole will crack and start lookin'
funky.
>>>>>>>>>>>>
I've seen quite a few of the covers installed as mentioned above (including
mine) without any negative results (so far). As far as funky, my whole
airplane looks that way- why not the tip lenses as well? 8-)
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Manifold Pressure Jitters |
My manifold pressure gage has a bad case of jitters and makes it nearly
unreadable. I think that if I added a snubber or a plug in the line with a small
orifice, that this would settle it done. Has anyone else experienced this?
Pat Long
PGLong(at)aol.com
N120PL
RV4
Bay City, Michigan
3CM
Do Not Archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | other plane plumbing source |
Add another fine source for all your plane plumbing needs. Earl's
Performance Plumbing
(A Holley Performance Brand) < www,earlsplumbing.com > Tech Line:
310-609-1602
Fine catalog even contains hose assembly instructions and illustrations.
Fittings blue and red anodized, plus cushioned tubing clamps alum, blue or
red. Here is one Wisconsin distributer-
W.M. Engineering, Stevens Point, Wi. Info: 715-342-1934 Fax: 715-342-1935
< www.coredes.com/~wmeng/ > E-mail < wmeng(at)coredes.com >
Jack, Twin Cities RV Wing
-8 engine hung
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Monty Barrett" <bpa(at)bpaengines.com> |
The I0-390-X bore is nominally 5.312 instead of 5.125 which is the bore of
the 360 and the 540. Stroke is the same.
Monty Barrett. Sr.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie Kuss
Subject: RE: RV-List: Hey Monty
Monty,
Is the IO-390 a bored 360? A stroked 360 or some combination of the two?
What are the bore and stroke dimensions.
Charlie Kuss
Engine assembly assistant to the nameless :-)
>
>Yep, it is the same Monty. Thanks for the kind words.
>I recently picked up a thread that had a quote from Mike Wolf of
>Textron-Lycoming in it. Mike had stated that the 390 was the best
>" Turbocharged, normally aspirated engine" Lycoming has had.
>
>I cannot speak for Mr. Wolf but in his defense I am sure he meant
>" fuel injected normally aspirated"------------. Mr. Wolf is most likely
>under considerable corporate pressure at the present time and he either
>spoke incorrectly or was mis-quoted. Either way, I agree with his
>assessment of the I0-390-X engine. It gives equivalent power to the
>high compression I0-360 engine without the inherent high cylinder pressures
>and detonation tendencies the 10:1 engines have. The 390 is also a
>counterweighted crankshaft engine and is extremely smooth running,
according
>to field reports we have from those fortunate enough to have a I0-390
>installed and flying.
>
>Monty Barrett, Sr.
>Tulsa, Oklahoma
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>EricHe(at)FlexSolPackaging.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Hey Monty
>
>
>Is that Monty Barrett of Tulsa I see lurking on the RV list? If not don't
>anyone read any further.
>
>IF SO
>
>I just want to tell people that Monty is a hell of an engine resource. Me
>and Charlie Kuss rebuilt my IO-320-B1A and there were several times I
>couldn't find parts. Monty is the guy that came through for me more than
>once. I'd consider him the Bart Lalonde of the south. He builds lots of
high
>performance acro types. He doesn't know me from Adam, but went out of his
>way to help or swap any way he could.
>
>Don't know if he's been introduced or not, but I thought I'd pipe up and
let
>it be known that he's one hell of a resource and one hell of a nice guy to
>do business with before some lister-know-it-all flames the hell out of him
>and runs some more talent and resources off the list.
>
>Thanks again Monty (of course assuming you are in fact THAT Monty)
>
>Eric Henson
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Manifold Pressure Jitters |
I have a permanent case of the jitters even with a small (I forget how small) restrictor
orifice in the line... it varies +/- 0.5 in Hg or so in flight... I
just learned to get used to it and eyeball a moving average.
Grand Rapids EIS in use: model 2002.
-Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Brick" <jbrick(at)wolfenet.com> |
| Subject: | looking for a flared tube fitting whadaya call it |
Mike,
I have four 90's and one 45. All aluminum -6s. Never used. They are made to
go onto another AN flared fitting and swivel to any angle for flared tube
connection (or another swivel). I got them at Williams Oil Filter Service
Company (WOFSCO) in Tacoma. At today's WOFSCO prices, they are $16.72 each
for 90's and $17.35 for the 45. Aeroquip part numbers are FBM4032 and
FBM4022 respectively. I think I bought them for about $12 each and you can
have them at that price.
jb
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Stewart, Michael
> (ISS Atlanta)
> Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 2004 6:57 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: looking for a flared tube fitting whadaya call it
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Re : Papers on Cooling design |
Thanks Martin. I'll take a look.
On Aug 3, 2004, at 6:36 PM, Martin Hone wrote:
>
> Hi Laird,
>
> I don't have anything fancy by way of cooling design info, although I
> did
> design and fabricate a pressure plenum for my RV6, and can only
> suggest that
> your friend consult the bible - Tony Bingelis's "Firewall Forward" or
> the
> "Tony Bingellis on Engines" books
>
> Cheers
>
> Martin in Oz
>
>
> _-
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> _-
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> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Papers on Cooling design |
Thanks Linn. I'll have him take a look.
Laird
On Aug 3, 2004, at 3:13 PM, linn walters wrote:
>
> Laird Owens wrote:
>
>>
>> I have a friend who is looking for any papers or articles on
>> powerplant
>> cooling design. He's trying to diagnose some high cylinder problems
>> on
>> a non RV airplane. I also have an interest in learning more about
>> it.
>>
>> Wasn't there a NASA grant to a South East university that published a
>> paper?
>>
>> Any help would be appreciated.
>>
>> Laird RV-6
>> SoCal
>>
> Info from another list seems to point to flashing from casting between
> the cylinder fins. They've been there for a long time as old cylinders
> show the problem as well as new. Pull the plugs and place a light
> below
> the cylinders next to the plug hole. Look down between the fins
> adjacent to the plug holes. Hope this helps!
> Linn
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> _-
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> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bhuk(at)earthlink.net |
| Subject: | Re: Report on the Trio Autopilot. |
Michael,
I'm assuming you have the VFD display on your Trio. Have you seen a direct comparison
between the VFD and LCD displays?
I'm considering one for my -4.
Thanks,
Bruce Hukari
-
So Ive been flying this Trio Autopilot for several hundred hours now and
I thought I'd give the group an update. Recently they have added some
new features with include a skid ball, and software enhancements. This
is a remarkable little unit. When I look at my panel and the gismo's I
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Report on the Trio Autopilot. |
bhuk(at)earthlink.net wrote:
>
> Michael,
>
> I'm assuming you have the VFD display on your Trio. Have you seen a direct comparison
> between the VFD and LCD displays?
> I'm considering one for my -4.
> Thanks,
>
> Bruce Hukari
Bruce, you want the LCD display in any RV. I have flown both versions of
the EZ-Pilot and the LCD display is much more usable than the VFD under
the big RV canopies.
I, like Mike, am a very satisfied EZ-Pilot customer and consider the
unit to be one of the most valuable features of the panel in my RV-6.
Sam Buchanan
http://thervjournel.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Brown" <nightmare(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Instrument Panel |
For you guys that went to OSH. I saw, in the pic's from Avweb, a very modern looking instrument panel that was really great. It was made from f'glass with a center consol and was absolutly beautiful. Does anyone know who the manufacturer is." If it come through, the pic is the 8th row down at http://www.avweb.com/news/osh2004/187826-1.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Slider canopy rails |
Hi,
Are people typically getting the canopy rails anodized,
or doing something else to protect them? Also, what
about the rear track for the canopy? Seems like anything
you do to it will rub off eventually...
Thanks,
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Hiers" <craig_rv4(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Panel |
Take a look at page 28 in the January issue of Sport Aviation. I think it is
the same panel.
Craig Hiers
Tifton,GA.
> For you guys that went to OSH. I saw, in the pic's from Avweb, a very
modern looking instrument panel that was really great. It was made from
f'glass with a center consol and was absolutly beautiful. Does anyone know
who the manufacturer is." If it come through, the pic is the 8th row down at
http://www.avweb.com/news/osh2004/187826-1.html
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Schipper <mike(at)learningplanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Panel |
Yes, I liked it a lot too. It was being displayed by Aerotronics.
(www.aerotronics.com)
They also had a really nice looking panel with an American Flag
silkscreened on the non-fiberglass areas.
Mike Schipper
www.my9a.com
On Aug 4, 2004, at 1:48 PM, Paul Brown wrote:
For you guys that went to OSH. I saw, in the pic's from Avweb, a very
modern looking instrument panel that was really great. It was made from
f'glass with a center consol and was absolutly beautiful. Does anyone
know who the manufacturer is." If it come through, the pic is the 8th
row down at http://www.avweb.com/news/osh2004/187826-1.html
_-
=======================================================================
_-
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_-
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_-
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Panel |
Well, I zoomed in on the photo, and the company name looks
like Aerotronics. Could be these guys:
http://www.aerotronics.com/experimental_kitpanels.asp
Mickey
>For you guys that went to OSH. I saw, in the pic's from Avweb,
>a very modern looking instrument panel that was really great.
>It was made from f'glass with a center consol and was absolutly
>beautiful. Does anyone know who the manufacturer is." If it come
>through, the pic is the 8th row down at
> http://www.avweb.com/news/osh2004/187826-1.html
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne @ Aircraft Engravers" <wayne(at)engravers.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Panel |
Paul,
I know the company that made those panels. The company is Aerotronics, Inc.
(406) 259-5006. They make great panels, I know because we do a lot of work
for them including their rocker switches. View
http://engravers.net/main/ac_products.htm to see some of the work we do.
I zoomed in on the lower left corner of the stand to confirm I was right,
see http://engravers.net/temppage.htm for a close up.
Wayne Cahoon
Aircraft Engravers
(860) 653-2780
(860) 653-7324 Fax
http://www.engravers.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Brown" <nightmare(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: RV-List: Instrument Panel
>
> For you guys that went to OSH. I saw, in the pic's from Avweb, a very
modern looking instrument panel that was really great. It was made from
f'glass with a center consol and was absolutly beautiful. Does anyone know
who the manufacturer is." If it come through, the pic is the 8th row down at
http://www.avweb.com/news/osh2004/187826-1.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Report on the Trio Autopilot. |
| From: | "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net> |
No I have the new LCD screen. I have the upgraded (LCD) screen now. I
started with the original(VFD). And I can tell you the VFD screen is not
readable AT ALL in direct sunlight, the lcd is quite readable in direct
sunlight. As a result of direct feedback from the field, the optional
LCD screen was added, and I immediately upgraded. DO NOT put the VFD in
your RV, put the LCD in there and you will be pleased with the sunlight
results.
Mike
Oh and someone asked about the website. www.trioavionics.com
Enjoy.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
bhuk(at)earthlink.net
Subject: Re: RV-List: Report on the Trio Autopilot.
Michael,
I'm assuming you have the VFD display on your Trio. Have you seen a
direct comparison
between the VFD and LCD displays?
I'm considering one for my -4.
Thanks,
Bruce Hukari
-
So Ive been flying this Trio Autopilot for several hundred hours now and
I thought I'd give the group an update. Recently they have added some
new features with include a skid ball, and software enhancements. This
is a remarkable little unit. When I look at my panel and the gismo's I
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cory Emberson" <bootless(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Instrument Panel |
Wayne,
I have to second your compliments about the nice folks at Aerotronics. At
OSH, I visited their booth and when I said that I loved Billings, they
enthusiastically invited me to come see the factory any time, and were very
clear that they LOVE aviation. Martin spent quite a bit of time with me,
explaining the modular panel for the RV-10 - it was a delight. Excellent
quality workmanship, excellent customer relations.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Wayne @ Aircraft
Engravers
Subject: Re: RV-List: Instrument Panel
Paul,
I know the company that made those panels. The company is Aerotronics, Inc.
(406) 259-5006. They make great panels, I know because we do a lot of work
for them including their rocker switches. View
http://engravers.net/main/ac_products.htm to see some of the work we do.
I zoomed in on the lower left corner of the stand to confirm I was right,
see http://engravers.net/temppage.htm for a close up.
Wayne Cahoon
Aircraft Engravers
(860) 653-2780
(860) 653-7324 Fax
http://www.engravers.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Brown" <nightmare(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: RV-List: Instrument Panel
>
> For you guys that went to OSH. I saw, in the pic's from Avweb, a very
modern looking instrument panel that was really great. It was made from
f'glass with a center consol and was absolutly beautiful. Does anyone know
who the manufacturer is." If it come through, the pic is the 8th row down at
http://www.avweb.com/news/osh2004/187826-1.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Shemp" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Manifold Pressure Jitters |
I have a restrictor in mine and dont have any jitters. One of the Bingellis
books recommends this.
Shemp
----- Original Message -----
From: <PGLong(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Manifold Pressure Jitters
>
> My manifold pressure gage has a bad case of jitters and makes it nearly
> unreadable. I think that if I added a snubber or a plug in the line with a
small
> orifice, that this would settle it done. Has anyone else experienced this?
>
> Pat Long
> PGLong(at)aol.com
> N120PL
> RV4
> Bay City, Michigan
> 3CM
>
> Do Not Archive
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Shemp" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Slider canopy rails |
Ive seen 3 approaches.
1. Leave it alone. It never really changes.
2. Paint it. Repair chips...........
3. Polish it. Looks really nice.
I havent seen one anodized yet. Should look nice though.
Shemp
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: RV-List: Slider canopy rails
>
> Hi,
>
> Are people typically getting the canopy rails anodized,
> or doing something else to protect them? Also, what
> about the rear track for the canopy? Seems like anything
> you do to it will rub off eventually...
>
> Thanks,
> Mickey
>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vic Jacko" <vicwj(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Manifold Pressure Jitters |
I believe if you use only one cylinder for the tap you will get the
"jitters"
If you were to tap the whole manifold it would probably be a little better.
The small orifice is the best answer. Start with a small orifice then
enlarge if required.
Vic
----- Original Message -----
From: "Shemp" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Manifold Pressure Jitters
>
> I have a restrictor in mine and dont have any jitters. One of the
Bingellis
> books recommends this.
>
> Shemp
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <PGLong(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Manifold Pressure Jitters
>
>
> >
> > My manifold pressure gage has a bad case of jitters and makes it nearly
> > unreadable. I think that if I added a snubber or a plug in the line with
a
> small
> > orifice, that this would settle it done. Has anyone else experienced
this?
> >
> > Pat Long
> > PGLong(at)aol.com
> > N120PL
> > RV4
> > Bay City, Michigan
> > 3CM
> >
> > Do Not Archive
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Martin Hone" <mctrader(at)bigpond.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Slider canopy rails |
Hi Mickey,
I had my RV6 canopy side rails anodised in a natural silver and they have
proved very durable. It depends on your paint scheme as to whether you want
to match them or not. I didn't anodise the rear rail as it was in place
earlier, and I certainly wouldn't paint it. If I had the opportunity again,
I would have hard anodised the rear rail as it is scuffing up the alloy
where the nylon block slides across the top.
Cheers
Martin in Oz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sam Buchanan Letter in Sport Aviation |
Pat Hatch wrote:
>
> Sam,
>
> Congratulations on your excellent letter in the August SA. I think
> you expressed the sentiments of the majority of homebuilders. Thanks
> for setting the record straight!
>
> Pat Hatch
Thanks, Pat!
I haven't received my copy yet so am interested to see how the letter
survived the editor's blue pen. :-)
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Manifold Pressure Jitters |
> The small orifice is the best answer. Start with a small
> orifice then enlarge if required.
>
Also, have the orifice near the cylinder, with some volume of tubing
between the orifice and the sender. This will create the maximum
damping. No big deal if the MAP indication is delayed a second or two.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 509 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
RV FLY-IN PICNIC/CAMPING, western Wisconsin, September 10, 11 and 12.
Details to follow.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
| Subject: | Oregon Aero Seats |
I tried the Oregon Aero seats for my RV6A at Oshkosh and am interested...I
got an e-mail response from OE re upholstery availability, but somehow
deleted the message without fully digesting it.
Can someone who has recently purchased their seats tell me what they cost
you with OE's upholstery?
Thanks.
John n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Davis" <rvpilot(at)access4less.net> |
Does anybody that went to OSH know if the Continental IO-360 powered RV-10 made
it?
Thanks, Bill , RV-8 Tiger-Kat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Slider canopy rails |
Both mine are bare naked. Occasionally they get a little attention with the
scotchbrite pad.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mickey Coggins [mailto:mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch]
> Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 2004 3:34 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Slider canopy rails
>
>
>
> Hi,
>
> Are people typically getting the canopy rails anodized,
> or doing something else to protect them? Also, what
> about the rear track for the canopy? Seems like anything
> you do to it will rub off eventually...
>
> Thanks,
> Mickey
>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>
>
> ===========
> Matronics Forums.
> ===========
> ===========
> ===========
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com> |
Bill:
No, only the prototype RV10 was there to my knowledge.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P (reserved)
Firewall forward etc
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Davis" <rvpilot(at)access4less.net>
Subject: RV-List: Oshkosh
>
> Does anybody that went to OSH know if the Continental IO-360 powered RV-10
made it?
>
> Thanks, Bill , RV-8 Tiger-Kat
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
Jeff is correct, only the original 10 made it. I believe the second one
is O-470 powered, haven't heard of a 360 powered one in the works.
Jeff Point
RV-6- The last RV to leave Oshkosh
Milwaukee WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oregon Aero Seats |
When I looked into them last year, they were asking $675 per seat for
fabric upholstery. I would recommend you contact Abby at Flightline
Interiors as she does very good upholstery work, including covering
Oregon Aero seats, for way less than the factory. Oh, and I highly
recommend the seats. Heavy and $$$ but very comfortable.
http://my.execpc.com/~erdmannb/
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Manifold Pressure Jitters |
I have a "droop loop" with an accumulator/surge chamber (it was an in
line fuel filter in a previous life).
I guess that's not clear to most. I put a droop in the MP line so that
the indicator is higher. The in automotive in line gas filter, at the
low point in the line, provides a place for any fluid to accumulate
and also gives a chamber to collect any pressure surges. I unhook the
filter at annual time and blow it out. Since I did this some years
ago, the MP gage has behaved in a very gentlemanly fashion.
Denis RV-6A, direct read gage.
On Aug 4, 2004, at 3:37 PM, Vic Jacko wrote:
>
> I believe if you use only one cylinder for the tap you will get the
> "jitters"
>
> If you were to tap the whole manifold it would probably be a little
> better.
>
> The small orifice is the best answer. Start with a small orifice then
> enlarge if required.
>
> Vic
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Shemp" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Manifold Pressure Jitters
>
>
>>
>> I have a restrictor in mine and dont have any jitters. One of the
> Bingellis
>> books recommends this.
>>
>> Shemp
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: <PGLong(at)aol.com>
>> To:
>> Subject: RV-List: Manifold Pressure Jitters
>>
>>
>>>
>>> My manifold pressure gage has a bad case of jitters and makes it
>>> nearly
>>> unreadable. I think that if I added a snubber or a plug in the line
>>> with
> a
>> small
>>> orifice, that this would settle it done. Has anyone else experienced
> this?
>>>
>>> Pat Long
>>> PGLong(at)aol.com
>>> N120PL
>>> RV4
>>> Bay City, Michigan
>>> 3CM
>>>
>>> Do Not Archive
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Travis Hamblen" <TravisHamblen(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | 3M scotch brite for dremel |
I am looking for a source of scotch-brite wheels for my Dremel tool. I
found a guy selling some on e-bay, but dont want a case of 50 of them! Any
good internet sources for these things?
Travis
RV-7A Empennage DONE! (waiting for QB kit to ship)
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Slider canopy rails |
In a message dated 8/4/2004 12:34:55 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch writes:
Are people typically getting the canopy rails anodized,
or doing something else to protect them? Also, what
about the rear track for the canopy?
============================
My canopy rails are anodized per MIL-A-8625, Type 2, Class 2 Black and the
rear track and spacer are anodized per MIL-A-8625, Type 2, Class 1 Clear. The
black will fade into a deep violet after a few years, but the clear looks
good as new.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 708 hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Eastham <eastham(at)netapp.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 3M scotch brite for dremel |
Several of my local OSH hardware stores carry them. They are expensive
though! (~ $10 ?)
I've gotten by with sandpaper disks, myself (and a bench-grinder
scotchbrite, of course...). You can make em at home if you're
cheap like me.
Paul
http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
RV-9A about to start plumbing the fuselage
>
> I am looking for a source of scotch-brite wheels for my Dremel tool. I
> found a guy selling some on e-bay, but dont want a case of 50 of them! Any
> good internet sources for these things?
>
> Travis
> RV-7A Empennage DONE! (waiting for QB kit to ship)
>
> ---
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oregon Aero Seats |
I have been in the market also and talked to the guys at Classic Aero. The also
have some cool new side panels.
http://www.classicaerodesigns.com/RV79SidePanels.htm
Karie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Point" <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oregon Aero Seats
>
> When I looked into them last year, they were asking $675 per seat for
> fabric upholstery. I would recommend you contact Abby at Flightline
> Interiors as she does very good upholstery work, including covering
> Oregon Aero seats, for way less than the factory. Oh, and I highly
> recommend the seats. Heavy and $$$ but very comfortable.
>
> http://my.execpc.com/~erdmannb/
>
> Jeff Point
> RV-6
> Milwaukee WI
>
>
> >
> >
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oregon Aero Seats |
I purchased my seats last year after visiting their booth at AirVenture 03. First
Oregon Aero sent one foam core to try out in my cockpit and after closing the
canopy with headsets on etc., I decided I wanted the core elevated 2 inches
and also wanted the side bolsters built up to give the seat(s) a more contoured
look. I ordered the foam cores covered in Cassini leather using french stitching,
and with matching stick boots. The core was sent back with my notes and
despite a 6 week delivery promise, the order did take about 10 weeks. No complaints
about the comfort and quality of the product which is top notch but alas,
all this come with a price....1.1K per seat. I think the leather Oregon Aero
uses is chemically treated to be fire resistant and is FAA approved, so that
certainly would contribute to the cost.
Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
I tried the Oregon Aero seats for my RV6A at Oshkosh and am interested...I
got an e-mail response from OE re upholstery availability, but somehow
deleted the message without fully digesting it.
Can someone who has recently purchased their seats tell me what they cost
you with OE's upholstery?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Hultzapple" <thultzap(at)rochester.rr.com> |
Is it safe to use silicon based RTV sealer on the canopy. Will it craze? If
not, what should I be using?
Ted
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-10 Engines (was Oshkosh) |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
The first prototype (powered by a 260 HP Lyc IO-540) was there.
The second factory plane is powered by a 210 HP TCM IO-360-ES and is not
yet flying. Folks at Vans said probably late August or so for that one.
During the RV-10 forum it was stated that it wasn't practical to go
with an O-470 or larger TCM engine due to the engineering required.
When pressed, Van said that it just wasn't in the cards.
Bob
RV-10 #40105
>
Jeff is correct, only the original 10 made it. I believe the
second one
is O-470 powered, haven't heard of a 360 powered one in the
works.
Jeff Point
RV-6- The last RV to leave Oshkosh
Milwaukee WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:Taking apart a rivet gun |
Taking Keries suggestion a little farther; give it a big shot of Marvel
Mystery Oil and exercise it a bit. That is the only oil I use in my rivet guns
and
I like to use more than a few drops. I've built two RV-4's and helped on
several others with them,so far.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RTV on canopy |
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
I used Lexel. It seems to work well.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Ted Hultzapple said:
>
>
> Is it safe to use silicon based RTV sealer on the canopy. Will it craze?
> If
> not, what should I be using?
> Ted
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oregon Aero Seats |
> price....1.1K per seat. I think the leather Oregon Aero uses
> is chemically treated to be fire resistant and is FAA
> approved, so that certainly would contribute to the cost.
Not really. Your costs lie elsewhere. Leather will inherently pass the burn
tests as will 100% wool. No treatment required.
Greg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Strobe Power Supply Discussion... |
rv-8(at)yahoogroups.com, RV10(at)yahoogroups.com
Hi all...
With all the discussions on strobe power supplies going on lately, and with
the emails I received with questions about my power paks, I got some info
from my engineer on what makes my power paks (and the Whelen power supplies)
different from the automotive power supplies that are available...
As you may know, I contracted Nova to engineer and build my power paks, and
so I asked them for a comparison between my AVIPAK and their most popular
auto power pak; the XPAK604... I can get more detailed info if necessary...
"The AVIPAK has much larger discharge capacitors than the standard XPAK604.
The AVIPAK also charges the caps to a higher voltage level.
The flash rate is also much lower. This allows the AVIPAK to deliver much
higher energy discharges to the strobe heads.
The Max energy discharge from an XPAK604 is 11.5 Joules. The AVIPAK can
deliver a 27.66 Joule energy discharge!
The AVIPAK also has a beefier filter circuit on the input connection. This
makes it a bit quieter on the +12V line and will reduce RFI."
As I know it's a simple comparison, but there are significant differences...
Whelen's power supplies are very close to mine in power output, although
mine are a bit more... My power paks have a MUCH more modern design to them
to include the technology in the discharge capacitors, MOSFET circuitry for
cool and quiet operation, EMI/RFI Filtering, reverse polarity protection,
over-voltage/absent flashtube protection, tube de-ionization circuit to
prolong flashtube life, microprocessor controlled double and quadruple flash
patterns, and input surge protection...
I may be a bit biased, but I don't think you can get a better power pak...
;)
Hope this helps some of you that had questions.....oh, and soon I will have
individual power supplies for those of you that don't like the single power
supply configuration...
Thanks!
-Bill VonDane
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
Let me publicly state my gratitude to Jeff Point for all his support to the
RV crowd in general and to me in particular at Oshkosh.
He and his "sidekicks" we always RIGHT ON THE SPOT in moving and assisting
us. I had the chance to come in (and one time fly with) Falcon Flight and
Team RV (more on that later).
Jeff and his team made a point to make sure that we and other RVs were given
the best of treatment and always in a cordial manner.
He went out of his way to help me check my radios that got drenched from the
rainstorm (tip-up closed but not SEALED against the rain).
He even helped with my little "problem" on taxi out for the flight. (no need
to repeat what that was Jeff ;-) ).
And when a couple of P51's were pulled out in from of the "Flight of 12"
RVs, he and his team were visibly disgusted that someone had "cut in front"
of **his team**.
Finally, as I prepared to leave, one of his crew members stopped by and
waited, to make sure all was OK and cleared my out. I flet like I was among
family. I guess in fact I was.
My hat is off to you Jeff and the crew.
James
N996PJ "Papa Juliette"
p.s. And he flew his new RV in to OSH as well.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jeff Point
> Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 2004 10:18 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Oshkosh
>
>
> Jeff is correct, only the original 10 made it. I believe the second one
> is O-470 powered, haven't heard of a 360 powered one in the works.
>
> Jeff Point
> RV-6- The last RV to leave Oshkosh
> Milwaukee WI
>
>
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com> |
| Subject: | Off-Topic: Airport Improvements |
I've recently moved to a small (pop: 12,000) rural community that has a
somewhat neglected airport. The city has taken advantage of FAA grants to
improve the runway and taxiways but hasn't spent any money in 40 years to
making improvements to the terminal facilities and hangars. The airport has
4 T-hangars and one community hangar that holds 7 or 8 planes (one door!)
The FBO office is 600 sf!
I'd like to correspond with anyone offline who has some experience in
dealing with City Commissions/Goverment in getting them to understand the
value the airport brings to the city and to make necessary improvements.
Thanks. Apologize for the off-topic post but there is a wealth of knowledge
and experience in the RV community that I'd like to take advantage of!
