RV-Archive.digest.vol-pq
August 11, 2004 - August 19, 2004
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Bibb" <rebibb(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Starter Interruption |
hard to say exactly why but your alternate bus voltage has to be getting
pulled down below the minimal level for the Great Plains when you hit that
starter. If the volatege gets below some level the Great Plains is going to
reboot. I don't have to diagram in front of me to figure out why the
isolation isn't working.
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Schaefer" <dschaefer1(at)kc.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: Starter Interruption
>
> I've wired my RV6 straight down the lines of Aeroelectric's Z-14 with the
> exception that I don't use both busses to start the aircraft ( but I do
have
> a cross connect if I loose a single side). That said, I have two Grand
> Rapids displays each with two separate power wires each wired to the two
> different busses so that they will operate if I turn off either buss. Why
> does the alternate buss 'die' when I start the aircraft, killing the
> display? I can understand the primary bus kicking off during start .. but
> why the alternate? I've got to go through the 'reboot' sequence again
each
> time I hit the starter!
>
>
> Thanks...
>
>
> David Schaefer
>
> Finishing RV6-A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
| Subject: | Starter Interruption |
David,
I am planning the same system you describe and am in the process of wiring
per Z-14. Since I am not working yet all I say below is SPECULATION and
"thinking out loud".
Is is fair to assume that you have you "left" PWR1 supplied by the "left"
contactor and the "right" PWR1 supplied by the "right" contactor with a
crisscross on for the PWR2?
If so ...
No offense in the question, but is the "alternate" contactor turned on? The
GRT boxes are supposed to sense voltage on the multiple sources and switch
to the higher (spent some time with Greg talking about this and "backups"
last year).
I noticed on my friend's RV that the voltage at cranking can get quite low
for a little while and cause certain electronic ignitions and certain engine
monitors to "lose it" temporarily. There was lots of discussion on the
Aeroelectric list about how thing **should** perform.
But back to the GRT units, my thinking was that if there were THREE power
inputs on the system, you ALWAYS have power to the dual units from the dual
power busses *and potentially* from an optional "9V" battery in case both
batteries and both alternators fell out of the airplane! :-)
OK, I know this is a bit over the top so no cries of overkill, please. :-)
Just a little humor for us belt and suspenders types.
Now in your case, I would think that the second battery should be sitting
there happily supplying PLENTY of juice to keep the displays happy. I was
thinking that if I could crank on one battery, I would be guaranteed to have
good clean power for the electronics during cranking.
How is the AHRS/ADC powered?
Have you tried cranking with the crossfeed switch thrown???
Just some thoughts and if you are way past this, I apologize.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of David Schaefer
> Sent: Wednesday, August 11, 2004 6:48 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Starter Interruption
>
>
> I've wired my RV6 straight down the lines of Aeroelectric's Z-14 with the
> exception that I don't use both busses to start the aircraft (
> but I do have
> a cross connect if I loose a single side). That said, I have two Grand
> Rapids displays each with two separate power wires each wired to the two
> different busses so that they will operate if I turn off either buss. Why
> does the alternate buss 'die' when I start the aircraft, killing the
> display? I can understand the primary bus kicking off during start .. but
> why the alternate? I've got to go through the 'reboot' sequence
> again each
> time I hit the starter!
>
>
> Thanks...
>
>
> David Schaefer
>
> Finishing RV6-A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Servo problem |
>
>
>
> >
> > Dan, why the pump when switching tanks?
> >
>
>
> Alex,
>
> Many low wing aircraft flight manuals call for boost pumps on
> while switching tanks. This is especially important in
> higher altitude airplanes. Between the vapor pressure of the
> fuel and the low ambient air pressure, switching tanks can
> get interesting.
>
> At sea level, you have 14.7 psi available to replace the fuel
> consumed by the engine, but at 18,000 it is less than half of
> that. Throw in the vapor pressure of the fuel and getting
> fuel to the pump can be a big deal. Many high altitude
> airplanes have the electric boost pump built in the tank.
> Some have small boost pumps in the tank that run all the time
> to feed the engine driven or primary electric boost pumps.
>
> Many turbine airplanes have jet (or venturi) pumps that are
> powered by the return fuel that feeds fuel to the engine
> driven fuel pump much like a two pipe well pump system on a farm.
>
> In the B-25 the fuel pressure will start to jump around above
> 10,000 feet in the summertime. We have a low setting on the
> electric pumps that we use to smooth it out.
>
> Tailwinds,
> Doug Rozendaal
OK, got it, Doug. For a minute I thought we were talking about RV's :>)
My original question remains, although I'll be more specific this time:
Why would one need to use the boost pump when switching tanks on an RV,
assuming Van's standard fuel line routing arrangement? Unless one is at
extreme altitudes, there should be no -additional- tendency for vapor
lock during the switching procedure than during normal feed from the
tank. There could be a hot section of stagnant fuel in the cockpit fuel
lines during winter operations which might vaporize during the initial
draw when switching tanks, but the engine driven fuel pump should have
no problem keeping a draw on that (i.e., they should be self priming).
Cooler fuel would be right behind it.
I would suggest that if someone experiences trouble, which is fixed by
using the boost pump, during the tank switching operations that there is
a design or mechanical problem in the fuel system.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 510 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Starter Interruption |
Do you need diodes in each of the lines to the displays?? to prevent
'crossfeed' through the displays??
David Schaefer wrote:
>
> I've wired my RV6 straight down the lines of Aeroelectric's Z-14 with the
> exception that I don't use both busses to start the aircraft ( but I do have
> a cross connect if I loose a single side). That said, I have two Grand
> Rapids displays each with two separate power wires each wired to the two
> different busses so that they will operate if I turn off either buss. Why
> does the alternate buss 'die' when I start the aircraft, killing the
> display? I can understand the primary bus kicking off during start .. but
> why the alternate? I've got to go through the 'reboot' sequence again each
> time I hit the starter!
>
>
> Thanks...
>
>
> David Schaefer
>
> Finishing RV6-A
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: facet electric fuel (boost) pump ? malfunction |
| From: | James Ashford <jashford(at)ashcreekwireless.com> |
Bill,
Replace it! The Facet pumps are relatively cheap considering the
important role they would play in the event of engine driven pump
failure.
On my last homebuilt (not an RV), my facet failed after 150 hours of
flight time.
Jim Ashford
RV7 70% done, 80% to go
On Wednesday, August 11, 2004, at 07:01 AM, SportAV8R(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Question for you fellows:
>
> Last weekend, my Facet didn't sound right on start-up (carbureted
> O-320 with electric solenoid primer) and the engine behaved as if it
> had received no primer shot, though I gave it the usual "4-count" on
> the primer button. The usual loud clacking of the fuel boost pump was
> not present; instead there was a muted clicking... a few light taps on
> the body of the pump with a mallet restored the familiar noise, along
> with a rise in fuel pressure from 1 to 2 psig (normal reading is 4 or
> 5 psig). The engine then started normally and fuel pressure was 4 psi
> with or without the boost pump (normal readings, BTW). The round trip
> flight to Cleveland was completed without incident, and the pump
> sounded and behaved normally on this and a subsequent flight (to Dean
> Meylor's beautiful home airstrip, 9NC9).
>
> I'm wondering if I should be concerned by this recent "hiccup" in pump
> operation... is it the beginning of the end for my electric pump?
> Could it foreshadow a dangerous fuel line stoppage condition?
>
> Just curious how "pre-emptive" I need to be in this situation.
>
> -Bill B / "Stormy"
> RV-6A - 410 hrs
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com> |
| Subject: | New RV-7A Construction log site... |
(not processed: message from valid local sender)
I just got done building my builders log software and set up a front end website
to access the data. The URL is:
http://www.rv7a.com
I am about a month into the project...
- Matt Johnson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net> |
Dean, I use the -9A tie down. It mounts inside the rear bulkhead. There
are four bolts holding this on through the VS. Thus the tie down is
removable like in the wings. Seemed to work great when I fit my VS, but I'm
not flying.....yet. AS for the wiring, I've heard one should run the wire
in the bottom fairing, but angle up and into the VS and rear Bulkhead
somewhat higher so the wire will twist and not bend as the rudder is
deflected. Can't help with the number of holes issue, perhaps this is a
personal preference item.
I doubt if I'm any slower builder than you, but I try not to be anal.
Marty in Brentwood TN, RV-6A fairings, waiting for CS Hartzell to finish
cowling mounting.
From: "Dean Psiropoulos" <deanpsir(at)easystreet.com>
Subject: RV-List: Rudder issues.
-->
I have a few rudder installation issues on my RV-6A. First there is the aft
fuselage skin overlap, I left it fairly long and made some smooth cutouts
where the rudder bottom leading edge would touch it when the rudder is
deflected. From other RVs I've seen most people cut it straight down pretty
close to the aft bulkhead leaving quite a gap there. Any reason for this or
is everyone just cutting it close as a painless exercise?
Also, on the RV-6A there is the tie down bracket mounted on the aft bulkhead
right in front of the fiberglass rudder bottom leading edge. With the rudder
adjusted out from the vertical stab as specified on Van's plans and the tie
down bracket ground down close to the weld, the rudder bottom won't allow
the rudder to inserted far enough in to get the hinge bolts in. What's the
fix for this? Is everyone just adjusting the hiem bearings out from the
rudder to increase the gap? Or are you cutting the leading edge off the
bottom fairing and making it shorter? Or something else?
One last thing, I will be installing a combination aft position light strobe
light in the rudder bottom. I need a hole for the fat strobe wire and a
smaller hole for small power and ground wires to the light. Where is the
best place to put these holes, above the bottom hinge bracket, below the
bottom hinge bracket, some other place? Should I use one large hole or a
large hole and a small hole? I need to make a slot in the rudder bottom to
allow for rudder deflection I assume?! Any suggestions? Thanks for
entertaining this anal slow builder.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
TMX-360 waiting for install
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Pichon" <DeanPichon(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Reassembly at the airport |
I took my aircraft (RV-4) out of the basement in April of 2001 and made
the first flight on August 8th, 2001. In June of the same year, I spent
two weeks in Europe on my honeymoon. Before moving the aircraft to the
airport, the wings had never been fit to the aircraft, nor had any of
the control linkages been connected to the tail. I had installed the
engine and propeller while in the basement, but had to remove both to
get it out of the house.
If you do all you can in the comfort of your home shop, and I mean
everything, and you try your best to choreograph all the remaining
activities, four months is plenty. If you don't have to work for a
living, probably half that is sufficient. I was by no means a fast
builder, as I spent 3 weeks short of 10 years to go from receipt of tail
kit to first flight. I did find, however, that once I was at the
airport, I was highly motivated to get the thing flying. Finally, I've
been flying for just over 3 years, and I still wouldn't consider it
completely done - they never are...
Good luck,
Dean Pichon
Bolton, MA
RV-4, 220hrs
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mickey Coggins
Subject: RV-List: Reassembly at the airport
Hi,
Still several months away, but where I live we have to
plan quite a bit in advance. I'm trying to get an
idea of how long it will take to reassemble my RV8
after transporting it to an airport. I plan to
have the plane 100% assembled and ready to fly
in the workshop before taking it apart to
transport it.
Many thanks for any words of wisdom and experience!
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
=
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Metal Polish/Cleaner? |
After recently removing the plastic from the rest of the plane skins, it's
real obvious where the plastic was removed years earlier, along the rivet
lines. I have stripes where the exposed AL has tarnished. Anyone know of a
good cleaner/polish I can used to even things up? I'm not trying to have a
polished plane, per say, but it would be nice if the whole thing was equally
shiney everywhere, as it might be many months before I have it painted.
Thx,
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: facet electric fuel (boost) pump ? malfunction |
Bill
You may have simply passed a piece of debris through the pump. I'd
monitor it for a while.
Charlie Kuss
>
>Question for you fellows:
>
>Last weekend, my Facet didn't sound right on start-up (carbureted O-320
>with electric solenoid primer) and the engine behaved as if it had
>received no primer shot, though I gave it the usual "4-count" on the
>primer button. The usual loud clacking of the fuel boost pump was not
>present; instead there was a muted clicking... a few light taps on the
>body of the pump with a mallet restored the familiar noise, along with a
>rise in fuel pressure from 1 to 2 psig (normal reading is 4 or 5
>psig). The engine then started normally and fuel pressure was 4 psi with
>or without the boost pump (normal readings, BTW). The round trip flight
>to Cleveland was completed without incident, and the pump sounded and
>behaved normally on this and a subsequent flight (to Dean Meylor's
>beautiful home airstrip, 9NC9).
>
>I'm wondering if I should be concerned by this recent "hiccup" in pump
>operation... is it the beginning of the end for my electric pump? Could
>it foreshadow a dangerous fuel line stoppage condition?
>
>Just curious how "pre-emptive" I need to be in this situation.
>
>-Bill B / "Stormy"
>RV-6A - 410 hrs
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Psiropoulos" <deanpsir(at)easystreet.com> |
Thanks for all the input on the rudder fairing, tie-down and wiring guys.
Hopefully Hurricane Charlie won't make me the proud owner of mangled mess of
aluminum that I've spent the last seven years trying to turn into an RV-6A.
Cross your fingers for me and the rest of the Florida RV builders (you
wouldn't believe how many there are). Thanks again.
Dean Psiropoulos
N197DM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kenneth Cantrell" <kcflyrv(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | RV traveling to PNW |
Hello listers,
My wife and I are planning to fly our RV-6 from home in central Ca to
the greater Seattle area including possibly Friday Harbor and Victoria
BC in a couple weeks. I'd like some advice on where to stay and sights
to see. Advice on customs procedures for travel into Canada appreciated
as well. We'll likely be staying 3 or 4 days.
Thanks in advance for any & all suggestions.
Ken Cantrell
RV-6, 299 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Cherry Max rivet question |
I would like to install some Cherry Max rivets in place of MSP-42 rivets. It's
for the Flap Brace on my 7-A. On the quick build wings you have to use the MSP-42
rivets since there isn't any access to place the AN rivets. I think it's supposed
to be a CR3213-4-6 but that's just a guess?
And yes I know....the MSP-42's will work just fine. I'll just sleep better using
the Max rivets for the flap brace since that's about all that's holding it on.
Thanks!
Karie Daniel
Sammamish
RV-7A QB (feels like a Slow Build)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Todd Bartrim" <haywire(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Matco Parking brake Lock-up? |
Tonight I went out to try a few things with the brakes, but try as I might,
nothing I could do would make them lock up. The parking brake worked
perfectly. Which should be a good thing, but not when trying to
troubleshoot. The parking brake valve is such a simple device it would seem
to be foolproof.
I think I will disassemble the brake callipers for internal inspection
of
the piston. I've been thinking of doing this to upgrade to the
hi-temp/hi-press/super-duper O-rings that were the topic of discussion here
awhile back.
ps. You let your 3 teenage daughters fly your RV ????
Todd Bartrim
RV9Endurance
13B Turbo Rotary
C-FSTB
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
"The world will always have a place for those that bring hard
work and determination to the things they do."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Reassembly at the airport |
Thanks for all the feedback on reassembling the aircraft
at the airport. I pretty clearly underestimated the time
that it will probably take. I was expecting a number in
the hours or days, not weeks and months! I'll need to
rent space in a shop, probably at several hundred dollars
a day, since T hangars are not available here. Sounds like
I need to get a bit more creative - perhaps a barn within
taxi range of an airfield, or a portable tent. Now I know
why so many people in Switzerland build airplanes with
wings that fold!
Thanks again,
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Boost Pump Location RV-6 |
> ...Isolated from the rest of the engine compartment in a box with the
> gascolator, and with a blast tube from the back of the baffling.
>
> Scott
>
>> There's also a bazillion Piper Cherokee-series (Warriors and Archers and
>> etc) out there with the round "beer can" Facet pump happily thumping away
>> on the engine side of the firewall...
The one on the Grumman-American series is not protected in any way. It does
just fine. It also has no gascolator to fool with. When I built my -6A, I
ran with their ideas and have the round Facet pump and no gascolator. I
have no complaints with either decision. I will change Facet pumps for
my -7A, though. One of our contributors told us about another version that
has pipe fittings that are more in line with what we use. I'll use that
one, instead. It will reduce the number of fittings.
Jim Sears in KY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Francis Malczynski" <ebbfmm(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Ameri-King Phone Number |
Does anyone have the number for Ameri-King. Tried calling yesterday and got
some private residence in CA. I used the number off one of their brochures
which is several years old..Thanks
Fran Malczynski
RV-6 N594EF
Olcott, NY
ebbfmm(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Pierce" <rpierce(at)bak.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ameri-King Phone Number |
I've been talking to them for the last several days. The phone number I
have is (714) 842-8555. They aren't always in, especially in the AM, but
will call you back quickly.
Roger Pierce
Bakersfield, CA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Francis Malczynski" <ebbfmm(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Ameri-King Phone Number
>
> Does anyone have the number for Ameri-King. Tried calling yesterday and
got
> some private residence in CA. I used the number off one of their brochures
> which is several years old..Thanks
>
> Fran Malczynski
> RV-6 N594EF
> Olcott, NY
> ebbfmm(at)yahoo.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob 1" <rv3a(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: facet electric fuel (boost) pump ? malfunction |
> Less than $40.00 will put this question to bed:
> >>Sam Buchanan
> >
>
> Where's the fun in that? You guys don't live very close to the edge, do
you? ;-)
>
> Okay, okay, I'll pay Van $40 for the pump + 19.95 S&H + small-order fee
and we'll never know what the real story was. Are you happy now?
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Check your local auto supply stores for a replacement.
Bob - sales tax should be cheaper than $19.95 S&H +
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: facet electric fuel (boost) pump ? malfunction |
Bob 1 wrote:
>
>>Less than $40.00 will put this question to bed:
>>
>>>>Sam Buchanan
>>>
>>Where's the fun in that? You guys don't live very close to the edge, do
>
> you? ;-)
>
>>Okay, okay, I'll pay Van $40 for the pump + 19.95 S&H + small-order fee
>
> and we'll never know what the real story was. Are you happy now?
>
> ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
>
> Check your local auto supply stores for a replacement.
>
>
> Bob - sales tax should be cheaper than $19.95 S&H +
True. NAPA carries the Facet pump under the Balkamp brand; I bought one
for my Stalker kit car. I browsed the NAPA site in an attempt to locate
a link for the pumps but was unable to do so because of the need to
specify a vehicle. But if you go to a NAPA store, you can probably get a
pump with 3/8" NPT that will accept the AN fittings on the old RV pump.
The price will be very close to Vans but without the handling and
shipping fees.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)warpdriveonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: facet electric fuel (boost) pump ? malfunction |
Just be sure you are getting the pump with aviation fittings.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://n5lp.net
>
snip
-)
> >
> > Okay, okay, I'll pay Van $40 for the pump + 19.95 S&H + small-order fee
> and we'll never know what the real story was. Are you happy now?
>
> ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
>
> Check your local auto supply stores for a replacement.
>
>
> Bob - sales tax should be cheaper than $19.95 S&H +
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Swayze <swayze(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Fortune Magazine - Nice article on Vans! |
Fellow Listers,
fortune.com's web site has a really nice article on Van's aircraft: "How
digital manufacturing helped an aviator take off". I thought I might
bring it to everyone's attention, if you haven't seen it already:
http://www.fortune.com/fortune/smallbusiness/roi/articles/0,15114,654762,00.html
AOL users, try this link:
http://www.fortune.com/fortune/onlyonaol/bigstory
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Smith" <dave(at)rv10project.net> |
| Subject: | RV traveling to PNW |
Ken,
DEFINITELY stop by Roche Harbour in the San Juan's! Friday Harbour isn't
bad, but Roche is a whole heck of a lot prettier. Nice paved strip, and the
restaurant serves good food. Very nice area. Call ahead for hotel
reservations if you are going before Labor Day. Only thing to watch on
landing is that there are two windsocks, one at each end (or at least there
was when I was there) and they sometimes point in opposite directions.
------------------------------------------
Dave Smith
http://www.rv10project.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kenneth Cantrell
Subject: RV-List: RV traveling to PNW
Hello listers,
My wife and I are planning to fly our RV-6 from home in central Ca to the
greater Seattle area including possibly Friday Harbor and Victoria BC in a
couple weeks. I'd like some advice on where to stay and sights to see.
Advice on customs procedures for travel into Canada appreciated as well.
We'll likely be staying 3 or 4 days.
Thanks in advance for any & all suggestions.
Ken Cantrell
RV-6, 299 hours
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter Laurence <dr.laurence(at)mbdi.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Cherry Max rivet question |
Kari,
A Cheery self-plugging flush rivet that I have used is a CR2662.
The grip length are as follows:
-1 .02-.062
-2 .0623-.125
-3 .126-.187
-4 .188-.250
-5 .251-.312
Hope this helps.
Peter Laurence
RV9A
waiting for wings
>>
> I would like to install some Cherry Max rivets in place of MSP-42 rivets.
It's for the Flap Brace on my 7-A. On the quick build wings you have to use
the MSP-42 rivets since there isn't any access to place the AN rivets. I
think it's supposed to be a CR3213-4-6 but that's just a guess?
>
> And yes I know....the MSP-42's will work just fine. I'll just sleep better
using the Max rivets for the flap brace since that's about all that's
holding it on.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Karie Daniel
> Sammamish
> RV-7A QB (feels like a Slow Build)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BBreckenridge(at)att.net |
| Subject: | Re: RV traveling to PNW |
Don't forget Mt. St. Helens if you haven't seen it up close and personal. You
got your dome forming in the center of the crater and a dozen or so plumes of
steam rising. Quite a sight/site to see. No TFR's (as of last monday when we
went up). Just drift a little to the right when you go by Portland - can't miss
it!
Bruce Breckenridge
40018
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Baffle caulking tip |
I finally got around to caulking between my engine and baffling last night.
After making a mess of the hard-to-get spots on the left side using my
fingers and a screwdriver, I decided there had to be a better way. On
a short walk, I decided I needed a tube with a plunger that I could push
into the hard-to-get areas and then squeeze out the caulking. Being in
the usual position of having stuff at home, but not at the hangar, I hit on
the idea of using a straw. Sure enough, there was a left over McDonalds
straw in my garbage can. Now I needed a plunger. Tried several different
wires and finally found that nyloflow tubing was the closest fit into my
straw. I plugged the end of the nyloflow tubing by heating it (with a match)
and then pushing it into a hard surface. I trimmed the excess melted
material off the end and filed it smooth and now I had a tube and plunger.
It worked pretty well. Push the Permatex tube into the straw and
load several inches of caulking into the straw. Then insert the plunger
and guide the straw to where you want the caulking. Push the plunger
in and you get caulking right where you want it but can't reach! Keeps
the fingers a lot cleaner as well!
Doug Medema
RV-6A N276DM
I finally got around to caulking between my engine and baffling last night.
After making a mess of the hard-to-get spots on the left side using my
fingers and a screwdriver, I decided there had to be a better way. On
a short walk, I decided I needed a tube with a plunger that I could push
into the hard-to-get areas and then squeeze out the caulking. Being in
the usual position of having stuff at home, but not at the hangar, I hit on
the idea of using a straw. Sure enough, there was a left over McDonalds
straw in my garbage can. Now I needed a plunger. Tried several different
wires and finally found that nyloflow tubing was the closest fit into my
straw. I plugged the end of the nyloflow tubing by heating it(with a match)
and then pushing it into a hard surface. I trimmed the excess melted
material off the end and filed it smooth and now I had a tube and plunger.
It worked pretty well. Push the Permatex tube into the straw and
load several inches of caulking into the straw.Then insert the plunger
and guide the straw to where you want the caulking. Push the plunger
in and you get caulking right where you want it but can't reach! Keeps
the fingers a lot cleaner as well!
Doug Medema
RV-6A N276DM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV traveling to PNW |
If landing to the west get ready for multiple touchdowns and the runway
steps down and away from you, it's really fun. Technically it is a private
strip and you should call in advance for "permission" and give them your
tail number. The oysters at the restaurant are fabulous. Eat downstairs in
the causual place... cheaper with better atmostphere than the white
tablecloth room upstairs.
Randy Lervold
Vancouver, WA
>
> DEFINITELY stop by Roche Harbour in the San Juan's! Friday Harbour isn't
> bad, but Roche is a whole heck of a lot prettier. Nice paved strip, and
the
> restaurant serves good food. Very nice area. Call ahead for hotel
> reservations if you are going before Labor Day. Only thing to watch on
> landing is that there are two windsocks, one at each end (or at least
there
> was when I was there) and they sometimes point in opposite directions.
>
>
> ------------------------------------------
> Dave Smith
> http://www.rv10project.net
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kenneth Cantrell
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RV traveling to PNW
>
>
> Hello listers,
> My wife and I are planning to fly our RV-6 from home in central Ca to the
> greater Seattle area including possibly Friday Harbor and Victoria BC in a
> couple weeks. I'd like some advice on where to stay and sights to see.
> Advice on customs procedures for travel into Canada appreciated as well.
> We'll likely be staying 3 or 4 days.
> Thanks in advance for any & all suggestions.
>
> Ken Cantrell
> RV-6, 299 hours
>
>
> advertising on the Matronics Forums.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!!! |
This is so pathetic. I am so tired of List cops. I'm putting the religeous content
back in my signature AND I'm going to congratulate someone. Go ahead take
up bandwith complaining about it. You don't like it find another list. Just
deal with it!!
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
________________________________________________________________________________
FYI
http://emagair.com/Intro.htm
Let Brad know if you own a A1B6D or A3B6D and want the dual mag pack electronic
ignition replacement developed anytime soon.
Subj: RE: E-MAG
Date: 8/12/2004 2:13:41 PM Eastern Daylight Time
From: "Brad Dement" <brad(at)proplink.org>
To:
Sent from the Internet (Details)
That's fine, I'll add you to the list. But if you are looking at next
summer, don't give up on us at all. I suspect we will be able to help.
Happy Flying
-----Original Message-----
From: RV8ter(at)aol.com [mailto:RV8ter(at)aol.com]
Subject: Re: E-MAG
yes, I would like to know more as you develop your system however I don't
feel confident the timing is going to work out.
My one time Mooney A1B6D engine is in an experimental (Van's RV8) I am
finishing up and hope to have flying next summer.
There's a lot of them in the exp market place where a 200 hp angle valve
engine was desired.
Good luck and hurry up!
lucky
In a message dated 8/12/2004 11:39:46 AM Eastern Daylight Time, "Brad
Dement" writes:
>Thanks for the inquiry. "At the moment" you are correct. We don't offer a
>solution for dual magneto engines. However, getting a dual setup is high
on
>our "to do" list. In large measure, the timing depends on how many of
these
>engines are out there and how many might be interested in an upgrade.
>Obviously, the availability for certified units (Mooneys/Cardinals) would
>lag far behind Experimentals (RVs).
>
>Let me know if you want to be included on our notification list for updates
>up on this feature.
>
>Thanks again for you're interest.
>
>Brad Dement
>E-MAG Ignitions
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: RV8ter(at)aol.com [mailto:RV8ter(at)aol.com]
>Sent: Thursday, August 12, 2004 10:05 AM
>To: lycoming(at)yahoogroups.com
>Cc: info(at)emagair.com
>Subject: [SPAM] Re: [lycoming] New Electronic Ignition System and
>Supplier
>
>
>Unfortunately it doesn't appear to be a great solution for the Dual Mag
pack
>lycomings found on Mooneys/Cardinals.
>
>ie, my A1B6D ;-)
>
>I'd have to get a different electronic ignition system alltogether for the
>other set up plugs.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <rv6flyer(at)improvementteam.com> |
| Subject: | Auto Pilots and servos |
Hello Listers,
I have deliberately decided to wait on posting this message until I felt I
could start to actually think about it more. I intend to have an auto pilot
in my RV-6 including altitude hold but wanted to wait until I flew the
airplane and was ready to have the benefit of the extra money. I did put
quite a bit in my panel now and it is *supposed* to be wired for an S-tec 30
However, I don't really know what that means or if it truely is. I had
installed a DG with a heading bug for this purpose as well. Not usefull
without the auto pilot.
My panel includes the full Appollo Slimline stack (Yes I know sadley is now
Garmin and somewhat obsolete). You can see it at http://www
bryantechnology.com/family/rv6/rv6.htm or in the top left corner and just
inside of your chief aircraft catalog.
Now the questions: There has been lots of talk regarding all the options of
autopilots and very little regarding the S-tec. I can presume probably due
to the cost. I have not installed any servos or anything and probably won't
until after I fly (This Year!) Is there some concensus on using any
specific auto pilot rather than s-tec? Is this strictly a cost issue or are
there other reasons? I definately want Alt. Hold. I don't have room in my
panel to add other than to hopefully just replace the TC. (as planned)
Also, I have heard about the servos being somewhat interchangeable as well
between Navaid, etc. What are the limitations here? Should I absolutely
add some wire or changes to what I have done to accomodate adding an
autopilot later?
Don't mean to blast questions, but had postponed to prevent the feature
creep but now I am getting close to moving to the airport and don't want to
overlook any thing I absolutely should do now.
Thanks for any help
Tim Bryan
RV-6 N616TB
In the making since February of 1990
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "GMC" <gmcnutt(at)uniserve.com> |
| Subject: | RV traveling to PNW |
Hi Ken
I was going to reply off list but thought others might appreciate some of
this info:
Canada Customs procedures require you to telephone 1-888-226-7277 at least
two hours in advance to give arrival notice and then you must arrive at a
designated port of entry. During your flight Customs will check you out and
decide if they will meet you or simply clear you via telephone. On arrival
you may be met by a customs agent, if not, you must telephone the same
number and confirm that your declaration has not changed and they give you a
clearance number to put in your journey log.
