RV-Archive.digest.vol-pt
September 07, 2004 - September 17, 2004
> of the info. It would have weighed on me heavy if something terrible
> happened to a friend where my silence could have been a contributing
> factor. We should be able to look at my data points and others, without
> respect to emotion, and make decisions moving forward. Increased
> awareness is a good thing.
>
> Regards,
> Mike Stewart
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of N13eer(at)aol.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon D-10 errors
>
>
> Mike,
> It is not clear from your description if the pitch error was a single
> event or an oscillation. A couple months back I was doing some hood
> time with a CFI in the back seat of my -8. After leveling off after a
> long descent (If I remember it was from 8500 down to 2500) My Dynon
> started pitching up and down. It didn't just pitch up 20 deg and stay
> there. It was about 20 deg each way. Since the airspeed and alt were
> stable I just watched it, it was a little unnerving. It damped out
> after about 5 cycles. At the time Dynon said they had seen an issue in
> roll at about 1900 rpm that they could duplicate but had not seen or
> been told of other pitch issues. I tried to duplicate the issue but to
> date I have not been able to. Doug at Dynon was very interested and
> wanted any info on being able to recreate it.
>
> Alan Kritzman
>
> To summarize, myself and others, have been getting errors on the horizon
> function of the Dynon EFIS. In one case it really scared me and as a
> result I have grounded me 6A from any IFR work. Most of the errors are a
> lean in the roll axis by as much as 7-10 degrees. Pitch errors in my
> case have been as much as 20 degrees. Here is a brief synopsis of what
> and how it is happening based on some e-mail to Dynon:
>
> =
> =
> =
> =
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
ATF should be compatible with 5606 seals. Note, I said should, but I have
pretty high confidence on that. Further, ATF should be compatible with 5606
if they were mixed but I have not tried that. Does anyone know what the
seals in Cleveland brakes are made of?? Buna-N
ATF should work as a brake fluid at any temp that we would fly an RV. ATF's
typically have Pour Points in the -50F range.
Having said all that, why? a well maintained brake system needs little
service, a gallon of 5606 is about $15 and will last a lifetime. ATF's have
all sorts of things that you do not need in your brake system, Viscosity
Index improvers, friction modifiers, anti-oxidants (that only work at high
temperatures) detergents (that only work at high temperatures) anti-wear
agents,( that only work under high loads). Many small cheap hydraulic
systems use ATF as a hydraulic fluid, because it has very low viscometrics
and excellent low temp properties. That is the only reason. You may say
that ATF is easier to find than 5606, but your airplane is at the airport
and you can find 5606 at any airport, ATF will be more difficult.
I would vote for 5606.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
________________________________________________________________________________
If cheap is the issue a gallon of 5606 at $13.95 will supply just about every
airplane on the airport. Or if you are really cheap get a quart for $3.95.
Or if you are really, really cheap and don't want to share with your building
buddies a pint at $2.20 is enough to do the brakes on an RV. Readily available
from ACS and other aircraft parts suppliers.
In my experience brake fires happen when plastic brake lines are used and the
heat generated by a hard brake application melts them. The latest versions
of the RV don't use plastic brake lines so that should not be a problem.
Agreed if you spill it and let it dry it can be a mess. Just clean it up when
you
spill it.
By the time you figure out the proper seals to use, disassemble and
reassemble the components why not just use the recommended brake fluid.
This is what I recommend to new builders and I'm sticking to it.
Cash Copeland A&P
RV-6
Hayward, Ca
In a message dated 9/7/2004 12:40:03 PM Pacific Standard Time,
cgalley(at)qcbc.org writes:
Auto transmission fluid has several pluses. Cheap, readily available, works
well, doesn't absorb moisture, doesn't dry to a sticky mess, doesn't catch
fire at as low a temperature as 5606.
BUT you have to use compatible seals.
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
I don't plan to move away from what is suggested by the brake components
manufacturer as yet.
However if I was going to look for an alternative I think I would go with
DOT 5 synthetic. It costs more but my guess is that it would perform well
without the unknowns (additives) etc. that non spec. products contain.
I'm not sure but I suspect that DOT 5 would operate without the need to
change out seals etc.
Does anyone feel a strong impulse to offer up an opinion or even some data
or an in the field experience report on DOT 5 synthetic? {[;-)
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: <JusCash(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Brake Fluid
>
> If cheap is the issue a gallon of 5606 at $13.95 will supply just about
> every
> airplane on the airport. Or if you are really cheap get a quart for
> $3.95.
> Or if you are really, really cheap and don't want to share with your
> building
> buddies a pint at $2.20 is enough to do the brakes on an RV. Readily
> available
> from ACS and other aircraft parts suppliers.
>
> In my experience brake fires happen when plastic brake lines are used and
> the
> heat generated by a hard brake application melts them. The latest
> versions
> of the RV don't use plastic brake lines so that should not be a problem.
> Agreed if you spill it and let it dry it can be a mess. Just clean it up
> when you
> spill it.
>
> By the time you figure out the proper seals to use, disassemble and
> reassemble the components why not just use the recommended brake fluid.
>
> This is what I recommend to new builders and I'm sticking to it.
>
> Cash Copeland A&P
> RV-6
> Hayward, Ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Martin Hone" <mctrader(at)bigpond.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re : Brake Fluid |
I too had a similar query to Neil regarding using ATF in my RV's brakes. My
previous aircraft had Cleveland copies, and the manufacturer recommended
using ATF, which I happily did for 10 years without a problem. Certainly
cost is not an issue and neither is availability, but flammability is.
MIL-H5606 is a mineral oil-based hydraulic fluid that has been in use since
the 1940's with an operating range of - 54C to 135C, but its high degree if
flammability has long been recognised by the military. As a result,
commercial aircraft moved to phosphate ester-based hydraulic fluids (eg
Skydrol) and found a reduction in hydraulic fluid fires.
A direct replacement for 5606 that is more fire resistant was developed,
called MIL-H 83282, and is a synthetic hydro-carbon based fluid that is
compatible with 5606 and 5606 based system materials. It has an operating
range of - 40C to 205C
When I went searching for MIL-H 83282 I could not buy it anything smaller
than 20 litres ( 4 US Gals) so that idea went out the window.
In the end I went with the garden-variety 5606 thought I felt I could have
just as easily used ATF.
Other than flammability, the main issue is seal compatibility. You would
need to test seal compatability if you used DOT 5 synthetic fluid, and I
would have a preference for DOT 5.1 which I believe is non-synthetic.
Hope this helps
Martin in Oz
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Martin Hone" <mctrader(at)bigpond.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re : Brake Fluid |
I too had a similar query to Neil regarding using ATF in my RV's brakes. My
previous aircraft had Cleveland copies, and the manufacturer recommended
using ATF, which I happily did for 10 years without a problem. Certainly
cost is not an issue and neither is availability, but flammability is.
MIL-H5606 is a mineral oil-based hydraulic fluid that has been in use since
the 1940's with an operating range of - 54C to 135C, but its high degree if
flammability has long been recognised by the military. As a result,
commercial aircraft moved to phosphate ester-based hydraulic fluids (eg
Skydrol) and found a reduction in hydraulic fluid fires.
A direct replacement for 5606 that is more fire resistant was developed,
called MIL-H 83282, and is a synthetic hydro-carbon based fluid that is
compatible with 5606 and 5606 based system materials. It has an operating
range of - 40C to 205C
When I went searching for MIL-H 83282 I could not buy it anything smaller
than 20 litres ( 4 US Gals) so that idea went out the window.
In the end I went with the garden-variety 5606 thought I felt I could have
just as easily used ATF.
Other than flammability, the main issue is seal compatibility. You would
need to test seal compatability if you used DOT 5 synthetic fluid, and I
would have a preference for DOT 5.1 which I believe is non-synthetic.
Hope this helps
Martin in Oz
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Japundza <japundza(at)gmail.com> |
I have been running synthetic ATF in my brake lines for four years and
never have had ANY problems. While I was at wal-mart with the family
unit picking up a giant sized pack of toilet paper and some other
stuff I strolled over over to the aviation supply aisle and picked up
a quart of Mobil1 Synthetic ATF for the rocket and gave a whopping
$2.60 for it. No hazardous material shipping charges, no shipping
charges, etc. Aeroshell lists the flash point of fluid 4 (5606) at
110 deg. C, the newer fire-resistant replacement for 5606 is aeroshell
31, flash point of 220 deg. C. Mobil1 synthetic ATF flash point: 220
deg. In fact when you compare the specs between Mobil1 and fluid 31
they're nearly identical. I will venture to say that they're (choke,
gasp) the same dang thing.
In a nutshell, there are two types of o-rings and seals: those that
work with oil and those that work with water. Automotive brake fluid
is hydroscopic (absorbs water) therefore automotive brake systems use
o-rings that work with water. Big no-no with seals that work only
with oil (like in aircraft brake systems).
There's no good reason to say that a fluid that has been around for
50+ years is any better than a modern fluid, espicially if it has a
flashpoint that is half of its modern counterpart. For some reason
the good people in the aviation community refuse to think outside the
box, if its cheap it can't be good, if it isn't mil-spec it can't be
good, if it isn't complex it can't be good, etc. For the matter I
know quite a few guys running plastic brake lines also, one RV-4 with
1500+ hours on plastic brake lines and ATF and has never had any
problems. The others went to plastic after several breaks with the
aluminum lines.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying, F1 under const.
Indy
>
> If cheap is the issue a gallon of 5606 at $13.95 will supply just about every
> airplane on the airport. Or if you are really cheap get a quart for $3.95.
> Or if you are really, really cheap and don't want to share with your building
> buddies a pint at $2.20 is enough to do the brakes on an RV. Readily available
> from ACS and other aircraft parts suppliers.
>
> In my experience brake fires happen when plastic brake lines are used and the
> heat generated by a hard brake application melts them. The latest versions
> of the RV don't use plastic brake lines so that should not be a problem.
> Agreed if you spill it and let it dry it can be a mess. Just clean it up when
you
> spill it.
>
> By the time you figure out the proper seals to use, disassemble and
> reassemble the components why not just use the recommended brake fluid.
>
> This is what I recommend to new builders and I'm sticking to it.
>
> Cash Copeland A&P
> RV-6
> Hayward, Ca
>
> In a message dated 9/7/2004 12:40:03 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> cgalley(at)qcbc.org writes:
>
> Auto transmission fluid has several pluses. Cheap, readily available, works
> well, doesn't absorb moisture, doesn't dry to a sticky mess, doesn't catch
> fire at as low a temperature as 5606.
>
> BUT you have to use compatible seals.
>
> Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
> Safety Programs Editor - TC
> EAA Sport Pilot
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: K1100-06 nutplate installation on e-616 |
Mike
Why not simply dimple the rivet holes in the nutplates and the doubler?
Charlie Kuss
>
> From: Mike Draper <mdraper(at)nww.com>
> Date: 2004/09/06 Mon PM 03:09:02 EDT
> To: "'rv-list(at)matronics.com'"
> Subject: RV-List: K1100-06 nutplate installation on e-616
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: > Re: Brake Fluid |
Better be careful using any DOT fluids. Automotive brake fluid (Glycerine
based) is NOT compatible with aircraft brake systems. You will wind up with a
gooey mess which is hard to clean out of the brake system. A friend did this.
Lest someone goes to buy auto brake fluid.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: how to feed the battery cable through the firewall?? |
I would be a little suspicious about the thru-bolt type of pass-thru.
The insulating material seems to be (from the pictures, anyway) a
plastic of some sort. I would think a fire would ruin that in seconds.
Do they make these things with a ceramic insulator?
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, Landing gear
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
I was told by Dave Ronnenberg that he didn't want Dot 5 in his building let
alone in his airplane. Dot 5 is silicone based and makes it very difficult
to paint a surface that is contaminated with Dot 5 and epoxy repairs were
also impaired. I know he recommends tray fluid but brake fluid is your
decision. The very worse fluid is ordinary auto brake fluid as it is not
compatible with aircraft seals. It also absorbs moisture which will corrode
brake parts. However some old bladder brakes do require the use of
automotive.
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Brake Fluid
>
> I don't plan to move away from what is suggested by the brake components
> manufacturer as yet.
>
> However if I was going to look for an alternative I think I would go with
> DOT 5 synthetic. It costs more but my guess is that it would perform well
> without the unknowns (additives) etc. that non spec. products contain.
> I'm not sure but I suspect that DOT 5 would operate without the need to
> change out seals etc.
> Does anyone feel a strong impulse to offer up an opinion or even some data
> or an in the field experience report on DOT 5 synthetic? {[;-)
>
> Jim in Kelowna
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <JusCash(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Brake Fluid
>
>
> >
> > If cheap is the issue a gallon of 5606 at $13.95 will supply just about
> > every
> > airplane on the airport. Or if you are really cheap get a quart for
> > $3.95.
> > Or if you are really, really cheap and don't want to share with your
> > building
> > buddies a pint at $2.20 is enough to do the brakes on an RV. Readily
> > available
> > from ACS and other aircraft parts suppliers.
> >
> > In my experience brake fires happen when plastic brake lines are used
and
> > the
> > heat generated by a hard brake application melts them. The latest
> > versions
> > of the RV don't use plastic brake lines so that should not be a problem.
> > Agreed if you spill it and let it dry it can be a mess. Just clean it
up
> > when you
> > spill it.
> >
> > By the time you figure out the proper seals to use, disassemble and
> > reassemble the components why not just use the recommended brake fluid.
> >
> > This is what I recommend to new builders and I'm sticking to it.
> >
> > Cash Copeland A&P
> > RV-6
> > Hayward, Ca
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 9/7/04 1:16:33 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
neil.mo51(at)btopenworld.com writes:
<< About a year ago there was a thread discussing brake fluids and the use of
automatic transmission oil as being a suitable substitution. >>
I'm curious. Is there some reason you don't want to use aircraft brake fluid?
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, final details
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Psiropoulos" <deanpsir(at)easystreet.com> |
| Subject: | Landing gear intersection fairings. |
Anyone know where I can get pre-made landing gear intersection fairings for
my -6A. I checked the archives and "Fairings-etc." popped up. I was able to
locate the website and these look like good pieces but does anyone ELSE sell
something similar? Just wondering if there's more than one vendor out there
now. Thanks.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Survived Hurricanes Charley and Frances, wondering if Ivan will be strike 3
and I'm out, jeeeezzz is it ever gonna stop?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 9/7/2004 7:19:41 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
japundza(at)gmail.com writes:
Automotive brake fluid
is hydroscopic (absorbs water) therefore automotive brake systems use
o-rings that work with water.
===================================
Bob-
Actually hygroscopic is the correct term.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 719 hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ed " <ed_88(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Why such short rivets? |
From: "ed \240" <ed_88@hotmai...
Hello listers, I've recently started building the emp kit for my
rv-8a, and I've run into my first question that I cant seem to find
discussed in the archives.
According to the plans HS609PP is supposed to be riveted to HS603PP using
AN470AD4-6 rivets. But when I did a test fitting the rivet looked too short.
I got out the avery gauge, and indeed it looks about 1/8" shorter than the
gauge says it should be.
So of course I went back to the plans, and they said the rivet size was
correct. (I guess I am not the first person to wonder this.) I re-read the
section in the preview plans which talks about riveting, and they mentioned
the plans sometimes called for rivets that seemed too short, but they
thought should work. Unfortuately this leaves me with a couple of questions:
1) How far should these "short" rivets be squeezed? Should I squeeze to
the same 1/2 the radius rule as normal? Or should I squeeze farther to get
more of a shop head on the rivet?
2) Why do they do this? Does using shorter rivets save weight over the
course of the entire airplane?
3) Why do the plans say never to use a vibrating pencil to mark parts,
then say it is ok on the rear spar of the horiz. stab? How can I tell when
it is ok and when its not ok. (Ok that one has nothing to do with riveting,
but I thought I would ask anyway.)
Once again, the people on this list are a huge resource, I don't know who
the early builders managed without it.
--Eddie
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing gear intersection fairings. |
http://www.teamrocketaircraft.com is another one to try. I just called
today and was told that the intersection fairings they sell are about 3/4"
longer in chord than the way Van's stock leg fairings come out. He said
that the Team Rocket intersection fairings will only work with Team Rocket
leg fairings, otherwise they'll require some surgery to make 'em fit. I'm
just repeating what I was told...can't vouch either way.
I ordered my uppers from Bob S. at Fairings, etc. They're very high quality
but weren't a perfect fit. It ended up being fine with a little
fiberglass/flox surgery. I ordered my lowers from him earlier today...we'll
see how well they fit.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (208 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dean Psiropoulos" <deanpsir(at)easystreet.com>
Subject: RV-List: Landing gear intersection fairings.
>
> Anyone know where I can get pre-made landing gear intersection fairings
for
> my -6A. I checked the archives and "Fairings-etc." popped up. I was able
to
> locate the website and these look like good pieces but does anyone ELSE
sell
> something similar? Just wondering if there's more than one vendor out
there
> now. Thanks.
>
>
> Dean Psiropoulos
>
> RV-6A N197DM
>
> Survived Hurricanes Charley and Frances, wondering if Ivan will be strike
3
> and I'm out, jeeeezzz is it ever gonna stop?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Why such short rivets? |
> 1) How far should these "short" rivets be squeezed? Should I squeeze to
>the same 1/2 the radius rule as normal? Or should I squeeze farther to get
>more of a shop head on the rivet?
>
On my 6 plans, I came across numerous places where the called-for rivet
(and sometimes bolt) sizes were a size off. If in doubt, use the
correct size rivet as indicated by your handy rivet gauge. If a rivet
is so short that you have to ask the above question, than it is too
short. Too short a rivet and there will not be enough material there
to make a proper sized shop head. Too long and the rivet is much more
likely to hobnail over on you. When debating between two sizes, I
usually go with the smaller size for this reason. A correct length
rivet leaves more than plenty of material, in other words a good margin
for error.
On the subject of shop heads, make sure you get and read the Milspec on
riveting:
http://home.flash.net/~gila/rivet_spec/rivet_a.htm
In particular, the specifics on edge distance and shop head size. The
rules of thumb (1 1/2X diameter etc.) are handy, but you'll see that the
actual allowables go a little less than that. That little bit less can
often be the difference between moving forward with the project, and
throwing out a perfectly good piece and starting over because your edge
distance was a few thousandths under 1 1/2X, but still well within the
Milspec, for example.
After you get enough experience (like when you've smashed all 17
gazzilion rivets in the plane) you'll be able to eyeball them and tell
if they are long enough or too long, but for now use the gauge. I found
by the end that I wasn't even looking at the rivet callouts, just
eyeballing the thickness of the materials, grabbing the right size rivet
and smashing away.
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Why such short rivets? |
| From: | <dfiggins(at)es.com> |
Eddie
I am also on empennage for RV-7A and noticed same problem, squeezed them
down to close to shop size (using Avery gauge) and they seem fine. You
will find a couple of other areas where a rivet size is called out that
either does not seem correct (on front spar they call out -7 which are
too long) or the size specified is not included in the kit (-5) I ended
up using the rivet cutter to get rivets the correct length. I have noted
a couple of other areas where the instructions left a little to be
desired on my weblog.On the marking issue I use permanent marker which
shows through the mar-hyde primer.
Dave RV-7A Empennage
http://home.earthlink.net/~2004nospam/default.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of ed
Subject: RV-List: Why such short rivets?
Hello listers, I've recently started building the emp kit for my
rv-8a, and I've run into my first question that I cant seem to find
discussed in the archives.
According to the plans HS609PP is supposed to be riveted to HS603PP
using
AN470AD4-6 rivets. But when I did a test fitting the rivet looked too
short.
I got out the avery gauge, and indeed it looks about 1/8" shorter than
the gauge says it should be.
So of course I went back to the plans, and they said the rivet size
was correct. (I guess I am not the first person to wonder this.) I
re-read the section in the preview plans which talks about riveting, and
they mentioned the plans sometimes called for rivets that seemed too
short, but they thought should work. Unfortuately this leaves me with a
couple of questions:
1) How far should these "short" rivets be squeezed? Should I squeeze
to the same 1/2 the radius rule as normal? Or should I squeeze farther
to get more of a shop head on the rivet?
2) Why do they do this? Does using shorter rivets save weight over
the course of the entire airplane?
3) Why do the plans say never to use a vibrating pencil to mark
parts, then say it is ok on the rear spar of the horiz. stab? How can I
tell when it is ok and when its not ok. (Ok that one has nothing to do
with riveting, but I thought I would ask anyway.)
Once again, the people on this list are a huge resource, I don't know
who the early builders managed without it.
--Eddie
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
=
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Kugler" <donkugler(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Old-style RV8 Wing tips wanted |
I'm looking for a pair of the old-style, original, wing tips for an RV8. If
anyone has a set they would like to sell, please contact me off list.
-Don
RV8 NJ
Don Kugler
donkugler(at)earthlink.net
908-303-6578
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Draper <mdraper(at)nww.com> |
| Subject: | Re: K1100-06 nutplate installation on e-616 - Problem Solved |
I finally figured it out last night after I saw a picture on the net with
different looking nutplates.
Having never installed a nutplate I assumed that the nutplates I received
were the correct ones. Wrong! Vans inadvertently sent me K1000-06s which
are non dimpled nutplates. There was no way for the nutplate to receive a
dimple from the reinforcement plate and the reinforcement plate is too thin
to countersink. The nutplates they sent me would only work with pan head
screws.
It all makes sense now. Get Vans to send me the correct nutplates, dimple
the reinforcement plate, use NAS rivets to attach.
-Mike Draper
RV-8 QB
Message
I finally figured it
out last night after I saw a picture on the net with different looking
nutplates.
Having never
installed a nutplate I assumed that the nutplates I received were the correct
ones. Wrong! Vans inadvertently sent me K1000-06s which are non
dimpled nutplates. There was no way for the nutplate to receive a dimple
from the reinforcement plate and the reinforcement plate is too thin to
countersink. The nutplates they sent me would only work with pan
head screws.
It all makes sense
now.GetVans to send me the correct nutplates,dimple the
reinforcement plate, use NAS rivets to attach.
-Mike Draper
RV-8
QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronnie Brown" <romott(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon D-10 errors |
There is indeed a vibration problem that will affect the Pitch and Roll functions
of the Dynon.
I saw it with my own two eyes in a Rotax 912 powered Europa. The owner has been
receiving IFR training and he began noticing an pitch oscillation while in descent.
It would begin oscillating about 5 degrees with a fairly high frequency,
then would oscillate at 10-15 degrees at a slower frequency.
He finally figured out that it was indeed engine RPM related and can adjust the
RPM to cause the small oscillation or the wide oscillation and even can cause
the horizon to show a complete dive (all brown).
He is updating the software - Dynon has provided him with an update which has a
different sampling rate and is supposed to fix the problem. The software has
been loaded but we are in the midst of the remains of Frances here in NC. He
should be able to fly later this week and see if he has a fix.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Austin's "Mirror" |
Send me a copy!
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Landing gear intersection fairings. |
In a message dated 9/8/04 12:00:12 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
deanpsir(at)easystreet.com writes:
>
>
> Anyone know where I can get pre-made landing gear intersection fairings for
> my -6A. I checked the archives and "Fairings-etc." popped up. I was able to
> locate the website and these look like good pieces but does anyone ELSE sell
> something similar? Just wondering if there's more than one vendor out there
> now. Thanks.
>
>
> Dean Psiropoulos
>
> RV-6A N197DM
>
Dean,
When I returned to my plane at OSH, there was a card from John A. Violette
president of Aero Composites, Inc. on my plane. He is in Kensington, CT. Phone
860 829 6809. Website: aerocomposites.com.
I haven't seen his work. Think I'll make my own. The lower intersection
fairings went pretty well, but I've been having too much fun flying to get the
upper ones done yet!
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (flying about 41 hours)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Veld <jcveld(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | RV6a kit for sale |
I have an old, 'slow build' (not pre-punched) RV6a kit I would like to
sell. Progress is; empenage, 90%, wing, 25%, fuselage, not started. I
do not have a finishing kit, engine, or avionics.
I have had it for several years but have done nothing on it for the
last couple of years.
I am asking $6,500 for the kit.
Contact me email jcveld(at)mac.com
or phone 269 267-2509
I am in Kalamazoo, MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo(at)verizon.net> |
"Rocket List" ,
"SoCal RV List"
| Subject: | Fw: Pt Mugu Air Show and SoCAL RVs |
Sounds like things are back on.
PLEASE GET BACK WITH ME AS SOON AS POSSIBLE.
After I got them to change their minds, at least we can do is show up.
WHO IS GOING TO FLY TO THE PT. MUGU AIR SHOW?
Which day or days.?
GummiBear
----- Original Message -----
From: Boggs, William A LCDR
Subject: RE: Pt Mugu Air Show and SoCAL RVs
Mr. Gummo,
We put our heads together this morning, and out of the pile of rocks we have come
up with a proposal. While the Pt. Mugu Air Show is a "military" show, it is
also a "community event." We want to be as inclusive as possible, within limits.
Having said all that, we can dig up some extra bodies to make a hole in
the fence Sat. & Sun. morning and evening to allow you and your group to get
in and out. The arrival window would be 0645-0730, and the departure time would
be after 1730. Is this doable?
V/r,
LCDR Bill Boggs
NBVC Point Mugu
Air Operations Officer
Comm: (805) 989-7041
DSN: 351-7041
-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Gummo [mailto:T.gummo(at)verizon.net]
Subject: Re: Pt Mugu Air Show and SoCAL RVs
Sir,
I understand your problem and don't see a way around it. I live in Apple Valley
and the other SoCal RVators are from all over the southern California area.
If we fly our planes in Thursday or Friday, what am we going to do for those
four days (Thursday, Friday, Saturday, and Sunday). We have no place to stay
and pick me up and then do it again on Monday to get the plane.
Of course not at a military field, we have flown in before the gates open and
leave after the show closes or near the end. Our planes only weigh about 1000
pounds and are very easily pushed passed the prop line (crowd control line)
but we would need a gate if there is a fence.
I would like to thank you for your efforts at the last minute to try to make
this work out. I would be glad to try again next time to make this work. Hopefully,
if I can get involved early in the planning process, I would be able
to clear up our needs with your requirements. There are many other issues that
would need to be worked out to have the planes RON for the weekend.
Also, let me take a minute to thank you and all the Pt. Mugu folks for your
service to our country.
My time in the barrel has passed but I see that it is in very good hands. Hand
salute.
Tom "GummiBear" Gummo
Wild Weasel #1753
F-4G Instructor Pilot
Major USAF, Retired
Apple Valley, CA
Harmon Rocket - II
http://mysite.verizon.net/t.gummo/index.html
----- Original Message -----
From: Boggs, William A LCDR
To: Swaney, Mark CAPT NAVAIRWARCENWPNDIV Bldg 36, Rm 2305
Cc: Tom Gummo ; Krumholz, Paul J LT ; Gould, Richard AE1 NAVTESTWINGPAC 561000E
; Graziano, Thomas A CDR
Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2004 4:31 PM
Subject: RE: Pt Mugu Air Show and SoCAL RVs
Sir,
The Thurs. arrival time was to facilitate fence installation. We can adjust
that to allow for the group to fly in Friday morning. After that the airfield
will be closed for performer practice and finalizing field set up. We will have
a few tactical aircraft arriving Friday evening, but that is on the other
side of the airfield from where we will spot the RV's. Once they arrive, they
need to stay for the whole weekend.
V/r,
LCDR Bill Boggs
NBVC Point Mugu
Air Operations Officer
Comm: (805) 989-7041
DSN: 351-7041
-----Original Message-----
From: Swaney, Mark CAPT NAVAIRWARCENWPNDIV Bldg 36, Rm 2305
Sent: Friday, September 03, 2004 17:19
To: Boggs, William A LCDR
Cc: 'Tom Gummo'; Krumholz, Paul J LT; Gould, Richard AE1 NAVTESTWINGPAC 561000E
Subject: RE: Pt Mugu Air Show and SoCAL RVs
Importance: High
Bill,
This very late proposal to the RV group is completely out of line with what had
been described during our earlier discussions. There is no way they can bring
in their aircraft on Thursday and leave them for the weekend. It's not like
you're paying them or providing fuel like you are for other acts and displays.
There must be some way this can be worked out? I've worked this airshow
for many years in the past doing everything from setting up seating to coordinating
the performers and we've always had a way to get a few folks in and out
before/after the show times.