Matthew
Van's RV-9A (Fuselage)
EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cory Emberson" <bootless(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Off-Topic: Airport Improvements |
Hi Matthew,
I have a little experience (from a contracting point of view - I do their
minutes) with several planning commissions in the Bay Area and would be
happy to share what I've heard. I've never appeared before them, but have
heard plenty.
I'm on deadline with one of them right now, but if you don't hear from me by
tomorrow, just nudge me. :-)
best, Cory
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Matthew Brandes
Subject: RV-List: Off-Topic: Airport Improvements
I've recently moved to a small (pop: 12,000) rural community that has a
somewhat neglected airport. The city has taken advantage of FAA grants to
improve the runway and taxiways but hasn't spent any money in 40 years to
making improvements to the terminal facilities and hangars. The airport has
4 T-hangars and one community hangar that holds 7 or 8 planes (one door!)
The FBO office is 600 sf!
I'd like to correspond with anyone offline who has some experience in
dealing with City Commissions/Goverment in getting them to understand the
value the airport brings to the city and to make necessary improvements.
Thanks. Apologize for the off-topic post but there is a wealth of knowledge
and experience in the RV community that I'd like to take advantage of!
Matthew
Van's RV-9A (Fuselage)
EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe Power Supply Discussion... |
rv-8(at)yahoogroups.com, RV10(at)yahoogroups.com
Hey Charlie...
Actually that's not exactly true... I just talked to my Nova Engineer on
the phone and he told me the XPAK904/906 does not have the intensity of the
AVIPAK... I'll try to explain it... This info came straight from him...
Think in terms of 1 quad flash burst to both wingtips at the same time:
The 904/906 will output about 36 joules TOTAL from the quad burst, times 2
wingtips = about 72 joules total...
The AVIPAK will output about 41 joules TOTAL from the quad burst, times 2
wingtips = about 82 joules total...
Although the AVIPAK has a lower "output rating in watts" than the 904/906,
the flash rate is also much lower which allows more time to charge a LARGER
bank of capacitors (25% larger than the 904/906), and the AVIPAK charges the
capacitors to a higher voltage at 550 volts, compared to the 904/906 which
only charges it's capacitors to 500 volts... More time to charge, higher
voltage, and larger capacitor bank directly relates to more joules and a
higher intensity flash...
The lower "output rating in watts" of the AVIPAK also means less draw on
your electrical system, 5.5A @ 12.8V for the AVIPAK vs. 8.5A @ 12.8V for the
904/906... Bigger flash with less amps!
Hope this helps...
-Bill VonDane
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charles Kuss" <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [VAF Mailing List] Strobe Power Supply Discussion...
Bill
Try comparing your unit to Nova's 904 model and all
your "alledged" superiority goes right out the window.
Charlie Kuss
--- Bill VonDane wrote:
> Hi all...
>
> With all the discussions on strobe power supplies
> going on lately, and with
> the emails I received with questions about my power
> paks, I got some info
> from my engineer on what makes my power paks (and
> the Whelen power supplies)
> different from the automotive power supplies that
> are available...
>
> As you may know, I contracted Nova to engineer and
> build my power paks, and
> so I asked them for a comparison between my AVIPAK
> and their most popular
> auto power pak; the XPAK604... I can get more
> detailed info if necessary...
>
> "The AVIPAK has much larger discharge capacitors
> than the standard XPAK604.
> The AVIPAK also charges the caps to a higher voltage
> level.
> The flash rate is also much lower. This allows the
> AVIPAK to deliver much
> higher energy discharges to the strobe heads.
> The Max energy discharge from an XPAK604 is 11.5
> Joules. The AVIPAK can
> deliver a 27.66 Joule energy discharge!
> The AVIPAK also has a beefier filter circuit on the
> input connection. This
> makes it a bit quieter on the +12V line and will
> reduce RFI."
>
> As I know it's a simple comparison, but there are
> significant differences...
> Whelen's power supplies are very close to mine in
> power output, although
> mine are a bit more... My power paks have a MUCH
> more modern design to them
> to include the technology in the discharge
> capacitors, MOSFET circuitry for
> cool and quiet operation, EMI/RFI Filtering, reverse
> polarity protection,
> over-voltage/absent flashtube protection, tube
> de-ionization circuit to
> prolong flashtube life, microprocessor controlled
> double and quadruple flash
> patterns, and input surge protection...
>
> I may be a bit biased, but I don't think you can get
> a better power pak...
> ;)
>
> Hope this helps some of you that had
> questions.....oh, and soon I will have
> individual power supplies for those of you that
> don't like the single power
> supply configuration...
>
> Thanks!
>
> -Bill VonDane
> EAA Tech Counselor
> RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
> www.vondane.com
> www.creativair.com
> www.epanelbuilder.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Slider canopy rails |
Mickey,
We anodized our rails but it was more for looks than protection. and for
the aft slider protection we put some of the UHMW tape on the underside of
the canopy itself where it comes in contact with the fuselage. So far that
has worked well in keeping the scuff marks down. Only time will tell how
well it holds up.
Mike Robertson
>From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Slider canopy rails
>Date: Wed, 04 Aug 2004 21:33:40 +0200
>
>
>Hi,
>
>Are people typically getting the canopy rails anodized,
>or doing something else to protect them? Also, what
>about the rear track for the canopy? Seems like anything
>you do to it will rub off eventually...
>
>Thanks,
>Mickey
>
>--
>Mickey Coggins
>http://www.rv8.ch/
>#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>
>
Discover the best of the best at MSN Luxury Living. http://lexus.msn.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
No, It is still a couple of weeks from getting inspected and certificated.
They want it ready for the Homecoming though.
Mike Robertson
>From: "William Davis" <rvpilot(at)access4less.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "RV-List"
>Subject: RV-List: Oshkosh
>Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2004 21:04:10 -0400
>
>
>Does anybody that went to OSH know if the Continental IO-360 powered RV-10
>made it?
>
>Thanks, Bill , RV-8 Tiger-Kat
>
>
Discover the best of the best at MSN Luxury Living. http://lexus.msn.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Off-Topic: Airport Improvements |
Mat,
You may want to try getting ahold of Randall Henderen here in Oregon. He
has worked extensively with the Seaside Airport folks to get them FAA grant
money and improve the airport there. His contact info can be found at the
EAA Chapter 105 website.
Mike Robertson
>From: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Off-Topic: Airport Improvements Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2004
>
>
>I've recently moved to a small (pop: 12,000) rural community that has a
>somewhat neglected airport. The city has taken advantage of FAA grants to
>improve the runway and taxiways but hasn't spent any money in 40 years to
>making improvements to the terminal facilities and hangars. The airport
>has
>4 T-hangars and one community hangar that holds 7 or 8 planes (one door!)
>The FBO office is 600 sf!
>
>I'd like to correspond with anyone offline who has some experience in
>dealing with City Commissions/Goverment in getting them to understand the
>value the airport brings to the city and to make necessary improvements.
>
>Thanks. Apologize for the off-topic post but there is a wealth of
>knowledge
>and experience in the RV community that I'd like to take advantage of!
>
>
>Matthew
>Van's RV-9A (Fuselage)
>EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
>www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/>
>
>
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AndrewTR30(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV-10 Engine suitability. |
HI everyone. I have a line on a used engine and new prop and was looking for some
feedback on either as to the suitability of use for an RV-10. The engine is
an IO-540-G1D5, 290HP with approx 1100 TTSN (on its first run)and a top about
150 hours ago. Never a prop strike. It has been test-cell run
and pickled. The prop is a Hartzell HC-92WK-1D. I am told that this is the correct
prop for this engine, which I assme means they are certified together.
Any information you can supply about either is as always much appreciated.
Thanks,
Andrew
RV-10
Phoenix
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-10 Engine suitability. |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Andrew,
The IO-540-G1D5 variant presents a number of differences:
- 41 lbs heavier than the -D4A5 model.
- Airplane is already at or near forward CG limit with the
recommended/lighter engine.
- angle valve instead of parallel valve; may not fit within cowl.
- G1D5 is 290 HP, exceeding Van's max power spec.
If searching for a used engine you might look at the IO-540-C4B5 which
are used on Piper Aztecs and seem to be plentiful. This engine is
virtually identical to the -D4A5 which isn't used on many planes.
Bob RV-10 #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
AndrewTR30(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: RV-10 Engine suitability.
HI everyone. I have a line on a used engine and new prop and was looking
for some feedback on either as to the suitability of use for an RV-10.
The engine is an IO-540-G1D5, 290HP with approx 1100 TTSN (on its first
run)and a top about 150 hours ago. Never a prop strike. It has been
test-cell run
and pickled. The prop is a Hartzell HC-92WK-1D. I am told that this is
the correct prop for this engine, which I assme means they are certified
together.
Any information you can supply about either is as always much
appreciated.
Thanks,
Andrew
RV-10
Phoenix
=
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Red Bondo glazing putty and moisture? |
I need some advice from any paint experts.
I'm working on my fibreglas parts. I've been using a bit of Bondo UV
activated glazing putty, and a lot of red Bondo Glazing & Spot Putty
(No. 907C) to fill pin holes and other small imperfections. Today I
got an e-mail from the wife of a local RV-6A flyer who told me that
they had used the red Bondo glazing putty on their aircraft - it
looked great at first, but the paint started bubbling about a year
later. Their aircraft is hangared at an airport in the Ottawa area,
so my aircraft will see similar conditions.
I Googled, found a few references to the various Bondo products
absorbing moisture, and that this would eventually cause problems
with corrosion or with the paint. I'm not worried about corrosion on
the fibreglas, but I am worried about the paint.
So, is this only a problem with certain types of paint, or is it a
more general problem? If it is paint specific, which paints are
good, and which are bad? Is it only a problem if there are thick
areas of glazing putty to fill low spots, or are pin holes a problem
too?
What should I do now - can I seal the surface with something to
prevent this from becoming a problem? If so, what would you
recommend?
Thanks for your advice.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Red Bondo glazing putty and moisture? |
Kevin Horton wrote:
>
>I need some advice from any paint experts.
>
>I'm working on my fibreglas parts. I've been using a bit of Bondo UV
>activated glazing putty, and a lot of red Bondo Glazing & Spot Putty
>(No. 907C) to fill pin holes and other small imperfections. Today I
>got an e-mail from the wife of a local RV-6A flyer who told me that
>they had used the red Bondo glazing putty on their aircraft - it
>looked great at first, but the paint started bubbling about a year
>later. Their aircraft is hangared at an airport in the Ottawa area,
>so my aircraft will see similar conditions.
>
>I Googled, found a few references to the various Bondo products
>absorbing moisture, and that this would eventually cause problems
>with corrosion or with the paint. I'm not worried about corrosion on
>the fibreglas, but I am worried about the paint.
>
>So, is this only a problem with certain types of paint, or is it a
>more general problem?
>
I've used the red and green stuff with great success, on steel,
aluminum, and fiberglas.
> If it is paint specific, which paints are good, and which are bad?
>
I'm not sure that it's paint specific. I think the probklem is caused
by not letting the glazing putty fully dry out. Later on the volatiles
expand in the heat and slowly lift the paint. A pin prick early on
should take care of the problem.
> Is it only a problem if there are thick areas of glazing putty to fill low spots,
or are pin holes a problem too?
>
I think the problem is more prevalent with thick areas. Shouldn't be a
problem if you let them dry out over a few days for the thicker areas.
Pinholes aren't a problem.
>What should I do now - can I seal the surface with something to
>prevent this from becoming a problem? If so, what would you
>recommend?
>
Use a good 2-part polyurethane primer and good topcoat. Paint isn't a
place to save a few bucks.
>Thanks for your advice.
>
You're quite welcome.
Linn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Red Bondo glazing putty and moisture? |
Kevin Horton wrote:
>
> I need some advice from any paint experts.
>
> I'm working on my fibreglas parts. I've been using a bit of Bondo UV
> activated glazing putty, and a lot of red Bondo Glazing & Spot Putty
> (No. 907C) to fill pin holes and other small imperfections. Today I
> got an e-mail from the wife of a local RV-6A flyer who told me that
> they had used the red Bondo glazing putty on their aircraft - it
> looked great at first, but the paint started bubbling about a year
> later. Their aircraft is hangared at an airport in the Ottawa area,
> so my aircraft will see similar conditions.
I've used red Bondo spot putty on several projects for filling small
blems such as scratches and pinholes and never had any problems with
paint lifting. The putty should only be used in very thin layers and for
minor blemishes. Anything larger will require a proper filler.
If you are concerned about moisture absorption, shoot a coat of rattle
can sandable primer over the spotted area after the putty has had
adequate time to dry. This is also necessary in order to check the
quality of the repair. When you are ready for final finish, you can sand
the entire area back to base material and apply primer and color coat.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:RTV on canopy |
I used Butyl Rubber to seal my canopy. It comes in a caulking gun cartridge
& a thin bead is all you need to use.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Red Bondo glazing putty and moisture? |
Thanks for the advice guys. I'll make sure the red stuff has had
several days to cure before it gets paint. I'll use a proper filler
(i.e. West Systems epoxy + filler) in any areas that need thick fixes.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Cleaning the hanger - items for sale |
| From: | sjhdcl(at)kingston.net |
subaruaircraft(at)yahoogroups.com, vansairforce(at)yahoogroups.com
I have several RV items for sale. See website below.
http://members.kingston.net/sjhdcl/Stuff%20for%20Sale/rv_stuff_for_sale.htm
Steve Hurlbut
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | rtv on canopy frame |
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
Ted,
You can use silicone RTV or Proseal. Paint will stick to ProSeal, not
to RTV.
I used Proseal. Mix it and put it in a baggie, snip a small hole and
use it like a cake icing bag. Mask the areas you don't want Proseal on
then peel the tape after the Proseal is in place. You can do a VERY
neat professional looking job this way.
It also makes the canopy stiffer and eliminates the annoying plexi
squeaks.
Silicone RTV works fine too. Particularly if you don't want to mask
everything... for example if you've already painted everything. Cleans
off safely with isopropyl alcohol before it sets. Just don't get it
where paint will go later or it might cause problems.
Vince Frazier
F-1H Rocket, N540VF
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/page1.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Lists and groups, Time for a discussion |
| From: | "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net> |
You know, I have been thinking about this for quite some time and I am
very curious about the groups thoughts on this.
The RV-list is a terrific tool, one that I pay to enjoy. But I am a
member of ALL the yahoo groups and I do have my pet peeves about these
groups and lists as a whole.
There is no doubt we will NEVER get the Yahoo groups to do all that we
need, but we MIGHT be able to get Matt to enhance the RV-list for
features we like and issues we have in general. There are some examples
stated before of new cool message boards controllable. I have one on my
chapter website that I maintain at www.eaa690.org
<http://www.eaa690.org/> .
Things I love about the list in priority
1. Kick butt history searchability
2. knowledgeable folks
3. Keeps out the crap (spam, out of office, etc.)
4. Threads
Things I don't like
1. Slow, we need near real time messages
2. No cool easy to use features like Polling, databases, file
storage, calendaring, photo galleries.
3. Lack of focus. I don't like classifieds when there are other
places for that. I don't like to see the same message in 10 places.
The rv community is really growing. We need to support the growth.
Anyway, I thought folks might like to hash this out. Ive been an active
supporter on "the list" for years and I'll bet many of you have some
likes and dislikes that Matt could address. Lets put them on the table
and leap frog towards our goals of the lists and groups(which need to be
defined)
Regards,
Michael Stewart
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rtv on canopy frame |
I seem to recall a discussion about RTV and plexiglas a while ago on the
forum. The consensus was that the RTV causes premature crazing or clouding
of the plexiglas, and to stick to proseal.
Scott in Vancouver
back on the forum
RV-6, 150 hours
back in the shop for repairs
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu>
Subject: RV-List: rtv on canopy frame
>
>
> Ted,
>
> You can use silicone RTV or Proseal. Paint will stick to ProSeal, not
> to RTV.
>
> I used Proseal. Mix it and put it in a baggie, snip a small hole and
> use it like a cake icing bag. Mask the areas you don't want Proseal on
> then peel the tape after the Proseal is in place. You can do a VERY
> neat professional looking job this way.
>
> It also makes the canopy stiffer and eliminates the annoying plexi
> squeaks.
>
> Silicone RTV works fine too. Particularly if you don't want to mask
> everything... for example if you've already painted everything. Cleans
> off safely with isopropyl alcohol before it sets. Just don't get it
> where paint will go later or it might cause problems.
>
> Vince Frazier
> F-1H Rocket, N540VF
> http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/page1.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Christopher Stone <rv8iator(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Red Bondo glazing putty and moisture? |
Kevin...
I have had the same bad experience with "Laquer Spot Putty" or "Spot Glazing Filler"
that is sold at auto supply stores. After about a year or so the paint
on the filled areas begins to bubble and peel. I had this happen with both laquer
and epoxy based paint and matching primers on wood and polyester (fiberglas).
I now use a mixture of epoxy and microballoons, both available at TAP plastics.
20+ years of service and the paint is still perfect over the filled
areas.
Chris Stone
-8 wings...still
Newberg, Oregon
-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com>
Subject: RV-List: Red Bondo glazing putty and moisture?
I need some advice from any paint experts.
I'm working on my fibreglas parts. I've been using a bit of Bondo UV
activated glazing putty, and a lot of red Bondo Glazing & Spot Putty
(No. 907C) to fill pin holes and other small imperfections. Today I
got an e-mail from the wife of a local RV-6A flyer who told me that
they had used the red Bondo glazing putty on their aircraft - it
looked great at first, but the paint started bubbling about a year
later. Their aircraft is hangared at an airport in the Ottawa area,
so my aircraft will see similar conditions.
I Googled, found a few references to the various Bondo products
absorbing moisture, and that this would eventually cause problems
with corrosion or with the paint. I'm not worried about corrosion on
the fibreglas, but I am worried about the paint.
So, is this only a problem with certain types of paint, or is it a
more general problem? If it is paint specific, which paints are
good, and which are bad? Is it only a problem if there are thick
areas of glazing putty to fill low spots, or are pin holes a problem
too?
What should I do now - can I seal the surface with something to
prevent this from becoming a problem? If so, what would you
recommend?
Thanks for your advice.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lists and groups, Time for a discussion |
Hey Mike...
What are you using to manage your chapter website? It's very nice!
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net>
Subject: RV-List: Lists and groups, Time for a discussion
You know, I have been thinking about this for quite some time and I am
very curious about the groups thoughts on this.
The RV-list is a terrific tool, one that I pay to enjoy. But I am a
member of ALL the yahoo groups and I do have my pet peeves about these
groups and lists as a whole.
There is no doubt we will NEVER get the Yahoo groups to do all that we
need, but we MIGHT be able to get Matt to enhance the RV-list for
features we like and issues we have in general. There are some examples
stated before of new cool message boards controllable. I have one on my
chapter website that I maintain at www.eaa690.org
<http://www.eaa690.org/> .
Things I love about the list in priority
1. Kick butt history searchability
2. knowledgeable folks
3. Keeps out the crap (spam, out of office, etc.)
4. Threads
Things I don't like
1. Slow, we need near real time messages
2. No cool easy to use features like Polling, databases, file
storage, calendaring, photo galleries.
3. Lack of focus. I don't like classifieds when there are other
places for that. I don't like to see the same message in 10 places.
The rv community is really growing. We need to support the growth.
Anyway, I thought folks might like to hash this out. Ive been an active
supporter on "the list" for years and I'll bet many of you have some
likes and dislikes that Matt could address. Lets put them on the table
and leap frog towards our goals of the lists and groups(which need to be
defined)
Regards,
Michael Stewart
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 8/6/04 9:46:37 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
T.gummo(at)verizon.net writes:
> N7XD
Tom,
Such a sad story, but thanks for sharing it with us. We will keep her in our
prayers.
It seems like every year something like this happens, I guess because there
are just an enormous number of aircraft flying to and from OSH. All we can do
is fly as safe as we can, and try to make sure it doesn't happen to us.
Please try to come to terms with it, and come back to OSH next year for a good
time.
Regards,
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (Back from OSH with about 34 hours now.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV Builders in UK - London & Farnborough |
Any builders in the Farnborough London area - will be working out of
Aldershot thru 8/22.
THanks,
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Hangar for Rent, Kenosha, WI |
If anyone is looking for a hangar in SE WI, the unit next to one I am renting
is available. It is a 46' x 46', $500/month, good for 2 RV's share the cost.
Contact Todd Hansen at 262-620-1018
Dave Burnham
RV6A (N64FN) - Painting
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kathleen (rv7)" <Kathleen(at)rv7.us> |
| Subject: | Lists and groups, Time for a discussion |
Michael, I think you are right on target, especially with your list of likes
and don't likes.
Closer to real time would be great. My #2 would be get the advertising into
a separate area. It's a drag to wade through the thinly veiled (and
sometimes more blatant) ads some folks put out. I don't mind the straight
forward, "I'm selling something," but the folks who are running little
business are simply taking advantage of the situation. Having said that,
and in their defense, they don't have a really good option. There should be
a separate posting area for ads so we don't all wade through ads when we
really want to share information.
I think that's about 11 cents worth or am I expecting too much?
Kathleen Evans
Folsom, CA
www.rv7.us
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stewart, Michael
(ISS Atlanta)
Subject: RV-List: Lists and groups, Time for a discussion
-->
You know, I have been thinking about this for quite some time and I am very
curious about the groups thoughts on this.
The RV-list is a terrific tool, one that I pay to enjoy. But I am a member
of ALL the yahoo groups and I do have my pet peeves about these groups and
lists as a whole.
There is no doubt we will NEVER get the Yahoo groups to do all that we need,
but we MIGHT be able to get Matt to enhance the RV-list for features we like
and issues we have in general. There are some examples stated before of new
cool message boards controllable. I have one on my chapter website that I
maintain at www.eaa690.org <http://www.eaa690.org/> .
Things I love about the list in priority
1. Kick butt history searchability
2. knowledgeable folks
3. Keeps out the crap (spam, out of office, etc.)
4. Threads
Things I don't like
1. Slow, we need near real time messages
2. No cool easy to use features like Polling, databases, file
storage, calendaring, photo galleries.
3. Lack of focus. I don't like classifieds when there are other
places for that. I don't like to see the same message in 10 places.
The rv community is really growing. We need to support the growth.
Anyway, I thought folks might like to hash this out. Ive been an active
supporter on "the list" for years and I'll bet many of you have some likes
and dislikes that Matt could address. Lets put them on the table and leap
frog towards our goals of the lists and groups(which need to be
defined)
Regards,
Michael Stewart
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Rattle can flat paint |
Hi All-
A couple things came up at OSH this year that I was encouraged to share
with you guys. The one for this note is that I found a way to get a really
good finish on my panel with rattle cans of epoxy prop paint.
My panel is flat black for a totally utilitarian finish that matches all my
avionics. The problem is that the rattle cans are notorious for uneven
finishes and the occasional small lump or blob to otherwise bugger up a
nice finish. What I've done is put on several coats of paint to build up
some thickness, totally disregarding the details of the finish. When
cured, I wet sand with 400 grit. This gives me a uniform and (physically)
flat surface. I follow this up with grey scothbrite to remove the
scratches left in the paint by the 400 grit paper. I, and everyone who has
looked at it, really like the results. The white scotchbrite is too fine
and will actually burnish the flat paint to a semi-gloss condition. You
might wonder how I know that...
FWIW
Glen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
Hi All-
Another discovery at OSH this year is that ACK has just come out with a new
ELT antenna that is much shorter than the STD unit and made like a rubber
duckie. Unlike using a rubber duckie though, this one is guaranteed to
meet all applicable specs. I have one on order for my -8 that will be
mounted in the cabin area and hopefully be of more real world utility than
the mounting locations we are typically stuck with.
FWIW
Glen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rtv on canopy frame |
> I seem to recall a discussion about RTV and plexiglas a while ago on the
> forum. The consensus was that the RTV causes premature crazing or clouding
> of the plexiglas, and to stick to proseal.
Maybe so; but, I've seen A&Ps with IAs using clear RTV on windshields, side
windows, etc. of commercially built aircraft with no ill effects for years.
I used the clear on my RV's tip up roll bar to help keep the rain out. So
far, it still looks just fine after about five years. The one drawback is
not being able to paint it.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
RV-7A #70317
EAA Technical Counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com> |
| Subject: | Van's now selling Garmin Avionics! |
Looks like Van's got a deal with Garmin finally. They are even listing
prices on the website!
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?9
<http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?9&browse=avionics>
&browse=avionics
Matthew Brandes,
Van's RV-9A (Fuselage)
EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rtv on canopy frame |
Yes, I think it was the orange, hi-temp RTV that caused the problem. The
"vinegar" smell given off as it cured was what attacked the plexiglass.
I don't think the clear RTV gives off the same smell.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: rtv on canopy frame
>
>
> > I seem to recall a discussion about RTV and plexiglas a while ago on the
> > forum. The consensus was that the RTV causes premature crazing or
clouding
> > of the plexiglas, and to stick to proseal.
>
> Maybe so; but, I've seen A&Ps with IAs using clear RTV on windshields,
side
> windows, etc. of commercially built aircraft with no ill effects for
years.
> I used the clear on my RV's tip up roll bar to help keep the rain out. So
> far, it still looks just fine after about five years. The one drawback is
> not being able to paint it.
>
> Jim Sears in KY
> RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
> RV-7A #70317
> EAA Technical Counselor
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Lists and groups, Time for a discussion |
Perhaps I'm a bit old fashioned, I totally prefer
the Matronics lists for two simple reasons:
1) they can be searched, and are indexed by Google;
2) they seem to strip out nasty HTML formatting.
I read the lists via my E-mail program, which is
real easy and fast.
About the slowness - on average it seems like my
messages come in at about the same speed as the
moderated Yahoo lists. If Matronics had a mirror
of the Yahoo lists on their server, so one could
search the list, that would be outstanding.
For all the frilly stuff, perhaps Matronics could
just put up a php nuke or geeklog installation for
the entire community, if someone feels it is needed.
Overall, I don't really see a problem, but like
everything, it could be made better.
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John DeCuir <jadecuir(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | UPSAT/IIMorrow GX50 GPS |
I'm looking for feedback on the GX50 GPS. I have a IImorrow LORAN, and
I'm getting ready to update to GPS. I've been told that the GX50 slides
right in the loran rack, and the antenna fits the same footprint. What
else is required? I do need the IFR cert.
P.S. , Anybody have a used unit for sale?
P.P.s Are you that have the GX50 or 55R happy with it?
John DeCuir
RV-4
N204CP
Salinas, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Re: Oregon Aero Seats |
Greg,
You may want to contact Oregon Aero for further details. The following is an e-mail
from their spokesman regarding leather being treated for fire resistance.
Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
The leather we use is certified to meet the FAA requirements in regards to burn.
It is my understanding that the leather is treated with a fire retardant agent.
Please let me know if you need more information.
Thank You,
Tony Erickson
Oregon Aero, Inc.
Seat Department, R&D
800-888-6910
www.oregonaero.com
RE: Re: Oregon Aero Seats Greg Young (gyoung@cs-sol.com) Thu Aug 05 -
6:47 AM
per seat. I think the leather Oregon Aero uses > is chemically treated to be
fire resistant and is FAA > approved, so that certainly would contribute to the
cost.
Not really. Your costs lie elsewhere. Leather will inherently pass the burntests
as will 100% wool. No treatment required.Greg
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lists and groups, Time for a discussion |
I second this opinion. I use my email program to look at all the RV
sites that interest me - directing them to one email directory. I keep
all the messages received so that I can do a search locally for recent
items. And if I need to do a search for older material, the Matronics
lists are very easy to use.
Dick Tasker
Mickey Coggins wrote:
>
>Perhaps I'm a bit old fashioned, I totally prefer
>the Matronics lists for two simple reasons:
>
>1) they can be searched, and are indexed by Google;
>
>2) they seem to strip out nasty HTML formatting.