I suspect that they meet most if not all foreign aircraft and since 9/11
they want to see your pilots license, medical validation and certificate of
registration. You can call this number (1-888-226-7277) from home and ask
what I.D you require.
The following are Ports of Entry in our area; Victoria BC and several others
on Vancouver Island, in the Vancouver BC area use Boundary Bay or
Abbottsford. There is no charge for Canadian Customs however Nav Canada
(privatized ATC) will ding you about $15-$20 Canadian (1/4 of annual fee)
and on your return US Customs have a $25 annual fee (you may already have a
sticker).
Suggestion; if you only want to go to Victoria and not fly to other
locations in Canada you can avoid the above fees by taking a pleasant ferry
ride from Port Angeles to Victoria's inner harbor, $9 per person. See
www.northolympic.com/coho
Port Angeles is one of my favorite airports because with a tourist
orientated town and a fabulous county transit system. If you telephone the
transit system from the airport they will radio the next bus that normally
passes the airport to stop and pick you up at the FBO (Write Bros) office.
At the downtown bus loop it is a two block walk to ferry terminal. You can
also get a day pass on the bus for a few dollars and tour the Olympic
Peninsula, go to Forks for lunch on a greyhound type bus etc and then get
dropped off a few yards from your aircraft, nice!
The previously mentioned airports at Roch Harbor and Friday Harbor are nice
plus Orcas Island has Rosario Resort and Lopez (3S1) has a golf course
adjacent, forget the 3 or 4 days you could spend weeks!
And should you decide to come to the BC mainland here is a commercial plug
for my local airport, Langley B.C. (CYNJ).
Located 20 miles East of Vancouver. We have fuel, tie-downs, 2 restaurants
on field, maintenance and engine shop, hotel and yes, a Chocolate factory
within walking distance, all this packaged in a quaint airport with tower
and 1900 foot paved runway!
George in Langley
Hello listers,
My wife and I are planning to fly our RV-6 from home in central Ca to
the greater Seattle area including possibly Friday Harbor and Victoria
BC in a couple weeks. I'd like some advice on where to stay and sights
to see. Advice on customs procedures for travel into Canada appreciated
as well. We'll likely be staying 3 or 4 days.
Thanks in advance for any & all suggestions.
Ken Cantrell
RV-6, 299 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Todd Bartrim" <haywire(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Matco Parking brake Lock-up? |
I'm curious as to how these brakes lock-up while in the air. When mine
lock-up, it's only when they've been fully applied for parking, then they
just don't want to release, which will prevent me from getting airborne at
all (even with full boost:-). These incidents of landing with a locked brake
puzzle me. Did the pilot apply brakes while in flight? Not likely, but
possible. If the brake was free enough to do a take-off roll, then why
wouldn't it remain free enough for a landing roll. Is it due to just enough
drag that was able to be overcome during take-off by enough rudder, but upon
touchdown the pilot was unable to compensate quickly enough to prevent a
ground loop? (yes, nosewheels can groundloop too). Or is there some
mysterious gremlin that locks the brake(s) solid?
Todd Bartrim (removed the DNA, as these questions, while unanswered yet,
should be in the archives)
RV9Endurance
13B Turbo Rotary
C-FSTB
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
"The world will always have a place for those that bring hard
work and determination to the things they do."
>
> Have a couple of friends that were flying to Alaska in a 125 hour old
Maule
> this summer. Used the parking brake. Took off OK but one brake was still
> locked on landing. Wiped out the gear, one wing, 3 bladed prop.
Fortunately
> the $45,000 repair is covered by insurance as they are now looking at more
> things.
>
> Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
=====================================
In 1954, I rented a a Cessna 140 and was told NOT
to use the parking brake because it_MIGHT_stick.
I used it out of teenage curiosity and sure 'nuff....
upon landing one wheel was locked. No damage, but
the aircraft groundlooped so violently that my door
opened and the centrifical force had my upper body
hangin' out the door.
Moral of the story..... wear your seatbelt????
P.S.
I've never taken 'advantage' or trusted that kind of
parking brake setup since. Gimmee wheel chocks.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Auto Pilots and servos |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
TruTrak http://www.trutrakflightsystems.com/ttfsproducts.html
Better performance, less money.
Bob
RV-10 #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
Subject: RV-List: Auto Pilots and servos
-->
Hello Listers,
I have deliberately decided to wait on posting this message until I felt
I could start to actually think about it more. I intend to have an auto
pilot in my RV-6 including altitude hold but wanted to wait until I flew
the airplane and was ready to have the benefit of the extra money. I
did put quite a bit in my panel now and it is *supposed* to be wired for
an S-tec 30
However, I don't really know what that means or if it truely is. I
had installed a DG with a heading bug for this purpose as well. Not
usefull without the auto pilot.
My panel includes the full Appollo Slimline stack (Yes I know sadley is
now Garmin and somewhat obsolete). You can see it at http://www
bryantechnology.com/family/rv6/rv6.htm or in the top left corner and
just inside of your chief aircraft catalog.
Now the questions: There has been lots of talk regarding all the
options of autopilots and very little regarding the S-tec. I can
presume probably due to the cost. I have not installed any servos or
anything and probably won't until after I fly (This Year!) Is there
some concensus on using any specific auto pilot rather than s-tec? Is
this strictly a cost issue or are there other reasons? I definately
want Alt. Hold. I don't have room in my panel to add other than to
hopefully just replace the TC. (as planned)
Also, I have heard about the servos being somewhat interchangeable as
well between Navaid, etc. What are the limitations here? Should I
absolutely add some wire or changes to what I have done to accomodate
adding an autopilot later?
Don't mean to blast questions, but had postponed to prevent the feature
creep but now I am getting close to moving to the airport and don't want
to overlook any thing I absolutely should do now.
Thanks for any help
Tim Bryan
RV-6 N616TB
In the making since February of 1990
=
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Matco Parking brake Lock-up? |
This is down right scary. Its also the exact reason I did not put in a
parking brake.
>
> I'm curious as to how these brakes lock-up while in the air. When
> mine
>lock-up, it's only when they've been fully applied for parking, then they
>just don't want to release, which will prevent me from getting airborne at
>all (even with full boost:-). These incidents of landing with a locked brake
>puzzle me. Did the pilot apply brakes while in flight? Not likely, but
>possible. If the brake was free enough to do a take-off roll, then why
>wouldn't it remain free enough for a landing roll. Is it due to
>just enough
>drag that was able to be overcome during take-off by enough rudder, but upon
>touchdown the pilot was unable to compensate quickly enough to prevent a
>ground loop? (yes, nosewheels can groundloop too). Or is there some
>mysterious gremlin that locks the brake(s) solid?
>
>Todd Bartrim (removed the DNA, as these questions, while unanswered
>yet,
>should be in the archives)
>
>RV9Endurance
>13B Turbo Rotary
>C-FSTB
>http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
>
> "The world will always have a place for those that bring hard
>work and determination to the things they do."
>
> >
> > Have a couple of friends that were flying to Alaska in a 125 hour old
>Maule
> > this summer. Used the parking brake. Took off OK but one brake was still
> > locked on landing. Wiped out the gear, one wing, 3 bladed prop.
>Fortunately
> > the $45,000 repair is covered by insurance as they are now looking at more
> > things.
> >
> > Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
>=====================================
>
>In 1954, I rented a a Cessna 140 and was told NOT
>to use the parking brake because it_MIGHT_stick.
>
>I used it out of teenage curiosity and sure 'nuff....
>upon landing one wheel was locked. No damage, but
>the aircraft groundlooped so violently that my door
>opened and the centrifical force had my upper body
>hangin' out the door.
>
>Moral of the story..... wear your seatbelt????
>
>P.S.
>I've never taken 'advantage' or trusted that kind of
>parking brake setup since. Gimmee wheel chocks.
>
>Bob
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Auto Pilots and servos |
Tim Bryan wrote:
> Now the questions: There has been lots of talk regarding all the options of
> autopilots and very little regarding the S-tec. I can presume probably due
> to the cost. I have not installed any servos or anything and probably won't
> until after I fly (This Year!) Is there some concensus on using any
> specific auto pilot rather than s-tec? Is this strictly a cost issue or are
> there other reasons? I definately want Alt. Hold. I don't have room in my
> panel to add other than to hopefully just replace the TC. (as planned)
Tim,
The Navaid, EZ-Pilot, and TruTrak autopilots each can be installed in
lieu of a turn coordinator. TruTrak offers autopilots with altitude hold
or you can go with the feature-packed EZ-Pilot and add the AlTrak from
TruTrak. The AlTrak only requires one hole in the panel for the switch.
Scroll down this page to see the EZ-Pilot and AlTrak in the panel of my
RV-6:
http://thervjournal.com
>
> Also, I have heard about the servos being somewhat interchangeable as well
> between Navaid, etc. What are the limitations here? Should I absolutely
> add some wire or changes to what I have done to accomodate adding an
> autopilot later?
You can add the autopilot later without much additional work. The servos
are often added to flying aircraft and the wiring requirements are
minimal. All you will need from your avionics is a NMEA data feed which
is one wire unless you also slave the autopilot to a VOR/ILS receiver.
You will find an autopilot will quickly become one of your favorite
devices in the panel of your RV. There is a ton of info in the list
archives on the various autopilot systems, and most manufacturer's
websites have installation/user manuals you can download.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
| Subject: | Border Crossing (was RV traveling to PNW) |
In addition to George's helpful information, the Home Wing/EAA 105 maintains a
page on their web site with all the information you need to know to fly from
the U.S. into Canada and back.
http://www.edt.com/homewing/international/
I'm assured by those who come to our fly-in at Langley, BC, that's it's really
not a big deal. (Though there are some fees, unfortunately.)
Also, a tip for anyone travelling in a group: cross the border in formation.
Nav Canada bills only the formation lead. (But U.S. Customs bills each
airplane when you return the U.S.)
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <rv6flyer(at)improvementteam.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Auto Pilots and servos |
Thanks Sam and others. I have a couple of questions.
The EZPilot (II) has a built in course for setting a track. Does this mean
the heading bug would not be a factor?
Do I recall others to say they prefer the LCD display with out canopies?
With the Altrak is the Trim Sensing (TS) a worthwhile add on?
Where can I confirm the data stream from my GPS (GX60) is compatible?
Seems I heard about some kits for specific install in RV's. Is this so with
either of these?
Thanks
Tim
-------Original Message-------
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Date: 08/12/04 15:11:30
Subject: Re: RV-List: Auto Pilots and servos
Tim Bryan wrote:
> Now the questions: There has been lots of talk regarding all the options
of
> autopilots and very little regarding the S-tec. I can presume probably
due
> to the cost. I have not installed any servos or anything and probably won
t
> until after I fly (This Year!) Is there some concensus on using any
> specific auto pilot rather than s-tec? Is this strictly a cost issue or
are
> there other reasons? I definately want Alt. Hold. I don't have room in
my
> panel to add other than to hopefully just replace the TC. (as planned)
Tim,
The Navaid, EZ-Pilot, and TruTrak autopilots each can be installed in
lieu of a turn coordinator. TruTrak offers autopilots with altitude hold
or you can go with the feature-packed EZ-Pilot and add the AlTrak from
TruTrak. The AlTrak only requires one hole in the panel for the switch.
Scroll down this page to see the EZ-Pilot and AlTrak in the panel of my
RV-6:
http://thervjournal.com
>
> Also, I have heard about the servos being somewhat interchangeable as well
> between Navaid, etc. What are the limitations here? Should I absolutely
> add some wire or changes to what I have done to accomodate adding an
> autopilot later?
You can add the autopilot later without much additional work. The servos
are often added to flying aircraft and the wiring requirements are
minimal. All you will need from your avionics is a NMEA data feed which
is one wire unless you also slave the autopilot to a VOR/ILS receiver.
You will find an autopilot will quickly become one of your favorite
devices in the panel of your RV. There is a ton of info in the list
archives on the various autopilot systems, and most manufacturer's
websites have installation/user manuals you can download.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Auto Pilots and servos |
Tim Bryan wrote:
>
> Thanks Sam and others. I have a couple of questions.
>
> The EZPilot (II) has a built in course for setting a track. Does this mean
> the heading bug would not be a factor?
The EZ-Pilot (and DigiTrak) receives tracking and heading info from a
NMEA data feed from a GPS, either panel or handheld. I am not familiar
enough with heading bugs on DGs to know how they might interface with a
panel-mount GPS unit.
I just punch in the waypoint I want on my little 'ol Airmap 100 and the
EZ-Pilot takes me there..... :-)
>
> Do I recall others to say they prefer the LCD display with out canopies?
You most definitely want the LCD display on an EZ-Pilot in an RV.
>
> With the Altrak is the Trim Sensing (TS) a worthwhile add on?
I don't see any need for it.
>
> Where can I confirm the data stream from my GPS (GX60) is compatible?
Check with Jerry or Chuck at Trio Avionics.
>
> Seems I heard about some kits for specific install in RV's. Is this so with
> either of these?
TruTrak has RV specific brackets, not sure about Trio. Custom bracket or
no, the servo installation shouldn't be much of a challenge for somebody
who has built their own plane. :-)
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV traveling to PNW |
I'd put in a suggestion to fly into Courtenay Airpark, half-way up Vancouver
Island on the East side.
The reason my wife and I like going there frequently is The Old House
restaurant located about one block north of the airstrip.
The food is excellent, the prices really reasonable, and don't be surprized
when, a few minutes after you order something that's described as having
fresh herbs, you notice the chef come out of the kitchen and walk into the
garden to pull out a handful of herbs.
Now that's fresh.
The current menu-it changes year round depending on what's in season, is
available on line, just do a google search for The Old House.
My wife views our RV-6 as her personal lunch buggy.
HEy, who am I to argue, at least I get ot go flying!
Scott In Vancouver
PS: I'll leave it to someone else to suggest you stop into Chilliwack's
Airport Coffee Shop for Barb MacDonald's homemade pies. Glass plate-no
aluminum- and every filling picked locally by hand, nothing out of a
five-gallon pail. Like the airport registry said," Fly for pie to die for"!
----- Original Message -----
From: "GMC" <gmcnutt(at)uniserve.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV traveling to PNW
>
> Hi Ken
>
> I was going to reply off list but thought others might appreciate some of
> this info:
>
> Canada Customs procedures require you to telephone 1-888-226-7277 at least
> two hours in advance to give arrival notice and then you must arrive at a
> designated port of entry. During your flight Customs will check you out
and
> decide if they will meet you or simply clear you via telephone. On arrival
> you may be met by a customs agent, if not, you must telephone the same
> number and confirm that your declaration has not changed and they give you
a
> clearance number to put in your journey log.
> I suspect that they meet most if not all foreign aircraft and since 9/11
> they want to see your pilots license, medical validation and certificate
of
> registration. You can call this number (1-888-226-7277) from home and ask
> what I.D you require.
>
> The following are Ports of Entry in our area; Victoria BC and several
others
> on Vancouver Island, in the Vancouver BC area use Boundary Bay or
> Abbottsford. There is no charge for Canadian Customs however Nav Canada
> (privatized ATC) will ding you about $15-$20 Canadian (1/4 of annual fee)
> and on your return US Customs have a $25 annual fee (you may already have
a
> sticker).
>
> Suggestion; if you only want to go to Victoria and not fly to other
> locations in Canada you can avoid the above fees by taking a pleasant
ferry
> ride from Port Angeles to Victoria's inner harbor, $9 per person. See
> www.northolympic.com/coho
>
> Port Angeles is one of my favorite airports because with a tourist
> orientated town and a fabulous county transit system. If you telephone the
> transit system from the airport they will radio the next bus that normally
> passes the airport to stop and pick you up at the FBO (Write Bros) office.
> At the downtown bus loop it is a two block walk to ferry terminal. You can
> also get a day pass on the bus for a few dollars and tour the Olympic
> Peninsula, go to Forks for lunch on a greyhound type bus etc and then get
> dropped off a few yards from your aircraft, nice!
>
> The previously mentioned airports at Roch Harbor and Friday Harbor are
nice
> plus Orcas Island has Rosario Resort and Lopez (3S1) has a golf course
> adjacent, forget the 3 or 4 days you could spend weeks!
>
> And should you decide to come to the BC mainland here is a commercial plug
> for my local airport, Langley B.C. (CYNJ).
> Located 20 miles East of Vancouver. We have fuel, tie-downs, 2 restaurants
> on field, maintenance and engine shop, hotel and yes, a Chocolate factory
> within walking distance, all this packaged in a quaint airport with tower
> and 1900 foot paved runway!
>
> George in Langley
>
>
> Hello listers,
> My wife and I are planning to fly our RV-6 from home in central Ca to
> the greater Seattle area including possibly Friday Harbor and Victoria
> BC in a couple weeks. I'd like some advice on where to stay and sights
> to see. Advice on customs procedures for travel into Canada appreciated
> as well. We'll likely be staying 3 or 4 days.
> Thanks in advance for any & all suggestions.
>
> Ken Cantrell
> RV-6, 299 hours
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: CS vs FP props |
> -I made my new spinner with NO visible screws cause Mike Stewart told me
"I
> had to" (thanks Mike....buddy). This took me 6 days but now that it's done
I'm
> real happy with it.
Duuuuuude...please enlighten us as to how to keep the fasteners out of
sight! Did you use piano hinges? Just kidding...but what's your method?
I assume screws through the back of the spinner bulkhead or something?
Would love to see pics.
Glad you're enjoying your new prop. I wouldn't even *think* about using a
fixed pitch prop on a high performance aircraft! (flame on)
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Matco Parking brake Lock-up? |
In a message dated 8/12/2004 2:24:55 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com writes:
This is down right scary. Its also the exact reason I did not put in a
parking brake.
====================================
I don't understand this whole thread. I have the Parker Cleveland Parking
Brake valve and it continues to work perfectly after almost 6.5 yrs and
hundreds of applications. Not once has it failed to do exactly what it was
designed to do (close off the fluid return to the master when actuated on the
ground
following brake application, and allow brake fluid flow to the master when
released on the ground). I have an ACS ratcheting cable actuator operating
the arm.
Are you folks sure that your valve is acting up and that you don't instead
have the infamous master return springs with the lost mojo?
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 708 hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: CS vs FP props |
Dan Checkoway wrote:
>
>
>
>>-I made my new spinner with NO visible screws cause Mike Stewart told me
>>
>>
>"I
>
>
>>had to" (thanks Mike....buddy). This took me 6 days but now that it's done
>>
>>
>I'm
>
>
>>real happy with it.
>>
>>
>
>Duuuuuude...please enlighten us as to how to keep the fasteners out of
>sight! Did you use piano hinges? Just kidding...but what's your method?
>
>I assume screws through the back of the spinner bulkhead or something?
>Would love to see pics.
>
>Glad you're enjoying your new prop. I wouldn't even *think* about using a
>fixed pitch prop on a high performance aircraft! (flame on)
>
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
>
Dan CS is nice but I find that when I fly my old 180hp FP RV-6 along
with guys with CS I get there the same time they do.:-)
BTW it is a secret how Rick and I have no show spinner fastners. :-)
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: CS vs FP props |
Dan Checkoway wrote:
>
>
>
>>-I made my new spinner with NO visible screws cause Mike Stewart told me
>>
>>
>"I
>
>
>>had to" (thanks Mike....buddy). This took me 6 days but now that it's done
>>
>>
>I'm
>
>
>>real happy with it.
>>
>>
>
>Duuuuuude...please enlighten us as to how to keep the fasteners out of
>sight! Did you use piano hinges? Just kidding...but what's your method?
>
>I assume screws through the back of the spinner bulkhead or something?
>Would love to see pics.
>
>Glad you're enjoying your new prop. I wouldn't even *think* about using a
>fixed pitch prop on a high performance aircraft! (flame on)
>
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
>
>
Actually Dan, here is a photo of how my spinner looks on the inside, as
you can see the screws do go through the
backing plate from the rear into the nut plates that are attached to the
inside ring on the spinner. As I have a FP I have a
plate on the front of the prop that has a alum pipe the fits very tight
into the hole you see in the front bulkhead of the spinner.
I am not sure if Rick did his this same way or not but I did send him
this picture when he was asking for tips on how to do it.
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~jsflyrv/spinner.jpg
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Matco Parking brake Lock-up? |
Avaition Story - Some Humor - Long - Delete Now - if not interested
DO NOT ARCHIVE
While I was flying the OV-10, we had a sister squadron that flew HH-53
helicopters. One of the HH-53s had been deployed to Canada for an exercise.
On the way home, it blew several tires. I was asked to fly to Luke AFB and
take several of them for the crewchief to replace. The OV-10 had tons of
cargo space behind the rear seat.
While standing at the bar in the Luke AFB Officer's club, the pilot told me
how it all happened. As they flew over the Grand Canyon (Yes, there was a
day when you could do it without getting into trouble), they heard an SOS on
121.5. One of the rafting tours had a lady, who broke one of her legs
during a rough ride shooting one of the bigger rapids. They decided that
they could go down to the bottom and pick her up.
The HH-53 is big, really big. There was no place level or big enough to
land. So the pilot put just one wheel down on the un-even ground and to
keep from rolling around, set the parking park. While the HH-53 hovered,
the lady was loaded and flown to Grand Canyon Airport. The pilot was going
to land beside the terminal building when he saw a small plane parked there.
He could easily flip the plane with his rotor wash. So he decided to do a
ROLLING LANDING on the runway. You guessed it, the parking brake was still
on and several tires blew. After unloading the lady, he then flew to Luke
AFB and did a hovering landing with no more damage to the helicopter.
From HERO to GOAT, in just one second.
The best part of this story is that the pilot knew the squadron commander
was going to have his ass when he got home. Of course, he just happened to
be the squadron commander. :-) The other pilots never let him forget it.
Moral - Let no good deed go unpunished!
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA
Harmon Rocket-II
http://mysite.verizon.net/t.gummo/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Todd Bartrim" <haywire(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Matco Parking brake Lock-up? |
This is what I was asking. I'm certain you're not the only one who doesn't
have any problem, but there is at least 2 of us that do.
What is the infamous master return springs with the lost mojo? I'm open
to
all ideas.
Todd Bartrim
RV9Endurance
13B Turbo Rotary
C-FSTB
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
"The world will always have a place for those that bring hard
work and determination to the things they do."
====================================
I don't understand this whole thread. I have the Parker Cleveland Parking
Brake valve and it continues to work perfectly after almost 6.5 yrs and
hundreds of applications. Not once has it failed to do exactly what it was
designed to do (close off the fluid return to the master when actuated on
the ground
following brake application, and allow brake fluid flow to the master when
released on the ground). I have an ACS ratcheting cable actuator operating
the arm.
Are you folks sure that your valve is acting up and that you don't instead
have the infamous master return springs with the lost mojo?
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 708 hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob 1" <rv3a(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Matco Parking brake Lock-up? |
>
> OK, so we have no answer as to why, but a few horror stories about real
bad
> landings caused by stuck brakes. I'm guessing that many of these have been
> sold and found their way into RV's. How about a few comment's from those
> that have 'em & no problems?
================================================
Todd,
I'm no Matco parking brake expert, BUT -
After 50 years of flight, I just keep in mind that.....
1. A thousand "Atta' Boys" cancel out with one "OH SH*T" !!!
2. Murphy's Law prevails and is doubly to the point for aviation....
<<<< IF IT CAN FAIL, IT WILL >>>>
3. KISS is another biggie that applies - Keep It Simple Stoopid !!!
4. YMMV, but may become less likely over the 'long haul'.
Bob -
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RGray67968(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | No screws spinner |
Hi Dan,
Couldn't find much in the archives but I had an 'old' message from Mr.
Springer (on the list) which helped, plus I gave him a call. Actually, it's pretty
easy to make the 'NO VISIBLE SCREWS' spinner - yes, you mount it from the back
with the top half of the cowl removed:
1-take the spinner and make the cutouts for the prop root.
2-rough up the area above where the REAR bulkhead fits inside the spinner.
3-tape the REAR bulkhead with some packing tape for a mold release trying to
avoid any wrinkles or use a mold release.
4-fit the REAR bulkhead to the spinner
5-lay up about 4 layers of the 8.9 oz cloth to make a 'shelf' above the
bulkhead. You'll have a 90deg turn - some of the glass will attach to the inside
of
the spinner and the rest will lay on the bulkhead which is your form. Do this
for both sides of the cutouts extending past the cutout for a full 'shelf' on
both sides.
6-When cured, remove the bulkhead and trim the 'shelf' leaving about a 1"
shelf all the way around (except for the cutouts...obviously).
7-Drill for platenuts - I used platenuts for AN3-5A bolts......6 on each side.
8-Make your little covers for behind the prop root and attach to the rear
bulkhead - I used .063 aluminum to match the spinner thickness.
9--Paint
10-Mount the spinner and go flying.
My old spinner had 24 screws. I'm real happy with the new spinner, nice and
smooth with no screws to wax around. Plus people ask...."hey, how'd ya' do
that?"
Rick Gray in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm - thanks to Jerry Springer for helping
me with this and to Mike Stewart for convincing me that 'I NEEDED ONE'! Yes,
it worth it!!
archive this one cause there is nothing in there to tell you how to do
it.....grin!!
> -I made my new spinner with NO visible screws cause Mike Stewart told me
"I
> had to" (thanks Mike....buddy). This took me 6 days but now that it's done
I'm
> real happy with it.
Duuuuuude...please enlighten us as to how to keep the fasteners out of
sight! Did you use piano hinges? Just kidding...but what's your method?
I assume screws through the back of the spinner bulkhead or something?
Would love to see pics.
Glad you're enjoying your new prop. I wouldn't even *think* about using a
fixed pitch prop on a high performance aircraft! (flame on)
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RGray67968(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | No Screws Spinner |
I may have left out that I just used Vans FORWARD BULKHEAD 'AS IS' and
slipped the spinner right over it.
Nice snug fit with NO wobble.
Rick Gray in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm
Actually Dan, here is a photo of how my spinner looks on the inside, as
you can see the screws do go through the
backing plate from the rear into the nut plates that are attached to the
inside ring on the spinner. As I have a FP I have a
plate on the front of the prop that has a alum pipe the fits very tight
into the hole you see in the front bulkhead of the spinner.
I am not sure if Rick did his this same way or not but I did send him
this picture when he was asking for tips on how to do it.
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~jsflyrv/spinner.jpg
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR" <Fred.Stucklen(at)UTCFuelCells.com> |
Subject: Re: Matco Parking brake Lock-up?
Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2004 09:35:02 -0400
I have had a similar problem with this parking brake, but found that it
was
related to the position of the arm when the brake was released. Adjusting
the
controls to more fully open the valve has seemed to solve the problem. I'm
not sure if applying pressure to the brakes while releasing the valve helps
as I have not tried that since adjusting the cable position...
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV
250 Hr/1 Yr
This is what I was asking. I'm certain you're not the only one
who doesn't
have any problem, but there is at least 2 of us that do.
What is the infamous master return springs with the lost
mojo? I'm open
to
all ideas.
Todd Bartrim
RV9Endurance
13B Turbo Rotary
C-FSTB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Auto Pilots and servos |
I can definitely recommend the trutrack alt hold. I installed mine after
flying for a while and it only required a couple of days of work. The
hardest part was running the wires through tight adel clamps under the
floor. I also couldnt run them through my plastic conduit due to way too
much work required. I would just buy the trutrack alt hold, build the
wiring harness (about 4 or 5 wires I think) and run the wires before
finishing. It only takes a small hole (3/4" ?) in your panel and your
done. I installed the brain behind the baggage panel close to the servo to
simplify wiring. I didnt hook it up to the airplane static sys.
Shemp
RV-6A, N915JD
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Bryan" <rv6flyer(at)improvementteam.com>
Subject: RV-List: Auto Pilots and servos
>
>
> Hello Listers,
>
> I have deliberately decided to wait on posting this message until I felt I
> could start to actually think about it more. I intend to have an auto
pilot
> in my RV-6 including altitude hold but wanted to wait until I flew the
> airplane and was ready to have the benefit of the extra money. I did put
> quite a bit in my panel now and it is *supposed* to be wired for an S-tec
30
> However, I don't really know what that means or if it truely is. I had
> installed a DG with a heading bug for this purpose as well. Not usefull
> without the auto pilot.
>
> My panel includes the full Appollo Slimline stack (Yes I know sadley is
now
> Garmin and somewhat obsolete). You can see it at http://www
> bryantechnology.com/family/rv6/rv6.htm or in the top left corner and just
> inside of your chief aircraft catalog.
>
> Now the questions: There has been lots of talk regarding all the options
of
> autopilots and very little regarding the S-tec. I can presume probably
due
> to the cost. I have not installed any servos or anything and probably
won't
> until after I fly (This Year!) Is there some concensus on using any
> specific auto pilot rather than s-tec? Is this strictly a cost issue or
are
> there other reasons? I definately want Alt. Hold. I don't have room in
my
> panel to add other than to hopefully just replace the TC. (as planned)
>
> Also, I have heard about the servos being somewhat interchangeable as well
> between Navaid, etc. What are the limitations here? Should I absolutely
> add some wire or changes to what I have done to accomodate adding an
> autopilot later?
>
> Don't mean to blast questions, but had postponed to prevent the feature
> creep but now I am getting close to moving to the airport and don't want
to
> overlook any thing I absolutely should do now.
>
> Thanks for any help
> Tim Bryan
> RV-6 N616TB
> In the making since February of 1990
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Auto Pilots and servos |
Trim sensing not required.
Tru track is designed with rvs in mind. Very simple install.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Bryan" <rv6flyer(at)improvementteam.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Auto Pilots and servos
>
> Thanks Sam and others. I have a couple of questions.