VR,
CAPT Mark Swaney, USN
Vice Commander, NAVAIR's Weapons Division
Point Mugu & China Lake, CA
Email: mark.swaney(at)navy.mil
805-989-7113 (Office)
805-816-3042 (Cellular)
-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Gummo [mailto:T.gummo(at)verizon.net]
Sent: Friday, September 03, 2004 17:06
To: Swaney, Mark CAPT NAVAIRWARCENWPNDIV Bldg 36, Rm 2305
Subject: Fw: Pt Mugu Air Show and SoCAL RVs
WOW.
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: Krumholz, Paul J LT
To: Tom Gummo
Cc: Boggs, William A LCDR
Sent: Friday, September 03, 2004 3:39 PM
Subject: RE: Pt Mugu Air Show and SoCAL RVs
Tom,
We are expecting 8 RVators for the show. I got the insurance papaers from Rick.
I think as long as everyone has their DD2400 with them we should be good.
However, there is just no way you can leave Saturday and bring in 8 different
aircraft. There is too much in the way between your parking and the rwy. Our
contractor is putting up the crowd control fence on Thursday afternoon, can
you arrive prior to this? Sorry for the hassles, let me know what you can do.
V/R,
Paul
-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Gummo [mailto:T.gummo(at)verizon.net]
Sent: Friday, September 03, 2004 15:29
To: Krumholz, Paul J LT
Cc: Swaney, Mark CAPT NAVAIRWARCENWPNDIV Bldg 36, Rm 2305
Subject: Pt Mugu Air Show and SoCAL RVs
Paul,
Just checking in with you about the air show. I understand Capt Swaney has been
working with you on our behalf.
I understand Rick Gould has take my DD 2400, DD 2401, DD 2402 forms to you.
You stated in one of your emails about making sure the insurance is in order.
Just what paperwork will we need?
Will we be able to leave Saturday evening after the show and fly in new planes
Sunday?
Can I leave my plane over night and stay both days?
I would be glad to fly to Pt Mugu or CMA and met with you.
Thanks,
Tom "GummiBear" Gummo
Wild Weasel #1753
F-4G Instructor Pilot, USAF, Major Retired
http://mysite.verizon.net/t.gummo/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
Hi,
The discussions about aerobatics and not exceeding Vne
made me wonder what kinds of things would need to be
done to increase the Vne for an RV.
I guess the Rocket guys have done something in this
respect, so there must be some experience. I'm
mainly thinking about issues like flutter.
Anything we can do without a total redesign?
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: > Re: Brake Fluid |
Bob,
DOT 5 is not gylcerine based, it's silicone based. It's fairly inert. Not at all
like DOT 2, 3 or 4
Charlie Kuss
>
> From: Oldsfolks(at)aol.com
> Date: 2004/09/07 Tue PM 10:37:27 EDT
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: > Re: Brake Fluid
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing gear intersection fairings. |
Stein Bruch wrote:
>
> The Team rocket fairings are the way to go, even with the gear legs. They
> are thicker, beefier and believe it or not just look better on the plane.
> When I part my 2 RV6's side by side, the one with the rocket fairings always
> looks better. It just looks a bit stronger and bigger. The prices are the
> same as Van's, and the intersection fairings are a fairly nice fit, but
> still require some tweaking. You can see a crappy picture of them at:
> http://www.steinair.com/engine.htm at the very bottom of the page. I'll get
> some more pics this afternoon if anyone wants them (contactme off list).
>
> Anyay, just my 2 cents. Any new RV's from me will have the rocket fairings.
>
> FYI, my Black RV6 has the fairings from Bob at fairings, etc.. and they also
> work fine.
More photos and copy about the attractive Team Rocket fairings:
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/fairings.htm
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
rv-list
| Subject: | #6 Tefzel wire on ebay |
Just noticed somebody selling (supposedly) #6 Tefzel wire for 0.89/foot
and thought I pass it along.
top of page price is 0.99, scroll down a little and the 'buy it now'
price per foot is 0.89.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2489101063&category=26439&sspagename=WDVW
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: how to feed the battery cable through the firewall?? |
Maybe, don't know, but I would use a high temp plastic material if I
would make/use one.
thomas a. sargent wrote:
>
> I would be a little suspicious about the thru-bolt type of pass-thru.
> The insulating material seems to be (from the pictures, anyway) a
> plastic of some sort. I would think a fire would ruin that in seconds.
> Do they make these things with a ceramic insulator?
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Looking for first RV ride, Dallas area |
I'm wondering if anybody from the Dallas area can give a first RV ride to a
buddy of mine. His name is Troy Whistman, and I Cc'd him on this email.
He's contemplating building an RV and has never had an RV grin...any takers?
Thanks in advance!
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for first RV ride, Dallas area |
Best I can do is give him a look at mine under construction @ TKI this
weekend and refer him to my EAA chapter at tomorrow nites meeting.......
Ralph Capen
N822AR RV6A - plexi and fiberglass.....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: RV-List: Looking for first RV ride, Dallas area
>
> I'm wondering if anybody from the Dallas area can give a first RV ride to
a
> buddy of mine. His name is Troy Whistman, and I Cc'd him on this email.
> He's contemplating building an RV and has never had an RV grin...any
takers?
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for first RV ride, Dallas area |
Dan Checkoway wrote:
>
>I'm wondering if anybody from the Dallas area can give a first RV ride to a
>buddy of mine. His name is Troy Whistman, and I Cc'd him on this email.
>He's contemplating building an RV and has never had an RV grin...any takers?
>
>Thanks in advance!
>
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
I'm planning on making the flyin in Monroe LA this Saturday. If he can
fly/drive there I'd be glad to accomodate. (long drive but not too bad a
flight even in something slow)
Charlie
flying -4
-7 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
Keith:
I have only bid on a couple of aircraft in the past. Typically you have to
bid on the entire aircraft and it is always to my knowledge as is where is.
http://www.aviation-salvage.com/
I purchased a wrecked Tri-Pacer of $2,600 delivered form a private party. I
saw my engine run before purchasing the wreck minus wings and radios. That
was 10 or twelve years ago. On the 17th, my airplane has been flying 7
years. The engine has over 4,500 hours on it.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,584 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: "rv6tc" <rv6tc(at)myawai.com>
Subject: RV-List: engine cores
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2004 21:35:16 -0600
Insensitive question follows......
Given the recent disaster(s) in Florida, one would assume that a number of
rebuild-able engines/ cores would soon come on the market. If that is the
case, do insurance companies sell directly to individuals, or are they all
going to the big name shops? I'm not sure of the procedures involved when
the claims get settled to part out the remains. Info would be appreciated.
Keith Hughes
Denver
RV-6 finish
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Riveting Aileron Top Skin |
| From: | "" <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com> |
List,
Any suggestions on how best to rivet the aileron top skin? I am hesitant to start,
as I see myself making a golf ball out of this one. I read Dan C's method...I
will likely go that route if I don't get any better ideas.
Thanks in advance,
Scott
7A Wings done, finishing control surfaces
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alan McKeen" <amckeen(at)twcny.rr.com> |
| Subject: | RV Forum EAA Chapter 486 Fulton New York KFZY Saturday Sept. |
11
The forecast for Saturday looks very good for this RV Builder/Flyer annual event.
Nice airport, excellent facility, lots of RV's from Canada and USA have attended.
The Chapter will be open Friday afternoon through Sunday. Saturday activities
are planned for all day and evening. Fly in to chat with other RV Builder/Flyers.
Alan McKeen
RV-6
N418AL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronnie Brown" <romott(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: engine cores |
I also saw on the news that many of the airplanes in Florida are owned by older
pilots, some of which weren't flying any more and they were not insured.
Perhaps some of these will show up on eBay or if you have contacts in Florida,
have them nose around the airports and see what might be available from individuals?
As someone mentioned, you would have to buy the whole airplane but there's lots
of parts you could salvage from power and starter relays to instruments and radios.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wgill10(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting Aileron Top Skin |
Look at Phil B's site. Very easy using his method and can be done solo.
Have a great day,
Bill
-------------- Original message --------------
>
>
> List,
>
> Any suggestions on how best to rivet the aileron top skin? I am hesitant to
> start, as I see myself making a golf ball out of this one. I read Dan C's
> method...I will likely go that route if I don't get any better ideas.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Scott
> 7A Wings done, finishing control surfaces
>
> Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
> The most personalized portal on the Web!
>
>
>
>
>
>
Look at Phil B's site. Very easy using his method and can be done solo.
Have a great day,
Bill
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: ""
List,
Any suggestions on how best to rivet the aileron top skin? I am hesitant to
start, as I see myself making a golf ball out of this one. I read Dan C's
method...I will likely go that route if I don't get any better ideas.
Thanks in advance,
Scott
7A Wings done, finishing control surfaces
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
Lists: http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gerald conrad <gwcgwc(at)videotron.ca> |
| Subject: | Empennage kit Wanted |
Wanted. Empennage kit for a RV-6. Prefer not built, but might consider partial
built. Reply off line.
Gerry Conrad
RV-6A ....50 hrs C-GCUN
RV-6 kit, Damaged empennage
Montreal, Canada
gwcgwc(at)videotron.ca
514-697-0656
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Duckett <perfeng(at)3rivers.net> |
In regards to Dave Carter's query about purchasing automotive "totals"
and looking for an engine from an RX-8...Well Dave the insurance
companies have a reason for not wanting to sell a private party a
"Salvage" or "Total Loss" vehicle. Long story short, they only want to
pay out for the vehicle once. They seem to feel that if the vehicle is
sold to anyone other than a wrecking yard there is the possibility that
they may have pay out on it again if it were repaired and re-insured.
That's why a vehicle that gets damaged to any extent is nearly always
salvaged. As a Licensed Dealer we've bought vehicles worth $30,000 for
as little as $1500 that had less than $5,000 actual damage. The catch
was they had "Salvage Titles" and could not be financed and most
insurance companies wouldn't insure them. So they get parted out or scraped.
The reason you hear that they have gone this way is to reduce or
eliminate "Chop Shops", while in fact they actually perpetuate these
operations. To that end, in most parts of the country that is why you
have to be a Licensed Dealer to buy the salvage. Around the Pacific
Northwest the insurance companies generally won't even talk to a private
party, not even the owner. Can you say "Bureaucratic Involvement"?
With the limited exposure I've had in dealing with aviation salvage,
it's doesn't seem to be far behind in their mindset.
As an option you only need a sign, a phone, a building, and pay a
$150-$500 annual license fee to be a wrecking yard in some States.
Just my two cents...
Jim Duckett RV-7A
Do Not Archieve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jacklockamy" <jacklockamy(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Asphalt Hangar Floor? |
Hopefully this is RV related.....
How do you seal and paint (white or light gray) an asphalt hangar floor that is
dark, full of holes, greasy spots, etc.?
I've been in hangars that are bare asphalt and the lighting becomes useless.....
. I've been in hangars where the floor has been painted white or light-gray
and everything seems brighter.
I'm just looking for suggestions on material and methods to brighten up a hangar
with a poor asphalt floor.....
Thanks,
Jack
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: > Re:Asphalt Hangar Floor |
Sawdust ??
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Asphalt Hangar Floor? |
Jack,
We did one at TOA some years ago by cleaning the floor as well as
possible and then applying "thin set" concrete over the entire floor and
covering it with a light grey epoxy floor paint. It wasn't perfect, but
it was a LOT better then asphalt!
Dave
jacklockamy wrote:
>
>Hopefully this is RV related.....
>
>How do you seal and paint (white or light gray) an asphalt hangar floor that is
dark, full of holes, greasy spots, etc.?
>
>I've been in hangars that are bare asphalt and the lighting becomes useless.....
. I've been in hangars where the floor has been painted white or light-gray
and everything seems brighter.
>
>I'm just looking for suggestions on material and methods to brighten up a hangar
with a poor asphalt floor.....
>
>Thanks,
>Jack
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Minnesota Fly-in/ camp in |
Just a last minute reminder - our annual fly-in picnic and camp-in is
starting tomorrow, Friday. The picnic is Saturday at noon, bring a
chair and a side dish to share. Details at:
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~rvflyin/
No excuses - the weather looks great anywhere close to here this
weekend! Call me at 612-419-9710 with any questions.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 521 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Minnesota Fly-in/ camp in |
Oops, my actual phone number is 612-418-9710, sorry.
> No excuses - the
> weather looks great anywhere close to here this weekend!
> Call me at 612-419-9710 with any questions.
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> RV6-A N66AP 521 hours. First flight 3 years ago today!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Eastham <eastham(at)netapp.com> |
Hi all,
Can someone straighten me out on a minor landing gear issue? The
manual says to tighten the axle nut until all "side play" is removed
but the wheel still turns smoothly. Frankly, I don't see any side
play even with the axle nut removed, and the wheel turns pretty
smoothly regardless of how hard I tighten by hand.
So... how tight is tight? My intuition is to tighten it just barely
snug, fingertip tight...?
Thanks,
Paul
http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham
9A fuse/finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: axle nut torque |
Hi Paul,
My way:
In order to assure that the bearings inner races and spacers etc are fitted
mechanically tight, excess grease must be squeezed away from between the
various parts. To do this it is necessary to first over tighten them
somewhat.
Turn the axel nut by hand until snug, rotate the wheel. Then use a wrench or
some channel lock type pliers to tighten the axel nut about 1/4 to 1/2 a
turn. While doing this rotate the wheel.
An alternate procedure is to tighten the axel nut only until the wheel
`begins' to resist being rotated. Rotating the wheel at least a few
revolutions while the axel nut is "over tightened" will allow the tapered
rollers to align themselves within the races while under the artificially
induced load.
Once this is done release the load on the bearings (back the axel nut off)
then gently turn the axel nut with the tool of choice until the axel nut
mechanically stops. At this point turning the nut just a quarter flat or so
will apply some pre-load.
After the initial flight/s it will be necessary to recheck the fit and
re-adjust if or as required.
I have had the pleasure of adjusting quite a number of wheel bearings and
have not had any complaints about failures so far, However; I have seen
several opinions as to the finer points of adjusting axel bearings.
Their way:
I therefore suggest that you contact one of the bearing manufacturers or
Vans directly and take the above as a mere guide line as to procedure.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Eastham" <eastham(at)netapp.com>
Subject: RV-List: axle nut torque
>
> Hi all,
> Can someone straighten me out on a minor landing gear issue? The
> manual says to tighten the axle nut until all "side play" is removed
> but the wheel still turns smoothly. Frankly, I don't see any side
> play even with the axle nut removed, and the wheel turns pretty
> smoothly regardless of how hard I tighten by hand.
>
> So... how tight is tight? My intuition is to tighten it just barely
> snug, fingertip tight...?
>
> Thanks,
> Paul
> http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham
> 9A fuse/finishing
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Solid State gyro Dynon D-10 errors |
| From: | "Dennis Parker" <dennis(at)k2workflow.com> |
That being the case - can anyone shed any light on the gyros in use on
the Tru Track and other similar autopilot products. I would imagine that
we should be seeing similar issues with them and I have not seen a post
reporting any problems on those products?
Regards
Dennis
71041
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ed Anderson
Subject: RV-List: Solid State gyro Dynon D-10 errors
If the Dynon uses "solid state" gyros as part of their stabilization
mechanism then I can see the possibility that the problem could be RPM
related. Unlike the spinning mass gyro the solid state gyro rely on a
vibrating electric element to establish a spatial reference plane. IF
the
frequency of the engine (or a harmonic of the basic engine frequency)
happens to fall within the proper range then it could be influencing the
vibrating element and confusing the processing of the signal from the
that
element. If that is the case, then perhaps better physical isolation
might
cure the problem.
Any correlation between engine type such as the larger 360 causing
more of
a problem than say the 320??
Ed
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Point" <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon D-10 errors
>
> Mike,
>
> With about 90 hours on my D-10, I have also seen the roll error you
> described on occasion. I limit my flying to VFR for now. If I ever
get
> my prop back I'll do some testing and see if it is RPM related.
>
> Jeff Point
> RV-6
> Milwaukee WI
>
> >
> >
>
>
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Solid State gyro Dynon D-10 errors |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis Parker" <dennis(at)k2workflow.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Solid State gyro Dynon D-10 errors
>
> That being the case - can anyone shed any light on the gyros in use on
> the Tru Track and other similar autopilot products. I would imagine that
> we should be seeing similar issues with them and I have not seen a post
> reporting any problems on those products?
>
> Regards
>
> Dennis
> 71041
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ed Anderson
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Solid State gyro Dynon D-10 errors
>
>
> If the Dynon uses "solid state" gyros as part of their stabilization
> mechanism then I can see the possibility that the problem could be RPM
> related. Unlike the spinning mass gyro the solid state gyro rely on a
> vibrating electric element to establish a spatial reference plane. IF
> the
> frequency of the engine (or a harmonic of the basic engine frequency)
> happens to fall within the proper range then it could be influencing the
> vibrating element and confusing the processing of the signal from the
> that
> element. If that is the case, then perhaps better physical isolation
> might
> cure the problem.
>
> Any correlation between engine type such as the larger 360 causing
> more of
> a problem than say the 320??
>
> Ed
>
> Ed Anderson
> RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> Matthews, NC
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jeff Point" <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon D-10 errors
>
>
> >
> > Mike,
> >
> > With about 90 hours on my D-10, I have also seen the roll error you
> > described on occasion. I limit my flying to VFR for now. If I ever
> get
> > my prop back I'll do some testing and see if it is RPM related.
> >
> > Jeff Point
> > RV-6
> > Milwaukee WI
> >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
> =
> =
> =
> =
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Bibb" <rebibb(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Asphalt Hangar Floor? |
I don't know exactly what it is but the sealer they use for tennis courts is
available in different colors. That is probably better as it is formulated
for it. Lacking that industrial grade epoxy floor paint will stick to
asphalt but as the aslpshalt "flakes" you will get paint colored asphalt
pieces intead of asphalt colored pieces. Not sure what to prep the asphalt
with as yuou use muratic acid on concrete.
----- Original Message -----
From: "jacklockamy" <jacklockamy(at)verizon.net>
Subject: RV-List: Asphalt Hangar Floor?
>
> Hopefully this is RV related.....
>
> How do you seal and paint (white or light gray) an asphalt hangar floor
that is dark, full of holes, greasy spots, etc.?
>
> I've been in hangars that are bare asphalt and the lighting becomes
useless..... . I've been in hangars where the floor has been painted white
or light-gray and everything seems brighter.
>
> I'm just looking for suggestions on material and methods to brighten up a
hangar with a poor asphalt floor.....
>
> Thanks,
> Jack
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: axle nut torque |
Among all the prior posts on this issue Paul, the following is my favorite: Tighten
until you just start to feel some drag then back off a tad til the drag
is gone. The grease prevents good sensing of end play & the tapered roller bearings
will have a short life if they can bang around even a little. Both end
play and rotational effort take some tactile sensitivity so whichever method
you choose, work at it til you can feel the differences. Don't worry about using
a wrench to tighten the nut.
Dave Reel - RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Solid State gyro Dynon D-10 errors |
Dennis Parker wrote:
>
> That being the case - can anyone shed any light on the gyros in use on
> the Tru Track and other similar autopilot products. I would imagine that
> we should be seeing similar issues with them and I have not seen a post
> reporting any problems on those products?
I have seen absolutely no sensor errors (or heard any reports of them or
any other type error for that matter) with my EZ-Pilot autopilot.
Haven't heard any reports of sensor problems with the DigiTrak, either.
Sam Buchanan
http://sambuchanan.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronnie Brown" <romott(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Dynon D-10 errors |
The new software indeed seems to have fixed the problem on the Europa. This involved
a change in the sampling rate. Here's a copy of the note from my Europa
friend to Dynon:
Hi John and Nick,
I have just returned from my first test flight after loading version
1.09.04 to my D-10. I am pleased to report that I ran the plane straight
and level at 100 rpm intervals from 5800 engine rpm ( 2386 prop rpm for
take off) to 4000 rpm, ( 1646 prop rpm for low speed approach descent).
I did not see any instability at any speed. The attitude indicator
appeared to be indicating correctly during the whole flight. The turn
indicator also showed no oscillation or erratic indication. This is a
preliminary feedback, of course, but my problem of erratic horizon and
turn indication.appears to be cured.
With best regards,
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Solid State gyro Dynon D-10 errors |
Unfortunately, We are sending back our Digitrak 200VS for the second time
now for sensor errors. Both times for the roll sensor.
The first time the autopilot would send the aircraft off on some unknown
direction. Trying to override it caused the shear pin in the roll servo to
shear. Trutrak fixed both the servo and controller quite promptly and we
had everything working prior to Arlington.
The second time was about two weeks ago on a long X-country flight. The
aircraft started wandering about 5 degrees left and right of the flight
path. As time went on it got worse. I contacted Jim at Trutrak and he
confirmed that the roll sensor has gone crazy again.
Trutrak has also sufferd a big blow this last week. One of their chief
engineers was killed in a car accident. According to them it is going to
slow things down for a few weeks until they can get the work load
re-organized.
Mike Robertson
>From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Solid State gyro Dynon D-10 errors
>Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2004 09:33:42 -0500
>
>
>Dennis Parker wrote:
> >
> > That being the case - can anyone shed any light on the gyros in use on
> > the Tru Track and other similar autopilot products. I would imagine that
> > we should be seeing similar issues with them and I have not seen a post
> > reporting any problems on those products?
>
>
>I have seen absolutely no sensor errors (or heard any reports of them or
>any other type error for that matter) with my EZ-Pilot autopilot.
>
>Haven't heard any reports of sensor problems with the DigiTrak, either.
>
>Sam Buchanan
>http://sambuchanan.com
>
>
Check out Election 2004 for up-to-date election news, plus voter tools and
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Good" <chrisjgood(at)lycos.com> |
| Subject: | Re: axle nut torque |
Paul,
For the main axle nuts on my 6A, I followed a note that came from
"18 yrs of the RVator" that said:
Torque 600 in/lbs, back off & retorque 120-180 in/lbs.
Maybe someone can come up with the complete article for you.
Regards,
Chris Good
West Bend, WI
RV-6A 770 hrs.
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Eastham <eastham(at)netapp.com>
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 22:38:54 -0700
Subject: RV-List: axle nut torque
Hi all,
Can someone straighten me out on a minor landing gear issue? The
manual says to tighten the axle nut until all "side play" is removed
but the wheel still turns smoothly. Frankly, I don't see any side
play even with the axle nut removed, and the wheel turns pretty
smoothly regardless of how hard I tighten by hand.
So... how tight is tight? My intuition is to tighten it just barely
snug, fingertip tight...?
Thanks,
Paul
http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham
9A fuse/finishing
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Brick" <jbrick(at)wolfenet.com> |
| Subject: | Solid State gyro Dynon D-10 errors |
An RV-4 pilot here had that kind of trouble with his TruTrak Digiflight 200.
He experienced the problem within a few weeks of installation. Excursions in
pitch, as I recall. He said that TruTrak suspected it was vibration related
and had him return the unit for new gyros and software. TruTrak told him
that this was not the first instance of this problem on RV-4's.
He has it back from TruTrak but hasn't flown it yet because of other work on
the aircraft.
This is all second hand info so it would be best to contact TruTrak directly
for the straight skinny.
jb
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sam Buchanan
> Sent: Friday, September 10, 2004 7:34 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Solid State gyro Dynon D-10 errors
>
>
> Dennis Parker wrote:
> >
> > That being the case - can anyone shed any light on the gyros in use on
> > the Tru Track and other similar autopilot products. I would imagine that
> > we should be seeing similar issues with them and I have not seen a post
> > reporting any problems on those products?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | TruTrak Roll Error was Solid State gyro Dynon D-10 errors |
I had similar symptoms but the problem was not roll sensor error but
repairman error. It all started on a bumpy flight to Scappoose in which
the shear pin broke on the aileron (roll) servo. This was one of the
early shear pins that were manufactured to break a bit to early. The
new ones are more beefy. TruTrak shipped me a couple of new shear pins
(post haste as they always do) and I installed it a few days before I
left for Oshkosh. During the entire flight, the autopilot would first
rock left then right then left then right.....you get the picture. I
was mystified because in the 60+ hours I used the TruTrak it had always
been rock solid. At Oshkosh, Jim Younkin came out to my plane and found
that the shear pin on the aileron servo was not tightened all the way
into the hole on the servo arm. To help you understand this more, the
shear pin is a brass screw with a large barrel head that has been
machined down a bit right below the head. The head of the screw has to
go all the way INTO the hole of the servo arm. Apparently, I had
installed the shear pin so that the head of the screw was on top of the
servo arm (like every other screw on the airplane). What was happening
was that the servo arm had about a 1/16" play on each side of the shear
pin. The rolling I was experiencing was just the servo taking up the
slack. I installed another shear pin at Oshkosh and on the return
flight the unit was rock solid again. Another thing to remember if you
replace the shear pin. Don't over tighten it. Snug it in with a bit of
blue lock tight. If you put to much torque on the shear pin it will
weaken it at the machined point and it will shear to soon...like during
moderate turbulence at 1500 feet over North Dakota...but that is another
story all together.
Now my TruTrak DFC 250 is rock solid again.
Ross Mickey
N9PT
Just passed through 100 hrs
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Robertson
Subject: Re: RV-List: Solid State gyro Dynon D-10 errors
Unfortunately, We are sending back our Digitrak 200VS for the second
time
now for sensor errors. Both times for the roll sensor.
The first time the autopilot would send the aircraft off on some unknown
direction. Trying to override it caused the shear pin in the roll servo
to
shear. Trutrak fixed both the servo and controller quite promptly and
we
had everything working prior to Arlington.
The second time was about two weeks ago on a long X-country flight. The
aircraft started wandering about 5 degrees left and right of the flight
path. As time went on it got worse. I contacted Jim at Trutrak and he
confirmed that the roll sensor has gone crazy again.
Trutrak has also sufferd a big blow this last week. One of their chief
engineers was killed in a car accident. According to them it is going
to
slow things down for a few weeks until they can get the work load
re-organized.
Mike Robertson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "patti" <n255gh(at)frontiernet.net> |
List :
I have a io 320 e2b with a bendix rsa 5ad1 fuel injection system. I'm
looking for a good book that would show me how to pipe it up. Any help would
be appreciated.
n255gh
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Solid State gyro Dynon D-10 errors |
| From: | "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net> |
There have been reports of similar errors with the True Trak units,
although I have not seen any on 'the list'.
Early in the development of the Trio unit they experienced similar
errors with a particular type of gyro. They delayed deployment, at least
one year, until a new gyro, MEMS I believe became available to them.
According to them ( I have spoken with them this week to inquire
specifically on this mater), and my experience to date, they have not
received one single report of any gyro errors of this nature.
The Mems gyros are used in inertial reference systems on certified
aircraft.
Regards,
Mike Stewart
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dennis Parker
Subject: RE: RV-List: Solid State gyro Dynon D-10 errors
That being the case - can anyone shed any light on the gyros in use on
the Tru Track and other similar autopilot products. I would imagine that
we should be seeing similar issues with them and I have not seen a post
reporting any problems on those products?
Regards
Dennis
71041
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ed Anderson
Subject: RV-List: Solid State gyro Dynon D-10 errors
If the Dynon uses "solid state" gyros as part of their stabilization
mechanism then I can see the possibility that the problem could be RPM
related. Unlike the spinning mass gyro the solid state gyro rely on a
vibrating electric element to establish a spatial reference plane. IF
the
frequency of the engine (or a harmonic of the basic engine frequency)
happens to fall within the proper range then it could be influencing the
vibrating element and confusing the processing of the signal from the
that
element. If that is the case, then perhaps better physical isolation
might
cure the problem.
Any correlation between engine type such as the larger 360 causing
more of
a problem than say the 320??
Ed
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Point" <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon D-10 errors
>
> Mike,
>
> With about 90 hours on my D-10, I have also seen the roll error you
> described on occasion. I limit my flying to VFR for now. If I ever
get
> my prop back I'll do some testing and see if it is RPM related.
>
> Jeff Point
> RV-6
> Milwaukee WI
>
> >
> >
>
>
=
=
=
=
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Archer Antenna & Strobe Powerpack |
I am installing a Bob Archer VOR antenna in the fiberglass 7 wingtip. I
have individual strobe power units which I also intend to mount at the
wingtips. Has anyone had flight experience with such a setup and have there
been problems with interference (having the power supply so close to the
antenna)?
The instructions say to route the navlight power cable along the front of
the antenna, but I am somewhat reluctant to run the strobe along the same
route because of the high voltage. Any experience with this?
I plan on mounting the strobe power supply on the last rib with wires
running to the wingtip cutout in the typical location. I've been scratching
my head about this for a few days and feel stumped because there is no way
to test it until the bird takes wing. Any help -- any ideas -- are better
than where I am now .....