>
>I read the lists via my E-mail program, which is
>real easy and fast.
>
>About the slowness - on average it seems like my
>messages come in at about the same speed as the
>moderated Yahoo lists. If Matronics had a mirror
>of the Yahoo lists on their server, so one could
>search the list, that would be outstanding.
>
>For all the frilly stuff, perhaps Matronics could
>just put up a php nuke or geeklog installation for
>the entire community, if someone feels it is needed.
>
>Overall, I don't really see a problem, but like
>everything, it could be made better.
>
>Mickey
>
>
>--
>Mickey Coggins
>http://www.rv8.ch/
>#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com> |
vansairforce(at)yahoogroups.com
| Subject: | Auto pilot installation |
Hi gang:
Does anyone have any pics or info on the how and where the best installation
might be for the aileron servo in an RV8 when installing a Navaid(or other)
Auto pilot?
Thanks in advance!
Al Grajek
RV8-A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RE: Re: Oregon Aero Seats |
Could be, Oregon Aero deals with everything from Cubs to military so they
may have their reasons. My comments were based on personal experience. Years
ago I was heavily involved in spec'ing materials for seat covers for an
airline. We switched from treated rayon to wool and leather and did a ton of
burn tests. FAR23.853 has been revised some since then but Part 91 aircraft
(us) only have to meet the flame-resistant (para. A) or vertical
self-extinguishing (para. F, if mounted on the firewall) standards either of
which is easily met by any leather or wool we encountered that hadn't been
soaked in kerosene. YMMV.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
> Greg,
>
> You may want to contact Oregon Aero for further details. The
> following is an e-mail from their spokesman regarding leather
> being treated for fire resistance.
>
> Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
>
>
> The leather we use is certified to meet the FAA requirements
> in regards to burn. It is my understanding that the leather
> is treated with a fire retardant agent.
>
>
> Please let me know if you need more information.
>
> Thank You,
>
> Tony Erickson
>
> Oregon Aero, Inc.
>
> Seat Department, R&D
>
> 800-888-6910
>
> www.oregonaero.com
>
>
> RE: Re: Oregon Aero Seats Greg Young
> (gyoung@cs-sol.com) Thu Aug 05 - 6:47 AM
> <gyoung@cs-sol.com>> price....1.1K per seat. I think the
> leather Oregon Aero uses > is chemically treated to be fire
> resistant and is FAA > approved, so that certainly would
> contribute to the cost.
>
>
> Not really. Your costs lie elsewhere. Leather will inherently
> pass the burn tests as will 100% wool. No treatment required. Greg
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Auto pilot installation |
Al Grajek wrote:
>
> Hi gang:
> Does anyone have any pics or info on the how and where the best installation
> might be for the aileron servo in an RV8 when installing a Navaid(or other)
> Auto pilot?
> Thanks in advance!
> Al Grajek
> RV8-A
Not saying whether or not this is the best installation for you, but
here is one option that will work well:
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/navaid.html
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: rtv on canopy frame |
In a message dated 8/6/2004 10:59:38 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
jayeandscott(at)telus.net writes:
Yes, I think it was the orange, hi-temp RTV that caused the problem. The
"vinegar" smell given off as it cured was what attacked the Plexiglas.
I don't think the clear RTV gives off the same smell.
===========================
The vinegar smell is really the aroma of acetic acid given off during the
cure cycle of "normal" commercial RTVs. Electronics grade RTVs don't cure the
same way chemically. RTV162 is one such electronics grade RTV, but it is
white. I believe there are a few clear ones out there that are electronics
grade, so I would recommend checking the GE and Dow Corning websites.
I believe that I used some Dow Corning 3150 that I had laying around for
edging around the perimeter of my canopy glass. It is clear, low viscosity and
worked well. Lexel works well also.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 708 hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Re Oregon Aero Seats |
Likewise, my comments were partly based upon an experience with an aircraft restorer
I knew several years ago in the St. Louis area who commented that his shop
cost for FAA certified leather was over twice that of a seemingly comparable
but untreated hide.
Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
Could be, Oregon Aero deals with everything from Cubs to military so they
may have their reasons. My comments were based on personal experience.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Auto pilot installation |
In a message dated 8/6/04 5:13:44 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
algrajek(at)msn.com writes:
>
>
>
> Hi gang:
> Does anyone have any pics or info on the how and where the best installation
>
> might be for the aileron servo in an RV8 when installing a Navaid(or other)
> Auto pilot?
> Thanks in advance!
> Al Grajek
> RV8-A
>
Al,
I don't have pictures, but I installed nutplates (on .040" doublers) to the
spar web on my RV-7A. I installed the NavAid servo in the same bay as the
bellcrank, and used a 1/4 inch rod to connect them. The rod is only about 4
inches long. I had to trim off two of the original mounting ears to make room,
but
it has worked perfectly. The linkage was calculated to give equal movement
of the pushrod (to the stick) in both directions. That ends up being about on
a line between the pivot points on the bellcrank. I can go into further
detail off line if you wish. I always get flamed for getting too technical on
the
list! If you haven't already put on the leading edge, or perhaps if you can
use rivnuts, you may want to consider this way. I used the doublers to reduce
the possibility of cracking the spar web. You could probably still mount it
in the bellcrank bay, and avoid mounting to the spar web, but it would take
more work.
Hope this helps,
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (Flying for a month now, about 34 hours)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Suffoletto" <rsuffoletto(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Cost of Powder coating |
I thought about having my instrument panel powder coated until I brought it to
a local shop for a quote. Theprice quoted mefor a standard pre-punched RV-7 panel
was $260.00 plus $120.00 for material if I chose a color not in stock. I am
familiar with the powder coat process and understand about set up cost, labor,
etc. however, I thought this price to be excessive.
Before I scout out other shops I thought I would ask the group their experiance
with powder coating. Right now I'm thinking I will paint it myself....
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cost of Powder coating |
my local shop did my mountain bike frame and forks in two colors for 80
bucks......get another quote.
Evan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Suffoletto" <rsuffoletto(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Cost of Powder coating
>
>
> I thought about having my instrument panel powder coated until I brought
it to a local shop for a quote. Theprice quoted mefor a standard pre-punched
RV-7 panel was $260.00 plus $120.00 for material if I chose a color not in
stock. I am familiar with the powder coat process and understand about set
up cost, labor, etc. however, I thought this price to be excessive.
>
>
> Before I scout out other shops I thought I would ask the group their
experiance with powder coating. Right now I'm thinking I will paint it
myself....
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Cost of Powder coating |
>I thought about having my instrument panel powder coated until I brought it
>to a local shop for a quote. Theprice quoted mefor a standard pre-punched
>RV-7 panel was $260.00 plus $120.00 for material if I chose a color not in
>stock. I am familiar with the powder coat process and understand about set
>up cost, labor, etc. however, I thought this price to be excessive.
>
>
>Before I scout out other shops I thought I would ask the group their
>experiance with powder coating. Right now I'm thinking I will paint it
>myself....
>
>
>Thanks
Ack! Pretty steep. I paid $65 for an engine mount about five years ago. I
think it was minimum charge for setup and any additional parts would have
been less per item.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
Check out Election 2004 for up-to-date election news, plus voter tools and
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Weyant" <cweyant(at)chuckdirect.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cost of Powder coating |
I used Imron. Shot it from a little self contained pressure gun purchased
at the local automotive paint supply house for six bucks or so. Totally
durable, tuff (no scratches or nicks after installation) and glass smooth.
I've had a zillion compliments, and it was easy. Everyone thought I'd had
it powder coated. My powder coater here would have done it for $35 to $40
but would have taken two to three weeks and I had to run it over to him and
pick it up. I'd paint it again.
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Suffoletto" <rsuffoletto(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Cost of Powder coating
>
>
> I thought about having my instrument panel powder coated until I brought
it to a local shop for a quote. Theprice quoted mefor a standard pre-punched
RV-7 panel was $260.00 plus $120.00 for material if I chose a color not in
stock. I am familiar with the powder coat process and understand about set
up cost, labor, etc. however, I thought this price to be excessive.
>
>
> Before I scout out other shops I thought I would ask the group their
experiance with powder coating. Right now I'm thinking I will paint it
myself....
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Walker" <ron(at)walker.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cost of Powder coating |
I had mine done for about 60 bucks. Shop around some more.
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Suffoletto" <rsuffoletto(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Cost of Powder coating
>
>
> I thought about having my instrument panel powder coated until I brought
it to a local shop for a quote. Theprice quoted mefor a standard pre-punched
RV-7 panel was $260.00 plus $120.00 for material if I chose a color not in
stock. I am familiar with the powder coat process and understand about set
up cost, labor, etc. however, I thought this price to be excessive.
>
>
> Before I scout out other shops I thought I would ask the group their
experiance with powder coating. Right now I'm thinking I will paint it
myself....
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Cost of Powder coating |
You can often save a lot of money with powedercoating (on a small job) by
choosing a colour they're going to use for a batch of other jobs. However, if
you want a specific colour that they don't happen to be using elsewhere you'll
pay full price.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cost of Powder coating |
Had my RV6-A engine mount done for $75.00!
Tom in Ohio
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Richard Suffoletto" <rsuffoletto(at)hotmail.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Cost of Powder coating
>
>
>
> >
> >
> > I thought about having my instrument panel powder coated until I brought
> it to a local shop for a quote. Theprice quoted mefor a standard
pre-punched
> RV-7 panel was $260.00 plus $120.00 for material if I chose a color not in
> stock. I am familiar with the powder coat process and understand about set
> up cost, labor, etc. however, I thought this price to be excessive.
> >
> >
> > Before I scout out other shops I thought I would ask the group their
> experiance with powder coating. Right now I'm thinking I will paint it
> myself....
> >
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | where to buy elastic pockets? |
For my newly minted RV-7A, I thought I would be able to find elastic storage
pockets at Oshkosh. But I came away empty. I'm looking for the kind I can
attach to the side fuselage under the panel and also in the baggage area, to
keep pens, maps, etc.
Anybody know where I can get these?
Thanks,
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Kroy printer info needed |
Listers,
Could anyone who has used one of the various Kroy brand printers tell me
if you can use them to print onto standard, store bought, heat shrink
tubing? Or do they only work with the Kroy manufactured cartridges of heat
shrink tubing. Any suggestions on where to get good prices on these
cartridges? Any general suggestions?
Charlie Kuss
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Short trip - great plane |
layncable(at)sbcglobal.net
I've never posted one of those inspirational trip reports so here goes. This isn't
a long journey to some far off romantic or adventurous place. Just a couple
of short hops that really showed me the great utility of these little planes.
I got out to Oakdale airport (O27) at about 7:15am this morning and did a quick
pre-flight while I ate my breakfast burrito. I did my runup, dialed Mather Field
(MHR) into my Anywhere Map and was airborne by 7:40am. It was unseasonbly
cool this morning for the Central Valley, only 65 degrees. But that all changed
as I climbed up to find the inversion layer. Now it was about 80 degrees
(ugh, gonna get hot today!) Within about 15 minutes I was having to quickly dial
in ATIS and 5 minutes later I was on final for 22R and being asked to step
over to 22L.
I was met by my sister who took me to breakfast. After breakfast I took her and
the kids out to look at the plane. No time for rides because she had to go
to work. I've never let that stop me but she has better work ethics than I do.
It was just before 10am that I blasted out of Mather. I was still on the downwind
headed East when I climbed up and out of the Class D airspace. It was
entertaining to listen to the controller start to warn other aircraft about me
and then say "ah...nevermind, not a factor."
I dialed in Jackson/Westover Field into the trusty ol' iPAQ and also cranked up
Windows Media Player to listen to some tunes on the way up there. 15 minutes
later I was turning final listening to Lenny Kravitz sing "I want to get away,
I want to fly away..." in between position reports from other aircraft. I taxied
up to the spot closest to the terminal. I secured everything, grabbed my
briefcase and called a cab to take me to Jackson Rancheria, the local gambling
facility. As we drove past the end of the runway a beautifully painted RV-6
was on short final. I pointed to the plane and told him mine was similar but
making sure to point out the superior charactaristics of the RV-4 as opposed
to the other models. :-) It was painted white whith streaming checkerboard underneath
and ended with the letters CS. If you're on any of these groups, nice
plane!
(Editorial Note: Jackson Rancheria REALLY needs to provide courtesy transportation
to the airport. It's only a 5 minute drive and I think they could bring
in a lot of fly in business. I'd much rather tip a courtesy van driver than pay
and tip a cabbie.)
Now, I'm not a gambler. I was there for a job fair. Hey, casinos need computer
geeks too. It took about an hour to sign in and wait to talk to their Information
Technology people. After the interview I called the taxi back and was
back up to my plane by about 12 noon. I was airborne by 12:15 and cranked up
the tunes again. No need for a moving map at this point, the plane could find
it's own way home. I didn't really need it for the entire trip, I just like
the "ooh" factor of having a color moving map. Anyway, I was crusing back into
the pattern and was down by 12:45.
So there you have it, I took what would have been almost an entire day of driving
and turned it into one morning. I really love that plane.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chuck <chuck515tigger(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Short trip - great plane |
Well Scott... we all know the RV-4 is the "Superior" RV. But the other RV's are
pretty darn good too. :-} BTW you still haven't given me that ride
you promised, why I haven't even seen your beauty yet. Drop by C80-New Coalinga
anytime and give me a call. My cell & home numbers are still the same. Maybe
I'll take you out to see D.C. International Airport (yep that's the 1900'
private airfield & hanger I built) and buy ya' breakfast, lunch, or dinner. Take
care,
Chuck
Scott Vanartsdalen wrote:
I've never posted one of those inspirational trip reports so here goes. This isn't
a long journey to some far off romantic or adventurous place. Just a couple
of short hops that really showed me the great utility of these little planes.
I got out to Oakdale airport (O27) at about 7:15am this morning and did a quick
pre-flight while I ate my breakfast burrito. I did my runup, dialed Mather Field
(MHR) into my Anywhere Map and was airborne by 7:40am. It was unseasonbly
cool this morning for the Central Valley, only 65 degrees. But that all changed
as I climbed up to find the inversion layer. Now it was about 80 degrees (ugh,
gonna get hot today!) Within about 15 minutes I was having to quickly dial
in ATIS and 5 minutes later I was on final for 22R and being asked to step over
to 22L.
I was met by my sister who took me to breakfast. After breakfast I took her and
the kids out to look at the plane. No time for rides because she had to go to
work. I've never let that stop me but she has better work ethics than I do. It
was just before 10am that I blasted out of Mather. I was still on the downwind
headed East when I climbed up and out of the Class D airspace. It was entertaining
to listen to the controller start to warn other aircraft about me and
then say "ah...nevermind, not a factor."
I dialed in Jackson/Westover Field into the trusty ol' iPAQ and also cranked up
Windows Media Player to listen to some tunes on the way up there. 15 minutes
later I was turning final listening to Lenny Kravitz sing "I want to get away,
I want to fly away..." in between position reports from other aircraft. I taxied
up to the spot closest to the terminal. I secured everything, grabbed my briefcase
and called a cab to take me to Jackson Rancheria, the local gambling
facility. As we drove past the end of the runway a beautifully painted RV-6 was
on short final. I pointed to the plane and told him mine was similar but making
sure to point out the superior charactaristics of the RV-4 as opposed to the
other models. :-) It was painted white whith streaming checkerboard underneath
and ended with the letters CS. If you're on any of these groups, nice plane!
(Editorial Note: Jackson Rancheria REALLY needs to provide courtesy transportation
to the airport. It's only a 5 minute drive and I think they could bring in
a lot of fly in business. I'd much rather tip a courtesy van driver than pay
and tip a cabbie.)
Now, I'm not a gambler. I was there for a job fair. Hey, casinos need computer
geeks too. It took about an hour to sign in and wait to talk to their Information
Technology people. After the interview I called the taxi back and was back
up to my plane by about 12 noon. I was airborne by 12:15 and cranked up the tunes
again. No need for a moving map at this point, the plane could find it's
own way home. I didn't really need it for the entire trip, I just like the "ooh"
factor of having a color moving map. Anyway, I was crusing back into the pattern
and was down by 12:45.
So there you have it, I took what would have been almost an entire day of driving
and turned it into one morning. I really love that plane.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chuck <chuck515tigger(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Short trip - great plane |
Well Scott... we all know the RV-4 is the "Superior" RV. But the other RV's are
pretty darn good too. :-} BTW you still haven't given me that ride
you promised, why I haven't even seen your beauty yet. Drop by C80-New Coalinga
anytime and give me a call. My cell & home numbers are still the same. Maybe
I'll take you out to see D.C. International Airport (yep that's the 1900'
private airfield & hanger I built) and buy ya' breakfast, lunch, or dinner. Take
care,
Chuck
Scott Vanartsdalen wrote:
I've never posted one of those inspirational trip reports so here goes. This isn't
a long journey to some far off romantic or adventurous place. Just a couple
of short hops that really showed me the great utility of these little planes.
I got out to Oakdale airport (O27) at about 7:15am this morning and did a quick
pre-flight while I ate my breakfast burrito. I did my runup, dialed Mather Field
(MHR) into my Anywhere Map and was airborne by 7:40am. It was unseasonbly
cool this morning for the Central Valley, only 65 degrees. But that all changed
as I climbed up to find the inversion layer. Now it was about 80 degrees (ugh,
gonna get hot today!) Within about 15 minutes I was having to quickly dial
in ATIS and 5 minutes later I was on final for 22R and being asked to step over
to 22L.
I was met by my sister who took me to breakfast. After breakfast I took her and
the kids out to look at the plane. No time for rides because she had to go to
work. I've never let that stop me but she has better work ethics than I do. It
was just before 10am that I blasted out of Mather. I was still on the downwind
headed East when I climbed up and out of the Class D airspace. It was entertaining
to listen to the controller start to warn other aircraft about me and
then say "ah...nevermind, not a factor."
I dialed in Jackson/Westover Field into the trusty ol' iPAQ and also cranked up
Windows Media Player to listen to some tunes on the way up there. 15 minutes
later I was turning final listening to Lenny Kravitz sing "I want to get away,
I want to fly away..." in between position reports from other aircraft. I taxied
up to the spot closest to the terminal. I secured everything, grabbed my briefcase
and called a cab to take me to Jackson Rancheria, the local gambling
facility. As we drove past the end of the runway a beautifully painted RV-6 was
on short final. I pointed to the plane and told him mine was similar but making
sure to point out the superior charactaristics of the RV-4 as opposed to the
other models. :-) It was painted white whith streaming checkerboard underneath
and ended with the letters CS. If you're on any of these groups, nice plane!
(Editorial Note: Jackson Rancheria REALLY needs to provide courtesy transportation
to the airport. It's only a 5 minute drive and I think they could bring in
a lot of fly in business. I'd much rather tip a courtesy van driver than pay
and tip a cabbie.)
Now, I'm not a gambler. I was there for a job fair. Hey, casinos need computer
geeks too. It took about an hour to sign in and wait to talk to their Information
Technology people. After the interview I called the taxi back and was back
up to my plane by about 12 noon. I was airborne by 12:15 and cranked up the tunes
again. No need for a moving map at this point, the plane could find it's
own way home. I didn't really need it for the entire trip, I just like the "ooh"
factor of having a color moving map. Anyway, I was crusing back into the pattern
and was down by 12:45.
So there you have it, I took what would have been almost an entire day of driving
and turned it into one morning. I really love that plane.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kroy printer info needed |
The short answer is no. The problem is that the cartridge comes with
shrink sleeve and the ribbon. So, while it would print on essentially
anything - no ribbon, no print.
There aren't any "good" prices on these cartridges. The lowest I have
found is here:
http://members.tripod.com/~HANOVER_TECHNICAL/
Dick Tasker
Charlie Kuss wrote:
>
>Listers,
> Could anyone who has used one of the various Kroy brand printers tell me
>if you can use them to print onto standard, store bought, heat shrink
>tubing? Or do they only work with the Kroy manufactured cartridges of heat
>shrink tubing. Any suggestions on where to get good prices on these
>cartridges? Any general suggestions?
>Charlie Kuss
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kroy printer info needed |
I, too, tried to find a reasonably-priced wire or heat-shrink printer when I
was wiring up my bird, but without success.
I ended up just using the narrowest black-on-white tape in my Brother
P-Touch labelmaker, which also prints all kinds of arrows and symbols-and
sticking it to the wire which it didn't much like, then slipping clear heat
shrink overtop and shrinking it.
The readability is excellent.
I tried to overcome not having the name of the wire printed on it every foot
or so by labelling each end "From fuse block" or "To Pilot's Mic tip", etc.
Not that I'd ever feed 12V+ to my microphone, of course....
Scott in VAncouver
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Kroy printer info needed
>
> The short answer is no. The problem is that the cartridge comes with
> shrink sleeve and the ribbon. So, while it would print on essentially
> anything - no ribbon, no print.
>
> There aren't any "good" prices on these cartridges. The lowest I have
> found is here:
>
> http://members.tripod.com/~HANOVER_TECHNICAL/
>
> Dick Tasker
>
> Charlie Kuss wrote:
>
> >
> >Listers,
> > Could anyone who has used one of the various Kroy brand printers tell
me
> >if you can use them to print onto standard, store bought, heat shrink
> >tubing? Or do they only work with the Kroy manufactured cartridges of
heat
> >shrink tubing. Any suggestions on where to get good prices on these
> >cartridges? Any general suggestions?
> >Charlie Kuss
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles E. Brame" <charleyb(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ACK Rubber Ducky ELT Antenna |
So much for ACK rubber ducky elt antennas.
Charlie
-------- Original Message --------
>From: "ACK Technology" <info(at)ackavionics.com>
>
>To:
>
>Subject: Re: Rubber Ducky ELT Antenna
>
>Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2004 19:38:28 -0700
>
>We don't have a rubber ducky type antenna. Must be someone else.
>
>ACK Customer Support
>
------------------------------------------------
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Charles E. Brame" <charleyb(at)earthlink.net>
>>To:
>>Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2004 2:57 PM
>>Subject: Rubber Ducky ELT Antenna
>>
>> I understand that you showed a new Rubber Ducky style ELT antenna at
>> Oskosh. If so, where can I order one?
>>
>> Charlie Brame
>> RV-6A N11CB
>> San Antonio
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | runway light system for sale |
Complete system, 10 clear, 4 amber and 2 red lighrs
radio control unit on 122.9 with antenna.
110 V system
$500 for all
Reply off list
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Short trip - great plane |
How much was the cab fare to the Casino? I've been looking for a Casino in
Northern California with an airport nearby.
Cash Copeland
Hayward, Ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Short trip - great plane |
About $25. Yikes! That's pricey for us Oakdale boys. I mentioned to the guys
in the parking garage that they ought to pick people up at the airport. They
said, "You mean people would actually fly here just to gamble?" Uh...yeah.
I'm going to email the casino and suggest it. Couldn't hurt if others did the
same. I'm not a gambler but I like to see aiports prosper. I think it would
do wonders for Westover's fuel sales if the casino offered free rides to and
from the airport.
JusCash(at)aol.com wrote:
How much was the cab fare to the Casino? I've been looking for a Casino in
Northern California with an airport nearby.
Cash Copeland
Hayward, Ca
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ACK Rubber Ducky ELT Antenna |
So this package arrived from Ameri-King yesterday....
I believe I wrote that I learned of the antenna at OSH, not that I saw it.
A manager at Pacific Coast Avionics told me about the new antenna. When I
got home, I called ACK. 'Carol' said 'sure, $36'. What showed up is a
black plastic coated wire antenna 13" long and 3/32 dia with a surface
mount and raked about 20 degrees or so. P/N 450017. While it turns out
that it isn't really a rubber duckie, it will still meet my needs for an
under-canopy antenna, and might even be better than the rubber duckie due
to the sweep angle.
YMMV
Glen
From: "Charles E. Brame" <charleyb(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Re: ACK Rubber Ducky ELT Antenna
So much for ACK rubber ducky elt antennas.
Charlie
-------- Original Message --------
>From: "ACK Technology" <info(at)ackavionics.com>
>
>To:
>
>Subject: Re: Rubber Ducky ELT Antenna
>
>Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2004 19:38:28 -0700
>
>We don't have a rubber ducky type antenna. Must be someone else.
>
>ACK Customer Support
>
------------------------------------------------
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Charles E. Brame" <charleyb(at)earthlink.net>
>>To:
>>Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2004 2:57 PM
>>Subject: Rubber Ducky ELT Antenna
>>
>> I understand that you showed a new Rubber Ducky style ELT antenna at
>> Oskosh. If so, where can I order one?
>>
>> Charlie Brame
>> RV-6A N11CB
>> San Antonio
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVEIGHTA(at)aol.com |
Dave, I might be interested in your RV-7 project. Please email me the details
( location, askiing price, etc.)
Thanks, Walt Shipley RV-8A N314TS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Cimino" <jcimino(at)echoes.net> |
| Subject: | Re: where to buy elastic pockets? |
I know Cleveland makes them to order and they do nice work.
James Cimino
RV-8 SN 80039
100+ Hours
570-842-4057
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Boyce, Ph.D." <matronicspost@csg-i.com>
Subject: RV-List: where to buy elastic pockets?
<matronicspost@csg-i.com>
>
> For my newly minted RV-7A, I thought I would be able to find elastic
storage
> pockets at Oshkosh. But I came away empty. I'm looking for the kind I can
> attach to the side fuselage under the panel and also in the baggage area,
to
> keep pens, maps, etc.
>
> Anybody know where I can get these?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Paul
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Jurotich <mjurotich(at)hst.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | Brain box mount EFIS ONE |
I am redoing the panel in my RV 6A and have yet to find a "good" place to
mount brain box for the Blue mountain EFIS One. Anybody out there with an
installed box and maybe some pictures?
Thanks
Matthew M. Jurotich
NASA/Goddard Space Flight Center
JWST ISIM Systems Engineer
m/c : 443
e-mail mailto: mjurotich(at)hst.nasa.gov
phone : 301-286-5919
fax : 301-286-7021
JWST URL: <http://ngst1.gsfc.nasa.gov>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Cool RV pics source |
Listers,
I was searching for a friend's airliner he's been flying and noticed that
airliners.net also has pics of all kinds of other aircraft in their
database. I found 14 pages of RV's, many of which are of non-USA registry.
Kinda neat to see how the RV community has spread across the planet!
Go to http://www.airliners.net/search/ and search for Vans in the "aircraft
type" window.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD flying 4 years.
RV10 '51 tailcone riveting.
Check out Election 2004 for up-to-date election news, plus voter tools and
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Short trip - great plane |
Thanks Scott, I'm going to fly up and check them out today.
Cash
In a message dated 8/7/2004 9:25:05 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
svanarts(at)yahoo.com writes:
About $25. Yikes! That's pricey for us Oakdale boys. I mentioned to the
guys in the parking garage that they ought to pick people up at the airport.
They said, "You mean people would actually fly here just to gamble?" Uh...yeah.
I'm going to email the casino and suggest it. Couldn't hurt if others did
the same. I'm not a gambler but I like to see aiports prosper. I think it
would do wonders for Westover's fuel sales if the casino offered free rides to
and from the airport.
JusCash(at)aol.com wrote:
How much was the cab fare to the Casino? I've been looking for a Casino in
Northern California with an airport nearby.
Cash Copeland
Hayward, Ca
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Solberg" <solberg(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Super 7 engine mount! |
Does anyone know how to get in touch with Boyd C. Braem? He built a
Super 6 and I am building a Super 7 and need some information about the
engine mount design. Thanks!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry2DT(at)aol.com |
Anyone here have their panel anodized? Good idea, bad idea?
Thanx,
Jerry Cochran
In a message dated 8/7/2004 11:59:52 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
From: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cost of Powder coating
my local shop did my mountain bike frame and forks in two colors for 80
bucks......get another quote.