>
> The EZPilot (II) has a built in course for setting a track. Does this
mean
> the heading bug would not be a factor?
>
> Do I recall others to say they prefer the LCD display with out canopies?
>
> With the Altrak is the Trim Sensing (TS) a worthwhile add on?
>
> Where can I confirm the data stream from my GPS (GX60) is compatible?
>
> Seems I heard about some kits for specific install in RV's. Is this so
with
> either of these?
>
> Thanks
> Tim
> -------Original Message-------
>
> From: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: 08/12/04 15:11:30
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Auto Pilots and servos
>
>
> Tim Bryan wrote:
>
> > Now the questions: There has been lots of talk regarding all the
options
> of
> > autopilots and very little regarding the S-tec. I can presume probably
> due
> > to the cost. I have not installed any servos or anything and probably
won
> t
> > until after I fly (This Year!) Is there some concensus on using any
> > specific auto pilot rather than s-tec? Is this strictly a cost issue or
> are
> > there other reasons? I definately want Alt. Hold. I don't have room in
> my
> > panel to add other than to hopefully just replace the TC. (as planned)
>
> Tim,
>
> The Navaid, EZ-Pilot, and TruTrak autopilots each can be installed in
> lieu of a turn coordinator. TruTrak offers autopilots with altitude hold
> or you can go with the feature-packed EZ-Pilot and add the AlTrak from
> TruTrak. The AlTrak only requires one hole in the panel for the switch.
>
> Scroll down this page to see the EZ-Pilot and AlTrak in the panel of my
> RV-6:
>
> http://thervjournal.com
>
> >
> > Also, I have heard about the servos being somewhat interchangeable as
well
> > between Navaid, etc. What are the limitations here? Should I
absolutely
> > add some wire or changes to what I have done to accomodate adding an
> > autopilot later?
>
> You can add the autopilot later without much additional work. The servos
> are often added to flying aircraft and the wiring requirements are
> minimal. All you will need from your avionics is a NMEA data feed which
> is one wire unless you also slave the autopilot to a VOR/ILS receiver.
>
> You will find an autopilot will quickly become one of your favorite
> devices in the panel of your RV. There is a ton of info in the list
> archives on the various autopilot systems, and most manufacturer's
> websites have installation/user manuals you can download.
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Emergency Parachutes |
I'm starting to do some formation flying and would like to purchase a
parachute. It seems that Strong, National, and Softie are the preferred
brands.
I'm interested in anyone's opinions about any of the brands as well as on
the various models they offer.
I'm really interested in the seat vs. back pack tradeoffs. It seems to me
that with the seat pack works well in the RV-4. But I say this having tried
neither in my plane.
I'm also curious about if anyone has used or knows about the RV-4 specific
pack that Strong makes. It fits between the seat back and the spar.
Thanks for all of your help.
Don Mei
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Weyant" <cweyant(at)chuckdirect.com> |
Van's is not taking orders for the:
SIRS Compass/Unlit Northern Hemisphere
Part Number IF NV2A S.I.R.S.
Price $189.95
Temporarily Out of Stock. We are not taking orders for this item at this time.
Anyone know where to order same at or near Van's price? Or does anyone have
a compass that mounts on the windshield slider support post for sale?
Thanks,
Chuck
RV9A SLO Build (In the paint shop for three weeks --- then we go flying!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
"'owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com '"(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | 46 States in 36 Days - Trip Stats |
For those of you more technically interested nuts, the following are the
stats my PC has calculated for this trip.
Fuel Costs were $1567.52 which included 532.6 gallons of fuel and 3 quarts
of oil for an average cost per gallon of $2.94.
The trip total mileage including some rides was 9011nm with the actual
travel distance being 8447nm, for a whopping 16.9 nm/gl or 19.5 sm/gl.
General expenses including some supplies shopping, tie down fees, a few
night's hangar fees and a hotel/car for a night in Rhode Island were
$971.08.
So the trip costs were $2538 plus a few incidentals that I may not have
accounted for.
Not bad until one starts to factor in the equipment costs....
;{)
All that said I would in particular like to thank the guys from Trio
Avionics, from Dynon Avionics and from Garmin Avionics as I owe my ass, and
the knowledge of where that ass was located and the attitude of that ass at
all times during the trip, to their exceptional technology.
I would also like to thank the AnywhereMap folks as their unit worked great
until the cigarette adaptor failed because the spring inside it started
shorting internally and blowing fuses. (I have since fixed this but would
recommend to them that this part of the unit is designed poorly) Although
this unit is primarily a backup unit it was very nice having current TFR
data on screen, particularly during a campaign year.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Emergency Parachutes |
0.2 FROM_HAS_ULINE_NUMS From: contains an underline and numbers/letters
Donald -
I'm breaking my own rule here of replying to an airplane-specific question
when I don't have the type you have, but think it's OK in this case.
I've got an -8 and use a seat pack. It's 3-4" thick, fits in the "seat pan"
nicely and has a ~1" foam back pad. Works very well with my -8. Sorry -
never worn a chute in a -4, but I believe the fit would be comparable, aside
from the reduced elbow room already (not) there. I have a backpack that my
pax wear but it puts me too close to the panel in the front seat.
Can't remember the brand of my seat pack - bought it used from a rigger 4-5
yrs ago. The backpack is USAF surplus and only works with very light, thin
people (making it pretty much useless).
Bryan Jones -8
www.LoneStarSquadron.com
Houston, Texas
>I'm starting to do some formation flying and would like to purchase a
>parachute. It seems that Strong, National, and Softie are the preferred
>brands.
>
>I'm interested in anyone's opinions about any of the brands as well as on
>the various models they offer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stan & Eilene" <stan(at)vangrunsven.us> |
Two days ago we stopped getting the RV-List. We have Norton that keeps our computer
cleaned up from viruses, but every so often we get dropped from your list.
Please.....
Resubscribe. Thanks!
Stan VanGrunsven
stan(at)vangrunsven.us
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Emergency Parachutes |
I have a Softie, backpack style. It pushes me way too close forward and I
rarely wear it in my RV-4. I like the parachute, seems to be of very good
quality, but I should have purchased the seat pack. Unfortunately when I spoke
with them at SNF and purchased it, they said 'all the RV guys are wearing the
backpack style.' Stupid me listened to them..... I figured I'd hang on to
it for my first flight in the -10. I should have plenty of room for it in
there! Unless someone wanted to buy it now.....
-Mike Kraus
N223RV RV-4 Flying
N213RV RV-10 Empennage/Tailcone complete, starting on wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Emergency Parachutes |
>I have a Softie, backpack style. It pushes me way too close forward and I
>rarely wear it in my RV-4. I like the parachute, seems to be of very good
>quality, but I should have purchased the seat pack. Unfortunately when I
>spoke
>with them at SNF and purchased it, they said 'all the RV guys are wearing
>the
>backpack style.' Stupid me listened to them..... I figured I'd hang on
>to
>it for my first flight in the -10. I should have plenty of room for it in
>there! Unless someone wanted to buy it now.....
>
>-Mike Kraus
>N223RV RV-4 Flying
>N213RV RV-10 Empennage/Tailcone complete, starting on wings
Same issue here! Also bought a softie backpack, even built to match my
airplane in teal, gold and black. Wore it for test phase and acro, and now
that I'm not doing acro and well past test phase, I don't need it! First
flight of RV10 is years away and I plan to just borrow one from the local
acro nuts when I need it.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
Check out Election 2004 for up-to-date election news, plus voter tools and
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Emergency Parachutes |
How come no more acro?
>
>
> >I have a Softie, backpack style. It pushes me way too close forward and I
> >rarely wear it in my RV-4. I like the parachute, seems to be of very good
> >quality, but I should have purchased the seat pack. Unfortunately when I
> >spoke
> >with them at SNF and purchased it, they said 'all the RV guys are wearing
> >the
> >backpack style.' Stupid me listened to them..... I figured I'd hang on
> >to
> >it for my first flight in the -10. I should have plenty of room for it in
> >there! Unless someone wanted to buy it now.....
> >
> >-Mike Kraus
> >N223RV RV-4 Flying
> >N213RV RV-10 Empennage/Tailcone complete, starting on wings
>
>Same issue here! Also bought a softie backpack, even built to match my
>airplane in teal, gold and black. Wore it for test phase and acro, and now
>that I'm not doing acro and well past test phase, I don't need it! First
>flight of RV10 is years away and I plan to just borrow one from the local
>acro nuts when I need it.
>
>Brian Denk
>RV8 N94BD
>RV10 '51
>
>Check out Election 2004 for up-to-date election news, plus voter tools and
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: compass wanted |
Chuck:
Aircraft Spruce carries the same compass. Not certain if they too are out
of stock, but might be worth a try. Last I checked their price was the same
as Van's.
Keep us posted if they have them in stock.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P (reserved)
firewall forward
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck Weyant" <cweyant(at)chuckdirect.com>
Subject: RV-List: compass wanted
>
> Van's is not taking orders for the:
> SIRS Compass/Unlit Northern Hemisphere
> Part Number IF NV2A S.I.R.S.
> Price $189.95
> Temporarily Out of Stock. We are not taking orders for this item at this
time.
>
> Anyone know where to order same at or near Van's price? Or does anyone
have
> a compass that mounts on the windshield slider support post for sale?
> Thanks,
> Chuck
> RV9A SLO Build (In the paint shop for three weeks --- then we go flying!)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6160hp(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Sept 11, 2004 -RV Forum, 10th Annual Oswego CO, KFZY |
Mark your calendars and plan to attend.
September 10, 2004 Friday night fly in, cook out and camp out. The EAA 486
General meeting is that night too.
September 11, 2004 Saturday more fly ins, + technical seminars all day,
meals provided to paid attendee's. Due to insurance all I can say is you tap a
pilot for a ride...there are many who are generous there. Then a nice dinner
banquet with a presentation for an evening wrap up!
September 12, 2004 Sunday AM our great pancake breakfast and perhaps a
coordinated fly out for lunch, planes, weather and pilots willing.
See us at _www.eaachapter486.com_ (http://www.eaachapter486.com) See the RV
forum website for registration information.
RV pilots get it all for one dollar.
VFR years have seen over 56 RV's and 25 SPAM's fly in with over 150
attendee's.
Again Mike Seager and the new factory RV7 will be doing instruction and
manufacturers like Lycoming and many others have attended, and/or they do send
goodies.
I could go on...but you get the picture...just ask someone who has been
there the $45 is easily worth it. Hope to See you all there.
Respectfully,
David McManmon
Past-President
EAA 486
RV6 Flying, Builder, Pilot N58DM
DNA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 46 States in 36 Days - Trip Stats |
| From: | tacaruth(at)ralcorp.com |
08/13/2004 04:02:32 PM
I'd like to tell you congratulations on your trip but........oh well, you
know
Wheeler North
To
Sent by: "'RV-List Digest Server '"
owner-rv-list-ser ,
ver(at)matronics.com "'owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.co
m '"@matronics.com
cc
08/13/2004 01:37
PM Subject
RV-List: 46 States in 36 Days -
Trip Stats
Please respond to
rv-list@matronics
.com
For those of you more technically interested nuts, the following are the
stats my PC has calculated for this trip.
Fuel Costs were $1567.52 which included 532.6 gallons of fuel and 3 quarts
of oil for an average cost per gallon of $2.94.
The trip total mileage including some rides was 9011nm with the actual
travel distance being 8447nm, for a whopping 16.9 nm/gl or 19.5 sm/gl.
General expenses including some supplies shopping, tie down fees, a few
night's hangar fees and a hotel/car for a night in Rhode Island were
$971.08.
So the trip costs were $2538 plus a few incidentals that I may not have
accounted for.
Not bad until one starts to factor in the equipment costs....
;{)
All that said I would in particular like to thank the guys from Trio
Avionics, from Dynon Avionics and from Garmin Avionics as I owe my ass, and
the knowledge of where that ass was located and the attitude of that ass at
all times during the trip, to their exceptional technology.
I would also like to thank the AnywhereMap folks as their unit worked great
until the cigarette adaptor failed because the spring inside it started
shorting internally and blowing fuses. (I have since fixed this but would
recommend to them that this part of the unit is designed poorly) Although
this unit is primarily a backup unit it was very nice having current TFR
data on screen, particularly during a campaign year.
W
If you are not the intended addressee indicated in this message (or
responsible for delivery of the message to such person), you may not copy
message and kindly notify the sender by reply email. Please advise
immediately if you or your employer do not consent to internet email for
messages of this kind.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Emergency Parachutes |
>
>
>How come no more acro?
>
>
Perhaps I should clarify. I'm no longer going out and flying sequence
acro...in the local box. An occasional 1 G roll while enroute somewhere to
shake the dust loose but that's about it. I'm not flying enough anymore to
stay truly acro safe and frankly my stomach just can't handle it either!
The older I get, the more I like the gentle pleasures in life. Must be why
the RV10 is so appealing to me. Can outfit it with all the comforts of
home....stereo, wet bar, sauna, bidet....
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sept 11, 2004 -RV Forum, 10th Annual Oswego CO, |
KFZY
Geez, really started to get excited about this......until I realized it is
on the other side of the universe! But hey you are near Watkins Glenn,
wonder whats going on there. I thought Oswego CO, was Oswego Colorado! What
really caught my eye was the camping, that GREATLY reduces the cost of a
trip, no rental car no hotel.
>
>
>Mark your calendars and plan to attend.
>
>September 10, 2004 Friday night fly in, cook out and camp out. The EAA 486
>General meeting is that night too.
>
>September 11, 2004 Saturday more fly ins, + technical seminars all day,
>meals provided to paid attendee's. Due to insurance all I can say is you
>tap a
>pilot for a ride...there are many who are generous there. Then a nice dinner
>banquet with a presentation for an evening wrap up!
>
>September 12, 2004 Sunday AM our great pancake breakfast and perhaps a
>coordinated fly out for lunch, planes, weather and pilots willing.
>
>See us at _www.eaachapter486.com_ (http://www.eaachapter486.com) See the RV
>forum website for registration information.
>
>RV pilots get it all for one dollar.
>
>VFR years have seen over 56 RV's and 25 SPAM's fly in with over 150
>attendee's.
>
>Again Mike Seager and the new factory RV7 will be doing instruction and
>manufacturers like Lycoming and many others have attended, and/or they
>do send
>goodies.
>
>I could go on...but you get the picture...just ask someone who has been
>there the $45 is easily worth it. Hope to See you all there.
>
>Respectfully,
>David McManmon
>Past-President
>EAA 486
>RV6 Flying, Builder, Pilot N58DM
>DNA
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Compton" <thecomptons(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Emergency Parachutes |
----- Original Message -----
From: <N223RV(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Emergency Parachutes
>
> I have a Softie, backpack style. It pushes me way too close forward and
I
> rarely wear it in my RV-4.
I wear a Softie backpack in my RV-3. It fits nicely in the seatback "pan."
Since it does not compress like a cushion, it does sit me a bit closer to
the panel, but not excessively or uncomfortably so. I easily have full
throw of all controls, and perhaps a bit more so with the rudders when
compared to the rudder throw when the back cushion is in place.
Randy Compton
RV-3 N148CW (recently sold)
Gulf Breeze, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6160hp(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Sept 11, 2004 -RV Forum, 10th Annual Oswego CO, KFZY |
Yes near Watkins Glen....20 minutes in an RV...sorry for the CO instead of
CO.
It is worth the effort...Mike Seager and Bill Benedict (rest his soul) make
the treck for this. Van him self has been there too in the past.....(helped
that his daughter went to Ithaca College) any how see the webiste onthe
aformentioned visits....
Regards
David aka Flapjack2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Emergency Parachutes |
Jaye and Scott Jackson wrote:
>
> Although I fly an RV-6, I have two chutes.
Scott, what is your plan for dealing with the RV-6 canopy if you decide
you need to exit the plane while airborne?
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
| Subject: | Emergency Parachutes |
I've been carrying a chute in the back seat of my truck since OSH. A friend
of a friend was selling two of them but only moved one at OSH. If you're
interested, I'll put you in touch with him. I think he wanted about $800 or
so for it. To my untrained eye, it looked to be in great condition. I just
took it out of my truck today so I know it's still avaliable.
Mike Nellis
RV-6 Fuselage N699BM
1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K
http://bmnellis.com
*** -----Original Message-----
*** From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
*** [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Donald Mei
*** Sent: Friday, August 13, 2004 12:01 PM
*** To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
*** Subject: RV-List: Emergency Parachutes
***
***
***
***
*** I'm starting to do some formation flying and would like to
*** purchase a
*** parachute. It seems that Strong, National, and Softie are
*** the preferred
*** brands.
***
*** I'm interested in anyone's opinions about any of the brands
*** as well as on
*** the various models they offer.
***
*** I'm really interested in the seat vs. back pack tradeoffs.
*** It seems to me
*** that with the seat pack works well in the RV-4. But I say
*** this having tried
*** neither in my plane.
***
*** I'm also curious about if anyone has used or knows about
*** the RV-4 specific
*** pack that Strong makes. It fits between the seat back and the spar.
***
*** Thanks for all of your help.
***
*** Don Mei
***
***
*** =============
*** Matronics Forums.
*** =============
*** =============
*** =============
***
***
***
***
***
***
***
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob 1" <rv3a(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rocket Lands Safely On Highway in Georgia |
> So, what do you do if you're a long way from home, low and fuel and lost
in
> MVFR/IMC? Well, land on a highway, of course. Good to see that he walked
> away with very little damage to his plane. The write-up is also pretty
good
> and doesn't take the usual media approach of representing GA as a disaster
> waiting to happen.
============================================
Of course????
I've got thousands of hours landing on roads from my crop dusting days.
It can be very dangerous and hazardous to your health if you are a novice.
Light poles, mail boxes, guy wires, highway signs, power lines, stop signs,
vehicles on the highway are just a few things that can ruin your day or
life.
IMO....
Anybody getting lost in the GPS world of today would probably botch
a highway landing too... while putting highway folks at risk in the process.
Patrick Swayze got lucky with his highway landing,
however his aircraft did not fair quite as well.
Plane Crash Involving Actor Patrick Swayze
On 1 June 2000, actor Patrick Swayze escaped injury after he made an
emergency landing in a housing development in Prescott Valley, AZ. He had
been en route from Van Nuys, CA to Las Vegas, NM when his aircraft
apparently had a pressurization problem at about 13,000 feet. The following
synopsis is taken from the NTSB report on the accident.
NTSB Identification: LAX00FA213
Date:1 June 2000
Location: Prescott Valley, AZ
Aircraft: Cessna 414A, registration: N414PS
Just prior to touchdown, the right wing of the aircraft struck a
streetlight, losing about a 4-foot outboard section of the right wing. The
aircraft then touched down, bounced, and touched down again, crossing an
intersection, striking a stop sign and another streetlight. The aircraft
then began veering right off the paved portion of the roadway, striking an
electrical utility box with outboard section of the extended left flap. The
aircraft came to a stop, facing south, about 200 yards from the impact
point.
Here's another collision with a light pole in VFR...
NTSB Identification: CHI04LA203
14 CFR Part 91: General Aviation
Accident occurred Sunday, August 01, 2004 in Madison, WI
Aircraft: Knoepflein Lancair 2000, registration: N98SN
Injuries: 1 Fatal.
This is preliminary information, subject to change, and may contain errors.
Any errors in this report will be corrected when the final report has been
completed.
On August 1, 2004, at 1850 central daylight time, a Lancair 2000, N98SN,
collided with a light post and the terrain during an off airport landing in
Madison, Wisconsin, following a reported loss of engine power. The private
pilot was fatally injured. The airplane was destroyed. The 14 CFR Part 91
personal flight was operating in visual meteorological conditions. The pilot
had filed an instrument flight rules flight plan, but it had not been
activated at the time of the accident. The flight originated from Oshkosh,
Wisconsin, about 1820, and was en route to Lebanon, Kentucky.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV-List Digest: 41 Msgs - 08/13/04 |
Hi Don-
I used to jump, and still have friends in the community. One is a rigger I
used to jump with and who's judgement I trust completely. He had
recommended that a friend and I stay away from Strong due to his concerns
about apparent QC issues that have developed there. He did emphatically
recommend a National canopy in a Softie container. I was still building,
so I didn't buy rigs at that moment, but my buddy did.
Right at 2 years ago (Aug 10, 2002) my buddy found himself departing a
crippled Eagle II that was travelling essentially vertically at about 400'.
He's fine, the Eagle is landfill. (For the full story, see the annual
safety issue of Sport Aerobatics, May 2003). There was a lot of luck
involved in this event, both good and bad, but his canopy only had time to
open to about 5 feet in diameter before impact. That was the configuration
it was in as it lay atop the bean field. The drag of the pilot chute is
what actually extracted him from the cockpit. The deceleration and
reliability required to pull this off are fantastic!
Guess what brand of rigs I bought?
BTW, you know you have a conscientious rigger when they make you put your
rig on and pull the ripcord for real when you drop your rig off for your
regular repack cycle. Better still is a person who'll inspect and repack
it right before your very eyes.
Whatever rig you buy, know how to inspect it, know how to use it, and keep
up the inspection / repack cycle. After all, what good is an insurance
policy that you don't pay the premiums on?
Am I biased? You betcha! Remember, one of the few things worse than being
in an airplane and thinking 'now what do I do?' is being just outside the
airplane thinking 'now what do I do?'.
Glen
>
> From: "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Emergency Parachutes
>
>
> I'm starting to do some formation flying and would like to purchase a
> parachute. It seems that Strong, National, and Softie are the preferred
> brands.
>
> I'm interested in anyone's opinions about any of the brands as well as on
> the various models they offer.
>
> I'm really interested in the seat vs. back pack tradeoffs. It seems to
me
> that with the seat pack works well in the RV-4. But I say this having
tried
> neither in my plane.
>
> I'm also curious about if anyone has used or knows about the RV-4
specific
> pack that Strong makes. It fits between the seat back and the spar.
>
> Thanks for all of your help.
>
> Don Mei
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Emergency Parachutes |
Hi All-
Sorry for the re-post, but I blew the subject line on my first note!
> [Original Message]
> From: Glen Matejcek <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
> To:
> Date: 8/14/2004 7:43:54 AM
> Subject: RE: RV-List Digest: 41 Msgs - 08/13/04
>
> Hi Don-
>
> I used to jump, and still have friends in the community. One is a rigger
I used to jump with and who's judgement I trust completely. He had
recommended that a friend and I stay away from Strong due to his concerns
about apparent QC issues that have developed there. He did emphatically
recommend a National canopy in a Softie container. I was still building,
so I didn't buy rigs at that moment, but my buddy did.
>
> Right at 2 years ago (Aug 10, 2002) my buddy found himself departing a
crippled Eagle II that was travelling essentially vertically at about 400'.
He's fine, the Eagle is landfill. (For the full story, see the annual
safety issue of Sport Aerobatics, May 2003). There was a lot of luck
involved in this event, both good and bad, but his canopy only had time to
open to about 5 feet in diameter before impact. That was the configuration
it was in as it lay atop the bean field. The drag of the pilot chute is
what actually extracted him from the cockpit. The deceleration and
reliability required to pull this off are fantastic!
>
> Guess what brand of rigs I bought?
>
> BTW, you know you have a conscientious rigger when they make you put your
rig on and pull the ripcord for real when you drop your rig off for your
regular repack cycle. Better still is a person who'll inspect and repack
it right before your very eyes.
>
> Whatever rig you buy, know how to inspect it, know how to use it, and
keep up the inspection / repack cycle. After all, what good is an
insurance policy that you don't pay the premiums on?
>
> Am I biased? You betcha! Remember, one of the few things worse than
being in an airplane and thinking 'now what do I do?' is being just outside
the airplane thinking 'now what do I do?'.
>
> Glen
>
> >
> > From: "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com>
> > Subject: RV-List: Emergency Parachutes
> >
> >
> >
> > I'm starting to do some formation flying and would like to purchase a
> > parachute. It seems that Strong, National, and Softie are the
preferred
> > brands.
> >
> > I'm interested in anyone's opinions about any of the brands as well as
on
> > the various models they offer.
> >
> > I'm really interested in the seat vs. back pack tradeoffs. It seems to
me
> > that with the seat pack works well in the RV-4. But I say this having
tried
> > neither in my plane.
> >
> > I'm also curious about if anyone has used or knows about the RV-4
specific
> > pack that Strong makes. It fits between the seat back and the spar.
> >
> > Thanks for all of your help.
> >
> > Don Mei
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Emergency Parachutes |
Mike
Does your truck have a sun roof? How do you plan to exit the truck in an
emergency?? :-)
Charlie Kuss
definitely do not achieve
>
>I've been carrying a chute in the back seat of my truck since OSH. A friend
>of a friend was selling two of them but only moved one at OSH. If you're
>interested, I'll put you in touch with him. I think he wanted about $800 or
>so for it. To my untrained eye, it looked to be in great condition. I just
>took it out of my truck today so I know it's still avaliable.
>
>Mike Nellis
>RV-6 Fuselage N699BM
>1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K
>http://bmnellis.com
>
>*** -----Original Message-----
>*** From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>*** [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Donald Mei
>*** Sent: Friday, August 13, 2004 12:01 PM
>*** To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>*** Subject: RV-List: Emergency Parachutes
>***
>***
>***
>***
>*** I'm starting to do some formation flying and would like to
>*** purchase a
>*** parachute. It seems that Strong, National, and Softie are
>*** the preferred
>*** brands.
>***
>*** I'm interested in anyone's opinions about any of the brands
>*** as well as on
>*** the various models they offer.
>***
>*** I'm really interested in the seat vs. back pack tradeoffs.
>*** It seems to me
>*** that with the seat pack works well in the RV-4. But I say
>*** this having tried
>*** neither in my plane.
>***
>*** I'm also curious about if anyone has used or knows about
>*** the RV-4 specific
>*** pack that Strong makes. It fits between the seat back and the spar.
>***
>*** Thanks for all of your help.
>***
>*** Don Mei
>***
>***
>*** =============
>*** Matronics Forums.
>*** =============
>*** =============
>*** =============
>***
>***
>***
>***
>***
>***
>***
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)warpdriveonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: RV-List Digest: 41 Msgs - 08/13/04 |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: RE: RV-List Digest: 41 Msgs - 08/13/04
>
>
> BTW, you know you have a conscientious rigger when they make you put your
> rig on and pull the ripcord for real when you drop your rig off for your
> regular repack cycle. Better still is a person who'll inspect and repack
> it right before your very eyes.
>
Lots of good points Glen. I am not well informed on parachutes but would
like to point out there are different opinions on the repack while you wait
deal. I would dearly love to do this as each trip to my rigger is over 300
miles round trip. He insists on opening and airing the parachute (can't
remember how long, but too long to wait). I have a high opinion of this guy
so comply with his wishes and do the 600 miles of traveling. I know other
riggers who do not require this and who would be more convenient for me.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://n5lp.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Jurotich <mjurotich(at)hst.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: Matco Parking brake Lock-up |
The number of times I have parked on sloping ground could be counted on one
hand, but the few time when as single pilot my only was to go elsewhere
says a parking brake is very useful.
Matthew M. Jurotich
NASA/Goddard Space Flight Center
JWST ISIM Systems Engineer
m/c : 443
e-mail mailto: mjurotich(at)hst.nasa.gov
phone : 301-286-5919
fax : 301-286-7021
JWST URL: <http://ngst1.gsfc.nasa.gov>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Emergency Parachutes |
Sam:
As per the writeup on the WWWing webpage, I replaced the hardware that
holds the front of the canopy frame to the track rollers with quick release
hitch pins of the same diameter. These are also known as tractor pins in
farm supply stores.
I figured I could unlatch the canopy, pull these two pins, slide it enough
to have the overhead latching arm clear the rollover frame, then provide
just enough of a lift at the front to get the airflow underneath, instead of
having the airflow on the top pushing the canopy forward and downwards,
which it apparently does.
If anyone has done it before, and found the effort of raising the canopy a
couple of inches too great, I'm playing with the idea of two lever-operated
cams, that would pull aft and down, acting upon the canopy track, to provide
the necessary force.
Safer than, but not as much bang as, det. cord glued to the canopy around
the edges, which would surely work.
Scott in Vancouver
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Emergency Parachutes
>
> Jaye and Scott Jackson wrote:
>
> >
> > Although I fly an RV-6, I have two chutes.
>
>
>
> Scott, what is your plan for dealing with the RV-6 canopy if you decide
> you need to exit the plane while airborne?
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
| Subject: | Emergency Parachutes |
Remember our motto. "There's no problem in the world that can't be
solved with enough explosives".
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jaye and Scott
Jackson
Subject: Re: RV-List: Emergency Parachutes
Sam:
As per the writeup on the WWWing webpage, I replaced the hardware that
holds the front of the canopy frame to the track rollers with quick
release
hitch pins of the same diameter. These are also known as tractor pins in
farm supply stores.
I figured I could unlatch the canopy, pull these two pins, slide it
enough
to have the overhead latching arm clear the rollover frame, then provide
just enough of a lift at the front to get the airflow underneath,
instead of
having the airflow on the top pushing the canopy forward and downwards,
which it apparently does.
If anyone has done it before, and found the effort of raising the
canopy a
couple of inches too great, I'm playing with the idea of two
lever-operated
cams, that would pull aft and down, acting upon the canopy track, to
provide
the necessary force.
Safer than, but not as much bang as, det. cord glued to the canopy
around
the edges, which would surely work.
Scott in Vancouver
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Emergency Parachutes
>
> Jaye and Scott Jackson wrote:
>
> >
> > Although I fly an RV-6, I have two chutes.