Kathleen Evans
www.rv7.us
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Wiegenstein" <n727jw(at)hellerwiegenstein.com> |
| Subject: | First Flight: N727JW (RV-6 S/N 23961) |
At the risk of drawing unwanted attention from the list police for posting
improper material (Herr Ashcroft and his boys will probably be putting me
into some database now.....), I am VERY pleased to report that RV-6 N727JW
has finally taken flight. I began work on this slow-build tipup 6 in early
1995. Family, law practice, and other hobbies meant that the project
stretched out longer than many, but I kept at it. N727JW finally received
its airworthiness certificate on 9/6/2004 from DAR James Devany (Joyce, WA),
(TIW) in Gig Harbor, WA. The 40 minute flight went smoothly, with no squawks
except a slightly heavy right wing, and the need for a small amount of right
rudder trim. Power is a new O-360-A1A with a new Hartzell "blended airfoil"
C/S prop, both from Van's, so takeoff and climb performance were impressive.
Panel is "not quite IFR", and empty weight without paint or wheel/gear leg
fairings ended up right at 1,000 lb. Mike Seager's transition course was
worth every penny, and helped to make the flight as "routine" as could be
expected. An absolutely fabulous feeling and experience!
I'll say it again, even though its been said many times before: to all you
guys (and gals) still building, keep pounding those rivets and pressing on,
whatever the hardships and temporary setbacks. It WILL be finished some
day, and when it is and you have taken flight, you will have joined a very
small, elite group, and will experience a level of personal satisfaction and
accomplishment that few people know. You will also have learned a
tremendous amount of information about your aircraft specifically, and
aircraft construction, certification, and design in general. To me, that
can only make you (and me) a safer, better educated pilot once the bird is
ready to leave the nest.
And, to those who have posted advice, comments, etc. on this list and in
other forums (fora?) over the years, thanks for the good information. The
'net and broadband have allowed us all to wallow in way more garbage than we
might like, but it also has nuggets of great information, and this list has
had many of those over the years for a lurker like me. I cannot imagine
how our forebears created homebuilts before the internet and before the kits
that we all enjoy today. My hat is off to them.
Gotta go fly now!
John H. Wiegenstein
HELLER WIEGENSTEIN PLLC
19301 - 8th Ave. NE, Suite A
Poulsbo, WA 98370
(360) 394-3500
(360) 394-3503 FAX
johnw(at)hellerwiegenstein.com
www.hellerwiegenstein.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Archer Antenna & Strobe Powerpack |
Kathleen,
I have Bob's VOR antenna in the wingtip of the -7 along with the
strobes--but not the power supplies. I would also give Bob Archer a call,
he was very helpful when I called him about my installation. Mine works
perfectly and I doubt that having the power supplies on the outboard rib
would have much effect at all.
Bob will want you to run your strobe wires along the leading edge of the
antenna along with the nav light wires. I believe this is the way he shows
it on his schematic.
Pat Hatch
----- Original Message -----
From: <Kathleen(at)rv7.us>
Subject: RV-List: Archer Antenna & Strobe Powerpack
>
>
> I am installing a Bob Archer VOR antenna in the fiberglass 7 wingtip. I
> have individual strobe power units which I also intend to mount at the
> wingtips. Has anyone had flight experience with such a setup and have
there
> been problems with interference (having the power supply so close to the
> antenna)?
>
> The instructions say to route the navlight power cable along the front of
> the antenna, but I am somewhat reluctant to run the strobe along the same
> route because of the high voltage. Any experience with this?
>
> I plan on mounting the strobe power supply on the last rib with wires
> running to the wingtip cutout in the typical location. I've been
scratching
> my head about this for a few days and feel stumped because there is no way
> to test it until the bird takes wing. Any help -- any ideas -- are better
> than where I am now .....
>
> Kathleen Evans
> www.rv7.us
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Archer Antenna & Strobe Powerpack |
Kathleen(at)rv7.us wrote:
>
>
> I am installing a Bob Archer VOR antenna in the fiberglass 7 wingtip. I
> have individual strobe power units which I also intend to mount at the
> wingtips. Has anyone had flight experience with such a setup and have there
> been problems with interference (having the power supply so close to the
> antenna)?
>
> The instructions say to route the navlight power cable along the front of
> the antenna, but I am somewhat reluctant to run the strobe along the same
> route because of the high voltage. Any experience with this?
Kathleen, I have exactly the setup you are describing:
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/sportcraft.htm
>
> I plan on mounting the strobe power supply on the last rib with wires
> running to the wingtip cutout in the typical location. I've been scratching
> my head about this for a few days and feel stumped because there is no way
> to test it until the bird takes wing. Any help -- any ideas -- are better
> than where I am now .....
The Sportcraft antenna and strobe power supplies will coexist very
happily. :-)
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Archer Antenna & Strobe Powerpack |
I have the power packs mounted on the end rib, and an Archer antenna in
the right tip.
No interference......just follow the instructions as written and don't
over think it.
Laird RV-6 1000 hrs
SoCal
On Sep 10, 2004, at 1:29 PM, Kathleen(at)rv7.us wrote:
>
>
> I am installing a Bob Archer VOR antenna in the fiberglass 7 wingtip.
> I
> have individual strobe power units which I also intend to mount at the
> wingtips. Has anyone had flight experience with such a setup and have
> there
> been problems with interference (having the power supply so close to
> the
> antenna)?
>
> The instructions say to route the navlight power cable along the front
> of
> the antenna, but I am somewhat reluctant to run the strobe along the
> same
> route because of the high voltage. Any experience with this?
>
> I plan on mounting the strobe power supply on the last rib with wires
> running to the wingtip cutout in the typical location. I've been
> scratching
> my head about this for a few days and feel stumped because there is no
> way
> to test it until the bird takes wing. Any help -- any ideas -- are
> better
> than where I am now .....
>
> Kathleen Evans
> www.rv7.us
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Archer Antenna & Strobe Powerpack |
OK folks, I got it. I have mounted my first power pack on the end rib and
I'll stop worrying about it. If it doesn't work out, I'll punish you all by
posting irrelevant chatter on the list every day for a month (but then I'll
probably get arrested by the list police, right?)....
Thanks much, :-)
Kathleen Evans
www.rv7.us
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Laird Owens
Subject: Re: RV-List: Archer Antenna & Strobe Powerpack
I have the power packs mounted on the end rib, and an Archer antenna in
the right tip.
No interference......just follow the instructions as written and don't
over think it.
Laird RV-6 1000 hrs
SoCal
On Sep 10, 2004, at 1:29 PM, Kathleen(at)rv7.us wrote:
>
>
> I am installing a Bob Archer VOR antenna in the fiberglass 7 wingtip.
> I
> have individual strobe power units which I also intend to mount at the
> wingtips. Has anyone had flight experience with such a setup and have
> there
> been problems with interference (having the power supply so close to
> the
> antenna)?
>
> The instructions say to route the navlight power cable along the front
> of
> the antenna, but I am somewhat reluctant to run the strobe along the
> same
> route because of the high voltage. Any experience with this?
>
> I plan on mounting the strobe power supply on the last rib with wires
> running to the wingtip cutout in the typical location. I've been
> scratching
> my head about this for a few days and feel stumped because there is no
> way
> to test it until the bird takes wing. Any help -- any ideas -- are
> better
> than where I am now .....
>
> Kathleen Evans
> www.rv7.us
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Archer Antenna & Strobe Powerpack |
Kathleen:
Have had the setup you describe and it works great for the past 7 years.
See Sam Buchanan's web site for what it did. Looks like a very similar set
up to me except I have the Wheelen power supplies in the wing tip instead of
the Aeroflash. http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/sportcraft.htm
I can drive over to Bob Arche's house and ask any question that you may
have.
The 2nd Nav antenna that I have is used for the FM signal to my
entertainment center.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,584 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: Kathleen(at)rv7.us
Subject: RV-List: Archer Antenna & Strobe Powerpack
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2004 13:29:37 -0700
I am installing a Bob Archer VOR antenna in the fiberglass 7 wingtip. I
have individual strobe power units which I also intend to mount at the
wingtips. Has anyone had flight experience with such a setup and have there
been problems with interference (having the power supply so close to the
antenna)?
The instructions say to route the navlight power cable along the front of
the antenna, but I am somewhat reluctant to run the strobe along the same
route because of the high voltage. Any experience with this?
I plan on mounting the strobe power supply on the last rib with wires
running to the wingtip cutout in the typical location. I've been scratching
my head about this for a few days and feel stumped because there is no way
to test it until the bird takes wing. Any help -- any ideas -- are better
than where I am now .....
Kathleen Evans
www.rv7.us
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Refilling Compass |
My compass has run low on fluid after 3.5 years of slooooooowly losing fluid somewhere.
No idea where the leak is, because I've never noticed a drip, a damp
spot, or anything other than a slowly falling fluid level. Anyway, what's involved
in re-filling it? How does it come apart? How does it go back together?
How tight should I torque the fasteners that hold it together? I'd appreciate
the whole run-down if someone can give it.
Based on advice from the list and other sources, I'm going to refill it with low
odor mineral spirits.
Thanks in advance,
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chuck <chuck515tigger(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight: N727JW (RV-6 S/N 23961) |
John keep breaking our earthly bonds... and continue to touch the face of God.
John Wiegenstein wrote:
At the risk of drawing unwanted attention from the list police for posting
improper material (Herr Ashcroft and his boys will probably be putting me
into some database now.....), I am VERY pleased to report that RV-6 N727JW
has finally taken flight. I began work on this slow-build tipup 6 in early
1995. Family, law practice, and other hobbies meant that the project
stretched out longer than many, but I kept at it. N727JW finally received
its airworthiness certificate on 9/6/2004 from DAR James Devany (Joyce, WA),
(TIW) in Gig Harbor, WA. The 40 minute flight went smoothly, with no squawks
except a slightly heavy right wing, and the need for a small amount of right
rudder trim. Power is a new O-360-A1A with a new Hartzell "blended airfoil"
C/S prop, both from Van's, so takeoff and climb performance were impressive.
Panel is "not quite IFR", and empty weight without paint or wheel/gear leg
fairings ended up right at 1,000 lb. Mike Seager's transition course was
worth every penny, and helped to make the flight as "routine" as could be
expected. An absolutely fabulous feeling and experience!
I'll say it again, even though its been said many times before: to all you
guys (and gals) still building, keep pounding those rivets and pressing on,
whatever the hardships and temporary setbacks. It WILL be finished some
day, and when it is and you have taken flight, you will have joined a very
small, elite group, and will experience a level of personal satisfaction and
accomplishment that few people know. You will also have learned a
tremendous amount of information about your aircraft specifically, and
aircraft construction, certification, and design in general. To me, that
can only make you (and me) a safer, better educated pilot once the bird is
ready to leave the nest.
And, to those who have posted advice, comments, etc. on this list and in
other forums (fora?) over the years, thanks for the good information. The
'net and broadband have allowed us all to wallow in way more garbage than we
might like, but it also has nuggets of great information, and this list has
had many of those over the years for a lurker like me. I cannot imagine
how our forebears created homebuilts before the internet and before the kits
that we all enjoy today. My hat is off to them.
Gotta go fly now!
John H. Wiegenstein
HELLER WIEGENSTEIN PLLC
19301 - 8th Ave. NE, Suite A
Poulsbo, WA 98370
(360) 394-3500
(360) 394-3503 FAX
johnw(at)hellerwiegenstein.com
www.hellerwiegenstein.com
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Nellis <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Refilling Compass |
Aircraft Spruce sell a repair kit and refil kit that should help you
out. Try this link but it looks like it deals only with the Airpath
Compass. I'm sure you could find a kit for your model by contacting the
Mfg. The kit include the fluid and diaphram. I had mine fixed by my
local A&P before I new I coiuld do it myself.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/nsearch.php?s=compass
Kyle Boatright wrote:
>
>My compass has run low on fluid after 3.5 years of slooooooowly losing fluid somewhere.
No idea where the leak is, because I've never noticed a drip, a damp
spot, or anything other than a slowly falling fluid level. Anyway, what's involved
in re-filling it? How does it come apart? How does it go back together?
How tight should I torque the fasteners that hold it together? I'd appreciate
the whole run-down if someone can give it.
>
>Based on advice from the list and other sources, I'm going to refill it with low
odor mineral spirits.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>KB
>
>
>.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Refilling Compass |
>
> >My compass has run low on fluid after 3.5 years of slooooooowly losing
>fluid somewhere. No idea where the leak is, because I've never noticed a
>drip, a damp spot, or anything other than a slowly falling fluid level.
>Anyway, what's involved in re-filling it? How does it come apart? How
>does it go back together? How tight should I torque the fasteners that
>hold it together? I'd appreciate the whole run-down if someone can give
>it.
> >
> >Based on advice from the list and other sources, I'm going to refill it
>with low odor mineral spirits.
> >
> >Thanks in advance,
> >
> >KB
Same thing here, KB. My compass is flopping around with very little visible
means of liquid support. Never saw a drop of fluid anywhere. Must be
seeping out and evaporating. Took five years to do it. I ordered a
refill/repair kit from Spruce. Bummer is that I installed the thing in a
horrendous location without some form of captive nut or those grasshopper
nuts thingeys. (How DID they get them off the grasshopper and what did he
think about it?) Gonna be a bear to remove. Won't do THAT again on the
RV10 that's for sure!
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Todd Bartrim" <haywire(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Solid State gyro Dynon D-10 errors |
>
>
> If the Dynon uses "solid state" gyros as part of their stabilization
> mechanism then I can see the possibility that the problem could be RPM
> related.
>
> Any correlation between engine type such as the larger 360 causing
> more of
> a problem than say the 320??
>
> Ed
>
> Ed Anderson
> RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> Matthews, NC
>
Hi Ed
I'd be interested and I'm certain that Dynon would as well to know what
engines are in the planes that are experiencing these problems. As you & I
both know, even the smooth rotary has it's own harmonic vibrations, however
in almost 40 hours of flying my Dynon I've yet to see any errors (but I'm
watching closely). I'd like to hear what engine/prop/ignition combinations
are involved to see if there is a common thread.
When I first received my Dynon, I brought it to work at a large mill (had
to show it off to the other instrument mechanics:-) and when turned on it
immediately showed a ~30 degree right bank and a ~10 degree down pitch. The
error remained steady at all times within the shop at the mill. The shop is
solid concrete and feels rock steady, but there was something in there that
was affecting the Dynon. At home it performed flawlessly again, so I brought
it back to work the next day. Same error again. At that time I began to
wonder if vibration or quite possibly electromagnetic interference from all
the industrial equipment was the cause. After installing it I'd pretty much
forgotten about that until now.
Just another bit of info to consider.....
Todd Bartrim (Love my Dynon)
RV9Endurance
13B Turbo Rotary
C-FSTB
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
"The world will always have a place for those that bring hard
work and determination to the things they do."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight: N727JW (RV-6 S/N 23961) |
Congrats John!
Jeff Point
RV-6 slow build, 90 hours since 3-15-04
John Wiegenstein wrote:
>
>At the risk of drawing unwanted attention from the list police for posting
>improper material (Herr Ashcroft and his boys will probably be putting me
>into some database now.....), I am VERY pleased to report that RV-6 N727JW
>has finally taken flight. I began work on this slow-build tipup 6 in early
>1995. Family, law practice, and other hobbies meant that the project
>stretched out longer than many, but I kept at it. N727JW finally received
>its airworthiness certificate on 9/6/2004 from DAR James Devany (Joyce, WA),
>(TIW) in Gig Harbor, WA. The 40 minute flight went smoothly, with no squawks
>except a slightly heavy right wing, and the need for a small amount of right
>rudder trim. Power is a new O-360-A1A with a new Hartzell "blended airfoil"
>C/S prop, both from Van's, so takeoff and climb performance were impressive.
>Panel is "not quite IFR", and empty weight without paint or wheel/gear leg
>fairings ended up right at 1,000 lb. Mike Seager's transition course was
>worth every penny, and helped to make the flight as "routine" as could be
>expected. An absolutely fabulous feeling and experience!
>
>I'll say it again, even though its been said many times before: to all you
>guys (and gals) still building, keep pounding those rivets and pressing on,
>whatever the hardships and temporary setbacks. It WILL be finished some
>day, and when it is and you have taken flight, you will have joined a very
>small, elite group, and will experience a level of personal satisfaction and
>accomplishment that few people know. You will also have learned a
>tremendous amount of information about your aircraft specifically, and
>aircraft construction, certification, and design in general. To me, that
>can only make you (and me) a safer, better educated pilot once the bird is
>ready to leave the nest.
>
>And, to those who have posted advice, comments, etc. on this list and in
>other forums (fora?) over the years, thanks for the good information. The
>'net and broadband have allowed us all to wallow in way more garbage than we
>might like, but it also has nuggets of great information, and this list has
>had many of those over the years for a lurker like me. I cannot imagine
>how our forebears created homebuilts before the internet and before the kits
>that we all enjoy today. My hat is off to them.
>
>Gotta go fly now!
>John H. Wiegenstein
>HELLER WIEGENSTEIN PLLC
>19301 - 8th Ave. NE, Suite A
>Poulsbo, WA 98370
>(360) 394-3500
>(360) 394-3503 FAX
>johnw(at)hellerwiegenstein.com
>www.hellerwiegenstein.com
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Refilling Compass |
In a message dated 9/10/04 9:52:40 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
kboatright1(at)comcast.net writes:
>
> My compass has run low on fluid after 3.5 years of slooooooowly losing fluid
> somewhere. No idea where the leak is, because I've never noticed a drip, a
> damp spot, or anything other than a slowly falling fluid level. Anyway,
> what's involved in re-filling it? How does it come apart? How does it go back
> together? How tight should I torque the fasteners that hold it together? I'd
> appreciate the whole run-down if someone can give it.
>
> Based on advice from the list and other sources, I'm going to refill it with
> low odor mineral spirits.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> KB
>
>
Take it out of the outer case. There is a brass plug that you take out.
Pour in the new fluid. Put the plug back in. Put it back in the case. As my
drill instructor used to say, "Its so simple its pathetic."
Dan H
RV-7A (Flying out to breakfast this morning.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Solid State gyro Dynon D-10 errors |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Todd Bartrim" <haywire(at)telus.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Solid State gyro Dynon D-10 errors
>
>
> >
> >
> > If the Dynon uses "solid state" gyros as part of their stabilization
> > mechanism then I can see the possibility that the problem could be RPM
> > related.
> >
> > Any correlation between engine type such as the larger 360 causing
> > more of
> > a problem than say the 320??
> >
> > Ed
> >
> > Ed Anderson
> > RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> > Matthews, NC
> >
>
> Hi Ed
> I'd be interested and I'm certain that Dynon would as well to know
what
> engines are in the planes that are experiencing these problems. As you & I
> both know, even the smooth rotary has it's own harmonic vibrations,
however
> in almost 40 hours of flying my Dynon I've yet to see any errors (but I'm
> watching closely). I'd like to hear what engine/prop/ignition combinations
> are involved to see if there is a common thread.
> When I first received my Dynon, I brought it to work at a large
mill (had
> to show it off to the other instrument mechanics:-) and when turned on it
> immediately showed a ~30 degree right bank and a ~10 degree down pitch.
The
> error remained steady at all times within the shop at the mill. The shop
is
> solid concrete and feels rock steady, but there was something in there
that
> was affecting the Dynon. At home it performed flawlessly again, so I
brought
> it back to work the next day. Same error again. At that time I began to
> wonder if vibration or quite possibly electromagnetic interference from
all
> the industrial equipment was the cause. After installing it I'd pretty
much
> forgotten about that until now.
> Just another bit of info to consider.....
>
> Todd Bartrim (Love my Dynon)
>
> RV9Endurance
> 13B Turbo Rotary
> C-FSTB
> http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
>
> "The world will always have a place for those that bring hard
> work and determination to the things they do."
>
Hi, Todd,
Since this is a "fairly" new application of the solid state gyros, its
not that surprising that an Unknown Unknown should crop up. Given that
these gizmos generally have a small piece of silicon that vibrates to
establish spatial reference, not too big a stretch to consider that external
vibration could (if of the right frequency and amplitude) cause
interference. Of course, it could be something altogether different that's
the cause, but the indications (I believe) is pointing toward external
vibration (but, would not exclude possibly electronic interference).
Ed
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Fenstermacher" <dfenstermacher(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Solid State gyro Dynon D-10 errors |
Typically "solid state" gyros are made from piezo-electric crystals.
These things are cool. If you hit the crystal (imput a force), they
generate electricity as a function of the force. [Typical applications -
gyros, cigarette lighters, old fashion TV remote controls that didn't need
batteries]
If you put power (hook up electricity) to the crystal, the crystal moves.
[typical applications - auto-focusers on camera lenses, and various other
linear actuators]
I would think that a vibratory gyro would not work very well in a
high-ambient vibration environment.
Maybe the software guys have a work-around. I don't know.
Dave
> [Original Message]
> From: Ed Anderson <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
> To:
> Date: 9/11/2004 9:35:13 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Solid State gyro Dynon D-10 errors
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Todd Bartrim" <haywire(at)telus.net>
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Solid State gyro Dynon D-10 errors
>
>
> >
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > If the Dynon uses "solid state" gyros as part of their stabilization
> > > mechanism then I can see the possibility that the problem could be
RPM
> > > related.
> > >
> > > Any correlation between engine type such as the larger 360 causing
> > > more of
> > > a problem than say the 320??
> > >
> > > Ed
> > >
> > > Ed Anderson
> > > RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> > > Matthews, NC
> > >
> >
> > Hi Ed
> > I'd be interested and I'm certain that Dynon would as well to
know
> what
> > engines are in the planes that are experiencing these problems. As you
& I
> > both know, even the smooth rotary has it's own harmonic vibrations,
> however
> > in almost 40 hours of flying my Dynon I've yet to see any errors (but
I'm
> > watching closely). I'd like to hear what engine/prop/ignition
combinations
> > are involved to see if there is a common thread.
> > When I first received my Dynon, I brought it to work at a large
> mill (had
> > to show it off to the other instrument mechanics:-) and when turned on
it
> > immediately showed a ~30 degree right bank and a ~10 degree down pitch.
> The
> > error remained steady at all times within the shop at the mill. The shop
> is
> > solid concrete and feels rock steady, but there was something in there
> that
> > was affecting the Dynon. At home it performed flawlessly again, so I
> brought
> > it back to work the next day. Same error again. At that time I began to
> > wonder if vibration or quite possibly electromagnetic interference from
> all
> > the industrial equipment was the cause. After installing it I'd pretty
> much
> > forgotten about that until now.
> > Just another bit of info to consider.....
> >
> > Todd Bartrim (Love my Dynon)
> >
> > RV9Endurance
> > 13B Turbo Rotary
> > C-FSTB
> > http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
> >
> > "The world will always have a place for those that bring
hard
> > work and determination to the things they do."
> >
> Hi, Todd,
>
> Since this is a "fairly" new application of the solid state gyros, its
> not that surprising that an Unknown Unknown should crop up. Given that
> these gizmos generally have a small piece of silicon that vibrates to
> establish spatial reference, not too big a stretch to consider that
external
> vibration could (if of the right frequency and amplitude) cause
> interference. Of course, it could be something altogether different that's
> the cause, but the indications (I believe) is pointing toward external
> vibration (but, would not exclude possibly electronic interference).
>
> Ed
>
>
> Ed Anderson
> RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> Matthews
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Refilling Compass |
Ah, yes, putting in the fluid (kerosene, mineral spirits paint thinner, and
varsol are favourite "homebrew" replacements) is easy. Getting rid of the
bubble that sits in the compass window is more difficult and can be
maddeningly frustrating.
Fill something like a coffee can with the fluid, submerge the compass in it
and keep rotating it until the air escapes is the advice I was given.
Eventually worked too.
Jim Oke
Wpg., MB
RV-6A (equipped with a self repaired compass!)
----- Original Message -----
From: <Hopperdhh(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Refilling Compass
>
> In a message dated 9/10/04 9:52:40 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
> kboatright1(at)comcast.net writes:
>
> >
> > My compass has run low on fluid after 3.5 years of slooooooowly losing
fluid
> > somewhere. No idea where the leak is, because I've never noticed a
drip, a
> > damp spot, or anything other than a slowly falling fluid level. Anyway,
> > what's involved in re-filling it? How does it come apart? How does it
go back
> > together? How tight should I torque the fasteners that hold it
together? I'd
> > appreciate the whole run-down if someone can give it.
> >
> > Based on advice from the list and other sources, I'm going to refill it
with
> > low odor mineral spirits.
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> >
> > KB
>
> Take it out of the outer case. There is a brass plug that you take out.
> Pour in the new fluid. Put the plug back in. Put it back in the case.
As my
> drill instructor used to say, "Its so simple its pathetic."
>
> Dan H
> RV-7A (Flying out to breakfast this morning.)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Hansen" <jerry-hansen(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Solid State gyro Dynon D-10 errors |
Not so with MEMs gyros. A very clever technique is responsible for their
excellent resistance to shock and vibration. A highly informative article
on the AD rate gyros is at the link below....
http://www.analog.com/library/analogDialogue/archives/37-03/gyro.html
Note especially the paragraph titled "Immunity to Shock and Vibration".
(Disclaimer - I am associated with an autopilot manufacturer that uses these
devices)
Jerry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Fenstermacher
Subject: Re: RV-List: Solid State gyro Dynon D-10 errors
Typically "solid state" gyros are made from piezo-electric crystals.
These things are cool. If you hit the crystal (imput a force), they
generate electricity as a function of the force. [Typical applications -
gyros, cigarette lighters, old fashion TV remote controls that didn't need
batteries]
If you put power (hook up electricity) to the crystal, the crystal moves.
[typical applications - auto-focusers on camera lenses, and various other
linear actuators]
I would think that a vibratory gyro would not work very well in a
high-ambient vibration environment.
Maybe the software guys have a work-around. I don't know.
Dave
> [Original Message]
> From: Ed Anderson <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
> To:
> Date: 9/11/2004 9:35:13 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Solid State gyro Dynon D-10 errors
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Todd Bartrim" <haywire(at)telus.net>
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Solid State gyro Dynon D-10 errors
>
>
> >
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > If the Dynon uses "solid state" gyros as part of their stabilization
> > > mechanism then I can see the possibility that the problem could be
RPM
> > > related.
> > >
> > > Any correlation between engine type such as the larger 360 causing
> > > more of
> > > a problem than say the 320??
> > >
> > > Ed
> > >
> > > Ed Anderson
> > > RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> > > Matthews, NC
> > >
> >
> > Hi Ed
> > I'd be interested and I'm certain that Dynon would as well to
know
> what
> > engines are in the planes that are experiencing these problems. As you
& I
> > both know, even the smooth rotary has it's own harmonic vibrations,
> however
> > in almost 40 hours of flying my Dynon I've yet to see any errors (but
I'm
> > watching closely). I'd like to hear what engine/prop/ignition
combinations
> > are involved to see if there is a common thread.
> > When I first received my Dynon, I brought it to work at a large
> mill (had
> > to show it off to the other instrument mechanics:-) and when turned on
it
> > immediately showed a ~30 degree right bank and a ~10 degree down pitch.
> The
> > error remained steady at all times within the shop at the mill. The shop
> is
> > solid concrete and feels rock steady, but there was something in there
> that
> > was affecting the Dynon. At home it performed flawlessly again, so I
> brought
> > it back to work the next day. Same error again. At that time I began to
> > wonder if vibration or quite possibly electromagnetic interference from
> all
> > the industrial equipment was the cause. After installing it I'd pretty
> much
> > forgotten about that until now.
> > Just another bit of info to consider.....
> >
> > Todd Bartrim (Love my Dynon)
> >
> > RV9Endurance
> > 13B Turbo Rotary
> > C-FSTB
> > http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
> >
> > "The world will always have a place for those that bring
hard
> > work and determination to the things they do."
> >
> Hi, Todd,
>
> Since this is a "fairly" new application of the solid state gyros, its
> not that surprising that an Unknown Unknown should crop up. Given that
> these gizmos generally have a small piece of silicon that vibrates to
> establish spatial reference, not too big a stretch to consider that
external
> vibration could (if of the right frequency and amplitude) cause
> interference. Of course, it could be something altogether different that's
> the cause, but the indications (I believe) is pointing toward external
> vibration (but, would not exclude possibly electronic interference).
>
> Ed
>
>
> Ed Anderson
> RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> Matthews
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal / Carol Kempthorne <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Refilling Compass |
Close the hangar door.
