RV-Archive.digest.vol-pv
September 26, 2004 - October 06, 2004
> help prevent the same situation such as putting proseal around the front
> to
> dampen vibration?
>
>
> Dave Figgins empennage
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DonEavesRV6
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Rudder Cracks @ Last Rivet On Forward End of Stiffeners
>
> -->
>
> I Discovered cracks on my RV6 Rudder running from the last rivet on the
> forward end of the stiffeners behind the spar - Did not have any cracks on
> the trailing edge which is in Vans instructions to add a gob of tank /
> pro-seal -
>
> Searched the archives and found 38+- post under Rudder Cracks - Many were
> about forward cracks - Most fixed the problem by stop drilling the
> cracks -
> Noted the RV10 rudder attaches the forward end of stiffeners to the spar -
>
> I discovered 1 crack on an RV4 @ my airport - I suspect if we did a fleet
> inspection we would find more aircraft with cracks in the rudder and
> elevator at either end of the stiffeners -
>
> I use slips to landing and attribute my cracks to that and engine run-up
> shaking - Anyway this is a point needing structural improvement in future
> rudders and noted Vans attached the forward end of the stiffeners on the
> 10.
> I plan to build a new rudder - I will attach the stiffeners to the spar -
>
> Don Eaves
> RV6 Flown 235 +- Hrs - Currently installing: Garman 155XL GPS, KN53 Nav
> and
> Autopilot.
>
>
> advertising on the Matronics Forums.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> Stiffeners |
| Subject: | Rudder Cracks @ Last Rivet On Forward End of |
Stiffeners
I believe that RV-6s had 0.016" rudder skins. My RV-8 has 0.020"
rudder skins. If the RV-7 has the thicker rudder skins that might be
enough to address the problem.
Don - how thick is your rudder skin?
Kevin Horton
>
> As I am just in the process of doing the rudder for my -7A (and just cut
>the stiffeners to length yesterday :( ) is there anything I should do to
>help prevent the same situation such as putting proseal around the front to
>dampen vibration?
>
>
>Dave Figgins empennage
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DonEavesRV6
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Rudder Cracks @ Last Rivet On Forward End of Stiffeners
>
>-->
>
>I Discovered cracks on my RV6 Rudder running from the last rivet on the
>forward end of the stiffeners behind the spar - Did not have any cracks on
>the trailing edge which is in Vans instructions to add a gob of tank /
>pro-seal -
>
>Searched the archives and found 38+- post under Rudder Cracks - Many were
>about forward cracks - Most fixed the problem by stop drilling the cracks -
>Noted the RV10 rudder attaches the forward end of stiffeners to the spar -
>
>I discovered 1 crack on an RV4 @ my airport - I suspect if we did a fleet
>inspection we would find more aircraft with cracks in the rudder and
>elevator at either end of the stiffeners -
>
>I use slips to landing and attribute my cracks to that and engine run-up
>shaking - Anyway this is a point needing structural improvement in future
>rudders and noted Vans attached the forward end of the stiffeners on the 10.
>I plan to build a new rudder - I will attach the stiffeners to the spar -
>
>Don Eaves
>RV6 Flown 235 +- Hrs - Currently installing: Garman 155XL GPS, KN53 Nav and
>Autopilot.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cracks @ Last Rivet On Forward End of Stiffeners |
Don,
In building my RV-3B empennage, which also has the .016 rudder and elevator
skins, I researched this quite a bit not wanting to get the cracking myself.
I considered upsizing to .020 skins but Van talked me out of it. I used the
approach detailed here...
http://www.romeolima.com/RV3works/Airframe/airframe.htm#Empennage
Randy Lervold
----- Original Message -----
From: "DonEavesRV6" <DonEavesRV6(at)midsouth.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: Rudder Cracks @ Last Rivet On Forward End of Stiffeners
>
> I Discovered cracks on my RV6 Rudder running from the last rivet on the
forward end of the stiffeners behind the spar -
> Did not have any cracks on the trailing edge which is in Vans instructions
to add a gob of tank / pro-seal -
>
> Searched the archives and found 38+- post under Rudder Cracks -
> Many were about forward cracks -
> Most fixed the problem by stop drilling the cracks -
> Noted the RV10 rudder attaches the forward end of stiffeners to the spar -
>
> I discovered 1 crack on an RV4 @ my airport -
> I suspect if we did a fleet inspection we would find more aircraft with
cracks in the rudder and elevator at either end of the stiffeners -
>
> I use slips to landing and attribute my cracks to that and engine run-up
shaking -
> Anyway this is a point needing structural improvement in future rudders
and noted Vans attached the forward end of the stiffeners on the 10.
> I plan to build a new rudder - I will attach the stiffeners to the spar -
>
> Don Eaves
> RV6 Flown 235 +- Hrs - Currently installing: Garman 155XL GPS, KN53 Nav
and Autopilot.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank Cuba" <collrev(at)hamilton.net> |
| Subject: | Flap useage for short field takeoff |
I'll be a RV6 owner in the next couple days. 150hp fixed pitch Props Inc prop.
RPM on rollout is 2250. I would have prefered a constant speed for my short field
but that is not the case at this time. My strip is 1500', 25' obstruction
on one end, turf, mowed short and well packed, 1500' elv. I have 700 plus hours
in tailwheel and operate a Sonex, Citabria, and RANS experimentals with no problems
from this strip.
After searching the archives on short field performance of the RV, I see many
posts on landing, nearly none on takeoff. I have landed two different RV6's
and don't feel landing will be the big issue.
My question is on flap usage for short, possibly soft field takeoff. What is
working the best? Some flaps, no flaps, flaps deployed just before rotation?
I plan on practicing at a local grass strip for a few hours before I try my
strip and would like to here some combinations that have worked for others.
Thanks
Frank Cuba
Silver Creek NE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap useage for short field takeoff |
I use half flaps on short field takeoffs. Full flaps gets you off the ground
a little sooner, but acceleration really suffers once airborne.
With a 1500' strip, I think your landings will be much more interesting than
your takeoffs.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frank Cuba" <collrev(at)hamilton.net>
Subject: RV-List: Flap useage for short field takeoff
>
> I'll be a RV6 owner in the next couple days. 150hp fixed pitch Props Inc
> prop. RPM on rollout is 2250. I would have prefered a constant speed for
> my short field but that is not the case at this time. My strip is 1500',
> 25' obstruction on one end, turf, mowed short and well packed, 1500' elv.
> I have 700 plus hours in tailwheel and operate a Sonex, Citabria, and RANS
> experimentals with no problems from this strip.
> After searching the archives on short field performance of the RV, I
> see many posts on landing, nearly none on takeoff. I have landed two
> different RV6's and don't feel landing will be the big issue.
> My question is on flap usage for short, possibly soft field takeoff.
> What is working the best? Some flaps, no flaps, flaps deployed just before
> rotation?
> I plan on practicing at a local grass strip for a few hours before I
> try my strip and would like to here some combinations that have worked for
> others.
>
> Thanks
> Frank Cuba
> Silver Creek NE
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal / Carol Kempthorne <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> Stiffeners |
| Subject: | Rudder Cracks @ Last Rivet On Forward End of |
Stiffeners
Stiffeners
Making small changes in the design of the rudder such as attaching
stiffeners to spar might call for flutter testing - or am I wrong?
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> Stiffeners |
| Subject: | Rudder Cracks @ Last Rivet On Forward End of |
Stiffeners
> Stiffeners
>
>Making small changes in the design of the rudder such as attaching
>stiffeners to spar might call for flutter testing - or am I wrong?
>
Anything that adds weight aft of the hinge line would probably reduce
the airspeed at which flutter would occur. The sensitivity to the
added weight increases as the distance from the hinge line increases.
Minor changes at the rudder spar would be have less effect on flutter
than adding an electric rudder trim tab. I've seen several RVs with
electric rudder trim tabs, and none of them have had flutter
accidents to my knowledge.
A minor weight increase at the rudder spar would probably have a
minimal effect on flutter speed, in my opinion. But I am not an
aero-elastic flutter specialist, so this opinion is worth what was
paid for it.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "GMC" <gmcnutt(at)uniserve.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder Oil Canning Question - was Cracks @ Last Rivet |
Oil Canning Change?
I have a question for anyone about to do the leading edge bend (curl) on
their rudder. I seem to have acquired some oil canning of the rudder skins
(7A) that I don't think was there before I rolled the skin leading edge.
Could someone about to do this leading edge bend check to see if they notice
any before/after change in oil canning of the skins (between stiffeners)
after doing the bend and let me know.
The oil canning on the 7A rudder skins is more of a rolling in/out motion in
the skin between the stiffeners similar to what I have on my 6A (no cracks
at 335 hrs).
Thanks,
George McNutt
Langley BC
6A flying
7A waiting for wings.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jeff Orear
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rudder Cracks @ Last Rivet On Forward End of
Stiffeners
Dave:
I'll chime in here with one suggestion. From what I have gathered from
previous discussions on the topic, one factor that contributes to these
cracks is preloading the skin.
If you do not pre-bend the skin sides at their forward edge so that they
overlap each other without needing to force them into position, you will put
too much stress on the area where the stiffeners end. The skin tends to try
to bow out just past the rudder spar if you need to hold the skins together
with a lot of force to form the leading edge. Just watch that area as you
Pre-form the skins and you will see what I mean.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P (reserved)
firewall forward
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Figgins" <2004nospam(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Rudder Cracks @ Last Rivet On Forward End of
Stiffeners
>
> As I am just in the process of doing the rudder for my -7A (and just cut
> the stiffeners to length yesterday :( ) is there anything I should do to
> help prevent the same situation such as putting proseal around the front
> to
> dampen vibration?
>
>
> Dave Figgins empennage
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DonEavesRV6
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Rudder Cracks @ Last Rivet On Forward End of Stiffeners
>
> -->
>
> I Discovered cracks on my RV6 Rudder running from the last rivet on the
> forward end of the stiffeners behind the spar - Did not have any cracks on
> the trailing edge which is in Vans instructions to add a gob of tank /
> pro-seal -
>
> Searched the archives and found 38+- post under Rudder Cracks - Many were
> about forward cracks - Most fixed the problem by stop drilling the
> cracks -
> Noted the RV10 rudder attaches the forward end of stiffeners to the spar -
>
> I discovered 1 crack on an RV4 @ my airport - I suspect if we did a fleet
> inspection we would find more aircraft with cracks in the rudder and
> elevator at either end of the stiffeners -
>
> I use slips to landing and attribute my cracks to that and engine run-up
> shaking - Anyway this is a point needing structural improvement in future
> rudders and noted Vans attached the forward end of the stiffeners on the
> 10.
> I plan to build a new rudder - I will attach the stiffeners to the spar -
>
> Don Eaves
> RV6 Flown 235 +- Hrs - Currently installing: Garman 155XL GPS, KN53 Nav
> and
> Autopilot.
>
>
> advertising on the Matronics Forums.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | List: fuel injection |
There should be three port- fuel in, fuel out, and fuel inlet pressure to
the gauge.
Precision airmotive has a free DVD on maintenance, troubleshooting, and hot
starting the RSA system. The manuals on operation and service, Training,
and Troubleshooting are about $15 each. 360-651-8282,
www.precisionairmotive,com
Glen Matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
> From: "n255gh(at)frontiernet.net" <n255gh(at)frontiernet.net>
> Subject: RV-List: fuel injection
>
>
>
> To rv-list
>
> I have a io 320 e2b with a bendix rsa 5ad1 fuel injection system. I'm
> looking for a good book or other form of information that would show
> me how to pipe it up.It has three piping port one is fuel supply, the
> other is metered fuel and, there is another small line that goes
> somewhere. I have no idea. Any help would be appreciated.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alan Ferguson" <aferg(at)incoservices.com> |
| Subject: | RV8 Wing Kit For Sale |
0.00 DATE_IN_FUTURE_03_06 Date: is 3 to 6 hours after Received: date
RV8 pre-punched wing kit for sale. Materials are in the original
shipment crates. Kit includes the capacitive fuel sender and two
leading edge landing / taxi lights. Located in the Atlanta area. Also
have a partially completed RV8 empennage that I will also sell with the
wing kit. Contact me at e-mail aferg(at)incoservices.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nels Hanson <pa201950(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap useage for short field takeoff |
Half flaps is my recommendation. The problem will come
in getting your RV stopped. The engine will take care
of the takeoff,but the pilot is the big variable on
the landing. Practice slow flight a lot at
altitude,ect.,so you can bring it in slow.
--- Kyle Boatright wrote:
>
>
> I use half flaps on short field takeoffs. Full flaps
> gets you off the ground
> a little sooner, but acceleration really suffers
> once airborne.
>
> With a 1500' strip, I think your landings will be
> much more interesting than
> your takeoffs.
>
> KB
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Frank Cuba" <collrev(at)hamilton.net>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Flap useage for short field
> takeoff
>
>
>
> >
> > I'll be a RV6 owner in the next couple days. 150hp
> fixed pitch Props Inc
> > prop. RPM on rollout is 2250. I would have
> prefered a constant speed for
> > my short field but that is not the case at this
> time. My strip is 1500',
> > 25' obstruction on one end, turf, mowed short and
> well packed, 1500' elv.
> > I have 700 plus hours in tailwheel and operate a
> Sonex, Citabria, and RANS
> > experimentals with no problems from this strip.
> > After searching the archives on short field
> performance of the RV, I
> > see many posts on landing, nearly none on takeoff.
> I have landed two
> > different RV6's and don't feel landing will be the
> big issue.
> > My question is on flap usage for short,
> possibly soft field takeoff.
> > What is working the best? Some flaps, no flaps,
> flaps deployed just before
> > rotation?
> > I plan on practicing at a local grass strip for
> a few hours before I
> > try my strip and would like to here some
> combinations that have worked for
> > others.
> >
> > Thanks
> > Frank Cuba
> > Silver Creek NE
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DonEavesRV6" <DonEavesRV6(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cracks @ Last Rivet On Forward End of Stiffeners |
.020
Don Eaves
RV6 Flying
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Horton" <khorton01(at)rogers.com>; <Stiffeners(at)columbus.rr.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Rudder Cracks @ Last Rivet On Forward End of
Stiffeners
Stiffeners
>
> I believe that RV-6s had 0.016" rudder skins. My RV-8 has 0.020"
> rudder skins. If the RV-7 has the thicker rudder skins that might be
> enough to address the problem.
>
> Don - how thick is your rudder skin?
>
> Kevin Horton
>
>
> >
> > As I am just in the process of doing the rudder for my -7A (and just
cut
> >the stiffeners to length yesterday :( ) is there anything I should do to
> >help prevent the same situation such as putting proseal around the front
to
> >dampen vibration?
> >
> >
> >Dave Figgins empennage
> >
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> >[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DonEavesRV6
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RV-List: Rudder Cracks @ Last Rivet On Forward End of Stiffeners
> >
> >-->
> >
> >I Discovered cracks on my RV6 Rudder running from the last rivet on the
> >forward end of the stiffeners behind the spar - Did not have any cracks
on
> >the trailing edge which is in Vans instructions to add a gob of tank /
> >pro-seal -
> >
> >Searched the archives and found 38+- post under Rudder Cracks - Many were
> >about forward cracks - Most fixed the problem by stop drilling the
cracks -
> >Noted the RV10 rudder attaches the forward end of stiffeners to the
spar -
> >
> >I discovered 1 crack on an RV4 @ my airport - I suspect if we did a fleet
> >inspection we would find more aircraft with cracks in the rudder and
> >elevator at either end of the stiffeners -
> >
> >I use slips to landing and attribute my cracks to that and engine run-up
> >shaking - Anyway this is a point needing structural improvement in future
> >rudders and noted Vans attached the forward end of the stiffeners on the
10.
> >I plan to build a new rudder - I will attach the stiffeners to the spar -
> >
> >Don Eaves
> >RV6 Flown 235 +- Hrs - Currently installing: Garman 155XL GPS, KN53 Nav
and
> >Autopilot.
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Fenstermacher" <dfenstermacher(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RV8 Wing Kit For Sale |
Alan - your email is bouncing. I use earthlink.
I am VERY interested. I am woking on the control surfaces for the tail and
was about to order the wing (takes 6 weeks).
Anyway, give me a call @ 703-878-2042 or email me your phone number and we
can talk.
Dave
> [Original Message]
> From: Alan Ferguson <aferg(at)incoservices.com>
> To:
> Date: 9/26/2004 7:11:52 PM
> Subject: RV-List: RV8 Wing Kit For Sale
>
>
> RV8 pre-punched wing kit for sale. Materials are in the original
> shipment crates. Kit includes the capacitive fuel sender and two
> leading edge landing / taxi lights. Located in the Atlanta area. Also
> have a partially completed RV8 empennage that I will also sell with the
> wing kit. Contact me at e-mail aferg(at)incoservices.com.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mimartin(at)sweetwaterhsa.com" <mimartin(at)sweetwater.com> |
I'm wondering how much others have paid for the KLX-135A GPS COM. I ordered from
Aircraft Spruce & Specialty and was shocked at the price $3048.00. Is this
now the price others are paying? Mickey Martin RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren Hurd <warren(at)ahyup.com> |
| Subject: | Boelube, How to use? |
How does one use Boelube? I have a little stick of the stuff and it
seems hard and crumbly, somewhat like a cross between wax and soap. I
rubbed a drill on it and it seemed like nothing happened. I then
switched to cutting oil. Cutting oil is visible on the tool or bit,
makes me think it is working. How do you know if the Boelube is working?
Warren
Pondering a little stick of Boelube
http://ahyup.com
RV-9A (in many small parts)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BrownTool(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Boelube, How to use? |
In a message dated 9/27/2004 12:23:12 AM Central Daylight Time,
warren(at)ahyup.com writes:
> How does one use Boelube? I have a little stick of the stuff and it
> seems hard and crumbly, somewhat like a cross between wax and soap. I
> rubbed a drill on it and it seemed like nothing happened. I then
> switched to cutting oil. Cutting oil is visible on the tool or bit,
> makes me think it is working. How do you know if the Boelube is working?
>
>
Most people simply "drill" their drill bit into the BoeLube which puts a thin
coating on their drill. It is not necessary to put globs of the stuff on your
drill bit, a small coating works fine. BoeLube is awesome stuff and is used
in every single aircraft factory I have ever visited.
If you are not comfortable using the paste version, BoeLube also makes a
liquid version which comes in a 4oz bottle. (Shameless Plug: you can find it on
our website at - www.browntool.com ).
Happy Drilling,
Michael Brown
Brown Aviation Tool Supply Co.
Oklahoma City, OK
www.browntool.com
1-800-587-3883
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Waltner <swaltner(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Boelube, How to use? |
>> How does one use Boelube? I have a little stick of the stuff and it
>> seems hard and crumbly, somewhat like a cross between wax and soap. I
>> rubbed a drill on it and it seemed like nothing happened. I then
>> switched to cutting oil. Cutting oil is visible on the tool or bit,
>> makes me think it is working. How do you know if the Boelube is
>> working?
>
> Most people simply "drill" their drill bit into the BoeLube which puts
> a thin
> coating on their drill. It is not necessary to put globs of the stuff
> on your
> drill bit, a small coating works fine. BoeLube is awesome stuff and
> is used
> in every single aircraft factory I have ever visited.
>
> If you are not comfortable using the paste version, BoeLube also makes
> a
> liquid version which comes in a 4oz bottle. (Shameless Plug: you can
> find it on
> our website at - www.browntool.com ).
I was shown to get the drill bit hot by drilling into a 2x4 at the very
beginning of the work session. You then simply touch the bit to the
BoeLube, which melts a little bit of it onto the bit. Cutting into .032
sheetmetal (especially with pre-punched holes doesn't keep the bit hot
enough to melt the BoeLube for the next application, so you will need
to redo the 2x4 drilling every time. If you're drilling new holes in
sheetmetal or drilling into aluminum angle, it will likely keep enough
heat for re-application. When doing it like this, you can see a liquid
get sucked up onto the bit from the BoeLube tube. Waiting a few seconds
and it will harden back into a waxy film on the tip of the bit.
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: [RV-8] First Flight |
Joel,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Joel Harding
> To: RV-8(at)yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sunday, September 26, 2004 11:20 PM
> Subject: [RV-8] First Flight
>
>
> On Saturday afternoon at five o clock the parts box was empty, the
> inspection was complete, and there were no reasons left not to fly, so
> I did. After eight years of building, kit number 80004 finally became
> airborne, and what a treat it was.
> Joel Harding (ex builder)
>
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Boelube, How to use? |
In a message dated 9/27/04 1:48:45 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
BrownTool(at)aol.com writes:
> Most people simply "drill" their drill bit into the BoeLube which puts a
> thin
> coating on their drill. It is not necessary to put globs of the stuff on
> your
> drill bit, a small coating works fine. BoeLube is awesome stuff and is used
>
> in every single aircraft factory I have ever visited.
>
> If you are not comfortable using the paste version, BoeLube also makes a
> liquid version which comes in a 4oz bottle.
OR.....stop by your neighborhood bearing supply house and pick up an aerosol
can of Molykote 557 which works equaly well and much easier to apply. A little
spray on the tool whenever you need it. Also, works great on micro
countersink cutters and saw blades.
Dale Ensing
RV6A inspection soon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Five0Gulf(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: EAA Chapter 898 FLY IN Sat Oct 2,2004 @ MJX |
Toms River New Jersey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Five0Gulf(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: EAA Chapter 898 FLY IN Sat Oct 2,2004 @ MJX |
Toms River ,NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Five0Gulf(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: EAA Chapter 898 FLY IN Sat Oct 2,2004 @ MJX |
Toms River, New Jersey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Alternator cooling duct |
Does anybody sell a small flange that can be flush mounted to the front
baffle floor and connected to the black nylon flex tubing for cooling the
alternator?
Or, any suggestions on how to make one?
Dale Ensing
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Alternator cooling duct |
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/ductflanges.php
Not exactly what you asked for, since they only sell 1" and larger, but you
can use 1" SCAT or whatever. Or just make your own flange out of aluminum.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <DWENSING(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List:Alternator cooling duct
>
>
> Does anybody sell a small flange that can be flush mounted to the front
> baffle floor and connected to the black nylon flex tubing for cooling the
> alternator?
> Or, any suggestions on how to make one?
> Dale Ensing
> RV6A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)direcpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Alternator cooling duct |
They sell 5/8" scat tubing but I have never found 5/8" flanges. I turned
one myself on my lathe. I have seen some installations where the flex
tubing is just screwed into the hole. Does not look good (IMHO) but
seems to work.
Gary
DWENSING(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
>Does anybody sell a small flange that can be flush mounted to the front
>baffle floor and connected to the black nylon flex tubing for cooling the
>alternator?
>Or, any suggestions on how to make one?
>Dale Ensing
>RV6A
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Alternator cooling duct |
Dale...
Just rill a hole big enough to take and hole a piece of the black corrugated
wire loom stuff, just like you would for your mag blast tubes... Then use a
small clamp on the alternator bracket to direct and hold the tube...
http://www.rv8a.com/engine/finish116.jpg
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A - Colorado Springs
EAA Tech Counselor
www.vondane.com
www.rv8a.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <DWENSING(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List:Alternator cooling duct
Does anybody sell a small flange that can be flush mounted to the front
baffle floor and connected to the black nylon flex tubing for cooling the
alternator?
Or, any suggestions on how to make one?
Dale Ensing
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Alternator cooling duct |
In a message dated 9/27/04 11:38:00 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
bill(at)vondane.com writes:
> Just rill a hole big enough to take and hole a piece of the black
> corrugated
> wire loom stuff, just like you would for your mag blast tubes...
Hi Bill,
Thanks. Was trying to avoid the air flow disturbance of the plastic loom
sticking up thru the floor of the baffle. Guess I can start out with that and
continue looking for a neat aluminum flange to add later.
Dale
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Alternator cooling duct |
Aircraft Spruce sells the flanges. The down side is they are for 1.0 OD
tubing minimum. 5~6 bucks if I remember correctly.
>
>In a message dated 9/27/04 11:38:00 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
>bill(at)vondane.com writes:
>
>
> > Just rill a hole big enough to take and hole a piece of the black
> > corrugated
> > wire loom stuff, just like you would for your mag blast tubes...
>
>Hi Bill,
>Thanks. Was trying to avoid the air flow disturbance of the plastic loom
>sticking up thru the floor of the baffle. Guess I can start out with that and
>continue looking for a neat aluminum flange to add later.
>Dale
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Alternator cooling duct |
I'm not sure you would get any determinable air flow disturbance... The air
is pressurized in there anyway...
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: <DWENSING(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List:Alternator cooling duct
In a message dated 9/27/04 11:38:00 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
bill(at)vondane.com writes:
> Just rill a hole big enough to take and hole a piece of the black
> corrugated
> wire loom stuff, just like you would for your mag blast tubes...
Hi Bill,
Thanks. Was trying to avoid the air flow disturbance of the plastic loom
sticking up thru the floor of the baffle. Guess I can start out with that
and
continue looking for a neat aluminum flange to add later.
Dale
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
| Subject: | Lift Reserve Indicator (LRI) |
I flew over the mountains to Grand Junction, CO, (GJT) this morning for a
bi-annual transponder check. That went well.
Upon take off to return I rotated by reference to my LRI (my usual practice)
and then cross checked against my air speed indicator. Guess what? No air
speed indication, no VSI, no altimeter either.
Obviously something was left unconnected at the radio shop. I had to quickly
decide if I wanted to land without those instruments at GJT or continue over
the mountains via Monarch Pass, around 11,00 or so.
I decided to use my AnywhereMap's indication of GPS altitude and ground
speed and the LRI for stall safety margin and completed the hour-long
flight.
Entry into the pattern went well, lots of visual clues. On long final I sort
of wished the update rate on GPS altitude was a bit faster, but the LRI kept
me well above stall speed. Landing went very normal.
Moral of the story? I don't know for certain, except it was damm nice to
have the AnywhereMap GPS and the LRI as backup. (Trouble turned out to be a
picnched hose...everything WAS connected.)
FWIW
John at Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator balancing/counter weights |
You know I hate getting older and having too much information in the aging
brain. I went to my notes over the weekend and reviewed them.. I have found
that I balanced the elevators a little NOISE heavy, not tail heavy. Sorry
to one and all for my mis-information. Send your flames
Mike Robertson
>From: Oldsfolks(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Re: Elevator balancing/counter weights
>Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2004 21:45:47 EDT
>
>
>I had read that a positive balance(slightly nose heavy) was preferable on
>elevators. You must also allow for (guestimate if unpainted) the
>difference
>after painting. I had my RV-4 counterweights nose down by 3" or so before
>painting and they were about 1" down after paint. Testing to 235 MPH has
>been done
>with do vibration or flutter.
>
>Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
>A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
>Charleston,Arkansas
>Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
>
>
Get ready for school! Find articles, homework help and more in the Back to
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Elevator balancing/counterweights |
Like I said on an earlier post, I got my brain working as* backwards. I
reviewed my notes and found that it is supposed to be slighlty nose heavy,
not trailing edge heavy.
Sorry,
Mike
>From: Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Elevator balancing/counterweights
>Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2004 22:35:53 -0400
>
>
> >
> >Michey,
> >
> >There used to be an AC with all kinds of generic information but that one
>is
> >long gone. Now almost all info is fond in manufacturer's maintenance
>manuls
> >(IE, Cessna, Piper). What you need to do is to suspend the control
>surface
> >from the hinges, then either add or remove weight from the counterweight
> >until the trailing edge and counterweights are on the same horizontal
>plane.
> > More specifically for the RV's I have found that if the trailing edge
>is
> >slightly heavy the controls seem to respond better and there is less
>chance
> >of control flutter at high speeds. By being slightly heavy I mean the
> >trailing edge 1-2 inches below the horizontal plane of the center of the
> >counter weight leading edge.
> >
>
>Just understand that Van's flutter analysis and flight testing is
>only valid if the elevators are balanced the way he says. Making the
>trailing edge heavier will increase the stick force per g, and reduce
>the tendency for a pilot induced oscillation. But it will increase
>the likelihood of aeroelastic flutter.
>--
>Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
>Ottawa, Canada
>http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Alternator cooling duct |
Dale,
Just did this job a few days ago. I used a 10350-4 ALUM FLANGE 1" bought from Spruce
to which I mated a short length of 1" sceet with a 032-9 Oetiker clamp.
Rick Galati RV-6A N307R "finishing"
Does anybody sell a small flange that can be flush mounted to the front
baffle floor and connected to the black nylon flex tubing for cooling the
alternator?
Or, any suggestions on how to make one?
Dale Ensing
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Elevator balancing/counterweights |
Thanks, all, for the comments and suggestions. In addition
to your advice, I had a chat with Ken at Van's and he said
that if you just put on the weights as shipped, it won't
make much difference one way or the other. He said the
aircraft is not very sensitive to elevator balance. I'm
building an 8, so I'm not sure if his comment is only
valid for the 8, or for all their models.
