RV-List Archive Browser

RV-Archive.digest.vol-pu
September 17, 2004 - September 26, 2004

> > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Garmin manuals available to you
Date: Sep 17, 2004
From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net>
Are you looking for a Garmin user manual? STC? Install doc? Here is a list of the docs they keep in there manuals directory that are part of the .jsp. http://www.garmin.com/manuals/ these files below. So if you are looking for a manual, just search this list (ex. Ctl-f 430) and append the filename to the url above and you will have it. This is not all their docs by any means, many are missing from this list and I have not figured out yet where they keep em, but Ill work on it. Just need to sick the right techno dude on it between product releases. This is a list of what they make available. There is some really old stuff in here, as well as real new. Enjoy, Mike Stewart CNX80IntegratedAvionicsSystem_PilotsGuide.pdf CNX80IntegratedAvionicsSystem_QuickReferenceGuide.pdf CNX80IntegratedAvionicsSystem_CNX80UserNewsletter1.pdf CNX80IntegratedAvionicsSystem_CNX80UserNewsletter2.pdf CNX80IntegratedAvionicsSystem_CNX80UserNewsletter3.pdf CNX80IntegratedAvionicsSystem_CNX80UserNewsletter4.pdf 147_GarminDisplayInterfacesPilotsGuideAddendum.pdf GNC250XL_PilotsGuide.pdf 156_InstallationManual.pdf GNC250XL_ApprovedFlightManualSupplement.pdf GNC300XLTSO_PilotsGuide.pdf GNC300XLTSO_ApprovedFlightManualSupplement.pdf GNC300XLTSO_LBAApprovedFlightManualSupplement.pdf GNC420_PilotsGuide.pdf 140_DisplayInterfacesPilotsGuideAddendum.pdf 141_FDEPilotsGuideAddendum.pdf 147_GarminDisplayInterfacesPilotsGuideAddendum.pdf GNC420_ApprovedFlightManualSupplement.pdf GNC420_QuickReferenceGuide.pdf GNS430_PilotsGuide.pdf 140_DisplayInterfacesPilotsGuideAddendum.pdf 141_FDEPilotsGuideAddendum.pdf 147_GarminDisplayInterfacesPilotsGuideAddendum.pdf GNS430_ApprovedFlightManualSupplement.pdf GNS430_QuickReferenceGuide.pdf GNS430_LBAApprovedFlightManualSupplement.pdf 288_SampleTrainingSyllabus.pdf GNS530_PilotsGuide.pdf 140_DisplayInterfacesPilotsGuideAddendum.pdf 141_FDEPilotsGuideAddendum.pdf 142_TrafficDisplayPilotsGuideAddendum.pdf 147_GarminDisplayInterfacesPilotsGuideAddendum.pdf GNS530_ApprovedFlightManualSupplement.PDF GNS530_QuickReferenceGuide.pdf GNS530_LBAApprovedFlightManualSupplement.pdf 288_SampleTrainingSyllabus.pdf GPS150XL_PilotsGuide.pdf 156_InstallationManual.pdf GPS150XL_ApprovedFlightManualSupplement.pdf GPS155XLTSO_PilotsGuide.pdf GPS155XLTSO_ApprovedFlightManualSupplement.pdf GPS155XLTSO_LBAApprovedFlightManualSupplement.pdf GPS165TSODzusRail_PilotsGuide.pdf 163_PilotsGuideAddendum.pdf GPS165TSODzusRail_ApprovedFlightManualSupplement.pdf GPS400_PilotsGuide.pdf 140_DisplayInterfacesPilotsGuideAddendum.pdf 141_FDEPilotsGuideAddendum.pdf 147_GarminDisplayInterfacesPilotsGuideAddendum.pdf GPS400_ApprovedFlightManualSupplement.pdf GPS400_QuickReferenceGuide.pdf GPS500_PilotsGuide.pdf 140_DisplayInterfacesPilotsGuideAddendum.pdf 141_FDEPilotsGuideAddendum.pdf 142_TrafficDisplayPilotsGuideAddendum.pdf 147_GarminDisplayInterfacesPilotsGuideAddendum.pdf GPS500_ApprovedFlightManualSupplement.pdf GPS500_QuickReferenceGuide.pdf MX20_QuickReferenceGuide.pdf MX20_STCManual.pdf MX20_UserGuide.pdf MX20_MX20AirplaneFlightManualSupplement.pdf GTX320ATransponder_PilotsGuide.pdf 168_InstallationManual.pdf GTX327Transponder_PilotsGuide.pdf 147_GarminDisplayInterfacesPilotsGuideAddendum.pdf GTX330Transponder_PilotsGuide.pdf SL70Transponder_UserGuide.pdf SL70Transponder_TSOLetter.pdf GMA340AudioPanel_PilotsGuide.pdf SL15MAudioPanel_SL15OperationManual.pdf SL15MAudioPanel_SL15-CDandCD15OperationManual.pdf GPS92_PilotsGuide.pdf GPSIIIPilot_PilotsGuide.pdf GPSMAP195_PilotsGuide.pdf GPSMAP196_PilotsGuide.pdf GPSMAP196_QuickStartGuide.pdf 444_FlightBookQuickStartGuide.pdf GPSMAP295_PilotsGuide.pdf GPSMAP295_QuickStartGuide.pdf GPSMAP296_PilotsGuide.pdf 444_FlightBookQuickStartGuide.pdf 461_OwnersManual.pdf 461_OwnersManual.pdf NavTalkPilot_PilotsGuide.pdf NavTalkPilot_InstallationManual_AircraftProvisions_.pdf NavTalkPilot_InstallationManual_CellularAntenna_.pdf SL30Nav_Comm_UserGuide.pdf SL30Nav_Comm_QuickReferenceGuide.pdf SL30Nav_Comm_JTSOLetter.pdf SL30Nav_Comm_TSOLetter.pdf SL40Comm_UserGuide.pdf SL40Comm_STCKit.pdf 2001_2101C129Series_NMC_2001_2101_OperationManual.pdf 2001_2101C129Series_2001-2101ApproachChecklist.pdf 2001_2101C129Series_2001-2101QuickReferenceGuide.pdf 360GPS_QuickReferenceGuide.pdf 360GPS_STCKit.pdf 360GPS_UserGuide.pdf 360GPS_WaypointManagerforWindowsVer4.pdf 360MAP_QuickReferenceGuide.pdf 360MAP_UserGuide.pdf 600SeriesLORAN_604PilotGuide.pdf 600SeriesLORAN_604QuickReference.pdf 600SeriesLORAN_604QuickReferenceGuide.pdf 600SeriesLORAN_612-614P-614RQuickReference.pdf 600SeriesLORAN_612BOperationHandbook.pdf 600SeriesLORAN_618QuickReferenceGuide.pdf 600SeriesLORAN_618UserGuide.pdf 600SeriesLORAN_602OperationManual.pdf 600SeriesLORAN_602QuickReferenceGuide.pdf 800SeriesLORAN_GPS_800PilotsOperatingManual.pdf 800SeriesLORAN_GPS_800QuickReferenceGuide.pdf 800SeriesLORAN_GPS_820PilotsOperatingManual.pdf 800SeriesLORAN_GPS_820QuickReferenceGuide.pdf 900SeriesGPS_920UserGuide.pdf 900SeriesGPS_920QuickStart.pdf 900SeriesGPS_PrecedusUserGuide.pdf 900SeriesGPS_PrecedusQuickReference.pdf 900SeriesGPS_WaypointManagerforWindowsVer4.pdf GNC250GPS_COMM_PilotsGuide.pdf 156_InstallationManual.pdf GNC250GPS_COMM_ApprovedFlightManualSupplement.pdf GNC300TSOGPS_COMM_PilotsGuide.pdf GNC300TSOGPS_COMM_InstallationManual.pdf GNC300TSOGPS_COMM_ApprovedFlightManualSupplement.pdf GPS100AVD_OwnersManual.pdf GPS100AVD_InstallationManual.pdf GPS150_PilotsGuide.pdf GPS150_InstallationManual.pdf GPS155TSO_PilotsGuide.pdf 163_PilotsGuideAddendum.pdf GPS155TSO_InstallationManual.pdf GPS155TSO_ApprovedFlightManualSupplement.pdf GPS55AVD_PilotsGuide.pdf GPS89_PilotsGuide.pdf GPS90_PilotsGuide.pdf GPS95AVD_PilotsGuide.pdf GPS95STD_PilotsGuide.pdf GPS95XL_PilotsGuide.pdf GPSCOM190_PilotsGuide.pdf GTX320Transponder_PilotsGuide.pdf 168_InstallationManual.pdf GX50IFRGPS_QuickReferenceGuide.pdf GX50IFRGPS_GX50TrainingPackage.pdf GX50IFRGPS_UserGuide.pdf GX55IFRGPS_QuickReference.pdf GX55IFRGPS_TrainingPackage.pdf GX55IFRGPS_UserGuide.pdf GX60IFRGPS_COMM_UserGuide.pdf GX60IFRGPS_COMM_QuickReferenceGuide.pdf GX60IFRGPS_COMM_OverflyCancellationLetter.pdf GX65IFRGPS_COMM_UserGuide.pdf GX65IFRGPS_COMM_QuickReference.pdf SL10AudioPanel_UserGuide.pdf SL50_60IFRGPS_SL50QuickReference.pdf SL50_60IFRGPS_SL60QuickReference.pdf SL50_60IFRGPS_UserGuide.pdf SL50_60IFRGPS_WaypointManagerforWindowsVer4.pdf SL50_60IFRGPS_TSOC129InstallationFAAApprovalProcedures.pdf SL50_60IFRGPS_Memo:Cancelsover-flyrequirement.pdf SL50_60IFRGPS_SystemConfigurationIndex.pdf SL50_60IFRGPS_SL50_60MasterDrawingList.pdf SL50_60IFRGPS_SupplementaryAirplaneFlightManual.pdf 82_OwnersManual.pdf 82_OwnersManual.pdf GPS152_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP162_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP172C_OwnersManual.pdf 73_OwnersManual.pdf 74_QuickStartGuide.pdf 75_GPSMAP182_182C_232OwnersManual.pdf 111_GSD20withGarminChartplotters.pdf 41_OwnersManual.pdf 47_GPSMAP2006_2010_GPS17NInstallationGuide.pdf 111_GSD20withGarminChartplotters.pdf 41_OwnersManual.pdf 47_GPSMAP2006_2010_GPS17NInstallationGuide.pdf 111_GSD20withGarminChartplotters.pdf 75_GPSMAP182_182C_232OwnersManual.pdf 111_GSD20withGarminChartplotters.pdf GPSMAP3006C_3010C_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP3006C_3010C_InstallationGuide.pdf GPSMAP168Sounder_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP178CSounder_OwnersManual.pdf 83_GPSMAP188_188C_238OwnersManual.pdf 83_GPSMAP188_188C_238OwnersManual.pdf FishFinder120_Installation_QuickStartGuide.pdf FishFinder240_OwnersManual.pdf 437_OwnersManual.pdf 437_OwnersManual.pdf FishFinder320C_OwnersManual.pdf FishFinder80_Installation_QuickStartGuide.pdf GPS12_OwnersManual.pdf 104_GPS12,12XL,48,80Addendum.pdf GPS12MAP_OwnersManual.pdf GPS12XL_OwnersManual_SoftwareVersion2.00-3.62_.pdf GPS12XL_OwnersManual_SoftwareVersion4.0andabove_.pdf 104_GPS12,12XL,48,80Addendum.pdf GPS72_OwnersManual.pdf GPS72_QuickStartGuide.pdf GPS76_OwnersManual.pdf GPSV_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP175_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP276C_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP60C_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP60CS_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP76_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP76C_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP76CS_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP76S_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP76S_QuickStartGuide.pdf Rino110_OwnersManual.pdf Rino110_QuickStartGuide.pdf Rino120_OwnersManual.pdf Rino120_QuickStartGuide.pdf Rino130_OwnersManual.pdf Rino130_QuickStartGuide.pdf GBR21_OwnersManual.pdf GDL30MarineWeatherSatelliteReceiver_OwnersManual.pdf GMS10NetworkPortExpander_OwnersManual.pdf 47_GPSMAP2006_2010_GPS17NInstallationGuide.pdf 66_GPS16_17NSeriesTechnicalSpecification.pdf GPS17N_QuickStartGuide.pdf GSD20_InstallationGuide.pdf 111_GSD20withGarminChartplotters.pdf Rino110_OwnersManual.pdf Rino110_QuickStartGuide.pdf Rino120_OwnersManual.pdf Rino120_QuickStartGuide.pdf Rino130_OwnersManual.pdf Rino130_QuickStartGuide.pdf VHF720_OwnersManual.pdf VHF725_OwnersManual.pdf VHF725_OwnersManual_EuroVersion_.pdf DGPS53_OwnersManual.pdf FishFinder100_OwnersManual.pdf FishFinder100Blue_OwnersManual.pdf FishFinder160_OwnersManual.pdf FishFinder160Blue_OwnersManual.pdf Fishfinder240Blue_OwnersManual.pdf GBR23_OwnersManual.PDF GPS100STD_OwnersManual.pdf GPS120_OwnersManual.pdf GPS120XL_OwnersManual.pdf GPS125Sounder_OwnersManual.pdf GPS12CX_OwnersManual.pdf GPS45_OwnersManual.pdf GPS45XL_OwnersManual.pdf 104_GPS12,12XL,48,80Addendum.pdf GPS48_OwnersManual.pdf GPS50_OwnersManual.pdf GPS65_OwnersManual.PDF GPS75_OwnersManual.pdf GPSII_OwnersManual.pdf GPSIIPlus_OwnersManual_SoftwareVersion2.00-2.11_.pdf GPSIIPlus_OwnersManual_SoftwareVersion3.0andabove_.pdf GPSIIPlus_QuickStartGuide.pdf GPSIII_OwnersManual.pdf GPSIIIPlus_OwnersManual.pdf GPSIIIPlus_PlusFeaturesAddendum.pdf GPSCOM170_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP130_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP135Sounder_OwnersManual.pdf 73_OwnersManual.pdf 74_QuickStartGuide.pdf GPSMAP180_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP185Sounder_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP200_OwnersManual.pdf 130_OwnersManual.pdf 80_OwnersManual.pdf 130_OwnersManual.pdf 80_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP230_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP235Sounder_OwnersManual.pdf 130_OwnersManual.pdf eTrex_OwnersManual.pdf eTrexCamo_OwnersManual.pdf eTrexSummit_OwnersManual.pdf eTrexVenture_OwnersManual.pdf Forerunner101_OwnersManual.pdf Forerunner201_OwnersManual.pdf Foretrex101_OwnersManual.pdf Foretrex201_OwnersManual.pdf Geko101_OwnersManual.pdf Geko201_OwnersManual.pdf Geko301_OwnersManual.pdf GPS12_OwnersManual.pdf 104_GPS12,12XL,48,80Addendum.pdf GPS12XL_OwnersManual_SoftwareVersion2.00-3.62_.pdf GPS12XL_OwnersManual_SoftwareVersion4.0andabove_.pdf 104_GPS12,12XL,48,80Addendum.pdf GPS72_OwnersManual.pdf GPS72_QuickStartGuide.pdf GPS76_OwnersManual.pdf eTrexLegend_OwnersManual.pdf eTrexLegendC_OwnersManual.pdf eTrexVenture_OwnersManual.pdf eTrexVista_OwnersManual.pdf eTrexVista_Jumpmaster.pdf eTrexVistaC_OwnersManual.pdf GPS12MAP_OwnersManual.pdf GPSV_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP276C_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP60C_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP60CS_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP76_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP76C_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP76CS_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP76S_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP76S_QuickStartGuide.pdf Rino110_OwnersManual.pdf Rino110_QuickStartGuide.pdf Rino120_OwnersManual.pdf Rino120_QuickStartGuide.pdf Rino130_OwnersManual.pdf Rino130_QuickStartGuide.pdf FishFinder120_Installation_QuickStartGuide.pdf FishFinder240_OwnersManual.pdf 437_OwnersManual.pdf 437_OwnersManual.pdf FishFinder320C_OwnersManual.pdf FishFinder80_Installation_QuickStartGuide.pdf Rino110_OwnersManual.pdf Rino110_QuickStartGuide.pdf Rino120_OwnersManual.pdf Rino120_QuickStartGuide.pdf Rino130_OwnersManual.pdf Rino130_QuickStartGuide.pdf FishFinder100_OwnersManual.pdf FishFinder100Blue_OwnersManual.pdf FishFinder160_OwnersManual.pdf FishFinder160Blue_OwnersManual.pdf Fishfinder240Blue_OwnersManual.pdf GPS12CX_OwnersManual.pdf GPS38_OwnersManual.pdf GPS40_OwnersManual.pdf 104_GPS12,12XL,48,80Addendum.pdf GPS48_OwnersManual.pdf GPS50_OwnersManual.pdf GPS75_OwnersManual.pdf GPSII_OwnersManual.pdf GPSIIPlus_OwnersManual_SoftwareVersion2.00-2.11_.pdf GPSIIPlus_OwnersManual_SoftwareVersion3.0andabove_.pdf GPSIIPlus_QuickStartGuide.pdf GPSIII_OwnersManual.pdf GPSIIIPlus_OwnersManual.pdf GPSIIIPlus_PlusFeaturesAddendum.pdf GPS12MAP_OwnersManual.pdf GPSIIIPlus_OwnersManual.pdf GPSIIIPlus_PlusFeaturesAddendum.pdf GPSV_OwnersManual.pdf NavTalkGSM_OwnersManual.pdf NavTalkGSM_ATCommandInterfaceSupplement.pdf Quest_OwnersManual.pdf StreetPilot2610GPS_OwnersManual.pdf 439_OwnersManual.pdf StreetPilot2650GPS_OwnersManual.pdf 439_OwnersManual.pdf StreetPilotGPS_OwnersManual.pdf StreetPilotGPS_AtlanticUsersManual.pdf StreetPilotGPSColorMap_Ownersmanual.pdf StreetPilotGPSColorMap_AtlanticOwnersManual.pdf StreetPilotIIIGPS_OwnersManual.pdf StreetPilotIIIGPS_QuickStartGuide.pdf 45_USBDataCardProgrammer.pdf cfQue1620_QuickStartGuide.pdf cfQue1620_ApplicationsGuide.pdf eMap_OwnersManual.pdf GPS12MAP_OwnersManual.pdf GPSIIIPlus_OwnersManual.pdf GPSIIIPlus_PlusFeaturesAddendum.pdf GPSV_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP60C_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP60CS_OwnersManual.pdf iQue3200_OperatingInstructions.pdf iQue3200_QueApplicationsGuide.pdf iQue3600_OperatingInstructions.pdf iQue3600_QueApplicationsGuide.pdf Rino110_OwnersManual.pdf Rino110_QuickStartGuide.pdf Rino120_OwnersManual.pdf Rino120_QuickStartGuide.pdf Rino130_OwnersManual.pdf Rino130_QuickStartGuide.pdf GPSIII_OwnersManual.pdf NavTalk_OwnersManual.pdf 45_USBDataCardProgrammer.pdf MapSource_BlueChartUsersGuide.pdf MapSource_MapSourceUsersGuide.pdf 66_GPS16_17NSeriesTechnicalSpecification.pdf 68_QuickStartGuide.pdf 66_GPS16_17NSeriesTechnicalSpecification.pdf 68_QuickStartGuide.pdf 47_GPSMAP2006_2010_GPS17NInstallationGuide.pdf 66_GPS16_17NSeriesTechnicalSpecification.pdf GPS17N_QuickStartGuide.pdf GPS18_TechnicalSpecification.pdf GPS35LPSeries_TechnicalSpecification.pdf GPS35LPSeries_GPS35USBQuickStartGuide.pdf GPS35LPSeries_GPS35PCQuickStartGuide.pdf GPS36TracPak_TechnicalSpecification.pdf GPS15_TechnicalSpecification.pdf 237_TechnicalSpecifications.pdf 237_TechnicalSpecifications.pdf GPS25LPSeries_TechnicalSpecification.pdf GPS31TracPak_TechnicalSpecification.pdf GPSGuideforBeginners_Manual.pdf IntroductiontoGeocaching_Manual.pdf JeppesenUpdateInstructions_Manual.pdf LoranTDPositionHandbook_Manual.pdf PCX5_OwnersManual.pdf UsingaGarminGPSwithPaperLandMaps_Manual.pdf ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com>
Subject: Re: C Frame dimpler
Date: Sep 17, 2004
----- Original Message ----- From: <dfiggins(at)es.com> Subject: RV-List: C Frame dimpler > > After reading some reviews on the web for the lever action C-frame > dimpler (cool but expensive) has anyone ever modified a regular C-frame > dimpler to add a lever to the top to operate the plunger? The company that makes the lever action C-frame will sell just the mechanism. You'll have to check with them to see if the regular c-frame dimpler is robust enough to attach it to. Check the archives for info on pneumatic c-frame dimpler modifications. Several guys have done it and I believe Terry Jantzi is one of them. His website doesn't seem to be up any more, but you can contact him on his iwannarocket tailwheel site and I'm sure he would be happy to offer information on how he did it. Good luck ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 17, 2004
From: Chris W <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: C Frame dimpler
dfiggins(at)es.com wrote: > >After reading some reviews on the web for the lever action C-frame >dimpler (cool but expensive) has anyone ever modified a regular C-frame >dimpler to add a lever to the top to operate the plunger or better yet >designed a clamp that would allow the plunger to be operated by the yoke >of a pneumatic squeezer. > You may have noticed that the lever action C-frame dimpler you are referring to is massive compared to the ones you use with a hammer. This isn't by accident. The amount of force required to create a dimple would bend the standard C-frame tool long before you got a dimple. The standard tool is not designed to handle any force, it is just there as a guide to hold the dies in place. Your hammer is what exerts all the force needed to create the dimple, well the hammer and your workbench. -- Chris W Bring Back the HP 15C http://hp15c.org Not getting the gifts you want? The Wish Zone can help. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 17, 2004
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Slobovia Outernational Flyin Invitation
If you can make it to central Mississippi on Oct. 16, I'd like to invite you to Slobovia Outernational's fall flyin just north of Jackson MS. The fun starts at 10:00 AM & lunch will be served at noon. You are welcome to overnight either Friday or Saturday. Just email or call so we can plan for supper/breakfast, throw a bedroll in the plane/car & 'come on down'. No formal programs are scheduled, just lots of airplane rides, food & 'homebuilt conversation'. Info on our airport can be found at http://www.airnav.com/airport/MS71 FAA Identifier: MS71 Lat/Long: 32-29-42.508N / 090-17-34.325W 32-29.70847N / 090-17.57208W 32.4951411 / -90.2928681 UNICOM: 122.75 Disclaimer: Slobovia is a private airport. Pilots operate at their own risk. Please be alert for both very slow & very high speed aircraft around the airport; we are an 'equal opportunity airport'. If you need driving directions or more info, feel free to email me at ceengland(at)bellsouth.net or call at 601-879-9596. Ya'll come! Charlie ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us>
"'owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com '"(at)matronics.com
Subject: INS 422
Date: Sep 18, 2004
This unit has about 500 hours in my airplane with the bob archer vor wingtip antennas. Not quite the range of the GNS430 but works OK. Only two features I don't like is some issues with bright sunlight, and the lack of an OBS spin wheel with headings is somewhat challenging for oreintation on a hold entry if you are very visual in your thinking process. As a second to the Garmin though its very nice because it will give a digital radial value for the cross fix. W ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WFACT01(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 18, 2004
Subject: FAILED MAIN LANDING GEAR RV-8
We just removed two bent landing gears from my recently completed RV-8. No, it was not a hard landing. It was because I was sent a pair of unhardened gear legs as part of my original kit. I don't know how many others are out there like this, but this is one of the earlier kits, serial #80013. The C-hardness test on the bent gear was 11. It was supposed to be C-42 to 44. If it doesn't look right on your airplane, it probably isn't. The good part is we caught it before we had any damage. The bad part is it could have wiped out the whole airplane. New gears have been installed and it is ready to go again. Performance is unbelievable. Regards, Tom. Tom Whelan Whelan Farms Airport President EAA Chapter 1097 wfact01(at)aol.com 249 Hard Hill Road North PO Box 426 Bethlehem, CT 06751 Tel: 203-266-5300 Fax: 202-266-5140 EAA Technical/Flight Advisor RV-8 540 LYC (Just Flew, Look Out!) S-51 Mustang Turbine (Under Construction) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 18, 2004
From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: Lower empennage fairings
I'm looking at the lower empennage fairings, and can't quite figure out how the rubber seal goes on. Is the rubber seal different for the root wing fairings and the empennage fairings? I have only one type. The picture in the plans look like a "fillet" type rubber seal. Any hints appreciated! Thanks, Mickey -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dean Pichon" <DeanPichon(at)msn.com>
Subject: Specks in fuel!