>
>
>
> Scott, what is your plan for dealing with the RV-6 canopy if you
decide
> you need to exit the plane while airborne?
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
>
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dale Walker <davawalker(at)nwboronet.com> |
>
>Dave, I might be interested in your RV-7 project. Please email me the details
>( location, askiing price, etc.)
>
>Thanks, Walt Shipley RV-8A N314TS
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dcw(at)nomadwi.com> |
| Subject: | TruTrak static line |
Greetings all:
I am in the process of installing a TruTrak DigiFlight IIVS with altitude
hold in my RV-4. I have Van's standard static installation (2 ports on each
side of the aft fuselage) on this aircraft.
The instructions call for tapping into the static line to provide static
pressure for the Tru Trak. They caution that an inadequate static line
volume may cause the A/P to hunt in altitude hold. My static installation
runs to the altimeter, A/S, and encoder. If I also tap off to the TruTrak I
may have this "hunting" problem. One solution is to just vent the Tru Trak
to cabin pressure which will work I understand (except for the altitude
variation when you open and close cabin heat or air) or run a separate
static line T-ed off the line at the static ports.
Has anyone had a problem with "hunting" T-ing the static line right at the
altimeter to the Tru Trak??
Thanks
Doug Weiler
RV-4 - still in paint shop
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Remove Wing from Stand? |
| From: | "" <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com> |
All,
Quick question...if I have completed the leading edges and installed the top skins
on both wings, is it safe to get rid of the wing stand (will I need it for
anything else)? I have the first wing in the cradle, and it looks like I can
do the bottom skins fine with it in the cradle. Is there any other reason I
would need the stand (flap stuff, aileron stuff, etc.)?
I am trying to clear some space in the relatively cramped garage.
THanks,
Scott
7A Wings
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: TruTrak static line |
Doug,
I have this same autopilot on the -7 that I just built. It has Van's
standard static ports on the fuselage sides that feed two Dynons, an
altimeter, airspeed, a micro encoder and the autopilot. You would think
this is about the worst case scenario, but altitude hold is rock solid.
Hope this helps.
Pat
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Weiler" <dcw(at)nomadwi.com>
Subject: RV-List: TruTrak static line
>
> Greetings all:
>
> I am in the process of installing a TruTrak DigiFlight IIVS with altitude
> hold in my RV-4. I have Van's standard static installation (2 ports on
each
> side of the aft fuselage) on this aircraft.
>
> The instructions call for tapping into the static line to provide static
> pressure for the Tru Trak. They caution that an inadequate static line
> volume may cause the A/P to hunt in altitude hold. My static installation
> runs to the altimeter, A/S, and encoder. If I also tap off to the TruTrak
I
> may have this "hunting" problem. One solution is to just vent the Tru
Trak
> to cabin pressure which will work I understand (except for the altitude
> variation when you open and close cabin heat or air) or run a separate
> static line T-ed off the line at the static ports.
>
> Has anyone had a problem with "hunting" T-ing the static line right at the
> altimeter to the Tru Trak??
>
> Thanks
>
> Doug Weiler
> RV-4 - still in paint shop
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
While we're all busy feeling good about the reasonable article, I'm afraid
we've lost sight of another equally important issue.
Sometimes when someone goes down, we shake our head and think "that could've
been me". Other times we think to ourselves "stupid idiot, I wonder how
long he's been tempting fate".
I'm afraid that (based on this very preliminary info) this person appears to
fall into the second category. Performing a very skillful landing is NO NO
NO consolation for excercising what appears (granted, facts may not be
correct at this point) to be very poor judgement.
Snip
The 46-year-old Rodman flew out of Ft. Lauderdale at 6:30 Wednesday morning.
He was scheduled to refuel in Dawson. But low on fuel and lost because of
the fog and light rain, decided to set down on the highway.
snip
so he took off in mvfr/ifr weather destined for a foggy airport without
appropriate nav equipment to find the airport. It sounds to me like someone
had a bit of get-home-itis and decided to scud run.
I don't care if he is an expert pilot with 17 ratings and endorsements.
snip
"He started noticing a lot of towers buzzing by his window. Based on that
and the low visibility he decided to go ahead and land on the highway rather
than have an accident."
snip
hmm. so while scud running, he decided it was a bit too low when he was
towers going by. because of his poor judgement, he put innocent motorists
at risk also.
With rights, come responsibilities. Our responsibility is to not put
passengers and people on the ground at risk.
Whats that old saying "my excellent judgement precludes me from having to
demonstrate my exceptional skill"
Don
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Lineberry" <glineberry(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Performance Engines |
Has anyone had dealings with Performance Engines in La Verne, California?
How would you rate their products and service?
Thanks,
Gary Lineberry
RV-8 QB
N48GG reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
OK,
I'm hearing some strange things about fuel pumps and RSA servos.
First, the bypass in all engine driven pumps is because the law says the
failure of such a device may not be the cause of a fuel stoppage, so the
bypass allows a boost pump or gravity to bypass the engine pump.
The reason to turn on the boost pump right after switching tanks is to
ensure that one still has a good rate of flow. My pressure gauge will rise
at a certain rate when the pump is turned on. If it doesn't do that after
switching tanks then I go back to the old one and land ASAP.
I've only had this happen once and it was due to sloshing compound
delaminating in another brand of aircraft.
Cavitation in the diaphragm types pumps used on most lycomings is not
possible unless the springs driving the check valves are failed. Vaporized
fuel will not pump well on any type of pump but it will move through a
diaphragm pump at a very low rate. In any event, turning on a boost pump
will make the vapor turn back into liquid as the pressure rises above the
vapor pressure of the fuel. Even if a diaphragm pump could cavitate there
would be nothing to cavitate once the boost pressure goes up.
If turning a boost pump on causes an RSA injected engine to change its
operating characteristics from good to bad then there is a problem with the
servo. I start teaching this class again in about two weeks for the
umpteenth time and will be happy to enroll anyone who wants to come to San
Diego and take it.
The most common failure in fuel injection systems is contamination. That is
always the first thing I check for signs of once I am certain there are no
profuse leaks, loose or misadjusted stuff, unattached wide angle thunder
bearings, etc. The diaphram that controls the servo outlet poppet valve is a
fuel pressure regulating device that is balanced by delta p from metered
fuel pressure and unmetered fuel inlet pressure. It is then unbalenced by a
second diaphram which has delta P across it from venturi vs impact pressure.
Any change in inlet fuel pressure causes the poppet valve diaphragm to
compensate.
If the servo poppet valve was being bypassed due to an internal housing
crack or the poppet valve seat was loose that might explain the symptoms.
The only other possibility that I can think of is if the poppet valve shaft
seal between the venturi/impact chambers and the fuel chambers was allowing
false fuel into the venturi side to which mixture settings were compensating
for, then changes in inlet pressure would effect the rate of leakage.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
The matco park brake valves have two spring loaded poppet valves (one for
each side) that are pushed open by two cam lobes on a rotating shaft.
When the cams are pushed on them they are stuck open, when the cam is
rotated off they act like check valves and allow pressure to build up from
the master cyls but not return.
If the lever rotates too far it will cause the cam to come back off the
valves and reengage the parking brake.
If I remember correctly 90degs is too much lever travel, its more like 45
degs.
As stated in other posts, if the compensating valves in the master cylinders
don't open up at the top end of the MC piston travel this will also keep the
brakes on.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Todd Bartrim" <haywire(at)telus.net> |
OK, now this sheds some light on the subject. I had assumed that it was
a
simple on/off valve and unfortunately in it's installed location it is very
hard to closely inspect. This makes allot of sense and I believe I have mine
set up for a 90 degree arc of travel. I do remember that mine never came
with any info at all. Every time that I have this problem I check that the
lever is down and I try to reach down to push it that little extra, which is
apparently the wrong thing to do.
Thanks Wheeler!
Previous google searches failed to bring up Matco's web site, only vendor
sites, however a search for "Matco" only brought up Matco Mfg, which has
exactly the info required including an exploded view of the valve,
confirming Wheelers explanation. It can be seen at:
http://www.matcomfg.com/catalog/index.php?file=catalog&action=catalog_produc
tinfo&uid=2192&pi_id=61655&clist=0,59990,60741
Click on illustrated parts list.
It appears that they also recently increased the inlet hole spacing to allow
90 degree AN fittings (remember that little pain-in-the-a**?)
Thanks to all those that helped
Todd Bartrim
RV9Endurance
13B Turbo Rotary
C-FSTB
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
"The world will always have a place for those that bring hard
work and determination to the things they do."
The matco park brake valves have two spring loaded poppet valves (one for
each side) that are pushed open by two cam lobes on a rotating shaft.
When the cams are pushed on them they are stuck open, when the cam is
rotated off they act like check valves and allow pressure to build up from
the master cyls but not return.
If the lever rotates too far it will cause the cam to come back off the
valves and reengage the parking brake.
If I remember correctly 90degs is too much lever travel, its more like 45
degs.
As stated in other posts, if the compensating valves in the master cylinders
don't open up at the top end of the MC piston travel this will also keep the
brakes on.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: TruTrak static line |
I have the altitude hold in my RV-4. I do not have the static port
connected, it is just open to cabin pressure. It works awesome, and I have not
noticed any appreciable change when opening or closing vents or cabin heat.
From my experience, I'd just keep it simple and let it use cabin static.
-Mike Kraus
N223RV RV-4 Flying
N213RV RV-10 Empennage/Tailcone complete, starting on wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
It doesn't seem to matter how much experience we have we can still make some dumb
decisions. The following is one that I made a few years back. At the time I
had been flying commercially for some thirty odd years.
A friend and also a pilot asked me to ferry a DeHaviland single Otter that he had
purchased from US Army surplus from Denver Co to Calgary Alberta. The reason
he asked me was that he had no experience on this type of aircraft and knew
that I had flown them for several years.
He went with me to Denver and while the aircraft turned out to be in fairly good
condition there was no nav or radio equipment in it. This didn't pose a problem
as I had a portable VHF and some new WAC charts with me.
Our first leg was to be Denver to Billings Montana, about the limit for the Otter.
I had checked weather and there was a frontal system approaching Billings
from the north but Billings was forecast to stay VFR.
By the time we got out of Denver we would only have about an hour of daylight left
on arrival at Billings. Our track took us by Cheyenne and I suggested to my
friend that it would be a good idea to pull in and top up with fuel and take
another look at the Billings weather. The weather where we where was CAVU, he
said something to the effect " why would you want to do that, it is supposed
to be good". In my head I thought " well you own the airplane and I guess you
just became the captain even though he didn't change seats with me"
About fifty miles south of Billings we came to the edge of the front and descended
to stay underneath it, the ceiling kept getting lower and soon we were going
along at 500 ft or less to stay visual and at the same time getting low on
fuel and map reading with a WAC chart under these conditions isn't the easiest
thing to do.
Finally it got to point were I was having trouble maintaining visual reference
and the fuel situation as it was ruled out everything but getting this bird on
the ground. I turned to my friend and suggested that since he made the decision
to pass up Cheyenne that you are now the captain and you can take-over. With
this his face was getting a bit paler and hands were shaking and said that he
thought it would be better if I carried on.
About this time we crossed a narrow two lane paved road and I turned to follow
it. About a mile down the road we came to a big cattle feed lot with a good place
to turn of and park the plane. I circled back and lined up on the road, there
was a strong cross wind and the road had some small hills. I looked over to
my friend and told him this was it, with this he crossed himself and hung on
to the armrests with both hands. Well the Otter is noted for it's slow flight
characteristics but it is also a fairly good sized bird having a 2000 pound
payload. There wasn't much pavement left outside the wheel width and with the
big vertical fin and rudder the cross wind really presented a challenge. I wheeled
it on touching down on the left main and the left wing down enough to offset
the cross wind and fortunately it had good brakes so I was able to keep it
on the road as we lost flying speed. Using a lot of right brake was able to taxi
up to the feed lot and park it into wind. Needless to say their wasn't a whole
lot of conversation going on in the cockpit at this point.
We were 35 miles south and a bit east of Billings, the only damage was a couple
of rivets popped in the trailing edge of the left hand flap that hit a road sign
with the wing being down so low correcting for the cross wind. The feed lot
owner drove us into Billings to a hotel were we spent two days before the weather
cleared up. Rest of trip was uneventful and it stayed fairly quite in the
cockpit.
Eustace Bowhay
Do not Achieve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Performance Engines |
I have known the owner Ron Munson for the past 10 years back when he was at
Magnum Aircraft Engine in Ontario. I trust Ron with all my engine work. He
balanced, lapped and line bored the case, and assembled the bottom end of
my engine when he worked at Magnum Aircraft Engine. I purchased NEW (S/N:
8, 9, 10, and 11) Superior Millinum Cylinders from an oufit with the best
price. Took the new cylinders in the box to Ron on a Saturday. He and I
disassembled the brand new cylinders to verify all the measurements to "Blue
Print" the parts. We then reassembled everything. My cost was $75 for this
inpection and use of the tools in his shop. Since I am an A&P, I did the
work of installing the cylinders on the engine back at my hangar.
My aircraft will be 7 years old in September. Some of this engine work goes
back 10 years. I was able to purchase a WRECKED airplane for $2,600. That
is how I got the engine in my RV. The engine was balanced, "blue printed",
and rebuilt to NEW specs. Total time on engine is now over 4,500 hours.
Ron has everything in his shop necessary to do the same kind of work as
Lycon and Bart at PowerSport. He is not as well know. Being that Ron is
located in SoCAL, you may have a little more money spent for an engine but
he is local and you will not need to pay shipping.
I have enough confidence in Ron and his work that I am willing to give him a
blank check to do work for me. I believe that it will be done correctly and
at a fair price.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,570 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Gary Lineberry" <glineberry(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Performance Engines
Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2004 17:47:46 -0700
Has anyone had dealings with Performance Engines in La Verne, California?
How would you rate their products and service?
Thanks,
Gary Lineberry
RV-8 QB
N48GG reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Emergency Parachutes |
Hi All-
I promise this is the last correction to the addenda... As I re-read the
note I posted I realized I made an error. My buddy was actually at about
400' when he pushed over. He was more like 200' or less when he pulled the
ripcord, hence the failure to open completely. As I recall, the TSO for
emergency rigs requires full opening and deceleration within about 500'.
Glen Matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
>
> Right at 2 years ago (Aug 10, 2002) my buddy found himself departing a
> crippled Eagle II that was travelling essentially vertically at about
400'.
> He's fine, the Eagle is landfill.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.net> |
Todd
Did you also find the Installation Drawing 4-621001 on their web site that
shows the total lever travel from open to closed is only 45 degrees, 22 1/2
degrees above and below the horizontal position ?
Dean Van Winkle
RV-9A 13B Rotary
----- Original Message -----
From: "Todd Bartrim" <haywire(at)telus.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Park brake
>
> OK, now this sheds some light on the subject. I had assumed that
it was a
> simple on/off valve and unfortunately in it's installed location it is
very
> hard to closely inspect. This makes allot of sense and I believe I have
mine
> set up for a 90 degree arc of travel. I do remember that mine never came
> with any info at all. Every time that I have this problem I check that the
> lever is down and I try to reach down to push it that little extra, which
is
> apparently the wrong thing to do.
> Thanks Wheeler!
> Previous google searches failed to bring up Matco's web site, only
vendor
> sites, however a search for "Matco" only brought up Matco Mfg, which has
> exactly the info required including an exploded view of the valve,
> confirming Wheelers explanation. It can be seen at:
>
>
http://www.matcomfg.com/catalog/index.php?file=catalog&action=catalog_produc
> tinfo&uid=2192&pi_id=61655&clist=0,59990,60741
> Click on illustrated parts list.
>
> It appears that they also recently increased the inlet hole spacing to
allow
> 90 degree AN fittings (remember that little pain-in-the-a**?)
>
> Thanks to all those that helped
>
> Todd Bartrim
>
> RV9Endurance
> 13B Turbo Rotary
> C-FSTB
> http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
>
> "The world will always have a place for those that bring hard
> work and determination to the things they do."
>
>
> The matco park brake valves have two spring loaded poppet valves (one for
> each side) that are pushed open by two cam lobes on a rotating shaft.
>
> When the cams are pushed on them they are stuck open, when the cam is
> rotated off they act like check valves and allow pressure to build up from
> the master cyls but not return.
>
> If the lever rotates too far it will cause the cam to come back off the
> valves and reengage the parking brake.
>
> If I remember correctly 90degs is too much lever travel, its more like 45
> degs.
>
> As stated in other posts, if the compensating valves in the master
cylinders
> don't open up at the top end of the MC piston travel this will also keep
the
> brakes on.
>
> W
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Taylor" <mtaylo17(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Matco Parking Brake Valve |
We have the Matco valve too. When I looked at the drawing to figure out the
travel, I was most surprised that the valve has no internal stops. I decided
to make positive stops for mine externally. Check it out at
http://home.comcast.net/~mtaylo17/RV7/ on the fuselage page, about a third
of the way down.
Mark.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Knicholas2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | brake cylinder springs |
Hi all! I am having trouble with dragging brakes in my newly flying 9A. The
pedals have full and free motion but they still drag. I read in the archives
about replacing the return springs with longer-stronger ones. THe question:
how easy (difficult?) and messy of a job is that? I am finding it harder
and harder to climb under that panel!!! (... an aging thing....)
Kim Nicholas
RV9A - flying.
Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott(at)telus.net> |
Yikes, now this has me wondering if we've just been lucky allthis time.
I rigged the lever on our Matco valve to have the parking brakes on when the
lever is 90 degrees to the valve body, and off when the lever is in line
with the body.
If this is not the case, then I must rerig this lever and fast.
I did a search for Matco and the drawing you refer to but can't find it.
Could you include the address?
Scott in Vancouver
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dean" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Park brake
>
> Todd
>
> Did you also find the Installation Drawing 4-621001 on their web site that
> shows the total lever travel from open to closed is only 45 degrees, 22
1/2
> degrees above and below the horizontal position ?
>
> Dean Van Winkle
> RV-9A 13B Rotary
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Todd Bartrim" <haywire(at)telus.net>
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Park brake
>
>
> >
> > OK, now this sheds some light on the subject. I had assumed that
> it was a
> > simple on/off valve and unfortunately in it's installed location it is
> very
> > hard to closely inspect. This makes allot of sense and I believe I have
> mine
> > set up for a 90 degree arc of travel. I do remember that mine never came
> > with any info at all. Every time that I have this problem I check that
the
> > lever is down and I try to reach down to push it that little extra,
which
> is
> > apparently the wrong thing to do.
> > Thanks Wheeler!
> > Previous google searches failed to bring up Matco's web site,
only
> vendor
> > sites, however a search for "Matco" only brought up Matco Mfg, which has
> > exactly the info required including an exploded view of the valve,
> > confirming Wheelers explanation. It can be seen at:
> >
> >
>
http://www.matcomfg.com/catalog/index.php?file=catalog&action=catalog_produc
> > tinfo&uid=2192&pi_id=61655&clist=0,59990,60741
> > Click on illustrated parts list.
> >
> > It appears that they also recently increased the inlet hole spacing to
> allow
> > 90 degree AN fittings (remember that little pain-in-the-a**?)
> >
> > Thanks to all those that helped
> >
> > Todd Bartrim
> >
> > RV9Endurance
> > 13B Turbo Rotary
> > C-FSTB
> > http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
> >
> > "The world will always have a place for those that bring
hard
> > work and determination to the things they do."
> >
> >
> >
> > The matco park brake valves have two spring loaded poppet valves (one
for
> > each side) that are pushed open by two cam lobes on a rotating shaft.
> >
> > When the cams are pushed on them they are stuck open, when the cam is
> > rotated off they act like check valves and allow pressure to build up
from
> > the master cyls but not return.
> >
> > If the lever rotates too far it will cause the cam to come back off the
> > valves and reengage the parking brake.
> >
> > If I remember correctly 90degs is too much lever travel, its more like
45
> > degs.
> >
> > As stated in other posts, if the compensating valves in the master
> cylinders
> > don't open up at the top end of the MC piston travel this will also keep
> the
> > brakes on.
> >
> > W
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Todd Bartrim" <haywire(at)telus.net> |
Hi Dean;
The link for the installation drawing seems to be broken. Did anybody else
receive their p-brake without an installation drawing or are they normally
included? If anybody has one they can scan and send to me I sure would
appreciate it, otherwise I'll just e-mail their tech dept, should get an
answer on Monday.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dean
Subject: Re: RV-List: Park brake
Todd
Did you also find the Installation Drawing 4-621001 on their web site that
shows the total lever travel from open to closed is only 45 degrees, 22 1/2
degrees above and below the horizontal position ?
Dean Van Winkle
RV-9A 13B Rotary
----- Original Message -----
From: "Todd Bartrim" <haywire(at)telus.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Park brake
>
> OK, now this sheds some light on the subject. I had assumed that
it was a
> simple on/off valve and unfortunately in it's installed location it is
very
> hard to closely inspect. This makes allot of sense and I believe I have
mine
> set up for a 90 degree arc of travel. I do remember that mine never came
> with any info at all. Every time that I have this problem I check that the
> lever is down and I try to reach down to push it that little extra, which
is
> apparently the wrong thing to do.
> Thanks Wheeler!
> Previous google searches failed to bring up Matco's web site, only
vendor
> sites, however a search for "Matco" only brought up Matco Mfg, which has
> exactly the info required including an exploded view of the valve,
> confirming Wheelers explanation. It can be seen at:
>
>
http://www.matcomfg.com/catalog/index.php?file=catalog&action=catalog_produc
> tinfo&uid=2192&pi_id=61655&clist=0,59990,60741
> Click on illustrated parts list.
>
> It appears that they also recently increased the inlet hole spacing to
allow
> 90 degree AN fittings (remember that little pain-in-the-a**?)
>
> Thanks to all those that helped
>
> Todd Bartrim
>
> RV9Endurance
> 13B Turbo Rotary
> C-FSTB
> http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
>
> "The world will always have a place for those that bring hard
> work and determination to the things they do."
>
>
> The matco park brake valves have two spring loaded poppet valves (one for
> each side) that are pushed open by two cam lobes on a rotating shaft.
>
> When the cams are pushed on them they are stuck open, when the cam is
> rotated off they act like check valves and allow pressure to build up from
> the master cyls but not return.
>
> If the lever rotates too far it will cause the cam to come back off the
> valves and reengage the parking brake.
>
> If I remember correctly 90degs is too much lever travel, its more like 45
> degs.
>
> As stated in other posts, if the compensating valves in the master
cylinders
> don't open up at the top end of the MC piston travel this will also keep
the
> brakes on.
>
> W
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Todd Bartrim" <haywire(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Matco Parking Brake Valve |
Hi Mark;
This is a great idea. I was thinking about drilling a set of shallow holes
to insert roll pins to use as stops, but due to the location of the shaft at
the bottom of the block, this is not practical. Your solution looks like it
will work great.
Todd Bartrim
RV9Endurance
13B Turbo Rotary
C-FSTB
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
"The world will always have a place for those that bring hard
work and determination to the things they do."
We have the Matco valve too. When I looked at the drawing to figure out the
travel, I was most surprised that the valve has no internal stops. I decided
to make positive stops for mine externally. Check it out at
http://home.comcast.net/~mtaylo17/RV7/ on the fuselage page, about a third
of the way down.
Mark.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: brake cylinder springs |
In a message dated 8/15/2004 7:25:17 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
Knicholas2(at)aol.com writes:
Hi all! I am having trouble with dragging brakes in my newly flying 9A.
The
pedals have full and free motion but they still drag. I read in the
archives
about replacing the return springs with longer-stronger ones. THe question:
how easy (difficult?) and messy of a job is that? I am finding it harder
and harder to climb under that panel!!!
======================================
Hire a small flexible person to do it, but definitely get it done. I still
believe that the real problem with the springs that came on my cylinders
wasn't that they were any shorter, but that the wire used was not properly heat
treated and so they were yielding or "sacking out" as a result of actuating
them with no fluid occasionally prior to installation.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 708 hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 8/14/2004 7:02:35 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us writes:
The matco park brake valves have two spring loaded poppet valves (one for
each side) that are pushed open by two cam lobes on a rotating shaft.
When the cams are pushed on them they are stuck open, when the cam is
rotated off they act like check valves and allow pressure to build up from
the master cyls but not return.
If the lever rotates too far it will cause the cam to come back off the
valves and reengage the parking brake.
===================================
Okay. Now we get to the crux of the matter. As I have a Parker Cleveland
valve in my 6A, I don't have this possibility. The construction is completely
different Cleveland vs Matco. IMO the Matco is a poor design, if it
requires external stops. The Cleveland valve is self contained and has it's own
built in stops.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 708 hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Performance Engines |
In a message dated 8/14/2004 10:50:56 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com writes:
My aircraft will be 7 years old in September. Some of this engine work goes
back 10 years. I was able to purchase a WRECKED airplane for $2,600. That
is how I got the engine in my RV. The engine was balanced, "blue printed",
and rebuilt to NEW specs. Total time on engine is now over 4,500 hours.
=======================================
After watching the news last night it looks as though there will be a few
more wrecked planes in Florida that will help engine availability for RVs.
It's one of those bad news good news things.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 708 hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Todd Bartrim" <haywire(at)telus.net> |
OK, I've found the install drawing through their technical support page.
I
hadn't looked there yet as I'd expected the usual contact info for tech
support, Instead it opens up a library of all of their product drawings with
all of the necessary info.
Ahhh... If only I'd found this info a few years ago when I was installing
this thing.
http://matco.elixirlabs.com/users/matco/images/IM27a.jpg
http://matco.elixirlabs.com/users/matco/images/mastercylinder23a.jpg
Todd Bartrim
RV9Endurance
13B Turbo Rotary
C-FSTB
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
"The world will always have a place for those that bring hard
work and determination to the things they do."
Hi Dean;
The link for the installation drawing seems to be broken. Did
anybody else
receive their p-brake without an installation drawing or are they normally
included? If anybody has one they can scan and send to me I sure would
appreciate it, otherwise I'll just e-mail their tech dept, should get an
answer on Monday.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dean
Subject: Re: RV-List: Park brake
Todd
Did you also find the Installation Drawing 4-621001 on their web site that
shows the total lever travel from open to closed is only 45 degrees, 22 1/2
degrees above and below the horizontal position ?
Dean Van Winkle
RV-9A 13B Rotary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
Try this:
http://matco.elixirlabs.com/users/matco/images/IM27a.jpg
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jaye and Scott
Jackson
Subject: Re: RV-List: Park brake
Yikes, now this has me wondering if we've just been lucky allthis time.
I rigged the lever on our Matco valve to have the parking brakes on when
the
lever is 90 degrees to the valve body, and off when the lever is in line
with the body.
If this is not the case, then I must rerig this lever and fast.
I did a search for Matco and the drawing you refer to but can't find it.
Could you include the address?
Scott in Vancouver
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dean" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Park brake
>
> Todd
>
> Did you also find the Installation Drawing 4-621001 on their web site
that
> shows the total lever travel from open to closed is only 45 degrees,
22
1/2
> degrees above and below the horizontal position ?
>
> Dean Van Winkle
> RV-9A 13B Rotary
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Todd Bartrim" <haywire(at)telus.net>
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Park brake
>
>
> >
> > OK, now this sheds some light on the subject. I had assumed
that
> it was a
> > simple on/off valve and unfortunately in it's installed location it
is
> very
> > hard to closely inspect. This makes allot of sense and I believe I
have
> mine
> > set up for a 90 degree arc of travel. I do remember that mine never
came
> > with any info at all. Every time that I have this problem I check
that
the
> > lever is down and I try to reach down to push it that little extra,
which
> is
> > apparently the wrong thing to do.
> > Thanks Wheeler!
> > Previous google searches failed to bring up Matco's web
site,
only
> vendor
> > sites, however a search for "Matco" only brought up Matco Mfg, which
has
> > exactly the info required including an exploded view of the valve,
> > confirming Wheelers explanation. It can be seen at:
> >
> >
>
http://www.matcomfg.com/catalog/index.php?file=catalog&action=catalog_pr
oduc
> > tinfo&uid=2192&pi_id=61655&clist=0,59990,60741
> > Click on illustrated parts list.
> >
> > It appears that they also recently increased the inlet hole spacing
to
> allow
> > 90 degree AN fittings (remember that little pain-in-the-a**?)
> >
> > Thanks to all those that helped
> >
> > Todd Bartrim
> >
> > RV9Endurance
> > 13B Turbo Rotary
> > C-FSTB
> > http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
> >
> > "The world will always have a place for those that
bring
hard
> > work and determination to the things they do."
> >
> >
> >
> > The matco park brake valves have two spring loaded poppet valves
(one
for
> > each side) that are pushed open by two cam lobes on a rotating
shaft.
> >
> > When the cams are pushed on them they are stuck open, when the cam
is
> > rotated off they act like check valves and allow pressure to build
up
from
> > the master cyls but not return.
> >
> > If the lever rotates too far it will cause the cam to come back off
the
> > valves and reengage the parking brake.
> >
> > If I remember correctly 90degs is too much lever travel, its more
like
45
> > degs.
> >
> > As stated in other posts, if the compensating valves in the master
> cylinders
> > don't open up at the top end of the MC piston travel this will also
keep
> the
> > brakes on.
> >
> > W
> >
> >
>
>
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | EGT/CHT question |
Engine gurus,
I know that high EGTs can lead to high CHTs. Can a semi-inverse
relationship exist as well?
In our O-320 fixed pitch 6a, I've noticed that the #1 cyl has run
noticeably cooler in both EGT and CHT than the others with #3 being
consistently hotter in CHT. The EGT on #1 was sometimes 100 or more
degrees cooler than the rest but sometimes within 30 degrees or so. The
inconsistency is more troubling that the actual figures.