My elevators are currently slightly nose heavy, and I
suspect that will balance out a bit once they get painted.
I already have the electric trim installed.
Thanks again,
Mickey
>Like I said on an earlier post, I got my brain working as* backwards. I
>reviewed my notes and found that it is supposed to be slighlty nose heavy,
>not trailing edge heavy.
>
>
>> ....
>>
>>Just understand that Van's flutter analysis and flight testing is
>>only valid if the elevators are balanced the way he says. Making the
>>trailing edge heavier will increase the stick force per g, and reduce
>>the tendency for a pilot induced oscillation. But it will increase
>>the likelihood of aeroelastic flutter.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lift Reserve Indicator (LRI) |
All,
This is not directed at you John, obviously you had no problems, but this is
a common problem among the pilots I see giving BFRs. Pilots get real jumped
up when I cover the airspeed indicator. Loss of airspeed should not be a
big deal!
The LRI is a great tool and I have nothing against lots of back ups, (You
should see my panel, lotsa backups) However, in day VMC conditions, anyone
who has any concerns whatsoever about safely flying their airplane without
an airspeed indicator doesn't need a back up, they need some practice.
Cover it up and go practice! With an instructor of a safety pilot if need
be, but go practice!!!
IFR or at night is a little more interesting, I lost the pitot heat while
IMC in a C210 once and lost airspeed, needless to say there was ice on the
wings too. When it came time to shoot the ILS, I took my handheld GPS out of
batterysaver mode (they update about 3 times more often) and I told my pax
to read the GPS ground speed every few seconds. There was nothing to it,
but an LRI would have been a nice addition that day. Even with out the GPS,
it would have been manageable, but I would have been smokin' down the
approach you can bet!
On BFRs I cover the ASI and most decent pilots are within 5 mph of normal
speeds once they quit freaking out.
The purpose of training is to provide a conditioned response to a set of
circumstances with a positive outcome. This provides certainty of a
positive outcome and that is really important, because once you lose
certainty in a successful outcome, the outcome becomes certain and that is
certainly not good!
FWIW, This theory applies to business, and marriage as well as aviation.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
----- Original Message -----
From: "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com>
Subject: RV-List: Lift Reserve Indicator (LRI)
Snip
>
> Entry into the pattern went well, lots of visual clues. On long final I
sort
> of wished the update rate on GPS altitude was a bit faster, but the LRI
kept
> me well above stall speed. Landing went very normal.
>
> Moral of the story? I don't know for certain, except it was damm nice to
> have the AnywhereMap GPS and the LRI as backup. (Trouble turned out to be
a
> picnched hose...everything WAS connected.)
>
> FWIW
>
> John at Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Catto props...3 vs 2 blade |
List:
I am about to make a decision on a prop for my 150 hp -6A. I have read all I could
in the archives regarding the use of a 3 blade Catto prop, and I also talked
with as many RV pilots that I could who were using this prop while at OSH
this past summer.
I have not seen or heard any bad comments on the prop, and I am wondering if all
who are using it still would recommend it.
Also, what are the advantages/disadvantages of using a 3 blade vs a two blade?
Is the 3 blade that much smoother and quieter than a 2 blade?
I am not looking for maximum speed or climb in my prop. I am a flat-lander (Wisconsin)
and am just looking for a good all-around prop. Smooth and quiet are
up there on the list for me.
Sure would like to hear from those in the know.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P (reserved)
About to close up the top forward skin
Peshtigo, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Cook" <Dugcook(at)cox.net> |
With all the messages on props, I just read an interesting article from the Calif.
Pilots Assoc. newsletter relating to prop noise.
It states that as prop tip speeds approaches transonic range (625mph (736mph mach
1)) the noise level takes a tremendous jump.
For our 72" props this equates to 2900rpm for the onset of transonic prop speeds.
So I think any RV prop is going to be relatively quiet. For comparison, my
Cessna has a prop speed of 610mph at 2500rpm cruise, where an RV would have
a prop speed of 535mph at that rpm.
Doug (RV-7a in progress)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Sneed <n242ds(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | CHT's at altitude |
I have an RV-6 0-360 (9:1 pistons) with the airflow performance FI
system. I have one mag and the bottom plugs are running on a Jeff Rose
electronic ignition. I normally cruise in the 4,500-6,500 foot range.
During the summer months when the OAT is in the 75-85 degree range my
CHT's run about 390-410 at cruise at peak EGT. 60 degrees rich of peak
I may see a 10 degree CHT drop. Lean of peak operation gets CHT's down
to 370-385. I think these numbers are pretty normal.
My question is, when I try to cruise at 9,500 or above my CHT's are 450
at peak and 430 at 60 degrees rich. Lean of peak operation still has
CHT's over 400. My theory is that since the air is thinner at 9,500 and
above it has less cooling effect. I would think the decrease in OAT
would make up for the thinner air but it does not. I would really like
to take advantage of better tailwinds at altitude plus I have an O2
system I have never used.
I recently spent a bunch of money fixing a warped exhaust valve, and
everything I have read says the best way to not have valve problems is
to keep CHT's low.
Engine has 900 hours since new and 375 since a top overhaul. Baffles
have been replaced, I opened the bottom of the cowl some and I feel
like the cowl is sealed very well. I have also inspected my cooling
fins, they appear fine with no flashing. Oil temps run 180 in cruise.
Any input on this issue would be great.
Jason Sneed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Catto props...3 vs 2 blade |
Jeff;
I have a 150 hp RV-6A and use the Sensenich 70CM prop sold through Van's
(the max 2600 rpm one). I do not have a lot of other RV-6 experience to
compare it to but am pleased with the noise, vibration and general
smoothness level - IOW, I consider them at the low end of other light
aircraft I have flown/flown in. I do run a (wood) Pacesetter 200 on my RV-3
and it is a lot rougher.
Apart from the 2 vs 3 blade issue, I feel the mass and stiffness of the prop
are what makes for a lot smoother operation. Performance is good too, BTW.
I am quite satisfied with my 0-320, Sensenich fixed pitch set-up.
Jim Oke
RV-6A
Wpg, MB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: Catto props...3 vs 2 blade
>
> List:
>
> I am about to make a decision on a prop for my 150 hp -6A. I have read
> all I could in the archives regarding the use of a 3 blade Catto prop, and
> I also talked with as many RV pilots that I could who were using this prop
> while at OSH this past summer.
>
> I have not seen or heard any bad comments on the prop, and I am wondering
> if all who are using it still would recommend it.
>
> Also, what are the advantages/disadvantages of using a 3 blade vs a two
> blade? Is the 3 blade that much smoother and quieter than a 2 blade?
>
> I am not looking for maximum speed or climb in my prop. I am a
> flat-lander (Wisconsin) and am just looking for a good all-around prop.
> Smooth and quiet are up there on the list for me.
>
> Sure would like to hear from those in the know.
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Jeff Orear
> RV6A N782P (reserved)
> About to close up the top forward skin
> Peshtigo, WI
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: CHT's at altitude |
Jason,
While the temps are (barely) within what Lycoming allows, I think they are
about 50 degrees higher than mine are. I have an IO-360-C1E6 with -A!A sump.
This is an angle valve head so it may not be an apples and apples comparison.
My suggestion would be to retard the timing to 25 degrees to see if the
advanced timing of the electronic ignition is raising the CHTs. This doesn't make
perfect sense to me, but something is making your CHTs higher than normal.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
N766DH (Flying -- 55 hours since July 7, 2004)
In a message dated 9/27/04 9:38:27 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
n242ds(at)cox.net writes:
>
>
> I have an RV-6 0-360 (9:1 pistons) with the airflow performance FI
> system. I have one mag and the bottom plugs are running on a Jeff Rose
> electronic ignition. I normally cruise in the 4,500-6,500 foot range.
> During the summer months when the OAT is in the 75-85 degree range my
> CHT's run about 390-410 at cruise at peak EGT. 60 degrees rich of peak
> I may see a 10 degree CHT drop. Lean of peak operation gets CHT's down
> to 370-385. I think these numbers are pretty normal.
>
> My question is, when I try to cruise at 9,500 or above my CHT's are 450
> at peak and 430 at 60 degrees rich. Lean of peak operation still has
> CHT's over 400. My theory is that since the air is thinner at 9,500 and
> above it has less cooling effect. I would think the decrease in OAT
> would make up for the thinner air but it does not. I would really like
> to take advantage of better tailwinds at altitude plus I have an O2
> system I have never used.
>
> I recently spent a bunch of money fixing a warped exhaust valve, and
> everything I have read says the best way to not have valve problems is
> to keep CHT's low.
>
> Engine has 900 hours since new and 375 since a top overhaul. Baffles
> have been replaced, I opened the bottom of the cowl some and I feel
> like the cowl is sealed very well. I have also inspected my cooling
> fins, they appear fine with no flashing. Oil temps run 180 in cruise.
> Any input on this issue would be great.
>
>
> Jason Sneed
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Please change my address to avheath(at)sbcglobal.net
Please let me know that you received this note.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: engine oil leak |
In a message dated 9/21/04 7:53:31 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
Rquinn1(at)aol.com writes:
>
> Andy, We also had an oil leak that, even with the help of the experts, we
> could not locate. Then one of the best A&Ps came over and looked and said
> that
> I should cut my oil vent hose on such an angle that would give the case a
> slight vacuum. I did and the leak was cured.
> Rollie &Rod
> RV6A with about 86 hours (and a clean cowl)
>
Along these lines -- when the rings seat (if the engine is new or freshly
overhauled) the blowby will lessen, which will lower the crankcase pressure, and
the leak may cure itself.
I have one of these kind of leaks too. It seems to come from the left front
of the engine in the area of the prop governor. There is a lot of stuff in
the way which keeps me from seeing that area of the case. Anyway, I still
intend to take Stein's excellent advice to try to find it, but it doesn't seem
to
be as bad as it was early on.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
N766DH (Flying -- 55 hours since 7/7/04)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
| Subject: | Nose Wheel Fork Bolt Holes |
I just assembled my nose wheel, no problems. I slid the wheel with the
big spacers into the nose fork and slid the bolt in with the wheel
centered, one side aligned with the bolt hole the hole on the other side
is at least a half hole off. If I try to force the bolt in the wheel
cocks to one side and the spacers are not flat on each side on the fork,
they are cocked also. Is this normal and I need to do something to make
it work. It appears to me that the holes are not aligned properly and
the part needs to be replaced.
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Alternator cooling duct |
In a message dated 9/27/2004 8:31:38 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
zilik(at)direcpc.com writes:
They sell 5/8" scat tubing but I have never found 5/8" flanges. I turned
one myself on my lathe.
===================================
Aha! A market looking for a product. Who will be the new entrepreneur that
picks up this baton and runs with it?
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 719 hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "james frierson" <tn3639(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | prop bolt torque |
I have a wooden prop and was checking the torque. I set my torque wrench to
the desired setting of 25 ft lb and check the bolts. They all were =>25 ft
lbs as none of them moved when checked. My question is do you back off the
bolts and then retorque or is the method I used sufficient?
Scott Frierson
N162RV
RV6A Flying 26hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: CHT's at altitude |
I have the same set up as you do and usually run 360 CHT at those altitudes
mentioned. Where are your temp probes in the head or under the spark plugs.
Its also a good idea to stay away from peak EGT over about 60% power. I am
at peak EGT for only 5~10 seconds not long enough for the heads to get as
warm as you mentioned. What power settings are you running at? Have you
backed the timing off 5 degrees due to the higher compression? Timing makes
a big difference on CHTS.
As far as cooling goes at altitude yes you have less air, but you are also
going faster because there is less resistance which should make up for less
air. Coming back from the Reno air races I went up to 15.5 to use a tail
wind and the head temps were about 360F at 55% power and 50 degrees LOP.
>
>I have an RV-6 0-360 (9:1 pistons) with the airflow performance FI
>system. I have one mag and the bottom plugs are running on a Jeff Rose
>electronic ignition. I normally cruise in the 4,500-6,500 foot range.
>During the summer months when the OAT is in the 75-85 degree range my
>CHT's run about 390-410 at cruise at peak EGT. 60 degrees rich of peak
>I may see a 10 degree CHT drop. Lean of peak operation gets CHT's down
>to 370-385. I think these numbers are pretty normal.
>
>My question is, when I try to cruise at 9,500 or above my CHT's are 450
>at peak and 430 at 60 degrees rich. Lean of peak operation still has
>CHT's over 400. My theory is that since the air is thinner at 9,500 and
>above it has less cooling effect. I would think the decrease in OAT
>would make up for the thinner air but it does not. I would really like
>to take advantage of better tailwinds at altitude plus I have an O2
>system I have never used.
>
>I recently spent a bunch of money fixing a warped exhaust valve, and
>everything I have read says the best way to not have valve problems is
>to keep CHT's low.
>
>Engine has 900 hours since new and 375 since a top overhaul. Baffles
>have been replaced, I opened the bottom of the cowl some and I feel
>like the cowl is sealed very well. I have also inspected my cooling
>fins, they appear fine with no flashing. Oil temps run 180 in cruise.
>Any input on this issue would be great.
>
>
>Jason Sneed
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DonEavesRV6" <DonEavesRV6(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: prop bolt torque |
Scott:
If you trust your torque wrench is calibrated correctly - "all were =>25 ft
"
Back each off each bolt - retorqueing to proper torque - in an alternating
pattern - until you have checked 2 times - until all are @ 25 ft lbs.
Remember wood props require retorqueing after your 1 operation and at
increasing intervals of operation until you notice little or no loosing -
Then you will still need to check @ least every condition inspection.
Some experienced wood prop operators may give you a better condition check
time frame that works for them -
Don Eaves
RV6 Flying 235+
----- Original Message -----
From: "james frierson" <tn3639(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: prop bolt torque
>
> I have a wooden prop and was checking the torque. I set my torque wrench
> to
> the desired setting of 25 ft lb and check the bolts. They all were =>25 ft
> lbs as none of them moved when checked. My question is do you back off the
> bolts and then retorque or is the method I used sufficient?
>
> Scott Frierson
> N162RV
> RV6A Flying 26hrs
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Nose Wheel Fork Bolt Holes |
In a message dated 9/27/04 10:54:46 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
bhester(at)hopkinsville.net writes:
>
> I just assembled my nose wheel, no problems. I slid the wheel with the
> big spacers into the nose fork and slid the bolt in with the wheel
> centered, one side aligned with the bolt hole the hole on the other side
> is at least a half hole off. If I try to force the bolt in the wheel
> cocks to one side and the spacers are not flat on each side on the fork,
> they are cocked also. Is this normal and I need to do something to make
> it work. It appears to me that the holes are not aligned properly and
> the part needs to be replaced.
>
> --
> Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
>
>
This one should go back to Vans. Mine fit very well.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
N766DH (Flying since 7/7/04 -- 55 hours now)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DonEavesRV6" <DonEavesRV6(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder - RV6 & Original RV7 Compatability |
1st let me thank all who have offered the Original Rudder off there RV7 - Or may
want to -
It is not compatible with the RV6 -
From a call to Vans and Van's Service Bulletin 02-6-1:
The original RV7 rudder will not work on a RV6 without changing to the RV7 Vertical
stabilizer - Both are larger than the 6 -
The current RV7 Rudder is a RV9 Rudder with the RV7 Sttabilizer
Good news I can still get the parts I need to build a new RV6 rudder if I cannot
find one out there on the list -
Thanks
Don Eaves
RV6 Flying 235+ Hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | oil leak discovered |
I have discovered the source of most of my oil leaks. It was a 5 minute fix
that will now be a routine part of my annual.
My crankcase breather port ties into a flexible hose which then clamps onto
a 10" stainless tube which is welded directly into the left side exhaust
pipe. This setup injects blowby into the hot exhaust causing most of it to
burn or atomize and much less of it to coat the belly of my clean airplane.
What has happened over the years is that sludge has built up and solidified
at the juncture of the breather tube and exhaust causing a blockage, thus
pressurizing the case, and pushing oil out of almost every possible seam.
Opening up the blockage immediately cured about 3/4 of the leaks. Replacing
the quick drain O-rings and retorquing the valve covers got rid of much of
the rest.
So much for fretting cases and $10,000 overhauls. ; )
Andy
----- Original Message -----
From: <Hopperdhh(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: engine oil leak
>
> In a message dated 9/21/04 7:53:31 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
> Rquinn1(at)aol.com writes:
>
> >
> > Andy, We also had an oil leak that, even with the help of the experts,
we
> > could not locate. Then one of the best A&Ps came over and looked and
said
> > that
> > I should cut my oil vent hose on such an angle that would give the case
a
> > slight vacuum. I did and the leak was cured.
> > Rollie &Rod
> > RV6A with about 86 hours (and a clean cowl)
> >
>
> Along these lines -- when the rings seat (if the engine is new or freshly
> overhauled) the blowby will lessen, which will lower the crankcase
pressure, and
> the leak may cure itself.
>
> I have one of these kind of leaks too. It seems to come from the left
front
> of the engine in the area of the prop governor. There is a lot of stuff
in
> the way which keeps me from seeing that area of the case. Anyway, I still
> intend to take Stein's excellent advice to try to find it, but it doesn't
seem to
> be as bad as it was early on.
>
> Dan Hopper
> RV-7A
> N766DH (Flying -- 55 hours since 7/7/04)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob J <rocketbob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: CHT's at altitude |
Jason, that is way too hot. I advise that you get a digital voltmeter
and connect it to the advance output on the ignition, then go fly with
it to see how many degrees of advance there is at altitude. IIRC
10mV/degree advance. So .01V would be 1 degree advance, .25V would be
25 degrees advance, etc. It could be the MAP sensor is faulty and
your timing is advancing too far BTDC with altitude. That could
easily cause high temperatures.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying F1 qb under const.
> >My question is, when I try to cruise at 9,500 or above my CHT's are 450
> >at peak and 430 at 60 degrees rich. Lean of peak operation still has
> >CHT's over 400. My theory is that since the air is thinner at 9,500 and
> >above it has less cooling effect. I would think the decrease in OAT
> >would make up for the thinner air but it does not. I would really like
> >to take advantage of better tailwinds at altitude plus I have an O2
> >system I have never used.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bobby Hester" <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose Wheel Fork Bolt Holes |
CLR 1.1.4322)
Thanks for the reply, after reading it, I called Vans and they said that does happen
sometimes. I have to send it back with a note that the holes are misalined
and they'll send me a new one.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Fiveonepw(at)aol.com
> To: bhester(at)hopkinsville.net
> Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 09:41 (CDT)
> Subject: RV-List: Nose Wheel Fork Bolt Holes
>
>
>
> Hi Bobby- I met you at the Lebanon fly-in. I'd sure take this up with Vans,
> particularly if the bottom of the two side plates are parallel- either the
> holes are mis-drilled, the side plates are not welded in the correct postion
> or
> the thing somehow got bent! Mine was perfectly straight.
>
> Mark Phillips, Columbia TN, -6A N51PW
>
>
-------
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
RV7A web site: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
| Subject: | reply to various stuff |
Use the black wire conduit hose, pop through a tight hole, then take a hot
iron and flatten the part sticking up into a flange. Practice this before
attempting on your baffle.
Lost ASI. One good reason for manual pitch trim is the marks I have on the
trim cable control shaft. I can set this to a specific spot and the plane
will fly within one or two knots of a known airspeed for any given mark.
This operates independantly of all other systems, and in fact I can do it by
feel with my eyes closed. To become confident in this one must really go out
and practice flying slow speed with trim only, using throttle only for
vertical speed management, and keeping your hand off the stick except for
turbulence corrections.
RE high CHTs, suggest testing temps on one mag to establish one mag
baseline, then set mag to 20-23Deg BTDC and test again on the one mag, then,
if temps are lower, turn on the other system and see if temps climb. This
will verify that timing is the cause (or at least a solution), based upon
your engine's/airframe's capacity to cool.
If this proves true I believe you can back the suggested timing values for
the Rose system back a few degrees just like you would a mag and it won't
know the difference. Also, expect EGTs to climb slightly, and I would be
suprised if you are able to tell the difference in max power output.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | re: Flap useage for short field takeoff |
Frank,
The reason it isn't mentioned much is because even with poor technique, an
RV like yours can get off the ground in less than 700 ft easily.
I am not an exceptional pilot, but I am proficient. I fly my RV on final at
70 mph. I think thats pretty good. But it still takes me much farther to
land than to take off.
1/2 fuel, alone, with 1/2 flaps, I am off in a shade over 300 ft.
My plane has a climb prop, that helps, but even still you will have a lot
more margin on takeoff than on landing.
as an aside, I flew into a 1600 ft grass strip (wheel pants removed) this
weekend. It was a total non-event.
Don Mei
RV-4
O-320
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | re: Lift Reserve Indicator (LRI) |
John,
It is good to hear that everything worked out, but let me play devil's
advocate. I'd suggest that you should aim for a level of proficiency where
NONE of those items are necessary for a safe comfortable flying experience.
(in good VFR conditions).
Every few months or so, I will practice flying with no ASI, VSI, Altimeter.
I practice stalls before attempting to refresh my memory as to the pitch
attitude, wind noise, etc.
In the end its always a non event. Our gadgets and toys are nice and can
contribute greatly to safety, but they are not a substitute for proficiency
in pure seat of the pants flying.
Again, this is not a criticism in any way. You had those other tools at
your disposal, so you used them. It just reminded me that we should stay
current, and proficient using even fewer tools than you had at your
disposal.
Don Mei
p.s. If it hasn't already been said already, don't use the GPS Groundspeed
indicator in the pattern. If there is any wind, it can get you in trouble.
You're better off going by sound and pitch.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: >Re: oil leak discovered |
My crankcase vent line goes to about 1/8" from the exhaust pipe and points at
the pipe. This burns the oil spray without the welded-in tube ( and NO plug
in the tube )
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: >Re: prop bolt torque |
I found that it takes about 5 ft/lbs to turn my 7/16" bolts in the prop hub
(bolts not into the flange). I then add this 5 ft/lbs to the 25 and torque to
30.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: >Re: oil leak discovered |
I would recommend a whistle hole in your vent line, regardless of type
of termination. This gives you insurance against blockage, and will
also tell you end is blocked, by slobbering for you.
Denis
On Sep 28, 2004, at 2:10 PM, Oldsfolks(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> My crankcase vent line goes to about 1/8" from the exhaust pipe and
> points at
> the pipe. This burns the oil spray without the welded-in tube ( and
> NO plug
> in the tube )
>
>
> Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
> A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
> Charleston,Arkansas
> Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark/Micki Phillips" <mphill(at)gcctv.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Catto props...3 vs 2 blade |
Jeff, Have you received any comments about the cato props? Im almost to the
stage I need to order the prop.A friend of mine has one but hasnt installed
it. Sure is pretty thou.
Mark Phillips
Williamsville,ILlinois
RV-6 Finishing
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: Catto props...3 vs 2 blade
>
> List:
>
> I am about to make a decision on a prop for my 150 hp -6A. I have read
> all I could in the archives regarding the use of a 3 blade Catto prop, and
> I also talked with as many RV pilots that I could who were using this prop
> while at OSH this past summer.
>
> I have not seen or heard any bad comments on the prop, and I am wondering
> if all who are using it still would recommend it.
>
> Also, what are the advantages/disadvantages of using a 3 blade vs a two
> blade? Is the 3 blade that much smoother and quieter than a 2 blade?
>
> I am not looking for maximum speed or climb in my prop. I am a
> flat-lander (Wisconsin) and am just looking for a good all-around prop.
> Smooth and quiet are up there on the list for me.
>
> Sure would like to hear from those in the know.
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Jeff Orear
> RV6A N782P (reserved)
> About to close up the top forward skin
> Peshtigo, WI
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: reply to various stuff |
>Lost ASI. One good reason for manual pitch trim is the marks I have on the
>trim cable control shaft. I can set this to a specific spot and the plane
>will fly within one or two knots of a known airspeed for any given mark.
>This operates independantly of all other systems, and in fact I can do it by
>feel with my eyes closed. To become confident in this one must really go out
>and practice flying slow speed with trim only, using throttle only for
>vertical speed management, and keeping your hand off the stick except for
>turbulence corrections.
Try this with a bunch of weight in the baggage compartment some day
and you'll see a big change in the airspeed vs trim setting
relationship. You can't guarantee how much weight you'll have in the
baggage compartment if the ASI ever fails, so it is worth doing the
practice with various loadings so you will be ready for whatever
happens.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas A. Fischer" <dfischer(at)iserv.net> |
"RV Matronics List"
| Subject: | Windshield Frame |
on mail5
I visited a local builder who had fabricated an aluminum panel at the base of the
windshield and along the canopy frame on both an RV-6A and -7A. It looked
very nice and neat and he said he did it because he didn't like fiberglass (I
understand that!). It was screwed in place to both the cowl and the screen and
sealed with silicone. Has anybody else done this? I'm considering doing this
because of the neat appearance and also I think replacing a cracked screen
would be infinitely easier. Any thoughts out there in RV Land?
Doug Fischer
90706 Wings
Jenison, MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "H.Ivan Haecker" <baremetl(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: prop bolt torque |
I check the torque about once a month. Sooner if the plane spent any length
of time in a very low humidity environment. I don't loosen the nuts to check
the torque. If they don't move when the wrench indicates 20lbs. then I leave
them alone. It is rare that they move unless I have had the prop off
recently. This is on a -4 with an O-320 and a Sterba prop with over 1000
hrs. in S. Cen. TX. Works for me in my circumstances.
Also I might add that my "wrench" is a cheap fish weighing scale that I
attach to the box end of a long combination wrench. The open end is placed
on the nuts. That way I don't have to take the top cowl off. The torque is
read in "fish pounds". I calibrate it with a 20lb. weight.
Ivan Haecker
----- Original Message -----
From: "james frierson" <tn3639(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: prop bolt torque
>
> I have a wooden prop and was checking the torque. I set my torque wrench
to
> the desired setting of 25 ft lb and check the bolts. They all were =>25 ft
> lbs as none of them moved when checked. My question is do you back off the
> bolts and then retorque or is the method I used sufficient?
>
> Scott Frierson
> N162RV
> RV6A Flying 26hrs
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rich Crosley" <dirtrider(at)qnet.com> |
| Subject: | RV Jacks at Harbor Freight |
Harbor Freight has a 24" hydraulic jack that extends to 44". It is
currently on sale for $40.00 regularly $60.00. The ad actually says "Not
for Aircraft use" so it must be perfect for jacking up RV's. It has a
5/8" inch hole in the piston and a fitting on the base. I removed the base
fitting which gave the jack a flat base and drilled four holes in the
corners and bolted on a larger steel plate to make it more stable. The top
of the piston can be fitted with all sorts of adapters of your own design.
I have an RV8 so used a 5/8" bolt and a couple pieces of angle iron to make
a platform. It works perfect at the top of the gear leg between the attach
bolts. You could also make a fitting to jack at the tie down point. I
don't personally like jacking there but a lot of guys do it. Anyway if you
need a jack check it out.
Rich Crosley
RV8, painting
Palmdale, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Lein <pj115(at)journey.com> |
| Subject: | Best way to sell an RV these days |
Hello all,
After much soul-searching and hand-wringing, I've decided to sell my
RV-6A. Since I have been off the RV list and pretty much out of touch
since the construction phase was over, I need to return for advice from
my fellow builders.
How can I best get up to speed with resale prices on RVs? In looking at
a few online ads in Trade-A-Plane, it appears they are selling for more
than they were just a few years ago. Is an ad in Trade-A-Plane still
considered the best "bang for the buck" in reaching the wide number of
potential buyers or is selling through the Internet, like
Barnstormers.com, a better way now?
I'm located in Mid-Michigan, but of course since the airplane is
finished it could easily be flown cross-country by any buyer. Any
up-to-date advice or insight would be appreciated.
Cheers, Paul
Paul Lein
1555 South Brinton Road
Mt. Pleasant, MI 48858-9628
Tel. 989 644-2451
Fax 989 644-6098
pj115(at)journey.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruno <rv4(at)videotron.ca> |
| Subject: | 2 VS 3 BLADES CATTO |
Hello All
For all interested, here's my 2 cents on the issue.
I went from a Warnke wood prop ( Good prop by the way) to a 3
Bladded Catto Prop and I did not regret it ever. The smoothest and extra
ground clearance ( 64 X 70 ) were plus in the decision to go this way.
Not to mention the great look and good comments on how beautiful it looks
whenever I go to a Fly-In.
It's built very solid. I flew thru moderate rain at 120 Knots
indicated and did not even shipped the paint off the tips. I wouldn't try
that with a wood prop.
Craig Catto was also very nice to do business with.
E-mail me direct if you would like pictures of my RV-4's
installation.
Cheers
Bruno Dionne
rv4(at)videotron.ca
C-GDBH RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick Wildman" <dick(at)rclabs.com> |
Can anyone point me to a diagram which will show how to connect side by side (RV6-A)
dual breaks using the Aircraft Spruce A600 reservoirs.