Date: Sep 18, 2004
I periodically find the same "stuff" in fuel drained from either wing tank. After I first found the material you describe, I captured the particulate in a filter made of cloth. I looked at it under a magnifying lens and crushed it between my fingers. I believe it is mineral (not metal or sealant) and is most likely from bugs. It appears to occur only in the drain and is not actually in the fuel tank. For unrelated reasons, I have drained my tanks several times and have filter the fuel in both directions (draining and replacing) and never found any foreign material. I have an AFP filter that is always pristine when I check it at annual. Don't worry about your ProSeal - it has a long and distinguished career in many areas of aerospace. Dean RV-4 225 hours -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Glasgow Subject: RV-List: Specks in fuel! About 6 months ago specks in the fuel started to show up. During preflight when the aircraft had set for some time, when I drain fuel from under the wing I find some brown or blackish specks floating in the fuel. It takes about 6 ounces of draining to clear up the specks. I don't think it is from the fuel truck. Has anyone experienced something similar? Could it be the tanks sealer is dissolving? I have a QB RV8, 10 months since first flight with 140 hours total. Thanks, Steve Glasgow = direct advertising on the Matronics Forums. = = = ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 18, 2004
From: richard dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net>
Subject: Re: Lower empennage fairings
Hi Mickey, On the RV-6/A, the seal/gasket for the lower side of the HS is the same shape as the wing fairing seal (it is the same cross-section). The "slot" fits over the aluminum sheet fairing and the "blade" fits against the lower side of the HS with the blade slightly bent against the HS. Hope this helps. Richard Dudley -6A painted and about ready to move to the airport Mickey Coggins wrote: > >I'm looking at the lower empennage fairings, and >can't quite figure out how the rubber seal goes >on. Is the rubber seal different for the root >wing fairings and the empennage fairings? I have >only one type. The picture in the plans look like >a "fillet" type rubber seal. Any hints appreciated! > >Thanks, >Mickey > >-- >Mickey Coggins >http://www.rv8.ch/ >#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Are Barstad" <are_barstad(at)norlogic.com>
Subject: RV-8 empennage, wings and tools for sale - Milton, Ontario Canada
Date: Sep 18, 2004
All, I have been offered and have accepted a position in Norway where I will be working as head of IT for a large oil exploration company. This is a great opportunity and too good to pass up. They want me over there pronto and so I will start the job already on October 18th. My tools will not work there since everything is 220/50hz. It is also very tough to get a moving company to take the wings and empennage. Wings are 80% complete but not covered yet. One of the wings have one side covered. One fuel tank (w/capacitive senders) is done and leak tested. The other tank is ready for sealing. Landing lights have been fitted in the leading edge. Empennage is inspected and closed. I have the inspection papers. Ailerons needs to be built. Flaps needs to be built. The wings comes in a cradle. I also have a TSO'd altimeter w/light, VSI w/light and compass w/light. I have a heated pitot/static tube from Gretch Aero. Tools: 13" drill press - 250-3100 rpm - $90cdn 5 hp/20g Air compressor - $300cdn Band saw (small - $40 takes it) bench grinder with scotchbrite wheel - $25cdn bench belt sander - $25cdn Plus: I have absolutely everything else including torque wrench - pneumatic squeezer, drill press, rivet gun, 37.5 deg. flare tool, compressor etc. I have several bucking bars (all you need) and all rivet sets you need. All aircraft specific tools are mostly Avery but some from Cleaveland Everything must be sold and picked up by October 12 so it will no doubt be a steal for whoever buys it. You can e-mail me at are_barstad(at)manulife.com or call me at 416-460-5141 (cell). I can sell parts (i.e. tools separately) but all aircraft parts must go as one lot. Wings and empennage will go for US$2900 (~$3750 cdn) I do not have the ability or time to ship items unless it's a larger tool collection. Are Barstad --- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 18, 2004
From: Gert <gert(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: RV-8 empennage, wings and tools for sale - Milton, Ontario
Canada Are your stuff will work, as a former world traveler having spend considerable time in Scandinavia all you need is a good transformer. 50 hz vs. 60 hz, is not really a problem for about all your electric tools. Just get a transformer. I have quite a few 50 hz tools from europe hooked up to either a transformer or plugged into the 240 outlet over here. I used transformers over in Japan to go from 100 to 220. About the only problem I ever had was when I moved from america to japan and did not buy a transformer for my TV. Japan is 100v and my TV appeared to work but died after about 10 months. problems with the flyback system I was told. Are Barstad wrote: > > All, > > I have been offered and have accepted a position in Norway where I will be > working as head of IT for a large oil exploration company. This is a great > opportunity and too good to pass up. They want me over there pronto and so I > will start the job already on October 18th. > > My tools will not work there since everything is 220/50hz. It is also very > tough to get a moving company to take the wings and empennage. > > Wings are 80% complete but not covered yet. One of the wings have one side > covered. One fuel tank (w/capacitive senders) is done and leak tested. The > other tank is ready for sealing. Landing lights have been fitted in the > leading edge. Empennage is inspected and closed. I have the inspection > papers. Ailerons needs to be built. Flaps needs to be built. > > The wings comes in a cradle. > > I also have a TSO'd altimeter w/light, VSI w/light and compass w/light. I > have a heated pitot/static tube from Gretch Aero. > > Tools: > > 13" drill press - 250-3100 rpm - $90cdn > 5 hp/20g Air compressor - $300cdn > Band saw (small - $40 takes it) > bench grinder with scotchbrite wheel - $25cdn > bench belt sander - $25cdn > > Plus: I have absolutely everything else including torque wrench - pneumatic > squeezer, drill press, rivet gun, 37.5 deg. flare tool, compressor etc. I > have several bucking bars (all you need) and all rivet sets you need. > > All aircraft specific tools are mostly Avery but some from Cleaveland > > Everything must be sold and picked up by October 12 so it will no doubt be a > steal for whoever buys it. > > You can e-mail me at are_barstad(at)manulife.com or call me at 416-460-5141 > (cell). > > I can sell parts (i.e. tools separately) but all aircraft parts must go as > one lot. > > Wings and empennage will go for US$2900 (~$3750 cdn) > > I do not have the ability or time to ship items unless it's a larger tool > collection. > > Are Barstad > --- > > > > > > > -- is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 18, 2004
From: "R. Craig Chipley" <mechtech81(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-8 empennage, wings and tools for sale - Milton, Ontario
Canada Are, Any Offers yet? I am VERY interested and have money. Please call Sunday if possible Cell 636 578-1229 Craig Chipley. Thanks!! --- Are Barstad wrote: > > > All, > > I have been offered and have accepted a position in > Norway where I will be > working as head of IT for a large oil exploration > company. This is a great > opportunity and too good to pass up. They want me > over there pronto and so I > will start the job already on October 18th. > > My tools will not work there since everything is > 220/50hz. It is also very > tough to get a moving company to take the wings and > empennage. > > Wings are 80% complete but not covered yet. One of > the wings have one side > covered. One fuel tank (w/capacitive senders) is > done and leak tested. The > other tank is ready for sealing. Landing lights have > been fitted in the > leading edge. Empennage is inspected and closed. I > have the inspection > papers. Ailerons needs to be built. Flaps needs to > be built. > > The wings comes in a cradle. > > I also have a TSO'd altimeter w/light, VSI w/light > and compass w/light. I > have a heated pitot/static tube from Gretch Aero. > > Tools: > > 13" drill press - 250-3100 rpm - $90cdn > 5 hp/20g Air compressor - $300cdn > Band saw (small - $40 takes it) > bench grinder with scotchbrite wheel - $25cdn > bench belt sander - $25cdn > > Plus: I have absolutely everything else including > torque wrench - pneumatic > squeezer, drill press, rivet gun, 37.5 deg. flare > tool, compressor etc. I > have several bucking bars (all you need) and all > rivet sets you need. > > All aircraft specific tools are mostly Avery but > some from Cleaveland > > Everything must be sold and picked up by October 12 > so it will no doubt be a > steal for whoever buys it. > > You can e-mail me at are_barstad(at)manulife.com or > call me at 416-460-5141 > (cell). > > I can sell parts (i.e. tools separately) but all > aircraft parts must go as > one lot. > > Wings and empennage will go for US$2900 (~$3750 cdn) > > I do not have the ability or time to ship items > unless it's a larger tool > collection. > > Are Barstad > --- > > > > Contributions > any other > Forums. > > http://www.matronics.com/chat > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > > > > > __________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: more Garmin Appolo Manual Downloads
Date: Sep 19, 2004
From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net>
Here are some more(added the first few here below) manuals popular found by JB. You will notice by looking at the file names and using the scheme, that you can find just about anything you are looking for. Some file names are not intuitive like GPS165TSODzusRail_PilotsGuide.pdf. Ill try and work on getting the entire directory of everything possible. But for now, this is a really good list. Old and new, popular in junk. Its in there. STC, pilot Guide, Supplemental Flight Manual, Quick Reference Guide, Pilots Guide, Installation Manual, Training Syllabus, all kinds of very useful stuff in there. Just think about how many times you have wanted a manual and could not find it. Especially installation manuals which they seem to keep tight reign on. I ran a job from the office to get all of these, yes every one, so Ill keep them somewhere just in case they disappear. Another fella did that right before they took the appolo site down. I got a file from him like sl40_install_560-0956-03a.pdf. I mean how would you ever figure out that filename? So I hope to have these stashed just in case GArmin gets hit by a bus. http://www.garmin.com/manuals/ these files below. So if you are looking for a manual, just search this list (ex. Ctl-f 430) and append the filename to the url above and you will have it. Enjoy, Mike Stewart MX20_InstallationManual.pdf SL30Nav_Comm_InstallationManual.pdf SL40Comm_InstallationManual.pdf SL50_60IFRGPS_InstallationManual.pdf GX60IFRGPS_COMM_InstallationManual.pdf SL70Transponder_InstallationManual.pdf CNX80IntegratedAvionicsSystem_InstallationManual.pdf GTX327Transponder_InstallationManual.pdf GTX330Transponder_InstallationManual.pdf 143_InstallationManual.pdf (GPS 400 GNC 420 GNS 430 Series) CNX80IntegratedAvionicsSystem_PilotsGuide.pdf CNX80IntegratedAvionicsSystem_QuickReferenceGuide.pdf CNX80IntegratedAvionicsSystem_CNX80UserNewsletter1.pdf CNX80IntegratedAvionicsSystem_CNX80UserNewsletter2.pdf CNX80IntegratedAvionicsSystem_CNX80UserNewsletter3.pdf CNX80IntegratedAvionicsSystem_CNX80UserNewsletter4.pdf 147_GarminDisplayInterfacesPilotsGuideAddendum.pdf GNC250XL_PilotsGuide.pdf 156_InstallationManual.pdf GNC250XL_ApprovedFlightManualSupplement.pdf GNC300XLTSO_PilotsGuide.pdf GNC300XLTSO_ApprovedFlightManualSupplement.pdf GNC300XLTSO_LBAApprovedFlightManualSupplement.pdf GNC420_PilotsGuide.pdf 140_DisplayInterfacesPilotsGuideAddendum.pdf 141_FDEPilotsGuideAddendum.pdf 147_GarminDisplayInterfacesPilotsGuideAddendum.pdf GNC420_ApprovedFlightManualSupplement.pdf GNC420_QuickReferenceGuide.pdf GNS430_PilotsGuide.pdf 140_DisplayInterfacesPilotsGuideAddendum.pdf 141_FDEPilotsGuideAddendum.pdf 147_GarminDisplayInterfacesPilotsGuideAddendum.pdf GNS430_ApprovedFlightManualSupplement.pdf GNS430_QuickReferenceGuide.pdf GNS430_LBAApprovedFlightManualSupplement.pdf 288_SampleTrainingSyllabus.pdf GNS530_PilotsGuide.pdf 140_DisplayInterfacesPilotsGuideAddendum.pdf 141_FDEPilotsGuideAddendum.pdf 142_TrafficDisplayPilotsGuideAddendum.pdf 147_GarminDisplayInterfacesPilotsGuideAddendum.pdf GNS530_ApprovedFlightManualSupplement.PDF GNS530_QuickReferenceGuide.pdf GNS530_LBAApprovedFlightManualSupplement.pdf 288_SampleTrainingSyllabus.pdf GPS150XL_PilotsGuide.pdf 156_InstallationManual.pdf GPS150XL_ApprovedFlightManualSupplement.pdf GPS155XLTSO_PilotsGuide.pdf GPS155XLTSO_ApprovedFlightManualSupplement.pdf GPS155XLTSO_LBAApprovedFlightManualSupplement.pdf GPS165TSODzusRail_PilotsGuide.pdf 163_PilotsGuideAddendum.pdf GPS165TSODzusRail_ApprovedFlightManualSupplement.pdf GPS400_PilotsGuide.pdf 140_DisplayInterfacesPilotsGuideAddendum.pdf 141_FDEPilotsGuideAddendum.pdf 147_GarminDisplayInterfacesPilotsGuideAddendum.pdf GPS400_ApprovedFlightManualSupplement.pdf GPS400_QuickReferenceGuide.pdf GPS500_PilotsGuide.pdf 140_DisplayInterfacesPilotsGuideAddendum.pdf 141_FDEPilotsGuideAddendum.pdf 142_TrafficDisplayPilotsGuideAddendum.pdf 147_GarminDisplayInterfacesPilotsGuideAddendum.pdf GPS500_ApprovedFlightManualSupplement.pdf GPS500_QuickReferenceGuide.pdf MX20_QuickReferenceGuide.pdf MX20_STCManual.pdf MX20_UserGuide.pdf MX20_MX20AirplaneFlightManualSupplement.pdf GTX320ATransponder_PilotsGuide.pdf 168_InstallationManual.pdf GTX327Transponder_PilotsGuide.pdf 147_GarminDisplayInterfacesPilotsGuideAddendum.pdf GTX330Transponder_PilotsGuide.pdf SL70Transponder_UserGuide.pdf SL70Transponder_TSOLetter.pdf GMA340AudioPanel_PilotsGuide.pdf SL15MAudioPanel_SL15OperationManual.pdf SL15MAudioPanel_SL15-CDandCD15OperationManual.pdf GPS92_PilotsGuide.pdf GPSIIIPilot_PilotsGuide.pdf GPSMAP195_PilotsGuide.pdf GPSMAP196_PilotsGuide.pdf GPSMAP196_QuickStartGuide.pdf 444_FlightBookQuickStartGuide.pdf GPSMAP295_PilotsGuide.pdf GPSMAP295_QuickStartGuide.pdf GPSMAP296_PilotsGuide.pdf 444_FlightBookQuickStartGuide.pdf 461_OwnersManual.pdf 461_OwnersManual.pdf NavTalkPilot_PilotsGuide.pdf NavTalkPilot_InstallationManual_AircraftProvisions_.pdf NavTalkPilot_InstallationManual_CellularAntenna_.pdf SL30Nav_Comm_UserGuide.pdf SL30Nav_Comm_QuickReferenceGuide.pdf SL30Nav_Comm_JTSOLetter.pdf SL30Nav_Comm_TSOLetter.pdf SL40Comm_UserGuide.pdf SL40Comm_STCKit.pdf 2001_2101C129Series_NMC_2001_2101_OperationManual.pdf 2001_2101C129Series_2001-2101ApproachChecklist.pdf 2001_2101C129Series_2001-2101QuickReferenceGuide.pdf 360GPS_QuickReferenceGuide.pdf 360GPS_STCKit.pdf 360GPS_UserGuide.pdf 360GPS_WaypointManagerforWindowsVer4.pdf 360MAP_QuickReferenceGuide.pdf 360MAP_UserGuide.pdf 600SeriesLORAN_604PilotGuide.pdf 600SeriesLORAN_604QuickReference.pdf 600SeriesLORAN_604QuickReferenceGuide.pdf 600SeriesLORAN_612-614P-614RQuickReference.pdf 600SeriesLORAN_612BOperationHandbook.pdf 600SeriesLORAN_618QuickReferenceGuide.pdf 600SeriesLORAN_618UserGuide.pdf 600SeriesLORAN_602OperationManual.pdf 600SeriesLORAN_602QuickReferenceGuide.pdf 800SeriesLORAN_GPS_800PilotsOperatingManual.pdf 800SeriesLORAN_GPS_800QuickReferenceGuide.pdf 800SeriesLORAN_GPS_820PilotsOperatingManual.pdf 800SeriesLORAN_GPS_820QuickReferenceGuide.pdf 900SeriesGPS_920UserGuide.pdf 900SeriesGPS_920QuickStart.pdf 900SeriesGPS_PrecedusUserGuide.pdf 900SeriesGPS_PrecedusQuickReference.pdf 900SeriesGPS_WaypointManagerforWindowsVer4.pdf GNC250GPS_COMM_PilotsGuide.pdf 156_InstallationManual.pdf GNC250GPS_COMM_ApprovedFlightManualSupplement.pdf GNC300TSOGPS_COMM_PilotsGuide.pdf GNC300TSOGPS_COMM_InstallationManual.pdf GNC300TSOGPS_COMM_ApprovedFlightManualSupplement.pdf GPS100AVD_OwnersManual.pdf GPS100AVD_InstallationManual.pdf GPS150_PilotsGuide.pdf GPS150_InstallationManual.pdf GPS155TSO_PilotsGuide.pdf 163_PilotsGuideAddendum.pdf GPS155TSO_InstallationManual.pdf GPS155TSO_ApprovedFlightManualSupplement.pdf GPS55AVD_PilotsGuide.pdf GPS89_PilotsGuide.pdf GPS90_PilotsGuide.pdf GPS95AVD_PilotsGuide.pdf GPS95STD_PilotsGuide.pdf GPS95XL_PilotsGuide.pdf GPSCOM190_PilotsGuide.pdf GTX320Transponder_PilotsGuide.pdf 168_InstallationManual.pdf GX50IFRGPS_QuickReferenceGuide.pdf GX50IFRGPS_GX50TrainingPackage.pdf GX50IFRGPS_UserGuide.pdf GX55IFRGPS_QuickReference.pdf GX55IFRGPS_TrainingPackage.pdf GX55IFRGPS_UserGuide.pdf GX60IFRGPS_COMM_UserGuide.pdf GX60IFRGPS_COMM_QuickReferenceGuide.pdf GX60IFRGPS_COMM_OverflyCancellationLetter.pdf GX65IFRGPS_COMM_UserGuide.pdf GX65IFRGPS_COMM_QuickReference.pdf SL10AudioPanel_UserGuide.pdf SL50_60IFRGPS_SL50QuickReference.pdf SL50_60IFRGPS_SL60QuickReference.pdf SL50_60IFRGPS_UserGuide.pdf SL50_60IFRGPS_WaypointManagerforWindowsVer4.pdf SL50_60IFRGPS_TSOC129InstallationFAAApprovalProcedures.pdf SL50_60IFRGPS_Memo:Cancelsover-flyrequirement.pdf SL50_60IFRGPS_SystemConfigurationIndex.pdf SL50_60IFRGPS_SL50_60MasterDrawingList.pdf SL50_60IFRGPS_SupplementaryAirplaneFlightManual.pdf 82_OwnersManual.pdf 82_OwnersManual.pdf GPS152_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP162_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP172C_OwnersManual.pdf 73_OwnersManual.pdf 74_QuickStartGuide.pdf 75_GPSMAP182_182C_232OwnersManual.pdf 111_GSD20withGarminChartplotters.pdf 41_OwnersManual.pdf 47_GPSMAP2006_2010_GPS17NInstallationGuide.pdf 111_GSD20withGarminChartplotters.pdf 41_OwnersManual.pdf 47_GPSMAP2006_2010_GPS17NInstallationGuide.pdf 111_GSD20withGarminChartplotters.pdf 75_GPSMAP182_182C_232OwnersManual.pdf 111_GSD20withGarminChartplotters.pdf GPSMAP3006C_3010C_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP3006C_3010C_InstallationGuide.pdf GPSMAP168Sounder_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP178CSounder_OwnersManual.pdf 83_GPSMAP188_188C_238OwnersManual.pdf 83_GPSMAP188_188C_238OwnersManual.pdf FishFinder120_Installation_QuickStartGuide.pdf FishFinder240_OwnersManual.pdf 437_OwnersManual.pdf 437_OwnersManual.pdf FishFinder320C_OwnersManual.pdf FishFinder80_Installation_QuickStartGuide.pdf GPS12_OwnersManual.pdf 104_GPS12,12XL,48,80Addendum.pdf GPS12MAP_OwnersManual.pdf GPS12XL_OwnersManual_SoftwareVersion2.00-3.62_.pdf GPS12XL_OwnersManual_SoftwareVersion4.0andabove_.pdf 104_GPS12,12XL,48,80Addendum.pdf GPS72_OwnersManual.pdf GPS72_QuickStartGuide.pdf GPS76_OwnersManual.pdf GPSV_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP175_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP276C_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP60C_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP60CS_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP76_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP76C_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP76CS_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP76S_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP76S_QuickStartGuide.pdf Rino110_OwnersManual.pdf Rino110_QuickStartGuide.pdf Rino120_OwnersManual.pdf Rino120_QuickStartGuide.pdf Rino130_OwnersManual.pdf Rino130_QuickStartGuide.pdf GBR21_OwnersManual.pdf GDL30MarineWeatherSatelliteReceiver_OwnersManual.pdf GMS10NetworkPortExpander_OwnersManual.pdf 47_GPSMAP2006_2010_GPS17NInstallationGuide.pdf 66_GPS16_17NSeriesTechnicalSpecification.pdf GPS17N_QuickStartGuide.pdf GSD20_InstallationGuide.pdf 111_GSD20withGarminChartplotters.pdf Rino110_OwnersManual.pdf Rino110_QuickStartGuide.pdf Rino120_OwnersManual.pdf Rino120_QuickStartGuide.pdf Rino130_OwnersManual.pdf Rino130_QuickStartGuide.pdf VHF720_OwnersManual.pdf VHF725_OwnersManual.pdf VHF725_OwnersManual_EuroVersion_.pdf DGPS53_OwnersManual.pdf FishFinder100_OwnersManual.pdf FishFinder100Blue_OwnersManual.pdf FishFinder160_OwnersManual.pdf FishFinder160Blue_OwnersManual.pdf Fishfinder240Blue_OwnersManual.pdf GBR23_OwnersManual.PDF GPS100STD_OwnersManual.pdf GPS120_OwnersManual.pdf GPS120XL_OwnersManual.pdf GPS125Sounder_OwnersManual.pdf GPS12CX_OwnersManual.pdf GPS45_OwnersManual.pdf GPS45XL_OwnersManual.pdf 104_GPS12,12XL,48,80Addendum.pdf GPS48_OwnersManual.pdf GPS50_OwnersManual.pdf GPS65_OwnersManual.PDF GPS75_OwnersManual.pdf GPSII_OwnersManual.pdf GPSIIPlus_OwnersManual_SoftwareVersion2.00-2.11_.pdf GPSIIPlus_OwnersManual_SoftwareVersion3.0andabove_.pdf GPSIIPlus_QuickStartGuide.pdf GPSIII_OwnersManual.pdf GPSIIIPlus_OwnersManual.pdf GPSIIIPlus_PlusFeaturesAddendum.pdf GPSCOM170_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP130_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP135Sounder_OwnersManual.pdf 73_OwnersManual.pdf 74_QuickStartGuide.pdf GPSMAP180_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP185Sounder_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP200_OwnersManual.pdf 130_OwnersManual.pdf 80_OwnersManual.pdf 130_OwnersManual.pdf 80_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP230_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP235Sounder_OwnersManual.pdf 130_OwnersManual.pdf eTrex_OwnersManual.pdf eTrexCamo_OwnersManual.pdf eTrexSummit_OwnersManual.pdf eTrexVenture_OwnersManual.pdf Forerunner101_OwnersManual.pdf Forerunner201_OwnersManual.pdf Foretrex101_OwnersManual.pdf Foretrex201_OwnersManual.pdf Geko101_OwnersManual.pdf Geko201_OwnersManual.pdf Geko301_OwnersManual.pdf GPS12_OwnersManual.pdf 104_GPS12,12XL,48,80Addendum.pdf GPS12XL_OwnersManual_SoftwareVersion2.00-3.62_.pdf GPS12XL_OwnersManual_SoftwareVersion4.0andabove_.pdf 104_GPS12,12XL,48,80Addendum.pdf GPS72_OwnersManual.pdf GPS72_QuickStartGuide.pdf GPS76_OwnersManual.pdf eTrexLegend_OwnersManual.pdf eTrexLegendC_OwnersManual.pdf eTrexVenture_OwnersManual.pdf eTrexVista_OwnersManual.pdf eTrexVista_Jumpmaster.pdf eTrexVistaC_OwnersManual.pdf GPS12MAP_OwnersManual.pdf GPSV_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP276C_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP60C_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP60CS_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP76_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP76C_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP76CS_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP76S_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP76S_QuickStartGuide.pdf Rino110_OwnersManual.pdf Rino110_QuickStartGuide.pdf Rino120_OwnersManual.pdf Rino120_QuickStartGuide.pdf Rino130_OwnersManual.pdf Rino130_QuickStartGuide.pdf FishFinder120_Installation_QuickStartGuide.pdf FishFinder240_OwnersManual.pdf 437_OwnersManual.pdf 437_OwnersManual.pdf FishFinder320C_OwnersManual.pdf FishFinder80_Installation_QuickStartGuide.pdf Rino110_OwnersManual.pdf Rino110_QuickStartGuide.pdf Rino120_OwnersManual.pdf Rino120_QuickStartGuide.pdf Rino130_OwnersManual.pdf Rino130_QuickStartGuide.pdf FishFinder100_OwnersManual.pdf FishFinder100Blue_OwnersManual.pdf FishFinder160_OwnersManual.pdf FishFinder160Blue_OwnersManual.pdf Fishfinder240Blue_OwnersManual.pdf GPS12CX_OwnersManual.pdf GPS38_OwnersManual.pdf GPS40_OwnersManual.pdf 104_GPS12,12XL,48,80Addendum.pdf GPS48_OwnersManual.pdf GPS50_OwnersManual.pdf GPS75_OwnersManual.pdf GPSII_OwnersManual.pdf GPSIIPlus_OwnersManual_SoftwareVersion2.00-2.11_.pdf GPSIIPlus_OwnersManual_SoftwareVersion3.0andabove_.pdf GPSIIPlus_QuickStartGuide.pdf GPSIII_OwnersManual.pdf GPSIIIPlus_OwnersManual.pdf GPSIIIPlus_PlusFeaturesAddendum.pdf GPS12MAP_OwnersManual.pdf GPSIIIPlus_OwnersManual.pdf GPSIIIPlus_PlusFeaturesAddendum.pdf GPSV_OwnersManual.pdf NavTalkGSM_OwnersManual.pdf NavTalkGSM_ATCommandInterfaceSupplement.pdf Quest_OwnersManual.pdf StreetPilot2610GPS_OwnersManual.pdf 439_OwnersManual.pdf StreetPilot2650GPS_OwnersManual.pdf 39_OwnersManual.pdf StreetPilotGPS_OwnersManual.pdf StreetPilotGPS_AtlanticUsersManual.pdf StreetPilotGPSColorMap_Ownersmanual.pdf StreetPilotGPSColorMap_AtlanticOwnersManual.pdf StreetPilotIIIGPS_OwnersManual.pdf StreetPilotIIIGPS_QuickStartGuide.pdf 45_USBDataCardProgrammer.pdf cfQue1620_QuickStartGuide.pdf cfQue1620_ApplicationsGuide.pdf eMap_OwnersManual.pdf GPS12MAP_OwnersManual.pdf GPSIIIPlus_OwnersManual.pdf GPSIIIPlus_PlusFeaturesAddendum.pdf GPSV_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP60C_OwnersManual.pdf GPSMAP60CS_OwnersManual.pdf iQue3200_OperatingInstructions.pdf iQue3200_QueApplicationsGuide.pdf iQue3600_OperatingInstructions.pdf iQue3600_QueApplicationsGuide.pdf Rino110_OwnersManual.pdf Rino110_QuickStartGuide.pdf Rino120_OwnersManual.pdf Rino120_QuickStartGuide.pdf Rino130_OwnersManual.pdf Rino130_QuickStartGuide.pdf GPSIII_OwnersManual.pdf NavTalk_OwnersManual.pdf 45_USBDataCardProgrammer.pdf MapSource_BlueChartUsersGuide.pdf MapSource_MapSourceUsersGuide.pdf 66_GPS16_17NSeriesTechnicalSpecification.pdf 68_QuickStartGuide.pdf 66_GPS16_17NSeriesTechnicalSpecification.pdf 68_QuickStartGuide.pdf 47_GPSMAP2006_2010_GPS17NInstallationGuide.pdf 66_GPS16_17NSeriesTechnicalSpecification.pdf GPS17N_QuickStartGuide.pdf GPS18_TechnicalSpecification.pdf GPS35LPSeries_TechnicalSpecification.pdf GPS35LPSeries_GPS35USBQuickStartGuide.pdf GPS35LPSeries_GPS35PCQuickStartGuide.pdf GPS36TracPak_TechnicalSpecification.pdf GPS15_TechnicalSpecification.pdf 237_TechnicalSpecifications.pdf 237_TechnicalSpecifications.pdf GPS25LPSeries_TechnicalSpecification.pdf GPS31TracPak_TechnicalSpecification.pdf GPSGuideforBeginners_Manual.pdf IntroductiontoGeocaching_Manual.pdf JeppesenUpdateInstructions_Manual.pdf LoranTDPositionHandbook_Manual.pdf PCX5_OwnersManual.pdf usingaGarminGPSwithPaperLandMaps_Manual.pdf ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: FAILED MAIN LANDING GEAR RV-8
Date: Sep 19, 2004
I'm very curious how you discovered the problem without damage as I don't think surface hardness is something apparent to the eye. How would you suggest the rest of us go about checking for this problem? Dave Reel RV8A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rich Crosley" <dirtrider(at)qnet.com>
Subject: Re: Lower empennage fairings
Date: Sep 19, 2004
Dudley right that how the seal works. I found that "super glue" works great for sticking the seal to the metal fairing. Have fun! Rich Crosley N948RC, RV-8 ready to paint Palmdale, CA Hi Mickey, On the RV-6/A, the seal/gasket for the lower side of the HS is the same shape as the wing fairing seal (it is the same cross-section). The "slot" fits over the aluminum sheet fairing and the "blade" fits against the lower side of the HS with the blade slightly bent against the HS. Hope this helps. Richard Dudley -6A painted and about ready to move to the airport Mickey Coggins wrote: > >I'm looking at the lower empennage fairings, and >can't quite figure out how the rubber seal goes >on. Is the rubber seal different for the root >wing fairings and the empennage fairings? I have >only one type. The picture in the plans look like >a "fillet" type rubber seal. Any hints appreciated! > >Thanks, >Mickey > >-- >Mickey Coggins >http://www.rv8.ch/ >#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 19, 2004
From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: Re: Lower empennage fairings
Hi Rich, Glad you mentioned gluing the seal to the fairing. I was going to ask this about the wing root fairing as well. Mickey > Dudley right that how the seal works. I found that "super glue" works >great for sticking the seal to the metal fairing. Have fun! Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WFACT01(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 19, 2004
Subject: Re: FAILED MAIN LANDING GEAR RV-8
dave-you have the whitman round gear in a 8A -not a problem.I bent mine on my third landing-than started checking why-gear not heat theated-NO AIRFRAME DAMAGE JUST THE GEAR LEG-TOM Tom Whelan Whelan Farms Airport President EAA Chapter 1097 wfact01(at)aol.com 249 Hard Hill Road North PO Box 426 Bethlehem, CT 06751 Tel: 203-266-5300 Fax: 202-266-5140 EAA Technical/Flight Advisor RV-8 540 LYC (Just Flew, Look Out!) S-51 Mustang Turbine (Under Construction) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: FAILED MAIN LANDING GEAR RV-8
Date: Sep 19, 2004
>I'm very curious how you discovered the problem without damage as I don't >think surface hardness is something apparent to the eye. How would you >suggest the rest of us go about checking for this problem? > >Dave Reel RV8A Van's sent out a hardness testing kit way back when this problem was discovered. I think they eventually got it narrowed down to serial number. My kit serial number is 80379 and the gear legs are fine. I don't think it went beyond the first 150 or so kits if that. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD RV10 '51 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 19, 2004
Subject: Re: RV-6 sliding canopy weather seal
In a message dated 9/19/2004 11:27:15 AM Pacific Daylight Time, HCRV6(at)aol.com writes: What have some of you RV-6/7 folks with sliders used for weather and noise seal where the roll bar and front slider bar meet? Any and all ideas much appreciated. ================================================== Harry- I used EPDM strip available from most home improvement stores. GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 719 hrs) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Are Barstad" <are_barstad(at)norlogic.com>
Subject: RE: RV-8 empennage, wings and tools for sale - Milton, Ontario
Canada
Date: Sep 19, 2004
Wings and empennage sold this morning. Tools are still left. You will get everything included in Avery's complete RV builders toolkit (including rivet gun, drill, etc.) plus more and lots of clecos. Note: does not include 90 deg angle drill extension. New price of toolkit $2200US plus you will probably get an extra $500-1000 worth of tools. ** $1100US ($1450 cdn) takes it all. Does not include these tools: 13" drill press - 250-3100 rpm - $90cdn 5 hp/20g Air compressor - $300cdn Band saw (small - $40 takes it) bench grinder with scotchbrite wheel - $25cdn bench belt sander - $25cdn brand new certified torque wrench 20-150 ft.in 1/4" drive from Cleaveland tools: $75cdn (was $145US) Parker Rolo Flare tool - $50 cdn Pick-up only! You can call me anytime at 416-460-5141 Are -----Original Message----- From: Are Barstad [mailto:are_barstad(at)norlogic.com] Subject: RV-8 empennage, wings and tools for sale - Milton, Ontario Canada All, I have been offered and have accepted a position in Norway where I will be working as head of IT for a large oil exploration company. This is a great opportunity and too good to pass up. They want me over there pronto and so I will start the job already on October 18th. My tools will not work there since everything is 220/50hz. It is also very tough to get a moving company to take the wings and empennage. Wings are 80% complete but not covered yet. One of the wings have one side covered. One fuel tank (w/capacitive senders) is done and leak tested. The other tank is ready for sealing. Landing lights have been fitted in the leading edge. Empennage is inspected and closed. I have the inspection papers. Ailerons needs to be built. Flaps needs to be built. The wings comes in a cradle. I also have a TSO'd altimeter w/light, VSI w/light and compass w/light. I have a heated pitot/static tube from Gretch Aero. Tools: 13" drill press - 250-3100 rpm - $90cdn 5 hp/20g Air compressor - $300cdn Band saw (small - $40 takes it) bench grinder with scotchbrite wheel - $25cdn bench belt sander - $25cdn Plus: I have absolutely everything else including torque wrench - pneumatic squeezer, drill press, rivet gun, 37.5 deg. flare tool, compressor etc. I have several bucking bars (all you need) and all rivet sets you need. All aircraft specific tools are mostly Avery but some from Cleaveland Everything must be sold and picked up by October 12 so it will no doubt be a steal for whoever buys it. You can e-mail me at are_barstad(at)manulife.com or call me at 416-460-5141 (cell). I can sell parts (i.e. tools separately) but all aircraft parts must go as one lot. Wings and empennage will go for US$2900 (~$3750 cdn) I do not have the ability or time to ship items unless it's a larger tool collection. Are Barstad --- --- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "C Ennis" <sgtairdog(at)peoplepc.com>
Subject: Another RV finally in the air.