Post a guard outside to honk the horn if he sees any FAA guys.
Fill the compass.
Don't write anything in the logbook.
Open the door and go flying!
An old pilot told me this is how he maintains his certified
aircraft!! This is a different guy from the one who fixes a slightly bent
crankshaft while still in the engine by bashing it with a sledge hammer.
Alternatively, sell it on ebay on buy a new one. This keeps your insurance
in force in the event of an incident. Why pay big bucks for insurance and
then invalidate it to save a buck or two.?
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
rv-list
| Subject: | Super-2-CCA FatWire |
Hi gang
Anybody on the list using or planning to use the new Super-2-CCA FatWire
from http://periheliondesign.com/fatwires.htm ??
if you are, how are your experiences and why was it worth dubbel the
price of #2 wire??
I like the idea of less resistance as I am building an 8 with the
battery in the back, but, my dutch genes rebel against the price for
little appearant improvement. Yes you can throw calculations all day
long showing a little weight saving (about a pound and a half) and less
resistance, fact is there are plenty of RV8's out there with a rear
battery and #2 wire with no problems.
Gert
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Wiegenstein" <n727jw(at)hellerwiegenstein.com> |
| Subject: | O-360 Exhaust Popping, and CHTs |
Well, now that the first two flights of the RV-6 are under my belt, I'm
moving from "construction" questions to "operational" questions. First, at
low power settings (say, less that 14 in. MP) I am getting occasional
popping from the exhaust on my O-360-A1A. I have the Van's FWF kit and
exhaust. Everything seems tight on the exhaust system. The occasional
popping reminds me a lot of my old GSXR-1100 Suzuki's exhaust when backing
off the throttle. My suspicion is that the low backpressure exhaust system
has something to do with this, and that it is not a problem per se, but I
would appreciate some feedback. The archives had very little on this topic.
Second, what CHTs are people seeing? I have the RMI MicroMonitor with
bayonet probe in #3 cylinder. So far, I'm showing about 340-380F in cruise,
the latter numbers being at, say, a 24/24 power setting and the lower at
perhaps 20 inches/2300. But in climbout I am seeing anywhere from 390-430F
flights have been from sea level up to about 4000MSL, on days with close to
standard conditions. I think my baffles and seals are "pretty good," though
I'm sure there are a few small spots that could be sealed better. Oil temps
have been fine with the Niagara cooler.
Any thoughts are much appreciated - TIA.
John H. Wiegenstein
HELLER WIEGENSTEIN PLLC
19301 - 8th Ave. NE, Suite A
Poulsbo, WA 98370
(360) 394-3500
(360) 394-3503 FAX
johnw(at)hellerwiegenstein.com
www.hellerwiegenstein.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Refilling Compass |
If it is leaking the odds are the back diaphragm has a crack in the rubber
and needs replacing.
Do not mess with the front window. It can be easily cleaned with a q-tip
when you have the back off to change the diaphragm.
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: <Hopperdhh(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Refilling Compass
>
> In a message dated 9/10/04 9:52:40 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
> kboatright1(at)comcast.net writes:
>
> >
> > My compass has run low on fluid after 3.5 years of slooooooowly losing
fluid
> > somewhere. No idea where the leak is, because I've never noticed a
drip, a
> > damp spot, or anything other than a slowly falling fluid level. Anyway,
> > what's involved in re-filling it? How does it come apart? How does it
go back
> > together? How tight should I torque the fasteners that hold it
together? I'd
> > appreciate the whole run-down if someone can give it.
> >
> > Based on advice from the list and other sources, I'm going to refill it
with
> > low odor mineral spirits.
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> >
> > KB
> >
> >
>
> Take it out of the outer case. There is a brass plug that you take out.
> Pour in the new fluid. Put the plug back in. Put it back in the case.
As my
> drill instructor used to say, "Its so simple its pathetic."
>
> Dan H
> RV-7A (Flying out to breakfast this morning.)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ollie Washburn" <ollie-6a(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Refilling Compass |
KB-----My advice is to just send for the repair kit from ACS or some other
supplier and this will give you the correct fluid and ALL the seals.Why not
do it the right way?
Ollie-------Dodging hurricanes in Fl.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Refilling Compass
>
> My compass has run low on fluid after 3.5 years of slooooooowly losing
> fluid somewhere. No idea where the leak is, because I've never noticed a
> drip, a damp spot, or anything other than a slowly falling fluid level.
> Anyway, what's involved in re-filling it? How does it come apart? How
> does it go back together? How tight should I torque the fasteners that
> hold it together? I'd appreciate the whole run-down if someone can give
> it.
>
> Based on advice from the list and other sources, I'm going to refill it
> with low odor mineral spirits.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> KB
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ollie Washburn" <ollie-6a(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: O-360 Exhaust Popping, and CHTs |
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Wiegenstein" <n727jw(at)hellerwiegenstein.com>
Subject: RV-List: O-360 Exhaust Popping, and CHTs
>
>
John----I have about 900 hours on my 6a with 180hp and constant speed and my
#3 cyl can reach 430* in climb and thats climbing at 140 mph. In cruise it
runs about 400* while the rest are 360-380*. Hotter than I like but then Fl.
can be hot in the summer.
Ollie---Central Fl.
> Second, what CHTs are people seeing? I have the RMI MicroMonitor with
> bayonet probe in #3 cylinder. So far, I'm showing about 340-380F in
> cruise,
> the latter numbers being at, say, a 24/24 power setting and the lower at
> perhaps 20 inches/2300. But in climbout I am seeing anywhere from
> 390-430F
> flights have been from sea level up to about 4000MSL, on days with close
> to
> standard conditions. I think my baffles and seals are "pretty good,"
> though
> I'm sure there are a few small spots that could be sealed better. Oil
> temps
> have been fine with the Niagara cooler.
>
> Any thoughts are much appreciated - TIA.
> John H. Wiegenstein
> HELLER WIEGENSTEIN PLLC
> 19301 - 8th Ave. NE, Suite A
> Poulsbo, WA 98370
> (360) 394-3500
> (360) 394-3503 FAX
> johnw(at)hellerwiegenstein.com
> www.hellerwiegenstein.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Refilling Compass |
Cause you don't want to take that front off the compass!
Good luck getting it to seal again, even with a new gasket, even with two
gaskets, Fuel Lube, or Pro-Seal.
Change the rear diaphragm, as it may indeed have a tiny pinhole, and go with
the "plunge in a tin of alcohol and roll around until no more bubbles come
out" method of filling.
There, good for another fifty years.
Unless the earth's magnetic field decides to reverse, of course...
SCott in VAncouver
RV-6, 150 hours
resting on one gear leg.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ollie Washburn" <ollie-6a(at)prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Refilling Compass
>
> KB-----My advice is to just send for the repair kit from ACS or some other
> supplier and this will give you the correct fluid and ALL the seals.Why
> not
> do it the right way?
> Ollie-------Dodging hurricanes in Fl.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Refilling Compass
>
>
>>
>> My compass has run low on fluid after 3.5 years of slooooooowly losing
>> fluid somewhere. No idea where the leak is, because I've never noticed a
>> drip, a damp spot, or anything other than a slowly falling fluid level.
>> Anyway, what's involved in re-filling it? How does it come apart? How
>> does it go back together? How tight should I torque the fasteners that
>> hold it together? I'd appreciate the whole run-down if someone can give
>> it.
>>
>> Based on advice from the list and other sources, I'm going to refill it
>> with low odor mineral spirits.
>>
>> Thanks in advance,
>>
>> KB
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Refilling Compass |
NEVER EVER ANY ALCOHOL!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott(at)telus.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Refilling Compass
>
> Cause you don't want to take that front off the compass!
> Good luck getting it to seal again, even with a new gasket, even with two
> gaskets, Fuel Lube, or Pro-Seal.
> Change the rear diaphragm, as it may indeed have a tiny pinhole, and go
with
> the "plunge in a tin of alcohol and roll around until no more bubbles come
> out" method of filling.
> There, good for another fifty years.
> Unless the earth's magnetic field decides to reverse, of course...
> SCott in VAncouver
> RV-6, 150 hours
> resting on one gear leg.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ollie Washburn" <ollie-6a(at)prodigy.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Refilling Compass
>
>
> >
> > KB-----My advice is to just send for the repair kit from ACS or some
other
> > supplier and this will give you the correct fluid and ALL the seals.Why
> > not
> > do it the right way?
> > Ollie-------Dodging hurricanes in Fl.
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net>
> > To:
> > Subject: RV-List: Refilling Compass
> >
> >
> >>
> >> My compass has run low on fluid after 3.5 years of slooooooowly losing
> >> fluid somewhere. No idea where the leak is, because I've never noticed
a
> >> drip, a damp spot, or anything other than a slowly falling fluid level.
> >> Anyway, what's involved in re-filling it? How does it come apart? How
> >> does it go back together? How tight should I torque the fasteners that
> >> hold it together? I'd appreciate the whole run-down if someone can
give
> >> it.
> >>
> >> Based on advice from the list and other sources, I'm going to refill it
> >> with low odor mineral spirits.
> >>
> >> Thanks in advance,
> >>
> >> KB
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Vans Tachometer Transducer - heads up |
Back in June 2002, Mel Jordan posted a very informational post on this list.
It concerned the tachometer transducer that VANs sell for their electronic
tach.
I followed Mel's experience and when it came time to set my EIS to the
number of pulses per revolutions, I just assumed I should use the same value
Mr. Jordan has found to work.
Well, to make this story short and cut to the chase, I just have these
lessons for anyone who is considering this route:
1. The transducer works really well (so far).
2. Maybe it is a different model transducer, but the important thing is to
check for yourself how many pulses per revolutions YOUR system puts out.
I am not even going to tell you the number I have, so that no one will be
tempted to blindly follow this number like I did with the number Mel has
found to work for him.
Borrow/buy/steal a tachometer you can cross-check with.
Thats all I had to say.
No damage done, just a lesson learned, and thanks MGM for letting me borrow
your optical tach.
Amit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "D. Wayne Stiles" <dwstiles(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Asphault floors |
I only get the digest and am a couple of days behind in reading them so
someone may have mentioned this. but FWIW: In addition to wear and color
problems, asphault can present some serious hazards when solvents are
spilled on it. Some HAZ-MAT training I went through as a local vol. fireman
thuroughly spooked me from putting asphault down for a garage or hanger
floor. If I was forced to have an existing hanger with such a floor I'd
get it sealed and then capped with a coat of concrete.
DWStiles
NIles MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Bob Olds ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Bob Olds
Subject: Vortex generators on RV-4
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/Oldsfolks@aol.com.09.11.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
The day I though would never come, finally did. I flew N130WN for .8 hours
today. Exhilarating, but uneventful. Ooo, ooo, ooo does it feel good!
More details on my website over the coming days. Many thanks to all who
have help over the years....
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)direcpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: E-MAG ELECTRONIC IGNITION |
You must have a constant speed prop since your producing the popping
noise on decent. This is pretty normal and I think your thoughts about
low backpressure and such is right on the money.
CHT's seem normal for a new engine. Wait a few hours and they should
drop. My number 3 runs at 360 in cruise and close to 400 on climbout at
140 mhp IAS.
Gary
Bruno wrote:
>
>Hello All
> I just received an e-mail from Brad Dement from E-MAG
>Electronics who let me know about their systems. I never heard of them and I
>was wondering if anyone has any info on this compagny and products.
>
>Has anyone ever saw them in Oshkosh or S & F , or actually saw or used their
>products.
>
>Theirs product look from the outside a lot like a Lazar System but with a
>few differences.
>
>If you wanna have a look, go to :
>
> <http://www.emagair.com> www.emagair.com
>
>Thanks for any imputs you may have
>
>Bruno Dionne
>
>C-GDBH RV-4
>
>rv4(at)videotron.ca
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | First Flight: N727JW (RV-6 S/N 23961) |
John,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "John Wiegenstein" <n727jw(at)hellerwiegenstein.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: First Flight: N727JW (RV-6 S/N 23961)
>Received by mail server with no name
>
>
>
>I am VERY pleased to report that RV-6 N727JW
>has finally taken flight.
John,>
>Gotta go fly now!
>John H. Wiegenstein
>HELLER WIEGENSTEIN PLLC
>19301 - 8th Ave. NE, Suite A
>Poulsbo, WA 98370
>(360) 394-3500
>(360) 394-3503 FAX
>johnw(at)hellerwiegenstein.com
>www.hellerwiegenstein.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Larry,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Airborne!
>Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2004 20:35:33 -0400
>
>
>The day I though would never come, finally did. I flew N130WN for .8 hours
>today. Exhilarating, but uneventful. Ooo, ooo, ooo does it feel good!
>More details on my website over the coming days. Many thanks to all who
>have help over the years....
>
>-
>Larry Bowen
>Larry(at)BowenAero.com
>http://BowenAero.com
>
>
Check out Election 2004 for up-to-date election news, plus voter tools and
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Congratulations, Larry. A long time coming, but as you know - well, worth
it.!
Ed
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: RV-List: Airborne!
>
> The day I though would never come, finally did. I flew N130WN for .8
hours
> today. Exhilarating, but uneventful. Ooo, ooo, ooo does it feel good!
> More details on my website over the coming days. Many thanks to all who
> have help over the years....
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin |
I've been re-reminded how tenacious duct tape wants to stick to Al and how
paint does not. They should make paint from duct tape formula.
What's the BEST cleaner for removing the glue without damaging the alclad
finish? My wax remover/degreaser & alcohol doesn't phase it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Fenstermacher" <dfenstermacher(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin |
"Goof-Off" loves to eat adhesive. (Avail. at Home Depot/Lowes)
Whether or not it damages the alclad - don't know.
Dave
> [Original Message]
> From: <RV8ter(at)aol.com>
> To: ;
> Date: 9/12/2004 10:12:48 AM
> Subject: RV-List: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin
>
>
> I've been re-reminded how tenacious duct tape wants to stick to Al and
how
> paint does not. They should make paint from duct tape formula.
>
> What's the BEST cleaner for removing the glue without damaging the alclad
> finish? My wax remover/degreaser & alcohol doesn't phase it.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin |
I've used Naptha, aka Coleman's Lanturn Fuel. Or MEK if you want to bring
out the big guns.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: RV8ter(at)aol.com [mailto:RV8ter(at)aol.com]
> Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2004 10:13 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; vansairforce(at)yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RV-List: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin
>
>
> I've been re-reminded how tenacious duct tape wants to stick
> to Al and how paint does not. They should make paint from
> duct tape formula.
>
> What's the BEST cleaner for removing the glue without
> damaging the alclad finish? My wax remover/degreaser &
> alcohol doesn't phase it.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin |
I've used "adhesive removing solvent" (it's name) available in any
automotive paint store. It's safe for even painted surfaces. That said,
for adhesive on alclad I'd use acetone. Low health risk and cheap. Don't
get it near plexi or paint...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin |
RV8ter(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>I've been re-reminded how tenacious duct tape wants to stick to Al and how
>paint does not. They should make paint from duct tape formula.
>
>What's the BEST cleaner for removing the glue without damaging the alclad
>finish? My wax remover/degreaser & alcohol doesn't phase it.
>
The best stuff is kerosene ...... and if you don't have that use mineral
spirits. Put a paper towel over the tape area and keep wet until the
stiff dissolves again. Good luck
Linn
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin |
David Fenstermacher wrote:
>
>"Goof-Off" loves to eat adhesive. (Avail. at Home Depot/Lowes)
>Whether or not it damages the alclad - don't know.
>
>Dave
>
It won't.
Linn
>
>
>
>>[Original Message]
>>From: <RV8ter(at)aol.com>
>>To: ;
>>Date: 9/12/2004 10:12:48 AM
>>Subject: RV-List: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin
>>
>>
>>I've been re-reminded how tenacious duct tape wants to stick to Al and
>>
>>
>how
>
>
>>paint does not. They should make paint from duct tape formula.
>>
>>What's the BEST cleaner for removing the glue without damaging the alclad
>>finish? My wax remover/degreaser & alcohol doesn't phase it.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed O'Quinn" <edoquinn77(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: [VAF Mailing List] getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin |
Get some "Goo Gone" from you local Home Depot etc.
It works great on lots of things....hurts none.
Ed O'Quinn
----- Original Message -----
From: <RV8ter(at)aol.com>
Subject: [VAF Mailing List] getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin
> I've been re-reminded how tenacious duct tape wants to stick to Al and how
> paint does not. They should make paint from duct tape formula.
>
> What's the BEST cleaner for removing the glue without damaging the alclad
> finish? My wax remover/degreaser & alcohol doesn't phase it.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/J8kdrA/y20IAA/yQLSAA/1yWplB/TM
>
> Online help on this group at:
> http://help.yahoo.com/help/groups/
>
>
> <*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/vansairforce/
>
> <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> vansairforce-unsubscribe(at)yahoogroups.com
>
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | QB Interior Paint |
Hello,
What has everyone been using to paint the interior of their QB fuselages?
What prep did you do to the wash primer that was applied at the factory.
Thanks,
Pete
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darwin Barrie" <ktlkrn(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: [VAF Mailing List] getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin |
Goo Gone works great. Also very effective is Ronson lighter fluid. On items
that aren't ever going to be painted or are already painted, WD40 on a soft
cloth will clean well too.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed O'Quinn" <edoquinn77(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: [VAF Mailing List] getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin
> Get some "Goo Gone" from you local Home Depot etc.
> It works great on lots of things....hurts none.
> Ed O'Quinn
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <RV8ter(at)aol.com>
> To: ;
> Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2004 9:12 AM
> Subject: [VAF Mailing List] getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin
>
>
> > I've been re-reminded how tenacious duct tape wants to stick to Al and
how
> > paint does not. They should make paint from duct tape formula.
> >
> > What's the BEST cleaner for removing the glue without damaging the
alclad
> > finish? My wax remover/degreaser & alcohol doesn't phase it.
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Online help on this group at:
> > http://help.yahoo.com/help/groups/
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/J8kdrA/y20IAA/yQLSAA/1yWplB/TM
>
> Online help on this group at:
> http://help.yahoo.com/help/groups/
>
>
> <*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/vansairforce/
>
> <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> vansairforce-unsubscribe(at)yahoogroups.com
>
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: QB Interior Paint |
Perfectly timed question as that's what I'm doing this weekend. Friend with
QB fuse just wiped everything down with painter's, lint free cloth using wax
remover/degreaser the shot it with gray cockpit paint out of Spruce. It's got
that rough textured finish that wears well and is super easy to touch up.
Home Depot sells a brand of gray stone finish or something like that which he
bought a can of because it's an almost exact match and when you spray that stuff
on top of itself you can't tell you had a blemish.
So, I'm repeating his process.
In a message dated 9/12/2004 12:43:28 PM Eastern Standard Time,
pete.howell@gecko-group.com writes:
Hello,
What has everyone been using to paint the interior of their QB fuselages?
What prep did you do to the wash primer that was applied at the factory.
Thanks,
Pete
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Warner" <cwarner(at)twcny.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin |
Try Goo-Gone, available at grocery stores. Or laquer thinner.
----- Original Message -----
From: <RV8ter(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin
>
> I've been re-reminded how tenacious duct tape wants to stick to Al and how
> paint does not. They should make paint from duct tape formula.
>
> What's the BEST cleaner for removing the glue without damaging the alclad
> finish? My wax remover/degreaser & alcohol doesn't phase it.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris W <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin |
linn walters wrote:
>The best stuff is kerosene ...... and if you don't have that . . .
>
>
If you don't have kerosene just go to the FBO and get some Jet fuel,
pretty much the same thing.
--
Chris W
Bring Back the HP 15C
http://hp15c.org
Not getting the gifts you want? The Wish Zone can help.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael D Crowe" <rv8a(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Why such short rivets? |
Eddie,
I work at Alexander Technical Center in Griffin Ga as an instructor for
their RV quick start tail assembly program. I have work there for two years
and have been involved with over 100 tail kits. This is what I have learned.
If you use the Mil-Spec Mil-R-4719A as your guide the rivets listed are too
short. See http://home.flash.net/~gila/rivet_spec/rivet_a.htm
The plans call for AN470AD4-5 to join the hinge brackets HS-411BPP,
HS-411APP and VA-146 hinge bearing. It is too short. I use AN470AD4-6
The plans call for AN470AD4-6 to join all HS-609PP to HS-603PP. I use
AN470AD4-7
To join HS-412PP, HS-609PP AND HS-603PP I use AN470AD4-8
To join HS-413PP to HS-603PP the listed rivet AN470AD4-5 is too long. I use
AN470AD4-4.5
The AN470AD4-4 rivets listed to join HS-603PP to HS-706 are the correct
length
I find the above to be correct for both the RV7 and RV8.
Mike Crowe
According to the plans HS609PP is supposed to be riveted to HS603PP using
AN470AD4-6 rivets. But when I did a test fitting the rivet looked too short.
I got out the avery gauge, and indeed it looks about 1/8" shorter than the
Gauge says it should be.
--Eddie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | QB Interior Paint |
> Hello,
>
> What has everyone been using to paint the interior of their
> QB fuselages? What prep did you do to the wash primer that
> was applied at the factory.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Pete
Pete,
I used Imron. It is quite durable - I've got it on the rudder pedals in
my 6A and no wear or chips on them in 522 hours. I'm sure other paint
is equally durable, check with Valspar's reps.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 522 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
Sept Sport Aviation is listing an RV3 with engine and it sounds as if it is
pretty well along in construction for $10K (want ad section)
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal / Carol Kempthorne <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Refilling Compass |
I guess I should have gotten on this sooner. Anyway, a few suggestions for
those brave experimenters who shun ordinary compass fluid:
Chicken fat will solidify at low temperatures unless you thin it with
ordinary compass fluid.
Jack Daniels is too expensive but some cheap rums might do.
Gasoline is flammable so leaks might be bad. Also, Homeland Security might
ban it. One our California airports once banned storage of any gasoline in
hangars, fearing the fire hazard.
Glacial acetic acid might work and would have the advantage that you will
certainly know the instant it starts to leak. Downside is that eyes may
swell shut before you get to the airport. You could carry dry ice along
and freeze the leaking acid.
Urine from a small redhaired boy who has been drinking lots of pop could be
mixed equal parts by weight with sugar. After a few days in the sun this
too would get your attention if it leaked.
Others have any ideas? We should select the best fluid before the FAA
mandates something that costs $87.07 per fill!
Silly in Paso Robles,
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Refilling Compass |
In a message dated 9/12/2004 2:05:51 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
kempthornes(at)earthlink.net writes:
I guess I should have gotten on this sooner. Anyway, a few suggestions for
those brave experimenters who shun ordinary compass fluid:
========================================
I still think that DOT 5 (silicone) brake fluid would be ideal, but have not
tried it.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 719 hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael D Crowe" <rv8a(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Tools needed to build a RV tail kit |
To introduce myself first I am an A&P mechanic with an IA. I work as a Lead
Mechanic for a major air line. For the past two years I have worked part
time at the Alexander Technical Center at Griffin GA. as an instructor on
their quick start tail assembly program. http://www.buildtofly.com/
I have been involved in over 100 tail kits. I have worked on the 6,7,8,9 and
10 kits; I am also building a RV8A myself.
As each class begins I ask if the student have already purchased their
tools. My hopes are that they have not as we have a good selection of tools
to try from the different manufacturers. The ones that have gotten their
tools before coming often say I wish I had gotten this tool or that tool
instead. In the following I will try to give you a list and suggestions of
tools that I have learned over the past two years. Please keep in mind that
this information is my opinion and mine alone. Others may agree or disagree.
There are two major suppliers of tools for the RV tail kits that I recommend
Avery http://www.averytools.com/ and Cleaveland
http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/home.asp both are RV builders and
are good and honest people to do business with.
I would buy a tool kit from Avery or Cleaveland to begin with. Both will
allow you to add or subtract the tools you want to the kit. I will use both
their 2004 catalogs as a guide.
First if you buy Cleaveland's kit I would buy their complete airframe tool
package p/n Comp-Kit 04.
I would subtract from the kit:
BBRP-48 Back Riveting Plate-It is a nice plate but too small in my opinion
CF-80 C-Frame Riveting Tool-More about C-Frames later but if you get this
one also order their C-From Table Kit CTF-48
ASRD-14 Air Swivel Regulator- I have found the round knob regulator is hard
to regulate
I would add to the kit:
I would upgrade to the 3X Rivet gun- The 2x works good on the 3/32 rivet but
not well on the 1/8 rivet. Get a 3x to work well on the 1/8 and turn down
the pressure a little to do the 3/32 or better yet buy one of each.
DP-8 Drive Pin Punches- This is a nice punch set you could get by with only
the 3/32 and 1/8 (you will be removing a few bad rivets)
LBL-13 BOELUBE Do not drill lead without it.
3MW-77S6 Light deburring wheel- You get a rougher one in the kit you need
both. Go to Home Depot or Lowe's and get a grinder and install these wheels.
3MP-47 Scotch-Brite pads-you will need plenty
DIE509-10 #10 SCREW DIMPLE DIES-You will need these to dimple for the screws
for the lead weights
SNYT-45 4in THIN NOSE YOKE- You are going to need a thin nose and a 4in nose
get them both in one.
SNYF-35 2.5in FLANGE NOSE YOKE- There is places where nothing else is going
to reach.
RSMS-75 SWIVEL FLUSH SET WITH RUBBER GUARD-You must cut some of the rubber
down or you rivets will set too high
CLP-20 CLEKO PLIERS-One is not enough.
CLC-50 1/2in CLEKO CLAMP-You get 4. You need at least 10
CLC-100 1in CLEKO CLAMP-You get 4. You need at least 10
For the RV9 DIECS4-4 120 DEGREE DIES FOR 1/8 POP RIVETS-You use a lot of
CS4-4 on the skin of your elevators they are 120 degrees.
For our RV10 friends RSB-12 12in back rivet set-You will need this to back
rivet the stiffeners on the elevators.
The RV10 will also need BBRV10 SPECIAL BUCKING BAR-You will need this for
the elevators.
I would buy from Avery to complete the kit from Cleaveland
575 hand seamer 3-1/2 jaw-I use this to squeezing the trailing edge of the
trim tabs.
550 3/32 vise grip dimplers- several places on ribs this is needed.
150 AIR TOOL REGULATOR-This one is easier to adjust.
1046 SPEED DEBURRING AND COUNTERSINKING TOOL
23904 4 PC. HOOK AND PICK SET-You will need a pick many times for aligning
skins
For the RV9 42120 SPECIAL 120 DEGREE COUNTERSINK-Used where you use CS4-4
rivets on the elevators.
If you buy an Avery tool kit, I would buy the RV-3,-4-6-7-8-9and -10
builders tool kit.
I would subtract from the kit
1001 22in hand rivet and dimpling tool-it is there c-frame tool a good tool
but see below about a c-frame tool
10765 POLYETHYLENE DIMPLING MALLET-Goes with the c-frame tool. If you get
the c-frame tool get the mallet.
500 FLUTING PLIERS- You need a pair of fluting pliers I like Cleaveland's a
lot better.
1042 EDGE ROLLING TOOL- I can not get this tool to work for me. It could
just be me.
3507 3M RIVETING TAPE-Works well. If you use it take it off after use it is
real hard to get off later. Use Scotch Removable Magic Tape works as well
and much cheaper.
9885 ANGLE DRILL KIT- Nice kit not needed for the tail kit could be used
later.
1054 NBR 8 SCREW COUNTERSINK CUTTER-Not needed for the tail kit.
25500 SWIVEL HEAD POP RIVET TOOL-If you must use a hand pop tool use
Cleaveland's PRS-20 it is much easier to squeeze.
I would add to the kit:
7760 4in NO HOLE YOKE
7755 LONGERON YOKE
811 RIVETING TAPE-Scotch removable magic tape.
1003 BOELUBE Do not drill lead without it.
200 CLECO PLIERS-One is not enough.
1661 Light deburring wheel- You get a rougher one in the kit you need both.
Go to Home Depot or Lowe's and get a grinder and install these wheels.
23904 4 PC. HOOK AND PICK SET-You will need a pick many times for aligning
skins.
For the RV9 42120 SPECIAL 120 DEGREE COUNTERSINK-Used where you use CS4-4
rivets on the elevators.
For the RV10 630 RV10 ELEVATOR BUCKING BAR
I would by from Cleaveland to complete the Avery kit:.