Thanks. dick(at)rclabs.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kosta Lewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Wood Prop torque timing and methods and other secretes |
If you have a metal prop, you can ignore this post.
>I have a wooden prop and was checking the torque. I set my torque
wrench to
>the desired setting of 25 ft lb and check the bolts. They all were =>25
ft
>lbs as none of them moved when checked. My question is do you back off
the
>bolts and then retorque or is the method I used sufficient?
How often do you change your oil? The cowl is off, the bolts are
exposed; good time to check the torque. SO: about every 25 hours or so.
If you don't fly more than 50 hours a year or more, check them every
three months. Or if it has sat around all winter or other down time,
check it before you take your next flight.
Wood props absorb and lose moisture; they swell and contract. Metal
props, of course, don't do that. SO: if you are checking the torque by
just nudging up to the 25 foot-pounds, you know the torque is at least
that. But what if the prop has swollen and the bolts are now at 35
foot-pounds? Back them off, come up to the proper torque. That way you
know all of the bolts are at 25 pounds, not 23, 37 ,31, 28 etc.
Other care and feeding: keep your prop clean. Bugs all over the prop
looks bad and MAY be eating into the finish of the props. Who knows
(besides spiders, that is) what is in bugs. What to clan it with after
each flight: water. Avoid harsh cleaners. Once every few weeks, clean it
really well with something like Dawn dish soap, rinse it well, dry it
and rub a coat of carnauba wax on it. Helps protect the finish and makes
the bugs WAY easier to remove.
You may notice the trailing edge is actually looking worse than the
leading edge if it has been exposed to moisture (rain at OSH) at all.
The finish may be a little thin back there and the tell-tail sign is a
little lightening of the color of the wood, like you would expect if the
wood was getting wet. Because it maybe has. Clean off the above
mentioned wax and put three or four coats of exterior spar varnish
lightly on the trailing edge with a Q-tip, letting each coat dry before
the next. If the trailing edge is DOWN, it won't run all over the rest
of your prop. You shouldn't be putting it on that thick anyway; just on
the trailing edge and just enough to reseal it.
A bare hand run along the leading edge-trailing edge, front-back of both
blades of your wood prop and a visual look should be, of course, a part
of every preflight. If the finish is getting to feel rough, intervene
before the structure is affected. You may need to send it in to be
refinished. Or, if it is too late, shop for a new prop.
I LOVE my Bernie Warnke Almost Constant Speed prop that is now almost 7
years and over 800 hours old and still looks brand new. Just like
anything else: take care of it, it will take care of you. And that is a
good thing.
IMHO, of course. YMMV.............
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Best way to sell an RV these days |
>
>After much soul-searching and hand-wringing, I've decided to sell my
>RV-6A. Since I have been off the RV list and pretty much out of touch
>since the construction phase was over, I need to return for advice from
>my fellow builders.
>
>How can I best get up to speed with resale prices on RVs? In looking at
>a few online ads in Trade-A-Plane, it appears they are selling for more
>than they were just a few years ago. Is an ad in Trade-A-Plane still
>considered the best "bang for the buck" in reaching the wide number of
>potential buyers or is selling through the Internet, like
>Barnstormers.com, a better way now?
>
>I'm located in Mid-Michigan, but of course since the airplane is
>finished it could easily be flown cross-country by any buyer. Any
>up-to-date advice or insight would be appreciated.
>Cheers, Paul
>
>Paul Lein
Paul,
List it on Doug Reeve's site....vansairforce.net. Huge amount of exposure
to the RV community there. I'm selling my RV8 to a local buyer (if he can
fit in the plane at 6'4"), but if that falls through, I will likely go this
route. Also try posting pics/specs on local FBO bulletin boards.
Barnstormers.com is another popular venue.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Which GPS should I buy |
Hi listers,
I don't want to start an argument, but I need some advice
on which GPS to buy. I've had the plane flying since last
November and I want to buy a GPS real soon!
I designed my panel thinking I would put in a HP iPAQ
running Anywhere Map. Since then, I've watched some
nice GPS come out like the Garmin 296 (won't fit), the
Lawrence 2000C (I was really interested in this but it
won't fit either), and the Garmin 96C. The 96C will
fit but it has a pretty small screen. All things considered,
I think I'm going with Anywhere Map.
This brings up the question of which PDA. Control Vision
recommends two different iPAQs, but I'm intrigued by the
Dell Axim X30. The screen is a bit smaller (3.5" vs 3.8"
diagonal), but the speed is quite a bit higher. Control
Vision sells a package for the Axim which includes a
Compact Flash mount GPS, some cables, and the
Anywhere Map software. However, the X30 doesn't
have a CF slot and I really don't like the idea of a flash
card mount GPS anyway given I want to mount the PDA
under my Dynon. Does anyone know what my options
are for a GPS with the X30? Is anyone using an Axim
with Anywhere Map? If so, how do you like it?
Thanks in advance,
Doug Medema
RV-6A N276DM
Hi listers,
I don't want to start an argument, but I need some advice
on which GPS to buy. I've had the plane flying since last
November and I want to buy a GPS real soon!
I designed my panel thinking I would put in a HP iPAQ
running Anywhere Map. Since then, I've watched some
nice GPS come out like the Garmin 296 (won't fit), the
Lawrence 2000C (I was really interested in this but it
won't fit either), and the Garmin 96C. The 96C will
fit but it has a pretty small screen. All things considered,
I think I'm going with Anywhere Map.
This brings up the question of which PDA. Control Vision
recommends two different iPAQs, but I'm intrigued by the
Dell Axim X30. The screen is a bit smaller (3.5" vs 3.8"
diagonal), but the speed is quite a bit higher. Control
Vision sells a package for the Axim which includesa
Compact Flash mount GPS, some cables, and the
Anywhere Map software. However, the X30 doesn't
have a CF slot andI really don't like the idea of a flash
card mount GPS anyway given I want to mount the PDA
under my Dynon. Does anyone know what my options
are for a GPS with the X30? Is anyone using an Axim
with Anywhere Map? If so, how do you like it?
Thanks in advance,
Doug Medema
RV-6A N276DM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | On board WX was, Which GPS should I buy |
Doug,
On board WX may be a factor to consider in your purchase. I did a demo on
WX worx weather for an article for IFR magazine. This is a big deal! It is
real, it works, and in a few years it will be nearly as common as GPS and
everybit as useful.
I went to OSH to buy a system to display WX weather. I came home confused.
After that, I tried an Ipaq that belonged to a friend, with anywhere map and
WX Worx weather. I thought it would be great in the RV, but I was very
disappointed. the screen was hard to read, I don't think a mounted Ipaq
would work, because I had to tilt it to deal with glare.
The anywheremap software may work ok, but when you put the wx on the map, it
overloads the processor.
I tried a fujitsu p-600 with an ADR screen upgrade, and it is really cool,
but it is a $4000 600mhz out of date tablet pc.
Being true to my Dutch heritage, I just bought a fujitsu p600f on ebay for
$600 to display WX worx. I made a little box with the reciever, USB hub to
split the GPS/wx data, the power supply for the tablet pc.
The 600F has a transflective display. if you move it around, it is always
readable, the processor is slow but acceptable, the WXworx software works
really well, but it seems to be a processor hog. The recommend a 1gig
machine and the fujitsu is 600mhz.
The WX worx software with a GPS doesn't replace a handheld GPS, it just
tells you speed and heading and that is all. Other companies have and are
creating software to run on the PC platform, and I may upgrade, but I will
still have a battery powered handheld GPS onboard anytime I am IFR. ( I
just bought a lowrance airmap 500 and I love it!) I have flown with the 196
and 296 and they are both great units, I like the small size of the 500 and
the fact that it runs over 10hrs on 2 AA bats.
I have flown 3 trips with the fujistu, and I am really happy with it. It is
like having the ADDS weather site in your cockpit. One thing about it, an
autopilot would be almost mandatory, because it captivates alot of
attention, but it is GREAT information!
Tailwinds
Doug Rozendaal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Which GPS should I buy |
Doug,
If you decide to go with a hand-held GPS, don't forget to have a look at the
new $700 Garmin 96C. The current issue of Aviation Consumer reviews it and
the similar monochrome $500 96 quite favorably.
Terry
Hi listers,
I don't want to start an argument, but I need some advice
on which GPS to buy. I've had the plane flying since last
November and I want to buy a GPS real soon!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Danielson" <Jdaniel343(at)bresnan.net> |
| Subject: | Best way to sell an RV these days |
Try Barnstormers.com
John Danielson
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Lein
Subject: RV-List: Best way to sell an RV these days
Hello all,
After much soul-searching and hand-wringing, I've decided to sell my
RV-6A. Since I have been off the RV list and pretty much out of touch
since the construction phase was over, I need to return for advice from
my fellow builders.
How can I best get up to speed with resale prices on RVs? In looking at
a few online ads in Trade-A-Plane, it appears they are selling for more
than they were just a few years ago. Is an ad in Trade-A-Plane still
considered the best "bang for the buck" in reaching the wide number of
potential buyers or is selling through the Internet, like
Barnstormers.com, a better way now?
I'm located in Mid-Michigan, but of course since the airplane is
finished it could easily be flown cross-country by any buyer. Any
up-to-date advice or insight would be appreciated.
Cheers, Paul
Paul Lein
1555 South Brinton Road
Mt. Pleasant, MI 48858-9628
Tel. 989 644-2451
Fax 989 644-6098
pj115(at)journey.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LFswmbkrn(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Best way to sell an RV these days |
Paul,
Can you send me info on your RV-6A...I am lookin g to potentially buy.
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: io-360 angle valve 60 amp alternator pulley size? |
I mean alternator belt...not the pulley!
In a message dated 9/29/2004 9:09:32 PM Eastern Standard Time,
RV8ter(at)aol.com writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter(at)aol.com
What brand name and size pulley are folks using with the io-360 angle
vvalve
engine and 60 amp alternator? Anything here to look out for when buying
car
store brands, so to speak?
thanks,
lucky
do not archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Windshield Frame |
I did it for my -6 after reading about it in an RVator magazine.
Was relatively easy to do and turned out great. Then I did the upper piece
in aluminum as well, with similar results.
Scott in Vancouver
150 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "Douglas A. Fischer" <dfischer(at)iserv.net>
Subject: RV-List: Windshield Frame
>
> I visited a local builder who had fabricated an aluminum panel at the base
> of the windshield and along the canopy frame on both an RV-6A and -7A. It
> looked very nice and neat and he said he did it because he didn't like
> fiberglass (I understand that!). It was screwed in place to both the cowl
> and the screen and sealed with silicone. Has anybody else done this? I'm
> considering doing this because of the neat appearance and also I think
> replacing a cracked screen would be infinitely easier. Any thoughts out
> there in RV Land?
>
> Doug Fischer
> 90706 Wings
> Jenison, MI
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott VanArtsdalen" <svanarts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Which GPS should I buy |
I have an iPAQ 5555 running AnywhereMap and it works well. I wouldn't
go with a PDA that had a small screen. Get the biggest screen you can.
I can run AWM, and have media player going in the background playing my
MP3's with no noticeable degradation in performance.
You might also check into their new hardware platform the Raven. It's
going to have an integrated GPS with a large screen.
Doug Rozendaal pointed out their WX offering. They also have an XM
weather product now which is all the rage on the ControlVision forums.
That's probably another good place to check into before buying a PDA,
there are all kinds of opinions there. http://forum.controlvision.com/
They also have AnywhereMapXP which will run on a laptop or tablet PC but
the caveat there is size, space, and altitude. Most hard disks have an
altitude limitation of about 10,000 feet.
The only thing I would warn you about re: AWM is to purchase THEIR GPS
module whether it is a CF unit or a BlueTooth unit. Otherwise you won't
be able to utilize WAAS. Again, do a search on their forums to find out
why.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV
4-ever!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of dmedema(at)att.net
Subject: RV-List: Which GPS should I buy
Hi listers,
I don't want to start an argument, but I need some advice
on which GPS to buy. I've had the plane flying since last
November and I want to buy a GPS real soon!
I designed my panel thinking I would put in a HP iPAQ
running Anywhere Map. Since then, I've watched some
nice GPS come out like the Garmin 296 (won't fit), the
Lawrence 2000C (I was really interested in this but it
won't fit either), and the Garmin 96C. The 96C will
fit but it has a pretty small screen. All things considered,
I think I'm going with Anywhere Map.
This brings up the question of which PDA. Control Vision
recommends two different iPAQs, but I'm intrigued by the
Dell Axim X30. The screen is a bit smaller (3.5" vs 3.8"
diagonal), but the speed is quite a bit higher. Control
Vision sells a package for the Axim which includes a
Compact Flash mount GPS, some cables, and the
Anywhere Map software. However, the X30 doesn't
have a CF slot and I really don't like the idea of a flash
card mount GPS anyway given I want to mount the PDA
under my Dynon. Does anyone know what my options
are for a GPS with the X30? Is anyone using an Axim
with Anywhere Map? If so, how do you like it?
Thanks in advance,
Doug Medema
RV-6A N276DM
Hi listers,
I don't want to start an argument, but I need some advice
on which GPS to buy. I've had the plane flying since last
November and I want to buy a GPS real soon!
I designed my panel thinking I would put in a HP iPAQ
running Anywhere Map. Since then, I've watched some
nice GPS come out like the Garmin 296 (won't fit), the
Lawrence 2000C (I was really interested in this but it
won't fit either), and the Garmin 96C. The 96C will
fit but it has a pretty small screen. All things considered,
I think I'm going with Anywhere Map.
This brings up the question of which PDA. Control Vision
recommends two different iPAQs, but I'm intrigued by the
Dell Axim X30. The screen is a bit smaller (3.5" vs 3.8"
diagonal), but the speed is quite a bit higher. Control
Vision sells a package for the Axim which includesa
Compact Flash mount GPS, some cables, and the
Anywhere Map software. However, the X30 doesn't
have a CF slot andI really don't like the idea of a flash
card mount GPS anyway given I want to mount the PDA
under my Dynon. Does anyone know what my options
are for a GPS with the X30? Is anyone using an Axim
with Anywhere Map? If so, how do you like it?
Thanks in advance,
Doug Medema
RV-6A N276DM
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: On board WX was, Which GPS should I buy |
Doug,
I just received an Anywhere Map with XM weather system, running on an IPAQ 5500.
I also agree that these systems will transform flying. I only have a few hours
experience with it, all in sunlight. It is quite readable, but, with my
dark sunglasses on, the IPAQ needs to also be in the sun for me to see it. Without
sunglasses, it is no problem.
Alex Peterson
RV6A 528 hours
-----Original Message-----
From: Doug Rozendaal <dougr(at)petroblend.com>
Subject: RV-List: On board WX was, Which GPS should I buy
Doug,
On board WX may be a factor to consider in your purchase. I did a demo on
WX worx weather for an article for IFR magazine. This is a big deal! It is
real, it works, and in a few years it will be nearly as common as GPS and
everybit as useful.
I went to OSH to buy a system to display WX weather. I came home confused.
After that, I tried an Ipaq that belonged to a friend, with anywhere map and
WX Worx weather. I thought it would be great in the RV, but I was very
disappointed. the screen was hard to read, I don't think a mounted Ipaq
would work, because I had to tilt it to deal with glare.
The anywheremap software may work ok, but when you put the wx on the map, it
overloads the processor.
I tried a fujitsu p-600 with an ADR screen upgrade, and it is really cool,
but it is a $4000 600mhz out of date tablet pc.
Being true to my Dutch heritage, I just bought a fujitsu p600f on ebay for
$600 to display WX worx. I made a little box with the reciever, USB hub to
split the GPS/wx data, the power supply for the tablet pc.
The 600F has a transflective display. if you move it around, it is always
readable, the processor is slow but acceptable, the WXworx software works
really well, but it seems to be a processor hog. The recommend a 1gig
machine and the fujitsu is 600mhz.
The WX worx software with a GPS doesn't replace a handheld GPS, it just
tells you speed and heading and that is all. Other companies have and are
creating software to run on the PC platform, and I may upgrade, but I will
still have a battery powered handheld GPS onboard anytime I am IFR. ( I
just bought a lowrance airmap 500 and I love it!) I have flown with the 196
and 296 and they are both great units, I like the small size of the 500 and
the fact that it runs over 10hrs on 2 AA bats.
I have flown 3 trips with the fujistu, and I am really happy with it. It is
like having the ADDS weather site in your cockpit. One thing about it, an
autopilot would be almost mandatory, because it captivates alot of
attention, but it is GREAT information!
Tailwinds
Doug Rozendaal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Which GPS should I buy |
In a message dated 9/29/04 4:27:55 PM Central Daylight Time, dmedema(at)att.net
writes:
> . Does anyone know what my options
> are for a GPS with the X30? Is anyone using an Axim
> with Anywhere Map? If so, how do you like it?
>>>>
Hi Doug-
I would definately ask Control Vision if they guarantee the same
functionality using the Dell as they do with the iPAQ. I'm using a pair of Dell
X5s in my
panel running PCFlightSystems EFIS on one and NavGPS on the other- the nav
uses a Garmin 35 and the whole thing is integrated into one system. It all
works quite well except there are a number of the features such as HITS and the
air data interface that do not work. PCFlightSystems has been telling me the
Dell serial interface is somehow "different" from HP and that they are working
to resolve the problems, but still no updates since OSH.
Perhaps CV has this resolved, or the X30 is fully compatible, but I'd sure
ask!
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 2 VS 3 BLADES CATTO |
Fixed- foto sent off-list
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: On board WX was, Which GPS should I buy |
Correction: My Anywhere Map XM weather system uses an IPAQ 5550, not 5500.
Alex Peterson
RV6A 528 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: On board WX was, Which GPS should I buy |
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Are your sunglasses polarized? Non-polarized might help the situation.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Alex Peterson said:
>
> Doug,
>
> I just received an Anywhere Map with XM weather system, running on an IPAQ
> 5500. I also agree that these systems will transform flying. I only have
> a few hours experience with it, all in sunlight. It is quite readable,
> but, with my dark sunglasses on, the IPAQ needs to also be in the sun for
> me to see it. Without sunglasses, it is no problem.
>
> Alex Peterson
> RV6A 528 hours
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Doug Rozendaal <dougr(at)petroblend.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: On board WX was, Which GPS should I buy
>
>
> Doug,
>
> On board WX may be a factor to consider in your purchase. I did a demo on
> WX worx weather for an article for IFR magazine. This is a big deal! It
> is
> real, it works, and in a few years it will be nearly as common as GPS and
> everybit as useful.
>
> I went to OSH to buy a system to display WX weather. I came home
> confused.
> After that, I tried an Ipaq that belonged to a friend, with anywhere map
> and
> WX Worx weather. I thought it would be great in the RV, but I was very
> disappointed. the screen was hard to read, I don't think a mounted Ipaq
> would work, because I had to tilt it to deal with glare.
>
> The anywheremap software may work ok, but when you put the wx on the map,
> it
> overloads the processor.
>
> I tried a fujitsu p-600 with an ADR screen upgrade, and it is really cool,
> but it is a $4000 600mhz out of date tablet pc.
>
> Being true to my Dutch heritage, I just bought a fujitsu p600f on ebay for
> $600 to display WX worx. I made a little box with the reciever, USB hub
> to
> split the GPS/wx data, the power supply for the tablet pc.
>
> The 600F has a transflective display. if you move it around, it is always
> readable, the processor is slow but acceptable, the WXworx software works
> really well, but it seems to be a processor hog. The recommend a 1gig
> machine and the fujitsu is 600mhz.
>
> The WX worx software with a GPS doesn't replace a handheld GPS, it just
> tells you speed and heading and that is all. Other companies have and are
> creating software to run on the PC platform, and I may upgrade, but I will
> still have a battery powered handheld GPS onboard anytime I am IFR. ( I
> just bought a lowrance airmap 500 and I love it!) I have flown with the
> 196
> and 296 and they are both great units, I like the small size of the 500
> and
> the fact that it runs over 10hrs on 2 AA bats.
>
> I have flown 3 trips with the fujistu, and I am really happy with it. It
> is
> like having the ADDS weather site in your cockpit. One thing about it, an
> autopilot would be almost mandatory, because it captivates alot of
> attention, but it is GREAT information!
>
> Tailwinds
> Doug Rozendaal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: On board WX was, Which GPS should I buy |
Yes, but the rotational alignment is correct.
Alex Peterson
Are your sunglasses polarized? Non-polarized might help the situation.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Off Topic - F4 crashing into concrete wall - video |
Hi,
This is cool. http://69.93.149.132/files/concreteplane1.wmv
It was a test to make sure that nuclear power plants are
safe from planes crashing into them. Something to send
to people that still think we need restricted zones over
nuclear power plants.
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Which GPS should I buy |
dmedema(at)att.net wrote:
>
> Hi listers,
>
> I don't want to start an argument, but I need some advice on which
> GPS to buy. I've had the plane flying since last November and I want
> to buy a GPS real soon!
>
> I designed my panel thinking I would put in a HP iPAQ running
> Anywhere Map. Since then, I've watched some nice GPS come out like
> the Garmin 296 (won't fit), the Lawrence 2000C (I was really
> interested in this but it won't fit either), and the Garmin 96C. The
> 96C will fit but it has a pretty small screen. All things
> considered, I think I'm going with Anywhere Map.
>
> This brings up the question of which PDA. Control Vision recommends
> two different iPAQs, but I'm intrigued by the Dell Axim X30. The
> screen is a bit smaller (3.5" vs 3.8" diagonal), but the speed is
> quite a bit higher. Control Vision sells a package for the Axim
> which includes a Compact Flash mount GPS, some cables, and the
> Anywhere Map software. However, the X30 doesn't have a CF slot and I
> really don't like the idea of a flash card mount GPS anyway given I
> want to mount the PDA under my Dynon. Does anyone know what my
> options are for a GPS with the X30? Is anyone using an Axim with
> Anywhere Map? If so, how do you like it?
Doug, I have been using AWM with a 3765 for nearly three years. The AWM
software/iPAG is a good option with many unique features for the pilot
that is comfortable with using a computer in the cabin.
I recently purchased a Dell X30 and think it represents a very good
value and am pleased with it. The old 3765 was retired to full-time
service in the RV-6 since the battery had just about expired. It stays
powered up continuously on the aircraft battery so the software won't
get dumped.
Even though the X30 isn't being used for AWM, I use it on the car with
Street Atlas and a Radio Shack DigiTraveler GPS. You can get a GPS cable
for the X30 here:
http://pc-mobile.net/ax3.htm
I got the PX3GSP version so the X30 could be powered by the car battery
cable. I use the Garmin GPS35 in the RV-6 which is a fantastic receiver.
However, you probably want to check out the newer Garmin GPS18 PC which
should perform as well at a lower price:
http://www.gpscity.com/gps/brados/2452.1.9335267956618175890/template.html
I recommend you hard wire some connections to the avionics bus so you
can eliminate some of the cords and connections. The GPS will work fine
on 12vdc but you need to be aware the X30 needs 5vdc so don't wire it
directly to the bus!! You can either whip up a little power converter or
hack the car cord. Since you are an engineer I suspect you can figure
all this out...... ;-)
You will find the X30/GarminGPS combo to be a robust rig with a ton of
features that is continuously upgradeable.
Now, having said all that, I am considering replacing both the 3765 and
Lowrance 100 in the RV-6 with Lowrance's really cool Airmap 1000. The
display on this thing is BIG and that is good for my increasingly
hyperopic eyes. :-)
Those who are considering one of the Lowrance units can download a
simulator to run on a PC so you can play with the features:
http://www.lowrance.com/Software/PCSoftware/demos.asp
Sam Buchanan
http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Aircraft Spruce <fun_plane(at)yahoo.com> |
Jim Irwins President of Aircraft Spruce has asked me
to post this for him. Thank You...
I noticed your posting to the RV Group on Aircraft
Spruce's price being higher than others on the
KLX-135A, and you were absolutely correct. We had the
incorrect price on our web-site, and it has been
corrected from $2729 to $2475 which is quite
competitive. We asked Honeywell how Great Lakes could
offer it at $2195 (below our cost) and their only
guess was that they must be trying to move out old
stock since they have not purchased any in several
years.
Regards,
Jim Irwin
President, Aircraft Spruce
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
| Subject: | Flightline Interiors Work |
I just received my Oregon Aero seats for my RV6A that I sent to Abby Erdmann
at Flightline Interiors.
I can't say enough about how pleased I am with her work. It is FIRST CLASS.
She finished them soon than promised, and the work is flawless.
Thank you, Abby, for a job well done !!
John at Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nauga" <nauga(at)brick.net> |
| Subject: | VRML Model of an RV? |
Anyone know where I can find a VRML model of an RV?
RV-4 would be nice, but I'm not choosy.
Thanks,
Dave Hyde
nauga(at)brick.net
RV-4 in flight test
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flightline Interiors Work |
In a message dated 9/30/2004 7:45:58 PM Eastern Standard Time,
n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "John"
I just received my Oregon Aero seats for my RV6A that I sent to Abby Erdmann
at Flightline Interiors.
I can't say enough about how pleased I am with her work. It is FIRST CLASS.
She finished them soon than promised, and the work is flawless.
Thank you, Abby, for a job well done !!
John at Salida, CO
Thanks for the report. What's the difference between her seat cushions and
the Oregon Aero?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flightline Interiors Work |
The difference is in the upholstery...Abby upholstered the Oregon Aero
cushions for me...$350 for two seats. Oregon Aero wanted $375 EACH...a big
difference.
Abby also sells her own seat cushions which I didn't know.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Builders of the Quickbuilds |
Are these the folks building the quickbuilds? Hard to figure out if they're
now offering custom build services to us now or not. Not the greatest
website (check out the mission statement...!) but shows some interesting
jigs in use.
www.bonanzametalcrafters.com.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Marcel Bourgon <mbourgon(at)elp.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VRML Model of an RV? |
Nauga wrote:
>
>Anyone know where I can find a VRML model of an RV?
>RV-4 would be nice, but I'm not choosy.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Dave Hyde
>nauga(at)brick.net
>RV-4 in flight test
>
>
>
>
I am building a RV-9A and wanted a model as a incentive. I bought a
perfect wood model from Griffin Aerospace models. They will paint it
the way your finished product should look or send it to you primered.
1-817-624-2320
1-866-584-0260
aeromodel(at)aol.com
fred griffing
good luck
marcel in El paso
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Which GPS should I buy - dimming the 196 |
I had the same issue with my 196. However, *you can* lower the brightness
from the two preset levels. I don't have it with me right now, but I seem
to remember it being done with the contrast adjusting display. As I recall,
instead of toggling left and right for contrast, toggle up and down and
you'll get less or more light. Not sure if this was how I did it, but it
can in fact be lowered.
Bryan
>Haven't heard much on readability at night. I have a Garmin 196 in my -6.
>My only complain is it is much too bright at the lowest setting at night.
>I
>even tried to put a sheet of cling-on plastic of the darkest shade and was
>still too bright to my taste. My hangar mate has a 295. His cockpit glows
>during night flights.
>Anh
>Maryland
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Which GPS should I buy - dimming the 196 |
This puzzles me. With my Garmin 196, I can touch the on-off button and then
dim the screen to virtually off by pushing on the bottom of the 4- way
button, just like the instructions say. The sides of the 4-way button
increase or decrease screen contrast.
Terry
>Haven't heard much on readability at night. I have a Garmin 196 in my -6.
>My only complain is it is much too bright at the lowest setting at night.
>I
>even tried to put a sheet of cling-on plastic of the darkest shade and was
>still too bright to my taste. My hangar mate has a 295. His cockpit glows
>during night flights.
>Anh
>Maryland
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Which GPS should I buy - dimming the 196 |
Anh,
The 295 brightness and contrast is easily adjusted - Have your hanger mate
check his user manual.
Chuck
>From: "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Which GPS should I buy - dimming the 196
>Date: Fri, 1 Oct 2004 08:51:03 -0700
>
>
>This puzzles me. With my Garmin 196, I can touch the on-off button and
>then
>dim the screen to virtually off by pushing on the bottom of the 4- way
>button, just like the instructions say. The sides of the 4-way button
>increase or decrease screen contrast.
>
>Terry
>
>
> >Haven't heard much on readability at night. I have a Garmin 196 in my
>-6.
> >My only complain is it is much too bright at the lowest setting at night.
> >I
> >even tried to put a sheet of cling-on plastic of the darkest shade and
>was
> >still too bright to my taste. My hangar mate has a 295. His cockpit
>glows
> >during night flights.
> >Anh
> >Maryland
> >
>
>
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Builders of the Quickbuilds |
I think I recognized my RV8 fuselage in there!
I know I've said it before, but it's worth saying
again. I'm real impressed with the quality of my
QB. The way they installed the skins on the fuselage
is really top notch. Perfect overlapping seams everywhere.
If only they used better primer!
Mickey
>Are these the folks building the quickbuilds? Hard to figure out if they're
>now offering custom build services to us now or not. Not the greatest
>website (check out the mission statement...!) but shows some interesting
>jigs in use.