Date: Sep 19, 2004
I am happy to announce the first flight of RV-6A serial # 22558. This morning, a little after 9AM I flew N60CE for the first time, out of Bluelick airport.5 miles south of Louisville International. Charlie Echo was signed off as airworthy by the DAR (Pat Patterson) on Saturday the 18th. After waiting all day for the crosswind to die down, I gave up and returned this morning. After a couple of more high speed taxi runs I lined up on runway 11 and lifted off in about 300 feet. Forty minutes later I landed on 11 using 1200 feet of Bluelicks 1800 foot grass strip. The flight was uneventful until after touchdown, I must have had a piece of dirt stuck in the needle valve which caused the carb to overflow when I throttled back..Which caused a small fireball and a puff of smoke just as the engine flooded and quit...damn good thing I made a solid landing, a go around would have been interesting...We pulled the carb and found small alum shavings in the float bowl..Yeah, we did flush the system, should have done a better job. I am delighted with the performance..stalls at 60 indicated,clean around 58 with full flaps. I flew without main gear fairings or wheel pants, I removed them during taxi testing and will have to open them up for clearance on grass strips. Flew hands off at 140 with a touch of right trim. I know I'm rambling and running on a bit ..11 years and 2200 hours of work came to a climax this morning and I still haven't got a good grip on what I have accomplished.. Thanks for letting me lurk on the RV List for the last several years..You guys are a source of priceless information and inspiration. Charlie Ennis N60CE ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WFACT01(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 19, 2004
Subject: Re: FAILED MAIN LANDING GEAR RV-8
Brian, I was serial number 80013, one of the early ones. I questioned Van's at that time and was told my landing gear was not one of the suspect ones. As for checking hardness from "heat treating" -- it can only be done with accuracy with a Rockwell Hardness Tester. My two gear legs varied from 11C to 48C which could NEVER have been tested with a homemade punch kit. I have put this information on the RV-List to serve as a warning to other builders that they should err on the side of caution. If the gear does bend, you could wipe out your entire aircraft, in addition to sustaining bodily injury. A good gear is normally in a spring bent stage with the aircraft weight on it. The problem related to hardness is that it lacks its spring back memory. I have never seen any of this written up in the RViator in any detail, including suspected serial numbers. We have a complete machine shop and sheet metal shop (including English Wheels and Pullmax Formers, along with much other equipment) on location here. We have been doing this type of work for over 40 years. And, sadly, this got by us on my latest airplane. Do what you want with this information. Regards, Tom Tom Whelan Whelan Farms Airport President EAA Chapter 1097 wfact01(at)aol.com 249 Hard Hill Road North PO Box 426 Bethlehem, CT 06751 Tel: 203-266-5300 Fax: 202-266-5140 EAA Technical/Flight Advisor RV-8 540 LYC (Just Flew, Look Out!) S-51 Mustang Turbine (Under Construction) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 19, 2004
From: Louis Willig <larywil(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-4 rear stick
Hi gang, Does anyone have a rear stick to replace the one I lost in a hangar fire? If not, does Van sell a pre-fab rear control stick. I can drill and cut. But I don't know if I can bend a 1" steel tube very well. Louis - Louis I Willig 1640 Oakwood Dr. Penn Valley, PA 19072 610 668-4964 RV-4, N180PF 190HP IO-360, C/S prop ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: RV-4 rear stick
Date: Sep 19, 2004
Find an electrician. He will be able to bend it. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Louis Willig" <larywil(at)comcast.net> Subject: RV-List: RV-4 rear stick > > Hi gang, > > Does anyone have a rear stick to replace the one I lost in a hangar > fire? If not, does Van sell a pre-fab rear control stick. I can drill and > cut. But I don't know if I can bend a 1" steel tube very well. > > Louis > > > - > Louis I Willig > 1640 Oakwood Dr. > Penn Valley, PA 19072 > 610 668-4964 > RV-4, N180PF > 190HP IO-360, C/S prop > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 19, 2004
From: Gert <gert.v(at)sbcglobal.net>
rv-list
Subject: baffle drawings for IO-369
Hi Folks does anybody have a set of drawings for the baffles for an IO360 200 hp?? Thanks gert -- is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: baffle drawings for IO-369
Date: Sep 19, 2004
You are willing to pay $500 to download the baffle plans from my archive? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gert" <gert.v(at)sbcglobal.net> Subject: RV-List: baffle drawings for IO-369 > > Hi Folks > > does anybody have a set of drawings for the baffles for an IO360 200 hp?? > > Thanks > > gert > -- > is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott VanArtsdalen" <svanarts(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-4 rear stick
Date: Sep 19, 2004
I'm pretty sure you can buy a rear stick from them. I didn't modify my rear stick at all. Just put it in as it came from Van's. -- Scott VanArtsdalen RV-4 N311SV 4-ever! -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Louis Willig Subject: RV-List: RV-4 rear stick Hi gang, Does anyone have a rear stick to replace the one I lost in a hangar fire? If not, does Van sell a pre-fab rear control stick. I can drill and cut. But I don't know if I can bend a 1" steel tube very well. Louis - Louis I Willig 1640 Oakwood Dr. Penn Valley, PA 19072 610 668-4964 RV-4, N180PF 190HP IO-360, C/S prop = = = = ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 19, 2004
Subject: Re: RV-6 sliding canopy weather seal
In a message dated 9/19/04 1:44:47 PM US Eastern Standard Time, Vanremog(at)aol.com writes: > Harry- > > I used EPDM strip available from most home improvement stores. > > GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 719 hrs) > > > What is EPDM? Dan Hopper RV-7A N766DH Flying about 48 hours now since July 7. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Oldsfolks(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 19, 2004
Subject: Re: RV-4 Rear Stick
I think you will find that Van's has ALL the parts for RV aircraft. Use your phone or email !! Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor Charleston,Arkansas Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 19, 2004
From: Gert <gert.v(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: baffle drawings for IO-369
I will personally *NOT* drag any broken airplanes from Northpoint all the way to classic/antique/contempory anymore in my green machine/ gatorette (poor excuse for a green machine), that should be worth the 500 smacko's ;-) Then again, if you wait till 2005, I will come and suck up personally to ya.............scary, I know.............but I'll bring beer...... Gert cgalley wrote: > > You are willing to pay $500 to download the baffle plans from my archive? > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Gert" <gert.v(at)sbcglobal.net> > To: ; "rv-list" > Subject: RV-List: baffle drawings for IO-369 > > > >> >>Hi Folks >> >>does anybody have a set of drawings for the baffles for an IO360 200 hp?? >> >>Thanks >> >>gert >>-- >>is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 >> >> > > > > > > > -- is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: baffle drawings for IO-369
Date: Sep 19, 2004
Unfortunately, It was a joke! I don't have any baffling. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gert" <gert.v(at)sbcglobal.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: baffle drawings for IO-369 > > I will personally *NOT* drag any broken airplanes from Northpoint all > the way to classic/antique/contempory anymore in my green machine/ > gatorette (poor excuse for a green machine), that should be worth the > 500 smacko's ;-) > > Then again, if you wait till 2005, I will come and suck up personally to > ya.............scary, I know.............but I'll bring beer...... > > > Gert > > cgalley wrote: > > > > You are willing to pay $500 to download the baffle plans from my archive? > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Gert" <gert.v(at)sbcglobal.net> > > To: ; "rv-list" > > Subject: RV-List: baffle drawings for IO-369 > > > > > > > >> > >>Hi Folks > >> > >>does anybody have a set of drawings for the baffles for an IO360 200 hp?? > >> > >>Thanks > >> > >>gert > >>-- > >>is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 > >> > >> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -- > is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV8ter(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 20, 2004
Subject: IO-360-A1B6D
Where's online info on how to maintain and service the dual mag pack unique to this model? I searched the lycoming web site over the weekend but didn't find what I was looking for. Now that my engine is mounted, I see the ops manual that came with it is really lacking the details I need. Where can I find detailed info on this model such as 1) should there be a gasket between the Bendix fuel system and the engine pad for it, 2) how do you set up and adjust the RSA 5AD1fuel metering system 3) the example drawings in the book don't exaxtly match the engine so is there a more specific on on the web somewhere? The manual I have doesn't even have one picture of this engine! I could go on but if somone could tell me where I could learn more specific info on installing this specific engine that would be welcomed. thanks, Lucky ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "R.A.S" <deruiteraircraftservices(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: IO-360-A1B6D
Date: Sep 20, 2004
Hi, does this engine actually fit in the mount or did you order a special mount from Van's? Marcel ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 20, 2004
From: gerald conrad <gwcgwc(at)videotron.ca>
Subject: For Sale RV-6 Kit
RV-6 Kit For Sale. Empennage 5% done, Wings 20%, Fuselage & Finishing 0%. Slow build. My wife wants it out of the garage. $12,000. or $15,600 Canadian. Reply off line. Gerry Conrad RV-6A ...50 hrs RV-6 kit Montreal, Canada ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Shirley Harding" <shirleyh(at)argo.net.au>
Subject: alternators
Date: Sep 20, 2004
----- Original Message ----- From: Shirley Harding Subject: alternators Hi all -- any photos or advice on an alternator set-up for an RV6. I've got the Vans brackets and a Bosch alternator but it seems to hit the lower cowl. Cheers Shirley RV6 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PGLong(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 20, 2004
Subject: tail wheel spring wanted
I have one from left my RV4 when I went to the full swivel tail wheel assy. Pat Long PGLong(at)aol.com N120PL RV4 Bay City, Michigan 3CM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: FAILED MAIN LANDING GEAR RV-8
Date: Sep 20, 2004
0.20 FROM_HAS_ULINE_NUMS From: contains an underline and numbers/letters Tom - Glad no airframe damage occurred. Someone else build your -8? Van sent out a letter and test kit to builders in order to check for this condition. Mine's s/n 313 and I was notified sometime in 1999 as I recall. Checked out fine. Glad no a/c damage occurred. On the bright side, maybe you now have an opportunity for some nice Grove Al landing gear?!?! Bryan Houston -8 >We just removed two bent landing gears from my recently completed RV-8. No, >it was not a hard landing. It was because I was sent a pair of unhardened >gear >legs as part of my original kit. I don't know how many others are out there >like this, but this is one of the earlier kits, serial #80013. The >C-hardness >test on the bent gear was 11. It was supposed to be C-42 to 44. If it >doesn't >look right on your airplane, it probably isn't. The good part is we caught >it >before we had any damage. The bad part is it could have wiped out the whole >airplane. New gears have been installed and it is ready to go again. >Performance >is unbelievable. Regards, Tom. > >Tom Whelan >Whelan Farms Airport > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 20, 2004
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: IO-360-A1B6D
I almost bought a used one of these from a Cessna Cardinal with three blade CS prop IIRC. You might find documentation in that direction...Hope this helps... I was looking for the three blade capability afforded by the counterweights - I eventually had Aerosport Power build my engine as I encountered the same documentation (lack of) issues that you are experiencing. -----Original Message----- From: RV8ter(at)aol.com Subject: RV-List: IO-360-A1B6D Where's online info on how to maintain and service the dual mag pack unique to this model? I searched the lycoming web site over the weekend but didn't find what I was looking for. Now that my engine is mounted, I see the ops manual that came with it is really lacking the details I need. Where can I find detailed info on this model such as 1) should there be a gasket between the Bendix fuel system and the engine pad for it, 2) how do you set up and adjust the RSA 5AD1fuel metering system 3) the example drawings in the book don't exaxtly match the engine so is there a more specific on on the web somewhere? The manual I have doesn't even have one picture of this engine! I could go on but if somone could tell me where I could learn more specific info on installing this specific engine that would be welcomed. thanks, Lucky ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 20, 2004
From: RV8ter(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: IO-360-A1B6D
it fit van's. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Crosley, Rich" <RCROSLEY(at)HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM>
Subject: PAINTING THE GAS TANK
Date: Sep 20, 2004
1.96 FROM_NO_LOWER From address has no lower-case characters I am getting ready to paint and wondering what the consensus is on how to paint the wing and gas tank. 1. Separately and use stainless screws 2. Paint together screws included 3. Fill screws and paint together 4. Or what If you paint it together removing it because of some future problem seems like it would be a pain. Thanks, Rich Crosley RV-8 N948RC Palmdale, CA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 20, 2004
Subject: 3/32 blind rivets
From: russ(at)wernerworld.com
Anyone know where to get 3/32 flush pop rivets that are a bit longer than the ones Vans sells? Please email me direct at russ(at)wernerworld.com Russ Werner HRII ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Imfairings(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 20, 2004
Subject: Re: Another RV finally in the air.
Way to go Charlie...I can see that RV grin clear over here in AZ...Fly safe...enjoy. Bob Snedaker Fairings-Etc www.fairings-etc.com bob@fairings-etc.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: gear leg fairings
Date: Sep 20, 2004
Dear All, I am fitting updated single piece gear leg fairings to my RV-4. I've got them set to use hose clamps to secure the upper end. My questions are: How did you secure the lower end of the fairing to the gear leg, or did you let it float? (or just let the wheel pant intersection fairing locate it? Was anything needed as a chaffe guard between the gear leg and the fairing. Thanks, Don Mei "All of us need to be reminded that the federal government did not create the states; the states created the federal government!"---Ronald Reagan ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 20, 2004
From: "David E. Nelson" <david.nelson(at)pobox.com>
Subject: Re: PAINTING THE GAS TANK
Hi Jim, What is a "B/C system"? Thanks, /\/elson On Mon, 20 Sep 2004, Jim Duckett wrote: > > Rich, > It's really six of one and half dozen of the other. The big thing is > what do YOU want to do? > As a painter, I've done it both ways with success. No matter what way > you go, if you have to remove the tank at a later date you will > undoubtedly mar the paint in some way... Guaranteed! > If your using a two-stage system, then I tend to lean more to the > separate component approach. At least for the primary color. Then put > it all together and lay-out and shoot your stripes or secondary > color(s). Any fairings or access panels should only be installed > temporarily to lay out for color breaks. Then removed and shot > separately no matter what way you choose. Nothing bothers me more than > to see overspray around a fairing, or little or no paint coverage on a > panel joggle. > Using a B/C system you can easily repair any defects in the basecoat > before you clear. I would suggest that you not make your color breaks > on or real close to any attachment lines (rivets and screws) so if you > do mar the paint, you only have one color to deal with. > Just remember the time you spend planning and prepping you paint job > will be in direct proportion to how well the job comes out. If you've > never painted before you might want to go to your local wrecking yard > and buy a couple of junk hoods and practice on them before tackling your > bird...Just my 2 Cents. > > Jim Duckett RV708JD ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 20, 2004
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: 3/32 blind rivets
I got mine at Aircraft Supply on Parwelk in Dallas...2146373598...don't know what their mail-order process is...I just drive over...... -----Original Message----- From: russ(at)wernerworld.com Subject: RV-List: 3/32 blind rivets Anyone know where to get 3/32 flush pop rivets that are a bit longer than the ones Vans sells? Please email me direct at russ(at)wernerworld.com Russ Werner HRII ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "steve zicree" <szicree(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: PAINTING THE GAS TANK
Date: Sep 20, 2004
I'm on the fence on this one myself, but leaning towards painting it as one unit. I think visible screws on tips and fairings look fine, but they seem kind of wrong on the wing. I figure if there's a problem in the future that requires removal, I'll carefully remove them and repalce with stainless at that time. I seem to remember seeing a tool once for making a little round "incision" in paint around the perimeter of the screw's head -- looked like a little bitty hole saw. Steve Zicree RV4 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Crosley, Rich" <RCROSLEY(at)HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM> Subject: RV-List: PAINTING THE GAS TANK > > I am getting ready to paint and wondering what the consensus is on how to > paint the wing and gas tank. > > 1. Separately and use stainless screws > 2. Paint together screws included > 3. Fill screws and paint together > 4. Or what > > If you paint it together removing it because of some future problem seems > like it would be a pain. > > > Thanks, > > Rich Crosley > RV-8 N948RC > Palmdale, CA > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: PAINTING THE GAS TANK
Date: Sep 20, 2004
From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net>
The inside diameter of a -6 aluminum tube fits the OD of a -8 screwhead perfectly. I took a piece of tube to the bench sander and ground a very sharp edge so the tube could be placed over a screw head, turned to cut the paint and the painted screw could then be removed leaving the paint behind on the skin. Worked great on every screw head I did. Course I did not figure this trick out till I broke some paint off removing the first few screws and called a professional painter buddy who hooked me up with this trick. On my S8 tanks, I have sacrificial screws which are slightly loose, enough so that paint cant get underneath the head when sprayed, but loose enough that paint wont stick to the head and skin when removed. This way I can paint a good set of screws and put them in at the end, and when I tighten em, they wont chip the paint under the screw cause there is no paint under the screw cause the sacrificial screws were covering the holes. Neat huh? Not my idea. This was completely stolen from my painter w/o the sacrificial screws, then you toy with chipping paint either putting the screws in, or taking them out, regardless of when tool to make to cut the paint around the screws. Mike Stewart Learned my lesson on this. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of steve zicree Subject: Re: RV-List: PAINTING THE GAS TANK I'm on the fence on this one myself, but leaning towards painting it as one unit. I think visible screws on tips and fairings look fine, but they seem kind of wrong on the wing. I figure if there's a problem in the future that requires removal, I'll carefully remove them and repalce with stainless at that time. I seem to remember seeing a tool once for making a little round "incision" in paint around the perimeter of the screw's head -- looked like a little bitty hole saw. Steve Zicree RV4 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Crosley, Rich" <RCROSLEY(at)HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM> Subject: RV-List: PAINTING THE GAS TANK > > I am getting ready to paint and wondering what the consensus is on how to > paint the wing and gas tank. > > 1. Separately and use stainless screws > 2. Paint together screws included > 3. Fill screws and paint together > 4. Or what > > If you paint it together removing it because of some future problem seems > like it would be a pain. > > > Thanks, > > Rich Crosley > RV-8 N948RC > Palmdale, CA > > = = = = ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 20, 2004
From: SportAV8R(at)aol.com
Subject: PAINTING THE GAS TANK
Mike: why would the sacrificial screws need to be replaced with new ones? Sounds like they emerge from the process already painted but not stuck down - ideal. -Bill B ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: PAINTING THE GAS TANK
Date: Sep 20, 2004
From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net>
QWhoLCBnb29kID8gTGlubi4NCkJlY2F1c2Ugd2hlbiB5b3UgYXJlIHNhbmRpbmcgYmV0d2VlbiBj b2F0cywgeW91IGhhdmUgdG8gcnVuIHRoZW0gaW4gdG8gZ2V0IHRoZSBza2lucyBzZWF0ZWQgdG8g Z2V0IGEgZ29vZCB3ZXQgc2FuZC4gV2l0aCB0aGUgc2NyZXdzIHNsaWdodGx5IHJhaXNlZCwgaXQg dGVhcnMgdXAgdGhlIHNhbmRwYXBlciBvbiB0aGUgREEgb3IgdGhlIGhhbmQgc2FuZGluZy4NClNv IHRoZXkgZ2V0IGJ1Z2dlcmVkIHVwIHJ1bm5pbmcgZW0gaW4gYW5kIG91dC4NCiANCg0KCS0tLS0t T3JpZ2luYWwgTWVzc2FnZS0tLS0tIA0KCUZyb206IG93bmVyLXJ2LWxpc3Qtc2VydmVyQG1hdHJv bmljcy5jb20gb24gYmVoYWxmIG9mIFNwb3J0QVY4UkBhb2wuY29tIA0KCVNlbnQ6IE1vbiA5LzIw LzIwMDQgNDoxNyBQTSANCglUbzogcnYtbGlzdEBtYXRyb25pY3MuY29tIA0KCUNjOiANCglTdWJq ZWN0OiBSRTogUlYtTGlzdDogUEFJTlRJTkcgVEhFIEdBUyBUQU5LDQoJDQoJDQoNCgktLT4gUlYt TGlzdCBtZXNzYWdlIHBvc3RlZCBieTogU3BvcnRBVjhSQGFvbC5jb20NCgkNCglNaWtlOiB3aHkg d291bGQgdGhlIHNhY3JpZmljaWFsIHNjcmV3cyBuZWVkIHRvIGJlIHJlcGxhY2VkIHdpdGggbmV3 IG9uZXM/ICBTb3VuZHMgbGlrZSB0aGV5IGVtZXJnZSBmcm9tIHRoZSBwcm9jZXNzIGFscmVhZHkg cGFpbnRlZCBidXQgbm90IHN0dWNrIGRvd24gLSBpZGVhbC4NCgkNCgktQmlsbCBCDQoJDQoJDQoJ Xy09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09 PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT0NCglfLT0gICAgICAgICAgICAgIC0gVGhlIFJWLUxpc3QgRW1haWwg Rm9ydW0gLQ0KCV8tPSBUaGlzIGZvcnVtIGlzIHNwb25zb3JlZCBlbnRpcmVseSB0aHJvdWdoIHRo ZSBDb250cmlidXRpb25zDQoJXy09IG9mIExpc3QgbWVtYmVycy4gIFlvdSdsbCBuZXZlciBzZWUg YmFubmVyIGFkcyBvciBhbnkgb3RoZXINCglfLT0gZm9ybSBvZiBkaXJlY3QgYWR2ZXJ0aXNpbmcg b24gdGhlIE1hdHJvbmljcyBGb3J1bXMuDQoJXy09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09 PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT0NCglfLT0gISEgTkVX ICEhDQoJXy09IEFMTCBORVcgTElTVCBDSEFUISEgaHR0cDovL3d3dy5tYXRyb25pY3MuY29tL2No YXQNCglfLT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09 PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PQ0KCV8tPSBMaXN0IFJlbGF0ZWQgSW5mb3JtYXRpb24NCglf LT0gIFBvc3QgTWVzc2FnZTogICBydi1saXN0QG1hdHJvbmljcy5jb20NCglfLT0gIFVOL1NVQlND UklCRTogICBodHRwOi8vd3d3Lm1hdHJvbmljcy5jb20vc3Vic2NyaXB0aW9uDQoJXy09ICBMaXN0 IEZBUTogICAgICAgaHR0cDovL3d3dy5tYXRyb25pY3MuY29tL0ZBUS9SVi1MaXN0Lmh0bQ0KCV8t PSAgU2VhcmNoIEVuZ2luZTogIGh0dHA6Ly93d3cubWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbS9zZWFyY2gNCglfLT0g IDctRGF5IEJyb3dzZTogICBodHRwOi8vd3d3Lm1hdHJvbmljcy5jb20vYnJvd3NlL3J2LWxpc3QN CglfLT0gIEJyb3dzZSBEaWdlc3RzOiBodHRwOi8vd3d3Lm1hdHJvbmljcy5jb20vZGlnZXN0L3J2 LWxpc3QNCglfLT0gIExpdmUgTGlzdCBDaGF0OiBodHRwOi8vd3d3Lm1hdHJvbmljcy5jb20vY2hh dA0KCV8tPSAgQXJjaGl2ZXM6ICAgICAgIGh0dHA6Ly93d3cubWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbS9hcmNoaXZl cw0KCV8tPSAgUGhvdG8gU2hhcmU6ICAgIGh0dHA6Ly93d3cubWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbS9waG90b3No YXJlDQoJXy09ICBMaXN0IFNwZWNpZmljOiAgaHR0cDovL3d3dy5tYXRyb25pY3MuY29tL3J2LWxp c3QNCglfLT0gIE90aGVyIExpc3RzOiAgICBodHRwOi8vd3d3Lm1hdHJvbmljcy5jb20vZW1haWxs aXN0cw0KCV8tPSAgVHJvdWJsZSBSZXBvcnQgIGh0dHA6Ly93d3cubWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbS90cm91 YmxlLXJlcG9ydA0KCV8tPSAgQ29udHJpYnV0aW9uczogIGh0dHA6Ly93d3cubWF0cm9uaWNzLmNv bS9jb250cmlidXRpb24NCglfLT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09 PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PQ0KCQ0KCQ0KCQ0KCQ0KCQ0KDQo ________________________________________________________________________________
From: plaurence@the-beach.net
Date: Sep 20, 2004
Subject: Re: 3/32 blind rivets
Russ, Try http://www.aerotech.aero/ccr_specs.htm Peter Laurence On 20 Sep 2004 at 10:34, russ(at)wernerworld.com wrote: > > Anyone know where to get 3/32 flush pop rivets that are a bit longer > than the ones Vans sells? Please email me direct at > russ(at)wernerworld.com > > Russ Werner > HRII > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Subject: Tuft Testing the RV wing
Date: Sep 20, 2004
This has probably been done by many before me but the following link shows pics of some of the www.landshorter.com vortext generators along with a bunch of pics and movies of the left wing tuft testing that I did this weekend. http://www.miramarcollege.net/programs/avim/faculty/north/tufttests/ resplice as needed. So far I'm not convinced that VGs will do much for the RVs, but I still have several things to try. I'm guessing though that the issue will be not that they don't work, but more if you already have an awesome airplane, and you increase the awesomeness by 5% then you will have a 1.05 awesome airplane. On the upside the whole project got me reading all the info on the www.cafefoundation.org about exhausts, ignition and airflow. Seems like the thrust of their work is about lean running the engine above 10K altitude, and if you aren't doing this then there isn't a high degree of benefit from all the fancy engine mods. (I know, its not fair to reduce 57 pages of data and analysis into one sentence) W ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Craig Warner" <cwarner(at)twcny.rr.com>
Subject: Re: PAINTING THE GAS TANK
Date: Sep 20, 2004
Pait the wing with the tank in place but the screw heads sticking up. When the paint dries switch the screws to stainless. Craig warner- 3 RVs painted Finally building my own. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Crosley, Rich" <RCROSLEY(at)HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM> Subject: RV-List: PAINTING THE GAS TANK > > > I am getting ready to paint and wondering what the consensus is on how to > paint the wing and gas tank. > > 1. Separately and use stainless screws > 2. Paint together screws included > 3. Fill screws and paint together > 4. Or what > > If you paint it together removing it because of some future problem seems > like it would be a pain. > > > Thanks, > > Rich Crosley > RV-8 N948RC > Palmdale, CA > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gabriel A Ferrer" <ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Gear Leg Fairings
Date: Sep 20, 2004
I've had a continuous problem with my leg fairings. They are attached by a single clamp at the top. The leg fairings come loose about every 15 flight hours. Anybody with some good ideas? Gabe A Ferrer RV6 N2GX 135 hours South Florida Survived Hurricane Frances. Hurricane Eye went right over hangar. No plane damage. Email: ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net Cell: 561 758 8894 Fax: 561 833 3138 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 20, 2004
Subject: Re: Gear Leg Fairings
In a message dated 9/20/2004 4:35:19 PM Pacific Daylight Time, ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net writes: I've had a continuous problem with my leg fairings. They are attached by a single clamp at the top. The leg fairings come loose about every 15 flight hours. ============================= Gage- Is the material yielding or is the screw backing off? There are better clamps available if the material is yielding (bending or deflecting) and you should safety wire them if the screw is backing off. Mine are installed the same way and have not moved in almost 720 hrs. GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 719 hrs) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 20, 2004
Subject: Re: PAINTING THE GAS TANK
In a message dated 9/20/2004 8:33:30 AM Pacific Daylight Time, RCR OSLEY(at)HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM writes: I am getting ready to paint and wondering what the consensus is on how to paint the wing and gas tank. 1. Separately and use stainless screws 2. Paint together screws included 3. Fill screws and paint together 4. Or what ===================================== My choice is or what. Use only 8-32 socket head cap screws in just a few locations to hold the tanks in place on the wing and they will allow paint to penetrate down into the dimples. Back them out slightly after paint has set and then remove completely and install CRES screws when paint is dry. GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 719 hrs) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 20, 2004
From: Gert <gert.v(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Tuft Testing the RV wing
Hey wheeler I think you have typos in yer page.... ../tuftstests/ has one too many s's in the line ;-) all links for the pic's come up broken but if I splice RV6_stalls_001.jpg' behind the page url it will work. Gert Wheeler North wrote: > > This has probably been done by many before me but the following link shows > pics of some of the www.landshorter.com vortext generators along with a > bunch of pics and movies of the left wing tuft testing that I did this > weekend. > > > http://www.miramarcollege.net/programs/avim/faculty/north/tufttests/ > > resplice as needed. > > So far I'm not convinced that VGs will do much for the RVs, but I still have > several things to try. > > I'm guessing though that the issue will be not that they don't work, but > more if you already have an awesome airplane, and you increase the > awesomeness by 5% then you will have a 1.05 awesome airplane. > > On the upside the whole project got me reading all the info on the > www.cafefoundation.org about exhausts, ignition and airflow. Seems like the > thrust of their work is about lean running the engine above 10K altitude, > and if you aren't doing this then there isn't a high degree of benefit from > all the fancy engine mods. (I know, its not fair to reduce 57 pages of data > and analysis into one sentence) > > W > > > > > > -- is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 20, 2004
Subject: Re: RV-6 sliding canopy weather seal
In a message dated 9/19/2004 6:16:04 PM Pacific Daylight Time, Hopperdhh(at)aol.com writes: What is EPDM? =================================== Punch it into your favorite search engine and find out all you want to know and more.. GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 719 hrs) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 20, 2004
From: Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Tuft Testing the RV wing
Well, this would all be very interesting, but the pictures and movies do not show up on the web pages - just the text. The images are blank and if you try to look at just the image, it shows 404 missing link. Really would like to look at your testing results! Dick Tasker Wheeler North wrote: > >This has probably been done by many before me but the following link shows >pics of some of the www.landshorter.com vortext generators along with a >bunch of pics and movies of the left wing tuft testing that I did this >weekend. > > >http://www.miramarcollege.net/programs/avim/faculty/north/tufttests/ > >resplice as needed. > >So far I'm not convinced that VGs will do much for the RVs, but I still have >several things to try. > >I'm guessing though that the issue will be not that they don't work, but >more if you already have an awesome airplane, and you increase the >awesomeness by 5% then you will have a 1.05 awesome airplane. > >On the upside the whole project got me reading all the info on the >www.cafefoundation.org about exhausts, ignition and airflow. Seems like the >thrust of their work is about lean running the engine above 10K altitude, >and if you aren't doing this then there isn't a high degree of benefit from >all the fancy engine mods. (I know, its not fair to reduce 57 pages of data >and analysis into one sentence) > >W > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: RV-6 sliding canopy weather seal
Date: Sep 20, 2004
EPDM: Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer from Google! ----- Original Message ----- From: <Vanremog(at)aol.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-6 sliding canopy weather seal > > > In a message dated 9/19/2004 6:16:04 PM Pacific Daylight Time, > Hopperdhh(at)aol.com writes: > > What is EPDM? > > > =================================== > > Punch it into your favorite search engine and find out all you want to know > and more.. > > GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 719 hrs) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net>
Subject: Re: Tuft Testing the RV wing
Date: Sep 20, 2004
By following Gert's tip, was able to view each of the .jpg photos (rt click each to pop up menu & click "Properties" to get details that give the number to change in the jpg name of each photo - not all in squence so have to look at each one). The 3 movie links, after deleting the extra s that is between tuft & test (should be tufttest, not tuftstest), downloaded OK but I only got audio, no video. Probably some problem with my Windows Media player - have used it to view video clips before but it's not giving video on these files. Is the .mov extension what it is looking for to see it as a video file instead of an audio file? About the tufts - I'm almost amazed at how the tufts behind the fuel tank (and the line just outboard of tank) show totally separated airflow all the way to the front, while the others are straight all the way aft. - I wonder if there is something tripping the airflow abnormally in the inboard half of the wing? Wouldn't think it was prop-wash or landing gear down below. - Anyone have any archived photos of other aircraft for comparison? Think CAFE tufted and took pics? David ----- Original Message ----- From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> Subject: RV-List: Tuft Testing the RV wing > > This has probably been done by many before me but the following link shows > pics of some of the www.landshorter.com vortext generators along with a > bunch of pics and movies of the left wing tuft testing that I did this > weekend. > > > http://www.miramarcollege.net/programs/avim/faculty/north/tufttests/ > > resplice as needed. > > So far I'm not convinced that VGs will do much for the RVs, but I still have > several things to try. > > I'm guessing though that the issue will be not that they don't work, but > more if you already have an awesome airplane, and you increase the > awesomeness by 5% then you will have a 1.05 awesome airplane. > > On the upside the whole project got me reading all the info on the > www.cafefoundation.org about exhausts, ignition and airflow. Seems like the > thrust of their work is about lean running the engine above 10K altitude, > and if you aren't doing this then there isn't a high degree of benefit from > all the fancy engine mods. (I know, its not fair to reduce 57 pages of data > and analysis into one sentence) > > W > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net>