3MP-47 Scotch-Brite pads-you will need plenty
DIE509-10 #10 SCREW DIMPLE DIES-You will need these to dimple for the screws
for the lead weights
EF-60 EDGE FORMER-Needed at seams
HS-30 OFFSET HAND SEAMER-Used many places
FP-200 FLUTING PLIERS-Used to straighten ribs
For the RV9 DIECS4-4 120 DEGREE DIES FOR 1/8 POP RIVETS-You use a lot of
CS4-4 on the skin of your elevators they are 120 degrees.
For our RV10 friends RSB-12 12in back rivet set-You will need this to back
rivet the stiffeners on the elevators.
Tools that would be nice to have:
PNEUMATIC SQUEEZER- In my opinion a must have. Get a 214 style. Make sure to
get an adjustable set holder for it.
PNEUMATIC POP RIVET GUN-Go to harbor freight or such and get one for around
$40.00
LIGHTWEIGHT HOSE KITS-Makes it a lot easier to handle drills and rivet guns
TATCO HAND SQUEEZER WITH 2in YOKE-Makes it a lot easier to dimple all those
ribs
C-FRAME DIMPLER
EXPERIMENTAL AERO http://www.experimentalaero.com/ I brought a DRDT-1
dimplier and installed it at Alexander Technical Center to try it out in
January this year.
Boy was that a mistake. There is no way I am getting it back. It is the
best I have used for dimpling. It gives best dimples; it is consistent,
quiet and a one man operation.
There is no way I am going back to the old c-frame hammer method. Now if I
need to dimple I pack up what I have and drive 32 miles even though I have a
hammer c-
Frame dimplier at home. It is that much better. They now sell the DRDT-2
which has some improvement over the -1.
Mike Crowe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "" <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com> |
All,
I am finsihing up the riveting of the left aileron. I have riveted the top side
and attached the brackets. When I lay the piece flat on a bench (clecoed) to
start on the bottom, I noticed that there is approx. .145" twist in it. The
instructions say to weigh it down while riveting the bottom. I seriously doubt
that will take care of the twist, as I can see that piece just popping back
to shape after the weight is removed. Is there anything I can do to get it back
to shape before riveting the bottom? Is that amount of twist excessive (it
seems to be to me).
Thanks,
Scott
7A Wings
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Stucklen" <wstucklen1(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re:Solid State gyro Dynon D-10 errors |
It would also be interesting to know what you did with the pito &
static ports when
you brought your unit into the shop. The Dynon unit uses these ports for
additional
stabilization (instead of a GPS input).......
I've been flying a Dynon D-10 unit for over 270 Hrs, and have yet to
notice (It's a
backup unit) any problems...
Fred Stucklen
RV-6a N926RV
Hi Ed
I'd be interested and I'm certain that Dynon would as well
to know what
engines are in the planes that are experiencing these problems. As
you & I
both know, even the smooth rotary has it's own harmonic
vibrations, however
in almost 40 hours of flying my Dynon I've yet to see any errors
(but I'm
watching closely). I'd like to hear what engine/prop/ignition
combinations
are involved to see if there is a common thread.
When I first received my Dynon, I brought it to work at a
large mill (had
to show it off to the other instrument mechanics:-) and when
turned on it
immediately showed a ~30 degree right bank and a ~10 degree down
pitch. The
error remained steady at all times within the shop at the mill.
The shop is
solid concrete and feels rock steady, but there was something in
there that
was affecting the Dynon. At home it performed flawlessly again, so
I brought
it back to work the next day. Same error again. At that time I
began to
wonder if vibration or quite possibly electromagnetic interference
from all
the industrial equipment was the cause. After installing it I'd
pretty much
forgotten about that until now.
Just another bit of info to consider.....
Todd Bartrim (Love my Dynon)
RV9Endurance
13B Turbo Rotary
C-FSTB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Van's Air Force 'RV Hotel' list usage |
Just heard from my neighbor that there is an RVer & wife from Dallas
stranded at Bruce Campell Field near Jackson MS. I found out too late to
catch them at the airport & offer assistance/lodging (they had already
left for a motel).
I haven't seen the following mentioned on the RV list lately so maybe
it's time for a reminder & to let new arrivals know about it:
http://www.vansairforce.net/rvtravelpages.htm
It's a list with locations/contact numbers of RVers willing to host
other RV-x travelers and/or assist with problems. Just about every
state, with most major & a lot of minor cities are represented. All of
us offer overnight lodging & many can offer hangar space as well.
Just a reminder that help might be nearby if you need it & new friends a
phone call away.
Charlie
flying -4, -7 wings
Slobovia Outernational Airport
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John McMahon <rv6(at)earthlink.net> |
Those that wish some check out time with Mike Seager in his new RV7
I still have some slots open Sat 18th and 17th at our Annual RV fly in
at lebanon,Tn the 18th (M54) 20 miles east of Nashville...
John McMahon (RV6 near paint)
615-452-8742
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Refilling Compass |
In a message dated 9/12/04 4:05:51 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
kempthornes(at)earthlink.net writes:
> Others have any ideas? We should select the best fluid before the FAA
> mandates something that costs $87.07 per fill!
>
> Silly in Paso Robles,
>
> hal
>
Hi Hal,
I posted this a few weeks ago, but here it is again: Ultra pure lamp oil
from any of the Home Depot type stores. Look near the candles and that kind of
stuff. This should be similar to the high grade of kerosene that the compass
makers use. That's what I fly with, I'm sure the flamers will get me!
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (Flying 2 months now -- 43 hours)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV List Great Plane!! |
| From: | smoothweasel(at)juno.com |
Just thinking back.......Wow!!! Got up Sat. morning and the day
looked like a nice day to fly. A friend had moved from here (east
mississippi ) to N. Carolina and still had a place in a hanger here. He
called earlier in the week and was looking for a ride back to get hes
plane. I went out my back door of the house and a few more steps brought
me to the hanger. I checked over my R.C. every thing looked well. Pushed
it out and climbed on board....what a nice feeling!.....went through the
check list and proceeded to start the O 320. With about 2 bldes passing
the plane geve a shake and the engine came to life. ( to you guys still
building its a sound something like this YOU GIVE ME SOME THROTTLE AND
I'M GONNA TAKE YOU SCREAMIN INTO THE AIR......) I taxi onto our private
grass strip making a few s-turns thinkin how cool it is to have a tail
dragger. With a short run- up cycle the prop and i'm in the air. I cruise
over to Fayette Al. grab some fuel and walk up to a restaurant for a
light breakfast. By this time it is about 7:15 a short walk back to the
plane and i'm off again. Back in the air I climb to 9500ft above the haze
and any small clouds and watch the ground speed go up to 176Kn (had a
tail wind of 13kn) Thinking wow this is the way to travel. As I pass
north of Atlanta the GS slows to about 164Kn the wind had become calm and
stayed that way the rest of the trip. About 2hr35min after takeoff I
start a 500f/m decent and in another 18min Im lookin at a 3500ft runway
just south of Fayettville North Carlina. I drop in and find a guy is
building a -6 on the field chat to a few guys and pick my friend up and
start back. the trip back is uneventful. With the same speeds ( started
about 163kn then went to about 172kn and back to 165kn the wind was in my
favor all day. Just dodging a few clouds that had started to build we
stop in at Pell City,Al for lunch and fuel and from there head into Miss.
Drop my friend off in Abredeen Ms and then go on to the house. Do the
normal fly-by(check the runway approach) then come around,Land, and push
the plane in the hangar it is now 3:45 in the afternoon. MAN it was a
GREAT!!!!! DAY!! all from the back yard.
Yall keep poundin them rivets!!
Weasel Graber
-4 (75hr)
Brooksville MS
Get your name as your email address.
Includes spam protection, 1GB storage, no ads and more
Only $1.99/ month - visit http://www.mysite.com/name today!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Twist |
Scott;
After you have the bottom skin-to-spare row of rivets in, you may well find
that the aileron lays flat and remains flat. Squeezing or driving rivets can
cause a subtle deformation of the parts. Usually this is an undesirable
thing to be avoided, in this case it may work in your favour.
So, my suggestion would be to weight the aileron down, do the riveting and
then see what it looks like. With some luck the twist may simply be gone.
Is 0.145 in of twist too much? Well, that is a matter of opinion.
Considering the rather small area of an aileron compared to a wing panel,
the aerodynamic effect will probably be insignificant at the end of the day.
In other words a tiny twist in the wing will more than over-compensate for
the aileron twist or the aileron twist will not be noticeable compared to
the wing's effect. The other consideration is simple cosmetics - will it
look nice enough at fly-ins? Keep in mind that few people will be looking
that closely at your ailerons - only you will really know its there. If you
press on and the other 99.5 % of your airplane is perfect and the only flaw
is a slight twist in an aileron, then it would be time to go back and build
a new aileron. Til then simply press on.
Jim Oke
RV repeat offender
Wpg.., MB
----- Original Message -----
From: <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com>
Subject: RV-List: Aileron Twist
>
>
> All,
>
> I am finsihing up the riveting of the left aileron. I have riveted the
> top side and attached the brackets. When I lay the piece flat on a bench
> (clecoed) to start on the bottom, I noticed that there is approx. .145"
> twist in it. The instructions say to weigh it down while riveting the
> bottom. I seriously doubt that will take care of the twist, as I can see
> that piece just popping back to shape after the weight is removed. Is
> there anything I can do to get it back to shape before riveting the
> bottom? Is that amount of twist excessive (it seems to be to me).
>
> Thanks,
> Scott
> 7A Wings
>
> Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
> The most personalized portal on the Web!
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Twist |
| From: | "" <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com> |
Thanks Jim. I appreciate the feedback.
--- On Tue 09/14, Jim Oke < wjoke(at)shaw.ca > wrote:
From: Jim Oke [mailto: wjoke(at)shaw.ca]
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 23:09:02 -0500
Subject: Re: RV-List: Aileron Twist
Scott;
After you have the bottom skin-to-spare row of rivets in, you may well find
that the aileron lays flat and remains flat. Squeezing or driving rivets can
cause a subtle deformation of the parts. Usually this is an undesirable
thing to be avoided, in this case it may work in your favour.
So, my suggestion would be to weight the aileron down, do the riveting and
then see what it looks like. With some luck the twist may simply be gone.
Is 0.145 in of twist too much? Well, that is a matter of opinion.
Considering the rather small area of an aileron compared to a wing panel,
the aerodynamic effect will probably be insignificant at the end of the day.
In other words a tiny twist in the wing will more than over-compensate for
the aileron twist or the aileron twist will not be noticeable compared to
the wing's effect. The other consideration is simple cosmetics
- will it
look nice enough at fly-ins? Keep in mind that few people will be looking
that closely at your ailerons - only you will really know its there. If you
press on and the other 99.5 % of your airplane is perfect and the only flaw
is a slight twist in an aileron, then it would be time to go back and build
a new aileron. Til then simply press on.
Jim Oke
RV repeat offender
Wpg.., MB
----- Original Message -----
From: <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com>
Subject: RV-List: Aileron Twist
>
>
> All,
>
> I am finsihing up the riveting of the left aileron. I have riveted the
> top side and attached the brackets. When I lay the piece flat on a bench
> (clecoed) to start on the bottom, I noticed that there is approx. .145"
> twist in it. The instructions say to weigh it down while ri
veting the
> bottom. I seriously doubt that will take care of the twist, as I can see
> that piece just popping back to shape after the weight is removed. Is
> there anything I can do to get it back to shape before riveting the
> bottom? Is that amount of twist excessive (it seems to be to me).
>
> Thanks,
> Scott
> 7A Wings
>
> Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
> The most personalized portal on the Web!
>
>
>
===============================
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | QB Interior Paint |
Pete,
We used SunFire by Serwin Williams (a two part paint) has held up well.
Check the archives for additional postings.
Good Building,
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "Pete Howell" <pete.howell@gecko-group.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: QB Interior Paint
>Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2004 11:42:05 -0500
>
>
>Hello,
>
>What has everyone been using to paint the interior of their QB fuselages?
>What prep did you do to the wash primer that was applied at the factory.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Pete
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Why such short rivets? |
Eddie,
Could be mis-labeled parts. I any event I remember reading in the early 8
plans that the builder should confirm the correct rivet lenght. Good catch.
Good Building,
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "Michael D Crowe" <rv8a(at)bellsouth.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Why such short rivets?
>Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2004 14:01:51 -0400
>
>
>Eddie,
>
> I work at Alexander Technical Center in Griffin Ga as an instructor for
>their RV quick start tail assembly program. I have work there for two years
>and have been involved with over 100 tail kits. This is what I have
>learned.
>If you use the Mil-Spec Mil-R-4719A as your guide the rivets listed are too
>short. See http://home.flash.net/~gila/rivet_spec/rivet_a.htm
>
>The plans call for AN470AD4-5 to join the hinge brackets HS-411BPP,
>HS-411APP and VA-146 hinge bearing. It is too short. I use AN470AD4-6
>
>The plans call for AN470AD4-6 to join all HS-609PP to HS-603PP. I use
>AN470AD4-7
>
>To join HS-412PP, HS-609PP AND HS-603PP I use AN470AD4-8
>
>To join HS-413PP to HS-603PP the listed rivet AN470AD4-5 is too long. I use
>AN470AD4-4.5
>
>The AN470AD4-4 rivets listed to join HS-603PP to HS-706 are the correct
>length
>
>I find the above to be correct for both the RV7 and RV8.
>
>Mike Crowe
>
>
>According to the plans HS609PP is supposed to be riveted to HS603PP using
>AN470AD4-6 rivets. But when I did a test fitting the rivet looked too
>short.
>
>I got out the avery gauge, and indeed it looks about 1/8" shorter than the
>Gauge says it should be.
>
>--Eddie
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg@itmack" <greg(at)itmack.com> |
| Subject: | fuel return line |
Hi all,
I putting a fuel return line back into my tanks and since the proper aviation tubing
is so expensive and hard to get here I was wondering if normal commercial
grade aluminium tubing is satisfactory for the return lines and also the rest
of the fuel system. One thing though the commercial stuff here is metric, but
as far as I can tell only a fraction of a millimetre different. Any opions
and experiences?
Greg RV8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor(at)msn.com> |
John, I just got back from our Van's Homecoming/Seattle trip. I was able to get
a little time with Mike in the "Old Blue" 6A while I was there. I never got "comfortable"
in the plane so, if you have a slot open on Friday the 17th pencil
me in.
Tommy in Ridgetop
----- Original Message -----
From: John McMahon<mailto:rv6(at)earthlink.net>
To: RV LIST
Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2004 8:12 PM
Subject: RV-List: Mike Seager
Those that wish some check out time with Mike Seager in his new RV7
I still have some slots open Sat 18th and 17th at our Annual RV fly in
at lebanon,Tn the 18th (M54) 20 miles east of Nashville...
John McMahon (RV6 near paint)
615-452-8742
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: E-MAG ELECTRONIC IGNITION |
I had really bad popping when throttled back all the way. I found that the
idle mixture was too rich and this has reduced the popping by 50%. This was
on a injected engine.
>
>You must have a constant speed prop since your producing the popping
>noise on decent. This is pretty normal and I think your thoughts about
>low backpressure and such is right on the money.
>
>CHT's seem normal for a new engine. Wait a few hours and they should
>drop. My number 3 runs at 360 in cruise and close to 400 on climbout at
>140 mhp IAS.
>
>Gary
>
>Bruno wrote:
>
> >
> >Hello All
> > I just received an e-mail from Brad Dement from E-MAG
> >Electronics who let me know about their systems. I never heard of them and I
> >was wondering if anyone has any info on this compagny and products.
> >
> >Has anyone ever saw them in Oshkosh or S & F , or actually saw or used their
> >products.
> >
> >Theirs product look from the outside a lot like a Lazar System but with a
> >few differences.
> >
> >If you wanna have a look, go to :
> >
> > <http://www.emagair.com> www.emagair.com
> >
> >Thanks for any imputs you may have
> >
> >Bruno Dionne
> >
> >C-GDBH RV-4
> >
> >rv4(at)videotron.ca
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: fuel return line |
In a message dated 9/13/04 7:07:31 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
greg(at)itmack.com writes:
>
>
> Hi all,
> I putting a fuel return line back into my tanks and since the proper
> aviation tubing is so expensive and hard to get here I was wondering if normal
> commercial grade aluminium tubing is satisfactory for the return lines and also
> the rest of the fuel system. One thing though the commercial stuff here is
> metric, but as far as I can tell only a fraction of a millimetre different.
Any
> opions and experiences?
>
> Greg RV8
>
>
Greg,
I don't think that the soft aluminum tubing is anything special, except that
it is probably seamless. Take a piece that you are going to use and bend it
back and forth a few times and see if, when and how it fails. If possible do
the same with some leftover tubing from Vans. If you are happy with the
results, use it.
Dan Hopper
RV7A (Flying 2 months -- about 43 hours now)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
Scott,
Drill out the pop rivets that close the aileron, put a small shim, say
063, under the corner that causes an opposite twist. Weight the aileron
down on your flat table and re-rivet everything. Run a drill through
the holes if needed.
We have fixed several using this technique. Works great.
Vince Frazier
F-1H Rocket, N540VF
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/page1.html
All,
I am finsihing up the riveting of the left aileron. I have riveted the
top side
and attached the brackets. When I lay the piece flat on a bench
(clecoed) to
start on the bottom, I noticed that there is approx. .145" twist in it.
The
instructions say to weigh it down while riveting the bottom. I
seriously doubt
that will take care of the twist, as I can see that piece just popping
back
to shape after the weight is removed. Is there anything I can do to get
it back
to shape before riveting the bottom? Is that amount of twist excessive
(it
seems to be to me).
Thanks,
Scott
7A Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel return line |
Hey Greg, where are you? If you just want the 1/4" vent line stuff, its
cheap and I have a bunch of extra you can have. How much do you require?
More interesting is the question of why you are putting in a return line.
Are you powering your 8 with something special ? inquiring minds....
Evan
(530)351-1776
www.evansaviationproducts.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg@itmack" <greg(at)itmack.com>
Subject: RV-List: fuel return line
>
> Hi all,
> I putting a fuel return line back into my tanks and since the proper
aviation tubing is so expensive and hard to get here I was wondering if
normal commercial grade aluminium tubing is satisfactory for the return
lines and also the rest of the fuel system. One thing though the commercial
stuff here is metric, but as far as I can tell only a fraction of a
millimetre different. Any opions and experiences?
>
> Greg RV8
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin |
I use coleman lantern fuel. Takes it right off.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | QB Interior Paint |
If you want to use rattle cans I used Sherwin Williams self
etching primer and gray propeller paint. It seems to work pretty well
and cheap too. I used the same on the panel.
Good Luck.
Dick Dial
RV6
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charles
Rowbotham
Subject: RE: RV-List: QB Interior Paint
Pete,
We used SunFire by Serwin Williams (a two part paint) has held up well.
Check the archives for additional postings.
Good Building,
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "Pete Howell" <pete.howell@gecko-group.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: QB Interior Paint
>Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2004 11:42:05 -0500
>
<pete.howell@gecko-group.com>
>
>Hello,
>
>What has everyone been using to paint the interior of their QB
fuselages?
>What prep did you do to the wash primer that was applied at the
factory.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Pete
>
>
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg@itmack" <greg(at)itmack.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel return line |
Thanks for your offer but I've got enough 1/4" vent line. I'm in Australia
and I'm seriously thinking about putting a rotary into my 8. I know
everyone says that fuel return lines aren't needed for Lycomings but they do
seem to be needed for other engines, so I thought I'd at least install the
line into the tank and if I don't use it I can cap it off. If anyone can
explain why some engines need returns to the tanks and others don't I'd be
interested. For instance I was told that continentals need returns to the
tanks while Lycos just join up to the fuel line again before the pump.
As an expert in fuel tanks I wonder if you could give some tips. When I
drilled out the filler cap flange the cap was perfectly centred and after I
riveted it the cap is now off to one side, not enough to affect operation I
think but just enough to annoy me as the proud builder. I took into account
the slight curve of the flange when I mounted it and I got the orientation
the same when I riveted it on. I spoke to another local builder and he had
the same thing happen to him. I still have another tank to build so I would
like to get that one perfect.
Thanks
Greg RV8 wings
>
> Hey Greg, where are you? If you just want the 1/4" vent line stuff, its
> cheap and I have a bunch of extra you can have. How much do you require?
> More interesting is the question of why you are putting in a return line.
> Are you powering your 8 with something special ? inquiring minds....
> Evan
> (530)351-1776
> www.evansaviationproducts.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Greg@itmack" <greg(at)itmack.com>
> To: ;
> Subject: RV-List: fuel return line
>
>
> >
> > Hi all,
> > I putting a fuel return line back into my tanks and since the proper
> aviation tubing is so expensive and hard to get here I was wondering if
> normal commercial grade aluminium tubing is satisfactory for the return
> lines and also the rest of the fuel system. One thing though the
commercial
> stuff here is metric, but as far as I can tell only a fraction of a
> millimetre different. Any opions and experiences?
> >
> > Greg RV8
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: fuel return line |
In a message dated 9/13/04 6:53:18 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
greg(at)itmack.com writes:
> As an expert in fuel tanks I wonder if you could give some tips. When I
> drilled out the filler cap flange the cap was perfectly centred and after I
> riveted it the cap is now off to one side, not enough to affect operation I
> think but just enough to annoy me as the proud builder. I took into account
> the slight curve of the flange when I mounted it and I got the orientation
> the same when I riveted it on. I spoke to another local builder and he had
> the same thing happen to him. I still have another tank to build so I would
> like to get that one perfect.
>
> Thanks
> Greg RV8 wings
>
>
Hi Greg,
Could you have rotated the flange after first drilling it to the tank? 180
degrees would double any error. Just a guess.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (Flying 2 months now)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chuck <chuck515tigger(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: [ Bob Olds ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
Hey Bob,
Your VG's look like my VG's (Larry Vetterman VG's) but yours appear to be mounted
a little further aft than mine. How far aft of the leading edge are your VG's...
and can you submit another photo from a different angle? Thanks,
Chuck
Email List Photo Shares wrote:
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Bob Olds
Lists: RV-List,RV4-List,RV6-List,RV7-List,RV8-List,RV9-List,RV10-List
Subject: Vortex generators on RV-4
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/Oldsfolks@aol.com.09.11.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Martin Hone" <mctrader(at)bigpond.net.au> |
| Subject: | fuel return line |
Hi Greg,
I can sympathise with you regarding the outrageous costs of items that the
Yanks take for granted. Nevertheless, I would be wary about substituting an
unknown al. tubing in something as critical as the fuel system. The best
way might be to you get a roll of 3/8" tubing from Van's and have it added
to someone's crate that is about to be shipped to Oz. There is a constant
stream of stuff being shipped each week.
As far as a return line is concerned, I think you will find that fuel
injected engines often run a return line back to the tank, but not so
carburated engines.
Having said that, people with carb engines can route a return line that is
supposed to remove bubbles between the mechanical fuel pump and the carby
inlet, back to the tank. This is referred to as a vapour return line and
seems to be recommended when using mogas due to its lower Reid Vapour
Pressure, or its propensity to "boil" due to elevated temperatures and lower
pressures that occur due to engine heat on the ground, and when flying at
altitude.
I am no expert, but I put one in my carburated Lycoming-powered RV-6 in case
I used unleaded fuel in the future.
Hope this helps
Martin in Oz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Starter woes -- PM motors |
Fellow listers,
This was a hot topic a few weeks ago, and it has been on my mind since then.
I have a question about PM starters which I will ask after a little
background.
Several years ago my nephew had a Saab 99 which had 2 electric fans. This
car was notorious for cracking cylinder heads. After he gave it to my stepson
and I overhauled the engine, I finally figured out why it had gone through so
many aluminum heads. The 2 fans were on the same 20 amp fuse and each fan
alone was drawing 20 amps! The fans ran fine but they just roared -- running much
faster than they should and drawing more current than they should. I finally
fixed the problem (temporarily) by putting each fan on its own fuse, and my
stepson drove the car for 4 more years before he finally traded it in.
Recently our treadmill motor started running hotter than normal. I now have
to take the cover off the motor compartment in order for the thermal cutoff to
stay on. My guess is that the motor is drawing more current than normal
because the permanent magnets are getting weak.
I am guessing that the same thing happens to the Skytech starters (one of
which is on my plane).
I think what is happening is that the magnets get weak and then the PM motor
draws more current than "normal." The motor then runs faster than "normal" at
the design voltage in order to generate enough counter emf. This would
account for the solenoids failing, instead of the motor. I am an electrical
engineer, but motors are not my specialty.
Here is my question. Is there a way to "recharge" the magnets in the starter
to bring them back up to original strength? What is the mechanism by which
these magnets weaken? There must be some motor or magnet experts reading this
list. Any suggestions on how to extend the life of these PM motors?
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (Flying for about 2 months -- about 43 hours)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Stucklen" <wstucklen1(at)cox.net> |
Does anybody have an electronic copy (.PDF) of an SL-40 installation
manual. I'm trying to help out a friend install a used radio in his
plane, and can't get one from the Garmin site.....
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Cimino" <jcimino(at)echoes.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Starter woes -- PM motors |
I am no expect on electricity, but I teach Automotive Technology and have
played a lot with permanent magnet devices (starters, window motors). What
I have found on cars is that the commutator on the armature gets rough after
a while. What I usually do is turn the commutator and install new brushes,
this has fixed every starter I have tried it on. I have not tried it on a
Sky Tech though, but poor connections will cause high amperage draw.
(brushes to commutator)
Jim
James Cimino
RV-8 SN 80039
100+ Hours
570-842-4057
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
----- Original Message -----
From: <Hopperdhh(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Starter woes -- PM motors
>
> Fellow listers,
>
> This was a hot topic a few weeks ago, and it has been on my mind since
> then.
> I have a question about PM starters which I will ask after a little
> background.
>
> Several years ago my nephew had a Saab 99 which had 2 electric fans. This
> car was notorious for cracking cylinder heads. After he gave it to my
> stepson
> and I overhauled the engine, I finally figured out why it had gone through
> so
> many aluminum heads. The 2 fans were on the same 20 amp fuse and each fan
> alone was drawing 20 amps! The fans ran fine but they just roared --
> running much
> faster than they should and drawing more current than they should. I
> finally
> fixed the problem (temporarily) by putting each fan on its own fuse, and
> my
> stepson drove the car for 4 more years before he finally traded it in.
>
> Recently our treadmill motor started running hotter than normal. I now
> have
> to take the cover off the motor compartment in order for the thermal
> cutoff to
> stay on. My guess is that the motor is drawing more current than normal
> because the permanent magnets are getting weak.
>
> I am guessing that the same thing happens to the Skytech starters (one of
> which is on my plane).
>
> I think what is happening is that the magnets get weak and then the PM
> motor
> draws more current than "normal." The motor then runs faster than
> "normal" at
> the design voltage in order to generate enough counter emf. This would
> account for the solenoids failing, instead of the motor. I am an
> electrical
> engineer, but motors are not my specialty.
>
> Here is my question. Is there a way to "recharge" the magnets in the
> starter
> to bring them back up to original strength? What is the mechanism by
> which
> these magnets weaken? There must be some motor or magnet experts reading
> this
> list. Any suggestions on how to extend the life of these PM motors?
>
> Dan Hopper
> RV-7A (Flying for about 2 months -- about 43 hours)
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: SL-40 manual |
I have all the SL40 manuals (installation, operating, service, all
pdf). I downloaded all of them right after Garmin purchased UPSAT for
just this reason!
I have three installation manuals for different vintages (1997, 1999,
2003). What vintage is the radio and where do I email it?
Please either specify which one you want or that you want all of them
(about 4 MB) and if you want the operating and service manuals as well.
Dick Tasker
Fred Stucklen wrote:
>
>Does anybody have an electronic copy (.PDF) of an SL-40 installation
>manual. I'm trying to help out a friend install a used radio in his
>plane, and can't get one from the Garmin site.....
>
>Fred Stucklen
>RV-6A N926RV
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg@itmack" <greg(at)itmack.com> |
Does changing the diameter of the tubing from the pitot tube affect readings that
instruments give? eg. pitot tube such as Dynon uses 3/16" then I convert that
to 1/4" tubing to run through the wings and then back to whatever size plastic
tubing that the instruments require. Doesn't changing the diameter change
the pressure and thus the reading on the instrument.
Regards
Greg RV8 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
Only if you have lots of flow through the tubing does pressure change
with diameter. Hopefully you do not so the tubing size matters little.
Of course if you use tubing that is too large you will have slow
response since the small pitot or static port holes have to change the
pressure in the large volume of the tubes.