I've been experimenting with blocking part of the airflow to #1 with
metal tape to see if I can get #3 to run cooler. This has worked quite
well, bringing #1's temp up to within a few degrees of #s 2 and 4 and
bringing #3's down to within about 20 or 30 degrees of the pack. This is
gratifying. I've only flown it a couple of hours with the latest tape
job, so the figures are preliminary. If they hold up, I'll make a more
permanent shield from sheet metal.
There was, however an unexpected rise in the EGT of #1 bringing it into
line with the others. The spread is now much smaller with #1 usually not
the lowest anymore. I'm not complaining. I'm just mystified. Was the
cylinder running so cool that breathing or combustion was somehow
inhibited?
Anybody have a good explanation for this?
Ed Holyoke
Co-owner RV-6a N79WH
RV-6 N86ED (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
No I did not get a drawing either with my valve
Gert
Todd Bartrim wrote:
>
> Hi Dean;
> The link for the installation drawing seems to be broken. Did anybody
else
> receive their p-brake without an installation drawing or are they normally
> included? If anybody has one they can scan and send to me I sure would
> appreciate it, otherwise I'll just e-mail their tech dept, should get an
> answer on Monday.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dean
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Park brake
>
>
>
> Todd
>
> Did you also find the Installation Drawing 4-621001 on their web site that
> shows the total lever travel from open to closed is only 45 degrees, 22 1/2
> degrees above and below the horizontal position ?
>
> Dean Van Winkle
> RV-9A 13B Rotary
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Todd Bartrim" <haywire(at)telus.net>
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Park brake
>
>
>
>>
>> OK, now this sheds some light on the subject. I had assumed that
>
> it was a
>
>>simple on/off valve and unfortunately in it's installed location it is
>
> very
>
>>hard to closely inspect. This makes allot of sense and I believe I have
>
> mine
>
>>set up for a 90 degree arc of travel. I do remember that mine never came
>>with any info at all. Every time that I have this problem I check that the
>>lever is down and I try to reach down to push it that little extra, which
>
> is
>
>>apparently the wrong thing to do.
>> Thanks Wheeler!
>> Previous google searches failed to bring up Matco's web site, only
>
> vendor
>
>>sites, however a search for "Matco" only brought up Matco Mfg, which has
>>exactly the info required including an exploded view of the valve,
>>confirming Wheelers explanation. It can be seen at:
>>
>>
>
> http://www.matcomfg.com/catalog/index.php?file=catalog&action=catalog_produc
>
>>tinfo&uid=2192&pi_id=61655&clist=0,59990,60741
>> Click on illustrated parts list.
>>
>>It appears that they also recently increased the inlet hole spacing to
>
> allow
>
>>90 degree AN fittings (remember that little pain-in-the-a**?)
>>
>>Thanks to all those that helped
>>
>>Todd Bartrim
>>
>>RV9Endurance
>>13B Turbo Rotary
>>C-FSTB
>>http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
>>
>> "The world will always have a place for those that bring hard
>>work and determination to the things they do."
>>
>>
>>
>>The matco park brake valves have two spring loaded poppet valves (one for
>>each side) that are pushed open by two cam lobes on a rotating shaft.
>>
>>When the cams are pushed on them they are stuck open, when the cam is
>>rotated off they act like check valves and allow pressure to build up from
>>the master cyls but not return.
>>
>>If the lever rotates too far it will cause the cam to come back off the
>>valves and reengage the parking brake.
>>
>>If I remember correctly 90degs is too much lever travel, its more like 45
>>degs.
>>
>>As stated in other posts, if the compensating valves in the master
>
> cylinders
>
>>don't open up at the top end of the MC piston travel this will also keep
>
> the
>
>>brakes on.
>>
>>W
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EGT/CHT question |
Do you have the front cylinder-temperature raising plates installed as per
the baffle drawings?
Scott in Vancouver
going out to look at the parking brake valve....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: RV-List: EGT/CHT question
>
>
> Engine gurus,
>
> I know that high EGTs can lead to high CHTs. Can a semi-inverse
> relationship exist as well?
>
> In our O-320 fixed pitch 6a, I've noticed that the #1 cyl has run
> noticeably cooler in both EGT and CHT than the others with #3 being
> consistently hotter in CHT. The EGT on #1 was sometimes 100 or more
> degrees cooler than the rest but sometimes within 30 degrees or so. The
> inconsistency is more troubling that the actual figures.
>
> I've been experimenting with blocking part of the airflow to #1 with
> metal tape to see if I can get #3 to run cooler. This has worked quite
> well, bringing #1's temp up to within a few degrees of #s 2 and 4 and
> bringing #3's down to within about 20 or 30 degrees of the pack. This is
> gratifying. I've only flown it a couple of hours with the latest tape
> job, so the figures are preliminary. If they hold up, I'll make a more
> permanent shield from sheet metal.
>
> There was, however an unexpected rise in the EGT of #1 bringing it into
> line with the others. The spread is now much smaller with #1 usually not
> the lowest anymore. I'm not complaining. I'm just mystified. Was the
> cylinder running so cool that breathing or combustion was somehow
> inhibited?
>
> Anybody have a good explanation for this?
>
> Ed Holyoke
> Co-owner RV-6a N79WH
> RV-6 N86ED (reserved)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | EGT/CHT question |
Scott,
I haven't even looked at that area of the plans. Come to think of it, I
don't believe I have the baffle drawings. We didn't build this plane and
mine isn't that far along yet. So far I've just put metal tape on the
front of the #1 cyl and head about an inch high as a temporary air dam.
We can do something more permanent once we're sure how much air to
block.
I expected this to raise the CHT on #1, but I don't understand why the
EGT went up as well.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
Co-owner RV-6a N79WH
RV-6 N86ED (reserved)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jaye and Scott
Jackson
Subject: Re: RV-List: EGT/CHT question
Do you have the front cylinder-temperature raising plates installed as
per
the baffle drawings?
Scott in Vancouver
going out to look at the parking brake valve....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: RV-List: EGT/CHT question
>
>
> Engine gurus,
>
> I know that high EGTs can lead to high CHTs. Can a semi-inverse
> relationship exist as well?
>
> In our O-320 fixed pitch 6a, I've noticed that the #1 cyl has run
> noticeably cooler in both EGT and CHT than the others with #3 being
> consistently hotter in CHT. The EGT on #1 was sometimes 100 or more
> degrees cooler than the rest but sometimes within 30 degrees or so.
The
> inconsistency is more troubling that the actual figures.
>
> I've been experimenting with blocking part of the airflow to #1 with
> metal tape to see if I can get #3 to run cooler. This has worked quite
> well, bringing #1's temp up to within a few degrees of #s 2 and 4 and
> bringing #3's down to within about 20 or 30 degrees of the pack. This
is
> gratifying. I've only flown it a couple of hours with the latest tape
> job, so the figures are preliminary. If they hold up, I'll make a more
> permanent shield from sheet metal.
>
> There was, however an unexpected rise in the EGT of #1 bringing it
into
> line with the others. The spread is now much smaller with #1 usually
not
> the lowest anymore. I'm not complaining. I'm just mystified. Was the
> cylinder running so cool that breathing or combustion was somehow
> inhibited?
>
> Anybody have a good explanation for this?
>
> Ed Holyoke
> Co-owner RV-6a N79WH
> RV-6 N86ED (reserved)
>
>
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "sportpilot" <sportypilot(at)stx.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Performance Engines |
I am just hoping our pilot and builder brothers and sisters are ok
and they are safe , I can't imagine spending 3-10
years building my dream plane and it going to rubble in a matter of
minutes / hours in a storm, although I live on
the gulf coast also, ( I have seen the damage these things can do )
only mother nature can tell where these things
can go.. I just wanted to wish all the florida people the best and I
hope everyones family is ok..
----- Original Message -----
From: <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Performance Engines
>
>
> In a message dated 8/14/2004 10:50:56 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com writes:
>
> My aircraft will be 7 years old in September. Some of this engine work
goes
>
> back 10 years. I was able to purchase a WRECKED airplane for $2,600.
That
> is how I got the engine in my RV. The engine was balanced, "blue
printed",
> and rebuilt to NEW specs. Total time on engine is now over 4,500 hours.
>
>
> =======================================
>
> After watching the news last night it looks as though there will be a few
> more wrecked planes in Florida that will help engine availability for RVs.
> It's one of those bad news good news things.
>
> GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 708 hrs)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Listers,
Has anyone sanded the gelcoat off the fiberglass end caps on
the rudder, verticle
stab ect. I know that gelcoat tends to crack after a period
of time.
Any advice on this is appreciated
Peter
RV9A
waiting for wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EGT/CHT question |
OK, these pieces rise vertically from teh horizontal intake ramps, rest
against the front of the front cylinders, and reach all the way up the
vertical surfaces of the cylinders. There are two pieces per side, the inner
one has a slight curve to follow the fins of the cylinder barrel itself,
while the outer one shields the cylinder head. they are rivetted to aluminum
angle that is also rivetted to the inlet ramps.
Some builders leave them out, I don't know what the percentages are.
I don';t know what dynamic is at work to change the EGT. While there must be
some relationship between the CHT and EGT, perhaps the EGT probe was getting
some cooling from the baffle system before you changed the airflow, but I
would think that would be a longshot.
Scott
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: EGT/CHT question
>
> Scott,
>
> I haven't even looked at that area of the plans. Come to think of it, I
> don't believe I have the baffle drawings. We didn't build this plane and
> mine isn't that far along yet. So far I've just put metal tape on the
> front of the #1 cyl and head about an inch high as a temporary air dam.
> We can do something more permanent once we're sure how much air to
> block.
>
> I expected this to raise the CHT on #1, but I don't understand why the
> EGT went up as well.
>
> Pax,
>
> Ed Holyoke
> Co-owner RV-6a N79WH
> RV-6 N86ED (reserved)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jaye and Scott
> Jackson
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: EGT/CHT question
>
>
>
> Do you have the front cylinder-temperature raising plates installed as
> per
> the baffle drawings?
> Scott in Vancouver
> going out to look at the parking brake valve....
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: EGT/CHT question
>
>
> >
> >
> > Engine gurus,
> >
> > I know that high EGTs can lead to high CHTs. Can a semi-inverse
> > relationship exist as well?
> >
> > In our O-320 fixed pitch 6a, I've noticed that the #1 cyl has run
> > noticeably cooler in both EGT and CHT than the others with #3 being
> > consistently hotter in CHT. The EGT on #1 was sometimes 100 or more
> > degrees cooler than the rest but sometimes within 30 degrees or so.
> The
> > inconsistency is more troubling that the actual figures.
> >
> > I've been experimenting with blocking part of the airflow to #1 with
> > metal tape to see if I can get #3 to run cooler. This has worked quite
> > well, bringing #1's temp up to within a few degrees of #s 2 and 4 and
> > bringing #3's down to within about 20 or 30 degrees of the pack. This
> is
> > gratifying. I've only flown it a couple of hours with the latest tape
> > job, so the figures are preliminary. If they hold up, I'll make a more
> > permanent shield from sheet metal.
> >
> > There was, however an unexpected rise in the EGT of #1 bringing it
> into
> > line with the others. The spread is now much smaller with #1 usually
> not
> > the lowest anymore. I'm not complaining. I'm just mystified. Was the
> > cylinder running so cool that breathing or combustion was somehow
> > inhibited?
> >
> > Anybody have a good explanation for this?
> >
> > Ed Holyoke
> > Co-owner RV-6a N79WH
> > RV-6 N86ED (reserved)
> >
> >
>
>
> =
> =
> =
> =
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: brake cylinder springs |
I had this problem when I first flew my 6, and it took quite a bit of
troubleshooting to find the problem.
In my case, I'm ashamed to admit that both wheels had become slightly loose
and where wobbling enough to drag the brake disc on the pads.
How this happened, I don't know, I was so careful to adjust the bearing
preload just right, like I've done many times before.
only found it when I jacked up the wheel and rocked it from side-to-side,
and it didn't move much, but it hadn't had any sideplay when I assembled it
the first time.
Took ten hours of flying to track it down, then it's been fine for the 140
hours put on since.
Scott in Vancouver
----- Original Message -----
From: <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: brake cylinder springs
>
>
> In a message dated 8/15/2004 7:25:17 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> Knicholas2(at)aol.com writes:
>
> Hi all! I am having trouble with dragging brakes in my newly flying 9A.
> The
> pedals have full and free motion but they still drag. I read in the
> archives
> about replacing the return springs with longer-stronger ones. THe
question:
>
> how easy (difficult?) and messy of a job is that? I am finding it
harder
> and harder to climb under that panel!!!
>
>
> ======================================
>
> Hire a small flexible person to do it, but definitely get it done. I
still
> believe that the real problem with the springs that came on my cylinders
> wasn't that they were any shorter, but that the wire used was not properly
heat
> treated and so they were yielding or "sacking out" as a result of
actuating
> them with no fluid occasionally prior to installation.
>
> GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 708 hrs)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Matco Parking Brake Valve |
You're obviously a much-better builder than me. My parking brake just
appeared from VAn's in a paper bag, nothing else with it. I figured that the
lever let fluid through when it was in-line with the valve, and blocked it
when it was at 90 degrees to the valve.
I installed it that way, with lever stops, and it actually worked, except
for having to play with pedal pressures to get it to release.
Even included a microswitch that illuminated a "park Brake" annunciator on
the panel whenever the lever was off the in-line stop,so we wouldn't try to
go anywhere with the valve at any position other than full-open.
Guess it was just s...house luck that it's worked this long, and that we
never landed with the brakes locked on.
Scott in Vancouver
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Taylor" <mtaylo17(at)msn.com>
Subject: RV-List: Matco Parking Brake Valve
>
> We have the Matco valve too. When I looked at the drawing to figure out
the
> travel, I was most surprised that the valve has no internal stops. I
decided
> to make positive stops for mine externally. Check it out at
> http://home.comcast.net/~mtaylo17/RV7/ on the fuselage page, about a third
> of the way down.
>
> Mark.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Emergency Parachutes |
Ah, if it were so easy!
Why, we'd all be equipped with cartridge starters, I'm sure.
Scott in Vancouver
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Emergency Parachutes
>
> Remember our motto. "There's no problem in the world that can't be
> solved with enough explosives".
>
> Bruce
> www.glasair.org
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jaye and Scott
> Jackson
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Emergency Parachutes
>
>
>
>
> Sam:
> As per the writeup on the WWWing webpage, I replaced the hardware that
> holds the front of the canopy frame to the track rollers with quick
> release
> hitch pins of the same diameter. These are also known as tractor pins in
> farm supply stores.
> I figured I could unlatch the canopy, pull these two pins, slide it
> enough
> to have the overhead latching arm clear the rollover frame, then provide
> just enough of a lift at the front to get the airflow underneath,
> instead of
> having the airflow on the top pushing the canopy forward and downwards,
> which it apparently does.
> If anyone has done it before, and found the effort of raising the
> canopy a
> couple of inches too great, I'm playing with the idea of two
> lever-operated
> cams, that would pull aft and down, acting upon the canopy track, to
> provide
> the necessary force.
> Safer than, but not as much bang as, det. cord glued to the canopy
> around
> the edges, which would surely work.
> Scott in Vancouver
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Emergency Parachutes
>
>
> >
> > Jaye and Scott Jackson wrote:
> >
>
> > >
> > > Although I fly an RV-6, I have two chutes.
> >
> >
> >
> > Scott, what is your plan for dealing with the RV-6 canopy if you
> decide
> > you need to exit the plane while airborne?
> >
> > Sam Buchanan
> >
> >
>
>
> =
> =
> =
> =
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RGray67968(at)aol.com |
Peter, MO....don't waste your time sanding off the gelcoat on the items you
mention. The gelcoat 'can' and 'will' crack in areas where it is
stressed.....and those areas do not stress. But, when you get to the air inlets
of the cowl
.....be sure to get rid of the gel coat. That area is under continuous stress
and WILL crack if left on.....just look at any RV with the 'old' style cowls.
Rick Gray RV6 O-360 Hartzell in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm
for the archives
Has anyone sanded the gelcoat off the fiberglass end caps on
the rudder, verticle
stab ect. I know that gelcoat tends to crack after a period
of time.
Any advice on this is appreciated
Peter
RV9A
waiting for wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | EGT/CHT question |
Hey Scott,
Thanks for the description of the front cylinder temperature raising
plates. I've covered perhaps 1/2 the vertical surface of the front of
the cylinder and head with metal tape. Cylinders # 2 and 4 are so
similar in temps that I don't think it needs one on that side. I'll go
through the drawings we got with the airplane and see if there's a
baffle plan there.
By the way, I was looking at a Maule with an O-320 and it has flexible
baffle seal material laid up against the front of the cylinders on both
sides from the factory as a sort of air dam.
Ed
OK, these pieces rise vertically from teh horizontal intake ramps, rest
against the front of the front cylinders, and reach all the way up the
vertical surfaces of the cylinders. There are two pieces per side, the
inner
one has a slight curve to follow the fins of the cylinder barrel
itself,
while the outer one shields the cylinder head. they are rivetted to
aluminum
angle that is also rivetted to the inlet ramps.
Some builders leave them out, I don't know what the percentages are.
I don';t know what dynamic is at work to change the EGT. While there
must be
some relationship between the CHT and EGT, perhaps the EGT probe was
getting
some cooling from the baffle system before you changed the airflow, but
I
would think that would be a longshot.
Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
On August 1, 2004, at 1850 central daylight time, a Lancair 2000, N98SN,
collided with a light post and the terrain during an off airport landing in
Madison, Wisconsin,
Well,
Not sure what Madison was like at 1800, but at 1200 that day I wouldn't have
flown there, and in fact didn't. That was the mother and father of embedded
cell systems to the north and south of central wisconsin and the IA/MN
border. We did find a big west bound hole right on that border, but it
closed as we went through it. Had a bolt land between myself and the other
aircraft when we were a few hundred yards apart.
There is some idication that they were having engine trouble, and the
chelton FDC/EDC was recovered intact.
RE NTSB Reports. There was one about a kitfox incident at Arlington. Since I
was right there helping to remove the aircraft from the boo boo site it was
amazing to see how badly they messed it up. The only two things that were
reasonably accurate were the aircraft make and the airport.
I do have to say that I am on the top of the "Fear and other emotions make
me do stupid things" list. I would also suggest that one can easily become
IMC without ever flying into a cloud. Been there, done that, bought the tee
shirt and had it canned.
But I now know a few more things to consider during flight preparation that
might help me to avoid a repeat.
All that said, it is always a blessing when one of us makes a mistake, and
both lives to learn from it and learns to live from it.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVEIGHTA(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Airtech Wingtip lens kit |
I noticed several rv's at Oshkosh had installed nav lights, strobes and
landing lights in a very neat looking flush mounted wingtip lens. I assume these
are probably the Airtech Wingtip lens kits sold by Van's.
Any comments on difficulty of installation, problems in service? I'm
considering installing these versus the nav light extensions/leading edge landing
&
taxi light kit as I did on my RV-8A.
Walt Shipley 100 + hours on RV-8A
Beginning constructions of RV-8 QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: loose wheel bearings was brake cylinder springs |
Scott,
It's very likely that you didn't do anything wrong. The tapered roller
bearings wear slightly when new. This is part of their "break in" process.
You should re check the bearing adjustment at some point in your 25 - 40
hour Phase 1 test period. After that, I'd check them at 100 hour intervals.
Remember, wheel bearings are a "wear" item. The wear is small, but it
exists. It's normal to have to re-adjust them from time to time.
Charlie Kuss
>
>
>I had this problem when I first flew my 6, and it took quite a bit of
>troubleshooting to find the problem.
>In my case, I'm ashamed to admit that both wheels had become slightly loose
>and where wobbling enough to drag the brake disc on the pads.
>How this happened, I don't know, I was so careful to adjust the bearing
>preload just right, like I've done many times before.
>only found it when I jacked up the wheel and rocked it from side-to-side,
>and it didn't move much, but it hadn't had any sideplay when I assembled it
>the first time.
>Took ten hours of flying to track it down, then it's been fine for the 140
>hours put on since.
>Scott in Vancouver
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: brake cylinder springs
>
>
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 8/15/2004 7:25:17 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> > Knicholas2(at)aol.com writes:
> >
> > Hi all! I am having trouble with dragging brakes in my newly flying 9A.
> > The
> > pedals have full and free motion but they still drag. I read in the
> > archives
> > about replacing the return springs with longer-stronger ones. THe
>question:
> >
> > how easy (difficult?) and messy of a job is that? I am finding it
>harder
> > and harder to climb under that panel!!!
>snipped
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | loose wheel bearings was brake cylinder springs |
> Remember, wheel bearings are a "wear" item. The wear is small, but it
> exists. It's normal to have to re-adjust them from time to
> time. Charlie Kuss
Properly lubricated, clean and adjusted wheel bearings virtually do not
wear, they should be good for hundreds of thousands of taxi miles. That
said, if they don't have proper preload, they will indeed wear, and wear
fast. Roller bearings are designed to have a line contact with their
races. If not adjusted properly, the contact area becomes a point -
ouch. Often what happens to cause slop in the system is that there is a
little bit of dirt in the contact area of the adjusting nut when the
initial adjustment occurs. This dirt goes away soon, leaving slop. The
best way to set up roller bearings is to tighten significantly while
constantly rotating the wheel (crushing any debris preventing full
seating). This tightening should cause noticable drag fighting the
rotation. Then, back off the torque until the bearing is loose, and
re-snug the nut until the play is gone and add perhaps 10 degrees more
tightening on the nut.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 113 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "sportpilot" <sportypilot(at)stx.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Airtech Wingtip lens kit |
Does the RV8 use the " NOT FOR USE on Sheared Wing Tips. I thought all the
wings these days were of that type.. ?
I am going to ask the list, whats the best plug and play wingtip
strobe/position/landing wingtip setup ? who makes it?
----- Original Message -----
From: <RVEIGHTA(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Airtech Wingtip lens kit
>
> I noticed several rv's at Oshkosh had installed nav lights, strobes and
> landing lights in a very neat looking flush mounted wingtip lens. I assume
these
> are probably the Airtech Wingtip lens kits sold by Van's.
>
> Any comments on difficulty of installation, problems in service? I'm
> considering installing these versus the nav light extensions/leading edge
landing &
> taxi light kit as I did on my RV-8A.
>
> Walt Shipley 100 + hours on RV-8A
> Beginning constructions of RV-8 QB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
What is "gel coat"? I've fit my empennage tips and they are smooth white,
as they came from Van's. Is the white finish "gel coat"?
David
----- Original Message -----
From: <RGray67968(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: gelcoat
>
> Peter, MO....don't waste your time sanding off the gelcoat on the items
you
> mention. The gelcoat 'can' and 'will' crack in areas where it is
> stressed.....and those areas do not stress. But, when you get to the air
inlets of the cowl
> ......be sure to get rid of the gel coat. That area is under continuous
stress
> and WILL crack if left on.....just look at any RV with the 'old' style
cowls.
> Rick Gray RV6 O-360 Hartzell in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm
> for the archives
> Has anyone sanded the gelcoat off the fiberglass end caps on
> the rudder, verticle
> stab ect. I know that gelcoat tends to crack after a period
> of time.
>
> Any advice on this is appreciated
>
>
> Peter
> RV9A
> waiting for wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
Yes. Earlier fglass stuff from Vans was gell coated, the later stuff is
pre-preg expoxy w/out gell coat. Gell coat adds weight but reduces the
amount of finishing work to get a smooth surface.
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
Is the white finish "gel coat"?
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: loose wheel bearings was brake cylinder springs |
Excellent advice, and thank you for forwarding it.
I was probably treating the wheel bearings as if they're the ones on our
'78 Suburban, which seems to thrive on neglect and refuses to die....
Scott in Vancouver
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie Kuss" <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: loose wheel bearings was brake cylinder springs
>
> Scott,
> It's very likely that you didn't do anything wrong. The tapered roller
> bearings wear slightly when new. This is part of their "break in" process.
> You should re check the bearing adjustment at some point in your 25 - 40
> hour Phase 1 test period. After that, I'd check them at 100 hour
intervals.
> Remember, wheel bearings are a "wear" item. The wear is small, but it
> exists. It's normal to have to re-adjust them from time to time.
> Charlie Kuss
>
> >
> >
> >I had this problem when I first flew my 6, and it took quite a bit of
> >troubleshooting to find the problem.
> >In my case, I'm ashamed to admit that both wheels had become slightly
loose
> >and where wobbling enough to drag the brake disc on the pads.
> >How this happened, I don't know, I was so careful to adjust the bearing
> >preload just right, like I've done many times before.
> >only found it when I jacked up the wheel and rocked it from side-to-side,
> >and it didn't move much, but it hadn't had any sideplay when I assembled
it
> >the first time.
> >Took ten hours of flying to track it down, then it's been fine for the
140
> >hours put on since.
> >Scott in Vancouver
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
> >To:
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: brake cylinder springs
> >
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > In a message dated 8/15/2004 7:25:17 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> > > Knicholas2(at)aol.com writes:
> > >
> > > Hi all! I am having trouble with dragging brakes in my newly flying
9A.
> > > The
> > > pedals have full and free motion but they still drag. I read in the
> > > archives
> > > about replacing the return springs with longer-stronger ones. THe
> >question:
> > >
> > > how easy (difficult?) and messy of a job is that? I am finding it
> >harder
> > > and harder to climb under that panel!!!
> >snipped
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bluecavu(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | EGT/CHT question |
I'd be willing to bet big money that your uneven temps are mostly due to
uneven mixture distribution between cylinders -carburetors are lousy at evenly
feeding all the cyls. Some of your cylinders are consequently burning more fuel
and doing more work -trying to bring them in line with cooling flow is like
treating the symptom, not the cause -but it still might not be a bad idea.
You might even notice that your hottest cylinder moves around as you change
power settings...
just a trait of Marvel Schebler (and many other) carbs ...
Scott
N4ZW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:brake cylinder springs |
Kim;
I took the return springs off of my master cylinders and streched them about
3/4 inch and put them back on. I haven't had any more problem.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
On 15 Aug 2004 at 23:16, David Carter wrote:
>
> What is "gel coat"? I've fit my empennage tips and they are smooth
> white, as they came from Van's. Is the white finish "gel coat"?
>
> David
>
Yes.
Used in the boat industry. It's has clay as a componet.
Peter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finn.lassen(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Hurricane and tie-down |
I keep my RV-3 outside.
After looking at news pictures of mangled hangars and planes in
Charley's path, I'm beginning to wonder how stong the tie-down points
are. In my RV-3 I think only two 3/16" bolts hold the tie-down pipe to
the spar web. (By tie-down pipe I mean that thing the O-bolts screw into.)
Assuming that the ropes and ground anchors are strong enough, what kind
of sustained winds will these points theoretically withstand?
Is lift diectly proportional with speed?
I understand that putting sandbags on top of the wings will spoil lift,
but there is still the push on the underside of the wings. And of
course, even if my plane stays put it may still get hit by other loose
planes and debris.
I guess the only safe measure is to fly it out of any predicted
hurricane path. I count myself blessed that Charley didn't hit Tampa Bay
as was predicted.
Finn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Bibb" <rebibb(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hurricane and tie-down |
Lift is proportional to the square of the velocity......
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | HS-405 to HS-710 problem |
| From: | "Will, Scott" <Scott.Will(at)delta.com> |
Hey all,
My first post on the list! Got my -7 horizontal stab about to rivet together today...
but before I do wanted to see your experiences on joining the inner rib
to the front spar and angle.
One side is perfect, all holes line up well and are centered. Using the same hole
template on the other side (meaning same distances for the rivet holes in
the inner rib HS-405), I get really bad edge distance on HS-710. Right now they
are drilled #40 and with that I have about .125" edge distance on that hole.
The bottom hole thru HS-714 is fine. Plans call for 1/8" rivet in all four
holes but I'm thinking of sticking 3 1/8" rivets and 1 3/32" rivet (in the bad
hole).
Or should I just order new HS-710 and HS-405 and possibly HS-702?
Thanks for your help in advance,
Scott Will
-7A emp
Atlanta, GA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | loose wheel bearings was brake cylinder springs |
Alex,
In theory you are correct. I can only reply with my own "anecdotal"
experiences as an auto mechanic. I often find rear wheel drive vehicles
(which also have tapered Timken style roller bearings) with loose front
wheel bearings. It's a simple matter to check and adjust. I use exactly the
method you describe below.
By grasping the tire at the top and bottom (wheel off ground) try to rock
the tire. (Push top toward vehicle, pull bottom towards yourself, then
reverse) There should be no play. If you detect play, you need to readjust
the bearing. Check the achieves. You will find quite a few instances of
brake drag reported due to loose wheel bearings.
Charlie
>
>
> > Remember, wheel bearings are a "wear" item. The wear is small, but it
> > exists. It's normal to have to re-adjust them from time to
> > time. Charlie Kuss
>
>Properly lubricated, clean and adjusted wheel bearings virtually do not
>wear, they should be good for hundreds of thousands of taxi miles. That
>said, if they don't have proper preload, they will indeed wear, and wear
>fast. Roller bearings are designed to have a line contact with their
>races. If not adjusted properly, the contact area becomes a point -
>ouch. Often what happens to cause slop in the system is that there is a
>little bit of dirt in the contact area of the adjusting nut when the
>initial adjustment occurs. This dirt goes away soon, leaving slop. The
>best way to set up roller bearings is to tighten significantly while
>constantly rotating the wheel (crushing any debris preventing full
>seating). This tightening should cause noticable drag fighting the
>rotation. Then, back off the torque until the bearing is loose, and
>re-snug the nut until the play is gone and add perhaps 10 degrees more
>tightening on the nut.