>
>www.bonanzametalcrafters.com.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | flmike <flmike2001(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Builders of the Quickbuilds |
I think I "might" see a set of plans in one of the
pictures. Maybe that explains the backwards bulkhead
in my friend's -8 QB along with a few other oops.
There should be appropriate drawings handy at every
workstation.
Mike
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stan Jones" <stan.jones(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Builders of the Quickbuilds |
We have a QB here in Queenstown, New Zealand, and I often refer to it and
wonder how they so neatly set some of the more difficult rivets, like the
ones I drill out several times, and in the end settle for something less
than I aimed for. By the time I had put together my 100th fuse. I would
expect my skills to have improved. But get a load of those poor buggers that
sit at that table, day after day,scrubbing and deburring. We all hate that
time consuming task, but to them I suppose a job is a job
Stan Jones.
-------Original Message-------
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Saturday, October 02, 2004 07:12:07
Subject: Re: RV-List: Builders of the Quickbuilds
I think I recognized my RV8 fuselage in there!
I know I've said it before, but it's worth saying
again. I'm real impressed with the quality of my
QB. The way they installed the skins on the fuselage
is really top notch. Perfect overlapping seams everywhere.
If only they used better primer!
Mickey
>Are these the folks building the quickbuilds? Hard to figure out if they're
>now offering custom build services to us now or not. Not the greatest
>website (check out the mission statement...!) but shows some interesting
>jigs in use.
>
>www.bonanzametalcrafters.com.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Lein <pj115(at)journey.com> |
| Subject: | Selling my RV - followup |
Hello all,
Thanks for the good advice on and off the list. I've got a spec sheet
with photographs now that I'll be happy to email to any interested
parties. I'm awaiting answers from a couple people that are helping me
with fair market price, so I should have a target price in the next day
or two. Thanks again.
Paul
Paul Lein
1555 South Brinton Road
Mt. Pleasant, MI 48858-9628
Tel. 989 644-2451
Fax 989 644-6098
pj115(at)journey.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Which GPS should I buy |
I recently replaced my garmin 195 after 4 yrs of service. I chose a Garmin
296 over the large Lowrance airmap and the anywhere map for the following
reasons:
1) Lowrance is FANTASTIC, but it was too large to work in an RV-4 cockpit.
I didn't want to strap it to my leg as I commonly have a kneeboard strapped
to my leg during cross country flights. If I owned a 6, 7, 9, or maybe even
an 8, I'd definitely have looked harder at it. At 999 its a steal.
2) I flew from Seatle to CT with Anywhere Map. I was very impressed with
the software, but was very disappointed with its implementation on Windows
handhelds. It rebooted 2 times during the 3 day trip. This is an
incredible piece of software looking for a dedicated piece of hardware to
run on.
3) I knew 296 would work as advertised. It was the right size for the
inside of my cockpit. It fit below my Dynon on my panel.
Thoughts on the 296 now that I've owned it.
1) Display is great in bright sunlight. It is backlit, but is also very
reflective so it works OK even without the backlight.
2) Battery really honestly lasts for 12 or so hours. I was pleasantly
surprised.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Fenstermacher" <dfenstermacher(at)earthlink.net> |
Don't usually do this sort of thing (post about companies). But....
Check out www.clearairtools.com
I got a CP-214C remanufactured squeezer for 290 bucks (with a yoke). I had a leak
in the swivel and he is sending me another before I send the one I have back
(no downtime).
The owner is building a 6A, so he is sensitive to this sort of thing.
When I mentioned that I could provide a receipt, he wasn't worried. He just wanted
to make it right.
I would recommend.
Dave
blah, blah, blah - not affiliated.
David Fenstermacher
dfenstermacher(at)earthlink.net
Why Wait? Move to EarthLink.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "923te" <923te(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Attaching Engine to Mount |
I'm having trouble attaching an O320 engine to the dynafocal mount. Anyone
have any helpful hints? Is there a difference between the O320 and O360
mounts?
Thanks,
Ned
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | IO-360-A1B6D & D4LN-3000 dual mag pack |
Thanks for the info Mahlon!
Last night long after I should have been asleep I finally stumbled on some
stuff by accident that I needed to know about this engine which I never ran
across before including this P lead kit. I found some direct info at
_http://www.sacskyranch.com/acatalog/Sacramento_Sky_Ranch_P_lead_ground_terminal_kits_292
.html_
(http://www.sacskyranch.com/acatalog/Sacramento_Sky_Ranch_P_lead_ground_terminal_kits_292.html)
Unfortunately unless the kit has some kind of instruction or the book I
ordered does then I'll be back asking for help :-)
But the serious issue I discovered at a cessna/cardinal web site which some
before me hadn't prior to engine seizing in flight was that engines with dual
mags requires a special blocking plate to be installed between two gaskets on
a rear mounted prop governor.
_http://www.cardinalflyers.com/pub/info/govplate.htm_
(http://www.cardinalflyers.com/pub/info/govplate.htm)
Lycoming SI 1438 supposedly covers this. "...Lycoming's service instruction
# 1438 dated July 9, 1987 stating that ALL 4 & 6 cyl. dual mag engines with
rear mount govenors must have this plate. [Emphasis added.. Webmaster]"
This critical part does not show up in the engine or airframe manuals and
many A&Ps apparently aren't trained/aware this according to the article.
Lucky
In a message dated 10/2/2004 6:02:47 AM Eastern Standard Time,
mahlon_russell(at)teledyne.com writes:
Lucky,
There is a special P lead attachment kit that you will need. P/N LW-
382698. It is shown in the IO-360-A3B6D parts book for the engine,
item number 9, Figure 28, page 4-13. Its installation on the p lead
wires requires some minor soldering. It is not something you will
likely to be able to fabricate on your own.
Good Luck,
Mahlon
--- In lycoming(at)yahoogroups.com, RV8ter(at)a... wrote:
> My mag book hasn't arrived yet and there's no telling it will have
all I'm
> looking for anyway so does someone have a picture and or a
description of how
> the p leads are supposed to be connected to the dual mag pack? I
thnk I'm
> missing some "special" connector for the leads because it's not a
simple
> threaded stud like I've seen before.
>
> D4LN-3000 is the model.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Attaching Engine to Mount |
I doubt there's a difference. My io-360 was a royal pain in the a$$ too and
when I finally finished I didn't think the next time would be any easier.
There were times when you need to actually push/pull the mount to line up
with the holes. I did most of that by allowing the engine with mount half
attached to be lowered so that the weight of the engine would move the mount
in the directions I needed it to go. In the end, the final bolt had to be
socket wrenched through the hole kicking and screaming all the way.
----Original Message Follows----
From: "923te" <923te(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Attaching Engine to Mount
Date: Sat, 2 Oct 2004 05:43:08 -0500
I'm having trouble attaching an O320 engine to the dynafocal mount. Anyone
have any helpful hints? Is there a difference between the O320 and O360
mounts?
Thanks,
Ned
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dale Mitchell <dfm4290(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Attaching Engine to Mount |
When I mounted my engine I had to have the bolts
already installed tightened down before the other
bolts would line up.
Dale Mitchell RV-8A MN wing
--- 923te <923te(at)cox.net> wrote:
> <923te(at)cox.net>
>
> I'm having trouble attaching an O320 engine to the
> dynafocal mount. Anyone
> have any helpful hints? Is there a difference
> between the O320 and O360
> mounts?
> Thanks,
> Ned
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
_______________________________
Declare Yourself - Register online to vote today!
http://vote.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Attaching Engine to Mount |
Hi Ned:
I refer you to the link listed below which is for the illustrated guide to
engine hanging done by Jim Norman et. al.
I used his techniques/tips and was able to hang my 0320 E3D in about 45
minutes. They were very helpful.
Excuse the pun, but hang in there.
http://www.vansairforce.net/articles/IllustratedGuideToEngineHanging/enginehanging.htm
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P (reserved)
firewall forward
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "923te" <923te(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Attaching Engine to Mount
>
> I'm having trouble attaching an O320 engine to the dynafocal mount. Anyone
> have any helpful hints? Is there a difference between the O320 and O360
> mounts?
> Thanks,
> Ned
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | setting engine down. |
It is becoming clear, as I contemplate engine installation, firewall
penetrations, baff;es, etc., etc. that muy engine is going to spend a
lot of time on the hoist before getting bolted to the plane. (I've been
advised to keep it on the hoist and just move it up into position to
estimate wire lengths, hoses, etc. That keeps it and the mount out of
the way while working on the firewall.)
So, if this is true, then I need to set the engine down a lot. I don't
want to put it back in its crate because that involves bolting it to the
large steel brackets that are attached to the crate and will probably be
very difficult.
So is it OK to set it down on the sump on some 4x4 wooden blocks? One
suggstion I got was to get a couple pieces of foam insulation sold in
sheets at Home Depot (about 5 inches of foam total) and set it on that.
What do people normally use?
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, Landing gear
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: setting engine down. |
thomas a. sargent wrote:
>
> It is becoming clear, as I contemplate engine installation, firewall
> penetrations, baff;es, etc., etc. that muy engine is going to spend a
> lot of time on the hoist before getting bolted to the plane. (I've been
> advised to keep it on the hoist and just move it up into position to
> estimate wire lengths, hoses, etc. That keeps it and the mount out of
> the way while working on the firewall.)
>
> So, if this is true, then I need to set the engine down a lot. I don't
> want to put it back in its crate because that involves bolting it to the
> large steel brackets that are attached to the crate and will probably be
> very difficult.
>
> So is it OK to set it down on the sump on some 4x4 wooden blocks? One
> suggstion I got was to get a couple pieces of foam insulation sold in
> sheets at Home Depot (about 5 inches of foam total) and set it on that.
> What do people normally use?
Tom, one way to support the engine (if the carb/injector is not
installed) is to set the engine on a couple of old tires. Check out the
photo near the bottom of this page to see how I transported my engine:
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/overhaul-3.htm
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry2DT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Superior XP-IO360/FF sump question |
Listers...
I have a Superior XP-IO360 with the new Ryton plastic forward facing sump.
If anyone has the same setup, and has pix to share, I would be curious to see
where/how the bracket for throttle cable was mounted. Van's bracket doesn't
seem to fit. Email off list if you wish at _jerry2dt(at)aol.com_
(mailto:jerry2dt(at)aol.com) .
Thanx.
Jerry Cochran
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris W <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: setting engine down. |
thomas a. sargent wrote:
>So, if this is true, then I need to set the engine down a lot.
>
Why can't you leave the engine on the hoist? If you are concerned about
loosing hydraulic pressure and it falling or slowly leaking down, why
not just cut some steel tubing in half length wise and clamp it around
the rod on the hoist's hydraulic cylinder between the cylinder top and
the rod end clevis, then it can't fall even if it has a sudden loss of
hydraulic pressure.
--
Chris W
Bring Back the HP 15C
http://hp15c.org
Not getting the gifts you want? The Wish Zone can help.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | setting engine down. |
I always feel better relieving the stress on the case since the whole load
goes thru one case bolt so I bought a 4 wheel garden cart from Harbor
Freight. I added a piece of MDF and some old tires to support the engine. It
will roll between the outriggers of the engine hoist so I can drop it on the
cart to support it in place or disconnect the hoist and move them around
separately. A $40 cart seemed like cheap insurance.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
> --> <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm(at)cox.net>
>
> thomas a. sargent wrote:
>
> >So, if this is true, then I need to set the engine down a lot.
> >
> Why can't you leave the engine on the hoist? If you are
> concerned about loosing hydraulic pressure and it falling or
> slowly leaking down, why not just cut some steel tubing in
> half length wise and clamp it around the rod on the hoist's
> hydraulic cylinder between the cylinder top and the rod end
> clevis, then it can't fall even if it has a sudden loss of
> hydraulic pressure.
>
> --
> Chris W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Glazing putty and Smooth Prime |
Anybody know about using glazing putty on top of Polyfiber Smooth
Prime? I'm worried about it being water based, and if there are any
products to stay away from. Specifically, has anyone used a product
called "Ice" made by, I believe, PPG? Is this suitable was use over
Smooth Prime?
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: setting engine down. |
thomas a. sargent wrote:
>
>It is becoming clear, as I contemplate engine installation, firewall
>penetrations, baff;es, etc., etc. that muy engine is going to spend a
>lot of time on the hoist before getting bolted to the plane. (I've been
>advised to keep it on the hoist and just move it up into position to
>estimate wire lengths, hoses, etc. That keeps it and the mount out of
>the way while working on the firewall.)
>
>So, if this is true, then I need to set the engine down a lot. I don't
>want to put it back in its crate because that involves bolting it to the
>large steel brackets that are attached to the crate and will probably be
>very difficult.
>
>So is it OK to set it down on the sump on some 4x4 wooden blocks? One
>suggstion I got was to get a couple pieces of foam insulation sold in
>sheets at Home Depot (about 5 inches of foam total) and set it on that.
>What do people normally use?
>
Bolt the engine to the engine mount and stand it on a table with the
prop flange pointing up. If you set it down on the firewall, or
aluminum cut to shape of the firewall, then you can plan on where to
bolt things down and the length of stuff goint through the firewall is
easily measured. You can put all the plumbing in place with this setup
and work on a more reasonable level than hanging in front of the
firewall on a hoist.
Linn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: >Re: setting engine down |
As Linn Walters said, with the engine on the mount you can get all the
measurements easier. It would also be easier to bolt the engine to the mount with
the engine weight on the Lord Mounts. You should be able to put the bolts in
with the engine weight compressing the mounts without having all the trouble
usually associated with this chore.
My 2 cents worth,
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert E. Lynch" <rv6lynch(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Jefferson City, Missouri - FLY-IN!!! 10/09/04 |
The 3rd Annual Jefferson City, Missouri (JEF) will be held this coming
weekend October 9th!! This years event will feature Wings & Wheels with
approximately 30 collector cars in attendance. Lunch will be served.
See you there!
For more information please eMail me off-line.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | engine starter suddenly not meshing |
A strange thing happened recently to my 6a. I have an io360 with a Dick Waters/air
tech starter and it has been working flawlessly for about 120 hours. It
then started to not mesh with the flywheel about every other start and then worsened
to all the time. I was able to put the prop in a low compression point
to get it to engage. Once I took the cowl off I shimmed the starter out from
the engine the thickness of a washer and reinstalled. The teeth now mesh about
1/2 their depth and the starter has engaged every time, about 10 tries now.
Im wondering why something like this would develop over time. Does anyone out
there have a suggestion on why this would happen over time?
Shemp
6a 135 hrs
Chicago/Louisville
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DejaVu" <wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Which GPS should I buy - dimming the 196 |
Ahh.... could be operator error. I touch the on-off button repeatedly vice
using the 4-way button. The on-off button only give you 4 settings.
Anh
Maryland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Which GPS should I buy - dimming the 196
>
> This puzzles me. With my Garmin 196, I can touch the on-off button and
then
> dim the screen to virtually off by pushing on the bottom of the 4- way
> button, just like the instructions say. The sides of the 4-way button
> increase or decrease screen contrast.
>
> Terry
>
>
> >Haven't heard much on readability at night. I have a Garmin 196 in
my -6.
> >My only complain is it is much too bright at the lowest setting at night.
> >I
> >even tried to put a sheet of cling-on plastic of the darkest shade and
was
> >still too bright to my taste. My hangar mate has a 295. His cockpit
glows
> >during night flights.
> >Anh
> >Maryland
> >
>
>
> ---
>
>
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Schreck" <ronschreck(at)earthlink.net> |
Maybe I'm just not looking in the right places, but I can't find a source for the
45 degree oil fitting for Lycoming engines. You know the one that you have
to put in before you mount the engine. Any help?
Ron Schreck
Gold Hill Airpark, NC
RV-8, ready to hang engine
ronschreck(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | richard dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
Hi Ron,
I think the fitting you mean is the 45 degree, 1/8" NPT to tube with a
restritor. It is in the Van's catalog on page 13.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
-6A getting ready to move to the airport.
Ron Schreck wrote:
>
>Maybe I'm just not looking in the right places, but I can't find a source for
the 45 degree oil fitting for Lycoming engines. You know the one that you have
to put in before you mount the engine. Any help?
>
>
>Ron Schreck
>Gold Hill Airpark, NC
>RV-8, ready to hang engine
>ronschreck(at)earthlink.net
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronnie Brown" <romott(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | 4 way HAT switches |
You can also purchase these trim switches from Infinity for $15 + $1 for the China
Hat
http://www.infinityaerospace.com/4-way-pic-and-specs.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 4 way HAT switches |
ray allen's 4 way hat switch used on their newer line of stick grips is
rated up t 15 amps and are advertised as not need a relay deck with using their
trim servos so you should consider using them if you want to avoid additional
cost/work/complexity.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Trevor Davis" <tdavis(at)netactive.co.za> |
| Subject: | RV-List:Lasar ignition backup mode |
My Lasar Ignition system reverts to "backup" mode shortly after T/O
System worked perfectly for first 7-8 flts. Shortly thereafter it started reverting
to
backup mode but corrected itself. This became more frequent and now remains in
backup from just after T/O
I have tried resetting in flt but this works for approx two minutes only. It definately
works during these two min as evidenced by reduction in EGT's and smoother
running of engine. Thus far I have disconnected the CHT probe, checked
for loose wires,chafing and suction connection. All ok. Also re-gelled the contacts.
Tests ok during ground
checks. Also tried various power/RPM/mixture settings to no avail. No excessive
temps in all phases of operation
Any suggestions?
Trevor Davis (South Africa) RV-6 with IO-320
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Lasar ignition backup mode |
> My Lasar Ignition system reverts to "backup" mode shortly after T/O
> System worked perfectly for first 7-8 flts. Shortly thereafter it started
reverting to
> backup mode but corrected itself. This became more frequent and now
remains in backup from just after T/O
> I have tried resetting in flt but this works for approx two minutes only.
It definately works during these two min as evidenced by reduction in EGT's
and smoother running of engine. Thus far I have disconnected the CHT probe,
checked
> for loose wires,chafing and suction connection. All ok. Also re-gelled
the contacts. Tests ok during ground
> checks. Also tried various power/RPM/mixture settings to no avail. No
excessive temps in all phases of operation
> Any suggestions?
>
> Trevor Davis (South Africa) RV-6 with IO-320
Trevor,
The connections to the CHT sensor are a known problem with these units, they
must be perfect or the unit will go into backup mode. If you simply
disconnect the CHT leads it will never get into electronic mode so that
won't work. Unison sometimes recomments soldering or crimping the
connections rather than using spade disconnects. If that isn't it then
consider sending the brain back. Their turnaround is fairly quick (although
South Africa is a bit of jaunt!). BTW, for experimental aircraft LASAR can
be ordered without the CHT sensor circuit, which is the way I ordered mine
and recommend that others do. It is only required for certified aircraft.
Randy Lervold
www.rv-3.com
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "steve zicree" <szicree(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | re: rv4 cowl cheeks |
Can anyone share their experiences with the RV4 cowl cheek extensions. Specifically,
how did you deal with the interference between them and the top forward
skin, and also, did you use any filler to fair them to the side skins or just
rivet em on and paint? Thanks.
Steve Zicree
Starting Finishing Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim & Bev Cone" <jimnbev(at)olypen.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Attaching Engine to Mount |
Avery Tools sells a set of alignment pins that I invented that makes getting the
bolts in much easier. In addition to the article mentioned, I taped the rubber
pucks in place and that way you don't have to worry about keeping them in
place by hand. The alignment pins are fairly short and act as a lead through
the holes that lines things up as they are driven through by the bolt that follows.
All you have to do is tap the pin in until just before it gets to the edge
of the mount and then with the bolt, give it just one good tap and then the
bolt holds things aligned. I mounted my engine by myself in about 30 minutes.
The pin falls out of the other side as you push the bolt through. The short
pins are for the bottom bolts and the longer pins are for the top ones.
Jim Cone
3-peat Offender
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: re: rv4 cowl cheeks |
A friend with a nice RV-4 simply trimmed the cheek extensions to butt
against the top skin. I might shim the extensions with 0.032 and avoid
trimming them.
He didn't try to fair them to the side skins, and I think that's the right
approach.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "steve zicree" <szicree(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: RV-List: re: rv4 cowl cheeks
>
> Can anyone share their experiences with the RV4 cowl cheek extensions.
> Specifically, how did you deal with the interference between them and the
> top forward skin, and also, did you use any filler to fair them to the
> side skins or just rivet em on and paint? Thanks.
>
> Steve Zicree
> Starting Finishing Kit
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ray sheffield" <rv8a(at)csranet.com> |
I have a 70cm-78 sensenich propeller with van's spacer, spinner, and bolts
for sale.
This is used on a lycoming o-320 160 hp engine. Less than 200 hrs very good
condition.
$1500
Jerry Berger
803 663 9974
south Carolina
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuselage Order Questions |
| From: | "" <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com> |
All,
Just getting ready to send in the order for the 7A fuselage kit, and I am having
trouble deciding on a few options. I searched the archives, but I didn't really
get all my questions answered.
1) Steps - 0, 1, or 2? - I believe I have read that there is not a real speed penalty
in adding the steps. I am also thinking it would look odd to have just
one. Current thinking is to go with two. I am about 5'11", and I am not super
worried about accomadating passengers. That being said...if there's no speed
penalty, then I guess it makes sense to add them anyway.
2) Aileron trim - manual vs electric - Where would the knob get located if it were
manual? Does it interfere with anything? I went manual with the elevator.
Only reason I can think to go electric is if it is logistically much cleaner
with the electric.
3) Static air - I installed the Gretz mount and am waiting for the never ending
Dynon heated pitot. Would I need the static kit? The plane will be IFR.
Thanks,
Scott
7A Wings
www.scottsrv7a.com
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Order Questions |
----- Original Message -----
From: <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com>
Subject: RV-List: Fuselage Order Questions
>
>
> All,
>
> Just getting ready to send in the order for the 7A fuselage kit, and I am
> having trouble deciding on a few options. I searched the archives, but I
> didn't really get all my questions answered.
>
> 1) Steps - 0, 1, or 2? - I believe I have read that there is not a real
> speed penalty in adding the steps. I am also thinking it would look odd
> to have just one. Current thinking is to go with two. I am about 5'11",
> and I am not super worried about accomadating passengers. That being
> said...if there's no speed penalty, then I guess it makes sense to add
> them anyway.
I'm sure the steps cost a little speed. Maybe not measurable unless you
have NASA's test equipment... That said, I'd install both steps. All of
your passengers won't be spry, and one day you won't be either. It is a
chore for my wife to get in and out of my -6, even with the flaps down.
When I park the airplane outside on overnight trips, I lock the flaps up and
the canopy closed, so I've got quite a first step onto the wing and over the
flap. A step would be handy.
> 2) Aileron trim - manual vs electric - Where would the knob get located if
> it were manual? Does it interfere with anything? I went manual with the
> elevator. Only reason I can think to go electric is if it is logistically
> much cleaner with the electric.
In the -6, the manual trim goes between the seats, behind the fuel selector.
Not in the way of anything.
> 3) Static air - I installed the Gretz mount and am waiting for the never
> ending Dynon heated pitot. Would I need the static kit? The plane will be
> IFR.
I imagine so, unless the pitot system (Gretz?) has a static port built in.
> Thanks,
> Scott
> 7A Wings
> www.scottsrv7a.com
>
> Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
> The most personalized portal on the Web!
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dynon D-10 Encoder Question |
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
writes:
>
> That's wild! Thanks for the clarification.
>
> So with a serializer, I presume the Dynon can encode for the GPS
> (GX-60) as
> well. Nice. Although as far as I know, it costs just as much to
> buy a
> standalone serializer as it does just to buy a Sandia or Trans-Cal
> dual-output encoder in the first place.
>
> Is the EFIS-D10 adjustable just like any other blind encoder? I
> guess I
> should call Dynon one of these days, but I figure the more info we
> can
> disseminate here the less loaded Dynon will be on the phones, the
> quicker
> we'll all get our units shipped.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net>
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Dynon D-10 Encoder Question
>
>
>
> >
> > I just went through that thought process also. Terribly wrong I
> was. The
> > Dynon produces "Gray code" that the transponder needs to report
> altitude.
> > This should be emphasized a lot more in there literature. In my
> mind this
> > is another very good selling point.
> >
> > The plug and play panel with the Dynon turned out great, I got a
> lot of
> > comments on the unit "flying" on the bench. I can't say enough
> about how
> > impressed I am with the installation and the ease wiring it in.
> >
> > Noel
> > Blue Sky Aviation, Inc.
> > "We do builder assistance!"
> > Toll Free: 866-859-0390
> > info(at)blueskyaviation.net
> > www.blueskyaviation.net <http://www.blueskyaviation.net>
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dan
> Checkoway
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon D-10 Encoder Question
> >
> >
> >
> > My understanding is that the Dynon requires an encoder INPUT, it
> doesn't
> > produce encoder output. I could be completely wrong. Take a look
> at
> > http://www.dynonavionics.com/docs/efis-d10wiring.html and you'll
> see that
> > "Blind encoder gray code outputs" are required. I interpret that
> to mean
> > "output *from* an encoder," not output *as* an encoder.
> >
> > I intend to confirm this with Dynon once I have the EFIS-D10 and
> am wiring
> > it in, assuming the installation manual doesn't make this crystal
> clear.
> >
> > I have the Sandia SAE5-35 which seems to be one of the better
> units out
> > there for the price...provides both gray code and serial output
> for a GPS
> > (GX-60 in my case) and a transponder (GTX-320A in my case) and the
> Dynon.
> > Nice mechanism for quickly removing the unit from its mounting
> base with
> no
> > tools, too.
> >
> > )_( Dan
> > RV-7 N714D
> > http://www.rvproject.com
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net>
> > To:
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon D-10 Encoder Question
> >
> >
>
> > >
> > > Mike: From the Dynon documentation I read from the web site at
> > > www.dynonavionics.com I do not see where the D10 unit performs
> the
> > altitude
> > > encoder function. It would seem to me an external encoder would
> still
> be
> > > needed. Some one that has installed could chime in on this
> > > concern/question.
> > >
> > > I'd like to know if it does the encoder function that could be
> output to
> a
> > > transponder and/or GPS. I have been looking at the Sandia
> encoder for
> > that
> > > function.
> > > .
> > > Larry in Indiana, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360
> > > Working on Finish Kit
> > >
> > > Aviation in itself is not inherently dangerous. But ..... is
> terribly
> > > unforgiving of any carelessness, incapacity or neglect.
> > > ..Author unknown
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: <N223RV(at)aol.com>
> > > To:
> > > Subject: RV-List: Dynon D-10 Encoder Question
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > My Dynon D-10 is supposed to be shipped this week (FYI, I'm
> order
> #199).
> > > I
> > > > have a question about the included encoder. Is anyone flying
> using
> the
> > > Dynon
> > > > encoder? If so, how does it work (good, bad, needed
> adjustment,
> etc.).
> > > >
> > > > I am contemplating whether to keep my stand alone encoder, or
> remove
> it
> > > and
> > > > just utilize the Dynon's built in encoder.
> > > >
> > > > Any thoughts?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks
> > > > Mike Kraus
> > > > N223RV RV-4 Flying
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | RV-List:Lasar ignition backup mode |
Thanks to help from people on this list, and a follow-up call to Unison to confirm,
it was determined that the CHT hookup is not necessary with many of Van's
supplied engines. Check the model number of the Lasar controller to be sure.
If it is LC1001-01, it is non CHT.
I have a similar question. I fired up my Lasar equipped O-320-D1A up for the first
time last week. The (optional) ennunciator light went out as soon as the
engine started, but in a subsequent engine start, the light remained on, hence.....BACKUP
IGNITION MODE. What do I look for to correct this? Since the engine
was factory equipped with the Lasar system installed, do I still need to time
it with the special LASAR timing light? Also, am I correct to assume that
the mags are the impulse type?
Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Order Questions |
Hi Scott,
Order 2 steps. You may not need them on the -7, but on the -7A you
definitely need the steps.
Fly the airplane first with no trim at all. I haven't touched mine (manual),
and I'm seriously thinking of taking it out and throwing it away. If you
decide later that you need it, it will be just as easy to install then.
Don't know about the static air. I used Vans static kit. I don't have a
Dynon.
Hope this helps,
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
N766DH (Flying since 7/7/04 -- 56 fantastic hours)
In a message dated 10/3/04 2:28:37 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com writes:
>
>
>
> All,
>
> Just getting ready to send in the order for the 7A fuselage kit, and I am
> having trouble deciding on a few options. I searched the archives, but I
> didn't really get all my questions answered.
>
> 1) Steps - 0, 1, or 2? - I believe I have read that there is not a real
> speed penalty in adding the steps. I am also thinking it would look odd to have
> just one. Current thinking is to go with two. I am about 5'11", and I am
> not super worried about accomadating passengers. That being said...if there's
> no speed penalty, then I guess it makes sense to add them anyway.