Evan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jordan Grant" <gra9933(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Respirator wanted to buy |
I'm looking to buy a used Hobbyair or equivalent respirator system to use
for painting. Contact me at gra9933(at)bellsouth.net if you have one you'd like
to part with, or know of someone.
Thanks,
Jordan Grant
RV-6 in the new workshop - getting ready for paint!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Respirator wanted to buy |
Jordan Grant wrote:
>
>I'm looking to buy a used Hobbyair or equivalent respirator system to use
>for painting. Contact me at gra9933(at)bellsouth.net if you have one you'd like
>to part with, or know of someone.
>
>Thanks,
> Jordan Grant
> RV-6 in the new workshop - getting ready for paint!!
>
Let me preface my note with the fact that I've never used the Hobbyair
system, but I did look at it closely. I decided against it because of
the hose and the mobility. Getting around the workpiece in your paint
booth is hard enough with an air hose for the paint gun. Even more so
using the turbine HVLP system. I bought a good 3m (I think) 2 stage
respirator that has both a solids and carbon filter. I also placed good
air conditioning elements in the back of my booth, and a large fan in
the front. This gives me good cross-ventilation and keeps all the
nasties out of my lungs.
Hopefully you'll hear from someone who has actually used the unit and
can comment on whether it was worth the cost. 'Course if they're
selling theirs ...... ;-)
YMMV
Linn
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ammeter <jammeter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Respirator wanted to buy |
>
>Jordan Grant wrote:
>
>>
>>I'm looking to buy a used Hobbyair or equivalent respirator system to use
>>for painting. Contact me at gra9933(at)bellsouth.net if you have one you'd like
>>to part with, or know of someone.
>>
>>Thanks,
>> Jordan Grant
>> RV-6 in the new workshop - getting ready for paint!!
>>
>
>Let me preface my note with the fact that I've never used the Hobbyair
>system, but I did look at it closely. I decided against it because of
>the hose and the mobility. Getting around the workpiece in your paint
>booth is hard enough with an air hose for the paint gun. Even more so
>using the turbine HVLP system. I bought a good 3m (I think) 2 stage
>respirator that has both a solids and carbon filter. I also placed good
>air conditioning elements in the back of my booth, and a large fan in
>the front. This gives me good cross-ventilation and keeps all the
>nasties out of my lungs.
>Hopefully you'll hear from someone who has actually used the unit and
>can comment on whether it was worth the cost. 'Course if they're
>selling theirs ...... ;-)
>YMMV
>Linn
>
My experience was with the two part urethane paint and I
used that type of respirator... 2 stage filter. I also was
"high as a kite" for about an hour or so after painting only
the interior of the cockpit.
I was told, later, that there are chemicals/gases that are
not filtered by that type of respirator that can kill you...
I'd recommend living, pun intended, with the inconvience of
dragging that hose around the shop...
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Respirator wanted to buy |
John Ammeter wrote:
>My experience was with the two part urethane paint and I
>used that type of respirator... 2 stage filter. I also was
>"high as a kite" for about an hour or so after painting only
>the interior of the cockpit.
>
>I was told, later, that there are chemicals/gases that are
>not filtered by that type of respirator that can kill you...
>
>I'd recommend living, pun intended, with the inconvience of
>dragging that hose around the shop...
>
>John
>
I find that most interesting. The 2-part urethanes don't have a lot of
volatiles (thinner) in them and the carbon filter should have taken care
of any reducers you added. If the carbon filters lay around for a while
they will become saturated with normal atmospheric gasses and become
almost useless. I have painted quite a lot of urethanes (no, painting
isn't my profession) with no problems whatsoever with a good 2-part
respirator .... well, none that are apparent anyway! :-) . Then again
my paint booth is well ventilated. Your caution is well taken, and
anyone using urethane paints should make sure that their respirator is
capable of handling that medium. Urethanes aren't to be trifled with as
the solids become a permanent part of your lungs when inhaled. I know
of two cases where painters have died from repeated exposures to
urethane paints over a long period of time ..... both deaths resulted
from lack of a respirator of any type. If you have some reservations
about the 2-part respirator ..... by all means use the fresh-air
(Hobbyair) system ..... better safe than sorry.
Linn
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV-7A Builder" <RV-7A(at)Austin.RR.com> |
| Subject: | LED Navigation Light Project |
Here's an update for all interested parties.....
http://www.jeffsrv7a.com/LEDPROJECT.htm
Jeff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Warner" <cwarner(at)twcny.rr.com> |
At Oshkosh this year I heard the best explanation of the need for a fresh air breathing
system. The Tech support guy for Poly Fiber(sorry I don't remember his
name) explained it this way. Everybody has a tea cup attached to their hip.
Everybody's cup is a different size. When the toxins from spraying paint enter
your body through, lungs, eyes and skin, it remains in your liver and kidney
forever. What you absorb when your 20 will be there when your 90. When your tea
cup gets full you get sick. That is why some people get a reaction the first
time they are exposed (small tea cup) others never are affected (big cup). The
bottom line is nobody knows how much exposure is too much for them ( cup size).
After having painted 3 RV's and not knowing what level my personnel cup was
I decided to spend $400 for a Hoby-air with a full hood
.
He also stated that a charcoal respirator will not absorb the cyanide contained
in the hardener for the newer acrylic paints.
Best regards
Craig Warner
N2851P
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: LED Navigation Light Project |
Impressive!
Builder"
Here's an update for all interested parties.....
http://www.jeffsrv7a.com/LEDPROJECT.htm
Jeff
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robin Wessel" <robin.wessel(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Respirator wanted to buy |
I considered buying the hobby air system with the hooded mask option. For
$400 it is overpriced. Here is what I did:
-Bought a Bullard hood (the same make and model as what Hobby air resells)
for $40. You can find them on e-bay or at most safety supply stores.
-Bought non-self sealing garden hose disconnects from Home Depot for $5.
This is exactly what Hobby Air uses
-Connected them to a section of corrugated hose from Vans or a garden hose
$0. Similar to what Hobby air uses
-Bought a small portable wet/dry vac from home depot to use as the air
source $25. Plenty of other uses of course
-Bought a router speed control from Harbor freight on sale for $12.99 to
control the vac=92s speed.
-Found some old printer transparencies an cut them to shape to act as
protectors for the hood $0.
After plugging this all together, the entire system works great! The last
plane I painted, I used a regular mask connected to the system w/out air eye
protection. I would highly recommend that your eyes are protected with fresh
air as the paint will definitely irritate them.
So for well under $100 I have a system that performs equally as well as the
$400 hobby air.
Robin Wessel
RV-10 wings
Tigard, OR
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Scott <rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com> |
| Subject: | How to make a fresh air respirator |
This system costs less than $120 and gives you filtered air from a remote
location, similar to a Hobby Air.
1. Get a small shop vac called "The Stinger" from Home Depot for about
$28. Use it only for your respirator.
2. Get a Tyvek painting hood from an auto paint supplier for about $28.
3. Get a swimming pool vacuum hose, 1.5" diameter, about $40-50, a little
less in the fall when business slows. I bought 50 feet, it is also sold in
40 ft. lengths; Hobby Air uses 40 ft.
4. Pick up a belt clip from your hardware store's key section and a hose
clamp for your pool hose.
Take the small orange attachment from the shop vac and cut off the spreader
portion, saving the round tube portion. This is your adapter you will use
to mate the pool hose to the shop vac hose. Connect the pool hose to the
shop vac hose and the hood, but making sure you use the end that swivels
for the spray hood. Attach the belt clip to the pool hose near the hood
with a zip tie.
Take an old baseball cap and cut off the bill. Attach that to the inside
of the hood with a couple safety pins or whatever such that it your head
movements.
Put a belt around your chest and use the belt clip to keep the hose weight
from pulling on the hood.
Locate the vac in a safe location & spray away! Be sure to be aware of any
changes in the wind.
Notes:
1. If you try to go cheap & use 1 1/4" pool hose it will set up a howl
that earplugs won't even begin to deal with. The larger diameter hose
reduces the velocity & removes the howl. However, a fellow builder did go
with the smaller hose and reports that placing an old 35mm film can in the
hose slowed the air enough to quiet the howl. I have not tried this. The
1 1/4" hose will connect directly to the shop vac hose without the adapter.
2. I have not tried the baseball cap thing yet. I have used the system
without it and as I tilt my head up or down the hood does not follow. So
far, I have always had a free hand to adjust the hood as necessary, but I
do intend to try the baseball cap thing, just haven't needed to yet.
3. There are peel off lenses available for the hood. Some paint suppliers
carry them, some don't, some that do only sell them in a package , rather
than individually. You may have to cough up ~ $25 for a package of them.
Richard Scott
RV-9A Emp almost done
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Respirator wanted to buy |
Almost exactly the system that I cobbled up to spray Dupont Imron on my RV.
I used the blower from a Campbell-Hausfield HVLP cheapo plastic gun, coupled
to crush-proof black plastic water line for outdoor ponds, tywrapped into a
disposable painter's hood.
The small hose diameter does indeed cause the air to generate a roaring
sound, easily tamed with foamy earplugs.
Works so well, can't fog the window on the hood no matter how hard I
hyperventilate( do that a lot as the sags start) nor can I taste what I had
for supper when I belch...
Scott in VAncouver
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robin Wessel" <robin.wessel(at)verizon.net>
Subject: RV-List: Re: Respirator wanted to buy
>
> I considered buying the hobby air system with the hooded mask option. For
> $400 it is overpriced. Here is what I did:
>
>
> -Bought a Bullard hood (the same make and model as what Hobby air resells)
> for $40. You can find them on e-bay or at most safety supply stores.
>
> -Bought non-self sealing garden hose disconnects from Home Depot for $5.
> This is exactly what Hobby Air uses
>
> -Connected them to a section of corrugated hose from Vans or a garden hose
> $0. Similar to what Hobby air uses
>
> -Bought a small portable wet/dry vac from home depot to use as the air
> source $25. Plenty of other uses of course
>
> -Bought a router speed control from Harbor freight on sale for $12.99 to
> control the vac=92s speed.
>
> -Found some old printer transparencies an cut them to shape to act as
> protectors for the hood $0.
>
>
> After plugging this all together, the entire system works great! The last
> plane I painted, I used a regular mask connected to the system w/out air
eye
> protection. I would highly recommend that your eyes are protected with
fresh
> air as the paint will definitely irritate them.
>
>
> So for well under $100 I have a system that performs equally as well as
the
> $400 hobby air.
>
>
> Robin Wessel
>
> RV-10 wings
>
> Tigard, OR
>
>
> ---
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "WALTER KERR" <kerrjb(at)msn.com> |
| From: | "Scott Solberg" <solberg(at)charter.net> |
Subject: RV-List: Super 7 engine mount!
Hi Scot,
Boyd used to come to our breakfast and he registered his phone as 941-966-6015
Bernie Kerr, 6A sold , hope to get medical back soon and start flying my rotary
powered 9A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne @ Aircraft Engravers" <wayne(at)engravers.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Anodize Panel? |
Jerry,
I've seen it from time to time and how it finally looks depends on a few
different things.
How do you want it labeled? Engraved (standard or laser), silk screened,
placarded etc...
Different methods of labeling may need a specific finish on the aluminum
such as smooth or a brushed texture to have legible text when completed.
If you engrave the panel it will expose the aluminum to oxidation so it will
have to be clear-coated to protect it. This is also true with silk screening
if there are any areas of high wear such as around a flaps switch.
To keep this brief I've given you just a few of the things to be concerned
with, there are many other labeling types with their own pros and cons.
There is a process that we do that will give your panel the look as if it
came from the factory. Visit
http://www.engravers.net/aircraft/painted_panels.htm to see how a painted
panel can look like.
If you call me I can go over this in as much detail as needed for you to
make an informed decision as apposed to a couple of brief highlighted
points.
Wayne Cahoon
Aircraft Engravers
(860) 653-2780
(860) 653-7324 Fax
http://www.engravers.net
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jerry2DT(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Anodize Panel?
>
>
> Anyone here have their panel anodized? Good idea, bad idea?
>
> Thanx,
> Jerry Cochran
>
> In a message dated 8/7/2004 11:59:52 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
>
> From: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Cost of Powder coating
>
>
> my local shop did my mountain bike frame and forks in two colors for 80
> bucks......get another quote.
>
> Evan
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
I found that I could write by hand on white heat shrink tubing before putting
it on the wire. Use a Sharpie Twin-tip pen (they come in colors, too). When
the heat shrink shrinks, so does the writing. Easy, cheap and works real
well.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (About 35 hours now)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: LED Navigation Light Project |
I have a dumb question,
Why has no one made an LED bulb cluster that will plug into the Nav lights I
have on my airplane? I would buy a set for $50 bucks, or maybe even $100.
My electric budget is very short at night and this is just what I need! And
I don't want to cut any tin, just change the bulbs. Maybe the colored LEDs
could be potted into a clear lens that replaced the colored lens with a
short wire and a plug that went into the lamp socket?
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Taylor" <mtaylo17(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Blue Mountain EFIS 1 |
Matt,
Check out the EFIS page on my website...
http://home.comcast.net/~mtaylo17/RV7/
It'll help, but in an already complete airframe(?) it may be a bit tricky!
Mark
From: Matt Jurotich <mjurotich(at)hst.nasa.gov>
Subject: RV-List: Brain box mount EFIS ONE
I am redoing the panel in my RV 6A and have yet to find a "good" place to
mount brain box for the Blue mountain EFIS One. Anybody out there with an
installed box and maybe some pictures?
Thanks
Matthew M. Jurotich
NASA/Goddard Space Flight Center
JWST ISIM Systems Engineer
m/c : 443
e-mail mailto: mjurotich(at)hst.nasa.gov
phone : 301-286-5919
fax : 301-286-7021
JWST URL: <http://ngst1.gsfc.nasa.gov>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Neal E Capt AU/PC <Neal.George(at)maxwell.af.mil> |
Listers -
Since I have another two months to wait for Vans to ship my standard wing
kit, I'd like to hear some comments, experiences or recommendations
regarding manual vs. electric aileron trim in the RV-7.
Neal
RV-7 N8ZG
(STILL waiting for wings)
Listers -
Since I have another two months to wait for Vans to ship my
standard
wing kit, I'd like to hear some comments, experiences or recommendations
regarding manual vs. electric aileron trim in the RV-7.
Neal
RV-7 N8ZG
(STILL waiting for wings)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Meyette" <brianpublic(at)starband.net> |
| Subject: | northeast R builders |
There is a RV Forum in Fulton, NY Sept 11. I went to this last year, and
thought it was very good.
See www.eaachapter486.com
brian
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dr. Peter Laurence" <dr.laurence(at)mbdi.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Trim |
Neal
go to Eric Jones's website.http://www.periheliondesign.com/moreproducts.htm
Take a look at his electronic trimwheel.
Peter
RV9A
waiting for wings
----- Original Message -----
From: "George Neal E Capt AU/PC" <Neal.George(at)maxwell.af.mil>
Subject: RV-List: Aileron Trim
>
> Listers -
>
>
> Since I have another two months to wait for Vans to ship my standard wing
> kit, I'd like to hear some comments, experiences or recommendations
> regarding manual vs. electric aileron trim in the RV-7.
>
>
> Neal
>
> RV-7 N8ZG
>
> (STILL waiting for wings)
>
>
>
>
>
> Listers -
>
>
>
>
>
> Since I have another two months to wait for Vans to
ship my standard
> wing kit, I'd like to hear some comments, experiences or recommendations
> regarding manual vs. electric aileron trim in the RV-7.
>
>
>
>
>
> Neal
>
>
> RV-7 N8ZG
>
>
> (STILL waiting for wings)
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Trim |
Hi Neal;
Roll forces on an RV are very light so an aileron trim is not needed in the
sense of reducing control forces but more in the sense of dealing with small
and subtle roll trim changes during cruise flight due to, for instance, fuel
burn from one tank at a time. Thus roll trim mostly consists of a tiny, once
every half hour or so, adjustments.
From my practical experience in a -6A, the Vans manual trim system is more
than adequate for this purpose. It is also, simple, light, and involves no
mods to the aileron itself. There is also no wiring with fuses/circuit
breakers to deal with in the fuselage or out on the wing. The only slight
downside it that the manual trim system makes removing the seat pans a bit
more time consuming than a pure electric system with, for instance, stick
mounted trim button.
Maybe, I am just a just a traditionalist as I find the Vans manual elevator
trim system also perfectly adequate and simple, direct acting, with no lag,
etc.
So my advice would be to stick with the Vans manual elevator and aileron
trim systems and leave tinkering with unnecessary electric trim systems
alone.
Others will, I am sure, disagree.
Jim Oke
RV-3, RV-6A
Wpg., MB
----- Original Message -----
From: "George Neal E Capt AU/PC" <Neal.George(at)maxwell.af.mil>
Subject: RV-List: Aileron Trim
>
> Listers -
>
>
> Since I have another two months to wait for Vans to ship my standard wing
> kit, I'd like to hear some comments, experiences or recommendations
> regarding manual vs. electric aileron trim in the RV-7.
>
>
> Neal
>
> RV-7 N8ZG
>
> (STILL waiting for wings)
>
>
>
>
>
> Listers -
>
>
>
>
>
> Since I have another two months to wait for Vans to
ship my standard
> wing kit, I'd like to hear some comments, experiences or recommendations
> regarding manual vs. electric aileron trim in the RV-7.
>
>
>
>
>
> Neal
>
>
> RV-7 N8ZG
>
>
> (STILL waiting for wings)
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Mortimore <terry.mortimore(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Can someone bring me up to speed - RV-6A nose wheel problems. |
Hi Gang:
I'm finally going to be able to get back to building my RV-6A after too
long a break. I'm going to order my fuselage kit and I have to decide
which version to build.
My situation has changed and it looks like I will be based on a 2000
foot grass strip that does have some rough spots. At the time I was
forced to put my project on the back burner there was a problem with the
nose wheel rod on the 6A's, some had broken and I believe there was a
recall of sorts.
My question, have there been any problems since? Has the problem been
corrected?
I would prefer the 6A, but if there is any doubt about it I would go
with the 6 and get some tailwheel training.
thanks, terry.
Terry Mortimore,
426 McNabb Street
Sault Ste Marie, Ontario
Canada P6B-1Z3
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Can someone bring me up to speed - RV-6A nose |
wheel problems.
problems.
From what I have read either model can end up on its nose. Full up
elevator really helps on an A model. Traditionally a tail dragger appears
to be the more off road capable. Call the factory to verify the latest in
landing gear changes.
>
>
>Hi Gang:
>
>I'm finally going to be able to get back to building my RV-6A after too
>long a break. I'm going to order my fuselage kit and I have to decide
>which version to build.
>
>My situation has changed and it looks like I will be based on a 2000
>foot grass strip that does have some rough spots. At the time I was
>forced to put my project on the back burner there was a problem with the
>nose wheel rod on the 6A's, some had broken and I believe there was a
>recall of sorts.
>
>My question, have there been any problems since? Has the problem been
>corrected?
>
>I would prefer the 6A, but if there is any doubt about it I would go
>with the 6 and get some tailwheel training.
>
>
> thanks, terry.
>
>
>Terry Mortimore,
>426 McNabb Street
>Sault Ste Marie, Ontario
>Canada P6B-1Z3
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel Servo problem |
| From: | "Berthet, Andre G" <andre.g.berthet(at)intel.com> |
I have an IO-360-A1A and have a strange problem. When the engine is hot,
turning the booster pump ON will results in a substantial drop of RPM.
Let say if I set my engine speed to 1300 RPM and then turn the booster
ON, the engine speed will decrease by about 500 RPM. Of course if I do
that at a normal idling of 700 RPM, the engine just quit. My servo has
been overhauled in January, re-inspected in June and I'm sending it back
again. The flow divider and the fuel nozzles have been overhauled last
June too. Also the idling speed is changing depending if the engine is
hot or cold. My mixture is adjusted for a 25 RPM rise at ICO.
My engine driven pump alone produces 23 PSI of fuel pressure, and when
the booster pump is turned ON it increases the pressure to 28 PSI.
Could anyone have suggestions how to fix this problem?
Andre
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Martin Hone" <mctrader(at)bigpond.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: LED Navigation Light Project |
Hi Doug,
If you want to go with a simple bulb change, there are LED replacements
currently avaliable. I have seen them advertised in electronic component
catalogues, as well as some motorcycle accessory suppliers. They are ideal
as tail-light globes in that high vibration environment. You can get them in
red and clear, dunno about green though......
Just a thought....
Martin in Oz
RV6 flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Servo problem |
Don't turn on the pump. We lost a plane that turned the pump on during the
first flight, killed the engine and could not restart because it was
flooded. Ask Greg Young. Pump is a standby for when the engine pump fails.
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Berthet, Andre G" <andre.g.berthet(at)intel.com>
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Servo problem
>
> I have an IO-360-A1A and have a strange problem. When the engine is hot,
> turning the booster pump ON will results in a substantial drop of RPM.
> Let say if I set my engine speed to 1300 RPM and then turn the booster
> ON, the engine speed will decrease by about 500 RPM. Of course if I do
> that at a normal idling of 700 RPM, the engine just quit. My servo has
> been overhauled in January, re-inspected in June and I'm sending it back
> again. The flow divider and the fuel nozzles have been overhauled last
> June too. Also the idling speed is changing depending if the engine is
> hot or cold. My mixture is adjusted for a 25 RPM rise at ICO.
>
> My engine driven pump alone produces 23 PSI of fuel pressure, and when
> the booster pump is turned ON it increases the pressure to 28 PSI.
>
> Could anyone have suggestions how to fix this problem?
>
> Andre
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Servo problem |
>
> Don't turn on the pump. We lost a plane that turned the pump
> on during the first flight, killed the engine and could not
> restart because it was flooded. Ask Greg Young. Pump is a
> standby for when the engine pump fails.
>
> Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
> Safety Programs Editor - TC
> EAA Sport Pilot
Cy, I believe you. However, what sort of fuel servos are we talking
about? I can't imagine (again, I believe it) why anyone would design a
fuel servo that was that sensitive to fuel pressure. I understand that
some Bonanzas are not to have the boost pump on unless mechanical pump
failure.
Just FYI, the Airflow Performance servo is not affected by the increase
in fuel pressure when the boost pump is on. In fact, that is how one
can determine if the base engine pump pressure is adequate - fuel flow
on full power, full rich, should not increase when the boost pump
increases the pressure a few psi.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 510 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: LED Navigation Light Project |
Ok I found some LED bulbs, here:
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/commerce.cgi?product=CAR
Does anyone know if a 1156 bulb will fit in a grimes nav light socket??? If
not, what are the technical specs on the bayonet on a Nav light bulb???
Doug Rozendaal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Can someone bring me up to speed - RV-6A nose wheel problems. |
>
> Terry:
>
> Van's came out with a revised -6A nosegear after doing some
> fatigue testing a few years ago. There's probably
> information about it on their web site, or you could just call.
>
> I would think that any field that was smooth enough that
> you'd want to operate off it daily with a -6 would also be
> smooth enough for a -6A. (Before anyone jumps on me for
> being nosegear biased: I'm building a -6.)
>
I would not agree in general with that statement. I would classify
crummy field condition as the single best reason to put up with whatever
challenges one might feel a taildragger might have. The conditions
which are nasty for the trikes are the waves in the field, perhaps
something like 20 feet long. The problem with those is that they may
resonate with the natural frequency of the plane's oscillations. I've
been in quite a few grass strips, and they all have some degree of this
waviness. The best technique that I've found is to hold some aft stick
during the rollout (or takeoff), but not full aft stick. AND, do not
try to control the pitch attitude of the plane with the elevators during
any field induced excursions - you will only get into a PIO. Hold some
aft stick and freeze it there. Now, large holes in the field are an
entirely different animal...
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 510 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Recreational destination - Not building related |
There were several who emailed me and asked me about my trip to Jackson/Westover
Field and the Jackson Rancheria Casino. I emailed them and asked them about
transportation to and from the airport. This was the reply I received:
Dear Scott
My Name is Dennis Brown Im the Director of Transportation Services for the Jackson
Rancheria. I want to thank your for your suggestion and let you know
that we do offer that from the airport in Jackson. If you and the other people
that are interested in being transported would contact the Casino Managers office
with a date and time of arrival they can contact my office with the information
and we will make the arrangements to pick you up. The phone number for the Casino
Managers office is 209-223-8243 or you can contact me at 209-223-8297. If I can
be of any further assistants please feel free to call me.
Dennis Brown
Director
Transportation Services
209-223-8297
E-mail dbrown(at)jacksoncasino.com
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Servo problem |
I am not an A&P nor did I stay in a Holiday Inn Express last night. I
discussed Greg Young's problem at the time with my IA, a well-known Bonanza
Mechanic. He said that this is a well known problem when the boost pump has
more pressure than the engine driven one. My SWAG would be to reduce the
pressure to what the engine driven pump is required to produce for the
injection system.
Cy Galley
Safety Programs Editor
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel Servo problem
>
>
> >
> > Don't turn on the pump. We lost a plane that turned the pump
> > on during the first flight, killed the engine and could not
> > restart because it was flooded. Ask Greg Young. Pump is a
> > standby for when the engine pump fails.
> >
> > Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
> > Safety Programs Editor - TC
> > EAA Sport Pilot
>
> Cy, I believe you. However, what sort of fuel servos are we talking
> about? I can't imagine (again, I believe it) why anyone would design a
> fuel servo that was that sensitive to fuel pressure. I understand that
> some Bonanzas are not to have the boost pump on unless mechanical pump
> failure.
>
> Just FYI, the Airflow Performance servo is not affected by the increase
> in fuel pressure when the boost pump is on. In fact, that is how one
> can determine if the base engine pump pressure is adequate - fuel flow
> on full power, full rich, should not increase when the boost pump
> increases the pressure a few psi.
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> RV6-A N66AP 510 hours
> http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
You can build your own respirator for under $50. Check the archives for
details...
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Craig Warner" <cwarner(at)twcny.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: Respirators
>
> At Oshkosh this year I heard the best explanation of the need for a fresh
air breathing system. The Tech support guy for Poly Fiber(sorry I don't
remember his name) explained it this way. Everybody has a tea cup attached
to their hip. Everybody's cup is a different size. When the toxins from
spraying paint enter your body through, lungs, eyes and skin, it remains in
your liver and kidney forever. What you absorb when your 20 will be there
when your 90. When your tea cup gets full you get sick. That is why some
people get a reaction the first time they are exposed (small tea cup) others
never are affected (big cup). The bottom line is nobody knows how much
exposure is too much for them ( cup size). After having painted 3 RV's and
not knowing what level my personnel cup was I decided to spend $400 for a
Hoby-air with a full hood
> .
> He also stated that a charcoal respirator will not absorb the cyanide
contained in the hardener for the newer acrylic paints.
>
> Best regards
> Craig Warner
> N2851P
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | 7A Flap Hinge Fun - Or not |
I have been reading the archives and looking at web sites and I'm slightly perplexed
regarding the (what should be) simple installation of the flaps.
1. Is this the correct order - Dimple the skin, countersink the brace to accept
the skin dimple, and leave the hinge alone. So the brace is between the top skin
and the hinge bracket? Just doesn't look right that way.
2. Also if you look at the pictures at http://brian76.mystarband.net/WingsMar03.htm (BTW...thanks Brian for documenting this on the web site) the hinge protrudes about an inch and a half or so inboard. In other words it isn't riveted to the skin, hinge bracket and brace. Only the bracket and brace go all the way inboard. Do I just rivet those or does something attach later? I can't find anything that does.