>
>Alex Peterson
>Maple Grove, MN
>RV6-A N66AP 113 hours
>http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | emergency parachutes |
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
Don,
DON'T BUY a chute without trying it in the plane first! You'll waste
your money. A back pack would not work in my 4 or my Rocket (very
similar front seats). Neither would a Long Softie style pack. Neither
would a regular seat pack. What finally was acceptable was a wedge
style seat pack that had most of the bulk toward the front of the pack.
Notice I didn't say it was a great fit, only acceptable. These cockpits
are tight! BTW, I'm 5'10" and 180#.
The alternative might be to move the rollbar aft enough to make more
room for a backback type, but then you might not be able to reach the
rudder pedals when you're not wearing the chute! Or the seat back might
interfere with the rear stick. Always tradeoffs!
Don't buy before you try! You'll be sorry! The chute companies will be
glad to send you parachutes to try. Paraphernalia send me several.
FWIW, somebody compared the RV-8 cockpit to the RV-4. They are
completely different. Mostly because the RV-8 has GOBS more headroom.
Also has the adjustable rudder pedals. The RV-4 is much tighter.
Vince
From: "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Emergency Parachutes
I'm starting to do some formation flying and would like to purchase a
parachute. It seems that Strong, National, and Softie are the preferred
brands.
I'm interested in anyone's opinions about any of the brands as well as
on
the various models they offer.
I'm really interested in the seat vs. back pack tradeoffs. It seems to
me
that with the seat pack works well in the RV-4. But I say this having
tried
neither in my plane.
I'm also curious about if anyone has used or knows about the RV-4
specific
pack that Strong makes. It fits between the seat back and the spar.
Thanks for all of your help.
Don Mei
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Airtech Wingtip lens kit |
I like the ones from Creativair...Bill VonDane...pretty snazzy and
reasonably priced.
----- Original Message -----
From: "sportpilot" <sportypilot(at)stx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Airtech Wingtip lens kit
>
> Does the RV8 use the " NOT FOR USE on Sheared Wing Tips. I thought all the
> wings these days were of that type.. ?
>
> I am going to ask the list, whats the best plug and play wingtip
> strobe/position/landing wingtip setup ? who makes it?
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <RVEIGHTA(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Airtech Wingtip lens kit
>
>
> >
> > I noticed several rv's at Oshkosh had installed nav lights, strobes and
> > landing lights in a very neat looking flush mounted wingtip lens. I
assume
> these
> > are probably the Airtech Wingtip lens kits sold by Van's.
> >
> > Any comments on difficulty of installation, problems in service? I'm
> > considering installing these versus the nav light extensions/leading
edge
> landing &
> > taxi light kit as I did on my RV-8A.
> >
> > Walt Shipley 100 + hours on RV-8A
> > Beginning constructions of RV-8 QB
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | emergency parachutes |
I knew there had to be yet "another" benefit to us side by side guys!!!
At any rate, I have a National 425 (for us "big" guys) backpack type and
rarely wear it. Here's the deal. It's a nice fitting chute on the ground,
but harder then hell on my back in the air. Aside from being hard, It
slides up and down the seat back during those negative g wifferdills, even
if I have my hookers ratcheted down into my thigh! I did see some of the
new chutes at OSH with the sheekskin lining, and I think those would be the
ticket!
Just my 2 cents.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
6'1 - 200+lbs
RV6's, Minneapolis.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Frazier, Vincent
A
Subject: RV-List: emergency parachutes
Don,
DON'T BUY a chute without trying it in the plane first! You'll waste
your money. A back pack would not work in my 4 or my Rocket (very
similar front seats). Neither would a Long Softie style pack. Neither
would a regular seat pack. What finally was acceptable was a wedge
style seat pack that had most of the bulk toward the front of the pack.
Notice I didn't say it was a great fit, only acceptable. These cockpits
are tight! BTW, I'm 5'10" and 180#.
The alternative might be to move the rollbar aft enough to make more
room for a backback type, but then you might not be able to reach the
rudder pedals when you're not wearing the chute! Or the seat back might
interfere with the rear stick. Always tradeoffs!
Don't buy before you try! You'll be sorry! The chute companies will be
glad to send you parachutes to try. Paraphernalia send me several.
FWIW, somebody compared the RV-8 cockpit to the RV-4. They are
completely different. Mostly because the RV-8 has GOBS more headroom.
Also has the adjustable rudder pedals. The RV-4 is much tighter.
Vince
From: "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Emergency Parachutes
I'm starting to do some formation flying and would like to purchase a
parachute. It seems that Strong, National, and Softie are the preferred
brands.
I'm interested in anyone's opinions about any of the brands as well as
on
the various models they offer.
I'm really interested in the seat vs. back pack tradeoffs. It seems to
me
that with the seat pack works well in the RV-4. But I say this having
tried
neither in my plane.
I'm also curious about if anyone has used or knows about the RV-4
specific
pack that Strong makes. It fits between the seat back and the spar.
Thanks for all of your help.
Don Mei
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: emergency parachutes |
Stein Bruch wrote:
>
>I knew there had to be yet "another" benefit to us side by side guys!!!
>
>At any rate, I have a National 425 (for us "big" guys) backpack type and
>rarely wear it. Here's the deal. It's a nice fitting chute on the ground,
>but harder then hell on my back in the air. Aside from being hard, It
>slides up and down the seat back during those negative g wifferdills, even
>if I have my hookers ratcheted down into my thigh! I did see some of the
>new chutes at OSH with the sheekskin lining, and I think those would be the
>ticket!
>
>Just my 2 cents.
>
>Cheers,
>Stein Bruch
>6'1 - 200+lbs
>RV6's, Minneapolis.
>
Good point! You can send your 'chute to
Allen Silver (510) 785-7070
P.O. box 6092
Hayward CA 94540
He's great to work with (replaced my Security 'chute canopy awhile back)
and has great turnaround. Give him a call.
He can add a 'seat' to the backpack ...... if you have any headroom left
:-P .
At 6'1" you might end up with a cracked canopy like my Pitts has .....
outside snaps can be hard on the canopy!!! Having a hard head also helps.
The only other thing I can think of is that your 'chute crotch straps
may be a little loose ..... cinch them up and the 'chute may stop riding up.
How do you like the ratchet straps??? My Pitts still has the std. 5
point harness.
Linn
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Frazier, Vincent
>A
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: emergency parachutes
>
>
>Don,
>
>DON'T BUY a chute without trying it in the plane first! You'll waste
>your money. A back pack would not work in my 4 or my Rocket (very
>similar front seats). Neither would a Long Softie style pack. Neither
>would a regular seat pack. What finally was acceptable was a wedge
>style seat pack that had most of the bulk toward the front of the pack.
>
>
>Notice I didn't say it was a great fit, only acceptable. These cockpits
>are tight! BTW, I'm 5'10" and 180#.
>
>The alternative might be to move the rollbar aft enough to make more
>room for a backback type, but then you might not be able to reach the
>rudder pedals when you're not wearing the chute! Or the seat back might
>interfere with the rear stick. Always tradeoffs!
>
>Don't buy before you try! You'll be sorry! The chute companies will be
>glad to send you parachutes to try. Paraphernalia send me several.
>
>FWIW, somebody compared the RV-8 cockpit to the RV-4. They are
>completely different. Mostly because the RV-8 has GOBS more headroom.
>Also has the adjustable rudder pedals. The RV-4 is much tighter.
>
>Vince
>
>
>From: "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Emergency Parachutes
>
>
>I'm starting to do some formation flying and would like to purchase a
>parachute. It seems that Strong, National, and Softie are the preferred
>
>brands.
>
>I'm interested in anyone's opinions about any of the brands as well as
>on
>the various models they offer.
>
>I'm really interested in the seat vs. back pack tradeoffs. It seems to
>me
>that with the seat pack works well in the RV-4. But I say this having
>tried
>neither in my plane.
>
>I'm also curious about if anyone has used or knows about the RV-4
>specific
>pack that Strong makes. It fits between the seat back and the spar.
>
>Thanks for all of your help.
>
>Don Mei
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hurricane and tie-down |
It's been pointed out that my 'pathetic' statement to John was pretty
strong .... and I agree. I don't even know John! I apologize to John
and the list. Just have a little compassion, please.
Linn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com> |
| Subject: | EAA Tech Advisor... |
(not processed: message from valid local sender)
I have seen some talk about having an EAA Tech Advisor review your progress. How
do you get one of those? is that a formal program
offered through the EAA where you request it from them and then someone calls you?
I looked at the EAA site but did not see anything
about it. Thanks.
- Matt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Birkelbach <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rocket Lands Safely On Highway in Georgia |
Okay I'll bite. How does a pressurization problem at 13,000 ft lead to
running into a stop sign? I've been at 16,000 ft without any
pressurization (no motor for that matter) and it never occured to me
that I had a problem. :-) Am I missing something?
Godspeed,
Phil
> <>Patrick Swayze got lucky with his highway landing,
> however his aircraft did not fair quite as well.
>
> Plane Crash Involving Actor Patrick Swayze
>
> On 1 June 2000, actor Patrick Swayze escaped injury after he made an
> emergency landing in a housing development in Prescott Valley, AZ. He had
> been en route from Van Nuys, CA to Las Vegas, NM when his aircraft
> apparently had a pressurization problem at about 13,000 feet. The
> following
> synopsis is taken from the NTSB report on the accident.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: EAA Tech Advisor... (not processed: message from valid |
local sender)
Generally you ask at your local chapter. Failing that, There is a listing
on the EAA web site under members only. Click on Building, then tech
counselor. You can do a search by chapter number or state. Many chapters
have more than one. You can also phone using the EAA info number found in
your EAA magazine.
Cy Galley
Safety Programs Editor
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com>
Subject: RV-List: EAA Tech Advisor... (not processed: message from valid
local sender)
>
> I have seen some talk about having an EAA Tech Advisor review your
progress. How do you get one of those? is that a formal program
> offered through the EAA where you request it from them and then someone
calls you? I looked at the EAA site but did not see anything
> about it. Thanks.
>
> - Matt
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Cimino" <jcimino(at)echoes.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EAA Tech Advisor... (not processed: message from valid |
local sender)
Matt,
You can go to the EAA Web Site, they have a list of Technical Counselors
and find one near you. It is not a real formal program, but if you find a
good one, he will be a big help. He can check your progress and also send
in reports to EAA which will help with your insurance. You should also
check into the Flight Advisor Program especially when you get close to
finishing. If you have any specific questions, feel free to ask.
Jim Cimino
James Cimino
RV-8 SN 80039
100+ Hours
570-842-4057
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com>
Subject: RV-List: EAA Tech Advisor... (not processed: message from valid
local sender)
>
> I have seen some talk about having an EAA Tech Advisor review your
progress. How do you get one of those? is that a formal program
> offered through the EAA where you request it from them and then someone
calls you? I looked at the EAA site but did not see anything
> about it. Thanks.
>
> - Matt
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "glennpaulwilkinson" <gpww(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | vaccum system for sale |
3.6 ALT_MED Misspelled medication name
I have a vacuum system for sale...all parts have 49 hrs of flight time and were
working perfectly when removed from -4.
-Airborne vacuum pump model 211CC w/ cooling shroud
-Vacuum regulator model 2H3-2
-Sigma-Tek Attitude Gyro model 5000B
-RC Allen DG Model RCA 11A-8
Asking $1500.00
Glenn Wilkinson
RV-4 N654RV @ OKZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com> |
| Subject: | Re: tech advisor |
(not processed: message from valid local sender)
Thanks Tom,
I am in Fresno, CA. I noticed there are two chapters here in town. I will look
around for someone...
- Matt
-----Original Message-----
From: "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo(at)verizon.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2004 11:15:59 -0700
Subject: tech advisor
> Check with your local EAA chapter.
>
> We have one in our chapter here in Apple Valley, CA.
>
> If you had put your city and state on your email, we might know where
> to send you for help.
>
> Tom Gummo
> Apple Valley, CA
> Harmon Rocket-II
>
>
> http://mysite.verizon.net/t.gummo/index.html
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott(at)telus.net> |
if I had made some different
> choices earlier in the flight
This is why it's called a "chain of events" that lead to an accident or
incident. It's rarely just one mistake or oversight that causes an incident,
those have been engineered out of the operation pretty well by now. It's
when one combines with another, and a chain starts.
Scott in Vancouver
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hurricane and tie-down |
Ever hear about "hurricane evacuation"? Fly the plane out of path of storm?
David
----- Original Message -----
From: "Finn Lassen" <finn.lassen(at)verizon.net>
Subject: RV-List: Hurricane and tie-down
>
> I keep my RV-3 outside.
> After looking at news pictures of mangled hangars and planes in
> Charley's path, I'm beginning to wonder how stong the tie-down points
> are. In my RV-3 I think only two 3/16" bolts hold the tie-down pipe to
> the spar web. (By tie-down pipe I mean that thing the O-bolts screw into.)
>
> Assuming that the ropes and ground anchors are strong enough, what kind
> of sustained winds will these points theoretically withstand?
> Is lift diectly proportional with speed?
>
> I understand that putting sandbags on top of the wings will spoil lift,
> but there is still the push on the underside of the wings. And of
> course, even if my plane stays put it may still get hit by other loose
> planes and debris.
>
> I guess the only safe measure is to fly it out of any predicted
> hurricane path. I count myself blessed that Charley didn't hit Tampa Bay
> as was predicted.
>
> Finn
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The Hydes" <nauga(at)brick.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Emergency Parachutes |
Revised version of what I sent Don offline...
I borrowed a backpack (East German, brand unknown) and
seat-pack (Strong 304) chute (thanks, Ken Balch!) for my
RV-4 prior to first flight. With the backpack on I was
pushed far enough forward in the seat that my head would
hit the forward, downsloping, portion of the canopy - this
was with no cushion. With the seat pack and no other cushions
I've got enough room under the canopy to wear a military helmet
(which I gave up on for other reasons). I've since bought
a Strong 304 and it's pretty comfortable. As long as I'm
solo I plan to wear it - cheap insurance - rather than use
cushions. I looked at the RV-specific seat pack chute
Strong makes, but it was thicker than the 304, so I went
with the 304. The borrowed backpack fits fine in the back
seat, not that I'll ever use on back there, and I've since
returned it. The Strong RV-4 model is not as long or wide
as the 304, and is designed to fit between the spar and the
seat back, but *my* 304 fits between *my* spar and seat back
just fine.
Most of my height (72") is in my torso, so I'm probably not a
representative sample, but that was my case. My cockpit is
set up to standard dimensions, and I can't see wearing anything
that's going to push me farther forward. I'm sure glad I tried
before I bought.
Hope this helps,
Dave Hyde
RV-4 in flight test, EAA Tech Counselor
nauga(at)brick.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Taylor" <mtaylo17(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Matco Parking Brake Valve... |
Not necessarily a better builder! Mine came in a paper bag too, and I was
surprised to find the lever swivel a full 360! To satisfy my inquisitiveness
about all things mechanical, it was either a) dismantle it like all my
childhood toys, or 2) search the web for documentation... I did find the
drawing before I mounted mine.
Anyways, if anyone decides to build the external stops like mine, be aware
that the arm does protrude slightly into the mounting face of the valve. I
seem to remember noticing this at an inopportune time while attempting to
fasten it all together!
If anyone want's a better resolution image than the one on my website, feel
free to email a request to me.
Since I can still just about see the valve, I may even be able to remove it
and take some pictures of the actual parts, and the scrap I made it from.
Mark.
RV-7 QB going really slowly...
8 weeks to finish kit arrival!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: tech advisor (not processed: message from valid |
local sender)
Doug Shell-Fresno, CA
Home - (559) 435-4373
Work - (559) 438-8928 Edwin B. Sullivan-Fresno, CA
Home - (559) 229-4663
These are the two listed for Fresno
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: tech advisor (not processed: message from valid local
sender)
>
> Thanks Tom,
>
> I am in Fresno, CA. I noticed there are two chapters here in town. I will
look around for someone...
>
> - Matt
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo(at)verizon.net>
> To:
> Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2004 11:15:59 -0700
> Subject: tech advisor
>
> > Check with your local EAA chapter.
> >
> > We have one in our chapter here in Apple Valley, CA.
> >
> > If you had put your city and state on your email, we might know where
> > to send you for help.
> >
> > Tom Gummo
> > Apple Valley, CA
> > Harmon Rocket-II
> >
> >
> > http://mysite.verizon.net/t.gummo/index.html
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com> |
List:
I am having trouble with my PS Engineering PMA 4000 audio panel in that I get no
side tone with either radio (Icom AC200 and Narco Escort II) that I have running
through it.
Intercom works fine, and I get indications on both radios (not at the same time)
that I am transmitting, as well as indication on the audio panel that either
com 1 or com 2 is transmitting.
I have also tried to increase the volume for the sidetone on the Narco Escort II,
but adjusting the pot makes no difference.
I have not mounted my antennae yet, but a temporary hookup does not produce a received
transmission on my handheld.
Also, when I have the PMA 4000 in failsafe (Off mode), I get a transmission indicator
on the radio without keying the PTT.
Could all this be the result of a relatively low voltage on the main buss? I am
getting a reading of 11.25 volts at present. I am wondering if this is some
sort of voltage saving feature of the audio panel?? My Icom handheld will still
receive on low voltage but will not transmit. Is this a similar thing for
the audio panel?
I have yet to charge up my Odyssey battery since its delivery. Worth a try before
I tear into my wiring harness??
Thanks for the help folks. Boy....do I feel helpless right now....
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P (reserved)
firewall forward etc
Peshtigo, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe & Jan Connell" <jconnell(at)rconnect.com> |
| Subject: | Interesting alternative to traditional magneto |
Hi fellow listers,
A member in our EAA chapters suggested I take a look
at the product mentioned in this link. I would appreciate
any comments you might have. The product is in its
infancy. (I have no affiliation with the company -- just
curious about its potential...)..
http://www.emagair.com
Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: No side-tone |
You could have a problem in your wiring harness. I paid Chief Avionics to
pre-wire mine, and when the time came, I could get a side tone, but the
radio didn't transmit. There was a problem with the harness. I trouble shot
it with Chief's avionics tech and fixed it myself (lots of fun spending a
half hour on my back in the floorboard of the aircraft).
As an aside, I asked the owner of Chief Aircraft/Avionics for a credit
against future purchases (after all, I paid for a wiring harness that
worked, not one I needed to fix). He wouldn't pony up anything - not even a
$25 credit. I removed myself from their customer list after that.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: No side-tone
>
> List:
>
> I am having trouble with my PS Engineering PMA 4000 audio panel in that I
get no side tone with either radio (Icom AC200 and Narco Escort II) that I
have running through it.
>
> Intercom works fine, and I get indications on both radios (not at the same
time) that I am transmitting, as well as indication on the audio panel that
either com 1 or com 2 is transmitting.
>
> I have also tried to increase the volume for the sidetone on the Narco
Escort II, but adjusting the pot makes no difference.
>
> I have not mounted my antennae yet, but a temporary hookup does not
produce a received transmission on my handheld.
>
> Also, when I have the PMA 4000 in failsafe (Off mode), I get a
transmission indicator on the radio without keying the PTT.
>
> Could all this be the result of a relatively low voltage on the main buss?
I am getting a reading of 11.25 volts at present. I am wondering if this is
some sort of voltage saving feature of the audio panel?? My Icom handheld
will still receive on low voltage but will not transmit. Is this a similar
thing for the audio panel?
>
> I have yet to charge up my Odyssey battery since its delivery. Worth a
try before I tear into my wiring harness??
>
> Thanks for the help folks. Boy....do I feel helpless right now....
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Jeff Orear
> RV6A N782P (reserved)
> firewall forward etc
> Peshtigo, WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mauri Morin" <maurv8(at)bigsky.net> |
| Subject: | Fly-in Polson, Mt. |
Hey Listers,
Polson, Mt. (8S1) is having a fly-in this Sat, Aug 21.
Free breakfast to pilots and crew served from 8am.
We'll be flying Young Eagles and there'll be a
porker run mid-day and steak fry in the evening.
Plenty of space for camping.
Really like to see some RVs from eastern Wash., Idaho,
and eastern Montana come over and take advantage
of the north-west Montana hospitality.
For those not familiar with our neck of the woods,
Polson is on the south end of Flathead Lake
Hope to see/meet a bunch of you on Sat.
Mauri Morin
RV8 Wings and things
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: loose wheel bearings was brake cylinder springs |
Some of the posts on this subject refer to making small adjustments to
the compression on the bearing. The nut is held in by a large cotter
pin that goes thru a hole in each hex face of the big nut. Seems you
can only make adjustments in 60 degree increments, not 10 deg. as was
suggested in one post.
Is there any source of very thin "washers" to place under the nut? They
would have to be made from 0.010 or 0.020 sheet of AL or brass or
something. Or, does anyone have any sugestions for how to cut such a
spacer out of thin sheet?
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, Landing gear
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Matco Parking Brake Valve... |
About two years ago I received my Matco park break from Vans.
I promptly set about fitting it to my RV6-A airframe. Noticing the single
clue as to flow direction ( two arrows with the word flow on them and
further noting the lack of any diagrams or instructions I put the valve to
my lips and blew through it.
By manipulating the actuating arm I discovered that when the arm was
pointing straight down the flow rate was highest. if I moved the arm 45
degrees either forward or backward the flow was cut off. I could not
ascertain any difference in flow at the cut off points. I sized up the
firewall and decided to mount the unit dead center above the crossed
reinforcement angles and out of interference range with the rudder pedal
assembly. After making a couple of almost Rube Goldberg mounting
contraptions I settled on what I thought would work.
I was unwilling to dismantle the unit and instead let myself assume that
this unit was fairly simple internally. I spent considerable time making a
work of art out of the install and went on to other things.
I found it interesting to see all the recent postings regarding this Matco
mystery. Upon viewing the Matco diagram link that was posted I discovered
that my Matco park brake valve appeared to be in contravention of the rules
set out on that diagram.
I went down to the garage (RV lair) and pulled apart my previous handiwork
to assess the validity of my memory as to the position of the arm and its
relationship to effecting flow.
After looking at my unit I am now certain that the arm functions as I have
described earlier. (phew)
Upon studying (
http://matco.elixirlabs.com/users/matco/images/mastercylinder23a.jpg I feel
reassured that at least I got some fine engineering for the bucks I spent.
(;-)
However after looking at the internal diagram
http://matco.elixirlabs.com/users/matco/images/IM27a.jpg ) I am trying hard
to be sure if the arm is meant to swing forward or back from (in my case)
the bottom center open position. I am calling the side of the unit with the
pipe thread openings the forward side. (in this case facing the control
panel)
Did I get an oddball unit? (I haven't seen any other mention of my type of
arm positioning)
Which way to actuate the control arm?
Did I miss a part number on the unit somewhere?
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Taylor" <mtaylo17(at)msn.com>
Subject: RV-List: Matco Parking Brake Valve...
>
> Not necessarily a better builder! Mine came in a paper bag too, and I was
> surprised to find the lever swivel a full 360! To satisfy my
inquisitiveness
> about all things mechanical, it was either a) dismantle it like all my
> childhood toys, or 2) search the web for documentation... I did find the
> drawing before I mounted mine.
>
> Anyways, if anyone decides to build the external stops like mine, be aware
> that the arm does protrude slightly into the mounting face of the valve. I
> seem to remember noticing this at an inopportune time while attempting to
> fasten it all together!
>
> If anyone want's a better resolution image than the one on my website,
feel
> free to email a request to me.
>
> Since I can still just about see the valve, I may even be able to remove
it
> and take some pictures of the actual parts, and the scrap I made it from.
>
> Mark.
> RV-7 QB going really slowly...
> 8 weeks to finish kit arrival!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | loose wheel bearings was brake cylinder springs |
1 1/4" hole saw and tin snips/belt sander seem to work well for me.
Alternative is a fly-cutter, but the other way has worked well for me. The
"thin washers" are standard acceptable practice for minute adjustments.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
http://www.steinair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of thomas a.
sargent
Subject: Re: RV-List: loose wheel bearings was brake cylinder springs
Some of the posts on this subject refer to making small adjustments to
the compression on the bearing. The nut is held in by a large cotter
pin that goes thru a hole in each hex face of the big nut. Seems you
can only make adjustments in 60 degree increments, not 10 deg. as was
suggested in one post.
Is there any source of very thin "washers" to place under the nut? They
would have to be made from 0.010 or 0.020 sheet of AL or brass or
something. Or, does anyone have any sugestions for how to cut such a
spacer out of thin sheet?
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, Landing gear
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fly-in Polson, Mt. |
| From: | "Jamie Painter" <jdpainter(at)jpainter.org> |
> Free breakfast to pilots and crew served from 8am.
> We'll be flying Young Eagles and there'll be a
> porker run mid-day and steak fry in the evening.
> Plenty of space for camping.
Hey, don't you know it's impolite to go chasing us fat people around? I mean,
I know we need excercise, but having a porker run is just a little much. :-)
--
Jamie D. Painter
RV-7A wings N622JP (reserved)
http://rv.jpainter.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net> |
| Subject: | Performance Engines |
I have purchased two engines from them now. RV-10 and a Super Cub.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary Lineberry
Subject: RV-List: Performance Engines
-->
Has anyone had dealings with Performance Engines in La Verne, California?
How would you rate their products and service?
Thanks,
Gary Lineberry
RV-8 QB
N48GG reserved
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net> |
| Subject: | brake cylinder springs |
Quick and dirty way is to use a small hose clamp above the spring,
preloading it a little.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Knicholas2(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: brake cylinder springs
Hi all! I am having trouble with dragging brakes in my newly flying 9A.
The pedals have full and free motion but they still drag. I read in the
archives about replacing the return springs with longer-stronger ones. THe
question:
how easy (difficult?) and messy of a job is that? I am finding it harder
and harder to climb under that panel!!! (... an aging thing....)
Kim Nicholas
RV9A - flying.
Seattle
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Jurotich <mjurotich(at)hst.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: Hurricane and tie-down |
In addition to airplanes I have a life. When Isabel was bearing down on
Maryland many, many folk flew their planes to Ohio and took a mini vacation
or rented a car and drove back and then back to Ohio for their planes. I
double tied my 6 down with independent ground attach points and took care
of important business.
Matthew M. Jurotich
NASA/Goddard Space Flight Center
Swales contractor to the
JWST ISIM Systems Engineer
m/c : 443
e-mail mail to:
phone : 301-286-5919
fax : 301-286-7021
JWST URL: <http://ngst1.gsfc.nasa.gov
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hurricane and tie-down |
Glen Matejcek wrote:
>
> Hi all-
>
> I'm not a Floridian, nor do I play one on TV, but this exchange got me
> thinking- Why don't you guys in FL get to know the guys in AL or MS? An
> appropriate time before landfall, the guy in harms way flies his plane to a
> fellow RVer's home field, and the second fella ferries the other back to
> his family. Both guys get to fly, the spouse doesn't have to drive, the
> job gets done relatively quickly, and you are all part of a mutual support
> buddy system instead of flaming each other?
I can hear *my* wife saying, "You're gonna fly our RV *INTO* an area
where there is an approaching hurricane?!?". ;-)
Sam Buchanan (RVer and Alabamian)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob 1" <rv3a(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EGT/CHT question |
>
> I'd be willing to bet big money that your uneven temps are mostly due to
> uneven mixture distribution between cylinders -carburetors are lousy at
evenly
> feeding all the cyls. Some of your cylinders are consequently burning more
fuel
> and doing more work -trying to bring them in line with cooling flow is
like
> treating the symptom, not the cause -but it still might not be a bad idea.
>
> You might even notice that your hottest cylinder moves around as you
change
> power settings...
>
> just a trait of Marvel Schebler (and many other) carbs ...
>
> Scott
> N4ZW
===============================
Not exactly the fault of MS or any carb.
Install a carb on each cylinder... [or calibrated FI]
and the problem can be remedied.
The MAJOR culprit is the INTAKE MANIFOLD,
and the laws of physics with carb systems
In my case, the early style RV-3 ram air design
made the uneven fuel distribution even worse.
Bob -
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Hansen" <RV7(at)gunsite.to> |
| Subject: | Your Big Mistake - Your Big Chance |
There is good information on this list much of the time, but it seems too
often loaded down with the chit chat of folks who want to use it as a forum
to offer opinions that have nothing to do with RVs. Like many others, I
hate it that I have to wade through tons of, "Hurricane and tie-down"
dribble to find RV stuff. Not to pick on these guys, there has been plenty
of other dribble as well. An RV lands on a road and somebody has tell us
how, in the good old days, he flew pelicans out Uruguay and had to land in
the trees. Who cares? But, that stimulates some other lonely soul to want
to tell his story and we care even less. I could go on for pages about the
personal charges and defenses mounted about everything, but mostly about
someone being so thin skinned as to be insulted by someone else's remark.
This list can be useful, but if it's not useful if it's not about
RV-specific helpful information. This is not about list cops. It's about
having the good sense and courteously to understand why the majority of
folks are here and why some RV builders I've talked with say it's a waste of
time. This list should be about building and flying RVs. If you don't use
some restraint and common sense, this list will end up like most of the
others. It will have a few hangers-on who spend their days chatting about
their exploits and wondering why more people aren't interested enough to
participate in an RV list.
Now whine and make all your excuses and tell me I can go somewhere else
while you tie up even more space with wasted key strokes. Or, you could
decide that this is a helpful and informative RV list and bring back the
folks who are interested in building and flying RVs. Good luck!