>
> 2) Aileron trim - manual vs electric - Where would the knob get located if
> it were manual? Does it interfere with anything? I went manual with the
> elevator. Only reason I can think to go electric is if it is logistically much
> cleaner with the electric.
>
> 3) Static air - I installed the Gretz mount and am waiting for the never
> ending Dynon heated pitot. Would I need the static kit? The plane will be IFR.
>
> Thanks,
> Scott
> 7A Wings
> www.scottsrv7a.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
I was hoping someone could help me. I just started on my RV-7A. Just
finished the Horizontal stabilizer and then noticed that I had a bad rivet.
The rivet is loose, but it won't come out. It's in a part that I can no
longer get to the back of without drilling out a lot of rivets. If you click
on a link you can see a picture of it.
Does anyone have any ideas?
http://kane-king.com/rv7aproject/images/BadRivet.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jammeter(at)comcast.net |
I'd drill it out and replace with a CS4-4 ( I think that's the part number...
it's been 15 years since I built my RV-6). Before you paint simply put a little
"bondo" in the rivit hole. As you build, keep in mind you're not building
a piano.... Van told me once that you could leave out every 10th rivet and the
plane would still be safe to fly.
I just remembered... those rivets are 3/32nd's... so use an appropriate pop rivet
of that size.
John Ammeter
-------------- Original message --------------
>
> I was hoping someone could help me. I just started on my RV-7A. Just
> finished the Horizontal stabilizer and then noticed that I had a bad rivet.
> The rivet is loose, but it won't come out. It's in a part that I can no
> longer get to the back of without drilling out a lot of rivets. If you click
> on a link you can see a picture of it.
>
> Does anyone have any ideas?
>
> http://kane-king.com/rv7aproject/images/BadRivet.jpg
>
>
>
>
>
>
I'd drill it out and replace with a CS4-4 ( I think that's the part number... it's
been 15 years since I built my RV-6). Before you paint simply put a little
"bondo" in the rivit hole. As you build, keep in mind you're not building a piano....
Van told me once that you could leave out every 10th rivet and the plane
would still be safe to fly.
I just remembered... those rivets are 3/32nd's... so use an appropriate pop rivet
of that size.
John Ammeter
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: "William King" <BILL@KANE-KING.COM>
I was hoping someone could help me. I just started on my RV-7A. Just
finished the Horizontal stabilizer and then noticed that I had a bad rivet.
The rivet is loose, but it won't come out. It's in a part that I can no
longer get to the back of without drilling out a lot of rivets. If you click
on a link you can see a picture of it.
Does anyone have any ideas?
http://kane-king.com/rv7aproject/images/BadRivet.jpg
ads or any other
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net> |
First off rejoice at finding it now. How embarrassing when the DAR
taps on the skin and watches for dancing rivets!.
Stuff a little carpet tape (double side sticky) under the head then
drill it out. After clean up, put a pop rivet in.
Don't worry the stub will work its way out on your initial stall tests.
When I show someone how to rivet, I spend most of the time showing them
how to drill out rivets.
Denis
On Oct 3, 2004, at 5:20 PM, William King wrote:
>
> I was hoping someone could help me. I just started on my RV-7A. Just
> finished the Horizontal stabilizer and then noticed that I had a bad
> rivet.
> The rivet is loose, but it won't come out. It's in a part that I can no
> longer get to the back of without drilling out a lot of rivets. If you
> click
> on a link you can see a picture of it.
>
> Does anyone have any ideas?
>
> http://kane-king.com/rv7aproject/images/BadRivet.jpg
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jordan Grant" <gra9933(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Hobbyair Quck Disconnects |
Does anyone know where I can get a quick-disconnect fitting that is
compatible with those used on the HobbyAir respirator system?
Thank you,
Jordan Grant
RV-6 Trying to paint
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Fuselage Order Questions |
Scott,
I see in your original post that you plan to have the plane IFR. You
will definitely want the aileron trim, manual is just fine.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 530 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
> Fly the airplane first with no trim at all. I haven't
> touched mine (manual),
> and I'm seriously thinking of taking it out and throwing it
> away. If you
> decide later that you need it, it will be just as easy to
> install then.
> > 2) Aileron trim - manual vs electric - Where would the knob get
> > located if
> > it were manual? Does it interfere with anything? I went
> manual with the
> > elevator. Only reason I can think to go electric is if it
> is logistically much
> > cleaner with the electric.
> >
> > 3) Static air - I installed the Gretz mount and am waiting for the
> > never
> > ending Dynon heated pitot. Would I need the static kit?
> The plane will be IFR.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Scott
> > 7A Wings
> > www.scottsrv7a.com
\
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Off the shelf hardware and Spaceship One |
The Rutan boys have released videos of they're successful first X-prize
launch last week. I was watching it and noticed something really cool. I
heard that there was a Dynon EFIS on board but there it was in the video.
So I paused the video and holy @#$% what is that. Why, its a Garmin GPS 196
on the glare shield. NASA would use a $21,000,000 custom ring laser gyro
inertial system, but these guys used an off the shelf handheld GPS. Now I
just wonder where they mounted the antenna.
By the way, details, the video is here:
http://www.scaled.com/projects/tierone/video/X-Prize-flight-1.wmv
The scene where the Dynon and Garmin are visible is 1:30 into it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Battery box - securing battery |
I have a circa 1999 RV-6A kit with the Battery box in the cabin. It
looks to me like the battery has to be restrained somehow or its
terminals could short to the inside top of the battery battery box. The
QB manual doesn't seem to mention battery installation.
One could rig some sort of strap I suppose, or perhaps attach some
blocks of wood or nylon to the inside of the box cover. They'd have to
have just the right thickness to hold down the battery when the cover
was secured.
1) What is the usual way of holding the battery out of harms way?
2) I suppose the battery cables will exit the box through large
grommeted holes in the side? Is there a better/safer way to do this?
Thanks.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery box - securing battery |
Thomas,
I believe the plans call for a couple of aluminum angle tabs that hold down
the battery. One side of each tab rivets to the battery box, the other
"flat" on the angle rests on top of the battery and keeps it from moving
around.
Your idea about using rubber grommets to protect battery cables is correct.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Battery box - securing battery
>
> I have a circa 1999 RV-6A kit with the Battery box in the cabin. It
> looks to me like the battery has to be restrained somehow or its
> terminals could short to the inside top of the battery battery box. The
> QB manual doesn't seem to mention battery installation.
>
> One could rig some sort of strap I suppose, or perhaps attach some
> blocks of wood or nylon to the inside of the box cover. They'd have to
> have just the right thickness to hold down the battery when the cover
> was secured.
>
> 1) What is the usual way of holding the battery out of harms way?
>
> 2) I suppose the battery cables will exit the box through large
> grommeted holes in the side? Is there a better/safer way to do this?
>
> Thanks.
>
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Trevor Davis" <tdavis(at)netactive.co.za> |
| Subject: | RV-List:Lasar ignition backup mode |
Thanks for the replies
My system does have the CHT probe (LC1011-01) with a dual point "K" probe
It also worked fine for the first 7-8 flights. It also "kicks in" when reset in
flight
as evidenced by the change in EGT's. Everything seems to work ok except that it's
reverting to "backup mode"
Trevor Davis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter Laurence <dr.laurence(at)mbdi.org> |
Try getting a side cutting dyke behind the head. This has worked for me.
Peter
> I was hoping someone could help me. I just started on my RV-7A. Just
> finished the Horizontal stabilizer and then noticed that I had a bad
rivet.
> The rivet is loose, but it won't come out. It's in a part that I can no
> longer get to the back of without drilling out a lot of rivets. If you
click
> on a link you can see a picture of it.
>
> Does anyone have any ideas?
>
> http://kane-king.com/rv7aproject/images/BadRivet.jpg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Cutter" <rcutter(at)cupower.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Off the shelf hardware and Spaceship One |
For LIVE coverage of the second attempt, tune your TV to the Science channel RIGHT
been doing interviews. I watched at 2 hour program on Discovery Channel last
night about the program.
Robert Cutter
RV4 upside down
----- Original Message -----
From: Donald Mei
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, October 04, 2004 12:13 AM
Subject: RV-List: Off the shelf hardware and Spaceship One
The Rutan boys have released videos of they're successful first X-prize
launch last week. I was watching it and noticed something really cool. I
heard that there was a Dynon EFIS on board but there it was in the video.
So I paused the video and holy @#$% what is that. Why, its a Garmin GPS 196
on the glare shield. NASA would use a $21,000,000 custom ring laser gyro
inertial system, but these guys used an off the shelf handheld GPS. Now I
just wonder where they mounted the antenna.
By the way, details, the video is here:
http://www.scaled.com/projects/tierone/video/X-Prize-flight-1.wmv
The scene where the Dynon and Garmin are visible is 1:30 into it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Off the shelf hardware and Spaceship One |
I watched that show too, it was excellent! It is on again this Thursday
evening on discovery...
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Cutter" <rcutter(at)cupower.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Off the shelf hardware and Spaceship One
For LIVE coverage of the second attempt, tune your TV to the Science channel
have been doing interviews. I watched at 2 hour program on Discovery
Channel last night about the program.
Robert Cutter
RV4 upside down
----- Original Message -----
From: Donald Mei
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, October 04, 2004 12:13 AM
Subject: RV-List: Off the shelf hardware and Spaceship One
The Rutan boys have released videos of they're successful first X-prize
launch last week. I was watching it and noticed something really cool. I
heard that there was a Dynon EFIS on board but there it was in the video.
So I paused the video and holy @#$% what is that. Why, its a Garmin GPS
196
on the glare shield. NASA would use a $21,000,000 custom ring laser gyro
inertial system, but these guys used an off the shelf handheld GPS. Now I
just wonder where they mounted the antenna.
By the way, details, the video is here:
http://www.scaled.com/projects/tierone/video/X-Prize-flight-1.wmv
The scene where the Dynon and Garmin are visible is 1:30 into it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jim & terri truitt <jimteri1(at)earthlink.net> |
I've searched the archives on this to no avail. My 8 canopy, like everyone elses,
has 1/4 to 1/2 inch opening around the bottom rear of the canopy skirt in
flight, letting cold air in. My canopy skirt fits as tight as any I have seen
when on the ground. All of the posts in the archives address this problem by
suggesting filling the gaps with weatherstriping, or venting the tail somehow.
My question is, Has anyone determined with any certainty, what causes the
gap around the skirt? Is it air pressure going out, coming in, or is the canopy
being pulled up by the airfoil shape? And , if the canopy is being pulled
up, has anyone considered a rear canopy hold-down device to prevent the skirt
from rising? I have an idea on how to hold the rear canopy down and still provide
emergency egress, but I'm not sure exactly what causes the gap. If the fiberglass
skirt is simply flexing outward, a hold down device won't help much.
And if the problem is the skirt flexing, can the fiberglass be strenghtened
to prevent the flex? I have noted some play in the fit between the nylon block
and the slider track, and this does allow some upward rise in the canopy.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bluecavu(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | XP-360 Ryton plastic sump availability- was Superior XP-IO360/FF |
sump question
From: Jerry2DT(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List:
Listers...
Hey All!
I'm sure I'm not the only one who would like to procure one of these sumps
for use on my non-XP-360 Lycosaur. Apparently Superior has decided not to offer
them on a parts basis -but only as part of a complete XP-360 engine. Well, I
want one. I know Superior has to support their product owners with spares -any
XP-360 owners out there willing to act as a source/middleman. Superior is
gonna have to realize sooner or later that this policy is futile. If we
homebuilders want something, we always find a way to get it. We have friends
everywhere...
Scott
RV-4 N4ZW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | XP-360 Ryton plastic sump availability- was Superior XP-IO360/FF |
sump question
Good Luck,
Superior is keeping a REALLY tight lock on those. Tried the same thing, and
basically they told the "owner" of the kit engine that if he wanted a
"replacement", he'd have to send the original one back. I also asked about
it at OSH and was flatly and rudely told "don't ask". Their attitude at the
OSH booth was enough to make sure I won't be buying any Superior parts soon,
even if they were cheaper. Turns out the ECI guys were much nicer, they
parts are as good or better, and they are cheaper too - can't beat that!
Now, that being said, I have it on good rumor that ECI will shortly (within
a couple months) start shipping a lightweight forward facing sump for Lyc's.
The difference is they decided to use Magnesium instead of plastic, and the
weight is supposed to be close.
I don't have any other details, other than what I heard from my ECI
informants.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
P.S., ECI has been GREAT to deal with, and I just purchased a new ECI engine
kit from Robbie Attaway for my -6. The $4,000.00 I saved over a Superior
bought me a new Hartzell C/S prop!!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bluecavu(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: XP-360 Ryton plastic sump availability- was Superior
XP-IO360/FF sump question
From: Jerry2DT(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List:
Listers...
Hey All!
I'm sure I'm not the only one who would like to procure one of these sumps
for use on my non-XP-360 Lycosaur. Apparently Superior has decided not to
offer
them on a parts basis -but only as part of a complete XP-360 engine. Well, I
want one. I know Superior has to support their product owners with
spares -any
XP-360 owners out there willing to act as a source/middleman. Superior is
gonna have to realize sooner or later that this policy is futile. If we
homebuilders want something, we always find a way to get it. We have friends
everywhere...
Scott
RV-4 N4ZW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "GMC" <gmcnutt(at)uniserve.com> |
| Subject: | Battery box - securing battery |
Hi Tom
See preview drawing 48A, there is a 3/4 X 3/4 angle with 1/8 UMHW strip
riveted to the inner top side of the battery box battery from shifting
upwards or touching the cover.
George McNutt
Langley BC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of thomas a.
sargent
Subject: RV-List: Battery box - securing battery
I have a circa 1999 RV-6A kit with the Battery box in the cabin. It
looks to me like the battery has to be restrained somehow or its
terminals could short to the inside top of the battery battery box. The
QB manual doesn't seem to mention battery installation.
One could rig some sort of strap I suppose, or perhaps attach some
blocks of wood or nylon to the inside of the box cover. They'd have to
have just the right thickness to hold down the battery when the cover
was secured.
1) What is the usual way of holding the battery out of harms way?
2) I suppose the battery cables will exit the box through large
grommeted holes in the side? Is there a better/safer way to do this?
Thanks.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Simmons" <ken(at)truckstop.com> |
| Subject: | XP-360 Ryton plastic sump availability- was Superior XP-IO360/FF |
sump question
Stein,
How are you defining "rudely" here? I talked to the Superior guy at Reno this year
and he was more than helpful. Of course I didn't ask him to sell me just the
sump, which is one of the major selling points of the XP-360. I think I might
get a little rude as well if someone asked to buy just the part that largely
makes their engine unique over the others.
I think anyone considering any kit engine should also check into insurance first.
If you have, please give us the details. I think this is very prudent after
one builder has had some recent trouble getting his New(not rebuilt) Aerosport
Power engine insured.
I guess it's all a matter of opinion.
Ken
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2004 12:13:53 -0500
>
>Good Luck,
>
>Superior is keeping a REALLY tight lock on those. Tried the same thing, and
>basically they told the "owner" of the kit engine that if he wanted a
>"replacement", he'd have to send the original one back. I also asked about
>it at OSH and was flatly and rudely told "don't ask". Their attitude at the
>OSH booth was enough to make sure I won't be buying any Superior parts soon,
>even if they were cheaper. Turns out the ECI guys were much nicer, they
>parts are as good or better, and they are cheaper too - can't beat that!
>
>Now, that being said, I have it on good rumor that ECI will shortly (within
>a couple months) start shipping a lightweight forward facing sump for Lyc's.
>The difference is they decided to use Magnesium instead of plastic, and the
>weight is supposed to be close.
>
>I don't have any other details, other than what I heard from my ECI
>informants.
>
>Cheers,
>Stein Bruch
>
>P.S., ECI has been GREAT to deal with, and I just purchased a new ECI engine
>kit from Robbie Attaway for my -6. The $4,000.00 I saved over a Superior
>bought me a new Hartzell C/S prop!!
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bluecavu(at)aol.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: XP-360 Ryton plastic sump availability- was Superior
>XP-IO360/FF sump question
>
>
>From: Jerry2DT(at)aol.com
>Subject: RV-List:
>
>
>Listers...
>
>Hey All!
>I'm sure I'm not the only one who would like to procure one of these sumps
>for use on my non-XP-360 Lycosaur. Apparently Superior has decided not to
>offer
>them on a parts basis -but only as part of a complete XP-360 engine. Well, I
>want one. I know Superior has to support their product owners with
>spares -any
>XP-360 owners out there willing to act as a source/middleman. Superior is
>gonna have to realize sooner or later that this policy is futile. If we
>homebuilders want something, we always find a way to get it. We have friends
>everywhere...
>
>Scott
>RV-4 N4ZW
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | XP-360 Ryton plastic sump availability- was Superior XP-IO360/FF |
sump question
Hi Ken,
Like you I had many past conversations with superior that were very good.
So good that I was still leaning towards selecting their engine. At OSH I
was still undecided about which engine; ECI or Superior to get.
So, I spent time at both booths asking them to honestly tell why I should
buy their engine, and please don't give me a line of "bull" because I've
been working with Lyco's for years. The ECI guys approached it like this:
They basically showed me the modifications they had made, and gave me some
good reasons. When asked about their products verses the "other guys", they
did't badmouth them at all, and in fact told me it was a good engine, but
the extra few thousand $$'s didn't really buy you anything additional.
When I approached the superior guys with the same method of inquiry, as soon
as I mentioned ECI they started telling me what a piece of crap (quote from
2 of the guys in the booth) the ECI engine was. Now I know that's not true,
I as well as MANY engine guys have been using ECI cylinders, etc... for
years and I'm currently flying behind a set of ECI cylinders. That was the
first turn off. A good company shouldn't have to bad mouth their
competition to get business, but instead rely on the strengths of their own
product. Next, I asked about buying some "parts", including the fwd facing
sump, and they just basically blew me off. After they found out I knew more
or as much about engines as they did, they didn't want to talk to me
anymore. When pressed about their historical reliability issues with the
older series Millenium cylinders, they also were quite distant and acted
like it didn't exist. That also is not true, ask any long time engine shop
about the older series Cylinders and you'll find most of them give you a ton
of examples.
Anyone who knows me can vouch that I'm not a rude and belligerent person (at
least not always), and if that was the case I don't think I would have had
such a drastic difference of experience between the two companies. The
marketing guys seemed to treat the "Lycoming challenged" ignorant people
very well (because they can), but as soon as you start mentioning their
competition or asking detailed questions, they got downright defensive.
In the end, I left with a very sour taste in my mouth, and not impressed
with the marketing guys they had in the booth (2 of them). I know for a
fact that their new engine is a good engine, as well as the ECI engine being
a good one too. I was just wondering what the extra $4,000.00 bought me in
a superior engine over an ECI (other than the plastic sump), and they
couldn't/wouldn't tell me. If they would have done a good job, I'd be
buying an SL-360 engine instead of the ECI. Good customer service means a
ton to me.
Regarding the insurance thing, I'll leave that to some other experts, but I
think that there have been a few false rumors flying around about people
"hearing about the guy......". Personally, it's not going to be a problem
for me (already checked with the insurance companies), so let's just leave
it at that. Maybe other people mileage will vary.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ken Simmons
Subject: RE: RV-List: XP-360 Ryton plastic sump availability- was
Superior XP-IO360/FF sump question
Stein,
How are you defining "rudely" here? I talked to the Superior guy at Reno
this year and he was more than helpful. Of course I didn't ask him to sell
me just the sump, which is one of the major selling points of the XP-360. I
think I might get a little rude as well if someone asked to buy just the
part that largely makes their engine unique over the others.
I think anyone considering any kit engine should also check into insurance
first. If you have, please give us the details. I think this is very prudent
after one builder has had some recent trouble getting his New(not rebuilt)
Aerosport Power engine insured.
I guess it's all a matter of opinion.
Ken
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2004 12:13:53 -0500
>
>Good Luck,
>
>Superior is keeping a REALLY tight lock on those. Tried the same thing, and
>basically they told the "owner" of the kit engine that if he wanted a
>"replacement", he'd have to send the original one back. I also asked about
>it at OSH and was flatly and rudely told "don't ask". Their attitude at
the
>OSH booth was enough to make sure I won't be buying any Superior parts
soon,
>even if they were cheaper. Turns out the ECI guys were much nicer, they
>parts are as good or better, and they are cheaper too - can't beat that!
>
>Now, that being said, I have it on good rumor that ECI will shortly (within
>a couple months) start shipping a lightweight forward facing sump for
Lyc's.
>The difference is they decided to use Magnesium instead of plastic, and the
>weight is supposed to be close.
>
>I don't have any other details, other than what I heard from my ECI
>informants.
>
>Cheers,
>Stein Bruch
>
>P.S., ECI has been GREAT to deal with, and I just purchased a new ECI
engine
>kit from Robbie Attaway for my -6. The $4,000.00 I saved over a Superior
>bought me a new Hartzell C/S prop!!
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bluecavu(at)aol.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: XP-360 Ryton plastic sump availability- was Superior
>XP-IO360/FF sump question
>
>
>From: Jerry2DT(at)aol.com
>Subject: RV-List:
>
>
>Listers...
>
>Hey All!
>I'm sure I'm not the only one who would like to procure one of these sumps
>for use on my non-XP-360 Lycosaur. Apparently Superior has decided not to
>offer
>them on a parts basis -but only as part of a complete XP-360 engine. Well,
I
>want one. I know Superior has to support their product owners with
>spares -any
>XP-360 owners out there willing to act as a source/middleman. Superior is
>gonna have to realize sooner or later that this policy is futile. If we
>homebuilders want something, we always find a way to get it. We have
friends
>everywhere...
>
>Scott
>RV-4 N4ZW
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Simmons" <ken(at)truckstop.com> |
| Subject: | XP-360 Ryton plastic sump availability- was Superior XP-IO360/FF |
sump question
Thanks for the reply Stein. I didn't intend my reply to be accusatory. I hope you
didn't take it that way. It's just that I'm very interested in this topic because
I'm close to purchasing the finish kit and engine and was leaning heavily
toward the Superior with the Ryton sump. I haven't talked to the ECI guys in
a while. I did talk to them at Reno last year and don't remember any impressions
one way or the other. I don't remember coming away saying that's the engine
I wanted. Sorry I can't be more specific than that. It's obvious now I need
to seriously rethink this.
I know you said lets leave it at that for the insurance, but I think that's an
important part of the equation. I'm certainly no expert, but I did hear it directly
from JT with the Vanguard program that the NEW Aerosport engines are not
covered, yet. They are working very hard to get them on the approved list. I
have no idea what their stance on kits are because I haven't asked. You've obviously
found a company that will insure the kit engine. That would be good information
to know. I think it would be fun and a good learning experience to build
my own engine (with some good advice of course), but I don't want to do that
at the expense of having an uninsurable aircraft.
Thanks again for the reply and I would be very interested in insurance companies
you've talked to about the kit.
Ken
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2004 14:32:05 -0500
>
>Hi Ken,
>
>Like you I had many past conversations with superior that were very good.
>So good that I was still leaning towards selecting their engine. At OSH I
>was still undecided about which engine; ECI or Superior to get.
>
>So, I spent time at both booths asking them to honestly tell why I should
>buy their engine, and please don't give me a line of "bull" because I've
>been working with Lyco's for years. The ECI guys approached it like this:
>They basically showed me the modifications they had made, and gave me some
>good reasons. When asked about their products verses the "other guys", they
>did't badmouth them at all, and in fact told me it was a good engine, but
>the extra few thousand $$'s didn't really buy you anything additional.
>
>When I approached the superior guys with the same method of inquiry, as soon
>as I mentioned ECI they started telling me what a piece of crap (quote from
>2 of the guys in the booth) the ECI engine was. Now I know that's not true,
>I as well as MANY engine guys have been using ECI cylinders, etc... for
>years and I'm currently flying behind a set of ECI cylinders. That was the
>first turn off. A good company shouldn't have to bad mouth their
>competition to get business, but instead rely on the strengths of their own
>product. Next, I asked about buying some "parts", including the fwd facing
>sump, and they just basically blew me off. After they found out I knew more
>or as much about engines as they did, they didn't want to talk to me
>anymore. When pressed about their historical reliability issues with the
>older series Millenium cylinders, they also were quite distant and acted
>like it didn't exist. That also is not true, ask any long time engine shop
>about the older series Cylinders and you'll find most of them give you a ton
>of examples.
>
>Anyone who knows me can vouch that I'm not a rude and belligerent person (at
>least not always), and if that was the case I don't think I would have had
>such a drastic difference of experience between the two companies. The
>marketing guys seemed to treat the "Lycoming challenged" ignorant people
>very well (because they can), but as soon as you start mentioning their
>competition or asking detailed questions, they got downright defensive.
>
>In the end, I left with a very sour taste in my mouth, and not impressed
>with the marketing guys they had in the booth (2 of them). I know for a
>fact that their new engine is a good engine, as well as the ECI engine being
>a good one too. I was just wondering what the extra $4,000.00 bought me in
>a superior engine over an ECI (other than the plastic sump), and they
>couldn't/wouldn't tell me. If they would have done a good job, I'd be
>buying an SL-360 engine instead of the ECI. Good customer service means a
>ton to me.
>
>Regarding the insurance thing, I'll leave that to some other experts, but I
>think that there have been a few false rumors flying around about people
>"hearing about the guy......". Personally, it's not going to be a problem
>for me (already checked with the insurance companies), so let's just leave
>it at that. Maybe other people mileage will vary.
>
>Cheers,
>Stein Bruch
>RV6's, Minneapolis.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ken Simmons
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: XP-360 Ryton plastic sump availability- was
>Superior XP-IO360/FF sump question
>
>
>Stein,
>
>How are you defining "rudely" here? I talked to the Superior guy at Reno
>this year and he was more than helpful. Of course I didn't ask him to sell
>me just the sump, which is one of the major selling points of the XP-360. I
>think I might get a little rude as well if someone asked to buy just the
>part that largely makes their engine unique over the others.
>
>I think anyone considering any kit engine should also check into insurance
>first. If you have, please give us the details. I think this is very prudent
>after one builder has had some recent trouble getting his New(not rebuilt)
>Aerosport Power engine insured.
>
>I guess it's all a matter of opinion.
>
>Ken
>
>
>---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
>From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
>Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2004 12:13:53 -0500
>
>>
>>Good Luck,
>>
>>Superior is keeping a REALLY tight lock on those. Tried the same thing, and
>>basically they told the "owner" of the kit engine that if he wanted a
>>"replacement", he'd have to send the original one back. I also asked about
>>it at OSH and was flatly and rudely told "don't ask". Their attitude at
>the
>>OSH booth was enough to make sure I won't be buying any Superior parts
>soon,
>>even if they were cheaper. Turns out the ECI guys were much nicer, they
>>parts are as good or better, and they are cheaper too - can't beat that!
>>
>>Now, that being said, I have it on good rumor that ECI will shortly (within
>>a couple months) start shipping a lightweight forward facing sump for
>Lyc's.
>>The difference is they decided to use Magnesium instead of plastic, and the
>>weight is supposed to be close.
>>
>>I don't have any other details, other than what I heard from my ECI
>>informants.
>>
>>Cheers,
>>Stein Bruch
>>
>>P.S., ECI has been GREAT to deal with, and I just purchased a new ECI
>engine
>>kit from Robbie Attaway for my -6. The $4,000.00 I saved over a Superior
>>bought me a new Hartzell C/S prop!!
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bluecavu(at)aol.com
>>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: RV-List: XP-360 Ryton plastic sump availability- was Superior
>>XP-IO360/FF sump question
>>
>>
>>
>>From: Jerry2DT(at)aol.com
>>Subject: RV-List:
>>
>>
>>
>>Listers...
>>
>>Hey All!
>>I'm sure I'm not the only one who would like to procure one of these sumps
>>for use on my non-XP-360 Lycosaur. Apparently Superior has decided not to
>>offer
>>them on a parts basis -but only as part of a complete XP-360 engine. Well,
>I
>>want one. I know Superior has to support their product owners with
>>spares -any
>>XP-360 owners out there willing to act as a source/middleman. Superior is
>>gonna have to realize sooner or later that this policy is futile. If we
>>homebuilders want something, we always find a way to get it. We have
>friends
>>everywhere...
>>
>>Scott
>>RV-4 N4ZW
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ray sheffield" <rv8a(at)csranet.com> |
| Subject: | propeller for sale |
70cm-78 sensenich propeller for sale less than 200 hrs.
complete with spinner, spacer, bolts, and plates. For a lycoming 0-320 160
hp.
$1500 like new
803-663-9974 Jerry Berger south carolina
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Harness shootout - Hooker vs. Schroth |
Hi,
I'm trying to decide on the seat belts I'll use on my RV8,
and the Hooker and the Schroth are on my short list.