Thanks,
Karie Daniel
RV-7A QB (feels like a slow build)
Sammamish, WA.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 7A Flap Hinge Fun - Or not |
OK....I looked at dwg 14A just after sending this and the answer to question
#1 is in glowing neon. I swear I looked at it for an hour before sending the
mail. I'm still wondering about #2 though.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: 7A Flap Hinge Fun - Or not
>
> I have been reading the archives and looking at web sites and I'm slightly
perplexed regarding the (what should be) simple installation of the flaps.
>
> 1. Is this the correct order - Dimple the skin, countersink the brace to
accept the skin dimple, and leave the hinge alone. So the brace is between
the top skin and the hinge bracket? Just doesn't look right that way.
>
> 2. Also if you look at the pictures at
http://brian76.mystarband.net/WingsMar03.htm (BTW...thanks Brian for
documenting this on the web site) the hinge protrudes about an inch and a
half or so inboard. In other words it isn't riveted to the skin, hinge
bracket and brace. Only the bracket and brace go all the way inboard. Do I
just rivet those or does something attach later? I can't find anything that
does.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Karie Daniel
> RV-7A QB (feels like a slow build)
> Sammamish, WA.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Bell" <dbell(at)manisteenational.com> |
| Subject: | First Flight N266WB |
Well,
After 5 1/2 years of building and working as all others have, N266WB took flight
on a perfect summer Sunday in Northern Michigan
RV8
Kit # 80889
O360 A4M
Fixed pitch Catto 3 Blade Prop
Ellison Throttle Body
Basic VFR
My father and I have been slowing down this quick build for a while now but it
all came to a perfect first flight at 830pm on 8/8/04. The flight went very well
and lasted about 35 minutes. Take off was as expected and I spent most of
the time around 3500-4500 ft making gradual passes around the field in Cadillac
MI. One high speed run indicated 145mph but I was not trimmed properly so
I was climbing most of the run. All temps stayed in line and I never felt anything
but confidence. Only thing that I noticed was a heavy left wing. Landing
was pretty good if I do say so myself and caught on film it looks good every
time I replay it.
Many thanks go out to all the listers I read emails from. I read more than contribute
and appreciate all of your emails.
Thanks to Danny King for a thanksgiving weekend ride for me and an earlier one
for my father, to Mike Seger for early RV training flights and to Dave Lammers
of Cedar Rapids IA. I flew last week with Dave for my RV checkout and his training
gave me all the confidence I needed for first flight. I would highly recommend
anyone flying with Dave if you can. First class in every way and a terrific
instructor. Thanks to my Co Building Dad and his inspiration to me to
tackle this project. We did it together and that is awesome. To may Mom for
supplying lunch and dinner so many nights and winter days and to my broter Mike
for keeping the hanger plowed open in the winter.
My sweetheart Ann, and the kids deserve many thanks for dealing with this crazy
idea and putting up with the final push to complete it. Family really does suffer
at some or all times while these things get built. Kudos to all you "better
halfs" out there.
So many other people are involved along the way and all deserve thanks. Vans support
was always great and I look forward to many trips and meeting all of you
out there at some fly in.
Look for the RV 8 with a golfer on the tail.
Here to seeing you all soon.
Doug Bell Jr., PGA
RV8
N266WB
Flying..........Oh that sounds so good!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fitting Completed Fuel Tank |
| From: | "" <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com> |
All,
I am finishing up my last wing and I have run into a unique problem. When fitting
the completed right fuel tank on the main spar, it does not want to fully
seat on the inboard side. There seems to be a large bulge on bottom side near
the spar/baffle intersection for the first inboard foot or so. I have done the
following:
- trimmed the excess proseal from the affected baffle intersection area to ensure
there is no interference
- re-shimmed the main spar to ensure there was no twist
- redone the string test to ensure there was no sag in the middle.
I can't for the life of me see what is going on, and I did not have this problem
on the first wing. The bulge is pretty excessive (1/8 - 1/4 inch), so it really
does not seem right. Anyone ever experienced this? Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Scott
7A Wings
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | First Flight N266WB |
Doug,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "Doug Bell" <dbell(at)manisteenational.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: First Flight N266WB
>Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2004 23:58:39 -0400
>
>
>Well,
>After 5 1/2 years of building and working as all others have, N266WB took
>flight on a perfect summer Sunday in Northern Michigan
>RV8
>Kit # 80889
>O360 A4M
>Fixed pitch Catto 3 Blade Prop
>Ellison Throttle Body
>Basic VFR
>
>My father and I have been slowing down this quick build for a while now but
>it all came to a perfect first flight at 830pm on 8/8/04. The flight went
>very well and lasted about 35 minutes. Take off was as expected and I
>spent most of the time around 3500-4500 ft making gradual passes around the
>field in Cadillac MI. One high speed run indicated 145mph but I was not
>trimmed properly so I was climbing most of the run. All temps stayed in
>line and I never felt anything but confidence. Only thing that I noticed
>was a heavy left wing. Landing was pretty good if I do say so myself and
>caught on film it looks good every time I replay it.
>Many thanks go out to all the listers I read emails from. I read more than
>contribute and appreciate all of your emails.
>Thanks to Danny King for a thanksgiving weekend ride for me and an earlier
>one for my father, to Mike Seger for early RV training flights and to Dave
>Lammers of Cedar Rapids IA. I flew last week with Dave for my RV checkout
>and his training gave me all the confidence I needed for first flight. I
>would highly recommend anyone flying with Dave if you can. First class in
>every way and a terrific instructor. Thanks to my Co Building Dad and his
>inspiration to me to tackle this project. We did it together and that is
>awesome. To may Mom for supplying lunch and dinner so many nights and
>winter days and to my broter Mike for keeping the hanger plowed open in the
>winter.
>My sweetheart Ann, and the kids deserve many thanks for dealing with this
>crazy idea and putting up with the final push to complete it. Family
>really does suffer at some or all times while these things get built.
>Kudos to all you "better halfs" out there.
>So many other people are involved along the way and all deserve thanks.
>Vans support was always great and I look forward to many trips and meeting
>all of you out there at some fly in.
>Look for the RV 8 with a golfer on the tail.
>Here to seeing you all soon.
>Doug Bell Jr., PGA
>RV8
>N266WB
>Flying..........Oh that sounds so good!
>
>
Check out Election 2004 for up-to-date election news, plus voter tools and
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Todd Bartrim" <haywire(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Can someone bring me up to speed - RV-6A nose wheel problems. |
Hi Terry;
I'm a brand new pilot and did most of my learning on the RV-9a that I
built. During my test hours I flew to an unmaintained 2000' grass strip a
few times and I had absolutely no problems. I built my plane with both mains
for TG & TD, as I plan to one day put it on skis as a TD, but for bush
operations I currently feel no need to change to a TD for rough fields. I
have had the opportunity to do ~1.5 hours of touch & goes in an RV6 and
while I still could use more taildragger practice, I'm not against the TD,
but I do feel that the better visibility in the TG is nice when on a rough
strip. If you can see the hole, you can avoid the hole.
As a low time pilot, I realize I may not have the credibility of some of
the old-timers on the list who will surely want to start a primer war over
this (ouch... just kidding), but just wanted to say that If I can do it then
you shouldn't have any trouble.
Todd Bartrim
RV9Endurance
13B Turbo Rotary
C-FSTB
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
"The world will always have a place for those that bring hard
work and determination to the things they do."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Servo problem |
That accident sounds like it was on Bonanza, with a Continental
engine. Most of them have boost pumps with both Hi and Lo speed
settings. Putting the boost pump on Hi, with the engine driven pump
working, is known to cause the engine to stumble and maybe quit. But
I've never heard of this problem with Lycoming IO-360s, which have a
single speed boost pump.
According to my Lycoming Opeator's Manual, that engine should be able
to handle up to 45 psi at the inlet to the "fuel injector". The
context isn't completely clear, but they seem to use that term to
mean the fuel injection servo, which is bolted on the front of the
sump. So, I think there must be some sort of problem with the fuel
injection servo on that engine. Or an electric pump that is putting
out more than 45 psi, and a pressure gauge that reads low.
Kevin Horton
>
>I am not an A&P nor did I stay in a Holiday Inn Express last night. I
>discussed Greg Young's problem at the time with my IA, a well-known Bonanza
>Mechanic. He said that this is a well known problem when the boost pump has
>more pressure than the engine driven one. My SWAG would be to reduce the
>pressure to what the engine driven pump is required to produce for the
>injection system.
>
>Cy Galley
>Safety Programs Editor
>EAA Sport Pilot
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net>
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel Servo problem
>
>
>
>>
>>
>> >
>> > Don't turn on the pump. We lost a plane that turned the pump
>> > on during the first flight, killed the engine and could not
>> > restart because it was flooded. Ask Greg Young. Pump is a
>> > standby for when the engine pump fails.
>> >
>> > Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
>> > Safety Programs Editor - TC
> > > EAA Sport Pilot
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: LED Navigation Light Project |
| From: | alan(at)reichertech.com |
I bought some LED replacement lamps for my car to try them out. They
ended up being quite a bit dimmer than the regular lamps, so I went back
to the normal lamps.
This is only one experience, but it seems that (at least in the auto
sector) the technology is not yet there. The LED Project looks
interesting, though. I'll keep watching that one.
- Alan
> From: "Martin Hone" <mctrader(at)bigpond.net.au>
> Subject: RV-List: Re: LED Navigation Light Project
>
>
> Hi Doug,
>
> If you want to go with a simple bulb change, there are LED replacements
> currently avaliable. I have seen them advertised in electronic component
> catalogues, as well as some motorcycle accessory suppliers. They are ideal
> as tail-light globes in that high vibration environment. You can get them
> in
> red and clear, dunno about green though......
> Just a thought....
>
> Martin in Oz
> RV6 flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Trim |
My opinion on aileron trim is to use the manual option or none at all. When
using any electric trim (that is meant to include elevator trim also), you
are introducing another point of potential failure, and/or runaway. It
increases the number of wires you must install, and route.
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker" I must be about done, all my drill
bits seem dull.
The sincerest satisfactions in life come in doing and not dodging duty; in
meeting and solving problems, in facing facts, in being a dependable person.
- Richard L. Evans
----- Original Message -----
From: "George Neal E Capt AU/PC" <Neal.George(at)maxwell.af.mil>
Subject: RV-List: Aileron Trim
>
> Listers -
>
>
> Since I have another two months to wait for Vans to ship my standard wing
> kit, I'd like to hear some comments, experiences or recommendations
> regarding manual vs. electric aileron trim in the RV-7.
>
>
> Neal
>
> RV-7 N8ZG
>
> (STILL waiting for wings)
>
>
>
>
>
> Listers -
>
>
>
>
>
> Since I have another two months to wait for Vans to
ship my standard
> wing kit, I'd like to hear some comments, experiences or recommendations
> regarding manual vs. electric aileron trim in the RV-7.
>
>
>
>
>
> Neal
>
>
> RV-7 N8ZG
>
>
> (STILL waiting for wings)
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Can someone bring me up to speed - RV-6A nose wheel problems. |
The A model will be easier to land, take off, and taxi with. The TW will
require you to get more flight training to get the TW endorsement. Some say
the TW endorsement will make you a better pilot. I am not wanting to start
a NW/TW skirmish here and I am not saying NW pilots cannot be as good as TW.
Also consider how it looks on the ground and if a time will come when you
might sell it. The NW could have more potential buyers. The NW is a bit
more challenging to build.
The type of field you land on and your skill level should help you make this
decision. Either option can be landed and taxied well with dedication to
concentrating on the situation. TW just requires more of it all the time
IMO........ Insurance may be a bit more on the TW especially for low-time
TW'er.
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
The sincerest satisfactions in life come in doing and not dodging duty; in
meeting and solving problems, in facing facts, in being a dependable person.
- Richard L. Evans
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Bilinski wheel problems." <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Can someone bring me up to speed - RV-6A nose wheel
problems.
<bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com> wheel problems.
>
> From what I have read either model can end up on its nose. Full up
> elevator really helps on an A model. Traditionally a tail dragger appears
> to be the more off road capable. Call the factory to verify the latest in
> landing gear changes.
>
>
> >
> >
> >Hi Gang:
> >
> >I'm finally going to be able to get back to building my RV-6A after too
> >long a break. I'm going to order my fuselage kit and I have to decide
> >which version to build.
> >
> >My situation has changed and it looks like I will be based on a 2000
> >foot grass strip that does have some rough spots. At the time I was
> >forced to put my project on the back burner there was a problem with the
> >nose wheel rod on the 6A's, some had broken and I believe there was a
> >recall of sorts.
> >
> >My question, have there been any problems since? Has the problem been
> >corrected?
> >
> >I would prefer the 6A, but if there is any doubt about it I would go
> >with the 6 and get some tailwheel training.
> >
> >
> > thanks, terry.
> >
> >
> >Terry Mortimore,
> >426 McNabb Street
> >Sault Ste Marie, Ontario
> >Canada P6B-1Z3
> >
> >
>
>
> Scott Bilinski
> Eng dept 305
> Phone (858) 657-2536
> Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Can someone bring me up to speed - RV-6A nose wheel problems. |
In a message dated 8/10/04 8:11:05 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
lhelming(at)sigecom.net writes:
> The NW is a bit
> more challenging to build.
>
??? Now you have my interest. Why ?
Sal
Lakeland, FL
RV-4
RV-8 tail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Servo problem |
Greg Young had an RV-6 and is currently re-building.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Horton" <khorton01(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Servo problem
>
> That accident sounds like it was on Bonanza, with a Continental
> engine. Most of them have boost pumps with both Hi and Lo speed
> settings. Putting the boost pump on Hi, with the engine driven pump
> working, is known to cause the engine to stumble and maybe quit. But
> I've never heard of this problem with Lycoming IO-360s, which have a
> single speed boost pump.
>
> According to my Lycoming Opeator's Manual, that engine should be able
> to handle up to 45 psi at the inlet to the "fuel injector". The
> context isn't completely clear, but they seem to use that term to
> mean the fuel injection servo, which is bolted on the front of the
> sump. So, I think there must be some sort of problem with the fuel
> injection servo on that engine. Or an electric pump that is putting
> out more than 45 psi, and a pressure gauge that reads low.
>
> Kevin Horton
>
> >
> >I am not an A&P nor did I stay in a Holiday Inn Express last night. I
> >discussed Greg Young's problem at the time with my IA, a well-known
Bonanza
> >Mechanic. He said that this is a well known problem when the boost pump
has
> >more pressure than the engine driven one. My SWAG would be to reduce the
> >pressure to what the engine driven pump is required to produce for the
> >injection system.
> >
> >Cy Galley
> >Safety Programs Editor
> >EAA Sport Pilot
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net>
> >To:
> >Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel Servo problem
> >
> >
> >
> >>
> >>
> >> >
> >> > Don't turn on the pump. We lost a plane that turned the pump
> >> > on during the first flight, killed the engine and could not
> >> > restart because it was flooded. Ask Greg Young. Pump is a
> >> > standby for when the engine pump fails.
> >> >
> >> > Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
> >> > Safety Programs Editor - TC
> > > > EAA Sport Pilot
> >>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Durakovich <ddurakovich(at)yahoo.com> |
Anyone have an idea of appropriate part numbers for a flywheel for an O-360?
Plain jane, no de-ice, etc., but do need alternator belt (standard size!) capabilities.
Going on a RV-4....
Thanks,
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lui" <signco(at)ev1.net> |
Just wondering if anyone has any suggestion for a good Altimeter source.
So far I have seen the low end Falcons for $100+ and the upper United $500+.
Any other that I may be missing?
Are those Falcons any good?
Luis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jordan Grant" <gra9933(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | How to make a fresh air respirator |
Question about using a vac for your fresh-air source: Does the air that you
breath get hot?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard Scott
Subject: RV-List: How to make a fresh air respirator
This system costs less than $120 and gives you filtered air from a remote
location, similar to a Hobby Air.
1. Get a small shop vac called "The Stinger" from Home Depot for about
$28. Use it only for your respirator.
2. Get a Tyvek painting hood from an auto paint supplier for about $28.
3. Get a swimming pool vacuum hose, 1.5" diameter, about $40-50, a little
less in the fall when business slows. I bought 50 feet, it is also sold in
40 ft. lengths; Hobby Air uses 40 ft.
4. Pick up a belt clip from your hardware store's key section and a hose
clamp for your pool hose.
Take the small orange attachment from the shop vac and cut off the spreader
portion, saving the round tube portion. This is your adapter you will use
to mate the pool hose to the shop vac hose. Connect the pool hose to the
shop vac hose and the hood, but making sure you use the end that swivels
for the spray hood. Attach the belt clip to the pool hose near the hood
with a zip tie.
Take an old baseball cap and cut off the bill. Attach that to the inside
of the hood with a couple safety pins or whatever such that it your head
movements.
Put a belt around your chest and use the belt clip to keep the hose weight
from pulling on the hood.
Locate the vac in a safe location & spray away! Be sure to be aware of any
changes in the wind.
Notes:
1. If you try to go cheap & use 1 1/4" pool hose it will set up a howl
that earplugs won't even begin to deal with. The larger diameter hose
reduces the velocity & removes the howl. However, a fellow builder did go
with the smaller hose and reports that placing an old 35mm film can in the
hose slowed the air enough to quiet the howl. I have not tried this. The
1 1/4" hose will connect directly to the shop vac hose without the adapter.
2. I have not tried the baseball cap thing yet. I have used the system
without it and as I tilt my head up or down the hood does not follow. So
far, I have always had a free hand to adjust the hood as necessary, but I
do intend to try the baseball cap thing, just haven't needed to yet.
3. There are peel off lenses available for the hood. Some paint suppliers
carry them, some don't, some that do only sell them in a package , rather
than individually. You may have to cough up ~ $25 for a package of them.
Richard Scott
RV-9A Emp almost done
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Servo problem |
> Don't turn on the pump. We lost a plane that turned the pump on during
the
> first flight, killed the engine and could not restart because it was
> flooded. Ask Greg Young. Pump is a standby for when the engine pump
fails.
Huh?!? This sure sounds like an isolated incident.
If turning on the boost pump floods the engine, fix the problem.
On my IO-360-A1B6 w/Airflow Performance injection, my high pressure boost
pump is ON during every takeoff and landing, and whenever switching tanks.
Operating the boost pump should essentially not alter the engine operating
characteristics at all in normal conditions.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <rv6flyer(at)improvementteam.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Boost Pump Location RV-6 |
I must say I have monitored this list for several years and I have poked
around in the archives some. I remember lots of different pictures over the
years about this - But...
I had intended to place my fuel pump under the fuel valve as I have seen
done before. I think there is room however I am not now able to find a
fitting to connect the pump (flared) fitting directly to the fuel valve
(pipe) fitting. There does not seem to be enough room to build a short
piece of tubing there and still get out under the fuel pump to the engine
I really don't like placing the pump sticking out of the left side of the
cockpit. It would seem more work than I want to put it in the wing root and
plumb through the metal two extra times.
I am now looking for ideas from scratch. I have no plumbing in the cabin
yet for fuel but my gascolator is mounted on the left side of the firewall
with the incoming port coming through the firewall behind the pedals.
Any new ideas, pictures, etc...? When a plan doesn't work you just
re-work the plan.
Thanks for any help
Tim Bryan
RV-6 N616TB
Emp kit purchased in Feb- 1990
Will FLY this year!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Shemp" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Servo problem |
I have a Bendix injector and when I turn on the b.p., the engine rpm drops
for a half second, then comes back up to normal. I see a surge on my fuel
pressure gauge but then it returns to normal. I dont feel any change at
above idle settings.
Shemp
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Horton" <khorton01(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Servo problem
>
> That accident sounds like it was on Bonanza, with a Continental
> engine. Most of them have boost pumps with both Hi and Lo speed
> settings. Putting the boost pump on Hi, with the engine driven pump
> working, is known to cause the engine to stumble and maybe quit. But
> I've never heard of this problem with Lycoming IO-360s, which have a
> single speed boost pump.
>
> According to my Lycoming Opeator's Manual, that engine should be able
> to handle up to 45 psi at the inlet to the "fuel injector". The
> context isn't completely clear, but they seem to use that term to
> mean the fuel injection servo, which is bolted on the front of the
> sump. So, I think there must be some sort of problem with the fuel
> injection servo on that engine. Or an electric pump that is putting
> out more than 45 psi, and a pressure gauge that reads low.
>
> Kevin Horton
>
> >
> >I am not an A&P nor did I stay in a Holiday Inn Express last night. I
> >discussed Greg Young's problem at the time with my IA, a well-known
Bonanza
> >Mechanic. He said that this is a well known problem when the boost pump
has
> >more pressure than the engine driven one. My SWAG would be to reduce the
> >pressure to what the engine driven pump is required to produce for the
> >injection system.
> >
> >Cy Galley
> >Safety Programs Editor
> >EAA Sport Pilot
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net>
> >To:
> >Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel Servo problem
> >
> >
> >
> >>
> >>
> >> >
> >> > Don't turn on the pump. We lost a plane that turned the pump
> >> > on during the first flight, killed the engine and could not
> >> > restart because it was flooded. Ask Greg Young. Pump is a
> >> > standby for when the engine pump fails.
> >> >
> >> > Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
> >> > Safety Programs Editor - TC
> > > > EAA Sport Pilot
> >>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Monty Barrett" <bpa(at)bpaengines.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Boost Pump Location RV-6 |
Wherever you put the Boost pump, it should be on the " cold side " of the
firewall, NOT in the engine compartment. Boost pumps do not survive the
high temps present in the engine bay. They are much happier and live longer
If kept away from the heat as much as practical.
Monty Barrett
BPA Engines.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Boost Pump Location RV-6
I must say I have monitored this list for several years and I have poked
around in the archives some. I remember lots of different pictures over the
years about this - But...
I had intended to place my fuel pump under the fuel valve as I have seen
done before. I think there is room however I am not now able to find a
fitting to connect the pump (flared) fitting directly to the fuel valve
(pipe) fitting. There does not seem to be enough room to build a short
piece of tubing there and still get out under the fuel pump to the engine
I really don't like placing the pump sticking out of the left side of the
cockpit. It would seem more work than I want to put it in the wing root and
plumb through the metal two extra times.
I am now looking for ideas from scratch. I have no plumbing in the cabin
yet for fuel but my gascolator is mounted on the left side of the firewall
with the incoming port coming through the firewall behind the pedals.
Any new ideas, pictures, etc...? When a plan doesn't work you just
re-work the plan.
Thanks for any help
Tim Bryan
RV-6 N616TB
Emp kit purchased in Feb- 1990
Will FLY this year!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Last I heard Bonanza's have Continental engines not Lycomings.
The Continental continous flow system is very pressure dependant as the
pressure created by fuel pump RPM is how it knows the engine speed, the
Precision/Bendix RSA system used on lycomings isn't.
It sounds like something may be wrong in the servo. Does mixture setting
alter the behaviour? Does the pressure to the flow divider change with the
boost pump on, if so, it shouldn't so it would have to be in the servo.
W
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Servo problem
From: "Berthet, Andre G" <andre.g.berthet(at)intel.com>
I have an IO-360-A1A and have a strange problem. When the engine is hot,
turning the booster pump ON will results in a substantial drop of RPM.
Let say if I set my engine speed to 1300 RPM and then turn the booster
ON, the engine speed will decrease by about 500 RPM. Of course if I do
that at a normal idling of 700 RPM, the engine just quit. My servo has
been overhauled in January, re-inspected in June and I'm sending it back
again. The flow divider and the fuel nozzles have been overhauled last
June too. Also the idling speed is changing depending if the engine is
hot or cold. My mixture is adjusted for a 25 RPM rise at ICO.
My engine driven pump alone produces 23 PSI of fuel pressure, and when
the booster pump is turned ON it increases the pressure to 28 PSI.
Could anyone have suggestions how to fix this problem?
Andre
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How to make a fresh air respirator |
Not the one I use, I think the volume is too high ,and it is the pressure
that would cause the temp rise. Perhaps the air expands when it comes into
the painter's hood, but it feels refreshingly cool right on the back of my
neck where it comes out of the hose.
Scott in vancouver
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jordan Grant" <gra9933(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: How to make a fresh air respirator
>
>
> Question about using a vac for your fresh-air source: Does the air that
you
> breath get hot?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard Scott
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: How to make a fresh air respirator
>
>
> This system costs less than $120 and gives you filtered air from a remote
> location, similar to a Hobby Air.
>
> 1. Get a small shop vac called "The Stinger" from Home Depot for about
> $28. Use it only for your respirator.
>
> 2. Get a Tyvek painting hood from an auto paint supplier for about $28.
>
> 3. Get a swimming pool vacuum hose, 1.5" diameter, about $40-50, a little
> less in the fall when business slows. I bought 50 feet, it is also sold
in
> 40 ft. lengths; Hobby Air uses 40 ft.
>
> 4. Pick up a belt clip from your hardware store's key section and a hose
> clamp for your pool hose.
>
> Take the small orange attachment from the shop vac and cut off the
spreader
> portion, saving the round tube portion. This is your adapter you will use
> to mate the pool hose to the shop vac hose. Connect the pool hose to the
> shop vac hose and the hood, but making sure you use the end that swivels
> for the spray hood. Attach the belt clip to the pool hose near the hood
> with a zip tie.
>
> Take an old baseball cap and cut off the bill. Attach that to the inside
> of the hood with a couple safety pins or whatever such that it your head
> movements.
>
> Put a belt around your chest and use the belt clip to keep the hose weight
> from pulling on the hood.
>
> Locate the vac in a safe location & spray away! Be sure to be aware of
any
> changes in the wind.
>
> Notes:
> 1. If you try to go cheap & use 1 1/4" pool hose it will set up a howl
> that earplugs won't even begin to deal with. The larger diameter hose
> reduces the velocity & removes the howl. However, a fellow builder did go
> with the smaller hose and reports that placing an old 35mm film can in the
> hose slowed the air enough to quiet the howl. I have not tried this. The
> 1 1/4" hose will connect directly to the shop vac hose without the
adapter.
> 2. I have not tried the baseball cap thing yet. I have used the system
> without it and as I tilt my head up or down the hood does not follow. So
> far, I have always had a free hand to adjust the hood as necessary, but I
> do intend to try the baseball cap thing, just haven't needed to yet.
> 3. There are peel off lenses available for the hood. Some paint
suppliers
> carry them, some don't, some that do only sell them in a package , rather
> than individually. You may have to cough up ~ $25 for a package of them.
>
> Richard Scott
> RV-9A Emp almost done
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
get a rebuilt one from Rudy's aircraft instrument's for about $375.00. They
work and look great.
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "lui" <signco(at)ev1.net>
Subject: RV-List: ALT
>
> Just wondering if anyone has any suggestion for a good Altimeter source.
> So far I have seen the low end Falcons for $100+ and the upper United
$500+.
> Any other that I may be missing?
> Are those Falcons any good?
>
> Luis
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Fitting Completed Fuel Tank |
Scott,
I'm sure you've checked but make sure the tank isn't hanging up an any of
the spar rivets. Some of the spar rivets fall REAL close to the tank
baffle. You may have to stick an inspection mirror in somewhere to peek.
I assume the inboard z-bracket isn't sitting all the way down on the spar
flange and that whatever is hanging up is preventing this?
Matthew Brandes,
Van's RV-9A (Fuselage)
EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andy Karmy <andy(at)karmy.com> |
Well, I have a falcon, I had to adjust it by removing the little screw
and resetting the knob to get it to agree with pressure vs altitude. It
seems to work fine, however the needles are never still while flying.
My plane is dynamically balanced, and I still get hand vibrations that
I assume is due to a cheap unit. Don't know if a $500 one would damp
out those vibrations or not.
- Andy Karmy
andy(at)karmy.com
On Aug 10, 2004, at 6:28 AM, lui wrote:
>
> Just wondering if anyone has any suggestion for a good Altimeter
> source.
> So far I have seen the low end Falcons for $100+ and the upper United
> $500+.