Robert Hansen
Denver, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kathleen (rv7)" <Kathleen(at)rv7.us> |
| Subject: | Your Big Mistake - Your Big Chance |
I'm glad someone finally said it!
Kathleen Evans
Folsom, CA
www.rv7.us
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert Hansen
Subject: RV-List: Your Big Mistake - Your Big Chance
There is good information on this list much of the time, but it seems too
often loaded down with the chit chat of folks who want to use it as a forum
to offer opinions that have nothing to do with RVs. Like many others, I
hate it that I have to wade through tons of, "Hurricane and tie-down"
dribble to find RV stuff. Not to pick on these guys, there has been plenty
of other dribble as well. An RV lands on a road and somebody has tell us
how, in the good old days, he flew pelicans out Uruguay and had to land in
the trees. Who cares? But, that stimulates some other lonely soul to want
to tell his story and we care even less. I could go on for pages about the
personal charges and defenses mounted about everything, but mostly about
someone being so thin skinned as to be insulted by someone else's remark.
This list can be useful, but if it's not useful if it's not about
RV-specific helpful information. This is not about list cops. It's about
having the good sense and courteously to understand why the majority of
folks are here and why some RV builders I've talked with say it's a waste of
time. This list should be about building and flying RVs. If you don't use
some restraint and common sense, this list will end up like most of the
others. It will have a few hangers-on who spend their days chatting about
their exploits and wondering why more people aren't interested enough to
participate in an RV list.
Now whine and make all your excuses and tell me I can go somewhere else
while you tie up even more space with wasted key strokes. Or, you could
decide that this is a helpful and informative RV list and bring back the
folks who are interested in building and flying RVs. Good luck!
Robert Hansen
Denver, CO
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
-----Original Message-----
From: John Furey [mailto:john(at)fureychrysler.com]
Subject: RV8
I have a friend that is looking for an RV8, must be first class workmanship.
Preferably IFR equipped. Send replys to john(at)fureychrysler.com or call at
330-324-2041
John Furey RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | ELT's in an RV-4 |
At annual time this year, my mechanic discovered that there is no ELT in my
RV-4. I guess that since I usually had the rear seat/seatback removed, the
previous mechanics assumed it was a single place aircraft. So... I need to
get an ELT. It seems that the choice between an Ameri-King and and ACK is
pretty much no big deal either way. But I would like to know If either has
an advantage in mounting in an RV-4. Where, in fact, is a good place to
mount the ELT. I assume the baggage compartment is acceptable, but if there
are special areas that are best, I would like to know. It seems that the
antenna mounting site has been discussed ad infinitum, so I won't go there.
Louis
-
Louis I Willig
1640 Oakwood Dr.
Penn Valley, PA 19072
610 668-4964
RV-4, N180PF
190HP IO-360, C/S prop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Cours <rv-j(at)moriarti.org> |
| Subject: | a portable flypark |
And now for something quite a bit lighter.
Those among you that dream of carrier landings, paint your RVs in Navy
markings, and so on, might want to have a look at this: a used WW II
aircraft carrier can be yours for a mere US$ 4.5 million!
<http://www.yachtworld.com/core/listing/pl_boat_full_detail.jsp;jsessionid=aaagUp1lKkPoi2?slim=quick&boat_id=1169128>
It looks like the catapult's had some problems in the past, but with a
180+ HP RV and a constant speed prop, it's not strictly necessary...
- Jeff
Let's see... cables or stringers could transfer the load from the tail
hook to the main gear weldments...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
I note in Van's accessories catalog (PDF format) that the Lasar ignition system
includes a 2600 RPM warning light when it is installed on an O-320 with a Sensenich
propeller. In late 2002, I received a factory new O-320 with the Lasar
option factory installed. At that time no such warning light was included with
my package. Perhaps Lycoming had no way of knowing what propeller I was going
to use. Anyway, I consulted with one of Van's most respected support persons
but in my opinion only, he *seemed* to convey that its value is dubious and
I'm merely paraphasing here, you be the judge................ "they only tell
you when you actually exceeded the red line, it doesn't warn you that you are
approaching the red line like a tachometer would and so the light is simply too
late to be useful in preventing overspeeds".
Makes perfect sense to me but.....................does anyone who actually has
experience with the noted engine/prop combination equipped with the Lasar system
find the warning light to be useful........or not?
Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:ELT's in an RV-4 |
I mounted my ELT on the shelf in the baggage compartment. That is space
which is good for nothing else anyway. My ELT antenna is atop the fuselage just
aft of the baggage compartment, bent to match the angle of the verticle fin
leading edge.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re:ELT's in an RV-4 |
Be sure and provide for the remote on/off/test switch. I mounted
my ELT in baggage compartment (RV6) where I could reach it so I did not
think I needed a remote mount switch but the DAR said I had to have one.
I mounted it between the seats on cross bar while he was standing there
and that was fine.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Oldsfolks(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Re:ELT's in an RV-4
I mounted my ELT on the shelf in the baggage compartment. That is space
which is good for nothing else anyway. My ELT antenna is atop the
fuselage just
aft of the baggage compartment, bent to match the angle of the verticle
fin
leading edge.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ELT's in an RV-4 |
I put mine on the side of the baggage compartment. I mounted the antenna right
next to the passenger seat back. Mounted on the floor and the antenna rises
up next to the seat back. I specifically asked the (geniune) FAA inspector if
that was an OK location or should I move it. He said it was fine. I tested
it and it works fine there.
But then I haven't tried it with the plane flipped over in the mud.
Louis Willig wrote:
At annual time this year, my mechanic discovered that there is no ELT in my
RV-4. I guess that since I usually had the rear seat/seatback removed, the
previous mechanics assumed it was a single place aircraft. So... I need to
get an ELT. It seems that the choice between an Ameri-King and and ACK is
pretty much no big deal either way. But I would like to know If either has
an advantage in mounting in an RV-4. Where, in fact, is a good place to
mount the ELT. I assume the baggage compartment is acceptable, but if there
are special areas that are best, I would like to know. It seems that the
antenna mounting site has been discussed ad infinitum, so I won't go there.
Louis
-
Louis I Willig
1640 Oakwood Dr.
Penn Valley, PA 19072
610 668-4964
RV-4, N180PF
190HP IO-360, C/S prop
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Warning light |
Rick Galati wrote:
>
>I note in Van's accessories catalog (PDF format) that the Lasar ignition system
includes a 2600 RPM warning light when it is installed on an O-320 with a Sensenich
propeller. In late 2002, I received a factory new O-320 with the Lasar
option factory installed. At that time no such warning light was included with
my package. Perhaps Lycoming had no way of knowing what propeller I was going
to use. Anyway, I consulted with one of Van's most respected support persons
but in my opinion only, he *seemed* to convey that its value is dubious and
I'm merely paraphasing here, you be the judge................ "they only tell
you when you actually exceeded the red line, it doesn't warn you that you are
approaching the red line like a tachometer would and so the light is simply
too late to be useful in preventing overspeeds".
>
>Makes perfect sense to me but.....................does anyone who actually has
experience with the noted engine/prop combination equipped with the Lasar system
find the warning light to be useful........or not?
>
>Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
>
Dubious indeed. When I balance props I find the mechanical tachs read
about 100 RPM or more low. This means that thousands of engines are run
over redline all the time with no ill effects. The more we know about
what's really happening, the more we panic. For whatever reasons we add
CHT and EGT systems only to find out we've been running hot for years
.... so we spend inordinate amounts of time/money/energy trying to get
those temps back in line. In this case, the tach light goes on while
the mechanical tach reads 2500. Now what do you do??? I'd be much more
confident in having a warning light that would get my attention and warn
me of low oil pressure/level .... low fuel .... you get my drift ....
things that really matter!!!
Linn
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | lightspeed ignition for sale |
I have a Lightspeed electronic ignition
for sale. Never installed with the mag drive
senxor, plug leads and plugs with adapters.
Will take $900 for the system.
Stewart, RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ELT's in an RV-4 |
> But then I haven't tried it with the plane flipped over in the mud.
>
I have, for a whole night, with the antenna mounted horizontally underneath
the empennage fairing.
It worked faithfully all night long, with its bleating "help me, help me"
warble being picked up by satellite on every passd despite being on the
wrong side of the horizontal stabilizer.
According to the rescue co-ordination centre, anyways.
I did not have the remote panel switch for the ELT, which would have made
resetting it much easier.
Scott in Vancouver
-6, still reassembling
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Taylor" <mtaylo17(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Matco Parking Brake Valve |
Gents,
I have posted some better images on my website of my valve mounting. Find
them on the fuselage page. Click "Skip to Latest" to get to it quicker.
http://home.comcast.net/~mtaylo17/RV7/
Mark Taylor
RV-7 Slow QB!
From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Matco Parking Brake Valve...
About two years ago I received my Matco park break from Vans.
I promptly set about fitting it to my RV6-A airframe. Noticing the single
clue as to flow direction ( two arrows with the word flow on them and
further noting the lack of any diagrams or instructions I put the valve to
my lips and blew through it.
By manipulating the actuating arm I discovered that when the arm was
pointing straight down the flow rate was highest. if I moved the arm 45
degrees either forward or backward the flow was cut off. I could not
ascertain any difference in flow at the cut off points. I sized up the
firewall and decided to mount the unit dead center above the crossed
reinforcement angles and out of interference range with the rudder pedal
assembly. After making a couple of almost Rube Goldberg mounting
contraptions I settled on what I thought would work.
I was unwilling to dismantle the unit and instead let myself assume that
this unit was fairly simple internally. I spent considerable time making a
work of art out of the install and went on to other things.
I found it interesting to see all the recent postings regarding this Matco
mystery. Upon viewing the Matco diagram link that was posted I discovered
that my Matco park brake valve appeared to be in contravention of the rules
set out on that diagram.
I went down to the garage (RV lair) and pulled apart my previous handiwork
to assess the validity of my memory as to the position of the arm and its
relationship to effecting flow.
After looking at my unit I am now certain that the arm functions as I have
described earlier. (phew)
Upon studying (
http://matco.elixirlabs.com/users/matco/images/mastercylinder23a.jpg I feel
reassured that at least I got some fine engineering for the bucks I spent.
(;-)
However after looking at the internal diagram
http://matco.elixirlabs.com/users/matco/images/IM27a.jpg ) I am trying hard
to be sure if the arm is meant to swing forward or back from (in my case)
the bottom center open position. I am calling the side of the unit with the
pipe thread openings the forward side. (in this case facing the control
panel)
Did I get an oddball unit? (I haven't seen any other mention of my type of
arm positioning)
Which way to actuate the control arm?
Did I miss a part number on the unit somewhere?
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Taylor" <mtaylo17(at)msn.com>
Subject: RV-List: Matco Parking Brake Valve...
>
>Not necessarily a better builder! Mine came in a paper bag too, and I was
>surprised to find the lever swivel a full 360! To satisfy my
inquisitiveness
>about all things mechanical, it was either a) dismantle it like all my
>childhood toys, or 2) search the web for documentation... I did find the
>drawing before I mounted mine.
>
>Anyways, if anyone decides to build the external stops like mine, be aware
>that the arm does protrude slightly into the mounting face of the valve. I
>seem to remember noticing this at an inopportune time while attempting to
>fasten it all together!
>
>If anyone want's a better resolution image than the one on my website,
feel
>free to email a request to me.
>
>Since I can still just about see the valve, I may even be able to remove
it
>and take some pictures of the actual parts, and the scrap I made it from.
>
>Mark.
>RV-7 QB going really slowly...
>8 weeks to finish kit arrival!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ELT's in an RV-4 |
You weren't in it then? I hope?
Do flying stories count as drivel? Would I be rabble if I wanted to hear it?
Jaye and Scott Jackson wrote:
> But then I haven't tried it with the plane flipped over in the mud.
>
I have, for a whole night, with the antenna mounted horizontally underneath
the empennage fairing.
It worked faithfully all night long, with its bleating "help me, help me"
warble being picked up by satellite on every passd despite being on the
wrong side of the horizontal stabilizer.
According to the rescue co-ordination centre, anyways.
I did not have the remote panel switch for the ELT, which would have made
resetting it much easier.
Scott in Vancouver
-6, still reassembling
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "steve blackwell" <n10557(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | ELT's in an RV-4 |
I had two Ameri Kings that lasted just over one year each and then just quit
passing test. (no RF)
The ACK is smaller and is still going strong after 3 years. I fly 3 to 4 hrs
most very day.
I will not buy Ameri king again.
Steve
>From: Louis Willig <larywil(at)comcast.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: ELT's in an RV-4
>Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2004 16:10:24 -0400
>
>
>At annual time this year, my mechanic discovered that there is no ELT in my
>RV-4. I guess that since I usually had the rear seat/seatback removed, the
>previous mechanics assumed it was a single place aircraft. So... I need to
>get an ELT. It seems that the choice between an Ameri-King and and ACK is
>pretty much no big deal either way. But I would like to know If either has
>an advantage in mounting in an RV-4. Where, in fact, is a good place to
>mount the ELT. I assume the baggage compartment is acceptable, but if there
>are special areas that are best, I would like to know. It seems that the
>antenna mounting site has been discussed ad infinitum, so I won't go there.
>
>Louis
>
>
>-
>Louis I Willig
>1640 Oakwood Dr.
>Penn Valley, PA 19072
>610 668-4964
>RV-4, N180PF
>190HP IO-360, C/S prop
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ELT's in an RV-4 |
Jaye and Scott Jackson wrote:
>
>No sir, you can read about it in an article on the WWWing website entitled,
>"The Day the Imitutor fell from the Sky".
>
Would you elaborate on WWWing website?
Linn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Pichon" <DeanPichon(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Anyone using an Aerospace Logic Fuel Gage? |
I recently installed an Aerospace Logic fuel gage. The installation
works great except when the engine is running. This is rather
problematic for a fuel gage. The people at Aerospace Logic tell me the
problem is due to a "noisy" electrical system in my -4. They sent to me
an external electrical filter to solve the problem. The filter is quite
large and heavy so I am reluctant to install it behind the panel per the
instructions. The new units they are now shipping include an integral
filter. Has anyone else had "noise" problems with the Aerospace Logic
Fuel gages?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Sneed <n242ds(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | oil cooler crack |
My baffle is cracked where the oil cooler attaches. I would like to fix
it correctly. Does anyone have a picture of how they fixed this issue?
I found this by searching the list but the link is dead and the email
address is invalid.
Thanks,
Jason Sneed
Commercial Lending Officer
First National Bank and Trust
In the past, people have discussed how baffle mounted coolers vibrate
too
much and cause cracks in the baffling, or come close to coming off all
together. I have designed an additional support that I think will
solve the
problem. We will see, but it seems to make the baffle pretty much
indestructible. I have an 0-360 A2A dynafocal, so I do not know if it
work
on any other engine, but see for yourself. Any comments on how I can
improve this or if it has been tried before are welcome.
It is at:
http://members.home.net/rv8er/engine.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: oil cooler crack |
http://www.rvproject.com/20040721.html
That link shows some photos of my recent enhancements to the oil
cooler/baffle area. Specifically the 3rd photo down. It's my experience
that if you don't brace your oil cooler in some fashion and/or beef up the
left rear corner, you will eventually see cracking at the weak points.
If you have a carbureted engine, the top of your case should be relatively
clear so you can brace from the case half bolts instead of the cylinder head
boss like I did -- with my flow divider and distribution tubes running
across the top of the engine, having a clear run to the case half joint
wasn't really feasible.
Hope this helps,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jason Sneed" <n242ds(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV-List: oil cooler crack
>
> My baffle is cracked where the oil cooler attaches. I would like to fix
> it correctly. Does anyone have a picture of how they fixed this issue?
> I found this by searching the list but the link is dead and the email
> address is invalid.
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Jason Sneed
> Commercial Lending Officer
> First National Bank and Trust
>
>
> In the past, people have discussed how baffle mounted coolers vibrate
> too
> much and cause cracks in the baffling, or come close to coming off all
> together. I have designed an additional support that I think will
> solve the
> problem. We will see, but it seems to make the baffle pretty much
> indestructible. I have an 0-360 A2A dynafocal, so I do not know if it
> work
> on any other engine, but see for yourself. Any comments on how I can
> improve this or if it has been tried before are welcome.
>
> It is at:
>
> http://members.home.net/rv8er/engine.htm
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Mcmahon <rv6(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | EXP EN-CODE & TRANSPONDER FAR |
RV LIST DAR..
Could some one state the FAR that say's that we (rv builders) must
have our transponder and encoder certified..
John McMahon (RV6 near paint)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
, ,
,
| Subject: | 4th Annual Coastal Georgia Fall Fly In |
Greetings:
Mark your flying schedule for Saturday October 16. That's the date for the
4th annual Coastal Georgia Fall Fly In.
Place: Eagle Neck Airpark 1GA0 located on the Georgia coastline half way
between Savannah and St. Simons Island.
Barbeque is served around noon. Eagle Neck is home to 3 completed RVs and 3
more under construction including a 10. Any type aircraft welcome. Make a
weekend of it and tour Savannah, book some great off shore fishing or tidal
marsh canoeing.
Please RSVP to the sender for more information, airport briefing etc.
Dick Sipp
RV4 250DS
RV10 110DV #65
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Mcmahon <rv6(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | EAA 863 Annual RV Fall Classic fly-in |
We will again have our Annual RV Fly-in Sept 18th with those who wish to
get Mike Seager check out will be with us again this year..I have slots
open Sept 17,18 and 19 th.. Our site is M54 20 miles east of Nashville,Tn
John McMahon RV6
Gallatin,Tn
Home # 615-452-8742
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ELT's in an RV-4 |
linn walters wrote:
>
>Jaye and Scott Jackson wrote:
>
>
>
>>No sir, you can read about it in an article on the WWWing website entitled,
>>"The Day the Imitutor fell from the Sky".
>>
>>
>>
>Would you elaborate on WWWing website?
>Linn
>
>
>
http://www.vansairforce.net/ = Vans Air Force World Wide Wing
Here's the link to Scott's artical:
http://www.vansairforce.net/articles/Imitutor.htm
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ELT's in an RV-4 |
I found the article here:
http://vansairforce.net/articles/Imitutor.htm
--- linn walters wrote:
>
>
> Jaye and Scott Jackson wrote:
>
> >
> >No sir, you can read about it in an article on the
> WWWing website entitled,
> >"The Day the Imitutor fell from the Sky".
> >
> Would you elaborate on WWWing website?
> Linn
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | EXP EN-CODE & TRANSPONDER FAR |
FAR 91.413 require the 24-month tests and inspections on ALL aircraft that
have ATC Transponder.
FAR 91.215 (a) says it must meet the performance and environmental
requirements of TSO-C74b orTSO-C74c. (It does not say it MUST be TSO'ed.)
Even if you are an AB EXPERIMENTAL, you MUST have a certificated repair
station do the work. FAR 91.413(c)(1). We are not technically the
manufacturer in the eyes of the FAA that would allow us to do it under FAR
91.413(c)(3)
Yes I am one of EAA's Volunteer AB DAR's from the first training class. My
MIDO office requires that it be done before I can issue your Special
Airworthiness Certificate and Operating Limitations.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,570 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: John Mcmahon <rv6(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: EXP EN-CODE & TRANSPONDER FAR
Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2004 22:00:41 -0500
RV LIST DAR..
Could some one state the FAR that say's that we (rv builders) must
have our transponder and encoder certified..
John McMahon (RV6 near paint)
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Huft" <rv8(at)lazy8.net> |
| Subject: | Hartzell prop for sale |
I guess this would be a good time to offer for sale:
A used, 10 hours since overhaul, Hartzell HC-C2YK-1BF 74" constant speed
2-blade prop.
Overhauled by Porterfield Propellers in Lubbock, TX, 10/30/03. Has FAA form
8130-3 from them. Blades were ground down below specs, so the prop is
experimental only. Logbook was lost.
I bought this prop on ebay to bring my airplane home after another prop
malfunctioned. I have replaced it with a new "blended airfoil" prop from
Van's. I flew the 10 hours bringing it home and testing it. It performed
equal to a $10K AeroComp prop, though it weighs 18 lbs more.
Offered to listers before I put it on ebay, $3500, you pay the shipping. A
reduced cost way to the land of constant speed props.
John Huft
Pagosa Springs, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bertrv6(at)highstream.net |
| Subject: | Parachutes, any record |
Hi:
I have notice, that some people use parachute on the first flight,some
do not. Is any actual record anywhere, of any RV breaking up, during first
flight?
Has any one, ever jumpped from an RV, using a parachute?
I cannot find anything on this from the Rvator..or really a suggestions as
to, if one should or should not wear parachute on first flight..
Since I am getting close to this time, would like to have some concrete
comments on the subject.
Thanks for your comments
Bert
RV6A
Do Not Archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <tomvelvick(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Aerospace Logic fuel gauge |
I installed one of the first aerospace logic fuel gauges in my rv-4 and have had
no problems. I do have all of my grounds tied into a common point on the firewall.
Can you turn your electricial items off one at a time and isolate which
item is causing the interference with the fuel gauge?
Regards,
Tom Velvick
>>I recently installed an Aerospace Logic fuel gage. The installation works great
except when the engine is running. This is rather problematic for a fuel gage.
The people at Aerospace Logic tell me the problem is due to a "noisy" electrical
system in my -4. They sent to me an external electrical filter to solve
the problem. The filter is quite
large and heavy so I am reluctant to install it behind the panel per the instructions.
The new units they are now shipping include an integral filter. Has anyone
else had "noise" problems with the Aerospace Logic Fuel gages?<<
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: EXP EN-CODE & TRANSPONDER FAR |
I believe that we are the manufacturer BUT the cost of the test equipment is
such that it doesn't make sense for the single builder or manufacturer to
test and certify. Remember the test equipment must also be checked and
certified.
Cy Galley
Safety Programs Editor
Always looking for ideas and articles for EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: EXP EN-CODE & TRANSPONDER FAR
>
> FAR 91.413 require the 24-month tests and inspections on ALL aircraft that
> have ATC Transponder.
>
> FAR 91.215 (a) says it must meet the performance and environmental
> requirements of TSO-C74b orTSO-C74c. (It does not say it MUST be TSO'ed.)
>
> Even if you are an AB EXPERIMENTAL, you MUST have a certificated repair
> station do the work. FAR 91.413(c)(1). We are not technically the
> manufacturer in the eyes of the FAA that would allow us to do it under FAR
> 91.413(c)(3)
>
> Yes I am one of EAA's Volunteer AB DAR's from the first training class.
My
> MIDO office requires that it be done before I can issue your Special
> Airworthiness Certificate and Operating Limitations.
>
>
> Gary A. Sobek
> "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
> 1,570 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
> http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
>
>
> ----Original Message Follows----
> From: John Mcmahon <rv6(at)earthlink.net>
> To: RV LIST
> Subject: RV-List: EXP EN-CODE & TRANSPONDER FAR
> Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2004 22:00:41 -0500
>
>
> RV LIST DAR..
> Could some one state the FAR that say's that we (rv builders) must
> have our transponder and encoder certified..
>
> John McMahon (RV6 near paint)
>
> http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Anyone using an Aerospace Logic Fuel Gage? |
I have one of the early units, and have had no noise problems. I did
have a problem with it dropping off line during startup, but that
problem was traced to the huge voltage drop caused by the lightweight
Skytec permanent magnet starter. Replaced that starter and problem solved.
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Coldenhoff <rv9a_000(at)deru.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EXP EN-CODE & TRANSPONDER FAR |
RV6 Flyer wrote:
> FAR 91.413 require the 24-month tests and inspections on ALL aircraft that
> have ATC Transponder.
>
> FAR 91.215 (a) says it must meet the performance and environmental
> requirements of TSO-C74b orTSO-C74c. (It does not say it MUST be TSO'ed.)
>
...
> MIDO office requires that it be done before I can issue your Special
> Airworthiness Certificate and Operating Limitations.
Gary -
I doubt it would make sense to withhold the airworthiness cert
for this issue since it is entirely possible that an aircraft
can be assembled at an airfield with no certified repair station
nearby. That is one reason we can call ATC and get a waiver for
flying into the mode C veil with a "non-functioning" transponder.
Since we can't do these tests without the right equipment, you seem
to be saying that we must complete final assembly of our aircraft at
an airfield with a certified test station or be denied the airworthiness
cert., yet this simply isn't the case since so many people fall
into this category and yet have received their cert.
Could you clarify your last statement with respect to this scenario?
Thanks.
--
Tim Coldenhoff
#90338 - Finishing!
http://rv9a.deru.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | EXP EN-CODE & TRANSPONDER FAR |
For the transponder check out FAR 91.413. For the atlitude reporting
equipment (encoder) checkout 91.411. They say that the inspections must be
completed every two years.
I hope that is what you are asking about.
Mike Robertson
>From: John Mcmahon <rv6(at)earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: RV LIST
>Subject: RV-List: EXP EN-CODE & TRANSPONDER FAR
>Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2004 22:00:41 -0500
>
>
>RV LIST DAR..
>Could some one state the FAR that say's that we (rv builders) must
>have our transponder and encoder certified..
>
> John McMahon (RV6 near paint)
>
>
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Parachutes, any record |
I wore a chute on first flights not for structural problems but for fire...
and it's just one more option you have available should "something" happen.
Bryan Jones -8
www.LoneStarSquadron.com
Houston, Texas
>
> I have notice, that some people use parachute on the first flight,some
>do not. Is any actual record anywhere, of any RV breaking up, during
>first
>flight?
>
> Has any one, ever jumpped from an RV, using a parachute?
>
> I cannot find anything on this from the Rvator..or really a suggestions
>as
>to, if one should or should not wear parachute on first flight..
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris W <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm(at)cox.net> |
I was looking at the recommended break pluming on the Matco site here
http://matco.elixirlabs.com/users/matco/images/mastercylinder20a.jpg
That doesn't seem like the best way to do it to me. Basically they have
the pilot and copilot brakes set up in series, I think you would want
them in parallel. Doing it in series means you have to over come twice
the spring pressure. In the case of the copilot you have more suction
holding back the cylinder, if the suction gets too high (like if some
how the pilots pedals got stuck) in a hydraulic system you can get
cavitation which is really bad. The only advantage to this system that
I can see is with both the pilot and copilot putting pressure on the
pedals you can get twice the braking force (I'm not sure that would ever
really be an advantage though). I am having a hard time thinking of any
disadvantages to having it hooked up in parallel.
--
Chris W
Bring Back the HP 15C
http://hp15c.org
Not getting the gifts you want? The Wish Zone can help.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
How are you going to prevent back flow to the CP side when the pilots
brakes are applied if they are plumbed in parallel? Without some kind of
checkvalve system you'll not get any brake pressure at all.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris W
Subject: RV-List: Brake pluming
<1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm(at)cox.net>
I was looking at the recommended break pluming on the Matco site here
http://matco.elixirlabs.com/users/matco/images/mastercylinder20a.jpg
That doesn't seem like the best way to do it to me. Basically they have
the pilot and copilot brakes set up in series, I think you would want
them in parallel. Doing it in series means you have to over come twice
the spring pressure. In the case of the copilot you have more suction
holding back the cylinder, if the suction gets too high (like if some
how the pilots pedals got stuck) in a hydraulic system you can get
cavitation which is really bad. The only advantage to this system that
I can see is with both the pilot and copilot putting pressure on the
pedals you can get twice the braking force (I'm not sure that would ever
really be an advantage though). I am having a hard time thinking of any
disadvantages to having it hooked up in parallel.
--
Chris W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake pluming |
You will not have to overcome the second master
cylinder spring pressure in the "series" set up. When
the master cylinder is in the "off" position the brake
fluid applied to the "inlet" port will free flow
throught the cylinder. IF this wasn't the case, the
fluid reservoir would be completely useless.
I think that the Matco drawing is misleading because
it makes it look like the piston always "blocks" the
inlet port. I believe that when the brakes are
completely off, the piston is actually above the port.
--- Chris W <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm(at)cox.net>
wrote:
> <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm(at)cox.net>
>
> I was looking at the recommended break pluming on
> the Matco site here
>
>
http://matco.elixirlabs.com/users/matco/images/mastercylinder20a.jpg
>
> That doesn't seem like the best way to do it to me.
> Basically they have
> the pilot and copilot brakes set up in series, I
> think you would want
> them in parallel. Doing it in series means you have
> to over come twice
> the spring pressure. In the case of the copilot you
> have more suction
> holding back the cylinder, if the suction gets too
> high (like if some
> how the pilots pedals got stuck) in a hydraulic
> system you can get
> cavitation which is really bad. The only advantage
> to this system that
> I can see is with both the pilot and copilot putting
> pressure on the
> pedals you can get twice the braking force (I'm not
> sure that would ever
> really be an advantage though). I am having a hard
> time thinking of any
> disadvantages to having it hooked up in parallel.
>
> --
> Chris W
>
> Bring Back the HP 15C
> http://hp15c.org
>
> Not getting the gifts you want? The Wish Zone can
> help.
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Bibb" <rebibb(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Paint Color site |
For anyone who is trying to figure out what color to paint their bird or
what the name of a particular color they like on some vehicle driving by I
offer up this site:
http://www.autocolorlibrary.com/scripts/depot.exe?pgm=aclgate.bbx
It has paint colors from almost every auto manufacturer for almost as long
as cars have been made.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EXP EN-CODE & TRANSPONDER FAR |
Tim:
Re-read the last statement. It means what it says.
If you read the regulations, you MUST have it done before you fly. Of the
last 6 inspections that I have had done, there are repair stations on the
field that do this kind of work. Gerdes Aviation at Fullertion also will
TRAVEL to your location to do the work. Brian did my last inspection and
test on a Saturday morning where the shop on my field was not open. His
price was the same as the shop on the field and he came to my hangar. Those
in SoCAL can take advantage of Brian's services at their airport.