The Hooker w/rotary buckle (340USD/seat) is much cheaper
than the Schroth (470USD front, 495USD rear). Though
I almost never try to economize on safety, I'm trying to
figure out why the Schroth is so much more. If they are
better/safer, I'll buy them, but it's not clear to me
that that is the case. Anyone have any info on this?
http://www.karasengineering.com/Experimental%20List%20page.htm
http://www.hookerharness.com/price_list.htm
Thanks,
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "steve zicree" <szicree(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: XP-360 Ryton plastic sump availability- was Superior XP-IO360/FF |
sump question
I keep seeing a $4000 dollar difference being mentioned between the Superior
and the ECI? I'm not finding this difference in their quoted prices. What
gives?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: XP-360 Ryton plastic sump availability- was Superior
XP-IO360/FF sump question
>
> Hi Ken,
>
> Like you I had many past conversations with superior that were very good.
> So good that I was still leaning towards selecting their engine. At OSH I
> was still undecided about which engine; ECI or Superior to get.
>
> So, I spent time at both booths asking them to honestly tell why I should
> buy their engine, and please don't give me a line of "bull" because I've
> been working with Lyco's for years. The ECI guys approached it like this:
> They basically showed me the modifications they had made, and gave me some
> good reasons. When asked about their products verses the "other guys",
they
> did't badmouth them at all, and in fact told me it was a good engine, but
> the extra few thousand $$'s didn't really buy you anything additional.
>
> When I approached the superior guys with the same method of inquiry, as
soon
> as I mentioned ECI they started telling me what a piece of crap (quote
from
> 2 of the guys in the booth) the ECI engine was. Now I know that's not
true,
> I as well as MANY engine guys have been using ECI cylinders, etc... for
> years and I'm currently flying behind a set of ECI cylinders. That was
the
> first turn off. A good company shouldn't have to bad mouth their
> competition to get business, but instead rely on the strengths of their
own
> product. Next, I asked about buying some "parts", including the fwd
facing
> sump, and they just basically blew me off. After they found out I knew
more
> or as much about engines as they did, they didn't want to talk to me
> anymore. When pressed about their historical reliability issues with the
> older series Millenium cylinders, they also were quite distant and acted
> like it didn't exist. That also is not true, ask any long time engine
shop
> about the older series Cylinders and you'll find most of them give you a
ton
> of examples.
>
> Anyone who knows me can vouch that I'm not a rude and belligerent person
(at
> least not always), and if that was the case I don't think I would have had
> such a drastic difference of experience between the two companies. The
> marketing guys seemed to treat the "Lycoming challenged" ignorant people
> very well (because they can), but as soon as you start mentioning their
> competition or asking detailed questions, they got downright defensive.
>
> In the end, I left with a very sour taste in my mouth, and not impressed
> with the marketing guys they had in the booth (2 of them). I know for a
> fact that their new engine is a good engine, as well as the ECI engine
being
> a good one too. I was just wondering what the extra $4,000.00 bought me
in
> a superior engine over an ECI (other than the plastic sump), and they
> couldn't/wouldn't tell me. If they would have done a good job, I'd be
> buying an SL-360 engine instead of the ECI. Good customer service means a
> ton to me.
>
> Regarding the insurance thing, I'll leave that to some other experts, but
I
> think that there have been a few false rumors flying around about people
> "hearing about the guy......". Personally, it's not going to be a problem
> for me (already checked with the insurance companies), so let's just leave
> it at that. Maybe other people mileage will vary.
>
> Cheers,
> Stein Bruch
> RV6's, Minneapolis.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ken Simmons
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: XP-360 Ryton plastic sump availability- was
> Superior XP-IO360/FF sump question
>
>
> Stein,
>
> How are you defining "rudely" here? I talked to the Superior guy at Reno
> this year and he was more than helpful. Of course I didn't ask him to sell
> me just the sump, which is one of the major selling points of the XP-360.
I
> think I might get a little rude as well if someone asked to buy just the
> part that largely makes their engine unique over the others.
>
> I think anyone considering any kit engine should also check into insurance
> first. If you have, please give us the details. I think this is very
prudent
> after one builder has had some recent trouble getting his New(not rebuilt)
> Aerosport Power engine insured.
>
> I guess it's all a matter of opinion.
>
> Ken
>
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
> From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
> Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2004 12:13:53 -0500
>
> >
> >Good Luck,
> >
> >Superior is keeping a REALLY tight lock on those. Tried the same thing,
and
> >basically they told the "owner" of the kit engine that if he wanted a
> >"replacement", he'd have to send the original one back. I also asked
about
> >it at OSH and was flatly and rudely told "don't ask". Their attitude at
> the
> >OSH booth was enough to make sure I won't be buying any Superior parts
> soon,
> >even if they were cheaper. Turns out the ECI guys were much nicer, they
> >parts are as good or better, and they are cheaper too - can't beat that!
> >
> >Now, that being said, I have it on good rumor that ECI will shortly
(within
> >a couple months) start shipping a lightweight forward facing sump for
> Lyc's.
> >The difference is they decided to use Magnesium instead of plastic, and
the
> >weight is supposed to be close.
> >
> >I don't have any other details, other than what I heard from my ECI
> >informants.
> >
> >Cheers,
> >Stein Bruch
> >
> >P.S., ECI has been GREAT to deal with, and I just purchased a new ECI
> engine
> >kit from Robbie Attaway for my -6. The $4,000.00 I saved over a Superior
> >bought me a new Hartzell C/S prop!!
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> >[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bluecavu(at)aol.com
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RV-List: XP-360 Ryton plastic sump availability- was Superior
> >XP-IO360/FF sump question
> >
> >
> >
> >From: Jerry2DT(at)aol.com
> >Subject: RV-List:
> >
> >
> >
> >Listers...
> >
> >Hey All!
> >I'm sure I'm not the only one who would like to procure one of these
sumps
> >for use on my non-XP-360 Lycosaur. Apparently Superior has decided not to
> >offer
> >them on a parts basis -but only as part of a complete XP-360 engine.
Well,
> I
> >want one. I know Superior has to support their product owners with
> >spares -any
> >XP-360 owners out there willing to act as a source/middleman. Superior is
> >gonna have to realize sooner or later that this policy is futile. If we
> >homebuilders want something, we always find a way to get it. We have
> friends
> >everywhere...
> >
> >Scott
> >RV-4 N4ZW
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
I checked the archives did not find the answer. My fuel pressure varies
between 6 and 0 with no consistency. Why does it do this and should I be
doing something about it?
Thanks,
John Furey RV6A O-320
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "steve zicree" <szicree(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: XP-360 Ryton plastic sump availability- was Superior XP-IO360/FF |
sump question
I keep seeing a $4000 dollar difference being mentioned between the Superior
and the ECI? I'm not finding this difference in their quoted prices. What
gives?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: XP-360 Ryton plastic sump availability- was Superior
XP-IO360/FF sump question
>
> Hi Ken,
>
> Like you I had many past conversations with superior that were very good.
> So good that I was still leaning towards selecting their engine. At OSH I
> was still undecided about which engine; ECI or Superior to get.
>
> So, I spent time at both booths asking them to honestly tell why I should
> buy their engine, and please don't give me a line of "bull" because I've
> been working with Lyco's for years. The ECI guys approached it like this:
> They basically showed me the modifications they had made, and gave me some
> good reasons. When asked about their products verses the "other guys",
they
> did't badmouth them at all, and in fact told me it was a good engine, but
> the extra few thousand $$'s didn't really buy you anything additional.
>
> When I approached the superior guys with the same method of inquiry, as
soon
> as I mentioned ECI they started telling me what a piece of crap (quote
from
> 2 of the guys in the booth) the ECI engine was. Now I know that's not
true,
> I as well as MANY engine guys have been using ECI cylinders, etc... for
> years and I'm currently flying behind a set of ECI cylinders. That was
the
> first turn off. A good company shouldn't have to bad mouth their
> competition to get business, but instead rely on the strengths of their
own
> product. Next, I asked about buying some "parts", including the fwd
facing
> sump, and they just basically blew me off. After they found out I knew
more
> or as much about engines as they did, they didn't want to talk to me
> anymore. When pressed about their historical reliability issues with the
> older series Millenium cylinders, they also were quite distant and acted
> like it didn't exist. That also is not true, ask any long time engine
shop
> about the older series Cylinders and you'll find most of them give you a
ton
> of examples.
>
> Anyone who knows me can vouch that I'm not a rude and belligerent person
(at
> least not always), and if that was the case I don't think I would have had
> such a drastic difference of experience between the two companies. The
> marketing guys seemed to treat the "Lycoming challenged" ignorant people
> very well (because they can), but as soon as you start mentioning their
> competition or asking detailed questions, they got downright defensive.
>
> In the end, I left with a very sour taste in my mouth, and not impressed
> with the marketing guys they had in the booth (2 of them). I know for a
> fact that their new engine is a good engine, as well as the ECI engine
being
> a good one too. I was just wondering what the extra $4,000.00 bought me
in
> a superior engine over an ECI (other than the plastic sump), and they
> couldn't/wouldn't tell me. If they would have done a good job, I'd be
> buying an SL-360 engine instead of the ECI. Good customer service means a
> ton to me.
>
> Regarding the insurance thing, I'll leave that to some other experts, but
I
> think that there have been a few false rumors flying around about people
> "hearing about the guy......". Personally, it's not going to be a problem
> for me (already checked with the insurance companies), so let's just leave
> it at that. Maybe other people mileage will vary.
>
> Cheers,
> Stein Bruch
> RV6's, Minneapolis.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ken Simmons
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: XP-360 Ryton plastic sump availability- was
> Superior XP-IO360/FF sump question
>
>
> Stein,
>
> How are you defining "rudely" here? I talked to the Superior guy at Reno
> this year and he was more than helpful. Of course I didn't ask him to sell
> me just the sump, which is one of the major selling points of the XP-360.
I
> think I might get a little rude as well if someone asked to buy just the
> part that largely makes their engine unique over the others.
>
> I think anyone considering any kit engine should also check into insurance
> first. If you have, please give us the details. I think this is very
prudent
> after one builder has had some recent trouble getting his New(not rebuilt)
> Aerosport Power engine insured.
>
> I guess it's all a matter of opinion.
>
> Ken
>
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
> From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
> Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2004 12:13:53 -0500
>
> >
> >Good Luck,
> >
> >Superior is keeping a REALLY tight lock on those. Tried the same thing,
and
> >basically they told the "owner" of the kit engine that if he wanted a
> >"replacement", he'd have to send the original one back. I also asked
about
> >it at OSH and was flatly and rudely told "don't ask". Their attitude at
> the
> >OSH booth was enough to make sure I won't be buying any Superior parts
> soon,
> >even if they were cheaper. Turns out the ECI guys were much nicer, they
> >parts are as good or better, and they are cheaper too - can't beat that!
> >
> >Now, that being said, I have it on good rumor that ECI will shortly
(within
> >a couple months) start shipping a lightweight forward facing sump for
> Lyc's.
> >The difference is they decided to use Magnesium instead of plastic, and
the
> >weight is supposed to be close.
> >
> >I don't have any other details, other than what I heard from my ECI
> >informants.
> >
> >Cheers,
> >Stein Bruch
> >
> >P.S., ECI has been GREAT to deal with, and I just purchased a new ECI
> engine
> >kit from Robbie Attaway for my -6. The $4,000.00 I saved over a Superior
> >bought me a new Hartzell C/S prop!!
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> >[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bluecavu(at)aol.com
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RV-List: XP-360 Ryton plastic sump availability- was Superior
> >XP-IO360/FF sump question
> >
> >
> >
> >From: Jerry2DT(at)aol.com
> >Subject: RV-List:
> >
> >
> >
> >Listers...
> >
> >Hey All!
> >I'm sure I'm not the only one who would like to procure one of these
sumps
> >for use on my non-XP-360 Lycosaur. Apparently Superior has decided not to
> >offer
> >them on a parts basis -but only as part of a complete XP-360 engine.
Well,
> I
> >want one. I know Superior has to support their product owners with
> >spares -any
> >XP-360 owners out there willing to act as a source/middleman. Superior is
> >gonna have to realize sooner or later that this policy is futile. If we
> >homebuilders want something, we always find a way to get it. We have
> friends
> >everywhere...
> >
> >Scott
> >RV-4 N4ZW
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BPA" <bpa(at)bpaengines.com> |
| Subject: | XP-360 Ryton plastic sump availability- was Superior XP-IO360/FF |
sump question
Ken -
I have seen your recent thread on engine selection for your RV and wanted to
invite you to our website, www.bpaengines.com, to look at Lycoming's
IO-390-X kit engine.
We are the sole supplier of this engine and have sold several to the RV
crowd, with excellent feedback. Dick Martin has one in his RV-8 and loves
the 210 hp.
Please feel free to drop us a note or give us a call if you'd like any
additional information.
Regards,
Allen Barrett
Barrett Performance Aircraft, Inc.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ken Simmons
Subject: RE: RV-List: XP-360 Ryton plastic sump availability- was Superior
XP-IO360/FF sump question
Thanks for the reply Stein. I didn't intend my reply to be accusatory. I
hope you didn't take it that way. It's just that I'm very interested in this
topic because I'm close to purchasing the finish kit and engine and was
leaning heavily toward the Superior with the Ryton sump. I haven't talked to
the ECI guys in a while. I did talk to them at Reno last year and don't
remember any impressions one way or the other. I don't remember coming away
saying that's the engine I wanted. Sorry I can't be more specific than that.
It's obvious now I need to seriously rethink this.
I know you said lets leave it at that for the insurance, but I think that's
an important part of the equation. I'm certainly no expert, but I did hear
it directly from JT with the Vanguard program that the NEW Aerosport engines
are not covered, yet. They are working very hard to get them on the approved
list. I have no idea what their stance on kits are because I haven't asked.
You've obviously found a company that will insure the kit engine. That would
be good information to know. I think it would be fun and a good learning
experience to build my own engine (with some good advice of course), but I
don't want to do that at the expense of having an uninsurable aircraft.
Thanks again for the reply and I would be very interested in insurance
companies you've talked to about the kit.
Ken
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2004 14:32:05 -0500
>
>Hi Ken,
>
>Like you I had many past conversations with superior that were very good.
>So good that I was still leaning towards selecting their engine. At OSH I
>was still undecided about which engine; ECI or Superior to get.
>
>So, I spent time at both booths asking them to honestly tell why I should
>buy their engine, and please don't give me a line of "bull" because I've
>been working with Lyco's for years. The ECI guys approached it like this:
>They basically showed me the modifications they had made, and gave me some
>good reasons. When asked about their products verses the "other guys",
they
>did't badmouth them at all, and in fact told me it was a good engine, but
>the extra few thousand $$'s didn't really buy you anything additional.
>
>When I approached the superior guys with the same method of inquiry, as
soon
>as I mentioned ECI they started telling me what a piece of crap (quote from
>2 of the guys in the booth) the ECI engine was. Now I know that's not
true,
>I as well as MANY engine guys have been using ECI cylinders, etc... for
>years and I'm currently flying behind a set of ECI cylinders. That was the
>first turn off. A good company shouldn't have to bad mouth their
>competition to get business, but instead rely on the strengths of their own
>product. Next, I asked about buying some "parts", including the fwd
facing
>sump, and they just basically blew me off. After they found out I knew
more
>or as much about engines as they did, they didn't want to talk to me
>anymore. When pressed about their historical reliability issues with the
>older series Millenium cylinders, they also were quite distant and acted
>like it didn't exist. That also is not true, ask any long time engine shop
>about the older series Cylinders and you'll find most of them give you a
ton
>of examples.
>
>Anyone who knows me can vouch that I'm not a rude and belligerent person
(at
>least not always), and if that was the case I don't think I would have had
>such a drastic difference of experience between the two companies. The
>marketing guys seemed to treat the "Lycoming challenged" ignorant people
>very well (because they can), but as soon as you start mentioning their
>competition or asking detailed questions, they got downright defensive.
>
>In the end, I left with a very sour taste in my mouth, and not impressed
>with the marketing guys they had in the booth (2 of them). I know for a
>fact that their new engine is a good engine, as well as the ECI engine
being
>a good one too. I was just wondering what the extra $4,000.00 bought me in
>a superior engine over an ECI (other than the plastic sump), and they
>couldn't/wouldn't tell me. If they would have done a good job, I'd be
>buying an SL-360 engine instead of the ECI. Good customer service means a
>ton to me.
>
>Regarding the insurance thing, I'll leave that to some other experts, but I
>think that there have been a few false rumors flying around about people
>"hearing about the guy......". Personally, it's not going to be a problem
>for me (already checked with the insurance companies), so let's just leave
>it at that. Maybe other people mileage will vary.
>
>Cheers,
>Stein Bruch
>RV6's, Minneapolis.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ken Simmons
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: XP-360 Ryton plastic sump availability- was
>Superior XP-IO360/FF sump question
>
>
>Stein,
>
>How are you defining "rudely" here? I talked to the Superior guy at Reno
>this year and he was more than helpful. Of course I didn't ask him to sell
>me just the sump, which is one of the major selling points of the XP-360. I
>think I might get a little rude as well if someone asked to buy just the
>part that largely makes their engine unique over the others.
>
>I think anyone considering any kit engine should also check into insurance
>first. If you have, please give us the details. I think this is very
prudent
>after one builder has had some recent trouble getting his New(not rebuilt)
>Aerosport Power engine insured.
>
>I guess it's all a matter of opinion.
>
>Ken
>
>
>---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
>From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
>Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2004 12:13:53 -0500
>
>>
>>Good Luck,
>>
>>Superior is keeping a REALLY tight lock on those. Tried the same thing,
and
>>basically they told the "owner" of the kit engine that if he wanted a
>>"replacement", he'd have to send the original one back. I also asked
about
>>it at OSH and was flatly and rudely told "don't ask". Their attitude at
>the
>>OSH booth was enough to make sure I won't be buying any Superior parts
>soon,
>>even if they were cheaper. Turns out the ECI guys were much nicer, they
>>parts are as good or better, and they are cheaper too - can't beat that!
>>
>>Now, that being said, I have it on good rumor that ECI will shortly
(within
>>a couple months) start shipping a lightweight forward facing sump for
>Lyc's.
>>The difference is they decided to use Magnesium instead of plastic, and
the
>>weight is supposed to be close.
>>
>>I don't have any other details, other than what I heard from my ECI
>>informants.
>>
>>Cheers,
>>Stein Bruch
>>
>>P.S., ECI has been GREAT to deal with, and I just purchased a new ECI
>engine
>>kit from Robbie Attaway for my -6. The $4,000.00 I saved over a Superior
>>bought me a new Hartzell C/S prop!!
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bluecavu(at)aol.com
>>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: RV-List: XP-360 Ryton plastic sump availability- was Superior
>>XP-IO360/FF sump question
>>
>>
>>
>>From: Jerry2DT(at)aol.com
>>Subject: RV-List:
>>
>>
>>
>>Listers...
>>
>>Hey All!
>>I'm sure I'm not the only one who would like to procure one of these sumps
>>for use on my non-XP-360 Lycosaur. Apparently Superior has decided not to
>>offer
>>them on a parts basis -but only as part of a complete XP-360 engine. Well,
>I
>>want one. I know Superior has to support their product owners with
>>spares -any
>>XP-360 owners out there willing to act as a source/middleman. Superior is
>>gonna have to realize sooner or later that this policy is futile. If we
>>homebuilders want something, we always find a way to get it. We have
>friends
>>everywhere...
>>
>>Scott
>>RV-4 N4ZW
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Suzuki Samari alternator, 55 amps, lifetime warranty.
Autozone. Go online and save $30. I paid $96 plus $50 core charge delivered.
Wally Hunt
RV-4 Finishing Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Pressure |
I would check the suction side of the fuel system.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com>
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Pressure
>
> I checked the archives did not find the answer. My fuel pressure varies
> between 6 and 0 with no consistency. Why does it do this and should I be
> doing something about it?
>
> Thanks,
> John Furey RV6A O-320
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dale Mitchell <dfm4290(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Harness shootout - Hooker vs. Schroth |
You might want to check out crow harness.
Here is a link.
I have not used them but it looks like an interesting
option.
http://www.magnumforceracing.com/crowharness.asp
Dale
--- Mickey Coggins wrote:
>
>
> Hi,
>
> I'm trying to decide on the seat belts I'll use on
> my RV8,
> and the Hooker and the Schroth are on my short list.
>
>
> The Hooker w/rotary buckle (340USD/seat) is much
> cheaper
> than the Schroth (470USD front, 495USD rear).
> Though
> I almost never try to economize on safety, I'm
> trying to
> figure out why the Schroth is so much more. If they
> are
> better/safer, I'll buy them, but it's not clear to
> me
> that that is the case. Anyone have any info on
> this?
>
>
http://www.karasengineering.com/Experimental%20List%20page.htm
>
> http://www.hookerharness.com/price_list.htm
>
> Thanks,
> Mickey
>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "steve zicree" <szicree(at)adelphia.net> |
I've personally been told by my agent at NationAir that my aircraft would not be
covered with the SL engine, but the XP is fine. Lycomings are fine also. Whether
or not the ECI is covered is up to the insurer, whoever that might be. I
did not hear this from a guy who heard it from a guy, etc. , but rather, first
hand from my agent.
I am certainly not claiming one engine to be better than another, but unfortuntely
the insurance companies are making the rules here. Therefore we really should
consult with them BEFORE the fact.
One more point: I don't think the law compels a person to insure their aircraft,
but if it's held as collateral on a loan the bank will require full coverage.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Harness shootout - Hooker vs. Schroth |
Hi Mickey,
We have Hooker's 5 point with the schroth buckle. Great belts and Hooker has
been great to deal with when we asked them to change the pad colors. We
purchased them from team rocket and they were considerably less expensive
than the ones from Schroth. I agree with you about not short changing
yourself on safety.
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A (300+hours)
>From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Harness shootout - Hooker vs. Schroth
>Date: Mon, 04 Oct 2004 22:20:01 +0200
>
>
>Hi,
>
>I'm trying to decide on the seat belts I'll use on my RV8,
>and the Hooker and the Schroth are on my short list.
>
>The Hooker w/rotary buckle (340USD/seat) is much cheaper
>than the Schroth (470USD front, 495USD rear). Though
>I almost never try to economize on safety, I'm trying to
>figure out why the Schroth is so much more. If they are
>better/safer, I'll buy them, but it's not clear to me
>that that is the case. Anyone have any info on this?
>
>http://www.karasengineering.com/Experimental%20List%20page.htm
>
>http://www.hookerharness.com/price_list.htm
>
>Thanks,
>Mickey
>
>--
>Mickey Coggins
>http://www.rv8.ch/
>#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | I've finally got my XCOM 760 Radio |
John,
How's the radio holding out?
Anyone else get one of these?
----Original Message Follows----
From: <John.Morrissey(at)csiro.au>
Subject: RV-List: I've finally got my XCOM 760 Radio
Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2004 07:11:15 +1000
Hi All,
When I got home last night I was pleased to see that my XCOM 760 radio
had finally arrived (Serial Number 16). Despite the late hour I hade the
unit hooked up to my base station aerial within an hour or two and all
appears well. Had a couple of conversations with a couple of late night
commuters and they reported good reception. I found the controls to be
reasonably logical and easy to use. Off to the plane on the weekend for
some air trials.
Cheers
John Morrissey
Check out Election 2004 for up-to-date election news, plus voter tools and
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick Jordan" <mkejrj(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Superior XP-IO360/FF sump question |
Jerry,
I replied off list , directly to your address , with my installation of
the throttle mechanism as you requested. The EMail was returned undelivered.
I have several photos of the installation as well as a crude drawing of
the mechanism which you may be interested in.
Can you give me a working EMail or Snail Mail address ?
Best wishes,
Dick Jordan
RV8A Finishing
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jerry2DT(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Superior XP-IO360/FF sump question
>
>
> Listers...
>
> I have a Superior XP-IO360 with the new Ryton plastic forward facing
sump.
> If anyone has the same setup, and has pix to share, I would be curious to
see
> where/how the bracket for throttle cable was mounted. Van's bracket
doesn't
> seem to fit. Email off list if you wish at _jerry2dt(at)aol.com_
> (mailto:jerry2dt(at)aol.com) .
>
> Thanx.
>
> Jerry Cochran
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Off the shelf hardware and Spaceship One |
Terry Williams wrote:
>
> I could be wrong, but this doesn't look like anything that is available
> from Dynon. Maybe you know different. Dynon hasn't admitted anything
> about being a part of the Tier-One project.
I believe they have:
http://www.dynondevelopment.com/docs/spacenews1.html
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | XP-360 Ryton plastic sump availability- was Superior XP-IO360/FF |
sump question
Well, during my recent search for an engine, the cheapest I could find a
Superior engine was around $19-22+K range. ECI had a special at OSH with
engines starting at about $13-15K, and yes you also can get the ECI engines
assembled for next to nothing with the same warranties as the superior
engines. I'm building up my own, but for those choosing a pre-built engine,
they still come out cheaper, even with the accessories and warranties. Once
again, I'm not bashing the superior engine, just a few of their marketing
folks - Their engine is a fine engine, and I have nothing ill to say about
the engine (only the company/people).
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of steve zicree
Subject: Re: RV-List: XP-360 Ryton plastic sump availability- was
Superior XP-IO360/FF sump question
I keep seeing a $4000 dollar difference being mentioned between the Superior
and the ECI? I'm not finding this difference in their quoted prices. What
gives?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)direcpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Off the shelf hardware and Spaceship One |
It appears to me that a dynon is mounted up high above the primary
flight display. I pointed this out to my wife last night while watching
the 2 hour special on Discovery. I don't think this was there on
Melville's first flight before Oshkosh when the primary display blinked
out.
GZ
Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
>Terry Williams wrote:
>
>
>>
>>I could be wrong, but this doesn't look like anything that is available
>>from Dynon. Maybe you know different. Dynon hasn't admitted anything
>>about being a part of the Tier-One project.
>>
>>
>
>
>I believe they have:
>
>http://www.dynondevelopment.com/docs/spacenews1.html
>
>Sam Buchanan
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Thorne" <rv7a(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: XP-360 Ryton plastic sump availability- was Superior XP-IO360/FF |
sump question
Stein, sometimes sales reps like that are a blessing in disguise if a
certain fast glass co. in Oregon didn't have a couple of reps like that at
OSH in '99 I would be on a different list. I'm glad I'm here.
Jim Thorne
7A-QB
CHD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Cement rubber to canopy |
hello all,
I want to cement a rubber moulding to the front of my slider canopy
(RV-8) to make a rain seal. What glue is available that won't craze the
plastic? Since its a quickbuild I didn't need Proseal and don't have any
about the shop.
Jim Bean
"Finishing"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nauga" <nauga(at)brick.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Pressure |
John Furey wrote:
> I checked the archives did not find the answer. My fuel pressure varies
> between 6 and 0 with no consistency. Why does it do this and should I be
> doing something about it?
Two possibilities: A sensor/gauge problem,
or a real fuel pressure problem. A lot of people here
(myself included) have noticed fuel pressure fluctuations
while maneuvering. Sandy at Grand Rapids,
who supplied my pressure transducer, told me I could fix this
by opening up the transducer vent (what she said was more
along the lines of "punch some holes in the white stuff
behind the vent screen." I did this and don't really see
a difference.
My biggest fuel pressure fluctuations were apparently temperature
related - I had a fuel line run too close to an exhaust pipe.
I'd regularly see fuel pressure vary from 5 to 0 psi with no
change in engine operation (electric fuel pump off). Turning the
electric pump on would steady it out at ~4 psi. I moved the fuel
line by bypassing the gascolator(*) and it's now steady at 4-5psi
electric pump on or off unless I'm maneuvering, when it still
drops as low as zero (the engine keeps running) unless the boost
pump is on. The engine runs steady (well, aside from the bad mag
someone *finally* found) regardless of fuel pressure indications.
(*) I think it's temperature related, not gascolator related, but
bypassing the gascolator was the only way I could stay well clear
of the exhaust given the amazingly small firewall space available
on my RV-4.
Hope this helps,
Dave Hyde
nauga(at)brick.net
RV-4 in flight test, mechanic says it's 'up' again.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuselage Order Follow-up |
| From: | "" <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com> |
All,
As a follow-up to my earlier question...would anyone be able to point me to or
send me a picture of the manual aileron and manual flap controls? I'm still trying
to visualize what they look like and where they are located.
Thanks in advance,
Scott
7A Wings
www.scottsrv7a.com
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "" <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com> |
All,
I just got a quote back from Falcon, and I thought I would share it for any interested.
Details as follows:
- RV7A
- $60,000 hull value
- $0 Motion, $0 Not-in-motion deductibles
- 1,000,000/100,000 Liability
- Total premium - $1,776/yr
I am instrument rated and have 300 hrs TT (0 make and model).
THanks,
Scott
www.scottsrv7a.com
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Order Follow-up |
tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com wrote:
>
>
> All,
>
> As a follow-up to my earlier question...would anyone be able to point
> me to or send me a picture of the manual aileron and manual flap
> controls? I'm still trying to visualize what they look like and
> where they are located.