> Any other that I may be missing?
> Are those Falcons any good?
>
> Luis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Boost Pump Location RV-6 |
> Wherever you put the Boost pump, it should be on the " cold side " of the
> firewall, NOT in the engine compartment. Boost pumps do not survive the
> high temps present in the engine bay. They are much happier and live
longer
> If kept away from the heat as much as practical.
I beg to differ. I had a round Facet boost pump on my '77 Cheetah that did
quite well on the engine side of the firewall. With that, I put the same
kind on my -6A on the engine side of the firewall. Works like a charm.
Maybe the little square ones that Van's sells don't last in the heat; but, I
didn't care too much for those, anyway.
I personally don't care for having the boost pump in the cabin with me.
Because I put mine on the engine side, it was easy to T off that for the
primer valve, as well.
Oh, yeah. I don't have a gascolator, either. That's another discussion, in
itself. :-)
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
RV-7A #70317 (Finishing the tail)
EAA Technical Counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <rv6flyer(at)improvementteam.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Boost Pump Location RV-6 |
Thanks all for the great ideas and pictures. My boost pump will definately
be in the cabin area, just a matter of where.
Tommy sent me a picture of the -7 idea that also fits the description of the
another poster. This seems like a reasonable solution. I do have my
battery box in the stock -6 location but should be able to navigate this no
problem.
Thanks to all
Tim
-------Original Message-------
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Date: 08/10/04 12:32:11
Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel Boost Pump Location RV-6
Wherever you put the Boost pump, it should be on the " cold side " of the
firewall, NOT in the engine compartment. Boost pumps do not survive the
high temps present in the engine bay. They are much happier and live longer
If kept away from the heat as much as practical.
Monty Barrett
BPA Engines.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Boost Pump Location RV-6
I must say I have monitored this list for several years and I have poked
around in the archives some. I remember lots of different pictures over the
years about this - But...
I had intended to place my fuel pump under the fuel valve as I have seen
done before. I think there is room however I am not now able to find a
fitting to connect the pump (flared) fitting directly to the fuel valve
(pipe) fitting. There does not seem to be enough room to build a short
piece of tubing there and still get out under the fuel pump to the engine
I really don't like placing the pump sticking out of the left side of the
cockpit. It would seem more work than I want to put it in the wing root and
plumb through the metal two extra times.
I am now looking for ideas from scratch. I have no plumbing in the cabin
yet for fuel but my gascolator is mounted on the left side of the firewall
with the incoming port coming through the firewall behind the pedals.
Any new ideas, pictures, etc...? When a plan doesn't work you just
re-work the plan.
Thanks for any help
Tim Bryan
RV-6 N616TB
Emp kit purchased in Feb- 1990
Will FLY this year!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
Falcon gages are made in Red China. I consider their stuff to be
garbage.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Andy Karmy
Subject: Re: RV-List: ALT
Well, I have a falcon, I had to adjust it by removing the little screw
and resetting the knob to get it to agree with pressure vs altitude. It
seems to work fine, however the needles are never still while flying.
My plane is dynamically balanced, and I still get hand vibrations that
I assume is due to a cheap unit. Don't know if a $500 one would damp
out those vibrations or not.
- Andy Karmy
andy(at)karmy.com
On Aug 10, 2004, at 6:28 AM, lui wrote:
>
> Just wondering if anyone has any suggestion for a good Altimeter
> source.
> So far I have seen the low end Falcons for $100+ and the upper United
> $500+.
> Any other that I may be missing?
> Are those Falcons any good?
>
> Luis
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Boost Pump Location RV-6 |
At 04:52 PM 8/10/2004, you wrote:
>
> > Wherever you put the Boost pump, it should be on the " cold side " of the
> > firewall, NOT in the engine compartment. Boost pumps do not survive the
> > high temps present in the engine bay. They are much happier and live
>longer
> > If kept away from the heat as much as practical.
>
>I beg to differ. I had a round Facet boost pump on my '77 Cheetah that did
>quite well on the engine side of the firewall. With that, I put the same
>kind on my -6A on the engine side of the firewall. Works like a charm.
>Maybe the little square ones that Van's sells don't last in the heat; but, I
>didn't care too much for those, anyway.
>I personally don't care for having the boost pump in the cabin with me.
>Because I put mine on the engine side, it was easy to T off that for the
>primer valve, as well.
>Oh, yeah. I don't have a gascolator, either. That's another discussion, in
>itself. :-)
>
>Jim Sears in KY
>RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
>RV-7A #70317 (Finishing the tail)
>EAA Technical Counselor
Jim
I believe the discussion was referring to fuel injected boost pumps.
Charlie Kuss
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve&Anita Nyman" <nyman(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | TruTrak Servo Hardware |
I'm installing the roll servo in the right wing of my 7 and was curious what others
used for hardware to mount the servo to the bracket that replaces the lower
bellcrank bracket. The attach holes in the servo are threaded for an AN3 bolt
or an AN509-10 screw. I was thinking one of those with a lock washer and
Loctite, or maybe a long enough screw to go all the way through the servo housing
and put a lock nut on it.
Thanks
Steve
7QB
MEM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Weyant" <cweyant(at)chuckdirect.com> |
Who you guys using for insurance? Best quote I can get is $1,700 a year.
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | TruTrak Servo Hardware |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Servo problem |
> On my IO-360-A1B6 w/Airflow Performance injection, my high
> pressure boost pump is ON during every takeoff and landing,
> and whenever switching tanks. Operating the boost pump should
> essentially not alter the engine operating characteristics at
> all in normal conditions.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
Dan, why the pump when switching tanks?
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 510 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
Try Falcon Insurance,
830-257-1000
Jim Nelson
They did a good job for me on my RV6.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Weyant
Subject: RV-List: insurance
Who you guys using for insurance? Best quote I can get is $1,700 a
year.
Chuck
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Taylor" <mtaylo17(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | LED Bulb replacements for Nav Lights |
Gents,
You probably shouldn't use direct replacement LED bulbs for the NAV lights
as they're directional, and certain angle requirements have to be met.
That's why the proper LED nav lights you can buy have the LED bent all over
the place.
Mark.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: TruTrak Servo Hardware |
On my Altrak servo (same as the roll servo) I drilled out the threads and
put AN bolts clear through with washers and lock nuts. This will also safety
the small socket head screws nearby. I plan to do the same with the roll
servo.
Bob Trumpfheller
In a message dated 8/10/2004 5:50:24 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
nyman(at)bellsouth.net writes:
I'm installing the roll servo in the right wing of my 7 and was curious what
others used for hardware to mount the servo to the bracket that replaces the
lower bellcrank bracket. The attach holes in the servo are threaded for an
AN3 bolt or an AN509-10 screw. I was thinking one of those with a lock
washer and Loctite, or maybe a long enough screw to go all the way through the
servo housing and put a lock nut on it.
Thanks
Steve
7QB
MEM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com |
J.T. Helms has insured my last 3 birds.
Nationair - 877-475-5860
Doug
RV8 N127EK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Can someone bring me up to speed - RV-6A nose wheel problems. |
> Probably the biggest headache peculiar to the 6A, is installing the main
> landing gear weldments. The 6A shares the old 2 piece main spars of the 3,
> 4 & 6. Part of the reason for the newer 3 piece main spar, is that the
main
> gear and weldment sockets don't have to be removed to take the wings on or
off.
> Charlie Kuss
>
I must admit that I really do like that feature. However, there seems to be
that added security I have in the fact that my -6A has 80 bolts holding on
the wings. I'll have to do some adjusting to get comfortable with the 20
bolts, or so, on the -7A I'm building. :-)
Jim in KY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
> J.T. Helms has insured my last 3 birds.
>
> Nationair - 877-475-5860
I switched to Nationair this year. I was insured through another agent and
got a substantial savings by making the switch.
Jim Sears in KY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Servo problem |
>
> Dan, why the pump when switching tanks?
>
Alex,
Many low wing aircraft flight manuals call for boost pumps on while
switching tanks. This is especially important in higher altitude airplanes.
Between the vapor pressure of the fuel and the low ambient air pressure,
switching tanks can get interesting.
At sea level, you have 14.7 psi available to replace the fuel consumed by
the engine, but at 18,000 it is less than half of that. Throw in the vapor
pressure of the fuel and getting fuel to the pump can be a big deal. Many
high altitude airplanes have the electric boost pump built in the tank.
Some have small boost pumps in the tank that run all the time to feed the
engine driven or primary electric boost pumps.
Many turbine airplanes have jet (or venturi) pumps that are powered by the
return fuel that feeds fuel to the engine driven fuel pump much like a two
pipe well pump system on a farm.
In the B-25 the fuel pressure will start to jump around above 10,000 feet in
the summertime. We have a low setting on the electric pumps that we use to
smooth it out.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
J.T. Helms at Nationair - 877-475-5860 for the past 3 years. Saw about a
25% savings over Avemco.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,570 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: insurance
Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2004 22:52:29 -0400
> J.T. Helms has insured my last 3 birds.
>
> Nationair - 877-475-5860
I switched to Nationair this year. I was insured through another agent and
got a substantial savings by making the switch.
Jim Sears in KY
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: Fitting Completed Fuel Tank |
| From: | "" <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com> |
Thanks for the suggestion Matt. I dug into it more, and I found that it still
had too much proseal on the root end. I had to scrape it down to the rivet height.
As an FYI for those yet to proseal the baffle...I would recommend you use it sparingly
on the inboard end. I wouldn't dab any on the shop heads of the inboard
ten or so...it will just cause interference with the thickest portion of the
spar doubler.
Scott
7A Wings
--- On Tue 08/10, Matthew Brandes < matthew(at)n523rv.com > wrote:
From: Matthew Brandes [mailto: matthew(at)n523rv.com]
Cc: tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com
Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2004 15:33:08 -0500
Subject: RE: Fitting Completed Fuel Tank
Scott,
I'm sure you've
checked but make sure the tank isn't hanging up an any of the spar rivets.
Some of the spar rivets fall REAL close to the tank baffle. You may have
to stick an inspection mirror in somewhere to peek.
I assume the inboard
z-bracket isn't sitting all the way down on the spar flange and that whatever is
hanging up is preventing this?
Matthew
Brandes,
Van's RV-9A (Fuselage)
EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
www.n523rv.com
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: TruTrak Servo Hardware |
Trutrak has a list of required hardware. For some reason they do not
send it with the kit but I asked for and received the list.
In any case, they specify AN3 bolts with drilled heads, which can then
be safety wired, for mounting the servo to the brackets.
Dick Tasker
Steve&Anita Nyman wrote:
>
>I'm installing the roll servo in the right wing of my 7 and was curious what others
used for hardware to mount the servo to the bracket that replaces the lower
bellcrank bracket. The attach holes in the servo are threaded for an AN3
bolt or an AN509-10 screw. I was thinking one of those with a lock washer and
Loctite, or maybe a long enough screw to go all the way through the servo housing
and put a lock nut on it.
>
>Thanks
>Steve
>7QB
>MEM
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com |
Sorry to bring this up....I did look around the archives.
Has anyone made an upgrade?
Built the plane then made the switch from Fixed pitch to constant speed?
That would be a great way to compare.
I have a RV-4 with a Hartsell. It has plenty of wow on takeoff. I find that
at 500 feet agl I pull the power back and set the prop to the rpm I want.
Set it and forget it. The -6 I trained in had a fixed pitch and it had
enough wow at take off. Am I missing something here? With 190 hp
0-360 I figure I should have all the wow that is needed and cruise should
not be an issue on a -8. Anyone have any views or thoughts??
I am trying to decide if I want to spend the extra $$ for a new hartsell
for my -8. I promissed myself I would not cut corners but an Extra
$4500 for the first 500 feet AGL seems a bit much.
TIA
RV-4
RV-8 tail
Sal Capra
Lakeland, FL
My Home Page
http://hometown.aol.com/cbrxxdrv/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com |
Has anyone made an upgrade?
Built the plane then made the switch from Fixed pitch to constant speed?
That would be a great way to compare.
I have a RV-4 with a Hartsell. It has plenty of wow on takeoff. I find that
at 500 feet agl I pull the power back and set the prop to the rpm I want.
Set it and forget it. The -6 I trained in had a fixed pitch and it had
enough wow at take off. Am I missing something here? With 190 hp
0-360 I figure I should have all the wow that is needed and cruise should
not be an issue on a -8. Anyone have any views or thoughts??
I am trying to decide if I want to spend the extra $$ for a new hartsell
for my -8. I promissed myself I would not cut corners but an Extra
$4500 for the first 500 feet AGL seems a bit much.
TIA
RV-4
RV-8 tail
Sal Capra
Lakeland, FL
My Home Page
http://hometown.aol.com/cbrxxdrv/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Psiropoulos" <deanpsir(at)easystreet.com> |
I have a few rudder installation issues on my RV-6A. First there is the aft
fuselage skin overlap, I left it fairly long and made some smooth cutouts
where the rudder bottom leading edge would touch it when the rudder is
deflected. From other RVs I've seen most people cut it straight down pretty
close to the aft bulkhead leaving quite a gap there. Any reason for this or
is everyone just cutting it close as a painless exercise?
Also, on the RV-6A there is the tie down bracket mounted on the aft bulkhead
right in front of the fiberglass rudder bottom leading edge. With the rudder
adjusted out from the vertical stab as specified on Van's plans and the tie
down bracket ground down close to the weld, the rudder bottom won't allow
the rudder to inserted far enough in to get the hinge bolts in. What's the
fix for this? Is everyone just adjusting the hiem bearings out from the
rudder to increase the gap? Or are you cutting the leading edge off the
bottom fairing and making it shorter? Or something else?
One last thing, I will be installing a combination aft position light strobe
light in the rudder bottom. I need a hole for the fat strobe wire and a
smaller hole for small power and ground wires to the light. Where is the
best place to put these holes, above the bottom hinge bracket, below the
bottom hinge bracket, some other place? Should I use one large hole or a
large hole and a small hole? I need to make a slot in the rudder bottom to
allow for rudder deflection I assume?! Any suggestions? Thanks for
entertaining this anal slow builder.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
TMX-360 waiting for install
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel Servo problem |
Cy, your recollection of my accident is incorrect. In fact, my boost pump
was OFF on landing precisely because of symptoms similar to those Andre
described. The engine ran fine until I pulled the power on base. Airflow
Performance recommends the boost be ON for takeoff and landing as does
Lycoming for their Bendix injected engines. I turned it off because my
mixture went over-rich when I turned the boost on for approach. I still
don't have a definitive cause of the engine failure but my working theory is
that the boost being off was a contributing event in a chain leading to
vapor lock.
Andre, your symptoms sound like what I experienced in flight and I implore
you not to fly until you resolve the problem. Have you tried leaning it when
the boost is on? That would confirm an over-rich condition like I
experienced. I can't offer any suggestions other than to resolve it on the
ground. I would be very interested in anything you find, it may answer some
questions for me. Even if you have a Bendix system, the AFP was based on the
Bendix design so any findings would probably apply.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY - project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
>
>
> Don't turn on the pump. We lost a plane that turned the pump
> on during the first flight, killed the engine and could not
> restart because it was flooded. Ask Greg Young. Pump is a
> standby for when the engine pump fails.
>
> Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair Safety Programs
> Editor - TC EAA Sport Pilot
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Berthet, Andre G" <andre.g.berthet(at)intel.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Fuel Servo problem
>
>
>
> >
> > I have an IO-360-A1A and have a strange problem. When the
> engine is hot,
> > turning the booster pump ON will results in a substantial
> drop of RPM.
> > Let say if I set my engine speed to 1300 RPM and then turn
> the booster
> > ON, the engine speed will decrease by about 500 RPM. Of
> course if I do
> > that at a normal idling of 700 RPM, the engine just quit.
> My servo has
> > been overhauled in January, re-inspected in June and I'm
> sending it back
> > again. The flow divider and the fuel nozzles have been
> overhauled last
> > June too. Also the idling speed is changing depending if
> the engine is
> > hot or cold. My mixture is adjusted for a 25 RPM rise at ICO.
> >
> > My engine driven pump alone produces 23 PSI of fuel
> pressure, and when
> > the booster pump is turned ON it increases the pressure to 28 PSI.
> >
> > Could anyone have suggestions how to fix this problem?
> >
> > Andre
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Todd Bartrim" <haywire(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Matco Parking brake Lock-up? |
Hi All;
I have the Matco parking brake sold by Van's on my RV-9a and have a real
problem with it that I can't find in the archives. When I use it for parking
I apply full brake pressure then close the parking valve and it holds very
well. However when I open the valve to release the brakes, it almost always
leaves me with at least one locked brake and sometimes both. I have ensured
that the valve is in the open position, but the only way to get the brake to
release is to remove the wheel pant and crack the bleed valve. 2 drops of
fluid is enough to bleed and it will free the brake completely and brake
operation will be normal. I had this problem right from first use last year,
but I really haven't needed it at all in the months since so I'd forgotten
about it, but lately I've had occasion to use it a few times and I must say
it is very annoying to pull the wheel pant to fix it... especially the last
time as I was foolishly only equipped with a Leatherman!
Anybody else experience this? Any suggestions?
Todd Bartrim
RV9Endurance
13B Turbo Rotary
C-FSTB
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
"The world will always have a place for those that bring hard
work and determination to the things they do."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Matco Parking brake Lock-up? |
Todd Bartrim wrote:
>
>Hi All;
> I have the Matco parking brake sold by Van's on my RV-9a and have a real
>problem with it that I can't find in the archives. When I use it for parking
>I apply full brake pressure then close the parking valve and it holds very
>well. However when I open the valve to release the brakes, it almost always
>leaves me with at least one locked brake and sometimes both. I have ensured
>that the valve is in the open position, but the only way to get the brake to
>release is to remove the wheel pant and crack the bleed valve. 2 drops of
>fluid is enough to bleed and it will free the brake completely and brake
>operation will be normal. I had this problem right from first use last year,
>but I really haven't needed it at all in the months since so I'd forgotten
>about it, but lately I've had occasion to use it a few times and I must say
>it is very annoying to pull the wheel pant to fix it... especially the last
>time as I was foolishly only equipped with a Leatherman!
> Anybody else experience this? Any suggestions?
>
I haven't a clue as to how the valve is plumbed in your bird, so this is
a real SWAG! The next time it locks up, try and pull the brake pedal
back. The valve in the brake cylinder may be closed off preventing
fluid from flowing back through the cylinder.
Best of luck, Linn
>
>Todd Bartrim
>
>RV9Endurance
>13B Turbo Rotary
>C-FSTB
>http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
>
> "The world will always have a place for those that bring hard
>work and determination to the things they do."
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Todd Bartrim" <haywire(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Matco Parking brake Lock-up? |
I haven't a clue as to how the valve is plumbed in your bird, so this is
a real SWAG!
Pretty much the same as everybody else.
The next time it locks up, try and pull the brake pedal
back. The valve in the brake cylinder may be closed off preventing
fluid from flowing back through the cylinder.
Best of luck, Linn
Tried that... no luck
Todd Bartrim
RV9Endurance
13B Turbo Rotary
C-FSTB
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
"The world will always have a place for those that bring hard
work and determination to the things they do."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Matco Parking brake Lock-up? |
Have a couple of friends that were flying to Alaska in a 125 hour old Maule
this summer. Used the parking brake. Took off OK but one brake was still
locked on landing. Wiped out the gear, one wing, 3 bladed prop. Fortunately
the $45,000 repair is covered by insurance as they are now looking at more
things.
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Todd Bartrim" <haywire(at)telus.net>
Subject: RV-List: Matco Parking brake Lock-up?
>
> Hi All;
> I have the Matco parking brake sold by Van's on my RV-9a and have a
real
> problem with it that I can't find in the archives. When I use it for
parking
> I apply full brake pressure then close the parking valve and it holds very
> well. However when I open the valve to release the brakes, it almost
always
> leaves me with at least one locked brake and sometimes both. I have
ensured
> that the valve is in the open position, but the only way to get the brake
to
> release is to remove the wheel pant and crack the bleed valve. 2 drops of
> fluid is enough to bleed and it will free the brake completely and brake
> operation will be normal. I had this problem right from first use last
year,
> but I really haven't needed it at all in the months since so I'd forgotten
> about it, but lately I've had occasion to use it a few times and I must
say
> it is very annoying to pull the wheel pant to fix it... especially the
last
> time as I was foolishly only equipped with a Leatherman!
> Anybody else experience this? Any suggestions?
>
> Todd Bartrim
>
> RV9Endurance
> 13B Turbo Rotary
> C-FSTB
> http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
>
> "The world will always have a place for those that bring hard
> work and determination to the things they do."
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Servo problem |
I believe these are your words..
> For 30 minutes I had a glorious flight and was the happiest man in the
air.
> Returning to Hooks, when I turned on the boost pump the engine went rough.
> After trying various combinations of boost on/off and leaning I thought
the
> engine was running smooth and planned for a high speed approach
Am I wrong?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gregory Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel Servo problem
>
> Cy, your recollection of my accident is incorrect. In fact, my boost pump
> was OFF on landing precisely because of symptoms similar to those Andre
> described. The engine ran fine until I pulled the power on base. Airflow
> Performance recommends the boost be ON for takeoff and landing as does
> Lycoming for their Bendix injected engines. I turned it off because my
> mixture went over-rich when I turned the boost on for approach. I still
> don't have a definitive cause of the engine failure but my working theory
is
> that the boost being off was a contributing event in a chain leading to
> vapor lock.
>
> Andre, your symptoms sound like what I experienced in flight and I implore
> you not to fly until you resolve the problem. Have you tried leaning it
when
> the boost is on? That would confirm an over-rich condition like I
> experienced. I can't offer any suggestions other than to resolve it on the
> ground. I would be very interested in anything you find, it may answer
some
> questions for me. Even if you have a Bendix system, the AFP was based on
the
> Bendix design so any findings would probably apply.
>
> Regards,
> Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
> RV-6 N6GY - project Phoenix
> Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
>
>
> >
> >
> > Don't turn on the pump. We lost a plane that turned the pump
> > on during the first flight, killed the engine and could not
> > restart because it was flooded. Ask Greg Young. Pump is a
> > standby for when the engine pump fails.
> >
> > Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair Safety Programs
> > Editor - TC EAA Sport Pilot
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Berthet, Andre G" <andre.g.berthet(at)intel.com>
> > To:
> > Subject: RV-List: Fuel Servo problem
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > > I have an IO-360-A1A and have a strange problem. When the
> > engine is hot,
> > > turning the booster pump ON will results in a substantial
> > drop of RPM.
> > > Let say if I set my engine speed to 1300 RPM and then turn
> > the booster
> > > ON, the engine speed will decrease by about 500 RPM. Of
> > course if I do
> > > that at a normal idling of 700 RPM, the engine just quit.
> > My servo has
> > > been overhauled in January, re-inspected in June and I'm
> > sending it back
> > > again. The flow divider and the fuel nozzles have been
> > overhauled last
> > > June too. Also the idling speed is changing depending if
> > the engine is
> > > hot or cold. My mixture is adjusted for a 25 RPM rise at ICO.
> > >
> > > My engine driven pump alone produces 23 PSI of fuel
> > pressure, and when
> > > the booster pump is turned ON it increases the pressure to 28 PSI.
> > >
> > > Could anyone have suggestions how to fix this problem?
> > >
> > > Andre
> > >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Shemp" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
Nationair
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck Weyant" <cweyant(at)chuckdirect.com>
Subject: RV-List: insurance
>
> Who you guys using for insurance? Best quote I can get is $1,700 a year.
> Chuck
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Shemp" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: TruTrak Servo Hardware |
That's a good idea. I ended up using a little loctite per my conversation
with the factory rep but should have done what you did. Dont need anything
coming loose back there!!!!
shemp
----- Original Message -----
From: <N67BT(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: TruTrak Servo Hardware
>
>
> On my Altrak servo (same as the roll servo) I drilled out the threads and
> put AN bolts clear through with washers and lock nuts. This will also
safety
> the small socket head screws nearby. I plan to do the same with the roll
> servo.
>
> Bob Trumpfheller
>
>
> In a message dated 8/10/2004 5:50:24 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
> nyman(at)bellsouth.net writes:
>
> I'm installing the roll servo in the right wing of my 7 and was curious
what
> others used for hardware to mount the servo to the bracket that replaces
the
> lower bellcrank bracket. The attach holes in the servo are threaded for
an
> AN3 bolt or an AN509-10 screw. I was thinking one of those with a lock
> washer and Loctite, or maybe a long enough screw to go all the way
through the
> servo housing and put a lock nut on it.
>
> Thanks
> Steve
> 7QB
> MEM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: CS vs FP props |
I had a wood FP on my first RV-4 and I wanted a C/S for the following
reasons.
1. Rain, I needed a metal prop of some sort for IFR.
2. Acro, with a metal FP, rpm overspeed is really critical and I did not
want to live in fear of the propeller coming apart.
3. Formation, The C/S has both, better power response, and better braking
for formation flying.
4. T/O climb performance. The C/S wins big here, much longer vertical
lines.
5.Lower cruise RPM, The C/S allows me to cruise at a much lower rpm which
is quieter and saves fuel. At 12,000 ft, 2300 and 2400 rpm yields the same
speed and 2500 rpm is slower, but the fuel flow changes dramatically with
decreasing rpms. 2100 rpms up high and I can get some amazing miles per
gallon numbers.
6. Weight, The only time weight is a good thing in an airplane, but I
wanted to be able to put a fat guy in the back seat of my -4. My wood prop
airplane was pretty spooky with a heavy guy in back.
That was the thought process I used, and I am really happy. I would hate to
go back to a F/P of any sort. Your results may differ......
Tailwinds
Doug Rozendaal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Servo problem |
Hi All-
What great timing- another forum I sat in on at OSH was about the RSA
injection systems and was put on by Precision (Bendix). They stated point
blank that the RSA fuel servo has its own regulator built in and that pump
output pressure has no effect on fuel flow, as long as the servo inlet
pressure is within the specified limits. Therefore, if the application in
question has a Bendix / Precision RSA injector and engine stumbles / fails
when the boost pump is activated, it would seem that either the pump output
is way too high or there is a problem with the injection system, most
likely the fuel pressure regulator. I'd sure get it checked...
Glen
From: "Shemp" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Servo problem
I have a Bendix injector and when I turn on the b.p., the engine rpm drops
for a half second, then comes back up to normal. I see a surge on my fuel
pressure gauge but then it returns to normal. I dont feel any change at
above idle settings.
Shemp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Shemp" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Servo problem |
Speaking of Bendix injectors, I was speaking with one of the factory reps at
Oshkosh concerning the cd they gave me for maintaing the RSA fuel injection
system. One of the topics on the cd is what to do if you get run on during
shut down. The cd says this is due to a servo problem. I just had my
servo and distributor rebuilt 100 hours ago. It only runs on when the
engine and oat are hot. Im having a hard time accepting the fact that the
servo isnt working properly. Has anyone else had this situation?
Thanks
Shemp (Jeff Dowling)
RV-6a/ 100 hours
Chicago/ Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gregory Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel Servo problem
>
> Cy, your recollection of my accident is incorrect. In fact, my boost pump
> was OFF on landing precisely because of symptoms similar to those Andre
> described. The engine ran fine until I pulled the power on base. Airflow
> Performance recommends the boost be ON for takeoff and landing as does
> Lycoming for their Bendix injected engines. I turned it off because my
> mixture went over-rich when I turned the boost on for approach. I still
> don't have a definitive cause of the engine failure but my working theory
is
> that the boost being off was a contributing event in a chain leading to
> vapor lock.
>
> Andre, your symptoms sound like what I experienced in flight and I implore
> you not to fly until you resolve the problem. Have you tried leaning it
when
> the boost is on? That would confirm an over-rich condition like I
> experienced. I can't offer any suggestions other than to resolve it on the
> ground. I would be very interested in anything you find, it may answer
some
> questions for me. Even if you have a Bendix system, the AFP was based on
the
> Bendix design so any findings would probably apply.