Subject: Re: Aerosport Power Engine
Date: Sep 21, 2004
There was no change. Aerosport Power only very recently began to make there own engines. We have not yet gotten the programs underwriter to accept the Aerosport Power (Lycoming clone) engine. We fully expected that it wouldn't be an issue at all. Their Lycoming overhauls have been accepted for years. I believe I know of whom you are speaking, and that individual has 75 total flying hours, and no tailwheel experience. The only company that would write coverage for that individual is our program. I think all RV drivers should be up in arms that the EAA's wonderful program won't do that for their members! (of which I am one). There are companies other than the one which underwrites the program which we'd normally be able to use. However, while they'll accept that engine, they won't accept him as the pilot. Catch 22. We are working on getting that engine approved for the program as a whole. I don't know when it'll happen. For that individual, we are trying to get the underwriter TODAY to make a one time exception for him since he is in such a pickle. JT P.S. Jim, apparently a lot of people read your website. Congratulations. Please do another post describing how diligently we're working to try to resolve the issue you posted on 9/11. I've gotten at least 5 or 6 individual inquiries about this issue. ----- Original Message ----- From: Don.Alexander(at)AstenJohnson.com To: jhelms(at)i1.net Sent: Tuesday, September 21, 2004 8:24 AM Subject: Aerosport Power Engine John, I have recently heard from one of us RV-8 types that he is not able to get VanGuard insurance for his now-ready-to-fly RV-8 because he has an Aerosport Power Lycoming clone engine. My understanding was that this issue had been resolved over a year ago according to a post that you made to the RV world. Why the change? Regards, Don ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 21, 2004
From: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Tuft Testing the RV wing
Wheeler, Thanks for the link. However, none of the photos comes up. I tried accessing the site using both Internet Explorer and Netscape. Charlie Kuss > >This has probably been done by many before me but the following link shows >pics of some of the www.landshorter.com vortext generators along with a >bunch of pics and movies of the left wing tuft testing that I did this >weekend. > > >http://www.miramarcollege.net/programs/avim/faculty/north/tufttests/ > >resplice as needed. > >So far I'm not convinced that VGs will do much for the RVs, but I still have >several things to try. > >I'm guessing though that the issue will be not that they don't work, but >more if you already have an awesome airplane, and you increase the >awesomeness by 5% then you will have a 1.05 awesome airplane. > >On the upside the whole project got me reading all the info on the >www.cafefoundation.org about exhausts, ignition and airflow. Seems like the >thrust of their work is about lean running the engine above 10K altitude, >and if you aren't doing this then there isn't a high degree of benefit from >all the fancy engine mods. (I know, its not fair to reduce 57 pages of data >and analysis into one sentence) > >W > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: fiberglass tips rivet choice
Date: Sep 21, 2004
From: "Will, Scott" <Scott.Will(at)delta.com>
I'm getting ready to rivet the fiberglass tips on my empennage. I intend to cut and epoxy some .025 alclad as reiforcing strips for the inside of the fiberglass as many others have advised. For those who have done this, did you use the blind rivets as supplied (CS4-4) or did you have to get longer ones? If so, which type of rivets did you use? Thanks much in advance. Scott Will Decatur, GA -7A emp ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DJB6A(at)cs.com
Date: Sep 21, 2004
Subject: Re: PAINTING THE GAS TANK
I just painted mine this weekend. Took #8 Screws, tapped a #8 thread in to aluminum tube, screw into tube, grind the head down using grinder. Install screws (particularly important that the ones closest to the edge are all installed), put 1/4" round stickers on screw head. Paint. Next day remove sticker and remove screw replace with SS screw, do not over torque, paint is still soft. Takes some time, but looks pretty good. Dave Burnham RV6A (N64FN) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 21, 2004
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: PAINTING THE GAS TANK
I painted the wing/tank separately. That way if I ever have to remove the tank there should be less paint damage. I also used stainless screws. > > > I am getting ready to paint and wondering what the consensus is on how to >paint the wing and gas tank. > >1. Separately and use stainless screws >2. Paint together screws included >3. Fill screws and paint together >4. Or what > >If you paint it together removing it because of some future problem seems >like it would be a pain. > > >Thanks, > >Rich Crosley >RV-8 N948RC >Palmdale, CA > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 21, 2004
From: Peter Laurence <dr.laurence(at)mbdi.org>
Subject: Re: fiberglass tips rivet choice
I used the CS4-4s Worked well Peter ----- Original Message ----- From: "Will, Scott" <Scott.Will(at)delta.com> Subject: RV-List: fiberglass tips rivet choice > > I'm getting ready to rivet the fiberglass tips on my empennage. I intend to cut and epoxy some .025 alclad as reiforcing strips for the inside of the fiberglass as many others have advised. For those who have done this, did you use the blind rivets as supplied (CS4-4) or did you have to get longer ones? If so, which type of rivets did you use? > > Thanks much in advance. > > Scott Will > Decatur, GA > -7A emp > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 21, 2004
From: Christopher Stone <rv8iator(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: heated seats
I ran across these seat heaters. http://www.rameinc.com/SeatHeaters.html I am considering them for my -8. There has been some past discussion of heated seats especially for the rear seat in the -8. Don't know yet what the power requirement is for these. Chris Stone Design Engineer A-DEC Newberg, Oregon www.a-dec.com -8 wings.... forever ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Subject: engine oil leak
Date: Sep 21, 2004
My 0-360 has a worsening oil leak apparently from the case seam on the bottom front end. 10 minutes of ground running produces a couple drops hanging from the case, and then dirtying the airbox and alternator. Short of pulling the engine and re-sealing the case, is there anything that can be done about this? I've heard about expensive stuff you can put on the outside of a leaky fuel tank to stop fuel leaks past rivets. Has anyone ever tried this or something similar on an engine case seam? Thanks, Andy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gabriel A Ferrer" <ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: fiberglass tips rivet choice
Date: Sep 21, 2004
Except for the elevator and vertical stabilizer, I used plate nuts and screws for my wing tips, wing root covers and empennage fiberglass fittings. They make for good inspection ports and easy access to landing lights, marker beacon antenna, angle of attack sensor, etc Gabe A Ferrer RV6 N2GX 136 hours South Florida Email: ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net Cell: 561 758 8894 Fax: 561 833 3138 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Smcm75(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 21, 2004
Subject: Re: engine oil leak
Andy: You probably have case fretting that could possibly result in spinning a bearing. The case needs to be split and remachined, line bored and the updated studs installed. You may as well do a major while you are at it ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: engine oil leak
Date: Sep 21, 2004
Clean carefully and re-check. Several have found that there was a crack in the case. Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair Safety Programs Editor - TC EAA Sport Pilot ----- Original Message ----- From: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> Subject: RV-List: engine oil leak > > My 0-360 has a worsening oil leak apparently from the case seam on the > bottom front end. 10 minutes of ground running produces a couple drops > hanging from the case, and then dirtying the airbox and alternator. Short > of > pulling the engine and re-sealing the case, is there anything that can be > done about this? > > I've heard about expensive stuff you can put on the outside of a leaky fuel > tank to stop fuel leaks past rivets. Has anyone ever tried this or > something similar on an engine case seam? > > Thanks, > Andy > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: engine oil leak
Date: Sep 21, 2004
Hmmmm....could be right, but I'd surely explore the other possibilities before doing a Major Overhaul!!! It's never that cut & dried with these Lycomings. A leak on the case doesn't automatically mean that you major it, line bore it, et.al. Simple fact is that you need to clean it well first and make sure you know exactly where the leak is coming from. Best way is as follows: #1) Clean the area with Stoddard Solvent or something like that, #2) Spray the suspect area with "Lycoming Oil Leak Checker", also known as Foot Powder Spray at the local Walgreens aviation department. (Any good Lycoming Mechanic should have a couple cans of this stuff around). #3) If you have another person available, run the engine until the "leak checker" shows you EXACTLY where the leak is. Like Cy said, it might be a crack, but it might not. #4) Semetimes leaks that look like case leaks actually are not. Nose seals have a nasty habit of leaving everything dry, except for the lower front case halves where the oil drips/wicks down to. Heck, much of the time when the front seals start leaking, they leave the ring gear completely dry, but look like the case is leaking (this actually is a fairly common reason for oil appearing at the case halves up front). This would be my first area of inspection. Also, if you can get a small mirror under the flywheel and look at the front nose/main seal, you can probably tell if it's damp/wet or not. Note: your prop flange and flywheel may still be dry. Next, make sure the case halves are still torqued to where they should be. Might be a simple loose bolt or two. Only as a last resort would I split the case. Only if all of the above are 100% proven to not be the culprit would I consider splitting the engine. Sorry if this note came across harsh, I didn't mean too.... Cheers, Stein Bruch RV6's, Minneapolis -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Smcm75(at)aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: engine oil leak Andy: You probably have case fretting that could possibly result in spinning a bearing. The case needs to be split and remachined, line bored and the updated studs installed. You may as well do a major while you are at it ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: fiberglass tips rivet choice
Date: Sep 21, 2004
----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Oke" <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> Subject: Re: RV-List: fiberglass tips rivet choice > > The short answer is yes, maintenance is easier; but only if you have > maintenance to do that realistically requires taking off the wingtips. > Otherwise it is 50 to 60 little platenuts or similar to install and an > equal > number of #6 screws to fiddle with, plus added worries about corrosion, > water ingress and so on. This can add up to more maintenance and not less. > > Unless you feel the need to install antennas, strobe light power supplies > and the like in the wingtips, there should be almost no reason to want to > take the wingtips off. Most nav light and landing light installations do > not > require any special inside access if they are designed with this intent. > > This is a builders choice. I riveted my RV-3's wingtips on over 10 years > ago > and have felt no need to have done otherwise. My -6A's tips are likewise > riveted on per the plans with the CS4-4s. > > Jim Oke > RV-3, RV-6A > Wpg, MB > I concur. I installed the kajillion little platenuts and after the fact (and 3.5 years flying), I can't figure out why I went to the trouble. If you plan properly up front and don't damage the airplane, I can't think many good reasons to go the platenut route... If you do damage the airplane to the point where you need to remove a wing tip, drilling out a few dozen pop rivets will be the least of your concerns. KB ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 21, 2004
From: Hal / Carol Kempthorne <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: engine oil leak
We had an aluminum engine once that had a crack - in the oil pan of an Alfa Romeo, I believe. Tapped either side of the crack with a body pick and the leak went away! I'd be a little shy about this in the airplane, especially if the crack was thru an oil gallery. Or do Lycomings just splash? hal ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 21, 2004
From: Hal / Carol Kempthorne <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: fiberglass tips rivet choice
At 01:19 PM 9/21/2004, you wrote: >Gabe in South Florida wrote: >They make for good inspection ports and easy access to landing lights, >marker beacon antenna, angle of attack sensor, etc And for keeping an eye on the progress of corrosion? hal ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net>
Subject:
Date: Sep 21, 2004
> > Am planning on some aerobatic dual in my 8A, but worried > about my gyros. (full gyro panel) > Will it help any to disconnect vacuum and turn off electric > gyros? Other advice? > > Thanks. > > Jimmy > 8A Others will certainly disagree, but I believe non-spinning gyros won't be harmed by acro. Spinning gyros hitting their stops can't be good, while a dead gyro will just lazily wander around in its gimbals. The gyro shops will tell you to "just leave them spinning - it is better for them". What they don't tell you is who the "them" is. See http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/misc.htm for one possible way to control the suction. Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN RV6-A N66AP 525 hours http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rquinn1(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 21, 2004
Subject: Re: engine oil leak
Andy, We also had an oil leak that, even with the help of the experts, we could not locate. Then one of the best A&Ps came over and looked and said that I should cut my oil vent hose on such an angle that would give the case a slight vacuum. I did and the leak was cured. Rollie & Rod RV6A with about 86 hours (and a clean cowl) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fiveonepw(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 21, 2004
Subject: Re: PAINTING THE GAS TANK
In a message dated 09/20/2004 1:38:22 PM Central Standard Time, mstewart(at)iss.net writes: On my S8 tanks, I have sacrificial screws which are slightly loose, enough so that paint cant get underneath the head when sprayed, but loose enough that paint wont stick to the head and skin when removed. >>>>>>>> So after painting, how long do you wait before putting in the final screws and tightening them? (using PPG Concept w/CC, may vary by system...) Mark ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fiveonepw(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 21, 2004
Subject: Re: Panel Mount Compass
In a message dated 09/21/2004 11:49:11 AM Central Standard Time, Trainnut01(at)aol.com writes: However lately I have seen pictures of vertical card compasses mounted on the panel. Looks great but how well does it work? >>>>>>>> Got a PAI-700 mounted at top of panel between alt & a/s, directly above Microair comm & xpndr- doesn't respond to either radio & works great. Just don't set your headset on top of the panel when your tip-up is open! 8 ) Mark ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fiveonepw(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 21, 2004
Subject: Re: fiberglass tips rivet choice
In a message dated 09/21/2004 1:20:58 PM Central Standard Time, lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com writes: Here's a question from the truly ignorant. Why are the tips riveted on? Why not nutplates or Tinnerman nuts and screws? This would make maintenance a lot easier ..... I just wondered. >>>>>>>> Here's a suggestion for the truly daring- Use hinges to mount your wingtips, just like yer cowling- I can have my tips off in 5 minutes for whatever (Navaid/strobes/lights/ants/etc...) and NO "unsightly" screws with attendant traumatic paint concerns! Just a simple parting line. If you want more info or fotos, lemme know....... From The PossumWorks in TN Mark, 51PW "Deviant Behavior" 8 ) STILL waiting for paint.............................. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 21, 2004
From: Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Aircraft Wiring
Listers, I truly wish I had downloaded this easy to understand booklet "Aircraft Wiring for Smart People" before I started into that phase of my project. To my mind, the author did an excellent job of making the task much easier to comprehend than other documents I have attempted to read and he did it without leaning so heavily on theory, charts, formulas, etc. I have no connection with the company whatsoever, just passing along what I think is a valuable find. http://www.bluemountainavionics.com/download.php Rick Galati RV-6A N307R "finishing" ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "steve zicree" <szicree(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: engine oil leak
Date: Sep 21, 2004
Not much experience here regarding Lycomings, but I've built a whole bunch of motorcycle and VW engines over the years and I'd have to agree with Stein. Make absolutely sure where the oil is coming from. The foot spray thing works well for this. In my experience the leaks are rarely coming from where you first think and seals go bad a lot more often than cases crack. Having said all that, this thing takes you way up in the sky so be cautious. Steve Zicree ----- Original Message ----- From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> Subject: RE: RV-List: engine oil leak > > Hmmmm....could be right, but I'd surely explore the other possibilities > before doing a Major Overhaul!!! > > It's never that cut & dried with these Lycomings. A leak on the case > doesn't automatically mean that you major it, line bore it, et.al. > > Simple fact is that you need to clean it well first and make sure you know > exactly where the leak is coming from. Best way is as follows: > > #1) Clean the area with Stoddard Solvent or something like that, > #2) Spray the suspect area with "Lycoming Oil Leak Checker", also known as > Foot Powder Spray at the local Walgreens aviation department. (Any good > Lycoming Mechanic should have a couple cans of this stuff around). > #3) If you have another person available, run the engine until the "leak > checker" shows you EXACTLY where the leak is. Like Cy said, it might be a > crack, but it might not. > #4) Semetimes leaks that look like case leaks actually are not. Nose seals > have a nasty habit of leaving everything dry, except for the lower front > case halves where the oil drips/wicks down to. Heck, much of the time when > the front seals start leaking, they leave the ring gear completely dry, but > look like the case is leaking (this actually is a fairly common reason for > oil appearing at the case halves up front). This would be my first area of > inspection. Also, if you can get a small mirror under the flywheel and look > at the front nose/main seal, you can probably tell if it's damp/wet or not. > Note: your prop flange and flywheel may still be dry. > > Next, make sure the case halves are still torqued to where they should be. > Might be a simple loose bolt or two. > > Only as a last resort would I split the case. Only if all of the above are > 100% proven to not be the culprit would I consider splitting the engine. > > Sorry if this note came across harsh, I didn't mean too.... > > Cheers, > Stein Bruch > RV6's, Minneapolis > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Smcm75(at)aol.com > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: engine oil leak > > > Andy: > > You probably have case fretting that could possibly result in spinning a > bearing. The case needs to be split and remachined, line bored and the > updated > studs installed. You may as well do a major while you are at it > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fiveonepw(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 21, 2004
Subject: Re: fiberglass tips rivet choice
In a message dated 09/21/2004 4:28:49 PM Central Standard Time, wjoke(at)shaw.ca writes: there should be almost no reason to want to take the wingtips off. >>>> Not that you'd ever WANT to, but this is about the only way to remove your aileron pushtube, and possibly the easiest way to add/subtract/multiply wires to tip accesories! Also really cool for eyeballin' the wing innards come inspection time. Sheeeez, I've had mine off lots of times w/o pain- just comes in handy sometimes........ Mark ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 21, 2004
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: Aircraft Wiring
Rick Galati wrote: > > > Listers, > > I truly wish I had downloaded this easy to understand booklet > "Aircraft Wiring for Smart People" before I started into that phase > of my project. To my mind, the author did an excellent job of making > the task much easier to comprehend than other documents I have > attempted to read and he did it without leaning so heavily on theory, > charts, formulas, etc. I have no connection with the company > whatsoever, just passing along what I think is a valuable find. > > http://www.bluemountainavionics.com/download.php > > Rick Galati RV-6A N307R "finishing" I'm *not* taking sides on this issue, only wish to offer additional food for thought. Here is a critique of the above referenced article: http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Aircraft_Wiring_For_Smart_People_Reviewed.pdf There are several good ways to wire an airplane. The cool part is that we as experimental builders can do our homework, bounce around various opinions and ideas, make informed choices, and design our wiring architecture to be as simple or complex as we want it! Sam Buchanan ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Michael Hilger" <rvsixer(at)juno.com>
Date: Sep 22, 2004
Subject: Re: engine oil leak
Andy, I agree with Stein, also. When I overhauled my O-360 as my project was nearing completion, I had to split the case again after it was torqued up. The second time the crankshaft seal was installed I forgot to put sealer around the outside where it contacts the case. The resulting leak (the seal stayed in the case) was slight and just as Stein says the flywheel and prop flange were dry. The leak made itself known the same way yours has. A "normal" crankseal leak (between the crank and the seal) may well do the same. Mike Hilger RV-6 N207AM 620 hrs Get your name as your email address. Includes spam protection, 1GB storage, no ads and more Only $1.99/ month - visit http://www.mysite.com/name today! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "steve zicree" <szicree(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: fiberglass tips rivet choice
Date: Sep 21, 2004
Holy Cow!! This rivet/screw debate has got my head spinning. I think I've changed my mind five times in the last ten minutes while reading these posts. How about this for a compromise: Paint wings and tips separately to avoid havock in the unlikely event of removal, and then rivet on using aluminum mandrel rivets for reasonably easy drill-out if necessary. I now await the attacks from the "unfilled pop rivets are a sin against God and Nature" crowd. Steve Zicree ----- Original Message ----- From: <Fiveonepw(at)aol.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: fiberglass tips rivet choice > > In a message dated 09/21/2004 4:28:49 PM Central Standard Time, wjoke(at)shaw.ca > writes: > there should be almost no reason to want to > take the wingtips off. > >>>> > Not that you'd ever WANT to, but this is about the only way to remove your > aileron pushtube, and possibly the easiest way to add/subtract/multiply wires to > tip accesories! Also really cool for eyeballin' the wing innards come > inspection time. Sheeeez, I've had mine off lots of times w/o pain- just comes in > handy sometimes........ > > Mark > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: Aircraft Wiring
Date: Sep 21, 2004
Unfortunately I've learned the hard way that one can't objectively comment about things like that on this list (everything I say gets forwarded back to the author, mfg, etc.. by some idiot). Anyway, the only thing I found in the article that was absolutely wrong was this.... "We all know that Tefzel wire is white".......NOT TRUE! I have it in 9 colors and it can be had in more! The article also extoles the virtues of RG-142, while failing to mention that RG-400 (while EXACTLY the same price as RG-142) is at least superior in the fact that the center conductor is stranded (not solid as in RG-142) and is more resistant to vibration and bending. One last thing. Don't go blindly buying Teflon wire, becuase a large majority of it has a silver plated conductor. Also not the most attractive for vibration. Teflon coating is fine, but make sure the conductor is tin plated, not silver plated. Anyway, I'm forced to sit back and not comment further on this. I think Greg tried to do a good thing here and the article does provide a ton of good advice (plus....it's FREE)!! I also can't argue with Bob either -- He's forgot more about wiring planes than most people will ever know. Just my 2 cents! Cheers, Stein Bruch http://www.steinair.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sam Buchanan Subject: Re: RV-List: Aircraft Wiring Rick Galati wrote: > > > Listers, > > I truly wish I had downloaded this easy to understand booklet > "Aircraft Wiring for Smart People" before I started into that phase > of my project. To my mind, the author did an excellent job of making > the task much easier to comprehend than other documents I have > attempted to read and he did it without leaning so heavily on theory, > charts, formulas, etc. I have no connection with the company > whatsoever, just passing along what I think is a valuable find. > > http://www.bluemountainavionics.com/download.php > > Rick Galati RV-6A N307R "finishing" I'm *not* taking sides on this issue, only wish to offer additional food for thought. Here is a critique of the above referenced article: http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Aircraft_Wiring_For_Smart_People_Review ed.pdf There are several good ways to wire an airplane. The cool part is that we as experimental builders can do our homework, bounce around various opinions and ideas, make informed choices, and design our wiring architecture to be as simple or complex as we want it! Sam Buchanan ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Comeaux" <mcomeaux(at)bendnet.com>
Subject: Need Help
Date: Sep 21, 2004
Trying to find a RV8 with the Number of N888FP I looked up at the landings site only to find registration pending to someone in Georgia. Aircraft was assembled by Blue Sky Aviation in Montana and sold to a private party Appox 6 months ago. Respond off list to: Mike Comeaux mcomeaux(at)bendnet.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 22, 2004
From: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Aircraft Wiring
Have to add my $0.02. Teflon is NOT a good insulation coating to use unless you treat it with care. It cold flows. If you have a wire bundle that you have clamped or otherwise held a little too tightly, the teflon will eventually cold flow and you will get shorts between wires. On the other hand, I don't know what Stein has against silver plated wires. When you solder or crimp them to connector pins it makes little difference what the copper is or is not plated with. The solder or crimp makes a gas tight connection in any case. The only problem I have found with silver plated wires is that they are a little hard to solder if they have been sitting around for awhile (with the ends stripped - the part under the insulation is no problem). The exposed silver tarnishes and makes it hard to solder. Bare copper also does the same. Tin plated copper doesn't do that. On the other hand, just buy tin plated Tefzel and avoid all the potential problems. By the way, Steinair has good prices and his service is top notch. The bottom line with this whole thing is that you should always take anything you read with a grain of salt. Learn/read all you can and form your own conclusions. Everyone has their own opinions and experiences and YMMV. Dick Tasker Stein Bruch wrote: > >Unfortunately I've learned the hard way that one can't objectively comment >about things like that on this list (everything I say gets forwarded back to >the author, mfg, etc.. by some idiot). > >Anyway, the only thing I found in the article that was absolutely wrong was >this.... > >"We all know that Tefzel wire is white".......NOT TRUE! I have it in 9 >colors and it can be had in more! >The article also extoles the virtues of RG-142, while failing to mention >that RG-400 (while EXACTLY the same price as RG-142) is at least superior in >the fact that the center conductor is stranded (not solid as in RG-142) and >is more resistant to vibration and bending. > >One last thing. Don't go blindly buying Teflon wire, becuase a large >majority of it has a silver plated conductor. Also not the most attractive >for vibration. Teflon coating is fine, but make sure the conductor is tin >plated, not silver plated. > >Anyway, I'm forced to sit back and not comment further on this. I think >Greg tried to do a good thing here and the article does provide a ton of >good advice (plus....it's FREE)!! I also can't argue with Bob either -- He's >forgot more about wiring planes than most people will ever know. > >Just my 2 cents! > >Cheers, >Stein Bruch >http://www.steinair.com > > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sam Buchanan >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: Aircraft Wiring > > >Rick Galati wrote: > > >> >> >>Listers, >> >>I truly wish I had downloaded this easy to understand booklet >>"Aircraft Wiring for Smart People" before I started into that phase >>of my project. To my mind, the author did an excellent job of making >>the task much easier to comprehend than other documents I have >>attempted to read and he did it without leaning so heavily on theory, >>charts, formulas, etc. I have no connection with the company >>whatsoever, just passing along what I think is a valuable find. >> >>http://www.bluemountainavionics.com/download.php >> >>Rick Galati RV-6A N307R "finishing" >> >> > > >I'm *not* taking sides on this issue, only wish to offer additional food >for thought. Here is a critique of the above referenced article: > >http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Aircraft_Wiring_For_Smart_People_Review >ed.pdf > >There are several good ways to wire an airplane. The cool part is that >we as experimental builders can do our homework, bounce around various >opinions and ideas, make informed choices, and design our wiring >architecture to be as simple or complex as we want it! > >Sam Buchanan > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 22, 2004
Subject: Re: Aircraft Wiring
In a message dated 9/21/2004 9:12:58 PM Pacific Daylight Time, retasker(at)optonline.net writes: The exposed silver tarnishes and makes it hard to solder. Bare copper also does the same. Tin plated copper doesn't do that. ============================== However, Tin finishes have the unfortunate tendency to spontaneously grow whiskers, so I personally would always prefer Silver plating over Tin. Punch "Tin Whiskers" into any search engine and find a bunch of info on this subject from the military electronics realm. PTFE (Teflon) is extruded and sintered over the wire at high temperature so Silver plating the strands works better here than Tin. Having said that, all of the wiring in the Bradley is Spec44, which is a Tin plated polyalkene insulated wire. GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 719 hrs) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 22, 2004
From: "Jim.Truitt(at)usdoj.gov" <Jim.Truitt(at)usdoj.gov>
Subject: RV-List Digest: 49 Msgs - 09/21/04 -Reply
(Receipt Notification Requested) I have been temporarily assigned to a new task force in Indianapolis effective September 22, 2004. All of my fugitive cases have been reassigned to other task force members. If you need to contact the officer assigned to a case, contact Jim Enea at (317) 226-7116 (office) or (317) 281-7502 (cell). For contact concerning a new fugitive case, or collateral leads, contact Supervisor Tom Cassels at (317) 226-6059 or Brian Aldridge at (317) 226-0255. I will check my email and voice mail periodically during this period, or I can be contacted at (317) 281-7503. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 22, 2004
From: Doug Gray <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au>
Subject: Re: Aircraft Wiring
Silver or Nickle plated conductors generally have a 200 degree C max temeperature rating. Tin plated conductors are limited to 150 C. High temps will cause the tin to melt.... ETFE (Tefzel) is more operator friendly and cheaper than PTFE. Both are generally extruded but sometimes wrapped as strips arount the conductors. Both will cold flow. PTFE is a pain because very sharp tooling is necessary to strip the wire, and it takes a skilled operator to avoid cut or nicked strands. It also seems to bond tenaceously to the wire. (At least it is my experience) I do not have the data sheets at hand but IIRC both are equal and remarkable in their ability to withstand environmental duress. Doug Gray > However, Tin finishes have the unfortunate tendency to spontaneously grow > whiskers, so I personally would always prefer Silver plating over Tin. Punch > "Tin Whiskers" into any search engine and find a bunch of info on this subject > from the military electronics realm. > > PTFE (Teflon) is extruded and sintered over the wire at high temperature so > Silver plating the strands works better here than Tin. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 22, 2004
From: Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: Tuft Testing the RV wing
> >About the tufts - I'm almost amazed at how the tufts behind the fuel tank >(and the line just outboard of tank) show totally separated airflow all the >way to the front, while the others are straight all the way aft. > - I wonder if there is something tripping the airflow abnormally in the >inboard half of the wing? Wouldn't think it was prop-wash or landing gear >down below. This is characteristic of low aspect ratio non-tapered wings. There is upflow ahead of the wing (assuming subsonic speeds, so the air knows we are coming), which increases the local angle of attack. The amount of upflow is greatest at the wing root, and decreases as you go outboard. Thus the local angle of attack is greatest at the wing root, and decreases towards the wing tip. This causes the stall to start at the wing root, and to progressively move outboard as the angle of attack increases. This is a good characteristic, as it means we get a softer stall than if the whole wing stalled at once, and we maintain good aileron control right up to the stall. These two movies (URLs corrected) clearly show the stall starting inboard, and moving outboard as the angle of attack is increased: http://www.miramarcollege.net/programs/avim/faculty/north/tufttests/tuft%20testing%20RV6%20stalls%20054.mov http://www.miramarcollege.net/programs/avim/faculty/north/tufttests/tuft%20testing%20RV6%20stalls%20055.mov Those two URLs will almost certainly be chopped into two lines. Copy and paste as required to get them working. -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit) Ottawa, Canada http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: PAINTING THE GAS TANK