I understand the regulations that you do not need the work done to get the
airworthiness certificate but the office I work out of wants it done. Will
(or Should) the FAA or the DAR take your word for it that you will get it
done?
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,570 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: Tim Coldenhoff <rv9a_000(at)deru.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: EXP EN-CODE & TRANSPONDER FAR
Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2004 08:15:23 -0700
RV6 Flyer wrote:
> FAR 91.413 require the 24-month tests and inspections on ALL aircraft
that
> have ATC Transponder.
>
> FAR 91.215 (a) says it must meet the performance and environmental
> requirements of TSO-C74b orTSO-C74c. (It does not say it MUST be
TSO'ed.)
>
...
> MIDO office requires that it be done before I can issue your Special
> Airworthiness Certificate and Operating Limitations.
Gary -
I doubt it would make sense to withhold the airworthiness cert
for this issue since it is entirely possible that an aircraft
can be assembled at an airfield with no certified repair station
nearby. That is one reason we can call ATC and get a waiver for
flying into the mode C veil with a "non-functioning" transponder.
Since we can't do these tests without the right equipment, you seem
to be saying that we must complete final assembly of our aircraft at
an airfield with a certified test station or be denied the airworthiness
cert., yet this simply isn't the case since so many people fall
into this category and yet have received their cert.
Could you clarify your last statement with respect to this scenario?
Thanks.
--
Tim Coldenhoff
#90338 - Finishing!
http://rv9a.deru.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John DeCuir <jadecuir(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Turn & Slip needed |
My electric T & B seized up yesterday. And it was just serviced in '92!
I've shipped it off for repair, but the outcome is dependent on parts
(old R.C. Allen) availability. If anyone has a 2 1/4" elec. T&B they're
not going to use, let me know. Any fair price considered.
John DeCuir
N204CP, RV-4
Salinas, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "steve dinieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | avionics dealers |
anyone have a shortlist of experimental friendly avionics dealers? i know
john stark is doing well, but i remember a post a while back about another
guy.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Coldenhoff <rv9a_000(at)deru.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EXP EN-CODE & TRANSPONDER FAR |
RV6 Flyer wrote:
> Re-read the last statement. It means what it says.
No offense intended, but I re-read it a couple of times and it seemed far
enough off base that I had to question it.
> I understand the regulations that you do not need the work done to get the
> airworthiness certificate but the office I work out of wants it done. Will
> (or Should) the FAA or the DAR take your word for it that you will get it
> done?
That's interesting. I guess in this case it sounds like a typical example
of your local office overriding the printed regs. I guess I am still trying
to get used to that idea. :-(
As for wether my word (or anybody elses, for that matter) is good enough, well,
does the FAA and/or DAR take my word that I will fly within the operating limitations
and other rules, and that I will perform/purchase annual inspections, and get BFRs,
and etc etc...? Isn't that why we have logbooks and ramp checks?
In any event, I will make it a point to ask my DAR about this before my inspection.
--
Tim Coldenhoff
#90338 - Finishing!
http://rv9a.deru.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Bibb" <rebibb(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EXP EN-CODE & TRANSPONDER FAR |
Typical mindlessness.
If the aircraft is or could be located at an airport outside of an area that
requires a Mode C transponder for the first flight the simplest thing might
be to just remove the thing, go fly, and then fly it to someplace to get the
necessary transponder check done. Heck you could probably get a waiver from
the FSDO to fly to a place within Class B or Class C to get it done.
Anywhere but the People Republic of California and the DC area where, due to
the stupid ADIZ and a certain Governor of KY's aircraft that caused a mild
stir in June, all such waivers are henceforth canceled.
For every mindless government imposition there is usually an equally
illogical loophole to be driven, or in this case, flown through.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John D. Heath" <alto_q(at)direcway.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EXP EN-CODE & TRANSPONDER FAR (VERY LONG) |
----- Original Message -----
From: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com>
I don,t want to horn in here but, after having read the Regs' a few
hundred times, here's my 2 Cents.
Sec. 91.205 (b) [Day VFR]
Does not require a Tranponder be installed.
Sec. 91.215
ATC transponder and altitude reporting equipment and use.
(a) All airspace: U.S.-registered civil aircraft. ...ATC transponder
equipment installed must meet the performance...
<<<<<< key word here "installed" >>>>>>>>
(b) All airspace. Unless otherwise authorized or directed by ATC...
<<<<<>>>>>>>
(d) ATC authorized deviations. Requests for ATC authorized deviations must
be made to the ATC facility having jurisdiction over the concerned airspace
within the time periods specified as follows:
(1) For operation of an aircraft with an operating transponder but without
operating automatic pressure altitude reporting equipment having a Mode C
capability, the request may be made at any time.
(2) For operation of an aircraft with an inoperative transponder to the
airport of ultimate destination, including any intermediate stops, or to
proceed to a place where suitable repairs can be made or both, the request
may be made at any time.
(3) For operation of an aircraft that is not equipped with a transponder,
the request must be made at least one hour before the proposed operation.
<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>
Sec. 91.413
ATC transponder tests and inspections.
(a) No persons may use an ATC transponder ... unless, within the preceding
24 calendar months, the ATC transponder has been tested and inspected and
found to comply with appendix F of part 43 of this chapter; and
(b) Following any installation or maintenance on an ATC transponder where
data correspondence error could be introduced, the integrated system has
been tested, inspected, and found to comply with paragraph (c), appendix E,
of part 43 of this chapter.
<<<<<<< I think a newly constructed amateur built aircraft, which is
otherwise certifyable,quillifies under this subsection>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
(c) The tests and inspections specified in this section must be conducted
by--
(1) A certificated repair station properly equipped to perform those
functions and holding--
(i) A radio rating, Class III;
(ii) A limited radio rating appropriate to the make and model transponder to
be tested;
(iii) A limited rating appropriate to the test to be performed;
[(iv) deleted]
(2) A holder of a continuous airworthiness maintenance program as provided
in part 121 or Sec. 135.411(a)(2) of this chapter; or
(3) The manufacturer of the aircraft on which the transponder to be tested
is installed, if the transponder was installed by that manufacturer.
All that being said, I don't see how ATC would ever grant permisson to
leave an airfield with an authorized test Facility. Aircraft being built at
the end of Runway "PLUM 40", Surely would be Cleared to make that one time
flight.
So far as taking anybodies word, I guess that just isn't done any more. In
this case not necessary, the path is clear.
John D.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:Parachutes, any record |
I have flown initial test flights on 6-or 7 RV's without a parachute. I was
very familiar with the builder and building on them though. I have had no
problems.
I was testing a new controllable pitch propeller on our RV-4 and I wore the
'chute on those flights. On the third flight the prop shed part of one blade
and I thought the engine would depart. That was about 50 feet above the runway
on take-off. I got it down with minimal damage and no damage to me.
I don't mind wearing the parachute.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop for sale |
Hi John
how much are they ground down??
Gert
p.s.
See you survived the "Custom Parking Camping Bruhaa" for another year ;-)
John Huft wrote:
>
> I guess this would be a good time to offer for sale:
>
> A used, 10 hours since overhaul, Hartzell HC-C2YK-1BF 74" constant speed
> 2-blade prop.
>
> Overhauled by Porterfield Propellers in Lubbock, TX, 10/30/03. Has FAA form
> 8130-3 from them. Blades were ground down below specs, so the prop is
> experimental only. Logbook was lost.
>
> I bought this prop on ebay to bring my airplane home after another prop
> malfunctioned. I have replaced it with a new "blended airfoil" prop from
> Van's. I flew the 10 hours bringing it home and testing it. It performed
> equal to a $10K AeroComp prop, though it weighs 18 lbs more.
>
> Offered to listers before I put it on ebay, $3500, you pay the shipping. A
> reduced cost way to the land of constant speed props.
>
> John Huft
> Pagosa Springs, CO
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Ellsworth" <ellsworj(at)m33access.com> |
| Subject: | RV-7A Taxi light |
I am installing a Duckworks Taxi light in the right wing of my 7A and
was wondering if the standard cutout has good light coverage for ground
operations. The cutout looks like it won't provide much forward light
projection. Is there any problem with making the cutout 3/4" longer on
the top of the leading edge (back toward the leading edge).
Jim Ellsworth
RV-7A
Building wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
| Subject: | [Fwd: RE: Parking brake info (PVPV-1)] |
I emailed Matco about the recent parking brake discussion and received
this reply and permission to forward to this list.
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: RE: Parking brake info (PVPV-1)
Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2004 06:49:15 -0600
From: Technical Support <tech(at)matcomfg.com>
Mr. Hester,
Thank you for the heads-up. I am not sure how the link on the PV-1
information sheet got misdirected but I have corrected it now. The
drawing was on the site under the Technical Support link correctly but
the link to it from the catalog page was wrong. Strange...but it is
fixed now. Is the RV-List that you mention a public access list or a
subscription list? I do check the list at MATRONICS.COM from time to
time but have not seen the comments about the valve operation
Feedback from our customers is very important to us. The RV builders
provided feedback to us on our port spacing that lead to a change last
year. The fittings used by most RV builders were slightly longer than
the type used back when the PV-1 was designed and it turned out that two
90 degree fittings could not be installed in the body of the valve
(inlet fittings). It was possible to increase the port spacing to allow
these fittings to be used and the change was incorporated in October of
2003. The outlet fitting spacing stayed the same but is generally not
an issue as straight fittings are typically used. I know that it has
helped with the installation for others as well.
I will pass your suggestion along to our shipping department. Your
observation is well taken and would be of benefit to our customers.
Sincerely,
George R. Happ
MATCO mfg
801-486-7574 801-486-7581 (F)
www.matcomfg.com <http://www.matcomfg.com>
From: Bobby Hester [mailto:bhester(at)hopkinsville.net]
Subject: Parking brake info (PVPV-1)
I thought I should let you know that the Installation Drawing
<http://matco.elixirlabs.com/users/matco/images/mastercylinder24a.jpg>
link on this page is no longer working.
http://www.matcomfg.com/catalog/index.php?file=catalog&action=catalog_productinfo&uid=2192&pi_id=61655&clist=0,59990,60741
<http://www.matcomfg.com/catalog/index.php?file=catalog&action=catalog_productinfo&uid=2192%F0_id=61655&clist=0,59990,60741>
I think the correct drawing can be found at:
http://matco.elixirlabs.com/users/matco/images/IM27a.jpg
There has been a big discussion on the RV-List talking about the corrct
way this valve should be installed. Everyone is talking about the valve
coming with no documentation. Alot of people assumed that the arm would
work straight down as being open and 90 degrees up would be off. Alot of
people have installed them that way and some are complaining about them
not working poperly (most likely because they are not installed correctly).
I would think it would be a real good idea to include this drawing with
each valve sold. It would keep your customers form having these
problems. You may not be receiving complaints because most of the people
that have a problem with them just quit using them and then get on the
internet and tell everyone that they do not work very well.
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Huft" <rv8(at)lazy8.net> |
| Subject: | Hartzell prop for sale |
Hi Gert
Custom parking was no problem thanks to your help...lost a little paint off
the trailing edge corner of one wingtip...just the usual for an
airshow...somebody cut the corner as they walked by.
The guy who ground the prop said it was just barely too much to certify.
But, it is sold already. Wow, the power of the list!!
Best, John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Gert
Subject: Re: RV-List: Hartzell prop for sale
Hi John
how much are they ground down??
Gert
p.s.
See you survived the "Custom Parking Camping Bruhaa" for another year ;-)
John Huft wrote:
>
> I guess this would be a good time to offer for sale:
>
> A used, 10 hours since overhaul, Hartzell HC-C2YK-1BF 74" constant speed
> 2-blade prop.
>
> Overhauled by Porterfield Propellers in Lubbock, TX, 10/30/03. Has FAA
form
> 8130-3 from them. Blades were ground down below specs, so the prop is
> experimental only. Logbook was lost.
>
> I bought this prop on ebay to bring my airplane home after another prop
> malfunctioned. I have replaced it with a new "blended airfoil" prop from
> Van's. I flew the 10 hours bringing it home and testing it. It performed
> equal to a $10K AeroComp prop, though it weighs 18 lbs more.
>
> Offered to listers before I put it on ebay, $3500, you pay the shipping. A
> reduced cost way to the land of constant speed props.
>
> John Huft
> Pagosa Springs, CO
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
| Subject: | [Fwd: RE: RE: Parking brake info (PVPV-1)] |
I'll upload the photo that George sent me to the list as soon as I can.
I think this is exactlly what everyone would like to see. This
information needs to come the parking brake, so it can be installed
properly.
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: RE: RE: Parking brake info (PVPV-1)
Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2004 16:49:54 -0600
From: Technical Support <tech(at)matcomfg.com>
Mr. Hester,
I hadn't checked the RV page in a while. I more often browse the RV6 and
RV8 pages. Wow... lot's of discussion. I had another call from an RV
builder today on the topic.
Here is a different drawing hoping to clarify the operating range. Let me
know if this helps clarify.
There is some discussion about not being able to get release of the valve.
As we discussed on the phone, and as the catalog page description notes, the
valve operates as a resetable check valve. The poppets ride on a cam and
are either held open (when the valve is in the open range) or allow flow in
only one direction (when the valve is in the closed range). When pressure
has been trapped in the brake by the valve, the poppets must be unseated to
allow flow to be re-established and this is done by moving the handle to the
open range. The valve is most easy reopened, and the longest o-ring life
will occur, if the pressure across the valve is equalized before moving the
lever to the open range. This is done by first applying brake pressure to
about the same value as the maximum value set while the closed range was
selected. I do this on my a/c by simply pressing the toe brakes firmly
before moving my park brake control to the open position. This concept was
suggested in several of the correspondence and is the correct idea.
There was also some discussion about adding stops on the valve. They are
not required as the valve has an open range and a closed range. It is not
necessary to precisely stop the valve at either end of it's arc of travel
since it only becomes more open or more closed at either extreme. It is
only necessary to insure there is adequate travel about the position where
the handle is perpendicular to the body.
Let me know if the attached drawing clarifies the operating range.
Thank you,
George R. Happ
MATCO mfg
801-486-7574 801-486-7581 (F)
www.matcomfg.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Bobby Hester [mailto:bhester(at)hopkinsville.net]
Subject: Re: RE: Parking brake info (PVPV-1)
I would like to forward a copy of your response to the RV-List if you don't
mind. Yes, this is the Matronics RV-List. Thanks for your time.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: "Technical Support" <tech(at)matcomfg.com>
> To: "'Bobby Hester'"
> Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2004 06:49 (CDT)
> Subject: RE: Parking brake info (PVPV-1)
>
>
>
> Mr. Hester,
>
> Thank you for the heads-up. I am not sure how the link on the PV-1
> information sheet got misdirected but I have corrected it now. The
drawing
> was on the site under the Technical Support link correctly but the link to
> it from the catalog page was wrong. Strange.but it is fixed now. Is the
> RV-List that you mention a public access list or a subscription list? I
do
> check the list at MATRONICS.COM from time to time but have not seen the
> comments about the valve operation
>
>
>
>
>
> Feedback from our customers is very important to us. The RV builders
> provided feedback to us on our port spacing that lead to a change last
year.
> The fittings used by most RV builders were slightly longer than the type
> used back when the PV-1 was designed and it turned out that two 90 degree
> fittings could not be installed in the body of the valve (inlet fittings).
> It was possible to increase the port spacing to allow these fittings to be
> used and the change was incorporated in October of 2003. The outlet
fitting
> spacing stayed the same but is generally not an issue as straight fittings
> are typically used. I know that it has helped with the installation for
> others as well.
>
>
>
> I will pass your suggestion along to our shipping department. Your
> observation is well taken and would be of benefit to our customers.
>
> Sincerely,
>
>
>
> George R. Happ
>
> MATCO mfg
>
> 801-486-7574 801-486-7581 (F)
>
> www.matcomfg.com
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: Bobby Hester [mailto:bhester(at)hopkinsville.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 2004 9:22 PM
> To: tech(at)MATCOmfg.com
> Subject: Parking brake info (PVPV-1)
>
>
>
> I thought I should let you know that the Installation
> <http://matco.elixirlabs.com/users/matco/images/mastercylinder24a.jpg>
> Drawing link on this page is no longer working.
> http://www.matcomfg.com/catalog/index.php?file=catalog
>
<http://www.matcomfg.com/catalog/index.php?file=catalog&action=catalog_produ
> ctinfo&uid=2192~_id=61655&clist=0,59990,60741>
> &action=catalog_productinfo&uid=2192&pi_id=61655&clist=0,59990,60741
>
> I think the correct drawing can be found at:
> http://matco.elixirlabs.com/users/matco/images/IM27a.jpg
>
> There has been a big discussion on the RV-List talking about the corrct
way
> this valve should be installed. Everyone is talking about the valve coming
> with no documentation. Alot of people assumed that the arm would work
> straight down as being open and 90 degrees up would be off. Alot of people
> have installed them that way and some are complaining about them not
working
> poperly (most likely because they are not installed correctly).
>
> I would think it would be a real good idea to include this drawing with
each
> valve sold. It would keep your customers form having these problems. You
may
> not be receiving complaints because most of the people that have a problem
> with them just quit using them and then get on the internet and tell
> everyone that they do not work very well.
>
>
>
> --
> Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
>
>
-------
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
RV7A web site: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | HS-702 edge distances |
| From: | "Will, Scott" <Scott.Will(at)delta.com> |
Looking for advice on the front spar acceptable edge distances. When match drilling
the skin to the spar, I ended up with edge distances on the spar of about
.110 (worst case, top side of stab) and about .140 - .150" (bottom side of stab).
I must not have had all the parts clamped tightly when I drilled. The
holes receive #3 rivets but edge distances are slightly more than 1D. All of
them are not like that, just the first two or three -- then they progress to a
more normal, centered spacing.
Have any of you had experience with this and if so what was the outcome? Thanks
for all the insight in advance.
Scott Will
Atlanta, GA
-7A emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris & Kellie Hand" <ckhand(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RV6A aft top skins |
Questions for RV-6/6A tip-up canopy builders:
Did you rivet the forward-most aft top skin (that mates w/ aft canopy
section) before fitting and drilling the canopy in place, or after fitting
the canopy? Would you do it the same way if starting over?
Seems easy enough to just final trim the skin with it riveted in place, but
how much, if any of the forward fingers reaching to the cabin frame should
stay cleco'd until canopy fitting?
My finish kit is due for shipping in late Sept and I was going to go ahead
and rivet the skins, but I have riveted things too soon in the past so
looking for opinions...
Thanks for your help!
Chris Hand
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruno <rv4(at)videotron.ca> |
| Subject: | LIGHTSPEED ELECTRONIC IGNITION |
0.1 EXTRA_CASH BODY": rv-list(at)matronics.com
Hello All
I thinking about replacing one of the mags on my RV-4 with an
electronic system and would like to know from the peoples who have done it
using a Lightspeed System the pros & cons of using such a system.
What kind of fuel economy and HPs increase did you get?
Also is a Plasma 3 system worth the extra cash vs a Plasma 2 Plus system?
What spark plugs are you using ( Long life or Iridiums??)
Comments regarding Klaus's services...?
Thank you for your time
Bruno Dionne
C-GDBH RV-4
rv4(at)videotron.ca
P.S# You may reply off list if you wish.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HS-702 edge distances |
Are you measuring edge distance from the edge of the hole, or from the
center? Edge distance is normally measured from the center of the hole
to the edge of the material. The minimum edge distance for #3 rivets is
.156 or .219 in, depending on the nature of the hole (dimpled v.
countersunk, etc.) If you haven't read Milspec MIL-R-47196A, check it
out here: http://home.flash.net/~gila/rivet_spec/rivet_a.htm
Everything you ever wanted to know about rivets. You'll find that the
"rules of thumb" on riveting are more conservative than what is required
by the Milspec.
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A aft top skins |
Chris, Kellie:
I left the skin clecoed until it was in its final shape. (I have a
tip-up, but I don't think that matters in this respect.) Then I
rivetted all except for the forward pieces that rivet to the top
longeron. I left about a foot unrivetted. Then I finished the
plexiglass. Made it easier to get the plexi in and out. Beware you
don't accidentally bend those pieces back. I kept them clecoed all the
time or taped down so they wouldn't snag on my sleeve as I walked by. I
rivetted that last bit after the plexiglass was all finished and ready
for "permanent" installation. (Is anything ever installed permanently?)
Chris & Kellie Hand wrote:
>
> Questions for RV-6/6A tip-up canopy builders:
> Did you rivet the forward-most aft top skin (that mates w/ aft canopy
> section) before fitting and drilling the canopy in place, or after fitting
> the canopy? Would you do it the same way if starting over?
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, Landing gear
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
Hi,
Has anyone ever used these guys: http://www.emachineshop.com/
Looks like a very cool service, particularly for those of us
that don't live in the land of good prices.
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Trampas" <tstern(at)nc.rr.com> |
I got a quote from them for an enclosure, they were really expensive. My
local shop could do it much cheaper.
Regards,
Trampas
www.sterntech.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mickey Coggins
Subject: RV-List: eMachineShop
Hi,
Has anyone ever used these guys: http://www.emachineshop.com/
Looks like a very cool service, particularly for those of us
that don't live in the land of good prices.
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A aft top skins |
In a message dated 8/18/04 11:05:56 PM Central Daylight Time,
ckhand(at)earthlink.net writes:
> I was going to go ahead
> and rivet the skins, but I have riveted things too soon in the past so
> looking for opinions...
>
>>>>>>>>
Sounds like you've already learned the important lesson- the only reason to
final install ANYTHING is that you HAVE to in order to proceed.... I had the
rear glass and all attach hardware fitted and ready for final installation
before riveting the skin on, and the forward "fingers" were the very last skin
rivets on the whole project.
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark -6A tip-up
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Saw this engine on Ebay |
Great for a low budget bird:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?viewItem&rd=1&item=2487056705&category=26437
if the link doesn't work, go to ebay and put the item number into the search
window:
2487056705
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "james frierson" <tn3639(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | KLX-135A problem |
I am having trouble with my KLX-135A. It seems to lock onto the satellites
fairly quickly but after flying for a short time; all I get is FLAG. After
going to the OTH page, it seems to have good signal strength but there is an
asterisk by all the satellites number indicating a problem. I can cycle the
power and it works for a short while and then displays the FLAG. Is it
required to force cool this radio as it seem to get worse as it heats up.
Scott Frierson
RV6-A
N162RV
Flying
Get ready for school! Find articles, homework help and more in the Back to
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SCOTT MORGAN <sdmorgan(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: KLX-135A problem |
Call Bendix/King in Olathe Kansas. The last time I talked with them on my unit
they were very helpful in the technical areas.
frierson"
I am having trouble with my KLX-135A. It seems to lock onto the satellites
fairly quickly but after flying for a short time; all I get is FLAG. After
going to the OTH page, it seems to have good signal strength but there is an
asterisk by all the satellites number indicating a problem. I can cycle the
power and it works for a short while and then displays the FLAG. Is it
required to force cool this radio as it seem to get worse as it heats up.
Scott Frierson
RV6-A
N162RV
Flying
Get ready for school! Find articles, homework help and more in the Back to
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV-7A Taxi light |
The cutout as depicted seems to provide plenty of light on the ground,
expecially with the -7(a) and -9(a). You could cut out a little more if you
want but the lens that comes with the installation kit may not cover it.
There is extra glass that is normally cut off, I would just advise caution.
Mike Robertson
>From: "Jim Ellsworth" <ellsworj(at)m33access.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: RV-7A Taxi light
>Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2004 21:27:43 -0400
>
>
>I am installing a Duckworks Taxi light in the right wing of my 7A and
>was wondering if the standard cutout has good light coverage for ground
>operations. The cutout looks like it won't provide much forward light
>projection. Is there any problem with making the cutout 3/4" longer on
>the top of the leading edge (back toward the leading edge).
>
>Jim Ellsworth
>
>RV-7A
>
>Building wings
>
>
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Saw this engine on Ebay |
Be careful of "H" model engines.
They have historical problems with cam/lifter spalling.
Great for a low budget bird:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?viewItem&rd=1&item=2487056705&category=26437
if the link doesn't work, go to ebay and put the item number into the search
window:
2487056705
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruno <rv4(at)videotron.ca> |
| Subject: | E-MAG ELECTRONIC IGNITION |
Hello All
I just received an e-mail from Brad Dement from E-MAG
Electronics who let me know about their systems. I never heard of them and I
was wondering if anyone has any info on this compagny and products.
Has anyone ever saw them in Oshkosh or S & F , or actually saw or used their
products.
Theirs product look from the outside a lot like a Lazar System but with a
few differences.
If you wanna have a look, go to :
<http://www.emagair.com> www.emagair.com
Thanks for any imputs you may have
Bruno Dionne
C-GDBH RV-4
rv4(at)videotron.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Pitot mount question |
Hi,
The instructions for mounting the pitot tube call for
a big gnarly hole in the spar flange. Is this really
needed and desirable? Seems like the hole could be
in the skin with just a tad bit of reinforcement. Am
I making a big deal out of nothing?
Thanks,
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Saw this engine on Ebay |
| From: | "Jamie Painter" <jdpainter(at)jpainter.org> |
Just an FYI on this Engine:
It appears to have been involved in the following accident (based on the
N-number on the aircraft logbook).
http://www2.ntsb.gov/ntsb/brief.asp?ev_id 040803X01125&key=1
On July 4, 2004, about 1700 eastern daylight time, a Cessna 172N, N10DJ,
received substantial damage during the landing roll out at the Grand Canyon
Airport, Wellsboro, Pennsylvania. The certificated private pilot was not
injured. Visual meteorological conditions prevailed, and the airplane was not
operating on a flight plan. The local personal flight, which departed Cherry
Springs Airport (5G6), Galeton, Pennsylvania, was conducted under 14 CFR Part
91.
According to a Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) inspector, the pilot
elected to perform a precautionary landing at Grand Canyon Airport due to
deteriorating weather conditions in the area. While landing on runway 28, the
airplane veered off the right side of the runway and impacted a hay bail.
...
>
>
> Great for a low budget bird:
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?viewItem&rd=1&item=2487056705&category=26437
>
> if the link doesn't work, go to ebay and put the item number into the search
> window:
>
> 2487056705
>
>
--
Jamie D. Painter
RV-7A wings N622JP (reserved)
http://rv.jpainter.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Bibb" <rebibb(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot mount question |
> I making a big deal out of nothing?
>
Yes
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
| Subject: | Re: [Fwd: Re: Parking brake info (PVPV-1)] |
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Re: Parking brake info (PVPV-1)
Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2004 21:28:39 -0600
From: tech(at)matcomfg.com
<41241790.8060502(at)hopkinsville.net>
Mr. Hester,
While driving to the airport this evening, I realized the sketch should
show the
transition zone in the middle of the travel. I'll correct it and send you the
update tomorrow.
Shipping added the installation drawing to the back of the Illustrated parts
list that we send with our parking brake valves (always sent with retail
sales). We will also be including them now on sales to our distributors.
Thank you,
George R. Happ
MATCO mfg
Quoting Bobby Hester :
> Technical Support wrote:
>
>> Mr. Hester,
>> I hadn't checked the RV page in a while. I more often browse the RV6 and
>> RV8 pages. Wow... lot's of discussion. I had another call from an RV
>> builder today on the topic. Here is a different drawing hoping to
>> clarify the operating range. Let me
>> know if this helps clarify.
>>
>> Let me know if the attached drawing clarifies the operating range.
>> Thank you,
>>
>> George R. Happ
>> MATCO mfg
>> 801-486-7574 801-486-7581 (F)
>> www.matcomfg.com
>>
>>
> Mr. Happ,
> Thank you very much. This drawing will be very helpful. I have uploaded
> it to the file area on the RV-List, it should show up there within the
> next day or so.
>
> I really do think that it would be a big improvement to your product to
> include both the installasion drawing and this drawing with each PVPV-1
> shipped. At the very least a small card with the web address and a
> statement that these drawing are there.
>
> Thank you very much for your time!
>
> --
> Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Propeller balance |
| From: | David L Ahrens <daviddla(at)juno.com> |
Hello all, I need some help in finding someone to Dynamic balance my
propeller and engine. I have a RV-6A with about 75 hrs., 0-320
engine,conical mounts, sensenich propeller. The local shops do not show
much interest in doing the work. One doesn't want to touch a homebuilt
and the other can't work me into his schedule. I live in Bakersfield, Ca.
Anyone have a favorite shop within an hours flight time of Bakersfield?
Thanks, David Ahrens
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Propeller balance |
You might try Jim Fackler. He's based down here near LA somewhere...not
sure where exactly.
Jim Fackler
JF Dynamics
(626) 358-7568
jfackler(at)earthlink.net
Jim did my Hartzell a few months back and had excellent results:
http://www.rvproject.com/20040427.html
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "David L Ahrens" <daviddla(at)juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: Propeller balance
>
> Hello all, I need some help in finding someone to Dynamic balance my
> propeller and engine. I have a RV-6A with about 75 hrs., 0-320
> engine,conical mounts, sensenich propeller. The local shops do not show
> much interest in doing the work. One doesn't want to touch a homebuilt
> and the other can't work me into his schedule. I live in Bakersfield, Ca.
> Anyone have a favorite shop within an hours flight time of Bakersfield?
> Thanks, David Ahrens
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Daniels <jwdanie(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: [Fwd: Re: Parking brake info (PVPV-1)] |
August 11, 2004 - August 19, 2004
RV-Archive.digest.vol-pq