Dick Tasker
Greg@itmack wrote:
>
>Does changing the diameter of the tubing from the pitot tube affect readings that
instruments give? eg. pitot tube such as Dynon uses 3/16" then I convert
that to 1/4" tubing to run through the wings and then back to whatever size plastic
tubing that the instruments require. Doesn't changing the diameter change
the pressure and thus the reading on the instrument.
>
>Regards
>Greg RV8 wings
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Nelson <david.nelson(at)pobox.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel return line |
Hi Greg,
I ran into the same problem on my 1st tank - just enough to notice but not
enough to keep it from working. I made sure to key the assembly so that it
would assemble the same way. I used large vice-grips to keep everything in
place while drilling, too.
Regards,
/\/elson
Austin, TX
RV-7A - left wing/tank
On Mon, 13 Sep 2004 Hopperdhh(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 9/13/04 6:53:18 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
> greg(at)itmack.com writes:
>
> > As an expert in fuel tanks I wonder if you could give some tips. When I
> > drilled out the filler cap flange the cap was perfectly centred and after I
> > riveted it the cap is now off to one side, not enough to affect operation I
> > think but just enough to annoy me as the proud builder. I took into account
> > the slight curve of the flange when I mounted it and I got the orientation
> > the same when I riveted it on. I spoke to another local builder and he had
> > the same thing happen to him. I still have another tank to build so I would
> > like to get that one perfect.
> >
> > Thanks
> > Greg RV8 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Simple answer is NO!
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg@itmack" <greg(at)itmack.com>
Subject: RV-List: pitot lines
>
> Does changing the diameter of the tubing from the pitot tube affect
readings that instruments give? eg. pitot tube such as Dynon uses 3/16"
then I convert that to 1/4" tubing to run through the wings and then back to
whatever size plastic tubing that the instruments require. Doesn't changing
the diameter change the pressure and thus the reading on the instrument.
>
> Regards
> Greg RV8 wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg@itmack" <greg(at)itmack.com> |
Thanks
>
> Simple answer is NO!
>
> Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
> Safety Programs Editor - TC
> EAA Sport Pilot
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Greg@itmack" <greg(at)itmack.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: pitot lines
>
>
> >
> > Does changing the diameter of the tubing from the pitot tube affect
> readings that instruments give? eg. pitot tube such as Dynon uses 3/16"
> then I convert that to 1/4" tubing to run through the wings and then back
to
> whatever size plastic tubing that the instruments require. Doesn't
changing
> the diameter change the pressure and thus the reading on the instrument.
> >
> > Regards
> > Greg RV8 wings
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sims, Doug" <Doug.Sims(at)danahermotion.com> |
| Subject: | QB Interior Paint |
I used Cardinal rattle cans that are the same color as Vans powder coat on
the Panel. Rustoleum battleship grey on the interior. Looks good and aheres
well to S&H primer.
-----Original Message-----
From: J. R. Dial [mailto:jrdial@hal-pc.org]
Subject: RE: RV-List: QB Interior Paint
If you want to use rattle cans I used Sherwin Williams self
etching primer and gray propeller paint. It seems to work pretty well
and cheap too. I used the same on the panel.
Good Luck.
Dick Dial
RV6
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charles
Rowbotham
Subject: RE: RV-List: QB Interior Paint
Pete,
We used SunFire by Serwin Williams (a two part paint) has held up well.
Check the archives for additional postings.
Good Building,
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "Pete Howell" <pete.howell@gecko-group.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: QB Interior Paint
>Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2004 11:42:05 -0500
>
<pete.howell@gecko-group.com>
>
>Hello,
>
>What has everyone been using to paint the interior of their QB
fuselages?
>What prep did you do to the wash primer that was applied at the
factory.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Pete
>
>
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | to polyfuse.... or not |
Wiring chores are not exactly my strong suit. So here goes. It is recommended
that the comm side of a Garmin 430 go through a 10 amp breaker or fuse. I have
an EXP-2V installed and the highest rated "polyfuse" on the avionics bus is
7 amps. According to Control Vision maker of the EXP-2V, " a 9 amp polyfuse
circuit is roughly comparable to a 14 amp fuse or breaker. The above fuse sizes
are a good match for most for most sport aircraft, your project will probably
work well with this configuration."
Sooooo.....marketing literature aside, is it acceptable to wire the comm through
the 7 amp polyfuse on the EXP-2V? Comments please, especially those with real
time experience with such a setup.
Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com> |
vansairforce(at)yahoogroups.com
| Subject: | VAL AVionics INS422 |
Has anyboby had any experience with the INS 422 Nav? It has VOR/LOC, Glige
slope and Marker beacons all in aone 3"unit. I am looking for a low cost way
to go IFR. Any other suggestions?
Thanks
Al Grajek
RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel return line |
I do happen to have a good tip for keeping the fuel cap centered. I learned
this one from Don London who built the tanks for many years before me. What
he taught me to do is to cover the fuel tank opening on the outside of the
tank skin with clear packaging tape. Then you take the tank flange with the
cap locked into it and stick the whole works to the tape from the inside of
the tank. The cap will stick to the tape and give you a perfect reference
line between it and the skin. If its not centered just pull it off and try
again. When satisified, drill one hole and cleco...then do one on the other
side of the flange etc....You will have to hold tight to the cap and flange
so you dont just shove it off with your drill. This is an excellent time to
have some band aids handy because there is a better than average chance of
drilling your hand...just be careful :) It is best to do this with the tank
completely unassembled. I just stand the tank skin up on its inboard end and
stand in front of it when I drill. Make sure you get the contour on the
flange pointing the right direction and mark it with a sharpie so you can
get it back in the same orientation when you rivet. Hope this helps, it
works well for me.
Cheers...Evan
www.evansaviationproducts.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg@itmack" <greg(at)itmack.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: fuel return line
>
> Thanks for your offer but I've got enough 1/4" vent line. I'm in
Australia
> and I'm seriously thinking about putting a rotary into my 8. I know
> everyone says that fuel return lines aren't needed for Lycomings but they
do
> seem to be needed for other engines, so I thought I'd at least install the
> line into the tank and if I don't use it I can cap it off. If anyone can
> explain why some engines need returns to the tanks and others don't I'd be
> interested. For instance I was told that continentals need returns to the
> tanks while Lycos just join up to the fuel line again before the pump.
>
> As an expert in fuel tanks I wonder if you could give some tips. When I
> drilled out the filler cap flange the cap was perfectly centred and after
I
> riveted it the cap is now off to one side, not enough to affect operation
I
> think but just enough to annoy me as the proud builder. I took into
account
> the slight curve of the flange when I mounted it and I got the orientation
> the same when I riveted it on. I spoke to another local builder and he
had
> the same thing happen to him. I still have another tank to build so I
would
> like to get that one perfect.
>
> Thanks
> Greg RV8 wings
>
>
>
> >
> > Hey Greg, where are you? If you just want the 1/4" vent line stuff, its
> > cheap and I have a bunch of extra you can have. How much do you require?
> > More interesting is the question of why you are putting in a return
line.
> > Are you powering your 8 with something special ? inquiring minds....
> > Evan
> > (530)351-1776
> > www.evansaviationproducts.com
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Greg@itmack" <greg(at)itmack.com>
> > To: ;
> > Subject: RV-List: fuel return line
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Hi all,
> > > I putting a fuel return line back into my tanks and since the proper
> > aviation tubing is so expensive and hard to get here I was wondering if
> > normal commercial grade aluminium tubing is satisfactory for the return
> > lines and also the rest of the fuel system. One thing though the
> commercial
> > stuff here is metric, but as far as I can tell only a fraction of a
> > millimetre different. Any opions and experiences?
> > >
> > > Greg RV8
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry(at)mc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel return line |
Hey Martin ...
What type of valve did you use in your return line?
Thanks ...
Jerry Grimmonpre RV7A QB
> I am no expert, but I put one in my carburated Lycoming-powered RV-6 in
case
> I used unleaded fuel in the future.
>
> Hope this helps
>
> Martin in Oz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tamccarthy <tamccarthy(at)zoomtown.com> |
HERE IS A RESPONSE ON HR 5035 FROM MY CONGRESSMAN:
Introduced by Rep. Anthony Weiner (D-NY), H.R. 5035
would require the Department of Homeland Security to promulgate
and enforce rules to ensure private aircraft companies provide the
same passenger and property screening as is required of the major
air carriers. H.R. 5035 has been referred to the House
Transportation and Infrastructure Committee for consideration.
However, there is little support for the bill, and I do not anticipate
action being taken on it.
tamccarthy
e-mail: tamccarthy(at)zoomtown.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | QB Interior Paint |
www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Click on "Paint"
Paul Besing
Quoting "Sims, Doug" :
>
> I used Cardinal rattle cans that are the same color as Vans powder coat on
> the Panel. Rustoleum battleship grey on the interior. Looks good and aheres
> well to S&H primer.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: J. R. Dial [mailto:jrdial@hal-pc.org]
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: QB Interior Paint
>
>
> If you want to use rattle cans I used Sherwin Williams self
> etching primer and gray propeller paint. It seems to work pretty well
> and cheap too. I used the same on the panel.
> Good Luck.
> Dick Dial
> RV6
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charles
> Rowbotham
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: QB Interior Paint
>
>
>
> Pete,
>
> We used SunFire by Serwin Williams (a two part paint) has held up well.
> Check the archives for additional postings.
>
> Good Building,
>
> Chuck Rowbotham
> RV-8A
>
>
> >From: "Pete Howell" <pete.howell@gecko-group.com>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To:
> >Subject: RV-List: QB Interior Paint
> >Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2004 11:42:05 -0500
> >
> <pete.howell@gecko-group.com>
> >
> >Hello,
> >
> >What has everyone been using to paint the interior of their QB
> fuselages?
> >What prep did you do to the wash primer that was applied at the
> factory.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >Pete
> >
> >
>
>
>
> =
> =
> =
> =
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: to polyfuse.... or not |
> According to Control Vision maker of the EXP-2V, " a 9 amp polyfuse circuit
is roughly comparable to a 14 amp fuse or breaker.
>
I'd sure like to see the math on this one. After 45 years in electronics
I thought that "9 amps" was "9 amps" not 14 amps. (Political correctness
perhaps?) Could someone please enlighten me? 8>)
Dave Bristol RV6 So Cal
EAA Technical Counselor
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RE: [SoCAL-RVlist] Reno news, For those interested. |
I'll be at Reno Sat & Sun.
Are there any activities planned for the RV builders/owners?
ERic--
RV8 wings
(828) 777-7976
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
| Subject: | to polyfuse.... or not |
We had an SL-40 (COM) and now have an SL-30 (NAV/COM) connected to the NAV1
"port" of an EXP-BUS.
In almost 2 years and 370+ hours, we have had no problems.
I **think** it is listed as having an 8 watt amp with the 430 having a 10
watt amp. The 430A is listed as having a 16 watt amp. Of couse this does not
factor in the antenna loss etc and therefore says little about the ACTUAL
current draw. That you will have to find in the more detailed specs.
Again, our SL30 works ... your mileage may vary.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rick Galati
> Sent: Tuesday, September 14, 2004 9:16 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: to polyfuse.... or not
>
>
> Wiring chores are not exactly my strong suit. So here goes. It
> is recommended that the comm side of a Garmin 430 go through a 10
> amp breaker or fuse. I have an EXP-2V installed and the highest
> rated "polyfuse" on the avionics bus is 7 amps. According to
> Control Vision maker of the EXP-2V, " a 9 amp polyfuse circuit
> is roughly comparable to a 14 amp fuse or breaker. The above fuse
> sizes are a good match for most for most sport aircraft, your
> project will probably work well with this configuration."
>
> Sooooo.....marketing literature aside, is it acceptable to wire
> the comm through the 7 amp polyfuse on the EXP-2V? Comments
> please, especially those with real time experience with such a setup.
>
> Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal / Carol Kempthorne <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: to polyfuse.... or not |
Dave, these might be BUSH amps, where some of them never even show up. ;-)
Another reason to avoid this system maybe as you believe you have
protection for a wire capable of handling 10 amps. But the polyfuse is not
going to pop at 9 amps but rather allow damage to the wire by admitting 14
amps.
>I thought that "9 amps" was "9 amps" not 14 amps. (Political correctness
>perhaps?) Could someone please enlighten me? 8>)
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Martin Hone" <mctrader(at)bigpond.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re : fuel return line |
Hi Jerry,
I'll explain in a little more detail. I ran my engine fuel supply line from
the selector valve to a wing root-mounted gascolator, then Facet boost pump,
also in the wing root then to a T fitting on the firewall. One side goes to
the engine-driven pump and the other side goes to the primer solenoid valve.
( Hit the boost pump button, then the primer switch - instant start) On the
engine-driven pump outlet fitting, I have a smaller piggy-back fitting with
a restrictor that routes back to the left hand tank. This is supposed to
take the bubbles away before they get to the carb. A small ball valve allow
me to turn off the return line.
Having installed this sytem, I have had no reason to use it for its intended
purpose - that is, eliminating vapour lock. Even in 40 degree C temps.
May well be different if I was using mogas.
Hope this helps
Martin in Oz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: to polyfuse.... or not |
Maybe they are Kerry amps and it depends which day you use them!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hal / Carol Kempthorne" <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: to polyfuse.... or not
>
> Dave, these might be BUSH amps, where some of them never even show up.
;-)
>
> Another reason to avoid this system maybe as you believe you have
> protection for a wire capable of handling 10 amps. But the polyfuse is
not
> going to pop at 9 amps but rather allow damage to the wire by admitting 14
> amps.
>
> >I thought that "9 amps" was "9 amps" not 14 amps. (Political correctness
> >perhaps?) Could someone please enlighten me? 8>)
>
> K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
> RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
> PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FIRST FLIGHT - WHELAN SUPER 8 |
September 14th: The long awaited first flight of the Whelan Super 8 took
place at 13:15 in Bethlehem, CT. The aircraft performed flawlessly. Too bad we
won't make Reno this year. Many thanks to all who helped make this moment
possible, especially, Bill Benedict whose great friendship and eternal faith in
this
project will never be forgotten. Special thanks also go out to Dan Decker,
the best rivet bucker in the business. Better mention the wife (PJ) too for her
infinite patience.
Aircraft Background: IO540 S1AD, 300+++ Horsepower, Air Flow Performance
Injection, Light Speed Ignition, Carbon Fiber Cowls and many more mods than we
don't have time to disclose. Mark F. "We can't wait."
Regards,
Tom
Tom Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
President EAA Chapter 1097
wfact01(at)aol.com
249 Hard Hill Road North
PO Box 426
Bethlehem, CT 06751
Tel: 203-266-5300
Fax: 202-266-5140
EAA Technical/Flight Advisor
RV-8 540 LYC (Just Flew 9/14, Look Out!)
S-51 Mustang Turbine (Under Construction)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: SL-40, et. al. manuals |
I have had several requests for these manuals. I have no problem
emailing them, but PLEASE tell me as specifically as you can what you
want. I have all (installation, operation and in some cases
maintenance) of the SL15, SL30, SL40 and SL70/70R manuals that were on
the UPSAT web site.
They are all at least 500kB and many are over 1.5MB. Lots of email
accounts have a limit on attachment size and total email storage. CHECK
your situation first and let me know what you can handle.
I have broadband so I don't have a problem sending these, but to make my
life easier, please tell me what you want and how many MB you can handle
per message and per day.
Dick Tasker
Richard E. Tasker wrote:
>
>I have all the SL40 manuals (installation, operating, service, all
>pdf). I downloaded all of them right after Garmin purchased UPSAT for
>just this reason!
>
>I have three installation manuals for different vintages (1997, 1999,
>2003). What vintage is the radio and where do I email it?
>
>Please either specify which one you want or that you want all of them
>(about 4 MB) and if you want the operating and service manuals as well.
>
>Dick Tasker
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
| Subject: | to polyfuse.... or not |
Dave,
As I recall (those who know better, please give a better answer but don't
jump on me if I am wrong or recall incorrectly) ...
These Polyfuses "switch" to "off" based in part on a temp rise. This takes
some finite amount of time so it does not *immediately* switch at exactly "9
amps". They may very well run at 11 amps, I am not sure. BUT you can check
it by slowly increasing the amperage and see where it switched if that is a
major concern. (I suspect there is some small variability is regular fuse
but it is not enough to be of any concern) If some current significantly
greater was shoved down the wire though, I believe the polyfuse WOULD switch
quickly before you burned up the wire.
All of the theory aside, 9 amps or 14 amps or 11 amps for that matter, ours
has worked without problem. A short will make it switch *right now* and the
radio has not caused it to switch prematurely. Nor have any of the other
items.
James
RV6 with EXP-BUS (polyfuses)
RV6A with Nuckolls "Z-14"
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dave Bristol
> Sent: Tuesday, September 14, 2004 4:20 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: to polyfuse.... or not
>
>
> > According to Control Vision maker of the EXP-2V, " a 9 amp
> polyfuse circuit is roughly comparable to a 14 amp fuse or breaker.
> >
> I'd sure like to see the math on this one. After 45 years in electronics
> I thought that "9 amps" was "9 amps" not 14 amps. (Political correctness
> perhaps?) Could someone please enlighten me? 8>)
>
> Dave Bristol RV6 So Cal
> EAA Technical Counselor
>
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DonEavesRV6" <DonEavesRV6(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
| Subject: | King KN53 Coax wiring - J531, J533 Question |
King KN53 Coax wiring - J531, J533 Question:
I'm installing a King KN53 Nav in my flying RV6 and I need to know which coax connectors
(J531 and J533) is Glide Slop and which Localizer?
Thanks in advance -
Don Eaves RV6 Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: to polyfuse.... or not |
In a message dated 9/14/2004 5:13:38 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
cgalley(at)qcbc.org writes:
Maybe they are Kerry amps and it depends which day you use them!
========================================
Or Bush Amps that just decided to take a year off without leave!
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 719 hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Re : fuel return line |
My RV-6A (Scooter) has no gascolator and has no return line. I use mogas
most of the time. I'll add 100LL about once per year, or when the need
arises such as when I'm going to be doing a quick turnaround activity like
taking up Young Eagles. Then, I add about five gallons of 100LL per side.
Vapor lock has not been a show stopper. Of course, my having used mogas in
my airplanes since 1986 gave me a pretty good notion that it would work in
the RV.
My fuel line goes from the tank to the fuel selector, on to the round Facet
pump on the engine side of the firewall, a T for the primer, on to the
mechanical pump, and on to the carb. Nothing special. I kept it simple. I
like to think that's what Van had in mind. :-) My new RV will have the
same setup. I don't see any need to change what works.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Scooter - over 300 hours)
RV-7A #70317 (Building wings)
EAA Tech Counselor
> I'll explain in a little more detail. I ran my engine fuel supply line
from
> the selector valve to a wing root-mounted gascolator, then Facet boost
pump,
> also in the wing root then to a T fitting on the firewall. One side goes
to
> the engine-driven pump and the other side goes to the primer solenoid
valve.
> ( Hit the boost pump button, then the primer switch - instant start) On
the
> engine-driven pump outlet fitting, I have a smaller piggy-back fitting
with
> a restrictor that routes back to the left hand tank. This is supposed to
> take the bubbles away before they get to the carb. A small ball valve
allow
> me to turn off the return line.
>
> Having installed this sytem, I have had no reason to use it for its
intended
> purpose - that is, eliminating vapour lock. Even in 40 degree C temps.
> May well be different if I was using mogas.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich(at)dcscorp.com> |
I am about to order my RV-8A emphanage kit. Does anyone have an opinion
on the type and brand of air compressor that is best for RV
construction? I attended the EAA RV Builder's Course last weekend in
Corona where the general consensus was to avoid the oilless models
because of noise. Went to the local Sears last night and the 30 gallon
model I almost bought ($299 on sale) turned out to be oilless - so I
deferred.
Paul Valovich
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Brinlee" <abfbrinlee(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Air Compressors |
Paul,
I am about to buy a compressor for my project. If you search Campbell
Hausfeld rebuilt on the net you will find a site that you can buy
reconditioned like new compressors. Free ship and no tax. A 20 gallon
direct drive will cost you 200.00 and you can buy a 26 gallon direct drive
for 250.00. They have a 60 gallon on sale for 399.00. I think a 26 gallon
direct drive will work fine for most applications. Good luck
Doug Brinlee 7A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich(at)dcscorp.com>
Subject: RV-List: Air Compressors
>
> I am about to order my RV-8A emphanage kit. Does anyone have an opinion
> on the type and brand of air compressor that is best for RV
> construction? I attended the EAA RV Builder's Course last weekend in
> Corona where the general consensus was to avoid the oilless models
> because of noise. Went to the local Sears last night and the 30 gallon
> model I almost bought ($299 on sale) turned out to be oilless - so I
> deferred.
>
> Paul Valovich
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DonEavesRV6" <DonEavesRV6(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Air Compressors |
I agree with avoiding an oil-less unit - Noise! and it will not last as
long - After my oil-less gave up, I bought a upright 230 V 50 gal unit from
Sam's Club and it has lasted 6+ years with old forgetful leaving it on @ the
hangar for a few weeks at a time. Whatever brand Sam's, Costco or ? has
should do. A Name Brand will cost you more and most are build by 1 or 2
different co's anyway.
Don Eaves RV6 Flying 250+- hrs.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich(at)dcscorp.com>
Subject: RV-List: Air Compressors
>
> I am about to order my RV-8A emphanage kit. Does anyone have an opinion
> on the type and brand of air compressor that is best for RV
> construction? I attended the EAA RV Builder's Course last weekend in
> Corona where the general consensus was to avoid the oilless models
> because of noise. Went to the local Sears last night and the 30 gallon
> model I almost bought ($299 on sale) turned out to be oilless - so I
> deferred.
>
> Paul Valovich
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Ford" <jackoford(at)theofficenet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Re : fuel return line |
Jim,
Not too many years ago, my friend Johnathan Crawford was flying a Beech
(Whatever the cheap retractable was) when the electric pump failed and some
of its components went into the mechanical pump and killed it.
He dead sticked onto Brand Boulevard in Glendale, CA during rush hour.
I think I'd prefer my pumps in parallel, rather than series.
FWIW
Jack Ford
----- Original Message -----
From: <sears(at)searnet.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re : fuel return line
>
> My RV-6A (Scooter) has no gascolator and has no return line. I use mogas
> most of the time. I'll add 100LL about once per year, or when the need
> arises such as when I'm going to be doing a quick turnaround activity like
> taking up Young Eagles. Then, I add about five gallons of 100LL per side.
> Vapor lock has not been a show stopper. Of course, my having used mogas
in
> my airplanes since 1986 gave me a pretty good notion that it would work in
> the RV.
>
> My fuel line goes from the tank to the fuel selector, on to the round
Facet
> pump on the engine side of the firewall, a T for the primer, on to the
> mechanical pump, and on to the carb. Nothing special. I kept it simple.
I
> like to think that's what Van had in mind. :-) My new RV will have the
> same setup. I don't see any need to change what works.
>
> Jim Sears in KY
> RV-6A N198JS (Scooter - over 300 hours)
> RV-7A #70317 (Building wings)
> EAA Tech Counselor
>
> > I'll explain in a little more detail. I ran my engine fuel supply line
> from
> > the selector valve to a wing root-mounted gascolator, then Facet boost
> pump,
> > also in the wing root then to a T fitting on the firewall. One side goes
> to
> > the engine-driven pump and the other side goes to the primer solenoid
> valve.
> > ( Hit the boost pump button, then the primer switch - instant start) On
> the
> > engine-driven pump outlet fitting, I have a smaller piggy-back fitting
> with
> > a restrictor that routes back to the left hand tank. This is supposed to
> > take the bubbles away before they get to the carb. A small ball valve
> allow
> > me to turn off the return line.
> >
> > Having installed this sytem, I have had no reason to use it for its
> intended
> > purpose - that is, eliminating vapour lock. Even in 40 degree C temps.
> > May well be different if I was using mogas.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Brinlee" <abfbrinlee(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Air Compressors |
Correction to previous post on air compressors. The price I listed is for
belt drive units. Not the noisy direct drive units...sorry for the mistake.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Brinlee" <abfbrinlee(at)att.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Compressors
>
> Paul,
> I am about to buy a compressor for my project. If you search Campbell
> Hausfeld rebuilt on the net you will find a site that you can buy
> reconditioned like new compressors. Free ship and no tax. A 20 gallon
> direct drive will cost you 200.00 and you can buy a 26 gallon direct drive
> for 250.00. They have a 60 gallon on sale for 399.00. I think a 26
gallon
> direct drive will work fine for most applications. Good luck
> Doug Brinlee 7A
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich(at)dcscorp.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Air Compressors
>
>
> >
> > I am about to order my RV-8A emphanage kit. Does anyone have an opinion
> > on the type and brand of air compressor that is best for RV
> > construction? I attended the EAA RV Builder's Course last weekend in
> > Corona where the general consensus was to avoid the oilless models
> > because of noise. Went to the local Sears last night and the 30 gallon
> > model I almost bought ($299 on sale) turned out to be oilless - so I
> > deferred.
> >
> > Paul Valovich
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Neal E Capt AU/PC <Neal.George(at)maxwell.af.mil> |
> an opinion on the type and brand of air compressor <
I have an ancient American Champion that works very well.
At 1-hp, it's considerably smaller than I would like, but I'm in cramped
quarters, it's paid for, and it will do until I start sanding.
Neal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | C P <yankeerv10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | WTB RV -6/6A or-7/7A |
Hi,
A friend of mine is having bad luck finding an RV for sale. An
ex-military pilot, he likes the acrobatic feel with side-by-side
seating of the -6 and -7 models. He doesn't care which end the
third wheel is attached. He prefers IFR equipped. Please send me
particulars and contact info!
cheers,
Chuck Packard
YankeeRV10(at)yahoo.com
_______________________________
Declare Yourself - Register online to vote today!
http://vote.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dale Mitchell <dfm4290(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Air Compressors |
Get at least 5 HP and minium of 30 gallon and dont use
an oilless.
When cutting the canopy you will need the capicity to
run a air cuttoff tool.
IMHO.
Dale Mitchell RV8A MN wing
--- "Valovich, Paul" wrote:
>
>
> I am about to order my RV-8A emphanage kit. Does
> anyone have an opinion
> on the type and brand of air compressor that is best
> for RV
> construction? I attended the EAA RV Builder's Course
> last weekend in
> Corona where the general consensus was to avoid the
> oilless models
> because of noise. Went to the local Sears last night
> and the 30 gallon
> model I almost bought ($299 on sale) turned out to
> be oilless - so I
> deferred.
>
> Paul Valovich
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
_______________________________
Declare Yourself - Register online to vote today!
http://vote.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Good" <chrisjgood(at)lycos.com> |
| Subject: | High fuel pressure |
Listers,
My EIS-4000 has started complaining about high fuel pressure recently. This is
on an O-360-A1A with a carb & the standard low pressure engine driven fuel pump.
In normal cruise, I get a fuel pressure reading somewhere between 2 & 5 psi,
which is fine. The problem occurs intermittently when taxiing, & recently
in the air when throttling back for a descent. The pressure climbs to 10-12
psi.
Looking back a couple of years at my engine monitor logs, the pressure never used
to exceed 6-7 psi. All the above readings are without the electric boost pump.
In looking at the archives & other internet sources I found two suggestions:
1. The VDO pressure sensor is only good for 2-300 hrs. But this doesn't seem
like a sensor problem as my cruise readings are normal.
2. The fuel pump pressure regulator is vented to the crankcase & high fuel pressure
can be a symptom of breather blockage. This seems possible as I have a
home-made oil separator on the breather. Maybe this is blocked & the engine is
breathing through the whistle slot! I plan to check this in the next couple
of days.
Has anyone experienced this? Any other suggestions?
Regards,
Chris Good,
West Bend, WI
RV-6A, 775 hrs
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob J <rocketbob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FIRST FLIGHT - WHELAN SUPER 8 |
Tom, what does it weigh?
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying, F1 qb under const.
>
> September 14th: The long awaited first flight of the Whelan Super 8 took
> place at 13:15 in Bethlehem, CT. The aircraft performed flawlessly. Too bad
we
> won't make Reno this year. Many thanks to all who helped make this moment
> possible, especially, Bill Benedict whose great friendship and eternal faith
in this
> project will never be forgotten. Special thanks also go out to Dan Decker,
> the best rivet bucker in the business. Better mention the wife (PJ) too for her
> infinite patience.
>
> Aircraft Background: IO540 S1AD, 300+++ Horsepower, Air Flow Performance
> Injection, Light Speed Ignition, Carbon Fiber Cowls and many more mods than we
> don't have time to disclose. Mark F. "We can't wait."