Date: Sep 22, 2004
From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net>
System does not matter. Drying time + anytime you want. Since the sacrificial screw is not stuck to the surface (meaning not screwed down tight but left raised from the surface) when painting, it can be removed anytime. A hair of overspray gets under the screw head which is say... 1/16th raised from the surface when painting. This makes sure there is no line showing when a final painted screw is inserted (can be the scarification screw too) but not enough paint is under the screw to chip it when putting the screw in, or taking it out later. I call the sacrificial screw that because it might get buggered up screwing in and out. But most of mine made it successfully through the entire process correctly. But after taking the tanks off many times with them, some did need to be replaced in the end. Screws can easily be painted by sticking them into a flat piece of cardboard to be painted. Keeps em from flying around while being shot. Paint lots of extras, you will need them. Mike -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fiveonepw(at)aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: PAINTING THE GAS TANK In a message dated 09/20/2004 1:38:22 PM Central Standard Time, mstewart(at)iss.net writes: On my S8 tanks, I have sacrificial screws which are slightly loose, enough so that paint cant get underneath the head when sprayed, but loose enough that paint wont stick to the head and skin when removed. >>>>>>>> So after painting, how long do you wait before putting in the final screws and tightening them? (using PPG Concept w/CC, may vary by system...) Mark = = = = ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 22, 2004
From: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Aircraft Wiring
Gary, Thanks for weighing in on this subject. I'm unfamiliar with Spec 44 or polyalkene insulation. Could you expand on the characteristics of this insulation? Charlie Kuss > > >In a message dated 9/21/2004 9:12:58 PM Pacific Daylight Time, >retasker(at)optonline.net writes: > >The exposed silver >tarnishes and makes it hard to solder. Bare copper also does the same. >Tin plated copper doesn't do that. > > >============================== > >However, Tin finishes have the unfortunate tendency to spontaneously grow >whiskers, so I personally would always prefer Silver plating over >Tin. Punch >"Tin Whiskers" into any search engine and find a bunch of info on >this subject >from the military electronics realm. > >PTFE (Teflon) is extruded and sintered over the wire at high temperature so >Silver plating the strands works better here than Tin. > >Having said that, all of the wiring in the Bradley is Spec44, which is a Tin >plated polyalkene insulated wire. > >GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 719 hrs) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 22, 2004
From: linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Aircraft Wiring
Here's the best hints I can give y'all on teflon or tefzel coated wire. I don't know which is better, silver or tin coated or bare copper. They all work. 1. Use a good quality 'automatic stripper' and use the correct 'hole' ...... you need to know the wire size. Cheap strippers won't grip the wire very well and won't pull off the insulation. A razor blade will work here also, but change often. 2. Do you know those rubber boots over alligator clips??? I mean the heavy duty ones, not the stuff on Radio Shack clip leads. If your automatic stripper doesn't pull the insulation all the way off or you use the razor blade, poke the wire up into the small end of the clip lead insulator, squeeze tight (your fingers work OK here) and pull the insulation off. This, so far, is the best insulation remover I've found. Linn Doug Gray wrote: > >Silver or Nickle plated conductors generally have a 200 degree C max temeperature rating. >Tin plated conductors are limited to 150 C. High temps will cause the tin to melt.... > >ETFE (Tefzel) is more operator friendly and cheaper than PTFE. Both are generally extruded but >sometimes wrapped as strips arount the conductors. Both will cold flow. > >PTFE is a pain because very sharp tooling is necessary to strip the wire, and it takes a skilled >operator to avoid cut or nicked strands. It also seems to bond tenaceously to the wire. (At least it >is my experience) > >I do not have the data sheets at hand but IIRC both are equal and remarkable in their ability to >withstand environmental duress. > >Doug Gray > > > >>However, Tin finishes have the unfortunate tendency to spontaneously grow >>whiskers, so I personally would always prefer Silver plating over Tin. Punch >>"Tin Whiskers" into any search engine and find a bunch of info on this subject >>from the military electronics realm. >> >>PTFE (Teflon) is extruded and sintered over the wire at high temperature so >>Silver plating the strands works better here than Tin. >> >> >> > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sims, Doug" <Doug.Sims(at)danahermotion.com>
Subject: Aircraft Wiring
Date: Sep 22, 2004
Strobe Grounding question-- I am wiring my strobe power supply in my rv8 and have it located where the rear battery installation would be located. What is the best way to ground the system. I have it bonded locally on the airframe but question whether I should run it back to the common single point grount location. Doug RV8 Virginia -----Original Message----- From: linn walters [mailto:lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com] Subject: Re: RV-List: Aircraft Wiring Here's the best hints I can give y'all on teflon or tefzel coated wire. I don't know which is better, silver or tin coated or bare copper. They all work. 1. Use a good quality 'automatic stripper' and use the correct 'hole' ..... you need to know the wire size. Cheap strippers won't grip the wire very well and won't pull off the insulation. A razor blade will work here also, but change often. 2. Do you know those rubber boots over alligator clips??? I mean the heavy duty ones, not the stuff on Radio Shack clip leads. If your automatic stripper doesn't pull the insulation all the way off or you use the razor blade, poke the wire up into the small end of the clip lead insulator, squeeze tight (your fingers work OK here) and pull the insulation off. This, so far, is the best insulation remover I've found. Linn Doug Gray wrote: > >Silver or Nickle plated conductors generally have a 200 degree C max temeperature rating. >Tin plated conductors are limited to 150 C. High temps will cause the tin to melt.... > >ETFE (Tefzel) is more operator friendly and cheaper than PTFE. Both are generally extruded but >sometimes wrapped as strips arount the conductors. Both will cold flow. > >PTFE is a pain because very sharp tooling is necessary to strip the wire, and it takes a skilled >operator to avoid cut or nicked strands. It also seems to bond tenaceously to the wire. (At least it >is my experience) > >I do not have the data sheets at hand but IIRC both are equal and remarkable in their ability to >withstand environmental duress. > >Doug Gray > > > >>However, Tin finishes have the unfortunate tendency to spontaneously grow >>whiskers, so I personally would always prefer Silver plating over Tin. Punch >>"Tin Whiskers" into any search engine and find a bunch of info on this subject >>from the military electronics realm. >> >>PTFE (Teflon) is extruded and sintered over the wire at high temperature so >>Silver plating the strands works better here than Tin. >> >> >> > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 22, 2004
From: Jim Duckett <perfeng(at)3rivers.net>
Subject: Paint
Hi Glen, That was me. The product line is Urotec (prefix AUE) produced by PPG. It is their Commercial Coatings line. It is a single stage acrylic urethane system. They also offer tinted primer in the same line. The primer looks almost as good as the top coat. Jim Duckett ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim & Bev Cone" <jimnbev(at)olypen.com>
Subject: Re: Aircraft Wiring
Date: Sep 22, 2004
There is also a very interesting rebuttal of the critique on the Blue Mountain Discussion Board. Jim Cone 3-Peat Offender ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Suffoletto" <rsuffoletto(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Hole for canopy latch
Date: Sep 22, 2004
The answer to this question may be obvious but I thought I would ask anyway. The directions say to drill a 5/8 hole for the canopy latch, however, the canopy frame handle mount will not fit through a 5/8 hole. I am assuming it has to go through this hole and does not rest on the inside of the canopy. Perhaps the thickness of the powder coating needs to be allowed for. Can someone clarify for me? Can't be too careful when dealing with the canopy. Thanks Richard ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 22, 2004
From: Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Hole for canopy latch
It needs to go through. I guess they assume that after you drill the 5/8" hole and then use sandpaper to religiously smooth out the inside of the hole, it will be big enough - mine was anyway. Dick Tasker Richard Suffoletto wrote: > > >The answer to this question may be obvious but I thought I would ask anyway. The directions say to drill a 5/8 hole for the canopy latch, however, the canopy frame handle mount will not fit through a 5/8 hole. I am assuming it has to go through this hole and does not rest on the inside of the canopy. Perhaps the thickness of the powder coating needs to be allowed for. > >Can someone clarify for me? > >Can't be too careful when dealing with the canopy. > >Thanks > >Richard > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 22, 2004
From: Mike Nellis <mike(at)bmnellis.com>
Subject: Re: Aircraft Wiring
And the link would be????? Jim & Bev Cone wrote: > >There is also a very interesting rebuttal of the critique on the Blue Mountain Discussion Board. > >Jim Cone >3-Peat Offender > > > > -- Mike Nellis Austin, TX CMRA #32 Honda RC51 '97 YZF1000 '47 Stinson 108-2; RV6 (Fuselage) http://bmnellis.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "lancenewman" <lancenewman(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: alternators
Date: Sep 22, 2004
You can put a blister in the coweling to accomidate the alternator, or get a shorter belt and or trim the mounting arm. The alternator vans sells is the 1987 Suzuki Samari alternator. 55 amp output internally regulated. Internal cooling fans and handles the 7000 rpm turn rate without overheating. Also is small and fits the coweling without a blister. 189.00 at any auto parts store. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Shirley Harding" <shirleyh(at)argo.net.au> Subject: RV-List: alternators > > Hi all -- any photos or advice on an alternator set-up for an RV6. I've got the Vans brackets and a Bosch alternator but it seems to hit the lower cowl. > > Cheers > Shirley > > RV6 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 23, 2004
Subject: Re: Aircraft Wiring
In a message dated 9/22/2004 4:39:02 AM Pacific Daylight Time, chaztuna(at)adelphia.net writes: Thanks for weighing in on this subject. I'm unfamiliar with Spec 44 or polyalkene insulation. Could you expand on the characteristics of this insulation? ===================================== Some info at _http://www.raychem.com/resources/documents/datasheets/Wire_and_Cable/Spec44wc.pdf_ (http://www.raychem.com/resources/documents/datasheets/Wire_and_Cable/Spec44wc.pdf) GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 719 hrs) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave" <dave(at)coltnet.net>
Subject: IO-360 with a Bernie Warnke prop
Date: Sep 22, 2004
Listers, Just purchased a firewall forward IO-360 core with Bernie Warnke prop included. Is Warnke Airproducts still in business? I found their website, however the phone number list is no longer in service. Is it possible to find out if it is still air worthy? If it isn't I think I will refinish it and put it above my fireplace before my wife changes her mind. I didn't find anything recent in the archives. I plan on putting the engine on an RV-8. Haven't decided which prop to use. Thanks Dave ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 23, 2004
From: "Jim.Truitt(at)usdoj.gov" <Jim.Truitt(at)usdoj.gov>
Subject: RV-List Digest: 17 Msgs - 09/22/04 -Reply
(Receipt Notification Requested) I have been temporarily assigned to a new task force in Indianapolis effective September 22, 2004. All of my fugitive cases have been reassigned to other task force members. If you need to contact the officer assigned to a case, contact Jim Enea at (317) 226-7116 (office) or (317) 281-7502 (cell). For contact concerning a new fugitive case, or collateral leads, contact Supervisor Tom Cassels at (317) 226-6059 or Brian Aldridge at (317) 226-0255. I will check my email and voice mail periodically during this period, or I can be contacted at (317) 281-7503. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 23, 2004
From: Doug Gray <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au>
Subject: Re: Aircraft Wiring
A quick check of the data tells me that there are two major variants of Teflon: TFE Teflon - is good to 260 C max temperature. It also requires very high pressures for extrusion so special hydraulic ram machines are necessary. FEP Teflon - is good to 200 C, and may be extruded in conventional machines (auger/screw type feed) Tefzel has a max temperature rating of 150 C Nickel plated conductors are good to 260 C. Silver plated conductors to 200 C. > > Silver or Nickel plated conductors generally have a 200 degree C max temeperature rating. > Tin plated conductors are limited to 150 C. High temps will cause the tin to melt.... > > ETFE (Tefzel) is more operator friendly and cheaper than PTFE. Both are generally extruded but > sometimes wrapped as strips arount the conductors. Both will cold flow. > > PTFE is a pain because very sharp tooling is necessary to strip the wire, and it takes a skilled > operator to avoid cut or nicked strands. It also seems to bond tenaceously to the wire. (At least it > is my experience) > > I do not have the data sheets at hand but IIRC both are equal and remarkable in their ability to > withstand environmental duress. > > Doug Gray > > >>However, Tin finishes have the unfortunate tendency to spontaneously grow >>whiskers, so I personally would always prefer Silver plating over Tin. Punch >>"Tin Whiskers" into any search engine and find a bunch of info on this subject >>from the military electronics realm. >> >>PTFE (Teflon) is extruded and sintered over the wire at high temperature so >>Silver plating the strands works better here than Tin. >> > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Figgins" <2004nospam(at)earthlink.net>
Subject:
Date: Sep 23, 2004
Getting to end of empennage and wrestling with the next step, QB is attractive but a lot more money (particularly when you add the shipping etc) and it also appears you have to order both wing and fuselage at the same time as they are a matched set, unfortunately the web site also says you have to order both items at the same time if you want to go partial QB (i.e. QB wings and standard fuselage or QB fuse and standard wings) which were options I was considering as a balance of cost (paid incrementally over time) and build time. Do I understand the web information correctly? Also if the partial QB is chosen, given a choice of standard wing or standard fuselage which would be more practical considering I am working by myself (no riveting helper at this time for example) in garage. Thanks Dave RV-7 Empennage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ben Cunningham" <benandginny(at)insightbb.com>
Subject: Re: Aircraft Wiring
Date: Sep 23, 2004
The wiring booklet critique is at www.bluemountainavionics.com under the discussion groups installation tab. Pretty good rebuttal by electric Bob. Ben Cunningham RV7 finish kit ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim & Bev Cone" <jimnbev(at)olypen.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Aircraft Wiring > > There is also a very interesting rebuttal of the critique on the Blue Mountain Discussion Board. > > Jim Cone > 3-Peat Offender > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 23, 2004
From: Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List:
David Figgins wrote: > >Getting to end of empennage and wrestling with the next step, QB is >attractive but a lot more money (particularly when you add the >shipping etc) and it also appears you have to order both wing and >fuselage at the same time as they are a matched set, unfortunately the >web site also says you have to order both items at the same time if you want >to go partial QB (i.e. >QB wings and standard fuselage or QB fuse and standard wings) which >were options I was considering as a balance of cost (paid >incrementally over >time) and build time. Do I understand the web information correctly? >Also if the partial QB is chosen, given a choice of standard wing or >standard fuselage which would be more practical considering I am >working by myself (no riveting helper at this time for example) in garage. >Thanks > >Dave RV-7 Empennage > > > Unless things have changed, you do not have to order both at the same time. I did slow wings and QB fuse. I did have to send my center section that came with the wings back, when I ordered the QB fuse. You would probably, be better off doing QB wings and slow fuse. I say that because the wings are just about complete as QB, I think you put on one bottom skin on each wing. The QB fuse still has alot of things to do to it. You will need help on the slow build wings both with the skins and the tanks. Bad thing about ordering the QB wings and the slow build fuse later is you will not have anything to do while saving money for the slow fuse. I'm not sure if you can order slow fuse now and QB wings later, if you can that would be better. I'd call Vans and ask. -- Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/ RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Figgins" <2004nospam(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Sep 23, 2004
Subject: RE: RV-List:
This is what I was thinking (slow build fuselage and QB wings later) as there is a lot that can be done on the fuselage and from what I have read the QB wings do not take long and you get straight wings and surfaces, this would also help with storage in the garage. Next is call to van's. Can one person build the fuselage?? -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bobby Hester Subject: Re: RV-List: David Figgins wrote: >--> <2004nospam(at)earthlink.net> > >Getting to end of empennage and wrestling with the next step, QB is >attractive but a lot more money (particularly when you add the shipping >etc) and it also appears you have to order both wing and fuselage at >the same time as they are a matched set, unfortunately the web site >also says you have to order both items at the same time if you want to >go partial QB (i.e. >QB wings and standard fuselage or QB fuse and standard wings) which >were options I was considering as a balance of cost (paid incrementally >over >time) and build time. Do I understand the web information correctly? >Also if the partial QB is chosen, given a choice of standard wing or >standard fuselage which would be more practical considering I am >working by myself (no riveting helper at this time for example) in garage. >Thanks > >Dave RV-7 Empennage > > > Unless things have changed, you do not have to order both at the same time. I did slow wings and QB fuse. I did have to send my center section that came with the wings back, when I ordered the QB fuse. You would probably, be better off doing QB wings and slow fuse. I say that because the wings are just about complete as QB, I think you put on one bottom skin on each wing. The QB fuse still has alot of things to do to it. You will need help on the slow build wings both with the skins and the tanks. Bad thing about ordering the QB wings and the slow build fuse later is you will not have anything to do while saving money for the slow fuse. I'm not sure if you can order slow fuse now and QB wings later, if you can that would be better. I'd call Vans and ask. -- Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/ RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim & Bev Cone" <jimnbev(at)olypen.com>
Subject: Re: Aircraft Wiring
Date: Sep 23, 2004
The link is: http://www.bluemountainavionics.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "steve zicree" <szicree(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List:
Date: Sep 23, 2004
I built my entire slow build rv4 fuse by myself except for the very end, when I stuffed my girlfriend into the tail cone to buck a few rivets (see attached picture). Otherwise, it can all be done solo. Steve Zicree ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Figgins" <2004nospam(at)earthlink.net> Subject: RE: RV-List: > > This is what I was thinking (slow build fuselage and QB wings later) as > there is a lot that can be done on the fuselage and from what I have read > the QB wings do not take long and you get straight wings and surfaces, this > would also help with storage in the garage. Next is call to van's. Can one > person build the fuselage?? > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bobby Hester > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: > > > David Figgins wrote: > > >--> <2004nospam(at)earthlink.net> > > > >Getting to end of empennage and wrestling with the next step, QB is > >attractive but a lot more money (particularly when you add the shipping > >etc) and it also appears you have to order both wing and fuselage at > >the same time as they are a matched set, unfortunately the web site > >also says you have to order both items at the same time if you want to > >go partial QB (i.e. > >QB wings and standard fuselage or QB fuse and standard wings) which > >were options I was considering as a balance of cost (paid incrementally > >over > >time) and build time. Do I understand the web information correctly? > >Also if the partial QB is chosen, given a choice of standard wing or > >standard fuselage which would be more practical considering I am > >working by myself (no riveting helper at this time for example) in garage. > >Thanks > > > >Dave RV-7 Empennage > > > > > > > Unless things have changed, you do not have to order both at the same time. > I did slow wings and QB fuse. I did have to send my center section that came > with the wings back, when I ordered the QB fuse. You would probably, be > better off doing QB wings and slow fuse. I say that because the wings are > just about complete as QB, I think you put on one bottom skin on each wing. > The QB fuse still has alot of things to do to it. You will need help on the > slow build wings both with the skins and the tanks. Bad thing about ordering > the QB wings and the slow build fuse later is you will not have anything to > do while saving money for the slow fuse. I'm not sure if you can order slow > fuse now and QB wings later, if you can that would be better. I'd call Vans > and ask. > > -- > Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY > Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/ > RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Figgins" <2004nospam(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Sep 23, 2004
Subject: RE: RV-List:
I did check with Van's and their suggestion if I wanted to build the fuselage first (due to the matched drilling of the fuselage center section and wing spars) was to order slow build fuselage with the wing spar which they would match drill and hold until the QB wing was ordered and then incorporate the spar into QB wings (and credit the spar cost against the QB wing price), drilled fuselage center section would then be delivered with the fuselage standard kit. Seems like a reasonable compromise of cost and build time. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of steve zicree Subject: Re: RV-List: I built my entire slow build rv4 fuse by myself except for the very end, when I stuffed my girlfriend into the tail cone to buck a few rivets (see attached picture). Otherwise, it can all be done solo. Steve Zicree ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Figgins" <2004nospam(at)earthlink.net> Subject: RE: RV-List: > > This is what I was thinking (slow build fuselage and QB wings later) as > there is a lot that can be done on the fuselage and from what I have read > the QB wings do not take long and you get straight wings and surfaces, this > would also help with storage in the garage. Next is call to van's. Can one > person build the fuselage?? > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bobby Hester > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: > > > David Figgins wrote: > > >--> <2004nospam(at)earthlink.net> > > > >Getting to end of empennage and wrestling with the next step, QB is > >attractive but a lot more money (particularly when you add the shipping > >etc) and it also appears you have to order both wing and fuselage at > >the same time as they are a matched set, unfortunately the web site > >also says you have to order both items at the same time if you want to > >go partial QB (i.e. > >QB wings and standard fuselage or QB fuse and standard wings) which > >were options I was considering as a balance of cost (paid incrementally > >over > >time) and build time. Do I understand the web information correctly? > >Also if the partial QB is chosen, given a choice of standard wing or > >standard fuselage which would be more practical considering I am > >working by myself (no riveting helper at this time for example) in garage. > >Thanks > > > >Dave RV-7 Empennage > > > > > > > Unless things have changed, you do not have to order both at the same time. > I did slow wings and QB fuse. I did have to send my center section that came > with the wings back, when I ordered the QB fuse. You would probably, be > better off doing QB wings and slow fuse. I say that because the wings are > just about complete as QB, I think you put on one bottom skin on each wing. > The QB fuse still has alot of things to do to it. You will need help on the > slow build wings both with the skins and the tanks. Bad thing about ordering > the QB wings and the slow build fuse later is you will not have anything to > do while saving money for the slow fuse. I'm not sure if you can order slow > fuse now and QB wings later, if you can that would be better. I'd call Vans > and ask. > > -- > Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY > Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/ > RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: paint
Date: Sep 23, 2004
Thanks guys for the on and off line responses! Glen ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Oldsfolks(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 23, 2004
Subject: Re: Tuft testing pics
I got the pics OK. Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor Charleston,Arkansas Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Wiegenstein" <n727jw(at)hellerwiegenstein.com>
Subject: Lycoming Power Settings and Break-In Techniques
Date: Sep 23, 2004
Listers, I have a new O-360-A1A and the Hartzell "blended airfoil" C/S prop on my -6, now with 5 hours flight time. Couple more questions have come up: 1. I have Kevin Horton's Excel spreadsheet for the O-360-A series, and its a good tool, but does anyone have a decent hard copy of the factory power setting charts? I cannot believe that Lycoming sells you a $23,000 engine and then gives you operational documentation that is so pathetic it is outclassed by that which comes with a (Honda lawnmower from Home Depot. 2. I'm trying to keep power settings at 75% or better as much as I can, but this means cruising around a lot at pretty good speeds. Problem is I'd also like to do more pattern work, to get better at managing the C/S prop and its noteworthy braking effect and resulting power-off descent rate on approach, plus get more comfortable with aircraft control and power application on takeoff (it is NOT a 172, that's for sure). This kind of flying seems to conflict with desired engine break-in techniques. Any suggestions on how to balance these two goals? TIA John H. Wiegenstein HELLER WIEGENSTEIN PLLC 19301 - 8th Ave. NE, Suite A Poulsbo, WA 98370 (360) 394-3500 (360) 394-3503 FAX johnw(at)hellerwiegenstein.com www.hellerwiegenstein.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Fuselage jig for sale
Date: Sep 23, 2004
From: <Clay.Killion(at)infineon.com>
Hello RV listers: I have a wood fuselage jig for sale in Phoenix AZ. It's assembled with dry wall screws.... so it could be disassembled for transport. Also it should be possible to alter as to allow RV3 or 4 fuselage construction. Mine is the 3rd RV6 fuselage to have been built using it and I believe it still has enough integrity/strength for another project. Asking $160.00. Interested?.... call this weekend at (602)957-3612 and leave a message....or respond using my email address. I'm at Deer Valley Airport 41-03. Clay Killion RV6 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 23, 2004
From: Mike Nellis <mike(at)bmnellis.com>
Subject: Re: Aircraft Wiring
Bob wrote the critique, Greg wrote the rebuttle. Ben Cunningham wrote: > >The wiring booklet critique is at www.bluemountainavionics.com under the >discussion groups installation tab. Pretty good rebuttal by electric Bob. > >Ben Cunningham >RV7 finish kit > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Jim & Bev Cone" <jimnbev(at)olypen.com> >To: >Subject: Re: RV-List: Aircraft Wiring > > > > >> >>There is also a very interesting rebuttal of the critique on the Blue >> >> >Mountain Discussion Board. > > >>Jim Cone >>3-Peat Offender >> >> >> >> > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net>
Subject: Re: Lycoming Power Settings and Break-In Techniques
Date: Sep 23, 2004
Hi John: This is a hard one, the recognized way to break this engine in is to run at 75% ( 2400 & 24 inches) give or take until the oil consumption stabilizes.This combined with careful control of the cylinder head temperatures (gradual cooling on the descents) will give the best long term cylinder life and oil consumption. I can only suggest that you keep circuit work to a minimum until the break-in is complete, this can happen in as little as ten hours. Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C. ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Wiegenstein" <n727jw(at)hellerwiegenstein.com> Subject: RV-List: Lycoming Power Settings and Break-In Techniques > > Listers, I have a new O-360-A1A and the Hartzell "blended airfoil" C/S prop > on my -6, now with 5 hours flight time. Couple more questions have come up: > 1. I have Kevin Horton's Excel spreadsheet for the O-360-A series, and its > a good tool, but does anyone have a decent hard copy of the factory power > setting charts? I cannot believe that Lycoming sells you a $23,000 engine > and then gives you operational documentation that is so pathetic it is > outclassed by that which comes with a (Honda lawnmower from Home Depot. > 2. I'm trying to keep power settings at 75% or better as much as I can, but > this means cruising around a lot at pretty good speeds. Problem is I'd > also like to do more pattern work, to get better at managing the C/S prop > and its noteworthy braking effect and resulting power-off descent rate on > approach, plus get more comfortable with aircraft control and power > application on takeoff (it is NOT a 172, that's for sure). This kind of > flying seems to conflict with desired engine break-in techniques. Any > suggestions on how to balance these two goals? TIA > John H. Wiegenstein > HELLER WIEGENSTEIN PLLC > 19301 - 8th Ave. NE, Suite A > Poulsbo, WA 98370 > (360) 394-3500 > (360) 394-3503 FAX > johnw(at)hellerwiegenstein.com > www.hellerwiegenstein.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Glide Characteristics
Date: Sep 23, 2004
Has anyone done power off (prop stopped) glide testing on their RV-6 or RV-7? I was doing some airwork today and tried to simulate an engine out no flaps landing, and the airplane simply didn't want to come down. With the engine at idle, the rate of descent was only 350 FPM, which tells me that my high pitched prop was still generating some thrust. Does an engine idling glide with half flaps provide a good representation of the glide with no flaps and the prop stopped? How about full flaps? My goal here is to get a feel for what the airplane's performance would be if I actually suffered an engine out event. By the way, I'm not brave enough these days to do the actual engine out routine... ;-) Thanks in advance, KB ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: Glide Characteristics
Date: Sep 23, 2004
Hi Kyle, Even with my FP Sensenich, I can easily do power off glides (with the engine idling) and flaps up/down, and can easily manage the descent from around 350fpm like you say, all the way down to 1200-1500fpm if need be. The best way to come down (fast) is to slow down - wayyy down. If you keep that nose up in the air and the airspeed down, she'll start falling like a manhole cover. Add a full rudder slip to it and you should easily see 1200-1500fpm. I know this is possible with the flap up, because those of us lucky enough to have one of those "Piecie of #%$ " flap motors (that Van's refused to replace) had the opportunity to land the plane more than once with no flaps (even on my short little grass runway). I also shut my engine off one day at about 10K and messed around above the airport for about 5K'. I also saw similar numbers to what I mentioned above. Also to note, those of us that keep our planes on grass runways that are not super long with trees over the approach end get used to those steep approaches, and even with a FP prop it's not that big of a problem, just no 300-500fpm shallow "carrier" approaches! I do a lot of approaches down in with a slip all the way into the flare........ Just the experience in my FP plane. Cheers, Stein Bruch RV6's, Minneapolis -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kyle Boatright Subject: RV-List: Glide Characteristics Has anyone done power off (prop stopped) glide testing on their RV-6 or RV-7? I was doing some airwork today and tried to simulate an engine out no flaps landing, and the airplane simply didn't want to come down. With the engine at idle, the rate of descent was only 350 FPM, which tells me that my high pitched prop was still generating some thrust. Does an engine idling glide with half flaps provide a good representation of the glide with no flaps and the prop stopped? How about full flaps? My goal here is to get a feel for what the airplane's performance would be if I actually suffered an engine out event. By the way, I'm not brave enough these days to do the actual engine out routine... ;-) Thanks in advance, KB ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Common Reamer Sizes
From: "" <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com>
Date: Sep 24, 2004
All, Anyone care to comment on any required reamer sizes used? I have no intention of reaming regular sheetmetal holes, but I would like to do so in the "bushing-type" applications. I understand that a 1/4" reamer would be beneficial...are any other sizes really required (3/16, 5/16, etc.)? Thanks, Scott 7A Wings www.scottsrv7a.com Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com The most personalized portal on the Web! ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Flap Skin Part Number?