Scott, check out the last two photos on this page for the manual aileron
trim system:
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/fuse9.html
The trim works perfectly and contrary to what you might think, the
springs don't alter the feel of the ailerons.
And here are the manual flaps (mid-page):
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/fuse7.html
In this case, the electric system is superior to the manual flaps.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | New/Used Propeller page added to website |
Hi All,
I've added a new page on my website for new and used propellers being
offered for sale.
If you have a propeller you would like to sell; just send me an Email of
what you want listed.
If you are looking for a propeller, you can check the propeller page just
after antenna's under Products. There is already an overhauled Hartzell CS
propeller for a Lycoming 320 and a new Hartzell CS propeller for a Lycoming 360
listed.
_www.lessdrag.com_ (http://www.lessdrag.com/)
Regards,
Jim Ayers
Less Drag products, Inc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Glasgow" <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Hi Jim,
I believe the problem is due to air not moving from front to back through the entire
fuselage. Some how the air backs up around the aft area of the canopy,
then lift produced by the canopy creates a low pressure area and there is a tendency
to lift the canopy at the back.
Early on I devised a set of louvers that I installed on each aft fuselage inspection
panels and I have never had a problem since I started flying Cappy=92s Toy.
The louvers were stainless steel purchased form West Marine. They fit perfectly
and I just riveted them to the inspection panels and later painted them.
Steve Glasgow
RV 8, N123GS, Cappy's Toy
140 Hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bobby Hester" <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Order Follow-up |
> -----Original Message-----
> From: "" <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2004 23:09 (CDT)
> Subject: RV-List: Fuselage Order Follow-up
>
>
>
> All,
>
> As a follow-up to my earlier question...would anyone be able to point me to
> or send me a picture of the manual aileron and manual flap controls? I'm
> still trying to visualize what they look like and where they are located.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Scott
> 7A Wings
> www.scottsrv7a.com
>
Since your building a 7A I thought you might mean manual elevator trim not flaps.
If so go here:
http://members.hopkinsville.net/bhester/FuseAssyPg4.htm
-------
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
RV7A web site: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Off Topic - XPrize |
Hi,
Has anyone seen a number for what it would cost to build
a second SpaceShipOne and a second White Knight, now that
the investment in R&D has been done? Also, what does it
cost in fuel and other consumables for each flight?
Thanks,
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
Talked to the winning biplane racer guy at Reno air races, he said to make
sure you have no air flowing through the fuse. Seal up the entire fuse as
best as possible. I think this is a better idea than letting the air out.
Just the opposite of the previous post, both ideas will work, take your pick.
>
>Hi Jim,
>
>
>I believe the problem is due to air not moving from front to back through
>the entire fuselage. Some how the air backs up around the aft area of the
>canopy, then lift produced by the canopy creates a low pressure area and
>there is a tendency to lift the canopy at the back.
>
>
>Early on I devised a set of louvers that I installed on each aft fuselage
>inspection panels and I have never had a problem since I started flying
>Cappy=92s Toy. The louvers were stainless steel purchased form West
>Marine. They fit perfectly and I just riveted them to the inspection
>panels and later painted them.
>
>
>Steve Glasgow
>
>RV 8, N123GS, Cappy's Toy
>
>140 Hours
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Off Topic - XPrize |
The only comment I heard was that a "commerical" verison is allready under
construction and would be the one that Rutan & Allen, and anyone with the
big bucks, would ride in. Nothing said if a "new" White Knight would have to
be built to launch the larger, roomier Spaceship II. No prices was quoted.
KABONG
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Off Topic - XPrize
>
> Hi,
>
> Has anyone seen a number for what it would cost to build
> a second SpaceShipOne and a second White Knight, now that
> the investment in R&D has been done? Also, what does it
> cost in fuel and other consumables for each flight?
>
> Thanks,
> Mickey
>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Insurance Rates |
tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com wrote:
>
>
> All,
>
> I just got a quote back from Falcon, and I thought I would share it for any interested.
Details as follows:
>
> - RV7A
> - $60,000 hull value
> - $0 Motion, $0 Not-in-motion deductibles
> - 1,000,000/100,000 Liability
> - Total premium - $1,776/yr
>
> I am instrument rated and have 300 hrs TT (0 make and model).
>
Another option that apparently is not known to all RV builders is GIM
and GRIM. Ground in Motion coverage provides liability and medical at
all times but the hull coverage ceases once the aircraft rolls onto the
active runway. Ground Not in Motion coverage includes liability and
medical at all times but hull coverage ceases once the engine starts.
I have used Ground Not in Motion coverage for several years since my
main concern is protection of the RV while it is parked (wind, fire,
theft, vandalism, hangar collapse, etc). I figure that if I ball up the
RV either the incident will be so severe that I won't be around to
consider the consequences or if the incident is not as dire, I am
willing to accept the responsibility for my goof and will want to repair
the aircraft myself.
GIM and GNIM carry premiums that are much less than full hull coverage.
These options are worth considering for the owner who is willing to
self-insure the hull.
I am not an insurance agent or expert; your agent can give you more info
on these matters.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Off Topic - XPrize |
JOHN STARN wrote:
>
> Wonder who got the "repairman's certificate" ?. 8*) KABONG
>
>
>>I'm just guessing on the costs. But it's refreshing to be looking at so
>>few
>>zeros and also to know it's an.... EXPERIMENTAL!!!!!!
What I'm wondering is how they intend to deal with the "non-commercial"
(no paying passengers) aspect of experimental aircraft. :-)
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Log Book Entries |
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
What is a good reference for various log book entries? What should (and
shouldn't) be annotated in each log book? Format? Examples? Etc...
Thx,
-
Larry Bowen, RV-8 5.2 hrs
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Doug,
I would add that the AWM 12V Cig connector is about as cheap as they come.
Little plastic tang inside failed allowing internal +12v spring to slide
back into the V-reg circuit board causing direct short. Case was glued shut,
so the repairability was marginal.
Connector into IPAQ is also very weak, and needs to be properly supported.
Broke two until I figured out how to support this with a tang in back of
connector riveted to the bottom of the RAM mount.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sectional Wallpaper |
Tedd McHenry wrote:
>
> Dana:
>
> I don't know about sectional wallpaper, but you might see if you can get
> yourself some JNCs (Jet Navigation Charts). These are 1:2,000,000 charts that
> are about 42" by 58", and cover large areas. For example, JNC 43 covers
> western North America from the Baja peninsula to the tip of Vancouver Island.
> Three JNCs cover all of the continental U.S.A., plus part of Mexico and Canada
> (JNC 43, 44, and 45, I think). That would cover an area about 100" wide and
> 60" tall.
>
> I don't know if anybody other than the military uses them, but if you have any
> Air Force or Navy contacts they might be able to get you some.
The large (57" x 120") inexpensive JNC's are available from Builders
Bookstore:
http://www.pilotsbooks.com/wallcharts.htm
I applied the largest JNC to our hangar wall with wallpaper paste. The
same could be done with sectionals. Matching up the borders is a little
tedious but definitely possible.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry2DT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Magnesium sump? No thanx. |
Stein,
Regarding the possible use of a magnesium sump, I'd be wary because of the
extreme flamability of magnesium. Picture this, you get a fuel leak inside the
cowling, hits some of those 1400 deg. pipes, instant fire. You, being
mentally prepared for this ugly possibility, shut off the fuel, expecting fire
to
go out shortly, while preparing for an engine out landing. Trouble is, now the
magnesium is burning with intensity while getting plenty of oxygen, and no
chance it'll go out. This is the stuff we used to make incindiary bombs from.
Mr. Google tells me it burns at 1335c/2435f.
What am I missing here?
Jerry Cochran
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: XP-360 Ryton plastic sump availability- was Superior
XP-IO360/FF
sump question
Good Luck,
Superior is keeping a REALLY tight lock on those. Tried the same thing, and
basically they told the "owner" of the kit engine that if he wanted a
"replacement", he'd have to send the original one back. I also asked about
it at OSH and was flatly and rudely told "don't ask". Their attitude at the
OSH booth was enough to make sure I won't be buying any Superior parts soon,
even if they were cheaper. Turns out the ECI guys were much nicer, they
parts are as good or better, and they are cheaper too - can't beat that!
Now, that being said, I have it on good rumor that ECI will shortly (within
a couple months) start shipping a lightweight forward facing sump for Lyc's.
The difference is they decided to use Magnesium instead of plastic, and the
weight is supposed to be close.
I don't have any other details, other than what I heard from my ECI
informants.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Well,
If one were to propel their Garmin 296 or 196 at 25,000 kts I think it might
penetrate the containment vessal of an NGS, but the readabilty in the
nuclear afterglow would be insufficient during and after the test.
But, I don't fully agree with the comments about the validity of the F4
test.
The P&W 4000 series engines have a central core that is equal to a 4000lb
tempered steel javelin. Although its somewhat hollow these in fact did make
their way completely through both world trade center buildings, and the P&W
2000 series cores had similar penetration results in the pentegon after
bouncing off the ground.
As far as I know nothing in an F-4 has that kind of mass or penetration
quality. In fact the engines were somewhat cushioned/decelerated by the
front half of the aircraft in this test. It was a comparision of apples to
pizza, both go down equally tasty but they come back up very differently.
The rest of any airliner is just a big aluminum balloon that would bounce
off the outer containment vessal, although some of the keel segments would
add to the damage if the engine cores were able to shatter enough of the
shell.
That said, the one nuke I've been in still had several more layers of
containment after the outer shell before one even got to fuel supplies, then
even more to get to the hot section of the station.
I would be far more concerned about a 747 hitting the side of a carrier or
boomer than one of our NGS's.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Log Book Entries |
Check out FAR 43.9 and 43.11. 43.9 covers the things required for
maintenance entries and 43.11 covers those things required for an inspection
entry.
Mike Robertson
>From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Log Book Entries
>Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2004 11:23:22 -0400 (EDT)
>
>
>What is a good reference for various log book entries? What should (and
>shouldn't) be annotated in each log book? Format? Examples? Etc...
>
>Thx,
>
>-
>Larry Bowen, RV-8 5.2 hrs
>Larry(at)BowenAero.com
>http://BowenAero.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Magnesium sump? No thanx. |
Bottom line, with a mass that big it will be very difficult to light, but,
once it is lit, dont be landing in any water thinking your going to put it
out!!!!!
anyone know the combustion temp of Mag.
>
>
>Stein,
>
>Regarding the possible use of a magnesium sump, I'd be wary because of the
>extreme flamability of magnesium. Picture this, you get a fuel leak
>inside the
>cowling, hits some of those 1400 deg. pipes, instant fire. You, being
>mentally prepared for this ugly possibility, shut off the fuel, expecting
>fire to
>go out shortly, while preparing for an engine out landing. Trouble is,
>now the
>magnesium is burning with intensity while getting plenty of oxygen, and no
>chance it'll go out. This is the stuff we used to make incindiary bombs
>from.
>Mr. Google tells me it burns at 1335c/2435f.
>
>What am I missing here?
>
>Jerry Cochran
>
>From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
>Subject: RE: RV-List: XP-360 Ryton plastic sump availability- was Superior
>XP-IO360/FF
>sump question
>
>
>Good Luck,
>
>Superior is keeping a REALLY tight lock on those. Tried the same thing, and
>basically they told the "owner" of the kit engine that if he wanted a
>"replacement", he'd have to send the original one back. I also asked about
>it at OSH and was flatly and rudely told "don't ask". Their attitude at the
>OSH booth was enough to make sure I won't be buying any Superior parts soon,
>even if they were cheaper. Turns out the ECI guys were much nicer, they
>parts are as good or better, and they are cheaper too - can't beat that!
>
>Now, that being said, I have it on good rumor that ECI will shortly (within
>a couple months) start shipping a lightweight forward facing sump for Lyc's.
>The difference is they decided to use Magnesium instead of plastic, and the
>weight is supposed to be close.
>
>I don't have any other details, other than what I heard from my ECI
>informants.
>
>Cheers,
>Stein Bruch
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott VanArtsdalen" <svanarts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Log Book Entries |
I'll reply with what my genuine FAA airworthiness inspector told me. He
told me not to enter anything in the logbooks other than "Annual
condition inspection performed on " whatever date. He specifically told
me that any other maintenance items I wanted to track should be in a
separate personal log. Fresno FSDO words, not mine.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV
4-ever!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Bowen
Subject: RV-List: Log Book Entries
What is a good reference for various log book entries? What should (and
shouldn't) be annotated in each log book? Format? Examples? Etc...
Thx,
-
Larry Bowen, RV-8 5.2 hrs
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Fenstermacher" <dfenstermacher(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Log Book Entries |
This raises a question for me.
What is the reference for the builder's log?
I am keeping a "journal" and taking lots of pictures (some with me working).
Is there anything else I should be doing?
I know there are commercial computer programs, but don't feel the need to
buy one if I can do it in MS Word.
Thanks,
Dave
> >What is a good reference for various log book entries? What should (and
> >shouldn't) be annotated in each log book? Format? Examples? Etc...
> >
> >Thx,
> >
> >-
> >Larry Bowen, RV-8 5.2 hrs
> >Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> >http://BowenAero.com
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Log Book Entries |
Dave,
I think that is all you'll need. That's about what I did and the FAA guy
(when I applied for my repairman's certificate) leafed through my steno-type log
book then said, "Let's look at your pictures, they say a lot more than words."
I only had about a dozen pictures. He was more than satisfied.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
N766DH (Flying since 7/7/04 -- about 58 hours now)
In a message dated 10/5/04 1:04:21 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
dfenstermacher(at)earthlink.net writes:
>
> dfenstermacher(at)earthlink.net>
>
> This raises a question for me.
> What is the reference for the builder's log?
> I am keeping a "journal" and taking lots of pictures (some with me working).
> Is there anything else I should be doing?
> I know there are commercial computer programs, but don't feel the need to
> buy one if I can do it in MS Word.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Magnesium sump? No thanx. |
| From: | Scott.Fink(at)microchip.com |
10/05/2004 11:26:44 AM,
Serialize complete at 10/05/2004 11:26:44 AM
> anyone know the combustion temp of Mag.
Less than that of motor oil. The old VW bugs had either a magnesium case
or cylinders, and if they got coated with leaked oil, and the oil caught,
the mag would light. When the fire dept shows up at the fire, they would
stand around and watch it burn because there was nothing they could do
about it.
Scott
Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
10/05/2004 10:43 AM
Please respond to rv-list
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Magnesium sump? No thanx.
<bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Bottom line, with a mass that big it will be very difficult to light, but,
once it is lit, dont be landing in any water thinking your going to put it
out!!!!!
anyone know the combustion temp of Mag.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "steve zicree" <szicree(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Magnesium sump? No thanx. |
I have personally witnessed a volkswagen engine case ignite in a campfire.
Didn't seem to take too long to catch, and once it's going, there's no
putting it out. I suspect that the alloy used in the sump is probably less
flammable though.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Bilinski" <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Magnesium sump? No thanx.
<bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
> Bottom line, with a mass that big it will be very difficult to light, but,
> once it is lit, dont be landing in any water thinking your going to put it
> out!!!!!
>
> anyone know the combustion temp of Mag.
>
>
> >
> >
> >Stein,
> >
> >Regarding the possible use of a magnesium sump, I'd be wary because of
the
> >extreme flamability of magnesium. Picture this, you get a fuel leak
> >inside the
> >cowling, hits some of those 1400 deg. pipes, instant fire. You, being
> >mentally prepared for this ugly possibility, shut off the fuel,
expecting
> >fire to
> >go out shortly, while preparing for an engine out landing. Trouble is,
> >now the
> >magnesium is burning with intensity while getting plenty of oxygen, and
no
> >chance it'll go out. This is the stuff we used to make incindiary bombs
> >from.
> >Mr. Google tells me it burns at 1335c/2435f.
> >
> >What am I missing here?
> >
> >Jerry Cochran
> >
> >From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
> >Subject: RE: RV-List: XP-360 Ryton plastic sump availability- was
Superior
> >XP-IO360/FF
> >sump question
> >
> >
> >Good Luck,
> >
> >Superior is keeping a REALLY tight lock on those. Tried the same thing,
and
> >basically they told the "owner" of the kit engine that if he wanted a
> >"replacement", he'd have to send the original one back. I also asked
about
> >it at OSH and was flatly and rudely told "don't ask". Their attitude at
the
> >OSH booth was enough to make sure I won't be buying any Superior parts
soon,
> >even if they were cheaper. Turns out the ECI guys were much nicer, they
> >parts are as good or better, and they are cheaper too - can't beat that!
> >
> >Now, that being said, I have it on good rumor that ECI will shortly
(within
> >a couple months) start shipping a lightweight forward facing sump for
Lyc's.
> >The difference is they decided to use Magnesium instead of plastic, and
the
> >weight is supposed to be close.
> >
> >I don't have any other details, other than what I heard from my ECI
> >informants.
> >
> >Cheers,
> >Stein Bruch
> >
> >
>
>
> Scott Bilinski
> Eng dept 305
> Phone (858) 657-2536
> Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "van Bladeren, Ron" <rwv(at)nwnatural.com> |
| Subject: | Magnesium sump? No thanx. |
I believe the oil pan, accessory case and engine mount arms on the O-300,
arguably the most common, small block, Continental engine produced, are
magnesium and they don't seem to have any problems (other then corrosion
pitting).
Ron.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Scott Bilinski
Subject: Re: RV-List: Magnesium sump? No thanx.
<bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Bottom line, with a mass that big it will be very difficult to light, but,
once it is lit, dont be landing in any water thinking your going to put it
out!!!!!
anyone know the combustion temp of Mag.
>
>
>Stein,
>
>Regarding the possible use of a magnesium sump, I'd be wary because of the
>extreme flamability of magnesium. Picture this, you get a fuel leak
>inside the
>cowling, hits some of those 1400 deg. pipes, instant fire. You, being
>mentally prepared for this ugly possibility, shut off the fuel, expecting
>fire to
>go out shortly, while preparing for an engine out landing. Trouble is,
>now the
>magnesium is burning with intensity while getting plenty of oxygen, and
no
>chance it'll go out. This is the stuff we used to make incindiary bombs
>from.
>Mr. Google tells me it burns at 1335c/2435f.
>
>What am I missing here?
>
>Jerry Cochran
>
>From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
>Subject: RE: RV-List: XP-360 Ryton plastic sump availability- was Superior
>XP-IO360/FF
>sump question
>
>
>Good Luck,
>
>Superior is keeping a REALLY tight lock on those. Tried the same thing,
and
>basically they told the "owner" of the kit engine that if he wanted a
>"replacement", he'd have to send the original one back. I also asked
about
>it at OSH and was flatly and rudely told "don't ask". Their attitude at
the
>OSH booth was enough to make sure I won't be buying any Superior parts
soon,
>even if they were cheaper. Turns out the ECI guys were much nicer, they
>parts are as good or better, and they are cheaper too - can't beat that!
>
>Now, that being said, I have it on good rumor that ECI will shortly
(within
>a couple months) start shipping a lightweight forward facing sump for
Lyc's.
>The difference is they decided to use Magnesium instead of plastic, and
the
>weight is supposed to be close.
>
>I don't have any other details, other than what I heard from my ECI
>informants.
>
>Cheers,
>Stein Bruch
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sectional Wallpaper(& shameless flyin plug) |
Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
>Tedd McHenry wrote:
>
>
>>
>>Dana:
>>
>>I don't know about sectional wallpaper, but you might see if you can get
>>yourself some JNCs (Jet Navigation Charts). These are 1:2,000,000 charts that
>>are about 42" by 58", and cover large areas. For example, JNC 43 covers
>>western North America from the Baja peninsula to the tip of Vancouver Island.
>>Three JNCs cover all of the continental U.S.A., plus part of Mexico and Canada
>>(JNC 43, 44, and 45, I think). That would cover an area about 100" wide and
>>60" tall.
>>
>>I don't know if anybody other than the military uses them, but if you have any
>>Air Force or Navy contacts they might be able to get you some.
>>
>>
>
>
>The large (57" x 120") inexpensive JNC's are available from Builders
>Bookstore:
>
>http://www.pilotsbooks.com/wallcharts.htm
>
>I applied the largest JNC to our hangar wall with wallpaper paste. The
>same could be done with sectionals. Matching up the borders is a little
>tedious but definitely possible.
>
>Sam Buchanan
>
We did the same thing (under glass) for the top surface of our breakfast
bar. I fought it tooth my wife insisted on it & of course it
looks great & is the focal point of our house for visitors. I agree that
it's tedious to match the edges, but no gentleman (or lady) will ever
point out the flaws. :-)
Come on down to Slobovia Outernational (MS71) on Oct. 16 & check it out
while you eat some BBQ.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Magnesium sump? No thanx. |
I think I mis-spoke in an earlier email. Replace Magnesium with
Titanium......
We better get the thing right from the horses mouth instead of third hand
from me. I'll call ECI today if I get a chance to find out what it's really
going to be made of.
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jerry2DT(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Magnesium sump? No thanx.
Stein,
Regarding the possible use of a magnesium sump, I'd be wary because of the
extreme flamability of magnesium. Picture this, you get a fuel leak inside
the
cowling, hits some of those 1400 deg. pipes, instant fire. You, being
mentally prepared for this ugly possibility, shut off the fuel, expecting
fire to
go out shortly, while preparing for an engine out landing. Trouble is, now
the
magnesium is burning with intensity while getting plenty of oxygen, and no
chance it'll go out. This is the stuff we used to make incindiary bombs
from.
Mr. Google tells me it burns at 1335c/2435f.
What am I missing here?
Jerry Cochran
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: XP-360 Ryton plastic sump availability- was Superior
XP-IO360/FF
sump question
Good Luck,
Superior is keeping a REALLY tight lock on those. Tried the same thing, and
basically they told the "owner" of the kit engine that if he wanted a
"replacement", he'd have to send the original one back. I also asked about
it at OSH and was flatly and rudely told "don't ask". Their attitude at
the
OSH booth was enough to make sure I won't be buying any Superior parts
soon,
even if they were cheaper. Turns out the ECI guys were much nicer, they
parts are as good or better, and they are cheaper too - can't beat that!
Now, that being said, I have it on good rumor that ECI will shortly (within
a couple months) start shipping a lightweight forward facing sump for
Lyc's.
The difference is they decided to use Magnesium instead of plastic, and the
weight is supposed to be close.
I don't have any other details, other than what I heard from my ECI
informants.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob J <rocketbob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Magnesium sump? No thanx. |
Jerry, you are missing the fact that Lycoming sumps are made from cast
magnesium, and have been since the birth of the Lycosaur.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying F1 qb under const.
>
> Stein,
>
> Regarding the possible use of a magnesium sump, I'd be wary because of the
> extreme flamability of magnesium. Picture this, you get a fuel leak inside the
> cowling, hits some of those 1400 deg. pipes, instant fire. You, being
> mentally prepared for this ugly possibility, shut off the fuel, expecting fire
to
> go out shortly, while preparing for an engine out landing. Trouble is, now the
> magnesium is burning with intensity while getting plenty of oxygen, and no
> chance it'll go out. This is the stuff we used to make incindiary bombs from.
> Mr. Google tells me it burns at 1335c/2435f.
>
> What am I missing here?
>
> Jerry Cochran
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Log Book Entries |
What kind of genuine FAA inspector is that? An airframe maintenance log is
exactly that, and should have everything from oil changes, annual
inspections, structural repairs, modificiations, etc.... Of course engine
work is reserved for an engine log. You don't need two airframe logs.
Think of the records for the aircraft just like medical records for a
person. Personally, I don't write down little things like tighening a
screw, but I do record any oil changes, wheel bearing packing, brake pads
during the annual, etc.. Also, the statement the FAA guy told you isn't even
of the proper legal terminology. The statement can be found in the AC43.13
and the annual inspection should start out saying: "I have inspected this
aircraft in accordance with a XXXX inspection.....".
Just my experience in the Experimental as well as certified world.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
A&P
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Scott
VanArtsdalen
Subject: RE: RV-List: Log Book Entries
I'll reply with what my genuine FAA airworthiness inspector told me. He
told me not to enter anything in the logbooks other than "Annual
condition inspection performed on " whatever date. He specifically told
me that any other maintenance items I wanted to track should be in a
separate personal log. Fresno FSDO words, not mine.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV
4-ever!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Bowen
Subject: RV-List: Log Book Entries
What is a good reference for various log book entries? What should (and
shouldn't) be annotated in each log book? Format? Examples? Etc...
Thx,
-
Larry Bowen, RV-8 5.2 hrs
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob J <rocketbob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Magnesium sump? No thanx. |
540's have always had cast magnesium sumps, not sure about the
four-cyl. engines. My apologies in advance if I caused any confusion.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying F1 qb under const
> Jerry, you are missing the fact that Lycoming sumps are made from cast
> magnesium, and have been since the birth of the Lycosaur.
>
> Regards,
> Bob Japundza
> RV-6 flying F1 qb under const.
>
>
>
>
> >
> > Stein,
> >
> > Regarding the possible use of a magnesium sump, I'd be wary because of the
> > extreme flamability of magnesium. Picture this, you get a fuel leak inside
the
> > cowling, hits some of those 1400 deg. pipes, instant fire. You, being
> > mentally prepared for this ugly possibility, shut off the fuel, expecting
fire to
> > go out shortly, while preparing for an engine out landing. Trouble is, now
the
> > magnesium is burning with intensity while getting plenty of oxygen, and no
> > chance it'll go out. This is the stuff we used to make incindiary bombs from.
> > Mr. Google tells me it burns at 1335c/2435f.
> >
> > What am I missing here?
> >
> > Jerry Cochran
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Magnesium sump? No thanx. |
You are missing the fact that many engines already use magnesium cases. For
example the old A-65 accessory case with it's built in oil pump housing is
magnesium.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jerry2DT(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Magnesium sump? No thanx.
>
>
> Stein,
>
> Regarding the possible use of a magnesium sump, I'd be wary because of
the
> extreme flamability of magnesium. Picture this, you get a fuel leak
inside the
> cowling, hits some of those 1400 deg. pipes, instant fire. You, being
> mentally prepared for this ugly possibility, shut off the fuel, expecting
fire to
> go out shortly, while preparing for an engine out landing. Trouble is,
now the
> magnesium is burning with intensity while getting plenty of oxygen, and
no
> chance it'll go out. This is the stuff we used to make incindiary bombs
from.
> Mr. Google tells me it burns at 1335c/2435f.
>
> What am I missing here?
>
> Jerry Cochran
>
> From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: XP-360 Ryton plastic sump availability- was
Superior
> XP-IO360/FF
> sump question
>
>
> Good Luck,
>
> Superior is keeping a REALLY tight lock on those. Tried the same thing,
and
> basically they told the "owner" of the kit engine that if he wanted a
> "replacement", he'd have to send the original one back. I also asked
about
> it at OSH and was flatly and rudely told "don't ask". Their attitude at
the
> OSH booth was enough to make sure I won't be buying any Superior parts
soon,
> even if they were cheaper. Turns out the ECI guys were much nicer, they
> parts are as good or better, and they are cheaper too - can't beat that!
>
> Now, that being said, I have it on good rumor that ECI will shortly
(within
> a couple months) start shipping a lightweight forward facing sump for
Lyc's.
> The difference is they decided to use Magnesium instead of plastic, and
the
> weight is supposed to be close.
>
> I don't have any other details, other than what I heard from my ECI
> informants.
>
> Cheers,
> Stein Bruch
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "steve zicree" <szicree(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Log Book Entries |
All the legalities notwithstanding, which type of log would you rather see
if you were considering BUYING said aircraft? This point alone justifies
keeping records of everything short of wiping bugs off the canopy, IMHO of
course : )
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Log Book Entries
>
> What kind of genuine FAA inspector is that? An airframe maintenance log
is
> exactly that, and should have everything from oil changes, annual
> inspections, structural repairs, modificiations, etc.... Of course engine
> work is reserved for an engine log. You don't need two airframe logs.
>
> Think of the records for the aircraft just like medical records for a
> person. Personally, I don't write down little things like tighening a
> screw, but I do record any oil changes, wheel bearing packing, brake pads
> during the annual, etc.. Also, the statement the FAA guy told you isn't
even
> of the proper legal terminology. The statement can be found in the
AC43.13
> and the annual inspection should start out saying: "I have inspected this
> aircraft in accordance with a XXXX inspection.....".
>
> Just my experience in the Experimental as well as certified world.
>
> Cheers,
> Stein Bruch
> RV6's, Minneapolis
> A&P
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Scott
> VanArtsdalen
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Log Book Entries
>
>
> I'll reply with what my genuine FAA airworthiness inspector told me. He
> told me not to enter anything in the logbooks other than "Annual
> condition inspection performed on " whatever date. He specifically told
> me that any other maintenance items I wanted to track should be in a
> separate personal log. Fresno FSDO words, not mine.