>
> Regards,
> Tom
>
> Tom Whelan
> Whelan Farms Airport
> President EAA Chapter 1097
> wfact01(at)aol.com
> 249 Hard Hill Road North
> PO Box 426
> Bethlehem, CT 06751
> Tel: 203-266-5300
> Fax: 202-266-5140
> EAA Technical/Flight Advisor
> RV-8 540 LYC (Just Flew 9/14, Look Out!)
> S-51 Mustang Turbine (Under Construction)
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "steve zicree" <szicree(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Air Compressors |
Certain tools use a ton of air, but are real nice to have. For example, hand
held disc sanders. I originally had a small oil-free type and was constantly
running short on air. I traded up to a bigger conventional and still had
troubles. The problem went away when I bought a conventional type, 220 volt
model. The 220 volt motors will last a lot longer and produce way more air.
I think mine puts out about 6 horsepower, which is plenty for all spraying
and sanding. Smaller ones will work fine for riveting but will come up short
on high consumption tools. Mine came from Home Depot.
Steve Zicree
Finishing kit, RV4
----- Original Message -----
From: "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich(at)dcscorp.com>
Subject: RV-List: Air Compressors
>
> I am about to order my RV-8A emphanage kit. Does anyone have an opinion
> on the type and brand of air compressor that is best for RV
> construction? I attended the EAA RV Builder's Course last weekend in
> Corona where the general consensus was to avoid the oilless models
> because of noise. Went to the local Sears last night and the 30 gallon
> model I almost bought ($299 on sale) turned out to be oilless - so I
> deferred.
>
> Paul Valovich
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sims, Doug" <Doug.Sims(at)danahermotion.com> |
I agree! Although I still have my 20G Sears unit, it needs it's own 20amp
circuit and doesn't work well in the cold. over the long run you will be
much better off without the oiless. Spend the extra $100 it's worth it.
RV8
-----Original Message-----
From: DonEavesRV6 [mailto:DonEavesRV6(at)midsouth.rr.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Compressors
I agree with avoiding an oil-less unit - Noise! and it will not last as
long - After my oil-less gave up, I bought a upright 230 V 50 gal unit from
Sam's Club and it has lasted 6+ years with old forgetful leaving it on @ the
hangar for a few weeks at a time. Whatever brand Sam's, Costco or ? has
should do. A Name Brand will cost you more and most are build by 1 or 2
different co's anyway.
Don Eaves RV6 Flying 250+- hrs.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich(at)dcscorp.com>
Subject: RV-List: Air Compressors
>
> I am about to order my RV-8A emphanage kit. Does anyone have an opinion
> on the type and brand of air compressor that is best for RV
> construction? I attended the EAA RV Builder's Course last weekend in
> Corona where the general consensus was to avoid the oilless models
> because of noise. Went to the local Sears last night and the 30 gallon
> model I almost bought ($299 on sale) turned out to be oilless - so I
> deferred.
>
> Paul Valovich
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Duckett <perfeng(at)3rivers.net> |
To Paul and Doug,
When shopping for a compressor one of the primary things to be aware of
is the capacity of the compressor itself.
Many are advertised by horsepower rather than what they flow. I've seen
5H.P. compressors advertised anywhere from 3.6 to 12.5 CFM...Big
Difference! and these flow rates vary in pressure from 35# to 90#.
Most air tools consume anywhere from 1.5CFM for a 2X rivet gun operating
at 25# to 12.5CFM for die grinders running line pressure. Depending on
the make and model, paint guns eat a fair amount of air too, anywhere
from 3 to 9CFM. Some of the cheap-o HVLP's can use more than a grinder.
With that being said, I would recommend a compressor that flows at least
20% more than your highest normal use consumption at the highest
pressure you intend to have for working pressure. Example, you plan on
using all air tools in your shop as well as doing some painting. Lets
say your normal consumption will be 7 CFM and your highest working
pressure will be 90#. I would look for a compressor that flows at least
8.5 - 9 CFM @ 90#.
Also make sure that the unit has a large enough tank so the compressor
isn't running constantly. I would recommend that your tank is at least
the size of your usage. Most tank are advertised in gallons instead of
cubic feet. A cubic foot is 7.48 gallons.
9 X 7.48 gives you a tank size of approx. 67 Gallons.
So in this case you would want to find a compressor that flows 9 CFM @
90 # with a 60-70 gallon tank.
I would also recommend that you look for a two-stage compressor. They
tend to start easier, build up faster, and last longer with less
maintenance than single stage and direct drives.
Just a little input...Hope it helps!
Jim Duckett, RV-7A N708JD
Performance Engineering
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Lundin <rlundin46(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FIRST FLIGHT - WHELAN SUPER 8 |
Nice job Tom. I wish you were going to Reno this year.
I was looking forward to seeing you race.
Best to you,
Rick L
--- Bob J wrote:
>
>
> Tom, what does it weigh?
>
> Regards,
> Bob Japundza
> RV-6 flying, F1 qb under const.
>
>
> wrote:
> >
> > September 14th: The long awaited first flight of
> the Whelan Super 8 took
> > place at 13:15 in Bethlehem, CT. The aircraft
> performed flawlessly. Too bad we
> > won't make Reno this year. Many thanks to all who
> helped make this moment
> > possible, especially, Bill Benedict whose great
> friendship and eternal faith in this
> > project will never be forgotten. Special thanks
> also go out to Dan Decker,
> > the best rivet bucker in the business. Better
> mention the wife (PJ) too for her
> > infinite patience.
> >
> > Aircraft Background: IO540 S1AD, 300+++
> Horsepower, Air Flow Performance
> > Injection, Light Speed Ignition, Carbon Fiber
> Cowls and many more mods than we
> > don't have time to disclose. Mark F. "We can't
> wait."
> >
> > Regards,
> > Tom
> >
> > Tom Whelan
> > Whelan Farms Airport
> > President EAA Chapter 1097
> > wfact01(at)aol.com
> > 249 Hard Hill Road North
> > PO Box 426
> > Bethlehem, CT 06751
> > Tel: 203-266-5300
> > Fax: 202-266-5140
> > EAA Technical/Flight Advisor
> > RV-8 540 LYC (Just Flew 9/14, Look Out!)
> > S-51 Mustang Turbine (Under Construction)
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net> |
Yes, hurricanes are covered by all the insurance companies. No, coverage is not
contingent upon you moving the plane out of harms way. Remaining claim free
is of benefit to you for future insurability at the best rates (yes, even though
a resultant loss would be an act of God and not a judgement loss on your part,
i.e. fuel exhaustion, etc.)
I am posting this primarily to inform the vast majority of my policy holders in
the VanGuard Program that effective immediately, Phoenix (the company which underwrites
the VanGuard Program) has agreed to re-imburse their customers which
carry full or Ground not in motion coverage on their planes for moving their
planes out of a Hurricane Warning/Watch area. AIG is the only other company
which currently offers this type of re-imbursement, and the limitations (below)
are almost identical.
Phoenix's limitations:
1. Policy must already contain coverage F or G (Full inflight and ground or Ground
not in motion).
2. Must be relocated to another airport that is at least 100 NMs outside the warning/watch
area.
3. Reimbursement is limited to 50% of the total relocation cost (including ferry
pilot if necessary) or $500 whichever is less. $1000 max per year.
Phoenix nor any of the other companies will add physical damage coverage to policies
in the affected areas, nor will they start new policies in those areas currently.
No need to call and tell your agent your are or want to do this. Just keep the
receipts for gas, tied down costs, and other expenses, and contact your agent
after returning to your homebase to coordinate the reimbursement.
Sorry to be so brief, but my girls' daycare provider is sick, and I must go get
them. If you're insured elsewhere but through Phoenix or AIG, please call your
agent for more details. If you are insured by NationAir, any agent here in
my office can explain it to you further.
JT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Re : fuel return line |
Jack, the fuel system in series is pretty standard amongst the commercially
built aircraft I've seen. I've been flying since 1982 and haven't heard of
that happening, before. I'm sure things like that can happen. However, I'd
prefer to keep the fuel system simple and take the almost no risk of having
one trash the other. Adding complexity to a system can oftentimes cause
more problems than KISS. However, do what you have to do to make you have
warm fuzzies. I'll stick with what works for me, which is having the fuel
system components in series. Van's RV-6A drawings show the fuel system
components in series, as well. Thanks for the input, though.
Jim Sears in KY
> Not too many years ago, my friend Johnathan Crawford was flying a Beech
> (Whatever the cheap retractable was) when the electric pump failed and
some
> of its components went into the mechanical pump and killed it.
> He dead sticked onto Brand Boulevard in Glendale, CA during rush hour.
> I think I'd prefer my pumps in parallel, rather than series.
> FWIW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry2DT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Vetterman Exhaust |
List,
I'd like to compliment Larry Vetterman. I ordered my system from him at
Van's Homecoming on Sept. 4th. He said it would arrive in "2-3 weeks". The brown
van showed up yesterday , with the entire system. He flew home to SD,
fabbed my system, shipped it, and arrived here in 10 days. Don't you just love
folks who under-promise and over-perform? Thanks Larry!!!
Not only that, but this thing is a work of art, everything fit with no mods
at all. I had it bolted up to the engine in 15 min. Clearances are perfect for
my engine.
Needless to say, Vetterman Exhaust is highly recommended.
Jerry Cochran
RV6a/XPIO-360
Wilsonville, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: High fuel pressure |
Chris.
I had trouble with my Rocky sensor, reading high oil pressure, also a VDO
and it turned out it was a bad connection.
The Rocky reads higher pressure as lower resistance, ie an open reads top of
scale. I assume yours is the same.
Doug
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Good" <chrisjgood(at)lycos.com>
Subject: RV-List: High fuel pressure
>
> Listers,
>
> My EIS-4000 has started complaining about high fuel pressure recently.
This is on an O-360-A1A with a carb & the standard low pressure engine
driven fuel pump. In normal cruise, I get a fuel pressure reading somewhere
between 2 & 5 psi, which is fine. The problem occurs intermittently when
taxiing, & recently in the air when throttling back for a descent. The
pressure climbs to 10-12 psi.
>
> Looking back a couple of years at my engine monitor logs, the pressure
never used to exceed 6-7 psi. All the above readings are without the
electric boost pump.
>
> In looking at the archives & other internet sources I found two
suggestions:
>
> 1. The VDO pressure sensor is only good for 2-300 hrs. But this doesn't
seem like a sensor problem as my cruise readings are normal.
>
> 2. The fuel pump pressure regulator is vented to the crankcase & high
fuel pressure can be a symptom of breather blockage. This seems possible as
I have a home-made oil separator on the breather. Maybe this is blocked &
the engine is breathing through the whistle slot! I plan to check this in
the next couple of days.
>
> Has anyone experienced this? Any other suggestions?
>
> Regards,
>
> Chris Good,
> West Bend, WI
> RV-6A, 775 hrs
> --
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <dfiggins(at)es.com> |
I am also on empennage, after web research and in store comparison
settled on 5 HP and 20 gal tank, 30 gallon is better if you have space.
20 gallon is OK for everything except air cutoff tool (intermittent use
only). Get belt drive (much, much quieter) and cast iron compressor. The
unit I got from Lowes is rated continuous duty cycle with 3 year
warranty cost $350.
Dave Figgins RV-7A empennage
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dale Mitchell
Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Compressors
Get at least 5 HP and minium of 30 gallon and dont use an oilless.
When cutting the canopy you will need the capicity to run a air cuttoff
tool.
IMHO.
Dale Mitchell RV8A MN wing
--- "Valovich, Paul" wrote:
>
>
> I am about to order my RV-8A emphanage kit. Does anyone have an
> opinion on the type and brand of air compressor that is best for RV
> construction? I attended the EAA RV Builder's Course last weekend in
> Corona where the general consensus was to avoid the oilless models
> because of noise. Went to the local Sears last night and the 30 gallon
> model I almost bought ($299 on sale) turned out to be oilless - so I
> deferred.
>
> Paul Valovich
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
_______________________________
Declare Yourself - Register online to vote today!
http://vote.yahoo.com
=
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Fairings |
Trainnut01(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I saw an ad recently for some alumunum fairings that install over the rudder
> cables where they exit the fuselage. Now I can't remember where I saw them.
> Can someone help me over a senior moment?
> Carroll Jernigan
> East TN
> 7A Fuselage
These fairings are very easy to make out of scrap material:
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/fuse8.html
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karen and Robert Brown" <bkbrown(at)ashcreekwireless.com> |
| Subject: | gluing canopy to frame |
Hi everyone, I'm happy to be back on the list after a 6 month absence, moving (the
plane was unscathed) and getting back to work.
I'd like to start a thread to investigate the wisdom (and results if there are
any) of gluing the canopy to the frame instead of using screws. I noticed in
an earlier post from Jim Duckett in Nov. of 2001 the mention of using a product
from FUSOR. In that post, Jim mentioned that adhesive manufacturer had a brand
that GM uses to glue the door hinges onto the door posts in its new vehicles.
Details of that post are in the archives.
While all of us are building "plans built" aircraft, and the plans call for screws
to be used to attach the canopy to the frame, I think the case can be made
that using an adhesive might save time and might eliminate issues with cracking,
while still performing the most critical task -- keeping the canopy attached
to the frame in flight... I believe this is how all plexi is fixed into canopies
and window panels of modern jet aircraft of almost all types, surely we
can find an adhesive suitable for our application. I believe I heard that builders
in South Africa were using this technique, but could find nothing like
that in the archives, so maybe I was imagining it.
Does anyone have real information on this??
Bob Brown
Independence, OR
RV-7AQB (finish)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "czechsix(at)juno.com" <czechsix(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | grass runway smoothness for RV operations |
Guys,
Is there any rule of thumb to know whether a grass strip is smooth enough to operate
an RV out of? In this case I'm talking about a strip that is a couple years
old and has only had a Cub and Stinson fly in and out of it, both of which
fly slower and have bigger tires than an RV. The strip has has never been rolled,
and never had an RV or anything with smaller wheels land on it...the owner
expressed some concern about the RV landing on it but he isn't too familiar
with the RV design so I don't know if his concerns are justified. Is there
any sort of objective criteria one can use before landing an RV on it to determine
whether it's smooth enough?
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D finishing...
Get your name as your email address.
Includes spam protection, 1GB storage, no ads and more
Only $1.99/ month - visit http://www.mysite.com/name today!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | FIRST FLIGHT - WHELAN SUPER 8 |
Tom,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (Westerly, RI)
>From: WFACT01(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: FIRST FLIGHT - WHELAN SUPER 8
>Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 20:44:32 EDT
>
>
>September 14th: The long awaited first flight of the Whelan Super 8 took
>place at 13:15 in Bethlehem, CT. The aircraft performed flawlessly. Too
>bad we
>won't make Reno this year. Many thanks to all who helped make this moment
>possible, especially, Bill Benedict whose great friendship and eternal
>faith in this
>project will never be forgotten. Special thanks also go out to Dan Decker,
>the best rivet bucker in the business. Better mention the wife (PJ) too for
>her
>infinite patience.
>
>Aircraft Background: IO540 S1AD, 300+++ Horsepower, Air Flow Performance
>Injection, Light Speed Ignition, Carbon Fiber Cowls and many more mods than
>we
>don't have time to disclose. Mark F. "We can't wait."
>
>Regards,
>Tom
>
>
>Tom Whelan
>Whelan Farms Airport
>President EAA Chapter 1097
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: gluing canopy to frame |
In a message dated 9/15/04 12:49:52 PM Central Daylight Time,
bkbrown(at)ashcreekwireless.com writes:
> I'd like to start a thread to investigate the wisdom (and results if there
> are any) of gluing the canopy to the frame instead of using screws.
FWIW, I used proseal to attach both canopy parts (tip-up) to the canopy frame
and cabin frame (rollbar) to avoid exposed screws or holes in the plexi.
(Screws and proseal were used for the rear skin and sides of the canopy frame)
Due (I believe) to the different expansion rates of the aluminum rollbar and
the plexi, as soon as the plane was exposed to some real heat in direct
sunlight, the proseal separated from the plexi in some areas of the rollbar, but
has
held nicely to the canopy frame, which is less rigid than the rollbar. I
didn't scuff the plexi prior to application which may have contributed to the
separation, just thoroughly cleaned it. Other materials may hold better, but I
would be concerned about the stresses from temperature variation. I you're doing
a slider, this may not be as much of an issue, however.......
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark -6A, 110 hours & waiting for call from painter!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | gluing canopy to frame |
Hi,
I'm planning on doing this with my RV8. I don't have the
details from the kitplanes article by the South African
guy, but I did find some information on the web site that
supplies the glue he used. I copied it onto my web site
in case they move theirs:
http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story 040515213437823
Their URL is http://www.sikaindustry.com/ipd-marine-window-295
The stuff from "Barefoot Billy" Waters looks great - I'll
try to contact him for more details.
Additionally, I met a German guy with an RV6
http://www.rv8.ch/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=Interlaken04&id=DSC01822
who glued on his canopy using the same stuff. Been flying
with no trouble for about 6 years, IIRC.
I'm sure this will be the recommended way to attach the
canopy to the frame in about 5-10 years! :-)
Mickey
>In my Super 8 section, under interesting. You will see some photos of a
>glue job on an 8 canopy.
>http://www.mstewart.net/michael/rv/index.htm
>
>
>>I'd like to start a thread to investigate the wisdom (and results if
>>there are any) of gluing the canopy to the frame instead of using
>>screws. ...
>
>--
>Mickey Coggins
>http://www.rv8.ch/
>#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: gluing canopy to frame |
Take a look at the January 2004 issue of EAA Sport Aviation. There is
an article there about installing your canopy with Sikaflex 295UV adhesive.
Also see http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story 040515213437823 and
http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv9-list/Digest.RV9-List.2004-01-27.txt
I am going to use this (Sikaflex 295UV) to attach my canopy. Will let
the group know how it comes out.
Dick Tasker
Karen and Robert Brown wrote:
>
>Hi everyone, I'm happy to be back on the list after a 6 month absence, moving
(the plane was unscathed) and getting back to work.
>
>I'd like to start a thread to investigate the wisdom (and results if there are
any) of gluing the canopy to the frame instead of using screws. I noticed in
an earlier post from Jim Duckett in Nov. of 2001 the mention of using a product
from FUSOR. In that post, Jim mentioned that adhesive manufacturer had a brand
that GM uses to glue the door hinges onto the door posts in its new vehicles.
Details of that post are in the archives.
>
>While all of us are building "plans built" aircraft, and the plans call for screws
to be used to attach the canopy to the frame, I think the case can be made
that using an adhesive might save time and might eliminate issues with cracking,
while still performing the most critical task -- keeping the canopy attached
to the frame in flight... I believe this is how all plexi is fixed into canopies
and window panels of modern jet aircraft of almost all types, surely we
can find an adhesive suitable for our application. I believe I heard that builders
in South Africa were using this technique, but could find nothing like
that in the archives, so maybe I was imagining it.
>
>Does anyone have real information on this??
>
>
>Bob Brown
>Independence, OR
>RV-7AQB (finish)
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: gluing canopy to frame |
Here is an exerp of an earlier email with glue info sent before I
actually glued it.
I have since glued the canopy on with good results, The one thing i
would do differently is to glue the canopy on with bare minimum of glue,
let this set, then go back and backfill and smooth out. for better
astetics. my canopy moved a tad too much and it was hard to get an even
looking result.
Hi Todd
Yes I definitely will try and glue. Matter of fact, talked with SIKA,
the folks mentioned in my previous email and the Sport Aviation article.
(Steve @ 1-888-832-7452).
Very, very nice person. First words were "Sorry, we do not support your
application", right after that, " now that I have said that, how can I
really help you............"
We talked for a while, Steve mentioned that his phone has been ringing
off the hook ever since the Sport Aviation article came out. He kinda
jokingly grumbled that he has had more response to an article SIKA did
not write for, a use SIKA does not support in a magazine SIKA did not
know about than what his total advertisement budget generated last year.
Steve said I should very carefully read the info at
http://www.sikaindustry.com/ipd-marine-window-295. and recommended to use
SIKA 209 to cover the plexi to make it opaque, SIKA 226 for cleaning the
frame and SIKAFLEX 295UV BLACK for gluing the canopy on, trying to get
at least 1/8" space between the canopy and the frame.
He recommends that all structural bonding is done in the BLACK urethane
as it has much better UV properties. if needed, one can make filets with
WHITE urethane over the black stuff, 295UV comes in black and white colors.
Most places I called would only sell a case of 12 10-ounce tubes of the
295UV, Again Steve to the rescue......Jamestown Distributors @
800-423-0030 will sell you individually, pricing: about 12 for a tube of
295UV black or white, 31 for a pint of 209 and 11 for a pint of 226. So,
that's what I ordered, tube o' black&white, 226 and 209. One could say I
am now committed ;-)
Took me a weekend to cut the canopy. Agony, agony, agony, lots of
sweat..................
if there is one thing I would do different is to not cut the rear of the
canopy, till I have the front close. Originally, my canopy did not even
cover half the tubes on the side frames of the slider. by dropping the
front 1/8" at the time I brought the sides of the canopy till just even
with the bottom of the frame. This however did 2 things, one it brought
the highest point of the canopy forward as it is sliding over the
roll-over bar, and two, it pulls the rear of the canopy forward. I had
cut some off the rear in an attempt to make the canopy come down as a
whole. ( I am 6'6", I need all the headroom I can have ;-)
Well, there you have it, my experience so far for posterity, to pass
along if you so wish. I will let you know what transpires when I get to
the gluing bit. Let me know if you can milk any info out of Charlie,
Sure would like to know what sticks better to plexi and canopy frames
than Kryptonite to Superman.
Gert
Mickey Coggins wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I'm planning on doing this with my RV8. I don't have the
> details from the kitplanes article by the South African
> guy, but I did find some information on the web site that
> supplies the glue he used. I copied it onto my web site
> in case they move theirs:
>
> http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story 040515213437823
>
> Their URL is http://www.sikaindustry.com/ipd-marine-window-295
>
> The stuff from "Barefoot Billy" Waters looks great - I'll
> try to contact him for more details.
>
> Additionally, I met a German guy with an RV6
> http://www.rv8.ch/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=Interlaken04&id=DSC01822
> who glued on his canopy using the same stuff. Been flying
> with no trouble for about 6 years, IIRC.
>
> I'm sure this will be the recommended way to attach the
> canopy to the frame in about 5-10 years! :-)
>
> Mickey
>
>
>
>>In my Super 8 section, under interesting. You will see some photos of a
>>glue job on an 8 canopy.
>>http://www.mstewart.net/michael/rv/index.htm
>>
>>
>>
>>>I'd like to start a thread to investigate the wisdom (and results if
>>>there are any) of gluing the canopy to the frame instead of using
>>>screws. ...
>>
>>--
>>Mickey Coggins
>>http://www.rv8.ch/
>>#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Remove Aileron Twist |
| From: | "" <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com> |
All,
I posted a message a few days about aileron twist, and I thought I would follow
up with the results.
After initially riveting the top surface of my RV7A aileron, I found that I had
around 1/8" twist in the trailing edge.
The insructions say to flip it over, weigh it down, then pop-rivet the bottom side.
I basically did just that, but I used a LOT of weight. I cut a nice, flat
board to the width of the aileron and loaded it down with four 25 lb bags of
lead shot (distributed across board). That obviously kept the aileron flat
on the table, while I proceeded to finish riveting the bottom edge. When I was
finished, the edge came out perfectly straight...a maximum of 0.04" twist.
FWIW...
Thanks for the help,
Scott
7A Wings - Flaps are all that's left
www.scottsrv7a.com
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | grass runway smoothness for RV operations |
>
> Guys,
>
> Is there any rule of thumb to know whether a grass strip is
> smooth enough to operate an RV out of? In this case I'm
> talking about a strip that is a couple years old and has only
> had a Cub and Stinson fly in and out of it, both of which fly
> slower and have bigger tires than an RV. The strip has has
> never been rolled, and never had an RV or anything with
> smaller wheels land on it...the owner expressed some concern
> about the RV landing on it but he isn't too familiar with the
> RV design so I don't know if his concerns are justified. Is
> there any sort of objective criteria one can use before
> landing an RV on it to determine whether it's smooth enough?
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A N2D finishing...
Mark,
This has come up before on this list. Generally, I don't think the
wheel size is the limitation in our case, the localized holes better not
be so big as to be a problem. The problem comes with undulations in the
strip, and the resonant frequency of the trigear setup. The trigears
will really get into pitch oscillations with the right combination of
speed, balance and waves in the strip. Don't try to correct for them
with elevator, just freeze the elevator at the takeoff position and ride
them out.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 522 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: grass runway smoothness for RV operations |
Mark Navratil,
I would talk to Ron White, TC for Chapter 33. As you know he flies a Long
Ez. He and his wife Connie fly into the grass Village Oaks airstrip at Blue
Grass Iowa without any problems. With that said it is a smooth strip. I'd
have Ron look at your proposed strip. I know you can depend on what he says
as he is very conservative.
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
EAA Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
Chapter 75
Rock Island, IL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: grass runway smoothness for RV operations
>
> >
> > Guys,
> >
> > Is there any rule of thumb to know whether a grass strip is
> > smooth enough to operate an RV out of? In this case I'm
> > talking about a strip that is a couple years old and has only
> > had a Cub and Stinson fly in and out of it, both of which fly
> > slower and have bigger tires than an RV. The strip has has
> > never been rolled, and never had an RV or anything with
> > smaller wheels land on it...the owner expressed some concern
> > about the RV landing on it but he isn't too familiar with the
> > RV design so I don't know if his concerns are justified. Is
> > there any sort of objective criteria one can use before
> > landing an RV on it to determine whether it's smooth enough?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > --Mark Navratil
> > Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> > RV-8A N2D finishing...
>
> Mark,
> This has come up before on this list. Generally, I don't think the
> wheel size is the limitation in our case, the localized holes better not
> be so big as to be a problem. The problem comes with undulations in the
> strip, and the resonant frequency of the trigear setup. The trigears
> will really get into pitch oscillations with the right combination of
> speed, balance and waves in the strip. Don't try to correct for them
> with elevator, just freeze the elevator at the takeoff position and ride
> them out.
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> RV6-A N66AP 522 hours
>
> http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
"RV-8(at)yahoogroups.com"
| Subject: | spraylat removal |
Hi Folks
I am trying to remove my spraylat layer from my canopy. it's coming off
over about 90 percent of the canopy with no problem......however...on
the remaining 10 percent it sticks better to the plexi than kryptonite
to superman!!
Does anybody have a good suggestion/solution to persuade the spraylat
from letting go of the canopy???
Thanks in advance.
Gert
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nels Hanson <pa201950(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: grass runway smoothness for RV operations |
I walk my grass strip every once in awhile to check
for ground squirrel holes,ect. If it is bumpy to your
feet,it is going to chatter your wheel pants. Best bet
is to wait for a good rain and then get some asphalt
company to come out with a vibratory roller and beat
the bumps back into the ground. It is well worth the
$300-$400 it might cost. You should only have to do
this once a year. Since you are in a freeze thaw area
I could see this happening every spring. The key is
getting a very large roller or one that is vibratory.
--- "czechsix(at)juno.com" wrote:
>
>
>
> Guys,
>
> Is there any rule of thumb to know whether a grass
> strip is smooth enough to operate an RV out of? In
> this case I'm talking about a strip that is a couple
> years old and has only had a Cub and Stinson fly in
> and out of it, both of which fly slower and have
> bigger tires than an RV. The strip has has never
> been rolled, and never had an RV or anything with
> smaller wheels land on it...the owner expressed some
> concern about the RV landing on it but he isn't too
> familiar with the RV design so I don't know if his
> concerns are justified. Is there any sort of
> objective criteria one can use before landing an RV
> on it to determine whether it's smooth enough?
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A N2D finishing...
>
> Get your name as your email address.
> Includes spam protection, 1GB storage, no ads and
> more
> Only $1.99/ month - visit http://www.mysite.com/name
> today!
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
_______________________________
Declare Yourself - Register online to vote today!
http://vote.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: grass runway smoothness for RV operations |
Mark,
Having not the wisdom to ask this question on the List, I have been landing
on a surface like you describe with no problems. I wish it were smoother, but
the RV seems to take the roughness pretty well. I would advise about 3/4 inch
of clearance around the tires. I run 35 psi tire pressure in all 3
(tri-gear). I have an IO-360 up front and the nose wheel carries quite a lot of
weight, so I keep back stick as much as possible when landing -- takeoffs too for
that matter, except the plane just goes up if I do that!