From: "" <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com>
Date: Sep 24, 2004
Stupid question that I can't believe I cannot find in the archives... My plans call for 701 and 702 as the flap skins (it's a 7A). The skins I have are labeled 801 and 802. I assume they are the same? I think it is the same wing, but I thought I would double-check before drilling the skin. Thanks, Scott 7A Wings www.scottsrv7a.com Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com The most personalized portal on the Web! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: Common Reamer Sizes
Date: Sep 23, 2004
I used a 13/64" and 17/64" chucking reamers in a bunch of spots on the baffles to reduce stress around 3/16" and 1/4" fasteners. Other than that I've got 1/4" and 3/16" reamers. I figure a #19 and #10 would also be helpful, will probably snag each of those before starting the HR-II. )_( Dan RV-7 N714D (232 hours) http://www.rvproject.com ----- Original Message ----- From: <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com> Subject: RV-List: Common Reamer Sizes > > > All, > > Anyone care to comment on any required reamer sizes used? I have no intention of reaming regular sheetmetal holes, but I would like to do so in the "bushing-type" applications. I understand that a 1/4" reamer would be beneficial...are any other sizes really required (3/16, 5/16, etc.)? > > Thanks, > Scott > 7A Wings > www.scottsrv7a.com > > > Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com > The most personalized portal on the Web! > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us>
"'owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com '"(at)matronics.com
Subject: engine leaks and wingtips
Date: Sep 23, 2004
Andy, having overhauled a zillion engines of every variety including land, sea and air, I agree with Stein's comments, but I would add one very significant thing. Check all case studs and fastener torques just because its the right thing to do. If your nose garloch seal is more than five years old it is likely weeping some, so that would be my first culprit to rule out, but, the case studs still need to be checked for torque as both problems could be happening and this is the only way to rule that one out. If any are loose the proper fix is to split the case examine for fretting and replace all studs on the cylinder(s) that had loose studs as even the still tight ones on those cylinders have been overloaded. Lycoming has several SBs on this grim subject. RE wintips, I have only one thing to say, anybody who rivets their way out of an easy inspection access has never been inspection authorized. W ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "GMC" <gmcnutt(at)uniserve.com>
Subject: Glide Characteristics
Date: Sep 23, 2004
Hi Kyle See the CAFE report at http://www.cafefoundation.org/aprs/RV-6A%20Final%20APR.pdf it is the best performance test report on the RV6 that I have seen published. If you are showing only a 350 FPM rate of descent in glide I would confirm that the VSI is not under reading. The RV tested in the CAFE report had a minimum sink rate speed of 80 MPH and descent rate was over 700 FPM (I once had a Cessna 182 that had a really impressive climb rate until we repaired the VSI). George in Langley BC 6A flying 7A empennage completed today! -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kyle Boatright Subject: RV-List: Glide Characteristics Has anyone done power off (prop stopped) glide testing on their RV-6 or RV-7? I was doing some airwork today and tried to simulate an engine out no flaps landing, and the airplane simply didn't want to come down. With the engine at idle, the rate of descent was only 350 FPM, which tells me that my high pitched prop was still generating some thrust. Does an engine idling glide with half flaps provide a good representation of the glide with no flaps and the prop stopped? How about full flaps? My goal here is to get a feel for what the airplane's performance would be if I actually suffered an engine out event. By the way, I'm not brave enough these days to do the actual engine out routine... ;-) Thanks in advance, KB ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 24, 2004
From: "Jim.Truitt(at)usdoj.gov" <Jim.Truitt(at)usdoj.gov>
Subject: RV-List Digest: 27 Msgs - 09/23/04 -Reply
(Receipt Notification Requested) I have been temporarily assigned to a new task force in Indianapolis effective September 22, 2004. All of my fugitive cases have been reassigned to other task force members. If you need to contact the officer assigned to a case, contact Jim Enea at (317) 226-7116 (office) or (317) 281-7502 (cell). For contact concerning a new fugitive case, or collateral leads, contact Supervisor Tom Cassels at (317) 226-6059 or Brian Aldridge at (317) 226-0255. I will check my email and voice mail periodically during this period, or I can be contacted at (317) 281-7503. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net>
Subject: 2000 RV-6A For Sale - Long
Date: Sep 24, 2004
2000 RV-6A FOR SALE - $73,000.00 - Lubbock, Texas Pictures available by e-mail dav1111(at)cox.net. The engine is a Lycoming 0-320 D2J, 160hp - TTSN 2410 - SMOH 464 - At overhaul everything was either completely overhauled or replaced. The last conditional inspection was on August 1, 2004 and the compression was 76/80, 78/80, 77/80, and 74/80. The engine was from Civil Air Patrol 172 which was removed for an upgrade. Senenich Fixed Pitch Metal Prop 464 hours since new. Electric Flaps, two piece wheel pants. Instrument wise it has a KT 760 Digital Transponder, with Altitude Encoder, a KLX135A digital GPS/Comm, a Flightcom 403 Intercom. It also has a Navaid Single Axis Autopilot (wing leveler) coupled to theGPS, with both a GPS tracking mode and a separate heading hold. The Navaid autopilot is upgradeable to a two axis autopilot with altitude hold for about $1700.00. It has a panel mounted Skyforce C III moving map GPS display, and a VM 1000 engine monitor. In addition, Terry's panel has an open spot in which a VOR/LOC/ILS head could be installed and the panel upgraded to add true IFR capability. Terry Cole, owner/builder, has asked me to handle the sale of his RV-6A for him since I am a close friend, an attorney, and have bought and sold six different airplanes. In addition Terry and I are both building RV-10's. For comparison, I sold my 150 hp 1996 RV-6A for $70,000.00 (N65RV), which was not as nice as Terry's RV-6A. Terry's RV has a much better engine monitor than I had, and overall is far superior in workmanship and looks to my RV, which I sold. I have talked to the A&P who did the engine overhaul, who is also an RV-6A and RV-7 builder, and Terry's engine overhaul sure appears to have been done right. For additional information or pictures please feel free to contact me either by phone (806) 535-1019 or e-mail. In addition, if you need contact information for other people in the Lubbock area who are familiar with Terry's RV-6A please let me know and I would be happy to forward you a list of contacts. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 24, 2004
From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: Bottom rudder fairing
Hi, Does anyone have any pictures of their bottom rudder fairing that they can point me to? I've trimmed mine, but not sure if there is a better way to do it. Thanks, Mickey -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 24, 2004
From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: Elevator balancing/counterweights
Hi, Probably in the instructions, but I can't seem to locate it. What is the technique for balancing the elevators? Also, there are counterweights on the rudder, but how does one balance it? Thanks, Mickey -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Glide Characteristics
Date: Sep 24, 2004
From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net>
Kyle, Mine is 760fpm, 80mph indicated, through 3'k prop stopped, 1560lbs, c/s Hartzell. A lighter 6will do better. Mines heavy with doo dads. Or in another more exciting test. 3000fpm, rudder to the stops, hard as a rock slip, speed unknown, prop spinning not producing power unknown. This was an unscientific, unplanned test. Details here http://www.vansairforce.net/articles/MyDeadStick.htm Enjoy Mike Stewart 6A -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kyle Boatright Subject: RV-List: Glide Characteristics Has anyone done power off (prop stopped) glide testing on their RV-6 or RV-7? I was doing some airwork today and tried to simulate an engine out no flaps landing, and the airplane simply didn't want to come down. With the engine at idle, the rate of descent was only 350 FPM, which tells me that my high pitched prop was still generating some thrust. Does an engine idling glide with half flaps provide a good representation of the glide with no flaps and the prop stopped? How about full flaps? My goal here is to get a feel for what the airplane's performance would be if I actually suffered an engine out event. By the way, I'm not brave enough these days to do the actual engine out routine... ;-) Thanks in advance, KB = = = = ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 24, 2004
From: Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net>
Subject: Re: Discovery Wings Oshkosh 2004 - Comments
Sims, Doug wrote: > >It takes cash to keep Poberenzy current in warbirds! > >RV8 >Time to spark up the panel-yikes > And motorcycles! -- Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/ RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 24, 2004
From: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Aircraft Wiring
Mike I just searched Blue Mountain's web site. I found neither the original article, nor Greg's rebuttal to Bob's critique. Where can I find the rebuttal? Charlie Kuss > >Bob wrote the critique, Greg wrote the rebuttle. > >Ben Cunningham wrote: > > > > >The wiring booklet critique is at www.bluemountainavionics.com under the > >discussion groups installation tab. Pretty good rebuttal by electric Bob. > > > >Ben Cunningham > >RV7 finish kit > > > >----- Original Message ----- > >From: "Jim & Bev Cone" <jimnbev(at)olypen.com> > >To: > >Subject: Re: RV-List: Aircraft Wiring > > > > > > > > > >> > >>There is also a very interesting rebuttal of the critique on the Blue > >> > >> > >Mountain Discussion Board. > > > > > >>Jim Cone > >>3-Peat Offender > >> > >> > >> > >> > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 24, 2004
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: Glide Characteristics
A guy did this in his 4 a while back, he actually turned off the engine in the pattern. I belive this was with a constant speed prop and he saw 800 FPM decent. He wanted to touch down in the middle of the runway but ended up on the numbers! > >Has anyone done power off (prop stopped) glide testing on their RV-6 or >RV-7? I was doing some airwork today and tried to simulate an engine out >no flaps landing, and the airplane simply didn't want to come down. With >the engine at idle, the rate of descent was only 350 FPM, which tells me >that my high pitched prop was still generating some thrust. > >Does an engine idling glide with half flaps provide a good representation >of the glide with no flaps and the prop stopped? How about full >flaps? My goal here is to get a feel for what the airplane's performance >would be if I actually suffered an engine out event. By the way, I'm not >brave enough these days to do the actual engine out routine... ;-) > >Thanks in advance, > >KB > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 24, 2004
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: Common Reamer Sizes
Before starting the Harmon Rocket II........What? > >I used a 13/64" and 17/64" chucking reamers in a bunch of spots on the >baffles to reduce stress around 3/16" and 1/4" fasteners. > >Other than that I've got 1/4" and 3/16" reamers. I figure a #19 and #10 >would also be helpful, will probably snag each of those before starting the >HR-II. > >)_( Dan >RV-7 N714D (232 hours) >http://www.rvproject.com > >----- Original Message ----- >From: <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com> >To: >Subject: RV-List: Common Reamer Sizes > > > > > > > > All, > > > > Anyone care to comment on any required reamer sizes used? I have no >intention of reaming regular sheetmetal holes, but I would like to do so in >the "bushing-type" applications. I understand that a 1/4" reamer would be >beneficial...are any other sizes really required (3/16, 5/16, etc.)? > > > > Thanks, > > Scott > > 7A Wings > > www.scottsrv7a.com > > > > > > Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com > > The most personalized portal on the Web! > > > > > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 24, 2004
From: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Flap Skin Part Number?
Scott, Since the 7 & 8 use the same wing, all common parts will retain their original part numbers. Heck, I've got seat parts that have RV4 part numbers on them. Don't worry, the FL-801 and FL-802 parts are the correct items. Charlie Kuss > > >Stupid question that I can't believe I cannot find in the archives... > >My plans call for 701 and 702 as the flap skins (it's a 7A). The skins I >have are labeled 801 and 802. I assume they are the same? I think it is >the same wing, but I thought I would double-check before drilling the skin. > >Thanks, >Scott >7A Wings >www.scottsrv7a.com > > >Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com >The most personalized portal on the Web! > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Common Reamer Sizes
Date: Sep 24, 2004
I found a 7/16 reamer indespensable in cleaning up the the wing attach bolt holes. I bought the QB 8A and although the center section holes matched the wing, I had a lot of trouble lining up the landing gear support brackets which bolt onto the forward side of the wing center section. A reamer, inserted from the aft side of the center section and turned by hand, proved essential for cleaning up small mismatches in the gear bracket so the bolts would go through and it doesn't affect the aluminum that lines up. I also had to ream one hole from front to back. It seems one of the F804C parts did not line up perfectly either. Don't know if the 7A bolts things to the center section or not. Dave Reel RV8A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 24, 2004
From: Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Aircraft Wiring
For those that can't find the Blue Mountain Avionics message board thread for the wiring booklet & discussion, it should be here: http://www.bluemountainavionics.com/discus/messages/2/806.html?1095871128 (The link might get split!) _______________________________ Declare Yourself - Register online to vote today! http://vote.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Subject: Re: Glide Characteristics
Date: Sep 24, 2004
Years ago, in ultralights, we used to kill our engines all the time and have power-off spot landing contests. This quickly got boring, so we'd make it harder and harder for ourselves by shutting off our engines at lower altitudes, doing a number of maneuvers before setting up to land, throwing out rolls of toilet paper and clipping it 3-4 times before landing, swooping over the line at low altitude and then swinging around to land the other direction Bob Hoover style. It was great fun and built a lot of confidence for when actual power off landings, as are not so uncommon in ultralights, were for real. Anyway, I've never done it in my -6. For one thing because the maneuverability of the ultralights we used to fly (particularly the Flightstars and Phantoms) is far greater than the RVs. And also frankly, because the idea of it at our 8-9000' mountain strips with our high landing speeds and skinny runways makes me real nervous. I know my piloting ability suffers because of it. It would sure be fun to find some empty 10,000' strip in the middle of Kansas to try. It would be a great way to learn about our planes, and put these questions to rest for real. Anybody for trying to set up such a group event? Andy Builder's Bookstore www.buildersbooks.com 800 780-4115 ----- Original Message ----- From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Glide Characteristics <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com> > > A guy did this in his 4 a while back, he actually turned off the engine in > the pattern. I belive this was with a constant speed prop and he saw 800 > FPM decent. He wanted to touch down in the middle of the runway but ended > up on the numbers! > > > > >Has anyone done power off (prop stopped) glide testing on their RV-6 or > >RV-7? I was doing some airwork today and tried to simulate an engine out > >no flaps landing, and the airplane simply didn't want to come down. With > >the engine at idle, the rate of descent was only 350 FPM, which tells me > >that my high pitched prop was still generating some thrust. > > > >Does an engine idling glide with half flaps provide a good representation > >of the glide with no flaps and the prop stopped? How about full > >flaps? My goal here is to get a feel for what the airplane's performance > >would be if I actually suffered an engine out event. By the way, I'm not > >brave enough these days to do the actual engine out routine... ;-) > > > >Thanks in advance, > > > >KB > > > > > > > Scott Bilinski > Eng dept 305 > Phone (858) 657-2536 > Pager (858) 502-5190 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 24, 2004
From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: Re: Aircraft Wiring
Hi, It's here: http://www.bluemountainavionics.com/discus/messages/2/806.html?1095871128 Mickey > I just searched Blue Mountain's web site. I found neither the original >article, nor Greg's rebuttal to Bob's critique. Where can I find the rebuttal? >Charlie Kuss -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Elevator balancing/counterweights
Date: Sep 24, 2004
Michey, There used to be an AC with all kinds of generic information but that one is long gone. Now almost all info is fond in manufacturer's maintenance manuls (IE, Cessna, Piper). What you need to do is to suspend the control surface from the hinges, then either add or remove weight from the counterweight until the trailing edge and counterweights are on the same horizontal plane. More specifically for the RV's I have found that if the trailing edge is slightly heavy the controls seem to respond better and there is less chance of control flutter at high speeds. By being slightly heavy I mean the trailing edge 1-2 inches below the horizontal plane of the center of the counter weight leading edge. I hope this helps, Mike Robertson >From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Elevator balancing/counterweights >Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2004 12:43:36 +0200 > > >Hi, > >Probably in the instructions, but I can't seem to locate >it. What is the technique for balancing the elevators? >Also, there are counterweights on the rudder, but how >does one balance it? > >Thanks, >Mickey > >-- >Mickey Coggins >http://www.rv8.ch/ >#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage > > Check out Election 2004 for up-to-date election news, plus voter tools and ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: FNG Questions
Date: Sep 24, 2004
From: "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich(at)dcscorp.com>
I'm just getting the shop arranged and about to order an RV-8A kit. The workshop was part of the house I bought last spring and has the plumbing for an airtool system - =BD inch PVC from the compressor connection to 3 outlets at varying distances (up to 50 feet). Bit on the Husky 32 gallon $299 compressor deal; just received the Avery RV Builders Kit, upgraded with a Sioux 3X rivet gun. Recommended pressure for both the gun and Sioux drill is 90 psi. How much "line loss" does one usually get from the compressor outlet to a connector - say 50 feet away? What is a reasonable compressor outlet setting? Will 90+ psi be a problem with the PVC? Thanks, Paul Valovich Booger ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 24, 2004
From: "Rob Prior" <rv7(at)b4.ca>
Subject: Re: Glide Characteristics
On 19:54 23/09/2004 "Kyle Boatright" wrote: > et> > Has anyone done power off (prop stopped) glide testing on their RV-6 > or RV-7? I was doing some airwork today and tried to simulate an > engine out no flaps landing, and the airplane simply didn't want to > come down. With the engine at idle, the rate of descent was only 350 > FPM, which tells me that my high pitched prop was still generating some > thrust. You'll have to be careful assuming what simulated configuration will equal an actual configuration in the event of an emergency. An idling engine can provide thrust or drag, depending on whether you're hanging off the prop trying to maintain altitude (some thrust), or diving onto it trying to lose altitude (some drag). A stopped prop will provide neither thrust nor drag (well, a tiny bit of drag, but not much). And a windmilling prop will provide a *lot* of drag. > My goal here is to get a feel for what the > airplane's performance would be if I actually suffered an engine out > event. Take your plane up to 10000' sometime, and do an engine idling glide, an engine out (but prop windmilling) glide, and an engine out and prop stopped glide, all at the same indicated airspeed. All other things being equal, you should find the lowest descent rate with the engine idling (because it's still contributing energy to your flight), and the highest with the prop windmilling (because it's doing nothing but remove energy from your flight). With the prop stopped you'll be somewhere in between. -Rob ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: Elevator balancing/counterweights
Date: Sep 24, 2004
I always thought that the consensus was to "over balance" and have the nose heavier than the trailing edge. Might take a look at CAM 18 for this kind of information ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> Subject: RE: RV-List: Elevator balancing/counterweights > > Michey, > > There used to be an AC with all kinds of generic information but that one is > long gone. Now almost all info is fond in manufacturer's maintenance manuls > (IE, Cessna, Piper). What you need to do is to suspend the control surface > from the hinges, then either add or remove weight from the counterweight > until the trailing edge and counterweights are on the same horizontal plane. > More specifically for the RV's I have found that if the trailing edge is > slightly heavy the controls seem to respond better and there is less chance > of control flutter at high speeds. By being slightly heavy I mean the > trailing edge 1-2 inches below the horizontal plane of the center of the > counter weight leading edge. > > I hope this helps, > Mike Robertson > > > >From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > >Subject: RV-List: Elevator balancing/counterweights > >Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2004 12:43:36 +0200 > > > > > >Hi, > > > >Probably in the instructions, but I can't seem to locate > >it. What is the technique for balancing the elevators? > >Also, there are counterweights on the rudder, but how > >does one balance it? > > > >Thanks, > >Mickey > > > >-- > >Mickey Coggins > >http://www.rv8.ch/ > >#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage > > > > > > Check out Election 2004 for up-to-date election news, plus voter tools and > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: Elevator balancing/counterweights
Date: Sep 24, 2004
From CAM 18 CONTROL SURFACE CHANGES. Any change in the size of control surfaces affects the loading conditions for the airplane structure and therefore requires additional strength analyses, static tests, or both. Flight tests are usually required also. The owner is particularly warned against making minor changes on control surfaces, since the original design often just meets certain requirements for flutter prevention. No balancing weights should be removed or added without consulting the manufacturer and finally obtaining the inspector's approval. In particular, it is essential that nothing be done to alter the contour of the nose section ahead of the hinge line or to increase the weight of movable surfaces to the rear of the hinge line. Balancing and trimming tabs have very powerful effects and should not be altered or allowed to become loose. All these precautions against flutter become increasingly important as the speed of the airplane is increased. On high speed airplanes any change of the control surfaces or system may result in flutter or dangerous vibration. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> Subject: RE: RV-List: Elevator balancing/counterweights > > Michey, > > There used to be an AC with all kinds of generic information but that one is > long gone. Now almost all info is fond in manufacturer's maintenance manuls > (IE, Cessna, Piper). What you need to do is to suspend the control surface > from the hinges, then either add or remove weight from the counterweight > until the trailing edge and counterweights are on the same horizontal plane. > More specifically for the RV's I have found that if the trailing edge is > slightly heavy the controls seem to respond better and there is less chance > of control flutter at high speeds. By being slightly heavy I mean the > trailing edge 1-2 inches below the horizontal plane of the center of the > counter weight leading edge. > > I hope this helps, > Mike Robertson > > > >From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > >Subject: RV-List: Elevator balancing/counterweights > >Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2004 12:43:36 +0200 > > > > > >Hi, > > > >Probably in the instructions, but I can't seem to locate > >it. What is the technique for balancing the elevators? > >Also, there are counterweights on the rudder, but how > >does one balance it? > > > >Thanks, > >Mickey > > > >-- > >Mickey Coggins > >http://www.rv8.ch/ > >#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage > > > > > > Check out Election 2004 for up-to-date election news, plus voter tools and > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 24, 2004
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Medical Question...
Hello Listers, Okay, while this isn't exactly an RV related question, I couldn't think of a nicer bunch of guys to ask... :-) So the doctor says I've got "high blood pressure" and wants to put me on blood pressure medicine. In the office, I'm about 145/94 which I guess is on the high side for a 40-year old guy. Anyway, the doctor wrote me a prescription for "Atenolol", 25mg, once a day. My question is, will this particular blood pressure medicine be acceptable with regard to my flight physical (standard 3rd class for Private Pilot)? If not, what type would be acceptable? Thanks for the input. Matt Dralle Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Figgins" <2004nospam(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Sep 24, 2004
Subject: FNG Questions
I have pvc coiled pipe air hose and it seems fine at the pressures recommended, I did however just read an article from another builders web site that talked about running the rivet gun at lower pressures (25 psi) particularly for 3/32 rivets to give better control. Having just finished the HS and VS I can attest that trying to control the 3X gun at the higher pressures is not easy and it can be very easy to flatten the formed head and worse mar the shop side skin finish. I would also be interested in opinions on the appropriate psi setting for the 3X gun before I start the rudder. Dave Figgins -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Valovich, Paul Subject: RV-List: FNG Questions I'm just getting the shop arranged and about to order an RV-8A kit. The workshop was part of the house I bought last spring and has the plumbing for an airtool system - =BD inch PVC from the compressor connection to 3 outlets at varying distances (up to 50 feet). Bit on the Husky 32 gallon $299 compressor deal; just received the Avery RV Builders Kit, upgraded with a Sioux 3X rivet gun. Recommended pressure for both the gun and Sioux drill is 90 psi. How much "line loss" does one usually get from the compressor outlet to a connector - say 50 feet away? What is a reasonable compressor outlet setting? Will 90+ psi be a problem with the PVC? Thanks, Paul Valovich Booger advertising on the Matronics Forums. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Trainnut01(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 24, 2004
Subject: Re: Medical Question...
Matt My doctor has me on a blood pressure medication called "Benicar". Medical examiner didn't have any problem with it. Carroll Jernigan RV7A Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 24, 2004
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: Medical Question...
Matt Dralle wrote: > > > Hello Listers, > > Okay, while this isn't exactly an RV related question, I couldn't think of > a nicer bunch of guys to ask... :-) > > So the doctor says I've got "high blood pressure" and wants to put me on > blood pressure medicine. In the office, I'm about 145/94 which I guess is > on the high side for a 40-year old guy. Anyway, the doctor wrote me a > prescription for "Atenolol", 25mg, once a day. > > My question is, will this particular blood pressure medicine be acceptable > with regard to my flight physical (standard 3rd class for Private Pilot)? > > If not, what type would be acceptable? > > Thanks for the input. > > Matt Dralle > Matt, I am assuming you are a member of AOPA, so I suggest you contact their medical experts. They can guide you through the process of interfacing with the FAA in Oklahoma. *Another* great reason to be a member of AOPA! I also highly recommend their inexpensive legal services option in this day and age of pop-up TFRs. Sam Buchanan ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org>
Subject: Medical Question...
Date: Sep 24, 2004
Check with the AOPA medical department. The FAA maintains an approved list of medications. You want to make sure that your BP med is on that list. Bruce www.glasair.org -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle Subject: RV-List: Medical Question... Hello Listers, Okay, while this isn't exactly an RV related question, I couldn't think of a nicer bunch of guys to ask... :-) So the doctor says I've got "high blood pressure" and wants to put me on blood pressure medicine. In the office, I'm about 145/94 which I guess is on the high side for a 40-year old guy. Anyway, the doctor wrote me a prescription for "Atenolol", 25mg, once a day. My question is, will this particular blood pressure medicine be acceptable with regard to my flight physical (standard 3rd class for Private Pilot)? If not, what type would be acceptable? Thanks for the input. Matt Dralle ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 24, 2004
From: richard dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net>
Subject: Re: Medical Question...
Hi Matt, I don't know about Atenolol. But, HCTZ (hydrocholro thyazide) is acceptable. However, be prepared to get a letter from your physician for your next flight physical that explains that your BP is under control by the medication and that the other measures from your blood tests and electrocardiogram indicate no problems. Good luck and best wishes, Richard Dudley Matt Dralle wrote: > > >Hello Listers, > >Okay, while this isn't exactly an RV related question, I couldn't think of >a nicer bunch of guys to ask... :-) > >So the doctor says I've got "high blood pressure" and wants to put me on >blood pressure medicine. In the office, I'm about 145/94 which I guess is >on the high side for a 40-year old guy. Anyway, the doctor wrote me a >prescription for "Atenolol", 25mg, once a day. > >My question is, will this particular blood pressure medicine be acceptable >with regard to my flight physical (standard 3rd class for Private Pilot)? > >If not, what type would be acceptable? > >Thanks for the input. > >Matt Dralle > > >Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 >925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email >http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 24, 2004
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: Medical Question...
I saw a approved list of medications on either AOPA, EAA, or FAA web site, cant remember which. In this case I would guess a call into AOPA might get you the answers the fastest. > > >Hello Listers, > >Okay, while this isn't exactly an RV related question, I couldn't think of >a nicer bunch of guys to ask... :-) > >So the doctor says I've got "high blood pressure" and wants to put me on >blood pressure medicine. In the office, I'm about 145/94 which I guess is >on the high side for a 40-year old guy. Anyway, the doctor wrote me a >prescription for "Atenolol", 25mg, once a day. > >My question is, will this particular blood pressure medicine be acceptable >with regard to my flight physical (standard 3rd class for Private Pilot)? > >If not, what type would be acceptable? > >Thanks for the input. > >Matt Dralle > > >Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 >925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email >http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cory Emberson" <bootless(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Medical Question...
Date: Sep 24, 2004
Hi Matt, Here's the email for one of the finest people I know: Dr. Brent Blue, Senior AME. I've known him for about 16 years or so through Avsig, and he runs Aeromedix.com (which has a bunch of neat stuff, including ReliefBands, Pulse Oximeters and smoke hoods). He is especially good at addressing these issues regarding flight physicals, and will often give presentations at SMXgig on that subject. I will send his email to you off-list. best, Cory -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Matt Dralle Subject: RV-List: Medical Question... Hello Listers, Okay, while this isn't exactly an RV related question, I couldn't think of a nicer bunch of guys to ask... :-) So the doctor says I've got "high blood pressure" and wants to put me on blood pressure medicine. In the office, I'm about 145/94 which I guess is on the high side for a 40-year old guy. Anyway, the doctor wrote me a prescription for "Atenolol", 25mg, once a day. My question is, will this particular blood pressure medicine be acceptable with regard to my flight physical (standard 3rd class for Private Pilot)? If not, what type would be acceptable? Thanks for the input. Matt Dralle Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 24, 2004
From: Mike Nellis <mike(at)bmnellis.com>
Subject: Re: FNG Questions
You'll probably get all sorts of reply about how you shouldn't use PVC for an air line but there is no pressure loss in an air line from the supply tank to the end of the fitting unless there is a regulator. The line just acts as additional storage. Now, the size of the smallest fitting in the line will limit how much VOLUME of air you can put through the line if you're running a velocity tool such as an air grinder or something. Valovich, Paul wrote: > >I'm just getting the shop arranged and about to order an RV-8A kit. The workshop was part of the house I bought last spring and has the plumbing for an airtool system - =BD inch PVC from the compressor connection to 3 outlets at varying distances (up to 50 feet). Bit on the Husky 32 gallon $299 compressor deal; just received the Avery RV Builders Kit, upgraded with a Sioux 3X rivet gun. > > >Recommended pressure for both the gun and Sioux drill is 90 psi. How much "line loss" does one usually get from the compressor outlet to a connector - say 50 feet away? What is a reasonable compressor outlet setting? Will 90+ psi be a problem with the PVC? > >Thanks, > >Paul Valovich > >Booger > > > > -- Mike Nellis Austin, TX CMRA #32 Honda RC51 '97 YZF1000 '47 Stinson 108-2; RV6 (Fuselage) http://bmnellis.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com>
Subject: Aircraft Wiring
Date: Sep 24, 2004
Charlie, The critique (peer review?) by Bob Nuckolls of Greg Richter's "Aircraft Wiring for Smart People" was on the Aeroelectric list and should be in the aeroelectric archives, and possibly on Bob's website. It is embedded in a copy of the original booklet. The original booklet can be downloaded from Blue Mountain's website (bluemountainavionics.com). On the main menu, look for the downloads tab. Bob's review was quite critical in several areas. Greg's response on Blue Mountain's discussion board could degenerated into something pretty unprofessional, in my opinion. Terry -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Charlie Kuss Subject: Re: RV-List: Aircraft Wiring Mike I just searched Blue Mountain's web site. I found neither the original article, nor Greg's rebuttal to Bob's critique. Where can I find the rebuttal? Charlie Kuss ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott VanArtsdalen" <svanarts(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Medical Question...