>
> Regards,
> Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
> RV-6 N6GY - project Phoenix
> Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
>
>
> >
> >
> > Don't turn on the pump. We lost a plane that turned the pump
> > on during the first flight, killed the engine and could not
> > restart because it was flooded. Ask Greg Young. Pump is a
> > standby for when the engine pump fails.
> >
> > Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair Safety Programs
> > Editor - TC EAA Sport Pilot
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Berthet, Andre G" <andre.g.berthet(at)intel.com>
> > To:
> > Subject: RV-List: Fuel Servo problem
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > > I have an IO-360-A1A and have a strange problem. When the
> > engine is hot,
> > > turning the booster pump ON will results in a substantial
> > drop of RPM.
> > > Let say if I set my engine speed to 1300 RPM and then turn
> > the booster
> > > ON, the engine speed will decrease by about 500 RPM. Of
> > course if I do
> > > that at a normal idling of 700 RPM, the engine just quit.
> > My servo has
> > > been overhauled in January, re-inspected in June and I'm
> > sending it back
> > > again. The flow divider and the fuel nozzles have been
> > overhauled last
> > > June too. Also the idling speed is changing depending if
> > the engine is
> > > hot or cold. My mixture is adjusted for a 25 RPM rise at ICO.
> > >
> > > My engine driven pump alone produces 23 PSI of fuel
> > pressure, and when
> > > the booster pump is turned ON it increases the pressure to 28 PSI.
> > >
> > > Could anyone have suggestions how to fix this problem?
> > >
> > > Andre
> > >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rivet search AN470AD3-3.5 |
| From: | sjhdcl(at)kingston.net |
Anybody know where to find AN470AD3-3.5.
I've tried B&B Aircraft Supply (they carry several 1/2 size rivets) but no
luck.
Steve
RV7A #2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | facet electric fuel (boost) pump ? malfunction |
Question for you fellows:
Last weekend, my Facet didn't sound right on start-up (carbureted O-320 with electric
solenoid primer) and the engine behaved as if it had received no primer
shot, though I gave it the usual "4-count" on the primer button. The usual loud
clacking of the fuel boost pump was not present; instead there was a muted
clicking... a few light taps on the body of the pump with a mallet restored the
familiar noise, along with a rise in fuel pressure from 1 to 2 psig (normal
reading is 4 or 5 psig). The engine then started normally and fuel pressure
was 4 psi with or without the boost pump (normal readings, BTW). The round trip
flight to Cleveland was completed without incident, and the pump sounded and
behaved normally on this and a subsequent flight (to Dean Meylor's beautiful
home airstrip, 9NC9).
I'm wondering if I should be concerned by this recent "hiccup" in pump operation...
is it the beginning of the end for my electric pump? Could it foreshadow
a dangerous fuel line stoppage condition?
Just curious how "pre-emptive" I need to be in this situation.
-Bill B / "Stormy"
RV-6A - 410 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rivet search AN470AD3-3.5 |
You dont have the rivet cut tool in your tool kit? It basically shears off
the unwanted length.
>
>Anybody know where to find AN470AD3-3.5.
>
>I've tried B&B Aircraft Supply (they carry several 1/2 size rivets) but no
>luck.
>
>Steve
>RV7A #2
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | RV6-A Plenum Question |
List,
For the builders who have installed a plenum to cool their engines have
you needed to install Van's upper cowl cooling ramps?
I can't see why they would be of any value with the Plenum Conversion and
might just be in the way?
Thanks for any help, Tom in Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Bibb" <rebibb(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet search AN470AD3-3.5 |
They are a standard size in the RV-4 kit so I know Van's has them....
----- Original Message -----
From: <sjhdcl(at)kingston.net>
Subject: RV-List: Rivet search AN470AD3-3.5
>
> Anybody know where to find AN470AD3-3.5.
>
> I've tried B&B Aircraft Supply (they carry several 1/2 size rivets) but no
> luck.
>
> Steve
> RV7A #2
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Monty Barrett" <bpa(at)bpaengines.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Servo problem |
The usual cause of " Run on " or after firing is a small leakage past the
idle valve when in idle cutoff. The smallest grain of grit will scar the 2
Plates that rotate to close off an orfice when in ICO and this will allow
enough fuel to after fire.
I suggest:
1. check your mixture cable rigging to make sure you are at ICO
2. make sure the boost pump is OFF at shutdown.
3. If after firing is a nuisance to you, after the mixture is in
ICO,
open the throttle and it should quit. Make sure the brakes work
stick full back if you open the throttle.
4. Normal procedure at servo overhaul is to lap the 2 plates so that
they are perfectly smooth with no scratches.
I saw a thread about boost pump on changing the speed momentarily. I would
consider this to be normal.
Monty Barrett
Barrett Performance Aircraft, Inc.
FAA-CRS XBTR929K
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Shemp
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Servo problem
Speaking of Bendix injectors, I was speaking with one of the factory reps at
Oshkosh concerning the cd they gave me for maintaing the RSA fuel injection
system. One of the topics on the cd is what to do if you get run on during
shut down. The cd says this is due to a servo problem. I just had my
servo and distributor rebuilt 100 hours ago. It only runs on when the
engine and oat are hot. Im having a hard time accepting the fact that the
servo isnt working properly. Has anyone else had this situation?
Thanks
Shemp (Jeff Dowling)
RV-6a/ 100 hours
Chicago/ Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gregory Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel Servo problem
>
> Cy, your recollection of my accident is incorrect. In fact, my boost pump
> was OFF on landing precisely because of symptoms similar to those Andre
> described. The engine ran fine until I pulled the power on base. Airflow
> Performance recommends the boost be ON for takeoff and landing as does
> Lycoming for their Bendix injected engines. I turned it off because my
> mixture went over-rich when I turned the boost on for approach. I still
> don't have a definitive cause of the engine failure but my working theory
is
> that the boost being off was a contributing event in a chain leading to
> vapor lock.
>
> Andre, your symptoms sound like what I experienced in flight and I implore
> you not to fly until you resolve the problem. Have you tried leaning it
when
> the boost is on? That would confirm an over-rich condition like I
> experienced. I can't offer any suggestions other than to resolve it on the
> ground. I would be very interested in anything you find, it may answer
some
> questions for me. Even if you have a Bendix system, the AFP was based on
the
> Bendix design so any findings would probably apply.
>
> Regards,
> Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
> RV-6 N6GY - project Phoenix
> Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
>
>
> >
> >
> > Don't turn on the pump. We lost a plane that turned the pump
> > on during the first flight, killed the engine and could not
> > restart because it was flooded. Ask Greg Young. Pump is a
> > standby for when the engine pump fails.
> >
> > Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair Safety Programs
> > Editor - TC EAA Sport Pilot
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Berthet, Andre G" <andre.g.berthet(at)intel.com>
> > To:
> > Subject: RV-List: Fuel Servo problem
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > > I have an IO-360-A1A and have a strange problem. When the
> > engine is hot,
> > > turning the booster pump ON will results in a substantial
> > drop of RPM.
> > > Let say if I set my engine speed to 1300 RPM and then turn
> > the booster
> > > ON, the engine speed will decrease by about 500 RPM. Of
> > course if I do
> > > that at a normal idling of 700 RPM, the engine just quit.
> > My servo has
> > > been overhauled in January, re-inspected in June and I'm
> > sending it back
> > > again. The flow divider and the fuel nozzles have been
> > overhauled last
> > > June too. Also the idling speed is changing depending if
> > the engine is
> > > hot or cold. My mixture is adjusted for a 25 RPM rise at ICO.
> > >
> > > My engine driven pump alone produces 23 PSI of fuel
> > pressure, and when
> > > the booster pump is turned ON it increases the pressure to 28 PSI.
> > >
> > > Could anyone have suggestions how to fix this problem?
> > >
> > > Andre
> > >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Matco Parking brake Lock-up? |
Todd:
I also equipped my 6 with the same valve, thinking it would stop calf
cramps in my three teenage daughters holding the brakes during runups.
My valve behaves just like yours, which is annoying. I suspect that two
things are at play here, and there is a way to get it to release without
the need to shutdown or egress.
I think that either the internal design of the valve, or the mechanical
advantage of the valve lever, or even the rigidity of the Bowden cable that
actuates the lever, can't overcome the pressure trapped in the lines once
the parking brakes are set.
With this in mind, the way to reduce the load on the valve is to apply and
hold pressure with the toe brakes, then move the valve to the off position.
It takes a few tries to get it to work, usually only one wheel releases
first, before it will roll with only idle power.
My daughter says that it works best if the pressure applied to the toe
brakes is the same and the pressure originally applied, and trapped in, the
brakes lines by the valve being closed.
This makes sense, in effect balancing the pressure on both sides of the
valve, making it easier to move internally.
I did find it so annoying-from the outside, it appears that one is so
stupid they're attempting to taxi with the brakes on and can't figure out
why it won't go anywhere-that I don't use it anymore, but the girls find it
worth the hassle.
I've started to wonder what to do if the valve should accidentally get
closed in flight, though.....
Scott in Vancouver
----- Original Message -----
From: "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Matco Parking brake Lock-up?
>
> Have a couple of friends that were flying to Alaska in a 125 hour old
Maule
> this summer. Used the parking brake. Took off OK but one brake was still
> locked on landing. Wiped out the gear, one wing, 3 bladed prop.
Fortunately
> the $45,000 repair is covered by insurance as they are now looking at more
> things.
>
> Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
> Safety Programs Editor - TC
> EAA Sport Pilot
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Todd Bartrim" <haywire(at)telus.net>
> To: "RV List (E-mail)"
> Subject: RV-List: Matco Parking brake Lock-up?
>
>
> >
> > Hi All;
> > I have the Matco parking brake sold by Van's on my RV-9a and have a
> real
> > problem with it that I can't find in the archives. When I use it for
> parking
> > I apply full brake pressure then close the parking valve and it holds
very
> > well. However when I open the valve to release the brakes, it almost
> always
> > leaves me with at least one locked brake and sometimes both. I have
> ensured
> > that the valve is in the open position, but the only way to get the
brake
> to
> > release is to remove the wheel pant and crack the bleed valve. 2 drops
of
> > fluid is enough to bleed and it will free the brake completely and brake
> > operation will be normal. I had this problem right from first use last
> year,
> > but I really haven't needed it at all in the months since so I'd
forgotten
> > about it, but lately I've had occasion to use it a few times and I must
> say
> > it is very annoying to pull the wheel pant to fix it... especially the
> last
> > time as I was foolishly only equipped with a Leatherman!
> > Anybody else experience this? Any suggestions?
> >
> > Todd Bartrim
> >
> > RV9Endurance
> > 13B Turbo Rotary
> > C-FSTB
> > http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
> >
> > "The world will always have a place for those that bring
hard
> > work and determination to the things they do."
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve&Anita Nyman" <nyman(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: TruTrak Servo Hardware |
TruTrak does indeed have a hardware list for there installation. Paul at
TruTrak emailed it to me this morning. Most of it I have, but will have to
order replacements.
Thanks
Steve
7QB
MEM
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel Servo problem |
Those are my words but your inference that the boost stayed on is incorrect.
I wrote that two days after the accident and although I've recounted it
numerous time in the last 3 years, I guess back then I wasn't specific in
the configuration. I fell back to what had been working flawlessly
for the 30 minutes prior, i.e. full rich and boost OFF. That followed the
theory that if the last action you took made things worse, then undo it.
Greg
>
> I believe these are your words..
> > For 30 minutes I had a glorious flight and was the happiest
> man in the
> air.
> > Returning to Hooks, when I turned on the boost pump the
> engine went rough.
> > After trying various combinations of boost on/off and leaning I
> > thought
> the
> > engine was running smooth and planned for a high speed approach
>
> Am I wrong?
>
> >
> > Cy, your recollection of my accident is incorrect. In fact,
> my boost pump
> > was OFF on landing precisely because of symptoms similar to
> those Andre
> > described. The engine ran fine until I pulled the power on
> base. Airflow
> > Performance recommends the boost be ON for takeoff and
> landing as does
> > Lycoming for their Bendix injected engines. I turned it off
> because my
> > mixture went over-rich when I turned the boost on for
> approach. I still
> > don't have a definitive cause of the engine failure but my
> working theory
> is
> > that the boost being off was a contributing event in a
> chain leading to
> > vapor lock.
> >
> > Andre, your symptoms sound like what I experienced in
> flight and I implore
> > you not to fly until you resolve the problem. Have you
> tried leaning it
> when
> > the boost is on? That would confirm an over-rich condition like I
> > experienced. I can't offer any suggestions other than to
> resolve it on the
> > ground. I would be very interested in anything you find, it
> may answer
> some
> > questions for me. Even if you have a Bendix system, the AFP
> was based on
> the
> > Bendix design so any findings would probably apply.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
> > RV-6 N6GY - project Phoenix
> > Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
> >
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > Don't turn on the pump. We lost a plane that turned the pump
> > > on during the first flight, killed the engine and could not
> > > restart because it was flooded. Ask Greg Young. Pump is a
> > > standby for when the engine pump fails.
> > >
> > > Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair Safety Programs
> > > Editor - TC EAA Sport Pilot
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Berthet, Andre G" <andre.g.berthet(at)intel.com>
> > > To:
> > > Subject: RV-List: Fuel Servo problem
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > I have an IO-360-A1A and have a strange problem. When the
> > > engine is hot,
> > > > turning the booster pump ON will results in a substantial
> > > drop of RPM.
> > > > Let say if I set my engine speed to 1300 RPM and then turn
> > > the booster
> > > > ON, the engine speed will decrease by about 500 RPM. Of
> > > course if I do
> > > > that at a normal idling of 700 RPM, the engine just quit.
> > > My servo has
> > > > been overhauled in January, re-inspected in June and I'm
> > > sending it back
> > > > again. The flow divider and the fuel nozzles have been
> > > overhauled last
> > > > June too. Also the idling speed is changing depending if
> > > the engine is
> > > > hot or cold. My mixture is adjusted for a 25 RPM rise at ICO.
> > > >
> > > > My engine driven pump alone produces 23 PSI of fuel
> > > pressure, and when
> > > > the booster pump is turned ON it increases the pressure
> to 28 PSI.
> > > >
> > > > Could anyone have suggestions how to fix this problem?
> > > >
> > > > Andre
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Servo problem |
My two cents:
somewhere in the archives should be a previous post describing how larger
aircraft overcome fuel "boiling", caused by warm fuel lifted quickly to a
high altitude before it has time to cool. The result is bubbles in the fuel
line, minimized by having a pump at the supply source, in the tank.
Large airliners sometimes have a gravity-feeding max altitude table, to use
in case of massive electrical problems that depower the tank pumps. The
table is divided into two depending on how long the aircraft has been at
altitude, if not for very long, an immediate descent into the mid-teens is
necessary.
Scott in Vancouver----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Servo problem
>
>
>
> >
> > Dan, why the pump when switching tanks?
> >
>
>
> Alex,
>
> Many low wing aircraft flight manuals call for boost pumps on while
> switching tanks. This is especially important in higher altitude
airplanes.
> Between the vapor pressure of the fuel and the low ambient air pressure,
> switching tanks can get interesting.
>
> At sea level, you have 14.7 psi available to replace the fuel consumed by
> the engine, but at 18,000 it is less than half of that. Throw in the
vapor
> pressure of the fuel and getting fuel to the pump can be a big deal. Many
> high altitude airplanes have the electric boost pump built in the tank.
> Some have small boost pumps in the tank that run all the time to feed the
> engine driven or primary electric boost pumps.
>
> Many turbine airplanes have jet (or venturi) pumps that are powered by the
> return fuel that feeds fuel to the engine driven fuel pump much like a two
> pipe well pump system on a farm.
>
> In the B-25 the fuel pressure will start to jump around above 10,000 feet
in
> the summertime. We have a low setting on the electric pumps that we use
to
> smooth it out.
>
> Tailwinds,
> Doug Rozendaal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <rv6flyer(at)improvementteam.com> |
| Subject: | Re: facet electric fuel (boost) pump ? malfunction |
Stormy,
If you had to tap the pump to get it going, You are not getting a rise in
pressure with it running over the engine pump, and not seeing your normal
pressure on the guage... Then you need to address this NOW!
My feeling is that you are now test flying your airplane as it is not in the
same condition as previously tested and flown.
Don't rule out a problem with the engine pump or the wiring but sounds like
a boost pump problem
Just my .02 worth.
Tim Bryan
RV-6 N616TB
-------Original Message-------
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Date: 08/11/04 07:38:27
Subject: RV-List: facet electric fuel (boost) pump ? malfunction
Question for you fellows:
Last weekend, my Facet didn't sound right on start-up (carbureted O-320 with
electric solenoid primer) and the engine behaved as if it had received no
primer shot, though I gave it the usual "4-count" on the primer button. The
usual loud clacking of the fuel boost pump was not present; instead there
was a muted clicking... a few light taps on the body of the pump with a
mallet restored the familiar noise, along with a rise in fuel pressure from
1 to 2 psig (normal reading is 4 or 5 psig). The engine then started
normally and fuel pressure was 4 psi with or without the boost pump (normal
readings, BTW). The round trip flight to Cleveland was completed without
incident, and the pump sounded and behaved normally on this and a subsequent
flight (to Dean Meylor's beautiful home airstrip, 9NC9).
I'm wondering if I should be concerned by this recent "hiccup" in pump
operation... is it the beginning of the end for my electric pump? Could it
foreshadow a dangerous fuel line stoppage condition?
Just curious how "pre-emptive" I need to be in this situation.
-Bill B / "Stormy"
RV-6A - 410 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | RV6-A Plenum Question |
-----Original Message-----
From: Tom & Cathy Ervin
List,
For the builders who have installed a plenum to cool their
engines have you needed to install Van's upper cowl cooling ramps?
I can't see why they would be of any value with the Plenum
Conversion and might just be in the way?
Thanks for any help, Tom in Ohio
Tom,
This depends on your plenum. I built my own. All I did was cover the
baffles with a custom cut/bent piece of aluminum sheet that is held in
place with hinge pins and a few screws in front. I am using the
standard air intake ducts. I made my plenum to fit the standard cowl
and baffle setup.
Ross Mickey
RV6A
N9PT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Birkelbach <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet search AN470AD3-3.5 |
Here is a link to Wicks. They are listed as MS20470 instead of AN470
but they should be the same thing.
http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_cat.php/subid=2182/index.html
Just curious, where you are using such a small universal head rivet in
your RV-7A? There were a few times when I wanted to just use a small UH
rivet but it always seemed easier to just go ahead and dimple the thing
than to worry about ordering and waiting.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Panel
http://www.myrv7.com
sjhdcl(at)kingston.net wrote:
>
>Anybody know where to find AN470AD3-3.5.
>
>I've tried B&B Aircraft Supply (they carry several 1/2 size rivets) but no
>luck.
>
>Steve
>RV7A #2
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Matco Parking brake Lock-up? |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott(at)telus.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Matco Parking brake Lock-up?
> Todd:
> I also equipped my 6 with the same valve, thinking it would stop calf
> cramps in my three teenage daughters holding the brakes during runups.
> My valve behaves just like yours, which is annoying. I suspect that two
> things are at play here, and there is a way to get it to release without
> the need to shutdown or egress.
> I think that either the internal design of the valve, or the mechanical
> advantage of the valve lever, or even the rigidity of the Bowden cable
that
> actuates the lever, can't overcome the pressure trapped in the lines once
> the parking brakes are set.
> With this in mind, the way to reduce the load on the valve is to apply
and
> hold pressure with the toe brakes, then move the valve to the off
position.
> It takes a few tries to get it to work, usually only one wheel releases
> first, before it will roll with only idle power.
> My daughter says that it works best if the pressure applied to the toe
> brakes is the same and the pressure originally applied, and trapped in,
the
> brakes lines by the valve being closed.
> This makes sense, in effect balancing the pressure on both sides of the
> valve, making it easier to move internally.
> I did find it so annoying-from the outside, it appears that one is so
> stupid they're attempting to taxi with the brakes on and can't figure out
> why it won't go anywhere-that I don't use it anymore, but the girls find
it
> worth the hassle.
> I've started to wonder what to do if the valve should accidentally get
> closed in flight, though.....
>
> Scott in Vancouver
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, August 11, 2004 5:26 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Matco Parking brake Lock-up?
>
>
> >
> > Have a couple of friends that were flying to Alaska in a 125 hour old
> Maule
> > this summer. Used the parking brake. Took off OK but one brake was
still
> > locked on landing. Wiped out the gear, one wing, 3 bladed prop.
> Fortunately
> > the $45,000 repair is covered by insurance as they are now looking at
more
> > things.
> >
> > Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
> > Safety Programs Editor - TC
> > EAA Sport Pilot
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Todd Bartrim" <haywire(at)telus.net>
> > To: "RV List (E-mail)"
> > Subject: RV-List: Matco Parking brake Lock-up?
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Hi All;
> > > I have the Matco parking brake sold by Van's on my RV-9a and have
a
> > real
> > > problem with it that I can't find in the archives. When I use it for
> > parking
> > > I apply full brake pressure then close the parking valve and it holds
> very
> > > well. However when I open the valve to release the brakes, it almost
> > always
> > > leaves me with at least one locked brake and sometimes both. I have
> > ensured
> > > that the valve is in the open position, but the only way to get the
> brake
> > to
> > > release is to remove the wheel pant and crack the bleed valve. 2 drops
> of
> > > fluid is enough to bleed and it will free the brake completely and
brake
> > > operation will be normal. I had this problem right from first use last
> > year,
> > > but I really haven't needed it at all in the months since so I'd
> forgotten
> > > about it, but lately I've had occasion to use it a few times and I
must
> > say
> > > it is very annoying to pull the wheel pant to fix it... especially the
> > last
> > > time as I was foolishly only equipped with a Leatherman!
> > > Anybody else experience this? Any suggestions?
> > >
> > > Todd Bartrim
> > >
> > > RV9Endurance
> > > 13B Turbo Rotary
> > > C-FSTB
> > > http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
> > >
> > > "The world will always have a place for those that bring
> hard
> > > work and determination to the things they do."
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: facet electric fuel (boost) pump ? malfunction |
SportAV8R(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Question for you fellows:
>
> Last weekend, my Facet didn't sound right on start-up (carbureted
> O-320 with electric solenoid primer) and the engine behaved as if it
> had received no primer shot, though I gave it the usual "4-count" on
> the primer button. The usual loud clacking of the fuel boost pump
> was not present; instead there was a muted clicking... a few light
> taps on the body of the pump with a mallet restored the familiar
> noise, along with a rise in fuel pressure from 1 to 2 psig (normal
> reading is 4 or 5 psig). The engine then started normally and fuel
> pressure was 4 psi with or without the boost pump (normal readings,
> BTW). The round trip flight to Cleveland was completed without
> incident, and the pump sounded and behaved normally on this and a
> subsequent flight (to Dean Meylor's beautiful home airstrip, 9NC9).
>
> I'm wondering if I should be concerned by this recent "hiccup" in
> pump operation... is it the beginning of the end for my electric
> pump? Could it foreshadow a dangerous fuel line stoppage condition?
>
> Just curious how "pre-emptive" I need to be in this situation.
>
> -Bill B / "Stormy" RV-6A - 410 hrs
Less than $40.00 will put this question to bed:
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1092238105-152-264&browse=engines&product=pump-carb
Just replace the pump instead of worrying about it. :-)
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-A Plenum Question |
My plenum top is just a large sheet of .032. At the front, it has ears of
baffle sealing material at the vertical sides, and about a six-inch-wide
"finger" of .032 extending forward across the top of the cowl inlets, which
spring up against the inlet ramps, protected against chafing with UHMW tape
left over from the flaps.
SCott in VAncouver
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV6-A Plenum Question
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tom & Cathy Ervin
>
> List,
> For the builders who have installed a plenum to cool their
> engines have you needed to install Van's upper cowl cooling ramps?
> I can't see why they would be of any value with the Plenum
> Conversion and might just be in the way?
>
> Thanks for any help, Tom in Ohio
>
> Tom,
>
> This depends on your plenum. I built my own. All I did was cover the
> baffles with a custom cut/bent piece of aluminum sheet that is held in
> place with hinge pins and a few screws in front. I am using the
> standard air intake ducts. I made my plenum to fit the standard cowl
> and baffle setup.
>
> Ross Mickey
> RV6A
> N9PT
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <rv6flyer(at)improvementteam.com> |
| Subject: | Re: CS vs FP props |
Great post Doug,
I am not flying mine yet but another plus I thought of was descent speed. I
had a C-170 with 0360 Lyc and constant speed equipped. With the constant
speed prop I could just trim down and keep my speeds up for the last miles
of the trip. With the FP I had to begin to slow down also to keep from over
RPM. It kind of made up for the slower climb out speeds to get it back at
the other end.
Not sure if this is a factor in the RV but I would think so.
Tim Bryan RV-6
0-360 and CS prop
Will fly this year
-------Original Message-------
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Date: 08/11/04 07:16:48
Subject: Re: RV-List: CS vs FP props
I had a wood FP on my first RV-4 and I wanted a C/S for the following
reasons.
1. Rain, I needed a metal prop of some sort for IFR.
2. Acro, with a metal FP, rpm overspeed is really critical and I did not
want to live in fear of the propeller coming apart.
3. Formation, The C/S has both, better power response, and better braking
for formation flying.
4. T/O climb performance. The C/S wins big here, much longer vertical
lines.
5.Lower cruise RPM, The C/S allows me to cruise at a much lower rpm which
is quieter and saves fuel. At 12,000 ft, 2300 and 2400 rpm yields the same
speed and 2500 rpm is slower, but the fuel flow changes dramatically with
decreasing rpms. 2100 rpms up high and I can get some amazing miles per
gallon numbers.
6. Weight, The only time weight is a good thing in an airplane, but I
wanted to be able to put a fat guy in the back seat of my -4. My wood prop
airplane was pretty spooky with a heavy guy in back.
That was the thought process I used, and I am really happy. I would hate to
go back to a F/P of any sort. Your results may differ......
Tailwinds
Doug Rozendaal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-A Plenum Question |
On my plenum, I designed the inlets to follow the approximate shape of
the cooling ramps. No need to glass the ramps into the cowl, and they
would be in the way if installed.
Pics at : http://home.mindspring.com/~rv6/rv6plenumpics/
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Servo problem |
The inference that the boost stayed on is incorrect. My source which I
consulted claims that the "over boost" creates turbulence and cavitation in
the engine pump. It takes a little time for everything to come back to
normal. But the chain of events was started by the over boost even though
you removed it, the cavitation (air bubble) stopped the engine.
At least that is what my Mechanic with over 40 years of experience said. He
also said that this was a well known phenomenon.
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel Servo problem
>
> Those are my words but your inference that the boost stayed on is
incorrect.
> I wrote that two days after the accident and although I've recounted it
> numerous time in the last 3 years, I guess back then I wasn't specific in
> the configuration. I fell back to what had been working flawlessly
> for the 30 minutes prior, i.e. full rich and boost OFF. That followed the
> theory that if the last action you took made things worse, then undo it.
>
> Greg
>
> >
> > I believe these are your words..
> > > For 30 minutes I had a glorious flight and was the happiest
> > man in the
> > air.
> > > Returning to Hooks, when I turned on the boost pump the
> > engine went rough.
> > > After trying various combinations of boost on/off and leaning I
> > > thought
> > the
> > > engine was running smooth and planned for a high speed approach
> >
> > Am I wrong?