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen
> RV-4 N311SV
> 4-ever!
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Bowen
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Log Book Entries
>
>
> What is a good reference for various log book entries? What should (and
> shouldn't) be annotated in each log book? Format? Examples? Etc...
>
> Thx,
>
> -
> Larry Bowen, RV-8 5.2 hrs
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
> =
> =
> =
> =
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott VanArtsdalen" <svanarts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Log Book Entries |
I'm with you on that. I'm just passing on what was said.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV
4-ever!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stein Bruch
Subject: RE: RV-List: Log Book Entries
What kind of genuine FAA inspector is that? An airframe maintenance log
is
exactly that, and should have everything from oil changes, annual
inspections, structural repairs, modificiations, etc.... Of course
engine
work is reserved for an engine log. You don't need two airframe logs.
Think of the records for the aircraft just like medical records for a
person. Personally, I don't write down little things like tighening a
screw, but I do record any oil changes, wheel bearing packing, brake
pads
during the annual, etc.. Also, the statement the FAA guy told you isn't
even
of the proper legal terminology. The statement can be found in the
AC43.13
and the annual inspection should start out saying: "I have inspected
this
aircraft in accordance with a XXXX inspection.....".
Just my experience in the Experimental as well as certified world.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
A&P
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Scott
VanArtsdalen
Subject: RE: RV-List: Log Book Entries
I'll reply with what my genuine FAA airworthiness inspector told me. He
told me not to enter anything in the logbooks other than "Annual
condition inspection performed on " whatever date. He specifically told
me that any other maintenance items I wanted to track should be in a
separate personal log. Fresno FSDO words, not mine.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV
4-ever!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Bowen
Subject: RV-List: Log Book Entries
What is a good reference for various log book entries? What should (and
shouldn't) be annotated in each log book? Format? Examples? Etc...
Thx,
-
Larry Bowen, RV-8 5.2 hrs
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
=
=
=
=
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
With the short remaing life of the 121.5 mh ELT system, and with 406's still
being relatively expensive, and with no ELT required in a single place
aircraft (RV-3B), is it worth adding the weight and expense of this
near-obsolete technology, or should I go sans ELT until the nextgen product
becomes more mature?
Randy Lervold
RV-3B, fuselage
www.rv-3.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us(at)hotmail.com> |
Hey Randy, Are the EBC-502's also going. They work off both 121.5 and 243.0?
If so that is a true bummer. Those thing's are small, light weight and
portable.
>From: "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: ,
>Subject: RV-List: ELT?
>Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2004 13:44:37 -0700
>
>
>With the short remaing life of the 121.5 mh ELT system, and with 406's
>still
>being relatively expensive, and with no ELT required in a single place
>aircraft (RV-3B), is it worth adding the weight and expense of this
>near-obsolete technology, or should I go sans ELT until the nextgen product
>becomes more mature?
>
>Randy Lervold
>RV-3B, fuselage
>www.rv-3.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Martin Hone" <mctrader(at)bigpond.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re : Magnesium Sumps |
Seems to be a fair bit of anecdotal evidence that magnesium burns easily,
but in my experience you need a lot of heat to get it to burn. If you have
that much going on, you would be in trouble anyway. Even the aluminum would
burn away.
Heck, you can even weld the stuff !
I have no problem riding behind an engine with magnesium cases or sump.
Cheers
Martin in Oz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
Yes, both 121.5 and 243.0 will become obsolete.
----- Original Message -----
From: "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: ELT?
>
> Hey Randy, Are the EBC-502's also going. They work off both 121.5 and
243.0?
> If so that is a true bummer. Those thing's are small, light weight and
> portable.
>
> >From: "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: ,
> >Subject: RV-List: ELT?
> >Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2004 13:44:37 -0700
> >
> >
> >With the short remaing life of the 121.5 mh ELT system, and with 406's
> >still
> >being relatively expensive, and with no ELT required in a single place
> >aircraft (RV-3B), is it worth adding the weight and expense of this
> >near-obsolete technology, or should I go sans ELT until the nextgen
product
> >becomes more mature?
> >
> >Randy Lervold
> >RV-3B, fuselage
> >www.rv-3.com
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris W <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sectional Wallpaper(& shameless flyin plug) |
Someone on the rec.aviation.piloting news group asked a similar question
with out much response a while back. However I did find out from that
thread that you can download very high res tiff images of the
sectionals. If people think it would be worth while I could try and
past them together and make a huge map. I have a friend that has a 44"
wide ink jet printer and can print any length for about 6$ per square
foot. I know it is expensive but if your just doing it once. . . I will
have to check to see if he can do it cheaper if it's not on that glossy
photo paper he normally uses.
--
Chris W
Bring Back the HP 15C
http://hp15c.org
Not getting the gifts you want? The Wish Zone can help.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us(at)hotmail.com> |
What do they have in store for us? And is it affordable? New and improved is
usually expensive.
>From: "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: ELT?
>Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2004 15:29:00 -0700
>
>
>Yes, both 121.5 and 243.0 will become obsolete.
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us(at)hotmail.com>
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV-List: ELT?
>
>
> >
> > Hey Randy, Are the EBC-502's also going. They work off both 121.5 and
>243.0?
> > If so that is a true bummer. Those thing's are small, light weight and
> > portable.
> >
> > >From: "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com>
> > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > >To: ,
> > >Subject: RV-List: ELT?
> > >Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2004 13:44:37 -0700
> > >
> > >
> > >With the short remaing life of the 121.5 mh ELT system, and with 406's
> > >still
> > >being relatively expensive, and with no ELT required in a single place
> > >aircraft (RV-3B), is it worth adding the weight and expense of this
> > >near-obsolete technology, or should I go sans ELT until the nextgen
>product
> > >becomes more mature?
> > >
> > >Randy Lervold
> > >RV-3B, fuselage
> > >www.rv-3.com
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Get ready for school! Find articles, homework help and more in the Back to
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
>
>With the short remaing life of the 121.5 mh ELT system, and with 406's
>still
>being relatively expensive, and with no ELT required in a single place
>aircraft (RV-3B), is it worth adding the weight and expense of this
>near-obsolete technology, or should I go sans ELT until the nextgen product
>becomes more mature?
>
>Randy Lervold
>RV-3B, fuselage
>www.rv-3.com
I can relate to this dilemma. Tailcone is done on the RV10, and I'd like to
get the ELT installation done now, while it's easy to access everything.
But, how long will today's ELT be viable?
Will most likely wait til later. Much later.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
The new ELT's at the moment are quite pricey. I looked at stocking them,
but the only decently priced one out there that is (COSPAS/SARSAT) compliant
for 2009+ is high $$ compared to the current $180.00 ACK & AK's.
Anyway, if anyone is interested, pointer makes one in the $400.00-$500.00
range. If you're interested in one, contact me off list and we'll get you
setup.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
http://www.steinair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of BRUCE GRAY
Subject: Re: RV-List: ELT?
What do they have in store for us? And is it affordable? New and improved is
usually expensive.
>From: "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: ELT?
>Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2004 15:29:00 -0700
>
>
>Yes, both 121.5 and 243.0 will become obsolete.
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us(at)hotmail.com>
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV-List: ELT?
>
>
> >
> > Hey Randy, Are the EBC-502's also going. They work off both 121.5 and
>243.0?
> > If so that is a true bummer. Those thing's are small, light weight and
> > portable.
> >
> > >From: "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com>
> > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > >To: ,
> > >Subject: RV-List: ELT?
> > >Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2004 13:44:37 -0700
> > >
> > >
> > >With the short remaing life of the 121.5 mh ELT system, and with 406's
> > >still
> > >being relatively expensive, and with no ELT required in a single place
> > >aircraft (RV-3B), is it worth adding the weight and expense of this
> > >near-obsolete technology, or should I go sans ELT until the nextgen
>product
> > >becomes more mature?
> > >
> > >Randy Lervold
> > >RV-3B, fuselage
> > >www.rv-3.com
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Get ready for school! Find articles, homework help and more in the Back to
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Magnesium sump? No thanx. |
Jerry,
I don't know that you are missing anything. However, Lycoming's 200 hp
sumps are made of magnesium.
Charlie Kuss
>
>
>Stein,
>
>Regarding the possible use of a magnesium sump, I'd be wary because of the
>extreme flamability of magnesium. Picture this, you get a fuel leak
>inside the
>cowling, hits some of those 1400 deg. pipes, instant fire. You, being
>mentally prepared for this ugly possibility, shut off the fuel, expecting
>fire to
>go out shortly, while preparing for an engine out landing. Trouble is,
>now the
>magnesium is burning with intensity while getting plenty of oxygen, and no
>chance it'll go out. This is the stuff we used to make incindiary bombs
>from.
>Mr. Google tells me it burns at 1335c/2435f.
>
>What am I missing here?
>
>Jerry Cochran
>
>From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
>Subject: RE: RV-List: XP-360 Ryton plastic sump availability- was Superior
>XP-IO360/FF
>sump question
>
>
>Good Luck,
>
>Superior is keeping a REALLY tight lock on those. Tried the same thing, and
>basically they told the "owner" of the kit engine that if he wanted a
>"replacement", he'd have to send the original one back. I also asked about
>it at OSH and was flatly and rudely told "don't ask". Their attitude at the
>OSH booth was enough to make sure I won't be buying any Superior parts soon,
>even if they were cheaper. Turns out the ECI guys were much nicer, they
>parts are as good or better, and they are cheaper too - can't beat that!
>
>Now, that being said, I have it on good rumor that ECI will shortly (within
>a couple months) start shipping a lightweight forward facing sump for Lyc's.
>The difference is they decided to use Magnesium instead of plastic, and the
>weight is supposed to be close.
>
>I don't have any other details, other than what I heard from my ECI
>informants.
>
>Cheers,
>Stein Bruch
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mimartin(at)sweetwaterhsa.com" <mimartin(at)sweetwater.com> |
| Subject: | Follow up to posting about KLX-135A |
I would like all the subscribers to know that Jim Irwin , President of Aircraft
Spruce and Specialty, corrected the price on the KLX-135A and gave me a credit
for the difference. They have proven that customer is # 1 and they are #1 with
me.
Mickey Martin RV 6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Schaefer" <dschaefer1(at)kc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Jefferson City, MO FLY-IN 10/09/04 |
Just a reminder that this Saturday is the annual Jefferson City, (JEF) MO.
Fly-in. Let's make sure the RV's outnumber everything else in total!
Looking forward to seeing you there.
David Schaefer
RV6A - N142DS - FINISHED & FLYING!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
I mis-spoke. The currnet 406mhz ELT's are going for betwen $1500-1800.00
and up.
Sorry for the confusion.
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Stein Bruch
Subject: RE: RV-List: ELT?
The new ELT's at the moment are quite pricey. I looked at stocking them,
but the only decently priced one out there that is (COSPAS/SARSAT) compliant
for 2009+ is high $$ compared to the current $180.00 ACK & AK's.
Anyway, if anyone is interested, pointer makes one in the $400.00-$500.00
range. If you're interested in one, contact me off list and we'll get you
setup.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
http://www.steinair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of BRUCE GRAY
Subject: Re: RV-List: ELT?
What do they have in store for us? And is it affordable? New and improved is
usually expensive.
>From: "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: ELT?
>Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2004 15:29:00 -0700
>
>
>Yes, both 121.5 and 243.0 will become obsolete.
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us(at)hotmail.com>
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV-List: ELT?
>
>
> >
> > Hey Randy, Are the EBC-502's also going. They work off both 121.5 and
>243.0?
> > If so that is a true bummer. Those thing's are small, light weight and
> > portable.
> >
> > >From: "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com>
> > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > >To: ,
> > >Subject: RV-List: ELT?
> > >Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2004 13:44:37 -0700
> > >
> > >
> > >With the short remaing life of the 121.5 mh ELT system, and with 406's
> > >still
> > >being relatively expensive, and with no ELT required in a single place
> > >aircraft (RV-3B), is it worth adding the weight and expense of this
> > >near-obsolete technology, or should I go sans ELT until the nextgen
>product
> > >becomes more mature?
> > >
> > >Randy Lervold
> > >RV-3B, fuselage
> > >www.rv-3.com
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Get ready for school! Find articles, homework help and more in the Back to
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George & Ann Meketa" <acgm(at)gvtc.com> |
Hello Y'all,
Have a few things lying around that I should let go of.
1. IO360 200HP Vetterman RV8 exhaust. Used 400 hours,
sent to Vetterman for flange repair and had no time to wait
and install new system. Clean bill of health by Larry. Has
4 EGT probe holes and no mounting hardware. New
$775.00 will let go for $500.00.
2. True Airspeed Indicator for RV8. Dual dial with V speed
markings and lighted. Like new. ASIT260MKL. New
$265.00 asking $200.00.
3. Oil cooler. Positech #4211. Latest updated version. Not
the old style which gave the bad reputation. Never installed.
Vans price $165.00, sell for $130.00.
4. Oil seperator. Aircraft Spruce #10570. Like new. Spruce
price $38.85 cheap at $20.00.
All items will be packed at no charge and shipping paid by purchaser
at actual cost.
George Meketa
N444TX, RV8, 530 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Holland" <hollandm(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Tight hinge pins |
1.67 SARE_ADLTSUB2 Contains possible adult words
Inserting the 0.90" hinge pins that join the top and bottom cowl requires a vice
grip on the last few inches. This seems to be a lot of force and breaking
a pin on insertion would be a large problem. I should note that I can't use
a drill to set the pins since the outside end is bent 90 degrees.
I'm hoping that the pins will wear-in somewhat after I'm flying or should I be
doing something to reduce the amount of force necessary to insert the pins?
As it is I'll will be replacing the originals with new pin stock before first flight.
The originals accumulate a lot of wear during the construction phase.
As for maintenance, how often should a person think of replacing these pins?
If anyone has had them break, how on earth did you remove them?
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tight hinge pins |
Mike Holland wrote:
>
>Inserting the 0.90" hinge pins that join the top and bottom cowl requires a vice
grip on the last few inches. This seems to be a lot of force and breaking
a pin on insertion would be a large problem. I should note that I can't use
a drill to set the pins since the outside end is bent 90 degrees.
>
>I'm hoping that the pins will wear-in somewhat after I'm flying or should I be
doing something to reduce the amount of force necessary to insert the pins?
>
>As it is I'll will be replacing the originals with new pin stock before first
flight. The originals accumulate a lot of wear during the construction phase.
>
>As for maintenance, how often should a person think of replacing these pins?
>
Hmmm....Flying 15 years and have not thought about it yet. :-)
>
>If anyone has had them break, how on earth did you remove them?
>
>
>Thanks
>
>
I doubt they well break, but if they do it well most likely be at the
point where you bent the 90degree bend.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tight hinge pins |
Mike:
I very slightly reduced the diameter of the pins by scrubbing them with
red Scotchbrite pads.
My pins are also bent 90 degrees at the end, and that just seemed to make
spinning them in by slow-turning drill easier, as the chuck could get a grip
on the bend by sticking it through the space between two of the jaws.
Scott in vancouver
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Holland" <hollandm(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: RV-List: Tight hinge pins
>
> Inserting the 0.90" hinge pins that join the top and bottom cowl requires
> a vice grip on the last few inches. This seems to be a lot of force and
> breaking a pin on insertion would be a large problem. I should note that
> I can't use a drill to set the pins since the outside end is bent 90
> degrees.
>
> I'm hoping that the pins will wear-in somewhat after I'm flying or should
> I be doing something to reduce the amount of force necessary to insert the
> pins?
>
> As it is I'll will be replacing the originals with new pin stock before
> first flight. The originals accumulate a lot of wear during the
> construction phase.
>
> As for maintenance, how often should a person think of replacing these
> pins?
>
> If anyone has had them break, how on earth did you remove them?
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andy Karmy <andy(at)karmy.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tight hinge pins |
>
> I'm hoping that the pins will wear-in somewhat after I'm flying or
> should I be doing something to reduce the amount of force necessary to
> insert the pins?
>
>
You will be amazed at how they wear in. I had to use a drill on mine
during construction, but after 25 hours of flying I can put them in by
hand with no drill or vicegrips.
Keep with it and they will loosen up. I also used some LPS spray on
them the first few hours. I just spray it on a rag and wipe the pins to
slick them up.
- Andy Karmy
RV9A Seattle WA
275hrs going strong...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tight hinge pins |
Hi Mike,
I have my pins set up to insert forward through the NACA vents.
My hinge pins are fit quite tight and I have tried both Beolube and ordinary
bar soap.
Both of these materials applied to the hinge pins have provided some quite
reasonable success in reducing the friction.
My thought in using the bar of soap was that before painting I did not want
to pollute the area with unknown chemistry. Mind you I have little or no
knowledge as to the make up of either product. It just seemed to me that the
parts will be rinsed (wet sanded) some time be fore being painted.
In any case the overall struggle was reduced somewhat. Both materials seemed
to have about the same noticable level of benefit.
The pins can and in fact have broken. When installed from the front of the
cowl take great care to provide a very safe and secure means of installation
is needed. I do know of one case where one of the cowl hinge pins somehow
became un secured and vibration allowed it to do serious ($$ rebuild $$)
damage to a C.S. prop.
Have fun pulling your pin...s {[g-] !
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Holland" <hollandm(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: RV-List: Tight hinge pins
>
> Inserting the 0.90" hinge pins that join the top and bottom cowl requires
> a vice grip on the last few inches. This seems to be a lot of force and
> breaking a pin on insertion would be a large problem. I should note that
> I can't use a drill to set the pins since the outside end is bent 90
> degrees.
>
> I'm hoping that the pins will wear-in somewhat after I'm flying or should
> I be doing something to reduce the amount of force necessary to insert the
> pins?
>
> As it is I'll will be replacing the originals with new pin stock before
> first flight. The originals accumulate a lot of wear during the
> construction phase.
>
> As for maintenance, how often should a person think of replacing these
> pins?
>
> If anyone has had them break, how on earth did you remove them?
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Fenstermacher" <dfenstermacher(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Rivet shavers/Flush rivets on VS |
Ok - I have a couple more questions.
My VS flush rivets are all flush (don't laugh) except for a few where I didn't
countersink enough or the primer threw off my fit.
Anyway, I was wondering if I needed to flush these up. I don't know how critical
it is for these rivets to be perfectly flush when attaching to fuse.
Will the fuse to VS attach accept a couple high rivets, or does it need to be perfectly
flat?
If I can leave them alone I won't have to buy something to cut these down.
If I can't, then it leads me to my second question...
Has anybody tried the Avery rivet shaver that fits in a countersink tool? A "real"
rivet shaver is big bucks.
OR, is there an alternative to using a rivet shaver (Dremel tool, etc.)?
Thanks everybody,
Dave
RV-8
Emp. almost complete; wings on order.
Woodbridge, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Follow up to posting about KLX-135A |
> I would like all the subscribers to know that Jim Irwin , President of
Aircraft Spruce > and Specialty, corrected the price on the KLX-135A and
gave me a credit for the
> difference. They have proven that customer is # 1 and they are #1 with
me.
> Mickey Martin RV 6
>
Good luck. Around here, the service hasn't been that good. I bought from
them when I first started building Scooter way back in 1992 and quit buying
from them, after a bit. Then, I started buying from them again around 1996
after they assured me they had changed. Yeah, sure. I stopped again. I've
found their service, pricing, shipping practices, etc. not up to par with
the other companies I've bought from. Today, I use Wicks for most of my day
to day stuff. I only use Aircraft Spruce as a last resort when I can't find
an item somewhere else. Maybe the new location in Georgia will help. I got
better service out of those folks than the ones out west. I must admit that
I do like their catalog. I use it for ideas before buying from somebody
else.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
RV-7A #70317 (Building wings, fuse ordered)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Sumps: Mag vs. Ryton |
Just a couple of thoughts not strung together with any particular coherence:
One of the benefits of a Ryton sump and runners goes beyond the weight
issue. Plastic does not conduct heat like metal. The Ryton runners will
result in a cooler charge than any metal integral sump/manifold. Although
certainly not as cold as an external manifold.
Another exapmle of Magnesium in aircraft engine is the LOM inline engine
thats somewhat popular with homebuilders. The crank case is made of
magnesium.
Someone mentioned titanium. Only problem with that is it is heavier than
aluminum.
(Titanium 40% lighter than steel and 60% lighter than aluminum)
titanium is used to replace steel
magnesium is used to replace aluminum
Aluminum, like magnesium will burn. Its just harder to get it to start. In
practice its not an issue, but aluminum will burn. The space shuttle solid
rocket boosters burn aluminum.
Don
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet shavers/Flush rivets on VS |
Dave:
I have used the Avery rivet shaver with very good success. It takes a bit
of practice and a light touch, but it worked well for me.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P (reserved)
firewall forward
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Fenstermacher" <dfenstermacher(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Rivet shavers/Flush rivets on VS
>
>
> Ok - I have a couple more questions.
> My VS flush rivets are all flush (don't laugh) except for a few where I
> didn't countersink enough or the primer threw off my fit.
> Anyway, I was wondering if I needed to flush these up. I don't know how
> critical it is for these rivets to be perfectly flush when attaching to
> fuse.
>
> Will the fuse to VS attach accept a couple high rivets, or does it need to
> be perfectly flat?
>
> If I can leave them alone I won't have to buy something to cut these down.
> If I can't, then it leads me to my second question...
>
> Has anybody tried the Avery rivet shaver that fits in a countersink tool?
> A "real" rivet shaver is big bucks.
>
> OR, is there an alternative to using a rivet shaver (Dremel tool, etc.)?
>
> Thanks everybody,
>
> Dave
>
> RV-8
> Emp. almost complete; wings on order.
> Woodbridge, VA
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Neal E Capt AU/PC <Neal.George(at)maxwell.af.mil> |
| Subject: | Follow up to posting about KLX-135A |
I have to agree with Jim. I've had horrible service from ACS. I'll pay a
premium somewhere else just to avoid them. I'd much rather give my business
to the small shops and individuals that seek our business, rather than
expect it - Abby, Stein, both Bills, Paul, Duck, B&C... it's a long list.
Neal
RV-7 N8ZG (wings)
>I must admit that I do like their catalog.
>I use it for ideas before buying from somebody else.
>Jim Sears in KY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Log Book Entries |
Scott,
I'm sorry but someone misquoted you. In the Operating Limitations for your
aircraft one of the first paragraphs states that the aircraft will be
operated in accordance with ALL the operating rules of FAR 91. FAR 91
includes the subpart on maintenance. One of those paragraphs in that
subpart states that all discrepancies will be corrected between inspections
and a log entry will be made. Another one says that all logbook entries
will be in accordance with FAR 43. The parts of 43 that cover logbook
entries is FAR 43.9 and 43.11.
I'm sory that I can't get more specific at this time but our office is in
the middle of moving and my regs book is packed away. If anyone wants more
specifics let me know and I will be able to do so next week.
Mike Robertson
Das Fed
>From: "Scott VanArtsdalen" <svanarts(at)yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Log Book Entries
>Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2004 10:49:00 -0700
>
>
>I'll reply with what my genuine FAA airworthiness inspector told me. He
>told me not to enter anything in the logbooks other than "Annual
>condition inspection performed on " whatever date. He specifically told
>me that any other maintenance items I wanted to track should be in a
>separate personal log. Fresno FSDO words, not mine.
>
>--
>Scott VanArtsdalen
>RV-4 N311SV
>4-ever!
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Bowen
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Log Book Entries
>
>
>What is a good reference for various log book entries? What should (and
>shouldn't) be annotated in each log book? Format? Examples? Etc...
>
>Thx,
>
>-
>Larry Bowen, RV-8 5.2 hrs
>Larry(at)BowenAero.com
>http://BowenAero.com
>
>
>=
>=
>=
>=
>
>
Check out Election 2004 for up-to-date election news, plus voter tools and
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Log Book Entries |
The reference to a builder's log is not in the regulations but, rather, in
the certification order, 8130.2E.
Mike Robertson
>From: "David Fenstermacher" <dfenstermacher(at)earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Log Book Entries
>Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2004 14:05:39 -0400
>
>
>
>This raises a question for me.
>What is the reference for the builder's log?
>I am keeping a "journal" and taking lots of pictures (some with me
>working).
>Is there anything else I should be doing?
>I know there are commercial computer programs, but don't feel the need to
>buy one if I can do it in MS Word.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Dave
>
>
> > >What is a good reference for various log book entries? What should
>(and
> > >shouldn't) be annotated in each log book? Format? Examples? Etc...
> > >
> > >Thx,
> > >
> > >-
> > >Larry Bowen, RV-8 5.2 hrs
> > >Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> > >http://BowenAero.com
> > >
>
>
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Randy,
I would at least install one of the old "style" ELTs for now. They aren't
that expensive and have a better chance of helping you out if something does
happen than if nothing was installed.
Mike R.
>From: "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: ,
>Subject: RV-List: ELT?
>Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2004 13:44:37 -0700
>
>
>With the short remaing life of the 121.5 mh ELT system, and with 406's
>still
>being relatively expensive, and with no ELT required in a single place
>aircraft (RV-3B), is it worth adding the weight and expense of this
>near-obsolete technology, or should I go sans ELT until the nextgen product
>becomes more mature?
>
>Randy Lervold
>RV-3B, fuselage
>www.rv-3.com
>
>
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
For those of you that like engine puzzles give me some ideas. Engine is a
Lyc IO-320 in an RV-9A.
Here's the symptoms and some findings.
During flight #4 cylinder starts showing a high EGT (about 1470) and a low
CHT (about 320). All other cylinders show around 1360 EGT and 360 CHTs.
All other engine parameters stay normal for temps and pressures. There are
two other symptoms. The fuel pressure starts to drop off but comes right
back up once the electric pump is turned on. This has no effect on the
cylinder temps though. Once the high temp was noticed mixture was enriched
and all temps on all cylinders went down but the #4 EGT slowly started
creeping back up. Push the mixture in more and temps go down across the
board again but then the #4 EGT starts creeping back up. During the
approach to land there are lots of exhaust popping. (lots of fuel in
exhaust).
After landing, compression checks on all cylinders showed 76-78 over 80. A
visual inspection of the exhaust values showed nothing wrong. A wobble
check of the #4 exhaust valve indicated everything was ok. The fuel
injector was pulled and found to be in good condition. The top taken off
the flow divider and everything was clean. both the fuel filter and the
gascolator screen were clean. The only thing found so far was the fuel line
coming from the servo to the flow divider had slipped off the heat shield
and was sitting directly on the exhaust pipe. The fire sleeve was charred
but the fuel line (teflon braided) showed no damage and was clear.
I have been working with these engines for some time but this is the first
time I have come across this one. Anyone have any ideas. I am beginning to
wonder if just re-routing the fuel line might fix everything. Maybe a
bubble got into the #4 injector line causing the #4 cylinder to go lean??
By the way, this is a Bart engine. He has been contacted and we are going
through different things there also but I wanted to get some more ideas.
Thanks,
Mike Robertson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
Bad spark plug on #4 cylinder? Plugs can go bad without fouling. They
should be pressure tested at every annual. Try running on each mag next
time. If it's a bad plug the cylinder will go cold when that mag is
selected.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Robertson
Subject: RV-List: Engine Problems
For those of you that like engine puzzles give me some ideas. Engine is
a
Lyc IO-320 in an RV-9A.
Here's the symptoms and some findings.
During flight #4 cylinder starts showing a high EGT (about 1470) and a
low
CHT (about 320). All other cylinders show around 1360 EGT and 360 CHTs.
All other engine parameters stay normal for temps and pressures. There
are
two other symptoms. The fuel pressure starts to drop off but comes
right
back up once the electric pump is turned on. This has no effect on the
cylinder temps though. Once the high temp was noticed mixture was
enriched
and all temps on all cylinders went down but the #4 EGT slowly started
creeping back up. Push the mixture in more and temps go down across the
board again but then the #4 EGT starts creeping back up. During the
approach to land there are lots of exhaust popping. (lots of fuel in
exhaust).
After landing, compression checks on all cylinders showed 76-78 over 80.
A
visual inspection of the exhaust values showed nothing wrong. A wobble
check of the #4 exhaust valve indicated everything was ok. The fuel
injector was pulled and found to be in good condition. The top taken
off
the flow divider and everything was clean. both the fuel filter and the
gascolator screen were clean. The only thing found so far was the fuel
line
coming from the servo to the flow divider had slipped off the heat
shield
and was sitting directly on the exhaust pipe. The fire sleeve was
charred
but the fuel line (teflon braided) showed no damage and was clear.
I have been working with these engines for some time but this is the
first
time I have come across this one. Anyone have any ideas. I am
beginning to
wonder if just re-routing the fuel line might fix everything. Maybe a
bubble got into the #4 injector line causing the #4 cylinder to go
lean??
By the way, this is a Bart engine. He has been contacted and we are
going
through different things there also but I wanted to get some more ideas.
Thanks,
Mike Robertson
On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how
to
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
September 26, 2004 - October 06, 2004
RV-Archive.digest.vol-pv