Date: Sep 24, 2004
Unsubscribing from the RV-List for a while lowered my blood pressure. I'm sorry. I know that wasn't helpful. This is probably more helpful: Pilot Medical Solutions, Inc.R http://www.leftseat.com/hypertension.htm -- Scott VanArtsdalen RV-4 N311SV 4-ever! -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle Subject: RV-List: Medical Question... Hello Listers, Okay, while this isn't exactly an RV related question, I couldn't think of a nicer bunch of guys to ask... :-) So the doctor says I've got "high blood pressure" and wants to put me on blood pressure medicine. In the office, I'm about 145/94 which I guess is on the high side for a 40-year old guy. Anyway, the doctor wrote me a prescription for "Atenolol", 25mg, once a day. My question is, will this particular blood pressure medicine be acceptable with regard to my flight physical (standard 3rd class for Private Pilot)? If not, what type would be acceptable? Thanks for the input. Matt Dralle Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft = = = = ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott VanArtsdalen" <svanarts(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Glide Characteristics
Date: Sep 24, 2004
Are we talking minimum sink or best glide here? They came out as two dramatically different numbers on my -4. Best glide was around 95mph, IIRC and somewhere in the 80's (probably around 85 given the other responses) for minimum sink. -- Scott VanArtsdalen RV-4 N311SV 4-ever! -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kyle Boatright Subject: RV-List: Glide Characteristics Has anyone done power off (prop stopped) glide testing on their RV-6 or RV-7? I was doing some airwork today and tried to simulate an engine out no flaps landing, and the airplane simply didn't want to come down. With the engine at idle, the rate of descent was only 350 FPM, which tells me that my high pitched prop was still generating some thrust. Does an engine idling glide with half flaps provide a good representation of the glide with no flaps and the prop stopped? How about full flaps? My goal here is to get a feel for what the airplane's performance would be if I actually suffered an engine out event. By the way, I'm not brave enough these days to do the actual engine out routine... ;-) Thanks in advance, KB = = = = ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com>
Subject: Re: Glide Characteristics
Date: Sep 24, 2004
To add to Rob's comments, you'll find that the fine pitch stop setting on a c/s prop can make a LARGE difference in sink rate also. While doing my prop testing a while back I had occasion to change the fine pitch stop a bit and wow, it provided an additional 300 fpm descent. Adjusting the fine pitch stop can be used to accomodate the owner's preferences: set it a bit courser and get a better glide, set it a bit finer and you will need to carry more power on approach, but you can really drop it in when you want to such as when coming in to a short field over an obstacle. Randy Lervold ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rob Prior" <rv7(at)b4.ca> Subject: Re: RV-List: Glide Characteristics > > On 19:54 23/09/2004 "Kyle Boatright" wrote: > > et> > > Has anyone done power off (prop stopped) glide testing on their RV-6 > > or RV-7? I was doing some airwork today and tried to simulate an > > engine out no flaps landing, and the airplane simply didn't want to > > come down. With the engine at idle, the rate of descent was only 350 > > FPM, which tells me that my high pitched prop was still generating some > > thrust. > > You'll have to be careful assuming what simulated configuration will equal > an actual configuration in the event of an emergency. An idling engine can > provide thrust or drag, depending on whether you're hanging off the prop > trying to maintain altitude (some thrust), or diving onto it trying to lose > altitude (some drag). A stopped prop will provide neither thrust nor drag > (well, a tiny bit of drag, but not much). And a windmilling prop will > provide a *lot* of drag. > > > My goal here is to get a feel for what the > > airplane's performance would be if I actually suffered an engine out > > event. > > Take your plane up to 10000' sometime, and do an engine idling glide, an > engine out (but prop windmilling) glide, and an engine out and prop stopped > glide, all at the same indicated airspeed. All other things being equal, > you should find the lowest descent rate with the engine idling (because > it's still contributing energy to your flight), and the highest with the > prop windmilling (because it's doing nothing but remove energy from your > flight). With the prop stopped you'll be somewhere in between. > > -Rob > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 24, 2004
From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: Re: Medical Question...
Hi, I'd get the cardiogrip to get your blood pressure down without drugs, then you won't have to worry. I don't have high blood pressure, but I checked out the unit and spoke to the company principals at SNF. Looks good, and the science behind it is sound. http://www.mdsystems.com/ Also, you probably want to check your own blood pressure at home, just in case you have "white coat syndrome". Mickey >So the doctor says I've got "high blood pressure" and wants to put me on >blood pressure medicine. In the office, I'm about 145/94 which I guess is >on the high side for a 40-year old guy. Anyway, the doctor wrote me a >prescription for "Atenolol", 25mg, once a day. > >My question is, will this particular blood pressure medicine be acceptable >with regard to my flight physical (standard 3rd class for Private Pilot)? > >If not, what type would be acceptable? > >Thanks for the input. -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris Good" <chrisjgood(at)lycos.com>
Date: Sep 24, 2004
Subject: FNG Questions
David, You don't want to run your rivet gun at 90 psi, but you don't want your air system running at 25 psi either. Ideally you want high (90 psi) pressure in your system up to the gun, then a needle valve regulator on the gun cuts the pressure to whatever you need. Test on some scrap. You'll obviously need more pressure for the 1/8" rivets than for 3/32". I think both Avery & Cleveland sell these valves. Before someone told me about this, I was regulating the pressure down at the compressor. As soon as the gun fires, the pressure in the line drops, so you don't get consistent hits. Regards, Chris Good, West Bend, WI RV-6A ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Figgins" <2004nospam(at)earthlink.net> Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2004 10:19:49 -0600 Subject: RE: RV-List: FNG Questions I have pvc coiled pipe air hose and it seems fine at the pressures recommended, I did however just read an article from another builders web site that talked about running the rivet gun at lower pressures (25 psi) particularly for 3/32 rivets to give better control. Having just finished the HS and VS I can attest that trying to control the 3X gun at the higher pressures is not easy and it can be very easy to flatten the formed head and worse mar the shop side skin finish. I would also be interested in opinions on the appropriate psi setting for the 3X gun before I start the rudder. Dave Figgins -- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris Good" <chrisjgood(at)lycos.com>
Date: Sep 24, 2004
Subject: Medical Question...
Matt, I just checked the AOPA on-line medication database. It says Atenolol is "FAA allowed". But it wouldn't hurt to get some other opinions. Of course AOPA has to have a disclaimer, reproduced below. Regards, Chris Good. West Bend, WI RV-6A Disclaimer This database is compiled by the AOPA Medical Certification Department and is based upon confirmation with the FAA Aerospace Medical Certification Division in Oklahoma City. Although these medications are generally allowed by the FAA for flight duties, there are variables with each individual's situation that could render a particular medication inappropriate for flying because of case history or adverse side effects. Some medications are being used "off label". This means that a drug is prescribed for symptoms that do not fall within the FDA's approval guidelines for that drug. This is just one example of why the FAA might not approve a drug that is on the list. FAR 61.53 prohibits a person from acting as pilot in command or as a required pilot flight crew member while that person (1) "knows or has reason to know of any medical condition that would make the person unable to meet the requirements for the medical certificate necessary for the pilot operation"; or, (2) "Is taking medication or receiving other treatment for a medical condition that results in the person being unable to meet the requirements for the medical certificate necessary for the pilot operation." FAR 91.17 states (a) No person may act or attempt to act as a pilot crewmember of a civil aircraft (3) While using any drug that affects the person's faculties in any way contrary to safety Although we maintain the medications list as accurately as possible, there may be drugs that do not appear in the database. If you have any questions about a particular medication that does not appear, contact the Medical Certification specialists on the AOPA Pilot Information Center, 800/872-2672. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle Subject: RV-List: Medical Question... Hello Listers, Okay, while this isn't exactly an RV related question, I couldn't think of a nicer bunch of guys to ask... :-) So the doctor says I've got "high blood pressure" and wants to put me on blood pressure medicine. In the office, I'm about 145/94 which I guess is on the high side for a 40-year old guy. Anyway, the doctor wrote me a prescription for "Atenolol", 25mg, once a day. My question is, will this particular blood pressure medicine be acceptable with regard to my flight physical (standard 3rd class for Private Pilot)? If not, what type would be acceptable? Thanks for the input. Matt Dralle -- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 24, 2004
From: jim & terri truitt <jimteri1(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Apology
I apologize to the lists for my work message pinging back to the lists. I activated an automatic return message for all incoming emails but I didn't think the matronics lists would accept it. I have done this before and did not have this happen. I've been off work for 3 days doing my annual inspection so I haven't seen the lists. Thanks to Karl Schilling and another list reader for giving me a call this AM. The message should not appear again after today Fri. 9/24. Yeah, I'm computer savvy. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "steve zicree" <szicree(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: FNG Questions
Date: Sep 24, 2004
Paul, I don't know much about the strength of the pvc (though I have a similar setup) but I can tell you that 90 psi to the rivet gun will smash the bejeezus out of airplane skins. I have a little pressure regulator attached to the inlet of my gun that allows pretty good control of the pressure. It's not a true pressure regulator so it isn't worth a darn for paint guns, but controls the air flow and does a fine job for my rivet gun. It even has a nice swivel built into it, which I highly recommend. I've always set my compressor at about 90 and just regulated pressure at the tool end if required. One more thing that you may already have heard is that the big fat swivel rivet set that Avery sells is FAR better that the old-school solid type. Some guys swear by the solid one, but I guess I just don't have their level of skill. I really wish I would've had it for my tail. As for line loss of pressure, I don't have specifics but it's never been a problem at all. Steve Zicree ----- Original Message ----- From: "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich(at)dcscorp.com> Subject: RV-List: FNG Questions > > I'm just getting the shop arranged and about to order an RV-8A kit. The workshop was part of the house I bought last spring and has the plumbing for an airtool system - =BD inch PVC from the compressor connection to 3 outlets at varying distances (up to 50 feet). Bit on the Husky 32 gallon $299 compressor deal; just received the Avery RV Builders Kit, upgraded with a Sioux 3X rivet gun. > > > Recommended pressure for both the gun and Sioux drill is 90 psi. How much "line loss" does one usually get from the compressor outlet to a connector - say 50 feet away? What is a reasonable compressor outlet setting? Will 90+ psi be a problem with the PVC? > > Thanks, > > Paul Valovich > > Booger > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Medical Question...
Date: Sep 24, 2004
Matt, Call AOPA - they have an excellent Medical staff who can (1) answer your questions and give you advice. Best wishes, Chuck >From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Medical Question... >Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2004 09:17:42 -0700 > > >Hello Listers, > >Okay, while this isn't exactly an RV related question, I couldn't think of >a nicer bunch of guys to ask... :-) > >So the doctor says I've got "high blood pressure" and wants to put me on >blood pressure medicine. In the office, I'm about 145/94 which I guess is >on the high side for a 40-year old guy. Anyway, the doctor wrote me a >prescription for "Atenolol", 25mg, once a day. > >My question is, will this particular blood pressure medicine be acceptable >with regard to my flight physical (standard 3rd class for Private Pilot)? > >If not, what type would be acceptable? > >Thanks for the input. > >Matt Dralle > > >Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 >925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email >http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "steve zicree" <szicree(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: FNG Questions
Date: Sep 24, 2004
To say that constrictions don't cause a pressure drop in MOVING air is saying that there's no decrease in pressure in a venturi. How then does my carb work? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: FNG Questions > > You'll probably get all sorts of reply about how you shouldn't use PVC > for an air line but there is no pressure loss in an air line from the > supply tank to the end of the fitting unless there is a regulator. The > line just acts as additional storage. Now, the size of the smallest > fitting in the line will limit how much VOLUME of air you can put > through the line if you're running a velocity tool such as an air > grinder or something. > > Valovich, Paul wrote: > > > > >I'm just getting the shop arranged and about to order an RV-8A kit. The workshop was part of the house I bought last spring and has the plumbing for an airtool system - =BD inch PVC from the compressor connection to 3 outlets at varying distances (up to 50 feet). Bit on the Husky 32 gallon $299 compressor deal; just received the Avery RV Builders Kit, upgraded with a Sioux 3X rivet gun. > > > > > >Recommended pressure for both the gun and Sioux drill is 90 psi. How much "line loss" does one usually get from the compressor outlet to a connector - say 50 feet away? What is a reasonable compressor outlet setting? Will 90+ psi be a problem with the PVC? > > > >Thanks, > > > >Paul Valovich > > > >Booger > > > > > > > > > > -- > Mike Nellis > Austin, TX > CMRA #32 Honda RC51 > '97 YZF1000 > '47 Stinson 108-2; RV6 (Fuselage) > http://bmnellis.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: Medical Question...
Date: Sep 24, 2004
Did you try plain aspirin first? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com> Subject: RV-List: Medical Question... > > > Hello Listers, > > Okay, while this isn't exactly an RV related question, I couldn't think of > a nicer bunch of guys to ask... :-) > > So the doctor says I've got "high blood pressure" and wants to put me on > blood pressure medicine. In the office, I'm about 145/94 which I guess is > on the high side for a 40-year old guy. Anyway, the doctor wrote me a > prescription for "Atenolol", 25mg, once a day. > > My question is, will this particular blood pressure medicine be acceptable > with regard to my flight physical (standard 3rd class for Private Pilot)? > > If not, what type would be acceptable? > > Thanks for the input. > > Matt Dralle > > > Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 > 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email > http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: Medical Question...
Date: Sep 24, 2004
Atenolol is one the approved list! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott VanArtsdalen" <svanarts(at)yahoo.com> Subject: RE: RV-List: Medical Question... > > Unsubscribing from the RV-List for a while lowered my blood pressure. > > I'm sorry. I know that wasn't helpful. > > This is probably more helpful: > > Pilot Medical Solutions, Inc.R > http://www.leftseat.com/hypertension.htm > > > -- > Scott VanArtsdalen > RV-4 N311SV > 4-ever! > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Medical Question... > > > Hello Listers, > > Okay, while this isn't exactly an RV related question, I couldn't think > of > a nicer bunch of guys to ask... :-) > > So the doctor says I've got "high blood pressure" and wants to put me on > > blood pressure medicine. In the office, I'm about 145/94 which I guess > is > on the high side for a 40-year old guy. Anyway, the doctor wrote me a > prescription for "Atenolol", 25mg, once a day. > > My question is, will this particular blood pressure medicine be > acceptable > with regard to my flight physical (standard 3rd class for Private > Pilot)? > > If not, what type would be acceptable? > > Thanks for the input. > > Matt Dralle > > > Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 > 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email > http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft > > > = > = > = > = > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Medical Question...
Date: Sep 24, 2004
Matt: I have been taking 50 mg of Tenoric for the most of the past 20 years with FAA approval. Tenoric is Atenolol combined with Chlorthalidone. Atenolol is generic beta-blocker (slows down your heart) and Chlorthalidone is a diuretic (eliminates water from the body). At one time I was taking 50 mg Tenormin and at another time taking 25 mg which is generic Atenolol with FAA approval. I am no doctor but always look up information that a doctor prescribes for me. You may end up with problems when it comes time for your medical. I am required to have blood work including K, Na, and Cl with my physical. The FAA also requires that I get an EKG at each physical. The FAA also want a report from your treating physician to include periodic blood pressure readings. (I go in for the BP reading every 3 or 4 months.) They may also wish to see other test and items that the FAA feels is necessary. My primary care physician is a pilot, airplane owner, and a FAA Medical Examiner. The first time you are due to get your physical, go see your Medical Examiner and find out everything he wants or needs to issue you your medical certificate. I also recommend calling AOPA or EAA to get info on what the FAA requires. Make sure that all the information is sent to the FAA with your paperwork. If they do not get ONE neat package, it could take MONTHS to get notified that you are eligible for the certificate requested. The FAA required that I get a stress test for my student pilot license because I have high BP. I was 24 years old. My first 4 or 5 medical certificates were only good for one year and had to be issued by OK City. Things have come a long way since then. Again, be proactive on your end and follow AOPA or EAA recommendations to make sure that ONE package goes in with EVERYTHING that the FAA could want or require. And at one time I had a 2nd class physical taking this medication. Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, 1,588 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com ----Original Message Follows---- From: "Chris Good" <chrisjgood(at)lycos.com> Subject: RE: RV-List: Medical Question... Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2004 12:44:50 -0500 Matt, I just checked the AOPA on-line medication database. It says Atenolol is "FAA allowed". But it wouldn't hurt to get some other opinions. Of course AOPA has to have a disclaimer, reproduced below. Regards, Chris Good. West Bend, WI RV-6A Disclaimer This database is compiled by the AOPA Medical Certification Department and is based upon confirmation with the FAA Aerospace Medical Certification Division in Oklahoma City. Although these medications are generally allowed by the FAA for flight duties, there are variables with each individual's situation that could render a particular medication inappropriate for flying because of case history or adverse side effects. Some medications are being used "off label". This means that a drug is prescribed for symptoms that do not fall within the FDA's approval guidelines for that drug. This is just one example of why the FAA might not approve a drug that is on the list. FAR 61.53 prohibits a person from acting as pilot in command or as a required pilot flight crew member while that person (1) "knows or has reason to know of any medical condition that would make the person unable to meet the requirements for the medical certificate necessary for the pilot operation"; or, (2) "Is taking medication or receiving other treatment for a medical condition that results in the person being unable to meet the requirements for the medical certificate necessary for the pilot operation." FAR 91.17 states (a) No person may act or attempt to act as a pilot crewmember of a civil aircraft (3) While using any drug that affects the person's faculties in any way contrary to safety Although we maintain the medications list as accurately as possible, there may be drugs that do not appear in the database. If you have any questions about a particular medication that does not appear, contact the Medical Certification specialists on the AOPA Pilot Information Center, 800/872-2672. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle Subject: RV-List: Medical Question... Hello Listers, Okay, while this isn't exactly an RV related question, I couldn't think of a nicer bunch of guys to ask... :-) So the doctor says I've got "high blood pressure" and wants to put me on blood pressure medicine. In the office, I'm about 145/94 which I guess is on the high side for a 40-year old guy. Anyway, the doctor wrote me a prescription for "Atenolol", 25mg, once a day. My question is, will this particular blood pressure medicine be acceptable with regard to my flight physical (standard 3rd class for Private Pilot)? If not, what type would be acceptable? Thanks for the input. Matt Dralle ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Medical Question...
Date: Sep 24, 2004
I'm not sure about the Atenolol. You should really ask your flight surgeon. I'm using Hydro-Cloro-Thiazid (HCZ) which is supposed to be the weakest blood pressure meds you can find. I was told that I should not fly for three months have no side effects and blood prressure was stabilized, after I started taking the meds. Again, I would highly suggest consulting your flight surgeon for final opinion. Mike Robertson >From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Medical Question... >Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2004 09:17:42 -0700 > > >Hello Listers, > >Okay, while this isn't exactly an RV related question, I couldn't think of >a nicer bunch of guys to ask... :-) > >So the doctor says I've got "high blood pressure" and wants to put me on >blood pressure medicine. In the office, I'm about 145/94 which I guess is >on the high side for a 40-year old guy. Anyway, the doctor wrote me a >prescription for "Atenolol", 25mg, once a day. > >My question is, will this particular blood pressure medicine be acceptable >with regard to my flight physical (standard 3rd class for Private Pilot)? > >If not, what type would be acceptable? > >Thanks for the input. > >Matt Dralle > > >Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 >925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email >http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft > > Check out Election 2004 for up-to-date election news, plus voter tools and ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 24, 2004
From: Chris W <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: FNG Questions
Mike Nellis wrote: >. . .there is no pressure loss in an air line from the >supply tank to the end of the fitting unless there is a regulator. > While it is true that the "static" pressure will be the same at both ends of the line. If there is flow in the line there will be a pressure drop. That drop depends on hose length, diameter and how fast the air is moving through the line. The diameter of the line is about the biggest factor in pressure loss. if you cut the ID in half you get about 10 times more pressure drop. The flow rate is the next biggest, double the flow and you get about 4 time more pressure drop. Line length is a linear relation ship, double the line length and you double the pressure drop. Bottom line if pressure drop is a problem the easiest and best thing to do is get a little larger (25 or 50%) line and that should help a lot. >Now, the size of the smallest >fitting in the line will limit how much VOLUME of air you can put >through the line if you're running a velocity tool such as an air >grinder or something. > Volume, or flow, is directly related to pressure drop. If the max volume you can get through a fitting or line, at whatever pressure, is say 10 CFM, and your tool consumes 10 CFM then almost all the pressure you have is going to be droped. -- Chris W Bring Back the HP 15C http://hp15c.org Not getting the gifts you want? The Wish Zone can help. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Glide Characteristics
Date: Sep 24, 2004
My question concerns best glide. E.G: If I ever have an engine out situation, I'd like to be somewhat prepared for it. So, is there a configuration that allows you to keep the engine idling, yet gives a reasonable approximation of the prop stopped glide. Does 1/2 flaps do it?, Does it take full flaps? etc. KB ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott VanArtsdalen" <svanarts(at)yahoo.com> Subject: RE: RV-List: Glide Characteristics > > Are we talking minimum sink or best glide here? They came out as two > dramatically different numbers on my -4. Best glide was around 95mph, > IIRC and somewhere in the 80's (probably around 85 given the other > responses) for minimum sink. > > -- > Scott VanArtsdalen > RV-4 N311SV > 4-ever! > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kyle Boatright > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Glide Characteristics > > > > Has anyone done power off (prop stopped) glide testing on their RV-6 or > RV-7? I was doing some airwork today and tried to simulate an engine > out no flaps landing, and the airplane simply didn't want to come down. > With the engine at idle, the rate of descent was only 350 FPM, which > tells me that my high pitched prop was still generating some thrust. > > Does an engine idling glide with half flaps provide a good > representation of the glide with no flaps and the prop stopped? How > about full flaps? My goal here is to get a feel for what the airplane's > performance would be if I actually suffered an engine out event. By the > way, I'm not brave enough these days to do the actual engine out > routine... ;-) > > Thanks in advance, > > KB > > > = > = > = > = > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott VanArtsdalen" <svanarts(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Glide Characteristics
Date: Sep 24, 2004
Here are the values that I came up with for my RV-4. I used the bootstrap methodology discussed on AvWeb. I don't know how good or reliable it was but it seemed to be a good starting point. Real world trials seemed to confirm the results I obtained from the spreadsheet I downloaded from AvWeb. I'm not a flight test engineer by any stretch of the imagination. Here's what I came up with: Best Glide Speed Detail Vbg (1500 lbs) ....83 KIAS (96 MPH) Vbg (1300 lbs) ....78 KIAS (90 MPH) Vbg (1100 lbs) ....72 KIAS (83 MPH) Minimum Descent Speeds Vmd (1500 lbs) ....63 KIAS (74 MPH) Vmd (1300 lbs) ....59 KIAS (68 MPH) Vmd (1100 lbs) ....54 KIAS (63 MPH) -- Scott VanArtsdalen RV-4 N311SV 4-ever! -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kyle Boatright Subject: Re: RV-List: Glide Characteristics My question concerns best glide. E.G: If I ever have an engine out situation, I'd like to be somewhat prepared for it. So, is there a configuration that allows you to keep the engine idling, yet gives a reasonable approximation of the prop stopped glide. Does 1/2 flaps do it?, Does it take full flaps? etc. KB ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott VanArtsdalen" <svanarts(at)yahoo.com> Subject: RE: RV-List: Glide Characteristics > > Are we talking minimum sink or best glide here? They came out as two > dramatically different numbers on my -4. Best glide was around 95mph, > IIRC and somewhere in the 80's (probably around 85 given the other > responses) for minimum sink. > > -- > Scott VanArtsdalen > RV-4 N311SV > 4-ever! > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kyle Boatright > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Glide Characteristics > > > > Has anyone done power off (prop stopped) glide testing on their RV-6 or > RV-7? I was doing some airwork today and tried to simulate an engine > out no flaps landing, and the airplane simply didn't want to come down. > With the engine at idle, the rate of descent was only 350 FPM, which > tells me that my high pitched prop was still generating some thrust. > > Does an engine idling glide with half flaps provide a good > representation of the glide with no flaps and the prop stopped? How > about full flaps? My goal here is to get a feel for what the airplane's > performance would be if I actually suffered an engine out event. By the > way, I'm not brave enough these days to do the actual engine out > routine... ;-) > > Thanks in advance, > > KB > > > = > = > = > = > > > = = = = ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 24, 2004
From: Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: Glide Characteristics
> >My question concerns best glide. > >E.G: If I ever have an engine out situation, I'd like to be somewhat >prepared for it. So, is there a configuration that allows you to keep the >engine idling, yet gives a reasonable approximation of the prop stopped >glide. Does 1/2 flaps do it?, Does it take full flaps? etc. > >KB > There is no generally applicable answer to your question. The answer will be different for every prop model, and will also depend on your idle rpm, as it depends on how much thrust your prop produces at what your best glide speed is. You could do some flight testing to see what flap angle works for your aircraft. If you use this technique for training, you need to understand that the use of flap to simulate a failed engine will only be accurate at one speed. -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit) Ottawa, Canada http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Oldsfolks(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 24, 2004
Subject: Re: Medical Question
Matt: I printed out the list of medications from AOPA website for my reference. I sent the FAA two pounds of medical records and upbeat letters from two doctors showing my condition was overcome. I am working as hard as ever with no ill effects, but I have heard nothing yet from FAA. They got my packet on 7-16-04 and then I asked AOPA to check the status on 9-13-04. I have heard NOTHING from either. Meantime our 60 hour RV-4 sits awaiting my return to flying status. Work on getting your blood pressure down by means other than medication if you can. Start a daily walking regimen ,change your diet and maybe stop coffee. I stopped coffee after 50 years of 1/2 to 1 gallon a day , so you CAN do it. My irregular heartbeat is gone now. Good luck , and I hope you don't have to tangle with the "Special Issuance" jungle in the furure. Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor Charleston,Arkansas Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Oldsfolks(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 24, 2004
Subject: Re: FNG Questions
I use the tank pressure in my PVC airlines around the shop with a regulator plugged in where I plug in the rivet gun. I have several outlets near my jig so that I can plug my air drill into the line pressure. The little regulator on the rivet gun just restricts the flow to change the gun strokes ,as the pressure drops there. I use a #2 gun @ 45 PSI on 3/32 and a #4 @ 60 PSI for 1/8. You need to test on scrap for proper pressure settings on your equipment. Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor Charleston,Arkansas Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Oldsfolks(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 24, 2004
Subject: Re: Tailcone
Sounds like the marriage thing was job security ! Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor Charleston,Arkansas Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Oldsfolks(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 24, 2004
Subject: Re: Elevator balancing/counter weights
I had read that a positive balance(slightly nose heavy) was preferable on elevators. You must also allow for (guestimate if unpainted) the difference after painting. I had my RV-4 counterweights nose down by 3" or so before painting and they were about 1" down after paint. Testing to 235 MPH has been done with do vibration or flutter. Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor Charleston,Arkansas Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 24, 2004
From: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Aircraft Wiring
Terry, I've read the original post by Greg. (Horrible spelling and syntex). Bob's critique was very well reasoned. I'm trying to figure out a way to ask Bob what I need to know (without pissing him off) :-( Greg definitely seemed to take Bob's comments as a personal affront. I posted to his bulletin board. I seconded your request for REASONS why Bob is wrong or he is right. I just got home. Been getting ready for our 4th hurricane in as many weeks here. I haven't gone back to see if Greg has responded yet. Charlie > >Charlie, > >The critique (peer review?) by Bob Nuckolls of Greg Richter's "Aircraft >Wiring for Smart People" was on the Aeroelectric list and should be in the >aeroelectric archives, and possibly on Bob's website. It is embedded in a >copy of the original booklet. > >The original booklet can be downloaded from Blue Mountain's website >(bluemountainavionics.com). On the main menu, look for the downloads tab. > >Bob's review was quite critical in several areas. Greg's response on Blue >Mountain's discussion board could degenerated into something pretty >unprofessional, in my opinion. > > >Terry > > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Charlie Kuss >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: Aircraft Wiring > > >Mike > I just searched Blue Mountain's web site. I found neither the original >article, nor Greg's rebuttal to Bob's critique. Where can I find the >rebuttal? >Charlie Kuss > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fiveonepw(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 24, 2004
Subject: Re: FNG Questions Now flush set
In a message dated 09/24/2004 2:46:25 PM Central Standard Time, CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com writes: I have not sent the swivel head back yet. >>>>>>>>> Dont! You'll wish you hadn't! After waiting 2 weeks for your buckin' buddy to show 'cause he can only squeeze ya in between 8 & 10:00 p.m., when you REALLY start gettin' tired, that ol' swivel set will save your skin! 8-) From The PossumWorks in TN Mark - would'a ordered another'n but the original never wore out!! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 24, 2004
From: Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: Elevator balancing/counter weights
> >I had read that a positive balance(slightly nose heavy) was preferable on >elevators. You must also allow for (guestimate if unpainted) the difference >after painting. I had my RV-4 counterweights nose down by 3" or so before >painting and they were about 1" down after paint. Testing to 235 >MPH has been done >with do vibration or flutter. > There is onne thing to keep in mind for anyone who wants to leave their counterbalances a bit heavy to make up for the weight of a paint job. If the elevators are balanced so that they tend to go nose up, this will be worse when you are pulling g. The more g you pull, the more force there is on the counterweight pulling the elevator nose up, which will reduce the amount of stick force per g. Be careful when manoeuvring, especially at aft CG, as too light a stick force could lead to an overstress, or a pilot induced oscillation. -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit) Ottawa, Canada http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 24, 2004
From: Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Elevator balancing/counterweights
> >Michey, > >There used to be an AC with all kinds of generic information but that one is >long gone. Now almost all info is fond in manufacturer's maintenance manuls >(IE, Cessna, Piper). What you need to do is to suspend the control surface >from the hinges, then either add or remove weight from the counterweight >until the trailing edge and counterweights are on the same horizontal plane. > More specifically for the RV's I have found that if the trailing edge is >slightly heavy the controls seem to respond better and there is less chance >of control flutter at high speeds. By being slightly heavy I mean the >trailing edge 1-2 inches below the horizontal plane of the center of the >counter weight leading edge. > Just understand that Van's flutter analysis and flight testing is only valid if the elevators are balanced the way he says. Making the trailing edge heavier will increase the stick force per g, and reduce the tendency for a pilot induced oscillation. But it will increase the likelihood of aeroelastic flutter. -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit) Ottawa, Canada http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 24, 2004
From: Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca>
Subject: Re: Glide Characteristics
Randy Lervold wrote: > To add to Rob's comments, you'll find that the fine pitch stop setting on a > c/s prop can make a LARGE difference in sink rate also. While doing my prop > testing a while back I had occasion to change the fine pitch stop a bit and > wow, it provided an additional 300 fpm descent. To add to Randy's comments, a pilot acquaintance of mine had an unfortunate incident recently when he experienced engine problems in his high-powered single (certified). The engine vibration became so rough, that he decided it would be safer to shut it down before actually touching down, just to remove one possible piece of rotating damaged machinery from the equation. He shut the engine down while on final, but the windmilling prop happily drifted to fine pitch as the oil pressure dropped, and he landed quite a bit short of the runway. Possibly not as much of a problem in an RV, which is more to be set up for aerobatics (prop will go to coarse pitch when the oil pressure is lost), but still something to consider. -Rob ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 24, 2004
From: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Aircraft Wiring
Listers, I apologize for the post below. I meant it to be "off list" Charlie > >Terry, > I've read the original post by Greg. (Horrible spelling and syntex). >Bob's critique was very well reasoned. I'm trying to figure out a way to >ask Bob what I need to know (without pissing him off) :-( > Greg definitely seemed to take Bob's comments as a personal affront. I >posted to his bulletin board. I seconded your request for REASONS why Bob >is wrong or he is right. I just got home. Been getting ready for our 4th >hurricane in as many weeks here. I haven't gone back to see if Greg has >responded yet. >Charlie > > > > >Charlie, > > > >The critique (peer review?) by Bob Nuckolls of Greg Richter's "Aircraft > >Wiring for Smart People" was on the Aeroelectric list and should be in the > >aeroelectric archives, and possibly on Bob's website. It is embedded in a > >copy of the original booklet. > > > >The original booklet can be downloaded from Blue Mountain's website > >(bluemountainavionics.com). On the main menu, look for the downloads tab. > > > >Bob's review was quite critical in several areas. Greg's response on Blue > >Mountain's discussion board could degenerated into something pretty > >unprofessional, in my opinion. > > > > > >Terry > > > > > >-----Original Message----- > >From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > >[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Charlie Kuss > >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > >Subject: Re: RV-List: Aircraft Wiring > > > > > >Mike > > I just searched Blue Mountain's web site. I found neither the original > >article, nor Greg's rebuttal to Bob's critique. Where can I find the > >rebuttal? > >Charlie Kuss > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 24, 2004
From: Henry Hochberg <aeroncadoc(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Medical Question...