> >
> > >
> > > Cy, your recollection of my accident is incorrect. In fact,
> > my boost pump
> > > was OFF on landing precisely because of symptoms similar to
> > those Andre
> > > described. The engine ran fine until I pulled the power on
> > base. Airflow
> > > Performance recommends the boost be ON for takeoff and
> > landing as does
> > > Lycoming for their Bendix injected engines. I turned it off
> > because my
> > > mixture went over-rich when I turned the boost on for
> > approach. I still
> > > don't have a definitive cause of the engine failure but my
> > working theory
> > is
> > > that the boost being off was a contributing event in a
> > chain leading to
> > > vapor lock.
> > >
> > > Andre, your symptoms sound like what I experienced in
> > flight and I implore
> > > you not to fly until you resolve the problem. Have you
> > tried leaning it
> > when
> > > the boost is on? That would confirm an over-rich condition like I
> > > experienced. I can't offer any suggestions other than to
> > resolve it on the
> > > ground. I would be very interested in anything you find, it
> > may answer
> > some
> > > questions for me. Even if you have a Bendix system, the AFP
> > was based on
> > the
> > > Bendix design so any findings would probably apply.
> > >
> > > Regards,
> > > Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
> > > RV-6 N6GY - project Phoenix
> > > Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Don't turn on the pump. We lost a plane that turned the pump
> > > > on during the first flight, killed the engine and could not
> > > > restart because it was flooded. Ask Greg Young. Pump is a
> > > > standby for when the engine pump fails.
> > > >
> > > > Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair Safety Programs
> > > > Editor - TC EAA Sport Pilot
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: "Berthet, Andre G" <andre.g.berthet(at)intel.com>
> > > > To:
> > > > Subject: RV-List: Fuel Servo problem
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > I have an IO-360-A1A and have a strange problem. When the
> > > > engine is hot,
> > > > > turning the booster pump ON will results in a substantial
> > > > drop of RPM.
> > > > > Let say if I set my engine speed to 1300 RPM and then turn
> > > > the booster
> > > > > ON, the engine speed will decrease by about 500 RPM. Of
> > > > course if I do
> > > > > that at a normal idling of 700 RPM, the engine just quit.
> > > > My servo has
> > > > > been overhauled in January, re-inspected in June and I'm
> > > > sending it back
> > > > > again. The flow divider and the fuel nozzles have been
> > > > overhauled last
> > > > > June too. Also the idling speed is changing depending if
> > > > the engine is
> > > > > hot or cold. My mixture is adjusted for a 25 RPM rise at ICO.
> > > > >
> > > > > My engine driven pump alone produces 23 PSI of fuel
> > > > pressure, and when
> > > > > the booster pump is turned ON it increases the pressure
> > to 28 PSI.
> > > > >
> > > > > Could anyone have suggestions how to fix this problem?
> > > > >
> > > > > Andre
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Neal E Capt AU/PC <Neal.George(at)maxwell.af.mil> |
| Subject: | facet electric fuel (boost) pump ? malfunction |
Dernit, Sam, if he just replaces the pump we won't get to argue about it for
the next few weeks.
73... neal
>Less than $40.00 will put this question to bed:
>Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles E. Brame" <charleyb(at)earthlink.net> |
Dean Psiropoulos
Dean,
Here are my solutions.
I trimmed the aft fuselage skin so that it just clears the rudder at
full deflection. The resulting trailing edge of the fuselage skin is not
a straight line, but it doesn't detract from the appearance at all. I
figured as much fairing as I could get was the best idea. Seems to work okay.
I gave up on Van's standard 6A tie down bracket. I ordered a -7A tie
down bracket, which is an extruded fixture which mounts on the forward
side of the aft bulkhead. The tie down ring screws into the fixture
similar to the wing tie down rings. I intend for the aft tie down ring
to be permanently installed as it also acts as a skid bar to protect the
rudder bottom in the -6A.
I too, have the nav light/strobe package in the rudder bottom. I ran the
fat wire and the nav light wires laced together up the inside of the
rudder to above the hinge. I made an adel clamp to hold the wires clear
of the hinge. I cut a 5/8" tall, three inch wide slot in the forward
edge of the rudder for the wires to exit the rudder and to allow for
wire movement with rudder deflection. The slot is about three inches
above the hinge. I made a single 1/2" hole in the centerline of the aft
bulkhead/vertical fin spar to match up with the slot. I used staggerd
handshake connectors for all the wires which will connect just inside of
the aft bulkhead - that will allow for easy rudder removal if necessary
and the stagger makes the wires easier to fit though the hole.
I'll try to take a picture of my set up and send it to you off line.
Charlie
RV-6A N11CB
San Antonio
------------------------------------
> From: "Dean Psiropoulos" <deanpsir(at)easystreet.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Rudder issues.
>
>
> I have a few rudder installation issues on my RV-6A. First there is the aft
> fuselage skin overlap, I left it fairly long and made some smooth cutouts
> where the rudder bottom leading edge would touch it when the rudder is
> deflected. From other RVs I've seen most people cut it straight down pretty
> close to the aft bulkhead leaving quite a gap there. Any reason for this or
> is everyone just cutting it close as a painless exercise?
>
>
> Also, on the RV-6A there is the tie down bracket mounted on the aft bulkhead
> right in front of the fiberglass rudder bottom leading edge. With the rudder
> adjusted out from the vertical stab as specified on Van's plans and the tie
> down bracket ground down close to the weld, the rudder bottom won't allow
> the rudder to inserted far enough in to get the hinge bolts in. What's the
> fix for this? Is everyone just adjusting the hiem bearings out from the
> rudder to increase the gap? Or are you cutting the leading edge off the
> bottom fairing and making it shorter? Or something else?
>
>
> One last thing, I will be installing a combination aft position light strobe
> light in the rudder bottom. I need a hole for the fat strobe wire and a
> smaller hole for small power and ground wires to the light. Where is the
> best place to put these holes, above the bottom hinge bracket, below the
> bottom hinge bracket, some other place? Should I use one large hole or a
> large hole and a small hole? I need to make a slot in the rudder bottom to
> allow for rudder deflection I assume?! Any suggestions? Thanks for
> entertaining this anal slow builder.
>
>
> Dean Psiropoulos
>
> RV-6A N197DM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "czechsix(at)juno.com" <czechsix(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Re: CS vs FP props |
Sal,
I recently got a new Hartzell for my -8A, not flying quite yet. I've flown with
several friends in RV's of various types, some with FP and some with CS props.
The CS props are definitely a bigger kick in the pants for takeoff and climb
as you've already noted. The FP are sure nice for their low cost and simplicity
(and lighter weight when compared to Hartzell), but there are some more
operational limitations other than just takeoff. If you're always going to cruise
at the same altitude and power setting, get a FP setup for this one condition
and you'll be happy. If you want the flexibility of optimizing cruise at
different altitudes and power settings, go with CS. The typical pitch setting
on a Sensenich for an RV will overspeed the engine at lower altitudes and higher
power settings. So you have to reduce power, and even then you may end up
running 26-2700 rpm when you'd prefer to reduce noise and increase efficiency
by pulling the prop back to 2400. Also if you do a
cro I'm sure you're aware of the CS advantages (more power on the upside, braking
on the downside, etc).
FWIW....this is all a repeat of what's been rehashed in the archives over and over...
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D painting...
From: CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: CS vs FP props
Has anyone made an upgrade?
Built the plane then made the switch from Fixed pitch to constant speed?
That would be a great way to compare.
I have a RV-4 with a Hartsell. It has plenty of wow on takeoff. I find that
at 500 feet agl I pull the power back and set the prop to the rpm I want.
Set it and forget it. The -6 I trained in had a fixed pitch and it had
enough wow at take off. Am I missing something here? With 190 hp
0-360 I figure I should have all the wow that is needed and cruise should
not be an issue on a -8. Anyone have any views or thoughts??
I am trying to decide if I want to spend the extra $$ for a new hartsell
for my -8. I promissed myself I would not cut corners but an Extra
$4500 for the first 500 feet AGL seems a bit much.
TIA
RV-4
RV-8 tail
Sal Capra
Lakeland, FL
My Home Page
http://hometown.aol.com/cbrxxdrv/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "czechsix(at)juno.com" <czechsix(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Boost Pump Location RV-6 |
There's also a bazillion Piper Cherokee-series (Warriors and Archers and etc) out
there with the round "beer can" Facet pump happily thumping away on the engine
side of the firewall...
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D with "beer can" pump in my wingroot...(as well as a gascolator, but that's
another discussion, in itself :-)
From: Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Boost Pump Location RV-6
> Wherever you put the Boost pump, it should be on the " cold side " of the
> firewall, NOT in the engine compartment. Boost pumps do not survive the
> high temps present in the engine bay. They are much happier and live
longer
> If kept away from the heat as much as practical.
I beg to differ. I had a round Facet boost pump on my '77 Cheetah that did
quite well on the engine side of the firewall. With that, I put the same
kind on my -6A on the engine side of the firewall. Works like a charm.
Maybe the little square ones that Van's sells don't last in the heat; but, I
didn't care too much for those, anyway.
I personally don't care for having the boost pump in the cabin with me.
Because I put mine on the engine side, it was easy to T off that for the
primer valve, as well.
Oh, yeah. I don't have a gascolator, either. That's another discussion, in
itself. :-)
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
RV-7A #70317 (Finishing the tail)
EAA Technical Counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: facet electric fuel (boost) pump ? malfunction |
> Last weekend, my Facet didn't sound right on start-up (carbureted O-320
with electric solenoid primer) and the engine behaved as if it had received
no primer shot, though I gave it the usual "4-count" on the primer button.
The usual loud clacking of the fuel boost pump was not present; instead
there was a muted clicking... a few light taps on the body of the pump with
a mallet restored the familiar noise, along with a rise in fuel pressure
from 1 to 2 psig (normal reading is 4 or 5 psig). The engine then started
normally and fuel pressure was 4 psi with or without the boost pump (normal
readings, BTW). The round trip flight to Cleveland was completed without
incident, and the pump sounded and behaved normally on this and a subsequent
flight (to Dean Meylor's beautiful home airstrip, 9NC9).
>
> I'm wondering if I should be concerned by this recent "hiccup" in pump
operation... is it the beginning of the end for my electric pump? Could it
foreshadow a dangerous fuel line stoppage condition?
>
> Just curious how "pre-emptive" I need to be in this situation.
>
> -Bill B / "Stormy"
> RV-6A - 410 hrs
Bill, those pumps are only $36 from Van's. Personally, I'd replace it at the
next opportunity as a preventative measure.
Randy Lervold
www.rv-3.com
www.rv-8.com
EAA Technical Counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Trainnut01(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder issues |
Charlie
Any chance I could get a copy of that picture also.
Carroll Jernigan
7A Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)excelgeo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: facet electric fuel (boost) pump ? malfunction |
Wait just one dag-burn minute. He's gotta replace the pump and polish
the spinner. Then we won't know what fixed it. The pump or the spinner?
George Neal E Capt AU/PC wrote:
>
> Dernit, Sam, if he just replaces the pump we won't get to argue about it for
> the next few weeks.
>
> 73... neal
>
>
>>Less than $40.00 will put this question to bed:
>>Sam Buchanan
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neil McLeod" <bedrock(at)theriver.com> |
| Subject: | Matco Parking brake Lock-up? |
Three teenage daughters!!!??? As the parent of one teenage and one 3 year
old daughter I commend you on the ability to keep your medical, I think I
would have too much stress induced hypertension if I had 3 teens. Way to go
Dad!
Neil McLeod
7QB FWF and Finishing
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jaye and Scott
Jackson
Subject: Re: RV-List: Matco Parking brake Lock-up?
Todd:
I also equipped my 6 with the same valve, thinking it would stop calf
cramps in my three teenage daughters holding the brakes during runups.
My valve behaves just like yours, which is annoying. I suspect that two
things are at play here, and there is a way to get it to release without
the need to shutdown or egress.
I think that either the internal design of the valve, or the mechanical
advantage of the valve lever, or even the rigidity of the Bowden cable that
actuates the lever, can't overcome the pressure trapped in the lines once
the parking brakes are set.
With this in mind, the way to reduce the load on the valve is to apply and
hold pressure with the toe brakes, then move the valve to the off position.
It takes a few tries to get it to work, usually only one wheel releases
first, before it will roll with only idle power.
My daughter says that it works best if the pressure applied to the toe
brakes is the same and the pressure originally applied, and trapped in, the
brakes lines by the valve being closed.
This makes sense, in effect balancing the pressure on both sides of the
valve, making it easier to move internally.
I did find it so annoying-from the outside, it appears that one is so
stupid they're attempting to taxi with the brakes on and can't figure out
why it won't go anywhere-that I don't use it anymore, but the girls find it
worth the hassle.
I've started to wonder what to do if the valve should accidentally get
closed in flight, though.....
Scott in Vancouver
----- Original Message -----
From: "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Matco Parking brake Lock-up?
>
> Have a couple of friends that were flying to Alaska in a 125 hour old
Maule
> this summer. Used the parking brake. Took off OK but one brake was still
> locked on landing. Wiped out the gear, one wing, 3 bladed prop.
Fortunately
> the $45,000 repair is covered by insurance as they are now looking at more
> things.
>
> Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
> Safety Programs Editor - TC
> EAA Sport Pilot
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Todd Bartrim" <haywire(at)telus.net>
> To: "RV List (E-mail)"
> Subject: RV-List: Matco Parking brake Lock-up?
>
>
> >
> > Hi All;
> > I have the Matco parking brake sold by Van's on my RV-9a and have a
> real
> > problem with it that I can't find in the archives. When I use it for
> parking
> > I apply full brake pressure then close the parking valve and it holds
very
> > well. However when I open the valve to release the brakes, it almost
> always
> > leaves me with at least one locked brake and sometimes both. I have
> ensured
> > that the valve is in the open position, but the only way to get the
brake
> to
> > release is to remove the wheel pant and crack the bleed valve. 2 drops
of
> > fluid is enough to bleed and it will free the brake completely and brake
> > operation will be normal. I had this problem right from first use last
> year,
> > but I really haven't needed it at all in the months since so I'd
forgotten
> > about it, but lately I've had occasion to use it a few times and I must
> say
> > it is very annoying to pull the wheel pant to fix it... especially the
> last
> > time as I was foolishly only equipped with a Leatherman!
> > Anybody else experience this? Any suggestions?
> >
> > Todd Bartrim
> >
> > RV9Endurance
> > 13B Turbo Rotary
> > C-FSTB
> > http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
> >
> > "The world will always have a place for those that bring
hard
> > work and determination to the things they do."
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Reassembly at the airport |
Hi,
Still several months away, but where I live we have to
plan quite a bit in advance. I'm trying to get an
idea of how long it will take to reassemble my RV8
after transporting it to an airport. I plan to
have the plane 100% assembled and ready to fly
in the workshop before taking it apart to
transport it.
Many thanks for any words of wisdom and experience!
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Talking about LED position lights and Strobes... |
You guys gotta check this one out:
http://www.silence-aircraft.de/index-e.html
go to "construction" and then on to "Strobe lights".
There is even a short video of the strobe/position lights in action.
THAT is what they should be like IMHO!
AD.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: CS vs FP props |
That is a factor, but it is easily compensated for by starting decent
earlier. It would be a long ways down on my list of reasons for C/S
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
>
> Great post Doug,
>
> I am not flying mine yet but another plus I thought of was descent speed.
I
> had a C-170 with 0360 Lyc and constant speed equipped. With the constant
> speed prop I could just trim down and keep my speeds up for the last miles
> of the trip. With the FP I had to begin to slow down also to keep from
over
> RPM. It kind of made up for the slower climb out speeds to get it back at
> the other end.
>
> Not sure if this is a factor in the RV but I would think so.
>
> Tim Bryan RV-6
> 0-360 and CS prop
> Will fly this year
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: facet electric fuel (boost) pump ? malfunction |
Less than $40.00 will put this question to bed:
>>Sam Buchanan
>
Where's the fun in that? You guys don't live very close to the edge, do you? ;-)
Okay, okay, I'll pay Van $40 for the pump + 19.95 S&H + small-order fee and we'll
never know what the real story was. Are you happy now?
Actually, the advice is so sensible I'm embarassed I asked the question. At 40
bucks, it really is a throw-away part (like my nosewheel tire tubes and all those
wheel bearings over the years; don't question why they fail, just replace
them every few hours and be glad they're relatively cheap)- but I was hoping
to save some small change in the kitty for all those electro-whizzies from Perihelion
Design... shucks.
-Stormy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Mortimore <terry.mortimore(at)shaw.ca> problems. |
| Subject: | Re: Can someone bring me up to speed - RV-6A nose wheel |
problems.
Hi gang, thanks for the replies.
Looks like I'll go for the 6A version, I'm more comfortable with that idea. I'll
order the newer nose gear for peace of mind.
tailwinds, terry.
Terry Mortimore,
426 McNabb Street Apt #4,
Sault Ste Marie, Ontario
Canada P6B-1Z3
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Mortimore <terry.mortimore(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Labeling wiring |
Hopperdhh(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>I found that I could write by hand on white heat shrink tubing before putting
>it on the wire. Use a Sharpie Twin-tip pen (they come in colors, too). When
>the heat shrink shrinks, so does the writing. Easy, cheap and works real
>well.
>
>Dan Hopper
>RV-7A (About 35 hours now)
>
>
>
Hi Dan:
Another variation on the theme is to make labels on paper in small font. Roll it
around the wire and use clear heat shrink tubing. Makes for a nice job.
tailwinds, terry.
Terry Mortimore,
426 McNabb Street Apt #4,
Sault Ste Marie, Ontario
Canada P6B-1Z3
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Matco Parking brake Lock-up? |
It's actually worse than that!
I have four teenagers, it's just that one isn't interested...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Neil McLeod" <bedrock(at)theriver.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Matco Parking brake Lock-up?
>
> Three teenage daughters!!!??? As the parent of one teenage and one 3 year
> old daughter I commend you on the ability to keep your medical, I think I
> would have too much stress induced hypertension if I had 3 teens. Way to
go
> Dad!
>
> Neil McLeod
> 7QB FWF and Finishing
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jaye and Scott
> Jackson
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Matco Parking brake Lock-up?
>
>
>
> Todd:
> I also equipped my 6 with the same valve, thinking it would stop calf
> cramps in my three teenage daughters holding the brakes during runups.
> My valve behaves just like yours, which is annoying. I suspect that two
> things are at play here, and there is a way to get it to release without
> the need to shutdown or egress.
> I think that either the internal design of the valve, or the mechanical
> advantage of the valve lever, or even the rigidity of the Bowden cable
that
> actuates the lever, can't overcome the pressure trapped in the lines once
> the parking brakes are set.
> With this in mind, the way to reduce the load on the valve is to apply
and
> hold pressure with the toe brakes, then move the valve to the off
position.
> It takes a few tries to get it to work, usually only one wheel releases
> first, before it will roll with only idle power.
> My daughter says that it works best if the pressure applied to the toe
> brakes is the same and the pressure originally applied, and trapped in,
the
> brakes lines by the valve being closed.
> This makes sense, in effect balancing the pressure on both sides of the
> valve, making it easier to move internally.
> I did find it so annoying-from the outside, it appears that one is so
> stupid they're attempting to taxi with the brakes on and can't figure out
> why it won't go anywhere-that I don't use it anymore, but the girls find
it
> worth the hassle.
> I've started to wonder what to do if the valve should accidentally get
> closed in flight, though.....
>
> Scott in Vancouver
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Matco Parking brake Lock-up?
>
>
> >
> > Have a couple of friends that were flying to Alaska in a 125 hour old
> Maule
> > this summer. Used the parking brake. Took off OK but one brake was
still
> > locked on landing. Wiped out the gear, one wing, 3 bladed prop.
> Fortunately
> > the $45,000 repair is covered by insurance as they are now looking at
more
> > things.
> >
> > Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
> > Safety Programs Editor - TC
> > EAA Sport Pilot
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Todd Bartrim" <haywire(at)telus.net>
> > To: "RV List (E-mail)"
> > Subject: RV-List: Matco Parking brake Lock-up?
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Hi All;
> > > I have the Matco parking brake sold by Van's on my RV-9a and have
a
> > real
> > > problem with it that I can't find in the archives. When I use it for
> > parking
> > > I apply full brake pressure then close the parking valve and it holds
> very
> > > well. However when I open the valve to release the brakes, it almost
> > always
> > > leaves me with at least one locked brake and sometimes both. I have
> > ensured
> > > that the valve is in the open position, but the only way to get the
> brake
> > to
> > > release is to remove the wheel pant and crack the bleed valve. 2 drops
> of
> > > fluid is enough to bleed and it will free the brake completely and
brake
> > > operation will be normal. I had this problem right from first use last
> > year,
> > > but I really haven't needed it at all in the months since so I'd
> forgotten
> > > about it, but lately I've had occasion to use it a few times and I
must
> > say
> > > it is very annoying to pull the wheel pant to fix it... especially the
> > last
> > > time as I was foolishly only equipped with a Leatherman!
> > > Anybody else experience this? Any suggestions?
> > >
> > > Todd Bartrim
> > >
> > > RV9Endurance
> > > 13B Turbo Rotary
> > > C-FSTB
> > > http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
> > >
> > > "The world will always have a place for those that bring
> hard
> > > work and determination to the things they do."
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-A Plenum Question |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
Subject: RV-List: RV6-A Plenum Question
>
> List,
> For the builders who have installed a plenum to cool their
engines have you needed to install Van's upper cowl cooling ramps?
> I can't see why they would be of any value with the Plenum
Conversion and might just be in the way?
>
Thanks for any help, Tom in Ohio
>
You can throw the upper cowl cooling ramps away. You will need something
however to guide the incoming air into/within your plenum.
> Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
The sincerest satisfactions in life come in doing and not dodging duty; in
meeting and solving problems, in facing facts, in being a dependable person.
- Richard L. Evans
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Reassembly at the airport |
Well, Micky its hard to say. I took my RV-6A out to the airport Sept 23
1997 planning to have it flying by Thanksgiving as it was 100% complete
{:>). I actually did fly it before Thanksgiving - of 1998 that is. So many
things that you think are completed you find are not. But, perhaps you will
be much closer to that 100% point than I.
Good Luck
Ed
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: RV-List: Reassembly at the airport
>
> Hi,
>
> Still several months away, but where I live we have to
> plan quite a bit in advance. I'm trying to get an
> idea of how long it will take to reassemble my RV8
> after transporting it to an airport. I plan to
> have the plane 100% assembled and ready to fly
> in the workshop before taking it apart to
> transport it.
>
> Many thanks for any words of wisdom and experience!
>
> Mickey
>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Reassembly at the airport |
Mickey,
The answer to your question is It depends. If you can borrow a spare set of
hands (or two) when you need 'em, don't have any cold weather issues to deal
with, and are able to spend several hours a day on the airplane, you might
get the job done in a week or two depending on how much disassembly you did
prior to transportation.
In my case, I had a few minor items to complete once I got to the airfield.
They would have taken 5-10 hours in my shop. It probably took a couple of
weeks once I got to the airport. Part of the delay was due to "wrong tools
at the airport". For instance, I didn't expect to need the close tolerance
90 degree angle drill, so that meant a trip home to get it.
Another delay I suffered was due to cold and dark weather. I put the
airplane together at the airport beginning at the start of November, and
made my first flight on March 1. There were quite a few evenings where I
had to quit work after a half hour or so, simply because it was too cold to
continue working, despite various space heaters I was running. I don't
believe I was ever able to work more than a couple of hours on any evening,
again because of the cold.
Finally, there are un-knowables, like when you have to troubleshoot
something. In my case, I spent a couple of evenings troubleshooting an
intermittant starter problem. Turned out that the fuse on the starter
switch was getting intermittant contact in the fuse holder. Also, my carb
float had failed, which was another week waiting on getting a new carb float
installed.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: RV-List: Reassembly at the airport
>
> Hi,
>
> Still several months away, but where I live we have to
> plan quite a bit in advance. I'm trying to get an
> idea of how long it will take to reassemble my RV8
> after transporting it to an airport. I plan to
> have the plane 100% assembled and ready to fly
> in the workshop before taking it apart to
> transport it.
>
> Many thanks for any words of wisdom and experience!
>
> Mickey
>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Reassembly at the airport |
Also dont forget the airport factor, it takes twice as long to get half as
much done as it did at home, in the garage.
>
>Well, Micky its hard to say. I took my RV-6A out to the airport Sept 23
>1997 planning to have it flying by Thanksgiving as it was 100% complete
>{:>). I actually did fly it before Thanksgiving - of 1998 that is. So many
>things that you think are completed you find are not. But, perhaps you will
>be much closer to that 100% point than I.
>
>Good Luck
>
>Ed
>
>Ed Anderson
>RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
>Matthews, NC
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Reassembly at the airport
>
>
> >
> > Hi,
> >
> > Still several months away, but where I live we have to
> > plan quite a bit in advance. I'm trying to get an
> > idea of how long it will take to reassemble my RV8
> > after transporting it to an airport. I plan to
> > have the plane 100% assembled and ready to fly
> > in the workshop before taking it apart to
> > transport it.
> >
> > Many thanks for any words of wisdom and experience!
> >
> > Mickey
> >
> > --
> > Mickey Coggins
> > http://www.rv8.ch/
> > #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
> >
> >
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Boost Pump Location RV-6 |
| From: | Scott.Fink(at)microchip.com |
08/11/2004 03:11:10 PM,
Serialize complete at 08/11/2004 03:11:10 PM
...Isolated from the rest of the engine compartment in a box with the
gascolator, and with a blast tube from the back of the baffling.
Scott
"czechsix(at)juno.com" | From: | "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Servo problem |
Cy, I find it incredulous that you can diagnose my engine failure and
present the cause as fact when you've never seen the aircraft, have no idea
of the conditions of the flight, the sequence or timing of events and no
knowledge of the system configuration of the aircraft. And further, to do it
based on the speculation of a third party, who has even less specific
knowledge, just blows me away. I'd dearly love to definitively know the
cause but this is the first I've heard of this "well known phenomenon." If
this occurred every time a boost pump was cycled, airplanes would be falling
out of the sky. I'm an engineer. Show me some data on how, when and under
what conditions this phenomenon occurs, even anecdotal evidence, and I'll
throw it in the mix of possible causes to consider. But for you to state it
as THE cause, at this point, is BS.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
>
>
> The inference that the boost stayed on is incorrect. My
> source which I consulted claims that the "over boost"
> creates turbulence and cavitation in the engine pump. It
> takes a little time for everything to come back to normal.
> But the chain of events was started by the over boost even
> though you removed it, the cavitation (air bubble) stopped the engine.
>
> At least that is what my Mechanic with over 40 years of
> experience said. He also said that this was a well known phenomenon.
>
> Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair Safety Programs
> Editor - TC EAA Sport Pilot
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel Servo problem
>
>
> >
> > Those are my words but your inference that the boost stayed on is
> incorrect.
> > I wrote that two days after the accident and although I've
> recounted it
> > numerous time in the last 3 years, I guess back then I
> wasn't specific in
> > the configuration. I fell back to what had been
> working flawlessly
> > for the 30 minutes prior, i.e. full rich and boost OFF.
> That followed the
> > theory that if the last action you took made things worse,
> then undo it.
> >
> > Greg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Schaefer" <dschaefer1(at)kc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Starter Interruption |
I've wired my RV6 straight down the lines of Aeroelectric's Z-14 with the
exception that I don't use both busses to start the aircraft ( but I do have
a cross connect if I loose a single side). That said, I have two Grand
Rapids displays each with two separate power wires each wired to the two
different busses so that they will operate if I turn off either buss. Why
does the alternate buss 'die' when I start the aircraft, killing the
display? I can understand the primary bus kicking off during start .. but
why the alternate? I've got to go through the 'reboot' sequence again each
time I hit the starter!
Thanks...
David Schaefer
Finishing RV6-A
August 03, 2004 - August 11, 2004
RV-Archive.digest.vol-pp