BTW has anyone put 6.00 x 6s on the mains? There seems to be plenty of room
in the wheel fairings for the larger tires, and it would seem to help us
country boys.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A N766DH flying about 43 hours now.
In a message dated 9/15/04 1:08:58 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
czechsix(at)juno.com writes:
>
>
> Guys,
>
> Is there any rule of thumb to know whether a grass strip is smooth enough to
> operate an RV out of? In this case I'm talking about a strip that is a
> couple years old and has only had a Cub and Stinson fly in and out of it, both
of
> which fly slower and have bigger tires than an RV. The strip has has never
> been rolled, and never had an RV or anything with smaller wheels land on
> it...the owner expressed some concern about the RV landing on it but he isn't
too
> familiar with the RV design so I don't know if his concerns are justified.
> Is there any sort of objective criteria one can use before landing an RV on
> it to determine whether it's smooth enough?
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A N2D finishing...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leelesher(at)cs.com |
Someone e-mailed me asking about my wood prop on an IO-360 and I have lost the
address. Please e-mail again.
Lee Lesher
RV-8 Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | gluing canopy to frame |
Bob,
We used SemWeld from 3M - came in a caulking type tube (you'll need one
their caulking type guns - see if you can borrow one from an Auto body
shop). We have 300+ hours on our canopy -No issues. It can also be painted.
You might want to check the archives under my name back in 2001 - I'm pretty
sure I posted a report on it. Please email me off line if you have any
questions.
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "Karen and Robert Brown" <bkbrown(at)ashcreekwireless.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: gluing canopy to frame
>Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2004 10:56:01 -0700
>
>
>
>Hi everyone, I'm happy to be back on the list after a 6 month absence,
>moving (the plane was unscathed) and getting back to work.
>
>I'd like to start a thread to investigate the wisdom (and results if there
>are any) of gluing the canopy to the frame instead of using screws. I
>noticed in an earlier post from Jim Duckett in Nov. of 2001 the mention of
>using a product from FUSOR. In that post, Jim mentioned that adhesive
>manufacturer had a brand that GM uses to glue the door hinges onto the door
>posts in its new vehicles. Details of that post are in the archives.
>
>While all of us are building "plans built" aircraft, and the plans call for
>screws to be used to attach the canopy to the frame, I think the case can
>be made that using an adhesive might save time and might eliminate issues
>with cracking, while still performing the most critical task -- keeping the
>canopy attached to the frame in flight... I believe this is how all plexi
>is fixed into canopies and window panels of modern jet aircraft of almost
>all types, surely we can find an adhesive suitable for our application. I
>believe I heard that builders in South Africa were using this technique,
>but could find nothing like that in the archives, so maybe I was imagining
>it.
>
>Does anyone have real information on this??
>
>
>Bob Brown
>Independence, OR
>RV-7AQB (finish)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | enabling approaches on UPSAT GX50 |
I spoke with the Garmin folks about my gx50 today because I couldnt get approaches
enabled. I was told the faa must first certify the install, then the instller
can make the switch. Has anyone done this? I dont have the install manual
with me now?
Shemp
6a
Chicago/Louisville
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "steven dinieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | spraylat removal |
Gert, the spraylat is hard to remove when it's too thin to peel. Try
masking small areas around the offending spraylat and apply a good heavy
coat to dry overnight. Then just peel off in the morning..
Steve
Hi Folks
I am trying to remove my spraylat layer from my canopy. it's coming off
over about 90 percent of the canopy with no problem......however...on
the remaining 10 percent it sticks better to the plexi than kryptonite
to superman!!
Does anybody have a good suggestion/solution to persuade the spraylat
from letting go of the canopy???
Thanks in advance.
Gert
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal / Carol Kempthorne <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: gluing canopy to frame |
At 10:56 AM 9/15/2004, you wrote:
>
>I'd like to start a thread to investigate the wisdom (and results if there
>are any) of gluing the canopy to the frame instead of using screws.
Use a glue known to be kind to acrylic. Many resins are not. The wrong
stuff can cause crazing and even cracking, neither of which are desirable.
I suppose epoxy must be okay since it is the choice for windshield fairings
attach.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruno <rv4(at)videotron.ca> |
| Subject: | DYNON D10A & ENCODER PROTOCOL |
Hello All
Are there any listers who have installed a Dynon D10A lately
and used the serial encoder for a Garmin GTX 327?
Which protocol did you used and was it worth it. I presently
have an Ameriking AK-350 blind encoder connected to my GTX 327 and it's
working fine. So I'm wondering if there are any advantages in using this
feature?
Also is there anyone with a web site with pictures of the Dynon's
installation? As you know a picture is worth a 1000 words....
Thanks a lot for your imputs.
Bruno Dionne
C-GDBH RV-4
rv4(at)videotron.ca
P.S# You may reply OFF list if you wish.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | eregensburg <eregensburg(at)triad.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: WTB RV -6/6A or-7/7A |
I just listed my 6A on Trade a plane
eregensburg(at)triad.rr.com
>
>Hi,
>
>A friend of mine is having bad luck finding an RV for sale. An
>ex-military pilot, he likes the acrobatic feel with side-by-side
>seating of the -6 and -7 models. He doesn't care which end the
>third wheel is attached. He prefers IFR equipped. Please send me
>particulars and contact info!
>
>cheers,
>Chuck Packard
>YankeeRV10(at)yahoo.com
>
>
>
>_______________________________
>Declare Yourself - Register online to vote today!
>http://vote.yahoo.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | spraylat removal |
I also had trouble removing Spraylat from my canopy. A high pressure washer
worked for me very well. I used a 2200 PSI washer and it blasted the Spraylat
of easily. In about 10-15 minutes it sparkled with no damage from the
pressure washer.
Pat Long
PGLong(at)aol.com
N120PL
RV4
Bay City, Michigan
3CM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Glasgow" <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com> |
About 6 months ago specks in the fuel started to show up.
During preflight when the aircraft had set for some time, when I drain fuel
from under the wing I find some brown or blackish specks floating in the
fuel. It takes about 6 ounces of draining to clear up the specks. I don't
think it is from the fuel truck.
Has anyone experienced something similar? Could it be the tanks sealer is
dissolving?
I have a QB RV8, 10 months since first flight with 140 hours total.
Thanks,
Steve Glasgow
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Simmons" <ken(at)truckstop.com> |
| Subject: | Re: DYNON D10A & ENCODER PROTOCOL |
Bruno,
You need to set the GTX 327 to receive the Icarus format. I haven't installed mine
yet, but I have verified this in a bench test. The microEncoder from RMI calls
it the Northstar format and Transcal calls it the Trimble/Garmin format.
Nothing like standards to make all of this easier.
Ken
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: Bruno <rv4(at)videotron.ca>
Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2004 00:49:05 -0400
>
>Hello All
> Are there any listers who have installed a Dynon D10A lately
>and used the serial encoder for a Garmin GTX 327?
>
> Which protocol did you used and was it worth it. I presently
>have an Ameriking AK-350 blind encoder connected to my GTX 327 and it's
>working fine. So I'm wondering if there are any advantages in using this
>feature?
>
>Also is there anyone with a web site with pictures of the Dynon's
>installation? As you know a picture is worth a 1000 words....
>
>Thanks a lot for your imputs.
>
>Bruno Dionne
>C-GDBH RV-4
>rv4(at)videotron.ca
>
>P.S# You may reply OFF list if you wish.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Shirley Harding" <shirleyh(at)argo.net.au> |
Hi all -- any photos or advice on an alternator set-up for an RV6. I've got the
Vans brackets and a Bosch alternator but it seems to hit the lower cowl.
Cheers
Shirley
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Diffenbaugh" <diff(at)foothill.net> |
| Subject: | Rudder Cable Fairings |
I decided not to make my own and ordered a set from Avery (p/n10728 pg 74 in
catalog $9.00/pr). They are absolute junk. The only item I purchased from
Avery that was not top notch. I will return them some day.
I just received a beautiful set from Karen at Aviation Products, in Ojai, CA
(ph 805-646-6042) p/n 5387 @$8.95/pr. She shipped them overnight and said
to send a check when received. Amazing service! Just trim to size, drill,
dimple, and rivet. No epoxe filler required on these.
Scott Diffenbaugh
diff(at)foothill.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chuck <chuck515tigger(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Guys & Gals,
Two questions. First is fairly simple; does anyone have or know where I can get
a pair of Van's "Old Style" top, aluminum wing root fairings?
Second is more complex; I've had an "interesting" short in my wiring for about
6 months. Everything is Fine in positive "G's" but when I get negative (anything
at or exceeding -1 "G" ) my Amp meter pegs out to the + side and my KLX-135A
re-sets. This is only momentarily; meaning it goes back to normal in a second
or two whether I release the negative "G" loads or not.
Now I've of course pulled everything apart, checked connections, re-placed the
Amp meter, and bundled any wires that could possibly touch anything. I'm wondering
if it could be something inside the alternator (Honda type from "Auto-Zone").
Any thoughts or "clues" would be greatly appreciated. This ones causing me to
gain mo' grey hairs. Thanks,
Chuck
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Good" <chrisjgood(at)lycos.com> |
| Subject: | Re: High fuel pressure |
Doug,
Thanks for the suggestion. If the oil separator appears to be clear, I'll check
out the sensor connection. If I still get high pressure readings I'll replace
the sensor.
Regards,
Chris.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2004 11:35:13 -0500
Subject: Re: RV-List: High fuel pressure
Chris.
I had trouble with my Rocky sensor, reading high oil pressure, also a VDO
and it turned out it was a bad connection.
The Rocky reads higher pressure as lower resistance, ie an open reads top of
scale. I assume yours is the same.
Doug
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Good" <chrisjgood(at)lycos.com>
Subject: RV-List: High fuel pressure
>
> Listers,
>
> My EIS-4000 has started complaining about high fuel pressure recently.
This is on an O-360-A1A with a carb & the standard low pressure engine
driven fuel pump. In normal cruise, I get a fuel pressure reading somewhere
between 2 & 5 psi, which is fine. The problem occurs intermittently when
taxiing, & recently in the air when throttling back for a descent. The
pressure climbs to 10-12 psi.
>
> Looking back a couple of years at my engine monitor logs, the pressure
never used to exceed 6-7 psi. All the above readings are without the
electric boost pump.
>
> In looking at the archives & other internet sources I found two
suggestions:
>
> 1. The VDO pressure sensor is only good for 2-300 hrs. But this doesn't
seem like a sensor problem as my cruise readings are normal.
>
> 2. The fuel pump pressure regulator is vented to the crankcase & high
fuel pressure can be a symptom of breather blockage. This seems possible as
I have a home-made oil separator on the breather. Maybe this is blocked &
the engine is breathing through the whistle slot! I plan to check this in
the next couple of days.
>
> Has anyone experienced this? Any other suggestions?
>
> Regards,
>
> Chris Good,
> West Bend, WI
> RV-6A, 775 hrs
> --
>
>
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
Listers,
Has anyone out there purchased and installed a Ray Allen Stick grip? I'm
waiting for mine. I'd like to draw up the schematic while I wait. Could you
please tell me the color codes of the wires on the servos? I also would
like the color codes on the wire that they include with the grip kit. I
called Ray Allen last week. He couldn't definitively tell me what the color
coding was on the wires.
Thanks
Charlie Kuss
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dcw(at)nomadwi.com> |
Chuck:
I have 2 aluminum RV-4 wing root fairings left over from my project. Never
touched. Contact me off list.
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
dcw(at)nomadwi.com
>
> Two questions. First is fairly simple; does anyone have or know where I
> can get a pair of Van's "Old Style" top, aluminum wing root fairings?
>
> Second is more complex; I've had an "interesting" short in my wiring for
> about 6 months. Everything is Fine in positive "G's" but when I get
> negative (anything at or exceeding -1 "G" ) my Amp meter pegs out to the +
> side and my KLX-135A re-sets. This is only momentarily; meaning it goes
> back to normal in a second or two whether I release the negative "G" loads
> or not.
>
> Now I've of course pulled everything apart, checked connections, re-placed
> the Amp meter, and bundled any wires that could possibly touch anything.
> I'm wondering if it could be something inside the alternator (Honda type
> from "Auto-Zone").
>
> Any thoughts or "clues" would be greatly appreciated. This ones causing
> me to gain mo' grey hairs. Thanks,
>
> Chuck
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Good source for West System epoxy or equiv. |
I'd like to buy some West System epoxy or something
"just as good", and I'm looking for a good source.
Spruce looks ok, but they won't ship it international
since they claim it is "hazardous". I don't really
know why it is considered hazardous.
I can buy it "locally", but its about 2.5x the US price,
and I can't really stomach that kind of markup.
Thanks for any pointers!
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Beene" <kbeene(at)citilink.com> |
| Subject: | enabling approaches on UPSAT GX50 |
Jeff,
It has been a while but I didn't have any trouble enabling approach on by
GX-60.
It must be connected to other devices for the approach function to be
enabled. The following is from the install manual. I can send the PDF to
you if you like.
For TSO-C129a A1 (non-precision approach) operation the following
connections are also
required:
. external lamp annunciators including "APPRCH" and "ACTIVE"
. an "OBS/HLD" external annunciator (with switch)
. altitude input from an altitude encoder/converter or air data computer
Ken
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Dowling
> Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2004 9:24 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: enabling approaches on UPSAT GX50
>
>
> I spoke with the Garmin folks about my gx50 today because I couldnt get
> approaches enabled. I was told the faa must first certify the install,
> then the instller can make the switch. Has anyone done this? I dont
> have the install manual with me now?
>
> Shemp
> 6a
> Chicago/Louisville
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jordan Grant" <gra9933(at)bellsouth.net> |
If I recall, my grips came with a bunch of 24 AWG white wire. I had to do
some soldering and stuff myself. No color code - all white.
Jordan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Charlie Kuss
Subject: RV-List: RAC info needed
Listers,
Has anyone out there purchased and installed a Ray Allen Stick grip? I'm
waiting for mine. I'd like to draw up the schematic while I wait. Could you
please tell me the color codes of the wires on the servos? I also would
like the color codes on the wire that they include with the grip kit. I
called Ray Allen last week. He couldn't definitively tell me what the color
coding was on the wires.
Thanks
Charlie Kuss
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Good source for West System epoxy or equiv. |
Micky,
Try West Marine, that's where I bought all of my West system epoxy supplies. Cannot
comment as to international shipping policy though.
http://www.westmarine.com/
Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
I'd like to buy some West System epoxy or something
"just as good", and I'm looking for a good source.
Spruce looks ok, but they won't ship it international
since they claim it is "hazardous". I don't really
know why it is considered hazardous.
I can buy it "locally", but its about 2.5x the US price,
and I can't really stomach that kind of markup.
Thanks for any pointers!
--
Mickey Coggins
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Good source for West System epoxy or equiv. |
I get mine direct from West. www.westsystem.com Lots of good
information on their web site too.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mickey Coggins
Subject: RV-List: Good source for West System epoxy or equiv.
I'd like to buy some West System epoxy or something
"just as good", and I'm looking for a good source.
Spruce looks ok, but they won't ship it international
since they claim it is "hazardous". I don't really
know why it is considered hazardous.
I can buy it "locally", but its about 2.5x the US price,
and I can't really stomach that kind of markup.
Thanks for any pointers!
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Good source for West System epoxy or equiv. |
Might try Wicks. I bought mine from them without a hazard fee but then it
was a US shipment.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Galati" <rick6a(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: Good source for West System epoxy or equiv.
>
> Micky,
>
> Try West Marine, that's where I bought all of my West system epoxy
supplies. Cannot comment as to international shipping policy though.
>
> http://www.westmarine.com/
>
> Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
>
>
> I'd like to buy some West System epoxy or something
> "just as good", and I'm looking for a good source.
>
> Spruce looks ok, but they won't ship it international
> since they claim it is "hazardous". I don't really
> know why it is considered hazardous.
>
> I can buy it "locally", but its about 2.5x the US price,
> and I can't really stomach that kind of markup.
>
> Thanks for any pointers!
>
>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
Chuck,
To the + side means the alternator is running away -- overcharging. Turn off
the alternator field breaker and try it. If that fixes it, it has to be in
the regulator or field circuit. If not??????? It certainly could be in the
alternator, or anywhere, I guess, until you find it!
Dan Hopper
Automotive electrical engineer, ret.
N766DH (Flying about 43 hours now.)
In a message dated 9/16/04 12:50:58 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
chuck515tigger(at)yahoo.com writes:
>
>
> Hi Guys &Gals,
>
> Two questions. First is fairly simple; does anyone have or know where I can
> get a pair of Van's "Old Style" top, aluminum wing root fairings?
>
> Second is more complex; I've had an "interesting" short in my wiring for
> about 6 months. Everything is Fine in positive "G's" but when I get negative
> (anything at or exceeding -1 "G" ) my Amp meter pegs out to the + side and my
> KLX-135A re-sets. This is only momentarily; meaning it goes back to normal
> in a second or two whether I release the negative "G" loads or not.
>
> Now I've of course pulled everything apart, checked connections, re-placed
> the Amp meter, and bundled any wires that could possibly touch anything. I'm
> wondering if it could be something inside the alternator (Honda type from
> "Auto-Zone").
>
> Any thoughts or "clues" would be greatly appreciated. This ones causing me
> to gain mo' grey hairs. Thanks,
>
> Chuck
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Specks in fuel! |
on zoot.lafn.org
My -6 has been doing this on the right tank since it was new (2000).
It's never been a problem and none has made it to the filter but it is
kind of annoying, wondering what it is. It almost has to be sealer since
it's there any time I sump the tank. Maybe I should save some and
analyze it.
Are you seeing it in both tanks?
Dave Bristol RV6 SO Cal
Steve Glasgow wrote:
>
>About 6 months ago specks in the fuel started to show up.
>
>During preflight when the aircraft had set for some time, when I drain fuel
>from under the wing I find some brown or blackish specks floating in the
>fuel. It takes about 6 ounces of draining to clear up the specks. I don't
>think it is from the fuel truck.
>
>Has anyone experienced something similar? Could it be the tanks sealer is
>dissolving?
>
>I have a QB RV8, 10 months since first flight with 140 hours total.
>
>Thanks,
>Steve Glasgow
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Specks in fuel! on zoot.lafn.org |
Dave: I am not flaming -- Just curious and interested. Your plane has been
flying for 4 years and has been doing this since day one.
You are seeing bits of stuff but don't really know -- I guess you might be
suggesting it is proseal ?
Just wondering, did you build your own tanks or where they built by someone
else?
If you built them, was anything at all introduced into the tank other than
proseal?
Is it possible that the tanks were open to invasion by outsiders such as mud
dobbers or spiders that might of planted some materials inside the tanks
prior to them being sealed close? Anything other than fuel ever put into
the tank that you know of?
You say none of the bits made it to the filter. Let me ask, Do you have a
fuel filter or the Vans gascolator? If its the gascolator, when you drain a
bit from the gascolator do you have the electric fuel pump turned on? Larry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Bristol" <bj034(at)lafn.org>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Specks in fuel! on zoot.lafn.org
>
> My -6 has been doing this on the right tank since it was new (2000).
> It's never been a problem and none has made it to the filter but it is
> kind of annoying, wondering what it is. It almost has to be sealer since
> it's there any time I sump the tank. Maybe I should save some and
> analyze it.
>
> Are you seeing it in both tanks?
>
> Dave Bristol RV6 SO Cal
>
> Steve Glasgow wrote:
>
> >
> >About 6 months ago specks in the fuel started to show up.
> >
> >During preflight when the aircraft had set for some time, when I drain
fuel
> >from under the wing I find some brown or blackish specks floating in the
> >fuel. It takes about 6 ounces of draining to clear up the specks. I
don't
> >think it is from the fuel truck.
> >
> >Has anyone experienced something similar? Could it be the tanks sealer
is
> >dissolving?
> >
> >I have a QB RV8, 10 months since first flight with 140 hours total.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Steve Glasgow
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "steve zicree" <szicree(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Specks in fuel! on zoot.lafn.org |
This might be a lame idea, but do the bits float or sink in fuel? I don't
know whether little crumbs of proseal would float or sink, but the fuel
sender gasket is cork. It could also be something from the sending unit
itself.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Bristol" <bj034(at)lafn.org>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Specks in fuel! on zoot.lafn.org
>
> My -6 has been doing this on the right tank since it was new (2000).
> It's never been a problem and none has made it to the filter but it is
> kind of annoying, wondering what it is. It almost has to be sealer since
> it's there any time I sump the tank. Maybe I should save some and
> analyze it.
>
> Are you seeing it in both tanks?
>
> Dave Bristol RV6 SO Cal
>
> Steve Glasgow wrote:
>
> >
> >About 6 months ago specks in the fuel started to show up.
> >
> >During preflight when the aircraft had set for some time, when I drain
fuel
> >from under the wing I find some brown or blackish specks floating in the
> >fuel. It takes about 6 ounces of draining to clear up the specks. I
don't
> >think it is from the fuel truck.
> >
> >Has anyone experienced something similar? Could it be the tanks sealer
is
> >dissolving?
> >
> >I have a QB RV8, 10 months since first flight with 140 hours total.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Steve Glasgow
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Specks in fuel! |
This may not be relevant to your situation but I had a similar problem after
I bought my Grumman back in '93. Dark specks kept showing up throughout the
next year. Inspections of the aux pump and carb filters (no gascolator on
a T-Cat) revealed nothing. Then, a wing drain became clogged. I removed it
(under proper supervision of course) and observed a wad of sticky crud in the
drain valve --- bug stuff. Same on the other side to a lesser degree. I
replaced the drains after tapping them and now have screws installed when
parked --- no problems since.
Bob Trumpfheller
FWF 7A
simple project update page at:
http://users.aol.com/n67bt
<>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Specks in fuel! on zoot.lafn.org |
on zoot.lafn.org
LarryRobertHelming wrote:
>
>Dave: I am not flaming -- Just curious and interested. Your plane has been
>flying for 4 years and has been doing this since day one.
>
>You are seeing bits of stuff but don't really know -- I guess you might be
>suggesting it is proseal ?
>
>Just wondering, did you build your own tanks or where they built by someone
>else?
>
I built them.
>
>If you built them, was anything at all introduced into the tank other than
>proseal?
>
At that time Van's recommended sealing the rear baffle with sloshing
compound so that is a possibility,
>
>Is it possible that the tanks were open to invasion by outsiders such as mud
>dobbers or spiders that might of planted some materials inside the tanks
>prior to them being sealed close?
>
I discounted this because it's not that kind of debris, it looks like
rust flakes which would be a possibility in an older airplane since the
senders are subject to rust.
> Anything other than fuel ever put into
>the tank that you know of?
>
No.
>
>You say none of the bits made it to the filter. Let me ask, Do you have a
>fuel filter or the Vans gascolator? If its the gascolator, when you drain a
>bit from the gascolator do you have the electric fuel pump turned on? Larry
>
No gascolator. I have the AFP filter at the electric pump and have never
found anything other than avgas in it.
I'm going to pull that tank soon to fix a seeping access plate so I may
open it up and have a look. I'll report back.
Dave
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Dave Bristol" <bj034(at)lafn.org>
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Specks in fuel! on zoot.lafn.org
>
>
>
>
>>
>>My -6 has been doing this on the right tank since it was new (2000).
>>It's never been a problem and none has made it to the filter but it is
>>kind of annoying, wondering what it is. It almost has to be sealer since
>>it's there any time I sump the tank. Maybe I should save some and
>>analyze it.
>>
>>Are you seeing it in both tanks?
>>
>>Dave Bristol RV6 SO Cal
>>
>>Steve Glasgow wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>About 6 months ago specks in the fuel started to show up.
>>>
>>>During preflight when the aircraft had set for some time, when I drain
>>>
>>>
>fuel
>
>
>>>from under the wing I find some brown or blackish specks floating in the
>>
>>
>>>fuel. It takes about 6 ounces of draining to clear up the specks. I
>>>
>>>
>don't
>
>
>>>think it is from the fuel truck.
>>>
>>>Has anyone experienced something similar? Could it be the tanks sealer
>>>
>>>
>is
>
>
>>>dissolving?
>>>
>>>I have a QB RV8, 10 months since first flight with 140 hours total.
>>>
>>>Thanks,
>>>Steve Glasgow
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Specks in fuel! on zoot.lafn.org |
on zoot.lafn.org
They sink. Which is another reason I thought it might be rust from the
sending unit. But, if it IS rust then it started VERY quickly on a new
sending unit.
Dave
steve zicree wrote:
>
>This might be a lame idea, but do the bits float or sink in fuel? I don't
>know whether little crumbs of proseal would float or sink, but the fuel
>sender gasket is cork. It could also be something from the sending unit
>itself.
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Dave Bristol" <bj034(at)lafn.org>
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Specks in fuel! on zoot.lafn.org
>
>
>
>
>>
>>My -6 has been doing this on the right tank since it was new (2000).
>>It's never been a problem and none has made it to the filter but it is
>>kind of annoying, wondering what it is. It almost has to be sealer since
>>it's there any time I sump the tank. Maybe I should save some and
>>analyze it.
>>
>>Are you seeing it in both tanks?
>>
>>Dave Bristol RV6 SO Cal
>>
>>Steve Glasgow wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>About 6 months ago specks in the fuel started to show up.
>>>
>>>During preflight when the aircraft had set for some time, when I drain
>>>
>>>
>fuel
>
>
>>>from under the wing I find some brown or blackish specks floating in the
>>
>>
>>>fuel. It takes about 6 ounces of draining to clear up the specks. I
>>>
>>>
>don't
>
>
>>>think it is from the fuel truck.
>>>
>>>Has anyone experienced something similar? Could it be the tanks sealer
>>>
>>>
>is
>
>
>>>dissolving?
>>>
>>>I have a QB RV8, 10 months since first flight with 140 hours total.
>>>
>>>Thanks,
>>>Steve Glasgow
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Fairings |
> I decided not to make my own and ordered a set from Avery (p/n10728 pg 74
in
> catalog $9.00/pr). They are absolute junk. The only item I purchased
from
> Avery that was not top notch. I will return them some day.
>
> I just received a beautiful set from Karen at Aviation Products, in Ojai,
CA
> (ph 805-646-6042) p/n 5387 @$8.95/pr. She shipped them overnight and said
> to send a check when received. Amazing service! Just trim to size,
drill,
> dimple, and rivet. No epoxe filler required on these.
Sounds interesting, do they have a web site where one could get a look?
Randy Lervold
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Specks in fuel! on zoot.lafn.org on zoot.lafn.org |
Rust could be from your fuel source. If you question this, just take a
tractor funnel with the fine mesh screen and run your fuel thru that. You
will be amazed.
Cy Galley
Safety Programs Editor
Always looking for ideas and articles for EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Bristol" <bj034(at)lafn.org>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Specks in fuel! on zoot.lafn.org on zoot.lafn.org
>
> They sink. Which is another reason I thought it might be rust from the
> sending unit. But, if it IS rust then it started VERY quickly on a new
> sending unit.
>
> Dave
>
> steve zicree wrote:
>
> >
> >This might be a lame idea, but do the bits float or sink in fuel? I don't
> >know whether little crumbs of proseal would float or sink, but the fuel
> >sender gasket is cork. It could also be something from the sending unit
> >itself.
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Dave Bristol" <bj034(at)lafn.org>
> >To:
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Specks in fuel! on zoot.lafn.org
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>
> >>My -6 has been doing this on the right tank since it was new (2000).
> >>It's never been a problem and none has made it to the filter but it is
> >>kind of annoying, wondering what it is. It almost has to be sealer since
> >>it's there any time I sump the tank. Maybe I should save some and
> >>analyze it.
> >>
> >>Are you seeing it in both tanks?
> >>
> >>Dave Bristol RV6 SO Cal
> >>
> >>Steve Glasgow wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>>
> >>>About 6 months ago specks in the fuel started to show up.
> >>>
> >>>During preflight when the aircraft had set for some time, when I drain
> >>>
> >>>
> >fuel
> >
> >
> >>>from under the wing I find some brown or blackish specks floating in
the
> >>
> >>
> >>>fuel. It takes about 6 ounces of draining to clear up the specks. I
> >>>
> >>>
> >don't
> >
> >
> >>>think it is from the fuel truck.
> >>>
> >>>Has anyone experienced something similar? Could it be the tanks sealer
> >>>
> >>>
> >is
> >
> >
> >>>dissolving?
> >>>
> >>>I have a QB RV8, 10 months since first flight with 140 hours total.
> >>>
> >>>Thanks,
> >>>Steve Glasgow
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >
September 07, 2004 - September 17, 2004
RV-Archive.digest.vol-pt