Matt: I'm a family doc and an AME. Some of the advice posted so far has been great (although I haven't seen any documented proof that aspirin lowers BP Cy unless it lowers it by controlling pain you might have). Best advice so far is to take care of your health first, you can always fly later if you have a condition that requires medical investigation. However, one high BP reading doesn't prove anything so that would be my first task...to get thirty or forty readings over a week and see where the majority are. If the majority are high, you've got to deal with it. Fortunately as has also been said, there are many approaches that can be used before you ever have to resort to drugs, especially if your general BP is only in the range you posted. Having said that, I hardly have any pilot patients in my family practice for whom I am also the AME and vice versa. There are good reasons to keep these two things separate. While atenolol is on the approved list as someone mentioned, the FAA places quite a paperwork burden for newly treated hypertension in terms of what has to be sent in and proven every renewal. You'd really like to avoid getting this flag if at all possible. If it isn't possible, you can fly and have hypertension. You can fly with lots of maladies, they just each come with a different set of paperwork and examination requirements. Henry Hochberg N72224 RV-6 KAWO ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: Glide Characteristics
Date: Sep 24, 2004
Au Contraire! Only if you have an aerobatic prop....which MOST RV's do not. I don't even know of any RV's with a counterweighted prop on them, by far the vast majority have standard C/S "pressure to coarse/fine on low pressure" setups on them. The C/S RV's sink like a rock in flat pitch at idle on approach. Cheers, Stein Bruch RV6's, Minneapolis -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rob Prior Subject: Re: RV-List: Glide Characteristics Possibly not as much of a problem in an RV, which is more to be set up for aerobatics (prop will go to coarse pitch when the oil pressure is lost), but still something to consider. -Rob ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Fenstermacher" <dfenstermacher(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: FNG Questions
Date: Sep 25, 2004
These settings are not mine. I stole them from Dan's website. Between his website and "Bunny's guide", you have pretty much all the info you need. I am about 1/2 through the tail, so I haven't tried all these settings, but what I have tried works well. http://www.rvproject.com/20020903.html#flap_hinge http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/bunnys-guide/rv/bunny/index.html AN426 Rivets: Rivet Type Air Pressure Duration AN426AD3-3 to 3-4 34 psi 1 second AN426AD3-4.5 to 3.5 37 psi 1 seconds AN426AD3-6 plus 40 psi 1 seconds AN426AD4-4 to 4-5 45 psi 1 second AN426AD4-6 to 4-9 50 psi 1 to 2 seconds AN470 Rivets: Rivet Type Air Pressure Duration AN470AD4-4 to 4-5 60 psi 1 second AN470AD4-6 to 4-7 60 psi 1 seconds AN470AD4-8 to 4-9 75 psi 1 seconds AN470AD4-9 plus 80 psi 1 to 2 seconds > [Original Message] > From: <Oldsfolks(at)aol.com> > To: > Date: 9/24/2004 9:35:42 PM > Subject: RV-List: Re: FNG Questions > > > I use the tank pressure in my PVC airlines around the shop with a regulator > plugged in where I plug in the rivet gun. I have several outlets near my jig > so that I can plug my air drill into the line pressure. > The little regulator on the rivet gun just restricts the flow to change the > gun strokes ,as the pressure drops there. > I use a #2 gun @ 45 PSI on 3/32 and a #4 @ 60 PSI for 1/8. You need to > test on scrap for proper pressure settings on your equipment. > > Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X > A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor > Charleston,Arkansas > Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 25, 2004
Subject: Re: Medical Question...
In a message dated 9/24/2004 9:18:50 AM Pacific Daylight Time, dralle(at)matronics.com writes: Okay, while this isn't exactly an RV related question, I couldn't think of a nicer bunch of guys to ask... :-) So the doctor says I've got "high blood pressure" and wants to put me on blood pressure medicine. In the office, I'm about 145/94 which I guess is on the high side for a 40-year old guy. Anyway, the doctor wrote me a prescription for "Atenolol", 25mg, once a day. My question is, will this particular blood pressure medicine be acceptable with regard to my flight physical (standard 3rd class for Private Pilot)? If not, what type would be acceptable? ======================================= Matt- I've been on the same medication and dosage as you since March this year and it is in fact listed as acceptable on the AOPA site. Isn't getting old a bitch? I will go thru all of the recommendations people have made prior to renewing my Class 3 next June. How's the plane coming? Gary VanRemortel (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 719 hrs) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 25, 2004
From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: Proseal vs. Proseal
Hi, I bought this stuff from Van's: http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?browse=misc&product=proseal but it does not seem to be the same stuff that was used on my QB tanks. The stuff on the QB tanks is much tougher, whereas the Van's fuel tank sealant is a bit rubbery, and about the strength of RTV. Does anyone know where I can find the really tough stuff? Thanks, Mickey -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wayne R. Couture" <commando@cox-internet.com>
Subject: Re: Medical Question...
Date: Sep 25, 2004
I am on the same medication. I am required to get a stress test and have my blood pressure checked three times before I go for my third class. Otherwise, no problemo! Wayne RV 8A Still wiring ----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com> Subject: RV-List: Medical Question... > > > Hello Listers, > > Okay, while this isn't exactly an RV related question, I couldn't think of > a nicer bunch of guys to ask... :-) > > So the doctor says I've got "high blood pressure" and wants to put me on > blood pressure medicine. In the office, I'm about 145/94 which I guess is > on the high side for a 40-year old guy. Anyway, the doctor wrote me a > prescription for "Atenolol", 25mg, once a day. > > My question is, will this particular blood pressure medicine be acceptable > with regard to my flight physical (standard 3rd class for Private Pilot)? > > If not, what type would be acceptable? > > Thanks for the input. > > Matt Dralle > > > Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 > 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email > http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Stratus Vacuum Pump
Date: Sep 25, 2004
3.60 ALT_MED Misspelled medication name I am planning on a pre-emptive rebuild of my Stratus 211CC vacuum pump. I have been unsuccessful finding anything about this pump in searches - is this name equivalent to some other brand? Thanks. Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN RV6-A N66AP 524 hours http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: Medical Question...
Date: Sep 25, 2004
I was under the impression that Aspirin thins the blood and therefore lowers BP. At least that is the reason that my Dr. gave. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Henry Hochberg" <aeroncadoc(at)comcast.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: Medical Question... > > Matt: > > I'm a family doc and an AME. Some of the advice posted so far has been > great (although I haven't seen any documented proof that aspirin lowers > BP Cy unless it lowers it by controlling pain you might have). Best > advice so far is to take care of your health first, you can always fly > later if you have a condition that requires medical investigation. > However, one high BP reading doesn't prove anything so that would be my > first task...to get thirty or forty readings over a week and see where > the majority are. If the majority are high, you've got to deal with it. > Fortunately as has also been said, there are many approaches that can be > used before you ever have to resort to drugs, especially if your general > BP is only in the range you posted. > > Having said that, I hardly have any pilot patients in my family practice > for whom I am also the AME and vice versa. There are good reasons to > keep these two things separate. While atenolol is on the approved list > as someone mentioned, the FAA places quite a paperwork burden for newly > treated hypertension in terms of what has to be sent in and proven every > renewal. You'd really like to avoid getting this flag if at all > possible. If it isn't possible, you can fly and have hypertension. You > can fly with lots of maladies, they just each come with a different set > of paperwork and examination requirements. > > Henry Hochberg > N72224 RV-6 KAWO > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 25, 2004
From: Henry Hochberg <aeroncadoc(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Medical Question...aspirin thinning the blood
> > > > Howdy Cy: Aspirin prevents the platelets in your blood from clumping together and causing clots that can clog up a narrowed artery therefore causing some heart attacks or strokes, but your blood doesn't actually get any thinner. The antiplatelet action has no effect on blood pressure though. Guess we'll all just have to exercise and lose weight after all. Henry H. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 25, 2004
Subject: Re: Medical Question...
From: lm4(at)juno.com
Matt, I take my pressure two or more times during a certian workout that I do three times a week. My pressure can read from 72 to 84 Sys and from 112 to 134 Dias. from day to day and from minute to minute. They are "before exercize and after exercize" As far as I'm concerned they are not very good gauges of B.P. A problem I have perceived is that Doctors take your press. when you come into thier office and it doesn't seem to matter where your heart rate is. To me that's confusing. At any rate, I guess I'll have to get off the coffee and try the walking discipline. I am writing this to you to suggest that when you visit your doctor you might sit in his office a few minuts to your heart rate to lower before you allow him to take your press. HTH. Larry Mac Donald Rochester N.Y. writes: > > > Hello Listers, > > Okay, while this isn't exactly an RV related question, I couldn't > think of > a nicer bunch of guys to ask... :-) > > So the doctor says I've got "high blood pressure" and wants to put > me on > blood pressure medicine. In the office, I'm about 145/94 which I > guess is > on the high side for a 40-year old guy. Anyway, the doctor wrote me > a > prescription for "Atenolol", 25mg, once a day. > > My question is, will this particular blood pressure medicine be > acceptable > with regard to my flight physical (standard 3rd class for Private > Pilot)? > > If not, what type would be acceptable? > > Thanks for the input. > > Matt Dralle > > > Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 > 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email > http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 25, 2004
From: David Nelson <david.nelson(at)pobox.com>
Subject: Re: Proseal vs. Proseal
Hi Mickey, Don't if it makes any difference, but possibly the QB proseal has had a much longer time to cure. Since it's a chemical reaction, I wonder if it ever _really_ stops curing. Kinda like cement, it becomes harder and harder as time goes on. Regards, /\/elson Austin, TX RV-7A - Left wing/tank On Sat, 25 Sep 2004, Mickey Coggins wrote: > > Hi, > > I bought this stuff from Van's: > > http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?browse=misc&product=proseal > > but it does not seem to be the same stuff that was used > on my QB tanks. The stuff on the QB tanks is much tougher, > whereas the Van's fuel tank sealant is a bit rubbery, and > about the strength of RTV. > > Does anyone know where I can find the really tough stuff? > > Thanks, > Mickey > > > -- > Mickey Coggins > http://www.rv8.ch/ > #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: Medical Question...
Date: Sep 25, 2004
Some people's BP rises when taken by Doctor or Nurse. ----- Original Message ----- From: <lm4(at)juno.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Medical Question... > > Matt, > I take my pressure two or more times during a certian workout > that I do three times a week. My pressure can read from 72 to 84 Sys > and from 112 to 134 Dias. from day to day and from minute to minute. > They are "before exercize and after exercize" As far as I'm concerned > they are not very good gauges of B.P. A problem I have perceived is > that Doctors take your press. when you come into thier office and it > doesn't seem to matter where your heart rate is. To me that's confusing. > At any rate, I guess I'll have to get off the coffee and try the > walking discipline. I am writing this to you to suggest that when you > visit your doctor you might sit in his office a few minuts to your heart > rate to lower before you allow him to take your press. HTH. > Larry Mac Donald > Rochester N.Y. > > > writes: > > > > > > Hello Listers, > > > > Okay, while this isn't exactly an RV related question, I couldn't > > think of > > a nicer bunch of guys to ask... :-) > > > > So the doctor says I've got "high blood pressure" and wants to put > > me on > > blood pressure medicine. In the office, I'm about 145/94 which I > > guess is > > on the high side for a 40-year old guy. Anyway, the doctor wrote me > > a > > prescription for "Atenolol", 25mg, once a day. > > > > My question is, will this particular blood pressure medicine be > > acceptable > > with regard to my flight physical (standard 3rd class for Private > > Pilot)? > > > > If not, what type would be acceptable? > > > > Thanks for the input. > > > > Matt Dralle > > > > > > Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 > > 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email > > http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "steve zicree" <szicree(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Proseal vs. Proseal
Date: Sep 25, 2004
Don't know about different versions of sealer, but it's worth noting that it takes quite a while for this stuff to cure fully. It starts to thicken after about 20 minutes as I remember, but takes several days to get really tough. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> Subject: RV-List: Proseal vs. Proseal > > Hi, > > I bought this stuff from Van's: > > http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?browse=misc&product=proseal > > but it does not seem to be the same stuff that was used > on my QB tanks. The stuff on the QB tanks is much tougher, > whereas the Van's fuel tank sealant is a bit rubbery, and > about the strength of RTV. > > Does anyone know where I can find the really tough stuff? > > Thanks, > Mickey > > > -- > Mickey Coggins > http://www.rv8.ch/ > #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "steve zicree" <szicree(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Medical Question...
Date: Sep 25, 2004
I can vouch heartily for this one. My BP, when taken by a friend, has never gotten above 110/80, but always goes crazy-high when the doctor does it. I admit to being a big baby about those white coats and stuff. Oh, the shame! ----- Original Message ----- From: "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> Subject: Re: RV-List: Medical Question... > > Some people's BP rises when taken by Doctor or Nurse. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: <lm4(at)juno.com> > To: > Subject: Re: RV-List: Medical Question... > > > > > > Matt, > > I take my pressure two or more times during a certian workout > > that I do three times a week. My pressure can read from 72 to 84 Sys > > and from 112 to 134 Dias. from day to day and from minute to minute. > > They are "before exercize and after exercize" As far as I'm concerned > > they are not very good gauges of B.P. A problem I have perceived is > > that Doctors take your press. when you come into thier office and it > > doesn't seem to matter where your heart rate is. To me that's confusing. > > At any rate, I guess I'll have to get off the coffee and try the > > walking discipline. I am writing this to you to suggest that when you > > visit your doctor you might sit in his office a few minuts to your heart > > rate to lower before you allow him to take your press. HTH. > > Larry Mac Donald > > Rochester N.Y. > > > > > > writes: > > > > > > > > > Hello Listers, > > > > > > Okay, while this isn't exactly an RV related question, I couldn't > > > think of > > > a nicer bunch of guys to ask... :-) > > > > > > So the doctor says I've got "high blood pressure" and wants to put > > > me on > > > blood pressure medicine. In the office, I'm about 145/94 which I > > > guess is > > > on the high side for a 40-year old guy. Anyway, the doctor wrote me > > > a > > > prescription for "Atenolol", 25mg, once a day. > > > > > > My question is, will this particular blood pressure medicine be > > > acceptable > > > with regard to my flight physical (standard 3rd class for Private > > > Pilot)? > > > > > > If not, what type would be acceptable? > > > > > > Thanks for the input. > > > > > > Matt Dralle > > > > > > > > > Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 > > > 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email > > > http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 25, 2004
From: Hal / Carol Kempthorne <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Lycoming Power Settings and Break-In Techniques
At 03:38 PM 9/23/2004, you wrote: > > I cannot believe that Lycoming sells you a $23,000 engine >and then gives you operational documentation that is so pathetic it is >outclassed by that which comes with a (Honda lawnmower from Home Depot. Just think how outclassed the Lyc engine would be if Honda made one! My manual with new O-360 was not only unreadable, it was also oil soaked. hal ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 25, 2004
From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: Re: Proseal vs. Proseal
David Nelson Hi, Thanks for the info. It's been curing since August 16th, so I figure if it was going to get much tougher, that should be enough time. My shop is pretty cool, tho, about 15-19c. It seems that the stuff they used in the QB is different from what I bought from Van's. Could it be this stuff they sell at ACS: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/ps890.php Thanks, Mickey >Don't know about different versions of sealer, but it's worth noting that it >takes quite a while for this stuff to cure fully. It starts to thicken after >about 20 minutes as I remember, but takes several days to get really tough. > > >> Hi, >> >> I bought this stuff from Van's: >> >> >http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?browse=misc&product=proseal >> >> but it does not seem to be the same stuff that was used >> on my QB tanks. The stuff on the QB tanks is much tougher, >> whereas the Van's fuel tank sealant is a bit rubbery, and >> about the strength of RTV. >> >> Does anyone know where I can find the really tough stuff? >> >> Thanks, >> Mickey >> >> -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 25, 2004
From: "n255gh(at)frontiernet.net" <n255gh(at)frontiernet.net>
Subject: fuel injection
To rv-list I have a io 320 e2b with a bendix rsa 5ad1 fuel injection system. I'm looking for a good book or other form of information that would show me how to pipe it up.It has three piping port one is fuel supply, the other is metered fuel and, there is another small line that goes somewhere. I have no idea. Any help would be appreciated. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim & Bev Cone" <jimnbev(at)olypen.com>
Subject: Re: Glide Characteristics
Date: Sep 25, 2004
One way to increase the glide distance with a C/S prop is to pull the prop control all the way out so the pitch is not so flat. That makes it more like a fixed pitch prop as far as drag is concerned. Jim Cone 3-Peat Offender ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott(at)telus.net>
Subject: Re: fuel injection
Date: Sep 25, 2004
I suspect that would be the tap for the two-needle gauge, with the top half being manifold pressure and the bottom dial that reads in gallons-per-hour, but actually senses fuel pressure. Scott in Vancouver ----- Original Message ----- From: <n255gh(at)frontiernet.net> Subject: RV-List: fuel injection > > > > To rv-list > > I have a io 320 e2b with a bendix rsa 5ad1 fuel injection system. I'm > looking for a good book or other form of information that would show > me how to pipe it up.It has three piping port one is fuel supply, the > other is metered fuel and, there is another small line that goes > somewhere. I have no idea. Any help would be appreciated. > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Elevator balancing/counterweights
Date: Sep 25, 2004
Nobody is responding to the rudder balancing portion of your question Mickey. The counterweight is not heavy enough to balance the rudder so just use the entire weight as far forward as it will mount. The result will just be 'less unbalanced'. Dave Reel - RV8A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 25, 2004
From: linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: fuel injection
n255gh(at)frontiernet.net wrote: > > > To rv-list > >I have a io 320 e2b with a bendix rsa 5ad1 fuel injection system. I'm >looking for a good book or other form of information that would show >me how to pipe it up.It has three piping port one is fuel supply, the >other is metered fuel and, there is another small line that goes >somewhere. I have no idea. Any help would be appreciated. > > This is a real WAG, but could it be fuel pressure??? I don't know a whole lot about FI, but I'm learning. Linn > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dean Pichon" <DeanPichon(at)msn.com>
Subject: Proseal vs. Proseal
Date: Sep 25, 2004
There are lots of polysulfide sealers and quite a few variations of ProSeal - the most well known trade name for a polysulfide sealer. Some time ago PPG purchased the DeSoto company and the ProSeal trade name. Their website has good info on selecting the appropriate grade for a given application. For instance there is a high seal/low adhesion variant for use on access ports in fuel tanks. Seals well, but has low shear strength. If your product is a ProSeal product you can cross reference the P/N on the website and see exactly what you have. The website is below: http://www.ppg.com/prc-desoto/main.asp?img=seal&menuID=3&contLvl=fuelstd &catID=8&prodLvl=na&prodID=8 Good luck, Dean Pichon Bolton, MA RV-4, 220 hrs -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mickey Coggins Subject: RV-List: Proseal vs. Proseal Hi, I bought this stuff from Van's: http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?browse=misc&product=pros eal but it does not seem to be the same stuff that was used on my QB tanks. The stuff on the QB tanks is much tougher, whereas the Van's fuel tank sealant is a bit rubbery, and about the strength of RTV. Does anyone know where I can find the really tough stuff? Thanks, Mickey -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage = direct advertising on the Matronics Forums. = = = ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RE: Flap Skin Part Number?
From: "" <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com>
Date: Sep 25, 2004
Actually, I answered my own question. It appears the flaps are not the same. The hole patterns are clearly very different between the 7 flap spar and 8 skin. Also, as I thought about it, I realized that it would make sense that the 8 flap was a little longer (since the fuselage is more narrow). Great start to a now unproductive weekend (and probably week) waiting for new skins to arrive. Scott 7A Wings www.scottsrv7a.com ............................. Stupid question that I can't believe I cannot find in the archives... My plans call for 701 and 702 as the flap skins (it's a 7A). The skins I have are labeled 801 and 802. I assume they are the same? I think it is the same wing, but I thought I would double-check before drilling the skin. ...................... Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com The most personalized portal on the Web! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Fenstermacher" <dfenstermacher(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Proseal vs. Proseal
Date: Sep 25, 2004
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1096111559-2-645&brows e=misc&product=proseal Van's website (above) says "replaces older proseal". Not sure if it's new or just not the tradename 'ProSeal'. > [Original Message] > From: David Nelson <david.nelson(at)pobox.com> > To: > Date: 9/25/2004 11:43:38 AM > Subject: Re: RV-List: Proseal vs. Proseal > > > Hi Mickey, > > Don't if it makes any difference, but possibly the QB proseal has had a much > longer time to cure. Since it's a chemical reaction, I wonder if it ever > _really_ stops curing. Kinda like cement, it becomes harder and harder as time > goes on. > > Regards, > /\/elson > Austin, TX > RV-7A - Left wing/tank > > > On Sat, 25 Sep 2004, Mickey Coggins wrote: > > > > > Hi, > > > > I bought this stuff from Van's: > > > > http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?browse=misc&product=proseal > > > > but it does not seem to be the same stuff that was used > > on my QB tanks. The stuff on the QB tanks is much tougher, > > whereas the Van's fuel tank sealant is a bit rubbery, and > > about the strength of RTV. > > > > Does anyone know where I can find the really tough stuff? > > > > Thanks, > > Mickey > > > > > > -- > > Mickey Coggins > > http://www.rv8.ch/ > > #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: plaurence@the-beach.net
Date: Sep 25, 2004
Subject: Re: Proseal vs. Proseal
Proseal comes in two or three viscosities. Check with wiicks Aircraft http://www.wicksaircraft.com Peter Laurence On 25 Sep 2004 at 18:21, David Fenstermacher wrote: > > > > http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1096111559-2-645 > &brows e=misc&product=proseal > > Van's website (above) says "replaces older proseal". > Not sure if it's new or just not the tradename 'ProSeal'. > > > > [Original Message] > > From: David Nelson <david.nelson(at)pobox.com> > > To: > > Date: 9/25/2004 11:43:38 AM > > Subject: Re: RV-List: Proseal vs. Proseal > > > > > > > > Hi Mickey, > > > > Don't if it makes any difference, but possibly the QB proseal has > > had a > much > > longer time to cure. Since it's a chemical reaction, I wonder if it > > ever _really_ stops curing. Kinda like cement, it becomes harder > > and harder > as time > > goes on. > > > > Regards, > > /\/elson > > Austin, TX > > RV-7A - Left wing/tank > > > > > > On Sat, 25 Sep 2004, Mickey Coggins wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > Hi, > > > > > > I bought this stuff from Van's: > > > > > > > http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?browse=misc&product=pr > oseal > > > > but it does not seem to be the same stuff that was used > > > on my QB tanks. The stuff on the QB tanks is much tougher, > > > whereas the Van's fuel tank sealant is a bit rubbery, and > > about > the strength of RTV. > > > > Does anyone know where I can find the > really tough stuff? > > > > Thanks, > > Mickey > > > > > > -- > > > Mickey Coggins > > http://www.rv8.ch/ > > #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > advertising on the Matronics Forums. > http://www.matronics.com/chat > === > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DonEavesRV6" <DonEavesRV6(at)midsouth.rr.com>
Subject: Rudder Cracks @ Last Rivet On Forward End of Stiffeners
Date: Sep 26, 2004
I Discovered cracks on my RV6 Rudder running from the last rivet on the forward end of the stiffeners behind the spar - Did not have any cracks on the trailing edge which is in Vans instructions to add a gob of tank / pro-seal - Searched the archives and found 38+- post under Rudder Cracks - Many were about forward cracks - Most fixed the problem by stop drilling the cracks - Noted the RV10 rudder attaches the forward end of stiffeners to the spar - I discovered 1 crack on an RV4 @ my airport - I suspect if we did a fleet inspection we would find more aircraft with cracks in the rudder and elevator at either end of the stiffeners - I use slips to landing and attribute my cracks to that and engine run-up shaking - Anyway this is a point needing structural improvement in future rudders and noted Vans attached the forward end of the stiffeners on the 10. I plan to build a new rudder - I will attach the stiffeners to the spar - Don Eaves RV6 Flown 235 +- Hrs - Currently installing: Garman 155XL GPS, KN53 Nav and Autopilot. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Figgins" <2004nospam(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Rudder Cracks @ Last Rivet On Forward End of Stiffeners

Date: Sep 26, 2004
As I am just in the process of doing the rudder for my -7A (and just cut the stiffeners to length yesterday :( ) is there anything I should do to help prevent the same situation such as putting proseal around the front to dampen vibration? Dave Figgins empennage -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DonEavesRV6 Subject: RV-List: Rudder Cracks @ Last Rivet On Forward End of Stiffeners --> I Discovered cracks on my RV6 Rudder running from the last rivet on the forward end of the stiffeners behind the spar - Did not have any cracks on the trailing edge which is in Vans instructions to add a gob of tank / pro-seal - Searched the archives and found 38+- post under Rudder Cracks - Many were about forward cracks - Most fixed the problem by stop drilling the cracks - Noted the RV10 rudder attaches the forward end of stiffeners to the spar - I discovered 1 crack on an RV4 @ my airport - I suspect if we did a fleet inspection we would find more aircraft with cracks in the rudder and elevator at either end of the stiffeners - I use slips to landing and attribute my cracks to that and engine run-up shaking - Anyway this is a point needing structural improvement in future rudders and noted Vans attached the forward end of the stiffeners on the 10. I plan to build a new rudder - I will attach the stiffeners to the spar - Don Eaves RV6 Flown 235 +- Hrs - Currently installing: Garman 155XL GPS, KN53 Nav and Autopilot. advertising on the Matronics Forums. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Rudder Cracks @ Last Rivet On Forward End of Stiffeners
Date: Sep 26, 2004
Dave: I'll chime in here with one suggestion. From what I have gathered from previous discussions on the topic, one factor that contributes to these cracks is preloading the skin. If you do not pre-bend the skin sides at their forward edge so that they overlap each other without needing to force them into position, you will put too much stress on the area where the stiffeners end. The skin tends to try to bow out just past the rudder spar if you need to hold the skins together with a lot of force to form the leading edge. Just watch that area as you Pre-form the skins and you will see what I mean. Hope this helps. Regards, Jeff Orear RV6A N782P (reserved) firewall forward Peshtigo, WI ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Figgins" <2004nospam(at)earthlink.net> Subject: RE: RV-List: Rudder Cracks @ Last Rivet On Forward End of Stiffeners > > As I am just in the process of doing the rudder for my -7A (and just cut > the stiffeners to length yesterday :( ) is there anything I should do to

September 17, 2004 - September 26, 2004

RV-Archive.digest.vol-pu